OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. ••< But of all the calonies of Eiigla:id, the most singular and the most suc- cessful is the Colony established in New South Vv^ales. — Formed by none of the impulses which had hitherto urged men to take the chances of the wilder- ness ; formed at the greatest distance from home ever attempted by civilization — in fact, the greatest possible distance, the Antipodes ; formt d of the most intractable materials, — tiie colony of Australia, within half the life of man, has risen to a pitch of commerce, agricultural opulence, and population, never be- fore equalled iu the most fortunate or costly settlements of national fortune and enterprise. Why is this ? May we not naturally ask, v>iiy has the new Continent, given exclusively into the hands of England, exhibited the extra- ordinary spectacle of a n.ew shape of dominion i " Raised out of the refuse and rejected material of the mother country- whatever may have been the purpose, the result is clear, that a great experi- ment in the faculty of renovation in the human character has found its field in the solitudes of this vast continent; that the experiment has succeeded to a most unexampled and unexpected degree ; and that the question is now finally decided between severity and discipline. If this were the intent of Provi- dence, in making over to England the inheritance of New South Wales, it would be only one of the crowd of instances which display the unwearied watchfulness of Heaven for the welfare of man. When the time shall arrive in which tlie philosopher shall be able to regard the results, free from the detail which now diminishes their real grandeur ; when half a century more shall show him the noble proportions of a new Empire ruling the Southeru Ocean, filled with the free spirit and strong energies of Britain — covering the waters so long lifeless with her commerce — acting like a new minister of life, along those boundless and most fertile shores, which spread from India to Japan — shooting the moral electricity in shocks that only reanimate, and sparks that only enlighten, through the whole stagnant and fettered, yet most lovely zone of the East, — then first shall he be able to comprehend either the nobleness of the task achieved, or the beneficence of that Power which, controlling all things, gave to our remote island the duty, the means, and the honour of this great triumph of good over evil. We admit that all has not yet been completed, that there are many things in the execution to excite the displeasure of the fastidious, and not a few to puzzle the sagacity of the sapient. We expect that those who pride themselves on the exclusive possession of philosophy, will be indignant. We admit, also, that tiie manners of convicts and their attendant turnkeys can hav^e but little of the picturesque, and less of the sentimental. But the main fact is unquestionable, that out of those convicts has been formed a powerful, active, and opulent community. What could have been done at home with the multitude who have been, in succession, transported to Australia, if they had remained in England? Pos- sibly, not one in fifty would have ever thought of anything but picking pockets or robbing on the highway ; one half of them would have perished iu prison, or of famine and disease, in their own hovels ; one quarter at least would have been hanged. But, by the fortunate, we might almost say, the mira- culous, expedient of providing them with a coimtr3% where the}' might begin the world anew, where they might live without the stigma of their former life, and recommence their character — -where, being saved from the desperate difficulties of providing themselves with food, they might feel some human enjoyment in the beauties of nature ; being protected from disgrace for the past, they might exert themselves to provide a character for the future ; and, being placed in the hope of possessing property and providing for their ofl- spring, they might become alike industrious and domestic, decent and happy, or in some rarer instances, opulent and honourable, — the greatest example of rapid colonial prosperity in hjj^man records has been exhibited to the eyes of mankind. ^ 9" 2- ^ * ''- * * * * * * The kind of " gelitlemen who sit at home at ease," surrounded by the labours of water companies, and companies of all kinds, and having light, watching, and cool streets at command, on the simple terms of paying a few shillings, yet are peevish at the state of society, and praise the times ' When wild in woods the noble savage ran,' — ought to make a voyage to New South Wales, and a summer's journey through it, with the sun in the vertex, if it were only for the purpose of reconciling themselves to England, and the misfortune of liaving in it every thing that man can devise. They should follow this gallant soldier, man of science, and man of accomi)lishment, across the fiery sands of the Australian wilderness, and record their experience for the benefit of all the discontented." — Black- nood's Edinburgh Magazine, No. CCLXXVll. Nov. 1838. " The plans and drawings with which these volumes abound have been faith- fully lithographed after drawings by Major Mitchell, who remains in England to complete those plans of the Fields of Rattle in the Peninsula, which he had commenced under the discriminating auspices of Sir George Murray, then Quarter-Master General, who, with an undiminished desire to benefit the ser- vice and the public by their completion, avails himself of Major Mitchell's presence in England for the accomplishment of that object. "Amongst his illustrations. Major Mitchell has given the first specimen of a plan of ground worked from the model by the auaglyptograph, a recent invention by Mr. Bates, skilfully carried into execution by Mr. Freebairn. Major Mitchell, we have reason to know, has been for some time occupied on a Map of the Pyrenees, upon this new principle which is expected to produce a superior effect in plan drawing." — United Service Journal, No. ex VI II. Sept. 1838. "A new country has thus been added to the map of Australia, and a survey of five hundred miles, in its extreme breadth, has been eflected of the regions in the immediate neighbourhood of New South Wales. Major Mitchell's journals were written from day to daj% under circumstances by no means favourable to the task of composition : they are, therefore, somewhat careless in style, and occasionally obscure, but pregnant with interesting facts that possess the striking advantage of being altogether new. Such narratives would be in some measure spoiled by a scrupulous taste ; the business of the expedition was discovery, and the more simply and truthfully discoveries are set forth the better. The paramount quality desired in such publications is accuracy in the details ; and unquestionably, if we take into consideration the difficulties attending such an enterprise, the accuracy and minuteness of Major Mitchell's details cannot fail to surprise and gratify the. public. He not only found time— as well as constancy of resolution — to keep liis notes with regularity, but to perform the practical and laborious duties of a difficult survey, and to make drawings of some of the scenes through which he passed, animated occasionally by groups of their savage denizens. These little sketches greatly enhance tiie utility as well as the pleasurable impres- sions of his work." — Monthly Chronicle, OcXoher 1838. " Altogether the work, containing the results and descriptions of the 'Three Expeditions,' is one of uncommon importance aiul value, while it is full of ex- traordinary interest, taking scenery, incidents, and man into account, — the convict character being among the author's most striking developments. Plates and plans clearly illustrate many passages." — Montlihj lievicw, No. il. October. Vol. III. \hoH. "We never read a work with more delight than the two volumes before us; they contain a mass of the most pleasing information, of the greatest interest to all parlies. The illustrations, which amount to ninetif, are exquisitely beautiful, and we do not hesitate in puijlicly stating fluit Major Mitchell must stand alone in the exploring world." — Blackwood's Lady's Magazine, Nov. *' Major Mitchell, whose services in the Peninsular war are sufficiently known to the public, from his high talent and perstvcring character, was deemed peculiarly fitted for the laborious and dangerous duties imposed upon him ; and those who read the result of his labours, and the miraculous escapes, " by flood and field," lu; has successfully combated, in an unexplored country, amidst savage tribi-s, will readily admit that the confidence reposed in him has been fully justified. There is throughout his work no attcmi)t at ellVct or exaggeration ; every line carries with it fhe conviction of truth ; ami, from the plain and unvarnished n)anncr in wliicli he drscribes his discoveries and adventures, the reader may almost suppose himself a participator in his perils. His ])rofessional experience has enabled liini to clotlie Iiis descri|!tions in language at once intelligible and conclusive, and as his narrative is written in the form of a journal, the occurrences of each day beino- committed to paper on the same night, the facts follow in natural and consecutive order. There is this peculiar advantage connected with the work too, which must give it a preference over all others by which it has been preceded — namely, that Major Mitchell possesses the fortunate talent of being his own artist, surveyor meteorologist, and engraver. He has not had to trust to others for em- bodying his ideas in a graphic form, but has made his own sketches of scenery as well as of the natives, individually and collectively, of the extra- ordinary accuracy of which Ave have had t!ie willing testimony of gentlemen long resident in the Colony, and fully acquainted with the peculiarities of the savage tribes by which it is inhabited — the splendour of its scenery, and the varied eccentricities, if we may be allowed tlie phrase, of its surface and climate — here rich and luxurious, there sterile and repulsive." — Bell's Life in London, 1st Sept. 1838. " We have here a work worth hundreds of the volumes of those tradino- tourists who travel for the purpose of book-making. A great variety of illus- trations are interspersed throughout the work. On his arrival in England, Colonel Mitchell received the assistance of several eminent scientific men, in the classification of his natural history specimens ; his book has, therefore, been rendered as complete as such a work could possibly be." — United Ser- vice Gazette, 8th Sept. 1838. " It will not be expected of us that we enter into a minute examination of tliese important volumes. To do so fairly and fully, as regards any half- dozen chapters of them, would make a demand on our space which would preclude that attention to variety which is necessary to this department of our Journal. We shall, therefore, only add, on this point, that the details and descriptions of each of the three expeditions are given in the natural and most available, as well as the most trustworthy form, a journal written at the time and place referred to; thus insuring to the narrative a specific truth which can be obtained by no other means, and at the same time investing it with a consecutive interest which laughs to scorn the puerile and feeble fictions which so enervate and vulgarise the literary taste of the day. " In conclusion, we have no hesitation in pronouncing these volumes of Major Mitchell, on Australia, to be at once by far the most important and the most interesting that have yet appeared, in connection with this most im- portant and interesting of all existing fields for emigration ; nor can it be doubted that their publication will speedily lead to the most valuable results, no less in a political than a social point of view." — jSaval and Blilitary Gazette, 8th Sept. 1838. " In novelty and variety of scenery, character, and incident, these volumes recall the idea of the older travellers, before travelling became a mode of varying amusement — an excursion for the listless, the vacant, and the igno- rant. With an interest that reminds us of the reading of other days, we follow Major Mitchell and his band of convict explorers through tlie pathless wilds of Australia, partaking of their hopes of discovery ; sympathizing with their toils, their hardships, their short commons, and, more terrible, their severe thirst in some of those arid wastes ; listening with curiosity, though with a more discriminating attention than of yore, to strange descriptions of savage life and savage men, and their fruitless efforts to check the progress of civilization ; whilst, scattered thi'oughout the volumes, we meet incidental sketches of colonial life, and gain glimpses of convict character. Their generic character is discoieri/ — discovery not more important as an augmen- tation of knowledge, than as having a direct bearing upon human affairs. The subjects upon Avhich our author's enterprise has thrown a new light, are zoology, botany, geology, geography, and man. * * * * * " Tiiough several topics remain untouched, we must close here ; remarking, that the work is illustrated with a variety of plates, cuts, and plans, which, like the text, and indeed, the idea and coniluct of the expeditions, display the accomplished and practical surveyor." — Spectator, 8th Sept. 1838. "Major Mifcliell's work on the survej' of interior Australia is the most im- (lortant in reference to that country that has issued from the press. It i» copiously embellislied with well-executed lithographic plates and maps." — Morning Heicihl, 12th Sept. " The three expeditions comprised in these volumes, may he briefly described; but the interest of the details accumulated by jNIajor Mitchell can be appreciated only by an attentive perusal of the work itself. The vast tracts of country that had remained unexplored in Australia previously to these enterprises — a country, as Major Mitchell observes, which is yet in the same state as when it was formed by its Maker — presented a large field for scientific inqiiirj'. The ability, perseverance, and zeal of Major Mitchell, whose toils, dangers, and privations were of the most trying kind, eminently justify the choice of such a man for a service of so much peril and importance. ***** There is no attempt at fine writing throughout these valuable pages. Tlie descriptions are all simple, brief, and unembellished. But the matter con- tained in the volumes is fnll of interest, of a kind, too, so close and multi- farious, that we could not hope to do justice to it by extracts. The scientific details are also of considerable utility, and have been arranged with great care by some distinguished friends, to whose assistance tlie author bears testimony in his preface. A variety of lithographs of scenes taken on the spot, diagrams, and plates illustrative of differeiit features of natural history, increase the value of the work, which is one of the most amusing, as well as instructive, books that has been issued for many seasons from our prolific press." — Atlas, loth Sept. " The return home was scarcely less fruitful in interesting discoveries, topographical, geological, and botanical, than the journey out; especiallj' the route from the Murrumbidgee. At page 320 of this volume we have ii most striking portrait of Moyengully, King of Nattai, and a formidable looking gentleman he is. Judging from this and numerous other sketches distributed throughout the work. Major Mitchell miist be a first-rate artist. Most of the the engravings, and they are very numerous, are not only interest- ing in subject, but both drawn and executed in a splendid and artist-like manner." — United Service Gazette, 15th Sept. 1838. " The rapidly increasing importance of our Australian colonies renders these volumes a valuable acquisition. They contain a great variety of parti- culars respecting a country which yet remains, in most part, a terra incofj- nita, and an aboriginal people who are still in a state of nature; and the minute detail of the progress of an expedition which explored vast territories never before trodden by whiteraen, are highly interesting." — Literary Gazette, loth Sept. 1838. " The expedition lost an able assistant in the botanical department by the death of Mr. Cunningham, who, having unfortunately parted from his companions, was unable to regain their track, while they unsuccessfully endeavoured to ])ursue his footmarks, and, after wandering some days, during wliich his sufferings from thirst, hunger, and fatigue, must have been great, he was unhappily killed by some natives with whom he had intended to pass the niglit. ^lajor Mitchell, nevertheless, has collected in his travels twenty-eight new genera of plants, and he met with some very rare trees, ])articularly one bearing yellow flowers, of which it appears only one spe- cimen was observed. " There are many very judicious remarks on the location of settlers and tlie formation of villages, which it would be very advisable to attend to. Some dilliculty now occurs in the opposition which is given to the direction of roads though private property; but the obvious utility of good lines of conununication must eventually impress individuals with the proi)riefy of yielding their private claims for the ad\aiiccment of the public good." — Literary Gazette, 22nd Sept. 1838. " We seek a shore which few before have ever dared to scan, An Eden where all things are fair, except the heart of man ; \\'here flowers and skies in mingled dyes of horrow'd lustre shine. But alas! whose sun hath given none to make the soul divine. " One great and honourable distinction of the present age is the universal and ardent thirst for the acquisition of knowledge with regard to all those matters by which the welfare and happiness of the great family of mankind may be enhanced. One great utilitarian feeling seems to have taken posses- sion of the minds of men, so that in all their pursuits some end should appear to be necessary, by the attainment of which the condition of the generality should be ameliorated or advanced. " Such an end is the object of all those who, in this age of miracles, seek, by the paths of science, the difficult heights of distinction or of profit. For this the chemist resolves nature back into her simple elements, or wins grand secrets from her hidden combinations. For this the engineer lays down his iron road, with a lofty scorn of hill and dale, which enables man to emulate the eagle in the rapidity and directness of his flight. For this the astronomer pores through his midnight glass, and the political economist dives beneath the surface of things, to survey the causes of social misery or content. All have one great and ennobling anxiety, a wish to add sometliing to that general sum of happiness of which God lias made his creatures susceptible below. " But of all the labourers in the vineyard of knowledge, who is there who claims so much of our sympathy, who is more disinterested, or more deserv- ing of honour, than the traveller who explores, for the first time, regions where nature has held sway, from the creation of the world until now ? Tiie services performed, the discoveries made by an individual like this may seem small in comparison with the mighty wonders which science is every day achieving before our eyes ; but if deserting the present we look to the future, how tremendous maj' be the result of one man's enterprize and perseverance. "The traveller is the pioneer of civilization, as John the Baptist preceded our Saviour, to make tlie rough places plain, and tlie crooked straight, in order to pave the way for that new dispensation of wliich he was the herald, even so does the traveller prepare the way and smooth the path for the intro- duction of the same Christianity, wliose office hath always been to humanize and soften, and whose influence is necessary to reunite the savage wanderers of tlie wilderness to the great brotherhood of humanity. " What a tremendous era in the history of the world was the discovery of America ! Fraught with what incalculable results to the destiny of millions. But it was the work of one inspired man, and the like results are not to be expected now. Though the reaper has done his work, yet there is ample employment for the gleaner : and if it should seem insignificant in compa- rison with the great event of which we have spoken, it is not the less deserv- ing of that honour that awaits all who strive to eflfect the greatest degree of good which Providence has placed within their reach. " Such is the author of the volumes now before us, and considering the universal attention which anything connected with Australia excites in the mind of all thinking persons, nothing could be more opportune than the appearance of a survey like the present, which leaving civilization far behind it, has penetrated into those interior regions, where a white man's foot had never before trod, in order to furnish data for the guidance of progressive culture and improvement. " Within the memory of man a British colony has risen in Australia, says our Author, to a high degree of prosperity, and it seems impossible to doubt, that at no distant period, the whole territory will be inhabited by a power- ful people, speaking the English language, diffusing around them English civilization and arts, and exercising a predominant influence over Eastern Asia, and the numerous and extensive islands in that quarter of the globe. " Nations, like individuals, have their growth, their perfection, and their decay; like them, too, they have their children, and, perhaps, the time maybe when England's name shall have fallen into oblivion in this quarter of the world, only to be perpetuated in those hereditary titles which she has bestowed upon her distant offspring. " The wilds and uninhabited tracts, whose dreary expanse is now traversed by the patient foot of the explorer, will then have borrowed new features 6 from the hand of industry and cultivation. The temporary huts of each migratory tribe will be replaced by cities, resembling those of the old world. Man and nature will be no more at war with one another, and Heaven, per- chance, will look down smilingly on a new world, which has been re-created from its worse than nothingness. And who is the precursor and primary cause of these^anticipated blessings, if it be not tlie traveller — like him of whose work we are about to speak?" — Torch, 22nd Sept, 1838. " No one can peruse Major Mitchell's Narrative of the three long and often perilous journeys now before us, without acknowledging, that he possesses all those requisites wiiich, in enterprises like the present, if they are not able to command success, are at least certain to deserve it : and, in addition to the usual and inseparable obstacles which beset the ordinary traveller's path in regions as wild as these, we must admit, that his was attended by many novel and unforeseen circumstances, which rendered it one of no ordinary difficulty and trial. "In the first place, if we consider that the majority of his companions were convicts, men who, although their offences might not have been of a heinous nature, were, nevertheless, outcasts from society and exiles from their native land ; and who must naturally, from contact with more hardened ofl'enders, have imbibed something of their recklessness and impatience of restraint — it will be sufficiently evident that it required no ordinary exertion of patience and firmness, of judgment, and of temper, to make such heteroge- neous materials unite together for the attainment of the one object in view, and to quell within their bosoms the dormant spirit of insubordination, which might once more have awakened, when they found themselves far from the haunts of civilized men, remote from those scenes which had been the wit- nesses of their degradation, and, knowing that it required only an exertion of the will to cast away tlie chains which society had put upon them, and pay back its scorn by abjuring the lessons which it taught, and mating them- selves with the untutored savage of the wilderness. " But the possibility of such an occurrence was foreseen and wisely provided for. The persons to accompany tlie expedition were selected from the better classes of convicts. They were chiefly men whose oifences partook more of misfortune than of guilt ; of those who had given way to the impulse of some casual temptation, rather than those whose feelings had been indu- rated by a long apprenticeship to crime. They were all actuated by one prevailing wish to regain, in some measure, the station which they had lost, and to earn a partial remission of former oifences by redoubled zeal and ac- tivity in the employment which they were permitted to share. And it is gra- tifying to know, that during the three different expeditions on Avhich tliey were employed, altiiougli many circumstances of temptation and discourage- ment intervened, not a single instance of misbehaviour occurred sufficient to call down the serious displeasure of their leader, or to forbid the exercise of that clemency on the part of the government, to merit which had been the aim of all. " And is it not to be hoped that a system which has produced, in the in- stances before us, such beneficial results, will be persevered in, and that man will for the future grant to his erring fellow man the same pri\ilege which God has extended to himself — the privilege of repentance and forgiveness. How many a heart is hardened, and made the abode of darkest passions and despairing guilt, simply because no path was left by which the spirit could retrace its steps, and wander back from the darkness of this world's con- demnation into the daylight of its forgiveness and love. How often has the hasfy fiat of a mortal and fallil)le tribunal been the precursor and the type of tiiat more terrible, but not more irrevocable, doom, which awaits the guilty in an after slate, and which would not, perhaps, have been incurred, had society tempered mercy witii her justice, and been ready to welcome back to her bosom those erring children, of whom her severity has made outcasts and aliens for ever ! Let us hope then for the future, even to the unrighteous, there may arise a light in the darkness, remembering that He is merciful, loving, anil righteous, and that man, however lost he may be, is never so irretrievably and finally losl, as when the light of hope, which should have guided hin) back 1o the paths of rectitude is extinguished, and he feels that he is abandoned l)y his kind. 7 " Among the nuraernus subjects of self-eongratulatiou which Mr. Mitchell has amassed, tliis surely will not be tlie least, that he has put it in the power of many, who lay under the world's ban, to vindicate themselves in a great measure, to reverse the sentence which had been passed upon them, and begin in a far land a new^ life, when the memory of past errors would not be suffered to interfere with their after progress in the work of reparation and amendment. But we must not any longer detain our readers from the nar- rative itself, which will be found to be fully equal in interest to any record of the same kind whicli the proverbial enterprise of our countrymen has added to the literature of the world. * * * » " We must now take our leave of this at once highly interesting and in- structive work. We have already said and quoted more than sufficient to in- spire our readers with a wish to make themselves acqviainted with the whole of its contents, and we think that no one could rise from its perusal without advantage to himself, whatever his habits or occupation might chance to be. " The lover of science will find ample employment for thought ; the natu- ralist will read with delight the discoveries of new wonders in creation; and the philosopher will pore with delight over a newly opened page in the great history of man. The utilitarian will revel in anticipations of a world as yet unborn, and to that hope of the future the poet will bring a saddened recol- lection of the past. And with a holier, purer, feeling than any, the Christian will look forward to that peaceful empire which religion exercises in the hearts of men, and which shall teach the reclaimed native to kneel at the same altar witli himself. Each will derive his own peculiar gratification from the work before us, and many are yet unborn who shall, perchance, in a far land, bless the spirit of enterprise which led the wanderers' feet into the wil- dernesses of Australia. " In conclusion, we must not omit to mention the beautiful manner in which it has been produced by the publishers. The word sumptuous is the only one which would adequately express our ideas of its appearance. Each remarkable scene and group, each hill and dale, birds, beasts, flowers, and shrubs, have all been sketched by the masterly hand of Major Mitchell, whose freedom of pencilling has been ably transferred to the stone by Barnard. The various beauties of the stream named after our colonial minister, and numerous other wild, yet delicious scenes, are placed before us in the reality which art can lend to its creations. These illustrations amount to the numlier of ninety in the two volumes. Even in this age of tjpographical splendour, it is one of the most complete and perfect gems which has fallen from the press within our recollection." — Torch, 29th Sept. 1838. " These are altogether the best volumes which have yet appeared on the subject of the interior of Austi-alia. That singular country, he* etofore de- scribed either as a waste of waters or as a parched desert, is here deline- ated with comprehensive truth and vividness : and while new regions of boundless extent and great promise are revealed to our sight, the intelligence of our guide gives, even to those over which we have often travelled, the charm of novelty. As a leader of exploring parties through unknown regions. Major Mitchell appears to us to stand unrivalled. Prudent and decisive, he advances like an experienced general ; executing in a prompt and unflinching- manner all that he may attempt, yet never for a moment losing sight of the limits of his resources. " One of Major Mitchell's chief merits, is, that he is a vigilant observer : he prys into the rocks and the soil — he examines the woods — tastes the grasses — and some of his minor discoveries, made in this way, are extremely interesting." — Athenceum, 29th Sept. 1838. " The services rendered to geographical science by the author of these volumes are of a very high order. He probably has done more towards advancing the progress of discovery in the interior of Australia than all pre- vious travellers ; but still our knowledge of the interior of this continent is extremely limited, and does not extend to one-seventh of its surface. * * « » * * " After the extracts that we have given from these volumes, it is almost a work of supererogation to advert to the opinion we entertain of their merit. It would be slight praise to say that we know few books of travels surpassing them in interest, and which furnish at every page proof of the high capa- bilities of Major Mitchell for the arduous duty which he was selected to undertake. We have chiefly referred to the progress that was made in dis- covery in the interior, but every chapter abounds with interesting anecdotes illustrative of the manners of the natives. In addition to these the scientfio information is of the most valuable kind, more especially that having refe- rence to the geological character of the country. At the end of the second volume a chapter is devoted to an account of a cave in Wellington valley, in which a great number of fossil remains were discovered embedded in breccia, whose generic characters have been determined by Professor Owen. Major Mitchell in the course of his travels discovered several new animals, espe- cially one which he named the chasropus ecaudatus, and he also met with the jerboa for the first time in Australia. A great variety of new plants were discovered, which have been classed by Professor Lindley. " We shall only add, that these volumes are illustrated by a great number and variety of plates, which are executed with great taste, and in a manner far superior to those generally accompanying books of travels. Among others, there is an entirely new adaptation to map engraving in a plan of the lakes in the neighbourhood of Mount Arapiles. The ground is marked in a similar manner to that recently used in engravings from medals, with the view of shewing the inequality of the ground." — Morning Chronicle, 5th Oct. 1838. " The total wildness of the vast regions traversed by Major Mitchell, the dangerous character of many of the savage tribes by whom the country is thinly peopled, the great personal hardships endured, particularly from want of water, and the romance inseparable from all such expeditions, give an interest to these volumes, altogether over and above the value which they bear as an accession to our geographical knowledge. We do not ])ropose to give an outline of any of the tliree expeditions, which we fear would only weary, without either entertaining or informing, the reader. Our friends will probably feel more obliged to us for the following abridge- ment of a part of the second expedition, relating to the unfortunate fate of Mr. Richard Cunningham, the botanist of the party. « » * « » " T?ichard Cunningham must be added to the list of those talented and ad- venturous sons of Britain who have fallen victims to their zeal for the progress of scientific knowledge. The book which records his fate, we again cordially recommend to the reading world." — Chambers' Edinburgh Journal, 6t!i Oct. 18:38. " As we have already expressed decidedly, though briefly, our appro- bation of Major Mitchell's volumes, we shall not now enter into a detailed repetition of their merits. We cannot, however, pass in silence over the Major's indefatigable activity in ascending every eminence, taking angles, and reconnoitring the country; nor the systematic firmness and resolution with which he forced his way through all the diilicuUies ojjposed to him by the nature of the ground. He is evidently one who makes light of physical hardships ; and the alacrity with which he was obeyed shows that he knew how to inspire his followers with the same soldier-like feeling. Of the imjjortance of his discoveries, it is impossible to entertain a doubt. It was a fortunate and judicious determination on his part, to quit the deserts and seek the continuation of tlie south-eastern mountain chains ; lie has thus found a country of running waters and ])erpetu;il verdure. Nor will it be long- before these discoveries are taken advantage of; the energy and enterprise of the British in Australia rival the bold spirit of the Far West. Already there is a .post established I)etween the new town of Melbourne, in Port Phillip, and SyA\ TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LOED GLENELG, HER majesty's PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES, &C. &C. &C. THIS WORK IS WITH PERMISSION e^s BY HIS lordship's VERY OBEDIENT >■ DC -c g| AND MOST HUMBLE SERVANT, ^ T. L. MITCHELL. in CM H Z IS X A ^ ^^'P4Q a PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The following Journals were written at the close of many a laborious day, when the energies both of mind and body were almost exhausted by long continued toil. The author trusts that this circumstance will account for, and palliate, some of the defects which may be discovered in his volumes. Conscious as he is of the deficiencies of his work, he never- theless hopes that the reader will not pronounce it to be wholly devoid of interest. Though Australia calls up no historical recollections, no classical associations of ideas, it has other, and not less valid titles to our attention. It is a new and vast country, over the largest portion of which a veil of mystery still hangs ; many of its productions vary in a singular manner, from those in other parts of the world ; within the memory of man one British colony has risen there, in spite of adverse circumstances, to a high degree of prospe- rity ; others have been founded, which promise to be equally successful ; and it seems impossible to doubt that, at no distant period, the whole territory will be inhabited by a powerful people, speaking the English language, diffusing around them English civilization and arts, and exercising a predominant influence ever eastern Asia, and the numerous and extensive islands in that quarter of the globe. In his expeditions into the interior of Australia, the author was led cheerfully on, by an eager curiosity to examine a country Avhich is yet in the same state as when it was formed by its Maker. With respect to the narrative of those expe- ditions, the sole merit which he claims is that of having faithfully described what he attentively observed ; neither IV PREFACE. his pencil nor his pen has been allowed to pass the bounds of truth. There is, however, one branch of his subject on which justice and gratitude render it necessary for him to say some- thing more. In those departments of natural history, to which he owns himself a stranger, he has received assistance of the utmost value from several distinguished persons. To the few plants which, after his unfortunate fellow traveller had sacrificed his life to the pursuit, the writer was able to collect, a permanent place in the botanic system has been given by Dr. Lindley. Much importance has been added to the work, by the researches and discoveries which Pro- fessor Owen has made, with regard to the fossil remains ; and the few particulars gleaned relative to existing animals have enabled Mr. Ooilbv to introduce several interestinsr novelties to the attention of zoologists. To these gentlemen, and also to Professor Faraday, IVIr. MacLeay, and other scientific friends, the warmest acknowledgments of the writer are due, for whatever naturalists may deem worthy of praise in these pages. The aid thus liberally afforded, acting in unison with a feeling that, as the surveys were undertaken by order of Government, it is his duty to lay the result of them early before the public, has encouraged the author to persevere steadily in bringing out these volumes ; though he must candidly own that, but for these considerations, he would rather have delayed the performance of this task till he had completed another,* of a national character, which, con- nected as it is with the days of his early service in the cause of his country, may naturally be supposed to have stronger and more attractive claims upon him, August 18, 1838. * Plans of tlie Fields of Battle in tlie Peninsula. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE KINDUR, IN 1831-2. CHAPTER I. Page A Bushranger's story — My plan of exploration — Preparations — De- parture from Sydney — A garden — Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbury — Beyond the Hawkesbury — Summit of Warrawolong — Natives of Brisbane Water — The Wollorabi — Valley of the Hunter — Fossils of the Hunter — IMen employed on the expedition — Equipment — Burning grass — Aborigines and Colonists — " Cambo," a wild native — A Colonist of the right sort — Escape of the Bushranger, " the Barber" — Burning Hill of " Wingen" — Approach Liverpool Range — Cross it — A sick tribe — Interior waters — Liverpool Plains— Proposed route — Horses astray — A Squatter — Native guide and his gin — Modes of drinking au naturel — Woods on fire — Cross the Turi Range — Arrive on the River Peel — Fishes — Another native guide — Explore the Peel . 1 CHAPTER II. Enter an unexplored region — Situation of Mr. Oxley's camp on the Peel — Westward course of the river — Kangaroo shot — Calcareous rocks — Acacia pendula first seen — Other trees near the liver — Junction of the Peel and Muluerindie — View from Perimbungay — Ford of Wallanburra — Plains of Mulluba — View from Mount Ydirc' — Hills seen agree with the bushranger's account — The river " Nammoy'' — Stock-yard of the bushranger — Singular fish — View from Tangulda — Cutting through a thick scrub — Want of water — Impeded by a lofty range of mountains — Marks of natives' feet — Maule's rivei* — A grilled snake — View on as- cending the range of Nundawar — Native female — Proposed excursion with pack-horses — Native guide absconds — The range impassable^ Return to Tangulda — Prepare to launch the boats on the Nammoy 36 vi CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER III. Page Fires in the Bush — Rocks of Bullabalakit — Boat launched — Bees load my rifle with honey — Embark on the Nammoy in canvass boats — Impedi- ments to the navigation — Boat staked, and sinks — The leak patched — She again runs foul of a log — Provisions damaged — Resolve to proceed by land — Pack up the boats, and continue the journey — Pass the western extremity of Nundawar Range — Unknown tree — Water scarce — Provi- dential supply — Cray-fish- -Trap-hill on plains — Cut through a scrub — Meet a tribe of Natives — Again obliged to cut our way — Fortunate dis- covery of water — Dry vallies— Mount Frazer — The party in distress for want of water — Water found next day — Ducks — Wheel Ponds — Exces- sive heat and drought — Description of the woods — Meet with natives — Cross the dry bed of a river — A friendly native with his family — No water— Reach the Gwydir — Cross it with one man — Prevented by a native with spears, from shooting a kangaroo — Re-cross the river . 53 CHAPTER IV. Change the route to trace the course of the Gwydir — A native village of bowers —Effect of sudden moisture on the wheels — Tortuous course of the Gwydir — Lines of irrigation across the plains — Heavy rain — Crested pigeon — The party impeded by the soft state of the surface — Lagoons near the river —Excursion nortliward — Reach a bi'oad sheet of water — Position of the party — The common course of the river, and the situa- tion of the range considered — Nondescrijit tree and fruit — Plains of rich soil, beautifully wooded — Small branches of the Gwydir — Much frequented by the natives— Laughable interview of Dawkins with a tribe — Again reach the Gwydir — A new cucumber — Cross the river and pro- ceed northward — A night without water — Man lost — Continue north- ward— Water discovered by my horse — Native wears for catching fish — Arrive at a large and rapid river — Send back for the party on the Gwydir — Abundance of tlireo kinds of fish — Preparations for crossing the river — Natives approach in the niglit — View from one tree fastened to another — Mr. White arrives with the party and lost man— detained by natives— Mr. White crosses the river — Marks of floods on trees — Man lost in the woods — Natives' method of fishing — Native dog— Mr. White's account of the river . . . . .70 CHAPTER V. Excursion down the Karaula — Its unexpected course — Formidable insects — Junction of tlie Gwydir — Owls and Rats — Natives at the camp during my absence — Tiicir attom])ts to steal — Native dogs — Tents struck to cross — Arrival of Mr. Finch — Murder of his men — Loss of his liorses — and seizure of his stores by the natives — Destroy the boat and retire CONTENTS OF VOL. I. vJi Page from the Karaula — Forced march to the Gwydir — Numerous tribes sur- rosnd the party— Good eifects of sky-rockets — Funeral dirge by a native female — Dog killed by a snake — Numerous tribes follow— The party regains the plains . . . . 103 CHAPTER VI. Proposed movements— Hot wind— Heavy rains set in— Country impas- sable for several days— Excursion to the plundered camp of Mr. Finch — Recover the cart and trmiks— Bury the bodies — Columns of smoke — Signals of the natives — Courage and humanity of one of the men — Homeward journey continued — Difficult travelling — Civility of the tribe first met — Mosquitoes troublesome— Regain the Nammoy — Ascend Mount Warroga — Re-cross the Peel — Conclusion . .123 .Meteorological Journal kept during the Expedition to the North-west, and commenced on crossing Liverpool Range, Dec 1, 1831 . 142 Tiii CONTENTS OF VOL. I. EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING, IN 1835. CHAPTER I. Page Supposed course of the Darling — Mr. Dixon's survey of the Bogan — Expedition postponed — Description of the boat carriage — Number and description of the party — Expedition leaves Paramatta — My departure from Sydney — Western part of Cumberland — County of Cook — The Blue Mountains — Weatherboard Inn — Mounts Hay and Tomah — River Grose — Early attempts to trace it upwards — Intended Tunnel — Pass of Mount Victoria— Advantages of convict labour — Country of Mulgoey — Emu plains — Township — General arrangement of towns and villages^ — The mountain road — Vale of Clywd — Village reserve — Granite formation — Farmer's Creek — River Cox and intended bridge — Mount Walker — Solitary Creek — Honeysuckle Hill — Stony Range — Plains of Bathurst — The town — Inconvenience of want of arrangement in early colonization — Small Farmers — Intended Bridge — Departure from Bathurst — Charley Booth — Road to Buree — Canobolas — Arrival at the camp of the party 147 CHAPTER II. Ascend the Canobolas — Choose the direction of my route — Ascend the hill north of Buree — Encamp on the Mundadgery — Cross a granitic range — King's Creek — Cross Hervey's range — First view of the interior- Parched state of the interior country — The dogs kill a kangaroo — Steep descent to the westward — Search for water by moonlight — Encamp with- out any— Follow a valley downwards and find water — Lifeless appear- ance of the vallies — Luxury of possessing water after long privation — Ascend Mount Juson with Mr. Cunningham — Enter tlie valley of the Goobang — Meet the natives — Social encampment — Mount Laidlcy — Springs on the surface of the plains under Crokcr's range — Cross Goo- bang Creek — The dogs kill three large kangaroos — ^^■ild honey brought by the natives- -Arrive at " Tandogo" — Allan's water of Oxlcy — Advan- tage of aboriginal names on maps — Excursion with Mr. Cunningham — Effects of a hurricane in the forest — f^ncamp without water — Natives leave the party — Cattle distressed for want of water — Mr. Cunningham missing — Desperate search for water — At length find water on reaching by night the river Bogan— Encamp on this river . . 164 CONTENTS OF VOL. I. ix Page CHAPTER III. Search for Mr. Cunningham— No traces to be seen— Supposed to liave met with an accident— Souter and Murray sent back along the track — My search S. S. W. 40 miles— Interview with two natives— Range of porphyry — Mr. Cunningham's track found— Mr. Larmer and a party sent to trace it — Mr. Cunningham's track followed for 70 miles, his horse found dead— His own footsteps traced— Mr. Larmer meets a tribe— The footsteps traced into the channel of the Bogan — Death of the Kangaroo — Reflections— Five natives brought to me with a silk handkerchief in their possession — Their names — The party halt at Cudduldury — Inter- view with the King of the Bogan — Muirhead and Whiting sent to examine the dry channel of the river — Search extended to the plains of the Lachlan — Camp of Natives — Pass the night in a hollow without water — View towards Mount Granard — A second night without water — Awoke by the forest on fire — Interview with three natives — Roots of trees sucked by the natives — Horses reach the camp with great diffi- culty— Part of Mr. Cunningham's coat found . . 180 CHAPTER IV. Continue along the Bogan, guided by the natives — Their caution in ap- proaching the haunts of others — Their accurate knowledge of localities — Introduced to the Bungan tribe — Superiority of the King how dis- played— Dangerous mistake — A true savage — The king of the Bogan takes his leave — Kangaroos numerous — Beauty of the shrubs — Danger- ous consequence of surprising a native — Wounded native led to our camp — His confidence gained by kind treatment — Oxley's Table-land — Mr. Larmer's excursion to it — Narrow escape from the loss of the cattle — The party followed by a clamorous tribe — A parley — Their various complexions — Decorous behaviour— Naked plains — A native visitor — Soft earth of the plains — Ride to the Darling — Tlie water sweet — The party encamps on a favourable position on the river . 201 CHAPTER V. Rain at last — Stockade erected — Named Fort Bourke— Visited by the natives — Mortality among them from small-pox — Results of the journey — Friendly disposition of a native— Boats launched — Presents to natives — They become importunate— We leave the depot and embark in the boats — Slow progress down the river — Return to the depot — Natives in canoes — Excursion with a party on horseback — A perfumed vegetable — Interview with natives — Present them with tomahawks — Unsuccessful search for Mr. Hume's marked tree — Ascend D'Urban's group — Promis- ing viewto the southward — A burnt scrub full of spinous dead boughs — A 1 A X CONTENTS OF VOL. I. Page uight without water — Return to the camp — The party proceeds down the Darling — Surprise a party of natives — New acacia — Mr. Hume's treefound — Fall in the Darling — Surprised by a party of natives — Emu killed by the dogs — Duulop's range — ileet the Puppy tribe — Ascend Dunlop's range — High land discovered to the westward — Grass pulled and piled in ricks by the natives — Hills beyond the Darling — Convenient refraction — Native huts — Interview with the Red tribe — The Puppy tribe — How to avoid the sandy hills and soft plains — MaccuUoch's range — Visit a hill beyond the Darling — View from its summit. . . 217 CHAPTER VI. Natives of the Spitting tribe — Singular behaviour on the discharge of a ])istol — Conjectures — Second interview with the Spitting tribe — Strange ceremonial— Amusing attempts to steal, or diamond cut diamond — Dry channel of a stream — Tombs on the sand hills — White balls on tombs — Australian shamrock — Old canoe — Dry state of the country — Danger and difficulty of watching the cattle on the river banks — Uniform cha- racter of the Darling— The Grenadier bird — The " Doctor" and the na- tives— A range discovered by refraction — Dance of natives — A lake — Tombs of a tribe — Plan of natives' hut — Method of making cordage — The tall native's first visit — Channel of a small stream — The carts beset on the journey by very covetous natives — Mischievous signals — Cattle worn out — The tall man again — Approach of the Fishing tribe — Covet- ous old man — Conduct on witnessing the cfiect of a shot— Tlie party obliged to halt from the weak state of the cattle — The natives very troublesome — Singular ceremonies — Ichthyophagi — Their manner of fishing — The burning brand — A tribe from the south-east — The old man appears again with a tribe from the sotith-west — Small streams from the west — Tlie Darling turns southward — Resolve to return — De- scription of the country on the banks of the river — The men at the river obliged to fire upon the natives — Steady conduct of the party — Origin of the dispute — Narrow escape of Muirhead — Treacherous con- duct of the aborigines — Melancholy reflections . . 245 CHAPTER VII. Commencement of the homeward journey— The cattle begin to fail — Halt and endeavour to lighten the carts — Rain comes on — Native conversa- tions at a distance — Party separated to watch the cattle — Illness of some of the men from scurvy — Mr. Larincr's excursion into tlic country to the eastward- -Tlie Spitting tribe again — Return of Mr. Larmer, who had found water and iniiabitiints — A day's halt — Ride to Greenough's CONTENTS OF VOL. I. xi Page group — View from the summit — Barter with natives beyond the Darling — The Red tribe again — New species of caper eaten by the natives — Importunity of the Red tribe — Cross tlie Darling — View from the summit of Mount Macpherson — Rain again threatens — Absence of kangaroos and emus on the Darling — The Occa tribe again — Hints to Australian sportsmen — Meet the Fort Bourke tribe — Mr. Hume's tree — Return to Fort Bourke — Description of that position— Saltness of the Darling — The plains — The rivers supported by springs — Traces of floods — Extent of the basin of this river — Its breadth — Surface of the plains — Geology of the Darling — Woods — Gum acacia abundant — Grasses — General cha- racter of the natives — Their means of existence — Nets used by them — Superstitions — Condition of the females — Singular habits of a r.at — Security of a species of ants — Birds — Fishes — Apprehended scarcity of water on leaving the Darling — Six of the cattle dead from exhaustion — Rest of two days at Fort Bourke — Visited by the Fort Bourke tribe . 276 CHAPTER VIII. The party leaves the Darling — Natives approach the camp during the night — Scared by a rocket — Discovery of a Caper-tree — The kangaroos and emus driven away by the natives — Difference between the plains of the Darling and Bogan — Extreme illness of one of the party — New Year's range — A thunder-storm — Three natives remind us of the man wounded — Another man of the party taken ill — Acacia pendula — Beauty of the scenery — Mr. Larmer traces Duck Creek up to the Macquarie — A hot wind — " Talambe " of the Bogan Tribe — Tombs of Milmeridien — Another bullock fails — Natives troublesome — Successful chase of four kangaroos — Natives of the Bogan come up — Water scarce — Two red- painted natives — Uncertainty of Mr. Cunningham's fate — Mr. Larmer overtakes the party — Result of his survey — Send off a courier to Sydney — Marks of Mr. Dixon— Tandogo Creek and magnificent pine forest — Hervey's range in sight — Improved appearance of the country — Meet the natives who first accompanied us — Arrive at a cattle station — Learn that Mr. Cunningham had been killed by natives — Cookopie ponds — Goobang Creek — Character of the river Bogan — Native inhabitants on its banks — Their mode of fishing — Manners and customs — Prepare to quit the party — The boats — Plan of encampment — Mount Juson — Leave the party and mark a new line of ascent to Hervey's range — Get upon a road — Arrive at Buree . . . . .312 Barometrical Journal kept during the Journey iuto the interior of New South Wales in winter 1835 . . ... 343 Range of the Thermometer and Journal of the \Voathcr . . 345 A 2 xii CONTENTS OF VOL. I. APPENDIX. Page No. I. Letter from Captain Fovbes, 39th Foot, Commandant of the Mounted Police ...... 351 No. II. Report from Lieutenant Zoucli, Mounted Police, respecting the death of Mr. Cimniughara ... . . 3o2 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. Portrait of Cambo, an aboriginal native. (PI. 1, see page 20.) Frontispiece Temporary gunya or hut, set up for passing a night in the bush. Title Vignette Fossil shells of the Hunter. Megadesmus globosus. (PI. 2.) Toyace page 14 Megadesmus antiquatus, M. Icevis and 31. cuneatus. (PL 3.) . 15 Isocardial Trochus oculus. Littorlna {or Tia-bo ?) Jilosa, from Peel's River. (PI. 4.) . . . 16 Burning hill of Wingen. (PI. o.) . . . 23 Mount Murulla, and part of Liverpool Range, from Wingen . 25 Kangaroo as seen in the long grass . . 37 Cod-perch, or Gristes Peelii, 2nd. Eel-fish, or Plotosus Tandanus. (PI. 6.) ... 44 A snake, as cooked on the fire by the natives . " .47 View of Nundawar range, where the party could not cross it. (PI. 7.) 48 The pic of Tangulda, from the west. (PI. 8.) . . 51 Nundawar range from the w-est, 3rd January . . 62 A crow during extreme drought . . 67 Nundawar range from the north-west, 12th January . . 79 Nondescript fruit from Snodgrass Lagoon . . 82 The Bidyan ruffe, or Cer?«?/« i?i%rt»«. (PI. 9.) 95 Sketch explanatory of a useful principle in exploration . 107 Courada, a remarkable hill, as it appears from the north 140 Boat-carriage used in the two last expeditions . 149 Inaccessible valley of the river Grose. (PI. 10.) . 154 Map of Mr. Cunningham's track when lost in the woods. (PI. 11.) 1^8 First meeting with the chief of the Bogan tribe. (PI. 12.) . 194 Portrait of a native of the Bogan. (PI. 13.) . . 204 Oxley's Table-land from the north-west . . .213 D'Urbau's Group from the west . . . 228 Dance of natives on first hearing the report of a pistol. (PI. 14.) 248 Natives robbing the blacksmith, while the old men chaunted a hymn or song. (PI. 15.; . . . 250 Balls, and casts of the head in lime, found on tombs . . 253 A native's hut — plan of roof . ... 2G2 xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page Tombs of a tribe, after some great mortality, probably from a disease re- sembling small-jiox. (PI. IG.) . . 262 Display of determined hostility by messengers from a tribe. (PI. 17.) 2G9 View on the river Darling, near Camp, 9th Aug. 1835. (PI. 18.) 297 Portrait of a young native (" Talambe") with the Acacia pendula and scenery of the plains near the river Bogan. (PI. 19.) . 318 Burying-ground of Milmeridien, and scenery of the close scrubs. (PI. 20.) 321 Portraits of two natives — an old and a young man at the same fire, shewing the submissive manner of the latter. (PI. 21.) . 322 Plan of encampment in the interior . . . 339 Young weeping eucalyptus, from nature . . 342 General Jlap of the exploratory routes, with sections of the rivers, and a plan of the mouth of the river Glenelg ; the whole being compiled by the author from actual surveys made under his own direction, or by himself . . . . 348 VOL. II. Crater of Murroa, or Mount Napier, in Australia Felix, (described at p. 254.) PI. 22, Frontispiece Corrobory-dance of the natives, as described in pages 4 and 5 Title Vignette Mount Melville (of Oxley), from Merumbk . . page 16 Mount Cunningham, or Beery Birree . . 17 Nyororong from Mount Cunningham . . . 18 Oxlfiy's tree on the Lachlan (or Kalare) river . . 19 Cockatoo of the interior — Plijctolophus Leadbeateri. (PI. 23.) 47 Portraitsof TuriVudurey (the female guide), and her child Ballandella, with the scenery on the Lachlan (10th of May 1836). (PI. 24.) 69 Plan of an inliabited tomb . . .71 Piper watching the carts at Benanee. (PI. 25.) . . 92 A new shi-ub, the Eucarya Murrayana and young fruit 100 The river Murray, and dispersion of natives, 27th May, 1836. (PI. 26.) 104 Chceropus ccaudatus (Ogilby), a new and singular animal. (Plate 27.) 131 Back-water, or flood-branch of the Murray, with the scenery common on its banks. (PI. 28.) . . .133 JJipns Mitchellii (Oyilby), a new animal resembling the Jerboa. (PI. 29.) 144 Mount Hope from the north . . 155 Pyramid Hill . . . 1.09 The river Yarraync, witli the sheep of the party first approaching it. (PI. 30.) 160 Plan of temporary bridge across the Yarrayne . 161 Mitre rock and lake from Mount Arai)ilcs. (PI. 31.) . 189 Plan of hills beside Grecnhill Lake (engraved from a model.) (PI. 32.) 190 Mount Arapilos from Mitre Lake . • 191 Western txticiiiity of .Mount .\rapileti. (PI. 33.) . , 192 Barbed Hpcurs uf the natives . . 194 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xv Page Female and child of Australia Felix. (PI. 34.) . . 212 Boat on the Glenelg. (PI. 35.) . . . 225 Yellow flower abundant on the plains of A ustralia Felix . 255 General view over the Grampians from the summit of Mount Abrupt 258 Mount Abrupt from the south . . . 261 Portrait of an Eagle that had been winged (natural size). (PI. 30.) 264 Mount William from Mount Stavely . . 207 Weapons of the natives • . . 269 Hills of lava, or mammeloid hills, from Moimt Greenock . 276 Port Phillip, 50 miles distant, as seeu through a glass from Mt. Maeedon 284 Cobaw waterfall, with natives fishing (PI. 37.) . . 286 General view of the sandstone districts, from the summit of Jellore. (PI. 38.) . . . .323 Portrait of Moyengully, chief of NattaL (PI. 39.) . 323 Map of Eastern Australia, and natural limits of the Colony of New South Wales. (PI. 40.) . . . .333 The bommereng, a singular missile . . 348 Narrow shield, or hieleman . . • 349 Scenery around the entrance of the largest cavern in the limestone at Wellington Valley. (PI. 41.) . . • • 353 Geological map of Wellington Valley. (PI. 42.) . . 359 Interior of the largest cavern. (PL 43.) . • 300 Vertical section and ground-plot of two caverns. (PL 44.) . 361 Interior of the cavern containing osseous breccia. (PL 45.) . 302 Rock of breccia found on the surface above the largest cavern. (PL 46.) 304 Fossil remains and recent specimens, each of the natural size : Fig. 1, be- longing to Macropus Atlas, and fig. 2, to the largest recent specimen : Figures 3, 4, and 5, to Macropus Titan : Fig. 6, the incisor of a fossil kangaroo : Fig. 7, the incisor of the largest now known : Fig. 8, Fossil lumbar vertebra. (PL 47.) . . 300 Fossil remains of a new species of Hypsiprymnus, figures 1, 2, and 3 ; of Plmscolomys Mitchellii, figures 4, 5, and 6 : figure 7 being a sec- tion of the teeth of the same fossil species of wombat. (PL 48.) 368 Fossil remains of the Diprotodon, figures 1 and 2 ; and of the Dasyurus laniarius, figures 3, 4, 5, 0, and 7. (PL 49.) . . 309 INIarks of subsidence in an inner portion of the breccia cavern. (PL 50.) 370 Fossil remains of the radius and ulna of a kangaroo, fig. 1 : of the foot of a dasyurus, fig. 2 : Various teeth of animals unknown are shewn in figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11: all these drawings being of the natural size. Tlie two figures, 12 and 13, represent, on a reduced scale, the large bone which M. Cuvier supposed to have belonged to a young elephant. (PI. 51.) . • • 372 Rocks in Bass's Straits— 1. The Pyramid : 2. A rock of gvauite . 375 .-y SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF ANIMALS. COLLECTED DURING THE SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS, AND DEPOSITED IN THE AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM AT SYDNEY MAMMALS. 1. Rhinolophus Megaphyllus. Gray. 2. Petaurus Leucogaster. Mitch. (New Species.) From the banks of the Murray. 3. Phalangista Xanthopus, Ogilby. From Bi fie range, near the Glenelg. i. ChcEropus ecaudatus. Ogilby. (New Species.) Vol. ii. page 131. Froin forest near the Murray. 5. Myrmecobius 1 rufus. Mitch. (New Species.)* 6. Dipus Mitchellii. Ogilby. (New Species. ) Vol. ii. page 144. From reedy plains, near the Murray. 7. Conilurus constructor. Ogilby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 308. From the scrubs near the Darling. The rabbit-rat of the colonists. 8. Mus Platuvus. Mitch, (New Species.) From the river Darling. 9. Mus Hovellii. Mitch. (New Species.) Frorn near the Bayunga, and named in honour of the discoverer of that river. BIRDS. 1. Falcunculus Leucogaster? aut Frontalis? Black-crested shrike, from the banks of the Murray. 2. Falcunculus Flavigulusl Broion-crested shrike, from the Loioer Began. 3. Cracticus tibicen. Vieill. 4. Fregillus leucopterus. Vig. §• Horsf. 5. Merops Melanurus. Vig. §• Horsf. 6. Pomatorhinus temporalis. Horsf. 7. Malurus leucopterus. Vig. §- Horsf. * This was called the " red shrew mouse" by the men composing- the party, but as no species of the Insectivora of Zoologists has hitherto been discovered in Austrcilia, it more probably belongs to the genus Myrmccobiii!*, recently described by Mr. Waterhouse. I venture to name this animal with considerable hesitation, having neglected to take a note of the generic clia- racters, while the specimen was yet within my reach. If it be a true Sorex, its discovery will be as interesting to Zoologists as that of the Dipus, neither genus having been hitherto suspected to exist in Australia. xviii LIST OF ANIMALS. 8. Fringilla castanotis. 9. Musicapa Goodenovii. Vig. §• Horsf. 1 0. Anthus rufescens. Vig. §• Horsf, 11. PlyctolophusLeadbeateri. Vig. PI. 23. Vol. il. p. 47. 12. Plyctolophus Eos. Temm. 13. Platj'cercus flaviventur. Vig. ^- Horsf: 14. Platycercus multicolor. Vig. S; Horsf . 16. Platycercus Bernardi. Vig. S; Horsf. I G. Platycercus liEematogaster. Goidd. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 238. 17. N anodes discolor. Vig. Sf Horsf. 15. Nanodes venustus. Vig. ^- Horsf. 19. Nanodes Bourkii. Mitch. (New Species.) From Bogan river. 20. Nanodes. 21. Nanodes haematonotis. (New Species.) 22. Meliphaga chrysotis. Leicin. 23. Meliphaga leucotis. 24. Meliphaga penicillata. Gould. '25. Columba spilanota. SpeckledDove from Fort Bourke. 2G. Columba lophotes ? Temm. (New Species.) 27. Columba marmorata. Mitch. (New Species'!) The Freckled Dove, Fort Bourke. 28. Casuarius Novae Hollandiaj. Latb. 29. Tringa. 30. Vanellus. Large Plover from near Buree. 31. Cygnus atratus. Froin the Glenelg. 32. Anas cyanea. Mitch. (New Species.) From Lake Stapylton. 33. Aquilla fucosa. From the Murrumbidgee. FISHES. 1. Acernia (Ccruua) Bidyana. Mitch, (New Species.) Vol. i, p. 9,3. 2. Acernia (Gristes) Peelii. Mitch. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 95. 3. Plotosus Tandanus. Mitch. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 95. 4. Truncatella filosa. Sowerby. (New Sp. ol" univalve from Mitre lake.) Vol. ii. p. 191. INSECTS. 1. Cancriform Epeira. Vol. i. p. 88. 2. Stilbum. Vol. i. p. 97. 3. Ikinbecidaj. Vol. i. p. 98. 4. Scutcllera corallifera. \'ol. i. p. 98. 5. Abispa Australiana. (New Sj)ecics .') Vol. i. p. 104. G. Giyllutulpu Aubtrulis. Vol. i. \t. 120. LIST OF ANIMALS. xix FOSSIL ANIMALS, Discovered in the Caves of Wellington Valley and Buree. MAMMALS. 1. Dasyurus laniarius. Owen. (Extinct Species.) 2. Plialangista. (Undetermined Species.) 3. Hypsiprjmnus. (Undetermined Species.) 4. Macropus Atlas. Owen. (Extinct Species.) 5. Macropus Titan. Owen. (Extinct Species. ) 6. Macropus. (Undetermined Species.) 7. Halmaturus. (Undetermined Species.) 8. Phascolomys Mitchellii. Owen. (Extinct Species?) 9. Diprotodon optatum. Owen. (Extinct Genus.) FOSSIL SHELLS — from the basin of the Hunter, &c. 1. Turbo filosa. Sowerby. (New Species.) VoLi. p. 15. 2. Trochus oculus. Sowerby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 15. 3. Isocardia — ? Sowerby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 15. 4. Megadesraus globosus. Sowerby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 15. 5. Megadesmusantiquatus. Sowerby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 15. 6. Megadesmus laevis. Soioerby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 15. 7. Megadesmuscuneatus. Soioerby. (New Species.) Vol. i. p. 15. A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF SEVENTY-SEVEN NEW PLANTS DESCRIBED IN THIS WORK. DILLENIACE^. Pleurandra incajia, vol. 2. p. luG. PITTOSPORACEiE. Campylanthera ericoides, vol. 2. p. 277. TREMANDRACE^. 'J'etratheca ciliata, vol. 2. 7?. 206. MYRTACE.E. Bacckia era ssi folia, vol. 2. p. llo. alpina, vol. 2 p. 178. calycina, vol. 2. p. 190. Eucalyptus alpina, vol. 2. p. 175. Genetyllis alpcstris, vol. 2. p. 178. LORANTHACE^. Loranthus Quanilang, vol. 2. p. 09. CAPPARIDACE^. Capparis Mitchellii, vol. 1. p. 315. VIOLACE.E. Pigea floribunda, vol. 2. p. 1G5. MALVACE^. Ilybiscus tiidactylitcs, vol. I. p. 85. Sida corrugata, vol. 2. p. 13. fibulifera, vol. 2. p. 45. EUPIIORHIACE^. Gyiostemon pungcns, vol. 2. ]), 121 . UIIAMNACEiE. Cryplaiidrutomcntosa, vol. 2. p. 178. RUTACEiE. Correa Icucoclada, vol. 2. p. 39. cordifolia, vol. 2. p. 233. glabra, vol. 2. p. 48. rotundifolia, vol. 2. p. 219. Eriostemon pungeiis, vol. 2. p. 1-'>G. Phebalium bilobum, vol. 2. p. 178. Didymeria CEmula, vol. 2. p. 198. ZYGOPHYLLACE^. Ropera aurantiaca, vol. 2. p. 70. GERANIACE^. Pelargonium Rodneyanum, vol. 2. p. 144. LEGUMINOSiE pai'ilio- NACE/E. Trigonellasuavissinia, vol. 1. p. 2.55. Psoralea patens, vol. 2. p. 8. tcnax, vol. 2. p. 10. rinorca, vol. 2. p. 05. ludigofera acantliocarpa, vol. 2. p. 17. Davicsia pcctinata, voL 2. p. 151. brevifulia, vol. 2. j). 201. Pultciiaia niontana, vol. 2. p. 178. mollis, vol. 2. p. 200. 13o8sia'arosmariiiifolia,ro/. 2.;>.178. Dillwyiiiii liis]iiila, vol. 2. p. 251. LIST OF NEW PLANTS. XXI LEGUMINOSiE C.^salpinie^. Cassia teretifolia, i-ol. l.p. 289. heteroloba, vol. 2. p. 1 22. LEGUMINOS.E mimose^. Acacia leucophylla, vol. 2. p. 13. salicina, vol. 2. p. 20. ■ sclerophylla, vol. 2. p. 139. • aspera, idem. farinosa, wZ. 2. p. 146. ■ ■ strigosa, vol. 2. p. 185. exudans, vol. 2, p. 214. furcifera, vol. 2. p. 267. acinacea, vol. 2. p. 267. AMARANTHACE^. Trichinium alopecuroideum, vol.2, p. 1 3. ' parviflorum, idem. sessilifollum,rWe?«. " nobile, vol. 2. p. 22. lanatum.roZ. 2.2^. 123. CHENOPODIACE^. Atriplex halimoides, vol. I. p. 285. Sclerolsena bicornis, vol. 2. jj. 47. SANTALACE^. ? Eucarya Murrayana, vol. 2. p. 100 Fusanus acuminatus, vol, 2. p. 69. PROTEACEiE. Grevillea Aquifolium, vol.2. p. 178. variabilis, vol. 2. p. 179. -iilpina, idem. EPACRIDACEiE. Leucopogon cordifolius, vol. 2. p. 122. glacialis, vol. 2. p. 175. rufus, vol. 2.p. 179. Epacris tomentosa, vol, 2. p. 177. CAPRIFOLIACEiE. Tripetelus australasicus, vol. 2. ]). 14. SOLANACE^. Solanura esuriale, vol. 2. p. 43. ferocissimum, roZ. 2. p. 68. CICHORACE.E. Picris barbarorum, vol. 2. p. 149. AMARYLLIDACE^. Calostemma candidinn, vol. 1 . p. 54. vol. 2. p. 30. carneum, vol. 2. p. 39. LILIACE.E. Bulbine suavis, vol. 2. p. 272. JUNCACE^. Xerotes typhina, vol. 2. p. 41. ■ effusa, vol. 2. p. 101. GRAMINACE.E. Panicum IfEvinode, vol. l.p. 238. Danthouia lappacea, vol. l.p. 313. • pectinata, vol. 2. p. 26. eriantha, vol. 2. p. 307. Elensine marginata, t'oi. l.p. 319. liecetith/ published. By the Author, A MAP OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES, Compiled from actual Measurements with the Chain and Circumferenter, and according to a Trigonometrical Survey. IN THREE SHEETS. Price, coloured, £1. 