/ \ i ' EilriJiJfnHlfruSITOillruT^fim^ f^ m m m fU i m m m U THE LIBRARIES COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY i i p GIVEN BY m i i f^ Frederick William Halls "^ Collection rp 1 |GirLnJfrinlfnjO[anirriiiJ[^ 1 / V. \ T-RTSCFS^ FELIX SAI.M-SAT.M. Ten Years of My Life HV TUL PRINCESS FELIX SALM-SALM. ---^«£>feg3S«^ NEW YORK : R. WORTHINGTON. 750 BROADWAY 1877. /■\. 4- f 0' \ The Courier Company, Electrot>/pers. Printers and Bmders, Buffalo. N.Y. PREFACE. My poor husband published some years ago his 'Diary in Mexico.' I contributed to this work some leaves of mine, promising to publish more whenever I should find leisure. Encouraged by many friends and the kind manner in which the above-mentioned fragment was received, I shall carry out my promise now. World-stirrmg events have taken place since 1868. History has turned another leaf in her eternal book. The French period has come to a close, and the GeiTnan era has commenced. The old German Empire has risen, like the phoenix from its ashes, in richer glory than ever before, and from its iidia It throne a fresh and wholesome current is sweeping over our globe. Much antiquat°d dust has been kicked up ; time-honoured prejudices and generally admitte^^ principles are fluttering in the air ; old people look at them regre ingly and bewildered, prophesying the end of all things and howling a Miserere, whilst the young generation rejoice, full of hope, and breathe wi'h delighc t!ie spring air of rational liberty. The genius of the age looks smi.'ngly fiom i*s sunny height upon flying superstition, carry- ing tyranr.y on its back. Ti'iough it seems to be a law of nature that even the most beneficial poliiical or social changes must-be ushered in first with bloodshed and tears, it is abo natuiul that the feelings of those who saw flow the hearts' blood of their fathe';s, husbands, or sons, and who with their tears and ruined lives in reality paid and still pay alone for the national hopes bought by such sacrifice.-., are not quite in harmony wivh the feelings of the great majority. Though well aware that the late cruel war made, alas, too many suffer- ers hke myself, and that our grief is felt like a dissonance in the general concert of rejoicing, who is cruel enough to blame a poor woman because she moun-s hei li'ile flow-r-gardcn changed by that storm into a wilder ness ? Who is unjuit enough to accuse her of selfishness, or want of jvatriot'sm, or nairowness of mind, if she cannot suppress a shudder on hearing the marches of triumph or the rejoicings of the crowd ? Alas ! in my ear is still resounding the din and roar of battles, ahd in my heart are still lingering the cries of the wounded and the heartrending whispered woids of the dying, sending their last greetings and blessings to their be- reaved mothers, wives, or children. And above all, before my mental eye is still a maddening vision — the gory body of a dear, kind husband. Yes, yes ; I know he died a most glorious death for his beloved king and the independence and glory of his dear Germany, and his remains are enshrined in a princely tomb, — but alas, he is dead, dead, gone forever, — and I have only a })oor weak woman's heart. vi ' Preface. Indulgent readers, I am sure, will forgive me if now and then a melnn- choly or bitter tone vibrates through the following pages ; but I am less sure of being forgiven by another class of readers, who, on the contrary, will be indignant and accuse me of want of feeling, or of levity, because I am not ahvays melancholy. As I am afraid that amongst them might be persons whose opinion is of very great value to me, I sliall say a few words in self-defence. Those who have never experienced great losses or troubles, and know grief as it were theoretically, who are living quiet and happy under the protection of a kind and beloved husband, surrounded by a crowd of healthy children, often imagine that they could not survive the loss of one of their beloved, or at least never smile or feel happy again. That is an ' error. The Almighty, who tempers the wind to the shorn lamb, has ordered time and reason to blunt the edge of grief ; the desire or attempt to perpetuate it is unreasonable and sinful and not worthy of a sound- minded person. I consider it to be a duty towards myself and the world, in which I may have to live still many years, to try my best to conquer this morbid inclination, and if I succeed partially iu doing so it would be hard and unjust to accuse me of levity, for that I am not devoid of feeling may be proved by the fact that my hair has become grey since then, — and I have scarcely passed my thirtieth year. In writing the following pages it is not my intention to write my biography. I shall only relate what 1 have seen and observed since 1862, the year in which I was married to Prince Felix zu Salm-Salm. This time of ten years is one of the most memorable in history, including the great Ameri- can civil war, the catastrophe in Mexico, and the fall of the Napoleonic empire. Duri^lg the American war I was almost always with my husband ; I followed him also to Mexico, and was not only a mere spectator in the great and sad tragedy enacted there. During the last French war I was with the army from the commencement to the end, and afterwards I visited Rome and Spain. Everywhere my position enabled m.e to become acquainted with the leading persons, and to be an eyewitness of the most important events. It may therefore be supposed that I have something to tell. Supported by a very good memory and a carefully and regularly kept diary, I shall try my best to make my account as interesting as possi- ble, and if my book may be insignificant as a literary production, I hope it will not tire the patience of the reader. ' Agnes zu Salm-Salm. Bonn on-the-Rhine. r CONTENTS. IN THE UNITED STATES, CHAPTER I. Some Words to the Reader — The War Excitement in the United States — The falUng and the rising Military Stars — McClellan Commander-in- Chief — Organizing the Army — His First Review — Visit to Washington ■ — Visiting the Camp — General Louis Blenker — German Refugees — Prince Felix zu Salm-Salm — What happened to him a/nd to me — The old, old Story — End of the chapter, and turning a new leaf. . Page 19 CHAPTER n. Who governs the United States ? — How it is done — Trying my wings — Senator Harris — Albany — Governor Morgan, the woman hater — My first battle — Victory — Salm, Colonel of the 8th N. Y. Regiment — Arrival in Aldy — Breaking up a camp — Ride to Chantilly — The country-seat of a Royal Stuart . . . . . . .31 CHAPTER HI. Returning to Washington — Bumside's defeat at Fredericksburg — Return- ing to the camp — Our birthday — How the soldiers celebrated it — A curious birthday cake — Aquaia Creek — Our canvas palace — General Hooker commanding the Potomac army — Our factotum, old Groeben — General Sickles — His sumptuous festival — How Uncle Sam cared for his soldiers — Mr, and Mrs. Lincoln visiting the camp — The President's wife — Portrait of President Lincoln — Salm's regiment mustered out — Returning Home — Reception in Washington — In New York — A festival in Hamilton Park — Salm presented with a sword of honour — A soldier's ball — I must attempt a speech — Turning another leaf. 37 viii - Contents. CHAPTER IV Our New York life — In a Methodist's house — Salm, Colonel of the 68th Regiment N.Y. V. — In partibus — Recruiting difficulties — Salm autho- rised to raise a brigade — His and Corvin's recruiting plan favoured by Secretary of State, W. H. Seward — An audience with President Lincoln — Secretaiy of War Stanton opposing — A visit to Blenker's farm — The battle of Chancellorville — Defeat of Hooker — Superseded by General Meade — The glorious battle of Gettysburg — General Sickles severely wounded — The New York Riots — Mrs. Bennett — Mr. James Gordon Bennett — His Son — Fort Washington — The first appearance of Master Jimmy — Mrs. James Speier — The Spiritualist Excitement — Mrs. Anna Sugdon, a pretty knocking, and Mrs. Heath Adams, a writmg medium — Spiritual seances at my house — At Mrs. Bennett's — The flying music-book — At Mrs Speier's — A table knocked off" its legs — A detected tipping medium — Bad state of affairs — I go out recruiting to Washington. . . . • . Page 48 CHAPTER V. The Provost-Marshal-General U. S., General James Fry — My success — Governor Yates, of Illinois — Lovers of spirits among high-spirited gentlemen — I become a captain, commanding a company — Life in Washington- -Madame von Corvin — Sanitary arrangements in the United States — The Sanitary and Christian Commissions — How the Government honoured dead soldiers — National cemeteries — A hospi- tal city — Salm again on the war-path — My journey to Nashville, Tenn. — Returning to Washington. . , .... 65 CHAPTER VI. Madame von Corvin and I travel from Washington to Bridgeport, Ala- bama— American railroads — Pittsburg — Meeting Charles Schurz — How he was received there — Louisville, Kentucky — Nashville, Tenn. — The St. Cloud Hotel — Travelling with a military train — Why I stop the train — Arrival in Bridgeport — The camp on the Tennessee island — The hospital — Traffic with the rebels — Salt serving instead of money — Neighbours — Expecting a rebel surprise — Bridgeport — Col- onel Taylor — Rev. Gilford and family — 13angerous roads — Fort Prince Salm — Life on the island — Excursion to Chattanooga — Major- General J. Steedman — The Match-bridge at Whiteside — Lookout Mountain — Fighting Joe's rock — The rebels advancing — Salm leaving the island alone — Cut off" from Nashville by General Hood — How we passed oiir time — Visits received and paid — Generals Brannon and Granger — Rather dangerous — Pleasure trips to Stevenson — Victories — The 6Slh Regiment leaving the island — The deserted camp — Dan- gerous position — Nightly disturbances — Meeting Salm and Steedman Contents. ix in Stevenson after the victorious battles — Christmas in Alabama — We leave all for Nashville — Colonel and Madame von Corvin return to Washington, and I go with Salm to Bridgeport —He is commander of the post — His raids against the rebels — His staff — Captain John- son and his wife, my sister, arrive — Difficulties in reference to promo- tion— To remove these I am sent to Washington. . . P^ge 78 CHAPTER VII. On board the * General Lyttle ' — In Washington — Up-hill work — Senator Yates — Go with Groeben to New York — Governor Fenton — Governor Gilmore of New Plampshire — Return to Washington — Victory — Receive the General's commission for Salm — Living at Corvin's in Georgetown — Short sketch of war events — Characteristic of General Grant — The assassination of Lincoln — Attempt against Secretary Seward — Impression made by that catastrophe — The Funeral — Andrew Johnson, the new President — Mr. Field, Assistant .Secretaiy of the Treasury — Returning to the war — Felix in Dalton, Georgia — Arrival in Chattanooga — No trains — Get a locomotive — Riding on the cow- catcher — A journey from Dalton to Cleveland — A fearful night in the woods — Dangers of railway travelling — A narrow escape — I get a baby of my sister's — Starting for Atlanta, Georgia — State of the country — Our life in Atlanta — Leaving for Savannah— Fort Pulaski — An excursion to Augusta — Dangers of the Savannah rivers — Our steamer, the ' Fanny Lehr,' running on a snag — Sticking in the mud — The alligators — Assistance arriving — Continue our journey — Coming up with the ' Robert Lehr,' which strikes a snag and goes down- Returning to Savannah— End of the war — Going via Baltimore to Washington — Living in Georgetown at Corvin's — Forming new plans — Salm resolves to go to Mexico — Groeben is to go with him — I re- main in Washington — Take a bouse in that city together with the Corvins — Our life — Excursions — Colonel Moore — Leaving for Mexico — Good-bye to President Johnson — On board the ' Manhattan ' — Father Fisher — Arrival in Havaunah — Surprise — Meeting Salm — Arrival in Vera Cruz lOQ MEXICO CHAPTER Vni. Vera Cruz — Great graveyard — A Mexican diligence — Robbing the diligence — A gentlemanly sport — Paper dresses — Terra Templada — ' Get oui if you can' — Pulque — In an Indian hut— Orizava — Puebla — The plateau of Mexico — General Zerman — Baron Magnus. , 125 Contents. CHAPTER IX. Origin of the City of Mexico — The Alameda — The Paseo Nuevo— A Mexican gentleman on horseback — Promenade de la Viga — The float- ing islands — Theatres — Place d'x\rmes — The Cathedral — The Sangra- rio — Disputacion Iturbide — Aqueducts — The National Museum — The Sanctuario de Guadalupe — Its wonderful origin — The Creole Virgin — Chapultepec — Humming-birds — Mexican houses and life — Mexican ladies — The Indians — A Ranchero — Mexican market. . Page 135 CHAPTER X. Marshal Bazaine — Madame la Mar^chale — Princess Iturbide — Tacubaya — San Augustin — A projected important mission — How it ended — We go on an expedition — Meeting the enemy — Result — Arrival in Tulan- cingo- — Order to evacuate — Jimmy — Carabajal, the robber-general — March to Puebla — Meeting the Emperor Maximilian — The ' woman in white ' — I fall ill — General panic — Returning to Mexico — The family Hube — Departure of the French — The Emperor leaving for Queretaro — Salm going after him — I am left behind — General Mar- quez — General Vidaurri— Good news — The battle of San Lorenzo — Marquez a coward — Porlirio Diaz before Mexico. , . . 157 CHAPTER XI. Fearful dreams — My escaj^e from Tacubaya — Going to Mexico — Colonel Leon — My propositions to the German Colonels — Negotiations — Madame Baz — A sad mistake rewarded by a bullet — At the head- quarters of Porfirio Diaz — Mr. Hube my interpreter — Return to Mexico — Two volleys fired at me — No harm done — A thunderstorm as a peace-maker — Baron Magnus retains me in Mexico — What re- sulted from it — Confusion in Tacubaya — A kind invitation to go to ■ Tericho, or elsewhere beyond the sea — Will not go — Female general- ship against Mexican strategy — General Baz — Permission to go to Escobedo — Thirty-seven letters of recommendation — My journey to Queretaro — Mexican justice. . . . . . . .174 CHAPTER XIL Arrival before Queretaro — Visit to Escobedo's head-quarters — One who had 'known me intimately' — ^Journey to San Luis Potosi — Lieut. - Colonel Aspirez — An audience with President Juarez — M. Iglesia — The fall of Queretaro — The Emperor and my husband prisoners — Journey to Queretaro — San Teresita — My first interview with the Emperor — His prison — I arrange a meeting between the Emperor and Contents. xi General E'scobedo — What happened in the Hacienda de Hercules — General Refugio Gonzales a Marplot — The convent of the Capuchins — The Emperor forced to remain in a grave vault — Colonel Villanueva. Page I 86 *i>^ CHAPTER XIII. My pkns to save the Emperor — What Consul Bahnsen thought of them — Visit to the Emperor at midnight — A letter to Juarez — Politeness ot Escobedo — Preparing to go to San Luis — Consul Bahnsen's fear justi- fied— His sleeping partner —Another audience with Juarez — My plead- ing for delay —Mr. Iglesia on my side— Victory — Return to Queretaro — A wide-awake partner of Mr. Bahnsen — A fearful journey — How I looked — Scene on my arrival in Maximilian's prison described by another eye-witness . '194 CHAPTER XIV. My husband's plans for escape — I do not believe in them — I ofifer to go to Mexico to fetch Baron Magnus, lawyers, and money — Delays— How I managed Escobedo — A telegram makes my journey superfluous — Consul Bahnsen again in a fright — ^Judge Hall — Arrival of the For- eign Ministers in Queretaro — Impression made by it — Baron Magnus — Money no object — The Austrian and Belgian Ministers — Mr. Curtopassi —My plan to save the Emperor — Money wanted — Baron Magnus gone to St. lAiis — Colonel Villaneuva — Colonel Palacios — How I tempt him — Two bills for one hundred thousand dollars each, but no cash — Baron Lago in deadly fear for his neck — Plis cow- ardice ... 200 CHAPTER XV. f Dr. Basch arrested on leaving my house — General Escobedo wishes to see me — A grand scene — A furious General and a resolute woman — What Escobedo thought of the great Ministers — The carriage with four mules at my door — How I frighten a little captain — Negotiations^ — Getting in the carriage — How I got out of it — Villanueva --T am brought to Santa Rosas — Go from there to San Luis — Lenience of Mexican Generals against attempts to escape — Reasons for it — How I was received by Mr. Juarez and Mr. Iglesia — Respite of three days — What Baron Magnus might have done if he had been somebody else — My last pleading for the Emperor's life — Jaurez will only grant that of my husband — Madame de Miramon's audience with the Presi- dent— Death of the Emperor — Mr. Lerdo — Return to Queretaro — Go to Mexico — Again to Queretaro — Salm's prison life — A roguish doctor — Transportation of the prisoners to Mexico — To Vera Cruz — My husband in Tehuacan — How he was treated by Porfirio Diaz and General Baz — Exertions for the release of the Prince — Success On my arrival in Vera Cruz, Salm had left with Baron Magnus — My. despair — Going to New York and Washington— On board the ' Ville de Paris' — Arrival in Europe. 216 xii Contents. IN EUROPE, CHAPTER XVI. Biest — First impressions — A four-legged baby — Paris — Castle Anholt— Prince Alfred — His family — Our position — Journey to Vienna — Audience with the Emperor of Austria— Result — Salm in the hands of his old enemies — Flight — My audience with the mother of Maxi- milian— Her present — Munich — Countess Salm-Hoegstraeten — Re- turn to Westphalia — Princess Minna — Prince Alfred dangerously ill — Rheingrafenstein — von Stein — Meeting with Corvins in Rorschach — Castle Wiggen — The Rorschach Hill — The Lake of Constance — Mrs. Raggebas — Visitors — A visit to Combe Varin — Professor Edward Desor — Baron H. and wife — A Russian Baron and his daughter — Prince Hohenzollern — At the Weinburg — Off to Berlin. Page 232 CHAPTER XVII. Salm's Diai-y in Mexico published--Prince Kraflft Hohen^ohe — Baron Magnus — Audience with Princess Charles of Prussia — Countess Seyd- ewitz — At Baroness Schleinitz's — Salm Major in the Guards — Audience with Her Majesty the Queen — Countess Schulemburg — Countess Benckendorff — Fast habits — Coblentz — Society there — The Prussian army — Prussian officers — The regiment ' Queen Augusta.' . 251 CHAPTER XVIII. Our society — Countess Haake — In Berlin with the Corvins — Another audience with the Queen — The King — A queer cousin — Prince Salm- Horstmar — A princely apostle — Housekeeping lessons — Mr. General von S . — Salm's revolt — I try my hand at match-making — Excur- sions— Mr. Moriary — Princess S W and her sons — Mesal- liances— A poetical friend — Coblentz life — Publrc tea-gardens — The Oueen in Coblentz — Princess Lie^nitz — 'Uncle Herrmann' — The Grand Duchess Dowager of Mecklenburg — in Ems — Their Majesties The Queen as a godmother — Baron Gerolt — Why he resigned — Mr. Bancroft— His meanness — In Ems with his Majesty — My cousin, the Duchess of Osuna — Breakfast with their Majesties at Sayn — Military manoeuvres — Visit to Anholt — Prince and Princess of Weid — A party at her Majesty's — Grand Duchess of .Baden and Princess William — A ball at her Majesty's — I dance with the Grand Duke of Weimar — Breakfast at her Majesty's- -Dinner at Neuweid — Prince and Princess of Roumania — The Count of Flanders — Departure of the Queen — Christmas in Anholt — \ battue — Bitter reflections. . . . 26-? Coaienis. xiii CHAPTER XIX. New Year — The ' little bills ' — In a whirlpool — Onr new Colonel, Count Waldersee — In Berlin — An evening party at her JNiajesty's — The brother of Maximilian — Audience with their Royal Highnesses the Crown Prince and Crown Princess — Their great kindness — Grand Court-day — I conquer China — Baroness Schleinitz — Grand Opera Ball — The whole Court present — Carnival in Coblentz — Balls — Fancy Ball at Mr. von C 's — A Spanish Quadrille — Fancy Ball at General von Herwarth's — A fishy Quadrille — Mayence — Prince of Holstein — Bonn — Professor Dr, Busch — ist of April — Studying in the Hospitals — Salm promoted — Sad forebodings — Return of the Queen to Coblentz— Season in Ems — The Duke of Ossuna— His Majesty the Emperor of Russia — Princess Rose Salm- Salm — An unpleasant occur- rence— At Prince Solms-Braunfels — Thirteen at the table ! — Our set in Ems — With his Majesty — The Duchess of Ossuna and her train — Prince Albrecht of Prussia — Brilliant misery — Again in Bonn — Ru- mours in Ems — Supper with the King— A Review in Ems — Dinner at her Majesty's in Coblentz — A cafe-dansant — Caught in a shower — Arrival in Ems — The King and Benedetti — Sensation — Supper with his Majesty — How the King looked — I tell his Majesty that I shall go with the army — Concert at the Swiss house in Coblentz — How the King and Queen were received — War declared — Taking leave of his Majesty — Affecting scene — The King gives me his photograph — Panic in Ems — Return to Coblentz — The behaviour of the Germans — Leave-taking of the Queen — Approval of my resolution — In Bonn — I receive a certificate from Professor Dr. Busch — In the Aula — Professor Dr. Busch appointed Surgeon-General of 8th Army Corps — I am to accompany him — Arrival of Colonel Corvin — Of Mrs. von Corvin — Of Princess Minna and Florentine Salm — Preparations — . Dark forebodings — A conversation between Salm and Corvin — The regiment ' Queen Augusta' leaving — Farewell to Salm — A sad mother and sad wife Page 214 CHAPTER XX. My preparations for the field — Miss Louisa Runkel — Leave-taking in An- holt — Prince Alfred and three sons in the war — Difficulties about a horse — I try impossibilities — Make them possible — With General von Steinmetz, chief of the first army — £n route — My defeat — Hermeskeil — Treves — Disappointment — Saarlouis — Imprudent ducks — Henswei- ler — Gloious news — In a brewery — Prince Adalbert of Prussia — An Admiral on dry land — The distant thunder — Of Spichern— Saarbruck — Meeting Corvin — Entering on my duties — The starving French prisoners — Confusion — The battle-field — Arrival of the King -A raid on the Royal kitchen — Carrying off my booty — Caught by his Majesty — My confusion — In the Hospitals — The i8th of August — Fearful dreams — Vague rumours — Starting for the front — Felix killed— xiv Contents. rio entine killed — How my husband died — letter of Rev. Mr. Parmet — Letter of Salm's servant — ^ly vow — Going on a sad errand — A 'fearful night in Remilly — Ars sur-Moselle — A melancholy task — * Mother Simon ' — How I found my poor husband — Bringing home the bodies — Funeral in Anholt — Last words of love. . Page 306 CHAPTER XXI. Returning to the war — In Cologne — The Knights of St. John — Baron Edward Oppenheim — In Jouy-aux- Arches — Voluntary nurses — Re- forms— Gifts from Cologne — My store-rooms — Prince Alfred — Miss Runkel — Shells — Surrender Metz — Theft — Bad conscience — A rude doctor — A princely box on the ear. ...... 325 CHAPTER XXII, Marching orders— Death of Count Waldersee — On the march — Lost on the road — Brabant — In search of quarters — In a shepherd's house — How we passed the night — A wonderful snoratorio — Vienne le Chateau — An ecclesiastical cat — In Rheims — Ville aux Bois Jouchery — A Frenchified German — Madame la Baronne de vSachs. Attichy — A * particulier ' — Compiegne — The rooms of Empress Eugenie — Monti- dier — The 'terrible' things— Battle of Moreuil — Fog — Strange mis- take—Miss Runkel taken for a ' Protzkasten ' — ^Jimmy — My pigeon — After the battle — General von Kummer — Amiens — In Boves — Colonel Cox — The international commission — Starting for Rouen — La Feuilie — A sacked chateau— In Rouen — Dangerous looking people — Visit to General von Manteufifel — Leaving Rouen — Le Heron— Order to pre- pare for battle — The battle of Querriere — Our Verbandplatz— The room for the fatally wounded — Short of provisions — Fed by the English — My assistance —Under fire — Dangerous curiosity — Rev. Mr. Gross wounded — End of the battle — Supper on the amputation table — Returning to Amiens — A busy night— Miss Runkel's Samaritan work — My birthday — Count Luttichau and Captain Voelkel— Tele- graphing for their wives — Captain Voekel's death — Arrival f his wife — General von Blankensee— His wife— Plis death — In Albert — Captain von Marien — Bapaume — General Count von der Goeben — A distracted cook — The wounded— Captain von Butler— Dead— Hospi- tal in the convent — I discover an old acquaintance — And make the acquaintance of the black small-pox — Returning to Amiens — Arrival of ofiicers' wives — I fall ill with the small-pox— Marching orders— Four days in bed only— In Peronne— General von Memerty— My prophetic t.nlents — Three hundred wounded and nothing to eat — Again our English friends— Prince ^.Ifred's exertions— Miss Runkel's exhaustion —Jimmy catching a Tartar— The glorious battle ot St. Quentin— Shoes and stockings left in the mud — In St. Quentin — The H6tel Cambronne— Adoctorless private hospital— Miss Runkel's glory — My Ive hundred boarders — Howl managed for them — Aimistice — Going home— Acknowledgments — General von Manteuffel proposing me for Contentp,. x^ the iron cross — Thanks in the naine of tlie 1st army by letter ol General von Goeben — Letter of General von Fransecky. . Pai^e 335 CHAPTER XXIII. Going to Germany — In Anholt — My husband's debts — Different views — Returning to my deserted home — Sympathisers — Pestered to death — A last appeal to a brother — A princely answer — What I resolved to do — Baron Edward Oppenheim — Going to Berlin — A private audience with his Majesty the Emperor — What happened in it — General von Treskow — My offer accepted — Audience with my gracious Empress — Moving to the Augusta hospital — Noble nurses — Visit of Emperor and Empress — A present from Her Majesty — Lost — Called home — • Moving to Bonn — Persecutions — A forged signature — Law suit — My health failing — In Luzcrn — Going to Clarence — To Pisa — To Naples — Eruption of Mount Vesuvius — 1 want lo see it very near — Jimmy's distress — Pompeii. .;....... 362 CHAPTER XXIV. I want to enter a convent — Applying to the Empress — Letter of Count Annin — A card from Baron S to the German minister in Rome — In Rome — Count Brazier de St. Simon — His portrait — His mixtum compositum wme — His hobby-horse — I make an impression on the old diplomatist — Eftects — Seeing San Angelo — The Prison of Ben- venuto Cellini — Causing the death of the old Count — Monsignore Merode — Two audiences with the Pope — Declares that I have no talent lor a nunnery — Private .nasE by Monsignore Merode at the grave ol San Pietro — Presents iiom the Pope — A once celelirated lady and pretended princess — Rev.. Joseph Mulloly — The Chuich Ui St. Clement and its subterranean wonders — What called me home — Invitation to Rostock in Mecklenburg — In Wamemunde — Grand Duke and Grand Duchess o\ Mecklenburg- -The ' Stromlahrt ' — Festival — Curious War.are — Called home again — Bad health — In Scheveningen — An American gold uncle — Change 01 affairs — I buy a house in Bonn — Have rented it to Baron Gerolt — Journey to Spain — Madrid — Count W A river without water — The palace ot the Duke of Ossuna — Invested by the Philistines — The picture gallery — The Arm- oury— Curious armour, &c. — The Theatres — A characteristic adventure — In the Prado — Duchess de la Torre — Serrano — Queen Isabella — Victor Amadeus — The attentate — Disturbed state — Returning to Bonn — A few last words — End of the book. , , , , . 373 BOOK I. IN TPIE UNITED STATES, CHAPTER I Some Words to the Reader— The War Excitement in the United States— The falling and the rising Military Stars — McClellan Commander-in- Chief — Organizing the Army — His first Review — Visit to Washington — Visiting the Camp — General Louis Blenker — German Refugees — • Prince Felix zu Salm-Salm — What happened to him and to me — The old, old Story — End of the chapter, and turning a new leaf. I SHALL not follow my diary day for day. Such a proceeding would only produce tedious repetitions, and extend my book, to an unjustifiable length. I do not pretend to write history ; I shall give only my personal experiences, and though trying my best to judge ^^ersons and events impartially, I am doubt- ful whether I shall succeed, as very wise philosophers assert that in women subjective feeling prevails over objective reason — in a word, that their heart is always running away with their brain. As I cannot help being a woman, I beg the reader to excuse, on the ground of this deplorable fact, opinions and views perhaps differing from his own. I am not writing my biography either, and I am therefore dispensed from the necessity of describing my cradle, the emotions I experienced in admiring my first pair of shoes, and of dissecting my soul for the amusement of some curious people. I confess it affords me even a malicious pleasure to disappoint, in this respect, a number of persons who for years have taken the trouble of inventing the most romantic and wonderful stories in reference to my youth, taxing their fancy to the utmost to take revenge on me for my silence. There are, indeed, people who resent it as an offence if a person who, by chance or peculiar circumstances, has been raised on the platform of publicity, does not choose to show herself in the garb of an antique statue ; and who, as a cause for such disinclination, attribute to her some physical or moral t.' 20 Ten Years of my Life. deformities. May they do so'; their benevolent sunpositions will not induce me to dispel by plain and dry reality the roman- tic cloud in which they have wrapped my youth. It would, indeed, be cruel and ungrateful to novelists and dramatic poets who have made me the heroine of their most wonderful and fanciful works, to disenchant their public ! I therefore shall jump right into the middle of my narrative. The great American civil war had commenced, the first bat- tle of Bull Run had taken place, and the whole American world was in an incredible fever of excitement. It was in the Fall of 1 86 1, and having returned from Cuba, tvhere I had lived several years, I was with a married sister in New York. Het husband was an officer in the army, and all occurrences connected with it and the war were eagerly discussed in our lamily. Old General Scott, who once had earned cheap laurels in Mexico, and v/as thought a very great general, had proved that he was none, and the hopes set on McDowell had collapsed at Bull Run. The people had, however, already found a new idol in General McCleilan, who was placed at the head of the forces of the Union. Before having had an opportunity of doing much he was praised and worshipped as if he had won a hundred battles, and whoever would not believe that little Mac was an American Napoleon was in danger of being called a ' coj)perhead.' When he really had done much, and shown himself to be the best amongst all the dikttd?ite gi^ntxdXs oi the Northern Union, kc was called a copperhead himself. At that time I am speaking of he was, as said before, the great military star of the North, and was engaged in organis- ing an army, having discovered after Bull Run that an undi- sciplined, enthusiastic, though radical, army is nothing but an armed mob. Recruiting was briskly carried on in New York ; everywhere the goose-step was practised under the superinten- dence of officers whose faces one had seen quite recently behind counters and bars. The centre of public interest and curiosity was, however, Wasliington, and the trains between that capital and the metropolis were always crowded. McCleilan hurried his organisation as much as possible, and knowing very well his sovereign people, he resolved to offer them some military spectacle to satisfy their impatience and curiosity. A great review of newly-formed cavalry was to take llevieiu at WasJvmgtoii. 21 place near Washington, and great numbers of New York peo- ple were anxious to witness such rare show. I was as eager and enthusiastic as the rest, and arrived with a numerous com- pany of ladies and gentlemen in Washington. That city was not yet what it is now. It is called ' The city of magnificent distances,' and with very good reason. It was laid out for a million of inhabitants, but had, however, only about eighty thousand, though this number was then more than doubled by a floating population. The city, notwithstanding some splentlid public buildings, most of them still in construc- tion, like the Capitol, resembled a very big village, and Penn- sylvania Avenue, the- principal street, which is wider than the Linden in Berlin, was still in possession of pigs and cattle, which during the night slept on the sidewalks, even near Lafay- ette Square, opposite the White House, ' Father Abraham's ' residence. The tramway was not laid until much later, and along the street there still rolled a most primitive omnibus. Military enthusiasm was paramount in Washington. The ladies, of course, were not left untouched by the prevailing epidemic ; in fact, they were more excited than the men, and not being permitted to enlist themselves they did their utmost to encourage the nascent heroes. Civilians had then little chance with them. Apollo himself would have passed unno- ticed if he did not wear shoulder-straps. He who has not witnessed this military fever will scarcely believe it. All laws of society seemed suspended, and what in peaceable times would have been considered very improper and shocking was then the order of the day. Both sexes seemed to have changed places. The review had an immense success, though it was, in fact, A pitiful affair — as I am enabled to judge now after having seen Prussian Uhlans and Hussars. The Union cavalry that time were w^orse than useless. The poor fellows did not know whether their horses or their swords were mure in their way, and I saw them fall from their saddles even at a walking pace. Of all these deficiencies we were not aware. I was quite bewildered by the perfectly new spectacle, for I was as favour- ably disposed towards the uniform as other ladies. To visit the camps around Washington was then the fashion, and one day after the review our party set out for such an ex- cursion. The camo of the Gennan Division was at that 22 Ten Years of my Life, period the principal point of attraction. This division was commanded by General Louis ^l^lenker, wlio was then a great favourite with all the authorities and the people. The ' Dutch ' did not at that time take the position in America which they now occupy. They were looked upon with a half-shrug of the shoulders, and a not very flattering half-smile. True Yankees despised them, and the military commanders were not much inclined to allow them prominent places. When McDowell was leading his armed mob towards Bull Run he placed the German Division in the rear, far from the field of his supposed glnry. When the panic commenced, which ' Bull Run Rus- sell' has described too graphically and truly for 'the American taste, the stolid Germans, and especially Blenker, could not d'scover any sensible reason for runnmg away. He let the panic-stricken Americans pass and stood his ground, waiting for an attack. This did not take place, for though the much- dreaded * Black Horse ' of the Confederates appeared in view, they did not like the attitude of the ' Dutch ' and retired, leaving behind some forsaken Union artillery, which was quietly taken back by Colonel von Steinwehr of Blenker's divi- sion. Washington was saved, saved by Blenker and these con- founded Dutch ! The Americans exaggerate everything, and so it was in tliis case. The danger had been too evident, and it served them as a measure for Blenker's merit. The General himself did not overrate it, but was sensible enough to profit by this tem- porary tide of popular favour. President Lincoln, who under- stood nothing of military matters, but much of the danger which he escaped, felt extremely thankful towards the General and the Germans, whom he already had good reason to like well, as they had done a great deal to raise him to the place which he occupied. McClellan, who liked the military chic of Blenker and the discipline in his division, was very favourably disposed towards him, and a frequent visitor in his hospitable quarters, which made American generals jealous. The German division, consisting of about twelve thousand men, had been renioved from the environs of Rodgers' Mills to the Virginian side of the Potomac, and was encamped be- tween that river and a place called Hunter's Chapel. It was a fine day when our party drove over the Potomac Bridge, which at that time was for miles the only communica- Visit to BlenJcer, 23 tion between Virginia and the District of Washington. It is exactly an English mile long, built of wood, and rather narrow. From the bridge one looks, towards the right, on Georgetown, a suburb of the capital, and on Arlington Heights, on the Virginian side, a hill on the top of which is picturesquely situated the stately- looking former residence of General Lee, the Commander-in-Chief of the Confederates. To the left are, projecting into the lake-like Potomac, the Arsenal and Navy- yard, and on the Virginian side, nearly out of view, is the town of Alexandria. To the left, not far from the bridge, we noticed a striking monument of old General Scott's military imbecility, one of the three blockhouses which he had built on the Virginian shore of the rivers, and which he thought sufficient for the defence of Washington ! The blockhouse, not larger than a peasant's house, was roughly constructed of logs, and alto- gether a most miserable and ridiculous concern, which might have served as an abode for a company sent out against the Indians in the Western wilderness. McClellan had already commenced the construction of numerous forts around the city, and that next the bridge which we had to pass was called, I think. Fort Albany. Not far from it, to the right and left of the turnpike-road leading to Fairfax and Centreville, extended the camp of the German division. It was laid out in the German fashion, the tents standing in rows, each regiment separated from the other. The lanes between them were ornamented with recently plant- ed fir or cedar trees, and the whole made a very friendly and even grand impression, especially to us, who had never seen a similar thing before. The General received us in the most cordial and polite manner, surrounded by his splendid staff. He was a man about whom I heard, both in Europe and America, the most unjust and undeserved judgments, and I am anxious to profit by this opportunity to pay a debt of grati- tude to this most excellent man, though his noble and kind heart was broken long ago, and my endeavours will avail him nothing. Louis Blenker was, I think, from Worms ; I know, at least, that he was domiciled there before the breaking out of the German revolution in 1848. After having served in the Bava- 24 Ten Years of my Life. rian army and in Greece, he became a wine merchant. He took part in the German reviDlutfon, and with a corps of his own he made an attempt against the fortress of Landau, in which he was wounded. When, in 1849, the Bavarian Palati- nate made common cause with revolutionized Baden, he com- manded, as colonel, a corps, and retired like Sigel and the rest of the popular army to Switzerland, whence he emigrated to America. He bought there a farm near Rockville, in the State of New York, and when the American war broke out he made up a regiment (the 8th of New York) and commanded it as colonel. When I became acquainted with the General he must have been near his fiftieth year. He was a fine man, about five feet ten inches high, broad in the shoulders, and with an elegant figure and bearing. His weather beaten face must have been handsome once, and was still agreeable. Though a democrat, he had decidedly aristocratic inclina- tions, and a foible for noble names. In his staff were many noblemen of well known families, and it was noticed that he treated them with more reserve than others, never using offen- sive language to them. His officers, however, overlooked his unpleasant peculiarities for his sterling good qualities ; he was very generous and liberal, and a reliable, self-sacrificmg, disin- terested friend. His military experience was not great ; he knew very little, if anything, of higher tactics or strategy ; but he was extremely brave, and nobody understood better than he how to represent a military chief — surrounding himself with all the military pomp of a high commanding general as he had seen it in Europe, and resembling half a Prussian commanding general, half a Turkish pasha. In this he differed much from the American generals, whose free and easy manner and indifference in regard to outward dignity formed a striking contrast to Blenker, whose deport- ment, however, pleased the Americans, as something new. It is astonishing how many Garman noblemen found it necessary to go out of the way of European difficulties, and seek a refuge in the United States. The Prussian and Austrian army furnished a considerable conUngent of shipwrecked ofii- cers, who mostly had to run away before their creditors, or who escaped the consequences of some duel, breach of disci- Emigrants. 25 pline, if not of some less pardonable sins. The salt water flowing between Europe and America was, however, supposed to wash off all European impurities. Nobody cared how one had sinned in the old country as long as he behaved in a man- ner which was thought proper in America. New York and other large cities were teeming with characters of that kind, and their position before the war had been a very precarious one. Their military knowledge was not of the slight- est use to them in America ; and the social prejudices, preten- sions, and views which they brought with them were the principal impediments to their success. Many perished mis- erably because they could not renounce them ; others only commenced to get on when the direst necessity had compelled them to work. Those acted most wisely who at once resolved to earn their living, in whatever honest manner, not consider- ing whether their occupation was in accordance with the posi- tion they had held in Europe. ''>\'ork does not dislionour in America, but a life of idleness does. The revolutions of 1848 and 1849 brought numbers of refu- gees from Oermany to America, and they were found not only in the cities of the East, but almost everywhere in the United States ; and it cannot be denied that this emigration had a great and, I think, salutary influence on the German element in America, for amongst these refugees were many distiuguished men, though also a great number of blackguards, who are always to be found in the wake of revolutions. New York especially was crowded with this latter class of people. The outbreak of the war was a godsend to most of the ship- wrecked Germans, especially to tiiose from Prussia, as all of them had been soldiers, and even the most iuiperfect know- ledge of military things was then of the highest value to the Americans, who understood notr.ing at all of them. ' In the land of the blind the one-eyed is king.' Prussian corporals became high offlcers, and those who understood how to strike the iron whilst it was red-hot could rise to the highest military honours. - The military chiefs of the German revolution, whose impor- tance and military talents were greatly exaggerated and mostly overrated by their countrymen, rose at once to high places, as the American Government acknowledged the military rank they had held in the revolution, as had been done also in 2G Ten Years of my Life. England at the breaking out of the Crimean war. General Sigel had a command in th^ West, and Blenker commanded the German division in the East. I shall have later an opportunity of speaking of the persons belonging to Blenker's staff and corps, and return from this digression to the tent of the General. We had not been long there when we heard the sentinels present arms, and the curtain at the entrance of the tent was thrown back. An officer entered, returning from an inspection of the outposts, reporting to the General, who then presented him to the ladies as the chief of his staff. — Co/onei Prince Salm. The Prince was then a man of thirty years. He was of middle height, had an elegant figure, dark hair, light mous- tache, and a very agreeable handsome face, the kind and modest expression of which was highly prepossessing. He had very fine dark eyes, which, however, seemed not to be very good, as he had to use a glass, which he perpetually wore in his right eye, managing it with all the skill of a Prussian officer of the guard. Though the movements of the Prince were elegant and pleasant, he could not get rid of a certain bashfulness or embarrassment, which, however, did not make him appear awkward, but which prejudiced the ladies in his favour far more than boldness and assurance in his demeanour would have done. In speaking, even to gentlemen, the Prince had always a smiling, pleasant expression, and one could see at once that he was an extremely modest, kind-hearted man. I felt particularly attracted by the face of the Prince, and it was evident that my face had the same effect on him. He addressed me in his polite, and smiling manner, but, alas, he did not speak one word of English, and as I did not under- stand either German or French, and only very imperfectly Spanish, of which he had some superficial knowledge, our conversation would have been very unsatisfactory without the assistance of the more universal language of the eyes, which both of us understood much better. Prince Felix zu Salm-Salm was a younger son of the reign- ing Prince zu Salm-Salm, whose now mediatized principality is situated in Westphalia, belonging to Prussia. The capital of this principality is Bocholt, but the family are now residing in the town of Anholt, where they have a very fine old castle. The Family of Prince Sahn-tSalm. 27 The Salms belong to one of the oldest dynastic families of Germany. Of its many branches that of Salm-Salm is the principal line. The father of the Prince was a very kind and excellent man, whose memory is still blessed by his former subjects. He was also a very indulgent father, and as Felix was rather his favour- ite son he was always very generous to him, and perhaps too lenient. Being rich, he supplied him always with ample means, and the consequence was that the young Prince became rathe: extravagant in his habits, never learning the value of money. Still very young, Prince Felix was made an officer, and served in the cavalry. In the Holstein war he distinguished himself by his bravery, especially in the battle of Aarhuis, where he was left with seven wounds on the battle-field, and made in that state a prisoner by the Danes. The King of Prujsia re- warded his bravery by sending him a sword of honour, which distinction he rated higher than any other he received after- wards. The family of Salm-Salm are Catholics, and though they have become subjects oi the Crown of Prussia, they, like other Catholic princely families or those parts, observe the practice of sending their members not only to the Prussian but also the Austrian army. Though his gracious Majesty, the prc^^ent Emperor of Ger- many, kindly tried to dissuade Prince Felix Irom taking such a step, other influences unfortunately prevailed ; he resigned his place in the Prussian army, and entered that of Austria. The old Prince zu Salm-Salm died, and his eldest son Alfred, the present reigning prince, became his successor. Prince Felix was handsomely provided for, but being very young and improvident, he lived in Vienna in an extravagant manner, which very soon exhausted his means, and delivered him over to the tender mercy of sharpers and money lenders, who always are very eager to oblige young reckless and thought- less noblemen belonging to families reputed as rich. Not used to penury, the Prince, accustomed to satisiy all his wishes, signed every paper laid before him, even without reading it, if he only got some money ; and he told me that he not rarely accepted bills to a large amount which were presented and paid, though he had never received a penny for them. 28 Ten Years of my Life. The family of the Prince was of course not willing to pay such recklessly contracted jjebts. The position of the young spendthrift in Vienna became at last too hot ; he went first to Paris, and at last to America, where he arrived in 1861, after the outbreak of the war, provided with letters of recommenda- tion from the Crown Prince of Prussia to the Prussian Minister at Washington, Baron von Gerolt zur Leyen. Baron von Gerolt had been in Washington, I believe, since 1846. He was well acquainted with all leading American men, who all respected him highly, both as a diplomatist and gentle- man. No minister of any Power had at that time more influ- ence than tlie Baron, who was the intubate friend of Mr. W. H. Seward, the American Secretary of State. Baron Gerolt is a very kind-hearted man, and many Germans, not only Prussians, whose ministers or charges d'affaires were too indifferent to trouble themselves about poor people, obtained advice and help from Baron Gerolt, who even assisted political refugees, though he was very far from approving their political views. The Baron, following his instructions, and still more the prompting ot his kind heart, did all he could for the Prince, and in consequence of this he found everywhere a very kind reception. Though rep'iblicans, the American people were no enemies to princes ; and knowing them only from fairy tales and novels, they entertained about tliem the most wonderful ideas. A live prince was an object of great interest to both gentlemen and ladies, and though pretending not to care for titles, American ladies make always a great fuss about a prince, a count, or a lord. The modest Prince was quite terrified when he was oft'ercd the command of a brigade of cavalry, which he, however, de- clined, because he did not understand the language, which was indeed a great drawback. He expressed a wish to serve with his countrymen, and General Blenker was glad to receive him as the chief of his staff. Maybe that the old German Freis- chiirltr felt flattered to have a German prince under his com- mand. I need not tell a love story. Everybodv has experienced similar emotions, and my affair did not differ from the usual course. When I left General Blenker's camp I left behind an enamoured Prince, whose feelings were far from being indif- ferent to me. We saw each other again ; the sweet malady increased, and the Prince proposed. / DisDiissal of Blenkefs Staff. > 2-3 * That you are a prince shall be no inipediment to your suc- cess with us/ said President Lincoln, with a smile to Salm, when he expressed his fear that this hereditary imperfection might be prejudicial to his progress in a republic ; with me it certainly proved no impediment. An ample fortune to gild the noble escutcheon would have been none either ; nor was it his poverty, for I did not love the Prince, I loved the lovable man. Some poets say that love is a madness, and as I believe 'n poets I suppose they are not far wrong, for in this state things are done at which common sense smiles, if it does not frown : sensible people, therefore, will not blame the Prince for pro- posing a private marriage, and that I did not resist too hard his entreaties. We were married on August 30, 1862, in St. Patrick's Church, F Street, Washington, by Father Walter, according to the rites of the Catholic Church, for both of us were Catholics. Witness to this holy ceremony was our intimate friend Colo- nel von Corvin, whose name is well known in Germany, Eng- land, and America. He had been one of the military leaders in the German revolution of 1848 and '49, and having bom- barded the town of Ludwigshafen and defended the fortress of Rastatt against the Prussians, assisting the Grand Duke of Ba- den, thus covering the retreat of the revolutionary army into Switzerland, he was condemned to be shot, but saved by a concurrence of favourable circumstances. He was, however, confined for six years in a solitary cell of a penitentiary, and, when he was still persecuted after his liberation in 1855, he retired to England, where he lived as a refugee until 1861, when he went to America as a special correspondent of the Augsburg Allo^emeine Zeitimg and the London limes. When General Blenker learnt the arrival of his much-tried old com- rade from Baden, he paid him at once a visit at Willard's Hotel in Washington, accompanied by his whole staff. On this occasion the Prince became acquainted with Corvin, who was then forty-nine years old. As the autobiography of the Colonel has been published, both in the German and English languages, I need not say more about him now. Salm felt great confidence in the Colonel, and liked him very much. Both became much attached to each other, and remained true friends all these years. 30 , Ten Years qj my Lije. Summer and autumn passed among events of some im- portance, and Salm was still in Washington. Several officers of Blenker's staff had been dismissed already ; and one day we were told by knowing friends that the dismissal of the Prince ' had been resolved on b/ Stanton, and that he might expect official notice every moment. Under these circumstances prompt action was required. The only step that could save him was to procure at once the command of a regiment in the field from sopie governor before ^ this official notice was given, and for this purpose we stp'"'-^'^ direcily for New York and Albany, :J1 CHAPTER II. Who cjoverns the United States ? — How it is done — Trying my wings — Senator Harris — Albany — Governor Morgan, the woman hater — My first battle— Victory— Salm, Colonel of the 8th N. Y. Regiment- Arrival in Aldy — Breaking up a camp — Ride to Chantilly— The country-seat of a Royal Stuart, During the absence of my husband in the field I had remained, in Washington, to which place my sister had removed, whose husband was employed there. Salm and I kept up a most lively correspondence, of course in English, of which he had acquired some knowledge. In fact we wrote to each other every day, but, owing to the irregularity of the mails, and the frequent interruptions of communication, we remained some- times very long without any news from each other. I received once sixteen of his letters at the same time. It is said that ladies have a very great influence in the United States, and I think it is so. I suppose, however, that it is more or less the case everywhere, for everywhere men are at the head of affairs, and everywhere the strong sex are weak. I might say a good deal about this influence, and the manner, means, and ways in which it is gained, maintained, and used ; but for what purpose should I do so ? The ladies are in the secret, and if the men do not know it, they may be satisfied with the frequently quoted saying that ' ignorance is bliss.' A reason why the influence of ladies in America is even greater than in other countries may perhaps be that they are as a rule very pretty and clever, and that they understand better how to control their hearts than is said to be the case in other parts of the world. To keep the heart cool is, I suppose, the key to the American ladies' secret.. Ten Years of my Life. These have, however, an advantage over their sisters of other nations which is of the greatest weight ; for, to outbalance the disadvantage that American gentlemen are not quite so foolish as those of the French and other European people are reputed to be, they are not only extremely generous, but also very dis- creet in reference to ladies, and even if tricked and deceived by them, perhaps in the most cruel manner, they do not re- venge themselves by expo&ing their perhaps imprudent fair enemies. An American gentleman — of course 1 speak only of gentlemen — would never betray the secrets of a lady, and one that should sin against this sacred law would not only be mor- ally lynched by the ladies, but lose caste with the gentlemen. I have frequently had an opportunity of noticing and wondering at the audacity with which American ladies put this gentlemanly virtue to the test, and of admiring the stoical composure of men v^ho have not even smiled or showed their astonishment when ladies in their presence ventured protesta- tions and assertions the falsehood of which none knew better than thev did. I soon became aware that we could never progress or suc- ceed much in America without the help of influential friends, and whilst my husband did his duty in the field I tried to win the good opinion and kind interest of men who might be sup- posed to be able to assist him. For this purpose nowhere was offered a better opportunity than in Washington, where Con- gress was in session and all the ministers resided. Congress, and especially the Senate, was the spring of grace, and whoever had friends in that august body was sure of success. In con- sequence of this many people who wanted some favour from the Government crowded into Washington, and amongst them the fair sex was strongly represented. In fact, there were lady-politicians and lad3'-lobbyists, who made it a business to exert the influence which they gained by their coquetry over influential men, for the benefit not only of their husbands or friends, but even for strangers and for ready cash ! Of course these ladies were neither old, nor ugly, nor very prudish, and not much respected ; but as society at that time had more an eye to gain than to virtue, these ladies in W^ashington were not aware of the contempt in which they were held in other parts of the Republic, Washington was then reputed as a most wicked and dissipated place, and ladies that could not Governor Morgan.' 33 afford to pa> it a visit shuddered at its wickedness, whilst it was the highest desire of all the rest, especially if good-looking, to pass a season in this abominable place. Amongst the friends I made in Washington was the Senator of the State of New York, Mr. Harris, who had his wife and daughters with him for the season. He was a most excellent man, and a great friend of the Germans, whom he assisted frequently. < Senator Harris was a tall, rather heavy man of about fifty- five, with a serious but very kind face, the expression of which became still milder from the manner in which his rather long hair was arranged, somewhat a la Franklin. Like many of the American prominent men, he had risen from a humble position. Lincoln when young had earned his living by working with his hands ; President Johnson had been a tailor ; Senator Wilson, of Massachussets, the present Vice-President, was once a shoe- maker ; and Senator Harris had been a printer's devil. When I heard that Salm's dismissal was already resolved on by Stanton, we both agreed that very prompt action was re- quired. After having consulted with some of our friends, we resolved to go at once to Albany, the seat of the government of the State of New York, where we hoped that Senator Harris, who was then there, would procure me an audience with Governor Morgan ; for as Salm could not speak English enough to do so for himself, I was to induce him to give my husband the command of some vacant regiment. Arrived in Albany, I went alone to see Mr. Harris, for we thought it best that the presence of my husband in that city should not be known, and he therefore remained in the hotel. When I told dear old Mr. Harris for what purpose I came and what I wanted of him, he shook his head, and said he was afraid he could serve me but little, for Governor Morgan was a man who did not admit any influence, and on whom even the entreaties of a lady would not make any impression. That was discouraging indeed, but I was full of hope because I was so eager, and I requested Mr. Harris to accompany me at least, and to present me to his Excellency, to which he agreed most readily. Dear me ! how my heart was beating on the way. I had to win my spurs, and against a man who had the reputation of being a woman-hater. I wonder how he could ever have' been 34? Ten Years of ray Life. elected governor with such a reputation. Harris had even ex- pressed a doubt whether the Governor would receive me at all, and I waited with great anxiety for the return of the aide-de- camp who announced tis to the dreaded man. The titles of Senator and Princess exerted, however, their influence, and we were admitted. A Senator of the United States, I will mention here, ranks before any governor or minister, and is equal to the President, therefore a very high personage. Governor Morgan was a tall, square-built man, of about forty- five, with greyish hair and a handsome but severe face. On looking at him my heart fell into my shoes, for I saw little hope of success in that calm, stern eye. With a faltering voice I commenced pleading for my husband, I spoke of his ardent desire to serve the cause of the Republic, and described his despair at his being kept inactive when his comrades won honour in the field ; I praised his militar}? qualities, and dwelt on the proofs Vv hich he had given of them. 1 became warmer and warmer, I spoke for about a quarter of an hour, and he never helped me with a w^ord. At last the Governor spoke. He said he did not know whether any regiments were vacant, and called a colonel, his secretary, to inquire. There were several free, mostly American regiments. As my husband did not speak English well enough yet, I expressed his desire to be placed, if possible, at the head of one of the German regiments. Yes, there was one free — the 8th New York. Seeing that 1 had won the battle, joy made me very lively and bold, and when Governor Morgan seemed still to waver, I said that I v^^ould not go av/ay without his fa.vourable decision % and when he relaxed into a smile at my eagerness, which seemed to please and amuse him, and ordered the colonel ta appoint my husband, I pleadingly insisted on my having his commission made out and signed at once, that I might be able to carry it to him immediately. That was an important point; for if, meanwhile, the dismissal of the Prince had been made officially known, he might not have got the place after all. I gained my point ; the Governor ordered the commission to be made out at once, and he signed ito 1 thanked him with the warmest words, on which he replied that the best manner in which 1 could show my gratitude would be to remain always as true and faithful to my husband as I was then. When I left victory. o5 the government building I felt more happy than I have ever been in, my life. Senator Harris congratulated me, but shook his head wonder- ingly, for he never could have believed in such a success of a lady with Governor Morgan. When I entered the room in the hotel where Salm was waiting in great anxiety for my return, I assumed an indifferent look, and with a sad face he said I had not been successful. I could- not stand it any longer, and taking out my precious document, I said, * Here, dear, is your commission as colonel of the 8th Regiment.' He would, at first, not believe it ; but on unfolding the paper the nightmare oppressing his heart was taken away, and we both shed tears of joy. We at once left Albany, for Salm had to make preparations to join his regiment, which was still in West Virginia. At the end of October Salm started for West Virginia, to take the command of his regiment, which, in the commence- ment of November 1862, stood in the most advanced position in Aldy, a place about six miles from General Stahl's head- quarters ; and a short time afterwards it was arranged that I should pay him a visit under the escort of Colonel Corvin. On a night soon after my arrival at Aldy, we received news that the enemy were advancing, and towards morning the order to retire to Chantilly, a place about ten or twelve miles from Aldv. The soldiers regretted having to leave, for they had es- tablished themselves rather comfortably. Most of them had improved their tents by means of boards and doors, using the canvas as a roof. Many of these huts had even a window and stoves. The breaking up of the camp was a new and stirring scene, and I was much amused notwithstanding a fine rain, which did not make the November morning more pleasant. Our tent was of course packed also, and whilst the preparations were going on I was sitting on a chair on its wooden flooring, warmed by a roaring fire close by. The soldiers not willing to leave to the rebels all their elaborate commodities, burnt every piece of board or furniture they had. It was arranged that I and Colonel Corvin should ride in advance of the brigade to Chantilly. The drizzling rain had become a most abundant one, and our sharp ride was no pleasure party especially for the colonel, to whom I had con- 36 Ten Years of my Life. tided a large and fine red ostrich plume for my hat, which I did not want to have spoiled, ^nd which he, half laughing and half grumbling, sheltered under his waterproof. We arrived in good time at Chantilly, and were surprised at finding here quite a princely establishment, with a mansion, which would be called in France or Germany a chateau, and with a magnificent stable buildings, justifying somewhat the name of Chantilly, borrowed from the far-famed seat of the Princess of Conde near Paris, and renowned for its palace-like stables. The splendid estate belonged to the famous rebel cavalry-general Stuart, who derived his origin from the Royal StuartSp I do not know with what right. CHAPTER III. Returning to Washington — Bumside's defeat at Fredericksburg — Return- ing to the camp — Our birthday — How the soldiers celebrated it — A curious birthday cake — Aquaia Creek — Our canvas palace — General Hooker commanding the Potomac army — Our factotum, old Groeben — General Sickles — His sumptuous festival- -How Uncle Sam cared for his soldiers — Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln visiting the camp — The President's wife — Portrait of President Lincoln — Salm's regiment mustered out —Returning Home — Reception in Washington — In New York — A festival in Hamilton Park — Salm presented with a sword of honour — A soldier's ball — I must attempt a speech — Turning another leaf. When the Confederates advanced, some fighting took place near Chantilly, and our troops received orders to fall back towards the Rappahanoc River. I accompanied my husband for a while, after which he thought it better that I should go to Washington, until the troops should have arrived at some jjlace where they would remain perhaps for the winter. I went away in company of Colonel von Amsberg's wife, and .stayed a few weeks in the National Hotel in Washington. These short separations from my dear Felix were not with- out charm, for I could quietly reflect on and enjoy my happi- ness. I was then happy, as I have never been again in my life. My husband was in the position he desired, and perfectly contented, and we loved each other very much. Wiien the Potomac army arrived at the Rappahanoc, there were no means ready to cross that river, and General Burnside had to wait eight precious days, which were not lost by the Confederates. Corvin wrote to Europe, that if Burnside crossed the Rappahanoc we should experience a second edition of the Berezine battle, no miracle preventing such a disaster. He was right. Burnside crossed that river ; the bloody battle 33 Ten Years of ony Life. of Fredericksburg was fougiit^in December, 1862; and had Burnside not been wise enough to profit by an unusually stormy night, and to recross the river, the whole army would have been lost, as it was standing on a plain surrounded with hills which were occupied by the Confederates. Salni was not in that battle. The 8th New York Regiment, and Stahl's whole division, halted at a place near the Potomac, and Salm sent word for me to come. I went down the river on a gunboat, and drove from the landing to the camp in an ambulance. Salm's regi- ment was encamped m a pine grove, on the slope of a hill not far from a village where Stahl had established his head-quarters. It was a beautiful spot, and the weather was extremely mild and fine on December 25, Salm's and my birthday. The sun was shining brightly, and the birds were singing in the grove. In the commencement of the war, each regiment had its band ; but this was found superfluous, and afterwards only each brigade or division had one. Stahl sent one of these bands to serenade us in the morning, and the soldiers of the regiment had prepared a surprise for us. They had laid out a little garden with much taste, in the old Italian style. The beds, into which it was divided, were surrounded with stones, of which also figures were formed. Little shrubs and trees were planted, and on one bed was standing what looked like an enormous birthday cake. It was a soldier's joke, for a real cake being out of the question, tliey had made one of mud, and ornamented it as is done by the confectioners in Germany, with green leaves, coloured sand, and stones representing fruit. We were then very badly off for food in the camp, for the enemy had succeeded in capturing several provision trains. For many days we had, indeed, nothing but salt pork — and not much of it — and hard tack. The soldiers soaked the latter in vv^ater, and fried it with the salt pork ; they prepared a dish which was at least eatable. The officers had nothing else, for the roads in Virginia were at that time bad beyond all descrip- tion, and provision vendors were not permitted to come to the camp at that time, for fear of being intercepted by the enemy, and the regiment sutlers were long ago exhaused. When the officers came to congratulate us, we wished, of course, to offer them some refreshment ; and with the utmost difficulty Salm procured four bottles of very vile whiskey, for Tent Furniture, 39 which he had to pay eight dollars a bottle. Sugar and some lemons were procured also, and we could treat our guests with a punch which found immense favour with them, though it was a most abominable, abundantly watered stuff. We were, however, as merry and happy as could be. After a time, in January, 1863, we received orders to march to Aquaia Creek, where a good number of troops were assem- bled. The march there was very difficult and disagreeable, for the roads were, as mentioned before, beyond description. The soldiers sunk up to their knees in the mud, and the waggons and'guns were often not to be moved by a whole herd of horses or mules. This state of the roads made war nearly impossible for both parties, and we expected that we should remain a good while, perhaps the whole winter, at Aquaia Creek, and arranged oui- selves accordingly. Salm procured a large hospital tent, which was decorated very tastefully and even gorgeously ; for amongst •the soldiers of his regiment were workmen of all trades ; uphol- sterers, carpenters, &c. The tent was made less transparent by doubling and decorating it with white and red woollen damask, arranged in festoons, between which were fastened flags. The board floor was covered with a carpet, and our. salon was provided with a splendid sofa, which the soldiers had very skilfully made. Though the cushions were only straw, they were well made, and covered with damask. The admi- ration of everybody was, however, a large mirror which Salm, with great trouble, had procured from a neighbouring village, imagining that no lady could be happy without a looking-glass. I had, however, little need of it, as my toilet in the field was as simple as possible. I had a black and a grey riding dress — I must have a change, as we not rarely got drenched in our excursions on horseback — and two uniform-like costumes, which I adopted for the whole war-time in the field, consisting of a petticoat falling to my ankles, and a tight-fitting jacket, both of cloth. Our bedroom looked also splendid ; for the soldiers had made of boards a large bedstejid, and provided it with a straw mattress, over which was spread a buffalo robe, and another, together with blankets, served as a coverlet. Over our iieads arched a canopy, decorated with white and red damask, and the whole looked quite grand. 40 Ten Years of my Life. We possessed, also, a tin SQf vice for six persons, not to for- get half a dozen of knives and forks, so that we were enabled to entertain a guest or two. Behind our canvas palace was a smaller tent, which served as a kitchen and a dormitory for my negro servant girl, whom I had brought with me from Washington, and a shed was used as a stable for our horses. Starvation was at an end now, for victuals of all kinds were abundant. We had our own caterer, who provided us with all the delicacies of the season, and our wine cellar, which was dug in the ground, contained bottles of the most different shapes and contents. When it became certain that we were to stay all the winter where we were, the camp assumed soon the aspect of an im- provised town. General Hooker, who commanded the corps, and of whom I shall speak directly, permitted the families of the officers and soldiers to visit and stay with them, and the whole camp was teeming with women and children. In fact there was scarcely one officer who had not his wife, mother; sister, or cousin with him, and beside the tent sprang up like mushrooms one shanty or blockhouse after the other. The country around was fine, the weather mostly mild and pleasant, and everybody only thinking how to amuse himself and others. I felt as happy as could be, and remember still with delight that time. Whilst we were there we were joined by a relative of my husband, Mr. v. d. Groeben, a former captain of the Holy Father's army, for whom Salm procured a captain's commis- sion. Old Groeben, as we called him, though he was not old, became much attached to us, and contributed immensely to our comfort. He installed himself as our major-domo, man- aged all our affairs, and arranged all pleasure parties and the like. He was a somewhat pedantic, queer man, who grumbled always and at everything, though he was by no means satur- nine or of bad temper, but, on the contrary, rather full of a quiet good humour. He was everywhere with us, though it cost him many sighs and groans to follow us across the country, for he was a very indifferent horseman, and, warned by nume- rous tumbles, he preferred whenever he could a seat in a boat or ambulance to one in the saddle. As w^ had to do nothing but amuse ourselves, and kill the time agreeably, scarcely a day passed without some excursion, A Camp Supper. 41 pleasure party, dinner, or ball ; and for the entertainment of the soldiers care was taken likewise. Some of these festivals were indeed sumptuous, and I espe- cially remember one given by General Sickles, in a hall impro- vised from canvas by uniting a dozen or more large hospital tents in a convenient manner. This immense tent was decorated inside and outside with flags, garlands, flowers, and Chinese lamps in great profusion, and offered a fairy-like aspect. The supper laid under the tent for about two hundred persons, ladies and gentlemen, could not have been better in Paris, for the famous Delmonico from New York had come himself to superintend the repast, and brought with him his kitchen aides and batteries, and immense quantities of the choicest provisions and delicacies, together with plate and silver, and whatever was required to make one forget that it was a camp supper. The wines and liquors were in correspondence with the rest, and no less, I suppose, the bill to be paid. It is true it was an unheard-of luxury displayed on this occasion, and had such a festival taken place in a German camp it would have created throughout the country a bad feel- ing, and the press would have commented on it in no pleasing manner. It was. however, far different in America. Soldiers and people likedand approved such display ; they would have blamed parsimonious generals, whilst they did not control too closely those who freely spent what they perhaps made in consequence of their position. Moreover, many of them were very rich. The soldiers did not grudge the generals their luxurious habits either ; they found an amusement in such festivals, and were sensible enough to understand that they could not all partake in them. It would have been different if the Government had been stingy towards the army, but that was by no means the case. ' Uncle Sam ' opened his strong boxes, and the army was paid and supplied with pro- visions in a manner quite unheard of in Europe. If accidents inseparable from such a war prevented the arrival of |Drovis- ions for a time, there was always plenty, and not only the- main necessities of life, but things were furnished which never appear in the stores of a German army, and which would be there considered as preposterous. Though the immense dis- tances and the bad state of the roads made this branch of the 42 Ten Years of ony Life. service extremely difficult, the practical sense of the Americans surmounted all difficulties, and soon after the commencement of war things in the commissariat of the army went like clock- work. The rich American people did not care if some hun- dreds of millions were perhaps squandered ; trade in the North States was as brisk as ever; nay, on the contrary, war, instead of hindering, seemed to increase it. Money was circulating more freel}^ than ever, and instead of suffering, the country, and especially the cities, seemed to improve by the war. The soldiers lived well, for they were paid well. Everything was furnished to them liberally by the Government ; nothing was deducted from their pay, which amounted even for private soldiers to fourteen dollars a month. Everything was done for the soldiers of the nation by the National Government, the utmost care taken to procure for them all possible commo- dities, and private industry speculating in that direction was never hindered except by the requirements of discipline. The connection between the army and home was carefully consi dered, and the postal arrangements were wonderfully regular, notwithstanding the enormous distances. Virginia alone is as large as all Germany, and the distance from the Mississippi to New York as great as the whole length of Europe. It was indeed interesting to observe the wonderful celerity with which the Americans proceeded. ' Adams's Express Company ' and the telegraph were institutions which I might say followed the skirmishers. At the same time, with the first tent generally grew up a shanty with the firm of ' Adams's Ex- press,' which conveyed parcels of every size to the army and throughout the Union. In America it was thought desirable that the soldiers should know what their comrades were doing hundreds of miles off. One of the first things done was there- fore the arrangement of a very regular newspaper service. Stations were established between the camp and the next rail- road or steamship landing, and newsboys on horseback, nearly disappearing between papers, came in full gallop and brought the welcome sheets to the soldiers, who bought thousands of copies, paying with pleasure double prices and more. A department highly important for the comfort of the sol- diers is that of the suders, and I frequently wondered how miserably this branch was arranged in the German army, which in other respects is so far superior to any other. I shall speak Cam}:) Life at Aquaia Creek. 