MP, Smithsonian
2202 Institution

Purchased from the

CULLMAN ENDOWMENT

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OF THE

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- STATE OF OHIO,

INDIANA TERRITORY, AND

LOUISIANA.

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€ COMPREHENDING

THE OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS, Ps:
AND THEIR PRINCIPAL TRIBUTARY STREAMS: -

‘The face of the country, soils, waters, natural productions,
animal, vegetable, and mineral; towns, villages,’ .
settlements and improvements: — ;
AND
A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF THE INDIAN TRIBES
WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

_ AN INTERESTING JOURNAL OF MR. CHAS, LE RAYE, ©

While a captive with the Sioux nation, on the waters of the
Missouri river.

——iiE—— [
BY A LATE OFFICER IN THE U.S. ARMY.

BOSTON :
PUBLISHED BY CHARLES WILLIAMS.
J. Belcher, Printer.
1812,

PREFACE.

Tue writer of the following sheets, duing
a residence in the western country for many
years, has had occasion to visit several
parts, to travel over a large portion‘of the
State of Ohio, in different directions, and
to descend the Ohio and Mississippi rivers,
as faras New Orleans. In these excur-
sions, opportunities continually occurred
for observing, and collecting information
respecting, those objects. which are inter-
esting to adventurers into a new country, ).%
and which may be gratifying to the curios
ity of others. Minutes were made of the
face of the country, soil, waters, natural
productions, and of whatever appeared
worthy of particular notice; cither from
his own observation, or from the informa-
tion of others which he had reason to ee
lieve was authentic.
These notes were made with no “othe
- view than for his own. satisfaction, and for
communications to his friends. Solicita-
tions, however, from a number of his

iv

friends, whe conceived that an extract from
them would be acceptable to the public,
especially those interested, or who wish to
become interested, in a country so rapidly
increasing in population, have induced
him to consent to this publication.

Information of those parts of the country
which lie west of the Mississippi was col-
lected’ principally from very respectable
officers of the army. Several of these offi-
cers were so obliging as to favour the wri-
ter with liberty of making extracts from
journals which they had kept, while march-
ing in different parts of the country, or
commanding at particular posts.

On passing with the troops from Ken-
‘tucky to New Orleans, Mr. Le Raye ap-
plied to the writer for a passage with him
in the boat under his immediate command.
This gentleman, who is a native of Canada, .
had been engaged, for several years, in
trading with the Indians, on the river
Saskashawan, northwest of the Lake of the
Woods; but, in the year 1801, he deter-
mined to turn the course of his business
to the river Missouri. Unfortunately, on
his first adventures he was taken captive
by a band of Sioux Indians, with whom he

v1

Vv

remained more than two years and an half,
before he obtained his liberty. During his
captivity, he kept a journal of the most
material occurrences which took place, so
far as circumstances would admit. Before
parting with him, he very politely presented
an extract from it, with permission to make
such use of it as might be thought proper.
Presuming this journal will be found par-

ticularly interesting, it is annexed to this

publication.

A general account of the State of Ohio,
it is believed, will be acceptable to those
who have lands or friends in this State, or
who may contemplate emigrating there
themselves. ‘The remarks are principally

confined to those, which would. naturally

occur to a cursory traveller, passing, in
different directions, through the seyeral

countries. It is not improbable that this.

part of the narrative will appear the least
interesting to some, but to others, it is con-
ceived, it may be a species of information
that will be desirable. In the arrangement
of this publication, it was thought most
eligible to begin with the State of Ohio,
and proceed to the southern: and western

‘Parts of the country. .—%
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A

TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION
OF THE

STATE OF OHIO.

Tue first purchase of land in the State of Ohio,
after the Indian title was extinguished, was
‘made by the Ohio company. On the 27th of
November, 1787, Congress made and executed
a contract with the agents of the Ohio company
for the sale of one million and an half of acres,
at the price of one million of dollars, to be paid
for in final settlement securities. “This tract
was bounded on the east by a line called the
seventh range which had been previously run 3;
southerly on the Ohio river ; westerly on the
seventeenth range of townships, and to extend
so far north, that a line running east to the first
boundary, should contain, exclusive of the
reservations, the quantity of land contracted
for. : ‘

The first regular settlement of this State
commenced inthe year 1789. A party of about
sixty men from New-England, under the super- _
intendence of General Rufus Putnam, and
hired and paid by the company, arrived at the —

&

mouth of the Muskingum on the 7th of April,
and immediately began to clear the land on the
eastern side of the river. In the month of Au-
gust, eight families had arrived, who inhabited
the temporary buildings, erected for their ac-
commodation, on that pleasent and commanding
situation where the beautiful and thriving town
of Marietta now stands. Inthe course of the
autumn more arrived, so that, at the beginning
of June, 1790, there were twenty families on the.
ground.

Tt was the intention of this company, among
whom were many of the officers of the revolu-
tionary army, to have made a rapid settlement,
but the Indians beginning to commit depreda-
tions, checked the emigration from the Atlantic
States. In the winter of 1791, several persons
in the out settlements were killed, and others ta-
ken prisoners. The people were obliged to erect
posts of defence at Bellepre and at Wolf Creek.
Marietta was strongly stockaded, and the inhab-
itants lived in a garrison state, until after the
victory gained by General Wavne, on the 20th
of August, 1794.

Soon after the Ohio company had made this
purchase, another contract was made with Con-
gress by Col. John C. Symmes, for a tract of
land supposed to contain about one million of
acres, lying within the following limits : begin-
ning at the mouth of the Great Miami river, and
thence running up the Ohio to the mouth of the

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9

Little Miami river ; thence up the main stream
of the Little Miami t0’the place where a due
west line, to be continued from the western
termination of the northern boundary line of the
grant made to the Ohio company, shall intersect

the said Little Miami river; thence due west,

continuing the said western Hne to the Great
Miami river ; thence down the Great Miami to
the place of beginning.

Settlements commenced in the autumn of
1789, on this tract, under the direction of Col.
Symmes, principally by emigrations from the
State of New Jersey. But the settlers here
were subjected to embarrassment similar to
those of the Ohio company, in consequence of
the Indian war. The settlement made little
progress until after the conquest of General
Wayne, and the treaty with the mae ah in the
succeeding year.

Not long after the commencement oF these
settlements, another of considerable magnitude
was begun, on a tract of land, called the Con-
necticut Reservation, situated on the northeast
corner of the State, and bounded east by the
Pennsylvania line,on the north by lake Erie, and
extending westward as far as Sandusky lake.
These settlers came principally from the State
of Connecticut.

These were the first scbtlerefite geldoakedn

on a large scale, within the limits of the State

10

of Ohio, but made little progress until after the
- close of the Indian ware

Another very considerable settlement com-
menced; in 1796, on a tract of land, called the
Virginia Reservation, situated between the
Scioto and Little Miami rivers. This land was
located by army warrants, granted originally to
the troops of the Virginia line of the revolution-
ary army. A part of the settlers were from
Virginia, but far the greatest number from the
State of Kentucky. The town of Chillicothe
was began in the autumn of this year (1796),
and so rapid was the increase of inhabitants that
it was made an incorporate town im about five
years. Fhe Territorial Assembly of the rep-
resentatives of the people convened in this
town for several years, and it continued the seat
of government until 1809, when, by act of As-
sembly, it was moved to Zanesville on the
river Muskingum.

On the 13th of April, 1802, the people were
authorized, by an act of Congress, to form a
constitution and State government, and were
accordingly admitted into the Union upon the
same footing with the original States.. By the
same act, the boundaries of the State were es-
tablished on the following lines, viz. ‘‘ Begin-
ning on the east by the Pennsylvania line; on
the south, by the Ohio river to the mouth of the

Great Miami river ; on the west by a line drawn _

due north from the mouth of the Great Miami>

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and on the north by-an east and west line drawn |
through the southerlyextremes of lake Michigan,
running east, after intersecting the due north
line aforesaid, from the north of the Great
Miami, until it shall intersect lake Erie, or the
territorial line, and thence with the same
through lake Erie, to the Pennsylvania line
aforesaid.”

The number of inhabitants, since the peace
with the Indians, in 1795, has been rapidly
increasing. In 1803, it appeared that there
were 15,314 white males of 21 years of age and
upwards. Calculating on this data, it has been
supposed, that the whole number of inhabitants
at that time could not be less than 76,000. It
has been presumed that the emigrants ceming
into the State annually, for several years, were
about 12,000. The embarrassment, however,
occasioned by the embargo, operated as a very
serious check on the acquisition of inhabitants
from the other States, as well as from foreign
nations. The present number within the State,
cannot with much certainty be ascertained.
By a late estimation, from the probable natural
increase, and the additions by emigration, the
population is stated, in round numbers, to be
200,000. ‘The accuracy of this estimation will

- soon be decided by the next census.* °

Having traversed alarge portion of the Statein

_ several directions, it will be attempted to give a

J By the census taken in 1810, the number of inhabitants.
are 230,843. 3

12

cursory description of the face of the country,
soils, and the natural and cultivated productions,
beginning atthe eastern boundary.

Near the mouth of the Little Beaver Creek
the boundary line between the States of Pennsyl-
vania and Ohio, meets the Ohio river, 42 miles
below Pittsburgh. Near the creek are some
rich bottoms or intervals, but the land back rises
into high hills; on some of them isa good soil
and capable of cultivation. There are’ some
handsome farms, producing wheat, rye, barley,
oats, flax, hemp and Indian corn. Not far from
the mouthof the Little Beaver, a spring has been
found, ‘said to rise from the bottom of the river,
from which issues an oil which is highly in-
flammable, and is called Seneca oz/. It resem-
bles Barbadoes tar, and is used as a remedy for
rheumatic pains. People who have travelled
for several days on foot, have found much
relief by rubbing this oil over their joints.

The land from the Little Beaver to the
Muskingum, on the Ohio, ascends into high
hills, some of them terminating in elevated
peaks, but there are frequently, large rich val-
lies that intervene, at the base ‘of the hills.

Towards the Muskingum the summits of the’

hills become more broad and fleet. Some of
them are free of rocks, and;having a rich soil
admit of cultivation. The greater part of these
hills may be profitably improved for orchards
and grazing of sheep and cattle. As) far as

4

4

is

- Wheeling and Grave Creek they abound with
coals, and generally of a goed quality. |

In many of these hills are quarries of excellent

‘free stone, capable of a good polish, and make
beautiful walls in buildings. Some of these
stones, when first taken out of the ground, are
so soft that they can be worked into various —
forms with carpenter’s tools. On the side of a
hill above Steubenville, it is said, there is a spot
of ground, that when covered with a considera-
ble depth of snow, a smoke is seen to rise from
it, as if it were heated by a subterranean fire.
And that near the base of the same hill, if an-hot
sun succeeds a shower of rain, an excellent
white, fine salt may be collected from the sur-
face of the rocks. Not far from Georgetown,
38 miles below Pittsburgh, it is said, a gold
mine has lately been discovered. A specimen,
it is reported, has been tried by a silver-smith
at Pittsburgh, who declared it to be pure gold,
without alloy. The lump had the appearance of

being found*in running water.