10s. %* The above, with the two origuial maps in tliis work, mny be liad, mounted and folded to fit one case, for £1. lOs. SoM by T. cV- W. Boone, New Bond Street. JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE RIVER KINDUR, IN 1831-2. JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE KINDUR, IN 1831-2. CHAPTER I. A Bushranger's story — My plan of exploration— Preparations — Departure from Sydney— A garden— Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbui^— beyond the Hawkesbury— Summit of Warrawolong — Natives of Brisbane Water— The Wollombi— Valley of the Hunter — Fossils of the Hunter- Men employed on the expedition — Equipment — Burning grass — Aborigines and Colonists — " Cambo," a wild native— A Colonist of the right sort — Escape of the Bushranger, "the Barber" — Burning hill of "Wingen" — Approach Liverpool Range— Cross it — A sick tribe — Interior waters — Liverpool Plains — Proposed route — Horses astray— A squatter — Native guide and his gin— Modes of drinking au naturel — Woods on fire— Cross the Turi Range — Arrive on the River Peel — Fishes — Another native guide — Explore the Peel. The journey northward in 1831, originated in one of those fabulous tales, which occasionally become current in the colony of New South Wales, respecting the interior country, still unexplored. A runaway convict, named George Clarke, alias " the Barber," had, for a length of time, escaped the vigilance ot the police, by disguising himself as an aboriginal native. He had even accustomed himself to the wretched life of that unfortunate race of men; he was deeply scarified like them, and naked and painted black, he went about with a tribe, being usually attended by two aboriginal females, and having acquired some knowledge of their language and customs. But this degenerate " white man" was not content with the solitary freedom of the savage life, and his escape from a state of servitude. He had assumed the cloke and colour 1 B 2 bushranger's story. [cir. i. of the savage, that he might, approach the dwellings of the colonists, and steal with less danger of detection. In con- junction with the simple aborigines whom he misled, and with several othei" I'unaway convicts, he had organized a system of cattle stealing, which was coming into extensive operation on Liverpool plains, when, through the aid of some of the natives, who have in general assisted the detection of bushrangers, he was at length discovered and captured by (he police. After this man was taken into custody, he gave a circum- stantial detail of his travels to the north-west, along the bank of a large river, named, as he said, the " Kindur ;" by follow- ing which in a south-west direction, he had twice reached the sea shore. He described the tribes inhabiting; the banks of the " Kindur," and gave the nances of their chiefs. He said that he had first crossed vast plains named "Balyran," and, on approaching the sea, he had seen a burning mountain named " Courada." He described, with great apparent accuracy, the courses of the known streams of the northern interior, which united, as he stated, in the " Nammoy,'" a river first mentioned by him ; and, according to his testi- mony. Peel's river entered the " Nammoy," by flowing- westward from where Mr. Oxlcy had crossed it. Now this was contrary to the course assigned to the Peel in the maps by early travellers, but consistent, nevertheless, with more recent surveys. Vague accounts of "a great river beyond Liverpool plains," flowing north-w^est, were current, about the time General Darling embarked for England. The attention of the acting governor. Colonel Lindesay, was particularly drawn to the question by this rcjwrt of Clarke, and also by the subsequent proposals of various persons, to conduct any expedition sent in search of the "great river." Tiiorc are few undertakings more attractive to the vota- ries of fame or lovers of adventure, than the exploration of unknown regions; but Sir Patrick Lindesay, with due regard to the responsibility whicii )iiy oflice seemed to impose upon CII. I.] PLAN* OF EXPLORATION. 3 me, as successor to Mr. Oxley, at once accepted my proffered services to conduct a party into the interior. The principal object of my plan was the exploration of Australia, so that whether the report of the river proved true or false, the results of the expedition would be, at least, useful, in affording so much additional information ; equally important geographically, whether positive or negative. After I had surveyed extensive tracts of territory, I never could separate the question respecting the course of any river, from that of the situation of the hig-her land necessarv to furnish its sources and confine its basin. I could not entertain the idea of a river distinct from these conditions, so necessary to the existence of one — and it appeared to me that if a large river flowed to the north-west of any point north of Liverpool plains — its sources could only be sought for in the Coast Range in the opposite direction ; or to the eastward of these plains. Various rivers were known to arise on that side of the Coast Range; the streams from Liverpool plains flowing- northward ; the Peel, the Gwydii-, and the Dumaresq, arising in the Coast Range, and falling, as had been repre- sented, to the north-westward. I proposed, therefore, to proceed northward, or to pursue such a direction as well as the nature of the country permitted, so that I might arrive, on the most northern of these streams, and then, keeping in view whatever high land might be visible near its northern banks, to trace the river's course downwards, and thus to arrive at the "large river," or common channel of all these waters. The second condition necessary to the existence of a river, namely, the higher land enclosing its basin, might, in this case, have been either Arbuthnot's Range, or that between the Darling and the Lachlan ; and this seemed to me to involve a question of at least equal importance to that of the river itself, for, had the fall of all the waters above mentioned, been to the north-west, it was obvious that such a range B 2 4 PREPARATION FOR THE JOURNEY. [CH. I. must have been the dividing ridge or spine connecting the eastern and western parts of Australia, and which, when once investigated was likely to be the key to the discovery of all the rivers on each side, and to the other subordinate features of this ""reat island. Thus, the most direct and practical plan for seeking the river, was perfectly consistent with my views of general exploration. In the selection of men to compose an exploring party, and in collecting the articles of equipment, provisions, and means of transport, my department afforded various facili- ties. This aid was the more necessary in my case, because the other duties of my office, prevented me from devoting much attention personally, to the preparations for such a journey. From the known level character of the interior, I con- sidered that the light drays or carts used by the surveyors miglit easily pass, and I, therefore, preferred them to pack horses, being also a more convenient means of conveyance ; I availed myself likewise of such men, carts, bullocks, and horses, as were disposable in the survey department at the time. The new Governor was expected in the course of a few months, and I was, therefore, desirous to set out as soon as possible, that I might return before his arrival. After several weeks of anxious preparation, 1 had the sa- tisfaction to find that every contingency was, as far as pos- sible, provided for in my department. Each oflicer, whether employed in the survey of the different parts of the colony, or the measurement of farms, was also fully instructed re- specting his duties during my contemplated absence. In the correspondence with the office at Sydney, which amounted amniallv to about 2000 letters, none remained unanswered ; and my last cares were to leave, in the hands of an engraver, a map of the colony, that the past labours of the department might be permanently secured to the public, whatever might be our fate in the interior. Little time remained for me to look at the sextants, theo- CH. I.] DEPARrURE FROM SYDNEY. 5 dolite, and other instruments necessary for the exploratory journey ; I collected in haste a few articles of personal equipment, and having as well as I could, under the circum- stances, set my house in order, I hade adieu to my family, and left Sydney at noon, on Thursday, the 24th day of No- vemher, 1831, being accompanied for some miles by my friend Colonel Snodgrass. It was not until then, that my mind was sufficiently re- lieved from considering the details of my department, to enable me to direct my thoughts to the undiscovered country. I had yet to traverse 300 miles, for to that distance from Sydney the flocks of the colonists extended, before I could reach the vast untrodden soil, the exploration of which was the object of my mission. I felt the ardour of my early youth, when I first sought distinction in the crowded camp and battle-field, revive, as I gave loose to my reflections and considered the nature of the enterprise. But, in comparing the feelings I then experienced with those which excited my youthful ambition, it seemed that even war and victory, with all their glory, were far less alluring than the pursuit of researches such as these ; the objects of which were to spread the light of civilization over a portion of the globe yet un- known, though rich, perhaps, in the luxuriance of unculti- vated nature, and where science might accomplish new and unthought-of discoveries ; while intelligent man would find a region teeming with useful vegetation, abounding with rivers, hills, and vallies, and waiting only for his enterpris- ing spirit and improving hand to turn to account the native bounty of the soil. My first day's journey, terminated near Paramatta, at the residence of INIr. John Macarthur. I was received by that gentleman with his usual hospitality, and although not in the enjoyment of the best health, he insisted on accompanying me over his extensive and beautiful garden, where he pointed out to my attention, the first olive-tree ever planted in Australia. Here I also saw the cork-tree in full 6 A GARDEN. [CH. I. luxuriance — the caper plant growing amidst rocks — the English oak — the horse-chesnut — broom — magnificent mul- berry trees of thirty-five years' growth, umbrageous and green. Beds of roses, in great variety, were spread around, and filled the air with fragrance, while the climbing species of that beautiful flower was equally pleasing to the eye. I observed convict Greeks* — " acti fatis" — at work in that garden of the antipodes, training the vines to trellices, made after the fashion of those in the Peloponnesus. The state of the orange-trees, flourishing in the form of cones sixteen feet high, and loaded with fruit, was very remarkable, but they had risen from the roots of former trees, which, having been reduced to bare poles by a drought of three years' du- ration, had been cut off, and were now succeeded by these vigorous products of more genial seasons. Mr. Macarthur assured me, that by adopting this plan, many fruit-trees, after suffering from the effects of long-continued drought, might be renovated successfully. The want of moisture in the climate of Australia, may occasionally compel the gar- dener to resort to such extreme measures for the preserva- tion of his trees : but the orange has hitherto yielded a very profitable and constant return to those, who have attended to its cultivation in this colony. The luxuriant growth of the apple and pear, in a climate so dry and warm, is a remarkable fact ; and when we consider the exuberance of the vine in the few spots, where it has as yet been planted ; we are justified in anticipating from the variety of aspect and unbroken soil in these southern regions, that many a curious or luxurious wine, still unknown, may in time be produced there. But the garden, to iiini who seeks a home in distant colo- nies, must ever he an object of peculiar interest; for there, while cultivating the trees, fruits and flowers of his native land, the recollection of early days, and of the country of his hiith is awakened by the vivid colours of the simple flower • Pirates. C!I. i.] COUNTRY BETWEEN SYDNEY AND THE HAWKESBURY. 7 which his industry has reared, and which he knows to be a native of the soil to which he himself owes his existence. At an early hour on the following morning, I took leave of my kind host, and also of my friend Mr. Dunlop, to whose scientific assistance in preparing for this journey, I feel much indebted. Mr. James Macarthur accompanied me a few miles on the road, when we parted with regret ; and I set forth on my iournev in the direction of the Hawkesbury, along the road leading to the ferry, across that river at Wiseman's. I should here observe, that I had previously arranged that the exploring party, which, being slower in its movements, had been dispatched two weeks before, should await my arrival on Foy Brook, beyond the river Hunter, where I expected to meet Mr. White also, the assistant surveyor, whom 1 had selected to accompany me on this expedition. My ride, on that day, was along a ridge, which extended upwards of fifty miles, through a succession of deep ravines, where no objects met the eye except barren sandstone rocks, and stunted trees. With the hanksia and xanthorhcea always in sight, the idea of hopeless sterility is ever present to the mind, for these productions, in sandy soils at least, grow only where nothing else can vegetate. The horizon is flat, affording no relief to the eye from the dreary and inhospitable scene, which these solitudes present ; and which extends over a great portion of the country, uninhabitable even by the aborigines. Yet here tlie patient labours of the surveyor have opened a road, although the stream of population must be confined to it, since it cannot spread over a region so utterly unprofitable and worthless. It is not until the traveller lias completed a journey of fifty miles, that he enjoys the sight, doubly cheering after crossing such a desert, of green, cultivated fields, and the dwellings of man. The broad waters of the Hawkesbury then come unexpectedly in view, flowing in the deepest, and apparently most inaccessible of these rock-bound vallies. He 8 COUNTRY BEYOND [CH. I. here soon discovers a practical proof of the advantages of convict labour to the inhabitants of such a country, in the facility with which he descends by a road cut in the rock, to the comfortable inn near the ferry. Early next morning my ride was resumed, after crossing the river in the ferry-boat, where the width is 280 yards. The Hawkesbury is here the boundary between the counties of Cumberland and Northumberland. The scenery is fine on those broad and placid waters, sheltered by over-hanging cliffs, 600 feet in height. The river appears smooth as a mirror, and affords access by boats and small vessels, to the little sheltered cots and farms, which now enliven the mar- gin. These patches are of no great extent, and occur alter- nately on each bank of this noble stream, comprising farms of from thirty to a hundred acres. The necessity for a permanent land communication, be- tween the seat of government and the northern part of the colony was obvious, and, indeed, a road in that direction had been the subject of petitions from the settlers to Sir Thomas Brisbane, under whose auspices the track across the moun- tain beyond the Hawkesbury, was first discovered and sur- veyed by Mr. Finch. This track, with some slight altera- tions, was found, on a more general survey, to be the most favourable line for a cart-road in that direction, which the country afforded ; and it had been opened but a short time, when I thus proceeded along it, accompanied by Mr. Simp- son, the assistant-surveyor, who, under my direction, had accomplished the work. Just then, however, the first steam vessel arrived in Australia, and afforded a regular coast- communication between Sydney and the northern ])ortion of the colonv. The land communication became, in conse- quence, an object of less importance than before, to the small handful of settlers at least, althougli it was not the less essential to a respectable government, or wliere an armed force had been organized, as in New South Wales, solely for the suppression of bushrangers, a sub-genus iii tlie order CH. I.] THE HAWKESBURY. 9 batidittl, v^hich, happily, can no longer exist, except in places inaccessible to the mounted police. The ascent northward from this ferry on the Hawkesbury, is a substantial and permanent work, affording a favourable specimen of the value of convict labour, in anticipating the wants of an increasing population. The country traversed by this new road is equally barren, and more mountainous than the district between Paramatta and the Hawkesbury. Amid those rocky heights and depths, across which I had recently toiled on foot, marking out Avith no ordinary labour, the intended line, I had now the satisfac- tion to trot over a new and level road, winding like a thread through the dreary labyrinth before me, and in which various parts had already acquired a local appellation not wholly unsuited to their character, such as " Hungry Flat," " Devil's Backbone," " No-grass Valley,"* and " Dennis's Dog-ken- nel." In fact, the whole face of the country is composed of sandstone rock, and but partially covered with vegetation. The horizon is only broken by one or two summits, which are different both in outline and quality from the surrounding- country. These isolated heights generally consist of trap- rock, and are covered with rich soil and very heavy timber. The most remarkable is WarraAvolong^whose top I first observed from the hill of Jellore in the south, at the distance of 108 miles. This being a most important station for the general survey, which I made previously to opening the northern road, it was desirable to clear the summit, at least partly, of trees, a work which was accomplished after consi- derable labour — the trees having been very large. On re- moving the lofty forest, I found the view from that summit extended over a wild waste of rocky precipitous ravines, which debarred all access or passage in any direction, until I could patiently trace out the ridges between them, and for this * Originally Suodgrass Valley — but " Vox impuli vox Dei." The present name is shorter, and has the additional merit of being descriptive — for the valley contains but little grass. 10 NATIVES OF BRISBANE WATER. [CH. 1. purpose I ascended that hill on ten successive days, the whole of which time I devoted to the examination of the various outlines and their connections, by means of the theodolite. Looking northward, an intermediate and lower range concealed from view the valley of the Hunter, but the sum- mits of the Liverpool range appeared beyond it. On turn- ing to the eastward, my view extended to the unpeopled shores and lonely waters of the vast Pacific. Not a trace of man, or of his existence, was visible on any side, except a distant solitary column of smoke, that arose from a thicket between the hill on which I stood and the coast, and marked the asvlum of a remnant of the aboris-ines. These unfortu- nate creatures could no longer enjoy their solitary freedom ; for the dominion of the white man surrounded them. His sheep and cattle filled the green pastures where the kangaroo (the principal food of the natives) was accustomed to range, until the stranger came from distant lands and claimed the soil. Thus these first inhabitants, hemmed in by the power of the white population, and deprived of the liberty which they formerly enjoyed of wandei'ing at will through their native wilds, were compelled to seek a precarious shelter amidst the close thickets and rocky fastnesses which afforded them a temporary home, but scarcely a subsistence, for their chief support, the kangaroo, was either destroyed or banished. I knew this unhappy tiibc, and had frequently met them in their haunts. In the prosecution of my surveys I was ena- bled to explore the wildest recesses of these deep mountainous ravines, guided occasionally by one or two of their nundjei*. I felt no hesitation in venturing amongst them, for, to mo, they appeared a harmless unofi'cnding race.* On numy a dark night, and even during rainy weathei-, I have proceeded on liorscback amongst these steep and rocky ranges, my path being guided by two young boys belonging to the tribe, who ran cheerfully before my horse, altoinately tearing oil' the • Oil my return from llio interior in \M,'t, 1 li.urnt witli iniicli regret, tliut a war liiid coDiinciiced Itetwctn my old Iriend;? mid tlio niouiitefl iiolicc. CH. I.] THE WOLLOMBl. 11 Stringy bark which served for torches, and setting fire to the grass trees {xanthorlicBa) to light raj way. This can scarcely he considered a digression from my nar- rative of this day's journey, for Warrawolong was the only object visible, beyond the woody horizon. We had passed No-Grass Valley, the Devil's Backbone, and were ap- proaching Hungry Flat, when Mr. Simpson produced a grilled fowl, and a feed for our horses— and we alighted most willingly for half an hour, to partake of this timely refresh- ment, near a spring. On re-mounting, I bade Mr. Simpson farewell, after ex- pressing my satisfaction with his clever arrangements for opening this mountain road, a work which he had accom- plished with small means, in nine months. It was quite dark on the evening of the 26th, before I reached the inn near the head of the little valley of the Wol- lombi, a tributary to the river Hunter. Here, at length, we again find some soil fit for cultivation, and the vrhole of it has been taken up in farms. But the pasturage afforded by the numerous vallies on this side of the mountains, here called " cattle runs," is more profitable to the owners of the farms, than the fanns they actually possess, of which the produce by cultivation is only available to them at present, as the means of supporting grazing establishments. I should here observe, that in a climate so dry as that of Australia, the selection of farm land depends solely on the direction of streams, for it is only in the beds of water-courses, that any ponds can be found during dry seasons. The formation of reservoirs has not yet been resorted to, although the accidental largeness of ponds left in such channels has frequently determined settlers in their choice of a homestead, when by a little labour, a pond equally good might have been made in other parts, which few would select from the want of water. In the rocky gul- lies, that I had passed in these mountains, there was, proba- bly, a sufiiciency, but there was no land fit for the purposes of farming. In other situations, on the contraiy, there might 12 THE WOLLOMBI, [CH. I. be found abundance of good soil, considei-ed unavailable for any purpose except grazing, because it had no " frontage" (as it is termed), on a river or chain of ponds. Selections have been frequently made of farms, which liave thus ex- cluded extensive tracts behind them from the water, and these remaining consequently unoccupied, have continued accessible only to the sheep or cattle of the possessor of the water frontage. In these vallies of the Upper Wollonibi, we find little breadth of alluvial soil, but a never-failing supply of water has already attracted settlers to its banks — and those small farmers who live on a field or two of maize and potatoes — and who are the only beginning of an agricultural population, yet apparent, in New South Wales — shew a disposition to nestle in any available corner there. But on the lower por- tion of the Wollombi, where the valley widens, and water becomes less abundant, the soil being sandy, I found it im- possible to locate some veterans on small farms, which I had marked out for them, because it was known that in dry sea- sons, although each farm had frontage on the Wollombi Brook, very few ponds remained in that part of its channel. Nov. 27. — Early this morning, I had a visit from Mr, Finch, who was very anxious that 1 should attach him to the exploring party. As I foresaw, that some delay might occur in procuringprovisions, without his assistance, in this district, 1 accepted his services, and gave him his instructions, condi- tionally. I met Mr. White at the junction of the Ellalong, and we proceeded together, down the valley of the Wol- lombi. The sandstone terminates in cliffs on the right bank of this stream near the projected village of Broke, (named by me in iioiioui- of that meritorious oihcer, Sir Charles Broke Vere, Bart.) but the lull bank is overlooked by other rocky extremities falling from the ranges on the west, until it reaches the main stream. The most conspicuous of these headlands, as they a|>pear from that of " Mattavvee" behind CH. I.] JOIN THE PARTY. 13 the village of Broke, is called " Wambo." This consists of a dark mottled trap with crystals of felspar. But the most remarkable feature in this extensive valley, is the termina- tion thereupon of the sandstone formation which renders barren so large a proportion of the surface of New South Wales. This, in many parts, resembles what was formerly called the iron-sand of England, where it occurs both as a fresh and saltwater formation. The mountains northward of this valley of the Hunter consist chiefly of trap-rock, the lower country being open, and lightly wooded. The river, although occasionally stagnant, contains a permanent sup- ply of water, and consequently the whole of the land on its banks, is favourable for the location of settlers, and accord- ingly has been all taken up. The country, and especially the hills beyond the left bank, affords excellent pasturage for sheep, as many large and thriving establishments testify. At one of this description, belonging to Mr. Blaxland, and which is situated on the bank of the Lower Wollombi, Mr. White and I arrived towards evening, and passed the night. Nov. 28. — We left the hospitable station of Mr, Blaxland at an early hour, and proceeded on our way to join the party. We found the country across which we rode, very much parched from the want of rain. The grass was every where yellow, or burnt up, and in many parts on fire, so that the smoke which arose from it obscured the sun, and added sen- sibly to the heat of the atmosphere. We lost ourselves, and, consequently, a good portion of the day, from having rode too carelessly through the forest country, while engaged in conversation respecting the in- tended journey. We, nevertheless, reached the place of rendezvous on Foy Brook long before night, and I en- camped on a spot, where the whole party was to join me in the morning. Mr. White left me here for the purjjose of making some arrangements at home, and respecting the supplies which I had calculated on obtaining in this part of the country. 14 VALLEY OF THE HUNTER. [CH. I. During the day's route, wo traversed the valley of the river Hunter, an extensive tract of country, different from that mountainous region from Avhich I had descended, inas- much as it consists of low undulating land, thinly wooded, and bearing, in most parts, a good crop of grass. Portions of the surface near Mr. Blaxland's establish- ment, bore that peculiar, undulating character which appears in the southern districts, where it closely resembles furrows, and is termed " ploughed ground." This appearance usually indicates a good soil, which is either of a red or very dark colour, and in which small portions of trap-rock, but more frequently concretions of indurated marl, are found. Coal appears in the bed and banks of the Wollonibi, near Mr. Blaxland's station, and at no great distance from his farm is a salt spring, also in the bed of this brook. The waters in the lesser tributaries, on the north bank of the river Hunter, become brackish when the current ceases. In that part of the bed of this river, which is nearest to the Wol- lombi (or to " Wambo' rather), I found an augitic rock, consisting of a mixture of felspar and augite. Silicificd fossil wood of a coniferous tree, is found abundantly in the plains, and in rounded pebbles in the banks and bed of the river, also chalcedony and compact brown haematite. A hill of some height on the right bank, situate twenty-six miles from the sea shore, is composed chiefly of a volcanic grit of greenish grey colour, consisting principally of felspar, and being in some parts slightly, in other parts highly calcareous when the rock assumes a compact aspect. This deposit con- tains numerous fossil shells, consisting chiefly of four dis- tinct species of a new genus, nearest to hippopodium ; also a new species of trochvs ; ntrijpa glabra, and spirifer, a shell occurring also in older limestones of En"land.* • These shells having liccn submitted to i'Mr. James Dc Carl Sowerliy, T .niii indebted to that peiitleman for the following df-;crii)tioii. Class Conchifcru. Order, Dimi/aria. Genus, Megndesmiis. Valves equal, inequilateral, thick, their edges even ; umbones nearly ceu- FJU2 i^' Fig". 2. •^^^fftfeT^hy ■> / '■'Ti^r^J^Vl^er it^7/e^^i^a.'-0' Fig . 1 fAe]BSMI7S AlSrTE«JUATU S„FI©.l.Mff:,(BAIJE,SMTIIS JUdBEVIS. FIG. 3, . MEGAJD>ESMITiS CUJVEATUS. CII. I.] FOSSILS OF THE HUNTER. 15 Amongst these remains was also found embedded a very perfect specimen of fossil vrood. I may add, that in the bed of the Glindon Brook, which flows from the left bank of the Hunter, rocks of aroillaceous limestone are found in laroe round boulders, some of which are more than J 5 feet in diameter.* Nov. 29. — The whole ecpiipment came up at half-past nine, whereupon I distributed such articles as were neces- sary to complete the organization of the party, and the day was passed in making various arrangements for the better regulation of our proceedings, both on encamping and in travellino;. I obtained from Assistant-Surveyor Dixon, then employed in this neighbourhood, some account of Liverpool Plains — this officer having surveyed the ranges which sepa- rate these interior regions from the appropriated lands of the colony. The heat of this day was exceedingly oppressive, the thermometer having been as high as 100° in the shade, bat after a thunder-shower it fell to 88°. tral ; hinge sunk, with an antiquated area and one ? or two ? large teeth in each valve J ligament external, large; impressions of the ahducter museles strong, nearly equal, united by the impression of the mantle, at the posterior extremity of which is a small shallow sinus; no lunette. A genus of heavy shells in some resjiects resembling Astarte, in others especially in having a striated area within the beaks, HippopocUum, from which it is distinguished by the position of the umbones and the presence of a thick tooth in the hinge. There appear to be four species, which may be named Megadestnus globosus, (PI. II. page 14.) M. Icevis (fig. 1.) M. antlqiiatvs (fig. 2.) and M. cimeatus (fig. 3. PI. III. page 1.5.) the cuneatus differs from antiquatus, only in having the shell alittle contracted towards the anterior side. The large shell (PI. IV. page 16. fig. I and 2.) is near to Isocardia, but Mr. S. would not venture to say it belongs to that genus. The Trochus (PI. IV. fig. 3 and 4.) may be called T. Oeuhis. * The fossil vegetation seems to consist chiefly of the Glossopteris Brownii, (of BrongniartJ a fern which occurs in a stratum of ironstone at Newcastle, and in one of the same mineral on the southern coast, also in sandstone in the valley of the Hunter, and abundantly in the shale near the coal wrought at Newcastle. 16 MEN EMPLOYED ON [CH. I. Nov. 30. — At length I had the satisfaction to see my party move forward in exploring order ; it consisted of the following persons, viz. : — Alexander Burnett, Robert Whiting, William Woods, John Palmer, Thomas Jones, William Worthington, James Souter, Robert Muirhead, Daniel Delaney, James Forehara, Joseph Jones, Stephen Bombelli, Timothy Cussack, Anthony Brown, Henry Dawkins, ^ Carpenters. } Sailors. Medical Assistant. Bullock- Drivers . Groom. Blacksmith. Surveyor's Man. Servant to me. Servant to Mr. White. These were the best men I could find. All were ready to face fire or water, in hopes of regaining by desperate exploits, a portion, at least, of that liberty which had been forfeited to the laws of their country. This was always a favourite service with the best disposed of the convict prisoners, for in the event of their meriting, by their good conduct, a favourable report on my return, the government was likely to grant them some indulgence. I chose these men either from the characters they bore, or according to their trade or particular qualifications : thus, Burnett was the son of a respectable house-carpenter on the banks of the Tweed, where he had been too fond of shooting game, his only cause of " trouble." Whiting, a Londoner, had been a soldier in the Guards. Woods had been found useful in the department as a sur- veyor's man ; in which ca])acity he first came under my notice, after he had been long employed as a boatnuin in jPI.5 tilt' >' '^^Wc^ ddhili^ _ '^rra/'J*rznZs^lt^^ey\M^iJfy CH. I.] THE EXPEDITION. 17 the survey of the coast, and having become, in consequence, ill from scurvy, he made application to me to be employed onshore. The justness of his request, and the services he had performed, prepossessed me in his favour, and I never afterwards had occasion to change my good opinion of him. John Palmer was a sailmaker as well as a sailor, and both he and Jones had been on board a man-of-war, and were very handy fellows. Worthington was a strong youth, recently arrived from Nottingham. He was nicknamed by his comrades " Five o'clock," from his having, on the outset of the journey, dis- turbed them by insisting that the hour was five o'clock soon after midnight, from his eagerness to be ready in time in the morning. I never saw Souter's diploma, but his experience and skill in surgery were sufficient to satisfy us, and to acquire for him from the men the appellation of " Doctor." Robert Muirhead had been a soldier in India, and banished, for some mutiny, to New South Wales ; where his steady conduct had obtained for him an excellent character. Delaney and Foreham were experienced men in driving- cattle. Joseph Jones, originally a London groom, I had always found intelligent and trust-worthy. Bombelli could shoe horses, and was afterwards trans- ferred to my service by Mr. Sempill in lieu of a very tur- bulent character, whom I left behind, and who declared it to be his firm determination to be hanged. Cussack had been a bog surveyor in Ireland ; he was an honest creature, but had got somehow implicated in a charge of administerino- unlawful oaths. Brown had been a soldier, and subsequently was assistant coachman to the Marquis of , and Dawkins was an old tar — in whom Mr. White, himself formerly an officer in the Indian navy, placed much confi- dence. 1 c 18 EQUIPMENT. [CH. I. Thus it had been my study, in organizing this party, to combine proved men of both services with some neat-handed mechanics, as engineers, and it now formed a respectable body of men, for the purpose for which it was required. Our materiel consisted of eight muskets, six jjistols ; and our small stock of ammunition, including a box containing sky-rockets, was carried on one of the covered carts. Of these tilted carts we had two, so constructed that they could be drawn either by one or two horses. They were also so light, that they could be moved across difficult passes by the men alone. Three stronger carts or drays were loaded with our stock of provisions, consisting of flour, pork (which had been boned in order to diminish the bulk as much as possible), tea, tobacco, sugar and soap. We had, besides, a sufficient number of pack saddles for the draught animals, that, in case of necessity, we might be able to carry forward the loads by such means. Several pack-horses were also attached to the party. I had been induced to prefer wheel carriages for an exploratory journey — 1st, From the level nature of the interior country ; 2ndly, From the greater facility and certainty they afforded of starting early, and as the necessity for laying all our stores in separate loads on animals' backs could thus be avoided. The latter method being further exposed to interruptions on the way — by the derangement of loads — or galling the animals' backs — one inexperienced man being thus likely to impede the progress of the whole party. For the navigation or passage of rivers, two portable boats of canvass, had been prepared by Mr. Eager, of the King's dockyard at Sydney. We carried the canvass only, with models of the ribs — and tools, having carpenters who could complete them, as occasions required. Our hour for encanqjing, when circumstances permitted, was to be two v. m., as alibrding time for the cattle to feed and rest, but this depended on our finding water and grass. Day-break was to be the signal for preparing fcjr the journey, CH. I.] BURNING GRASS. 19 and no time was allowed for breakfast, until after the party had encamped for the day. As we proceeded along the road leading to the pass in the Liverpool range, Mr. White overtook us, having obtained an additional supply of flour, tobacco, tea and sugar, with which Mr. Finch was to follow the party as soon as he could pro- cure the carts and bullocks necessary for the carriage of these stores. After travelling six hours, we encamped beside a small water-course near Muscle Brook, the thermometer at four p. M. being as high as 95°. In the evening, the burning grass became rather alarming, especially as we had a small stock of ammunition in one of the carts. I had established our camp to the windward of the burning grass, but I soon discovered that the progress of the fire was against the wind, especially where the grass was highest. This may appear strange, but it is easily accounted for. The extremities of the stalks bending from the wind, are the first to catch the flame, but as they become successively ignited, the fire runs directlv to the windward, which is toward the lower end of the spikes of grass, and catching the extremities of other stalks still further in the direction of the wind, it travels in a similar manner along them. V/e managed to extinguish the burning grass before it reached our encampment, but to prevent the invasion of such a dangerous enemy we took the precaution, on other occasions, of burning a sufficient space around our tentss in situations where we were exposed to like inconvenience and danger. Dec. 1, Six A. M. — -The thermometer at 82°. As the party proceeded, the sky became overcast, and the absence of the sun made the day much more agreeable. Towards noon we had rain and thunder, and this weather continued until we reached the banks of the Hunter. We forded the river where the stream was considerable at the time, and then en- camped on the left bank. The draught animals appeared less fatigued by this journey, than they had been by that of c 2 20 ABORIGINES AND COLONISTS. [CH. 1. the former day, owing probably to the refreshing moisture and cooler air. After the tents had been pitched, a fine invigorating breeze arose, and the weather cleared up. Segenhoe, the extensive estate of Potter Macqueen, Esq. was not far distant, and Mr. Sempill the agent, called at my tent, and afforded me some aid in completing my ar- rangements. I was very anxious to obtain the assistance of an aboriginal guide, but the natives had almost all disappeared from the valley of the Hunter ; and those who still linger near their ancient haunts, are sometimes met with, about such large establishments as Segenhoe, where, it may be presumed, they meet with kind treatment. Their reckless gaiety of manner; intelligence respecting the country, expressed in a laughable inversion of slang words ; their dexterity, and skill in the use of their weapons ; and above all, their few wants, generally ensure them that look of welcome,* with- out which these rovers of the wild will seldom visit a farm or cattle station. Among those, who have become sufficiently acquainted with us, to be sensible of that happy state of secu- rity, enjoyed by all men under the protection of our laws, the conduct is strikingly different from that of the natives who remain in a savage state. The latter are named " myalls," by their half civilized brethren — who, indeed, hold them so much in dread, that it is seldom possible to prevail on any one to accompany a traveller far into the unexplored parts of the country. At Segenhoe, on a former occasion, I met with a native but recently arrived from the wilds. His terror and suspicion, when required to stand steadily before me, while 1 drew his portrait, were such, that, notwithstanding the power of disguising fear, so i"emarkable in the savage race, the stout heart of Cambo was overcome, and beat visibly; — the perspiration streamed from his breast, and he was a)>out to sink to the ground, when he at length suddenly darted from my presence; but he speedily returned, bearing in one hui;d * Tlicy imdrr^tund our looks Iicttcr tlian our spcocli. CH. I.] A COLONIST, 21 his club, and in the other his bomraereng, with which beseemed to acquire just fortitude enough, to be able to stand on his legs, until I finished the sketch. (See Frontispiece, PI. 1.) Dec 2.- — The party moved off at seven, and passing, soon after, near the farm of an old man, whom I had assisted some years before, in the selection of his land, I rode to see him, accompanied by Mr. White. He was busy with his harvest, but left the top of his wheat-stack on seeing me, and running up, cordially welcomed us to his dwelling. A real scotch bonnet covered the brow of a face which re- minded me, by its characteristic carving, of the " land of the mountain and the flood." The analogy between the respec- tive features, was at least so strong in my mind, and the sight of the one was so associated with the idea of the other, that had I seen this face on a stranger, in a still more distant corner of the earth — it must have called to mind the hills of my native land. The old man was very deaf, but in spite of age and this infirmity, his sharp blue eye expressed the endurino- vigour of his mind. He had buried his wife in Scotland, and had left there a numerous family, that he might become its pioneer at the antipodes. He had thus far worked his way successfully, and was beginning to reap the fruits of his adventurous industry. Sleek cattle filled his stock-yard, his fields waved with ripe grain, and I had the satisfaction of learning from him, that he had written for his family, and that he soon expected their arrival in the colony. He immediately gave grain to our horses, and placed before us new milk ; and, what we found a still greater luxury, pure water from the running burnie close by ; also a bottle of " the mountain dew," which, he said, was from a still which was " no far aff." When I was about to mount my horse, he enquired if I could spare five minutes more, when he put into my hands the copy of a long memorial addressed to the government, which he had taken from among the leaves of a very old folio volume of Pitscottie's History of Scotland. This memorial prayed, that whereas 22 BURNING HILL OF WINGEN. [CH. I. Scoone was in the valley of Strathearne, and that the pillow of Jacob which had been kept there as the coronation stone of the Kings of Scotland, was fated still to be, where their dominion extended ; and as this valley of the Kingdon Ponds, had not received a general name, that it might be called Strathearne, &c. &c. We were finally compelled, although it still wanted two hours of noon^ to drink a " stirrup-cup" at the door — when he most heartily drank success to our ex- pedition, and I went on my way rejoicing that, on leaving the last man of the white race we were likely to see for some time, the ceremony of shaking hands was a vibration of sin- cere kindness. We soon overtook the party — and had proceeded with it, some distance, when a soldier of the mounted police came up, and delivered to me a letter, from the military secre- tary at Sydney, informing me by command of the Acting- Governor, that George Clarke — alias " the Barber,^' — (the bushranger,) had sawed off his irons, and escaped from the prison at Bathurst. This intelligence was meant to put me on my guard respecting the natives, for from the well known character of the man, it was supposed, that he would assemble them beyond the settled districts, with a view to drive off the cattle of the colonists — and especial caution would be necessary to prevent a surprise from natives so directed, if, as most people supposed, his story of " the great river," had only been an invention of his own, by which he had hoped to improve his chance of escape. (See Appendix, No. 1.) At three v. m., we reached a spot favourable for en- camping, the Kingdon brook forming a broad pool, deep enough to batho in, and the grass in the neighbourhood being very good. The " burning hill" of " Wingen" was distant al>out four miles. This ])henomenon appears to be of the same character as that at llolworth, in the neighbour- liood of W(!ymouth, described by Professor Buckland and Mr. Dc la Beche in the following terms : — " It is probable n.6. B URN ING Hl-LXi OF 1WlI^GEN,cj.s in TftbTuary 1829, X' S^ JffAira.JtiU. er ,9<9(f iarAi . U" X" --%.-•■• X -iT- N >roiu. ^'ltAtJoA &J aJacrrc . Frem^NiUi^r-t. A «^ /wwf lyJUftrT L JD^cMST y^- our old route. Accordino" to the bearino-s of several of these, I found that the plundered camp was only seventeen miles distant ; and as the ground was so soft that we could not move farther with the carts, until fair weather had ao'ain rendered it passable, I resolved to halt the party here, until after my intended excursion to Bombelli's Ponds. Feb. 15. — The rain continued but not without some inter- mission. At one time the wind came from the north, and in the evening the moon made her appearance amid fleecy clouds, which raised our hopes. Feh. 16. — The rain poured from a sky that might have alarmed Noah. The ground became a sea of mud ; even within our tents we sank to the knees, no one could move about with shoes — the men accordingly waded bare-footed. The water in the pond was also converted into mud. Ground crickets of an undescribed species — which perhaps may be called Gryllotalpa Australis — came out of the earth in great numbers. At three p. m. the blue sky appeared in the west, and the nimbus clouds subsided. Towards night the wind died away, and the full moon rising in a most serene sky, encouraged us once more to indulge in the hope of getting home. Feh. 17. — A beautiful clear morning, but this was never- theless a dies non to us, owing to the impassable state of the surface of the earth. An emu came very near our tents, and by carrying a bush a la '■'■ Birnam" we got several shots, without, however, having the good fortune to hit it. We had the satisfaction to find that the ground was drying very fast. In the evening the mountains to the eastward were seen clearly, for the first time. They appeared to be very rocky and steep, much resembling the outline of Teneriffe or Ma- deira; and no trees appeared on the highest pinnacles. Feb. IK, — The weather continuing fine, it was now in my j)Ower to visit the unfortunate camp of Mr. Finch. Leaving Mr. White, therefore, in charge of ours, I proceeded this CH. VI.] EXCURSION TO MR. FINCh's PLUNDERED CAMP. 127 morning towards tliat spot, accompanied by Mr. Finch, and a party mounted on pack-horses. We pursued a direct line, traversing every scrub in the way, in expectation of surpris- ing some of the natives. After riding six miles, we passed one of their encampments, where they appeared to have re- cently been, as the fire was still burning. In the scrubs we saw several flocks of kangaroos, eight or ten in each ; and on the plains, we this day saw a greater number of emus than we had before fallen in with during the whole journey. Reaching, at length, the open plains beyond Brush Hill, I once more traced the line of that water-course, which may truly be said to have saved our lives, when we first providen- tially fell in with it, just a* the men were beginning to sink, overcome by extreme and long-continued thirst. To us, it had afforded then the happiest of camps, after such a deliver- ance; and now, we were to witness in the same spot, a scene of death. Having struck into the old track of the carts as we approached the place, we found the pistol of Bombelli within a foot of the track. This was surprising, for although Mr. Finch had informed me, that Bombelli lost it in the grass, after adjusting some harness, (a fatal loss, poor fellow, to him), it is seldom that any article so dropped, escapes the quick-sighted natives, to whom the surface of the earth is, in fact, as legible as a newspaper, so accustomed are they to read in any traces left thereon, the events of the day. For the lost pistol, Burnett, who had charge of the arms, carefully sought, as he felt a commendable and soldier-like desire, to carry back to Sydney, in good order, our full com- plement of fire-arms. A lonely cart, and two dead bodies covered by the remains of Mr. Finch's equipment, now marked the spot, where we had formerly encamped. The two bullocks were no longer to be seen. The natives had revisited the spot, since Mr. Finch last quitted it, and had carried off" the remainder of the flour, and great part of the canvass of the tent. The bodies w^ere covered by a pile of various articles, such as saddles, 128 BURY THE BODIES. [CH. VI. bows and yokes, harness, pack-saddles, trunks, canisters, &c. The savages appeared to have been ignorant of the use of sugar, tea, and tobacco, articles \Yhicli the aborigines nearer to our colony prefer to all other things. A large canister of tea had been emptied on the ground, a similar canister, more than half full of sugar, lay on its side, so that its contents were still good, the lids of both canisters having been carried off. The whole stock of tobacco lay scattered about the ground, and destroyed by the late rains. A spade, a steel-yard, and a hammer were left ; although iron had been so desirable, that one of the iron pins of the cart was carried away. The two hair trunks belonging to Mr. Finch, and which contained his clothes, papers, dice, re- mained on the heap, uninjured and unopened, while the truly savage plunderers had carried off, apparently as stuff for clothinof, the canvass of the tent. From these circuni- stances it was obvious that the murderers were quite unac- quainted with the colonists or their habits. The bodies were now in the most offensive state of pu- trefaction, and already so much decayed, that Ave could not even distinguish the persons, except by the smaller frame of Bombelli. The body of the bullock-driver lay under the cart, where he had been accustomed to sleep; that of Bombelli about four feet from it. INo dress appeared to have been on either, besides the shirts, and one side of each skull was so shattered, that fragments lay about on removing the remains into a grave. It seemed most probable, that the natives had stolen upon them when asleep. I ought to state here, that Mr. Finch, on first leaving the settled districts, had five men, two of whom, having behaved ill, he had been obliged to send back to the colony. Having interred the bodies, we loaded the cart with such articles as still remained serviceable, and yoking it to three of the horses which the men had brought, we i-eturned towards the camp. By the smoke, which arose from various parts we perceived tiiat the aborigines were watching our CH. VI.] NATIVE SIGNALS OF COLUMNS OF SMOKE. 129 proceedings, and I considered it desirable, under all circum- stances, to return to the camp that night, although the distance was seventeen miles. On approaching these remains of INIr. Finch's party, in the morning, I had proceeded under cover of the scrubs that the natives might be as little as possible aware of our movement or intentions. We now returned towards our camp along the original track, as being a direction not only more favourable for the cart, but more expeditious ; for as the route was already marked, no further care respecting the line was necessary, and I could thus devote my whole attention to the natives, who were about. When we reached the head of the highest slope, near the place whence I first saw these ponds, a dense column of smoke ascended from Mount Frazer, and, subsequently, other smokes arose, ex- tending in telegraphic line far to the south, along the base of the mountains ; and thus communicating to the natives, who might be upon our route homewards, the tidings of our re- turn. These signals were distinctly seen by Mr. White at the camp, as well as by us. The sun set soon after we passed Mount Frazer, but, for- tunately, not until the woods no longer intervened between us and the camp. On that naked horizon, we might hope at length to see our fires, although they were then nine miles distant, and I knew the bearing sufficiently well to be able to travel by compass nearly in their direction. A few bushes on the outline of the horizon were long useful, as precluding the necessity for repeated references to the compass, but a dark cloud arose beyond and obscured the western horizon. Just then a good old pack-horse, named Rattler, knocked up, * This mode of communicating intelligence of sudden danger, so invariably practised by the natives of Australia, seems quite in conformity with the customs of early ages as mentioned in Scripture. " O ye children of Benjamin, gather yourselves to flee out of the midst of Jerusalem, and set ujj a sign of fire in Bsth-haceerem : for evil appeareth out of the north, and great destruction." — Jer. vi. 1. 1 K 130 COURAGE AND HUMANITY OF ONE OF THE MEN. [CH. VI. and I reluclaiitly gave orders to leave liim behind, when Whiting, the old guardsman, volunteered to remain with him, and brins him on after he had rested : this in the face of both hunger and danger, I duly appreciated, and long remembered, to his advantage. We soon after came upon some surface water, and refreshed the tired animals. Precisely at eight o'clock, as I had arranged with Mr. White, a rocket ascended from the camp, and to us was just perceptible, like a needle in the remote distance. That little column of fire, however, was enough to assure the fatigued men ; and it enabled me to mark two stars in the same direction, which guided me on towards the camp. At length we could distinguish the large fires made there for the same purpose ; and by ten o'clock we had terminated the arduous labours of the day, and I had the satisfaction to find, that the party under Mr. White had re- mained undisturbed. Two more rockets were afterwards sent up for the guidance of Whiting, and a huge fire was also kept burning, until, at three a.m. the old soldier arrived safe, bringing up the old horse, which, after resting a while, and drinking at the water, (found by Whiting as well as by us) had come on tolerably well. Feb. 19. — Notwithstanding the fatigues undergone by a portion of the party, we were all glad to quit the muddy camp this morning ; and we continued to travel towards the old route, on the same bearing by which we had approached it. The ground was still soft, rendering the draught heavy, and our homeward progress was accordingly very sIoav. At length, however, we reached the ponds, which we recognized as the same we had formerly crossed about a mile and a half more to the eastward, and I noAV named them Welcome Ponds. To these salutary waters Mr. Finch had fallen back, when unable to find any at Mount Frazer. We this day traversed an open plain, extending the whole way between the two camps. I observed, as we proceeded, a hill to the southward, the summit of which was equally clear of timber as the plains, above which its height was 80 or 100 feet. CH. VI.] ROCKS OF NUNDAWAR. 131 The sides were grassy and smooth. I named it Mount Mud, in commemoration of the difficulties with which we had contended in its neighbourhood. Welcome Ponds, on which we now encamped, had been converted by the late rain into a running brook. The slopes of the ground on its banks were so anomalous, that but for the actual current of the water to the westward, and the situation of the hills on the east- ward, whence alone it could come, 1 must have remained in doubt as to the direction of the fall of the waters in that channel. The banks of these water-courses on the plains, as I have elsewhere observed, are the highest parts of the ground. This higher ground appeared here to rise towards the west, along the banks of the brook, which, flowing also westward, seemed to run up hill. The soil was mixed with pebbles of vesicular trap, probably amygdaloid with the kernels decom- posed, and containing particles of olivine. There were also pebbles of a quartzose conglomerate, and others of decom- posed porphyry, the base consisting of granular felspar, with crystals of common felspar. It is not improbable that good millstones might be obtained from the range of Nundavvar. The grass was, fortunately, much better here than at the last camp. Feh. 20. — During the night a heavy thunder-storm broke over us, and was accompanied by so much rain, that the ground was too soft in the morning for us to proceed. I accordingly halted till one o'clock. We then succeeded in crossing the brook, immediately above our encampment, and continued, first southward to avoid a scrub, and then almost east. On a portion of open ground, the progress of the party was slow enough, but in an open kind of scrub, where I hoped to have got on better, the ground proved to be still less favourable, for water lay in hollows, which at any season might have been soft, and were then impassable. The cattle at length could draw no longer, the carts sinking to the axles ; by at- taching a double, team, however, and drawing each cart successively forward to our intended camp, we effected the K 2 132 DIFFICULT TRAVELLING. [CH. VI. transit of the whole by sunset, and fixed our home for the nig'ht on a hard bank of gravel, beside Meadow Ponds, and to my no small satisfaction, on the line of our former track. We had travelled five miles only, but to hit this point, which was exactly at an angle of that route, was a desideratum with me, and we had now before us a line of marked trees leading homewards, and relieving me from all further anxiety as to the line to be pursued. The ponds were now united by a stream of beautifully clear water, and were so far difierent from those we had left that morning, in which the water had a clayey or muddy colour. During this day's journey we killed a snake, measuring seven feet in length, and eight inches in diameter; and the fat of this reptile was considered a useful addition to a dish at dinner. In the water-course we found pebbles, similar to those at the last camp. Feb. 21 . — Proceeding at an early hour, we now traversed, with satisfaction, the scrub through which, during very hot weather, we had formerly been obliged to cut our way. The ground beyond it was soft, and the labour distressing to our jaded cattle. About three p. m. wx encamped on a rising- ground, where some water, which had fallen during the late rains, had lodged in hollows, in sufficient abundance to satisfy our wants. In respect to this essential article, indeed, the late rains had supplied enough, to leave me more at liberty in the choice of camps. From the site selected here, the view of the mountains to the eastward was rather fine, especially as the ground sloped towards them. Behind us on the west was a dense scrub ; not the most pleasant of neigh- bours, when savage natives were about, Feb. 22. — We traversed without much difficulty the plains where wo had, on our advance, halted to make certain repairs; and we next entered the scrub, where I had presented the *^maha\vk to the young native, as a reward for the confi- dence with which he had approached us, when the rest of his tribe foil back. We had not advanced far beyond the CO. VI.] CIVILITY OF THE TRIBE FIRST MET. 133 scene of that interview, when I perceived a number of natives, running before me along our line of route. I hastened after them, when I perceived several men advancing to meet me. They halted in a rather formal manner at some distance, and I next came upon their spears, which, with a stone hatchet, had been laid across our track. There, I alighted from my horse, and proceeded slowly towards them on foot, inviting them as well as I could to come forward, and which they accordingly did. Three men met me at half-way. One of these seemed rather old, another was very stout and fat, and the third had an intelligent countenance and thin person, but was so thickly covered with the most raised sort of scarifications, that I was half inclined to think, that the slightness of his frame might be partly owing to the lacerations, which covered it. Other members of the tribe soon joined us, and as the carts by this time had arrived at the spears on the ground, I took one up and explained to the natives, that the wheels passing over would break them ; still these strange people would not remove them, and I concluded, that this prostration of their weapons, was intended to make us acquainted with their friendly disposition towards us. They began to call loudly to their gins, who stood assembled under a large tree at some distance, and we plainly under- stood the invitation of the men to visit these females. But our party was much more disposed to fight than make love ; and I have little doubt that by throwing a si igle spear the natives would have pleased them more, than by all the civility they were evidently anxious to shew us ; so desirous were they, at that time, to avenge the late murders — when even the odour of corruption still hung like a pestilence about the articles, recovered from the plundered camp. The natives, however, 'perhaps out of pure cordiality, in return for our former disinterested kindness, persisted in their endeavours to introduce us very particularly to their Avomen. They ordered them to come up, divested of their cloaks and bags, and placed them before us. Most of the men appeared to 134 THE OLD TRACK IMPASSABLE. [CH. VI. possess two, the pair in general consisting of a fat plump gin, and one much younger. Each man placed himself before his gins, and bowing forward witli a shrug, the hands and arms being thrown back pointing to each gin, as if to say — Take which you please. The females on their part, evinced no apprehensions, but seemed to regard us, beings of a race so diSerent, without the slightest indication of either fear, aversion, or surprise. Their looks were rather expressive of a ready acquiescence in the proffered kindness of the men, and when at length they brought a sable nymph vis a vis to Mr. White, I could preserve my gravity no longer, and throwing the spears aside, I ordered the bullock- drivers to proceed. I endeavoured to explain by gestures, that two of our party had been killed by their countrymen, and pointed to the place, so that, as INIr. White thought, they understood me. On seeing the party again in motion, most of the natives disappeared, one or two only lingered behind trees, and it then occurred to me, to offer them a small iron tomahawk in exchange for that of stone, which lay beside the spears. I therefore sent Dawkins to them, to make a bargain if he could, but on going back he saw most of the natives running off with spears in their hands, and could not make his object understood by those who remained. The earth, in this part of our old track, had become very soft, and although the surface undulated, it possessed a pecu- liar rottenness, so that where the upper crust bore me on horse-back, the carts would suddenly sink to the axle. Tlie horses at length began also to sink through the surface crust, and we were approaching a hollow which appeared likely to be still worse, when our wheel-carriages at length got quite fast, and then, recollecting some gestures of the natives, I understood their meaning. They had pointed forward along the way we were pursuing, holding the hands as high as the breast, as if to show how deep ; and then to the eastward, as if to say — that direction would be better. We were now forced to retrace our steps, and in following CH. VI.] MUSQUITOES TROUBLESOME. 135 the course indicated by the natives, we made a slight detour, and travelled over hard ground into our old track again. This useful information given so kindly by these natives, convinced me that no treachery was intended, although among the men, who had so recently buried their comrades, I believe a different opinion prevailed. No other impediment obstructed our progress through these woods, which consisted of the iron-bark species of eucalyptus, and we soon emerged on the plains, where the surface being composed of clay, was found much the best for travelling upon at that season, and altogether free from that rottenness, which in some parts of the forest, had this day so greatly impeded the party. We encamped on the ground, which we had formerly occupied at Lobster Pond. During this and the two preceding days, the party was tormented by a very large species of musquitoe, which had not been previously seen on this journey. They were most troublesome when the morning was growing warm. Their colour was grey, and they had thin black parallel stripes on the back. We met these tormenting insects, on first entering the woods from the plains. During the drought, a smaller species had been troublesome at night, as I had frequently experienced, when obliged to sit, sextant in hand, awaiting the passage of stars near the meridian. I found that the burning a little bullock dung in my tent, cleared it of all musquitoes for the night. Feb. 23. — This morning we were early en route^ in hopes to reach the Nammoy. I took care to find again the tree which bore the yellow flowers ; as it certainly was rare, being the only one of the description seen throughout the journey. Now, however, the flowers had given place to young fruit, which were of the size of an acorn, and grew on a long hooked stalk.* In crossing the low ridge, which separates the plains from the Nammoy, we again toiled through very soft ground. * See Chapter viii. of next Journey for a description of this tree. 136 REGAIN THE NAMMOY. [CH. VI. It occurred chiefly on the sides of slopes, and in the midst of forests of eucalypti, where 1 should have expected the hardest kind of surface. We made the Nammoy, however, in good time ; this being the first of our former stages, which we had been able to accomplish in one day, since the wet weather commenced. The late rains had produced no change in the waters of this river ; a circumstance shewing, perhaps, that less had fallen in the south-east than on the plains where we had been. Noneof the kind offish, that we most prized (Gristes Peelii), could now be caught in this river, though abundance of that which the men commonly called bream {cernua h'ldyana), a. very coarse but firm fish, which makes a groaning noise when taken out of the water; and here it may be observed, that the colour of the cod or Peel's perch was lighter, and that of the Eel-fish (Tandamis), darker, in the Karaula, than in any other river. Feb. 24. — A fine cool morning. I attempted to cut ofi" a slight detour in our old track, by travelling nearer to the course of the Nammoy; but a soft and swampy flat soon compelled me to seek the former wheel-marks, and even to proceed still nearer to the base of the hills, for the sake of hard ground. We next travelled westward of our line, thus crossing an excellent tract of country; and without furtlier impediment, we arrived on Maule's creek, which we crossed with all our carts and equipment to encamp on the left bank. The limpid stream was not much, if at all augmented. From this side of the country, now that smoke no longer obscured the horizon, the outline of tha great range was very bokl, a lofty and very prominent })yraniid ci'ovvning the most elevated south-western extremity, and forming as im- portant a point for the survey of the country to the south- west, as Mount Riddell presents for that towards the north- west. This point I named Mount Forbes, after my friend Capt. Forbes, 3!Jlli Repiment, then comnianding the mounted CH. VI.] TWO STRANGERS ON HORSEBACK. 137 jjolice in New South Wales. That great range presents three principal heads, of which Mounts Riddell and Forhes are the northern and southern, the central or highest heing Mount Lindesay. Feb. 25. — The party moved to the former encampment at Bullabalakit. In passing near the place, where we set up our tents, on quitting the canvass boats, I sought my buried specimens of rocks, and found, that for once, I had been able to hide, so that the natives could not find. The treasure however consisted only of stones. My notes addressed to Mr. Finch, which I had hidden in trees as we advanced, never escaped their notice, neither had the provisions left for the use of my unfortunate courier Bombelli, at the camp we now again occupied, been suffered to remain, where we had cautiously buried them. All the planks of sawn timber left at our old saw-pit, had been collected in a heap, and partly burnt. From the hill over the camp, the view of the horizon was at length unobscured by smoke, and I found it possible to connect the distant points of the Nundawar range, with those then between us and the colony. Many hills, which I had not before seen to the eastward, were also visible. A heavy thunder shower fell in the afternoon, and it was accompanied by a violent gale of wind, which blew down Mr. White's tent, and very materially injured mine. Feh. 26. — The party continued towards that portion of the Nammoy at which we first arrived, on advancing into those desolate regions, and we passed our old encampment beside the barber's stock-yard near Tangulda. After travell- ing about eight miles we met Mr. Brown of Wallamoul and his stockman on horseback. They had followed our track thus far, on the information, they had received from the native, " Mr. Brown," and were proceeding to examine the barber's stock-yard. They informed us, that our native guide con- fessed to them, that his dread of the savage natives had in- duced him to return. 138 MOUNT WARROGA. [CH. VI. The men caught several large " cod" (Peel's perch), one of which weighed 13 pounds. The river remained unswoUen. Feh. 27. — As we continued our homeward journey, Mr. Brown overtook us. He had found various hrands of his cattle, on portions of hide about the stock-yard. He assured nie, I should find no water at my old encampment, where I intended again to halt, for that he had passed the previous night there without water. I, however, had the satisfaction to find as much as ever on the rocky bed of the water-course, where it is not so liable to be absorbed. Having arrived early at this spot, I again ascended the range, and proceeded along its crests to one of the highest summits, named War- roga. From this point, I could at length recognize Mount Murulla, Oxley's Pic, Moan, and other pinnacles of the Liverpool range, and with which, I now connected my last station upon the Nammoy. From Ydire, a hill nearer the cam^), I also obtained, in returning, some observations, and one angle of great value with Blount Forbes, much required, for the purpose of mapping the country we had explored. On the side of Warroga, we saw a very large black wallaroo, which sat looking at us with apparent curiosity. Scurvy now began to affect the party. We endeavoured to counteract the progress of this disease by plentiful issues of lime juice, and some portable, vegetable soups, but of the latter we had but a very small supply. Dysentery did not alarm us much, for the Doctor generally set the patients to rights in eight and forty hours, with something he found in the medicine chest. Feh. 28. — The morning was fine,* when we again saw the plains of Mullaba, on passing through the gorge under Mount Ydire. As we travelled across the plains, on which the young verdure, first offspring of the late rain, already began to shoot — four emus were observed quietly feeding at • "Fclicissimos cranlos ticmpos," (the weather was fine), suld Cervantes — which words Smollett literally translated, " Happy were the times." Both meanings would apply to our caae then. CH. VI.] RECROSS THE PEEL. 139 no great distance, apparently heedless of our party. I ap- proached them with my rifle, on a steady old horse, and found that this large quadruped, however strange a sight, did not in the least alarm those gigantic birds, even when I rode close up. I alighted, levelled my rifle over the saddle and fired, but missed, as I presumed, for the bird merely performed a sort of pirouette, and then recommenced feedino; with the others as before. I had no means of reload- ing without returning to the party, but I was content with discovering that these birds might be thus approached on horseback — for in general the first appearance of men, al- though miles distant, puts them at once to their speed, which, on soft loose earth, perhaps surpasses that of a horse. The ford of Wallanburra was now our only separation from the christian world. That once passed, we might joy- fully bid adieu to pestilence and famine, the lurking savage, and every peril of " flood and field." Under the sense of perfect security once more, and relieved from the anxiety inseparable from such a charge, every object within the territory of civilized man, appeared to me tinged couleur de rose. The Peel was crossed without difficulty, and on the fol- lowing morning, leaving the party in charge of Mr. White, I commenced my ride homeward through the woods, fol- lowed only by my man Brown ; and on reaching Segenhoe, I forwarded to the Government, my official despatch, an- nouncing the return of the party, and the result of the expedition. On my arrival at Sydney, I learnt, that the life of the con- vict Clarke had been spared, and that my report of the course of the Peel and the Nammoy coinciding, as notified in my first despatch, with his description of these rivers, had en- couraged the Government to place more confidence in his story. It was now obvious, however, that the account of his 140 CONCLUSION. [CH. VI, travels beyond Tangiddii — was little else than pure invention. I examined him in the hulk at Sydney, in the presence of the acting Governor, and was quite satisfied, that he had never been beyond the Nundawar range. Nevertheless he per- sisted in his story of the river, and a party of mounted po- lice, commanded by Captain Forbes of the 39th regiment, repaired to theNammoy, in search of a gang of bushrangers, but not without hopes of finding " the Kindur." That active and enterprising officer reached the Gwydir in lat. 29° 27' 37'' S., long. 150° 5' E. Tracing upwards, its course, or a branch of this river, he arrived near the western extremity of the Nundawar range, and ascended the hill named by him Mount Albuera. Being accompanied by a native oi Bathurst, he ascertained that the aboriginal name of the singular looking hill, forming the western ex- tremity of that range, was " Courada," (the name of the Barber's " burning mountain,") and his plains of " Ballyran" were found to be those crossed by my party, in returning from Snodgrass Lagoon. CuuiuJafroin the Plains. This journey of discovery proved, that any large river flowing to the north-west, must be far to the northward of latitude 29°. All the rivers south of that jjarallel, and which had been described by the Barber as falling into such a river as " the Kindur," have been ascertained to belong wholly to the basin of the Darling. The country we traversed was very eligible in many parts, for the formation of grazing establishments— as a proof of which it may be mentioned, that flocks of sheep soon covered the plains of jNIuHnba, and that the country around thf T^arber's stork-vard, lias ever since the return of the ex- CH. VI.] CONCLUSION. 