D 349 Naar 7 | . | 4 val + ae | CANANDAIGUA Sy Se ee no ee neo On ae NR ne a nS OE SEE i DR. A. G. COLEMAN, “ans. Oldest-Established Office in Canandaigua, — VER TEN YEARS’ EXPERIENCE in administering Chloro- form and Gas. Remember, Dr. CoLEMAN was the first to in- troduce Laughing gas in this place, and will guarantec no ill effects resulting from his administering the same. He is the only Dentist in the county (with one exception,) who has the right to apply Fousom’s PATENT in making Artificial Plates. Trseru FILLED in the most approved manner. ‘“AcL ‘Work furry ‘GuaRANTEED. Bee OFFICE ON GORHAM STREET, Directly North of the Court House. eae cklacwed MOST {7 bib Ie 4 TOM ro RAISING, COMMON GARDE} Te} FROM FIFTEEN YEARS PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. BY Fat Fe ACE TAYLOR, CANAND a We OY. 1870. | Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by Horacg geese OR, ith the Clerk’s O1tice of the District Court for the Northern Dist. of N. INTRODUCTION: ELECTING a name for our pamphlet, we eall it, “Tomato Raising in Common Gardens,” because there has been our experience, and not in the field culture; and because that, through the comb cardens of the common people, the masses are to be benefited by our experience, if ati all. About fifteen years personal experience and observation in raising tomatoes, Nave Murmisned mic tle praveival hiv wledge tipor the subject, which T intend—Providence permitting—to communicate Mm this pamphlet, for the benefit of the common people who wish to raise their own tomatoes. J think we may safely say, that in ordinarily favorable seasons, any family who has a half-rod of good ground—and in many instances less—miay raise as many good tomatoes as they want for family use, and have them ripe by the first of August, in this latitude, by observing the following direcTions. (They have not failed our family, once in fifteen years.) We have been led to present these pages to the public, from the fact that there are very few common gardens that have much ripe fruit before September. And then, if, as is somctimes the case, the weather be backward and cold, but little fruit ripens before October,—and then but little escapes the frost. We propose to tell the people how to raise good, ripe tomatoes early, and have plenty until frost comes, and a month or two later, if they wish it. We are aware that some people do not need our inform- ation, and others will not heed it. But to those who need it, and will heed it, these pages are respectfully com- mended fo ee Canandaigua, March, 1870. TOR SALE—In their appropriate seasons, in small quantities, but of good quality, Tomaro SmEeps, Tomato PLANTS, EARLY RreE ToMAtos, and CANNED ToMATOs. LOCK REPAIRING—In all its branches, after 25 years’ suc- cessful practice; By Horack Taytor, Canandaigua, N. Y. Also, Umbrella and Parasol Repairing, in the same shop. Work done upon the principle of the ‘“‘ Golden Rule.” TOMATO RAISING. SEEDS. ar tOVIDE yourselves, if you are not already ))” supplied, with the best you can obtain from reliable persons. My practice is to get some new seeds or plants every year, or what is supposed to be new, though it does not alw ays prove to be new or better, My chief reliance is to raise seeds and plants of my own that I know to be good. Being provided with seed, take some leisure moment, and separate your seeds, one from another entirely, if they are not already so, so that each seed can be planted sepa- rately, and each plant can stand and grow, and be taken up separately. PLANTING comes next in order, if your soil is prepared. If you plant in boxes, have a box three or four inches deep in- side, filled w ith good rich light soil.—Raisin boxes are very suitable. Plant each seed by itself, three-fourths of an inch, or so, deep, and seeds from one to two inches apart, according to the size of your box, or the number of plants you want. March is early enough to plant. Keep your box ina comfortably warm room ; water as it needs; give it what sun-hght you can, and keep it from the frost, especially after the plants are up. After the plants are large enough, if you have a hot- bed, or a warm bed in the garden where your plants can be protected from the frost, TRANSPLANT them there, and. give them good care. If you have no place provided, and do not provide one, keep them longer in the box, setting them out doors warm days, and bring- ing them in nights, until the weather is warm enough to put them in your g carden. But if you have early plants, and want early fruit, you had better by all means provide a place that you can cover with glass, and thus bave the heat of the sun without the cold air; and nights if need be, cover with old blankets or something sufticient to protect from the frost. 