43 of this and many other things in their place, but only mention here that the care for the extra and private comfort of the sol- diers was in the American army not left to such low and desti- tute wretches as we have seen disgracing the German by their rapacity. The sutlers were regularly appointed and enrolled, and wore unifornis, and many of them were very substantial people, kept well-supplied stores, and had many subordinates and agents. Of abuses and other inconveniences in this respect, I shall have occasion to speak later. Liquors were prohibited in the American army, which would appear quite intolerable to German soldiers ; but with Americans it was necessary ; especially in regiments where the Irish element prevailed. Germans are reasonable in the use of liquor ; Americans, 1 am sorry to say, are in general not ; and besides it must be considered that disciphne in an army formed Uke the American cou-ld not be maintained in the same manner as in the German army. Of the sanitary arrangements I must speak more at length later ; I shall drop the subject, and return to our delightful camp life near Aquaia Creek, which was a string of amuse- ments. In the daytime we wentabout visiting ourneighbours, amongst • whom were very pleasant people. And every evening we had receptions in our tent. We played a rubber of whist, whilst Groeben was brewing punch or eggnog for our guests, who retired always at midnight. There were, of course, plenty of newspaper reporters in our camp ; and as they had not much to write about the war, they described our sports and festivals, which descriptions tempted many people to pay us a visit ; and even Mr. Lincoln, or per- . haps Mrs. Lincoln, could not resist. The announcement of this visit caused, of course, great excitement ; and preparations were made to entertain them as well as possible. They were to stay at General Hooker's head-quarters ; but the real maitre de plaisirs was General Sickles, who had been in Europe, and who knew all about it. He wanted to introduce even some novelties of a monarchical smack, and proposed to appoint for the time of the visit some ladies of honour to attend on Mrs. Lincoln. This plan, however, was not to the liking of the American ladies, each of whom thought herself quite as sovereign as the wife of the President. 44 . Ten Years of my Life. President Lincoln's features are well known. People said that his face was ugly. He certainly had neither the figure nor features of the Apollo of Belvedere ; but he never appeared ugly to me, for his face, beaming with boundless kindness and benevolence towards mankind, had the stamp of intellectual beauty. I could not look into it without feeling kindly towards him, and without tears starting to my eyes, for over the whole face was spread a melancholy tinge, which some will have noticed in many persons who are fated to die a violent death. A German author, I think it is L. Tieck, says somewhere that one loves a person only the better on discovering in him or her something funny or ridiculous, and this remark struck me as very correct. We may worship or revere a perfect per- son ; but real warm human aftection we feel towards such as do not overawe us, but stand nearer to us by some imperfec- tion or peculiar weakness provoking a smile. President Lin- coln's appearance v/as peculiar. There was in his face, besides kindness and melancholy, a sly humour flickering around the corners of his big mouth and his rather small and somewhat tired-looking eyes. He was tall and thin, with enormously long loose arms and big hands, and long legs ending with feet such as I never saw before ; one of his shoes might have served Commodore Nutt as a boat. The manner in which he dressed made him appear even taller and thinner than he was, for the clothes he wore seemed to be transmitted to him by some still taller elder brother. In summer, when he wore a suit made of some light black stuff, he looked like a German village schoolmaster. He had very large ears standing oft a little, and when he was in a good humour I always expected him to flap with them like a good-natured elephant. .' • Notwithstanding his peculiar figure, he did not appear ridi- culous ; he had of the humourous just as much about him as the people like to see in public characters they love. Lincoln was beloved by the Americans more than any other man ; he was the most popular President the United States ever had, Washington and Jackson not excepted. I need not say that everything was done by the command- ing-generals to entertain Mrs. Lincoln and the President, who on reviewing the troops was everywhere received with heart- felt cheers. A Reception on New Years Day. 45 After having lived now for a number of years in Europe, I can well understand the astonishment of Germans newly arriv- ing in America on seeing the simple and unceremonious manner in which the President is treated. Though standing at the head of 40,000,000 of people, and having during their reign more power than any European king, neither Lincoln, nor Johnson, nor Grant behaved with half t'ne conceit that we notice in a Prussian ' Regierungsrath/ The title of the President is ' your Excellency / but it is only used by foreigners. Americans call him Mr. President, or simply by his name. There were before the White House no sentinels, not even a porter ; everybody could enter the residence of the nation. There were ooe or two officials in citizens' dress in the house to answer questions ; but no crowd of gorgeously liveried footmen was to be seen, and even at great public re- ceptions everything went off as simply as possible, only such arrangements being made as were necessary for preventing confusion. There was no particular dress required, and sol- diers coming directly from the camp m their cloaks went simply in and shook hands with their highest chief. Such a reception, for instance, at New Year's Day was very hard work for the President, especially for Lincoln, whose re- ceptions were always excessively crowded, because people loved him. All visitors entered a certain door, and passed — as they came — in a single file to the President, to whom a marshal called out the names. The President shook hands with everyone, saying, at least, ' How do you do ? ' if not hav- ing occasion for a few words more. The file passed out through a window on a kind of bridge constructed of simple board. This hand-shaking was a most fatiguing exercise, for it had to be repeated several thousand times, and President Lincoln's shoulder was always swollen after it, so that he could scarcely use his arm for a few days. Notwithstanding this absence of ceremony, the President is respected as much as any king. Outward pomp is not required with a free people. An Asiatic'despot would be nothing with- out his guards, his throne, and gorgeous dresses, &c. The real power of a prince is based on the love of his nation, and the comparative simplicity with which our august empress and emperor appear now always in public is a very significant token. 4G Ten Years of my Life. I explained before that the American soldiers were engaged only for a certain time, and that the commission of the colonel and other officej-s expired when the regiment was disbanded ; they became then again simple citizens, receiving neither pay nor pensions, if not disabled in the service. Did they want to serve again, they had to look out for a new commission, and it happened frequently that they accepted one of a lower degree ; that is, former colonels became perhaps captains or lieutenants. Nay, I know a case where a colonel entered as a private sol- dier in a regiment, which was commanded by a colonel who had served before as a private in his former regiment. When the war commenced it was expected to last only a short time, and the 8th New York Regiment, which was one of the first formed, Avas engaged only for two years. Its term therefore expired in the spring of 1863, and Salm was, of course, to be dismissed with his men. He was therefore anxious to procure a new colonel's commission, which was not so very difficult for hirr , but a colonel was only accepted as such by the War Department of the Union if he brought with him a regiment, or, at least, 700 men of it. Had the men of the 8th Regiment chosen to enlist for another term, everything might have remained as it was, but the men wanted mostly to go home for a time, and only about a hundred remained. Salm tried hard to arrange everything so as to make it pos- sible to remain with the army, as heavy fighting was to be expected very soon ; but he did not succeed, nolwith^anding the goodwill of the commanding generals. He had to lead his regiment back to New York, where it had to be disbanded. I was at that time in Washington, very busy in behalf of my husband. The 7th and 8Lh New York Regiments, on their way to their city, had to pass Washington, whose citizens pre- pared for them a reception. Accompanied by Colonel Corvin, who rode Blenker's most beautiful thorough-bred Victor, and several other officers, we proceeded to the landing on the Po- tomac, where the regiments were to arrive in large transport steamers. They were received with much cheering, and after having formed, the whole procession, headed by myself and a numerous cortege, marched across Washington to the New York railroad depot. The 7th regiment had been commanded by Colonel von Schack, a very brave and popular officer, who was formerly a chamberlain of the Princess Charles of Prussia, End of a pleasant period of my Life. 47 and who for similar reasons to Salm's had come to Am.erica. In his regiment had been, as a captain, another Prussian officer, who had served in the Gardes du Corps, Von Buggen- hagen. He was severely wounded at the battle of Fredericks- burg, and died in Washington on the New Year's night. He was buried with all military honours through the care of the Colonels Corvin and Radowitz, and Mr. Gau, Secretary of the Prussian Legation, in the senatorial churchyard, where he lay at the side of Captain Schwenke and Lieutenant-Colonel Gerber, who was murdered by mistake, a jealous lover taking him for another man. We went to New York, where the regiment was disbanded. The returnyig soldiers were received by their fellow-citizens with great rejoicing, and all contributed to do them honour. On the 2nd of May, Mr. Landmann and Mr. Edinger enter- tained at their expense the whole regiment in Landmann's * Hamilton Park,' and on this occasion the soldiers presented Salm with a testimony of their love and respect, consisting of a magnificent sword of honour, with a solid golden scabbard and hilt with silver ornaments bearing the following inscription : 'The Soldiers of the 8th regiment, N.Y.S.V., to their Colonel Felix, Pr. Salm.' Salm thanked them in some deeply-felt appropriate words, and the whole festival gave general satis- faction. In the evening we had a ball, where all the soldiers appeared with their wives or sweethearts, whom they presented to me, and I held quite a reception. I scarcely recognized the well- known faces of the soldiers, who appeared in their citizen dresses. It was a very pleasant party, and I felt quite affected by the kind and confident manner in which I was treated by these good Germans. At supper I was of course toasted, and when Salm rose to answer, he was silenced by die clamorous demand for a speech from me. I had to comply, and my efforts to express myself in German were received with thunder- ing applause. . . • Thus ended a very pleasant, rather too short, period of my American life, and one of trouble and anxiety commenced. 48 CHAPTER IV. Our New York life— In a Methodist's house — Sahn, Colonel of the 68th Regiment N.Y.V. — In partibiis — Recruiting difficulties-^Salm autho- rised to raise a brigade — His and Corvin's recruting plan favoured by Secretary of State, W. H. Seward — An audience with President Lincoln — Secretary of War Stanton opposing — A visit to Blenker's farm — The battle of Chancellorville — Defeat of Hooker— Superseded by General Meade — The glorious battle of Gettysburg — General Sickles severely wounded — The New York Riots — Mrs. Bennett — Mr, James Gordon Bennett — His Son — Fort Washingron — The first appearance of Master Jimmy — Mrs. James Speier — The Spiritualist Excitement — Mrs. Anna Sugdon, a pretty knocking, and Mrs. Heath Adams, a writing medium — Spiritual seances at my house — At Mrs. Bennett's — The flying music-book — At Mrs. Speier's--A table knocked off its legs — A detected tipping medium— Bad state of affairs — I go out recruiting to Washington. We took private lodgings in 32, Bond Street, New York, in the house of Rev. Baldwin, a Methodist preacher. Every Wednesday and Saturday night prayer meetings were held in a large room adjoining ours, and we were much astonished by the clamorous devotion of the congregation. The spirit moved them vehemently, and those who did not know what they were about would have believed that the inmates of a madhouse had broken loose. Their ecstacies were wonderful, and the longer the thing lasted, the louder and wilder and more piercing be- came the shrieks of the devoted. Dozens of voices cried out, * Jesus Christ, come dov/n, come down, that we can touch your garments ! ' or ' Glory, glory, glory ! Many fainted or fell down in fits, kicking and beating the ground. One of these nights, when some particular occurrence must have moved the saints in an unusual manner, the police knocked at our shutters — we lived on the ground-floor — and Recruiting. 49 told us to stop that fighting and shrieking, which alarmed the whole street- They were much astonished on hearing that the Methodists were only fighting with the devil, and having no desire to hinder such holy contests, they disappeared awe- struck. We afterwards always went out on those evenings. Salm succeeded in his endeavours to get a new colonel's commission fi-om the Governor of New York, who appointed him colonel of the 68th Regiment N.Y.V. That regiment was not yet disbanded, and figured still on the list of regiments in the service, but it had dwindled away to scarcely one company who stood in the field. Salm had to reorganise the regiment, and opened a recruiting ofiice in Broadway, No. 619, at Mail- lard's Hotel. He was very sanguine in his hopes, and, being ambitious also, he wanted to raise a whole brigade, for which lie procured the authorisation and the promise of several colo- nels ill partibus^ to serve under his command. Things had, however, clianged very much since 186 1. The immense losses sustained in McClellan's peninsular campaign, on the many battle-fields and the swamps of Chickahominy ; the hardships which the solcliers had to undergo, the incompe- tence of most generals, and the barbarous manner in which the soldiers were still treated in the army, had considerably cooled down the military enthusiasm of the nation. When the war commenced most people imagined that it would be soon and gloriously ended,, and, excited by the political ora- tors, and attracted by the novelty of military life, of which the dark and appalling features were not known yet, an immense number of volunteers rushed to the recruiting offices. In fact, the whole first army consisted of volunteers. That was at an end now, and the Governments of the difi"erent States had to resort to all kinds of inducements, which, however, did not induce many, and the advantages and promises granted to sol- diers had to be made more alluring every month. The Gov- ernment of New York offered a bounty of three hundred dol- lars to everyone who. enlisted for three years ; and patriotic societies throughout the United States, and the General Gov- ernment itself, provided means to increase this bounty, which at the end of the war amounted in several states to nearly one thousand dollars. This bounty was, of course, not to be paid at once and in advance, but it was sure £0 be paid at the end 5( Ten Years of my Life. of the war, or after three years, or sooner if the soldier should be killed, or die when in service, to his heirs. It was very natural that thS attention of sharpers, and all sorts of people who wanted to make money in an easy manner, was soon directed to this recruiting business. Promises, how- ever great and sure, have not much attraction for common men ; they prefer a hundred dollars in cash to a thousand to be paid after three years, and there were plenty of people ready to furnish such cash, well satisfied with the certainty of getting six or ten times the amount after three years. A colo- nel raising a regiment, and desirous of reaching as soon as possible the number required for his acceptance by the Gene- ral Government, could not succeed without the assistance of agents, who hunted out people willing to enlist on payment of a small sum, and to cede all their claims to them. The agents were, however, not the only persons who had an eye to business ; the men on whom they speculated were just as sharp as themselves, and amongst them were precious rogues who liked the money but not the service. Knowing that most of these recruiting agents were sharpers, and not particular in regard to the honesty of their transactions, they did not think it a crime to cheat them. Circumstances favoured their fraudulent intentions, and they had hundreds of means to carry them out. In European States everybody is, as it were^ labelled by the police as soon as he is born, and in the books of this institution is to be found' his biography. That is not so in America, where the police only take notice of a person when committing some breach of the law. Many persons enlisted under a false name, and deserted, after having received , money, to a neighbouring State, where they repeated the same trick. Those who practised this business were called ' bounty- jumpers,' and they were severely punished — if caught. Poor Salm, though a very brave soldier, was very little fit for this kind of business, and became utterly disgusted with it : necessity compelled him to go on as well as he could, but he made indeed but little progress. It was natural that he reflected on some more effective manner of raising men for his brigade, and as so many people came from Europe attracted by the war, his eyes were longingly directed towards that country where recruiting under such favourable terms would have been the most easy work in the Recruiting Sharper s. 51 world. There were thousands of young men who would have liked to emigrate if they could only find the means to pay their passage, and being compelled to serve in the armies of their native countries for a very low pay, and no bounty at all, they would most willingly serve in that of the United States, on re- ceiving free passage, a round sum of money, fourteen dollars a month, and after the expiration of their time a grant of a con- siderable number of acres from the Government. The subject was frequently discussed between him and Col- onel Corvin, who was much in favour of emigration. Corvin had arrived in Washington with very good recommendations to President Lincoln, who introduced him to the Secretarv of State, Mr. Seward, in whose house he was very kindly received. He passed many evenings, sometimes alone, with that eminent statesman, who conceived a very favourable opmion of the military talents of the colonel. He offered him repeatedly the command of a regiment, but the colonel declined, not liking the state of military affairs in the United States, and preferring his position as a war correspondent to the influential papers with which he was connected. Mr Seward even had the intention of making him a general, and employing him in the organisation of a great general staff, which was an utterly unknown thing in the United States. He caused him to con- fer on that subject with Senator Wilson, of Massachusetts, who was at the* head of the military commission of the Senate. The affair ended, however, in nothing, as it was impossible to make people understand the utility or necessity of a general staff. ' The generals had all their staff, and staffs were nui- sances ; they required practical field officers.' When the difficulty of raising men was once spoken of, Colonel Corvin suggested the above mentioned idea to Mr. Seward, who was rather pleased with it, and thought it practi- cal. He promised to speak about it to the President, and one day Salm and the colonel had an audience. The colonel, who speaks English quite perfectly, explained to the President his and Salm's plan, requiring from hiui au- thority to raise twenty thousand men for the army of the United States. President Lincoln, his knees drawn up, his head in both hands, and his elbows resting on his knees, listened attentively for about a quarter of an hour. " When the colonel had finish- 52 Ten Years of my Life. ed, ls\x. Lincoln remained for a time silent, then at once he threw up his long arms, calliug out in his peculiar manner, ' Well, gentlemen, that's a very great affair ! But mind, I do not promise you anything for certain, I must first speak to the Secretary of War !' In the ensuing conversation he touched on the difficulties into which his Government might get with the European Pow- ers, on which Colonel Corvin said, that if he gave Salm and him authority to raise twenty thousand men it did not include the authority to raise them in Europe, and what they thought expedient to do for the purpose would be done on their own danger and responsibility. ' Bring the men,' said Mr. Lincoln, ' you know they will be welcome, and no questions asked.' * Yes, Mr. President,' answered Corvin, * but I cannot get them without money, and cannot get money without your sig- nature, under the requested authorisation.' Mr. Chittenden, then ' Register of the Treasury,' to whom Corvin had commu- nicated the plan, had said that his bankers would be at the colonel's disposition if Lincoln would give such authorisation. The negotiations ended, however, in nothing, for Mr. Stan- ton, who was utterly disgusted with foreigners, and besides averse to anything supported by Mr. Seward, would hear noth- ing of such a proposition, and opposed it decidedly. I will only mention in reference to this affair a circumstance which is rather characteristic. The Prince and Corvin signed a paper promising an influential person twenty thousand dollars if the President would sign the requested authorisation. While Salm was busy all day with his recruiting affairs, my life in New York was by no means agreeable, especially as it was midsummer and the heat overpowering. I accepted, therefore, with pleasure, the invitation of General Blenker to pass a few weeks on ' Blenker's Farm,' near Rookville, in the State of New York. Dear old Blenker's home was a place which I remember with great pleasure and affection. I have seen grander country seats, but nowhere have I been received with such heartfelt kindness and hospitality, and nowhere I felt more at home. It was a delightful time. Poor Blenker died, I think, in December of the same year., I am glad that I have had an oj:)portunity of doing justice to his memory, for he has been General Hooker. 53 reviled much by his enemies, who treated him most unjustly and shamefully. I mentioned that heavy fighting was expected to take place soon when my husband's regiment and himself were disbanded. These expectations were more than fulfilled by ' Fighting Joe/ as General Hooker was called, who crossed the Rappahanoc at Kelley's Ford above Fredericksburg, and took up a position near Chancellorsville. Hooker, whose design was said to be to attack the rebels in flank and rear, was attacked himself on the 2nd May, 1863, by Stonewall Jackson, who appeared on his right flank. The right wing, consisting of the nth Corps, composed only of German regiments, was rolled up like a sheet of paper. Fight- ing was continued the following days with no better success, and Hooker, profiting by an opportune storm of heavy rain, recrossed the river on the 8th of May at night, having lost in these days above twenty thousand men. Hooker was a great favourite with the Americans, and as they did not like to lay the fault of this great disaster on his shoulders, the poor Germans had to serve as a scapegoat. They were accused of cowardice, and everybody was wroth against them except those who understood things better. These said that neither Napoleon's Old Guard nor the best Prussian troops would have been able to resist this flank attack of Stonewall Jackson, placed as badly as they were. I am no military critic, and only repeat what I heard from some who were supposed to understand war, and also from German officers who took part in that battle. Some of these feeling uneasy at the position of their corps, had reconnoitred on their own account, and discovered in time the approach of Jackson's army on their flank. Seeing the imminent danger, they reported it at once to General Howard, a very devout man and zealous abolitionist, with only one arm and no military head ; but the general treated their news with contempt, arid answered — like a Chinese — ' that he expected to be attacked in front.', Lee's victorious army advanced rapidly, again with the de- cided intention of transferring the war to the territory of the Union ; part of his forces crossed the Potomac on June i4di, and entered Maryland — just as they had done a year before ; and towards the end of the month Lee took his head-quarters 54 Ten Years of my Life. at Hagerstown, only a few miles from the glorious battle-field of Antietam. The consternation at Washington beggers description. The President called out a hundred thousand men more, to serve for six months, and to be levied from the next threatened States— Maryland, Pennsylvania, and New York, which State was to furnish seventy thousand men. Many sighed now for Mvlellan, for they discovered that their favourite, ' Fighting Joe/ though a very brave man and good commander of a corps, was no strategist. At the eleventh hour he was relieved by General Meade, who at once attacked the rebels, the nth (German) Corps and the ist being in ad- vance. Howard had to fall back before an overwhelming force, to a position near Gettysburg, of which the centre was the cemetery, waiting for reinforcements. A great battle en- sued on the 2nd of June, and the Germans fought gloriously, well supported on their left by the 3rd Corps, under General Sickles, who here lost one leg by a spent cannon-ball The battle was renewed on the 3rd ; the rebels were every- where repulsed, and retired on the morning of the 4th, pursued by the victorious troops. Though Meade did not succeed either "in annihilating Lee or in preventing him from recrossing the Potomac, and retreating towards the Rapidan, he was not blamed and treated as a traitor as McClellan had been, but praised deservedly as the saviour of Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Washington, though he had lost not less than twenty-three thousand men in dead, wounded, and missing. The Potomac army took their old position on the Rappahanoc. 1 judge it necessary to give a short sketch of these impor- tant events, as there resulted from them others which occurred in Nev/ York, and in which Salm and myself were involved. The military enthusiasm of the people had, as said before, much abated, and recruits were not to be had, notwithstanding the enormous bounties which were paid, Soldiers the Gov- ernment, however, must have, and a draft was ordered. This measure was very obnoxious to the people, and became still more so to the poorer classes, in consequence of a most foolish law, which permitted drafted people to buy themselves oft by paying three hundred dollars. , Free Negroes. 55 The Republican"^ Government had many enemies In New York, where the democratic party was exceedingly strong. The above-mentioned measure furnished them a welcome means to work on the lower classes, especially on the very numerous Irish element, favourably inclined towards the de- mocrats because they hated the negroes. The cause of this hatred was envy and jealousy. The now free negroes arrived in great numbers in New York, and became rivals to the low Irish, who until then had furnished most house servants, hotel v/aiters, &c. They were highly indignant that the negroes should have the same rights as themselves, that they should be permitted to ride in the same cars as the white people, and no longer be looked upon a,s biped cattle. New York was then utterly void of soldiers. All militia regiments had been sent to Pennsylvania to resist the invasion. The police force was not numerous, and the forts were garri- soned only by a few hundred men. The opportunity for the bad designs of -the enemies of the Government was very favour- able, and they were not slow in using it. I have not seen the Irish at home, and cannot judge about them in general, I have become acquainted with well-educated Irish gentlemen and ladies, and found them most intelligent and agreeable people, but the low Irish rabble of New York are the most degraded and brutish set of human beings I know; I shudder to think of them, and in my opinion they stand far beneath the negroes. They may, in many respects, be more highly gifted and talented than those, but their behaviour is always meaner and rougher ; and the negroes have besides the great advantage over the Irish, that they are sober ; a drunken negro is a rarity, whilst drunkenness is the prevailing state amongst the American descendants of Erin. When the draft commenced on Saturday, July ii, in New York, everything seemed to pass off with unexpected quiet ; but on Sunday mischief was brewing, and on Monday, the 13th, a storm broke loose, which only found its parallell in the events taking place during the reign of the Commune in Paris. I The position of the ' Democrats ' in America corresponded to that of ttie.' ' Conservatives ' in Germany ; tlieir extremest Democrats were called Copperheads, and were in favour of secession and slavery. 56 Ten Years of my Life. The riot commenced with an attack by the mob on a draft- ing office, which was destroyed and burned. The excitement spread throughout the great city, and a sudden fury seized the whole low Irish population. Its only object seemed murder and plunder, and the attacks were directed especially against all persons connected with the draft, republican officials and negroes, but also against wealthy people in general. The fury increased next day ; it was indeed as if hell had been let loose on the unfortunate city. The political hue of the riot disap- peared ; murdering and plundering became its chief objects. Not only men took part in it, women were to be seen everywhere foremost, and even children ; and the ferocity of the Irish surpassed anything I ever read of Wherever negroes were discovered, they were hung or otherwise barbarously murdered, and women stuck their knives into still palpitating bodies, and made cruel fun of them, A coloured orphan asylum, containing several hundreds of coloured children, was burned, and children thrown into the flames. Horrid-looking men patrolled the streets in troops, searching houses and plundering them. For four long days and nights these scoundrels terrified the .city. No decently-dressed persons dared to show themselves ^n the streets, but locked themselves up in their houses, fear- ng every moment to be visited by the rioters. Poor negroes hid themselves in cellars, where they remained without food for many days. The courage of the mob was increased by the evident inability of the authorities to suppress the riot, and also by their want of decision. Governor Seymour seemed not to be well disposed towards the General Government, and dis- approved of the draft. Not wishing to lose his popularity with the Irish element, he acted with blameable leniency and want of energy. The police and the few troops were checked and restricted in the use of their arms. They, by order of their superiors, had to use only blank cartridges, which of course had the same pernicious eftect as experienced everywhere. When the Trihu/ie office was attacked, some guns were placed in position ; a few shots with canister would have been suffici- ent to drive the cowards howling away ; instead of that, the firing with blank cartridges encouraged them. The building was, however, saved by the efforts of the police force. Among the better classes of Irish were some who disap- Iliots in Ncvj York. 57 proved much of these horrors, and amongst them was Colonel O'Brien. When a troop of rioters approached his house, he stepped out and addressed them in a conciliatory manner, ex- horting them to desist from their wickedness. He was answer- ed by cries of ' Down with him ! he is a traitor — kill him 1' He was horribly beaten and stabbed, and sunk down on his threshold. Then he, still alive, was drag,q;ed through the mud. All entreaties of his wife and children were in vain ; the .un- fortunate man died after having been tormented for twenty- four hours. The fury raged in all districts of the city. If the mob had finished with the house of one abolitionist, some persons cried out, ' Off to the Seventh (or any other) Avenue, to the house of Mr. X.' The regiments called from Pennsylvania in the greatest hurry, who did not fire with blank cartridges, succeeded in mastering the riot. They killed a great many people, but sustained also heavy losses. Salm placed himself at once at the disposition of the City Government, collected some troops from among his recruits and others, and led them against the rioters. During his absence, and whilst such excitement prevailed, I could not stay at home and tremble. I wanted to see and to do — but what, I did not know. To go in the street in my usual dress would have been madness, and I resolved therefore to put on a dress of my servant girl, Ellen, who was to accompany me as a kmd of a safeguard, for she was an Irish girl, and her brogue was then the best laisser-passer, \ The scenes I witnessed were horrible and disgusting at the same time. All the lowest passions were mifettered, and showed themselves in their vilest nakedness. The danger in the streets was great, for the few troops and police were scarce- ly to be noticed in the surging crowd, and they were, more- over, mostly employed in protecting the public buildings and offices. The rioters had it all their own way, finding no resis- tance from the citizens, \\(ho locked themselves up in their houses, happy if they were not noted for abolitionist principles or riches, or were unconnected with the draft. The poor negroes darted about like hunted hares — men, women, and children ; and it was heart-rending to hear their frantic cnes and look into iheir horror-struck faces if caught by the pur.su- 58 Ten Years of my Life, ing foe. To interfere would- have been useless and dangerous, as was proved by the sad fate ?)f Colonel O'Brien, though his name was one of note amongst the Irish. Seeing that I could do nothing, and not wishing to see any more, I was glad when I was home again. Though Governor Seymour opposed it, the General Govern- ment remained firm, and the draft was enforced, and strict measures taken to prevent the return of such disorders. New York soon resumed its usual aspect. During my stay in New York I received much attention from many families. I cannot mention all whom I remember with heartfelt gratitude. I must not pass over that family who contributed most to making my rather troublesome sojourn in New York agreeable ; it was the family of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the late well-known proprietor of the Neiv York Hey-ald. I w^as a frequent guest at his magnificent country- seat at Port Washington, and at his palatial mansion on Fifth Avenue. Mrs. Bennett was a very distinguished and extremely kind lady, who, having lived abroad, had adopted and acquired the tastes and manners of the European ladies. In possession of a very ample fortune, she knew how to employ it in the most appropriate and generous manner. Her husband, on marrying her, presented her with one or two advertising columns of the Herald^ of which the revenue grew with that paper, and amounted then to annually thirty thousand dollars. Mr. James Gordon Bennett was a tall, thin, square-built Scotch gentlemen, of great energy and talent, which was re- warded by the almost unheard-of success of the New York Herald^ the most enterprising paper in the world. At his recent death all papers published his biography, and I may presume that he is generally known. The last expedition in search of Dr. Livingstone, in which the Herald v\Qd uniformly with even the English Government, is only one of the many samples of the enterprising spirit in which that great cosmo- politan institution, the Nezu York Herald, was conducted by its creator. He was besides a very good man, and extremely kind to us. His memory will always remain sacred to me. His son and heir to the many millions he left is James Bennett, who was then a nice dashing young man. Young Bennett was, and probably is still, an eminent sportsman, who The Spiritualistic Epideinic. 59 had the finest horses on the turf, and who excelled especially in yachting. His daring and wonderful trip in his yacht across the Atlantic will still be remembered. Port Washington was a magnificent estate in the English style, with fine grounds and an extensive park. Being a lover of dogs, I was much interested in the live museum of these animals kept by Mr. James. He had not less than fifty of difterent kinds, all kept in various fine kennels. I was pre- sented with a pup of a particularly fine breed, a black and tan long-legged terrier, with a wonderful head, large clear eyes, and a skin like velvet.* As it became a most important mem- ber of my household, tyrannising over everybody, and myself most of all, and accompanying me everywhere like my shadow, I owe it to his dignity to say something more of this distin- guished four-legged gentleman. The promising pup was solemnly christened ' Jimmy ' over a bowl of punch, and taken home in my pocket. After having been submitted to a bath m my washing-basin, to remove all reminiscences of the kennel, the interesting infant was nursed alternately by Salm and myself. We tried to appease his well-developed appetite by means of the milk-bottle, but he despised milk, and we were in despair, for he whined all night. How happy we were on discovering that the little darling took kindly to fried oysters and the yoke of hard-boiled eggs, which refined taste was a sure proof that he was no common dog. On this simple' fare he was raised until he learnt how to appreciate roast veal, which latter meat is still his favourite food. His meals agreed exceedingly well with him ; he grew soon out of my pocket, and became a beautiful well-sized dog, and even now, though in his thirteenth year, looks like a canine youth. His name will cccur frequently in this book. Another lady from whom I received much kindness, and whom I remember with great pleasure, was Mrs. James Speirs, the wife of a wealthy broker. She was an English lady of very good family, and I became much attached to her. She was very lively, and at that time an enthusiastic spiritualist. The spiritualistic epidemic was then commencing to rage in America. One heard of nothing but of spirits and of mediums. All tables and other furniture seemed to have become alive, and you could nOw sit down upon a chair without a spiritual suspicion. 60 Te-ii Years of iny Life. When I became acquainted with Mrs. Speirs she was still in her first flush ot enthusiasm, aad most anxious to convert every one to her new creed, which upset our long-entertained notions, and was in direct contradiction with the teachings ot my reli- gion. 1 therefore treated spiritualism as heresy, and defended myself against its contagious power. The more I doubted, however, the more eager became Mrs. Speirs to convince me. Her husband being, like most brokers, more of a materialist than of a spiritual turn of mind, treated these new-fangled things as deception and humbug, but being also a well-trained husband he let Mrs. Speirs have her way, comforting himself with the hope, supported by experience, that this fashionable fancy would die out with time, and give place to some other less dangerous to the brain. I have been told that spiritualism origmated in Germany, like mesmerism, which has been connected with it. Though this belief seems to have died out in Germany, it is still in full bloom in America and in England, where spiritualism, in all its many different shades, counts its believers in thousands, in spite of common sense and religion. It would be almost impossible, and lead me too far, to des- cribe all the mmnces of this sect, which includes mesmerism, somnambulism, free-love people, &c. The leading feature of this creed is, however, at least as- I understand it, the belief that the spirits of the dead do not pass from this earth, but that they remain here amongst us unseen, occupying different spheres, and fulfilling more or less high duties according to their more or less virtuous life in the body. Some who did evil have become bad spirits and oppose the good ones. Which duties are allotted to all these spirits of the different spheres, I could not exactly make out, for I cannot think that making strange noises, causing tables to dance and performing all kinds of useless and childish tricks, should be their only occupation. Though I, as I said before, resisted this epidemic on the ground of religion and common sense, I could not help becoming interested in this strange aberration, and feeling tempted to witness some manifestations of spiritualism. The Prince, however, tried to dissuade me from such an attempt, as he was afraid that the excitement would act too strongly on my imagination. I therefore abstained from visiting some of tho-e public exhibitions of professional spiritualists, but did not resist Several Great Mediums. 61 the entreaties of Mrs. Speirs to have some spiritual entertain- ment at home, against which good Sahii had no objection. Mrs. Speirs had presented me to several great mediums. One was a ' knocking,' another a ' tipping,' and a third a * writing ' medium. The knocking medium — that is, the one which communicated with the spirits by means of knocks, answering her questions by a certain number of them, meaning yes or no — was a very pretty girl, of the name of Anna Sugden. I have forgotten the name of the ' tipping ' medium, a lady who made the spirits tip tables and other heavy pieces of furniture for purposes I could not fathom. The ' writing ' medium was a Mrs. Heath Adams. She caused her friends amongst the spirits to induce others to answer questions in the same handwriting they once wrote v/hen living in the body on this earth. This Mrs. Heath Adams made herself quite notorious. She afterwards went to the Potomac army and converted the soldiers to her belief She created amongst them such an ex- citement and confusion, that the generals could not tolerate it, and expelled her from the camp as a dangerous fanatic, whose place would be better in a lunatic asylum. One evening, Mrs. Spiers, three mediums, and many other ladies assembled for a spiritual entertainment in my lodging. We were sitting round a table in a larsje room full of expectation. The gaslights were turned down, leaving only a dim light which seems to agree with spirits. The spirits were rather slow in coming, and the knocks, manifesting their presence, were very faint and timid. Miss Sugden explained that the table was ' not yet charged sufiliciently,' and requested us to be patient. We were patient, and the excitement and fear of some of the ladies increased every moment. At last the knocking became louder, and the spirits made such a noise that I really was airaid my table would be knocked to pieces. Now the medium proposed to put mental questions to the spirits, on which they would answer by knocks meaning yes or no, which was done to general satisfaction. Though I could see the ladies, and observe their movements, I could not help connecting these knocks with them, and ask- ing whether the powers of the spirits extended only to the table ; the medium answered that 1 might wish, only in my thoughts, to hear the knocking anywhere else. I did so, and scarcely 62 Ten Years of my Life. had I wished to hear it in a far off corner of the room, when at the desired place a tremendous noise commenced. Still re- maining suspicious, I wished to'transfer the knocks to the ceiling and had scarcely thought it, when the ceiling resounded with such knocks that I was afraid it would come down. That was too much for some of the party ; they shrieked and became faint, and the gas had to be turned up again. When their minds had been calmed sufficientJy by persuasion, the gas was turned oft" altogether, and we were sitting all in the dark. At ®nce lights flitted through the room, shining against the wall or ceiling, as if produced by a dark lantern. We felt as if something was blown into our faces, and even some small bodies like fine sand were thrown against them. In the lights, flickering about, we saw spectre-like hands, and the excitement and fear became so great with some if the )artv that the gas had to De relit. The mediums declare ^ that their strength was exhausted, and the spiritual entertainment ended. Notwithstanding all 1 had seen, I remained a disbeliever , but dear Felix, who was afraid of the impression the whole proceeding would make on me, was quite excited and converted himself Mrs. Speirs exulted, and was rather angry that was such a disbeliever. She regretted nothing more than that she was no medium, and that the spirits would have nothing to do with her. I seemed to be more favoured ; the medium at least, de- clared that I was a 'seeing medium.' But notwithstanding their assurances, I could see nothing, though I tried very hard to please them, and even invented visions for this purpose, which they, hov^^ever, soon discovered accordingly, and resented as being only fun. They said that the spirits were offended at disbelief, and unwilling to perform in the presence of scofters. We had several of such private spiritual entertainments, which amused me much. Though I did not believe in any- thing; supernatural, I was puzzled as to how the things I had witnessed were produced, for what I had seen and heard was indeed surprising and wonderful, and well calculated to turn weak or imaginative brains. Sometimes things would rfot go on in the regular way. The questions were answered all wrong, and the whole spiritual world seemed thrown into confusion. The mediums were not at a loss to explain this state of things. They ascribed it to the A ' Writing' Medium. ♦ G3 influence of the evil spirits who counteracted the doings of the good ones, and we were requested to assist the latter in their struggle with our magnetic influence. We succeeded ; the evil spirits were driven from the places they had usurped, and things went on in the regular spiritual manner. It was most curious to observe the writing medium, Mrs. Heath Adams. When communicating with the spirits she was almost in a fit ; her hands moved convulsively, and before one could find out how it was done answers to mental ques- tions were written in strange hand-writings on the paper, often signed with the name of the dead person addressed. As everybody was more or less excited about these spiritual manifestations, Mrs. Bennett was no exception, and became curious to witness some ot thenv She therefore invited a noted professor of spiritualism, whose name I have forgotten, to per- form before a company in her house. We were sitting in her front parlour, the folding door of the back parlour being closed. The spirits were not slow in obeying the summons of the pro- fessor. We saw again the lights and also the mysterious hands. On being requested to form some mental wish to be executed by the spirits — the lights being turned down and shining dimly, Mrs. Bennett wished to have a very large music book, which was near the piano in the back parlour, under a whole pile of other books. She had scarcely formed that wish when the heavy book fell with a great noise right before her on the table around which we were sitting. Mrs. Bennett was so friglitened that she fainted. She afterwards would not have anything to do with spirits, and never assisted at one of our entertainments. Mrs. Speirs, however, became more and more believing, and more and more anxious to convince me. For this purpose she proposed a private meeting at her house, at which only herself, Miss Anna Sugden, and myself should be present. I accepted, and we were sitting one evening near a very substantial black walnut table with heavy legs, the gas nearly turned off The spirits obeyed Miss Sugden, and awaited her orders. She re- quested me to wish for something more difficult to perform than usual. I complied, and having noticed the solidity of the table at which we were sitting, I wished that the spirits would break that table, that is break one of its heavy legs. Miss Anna Sugden consulted with her familiar spirit, whose name she said was Seth, and on being asked whether he could do what I wished, he answered that it was difficult, but that he would try. 04 " Ten Years of niy Life. Very soon we heard a sound like one produced by distant rapid sawing, intennixed with tlie muffled knocks of a hammer. This strange noise lasted for nearly half an hour, when sud- denly the table lost its balance and fell against my legs. On examining it at the light I found that one of its legs had been sawn off The cut was quite smooth, as if produced by a sharp knife or an extremely fine saw ; but all my most careful search for any sawdust was in va in. Mrs. Speirs was trium- phant, and quite angry with me that I still did not believe. I tell the facts as I saw them. They are indeed strange, and I cannot explain them, but these knocking and noisy and sawing spirits are too absurd. When I soon afterwards went to Washington, Miss Sugden gave me a letter of introduction to a celebrated tipping medium, and once when Salm visited me there we invited that lady to entertain the company with her spiritual performance. The lady sat down to play at a very heavy piano, which, after some time, commenced movmg, two of its feet being lifted some inches from the ground. We were astonished, but the gentlemen present laughed, and Salm said that he was also a tipping medium, and could perform the same feat without the spirits. He sat down, and after having run over the keys, the piano moved in the same man- ner as before. He had simply pressed his knees under it, and lifted it on one side an inch or two. The detected medium received her five dollars, and retired somewhat confused. The affairs of Salm did not progress meanwhile. The dis- inclination of the people to military service became more and more decided. The drafted men were employed in filling up old regiments, but to form new ones by voluntary enlisting was nnpossible, notwithstanding the liberal bounties which were ofiered. Poor Salm was in despair, for he could not brmg together the required seven hundred men, and had only heavy expenses. I felt extremely sorry at his troubles, and puzzled my brain to find a way out of that maze. Having assisted him once, I thought it possible to do so again. I consulted with my spiritits familiaris^ dear old Senator Harris, who suggested the idea of trying with the Provost-Marshal General in Washington, whom he knew to have a good num- ber of men at his disposition. I eagerly caught at that idea, and without telling Salm what I intended to do, I got leave from him to go to Washington, under the pretext of visiting my sister^ who was living there. 65 CHAPTER V. The Provosl-MarsTial General U.S., General James Fr3'--My success — Governor Yates, of Illinois — Lovers of spirits among high-spirited gentlemen — I become a captain, commanding a company — Life in Washington — Madame von Corvin — Sanitary arrangements in the United States — The Sanitary and Christian Commissions — How the Government honoured dead soldiers — National cemeteries — A hospi- tal city — Salm again on the war-path — My journey to Iv'^ashville, Tenn. — Returning to Washmgton, I DO not exactly know how it happened that the Provost- Marshal-General of the United States had men at his disposi- tion who were not enrolled in any regiment, but it was so, and that was sufficient. This important position was occupied ■ during the whole war by Colonel J, Fry, a man of about thirty- five, who was a great favourite of Mr. Stanton. I was not personally acquainted with him, but I heard that he, though very strict in his service, was also a good and kind man, who was not only much respected, but also beloved by his subordi- nates. It was some comfort to me that he was a married man, but still my heart was very heavy when I entered the War Department and sent in my card to Colonel Fry, who only some time afterward became a general. I was admitted at once. Colonel Fry was a tall, very elegant and handsome fair- baired man, with a rather serious face, though with a kind ■expression. He was very quiet and measured, rather sparing of his words, but an attentive listener to all I said. I stated the difficult position of my husband, mentioned the services he had rendered, and his grief and disappointment on account of liis being prevented from taking part in the important events going on in the theatre of war. I said tliat I had been in- 66 Ten Years of my Life. formed by Senator Harris that he had men at his disposition ; and as they had to be placed somewhere, I requested him to give my husband the preference. The colonel did not interrupt me. When I had finished he said that he had a few hundred men, but did not know yet whether he was able to give them to the 68th New York Regi- ment ; he promised, however, to let me know as soon as pos- sible. With that he bowed politely and I left, not knowing whether I had any h(jpe or not, for the face of the colonel was like a book sealed with seven seals, and did not in the least betray his thoughts. After many hours of anxiety, having received no answer yet, I became quite despondent and doubtful, for it may be ima- gined that there were, under the circumstances, many compe- titors for these recruits, I was, therefore, electritied and buoyant with hope when at last the card of the colonel was sent in, for if he had to bring me an unfavourable answer, I. reasoned, he would not care to communicate it to me in person. 1 was not mistaken. The colonel was not so stolid as he at first appeared, and rather pleased with the zeal I showed in the behalf of my husband, and he promised to give all the men he had for the 68th Regiment. I was overjoyed at my success, and as Vappetit vient en inangeant^ I tried to get still more men, for even with those he could give me the required number was not made up yet. Though the colonel had not more at his disposal at that moment, he promised his assistance, and for this purpose in- troduced to me his friend Mr. Yates, Governor of Illinois, who at that time was present in Washington. Having occasion to confer frequently with General Fry^and Governor Yates, we became good friends, and I passed many agreeable hours in the company of these distinguished men. Society was at that time somewhat out of joint in Washington, for nearly all the leading families were closely connected witl^ the rebels, and had left the city and closed their houses, of which many were seized by the Government, and were used for public purposes, like that of Mr. Corcoran, who had not joined the rebels, however, but lived in Europe, like many persons who would not openly side with any party. The old Virginian families who generally passed the winter in Washing- Madame c^e Corvin. 67 ton, stayed away also, and the whole population had changed its cljaracter. The hotels Avere then the centres of the rather mixed and motley society. Washington people kept far from it, and the temporary inhabitants amused themselves as well as tliey could amongst themselves. The elegant and spacious drawing-rooms in Willard's, the Metropolitan and National Hotel, were always crowded, and so were the frequent bails there, called ' hops ' in America. I of course took part in these entertainments, for never los- ing sight of the purpose which brought me to Washington, I had to visit places where I had an opportunity of seeing those persons who could assist me. General Fry v/as very kind in this respect, and interested Governor Yates in my behalf, and nv)t without success. The Governor promised me a company from Illinois, but said that he would not have it commanded by any ' New York pumpkin,' and proposed that he should make me captain of that company. He kept his word, and I received from him a captain's commission and captain's pay, which, he said, would assist me in defraying the expenses I incurred in assisting the sick and wounded soldiers, in whose treatment I was much interested. During my sojourn in Washington at that time, I became ac- quainted with Aladame de Corvin, who had come from London to stay with the colonel, her husband. She was well known from the ' Colonel's Memoirs,' and I have only to say that the favourable impression produced by that book, in reference to. that kind and amiable lady, was fully justified on nearer per- sonal acquaintance. Salm was much prejudiced in her favour, and very much pleased when we became friends. During the revolution in Germany, Mrs. Corvin had gone through a course of surgery, and was as much interested as myself in everything concerning the treatment of wounded soldiers and hospitals. The American Government and people did their utmost for the welfare and comfort of their soldiers, and their liberality for this purpose was unbounded. I have already mentioned how the Government provided for them in the field, and how they tried to conquer the great difiiculties caused especially by the great distances, the bad state of the roads, away from the rail- road lines or navigable rivers, and the insecurity, especially in the revolted States. The greatest attention was paid to the care of the sick and 68 Ten Years of ray Life. wounded soldiers, and although it was difficult to find as many competent surgeons as were' wanted for the array, amountiiig to nearly a million of men, scattered over a space as extensive as Europe ; though experience was wanting in the comraenc':'- ment, the practical sense of the Americans, and the utter dis- regard of expenses in this respect, conquered all difficulties in such a manner, that their sanitary arrangements became noted throughout the world, and foreign nations sent competent men to study them. During the late French war I was exclusively occupied with this branch, of which I shall have to speak more amply in its place. I am, therefore, well enabled to make comparisons, and to judge what is practical or not. In comparing the sanitary arrangements in Germany and in America, one must not forget that Germany is not larger than many an American State ; that the whole United States have not more inhabitants than Germany, and that scarcely half of them were on the side of the Union. It must further betaken into consideration, that in German}^ and in France tovvns and , villages are close together, whilst they are very few and far between in those States which were the principal seat of the American war. Great and admirable as were the noble efforts of the German nation in behalf of their soldiers, the Ameri- cans had the great advantage over them of being far wealthier, and that they without difficulty could raise sums which could ■ never be brought together in Germany. The Germans made up this disadvantage as well as they were able to do by their personal exertions, of which there was far less in America, not for want of enthusiasm or self sacrificing desires, but tor rea- sons caused by local circumstances already mentioned before, and besides by some American peculiarities. In the French war an immense number of ladies were em- ployed in the charitable work of nursing the sick and wounded in the field, and their self-sacrificing endeavours cannot be ap- preciated and praised sufficiently. Their assistance would have been all the more desirable in America, as all able-bodied men were required for active service. Ladies were, however, not permitted to attend the wounded on the field, cj.ad I think that this measure was wise and considerate, as they would have been exposed to hardships beyond their strength. The convenience of ladies' assistance in hospitals has been Sanitary and Christian Coramissions. C9 discussed frequently. We shall see later how it worked in the. French war, and have to speak of its advantages and disadvan- tages, and say now only a few words in reference to the man- ner in which some of the latter were lessened by the practical Americans. It cannot be denied that the attendance of fine ladies is often more embarrassing than comforting to the wounded soldiers, who mostly belong to the lower classes of society, however much they may appreciate the gentle ways and the soft hands of female nurses. In an elaborately and •fashionably dressed lady a wounded soldier will rarely have confidence ; the appearance of such a nurse makes him always uncomfortable. This feeling was much lessened by a rule in force in America. All female nurses in hospitals, paid or vol- untary, servant girls or ladies, had to wear the same simple dress, resembling very much that of the Sisters of Charity. This was very important. The soldiers saw in them only female nurses, whose duty it was to provide for their wants, and not ladies above them in station who condescended to interest themselves in their behalf. The two great societies which did ftiost in supporting the sick and wounded soldiers were the 'Sanitary Commission' and the ' Christian Commission,' whose activity extended over the whole vast theatre of war, and whose efficacy can never be praised sufficiently. At every station and military port were to be found agents and depots of these two benevolent associ- ations, each of which had many millions of dollars at their dis- posal. No railway train, no transport steamer was to be found, on which were not to be seen immense piles of boxes, ad- dressed 'Frederick Law Olmstedt,' or 'Christian Commission.' Mr. Olmstedt stood for a long time at the head of the Sanitary Commission, and he had the merit of setUng the immense ma- chine going. He was still a young man, but his exertion in behalf of humanity exhausted his strength, and when he retired he had grown old in these few years. He added this fresh merit to that by which -he distinguished himself in New York, for that city is mostly indebted to him for its world-renowned Central Park. These commissions provided the soldiers, especially the sick and wounded, not only with medicines and what was required for their necessiues or comfort, but even with superfluides and luxuries. It is true they had immense means, and could afford 70 Ten Years of my Life. to be liberal. They always gave with pleasure and witn full hands, and wherever there was' want it was not their fault, but that of those persons who were too lazy or indifferent to ask. Very often, when the provisions of the Government failed by some accident, these commissions opened their stores for the needy heaithy soldiers, and when we were in Alabama, cut off by the enemy from all communications, we were literally sup- ported by them. We had fine potted victuals of every kind coming from thousands of miles. I still remember our aston- ishment on opening in Alabama a tin box containing the most delicious asparagus, preserved in Brunswick, in Germany. The agents of these commissions did not wear fine uniforms, nor live in sumptuous quarters, nor drink claret and cham- pagne ; they did not inspect the hospitals with glass in eye, and perfumed handkerchief to nose ; though mostly gentlemen used to all the luxuries of life, they had no other thought but how best to fulfil their voluntary duty, and often I saw them with their own hands, accustomed to the finest kid-gloves, car- rying boxes and bales like common workmen. They did not do so in hope of promotion or gain, or of a decoration ; their names were scarcely known, and if known soon forgotton ; but seeing all this, I learnt to love and respect the Americans. In mentioning this I will not infer that we had no good and self-sacrificing men to assist us in our duty in the French war, and I shall do justice to them at their proper place, but not forget those gorgeous drones who were j^tigmatised by the nickname of Battle Loafers. The American people were never satisfied of having done enough, and all possible means were employed in collecting money. Great sanitary fairs were held in all great cities ; mer- chants and manufacturers sent in their gifts, some ladies their work, and other ladies attended to the sale of these articles, which were paid for extravagantly, and for weeks these fairs were crowded to excess by visitors. One fair in New York, lasting for about five weeks, brought about five millions of dollars, and comparatively small Washington contributed one million and a half The Government, in justice to this spirit, showed themselves not less liberal and careful. Though bound by duty to save as much money as was possible, it was never done at the ex- pense of the soldiers, and especially not at that of those wl)o Conveyances for the Wounded. 71 had become sick or crippled in the service of the country. There were no students or other yoang men forming voluntary companies to assist on the battle-field, as we had them in France, for, as I said before, young men were rare ; but not- withstanding this, the wounded on the battle-fields were more prompdy attended and far better cared for than was the case in the French war. Each battalion — about equal to a Prussian company — had a number of portable bedsteads or stretchers, and two conveniently and practically built ambulances ; and whenever a battle was imminent hundreds of these vehicles were brought together ready for use. The wounded were no^ thrown into rough peasant cars, and jolted to death before they reached the next hospital. Those that were in a state to be transported at all were laid in a covered ambulance, which rested on soft springs, was provided with a good mattress, a cask of water, and one of wine, and everything else which might be required. Those that had to be operated on were placed in large hospital tents, each of which had room for twelve or more persons. These tents were built upon the battle-field itself, on circumstances not permitting, as near as 5)0ssible. They v/ere airy and most convenient, and their use X has been adopted in many European armies. They are pre- ferable to any other arrangement which possibly could be made fur severely wounded men, and especially to those low, narrow, and most abominable houses to be found in small German or French villages. The luxury of cleanliness seems to be utterly unknown there, and the smell of dozens of years together, with a stratum of filth, covers the walls and ceilings, for whitewashing is never thought of Country people who live much in the air prefer the close atmosphere of a musty room as a holiday re- creation, and even in the finest weather one may see them, on Sunday afternoon, sitting close together in some country inn room enveloped in a cloud of bad tobacco- smoke. To sit warm in winter seems to be their only desire. The windows are generally as small as possible, and they scarcely think of ever opening them to let in air. The wounded, placed often on mouldy straw on the filthy or partly-rotten flooring, are as badly off as possible. In America, where there are not so many villages as in Europe, necessity compelled the sanitary authorities lo provide tor them otherwise, and this was done extremely well in spacious 72 Ten Years of iny Life. tents, which gave shelter against the rain and permitted the perfect airing so necessary to i^cople wounded or ill with typhoid fever. Though placed now and then on straw or corn husks on the ground, they generally lay on the portable bedsteads, called stretchers. In the French war we often regretted the absence of such tents. The many navigable rivers m America were also a great convenience, and o£ the greatest importance in the war. There are very few rivers in Germany or France v/hich would carry such large transport steamers as I saw in America, even on streams of which the names are scarcely known in Europe. These rivers were highly important for the transportati'^n of tT*oops and provisions, and they were so for sanitary purposes. Large steamers, such as run on the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio, Hudson, or on the Northern Lakes, were arranged as floating hospitals, offering all the conveniences of a great hotel. It is difficult to give Germans an idea of such ships, for thousands of them have never seen the sea, and think a Rhine steamer a most wonderful concern. What would they say to ships four or five hundred feet long, on which stand two-storied buildings rerching nearly from one end to the other, surrounded with verandas and balconies, containing hundreds of small bed- rooms, and halls in which three or four hundred people can sit very comfortably to dinner ? Where the shipping on such rivers is interrupted by rapids or rocks the practical Americans have built canals alongside of them, as in the case for instance with the Upper Potomac and the Suspuehjinnah, and many other rivers. What revolted m.e frequently in the French war was the manner in which the dead were treated on the battle-fields. To a philosophical mind it may seem very indifferent what is done with the cast-off coat of our soul ; it is, I think, without doubt indifferent to the dead, but the surviving are not all philosophers, and have a reverence for their dead, and not the form of their soul, but that of their body remains in their memory. It is true that the nations who^e state of civilisation is still on a very low step make the most of their dead, but civilised as the Germans may be, I do not think that it is in- different to the mothers amongst them whether the bodies of their beloved children are treated as unceremoniously as cattle. Even if it speaks unfavorably lor the civilisation of the Ameii- Embahning Establishments. 73 cans, I prefer the manner in which they treat their soldiers, who shed their blood for their country. It is true that in the American war it occurrM not rarely that the wounded had to be left behind, that they perished miserably, that the dead could not be buried at all or only in haste, so that the bodies were dug out by pigs, as I have seen happen here and there ; but such cases are not to be avoided, and are exceptions ; wherever there was a possibility, the dead were treated with respect and love. After a battle the dead were collected and their names identified by their comrades, or from letters, &c., found upon them. They did not wear badges with a number round their neck like the Prussian soldiers, which is indeed a good means' to recognise even much mutilated dead, but which was intended only to keep the military lists correct. The American soldiers were not thrown indiscriminately into one common pit ; they were buried one beside the other, and a stick with a board was fixed at the head end, on which was written the name. State, and regiment of the soldier. These tablets were respected by everybody, and I have seen them a year and longer after a battle. They made it easy for the parents to find the bodies of their beloved, and give them' at home a decent grave. Oh, how many fathers have I met on such an errand ! Only the love of the Americans for their departed made such institutions possible as were established in the neighbour- hood of great camps. Whoever thought in the German army of an embalming establishment? They were, however, not exceptional in Arherica, and nobody seemed surprised on see- ing near a large tent a signboard with the firm ' Messrs. Brown and Alexander, Embalmers to the Government.' The business they did was very extensive, they embalmed thousands — pri- vates for thirty dollars, and officers for eighty. The embalmed bodies were placed in long boxes lined with zinc, on the lid of which was written the full name of the dead, and the address of his parents. In the box, at the si.^e of the dead, were placed the papers and other thmgs found upon him or known to belong to him. Many of these boxes were to be seen on all trains or transport ships. But not only private piety was at work. Those who had no rich parents to pay for embalming, or relatives who cared to have the body home, were not forgotten either. The noble 74 Ten Years of my Life. Governirient of that noble nation paid the last debt of respect to their dead. I think the idea came directly from good President Lincoln, a man than whom none better could be found in the world. The dead were carefully collected from all batde-fields, and carried often long distances to public grave- yards, established in different parts of the country. These graveyards are large beautiful gardens, kept up most carefully at the expense of the Government. They are surrounded with walls, provided with gates and good buildings for the superintendent and gardeners, and with a finely-decorated memorial hall. The graves of the soldiers are placed in rows, and at the head of each stands a gravestone, on which is inscribed each man's name, State, regiment, and company, together with the place where the brave soldier died for his country, and underneath is written always an appropriate sen- tence or verse of the Bible. Of such graveyards several are to be seen near Washington, and on the confiscated estate of the rebel General Lee, Arlington Height, which has been allotted for this purpose, rest nearly one hundred thousand dead soldiers ! Thus America knows her citizens who died for the Union. Hospitals were, of course, near all cities, and the most ex- tensive were in the neighbourhood of Washington. The public hospitals in Washington were not sufficient, and between that city and the President's summer residence, called ' Soldier's Home,' was to be seen a whole city of neat barracks, which differed very much from many of the would-be imitations I have seen in Germany. This city of the sick and wounded, though standing in a nearly treeless plain, had not the appearance of a vale of sor- row, but made a rather cheerful impression. There were tents and houses built of wood, forming a rather extensive town with wide streets. The tents, which were still preferred for certain classes of patients, were arranged still more comforta- bly than those in the field, which provided only for the most urgent necessities ; they were half tents, half houses, having all the advantages of the tents -without their inconveniences, for they were not passtv^ere structures like field-tents, which might have to be packed up for transport at a moment's notice. I have seen such so-called tents in the Holy Ghost Hospital in Frankfort, in which the essential conditions are ail to be Model Hospitals. 75 found 111 combination with an elegance and comfort which not only shows that that hospital is richly endowed, but that it is conducted by men who combine knowledge witti real love for the suffering. They form indeed a pattern which deserves to be imitated everywhere, as does the whole magnificent hospital. The wooden houses were not very large, and none of them contained a great number of wounded. They stood on posts, and their' flooring was raised one foot and a half or two feet above the ground, leaving space enough underneath to keep out the wet of the earth, and to permjt the air to circulate without producing a draught, which would have been the case if they had been more elevated. They were all whitewashed and provided with windows, and gave the impression of little friendly country cottages. Their interior corresponded with their outside. There was not the chilling, half-barrack, half house-of-correction-like appearance, which struck one not rarely on entering such places in Europe, especially if built under the direction of the military authorities. Though they were kept scrupulously clean, and everything went on with military regularity and order, it was not^exaggerated into pedantry. The wards looked cheerful, and rnade an agreeable impression on the minds of the wounded or sick, who all lay on beds provided with white light hangings (mosquito nets), protecting them against the importunity of the flies. The ventilation was perfect, and so was the heating in cold weather. In these places the soldiers lelt comfortable and home-like. In a hot climate like that of Washington, where the ther- mometer shows in summer not rarely roo degrees Fahrenheit in the shade, strict cleanliness is most necessary, and the greatest attention was paid to it. The wards were whitewashed every four or six weeks, and the dust taken up from the floor every day. It was not done by swamping the floor with cold water and permitting the wet to enter the boards, by which, especially in cold or rainy weather, a chilly and damp air is produced, but the washing of the boards was done in a more practical manner with hot water, which dried almost immedi- ately after the cloth had passed over it. Lady nurses were not employed in these hospitals, and I must confess that they were not much missed by the American soldiers, who generally preferred to be attended by men, 7G Ten Years of my Life. mostly convalescent comrades, who fulfilled their duties in an excellent manner. The Americans are a very intellioent nation, and I frequently wondered at the ease with which they adapted themselves to all kinds of occupations. This may he noticed throughout the whole country, and in all branches. Young men, who have attended, perhaps for years, a shop, are made Government clerks in the Treasury, or the Interior Department, or War Office, and after a few weeks they under- stand their duties quite as well as men in Germany who have visited for six years a college, studied as long at some univer- sity, and served for as many years without pay in some public office before being thought fit to occupy the place of an aus- cultator or assessor. The proof of this is that affairs in the Ministries at Vv'ashington are carried on quite as well and regularly as in any office in Gerraan}^ An tntploye in Germany who loses his place considers himself, in most cases, ruined tor life, whilst an American Government employe in such a case — which, in fact, occurs very frequently — thinks very little of it, and looks out at once for some other occupation. No- body is tied tor ever to a. certain trade or branch ; in this respect Americans are very versatile. Rough as the men sometimes appeared, I found them to become soon very good and careful nurses, and I preferred them greatly to the coarse and selfish women I saw sometimes employed in Gernian hospitals. I know very well that good discipline is most es?jential for an army, but in reference to hospitals it often acquired in Germany the character of pedantry. Though military sur- geqns stood in America under the command of their colonels or generals, they were far more independent in their province, and were not annoyed or harassed by martinets, v/ho wanted to enforce the strictness of the drill-ground even in the sick loom. Nor were there high-born snobs interfering with the cioctors, always hindering them by their pretentious ignorance. ]5attle-loafers were a species- of bipeds not known in America. There did not exist any object for them. If men did not find a reward for their voluntary activity in themselves, they did not find it anywhere else. It was of no consequence whether it was favourably noticed by some generals, or senators, or the President himself; they could not give them sinecures for life, or a place at court, nor even a decoration, for all these things do not exist in that country. Travelling to Nashville. 