141 pedition, been occupied by the cattle of Sir John Jamieson. At a still greater distance from the settled districts, much valuable land will be found around the base of the Nunda- wiir range. The region beyond these mountains, or between them and the Gwydir, is beautiful ; and in the vicinity, or within sight, of the highland, it is sufficiently well watered to become an important addition to the pastoral capabilities of New South Wales. MeteorologicalJoiirnal kept during the Expedition to the North-West, com- menced on crossing Liverpool Range, December 5th, 1831. Win DS. Clou - ! Thehjk (in the 1 3ME1 shade *- R •) H A.M. P.M. A.M. P.M. w ■z Si o o • Remarks. Dec. 5. N.W. N.W. Clear. Clear. 70 96 94 86 Hot wind. — 6. — N.N.W. — 64 95 98 90 — — 7. — N.W. Cirrus. Nimbus. 84 92 96 84 A.M., sultry. P.M., thunder & showers. — 8. Calm. S.S.E. Cirro cumulus. Sky clear. 68 81 90 78 — P.M., Sultry. — 9. — N.E. Clear. Clear. 60 89 90 88 Towards evening the wind unsettled. — 10. w.s w. S. Nimbus. Rain. 70 68 66 64 In the morning cloudy, rain in the afternoou. — 11. Light N.N.E. S.S.W. Cumulus. Clear. 63 79 78 75 70 Fine during the day. — 12. S.W. Calm. Cirro cumulus. 60 88 76 — — — 13. N.N.E. S.S.W. Cumulostratus. Cirr\is, Nim- bi below. 68 85 78 66 Thunder with slight showers. — 14. Calm. S.W. Clear. Cirrus. 60 82 80 74 Fine weather. — 15. NN.E. — . Cloudy. 62 80 80 66 Overcast and cloudy. — 16. s.s.w. Clear. Clear. 52 80 72 60 The day clear and fine. — 17. S.W. Calm. — 46 87 74 74 — — — 18. N.W. N.W. — . 52 88 81 76 — — — 19. W. S.W. — Hazy. 46 84 80 70 Strong winds from S.W. — 20. N.W. N.W. 46 92 84 74 Hot wind. — 21. S.W. S.W. — Clear. 45 84 82 70 Fine weather. — 22. Light N. W. N.W. N.N.W. — — 53 92 84 70 Close and sultry. — 23. Calm. ^_ _^ 58 92 90 75 —^ ..« — 24. S.W. — 60 92 94 82 Fine weather. — 25 N.W. — — Cirrostratus. 66 96 95 84 Wind oppressively hot. — 26. — S.S.W. Cirrus. — 68 96 94 86 P.M. a cooling S.W. breeze. — 27. Calm. Light N. W. Air. Clear. Clear. 58 96 94 84 Oppressively hot. — 28. Calm. __ Cirrus. 58 98 94 80 Not a breath of wind. — 29. — — Nimbus. 56 94 91 83 — — — 30. Light N. W. Airs. E.S.E. — — 54 93 87 78 Thunder in the dis- tance. — 31. Calm. Calm. — 53 92 79 74 Fine weather. Jan. ] . N.W. W. — — 61 99 94 82 Excessively sultry nt noon. — 2. — N.W. Cumulostratus. Thund, elds. 69 91 95 88 The breeze pleasantly cool from the N.\V. — 3. .__ Calm. Clear. 73 101 96 87 — Distant thunder. — 4. — N. Cirrus. — 76 108 102 86 Uncommon heat dur- ing the day. — 5. N.N.E. N.W. — Clear. 76 100 98 88 Air from the N.N.E. cool and refreshing. — 6. N.W. Calm. Cirrus and Cu- mulostratus. Cloudy. 77 991 96 88 Mot wind. — 7. W — Thunderclouds. Tluind. elds. 78 100 98 86 A.M. light showers. P.M. clearing off. — 0. N. N.W. Overcast. Overcast. 76 82 82 76 Overcast and threaten- ing rain. — 9. E. N.E. — . . 70 82 80 7f) — — — 10. S.E. E.S.E. Kain. Rain. 70 80 76 71 Light rain. — n. S.S.E. S. — — 68 74 73 70 Heavy rain during the — 12. S.S.W. S.W. Thunderclouds. Thund. elds. 70 86 72 69 day. Thunder, with light showers at intervals. — l.J. N. N.W. . Cirrus. Clear. 71 91 92 71 I'ine weather. — 11. N.E. Niinhus. Cirrus, 75 92 90 7 li — — 15. N. N.E. Clear. — 63 96 92 84 — — — IG. N.N.E, Cirnif. Clear. 69 92 95 87 — — Meteorological Journal continued. 143 Winds. i Clouds. 1 TlIEKMOMETF.R i , 1 ^in the s hade.) 1 O ,, i ?3cr. 2 ~r\ w fz> > H n A.M. P.M. AM. P.M. o o •z 102 Remarks. an.l7. Calm, i S.W. ( I^umulostratus. ' rhund. elds. 71 95 88 "air weather. — 18. N.N.W.j N. Cirrus above Cirrus. 72 94 97 86 .^ — Cumulostratus. — 19. N. N.E. Cumulostratus. Cumulo- stratus. 77 97 96 88 — Hot wind. — 20. N.VV. N.W. Clear. Clear. 76 94 91 84 _^ — 21.^ W.N.W. 74 94 97 86 — ^. — — 22. N.E. E. — Thund. elds. 74 97 92 82 — 23. — N.N.W. Ovprcast. — 75 89- 88 80 Fine but cloudy. — 24. E. E.S.E. Rain. Rain. 73 74 73 70 Steady small rain. — 25. S.E. S.E. Overcast. Overca>t. 68 82 81 68 Continuin^r overcast. — 26. w.s.w. S.W. Cirrus above Cumulostratus. — 58 84 78 62 Z\eax fine weather. — 27. s.w. — Cirrus. — 61 85 88 80 — Fresh breeze. — 28. N.W. Light E. S.E. — Clear. 64 85 86 78 — — — 29. N.N.W. S.W, Cirrus. 66 86 84 78 — 30. N.E. N.N.E. Cirro cumulus. — 65 92 88 76 Fine cool breezes. — 31. — E.N.E. Overcast. — 68 86 83 79 — 7eb. 1. E.N.E. — Cirrus. __ 69 94 90 82 __ ___ — 2. N.E. N.E. — 68 96 89 86 .^ — 3. N.N.E. E.N.E. Clear. Cumulus. 70 97 89 88 Clear but sultry. — 4. E. E.S.E. Cumulus. — 72 98 92 88 — ■— — .5. N.E. N.E. Clear. Clear. 74 98 90 89 . — 6. Light N. E. Airs. — — — 68 97 90 88 — — — 7. E.N.E. — — 70 94 88 82 — 8. S.S.E. S. Cirrus. Cumulus. 70 97 80 84 Cloudy. — 9. S.E. S.E. Clear. Clear. 66 100 96 88 A refreshing breeze. — 10. E.S.E. E.S.E, Cumulus. Cumulus. 68 97 94 84 _ — 11. S.E. E. Clear. Cumulo- stratus. 63 92 93 85 — — — 12. — S.E. — . Clear. 65 97 101 86 — — — 13. S.S.E. E. Cinus. Overcast. 68 97 84 73 .Strong breeze. — 14. E.S.E. Rain. Rain. 7 2 73i 72 72 Heavy rain with strong squalls of wind. — 15. N.N.E. N. — — 74 76 75 72 — — 16. s.s.w. S.S.W. — Cumulus. 73 76 77 72 Changeable, the wind shifting in all quarters. — 17. N.W. — Cirrus. Thund. elds. 69 88 93 83 Fine weather. — 18. N. N.E. Cirrus above cumulus. Cumulus. 68 90 95 80 — — — 19. N.E. N.N.W. Cumulus. 72 96 100 83 Cloudy. — 20. E. N.E. Showers. Thund. elds 69 88 93 83 A.M. showery, and threatening raiu. — 21. N.N.W. N.W. Cumulus. 72 93 98 83 Sultry. — 22. Calm. Calm. Cirrus above cumulus. Clear. 691 94 96 83i — — 23 Night S. Airs. Cumulus. Cumulus. 71 95 96 83 Fine, — 21 Light S. W. W. Cirrus. Cirrus. 72 93 88 82 — — 25 Calm. s. Cirrus above cumulus. Thund. elds 7li 95 96 83 Light thunder showers. — 26 . S.S.W. S.W. Cumulus. Cumulus. 69\ 76 74 70 Fine weather but over- cast. — 27 .Light N E. Light N. E. — — 66 82 84 72 — — . — 28 . South. S. Cirrus above cumulus. Cirrus above cumulus. " 88 87 80 — — — 29 . Calm. N.N.W Overcast. Overcast. j 691 83 80 72 Cloudy, likely to rain. JOURNAL OP AN EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING, IN 1835, BY ORDER OF THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT. EXPEDITION TO THE RIVER DARLING. IN 183o. CHAPTER I. Supposed course of the Darling — Mr. Dixon's survey of the Bogan — Expedition postponed — Description of the Boat-carriage~Number and description of the party — Expedition leaves Paramatta — My departure from Sydney — Western part of Cumberland— County of Cook— The Blue Mountains — Weatherboard Inn— Mounts Hay and Toniah — River Grose — Early attempts to trace it upwards — Intended Tunnel — Pass of Mount Victoria — Advantages of convict labour — Country of Mulgoey — Emu plains— Township — General arrangement of towns and villages — The mountain road — Vale of Clwyd — Village reserve— Granite formation — Farmer's Creek — River Cox aiid in- tended bridge— Mount Walker — Solitary Creek — Honeysuckle Hill — Stony Range — Plains of Bathurst — The town — Inconvenience of want of arrange- ment in early colonization— Small farmers — Intended bridge — Departure from Bathurst — Charley Booth — Road to Buree — Canobolas — Arrival at the camp of the party. On returning- to Sydney from the banks of the Karaula, my attention was immediately drawn to other duties, and especially to those of the department of roads and bridges, which had also been placed under my direction. I did, however, entertain liopes, that I should be permitted at a subsequent period, to continue my journey towards the north-Avest. In May 1833, the local authorities were informed, that His Majesty's Government judged it expedient, an expedition should be undertaken to explore the course of the River L 2 148 MR. DIXON*S SURVEY OF THE BOGAN. [CH. I. Darling, and that this service should be performed by the survey department. Until that time, I had understood the supposed course of the Darling to have been sufficiently evident, but from the necessity for this survey, and circumstances which I had not, imtil then, fully considered, I began to entertain doubts on that subject. It seemed probable, from the divergent courses of the Macquarie and Lachlan, that these rivers might be- long to separate basins, and that the dividing ridge might be the " very elevated range," which Mr. Oxley had seen, ex- tendino- westward between them. It was obvious that this range, if continuous, must separate the basin of the Darling from that of the river Murray. As a preliminary step towards the exploration of the Dar- ling, Mr. Dixon was sent, in October 1833, with instruc- tions to trace the ranges between the rivers Lachlan and Macquarie, by proceeding westward from Wellington Valley. Instead, however, of doing this, Mr. Dixon first followed the Macquarie downwards from Wellington Valley, and then crossing to the Bogan, which flowed at that time bank-high, he followed the course of this river for 67 miles, and finally returned without having seen any of the high land between the Macquarie and the Lachlan, which he had been sent to investigate. A season so favourable for exj)loring that high land, did not occur for four years afterwards, but it was within that period, and during a long continued drought, that the two succeeding expeditions were sent to ascertain the course of the Darling. Preparations had been made for the depaiture of the ex- pedition in the month of March following, but my duties as u commissioner, to investigate claims to grants of land, having been then urgent, the undertaking was deferred until the next season.* * A report had also been required of me by Tiis Majesty's government on the business of my dcpurtment gcncriilly, Jiinl the duties required under a com- mission for a survey and division of the Colony, Kc. CH. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE BOAT-CARKIAGE. 149 In the mean time, two light whale boats were built by Mr. Eager of the dock-yard at Sydney ; and wood was cut for the felloes of wheels which would be required for a boat- carriage and carts, and it was laid up to season in the lumber yard at Paramatta. In completing the equipment for the journey, in the fol- lowing year, at the same place, I was much indebted to the zealous assistance of Mr. Simpson, of the department of roads. The boat-carriage was constructed according to a model, made by my friend Mr. Dunlop, King's Astronomer at Pa- ramatta, and the plan of it will be easily understood by the accompanying figure. One boat was made to fit within the other, the thawrts of the larger or outer one, being taken out. The double boat, thus formed, was suspended on belts of canvass, which supported it buoyant and clear of the frame work. Those parts of the canvass of the carriage, most liable to friction, were guarded with sheepskin and greased hide. The smaller boat was suspended within the larger, also on canvass, so as to swing clear of the outer boat's sides ; and the whole was covered by a tarpaulin, thrown over a ridge poll. Besides Mr. Richard Cunningham, who was attached to the expedition as botanist, Mr. Larmer, a very young assis- tant surveyor, was appointed to accompany me ; the services of the other officers of the department being required for duties within the settled districts. 150 NUMBER AND DESCRIPTION OF THE PARTY. The following men composed the party. [CH. I. Alexander Burnett, Rohert Whiting, William Woods, John Palmer, Thomas Jones, John Souter, Robert 3Iiiirhead, Charles Hammond, John Baldwin, Joseph Herbert, William Thomas, Thomas Murray, Edward Gayton, Charles King, William Baldock, Joseph Jones, John Johnston, John Bulger, Anthony Brown, George Squires, Thomas Reeves, Overseer. Carpenter. Sailors. Medical Attendant. Bullock-drivers. Groom . Shepherd. Blacksmith. Shoemaker. Servant to Major M. Servant to Mr. Cunningham. Servant to Mr. Larmer. Nine of these men (distinguished by italics), had been under my command on my former expedition, and were consequently well acquainted with the service. Their subse- quent steady conduct, also satisfied me, as to their eligibility for the contemplated journey. At noon, on the 9th March, 1835, I had, at length, the satisfaction of seeing this party leave Paramatta, with an equipment fit for the undertaking. The boats appeared to swim very well in their carriage, which was followed by seven carts, and as many pack-horses, affording the means of carrying provisions for five months. Two mountain ba- rometers were borne by two men, the only service required of them, while travelling. The whole party in motion to- wards the unknown interior, and prepared for sea or land, was to me a most gratifying s])ectacle. The cares of prepa- CH. I.] MY DEPARTURE FROM SYDNEY. 151 ration were at an end, and I could still count on three weeks of comparative leisure at Sydney, during which time I could arrange the business of my office. The cattle station at Buree, where I intended to commence operations, was distant 170 miles from Sydney, and as it was necessary, that the party should travel slowly, in crossing the mountains with the boat-carriage ; and equally indispensable that the cattle should rest some days after arriving at Buree ; I calculated, that the expedition could not be ready to advance from that point, in less than three weeks from the time, at which it left Paramatta. On the 31st of March, I quitted Sydney on the important errand of geographical discovery. My horse, which had been in training by Brown for some weeks, seemed impa- tient of roads, and full of spirit, a pleasant sensation, at all times to the rider, and very congenial to the high excitement of such an enterprise. We soon arrived at Paramatta, where I obtained the loan of a good chronometer from Mr. Dunlop, at the observatory. Having noted various important memoranda and suggestions, and partaken of an early dinner, I bade my scientific and obliging friend farewell, and pursued my journey along the western road. I arrived, in a few hours, at Emu ferry, on the river Hawkes- bury, the boundary there of the county of Cumberland. I had traversed the county in its greatest width, by this western route ; and thus crossed by far the best portion. Unlike the northern sandstone district, where the road towards Wiseman's ferry could be made, only by following one con- tinuous ridge, the surface being intersected by deep and pre- cipitous ravines, we were enabled here, the surface rock being trap, to travel along a perfectly straight road over a gently undulating surface. The soil in this district is good, consisting chiefly of decomposed trap. The land is wholly in the hands of individuals, and, in a climate sufficiently moist, would answer well for cultivation. The road passes near 152 THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. [CH. I. Prospect Hill, which is the most conspicuous eminence in the county, and is cultivated to the summit. The rich red soil derived from the subjacent trap-rock, produces crops as abundantly now, as when it was first tilled, upwards of thirty years ago. Nearly the whole of the western portion of this county, consists of soil equally good ; but it remains for the most part occupied by the original wood. It is, however, very gene- rally enclosed by substantial fencing, and affords good pas- turage. There is some rich, alluvial land on both banks of the Hawkesbury, and some of it, near this road, is let for as much as 20s. per acre. The mansion of Sir John Jamieson, situated several miles above Emu, commands an extensive view over that noble stream, the rich margins of which are hemmed in, on the west, by the abrupt precipices of the Blue mountains. The intermediate space beyond the ford, is called Emu plains. At the inn near this ford, I passed the night, being desirous to cross the Blue mountains next day. April 1. — At day-break we crossed the river in the punt. The Hawkesbury is 130 yards broad at this ferry, being the broadest fresh-water stream known in Australia, before the discovery of the Murray. We now entered the county of Cook, so named by me, in considering that its lofty summits must have been the first land, that met the eye of the celebrated navigator, on his first approach to the eastern coast. Here again, we meet with that precipitous, inaccessible kind of country, which dis- tinguishes the sandstone formation, so extensive in Australia. This arenaceous deposit, for a long time, confined the colo- nists within the line of the Hawkesbury, and until the want of fresh pastures, during dry seasons, compelled them to ex- plore these rocky regions. One party succeedcMl in penetra- ting the country to the westward, by following the continuous line of high land, which separates the ravines of the valley of the river Cox on one side, from those which belong to the CH. I.] WEATHERBOARD INN. 153 valley of the Grose on the other. In this direction, the road to the interior country, was accordingly opened by Governor Macquarie; and the ravines, on each side, are too deep and precipitous to admit of any extensive alteration of the line, although it has recently been much improved, especially in the ascent to these mountains above Emu, and in the descent from them to the interior country. These were the chief diffi- culties in making the original road across this mountain mass, as the old passes of Lapstone Hill and Mount York still testify. The upper region being once gained, it presents considerable uniformity of feature, at least along the connecting ridge. The rise is gradual from a height of about 1000 feet above Emu plains, to 3,400 feet its maximum, near King's Table- land, 25 miles further westward. This mass of sandstone is intersected by ravines, deep in proportion to the height of the surface, until the profound depth of the vallies adjacent to the Weatherboard Inn and Blackheath, inclosed by rocky precipices, imparts a wild grandeur to the scenery, of a very uncommon character.* The whole mass consists of a coarse, ferruginous sandstone, composed of angular or slightly worn grains of quartz cemented by oxide of iron. There is scarcely a patch of land, along the line of road, tit for cultivation. One solitary spot, rather better than the rest, has been wisely appropriated for an inn, and at a point very convenient for travellers, being about half way across these mountains. This inn is about 2,800 feet above the sea, and the clouds and temperature give it the climate of England. Potatoes of an excellent quality grow there, also gooseberries ; and a fire is as frequently agreeable as in the latitude of 52° N. The only summits which meet the traveller's eye, above the common horizon, are Mounts Hay and Tomah, situated about twelve miles northward of the road — the river Grose passing between them. These heights consist of trap-rock * Not less remarkable is the fact, that the outlets or mouths of these stu- pendous and extensive vallies on each side, are extremely narroxo ; as is evi- dent on the general map of the colony. What can have become of the mattex" so scooped out ?— (See Ch. 15. Vol. 2.) 154 ROADS AND ROCKS. [CH. I. and grey porphyry, and like Warrawolong,* are crowned with lofty trees. Some idea may be formed of the intricate character of the mountain ravines in that neighbourhood, from the difficulties experienced by the surveyors, in endeavouring to obtain access to Mount Hay. Mr. Dixon, in an unsuccessful at- tempt, penetrated to the valley of the Grose, until then un- visited by any European ; and when he at length emerged from ravines, in which he had been bewildered four days, without reaching Mount Hay, he thanked God (to use his own words in an official letter), that he had found his way out of them. — (See the accompanying A'^iew of the Grose ; also a general view of the sandstone territory, in Vol. 2. PI. .38.) Mr. Govett was afterwards employed by me to make a de- tailed survey of the various ramifications of these ravines, by tracing each in succession, from the general line of road ; and thus by a patient survey of the whole, he ascertained at length, the ridge connected with Mount Hay, and was the first to ascend it. Guided by Mr. Govett, I was thus enabled to place my theodolite on that summit. I found the scenery immediately around it very wikl, consisting of stupendous, perpendicular cliffs, 3000 feet deep, at the foot of which, the silvery line of the Grose, meanders through a green valley, into which, neither the colonists nor their cattle have yet penetrated. Having looked into this valley from the summit of Toniah also in 1827, I was tempted, soon after, to endeavour to explore it by ascending the river from its junction with the Hawkesbury near Richmond ; but 1 had not proceeded far in this attempt, accompanied by Major Lockyer and Mr. Dixon, when we were compelled to leave our horses, and, soon after, to scramble on our hands and feet, until, at length, even our quadrumanous progress was arrested in the bed of the river, by round boulders, which were as large as hoiises, and over, or between which, we found it impossible to proceed. The object, which T lind * See papc f). CH. I.] ROADS AND ROCKS. 155 then in view, with the concurrence of the Governor, was to cari'y the western road along the valley of the Grose, and by cutting' a tunnel, of about a mile, through a ridge at the head of it, to reach the vale of Clywd, and so avoid the mountains altogether. The ascent to them from Emu, and the descent from them at Mount York, were both then ex- tremely bad ; so much so indeed, at the latter pass especially, that a grant of land was publicly offered by the Govern- ment to whoever could point out a better. Both these obsta- cles have since been overcome. The pass of Mount Victoria, named by me after the youthful Princess, and opened by Governor Bourke in 1832, descends at an inclination of 1 in 15 (where steepest), and avoids the abrupt descent by Mount York. The new road from Emu plains, which is still less inclined, has been made during the government of Sir Richard Bourke, and relieves the Bathurst teams from the difficulties of Lap- stone hill, the ascent of which cost them a whole day. Tiie value of convict labour to a young colony, is apparent in these new passes, cut in many places out of the solid rock ; and this advantage will be permanently recorded in these works and others now going forward in different parts of this mountain road, which must finally make it one of the best in the colony. The difference between the lower country, on the Hawkes- bury, and the region which I have endeavoured to describe, is very striking. The rocks are also different, for on the side of Cumberland they consist of trap, and on the other or that of the mountains, of sandstone. The course of the Hawkes- bury above Emu plains, presents a singular feature, in forcing its way through a very steep-sided ravine, and thus cutting off a portion of the mountain mass, after its channel has pre- viously bordered on the lower country of Cumberland, where no such obstruction is opposed to its waters, which might there pursue a more direct course to the sea. The river takes this remarkable turn near the junction of the Ne- pean, and there we find in the bed of the stream, (at 156 ARRANGEMENT OF TOWNS. [CH. I. " Cox's Basin"), a dark coloured trap-rock, apparently con- taining steatitic matter, and doubtless connected with one of the disturbing operations, to which this fractured country has been exposed. Beyond the ferry, the road crosses Emu plains, a level tract, here about a mile in width, and intervening between the river and the base of the mountains. This flat consists chiefly of gravel — composed of large pebbles, for the greater part quartzose ; and in sinking a well, a bed of them was found, in which many were nearly spherical. A township has been marked out at the ascent of the new road, the question as to the most eligible situation for a town on Emu plains, having led to the construction of the new pass. The growth of towns depends very much on the direc- tion of great roads, and must be more certain, and the allot- ments consequently more valuable, when the most eligible line of thoroughfare is ascertained and opened, in the first instance. Such works of public convenience should precede, as much as possible, the progress of colonization. The plan at least should be well considered, before the capital, or the labour, which is the same thing, is applied. Buildings and other improvements can then be commenced with greater certainty of permanent value. " Les depenses utiles sont economic," said Guibert, but in new countries, the economy will much depend on the permanent vitility of works, for which, in most cases, the necessity should be foreseen. With the example of so many old countries for our guidance, ob- structions to the spread of population in a new one, should be removed, according to plans of general arrangement, keeping in view the best distribution of towns, with respect to local advantages, and the best sites for all public buildings requisite for the towns still in embryo. The most advantageous general lines of direction should be ascertained for the roads — that the public means may be applied with certainty to their substan- tial ijuprovcmcnt, by removing obstructions and building bridgf'S. On gocxl roads, there is greater inducement to indi- viduals to erect inns ; and in well arranged streets to build CH. I.] VALE OF CLYWD. 157 good houses — than where uncertainty as to the permanent direction of the one, or irregularity in the plan or line of the other, discourage all such undertakings. It has been my duty to keep these objects in view, as sole commissioner for the division and appropriation of the terri- tory of New South Wales ; and as head also of the department of roads and bridges, I have, as far as lay in ray power, ap- plied the means at my disposal, only to works of a perma- nently useful character, guided as I have been in my judg- ment respecting them, by a general survey of the country. My ride along the mountain road, presented no object worth describing ; but I have frequently found, that the most dreary road ceases to appear monotonous or long, after we have acquired a knowledge of the adjacent country. The ideas of locality are no longer limited like our view, by the trees on each side. The least turn reminds us, that we are passing some " autre vast," or lateral ridge, occupying a place in the map, which thus determines our position. In crossing these mountains an extensive knowledge of the localities relieved the monotony of the road to me, and being insepa- rable from it in my mind, the digressions in this part of my journal, will, after this explanation, perhaps appear less objectionable. Twilight overtook me, as I was giving directions to Sub- inspector Binning for the completion of the pass at Mount Victoria ; and I halted for the night at a small inn at its foot. April 2. — Although some heavy rain had fallen at Sydney, and yesterday during my ride across the mountains, yet the grass in this valley, w^hich at other times had appeared green and abundant, was now parched and scanty. A swampy hollow, across which a long bridge had been erected, was quite dry, and the whole surface bore a brown and dusty aspect. This lower country, to which we had descended from Mount Victoria, was named by Governor Macquarie "the Vale of Clyvvd," from its supposed resemblance to the valley 158 farmer's creek. [ch. i. of that name in Wales. It is enclosed by other heights named Mount York and Mount Clarence, and is watered by a small stream called the river Lett.* A wooden bridge has been erected across this stream, and the site of a village marked out on the bank opposite to it. When such a spot, has once been determined on for the establishment of a town or village, and divided into small allotments, available to blacksmiths, wheelwrights, coopers, innkeepers. Sec. the land is no longer liable to be sold in a section of a square mile, according to the land regulations. Much attention is neces- sary, during the progress of colonization, to prevent the mo- nopoly of the land, in thoroughfares where water is to be had. The convenience of the public, and the encouragement of the mechanic, who is indeed the pioneer of colonists, cannot be sufficiently studied, in affording facilities for the establishment of inns, and the growth of population along great roads. The aspect of this valley is very different from that of the mountain region, and equally so from that of the lower country, on the Hawkesbury. This change is obviously owing to the difference in the rock. Granite appears here, for the first time, on this road ; and we accordingly find those bold undulations, and that thinly wooded surface, which usually distinguish the formation in Australia. It is at this point, in general finely grained, but the felspar partly decomposed, with distinct crystals of felspar unclianged. From the pass of Mount Victoria, I travelled to Bathurst by an entirely new road, opened in a direction, first recom- mended by me in 1827. At fourteen miles from Mount Victoria, is Farmers Creek, so named altera useful horse, which fell there and broke his neck, when I was surveying and marking out tlic line of ro;id. The formation of the descent to this mountain stream wiis ;i work of considcriiblo labour, and at that time several gangs of prisoners in irons, were employed upon it. Crossing Farmer's creek iioiir its junction with Cox's river, the road * A iiiinic (leriveil from rivuhd, mihI h very jjoofl one, being j.liarl. CH. I.] HONEYSUCKLE-HILL. 159 is continued for one mile along the right bank, to the site chosen for throwing a bridge over this river. The ascent on the opposite side has been cut, with unnecessary labour, thi'ough a point of the hill^ and upon this the gangs were then at work. The gangs of prisoners in irons, were lodged in a stockade, which had been erected here, and was guarded by a detachment of the 17th regiment. The river Cox is at this point 2172 feet above the level of the sea. It pursues its course, through a wild inaccessible mountain country, and joins the Warragamba, about twenty miles to the southward of Emu plains. This course of the Cox could be traced by the surveyors only by scrambling on foot, or by following out the several extremities of the mountain ranges, which abut upon its rocky channel. Mount Walker overlooks that part of the Cox, which is crossed by the new line of road. The summit of this hill, consists of a dark grey felspar. At its base, and in the bed of the river, is trap, which appears to be the principal rock of the country, to some distance beyond the river. The road reaches at three miles from the Cox, a small brook, named Solitary Creek, which waters a valley where an inn was then building. This is the first rivulet falling to- wards the interior country, all the other streams, previously crossed by this road, flowing to the eastern coast ; conse- quently the apparently low ridge, between Solitary creek and Cox's river, is there part of what is termed the Coast Range, which extends from Cape Howe to Cape York, across 33 degrees of latitude. The road, beyond Solitary creek, winds around the side of Honeysuckle-hill, a summit of considerable elevation, con- sisting of trap-rock. The country beyond that hill, is more open and favourable for road making. An inn has been built on a small flat, distant about twenty-three miles from Mount Victoria, and about half way between that pass and Balhui'st. The only remarkable I'eature, on the remainder of this line, is Stony Range, distant from Bathurst fourteen 160 BATHURST. [CH. I. miles. It is a ridge of high ground, which traverses the country from north to south, and terminates on the Fish river. The road crosses it at the very lowest part, and where the rock consists of a dark grey felspar, with grains of quartz. The soil is red and rich, and bears trees of uncommon magnitude. The timber is found useful by the inhabitants of the Bathurst district, who keep the sawyers constantly at work there. From Stony Range, the plains of Bathurst appear in the distance to great advantage ; the eye of the traveller from Sydney having long sought, in vain, for some relief from the prospect of so much waste mountainous country. We reach the open plains of Bathurst, six miles from the settlement. I arrived early at Mrs. Dillon's inn, where I took up my quarters, in order that I might complete, with less interruption, a report which I was instructed to make to the Governor from this place, respecting the state of the works along the road. April 3. — My friend Rankin called, and insisted on my accompanying him to his residence at Saltram, which I accordingly did. The houses of the inhabitants here are scattered over the extensive open country, and give a most cheerful appearance to the plains of Bathurst. These fine downs only a few years before, must have been as desolate as those of a similar character still are, on the banks of the Nammoy and Karaula. Peace and plenty now smile on the banks of *' Wambool,"* and British enterprise and industry may produce in time, a similar change on the desolate banks of the Nammoy, Gwydir, and Karaula, and throughout those extensive regions behind the Coast range, still further north- ward,— all as yet unpeopled, save by the wandering abori- gines, who may then, as at Bathurst now, enjoy that security and protection, to which they have so just a claim. The inconvenience of a want of plan for roads and streets, is strikingly obvious at Bathurst. A vast tract had indeed • Native uume for the river Mucquaric. CH. I.] SMALL FARMERS. 161 been reserved as a township, but then no streets having been laid out, allotments for building could neither be obtained by grant nor purchase. The site for the town was, therefore, only distinguished by a government house, jail, court house, post-office, and barracks ; while the population had collected in 60 or 80 houses, built in an irregular manner on the Sydney side of the river, and at the distance of a mile from the intended site of the town. The consequence of a want of arrangement became equally apparent in the line of approach to the township, for the only road, in use, being very indirect, and passing through a muddy hollow, named "The Bay of Biscay," could not be altered, because the adjacent land had been granted to individuals. Thus, when the good people of Bathurst, prayed in petitions for delivery from their "Bay of Biscay," and a dry and more direct line for the road, had been easily found and marked out, the irregular buildings and private property lay in the way of the desired improvement. All these inconveniences might have been obviated, by due attention to such arrangements in the first instance, when any plan was practicable ; w hereas subsequently, it has been found possible to remedy them only in a limited degree. The streets having now been laid out, a church and many houses are in course of erection, and a new road, leading over firm ground, to the site of the intended bridge, has been opened with the consent of the owner of the property. Part of the reserved land of the township, has been given to small farmers — a class very essential to the increase of population, but by no means numerous in New South Wales — and least of all at Bathurst, where the land is laid out chiefly in large sheep farms. A bridge across the Macquarie, has long been a deside- ratum. This river, although in common seasons fordable, and in dry seasons scarcely fluent, is liable, after heavy falls of rain in the mountains, to rise suddenly to a great height, and cut off" the communication between the public buildings on the one side, and the peopled suburbs and great road 1 M 162 CHARLEY BOOTH. [CH. I. from Sydney on the other. The country beyond the Mac- quarie affords excellent sheep-pasturage, the hills consisting chiefly of granite. A number of respectable colonists are domiciled on the surrounding plains, and the society of their hospitable circle, presents a very pleasing picture of pastoral happiness and independence. Aj)ril 4. — It was not until two o'clock that I could conclude my correspondence with the road-making, land -measuring- world, and join a very agreeable party, assembled by my friend Rankin, to partake of an early dinner and witness my departure. Mr. Rankin accompanied me in my ride that afternoon, and we reached at a late hour the house of Charley Booth, distant about 25 miles from Bathurst. Some years had elapsed, since I first passed a night, at Charley's hut or cattle station, then a resting-place for whoever might occa- sionally pass ; and inhabited by grim-looking stockmen, of whom Charley, as my friend called him, seemed one. Now, the march of improvement had told wonderfully on the place. The hut was converted into a housey in which the curtained neatness and good arrangement were remark- able for such an out-station. Mr. Booth himself looked younger by some years, and we at length discovered the source of the increased comforts of his home, in a wife, whom he had wisely selected from among the recently arrived emigrants. April 5. — Here I at length took leave of my friend, to pursue a long and dreary ride along the track which led to Buree. The wood consisted chiefly of those kinds of eu- calyptus, termed box and apple-tree — forming a very open kind of forest, the hollows being in general quite clear of trees. The farther I proceeded westward, the more the country exhibited the withering effects of long drought. The mountain mass of the Canobolas, lay to the southward of my route ; and on crossing the lofty range which here divides the counties of Bathurst and Wellington, the summit CH. I.] THE CANOBOLAS. 163 was distant only four miles. The country in the neighbour- hood of that mass, consists of trap and limestone, and is, upon the whole, very favourable for sheep-farming. The re2;ion to the westward of the Canobolas is still unsurveved, being beyond the limits of the county divisions. Before sun- set, I joined my men " in the merry greene wood," and in my tent, which I found already pitched on the sweet-scented turf, I could at length indulge in exploratory schemes, free from all the cares of office. M 2 CHAPTER II. Ascend the Canobolas — Choose the direction of my route— Ascend the hill north of Buree — Encampon the Miinrladgery — Cross a granitic range — King's Creek — Cross Harvey's range — First view of the interior — Parched state of the interior country — The dogs kill a kangaroo — Steep descent to the westward — Search for water by moonlight — Encamp without any — Follow a valley down- wards and find water — Lifeless appearance of the vallies — Luxury of possess- ing water after long privation — Ascend Mount Juson with Mr. Cunningham — Enter the valley of the Goobang— Meet the natives — Social encampment — Mount Laidley — Springs on the surface of the plains under Croker's range — Cross Goobang Creek — The dogs kill three large kangaroos — Wild honey brought by the natives — Arrive at " Ttindogo" — Allan's water of Oxley — Advantage of aboriginal names on maps — Excursion with Mr. Cunningham — Effects of a hurricane in tlie forest — Encamp without water — Natives leave the party — Cattle distressed for want of water — Mr. Cunningham missing — Desperate search for water — At length find water on reaching by night the river Bogan — Encamp on this river. April 6. — Accompanied by two men carrying barome- ters and my theodolite, I ascended the mountain of the Canobolas, distant from Buree about twelve miles. I was desirous of connecting the map of our intended journey with that summit, because it is a prominent point in my general survey of the colony. It also commands an extensive view towards the country, we were about to explore ; indeed the course of streams, and direction of ranges within thirty-five miles around this mass, seemed only subordinate features. The height of the mountain above the sea is, according to my observations, 4461, G feet, which is much higher than any of the Blue Mountains. I sought in vain, on their azure horizon in the cast, for the numy summits which 1 had as- cended there ; but could distinguish none save Mount Lachlan, tin; position of which, having been well fixed, was, however, sufficient for my jiurpose. Fom this elevated group of the Canobolas, a cliain of heights of ])rini;iry rocks ex- CH. II.] FUTURE ROUTE CHOSEN. 165 tended into the interior ; and the base of the chain appeared to increase in width towards the west, as far as the rivers, on each side of it, had been explored. These were the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee on the south, and the Macquarie, Bogan, and Darling on the north, I considered this high ground would afford the safest line of route, in the winter season to the low interior country ; while the heights would also enable me to extend my survey westward, with more accu- racy, as far as they could be seen on this journey. From the summit, I carefully intersected every prominent point on the western horizon ; and I chose for the direction of my future route, that part, which, while it appeared to be in continua- tion of the most elevated ground, yet had openings between summits, through which, I judged, the party might pass. To the southward, I already beheld Mr. Oxley's various hills, rising like so many islands, from the otherwise level country on the Lachlan ; and, far in the north-west, the level blue horizon, exactly resembled an open sea ; while to the westward, the line of vision was broken by the summits of Croker's and Harvey's ranges. After a careful reconnoi- sance of these and other still more distant features, the country seemed to me most favourable for a passage, on the bearing of 60° west of north. In that direction, therefore, I resolved to proceed ; trusting that He, who led Israel like a flock, would guide and direct our little party, through the Australian wil- derness before us. Aprill . — Early this morning, I ascended the hill to the northward of the old station, and took some angles, for the purpose of determining the position of the house at Buree, from which our measurement was to commence. The party moved forward along a road still for the first 5| miles, when this convenience w'ould serve our purpose no longer, and we struck into the pathless woods. After travelling over some connected hills, and marking the trees as we proceeded, we, at nine miles, reached the head of a chain of ponds, falling- southward, which I named Dochendoras Ponds; and en- 166 CROSS A GRANITIC RANGE. [CH. II. camped beside them in the valley of Miindadgery, where the pasturage was good. The whole country traversed this day, consisted of grassy, open, forest-land. We measured at first with a perambulator from the house at Buree ; but this got out of order, upon which Mr. Larmer, with the chain and circumferenter, continued the measurement. We took with us fifteen sheep from Buree, to try whether this kind of live stock was available on such expeditions. April 8. — While the teams were yoking, I rode forward some miles to examine the country, and I found a very good line for the party to ascend, precisely in the desired direction. On returning, about nine o'clock, 1 put them in motion, and by eleven, we reached a granite formation, the whole country, previously passed, consisting of trap or limestone. The granite formed the crests of a range, and where it occurred, I observed a remarkable change in the vegetation, as well as in the scenery, which was much improved by " pine" trees (callitris pyramidalis)^ w^hose deep green contrasted beau- tifully with the red and grey tinges of the granite rocks, while their respective outlines were opposed to each other with equally good effect. At twelve, I rode to a bold summit of " herbless granite," Avhence I observed the Canobolas, bearing north 122° east, and took angles on several hills. Following the general bearing of 60° west of north, our route extended along beautiful levels and easy slopes, while bold granitic peaks, clothed with " pine," rose on both sides. The grass was excellent, and, even in this remote region, we passed two flocks of sheep. At three o'clock we arrived at the foot of a small pass, the ascent to which was rather steep ; and, while the cattle were toiling upwards, I went forward in search of water, but found none in the valley beyond the pass. Having ascended the next ridge, I again obtained a bearing on tiic Canobolas (121° east of north), and an angle with the Coutombals* (85° 45). On returning, I rode down • For an account of Wellington Valley near the Coutombals, sec appendix to tlie second voiunin. ce. II.] Harvey's range. 167 the valley towards the south-east, where I met Mr. Cunning- ham, who had found a good water hole, (apparently at a spring,) with a large rock in the centre. I accordingly con- ducted the party to it, and we encamped about four p. m. Here we were joined by Charles King, a man whose services 1 had taken some trouble to obtain, and who gave me now a proof of his strength and fitness for such an undertaking, by coming from Emu plains, distant 145 miles, in little more than two days. For this man, I was indebted to Sir John Jamieson. The above feat I thought deserved to be recorded, and I therefore gave his name to the water-course, on which we had encamped. The party was now complete, and I was glad to find that "Dr. Souter," no longer " a new chum," was the best of aood fellows with the other men. He had brought a flute, on which he played tolerably well, either after the acquisition of a kangaroo, or when we had good water, or during any very serene evening. April 9. — As usual, I proceeded some way in advance, marking the line of trees to be followed by the party, and I was fortunate in finding an easier ascent for our wheel car- riages, to the range before us, than I had expected. On descending the opposite side, we entered a fine valley, well watered ; and which, had we known the country better, we might have reached on the previous evening. We next tra- velled over fine forest land, and by keeping some rocky hills, consisting of trap, on our right, we headed the deep ravines and bold ranges, which appeared to branch from them to the northward. Thus, we journeyed along very good ground, the slopes being easy, and unimpeded by timber. At one o'clock, I ascended a pic, and obtained, for the first time since I approached these ranges, an uninterrupted view of the country to the westward of them. From this point, I recog- nised several other hills, observed from the Canobolas, some of which did not appear very distant. A square-topped emi- nence, bearing west-south-west a great way off, I supposed might be Mount Granard ; and a few other heights more to the 168 SEARCH FOR WATER BY MOONLIGHT. [CH. II. westward, crowned what had hitherto appeared to be a flat horizon. I began to discover, however, that, although ap- parently flat, this horizon consisted of low ridges, intersected by vallies, and I hoped to find among the former, one or two rocky points which might be available to my survey. It was now evident that no rain had fallen in these interior regions, since the summer heat had parched the earth. We had passed, to-day, no water except what we saw in the morning, although one green valley, which we noticed on our right soon after starting, probably contained some. A fine kangaroo was this day seen before us, and immediately killed by the dogs. Our journey was prolonged, for the purpose of arriving at a water-hole, but we could not find one. At four o'clock, a view of the country beyond the mountain range, opened before us; and, being anxious to gain the valley which lay at its foot, I hastily efl'ected a descent, although the ground was steep and rocky, in hopes of finding water before it grew dark. Following the valley downwards, I succeeded, but not until sunset, in finding, in a crevice of a rock, enough for the men. The carts were then three miles behind me, and although we sent by moonlight for water for the party, the poor cattle could not be watered, and were consequently kept in their yokes all night, to prevent their straying in search of it. Having examined the bed of the dry creek, to some distance below the rock, where the water remained, I found its course so sinuous, and its banks so steep, the valley itself having no breadth, steep-sided hills closing on the deep dry channel, so that it must have been almost impossible to proceed that way with the party. I therefore, determined to explore the country, more to the right, early next morning, expecting to find, in that direction, a line of route by which we might be sooner extricated from these sinuous valleys and hilly extre- mities. I hoped also that we should thus reach some more united chanii(;l, deep enough to rotiun a portion of the waters of more favourable seasons. CH. II.] LUXURY OF WATER AFTER PRIVATION. 169 AjJril 10. — I went forward fprimd luce J, and soon gained a low ridge, the rocky points of which had obhged me to keep to the valley in seeking for water the preceding evening. From this ridge, I had the satisfaction of following with my eye into the far distant level country, a continuous valley, the apparent outlet or channel of all these mountain torrents, and Avhich, I had no doubt, contained water. Having marked out the best passage I could find, to this point for the bullock teams, I descended to the valley before me, and, after following it about four miles, the hollows in the dry bed of the rivulet appeared moist. At two miles further, I found water in the crevices of a rock, and a little lower still, abundance for the cattle in a large pond. After watering my thirsty horse, I galloped back with the encouraging tidings to the party, and by eleven o'clock we had encamped beside the water, with the agreeable certainty of obtaining breakfast, and with excellent appetites for it. We had passed through vallies, on first descending from the mountains, where the yellow oat-grass (or antkistirici), resembled a ripe crop of grain. But this resemblance to the emblem of plenty, made the desolation of these hopeless soli- tudes only the more apparent, abandoned as they then were, alike by man, beast, and bird. No living thing remained in these vallies, for water, that element, so essential to life, was a want too obvious in the dismal silence, (for not an insect hummed), and the yellow hues of withering vegetation. We had, at length, emerged from these arid valleys, and entered upon an open and more promising country. Our boats and heavily leaden carts had crossed all the mountains in our way, without any accident, and we had water in abundance. It is on occasions such as these, that the adventurer has intervals of enjoyment, which amply reward him for laborious days of hardship and privation. The sense of gra- tification and repose, is intense, in such extreme cases, and 170 MEET THE NATIVES. [CH. II. cannot be known to him, whose life is counted out in a mo- notonous succession of hours of eating- and sleeping within a house; whose food is adulterated by spices, and sauces, intolerable to real hunger — and whose drink, instead of the sweet refreshing distillation from the heavens, consists of vile artificial extracts, loathed by the really thirsty man, with whom the pure element resumes its true value, and esta- blishes its real superiority over every artificial beverage. April 11. — At seven o'clock, I proceeded, with Mr. Cun- ningham, to the summit of a cone, bare of timber, which I had observed from the Canobolas, and which bore 138° E. of N. from our camp, distant about six miles. The ascent was easy, and from the summit, (on which Mr. C. obligingly erected a pyi'amid), I obtained many valuable angles with my theodolite, on the very distant hills, which broke the western horizon. We found the variation of the needle to be 8° 40' E. This hill I named, at Mr. Cunningham's request. Mount Juson. We returned to the camp at half- past two, when we found the party ready to start ; and, ac- cordingly, we proceeded forward. Our journey was throuo-h verdant vales, increasing in width as we followed the chan- nel of the stream, we had traced from the mountain, and which now contained abundant pools of water. At length the sound of the native's hatchet was heard, and one came forward to meet me. We learned from him, that we were upon " Buriinbil" creek, and that its course was south-west towards the *' Calare," or Lachlan. The range, whence we came, they called " Warre" (Croker's range of Oxley), and that north of it, Goobang (Harvey's range of the same), from which, as I was also informed, a creek of similar name issued and flowed into the Burunbil The evening was beautiful ; the new grass springing in places where it had been burnt, presented a shining verdure in the rays of the descending sun ; the songs of the birds ac- corded here with other joyous sounds, the very air seemed alive with the music of animated nature, so different was the CH. II. j SOCIAL ENCAMPMENT. 171 scene in this well-watered valley, from that of the parched and silent region from which we had just descended. The natives, whom we met here, were fine looking men, enjoying contentment and happiness, within the precincts of their native woods. Their enjoyment seemed derived so directly from nature, that it almost excited a feeling of regret, that civilized men, enervated by luxury and all its concomitant diseases, should ever disturb the haunts of these rude but happy beings. The first native who came up to me, was a fine specimen of man in an independent state of nature. He had nothing artificial about him, save the badge of mourning for the dead, a white band (his was very white), around his brow. His manner was grave, his eye keen and intelligent, and as our people were encamping, he seemed to watch the moment when they wanted fire, and presented a burning stick, which one of the natives had brought, in a manner expressive of welcome, and an unaffected wish to contribute to our wants. At a distance their gins sat at fires, and we heard the domestic sound of squalling children. The scene assumed a more ro- mantic character when, " like a queen came forth the lovely moon From the slow opening curtains of the clouds. Walking in beauty to her midnight throne,''* and the soft notes of the Doctor's flute fell pleasingly on the ear, while the eye was equally gratified by the moon- beams as they shot from the trees, amid the curling smoke of our temporary encampment. The cattle were refreshing in green pastures. It was Saturday night, and next day the party was to rest. We had reached in one month, from Syd- ney, the plains leading to the Darling, having placed all the mountain ranges behind us, and these reflections heightened our enjoyment of the scene around us, and sweetened our repose. April 12. — Accompanied by Mr. Cunningham and three * Croly's Gems. 172 CROSS GOOBANG CREEK. [CH. II. men, carrying- my theodolite, sextant, and barometer, I as- cended a summit at the southern extremity of Harvey's range, and which I had observed particularly from Mount Juson, as being the most eligible point to form, in connection with that range, a base for extending the survey westward. This hill was clear of timber, and, as it commanded an unin- terrupted view in that direction, I intersected every point observed from Mount Juson. The highest summit of Cano- bolas was just visible over the intermediate ranges, and, what was also of equal importance, that of the Coutombals. These ranges, already mentioned in another place, consist of a group of lofty hills, situated about 12 miles to the S.S.W. of Wellington valley, and being connected with the general survey, enabled me here to fix this station correctly. As we returned across the lower country towards our camp, we observed some places unusually green, and found that this verdure was nourished by springs, the water lying on the surface, so that in a season when the beds of almost all streams were dry, we watered our horses on an extensive flat of forest land. Such springs must be of very rare occur- rence in this country, for in the course of my journies, 1 had never before seen any. The hill, thus connected with the survey, I named Mount Laidley. April 13. — The party moved off at half-past eight o'clock, and at half-past nine it crossed Goobang creek, or chain of ponds. This channel contained some deep pools, apparently proof against the summer drought. The Goobang has its sources in the ravines between Harvey's and Croker's ranges, the coarse being towards the Lachlan. In this and other tributaries of the same river, I observed, that all the per- manent pools were surrounded by reeds. As we j)roceeded beyond the Goobang, chiefly in a north- west direction, we found the country tolerably level, and to consist of what in the colony is termed " open forest land." We crossed one or two eminences, but the carts met with no impediment in a journey of fifteen miles. CH. ir.] WILD HONEY. 173 The principal hill, consisted of trap-rock, and was so naked, that only one or two trees of the stirculia heterophylla grew upon it. The native name for it was " Pakormungor," and from its top, I recognized Mounts Juson and Laidley, and near me various low features, which I had intersected from those stations. The rock, in other places less elevated, consisted of schist or slate in laminse, dipping to the east at an angle of 60°. Some very rich iron-stone also occurred on the surface. This day, three large kangaroos were killed by our dogs, one of them having been speared very adroitly during the chase, by a native, who accompanied us from our last encampment. From Pakormungor the country began to decline to the northward, and, as we descended into the basin of the Bogan, it improved in grass. Tlie acacia pendula occurring here, reminded me of the banks of the Nammoy ; and Mr. Cun- ningham had a busy day in examining many interesting plants, which he had not previously seen on this journey. We at length encamped on a lagoon, to which the natives led us, and which they named " Cookopie." We were now in a " land flowing with honey," for our friendly guides, with their new tomahawks, extracted it in abundance, from the hollow branches of the trees, and it seemed that, in the proper season, they could find it almost everywhere. To such inexpert clowns, as they probably thought us, the honey and the bees were inaccessible, and indeed invisible, save only when the natives cut the former out, and brought it to us in little sheets of bark, thus dis- playing a degree of ingenuity and skill in supplying wants, which we, with all our science, could not hope to attain. Their plan was to catch a bee, and attach to it, with some resin or gum, the light down of a swan or owl ; thus laden, the bee would make for its nest in the branch of some lofty tree, and so betray its store of sweets to its keen-eyed pur- suers, whose &ee-chase presented, indeed, a laughable scene. April 14. — We continued in a west or south-west direction, 174 UTILITY OF ABORIGINAL NAMES. [CH. II. passing " Goonigal,"* a large plain on our right, near which there was a fine tract of open forest land. The ground afterwards rose in gentle undulations, and was covered with kangaroo grass ;t the soil changing also, from clay to a red sandy loam. We next arrived at a creek, or chain of deep ponds, called " Coogoorderoy," which appeared to come from the south- south-west. Further on, we passed plains on our left, of the same name; and, at length, we crossed a fine one, the native name of which was " Turangenoo." On the skirt of it, was a hill named "Boorr," which we kept close on our left, crossing its lower extremities, which were covered with a forest of iron-bark eucalyptus, and forest oaks or casuarincs. At four o'clock we reached' '■• Tandogo/' a fine creek of water de- scending from the south, and flowing to the Bogan. A hill to the north-west, I was informed, was named the Bugamel. April 15. — I halted to lay down my survey, and connect it with that of Mr. Dixon of the Bogan. At noon, I found our latitude to be 32° 45' 30'' S. and on making allowance for the difference between Mr. Oxley's base (as to longi- tude) and my own, I supposed we were then upon " Allan's Water" of Oxley. In this instance, as in many others, the great convenience of using native names is obvious. For instance, so long as any of the aborigines can be found in the neighbourhood of "Tandogo," future travellers may verify my map. Whereas, new names are of no use in this respect, especially when given to rivers or water-courses, by travellers who have mirely crossed them, without ascertaining their course, or oven their sources, or termination. He, alone, should be entitled to give a name to a river, who explored its course, or, at least, as much of it as may be a useful addition to geography ; and when a traveller takes the trouble to determine the true place of hills or other features, he might • This we found afterwards to be the native term for any plain. t Anthistiria AustraUs. CH. II.] EXCURSION WITH MR. CUNNINGHAM. 175 perhaps be at liberty to name them also. The covering a map with names of rivers or hills, crossed or passed, merely in traversing an unknown country, amounts to little more than saying, that so many hills and rivers were seen there ; and if nothing were ascertained further of the connections of the former, or the courses of the latter, we derive from such maps, little more information than we had before ; for that hills and rivers are to be seen in any unknown part of a country, is generally understood to be the case, before a traveller commences his journey. A future explorer, deter- mines, with much trouble the position of a river in the world's map. '* This is my river B ," says the man who crossed it first, or who, by merely stumbling perhaps upon it, claims all the merit of its discovery, even when circum- stances may have forced him to proceed in that direction, rather than that he was looking for what he found, under the guidance of any analogy, or series of observations. In the afternoon I rode back to the hill of " Boorr " (seven miles) with the theodolite, and I obtained some useful angles to various points of Harvey's range, and on such few emi- nences as could be distinguished in other directions. April 16. — Mr. Larmer went forward with the carts in a north-west direction, while I proceeded westward, accom- panied by Mr. Cunningham, towards a hill, which I had intersected from Mounts Juson and Laidley, and which I expected to find at about nine miles west by compass, from our camp. We continued along an undulating ridge for about five miles, crossing also a flat on which all the trees, for a considerable extent, had been laid prostrate by some violent hurricane, making a very uncommon opening in the forest through which we were accustomed to travel. The trunks lay about due east, and all nearly parallel ; thus recording a storm from the west, before which our tents must have gone "like chaff before the wind," and where shelter from the trees, not under them, might have been sought for in vain. 176 ROCKS OF BENY. [CH. II. At 7| miles, we crossed a chain of small ponds falling to the north (probably Coysgaime's ponds of Oxiey) and about one mile further, we ascended the northern shoulder of the hill, I was in search of. Fiom the summit, 1 obtained angles on one or two hills to the south, which lay a few miles off, but I could not recognize them, as having been previously intersected. We descended and proceeded northward through the dense woods, in the midst of which, after estimating dis- tances and time, I at length pulled my rein, and observed to Mr. Cunningham, that I hoped to fall in with Mr. Larmer, or the track of the carts thereabouts. Just then I heard the crack of a whip, and we soon met Mr. Larmer at the head of the party. I continued the route in the same direction until after sunset, when we were obliged to encamp without reaching water. Bulger however, with the assistance of the natives, found some, after the rising of the moon, but not until he had been nearly three miles to the northward in search of it. The cattle could not be watered there that night, as they had already travelled upwards of 15 miles. I was aware, that I might have made the Bogan by pro- ceeding more towards the north ; but I preferred the direct line of route, even at the risk of encountering a scarcity of water. In the more northerly course, we should have en- tered a great bight of that river, whereas I was making for its most southern bend, which was not only in the most direct line towards Oxley's Table-land, but was also nearer the hills, along which I was desii'ous of working my survey. April 17. — We moved off at 8 o'clock, and at the distance of 3j miles we came upon some curious rocks of red sand- stone, forming the tops of a ridge which extended N. N. E. It is called Bcny by the natives, and in a deep crevice, there is a well, the water of which, although at times appa- rently deep, had the previous night, been drained nearly to the bottom by a party of some tribe, whose fires still were burning. CH. II,] MR. CUNNINGHAM MISSING. 177 The natives who accompanied us, examined the traces of those who had fled, with considerable interest, and then fell behind our party and disappeared. From the highest of these rocks, I obtained some good angles and bearings on the hills, I had seen on the day previous, and also on some of the loftiest summits of Harvey's range. Our cattle, having had no water during the night, began to be distressed, and I hurried forward, marking out the line, and we thus crossed, at five miles beyond the rocks of Beny, the dry bed of what appeared to be sometimes the channel of a considerable stream of water ; its sides and bottom were, however, then grassy ; its depth and breadth very uniform, while the general course appeared to be N.N.E. but very tortuous. At four o'clock I had continued to mark the line. Being then six miles beyond this channel, and anxious about finding- water for the cattle, I galloped forward three miles, in search of the Bogan, but without reaching it. The sun of this very hot day, was near setting by the time I met our party, to whom I had hastened back. They had travelled two miles beyond the dry creek, which it was my intention now to trace downwards as fast as possible, fol- lowed by all our animals, in hopes that it would lead to water. While the men were unyoking the teams, I was informed, that Mr. Cunningham was missing. The occa- sional absence of this gentleman was not uncommon, but, as he had left the party early in the day, in order to join me, it was evident, from his not having done so, that he had gone astray. At that moment, 1 felt less anxiety on the sub- ject, little doubting that he would gain our camp, before I returned from the forlorn search, I was about to make for water. Leaving Mr. Larmer with the rest of the party to encamp there, 1 proceeded eastward towards the dry creek, whose course I soon intercepted, and I hurried the bullock- drivers along its bed downwards, until, after crossing many 1 N 178 REACH THE RTVER BOGAN. [CH. II. a hopeful hut dry hole, they begged, that the cattle might be allowed to rest. Leavmg them, therefore, I continued my search with the horses, still following the channel, until I had the happiness of seeing the stars of heaven reflected from a spacious pool. We had, in fact, reached the junction of the creek with the Bogan. Having filled our kettles and leathern bottles, we hastened back, to where we had left the bullocks. Leaving them to go forward, and refresh, I set off at a venture, on the bearing of south-west by south, in search of our camp. After an hour's riding, the moon rose, and at length our cooy was answered. I had previously observed, by the moon's light, the track left by my horse that morning in the long dry grass, and verified it by some of my marks on the trees. Would that Mr. Cunningham had been as fortunate ! At that time I did not doubt, that I should find him at the camp ; especially as we heard no guns, it being a practice in the bush to fire shots, when persons are missing, that they may hear the report, and so find the party. I then made sure of a pleasant night's rest, as I was relieved from my anxiety respecting the cattle. I had the pain to learn, however, on reaching the camp about eleven o'clock, that Mr. Cunningham was still absent ; and, what was worse, in all probability suffering from want of water. I had repeatedly cautioned this gentleman, about the danger of losing sight of the party in such a country ; yet his carelessness in this respect was quite surpi-ising. The line of route, after being traversed by our carts, looked like a road that had been used for years, and it was almost impossible to doubt, then, that he would fall in with it next morning. April 18. — We continued to fire shots and sound the bugle till eleven o'clock. Our cattle were then ready to drink again, and as Mr. Cunningham was pi'obably a-head of us, to proceed on our route to the Bogan without further delay was indispensable, in order that we might, in case of need, make such extensive search for him, as was only possible from a camp where we could continue stationary. CH. II.] ENCAMP ON THE BOGAN. 