4 TOMATO RAISING This you, can easily do, when your plants stand sepa- rately, a good distance apart. And_ standing thus, your plants will be enough better to pay. At each transplant- ing, set the plant in aie soil as deep as it was before, or a little more. And the last time, leave it nearly or quite up to the first set of leaves. SUN-SIDE. After your first transplanting, (and at the first if your plants be of much size,) keep the same side of the plant towards the sun, or south, every time you change’ their situation, especially: at your last transplanting. At every transplanting, take up soil around the roots, so as not to disturb their growth. HOT-BED. If instead of planting in a box, you first plant in a hot- bed, make the bed as soon after the middle of March as you can, and plant the first warm day afterwards, when there is no wind to blow your seed away. Or if need be, if you are planting only for your own family use, you will want so few that it will be no great task, to take each seed by itself and put it where you want it, irrespective of the wind. Those who are accustomed to make hot-beds, and to raise plants to sell, have their own way of doing it all, and perhaps better than mine ; and I shall not attempt to teach them. But about planting seeds separately, when the wind does not blow, it can be done easily, and tolerably fast. PLANTING BOARD. Have a small board, hike a piece of siding, smooth on one side, and thin on one edge, with notches cut on this thin edge, just the distance apart which you want to plant your seed. Lay a few seeds along on the board, lay the board down so that the notches will be directly over a little furrow previously made, into which you want to plant your seed; then with one finger on one seed, carefully slide it into one of the notches, and so on, till one row is dropped or seeded. Then laying this planting board aside, with another somewhat similar, except having no notches, cover the furrow into which seed is dropped, and by this act make another furrow for the next row. Then replace the board with seed on it, and drop again as before, and soon. If the wind blows too hard for this operation, ad- journ awhile, or do as we just recommended irrespective of the wind. IN COMMON GARDENS. 5 Those who have hot beds merely for their own use, if they are not too hot, and have a good depth of soil above the manure, and space enough above that, for plants to grow large; will do well to keep their plants in there, standing a good distance apart, until they are quite large, and the cold weather is past. Then transplant them without disturbing the roots, and you have plants that are plants, and with proper care thereafter, you will have fruit that is fruit. PLANTING IN OPEN GARDEN. But those who do not plant in boxes, or in hot-beds, can in a favorable season, plant in the open garden where the soil and location are right, and by protecting against frosts, and by thorough training and trimming, may raise some good tomatoes. But to make it sure, you want early plants, started in boxes, or hot-beds, or warm beds. If you have no hot-bed, the next best is, A WARM BED. Make this like a hot-bed, with this exception. That you have but little manure in it. Bank around it, and have a glass over it, and guard against the frost.— For some persons, and on some accounts, it is better than a hot-bed. AIRING. But warm beds, and more especially hot-beds, should be opened some, in a hot day, and closed tight in a cold night. In the forenoon before they scorch, and in the afternoon before they chill. PLANTS, Those who do not raise their own plants, should get the best they can from the most reliable persons.—Not the’ most ieable persons.—I bought some plants at a high price, from one of those dieable persons, who warranted the tomatoes to ripen in June. They did not ripen till August, so I thought they were Jieable enough, and I ealied them June hes. But they were on sods, and it took two or three weeks for them to get started. PLANTS ON SODS. Sods are convenient for carrying plants to market, ete. But they have little depth, and the roots in them can have no more. They generally hinder the growth of plants, and sometimes very materially. For the sods must be i) TOMATO RAISLNG broken enough to free the roots, and thereby injure them more or less: or else if the Soda: are left undisturbed, they will confine ard cramp the roots, for weeks. There is no other alternative. Therefore it is much bet- ter if you can have good plants, w ell taken up with the soil around the roots, fresh from the garden, or in boxes or pots, without any sods. CHOOSING PLANTS. Choose not from the highth or tallness of the plant, but from the number of sets of leaves which they have, and their general stocky and thrifty appearance. Good plants have their fruit stems, about the fifth or sixth set of leaves. The fruit stems can always be distinguished by the buds. Plants set out in the open garden before the weather is warm, are very likely to be injured by the SPRING FROSTS, unless well covered; and if covered, unless with glass, they will not grow ar Therefore ‘wood plants set nae a little later, will do as well or better. ei BROAD CAST sowing of seed, may be practiced when one wants a great number of very slender plants, or when he cannot or will not take time and pains to have better ones. I do not recommend this plan. But if you do sow in this man- ner, the ae should be pulled up carefully some rainy day, and set out singly, until they are large enough for permanent transplanting. Before any permanent trans. planting, there should be a thorough PREPARATION OF SOIL. If the soil is not already right, make it rich, deep and light, in as warm and sunny location as practicable. _ When the weather and plants and soil are all ready, make our y PERMANENT TRANSPLANTING. If the soil is right, the roots will find their way down- | wards, without burying the stalk as some people do, be- } cause their plants are too feeble to stand up. Better have plants that can stand up, and then set them low,—not be- | low the first set of leaves,—and the ground around them being full as low as the ‘level of the garden or lower, it | will not require as much hilling up, and will much better retain the rain that falls on it, “and the water put on it in IN COMMON GARDENS. 