77 The principal causes why the sanitary institutions of Ame- rica were so good and effective are — the practical good sense of the people, the wealth and the liberality of both the people and the Government, the fact that military, principles do not rank there before those of humanity, and the absence of all objects al'uring flunkeyism. The 68th Regiment N.Y.Y. consisted now of nearly one thousand men, and on the 8th of June, i864, Salm was ap- pointed to the regiment in Nashville, Tennessee, belonging to the army of General Sherman. - In July I travelled to Nashville, accompanied only by my maid and Jimmy my dog, who had become my inseparable companion, 1 did not find my husband, for his regiment had marched souih to Alabama, and it was not possible to join him, though I tried everything for that purpose. The country between Nashville and the Tennessee river was in a very inse- cure state, bands of guerillas making raids everywhere, and destroying the railroad. I had therefore to wait patiently, and not liking to live in an hotel in the much-crowded Nashville, I found lodging and board in a nice family living in a neigh- bouring village, where General Charles Schurz had his head- quarters. Salm managed to pay me an eight days' visit at Nasliville, riding all the way on horseback, and not minding the dangers of the road. I wanted to run the risk and accompany him back on horseback also, but he would not hear of it, and I suppose he was right. The guerillas were very ferocious, and I really believe that my being a lady woulpl not have protected me against their outrage?. Salm desired me to return to Washington until he should send me word to come, and a short time after he had left •Nashville I started for the capital of the Union. 78 CI-I AFTER Xr. Madame von Corvin and I travel from Wasliington to Bridgeport, Ala- bama— American railroads — Pittsburg — Meeting Charles Schurz — How he was received there — I-ouisville, Kentucky — Nashville, Tenn. — The St. Cloud Hotel — Travelling with a military train — Why I stop the train — Arrival in Bridgeport — The camp on the Tennessee island — The hospital — Traffic with the rebels — Salt serving instead of money — Neigh- bours— Expecting a rebel surprise — Bridgeport — Colonel Taylor — Rev. Gilford and family —Dangerous roads — Fort Prince Salm — Life on the island —Excursion to Chattanooga — Major-Ceneral J. Steedman — The Match-bridge at Wliiteside — Lookout Mountain — Fighting Joe's rock — The rebels advancing — Salm leaving the island alone — Cut off from Nashville by General Hood — How we passed our time — Visits received and paid — Generals Brannon and Granger — Rather dangerous — Plea- sure trips to Stevenson — Victories — The 68th Regiment leaving the island — The deserted camp — Dangerous position — ^Nightly disturbances — Meeting Salm and Steedman in Stevenson after the victorious battles — Christmas in Alabama — We leave all for Nashville — Colonel and Madame von Corvin return to Washington, and I go with Salm to Bridgeport — He is commander of the post — His raids against the rebels — His staff — Captain Johnson and his wife, my sister, arrive — Difficul- ties in reference to promotion — To remove these I am sent to Wash- ington. Travelling alone was in those times, for a young lady, neither very easy nor safe. I was therefore very much pleased when Mrs. Corvin accepted my proposition to accompany me to Bridgeport, Alabama, where Salm's regiment was encamped on an island formed by the Tennessee river. We left Washington on the evening of October i, and had the good hick to secure a state-room in a sleeping car. These sleeping cars are an American peculiarity which I would wish much to see introduced in Europe. The sleeping cars are not wider than the usual travelling cars. On both sjide^? of tbp wav American Railroads. 79 in the middle the seats are constructed in such a manner as to be transformed for the night into tiers of beds, each provided with curtains, and at least as convenient as those in an Atlan- tic steamer. At the end of every car is a room with looking- glass and toilet accommodations. In each car are four or six so-called state-rooms, which deserve that name as much or little as the narrow boxes so named in ships. These state- rooms contain in the daytime four seats, and are separated from the middle way by a large door. At night-time the beds are arranged with wonderful celerity, and blankets, sheets, and pil- lows emerge from the most unexpected hiding-places. The state-rooms have sleeping accommodation for four persons, the lowest bed on the floor having room for two persons. For travelling families these state-rooms are a great convenience, and they are not expensive either, costing for a night only four or five dollars above the usual fare. Whoever has tossed about a night in a railroad car and remembers his feelings in the morning will understand how to appreciate these sleeping cars, strange as they may appear at first sight, especially to persons who never have been on board an Atlantic steamer. I was used to travelling in America, and acquainted with all those things which astonished Mrs. Corvin, who was now for the first time in that country. The woods which we saw on our way commenced to show here and there those brilliant tints which are a peculiarity of American foilage in the fall. Bright yellow and burning red are prominent, and a European artist who should paint such a wood would be accused of exaggeration, and lose all his credit. Railroads in Europe seem to be considered a kind of luxury. In the commencement not so much importance was ascribed to them in America as they have acquired of late ; they were chiefly valued as means of connection between the water courses, which were principally used for the transportation of goods. Though these ideas have experienced a change, rail- roads are still in America only roads, and to create them as fast as possible and put them in working order is the principal object. It only the rails are properly laid and the rolling-stock in good order, everything else is of little consequence. There- fore w^e do not see in America depots as we see them in Kurope, costing milHons ; not rarely a simple shed, offering 80 Ten Yeans of my Life. sl-.elter for passengers and goods, is thought sufficient.^ The building" of magnificent bridges absorbs also vast sums in Europe ; in America they are mostly built in the most simple manner, but answer their purpose as well as the most expensive structures. Bridges are in existence which lead over several miles of wide waters, consisting simply of two rows of solid poles on which beams are laid for the rails. Banisters are not to be seen on such bridges, for they are not of the slightest use ; and looking out of the window of a car one sees neither the rails nor the poles on which they rest, and the train seems to be gliding right over the surface of the water. At breakfast-time on Sunday morning we arrived in Altona, Permsylvania, v.iiere we had the pleasure of meeting Major- General Charles Schurz, who remained our travelling compan- ion until we reached Pittsburg, where he was expected to make a speech in favour of the re-election of President Lincoln. He was received at the depot by a deputation, and the hotel where be alighted and ]:!rocur£d rooms for us was dressed out with garlands.2 In the evening he made a great speech before an immense crowd, who cheered him lustily. After this great exertion he remained more than an hour with us, entertaining us with playing on the piano, which he did in a masterly man- ner. The train went, leaving only at two o'clock, p.m. We had time enough for a run through Pittsburg. It is a peculiar city, resembling an immense forge — everywhere high chimneys topped with clouds of dark and dense smoke. The view from the splendid chain-bridge along the river is interesting ; for huge steamers, resembling immense floating houses, over- topped by the turret on which is placed the helmsman, dart to and fro. ' Mrs. Corvin said that the appearance of Pittsburg reminded her of Manchester in England. On INIonday morning we arrived in Cincinnati, a fine city, which we saw, however, only when crossing it in an opnibus. All foreigners visiting America for the first time are amazed at I The reader will remember that I am speaking of tlyrteen years ago. Now I hear things have changed much, and tlaey have in America depots and bridges surpassing any built in Europe, even in architectural splendour. A sovereign in Europe could not be received with more pomp and ceremony than was this renowned ci^i5'.en in Pittsburg. Narrovj Esc(qie. 81 i.lie monster steam ferries, with which I was, however, famiHar from New York. Mrs. Corvin was quite in ecstasies about them, and they are indeed very remarkable vessels. To the right and left are extensive halls for an immense number of passengers, with all the accommodations of a ship, only on a larger scale, and between these passenger-halls is a free space large enough for several omnibuses. The whole immense structure is overtowered by an open kind of steeple, crowned with an immense gilt eagle or Columbia, or Goddess of Liberty. There is placed the conductor of the vessel at the wheel, his elevated position permitting him to overlook the whole ferry and everything before him. Louisville^ the capital of Kentucky, where we arrived in the afternoon, is a lovely city. The streets are wide,* and before the houses are neat gardens, most of which are laid out taste- fully, and ornamented with all the vegetal luxury favoured by a mild climate, permitting pomegranate trees to grow and bear fruit in the open air. We left Louisville next morning at six o'clock. The rail- road passes through a very fine and romantic country, some- times up steep hil'.s, two locomotives dragging the train with great difficulty. The tints of autumn made the woods appear quite gorgeous, the sun heightening the orange and red to ut- most brilliancy. To the right and left we saw whole fields covered with tall blooming thistles, and between their fine red flowers were sparkling others of a brilliant yellow. At other places the ground-*was covered with white flowers so densely that it seemed like snow. We had a narrow escape, for an hour after we had passed one of the stations the rebels stopped the train which we had met on our road, and burnt it. Nashville, the capital of the State of Tennessee, very romantically situated on the deep and swift Cumberland river, and a pleasant town, looked rather dismal on our arrival, for it rained as hard as possible. The St. Cloud Hotel was crammed wnih. officers, and we were the only ladies in it. I had been there before, and was known by the landlord, who managed to procure a room for us. The whole hotel, which in time of peace might have been nice and com- fortable, was in the utmost disorder, and disgustingly dirty. There was nothing that could detain us in Nashville, but it was not so easv to leave it. Trains were going now and then 82 Ten Years of my Life, south to Stevenson and Bridgeport, but the road was full oi danger, 'Guerillas were scourmg the country, and the most appaling reports about their cruelty were circulated. The war had assumed a quite unusual ferocity ; the Southern people were exasperated, and prisoners who fell into the hands of the guerillas were mutilated and murdered in the most atrocious manner. We were however, resolved to nm the risk, and after having procured a pass, which was rather difiicult, we went to the depot next afternoon, when a military .train was to leave. We were fortunate enough to meet a captain who had been presented to me in the hotel, and wis on his way to Chat- tanooga. With his assistance we found a good place, and con- gratulating ourselves on our good luck, we made ourselves quite comfortable, when we were turned out by the guard, who cried, ' Women must get out,' and would not listen to reason. Standing amongst a crowd of soldiers and lamenting women, who had been turned out like ourselves, we had little hope of finding a place, when I fortunately discovered some ofhcers who knew me, and smuggled us into the last of the cars, where we were seated on a narrow wooden bench, the only women in the train. It was the most fatiguing and disagreeable journey I ever made, for we had to remain full twenty-four hours in that situation. The weather was very disagreeable, and we felt faint with hunger, having nothing with us but a little cake. In the evening the captain, who was on his way to Chattanoogaj brought us some coffee, which was accepted very thankfully. Our journey was rather exciting, for the conversation turned only on the outrages the rebels had committed quite recently in localities which we passed, and we had to pass frequently through dense woods or near overhanging rocks, where guerillas might be concealed, meditating our destruction. The train stopped frequently without cause, and what we saw from the windows was not calculated to calm our apprehensions. Every- where up the road-side were half destroyed cars or locomotives lying on their backs, or burnt-down houses. We became, how- ever, soon used to this state of aiTairs, and I managed to sleep. I was aroused by Mrs Corvin with the distressing news that my Jimmy had jumped off the train. That v;as a calamity worse than the rebels. Our carriage was the last, and irom its plat- form I saw along the road and at a great distance a dark point moving ; it was poor Jmimy, striving in vam to come up with Bridgeport, Tennessee. 83 the train. The ring to which the cord is attached, running above all the cars to the locomotive, hung temptingly right over my head, and knowing the use of the cord I pulled at it lustily. The train stopped, and the captain who was in com- mand ran anxiously to ask what accident had happened. On hearing it he was inclined to be angry, but seeing my distress, and probable being a lover of dogs himself he relaxed ; the train stopped until my pet arrived panting from such an un- usual exertion, and amid the good-natured laughter of the soldiers the dear deserter was restored to me. We arrived at last at Bridgeport station, which was about a mile and a half from Salm's camp. Tlie soldiers of the port, on hearing my name, procured at once an ambulance, and at the same time a breakfast, which we needed very much. We arrived soon in the camp, and I was happy to be again with my dear husband. The regiment was encamped on an island in the noble Tennessee river. The railroad going to Chattanooga crosses this island by means of two bridges. That next to l>ridgej)ort is a remarkable structure. The banks on both sides are hidi, and connected with beams on which run the rails, and about thirty feet below is the rather long bridge for horse cars. The island was not large, but contained two or three farms, and was mostly covered with beaudful trees, enlivened by a great variety of pretty birds. The ground being rather liat, the island was not rarely overflown by the river, and large tracts of the wood were always under v\^ater. In rainy weather it was by no means pleasant, but when the sun was shining a more delightful place could scarcely be found anywhere. Right opposite the camp, on the southern bank of the river, some dis,- tance off, rose a rather high wooded ridge, the slopes of which were always haunted by rebels, who thence could look right into our camp. This camp was extended on a meadow not far from the northern bank of the river, and was skirted by the wood. It was not laid out with much regularity, on account of the con- dition of the ground, and looked quite romantic. As it was expected that we would remain there a good while, the soldiers had made themselves as comfortable as possible. There was plenty of wood and a saw-mill in Bridgeport ; boards were therefore not v/anting, and many shanties rose amongst the 84 Ten Years of my Life. tents, serving either as bureaus or as quarters for officers. At a beautiful place from which th"e camp could be overlooked, Salm had built quite a stately building. It was about thirty feet long, stood somewhat above the ground on poles, like a sanitary barrack, had in front a verandah, and contained three compartments. The largest was our saloon, and to its right and left were two smaller apartments, one serving as a bed- room for me and Salm, and the other for Madame von Corvin. The saloon had in front a glass door and two windows, and contained also a fireplace of rather primitive construction, for when it rained hard the fire was frequently extinguished by it. The building had scarcely been finished when we arrived, and the weather having been very bad during its construction, it was still extremely damp. Behind our palace was built a kitchen, and near to it was put up a large tent, which served as an officers' mess-room. Farther back amongst the trees were some buildings for the commissariat, and a barrack serv- ing as an hospital. To visit this hospital was one of the first things I did. I found it in a very miserable state, for the doctor whom my husband found on his recent arrival with his regiment, was a rather careless man, and thought more of his own comfort and profit than of that of his patients. The steward and nurses were not better, and it was found that ihey frequently appro-, priated the good things furnished for the sick. These were, of course, not wanting in a locality such as described, most of them suffering from ague or malignant fevers. I was indignant at this state of affaiis, and at once took care to remedy it. The next thing to be done was to procure warm clothes, blan- kets, &c., and also wholesome food for the patients, of whom I had those who needed it most transferred to the larger hos- pital in Bridgeport. In that place I found agents of the Chris- tian Commission, and on applying to them I was at once provided with a good supply of clothes and eatables, which were the more valuable as the provisions for the soldiers had at that time run very short. The war had exhausted the coun- try ; cattle were extremely rare, and fresh meat was not to be had at all The soldiers had to be satisfied with salt, pork and hard tack, for bread was not to be had either. The officers , were not much better off, for in the commencement the inhabi- ^ tants of the country were very shy, and did not like to come' ^alt instead of Money. 85 near our camp in order to sell their chickens or butter. S ilm dined with his officers, and if some fish, bird, or fresh butcher's meat had been procured, it was reserved for our dinner. It was a fortunate circumstance that we had plenty of salt, for we could procure as much as we liked above our allowance from the commissariat at Bridgeport for about two cents a pound, and that salt was the article most desired by the rebels around, for they required it very much for their pork, especi- ally^ in warm weather. Before our arrival salt had been sold at one dollar a pound. The news that we had a surplus of this precious article spread, and very soon we saw many rebel women arrive who were eager to exchange their produce for salt. Though they charged exorbitant prices we did not mind it raucli, as we could charge for our salt more than what we paid for it, and still they found it extremely cheap. These poor rebel families came frequently from a distance of ten or twenty miles in search of salt. They were generally on horseback, riding miserable animals, as all good horses had been taken for the army. These poor peopPe looked very un- happy, and though we knew well enough that their feelings towards iis were far from being friendly, we could not help pitying them : they were pale and thin, and covered only with rags. Even women who were still well-oft" and ladies, appeared in the most wonderful costumes, for the supplies of goods from the Northern manufactories had not arrived since 'the com- mencement of the war. Those looked best who wore homespun clothes. One could not see anything more melancholy than such a Southern family in our camp. They felt humiliated that necessity compelled them to apply to us, and we never heard one laugh, nor even saw them smile. They all behaved, how- ever, with a certain dignity which did not fail to produce a favourable effect on our soldiers, who generally treated them with kindness. Not far froiji our camp a man, of the name of Hill, had a good farm, but as Mrs. Hill had made herself suspicious by saving her brother from the rebel recruiting officer, their house had been destroyed, and the whole family, consisting of six or eight persons, lived in a one-roomed, most miserable log-house, which scarcely afforded any protection agamst the inclemency of the weather. They had, however, succeeded in preserving a few horses and cows, and Mrs. Hill, a rather pretty and 88 Ten Years of r,iy Life. merry yoimg woman, sold ys with pleasure some welcome milk. There lived in the neighbourhood a few farmer-families, who submitted to circumstances, and entertained a more iriendly intercourse with our officers. We sometimes paid them visits, which were not without danger, and had to be made always in company and under arms. Guerillas were lurking about in the woods, and it happened not rarely that single soldiers were caught or even killed by them. Orders had been given to act with great severity against such houses as were reputed to serve rebels as a shelter, though it was only natural that the guerillas now and then ventured to visit their families. Salm had to burn down several rebel houses, though he did so with great reluctance. The inhabit- ants of these houses were, however, rarely to be found at home ; they had their spies, and were generally warned beforehand. In one of such doomed houses was found onlv a rather fat pointer, which was taken prisoner and appropriated by Salm, who christened him Gerber, which was the name of his rebel master. . •• Our position was much exposed and full of danger. The island and the bridges were well guarded, but there existed fords which were better known to the rebels than to us, and if there had been an able leader amongst them they might have surprised us without much difficulty, as they from their moun- tains could observe everything w^e did on the island. Betbre assistance could have arrived even from Bridgeport they might have killed us all, and a few thousand men might even have taken that place, notwithstanding its fort, before succour could come up from Stevenson, about ten miles off, where a great number of troops were assembled. The pontoon bridge laid over the Tennessee for araiy pur- poses was guarded by a picket, and protected by two good blockhouses provided w^ith guns ; and on the southern side of the river, on a commanding eminence, was built a fort called Fort Prince Salm. Though it was considered to be rather strong, it was overtopped by neighbouring hills very favourably situated for rebel batteries. Under these circumstances, it \vas not to be wondered at that frequently reports about intended attacks were circulated in the camp, and that arrangements were made in case of a Excursions in the Woods. 87 surprise. We were to fly at once lo the blockhouse, com- manded by Captain von der Groeben, which was about a gun- shot from our quarters. These alarming reports were sometimes so positive that they somewhat interfered with our sleep. Bridgeport, situated on the high northern bank of the Ten- nessee, consisted originally of only a few houses and a saw- mill standing near the river ; but in war time it had become much enlarged by a spacious field hospital and many other military wooden buildings, mostly serving as magazines for the provisions and as dwelhngs for the officers, connected with the commissariat. In a house on the highest point the commander of the post. Colonel Taylor, commanding a Kentucky regi- ment, had estabUshed his head-quarters. The only family unconnected with the troops living at Bridgeport, was that of a clergyman of the name of Gilford. Their dwelling-house stood on the top of the before-mentionetl ridge, but being there right in the midst of the rebels, and not feeling safe amongst them on account of his Union tendencies, he had left there and was living now in a wooden house, which he had made rather comfortable with the furniture carried over from his dwelling on the hill. His wife and grown-up daugh- ters were very agreeable persons, and we passed with them many pleasant evenings. They were, however, not the only ladies in Bridgeport, for a Captain Armstrong, of the commis- sariat, had his wife with him, and two other ladies were attached to the Christian Commission, Though Bridgeport was not far from our camp, a visit, and especially our return home, was not without danger. Roads scarcely existed, for what might have been called so had been changed by the heavy rains into an unfathomable quagmire. We had therefore to drive always over firmer ground ; but not- withstanding its being made dangerous by the many stumps of trees projecting, we had never an accident, though our heads were frequently knocked against each other. The most dan- gerous part ot the road was, however, the descent to the bridge, and I still wonder that we never rolled down into the river. We had frequent visits also, attempted even to give dinners, and in the evenmg we had generally company. We played a rubber of whiSt, and Groeben brewed a very acceptable egg- nog or punch, for the wine furnished by our sutler, though 88 Ten Years of my Life. cliarged three dollars a bottle and provided with flourishing labels, was a miserable comp''xmd. The weather had become extremely fine, and we made many parties on horseback and in carriages. The rebels kept quiet, and none of our apprehensions were fulfilled. Now in fine weather the sojourn on the island was highly agreeable. We w^ere nearly all day in the fresh air and walk- ing in the woods, which were made lively by a great variety of birds v.'ith brilliant plumage. There were some small scarlet birds, which looked in the sun like a ball of fire ; others were beautifully blue arid very tame. I noticed also several fine varieties of woodpeckers, one with a billiant yellow tail tipped with black, and another light grey with a crimson head. There were also partridges on the island and wild pigeons, affording good sport and an occasional addition to our bill of fare. The jDeadow in front of our camp swarmed with a kind of plover, called, from its cry, a killedie, v»-hich cost my husband a good deal of shot — rather an object, as he had to pay for it at the rate of a dollar a pound. We received now and then visits from the generals stationed at Stevenson or Chattanooga. On Sunday, October 23, Major- General Steedman dined with us, and invited us to come and see him in Chattanooga. Our party, consisting of Mrs. Cor- vin, Salm, Groeben, and myself, started on the Thursday fol- lowing for this excursion. The accommodation in the train was very imperfect. We sat in a transport waggon, the ladies on bottomless chairs and the gentlemen on some boxes. The road to Chattanooga is very romantic, leading through a fine but rather wild-looking mountainous country, and over bridges which make me still shudder in thinking of them. The rebels had destroyed the good and solid ones, and they had provi- sionally been replaced by others, built in the greatest haste by the soldiers. There was especially one, known under the name of the Match-bridge, which surpassed anything I ever saw or heard of It crossed a deep and wide gorge, and was built of wood — trellis work — several hundred feet high, in three stories. When the train passed over it the whole flimsy iabric swayed in the most alarming manner. There were to be seen here and there small houses in the midst of a natch of cuUivated land. The fields were all fallow General Steedman. 89 for want of hands, many of the poor houses empty, and only in some of them lived some wretched-looking aged men or women, who scarcely sustained life, having been cut off from the rest of the world for many long months. The trains were only used for military purposes, and where passengers were admitted they had to secure passports, which were not easily to be had. We required some eight hours to reach Chattanoga, where we arrived at eight o'clock in the evening, where we were received by General Steedman, with whom we remained together in the hotel until clear. * General Steedman had been born in Canada. He was a man of about fifty years, tall, with an agreeable, open, bold- looking face. He had become an orphan when still very young, and gone as such through a great deal of hardship, which made him feel very kind whenever he met children in a similar position. He was in general a kind and soft-hearted man, who liked to hide his weakness under an assumed roughness, in which, however, he was not very successful. When still a youth he had taken part in some revolutionary movement in his country, which made him remove to the United States, where he studied law, became an influential politician, and was even elected a senator. When the war commenced he made up a regiment, and was major-general before we in the East had heard anything of his military exploits. He was, however, a practical man, and had studied war with great advantage, and whenever he had an opportunity he behaved not only with great courage and energy, but also very judiciously from a military point of view. On Friday, 26th October, at nine o'clock, our party was ready for an excursion to Lookout Mountain. Madame von Corvin and old Groeben were in an ambulance, all the rest on horseback. We were waiting for General Steedman, when he sent a message, excusing himself on the ground of a bad cold and important business. General Sherman having telegraphed him orders to send off troops for the reinforcement of those stationed at Decatur. Colonel Moy, the general's first aide, went however with us, acting as a guide. The weather was wonderful, and the sky without a cloud. We passed through part of the camp. Everywhere we saw destroyed houses, and round them assembled herds of oxen and mules, which latter did such excellent service in that war. 90 Ten Years of my Life. They followed the army in droves of several hundreds, guided by men on horseback, whose skill was remarkable. It was a pleasure to look at these mules, with their fine deer-like limbs. Thev endure as much and more than horses, and are far more frugal, keeping in good condition with food which would dis- able their more pretentious half-brothers. Lookout Mountain is an enormous rock, rising like a citadel from the valley of the Lookout Creek, and from it one has a view over Chattanooga and all the wide surrounding country. It had been used as a signal station, and after the battle of Chicamauga it was thought necessary to attack this formidable position, which interfered with the connection of General Grant's advancing army. The honourable but difficult task of storming that rock fell on ' Fighting Joe.' He attacked it on the 24th November, 1863, with ten thousand men, and though the rebels were protected by breastworks, and assisted by a dense fog enveloping the high summit, they were driven down the eastern slopes. The fog preventing Hooker from following them into the valley, he remained on the top of his stormed citidel, and the thunder of his guns proclaimed his glorious victory ' above the clouds,' as poetical reporters said. I must not speak of the succession of battles around Chattanooga, which terminated the campaign in that district in 1863, lost the rebel General Bragg his place, and relieved General Burn- side, who was in a rather awkward position in Knoxville. The slopes of the mountain ridge are covered with timber, which on a fine day shone in all the brilliancy of the American fall, most agreeably contrasting with the soft blue of the far- distant landscape. After a quarter of a hour's ride we arrived at the foot of the steep mountain, two thousand six hundred feet high. The soldiers had, v/ith a great deal of labour, made a road leading to the top. Many rocks had to be removed, trees to be felled, and the road to be carried in zigzag to the long stretched top, ending with Lookout rock, which falls off nearly perpendicularly. The platform on the highest part was wide enough for our small company, and we looked with delight on the beautiful landscape at our feet.^ During the French war I ot'ten regretted the absence of photographers, who generally arrived too late, when the scenes had already much changed. In America they were alwa)'s on the spot, and we owe them many views taken immediately Hospitals around Chattanooga. 91 after a battle. Yankee industry is never asleep. There, on Lookout rock, we found of course also a photographer, who photographed groups of visitors and sold views taken from the rock. I still have one representing that rock itself, with General Hooker sitting on it. After havinof feasted our eves to our hearts' content, we selected a most beautiful spot, and lay down on the moss to enjoy the exquisite breakfast which General Steedman had sent up, together with a good supply of champagne, which made us all very merry. We returned to Chattanooga at seven o'clock p.m., and found a great company assembled at our hotel, 6ut retired early. " J hough amusing myself as well as I could, I did not forget our sick people in the hospital, and next morning Mrs. Corvin and myself paid a visit to the Sanitary Commission, from whom we received a great quantity of highly acceptable things. Though the hospitals around Chattanooga, which were mostly on the healthier hill-side, required a good deal, the pro- visions of the Commission seemed inexhausiible, and they never grew tired of giving with full hands. Having attended' to this duty, we paid General Steedman a farewell visit and took lunch with him, after which we said good-bye to him and returned to the hotel, where several of the generals were presented to us. They were all rather busy, for we saw five thousand men passing our window on their way to the railroad ; they were the reinforcements for Decatur. We left Chattanooga at four o'clock p.m., and arrived in Bridgeport without accident. Bad weather set in, and the ground around our house became very soft. We felt rather chilly, for the wet damped our clothes and beds, and warm punch in the evening was very acceptable. "We had always a few guests, and the commander of the port, Colonel Taylor, came frequently, and we had a rubber. On Sunday v/e went to church in Bridgeport and heard rather pro.sy sermons, and oh the other days we had enough to do with our hospital, which had already assumed quite a different aspect. Towards the end of November news was received of the in judicious move of the rebel General Hood, who wanted to at- tack Tennessee, and perhaps Kentucky and Ohio, in order to compel General Sherman to give up his dangerous plans. ThiS 92 Ten Years of my Life. most able general had, in September, conquered Atlanta (Georgia), and was preparing for his bold march across the heart of the enemy's country towards Savannah, Georgia. Preparations were made to meet General Hood, and as it was likely that he would try to take Bridgeport, we expected every moment to be attacked by his army. Believing, however, the position too strong, and fearing delay, he crossed the Tennes- see at some other place and advanced against Nashville. Gene- ral Steedman received therefore orders to join with his troops General Thomas in that city, and to leave only a few troops to protect the principal points between Stevenson and Chatta- nooga. Salm was very eager to take part in the expected bat- tles, and on his request General Steedman detailed him on his staft'. The general telegraphed that he would arrive in the afternoon ; Salm made himself ready, and we waited for the arrival of the troops in Colonel Taylor's quarters, where we whiled away the time with eating, and drinking Catawba cham- pagne, for the trains kept us waiting until eleven o'clock p. m. The general, who had eleven trains with him crammed with troops, was sitting with his staff in an empty baggage waggon on trunks and boxes. We had expected that his troops would make the road to Nashville free, and intended to depart for Washington a few days later. We therefore were by no means agreeably surprised on hearing from the general that the train which he brought with him was the last running, and that we would have to wait in Bridgeport until General Hood was beaten. With the beginning of December frost set in, which impeded somewhat the military operations, and delayed the decision until the middle of the month. The frost was of unusual severity for these latitudes, and though the weather was fine ii was cold, and we might even have skated on the ponds of the island if we had been able to procure skates. During this state of suspense, and whilst Hood was besieg- ing General Thomas in the tolerably well-fortified city of Nashville, we passed our time as agreeably as possible. 'We received now and then visits from the generals left in Chatta- nooga and Stevenson, and, amongst others, from the Generals Brannon and Granger, whom we entertained as well as we could, and whom Corvin and Groeben astonished by the won- derful punch which they brewed from conimissariat whisky, Glorious Xeius. 93 with the help of lemon-peel, preserved pine-apples, Vanilla essence, and sugar. General Granger invited us to interrupt the monotony of our life by visits to Stevenson, which were not v/ithout danger, and perhaps for that reason more tempting. Whenever we wanted to make such an excursion, I telegraphed to my old friend General Meagher, commanding then in Chattanooga, to send me a locomotive, which he never failed to do, in spite of the L^rumbling of the officers in charge of the railroad department. I le generally sent only a locomotive with a so-called ' caboose ' attached, and perhaps one transport waggon. Stevenson was only ten miles distant, but the road passed through the woods, which were always haui\ted by guerillas, who were more lively at that time than ever. We took, therefore, the precaution of taking with us ten or twelve soldiers, who were placed on the top of the waggon, and who, with their guns ready, watched die woods as we passed them. Such a trip was always exci- ting, for we could never be sure whether we would not meet svith some wild running locomotive or get off the rails, for the ' oad was in a fearful condition, and our train rattled along like a horse-waggon on a corduroy road. The movement became sometimes so violent that the iron cooking-pots in the caboose were thrown out of their holes in the stove. We had, however, no accident, and amused ourselves much in Stevenson, thanks to General Granger, who treated us with the fine music of his bands and most exquisite dinners, for the General was a km- vivant. Stevenson itself is an insignificant place, stretching along a most dreary bare hill, but which looked then quite grand, on account of the great number of military wood buildings.. ^ From the army we heard only vague reports, but they were so contradictory, that we did not believe in any. At last, on the 1 8th of December, news arrived of great victories achieved by our army, which was said to have taken forty or fifty guns. Hood's army was reported as being in full retreat, and we expected them every moment to appear before Bridgeport. Tv\'o gunboats arrived for the protection of our island, and Colonels Tavlor and Corvin werebusv with strenCTthenin? Bridge- * port as much as possible and in disposing of the few troops left in that place. The glorious news was confirmed ; General Thomas had 94* ^ Ten Years of my Life. beaten Hood, on the 15th and i6lh, in two great battles near Nashville, and captured fift}^ guns and about five thousand prisoners. At the same time, the 68th Regiment received orders to march to Stevenson, and wait their for their colonel and General Steedman. This order of course produced great excitement, fot the regiment had been on the island about nine months, and everything the soldiers had arranged for their comfort had to be left behind, but General Steedman promised to remove all necessary things to Whiteside, where the regi- ment was to be stationed afterwards. The detachments from Fort Prince Salm, Whiteside, and Shellmound had to be recalled, and it was rather late in the afternoon before all was read} . We prepared a farewell colla- tion for our officers, and saw them off with regret, and not without apprehension, for in Bridgeport remained only a very small force, and on our island, except the sick, not more than twenty men as a guard for the stores. The gunboats had dis- appeared also, and we were indeed at the mercy of any strag- gling rebel party that might take it into their heads to pay us a visit. The empty camp offered a very cheerless aspect the day afterwards, and the more so on account of the rain which poured down in torrents. Masterless dogs and cats prowled about the empty shanties, and we felt extremely miserable in our quarters. The rain extinguished the fire in the chimney, filling with smoke the house, in which wet clothes were hang- ing, for I had ordered a great washing. The night was pitch dark, and the rain still streaming down. Hearing some noise close to the house, I went out to listen on the verandah, when I saw the shadow-like figures of some men on horseback right before me. One of them asked with a deep voice whether that was a forsaken camp ? — a rather suspicious question, which did not fail to give us some alarm. Colonel Corvin put on his india-rubber coat, and dived, revolver in hand, into the darkness to reconnoitre. The horsemen were no rebels, as we feared, but belonged to the Union army, and were on the look- out for some shelter for their sick officer. They had established themselves in a shanty belonging to our lieutenant-colonel. The rains ceased, and with their disappearance returned our cheerfulness. The Vv^eather was indeed delightful. When we received the news that General Steedman with fifteen trains Cordial Reception in Stevenson. 95 would arrive on the 23rd in Stevenson, and that he expected to find us all there, I was exceedinijly glad and in the best of humours, for I was to see again my dear husband after a time full of danger. It was good that I received the news of the battles fought after they were over, and together with that of Salm's safety, or I would have felt great anxiety. We were received in Stevenson most cordially. Steedman and Salm looked more like robbers than officers, for they had gone through a hard time, and had no leisure to think of their toilet. Their beards were more than a week old, and their uniforms covered with mud and torn to rags. Salm was beaming with happiness, not alone on account of our meeting, but because he at last had had fighting to his heart's content, and an opportunity of distinguishing himself During the battles Steedman had given him a command, and could not find words jnough to praise his bravery and good behaviour. He regretted that decorations were not distributed in America, for above all Salm would have deserved being distinguished by such a decoration. He said, however, that he would take care to place him in conimand of a brigade, and cause General Thomas to recommend him for promotion. We could not stay in Stevenson, and returned in the afternoon to Bridgeport, feeling extremely proud and happy. The weather remained beautiful for several days, and it was as warm as in spring. To celebrate Christmas and the victo- ries, we dressed out our hou?;e and its verandah with holly, and the tame blue-birds came picking the red berries. Corvin with some men went into the wood for mistletoe, which was found there in such luxuriance as I have not seen anywhere. They brought home one bush that was at least four feet in diameter, and its berries were as large as white currants. We passed a very merry Christmas Eve at Gilford's, in Bridgeport, who gave us a splendid supper. Corvin brewed several gallons of much appreciated whisky punch, and I am sure the house of the worthy clergyman had never before had a merrier night. There was a piano, and we had a good deal of singing and dancing, and games of every kind. On Christmas Day we arranged a similar festival in our quarters ; in short, we had a nice time, and were as happy as could be. Tne road being free now, Mrs. Corvin and her husband pre- 96 ' Ten Years of my Life. pared to leave for Washington, and I resolved to accompany them as far as Nashville, or evtn to Washington, according to the news from Felix. On the 4th of January, 1865, General Brannon was to go by special train to Nashville, and offered to take us with him, an offer that was thankfully accepted. We arrived on the 5th at the St. Cloud Hotel, where I found many old acquaintances. Receiving a despatch from Groeben, informing me that my husband would arrive on January 8th, in Bridgeport, with his brigade, I decided on returning to that place next morning with a hospital train, and Colonel and Madame Corvin left for Washington. The Americans are an eminently practical and sensible peo- ple ; everything they do is to the purpose, and economy only a second-rate consideration. In other countries this is the principal object, and most institutions that are imperfect are so on account of stinginess, which, after all, causes the greatest waste of money. The American hospital trains are perfection. There is everything which can possibly be desired by wounded men and the surgeons who treat them. They are spacious and airy, and provided with all the comforts of a hospital. The waggons are of course connected in such a manner as to per- mit a free communication along the whole train. There are two kitchens, one for the rooking of food, the other for the requirements of nursing. Those who are severely wounded lie in beds standing on the tloor ot the waggon, and have no other beds above them. In other waggons two beds are placed, one above the other. They are arranged in such a manner that the wounded do not suffer frorn the movement, by means of springs and elastic bands connected with the beds. Should another war ever occur in Europe, the sanitary authori- ties would do well to study and imitate the American pattern, and use such hospital trains more frequently than has been done in the French war. In this latter war it was distressing to sec the manner in which poor w^ounded soldiers were often transported in common railway trains, lying iii filthy cattle- waggons, even without straw, on the floor, feeling every shock, and remaining sometimes five or six hours at some station without even a drink of water. On my arrival in Bridgeport I was much disappointed, for Salm had not arrived yet, and v/as still some sixty miles from ■Tennessee River, 97 that place= An order from General Steedman was waiting there, appointing him commander of that post. At Jast Felix arrived on the loth of January, and after a great deal of trouble everything was arranged well. The Prince formed his staff, and made Groeben provost-marshal, and Captain Eckert in- spector of the post. I at once visited the hospital, which I found in a very neglected state, on account of the frequent changes that had taken place during the last month. I got things right as well as I could, but had to go to Chattanooga to procure many commodities I thought necessary for the wounded. Salm went with me, and General Steedman very readily granted everything I wanted, especially some hospital. ten,ts. Salm had to leave without me, for I had not finished yet ; and when I was ready I had £0 many things that I could not find a place for all of them in the hospital train, with which I returned. Dr. Woodworth was in charge of the train, and had with him his exceedingly pretty wife. We did not return to our shanty on the island, but removed to the quarters of the post-commander, which were situated on the highest place in Bri(^geport. From this spot we had a beautiful view up and down the great Tennessee river, with its picturesque mountains, the lovely island, and the railroad. Two gunboats were stationed near the bridge ; they were at the disposition of my husband, who had there besides five regiments under his command. The people of Tennessee had hoped much from Hood, and were greatly disappointed by his defeat. They became despe- rate, and guerilla bands committed many depredations in the country and cruelty upon Union people. Salm, therefore, was very anxious to check them. For this purpose he undertook several expeditions, which he always commanded hnnself, though he often took with him only one company. These raids were usually without result, for the rebels had their spies everywhere, and I failed, not to tease Salm ; but on the 29th, at last, an expedition had a grand result: he captured two rebel hats and frightened nine rebel women out of their wits. He did not mind my teasing, and was indefatigable. Towards the end of January he started for another expedition down the river on the transport ship ' Bridgeport,' and taking with him the gunboat ' Burnside.' He landed his troops about forty-five miles from Bridgeport, and on a very dark 98 Ten Years of ony Life. night he surprised a rebel camp. In the ensuing fight thirteen rebels were killed, fourteen taRen prisoners, and a number of arms and horses fell into the hands of our troops, who lost only one officer of a coloured regiment. On the 13th of February, Salm returned from another suc- cessful raid, which he made with about three hundred men. He surprised, on the loth, the noted guerilla chief Witherspoon in his camp, captured many arms and some fine horses, amongst which was the celebrated charger of the rebel chief, whose brother, together with fifteen rebels, were taken prison- ers. A good number of the rebels were killed and wounded, whilst our troops had no casualties. This success made a great noise, and General Steedman was so much satisfied that he once more and very urgently recommended Salm for pro- motion. Whilst Salm was thus attending to his military duties, always commanding these raids in person, I had much to do with ar- ranging our quarters and improving the hospital. I had to go several times to Chattanooga, for the people there had sent me rotten tents, and I had to exchange them for new ones, ' and to fetch other commodities for my sick. Life in Bridgeport was then quite pleasant, for our company had had many agreeable additions. Several officers' wives had arrived, and the captains of the gim boats * Stone River ' and ' Burnside ' were also married, and very nice people. In the middle of February my brother-in-law. Captain John- son, arrived with my sister and her son Fran ky, for the captain had been attached to my husband's brigade. The proposed promotion of several officers and that of Salm did not pro- gress. There was somewhere a hitch, and some hostile influ- ences supposed to be at work in Washington. After due reflection it was thought best that I, escorted by old Groeben, should go to Washington and look afler the in- terests of Felix and his brigade. To Europeans, especially to Germans, this meddling of ladies, especially with military aftairs, will appear rather strange, but every country has its peculiarities, and it is one of the peculiarities of America that ladies have there a far different position from that they hold in Europe. More things go through their hands than outsiders dream of, and ofiiciais in different bureaus are not in the least surprised if ladies attend. Start for Washington. 99 to tlie business of their husbands. Though the promotion of Salm depended in the first place on Stanton, as he had to pro- pose him, he had to be confirmed as a general by the Senate, and moreover Stanton, independently as he generally acted could not disregard the suggestions of influential governors or senators, whose assistance he again required for other purposes. As I had friends amongst the governors and senators, I hoped they would exert their influence in my husband's interest, es- pecially as they could do so with a good conscience, his claims being strongly supported by his behaviour and the recommen- dation from his chiefs. General Steedman approved of my plan, and I therefore started on February 24th for Washington, carrying with me the good wishes and hopes of the brigade. 100 CHAPTER Vli. On board the * General Lyttle ' — In Washington — Up-hill work- -Senator Yates — Go with Groeben to New York — Governor Fentou — Governor Gilmore of New Hampshire — Return lo Washington — Victory — Receive the General's commission for Salni — Living at Corvin's in Georgetown — Short sketch of war events — Characteristic of General Grant — The assassination of Lincoln — Attempt against Secretary Seward — Impression made by that catastrophe — The Funeral — Andrew Johnson, the new President — Mr. Field, Assistant Secretary of ^he Treasury — Returning to the war — Felix in Dalton, Georgia — Arrival in Chattanooga — No trains — Get a locomotive — Riding on the cow-catcher — A journey from Dalton to Cleveland — A fearful night in the woods — Dangers of railway travelling — A narrow escape — I get a baby of my sister's — Starting for Atlanta, Georgia — State of the country — Our life in Atlanta — Leaving for Savannah — Fort Pulaski— An excursion to Augusta — Dangers of the Savannah rivers — Ova- steamer, the ' Fanny Lehr,' running on a snag — Sticking in the mud — The alligators — Assistance arriving — Continue our journey — Coming up with the 'Robert Lehr,' \thich strikes a snag and goes down — ■ Returning to Savannah— End of the war — Going via Baltimore to Washington — Living in Georgetown at Corvin's — Forming new plans — Salm resolves to go to Mexico — Groeben is to go with him — I re- main in Washington — Take a house in that city together with the Corvins — Our life — Excursions — Colonel Moore — Leaving for Mexico — Good-bye to President Johnson — On board the ' Manhattan ' — Father Fisher — Arrival in liavannah — Surprise — Meeting balm — Arrival in Vera Cruz. My husband accompanied me as far as Nashville, where we met General Steedman and Colonel von Schrader, with his wife. As I had to attend to some business connected with my hospital, I stayed over Sunday in Nashville, and went with General Steedman to the Sanitary Commission, from whom I got all I wanted. On Tuesday, February 28th, I started for Louisville, where I had to stay two days, feeling not well at all. Arrival at C tiTiiherland. 101 I had the pleasure of seeing Colonel Taylor, the former post- commander of Bridgeport, whose regiment had gone home. Still ill, I embarked in the steamer ' General Lyttle ' for Cincinnati. She was a very large splendid ship, -which some- time afterwards was destroyed by fire. The saloon in this ship was exceedingly large. One part of it, separated from the rest by a moveable, heavy curtain, was allotted to the ladies, and provided with a fine piano and all the comforts of a drawing- room ; at the other end was a similar room for the gentlemen, who sat smoking round the stove. The large space between was used as a dming-hall, and several hundred persons could sit at dinner in it. The ship arrived too late for the morning train, and I had to stop in Cincinnati until ten o'clock p.m. I was still ill all night and next day, and the journey was a great trial. At one station a bridge had been washed away, and all passengers had to walk more than two miles in the rain, ankle-deep in the mud, and loaded with their hand-baggage. Old Groeben felt that exertion more than I did, for he was even worse on foot than on horseback. Arriving at Cumberland, Maryland, I felt so bad that I had to send for a doctor, and stay all Sunday, I arrived at last in Washington on Tuesday, March 6, at ten o'clock p.m. Though still ill I received many visitors, and amongst them Generals Hooker, Fry, and Stapel, Mr Speier and Dr. Strobach. I heard from them that the Senate would adjourn at the end of the week, and that I had not much time to lose if I wanted to attend to my business. I therefore called next day on the Senators Harris, Wilson, and Nesmick, and the Generals Hooker and Fry, in the War Department. From the latter I heard that the report of General Thomas had not been sent in yet, and that nothing would be decided until then in reference to the promotions in General Thomas's army. Senator Yates was also in Washington, and he and my other friends also exerted- themselves much in behalf of Felix. They communicated with the Generals Thomas and Steedman, and telegraphic despatches went and arrived every day. Steed- man once more urged the promotion of Felix, and I called on the Secretary of War, Mr. Stanton, whom I, however, did not find in his office, as he had gone to the Navy Yard. I was quite unhappy about ail these delays. Senator Yates 102 Ten Years of my Life. therefore wrote to Stanton, enclosing the despatch from General Steedman about Fehx, and I called again at the War Depart- ment. Stanton was in, but too much occupied to see me. I therefore sent in my letter and despatch, which were filed. By General Fry I always heard what was going on in the War Department in reference to my husband, and he told me that Stanton would not make him a general without having a special recommendation from General Thomas himself. Under the 27th of Ivlarch I find in my diary, ' I feel very unhappy, but I wiU succeed, even if it kills me.' Senator Yates felt pity for my distress, and sent a despatch to General Thomas, and when he had waited in vain for an answer, he wrote to General Steedman. I became quite ill with anxiety and vexation, but was resolved to succeed, and not to have any rest until I had done so. As the troops under the command of Felix were partly from New York, partly from New Hampshire, I resolved to interest the governors of those States, whose wishes could not well be dis- regarded by Stanton. 1 had, moreover, to attend to the busi- ness of other ofiicers of the brigade, who had been recom- mended for promotion, but not received yet their commissions from the governors. I therefore went with Groeben to New York, and before leaving for Albany I sent a despatch to good old Governor Gilmore, of New Hampshire. Arrived in Albany, I called on Senator Harris, whom I want- ed to go with me to Governor Fenton of New York. I did not find the senator, but being too impatient to wait for his return, I went with Groeben to Fenton, who received me with great kindness. He attended at once to my wishes in reference to the commissions for the officers, with which Groeben start- ed immediately to Bridgeport, whilst I returned to New York. I found there a despatch from Governor Gilmore, which I answered. Everything I could do I had done ; the governors promised their best, and in so far I succeeded beyond all my hopes ; but I became so impatient with all these d^ays, that I on my way back to Washington fell ill at Philadelphia. Dr. Mitchell, for whom I sent, said that I required only rest, and with that I should be well again in a few weeks. Mrs. Corvin and the Colonel had taken a house in George- town, a delightful place on the other side of the rocky creek, a kind of suburb ot Washington, where many of the rich citizens General Felix Salm. 103 had villas. I had seen rny friends very often during my stay in Washington, and not liking to remain alone in the hotel, and my sister being absent in Alabama, I accepted their offer to remove to their house in Georgetown, and on my arrival in Washington the Colonel was waiting for me at the depot. I found a letter from General Fry, who had gone to Charleston, which was very disagreeable, as I wanted his assistance in the War Department. Governor Yates was, however, still in Washington, and on calling on him, on the loth of April, I heard good news ; General Thomas had informed him that he /lad recommended Felix for promotion. Now I was full of hope, and mijht have allowed myself some rest, waiting patiently : but urged by some unaccomitable ' dread, and fearing that some untoward event might snatch out of my hands the palm of victory, I could not rest, and wrote at once to Senator Yates, who answered that he would see Stanton on the 12th of April. I called on the Senator on Thursday, the 13th of April, and was never happier in my Hfe, for Yates delivered into my hands the commission of general for Felix, signed by Stanton ! How proud I felt when I sent a despatch to Bridgeport addressed to General Felix Salm ! When I returned with my good news to Georgetown, I turned Mrs. Corvin's house topsy-turvy, and they took part in my happiness, Corvin brewed in the evening some nice punch, and we drank the health of the dear new general. Yes, I felt extremely happy and proud. He had given me his name and made me a princess, but notwithstanding his name and rank he would have failed after his first start, and remained a colonel without a regiment, involved as he was in the fate of poor Blenker. All his merit would have availed him little against the rancour of Stanton. I procured for him the command of the 8th, and raised for him the 68th Regi- ment ; now he had become a general through my exertions. I must remind the reader once more that I am writing my personal experience, and not history. I must suppose a general knowledge of the American war, as even a slight sketch takes up too much space. I therefore shall merely touch on the great events which happened in the last half ot 1865 in the East, which led to the conclusion ol the war. The successes in the West, especially the capture of Vicks- burg and the victories near Chattanooga, had made General 104 Ten Years of my Life. Grant a favourite with the Government in Washington. He was appointed Commander-Jn- chief of all the armies, and placed himself at the head of the Potomac army, whilst he left affairs in the South and AVest in the hands of Sherman and Thomas, who had chiefly made his reputation. Grant himself is no great general, though he has some qualities which, together with his good luck, made him appear so to the world looking on from afar off. He has great tenacity, an utter dis- regard for human life, and is no talker. His good luck and and his taciturnity made him president of the United States, not his talent. The people had been sufficiently disappointed l>y boasters and talkers, and were favourably disposed towards a general who had successes to show and make no fuss about them. His taciturnity made him appear v/iser than he really was. The views of General Grant about the manner in which the great struggle was to be terminated were based on figures. He knew that the Union had the longest purse and far greater resources in men than the South ; that the treasury of the rebels was exhausted, and that the army they had in the field was the last they could raise. He could afford to lose as many thousands as they could hundreds ; and on this brutal princi- ple, not on strategical skill, was built his hope of victory. Though the conquest of Richmond would have been always a great success, it would have been more of a moral than of a material value, as war he knew would be carried on in other parts of the wide South as long as there were men left to fight. The Government, however, wanted next Richmond, and when Stanton confided to Grant the army, it was under two condi- tions : that he should at once move upon Richmond, and do it on another road than that which McClellan had used, whom Stanton hated more than the rebels. Every military man of sense saw that the plan of that much-abused general was still the best for the attack of the rebel capital, and that it might be approached with scarcely any loss by the way of the James or York rivers, whilst that over land would have to be paved with corpses. But Stanton ordered, and Grant had promised to fight it out on that road. He therefore crossed the Rapidyn river, and before he reached the point where McClellan com- menced his campaign. Grant had lost about 80,000 men in the battles of the Wilderness, Spotsylvania-Court- House, and Coal Death of President Lincoln. 105 Harbour. What was it to liim 1 His calculation was right ; he could afford such a loss from his 700,000, whilst the 20,000 lost by the Southern army made useless all the skill of General Lee and the heroic eftbrts of his troops. The final result is known. Lee had to capitulate ; Richmond was taken. When the news of the successes arrived in Washington, the city resembled a madhouse. All the offices were closed at. once for that day ; the ten thousand clerks ran into the streets, and first into the bar-rooms, to celebrate the victory in drink. In a quarter of an hour scarcely one sober man was to be seen ; whoever was not intoxicated by spirits was so with political enthusiasm. Everybody embraced everybody in the street. Good Friday, the 14th of April, 1865, came. This day is not kept as holy either in England or America, as it is in Pro- testant Europe ; the theatres are not even closed. It was, moreover, the anniversary of the surrender of Fort Sumter in 1 86 1, and was to be celebrated as a day of joy, and on that day the Union flag was to be hoisted again on the fort with great ceremonies. The people wanted to see Lincoln and Grant, and to satisfy their curiosity the President had resolved to attend the repre- sentation of a play — ' The American Cousin ' — in Ford's Theatre, 6th Street ; and the more so, as General Grant was compelled to leave for the army. How Lincoln was shot there by John Wilkes Booth is known. I intended to go next day to New York to order a generals uniform and all belonging to it for Felix, and rose early. Be^ fore I had yet finished my toilet. Colonel Corvin knocked at my door in a manner that frightened me, and still more was I alarmed when, on opening the door, I looked into his pale, excited face, tears filling his eyes. He told me that President Lincoln and Secretary of State Seward had been murdered last night. A neighbour had told him so. I never in my life have seen or heard of such a general and sincere mourning. .Everybody looked as if his father had suddenly died, and even known rebel sympathisers looked grave and sad, for they knew well that the death of this good and just man was a great loss even for the conquered. On the same morning, many houses in Georgetown and Washing- ton were draped with black, and next day not one building, public or private, was to be seen without such lugubrious ornament. 106 Ten Years of my Life. President Lincoln was carried from Ford's Theatre to the house of a German photographer, Mr. Henry Uike, and died fcarly on Saturday morning. Mr. Seward was not killed, but severely wounded by a man of the name of Payne. He was sick in bed with a fractured jaw from a fall from his carriage, when Payne entered the house under the pretext of bringing some medicine from the apothecary. As he made some noise, young Seward, the Assistant-Secretary of State, came out of his room, and was immediately felled to the ground by a blow on his head with the butt-end of a revolver. When Payne, knife in hand, jumped towards the bed of the old Secretary of State, a male nurse, an invalid, caught him round his waist from behind, and though he received several stabs he did not let go his hold ; and when dragged to the bed by the far stronger assassin, his exertions were so far successful that they caused the stabs to miss their aim, wounding Mr. Seward only in the neck. The house was of course alarmed, but the assassin succeeded in making his escape, wounding some persons of the house- hold who met him on the staircase. When Miss Fanny Seward, the amiable daughter of the Secretary, rushed into her father's bedroom, she found him lying on the ground, entangled in his bloody sheets. The sight of her bleeding brother and father made. such a frightful impression on her, that she ailed from that time, and died after her father and brother had recovered from their wounds. When Mr. Seward was asked afterwards what were his thoughts on seeing the knife oPthe assassin over him, he said, ' I looked into his^face, and thought, "What a handsome man ! " ' There were many reports afloat accusing well-known persons of having taken part in the conspiracy, and neither the Vice- President, Mr. Johnson, nor high military commanders escaped suspicion. John Wilkes Booth was tracked, and defending himself when surrounded in a barn, was shot by a corporal. Payne was caught and hanged with three others, amongst whom was Mrs. Surrat, the first woman, I was cold, who ever suffered this pun- ishment in the United States. Though I mourned very much the death of the good and kind President, war had hardened me somewhat against the impression of such scenes and news, and 1 left the same even- The Presidents Funeral. 107 ing for New York to attend to my private business. I found there great excitement, and that the sympathy of the people in New York was the same as in Washington, as, in fact, was the case throu2;hout the whole Union. I had alighted in the Everett House, where Governor Gil- more, of New Hampshire, called on me, and returned to Georgetown on April 19, at noon, when I found all Washing- ton in the streets, for the funeral of Mr. Lincoln was to take place at one o'clock. His remains had been laid out in be- coming pomp in the green-room of the President's residence. The funeral has been described in all papers, and will still be remembered. Whoever saw it will never forget it, not on account of its magnificence, but on account of the rarer sight of so many thousand sad and tearful faces. The coffin was brought to the great Rotunda in the Capitol, and remained there open in state until nine o'clock next day. From far and near still many thousands more came to have a last look at this victim of political fanaticism. It was intended to carry the remains of the President as speedily as convenient to Springfield, Illinois, but this could not be carried out, for everybody wanted once more to see the face of the beloved President, and every city and village through which the procession passed wanted to pay him their last respects. The cities of Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York, Albany, Chicago, vied with each other. From hundreds of miles the people flocked near the road only to see the sombre cortege pass, and honour it at least by uncovering. This kind of tri- umphant march lasted until May 3, when the cortege arrived in Springfield, Illinois. Though I wished very much to return to my husband, I was detained by difterent circumstances longer than I intended in Georgetown. According to the constitution, the Vice-Presi dent, Mr. Andrew Johnson, had become President of the United States. I had made his acquaintance in Nashville, when he was still Governor of Tennessee, in which State he always had particular connections and influence, which might have been used in favour of my husband. I wished therefore to secure his acquaintance, and called on him. He was mucn occupied, and I could not see him, but he sent word that he would receive me on April 24, at ten o'clock. 108 Ten Years of my Life. On that day I went to the White House, accompanied by Madame von Corvin. We had an audience, and were received very courteously ; but, as many people were waiting to see him, and I had no time to speak of things to which I wanted to draw his attention, he invited me to call on him in the evening after business hours the same day. I followed this invitation accompanied by Mr. Field, the Assistant-Secretary of the Treasury, whose acquaintance I had made recently. I presented the President with a bouquet, which he received very graciously. On April 30 I said good-bye to Georgetown, and started for New York, where I had still to attend to some business for Felix, which detained me over a week. In Cincinnati I was again detained, but at last left, on May 13, for Louisville, where I found two despatches from my husband, who had meanwhile removed to Dalton, in Georgia. Telegrams which I found in Nashville made me stop in that city another day, and I did not arrive in Chattanooga before May 17, where I found Captain von Groeben to escort me to Dalton, The railroad was all torn up and no regular trains running, but being impatient to reach Felix, I managed to get an extra train — that is, only a locomotive — though everybody advised me not to run the risk. I had my way however, and poor Groeben had to risk his limbs with me. I was in such good spirits that I played all kinds of tricks only to have a laugh at Groeben, who was horrified when I insisted on riding on the cow-catcher, which I did. It was glorious fun, but more like riding on a high trotting-horse than on a locomotive, for our whole journey, which lasted three hours, was more like a jump- ing procession. Dalton is a small town in Georgia, and in consequence of General Sherman's war policy had been destroyed almost en- tirely ; only half a dozen houses had been spared, and it was extremely difficult to procure quarters for us. At last we succeeded in securing a small cottage overgrown with ivy and wild vine which pleased me much. My sister Delia was with her husband in Cleveland, Tenn. She expected her confinement, and I felt very envious, fori had no child which made me quite unhappy. Seeing this, my sister promised to let me have the expected one, if it should be a boy, and I awaited the news with great impatience. When I at la^c A Hide in an Ambulance. 109 receive^ the telegraphic despatch I could not get an extra tram, and resolved to ride over in an ambulance, for the distance was only twenty-nine miles. This would have been a trifle any- where else but in Georgia at that time. The driver, however, pretended to know the road, and I was not afraid, though we had to cross dense woods. It was evening when we entered them, and the driver lost his way. We were wandering about until the middle of the night, and it became so dark that we could not see our horses. But on a sudden there broke loose a thunderstorm, such as you have only in southern countries. The hurricane rushed through the trees, and made them creak or break down with a crash. Flash after flash of lightning followed, lighting up the fearful scene for moments, and the thunder made a noise as if hundreds of guns were fired at once. Then the rain poured down in torrents, and everywhere gurgled and* rushed water preparing new unseen dangers. It was indeed a desperate situation, and it may be imagined how glad we were on discovering at last, at about two o'clock A.M., a farm before us. Though not knowing whether we should meet a. friend or a foe, necessity was stronger than fear, and we roused the owner. He was a Mr. Price, who received us with kindness, and I stayed with him until morning. When I arrived at about noon in Cleveland, my sister had had a fine boy, who therefore was to be mine, and whom I at once called Felix. I returned after a day or two to Dalton, again in my ambulance, as the hope of getting a train failed. The road, torn up by the storm, was extremely bad, and our horses became so exhausted that we once more had to apply to the hospitality of Mr. Price. In the night I was awakened by the arrival of my husband, who came to fetch me. ■ Some time afterwards, on July 3, I received a despatch tell- ing me that my poor sister was very ill. I applied for a loco- motive to General Steedman, who had his head-quarters in Atlanta, and was promised one for next morning. I preferred waiting, remembering -my first journey in an ambulance, but nearly got out of the frying-pan in.o the fire. The service on the railway had not been regulated yet, and locomotives were always running to and fro at haphazard. When our locomo- tive was just on a dangerous curve and swaying round, we saw, to our horror, another coming full speed towards us. Without the presence of mind of our engineer, a smash would have 110 Ten Years of my Life. occurred the next second ; but he was a brave and cool-headed man ; instead of leaping off tRe locomotive and leaving me to my fate, as many others would perhaps have done, he at once backed to a safe distance. There was only one line of rails, and General Judah, who ^yas on the locomotive meeting us, was polite enough to return with us to Cleveland. I found my sister better, but it was resolved that she should engage a negro nurse, and that I should take her and the baby with me to Dalton. I was extremely happy to have at last a baby, and it became the centre around which everything turned — even my pet Jimmy was neglected. Little Felix was a most beautiful child, and the black nurse felt very proud, as black nurses of white children always do. It was quite amusing to hear her breaking out in ecstasies about her nursling, and preferring him much to her own child, which she contemptuously called a black brat. When I returned home I found that Felix had received marching orders. His brigade had to advance to Atlanta, whilst General Steedman went to Augusta. The country was in a fearful state. There was nothing to be had, and it had been extremely difficult for me to procure even the most necessary articles or household things in Dalton. In Atlanta I knew it was still worse, and when we started on July 7 for that city, I took with me everything collected with so much trouble. Twelve miles before Atlanta our train ran off the track, and it required much time and work to set things right. We ar- rived at last at the city of Atlanta, or rather at a place where it once had been. Before the war, Atlanta had been only an insignificant place, not being older than about twenty years, but during this war it had become of very great importance, not only on account of the several railroad junctions there, but still more because there had been established the most important mills, factories, and Government stores, providing the Southern army with all requirements. Sherman wanted to finish the war, and calcu- lated that this might be done best by unstringing or cutting the sinews of war. After having destroyed all the factories along the Chattahooche river and its neighbourhood, he deci- ded on taking Atlanta, which he therefore besieged. The Federal Barbarities. Ill town was only fortified with field-works, but to storm them would cost too many men, and Sherman thought it more secure to compel the Richmond of the West to surrender by starva- tion. He succeeded, and the Confederate army defending it had to leave the town to its fate. This fate was very hard, for Sherman acted only on mere military principles, which always are directly opposed to humanity. He wanted the place for military purposes, and insisted that all its inhabitants should leave it, going either south or being conveyed to the Northern States, where they could not harm the interest of the army. All petitions were in vain ; everybody, even sick women and children, had to leave ; and taking with them such of their goods as they could transport, they were escorted by Federal officers to the army of General Hood. This was indeed a very cruel tate after having endured all the horrors of a long siege. Poor Atlanta, it was doomed to utter destruction when Sherman started on his celebrated march to Savannah. After having concentrated around Atlanta about 70,000 men, and given up all connections with Chattanooga, he destroyed all railroads and places between, and burnt Atlanta itself on the 14th of November. He would leave behind him a wilderness, in order that no Southern army might be able to follow him. Before the Southern chiefs even became aware of his inten- tions, which had been kept wonderfully secret, he had already a start of nearly three hundred miles — thrive hundred miles, in which scarcely a house and no food either for cattle or man was to be found. The instructions given by Sherman to the army were extremely severe, and even barbarous, but they became still more so by the manner in which they were executed by the Federal soldiers. Every bit of iood was taken by them, or, if they had too much to transport, destroyed, and nobody cared whether the poor Southern families were left to starve. Jewellery, plate, and valuables, which were transportable, were appropriated under pretext that they might be sold and furnish means to the rebels. In houses from which the inhabitants had fled before the cruelties of the Federals, which on purpose had been exaggerated by the Southern papers, every piece of furniture was destroyed or the whole concern burnt ; and if some DOor wretches were discovered hid in the woods, even 112 Ten Years of my Life. unarmed, they were hanged or shot. For centuries war had not been carried on in such a nnanner, but it was successful. The North, infatuated by political fanaticism, applauded, and Sherman was the great hero of the war. I do not envy such glory, great general as he may be. All public buildings in Atlanta were burnt and destroyed by means of gunpowder. Of the once elegant private houses nothing remained but the blackened chimneys. Only a few old houses in the suburbs had been spared, because they were used by Federals, and some new light ones had been built since then. It was a sad sight, and on looking on it one could scarcely believe that the remaining inhabitants of that country would ever become reconciled to their Northern conquerors. General Sherman had promised to make my husband com- mander of the whole district. This was a very honourable position, but at the same time a very difficult one, requiring much energy and tact. Salm and I could not at once find a house, and we stayed a few days in that of a relative of a la.