179 We accordingly proceeded towards the Bogan/ anxiously hoping, that Mr. Cunningham would fall in with our line, and rejoin the party in the course of the day. After pro- ceeding due north eight miles, we came upon the bed of this river ; but, before I could find water in it, I had to trace its course some way up and down. We at length encamped near a pond, and night advanced, but poor Mr. Cunningham came not ! N 2 CHAPTER III. * Search for Mr. Cunningham — No traces to be seen— Supposed to have met with an accident — Souter and Murray sent back along the track — Search S. S. W. 40 miles — Intervievc with two natives— Range of porphyry — Mr. Cunningham's track found— Mr. Larmer and a party sent to trace it — Mr, Cunningham's track followed for 70 miles, his horse found dead — His own footsteps traced— Mr. Larmer meets a tribe— The footsteps traced into the channel of the Bogan— Death of the kangaroo— Reflections— Five natives brought to me with a silk handkerchief in their possession — Their names — The party halt at Cudduldury — Interview with the King of the Bogan — Muirhead and Whiting sent to examine the dry channel of the river — Search extended to the plains of the Lachlan — Camp of natives— Pass the night in a hollow without water — View towards Mount Granard — A second night without water — Awoke by the forest on fire — Interview with three natives — Roots of trees sucked by the natives— Horses reach the camp with great difficulty — Part of Mr. Cunningham's coat found. Ajjril 19. — After an almost sleepless nigbt, I rose early, and could relieve my anxiety only by organizing- a search, lo be made in different directions, and getting into movement as soon as possible. The darkness of a second night of dreary solitude, had passed over our fellow-traveller, under the accumulated horrors of thirst, hunger, and despair! It was most mysterious, that he had not fallen in with our line of route, which was a plain, broad road, since the pas- sage of the carts ; and had a direction due north and south for ten miles. The last time, he had been seen, was twelve miles back, or about two miles from the dry bed of the creek, (since named Bullock creek,) where I changed the direction, fraiM north-west by compass, to due north, that I might sooner reacli the Bogan, for thesakeof water. It was ])robable, that in follo\nng my marked trees without much attention, he had not observed the turn I took there, and that continuing in the same direction, beyond the creek, he iiad therefore lost tlxMi), and had proceeded too far to the westward. This was CH. III.] SEARCH FOR MR. CUNNINGHAM. 181 the more likely, as the dry creek was on the eastward of our line ; where, had he gone that way, he must have found our cattle-tracks, or met with the cattle. I, therefore, determined to examine myself the whole country westward of our line for twelve miles back. I sent the Doctor and Murray, west by compass six miles, with orders to return in a south-east direc- tion, till they intersected the route, and then return along it ; and I sent two other men back along the route, in case our missing friend might have been coming on in a weakly state that way. All three parties carried water and provisions. I proceeded, myself, with two men on horseback, first, seven miles in a south-west direction, which brought me into the line, Mr. Cunningham might have followed, supposing he had continued north-west. The country I traversed, consisted of small plains, and alternate patches of dense casuarina scrubs, and open forest land. I seldom saw to less distance, about me, than from one to two miles, or at least as far as that in some one direction. We continued to cooy frequently, and the two men were ordered to look on the ground for a horse's track. In the centre of a small plain, where I changed my direc- tion to the south-east, I set up a small stick with a piece of paper fixed in it, containing the following words, " Dear Cunningham, "These are my horse's tracks, follow them backwards, they will lead you to our camp, which is N. E. of you. "T. L. Mitchell." Having proceeded in the same manner, seven miles to the south-east, I came upon our route where it crossed Bullock creek, and there I found the two men, who had been sent from the camp. We then continued our search back along the west side of our route, the party, which now consisted of five, spreading so as to keep abreast at about 200 yards from each other, one being on the road. We thus ascertained that no track of Mr. Cunningham's horse or of himself appeared on the soft 182 NO TRACES TO BE SEEN. [CH. III. parts of our road; and although we retraced our steps thus to where Murray, one of the men, said he saw Mr. Cunning- ham the last time with the party, no traces could he found of him or his horse. A kangaroo dog was also missing, and supposed to be with him. Returning, we continued the search, and particularly to the westward of Bullock creek, where the direction of our route had been changed ; but I was disappointed in all our endea- vours to find any traces of him there, although I enjoyed, for some time, a gleam of hope, on seeing the track of a horse near the bed of the creek, but it returned to our line, and was aftei-wards ascertained to have been made by the horse of Mr. Larmer. Although scarcely able to walk myself, from a sprain, (my horse having fallen in a hole that day, and rolled on my foot), I shall never forget with what anxiety, I limped along that track, which seemed to promise so well ; yet we were so unsuccessful that evening, on the very ground where, after- wards, Mr. Cunningham's true track was found, that I could no longer imagine, that our unfortunate fellow-traveller could be to the westward. t By what fatality, we failed to discover the tracks after- wards found there, I know not ; but, as the sun descended, we returned once more to the camp, in the hope that Mr. Cunningham might have reached it. That hope was soon disappointed, and I became apprehensive that some accident had befallen him. Holes in the soft surface and yawning cracks, formed rather a peculiar feature in that part of the country ; and as my horse had fallen both on this day and the preceding, when at a canter, and as Mr. Cunningham was often seen at that pace, it was probable, that he might have met with some severe fall, and lay lielpless, not far, perhaps, from where he had last been seen. The nights wei-e cold, and I was doubtful whether he could be still alive, so difficult was it to account, otherwise, for his continued absence under all the circumstances. CH. III.] LINE OF ROUTE RETRACED. 183 April 20. — After another night of painful anxiety^ the dawn of the tki?-d day of Mr. Cunningham's absence, brought some relief, as daylight renewed the chance of finding him, or of his finding us by our line, as he might have endeavoured to retrace his steps on losing the party, or he might be on our route still farther back than we had looked ; but I was desirous that the natives whom we had left at Beny might be sent in search. I despatched the Doctor and Murray back along the line, the latter saying, that he knew Avhere Mr. Cunningham had turned off" the road. It was not unlikely that the horse, if he had got loose, might have returned to where he had last drank water (20 miles distant), therefore, they were directed, if traces were not found nearer, to go so far back, and to promise the natives, if they could meet with any, tomahawks, &c. if they found the " white man," or "his horse." No other course could be imagined. The line of route, as already stated, was a beaten road, and extended north and south. To the east of it, and nearly parallel, at two or three miles distance, was the dry channel (Bullock creek), which led to the Bogan ; on the north was our camp and the Bogan, whose general course was west, as well as our intended route, circumstances both known to Mr. Cun- ningham. Southward was the marked route, and the country whence we had come. Still, however, I thought it so likely, that he must have gone to the north-west, when we changed our route to north, that I determined, although my sprained ankle was painful, to examine again, and still more exten- sively, the country into which such a deviation must have led him. April 2\. — I proceeded in a south-south-west direction, (or S. 17° W. by compass), or on an intermediate line between our route and the north-west line, by which I had explored that country on the nineteenth, the men cooying as before. We explored every open space ; and we looked into many bushes, but in vain. 184 INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. [CH. III. I continued my journey far to the southward, in order to ascertain what water was nearest in that direction, as it was probable, were any found, that Mr. Cunningham, if alive, must have reached it, and I had in vain sought his track on the other side of the country. I soon came to undulating ground, or low hills of quartzose gravel without any grass, consisting of unabraded small angular fragments of quartz. 1 observed a few trees of the iron-bark eucalyptus, and pines or callitris, on the highest grounds. At twenty miles from our camp, we crossed a grassy flat, in which we at length found a chain of ponds, falling to the south-south-east, and also about them were recent marks of natives. At length I espied two at a distance, as I proceeded along the valley. In vain we cooyed, and beckoned to them to approach ; it was clear they would not come to us ; on seeing which, I left the men and horses and walked towards them, carrying a green bough before me. They seemed at once to under- stand this emblem of peace ; for, as soon as I was near enough for them to see it, they laid down their spears and waddies, and sat down on the ground to receive me. Not a word, however, could they understand, being evidently quite strangers to the colonists. They were both rather old men, but very athletic, and of commanding air and stature, the body of one was painted with pipe-clay, that of the other with yellow ochre ; and through these tints their well-defined muscles, firm as those of some antique torso, stood out in bold relief in the beams of the setting sun. The two made a fine group, on which dress would have been quite super- fluous, and absolutely a blot on the picture. No gesture of mine could convey the idea, with which I wished so much to injpress them, of my mdivoh^ov another white man, and after using every kind of gesture, in vain, J made a bow in despaii", and departed. They rose at the same tiuje, apparently glad (from fear; to jjCc me going, and motioned, as if to say, *' you may depart now, we are friends.'' f )iic! of them who sat behind, and wlio appeared to be the older of CH. Ill] SEARCH SOUTH-AVEST. 185 the two, had a bone-haudlecl table-knife stuck in the band over his forehead ; one had also an iron tomahawk. The rest of the tribe were concealed about, as we heard their cooys, but no others ventured to appear. I thought, I coukl not give them further proof of no harm being intended to them, than by quietly going on my way, and I hoped that this friendly demonstration might remove any apprehensions re- specting Cunningham, if he chanced to meet the tribe. The greatest danger to be apprehended from natives, is on a stranger first approaching them, when, chiefly from fear, they are apt to act on the offensive. Continuing on the same line, I crossed another small water- course, falling north-east ; and beyond it were hills o^ mica- schist and quartz, which sloped rather boldly to the south- ward. We then entered one of the finest tracts of forest land I ever saw. It was there three miles in width, and bounded on the south by another low hill of quartzose gravel, the soil of which was indifferent. We at last tied up our horses on a little patch of forest land, and laid down under a few boughs, as it was quite dark and began to rain. April 22. — After a fruitless ride of twelve more miles, still further southward, in pursuit of distant columns of smoke, we turned our horses' heads towards the camp, on a bearing ofN.56° E.,in which direction some summits appeared. We crossed much good whinstone land, and arrived at a small ridge, where 1 ascended a hill, consisting of a reddish granite or porphyry. From this height I again saw Harvey's and Croker's ranges, and various hills to the southward, but I was disappointed in the view of the western horizon, which was confined to a very flat-topped Avoody range. I took as many angles as I could, from a round pinnacle of porphyry, which barely afforded standing room. From this hill, we saw smoke near another eminence, which bore N. 36° E., distant about seven miles ; and in that direction, we proceeded (as it led homewai'ds), but twilight overtook us, as we crossed its side, on which the bushes appeared to have been recently burnt. 186 MR. Cunningham's track found. [ch. hi. This hill consisted of a rock j-eseinbling- felspar, and was connected with the former, which was of granite, by low hills consisting- of schistus and trap. The former had good grass about it, and produced a chain of well-filled ponds, but here we found no water, having arrived so late. The country in general was, (in point of grass at least) much better than the rotten ground on the banks of the Bogan. The water also, although scarce, was much better, and I heartily regretted, that it was not in my power to proceed, according to my original plan, along this higher ground, in my progress towards the Darling. April 2.3. — Early this morning, I ascended the hill, al- though much incommoded by my sprained ankle, which obliged me to ride my horse over rocks, to the very summit. I could perceive no more smoke. The Canobolas were just visible to the right of Mount Juson. The height on which I stood, seemed to be the furthest interior point of this chain, whence those hills could be seen. We left the summit at nine o'clock, and proceeded towards our route on a bearing of N. 17° E. At ten miles, we halted to allow the horses to pick some green grass in a casuarina scrub ; and then, after riding two miles further, we reached our marked route, at about three miles back from Bullock creek. We saw no traces on it, of the men I had sent back, for which I was at a loss to account ; but I readily turned every circumstance, even my own ill success, in favour of the expectation, that I should find Mr. Cunningham in the camp on my return : thus hope grew even out of disappointment. There, however, I learned, that the two men sent back, had at length found Mr. Cunningham's track, exactly where we had at first so diligently sought for it, and that they had traced it into the country, which I had twice traversed in search of him in vain, and, more distressing than all, that they had been (•oinj)elled to leave the track the preceding evening for want of rations ! Tiity had been, however, sent back to take it up, and we anxiously awaited llie result. Ajnit 24. — Late in the evening the two men, (the Doctor CII. III.] HIS HORSE FOUND DEAD. 187 and Murray), returned, having lost all further trace of Mr. Cunningham, in a small oak scrub. They had distinctly seen the track of the dog with him, and that of his own steps beside those of the horse, as if he had been leading it. April 25. — Early this morning, I despatched Mr. Larmer and the Doctor, Muirhead and Whiting, supplied with four days' provisions and water. The party was directed to look well around the scrub, and on discovering the track to follow it, wherever it led, until they found Mr. Cunningham or his remains ; for in such a country, I began to despair of disco- vering him alive, after so long an absence. They did not return until the evening of the 28th, when all they brought of Mr. Cunningham, was his saddle and bridle, whip, one glove, two straps, and a piece of paper folded like a letter, inside of which were cut (as with a penknife) the letters N. E. Mr. Larmer reported, that having easily found the track of the horse, beyond the scrub, they had followed it, until they came to where the horse lay dead, having still the saddle on, and the bridle in its mouth ; the whip and straps had been previously found, and from these circumstances, the tortuous track of the horse, and the absence of Mr. Cun- ningham's own footsteps for some way, from where the horse was found ; it was considered that he had either left the animal in despair, or that it had got away from him. At all events, it had evidently died for want of water ; but the fate of its unfortunate rider was still a mystery. It appeared from Mr. Larmer's map of Mr. Cunningham's track, that he had deviated from our line after crossing Bullock creek, and had proceeded about fourteen miles to the north-west, where marks of his having tied up his horse and lain down, induced the party to believe, that he had there passed the first dreary night of his wandering. From that point, he appeared to have intended to return, and by the zig-zag course he took, that he had either been travelling in the dark, or looking for his own track, that he might retrace it. In this manner, his steps actually ap- 188 MR. Cunningham's supposed course, [ch. iii. proaclied within a mile of our route, but in such a manner, that he appeared to have been going south, while we were travelling north, (on the 18th). Thus, he had continued to travel southward, or south-south-west, full 14 miles, crossing his own track not far from where he first quitted our route. On his left, he had the dry channel (Bullock creek), with the water-gum-trees (eucalypti), full in view, though without ever looking into it for water.* Had he observed this channel, and followed it downwards, he must have found our route ; and had he traced it upwards, he must have come upon the water-holes, where I had an interview with the two natives, and thus, perhaps, have fallen in with me. From the marks of his horse having been tied to four different trees, at the extreme southern point which he reached, it appeared, that he had halted there some time, or passed there the second night. That point was not much more than half a mile to the westward of my track out on the 21st. From it, he had returned, keeping still more to the westward, so that he actually fell in with my track of the 19th, and appeared to have followed it backwards for upwards of a mile, when he struck off at a right angle to the north-west. It was impossible to account for this fatal deviation, even had night, as most of the party supposed, overtaken him there. It seemed, that he had found my paper directing him to trace my steps backwards, and that he had been doing this, where the paper marked " N. E." had been found, and which I, therefore, considered a sort of reply to my note. If we were right, as to the nights, this must have taken jdace on the very day, on which I had passed that way, and when my eye eagerly caught at every dark coloured distant object, in hopes of finding him ! After the deviation to the nortii-west, it appears, that Mr. Cunningham made some detours about a clear j)lain, at one side of which his • These trees being remarkable from tlnir white shining trunks, resembling thoHf! of bt cch trees; a circuniHtancc to which, as connected with the presence of water, I bad just before drawn his attention. -TS!?'^^ -i s -s- ^ H gc '^ i CH. III.] HIS OWN FOOTSTEPS TRACED. 189 horse had been tied for a considerable time, and where it is probable he had passed his third night, as there were marks, where he had lain down in the Ions; drv grass. From this point, only his horse's tracks had been traced, not his own steps, which had hitherto accompanied them; and from the twisting and turning of the course to where it lay dead, we supposed he had not been with the horse after it left this place. The w^hip and straps seemed to have been trod off from the bridle-reins to which Mr. Cunningham was in the habit of tying his whip, and to which also the straps had been probably attached, to afford the animal more room to feed, when fastened to trees. To the place, therefore, where Mr. Cunningham's own steps had last been seen, I hastened on the morning of the 29th April, with the same men, Muirhead and Whiting, who had so ably and humanely traced all the tracks of the horse, through a distance of 70 miles. The spot seemed well chosen, as a halting place, being at a few trees which advanced beyond the rest of the wood into a rather extensive plain : a horse, tied there, could have been seen from almost any part around, and it is not im- probable, that Mr. Cunningham left the animal there fas- tened, and that it had afterwards got loose, and had finally perished for want of water. We soon found the print of Mr. Cunningham's footsteps in two places : in one, coming towards the trees where the horse had been tied, from a thick scrub east of them ; in the other, leading from these trees in a direction straight northward. Pursuing the latter steps, we found them con- tinuous in that direction, and, indeed, remarkably long and firm, the direction being preserved even through thick brushes. This course was direct for the Bogan ; and it was evident, that, urged by intense thirst, he had at length set off, with desjjerate speed for the river, having parted from his horse, where the party had supposed. That he had killed and 190 MR. LARMER's encounter with a tribe. [CH. III. eaten the dog in the scrub, whence his footsteps had been seen to emerge was probable, as no trace of the animal was visible beyond it ; and as it was difficult, otherwise, to account for his own vigorous step, after an abstinence of three days and three nights. I then regretted, that I had not, at the time, examined the scrub, but, when we were at his last camp (the trees on the plain), we were most interested in Mr. Cunninoham's further course. This we traced more than two miles, during which he had never stopped, even to look behind towards the spot where, had he left his horse, he might still have seen him. Having at length lost the track on some very hard ground, we ex- hausted the day in a vain search for it. On returning to the camp, I found that Mr. Larmer, whom I had sent with two armed men down the Bogan, had nearly been surrounded, at only three miles from our camp, by a tribe of natives car- rying spears. Amongst these, were two, who had been with us on the previous day, and who called to the others to keep back. They told Mr. Larmer, that they had seen Mr. Cun- ningham's track in several parts of the bed of the Bogan ; that he had not been killed, but had gone to the westward, (pointing down the Bogan,) with the " Myall (i. e. wild) Blackfellows." Thus, we had reason to hope that our friend had, at least, escaped the fate of his unfortunate horse, by reaching the Bogan. This was what we wished ; but no one could have supposed, that he would have followed the river downwards, into the jaws of the wild natives, rather tluni upwards. His movements show, that he believed he had deviated to the eastward of our route, rather tban to the westward ; and this mistake accounts for his having gone down the Bogan. Had he not pursued that fatal course, or h.ad he killed the liorse rather than the dog, and remained stationary, his life would have been saved. The result of our twelve days' delay and search was only the discovery, that had wo pursued our journey down the Bogan, Mr. Cunningham would have CH. III.] SEARCH CONTINUED DOWN THE BOGAN. 191 fallen in with our track and rejoined us ; and that, while we halted for him, he had gone a-head of us, and out of reach. April 30. — I put the party in movement, along the left bank of the Bogan, its general course being north-west, and about five miles from our camp we crossed the same solitary line of shoe-marks, seen the day before, and still going due north ! With sanguine hopes we traced it to a pond in the bed of the river, and the two steps by which Mr. Cunningham first reached water, and in which he must have stood while allaying his burning thirst, were very plain in the mud ! The scales of some large fish lay upon them, and I could not but hope, that even the most savage natives would have fed a white man, circumstanced as Mr. Cunninoham must then have been. Overseer Burnett, Whiting and the Doctor, proceeded in search of him down the river, while the party continued, as well as the dense scrubs of casuarinae per- mitted, in a direction parallel to its course. Just as we found Mr. Cunningham's footsteps, a column of smoke arose from the woods to the southward, and I went in search of the natives, Bulger accompanying me with his musket. After we had advanced in the direction of the smoke two miles, it entirely disappeared, and we could neither hear, nor see, any other traces of human beings in these dismal soli- tudes. The density of the scrubs had obliged me to make some detours to the left, so that I did not reach the Bogan, till long after it was quite dark. Those who had gone in search of Mr. Cunningham, did not arrive at our camp that night, although we sent up several sky-rockets, and fired some shots. 3Ja^ 1. — The party came in from tracing Mr. Cunning- ham's steps, along the dry bed of the Bogan, and we were glad to find that the impressions continued. There appeared to be the print of a small naked foot of some one, either accompanying or tracking Mr. Cunningham. Atone place, were the remains of a small fire, and the shells of a few 192 DEATH OP THK KANGAROO. [CH. III. muscles, as if he had eaten them. It was now most desirable to get a-head of this track, and I lost no time in proceeding, to the extent of another day's journey parallel to the Bogan, or, rather, so as to cut off a great bend of it. We crossed some good, undulating ground, open and grassy, the scenery being finer, from the picturesque group- ing and character of the trees, than any we had hitherto seen. On one of these open tracts, I wounded a female kangaroo at a far shot of my rifle, and the wretched animal was finally killed after a desperate fight with the dogs. There is something so affecting in the silent and deadly struggle between the harmless kangaroo and its pursuers, that I have sometimes found it difficult to reconcile the sym- pathy such a death excites, with our possession of canine teeth, or our necessities, however urgent they might be. " The huntsman's pleasure is no more," indeed, when such an animal dies thus before him, persecuted alike by the civilized and the savage. In this instance, a young one, warm from the pouch of its mother, frisked about at a distance, as if unwilling to leave her, although it finally escaped. The nights were cold, and I confess that thoughts of the young kangaroo did obtrude at dinner, and were mingled Avith my kangaroo-steak . As we turned to our right, in the afternoon, in search of tlie Bogan, we encountered some casuarina scrub, to avoid which, we had to wind a little, so that we only made the river at dusk, and at a part of the bed which was dry. Water, as we afterwards found, was near enough upwards, but the two parties sent in the evening having by mistake both sought for it in the other direction, we had none till early in the morning. May 2. — Five natives were brought to me by Whiting and Tom Jones, on suspicion ; one of them having a silk pocket- handkerchief, which they thought might have belonged to Mr. Cunningham. The native wore it fastened over his shoulders, and seemed CH. III.] FIVE NATIVES. ] 93 SO careless about our scrutiny, that I could not think he had obtained the handkerchief by any violence; and still less from Mr. Cunningham, as it was engrained with a smoky tinge, apparently derived from having been long in his pos- session. No mark was upon it, and the only information, we could obtain, as to where they got it, was the answer " old fellow," and pointing to the north-east. As these men had been at some out-station of ours, and could speak a little English, and as they had a young kangaroo dog, called by them " olony" (Maloney), I did not think at the time that the handkerchief had belonged to Mr. Cunningham ; and the men appointed to attend him, declared, they had never seen that handkerchief in his hands. These five natives were overtaken suddenly, at a water- hole two miles lowerdown the Bogan. The name of him, with the handkerchief, was " Werrajouit," those of the other four " Yarree Buckenba," and "Tackijally Buckenba/' (brothers) " Youimooba," and " Werrayoy," (youths). The most intel- ligent was " Tackijally," and even he understood but little, not enough to comprehend any thing I said, about the white man lost in the hush. To secure their good will and best services, however, I immediately gave them three tomahawks ; and when Yarree Buckenba took a new handkei-chief from my pocket, I pre- seftted him with it. They accompanied us, when we moved forward to encamp nearer water. We passed a small pond, the name of which was Burdenda, and afterwards came to Cudduldury, where we encamped, with the intention of making what further search we could for Mr. Cunningham. While the men were pitching the tents, at this place, I rode with the natives, at their request, towards some ponds lower down. There, by their cooys and their looks, they seemed to be very anxious about somebody in the bush, beyond the Bogan. I expected to see their chief; at all events, from these silent woods something was to emerge. 194 INTERVIEW AVITII THE KING OF THE BOGAN. [CH. III. in which my guides were evidently much interested, as they kept me waiting nearly an hour for " Th' unseen genius of the wood." At length a man of mild hut pensive countenance, athletic form, and apparently about fifty years of age, came forth, leading a very fine boy, so dressed with green boughs, that only his head and legs remained uncovered ; a few emu- feathers being mixed with the wild locks of his hair. I i-eceived him in this appropriate costume, as a personification of the green bough, or emblem of peace.* One large feather decked the brow of the chief; which with his nose, was tinged with yellow ochre. Having presented the boy to me, he next advanced with much formality towards the camp, having " Tackijally" on his right, the boy Avalking between, and rather in advance of both, each having a hand on his shoulder. The boy's face had a holiday look of gladness, but the chief remained so silent and serious, without, however, any symptoms of alarm, that my recollections of him then, and as he appeared next day, when better acquainted, are as of two distinct persons. To this personage, all the others paid the greatest defe- rence, and it is worthy of remark, that they always refused to tell his name, or that of several others, while those of some of the tribe were *' familiar in our mouths as house- hold words." The boy, who was called Talambe Nadoo, was not his son ; but he took particular care of him. This tribe gloried in the name of " Myall," which the natives nearer to the colony apply in terror and abhorrence to the " wild blackfellows," to whom they usually attribute the most savage propensities. • The Grecians used to supplicate with green boughs in their hands, and crowns upon their heads, cliiefly of olive or laurel, whence Statius says : Mite nemus circa Vittatcc launis, et sup]ilicis arbor olivrn. CH. III.] CHAN^NEL OF THE BOGAN EXAMINED. 195 Not a word could this chief of the Myalls speak, besides his own language ; and his slow and formal approach indi- cated that it was, undoubtedly, the first occasion, on which he had seen white men. It was evident, at once, that he was not the man to wander to stock-stations ; and that, whatever others of his race might do, he preferred an undisputed sway, " Far from the cheerful haunt of men and herds." Numbers of the tribe came about us, but tliey retired at the chief's bidding. Not one, however, except those first met with in the Bogan, could speak any of the jargon, by which the natives usually communicate with the stockmen. We could not make them understand, that we were in search of one of our party, who was lost ; neither could Muirhead and Whiting, who were returning to follow up Mr. Cunningham's track, prevail on any of these natives to accompany them. May 3. — The two men having departed, to take up Mr. Cunningham's track, I must liei*e observe, that the footsteps had not been discovered in the Bogan, either at our last camp, or at this, although Whiting and Tom Jones had been in search of them, when they found the man with a handkerchief; it was, therefore, most important to ascertain, if possible, where, and under what circumstances, the foot- steps disappeared. Tiie skill, with which these men had followed the slightest impressions, was remarkable ; and I fixed my hopes on the result of their further exertions. I cannot say, that I then expected, they would find Mr. Cunningham, conceiving it was more probable, that he had left the Bogan, and gone northward towards our stations on the Macquarie, a river distant only a short day's journey from the Bogan. My anxiety about him was embittered with regret at the inauspicious delay of our journey, which his disappearance had occasioned ; and I was too impatient on both subjects, to be able to remain inactive at the camp. I, therefore, set out, followed by two men on horseback, with the intention of reconnoitring the country to the southward, taking with us provisions for two days. After riding 17 o 2 196 PASS THE >fIGHT WITHOUT WATER. [CH. III. miles, the first eight through thick scrub, we came into a more open and elevated country, where we saw pigeons, a sign that water was not distant, on some side of us. The hills were covered with a quartzose soil, containing angular frag- ments. The callitris pyrarnidalis, and the stirculia hetero- phylla were among the trees. At 19 miles we crossed some dry ponds, in open forest ground, and we then continued along fine flats for five miles more, when we again intersected the dry bed of the creek. Still pursuing the same direction, and having the water-course near us on the left, we passed (at the distance of 26 miles) some native fires ; but I was too anxious to examine the country before me, to stop, although I saw some of the natives seated by them. We soon after ascended a low ridge of mica-slate ; beyond which we came again on the dry creek, and after crossing it several times, we finally lay down, for the night, in its bed (which afforded the best grass), 33 miles from the party at Cuddukkuy. Altkough this water-course was perfectly dry throughout, yet it was an interesting feature, in a valley enclosed on each side by undulating hills of mica-slate ; and I thought of con- tinuing in its course next morning, in hopes, it might, at last, lead to some chain of ponds falling westward. May 4. — Our horses had fared but indiiferently as to grass, and they had no water until this morning, when we spared to each about half a gallon, of what Ave carried ; but this supply seemed only to make them more thirsty. As soon as it was clear day-light, we continued in the direction of the creek ; but, although its bed deepened, and at one place (much trodden by the natives), we discovered a hole, which had only recently dried up, still we found no water. Fur- ther on, tlie recent marks of the natives and their huts also were numerous ; but how they existed, in this parched coun- try, was the question ! We saw, that around many trees, the roots had been taken up, and we found them without the })ark, and cut into short clubs or billets, but for what purpose we could not then discover. At eleven o'clock, I changed my CH. III.] VIEW TOWARDS MOUNT GRANARD. 197 course to 300° from north, and, after travelling about three miles in that direction, I descried a goodly hill on my left, and soon after several others, one of which was bare of trees on the summit. After so long a journey, over unvarying flats, we had at length come rather unawares, as it seemed, into a hilly country, the heights of which were bold, rocky, and of considerable elevation. I should estimate the summit of that which we ascended, was 730 feet above the lower country at its base. The dry creek, which had led us towards these hills, from such a distance northward, had vanished through them somewhere to our left ; and, bold as the range was, still we could see no better promise of water, than what this seemed to afford. The summit, up Avhich we forced our horses over very sharp rocks, commanded a most extensive and magnificent view of hills, both eastward and westward. The country in the north, whence we had come, was, nevertheless, higher, althoug-h the horizon there was unbroken. Southward, the general line of horizon was a low level, on which the hills terminated, as if it had been the sea. There, I had no doubt, flowed the river Lachlan, and, probably, one of the highest of the hills, was Mount Granard of Oxley. Towards the east, the most elevated hill bore 142° 30' from N., and was at a distance of about 1 2 miles. It was a remarkable mass of yellow rock, naked and herbless, as if nature there had not yet finished her work. That hill had an isolated appear- ance ; others to the westward were pointed, and smoke arose from almost every summit, even from the highest part of the mass on which we stood. Some sharp-edged rocks prevented us from riding to where the smoke appeared, and I was too lame to go on foot. No natives were visible, and I could not comprehend, what they could be all about on the various rugged summits whence smoke arose; as these people rather frequent vallies, and the vicinity of ponds of water. The re- gion I now overlooked, was beautifully diversified with hill and dale, still I could not discover much promise of water ; 198 FOREST ON FIRE. [CH. III. but as smoke ascended from one flat to the westward, I con- jectured that we might there find a pool, but it was too far distant to be then of use to us. The general direction of hills appeared to be 318° from north; that of the continuation westward of the flat higher land, N. 343°. A broad and ex- tensive smoke was rising from the country where we had slept, and towards which I was about to return by a direct course from this hill (N. 56° E.). Accordingly, we travelled until night overtook us in an extensive, casuarina scrub, where we tied our horses, and made our fire, after a ride of at least 40 miles. During the night, we were made aware, by the crackling of falling timber, that a conflagration was ap- proaching, and one of us by turns watched, while the others slept with their arms at hand. The state of our horses, from want of water, was by no means promising for the long jour- ney, which was necessary to enable us to reach home next day ; a circumstance on which the lives of these animals in all probability depended, especially as the grass here was very indifferent. We had also little more than a pint of water for each horse ; and it was difficult to give that scanty allowance to any one of the animals, in sight of the others, so furious were they on seeing it. 3Iay 5. — Proceeding in search of our first day's track, we entered almost immediately the burning forest. We per- ceived, that much pains had been taken by the natives to spread the fire, from its burning in separate places. Huge trees fell now and then with a crashing sound, loud as thunder, while others hung just ready to fall, and as the country was chiefly open forest, the smoke, at times, added much sublimity to the scenery. We travelled five miles through this fire and smoke, all the while in expectation of coming unawares upon the natives, who had been so busy in annoying us. At length, we saw the huts, which we had passed the day before, and soon after, three natives, who im- mediately got behind trees as we advanced ; but although one ran (jH", yet the others answered my cooy, and I went towards CH. III.] INTERVIEW WITH THI.'EE NATIVES. 199 them on foot, with a green branch. They seemed busy, digging at the root of a large tree ; but on seeing me advance, they came forward with a fire-stick and sat down ; I followed their example, but the cordiality of our meeting, could be expressed only by mutual laughing. They w^ere young men, yet one was nearly blind from ophthalmia or filth. I called up one of my men, and gave a tomahawk to the tallest of these youths, making what signs I could, to express my thirst and want of water. Looking as if they understood me, they hastened to resume their work, and I discovered, that they dug up the roots for the sake of drinking the sap. It appeared, that they first cut these roots into billets, and then stripped oS" the bark or rind, which they sometimes chew, after which, holding up the billet and applying one end to the mouth, they let the juice drop into it. We now understood, for what purpose the short clubs, which we had seen the day before, had been cut. The youths resumed their work the moment they had received the tomahawk, without looking more at us or at the tool. I thought this nonchalance rather singular,and attributed their assiduity either to a desire to obtain for us some of the juice, which would have been creditable to their feelings ; or, to the necessity for serving some more powerful native, who had set them to that work. One had gone, apparently to call the tribe, so I continued my journey without further delay. We soon regained our track of the first day, and I followed it with some impatience back to the camp. My horse had been ill on the second day, and as this was the third, on which it, as well as the others, had gone without water, they were so weak, that, had we been retarded by any accident another night in the bush, we must have lost them all. They could be driven on only with difficulty, neverthe- less, we reached the camp before sunset. The tidings brought by the men sent after Mr. Cunning- ham's footsteps, were still most unsatisfactory. They had fol- lowed the river bed back for the first twelve miles from our 200 PART OF MR. Cunningham's coat found, [ch. hi. camp, without finding in it a single pond. They had traced the continuation of his track to where it disappeared near some recent fires, where many natives had been encamped. Near one of these fires, they found a portion of the skirt or selvage of Mr. Cunningham's coat ; numerous small frag- ments of his map of the colony ; and, in the hollow of a tree, some yellow printed paper, in which he used to carry the map. The men examined the ground for half a mile all around without finding more of his footsteps, or any traces of him, besides those mentioned. It was possible, and indeed, as I then thought, probable, that having been deprived by the natives of his coat, he might have escaped from them by going northward, towards some of the various cattle stations on the Macquarie. 1 learnt that when the men returned with these vestiges of poor Cunningham, there was great alarm amongst the natives, and movements by night, when the greater part of the tribe decamped, and amongst them the fellow with the handkerchief, who never again appeared. The chief; or king (as our people called him), continued with us, and seemed quite unconscious of anything wrong. This tribe seemed too far from the place, where the native camp had been, to be suspected of any participation in the ill treatment with which we had too much reason to fear, Mr. Cunningham had met. As we had no language to explain, even that one of our party was missing, I could only hope, that, by treating these savages kindly, they might be more disposed, should they ever see or hear of Mr. Cunningham, to assist him to rejoin us. To delay the party longer was obviously unnecessary; and, indeed, the loss of more time must have defeated the object of the expedition, considering our limited stock of provisions. I, therefore, determined on proceeding by short journeys along tlie Bogan, acconij)anied by these natives, not altoge- ther without the hope, thiit Mr. Cunningham might still be brought to us, by some of them. CHAPTER IV. Continue along the Bogan, guided by the natives— Their caution in approach- ing the haunts of others — Their accurate knowledge of localities — Introduced to the Bungan tribe— Superiority of the king how displayed— Dangerous mistake — A true savage — The king of the Bogan takes his leave— Kanga- roos numerous — Beauty of the shrubs — Dangerous consequence of surprising a native — Wounded native led to our camp — His coniidence gained by kind treatment — Oxley's Table-land — Mr. Larmer's excursion to it — Narrow escape from the loss of the cattle — The party followed by a clamorous tribe —A parley — Their various complexions — Decorous behaviour — Naked plains — A native visitor— Soft earth of the plains— Ride to the Darling— The water sweet — The party encamps on a favourable position on the river. May 6. — Guided by Tackijally we proceeded, crossing the Bogan for the first time, and travelling along its right bank to Bugubada, a distance of eight miles. May 7. — Proceeded, again accompanied by Tackijally, under the orders of the king, who compelled him to go, al- though he seemed very unwilling or lazy. The advantage of having such guides was, that being now uncertain as to the farther course of the Bogan, which had taken a great bend northward, we could thus make straight for each proposed water-hole, without following the bends of the river. The knowledge of the people was so exact as to localities, that I could ascertain in setting out, the true bearing of those places by the direction in which they pointed ; and in travelling on such a bearing, any obstacle in the way, was sure to be avoided by following the suggestions of the natives. In this manner, we now travelled. Another great advantage gained in the company of the natives was, our being perfectly safe from the danger of sudden collision with a tribe. Their caution, in approaching water-holes was most remarkable; for they always cooyed from a great distance, and even on coming 202 natives' knowledge of localities. [cH. IV. near a thick scrub, they would sometimes request me to halt, until they could examine it., This day, we passed, in the channel of the Bogan, a long and deep reach or lagoon, called Muda, of which the natives had made much mention ; but to have remained at this water, would have made the day's jour- ney too short ; so we proceeded to a smaller hole named Walwadyer, having crossed and recrossed the dry channel of the Bogan. 31ay 8. — Tackijally, who had of late steadily conducted us to water, came up, when we were ready to start, and shewed me the direction in which I was to find water, at the end of the day's journey, which appeared to be, as he pointed, 343°. He then held up the opossum skins of his cloak, making signs in that manner, that he went to seek opossums, but should rejoin us afterwards. We twice crossed the Bogan in the first half mile, and then traversed an open plain, the surface of which was flat, firm, and nearly bare. As we reached the northern skirts, the king, with Talambe Nadoo, and Tackijally rejoined us. At four miles we passed a good pond called Daumbwan. We encamped further on, at a place called Murrebouga, where there was a large pond, the direct distance from Walwadyer being 51 miles ; and it was a curious test of the accuracy of the native's local knowledge, that although he recommended this pond of Murrebouga, by merely pointing in its direction, I had, by following with compass the course indicated, hit the very pond to which he meant us to go. May 9. — Again guided by Tackijally, we travelled to- wards Darobal, the distance being 7$ miles. We several times crossed the bed of the Bogan, and in this day's journey,. we were joined by Dalumbe Tugunda, and others of the Bun- gan tribe, to whom the chief was anxious to introduce us. We had this day, an opportunity of witnessing his superiority in tho.-e qualifications by which, lie was, no doubt, dis- tinguished among the savage tribes. We had overtaken a strong man vvitii a bad countenance, prowling along through CH. IV.] DANGEROUS MISTAKE. 203 the bush; and being, as it appeared, a friend of the king's, he continued with us. An opossum in a tree had baffled all the endeavours of himself and some young men to get at it, when they cooyed for the king. Our royal friend came, climbed the tree in an instant, and after a cursory exami- nation, dropped some small sticks down the hollow of the trunk ; then listening, he pointed, as by instinct, to a part of the tree much lower down, where, by making a small inci- sion, the others immediately got the animal out. May 10. — We moved (on 345°) for Nyingan, which we reached at half-past twelve. We passed on our left, Bor- ribilu, and there I was introduced by the king to a new tribe. On first espying these people seated under a tree, at a great distance, near the river-bank, he directed my attention that way by using the same gestures, which he was accustomed to make in giving me notice of a kangaroo or emu. I accord- ingly left my horse, going cautiously forward wuth my rifle. The chief, however, kept by me, anxiously calling out wdth a pathetic voice, "iHfyew," '■'■ Myen" which words, as I after- wards learnt, meant Men! Men! But it was not until a thought had passed in my mind of firing among the group, that I had the good fortune to discover my mistake. The figures seated, and covered with grey clay, had very much the resemblance of a grey species of kangaroo, which we had often seen on the Bogan. I then w^ent forward with him, and was received with the most demure inattention ; that is to say, by the natives sitting cross-legged, with their eyes fixed on the ground, which it appeared was their formal mode of expressing respect or consideration for strangers, when first received. Nyingan was a long pond of water, on which were many ducks, and those birds called in the colony, native companions. The blacks sat down at a fire nearer to us than usual, and the strong man with a bad countenance, particularly attracted my attention. I prevailed on him to sit, until I sketched his lace ; for 204 • KANGAROOS NUMEROUS. [CH. IV. which piece of civility I gave him a tomahawk Late at night, when I was ahout to go to sleep, he came £ .dy up to my tent, demanding something in a whisper. I shewed him my rifle, and gave the man on watch strict orders to look sharp. This savage was, twice afterwards, caught about the carts during the night, and in the morning, he was seen pointing out to other natives the cart on which the flour was placed. I never saw a worse countenance on any native ; and I was deprived even of the slight comfort of a doubt as to poor Cunningham's fate, on looking at it. May 11 . — The king, who had most kindly accompanied us on every day's journey from Cudduldury,carefully pointing out the open parts of the country, and the water-holes, on which to encamp, this morning took leave of us, having previously been at some pains, to introduce us to the Bungan tribe. These last natives did not, however, so well understand our wants ; and I was then rather inclined to be rid of them, and push on at a faster rate than they would allow me. I, therefore, refused to halt, as they wished, at Condiirgo, and proceeded. Our new acquaintance followed, until the dogs started after some kangaroos, and having been long absent, I sent in search of them, when some of the natives were caught carrying off" a kangaroo, which the dogs had killed, and others were decoying our animals away with them. On the kangaroo being brought to me, I gave it to the tribe, in hopes that they would remain to eat it, and thus leave us, to pursue our journey. Tliey followed us, however, carrying the kangaroo, until they came to a bend of the Bogan, Avhere they suddenly dis- ajtpeared. We finally encamped on an open plain, with toleiiible pasture, and near a water-hole in the river bed. The evening was cloudy, for the first time since I had been witli the i)arty, from the commencement of the expedition ; and a smart shower fell during the night. May VI. — We set off early, travelling over rather open ground, so that we were able to pursue the river course OH. IV.] BEAUTY OF THE SHRUBS, 205 without difficulty ; and we encamped near it on a plain, after a journey of fourteen miles. Just as we reached the spot, which I had chosen for the camp, several kangaroos appeared, although we had seen none previously during the day. I hunted them with the dogs while the people were pitching the tents; and the largest was killed some way from our camp, in a scrub ; so that it was necessary to bring two men to carry it home — no bad prize after the party had been living, for some time, on salt provisions. May 13. — We started early, and the morning was beau- tifully serene and clear. The shrubs which gracefully fringed the plains were very picturesque in their outline, and the delicate tints of their green foliage contrasted beautifully with the more prevailing light grey tinge, and with white stems and branches ; while the warmer green of one or two trees of Australian " rose-wood," relieved the sober greyish green of the pendent acacia. At 5| miles the river took a westerly bend, the ground on its banks being higher than usual. From a tree at this point, two small hills (supposed to be the " Twins'") bore west-north-west, distant about twelve miles. At 9 miles 35 chains, the south of the Twins bore 258°, distant about four miles ; at 10 miles 28 chains, the southern of the Twins bore 249°, the northern 252°; and w^e encamped on reaching the creek, after a journey of fifteen miles. We had a fine view of the supposed Twins as we proceeded ; and I found water, on making the river, where I wished to encamp. May 15.— At daylight we set off for the hills (which I judged to be the Twins of Sturt), distant 8^ miles. I found a group of small hills, composed of quartz rock, the strata of which were highly inclined, and the strike extended north-west and south-east. From the highest, which is the southern hill, I looked in vain for New- Year's range ; the horizon, in that direction, being quite unbroken ; hence I concluded that this could not be the " Twins," and I named it Mount Hopeless. Several remarkable hills appeared, however. 206 A NATIVE AVOUNDED. [CH. IV. to the west and south-'west, on all of which I took bearings with the theodoHte. Their surface was naked and rocky, only a few trees consisting of pine (or callitris), and some dwarf gum-trees appearing on them ; but the country within two miles of their base, was more densely wooded than that nearer the Bogan . There were callitris pyramidalis, acacia longifolia, and eucalyptus, amongst the trees, and the soil contained fragments of quartz, mixed with red earth. I heard from the summit, the mogo of a native at work on some tree close by, but saw neither himself, nor the smoke of his fire. I returned in time to put the party in motion by twelve o'clock ; and after a journey of 8J miles, we encamped, as usual, near the left bank of the Bogan. Water seemed more abundant in this part of the river, for, on the three last occasions, we had found some, as soon as we approached the bank. The pond near our present encampment was large and deep, and there were others above and below it. As the party were pitching the tents, I was, according to my usual custom, in the bed of the Bogan with the barometer, when I heard, as from a pond lower down? some hideous yells, then a shot, and immediately afterward our overseer shouting "hold him" ! I hurried up the bank and saw a native running, bleeding, and screaming most piteously. He was between me and our tents, which were beyond some trees, and quite out of sight from the Bogan ; but one or two men, on their way for water, soon drew near. The over- seer came to mc limping, and stated, that, on approaching the pond with his gun, looking for ducks, this native was there alone, sitting with his dog beside a small fire ; that, as soon as he saw Burnett, he yelled hideously, and ruiming at him in a furious manner up the bank, he immediately threw a fire- stick and one of his bommercngs, the latter of which struck Burnett on the leg, the otlier having passed close over his shoulder. The native still advancing upon him with a bom- mercng,he discharged his piece in his own defence, alarmed, as any man must have boon, under such circumstances. CH. IV ] ins COTJFIDENCE GAINED BY KINDNESS. 207 The native kept calling out loudly and pathetically, but he had now ceased running, perhaps from seeing the cattle a-head of him. Notwithstanding the entreaties of the men, that I should not go within reach of his missiles, I advanced with a green branch in my hand, towards this bleeding and helpless child of nature. Upon seeing this, he immediately ceased calling out, seemed to ask some question, and then at once threw aside the weapons which he held, and sat down on the ground. On my going up to him, I found he had re- ceived the shot on various parts of his body, but chiefly on his left hand and wrist, which were covered with blood. I with difficulty prevailed on him to go with me to the tents, making signs, that I wished to dress his wounds. This the Doctor immediately did, applying lint and Friars balsam to them. During the operation he stared wildly around him, at the sheep and bullocks, horses, tents, &c. It was evident, he had never seen, perhaps, scarcely even ever heard of, such animals as he now saw, and certainly had never before seen a white man. I gave him a piece of bread, which he did not taste, saying he should take it to " Einer" (his gin or wife). He knew not a word of the low jargon usually taught the natives by our people ; but he spoke incessantly in his own purer language, scarcely a word of which we understood, beyond "you," " two gins," " fire," " doctor" (coradje), and " to sleep." One circumstance, very trifling, certainly, to mention here, may serve, however, to shew the characteristic quickness of these people. He had asked for a bit of fire to be placed beside him, (the constant habit of the naked abori- gines,) and, on seeing a few sparks of burning grass running towards my feet, he called out to me " we, we," (i. e. fire, fire !) that I might avoid having my clothes burnt. This conside- ration, in a savage, amid so many strange objects, and while suffering from so many new and raw wounds, received from one of us, was, at least, an instance of that natural attentive- ness, if I may so call it, which sometimes distinguishes the aborigines of Australia. This man of the woods, at length, 208 ASCEND new-year's range. [cH. IV. by gestures, asked my permission to depart, and, also, that he might take a fire-stick; and, in going, he said much, which, from his looks and gestures, I understood as expres- sive of goodwill or thanks, in his way. He further asked me to accompany him, till he was clear of the bullocks, and thus he left us. This unfortunate affair arose solely from our too suddenly approaching the Avater-holes, where the tribes usually resort. We had observed the caution, with which those natives, who guided us, always went near such places, by preceding us a good way, and calling out ; I determined, therefore, in future to sound my bugle, where I meant to encamp, that the natives might not be surprised by our too sudden approach, but have time to retire, if they thought proper to do so. May 15. — We moved off early, and travelled sixteen miles, when we reached some good ponds on the Bogan ; having passed a remarkable bend in that river, to the westward. May 16. — After proceeding a few miles on our route this morning, we saw from a tree, in the skirt of a plain, a range bearing N. .331°. The bends of the creek sent me much to the westward of that direction : and we crossed some rotten or hollow ground, which delayed the carts. On proceeding be- yond this, we came to a fire where we heard natives shouting, and we then saw them running abreast of us, but I did not court a closer acquaintance. Soon after, seeing an extensive tract of soft, broken, or rotten ground before me, I took to the left, in order to gain a plain, where the surface was firm. On reaching this plain, the dogs killed two kangaroos, and a little further the soil changing, became red and firm, with some dry ponds, and though there was little timber, yet I had never before seen several of the kinds of trees. A little before sunset, we reached a slight eminence, consisting of a compound of quartz and felspar, and from it, 1 had a view of New- Year's Range of Ilumo, bearing N. 07°, and of a higher range to the west of it. We finally encamped, without water, on a fine, open, forest flat, about two miles southward of the former range. CH. IV.] TRACES OF CAPTAIN STURT's VISIT. 209 May 17. — At two miles from our bivouac, we crossed a small rill descending to the south-east, from hills which might be New- Year's range. At 5^ miles we encamped on the Bogan, the most northern but one of five hills, supposed to be the New-Year's range, bearing 240°. From this point the northern extremity of the ridge extending from the hills, bore 25°. At twelve o'clock, I went to these heights, and on the first I ascended, I found several stumps of pine (or callitris pi/ramidalis), which had been cut down with an axe, the remains of them being still visible amongst the ashes of a fire. I Avas thus satisfied that this was the hill on which Captain Sturt's party burnt the trees, when a man was missing. Still, however, a better range to the westward was unaccounted for ; but, on ascending a hill which was still higher, and whose rocky crest was clear of trees, I was able to identify the whole, by the bearings of the high land, as given in Captain Sturt's book, and by the strip of plain visible in the south, which had appeared to that traveller, to resemble the bed of a rapid river. This plain happened to be the one we had crossed the day before, and I had then observed the water-holes, also mentioned, and that they had been long dry. No traces be- sides those already noticed, remained of the visit of the first discoverers of New- Year's rana'e. During my absence, three natives had been near the camp, two old men and one very strong and tall young one. They appeared very much afraid, and barely remained to receive the flag of truce (a green branch), sitting with their eyes fixed on the ground, and retiring soon after. I do not think, any water could be found nearer than the Bogan at this time, although I observed hollows between the hills, where it would probably remain some time after rain, and where, I suppose, Captain Sturt's party found it. I made the latitude of the camp to be 30° 26' 24", and that of the hill 30° 27' 45" S. 3Ia2/ 18. — We moved off to the northward, and at seven miles, came upon the river, where there was a reach for about 1 p 210 oxley's tabi-e-land. [ch. IV. a mile of deep water ; and soon after we attained that part of it where the bed was of granite, but quite dry. The bank was here unusually even, like that of a canal, having also little wood ; no polygonum or rhagodia appeared there. Soon after, we traversed a soil composed of gravel, about the size of stones broken for roads ; the fragments were a good deal rounded, and all of granite. We finally encamped on the river, after crossing its usual belt of soft, hollow ground, which was rather distressing to the bullocks. The roads of the natives frequenting this part of the Bogan, were well beaten, but none of the inhabitants made their appearance. May 19. — We started at the usual hour, keeping first to the south of west, in order to clear the ground near the Bogan, and then on 300°. I obtained from several parts of the route, bearings on the hills west by south of New-Year's range, and which were higher and more conspicuous than the latter. We came upon a bend of the river with good water-holes, at 11^ miles, and encamped as usual, on the clearest ground near it. May 20. — We moved forwards on the bearing of west- north-west, until, at 51 miles, we reached the top of the Pink Hills, where, for the first time, I saw Oxley's Table-land, bearing 5° south of west, and distant apparently about thir- teen or fourteen miles, also Druid's Mount, bearing 103° west of north. Seeing the first mentioned hill so near, I should have made for it, had I felt certain, that water remained in the swamp, mentioned by Captain Sturt, and that the bul- locks could reach the hill before night. But they were now proceeding slowly and half tired ; and I considered it, upon due reflection, to be more advisable, to go in a;ioi-th-west direc- tion towards the Bogan. On the western slope of these hills, we found some of the pinks in flower, from which probably they have been named. There was also an unusual verdure about the grass, and a fragrance and softness in the western breeze, which seemed to welcome us to that interior region, CH. IV.] oxley's table-land. 211 and imparted a mildness to the air, while picturesque clouds in the western sky, led " active fancy" into still finer regions under them. We finally encamped on a plain about a mile from the Bog-an, where the highest of Oxley's Table-laud bore 250° from north, being distant eighteen miles. We had now reached a better country for grass, than we had seen since we left Buree ; and there was still a verdure in the blade and stalk, as well as a fulness in the tufts, which looked well for our poor cattle, after a continuous journey of sixteen days. May "21.— The party halted in this plain, while Mr. Larmer went to Oxley's Table-land, to ascertain if the swamp there contained water. Having to take some observations, and bring up an arrear of various other matters, I could not then visit that hill, thouo-h I wished much to do so. I found its latitude to be 30° 11' \b" S., and the longitude 146° 16' 9'' E. The extreme lowness of the country, and of the bed of the Bogan, which was now, according to the barometer, near the level of the sea, left little room to doubt, that the Darling could be much above that level. Mr. Larmer's report, on returning in the evening, after a ride of forty miles, was by no means in favour of Oxley's Table-land, as a place even of temporary encampment, there being no longer any swamp containing water ; on the contrary, the only water that he could discover about the hill, after much search on and around it, was a small spring in a hollow on the northern side. His account of the surroundino- country was equally unfavourable, for he stated, that it was very brushy, and without good grass. Now, it was obvious, that had we, according to a suggestion sent to the government by Captain Sturt, proceeded on the 20th of May to Oxley's Table-land, trusting to find abundance of water, the loss of our cattle would have been inevitable. To have reached that jjoint we must have made one long day's journey, and the distance thence to the nearest part of the Bogan, could not have been accomplished in another. p 2 212 A TRIBE OF NATIVES. [CH. IV. On the third day, the two preceding having been passed without water, the animals would have been unable to go further. The specimen brought from the hill Ly Mr. Larmer, ap- peared to be a quartzose conglomerate. May 22. — I continued ray journey along the Bogan, and in crossing and re-crossing it once, we passed several reaches of water. The country was generally open, and we encamped on another fine grassy plain, after travelling about twelve miles. This day, in chasing an emu, I dropped a telescope, which had been in my possession twenty-four years, having used it in the survey of many a field of battle. May 23. — We proceeded as usual. The calls of the natives, first heard at a distance in the woods, having become more loud, and at length incessant, I answered tliem in a similar tone ; and having halted the carts, I galloped over a bit of clear rising-ground, towards the place whence the voices came, followed by five men. A tribe of eighteen or twenty natives were coming forward, but the sight of my horse galloping, made those in the rear turn back, when I immediately alighted, and walked towards them with a green tuft. The two foremost and strongest of the party came forw^ard, and when 1 sat down, they advanced with bommerengs in hand. Seeing, that they retained these weapons, I arose, upon which they, understanding me imme- diately, threw the bommerengs aside. I then Avent up to the two in advance, the tribe following behind. The leader had lost an eye, and the three principal men seemed very strong fellows. I invited them to come forward, but they hesitated, until my escort, which was still some way back, sat down. I mounted my horse to shew the animal's docility, and thus remove their dread of it ; but they immediately turned to run, whereupon I alighted, and led their chief a little nearer, but they were very unwilling to approach my party. At length I presented the one-eyed leader with a tomahawk, and they all sat down. This native seemed a manly intel- CH. IV.] VARIETY OF COMPLEXION. 21-3 ligent fellow. To all which he ajjpeared to coinprcheiid of what I said, his answer was, " Awoy," accompanied by a nod, as if he had said, " O yes." On my mentioning " Goindura Gaily," and making the signs of paddling a canoe, he pointed immediately to the westward. This term, I understood from the Bungan tribe to mean salt-water ; water being kally, gaily, or gallo. So " bungan gallo," was the name of the lower Bogan, and Bogan gallo that of tlie upper Bogan. " Goindura" I understood to mean salt, in consequence of that word having been used by the chief of the Bogan, when I shewed him some salt. Among the tribe we now communicated with, there appeared a greater variety of feature and complexion, than I had ever seen in aboriginal natives elsewdiere ; most of them had straight brown hair, but others had Asiatic features, much resem- bling Hindoos, with a sort of woolly hair. There were two old men with grey beards, who sat silent ; and one wha maintained a very ceremonious face, seemed intent on pre- serving decorum, for he silenced a boy with a slight blow, who had eagerly spoken, while I was endeavouring to remind them of the former exploring party. After they had sat a very short time, and I had pointed out the direc- tion in which I was proceeding, they arose and went away, and we continued our journey. After we had advanced a mile or two, a deep reach of the Bogan appeared on our right, or northward ; and one of the natives, followed by others, who remained at some distance behind, came up to tell us there was water. We accordingly gave the cattle some, and then went on, finally encamping on a bit of plain near the Bogan, where Oxlej's Table-land bore about south- south-east, and having travelled nearly twelve miles. Ob- served latitude .33° 3' 29'' S. Oxleifs Table-land from the N. W. 214 RIDE TO THE DARLING. [Cll. IV. 31ay 24. — The party moved this morning about seven miles towards the west, until Oxley's Table-land bore 125°. We travelled chiefly across plains, destitute of grass ; and from which we had good views of that strangely named hill, never seen by Oxley, and in fact, not a table-land. A native came after us, bearing a small piece of canvass, which had been thrown away at the former camp. He accompanied us during the rest of the day's journey, and I gave him a toma- hawk, and a seventh part of my old sword blade. He con- tinued at the camp, and asked for every thing he saw, but we took care not to understand him. All over these plains the ground was so soft, being quite clear of roots or swai-d, that the cart wheels sunli veiy deep in it. The soil, never- theless, appeared to be excellent, although it was naked like fallow land, for the roots of the umbelliferous plants which grew there, had so little hold, that they were easily set loose by the winds, and lay about the surface. At dark, five natives advanced along our track, shouting, but remaining at a distance. I sent two men to them (one with a fire-stick), in order to tell them we were going to sleep. Two of the party were old men, one having hoary hair, and all five carried spears, which they stuck in the ground, and sat down, as soon as our people went up to them. After that interview, they decamped towards the Bogan. 