7 dry weather. But something depends on the wetness or dryness of the soil, ete. TIME OF TRANSPLANTING. I prefer transplanting when the soil is moderately wet, without being drenched or drowned. I prefer evening to morning, unless it be cloudy all day. Have your ground and plants in good order, and you may set them evenings, whether the weather be wet or dry. DISTANCE APART. The distance of setting plants apart, should be deter- mined by the manner in which they are to be trained, and by the amount of room you have for plants, ete. Differ- ent distances will appear, according to the different modes of planting and training. I will speak of three methods, which I will eall first best, second best, and third best. Other methods, without. st: aking or cribbing, I will not dwell upon. [ shall give but little attention to second and third best, but speak mostly of the first best. METHOD THIRD BEST. This [I call cribbing, or any kind of frame work put >? around the plants, to sustain them, and keep them from the ground. LThave preferred the following plan to any other that I have practiced or seen. Set the plants three or four feet apart, according to the room you have, &e. Make a crib or frame, the cross pieces of lath, and the upright corner pieces, (or posts as they may be called,) of pine or any soft w ood, about two or three times as stout as the lath. Instead of having the corner posts stand per- pendicular, have them slanting, so that the lower ends will be six inches apart, and the upper ends fifteen. Have the posts twenty or twenty-four inches long. Take your cross pieces of lath, and with light nails nail them on the posts, so as to make the above size and shape. Put three or four cross pieces on each side, beginning at the top, and leaving a space of eight or ten inches at the bottom of the posts without any cross pieces. After your plants are set, and before they g get too large, set the crib over, small end down, and drive carefully into the ground, far enough to have it stand firm and steady. You can hoe around near to the plant, weed it, trim it, and keep it from the eround very. easily, after the cribs are once set. This method comes nearer to what is called the French method, | than any other that I have practiced. I sometimes set a 8 TOMATO RAISING short stake in the centre, to train and support the main ‘stalk. IJet four or five side branches grow, making five or six in all, I keep all withim the crib, and let none of them grow much above it. I trim off all except regular leaves, and bearing stems. These cribs if well made and taken care of, will last a number of years. But the SECOND BEST METHOD I think better still. It is this. Have the plants set three or four feet apart. Say hills three feet, and rows four feet or more. Put a good stake to each plant or hill, or set your stakes first. Then train and tie your plant to the stake, as it grows and needs support. Leave but two or three stalks to grow, and trim off every other succor or shoot as it appears. Our people in this vicinity, (Canan- daigua) who succeed very well generally in raising toma- toes, pursue nearly this method, except they fail very much in trimming. But they do not, and cannot, have so good early frnit, as they might by the FIRST BEST METHOD. Having the ground ready, and the plants, and the stakes, then the first thing in this method would be to consider how near to have the plants to each other. And this would depend upon how much room there is for the plants, and how many plants there are to be. If I had plenty of room for them, and time to attend them, [should set the hills three feet apart, and the rows four or five. If the garden is small, as mine has been most of the time, [ should say, rows three feet apart, and hills two or less. But if [ want to make the very best and most of a little ground, in the most convenient and economical manner, I have DOUBLE ROWS after some of the following plans. First plan, one single row, hills three feet apart, and then a foot and a half from that row, have another just like it, only the plants in this row, stand opposite the middle of the space between the plants in the first row. Or, second plan, have the two single rows eighteen inches apart, and the hills eighteen inches apart in the row, alternating with each other, as in the first double row. This second plan as you see, would contain twice as many plants as the first. Or, third, have two single rows, one foot apart, the hills or plants being two feet apart in the rows, and alternating with each other, as above. Here are three plans for double rows. The dis- IN COMMON GARDENS. 