^y who had come over with us from Dalton, and who was anxious to secure the good graces of the new commander. On the loth of July, however, we found a very nice little cottage, in which Salm established his head-quarters after General Win slow had surrendered to him the command of the place. •We remained in Atlanta until October, and time passed very agreeably with us. My brother-in-law had become Pro- vost-Marshal of the post, and therefore came over with my sister Delia. As little Felix did not get on very well with his nurse, and the doctors thought that he would be better with hi? inother, I with great regret gave him up again. W^e had almost always visitors passing througli,, mostly officers going from one part of the army to the other, and as there was no hotel in Atlanta their comrades in the town had to accommodate them as best they could. In regard to pro- visions, we were at first very badly ofi", for the few country people in the district who had something to sell did not venture to bring their products to market for fear of being badly treated by the soldiers, as happened ^now and then. The Union soldiers were supercilious, and the southern people full of hatred towards them, and though prudence advised them to be cautious in their expressions, they often gave way to their Poor White People. 113 feelings, and riots ensued. Sensible men tried to restore peace but that was sometimes a very thankless business. Judge Butt, an acquaintance of ours, and a well meaning man, who once tried to pacify the quarrelling parties, was badly wounded by one of our cavalry men. My husband tried his best to restore confidence in the dis- trict, and to check the insolence of the soldiery. His endea- vours were not without success, and after some time huts sprang up amongst the ruins, and country people came to the market. The distress of the poor white people in Georgia had found sympathy in the North, and one day, in August, Judge Root and his wife arrived with an immense train loaded with all kinds of clothing and other things, which he confided to me for distribution. When I advertised the arrival of these benevolent gifts, hundreds of poor women from the district flocked to our house, and I was several days occupied with this good work. To look on those poor wretched creatures was a very sad sight They looked all yellow and starved, and were sca^-cely covered by rags. There were of course many sick and wounded, and the hospitals were crowded. We had, however, good doctors, and I supported them to my best ability, passing every day a few hours in the hospitals, and going now and then to Augusta, or even to Nashville, to fetch provisions and other commodities from the Sanitary or Christian Commission. * Our endeavours to do everything that possibly could be done for the poor Southerners were kindly appreciated by the Atlanta people, who once surprised us with a serenade ; though we laughed much at the great variety of musical instruments, and the queer music produced" by them, we' felt highly gratified at the kind feeling expressed by it. I do not know whether in the military law all the different punishments are allowed which I saw in the army, but I caii scarcely believe it, for they were exceedingly barbarous, and riot at all in accordance with the spirit of the American law. I am rather inclined to believe that there were more sanctioned by army tradition, deriving their origin from what once was thought necessary in the British army. Whipping has been abolished, I think, by the la\v, but what had been substituted for it was far worse. Soldiers who had committed a breach of discipline, or had G 114? Ten Years of ray Life, been found drunk repeatedly, were tied to a tree with a horse's . bit or bayonet fixed in their Tnouths ; or they were suspended by their thumbs in such a manner as just to reach the ground with the tips of their toes. Others were exhibited as drunkards for hours, standing on tubs in the middle of the camp, and laughed at and teased by all passers-by, as used to be done when people were put in the stocks or exhibited on the pillory. Once when Salm had gone to Marietta, I heard cries of pain coming from the garden behind my house. A poor fellow, with a bayonet in his mouth, was tied there against a tree and exposed to the glaring sun. I sent for Captain Steurnagel, my husband's Assistant Adjutant-General, and heard from him that this man was punished in this manner for disobedience against Salm. He was a German who had enlisted recently, and who refused obstinately to cut off his long elf locks. Salm had sent for him, but the German insisted on his right to wear his hair as he liked, making a long speech about tyranny being unworthy of a free country. In things concerning discipline Salm did not understand any joke, and he condemned the man to the above-mentioned punishment. I insisted on his immediate release, but Captain Steuernagel refused to comply with my demand, as was his duty. At this I became angry, and as the captain would not take upon him- self the responsibility, I untied the poor fellow with my own hands, poor Steuernagel not daring to hinder me, though he was much afraid of the consequences. I took the rather crazy German into ray kitchen, and gave him something to eat and drink, for he was utterly exhausted. In examining him 1 heard that he was a learned apothecary, and as I became interested I resolved to find for him a place where he could be of more use than in the ranks. The man was not insensible to kindness, and on my advice he cut off his hair, went to Salm and begged his forgiveness. Salm never heard that I had liberated him, for the captain of course did not care to tell ; and believing that he had suffered his punishment it was not difficult for me to interest my kind husband in his favour, who made him doctor in a coloured regiment. A great but pleasurable excitement was produced in Atlanta by the arrival of the paymaster. In consequence of the in- Sahn goes to Savannah. 115 security of the roads, this rare bird had not appeared in our camp for nearly eight months, and penury was the prevailing epidemic. I think I spoke before about the evil consequences of this manner of paying soldiers in the American army. It compelled the officers to sell their pay-rolls in advance to agents, who took enormous interest. The privates were still worse off, for they took tickets, representing a certain sum, .from the sutlers, who made immense profits. The commanders tried to regulate this trade as much as possible, but their powers in this respect were limited, and moreover, they had only too frequently good reasons to wink at the doings of the sutlers and their agents. On October 3, Salm received orders to go with his old regi- ment to Savannah, which had been evacuated by the rebels already, about Christmas. I went with Salm as far as Augusta, where I intended to stay, together with Mrs. Steedman, until further orders. My sister came also to Augusta, for her hus- band had been appointed assistant provost-marshal of the de- partment. I occupied myself as usual in the hospitals and their affairs. I frequently visited Atlanta, Macon, and Nash- ville, to which latter place I went on October 16 with Dr. Simon, riding again, as I find in my diary, on the ' cow- catcher.' This manner of travelling is not at all dis.tgreeable, for one has fresh air, and is free from dust and heat of the locomotive. I could not leave Augusta before October 28. The journey was very unpleasant and fatiguing, for we had to travel nearly sixty miles in a stage-coach until we reached station * Four one-half,' where we had to remain until October 30. We arrived at last in Savannah and stopped at the Pulaski House, where I was much disappointed in not finding Felix, who had gone to Fort Pulaski ; but I soon received a letter from him informing me that he would be obliged to stay a few days at Fort Pulaski, but would come and fetch me as soon as dis- engaged. The Prince arrived amidst a great thunderstorm. He stayed in the city until the 4th, when I was to accompany him to Pul aski . but as it was raining very hard, and the ambulance ordered to bring me to the wharf did not arrive in time, he had •"o go without me, and I followed him in the afternoon, in a tug, "'ccompanied by Colonel Carlton, the quarter-master of the department. IIG Ten Years of my Life. Fort Pulaski, situated on a narrow peninsula and washed by the sea, was then a most horrid'place. Having sustained a siege and being partly in ruins, the accommodation for the garrison was very bad, and the place not having been cleaned for a very long time, was filthy beyond description. In consequence of this, sickness among the soldiers was prevalent, and a great many of them suffered from a kind of cholera or dysentery, with vomiting. The smell and the damp in the casements in which we were to live was horrid, especially on days when the weather was cold and the rain pouring down. Moreover, there was no furniture, and the whole place looked extremely dismal. I did not wonder that Colonel Carlton was quite disgusted, and re- turned to Savannah on the 6th. We followed him next day, to fetch many things in order to make our abode more cheer- ful, and to provide medicines, provisions and other comforts for our poor sick soldiers. Felix got leave to go to Augusta, and we started from Pulaski on the i6th in a small sailing-boat, but were too late in Savannah for the steamer 'Gibbons.' We therefore took places in the steamer ' Fanny Lehr,' which left for Augusta at four o'clock p M. I had a very nice state-room on the boat, but she had scarcely proceeded forty miles up the river when she struck on a snag, which entered her hulk, making a big leak through which the water came in very fast. The captain at once sent off a messenger to Savannah to fetch assistance, and we meanwhile succeeded in getting off the snag, and pad- dling out of the stream nearer to the bank of the river. The water rose very alarmingly, and soon extinguished the engine fires. The fore part of the ship sank to the muddy bottom, and the captain was afraid she would break right in the middle. The weather was fortunately very fine, and while waiting for assistance we amused ourselves with watching the alligators crawling in the muddy water around the ship. Salm regretted he had no gun to give them battle. He became quite excited when he saw a very big fellow crawl on shore, and wanted to get off the ship to pursue and kill him ; but he had to give up such an idea, as the ground was everywhere an unfathomable swamp. The ship did not break, and on the 21st the steamer ' Min» nie Brand ' came from Savannah to assist us. She had been Disbanding the GSth Regiment. 117 a gunboat plving on the James river, the same as the * Fanny Lehr/ We were glad to be afloat again, and steamed rather fast up the river, where we overtook the ' Robert Lehr,' a ship belong- ing to the company, heavily loaded with all kinds of provisions. When we were just alongside of her she ran on the sunken wreck of a ship. It was a tremendous shock. She trembled like a person in great fear, and went down as if she had been lead. It was a pity to see all the boxes with fine wines and baskets of champagne tumble into the water, and sink after a few moments. The crocodiles must have had a nice time that day, for there was wine enough on board to make them all drunk. We succeeded in saving not only the captain and crew, but also a box of fine claret and a basket of champagne. As the captain of the wrecked ship had no objection, we had cer- tainly none, to make acquaintance with the contents of box and basket. These accidents happening to the ' Fanny ' and the ' Robert Lehr ' were entirely owing to their captains neglecting to take pilots from Savannah, who were acquainted with every old snag and other unsafe places in that treacherous river. We arrived in Augusta on the 25th, in the afternoon, and heard from General Steedman that the order to disband the 68th Regiment had arrived from the War Department already two days ago. The regiment had suffered much by sickness, especially at Fort Pulaski, and was therefore sent home before the end of its time. Salm had to go to Wainsbury, where the luggage of the regiment was still being kept, and I remained meanwhile with Mrs. General Steedman and my sister. My husband returned soon, and on the 29th November we embarked on board the steamer ' Gibbons ' for Savannah. She was a most uncomfor- table old tub, and it was well we went down the river and not up. When we arrived on the 20th in Savannah we found there many officers of tlie 68th Regiment, all very much excited, and glad to return home. Salm was inclined to go with the 68th Regiment to New York, where it was to be disbanded, but as nothing but unplea- sant things awaited him there, I persuaded him to accompany me to Baltimore and Vv^ashington. The regiment left there- 118 Ten Years of my Life. fore without him in a transport steamer for New York, on the 6th December, while we remained in Savannah until Sunday the loth, finishing our preparations and taking leave of our many kind friends. On that day we went on board the steamer ' North Point/ bound for Baltimore. Salm had prepared nice boxes for our horses, which proved all good sailors, with the exception of a piebald, which became horribly sea-sick, to the great astonish- ment of Captain Smith, who had never seen such a case. I was, however, still more sea-sick than the piebald, and felt ex- tremely miserable until the 12th December, when we were detained in Chesapeake Bay by a dense fog. We arrived, however, safely in Baltimore, and went by rail to Washington, where we were received at the depot by Colo- nel Corvin, to whose home in Georgetown we went soon after- wards, to live there until we could decide upon our future. The war was over. All the volunteer generals and colonels returned to their former avocations, and in due time Salm was dismissed also. There were many of our friends in Washing- ton, generals and senators, and several of them tried to per- suade Salm to enter the regular army. Many senators pro- mised to use their influence to procure him a commission as colonel, and President Johnson, who was very favourably dis- posed towards him, approved also of that plan. Salm, however, did not like to serve in the regular army of the United States during peace. Though he had succeeded very well in that country, he could not fully be reconciled to the idea of living there for ever, and had always in view his final return to Europe and his family, to which he was very much attached. Having, however, spent his fortune, and losing his pay as a general with his being dismissed, necessity urged him to deside soon what course to take. At that time a great many former officers were in a position similar to his, and some of them took steps to enter the Liberal army of Mexico. The sympathies of Salm were, however, with the Emperor Maximilian, and though many friends warned him against linking his fate to that of this prince, they did not succeed in dissuading him from his purpose. It was in vain that they predicted a speedy end to the Mexican empire, say- ing that the Government of the United States could not and Salm and the Mexican Army. 119 ,would not permit the establishment of a monarchy so close to their frontiers. Salm, who had served in the Austrian army, had a personal love for the Emperor Maximilian, and did not doubt that he, having been a general during the war in the United States, would be received by him favourably. He communicated his intentions to the German minister, Baron von Gerolt, and also to the French ambassador, Mar- quis de IMontholon, and the Austrian minister, Baron von VVydenbruck, who all approved of his plan, and promised him strong recommendations. Even President Johnson, though he could not give him letters of introduction, did not disapprove of it, and on his request gave him a very flattering testimony, in which his services were fully and favourably acknowledged. Captain von Groeben, who had become much attached t(> my husband, would not part with him, and resolved to accom- pany him and try his luck also in Mexico. I was to remain with the Corvins until I should hear of Saim's success. In the middle of February all his preparations for the voyage were made. Baron Gerolt had given him letters of introduc- tion to the German minister in Mexico, Baron von Magnus ; Marquis de Montholon gave him a letter to Marshal Bazaine, and the Austrian minister oiie to the Emperor, to be delivered, by Count Thun. I had gone with Groeben to New York to secure a berth on board the * Manhattan,' which was to sail for Vera Cruz on Saturday, the 24th February, 1866. Salm arrived in the morn- ing in Everett House, New York, where he, met me and Groe- ben and many friends who came to take leave of him, perhaps forever. I went with Salm and Groeben on board the * Manhattan,* which was to start at half-past three in the afternoon. I shall not dwell on our leave-taking. I felt very sad and lonely when I returned to the hotel, and soon afterwards to George- town. , The Corvins had to give up their house to its returning pro- prietors, and we rented another in Massachusetts Avenue, Washington. Time passed there very quietly and pleasantly. Though we did not entertain much company, we received now and then visits from some friends, and amongt them was Colo- nel Moore, who had charge of the military cemeteries around Washington and in Virginia. He was an agreeable man, and 120 Ten Years of TJiy Life. we made many excursions, either on horseback or in a carriage, and still more frequently in- a boat on the beautiful Potomac. The valleys of this river above Washington, in the neighbour- hood of the chain bridge, are beautiful, and we passed there sometimes a whole day, taking with us provisions of every kind, and plenty of ice to cool our wine and water, or to preserve our meat, which even when roasted becomes alive in a few hours if that precaution is neglected. There, on the bank of some clear rivulet, bubbling over rocks, lying in luxuriant grass under the shade of dense bushes, we passed many pleasant hours, Mr. and Mrs. Corvin sketching, and I looking on. The walks near the Potomac, in the cooler evenings, are delightful. Whole clouds of fire-flies hang, now higher, now lower, over the meadows, studded with larger and more bril- liant glowworms, which were imprisoned sometimes in our hair, so that they formed round our head a circle of stars. The loud cicades, w^hich in the daytime scarcely ever inter- rupt their shrill monotonous song, are asleep, and relieved by * the frogs, whose song is far different from the discordant cries of their European cousins, for they seem to come from tiny well-tuned silver bells. Between this pleasant dreamy music is heard at intervals a single sound, as if produced by the cord of a base-viol pinched up between the thumb and index. Then again one is astonished by the mewing of a little cat, coming, however, from some catbirds, awakened by us from their sleep, whilst in the distance is heard occasionally the ' whip-poor- will.' On the 4th of July, the greatest festival in the Unit^sd States, we escaped the noise in the stieets, produced by hundreds of thousands of crackers and other fireworks, by making a party to the great Falls of the Potomac, about ten or twelve miles from Washington. It is astonishing that these most pictu- resque Falls are not visited more frequently by the Washington people. Were they situated near a great European city, thou- sands of tourists would constantly make them the aim of their excursions, for they are indeed most wonderiul. It is as if the hands of immensely strong giants had played there with peb- bles, as big as four-story houses, and left them in wild confu- sion. Amongst these stupendous black, sharp-edged rocks rushes down the wide Potomac. One may look for hours on this spectacle and not get tired of it. Death of Groehen. 121 Salm had safely arrived with Groeben in Mexico, but ^^ ™et there with quite unexpected difficulties, created by the je^-lousy of officers who also wanted, places, and the intrigues of the Austrian minister, Count Thun, who did not even deliver the letter of Baron Wydenbruck to the Emperor recommending Salm. He was quite in despair, as I find in his diary and let- ters, and he was made still more unhappy by the death of poor Groeben, who died in his arms on June i8. At last, in July, Salm was appointed colonel on the staff of the Emperor, and looked forward to my joining him with great impatience. He expected me to depart on July 9, but I was detained by many circumstances until August. I was ready at last, and started from Washington on August 10. Driving with Colonel Corvin to the depot and passing the White House, I stopped to say good-bye to the President. He had been very kind to me, and 1 had seen him frequently. We were admitted at once. Asking him point-blank what he thought of affairs in Mexico, he said that the reign of the Em- peror would last still a little while, but he was afraid the United States would have to interfere, though he personally sympa- thised with Maximilian. He wished me, however, good suc- cess, and said that he would always remember me kindly. Presenting to him Colonel Corvin, whom he had, however, seen before, I said jokingly that the colonel was a great Cop- perhead, on which Herr von Corvin laughingly answered ht did not care, as the President himself was called still worse names for his moderation in reference to the conquered. I embarked at New York on board the * Manhattan/ the same ship in which Salm sailed in February. Amongst the passengers was a most important and consequential-looking personage, who was called ' Monsignor,' and was treated with the utmost reverence whenever he favoured the deck with his appearance, which was however rarely, as he preferred the company of a lady friend travelling with him, a spiritual Sister, I suppose ; for the six-foot-high, broad-shouldered, portly, and haughty-looking dignitary of the Roman Church was the well- known Father Fischer, entrusted with a mission, it was said, to the Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. When we, on August 13, arrived in Havannah, we were very disagreeably surprised on hearing that we should have to re- main in quarantine, I do not know for what alleged reasons. 122 Ten Years of my Life. As there was no sickness on board our ship, which did not come from an objectionable pojt, we were very indignant, and signed a protest against such an annoying and superfluous measure, which we sent to the American consul. I had signed my name also, and it was very fortunate I did, for without it I would have missed Salm, and arrived in Vera Cruz whilst he looked for me in vain in New York. Impatient as he was. and imagining all kinds of evil happen- ing to me, he requested leave of absence from the Emperor in order to fetch me from New York, which was graciously granted by the kind and noble Maximilian. Salm, who had arrived in the middle of July in Vera Cruz, fell ill at that place with the yellow fever, from which he recov- ered, however, unexpectedly soon, so that he was able to em- bark for Havannah on August 6. He happened to be with the American consul when our pro- test arrived, and on reading the signatures Salm saw my name, procured permission to go on board the ' Manhattan,' where he, however, had to remain until the i8th, when the ship was released from quarantine. We were very happy at this unexpected meeting, and started once more reunited for Vera Cruz. On the 22nd we landed at Susal in Yukatan, a provmce belonging to the Mexican empire, where we passed very agreeable hours in exploring this inter- esting little place. It is inhabited by a very line, noble-looking Indian tribe, differing considerably from all Indians I have seen either in North America or in Mexico. Their white dress is very tasteful and picturesque. Over a white petticoat, of which the edges are ornamented with embroidery of the most lively colours, representing flowers and arabesques, they wear a loose skirt embroidered in the same manner. We left at five o'clock p.m., and without any incident worth mentioning we arrived at Vera Cruz, on Friday, August 24, and alighted in the Dlllgencias Hotel, BOOK II. MEXICO. 125 CHAPTER VIII. Vera Cruz — Great graveyard — A Mexican diligence — Robbing the diligence — A gentlemanly sport — Paper dresses — Terra Templada — ' Get out if you can' — Pulqu6 — In an Indian hut— Orizava — Puebia — The plateau of Mexico — General Zerman — Baron Magnus. The entrance to Mexico is not inviting, but rather repulsive. Though glad to feel again firm ground under your feet, your sea-tired eyes are longing in vain for some refreshing green, for the sandy, sun-baked coast is as bare of vegetation as the palm of your hand. On approaching the regularly-built town of Vera Cruz, with its whitewashed tombstone-like houses, you feel a shuddering creep over your whole body, for you are entering an atmos- phere reminding you of the catacombs, coming from the sur- rounding swamps from which a tropical sun distils poison. No wonder that the yellow fever called Yellow Jack by the sailors, is master of the place about nme months in the year. It is the most deadly place to Europeans, of whom thousands are buried around it. On entering the town tnis uneafiy feeling is still increased on seeing almost more vultures than people. These most dis- gusting scavenger-birds, called there Zapilotes, are as impu- dent as sparrows in European cities , tney are protected by the law, because the carelessness and indifference of the inhabi- tants to sanitary matters makes them a necessity. There was nothing either in the Diligencias Hotel or in the town to retain us, and we left for Mexico next day at two o'clock P.M. Though the railroad built by the French was by no means good, it was a blessing, for it offered the means of passing quickly through a most dreary country. IdQ Ten Years of my Life. The heat was overpoweriner, but the cars were tolerably airy, and the seats were not provic!ed with cushions, which would have been quite intolerable. We had with us an escort of French soldiers, and how much they were required was proved by the appearance of some guerillas, who fled, however, after a few shots. The country became more attractive towards the end of our journey, and we arrived without further accident in Paso del Macho, where the railroad reached its end. Next morning we continued our journey per diligence, and started at five o'clock. The coachman objected to the admit- tance of my dog Jimmy in the diligence, but the almighty dol- lar softened his heart, and on paying the fare for a two-legged passenger my inseparable four-legged companion was allowed a seat. A French lady was not so fortunate, for her splendid Newfoundland dog was too large, and she had, with much re- gret, to leave it behind under the care of an attendant. A Mexican'.jdiligence is a most wonderful vehicle, only surpassed by the wonderful roads. It is dragged along by eight mules, first tvvo abreast, then four, and then again two. The skill of the coachman with a confusion of reins in his hand is admir- able. His place is indeed no sinecure, for he has to keep on a perpetual conversation with his mules, which he calls by their names, animating them by all imaginable kinds of sounds. He would, however, scarcely succeed in persuading them to do their duty alone by means of his eloquence, if not sup- ported by an aide-de-camp, a boy as active as a monkey. Now he runs along the road collecting stones, now climbs up with his load at the side of the coachman, throwing with unerring aim a stone at some offending mule, uniting his voice to that of his chief. This man is a very important personage, and his pay is very high — I believe nearly three hundred gilders a month — besides free board and lodging. He looks very picturesque with his leather jacket, large gold ornamented sombrero and shaggy zapateros, or short trousers made of goat-skin, from which the hair has not been removed. It occurs very frequently that the diligence is attacked and plundered by robbers, and many horrible adventures of that kind are recorded, famishing the passengers no very reassuring matter for conversation, and keeping them in a continual excitement. PaiJer Dresses. 127 To rob a diligence seems not to be disgraceful in Mexico, for though it is committed by common ruffians and thieves, even people of a higher class look upon it as a chez>aleresque sport. There are many well-to-do rancheros or farmers, living quite respectably and otherwise in good repute, of whom it is said that they indulge in this harmless amusement ! The robbers take care to conceal their faces, either by blackening them or in some other manner, and if not resisted, or not in danger of being recognised, they rarely commit murder. They generally ride splendid horses, and are most richly dressed. At some fivourable place, and there are plenty on that road, the mules are "suddenly stopped. The coachman does not even attempt to escape or resist ; it is his policy to remain neu- tral, for if he acted otherwise it would be not only in vain, but cost him his life — a bullet from behind some bush would end his career at his next journey. He therefore in most cases is not molested, remaining a passive spectator of the scene, which is enacted with incredible celerity. Though the escort now and then furnished by the authorities is mostly absent w^hen needed, it sometimes happens that they are at hand, and to escape such danger the robbers are compelled to act without any ceremony. Whilst one of them takes care of the team, two others, cocked pistol in hand, invite the passengers to descend and to undress, as it is well known that they try to conceal their valuables in their clothes. The terror and con- fusion created by such an order may be imagined especially if there are ladies amongst the passengers. An American lady, the wife of a Southern general, who had to travel to Vera Cruz with her daughter, was very much afraid of being subjected to such treatment, which would have des- troyed many illusions created by Parisian toilet art. She therefore, being a very practical lady, provided against such horrible emergency by having made for herself and daughter paper dresses, which being without value would not tempt the cupidity of robbers; She had, however, no opportunity of making use of her ingenious expedient. On this journey, as on all others I made later in Mexico, . was fortunate enough never to encounter any of these way- laying gentry. The road and the landscape scene from it became more and more interesting, but scarcely for the poor mules, which dicl 128 Ten Years of my Life. their utmost to surmount incredible difficulties, and we des- cended frequently^ partly to lessen their load, but still more to escape for a while the severe shaking and bumping which was too much even for us, though used to bad roads in the Ameri- can war. The weather was, however, beautiful and not too hot, for we had entered the region called Terra Templada. The woods which we passed were beautiful, for all the trees were garlanded up to their tops with a great variety of creepers with splendid flowers of the most brilliant colours, vying with those of large butterflies. It was a most charming wilderness, untouched by the hand of man. To our right and our left we saw deep valleys and gulHes overgrown with a confusion of luxuriant trees and plants, concealing torrents of the foaming waters of which we only now and then had a glimpse. One place on this road is called Salsi Puedes — ' Get out if you can.' It was either here »)r at a similar place that our diHgence broke down about noon. In the neighbourhood we saw the hut of an Indian family. Though only built of reeds and covered with aloe-leaves, havin:^ no windows but only a door, it appeared to us far more inviting than any Mexican pulqueria or even hotel, for it was shaded by beautiful trees and overgrown with beautiful flowers, of which the Indians are very fond. They are always to be found in great profusion around their dwellings. The hut, which we entered, had moreover the extremely rare advantage of scrupulous cleanliness, and the Indian couple inhabiting it received us with great hospitality. They served us tortillas, a kind of flat corn-cake, used everywhere in Mexico instead of bread — several kinds of fruit and pulque, the national drink of the Mexicans. It is made from the maguey plant (Agave Americana), in Europe generally called aloe, which with the different species of cacti, growing every- where, give a Mexican landscape its quite peculiar character, differing from that of any other country. The maguey seems to be expressly made for a lazy people as all Mexicans are, either of Indian or European descent, for it requires very litde culture, and furnishes a great many things for common use. There are to be seen very large fields of this plant everywhere, protected by natural fences of cactus plants with most dangerous thorns, making them quite impenetrable. The Maguey. 129 The maguey often reaches the height of eight or nine feet, but grows rather slow, for it requires about ten years to arrive at maturity. Then springs forth from its centre a very high-stem- med flower, more admired in European hothouses than in Mexico, where it is not permitted to bloom. In the period when the plant is preparing for it, a milky juice is collecting in its centre, or heart. This is cut out and a cavity made, which is filled several times a day during three months and longer. A healthy, strong plant will yield in all not rarely one hundred gallons of pulqu^. After having given its heart's-blood to man the plant dies, but from its roots spring up a great many baby- plants, which, removed in time and transplanted, grow up with- out any care. The leaves of the maguey or aloe are used for many pur- poses : the huts are roofed with them, and of their tendrils are made the most excellent cords and ropes ; they are also beaten to a pulp from which paper is fabricated. The cactus is rather a nuisance on account ot ..ts pnckly character, but after all, when in bloom, its peculiar shape and the brilliancy of its yellow or burning-red beautiful flowers, makes it a very original ornament, which I would not miss in a Mexican landscape. Some species bear an eatable fruit, .J similar to a small fig, and one kind serves for the breeding ol a very useful insect, the cochineal. I have not seen such a ])lantation, nor do I know in v/hat part of Mexico this branch of industry is carried on. The Indian couple who treated us with such hospitality liaa the submissive manner and melancholic look of resignation always to be noticed in nations that have been subjugated and ill-treated by barbarians for centuries. I think I am not far wrong in calling thus the Christian Spaniards who conquered Mexico. I shall speak of the Indians afterwards more at length, for they are more interesting to me than the descendants of their conquerors, and 1 am sure that they will recover from their present state of subjection and misery when an enhght- ened and strong government is established in Mexico. This can never be done by the white or Indian Mexicans them- selves, and therefore I hope the United States will find it advi- sable to unite this rich country with their republic. The In- dians of Mexico are different from the savages of California and the more Northern States, and I am sure that with proper 130 Ten Years oj my Life encouragement it would scarcely require fifty years to revive in them the industrial instincts ©t their forefathers. Our friendly Indians were quite enraptured when we gave them some broad pieces, for they are not used to kind treat- ment from the ruling race. Our diligence was repaired sooner than we expected, and we continued our journey. AVe entered in the afternoon a very well cultivated beautiful country, studded with country houses and farms, where we saw large fields of Indian corn, sugar- cane, and coffee and cacao plantations, fine gardens with dif- ferent strange-looking fruit trees and many palm trees. Towards evening we approached the narrow out beautiful valley in which is situated the town ot Orizava, where we were to stop for the night. It is traversed by the rivers ot Orizava, Puerco, and de los Aguacates, and a rather large place with some fine churches ; but most of the private houses are only one-storied, and the streets are irregular. I did not see much of the town, for I was rather fatigued, and though we were badly lodged I was glad to rest my sorely shaken body. Salm heard here that General Negre, to whose staff he was attached, had been transferred from Mexico to Puebla, and that he in consequence would also have to stay there, which he did not like at all. We left Orizava next morning at five o'clock. Though the weather in this latitude and at that time ot the year is very changeable, we were fortunate in this respect and could enjoy the beauty of the country. Our journey was up-hill work, for we ascended the Cordilleras (there called Cumbres), and the road made in olden times by the Spaniards was very much out of repair. At last we reached its highest point, La Canada, and arrived soon at an ugly village. Palmar, situated in a very ugly volcanic country, not much beautified by large maguey fields with cactus inclosures. The frame of this dreary pic- ture was, however, surpassingly beautiful, for it was formed by snow-covered mountains, amongst which are most prominent the Popocatapetl^ the Ixtaccihuatl, &c., compared to which even the Swiss mountains appear dwarfish. It was evening when we reached the plateau of Puebla, nearly seven thousand feet above the sea, and ane of the rich- est parts of Mexico, where not only magueys and cactus and Indian corn are to be seen, but even wheat-fields. I was Fuebla. 131 extremely glad when we arrived in the city of Paebla at nine o'clock P.M. We alighted in the Hotel de Diligencias, where we were lodged comfortably in a large room with three beds. Jimmy, whose night toilet required no preparations, took at once possession of the best of them, and I followed his exam- ple as fast as possible, for I never was more tired in all my life. Next morning Salra reported himself to his general, and re- quested leave of absence for Mexico. He visited General Count Thum, the brother of the Austrian minister, whom he had known in Austria when captain in a regiment of Uhlans. He met here also a former PRissian officer. Count Nostiz, whom we had known in the United States. Puebla once rivalled Mexico, and is still the second city of the empire. It is traversed by the river St. Francisco, and the rivers Atoya and Alzezeca flow near it. This abundance of water offers the means of keeping the streets cleaner than is usually the case in Mexican cities. In the middle of each street runs a stone-covered canal, sweeping away all impurities which otherwise would be thrown into the street. The city is regularly built ; the streets are all paved and pro- vided with side-walks. There are more than twenty squares, large and small, and an immense number of churches — I be- lieve about seventy, the chapels included. I have never seen a city with so many steeples and towers, which are the more prominent on account of the flat roofs of the houses. There are -also many other very fine buildings, for instance, monas- teries and nunneries, hospitals, and three theatres. The principal place of the city is surrounded with wide and lofty portales or arcades, where the Indians exhibit their pro- duce for sale in the daytime, while they sleep there at night, offering the most curious and strange domestic pictures. The city had then only seventy thousand inhabitants, for its number had been diminished in former times by epidemics. The eighteenth century was especially fatal in this respect, for the plague appeared three times, and once it came in connec- tion with famine. The civil wars have also diminished its population and done great harm to its industry. It had for- merly highly-reputed manufactories of fine cloth, glass, china, soap, and cutlery, and even now it is in this respect in advance of Mexico. Everything seems in Puebla more orderly and 182 • Ten Years of wlij Life. more civilized than in the xapital, and "^ne does not see so many poor people either. 'The view of the city is fine from all sides, and is rendered still more so by the great mountain forming the background. Whether the fortifications are very strong I do not know ; the city was, however, taken in 1847 by the Americans, and in 1863 by the French, after a siege of two months. We le'"t Puebla on the 3odi of August, at three o'clock a.m., tor Mexico. We had to pass a mountain lying between the plateau of Puebla and that still higher of Anatruac. This road is not only very bad, but also in very bad repute on account of the many robbers frequenting the neighbourhood of Rio Frio. In an hour or two we reached the region of fir trees, and passed through splendid woods of cedars and fir species of which I do not know the name, but which look extremely pretty, tiieir very long light-green needle foilage hanging down in bundles from the branches. Very soon we saw before us the ]">jatcau ot JNIexico, which is eighteen leagues in length and twelve and a half leagues in width. It is surrounded by the most picturesque range of mountains, among which are seen towering towards the pure blue sky the stupendous snow- covcrcd volcanoes. The panorama presenting itself to the eye is one of the finest and most pleasing in the world. The vast plain is studded with fine fjrms and gardens, and here and there with sheets of water. Here and there, abruptly rising from the green plain, are to be seen hills which 1 was told were extinct volcanoes. It is said that the Spaniards have done much harm by their reckless destruction of woods, which before their arrival cover- ed to a great extent the plateau of Anahuac, and that in con- sequence of this the fine lakes have diminished very much, the springs which once led them beiijg dried up by the sun, against which they were formerly protected by the trees. The view of the city of Mexico is splendid. That is all I will say, tor though T have it vividly before my eye, and could perhaps j)aint it if \ had the mechanical skill, I cannot describe it in words in suci\ a manner as to give the reader a fair idea. I always found even the finest and most skilful descriptions of views and landr.capes insufficient, and never succeeded in forming a disiincl jiicture from them, if I had not seen the landscapes myself before. General Zerman. 133 We arrived in Mexico at eight o'clock in the evening, and drove directly for my husband's lodging in the Puente de San Francisco. I considered it a lucky omen that we entered Mexico on that day, which was the fourth anniversary of my wedding, and we celebrated it next day at a dinner given to us by an acquaintance of Felix, General Zerman. This gentleman had been a General in the United States during the war. I do not exactly know what business brought him to Mexico, nor do I believe he really had any, though he was always very fussy and busy, and talked much about enor- mous claims he had against the United States Government. Without being able to state an exact reason for it, one was in- clined to suspect him of being somewhat of a humbug. He was a great dandy, and had the peculiar fancy of wearing always a grass-green suit. Next day Baron Magnus, the Prussian minister, paid me a visit. Felix on first arriving in Mexico had a letter of intro- duction to him from kind Baron Gerolt, and Baron Magnus had indeed done all he could to assist him. He behaved also in a very friendly manner towards me, and though I might have wished him to act with more energy and decision under circum^ stances where weak diplomatic tactics were of no avail, a too sharp criticism would grate upon my feelings, for towards my husband and myself he acted to the end with great kindness, and it would be ungrateful not to acknowledge it with thank- fulness. Moreover, I overrated perhaps his power and in- fluence in Mexico, and my eagerness to assist the Emperor, and to extricate him if possible from his dangerous position, made me perhaps too exacting and eager for a course of action , which was not allowed to a Prussian minister. I am no diplo- matist, and if I follow my impulse, as I generally do, I am not responsib' ^ to any king or prime minister it I commit a politi- cal blunder; therefore I am perhaps no good judge about the actions of diplomatists. If his Government were satisfied with his behaviour in Mex-ico, he may smile at my unreasonable exactions. The Baron frequently took me out in his carriage to show me the city, \vith which I became well acquainted, as I had to stay there several months. Though Mexico has not been described so frequently by tourists as London and Paris, and a detailed account of its 13-i Toi Years of ^ny Life. beauties, antiquities, &c., might be enteresting to European readers, such a description would overstep the limits of this work, even if I were able to give a satisfactory one, which is by no means the case. I therefore shall only touch superfici- ally on one or the other subject, and give my individual im- pressions, or v/hat I learnt occasionally. 135 CHAPTER IX. Origin of the City of Mexico — The Alameda — The Paseo Nuevo- A Mexican gentleman on horseback — Promenade de la Viga — The float- ing islands— Theatres— Place d'Armes— The Cathedral— The Sangra- lio — Disputacion Iturbide — Aqueducts — The National Museum — The Sanctuario de Guadakipe— Its wonderful origin — The Creole Virgin— Chapultepec — Humming-birds — Mexican houses and life — Mexican ladies — The Indians — A Ranchero — Mexican market. There exist, of course, many traditions in reference to the early inhabitants of Mexico. We should know more of the history of the country if the fanatic first Spanish Archbishop had not carefully collected throughout the whole country all written records of the Indians, and burnt them as heathenish abominations in the principal square of Mexico. About a thousand years ago the country was inhabited by a very industrious, highly civilized, and good-natured people, the Toltekes. They disappeared, however, and were replaced by ' the Chichimekes, a barbarous people of hunters, whose de- scendants are to be found still in several provinces of Mexico. In the twelfth century seven tribes of the Nahuatlakes came from the north and occupied the country. One of these tribes was that of the Aztekes. These wandered for a long period from one place to the other without deciding on a final settlement, on account of an old oracle ordering them to con- tinue their peregrinations until they should find a cactus (nopal) growing from a rock and an eagel sitting on it Arrived on the plateau of Anahuac and on the banks of a lake, their priests really saw an eagle sitting on a nopal plant growing from a rocky mould. They now decided on remaining here, and called their cown Tenochtitlan, which means, ' nopal on a rock.' From this the Mexican arms derive their origin. 1.36 Ten Years of my Life. The town was later called Mexico, which either comes frorh an Indian word signifying a fountain, or more probably from Mexitli, the name of one of their principal idols. As the date of the fountain of Tenochtitlan is given the i8th July, 1327. At the time when Cortez arrived in Mexico the city had 300,000 inhabitants. 1 shall not speak of its past splendour, for it is described in hundreds of books containing the history of the Conquest. But all this splendour, all the magnificent buildings, have been destroyed, for Cortez, furious at the resis- tance of the Aztekes, destroyed their city on the 13th of August, 1 521, and very soon commenced to rebuild it after a new plan. ' Thus originated the present city of Mexico, which is now inhabited by 200,000 people. It is six leagues in circumfer- ence, and has four hundred and eighty-two streets, which are mostly straight, paved, and provided with side-walks. There are sixty large and smaller squares, fifteen monasteries, twenty- two nunneries, seventy-eight churches and chapels, three great iheatres, two arenas for bull-fights, three principal promenades, len hospitals, &c. The streets of Mexico are extremely long and mostly wide. The houses have never more than two storeys, and on the out- side look extremely plain and monotonous. They have all the appearance of huge cubes, on account of their flat roofs. These flat roofs form a kind of yard, and are always surrounded with a breast-high wall. Like all Spanish cities, Mexico has its Alameda. Don Luis > Velasco, one of the earliest viceroys, commenced it in 1593. It closed then the Quemadero, the place where the Inquisition burnt more poor Indians than the priests of the Aztekes slaugh- tered in honour of Vitzliputzli. The establishment of a pleasure- ground near this horrid place was at that time not thought improper, for the burning of heretics and wretches who could not understa-nd the mysteries of the Christian religion was then a very fashionable, and at the same time religious, recreation. At the end of the eighteenth century, religion had become less ferocious, and the Viceroy, Count de Revillagigedo, who orna- mented and enlarged the Alameda to its present extent, removed this disgraceful abomination. The ^\■hole Alameda forms an oblong square of five hundred yards by two hundred and sixty, and is enclosed by a wall, Promenade de Bitcarelli. 137 along which are stone benches. The whole place is traversed by numerous walks, formed by different shady trees, and em- bellished with flower-beds and a number of fountains, amongst which are two ornamented with statues, and otherwise in a taste- ful manner. Though the grounds looked somewhat neglected, the Alam- eda is a very agreeable place, of which the Mexicans are rather proud. It is especially interesting in the morning, w'hen the ladies returning from church, and the gentlemen from their promenades on horseback, meet in the shady avenues, talking and flirting, or sitting ofe the benches to listen to the music of the French band, which played several days in the week from eight until ten o'clock. Most of the popular festivals, for inst- ance, Independence Day — September 13 — are celebrated in the Alameda. Another fashionable promenade for carriages and equestrians, the Rotton Row of Mexico, is the Promenade de Bucarelli, so called because it was inaugurated by the Viceroy, Antonio Maria BucarelH, in 1778 ; now it is more frequently called II Paseo Nuevo. It is a very long avenue, formed b) four rows of ugly, crippled trees. The carriage-road in t}ie middle, and those at each side of it for equestrians, are badly kept. There are some fountains with rather ugly statues, and also a large equestrian bronze statue of Charles IV. of Spain, made by the sculptor, Don Manule Tolsa. The Mexicans imagine that it is the most perfect statue ui the world, and it is indeed a credit- able work. It is more than five yards high, and stands on a pedestal of stone, and within an iron railing. It was at first placed on the great square, but lest it might be destroyed by the people it was removed by the Government to a less exposed place and finally transported, in 1852, to the Paseo Nuevo. Not far from this statute we find the Plaza de Toros, a cir- cular wooden building of seventy yards diameter, with two tiers of boxes and seven rows of benches, where ten thousand persons may find room. The building looks quite elegant with its many columns. The first bull-fight in Mexico w^as held in the time of Fernando Cortez. The beau-monde of Mexico drive there in the afternoon, at six o'clock. It is indeed a caricature of Hyde Park, for scarcely any decent carriages are to be seen, and many of them look as if they had been built at the time of the Conquest. 1S8 Ten Years of my Life, The animals drawing these vehicles are suited to them, for the horses of that country do not easily submit to this service, and mules are almost always preferred. Though the turn-outs may not bear comparison with those of Hyde Park or the Bois de Boulogne, the ladies sitting in these closed boxes may vie in beauty with any in the world. They appear on the Paseo always in evening toilet — that is, low dresses and flowers in the hair. The gentlemen are there on their finest horses and in their richest riding costumes. When walking in the street they look like European gentlemen, but for riding on horseback they always wear a peculiar rich and becoming costume. All of them have a large brimmed sombreros more or less gorgeously ornamented with gold tassels and cords. Their short jackets of cloth are set with arabesques in braid, and with a great quantity of small silver buttons; Over their ordinary trousers they wear others, which reach only from the foot to the knee ; they are very wide, cover the whole foot, and arc richly em- broidered with gold and silver. They look indeed very elegant on horseback, and when dismounting they ahvays reminded me of that peculiar kind of pigeons which have their feet covered with long feathers. The silver spurs they use are remarkably large, with wheels like saucers. The Mexican horses are extremely fine, intelligent and strong, but rather small. They are as much covered with finery as their masters, and even more. The saddles are, I might say, the opposite of English saddles, for they are more like a chair with large pommels and high backs, covered with silver ornaments. Behind the saddle is always fastened the serape of the rider, a kind of long plaid used by both sexes. The silver-studded bridle seems to me the most cruel thing imaginable, for the curb, a very large iron ring, is so sharp that the jaw of a horse might easily be broken by it. The reins are a many coloured silk cord. Behind the saddle hang from both sides shaggy goat-skins, v^'hich serve as covers for the, pistol-cases. A lasso is also attached to the saddle. Mexican gentlemen appear accoutred in this manner as well on the promenade as on a journey ; and I must say that they look extremely picturesque. From the statue of Charles IV., the barrier at the end ot the promenade, the distance is nearly twelve hundred yards. Chapulte2')ec. 139 The principal fountain is about in the middle. To the right and left of the avenue are rather wet meadows, serving; as a pasture for cattle. It is a pity that they are not planted with trees and shrubs, and laid out as a park. No finer place in the whole world could be found, for nowhere is to be had a more charming view Vvherever the eye may look. Towards the east, beyond a beautiful plain covered with fine clusters of trees and studded with villas, is seen, on rocks, the aid palace of Chapultepec, from whence comes the excellent drinking water, brought there by splendid aqueducts, which unfortunately are much out of repair in consequence of the civil wars. Looking towards the south-west, we see on the bluish back- ground of the mountains several fine villages, as Mixcoai, ' florido,' Padierno and Churubusko, ' ensangrentados,' San Angel, and Coyoacom ; whilst turning to the south-east we admire the mountain giants, Popocateptl and Ixtaccihuatl, whose snowy heads seem to pass through the blue of the sky. Turning towards the west we see the hundred towers of Mexico. The Promenade de la Viga is that of the people, and who- ever wants to become acquainted with the habits, tastes, and peculiarities of the middle and lower classes of Mexicans will find here the best opportunity. The Canal de la Viga serves as a means of communication between the two lakes of the plain of Mexico, called Texcoco and Chalco. The ancient Tenochtitlan resembled Venice, for it was crossed by an immense number of canals, which in re- ality formed its streets. The Canal de la Viga is the only one remaining. The promenade runs along it, and is m.ost fre- quented in the months of April and May, especially at the hour between six and seven p.m. It is much enlivened by the many people who embark here to visit neighbouring villages, for which purposes there are always a great many pirogues ready, conducted by Indians. The two favourite villages are Santa Anita and Ixtacalco, situate on the Canal de la Viga, and about a league from Mexico. They are inhabited only by Indians, and probably have not changed since the Conquest. There are still to be seen the old Mexican 'chinampas,' or floating islands, in which are grown the most beautiful flowers and vegetables. Similar 14rO Ten Years of my Life. establishments, I heard from a traveller friend, are to be found also in the neighbourhood of Canton in China. All the inhabitants of these villages have such little gardens, from which they earn their living. They make more than twelve thousand piastres a year by selling flowers in Mexico. The construction of these fertile floating islands is very simple. The foundation is a sufliciently thick float made of rushes, and on this is laid good garden soil. In spring especially these floating gardens offer a most charming and original sight, although they are, on account of their humidity, all the year round covered with flowers and vegetables. It is quite surpris- ing to see the manner in which they are occasionally trans- ported from one place to another, which is very simply done by attaching them to a pirogue directed by two Indians. From the first Sunday after Ash Wednesday until Whit-Sun- day the pirogues at the Promenade de la Viga are always crowded, each containing sometimes fifty people sitting on the board, whilst in the centre three or four musicians make a musical noise, not very sweet to the ear, but satisfactory to one or two couples of female dancers, executing the Jarabe, Pala- ma, or other popular dances. All these people amuse .them- selves amongst the Indians with eating and drinking pulque until sunset, when they return to the city crowned with roses or other flowers, and loaded with bouquets. Mexico has four or five theatres, of which two are excellent. The Theatre Iturbide is a very fine building, and would be an ornament to any European city. Its interior is not only very elegant and tasteful, but also very, convenient and spacious. There are several tiers of boxes with fine white columns orna- mented with golden garlands of flowers, and behind them everywhere great saloons and other rooms, provided with all comforts required for the toilet, for the ladies appear always in full dress, and the excellent light from a splendid crystal lustre permits them to be seen and admired. Amongst the many squares of the Mexican capital, the Place d'Armes is the largest and finest, for it is surrounded by the most remarkable buildings of the city. It is a large parallelo- gram with a candelabra in its centre, within a square walk shaded by two rows of trees. It is entirely paved and kept tolerably clean. ,On its north side stands the Cathedral of Mexico, on the AzteJdc Science. 141 identical place where once stood the ' TeocalH,' or Temple of Vitxliputzli, or, rather, Huitzilopotchli, the god of war of the Aztekes. It was commenced in 1573 by order of Philip II., and finished only in 1657. It is built of large cubes of por- phyry, and stands on an estrade, and is surrounded by a walk formed by columns of two yards" in height, and connected by chains. At a distance from these columns are planted pine- trees. At each of two corners of the ' cadenas,' or chain-closed walk, stand on a pedestal of five yards in height four death's- heads, and a cross with a serpent around its foot. 1 cannot give a minute description of this imposing building, as I do not understand much of architecture. The style m which the cathedral is built seems to me a mixed one. Doric and Ionic columns are alternately used in the two square towers, which are seventy-three yards high, and have bell- shaped tops with a cross on them. The principal front looking towards the south, had three entrances, which are ornamented with statutes and alto relievos. At the side of one of the towers is a very curious relic of Azetekic science, a gigantic kind of almanac, which is about fourteen yards in circumference. It is made of solid stone, and on it are many symbolic figures. This interesting anti- quity was found, in 1790, buried in the ground. In the towers are forty-eight bells, of which the largest is six yards high, and called Santa Maria de Guadalupe. The interior of the cathedral consists of five naves, of which two are closed and three open. The lofty and boldly-arched vaults rest on large clusters of Ionic columns. There are in the church fourteen closed chapels and six altars, besides the principal, which stands in the centre. It may be approached from all four sides by seven large steps, and is enclosed by a balustrade made of tombac, on which stand sixty-two statutes of the same metal, each holding in his hands a candelabra filled with wax candles. This balustrade and similar work in this cathedral were made in Macao, in China. This chief altar reaches nearly to the ceiling. It is a pity that the fine proportions of this cathedral are spoilt by so many little chapels and compartments, and also by painted wooden statues of saints, &c., and other flimsy ornaments. The ornaments of the principal altar are, however, no"" 142 Ten Years of my Life. flimsey at all ; most of theiu are made of solid gold, and some set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, &a One golden cibor- ium is embellished by 1,676 diamonds. One of these vessels — I really do not know how it is called — which is a yard high, and weighs eighty-eight marks in gold, has on one of its sides 5.872 diamonds, and another 2,653 emeralds, forty-four rubies, eight sapphires, &c. The value of this altar must be enormous, and I only wonder that the different Revolutionary Govern- ments, which frequently were in want of money, did not borrow from the church. One golden statute, weighing 6,984 golden castellanos (an old coin), and set with precious stones, has, however, found its way to the crucible. Close to the cathedral, and spoiling somewhat its effect, is the parish church of Mexico, called the Sangrario. On that place stood the oldest cluirch in Mexico, which was burned down, and was rebuilt at the end of the seventeenth centurv in rococo style — which in Germany is sometimes railed pigtail style. The faQade is, however, very neatly and elaborately made, but spoilt by some statutes of extremely ugly saints. Opposite the cathedral, forming the southern side of the Place d'Armes, is the town hall, or Disputacion. The old building was destroyed in a riot caused by a famine. The Viceroy had bought all the Indian corn to be had everywhere, it is said, to distribute it to the people ; but, the people said, to sell it at high prices for his own benefit. The damage done at this riot was estimated at three million piastres. The new building is a fine substantial structure of two stories, with arcades on the ground floor and balconies to each window of the first floor. One of the two other sides of the square is occupied by the National Palace, the official dwelling of the Viceroys, as also ot" the Emperor Iturbide. It is no particular ornament to the place. At the opposite side we find the most elegant shops of Mexico, and also coft'ee-houses and restaurants. One ot the finest buildings in Mexico is the Mining School — II Colegio de IMineria— built of green porphyry. Mexicans also much admire the house of Iturbide, so called because this general lived here, when one fine night — i8th May, 1822 — a sergeant had the idea of proclaiming General Iturbide Em- peror of Mexico. The people caught up this cry, and the General Santa Anna. 143 general had no objection to ascend the old throne of Monte- zuma. On July 2 1, he was crowned as Emperor Augustin I. Several European princes, to whom this dangerous crown had been offered, had refused. General Santa Anna, a very ambitious and intriguing man, who had been a great favourite of Iturbide, fell off from him, and headed an insurrection, in consequence of which the new Emperor had to fly, in 1S20, with his family to Europe. Re- lying on his popularity, he returned to Mexico in the summer of 1824, was taken prisoner, and shot. His name is, however, still popular, and many places and establishments in Mexico bear his name. The house in which he lived, and which is built in rococo style, is now an hotel, and called by its industrious owner ' Hotel Iturbide.' I have mentioned already the aqueducts, which convey good water from two different directions. For drinking it is always iced, as in the United States, and the Mexican mountains, especially the Popocatopetl, furnish plenty of this absolutely necessary commodity. Great quantities are also imported from North America. At the end of the aqueduct of Belen, which comes from the inexhaustible basin of Chapultepec, has been built in rococo style a fountain, called Salto del Agua. It is more curious than pretty, and by no means embellished by two ugly sitting female figures. In the centre there is an alto relievo, repre- senting the arms of Mexico as the Spanish kings wanted it. It is a European eagle, with a cross on its breast, holding a shield with arms around it. The Republic has accepted the old Azteke eagle, sitting on a cactus. More interesting than the structure of this fountain is the life around it, and amongst the people crowding there the aguadores, or water carriers, occupv the most prominent place. They fill with this water large bul- let-shaped earthen vessels with handles, which they carry by means of leather straps fastened over their shoulders, or some times their heads. Their cries of ' Agua ' are heard all day. They pour the water into the large stone filters, which are every- where. I shall mention here that bath-rooms are in almost every house, and there are also many public baths. The Mexican ladies generally take their baths after returning from their 144 Ten Years of ony Life. morning promenade in the Alameda, and afterwards they are to be seen walking on the lei;races of their houses drying their mostly very rich long hair, hanging around them like a cloak. Some of the convents would perhaps deserve a description ; but I am tired of architecture. Interesting is a visit to the National Museum, on account of the Indian antiquities. I shall not venture on an explana- tion and description of all the very curious ugly idols collected there. Most of the statues remind me of those of the Egypt- ians, as seen in the Museum in London and in the Louvre ; whilst other things one remembers having seen amongst the Chinese curiosities. These antiquities make us acquainted with many customs and the domestic life of the Aztekes, and I am sure, if some able persons would examine the ground half as carefully as it has been done in Italy and Greece, many things would be found which might give ample information in reference to the history of the country, which now, as stated before, is very imperfect, thanks to the imbecile act of the first Archbishop. On seeing the many things collected in this museum, and admiring the workmanship and the high polish of extremely hard substances, one wonders in what manner they could have done it, since the Aztekes had neither steel nor iron, though plenty of copper, silver, gold, pewter, and lead. The silver and golden jewellery of the Aztekes is indeed wonderful. They understood also the art of enamelling. Amongst the many interesting trifles I noticed a kind of or- nament, shaped like a little sombrero, and made of obsidian, and was rather astonished on learning that it was a military de- coration. It called tentetl (lip-stone) because it was worn in the under-lip; I suppose in the same manner as I have seen it in pictures representing some Indian tribe of South America. This decoration was awarded to warriors, not those who killed enemies, but those who made them prisoners, leaving the kill- ing probably for the priests. In some of these tentls were fastened small bunches of the brilliant feathers of humming- birds, and I suppose this was a higher class of the order, like the bows, leaves, swords, &c., attached as a distinction to several Prussian orders. All the servants of the Mexican Em- ptTor had tne privilege of v/earing such tentetls made of rock crystal. Sanctuario de Guadalupe. 145 As I have not described any of the convents of the city, I shall make up for this negHgence by speaking more at length of the most holy place in the whole empire, only one league from Mexico ; it is the Sanctuario de Guadalupe. Before describing it, I must first state the miracle from which it origi- nated. What effective means the conquistadores employed in con- vincing the Indian heathens of the truth of Christianity I have mentioned already, and many Indians, though not very well understanding all the mysteries of the religion, found it not hard to change their ugly idols for the Holy Virgin and the saints, whose images looked far more attractive. It was ten years after the Conquest, in the year 1531, when there lived in the village of Tolpetlac a recently-converted Indian, who had received in baptism the name of Juan Diego. I-Ie v\^as a good man, and frequently went to Santiago Tlalti- luclo, where the Franciscans taught the Christian religion. Once, when crossing a mountain ridge, which ended near the lake of Texcoco, in a point, called the ' Nose of the hill,' — in Spanish ' Nariz del cerro,' and in Indian 'Tepetlyecaczol,' — he heard some extremely sweet music, of a kind that he had never heard either amongst the Spaniards or his own people. Looking wonderingly around he saw a rainbow, far more bril- liant than he had ever seen, and, framed by it, and in the mid- dle of a white transparent cloud, a very sweet-looking hand- some lady, dressed like one of the court ladies of his late heathenish Emperor. The poor ignorant man did not guess who she was, but was not afraid, and approaching her, she told him that she was ' the Mother of God,' and wanted the erec- tion of a temple in her honour on that very spot, promising protection to all those who would pray there, and ordering Juan Diego to tell the Bishop what he had seen and heard. Fray Don Juan de Zuniiirraga; a Franciscan, and Bishop of Merico, would not believe in the story, and sent the Indian away. The Holy Virgin, however, was not satisfied with this and appeared to him three times again. Troubled in his mind, and not daring to go again to the Bishop, he resolved to confide in a confessor, whom he would consult also about his uncle, Juan Bernardino, who was very dangerously ill. Afraid of encountering again ' the Mother of God,' he took another road ; but at a place, which is still to be secognised, 146 Ten Years of 'my Life, which seems rather strange, by a smell of brimstone, and a spring of which the water has tke taste of that suspicious min- eral, she appeared for the fifth time, told him that his uncle was perfectly well again, and ordered him to gather roses on the sumit of the mountain, which he should bring to the Bishop as a token that all he had told was true. Now, on that mountain had never before grown anything but thistles and thorns ; but when the Indian went there, he found the most beautiful and most odoriferous flowers, which he put in his tihna, and went to the Bishop. This gentleman, on being informed of the errand of the Indian, came, with some priests running eagerly after him. Juan Diego told his adventure in all his simplicity^ and when untying the two ends of his tilma, to produce the roses, lo ! the Bishop and all the priests fell on their knees as if struck by lightening, for on theayateof the fortunate Indian was impressed the image of the Holy Virgin, as the face of our Saviour was impressed on the handkerchief of St. Veronica. Now of course all doubts were removed : the miracle was evident. It happened on the 12th of December^ i53i> ten years and four months after the Conquest, under the pontifi- cate of Clevent VII., and during the reign of the Emperor Charles V. What appears to me especially wonderful is, that on the celestial picture the Holy Virgin is not only represented in an Indian dress, but also an Indian face and complexion ; though I ought not to wonder, knowing that she appeared in Africa like a negress, and having seen in Rome a picture of the Mother of God with a black face. When the Bishop recovered from his stupefaction he over- whelmed the blessed Indian with compliments, and went out to visit the places sanctified by the apparations. He took the miraculous picture first to his house, and transferred it a few days later to the Cathedral. This picture is painted, probably by some angel, on a cloth woven from the fibres of some Mexican plant, and made by Indians. The Holy Virgin wears a tunic of woollen stuff,, descending from the neck to the feet, and her head is covered by a manto ; in a word, the costume of a noble and rich Azteke lady. Her complexion is brown, her hair black, her expression timiable, humble and open. This image is called the Creole Virgin. • Lei Cervito. 147 Obedient to the order of the J^Iother of God, the Bishop erected first a hermitage of adobes — air-dried unburnt bricks — v>'here the miraculous picture was transported in 1853. Juan Diego built for himself a little house close by, and died there after seventeen }'ears, at the age of seventy-four. His uncle, eighty-six years old, died, and was buried in the chapel. This chapel was, in the year 1663, replaced by a more worthy building, which cost 800,000 piastres, and the many worshippers behaved so liberally, that the sanctuary could soon be ornamented with sacred vessels richer than even those in the Cathedral. Many, however, had to go to the crucible during the war. The Cathedral, standing now at the foot of the still sterile and bare hills, is a very extensive building, Avith six towers. Higher up the hill, at the place where the Virgin appeared for the first time, has been built also a chapel called Del Cerrito, and around the sanctuary has sprung up a place, which, since the declaration of independence, has been created a town. The people of the highet classes worship there every 12th of each month, but on the 12th of December takes place the great festival, in which partake the Chief of the Government and all the authorities. It is celebrated with a splendour which is scarcely surpassed in Rome. The Indians have still another festival, at which they dance old Indian dances, and much dis- order takes place. In 1 82 1, the Emperor Iturbide instituted here the Mexican order of Guadalupe, which was abolished for a time, but re- established again in 1853 by Santa Anna. It is the highest Mexican order, and Salm was very proud when he received it from the Emperor IMaximilian, in Queretaro. There are connected with Guadalupe several historical remi- niscences, but I cannot exactly remember them, and will only mention that here the peace with the United States was con eluded on Frebruary 2, 1848. Having seen from- the new promenade Chapultepec, my curiosity was roused, and the more so as the Emperer Maxi- milian and Empress Carlotta seemed to have a particular liking for that place, which was once the residence of the Viceroys. The blood-sucking Viceroys had disappeared from there but it seems that they left behind a legion of not less blood-thirsty though small substitutes, which even dared attack the Imperial Ii8 Ten Years of my Life. blood of the Hapsburgs in such a ferocious manner that on the first night which the Imperial touple passed in Chapultepec they had to fly before them, and pitch their beds on the open terrace. The palace is a long, narrow, ugly building, standing on a bare hill, which is enclosed by fortitications, through which leads a very low and miserable staircase. The Emperor established himself, however, in a pavilion standing on the utmost edge of the rock, and containing only a itw rooms, but whence the view is enrapturing. The whole valley of Mexico is before us, and every house in the city is to be seen distinctly, for Cha- pultepec is only half an hour's drive from it. The Cathedral of Guadalupe, leaning against the ridge of Tepeyayac, is also before us in all its splendour. The bare hill on which the vice-royal palace is built is sur- rounded by a natural park, such as is not to be found any- where in this wide world. What are the Central Park in New York, Regent's Park in London, the Bois de Boulogne in Paris, the Bieberich Park on the Rhine, the Prater in Vienna — nay, even the pride of Berlin, the Thiergarten — what are they all in comparison to this venerable and delightful spot, with its Ahuehuetes trees, which were there already in the golden age of Mexico, when still the benevolent Quatzalcoatl, the god of the air, lived amongst the gentle people of the Toltekes? Under the shade of these green vaults, even the bloody conqueror Cortez's heart felt softened at the side of his enchantress, Malitzin. There are still the basins where bathed the many pretty Indian wives of Montezuma. On entering this natural temple, a delicious shudder creeps over your whole body, and you dare scarcely speak aloud. From the emerald green ground rise the gigantic Ahuehuetes trees, a kind of cypress, of which the enormous branches stretch widely out, and hang down like those of European firs. They stand on a pedestal formed by the curiously twisted and interlaced roots, from which spring forth their cord-like stems, wound around each other as in a cable, but more irregular, and forming thus the strange-looking trunks which have a cir- cumference of at least twelve or fifteen yards. As if the green of their foliage was not thought becoming to their venerable age, the trees are covered up to their tops with a silk-like silvery-grey parasite plant, hanging down in rich, slightly curling locks. Humraivg-Birds. 