3Iay 25. — Early this morning, the same men came to a tree, at some distance from the tents. I went to them and shewed them my watch, compass, &c. ; when they pointed to the northward, making motions by which I sujjposed, they meant to represent three courses of the sun ; and I therefore concluded, that they had seen me on the Karaula three years before. I then gave them a piece of my broken sword, and set off" with a party on horseback, to see the river Darling. ]3y half-past ten, I made this river, at a flistaiice of eight miles from our camj), by riding first, three miles Avest, and tlieii fivo in the direction of 20° north of west by conipas;?. The people with me immediately declared, CH. IV.] NATIVES AFRAID OF THE SHEEP. 215 it was our old acquaintance the Karaula, unaltered in a single feature. Here, we saw the same description of broken earthy banks ; the same kind of lofty trees, and the long, deep, and still reaches, so characteristic of a lengthened and slumbering course. But the great question to be determined was, the quality of the water, which, appearing to me, from the top of the bank, very transparent, and of a green- ish tinge, and without any indication of a current, I did not doubt was salt, as when first discovered, in nearly the same latitude, by Sturt. I was, however, so agreeably surprised, on descending the steep bank, to find the taste perfectly sweet, that I began to doubt, if this river could be " The Darling," thinking, from the difierence in the longitude especially, that it might still be the lower part of the Bogan, the course of which continued westward, and on my right, as I rode from the camp. I proceeded some distance down the river, and found the reaches to extend first west-north-west, next north- north-east (half a mile), then south-west by south (] | miles) ; I was at length satisfied that this was indeed the river Dar- ling, and I was no less gratified in perceiving a slight current in it, with no obstruction for our boats as far as I had yet examined. The paths of the natives were fresh trodden, but we saw none of them, and I returned towards the camp, where I arrived by two p. m. The bed of the Darling, at the place where we reached it, could not be elevated more, ac- cording to the state of the barometrical column, (as com- pared at the time with that of my barometer, as it had stood at Paramatta bridge), than 250 feet above the level of the sea. I found, that the natives whom I had left at the camp, no longer remained there, having quitted it soon after my departure, apparently afraid of the sheep! May 26. — A party of our friends the natives again made their appearance ; and five of them, including the three who had visited us yesterday, took their stations under the same tree, while a number of gins and children remained on the border of the scrub, half a mile oif. Just before the camp 216 ENCAMPMENT ON THE DARLING. [CH. IV. Lroke up, I went to them, and gave a tomahawk to an old grey-haired man. The chief spokesman was a ferocious for- ward sort of savage, to whom, 1 would rather have given any- thins: than a tomahawk, from the manner in which he handled my pockets. My horse awaited me, and 1 by signs explained to them, that I was going. I suspect that " Watta" is their familiar name for the Darling, from their use of this word, on any sign being made in reference to the river. We pro- ceeded on a bearing of 251°, until at 15 miles and 45 chains, we reached the bank of the Darling. The cattle had been, at some places, rather distressed from the heaviness of the ground, having had scarcely any food for the last two days, except a hard, dry, composite plant, which usurped the place of grass. The camp I had left, which was in other respects a fine position, could not possibly have served as a depot for the cattle. We were extremely fortunate, however, in the jjlace to which the bounteous hand of providence had led us. Abundance of pasture, indeed such excellent grass as we had not seen in the whole journey, covered the fine open forest irround on the bank of the river! There were four kinds, but the cattle appeared to relish most a strong species of an- thistiria, or kangaroo grass. But the position to which we had come, on so straight a line, reaching it, however, only at sunset, surpassed anything I had expected to find on this river. It consisted of the highest ground in the neighbourhood, rising gradually from the lower levels, by which we had ap- proached the river, to an elevated and extensive plateau, overlooking a deep and broad reach. This was covered or protected on the north by a green swamp, which was again shut in by an extensive bend of the Darling. On the west and north-west there was little tlml^er in the way ; and the whole place seemed extremely favourable for the object, about which I was then most anxious — namely, the establishment of a secure d('])c'>t, and place of defi-nce. CHAPTER V. Rain at last — Stockade erected— Named Fort Bourke — Visited by the natives — Mortality among them from small-pox — Results of the journey — Friendly disposition of a native — Boats launched — Presents to natives — They become importunate — We leave the depot and embark in the boats — Slow progress down the river — Return to the depot — Natives in canoes — Excursion with a party on horseback — A perfumed vegetable — Interview with natives — Pre- sent them with tomahawks — Unsuccessful search for Mr. Hume's marked tree — Ascend D'Urban's group — Promising view to the southward — A burnt scrub full of spinous dead boughs — A night without water — Return to the camp — The party proceeds down the Darling — Surprise a party of natives — New acacia — Mr. Hume's tree found — Fall in the Darling — Surprised by a party of natives — Emu killed by the dogs — Dunlop's range — Meet the Puppy tribe — Ascend Dunlop's range — High land discovered to the west- ward— Grass pulled and piled in ricks by the natives — Hills beyond the Darling — Convenient refraction — Native huts — Interview with the Red tribe — The Puppy tribe— How to avoid the sandy hills and soft plains — Macculloch's range — Visit a hill beyond the Darling — View from its summit. May 27. — During the night the wmd blew, and rain fell, for the first time, since the jDarty left the colony. As we had been travelling for the last month on ground, which must have become impassable after two days of wet weather, it may be imagined what satisfaction our high position gave me, when I heard the rain patter. The morning being fair, I reconnoitered the course of the river, and the environs of our camp, and at once selected the spot, on which our tents then stood, for a place of defence, and a station in which the party should be left with the cattle. The boats were immediately lowered from the carriage, and although they had been brought 500 miles across mountain ranges, and through track- less forests, we found them in as perfect a state as when they left the dock-yard at Sydney. Our first care was to erect a strong stockade of rough logs, that we might be secure under any circumstances ; for we had not asked permission to come there from the inhabitants, who had been reported to be numerous, and who would of 218 VISITED BY THE NATIVES. [CH. V. course soon make their appearance. All hands were set to fell trees and cut hranches, and in a very short time, a stock- ade was in progress, capahle of a stout resistance against any number of natives. As the position was, in every respect, a good one, either for its present purpose, or, hereafter perhaps, for a township, and consequently was one important point gained by this expedition, I named it Fort Bourke, after His Excellency the present Governor, the better to mark the epoch in the progress of interior discovery. May 28. — This morning some natives appeared on the opposite bank of the river, shouting and calling, but keeping at a respectful distance from the bullocks, some of which had already crossed. At length they ventured over, and, on my going to meet them, they sat down, about 200 yards from the tents. The party consisted of four men and a boy, fol- lowed by seven women and children, who sat at a little distance behind. The men carried no spears, and looked diminutive and simple ; most of them had had the small-pox, but the marks were not larger than pin heads. 1 found, they had either seen or heard of Captain Sturt's party, for pointing to the sun, they shewed me that six revolutions of that source of heat, had elapsed since the visit of others like us. Other gestures, such as a reference to covering, and ex- pressions of countenance, made their indications of the lapse of time, plain enough. It seemed to me, that the disease which it was understood had raged among them, (probably from the bad water,) had almost depopulated the Darling, and that these people were but the remains of a tribe. The females were numerous in proportion to the males, and they were not at all secluded by the men, as in places where the nu- merical proportions were different. All these natives (with the excej)tion of the boy), had lost the right front tooth. They had a very singular mode of expressing surprise, making a curious short whistle by joining the tongue and lips. The gins were hideous, notwithstanding tiiey were rouged with red ochre, by way, no doubt, of setting off their cbarnis. I gave to one CH. v.] RESULTS OF THE JOURNEY. 219 man, a piece of my sword blade, and to another, a tomahawk, which he carefully wrapt in the paper in which I had kept it, and he seemed much pleased with his present. They pointed to the west, as the general course of the river. The results of our journey thus far, were, first, the survey of the Bogan, nearly from its sources to its junction with the Darling. This, I considered no trifling addition to Australian geography ; for the knowledge of the actual course of a long river, however diminutive the channel, may often determine to a great extent, the character of the country, through which it passes. In the present instance, it may be remarked, that had Captain Sturt considered the course of this river, when he named the lower part of it " New-Year's Creek," the idea, that the plains, which he saw to the southward of New-Year's range, formed the " channel of a broad and rapid river," never could have occurred to him ; for the basin of the Bogan being bounded on the west, by a succes- sion of low hills, no other river could have been reasonably looked for, in such a direction. Again, the connexion of that chain of low hills, with the higher lands of the colony, being thus indicated by the course of the Bogan ; it is not probable, that this traveller, had he been aware of the fact, would have described New-Year's range, which is about the last of these hills, as " ih^ first elevation in the interior of Eastern Aus- tralia, to the westward of Mount Harris." On the contrary, the divergent lines of the Bogan and the Lachlan, might rather have been supposed to include a hilly country, which, increasing in height, in proportion as its breadth thus be- came greater, would naturally form that high ground so likely to separate the Upper Darling from the valley of the Murray. 2ndly. The continuous course of the Bogan into the Dar- ling being thus at length determined. Duck creek, a deeper chain of ponds in the level country nearer to the Macquarie, could only be considered the final channel for the waters of that river, in their course towards the Darling ; and it only 220 FRIENDLY DISPOSITION OF A NATIVE. [cH. V. remained to be ascertained on our return, at what point, these waters of the Macquarie separated during its floods from the main stream. 3rdly. The non-existence of any swamp under Oxley's Table-land, furnished another proof of the extreme vicissi- tudes of climate, to which that part of Australia is subject. This spot had been specially recommended to government by Captain Sturt, as the best place for my depot, on account of the water to be found there, whereas we had found that vici- nity so dry, that had 1 relied too implicitly on the suggestion, I must, as already observed, in all probability, have lost the cattle. 4thly. The water of the Darling, which when discovered had been salt, was now fresh, thus proving, that there was on this last occasion, a greater abundance of water in the river; while the swamp dried up, proved that less remained upon the surface than when this country had been previously visited. The geological character of the country was obvious enough, the hills consisting of quartz rock, and that fine grained red sandstone which characterises the most barren regions of New South Wales. Below this rock granite appeared in the bed of the Bogan, precisely at the place where this river, after along course nearly parallel to the Macquarie, at length takes a remarkable turn westward towards the Darlin<>:. May 29. — We this day completed the stockade, and had felled most of the timber near it ; and I was glad to find, that the blacks had already resumed their usual occupations. One of those, whom I saw yesterday, while passing down the river to-day on a piece of bark, perceived Mr. Larmer fish- ing, upon which ho approached the river bank, and after throwing to liim a fish whicli he had caught, continued in his frail hark to float down the stream. Tliis was a most jjre- posscssing act of kindness, and 1 begged Mr. Larmer to en- deavtiui- to recognise the man ;igain, and sliew our sense of it, by suitable f)re.scnts. CH. v.] EMBARK IN THE BOATS. 221 May 30. — This morning we launched the boats, and one of them, which had never floated before, was called by the men "The Discovery." I therefore named the other "The Resolu- tion," telling them that they had now the names of Captain Cook's two ships for our river navigating vessels. Most of the loads were also arrano;ed to-dav for embarkation, including three months' rations: three months supplies were also left for the garrison, besides a store of one month for the whole party, to serve for the journey home. This day our Vulcan presented me with a good blade, forged on the Darling and tempered in its waters. We were fortunate in our blacksmith, for he also made some good pikes or spear-heads, which he mounted on long poles, to be carried in the boats. May 31. — The same natives with an old man, and a very wild looking young one, covered with red ochre, " total gules," came to their tree, and I went to them. I gave the old man a spike-nail sharpened, but he asked for a toma- hawk, and I then gave him one. This last gift only made our visitors more importunate ; but I at length left them, to attend to more important matters. Soon after, the man to whom I first gave a tomahawk, beckoned me to come to him again, and I went up with my rifle, demanding what more he wanted ; whereupon he only laughed, and soon after pulled my handkerchief from my pocket. I restored it to its place in a manner that shewed I disliked the freedom taken with it. I then sent a ball into a tree a good way off, which seemed to surprise them ; and having made them un- derstand that such a ball would easily pierce through six black fellows, I snapped my fingers at one of their spears, and hastened to the camp. I considered these hints the more necessary, as the natives seemed to think us very simple fools, who were ready to part with every thing. Thus en- lig-htened as to the eSect of our fire-arms, these thankless beggars disappeared ; although several gins and some men still sat on the opposite bank, observing our boats. June 1. — Every thing being ready, I embarked with Mr. 222 THE RIVEU UNNAVIGABLE. [CH. V. Larmer and 14 men, leaving the depot in charge of Joseph Jones (assistant overseer), and six other men, armed with four muskets and as many pistols. We proceeded Avell enough, some way down the river, but at length a shallow reach, first occasioned much delay, and afterwards, rocks so dammed up the channel, that it was necessary to unload and draw the boats over them. Our progress was thus extremely slow, notwithstanding the activity and exertions of the men, who were almost constantly in the water, although a bitter cold wind blew all day. By sunset we had got over a bad place, where there was a considerable fall, when, on looking round the point, we found that the bed of the river was full of rocks, to the extent of nearly a mile. I, therefore, en- camped only a few miles from the depot, the latitude being 30° 9' 59" S. These unexpected impediments to our pro- gress down the river, determined me to return to the depot with the boats, and afterwards to explore its course on horse- back, until I could discover more of its character and ulti- mate course. No time had yet been lost, for the horses and cattle had required some rest ; and the depot was still de- sirable as a place of defence, while I proceeded down with the horses. We had, however, acquired such a knowledge of the bed, banks, and turnings of the river at this part, as could not have been otherwise obtained. The water beinsr beautifully transparent, the bottom was visible at great depths, showing large fishes in shoals, floating like birds in mid-air. What I have termed rocks, are only patches of fer- ruginous clay which fill the lowest part of the basin of this river. The bed is composed either of that clay, or of a fer- ruginous sandstone — exactly similar to that on the coast near Sydney — and which i-esembles what was formerly called the iron-sand of England, where it occurs, as before stated, both as a fresh and saltwater formation. At the narrows the quantity of running water was very inconsiderable, but, perhaps, as much as might have turned a mill. It made some noise among the stones, however, although at the very CH. v.] EXCURSION ON HORSEBACK. 223 low level of this river, compared to its distance from the known coasts, it could not fall much. I was, nevertheless, unwilling to risk the boats among the rocks, or clay banks, and accordingly decided on returning to the camp. June2. — We proceeded up the river with the boats, rein- fecta, and reached the depot about two o'clock, where we found all things going on, as I had directed. As we pulled up the river, two natives appeared at a distance in one of the long reaches, fishing in two small canoes. On observing our boats they dashed the water up, paddling with their spears, and thus scudding with great rapidity to the right bank, where they left their canoes, and instantly disappeared. These vessels were of the simplest construction ; so slight in- deed, that it seemed to us singular how a man could float in one, for it was merely a sheet of bark, with a little clay at each end ; yet there was a fire besides in each, the weather being very cold. A native, when he wishes to proceed, stands erect, and propels the canoe with the short spear he uses in fishing ; striking the water with each end alternately, on each side of the canoe, and he thus glides very rapidly along. June 3. — I set off with four men on horseback to examine the river downwards, proceeding first two miles on a bearing of 151°, and then south-west. At about 20 miles, we made an angle of the river, where the left bank was 50 feet high. None of the usual indications of the neighbourhood of the Darling, appeared here. No flats of polygonum junceum, nor falls in the ground. The river was evidently encroaching on this high bank, which consisted of red sandy earth to the depth of ten feet. Below this stratum was clay mixed with calcareous concretions. The opposite bank was lower and very grassy ; and the water in the river was brackish ; but a small spring oozing from the rocks abovementioned, at about two feet above the water of the river, was perfectly sweet. From this bend, the highest point of D'Urban's group, bore 151° (from north.) About one half of the way, which we had come to-day, lay across plains, the last portion we crossed 224 A PERFUMED VEGETABLE. [CH. V. containing several hollows, thickly overgrown with the poly- gonum junceuni. Between these low parts the ground was rather more elevated than usual, especially where D'Urban's o-roup bore 163° (from north.) The undulations were proba- bly connected with that range, and their position afforded some clue to the western bends of the river. We passed in a scrub, a young gin and a boy. They did not begin to run until we stood still, and had called to them for some time. As there was still light to spare, I proceeded onward, tra- velling west-south-west, and with difficulty regained sight of the river at dusk. Here, the water was still more brackish, but quite good enough for use ; and we passed the night in a hollow by the river side. June 4. — At an angle of the river, below the gully in which we had slept, a rocky dyke crossed the stream in a north-north-west direction. It consisted of a very hard ferruginous sandstone, resembling that on the eastern coast. This must have been another of the many impediments to our boat navigation, had we proceeded by water, and from the general appearance of the river, I was satisfied that a passage witli boats could not have been attempted in its pre- sent state, with any prospect of getting soon down. We travelled on, without seeing the river, from seven until twelve, following a south-west course, then due west, and in this direction, we crossed the broad dry bed of a water-course coming from the south-east, having previously observed high ground on the left. The bed of this water-course was covered with a plant resembling clover or trefoil, but it liad a yellow flower, and a perfume like that of woodrooffe.* A fi-agrant breeze played over this richest of clover fields, and reminded me of new mown hay. The verdure and the perfume were new to my deliglited senses, and my passion for discovei'ing " something rich and strange" was fully gratified, wliile my horse, defying tlu; rein, seemed no less pleased in the midst • See page 'i.'j.'i, ("r Dr. Lindlcy's (lescrii)li<)n dl' this plant. CH. v.] INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES. 225 of SO delicious a feast, as this verdure must have ap- peared to him. The ground seemed to rise before me, and I was proceeding with the intention of ascending the nearest elevation, to look for the Darling, when I suddenly came upon its banks, which were higher, and its bed was broader and deeper than ever ! We had also arrived on it at a point occupied by a numerous tribe of blacks, judging by the num- ber of fires, which we saw through the trees. Their roads appeared in all directions, and their gins were fishing in the river at a distance. In short, the buzz of population gave to the banks, at this place, the cheerful character of a village in a populous country. Conscious of the alarm, our first appearance was likely to produce, although I could not sup- pose, that all the inhabitants would run off, I hastened to the water edge with our horses (for they had not drank that morning), in order that we might, after refreshing them, recover a position favourable for a parley, with whoever might approach us. I was much pleased, though surprised, to find the water again quite fresh, and its current still sus- tained.* Our appearance caused less alarm, than I had even expected. A sturdy man hailed me from a distance, and came boldly up, followed by another very athletic, though old individual, and six younger men with an old woman. I alighted and met them, after sending, at their request, the horses out of sight. With difficulty, I persuaded them at length to go near the horses ; but I endeavoured in vain to gain any information, as to the further course of the river. The Calle-ioatta was still their name for it, as it was higher up. I observed here that the old woman was a loquacious and most influential personage, scarcely allowing the older of the men to say a word. The curiosity of these people was too intense to admit of much attention on their part, at that time, either to our words or gestures, so, after giving them a tomahawk and two large nails, and refusing to let * See pages 298-9. 1 Q 226 SEARCH FOR MR. HUMe's TREE. [CH. V. them have my pocket-handkerchief (no unusual request, for such natives always found it out), I mounted, and we galloped off to the eastward, their very singular mode of expressing surprise, heing audible until we were at some distance. On reaching that point in my track, where I had in the mornino- changed the direction of my ride, I took off to the north- north-east, in search of the river, and at six miles we reached a branch of it, where it formed an island. We did not arrive here until long after sunset, and were, consequently, in an unpleasant state of ignorance as to the locality, but we made our fire in a hollow, as on the preceding night, and could only rely on the surrounding silence for security. The re- sult of the excursion thus far was, that I ascertained that angle of the river which I first made on this tour, to be the part nearest of all to D'Urban's group ; that its general course thence to the lowest position at which I had seen it (the direct distance being 21 miles), is nearly two points more to the westward than the course from the depot ; and that, even at such a distance from Oxley's Table-land and D'Urban's group, the line of the river is evidently influenced by these heights, thus rendering it probable that it might be found to turn still more towards the west or north-west, on its approaching any other hills situated on the left bank. June 5. — I awoke, thankful that we had been again guided to a solitary and secure place of rest. That no tribe veas near, admitted of little doubt, after we had seen the morning dawn and found ourselves awake, for, had our fire been dis- covered by any natives, it was very unlikely that any of us had been permitted to wake again. Being within a mile and a half of where Captain Sturt and Mr. Hume had turned (as indicated by the bearing given by the former of D'Urban's group, viz. 58° E. of S.), I looked along the river bank for tlie tree described by the former as having Mr. Hume's initials cut upon it, but without success, and at ten o'clock I left the river and rode, on the same bearing, to D'Urban's group. The thick scrub, having been previously burnt, pre- CH. v.] VIEW FROM d'uRBAN's GROUP. 227 sented spikes like bayonets, which reduced our hurried ride to a walking pace, our horses winding a course through it as the skeleton trees permitted. In an unburnt open place, I found one solitary specimen of a tree with light bluish green leaves, and a taste and smell resembling mustard. It was no less remarkable for its rare occurrence and solitary character, than for the flavour of its wood and remarkable foliage. I could obtain no seeds of it.* I ascended the highest and most southern summit, anxiously hoping to obtain a view of Dun- lop's range. The view was most satisfactory. I beheld a range, the first I had seen, since I lost sight of Harvey's. It was extensive, and descended towards the river from the south-east, being a different kind of feature from the various detached hills, which cannot form basins for rivers, on these dead levels, nor even supply springs. Dunlop's range cer- tainly was not high, but its undulating crest, vanishing far in the south-east, shewed its connexion with the high ground south of the Bogan ; and a long line of smoke skirting its northern base, afforded fair promise of some river or chain of ponds, near which a native population could live. The course of the Darling was clearly marked out by its extensive plains, and the darker line of large trees, vanishing far in the west. Beyond, or westward of the river, no high ground appeared, no Berkley's range as shewn on the map, unless it might be a slight elevation, so very low and near, as to be visible above the horizon, only from the foot of the hill, on which L then stood, A few detached hills were scattered over the country, between me and the Bogan ; and of these Oxley's Table-land was the most remarkable, being a finer mass by far than Mount Helvelyn. This ridge, the features of which are rather tame, consists of two hills (a and b), the principal, or southern summit (a), being 910 feet, the other 660 feet, above the plain at their base. These heights are 2| miles from each other, which distance comprises the whole extent of D'Urban's * See description of this plant, as discovered in a better state on the banks o£ the Murray, Vol. II. chapter 6. Jmie 5. (Gyrostemon.) Q 2 228 RETURN TO THE CAMP. [CH. V. group, in the line of its summits between north-east and south-west. W Urban' s Group from the West. The Steep and rocky face of the ridge thus formed, is towards the river, or westward. Eastward, lower features branch off, and are connected by slight undulations, with some of the otherwise isolated hills in that quarter. Towards the base, is a very fine-grained sandstone, and at the summit, I found a quartzose rock, possessing a tendency to break into irre- gular polygons, some of the faces being curved. There are a few stunted " pines" on the higher crest, but the other parts are nearly bare. The highest point of Helvelyn (which I take to be the southern summit), is distant from the nearest bend of the Darling 17| miles, on a line bearing 151° from N., and from the highest part of Oxley's Table-land, which bears 4.3° from N. (variation 6° 30' E.) ; it is distant 39 miles. At this sunmiit, the western extremity of Dunlop's range, forms with Oxley's Table-land, an angle coinciding with the general course of the Darling, which flows through the adjacent plains at an average distance of about 16 miles from each of these points. It was nearly sunset, when T mounted my horse at the foot of Helvelyn, intending to return to the Darling, for there being no other water in the whole country at that time, my intention was to travel back to tliis river by moonlight. I had found, however, during my ride to this hill, that the intervening country was covered by a half-burnt scrub, pre- senting sharp points, between which we could scarcely hope to pass in safiUy by moonlight with our horses, since even in daylight, we coukl not proceed, except at a very slow pace. The half-burnt branches were armed with points so CH. v.] THE PARTY LEAVES FORT BOURKE. 229 sharp, as to penetrate, in one instance, the upper part of my horse's hoof, and, in another, a horse's fetlock, from which a portion was drawn measuring more than an inch. I, there- fore, determined to pass the nig-ht at a short distance from the foot of this hill, on a spot where I found some good grass. June 6. — We proceeded to the Darling, where we could, at length, have breakfast and water the horses. Returning from the river along our track to the camp, I arrived there at seven in the evening, with two of the men, the others having fallen behind on account of their horses. Tlie latter, however, came in not long after, although it had been found necessary to leave one poor horse tied in the bush near the camp, until sent for early next morning. On our way back, we discovered that a native having a very large foot, had followed our track for fifteen miles, from where we had first alarmed the gin ; it was, therefore, probable that he had not been far from where we slept in the hollow, on the first evening. June 8. — We broke up our encampment on the position which I had selected for a depot, (and which had served as such during our short absence down the river), and after proceeding two miles on the bearing of 151°, in order to clear the river, we followed my previous track to the south- west. The ground crossed by the party this day, consisted chiefly of plains with little scrub ; and when we had travelled 12| miles, it appearing open towards a bend in the river, we made for the tall trees (our never failing guides to water), on a bearing of 248°. We reached the Darling at 14^ miles, and encamped near it. As we approached this spot, and while I was reconnoitring the bank for the purpose of marking out the camp, I came suddenly upon a party of natives, one of whom giving a short cooy, first made me aware of the circumstance. Burnett went towards them with a branch ; but they hastily gathered up their things and fled. The party appeared to consist of two men and five women, and it doubtless belonged to the same tribe as the 230 JMK. Hume's tree. [ch. v. gins we had previously seen ; and the men were probably those who had traced us so far. The river water was brackish ; and in the bank was a bed of calcareous concretions, which some of the men supposed to be bones. June 9. — Striking again into the original south-west ti-ack, by leaving the river on a bearing of 202° ; we arrived on the eastern bend of it, where we had before breakfasted, and where we now heard natives, as if hastily making their escajje. Continuing the journey to the next bend, lower down, we encamped at the head of the same gully in which I slept on the night between the 4th and 5th of June. On passing through the bush this day, we fell in with a tree that was new to me. It appeared to be very near Acacia eglandulosa (De C), but the branches had so graceful a cha- racter, that I was tempted to draw it, while I awaited the arrival of the carts, whose progress through the spinous scrub already mentioned, was very slow. The wood of this acacia was hard and of a dark brown colour. We gathered some stones of the fruit : and we brought away its stem also. June 10. — The knowledge which I had acquired in my ride down the Darling, now enabled me to follow the most desirable route, in order to avoid the scrub, and travel along the plains near its banks. At five miles and twelve chains, we approached a bend of the river, and found there the remains of a large hut, in the construction of which an axe had been used. It, therefore, occurred to me, that we might be near the tree, where Captain Sturt had turned from the Darling, and I found that the northern head of D'Urban's group bore nearly 58° E. of S., the bearing given by him of this gi'oup. I, therefore, looked along the river bank for the tree in question, but without success. In crossing a dry water-course some miles further on, it occurred to me that this might be the one, at the mouth of which, Mr. Hume had cut his name. I, therefore, sent overseer Burnett and the Doctor to trace the channel down, and to look for a tree 80 marked. Tlicy found at the mouth of the creek a very CH. v.] CATARACT IN THE DARLING. 231 large and remarkable gum-tree, and on the side next the river, the letters H. H. appeared, although the cross-line of one H had o-rown out. The letters seemed to have been cut with a tomahawk, and were about five inches in length. The men cut my initials also on that tree, which to my regret I was prevented from seeing, by a desire to attain a certain point with the party, which I was consequently obliged to lead. We travelled for this purpose until after sunset, and then encamped at a distance of about a mile and a half to the southward of a bend of the Darling. Here, the river formed a cataract of about two feet, falling over some argil- laceous iron-stone: and as the waters glittered in the moon- light, I listened with awe to the unwonted murmur of this mysterious stream ; which poured through the heart of a desert, by its single channel, that element so essential to the existence of all animals. One of the men (Robert Whiting) had examined the river a mile and a half above the fall, and found the water there so very salt that he could not drink it, and he, therefore, proceeded downwards to this fall, where it proved to be good. June 11. — In the morning, while examining the river below the fall, some natives hailed me, from the opposite side, and soon afterwards, having slyly swam the river, they stole suddenly upon us, while 1 sat drawing the cataract. One of our men heard them creeping along the bank above us, whereupon the whole party stood up and laughed. Among them I recognized the old man, whom I had seen a few days previously on my excursion lower down the river. There was another old man, who was more intelli- gent and less covetous than the rest. I gave him a clasp- knife, with which he appeared much pleased, making the most expressive gestures of friendship and kindness, by clasping me around the neck, and patting my back. The number of this tribe, amounted to about twenty. I remarked among them an old woman, having under her especial care, a very fine looking young one. They had swam across the 232 DUN lop's range. [ch. v. river with as little inconvenience as if they had only stepped over it. The teeth and shape of the mouth of the young female, were really beautiful, and indeed her person and modest air presented a good specimen of Australian woman- hood. On leaving us, they loudly pronounced a particular word, which I as often repeated in reply ; and they pointed to the earth and the water, giving us to understand in every way they could, that we were welcome to the water, which they probably considered their own. As we crossed a plain, the dogs set off after three emus, the pursued and the pur- suers disappearing in the woods. Some time after, while passing through a scrub, we came upon the dogs standing quietly beside a dead emu. If not the first killed by them, it was at least the first that fell into our hands ; and if this vvere the only one they had killed, it was singular enough, that the capture should have happened exactly in the line of our route. This acquisition we considered a favourable omen on our approaching the hills, for we had begun to despair of obtaining any of these swift though gigantic birds, inhabitants of the plains. At length we reached rising ground, rather a novelty to us ; and I continued my course across a ridge, which appeared to be connected, on the south, with Dunlop's range. It consisted of a very hard conglo- merate composed of irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, in a ferruginous basis, with apparently compact felspar weathering white. It seemed the same kind of rock which I found nearest to the Karaula, in latitude 29°.* On this hill, we encamped for the night, the bend of the river nearest to us, bearing north-north-east, and being distant about two miles. It was almost sunset, before we took up our ground, and we had still to seek the nearest way to the river, through woods. Such occasions tried the mettle of my men ; but he who, at the close of such days, was the first to set out for the river, with his bucket in liand, and jnuskct on shoulder, was the man for me. Such men were • See page 93. CH. v.] MEET THE PUPPY TRIBE. 233 Whiting", Muirhead, and "the Doctor;" and although I insisted on several going together, on such an errand, I had some trouble to prevent these from setting out alone. The river made a sharp turn northward, and at the bend the water was deeper and broader, than we had seen it elsewhere. The taste was perfectly sweet. June 12. — We travelled for several miles, over stony ground, which gradually rose to a hill on our right, and then declined rapidly to the river. Descending, at length, to the level ground, we passed through much scrub, which terminated on a plain, bounded on the side, opposite to us, by the large gum-trees or eucalypti, the never failing indi- cators of the river. The stream there ran in a rather con- tracted channel, and over a sandy bed. Its course was to the southward, in which direction extensive plains appeared to stretch along its bank. As I approached the river, a tribe of natives, who were seated very near me at their fires, under a large tree, called out. We communicated in the usual manner, but I could learn nothing from them, about the general course of the Darling lower down. I gave them a clasp-knife, and two young pups of a good breed for killing kangaroos. They expressed astonishment at every thing (no common trait in the aborigines), and I Avas obliged to sit cross-legged before a very old chief nearly blind, while he examined my dress, shirt, pockets, &c. This tribe, like the others, was not at all numerous. We proceeded until we arrived under the north-western extremity of Dunlop's range, when we encamped on the margin of a small lagoon, evidently the remains of some flood, which had been produced by the overflowing of the river, only half a mile distant to the north-west. The lagoon was more convenient to us, for watering our cattle, than the river, the left bank of which, adjacent to our camp, was broken to a much greater distance back than I had observed it to be any where higher up. June 13. — The wheels of the two carts requiring some 234 VIEW FROM DUNLOP'S RANGE. [CH. V. repairs, and it being also necessary to shoe several horses, I thought it advisable to rest the party this day : I wished also to ascend Dunlop's range. On climbing to the top, I found that it consisted of a chain of hills, composed of a very hard sandstone, or quartz rock, similar to that of D'Urban's group. The summit was bare, not only of trees, but even of grass, or any vegetation. This nakedness was, however, the more favourable for my chief object, which was to obtain a view of the distant country. The weather was not very auspicious, the sky being cloudy, and slight showers fell oc- casionally. The height of these hills is not considerable, the summit of that which I ascended was about 528 feet above the plains. It was seven miles to the south-east of the camp ; and at the north-west extremity of the range, or the most western part visible from D'Urban's group. 1 never as- cended a hill with feelings of keener interest in the views it commanded. Eastward, I beheld that hilly country, which I had always considered to lie in the best line of exploration ; and from this point it looked well. I could easily trace the further course of the Darling for about 20 miles westward ; but the most remarkable feature discoverable from the hill, was the undulating character of the country to the north-west beyond the river. That region no longer presented a dead flat like the ocean, but had upon it various eminences, some resembling low portions of table-land, others being only undulations raised a little above the common level ; but the whole country was much variegated with wood and plain. June 14. — We moved forward along the plains, keeping the river in sight, on the right ; and after travelling 13^ miles, we encamped close to it. The banks were so steep at this part, that the cattle could not be got down without considerable difficulty. The water was quite sweet. June 15. — We continued our journey in a south-west direction, and thus crossed various slight eminences, con- nected with a range, which lay nearly parallel to our route, CH. v.] THE ''OCCA" TRIBE. 235 on the left, and was named by me, Rankin's Range. Some natives followed us, during a part of this day, shouting, and at length came boldly up to the head of the column. They were very greedy, coveting every thing they^ saw ; and holding out their hands, uttering constantly, in an authori- tative tone, the word " Occa "! which undoubtedly means "give"! I had not been in their presence one minute, before their chief, a very stout fellow, drew forth my pocket- handkerchief, while a boy took my Kater's compass from the other pocket, and was on the point of running off with it. I gave a clasp-knife to the chief, when another of the party most importunately demanded a tomahawk. Observing that he carried a curious stone hatchet, I offered to exchange the tomahawk for it, to which he reluctantly agreed. I left them at last disgusted with their greediness ; and I determined henceforward to admit no more such specimens of wild men to any familiarity with my clothes, pockets, or accoutrements. They paid no attention to my questions about the river. When the party moved on, they followed, and when I halted or rode back they ran off ; thus alter- nately retiring and returning, and calling to the men. At last I galloped my horse at them, whereupon they disap- peared altogether in the bush. At 10^ miles, we came upon the river, and encamped where it was very deep and broad, the banks and also the flood marks being much lower than further up the Darling. June 16. — We were compelled to turn east for half a mile, to clear a bend in the river to our left, which, impinging upon some rather high ground, left us no very good passage. The course of the river, lower down, was such, that after travelling many miles to the south-west, and two to the west and north-west, I was obliged to encamp, without being able to find it. By following a hollow, however, which de- scended in a north-east direction from our camp, the river was discovered by our watering party, in the evening, at the distance of about three miles. The countrv, which we had 236 HIGH LAND DISCOVERED IN THE WEST. [CH. V. crossed this clay, was of a somewhat different character from any yet passed, consisting of low, bare eminences, bounding extensive, open plains, on which were hollows on a clay bot- tom surrounded by jjolygonum jimceum, and evidently the receptacles of water at other times. The hills, if the bare eminences might be so called, were composed of a red sandy soil, producing only salsolse and composite plants, but no grass. This red sand was so loose, that the wheels of the carts sank in it, at some places, to the axles. There were bold undulations where we encamped ; all declining towards the hollow connected with the river. There was also a little hill, overlooking plains to the north and west. We passed a solitary tree of a remarkable character, related to Banisteria, the wood being white and close grained, much resembling beech. As it pleased the carpenters, I gathered some of the seeds. This evening by observation of the star a Crucis, 1 ascertained the variation to be 7° 52' 15^^' E. June 17. — We descried, from a tree not far from the camp, hills to the westward, and the interest with which we now daily watched the horizon, may easily be imagined, for on the occurrence and direction of ridges of high land, depended the course of the Darling, and its union with other rivers, or discharge into the sea on the nearest line of coast. A range extending from west to north-v/est was in sip-ht, also a lower ridge, but apparently on the other side of the river. The cattle having separated on its banks during the night, they were not brought up so early as usual ; and in the inte- rim I endeavoured to repair the barometer, which was out of order. This accident had occurred in consequence of the man having carried it, contrary to my orders, slung round his body, instead of holding it in his hand. Much of the quicksilver had shaken out of the bag, and lodged in the lower part of the cylinder ; but by filing the brass, and let- ting off this mercury, the instrument was rendered once more serviceable. We travelled this day due west, and at the end of 72 miles we encamped on a bend of the river where the CH. v.] NATIVE HAY-RICK3. 237 ■water was deep, and the banks rather low, but very steep. The sky became overcast, ahnost for the first thne, since we had advanced into these interior regions, and at sunset it began to rain. The position of the hills, and the direction of the river, were here particularly interesting, as likely soon to decide the question respecting the ultimate course of this solitary stream, on which our lives depended, in this dry and naked wilderness ! June 18. — The morning was fine as usual, the rain which fell during the night, had only laid the dust. We proceeded south-west, until the bends of the river obliged me to move still more to the southward. The hills on the opposite bank at length receded, and we saw before us only a wide desert plain, where nothing seemed to move, and the only indica- tion of life throughout this melancholy waste, was a distant column of dark smoke ascending in remarkable density to the sky. In the afternoon, the wind blowing keenly from the west-south-west, we encamped amongst some polygonum J)ushes near the river, after travelling lOj miles. June 19. — A thick haze came on, with an extremely cold wind from the south-west ; and, as it was necessary to look well before me, in this part of our journey, I gave the men and cattle the benefit of a day's rest. The river was so shal- low, that it seemed almost possible to step across it ; and no deep reaches appeared in its bed. This probably was the reason, why no natives were in the vicinity, as in such deep parts only can they find fish. The quantity of water con- tinued the same as when we first came on the river 120 miles higher up. In the neighbourhood of our camp the grass had been pulled, to a very great extent, and piled in hay-ricks, so that the aspect of the desei't was softened into the agree- able semblance of a hay-field. The grass had evidently been thus laid up by the natives, but for what purpose we could not imagine. At first, I thought the heaps were only the remains of encampments, as the aborigines sometimes sleep on a little dry grass ; but when we found the ricks, or hay- 238 HILLS BEYOND THE DARLING. [CH. V. cocks, extending for miles, we wei'e quite at a loss to under- stand why they had been made. All the grass was of one kind, a new species of Pajiicum related to P. effusimiR. Br.* and not a spike of it was left in the soil, over the whole of the ground. A cucurbitaceous plant had also been pulled up, and accumulated in smaller heaps ; and from some of the roots the little yam had been taken, but on others it re- mained. The surface, naturally soft, thus appeared as bare as a fallow field. I found a pole about 20 feet long, with a forked end, set upright, by having one end planted in the ground, and fixed by many sticks and pieces of old stumps from the river. As the natives erect similar poles on the banks of the Darling, to stretch their nets on for taking- ducks, it is probable that the heaps of grass had been pulled here, for some purpose connected with the allurement of birds or animals. June 20. — The morning was fine, but a heavy dew had fallen during the night. We proceeded across ground quite open, herbless, and so very soft, that even my horse waded through it with difficulty. At length, we gained some gentle rises, at the base of which, the soil was a clay, so tenacious as to have hollows in its surface, which, during wet seasons, had evidently retained water for a considerable time. A fine hill, apparently connected with a range extending north- ward, at length became visible beyond the right bank of the river, and, as I had previously observed in one or two simi- lar cases, the Darling took a westerly turn towards the hill, 80 that this day's journey was not much to the south of west. On one of the low eminences which we crossed, a new species of parrot was shot, having scarlet feathers on the breast, those on the head and wings being tinged a beautiful blue, and on the back, &c. a dark brownish green.-)- The round • p. lutvinode, CLinrll. Ms3.) ; paniculfi ronipositA contractu capillari, rainis pcdiccllisquo floxuosis, spiciilis acutis glabris, gluiuii cxteriore rotuudata, laxii : interiore ."i-nervi, foliis vaginis geniculisque glabris licvibus. t Tliig bird has since been named by Mr. Gould PhUyccrms licematoyaaler. ClI. v.] CONVENIENT REFRACTION. 239 knolls consist of a red earth, which is different from the soil of the plains ; its basis appearing to be iron-stone. We en- camped on good firm ground, and there was abundance of good grass on the river bank. We were not very far from the heights on the opposite side; a branch from them ex- tending nearly to the river. Jiine 21. — The ground was much better this day for tra- velling over. We passed through a scrub of limited extent, and for the first time, in these parts, we discovered a new species of casuarina. On ascending a small hill to the left of our route, I perceived two summits of a distant range, bear- ing 169° 20' (from N.) ; and I was not sorry to see that the intervening country was better wooded and undulated more than that we had lately traversed, for wherever trees or bushes grew, we generally found the ground to be hardest. We were compelled to travel much further than I intended in order to reach the river, which took a great sweep to the west, a change in its direction which I had previously ob- served to take place in the course of this river on approach- ing a similar feature on the right bank. The river was nar- rower, and its channel more contracted at this part than at any other I had seen ; indeed, so great was the change in the dimensions, that I doubted whether this was more than an arm of it. The current, however, ran at about the same rate, and the general course for some miles to the southward, was marked out, as usual, by large trees. At the camp, the head of the range on the right bank, bore N. 16° W. June 22. — The distant range which I observed during the journey of yesterday, appeared high above the horizon of our camp this morning, and the refracted image was so perfect, that with my glass I could distinguish the trees, and other objects. Thus I obtained bearings on the range, from a spot whence it could be but seldom visible. The small emi- nences to the eastward, from which I first saw that range, were also refracted, and appeared like cliff's on a sea coast. To the astonishment of the men, all the hills, however, soon 240 INTERVIEW WITH THE RED TRIBE. [CH. V. disappeared. The Darling took some bends eastward of south ; and we were much troubled during this day's jour- ney, by the soft ground through which we were obliged to travel, in order to keep clear of the river. At length, I could proceed south-west, and on reaching, at 12| miles, a bend in the channel, I saw one of the low ridges extending Avestward. On ascending it 1 discovered a range to the south- west, apparently connected with that already seen to the south, and from the many beaten paths of the natives, it seemed probable that this angle was the nearest to the hilly country which lay to the south-east. There were also per- manent huts on both banks, the first of the kind I had seen, large enough certainly to contain a family of 15 persons ; and in one there had recently been a fire. They were semi- circular, and constructed of branches of trees, well thatched with straw, forming altogether a covering of about a foot in thickness, and they were well able to afford a ready and dry shelter in bad weather. In this respect the inhabitants of that part of the Darling, may be considered somewhat before their brethren further eastward, as rational beings. These permanent huts seemed also to indicate a race of more peace- ful and settled habits, for where the natives are often at war, such Iiabitations could neither be permanent nor safe. The river was here itself again, and not contracted, as at the last encampment. June 23. — Early this morning, the natives were heard hailing us from the woods, and as soon as I had breakfasted, I advanced to them with Burnett. They were seventeen in number, and five or six of the foremost held out green boughs. I also pulled one, but they called to me, and beckoned me to lay aside my sword, which I accordingly did, and then they all sat down. They had good, expressive countenances, ))ut they were not strong looking men. One, whose physiognomy I thought very prepossessing, and much iiiij)rovt'd by the cheeks and other features being coloured n'd, appeared to be their chief. He sat in the middle of the CH. v.] INTERVIEW WITH THE RED TRIBE. 241 front row, and though he said but little, yet he was addressed by the more forward and talkative. This rough, manly, rosy-faced fellow, was such a figure as Neptune or Jupiter are usually represented ; he had also a flowing beard. The group were almost all marked with the small-pox. 1 could not gain any certain information from them, about the course of the river, or the bearing of the nearest sea ; but they all pointed to the north-north-west, when I made signs of row- ing in water, or of large waves, &c. On quitting them, I presented the king with a greyhound pup and a tomahawk. A total ignorance of the nature of the latter, was a proof, that we were indeed strangers to them ; for, although the tool had a handle, they knew not what use to make of it, until I shewed them. We left them quite delighted with both gifts, which were doubtless as important to them, as the dis- covery of a sea would then have been to me. The journey of this day, opened prospects the most promising for such a dis- covery, for the river from that bend pursued a more westerly course. Ranges beyond ranges arose also in the south-west, while vast plains, without any indication of the Darling among them, extended before us to the west-south-west. I had some trouble indeed to get as near to the river, as was indispensable for encampment ; but at length we halted on a firm bit of ground, close to a very sharp bend in its course. June 24. — We proceeded nearly west, over open ground, skirted on the south by gentle eminences of red earth. There plains of soft naked soil, were most distressing to the bul- locks, and even to horses, and men on foot ; in the general direction of the river, these plains extended to the horizon, but the southern boundary of small hills was a peculiar feature, not observed higher up. Though the base of these eminences consisted of fine blue clay, yet their tops were so sandy and soft, that the carts sank deeper than on the plains. It was my study to keep along the side of these hills, as much as my route would permit; for, in general, the best line for travelling through the valley of the Darling, is along 1 B 242 macculloch's range. [ch. v. the edging of stiff clay, always to be found near the base of the red sand hills, which form the limits of those softer plains that usually extend for several miles back from the river. On ascending the highest of the hills on my left, I discovered, that the ground to the southward was much more broken, and the appearance of a valley between me and a range, which I named after Dr. Macculloch, raised my hopes of finding some change in the country. On ascending, however, another eminence to the right, I perceived the summit of a hill, which bore west-north-west, and rather discouraged my hopes respecting the river, for I had assumed that its new direction towards the westward would continue. We crossed the hill, and encamped about two miles to the south- ward of a bend of the river. Here, there was a fall of about four feet over masses of ferruginous clay, with selenites em- bedded.* The banks were lower at this point than usual, and the quantity of running water was rather increased, pro- bably from the springs, which we had latterly observed in great abundance in the banks, generally about two feet above the surface of the stream. On the plains, this day, we found much selenite. June 25. — There was again a considerable mirage or re- fraction this morning, on the rising of the frost ; and I has- tened to a small hill, near our camp, that I might behold the transient vision of a distant horizon. The view was most interesting, for the high lands on all sides, appeared raised as if by magic ; and I thus discovered, that the hill, previ- ously seen in the west, was connected with a chain, which extended round to the north, and that there was higher land to the southward of Macculloch's range ; the highest point being to the east, or east-north-east, beyond the hill discovered on the 21st instant. The horizon was lowest to- wards the west-south-west, for even in the south-west, I could perceive a rise, sufiicient to confine the course of the river to the west-south-west. We proceeded nearly west by south, • This clay, in the opinion of geologists, has every appearance of a mud deposit. CH. v.] HILLS BEYOND THE DARLING. 243 over a softlbed of naked earth, across which, at one place, a well-beaten road of the natives led to the valley on the south, and to some water-course, if not to water itself. After 10| miles of weary travelling, we encamped on a bend of the Dar- ling, in latitude 31° 31^ 20" S. The soil of the plains being extremely soft, uneven, and full of holes, the cattle were, at length, almost unable to get through their allotted journies ; I, therefore, determined to let them rest during the three following days, while I pro- ceeded to the hills beyond the Darling, in a west-north-west direction neai'ly, and distant from our camp 11§ miles. June 26. — I forded the Darling, where the bottom was a hard clay ; and I proceeded in a direction bearing 27° north of west, to the hill. Thei'e was much less of the soft soil on this bank, and at a mile from the ford, we travelled on very- firm clay, quite clear of vegetation, white, shining, and level as ice. At about seven miles from the river, Ave reached the first rise of firm red earth. The vegetation upon it, consisted of the two species of atriplex so very common on that soil, and more of the salsolae, than I had before seen. This rise seemed to mark the extent of the bed of clay, through which the Darling flows, at least as far as we had hitherto traced it. The country was open to about three miles from the summit, where we passed through a scrub of stunted casuarinae, interspersed with a few of the acacia with spotted bark. Here we crossed some beds of conglomerate, consisting of grains and pebbles of quartz, cemented by a hard ferruginous matrix, probably decomposed felspar ; and we saw soon after a few blocks of the same hard sandstone, which occurs at Dunlop's range, and other high points. The summit, con- sisting of the same rock, was very broad, and strewed with small stones, and partly covered with a dwarf acacia bush, which gave an uniform tinge, like heath, to the whole coun- try, as far as my view extended to the westward. The horizon to the west and south-west, was finely broken by hills resembling Oxley's Table-land and D'Urban's group, but the day was hazy, and I looked in vain for any indication u 2 244 MOUNT MURCHISSON. [CH. V. of water. The heights towards the south-west appeared too detached also to promise any ; more resembling islands in a sea, or pinnacles, only halt" emerged from a deluge, so level was the general surface. Towards the north-west, however, the heights did seem connected, and had the appearance of being the loftier summits of very distant ranges; especially an eminence bearing 21° north of west, which I named Mount Lyell. There was also an isolated and remarkable summit, which bore 50|° north of west, to which I gave the name of my friend. Dr. Daubeny. The lower ground seemed to undulate, but no part of it was intersected by open plains, or any lines of large river trees, indicating the permanent existence of water. On the contrary, as far as I could judge from colour and outline, the same thick dwarf scrub ap- peared to be the universal covering of the land ; neither could I distinguish any smoke or other trace of human in- habitants, nor even the track of a single emu or kangaroo in that trans- Darling region. Still, it was impossible to ascertain from the hill, whether any streams did flow through the country beyond, although appearances were by no means in favour of such a conclusion. Neither could I distinguish from that summit, as I hoped to do, the ultimate course of the Darling, as the line of large trees upon its banks continued, as far as I could distinguish, in the same direc- tion. Another low but extensive range, exactly resembling that to the eastward of our camp, was visible on the horizon beyond it, and seemed to be the limit of its bed or basin, on the casterii or left bunk, and the range certainly did differ most essentially in its outline from the hills on the right bank, being the last and lowest termination of the higher ranges in the east. As we descended, I named the first hill beyond the Darling, ever ascended by any European, after my friend Mr. Murchisson, a gentleman who has so greatly advanced the science of geology. We re-crossed the river at the ford, just as the sun was going down, and 1 had the satisfaction Id Hud, that no natives had visited the camp during my absence. CHAPTER VI. Natives of the Spitting tribe — Singular behaviour on the discharge of a pistol — Conjectures — Second interview with the Spitting tribe — Strange cere- monial— Amusing attempts to steal, or diamond cut diamond — Dry channel of a stream — Tombs on the sand hills — White balls on tombs — Australian shamrock — Old canoe — Dry state of the country — Danger and difficulty of watching the cattle on the river banks — Uniform character of the Darling — The Grenadier bird — The " Doctor" and the natives — A range discovered by refraction — Dance of natives — A lake — Tombs of a tribe — Plan of natives' huts — Method of making cordage — The tall native's first visit — Channel of a small stream — The carts beset on the journey by very covetous natives — Mischievous signals — Cattle worn out — The tall man again — Ap- proach of the Fishing tribe — Covetous old man — Conduct on witnessing the effect of a shot — The party obliged to halt from the weak state of the cattle — The natives very troublesome — Singular ceremonies — Ichthyophagi — Their manner of fishing — The burning brand — A tribe from the south-east — The old man appears again with a tribe from the south-west — Small streams from the west — The Darling turns southward — Resolve to return — Descrip- tion of the country on the banks of the river — The men at the river obliged to fire upon the natives— Steady conduct of the party — Origin of the dispute — Narrow escape of Muirhead — Treacherous conduct of the aborigines— Me- lancholy reflections. June 27. — About nine o'clock this morning, Joseph Jones came in to report, that a native had pointed a spear at him when he was on the river bank with the sheep ; and that this native, accompanied by a boy, kept his ground in a position which placed the sheep entirely in his power, and prevented Jones from driving them back. He added, that on his hold- ing out a green bough, the man had also taken a bough, spit upon it, and then thrust it into the fire. On hastening to the spot with three men, I found the native still there, no way daunted, and on my advancing towards him with a twig, he shook another twig at me, quite in a new style, waving it over his head, and at the same time intimating 246 THE SPITTING TRIBE. [CH. VI. with it, that we must go back. He and the boy then threw up dust at us, in a clever way, with their toes.* These various expressions of hostility and defiance, were too intelli- gible to be mistaken. The expressiv^e pantomime of the man plainly shewed the identity of the human mind, how- ever distinct the races, or different the language — but his loud words were, of course, lost upon us. Overseer Burnett very incautiously stole up, and sat unarmed and defenceless within five yards of him. All Burnett's endeavours to con- ciliate and inspire confidence, had but little effect upon the savage, who merely lowered his tone a little, and then ad- vancing a few steps, addressed himself no longer to me, but to him. I felt some apprehension for the safety of Burnett, but it was too late to call him back. We were seated in the usual form, at the distance of at least one hundred yards from him, and the savage held a spear, raised in his hand. At length, however, he retired slowly along the river bank, making it evident, by his gestures, that he was going for his tribe ; and singing a war-song as he went. The boy in particular seemed to glory in throwing up the dust at us, and I had not the least doubt, but certainly not the slightest wish, that we should see this man again. About half-past four in the afternoon, a party of the tribe made their appearance in the same quarter ; holding out boughs, but according to a very different ceremonial from any * Strange as this custom appears to us, it is quite consistent with some passages in the early history of mankind. King David and his host met with a similar reception at Bahurim. — " And as David and his men went by the way, Shlmei wont along on the liill's side over against liim, and cursed as he went, and threw stones at him, and cast dust." 2 Sam. xvi. 13. So also we read in Acts xxii. 23, " They cried out, and cast ofi' their clothes, and threw dust into the air.'' Frequent mention is made of this as the practice of the Arabians, in Ockley's History of the Saracens, when they would express their contempt of a person speaking, and their abhorrence of what he ])ublicly pronounces. We find also this' directly stated in Light's Travels in Jigypt, p. (i4. " One more violent than the rest, threw dust into the air, the signal both of rage and defiance, ran for his shield, and came towards me dancing, howling, and striking the shield wifii the Ik ad of his javelin, to intimidate me." CH. VI.] DANCE AT A PISTOL SHOT. 247 hitherto observed towards us by the aborigines. They used the most violent and expressive gestures, apparently to in- duce us to go back, whence we had come ; and as I felt, that we were rather unceremonious invaders of their countrv, it was certainly my duty to conciliate them by every possible means. Accordingly I again advanced, bearing a green branch on high, but the repulsive gestures then becoming much more violent than before, I stopped at some distance from the party. Honest Vulcan, our blacksmith, (two or three men being near him) was at work with his bellows and anvil, near the river bank. This man's labour seemed to excite very much their curiosity ; and again the overseer and Bulger advanced quietly towards those natives, who had approached nearest to the blacksmith. Hearing at length much laughter, I concluded that a truce had been effected as usual, and I too walked forward with my branch. But on going to the spot, I found that all the laughter came from our party, the natives having refused to sit down, and continuing to wave the branches in our people's faces, having also repeatedly spit at them ; the whole of which conduct was good-naturedly borne in hopes of establishing a more amicable intercourse. As a peace-offering, I then presented the man who appeared to be the leader, with a tomahawk, the use of which he imme- diately guessed by turning round to a log and chopping at it. Two other stout fellows, (our morning visitor being one of them) then rudely demandedmy pistols from my belt; where- upon I drew one, and, curious to see the effect, I fired it at a tree. The scene which followed, I cannot satisfactorily de- scribe, or represent, although I shall never forget it. As if they had previously suspected we were evil demons, and had at length a clear proof of it, they repeated their gesticulations of defiance with tenfold fury, and accompanied the action with demoniac looks, hideous shouts and a war-song — crouching, jumping, Spitting, springing with the spear, and throwing dust at us, as they slowly retired. In short, their hideous crouching postures, measured gestures, and low jumps, all to 248 CUARACTER OF DIFFERENT TRIBES. [CH. VI. the tune of a wild song, with the fiendish glare of their coun- tenances, at times all black, but now all eyes and teeth, seemed a fitter spectacle for Pandemonium, than the light of the bounteous sun. Thus these savages slowly retired along the river bank, all the while dancing in a circle like the witches in Macbeth, and leaving us in expectation of their return, and perhaps an attack in the morning. Any further attempt to appease them was out of the question. Whether they were by nature implacable, or whether their inveterate hostility proceeded from some cause of disquiet or apprehen- sion unimaginable by us ; it was too probable, they might ere long force upon us the painful necessity of making them acquainted with the superiority of our arms. The man- ner and disposition of these people, were so unlike those of the aborigines in general, that I hoped they might be an excep- tion to the general character of the natives we were to meet with : an evil disposed tribe perhaps, at war with all around them. The difference in disposition between tribes not very remote from each other was often striking. We had left, at only three days' journey behind us, natives as kind and civil as any I had met with ; and 1 was rather at a loss now to un- derstand, how they could exist so near fiends like these. I believe the peculiar character of different tribes, is not to be easily changed by circumstances. I could certainly mention more instances of well than evil disposed natives on the Dar- ling ; where indeed, until now, all had met us with the branch of peace. We had not yet accomplished one half of our journey to the Murray, from the junction of the Bogan and Darling; and it was no very pleasing prospect, to have to travel such a distance, through a country which might be occupied by inhal)itants like these. In the present case I hoped, that our patient forbearance and the gift of the tomahawk, Mould deter our late visitors, if any thing human were in their feelings, from annoying us more : and if not, that their great dread of the pistol, would at least keep them at a distance. CH. VI.] STRANGE CEREMONIAL. 