The base of some of the hills extends to the
bank of the river, ‘others recede leaving wide
bottoms of a very rich and deep soil. When

the hills approach the river on one side, they
usually recede from it, on the other, so that
there are wide bottoms, alternately, on both
sides the river. Much of the soil in these bot-
toms, especially the first, (for there are two and

“three bottoms rising one above the other, form:
2

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—

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inga sort of glacis) has been found as deep as

the bed of the river. The hills are clothed with
a thick forest of trees, consisting of white; red
and black oak, hickory, ash, chestnut, poplar,
sassafras, dogwood, and the grape vine. ‘The
bottoms are covered withaheavy growth. The
largest trees are button-wood, called here
sycamore, elm, black walnut, tulip tree, and
beach. The smaller trees consist of hickory,
white walnut or butter-nut, locust, honey-locust,
buck eye, mulberry, sugar-maple, cherry tree,
crab-apple tree, plumb tree, papaw, and willow.
The grape vine abounds on the bottoms, and ,
grows toa prodigious size, ascending to the
tops of the loftiest trees. ‘The passenger, glid-
ing down the river in the summer, is amused
and delighted with the appearance of these vines
on the upper branches and tops of the trees,
forming large canopies, festoons, arbours,
erottoes, with numerous other fantastic figures.
Some of the trunks of these vines are of a size
which will admit them to be split ifito four rails
for fence.
‘The sugar-maple is a tree of immense value
to the people of this State. It‘ @ught to be a
first object with every man, when he begins to
cultivate-his land, as. much as possible, to pre-
serve these trees. Each tree, from eighteen to
twenty, inches in diameter, will yield four
pounds of sugar every season. The process of
making is to tap the tree with an auger, drive |

AS

into the hole a wooden tube, and place a trough
under it to receive the water. Large kettles
being placed in the most convenient situation
among the trees, and a fire made under them,
the water is brought in buckets, where it is mod-~
erately boiled, until it comes to a consistency
which scarcely admits of any longer stirring
with a stick made for that purpose. It is then
removed from the kettle, and is still constantly”
stirred until it is cold. As it cools it granulates
and becomes bright and dry. The grain of
this sugar, made at the beginning of the season,
very much resembles the sugar made in Louisi-
ana from the sugar cane, and not inferior to the
best Musquevado. The quality of the sugar
depends much on care and cleanliness in making
of it. The season for making, and the time it
continues, varies according to the state of the
weather. It generally commences in February
and continues about six weeks. When the
trees are at a distance from the house, a camp
is formed in a central place among the trees,
and is called the sugar camp. The whole
family sometimes resorts to this camp, and
women and children assist in making the sugar. _
In camps consisting of one hundred and fifty to .
two hundred trees, have been made from five
hundred to a thousand pounds of : sugar, in ‘one
season. An average pes of the a ies |

etc mae —,

ee late in autumn, shits frosts or falls Sar: |

snow, but it depends on the weather.

16

The land back from the Ohio is best for
farms. The hills diminish in height and size,
and though interspersed with ridges and swel-
ling hills, a large portion of the ground is suffi-
ciently level for all the purposes of cultivation.
Much of the land on hills and ridges is arable,
and admits of easy tillage, having a rich and
‘deep soil; and most ef the ridgy and rough
lands may be made useful for grazing and
orchards. From the eastern boundary to the
tiver Scioto, the same growth of trees and
shrubs which have been mentiohed gerierally
prevail; although the different kinds grow more
plentifully on some lands, than they dé on
athers, and in several places there are consider-

able growths of pine. In the tract of land called
the seven ranges there are some hills and ridges
which are high and form steep precipices. In
¢his kind of land the soil is thin, and growth
small, consisting of oak and hickory, the sum-
mits of the hills tufted with pine. On the
seven ranges there are few inhabitants, except-
ing near the Ohio. These people are princi-
pally emigrants from Pennsylvania.

The great road from Cumberland on the
Potomac river, commonly called the United
States road, crosses the Ohio at Wheeling,
where there is a distributing post-office, that
receives and despatches the mail once a week to
the westward, and twice a week to the eastward.
Where this road leaves the Ohio it takes a.

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and about one sixth part are built. with. brick.

: 17

westerly direction, and passes through the State
of Ohio to Limestone, in Kentucky. This road
is the great thorough fare of people, in which
there is incessant travelling from different parts
to'the Atlantic States, and from these States into
the western country. The land through. which
the road passes from the Ohio to Zanesville, on
the Muskingum, is uneven, but rich, pretty
thickly settled and well cultivated. There are
four thriving villages. St. Clairsville is the
largest, containing anumber of handsome houses |
and several stores of goods. It is the principal
town im the county of Belmont.

Passing down the Ohio from Wheeling to
Muskingum, there are only scattering settle-
ments on the rich lands near the river.

The town of Marietta, situated at the conflu-
ence of the Muskingum with the Ohio, has
greatly increased mm population and wealth.
Before the settlement commenced, the ground
on the eastern side of the Muskingum was laid —
out in the form of a city, containing. one thou-
sand lots of 90 feet front and 180 feet rear. The
squares were oblong, separated by spacious
streets, which intersect at right. angles. Alarge
square was reserved for a market, and several
others, in different parts of the city, for pe lig: ty
tises, or pleasure ground. ‘There are no W5. fOr
the city ground, more than one hundred: Hensess

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and stone. Many of the houses are Tatge and
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built in a handsome style. The form in which

the town is built, adds much to its elegance, and
the gentle rising of the city ground back from
the Ohio, affords an extended and delightful
prospect of the rivers and distant hills, which is
greatly heightened and enlivened by the ship-
ping and various kinds of water craft floating
on the streams. A part of the town is built
on the opposite side of the Muskingum, and the
houses not inferior in elegance to those on the
city ground. |

Marietta is the seat of justice for the county
of Washington, and has a court- chduse and jail.
‘There are two religious societies ; the largest
is Congregational, who have erected a hand-
some meeting-house. It has an academy,
which is also improved as a house for public
‘worship.

Within the area of the ground laid out for a
city, at the northeast part of it, are’'a number of
the ancient works:so frequently found: in the
western country. They consist principally of
two large oblong squares and an elevated
mound, in the form of a cone. The largest
square contains forty acres, and the Smallest
twenty: They are enclosed by walls or ram-
parts of earth, without any ditches, from six
to ten feet in height, and about thirty feet in
breadth at the base, with twelve openings, or
gate-ways, at regular distances from each other.
Krom one of the angles of the largest square’

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nearest the Muskingum, is the appearance of
the walls of a covert way, leading towards the
river. The highest part of the remains of
these walls is twenty-one feet, and forty feet in
breadth at the base. The mound of earth, in
form of a sugar-loaf, isthirty feet in height,
and the base 115 feet in diameter. It is situ-
ated at a little distance from the smallest square.
These works were included in public squares
and have been carefully preservedss*but-a-small
opening:has been made in the conic mound and. ras
found to contain human bones. Although. these
ancient works fill the beholder with astonish-
ment, others have been discovered of far greater
magnitude. Ona branch of the Muskingum,
about ninety miles front Marietta, there are
these ancient works extending about two miles
in length, and the ramparts and mounds of a ~
much greater height than those’ found here.
Vestiges of ancient works, of different forms
and sizes, and at small distances, are to be
found over the whole State, and in aay
parts of the western country.

Fr

Marietta is favourably situated for commerce £
and manufactories. The depth and gentle mo- ~
tion of the water, in the mouth of the Mus-
kingum, and the cheapness of excellent ship
timber, render this one of the best places for
ship-building on the Ohio river. A number ¢ of

large ships and brigs were built in a short ‘ti ey ie i:

and the employment was rapidly progbeta ie

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20 ‘

until a stop was put to it by the embargo.
Three rope walks, of nearly a thousand feet in
length, were erected, and the numerous me-
chanic branches, connected with the highly im-
portant employment of ship-building were
established. The Muskingum (which means,
in the Indian language £/é’s Eye) is of immense
importance to this town. The current is mod-
erate, rarely overflowing its banks, and may be
navigated with keel boats and other craft, dur-
ing the summer, as far as Zanesville, sixty miles

from Marietta. There are falls, but happily

formed for erecting water works of every de-
scription. Above the falls the river is again
navigable, not only in the main stream, but
many of the numerous branches which mean-
der through a rich and level country in their
way tothe river. ‘Vhe largest branch is the
Tuskarawa, which, with only a portage of seven
miles and an half, communicates with the —
Cayahoga river, emptying into lake Erie. The
immense quantity of produce which this fertile
tract of country is capable of yielding for market,
and the easy transportation, cannot fail of ren-
dering Marietta a convenient place of sale or
deposit, from whence, by the ships built here,
it may be sent abroad. Materials for many
different manufactories may be procured here
with so much facility, and from the well known
spirit of industry and enterprize prevailing
among the people, therecan be na doubt of theit

_ ai

entablishment in process of time. A bank was

established here in 1807, with a deposit of an

100,000 dollars, from which essential benefits
have been derived. There is a post-office, two
printing offices, and two weekly papers.
Ascending the Muskingum from Marietta,
at the distance of five miles, is Captain Devol’s
ship-yard, where a number of large vessels have
been built, and one of them more than 200
tons. The workmanship and timber of these
vessels are said not to be inferior to any that
have been built in the. United States. Their

_ frames were black walnut, which is said to be as

durable as the live oak and is much lighter.
The plank of these vessels are said to be of an
unusual length and firmness. The forests here
abound with the best of timber, such as white
oak, black walnut and locust, and the prodigious

height and size of the trees, admit of the selection

of any dimensions which can be wanted. Ex-
cellent masts of yellow pine are easily procured.
Tron-ore is found, in places, in almost every part
of the State, and a sufficiency of bariron can be
obtained without difficulty. But the want of a
greater number of furnaces and forges, keeps up
the price higher than it otherwise would be. As
much tar as can be wanted is brought down the
Alleghany river. The people can, with ease,
raise as much hemp and flax as would be suf-
ficient toa supply the whole of the United States.

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The lands on the Muskingum Hove cm a,
are rich, thickly settled andWell cultivated. At
the distance of twelve miles is the town of Ad-
ams, and twenty-three miles, by water, is the
town: of Waterford, within the purchase of the
Ohio company.” Ata small distance above this
purchase, the bottom lands are narrow, and the
hills are many of them steep, tufted with pine,

for about thirty miles. They then begin to re-

cede from the river, and bottoms increase in
width to: Zanesville; at the distance of a few

miles west of the river the face of the country is

swelling hills, with a rich soil, and the growth

pringipally beach and oak.
” a: on this river abound with coal, and

much of it of an excellent quality. It is saida
vein of coal has been found crossing the bed of

the river, remarkable for its purity. The pieces
of the coal have the:appearance of varnish,
somewhat resembling japan, and when laid on

> ° . * ° >
‘the fire, a kind of fusion is produced, which con-
-tinnes until it is consumed by evaporation,

without disagreeable smell, and deposits
searcely any cinder or ashes, Coal has been

gold at Marietta at about three cents the bushel,

and is much used by the inhabitants for fuel, in

preference’ to wood, when wood can be pur-

chased at one dollar per cord.