9 tances may be varied as you choose. I then recommend three feet or more, from one double row to another. This Double-Rowing, I believe furnishes the greatest possible amount of ood early fruit, on a small space of ground, and with the createst convenience of training, trimming, worming, and watering the plants, —vathering the fruit, and covering the plants i in case of early frost. But please bring your. ‘hand down emphatically here.—If you prac- tice any of these double rows, or this close planting, you must certainly be thorough in ‘the training, and especially in the trimming department. You must positively let only one single ‘stalk erow on a plant. The most distin- guishing feature between my first, second, and third best methods is, training and trimming. Indeed this is the eat turning point of success, in raising early tomatoes. The trimming is the chief part. My first best method does not determine how far apart the _ or rows shall. be, or whether there shall be any rows. But this espe- cially, that only one stalk be left to grow, and that kept well ‘trimmed, and trained, and tied. Therefore my direc- tions for trimming, ete., will apply equally to single hills, or single or double rows, wherever the one stalk system is adopted. Plants must be set before tr imming, ete. I re- commend to set stakes before setting the plants. STAKING. IT use mostly pine stakes, made from the trimmings of matched boards, which are cheap at the planing mill.— Others can use what they please, or split up boards to. make stakes. Use something long and strong enough to sustain the plant and its fr uit. I prefer pine or soft wood, because it is so much easier putting in and taking out tacks. Any hard wood is just as good, where the string is merely tied loosely around the stake, without being tacked to it. I use stakes about five feet long, going into the ground far enough to stand strong and steady, eight or ten inches. When the stakes are taken up in the fall, they should be cleaned of strings, tacks, and dirt, and put under cover till wanted again. “When you have concluded where to set your plants, | how far apart, ete., then you will know just where to put your stakes. Set them first, and press the dirt on the west, north, and east sides, and set your plant on the south side of the stake, two or three inches from it. Set the plant the same side towards the sun, that it has ever been. In taking up your plants, take 10 TOMATO RAISING up soil enough to not disturb the roots; and have holes large enough to put them in, dug in front of, or on the south side of the stakes, Press the dirt cently, but not hard, around the plant. If your plants are eight or ten inches high when set, they may need tying immediately, at least they should be tied before they are broken down by the wind, or their own weight. TYING. Where plants grow fast, they should be tied at least once a week. Use soft strings to tie with if you can.— Do not tie too tight, and yet, tie so as to keep the stalk tolerably straight, and near to the stake. When a fruit stem is too long or too weak to hold up its fruit, it should be carefully tied, unless it can be laid over a stout leaf which will sustain it, T use narrow strips of cloth, a half inch or so wide, and fasten them to the stake by a large headed carpet tack, that can generally be pus into soft wood by the thumb and finger. TRAINING. - Having observed the rule of keeping the plant always the same side towards the sun, and training up only one stalk, you will be prepared to train that in such a w: ay, as genel rally to have the fruit stems on one side, sun side, and use the space between the leaves on the opposite or back side, for the place of your stake. By taking a little care and pains, you will be able to train the plant, so that the leaves spreading on the back, or shady side of the plant, will form a complete place for the stake, and brace or lean against it, very mnch like a man standing with his back toa post, ‘and his arms spread out and turned backwar ds, so as to brace against the post. These ideas may some of them be new, but in practice, they are beautiful, conven- jent, and useful. TRIMMING. In trimming, [ use a sharp knife, so as to do it better, : quicker, and with less stain on the fingers, than by pinch- ing off the shoots. Leave the one main stalk to grow, and trim off everything else except the leaves and fruit stems. Trim as often as they need it, especially once a week, so that you will not have to look and reach thr ough the br anch- es and leaves to find and trim what ought to have been done weeks before. Trim thus promptly and early ; because it | will be easier done then, and because it will save nourish- | IN COMMON GARDENS. 