249 June 28. — The natives did not appear in the morning, as we had expected, but at three in the afternoon, their voices were again heard in the woods. I ordered all the men to be on the look out, and when the natives came near, I sent Burnett towards them, once more with a branch, but with orders to retire upon any indication of defiance. It turned out, as I had supposed, that their curiosity and desire to get something more, had brought them forward again. An old man was at length prevailed on to join Burnett, and to sit down by him. This was effected, however, but very slowly, the others standing at a great distance, and some who re- mained in the rear, still making signs of defiance. Others of the tribe at length joined the old man, but they prepared to return on my approach, recognising me perhaps as the owner of the pistol. On seeing this, I directed Burnett to give a clasp-knife to the old man, who seemed much pleased with the present. They next made a move towards the spot where the blacksmith was at work, commencing at the same time a kind of jjrofessional chaunt, and slowly waving their green boughs. The appearance of one of these men, in par- ticular, was very odd. There was evidently some superstition in the ceremony, this personage being probably a coradje or priest. He was an old man with a large beard and bushy hair, and the lower part of his nose was wanting, so that the apex of that feature formed more than a right angle, giving him an extraordinary appearance. None, except himself and other ancients, wore any kind of dress ; and this consisted of a small cloak of skins fastened over the left shoulder. While the man from the woods waved his bough aloft, and chaimted that monotonous hymn, an idea of the ancient druids arose in my mind. It was obvious the ceremony belonged to some strange superstition. He occasionally turned his back to- wards each of us, like " the grisly priest with murmuring prayer;" he touched his eye-brows, nose, and breast, as if crossing himself, then pointed his arm to the sky ; afterwards laid his hand on his breast, chaunting with an air of remark- 250 AMUSING ATTEMPTS TO STEAL. [CH. VI. able solemnity, and abstracted looks, while at times his branch " he held on high, With wasted hand and haggard eye. And strange and mingled feelings woke, While his anathema he spoke."*- Scott. All this contrasted strangely with the useful occupation of honest Vulcan, whom I had positively enjoined not to laugh, or stop working. At length, I prevailed on an old man to sit down by me, and gave him a clasp-knife in order to check the search, he was disposed to make through my pockets. Meanwhile, the others came around the forge, and immedi- ately began to pilfer, whatever they could lay either hand or foot upon. While one was detected making off with a file, another seized something else, until the poor blacksmith could no longer proceed with his work. One set his foot on an axe, and thus, all the while staring the overseer (who eyed him) in the face, he quickly receded several yards, jumping backwards, to another, who stood ready behind him to take the tool. Some jogged their neighbours at the mo- ments most opportune for plundering ; and an old man made amusing attempts to fish up a horse-shoe into the hollow of a tree. The best of this part of the scene was, that they did not mind being observed by any one, except the blacksmith, supposing that they were robbing him only. Vulcan was at last tempted to give one of them a push, when a scene of chaunting, spitting,t and throwing dust, commenced on * Burder in his Oriental Customs says (No. 187), "An opinion prevailed both in those days and after ages, that some men had a power, by tlie help of their gods, to devote not only particular persons, but whole armies to destruc- tion. This they are said to have done, sometimes by words of imprecation, of which there was a set form among some people, which iEschines calls Sioqi^o- fitvt)v apav, the determinate crirse. Sometimes tlicy also offered sacrifices, and used certain rites and ceremonies witli solemn charms." t " The malediction of the Turks, as of other oriental nations, is frequently expressed in no other way than by spitthuj on t/te ground."— Clarke's Travels, vol. ill. page 225. Mons. D'Arvieux tells us, " the Arabs are sometimes disposed to think, that when a person spits, it is done out of contempt; and that they CH. VI.] HOSTILE MOVEMENTS. 251 tbe part of the thief, who was a stout fellow and carried a spear, which he seemed inclined to use. Notwithstanding all the vigilance of several men appointed to watch the arti- cles about the forge, an excellent rasp or file was carried off. The natives left our party, however, in a perfectly civil way, and we were right glad to feel at peace with them, on any terms. June 29. — At length we were ready to quit this spot, and gladly continued our journey, in hopes of leaving our trou- blesome neighbours also. After proceeding some way, however, Mr. Larmer's horse pitched him over its head, and galloped back to the place, which we had so willingly quitted. Just then the natives emerged from their woods in greater numbers than ever, being painted white, many carrying spears, and shouting. This startled the horse and made him again gallop away, and we halted on the edge of a plain until Mr. Larmer recovered the animal; which was the more easily accomplished, as the attention of the natives was fortunately fixed chiefly on us. They repeated all their menaces and expressions of defiance, and as we again proceeded, the whole of their woods appeared in flames. I never saw such unfavourable specimens of the aborigines as these children of the smoke, they were so barbarously and implacably hostile and shamelessly dishonest, and so little influenced by reason, that the more they saw of our superior weapons and means of defence, the more they shewed their hatred and tokens of defiance. The day's journey was over a firmer surface than usual, and we encamped on a bend of the river in latitude 31° 36' 48'' S. June 30. — The party moved off early. The ground we travelled over, or rather through, was very soft and exceed- ingly heavy for the draught animals. At about five miles, we approached a line of trees, extending from the hollow, never do it before their superiors. But Sir J. Cliardiii's MS. goes mucli fur- ther; he tells us, in a note on Numb. xii. 14, that spitting before any one, or spitting upon the ground in speaking of any one's actions, is throughout the East, an expression of extreme detestation." — Harmer, vol. iv, page 420. 252 DRY CHANNEL OF A STREAM. [CH. VI. which for some days past, had appeared between us and the hills on our left. On examining it, I found that it was the dry bed of what had been a considerable stream, preserving a uniform breadth of about 50 yards ; and having lines of fiood-marks upon the bank, similar to those of the Darling, and risino- to the heio-ht of eidit or nine feet. Trees, such as characterized the banks of the Darling, but of smaller size, grew on its banks, which had also their flats of poly- gonum, and small gullies, similar to those on that river, but on a lesser scale. Upon the whole, it was evident that this channel, at some seasons, was filled with a body of water, the sources of which were in the high ground, between the Lachlan and the Bogan. We had observed so many paths of the natives leading from the Darling towards the country whence this river bed ranged, that for several days we were of opinion, water was still to be found there. The utter dryness of the bed, was not surprising at a season when large dead fresh -water muscles, weighing 3| ounces, projected, amid the roots of the grass of two summers — and from ground, which was the firmest we could find for tra- velling upon with carts. Crossing to the left bank of this river bed, we continued our course towards an angle of the Darling, until we came again on this tributary, as I sup- posed it to be. I, therefore, again continued along its left bank, because it aft'orded firmer ground than the cracked plains— and in expectation that it would lead to some near turn of the main river. When we were rapidly approach- ing the larger trees by which the latter was known, the dry channel of the minor stream suddenly turned to the south- ward, and we finally encamped two miles east of the nearest part of the Darling; in latitude 31° 44' 28''. This newly discovered channel seemed to turn from that river, so as to embrace the extremities of the low ranges coming from the east, and wliich successively terminate on the plains of the Darling. One of these was about a mile to the east of our camp, and consisted of hardish sandstone, composed of grains of quartz, withoutany apparent cement, but containing a small quantity CH. VI.] TOMBS ON THE SAND HILLS. 253 of decomposed felspar. At the base of those hills I found, as elsewhere, pebbles consisting chiefly of a splintery quartz rock, in which the grains of sand or quartz were firmly em- bedded in a siliceous cement. On the northern side of that ridge, I observed at some distance an isolated clump of trees resembling pines or cypresses, growing very thick, and the foliao-e was of a brig-hter green than that of the callitris trees which they most resemble ; unlike them, however, they had no dead lower branches, but were thick and green to the ground. I regretted much that I had not an opportu- nity of examining them closely. In the Darling, westward of this camp, was a bed of round concretions — all about an inch in diameter. They were dark coloured, and when first taken out, had a foetid smell. July 1. — Pursuing the left bank of the newly discovered channel, we found that it embraced some low rising grounds, which, ever since we had made Macculloch's range, had been the limits of the polygonum flats, along the left bank also of the Darling. On the tops of some of those hills, I observed what appeared to be the tombs of the natives. They consisted of a circular trench of about 30 feet in diameter, the grave being covered by a low mound in the centre ; and they were always dug in the highest parts of hills. On observing this preference of heights as burying places, I remembered, that it was on the summit of the hill, where I fixed our depot on the Darling, that we saw the numerous white balls and so many graves.* The balls were shaped as in the accompanying wood-cut, and were made of lime. Casts of a head. Bolls. * M. de la Roque says of the Bedouin Arabs of Mount Carmel, " that the frequent change of the place of their encampment, not admitting their having places set apart for burial, they always choose a place somewhat elevated for that purpose, and at some distance from the camp. They make a grave there, 254 AUSTRALIAN SHAMROCK. [CH. VI. Beside them were, in some cases, casts also in lime or gypsum, which had evidently been taken from a head, the hair of which had been confined by a net, as the impression of it, and some hairs, remained inside. A native explained one day to Mr. Larmer, in a very simple manner, the mean- ing of the white balls, by taking a small piece of wood, lay- ing it in the ground, and covering it with earth ; then laying his head on one side and closing his eyes, he showed that a dead body was laid in that position in the earth, where these balls were placed above.* On crossing the channel of the tributary, which we had followed, 1 found its bed broad, ex- tensive, and moist, and in it two small ponds containing the first water, besides that of the Darling, seen by the party, in tracing the course of this river nearly 200 miles. The rich soil in the dry bed was here beautifully verdant with the same fragrant trefoil, which I saw on the 4th of June in crossing a lagoon, the bed of which was of the same de- scription of soil. The perfume of this herb, its freshness and flavour, induced me to try it as a vegetable, and we found it to be delicious, tender as spinach, and to preserve a very green colour when boiled. This was certainly the most in- teresting plant hitherto discovered by us; for independently of its culinary utility, it is quite a new form of Australian vegetation, resembling, in a striking manner, that of the south into which they put the corpse, and cover it with earth, and a number of great stones, lest the wild beasts should get at the body." — Voy. dans la Palestine, ch. 23. See also 2 Kings xxiii. 10. — 1 Kings xiii. 2. and Isaiah xxii. 15—17. • A singular coincidence with the ancient customs of Israel. " The .Tews used to mark their graves with wliite lime that they niight be known, that so priests, Nazarites, and travellers might avoid them, and not l)e polluted. They also marked their graves with white lime, and so also in their intermediate feast-days. They made use of chalk, because it looked white like bones." — Ihirdar's Oriental Customs, vol. ii. page 232. it may be also remarked that a superstitious custom prevailed amongst the Gentiles in mourning for the dead. They cut off their hair, and that round about, and threw it into tlie sepulchre with the Imdics of their relatives and friends ; and sometimes laid it ni)on the face or the breast of the dead, as an offering to the infernal gods, whereby tlioy tlioiight to appease them, and make them kind to the deceased. See Ma'nnanidcs de Idol. c. .\ii. 1. 2. 5. CH. VI.] OLD CANOE — DRY STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 255 of Europe.* I endeavoured to preserve some of its roots, by taking them up in the soil, as the seed (a very small pea) was not ripe. Finding that the minor river-course which had been, at one time, within half a mile of the Darling, was again re- ceding from that river, so that when I wished to encamp, I saw no appearance of it within six miles ; and that no more water could be seen in the dry channel, I crossed over and made for the Darling in a west-south-west direction. Exactly where the carts passed the dry channel, a native's fishing canoe, complete, with the small oar or spear and two little cords, lay in the dry and grassy bed of this quondam river ; where now we were likely to pass the night without finding water.f The intervening plain became very soft and dis- tressing to the draught animals, and we were compelled to encamp on the edge of a scrub which bounded it, and at a distance of about four miles from the Darling. This was a long way to send our cattle, but the observance of our usual custom, seemed preferable upon the whole, even in this extreme case, to passing the night without water. The sun was just setting when oxen and horses were driven towards the west in quest of the Darling, our only and never-failing resource at that time. Magnetic var. 7° 8' 15'' E. July 2. — The men who returned with water for the camp, last evening, had obtained it at a lagoon short of the river, and where a large tribes of natives were seated by their fires. Another party of our men had driven the cattle to the river itself, for on its banks alone could any tolerable grass be found. I was, therefore, apprehensive, that the natives would molest the cattle, when so far from our camp, and I accord- * Trigonella suavissima, (Lindl. MSS.) ; caulibus prostratis, foliolis obcordatis cum dente interjecto subdentatis subtus pilosiusculis, stipulis semisagittatis aristato-dentatis trinerviis, umbellis paucifloris sessilibus, leguminibus falcatis reticulatis glabris. t Large shells of the Unie genus projected from the hard and grassy surface, which had evidently been in the state of mud for a sufficient time to admit of their growth. 256 UNIFORM CHARACTER OF THE DARLING. [cO. VI. ing-ly sent six men armed to watch them. They returned about eleven o'clock this morning, with all the cattle except one bullock ; and as the drivers had been closely followed by the natives from day-break, it was then supposed that the animal liad been speared. One of our wheels requiring- new spokes, I proceeded only four miles this day, towards an angle of the river, in order to encamp in a good position, and recover the missing animal alive or dead. The death of a bullock by the hands of the natives, would have been a most unfortunate cir- cumstance at that time, not so much because this was one of our best working animals, as because the dread with which these animals inspired the natives, was one of our best de- fences. If they once learned to face and kill them, it would be difficult for us, under present circumstances, to prevent the loss of many, and still more serious evils might follow. As soon as we took up our ground, therefore, I sent six men in search of the lost bullock; and before night, they had followed his track to within a mile and a half of our camp near the river. Meanwhile we had found, long before their return, that he had fortunately joined the others early in the mornmg. The river and its vicinity presented much the same appear- ance here that they did 200 miles higher up. Similar lofty banks (in this neighbourhood 60 feet in altitude), with marks of great floods traced in parallel lines on the clayey sides; calcareous concretions — transparent water, with aquatic plants — a slow current, with an equal volume of water — fine gum-trees, and abundance of luxuriant grass. Slight varieties in the feathered tribe were certainly observed ; besides the crested pigeon there was one much smaller, and of handsome but sober plumage; and excellent flavour when dressed. Cockatoos, with scarlet and yellow top-knot, and about six kinds of ))arrots which were new to us ; also, some curious small birds. But of all the birds of the air, the great object of Burnett's search, was one wholly scarlet, of which kind only two had been seen at diti'erent places, far apart. CH. VI.] THE "doctor" AND THE NATIVES. 257 Being wholly new, this bird might have been named the Grenadier, as a companion to the Rifle-bird. The junction of even the dry bed of a tributary was certainly a novelty ; and the effect of this on the course of the river remained to be seen. From the station beyond the Darling, I took the bearing of the farthest visible trees in the line of that river, and on my map it exactly intersected the bend, now the nearest to our camp. Beyond it nothing could be seen from hills or lofty trees, and all I could know then was that the river turned nearly westward, and that a tributary was about to fall into it from the cast. We were near the place, w^here it might reasonably be ascertained, from the direction of its further course, whether the Darling finally joined the Murray. July 3. — The repair of the wheel could not be effected before one o'clock. Meanwhile, the Doctor having been to the river for two buckets of water, was surprised on ascend- ing the bank, by a numerous tribe, armed with spears and bommerengs. One of the natives, however, stept forward un- armed, between his fellows and the Doctor, and with the aid of two others made the tribe fall back. Souter had fortu- nately bethought him of holding out a twig, as soon as he saw them. These three men accompanied him to the camp, and as they seemed well-disposed, and shewed confidence, I gave the foremost a tomahawk. Two of them were deeply marked with small-pox. On mentioning the " Calare," they imme- diately pointed towards the Lachlan, this being the well- known native name of that river ; but their curiosity was too strongly excited by the novelties before them, to admit of much attention being given to my questions. They remained about half an hour, and then departed ; and we soon after proceeded. Having passed through some scrub, we reached a firm bit of plain, on which we encamped ; the day's journey being about six miles. Near our camp, there was a long lagoon in the bed of a water-course, which seemed to be a channel from the back country. We heard the many voices of our black friends, in the woods. 1 s 258 A FRIENDLY TRIBE. • [CH. VI. July 4. — The same tribe came up to om' tents in the morning with tlie men, who had been in charge of the cattle, and who reported, that these natives had assisted in finding them. I was so much pleased with this kindness, and the quiet, orderly behaviour of the tribe, that I pre- sented two of them with clasp-knifes. They approached fearlessly, gins and all, and quite unarmed, to a short dis- tance from our camp ; and they were all curiosity to see our party. The difference between the conduct of these harmless ))eople, and that of those whom w^e had last seen, was very striking. All the men retained both front teeth, an uncom- mon circumstance ; for these were the first natives, whom I had seen in Australia possessing both. Their women were rather good-looking. After travelling six miles, we crossed the dry bed of a water-course, which I supposed was the same as that from which we turned a day or two before, but the line of bearing of this was southward, and we were fol- lowing the river which flowed in the contrary direction. After travelling about eleven miles, we encamped a mile east of two bends of the stream, beside a patch of scrub which afforded us fuel. The banks of the Darling near this camp, were unusually low, being not more than thirty feet high ; the channel also was contracted, and containing many dead trees, had altogether a diminished appearance. July 5. — Penetrating the scrub in a southerly direction, we soon came upon open ground, the surface of which con- sisted of firm clay. The river was close on our right, until, at about six miles forward, it turned off to the westward. We pursued our journey over plains and through scrubs, first south-west, then west, and finally north-west, encamp- ing at last, after a journey of fourteen miles, where the bend of the river Avas still 1 \ miles to the north of us. We had crossed at 12 miles the dry bed of a river, which was five chains wide, and whose course was to the north. In it were several natives' canoes, and on its banks grew large river gum-trees, or eucalypti. The course of this tributary CH. VI.] RANGE DISCOVERED BY REFRACTION. 259 (which probably included that which we had seen previ- ously), and the change in the direction of the main stream, which trended now so much towards the west, made it still possible, that a range separated it from the Murray. There was now less of the extensive plains of bare soft earth, and more of the firm clay, with small rough gum-trees. Few bushes of the genus acacia were now to be seen, but the minor vegetation appeared to be much the same as on the upper parts. As great a paucity of grass also prevailed here, except on the river bank, and as great an abundance of the same atriplex and cucurbitaceous plants as I had noticed elsewhere. July 6, — From a tree at our camp, a range was observed in the south-west, having become visible from refraction, and this rendered it still more probable, that the river would continue its westerly course. I soon found it necessary, however, to travel south-west in order to avoid it, and having yesterday exceeded our usual distance, I halted at the end of 8^ miles ; the river being then distant about two miles to the north. From a bare hill beyond this camp, I could see nothing southward, except a perfectly level horizon of low bushes, the country being nevertheless full of hollows, in which grew trees of large dimensions. The river line was so sunk among these hollows, that I could trace it for only a short distance, and there it bore about west-north- west. The banks of the river, opposite to our camp of yesterday, were of rather different character from those which we had seen above. The slopes towards the stream commenced some hundred yards from it, and they were grassy, and gently inclined on each side, so that our carts might have passed easily. We saw enormous trees by the river side, and the scenery was altogether fine. The stream glided along at the rate of two miles per hour, over a rock of ferruginous sandstone, containing nodules of ironstone. Nine natives approached the party, while on the march this day; and they appeared very well disposed, frank and without s 2 260 DANCE OF NATIVES. fcFT. VT, fear. They carried no Aveapons. While we halted, I per- ceived, through my glass, a party of about seventeen on a small eminence near the river hank, and nine others, whom I supposed to be those who had been with us, joined them ; upon which a large fire was made under some ti'ees. Around this fire, I distinctly saw them dance for nearly half an hour, their bodies being hideously painted white, so as to resemble skeletons. The weather was very cold, and it seemed as if this dance amongst the burning grass was partly for the purpose of warming themselves. I am rather inclined to suppose, however, considering the circum- stances under which the tribe higher up danced, that it was connected with some dark superstition, resorted to perhaps, in the present instance, either to allay fear, or to inspire courage. I saw several gins carrying children in cloaks on their backs, some of whom and several of the children also danced. Our watering party was directed towards another portion of the river, to avoid collision, if possible ; and these natives at last decamped along its bank, in an opposite direction, or downwards. Juhj 7. — As the people were packing up their tents, the fire of the natives appeared again in the wood, about a mile off, and near the edge of the plain. They soon after ad- vanced towards our camp, and came up more frankly than any whom we had yet seen. Gins with children on their backs, and little boys, came also. The party sat down close to our tents, and soon began to solicit by signs, for a toma- hawk. It was evident that they had heard of us, and of our customs in that respect. One man older than the rest, as appeared by his grey beard, was most importunate; and an old woman explained that it was very cold, and asked me for some warm clothing, much in the manner of a beggar. I was very sorry tliat we could not spare her anything save a sack and a ragged shii-t. To tlie old man, I gave a toma- hawk, and to two others a spike-nail each ; 1 presented also a tin jug to one, who took a great fancy to it. They seemed CH. VI.] A LAKE. 261 by their gestures and looks to inquire how we had got safely past all the other tribes ; and they were very attentive to our men when yoking the bullocks, of which animals they did not appear to be much afraid. These natives retained all their front teeth, and had no scarifications on their bodies, two most unfashionable peculiarities amongst the aborigines, and in which these differed frorn most others. They sent the gins and boys away, saying they went to drink at the river. We soon moved off, upon which they followed the others. The old man wore a band, consisting of cord of about four-tenths of an inch in diameter, wound four or five times round his head. On examination, we perceived that it was made of human hair. They had no weapons with them. These natives, as well as most others seen by us on the river, bore strong marks of the small-pox, or some such disease, which appeared to have been very destructive among them. The marks appeared chiefly on the nose, and did not exactly resemble those of the small-pox with us, inasmuch as the deep scars and grooves left the original surface and skin in isolated specks on these people, whereas the effects of small- pox with us appear in little isolated hollows, no parts of the higher surface being detached like islands, as they appeared on the noses of these natives. This was what is termed, accord- ino- to Souter, the " confluent" small-pox. We crossed some soft red sand hills, and at ?! miles passed the bank of a beau- tiful piece of water, on which were various kinds of water- fowl. This lake was brimful, a novel sight to us ; the shining waters being spread into a horse-shoe shape, and reflecting the images of enormous gum-trees on the banks. It extended also into several bays or sinuosities, which gave the scenery a most refreshing aquatic character. The greatest breadth of this lake was about 200 yards. It seemed full of fishes, and it was probably of considerable depth, being free from weeds, and continuing so full and clear throughout summers which had drank up all the minor streams. After crossing some soft ei'ound, the Darling having been in sight on our 262 NATIVE VILLAGE. [CH. VI. right, we encamped ou its banks, near a small hill, over- looking the river, and a little beyond the camp, in the direc- tion of our line of route. On this hill, were three large tombs of the natives, of an oval shape, and about twelve feet in the greater axis. Each stood in the centre of an artificial hol- low, the mound, or tomb in the middle, being about five feet high ; and on each of them were piled numerous withered branches and limbs of trees, no inappropriate emblem of mortality. I could scarcely doubt, that these tombs covered the remains of that portion of the tribe, swept off, by the fell disease, which had left such marks on all who survived. There were no trees on this hill, save one quite dead, which seemed to point, with its hoary arms, like a spectre to the tombs. A melancholy waste, where a level country and bound- less woods, extended beyond the reach of vision, was in perfect harmony with the dreary foreground of the scene. (See plate 16.) At the base of this hill, on the west, the river took a very sharp turn, forming there a triangular basin, much wider and deeper than any of the reaches. Near it, we found a native village, in which the huts were of a very strong and perma- nent construction. One group was in ruins, but the more modern had been recently thatched with dry grass. Each formed a semi-circle, the huts facing inwards, or to the centre, and the open side of the curve being towards the east. On the side of the hill of tombs, there was one unusually capacious hut, capable of containing twelve or fifteen per- sons, and of a very substantial construction, as well as com- modious plan, especially in the situation for the fire, which, without any of the smoke being enclosed, was accessible from every part of the hut. J'lan iij' roiif i)f u iKtIive's /int. CH. VI.] CHANNEL OF A SMALL STREAM. 263 It was evidently some time, since this dwelling had been inhabited ; and I was uncertain, whether such a large solitary hut had not been made during the illness of those, who must have died in great numbers, to give occa- sion for the large tombs on the hill. In this hut were many small bundles of wild flax, evi- dently in a state of preparation, for making cord or line nets and other purposes. Each bundle consisted of a handful of stems twisted and doubled once, but their decayed state shewed that the place had been long deserted. A great quantity of the flax, in that state, lay about the floor, and on the roof of the hut. The view from the hill of tombs was dreary enough, as already observed. Southward a country as level, and then much bluer than the ocean, extended to the horizon. North-westward, some parts of the range be- yond the river, appeared between the large gum-trees. On all other sides the horizon was unbroken. July 8.— The cattle were not brought up so soon as usual this morning ; and six or seven of the natives whom we saw yesterday, came to us, with a stranger, a very strong tall and good-looking native. They were also accompanied by a female, who had lost a relative, as appeared by her whitened hair, and who carried on her back a very large net. I soon bade them adieu, and moved forward, crossing some sandy plains, which reminded me of descriptions of deserts in Asia or Africa : and then a small range of red sand, on which grew three or four cypress trees, of a species we had not previously seen. We descended to a very extensive and level plain ; the surface of which being clay, was firm and good for travelling upon. We afterwards en- tered a small wood of rough gum (eucalyptus), in which, while proceeding westward, and looking in vain for the Dar- ling, we came upon a fine lagoon of water, resembling a river. It had flood marks on its tanks, with white gum- trees, and extended to the north-west and north-east, as far as we could see, for the woods. There we encamped for the 264 CARTS BESET BY THIEVISH NATIVES. [CH. VI. night. On our way, I had observed, from the hill, a column of smoke rising far in the south-east, as from a similar ridge to that on which I stood. The country to the west and south- west declined so much as to he invisible, beyond a horizon not more than three or four miles distant. July 9. — On further examination of the lagoon, it appeared to be a creek extending to the north-east, but at three miles from where we crossed it, in travelling on 256° (from N.), it had a very diminished appearance. We continued over a firm clay surface, on the same bearing, until we came on the Darling. The same natives, whom we had seen, but accompanied by another tribe, as it seemed, overtook the carts on the road, and now accompanied us. They were so covetous, that the progress of the carts was impeded for some time, by the care necessary on the part of the drivers, to prevent these people from stealing. Every thing, no matter what, they were equally disposed to carry oflP. Although W'atched sharply they contrived to filch out articles, and hand them from one to another. Even the little sticks in the horns, which carried grease for the wheels, did not escape their hands ; and the iron pins of the men, who were mea- suring with the chain, were repeatedly seized in their toes and nearly carried off. When we reached the stream, they set fire to an old hut, which stood where they saw our carts were likely to pass ; this being intended, no doubt, as a signal to others still be- fore us on the river. Seeing that they were bent on mischief, I proceeded three miles further, and selected the position for the camp with more care than usual. It was not good, but the best I could find ; a slightly rising ground nearly free from trees, surrounded by low soft polygonum fiats, and only half a mile from the river. It was evident, that the drauij-ht cattle could not continue this work, until after they had had some repose. This day's journey did not much exceed eight miles, and yet some of the best of the bullocks had lain down on the road. On the CH. VI.] THE FISHING TRIBE. 265 other hand, the natives were likely to become formidable ' for the tribes increased in numbers while we were taking up our ground. They advanced towards us without ceremony, led on by the old man and the tall athletic savage, we had seen before, and who had both been noticed as the most per- severing thieves of all. These two men had hung about our party several days, and their intention of assembling the tribes around us, for the worst of purposes, was no longer to be doubted. I felt no occasion to be ceremonious with them, for I had frequently given them to understand, that we did not wish their company. I immediately took several men forward with muskets to keep the tribes off while our party Avere encamping, but to no purpose. The natives carried a quantity of large fishes, and introduced me particularly to a very good humoured looking black, who seemed to be chief of the new tribe, and who took some pains to explain to me, that the spears they carried were only for killing fishes or kangaroos, (boondari.) This chief appeared to have great authority, although not old. He wore tightly round his left arm, between the shoulder and the elbow, a bracelet of corded hair. This distinction, if such it was, I also noticed in one of the old men.* The afternoon was a most harassing time, from the repeated attempts to pilfer the carts and tents. The old man, whose cunning and dexterity in this way, were wonderful, had nearly carried off the leathern socket for the tent-poles ; another extracted the iron bow of a bullock- yoke. The most striking instance, however, of their pro- pensity for clutching, occurred, when Burnett, by my order, shot a crow, in hopes that its sudden death might scare them; but instead of any terror being exhibited at the report or effect of the gun, the bird had not reached the ground, when the chief was at the top of his speed to seize it ! * Of the bracelet, as worn among the orientals, Harmer says, " This I take to have been an ensign of royalty ; and in that view, I suppose, we are to iiii- derstand the account that is given us, of the Amalekite's bringing the bracelet that he found on Saul's arm, along with his crown, to David, 2 Sam. i. 10.'' — Vol. II. page 438. 266 THE NATIVES VERY TROUBLESOME. [CII. VI. The strong tall man was by far the most covetous, it was almost impossible to keep him from our carts ; even after all the others had been rather roughly pushed oft', and had sat down. About sunset the tribe retired, but with de- monstrations of their intention to visit us in the morning. Meanwhile, I was thinking to explore the further course of the river, with a few men and pack animals only, leaving the bullocks and other men to refresh here, for our long homeward journey. Rest, indeed, was most essential to enable them to do this ; and as the natives were now gather- ing around us, circumstances were not likely to mend in either respect, by our travelling at a slow rate. The neces- sity for separation, however, was obvious, if the survey was to be continued farther ; but I determined to halt for two days, preparatory to our setting out, during which time I hoped by patient vigilance and firmness, to disappoint the cupidity, and yet gratify the curiosity, of the natives, so as to induce them to draw off", and leave us. Juli/ 10. — Early this morning, the blacks came up in in- creased numbers, and we were forced to shove the tall fellow, by the shoulders, from our stores. The old man, however, managed to cut (with a knife which he had received from us as a present) one of the tent ropes ; and because it was taken from him, when he was making off" with it, he threw a fire-stick at the tent. One strange native arrived, after many cooys, from a distance ; whereupon the chief of the fishing-tribe (whom we styled king Peter), led him to us, and introduced him to my particular attention. The tribe also took great interest in this introduction, and I, on our part, met the stranger as favourably as I could, by sitting down opposite to him in the midst of the tribe, to which king Peter had led me. While I sat thus, under a dense group of bawling savages, I perceived that the most loquacious and apparently influential of all, was the female who came up to us on the morning of the 8th, carrying a net. She was now all anima- tion, and her finely shaped mouth, beautiful teeth, and well- CH. VI, J KING PETER. 267 formed person, appeared to great advantage, as she hung over us both, addressing me vehemently about something relative to the stranger. He, all the while, sat mute before me, while I continued not only silent, but quite ignorant of the purport of what was said. My handkerchief was at length taken out, and many hands being at length laid upon me, I retired as ceremoniously as circumstances permitted, but not until I had been so manipulated by fishy paws, that the peculiar odour of the savage adhered to my clothes long after. I next allowed Peter to approach my tent, upon looking into which, he set up a loud but feigned laugh, instead of evincing any surprise on seeing many objects to him so very strange. He afterwards came up with the old man and the stranger, proposing that the three should go in and examine it ; but I positively refused to let them enter the tent toge- ther, for " a bull in a china-shop" were no hyperbole, compared to pilfering savages, in a tent among barometers, sextants and books. At length I found, to my regret, king Peter's hand in my pocket, pulling at my handkerchief several times, although I had given him a tomahawk and breastplate. They began to see (as I hoped), that they could not easily get more from us. I perceived a messenger despatched across the river, and asked this chief by gestures and looks, the object of the mission, when he made signs, that others would come to dance. It was clear, the man was sent for another tribe, as " The messenger of blood and brand." Still their numbers did not exceed sixty, though gathered along the river bank for many miles back ; and my men, with twelve muskets, were strong enough, when kept to- e-ether ; but this could not be, and it was a time of consider- able anxiety with us all. About noon, the whole tribe took to the river, with the exception of the two old men, the tall 268 SINGULAR CEREMONIES. [CH. VI. man, and their two gins. These persons had followed us far, gathering the tribes and leading them forward to pilfer ; but the ceremony they went through, when the others were gone, was most incomprehensible, and seemed to express no good intentions. The two old men moving slowly, in opposite directions, made an extensive circuit of our camp; the one waving a green branch over his head, and occasionally shaking it violently at us, and throwing dust towards us, now and then sitting down and rubbing himself over with dust. The other took the band from his head, and waved it in gestures equally furious, occasionally throwing dust also. When they met, after each had paced half round our position, they turned their backs on each other, waving their branches as they faced about, then shaking them at us, and afterwards again rubbing themselves with dust. On complet- ing their circumambulation, they coolly resumed their seats, at a fire some little way from our camp. An hour or two after this ceremony, I observed them seated at a fire made close to our tents, and on going out of mine, they called to me, upon which I went and sat down with them as usual, rather curious to know the meaning of the extraordinary ceremony we had witnessed. I could not, however, discover any change in their demeanour ; they merely examined my boots and clothes, as if they thought them already their own. Meanwhile king Peter and his tribe were much more sensibly occupied in the river, catching fishes. These tribes inhabiting the banks of the Darling may be considered Ichthyophagi, in the strictest sense, and their mode of fishing was really an interesting sight. There was an un- usually deep and broad reach of the river opposite to our camp, and it a))i)eared tliat they fished daily in different portions of it, in the following manner. The king stood erect in his bark canoe, wliile nine young men, with short spears, went up the river, and as many down, until, at a signal from him, all dived info it, and returned towards him, CH.vi.] natives' mode of fishing. 269 alternately swimming and diving ; transfixing the fish under water, and throwing them on the hank. Others on the river brink speared the fish when thus enclosed, as they appeared among the weeds, in which small openings were purposely made that they might see them. In this manner, they killed with astonishing despatch, some enormous cod-perch ; but the largest were struck by the chief from his canoe, with a long barbed spear. After a short time, the young men in the water were relieved by an equal number ; and those which came out, shivering, the weather being very cold, warmed themselves in the centre of a circular fire, kept up by the gins on the bank. The death of the fish, in their practised hands, w^as almost instantaneous, and seemed caused by merely holding them by the tail, with the gills immersed. The old men at our camp sat watching us until sunset, when they went off quietly towards the river ; the afternoon also passed without a second visit from the fishing tribe. July 1 1 . — Soon after sunrise this morning, some natives, 1 think twelve or thirteen in number, were seen approaching our tents at a kind of run, carrying spears and green boughs. As soon as they arrived within a short distance, three came for- ward, stuck their spears in the ground, and seemed to beckon me to approach ; but as I was advancing towards them, they violently shook their boughs at me, and having set them on fire, dashed them to the ground, calling out " Nangry," (sit down.) I accordingly obeyed the mandate ; but seeing that they stood, and continued their unfriendly gestures, I arose and called to my party, on which the natives immedi- ately turned, and ran away.* * Harmer says " It was usual with the Greeks, (Alex, ab Alex. Genial. Dier. 1 . V. c. 3.) when armies were about to engage, that before the first ensigns stood a prophet or priest, bearing branches of laurels and garlands, who was called Pyrophorus, or the torch-bearer, because he held a lamp or torch ; and it was accounted a most criminal thing to do him any hurt, because he performed the office of an ambassador. This sort of men were priests of Mars, and sacred to 270 TRIBES FROM THE SOUTH-EAST AND SOUTH-WEST, [CH. VI. I took forward some men, huzzaing after tliem for a short distance, and we fired one shot over their heads, as they ran stumbling to the other side of an intervening clear flat, towards the tribe, who were assembling, as lookers-on. There they made a fire, and seeming disposed to stop, I ordered four men with muskets to advance and make them quit that spot ; but the men had scarcely left the camp when the natives withdrew, and joined the tribe beyond, amid much laughter and noise. These were some natives who had, the day before, arrived from the south-east, having joined the fishing tribe, while they were at our present camp. These men of the south-east, had a remarkable peculiarity of countenance, occasioned by high cheek-bones, and com- pressed noses. We imagined we had met their bravado very successfully, for soon after they had been chased from our camp, part of them crossed the country to the eastward, as if returning whence they came. They passed us at no great distance, but did not venture to make further demonstrations with burning boughs. At one o'clock, the tribe, for which the messenger had been sent, as 1 concluded, the day before, appeared on a small clear hill to the south-west of our camp, coming apparently from the very quarter where I wished to go. They soon came up to our tents without ceremony, led on by the same old thief, who had followed us down the river, and who seemed to have been the instigator of all this mischief. As he had been already detected by us, and was aware, that he was a marked man, it appeared that he had coloured his head and beard black, by way of disguise. This was a very remarkable personage, his features decidedly Jewish, having a thin aquiline nose, and a very piercing eye, as intent on mis- chief, as if it had belonged to Satan himself. I received the strangers, who appeared to be a stupid harmless-looking set, liim, so tliat those who were conquerors always spared them. Hence, when a total destruction of an army, ])iace, or people, was hyperliolically expressed, it used to be said, ' not so much as a torch-bearer, or fire-carrier escaped.' " — Herod. Uranla,fA\e\. viii.c. (>. CH. VI,] , RESOLVE TO RETURN. 271 as civilly as I could, giving to one, who appeared to be their chief, a nail. I soon afterwards entered my tent, and they went northward towards the river, motioning that they were going for food, but that they would return and sleep near us. I became now apprehensive, that the party could not be safely separated under such circumstances, and when I as- certained, as I did just then, that a small stream joined the Darling from the west, and that a range was visible in the same direction beyond it, I discontinued the preparations I had been making for exploring the river further with pack animals, and determined to return. The identity of this river with that which had been seen to enter the Murray, now admitted of little doubt, and the continuation of the survey to that point, was scarcely an object worth the peril likely to attend it. I had traced its course upwards of 300 miles, through a country which did not supply a single stream, all the torrents which might descend from the sharp and naked hills, being absorbed by the thirsty earth. Over the whole of this extensive region, there grew but little grass, and few trees available for any useful purpose, except varieties of acacia, a tree so peculiar to these desert inteinor regions, and which there seemed to be nourished only by the dews of night. Scarce an hour had elapsed, after I had communicated my determination to the party, when a shot was heard on the river. This was soon followed by several others, which were more plainly audible, because the wind was fortunately from the north-west ; and as five of the bullock-drivers and two men, sent for water, were at that time there, and also the tribe of kins; Peter, it was evident that a collision had taken place between them. The arrival of the other tribe, who still lingered on our right front, made this appear like a preconcerted attack ; and two of the tribe again came for- ward, just as the shots were echoing along the river, to ask for fire and something to eat. Their apparent indifference 272 AFFRAY WITH THE NATIVES. [CH. VI. to the sound of musquetry was curious, and as they had not yet communicated with those to whom they were visitors, I believed they were really ignorant then of what was going on. The river extended along our front from west to north-east, at an average distance of three-quarters of a mile ; and this tribe was now about that distance to the eastward of the scene of action: soft and hollow ground, thickly set with polygonum, intervened. I had previously sent a man to amuse and turn back their messenger, Avhen I saw him going towards the fishing tribe ; and now this strange tribe having arrived, as I concluded, hungry and expecting the fish, seemed dis- appointed, and came to ask food from us. I was most anxious to know, what was going on at the river, where all our horses and cattle were seen running about, but the de- fence of our camp required all my attention. As soon as the firing was heard, several men rushed forward as volun- teers to support the party on the river, and take them more ammunition. Those, whose services I accepted, were Wil- liam Woods, Charles King, and John Johnston (the black- smith), who all ran through the polygonum bushes with a speed, that seemed to astonish, even the two natives, still sitting before our camp. In the mean time we made every possible preparation for defence. Robert Whiting, who was very ill and weak, crawled to a wheel ; and he said that though unable to stand, he had yet strength enough to load and fire. The shots at the river seemed renewed almost as soon as the reinforcement left us, but we were obliged to remain in ignorance of the nature and result of the attack, for at least an hour, after the firing had ceased. At length a man was seen emerging from the scrub near the river bank, whose slow progress almost exhausted our patience, until, as he drew near, we saw that he was wounded and bheding. This was Joseph Jones, who had been sent for water, and who, altliough much hurt, brought a pot and a tea-kettle full, driving the sheep before him, according CH. VI.] ORIGIN OF THE DISPUTE. 273 to custom. It, now turned out, that the tea-kettle which Jones carried, had been the sole cause of the quarrel. Ashe was ascending the river bank with the water, Thomas Jones (the sailor) being- stationed on the bank, covering the other with his pistol, as was usual and necessary on this journey ; king Peter, who had come along the bank with several other natives, met him when halfway up, and smilingly took hold of the pot, as if meaning to assist him in carrying it up ; but on reaching the top of the bank, he, in the same jocose way, held it fast, until a gin said something to him, upon which he relinquished the pot and seized the kettle with his left hand, and at the same time grasping his waddy or club in his right, he immediately struck Joseph Jones senseless to the ground, by a violent blow on the forehead. On seeing this, the saiior Jones fired, and wounded, in the thigh or groin, king Peter, who thereupon dropped his club, reeled over the bank, swam across the river, and scrambled up the opposite side. This delay gave Jones time to reload for defence against the tribe, who were now advancing towards him. One man who stood covered by a tree, quivered his spear ready to throw, and Jones on firing at him, missed him. His next shot was discharged amongst the mob, and most unfortunately wounded the gin already mentioned ; who, with a child fastened to her back, slid down the bank, and lay, apparently dying, with her legs in the water. Just at this time the supports arrived, which the fellow behind the tree observing, passed from it to the river, and was swimming across, when Charles King shot him in the breast, and he immediately went down. These people swim differently from Europeans ; generally back foremost, and nearly upright, as if treading the water. On the arrival of our three men from the camp, the rest of the tribe took to the river, and were fired at in crossing, but without much or any effect. The party next proceeded along the river bank towards the bullock-drivers, who were then at work stript and defenceless, endeavouring to raise a bullock bogged in the muddy bank. The tribe, on the 1 T 274 NARROW ESCAPE OF MUIRHEAD. [CH. VI. other side, appeared to know this, as they were seen hast- ening also in that direction, so that the timely aid, afforded by the three men from the camp, probably saved the lives of several of the party. When the men returned up the river, they perceived, that the body of the gin had been taken across and dragged up the opposite bank. The whole party had then to proceed to the higher part of the river in order to collect the cattle, and thus they approached the place, where the newly-arrived tribe were crossing to join the others. Near this spot, the men next endeavoured to raise a bullock, which had got fixed in the bank, and while Robert Muirhead accidentally stooped to lift the animal, two spears were thrown at him from an adjoining scrub with such force, that one was broken in two, and the other entered three inches deep in a tree beside him. He escaped both, only by accidentally stooping at the moment. Such were the parti- culars, collected from the men after their return, from this affray. The spears appeared to have been thrown by some mem- bers of the fishing tribe, who had been seen with those newly arrived natives from my camp, and who had probably by this time, heard of what had taken place lower down the river. Tlius the covetous disposition of these people drew us at length (notwithstanding all my gifts and endeavours to be on friendly terms), into a state of warfare. We met frequently with instances of natives, receiving from us all they could want on one day, yet approaching us on the next, with the most unequivocal demonstrations of enmity and hostility. Indeed, it seemed impossible, in any manner, to conciliate these people, when united in a body. We wanted nothing, asked for nothing ; on the contrary, we gave them presents of articles the most desirable to them ; andyet they beset us as keenly and with as little remorse as wild beasts seek their prey. It was a consolation, however* under such unpleasant circumstances, to have men on whose courage, at least, I could depend, for numbers might now be CH VI.] MELANCHOLY REFLECTIONS. 275 expected to come against us ; and it was necessary that we should be prepared to meet them in whatever force they ap- peared. On the return of the men in the evening, they re- ported, that, notwithstanding all their exertions, the bullock could not be got up from the mud. Seven men were accordingly sent to the spot that after- noon, and as they did not succeed, it became necessary to send a party to the river in the morning. This was also proper, I considered, in order to cover our retreat, for by first scouring the river bank, no natives could remain along it to discover, that our journey was not, as they would naturally suppose, continued downwards. A death-like silence now prevailed along the banks of the river, no far-heard voices of natives at their fires broke, as before, the stillness of the night — while a painful sympathy for the child bereft of its parent, and anticipations of the pro- bable consequences to us, cast a melancholy gloom over the scene. The waning moon at length arose, and I was anx- iously occupied with the observations, which were most im- portant at this point of my journey, when a mournful song, strongly expressive of the wailing of women, came from be- yond the Darling, on the fitful breeze which still blew from the north-west. It was then that I regretted most bitterly the inconsiderate conduct of some of the men. I was, indeed, liable to pay dear for geographical discovery, when my honour and character were delivered over to convicts, on whom, al- though I might confide as to courage, I could not always rely for humanity. The necessity for detaching the men in charge of the cattle, had, however, satisfied me that we could not proceed without repeated conflicts, and it remained now to be ascertained, whether greater security would be the result of this first exhibition of our power. T 2 CHAPTER VII. Commencement of the homeward journey — Tlie cattle begin to fail — Halt and endeavour to lighten the carts — Rain comes on — Native conversations at a distance — Party separated to watch the cattle — Illness of some of the men from scurvy — Mr. Larmer's excursion into the country to the eastward — The Spitting tribe again — Return of Mr. Larmer, who had found water and inhabitants — A day's halt — Ride to Greenough's group— View from the summit — Barter with natives beyond the Darling — The Red tribe again — New species of caper eaten by the natives — Importunity of the Red tribe — Cross the Darling — View from the summit of Mount Macpherson — Rain again threatens — Absence of kangaroos and emus on the Darling — The Occa tribe again — Hints to Australian sportsmen— Meet the Fort Bourke tribe ^ Mr. Hume's tree — Return to Fort Bourke — Description of that position — Saltnessof the Darling — The plains — The river supported by springs — Traces of floods — Extent of the^basin of this river — Its breadth — Surface of the plains — Geology of the Darling — Woods — Gum acacia abundant— Grasses — Gene- ral character of the natives — Their means of existence — Nets used by them — Superstitions — Condition of the females — Singular habits of a rat — Security of a species of ants— Birds — Fishes — Apprehended scarcity of water on leaving the Darling — Six of the cattle dead from exhaustion — Rest of two days at Fort Bourke — Visited by the Fort Bourke tribe. July 12. — Early this morning, ten men returned to the river, witli orders to raise the bullock to the bank, but after they had done so, it again lay down, unable to move, the legs having become, probably, cramped or benumbed from re- maining so long fast in the mud. They then descended the riv^er about two miles, to where the other bullock lay, which they were equally unable to move. No natives appeared, or were even heard ; and thus we might be considered to occupy the left bank of the river, all along our front. We broke up the canip at ten a.m. and turned our faces home- wards. Our old track was a tolerably well beaten road, and, therefoie, nmch easier for the bullocks, especially those of the leading cart ; it was also no longer necessary to face CH. VII.] THE CARTS LIGHTENED. 277 bush or scrub. To me the relief in travelling homewards was considerable, as I was much more at liberty to attend, to arrangements necessary for our defence, than w^hen the direction of our route required my attention. This day we cut off a corner, by which we shortened our way about a mile ; and we reached our second encampment back, from that which we left in the morning, thus effecting two days' journey in one. We only got to our ground, however, by eight o'clock at night; and before we arrived, one bullock, which had been some time weakly, lay down to rise no more, and we were compelled to shoot it. The camp we reached was near the large native village on the river, and the hill with the natives' tombs, (see July 8), and the same spot, w'here the gin and the tall man first came up to us. We approached the place with some caution, but found nobody in occupation, and we encamped with a strong guard on our cattle. JuIt/ 13. — As there was good food here, and our animals M^ere much exhausted by the last journey, I considered it highly advisable to halt this day. We examined the loads, and, in order to lighten the carts as much as possible, we burned some heavy articles no longer required. The morn- ing was damp and cloudy, and at nine it began to rain heavily. We had still to traverse about 400 miles of level country, subject to floods, and peopled by cunning savages, with whom we were now likely to be involved in war. About 1 1 o'clock, a long, loud cooy from the hill of tombs, announ- ced that the natives had already overtaken us ; but we were under arms immediately, and prepared for defence. Natives were soon after seen to j^ass along the river bank, but as none of them approached us, I sent four armed men towards the huts or village, with orders to ascertain what number was there, and in case they met a single native, to bring him to me. I was desirous to prevent any messenger, whom the tribe might have sent back to the country, through which we had to pass, from arriving before we could dispel by our 278 THREE FEMALES FOLLOW THE PARTY. [CH. VII. peaceful demeanour, any fears that might be raised to pro- voke hostihiy on the part of the inhabitants there. Tliemen found two natives hiding behind trees, who ran off when observed, and swam the river. About two o'clock one of the guard with the cattle, came in and reported that twelve or fourteen natives wei'e watching on the other side of the Darling, and asked what he was to do. I instructed him and the other men to motion to all such to go away, but not to fire at any, unless it became necessary to do so in their own defence. The afternoon cleared up a little, but after dark the sky was overcast. The night passed quietly, without further alarm of natives. The vicinity of the river was an advantage to us here, which the ground, for several stages on, would not afford; for in case of need it enabled all our men to be at hand. July 14. — The morning was fair, but the sky continued to be cloudy, when we commenced our journey. After we had proceeded some miles, the cooys of the natives were heard around us, and we once more expected an attack. We were then in a close scrub, and the cattle were advancing slowly, for the ground had been softened by the rain. We halted the carts in a small open space, and prepared for defence. The men forming our rear guard, having concealed them- selves behind bushes, intercepted three gins and a boy, who appeared to be following our movements. When discovered, tbey called out loudly " Wainba! Wainba!"; and we con- cluded from this, that the male savages were not far off, and that ihcy employed these women on out-post duty. Our men beckoned to them to go back, and no other natives ap])earing, we resumed our mai'ch. The gins, however, were not to be driven from their object so easily ; and indeed from the l)arking of our dogs towards the scrub during the night, and by the tracks observed in the sand across our route next morning, it a])pf'ared, tbat these poor creatures liad passed the night, a cohl one too, in the scrub near our camp without fir(! or water, and thiit they had preceded us in the morninf^ en. VII.] NATIVE CONVERSATIONS. 279 In the calm evening of that day, and as the sun was setting, I distinctly heard the women, at a distance of nearly two miles, relating something respecting us to a party of their tribe beyond the Darling. It may be difficult for those un- used to the habits of Australian natives, to understand how this could be ; but it must be remembered, that these people having no fixed domicile, the gins generally form a separate party, but may thus often cairy on a conversation, from a great distance, with their male companions — consequently when a mile apart only, these people may be said to be in company with each other. As the gins are always ordered by their lords and masters to meet them, at such places of rendezvous, as they may think proper, we may account for the well known accuracy of tliese natives in the names, which belong to every locality in their woods. Nearly the whole day's journey led through a bushy scrub, and over ground rather soft and heavy. We reached, how- ever, our former place of encampment, which we again oc- cupied ; and we sent our cattle to the river for the night, with a party of four armed men. The evening was extremely cold and raw, the wind blowing from south-west, with drizzling rain. Between us and the river the country was open, but the above-mentioned scrub and low hills were close behind us ; and through this scrub, (as appeared by the foot- marks seen this morning), the gins had passed our camp, and preceded us along our line of route, making towards the river as soon as our track approached an open plain, probably because they could not have continued on the track of the party there, without having been seen by us. July 15. — The men returned from the river in good time with the cattle, having neither seen nor heard the natives. The morning was beautiful, and we proceeded, hoping that the fine weather might last. We passed the place where we had halted on the 5th, and continued the journey for a mile or two further in a new direction, by which we cut off a con- siderable detour, and gained in direct distance, about five 280 WEAK STATE OF THE CATTLE. [CH. VII. miles. We encamped near a bare hill, beyond which the river was about a mile distant. There was scrub all round us, and I did not like our position ; but it was impossible to drive the wearied cattle further. As we approached this camp, I heard the voice of one of the gins answered by that of a male, and " wite ma" was the subject of conversation ; they might have been two miles from us, as the voices of the natives, in the woods, are audible, as just stated, a long way off, in a still evening. Juli/ 16. — After a cold frosty night, the morning was fine, and we continued our journey. At about a mile and a half, we entered on our former track, and after five miles more we encamped on the ground, which we had occupied on the 4th instant. By this short journey, I hoped to refresh the cattle a little, and to make out a better one next day, by getting through the brush, and past the natives' bivouac. This camp of ours was a good mile from the river, and it was very necessary to send a separate party to remain on its bank all night with the cattle. July 17. — In these times, when I saw the animals brought up by the men all safe, from the river in the morning, I was wont to thank God in my heart, for their preservation. This morning, I set out on a direct line for our former camp, not so much for the sake of cutting off two miles, which we did, as to avoid the very soft and heavy ground, through which we had travelled with difficulty in the journey down. In this last and more direct line, we found excellent firm plains for nearly the whole of the way ; and we fell in with our old route, where I wished, exactly at our former camp. Thus we had got over a day's stage by half-past one o'clock. The cattle were tired, but as we should be here, in the midst of scrub and brush, and close to a large camp of natives, we continued oui* route about five miles fui'ther, to the spot where we had before repaired the wheels, and we reached it at five o'clock. One poor bullock laid down by the way, and we were obliged to leave it. Wc heard no natives on the river. CII. VII.] ILLNESS OF SOME OF THE MEN. 281 although it was here, that we first fell in with the tribe which followed us down ; and from the absence of all natives now, it seemed, that they had heard of the affair on the river, and kept out of our way perhaps from fear of us ; at all events, their absence was a great comfort, and we hoped it might continue. July 18. — Two men went back early this morning, and brought on old " Pistol," the bullock which had lain down the day before. We started at ten o'clock, passing our encampment of the 1st July, and halting on the bank of the river bed, where, on coming down, we had found some water. It was now, however, dried up, but we had taken the pre- caution to bring on enough for the party, and there was good food for the cattle, and great appearance of rain falling. We had no occasion therefore to send to the river, which was a long way off. " Pistol'' again fell behind this afternoon, and it was really distressing to see the animals in so weak a state, with such a long journey still before them. Some men now shewed symptoms of scurvy, and Robert Whiting being unable to walk, had to be carried on the carts. The clover- leaved plant growing here,* was therefore cooked for the men as a veo-etable ; and such medicines were administered as were likely to check the complaint : near this lagoon we also found the Plantago varia of Mr. Brown. The weather appeared unsettled ; the sky again lowering, and at sunset it was overcast with portentous rainy looking clouds. The air had become mild, when the wind, which had blown some days from the south and south-west, suddenly came round to the north, and a few drops of rain fell in the evening. July 19. — The wind blew strongly all night from the north- west, and in the morning huge clouds darkened the sky, but there was no immediate prospect of rain. The air was warm and parching, and we proceeded with our thirsty cattle to the next stage of our journey, (the camp of the 30th June,) distant about five miles. This we reached by half- * Trigouella suavissima (Liudl. MSS.) ; see page 255. 