149' The monotony of this uniform green and grey colour is relieved now and then by trees of a lighter green with yellow drooping flowers and grape-like pink fruits, and beautillil coloured butterflies and birds, amongst them the gem of the winged tribe, the sweet humming-bird. It occurs also in North America, and even as far north as New York. I never had, however, a better opportunity of observing and admiring this graceful little creature than in Washington. There stands in the Capitol garden, close to one of the principal walks, a red-blooming, peculiar kind of chest- nut tree, v»^hich has quite a reputation amongst ornithologists, and I heard that a celebrated English naturalist declared this tree alone to be worth a voyage to America. The juice of the red chestnut flower must have a peculiar sweetness and attraction, for when the tree is in blossom humming-birds are swarming around it like bees. Sitting on a bench opposite that tree 1 have observed them for hours. When drinking the nectar from a flower with their long tongue, they behave just in the same manner as those butterflies or moths do which are to be seen in summer evenings before some flower as if fixed in the air. The movement of the little wings is so quick that they cannot be seen, and one wonders how that little sparkling body is thus suspended in the air. Having robbed the flower of its sweetness, they whisk away like lightning to kiss another. I like them best when they are resting on a branch smoothing their little feathers. They are so tame and so little afraid of man tliat it would be very easy to catch them with a butterfly-net, which I fortunately never saw in all America, for young gentlemen there of ten or twelve years have more serious occupations than catching butterflies 1 They commence already to flirt and learn to chew tobacco. The negro boys sometimes entrap the poor humming-birds when they venture into the deep calix of some large flower, by stealing near and closing the entrance with their hands. I shall not describe now all the fine pjlaces near Mexico, but do so occasionally. The interior of Mexican houses is more agreeable and pleasing than the exterior. A staircase leads to an open gallery surrounding the yard. It is ornamented with flowers, and the floor is covered with mats and provided with benches. From this gallery the rooms are entered. The parlours in the 150 Ten Years of "iny Life. houses of the richer classes are often brilliantly furnished, though not always in good taste. The Mexicans are very fond of gilding, and they have frequently gilded tables and other furniture. In the bedrooms the bed is the only thing recommendable, for it is very large and mostly made of iron, which is necessary on account of insects ; all the other accom- modations are very primitive, and the luxury of cleanliness is not much appreciated. Sheets are almost always made of cotton, and so are tablecloths and napkins, and their miserable state very frequently forms a strange contrast with the rich furniture and plate. Though the Mexicans are a lazy people, they rise early. The gentlemen have their morning ride and the ladies go to church, and from there to the Alameda. This is the only oc- casion on which they appear in the street on foot. Returned home, they take a bath and make their toilet. They lunch between twelve and one. The Mexicans are very frugal, and that is one good quality at least to praise, even in the gentlemen. They do not drink much, either spirits or wine or beer, though pulque appears everywhere on the table. They live mostly very regularly and decently, but gambling is the besetting sin of many of them. The men are generally rather little and delicate-looking, but very well formed, with extremely small hands and feet. They are very polite and reserved and courteous, as if always on their guard against being imposed upon. They have good reason for it ; for Mexicans are not reliable. They promise readily, and are always at your service with words, but are not to be trusted. Fifty years of civil war would demoralise better nations than the descendants of Cortez's rapacious crew. They love money, and have no scruples whatever in reference to the means of getting it, and to rob the Republic as much as possible is cpnsidered more a merit than a sin. Whoever gets a high position uses it for this purpose. Though avaricious and grasping in this sense, they are sometimes liberal and reck- less of expense, as is usual with gamblers. In general they are very hospitable, and at their dinner-table are always laid covers for guests who may drop in. Frugal as they usually are, the tables are loaded with everything when they give parties. The ladies are very pretty, and generally excel in the rich- ness of tlieir black hair, there large black and melancholy Family Life in Mexico. 151 eyes, and small feet and hands. They are very graceful in their movements, but mostly very delicate. They marry very early, sometimes at fourteen or fifteen years, and have gener- ally many children. It is no rare case to see a mother with a dozen or more. The children are very delicate, and a great many die young. They are very quiet and well-behaved ; and I never saw them romping or quarrelhng as healthy children do in other countries. The mothers mostly nurse them them- selves, and are very fond of them, but bring them up in a very injudicious manner. They treat them like dolls, and to dress them nicely seems their principal care. The children are very intelhgent, and progress very fast, but only up to their tenth or twelfth year. After that they do not advance in their intellectual developement. The family life in Mexico is rather pleasing. Husband and wife are always seen together, and they live mostly at home and within the circle of their relations. Parents do not like to part with their daughters, and if they marry, it is by no means rare for their husbands to estabUsh themselves in the houses of their fathers or mothers-in-law, living at their expense. The ladies are extremely ignorant. They do not read any- thing else but their prayer-book, and are scarcely able to write their necessary letters. They do not know any language but Spanish, and of geography or history they have no idea. That Paris was the capital of France they knew even before the arrival of the French, and about London they had heard also, for from these cities they received their dresses and furni- ture and other luxuries. Of Rome they would not know any- thing if the Pope did not reside there, and that fact is the only thing they know. They are, however, fond of music and singing, and have talent for it, and also good voices. There are many who play the piano very well. There is no regular dinner in their houses. If hungry, they eat a simple dish or take a cup of chocolate, which is very good, but much mixed with cinnamon. Coffee is grown in Mexico, and it is excellent, but they do not understand how to prepare it. At six o'clock the ladies drive to the promenade, and after it to the opera, where they take their young daughters dressed up to their best. If there is no opera, they pass the evening at home, and amuse themselves with playing at cards, or with 152 Ten Years of my Life. music and singing. The young folks come also together for a hop, or a tertulla, as such a ciaTicing party is called in JMexico. Though there are about half a million of negroes amongst the eight millions of inhabitants in Mexico, there are scarcely any in the city of Mexico. The house servants are Indians, mostly young girls, who are very kindly and familiarly treated. They are very clever with their hands, and there are many amongst them who embroider extremely well. More than half the population of the country are Indians. Those living in the plateau of Mexico and neighbourhood are the descendants of the Aztekes, who three hundred years ago astonished the Spaniards by their civilisation, which many say was more advanced than even that of the ancient Egyptians, The conquerors, who expected to encounter savages, saw in their sumptuous city splendid buildings, ornamented with ob- jects of art, and a highly developed industry. Though not acquainted with iron or steel, they understood how to cut the hardest stones, and to work in gold and silver, in a manner which is still admired. Their clothes were fine, and in many sciences they were at least as far advanced as most of the rude Spaniards who came to betray their hospitality. What has become of this intelligent, industrious people? The manner in which the English treated the North American Indians, bad and unjust as it was, may find at least some ex- cuse in the stubbornness of these savages, with which they refused all attempts to civilise them ; but the Aztekes were no savages, and if their priests were cruel, they were really not more so than the fanatical Christian priests, who, instead of teaching them the religion of love, punished them for the mis- fortune of their religious errors by burning them wholesale, and treating them worse than wild animals. Tyranny and slavery have everywhere the same debasing effect, of which history furnishes so many instances that it would be superfluous to mention any, whilst liberty is every- where the mother of industry and progress. Persecuted and oppressed as the Indians were, they fled to the woods, where they were not molested by the conquering race, but were deprived of all means of education. Their children grew up in ignorance, and even their mechanical skill vanished almost entirely in the course of time. They were satisfied to live^ and as bountiful Nature let them find easily Indian Traders. 153 the means of existence, they sank lower and lower. No won- der that they are shy and suspicious, especially towards the masters of their country ; for whenever they are treated with kindness they show that they have very kind hearts, are faith- ful and loving, and are desirous of learning. This desire is very rarely satisfied, for the Europeans, igno- rant themselves, were satisfied with using them as working animals. They never looked upon them as entitled to any rights, and still less as brethren, as their religion urged them to do. Not even the priests who lived amongst them took the trouble to educate them and to enlighten their minds ; they were satisfied with teaching them the mechanical part ot their religion, to make them Christians by name. When the conquerors spread all over the country, the In- dians could not keep themselves altogether apart from them, especially in the neighbourhood of cities. By this contact a new kind of civilisation was created amongst them. Becom- ing soon aware of the value of money, and seeing that they could get some by selling their services or the products of their soil to their lazy masters, they availed themselves of this oppor- tunity, and we see them in Mexico everywhere engaged in all kinds of inferior trades. They are indeed the purveyors of Mexico, and come there from many miles to sell their fruit or fowls, or other products of their little industry. The women work more than the men, and with their chil- dren on their back, together with a heavy load, always running at a short trot, they may be seen on all roads. Their dress is very simple. A piece of blue cotton stuff is rolled around their waist, falling down to their feet. Their shoulders and breast are covered by a cotton cloth of some other colour, with a hole in the centre through which passes their head. In the Tyrol I have seen pieces of carpet used in a similar manner. The dress of the men is still more imperfect. Round the waist they have fastened a leather, which they tie in such a manner as to form a kind of breeches. Their shoulders are covered in the same manner as those of the women, and on their head they wear a straw hat. The women have large fine eyes, somewhat obliquely placed, and are very well made ; many amongst them are pretty, but amongst some of the tribes they are rather ugly. The men do not look so strong as they are, to judge from the loads which 154} Ten Years of my Life. they can carry vvith apparent ease. The skin of the Indians is brown, but not more so ^han that of gipsies ; their hair is black, their teeth very fine, and the beard is with the men not much developed. Not a few amongst the followers of Cortez married rich Azteke girls, and from such unions, which became more and more frequent in time, sprung up a bastard race — Creoles. Many of them are rancheros or farmers, and these are con- sidered as the best part of the nation. Amongst them are very rich people, and as they have not much opportunity of getting rid of their money — gambling excepted — they love to wear very rich dresses. I have described the riding costume of a Mexican gentleman. That of the rich ranchero is similar, but differs in some trifles. He wears white drawers reaching to the knee, and these are fastened by fine garters to the leathern zepateros, embroidered in different colours. Under the garters hangs by a steel chain a sharp knife, to cut the lasso if required. Over his drawers he wears trousers, open at one side from the knee down, and set with large fine buttons, mostly of solid silver, but not rarely of gold, each consisting of the largest gold coin of the country. Such a pair of ' cal- zoneras ^ are worth a whole fortune. His jacket is made of coffee-coloured leather, and set with silver cords on the shoulders and its back part. His large hat — ' jarano ' — with wide gold- laced rims, is ornamented with silver and gold, and from his belt of crimson silk hang down behind golden tassels. Of course, saddle and bridle are richly studded with silver and gold. The hind-part of the horse is covered by a brilliant anguera ; the lasso is behind the saddle, and a sword is fastened to the latter. Round his neck the ranchero generally wears a crimson silk neckerchief He looks extremely picturesque, and would make a prominent figure in any circus. The amusements and sports of these people are rather rude. Their greatest pleasure is to show their skill and strength against the bull. One of their amusements seems to be very difficult to the performer and rather disagreeable to the bull. The poor fellow is frightened in some manner or another, and when running away he is followed by a crowd of rancheros on horseback. Whoever approaches him first catches hold of his tail with his right hand, draws up his right knee to use it as a sup})ort for the elbow, and with a skilful strong twist the bull is knocked off his legs, after which the rider runs on. Mexican Marlcets. 155 Even more difficult and far more dangerous is what they call ' barbearal becerro.' The bold ranchero approaches the bull on foot, and not from behind, but in front ; seizes with one hand one of its ears, with the other its snout, and then twisting its neck with a sudden jerk brings the bull to the ground. The class of people in Mexico between the rich classes and the Indians do not dress in the French style, nor in the simple style of the Indians. The lowest class of them, the ' leperos,' dress as they can afford it, the climate of the country permit- ting them to wear very litde ; a pair of coarse tiousers, a similar shirt, and a sombrero of palm-leaves are sufficient. The women of what I may call the lower middle class invari- ably wear a more or less elegant petticoat, covering them from the waist to their feet. For their bust a loose shirt is thought sufficient, and generally a neckerchief is added to it. The characteristic part of their dress is, however, the rebozo, which serves them for all passible purposes, and with this they under- stand how to dress themselves in a rather becoming and often coquettish manner. The rebozo is a kind of shawl either of cotton or silk, plain or interwoven with gold or silver thread, two and a half or three metres long and one wide, with an open fringe at both ends. Though it is very unusual for ladies to walk in the street, except on going to church and coming from the Alameda, I sometimes took the liberty of looking about, and found always new and interesting things to see, especially on the markets, where so many articles were sold which I had never seen be- fore. I was especially attracted by the great quantity of very fine flowers coming from the floating gardens, where they bloom even in winter. Stawberries are to be had all the year round, and a great variety of fruit, in their season, are heaped up in large pyramids. Covent Garden market in London looks in this respect poor in comparison with the most common Mexi- can market. The fruit to be seen everywhere is the banana, which is called in Mexico platano. It is a smooth yellow pod, sometimes with dark spots, of about five inches long and thick in propor- tion, which contains a soft, gold-coloured, somewhat mealy bat extremely aromatic flesh. These pods grow together in clus- ters of not rarely more than a hundred. The bananas grow 156 Ten Years of my Life. witliout any culture and are extremely cheap. They are brought frequently to |;he tJrkiced States, and I have seen them even in London, but there the truit is not so good as in Mex- ico, I suppose because they are gathered before they are per- fectly ripe. It is the same with piae-apples, which are far superior to those which are sold in the United States or in the streets of London. The fruits of the cactus plants, called tunas, are of course plentiful. The zapote, mimey, granadil- las, papayas, aguacates, the fruit of the melon-tree, the guay- aves, the excellent anona, the bitates, tomatoes, ground pista- chios, &c., &c., it would take too long to describe. People who travel only to write books about what they see may do that ; I am writing my personal adventures, and think it is time to return to them. 157 CHAPTER X. Marshal Bazaine — l\Iadame la Mar^chale — Princess Iturbide — Tacubaya^ San Augustin — A projected important mission — How it ended — We go on an expedition — Meeting the enemy — Result — Arrival in Tulan- cingo — Order to evacuate — ^Jimmy — Carabajal, the robber-general — March to Puebla — Meeting the Emperor Maximilian — The ' woman in white ' — I fall ill — General panic — Returning to Mexico — The family Hube — Departure of the French — The Emperor leaving for Queretaro — Salm going after him — I am left behind — General Mar- quez — General Vidaurri — Good news — The bactle of San Lorenzo — Marquez a coward — Portirio Diaz before Mexico. The fate of Marshal Bazaine would not fail to call for our sympathy if he had done only what a rather prejudiced court found him guilty of, but he has forfeited all claims to sympathy by the manner in which he behaved when in Mexico. Though our religion teaches us that all bad actions are recorded and will fmd their punishment after death, it is always satisfactory if fate overtakes bad men in this life, and I regret that my poor husband did not live to see how Mexico and its noble Empe- ror were revenged on this bad, cruel, brutal, and mean man, and his crafty master. History informs us that in every country where the French entered as conquerors they made themselves hated by their overbearing rapacity and cruelty, but scarcely anywhere did they dishonour their country in a more barefaced manner than they did in Mexico, for they had rarely a chief who encouraged them so openly by his own example as was done by Bazaine. The French officers treated the Mexicans wdth the utmost arrogance and contempt. Gentlemen who met them in the street were insulted and kicked off the side-walks without hav- ing given any oftence. Ladies dared not venture going in the 1'38 Ten Years of my Life. street for fear of being annoyed by their low importunities. Their cupidity was insatiable^ and their behaviour in the coun- try when on some mihtary expedition surpasses anything which we read in old books. Wholesale slaughter and execution of innocent people, burning of houses and robberies, were not even the most atrocious of their crimes ; they committed ac- tions of such cruelty and shamelessness against poor women, before the very eyes of their parents, that the pen refuses to describe them. Their name v»'ill be hated forever in Mexico, and their humiliation and punishment by the brave Germans will without doubt have been heard with rejoicing in that country. Bazaine behaved there as if he was the Emperor and Maxi- milian his subordinate. Everybody trembled before him, and even the French, though they feared him, did not love and respect, but rather despised him. So at least did all honour- able men amongst them. He was not only arrogant, brutal, and cruel, he was also rapacious and mean, and employed the lowest artifices to en- rich himself. It was well known in Mexico, not only amongst the inhabitants but also by the French ofhcers, that he owned in the city two shops, a grocery and another, in which French goods, as dresses, lace, silks, &c., were sold. He became ex- tremely rich by this trade, for he found very cheap means of transportation, and did not pay any duty. His goods were , conveyed as arms, ammunition, and the like, at the expense of the Government. To screen his fast-growing fortune it was said that he inar- ried an enormously rich Mexican lady. This is utterly false, for the girl he married was poor. Salm, when coming to Mexico, had a letter to Bazaine from the French Ambassador in Washington, and was received tol- erably well. Not knowing him sufficiently, and not daring to neglect him, I of course had to pay a visit to Madame la Marechale. She was a charming, rather childlike, and naive little person, who made on me a quite agreeable impression. An officer who had great influence with Bazaine was Colonel Vicomte de la None. We paid him a visit and became ac- quainted with his wife, who was a North American. She was extremely fond of admiration, like all American ladies, and. Princess Iturhide. 159 as most of them do in foreign countries, she also loved to show off her American peculiarities and exaggerate them, even as we may observe with American ladies in Dresden, Vienna, Italy, and especially in German watering-places, where they behave in a manner which they would not dare in their own country. The parties in the Vicomte's house had a certain reputation on account of their gaiety. Under such extraordinary circumstances as prevailed in Mexico at that time, there often appear in society all . sorts of dubious characters ; and having no time to examine and select, one is brought in contact with rather queer people. There were in Mexico a great number of adventurers, especially French, who, bearing a well-sounding name, wore to be met in all societies. One of this sort was a French Count, who had a very handsome wife, whom he had married to the horror of his father, who disinherited him for his disobedience. I sup- pose he came to Mexico to take part in the spoils, but it seems that he did not succeed well, for his pretty wife ran about everywhere trying to borrow three hundred dollars ; but even this, for Mexico, small sum she could not get, notwithstanding her prettiness. There are too many handsome ladies in Mex- ico. I suppose she might have succeeded better had she been ugly, but as she was, all her Parisian vivacity and coquetry, which formed a great contrast with the quiet manner of Mex- ican beauties, left the native gentlemen very cold, to her great astonishment and regret. Amongst the officers who commanded the Austrian and Belgian troops which were engaged in the cause of the Emperor MaximiHan, were many noblemen of high families, and very worthy and amiable men. The position which Salm occupied made it natural that we associated much with them, though they seemed at first somewhat jealous of my husband. There lived also in Mexico a daughter of the unfortunate Emperor Iturbide, who was called Princess Iturbide and Imperial Highness, and 1 paid her a visit. As I only saw her now and then in society, and she had nothing to do with the events happening later, I need not say more of her. For the benefit of Prussian readers, I may, however, mention that Princess Iturbide was strikingly like, both in exterior and manners, to Countess Haake, the ' Pall^st Dame ' of her Majesty the Empress of Germany. , . • 160 Ten Years of ')ny Life. . The most considerable place near Mexico is the town of Tacuba) a. It is extremely cjd, and existed before the Chichi- mecas came to the plateau of Anahuac, under the Indian name of Atlacoloayan, which means, ' place where the brook makes a turning.' It had once 15,000 inhabitants, now is has 5,000, and in summer about 1,500 more. The huts of the Indians, with their aloe-fields, have mostly disappeared, and rich Mexi- cans and foreigners have built in this, the finest spot of the lovely Mexican valley, beautiful villas with splendid gardens. It is to Mexico what Charlottenburg is to Berlin, and will soon become one of its suburbs. In this place a Mr. Hube, the former Consul-General of Hamburg, had a villa, and we were introduced by Baron Mag- nus to him, his most excellent and kind wife, and her amiable family. As I became more intimate with them later, and lived with them when Salm was in the war, I shall speak of the Hube familv more at lenofth afterwards. Another considerable, very charming place, near Mexico, is San Augustin de los Cunvas. Before the Conquest it was called Tlalpam, and is connected with the capital l3y splendid roads and canals. It is most picturesquely situated on the slope of the high mountain of Ajusco. Though it has still (our thousand inhabitants it is not a town, and no kind of suburb like Tacubaya, but has remained a genuine village. There are to be found yet Indian homesteads as they were before the Conquest, though new streets have sprung up also, formed of fine villas. In this charming place the green seem.-s iresher and greener than anywhere else. Many trees growing everywhere, and rocks appearing between the houses, make the interior of the place picturesque, and the neighbourhood abounds in beautiiul spots. Every year, at Whitsuntide, San Augustin is crowded during three or four days with Mexicans, for there is held then a most celebrated fair. This fair is not renowned on account ot its mercantile importance, but tor the gambling carried on there. All Mexicans seem to be crazy about that time, and every- body is seized with the gambling fever. Gambling houses are opened invitingly, and many leave there considerable sums, lost at ' Monte,' the favorite card game of the Mexicans. ■ During the rainy season many people go there for a change of air — what is called ' mudar temperamente.' At other times San August in. IGl San Augustin is a quiet country place, and a visit there is a highly refreshing and agreeable change from the noise of the city. At the end of September we arranged a great party to San Augustin, consisting of seven ladies and about ten or twelve gentlemen. We were all on horseback, and two donkeys, loaded with all kinds of provision, followed us. The distance from Mexico is about three and a half leagues. We established ourselves at a most beautiful spot, where we breakfasted with good appetites, and having procured some Indian musicians, we had a dance on the green sward. One day Baron Magnus called on me requesting a con- fidential conversation. His manner was excited and mysterious, and the proposition he made to me was indeed rather exciting and of great importance. He came from an audience with the Emperor Maximilian, whose position threatened to become alarming, for the French were on the point of leaving the country. Though the American Government had at that time done nothing hostile to MaximiUan, they had not recognized him, and it was well-known that they were opposed to the estabHsh- ment of a monarchy so near their frontier. There was, how- ever, a party in the United States who did not look quite un- favourably on such a plan, for they thought it better for the interest of their countiy that order should be restored in Mexico, as its troubled state interfered not only with the security of the many American citizens living there, but also with the general mercantile transactions between the two countries. President Johnson himself was rather favourably inclined in reference to the civilizing mission of the young Emperor, and it seemed therefore not irnpossible to turn the scale in Congress in favour of the cause ot Maximilian, and to win a majority for his recognition by the United States. This would have been of the highest importance, and increased the chance of Maximilian's success more than the ambiguous and humiliating patronage of the French Emperor. If only the United States remained neutral it would have been much gained, for if they declared themselves positively against the Emperor his downfall would have been only a question of time. As I was well acquainted not only with President Johnson and most of the influential persons in the United States, but J 1C2 Ten Years of my Life. also with the best ways and means in which to work upon them, Baron Magnus had suggested to the Emperor the idea of sending me to Washington on a secret diplomatic mission, accompanied by a most powerfully ally — two millions of dollars in gold. The proposition pleased me very much, tor success seemed by no means improbable, and the importance of the mission and the confidence placed in me flattered m.y ambition. I therefore placed myself at the disposition of the Emperor, but Salm opposed my going alone to the United States, and insisted on going with me. He had very little diplomatic talent, and did not understand how to deal with Americans as I did. I knew that he would rather render my task more difficult, but as he obstinately insisted I could not refuse him. It was arranged that we should dine with the Emperor on Tuesday, the 23rd of October, in Chapultepec, where our transactions would be less' observed than in Mexico. I had not yet been presented to the Emperor, for as the Empress had left he did not receive any ladies at court. Our dinner-party, and afterwards the whole scheme, was, however, frustrated by a most unexpected event, which created confusion and consternation everywhere. On Sunday, the 2ist October, the Emperor suddenly left Mexico, and went to Orizava, with the intention of returning at once to Europe. He had received the news of the distressing illness of the Empress. After the first effects of this news v/ere over, Maximilian remembered what he owed, not only to his position, but also to all those who had embarked in his cause. He could not run away as it were from the battle-field, and if he really resolved on giving up his high-flying and noble plans, he saw that he must abdicate in a manner becoming an Archduke of Austria. This abdication was the great desire of the French, and they did all they eould to bring him into such a position as to make any other decision almost impossible. In this endeavour Bazaine was assisted by the Austrian and Belgian Ministers, while, on the other hand, Miramon, Marquez, and Father Fischer hurried to Orizava, to entreat the Emperor to ressain, and to rely on the Mexican people, promising that everything would go well if only the hated French would leave th.e country. • • War's Alarms. ICio AVhilst all these negotiations were going on we amused our- selves in the usual way in Mexico. The life we were leading was pleasant enough, but my Hotspur Felix panted for war. Though as kind-hearted as could be, and as gentle as a lamb, he had the pugnacious instincts of a fighting cock. War was his very element. That he once, when still a boy, was left with seven wounds on the battle-field, did not cure him. Through the American war he escaped without a hurt. A shot in his right arm, which was rather dangerous, received in a duel, did not cure him either. When any one looked askance at him, or too admiringly at me, his eye became vicious and the colour of his face heightened. He was like a cocked pistol, every moment ready to go off. The Belgian Corps, under Colonel van der Smissen, was ordered on an expedition into the interior. Salm could not bear the idea of staying in Mexico idling away his time. He urgently applied to the Secretary of War for permission to join the expedition as a volunteer, and was quite crazy with plea- sure when it was granted. I, who had been always with him, could not realise the idea of being left behind, but he would not listen to my going with him. At last, after a hard battle of six hours, he had to surrender. I and Jimmy were to ac- company him. We left Mexico on the 8th of November, at eight o'clock in the morning, only with one company, but met the rest of the Belgian Legion on the road. Passing through St. Christoval, we arrived on the 9th in Tipaguca, where we had scarcely pitched our tents when an alarm was beaten. Columns of the enemy were reported before us. Salm and A^an der Smissen reconnoitred, and they advanced towards Tipaguca, and it was decided on attacking the enemy at once. Salm snorted battle, and I caught the excitement. I wouldn't be left bel^ind. I declared I would rather brave the dangers of battle than those awaiting me, perhaps, if I was left behind. Van der Smissen smiled, advised me not to fire my revolver at a dis- tance, but to save my six shots for a hand-to-hand fight. Salm made an angry face and dropped his lorgnette, but I joyously pressed my horse between both of theirs at the head of the troops, and we advanced at a quick pace. The enemy for a good while were not aware of our presence, but when they 'law us, and understood unmistakeably that we IG-i . Ten Years of my Life. meant fight, they turned tail and ran like partridges, and we on seeing that ran still faster after them. The result was that we soon came near enough to discover that the enemies were no enemies after all, but good Austrians, who, however, on their part could not recognise us for what we really were, because Austrians have stiJl less eyes behind than other nations, and therefore kept on running. To cut the question short, I spurred my horse, and when I reached them and told them that we did not want to kill them at all, they were extremely glad, and I do not wonder that some very frightened Catholics mistook me for tlie Holy Virgin or some angel on horseback, despatched expressly by their patron saint to save them. These Austrians, commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel Pollack, had had an encounter with the Liberals just before they saw us, had lost about forty killed, and had not yet recovered from their fright. We marched together to Pachuca, a rather ugly place, where we were lodged in the house of Mr. Auld, a very rich gentle- man, who was director of an English mining company, that had rented the silver mines in the neighbourhood. Mr. Auld and his wife were extremely kind and amiable people. The Empress and her ladies had once been their guests, and were delighted with their hospitaHty. Mrs. Auld showed me a very rich bracelet which the Empress had presented to her as a keepsake. We had not much time to examine the mines, which are very considerable, for there work more than a thousand Indians, and nearly two thousand mules. We saw, however, some of the sohd silver ingots, each worth fifteen hundred dollars, of which twelve millioi:is' worth of dollars are produced every year. Next day we had only a short march, leaving the Austrians behind. We passed the place where they had been beaten by the Liberals, of wliom we, however, saw nothing that day. The country through which we marched was very romantic, but rather rough. It looked very much like some parts of Switzerland, and nothing reminded us that we were in a trop- ical country. There vv'ere no aloes, no palm-trees, nothing but pines, cedars, cypresses, and ever-green oaks. No wonder, for Kial del Monte, a little town, v/hich we reached after three hours, and which is situated in a ravine, is ten thousand feet Tulancingo. 165 abvove the sea ! Vie were quartered there in the house of a Dr. Griftin, On the T2th of November we came to Huasca, which the Liberals had left only an hour before our arrival. The wea- ther was splendid, and v/e all were in a very good humour, fur our quarters were pleasant. Next day we arrived at the end of our march, at Tulancin- go, where the Austrian detachment ot Colonel Pollack's corps came to meet us, for we were to relieve them, and they marched off towards Pachuca. Tulancingo is quite a considerable town, and the seat of a bishop, who has there a palace. The v.-hole gar-ison consisted ot onlv sixteen hundred men, of whom one half were unreliable Mexicans. As we expected to be attacked every day by very superior forces. Colonel van der Smissen sent to I^ieutenant- Colonel Pollack, requesting him to reinforce the garrison by his Austrians, but all our officers were very indignant when that worthy refused to come. He had had enough of tightingv and wanted to go home. As the garrison was too weak to undertake anything outside against the Liberals, who were in force in the neighbourhood, Salm was very busy wiih fortifying the open place, and taking all kinds of precautions, not only against an attack from outside, but also against treachery in- side, for the Mexican troops were not to be trusted at all. We were very agreeably quartered in the house of Mr. Gayon, the Spanish Vic^-Consul, a very wealthy man, with a pretty well-educated wife, who had been in Europe, and to whom 1 be- came quite attached. The country is very fine, and the mountain near tempted us to make excursions ; but as the Liberals were always on the look-out we did not venture far, and amused ourselves as well as we could in the town, which had a nice theatre. As it is the fashion there to dance every night during the two weeks preceding Christmas, we had quite a lively time. These tertullas always .take place at the same private house, designated that year for that purpose. The entertainment of the guests falls, however, to the charges of all the ladies, taking part alternately, so that every night a different lady performs the duties of hostess. Carpets are not usual in private houses, but people there imagine that thev cannot dance on the bare floor, and for :i ball or tertulla carpets are hired. 168 Ten Years of my Life. Not liking to accept, without return, the hospitality of the people of the town, Colonel \^n der Smissen and Felix gave a great ball at some public hail, to which a great many persons were invited, and which was a great success. As a large Liberal force was assembled not far from the town, as said before, we expected to be attacked every day, but instead ot that there arrived, soon after Christmas, an order from General Bazaine to surrender Tulancingo to the Liberal General Martinez, the chief of whose staff was sent under a flag of truce to arrange that afifiir. Our officers were very much astonished to hear from that officer that Bazaine and the Liberals were on quite friendly terms, but they had to obey orders, and we were ready to leave Tulancingo on the 28th of December. Our situation Avas by no means reassuring, for we had heard of the arrival of a noted guerilla chief, of the name of Caraba- jal, with about a thousand men, who were no better than rob- bers, and who did not care for any treaties or capitulations. Moreover, our expectations in reference to the treachery of our Mexican troops were fulfilled on the morning of the surrender. The rascal who commanded them, a Colonel Peralta, went over with his whole regiment of cavalry to the enemy. When we were assembled in the market-place, ready to evacuate the town, I was there also with Jimmy. Now, that dog is a very intelligent dog. Having accompanied me through the whole American war, he had learnt that gmis are dangerous engines, and that when shots are fired from them mischief is done. 'He therefore has a most sensible dread of guns and shots, because he is very fond of life, and of roast veal, and beefsteak, and cutlets, and other things which make the exist- ence of a dog agreeable, and which he is desirous of enjoyins; as long as possible. When he saw in the market-place so many shooting engines, the poor darling became frightened, and ran home to his old quarters, hiding himselfin the bed, I am sure many sensible men would like to do the same be- fore a battle, if they only could muster courage enough to rim away like Jirrimy, who has no prejudices. When I noticed the absence of my pet I was in despair, and as the dog would not have trusted anybody else, dear, kind Saim went back himself to fetch him. When he came out of tile house he met some of the enemy, who had entered already, Cautious Jimmy, 1C7 against the agreement, but seeing the colonel of the Imperial forces with such a fine dog under his arms, they were awe- struck, and saluted him respectfully. Now, had Jimmy not been so cautious, he would have been killed long ago, instead of sitting now demurely at my side, having reached in its thirteenth year a reputation few dogs can boast of. His beautiful head has been caressed by three em- perors, and his four-legged soul has been sanctified by the touch of most holy cardinals and archbishops, not to speak of presidents, senators, simple highnesses or generals. It he should die before me, I will have his life-size statue made in black marble, and order in my last will that it be placed over my grave — or on the top of my ash-urn, if I should be burned, as I hope I shall. We had scarcely left Tulancingo half Castle Wiggen is a beautiful spot. From tlie back room one looked riglit upon the Rorschach hill, of which the slope fall- ing off towards the lake is indeed iy. little world in itself Ap- proaching Rorschach from the lake, when still the snowy mountains behind the ridge are to be seen, this slope looks rather insignificant ; but on coming nearer and the high moun- tains disappearing, it looks more interesting ; but to become fully aw^are of its beauties, one must stay for a longer time and explore it. It is indeed, as I said, a little world in itself. There are little villages and farms, deep gullies w^ith rocks and water rushing over them ; fine woods and s[)lendid meadows. Beaut if al Scenery. 243 covered with beautiful flowers like a garden. Ever>-wliere crystal springs are bubbling. Towards the top of the ridge are pine-woods, It is a rather long and toilsome way up to them, but it is worth the trouble to make it, for behind these woods is the crest of the ridge, from where the enraptured eye looks on the Saentis, which seems so close by that every little rock on it can be seen. At the other end of the ridge the view is even finer, for before us are the Rhine Valley, the mountains near Ragatz and Chur, and the Tyrolean Alps.. The beauties of the site of Rorschach, though it does not strike visitors on a first view, have been fully appreciated by connoisseurs. The Queen Dowager of Wurtemburg, who is now dead, had between Rorschach and Bad Horn a fine country-house, where she resided every summer. At the op- posite side, nearer to the entrance of the Rhine into the lake is Castle Wartegg, the residence of the Duke of Parma. On the same line, not on the lake but on the top of the ridge, stands the very stately old Castle of Wartamsee, which has been restored by an Englishman, who, however, lost his money in Baden-Baden, and had to sell that fine place, Vvhich since then has changed hands several times. Not far from Rors- chach, in the Rhine Valley, is the Weinburg, a country seat belonging to the Prince of Plohenzollern. Rorschach is built hard by the lake. It was a very flourish- ing mercantile place, and many rich merchants dealing with italy lived there. Several fine old houses, with curiously sculp- tured windows and balconies, especially in the main street, bear testimony to their taste and wealth. It is still an impor- tant place, and one of the grain markets of Switzerland. Close to the lake, on the haven, stands an extensive old corn-house. In summer Rorschach is very lively, for an immense num- ber of travellers pass through, coming either from Lindau or Friedrichshafen, on their way to the interior of Switzerland. Steamers are going to and fro, the railroad whistle is heard in- cessantly, and all these steamers and trains^are crowded, loaded with travellers from every part of the world — or societies, schools, colleges, &c. out on a pleasure excursion. Most of these passengers pass only, but very many think it worth while to stay a day or two in Rorschach, and in the several hotels of the place company is always to be found, almost every day fre^h faces. 24-l< Ten Years of rtiy Life. As it was inconvenient to walk every day to Rorschach for our meals, though the distance from Wiggen would be con- sidered trifling in a city, we commenced housekeeping in the castle. It is true the cooking apparatus of centuries ago was very insufficient, but we had all been used to camp life, and found it not very difficult to put up with little imperfections and simple tare. A few minutes walk brought us to the bank of the lake, where we made friends with a gardener who had charge of an extensive villa, belonging to some Stuttgart gentleman, and were allowed the use of the bathing-house, which was indeed a great comfort. A bath in the Lake of Constance is indeed a treat. Though it is the largest of the Swiss lakes, it is only a pond in comparison with our American lakes. In fine wea- ther one can see every house in Friedrichshafen on the Wur- tenibergian shore, though the steamer requires an hour and a half for the passage. Still it is beautiful, and one does not tire of looking on its ever-changing surface. Now it is as blue as an Italian lake ; in the next quarter of an hour it is green, which is its most usual colour, shaded off from emerald green to the darkest hue. A land-scape painter could not find anywhere a more favourable place for studying water and sky than at the windows of our bright and pleasant room. Small as the lake appeared to me, in stormy weather it can assume quite a formidable aspect and foam like the sea. Skip- pers say that it is dangerous, and accidents to ships are by nib means rare. Some years ago one of the largest steamers was wrecked close to the port of Rorschach. It is plainly to be seen where the Rhine enters the lake, and the course of the river is still to be traced a great distance. The place near the entrance of the Rhine is rather ill-reputed, on account of an eddy making it dangerous to inexperienced boatmen. Salm went one morning out fishing alone in a small boat, with nothing but a piece of bread and a small flask in his pocket. Knowing that he was a very persevering sports- man, I did not wonder at his not being back to dinner ; but when, late in the afternoon, he still had not returned, and our glasses swept the lake in vain, looking out for his boat, we all became alarmed and afraid of some accident, though the wea- ther was fine and the lake like a mirror. At last he arrived but utterly exhausted and in a pitiful state. His face was Salmon-Jishing, 245 burnt quite red and the inside of his hands was peeled off. As the place where the Rhine enters the lake was famous for salmon, he ventured there, but not being sufficiently ac- quainted with the dangers of that locality he got in the famous eddy, and was kept there for hours, no help being near. The lake is still famous for its fish, though the steamships have done a great deal of harm. Some years ago a renowned fisherman from Horn caught in one morning 800 cwt. of fish, a fact scarcely credible, but which was confirmed as true by many persons. Salm and Corvin engaged that lucky man to initiate them in his art, and they went frequently out fishing on the lake, mostly trolling for salmon-trout and pike, but with indifferent success. Once Salm had a bite and he became quite excited, for according to all indications an enormous salmon had taken the bait. Instead of giving the fish line and letting it exhaust its strength, Salm in his eagerness pulled in with all the strength of his arm, and the result was, as every votary of the craft might have foreseen, that he nearly capsized the boat by falling on his back, the salmon getting off with six hooks in his mouth. Salm was much teased for this un- courteous behaviour of one of his cousins towards the ' Rhine- grave,' for salmon is Salm in German, and the family derive their name from this denizen of the Rhine, the Salms having two salmons in their coat of arms. I contented myself with fishing with the rod, remaining on shore. Though I am not very fearful in general, I dislike water, for on looking on it I think, shudderingly, of sea-sick- ness. We made of course many excursions to the mountains, and though sometimes fatiguing, they were pleasant. We visited now and then the fine village of Heiden, about six miles from Wiggen, beyond the crest of the Rorschach hill and beautifully situated. Many people live there through the summer, and the place is quite celebrated, as Professor Graefe, the eminent oculist, stayed there ev-ery summer, and people from every part of the world came there to consult him. We visited also sometimes Castle Rorschach, the decayed residence of the old lords of Rorschach, and once the resi- dence of an abbot of St. Gall, who sustained a siege and died there. It is situated some hundreds of feet above the village, and is now owned by a man who has been everywhere in the world, 24;6 Ten Years of my Life. and who looks like an Italuin robber. He keeps in the castle a kind of restaurant, and manj people go there to drink his good wine and enjoy the splendid view. More frequently we visited a place only a short walk from us, close to Castle Wartegg. It was called ' im Wiedien,' and belonged to a man of the name of Raggebas, whose family have owned the house and surrounding fields for centuries. The very insignificant-looking house was built against the hill, and one entered with reluctance, first, a room where workmen from the neighbouring quarries were smoking horrid tobacco, eating horrid cheese,- and drinking a horrid fluid called saft. a kind of weak cider made of pears, a whole pint of it costing but a fraction of a penny. From there one came into another room, where a better class of people, and amongst them some servants of the Duke of Parma, were drinking thtir coftee or pint of wine. Through this room one came 1o the third largest room, which was re- served for those persons who were imagined to belong to the higher classes. All the rooms were scrupulously clean and pleasant. The owner of this farm, who was a wealthy man, never aspired to a higher place in society than had been held by his ancestors. He was a free Swiss peasant, and, wearing all the year round his blouse and hobnailed shoes, he carried his milk to his customers and worked on his farm, leaving to his wife and servant the care as to housework and attendance on the guests. Mrs. Raggebas became a great friend of ours, as she had been of the late Duchess of Parma, who often came and had achat with her. She was a middle aged, pleasant, kind, and polite peasant woman, who kept her house in trim order, and everything she served was excellent and ridiculously cheap. When we came there in company of six or eight persons and enjoyed all the luxuries to be had, as splendid coffee, excel- lent cream, cake, honey, and good Tyrolean wine, we never succeeded in running up a bill surpassing five francs ; and when paying, Mrs. Raggebas always forced upon us a quantity of cherries or pears, adding with a reassuring smile in her Swiss dialect, ' Koscht nix.' She had a maid-servant, who was remarkable also. She was the daughter of a wealthy farmer herself, but not liking her Projessor Desor. 247 stepmother she preferred serving. She was a rather tall, plea- sant-looking girl, with an open though not pretty countenance, who was held in great respect by all the men on account of her strength, which she once used in a very credible manner. A little stranger, with a high, well-brushed cylinder hat, at- tempted to flirt with her in a country-like fashion. Looking upon him at first with some amused astonishment, she settled the question by quietly taking hold of his waist with both her hands. Then she lifted up the little amorous man as one does a baby, and ramming his precious beaver against the low ceil- ing so that it went down over the nose of the stunned little fellow, she went away laughing. When the weather was not favourable we were occupied at home ; Mrs. Corvin with painting in water colours, and I with learning German, for which I had engaged a teacher from Eorschach. Corvin had discovered in the castle an old library full of curious books, into which he dived with all the zeal of an antiquarian. Salm wrote his Diary in Mexico, which was published some time after, myself adding to it a part of ray own diary. Visitors were not wanting, for many persons we knew passed through Rorschach and stayed there a few days. Amongst others came an old comrade of Salm's in the Austrian army. Baron Hauser, with his pretty wife, the daughter of the Trieste banker, and a colonel from Bregenz paid us now and then a visit. The same did a Baron Alten (a staunch Welf, who followed the fortunes of his deposed king), with his daughter, an agreeable girl. Parties to Bregenz, Ragatz, Heiden, and St. Gall interrupted now and then our monotonous but rather pleasant life, which would have satisfied me still more if the unsettled state of Felix's affairs had not troubled my mmd and embittered all enjoyment. My husband went from Rorschach to Munich and Vienna to bring about some arrangement, but without effect ; and from Schloss Anholt we did not receive much comfort either. In the first days of August, Mrs. Corvin resolved to pay a visit to a friend of her youth, the celebrated savant, Professor Edward Desor, who lived near Xeufchatel, and she invited me to accompany her. Switzerland is not Mexico, and I need not describe what I saw. Though the weather was not very 248 Ten Years of my Life. good, I was delighted. At a station beyond Neufcbatel, I believe Noiraigre, the carriage of the Professor waited for us, its owner excusing himself on the ground of a slight indisposi- tion. The road to his country-seat was uphill work, for Combe- Varin (that is its name) is situate five thousand feet above the sea. It was formerly a hunting house of a noble family related to Mr. Desor, and has been changed by him into a very comfortable Swiss dwelling-house. The Professor's name is well known in the learned world. He was a long time in America, and a companion of Agassiz. Now he has settled in Switzerland, and is a senator of influence in his canton. He is a bachelor, but his house is never empty of visitors, for he has maiay friends m every part of the world. We found there a Mr. Reinwald, a publisher from Paris, with his wife, and a Professor Eisenlohr from Carlsruhe, a great scientific gun, who died, however, some lime ago. The Professor does not look like a professor, but more like a country gentleman, and his household does not resemble that of a bachelor either. Everything was extremely comfortable, and in all Switzer- land I never met a better provided dinner-table. Mr. Desor is somewhat of an epicurean, as every sensible man ought to be who can afford it. I felt somewhat out of my depth in this learned society, but all of them being men of the world they dealt mercifully with me, and our visit was very pleasant. We made from Combe-Varin some fine excursions, and paid a visit to a friend of the Professors, Mr. Fritz Berthond, who lived at a village, Fleuris, in a house elegantly furnished in Parisian taste. We remained four days in Combe-Varin, and left on August 8 for Zurich, where we met my husband, with whom we returned to Rorschach. _ Some days afterwards Mrs. Corvin left us for Frankfurt, and the Colonel took his quarters in the Hotel Garni in Rorschach, whilst we were looking out for comfortable quarters in that village, as it now soon became dark, and it was inconvenient to return late to our castle. We were fortunate enough to find in the finest of the old houses of Rorschach a large hall, furnished and decorated in the rococo style, with two adjoining rooms, and left old Wiggen on August 23. We passed our time quite agreeably, for we had always nice The Weinhurg. 240 company. Baron Hauser, with his wife and children, came to Rorschach, and also frequently Baron Alten with his daughter. In Heiden we became acquainted with a Mademoiselle de Dusterloh, a very handsome, sprightly young lady, to whom we became very much attached. Her father. Baron von Dusterloh) who had an estate in Kurland, Russia, arrived also, and when he had to go to Berlin he left his daughter under my care. Our company was increased by Mr. Morpurgo, the brother of Baroness Hauser, an agreeable young man suftering from the poetical fever. Everything turned to verse in him, and he could not keep it to himself. We were of course vic- timised, but the bashful manner in which he administered to us his poems made it tolerable. On September 3, Corvin left us, and we accompanied him to Friedrichshafen in the steamer. This place is larger than Rorschach, and many people prefer it, because they have a vievv of the Swiss mountains. On September 10, Prince Hohenzollern and family arrived at the Weinburg, and we were invited to come and see them. The Weinburg is a beautiful place, deriving its name from the vineyards surrounding it, where are grown the most delicious grapes. I cannot sufficiently acknowledge the great and genuine kindness with which we were received and treated by this most excellent and amiable family. The Prince, who is a general in the Prussian army, is a fine noble-looking man, with an extremely benevolent face, and the Princess his peer in every respect. With them were staying their second son, Prince Cliarles of Roumania, Baron von Schreckenstein, captain and aide-de-camp to his father, and his wife, and the Baronesses Esebeck. and Lindhein. The. Prince is very rich, and though not related to the King of Prussia, he has great influence, which, however, he does not use, keeping far trom mixing either with internal or external politics. As the name shows, the Prussian Family and that of the Prince come from the same stock, and the Hohenzollerns of Hechingen and Siegmaringen are even of the elder line. They remain Catho- lics, while the Royal Family of Prussia are Protestants, I need not repeat here the circumstances which made Prince Charles of Hohenzollern accept the rather troublesome posi- tion of Prince of Roumania. It is said that he often regretted 250 Ten Fears of my Life. that step, and would have preferred to return as a simple officer to Berlin. Whenever he made a journey it was rumoured he would not return, probably by people with whose wishes this would have coincided. At all events, he is still in Bucharest, and as far as I know without any intention of leaving it. We dined several times at the Weinburg, and passed there very agreeable hours. The Prince presented me with an album containing photographic views of the Weinburg, and the Prin- cess frequently sent me fine flowers and grapes ; and all came / to see us in Rorschach. Jimmy was highly displeased with I these visits, for the dogs of the Weinburg were not so hospita- 1 ble towards him as their masters towards his, and he had with j them a rather severe fight. The kindness of Prince, Hohenzollern was, however, not re- stricted to mere politeness ; he understood and sympathised with the position ot Salm, and promised to assist him, which he did in a very noble and princely manner. It was deemed expedient and even necessary that we should go to Berlin to pursue the endeavours of Felix to get a suitable position in the Prussian army. We therefore left Rorschach on October 2, and I was very glad, for it was at least a step towards a final settlement, for which I longed much. These perpetual troubles and anxieties, these false hopes and delays, were almost more than I could bear, and I was yearning with all my heart for rest. In passing Majence we met there an old friend of my hus- band's, a Mr. Kalmer, and his wife, who was with him at Paris at a very sad period of his life, before he left for the United States. We went over to Wiesbaden to see that celebrated beautiful watering-place. Of course we tried our luck at the roulette-table. I sacrificed a few gilders, but Salm won, to my envy, a good many. Next morning we started for Bonn, where ' Uncle Hermann ' waited for us at the station, and took us to his house. We made the acquaintance of a Baroness Frank, whom we visited at her beautiful country-house, which might be rather called a palace, situated on the opposite side of the Rhine, not far from the Drachenfels, The hereditary Prince of Anholt came also to see us, and we all made a nice party to Rolandseck. On October 7 we left for Berlin, and arrived late in the c\ ening at the Hotel St. Petersburg, Unter den Linden. 251 CHAPTER XVII. Salm's Diary in Mexico pubIished--Prince Kraflft Hohenlohe — Baron Magnus — Audience with Princess Charles of Prussia — Countess Seyd- ewitz— At Baroness Sciileinitz's—Salm Major in the Guards — Audience with Her Majesty the Queen — Countess Schulemburg — Countess Benckendorff — Fast habits — Coblentz — Society there — The Prussian army — Prussian officers — The regiment ' Queen Augusta.' As we expected to stay for several montlis in Berlin, we looked out for more convenient quarters. We moved first to the Hotel de Brandenburg, and from there to private lodgings in the Kanonierstrasse. My husband had been so long away from Berlin that he had becoine almost a stranger in that city ; but fortunately the Corvins had returned to their residence there, and Baron Magnus lived also in Berlin, where his brother is a great banker. We found also a nephew. Prince Max Salm-Salm, whom the king had made lieutenant in the regi- ment of Dragoons of the Guard. It is still a privilege of the princes of former sovereign houses that they may be appointed officers at once, but ihey have to pass through their examina- tion afterwards. We were of course frequently with the Corvins ; in fact, we saw each other daily, we either staying with them or they visit- ing us. Baron Magnus came also frequently as usual, and en- deavoured to take the direction of all steps to be taken by my husband. It was, however, a very trying time, for we had first to feel our ground, to form all kinds of connections, to make calls, &c. Both Felix and myself were therefore in a very bad humour, and our friends had a rather hard time with us. Though I did not feel at all disposed, my husband insisted on my going very often to the theatre, or to take part in other amusements. As the season was still favourable we visited 252 Ten Years of my Life. Potsdam, wliich is indeed ,a beautiful place. We s:.w Sans' Souci, the new Palace, the Marmor Palace, which all inter' ested me much, as I had never before seen such royal residen' ces. We visited also the tomb of Frederick the Great, which is in a very simple vault underneath the pulpit in the garrison church. Meanwhile the book of my husband, ' My Diary in Mexico,' written at Rorschach, had been published both in the English and German languages. Though much had been written be- fore about that dreadful catastrophe in Mexico, this book was received more kindly by the public than we could expect, and was read by many persons of high standing and influence in the Prussian capital. In the commencement of November Felix was received by the King, who was extremely gracious, and invited him on the nth to dinner. He returned from there much elated and full of good hopes. Many of his old comrades remembered him now and behaved very kindly, and were willing to assist him in his endeavours to re-enter the Prussian army. Amongst them was Prince Krafift Hohenlohe-Ingelfingen, who was a general in the Prussian Artillery, much in favour with the King. He came frequently to see us, and behaved altogether extremely kindly and serviceably. The Queen of Prussia was at that time not in town, and that was an impediment to my being presented to other members of the Royal Family, and at Court. On November 12, however, Baron Magnus called and made a very important and myste- rious face. He said he came at the request of the Princess Charles, the sister of the Queen, who wished to see me, though it was somewhat against etiquette. In consequence I wrote to the first lady of honour to the Princess, requesting an audience. The former, a Countess von Hagen, and the Countess von Seydewitz, lady-in-waiting, immediately called on me, but I was not at home. On the 14th I went to the palace of Prince Charles, where I was received by her Royal Highness in the presence of her lady-in-waiting, the forenamed Countess Seydewitz, one of the handsomest ladies and finest figures I have ever seen. The Princess received me with the utmost kindness, and I had good reason to be highly gratified with my first appearance amongst persons belonging to the Prussian Court, for every- body was extremely poHte and kind to me. Visiting. On the same evening Countess Seydewitz called, and we drove together to Baroness Schleinitz, wife of the minister of the royal household, where we found company. The conver- sation turned much upon affairs in Mexico and the Emperor Maximilian. One gentleman of the company, whose name I had heard only imperfectly when he was presented to me, ex- pressed himself in a manner with which I did not agree, and I answered him somewhat sharply in defence of my late emperor and friend, to the great amusement of the company, for that dissenting gentleman was the Austrian minister. When the ice once was broken things went on extremely well. Many persons belonging to the Royal Court called, amongst them Count Perponcher, and several other distin- guished persons. Felix had written to the Countess Schulem- burg, requesting an audience for both of us. The Queen was indisposed, but the audience was granted for a few days later. Meanwhile I received a note from Princess Charles, who wished to see us once more, as she was leaving for Nizza. We accordingly went to her palace, and were presented to her husband, Prince Charles of Prussia, the brother of the King, whom he does not resemble in the least. We received also visits from Count Bismarck, Prince Ho- henlohe, and Mr. Bancroft, the American minister. Baron Magnus came frequently, bringing us good news in reference to the affairs of my husband, who was to my great satisfaction appointed a major in the 4th Regiment of Guards, the regiment * Queen Augusta,' of which her Majesty is the chief Had he not left the Prussian service as a young lieutenant he might by that time have been a colonel ; but Felix was nevertheless highly gratified, for he preferred his place of major in the Prussian army to his title of General in the United States and in Mexico. On December 17 I received a letter from Countess Schu- lemburg, saying that the Queen would receive us next day at three o'clock p.m. Though I am not very nervous in general, and the manner in which I had been received by her sister might have encou- raged me. I must say I felt actually nervous when I drove to the royal palace. Everybody spoke of the Queen with so much love, praising her kindness and amiability, still she was — the Queen. Though I did not expect to see her with crown 254 Ten Years of my Life, and sceptre, I could not get rid of tlie idea that she would receive me sitting on a thro«e under a dais, surrounded by superbly-arrayed ladies watching every movement of mine with a criticising eye. I was ushered into a room, where I did not see anything I had anticipated, and looked in vain for a throne. In that room was a fine and stately lady, elegantly but simply dressed, whom I took for one of the Court ladies who would lead me to the presence of the Queen. I stopped irresolutely, but when Felix made his lowest bow and kissed the extended hand of that lady, 1 became aware that I was standing before the Queen herself. Though somewhat disappointed and perplexed on account of the absent throne and royal state, I was more than indemnified in looking on that noble, beautiful face, with its inimitably gracious and benevolent smile. When the Queen had taken a seat, and we were seated be- side her, she commenced speaking about poor Emperor Maxi- milian, whom she regretted very much. She was kind enough to express herself very graciously about the part I had played in that tragedy, and though she did not say that she expected to see me with an Indian feather dress and a bow and arrows, or at least a revolver in my belt, I imagine that the Queen was somewhat disappointed in her turn at seeing a woman such as those of whom she saw daily many prettier and more remark- able. But whatever impression I might have made, her Majesty was so exceedingly kind that I felt highly gratified and quite bewildered and happy when we, after about half an hour, were graciously dismissed. Felix kissed her hand, and I wished to do the same but the Queen did not permit me. Next day Felix dined with the King, and after dinner we drove to Countess Schulemburg, who had invited us for the evening. She was a very amiable lady, liked by everybody, and extremely kind to me. Being a stranger at Court, and afraid of sinning frequently against etiquette, I asked her ad- vice, which was very valuable to me. Some days later we dined with Countess Benckendorff, daughter of General Prince Croy, and first cousin to my hus- band. The Countess is very rich, and lived in a very elegant house in the Behrenstrasse. We had many invitations and saw very pleasant company, where I was both amused and shocked, as the manners of those high-born German ladies Cohlentz. 255 differ very much from those of the Americans. Though the opinion ])revai!s in Germany that American ladies are very fast, I must say that the German ladies have no great cause fo** blaming and criticising them, for from what I heard and saw I came to the conclusion that they beat in this respect their American sisters. I was much astonished on seeing many of the ladies smoke in company with the gentlemen, not only cigarettes, but cigars, like old smokers. I thought it best to do in Rome as the Romans do, and smoked also, though I do not like it. The Queen is rather strict, and not pleased at all with the fast manners of these ladies, but though they behave well 01 course in her presence, they do as they please when amongst themselves. On Monday, December 21, Felix left for Coblentz to join his regiment, and after having made all my arrangt^nents and paid my farewell visits, I followed him on the 24th, and met him next day at the station in Dusseldorf with Count Her- mann Salm and the hereditary Prince of Anholt. 'Wq stayed a day in Bonn to celebrate my and Felix's birthday, for we were both born on December 25, a curious coincidence. On the 26th we arrived in Coblentz, our future home. Hav- ing no house yet, we remained in the Hotel de Treves, which is a most comfortable hotel. I need not describe Coblentz, for everybody has visited the Rhine. It is certainly a beautiful place, and the favourite residence of Queen Augusta, who has done much to beautify it with splendid promenades and tastefully laid-out grounds, an undertaking which offered great difficulties, arising from the circumstance that Coblentz is a fortress, but which has been carried out with a success as perfect as can be. The new promenade is a great ornament to the city, and will remain an everlasting, endearing monument of the predilection and love ot Queen Augusta for Ct>blentz. The frequent presence of the Queen had in every respect its influence in this city. It changed, as it were, its character oi a provincial town, and bestowed on it many advantages and peculiarities of Royal residences. Though this mfluence ex- tended more or less over all classes of inhabitants, it made itseli especially felt on those forming the society of Coblentz. This society consisted, as almost everywhere in Prussia, ot the families of persons who are employed in the service of the 256 Ten Years of my Life. Government, 'and amongst these tlie military ofiicers formed the most numerous and the leading part. In no other country military officers occupy a position in so- ciety similar to that in Prussia, and it is the natural conse- quence of the justly admired and praised military organisation of this country. It is generally acknowledged that Prussia owes to this organisation its prominent place amongst the States of Europe, and other countries are endeavouring to introduce this excellent system, hoping thus soon to reach similar results, and to counteract the military and political preponderance of that Power. Though it cannot be denied that the victories won on the battlefield by the Prussian army are the result of this military system, and that the imitation even of the mechanism of this system must increase the efficiency of rival armies, it will not be sufficient to produce the same effect as in Prussia, if those rival States do not endeavour to create amongst their people the same spirit and feeling which pervade the Prussian nation. Other nations, prejudiced and blinded by vanity, will indig- nantly contradict even the suggestion that this spirit and feel- ing amongst the Prussians are of a higher order than amongst themselves, and will point to former successes and to the pa- triotism and sell-sacrificing enthusiasm shown under urgent cir- cumstances. These historical facts are undeniable, but they only prove that all nations, if stnnulated by extraordinary agencies, are able to act just as bravely as the Germans did in the last war. Courage and patriotism are to be found even amongst the most debased nations, and it requires only the proper means to awake them from their slumber. Other armies have fought just as bravely as the Prussians, and other people have shown even more enthusiasm than they did, when their national independence or liberty were endangered. If tiie superior scientific military skill of Prussian generals and the superior tactics of their troops won the victories on the battlefields, the educational virtue of the Prussian military system — whether intentionally or only indirectly, I am not able to judge — has had other effects which are perhaps even more important and beneficial than those that were the real cause of the introduction of this system. In Prussia these educa- tional effects are fully appreciated by most people, but I be- lieve they are not sufficiently noticed in other countries, and I Prussian Military Tactics. 257 must say that I had not even an idea of them before I came to Prussia, and belonged as it were myself to its army. It always seemed to me astonishing that many nations should leave the defence of their country and its interests to hirelings, for I should think that the protection of his home and family was the most sacred and most noble duty of every citizen. It was thought so at least in olden times. But we find almost everywhere that with the increase of wealth and opulence people acquired different ideas, and that they found it more convenient to pay men who made war their profesr.ion. The consequences were in all cases the same. The standing armies created everywhere despotism and tyranny, and once free and noble nations became debased. When this effect was felt it was almost too late, and to remedy this evil was so difficult that more than a century has passed by without removing all the pernicious influences. These influences are still felt, and they are the cause of the repugnance which rival nations feel against the introduction of the Prussian military system. If we look at the state of the standing armies of past times> which, however, are still in the memory of many living, we find that their elements consisted of the dregs of the nation. Whoever was not thought good for anything else was still judged good enough to become a soldier Thus it came about that the presence of an army had everywhere a demoralising effect, and that citizens looked upon soldiers with aversion, if not with disgust. The armies were not only despised as herds of demoralisation, they were also hated as the tools of despots, and it is very characteristic that the desperate declaration of a member of an honest family to go amongst the soldiers, was received with a horror which very old people even in Prussia remember still with a smile ; a horror which by no means has died out everywhere, for this traditional and once well-justified aversion of citizens against the profession of arms has remained still, enough in many countries to counteract the introduction of the Prussian military system in such a manner as to compel the Governments to act with great caution and reluctance. And even these Governments seem to be far from understand- ing the spirit of this system, which is proved by introducing, as I have said before, only its mechanical organisation, ascri- bing to it solely the admirable successes of the Prussian armies. The consequence will be a very imperfect result, and 258 Ten Years of ray Life. Germany, which has now adopted the Prussian system in its perfection, may look on these 4veak endeavours of their rivals without apprehension. The present generation in Prussia has groAvn up under this system, conceived and introduced by enlightened statesmen, and it has changed the whole character of the people in a most wonderful manner. By this system the army, once a hotbed of vice and degradation, notwithstanding its great effi- ciency from a purely military point of v'iqw^ has become as it were the high school for the nation, where young people ac- quire those qualities which make them not only efficient sol- diers, but also good men and citizens — both able to defend the independence of the nation against foreign arrogance and aggression, and the law and Government against internal enemies. The Prussian schools have a reputation throughout the world, but their progress and success was hindered greatly by influences from which they have been freed only quite recently; and without the course of training which every Prussian has got to undergo in the army, where these hindering influences were less powerful, Prussia would not have been enabled to get to be the head of Germany and to make that country what it is now. In Prussia every able-bodied young man must enter the regular army, and for a certain time, varying from one to three years, be a soldier ; that is, he must join some regiment, and remain with it all the time. Nobody is exempted — -nobleman and peasant, prince and artisan — all have to enter the army as private soldiers : substitutes are not permitted. The time of presence with the regiment is three years, as a rule, but excep^ tions are made for the so-called volunteers, who have to serve only one year. Though they have to pay a certain very mode- rate amount of money for their equipment, this advantage is by no means granted them by reason of this payment. A young man might ofter hundreds of thousands for it without success, if he were not able to prove that he has that degree of education which permits the supposition that a shorter presence with the army would be sufficient to make him a per- fect soldier. Every one who claims this advantage has to sub- mit to an examination, or to produce a testimony from the head-master of one of the Royal Colleges (Gymnasiums), sta- , Education of the Soldier. 