11 _ ment to the plant, which would be lost by late trimming, / and because your fruit will be better and earlier, Trim off blossoms and small fruit, where there is an excess; that _ Is, where there is more than can be sustained and matured on that branch or stem, always leaving those nearest the main stalk. Some stems will sustain more fruit than oth- ers, according to their length and strength. Where the fruit grows in clusters: on each side of the stem, five or six will generally be enough. for one stem, unless it be laid across or over a leaf, or sustained by tying, in which case it may support twice as man¥ as it otherwise would. But where the fruit grows in large round bunches or clusters, very near the main stalk, there may sometimes be a dozen or twenty come to maturity ; though some of them are generally small, and might better have been clipped off early. Don’t he afraid of trimming off blossoms and small fruit. If properly done, you will gain in quality and quantity of good mature fruit. When the plants or vines have reached a proper highth, four or five feet, or when the blossoms or young fruit are set enough for the plant to maintain and mature, (which is eenerally as soon as any fruit ripens on the same plant, or sooner if the season be late,) then the tops of the vines should be clipped or cut off, and no more fruit allowed to set. These rules for trimming, though designed for plants trained to a stake where only one “stalk 3 is left to grow, are nevertheless just as applicable to all plants where trimming is practiced at all, except the difference resulting from the one stalk SYS- tem. The one main stalk may divide itself into two or three equal branches, so that you can searcely choose be- tween them; and yet you must choose, and cut off all but one. When there is a perceptible drfterence, choose the best. When there is no difference in size, choose the one most likely to have its fruit stem towards the sun, or the one that stands fairest to the sun. My particular method of trimming is this: Let the whole plant grow till the fruit stem appears, which may always be known by the buds. Then cut off all the shoots or succors that come out below this fruit stem, but never cut off a ‘regular leaf, with but few exceptions. Leave the leaves for. respiratory organs to the plant. Continue to trim thus below the first fruit stem as long as shoots continue to grow. Above the first fruit stem, continue the same prac tice of trimming off all but the fruit stems and leaves ,up to the top of the plant ; 12 TOMATO RAISING and clip that off in due time. I said never cut off a leaf, but with few exceptions. The exceptions are as follows: First, when it is essentially in the way of getting around or working among the plants. Second, when a “leaf pre- vents fitting and fastening the main stalk to the stake properly, i may sometimes be cut off, though seldom. Third, when the fruit is too much conce ealed from the hight and the sun, a little trimming off of a part of a leaf’ or leaves, will do good by letting j in light, and by giving you a better view, and a better oppor tunity to take care of the fruit. Occasionally, the main stalk of a plant will stop short without any branches, at the first or second set of fruit buds. In this case, if he plant rises above that fruit stem, it must be by the side shoots from below, of which you may choose the best or uppermost, and tr ain it up as amain stalk. Or, for experiment, you may leave several side shoots to orow not very high, ‘and call it the French method. In closing my remar ks about trimming, perhaps it would not be amiss to caution people against one mode of bad trimming. And that is, after hav mg neglected trimming until it is too late to reap much benefit from it, and when well trimmed vines have ripe fruit; don’t wet out of patience, and go and cut and slash and half kill your vines for the sake of getting a few wilted half ripe tomatoes. Much better avoid all this, by trimming in time. For taking off STAINS, use tartaric acid. CULTIVATING THE SOIL. | Hoe the ground enough to keep down the weeds, and | keep the ground fresh and loose; but do not hill the plant | up so high, that the water will all run off without wetting the roots. WATERING. Much benefit may be derived from watering the plants, when the weather is dry. Do not put on cold water, es- | eae when the plants are hot from an all day’s burning 4 sun. I prefer to have water that has stood through the day or longer, so that it is not cold, or else have the chill | taken off by the addition of a little warm water. When | the days are very hot, and the nights cool, I prefer to wa- ter early in the morning. When the nights are about as | warm as the days, I would water evenings. When the) plants are small, water with a fine sprinkler. When larg-: ! er, use a coarser one for your own convenience. When’ IN COMMON GARDENS. tes: well grown, take off the rose, and pour directly from the open spout. No harm in using the rose all the time, if you have time and disposition to do so. Probably it would be better. Please keep out the COB WEBS from your plants. DEFECTIVE FRUIT. After the fruit begins to develop itself considerably, and as it begins to ripen, there will be some so knotty, ete., that it will not be worth saving: and some with a dry, and others with a soft rot, before maturing. All such fruit had better be taken 4 and out of the way, when first discovered. Leave no fruit to decay on (ie ground, lest it furnish seeds or plants that get in unawares, among your own selected ones. The creat