282 MR. LARMER SENT TO THE EASTWARD. [CH. VII. past eleven, and I sent the cattle with four armed men to tlie river, which was about a mile from our position. In the course of the afternoon the wind from north-west increased to a gale, but the air was still warm, and the sun set in a clear sky, while the heavy clouds sank to the eastern horizon, where sheet lightnings played incessantly until after mid- night. The air brought by that wind from the north-west was so dry, as to occasion a most unpleasant heat and parched sensation in the skin of the face and hands, and several men complained of headache. That air seemed to contain no moisture, and in all probability blew over extensive deserts. July 20.- — The morning was clear, with a cold and gentle breeze from north-west. We this day reached the spot which we had occupied on the 29th June, and again en- camped there, with the intention of halting two days, in order to refresh the cattle. During the afternoon the sky became again overcast, and the wind shifting to the south- west, blew strongly with drizzling rain. July 21. — Very tempestuous weather, unlike any we had hitherto met with in the interior. I sent Mr. Lariner with four men to examine the dry creek, which we had now left higher up towards the hills on the east, that he might as- certain if any ponds remained there, as it lay in our best line of route homewards. That creek afforded the only prospect during this dry season, of a line of route by which we might avoid the great detour in following the Bogan river, which route would otherwise be unavoidable, merely from the general scarcity of water. Two of the men were now invalids, one with scurvy, the other with dysentery. July 22. — The wind blew very keenly all night, and in the morning the sky was cloudy, but no rain fell ; towards noon the sun appeared, and the air became milder. About two p. M. I was informed that the " Spitting tribe" was on the river bank, and in communication with our men in charge of the cattle ; also, that tliree had come over and sat down, asking, as usual, for tomahawks. These were, the old CH. vir.] THE "spitting tribe" again. 283 man already mentioned, (as wanting. part of his nose,) and two strong men. Our party beckoned to them to keep back, but they came over in three canoes. They had been fishing on the river, and had been roasting and eating the fish on the opposite bank. Overseer Burnett offered them his clasp-knife in exchange for a ^' cod" weighing about 19 lbs.* but they would only give a small fish weighing not above one pound , and then coolly went over, and sat down to eat the fish them- selves. Our camp was established about a quarter of a mile from the river, on the edge of a plain, and near a scrub, for the sake of fuel. At four p. m. the alarm Avas given, that the natives were close to the camp, and we no sooner saw them, than the whole of the scrub proved to be on fire, to the imminent danger of our equipment. I sent five men with muskets to them (aw pas de charge) ; and in five minutes, they had retired across the river, two shots having been fired over their heads, as they ascended the opposite bank. It appeared, that this party consisted of eight men, each carrying a spear and a waddy, besides the same boy, who had been seen higher up, and who was observed on this occasion very busy lighting branches in the scrub ; the vile old fellow " sans nose" was one, and also the sullen man, who was the first we had ever seen throw dust. These latter stood on our side, covering the passage of the others, and crossing- last, which manly conduct was the best trait I had seen in their character. On reaching the top of the opposite bank^ they commenced their usual chaunt and demoniac dance, waving burning branches over their heads, brandishing their spears, and throwing their waddies high in the air, even above the lofty trees, all the time retreating in leaping and singing order. It was evident, that our dogs had frightened them ; and at the report of the guns, the tall fellow fell flat on the earth, as he was ascending the opposite bank. Later in the evening, some natives were seen driving the bullocks about on the opposite side, but as they desisted when called * Gristes Pcelii. '284 RETURN OF MR. LARMER. [CH. VII. to, and afterwards cooyed to the others, hefore they joined them, it was supposed, that these had just arrived from a distance. Mr. Larmer returned at dusk, having seen two more fine ponds of water, in the direction of the river bed, which we had lately left. He reported, however, that the water-course ran eastward, or contrary to that of the Darling, a direction also opposed to the fall of the hills, where it no doubt origi- nated. The party met a tribe of blacks, in huts, at the largest and most eastern of these ponds. They were perfectly inoffen- sive, only looking from their huts and asking, as it seenied, which way the party was going. Mr. Larmer reported, that he saw from the range, which he ascended, a higher one about 40 miles to the southward, and smoke in the interme- diate valley, the country being covered with a thick scrub. July 23. — We proceeded at first bh miles along our former route, than eight miles in a north-east direction, by which course we avoided the former camp of the " Spitting tribe," and a portion of our route which led over a very soft, cracked plain : we also shortened the distance so much as to gain one day upon three of our former stages. In making this new cut, we had the good fortune to meet with firm open ground, so that we encamped by thi'ee p.m., within sight of the river and our former route, and five miles beyond the camp of June 27, where the Spitting tribe had probably remained, expecting us. July 24. — Early in the morning, we observed a smoke in the woods near the river, at a distance of about two miles. At length, I saw through my glass a native with a skin cloak advancing over the naked plains towards us, but he soon disappeared, then I perceived two others coming rapidly forward ; at length I heard them calling, and observed that one held high up, a green brancii in his right hand. The intervening country was an extensive, open, dusty plain, and our camp was partially concealed by trees. The savages came to a stand for a moment, at a low bush, a cjuarter of a CH. VII.] A day's halt. 285 mile off, but on my turning for a short time and again looking, I perceived them already far away, scampering at amazing speed back towards the river. It seemed, as if they had become alarmed at our silence, or on discovering our num- bers, and the extent of our camp. Of course we expected a visit from their tribe, either during the day's journey or in the evening. By proceeding in a direction 72° 45' E. of N., we travelled along a fine plain, and hit exactly a sharp angle in our fomier route (June 24). Thus a distance of a mile and a half was gained upon that line, and some very soft and heavy ground avoided. This day's route was, con- sequently, almost a straight line, and we halted opposite to a bend of the river, 2^ miles short of the camp of June 2-3. As we approached this part of the river, a dense column of smoke, such as the natives send up as signals, arose from it. We saw no more of the natives, however, that night, al- though the men with the cattle noticed their fires on the other side of the river. July 25. — As wejournied along the formar tract, and over a plain near the Darling, we observed smoke to arise from the same place, in which it had appeared on the preceding evening ; but still no natives came to us. On passing our old camp, we perceived that two men and a boy had that morning stood on the ashes of our former fires, and gone all over the ground. We saw nothing, however, of the natives during the whole of this day ; and we finally halted within half a mile of our encampment of June 23. Here we found a species of Atriplex related to A. Halimus.* July 26. — The cattle having had a fatiguing journey, I thought it best to give them a day's rest, especially as I wished to examine the country and a group of hills to the eastward. I, therefore, set out with three men for the highest summit, (bearing 124° from N.), and distant thirteen miles. We * Atriplex halimoides ; fruticosa erecta squamuloso-incana, foliis rhombeo- ovatis integris, perianthiis fructiferis axillaribus solitariis sessilibus spongiosis, dorsi alis ovatis integris. (Lindl. MSS.) 28G COUl^TRY EASTWARD OF THK DARLING. [CH.VII. passed over four miles of firm, open ground, with some small rough gum-trees upon it. We then crossed a track on which I saw the angophora, for the first time, since we tra- versed Dunlop's range ; and near it we passed a hollow about half a mile wide, and a mile and a half long ; in which, although the surface was of clay, there was no appear- ance of water ever having lodged, a circumstance for which we could only account, by supposing, that much rain seldom falls, at any season, in this part of the interior. We next entered a scrub of dwarf casuarinse, and myoporummontanum, (R. Br.), the latter bush prevailing so as to form a thick scrub at the foot of the hills, and even upon them. The range, like all those which I had examined near the Darling, was of exactly the same kind of rock as D'Urban's group, Dunlop's range, &c. &c. viz. quartz rock breaking naturally into irregular polyedrons, but at the base I noticed ferru- ginous sandstone. The summit aftbrded a very extensive view of the country to the eastward, which rose towards a range extending south-east and north-west, its two extre- mities bearing 103° and 122° from north. At the foot of which, a blue mist might be supposed to promise a river or chain of ponds in an ordinary season ; and a rather high and isolated range of yellow rock, in the direction of Oxley's Mount Granard, seemed to overlook some extensive piece of water or spacious plain to the south of it. An intervening valley appeared also to form a basin falling southwards, but immediately beyond the group, I was upon, a vast extent of country, not low, but without any prominent features, although chequered with plain and bush, stretched far to the eastward. There were no large trees visible on any side, but a thick scrub of bushes covered much of the country. Upon the whole, I considered, that in a wet season, we might have travelled straight home, as there were many dry water holes in the surface, wiiere it consisted of clay, but that, unless rain I'cll, it would be vviscir, considering the exhausted state i)[ our cattle, to U(;(q» to the beaten track, loi- the animals CH. VII.] IMPORTUNITY OF THE RED TRIBE. 287 travelled much better upon it, and going back or home- wards along that track, was more convenient in various respects, than to travel where there was no road at all. As it now became necessary to distinguish the different ranges on my map, I attached to this remarkable cluster of hills the name of Mr. Greenough, a gentleman who has done so much in uniting geology with geography, to the great advantage of both. On returning to the camp, I found that two natives had been in communication with our party on the river, during my absence ; and that overseer Burnett had made a good bargain, having obtained from one of them, a very well made net, in exchange for a clasp knife, with which the native seemed much pleased. These visitors were young men, carrying each a net, and seemed to belong to the other side of the river. Soon after I returned, our old friends of the Red tribe came up in a body of about twelve, carrying- boughs. It was near sun-set, and still they shewed no disposition to go back to the river, but, on the contrary, they seemed about to make up their fires, and remain with us for the night. As their calls for tomahawks were incessant, it was easy to foresee, that it would soon be necessary to frighten them away with our guns, if they were allowed to continue near us. I therefore directed Burnett to point to the river, and request them to go thither to sleep, which they at length did. We also took care not to allow them to come close to the carts, to prevent which several men met them at a little distance, where they took their stand. On the bank of the river, at this place, we found beside the native fires, the remains of a fruit, different from any I had seen before. It seemed to be of a round shape, with a rind like an orange, and the inside, which appeared to have been eaten, resembled a pomegranate.* We here lost a bullock, which fell into a deep part of the river and * Since ascertained to have been Capparis Mitchellii {Undl. MSS.) See page 315. 288 CROSS THE DARLING. [CH. VIT. was drowned, having been too weak to swim to the other side. July 27. — Early this morning, the Bed tribe came up, and again begged for tomahawks. It was evident now, how inju- dicious we had been in giving these savages jDresents ; had we not done so, we should not have been so much impor- tuned by them. To avoid their solicitations, which were assuming an insolent tone, evinced by loud laughing to each other, at our expense, we loaded and moved off as quickly as possible, and they remained behind to examine the ground, which we had quitted. Upon the whole, however, the conduct of this tribe was much better than that of any we had seen lower down the river. They brought no arms, and had never attempted any warlike demonstrations, or to come forward when told to keep back; neither did they follow us. We got over our journey by two o'clock, and encamped near the old ground of June 2-3. Here the bed of the Darling, consisted of ferruginous clay, with grains of sand. July 28. — We proceeded by the beaten route, and pitched our tents within about a mile of our former camp. The cattle being very weak, I was desirous to avoid some soft ground near that position, by taking a shorter cut next morn- ing. The part of the river adjacent to this spot was fordable, the bed consisting of a variety of sandstone, composed of small siliceous grains cemented by decomposed felspar. July 29. — The day being clear, and the party within thir- teen or fourteen miles of Mount Macpherson, a fine hill be- yond the river, (bearing 3012° from N.), 1 determined to give the cattle a day's rest, and to ascend that hill in order to take another look at the western interior beyond the Darling. I thought, I might thus be enabled to fix many of the points observed from Mount Murchisson, or at all events, to ascer- tain the nature of the country to the north-west. I accord- ingly crossed the DarHng with four men, and proceeded straight for the hill over a very open country, and phiins CH. VII. ] NEW SPECIES OF CASSIA. 289 which were tolerably firm. On my way, however, I saw nothing new as to ground. The clay plains were bounded by a ridge of red sand (extending south-west and north- east), at a distance of four miles. On this ridge were divers casuarinae, and beyond it, was a low polygonum hollow, and a water-course in which water evidently sometimes ran north-east (! ), and a duck-net stake, fixed opposite to a tree, still remained there. It appeared that in all these side chan- nels, or tributaries of the Darling, the water flowed upwards, or from the river, a circumstance not unlikely to happen where the main channel rolls the accumulated waters of dis- tant regions through absorbent plains, on which partial rains can have but little effect. At about eight miles, we reached firm gravel, consisting of small and very hard stones, precisely similar in character and position to that near Mount INIurchisson. The pebbles were mixed with red earth, which also formed part of the lower features connected with the heio;ht before us. We crossed a deep gully, the bed of a creek in rainy seasons, but which had now been long dried up. The very hard sandstone still appeared, weathered to a purple colour ; the lower part was most ferruginous, and not so hard as above ; in the creek below, I observed a red crust of clay, and nodules of iron-stone. There were several rocky and deep ravines in the side of the principal height, and in these the oat-grass, or anthistiria, appeared, (for the first time since we had left the upper Bogan), also several plants, which were new to me, and among them a bush of striking beauty, with a rich yel- low flower, being a species of cassia* The summit of Mount Macpherson was clear, but it did not afford the view I ex- pected. The height consisted of some ridges, which did * This plant was found by Mr. Cunningham in 1817, on Mount Flinders, when he called it C. teretifolia. Dr. Lindley has described it as follows : — C. teretifolia (Cnnnmgh.lA'SS,.), incano-tomentosa, foliis pinnatis 5-6-jugis eglandulosis : foliolis teretibus filiformibus obtusis, paniculis terminalibus, ra- mulis corymbosis sub-o-floris, bracteolis ovatis obtusis concavis calycibusque tomentosis. 1 U 290 VIEW FROAI MOUNT MACPHERSON. [CH. VIT. not appear much higher further to the westward : those in that direction beiug connected with the summit, and also with each other, and extending to the north and south, prevented me from seeing almost any of the features ob- served from Mount Murchisson, which hill was barely visible. The only striking feature, I could perceive east of the Darling, was Greenough's grouj), which rose upon the horizon, level on that side, save where one or two summits of the higher ground, to the eastward, just appeared to break the sharpness of the bounding line. But the flatness of the north-western line of vision was still more remarkable, and it was difficult to understand how the basin of the Darling, which appeared so narrow below, could find limits there. The countr}^ to the northward, if not a dead level, was varied by only some slight undulations, and it was partially covered with stunted bushes, alternating with a few naked plains. As far as I could see with my glass, no smoke appeared to rise from the vast extent, visible in that direction. After taking the bearings of the different points, we returned, and recrossed the Darling about sunset. At the base of the hill, we met with several kangaroos, and had some shots (with bullets) at a very tame bustard. There was a rocky channel, whei'e water can be but seldom scarce. We saw none, but from the presence of kangaroos, Ave thought that there must have been some very near the hill. This hill I named Mount Macpherson after the collector of internal revenue at Sydney. July 30. — Proceeded on our journey by our former route, and arrived by four p. m. at our old camp of the 18tli and 19th June, which we again occupied. We were still at a loss to know for what purpose the heaps of one particular kind of grass* had been pulled, and so laid up hereabouts. Whether it was accumulated by the natives to allure birds, or by rats, as their holes were seen beneath, we were puzzled to deter- mine. The soft ground retained no longer the footsteps imprinted on it by the haymakers, whoever they had been. • Panicum tei'tnorfe (Lindl, MS.); for description see page 238. CH. VII.] FEW KANGAROOS OR EMUS. 291 The grass was beautifully green beneath the heaps, and full of seeds, and our cattle were very fond of this hay. I found there also two other kinds of grass, which were equally new to me, the one being an Andropogon allied to A. hombycinus ; the other apparently a species o^ Myurus. July 31. — Continued along our route to our former camp of 17th June. Aug. 1. — Two smart showers of about two minutes dura- tion each, fell during the night, but the wind, which had been blowing from the north-west was so parching, that the canvass of our tents was quite dry by day-break. The sky was ovei'cast with heavy clouds in the morning, but by noon it became clear. We travelled so as to make a short cut on our two days' journey of the 16th and 17th June, and thus, at about eight miles, we made that part of the river which we had seen formerly when nearly three miles from it, and here we encamped. As we crossed the plain on which the last kangaroo had been killed, we saw many fresh tracks of these animals ; and the dogs took after one, which they killed, as appeared by their mouths when they returned. It may be observed that lower down on the Darling, we saw neither kangaroos nor emus, a sufficient proof of the barrenness of the adjacent country. This day the ground somewhat i"e- sembled forest land, and we saw one or two trees of sub- stantial timber, of the description which the colonists term mahogany. Aug. 2. — ^We proceeded in a direction, by which we reached our former route, after four miles travelling ; and at a dis- tance of five miles more, we came to a spot near the river, where we encamped with the intention of avoiding next morning the detour, we made on approaching the camp, when we formerly occupied the spot in the bend of the river. As soon as our people approached the bank, we met with a gin and two young girls, upon which they called to an old man, who soon came up. He appeared no way alarmed, and seemed to have seen us before. The fatal tea-kettle again u 2 292 THE " OCCA" tribe again. [cH. VII. attracted the attention of a gin, and she pointed it out to her grey lord and master, who pronouncing the well known word " Occa" (give), reminded us of the greedy tribe in whose precincts we had now arrived, and which was, in fact, dis- tinguished by the name of the " Occa boys", from their con- stant use of the word, and coveting every thing they saw. The old man, however, continued his journey down the river, without obtainins; the kettle, or vet a knife, which he also demanded from one of our men, whom he saw cutting tobacco. Aug. '3. — We continued in a northern direction, till we cut upon the route to our last camp, and we thus avoided two bad miles, without lengthening the journey to the next of our former encampments, which we reached in good time, to allow the cattle to feed. Ai/g. 4. — We set off about eight this morning, and reached by five p. M. our encampment of the 12th and 13th of June. On the way, the ranges on our right, as tliey rose in view, afforded some relief to our eyes, so long accustomed to a ho- rizon as flat as the ocean ; and a gentle, cooling breeze from the east, felt very different from the parching west winds, to which we had been exposed. This day and the one before, were warm, and breathed most gratefully of spring. We re-crossed a gravel bed of irregular fragments of quartz and flint, at the base of some slitrht hills, which reach from the range to the river. Between these undulations were soft j)lains, the surface of which was cracked and full of holes ; and it seemed that the torrents which fall from the hills, are imbibed by this thirsty earth. As we approached our camp, the dogs were sent after two emus, and at dusk one of them returned having killed his bird, though we did not find it, until early next morning. The emu came to hand, however, in good time even then, for the men had been long living on salt provisions. Our former lagoon had l)ecou)e a (puigmire of mud, and we were forced to send for water from the river. The pigeons and parrots which swarmed about this hole at dusk, the quantity of featiiers, and the tracks of emus and CH. VII.] RESOLVE TO AVOID THE NATIVES. 293 kangaroos around it, shewed how scarce this essential ele- nient had become in the back country. At such small pools, water becomes an object of desire and contest, and, so long as it lasts, these spots in times of scarcity, are invariably haunted by that omnivorous biped man, to whom both birds and quadrupeds fall an easy prey. We, however, during a sojourn of more than two months in the Australian wilderness, had been abundantly supplied with the finest water, from that extraordinary river which we had been tracing, and without which those regions would be deserts, inaccessible to, and uninhabitable by, either man or beast. Aug.b. — As the last journey had been a long one, and we had some rough ground before us, we rested a day here, while the blacksmith repaired one of the cart wheels. The calls of the natives were heard very early in the morning, and two fellows came to our men on the river, impudently demanding tomahawks ; but little attention was paid to them, and they did not visit the camp. We had no longer any desire to communicate with the aborigines, for we had too long, in vain, held out to them the olive branch, and made them presents ; and as we could not hope to gain their friendship, we were resolved to brook no longer the sight of their burning brands and other gestures of hostility ; still less were we inclined to give tomahawks on demand, since our presents had not been received with that sense of obli- gation, which might have been shewn by any class of human beings, however savage. I, therefore, now determined to avoid the natives wherever I could, and if they came near the party, to encourage their approach as little as possible. Atig. 6. — We continued along our old route, but at about seven miles we cut off a considerable angle in that point of it, where we formerly saw the Puppy tribe, and were thus enabled to pass two miles beyond our former ground, and to pitch our tents near the river. At this encamp- ment, we perceived smoke arising from the same native bivouac, which I visited in my journey on horseback, before 294 THEIR HABITS. [CH. VII. the party left Fort Bourke. From this smoke and other cir- cumstances, it would appear, that some of the tribes, on the Darling, are not migratory, but remain, in part at least, the gins and children possibly, at some particular portion of the river. This seems probable too, considering how much better they must thus become acquainted with the haunts of the fishes, which are here their chief food. The ground, we now occupied, was, upon the whole, the best piece of country, in point of soil, that I had seen upon the Darling. Dunlop's range was just behind, an extremity of it extending to the river, at three miles west from our camp. Three miles fur- ther eastward, our old route was crossed by a hollow which appeared to be the outlet of an extensive water-course, coming from the south-east, along the base of Dunlop's range, or the low country between it and D'Urban's group. We had scarcely started this morning, when the dogs killed another emu, and in the course of the day, we passed and recognised the spot, where our first emu was killed. Thus in one day, on our outward journey, we had traversed the country in which all the emus we had ever killed on the Darling, three in number, had been found. The hill which we crossed in our route, consisted of a different sort of rock from any of those that we had seen further down the Darling, being a splintery quartz, in which the grains of sand or quartz are firmly embedded in the siliceous cement. Aug. 7. — The morning was calm and sultry, but we con- tinued the homeward route along our former ti'ack, and over a fine, firm plain. As soon as we had crossed, what may be termed Dunlop's creek (the dry hollow above-mentioned), we started four kangaroos ; of which the dogs first killed one, which we got, and afterwards another, in a scrub into which they had pursued the rest. These two were the only kangaroos that wo killed on this river ; and the circumstance afforded anothci- j)roor of the superiority of the grass in the adjacent country, ooiiijnired with tluit lower down. Neither CIl. VII. j HINTS TO AUSTRALIAN SPORTSMEN. 295 these animals nor emus can approach the Darlmg (owing to the steepness of its banks), except by descending in the dry channels of water-courses, or by gullies; hence, probably, their appearance near Dunlop's creek, which affords an easy means of access ; and hence also, perhaps, the chief motive for the establishment of the native camp in that neighbourhood, from the facility afforded for killing the animals as they ap- proached to drink. Of the kangaroo and emu, it may be observed, that any noise may be made in hunting the latter without inconvenience ; but that the less made in chasing the former the better. The emu is disposed to halt and look, being, according to the natives, quite deaf; but having an eye proportionally keen. Thus it frequents the open plains, being there most secure from whoever may invade the soli- tude of the desert. The kangaroo, on the contrary, bounds onward while any noise continues ; whereas, if it be pursued silently, it is prone to halt and look behind, and thus to lose distance. Dogs learn sooner to take the kangaroo than the emu, although young ones get sadly torn in conflicts with the former. But it is one thing, for a swift dog to overtake an emu, and another thing to kill, or even seize it. Our dogs were only now learning to capture emus, although they had chased and overtaken many. To attempt to lay hold by the side or leg is dangerous, as an emu could break a horse's leg with a kick ; but if a dog fastens upon the neck, as good dogs learn to do, the bird is immediately overthrown and easily killed. The flesh resembles a beef-steak, and it has a very agreeable flavour, being far preferable to that of the kangaroo. We passed our old camp of the 10th of June, and taking a new route thence. in a north-east direction; we avoided a bad scrub, and encamped in fine open ground on the river. We were soon hailed by some of our old friends of the Fort Bourke tribe, by far the best conducted natives, that we had seen on the Darling. They asked our men for tomahawks, and I had instructed them to explain, that for three large 296 Hume's tree. [ch. vii. cod-perch they should have one in exchange. We could catch none of these fishes ourselves, which was rather singular, as some of our poor fellows were indefatigable in making the attempt every night, with hook and line and all kinds of bait. The natives seemed to understand our wants, and they pro- mised to bring us fish in the morning. At sun-set, the wind changed to the south-west, and the sky became overcast : the air also was cooler, and after such heat as that which we experienced to-day, at this season, a fall of rain might have been expected ; but I felt less apprehensive here, from four months' experience of the climate of the interior. Aug. 8. — Eai'ly this morning, a number of natives came near our camp, but without bringing any fish. The man to whom the promise of a tomahawk had been made, was not, however, amongst them. I went up to the party when we were about to continue our journey, and I recognized one of the Fort Bourke tribe, the "total gules" man, who had for- merly appeared very shy and timid. Now, however, in half a minute his hand was in my pocket ; on which I instantly mounted my horse and rode on. We crossed the tracks of our horses' feet on my first excursion, and entered a plain, where we struck into the old route. In this plain, we saw three emus, and killed one, after a hard run. On coming to the hollow, which leads to the tree marked with Mr. Hume's initials (and which may therefore be called Hume's Creek), I measured with the chain its channel to the river, so as to connect the tree with the survey. I found that it bore due north from where our route crossed this hollow, the distance being sixty-nine chains. We reached our camp of the Dth of June by half-past two o'clock, and took up the same ground. Aug. 9. — We continued our journey along the old track to our camp of the 8th of June, where we once more rested for the night. This was a very convenient station, being nearly on tlie miirgin of the river, the bank of wiiich, consisting of concretionary limestone, afiorded easy access for the cattle to CH. VII.] RETURN TO FORT BOURKE. 297 the water, while the surrounding hollows supplied them with plenty of grass. I was now enabled to reduce the cattle guard from four to two men, which was a great relief to them. The backward journey allowed me a little time to look about me, and the river scenery here was fine. Indeed the position of our camp was most romantic, being a little eminence in the midst of grassy hollows, and recesses of the deepest shade, covered by trees of wild character and luxu- riant growth. Aug. 10. — The whole party was ready to start early this morning, and we proceeded in good time, in hopes of reaching our old home at Fort Bourke. Our dogs caught two of the largest kind of kangaroo, as we crossed the plains. The cattle, although now weak, seemed also eager to get back to their old pasture, on which they had fed so long for- merly. We accomplished by four p. m. the journey of fourteen miles. From Fort Bourke, we had been absent two months and two days, having travelled during that time over 600 miles, even in direct distance. On our return from the lower country, this place looked better than ever in our eyes. The whole of the territory seen by us down the river, did not present such another spot, either for security, extent of good grazing land, or convenient access to water. The fort was uninjured, except that the blacks had been at infinite pains to cut out most of the large spike nails, fastening the logs of which the block-house was constructed. We all felt comparatively at home here ; and indeed we were really about half way to our true home, for we had retraced about 300 miles, and were not more than the same distance from Buree, which is only 170 miles from Sydney. The cattle had done so well, that I resolved to give them two days' rest; and more could not be afforded them, as the weather, though beautiful, might change, and we had some very soft ground still to go over. It was remarkable, that the water of the river, which for the last three days' journey had been bi*ackish, was here again, as formerly, as 298 SALTNESS OF THE DARLING. [CH. VII. pure and sweet as any spring water. Fort Bourke consists of an elevated plateau, overlooking a reach of the river a mile and a half in length, the hill being situated near a sharp turn, at the lower end of the reach. At this turn, a small dry water-course, which surrounds Fort Bourke on all sides, save that of the river, joins the Darling, and contains abundance of grass. The plateau consists of about 160 acres of rich loam, and was thinly wooded, before it was entirely cleared by us in making our place of defence. There are upon it various burying-places of the natives, who always choose the highest parts of that low country for the purpose of interment, their object being probably the security of the graves from floods. The tribe frequenting that neighbourhood, consists of a very few inoffensive individuals, less mischievous, as already observed, than any we had seen on the banks of the Darling. We were about to leave, at last, this extraordinary stream, on which we had sojourned so long, enjoying abundance of excellent water, in the heart of a desert country. From the sparkling transparency of this water, its undiminished current, sustained without receiving any tributary through- out a course of 660 miles, and especially from its being salt in some places and fresh at others, it seems probable that the river, when in that reduced state, is chiefly supported by springs. It would appear that the saltness occurs in the greatest body of water, where no current was perceptible, and as this was excessive when the river was first dicovered, it may be attributed to saline springs, due to beds of rock- salt in the sandstone or clay. The bed of the river is on an average about sixty feet below the common surface of the country. To this depth the soil generally consists of clay, ill whicli calcareous concretions and selenite occur abun- dantly; but at some parts, the clay, cbarged with iron, forms a soft kind of rock in the bed, or banks of the river. TluTo are no traces of water-courses on these level plains, -11(1) as might be expected to fall from the hills behind ; CH. VIT.] TRACES OF FLOODS. 299 though the latter contain hollows and gullies, which must in wet seasons conduct water to the plains. The dis- tance of such heights from the river, is seldom less than twelve miles; and it would appear, that the intervening country is of such an ahsorhent nature, that any water fall- ing in torrents from the hills, is imbibed by the soft earth, or is received in the deep broad cracks, which sear the hollow parts, and in wet seasons must take up much water and retain it, until either evaporated, or sunk to lower levels. The water may thus be absorbed and retained for a con- siderable time, or until it is carried by slow drainage into the river, especially where the lower parts of such plains are shut in by hills approaching the channel. Thus, where the extremity of Dunlop's range shot forward into the wide level margin, we found that the water had lost all taste of salt, a circumstance most easilj^ accounted for, by supposing that springs being more abundant there, from the near vici- nity of the hills, had diluted the water which we had found salt higher up. That some tributary, or branch joins the river from the opposite bank, at or near the sweep it de- scribes round the hill, is not unlikely. I could not conve- niently examine that part from our side, and hence it remains doubtful whether the problem admits of such easy solution. The marks of high floods were apparent on the surface, frequently to the extent of two miles back from the ordinary channel. Within such a space, the waters appear to over- flow and then to lodge in hollows (covered with polygonttm jwicevm), and which were at the time of our visit full of yawning cracks. Such parts of the surface would natu- rally be the first saturated in times of flood, and the last to part with moisture in seasons of drought. I observed that there was less of that kind of low ground, where the water was saltest, which was to the westward of D'Urban's group. The 'basin of the Darling, which may be considered to 300 SURFACE OF THE PLAINS. [CH. VII. extend, in parts, at least, to the coast ranges on the east, appears to be very limited on the opposite or western side; a desert country from which it did not receive, as far as I could discover, a single tributary of any importance. A succession of low ridges seemed there to mark the extent of its basin, nor did I perceive in the country beyond, any ranges of a more decidedly fluviatile character. The average breadth of the river at the surface of the water, when low, is about fifty yards, but oftener less than this, and seldom more. Judging from the slight fall of the country, and the softness and evenness of the banks (commonly in- clined to an angle with the horizon of about 40°), I cannot think, that the velocity of the floods in the river ever exceeds one mile per hour, but that it is in general much less. At this time the water actually flowing, as seen at one or two shallow places, did not exceed in quantity, that which would be ne- cessary to turn a mill. The banks every where displayed one peculiar feature, namely, the effect of floods in parallel lines, marking on the smooth sloping earth, the various heio-hts to which the waters had indifferent floods arisen. Some of the hollows behind the immediate banks on both sides, contained lagoons ; in several of these, reeds had taken the place of water ; in others the first coating of vege- tation, which the alluvium receives on exposure to the sun, consisted of fragrant herbs, and amongst them we found the scented trefoil (" CiMomba"),* which proved an excellent anti-scorbutic vegetable when boiled. It was found, how- ever, only at three places. The surface of the plains nearest the river, is unlike any part of the earth's face, that I have elsewhere seen. It is as clear of vegetation as a fallow field, but it has greater inecpia- lity of surface, and is full of holes. The soil is just tenacious enough to crack, when the surface becomes so soft and loose, that the few weeds which may have sprang up previous to desiccation, seldom remain where they grow, being blown * TriijonrUa iuovissimii, for the fiescrii)tion of which plant, sec page '25.3. CFI. VII.] GEOLOGY OF THE DARLING. 301 out by the slightest wind. Over such gTound it was very fatiguing to walk, the foot at each step sinking to the ankle, and care being necessary to avoid holes, always ready to re- ceive the whole leg, and sometimes the body. It was not very safe to ride on horseback even at a walk, and to gallop or trot in that country, was quite out of the question. The labour which this kind of ground cost the poor bul- locks, drawing heavy carts, reduced them to so great a state of weakness, that six never returned from the Darling. The work was so heavy for the two first teams on our advancing into these regions, that one team was rendered quite un- serviceable by leading ; but on returning we found the beaten track much easier for the whole party. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, we were much indebted to Providence for the continued dryness of tlie winter ; for although it seemed then, as if nothing short of a deluge, could have completed the saturation, there were also many proofs, that great inundations sometimes occurred ; and it was still more obvious, that had rainy weather, or any overflowing of the river happened, we could no longer have travelled on the banks of the Darling. The rocks about the surface of this country are few and simple. Besides the clay, nothing occurred in the river bed, except calcareous concretions, selenite, and in some parts sandstone similar to that seen at the base of almost all the hills. Back from the river, the first elevation usually consisted of hillocks of red sand, so soft and loose, that the cattle could scarcely draw the carts through. The clay adjacent to the sand, was firmer than any clay seen else- Avhere on the plains, because the sand there acted like a sponge, taking up the water from the adjacent clay, which consequently preserved its tenacity at all seasons. This edge of clay along the skirts of plains at the base of tlie red sand ridges, I found the most favourable ground for travelling upon. Still further back, gravel, consisting of fragments, not much water-worn, of various hard rocks. 302 WOODS AND GRASSES. [CH. VTI. appeared, forming low undulations towards the base of more remote hills, which consist of a very hard sand- stone. I may here mention, however, that the extremity of Dunlop's range, which, by approaching the river, there occu- pied the place of the hard gravel in other situations, seemed to be composed of the same rock of which much of that gravel consisted. Of the hills in general, it may be observed, that those on the left bank are most elevated at the higher parts of the I'iver, whereas those on the right bank, rise into greatest heio-ht, towards the lower narts of the river, as far as ex- plored by us. The plains extend on each side of the channel to a distance of six or seven miles, and are in general clear of timber. That deep and extensive bed of clay, so uniformly filling the basis of this river, has every appearance of a mud deposit. Behind the plains the country is sparingly wooded, except by the stunted bush {Myoporuni montanum), which forms a thick scrub, especially on the side of the low hills. On the river bank, trees peculiar to it, grow to so large a size, that its course may be easily traced at great distances ; and they thus facilitated our survey most materially. These gigantic trees consist of that species of eucalyptus called b]ue-2;um in the colonv ; and theii- searchino- roots seem to luxuriate in the banks of streams, lakes, or ponds, so that the thirsty traveller soon learns to recognise the shining- trunk, and white, knarled arms, as the surest guides to water. The alluvial portion of the margin of the Darling is narrow, and in most places overgrown with the dwarf box, which is another species of eucalyptus. In it are hollow places as already observed, covered with the polyfjonum jwi- ceum, which is an unsightly leafless bush or bramble. Grass is only to be found on the banks of the river, and, strictly speaking, the uiaigin only can be considered alluvial, for this being irrigated and enriched by the floods, it is every where abundantly productive of grass, though none may api)eai' in the back country. CH. VII.] CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. 303 In the ground beyond the plains, some casuarinae and eucalypti are occasionally seen in the scrubs which grow on the red sand, and an acacia, with a white stem, and spotted bark, there grows to a considerable size, and produces much gum. Indeed gum acacia abounds in these scrubs, and when the country is more accessible, may become an article of commerce. The plants, were in general different from those nearer the colony, and though they were few in number, yet they were curious. Of grasses I gathered seeds of twenty-five different kinds, six of which grew only on the alluvial bank of the Darling. Among them were a poa, and the chloris truncata, and stipa setacea of Mr. Brown. The country was, nevertheless, almost bare, and the roots, stems, and seeds, the products of a former season, were blown about on the soft face of the parched and naked earth ; where the last spring seemed, indeed, to have produced no vegetation, ex- cepting a thin crop of an unbelliferous weed. The character and disposition of the natives, may be o-a- thered from the foregoing journal of our progress along the river. It seldom happened, that I was particularly engaged, with a map, a drawing, or a calculation, but I was inter- rupted by them, or respecting them. It was evident, that our presents had the worst effect, for although they were given with every demonstration of good will on our part, the gifts seemed only to awaken on theirs, a desire to destroy us, and to take all we had. While sitting in the dust with them, conformably to their custom, often have they examined my cap, evidently with no other view than to ascertain, if it would resist the blow of a waddy. Then, they would feel the thickness of my dress, and whisper together, their eyes occasionally glancing at their spears and clubs. The ex- pression of their countenances was sometimes so hideous, that after such interviews, I have found comfort in contem- plating the honest faces of the horses and sheep ; and even in the scowd of " the patient ox," I have imagined an ex- 304 CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. [ciI.VII. pression of dignity, wlien he may liave pricked up his ears, and turned his horns towards these wild specimens of the " lords of the creation." Travellers in Australian deserts will find, that such savages cannot I'emain at rest when near, but are ever ready and anxious to strip them by all means in their power, of everything, however useless to the natives. It was not until we proceeded en vainqueur, that we knew anything like tranquillity on the Darling ; and I am now of opinion, that to discourage at once the approach of such na- tives, would tend more to the safety of an exploring party, than presenting them with gifts. These rovers of the wilds seem to consider such presents, as the offerings of fear and weakness ; and 1 attribute much of their outrageous conduct to such mistaken notions, and their incorrigible covetousness, against which, the best security, unfortunately for them and us, appeared to be to keep them at a distance. The further we descended the river, the more implacably savage we found the blacks. I have already remarked, that the more ferocious had not lost their front teeth, and that those we had seen on the Upper Darling, had all lost one tooth. Indeed it was precisely, where we first Avitnessed the inauspicious ceremony of the green branch burnt, and waved at us in defiance, that we first found natives, who retained both front teeth. A considerable portion of the river, quite uninhabited, lay between these fire-throwers and the less offensive natives, and there was a difference in the pronun- ciation, at least, if not in the words, of the tribes. The old men on the Darling, are by far the most expert at stealing ; and notwithstanding my marks of respect to them in particular, they were not the less the instigators and abet- tors of every thing wrong. A mischievous old man is usually accompanied by a stout middle aged man and a boy ; thus the cunning of the old one, the strength of him of middle age, and the agility of the youth, are combined with advantage; both in their intercourse with their neigh])Ours, and in seeking tlie moans of existence. The old man leads, as fittofl by liis CH. VII.] NETS USED BY THEM. 305 experience to do so ; and he has also at his command, by this combination, the strength and agility of the other two. The natives of the Darling live chiefly on the fish of the river, and are expert swimmers and divers. They can swim and turn with great velocity under water, and they can both see and spear the largest fish, sometimes remaining beneath the surface a considerable time for this purpose. In very cold weather, however, they float on pieces of bark ; and thus also they can spear the fish, having a small fire beside them in such a bark canoe. They also feed on birds, and espe- cially on ducks, which they ensnare with nets, in the posses- sion of every tribe. These nets are very well worked, much resembling our own in structure, and they are made of the wild flax, which grows in tufts near the river. These are easily gathered by the gins, who manage the whole process of net-making. They give each tuft (soon after gathering it) a twist, also biting it a little, and in that state it is laid about on the roof of their huts until dry. Fishing nets are made of various similar materials, being often very large ; and attached to some of them, I have seen half-inch cordage, which might have been mistaken for the production of a rope-walk. But the largest of their nets are those set across the Darling for the purpose of catching the ducks which fly along the river in considerable flocks. These nets are strong, with wide meshes ; and when occasion requires, they are stretched across the river from a lofty pole erected for the purpose on one side, to some large opposite tree on the other. Such poles are permanently fixed, supported by substantial props, and it was doubtless one of them, that Captain Sturt supposed to have been erected, to propitiate some deity. The native knows well " the alleys green" through which at twilight, the thirsty pigeons and parrots rush towards the water; and there, with a smaller net hung up, he sits down, and makes a fire ready to roast the birds, which may fall into his snare. These savages have a power of manipulating with their 1 X 306 SUPERSTITIONS. [CH. VII. toes, so as to do many things surprising- to men who wear shoes.* This power they acquire chiefly by ascending trees from infancy, their mode of cHmbing depending as much on the toes as the fingers. With the toes, they gather fresh-water muscles (unto) from the muddy bottom of rivers or lagoons ; and the heaps of these shells beside their old fire places, which are numerous along the banks, shew that this shell-fish is the daily food of, at least, the gins and children. In their attempts to steal from us, their feet were much em- ployed. They would tread softly on any article, seize it with the toes, pass it up the back, or between the arm and side, and so conceal it in the arm-pit, or between the beard and throat. The hoary old priest of the Spitting-tribe was intent on tricks of this kind, assisted by his people, and while he was thus plotting or effecting mischief he chaunted that extra- ordinary hymn to " some deity", or devil. It was evident, that these people were actuated by superstitious ideas of some kind ; but which, judging by their acts, had no connexion with any good principle. When the two old men paced thrice round our lowest position on the Darling, chaunting their song, throwing their arms to the sky, and rubbing them- selves with dust ; arrangements were no doubt in progress, for the destruction of strangers, of whose good will towards them, they had seen abundant ])roofs, not only in our conduct, but in the useful presents we had made them. They had no grounds for any suspicion of danger from us ; yet, that these ceremonies were observed, the better to ensure success in the plans for our destruction, admitted of little doubt, for they were connected with all their hostile movements. Yet even in defence of such an inijdacable disposition towards the civilized intruder, much may be urged. No reflecting * " AIoiTuda, ycTiiiba, tuiidy kin arrii, Morrudu, yorrabii, min yin guiny wife mi hV." Sonff of WoUondilhj natives ; meaning " On lond the wliitP man walks with croaking shoes ; He cannot, walk up trees, nor \ihjei-t-fiiii/ci\i use." CH. VII.] CONDITION OF THE FEMALES. 307 man can witness the quickness and intelligence of the abori- gines, as displayed in their instant comprehension of our numerous appliances, without feelings of sympathy. He must perceive, that these people cannot be so obtuse as not to anticipate in the advance of such a powerful race, the extir- pation of their own, in a country which barely affords to them the means of existence. Such must be the conclusion in their minds, although it is to be hoped, that the results of our invasion may be different ; and, that if these savage people do not learn habits of industry, a breed of wild cattle may at least compensate them, for the loss of the kangaroo and opossum. The population of the Darling seemed to have been much reduced by small-pox, or some cutaneous disease, which must have been very virulent, considering their dirty mode of living; and its violence was indeed apparent in the marks on those who survived. Considering the industry and skill of their gins or wives, in making nets, sewing cloaks, muscle fishing, rooting, &c. ; and their patient submission to labour, always carrying the bags which contain the whole property of the family, the great value of a gin to one of these lazy fellows, may be easily imagined. Accordingly the possession of them appears to be associated with all their ideas of fighting ; while, on the other hand, the gins have it in their power on such occasions, to evince that universal characteristic of the fair, a partiality for the brave. Thus it is, that after a battle, they do not always follow their fugitive husbands from the field, but fre- quently go over, as a matter of course, to the victors, even with young children on their backs; and thus it was, probably, after we had made the lower tribes sensible of our superiority, that the three gins followed our party, beseeching us to take them with us. Depending chiefly on the river for subsistence, they do not wander so much as those who hunt the kangaroo and opossum, in the higher country, near our colony. Hence the more per- X 2 308 SECURITY OF THE ANTS. [CH.Vir. manent nature of the huts on the Darling ; and it would appear, that different tribes occupy different portions of the river. The Spitting tribe desired our men to pour out the water from the buckets, as if it had belonged to them ; diofoino-, at the same time, a hole in the "round to receive it when poured out ; and I have more than once seen a river chief, on receiving a tomahaAvk, point to the stream, and signify that we were then at liberty to take water from it, so strongly were they possessed with the notion, that the water was their own. We saw no kangaroos loAver down than Dunlop's range, neither did we seen any emus. In the red sand-hills were many burrows of the wombat, but these also became scarce, as we proceeded downwards. A species of rat* was remarkable for the ingenious fabric, it raised to secure itself from the native dog, or birds of prey. The structure consisted of a rick or stack of small branches, commonly worked around and interlaced with some small bush, the whole resembling a pile laid for one of the signal fires so much used by the natives. As these heaps of dead boughs drew the attention of our dogs, we at length examined several of them, and always found a small nest in the centre, occupied by the same kind of rat. This animal had ears exactly resembling those of a small rabbit, soft downy wool and short hind legs; indeed, but for the tail, it might have passed for a small rabbit. The work of an ant peculiar to the country, also attracted our attention. Instead of a mound, these insects made a habitation or excavation under the surface, about six feet in diameter, and it was quite smooth, level and clean, as if constantly swept. It was also nearly as hard as stone; and the only access to it was by one or two small holes. This surface was, to us, on first advancing into the interior, one of its wonders. Tiius this variety of ant dwells securely at some • Conilurus constructor. Utjill/y. CH. VII.] BIRDS. 309 depth below, for notliingless than a pickaxe can penetrate to the larvae ; but those of another variety of the common kind, which construct mounds, are eaten by the native fe- males and children, who carry wooden shovels forthepurpose ofdissfinir them out. The bronze-wing pigeon was here, as elsewhere, the most numerous of that kind of bird. Next in abundance was the crested pigeon, which seems more peculiar to these low levels. There were large Hocks of a brown pigeon with a white head, and not an uncommon bird elsewhere ; also a small species of dove with very handsome plumage. The large black cockatoo was sometimes seen, and about the river banks, the common white cockatoo with yellow top-knot {Plyctolophus galeritus). The smaller bird of this genus with a scarlet and yellow crest, and pink wings {Plyctolo- phus Leadheateri), was rarely noticed, and it appeared to come from a distance, flying usually very high. The pink- coloured wings and glowing crest of this beautiful bird, might have embellished the air of a more voluptuous region; and, indeed, from its transient visits, it did not seem quite at home on the banks of the Darling. The plumage of several kinds of parrots was extremely rich, and even the small birds were clothed in pink and blue. But the air, however much adorned by the feathered race, had its thieves, as well as the earth. The croAvs were amazingly bold, always accompanying us from camp to camp. It was absolutely necessary to watch our meat while in kettles on the fire, and, on one occasion, notwithstanding our cook's vigilance, a piece of pork weighing three pounds, was taken from a boiling pot, and carried off by one of these birds ! The hawks were equally voracious. A pigeon had been no sooner shot by Burnett, than an audacious hawk carried it away, and, as if fearless of a similar fate, he flew but a very short distance from the fowler, before he had taken half the feathers off. 310 FISHES. [CH. VII. The species of fish most abundant in the Darling, is the Gristes Peelii, or cod-perch, and they are caught of a very large size by the natives. We also saw the thick-scaled mud-tasted fish (Cernua Bidyana, see page 95). We did not, on this occasion, see that very remarkable fish, the Eel- fish (Plotosus Tanclanus), so abundant in the higher parts of the river. The water was too clear, and the weather too cold , for fishing with bait, one of each of the two species first mentioned, caught during our first occupation of Fort Bourke, being all we ever procured. No rain had fallen during the four months, which had elapsed since we left the colony, and it was probable that the ponds of the Bogan, many of which our cattle had drank up during our advance, would not afford a sufficient supply of water, nor even be numerous enough on the route for our daily wants, considering the short stages, we were obliged to travel, on account of the exhausted cattle. We had already lost six bullocks on our return journey, some having got bogged, and others having lain down from weakness, never to rise. For three hundred miles, we were now to depend on the ponds of the Bogan, and again to contend with the scarcity of water, a disadvantage from which we had been quite free, while on the banks of the Darling. Avfj. 1 1 . — Having, at length, two days of leisure, I was anxious to com])lete my surveys of this river. I found, that the distance from D'Urban's group to Mr. Hume's tree, the furthest point attained by Captain Sturt, was 17 miles and 22 chains, not 33 miles as stated by that tra- veller; and that the highest summit of D'Urban's group, bore from it 53° E. of S. not 58° E. of S. the latter bearing, as given by Sturt, being probably a clerical or typographical error. Aug. 12. — About ten a. m. the calls of the natives were he.ird, and four or five came towards tiie camp, asking for CH. Aai.] VISITED BY THE FORT BOURKE TRIBE. 311 tomahawks. I sent two of our people to them, but they were restless and importunate ; soon after I saAV them run- ninff, havino- set the g-rass on fire. We then sallied forth in pursuit, to make them retire across the Darling, but they had crossed ere we saw them. I believe these were strangers, for the gins of the Fort Bourke tribe continued, all the while, quietly to fish for muscles in the river, without taking- notice of them. CHAPTER VIII. The party leaves the Darling— Natives approach the camp during the night- Scared by a rocket— Discovery of a Caper-tree— The kangaroos and emus driven away by the natives — Difference between the plains of the Darling and Bogan— Extreme illness of one ef the party— New-Year's range— A thunder-storm— Three natives remind us of the man wounded— Another man of the party taken ill -Acacia pendula— Beauty of the scenery — Mr. Larmer traces Duck Creek to the Macquarie— A hot-wind—" Talambe" of the Bogan tribe— Tombs of Milmeridien— Another bullock fails— Natives troublesome— Successful chase of four kangaroos— Natives of the Bogan come up— Water scarce — Two red painted natives— Uncertainty of Mr. Cunningham's fate— Mr. Larmer overtakes the party— Result of his survey — Send off a courier to Sydney— Marks of Mr. Dixon— Tandogo Creek and magnificent pine forest — Harvey's range in sight — Improved appearance of the country — Meet the natives who first accompanied us — Arrive at a cattle station— Learn that Mr. Cunningham had been killed by natives — Cookopie ponds— Goobang Creek— Character of the river Bogan— Native inhabitants on its banks — Tlieir mode of fishing — Manners and customs — Prepare to quit the party — The boats — Plan of encampment— Mount Juson — Leave the party and mark a new line of ascent to Harvey's range— Get upon a road —Arrive at Buree. Aug. 13. — This morning we finally quited Fort Bourke and the banks of the Darling, to return by our former route along the Bogan. We halted within a mile of our previous encampment, and again drank of the waters of that river, but from a very shallow pond, that w^hich we formerly had recourse to, being quite dry. Aug. 14. — We continued the journey most prosperously, all things considered, and bivouacked beside a large pond, two miles beyond our ground of the 23rd May. We saw natives all about, but they did not venture too near us. I supposed they were of the tribe, which formerly behaved so well, when we passed these ponds. About eight p. m. how- ever, we perceived numerous fire-sticks approaching among the bushes ; and though I counted nine in motion, yet I heard no noise. I diiectcd the men to be silent, curious to CH. VIII.] NATIVES SCARED BV A ROCKET. 313 know what these people meant to do. At length, when the lights had approached within 150 yards of our camp, every one suddenly disappeared ; the bearers preserving all the while, the most j^erfect silence. I then thought it advisable to scare these natives away, supposing that they were lurking about our camp with the intention to steal. I accordingly placed some men with instructions to rush forward shouting, as soon as I should send up a rocket. Its ascent, and our sudden accompanying noise had, no doubt, a tremendous effect on the natives, for even in the morning they remained at a respectful distance. Au(/. 15. — We began to discover some signs of vegetation in the earth. Blades of green grass appeared among the yellow stalks, and on the plains, we found a new species of Danthonia ;* the whole country, indeed, already wore a better appearance than on any part of the Darling. We passed our station of 22nd May, about a mile, and encamped close to a good pond. Several natives' huts were near, at w^hicli the fires were still burning ; the inhabitants having fled ; but I forbade the men to go near these huts, or touch a stone hatchet and some carved bommerengs, which had been left behind. A native dog lay as if watching these implements ; and it barked on my approaching one of the huts, a circum- stance unusual in one of these animals. Soon after, four natives came up shouting, and two of them having advanced in front, sat down, but we took no notice of them, thinking that they had followed from the last camp, and belonged to the fire-stick visitors ; they called back the fugitives, how- ever, and encamped together on a pond lower down. Aug. 16. — As we moved off about eight this morning, the blacks hung about in groups, but we paid no attention to them. We had now, happily for both parties, arrived where the natives had probably heard of fire-arms, and of the nu- * Danthonia ?«^?;)acea, (Lindl. MSS.); spicisgeminatis foliis brevioribus, palea inferiore sericea cornea; laciniis lateralibus foliatis divaricatis arista rigida brevioribus. 314 DISCOVERY OF THE CAPER TREE. [CH. VIII. raerous white men beyond the hills, neither were the blacks of these parts ever knoAvn to behave like the savages on the lower Darling. I sought, in vain, for my lost telescope during this day's journey ; the natives having probably found it, as the whole line of our track was much marked with their footsteps. We reached our former camp of May 20 and 21, by two o'clock, and again pitched our tents near that spot. Aug. 17. — Nineteen of our bullocks had strayed during the night, but were found about seven miles back, in a scrub near the Bogan. We did not, therefore, start until ten o'clock, but were able, nevertheless, to cross the Pink hills, and reach our ground of May 1 9. To-day I fell in with a tree, of which I saw but a single specimen during my former journey,* and I had observed only a sickly one before dur- ing this expedition. It bore a yellow flower, and fruit resem- bling a small pomegranate, on a hooked stalk. I had un- fortunately omitted to gather specimens of it, when seen by me in flower, in 1831 ; and now I could not procure any of the seeds, every rind being hollow, and the interior destroyed apparently by insects. I considered this a very remarkable tree, as well from its rare occurrence, as on account of its fruit, of which the natives appear to make some use. The Pink hills, as I have already mentioned, consist of the diluvial gravel ; and their position at the point sepa- rating the tributary basin of the Macquarie and Bogan, from the channel of the Darling, is just where such a deposit might be produced. Aug. 18. — I was more successful in my search, this morn- ing, for seeds of the fruit above-mentioned ; and I was sur- prised to find many specimens of the tree in the scrub, through which we had previously passed, without observing them. On one plant, we found some fruit apparently full grown, but not ripe ; and on others perfect specimens of the last year's crop, including, of course, the seeds. The fruit re- sembles a small lemon, but has within, small nuts or stones, * Seepage 2^7. CH. VIII.] DIFFERENCE OF PLAINS. 315 enveloped in a soft pulp, and the whole has an agreeable perfume. We also found some' specimens of the flower, rather faded.* We reached our old encampment of May 18, by three o'clock. Aug. 19. — When all were ready to start, it was discovered that one bullock was missing ; the two men who had been in charge of the cattle all night, were sent in search of it, while the party proceeded towards our former camp of May 17. As our route, between these camps, traversed the great bend, where the course of the Bogan changes from north to west- north-west, I was enabled to cut oflf four miles, by travelling N. 145° E. a part of the way. We crossed some undulating ground, with an open forest upon it, in which we killed two large kangaroos. We supposed, on account of this success, that we had outwitted the blacks by our cross course ; for we had reason to suspect that they proceeded a-head of us along our old track, and drove off the emu and kangaroo, as we seldom saw either. We, however, surprised two natives cutting away at an opossum's hole in a tree at some dis- tance to our left ; and on seeing us, they made off with great speed towards the northern bend of the river, and our former route. On reaching our old encampment, we dis- covered new beauty in the plains on the Bogan, when compared with those on the banks of the Darling. There we dreaded plains, the surface being soft and uneven. Here, on the contrary, they delighted the eye with their great levelness, while the firmer surface was no less agree- able to the foot. The grass also had been so cleanly burnt off, that the surface resembled a floor, and although such a piece of perfect level country, extending for miles, was by no means a common feature, it was, perhaps, more striking to * My friend Dr. Lindley considers this one of the most interesting plants brought home by me, and has described it as follows : — Capparis Mitchellii, (Liudl. MSS.) ; stipulis spinosis, foliis obovatis supra gla- bris, pedunculis floi-is solitariis clavatis foliis brevioribus, fructii sphaerico tomcn- toso. A fine specimen of Capparis related to C. Scmdwichiana. 