Descending the Ohio, at the distance.of ten
miles below Marietta is Bellepre. This bean-:
tiful village is several miles in length, extending:

ir

- trees thrive surprisingly, and the flavour and —

_ of the Atlantic States. The gardens yield” all

teresting. The following was written by” ce 2

; published in the Ohio Navigator.

to the Little Hockhocking river. The people
are principally farmers. The good management
and excellent culture of their farms has been
much admired. An early attention was paid
to raising different kinds of fruit trees... Orch-
ards of apple trees of large extent have been M

- planted, which are now become extremely pro-

ductive. The fruit is of various kinds and of
the best flavour. Prodigious quantities of cider
is made, and when the fruit is properly collected
and carefully made, the liquor is of the first —_
quality. They ‘have likewisé large peach =
orchards for making peach brandy. In this part ~
of the State apple trees and all garden rie

4)

path

size of the fruit is considered superior tothat ,

¥-* -
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the culinary plants in high perfection. T he ¥a-
rious sorts of melons are delicious and erow to
a large size,

Opposite to Bellepre is the beautiful island

Heowned by Mr. Blannerhasset. The name of | Aga ats
_ this unfortunate man, whom Col. Burr, by his = Hi

artifice seduced to engage in his ‘nefarious
schemes, is well known. This may render’ some te
description of this delightful seat the more in-

gentleman, on a tour from Philadelphia, and

““Blannerhasse?s Island.=-On aac Se

BR: ink from the landing, at quarter of 4 mile be"

»

a4

low the eastern end) we entered at a handsome —
double gate, with hewn stone square pilasters, _
a gravel walk, which led us about one hundred
and fifty paces to the house, with aymeadow on’
the left, and ashrubbery on the right, separated °
by alow hedge of privy-sally, through which
innumerable columbines and various other
hardy flowers were displaying themselves to the
sun. The house is built of wood, and occupies
a square ef about fifty-four feet each side, is two
-stéries high, and in just proportion ; it is con-
nected with two wings,by a semicircular portico,
er corridor running from each front corner. The
shrubbery, well stocked with flowering shrubs,
and all the variety of evergreens. natural to the
climate, as well as several exotics, surrounded
the garden, and has gravel walks labyrinth fash-
ion winding through it. The garden is not
large, but seems to have had every delicacy of
fruit, vegetable and flower, which this fine cli-
mate and luxurious soil produces. In short
Blannerhasset’s island is a most charming
retreat for any man of fortune fond of retire-
ment, and itis a situation perhaps not exceeded
for beauty in the world. It wants however the
variety of mountain, precipice, cataract, distant
prospect, &c. which constitute the grand and
sublime.”

From Bellepre to the Great Hosagaee
the country is uneven, and some high hills near .
the Ohio, but the soil is generally good and the:

25

growth is large. Excellent farms are made
back from the Ohio on both the Hockhockings,
and on their branches where there are large bot-
toms, and rich swelling hills.

Qn the Great Hockhocking thirty miles from
the Ohio, are the two college townships granted.
by Congress to the Ohio company for the en-
dowment of a University. Athens, one of
these townships, is beautifully situated on a
bend of the river, commanding an extensive
prospect. The settlements commenced in
1797. The town is laid out in a regular form ;
the never failing springs of excellent water are
numerous ; and the soil extremely rich and fer-
tile. The number of families in the town sup-
posed to be about one hundred. An act incor-
porating the university was granted in 1801. A
building has been erected for the instruction of
youth, who are at present under the care of a
preceptor. The bottom lands on this river are
more extensive and of a better quality than those
on the Muskingum.

On this river thirty miles from Athens and five
miles beyond the line of the Ohio company’s
purchase, are falls commodiously situated for any
kind of water works. The descent of the water is
nine feet, and the stream never fails at any season
of the year. Above the falls, the land on both
sides the river, is lével and rich. There the hills
_ flatten off into extensive plains. +:

26

From the great Hockhocking, or the Ohio, to
Galliopolis, and from thence*to the mouth of the
Scioto river, the land is hilly, clothed with an
heavy growth of excellent wood and useful tim-
ber, but interspersed with rich bottoms and in-
tervals. Receding from the Ohio the hills and
ridges diminish, until the land becomes sufficiently
level for all the purposes of culture. Where set-
tlements have been made in this hilly land, the
farms are very productive, and it is considered
as the best land in the State for orcharding.

On Shade river, ten or twelve miles below the
Great Hockhocking, handsome, flourishing settle-
ments have commenced. Opposite the mouth of
the great Kanhawa is Fairhaven, a small, but
beautiful village, most delightfully situated.

Three miles below is Golliopolis situated on the.
high bank of the Ohio. It was began.in the year
1792, and was settled by about five hundred
French people, emigrants directly from France,
who erected about an hundred houses.

These people, wholly unacquainted with clear-
ing up forests of heavy timber, after forming
handsome gardens, and, planting vineyards and
orchards, became discouraged. Finding them-
selves inhazard by the Indian war, they began to
desert the town. Some went down the river
about twenty-five miles and settled on donation
lands given them by Congress, opposite little
Sandy creek, but many of them went down the
Mississippi to- Louisiana. The town has since
been on the decline. It is the seat of justice for

27

the county of Gallia. Before these people left
Galliopolis they made a considerable quantity of
wine, mostly from the native grape. Some of
the wine made here, when improved by age, is
said to have been of an excellent quality.

_ From Galliopolis to the mouth of the Great
Scioto are few settlements, excepting the new
French settlement: on a tract of 20,000 acres
given by Congress to the original French settlers
at Galliopolis. This tract extends eight miles on ©
the Ohio river, and is situated nearly opposite
the Little Sandy river. Adjoining this land is
a grant of 4000 acres, made to Man. Gervis, who
has laid out a town upon it, to which he has giv-
en the name of Burrsburgh.

Above the mouth of the Great Scioto is the
town of Portsmouth and below it the town of
Alexandria, both of which are favourably situa-
ted for becoming places of much business. The
Scioto is a large and beautiful river. When over-

flowed, the waters extend but a small distance
from its natural banks. Both sides are bordered
with rich bottoms and a great extent of excellent
land for culture. It is navigable for keel boats
to a great distance, and for small craft to a port-
age within four miles of Sundusky lake.

Having gone down the Ohio to the Scioto river,
we will now return to Zanesville, on the Mus-
Kingum, and on the,great road leading from

Wheeling to Limestone, in Kentucky. Zanes-
ville is situated on the east bank of the Mus-
kingum, about eighty-five miles by water from

. * 5

28

Marietta. Congress, in 1796, made a grant of |
this tract of land to Ebenezer Zane, as a com-—
pensation for opening a road from Wheeling to
Limestone, and establishing and maintaining fer-
ries-.over the rivers on this route. Col. Zane
laid out this town in 1800. Its progress was slow,
and there were few houses with either brick or
stone chimneys, until 1805. Since that time its
improvements have been nearly equal to its local
advantages. It is situated on a bend of the river
opposite to the great falls, and being on elevated
ground, has a variegated and commanding pros-
pect. It contains aconsiderable number of large
and convenient houses; and the buildings are
annually increasing. The court-house is nearly
completed, built with beautiful free stone and in
an elegant style. The seat of the State govern-
ment is now removed to this town, where it is
expected it will be permanent. The post-office
in this town is a distributing office, from which’
mails are sent off ih different directions. On the
west side of the river is Springfield, containing
about fifty houses, and some of them handsome
buildings. ‘There are four or five stores of dif-
ferent kinds of geods. Here Licking Creek dis-
charges its waters from the westward into the
Muskingum, after meandering through an exten-
sive country of the first rate lands. About four
miles from the mouth of this creek is a beautiful
cataract formed by a rock extending across the
stream at right angles, and producing a fall of.
seven and an half feet, while the water above and

29

below appears to be on a perfect level. Besides a
grist and saw mill, a furnace has been erected,
which was expected to go into operation the last
summer. Near the furnace is the appearance of
a large quantity of iron-ore, supposed to be of a
superiour quality. Coal abounds in this vicinity
and can be procured nearly as cheap as at Mari-
etta.

On the State road, west of the Muskingum, are
rich and moderate swelling hills. On the north-
ern side of the road they gradually flatten off
almost to a level, and are clothed with excellent

-timber, consisting principally of oak,. hickery,
beach, black walnut, blue and black ash, mulberry,
elm, buckeye, cherry, and gum. The soil is deep
and rich. _This description of land extends from
the head waters of the Muskingum, to the waters
of Scioto and Miami’s, and northward to Lake Erie
with little variation. Only a few large hills and
ridges are distributed over a great extent of
country. |

On the State road, 39 miles from Zanesville, is
the town of New Lancaster. This town was laid
out by Col. Zane, in the year 1800, on a delight+
ful spot, and has increased with great rapidity.
It is built on the east side of the Great Hock-
hocking, where the stream is not more than six
yards in width, but on rising ground, and where

a beautiful prairie or natural meadow, stretches
along the bank of the river for several miles, and

about half a mile in width. This prairie renders
5 ae

30

the situation of the town exceedingly pleasant and
agreeable. It contains perhaps about an hundred |
houses, built in a very neat manner, with hewn
timber, and principally on one street. It has an
handsome brick court-house, four stores of goods, .
and four taverns. The town and the adjacent
country is settled mostly with Germans, from the
vicinity of Lancaster, in Pennsylvania. It is the
seat of justice for the county of Fairfield.

From New-Lancaster to Chilecothe is thirty-
eight miles, and the face of the country, excepting
near Lancaster, where are a few. moderate hills,
is very much a continued plain. It has a thin
soil and is badly watered. ‘The growth small,
consisting mostly of black and white oak and some
hickory. The soil inclines to clay, which is con-
sidered indifferent for farming land. On the
southern extremity of this glade of land com-
mence the chains of hills which extend on the
Ohio-and its branches for several hundred miles,
On the northern extremity of this glade, the land
is very flat and low, and much of it too wet for
‘eultivation; but where the swells are so high as
not to be overflowed in the winter and spring,
the soil is rich, and produces large timber. At
the distance of 28 miles from Lancaster, about
three miles north of the State road, the Pickawa
plains begin and extend to the Scioto river. They.
are several miles in width, not entirely level,
but interspersed with gentle swells, which render
the prospect the more agreeable. This tract is

e 31

destitute of trees or shrubs, excepting a few com-
pact clusters of trees, surrounded with thick
bushes, appearing like scattered islands in a bay.
The soil is good, anda fine stream of water passes
on the south side. They are said to produce the
best wheat raised in the State. There are two
small villages on them, containing about 50
houses, and a wind-mill has been erected which
grinds all their grain. These plains have been
considered as the handsomest tract of land in this
part of the country. The land from the Pickawa
plains, in a northerly direction, for thirty or forty

miles is level, interspersed with wet prairies,

nearly to the forks of the Scioto, and thinly set-
tled. Near the forks the land is good and thickly
settled. In an easterly direction from the forks
of the Scioto to the waters of Licking Creek is a
largely extended tract of level lands, with some
wet prairies but mostly a very rich soil, and is
fast settling. At the distance of 38 miles is the
town of Granville, built bya number of emigrants
principally from Granville in Connecticut, where
are thirty houses, and the country well settled
around it. East of Granville, about seven or
eight miles, is Nework, on the waters of Licking
Creek. It contains about 60 houses, a log court
house and jail, and a large log Presbyterian meet-
ing house. It is the seat of justice for Licking
county. This tract of country is well settled as
far east as Zanesville. The land father north-

52

ward continues level, but is much of it low and
swampy, and is thinly settled.

South of the State road as it approaches the
Scioto, twenty-eight miles in a southeasterly di-
rection from Chilicothe and 63 from Galliopolis
on the Ohio, are the Great Scioto salt-works. The
land is hilly and covered with a heavy growth of
timber. The salt water is found near the banks
of a stream which runs into the Scioto, and is
called Salt Creek, at the depth of about twelve feet
from the surface of the ground. Fresh water, as
it passes over, is prevented from flittering into
the salt water, by an extremely hard pan of clay.
There are sixteen furnaces, and when in opera-
tion, each furnace will make 70 or 80 bushels of
salt in 24 hours. ‘The method of constructing a
furnace is to dig a long trench in a hard pan of
clay, four feet deep at one end and ten feet at the
other, with a gradual descent into the deep end,
which is the mouth of the furnace. Ninety ket-
tles of thirty gallons each, arranged in two tiers,
are placed in the trench. A fire is made at the
deepest end, and a chimney is formed at the oth-
er, ina manner that will admit of a strong draught
through the length of the furnace. The water is
pumped by horses or mules into a large cistern,
and then laded into the kettles. An intense heat
is necessary for boiling the water. As the water
evaporates at the mouth of the furnace, what re-
mains in the kettles isladed intothosenearthe chim-
ney, and these kettles are again filled with water,

’

;

33

30 that the water near the chimney is in a constant
state of crystallization. Tallow and Indian meal
are used to premote the crystalization. It
requires about 600 gallons of water at these works
for one bushel of salt. There are no settlers
near the salt-works, excepting those concerned in
making salt.