effort in rais- ing tomatoes, is to get good early ripe fruit. Do your best, to get ripe fruit, and you will have plenty of green. So there need be no effort in that direction. WORMS. For several years successively, we have had more or less sensational reports, or scare-crow stories in the papers, about tomato worms being so poisonous. Other reports and evidences, which I think more reliable, say they are not poisonous. This is my firm belief about our common tomato worms. If there be an uncommon, stray, poison- ous one, on tomato plants more than on other plants, I am yet to be convinced of it. But, that there are at times, worms whose teeth, (if they have any,) are like devour- ing elements to the plant and the fruit, none can deny. These worms are a reality, and when au where they abound, they should receive prompt attention and exter- mination. When they are large and voracious, they can easily be detected by their droppings, which will abound directly under them. They will be found devouring the fruit or leaf, sometimes on the under side of the leaf. My method of disposing of them is to colonize them under one end of a board, with my feet on the top of the board. Let me make one suggestion here. If your plants are well trained and trimmed, and the cob webs, etc., kept out, you will be much less likely to have worms ; and if you do have any, they will be much easier discovered and captured, and you not as likely to run your hand against them. ‘To guard against contact with worms, and “much of the stain, a pair of gloves is ample secur ity. 14 : TOMATO RAISING RAISING AND PRESERVING SEED. Though it may be well to try some new kinds of seeds or plants yearly, yet the only sure way to have good secd is to raise or save it yourself, Select for seed the best fruit that is earliest ripe. Always having reference to the size, shape, smoothness, frnitfulness, and the shortness of the fruit stem, and its ability to sustain fruit without breaking. The solidity of the meat or pulp is one of the most desirable qualities, and can be partially determined by the feeling and the weight, but not fully, until it is opened. Any time during the season when you find some extra good fruit, save some for seed. When the seed fruit is selected, the next step is to separate the seeds from the pulp, the juice, the mucilage, ete. Cut the tomato open, take out the seeds with the handle of a teaspoon or the like, putting them in a dish by themselves. When you have all you want of one kind, or for one time, clean and separate them, as best you can, This is my method. Put the seeds into a small sieve, and hold the sieve a little depth into a pail of clean water with one handsthen with the other, stir and rub the seeds around until they are as clean as need be. Then drain the water off, and spread the seeds on a smooth board to dry. When they are suffi- ciently dried, take them off carefully with a smooth case knife. Put them in the hollow of one hand, and rub them thoroughly with the thumb and fingers of the other, until the seeds are all, or nearly all, separate and single. Sometime before planting I separate e the seeds entirely, if they are not already so. After the seed board has been used once, it should be washed, and the dried mucilage got off before 1 using again. The seeds which I save I put in papers, each kind by itself, aud put on the date, and the name ‘or kind,'and lay it away for future use. Here let me make another suggestion. ‘Tomatoes are constantly changing, improving or deteriorating, or mixing with other kinds, according to the care they have, or the circumstances that swiround them. The best kinds you have may run out, or deteriorate very much in a few years. Hence, if you have a supply of good seed, you can fall back upon that any time within five or eight years 8, and perhaps longer. While tomatoes neglected may fastly deteriorate, it is equally true that by proper care and cultivation, they may as fastly and as certainly improve. i IN COMMON GARDENS. 15 FALL FROSTS. After a heavy frost, tomatoes are done tor the season, un- less they have been well covered or protected. If vou have but few vines, and those convenient to cover, this may be done. But where they cannot be protected, the , vines having fruit you wish to preserve, may be cut off close to the ‘ground or pulled up by the roots, and taken with the fruit, and put where the frost will not hurt them. Do this just before the first hard frost. If neglected till afterwards, it will be of no use. It may be of use after a light frost. They may be put in a barn or shed, secure from frost, and give them the benefit of the heht and sun the best you can. My hot bed, (not hot in the fall, but (clean and dry,) makes a good ‘place in which I can put wo or three bushels, and keep them till cold weather or \ter, and take them out as they ripen, or as we want m. What I put in. there, I lave picked and assorted. . é¢tinand shut out, air and sunshine, as the fruit requires. If y ou do not save your tomatoes on the vines, you can pick ther In off, and spread them on boards, or the floor of some spa {re chamber in the house or woodshed. In some of these wr Ays tomatoes may be kept for weeks or months after they «© yuld have been killed if left exposed to the frests. DISPOSING OF THE VINES. 