259 tins that he has advanced to a certain form of this educational institution. To foreigners it seems extremely hard that young men have to interrupt their career for such a long time to play at soldiers. National economists are indignant that so many hands are taken away from industry or agriculture, calculating to the penny what damage is done by it to the country. Though these calculations may be very correct, these adversaries to tne Prussian military system forget that this loss is more than suffi- ciently compensated for by the improvement of these hands ; for the agriculturist and tradesman will be sent back to his home endowed with qualities which enable him to follow his occupation with far greater success than before. He does not learn only how to handle his gun and to practise the goose- step ; he has to undergo a course of education which makes him in every respect a better man. Care is not only taken to improve and complete what he has learnt in his rural school, his bodily development is likewise considered. Besides this, and that is highly important, he becomes used to order and cleanliness, and by intercourse with his comrades his views are enlarged and his whole tenor of life improved. His comrades are not, as was in olden times the case, the scum of the nation, for at his elbow stand in rank and file the young men of the best families of the country ; and even if one should bring with him low habits and propensities, the example and influence of this class of comrades, which is rather prevail- ing in number in consequence of the attention paid to national education, would serve as a check and improve his morals. After having served his time with his regiment a young man will, in most cases, return much altered and improved, and as his connection with the army is not ended yet with his term of actual service, this salutary influence will always be refreshed by his annual return for a few weeks to some military body. Up to a certain age this connection with the army is continued ; he belongs to the Landwehr, and in case of war he has to join his regiment at the shortest notice. The last war has shown what this Landwehr really is, and gloriously proved in every respect the excellence of the Prussian military system. Hard as it seemed to foreigners that married men had to leave their families and avocations to fight the French, ' because their king was slighted by the minister of Napoleon HI.,' they had 260 . Ten Years of my Life. plenty of opportunity to see with what joyous readiness every- body followed the summons, proving that these soldiers were not mere killing machines, but enlightened citizens, who understood perfecdy that they were called upon to defend what is most sacred to every thinking man. Oflicers commanding Prussian soldiers must possess qualities to make them fit to command such men. Discipline is a powerful agent in an army, and formerly it was the only means to govern the wild, unruly rabble. It is still an indispensable necessity, but in the Prussian army of to-day it has to be main- tained in a manner different from that applied a century ago. Those barbarous punishments, of which we read shudderingly, cannot be applied any more; brutal force alone will not do ; discipline must now be sustained by the intellectual and moral value of those wielding its power. Ruffians might be com- manded by worthless men, if they had only courage and know- ledge of their military duties; Prussian soldiers, as I described them above, can only be commanded by officers who are gentlemen in every respect. This necessity is fully acknow- ledged by the Prussian Government, and the utmost care is taken in the education of officers. It is not sufficient for them to know their duty in the field and on the drilling-ground ; they must possess a certain degree of general education, enabl- ing them to hold their ground in every grade of society. The examination through which ofiicers have to pass is rather difficult, and no influence whatever can make it more easy. I know princes who found it too hard and could not become officers. I know even a case, where a count, con- nected with the most influential persons, had to enter the army as a private soldier for three years, because he was not able to pass his examination as a volunteer ! It is therefore not to be wondered at that the epaulette is the key to every society. Everybody knows that an officer is a gentleman, which is by no means the case in all other coun- tries. This favoured position of the military officers in Prussia is the necessary and natural consequence of its military system, and also the reason why many nobleman and others who have means enough to live independently remain all their life long in the army. It would, however, be erroneous to suppose that all effects of the former state of things have died out in the Prussian . Rival Regiments. 2G1 army. Traditional ideas and prejudices are not easily effaced, and many of them are still to be traced even in the present Prussian army ', and military chiefs who became officers when the idea and word of ' constitution ' was still offensive, think their maintenance not only beneficial but even absolutely necessary. Civilians and young representatives of the people will not admit that the position of officers is an exceptional one, requiring a different treatment both from the laws of the country and society, and assert that this idea is still a remnant of the old bad regime, when officers prided themselves in being body- servants to the King, and felt indignant when reminded that they were servants of the State and people. I can only state the fact that something of this feeling is still existing, and that officers think themselves nearer connected with the King than any officer of the civil service. This feeling will *remain in existence as long as Prussia remains what is called a military State, and as long as the King and all princes of his house wear the military uniform. Another reminiscence of old traditions is the rivalry between the officers of the Guards and those belonging to the Line, the former imagining that they hold a higher rank, which again is the feeling of the officers of the Line in reference to those of the Landvvehr. Without examining the cause and justice of this feeling, I will only state from experience that it is also still existing, or at least was existing when my husband entered the regiment ' Queen Augusta.' This regiment belonged to the Guards, and being garrisot^ed out of its district, on account of the Queen's frequent residence in Coblentz, it occupied in that garrison a separate, rather independent position, its Colonel being its highest authority there, for brigadier, division, and corps commanders were in Berlin. The officers of this regiment mostly kept amongst themselves ; an intimate intercourse between them and families belonging to other regiments was exceptional and rare. The families of a few of the highest civil officers residing in Coblentz, as in the capital of a district, acted as it were as the only con- necting links between the families of our regiment and tho^e belonging to the troops of the Line. Many officers of the regiment ' Queen Augusta ' were mar- ried, and these different families formed as it were only one. I was received in this family with a readiness and cordiality 2G2 Ten Years of 'my Life. which pleased me greatly, and to which I responded widi all my heart. After the unsettled life I had led since my marriage, and all the exciting scenes I had witnessed, I longed for rest and a home ; my hope of finding in little Coblentz a happy home was much increased by this amiable behaviour of the ladies to- wards me. I shall always remember the time of my sojourn in that city with very pleasant feelings and gratitude. i 263 CHAPTER XVIII. Our society — Countess Haake — In Berlin with the Corvins — Anot'fa? audience with the Queen — The King — A queer cousin — Prince SaL-x.- Horstmar — A princely apostle — Housekeeping lessons — Mr. General von S . — Salm's revolt — I try my hand at match-making — Excur- sions— Mr. Moriary — Princess S W and her sons — M^sal- - liances — A poetical friend — Coblentz life — Public tea-gardens — The <^ueen in Coblentz — Princess Liegnitz — 'Uncle Herrmann' — The Grand Duchess Dowager of Mecklenburg — in Ems — Their Majesties The Queen as a godmother — Baron Gerolt — Why he resigned — Mr. Bancroft— His meanness — In Ems with his Majesty — My cousin, the Duchess of Osuna — Breakfast with their Majesties at Sayn — Military manoeuvres — Visit to Anholt — Prince and Princess of Weid — A party at her Majesty's — Grand Duchess of Baden and Pi incess William — A ball at her Majesty's — I dance with the Grand Duke of Weimar — Breakfast at her Majesty's- -Dinner at Neuweid — Prince and Princess of Roumania — The Count of Flanders — Departure of the Queen- Christmas in Anholt — A battue — Bitter reflections. Had I the talent of writing novels, I should find many inter- esting types of character within the circle of our society in Coblentz ; but not having this talent I shall restrict myself to very hurried sketches. Life within the circle of regimental society has its peculiari- ties, originating from a combination of causes. The officers belonging to it though differing in military rank and age, are in reference to society all equals, members of one family. The wife of an officer is no isolated being, who may live as she pleases ; she belongs to a corporation, who claims the right to control her behaviour in a more extended degree than general society, and she has to submit to the customs and laws of this corporation, which are the result of the exceptional position of officers. In everything she does she must consider the interest and feeling of the corps to which she belongs, as the actions oi 264 Ten Years of my Life, each single member reflect on the whole community. In con- >equence of these relations an officer is not at liberty to marry as he pleases ; he can only choose a wife who is considered by the whole corps as worthy to enter the family. Does passion lead him to disregard this, he must cease to be an officer. From this results the advantage that each Avife of an officer shares all the social advantages granted to his class. The title of wife of an officer admits her to every society, for she must be a gentlewoman, an advantage which is not granted to all wives of officers in the civil service, even if the rank of their husbands should be considered higher. This is, I think, the principal cause why almost everywhere in Prussia the officers' families take the lead in society, which is most decidedly the case in places like Coblentz, which have a large garrison. Society in that city acquires still an additional tinge, making it different from that in other garrison towns, by the frequent presence of the Queen in Coblentz. for the officers and the wives of officers belonging to the Queen's own regiment were considered as it were forming part of her Court. This being the case, the admittance of a new member was not alone left over to the high military authorities, but more to the decision of the Queen, This was the cause why the appointment of my husband was delayed, for the King would not act for him- self, but had first to ascertain the wishes of the Queen, who was then absent from Berlin. It was one of my first duties to call upon the ladies of our regiment and make their acquaintance, as well as that of some other ladies forming part of their society. The former Colonel of our regiment had become a Major- General, and his official connection with his former command had ceased, though he remained in Coblentz. His wife had also to resign her place as mother of the regimental family, which had to be reserved for the wife of his successor ; but she loved her old regiment, and resigned her place of mother only for that of a grandmother. Mrs. General von S was a very lively, sharp-witted, nimble-tongued lady, whose conversation was pleasant and amusing, because always seasoned with a particle of gossip and 7nedisance. An adept in housekeeping, she knew exactly the price of butter and eggs, and could calculate to a farthing Our Society. 265 how much a penny would fetch at compound interest in a century. She did not put her hght under a bushel, but liked both being asked for advice and giving it amply and in minute details. She was not quite adored by the wife of the Lieutenant- Colonel, Mrs. von G , a very true-hearted, good woman, much beloved by every one. She became my most intimate friend. Amongst her many talents was one of verse-making, and I served now and then as a target for her poetical arrows She was a highly accomplished lady, and I think of her often with love, and regret that fate bid us part. The handsomest lady in our regiment was the young wife of Captain von C . She was the daughter of a Polish coun- tess, whose husband had taken part in the revolutions of his country, and who, after his early death, had been leading a rather roving, adventurous life, which had not remained with- out influence on her young daughter ; she was, however, greatly admired by all gentlemen, for she was very pretty, elegant in manner and toilet, rather lively and coquettish, and very well educated, speaking German, French, EngUsh, and Polish fluently. The sister of her husband was the wife of a civilian officer, Mr. von M , a very good and agreeable woman, who . had the great misfortune of losing her husband by a sudden dis- tressing illness. The highest civil officer in the district was Mr. von P , a very distinguished, able man, much beloved and respected by everybody. His wife was not so much liked as her hus band, for she was an extremely weak, always undecided and fluttered woman, on whom one never could rely. She had a son who was a lieutenant in our regiment, and a fine grown-up daughter. A general f.ivourite of all ladies and gentlemen was the most excellent wife of the Landrath of the district, Mrs. von F . She appeared to me perfection in every respect, and was indeed an accomplished lady, wife, mother, and house- keeper ; and with all these qualities combining beauty, high education, kindness of heart, and great amiability. Her house- hold and family might have served as a pattern. Mrs. von F was the realised ideal of a German matron, as it lives in the fancy of German poets. She had a family of eight 266 Ten Years of "iny Life. children, and I did not see any reason why it should stop at that number. With all that Mrs. F was very elegant. She was, in fact, the leader of our society, and nobody thought even of disputing her this place. I do not think there is to be found anywhere a society with- out a sprinkling of old maids, either belonging to the subdued, soft, resigned class, who have not found a husband though deserving one, or to the crabbed, prickly species, who have remained single because they were too clever and sharp, and frightened away marrying men ; spinsters with eyes as search- ing as those of custom-house officers, tongues as sharp as razors, and wagging even in sleep. We were not neglected in this respect either, and favoured with a number of noble spinsters belonging to the latter class, and being held in high respect, alloyed with some dread, not because they were bad-tempered or malicious, but on account of their awful cleverness. They understood everything best, and were not stingy with their treasure of knowledge either ; they gave it away lavishh^, even without being asked. They had* studied everything, read every book or pamphlet, and whenever a topic turned up in conversation, and one of them was present, Brockhaus, Pierer, and Meyer might remain un- disturbed, for each of them was a living encyclopaedia. Another unmarried lady who now and then appeared amongst us was Countess Haake, the ' Palast Dame ' of the Queen, who had been with her since her Majesty's entrance into Berlin in 1827, and it may be imagined that everybody strove to win her good graces. I need not say more about this lady, as I have stated somewhere else that she strikingly resembled the Princess Iturbide of Mexico. Though everything in the Hotel de Treves, where we lived first, \vas excellent, our first care was to look out for a house. Assisted by good luck and our new friends, we found one which suited us in every respect, and I went in February to Berlin to buy my furniture and other things required for housekeeping. Not liking to live in an hotel without my husband, I accepted the invitation of the Corvins to stay with them. On the day of my arrival I called on Countess Schulemburg, requesting an audience with the Queen, who received me on February 23 even more graciously than the first time. After having been with her a short time she rose, calling out, ' His Prince Charles Salmi-Horstinar. 267 Majesty ! ' I rose hurriedly, and was presented to the King, who had entered. He received me very kindly, and having taken notice of that part of my diary contained in my hus- band's book, he spoke of Mexico, complimenting me most graciously about my ' tapferes Benehmen/ He spoke Ger- man, the Queen kindly interpreting what he said, though he understood what I answered in EngHsh. His presence made on me the same impression as on everybody who had had the honour of being addressed by him, and I now understood per- fectly the love and enthusiasm with which my husband always spoke of his Majesty. He remained about five minutes, and I then went home quite delighted with my reception. During this stay in Berlin I made the acquaintance of a rather queer and original relative of my husband, Prince Charles Salm-Horstmar, and his wife, a born Princess Hohen- lohe. The Prince was a great devotee and philanthropist, but nothing of this was betrayed by his exterior, for though he was lame he was dressed in a highly dandified style, to which the very simple, almost homely appearance of his wife formed a rather strange contrast. He was an enthusiastic promoter of piety and virtue, and he and his wife had undertaken to estab- lish a reformatory for unfortunate girls, but they had to give it up in despair. Having some doubts about matrimony in com- bination with his profession of apostle, he had resolved to re- main a bachelor all his life, and in consequence of this fancy renounced the majorate of his family to his )c>unger brother. But even the most devoted men are not shot-proof against the arrows of the little great mischief-maker, and our pious cousin fell desperately in love with Princess Elise, before whose charms his celibate resolutions crumbled to dust. Princess Elise did not exactly share the abnegatory inclinations of her virtuous Prince Charles ; she regretted much the renunciation of the majorate, which left her husband only a very moderate income, and thinking that money was no hindrance to devotion, she *ried all she could to find a legal' flaw in the proceeding, but without success. While Felix was still sowing his wild oats and persecuted by the Jews, his pious cousin imagined that this was the proper time for working the salvation of his soul. Being still rich at that time, he thought it necessary to win first the confidence of Felix by' keeping at bay the hooked-nosed fiends who troubled 268 . Ten Years of my Life. * him, a well-conceived stratagem which would have been per- haps successful if my poor husband had had any talent for de- votion. I am, however, sorry to say that he was then very worldly, and though he consented to live with his would-be reformer in Paris, and even to join in his devotions and prayer meetings, he cheated him in a very wicked manner. Every night when the princely apostle had dismissed him after prayer with his blessing to his bed, my scapegrace hus- band stealthily left the house through a back window, where his friend and comrade Kalmar waited for him to join some meeting, which was no prayer meeting, whilst Prince Charles, somewhat suspecting the effect of his teaching, watched the front door of the house. When my husband was induced to leave for America, his cousin crammed his trunks with tracts and pious books, the latter to be studied on the passage and the former to be dis- tributed amongst the savages and civilized wicked Americans. When living for a time with my husband in New York, I found all these packages still unopened. Discovering these spiritual treasures, I presented them to my Methodist landlord, acquiring by this gift an undeserved odour of sanctity. On Ai)ril lo I moved at last to my new lodgings. It was in the first storey of a nice house, consisting of ten rooms, and was very convenient. Though married several years I hud never had a home of my own, and having lived much m the camp and there become used to shift-making of every descrip- tion, I felt highly satisfied with the completeness of riiy ar- rangements and with my nice furniture, though it was in fact very simple. As ofticers can never be certain how long they will be permitted to stay at one place, moderation in this re- spect was strongly advised by Mrs. General von S and my poetical friend, the wife of the Lieutenant-Colonel, who were my tutors and teachers in everything concerning domestic arrangements and housekeeping. Though I felt extremely proud and happy to have at last a home of my own, it was still not exactly what I longed for, for my ideas of home differed from those of people in Germany, and were more those of the English. I have mentioned before that the grandmother of our regi- ment, Mrs. von S , was an excellent housekeeper. She was delighted to find me utterly ignorant in this respect, and My First Home. 269 most eager to listen to her culinary and other revelations. As the pay of officers is rather insufficient, considering the posi- tion they are expected to hold in society, strict economy be- comes a necessity with them, and Mrs. von S was an adept in all these mysteries. She had calculated to the farth- ing the price of everything, and tried especially to impress upon my mind the great truth that one silbergroschen spent regularly a day makes twelve thalers a year ; therefore ten sil- bergroschens a day make a hundred and twenty thalers, a cal- culation which struck me with awe. This great truth therefore became my guiding star through the maze of housekeeping, and I was such an apt scholar, or at least such an eager one, that I in my ambition not only adhered to the strict rules laid down by Airs, von S-^ , but even surpassed them. That all servants were thieves was a gospel with Mrs. von S ; they were all greedy and wasteful, and all cooks and housemaids had very hungry sweethearts. The men-servants loved their masters' wine and cigars, and the grooms considered it as a great blessing that horses were born mute ; in a word, all re- quired a very sharp look-out and great strictness. The manner in which I followed the housekeeping rules of Mrs. von S had consequences which astonished me very much, and made me very angry with my servants, who all held opinions exactly opposite to those of Mrs. von S . When the cook ran away and other tokens of mutiny transpired amongst the rest of the servants, I was very indignant, and always believed I was in the right ; but this belief was some- what shaken when my dear husband revolted, and acted with an energy to which I was by no means used in reference to me. He said that he became thin and starved with my housekeep- ing ; that he was ashamed of my stinginess ; that he wanted a proper household, becoming his station ; and that Mrs. von S with her starvation code might go to Jericho. He en- gaged a perfect cook and made other alterations, which in- creased the silbergroschens spent a day to an alarming figure. Though shaking my head I had to submit, and we lived as he thought proper. His relatives seemed to approve of it, and to be rather pleased with our house, for our spare room for visitors was occupied all the year round by some of them, and not rarely I had to give up my own bedroom. Looking over my diary of that time, I am astonished to find 270 Ten lears of niy Life. that scarcely one day passed without some entertainment, party, or pleasure excursion. This was very natural. Officers have much time to spare, and are in general a light-living people and very social amongst themselves. The five or six ladies who formed the particular set to^ which I belonged saw each other daily, and there was always amongst them occasion for some entertainment, and besides we gave regular parties each in her turn. When relatives from outside came to visit one of us they had of course to be entertained, and thus an occasion for a smaller or larger party v/as never wanting. Speaking of strange visitors reminds me of an incident occurring at that time, in which I played a part as a match- maker, and very successfully, for the couple brought together by my means are very hapi)y. A few pages back I mentioned that, while living in Rorschach, a young Miss von D , from Kurland, was confided to my care by her father. She was a very pretty girl, and her photograph was in my album. We had in our regiment a Lieut.-Colonel von O , who was a bachelor, and expected by everybody to remain one to the end of his life, as the hearts of all our young ladies and their mothers had been exercised on him in vain ; he was a very agreeable and therefore desirable man. One day, when looking over my album, he seemed to be spellbound by the photograph of Miss von D , inquiring most eagerly who that beautiful lady was. Now chance would have it that I had just received a letter from her, informing me that she and her father were at Schlangenbad. Salm and myself, who liked both Miss von D and the Lieut.-Colonel, thought that it might lead to a match if we brought them together, so we invited Baron D and his daughter to meet us at Binger- briick, where we went, accompanied by Lieut.-Colonel von O , of whom I had written nothing to Miss von D . The Lieut.-Colonel was still more charmed by the life original of the photograph which had inflamed him, and Miss von D seemed also to be pleased with him, though she did not suspect his serious intentions. The Lieut.-Colonel was deeply in love, and as a proof of that fact may serve the circumstance that he had not the courage to ' pop the question,^ though he was several limes alone with Miss von D , and that she returned to her Rus- sian home without the Colonel having unburdened his heart. Match-making. 271 I, of course, had taken care to inform Miss von D of the sickness of the poor man, and though she was at that time not in love with him, she hked him much, and I was justified in my belief that he would not be refused. To propose in writing would not do, and it was at last resolved that the Colonel should remember an invitation of the Baron's, made to us all at a dinner, to come and visit him in Kurland. This Lieut.-Colonel O really did, somewhat to the embarrassment of the Baron, who probably suspected his intention, and did not want to part with his lovely daughter, for he took the utmost care not to leave him alone with her for a single moment. Thus the day of departure approached without the Colonel having had an opportunity of making a declaration to the lady. He was in despair, when at last a chance was offered. The Baron had to leave the room for a few moments, and when he returned the proposal of the Colonel had been accepted by his daughter. He stormed and fumed, but the young lady had a will of her own, and the Colonel returned to Coblentz a happy man. When the weather was fine we made visits in the country, either riding there on horseback or going by rail or steamer. An Irishman, Mr. ]\Ioriarty, had bought the old Castle of Lahnstein, a short distance from Coblentz, and restored it in a splendid manner. He was an agreeable man ; we became acquainted with him and savv him often, either in Coblentz or at his castle, where he used to receive us in the most friendly and hospitable manner. Another castle not far from Coblentz belonged to the princely family of S W , and was occupied by the Princess Dowager of W . She had been once a great and celebrated beauty, and was still a strikingly handsome, very ac- complished, and most amiable woman. Her castle was splendid, and its church and chapels quite delighted me. With all this and all her riches she was not happy, for her sons gave her a great deal of trouble. The eldest son and heir was such a scapegrace that he was judged unfit to become the head of that branch of the house of \V . He was therefore induced to renounce his birthright in favour of his second brother. But, alas ! this second son turned out no better, and both these brothers shocked the whole high nobility by marrying to Jew girls — sisters, daughters of a Berlin usurer. ti72 Ten Years of my Life. Great exertions were made at that time to persuade the second son to renounce the majorate and his hereditary seat in the Prussian First Chamber in favour of his youngest brother, who was then an office* in a Prussian regiment of cavalry, and married to a French princess related to the Bour- bon family. This he refused to do, and also to be divorced from his wife. He said, ' I love my wife, and as to the ma- jorate and to my seat in the chamber, no law can deprive me of my right ; I certainly shall maintain it.' This he did, and on his becoming of age his mother had to leave Castle S , to the great regret of all the neighbouring families, who of course sided with the mother, with whom they had been on the most friendly footing for many years, and who retired to a country-seat she bought on the Lake of Geneva. To atone in some way at least for our, not idle, but rather gay and useless manner of living, a number of Catholic ladies had formed a sewing society, which met regularly on certain days for a few hours in the Convent St. Barbara. My poetical friend, who was a most zealous Catholic, belonged of course to this society, and I became a member likewise. She also induced me now and then to go with her to some other con- vent, where we did not make clothes for the poor, as in St. Barbara, but where we mended the garments of the priests, which required repairing very badly. The Queen visited us not rarely in St. Barbara's Convent, and on seeing me there she was very kind, and expressed her approval at my being occupied in this manner. Though I liked pleasure, gay company, and dancing, I never felt more satisfied than I did at home, quietly sitting at the sewing-machine I had bought, and which I learnt to use extremely well ; or going out for a walk with one or two of our friends, and passing some pleasant hours in one of the public restaurant gardens in the New Promenade of the Queen, listening to the music of the band, or chatting amongst our- selves. In England or in America this kind of enjoyment is utterly denied to ladies belonging to society, and all of them would shudder at the very idea of sitting down in a public garden amongst smoking and beer-drinking people of all classes. Whoever has travelled in Germany will find it, however, everywhere, and agree that it is rather pleasant, for the Puhlic Gardens in Germviny. 273 Germans behave at such places always extremely well, and nobody need be afraid of being annoyed or shocked by noisy or indecent behaviour. Of course I do not speak of the resorts of the low classes. I must say nowhere people understand how to amuse them- selves in a more sensible manner than they do in Germany, and other nations might indeed learn from them. Foreigners visiting Berlin, Vienna, Dresden, or any other of the larger German towns, are always surprised on visiting one of those public places, where many thousands of persons — men, women, and children — are sitting at little tables, eating and drinking, and chatting, or listening to most excellent music. Every- thing goes on pleasantly, and scarcely ever anv disagreeable sound is heard or any quarrel occurs. Everybody is drinking wine or beer, but drunken people are rare, and one may live for months in a city without ever seeing in the streets an intoxicated person. The presence of the Queen in Coblentz was always hailed with great pleasure, for she was much beloved by all classes, and showed herself very gracious and amiable towards every- body. To be noticed by her and to be invited to her parties was of course the aim and ambition of a great many people, and as she was so very kind, her kindness was not rarely much tried by the importunity of persons who found means of being admitted, though they might better have stayed away, as their position did not entitle them to such an honour. The Queen gave generally two great balls, to which every- body was invited — that is, the people of all classes ; and also two great cafes-dan sants in the garden, where ladies appeared in bonnets and street toilet, and where dancing was going on on the gravel. She also frequently gave little dinners to a more select com- pany, and parties of a similiar kind, where the ladies appeared in evening toilet, though not in low dresses. The same was the case at her teas, to which were invited rarely more than twenty or twenty-five persons, and which were of a more inti- mate character. The Queen sat there often occupied with some embrodiery, or a lottery was arranged for little trifles, bought or worked for that purpose. The great amiability of Iiei* Majesty made these parties always very pleasant. o ST-i Ten Years of my Life. As it is almost impossible to mention all interesting things and persons I saw during my ^stay in Coblentz, if continuing in the manner in which I commenced, in hope to save space I think it better to follow my diary, and dwell on those inci- dents which seem to deserve it. At the end of June my Catholic lady friends was greatly ex- cited, for they expected the arrival of the newly-appointed Catholic Army Bishop, Mr. Namszanowski. The church was beautifully decorated with flowers and garlands in his honour, and on June 26 all the ladies of the sewing society assembled in their rooms in the church, where the bishop was presented to us. He called at my house at noon, when Mrs. von G and Mrs. von C were with me ; we all knelt down, kissed his ring, and received his bles^«ing ; but Salm would not kneel down, though he also kissed the ring of the bishop. He was, however, frequently with him, and on July i we took supper with him and four other priests at my enthusiastic friend's. When the season in Ems commenced we went frequently there. On July 10 we rode over to pay our respects to the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg, the sister of our beloved Emperor, whom she resembles very much, especially in man- ner, her face beaming with true kindness. Jimmy, who had accompanied me on this visit, as he had been especially invited by the Grand Duchess, who is a great loverof dogs, established himself at once on the sofa, and she was so pleased with my impudent long-legged friend that she asked for a photograph of him. On the T5th Countess Haake called, asking me and my husband to come at four o'clock to see her, to pay our respects to Princess Liegnitz, who would be there. As my husband was in Ems I went alone. Princess Liegnitz, the consort of Frederick William IH., the father of our Emperor, who is much respected and beloved by the whole Royal Family, re- ceived me very graciously, and when I went next morning to the station to see her off she was so kind as to present me with one of the many boquets she had received. On the same day I went with my husband, and the Here- ditary Prince of Anholt and 'Uncle Plerrmann,' to Ransbach, shooting roebucks. There I saw for the first time a roebuck in the wood, and heard his voice. German hunters call his cry ' schmaelen/ which verbally translated means scolding. We The Queen a Godmother. 275 remained until the iSthin Ransbach, and though we did not kill a single buck we passed a very pleasant time in the wood, and in quite a romantic shooting-lodge of Couut Herrmann, which reminded me of the time of my camp life. On the 2oth we went to Ems, paying our respects to the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg, and not finding her at home I left the photographs which she had requested. On the Pro- menade, his Majesty the King sent word that he wished to see me. He gave me his hand, walked with me about half an hour, and was very kind and gracious. Both the King and the Queen interested themselves very much about many things of which I imagined they had scarcely time to think. They asked many questions in reference to our domestic life, and that of other officers ; inquired even into details, which all seemed to interest them. When I, some days later, sat at dinner in Ems, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg sent for me, and I went with Jimmy to nay her my respects. Mrs. von F had given birth to her usual baby — the ninth, I believe — a sturdy little boy, and her Majesty the Queen honoured him with being his godmother. As the Queen wanted to arrange about the christening, she quite un- expectedly desired our attendance in the afternoon of the 27 th. Felix being out shooting, I had to go with Mrs. General von S , Countess Haake, who is rather strict, noticed at once the absence of my husband, but Colonel von Stiehle, the com- mander of our regiment, had already excused him to her Majesty. The christening took place next day in the house of Mr. von F , who was one of the chamberlains of her Majesty. About fifty persons were present in the dining-room, where an altar had been arranged. The Queen held the heavy little boy, who was called August, during all the service, which lasted nearly twenty minutes, and only gave him up at a cer- tain part of the ceremony, the nature of which did not permit a Protestant to touch the child, for Mr. von F — — was a Catholic. In the afternoon of next day we went to a concert given in a public garden in the Queen's Promenade, the Swiss House. Both their Majesties . were present ; I was sitting near the Queen, and the King, friendly as usual, shook hands with me. When we next day were sitting in St. Bardara's Convent, £70 Ten Years of my Life. sewing for the poor, the Queen visited us, staying for half an hour, and having a kind word'for everyone present. When out on the Promenade with my husband in the even- ing, we had the greatest pleasure of meeting a dear old friend from America, to whom we owed much gratitude, and who, under all circumstances had acted to us extremely kindly. Baron Gerolt zur Leyen, the former German minister in Wash- ington. I have already spoken of him on another occasion, and of the great esteem which he enjoyed in America. Dur- ing the twenty-five years he represented Prussia he did a great deal to faciliate the communication between Germany and the United States, which was thankfully acknowledged by all mer- chants. It created, therefore, great indignation in America when the cause became known which induced him to resign his place. Though this happened only at the end of the late Freiich war, I shall mention it here, as I may not have another opportunity. Mr. George Pancroft was minister of the United States in Berlin. Though I was told that he, as an historical author, could not be compared either to Prescot or Motley, his volu- minous work about the United States had won for him a fair well-merited reputation, as historical authors are rather rare in his country, Mr. Bancroft had studied in Germany, anci vmderstood the language, though he spoke it rather indifferently. Whether he had all the qualities required of a diplomatist I cannot judge, but I know that he was very agreeable to the Prussian Government, and utterly distasteful to all Americans. That was very natural, for he showed not only everywhere his great admiration for Germany, and especially Prussian insti- tutions, but courted and flattered all high-titled persons, whilst he neglected the Americans who either lived in Berlin or pass- ed through, offending them often rather grossly. The President was frequently urged to recall him, but for a long time without effect, as he was so agreeable to the Prussian Court, whose interest he had more at heart than that of his country — said his enemies amongst the Americans. Mr. Bancroft made himself very often ridiculous in company by his eccentric behaviour, his nonsensical speeches in bad Gciman, Szc, and said, when he had had a glass of wine, some- times rather undiplomatic things. Once at a dinner, I think given by Mr, von der Heved, when aftairs between France and f^rr Mr. Bancroft. ^11 Germany predicted a near rupture, he said that if a war should occur between the two countries the United States would cer- tainly side with Germany. Such words from the lips of administer could not fail to cre- ate some sensation ; the French minister in Berlin reported them to Paris, and the Secretary of Foreign Affairs of Napo- leon expressed his astonishment to General Dix, then minis- ter in Paris, who was still more astonished. He wrote a friendly letter to Mr. Bancroft, which was answered rudely. The in- cautious words spoken in his cups by the old man were reported to Washington and created a diplomatic ebullition. How Baron Gerolt was mixed up in this affair I do not know, and how he displeased Mr. Bancroft neither, but the latter had a grudge against him, and avenged himself in a manner speaking by no means well for the character of that minister, and which can- not be patched up by all the laudatory articles in certain Ger- man papers. When the war between Germany and France broke out in 1870, Baron Gerolt was very much astonished by a letter from Mr. von Thile, who replaced Count Bismarck during his ab- sence from Berlin. He was warfted to be more cautious in his expressions and behaviour than heretofore, as Mr. Ban- croft had complained of his comporting himself in a manner likely to produce bad feelings between Germans and Ameri- cans. As this utterly unfounded denunciation had not the desired effect, Mr. Bancroft repeated his accusation against ' his friend ' the Baron in still stronger terms, adding that he tried to in- duce American subjects to enlist in the Prussic-yi army. Though the latter part of his denunciation must have appeared ridicu- lous to Count Bismarck, this minister had some confidence in Mr. Bancroft's veracity and honour, and wrote to Baron Gerolt a rather sharp letter, ending with the threat that, if he did not me rid his ways, the Count would be obliged to request his Majesty to call Baron Gerolt to Berlin to defend himself This cruel letter mortified the old gentleman very much, and caused him to give in his resignation. The speech which President Grant made on his leave-taking, in which he flatly contradicted the base falsehoods communicated by his minis- ter to the Prussian Premier, and also the sentiments which were expressed in regard to his doings at a dinner given in his hon- 278 Ten Years of my Life. our by the most eminent njerchants of New York, afforded him some comfort. ■• In acknowledgment of his merit, and as a testimony of the regard in which Baron Gerolt ^vas held in the United States, his friends there presented him with a splendid piece of plate of solid parcel-gilt silver, which arrived in Berlin when the Baron had just arrived there. The Empress desired to see it, and at a dinner given on the birthday of the Russian Emperor it orna- mented the Imperial dinner-table, where it was generally admired. On hearing that the Baron was in Berlin, the Em- peror and the Empress at once sent a gentleman to his hotel, congratulating him on the reception of such a beautiful and well-merited testimonial. On hearing this Prince Bismarck, who was present at that dinner, called the messenger back, saying, * Please tell the Baron the same from me.' Though the resignation of the old minister had been granted with all honours, the title of actual Privy Councillor, with the predicate Excellency having been bestowed upon him, there had still remained a cloud between him and the great Premier, and this message therefore was highly gratifying to the worthy old diplomatist. On August 7 we drove to Ems. On the Promenade I met his Majesty the King, who gave me his hand, and asked whether we were going to the theatre. I would have liked to go but I could not, having Jimmy with me, and that spoilt fel- low would have cried himself to death if shut up in an hotel room, or placed under the charge of a stranger. Next morning I got up at live o'clock, and Felix, myself, and Captain von C , with his wife, rode on horseback to Ems. When the King saw our party he came and bade us good morning. He was extremely gracious and kind, patted my horse, and said he was pleased to see me on horseback. The kind notice which their Majesties took of me caused of course many pangs of jealously, even amongst my nearest friends. Mrs. General von S endeavoured to persuade me that the King had been much displeased at my appearing on horseback near the Promenade in Ems. She knew for certain from reliable sources. I did not believe it, for if the King had been displeased he would not have come to bid us good morning, and his noble, open face would not have had such a kind expression. Duchess of Ossuma. 279 If I had entertained any doubts in this respect they would have been removed next evening, when we attended a great ball given by her Majesty the Queen. The King was as kind as usual, and made some jocular remarks on the too-long train of my dress, which my dressmaker had sent immediately before the ball, and which hindered me in dancing. I was at that ball introduced to the Duchess of Ossuna — Eleonore, born Princess Salm-Salm, and first cousin of my hus- band. The Duchess is an extremely handsome, most elegant and amiable woman, and we soon became great friends. On the following morning, the nth, we were invited to a dejeuner at Castle Sayn by the Princess of Sayn-Wittgen stein. The Queen with one lady attendant, the King with his aides. Prince Reuss, his minister in Petersburg, my husband and I, were the only guests. On the 1 2th my busband was out on the drill-ground with the whole regiment, and i visited with Mrs. von G the Convent of Moselweiss, where were forty-three nuns and sixty- five pupils. Very much pleased with everything I saw there, we went home, and met on our way her Majesty the Queen, who stopped and spoke to us. When we had left, she sent to recall us to look at the monkey of a poor Savoyard, whose good luck it was to meet this Royal fairy. We had the honour of accompanying her Majesty on her way to the palace. When I, on the 14th, went to Ems to pay some visits, I met in a coupe of the train Lord and Lady Palmerston, who were on their way to Wiesbaden, and we were soon engaged in lively conversation. It was now the time of the military manoeuvres, and though I had been in two wars I had never seen such a military show, for what I saw in America was not to be compared to it. On August 17 I was in Colonge, when an officer accompanied me to the drill-ground to see the cavalry manoeuvres. I was quite delighted with the beautiful horses and the wonderful precision with which all movements were executed. When the manoeuvres were over, the General commanding the troops presented to me his whole corps of officers, and made a very flattering little speech, expressing his pleasure in welcoming me on their exercise-ground. On the 20th I attended the manoeuvres of the infantry, com- manded by General von S , which were also very fine ; and 280 Ten Years of my Life. on the 2ist I went to a cafe-dansa?tt given by her Majesty the Queen, which lasted until pasi seven, where I danced a great deal and amused myself much. Thus I passed a rather gay season, every day bringing with it some party, and a little rest was desirable. I therefore ac- cepted with pleasure an invitation to Castle Anholt, where sev- eral of our male relatives were expected for partridge-shooting. I remained a fortnight, and we passed our time in a quiet plea- sant manner. ' Her Majesty returned to Coblentz in November, and we were invited to tea on the 4th. I had the honour of sitting next to her on her right-hand side, and she was very kind, as usual, to my husband and myself. The Queen showed us the splendid album of the Rhine with which she had been pre- sented. On November 8 I went with Felix to Neuwied, to pay our respects, and to congratulate Princess Elizabeth on her engagement with Prince Charles of Roumania. The heredi- tary Prince showed us some of the rooms which were arranged and decorated for the wedding, which was to take place on the iSth. On the loth we attended a very large party given by her Majesty, where we heard some Swedish singers engaged for that occasion. I was presented to the Grand Duchess of Baden and Princess William of Baden, whose lady of honour. Baroness Beust, called on me next day. On the 13th the Queen gave a ball, where I amused myself very much, for her Majesty was so extremely kind and amiable. I danced with the Grand Duke of Weimar in the same set with the Grand Duchess of Baden and the Princess William. On the 17th we were invited to a breakfast at her Majesty's. It was only a small party, consisting of the Prince and Princess of Plohenzollern, Prince and Princess of Wied, Count and Countess of Flanders, the newly-married couple, the Prince and Princess of Roumania, with their Roumanian cortege, and Princess von Solms-Braunfels. Except Countess von P . who had to attend her Majesty, no ladies of Coblentz were present. In the afternoon we drove to Neuweid, where we arrived at five o'clock, just in time for the dinner, which was a grand, ceremonious affair, where all the rules of etiquette and rank The Count of Flanders. 281 were strictly observed. The Prince of Roumania had brought with him all his ministers and a number of ladies and attend- ants, who reminded me much of the Mexicans, at least in out- ward appearance. Most of these Roumanian nobles I should not have liked to meet in a lonely road. After dinner was a concert, followed by fireworks, and it w^as not before two o'clock next morning that we arrived in Coblentz. We did not, however, fail to be at the railroad station to say good-bye to the Princess of Roumania, who left for her new home, and to give her the boqiid (f usage. At the dinner in Neuwied I was presented to the Count of Flanders, the brother of the poor Empress Carlotta of Mexico, and married to a daughter of the Prince of Hohenzollern. The Count is a tall, agreeable man, with whom I had a long conversation, which was somewhat difucult on account of his bad hearing. He asked much about Mexico, and said many flattering things to me. Speaking of the illness of his sister, he said that there was no hope whatever of her recovery. The next day being our sewing day at St. Barbara's, the Queen came to say adieu to the ladies, as she was soon going to Berlin. Salm and I saw her, however, on the 22nd, when her Majesty had invited about twenty-five persons for tea. The Queen arranged a little lottery with cards for the comj)aTiy. Salm won a bust of our dear King, and I a match-box. Next evening we went to the inauguration of the theatre ; the Queea and her whole court were present to see ' Fideho,' which was very badly given. The time until Christmas was a continuous string of parties. I, of course, had also to give some cofiees and teas, and be- sides to entertain our circle when it was my turn. I longed indeed for some rest, and was glad when we went, on Decem- ber 25 — both Felix's and my birthday — to Castle Anholt, where we found only the family. The 26th was the birthday of Prince Alfred, Felix's brother, which was celebrated in a quiet, pleasant manner, only amongst ourselves. On the 29th was to take place a shooting-party, a battue, and several other members of the family arrived — the Duchess of Ossuna, the Duke of Croy, the Princes George and Philip, and Princess Stephanie Croy. The Duchess of Ossuna and myself went in a pony-carriage to see the battue. I took a little gun with me and fired at a hare, but did not harm i^ 1282 Ten Years of my Life. though I killed one next day, when the batiue was continued. 1 remained until one o'clock" p.m. on the grounds, when the ladies came to look at the battue. As it was very cold and the snow very deep, I returned with them to the Castle. Next day, being the last in the year, we went skating in the morning, and remained together in the evening until New Year. I went to my bed very sad and with a very heavy heart, for I could not anticipate anything good for the New Year. It is true Salm's wishes had been gratified ; he was in a posi- tion in the army of which he was proud ; we had a little home ; society treated us as well as could be, and their Majesties and the whole Royal Family received us in a manner which affected me very much and raised the envy of many. In other respects we were not to be envied, however, for our position and our means to maintain the same were out of all proportion. Though I am not of an envious character, I could not re- press some bitter feelings, looking on the difference between us and other members of our family. I was not indifferent to the social advantages derived from the high title we bore, but I could not be blind either to its disadvantages, circumstanced as we were, and which made it almost a derision. My sense of justice revolted against the law which treated two brothers so differently. Whilst one lived in a magnificent castle, sur- rounded by some square miles of broad acres belonging to him, and yielding him a large rent-roll, the other had scarcely so much a month as cost sometimes one dinner at his brother's castle. This brother was indeed a good and kind brother, but still it was hard to depend on his good will, and, moreover, he had a large family. This feeling of injustice was atill increased in comparing the merit of my husband with that of other members of his family. A long time ago their ancestors had been men of fame ; but since two centuries there was scarcely one amongst them who had done anything worth the notice of the world, whilst my husband at least had won fame for himself. He was a Prince, like his brother, and it was expected of him that he should live according to his title, whilst tThe san^e laws which gave it him deprived him of the means to sustain it. In this respect the English custom seemed to me far more reasonable. There only the head of the family has the title Living Beyond our Means. 2eemed to both of us, Minna and myself, that we had heard ihe rattling of the funeral car. Silently we fell into each other's arms in a close embrace, niingling our tears ; and our fervent prayers for husband and .on went up together to the throne of the Almighty. v^\i CHx^PTER XX. My preparations for the field — Miss Louisa Runkel — Leave-talcing in Ati- holt — Prince Alfred and three sons in the war — Difficulties about a horse — I try impossibilities — Make them possible — With General von Steinmetz, chief of the first army — £n route — My defeat — Hermeskeil — Treves — Disappointment — Saarlouis — Impiiident ducks — Henswei- ler— ^Gloious news — In a brewery — Prince Adalbert of Prussia — Ars Admiral on diy land — The distant thunder — Of Spichem— Saarbruck — Meeting Corvin — Entering on my duties — The starving French prisoners — Confusion — The battle-field — Arrival of the King -A raid on the Royal kitchen — Carrying off my booty — Caught by his Majesty — My confusion — In the Hospitals — The i8th of August — Fearful dreams — Vague rumours — Starting for the front — Felix killed — Florentine killed — How my husband died — letter of Rev. Mr. Farmet — Letter of Salm's .seivant — My vow — Going on a sad eiTand — A fearful night in Remilly — Ars sur-Moselle — A melancholy task — ' Mother Simon ' — How I found my poor husband — Bringing home the bodies — Funeral in Anholt — Last words of love. Time and occupation are the only effective remedies against sorrow. I had no leisure to indulge in the 'luxury of grief — which is, however, only a luxury for the weak. As I was to go with the army also, or at least to follow it as close as possible, I had to finish my preparations, and next to consult with Professor Busch. Mrs. von Corvin and I left at nine o'clock in the steamboat for Bonn, where we found Miss Louisa Runkel, who was to accompany and remain with me in the war. She had been recommended very highly by Princess Wied, and after having seen her at Coblentz I accepted her as a companion. She had also attended the hos- pitals and learnt how to nurse the wounded, and was desirous of going with me, because her two brothers were officers serv- ing in the army of which Professor Busch was surgeon-general, and of course she wanted to be as near to them as possible. Confusion in Oherhausen. 307 Princess Minna arrived in Bonn later in the day. After supper Mrs. von Corvin left for Frankfort at twelve o'clock P.M., and thus closed that very sad day. Next morning Dr. Busch came and gave me a letter for Prince Alfred, my brother-in-law in Anholt, and instructions in reference to another which I was to write to Prince Pless, whom the King had placed at the head of the sanitary com- missioners formed by the Johanniters, Knights of Malta, and otherwise. I left Bonn together with Minna, who returned to her Castle Rhede, near Wesel. We had to remain three hours in Oher- hausen, waiting for a train to take us farther, ^nd I profited by this opportunity to write my letter to Prince Pless. There was great confusion in Oberhausen, for a great num- ber of people for miles around had collected to see the trains pass, all filled with soldiers, and following each other nearly every hour. It was a most lively scene. The soldiers were in the best spirits, for the enthusiasm with which they were greeted by the people on their whole way throughout Germany could not but produce the most cheering eftect. The whole journey from the kir east of the monarchy to the Rhine was an uninterrupted festival. There was no window on the road- side from which the soldiers were not cheered, and even from houses that scarcely could be seen from the road handkerchiefs waved them a farewell. One could see the heart of the peo- ple was in the war, and foreigners who happened to be at that time in Germany were struck with admiration. Princess Mmna left me in Wesel, and I took leave of her and of dear old Jimmy, who was to stay with my cook in Castle Rhede. I was very sorry to part v/ith my faithful com- panion, who had been wich me in two wars ; bat now he had become rather old and spoiled, and the hardships of a cam- paign would have been too much for him ; moreover, he was always frightened out of his senses on hearing a shot. I arrived in Anholt at half-past one a.m., and found the whole iamily up to receive me. As I had to leave at five o'clock, and Prince Alfred also, we did not go to bed at all. Though I had gone to Anholt to say good-bye to the family I also went there in hopes of getting from my brother-in-law a horse, as he had so many in his stables, and I^'elix had taken with him his two and also my horse, i was, however, much o 08 Ten Years of my Life. disappointed in my expectations, for my brother-in-law had really no horse to spare. His'eldest son, who was an ofiicer in the reserve, and attached to the staff of General von Goe- ben, mounted himself out of his father's stables, as did two other sons who were both ofticers, and the father himself, who was a Knight of Malta, went with the armv. Whilst Alfred staye4 in Cologne with the Knights of Malta, I went on to Bonn, where I arrived at three p.m. dead-beat. It was good luck that I arrived at all that day, for in Cologne I was told that no passenger trains would leave for several days. Seeing, however, a train ready to start, and inquiring I heard that it was an extra train for the Hereditary Princes of Hohenzollern and Weimar." The Prince of Hohenzollern, a very agreeable, unpretending gentleman, was the innocent cause of this war, as is generally known. As I was well ac- quainted with him he permitted very readily my travelling with him, and presented me to the Hereditary Piince of Weimar, who was going to join the head-quarters of the Crown Prmce of Prussia. The latter was still a very young gentleman. Prince Plohenzolletn, who was a colonel, went also to the Crown Prince. On the 30th I received an answer from Prince Pless, telling me to go to President von Bernuth in Cologne to receive from him a ticket of legitimation, and I started at hve o'clock p.m., accom.panied by Prince Leopold Salm-Salm, whom I had seen frequently in Bonn. As no passenger train was lunning we had to go in a transport train. I received from the President von Bernuth the first legitimation card issued in Cologne and also the white band with the red cross. We returned cc Bonn at ten o'clock, sitting with the conductor m die caboose A another transport train. I had still to accomplish several ve.y difficult things, ana that in a rather short tune, viz., 10 procure a legitimation ticket for Miss Runkel, ^o procure a horse, and lastly but by no means leastly the permission to take one with me, and to re- ceive forage for it, which was rather important. Having heard from Prince Leopold that Baron Oppenheim in Colonge had a horse, which he might perhaps be inclined to sell, I called on that gentleman, but I was disappointed, as he dared not sell me the horse, because it was rather unmanageable and a run. away General iwi Steimnetz. 309 I went on August i, to Coblentz, where Mr. von Pommer- Esche gave me most readily a ticket of legitimation for Miss Runkel. If I bad intended to go only as a simple nurse to the war, I might have done so now ; but that was not my in- tention. I wanted to be in a position to do more and to be officially attached to the staff of the army like an officer. Everybody to whom I spoke about it shrugged his shoulders and declared such a thing to be impossible. It is however my belief that the only way to success is not to believe in im- possibilities, and further it is one of my practical rules, if I wish a thing always to ask it directly from the highest authority. The highes. person in the army in which Dr. Busch was surgeon-general was General von Steinmetz, its commander-in- chief. He had been described to me as an extremely strict and rough man, of whom everybody was afraid. My experi- ence taught me that these rough men are frequently very rea- sonable, and I was resolved to try m-y luck with the dreaded general. Early in the morning I went to his head-quarters, where my request io see the general ]eemed to create quite a conster- nation. Not being frightened at all I insisted, and an officer, though shaking his head and shrugging his shoulders, was in- duced to take in mj- card, and co the surprise of everybody I was admitted The commander di the Fir;^t Army, General von Steinmetz, was a very kind little man with snow white hair, with large blue eyes, and a look like that Oi the eagle. When we sat down i commenced to explain what I wished, namely to be ]jermitted to accompany the staff on horseback and to be al- lowed forage and quarters for my horse and myself. I of course supported my rather extraordinary request — almost unheard of in a Prussian army — with all reasons and statements at my disposition, and in the most wonderfully broken German. The general did not say a word, but .uddenly rose and rang the bell, — not to show me out as I leared for a moment, but to send for his quarterma.ler- general. When that officer ap- peared the general asked whether it was possible to grant my request, and it was granted on the officer's declaration that it certainly could be done if his Excellency would order it. Well, I had ray permission, but I had still no horse, and there was not to be had a saddle-horse in the whole city. . The pro- 310 Ten Years of my Life. prietor of the Triersche Hof bad however a doiible-pony, which I thought might do, though he never had a saddle on his back. Mr. Mars was persuaded to part with it for two hundred thalers. This care off my mind I left Coblentz at three o'clock with Miss liunkel and my pony, and was very glad to find in the train Professor Busch. At six o'clock we arrived at the Vic- toria Hotel in Bingen, where we stayed the night. Next morning we left at ten o'clock a.m., and arrived at four o'clock in Birkenfield, a little quaint place belonging to the Duchy of Oldenburg. From there we went straight to Her- meskeil, Dr. Busch mounted on his beautiful mare ' Nornia/ and I very proudly on my double-pony. Now I have ridden all sorts of horses in many different countries, and had the re- putation of being rather at home in my saddle ; but this queer pony seemed to despise all my equestrian art, and to have de- cided on my humiliation He plunged and kicked in the most atrocious manner to get rid of the strange thing on his back. Not succeeding in it, however, he was struck with a bright idea on seeing a very convenient deep ditch. He jumped into it with a sudden determination, rolling over in de- light, and propelling me on to the opposite side, where I per- formed sundry acrobat movements to the astonishment of the spectators. Much satisfied with his success, the pony got up and shovv^ed his exultation at my deieat by jumping and kick- ing like mad. He was, however, secured, and when I got up- on his back again he behaved henceforth quite reasonably, kicking only once- the Old Schiinmcl o. Dr. Busch ridden by his servant. The whole village of Hermeskeil was filled with troops, but we succeeded in rinding a room which I shared with Miss E-unkel. Everybody was much excited, for th^ repor: cir- culated that the French had taken Saarbruck. We had been ordered to go to Treves, where- we should find the head-quarters of General von Steinmetz When we arrived at 6 o'clock p.m. in that old city we were greatly dis- appointed on hearing that the general had left, and nobody could tell where he was. Dr Busch sent out telegraphic des- patches in all directions to find out the general's headquarters, but we had to go to bed without being the wiser. In the night at 2 o'clock a.m., somebody knocked against German Successes. 811 my door. I was rather freightened, for I thought the French were in the city ; but it was Prince Leopold, my nephew, who had arrived from General Steinmetz's head-quarters, and thus relieved me much. Next morning at five o'clock we left per rail for Saarlouis, a little fortress near the French frontier. It was August 4, and we found the people much excited and very busy, for the French were expected every moment to appear before the fortress. While waiting near the station I saw two nice plump ducks waddling most incautiously before my eyes, and anticipating the scarcity of victuals always to be found where large masses of troops are collected, and remembering my old campaign principle never to be short of provisions, I took information, most dangerous for the welfare of the said ducklings, and ac- quired them from the owner by means of persuasive words and silver, and the skilfully tlirown-out suggestion that the expected French were extremely fond of fowl. We rode from Saarlouis to Hensweiler in company with my nephew, who left us here for the head-quarters of General von Goeben. We managed to dine in that village, and then con- tinued our' march to Tholey the head-quarters of General Steinmetz, who received us very kindly. The threatening movement of the French against Saarbruck had compelled him to advance at once, and that was the reason why we did not find him in Treves. After much trouble we found a room in the house of a notary, whose wife gave us a supper for which Dr. Busch paid amply by saving her dangerously ill baby. As there was only one bed in the room we divided its contents. Miss Runkel remaining in the bed and I establishing myself on the floor. Next day the news of the battle of Weissenburg was received, and on the following arrived the still more glorious of Worth, which caused much rejoicing. On Saturday the 6th, we were for the first time billeted in a large beer brewery in Hensweiler, where Prince Adalbert of Prussia was also quartered. The Prince had arrived the day before in Tholey, where I had paid him a visit which he re- turned. His Royal Highness was the Admiral of the Prussian fleet, but as he liked to see the fighting he joined the army, as he did in i366, where an aide-de-camp was killed at his 312 Ten Years of my Life. The Prince was, however,' not only a lover of good fighting, he appreciated good eating also ;and, by no means willing to starve or to feast only on French frogs, he had taken with him his cQok and a large kitchen and provision-fourgeon. But alas, the kitchen batteries did not move as fast as the rest of the Prussian batteries, and had not arrived in Hensweiler, to the vexation of the Prince and us also, for he had invited our sanitary party to dine with him. As a dinner without any- thing to eat is still worse than Hamlet without Hamlet, I sug- gested to the Prince a picnic dinner, priding myself on my two ducklings, which the notary's wife in Tholey had roasted for me the day before. It seemed, however, as if the animal creation had contrived to drive out my conceit ; my pony had commenced by humbl- ing me, and now my ducklings put me to shame ; instead of being ducklings they proved to be patriarchs of their tribe, and to judge from their toughness they must have been the very duck couple which Noah took into his ark. The gallant Prince tried in vain the merit of his teeth — whether genuine Hohenzollerns or Abbots I do not know — when our painful exertions were interrupted by a sound I knew only two well, the booming of guns some miles off. The Prince, who was somewhat deaf, as an admiral generally is, would not believe in a cannonade, and said that the sound came from the cellar of the brewery where the empty barrels were having a ball. Everybody knows now that the glorious battle of Spichern was fought on that day, prematurely brought about by accident, spoiling the programme of Moltke, who had planned it for the next day. Next morning we left at eight o'clock for Saa/bruck, where we arrived at noon. The scenes there have been described by hundreds of able pens, and will still be remembered by almost everyone, therefore I need not describe them, and shall restrict myself to my particular department. Riding into the yard of an inn I had the pleasure of meet- ing Corvin, who had arrived before me. He went off to the battlefield, and I attended to my duties with Dr. Busch, with- out changing my riding dress. We visited at once nearly aU the greater hospitals ; but in fact the whole town vvas changed into a hospital, and wounded soldiers were lying in every yard, ill eyery house. The preparations were inadequate to the great Famine. 813 quantity of people who required immediate help, and though the many surgeons did their utmost their number was insigni- ficant, and the whole sanitary machinery still disorganised. The inhabitants of Saarbruck did all they could, but the immense number of troops in and around that town had nearly eaten up all their provisions, and food of any kind, even bread, was becoming very scarce. The wounded suffered most for want of food, for they could not look about for it themselves, and many of them were utterly forgotten and in a state of star- vation. Seeing that my assistance as a nurse was but of little avail, and that I could do more good in another manner, I made it my especial business to hunt for provisions. I applied at once to the Johanniters, but their store-rooms were still empty, though plenty of supplies were on the road, and expected to arrive any moment. 1 therefore went to private persons and houses, and had tolerably good success. It was very natural that our own soldiers had the first claim to our assistance, but there were also in the town a great num- ber of French prisoners and wounded who needed it just as much. Penned up in a yard were about four hundred of them, ofticers and men, who had eaten nothing for about two days, and who were nearly mad with hunger. Some people of Saarbruck and especially ladies showed their sympathy with the French in a rather injudicious manner; and, as caution was much required, the enemy being so near, orders had been given to prevent the communication of these S}'mpathisers with the French prisoners. When therefore a number of ladies arrived with a great quantity of bread for them, they were refused admittance. I fortunately arrived at that time, and seeing that the distressing state of the poor French made delay very cruel and fatal, I used my authority and had the bread distributed amongst them. I shall never forget that scene ; I had never seen the like before. With eyes starting out of their sockets, and with trembling hands the bread was snatched from us and devoured with an avidity which was quite distressing to look at. Those wounded who had found a place in hospitals or bar- racks were bedded well enough, but hundreds of others who had been brought into poor private houses or sheds, were lying on the bare floor not rarely even without a little straw. ^14; Ten Years of my Life. The doctors coniDlained thq.t the wounded were dvinsr under iheir hands for want of stimufents and food and other neces- sary things. Under these circumstances I remembered an offer made to me when 1 was last in Cologne, trying to buy a horse from Baron Edward Op])enheim, the most wealthy banker of that city. • He was a member of the central com- mittee of the association, formed for the assistance of the sol- diers in the field. Hearing that I was going with the Surgeon- General of the Sth Army Corps, he invited me to apply at once to him if I was in want of anything for the wounded. I therefore telegraphed to him for 25c hair mattresses, and in an incredibly short time, sent by an extra train, they arrived, with many other useful things, for which, as I heard afterwards, the Baron paid out of his own pocket. August 8 was a busy day, for from the morning until ten o'clock at night I was dressing wounds,' and comforting and nursing the dying. I am not very sentimental, but the sights I saw and the scenes 1 witnessed, v/ould have pressed tears out of a stone. Habit, however, soon blunted the edge of this feeling sufficiently not to interfere with my duty; had this not been the case I could not have endured it three days. On the 9th, I dressed the wounds of twenty men, whom I found quite alone, without a doctor or a nurse, in the citizens' casino. In the morning my brother-in-law, Prince Alfred, arrived, and I brought him to the Hotel zur Post, where we were quartered, until me moved a short time after to a very comfortable private house at the Schlossplatz. After dinner I rode over with Dr. Busch to the village of Spichern to visit the wounded Frenchmen, of whom we found one hundred and eighty, destitute of everything. We returned to Saarbruck, riding over the battlefield of the sixth, and looked with astonishment at the bastionlike projecting steep, and high hill which our brave soldiers had scaled after a five times renewed attack, led by the renowed fortieth regiment, of whom two companies held at bay for several hours twenty thousand French on August 4. Most of the dead had been buried already, and burying was still going on. The dead were much disfigured, with the exception of a poor boy, whose face had a happy, smiling expression as if he was sleeping and had a most happy dream ; his eyes were closed and his parted lips showed two rows of pearly teeth. Blffxulties of Transport. 315 Returned to Saarbrucken I took at once possession of an empty waggon I encountered in the street, and drove vviih it to the depot of the Johnniters, which was well filled now with X)lenty of provisions. The principal difficulty arose now from the scarcity of means of transportation, for horses, cars, wag- gons, and men were very rare. My waggon was soon filled and Miss Runkel drove with it to Spichern, to distribute the most welcome supplies amongst the French wounded, whilst I visited the hospitals. I was much astonished to find nowhere any of the nuns or sisters of mercy from whose assistance we expected so much. The fact is they were very slow in coming and much needed. I wrote down what was wanted in the different places, and took care myself that the things were procured and delivered into the right hands. Where things were required which were not to be found in the depots I gave money to buy tliem. His Majesty the King, Count Bismarck, and General Moltke arrived in the evening, and my brother-in-law and his son Leopold, who had accompanied us from Spichern, paid at once their respects to the King. I sent next morning a note to Prince Radzivil, to come and see me, but instead of him another aide of the King, Count Waldersee, the brother of our colonel, came, and brought me, from the King, Count Bismarck, and the aid-decamp, about 1 20 thalers in gold, to be applied to the benefit of the wounded. On August II, I was all the morning with the professor in the hospitals assisting him in some wonderful operations. As many of the wounded in the citizens' casino required good and strong beef soup, and other strengthening food, and Dr. Busch said, ' they must have such things or die,' I went to the kitchen of the King and coaxed the head cc>ok, who at once promised to attend to my wishes, and after a time I went over with a soldier carrying some large pails, which the brave chief of the royal kitchen batteries filled with delicious broth, fortified by good beef merged in it. As nobody was at hand to carry it, and the royal head-quarters were not far across the street from the casino, I carried two of the pails myself. Just when I was crossing the street, a carriage swept round the corner with His Maiesty the King in it. Though not ashamed of my work 1 felt rather embarrassed at being caught thus, and put the pails down behind me, screening them with my dress, when ol6 Ten Years of my Life. the King, who bad seen ipe, stopped the carriage and des- cended. He came towards me, grasped my hand, and said very kind words which I shall never forget. Smilingly look- ing around me to discover the cause of my embarrassment he saw my two pails, and when I told him that I had stolen them from his kitchen for his dying brave soldiers, the expression of his face became still kinder, and he said that I had done quite right, and that I was at liberty to rob his kitchen to my heart's content. On August 12 Dr. Busch and mvself drove to the convent of Neudorf, where thirty severely wounded men w^re nursed by the nuns, w^ho gave me a long list of things required. I sent them next day forty mattresses and a whole waggonful of provisions. When we went again to Neudorf Professor Eusch made some operations, in which he was assisted by some Wurtembergian medical students, who were however not sufficiently used to the horrors they saw around them ; for when one of them as- sisted the Professor in the resection of an elbow, his hand trembled so much that Dr. Busch put him impatiently aside, and requested me to assist him, which I did with a steady hand and to his satisfoction. Thus I was busy from the morning to the night and Miss Runkel assisted me faithfully. We went several times to Spichern, where we tound the French wounded lying on straw sacks placed on the ground in stal)les, which made us very angry with the doctors, who had been too lazy to send to Saarbrucken for bedsteads. Dr. Busch took care that thev were sent. To the many wounded were soon added a number of sol- diers suftering from a dangerous dysentery, of which many died in a few hours. This malady seems always to prevail in armies in the field, and we had it also in America. I had caught a very severe cold and had to remain two days in bed with a very painful swollen face, which made me very impatient as it prevented me from attending to my duty. 