Chilicothe, an Indian name, signifying fowz, is
situated on the west bank of the Scioto, where the
State road crosses the river. In the year 1796,
Col. Nathaniel Massie, with eight or ten men,
who accompanied him from Kentucky, explored
the wilderness to this spot. They planted and
raised Indian corn, on a rich prairie, about two
miles below the town. In autumn they formed
the plan and laid out the town in lots. The next
spring they brought out their families and com-
menced the settlement. From this small begin-
ning has risen up, in about thirteen’ years, one of
the most beautiful towns in the western country.

The following description of the Scioto and
Chilicothe is from a gentleman whe made a tour
into the western country, from Philadelphia, in
the year 1807, and is taken from the Ohio Navi-
gator.

‘“‘ Chilicothe is most beautifully situated on
the banks of the Scioto about 43 miles by land,
and nearly seventy following the meanders of the
river from its confluence with the Ohio, which it
joins between Portsmouth and Alexandria. “In
all that distance the river has’ a gentle current

34

and unimpeded navigation for large keels and
other craft of four feet draught of water. It con-
tinues navigable for smaller boats and batteaux
upwards of one hundred miles above the town
towards its source to the northward, gliding
gently through a natural, rich, level, and rapidly
improving country. The situation of the town is
on an elevated and extensive plain of nearly ten
thousand acres of as fine a soil as any in America,
partly in cultivation, and partly covered with its
native forests. This plain is nearly surrounded
by. the Scioto, which turning suddenly to the
northeast from its generally southerly course,
leaves the town to the southward of it, and then
forms a greatbend to the eastward and southward.
Water street which runs about east by north
parallel to the Scioto, is half a mile long, and con-
tains ninety houses. It is 84 feet wide and would
be a fine street, had not the river floods caved in
the bank in one place near the middle, almost into
the centre of it. There is now a lottery on foot
to raise money for securing the bank against any
further encroachments of the river. Main street
parallel to water street, one hundred feet wide, as
is market street, which crosses both at right an-
gles, and in which is the market house, a neat
brick building, eighty feet long. The court house
in the same street, is neatly built of free stone
on an area of 45 by 42 feet, with a semicircular
projection in the rear, in which is the benches of
the judges. It has.an octagonal belfry rising from

35

the roof, painted white with green lettices, which
is an ornament to the town, as is the small plain
belfry of the Presbyterian meeting house, a hand-
some brick building in main street; in which
street also is a small brick Methodist meeting
house. ‘These are the only places of public wor-
ship in the town, if I except the court house which
is used occasionally by the Episcopalians and
other sects. .

‘©The whole number of dwelling houses, as I
counted them, is two hundred and two, besides
four brick, and a few framed ones now building.
T reckoned only six taverns with signs, which
small proportion of houses of that description
speaks volumes in favour of the place. There
are fourteen stores, a post-office, and two printing
offices, which each issues a Gazette weekly.

“ The soil of the town being of a gravelly kind,
the streets are generally clean. The houses are
of free stone, brick or timber clapboarded, the
first of which is got in the neighbourhood, is of a
whitish brown colour, and excellent for building.
They are mostly very good, and are well painted.
On the whole, I think Chilicothe is not exceded in
beauty of plan, situation, or appearance, by any
town I have seen in the western part of the Uni-
ted States.

“ There is here a remarkable Indian monu-
ment in Mr. Winship’s garden in the very heart
ofthe town. Like that at Grave Creek, it is round
at the base, about seventy or eighty feet diame-

36

ter, but differs from it by being round instead of
flat on the top, which has an elevation of about.
thirty feet perpendicular from the level of the
plain. It is formed of clay, and though it has
been perforated by the proprietor, nothing has.
been found to justify the common opinion of these
mounts having been burrows or cemetries.. They
talk of having it levelled, as it projects a little
into market street, but I think it a pity to destroy
any of the very few vestiges of Aboriginal popu-
lation which this country presents to the curious
and inquisitive traveller. : |

“From asteep hill about three hundred feet.
perpendicular height, just outside the western ex-
tremity of the town, is a most charming view of
the streets immediately below, under the eye like _
a plan on paper; then the Scioto from one hun-
dred to one hundred and fifty yards wide, wind-
ing on the left, with some low hills about two
miles beyond it, terminating the view to thenorth- |
east; while to the eastward and to the westward, |
as far as the eye can reach both ways, is spread a
country partly -flat, and partly rising in gentle
swells, which, if cultivation proceeds in equal pro-
portion to what it has done since Chilicothe was
first laid out, about ten years ago, must in a short
time present one of the finest landscapes imagi-
nable.” e

From Chilicothe, on the State road, to Point
Falls, is eighteen miles. Atthese falls is the town
of Bainbridge, consisting of about twenty houses,

‘ke
oe

where there is a post-office. ‘The falls will admit
of extensive water-works, and the country around
them consists of a rich soil. Two miles below
the falls, Point river has washed away the side of
a hill that bordered on the bank, which has ex-
posed to view a great variety of fossils. The
hill, which is supposed to be nearly 400 feet high,
seems to consist principally of lamina of slate
stone. ‘These lamina appear to be cemented to- .
gether by allum and copperas, which is melted and
runs out by the heat of the sun. It is collected by
the inhabitants and applied to common use. There
are round lumps of a mineral substance, from the
size of a turkey’s egg to that of a large common
ball, frequently rolling down, -which’ appear to
contain sulphur, lead, and copper. In the vicinity
of Point river, which runs into the Scioto, are a
great variety of ochres and pigments of different
colours, as well as minerals, which would afford
an ample field for the investigation of the*miner-
alogists. Many sulphur springs gush out from
the hills in the neighbourhood of this river.
South of the State road, and between Point and
the Ohio, is a large range of steep hills, called the
Sunfish Hills, from a stream of that name which
drains them and discharges itself into the Ohio.
They are about forty miles wide from Point to the
Ohio, and ‘about sixty miles long from the Sciote
tothe Little Miami, The greater part of these hills
are so steep and broken that no settlements can be
made upon them. But in those parts of them

38
which will admit of cultivation, the land‘is rich, |
clothed with excellent timber, and the settlements.
rapidly increasing.

From the falls of Point to West Union, the.
land is hilly, but the soil good and thickly settled.»
The town is situated on the declivity of a hill, |
consisting of about sixty houses, mostly of hewed |
logs, a log court house and jail, and is the seat of
justice of the county of Adams. From ‘West.
Union to the Ohio, opposite Limestone, in Ken-
tucky, on the great road, the land is mostly hilly,
the soil rich and clothed with large timber, prin- |
cipally oak and hickory. |

The lands north of Chilicothe and the State |
road to Limestone, are, for about twenty miles,
moderately hilly, soil good, producing all the va-
riety of timber common to the State, excepting
pine. North of this tract commences the large
prairie, or natural meadow ; which extends from
the Scioto to the Little Miami, a distance of sixty ’
miles, and nearly an hundred miles in a northern.
direction. ‘This meadow has a level appearance, ,
but is somewhat an inclined plain, which produces
a more rapid current in the streams of water than
would be expected. Several branches of the.
Miami and Scioto take their rise ‘in this plain,
which is not sunk into swampy land, but most of ©
it sufficiently dry for culture. It is covered with |
long coarse grass. Cattle feed eagerly on it, and —
fatten as well asin good pastures. Large droves
are brought every spring from Kentucky, and

39

fattened here for the fall market. The soil pro-
duces good corn, and if properly cultivated would
probably produce large crops of hemp. Some
parts are sprinkled over with a light growth of
small oaks and hickory. In other parts it is so
entirely destitute of any growth-of wood, that for
a great distance not a single tree is to be seen.
It so much resembles an old settled country, that
the traveller is constantly looking out. for fences
and buildings.

The town of Franklinton is situated at the forks
of the Scioto, forty-five miles above Chilicothe
by land, and about seventy by water. It was laid
out about the year 1798, by Lucas Sullivan, Esq.
on the west bank of the Scioto, opposite to the
mouth of Whetstone river, and on a beautiful
swellof ground, which gradually depends in every
direction from the centre of the town. It con-
tains about an hundred houses, ten or twelve of
which are built of brick. It is the seat of justice
for the county of Franklin, and has a handsome
brick court house, with a neat cupola. On one
side-of the town is a delightful prairie, and on the
other the river Scioto, which renders the prospect
highly pleasing. ‘The land around Franklinton,
in every direction, is rich and level, but, at a few
miles distant, wood and timber become scarce.

Worthington is nine miles distant on the Whet-
stone river. It was laid out about the year 18035,
by the Rev. James Kilboun and others from
Connecticut. Lhe land in the vicinity of this

40

town is.very rich and level, covered with a large
growth of timber, principally beach, sugar maple,
and ash. It produces excellent corn, rye, wheat,
hemp, flax, and all kinds of vegetables, and
will probably be highly favourable to fruit trees.
‘his town has settled with unusual rapidity.

About sixteen miles northeast of Worthington,
is the town of Bixby, a new, but very growing
settlement. It has much the same face of couns
try and soil with that of Worthington.

Upon the main branch of the Scioto, thirty-six
miles from Franklinton, and near the Indian
boundary line, is the town of Delaware, the seat
of justice for the county of that name. It is sit-
uated on the east bank of the river, and the land
level and good in every direction near it, but at
present thinly settled.

The Scioto has no falls from the mouth to its
source, and glides with a gentle current, the great-
er part of the distance, over a sandy bottom! It
abounds with fish, mostly of the perch and sucker
kind, but cat-fish and pike are frequently caught.
Near Chilicothe, eighty barrels of the fish called
white perch were taken out of one deep place in
a day. |

The next considerable river, westward, which
runs from the northward into the Ohio, is the
Little Miami. Its banks are high, and has good
land on its borders, but has not a sufficient depth
of water for batteaux or boats.

41

The county of Highland lies on the east side
of this river and south of the great prairie, ex-
tending eastward within twenty miles of Chilico-
the. It is moderately hilly, the soil rich, and the

growth of timber generally large. Hillsborough
is the seat of justice, and contains about thirty
houses, and a handsome brick court house. A
tract of swaly, wet land, about eight miles in
width, passes through the country, which drains
a part of the great prairie. Its waters run off by
Oak creek into the Ohro. The road from Chili-
cothe to Cincinnati passes through it, and the
depth of mud and water renders travelling ex-
tremely troublesome at all seasons of the year.

‘The people settled between the Scioto and Lit- _
tle Miami are mostly from Virginia and. Ken-
tucky, and the improvements are inconsiderable,

excepting near Chilicothe. i
_ Immediately below the mouth of the Little
Miami, is the town of Columbia. It was laid out
by Col. Symmes, and is the oldest settlement in
the State, on the Ohio river, except Marietta ;
but has increased very little in the number of its
inhabitants, |

At present, itis only a neat, pleasant village,
consisting of about forty houses, built at some
distance from each other, on a rich bottom or
interval. Nor is it probable, from its situation,
that it will ever become a place of much business.

On an eastern branch of the Little Miami, is

Wiuliamsburge, the seat of justice for Clermont

~

a PT

= = ee es

fA oe

:

P
7

>
rr

42 ;

county, containing about fifty houses, and a
handsome stone court house. The face of the
country is hilly, but the soil is rich, especially on |
the banks of the river, where the lands are -very
fine.
» Further up the Miami is Lebanon, situated on |
the bank, and the largest town on this river. It
contains about an hundred houses and is inhabited
by the people called Shaking Quakers. They
are emigrants from Kentucky, who were first
formed into.a. regular society by a Mr. Macna-
mara; who still continues to be theirhead. They
have acquired much credit, as a frugal, industri-
ous people.