4 IM ter the vines are dead and the fruit gathered, strip 0" ia vines from the stakes, and dig them under, good and € fep with a spade. They will sometimes be rotted by the fne you want to make garden again. If they are not, dig lightly ov er them the first season, and afterwards they will become thor oughly rotted and incorporated with the / soil. Bythe way, (though digressing a little) it will pay to have a little strip of ground on purpose to dig under all kinds of vegetable matter; vines, weeds, potato and apple pearings, ‘ete., during the whole season. These re- marks apply chiefly to those who occupy small lots, or who do not keep domestic animals to consume their vege- table matter. Commence by digging a trench a few feet long, good depth, into which for a while, throw all your, waste vegetables, vines, and spare weeds. Then dig across a few times again, which covers the mass, and forms a new trench for the next batch, and so on. The less ground you have for this use the deeper your trench should be, and the more put in it before covering. -In a few years this prac- ee 16 TOMATO RAISING tice will add something to the quantity, and much to the richness of your soil, “besides keeping your garden and yard much neater and cleaner, and avoiding Ss pu- trefactions, ete. FALL PREPARATIONS. If your eround i is not in good condition, improve it what you can in the fall. Most grounds will open earlier and drier in the spring, for having been dug up in ridges in the fall. Those who plant in “boxes will do well to save some good soil in the fall, where the winters are severe. NAMES OF TOMATOES. In closing up this subject, I should like to give the names of the different kinds of tomatoes. But the number vA is legion, or soon will be. And the best as well as thay poorest, are constantly changing names or qualities, both; and new ones being added. If we send abroad f some new kind highly recommended, we sometimes getile new name put to an old kind, for ihe sake of selling Therefore we abandon the idea of giving names to a as great extent. We know there are more names than < a ean call to mind, and many more names than kinds. W4.- have had one or two dozen different kinds, and twice > “+ many different names. We raise mostly, about half® dozen kinds, such as we call the best. ‘Then we rais\®. few others for the sake of varieties. Some of the best’& — now have are crosses. For instance, one of the earlist kinds, not the largest, crossed with one of the best al largest, but not the earliest. About the best kinds whit I have now, and of which I have j SEEDS TO SELL are the Cubans, Keye’s Early Prolific, Cedar Hill, Feejee, General Grant, Early Itahan, Cuban-Feejee, and Cuban- Tilden. The last two are crosses. We have also other kinds and seeds to spare. We think tomatoes are best de- scribed by the color, size, shape, and smoothness of their surface; by the solidity of the meat or pulp; by their earliness, and some kinds by their leaves. But we appre- | hend that it will not pay to enlarge upon this part of the , subject. We believe our pamphlet thus far, will pay those who purchase and read it, as a general rule. At any rate, we are inclined to give e them an opportunity of testing it, before we proceed any farther. eee. » ree —— $$$ $s TAYLOR'S WEATHER ‘] ABLE : 1869, AND Calendar for 1870, COMBINED. Agais Calendar is the same as other common Calendars for 1870; = but the WEATHER TABLE is entirely new and original—show- i | | | | i | | | ing the Average Tempcrature, and the Variation of the Weather, | every week and month in the year, and the date and temperature | of all Extreme Weather, cold and hot, each month; also the num. | | ber and amount, in inches, of all the Storms of Snow and Rain each month, and the whole amount through the year, etc., ete. Although these observations were taken in Canandaigua, yet they nearly represent the county, and a large section of country in this ' latitude. Also, in different and distant sections of country, these Tables | would be valuable, to compare with the Weather Tables in those | places, with which I should be glad to make exchanges. | | ! | | | | | | The above Tables and Calendar, For Sale by Horace Taylor aud at the Bookstore, Canandaigua, And by Merchants in several adjoining towns. LIFE AND FIRE Inusuranee Adeney, Hubbell’s New Block, West Side of Main St, CANANDAIGUA, N. Y. Dwellings, crn: ise, 55> Furniture, Merchandise, manutactories / and all kinds of Property, insured in responsible Companies, upon _ the most REASONABLE RATES. » LIBRARY OF CON 26 |lllll il. g . M. MARSH, Photog raphon a eo aie: iam BLOCK, CANANDAIGUA, N. Y. a ne ee ten en a ee All kinds of work done pertaining to the art, and warranted to give satisfaction, PHOTOGRAPHS MADE FROM OLp ‘PICTURES, and enlarged to any size, and finished in Oil, Water Colors, or Ink ° C. M. MARSH, Artist. A | | | COMSTOCK & BENNETT, ‘Attorneys and Gounselars, | FRAMES FOR SALE CHEAP, Rooms Nos. 9 and 10, MexXechuie’s New Block, Main St., KOANANDAIGUA, ‘RO. Me. - -Harton L. Comsrocg, THomas H. BENNETT i) is! aemecmemeceeccmemmmnnmesnetmmer