'J'hough there was plenty for me to do everywhere, the longing to go nearer to the front, in order to be nearer to Felix, be- came so strong that I made up my mind to go alone, if Profes- sor Busch should be retained much longer in Saarbrucken. I A Fearful Bream. 317 made inquiries about the trains going to Metz, where we heard that fighting was going on ; but the information I received was very unsatisfactory, as I was told it would require eight days to go to Nancy. On August iS, the day of the battle of Gravelottee — of which we then of course knew nothing — my feeling of dread became alarmingly oppressive, for I had had the most fearful dreams about battles, and felt almost sure that something had happened to my husband. Until the 20th, we heard in Saarbrucken only vague rumours, but when I went on that day with Dr. Busch to Saarlouis, where we had to wait at the station* several hours, many trains with wounded arrived from the battlefields near Metz. There I saw a wounded soldier from the Augusta regiment ; he belonged to the battalion of my husband, and totd me that they had been in the battle of the 1 3th and behaved extremely bravely, but he pretended not to know whether Felix was wounded. I however felt an in- discribable anguish, and when we late in the evening returned to Saarbrucken, and I went to bed, I saw in a half-awake vision, poor Felix dead at my side, with a fearfully still, pale face. Early in the morning on August 21, I called on j\Irs. von Berenhorst, who was in Saarbrucken to nurse her brother, Major von Nettlebeck. She had also a son in the troops be- fore Metz, of whom she heard that he was wounded, and she was going to the front with us, for at last we were ready to start. When I was about leaving my quarters Professor Busch came and told me that my poor husband was killed ! He was mor- tally wounded on the 18th and died after three hours. Poor little Prince Florentine was dead also. I shall not attempt to describe my feelings, for words would be insufficient. All I can say is that I wished to be dead also, for I felt utterly alone and forsaken, and life a burden. I had, however, to fulfil a sacred duty, a promise made long ago in America, and repeated solemnly when my husband left me. He wished that in case he should be killed I should bring his body to Anholt, and have it buried at the side of his father and mother. In Saarbrucken I found Lieutenant von Arnim, who was severely wounded, and also the colour-sergeant of Felix's bat- 818 Ten Years of my Life. talion ; from them and from others afterwards I heard the details of his glorious d^ath. -He could not die otherwise, and nothwithstanding my misery I felt proud of him. When the Prussian Guards attacked the strong position of the French at St. Privat, my husband at the head of his brave fusileers remained on horseback, a convenient target. A shot struck his horse, which became unmanageable and ran away towards the French. My husband succeed in getting off its back, and in joining his troops on foot, when a bullet broke his right arm. He would not leave the batdefield, but took his sword in his left hand. Thus he remained twenty minutes, when a second bullet pierced his breast, and a third struck his Ipor Poor Florentine had been killed already at the first volley by a shot in his head. He died on the spot. Count Walder- see was wounded about the same time as Felix by a shot in his body. He was carried back, but on hearing that my hus- band was lying wounded on the field, he gave orders to carry him to the rear. Volunteers were called out for that purpose. When they laid Salm down for a moment, a shot struck the man who volunteered first to carry him. My husband ordered them to remove the waterproof in which he was wrapped, and to cover with it the poor honest soldier. Salm's last moments were described to me in a letter, which I received from the reverend priest who attended him. I shall give this description : — 'Doncourt, August 21, 1870. 'On the iSth August, in the afternoon, the second division of the Guards, to which I have the honour to belong as Catholic division chap- lain, entered into the battle against the strongly fortified Saint Marie aux Chenes and Saint Privat la Montague. About seven o'clock, your hus- band, severely wounded, was brought to the Verbandplatz. A bullet had pierced his breast and gone out at his back, a second one had pierced his arm, and a spent bullet contused his leg. Insupportable pain made him groan. Taking hold of my hand, he requested me to administer to him the last comforts of our holy religion. The doctor had given him before a dose of opium. Then I administered to him absolution and the holy oint- ment ; he requested to be laid in a bed ; his servant stood weeping at his litter. In the village St. Ail, which was forsaken by its inhabitants, all doors were locked. They were opened with axes and crowbars. I found a bed, and we carried there the severely wounded man, who, in dyings still pressed to his heart the covering of his colours. He requested me not to leave him, and I readily promised it. We cut oiif from his body his uni- form, to be able to dress his wounds the better. He asked for chlorofcvm, Felix and Florentine Killed. . 319 but the doctor thought hh-nself obliged to refuse, and on my soothing words he suppressed his pain. He complained of burning thirst ; there was no water in the village. I gave him my field flask with red wine, which he emptied eagerly. To his faithful servant he handed his money and his watch, to transmit to your Highness. A doctor came. It was dark ; we had no candle. I searched all the dwellings, and at last got from a soldier a little end of a candle. The wound was examined, newly cooled. The opiate commenced to have effect, and he became somewhat calmer. He asked me how his nephew had died ; he had receivee a bullet in his head. Then he caught my hands, and entreated of me to write to your Highness, and to support him in the hour of death. Whilst he was sleeping I was again called off to the Verbandplatz, where the dying wanted my assistance. I returned as 'soon as possible ; he was a corpse. I gave his pocket-book to his servant, and directed his notice expressly to a paper contained in it, which was the acknowledgment of a banker, stating that the Prince had deposited with him about 9,000 thalers. A soldier brought the revolver of your hus band tome in the horse-statle, where I slept that night ; the souvenir of iVIaximilian of Mexico I gave, on the 19th, likewise to his servant, and al- io his sword (if I am not mistaken, without scabbard.) The sword of the young prince has been taken care of by the division. I also ordered the servant to draw off the rings from the corpse, and to deliver them to your Highness. I think there were three of them. He died as a Christian at peace with God, as a hero on the field of honour. The last question he isked me was about the state of the battle. When I told him that the inemy retreated slowly, his face brightened, and he thanked God. "I shall die, and am willing to die ; only procure me some cliloroform and :omfort my wife." These are the last words I heard from his paie .ips. *Parmet, 'Division-Chaplain vSecond Guard Division. My husband's faitliful servant wrote to me as follows : — 'When we, on the i8th, at four o'clock p.m., became engaged, the bul- .ets whistled about my head, so that we thought nobody would remain ilive. We had scarcely been under fire, when Prince Florentine fell, the second or third man, by a shot through his mouth, and was dead at onco .vithout pain. Half an hour later, my good comrade, our other servant Klein, was killed also on the spot. Immediately afterwards a bullet grazed my thigh, which did not do any harm, only hurt somewhat. And vvhen we had been about an hour and a quarter under fire, somebody called jut, ' His Highness is wounded.' I went at once with the horse I still had CO the spot ; there I cried aloud when I saw my good master so severely wounded. I gave my horse to some other man, who was slightly wounded, and assisted in carrying him, and urged the others on till we came out of die fire. When we were out of it we put him on a cart and brought him to the Verbandplatz, and then I ran to fetch the doctor, and whilst his wounds were being dressed I told the chaplain, v/ho administered to him the sacraments. Then we carried him to the village, and laid him on a bed, I nursed him as well as I could, and believed he would recover, for 320 Ten Years of viy Life. the doctor (I suppose, to comfort him) said the bullet had passed under the ribs and was not fatal ; but lie said in two hours, " I must die ;" and then I was alone with him, and helold me that he received the shot through his arm twenty minutes before that through his breast, but for that wound he would not leave his troops ; and the sword and torn coat I should give to his brother as a keepsake ; but I was not able to do so, as the things are kept here, and will be sent soon, as I was told. And several time he asked whether we had conquered ; and I could tell him still that ours were vic- torious. I was to greet the officers of our regiment, and many times his brother. This he has repeated to me several times ; and his wife and all relatives ; and several times he inquired after little Prince Florentine ; he could not speak much for pain. Then he said I should have a coffin made and a cross on it with his name, which I have done, but with great trouble, as there were no people in the village, but three soldiers have constructed one. Thus he died quietly shortly before eleven o'clock. I called to him the names Jesus, Marie, and Joseph, and have prayed for him. And then I remained with him until he was buried, when his Highness Prince Leo- pold was present also. . *JOS. KOESTER.' The servant, when questioned afterwards relative to the paper contained in the Prince's pocket-book, which had been read by the chaplain, wrote about it as follows : ' At the funeral of his Highness, which was attended by the Hereditary Prince Leopold, I trasmitted to the latter a portemonnaie and pocket- book, remarking that in the letter was contained a paper re- commended to me as being of great importance. The Prince received these objects, and gave me a gratification. Prince Lepold will certainly remember it, for he has looked into the paper, and has read it doubtlessly.' Prince Leopold does not remember anything about such a paper, and it has disap])eared altogether. The whole affair is a mystery to me, as I really do not know from whom poor Salm could have received a sum so considerable for our circumstances. The sacred duty I had to accomplish sustained me and pre- vented me giving way to my grief, blunting thus its too keen edge, for it required all my energy. The knights of St. John, the officers, and my brother-in-law Ptince Alfred, all tried to dissuade me from carrying out my purpose, assuring me that it would be impossible in the present moment, and suggested that I might at least wait some time, or still better until after the war. All of them remonstrated in vain ; I would have gone to the grave of my poor Felix, if I had had to walk on ioot all the way Going on a Sad Errand. 821 We started at midnight. Miss Runkel was with me, and also ]\Irs. vun Berenhorst, who did not know that her son was killed, believing him only to be wounded. At Forbach we went in an excellently well-arranged hospital train sent from Wurtemberg, and slept in beds, of which there were two hundred in the train for severely wounded, besides accommodation for fifty more slightly wounded. Prince Alfred, not having found me in Saarbrucken, arrived just before we started from Forbach, and as he did not succeed in detaining me, he resolved to accompany and assist me. We arrived on the 23rd in Remilly, which was crowded to excess with troops and with wounded, and we could not find any other shelter for the night than in a railroad car, in which not only cattle, but also sick soldiers, had been conveyed, and which was in a most horridly filthy state. We succeeded, how- ever, in procuring some mattresses, with which we covered the bottom of the waggon. In this abominable place Prince Alfred, Professor Busch, Dr. von Kuhlewetter, Mrs. von Berenhorst, Miss Runkel and myself, and the old valet-de- chambre of Alfred, passed the night ! The next night we remained in a little chateau, near Covny, belonging to a Madame de Wendel, and on the 25th we arrived in Ars-sur-Moselle, where I obtained a room in the house of the apothecary, and at once ordered zinc coffins to be made. The man who first had accepted the order, bribed by the price offered, became however afraid after reflection, and refused to attend to it, fearing that the French, if they returned, as was confidently expected, would hang him, because he had made coftins for Prussian officers. I was therefore obliged to use compulsion, to remain in '"is workshop and watch him whilst he unwillingly made the coffins for my dear Felix and Florentine, which was indeed a very melancholy task. Professor Busch was quartered in a very fine large house, situate in a beautiful garden in Jouy-aux-Arches, opposite Ars, on the other bank of the Moselle. We went there in the even- ing and succeeded in finding a room in the same house. When next day I went on foot to Ars with Prof. Busch, we met Col- onel von Berenhorst with his daughter-in-law, Avho had heard that she also was a widow, for poor young Berenhorst was not only wounded, but killed on the iSth, not lar from St. Privat, 322 Ten Years of my Life. the Saxon troops to which he belonged standing next to the Prussian Guards. • • In the evening of the 27th several members of our family- met in Joiiy, all being with the army before Metz. There was Prince Alfred, his sons Leopold and Florentine, the latter serving in a regiment of jaegers ; the Counts Alfred and Otto. Salm-Hoegstraeten, and Prince George Croy, a knight of Malta. On Sunday August 28, the zinc coffins were finished, and I started with them for St. Mary-aux-Chenes. It was a rainy, cold day, weather quite in accordance with my dismal errand. Finding an abode in a kind of shed built by the knights of St. John, and serving as their head-quarters there, I saw in an adjoining compartment a rather stout, middle-aged woman in a plain black-dress, busily employed with cooking. She was the generally respected Mrs. Simon, a Saxon, who has won in that war a well-merited fame by her practical good sense and energy, employed with great success for the benefit of the soldiers. Conquering all opposing difficulties, hovvever great, she suc- ceeded in being allowed to be always with the front of the army, accompanied by a well-trained body of nurses, provided with everything required for the wounded on the battlefield, where indeed help was most needed. The activity of ' Mother Simon,' as she was called by the grateful soldiers, who were all full of her praises, cannot be sufficiently appreciated. She furnished the most striking evidence that the leading knights of St. John * committed a great mistake in placing difficulties in the way of nurses and voluntary sanitary associations, who wished to go on the battle- fields and not to be bullied and treated contemptibly by snobs several miles behind the front. Great complaint was made everywhere about this mistake, which caused a great deal of suftering, which might have been prevented. Those soldiers who were wounded in a manner which permitted their trans- portation to the depots behind the front were tolerably well cared for, but those who were wounded too severely, and who had to remain on the battlefield, were sadly neglected. They had to lie in yards or filthy peasant houses on the bare floor, often even without straw, without any food, and not rarely even without water. It was therefore not to be wondered at if, of those who had undergone amputation on the battlefield such a A Painfal Sight ^ 823 frightful proportion died in the hospitals ; for having been with- out food or any stimulant, their little remaining strength, already taxed to the utmost by the amputation, became utterly ex- hausted by the cruel and rough transportation on common peasant cars, in which they lay often for many hours, huddled one upon the other like calves sent to the market. Many, I am sure owed their lives to ' Mother Simon's ' being on the spot. I hope the lesson taught by her will not be forgotten whenever another war shall occur. We soon found the grave in which the officers of the Augusta regiment had been buried together. On the top of them stood the rough deal coffin in which my poor Felix had been laid, together with Florentine ; it was only slightly covered with earth and a corner of it protruded. When the men had laid the coffin bare, I insisted on the removal of its lid, notwithstanding the remonstrances of my brother-in-law and others. I wished to look once more on the face of my dear, beloved husband, believing myself stronger than I was. When the men complied with my request, and I saw instead of the dear face only a black mass, my strength failed me and I fainted. I must not speak of these moments. Every feeling reader will understand them. I had the coffms with the two bodies placed in a waggon which followed the carriage of a knight of St. John, who kindly accompanied us on this sad journey. Thus we returned to Ars-sur-Moselle. There I had to remain a day longer to wait for wooden cases, which had to be made for the zinc cofiins, according to the sanitary regula- tions. Meanwhile an order from the head-quarters of the king had arrived, placing at my disposition an extra train, and on it I started for Anholt, accompanied by Mrs. von Berenhorst and Miss Runkel, my brother-in-law remaining behind, as he wanted to be near his two sons, in case anything should happen to them. The night of the 30th we passed in a little hotel in Lune- ville, the following in the train, arrived on September i in Mayence, and on the 2nd in Anholt, where the two bodies were placed first in the little chapel. On September 3, the obsequies took place, with all the funeral pomp becoming the family. The two coffins were o2-t ^ Ten Years of my Life. cnrried to the church, which was draped in black, and high iiiass was celebrated. Minna," the mother of Florentine, had arrived. All the daughters of my brother-in-law were present, and also Prince Alfred, junior, who having left recently the Austrian service could not take part in the war and remained at home with his wife, Princess Rosa. Let me pass over de- tails. It is too painful for me to dwell long on this sad period. When all was over, and poor Felix placed near his father and mother, together with Florentine, in the family vault, it was as if a great load had been taken off my mind. I had faithfully fulfilled my duty and kept my vow. I felt that my dear husband's soul was at rest now, and peace came over mine also. But I felt that I must not trust it ; that it was dangerous to ponder over my woes. Had I, as my brother- in-law desired me to do, remained in Anholt until the end of the war, I should have gone mad. I knew that I must forcibly tear myself away, and battle against the inclination of nursing my grief, and that I could only conquer it by help of great activity. Therefore, I had resolved to return to the army immediately, and attend still more assiduously than before to my duty. The last token of love I received from my dear husband was a postal card, written immediately before the battle of Gravelotte. Here it is : — * In one hour we begin the great battle. With God we will be re- united ; but if I should be killed, darling, beloved Agnes, I beg your pardon for every trouble I ever have made you, and that I always have loved you, and that I take this only love with me in my grave. My brother will take care of you. Keep me in your kind remembrance. From all my soul, ^ * Your true and loving husband, * Felix. * (Kiss little Jimmy). ' In the field, near Mctz, the i8th of August, 1870. ' Dear, God bless you. Thanks for your love and everything you have dune for me.' h^o CHAPTER XXI. Returning to the war — In Cologne — The Knights of St, jOiin— i>ai-on Edward Oppenheim — In Jouy-aux-Arches — Voluntary nurses — Re- forms— Gifts from Cologne — My store -rooms — Prince Alfred — Miss Runkel — Shells — Surrender Metz — Theft — Bad conscience — A rude doctor — A princely box on the ear. Prince Alfred, my poor husband's elder brother, was, as I said before, a knight of Malta. The especial duty allotted to him had been to accompany the sisters of mercy and vokmtary nurses to the different places were their services were required. On my resolution to return to the field he made himself free from that duty, in order to be near me and take me under his protection. Having had until then no occasion for his horses he had left them at home, but now he wanted me to bring some with me. I went next to Cologne, where I procured the necessary tickets of legitimation and permits for the free conveyance of my carriage, horses, and whole party. Having attended to this, I left Anholt with a carriage, two fine coach-horses and my brother-in-law's English favourite mare, Miss Runkel, Mr. Frank, Prince Alfred's English coachman, and my orderly, August. The latter was a soldier detailed to my service in Saarbruck, who remained with me during the whole campaign. He was by trade a tailor, from Koenigsberg in Prussia, and as he was not very strong the army could spare him. I remained two days in Cologne, where I visited the hospi- tals, which were under the excellent direction of privy coun- cillor Dr. Fisher, and admired greatly all the sanitary and other arrangements superintended by the Oberpresident von Ber- nuth, who was the chairman of the central committee in Co- S2{} Ten Years of my Life. logne. Everything there was perfect. The immense stores were well filled, and supplies arrived regularly. Applications made from different parts were carefully and liberally attended to and answered with a promptitude which was especially praiseworthy and beneficial. Men, mostly selected from the nivT-rcantile members of the associations, accompanied such convoys — people who had business habits and who understood how to distribute the things with order and in a judicious man- ner, and compared with whom the knights of Malta and St. John were at a great disadvantage. • These knights have been much abused and ridiculed, and, though it cannot be denied that they offered many weak poiiits and furnished ample material for ridicule and censure, it is only just to consider what can be said in their defence. I'hey were all noblemen, and mostly wealthy ; owners of great estates ; princes, counts, and barons with a long pedi- gree, living mostly in their castles. Leaving the management of their estates and households and the care of their broad acres almost always to their stewards, they lived an easy life, were used to command as masters, — in a word, were aristocrats to the core. It is true all of them had been soldiers, but it was mostly long ago, and if they retained any habits of their soldier life they were not those of a private or corporal or poor plodding subaltern ofiicer, who had to turn every thaler six times in his hands before he spent it. The war of 1866 was so very short that not much experience could be ac- quired in it by such knights as attended it. Now they were called to fulfil the traditional duties of their order, of which perhaps only very few, if any, had a definite idea. To expect such services of them as were required centuries ago from members of their order was out of the question. They were now great lords, and Christian humility is not the first among their virtues. If they condescended to accept an oftice it could be only one becoming their social position. Many say that it was a mistake to place them as they were placed, assert- ing that they did more harm than good ; an opinion held espe- cially by the medical gentlemen, who perfectly understood their business, and knew exactly what was required for wounded and sick, having acquired ample experience in attending all the year round in hospitals, which was of course by no means the case with these knights. Knights of St John. S27 There were amongst them many who earnestly wished to do good service, and even some who made themselves extremely useful, descending from their stilts and using their hands and feet like other men ; but, alas, with most of them the will was better than the capacity, and the more they did the more harm and confusion resulted from it. Most of the stores and magazines were placed under the care of some knight of these orders. An immense quantity and variety of things were sent in, and it was expected that they should be distributed judiciously. To arrange and keep in order such stores, and receive goods and send them off, required a certain business routme and exertions which were utterly out of the depth of most of these noblemen, and any clerk of a mercantile house would have beaten them in this. Many were satisfied with having their stores always well filled, not daring to distribute anything b^^ore fresh supplies had arrived to keep them so, not caring whether here or there something was urgently required. Used to patronize, they often distributed the stores more according to favour than to necessity ; and complaints about partiality and injudicious division were very frequent, creating great dissatisfaction amongst the many associations, who at last found it more to the purpose to send practical men with their convoys of goods, who judged for themselves where help was required, instead of delivering their things into the depots of the knights, and leaving the distribution to them. The ladies I found employed in Cologne in the different hospitals and establishments for the support of the soldiers in the field, vied successiully with the male members of the associa*-on. Everywhere they kept the most perfect order, and, being good housekeepers, they applied their domestic rules to their establishments. AM I saw busily employed there wore the same simple dress, which did a great deal to remove the uneasy feeling produced by mixing with persons belonging to a different social sphere. Baron and Baroness Oppenheim and other ladies belonging to the committee gave me an immense quantity of things which I knew were most required in the hospitals before Metz, and I left Cologne with three railroad cars, one loaded with the car- riage and forage, the second with the horses, and Mr. Frank and August, and the third containing Miss Runkel and mvself 828 Ten Years of my Life. and all the welcome gifts from the central committee ot Cologne. "• I was lucky enough not to be detained anywhere long, and we arrived after eight days at Jouy, for all the stations were extremely crowded and the rails stopped by trains with wounded or provisions for the army. Those who before never learnt patience did so in travelling that time to the army. Requiring, first, quarters for men and horses, which care my brother-in-law kindly left over to me as I had brought them along, I called the morning after my arrival on the privy councillor, Sulzer, who stood at the head of the commissariat or quartermaster's staff. He was an extremely able and prac- tical man, whose services have been highly acknowledged by the Government. He very readily answered to my request ; I was billeted with Miss Runkel, Mr. Frank, and August and four horses, in the large house where Dr. Busch was quartered ; and my brother-in-law was lodged there also, as well as dear Jimmy, whom I had taken with me. The poor dog had so pined for me and his master that he had become quite lean and nearly blind. When he was again with me he recovered soon, and the film covering his eyes disappeared also. I urged on Dr. Busch the necessity for work, and asked him what there was to do and what was wanted. ' We have here 'five hospitals,' he said, 'crowded v/ith men severely wounded, and everything is wanting.' The poor wounded had no properly cooked food, and it was my first care to establish kitchens for them. The difficulty was to find proper female assistance, for though there were plenty of voluntary nurses, they were for the greater part mere voluntary nuisances, with their crinolines, plumed bonnets, and mincing manners. They were, I might say, female knights of St. John, for what I have said of these was still more applicable to most of those female ScJilachten biuiwiler^ who never forgot that they ' volunteered ' a duty, and despised rules and orders ; and above all discipline and punctuality. Instead of arriving at seven o'clock in the morning, they came at ten or eleven, or remained away, just as they pleased, making earnest doctors wish that they had remained at home altogether, though ethers flirted with and protected them. These fine ladies, amongst whom were some with a 'von' Baron Edward Oppenheirn. 829 before their names, were quite indignant if I expected them to assist in the kitchen, to cook, or to perform other duties, by which they thought themselves degraded. They were always quarrelling amongst themselves, and the hospitals in which they attended were far different from that one in which four sisters from Coblentz were nurses. I told Professor Busch that I wanted regular sisters of mercy, instead of voluntary nurses, and it was resolved to pro- cure them. I therefore applied 'to Count Hompesch, a knight of Malta, who was stationed in Covny, and most readily com- plied with my request. Sisters from the order of St. Vincenz de Paul arrived soon, to replace the voluntary nuisances, and things improved in a Vv'onderful manner. These sisters did not llirt and look out for husbands, for they had done with the world ; they were not ashamed to do menial services, and did not quarrel amongst themselves. Quietly and obediently they did what was required of them by their superiors, and even those doctors who were inclined to take the part of the volun- tary nurses had to admit that they themselves and the wounded profited greatly by the change. Now I arranged that in each of the hospitals a kitchen was established, and also a store-room, from which the patients' wants could be satisfied at once, whilst formerly the nurses had always to apply to some Johanniter, which caused delays and other disagreeable things. Not long after my return from Jouy and Ars snr-Moselle, Baron Edward Oppenheirn arrived froni Cologne, with a great omnibus filled with many things, which I had told him were especially wanted. He showed himself very zealous, visited all the hospitals, even the typhus hospital, and convinced him- self of the shortcomings and wants, and the manner in whicli the voluntary gifts of the people were used and distributed. The youngest brother of the baron was a lieutenant on the staff of General von Kummer, whose troops were stationed very near Metz, and Baron Edward, curious to see everything, went round with him, exposing himself more than was prudent. The things which he brought with him were not taken from the stores of the committee in Cologne, but bought by him and paid for out of his own pocket. As he was better pleased with my manner of distribution than with that of the knights of St. John, he confided them all to me, and they were the first SoO Ten Years of ray Life. foundation of the magazine I established, for tlie example set by Baron Oppenheim found many imitators. Deputies from Elberfeld, Barmen, Hamburg, Bremen, Crefeld, and other places, arrived with an abundance of supplies. There was an immense number of bottles of fine wines, barrels of spirits, bales of tobacco, cigars, woollen and linen clothes of every kind, &c. The knights of St. John became rather jealous and annoyed when these gentlemen arrived with the special order to deliver their gifts into the hands of the Princess Salm, and under no circumstances into those of the knights, who had made them- selves rather unpopular by the supercilious manner in which they often treated the brave men who volunteered to bring these supplies to the army, which was by no means an easy or a pleasant task. My stores were therefore replete with every kind of good thing, whilst the depots of the knights remamed distressingly empty. Many of them reproached me with ac- cepting those provisions instead of letting them be sent to their depots, which had been established to receive them, but as many of the delegates declared that they would rather take their supplies back if I refused them, I should have acted very fooHshly in doing so. Some of the knighrs condescended to request me tq lend them part of my abundance, as they were ashamed .of the emptiness of their store rooms, and 1 did so ; but not one of them demeaned himself so much as to remem- ber such debts. It was natural that sometimes the donors of voluntary gifts desired that they .-^ould chiefly benefit the soldiers from their city or district, and so it happened that those whose homes were near the Rhine were well supplied, whilst the soldiers from Pomerania, East and West Prussia, or Silesia, were neglected in this respect on account of the great distance. I therefore took care to make up for this disadvantage whenever I had goods at my disposition for general use. How well supplied my stores were, may be judged from the fact that I twice supplied a whole brigade of the second army corps, — General von Fransecky's Pomeranians, — with tobacco, cigars, and spirits. Indeed the German people took good care of their army ; but as their gifts were voluntary they were supposed to have a right to inquire into the manner in which they were applied, which offended the pride of the knights of St. John, who were General von Steinmetz. 831 not always willing to acknowledge the merit of those who gave especially if they were rich men. ' It is their duty to give, for the soldiers protect their strong boxes,' they said. If these rich men happened to be Jews they earned still less thanks, for these Christian noblemen hated Jews, though they nevei had been too proud to borrow money from tiiem, or to drink their good claret and champagne. Though I attended now and then in the hospitals and at operations, I made it my principal business to organize and to procure provisions. The success I had in it was soon noticed, by which my influence and power to do good was increased. I was well supported by Prince Alfred, though he applied him- self chiefly to attending and nursing the wounded and sick, selecting for this purpose the dangerous typhus hospital. I must not forget to mention Miss Runkel either, who justified greatly the recommendation from Princess Wied. She sup- ported me most willingly and ably, and was very useful in the hospitals, where she worked together with the good nuns, though this was somewhat against the regulation. Her good nature and good humour made her everywhere a favourite. Dr. Busch complained that the wounded in the hospitals had no bedsteads, but were lying on mattresses placed on the floor, which made it extremely tiring and difficult for the doctors to dress the wounds, and increased also the sufferings of the wounded. As he was only Surgeon-General of the 8th, the Rhenish army corps, he was not the highest medical authority, but over him stood the officer attached to the staff of the whole First Army He consequently had not the power to do all he wanted. I therefore was induced to interfere, and try my influence with General von Steinmetz. I called on him, drew his notice to this great mconvenience, and suggested means to alter it. I proposed to him to send me with proper authority to Nancy, where I would soon procure bedsteads, or to order that every house in Ars should supply one, or that boards should be supplied and bedsteads made. The general was rather indignant, and after having expressed his displea- sure with the neglect, he ordered at once measures by which it was corrected. I had no cau-se to complain that my services v/ere not acknowledged, and I was grea'.y gratified by the manner in which it was done. General von Fransecky gave a dinner to 332 Ten I'ears of 'my Life. me vvhich I could not refuse, though I was in deep mourning, and not in a irame ol mind tp attend festivals. Exceptional circumstances, however, justify exceptions, and make them even necessary. I accepted an invitation to another dinner which was given in the head-quarters of the First Army, which I attended in company with my brother-in-law. My activity was not only restricted to Jouy and Ars, I went now and then to Mane-aux-Chenes, and other places around Metz, to distribute supplies, where they were wanted in the difterent hospitals. Fighting was meanwhile going on around Metz continually, ana we were by no means secure in Ars, which for that purpose was much too close to Fort St. Quentin. One of the hospitals was right in the line of the shots, but as it lay rather deep all shots passed over it. The wounded in the beds, weak and nervous Irom sickness, were frightened and excited by the noise oi the shells to such an extent that it caused the death ot some oi them. Several shells struck buildings belonging to the railroad station and one carried away the funnel of a locomotive. ^Vhen I was one day in the garden of the house in which Were my stores, and an aide-de-camp of General von Fran- secky with me, taking supp.'ies, a shell struck ten paces from us, but fell fortunately in a ditch. My tailoring ^oldier August dived at once into the house, and was much ashamed when I called him from his hiding-place. But when a short time afterwards another shell tell again in the neighbourhood, we all thought it prudent to retreat until the shower was over. At last Metz surrendered, and though the weather was very bad and we all were wet to the skin, I saw the French march out. It was a glorious but also a sad sighi. I shall not describe it, as it has been done frequently, but only mention the general belief in our army that Bazaine was by no means forced to surrender, but that he sold Metz and acted as a tiaitor to his country. As Princess Croy had v;ritten to request me to make inqui- ries about some French officers, her relatives, who had been in Metz, after having informed General von Fransecky about it, I drove on October 30, with Dr. Busch and Dr. von Kiihle- wetter to that city. With great trouble I found one of the officers. Count Man. who told me that the two others were Theft of Chassepots. 333 safe and well. He gave me telegrams for his wife and family, which I sent by post to Princess Croy. When returning to Jouy and passing the gate of Metz I saw there a whole heap of chassepots, thrown awiy by the French, and two Prussian soldiers standing as guard near them. Now everybody wanted to have a chassepot at that time, and I also. I therefore stopped the cariage and requested the sentinels, who knev/ me, in my bad German, to turn their backs, because I wanted to •: A a -hassepot. The manner in which I expressed myself must have been very funny, for they laughed like mad and turned round, whilst Frank, the coachman, took two chassepots and put them in the carriage. When next evening we were sittmg at supper, an orderly with a gun in his hand entered the room, addressing himself to me. I was quite frightened, for I thought my theft had been discovered, and t^he soldier had come to arrest me. But nO; General von Fransecky, remembering my wish to have a chassepot, and not knowmg that I had helped myself already, sent his compliments, togeJier with ihe desired object, which 1 gave to Alfred. The surrender of Metz of course made a g^eat change in our arrangements. The hospitals were evacuated as soc.-^. as pos- sible, and I di'tributed my clothes amongst the soldiers who were going home. Poor good fellows, when they said good- bye to me, they had tears in ' aJir eyes, and expressed their thanks for what I had done for them in simple, heartlelt words. Whilst in Jouy 1 received letters of condolence from Her Majesty the Queen, the Grand Duchess of Baden, Princess William of Baden, and many other kind per on;=ges. I of course answered that of Her Majesty at once, but most of the others I could not answer then for want of time or other causes. I drove with my brother-in-law on November i to Metz to see Count Man, the relative of Princess Croy, and found that he had already left with .his general. When we were lunching in the hotel in Metz I had a little adventure which I shall mention, because it was the only instance of my ever having been annoyed by rudeness during the wliole war. Though I had to mix everywhere with soldiers and other persons in the camps and in the hospitals, I never had to complain of any- one ; I was always treated with respect. 834 Ten Years of my Life. Prince Alfred and I were, sitting in a room, separated ^rom the general dining-room by a%4ass door. In the latter were many officers assembled, of whom several knew me, and amongst ihem was a general. When the Prince went away lor a few minutes and I was alone in the room, a doctor from the 8th army corps approached the door, and looking through the glass, made signs and faces at me. I looked away and tried not to take any notice, for the doctor seemed to be somewhat under the influence ot wine. At last he entered and addressed me. I mswered him indig- nantly, and told him ihat he was mistaken — I was not, as he supposed, a Frenchwoman. On this my brothei-in-law came, and the importunate doctor re-entered the g jneral room ; but seeing that something had c^nnoyed me the Prince inquired, and I told him. He became very angry, at once followed the doctor 'and addressed him before all the officers, asking whether he knew who the lady was to whom he had spoken, and being answered in an insolent manner by the doctor that he did not care a straw, the Prince gave him a box on his ear ; and on hearing the case the general and officers said that he had rightly deserved it. The thing had no consequences, for the doctor had to pocket the blow and to apologize into the bargain. ^ boH CHAPTER XXII. Marcliing orders — Death of Count Waldersee — On the march — Lost ( the road — Brabant — In search of quarters — In a shepherd's house- How we passed the night — A wonderful snoratorio — Vienne 1> Chateau — An ecclesiastical cat — In Rheims — Vilie aux Bois Jouchery — A Frenchified German — Madame la Baronne de Sachs. Attichy — A ' particulier ' — Compicgne — The rooms of Empress Eugenie — Monti- dier — The 'terrible' things — Battle of Moreuil — Fog — Strange mi^ take — Miss Runkel taken for a ' Protzkasten ' — ^Jimmy — My pigeon — After the battle — General von Kummer — Amiens — In Boves — Colonel Cox — The international commission — Starting for Rouen — La Feuilie — A sacked chateau — In Rouen — Dangerous looking people — Visit to General von Manteufifel — Leaving Rouen — Le Heron — Order to pre- pare lor battle — The battle of Querriere — Our Verbandplatz — The room for the fatallv wounded — Short of provisions — Fed by the English — My assistance —Under fire — Dangerous curiosity — Rev. M.. Gross wounded — End of the battle — Supper on the amputation table — Returning to Amiens — A busy night — Miss Runkel's Samaritan work — My birthday — Count Luttichau and Captain Voelkel-^Tele- graphing for their wives — Captain Voekel's death — Arrival of his wife — General von Blankensee — His wife— His death — In Albert — Captain von Marien — Bapaunie- -General Count von der Goeben — A distracted cook — The wounded — Captain von Butler— Dead — Hospi- tal in the convent — I discover an old acquaintance — And make the acquaintance ot the black small-pox — Returning ''.o Amiens — Arrival of officers' wives — I lall ill with the small-pox— Marching orders — Four days in bed only — In Peronne — General von Memerty — My prophetic talents — Three hundred wounded and nothing to eat — Again our English friends — Prince Alfred's exertions — Miss Runkel's exhaustion — Jimmy catching a Tartar — The glorious battle of St. Quentin — Shoes and stockings left in the mud — In St. Quentin — The Hotel Cambronne — Adoctorless pnvate hospital — Miss Runkel's glory — My five hundred boarders — Howl managed for them — Aimistice — Going home — Acknowledgments — General von Manteufiel proposing me for the iron cross — Thanks in the name of the 1st army by letter of General von Goeben — Letter of General von Fransecky. On November 3 we received marching orders, that is, the notice »o 6 Ten Years of any Life. to make ready. On the 4th we saw in Metz the 8th army corps pass, and spoke to many of our friends from Coblentz, namely General v. S , who told me of the death of Count "Waldersee, who was wounded at St. Privat, and killed before Paris a few days before he had returned again to his command. One or two days before our departure gentlemen from the city of Crefeld arrived with supplies, which they handed over to me, and I resolved to take my provisions with me and to use them in time of need. Privy Councillor Sulzer allowed me nine v/aggons and eighteen horses for them, and when we left Jouy on the 7th we formed quite a respectable caravan. We passed our first night at Jarny and the following at Etain. The weather had become fine, and after the busy and yet monotonous time before Metz the change of scene was agreeable and refreshing to all of us. On leaving Etain next morning we found the road much crowded with waggons and troops, and we could progress only very slowly. Prince Alfred, who was on horseback, suggested a b3^-road, but we lost ourselves, and it was dark when we arrived at head-quarters, where we ought to have been at two o'clock. There we received the rather distressing mtelligence that our party had been detached to another village, Brabant, some distance off, which we did not reach before eight o'clock p.m. In that village existed only one respectable house, the chateau, where we were billeted ; but on arriving we found our quarters occupied by General von Kummer and his staff, who had believed that we had remained with tlie head-quarters, stavinsf out beyond any reasonable time. As we of course could not insist on our right and disposses the general, we looked out for other quarters. When we nearly despaired of finding any and thought of passing tne_night in cur carriages, we discovered at last the dwelling of a shepherd who lived with his vvife in two extremely dirty rooms on the ground floor, with which we were compelled to be satis, f^d, envying almost our horses which had found excellent srabi.ng in the shed where once the sheep had been, transforir.ed long ago by the natural process of eating into the substance of'two- legged lions, commonly called there ' ks sacres Prussiens.^ The front room in which stood a small cooking stove, looked so disuial and uninhabitable that we all crowded into the back room, which was adorned with an immense four-post bed filling up one corner. In a ShephercVs House. 837 The shepherd and his wife were quite bewildered, but I at once won the good graces of the latter by presenting her with a few bottles of wine, a ham and some other eatables. When I expressed a wish to have the stove in the back room, she, to our surprise, lifted it, heated as it was, and carried it in. After Miss Runkel had superficially cleaned our abo^e, she made some good coffee, whilst I cooked some ham and eggs for supper, and Prince Alfred brewed a hot whiskey punch. Rather enjoying our strange situation, we sat on benches around the table, eating and drinking with a very good appetite. Then the momentous question turned up how we should pass the night, and it was resolved that we should all remain in the warm room, the gentlemen on straw on the floor, and Miss Runkel and myself with Jimmy in the four-poster. ".4 /a guerre cornme a la guen-e J " The litter was soon made ; three gendemen. Prince Alfred, Prof. Busch, and Dr. von Kiihle- wetter, lay down on it, while I and Miss Runkel escaladed the high four-poster. In an adjoining compartment the shepherd had from the stable a goat and a lamb, which seemed much dis- tressed with their change of quarters, for the lamb was bleating all night most pitifully, and its mother hushed it now and then with a comforting quaver, which displeased Jimmy who growled and snarled. Such trifles did not matter, however ; the three gentlemen evinced already some signs of sleep when the shepherdess hurriedly came in to correct a great neglect, that is, to bring me and Miss Runkel two of her nightcaps ; for to sleep with- out a nigfitcap seems a perposterous idea to a Frenchwoman. The good creature was quite stupified by the uproarious laugh- ter produced by her thoughtful kindness. When the effects of this intermezzo had died away all set- tled again for sleep. Prince Alfred soon tuned a hymn in hon- our of Morpheus in a fine baritone snore ; and Dr. von Kiihle- wetter accompanied him in a sentimental juvenile treble; whilst Professor Busch snored an equally cadenced deep bass, speaking of a peaceful, evenly balanced mind, and becoming the dignity of his position. It was a wonderful snoratorio rather improved by the bleating of the lamb, the quavering of the goat, and the growling of jimmy. u 338 Ten Years of my Life. Miss Runkel and I tried to follow the example thus given, and we thought we should siicceed, when a surprised ' Oh !' of Miss Runkel showed that she was still awake. I need not to ask the cause of her ejaculation, for I felt it at the same mo- ment, and Jimmy's impatient movements, which shook the four-poster, revealed to us undoubtedly the alarming truth that we were in the camp of a blood-thirsty, hostile army. Whether the French fleas were conscious that we were Prussians I do not know, but the most ferocious franctireurs could not have treated us more cruelly. Well, even a night like that has an end, and thinking how the poor wounded had to suffer for their country, we meekly submitted to our fate ; though we were glad when morning dawned. It was, however, a very bad morning, the rain pour- ing down in sheets. ' We passed the night of the loth in Varennes, and the fol- lowing in Vienne le Chateau, where we arrived early in the house of a pastor, who gave us good rooms and a good dinner. We had a roast ; the meat tasted somewhat like chicken, and we guessed that it might be a French rabbit, but we were rather astonished to hear that it had been a French cat ! It was the first I ever ate, and I trust it was the last, — though it was rather good. After all, such a deceit from a clergyman grieved me. Passing through Suippe, where we had very good quarters in a fine villa, and were treated extremely well, we arrived on November 1 1 in Rheims. We remained in that old city until the 17th, and had ample time to admire the fine cathedral, the triumphal arch, &c., and to discover that we had at home much better champagne than they sold at a rather high price in this home of that wine. On November 17 we arrived in Ville aux Bois Jouchery, where we were quartered in a pretentious chateau, situated in a very tastefully laid-out and well kept park, belonging to Monsieur le Baron de Sachs. A gorgeously liveried footman opened the door of a saloon, announcing with great emphasis, * Madame la Princesse !' On entering we saw a fat old lady, Madame la Baronne de Sachs; dressed up like an English fri- gate on the birthday of the Queen, each of her fat fingers covered up to the third joint with sparkling rings, who looked rather perplexed when she saw two insignificant persons, in A ' ParticullerJ 339 black woollen dresses without any flounces, and a white band" with a red cross on their arms, enter, whom she probably took for two chambermaids pr-epahng her for the arrival of Her Highness. I am sure the pleasure of these pompous people was much spoilt by our simplicity, and on seeing my brother-in-law Alired in his shooting jacket their thoughts about German princes were not improved. We had an excellent lunch, but being quite disgusted with the Frenchified behaviour and speeches ot these German renegades, I found pleasure in dis- appointing them by not appearing at dinner, pleading sickness and remaining in my bed. The i8th of November we stayed in Braisne, and reached on the 19th Soissons, where we arrived at twelve o'clock, and were quartered in the house of a real French baron, de Sahume. The fine manners of the baroness, and the style of his hospi- tality, formed a striking contrast with that of the Baroness Sachs. Soissons showed still many tokens of the recent siege. One of its suburbs was entirely in ruins, having been destroyed by the French themselves. Sunday, the 20th, we arrived in Attichy. We were quartered in a house belonging to a tradesman, who, after having made some little money, settled as a * particiilier.' The French are a very sensible people in this respect ; they do not live to work ; they work to live. Their great ambition and desire is to earn enough to live independently of being obliged to work. As long as they are in business they are very industrious ; they work day and night until they have made money enough to retire and to become ' particuliers.* As the habits and taste of the middle and lower classes in France are very simple and economical, it is not very difticult for steady people amongst them to save the few thousand francs which are required to live such a simple and frugal li^e as makes them contented and happy. Our landlord was so much affected by the honour done to his house by having a Prince and Princess as guests, that he trembled all over and shed tears when I looked at him or ad- dressed him. We had very good and comfortable rooms, and the proprietor and his wife waited in person upon us, for they did not keep a servant. 840 Ten Years of my Life. At six o'clock we dined. We were six at table : the ' par- ticulier/ tlie ' particiiliere,' and her aged father, my brother-in- law, Miss Runkel and myself. The dinner, a soup with the meat in it, was placed on t4ie bare table. The ' particiiliere * cut the bread and gave it to each in her hand, and with a smiling face. Our simple repast was ihuminated by a solitary tallow candle, which was snuffed every few minutes by the same fingers which gave us the bread. I, liked this dinner bet- ter than many very fine ones I had in France, in chateaux whose proprietors were base enough to fein German sympa- thies, whilst this poor honest man and patriot bravely said that he would rather die than see Prussia take one square foot of land. Passing next morning in fine weather through magnificent woods, we arrived early in Compiegne, where we were splendidly quartered in the villa of a M. Sauvage, who was fortunately absent in Paris, eating, probably, horse steaks and roast rats, whilst we were sitting at his sumptuously provided dinner- table, drinking Prussian healths in excellent French cham- pagne. We remained in Compiegne four days, and visited, of course, the palace, and the once splendid, but now somewhat spoilt, rooms of the Empress Eugdnie, wondering at their luxurious arrangements. On the 25th we left Compiegne with the staff of General von Goeben, and overtook on the road General von Manteuffel and staff, with whom we entered Montidier. We had very fine rooms in the house of a gentleman, who was much affected in showing us from the window a place where five 'terrible^ Prussian guns had been placed, which had fired five ' terrible ^ shots, which offered a most ' terrible ' sight, and after which ' terrible ' event the place surrendered. Saturday, the 26th, we remained in Plessier-Rozainvillers. Next morning, Sunday, the 27th November, we marched early towards Moreuil. The weather was foggy, and soon became so dark that we could not see many paces around us. When we came to a turn in the roL^d leading to our allotted quarters, which were in a little place somewhere between Moreuil and Amiens, we heard suddenly the rolling of musketry not far from us. Aides-de-camp were running about frantic, their horses looking in the fog like dromedaries. The whole column In a Battle, 341 halted. All waggons and carriages were ordered to the rear, I would not part with mine, and I had my will as usual ; the aides-de-camp having no time to persuade me. The' French had taken advantage of the fog, and attacked us. At last I had my wish, I was in a battle ; but, alas, I did not see it ; I only heard the din of battle and the strange noise of the shells, and the malicious sharp sound of the chassepot bullets. Our triend from the staff, Major von Strantz, arrived in hot haste. ' Princess,' he cried, 'away, away, in the name of God, or you are lost !* I could not see it, and did not go ; but we were ordered to a near place behind a cluster of bushes in a dell, where we might be considered comparatively secure, but where we saw less than nothing. My brother-in-law's blood was up, however. He wanted to' see the battle, and cantered off to- wards the front, allured and guided by the roll of musketry. If he was killed or wounded they at home would have charged me with his misfortune, I knew, and as his idle curiosity in that fog was foolish I sent an orderly after him to beg him to return ; but he pshawed and got indignant at the presumption of restricting his liberty of making a target of himself, and went on. Meanwhile, poor Jimmy was a picture of despair. That he did not die of fright was a wonder ; he drew in his tail as close as possible, and took shelter between my feet. My pet pigeon began fluttering in its basket, and I took i': out on my fingers ; but on hearing all the strange noises ir flapped its wings and looked alarmed ; I therefore put it again in its travelling place. I ha^e not yet said a word about my pigeon, which was a new- pet of mine, called by some a new nuisance, on account of its harpying habits I got it in a manner which is worth relating. An officer from Dresden, Lieutenant von Lavilre, had been dangerously wounded, and his arm had been amputated. Miss Runkel and myself nursed the poor boy, and she wrote letters home for him, etc. He was very much affected by our manner of treating him, and he expressed to Miss Runkel his wish to show me in some manner his gratitude. His landlord had presented him with a young pigeoH ; he had nothing else, and sent it to me — for breakfast. Had it been dead I would have eaten this sacrifice in a goddess-like manner ; but as it was sent alive I could not kill it, though at that time 1 might f> i2 Ten Years of my Life. have found it in my heart to kill a Frenchman. I resolved to keep it, and Professor Busch taught me how to feed it with soaked peas, which I took iq my mouth. Alfred, who had an uneasy foreboding, urged the Professor to stuff the little nuisance to death ; but the good Professor did not, neither did I, and the Prince fed it himself out of his own mouth. It was an intelligent thing. Every morning it came on my bed, and if I were still asleep it gently pecked my eyelids or face to awaken me. But to return to the battle. Professor Busch, the other doctors, and myself, tried hard to be permitted to go to the Verbandplatz, but we were told that we could not, as we would have to pass through a cross-fire. Moreover, we were ordered to keep as quiet as possible, and to comply promptly with the directions given, to move so many paces to the right or left, or forward or backward, as was required by the movements of the troop^. Standing near the bushes in the dale we saw the staff of General von Manteuffel, at a distance before us, on an emi- nence. Looking round towards us, and seeing through the fog only indistinctly my carriage and our mounted servants, he believed us to belong to the reserve artillery lor which he had sent, and the officers jokingly said that he had mistaken Miss Runkel, who had remained on her seat in the carriage, for the Protzkasten (caisson). The battle lasted from eleven o'clock a.m. until six o'clock p.m., and we all felt exceedingly hungry, for since our cofi'ee at six in the morning we had eaten nothmg. As our march of that day was so very short we had not taken anything to eat with us. By great favour we got at last some black bread and a slice of raw bacon, and I feasted on it with delight. At last the fight was over; I am afraid we, had to make a retrograde movement, but I had my quarters at Moreuil in a cap store, called au bon diable. After a battle, we were of course always very busy. At eight o'clock next morning I went to the hospital established in the school-house, where I found some old nuns, who assisted me in dressing the wounds of an officer and ten private soldiers, after which I drove with Alfred, Professor Busch, and Dr. von Kiihlewetter, to see another hospital in Sains, where we found many wounded from the battle, and others who had tovo-n'ender of Amiens. o4;3 had nothing to eat since yesterday morning. I therefore went to General von Kummer, who gave me at once an order for meat, meat extr-ict, and other things required ; but to provide for the moment I, with the permission of the kind-hearted general, robbed his own kitchen. He said his staff might live on half-rations for a day, and I answered it would serve him and them right, and that I was glad they had to do pennance for having robbed me, two days ago, of my quarters, exposing n^e to attacks of a whole army-corps of ferocious little French brown hussars. On November 29, after having attended to the w^ounded in Moreuil, I went to Amiens, of which the citadel was not yet in our hands ; it surrendered, however, the next day, after its brave commander had found the death desired by him, in mounting on the crest of the wall, making thus of himself a target for our sharp-shooters. I was quartered in the house of an eminent lawyer, where we had very good rooms and were extremely well taken care of. On December i. Dr. Busch and I drove to Boves, where we found only twelve of our wounded, but two hundred wounded French soldiers, under the care of French doctois, who were very polite and kind to us We breakfasted at the chateau of Boves, belonging to Bareness de Vaubert, who did a great deal for the wounded. We visited, in Boves^ the English Colonel Cox and his wife, who had there a depot of the International Society for the aid of the wounded Though the sympathy of these English was said tc be more with the French than with us I cannot com- plain that they showed any partiality, but have only to acknow- ledge their readiness to assist us, and their doing so with no nnt, but in tl. most Hberal manner I received from them, amongst oth . things, several fine surgical instruments and also a -plendid ; npntation case, which I gave to Dn von Kiihlewetter, P'-ofessor Busch's skilful assistant. Cclonel Cox was a tall, thin, particularly English-looking P^nglirhman, and Mrs. Cox a little, very active, English lady. I shall have to mention them on another occasion, where they rendered us the most important services in great need. They gave us now a whole waggon-load of excellent things, amongst which were many delicacies and a good quantity of very valu- S4i4i Ten Feai of my Life. able condensed milk, all of which I sent to the hospital in Sains, were still were one hundred and eighty severely wounded. General von Manteufifel visited all the hospitals, and spoke kindly to the wounded, conl^incing himself that they were cared for. There were four hundred in the Museum ; a most beautiful building, built by Napoleon III., containing very fine pictures and statutes, of which many were gifts of the Em- peror and Empress. The library had nlso been fiUed up as a hospital. With these wounded in Amiens, Moreuil, and Sains, we had always plenty of occupation. - - On December 7, we all started for Rouen, and arrived in Granvillers in a great snowstorm : it was very agreeable for us that we got good quarters in a hotel, for we needed refresh- ment. We met here a clerg}man, the Divisions Prediger Clansiiis, who was excellent company, and nodespiser of good champagne, which agreed very well with his cloth, especially as he did not like to drink it alone. Next day we came to La Feuille, where we were quartered in the chateau belonging to Baron Gaston de Joubert, which offer.'^d -», sad spectacle, for it looked like a plucked hen. All the o'^Vc? were broken open, and over the floor were scattered a gr=?tx*, variety of things, as dresses, bonnets, shawls, slippers, children's toys, books, and hundreds of other objects too long to mention. An old man-servant of the house was very sorry for his masters. With tears in his eyes he fetched from a corner a picture representing a beautiful lady, saying, ' Look, this is my sweet mistress ; and God knows what she will do when she returns and finds her home destroyed in this manner.' I do not know what troops committed this act of barbarity, or the reason of it. The mayor sent us supper and bed-linen, but we felt very cold and desolate ; for in the room in which I was sleeping with Miss Runkel the stove was worse than no stove, for it smoked and no fire could be made. We arrived in Rouen on December 9, late in the evening, and had to dislodge three oihcers who had taken possession of our quarters. When we went out next day to look at the cathedral we were struck by the appearance of the people, who stared at us with such burning hatred in their eyes that it was quite painful. The streets were crowded with hundreds General von Manteuffel. 345 of beggars, who all looked more like robbers. Most of them were workmen out of work, and the citizens were very much afraid they would plunder the city if we left it. In the museum we found a portrait of a Prince Croy, who had been archbishop of Rouen, and whose tomb, with a beau- tiful monument, is in the cathedral. Sunday, the nth, I called with Miss Runkel on General von Manteuffel to ask him for an order for woollen things, of which the wounded were much in need, as it was very cold. Though I had seen the general often, this was the first time I spoke with him. Hearing that the want of cigars was badly felt by the officers, and having still about seven hundred left, I proposed an exchange for woollen things, which were easily to be had, a?- they were manufactured in Rouen, and he accepted, much amused with my talent for trade, giving me an order for the things I required. Our staying in Rouen was by no means pleasant, for the people hated us intensely, and, if they really had had an idea how weak we were, they might have captured all of us, for, in fact, there were no soldiers in the city except the staff and the wounded. We all were glad when we had Rouen behind us without shots being sent after us, for it was believed by several that we should not be permitted to pass the gate. We marched out on the 17th, and near Le Heron we were quartered in the house of M. Auguste Renard, the mayor, an old man of seventy-two, who had been taken by our troops and condemned to be shot as a spy ; but General von Goeben had investigated the case, and he came off with the fright. On the 1 8th we were in Marseille-le-Petit, and the following day in Bretuil, from whence we next day were to return to Amiens to re-occupy it. The citadel had always remained occupied by our troops. On December 23 we received from headquarters the notice to prepare ourselves for a battle. The French barred our road, and had taken a rather favorable position in the village of Querriere and the heights behind it. We advanced on the main road leading to that place, but when arrived at a house which was about six miles from it, we were ordered to stay tliere and wait for further orders. It was towards eleven o'clock, a.m., when we had to advance again until we saw the 846 Ten Years of ony Life. village of Querriere about a musket-shot before us, and our troops forming for the attack. It was as wonderful a winter day as I have ever seen. The, sun was shining brightly, though it was cold, and the snow appeal-ed like sparkling silver. The columns of our infantry advanced in the regular and steady manner I had seen often in our manoeuvres near Coblentz and Cologne Professor Busch looked out for a proper site to establish a ' Verbandplatz.' There stood a little house on the road, a shoemaker's shop, which seemed convenient ; it was in every way a better place than any in the field, offering protection against the cold, which would have rendered any operations nearly impossible. The house had already attracted the attention of some other ambulance party arriving before us, but after much deliberation, hastened by some bullets, it was considered too near the front and given up. Professor Busch, however, seeing no other place near, decided on establishmg ourselves there, trusting to chance and good luck. Some slightly wounded were already there, and, as the place was very confined and they had to remain outside, where they were exposed to being wounded again, the pro- fessor wished to have them carried back to the place where we had stopped at first for further orders. No means of transpor- tation being at hand, I offered my light carriage, and Frank, the coachman, drove several times to the house on the road, and went afterwards even on the battle-field, in 'he rear of our advancing troops, to pick up some wounded. Our house was very small and consisted of only two narrow rooms. We had, of course, brought with us all necessary things, and arranged these rooms as a ' Verbandplatz.' The floor of one of them was covered with straw, being reserved exclusively for those who were wounded beyond any hope and must die. In the other room were placed the tables tor amputation. The wounded were brought in in great numbers, and amongst them were sixteen deadly wounded, who were laid in ihe afore-mentioned room to die. These w^re mostly those that had received wounds in the body, and who bled mwardly to death. They did not suffer so much as those whose limbs were shattered, and had, therefore, no idea of the danger of their situation A Sad Case. 347 Amongst those deadly wounded was a young soldier wounded by a piece of a shell in the abdomen. The pro- fessor saw at once that there was no hope ; he therefore only stuffed as much lint as possible into the fearful wound, and had him laid aside on the straw. The poor man, who did not feel much pain, believed himself neglected, and when I came to look after him he complained to me that the wounds of the others that came after him were dressed ; he wanted to be dressed also, and to be sent back to the hospital at Amiens, &c. Poor fellovv' I It would have been too cruel to tell him that he must die ; and the Professor told me to give him some morphine and whatever he wanted to drink. Alas, we had nothing to drink, neither wine nor brandy ; and it was so much required by the wounded and others too, tor it was, as I said, very cold. There arrived help at the right moment ; an English captain, sent by Colonel Cox, brought us a whole waggon-load oi good things, as port wine, sherry, brandy, whiskey, biscuits, condensed milk, etc., not forgetting warm blankets and warm clothing. This Interna- tional Society was indeed a blessing to us, and they were everywhere at the different ' Verbandplatze.' I am sorry that I have not retained the names of the gentlemen who rendered us such good services ; but in fact I was too much occupied always to inquire, and did not know even the names of many with whom 1 worked together for weeks. 1 remember, how- ever, that of an American, Mr. Goodenough, also belonging to the Internationgil Society, and the person, though not the name, of a young Englishman of some noble family, who made himself very useful. The English captain did not bring provisions for the wounded only ; it had not been forgotten that other people would require refreshments also, and there was plentv. We all had our hands full of work, for Professor Busch had to perform nine amputations ; and in the other room on the straw were lying sixteen mortally wounded, who all died there. I assisted at all the amputations by chloroforming the men ; made hot water, washed off the blood, and cleaned the sponges, knives, and other surgical instruments, etc., whilst soldier servants carried in the wounded, fetched water and what else was required. o4'b> Ten Years of my Life, We were too busy to pay much attention to the sound of shells passing over our house, for Professor Busch said it would be time enough to think of our security when a shell should strike the roof, which, hovvever, fortunately did not hap- pen. The things going on ojitside were interesting enough to attract my curiosity, and whenever I had a moment to spare, wanting some fresli air, I went outside to see how the battle was going on. This was, however, a rather dangerous curi- osity, which cost much to the division pastor, Rev. Mr. Gross, from Coblentz. He had attended to his merciful duty, com- forting some dying, and went to the corner of the house to take some air, when he was struck by a bullet and rather severely wounded. The scene was a most lively one, for every moment wounded arrived, or officers of the staff running with messages to different places, stopping for a moment at our house and accepting gratefully some much-needed refreshment. Our house became soon too full, and many poor wounded had to remain for hours outside in the bitter cold, until rough peasant carts arrived to carry them to the hospital in Amiens, where Miss Runkel had remained. Professor Busch and all of us felt the greatest pity, and were quite distressed when we saw the poor amputated carried like sheep in these rough vehi- cles, in which they suffered immensely on their long drive to Amiens, which was more than ten English miles off. I regretted much the want of such ambulances as we had in America, and which were so immensely useful. At some other part of this work I have spoken about them ^nd other Ameri- can sanitary arrangements, to which I refer. Querriere was taken by our troops, and darkness ended the battle, but not our work ; but much could not be done by the light of the candles which we found a:nongst thd provisions brought by these kind, thoughtful English people. We were, hovvever, utterly exhausted ; wrapt up in our work, we did not feel that we were hungry and thirsty ; but now nature would have its due. A tired and hungry doctor from some other sta- tion dropped in, and so did several officers ; we were about a dozen persons in the little room. I rinsed the kettle I had used, and with condensed milk I made some splendid chocolate. The amputation table was superficially wiped with straw; and sitting and standing around Birthday Celebration. 349 it we enjoyed our chocolate and English biscuits, whilst in the next room were sixteen dead and dying, and in the corner of our room a heap of cut-oft arms and legs. It was past eight p.m. when we, tired as hunters, arrived in Amiens, not however to rest or sleep, for much work awaited us in the museum. Of course the wounds had been dressed on the battle-field in a hurried manner, and had to be re- dressed again now. Poor surgeon-general Dr. Wagner, of the second army corps, who died afterwards of typhus, Professor Busch, some other doctors, Miss Runkel, and myself worked until three o'clock a.m., when we went to our well-earned rest, — but only for three hours. At six o'clock next morning we were up again, for a renewal of the battle was expected ; but as there was only slight skrimishing going on, and doctors enough in the field. Dr. Busch thought chat his presence would be of more avail in the hospital. Amongst the many wounded was an artilleryman, whose face was one black mass, a hardened crust covering it like a vizor. One hand was also burnt, and his foot was pierced by a long shaft of iron, torn off from the carriage of the gun when the caisson exploded, being struck by a shot. The Pro- fessor feared that he would lose both his eyes, but gave him in charge of Miss Runkel, who, with the greatest patience, bathed his poor eyes with a sponge to soften the crust, and after many days she at last succeeded in removing it. Lifting with a little lint the much swollen eyelids. Miss Runkel was delighted on hearing him exclaim that he could see. His eyes were indeed saved, and his other wounds also healed. The 25th of December was poor Felix's birthday and mine also; it was the first 1 had passed without him, and I was extremely sad. To overcome my thoughts, I worked all day in the hospital. Somebody had told my good landlady that it was my birthday, and she invited all my friends to a celebra- tion dinner at seven o'clock p.m., but I could not take part in it, though my brother-in-law was rather angry with me, for my non-appearance grieved the kind people of the house. Next day, however, when the birthday of Prince Alfred was cele- brated, I could not refuse. I had arranged in Amiens a kind of private hospital of my own, where were lying officers ill with typhus, to whom, after the battle, were added some wounded. Amongst these latter, 850 Ten Years of my Life. but in the ' Petit Lyce'e ' hospital, was a young officer from Coblentz, a friend of ours, Count Luttichau, and also a Captain Voelkel. Both ol them had young wives, and their only thought was with them, and ever and again they wished to have them near their bed. I therefore promised to telegraph for them ; but found it very difficult to keep my promise, for I had to go to many persons and at last to apply for permission to the commander of the army himself The wounded were happy when I told them that I had tele- graphed, and they counted the hours. Whenever poor Luttichau heard me he opened his large black eyes and asked with such a longing voice whether his dear wife had not ar- rived yet. Travelling in that time, was, however, a difficult thing, depending on chance and taxing patience to the utmost. Both Countess Luttichau and Mrs. Voelkel bved in Coblentz. The latter being retained by some circumstance or other, the countess started alone, and arrived on the morning when poor Captain Voelkel died. About twelve hours later in the middle of the night, when I was already in bed, somebody knocked at my door ; it was Mrs.