About. twenty-five miles above Lebanon, is
Z#.enia, situated on the bank of the Miami, and is

_ the seat of justice for the county of Greene. It

contains about fifty houses and a handsome court
house. The country around itis level and fer-
tile. Nine miles above this town is a very#sin-
gular spring. It issues near the brow of an high,

_ flat topped: hill, about a mile from the western
bank of the river. Water sufficient to carry an

over-shot mill issues from it, and the quantity has
never been known to increase or diminish. It
throws out a reddish sediment, which concretes
into a hard mass; forming a kind of bank, which
frequently alters the position of the spring. The
side of the hill is very steep, and the elevation of

the spring from the base of the hill is about

eighty feet. The water is very cold and has a

.

i i

ease taste of iron and copper. It is in high
‘repute for its medicinal virtues, and is become a
place, of considerable resort.

ee “The land further up the ‘river is level and the
growth principally oak. Although the soil
rather thin, it produces good wheat. seal
is, about twenty miles above Zenia, consisting of
about fifty houses and the most of them well built.
It is situated on the forks of Mad river. From ~
Sringfield to Urbana is fourteen miles. Theland
north of Springfield is much richer than that — :
which lies south of it. Here the growth varies
from oak to beach, ash, sugar-maple, black and
id Seba and cherry. Urbana 18: the wee :

mill Pee a:

. Returning back to the Ohio, the first town ee
15ty Columbia is Cincinnati, five miles Bee a
In the Ohio Navigator a concise ane: correct
description i is given of this town. PSE. eve ree

“A “Cincinnati is handsomely sittiated: on a. “frst jhe
and second bank of the Ohio,. opposite ticked |

| givers ‘It is a flourishing town, has a rich, level,

: well settled country around it. . It: contains —

p nit four hundréd: divellings, an elegant court

ISe,, sep jail, three market houses, a: land office fox

j veh oe
REOr

a ai “y

etre

44,

the sale of Congress lands, two printing offices,
issuing weekly Gazettes, thirty mercantile stores,
and the various branches of mechanism are car-
ried on with spirit. Industry of every kind being
a” encouraged by the citizens, Cincinnati is
cely to ‘become a considerable manufacturing
place. It is eighty-two miles north by east from
Frankfort, and about three hundred and eighty
by land south southwest from Pittsburgh, north
latitude thirty-nine degrees, five minutes, fifty-
four seconds, according to Mr. Ellicot, and west »
longitude eighty-five degrees, forty-four minutes.
It is the principal town in what is called Symmes’s
purchase, and is the seat of justice for what is
called Hamilton county, Ohio. It has a bank
issuing notes under the authority of the State,
called The Afiami Exporting companys The
healthiness and salubrity of the climate ; the level-
ness and luxuriance of the soil; the purity and
excellence of the waters, added to the blessings
attendant on the judicious administration of mild
and equitable laws ; the great security in the land
titles ; all seem to centre in a favourable point of
expectation, that Cincinnati and the country
around it, must.one day become rich and very
populous, equal perhaps, if not superior to any
other place of an interior inthe United States.
The site of Fort Washington is near the-centre
of the'town. It was a principal frontier posts it
is now laid out in town lots.” A considerable

on

trade is carried on between Cincinnati and_ New :

45

@rleans in Keel boats, which return laden with |

foreign goods. ‘The passage of a boat of forty
tons down to New Orleans is computed at about
twenty-five, and its return to Cincinnati at about
sixty-five days. |
From Cincinnati t6 North Bend, on the Ohio
‘sixteen miles; and to the mouth of the Great
Miami, where the west boundary line of the State
“meets the Ohio, is seven miles further. This
tract of land, which extends some distance from
the Ohio, is interval of the first quality ; well
settled, and in a high state of cultivation. Re-
ceding farther back from the Ohio, the land is
hilly, the soil indifferent, and’thinly settled. The
road up the Great Miami leaves the Ohio at
Cincinnati, and comes to the Miami at Hamilten,
fourteen miles distant. Hamilton is the spot
where fort Hamilton formerly stood. It is situa-
ted on alarge plain, well cultivated, but does not

contain more than ten or fifteen houses. It has

been a considerable village, but since Cincinnati
has so rapidly increased, Hamilton has been on
the decline. Thirty-five miles above Hamilton ts

Franklin, on the Great Miami, containing about:

sixty houses, built on one street. The lands in
its vicinity are level and rich, and have some of
the best cultivated farms in the State. Dayton is
thirty miles above Franklin; the country more
level than below, and the lands well settled and
Ampreved. The town is situated on the east
“branch of the Great Miami at the mouth of Mad

_ Tt
, 7
‘, 1 ee

‘’ 4° 5
i ts i ' 2 iis ;

ois + ny +. ~te te SC oe
mye Ss) , ee, 4
ma

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AG

river. Its situation is pleasant, being surrounded
by a rich country, and bids fairto become a place
of considerable business. It contains about eighty
houses, the most of which are neatly built. It is
the seat of justice for the county of Montgomery.

h the west side of the Miami, a little above
Dayton, comes in a large branch, called Stillwater.
This branch extends from the Miami, in a wes-
terly direction, beyond the line of the State, which
is about forty miles distant. Within the State, the
lands on this branch are rich and level. This
tract has been settled by a number of French or
Quakers, who emigrated from the States of South
Carolina or Georgia. In the habits of industry
and cconomy, they devoted themselves to the
cultivation of the land, and have made great im-
provements. The tract is thickly settled and
very productive. So large a settlement by these
quiet, peaceable inhabitants has been a valuable
acquisition of the State.

From Dayton to the Indian line, north, is about
fifty miles. The lands are mostly level and rich.
From the Indian boundary the lands are generally
level to the head waters of the stream which run
into lake Erie. Some portion of this tract of,
country is inundated in the winter and spring for
two or three months. ‘The head waters of the
main branch of the Great Miami, called Leromie’s |
creek communicate, by a short portage, with Au
Glaize, which runs into the Miami of the lakes, —
and another branch, by a portage of somewhat —

AY

wreater length, with Sandusky river. ‘he port-
age is likewise short from the Scioto to this river,
and great advantages are expected to result to the
State of Ohio, in future time, by a communica-
tion between the waters which descend to the
‘Ghio, and those which run into the lakes.

The waters of the Great Miami are not inter-
rupted by falls,or considerable rapids for three hun-
dred miles. Large boats can pass from Dayton
to the Ohio, the greater part of the year. But
being subjectto a much greater decrease of water,
itis less favourable to navigation than the Mus-
kingum, nor is the river equally good for the pas-
sage of boats at any season. This river furnishes
excellent fish, mostly of the same kind, but some-
what of a greater variety, than the Scioto. Con-
siderable quantities of fine fish are taken in the
Little Miami, which afford a good supply for the
market, at Cincinnati, in summer and autumn.

The streams in every part of the State’ are well
stocked with fish of various kinds. The most of
them appear, at least, specifically different from

those in the waters of the Atlantic States. But:

similar names are applied to many of them. The
black and yellow cat-fish are of the largest size,
and weigh from four or five to more than one
hundred pounds. They nearly resemble the pout
of New England. The pike differ little from
those over the mountains in form, but are much
larger. Some have been caught of thirty or forty
pounds weight. There are fish called perch, stur-

ball
we
ue

48

geon, bass, and salmon, but differ from those
fish in the northern States. The buffaloe fish
seem to be peculiar to these waters, and are said
to be so called on account of a noise they make
in the water, resembling a buffaloe.

The State undoubtedly abounds in a great va-
riety of fossils, such as clayes, ochres, pigments,
and the most useful ores, but it has been very lit-
tle explored. The waters of the Scioto, and
some parts of the Ohio, particularly the rapids,
possess a petrifying quality. Pieces of wood,
small fish,and other animals,have been found com-
pletely changed into stone. The bones of animals
of an enormous size, and some of the skeletons
neatly complete, have been dug up in several
places, particularly at Big Bone creek, on the
left bank of the Ohio.

The quadrupeds which are native are the.

‘buffaloe, elk, red deer,* bear, wolf, grey and
black fox, panther, wild cat, rackoon, beaver,
porcupine, ground hog, grey and black squirrels,
and these smaller animals which are found in
similar climates. As the settlements have ad-
vanced, the buffaloe and elk have retreated into
the uncultivated country. Grey and black squir-
rels still continue in prodigious numbers. They

*The fawns, when very young, are often found asleep
alone inthe woods. If caught while napping and carried some
distance, they may be_ put down, and will follow the hunter
as readily as his dog, and come and eat bread out of his
hand. In this way the deer are easily domesticated.

49

are frequently seen swimming across the largest
rivers, and are extremely destructive to fields of
Indian corn.
Of the winged fowls, the swan and pelican are
sometimes seen ; geese, brant, and ducks of various
species, are found in the rivers; turkies, pheas-
ants, partridges, and quails in abundance, in the
forests. Turkies are still in great plenty, though
perhaps not so numerous, as before the settlements
commenced. ‘They are of a large size, and the
flesh of an excellent flavour. Large flocks visit
the wheat fields-after sowing, and at the time of
‘harvest, and often greatly injure the crop. When
their eggs are hatched under hens, the turkey
chickens will be tame, and in this way the wild
turkey is easily domesticated. The pigeons are
so numerous as almost to exceed credibility.
At certain times in the year, vast flights resort to
particular places, called pigeon roosts. Many of
these roosts extend over more than an hundred
acres of land, and it is said, some have been found
to exceed a thousand acres. They light upon
the trees in such numbers as to fill all the branches,
and, by their weight, break off large limbs. Evy-
‘ery tree in these extended roests is killed, and
the dung on the ground, which has been found
from twelve to eighteen inches deep, destroying
every species of vegetation beneath them. ‘The
green paroquet with a yellow crown, a species of
the parrot, is very common. It has aharsh, un-
pleasant note, and although easily tamed, it cannot

—

re)

~~

30

be taught to imitate the human voice. The hab-
its of these birds are in some respect singular.
They are always seen in flocks, which retire, at
night, into hollow trees, frequently in large num-
bers, where they suspend themselves by their bills.
These flocks also retreat to hollow trees in the
winter. There have been found after a severe
winter, prodigious numbers in a large tree, filling
the whole cavity, where they had perished by the
severity of the cold.* There are a great variety
of other large and small birds, but the most of
them are similar to those which are indigenous
in the northern and middle Atlantic States.

Some of the people, who first emigrated into
this country, had fearful apprehensions of veno-
mous serpents, but were soon relieved on their
arrival. The snakes are very nearly of the same
kind, which are found in the middle and northern
Atlantic States; probably not so numerous as
they were there, on their first settlement. The
black and yellow rattle snakes are found in the
Ohio State, but are not very often seen, except it
be near the places where they have dens. The
copper-heads are more frequently met with, about
the trunks of fallen trees and about rubbish, under
which they retreat in the winter. ‘They resem-
bie the rattle snake in colour, but not so large, are

* The large collection of feathers found in a hollow tree,
in Waterford, and examined by the Rev. Mr. Harris, were
probably the feathers of these birds. Harris’ Journal of a

Tour to the Ohio. Page 100.

ol

less active and destitute of rattles. Their bite is
not considered so dangerous as that of the rattle |
snake. ‘They have five or six very small poison-
ous teeth, placed in the same sack, on each side
of the upper jaw; the rattle snake has only one
on each side, but are very large. The moccason
snake, which is very common in the Carolinas,
has been seen in some parts of the State, but very
rarely. In the prairies, a very small rattle snake,
about the size of a man’s finger, and ten or twelve
inches in length, is frequently found among the
grass. They are called the prairie rattle snake,
and are said to be venomous. These are all the
poisonous snakes found in this country. There
are two kinds of water snake; the backs are
black, and the belly of the one is a bright red,
and of the other of an ash colour. The other
snakes are the common black snakes; some with
a ring round the neck, but the most of them have
none; the striped and green snake, and the
speckled snake, usually called the house adder.
Lizards, of various colours, and some of them
very beautiful and active, are plenty. At the falls
of Point Creek, a remarkably large water lizard
has been taken with the hook, while fishing for
the cat and other fish. The form is that of a liz-
ard; the skin, in colour and smoothness, resem-
bles the New England pout; the legs short, and
the tail flattened like an eel. When a pressure is
made on the body, thick, milky matter, in large
drops, and perfectly white, extides from the pores

62

of the skin. Some have been caught of eight or
ten pounds weight. They are not amphibious,
for they will not live longer out of the water than
the pout or eel. The other reptiles, and the great
variety of insects, found -in this country, do not
appear materially to differ from those of the Ats
lantie States..

TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION

OF THE

INDIANA TERRITORY. —

Tuts part of the northwestern country was con-
stituted a territorial government, by an act of
Congress, passed the 7th day of May, 1800, and
was bounded eastwardly by the following line of
separation ; viz. ‘All that part of the territory of
the United States, northwest of the Ohio river
which lies westward of a line beginning at the
Ohio, opposite to the mouth of the Kentucky
river, and running thence to fort Recovery, and
thence north until it shall intersect the territorial
line between the United States and Canada, shall,
for the purpose of a temporary government, con-
‘stitute a separate territory, and be called the In-
diana Territory. And Saint Vincennes, on the
Wabash river, shall be the seat of the govern-
ment.” Only the eastern boundary is named in
the act, and the Indian claim of a large portion of
the Territory is not extinguished. The whole
tract, agreeable to this line, is bounded south by.
5% ate

54

the Ohio, west by the Mississippi, and north by
the line between the United States and Canada,
which makes the extent of this Territory consider-
ably greater than the State of Ohio.

The general face of the country approaches to -
a level, but some parts of it are hilly. Ithas a
number of large, navigable rivers meandering:
through it to the Ohio and Mississippi, and many
smaller streams, some of which run into the
lakes. .

The Wabash is a large river, rising near the
head waters of the river St. Joseph, and the Mi-
ami at the lakes, and running in a southwesterly

'* direction empties into the Ohio,about four hundred

and seventy miles below the Great Miami river.
It is four hundred yards wide at the mouth, and
navigable for keel boats, about four hundred miles,
to Quiatan, an ancient French village ; and from
this village, with small craft, to a portage on a
south branch, which forms a communication with
the Miami that runs into Lake Erie. This por-
tage is eight miles, and comes to the Miami near
Port Wayne.

From a north branch, by a short portage, a
communication is made with the river Saint Jo-
seph, running into Lake Michigan. The Wabash
is replenished with numerous tributary streams,
and has generally, a gentle current above Saint
“Vincennes. Below are several rapids. Those
which principally obstruct the navigation are
between Saint .Vincennes and White river, called _

55.

the great Rapids. Near the village Ouiatan, it is
said a silver mine has been discovered, which it
is apprehended will prove valuable. About forty
miles below the village comes in the river Ver-
million Jaune.. On this river is the residence of
the much famed Indian Prophet. The town in
which he lives is large for an Indian village, and
has received the name of the Prophet’s town.

Mauch of the land on the Wabash is rich and well

/

timbered, but towards the head waters there is
less timber, and very fertile and extensive prairies,

_A white and blue clay of an excellent quality is

said to abound on this river. ‘There are many

salt springs, and plenty of lime and free stone.

Saint Vincennes is a handsome town, about an
hundred miles from the mouth of the river, situ-
ated on the east bank, upon a beautiful,. level,
and rich spot of ground. It is the largest town
in the Territory, and is made the seat of govern-
ment. This was an ancient French fortress, called
Post Saint Vincennes. Since the American rey-
olution the town has been repaired and enlarged,
and 1s now a very thriving place, but the inhabi-
tants still are mostly French. There are more

than an hundred houses, some of which are built

of free stone, in a handsome style, a considerable
number of merchantile stores, a post ofice and
printing office. Here, a profitable trade is carried
on in furs and peltry. The situation is healthy,
the winters mild, and the rich and highly culti-

vated lands around it are delightful.

56

About forty miles from Saint Vincennes, in
a southwesterly direction, is the Great Sabine, so
called, where ‘salt, in large quantities, is made.
It is situated in hilly land, on a stream of water
which flows into the Ohio. The land is still
owned by the government of the United States,
but rented to those who carry on the-salt works,
and who are said to obligate themselves to make,
at least, a certain quantity annually, and are not
permitted to sell it for more than at a stipulated
price. The waters inthis Saline are said to have
double the strength of those at the great salt
springs on the Scioto river.

The land on-the Indiana side, bordering on the
Ohio river, from the Great Miami nearly to the
Mississippi, a distance of about six hundred miles,
is generally hilly and broken, but some excellent
bottoms, of different extent, are interspersed.
From a small distance above fort Massai and
down to the mouth of the Ohio, the land grad-
ually becomes level, forming arich and delightful
prairie. In this distance, there are many small
streams, but no considerable river, excepting the
Wabash, which falls into the Ohio.

But on the opposite side, within a less distance
three large, navigable rivers, besides numerous
smaller streams, contribute their waters to the
Ohio. The first is Kentucky river, which comes
in about seventy miles following the bends of the
river below the Great Miami, is ninety yards
wide at its mouth, and the same width, when the

57

water is high, eighty miles above. It is naviga-
ble for loaded boats, at ahigh stage of the water,
two hundred miles.» The second is the Cumber-
land, or Shawnee river, which falls into the Ohio
about five hundred miles below the Kentucky
river, and four hundred miles below the Rapids,
and is three hundred yards wide at its mouth.
There being no obstructions, and having a fine
‘gentle current, ships of four hundred tons can
descend in times of floods from the distance of
about four hundred miles into:the Ohio. The
third is the Tennessee, or Cherokee river, which
enters the Ohio, about twelve miles below the
Cumberland ; and is five hundred yards wide at
‘its mouth. This is the largest river that empties
into the. Ohio. It is computed to be navigable
for boats one thousand miles, and will admit ves-
sels of considerable burden as far as the Muscle
Shoals, which is two hundred and fifty miles-from
its mouth.

On the Indiana side of the Ohio, there are only
some scattering settlements, excepting Jeffer-
sonville, and Clarksville, two small villages, at
the Rapids, one hundred, and fifty miles below
the Great Miami. Jeffersonville is situated in
the bend of the river, on an high bank, just above
the Rapids, where pilots are taken off for conduct-

ing vessels over them. It is a post town, but
contains only a small number of inhabitants, and
probably will never be a thriving place. Clarks-
ville is another small village immaecdiately below

i 1 “/

38

the Rapids, and opposite the elbow at Shipping-
port. In time it may become a place of consid-
erable business. On the opposite bank, about
midway between thege two villages and opposite
the Rapids, is Louisville, which is much larger,
and bids fair to become a flourishing town. It is
situated on an elevated plain, and contains about
one hundred and fifty houses, a printing and a
post ofice. It is a port of entry, and has a con-
siderable number of mercantile stores, and sev-
eral ware houses for storing goods. Shipping-
port is on the same side, at the foot of the falls,
Here, boats generally make a landing after passing
the Rapids. Ship building was began and was
carried on with considerable spirit here, until it
received a check by the late embargolaw. Hav-
ing an excellent harbour, the situation appears
eligible for prosecuting this business to advan-
tage.’ é |
The Rapids are occasioned by aledge of rocks’
extending entirely across the river, and is the
most dangerous place for navigation, in the whole
‘extent of the Ohio river. The distance over them
is about two miles, and the descefit froma level
above is twenty-two feet.and a half. When the
water is high the fall is only perceived by an in-
creased. velocity of the vessel, which is computed
to be at the rate of about ten or twelve miles an
hour. When the water is low, a large portion of
the rocks are seen, and it is then that the passage
becomes dangerous. There are Whtiotnonce:

:

|

7
.

59

One is on the north side, called Indian Schute,
and is the main channel, but not passable when
the water is high; another is near the middle of
the river, and called the Middle Schute, and is
safe and easy in all heights of water above the mid-
dle stage. The third is on the south side, called
the Kentucky ScAute, and is only passable when
the water is high. Immediately above thé falls,
in the mouth of Beargrass creek, is:a good har-
bour, having twelve feet of water in the lowest
stage of the river. At the foot of the_falls is
another harbour, called Rock Harbour, with water
sufficient, at all times, for vessels of any burden.
These two harbours are of the greatest importance
to those who have occasion to navigate this dan-
gerous passage.

Opening a channel for the passage of ships by
the Rapids has been seriously contemplated ; which
would be of immense advantage to the trade of
the Ohio. That it is practicable cannot be doubted.
The only difficulty seems to be to raise a fund suf-
ficient for the purpose. It has been principally
proposed to open the canal on the Kentucky side,
to commence Below Beargrass creek, and enter
the river below Shippingport, a distance of about
one mile and three quarters; and that it should
be sufficient for ships of four hundredtons. The
ground through which it would pass is a stiff clay,
down to within about three feet of the flower of
the canals which then is a rock. The average
depth of the canal is computed at about twenty-

.
tal aad

fy

hw a

-

60

one feet, in order to admit a column of water
three feet by twenty-four, at the lowest stage of
the river.*

In passing down_ the Ohio, about forty miles
below the Wabash, a curious cave is seen in a
high bank, on the Indiana side. Its mouth opens
to the river, and when the water is high it nearly
flows into it. The entrance is an arch in a rock
about twenty-five feet high in the centre, eighty
feet wide at the base, and extending back from
the opening one hundred and eighty feet. The
mouth is darkened by several large trees growing
before it, which give it a gloomy and solemn ap-
pearance. Passengers usually visit it, and have
engraved on the sides within the mouth, a great
number of names, dates and other inscriptions.
Indian superstition and other fabulous stories
reported respecting this cave donot merit a
repetition. :

Further down the river, and within forty-six
miles of its mouth, is fort Massac, situated on a
high commanding bank, where a Lieutenant’s
command is stationed. It Mmeisivaly built by
the’ French. Here the lanc is “rich and level,
consisting principally of natural meadow, with

*In the Ohio Navigator a very accurate description is
given ofthe Rapids with an excellent map of the falls. From
this description the account of them here given, isprincipally _
taken. Yoo this very valuable work, the writer is indebted
for many observations respecting the Ohio and Mississippi
rivers, and for much information in regard to the country:
bordering upon them.

: o

61

some beautiful groves, or copses of large trees. ©
Near the fort, and along the banks of the river
there are a number of settlers, who have well
cultivated gardens and fields, which are very pro-
ductive. Ata small distance below, is Wilker-
sonville, situated on a bluff, formerly called Cedar
Bluffs, but has very few inhabitants.

On the river Mississippi, the first settlement of
any note in the Indiana Territory, is the village
Kaskaskia. Itis an ancient French town, about
inety miles above the mouth of the Ohio, situ-
ated on the Kaskaskia river, at the distance of five
miles from the Mississippi. The village contains
ybout one hundred houses, and the inhabitants
ricipally French. .In the vicinity of this village
he land is excellent and highly cultivated. The
river Kaskaskia is navigable about one hundred
niles, and drains an extensive tract of level coun-
ry- There isa road leading from Saint Vin-
pennes to the Kaskaskia village, nearly in a west
direction. This road passes through almost one
ontinued prairie for about two hundred miles,
here being only scattered copses of wood, which
ave the appearance of small islands, in a wide
stended bay. These natural meadows are cov-
red with a tall grass, and the sun appears to rise
ind set in the grass. On this road there are few
ettlers, and the traveller is obliged, for several
nights, to lodge in the grass or copses of wood.
n this prairie, large herds of buffaloe,, elk, and

6

62

deer, may be seen grazing nearly the whole of the
year.