316 new-year's range. [ch. viii. us, on coining from the soft plains, on account of its firmness, neither hoofs nor wlieels leaving any impression upon it. The two men came in with the stray bullock soon after the tents were pitched, and thus our party was again in a state to move forward. One of the men, Robert Whiting, who had been long afflicted with the black scurvy, continued to get weaker daily ; and it seemed very doubtful whether his life could be preserved, until we should reach a station where vegetables might be procured. In other respects, he was as well off as if in an hospital ; the proper medicines were given to him, he was kept warm in a tent, and on the journey he was conveyed in a covered van. He was, how- ever, sinking daily, all his teeth were dropping out — and yet, poor fellow, he had been, when in health, one of the most indefatigable of the party, and had been also with me, on my journey to the northward. He did not look the same man on this occasion, from the first setting out; and it was evident, that he had brought the disease from an ironed gang, where it had been prevalent some time before. Aug. 20. — Following our old route, we crossed the extre- mities of New-Year's range, and at the rocky point, where it was first seen by us, I obtained bearings on it, and several other heights to the westward, which I had seen also from that range. The sky was obscured this morning by a kind of smoky haze, which brought with it a smell of burning grass. It was evident, that either the Macquarie marshes, or some other extensive tract, to the eastward, was on fire, as the wind blew from that quarter. The obscurity continued during the whole of the day, and the smell also. As we crossed the plain, which appeared to Captain Sturt like a " broad and rapid river," the dogs killed an emu, and thus we were now pretty well supplied with fresh meat. We at length encatnpcd, where we first came to the creek, after descending from New-Year's range, having found a good pond there. Au(j. 21. — Early this morning, wc were all awakened by CH. VIII.] FRIENDLY INTERVIEW. 317 the unwonted sound o^ thunder, the first we had heard, after having been 4i months in the interior. The wind had been high during the night, but a dead calm preceded the rumb- ling peals which were first heard, at a great distance. Soon, however, we had the cloud near enough in all its glory, with lightning playing above and about us, until the atmosphere seemed one continued blaze of light; the rain also fell heavily for a short time. At daylight the sky was cloudy, and it seemed that the drought was about to break up ; at least this was the most remarkable change in the weather, which we had met with on the journey ; and as we were doubtful about the state of the ponds of the Bogan, I was well pleased with the prospect of rain. We proceeded to the old camp of May 15, where we again pitched our tents. There was not much rain during the day, but about sunset a heavy cloud, accompanied by thunder and a squall, bi'oke over us. Soon after, the wind lulled, the sky became clear, and in the morning, we found ice on the water ; the atmosphere having resumed its usual serenity. Aug. 22. — Early this morning, the cooys of three natives were heard. On meeting them, they went through the usual formalities ; an old man fixing his eyes on the ground, with due decorum. They could say " budgery ;" and by their I'e- peating this word, they appeared, in our eyes, infinitely less savage than the natives on the Darling. They also plainly alluded to the man wounded with small shot, at the en- counter which took place on our formerly occupying the next camp up the Bogan. We understood them to allude to this event, by their tapping rapidly with the finger over the arm and shoulder ; and then pointing towards the place, where the unfortunate rencontre happened. We had been more than usual on our guard, in returning towards the haunts of a tribe where we had, although unwillingly, done such mischief; but these fellows seemed, by their laughing, to ad- vert to it as a good joke, and we, therefore, concluded that the poor fellow had recovered. They asked for nothing, and 318 BEAUTY OF THE SCENERY. [CH. VIII. on retiring, made signs, that they were going towards the hills, or westward. We travelled towards our former camp of May 14, but the distance being sixteen miles, it was too much for our weak animals. We halted therefore four miles short of it ; and though we turned a mile off the route to the eastward, in search of the Bogan, we did notfind it, until after we had encamped, and then at nearly a mile further to the eastward still. Another man of the party, Johnston, who was I'ather aged, began to shew symptoms of the black scurvy, which made him walk lame. This might be partly attributed to the rancidity of the salt pork, rather than the saltness, as it had been in a great measure spoiled by having been taken out of the proper barrels, and put, without brine, into the water casks, before I joined the party. The two men now afflicted with scurvy, were precisely those who eat this pork most voraciously; and consequently its effect soonest became apparent upon them. Aug. 23. — The weather again quite serene. We continued our march, and passing our former camp of the 14th, reached that of May 13, by two p. m. The ponds, in which we had before found water, were now dried up ; but we fortunately discovered others a little distance higher. At two miles onward from the camp of May 14, we saw bushes o^ acacia pendula for the first time, since we had previously passed that place. The locality of that beautiful shrub is very peculiar, being always near, but never within, the limits of inundations. Never far from hills, yet never upon them. These bushes, blended with a variety of other acacias, and crowned here and there with casuarinaj, form very picturesque groups, es- pecially when relieved with much open ground. Indeed, the beauty of the sylvan scenery on the lower Bogan, may be cited as an exception to the general want of pictorial effect in the woods of New South Wales. The poverty of tiie foliage of the eucalyptus, the prevailing tree, affords little of mass or shadow ; and indeed seldom has that tree, either in the trunk or branches, nnytliing ornamental to landscape. On these CH. VIII.] HOT WINDS. 319 plains, where all surrounding trees and shrubs seemed dif- ferent from those of other countries, the Agrostis virginica of Linngeus, a grass common throughout Asia and America, but new to me in Australia, grew near the scrubs. Here also grows a new species of Eleusine, being a very tall nutritious grass. * Aug. 24, — Retracing still our former steps, we reached a pond on the Bogan, 83 miles short of our camp of May 12. There, I fixed the camp in open ground, and near good grass, with the intention of resting for two days ; this repose having become absolutely necessary, for the purpose of refreshing our exhausted cattle. Aug. 25. — Being near the route of Mr. Hume, when he proceeded westward from Mount Harris, and crossed two creeks, of which the Bogan w^as one ; I was desirous of ascer- taining the source of the other, whose channel he had found, intermediate, between this river and the Macquarie. Being occupied in completing my plans of the Darling, preparatory to my immediate return to the colony, I instructed Mr. Larmer to proceed on a survey of that creek, by tracing from our next camp (that of May 12), on a bearing of 102° E. of N., until he reached it, and then to follow it up. Mr. Larmer took with him five men, and a week's provisions, also a copy of our recent survey of the Bogan, with Mr. Oxley's Mac- quarie ; and I instructed him to rejoin the main party at Cudduldury, the camp where 1 calculated we should arrive, about the probable time of his return. Aug.2Q. — The morning was calm, but about noon a hot wind set in, blowing very strongly from the north-north-west, the thermometer stood at 86°, but by sunset at 80°. I had been sensible of a parching and unseasonable dryness and warmth in the winds, from that quarter, throughout the winter, while farther in the interior ; and it may be inferred, from * E. marginata, (Lindl. MSS.) ; culmo tereti glabro, foliis glabris, ligiil^ nulla, spicis digitatis strictis, spiculis subsexfloris, palea inferiore carinata nui- cronat^ marginata. 320 THE BOGAN TRIBE. [CH. VIII. these hot winds blowing so early in the season, that the drought and the absence of any humidity in the climate, prevailed to a very great extent, over the interior regions. This is, what I should expect to find in the central parts of Australia, from the nature of that portion which I had seen and the state of the weather throughout the winter. An al- most perpetual sun-shine had prevailed, dry cirro-cumulous clouds had arisen indeed sometimes, but no point of the earth's surface, was of sufficient height to attract them, or to arrest their progress in the sky. There seemed neither on the earth nor in the air sufficient humidity to feed a cloud. Dew was very uncommon, the moisture from the one or two slight showers, which did reach the ground, was measured out in this shape upon the vegetation, on the mornings imme- diately succeeding their fall. The hot wind of the Bogan met with no antidote, as in Sydney, where the heat of a similar wind is usually moderated towards evening, by a strong south- west breeze. On the Bogan the wind was oppressively hot during the night, and lulled only towards morning. jiug^ 27.— Our cattle moved on in the morning, apparently much better for the rest, and the grass on which they had fed here. We reached, in good time, a small open plain, distant about two miles from our camp of May 11, and halted close by a pond in the bed of the Bogan. At this point, there were several fires, but the natives had run ofi" on our approach ; at sunset, however, a young man came frankly up to our camp, when we recognized " Talambe," one of those who had accompanied the king of the Bogan. We were all very glad to meet with an old acquaintance, even of this kind and colour ; and although he could only say " budgery," this was something, after the total want of any common terms with the savages we had lately seen ; and really the mild tone of voice, andverydifferentmanner of this native, and others of his tribe, who came up next morning, made us feel comparatively at home, although still not very far from Oxley's Table-land. A Iff/. 28. — Several natives came up with Talambe in the \ CH. VIII.] TOMBS OF MILMERIDIEN. 321 morning, and tliey accompanied us on our route. As we passed a burial-ground, called by tbem " Milmeridien," I rode to examine it, and on reaching the spot, these natives became silent and held down their heads. Nor did their curiosity restrain them from passing on, although I un- folded my sketch-book which they had not seen before, and remained there half an hour, for a purpose of which they could have had no idea. The burying-ground was a fairy-like spot, in the midst of a scrub of drooping acacias. It was extensive, and laid out in walks, which were narrow and smooth, as if intended only for " sprites;" and they meandered in gracefully curved lines, among the heaps of reddish earth, which contrasted finely with the acacias and dark casuaringe around. Others gilt with moss shot far into the recesses of the bush, where slight traces of still more ancient graves, proved the antiquity of these simple but touching records of humanitj'. With all our art, we could do no more for the dead, than these poor savages had done. As we approached Nyingan we crossed a plain, on which we killed a kangaroo, which afforded a seasonable supply, for our stock of pork was nearly exhausted ; and two men were now so ill as to require to be carried in the light covered waggon. We encamped at Nyingan, near a large pond of water. Aug. 29. — One of the bullocks had sunk in the mud while drinking at the pond, and when at length it was drawn out, it was so weak as to be unable to stand. I therefore halted this day, in hopes he would recover before next morning. Our friends, the blacks, had been rather forward during the night, and throughout this day, they lay about my tent point- ing to their empty stomachs, and behaving in a contemptuous manner, although we had given them most of our kangaroo. At length, I determined to send them off, if this could be done, without quarrelling with them. I directed Burnett, to take some men with fixed bayonets, and march in line towards them. This move answered very well, the natives receded to a distance, perfectly understanding our 1 Y 322 FOUR KANGAROOS KILLED. [CH. VIII. object ; but there sat down, and made their fires. Only two came up next morning, again pointing to their stomachs ; but I knew from experience, that to feed them Avas to retain them permanently in our camp, and noAv I did not want them, and had no food to spare. Aug. 30. — The bullock could not be made to rise, and we were, after all, obliged to leave him. When we proceeded the natives remained behind, of course intending to kill and eat the poor animal. This day, in crossing a plain, I saw, with my glass, the head of a kangaroo in the grass at a dis- tance. We ran the dogs towards it, when two got up. One dog, named Nelson, killed the smallest and threw it over his head, all the while keeping his eye on the other, which he immediately pursued and also killed. He then saw and took after a third, a very large forest kangaroo ; and this also he seized and fought with, until Burnett got up to his assistance. About three miles further a fourth kangaroo was seen and killed by the same dog, so that we obtained abundance of fresh provisions for several days. We en- camped in our old position of the 9th of May. In the evening some natives, whom we had formerly seen with the king of the Bogan, came up, with two very timid old men. We gave them some kangaroo, and they behaved very well, retiring to a fire at some distance, in order to cook it, and pass the night. Aug. 31. — We were accompanied in our travels this morning, first by several young natives, and afterwards by a chief who came before us rather ceremoniously, and halted in an open plain, until I went up to him. His costume was rather imposing, consisting of a net-work, which confined his hair into the form of a round cap, having in the front, a plume of white, light feathers; a rather short cloak of opossum skins was di-awn tighlly around his body with one hand, his bonimerengs and waddy ])eing grasped fast in the other. (See PI. 21.) Ae we crossed the large j)lain within the bend of the Bogan, and where its course changes from west to near north, our eyes were refreshed with the sight of a crop of green CH. VIII.] SCARCITY OF WATER. 323 grass, growing in all the hollow parts, some rain having re- cently fallen there. We encamped on our old ground at Walwadyer. Sept. 1. — The natives whom we last met with, and had entertained at our camp, with a view to obtain their assistance in finding water, at the end of this day's journey, took to their heels exactly when the carts started this morn- ing; carrying off with them a little native boy, an orphan, whom we had washed, scrubbed, dressed, and carried on a cart, meaning to take him with us to the colony. We proceeded as far as our next camp, called Bugabada, where, finding some water, I halted, until I could ascertain the distance to the next pool. For this purpose, I sent a party to Cudduldury with directions to meet Mr. Larmer, (who had been instructed to rejoin the party at that place this day), and to let him know, where we were. They returned at sun-set, without having either found water or seen Mr. Lar- mer. As I knew the Bogan was dry for many miles above Cudduldury, I made arrangements for carrying on a supply next day, that we might proceed to some ponds on this river, distant about twenty-five miles. Still it was impossible for the party to reach that point in one day, and the water we could carry would not be enough for our cattle. At nine p. M., however, distant thunder was heard, the sky became overcast and several smart showers fell during the night, thus affording most providentially, a prospect of dew on the followino' nio-ht, which would refresh the horses and bullocks. Sept. 2. — Two natives came towards our camp, having hideous countenances, and being savagely painted with crimson on the abdomen and right shoulder; the nose and cheek-bones were also gules, and some blazing spots were daubed, like drops of gore, on the brow. The most ferocious- looking wore round his brow, the usual band newly whitened. He, like all those more savage natives, had neither a word nor even a smile for us. The other, my men recognized to be Werrajouit, the native who formerly had in his possession, the Y 2 324 MR. LARMEn OVERTAKES THE PARTY. [CH. VIII. handkerchief which was supposed to have belonged to Mr. Cunningham. 1 thought, that if that gentleman had really been sacrificed, some of these fellows had been guilty of his murder ; but we were still uncertain of his fate; and perhaps his life had been saved by some of these very natives, whom the men were now much inclined to seize as his destroyers. A gin and child were brouglit to us, that we might give some clothes to the latter, a practice we had foolishly encouraged at the first interviews ; so that they almost persecuted me with young children, expecting that they should receive some- thing. This gin had an English havresack, and Burnett, by my orders, examined the contents ; but he found nothing- likely to have belonged to Mr. Cunningham, except a piece of cloth. This search was made, after they had disap- pointed us respecting a water-hole, and when the man who had promised to be our guide had decamped. All the ponds in which we had found water before, were dry, nor could we obtain it elsewhere, although Burnett had examined the Bogan to Burdenda. I knew by the result of our former search for Mr. Cunningham, that no water was to be procured down the bed of the river for many miles; and I therefore cut off four miles of this day's route, and continued our journey as far as possible, having provided against a night without water, by carrying as much in barrels as supplied the whole party, and afforded half a gallon to each of the horses and bullocks. We encamped on a grassy plain, about five miles on, in our journey of the ] St of May. Sept. 3. — I sent Burnett and two men forward to examine some ponds, beyond our former camp of the 30th of April, while the rest of the party followed. Mr. Larmer overtook us during this day's journey, having last night been encamped Avith his party only three miles behind us. lie had found in Duck creek, long reaches, like canals, full of excellent water, and covered with wild fowl of every description. On its banks grew large gum-trees, like those on the Darling; CH. VIII.] RESULT OF HIS SURVEY. 325 and he had traced this channel to a large lagoon, near the INIacquarie, the bed of which was found to be quite dry. Many small water-courses led from the Macquarie into Duck creek, which indeed appeared to be the lowest chan- nel of this river, the general fall of the country being to the westward. The identity of the two channels was further established by the quartzose sand found in both. It appears, that a low range of firm ground separates the Bogan from Duck creek, the bed of which, and all the land between it and the Macquarie, consists of an alluvial soil altogether different, according to Mr. Larmer, from any we had seen on the Darlino;. This surface was covered with a luxuriant green crop of grass, a sight which Ave had not enjoyed on this journey, and there were also numerous kangaroos and emus, for whose absence from the plains of the Bogan, we could not previously account. Mr. Larmer's men were still seven miles behind him, and had had no water since they left the Macquarie two days previously, nor much to eat, for they had carried rations for seven days only, and this was the ninth since they quitted the camp. We, therefore, sent back a man with a loaf and a kettle of water, and he met them four miles behind the party. We continued the journey four miles beyond our old camp, to a pond which the overseer had found, and was then tlie nearest water to our former position. To this pond the cattle came on tolerably well, after having travelled fourteen miles, and having passed the previous night almost without water. The party was at length reunited here ; and we had now passed the so much dreaded long dry part of the bed of the Bogan. An old native and a boy, apparently belonging to the Myall tribes, came in the evening, but we could learn nothing from them. They w'ere covered with pieces of blanket, and the man used a Scotch bonnet as a bag. They said they had been to Buckenba where there were five white men. In the bed of the river, where I went this evening to enjoy the sight of the famished cattle drink- 326 TRACES OF MR. CUNNINGHAM, [CH. VIII, ing, I came accidentally on an old footstep of Mr. Cun- ningliam, in the clay, now baked hard by the sun. Four months had elapsed since we had traced his steps, and up to this time, the clay bore these last records of our late fellow-traveller ! Sept. 4. — The old man, with a hideous *' mumping face,'-' again came up, and took his place at one of our fires, having sent the boy on some message, probably to bring others of his tribe, or tell them of our movements. I asked him about Mr. Cunningham, but could only obtain evasive answers, and I thought it best to order him peremp- torily to quit our camp. This I did in loud terms, firing a pistol at the same time over his head. He walked off, how- ever, with a firm step, and with an air which I thought rather dignified under the circumstances. Early this morning, I sent overseer Burnett on before us with three of the party to look for water, leaving the cattle and the men who came in yes- terday to rest until 10 a. m. To-day and yesterday, we once more beheld a sky variegated with good swelling clouds, and enjoyed a fresh bi-eeze from the south-west. The sight even of such a sky was now a novelty to us, and seemed as if we had at last got home. We had, in fact, already ascended five hundred feet above the level of the plains of the interior, and were approaching the mountains. At eleven, we pro- ceeded and struck into oui- old track, where it touched on the Bogan, and we crossed its channel half a mile beyond where we had been encam])ed so long, when looking for Mr. Cun- ningham. On this day's journey, we again intersected his footsteps ; and I could not avoid following them once more to the pond on the Bogan, where he must have first drank water, after a thirst and hunger of four or five days ! There was water still there, though it had shrunk two yards from its former margin ; but not tlie impression of a native's foot ap- peared near it, nor any longer the traces of Mr. Cunningham. I was now about to follow llic Bognn further up in order to make sure of water, and thus to leave our track, with the CH. VIII.] AND OF MR. DIXON. 327 intention of falling into it again, at Cogoorduroy or Cookopie Ponds. We had now passed the scene of Mr. Cunningham's distresses, and I judged that a man on horseback might travel safely along our old route with despatches. We had been about five months shut out from all communication with the colony, and I was eager to avail myself of the first safe op- portunity of sending to the government, a report of our progress. We were still about 120 miles from Buree, a distance which could be travelled over on horseback in three days, and William Baldock, who was in charge of the horses, was very willing to be the courier. The party was to proceed by a new I'oute in the morning, consequently, I had only the night for writing all my letters. Sept. 5. — I sent off my courier at ten a.m., having ordered him positively not to encamp at water-holes, but only to let his horse drink, fill his own horn, and choose his resting- places at a distance from any water. He was also instructed to ask any natives, he might meet with, if they had met the other white fellows, &c. This last being a ruse to prevent the tribes from annoying him, which they were moi'e likely to do when they saw him quite alone. The Doctor and two men were sent forward at an eai'ly hour along the banks of the Bogan, in search of water-holes. We followed in the same direction, crossing to the right bank, at that very pond at the junction of Bullock creek, which saved the lives of the cattle after they had thirsted two days, (April 16). We finally encamped on some good pools, after a journey of seven miles. The " doctor" joined us long after it was dark, and reported that he had found plenty of water all along the bed of the" river as far as he had proceeded, which was about ten miles higher, in a direct line. Near where we encamped, the marks of Mr. Dixon's cattle and horses were very plainly visible, and by their depth we per- ceived how very wet and soft the ground had then been. Sept. 6. — We set forward on a bearing of east-south-east, 328 hervey's range in sight. [ch. vhi. Avhich I took to be the general direction of the Bogan, con- sidering the position of Croker's range on the east, and that of the hills in the south, which I had traced. We travelled through forests of magnificent "pine" trees (callitris pyrami- dalis), and crossing, at twelve miles further, a dry creek, which appeared to be that of Tandogo, we encamped on the Bogan, where there was a good pond of water. This abun- dance was the more acceptable, as we had now left behind a part of the bed of this little river, which for thirty miles was quite dry ; the total want of water there, being chiefly owing to the absorbent nature of the subsoil. We were now drawing towards its sources amongst the hills, and the same scarcity no longer prevailed. The height and girt of some of the callitris trees were very considerable. Thus, we found that Australia contains some extensive forests of a very good substitute for the cedar of the colony {cedrela toona, R. Br.), which is to be found only in some rocky gullies of the Coast range, and is likely to be exhausted in a short time. The acacia pendula adorned the immediate banks of the Bogan, but the grass was old and dry, being a crop of two years' growth ; the cattle consequently did not feed well on it, and at last grew so weak, that they could not be worked more than four hours, and thus our progress was limited to about eight miles a day. Sept. 7. — We followed the bearing of 139^°, as the direc- tion in which we were most likely to find the Bogan, con- sidering its general course and the position of the hills to the southward. After travelling eight miles, a sight of the highest point of Hcrvey's range, enabled me, at once, to de- termine my place on the map. We then proceeded on the bearing of 103°, and made the Bogan at a spot, where its banks were beautiful, and the grass of better quality tban any we had seen for some time. The acacia pendula grew there in company with the pine (or callilris), the casuurlna and eucali/ptits, besides many smaller ti'ees, in gi'aceful ^^roups, the surface being very smootli and park-like. CH.VIir.] APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 329 Sept. 8. — Proceeding in a south-south-east direction, we crossed, at seven miles, a creek, which I took for that of Tandogo, and thereupon turned towards the south-east. After a journey of eleven miles, we encamped about three- quarters of a mile from the Bogan, on a spot where we found excellent grass. We had now arrived where the pas- turage was so much better than any we had seen, that we could not doubt that a greater quantity of rain had fallen here, than in the regions where we had been. The improvement was obvious, not alone in the quality of the grass, but in the birds, the woods, the clouds, and distant horizon, which all bespoke our approach to a more habitable region, than that in which we had so long been wandering. We crossed some fine sloping hills, and found on the Bogan, a rich flat, some- what resembling those tracts of black soil, which are so much prized on some of the larger rivers of the colony. A hot wind blew from the north, and now brought with it smoke and an overcast sky, vvhich in the evening turned to nimbus clouds. A south-west wind, (the usual antidote to the hot winds of Sydney) came in the evening, and some genial showers fell during the night. Sept. 9. — A drizzling rain fell early in the morning, but about mid-day the weather cleared up. We had not proceeded far before I was stopped by the Bogan, the course of which, I found, at length, to come more from the south. 1 had been fortunate in the line, which I had pursued, as the supposed direction of this river, above the part previously surveyed. This was on the bearing of 139^°, and chosen after considering the position of hills and other circumstances relative, and I now found that this line nearly cut through our three last camps, on the river. We were at length to turn southward, and this still appeared to be the main channel, judging by the breadth of the bed, and the long deep ponds of water. Indeed we had no longer any apprehensions about finding water, while travelling along the main channel ; and this day we crossed over ground, well covered with grass. During 330 ARRIVE AT A CATTLE STATION. [CH. VIII. our progress along this unsurveyed part of the Began, we had several times heard the natives and called to them, but they could not be induced to come near us. To-day, how- ever, I saw smoke at a distance, and hastened towards it with Burnett, who succeeded (although the rest of the tribe fled) in intercepting one individual between him and me, who proved to be our old friend Bultje, the very intelligent native who had fonnerly been our guide. The rest of the tribe soon returned, and gathering around us, they all seemed much amused with our relation (and representations) of the conduct of the " Myall blackfellows" on the Darling. They could not afford any explanation of those ceremonies, which appeared to be as strange to them, as they had been to us. The only obser- vation of Bultje, on learning that some of them had been shot, was, '•' Stupid whitefellows ! why did you not bring away the gins ?" We eagerly enquired, whether he knew anything of one white-fellow of ours, who had been lost, but he appeared surprised to hear it. He told us, however, that we were near a cattle station, where two white men had been recently es- tablished, having come from the colony, along our track over the mountains. I hastened towards the dwelling of these white men, and the symmetrical appearance of their stock-yard fence, when it first caught my eye, so long accustomed to the wavy lines of simple nature, looked quite charming as a work of art. Our hearts warmed at the very sight of the smoking chimney ; and on riding up to the hut, I need not say with what pleasure, I recognized two men of our own race. On seeing my pedestrian companions however, armed, feathered, and in rags; these white men were growing whiter, until I l)riefly told them who we were, and that we really were not bushrangers. They said a bushranger, on horseback, had been seen in that country, only a few days before by the natives, at whom ho had fired a pistol, when they had nearly caught him at a water-hole. I was glad to ascertain the fact, even in this shape, that my courier Baldock, whom they of course meant, had got safely so far with my despatches. Cir. VIII.] CERTAINTY OF MR. CUNNINGHAm's DEATH. 331 One of these men having but lately left the settled districts, had seen in the newspapers, an account of one of my party having been killed by natives ; and he stated that the names of four natives and two gins were mentioned, adding that the person murdered, was supposed to have been my man in charge of the sheep. My informant also pointed towards, where the white man was said to have been killed, as indicated by the blacks ; and this was exactly where our distressing loss befell us. I was also informed, that the natives thereabouts were now in dread of the arrival of soldiers, and thus, for the first time, I learned that poor Cunningham, had really been mur- dered by these savages. Intelligence of this kind often travels in exaggerated shapes, through the medium of the natives ; and I had lately been anxious to see some of them, as many of those so near the colony can speak very well. Now we un- derstood why the Bogan was deserted. The non-appearance of the chief, who had been so obsequious on our going down, was perhaps a suspicious circumstance, when connected with the fact, that a silk handkerchief had been seen on the first of that tribe whom we met, and the strange movements and bustle, which took place among those at our camp at Cud- duldury, during my absence of four days. The station, which we had reached, was occupied by the cattle of Mr. Lee, of Bathurst ; the two stockmen, for such the white men proved to be, seemed to have enough to do, to keep the natives in good humour, as the only means of find- ing the cattle or securing their own safety among the savage tribes. With the latter object probably in view, they seemed to have encouraged the expectation of soldiers, on the part of the natives about them. Soldiers have been too seriously instrumental in the civilization of the aborigines, wherever they have become civil, to be soon forgotten ; and the war- fare by which the Bathurst settlers were first established in security, would be remembered, no doubt, with some apprehen- sion of the consequences of this last act of barbarism. The stockmen informed me, that I should meet with another cattle station, which had been established by Mr. Pike, 332 COOKOPIE PONDS. [CII. VIII. Avhere my route crossed " Goobang" creek. The fact, that the stock of the settlers already extends over all available land, within reach of the present limits of loca- tion, is clearly exhibited by the speedy occupation of these two stations. They are placed on the only two good tracts of land, crossed by our party before we reached the arid plains of the interior. Even my boat depot on the Nammoy, the terra incognita made known only by my first despatch, was immediately after occupied as a cattle-run by the stock- keepers of Sir John Jamieson. The Bogan still coming from the south-east, we continued our journey in that directionfor four miles, beyond the cattle station, and then halted. Near this camp, two ] ranches of the Bogan united, and the one which came fi-om the east- ward appeared to contain most water. I calculated that we were within eleven miles of Cookopic ; a pond in our old track, at which we had encamped on the 13th of April, and which bore south-east from this camp. Here we killed our last remaining sheep but one : and it was worthy of remark, that after travelling upwards of 1100 miles, it was found to be fatter and weigh more by two pounds, than any of those which had been previously killed as we proceeded, although the best had been always selected for slaughter. It appears thus how well a wandering and migratory life agrees with sheep in ibis hemisphere, as of old in the other. Ours gave very little trouble, and at length became so tame, that they followed the horses or cattle like dogs. The sheej) were leanest on the Darling, and on their way back their improved appearance was remarkable. Sept. 10. — Accompanied by four natives and a boy, we continued our journey, and as my reckoning, since I deviated from our old route, had been by time only, I allowed a black, named "Old Fashioned," and the boy, to guide us to "Cook- opie." In going south-west, we soon crossed the first creek, and for some way could not proceed on the bearing, which led to the other, as the natives pointed, and which had the best pond? in it. At length, its course came more from the CH. VIII.] GOOBANG CRF.EK. 333 northward, and we travelled on good, open, forest-land, until our guides brought us directly to the very pond of water, beside which we formerly encamped. We had travelled but nine miles, which was two miles less than I reckoned the distance to be, a pleasant discovery in our present case, Avhen even the proposed journey for the day, although short, had appeared too much for the very weak condition of our animals. I had indeed thought of going up the first creek in order to join our route at Coogoorduroy ; but we had now been so fortunate as to gain, by a journey of nine miles, the point which, had we gone round by Coogoorduroy, must have been the end of our second day's journey. We had here the satisfaction of recognizing the track of my courier's horse, tracing our foot-marks homewards at a good fast pace. This pond was nearly dry, the little water re- maining being thick and green. It was more, however, than I expected to find, and it was quite sufficient for our wants. By resting here, it was in my power to reach, by another day's travelling, Goobang creek, where the ponds were deep and clear, and the grass good. This pond of Cookopie appeared to be near the head of a small run of water arising in hills behind " Pagormungor," a trap hill distant only five or six miles along our route homeward. Sept. 11. — This morning Farenheit's thermometer stood at 23°, and the pond was frozen three-quarters of an inch thick. There was, however, so little water left, that only three of the bullocks could be supplied before starting. The natives who had promised to go on with us, nevertheless remained behind ; but we proceeded by our old route to Goobang creek, and encamped on its left bank nearly a mile above, where we had crossed it formerly. Here the grass was superior to any we had seen lower down ; numerous fresh tracks of cattle were visible on the ground, and the water lay deep and clear in ponds, surrounded by reeds. There were no reeds about the water-holes of the Bogan ; and we had, in fact, this day left that river, and reached the sources of the Lachlan, to which stream the Goobang 334 CHARACTER OF THE RIVER BOGAN. [CH. VIII. must sometimes be an important tributary. The ground sepa- rating these waters, which must travel tow^ards the distant channels of such spjicious basins as those of the Lachlan and Darling, consists here only of some low hills of trap-rock, con- nected with gently sloping ridges of mica schist. The country on the Goobang or Lachlan side appears to be the best ; for the grass grows there much more abundantly, and the beds of the streams appear to be much more retentive. All the water, which we had used during five months, belonged to the basin of the Darling, but to-day we again tasted of that from channels which led towards the Lachlan. The chief sources of the Bogan arise in Hervey's range, and also in that much less elevated country, situated between the Lach- lan and the Macquarie. The uniformity of the little river Bogan, from its spring to its junction with the Darling, is very remarkable. In a course of 250 miles, no change is observable in the character of its banks, or the breadth of its bed, neither are the ponds near its source, less numerous or of less magnitude than those, near its junction with the principal stream. Mr. Dixon estimated the velocity of the current at four miles per hour, where its course is most westerly. There are few or no pebbles in its bed, and no reeds grow upon the banks, which are generally sloping, and of naked earth, but marked with lines of flood, similar to those of the Darling. It has often second banks, and, as near that river, a belt of dwarf eucalypti, box, or rough gum, encloses the more stately flooded gum-trees with the shining white bark, which grow on the immediate borders of the river. It has also its plains along the banks, some of them being very extensive ; but the soil of these is not only much firmer, but is also clothed with grass and fringed with a finer variety of trees and bushes, than those of the Darling. Yet in the grasses, there is not such wonderfid variety as I found in those on the banks of that river. Of twenty-six different kinds gathered by me there, I found only four on the Bogan, and not more than four other varieties, through- out the whole course. It appeared, that where land was CH. VIII.] NATIVE INHABITANTS ON ITS BANKS. 335 best and grass most abundant, the latter consisted of one or two kinds only, and, on the contrary, that where the surface was nearly bare, the greatest variety of grasses appeared, as if nature allowed more plants to struggle for existence where fewest were actually thriving. The aborio-inal inhabitants of the banks of the Bogan in- elude several distinct tribes. 1st. Near the head of the river is the tribe of " Bultje," composed of many intelligent natives, who have acquired a tolerable knowledge of our language; the number of this tribe is about 120, One, or in some cases two, of the front teeth of males, is extracted on arriving at the age of 14. 2nd. The next is the Myall tribe, who inhabit the central parts about Cudduldury, at the great bend of the Bogan to the northward. These natives can scarcely speak a word of our language, and they have several curious customs. Some o»f the young men are gaily dressed with feathers, are all called by one name ' Talambe,' and great care is taken of them. The chief and many of the tribe say they have no name, and when any others are asked the names of such persons, they shake their heads, and return no answer. The tribes in various parts of the colony, give the name of Myall to others less civilized than themselves, but these natives seemed to glory in the name, and had it often in their mouths. They were the only natives I ever knew, who ac- knowledged that they were " Myalls ;" and I can say of them, as far as our own intercourse enabled me, that they were the most civil tribe we ever met with. They do not extract the front teeth. 3rd. The Bungan tribe, with whom the one last mentioned made us acquainted, inhabits the Bogan between Cambelego and Mount Hopeless. They are perhaps less subtle and dis- simulating than the Myalls, and if possible more ignorant than they, of our language and persons. Yet the Bungans came forth from their native bush to meet us, with less hesi- tation, observing, at the same time, that downcast formality, which is the surest indication of the natives' respect for the 336 THEIR MODE OF FISHING. [CH. Vllt. Stranger, and ignorance of the manners of white men, especially when accompanied, as in this instance, with an openness of countenance and a frankness of manner, far beyond the arts of dissimulation.* Lower down the Bogan, we saw so little of the inhabitants, that I cannot characterize the tribes, although there appear to be two more, the haunts of one being eastward of New- Year's rano-e, those of the other, to the north of the Pink hills. Both these tribes appeared to be of rather an inoffensive and friendly disposition than otherwise, although quite ignorant of our language. They were terrified at the sight of our cattle, and even still more afraid of the sheep. Unlike the natives on the Darling, these inhabitants of the banks of the Bogan subsist more on the opossum, kangaroo, and emu, than on the fish of their river. Here fishing is left entirely to the gins, but it is performed most effectually and in the simplest manner. A moveable dam of long, twisted dry grass through which water only can pass, is pushed from one end of the pond to the other, and all the fishes are neces- sarily captured. Thus, when at the holes where a tribe had recently been, if my men began to fish, any natives who might be near would laugh most heartily at the hopeless attempt. The gins also gather the large fresh-water muscle, which, abounds in the mud of these holes, lifting the shell out of the mud with their toes. There is a small cichoraceous plant with a yellow flower, named Tdo by the natives, which grows in the grassy places near the river, and on its root, the children chiefly subsist. As soon almost as they can walk, a little wooden shovel is put into their hands, and they learn thus early to pick about the ground for those roots and a few others, or to dig out the larvte of ant- hills. The gins never carry a child in arms as our females do, but always in a skin on the back. The infant is seized by an arm and thrown with little care over the • I have since been informed by an officer, who had been some time in Ca- nada, tliat he noticed, when on sliooting excursions witli the Indians, tir.it th( V observed a somewhat similar siloiiro on meeting with strangers. CH. VIII.] PREPARE TO QUIT THE PARTY. 337 shoulders, when it soon finds its way to its warm birth, holding' by the back of the mother's head, while it slides down into it. These women usually carry besides their chil- dren, thus mounted, bags containing all the things which they and the men possess, consisting of nets for the hair or for catching ducks ; whetstones ; yellow, white, and red ochre ; pins for dressing and drying opossum skins, or for net-making ; small bommerengs and shovels for the chil- dren's amusement ; and often many other things, apparently of little use to them. On this creek, the grass was excellent, and to-day, for the first time, we saw cattle from the colony. As our own re- quired rest, and I wished to examine the state of the equipment, arms, ammunition, and stores, previous to my leaving the party, as 1 now intended soon to do, I deter- mined on halting here for three days, previous to ascend- ing Hervey's range. I also wished to amend that part of our traced line by returning in advance of the party, and marking out a better direction for the ascent of the carts ; and to find out also, if possible, some water, which should be at a convenientdistance, for a day's journey, from the present camp. When, on first advancing, I overlooked this lower country, the sun had nearly set, and I was anxious the expedition should reach the valley, and find water before darkness set in ; the descent from these hei2:hts was thus made without selection, and at a point which happened to be rather too abrupt. To ascend it was a still more difficult labour, now that our cattle were much weaker, and would be also ex- hausted by the fatigue of a long journey. Sept. 12. — I was occupied nearly the whole of this day, in examining the ration accounts, and taking an inventory of the equipment, stores, &c. We had made five months' rations serve the party nearly six months, by a slight alteration of the weights ; this having been thought the best expedient for making our provisions last till the end of the journey, avail- ing myself of the experience of my former travels in the in- terior, when I found that the idea of reduced rations, was disheartening to men when imdergoing fatigue. The sheep 1 z 338 PLAN OP ENCAMPMENT. [CU. vnr, which we took with us as live-stock, liatl answered the jDurpose remarkably well, having, as already stated, rather mended than otherwise during the journey. Their fatness how- ever varied, according to the nature of the countries passed through. They became soon very tame, and the last remain- ing sheep followed the man in charge of it, and bleated after him, when all his woolly companions had disappeared. Tbe two boats mounted on the carriage, were still in a perfect state ; and, although we had not derived much ad- vantage from them, still in no situation, had they appeared a superfluous portion of our equipment. Possessing these, we crossed the low soft plains and dry lagoons of the Darling, without any apprehension of being entirely cut off by floods, while we were always prepared to take advantage of navigable waters, had we found any of that description. The carriage with the boats, mounted on high, and covered with tarpaulin, when placed beside the carts according to our plan of en- campment, formed a sort of field-work, in which we were al- ways ready for defence. We adhered to this, which had been arranged, not less with a view to general convenience, than for defensive purposes. The carts were drawn up in one line, with the wheels close to each other (See the oppo- site wood-cut) ; and parallel to it stood the boat carriage, room being left between them for a line of men. We had thus, at all times, a secure defence against spears and bom- merengs, in case of any general attack. The light waggons and tents were so disposed as to cover the flanks of our " car borne" citadel, keeping in mind other objects also, as shewn on the plan. The two light carts (0) covered one flank, the men's tents (5, 5) the other. These light carts carried the instruments, canteens, trunks, and articles in daily use. Tiie situations of the different fires were regulated also, and only allowed to be made in the places fixed for each. The door of my tent (2) was usually towards the meridian (1), and in observing stars it was desirable that no such light should shine before the sextant glasses, nor any smoke impede the observa- tions. By tlie accompanying plan it will be seen that no CH. VIII.] PLAX OF ENCAMPMENT. 339 light was in the way, while, by these positions, other pur- poses were also answered. The cook's fire (11) was near the light carts. Mr. Larmer's fire and tent -door (3) were placed so as to be in sight of the cook. The men's fire was made oppo- site to the two tents (5, 5), so as to serve for the men of both. The other fire of the men (5) completed a general arrange- ment of fire-light around the boats and carts, so that nothing could approach by night unseen by the people at their fires. One of the heavy carts (7) was sufficient for the carriage of all articles in daily use : it was called the shifting cart, being the only one in the line which required to be loaded and un- loaded at each camp ; the rest contained gunpowder (6), and stores which were issued in rations every Saturday. One great convenience in having such a fixed plan of encampment was, that I could choose a place free from trees, and establish the whole party on the ground by merely pointing out the position for my own tent (2), and how it was to face (1). ^0 o o o OqO 340 MOUNT JUSON. [CH. VITI. No further orders were necessary, and I could thus at once mount my horse and proceed to any distant height, with the certainty of finding the whole canip established, as I in- tended, on my return. In arriving late at night on any spot, and the party having to encamp in the dark, still every one knew where to go, for by constant custom, the arrangement was easily preserved. Thus, anything we wanted, could be found by night or day with equal facility ; and we might be said, in fact, to have lived always in the same camp, although our ground was changed at every halt. A stockman came to our camp, whose station was about six miles further up the creek, in one of the vallies amongst the ranges. He had heard from the natives, that they had killed a " white man, gentleman," as they said, and he added a number of horrible particulars of the alleged murder of Mr. Cunningham by the aborigines, which subsequent ac- counts, however, proved to have been much exaggerated. This day I had recognized Mount Juson, a conical hill where the beacon, which he had erected, while I was engaged at the theodolite, still stood. Mr. Cunningham had requested that I would give to the hill the maiden name of his mother, which I accordingly did. This appeared to me at the time, rather a singular request, and now it seemed still more so, for from his melancholy fate almost immediately after, it proved to be his last. Sept. 13. — Taking forward with me two men, to the first of the two rocky places in our line, which, as already stated, I wished to alter, I found that both acclivities might be avoided, and the road also shortened at least a mile, by taking a more easterly direction up a valley, which led almost entirely through fine open forest land, to our old route. I completed this alteration al>out an hour before sunset. Water was the next desideratum, and I had the good fortune to find also enough of it in a rocky gully, where there was also greener pasturage than any that I had seen during the journey, dis- tant only a quarter of a mile to the northward of my newly ClI. VIII.] GET UPON A ROAD. .'341 marked line. This was the only link wanted to complete the route, which the carts were to follow; and it mav he imao-ined with what satisfaction I lay down for the night, by that water, which relieved me from all further anxiety, respecting- the party I had succeeded in conducting through such a country, during a season of so great drought. Sept. 14. — Having despatched the two men back to the camp, with information and written directions respecting the line to be followed, the plan of encampment, and the water ; I struck again into our old track, by following which, I hoped to reach Buree that night, this being the station whence I first led the expedition, towards the interior. The consciousness of being able, unmolested, to visit even the remotest parts of the landscape around, was now to me a source of high gratification ; but this feeling can be under- stood by those only, who may have wandered as long in the low interior country, under the necessity of being constantly vigilant, on account of the savage natives, and to travel cautiously, with arms for ever at hand. At length, I came upon a dusty road, presenting numerous impressions of the shoes of men and horses; and after having been so long accustomed to view even a solitary, naked foot- mark with interest, the sight of a road marked with shoes, and the associations these traces revived, were worth all the toil of the journey. The numerous conveniences of social life were again at hand, and my compass was no longer re- quired, for this road would lead me on without further care, to the happy abodes of civilized men. On reaching Captain Raine's station at Buree, a native named Sandy, informed me of the melancholy end of poor Cunningham ; the particulars, he described, having been gathered by him from other natives, who were eye-witnesses of the appalling circumstances. A report from the officer of mounted police, whom these natives afterwards guided to the remains of my unfortunate fellow traveller, will be found in the Appendix. 342 ARRIVE AT BATHURST. [CH. VIII. I hastened to Bathurst, and made arrangements for send- ing back a cart and fresh horses, to bring on the sick men of the party, as quickly as possible to the hospital. Whiting, contrary to my expectation, lived to reach it; and he and the other invalids having received every attention from Mr. Biisbvj the Government surgeon, were restored to health in about three weeks after their arrival. .n d^m m to;. ■- '1$ -^ Eucalyptus lackrymosa. 13 arometrical Journal kept during the Journey into the Interior of New South Wales in Winter 1835. o Time of Wind and Heigfit of Height > 1^ Station. THE DAY. AVeaiher. Mer. Column. a above PI A. M. P. ni. the sea. Mar. 7. Paramatta river. 3 Clear. (East.) 30.303 82 Flag -staff. 4 — .134 801 » South of Govt. House. — — 28.162 80 Apr, 6. Plain at Buree. 8i — .786 68 1377.6 Summit Canobolas. n West. 2.5.821 70 4451.6 7. Low range. H — 28.390 83 1815.3 8. Camp Burone Creek. 7 — .786 42 1213.6 Granite on Croker's range. 11 — .4.50 70 1640.7 — Flat part of range. Camp on chain of 2 — .331 84 1821.2 9. ponds falling south. n — .325 59 1698.3 Station 4 of survey. 10 — .087 75 2006.8 Scrubby range. IH — 27.948 78 2160.2 10. Camp in valley. 11 — 28.838 79 1M4.3 11. Bed of Goobaug creek. 4 Cirrocumuli. .726 87 l.S56.(> 12. Summit station 7. 1 Ditto. 27.944 86 20^1.6 13. Camp Burranbil. 8 Calm and clear. 28.908 50 1149.1 First rise N. W. of it. 8i — .950 5S 1184.0 Second ditto. 9 — .976 70 1188.1 Bed of Goobang creek. n — 29.011 76 1179.1 ~^j— Flat f mile beyond crk. 9| — 28.986 77 1205.3 Flat at cracks and dry water-hole. 101 — .996 74 1170.3 On hill. Station 8. 11 — .968 81 1 226.7 Trap rocks. 11-J — 29.033 78 1 154.3 Low forest ridge falling steep to the northward. 111 — 28.956 82 1233.5 Conarabula. h \V. Cirrocumuli. .966 85 1219.6 Cookopie ponds. 4| Calm, clear. 29.212 82'- 1031.0 14. Abreast of Goonigal plains. 9^ Clear. N. W. .444 75 854.1 , Open forest. 11 — S. W. .455 80 869.3 — S. edge of plain. 1 — s. w. .410 84 914.2 — Bank of Tandogo crk. 4 Calm, clear. .382 83 928.9 16. Uo. at camp. 8 — .344 5.T 652.3 17. Camp on elevated flat. ^h — .2.56 50 6"J6.<) FlatW.side of Bene rks. 101 Clear. Wind S.W. .292 79 693.7 Bed of dry creek. 1 — N.W. .3^8 851 659.8 Acacia flat. 4 Calm. .300 89 710.3 18. Undulating ground near Bogan. 3 Clear. Wind S.W. .250 781 709.1 , Bed of Bogan river. 4| — .261 74 683.5 May 1 . Vnd camp Bogan. 10 Clear. S. .688 64 532.5 2. 3rd camp. 11 — .733 601 491.3 6. 4th camp. 9 — .666 53 454.4 Dth camp (Bugabada). 1 Clear. N. W. .700 77 477.7 7. 6th (Walwadyir). 1 — W. .753 76 394.3 8. 7 th ( jM urrebouga). Hi — N. .700 80 515.1 9. 8th ( Uorobal). 1 2 Cloudv. S. VV. .594 78 486.4 10. 9th (Nyingan). i — ■ E. .6i:7 74 5244 11. lOth (Canbelego). 4 — W. .476 74 4.5e..(» 12. 11th on Bogan. 3 Clear. W. .549 69 379.0 13. 12th do. 3i — S. .736 761 352.8 13. 14th do. 4 — strong S. .892 77 450.2 At tents near do. — .858 72 464.8 17. Low range S. of New- Year's range. 9 E ast. .950 67 305.5 Bed of the Bogan. S.E. of New- Year's range. U Calm. 30.076 80 427.8 18. Do. below granitic part. 5 S. W. .006 74 .375.0 19. Next camp. H Clear. .062 831 232.2 21. Plain at Camp 1 mile S. of Bogan, E. ol Oxlcy'!* Table land. 8> Cloudy. .054 58 344.6 344 Barometrical Journal continued. o 1 Tim I or Wind and Height of H Hoi^l.l > bXATIO.V. ' FHE DAY. 1 Weather. Mer. Column. a above .\. M. p. M. the $ca. May 22. Bogan N. E.of Oxley's Table-land. i Hazy. 30.142 86 297.9 23. Bogan Do. south. 2 — — .204 92 253.6 24 Plain on Bogan, Ox- lev's T.-L. S.S.E. 8 Clear. Wind E. .185 55i 368.4 25. The Darling lat, 3002' S. long. 1460E. lOi — N.E. .176 80i 241.9 — Camp overlooking Bo- gan, Oxley's T.-L. bearing 125°. 2i — N. .034 88 308.8 27 River Darling at depot. 3 Cloudy S. 29.910 78 216.3 — Hill at depot. 3J — — .864 781 258.1 28. Darling as above. 2 Clear. — .960 ^H 204.7 Hill of depot ditto. n — . — .9'JO 771 250.7 29. Darling as above. 8i — E 30.116 54 145.2 Depot hill do. — — .081 621 198.2 30. Do. do. 1 Hazy, calm. .040 76 '.289.2 Darling as above. li — — .081 691 232. 1 31. Hill depot do. 2 Clear N. W. 29.833 7y 286.7 June 2. Darling, lat. 30ol6'30" 7 — S. W. 30.003 40 136.0 7. Hill depot. 8 — W.N.W 29.795 50 24.7 8. Plain at 4m. 58 ch. 11? — S. W. .8:^4 1 17.0 __ Hollow polygonum at 5 ni. 66 ch. Ill — — .840 6bl 7.5 Water -course (6m. 47c. I 4 — — .838 67 23.5 9. Bed Darling, lat 30o 23' 4". 8 — Calm. 30.098 3b 71.2 11 Plain S.ofCataractlm ^h — — 29.726 *36i 300.7 Darling at Cataract. n — — 30.009 *68 ei.5 J 2. Camp, extremity Dun- lop's range. 7h — Wd. high. 29.744 *.54 431.2 17. Camp 30" 58', 2 m. from river. 10 — N. .834 69 199.2 — Route 4 m. 3 1 ch. plain. 1 Cloudy. N. W. .732 681 292.iJ 18. Camp near Darling (30 feet above its bed). 8 Clear. W. .782 30 85.0 . 19 Camp near Darling (about 70 ft. above its surface). 8 Rain, hazy. S.W. .941 441 60.9 20. Hill extremity, low ridge red sand, 4 m. 37 ch. in route 28th. ll.i Clear. S. E. 30.192 62> 179.3 River Darling. ;■) — s. w. .194 60^ 178.8 21. On route 3 m. 59 ch. 11 — E. .204 62 278.8 22. Camp J m. E. of river Calm. (Refraction 41 50 feet down. 8 seen). .122 2503 — Extensive plain where I observed the eleva- 1 Cloudy calm S.W. tion of range, S. (a) .094 661 324.3 23. Low range (red earth) S. camp. 10 Clear. S.S.E. .193 59 108.0 24. Camp i m. from Dar- ling on small rising ground. 9 — !S.W. .200 48 4.7 Mill S. near camp. 4 Cloudy. S. .164 .58i 53.5 25. River Darling. 3i - S.W. .234 64 3.3 July 2. Ciimp on plains 4 ni. from river. 11 Hazy. — .228 67 69.6 Darling 4 m. VV.S.W. ti Clear. — .208 60\ 52.8 4. Darling S.W. cam]). 4 - S. .186 6\l 127.2 Camp 1 m. N.E. ditto. 5 — Calm. .142 60 16<;.0 I'. Lagoon near camp. 3 Calm. S, .035 79 136.1 12. Furthest camp near R. Darling — Small hill. 9 Clear. W. .020 55 107.5 Tlii-5C (liiTc ohsi rviilidii^ were mail \\\\i\\ (lie li.trniiicler was onl of order Range of the Thermometer and Journal of the Weather in the Interior of Australia, between April 1th and September \2th, 1835, as observed by 3Ir. James Larmer, ivhen with the Exploring Expedition. Date. H en (5 o o < Wind. Weathek. z s ^ z c CO 44 m i. April 7. 88 73 \V. Light. Clear. — 8. 44 89 73 S.W. Light. Clear. — . 9. 44 86 74 AV. Light. Clear. — 10. b7 87 76 N. Light. Clear. — 11. 56 85 77 10N.E.3. S.W. Curl cloud. — 12. 52 Qt 73 S.W. Light. Curl cloud. — 13. 45 82 71 S. W. Light. Clear. — 14. 56 90 74 S. W. Light. Clear. — 15. 48 77 76 S.W. Light. Clear. — 16. 49 81 79 S.E. Light. Clear, — 17. 50 82 72 S.E. Light. Clear, — 18. 47 80 69 S. S.W. Strong. Clear. — 19. 44 74 62 S. Strong. Clear. — 20. 42 78 64 N.E. Light. Clear. — 21. 42 80 64 S.W. Light. 3 Cumuli. Light Showers. Night, — 22. 44 80 66 S. Light. Clear. — 23. 44 82 67 1 N.E. 2 S.W. Curl. — 24. 43 81 70 1 N. 2 S.W. Strong. Curl. — 25. 43 58 55 W. Light. Clear. — 26. 36 66 44 1 Calm. 2 S.W. 3 Calm. 1 Cirrus. 2 Clear. — 27. 44 67 50 1 Calm. 2 S.W. 3 Calm. Cirro Stratus. — 28. 33 64 55 1 E. 2 S. 1 Cirrus. 2 Clear. — 29. 38 59 67 IN.E. 2S. Cirro Stratus. — 30. 28 69 60 2 S.E. 3 S.W. Cirro Stratus. May 1. 34 67 61 S.W. Clear. — 2. 27 68 60 1 Calm. 2 S.W, Clear. — 3. 20 61 55 2,7 1 S.E. 4 Calm. Cirro Stratus. — 4. 19 65 56 37 12 W. 3 N.W. Cirro Stratus. — 5. 38 57 53 36 11 S.W. Clear. — 6. 25 62 52 36 low. 12 S.E. 3W. Clear. — 7. 26 64 55 42 12 Calm. 3 S.W. Clear. — 8. 27 68 63 45 12 Calm. 1 N.W. 4 Calm. Clear. — 9. 30 66 54 48 10 S.W. 2 W.S.W. Cirro Cumuli. — 10. 26 57 48 39 11 N.E. 12 N. Clear. — 11. 35 70 63 54 9 N.W. 4 Calm. 6 S.W. Cirro Cumuli. Showers. Night. — 12. 38 58 43 10 N.W. 5 Calm. Cirro Stratus. — 13. 28 68 57 44 12 N.W. 2 N. Light. Clear. — 14. 31 71 58 41 12 Calm. 1 N.W. Clear. — 15. 33 70 61 50 10 S. 5 Calm. Cirro Stratus — 16. 44 67 65 45 9 S.E. 12 S.W. Cirro Stratus, — 17. 34 68 58 45 10 N.E. 3 Calm. Clear. — 18. 30 68 58 45 11 S.W. Clear. — 19. 30 68 60 39 S. E. Cirro Cumuli Night, — 20. 35 73 60 44 9 N.W. 1 N.E. Cirro Stratus. — 21. 43 77 66 56 W.N.W. Curl clijud. — 22. 39 77 68 52 9 N.W. Cumuli. — 23. 39 83 67 52 3 S.W. Clear. — 24. 44 82 68 56 8 E.N.E. 4 Calm, Clear. 346 Range of the Thermometer andJournal of the Weather. r* s Date e5 5 3 < AViND. Weather. z ^ 03 c IS CO r.| May 25. 47 79 70 56 9 N.N.E. 4 Calm. Clear. — 26. 56 82 76 62 9 n.n.p:. 2 N.VV. Cirro Cumuli. — 27. 58 80 68 54 S.VV. Strong. Cirro Cumuli. 1 1 a.m. Rain. — 28. 34 70 60 52 10 S.VV. Clear. — 29. 34 65 59 45 10 S.W, Clear. — 30. 35 67 58 44 Calm. Cirro Stratus. — 31. 36 68 60 45 9 N.W. 4 Calm. Clear. June 1. 37 58 54 43 S. Clear. — 2. 32 54 52 41 10 s.v/. Cirro Cumuli. — 3. 32 70 51 40 11 S.W. Light Cirro Cumuli. — 4. 26 66 53 40 10 S.W. Light. Cirro Cumuli. — 5. 26 65 55 41 10 S.W. 2 Calm. Light. Clear. — 6. 25 63 61 47 12 N.W. 2 Calm. Light. Clear. — 7. 33 71 67 60 10 N.W.W. Strong. Clear. — 8. 41 61 58 42 9 W. 10 S.W. Cirro Cumuli. — 9. 1 26 66 60 34 12 N.W. 3 S.W. Light. Clear. — 10. 24 70 62 50 12 N.W. Light. Clear. — 11. 25 71 60 51 9 W. Light. JO p.m. Squally. Clear. — 12. 49 60 58 53 S.W. 4 Calm. Cirro Cumuli. Light Showers. — 13. 40 62 58 57 S.W. Strong. Cirro Cumuli. — 14. 49 68 56 42 S. Cumuli. 1 Clear. — 15. 28 59 53 41 S. Light. Clear. — 16. 24 64 63 46 N.E. 3 W. Clear. — i7. 38 64 63 50 9 N.VV. Cumuli. 5 p.m. Rain. Light. — 18. 36 56 52 40 8 S.W. 2 S.S.W. Cirro Cumuli. — 19. 34 48 47 47 S. foggy. 1 Clear. — 20. 40 55 52 48 10 S.E. 5 Calm. Cirro Cumuli. — 21. 25 62 51 38 10 S.E. Light. Cirro Cumuli. — 22. 30 66 53 50 11 N.E. IS.W. Cirro Cumuli. — 23. 32 62 52 42 9 S.W. 5 Calm. Clear. — 24. 30 61 52 46 11 S.W. 5 Calm. Cirro Cumuli. — 25. 29 62 56 47 10 S.W. 4 Calm. Cirro Cumuli. — "iG. 30 60 54 1 44 8 S.W. 5 Calm. Clear. — 27. 29 58 53 40 S. Cirro Cumuli. — 28. 26 66 56 47 10 N.VV. 4 Calm. Cirro Cumuli. — 29. 21 68 63 42 9 N. Light. Clear. — 30. 30 66 62 42 2 W..'^.VV.5Calm. Clear. July 1. 27 69 59 38 11 S.VV. 4 Cairo. Clear. — 2. 42 58 52 37 8 S.W. Strong. 6 Cumuli. 8 Clear. — 3. 25 53 50 38 9 S. 5 Calm. Clear. — 4. 29 62 56 42 10 N.E. 12 S.E. 7 Cumuli. 10 Clear. — 5. 35 58 54 38 8 S. 5 Calm. Clear. — 6. 27 58 52 44 8 S.E. Clear. 3 Cumuli. — 7. 37 54 51 43 Calm. Cirro Stratus. — H. 42 64 52 40 Culm. 7 C:umuli. 9 Clear. — 9. 45 66 62 50 8 ISJ.M.E. 11 W. Light. Cirro Cumuli. Sliower.s at right. — 10. 43 61 51 35 10 W.N.VV. Cirro Cumuli. 11 Clear. — 11. 31 62 53 47 7 N.VV. Strong. Clear. — 12. 34 66 58 41 \V. Strong. (Hear. — 13. 3« 48 46 3ft 7 VV. r> Cumuli. 9 Shower.s. — 14. 38 54 51 49 8 S.VV. 2 S.E. Cirro Cumuli, (i Rair. — 15. 41 63 54 46 Calm. Clear. — 16. 30 66 50 39 Calm. Clear. — 17. 33 58 58 50 N. Light. Cirrus. — 10. 34 71 61 62 N.N.E. Light. Cirri) Stratus. — 19. 52 72 65 56 N.N.E. Strong, Cumuli. Showers M^ht. Range of the Thermometer and Journal of the Weather. 347 Date. P5 K/l 'Julv20. — 21. — 2^. — 23. — 24. — 23. — 26. — 27. — 28. — 29. — 30. — 31. Aug. 1. — 4. — 5. — 6. — 7. — 8. — 9. — 10. — 11. — 12. — 13. — 14. — Id. — 16. — 17. — 18. — 19. — 20. — 21. — 22. — 23. — 24. — 25. — 26. — 27. — 28. — 29. — 30. — 31. Sept. 1. — 2. —— 3. — 4. — 5. — 6. — 7. — 8. — 9. — 10. — 11. — 12. 34 42 40 22 24 23 33 39 29 S3 26 41 57 43 37 S7 35 37 42 56 43 32 34 25 45 32 39 44 42 27 40 38 55 35 35 31 34 44 46 40 38 34 32 32 31 27 47 32 26 30 31 46 26 23 28 "4. O o 65 51 53 62 58 66 62 60 63 61 66 68 75 70 75 76 75 80 85 69 65 64 65 66 62 73 74 64 65 65 66 68 62 68 72 70 76 86 75 70 65 63 63 69 63 62 6D 63 70 70 73 60 59 63 68 (/3 C« 58 48 50 51 50 57 59 58 56 57 38 64 68 63 67 66 68 73 75 61 58 58 58 39 62 64 64 39 60 60 59 67 58 58 68 67 76 80 54 56 55 52 53 66 56 54 58 54 59 51 68 47 48 51 48 Wind. 56 43 39 35 35 38 39 40 41 41 36 59 61 54 48 43 48 51 68 48 41 48 37 39 32 40 51 56 42 36 49 54 49 43 44 43 44 69 50 50 40 41 41 63 44 44 42 41 48 42 54 47 36 35 35 N.VV. Strong. S.W. Strong. S.W. Strong. S.W. Strong. S.E. Light. E. Light. N.W. S.W. Strong. S.W. S.W. 11 Strong. 11 W. Light. N.N.W. Strong, tow. Strong. 10 S.E. Light. 10 N. 3 Calm. 9 N.E. 4 Calm. 10 N.E. Light. 11 N. 3 Calm. 11 N.W. 3 Calm. S.E. 9 S.E. 12 Calm. 10 S.E. 5 Calm. 10 S.S.E. 3 Calm. Calm. 8 S. 11 S.W. 9 S.W. 1 N.W. 3 Calm. 10 W.N.W. 7 W. Strong. 8 S.S.W. Strong. 8 S.S.W. 10 S.E. 3 Calm, 9 E. 4 Calm. 8 N.E. 2 E.N.E. E.N.E. Strong. 5 S.S.E. Wkather. 8 S.S.E. Light. 3 Calm. 9 S. Strong. 6 Calm. 11 S.W. Strong. 5 Calm. 11 N.E. Squally, 6 Calm. Till 11 calm. 12N.W. Str. Clm.l2 W.S.W.str. Ev.clm. Clm. 12 W.S.W.str. Ev.clm. Clm. 12 W.S.W. str. Ev.clm. Clm. 12 W.S.W.str. Ev.clm. Clm. 12 N.W. At 1 calm. 12N.N.W.Suns.N.W.10W. Till 12 N.W. Sunset S.S.W. Till 12 N.W. Evening N.E. Cumuli. S.W. S.W. at 12. 12 W.S.W. At 12 p.m. calm. At 12 N.E. Sunset calm. 8 N. 6 E. 12 N.W. High evg. S.W. At 8 W. Evening calm. W. till evg., then E. (light.) At 12 W. Clear. 3 Cumuli. Rain Night. Cumuli. Light showers. Cumuli Rain. 11 Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. 7 Cirrus. 11 Clear. Cirro Stratus. 10 Clear. Clear. Cirro Cumuli. Clear. Cirro Stratus. Showers Night. 7 Cumuli. 11 Clear. 4 Cumuli. Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Cirro Stratus. Cirro Stratus. 12 Cirrus. 1 Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Cirro Cumuli. 5 a.m. Rain. 10 Fair. Clear. 6 Cumuli. 5 Clear. Cirro Cumuli. Cirro Cumuli. Clear. Clear. Clear. 11 Cumuli. Cumuli. 4 a.m. Rain and Thunder. 7 p.m. Rain and Thunder. Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Clear. Cumuli. Clear. Morning Cirro Cumuli. Evg.CIear. Showers. Clear. Clear. Cumulo Stratus. Cirro Cumuli. Clear. Clear. Cirro Cumuli. Evening Nimbus. Nimbus. Rain. Clear. Clear. Clear. Evening Cumuli. APPENDIX. 352 APPENDIX. except that the Coronation was positively to take place on the 8tli of September. If you have any thing to send to Head Quarters the hearer will bring it for you. Believe me, my dear Major, With the most sincere wishes for your success, veiy truly yours, (Signed) J. D. Forbes. Barber was retaken, but his gin or native wife who had facilitated his escape, then proceeded, as is supposed, to the tribes beyond Liverpool range. He was conveyed to the hulks at Sydney, and having been tried and condemned, his sentence was finally commuted to banishment to Norfolk Island, where he remained from 1832 to 1835. He was then sent to Sydney with a party of expirees (or prisoners, whose sentences of banishment to that island had expired.) The Commandant of Norfolk Island had then reported to the Governor of New South Wales that amongst these ex- pirees was " a man named George Clarke, who, according to private information lie had received, intended some injury to Major Mitchell." This was communicated to me, and I at length recollected that this might be George the Barber, whose life I had been in some degree the means of sparing. He wrote me a letter, couched in the most grateful terms, and in which he offered to accompany me, if permitted, on my expedition into the interior (in 1835), and which proposal I was inclined to accept, and indeed made application through Colonel Snodgrass for this man, as one of my party, but Sir Richard Bourke appreciated his offer much more judiciously, as events proved, and sent Barber to Van Dieinen's Land, where he was soon after hanged. He was undoubtedly a man of remarkable character, and far before his fellows in talents and cunning ; a man who, in short, under favourable circumstajices, might have organized the scattered natives into formidable bands of marauders. APPENDIX. 'i-')'3 No. II. Bathurst, December 7, 183.j. Sir, I have the honour to state, that in conforming with the instructions contained in the Colonial Secretary's letter of the 16th of October, together with your orders directing me to proceed to the interior for the purpose of ascertaining the fate of Mr. Cunningham, I proceeded with the party on the 24th of October for Buree, which place I left on the 29th, accom- panied by Sandy (the black native mentioned in my instruc- tions.) On the 2nd November I fortunately met with two blacks who knew the particulars of a white man having been murdered on the Bogan, also the names and persons of the perpetrators of the deed ; they likewise offered to accompany the police to where the tribe to which the murderers be- longed were encamped ; I accordingly took them as guides, and on the evening of the 6th they informed me they could see the smoke from fires of the Myall blacks — on the bor- ders of a lake called Budda. On arriving on the banks of the lake, we found a tribe encamped, consisting of upwards of 40 men, women and children, all of whom we succeeded in making prisoners, without any resistance on their part. Having questioned them as to the murder of a white man, they acknowledged to one having been killed on the Bogan by four of their tribe, three of whom they delivered up, the fourth they stated was absent on the Big river. On searching the bags of the tribe we found a knife, a glove, and part of a cigar case, which the three blacks acknowledged they had taken from the white man, and which Muirhead* said he was sure belonged to Mr. Cunningham. The three murderers, whose names are Wongadgery, Bo- * Muirhead was one of my men, who, with Baldock, was sent with this officer. 1 2 A 6 0 2 i 9 THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY This book is DUE on the last date stamped below IE T Ti LO-URi JUL 2 0 1985 Form L-0 2om-2, '43(5203) 1975 UNIVERSITi ui Ui\L,ir UKINIA AT LOS ANGELES LIBRARY JL. ouumtniM htblUNAL LIBHAHY FACILIT AA 000 243 495 /.: i PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOOK CARD ESI I-ilBRARYo. 09 ml University Research Library a 22