- Captain Voelkel ; I felt so very sorry for the poor young wife, who was quite stiff with cold, for the weather was very severe, and I gave up my bed to hei. The young widow wanted to take the body oi her husband home ; and I had to run about to the prefecture, the head- quarters, to order a coffin, etc., and all the people employed m that sad affair came to me. Countess Luttichau was more fortunate, she had the happiness to nurse her husband and see him recover. In the commencement of January we received notice to provide proper accommodation for General von Blankensee, who had typhoid fever. The general, who had been suffering already some time from fever, would not admit that he was ill, but at last when he became delirious, he had t^ go'to Amiens. On his arrival, and descending from the carriage, two soldiers offered to assist him, but he shook them off impatiently, saying that he was not so ill and weak that he could not walk alone, and collecting all his strength he really did ; but he was so wasted and pale that it was pitiful to look at him. As he felt uncomfortable in the narrow hospital bed and wished for a wider one, I tried to satisfy him, ari could not manage it in any other manner than by enterini^ with some Voluntary ThanJcs. 351 soMiers an hotel and helping myself to a good convenient bed. The landlord lavished a whole flood of French exclamations and complained at the prefecture ; but the prefect, Count Lehndorf, did not deal very severely with me, and the general retained his bed. He was indeed very ill, and I nursed him with great care, myself cooking for him. He, however, wanted to see his dear good wife, and the thought of her did not leave his mind for a moment. As he was so dangerously ill, we telegraphed for her ; but she lived far away in Germany, and day passed after day, each probably appearing to the poor general like a week. At last she arrived after eight days, and the joy of her husband was great ; he repeated over and over again, ' I knew she would come, I knew it.' I arranged a small adjoining room for her, and he had at last the consola- tion of dying in the arms of his beloved wife, a few days after her arrival. The poor woman was nearly heartbroken, and her : ^erings opened all the wounds of my heart ; it was almost ,/ond my strength. All these ladies wrote afterwards kind letters to me, thank- ing me for the care I had bestowed on their husbands, and the little services I was enabled to render them. Though I did not go to the tield to satisfy my vanity or earn any praise, I felt gratified by such letters, of which I received many even from private soldiers, who, when at home amongst their families, remembered that I had dressed their wounds, taken care for their comfort and spoken kind words to them. In the night of January 4, we were ordered to Albert, near which place a fight had Occurred in which the 8th regiment of cuirassiers had been engaged. It was bitter cold when Pro- fessor Busch, Dr. von Kiihlewetter, Prince Alfred and myself drove there. We found in Albert, Captain von Marien, of the 8th cuirassiers, who lay in a private house. He was very badly wounded, and the Professor decided that he must suffer an amputation. Whilst the Professor cut off his leg I chloro- formed him, and afterwards the captain requested me to telegraph to Deutz for his wite, which was done from Amiens, where I, however, could not go myself, as we were wanted in Bapaume. A fight had taken place near that town on the 2nd and 3rd, and on evacuating it the Freneh had carried oif our wounded. As we entered Bapaume the alarum was sounding, fur it had 352 Ten Years of my Life. been reported that the French were advancing. Whoever has not seen such a scene cannot imaghie it. The place was only occupied by cavalry, commanded by General Count Groeben. When we entered his headquarters the General had left, but we found in the kitchen his distracted cook, the roast on the spit and a good meal in preparation. When 1 saw him pack up the half-cooked meat, and everything he could grab in his hurry, I stopped him, requesting him to run if he liked behind his general, but to leave us the victuals, for Bapaume looked as if there was nothing eatable to be had in it. The cook defended manfully his general's dinner, but yielding to my persuasion and perseverance we at last secured a sufticient supply. The French, however, did not come that time, and Count Groeben had been airing himself all day for nothing. We heard that the French had carried our wounded to a village not far off, where they were left, the French having evacuated. These wounded, about one hundred, we found in the most miserable state. I'hey had been carried off from Bapaume on horseback, or thrown pell-mell into carts, and though many of them were very severely wounded their wounds were not dressed for several days. Amongst them was Captain von Butler, who had a shot through his lungs. After having examined him Professor Busch told me that there was no hope, and requested me to give him a dose of morphine to comtort him, and do what was possible, but die he must ; and so he did. The wounded were all brought to a convent, forming a part of a building used as a barrack, and in communication with it. After the wounded had had their wounds dressed, my first care was to look out for something for them to eat. I found in the kitchen a man, Heinrich, whom I had often seen, as he was head-waiter at Perron's, a fine restaurant in Bonn, and who had volunteered to go to the war as a cook. I knew him to be a practical, handy man, having met him before in the war and admired the good care which he took of the wounded in a hospital to which he was attached. He was very service- able now ; he cooked for the poor wounded, and assisted me, and I was always pleased when I saw him occasionally at Perron's, where he is still head-waiter. Looking about in the convent serving us as hospital, I en- tered a darkened little room, where I found a bed w'.th some- Return to Amiens. 353 body in it. On examining the patient, I started back rather frightened, when looking in the black face of a Frenchman, left there ill with the small-pox. We remained a night and a day in Bapaume, when again came news of an advance of the French, and General Groeben left with his troops. We started several hours after him, and the French arrived, only much later, having ascertained that the Prussians had evacuated the place. I returned to Amiens. I found plenty of work in the museum, where we had about live hundred wounded brought from different places, mostly in a st3.te of exhaustion, and the Professor urgently demanded that they should be well nourished and have between their regular meals each, bread and butter, with meat, and a glass of wine, which gave Miss Runkel ancj myself enough to do. Poor General Blankensee died, as I mentioned before, and Mrs. von Blankensee wanted to take home his body, Mrs. Captain von Marien had also arrived, accompanied by Mrs. von L , her friend, and a nun, with a letter of recom- mendation from Colonel von Wedell, the staff commander of Cologne, an old friend of mine, who sent everybody to me. Though I had scarcely a minute to spare and my usual duties were fatiguing me to the utmost limit of my strength, I had not only to comfort these poor afflicted wives, but also to ad- vise them and to attend to their most triffling affairs, as they were amongst us like the babes in the wood. Mrs. von Marien, who was very delicate and nervous, of course wanted to be with her wounded husband in Albert, but on hearing that it was again occupied by the French, she be- came frightened and undecided, went many times out and in the carriage, until at last her love conquered, and she went off with the nun ; her friend Mrs. von L , whose husband was also a captain in the cavalry, remained behind, and Count Lehndorf kindly provided quarters for her in the town-hall, where she had the pleasure of seeing her husband, whilst her friend nursed and comforted Captain von Marien, who died however. Calling one day on Count Lehndorf on some business, I had a pain in my back and a dreadful headache. The Count on looking in my face exclaimed, quite alarmed, ' For God's sake, Princess, what is the matter with you ? Have you not V f» -■ 54 Ten Years of my Life. seen your face ? Go home at once, and to bed, for you are very ill' I had not seen my face that morning, for I could do my hair and toilet without a looi:ing-glass ; it was red and inflamed all over, and returning to my quarters I at once sent for Pro- fessor Busch. When he looked at me he made a rather long, serious face, for I had caught the small-pox in Bapaume from the Frenchman who had been left behicd in the hospital. Prince Alfred was quite beside himself. The Professor did not give me any other medicine but hot milk, as much as I could drink, and I am happy to say that the thing turned out better than any of us expected, owing, as the doctor said, to my healthy blood and good condition. I did not get the black small-pox, but a more harmless kind, which left only three little marks on my face. When we on the i6th of January received marching orders for Peronne, where a skirmish had occurred, and a battle was expected, I had been in bed only four days, and Professor Busch said, if I got up and caught a cold I should die. I did not, however, care if I did, and left also for Peronne, where General von Memerty was severely wounded, and lying in a private house. He had a shot in the same place as that from which poor Captain von Marien died, and when Professor Busch examined the state of the wound he said that it was too late for amputation, and ordered a plaster of Paris bandage, vWiich I prepared. When it was done. Dr. von Klihlewetter asked me in a whisper, ' What do you say, Princess, will he die?' I shook my head and said confidently, 'He will live.' The doctor believed in my faculty for seeing life or death in the face of a patient, having been always correct in my pro- phecies. I cheered up the general who eagerly looked in my eyes, and told him that everything would go 'well with him. He said afterwards, that the expression of my eyes had given him great comfort and confidence, adding some compliments to these eyes, which of course pleased me because they were honestly meant. We found in Peronne about three hundred wounded, all in a very miserable state. Professor Buscli said that they must be taken to Amiens, but have something to eat before leaving. There was nothing to be had in that utterly devastated place, and we were in despair, when again our good English friends In Peronne. 355 came to our assistance. They brought us a^reat quantity of good things, especially potted meat, which was highly welcome and much needed. Poinding in the kitchen of a barrack three large boilers, I had them filled with water, put in the meat and every crust of bread we could find, and with this I made a good soup with whicu Prince Alfred and Miss Runkel fed the poor wounded. Prince Alfred was untiring in his merciful duties as a knigTit of Malta ; he was always on the spot day and night, and doing the most menial services, in nursing, not only the w^ounded, but especially those ill with typhus or small-pox, of whom there were a great number amongst the French. All the patients we found in Peronne were placed in carts and con- veyed to Amier People reading at home in the papers of battles and of the number of dead and wounded, cannot easily imagine the sights we saw, the heartrending scenes through which we had to pass, and the immense deal of work we had to do. When evening came we were often utterly exhausted. One night, when Prince Alfred by mere chance passed a yard, he saw in the snow a dark human form, and coming near he found Miss Runkel senseless on the ground. Having worked all day, she was sitting at the bedside of a wounded man, when the smell, added to her exhausted state, became too much for her ; she went out to have some fresh air and fainted. Jimmy the dog had a better life than we had. In Amiens he did not hear any firing and was happy ; but I suppose he was ashamed at being so idle, or the war-fever raging around seized him, — he wanted to fight the French on his part also. One day, when coming with me out of the ho~pital, he met a large Fr nch dog, of the Newfoundland breed, carrying a basket in his mouth. Jimmy scarcely saw him bef ^ he charged. The large Frenchman, quietly putting down his basket, caught poor Jimmy by one of his ears, and having t^rn out a piece, he took up his basket again and trotted off, leaving Jimmy pro- fusely bleeding in my arms. Though I sympathized greatly with my favourite's defeat, I could not but admire his big enemy, which was the most dignified Frenchman I ever saw. On J nuary 19, 1871, General von Goeben beat the French in the battle of St. Quentin, in the most decided and glorious manner. They were commanded by General Faidherbe, re- placing General Bourbaki, who was left to be beaten somewhere else. S')Q Ten Years of my Life. When we wept to St. Quentin we passed over the battlefield, which was still strewn with dead and all kinds of arms. The ground in consequence of rains, was extremely soft, and the French found it just as hard to run away as the Prussians to run after them. Evidence of this was found in the many boots and even stockings we saw sticking in the mud. Arriving in St. Quentin we did not find General Goeben, as he was in pursuit of the nimble-footed enemy. We took up quarters in a little hotel and commenced work. A hospital had been established in Le Petit Lycee, where we had nearly five hundred wounded. When General von Goeben returned to St. Quentin he re- quired the little hotel for head-quarters, and we had to look out for some other house. It was found by Prince Alfred in a splendid place, discovered by the knights of St. John, who had established there their depot, and had still room enough for Professor Busch and his whole party. This house belonged to the family of Cambronne, and had been locked up since the death of its last proprietor. It was very spacious and provided with a very well supplied wine- cellar and othei provisions. Amongst other things I discovered, behind a carefully-locked door which attracted my attention, a great quantity of preserves, fruit, jellies, and jams, which I ac- quired in the regular way of requisition for my wounded ; and the same was the case in reference to the wine-cellar, from which a good number of bottles were used for the hospital I have already said that there was not much love lost between the knights of St. John and the doctors The former a^^sumed an authority to which the doctors would not submit, as it became indeed sometimes very troublesome and hindering ; the knights indignant at this want of respect, could not forbear, showing their displeasure, and annoying the doctors whenever they had an opportunity. M. von Brinken, in charge of the depot in the Hotel Cam- bronne, in order to show that the knights of St. John were not as ignorant and unpractical in reference to the arrangements required for a hospital as these irreverent scientific leeches as- serted, had resolved to establish a little hospital of his own, which was intended to become a kind of pattern hospital. As it seemed, however, a pity to place the wounded in the mag- nificent house itself, the hospital was established in a rather A Dodorless Private Hospital. 357 dismal-looking outhouse, which might have served as a manu- factory of some kind or other. As Professor Busch and others, however, found that the site of this outhouse was by no means healthy, M. von Brinken had to make bonne mijie au mauvaisjeu, and transfer the wounded, mostly if not all Saxons, to two splendid halls of the mansion itself, which were arranged for that purpose. M. von Brinken, had, however, counted with- out his host, as he found out very soon, for the doctors, who had their hands full at the great hospital in the Lycee refused attend the private hospital in the Hotel Cambronne. — • Though Professor Busch lived in the same house, and now and then visited the wounded lying there, he had more important dimes, which occupied him nearly all day somewhere else ; ad M. von Brinken had no other assistance than that of Miss Runkel, who for longer than a week worked herself nearly to death. She wash^^d herself the feet of her twenty-six patients, who arrived mostly in a most filthy state, before she placed them ni the clean beds, and dressed their wounds to her best abihty. She had also to cook for them all, and even to carry the water. Only much later she got a French woman to assist her in these menial duties. I could do for her but little, as I had more than enough on my hands with my five hundred wounded in the official great hospital. The end of the thing was that t'le knight had to give in and to break up his doctorless hospital, removing his wounded to the Lycee, \T)here Miss Runkel took especial charge oi the officers' ward. At the head of the depot of the knights in the Hotel Cam- bronne was, as said before, M. von Brinken, who was followed later by Count von Sierstorpff, and besides him were at times other knights in the house, as Count Schafgotsch, Count Finkenstein and others, with whom we passed some most pleasant hours after having attended the duties of the day. Mine were by no means easy. Leaving the dressing of the wounds to the doctors and the nurses, I made it again my especial duty to provide for the nourishment of my five hun- dred people. I created order in the large kitchen, and took care to have my larder always sufficiently supplied. Before I left in the evening I gave out what was required for the first breakfast, and ordered what was to be cooked for dinner next day. Early in the morning a Carriage furnished 358 Ten Years 0/ my Life, by the Prefect fetched us from our house. Having convinced myself first that all my orders had been executed, I prepared myself the lunch. I, with two assistants, cut bread for all the five hundred, buttered it, and- put on it some meat or jam. Before I left for my ov/n dinner I went to the kitchen, super- intended the cooking and tasted the dinner for my wound. d, giving my orders for special cases. After dinner, when the w unded had had their c fi I took with me a good supply of cigars from the stores Oi the knights, and went through the different wards distributing the cigars myself, not trusting always the attendants, who coveted this rnuch desired article, which commenced to get scarce. On this occasion I spoke to the men, inquiring what they had had for lunch and dinner, thus making sure that my orders had been carried out properly. Then I superintended the preparations for supper, and having made my arrangements, for next day, I went home, mostly dead beat. If I had much work and trouble I at least had the satisfaction that the com- missary department ot the hospital was in excellent order, and that everything went on like clock-work. Miss Runkel attended, as I mentioned before, to the wounded officers. When she had ascertained from me all that was to be had next day lor dinner, she went with this mc-u to the officers to hear wha each of them might prefer, and communicated it to me. Thus the hospital was carried on, from the 20th of January until the loth of February when I left for Germany. At that time the r 'stice had been concluded, and my brother-in-law wished to ^o home to look after his family and his private affairs, and his eldest son Leopold was .^Iso to take leave of absence. They were of opinion that I could not well stay alone behind. The doctor wished Miss Runkel t ) remain at least, promis- ing to see her home safely after peace was concluded ; but having become much attached to me, and her family not wish- ing her to remain alone with the army, she consented to return and to stay with me as my friend and -companion. With this my activity in the war ended. I did my duty to the best of my ability, and if I may trust to the expressions of thanks in many letters which I received, I am justified in believing that my services were of some avail. Decorations. 35 9 The commander of the army to which I was attached, Gen- eral von Manteuftel, who had observed my activity both in the hu. itals and in the battles of Moreuil on November 27th, aud in that of the 23rd of December near Querriere, ordered the surgeon-general of his army, Dr. Westphal, to take infor- niu-iion in reference to my behaviour and activity as a nurse. He therefore applied officially to the surgeon-general of the 8th c^rmy corps, Professor Dr. Busch, and after having received a report from him and submitted it to General von Manteuffel, • i latter asked for me from His Majesty the order of the iron cross, which request was forwarded to Versailles by an especial courier. He received, however, the answer that this order could only be given to men, but that a decoration for the women who had distinguished themselves in the war would be awarded and that I should receive it. This decoration was bestowed on many thousands of women throughout all Ger- many, whether they worked on the battlefield, or hundreds of miles away from it ; and as it could only be awarded according to the reports made by local authorities, it has now and then been given to persons who had some local influence, although their exertions for the army were rather trifling. After General von Manteuffel had gone south, General von Goeben commanded the 2nd army, and I had the pleasure of receiving from him the following letter : * Amiens, the 5th March, 1871. * In reply to i-he letter received from your Highness, I, on your parting from here, feel urged to express in the name of the ist army the thanks which the same owes to you. During all the war until peace your High- ness has with the utmost self-sacrifice uninterruptedly kept in view the difficult task which you undertook voluntarily at the commencement of the war, and has benefited thcsick and wounded irv the most efficient manner. The army thanks you for this generous devotion from thousands of hearts, and as I have the honour of commanding now the 1st army I beg to be allowed to express to your Highness this thanks in the name of all, and especially of those whom the careful hand of your Highness has nursed and solaced in the hard days of suffering. ' Requesting your Highness to accept the assurance of the greatest respect, I have the honour of remaining, etc. ' (Signed) von Goeben, * General of Infantry.' ^GO Ten Years of my Life. Having asked the gallant commander of the 2nd army corps. General von Fransecky, for his photograph for my album of the war, I received trom him the tollowing letter, which I pub- lish more on account of its 'distinguished amiable writer than for my own satislaction : * The kind letter with which your Highness favoured me has been duly received the day before yesterday here in Strasburg. where I have been since a few days, in my new positioa as commanding general of the newly formed 15th army corps. Thanking you for it very i. ^vtily I need not add that its reception^ as a visible token of your continued fivour and grace, makes me very happy. I have ^ften remembered 'he ime, in which I saw your Highness work with such devo^■"^ and self-sacrificing, with such eftective and beneficial activity for our s and wounded in the hospitals and depots at Ars-sur-Moselle, and never ceased greatly admiring and thanking you for it ; and I am sure that at home many grateful heartr, will still reniember you for a long time afterwards, and proclaim your praise thankfully and honouring you. None of *he many noble women, who like you have undertaken to care for and nurse the wounded m the field hospitals, have equalled you in zeal ; none have been able to surpass you in success, — of this I have been a witness ! The reward of heaven will and cannot fail you, and the dear gracious God who took from you yoiu" husband will from henceforth let spring from those works of Christian charity the richer blessings ! He will be your protector aiid comfortor, when and where you should feel yourself alone ! ! * It was very amiable and gracious of you to follow M'ith your thoughts myself and the Pomeranian Army Corps on the ways which fate led us ju^.t before Paris, and then to the Swiss frontier, and that you bestowed your sympathies and praise on the feats of arms of our soldiers, which were favoured and rewarded with success by good iuck. Please to accept f^r this likewise my heartfelt thanks. It is a fine reward • a soldier to hear from the lips of a preiry and noble lady the acknowledgment of having done his duty. And t/ici we have done all — but not morel ' Understanding fully your griei in breaking up your h nn:^ in Coblsntz. I sympathise with it liom the dep'h of my heart. In the liosom of your relatives in Anholt I hope you wiJl find that rest and -comi ^t you req" -e so much, after the hard times ygu had since the summer of la "• year, Also your grief will be soothed there, where all feel it so deeply wi \ you I ' Since your Highness has shown such iriendly mtere^t in my fortunes during the war, I may suopose that my transfer from the 2nd to the 15th Army Corps and its meaning will not have escaped "Our notice. His Majesty the Emperor and King in placing me at the head of this new army corps and these newly acquired countries, intended t-"> give me a proof of his particular confidence, and in this expression I feel spurred on anew to do everything in my power to make myseit worthy of this confi- dence. The task which I found to be accompUshed here, is, however, very difficult — and until now I do not see anvthing around ine but chaos ! I feel, however, strong in my good will and confidence and re iance in myself — and what is still the principal thing, in God. With His assistance I hope to pull through ! General Fransechjs Letter. SGI * Herewith I beg to forward the ordered pho<-ogrophs; I hope to replace them soon by better ones'. It has become usual in thr -world to exchange photograph for photograph ; will your Highness present me wich yours as an evidence of your favour ? You will follow at least graciously the usus ! ' With the expression of the greatest respect and devotion, I have the honour cf signing as * Your Highness's most obedient. ' ijtrasburg, April jth, 1871/ ' Fransecky, • General of Infant ly. S62 CHAPTER XXI 11. Going to Germany — In Anholt — My husband's debts — Different views — Returning to my deserted home — Sympathisers — Pestered tr death — A last appeal to a brother — A princely answer — What 1 . esolved to do — Baron Edward Openheim— Going to Berlin — A priva' ondience with his Majesty the Emperor — What happened i it — G'^nera' voi. Treskow — My offer accepted — Audience with my gracious Empress — Moving to the Augusta hospital — Noble nurses — Visit of Emperor and Empress — A present from Her Majesty — Lost — Called home — Moving to Bonn — Persecutions — A forged signature- -Law suit — My health failing — In Luzern — Going tr Clarence — To Pisa — To Naples —Eruption of Mount Vesuvius — I want lo see it very near — Jimmy's distress — Pompeii. Escorted by my nephew, Prince Leopold, and accompanied by Miss Runkel, Jimmy, and my pigeon, which I intended as a present for my youngest niece, Princess Flaminia, m Anholt, I left Amiens Before returning to my so long deserted, once happy home in Coblentz, I had resolved to pay a visit to An- holt, in order to consult with my brother-in-law in reference to my future. My poor husband had in his letter recommended me to Prince Alfred's care, and the latter had assured me re- peatedly that he would assist me as a brother. AVhen the war broke out so suddenly, and we had to leave Coblentz, it was impossible to make any arrangements. I was afraid to return there unprepared, for I knew very well what I should have to encounter. Necessity had compelled me to renounce the heritage of my husband, and I did so under the advice of my brother-in-law, as I was unable to pay all his debts, of which the greater part were contracted before he married me. There existed, however, debts which had been incurred My Husband's Debts. 8G3 during our life in Coblentz, and amongst them a great number of unsettled household bills owing to servants and tradespeople, which 1 felt in honour bound to pay, even if I should have to make the greatest personal sacrifices. I knew very well that I was not bound by law to do so, but there are laws superior even to those managed by the courts and lawyers. These debts were comparatively trifling, amounting in all to a few thousand thalers, and I expected from Prince Alfred that he would enter into my views and assist me in carrying them out. Pnnce Alfred had assisted his brother frequently. Though not compelled by the laws of the country to do so, other laws to which I alluded above made this assistance a duty. The trifling appanage to which Felix, as a younger brother, had been entitled by the law of the country, was applied to the pay- ment of debts made when in the Austrian service. On his return from Mexico, Prince x\lfred allowed him out of his own pocket twelve hundred thalers a year, and paid part of his debts, for v/hich a life assurance policy served as a security. It was paid \o Prince Alfred, and thus his sacrifices were con- siderably diminished. Moreover, by the death of poor Felix, the annuity \i rvelve hundred thalers and the regular appanages expired. I \.m far from blaming Prince Alfred for acting with circumspection, for ^-r had himself many children. The Prince did act think it necessary for the honour of his family to pay usurers and sharpers who had profited by the im- providence of the young prince his brother, and his views in this respect were approved by other men who are better judges than myself in reference to such a subject ; and these views were not repugnant to my feelings either. But far different was it in refrence to straightforward, un- questionable claims, debts contracted with tradesmen who had furnished us the necessities of life, people who lived by their honest trade, as grocers, butchers, bakers, tailers, shoemakers, &c., not to speak of house-servants, whose several claims it was impossible to settle before leaving for the war. There my views diftered from those of my brother-in-law, who maintained that I was not bound to pay them, and refused to lend me the money to do so. During my short sojourn in Anholt I did not succeed in altering his opinion, which disappointed me much. By his brave behaviour in Mexico, and his glorious death, my poor 864 Ten Years oj my Life. husband had done more for the honour of his family than any of its members for several hundred years ; and I imagined that the head of that family mights perhaps be inclined to honour his memory by sacrificing a few paltry thousands, and the more as he, as mentioned before, received the sum for which Felix's life was- insured, and had no longer to pay his annuity. I shall not say more about it, but only state facts necessary to justify the course I was compelled to pursue in consequence of this refusal. The prince offered me rooms and free station in his castle, where I might have lived to the end of my life by his grace. As I had, however, my pension from His Majesty the Emperor of Austria, which I did not owe to the family of Salm but to myself, and moreover, a small pension as the widow of a Prussian major dead on the battlefield, and for other reasons I declined that offer, and returned, with rather bitter feeling in my heart, and only about 200 thalers in my pocket, to Coblentz. When I entered my old home, the first I had since my marriage, and where I had passed a happy time, I felt as a mother who has lost her babe may feel on first entering the empty nursery and seeing there the toys with which her darl- ing once played. Opening my husband's writing-table and looking around in his room, every trifling object reminded me of some little occurrence or some words spoken by him ; and my grief, for which I had, as it were, no leisure during the ardent duties of the war, broke out now with renewed force. The sympathy shown me by the ladies of Coblentz and all my friends there was indeed a soothing balm, but it could not make me forget my loss, nor prevent me from reflecting upon my isolated and wretched situation, which did not even allow me the melancholy luxury of grieving in peace. Rude reality knocked at my door in the shape of clamouring creditors. Poor people ! they were perfectly right to ask payment for thmgs they had furnished, mostly on my own orders, for which they had paid their own money, earned by their own industry and work. Who can blame them if they did not understand my sad and desolate condition ? Used to look upon princes with a certain respect, they could not imagine that a princess should not be able to pay a few thalers, or at least to procure them from the family of her husband, to save his memory Pestered to Death. SOd from the dishonour of robbing poor tradesmen. I cannot blame them that they perha^ps ascribed to my unwillingness or meanness what was the result of utter incapability to satisfy them, and if they expressed their opinion rather freely. It may be a certain class of people will shrug their shoulders at my unprincely weakness in caring for such things ; but the fact is, that I felt utterly unhappy and wretched ; for to such humiliations I had never yet been subjected. I was in a con- stant fever, for whenever the bell rang I expected another creditor, or when I looked through the window, I saw one standing opposite, watching the house with angry eyes. Madame von Corvin, though sad also because she had just lost her mother, came from Frankfort to Coblentz to comfort me ; she was a witness to my humiliations and my fear, and so was Miss Runkel, who did all she could to press off from me these excited creditors, of whom I was the more afraid the more I was convinced of the justice of their demands. I felt certainly great reluctance in applying to His Majesty, who had done already so much for my husband ; but on the other hand I had no other help in this country. The Emperor was however still in France, and the clamour- ing creditors were at my door. Prompt action was required. Under these circumstances, I remembered a man with whom I had become acquainted during the war, and who had made on me the impression of being a good and noble feeling man, — Edward Oppenheim, the great banker of Cologne. Repre- senting to him the situation in which I was placed, I requested from him a loan of two thousand thalers, which were sufficient to satisfy the most urgent necessities. The Baron responded to my confidence in the most amiable manner. When the Emperor returned to Berlin I went there, accom- panied by Miss Runkel. Colonel von Corvin not having re- turned from France Madame Corvin had not yet taken another home, but was living herself in lodgings, where there was no room for me and Miss Runkel ; I had therefore to go to an hotel. On my request, Count Lehndorf, the aide-de-camp of His Majesty, called on me, and making him acquainted with the object of my visit to Berlin, I requested him to procure for me a private audience with the Emperor. This audience was graciously granted, and I shall always 3G6 Ten Years of ony Life. cherish it as one of the most precious recollections of my life • nut on account of its material results, but far more because it made me love and admire still more our kind Emperor, and as I, in this audience, which lasted nearly an hour, had the satis- faction of seeing that my views about what I owed to the memory of my husband, were not ridiculed, but fully approved as correct and proper by the highest authority, — the first Prince and gentleman of the world, the great Emperor of Ger- many. His Majesty was extremely kind and gracious, and listened with great attention and patience to my lengthy explanation and request. When I asked frankly whether I was right or wrong in feeling bound in duty to pay the debts of my hus- band, which were made whilst I lived with him in Coblentz, though I had refused to accept his heritage, and declared that I would abide by the decision of His Majesty, the Emperor answered, with a certain emphasis and a glow of honest indig- nation in his noble face, that I certainly was right in wishing to pay the poor honest tradespeople, though I might accept the benefit of the common law in reference to Salm's old debts contracted with usurers and sharpers. I told the Emperor that I had borrowed two thousand thalers from Baron Edward Oppenheim, which I should have to refund first ; but that I required four thousand thalers more to come to an arrangement with that class of creditors whom I intended to pay. His Majesty referred me to General von Treskow, his adjutant-general, saying that he would arrange with me that matter. I declared to this well-meaning, excellent gentleman, that I would not accept this money otherwise than as a loan, which I would repay by giving up my whole widow's pension until it was repaid. The Emperor, fully understanding the feeling which dictated this offer, was gracious enough to approve and accept it, with the modification, however, that I should repay only four of the six thousand thalers, and give annually only half of my pension for this purpose. General von Treskow proposed to request Field-Marshal von Herwarth to arrange the settlement of my affairs, as I would not receive the money myself: but considering that it would be a great trouble for the veteran general, and that a man of business was more used to such thmgs, I insisted on requesting Baron Oppenheim to take charge of that bui^jness, with which he kindly complied. Augusta Hospital. 367 Of course vvhilsl in Berlin I first paid my respects to Her Majesty the Empress and Queen, whom I saw there for the first time after the death of my husband. Her Majesty kindly inquired about my affairs and future plans, and hearing from me that my presence in Berlin would be required for a longer time, and further that I was thinking of taking charge of some hospital, Her Majesty graciously oftered me a room in the Augusta hospital, where I not only would save great expense but have an opportunity of making myself acquainted with the management of such an establishment. I, of course, accepted with the greatest thanks. The Augusta Hospital is a creation of Her Majesty, and under her special protection and care. It is situated in finely laid-out grounds, and consists of a main building and two American barracks connected with it. It is certainly the finest and most elegant hospital I have seen on the Continent, and is not intended to be a general hospital, like the chanty anc other establishments in Berlin, but more to afford accom- modation ior sick persons who are able to pay for their board and treatment, though there are also about a dozen beds for poor people. • _ In establishing this hospital Her Majesty, thinking of the many poor daughters of noble families intended to create, lor a number ot them at least, a field of noble activity, by which they might benefit society and find at the same time protection against care and want. At the head of this hospital was a Countess Rittberg ; and four other ladies, belonging to noble families, assisted her, witti a number of nurses and servants. These ladies wear all a rather simple but extremely becoming uniform dress, and are distinguished by a round white brooch with a red cross on it Each two of these ladies have very elegantly and properly arranged apartments, and there are besides other rooms for their accommodation, as a dining-room, etc. They have free . lodging in the hospital, and about fifteen pounds a year pocket- money. The first dress is given to them, but afterwards they have to provide for their clothing themselves. The whole hospital makes a very agreeable impression, for all the arrangements are very practical and convenient, and on going through the different wards one has not the uncomforta- ble feeling experienced in many public hospitals, where econ- r» G8 Ten Years of my Life. omy seems the principal object, and the bareness of the rooms and passages reminds one of a prison or a barrack. The mind of sick people requires as much refreshment as the body ; and to look for days or weeks on the grim simplicity of bare white- washed walls is by no means cheering. I am therefore of opinion that a certain amount of ornamental elegance is just as necessary in a hospital as cleanliness ; and neither ornament nor cleanliness are wanting in the Augusta hospital. Though I >vas much pleased with this pattern hospital, it still seemed to me as if the kind intentions of Her Majesty were not perfectly fulfilled, and that the exclusive employment of noble nurses was rather prejudicial to practical success. Though the hospital may be directed by a lady, I think it would be preferable if some sisters of charity were substituted lor the noble nurses. Sisters of charity make nursing the sick the duty of their life ; tliey have done with family connections, have been trained to unreasoning obedience, and are most ex- cellent nursing machines with which a sensible director can work a hospital most admirably. The noble nurses, coming from the midst of their lamilies, bring with them to the hospital prejudices, habits, and tastes which do not always agree with it, and make it extremely difficult to maintain strict discipline, without which such establishments cannot prosper. Notwithstanding these objections to noble nurses, I was ex- tremely pleased with my sojourn in the hospital, and with the amiable ladies employed in it. Her Majesty the Empress visited the hospital frequently, mostly accompanied by Coun- tess Haake. One day, when the royal visit was announced and all were in their rooms, the Empress, followed by the Em- peror, entered the room which I occupied together with Miss Runkel. Countess Haake presented Miss Runkel to their Majesties, and the Emperor said some kind words to her, in- quiring for her brothers who had been officers in the war. His jMajesty is almost always in a good humour, and makes fre- quently kind jocular remarks, which leave always with those to* whom they are addressed a very pleasant feeling ; for in the jokes of the Emperor there is never a tinge of malice ; he is goodness itself I remained a fortnight in the Augusta hospital, and would have stayed until all my rather complicated affairs had been settled, if I had not received letters which made my presence in Coblentz necessary. A Royal Visit . 369 Two days before I left, Her jNIajesty visited the hospital, and came to my room. Sitting down on my sofa she took a small parcel and a photograph out of her pocket. The parcel con- tained a black brooch ot onyx, with a locket at its back. Cutting with a pair of scissors her photograph to the proper size and fitting it in the locket, she gave me the brooch, re- questing me always to wear it in remembrance of her ; she had worn it herself in very sad moments. Much affected by this great kindness of my most gracious sovereign I put on the brooch, and inclined to superstitious ideas as I am, I imagined it was a kind of talisman protecting me against evil, which I must guard like the apple of my eye. As the fastening seemed to me not secure enough, I went on my return to Coblentz to Mrs. Goldschmidt the jeweller, and asked her to make me an extra chain as an additional security, but she laughed at me and said that the fastening was as secure as could be. Still it was not so. When I, one evening, undressed, I discovered with dismay that this my supposed talisman was gone : and I became the more excited, as I never lost anything and now imagined that my good luck was lost with it also. I advertised in several papers offering a reward exceeding the value of the brooch, but in vain ; it was not found, at least not restored to me. I was really afraid to meet Her Majesty again, and when a friendly lady advised me to buy a similar brooch, assuring me that the Empress would not become aware of the change, I could not follow her advice, as it was repugnant to my feel- ings. The Empress did not notice my loss, but I always felt guiky for not confessing it to her. When I returned to Coblentz I was very sad and uncomfor- table in my lodging, where everything reminded me of the happy past. Moreover it had never agreed altogether with my ideas of a home, and to live now with other people in the same house was insupportable to me ; I wanted a home where I was not disturbed by others. Much as I would have liked to re- .main in Coblentz, where I had so many kind friends, I could not find such a small house as I wanted, but in Bonn, which place I liked always very much, I was fortunate enough to find one which suited me in every respect, and which I rented for a less price than I paid for my lodgings in Coblentz. The house belonged to the banker of Bonn, Mr. Cahn, who had fitted it up very tastefully for his recently deceased wife, while w S70 Ten Years of my Life. he was building his splendid castle on the Rhine in Plittersdon, called Aiif dem Rech. The fatigues which I had undergone and the troubles which I experienced impaired my health, and the annoyances caused me by the importunity of many creditors of my poor husband made me still worse. Becoming aware that I had paid some, they imagined that I must pay all, and pursued me in the most annoying manner. One of them produced even a bill signed not only by Salm, but bearing also my own signature. I had not signed the bill produced ; it was a forgery ; but the Tew, believing himself to be in the right, went to law. The court, decided in my lavour, as the expert declared that the signature was not mine ; but I had to appear several times and at very inconvenient moments, for twice I was obliged to interrupt my travels and to return from great distances to Bonn. The physicians advised me to go to Switzerland for a change of air, and I went to Luzern, accompanied by Miss Runkel. To travel under my real name would have been very expensive, and therefore I entered the pension Kaufman in Luzern under the assumed name of Baroness Stein. Though my health improved there I became even sadder than I had been before, and I resumed the idea of taking charge of an hospital, or if I should not find one, of going to a convent. After two months' sojourn in Luzern, I returned to Bonn. My affairs were being arranged by Baron Oppenheim, but he would and could not satisfy all the creditors, who imagined that they,, not succeeding with the Baron, could force me to pay by making my life wretched. My intention of retiring to some hospital or convent was confirmed still more ; but all my friends opposed vehemently, and I once more was induced to hope for a better time. My health becoming bad again I was sent in October, 1872, to the Lake of Geneva, where I lived in the pension Ketterer in Clarence. There I found several officers recovering from the late war, with their wives, and other ladies, and led quite a peaceful, agreeable life. There I saw Prmce Albrecht of Prussia for the last time, and became acquainted with th< Countess his wife, and her two sons. I remained in Clarence over Christmas ; but when it becaniv cold the doctors advised me to go to Italy, and I went to A tea. 371 Pisa. In the house of a Dr. Feroce I had a very large and pleasant lodging, for which I had to pay only five hundred lires for three months. Everything was cheap in proportion. From a restaurant close by, kept by the brother of our land- lord, we received two most excellent and rich meals, with wine at discretion, for three lires each a day. Though I was incognito there, a priest, who gave me lessons in Italian, had discovered who I was. • In consequence of this I became acquainted with many persons belonging to the society of Pisa, as Countess Pandulfo, Countess Samiviatelli, and other very agreeable ladies and gentlemen, with whom I passed a pleasant time. I made frequent excursions in the neighbourhood, mostly on horseback, and liked especially to ride through a deer park or the king's, where deer and boars were quite tame, browsing quietly when we passed, or looking at us fearlessly. Though I might say many things about Pisa and other places in Italy, I have to consider that this is much-trodden ground, and moreover, that my book has become more bulky already than I intended. I shall thereiore limit myself to a very rapid sketch, in order not to tire the reader. The great event oi the day was at that period the eruption o. Vesuvius, and I wanted to see it. I went therefore to Naples, where the people were in great fear, for the ashes were tailing over the city, and a fate like that of Herculaneum and Pompeii was thought possible by many. When the eruptions and the flow of lava had ceased, everybody, especially strangers, wanted to see the effects of the eruption as near as possible ; and* I went also with Miss Runkel and Jimmy, joining a large company. The guides would not permit us to go beyond a certain place, saying that a further advance was extremely dangerous. I am somewhat incredulous in respect to such assurances and curious to ascertair. vi^<:;sr truth. I therefore prevailed on two guides to go with us bt/0i5d the saiety-line. Finding, however, soon, that the thing was indeed somewhat venturesome, I insisted on Miss Runkel staying behind with Jimmy. at a certain place which I would pass on my return. The more we advanced the more interesting became om excursion, though we were compelled to jump over rather wide chasms, where one wrong step would have carried lis to OIT* 72 Ten Fears of my Life. Vulcan's workshop. My further progress was, however, brought to a sudden stop, by Jimmy arriving in a pitiful state. Miss Runkel, tired of holding the heavy dog on her arms, put him down when we were out of sight ; but Jimmy followed me, and getting on some hot lava he burned his feet. I took the poor fellow up and we returned the same way we had come — an undertaking that became unexpectedly difficult by my hav- ing to carry a heavy load in my arms. We returned, however, without accident to the place where the rest of the company had remained, and refreshed ourselves with a bottle of lacrymse Christi, regretting much that the vineyard where it had been grown was covered several feet deep with ashes, from which the tops of the vines scarcely peeped out. At a place where two roads branched off stood a statute of St. Antonio. The burning lava, which had overflown everything, stopped right before it, leaving it uninjured, which was looked upon as a miracle. The fact I have seen myself We paid also a visit to Pompeii, where we saw very strange things, bearing evidence that the people two thousand years ago were as wicked as they are now. As Murray and Baedecker are in everybody's hand, I refer to them, and save the trouble of describing imperfectly what they have described with far more art and knowledge than is at my disposal ; and as to my impressions on seeing all the Pompeiian wonders, I suppose they were the same as are experienced by most visitors who come there as ignorant as myseiU ^73 -ta,g^- CHAPTER XXIV. I want to enter a convent — Applying to the Empress — Letter of Count Armin — A card from Baron S to the German minister in Rome — In Rome — Count Brazie de St. Simon — His portrait — His mixtum compositum wine— His hobby-horse — I make an impression on the old diplomatist — Effects— Seeing San Angelo — The Prison of Ben- venuto Cellini — Causing the death of the old Count — Monsignore Merode — Two audiences with the Pope — Declares that I have no talent for a nunnery — Private mass by Monsignore Merode at the grave of San Pietro — Presents from the Pope — A once celebrated lady and pretended princess — Rev, Joseph INIulIoly — The Church uf St. Clement and its subterranean wonders — What called me home — Invitation to Rostock in Mecklenburg — In Wamemunde — Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg- -The ' Stromfahrt ' — Festival — Curious Warfare — Called home again — Bad health — In Scheveningea — An American gold uncle — Change of affairs — I buy a house in Bonn — Have rented it to Baron Gerolt — Journey to Spain — Madrid — Count W A river without water — The palace of the Duke of Ossuna — Invested by the Philistines — The picture gallery — The Arm- oury— Curious armour, &c. — The Theatres — A characteristic adventure — In the Prado — Duchess de la Torre — Serrano — Queen Isabella — Victor Amadeus — The attentate — Disturbed state — Returning to Bonn — A few last words — End of the book. I HAD not given up the idea yet of entering a convent, but my friends had so far prevailed upon me that I was in no hurry to take such a step. I had resolved to apply to tlie highest authority of our Church, His Holiness the Pope, and to do what he should order me. From Pisa I had written to Countess Schulemburg, requesting Her Majesty to give me a letter of re- commendation, which might facilitate my steps. Her gracious Majesty, complying with my request, caused Count Armin to send me such a letter, which was directed to Monsignore Merode. I had also written to Baron Oppenheim, and he sent me a o74i Ten Years of my Life. card for Count Brazier de St. Simon, the German minister in Rome, irom Baron S , one ol his triends, who had been once in the legation of the count, with whom he imagined he was on excellent terms. • When the count received this card, he said to his secretary of legation, * Heaven knows what person that teliow has thrust on me ! I shall not take any notice of her ;' and it was with some difficulty that he was prevailed on to call on me, which he did only after three days, as I had forgotten to put on my card my lodging in Rome. It was tound out, however, by an old Italian factotum of the ambassador, who was a most inter- esting, original person. .. When he called, his first question before taking a seat was, * How did you become acquainted with that fellow, princess ?' When I told him that I had never seen ' that fellow ^^ his face became friendlier ; he sat down, and I succeeded in winning the good graces of his Excellency in a most uncommon degree, which favour was further increased when we by chance came to speak about animal magnetism and similar subjects, which were his hobby-horse, and on his discovering that I was not only greatly interested in that matter but had had some practi- cal experience. Count Brazier de St. Simon w^as a little dried-up old man, with a few grey hairs and projecting cheek bones, but very quick, small, grey eyes. His clothes hung about him as ii on a scarecrow, and were always the same ; I believe he had not more than one suit, and that was a rather singular one lor an old ambassador. It vvas made of some thick English woollen stuff — for the count ielt always cold — grey with red lines, term- ing large squares. Notwithstanding this dress he looked not vulgar, but like a man ot distinction, like an old diplomast. He v/as past seventy, though he would not acknowledge his age, and when the census was taken he put himselt down ten years younger than he really was. He was very stingy, and about that many anecdotes were circulated. In his position he could not evade giving now and then a dinner ; but his dinners were dreaded on account oi 1 As the Count was a rather queer old man, I believed him prejudiced against the Baron, with whom I became acquainted much later ; but I am sorry to say that I ought to have lollowed the warning of the old minister, for I found out that he was perfectly correct in his estimation ot the Baron, Count Brazier de St. Simon. 375 his bad wines. Once, when at such a dinner he was sitting between the English and the Russian ambgissadors, he advised them not to drink the wine they had before them, but to drink with him. The other wine, though very good, he said, did not agree with him ; he called it ' mixtum compositum,' and such indeed it was. A cask, arriving from a farm he had some- where, broke, and the wine was rather spoiled, but he improved it by mixing it with some cheap Florentine wine. He was very angiy that he had to give up his fine lodgings in Florence, and to go to Rome, of which he would not see anything, though he was now and then compelled to go out with persons recommended to him. He was very lively, and his conversation was amusing, tor he was rather sarcastic and witty. I do not know by what gifts I won the tavour of this singular old man, but I cannot doubt that I made an impres- sion on him ; for he showed it in a manner which could not but convince all who were acquainted with him. He fetched me every morning in /iis carriage — a hired one, for he kept none — offered me always /lis box in the theatre — of course he had none — and gave me even nice little dinners and luncheons, to the wonder of his secretary of legation. Count W , who is by marriage connected with the Salm family, and who generally took part in our parties and excursions. The old ambassador would have liked very much to mesme- rise me, and he tried to persuade me ; but I laughed it oft. 1 owe the good old count much thanks, tor he accompanied me everywhere, and showed me all the sights ot Rome and surroundings. When he was with me in the Castle San Angelo and we had seen all the rooms, which had made him rather warm, I am sorry I insisted on his accompanying me to see the prison ot Benvenuto Cellini, lor he caught a severe cold there, Irom which he never recovered, and he died soon after my departure. The letter of Count Arnim promised me a very kind recep- tion on the part ot Monsignore Merode, the former secretary of war of the Pope, and since then cardinal. He belongs to a great Belgian tamiily, and is extremely rich. He is a man in his best years, a very portly gentleman, looking more like a disguised officer of cuirassiers than a high dignitary of the Church, of which he is, however, one of the most distinguished ornaments. o7G Ten Years of my Life. There is nothing monkish or ascetic about Monsignore Merode ; on the contrary, he has all the manners of a man of the world, and is very politq and agreeable. In his purple dress, with his large golden tross, he looked elegant and splendid. I saw him frequently, and to his kindness I owed several privileges which are not generally granted. I confided my desire to him to enter a convent, but he did not approve of it ; and his reasons had already half convinced me, when he procured me an audience with the Holy Father, which honour I had twice. The Pope had been already iniormed of my intention and person. He said he did not think I had a vocation for a nun- nery ; he advised me to reflect on it somewhat longer, and to stay at least one year more in the world, to see whether I would not change my mind. This advice oi the Holy Father was extremely kind , his clear mind anticipated what would happen ; he read my character, ior indeed I changed my mind, and before the year had passed I did not think any more of burying myself in a nunnery Monsignore Merode introduced me to a distinuished priest, who understood English, and to whom I could confess ; and after having done so Monsignore himself conferred on me the distinction oi celebrating, assisted by one priest, a private mass on the grave of the holy apostle St. Peter, that is in the little chapel, and giving me the holy sacrament. After that he pre- sented me, on the part of the Holy Father, with a splendid golden Agnus Dei, in Roman mosaic, with the inscription ' Pix tib'i' on the reverse, also with a large-sized photograph with the signature of His Holiness. Victor Emmanuel was then in Rome, and I saw him fre- quently pass ; but everybody will understand that 1 would and could not make any attempt to be introduced to his court. On the promenade I saw also an interesting personage, who had been in some connection with Victor Emmanuel, and was now the wife of a great politician. She appeared always in a grand carriage, with an immense princely crown on its panels, for she pretended to have been formerly the wife of a German prince of a well-known family, though this lormer husband had only the same name, without being a prince or having any con- nection with the family. There are, for instance, many Mr. von Salms and Mr. Salms in Germany, and it is the same with other family names. An Interesting Personage. 377 This lady, who once exerted a certain influence, ^vl^cn she was handsome, is now rather past ; but in oider to make the world believe that she is still young, she has hired or bought a baby, which is always carried after her when she descends from her carriage and makes a promenade. I sa\v her descend thus, and noticed, what I heard before, that she wore very short dresses to show her small feet, which were encased, not in boots, but in shoes with old-fashioned cross ribbands. Of this lady, her husband, and the king himself, the most amusing anecdotes are told in society ; but as such anecdotes lose much in print, I must not communicate them here. In publishing Roman experiences discretion is advisable. Amongst my clerical acquaintances, I must not forget to mention that of a most excellent and distinguished man, my confessor, the R.P.F. Joseph Mullooly, O.P.S.T.L., prior of SS. Sixte and Clement ; what the letters before and behind his name mean I do not know, I copy them from the title-page ol a work he has written about his church, the most remarkable wonders ot which he was kind enough to show and explain to me himself. The church of St. Clement is very old, and the most periect type of the old catholic basilicas ; but in 1857 was discovered under this church another much older, which on purpose had been covered with earth. In this old edifice have been found not only precious marble columns and mosaics, but most valu- able fresco pictures, dating from the third to the ninth or tenth century. It was extremely difficult to get at these valuable relics, for it had to be done without endangering the actual church. But even underneath this most ancient building have been discovered walls, which according to antiquarian researches date from the three distinct periods of heathenish Rome. The fresco pictures are highly interesting, and as their sub- terranean wonders have been accessible only since 1866, many visitors to Rome will scarcely know anything of them, and artists and antiquarians who should happen to read my book will thank me for h^rving drawn their notice to St. Clement. I had been only five weeks in Rome, where I should have liked to have stayed much longer, when a law-suit, which I mentioned before, made my personal appearance in Bonn necessary. o78 Ten \ears of my Life. I had been a short time in my house when ray dear friend Mrs. von G mvited me to stay with her some time. The Colonel, her husband, had given up his idea of leaving the army and had now a command'-in Rostock, in Mecklenburg. Whilst Miss Runkel took care of my house in Bonn I left for Rostock. When, however, after a short sojourn there. Col. von G ha.d to attend to certain military manoeuvres which would keep him from home for several weeks, we resolved to go to the watering-place of Warnemunde, on the Baltic. On my arrival in Rostock I had requested at once an audi- ence with the Grand Duchess Dowager, the sister of our Em- peror, and also called on the ladies of honour of the Grand Duchess. Whilst I was with the Grand Duchess Dowager in Heiligendamm near Rostock, the Grand l^uke and Grand Duchess, who had heard of my presence, entered the room, and I was presented to them. During my sojourn in Warnemunde occurred an annual popular festival, in which the Grand Duke and his court always take part. When their Royal Highnesses came to Warne- munde and saw me in passing by my window, they shook hands and graciously invited me to the ' Stromfahrt ' in the evening. Several hundred boats of all sizes, headed by that in which was the court, went down the Warne river, accompanied by nuisic. The boats were all decked out with flower garlands and canopies, illuminated with a great number ot Chinese lan- terns. It was a most lovely, animated scene, for amid great merriment and laughter was carried on an original warfare be- tween the crews of the different boats. At the Roman carni- val people shoot at each other with conlctti, but here they used flower boi. ^uets which before being thrown were dipped in the river. It was rather a wet game, and to protect our toilets we wore all our waterproofs. It was amusing to observe the lovely young Grand Duchess, who entered with much spirit into this sport, her whole face beaming with pleasant excite- ment, whilst throwing incessantly bouquets in all directions. The festival lasted until ten o'clock p.m., when the royal party mounted their carriages and returned to Heiligendamm. The same troublesome law-suit about the forged signature which called me back from Rome, interfered again with my plans, and on an urgent letter of my lawyer I had to return to Bonn. A Legacy. 379 I was, however, not permitted to stay at h ome yet. I felt very weak and ill. The physicians said that my whole nervous system was in disorder, and advised me to go again to the seaside, and I selected Scheveningen. There I became ^so weak that I had to be carried up and down the staircase, and had to go in a perambulator to the shore. Lt is true I had undergone many fatigues and mental anxieties, and they certainly had had an influence on my health ; but during the excitements and occupations of the war my energy had carried me through, and I might have escaped any bad consequences, it I could have had rest. More than all bodily tatigues and mental anxieties of the past years, the humiliations and mortifications to which I had been subjected since my return, in consequence of money affairs, undermined my health. Besides this, the whole position in which I was placed made me melancholy. My very limited income compelled me to restrictions which excluded me from the company to which I was used, and I thought it much easier to live in a convent than to live in the world without means. This care was, however, taken trom me in a manner which occurs more trequently in novels than in reality, but which was fortunately reality, and changed at once the aspect of afiairs and restored my health. Whilst I w^as in Schev'eningen, feeling most miserable, I received the news that a distant relative in America had left me a legacy. The exact amount ol this legacy was not stated, but a sum, which seemed to me at that time very great, was placed at my disposal. I believed it then to be all I had to receive, and was anxious to employ the money in a judicious manner, and, if possible, to acquire with it a house of my own. In this I succeeded beyond my expectation. When I rented the houce in Bonn trom Mr. Cahn, he said, in the course of conversation, that it I wanted to buy it he would let me have it tor a certain moderate sum. Since that time the price ot houses had increased considerably, and I knew that a good many thousands more than the sum mentioned by Mr. Cahn had been ofi'ered to him. I reminded him, however, of his offer ; and though it was not made in such a manner as to make any legal obligation, he was kind and honourable enough to make good his word, and I bought the house at many thousands below its actual value. o80 Ten Years of miy Life. The sum which I received was, however, not the whole legacy, but only accumulated interest, of which I was informed later. I had nearly forgotten this'old relative, whom I had seen only when I still v/as a child. I was then extremely lively and daring, and he had taken a great fancy to me. Whether he was then already rich I do not know ; but for many years I had scarcely heard of him. He had, however, learnt from the papers that I had married a prince ; had read everything writ- ten about my adventures in Mexico, etc. ; and being pleased with all this he made over to me his considerable account at his bankers, of vvhich capital the interest was to be paid to me after his death, as long as I should remain unmarried. I had let my house, furnished as it was, to Baron von Gerolt, our former minister in Washington, as I intended to travel for a long time. For this reason, and also being afraid of the winter, I resolved to go to a southern climate, and decided to visit Spain. As Miss Runkel wanted to return for a time to her family, I took with me one of my cousins, Countess Con- stantine Salm-Hoegstraeten. On our arrival in Spain the weather was very bad and unfa- vourable for travelling ; I thereiore went directly to Madrid, and alighted in the Fonda de Paris,_^where we felt rather mise- rable. My good luck would, however, have it that we met in Madrid an old acquaintance from Rome, Count W , for- merly secretary of legation there, who had been sent mean- while as charg^-daffaires to Madrid. Though he had only been a short time in the city he knew more of Spanish affairs than I did, and with his assistance we found excellent lodgings in the Casa de Nuespedes de Sefior Jose Perez, which hap- pened to be empty, and altogether at my disposition. Everything reminded me here of Cuba and of Mexico ; but I cannot say that I much enjoyed the Spanish dishes, and I was glad when we found in the excellent restaairant in the Calle Alcazar Parisian fare. Speaking of Madrid I shall follow the same plan as I did in Rome; that is, not to infringe on Murray's handbooks, especially as that about Spain, written by Mr. Richard Ford, is most excellent. ' I admired, or rather wondered at, the ugli- ness of Spanish churches in comparison with those in Italy, and at the solid bridges over an imaginary stream, the Manza- Vievj of Madrid. 381 nares. This river was so dry that the many picturesque-look- ing washerwomen could scarcely find w-ater enough in its bed for their purposes. After thunderstorms the river is said to swell within a few hours to a dangerous size, but this is, how- ever, only of very short duration. From a casa del campo in the Manzanares valley one has a beautiful view of Madrid, especially of the palace and of the artillery barracks, which acquired some notoriety on account of what happened there in the revolt. There, at the side of the monastery of St. Fernando, is also the palace of the Duke of Ossuna. 1 wanted to see it, but was refused entrance with- out tickets. These were of course easily procured, and when people heard that I was a relative of the duchess, everything was shown me most readily. It is a splendid dwelling, and I admired much the order in which it was kept by the creditors of the duke, who had taken possession of the palace. Though the duke is perhaps the richest man in Spain, his whole fortune consists in landed property ; half Andalusia be- longs to him, I believe ; but owing to the unsettled state of Spain, the fields were not tilled, and the farmers did not pay any rent. Thus it may be easily understood that the richest man in Spain was momentarily in difficulties and in the hands of his creditors. I saw, of course, all the sights of Madrid and its celebrated picture-gallery. An amiable artist, Senor de Grau, of whom I bought a fine aquarelle, was kind enough to be our cicerone. I took with me photographs of the most celebrated pictures of Titian, Velasquez, Murillo, and Ruebens, but will not describe them, because ' my paper is at an end,' and Mr. Ford has done it sufficiently. The Arraeria 1 visited also, and admired the wonderful armoury of kings and heroes. The finest armour seems to me that of Philip II., which was presented to him by the city of Pampeluna. The most wonderful is, however, that of the Elector of Saxe — I do not know which — which has ample room for a couple of Spanish nights. Astonishing to me was the armour of Christopher Columbus, w;hom I always imagined with a compass and not with a sword in his hand. He must have had not only a big head, but also an almost gigantic body, offering a rather ugly appearance. / In the cupboards are exhibited many historical curiosities, 382 len Years of my Lije. of which the authenticity is as doubtfal as of many more holy relics. There is, ior instnnce, a sword of the Cid, rather short and broad ; the sword c. Roland, etc. As very interesting, were pointed out to me t\vo oM curious shooting-irons, said to have come noni Majorca, already one hundred years before the invention o. gunpowder by Berthold Schwarz. I went also fre(]uently to the theatres, and saw at the Italian Opera-house ' Anna Bolena,' which was perJormed rather badly. Excellent, however, was the Spanish theatre, where I enjoyed many lively comedies, which I witnessed without understand ing much oi the language. Still more pleased was I with the Theatro del Principle, where historical pieces were represented most beautitully, and where I admired tha correct costumes. Whilst waiting lor the commencing at the theatre, we had a little characteristic adventure. We were sittmg down on some empty chairs, when a rather wild and suspicious-looking extremely dirty individual placed himself close before me. Robberies being by no means rare in Madrid — my purse was cut out of my dress in a church — I lelt alarmed, and so did Count W , who accompanied us. As the iellow did not moved, the count pushed him somewhat rudely back, without imagining that by doing so he would raise a storm. The in jured man made a great noise ; a crowd collected at once, and with them came some policemen. The dirty robber-like iel- low turned out to be the owner of the chairs, and came only to collect his tare. After the thing v/as explained the count offered, as a peace-ofiering, an apology in the shape of a gold coin ; but the dirty Spaniard retused it with the disdain oi a caballero, declaring himseli, however, satisfied i( the count would shake hands with him. The count would have rather parted with his goldpiece, lor the ofiered hand was shockingly dirty, but knives being very loose in Madrid he bomplied with the dirty caballero's request though he telt all the evening un- comfortable, no water being at hand. We went, ot course, frequently to the Prado, where we ad- mired the Spanish ladies m their yellow satin robes, black mantillas, and big fans. . I, of course, bought at once such a mantilla and a fan, and as my complexion is somewhat Spanish, I flatter myself thlt I looked much J ike a native. In the Prado I saw Irequently a very c/iic coupe, with a lady dressed elegandy in the Paiisian style. She was the Duchess ae la Torre, the wife of Marshal Serrano — a great man now. Duchess de la Torre, 383 NotAvithstanding her mode of life, the Queen was very popular with the loyal Spaniards, who used to say, whatever she may do at home, t,when she puts on her gloves, she is every inch a queen. Serrano was hated, tor he treated the Queen, to whom he owed everything, shamefully. The measure was full at last ; he fell into disgrace. The Queen said to him : ' I have made you a general ; I have made you a marquis ; I have made you a duke, — but I never could make you a gentleman.' That he certainly was not, and never will be, whatever may be his titles or his politics. He now became hostile to the Queen, causing infamous newspaper articles to be written, and declaring himself in some public degree, that she was a queen oi whom wives and daughters of Spaniards must be ashamed. But who made her what she was? After Prim's death Serrano turned radical. He offended the Queen of Amadeus in the most insulting manner by for- bidding his wife to be godmother to one ot her children. We have not yet seen the end of Serrano. May he meet his deserts ! Being a woman, I must not defend Queen Isabella ; though I may venture to say that she deserves more compassion than the contempt and ridicule with which she has been t^-eated. Kings like her, even if not better princes, a^e judged very leniently, but queens with morbid passions are forgiven only if great as sovereigns. I also saw frequently King Victor Amadeus, either on horse- back or in his carriage, driving himself He is a thin, insig- nificant-looking man, much too simple in his habits to win the love of the Spaniards, who have no sympathy with citizen kings. He was almost always seen together with his queen, who is a very virtuous woman and good wife, and who was more popular than Victor Amadeus. The King was, however, a man of pluck, and showed it ar the great attempt against him. The history of this attempt is still a mystery. I saw the narrow street in which it took place, and it is difficult to understand how the bullets could have missed him. Still more difficult is it to explain why the police did not take any measures to prevent such a crime, as it was prepared without much secrecy and evidently expected by the police, for the governor of the city followed the carriage of the 38 4< Ten Years oj my Life. King in a fiacre about a hundred paces behind it. The leader of the conspirators was killed on the spot but — it seems purposely — was so disfigured that he could not be recognized. Other persons arrested escaped from prison, and thus the prophecy was fulfilled that the attempted regicides would never be punished. It had been my intention to travel in Andalusia, to make re- searches in reierence to relatives of my mother, but things in Spain took a turn which made travelling in the country very inconvenient and even dangerous, and under these circum- stances I resolved to give up my purpose and to return home. My task is done ; my book at last finished. When occupied with writing it, and absorbed in my recollections of the past, all I have told seemed very interesting — to me : whether it be interesting to the public, or whether I should have done bet- ter to leave my book unpublishd, is a question which now suddenly oppresses me in an uncomtortable manner. I suppose I must take my chance, like greater authors, and^ prepare myseli against some critics, who will say, with a shrug of their shoulders, * American, Mexican, and French wars ! AVhy, that's ancient history ; we are tired ot it. Why did she not write the history of next year ?' I most humbly beg to remark that I do not pretend to write his- tory at all ; but only my personal adventures during three great wars, in which I by chance had to take part. I would not have ventured to write a book at all, had not some men, whom I believe to be competent, encouraged me, saying that the narratives of personal adventures of eyewitnesses, if told simply and truthfully, are much valued, because they serve to fill up with fl^h and give colour and life to the skejeton-like dry histories presented to us so frequently by most learned military authors or professors of history. What I experienced and saw during these ten eventful years I have described simply and truthfully, expressing my opinions perhaps with too little reserve ; whether they are worth any- thing is a question which will be ansv/ered by others, and I have only to excuse myself for speaking too much of private affairs, which have really nothing to do with the great histori- cal events which form the frame of my narrative. If I have Conclusion. 385 failed in this respect I have no other excuse than that I have acted, as it were, in self-defence. Some persons, taking ad- vantage of my unprotected position, have amused themselves with commenting on my doings, or not doings, throwing out hints and suggestions which might create prejudicial opinions about me in persons whose judgment is not indifferent to me. To set them right I had to make known some facts which I otherwise might have withheld. If these facts are not always agreeable to the persons concerned, I cannot help it ; every- one has first to look out for himself. I am not a person to suffer in silence. In taking leave of the kind readers who may perhaps be in- terested in my fortunes, I beg to say that I have at last found that rest lor which I longed so much. I have a home with which I am perfectly satisfied, am independent m every re- spect, and have some true friends who know and love me • more I do not desire. THE END. ^^' (■'' ^i. / f DATE DUE 1 .A*» FE ,B 2 2 2 JUO /•; W '- 'i^i- >< /, *'^ ^". •> ft GAYLORD PRINTED IN U.S.A. 923a35 S2 ^9.^UMi ~x \ ) / .m.»i>- G rtr^ u t^^n^