Cahokia is another small village, sixty miles
further up the Mississippi, and inhabited by
French people. Itis situated on a small stream,
about a mile from the river, and contains about
eighty houses. The land fhere is rich, mostly
level, and covered with large timber.

The Llincis, a noble river, enters the Missis-
sipp1 forty-five miles further up, and twenty-five
miles above the mouth of the Missouri. It is
four hundred yards wide ‘at its mouth, and is
navigable four hundred and fifty miles. Numer-
ous tributary streams fall into it on both sides,
some of which are also navigable a considerable
distance. The Little Michilimackinac enters
the river, from the southward, one hundred and
ninety miles from the mouth, and is navigable
ninety miles. One of the principal branches of
the Illinois takes its rise near the head waters of
the Chichago river, which enters into lake Mich-
igan. Between these two rivers, there is a short
portage of only two miles, making an easy com-.
munication between the Mississippi and the lakes.
The navigation is uninterrupted,for vessels of con-
siderable burden, from Lake Michigan to Niagara
falls. From Lake Erie, to the Mohawk river,
which empties into the Hudson, it is said, all the
portages do not exceed twenty-six miles. Thus,
by portages of about twenty-eight miles, an inland
navigation is opened between New Orleans and

~~

63

New York; a distance computed to be nearly
four thousand miles. Perhaps there is not to be
found an inland navigation ef equal extent, in any
part of the world. Another large branch of the
Illinois rises near the river Saint Joseph, passing
south of Lake Michigan, where a portage may
be easily formed. It is called the Theakiki river.
, The banks of the [llinois are generally high.
The bed of the river being a white marble, or
clay, or sand, the waters are remarkably clear. It
abounds with beautiful islands, one of which is
ten miles long; and adjoining or near to it, are
many coal mines, salt ponds, and small lakes. It
passes through one lake, two hundred and ten
miles from its mouth, which is twenty miles in
length, and three or four miles in breadth, called
Winois lake.. The river, and waters communi-
cating with it, are replenished with a variety of
excellent fish. The large tract of country through
which this river and its branches meander, is said
not to be exceeded in beauty, levelness, richness,
and fertility of soil, by any tract of land, of equal
extent, in the United States. From the Illinois

to the Wabash, excepting some little distance _

from the rivers, is almost one continued prairie,
or natural meadow, intermixed with groves, or
copses of wood, and some swamps and small lakes.
These beautiful, and, to the eye of the beholder,
unlimited fields, are covered with a luxuriant
growth of grass, and other vegetable productions,
which afford fattening and plentiful grazing for

64

innumerable herds of buffaloe, elk, and decr. All
the variety of forest trees and shrubs, common
to the western country, are found in some parts
of the Indiana Territory; but different kinds
abound more in some situations and soils than in
others. There is also a great difference in the
‘size of the growth of the same kind of trees, in
different soils. In the neighbourhood of the
kilinois the crab-apple, plumb, and cherry treés

_ grow in great plenty, yielding fruit in abundance.
Here the grape vine flourishes admirably, pro-
ducing large quantities of grapes, of which the
inhabitants make a good red wine, for their own
consumption. It is said in the year 1769, one
hundred and ten hogsheads of well tasted and
strong wine were made by the French settlers,

from the grapes. The sugar-maple, and black
and white mulberry grow in plenty.

The settlers on this river are almost entirely
French people, who live principally in small vil-
lages. Where the land is cultivated, it yields
large crops of almost every article they commit
tothe ground. It has been found that tobacco,

_-..--indigo, hemp, and flax, can be-raised here to much
advantage.

Between the Illinois and the falls of Saint An-
thony, a distance of about eight hundred and sey-
enty miles, there are a large number of consider-
able streams, and some of them navigable rivers,
which come from the eastward and discharge
their waters into the Mississippi. The following

65

are the largest navigable rivers, and the computed
distance from each other, with the distance they
are said to be navigable. The first is Rocky
river, or Riviere a la Roche, one hundred and
sixty miles above the Illinois. This is a. large
river, but the navigation is said to be impeded by
rocks and rapids. ‘The second is Mine river, or
Riviere, a la Mine, two hundred and ten miles
above Rocky river, and navigable fifty miles.
The third is Ouiconsin, one hundred and twenty
miles further up, navigable two hundred miles.
A. bend in this river, near its head waters, passes
so near to a bend in Fose river, which empties
inta Green Bay, a branch of Lake Michigan,
that the portage is said to be only one mile and
three quarters, forming another easy communi-
cation between the Mississippi and the lakes.
The fourth, Black river, one hundred and fifty
miles further, and navigable one hundred miles.
The fifth, is the river Chippeway, sixty-five miles
above Black river, and navigable one hundred
miles. The sixth, is Sotoux river, only fifteen
miles further up, and navigable eighty miles.
The mouth of this river is said to be three hun-
dred and eighty yards wide. The seventh, is the
Saint Croix, further distant sixty miles, and is
said to be navigable one hundred miles. The
mouth of this river is two hundred yards. From
the Saint Croix to Saint Anthony’s falls, is ninety
miles, which is in forty-five degrees of north

latitude.
6* .

ae
fe
'

oo 2S PS os Se ew
Sol peed ee wa "

6G

North of the Illinois the country gradually
becomes hilly, and near to Lake Superior, are
mountains of very considerable attitude. It is’
inhabited by numerous bands of Indians, of dif-
ferent nations; some wandering bands, others

live in villages conveniently situated for hunting

excursions. It has been said that near some of
these large rivers, lead ore has been found in large
quantities, and that in some places copper ore has
been discovered of a very great degree of purity.
But this extensive tract of country has been very
little explored. Almost the only white people
who have visited it, have been the traders in furs

_and peltry.

A
DESCRIPTION sid,

OF THE 2

MISSISSIPPI. RIVER.

nN . | is
‘Purs noble river was made the western boundary

of the United States, by the definitive treaty with

Great Britain, in the year 1783. Considering its
great length, the prodigious column. of water

rolling in its deep channel, and the quantity dis-

charged by numerous outlets, it must be rated _

among the largest rivers on the American con- .

tinent. It has been called the American Nile,

?

from some resemblance it seems to bear to that

celebrated river in Egypt. The fertility of Egypt
is well known to be owing to the periodical over-

flowing of the Nile. From a similar course,

vast tracts of land have been enriched by the out-

lets and overflowing of the Mississippi. The |

Nile begins to rise about the middle of June, and

a

to subside in September. ‘The floods in the

Mississippi begin about the first of April, and

thé water falls within its banks by the first of Au~

gust. The overflowing is much greater on the

“dj

-
~

68

western, than on the eastern side of the river.
From New Madrid to Pointe Coupee, a distance
of more than eight hundred miles, the land on
the western bank, with the exception of a few
small tracts, is overflowed in the spring. In some
parts the inundation extends fifty miles back from
the river, covering vast cypress swamps, and
lands producing different kinds of wood, with a
depth of from two to twelve feet of water. No
considerable settlements for this distance can be
formed on the bank of the river. But much of
the bank on the eastern side rises above the high-
est floods, and will admit of settlements and im-
provement. ‘The waters of the Nile are extolled
by the Egyptians, on account of their wholesome
qualities and pleasant taste. The waters of the
Mississippi, after filtration, or being in any way
purified from a muddy sediment, are not disa-
sreeable to the taste, especially to those who have
been habituated to them. They are supposed to
be possessed of medical properties, operating on
some people as a mild cathartic, and generally
cleansing the skin from curtaneous eruptions.

It is supposed the Mississippi takes its rise in
a lake called White Bear Lake, but its head
waters appear. not to have been very accurately
explored. The most that is known, is derived
from Indian information. The river above the
falls of Saint Anthony, is called, by the Indians,
Blue river. Here the stream is remarkably clear,
and said to be navigable above the falls for three.

69

hundred miles. “These falls were first visited by
Father Louis Hennipin, a French Missionary,
about the year 1680, who was the first European
ever seen by the natives, and who gave them the
name of Saint Anthony’s falls. The country
adjacent approaches to a plain, with some swell-
ing hills. At the falls the river is two hundred
and fifty yards wide, and the perpendicular
‘descent of the water about thirty feet. Near the
falls the prospect is said to be highly picturesque
and delightful. This widely expanded sheet of
“water may be seen several miles below, where
the eye of the beholder is struck with pleasing
admiration, and views, with rapture, this roman-
tic scene. At these falls a large factory is estab-
lished, where many of the western bands of In-
dians bring their furs and peltry, to Se ioe for
various kinds of merchandise.

About ten miles below the falls enters the large
river Saint Peters, from the westward. The
mouth of this river is one hundred yards. wide,
and the current deep. Itis said that it holds its
depth and width very nearly for two hundred
miles. Further up, several branches come in;
the head waters of some of which are said to take

their rise near the streams which run into the

Missouri. On this river and its branches are
several trading posts, where Indians who reside
onthe Missouri frequently resort for commerce.

Ata small distance above the mouth of the
river Chippeway, is a lake, about twenty miles in

70

length and six miles in breadth, called lake Pepin.
The Mississippi passes through this lake, and
although the French have denominated it a lake,
it has rather the appearance of an extended width
of the river. The water in some parts of it is
deep, and abounds with several kinds of excellent
fish. Large numbers of fowl, such as storks,
swan, geese, ducks, and brant, resort to this lake.
The groves and plains around it are replenished
with turkies and partridges.

Below the lake, the river glides with a gentle
current, having alternately high lands on one side,
and extended meadows on the other. Some of
the precipices fronting the river, are high and
steep, ascending like pyramids, and exhibiting
the appearance of ancient towers. Descending
down the river, the eye is delighted, in some pla-
ces, with the view of large, rich prairies, extend-
ing far back towards distant mountains, with
beautiful groves or copses of trees, scattered over
them, and watered with.a number of small lakes.

Between the Saint Peters and Missouri rivers,
many streams of considerable magnitude enter
the Mississippi from the westward. The largest
of them is the river Moin, about one hundred
miles above the mouth of the Illinois. On this
river the Sioux, and some other bands of Indians,
frequently descend with their furs and skins for
market. The current of the Mississippi contin-
ues gentle, and its water clear, until it joins the
Missouri, where it becomes much more rapid, and

vi

remarkably cold and muddy. At the common
stage of the waters, in these two streams, the
s0uri is supposed to be the largest river.
eenction is formed twenty-five miles below
1¢ Illinois, and two hundred and thirty miles
ab ve the Ohio.
Phe land on the banks of the Missouri are
, and where they are well cultivated, exceed-
‘ngly productive. There are two settlements,
Saint Charles and Saint Andrew, principally in-
fabited by emigrants from Kentucky. Other -
small settlements have commenced further up the
river. The most distant settlement of white peo-
ple is Saint John’s, which is one hundred miles
from its mouth. The great extent of this river
was unknown until it was explored by Captain
Lewis, and Captain Clark. Traders had before
ascended two thousand miles, but Captain Lewis
computes the distance from the mouth to the
great falls, to be two thousand five hundred and
seventy-five miles. About one hundred miles
above Saint John’s, the river becomes broad,being
eight hundred and seventy-five yards wide, where
the Osage river enters; but about fifty miles fur-
ther up it narrows again to about three hundred
yards. ‘The Osage comes in from the south, and
is one hundred and ninety-seven yards wide at
its mouth. The Osage Indians reside on this
tiver, from whom it takes its name, about two
hundred miles from its mouth. . Here the exten-
Give prairies commence, wholly destitute of trees,

—

72

but covered with tall grass, and continue, with’
little interruption, far towards the borders of New
Mexico, and the Rocky Mountains.

Fifteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri,
is Saint Louis, delightfully situated on elevated
ground, upon the bank of the Mississippi. It is
considered to be the most healthy and pleasant.
situation known in this part of the country. The
settlement of this village was began by a few.
French people, who came over fromthe east side
of the river, about the year 1765. It became the
residence of the Spanish Commandant, and of |
the principal Indian traders. ‘ The trade of the
Indians on the Missouri, part of the Mississippi,
and Illinois, was chiefly drawn to this village.
Before the purchase of Louisiana by the United
States, it contained one hundred and twenty
houses, mostly built of stone, but large and com-
modious dwellings. It contained about eight
hundred inhabitants, who were mostly French.
Since this purchase was made, numbers have em-
igrated to this village from different parts of the
United States. There are now more than two
hundred houses, a post office, and a printing office,
issuing a Weekly Gazette. There are many
mercantile stores, and a flourishing trade in furs
and peltry. It is made the seat of territorial gov-
ernment for Upper Louisiana.

Saint Genevieve, or Missire is sixty-four miles
lower down, on the bank of the Mississippi, and _
nearly opposite the village of Kaskaskia. Itis a

#3

considerable village, containing more than two
hundred houses. In the year 1773, this and Saint
Eouis were the only villages on the western side
of the river. Ata short distance below is a small
settlement, called the Saline, where large quanti-
‘ties of salt are made, and sold at the works for
about one dollar per bushel. Not far from Saint
Genevieve, ina western direction, a large number
of lead furnaces are worked, producing great
quantities of lead, where it may be purchased at
three or four cents per pound. In various parts
Of a large tract of country south of the Missouri,
numerous lead mines are to be found. Many of
them are not more than two or three feet below
the surface, and may be worked with great ease.
Were the inhabitants sufficiently numerous to
work the mines, it is supposed a quantity of lead
might be obtained from the ore, equal to the sup-
ply of all Europe.

The principal mines which have yet been
worked, are near the head waters and branches of
the river Marameg. This river is of considera-
ble size; it enters the Mississippi about twenty
miles below Saint Louis ; it comes in nearly in
the direction of ihe Missouri; and its widely
extended branches reach far back into the country.
About forty miles from Saint Genevieve, on a
branch of the Marameg, is Barton’s mine, discoy-
ered by Francis Barton, who obtained a grant of
the land, and began to work the ore ean forty

years ago. It is now in the possession of a Mr.
a3

74

Austin, who has erected a good smelting furnace.
This ore is not of the richest kind, but a greater
quantity has been worked here, than in any other.
part of the country, from which the owner has
derived great profits. The ore is taken out of
the ground in an open prairie which is elevated
nearly one hundred feet above the bed of the
creek, and is supposed to extend over some,
thousands of acres. The mineral is found’ within
two feet of the surface, in a strata of gravel, in.
which it lies in lumps, from one to fifty pounds.
weight. Under this strata is a sand rock, easily ’
broken up with a pick-axe, and when exposed to
the air, readily crumbles to fine sand. The ore)
intermixed in the sand rock is similar to that in’
the upper gravel strata. Under the sand rock is
a strata of red clay about six feet thick. Beneath}
the clay is the best ore, in lumps from ten to two,
or three hundred pounds weight, the outside of;
which is frequently covered with a gold or silver
coloured talky substance ; some portion of arsenic.
and sulphur ; and more or less of spar, antimony,’
and zinc, are sometimes found intermixed with
the ore. Some of this ore will yield from sixty)
to seventy-five per cent.
About. five miles from Barton’s, in an eastern}
direction, is an old mine, discovered by the
French, as early as their first settlement in this:
country, and was worked until Barton erected a;
furnace at his mine. It was then neglected un-
til the year 1802, when a number of French fam-

75

ilies made a settlement near it. On opening the
mine they found a rich ore in great plenty. But
the French furnaces were very badly constructed.
They were formed somewhat similar to a lime
kiln, at the bottom of which they placed a flooring
of large logs, and set up a tier of smaller ones
around the sides of the furnace, within which they
put a large quantity of ore. A fire was then made
and continued until the mineral was smelted, and
run off into troughs made to receive it ; but much
of the metal was burnt up, or lost in the ashes.
In this manner each family smelted their own
mineral, until Mr. Austin erected his furnace.
Since that time, they find it more advantageous
to sell ther ore to him. It is conjectured that
the whole distance between the old mine and Bar-
ton’s is one continued bed of lead ore.

The time of working the mines is from August

to December. After the harvests are over, the
inhabitants of Saint Genevieve and other settle-_
ments on the Mississippi resort to the mines.
The rich employ their negroes, and the poor peo-
ple work for themselves ; depending on the lead.
they procure, to furnish necessary articles for their
families. The lead is estimated equal to cash
‘for whatever they wish to purchase.

Another mine, called Ranalt’s-mine, situated
ona creek of the same name about six miles
north of Barton’s, is said to contain very rich
ore, but has been worked only a short time.

76

On another branch of the Marameg,are what are.
calledthe American mines,discovered by a number
of Americans, who commenced. a settlement near
them. ‘The appearance of the ore was very prom-.
ising 5 but their title to the land has been contest-
ed by a number of Frenchmen, who have taken)
it from them, and have since made little progress
in working the minéral.

La Plate mine is: on abranch of the river
known by that name, which was also discovered’
by some Americans. <A large quantity of rich’
ere has been. found near the surface, and appear!
ances indicate a great extent of the mineral.
Little, however, has yet beendone in working of it..

Ata few miles distant from La Plate, is foe’s:
mine. ‘Fhe ore is found in large bodies of sey-
eral hundred pounds weight, and very pure and
solid, but has not been much worked. At a
emall distance from this is Lany’s mine, but the
mineral is of little estimation. Several other
mines have been discovered on the head waters
of the Marameg, more than one hundred miles
above Barton’s of which very little is yet known.

La Motte’s mine is on the waters of the St.
Francis, about thirty miles S..W. from St. Gen-
evieve. It was discovered and began to be work-
ed about the year 1723. The mineral is very
solid, disposed in regular veins of three or four
feet in thickness. Five of these veins have been
opened, and a part. of them worked. They are
found about four or five feet below the surface

i

ie

and descend in an oblique direction, at an angle
of about 45 degrees. They are in low, flat land,
and in a very unhealthy situation; nor can the
‘miners go down very deep before they will be in-
-terrupted by water. The mineral is very differ-
ent in its appearance from any ether that has
been found in this part of the country. Itis of
a fine, steel prain, and contains a considerable
quantity of silver. In smelting of it, a very dif-
ferent process is necessary from that which the
French people have employed, in the other mines.
The want of skilful workmen, and differently con-
structed furnaces, has greatly retarded the work-
ing of this mineral. The method these people
have pursued, has been to give the ore repeated
heatings, by laying it on piles of logs, before it is
prepared for smelting, by which great loss is.
sustained. ‘They rarely get more than thirty or
thirty-five per cent.

There is also found, at this mine, a different
kind of ore in beds. It is called, by the miners,
gravel mineral, being found intermixed with the
soil, in small particles, from the size of a pin’s.
head to that of a hickory ‘nut. After being’
washed, it is put into a furnace, and smelted into
‘slag, and then placed in another furnace, not unlike
a miller’s hopper, where a partial fluxion is pro-
duced. It is said this kind of ore, in the hands.
of experienced workmen, with a proper furnace,
would yield large profits.

{ook

vy

ig
& re
br

Barton’s mine, since the improvements made’
by Mr. Austin, is calculated to produce lead to
the amount of twenty thousand dollars per annum.
As the mineral is so easily obtained, the other
mines, under proper management, might, doubt
less, be rendered exceedingly profitable.

On the borders of the Mississippi, from Saint.
Genevieve to Cape Girardeau, there are scattered
settlements and some considerable villages ; but
from the Cape to the mouth of the Ohio, there
are very few settlers. |

The face of the country in Upper Louisiana
is somewhat broken, but the soil is generally fer-.
tile. ‘It is elevated and healthy, and well.
watered, with a variety of large rapid streams,
calculated for mills and other water works. From
Cape Girardeau, above the mouth of the Ohio,
to the Missouri, the land contiguous to the river
is generally much higher than on the east side,
and in many places very rocky on the shore,
Some of the heights exhibit a scene truly pictur-
esque. They rise to a height of at least three
hundred feet, faced with a perpendicular lime and
free stone, carved into various shapes and figures
by the hand of nature, and afford the appearance
of a multitude of antique towers. From the tops
of these elevations, the land gradually slopes back
from the river, without gravel or rock, and is
covered with valuable timber. It may be said
with truth, that, for fertility of soil, no part of the
world exceeds the borders of the Mississippt;

¥

79

the land yields an abundance of all the necessa-
ries of life, and almost spontaneously ; very little
labour being required in the cultivation of the
earth, That part of Upper Louisiana, which
borders on North Mexico, is one immense prai-
rie ; it produes nothing but grass 5 it is filled with
buffaloe, deer, and other kinds of game ; theland
is represented as too rich for the growth of forest
trees: Itis pretended that upper Louisiana con-
tains in its bowels many silver and copper mines,
and various specimens of both are exhibited.
Several trials have been made to ascertain the
fact; but the want of skill in the artists has hith-
erto left the business undecided.”*

The Mississippi, from the junction of the
Missouri, has a strong current, which cannot be
stemmed by the force of wind on sails, without
the aid of oars. The width of the river is about
one mile and a half, and the water always thick
and muddy. A depth of fifteen feet of water
can be carried down, in low stages of the river;

but immediately below the Ohio it deepens to ~
twenty-five feet, and still increases to sixty feet. —

These waters are well replenished with fish of
different kinds. The largest are‘the cat fish, the
spatula fish, and sturgeon. ‘Phe cat have been
taken weighing more than one hundred pounds,
and the spatula, of fifty pounds weight. The
smaller fish are the pike, buffaloe, perch, trout,

* Appendix.—Ohio Navigator, page 138.

2

8G

gar, mullet, and carp. It may, however, be
doubted whether the carp be of the same species
of those caught in Europe. - It hasbeen said that
herring have been taken in these waters. Alli-
gators have not been observed higher up than
the Arkansas river. A peculiar kind of fresh
water turtle abounds in these rivers. The feet
are webbed, and the upper shell remarkably soft.
They are from ten to fifteen pounds weight, and
considered very delicious. |

Fowl, the greater part of the year, are to be seen,
here in great abundance ; such as swan, crane,
heron, geese, ducks, and brant. The pelican are:
sometimes seen, but far down the river, are very
numerous. ‘Phe size and shape of this singular
bird resembles the swan, excepting in its mon-
strous pouch which is placed under its neck and
bill. Itseems to be an appendage which nature
has provided for carrying and preserving its food |
for its own support and that of its young. The
pouch of a pelican killed by Captain Lewis, when |
ascending the Missouri, was found to hold five
gallons of water. They are frequently prepared
and used for bags and other purposes.

The forest trées, in Upper Louisiana, are gen-
erally similar to those in the State of Ohio and
Indiana Territory. Black and white mulberry is
found here in much greater plenty, especially on
the Missouri. The cotton wood tree grows in
great abundance, on the borders of these riv-
ers. It has been supposed to be the same as the

St

fombardy poplar, but it°is probably a different
species. It differs, at least, in the very large
quantity of volatile, capillary pappus attached to
the seeds. When the seed vessels open, and the
seeds come out, it almost fills the air, and, as it
descends, covers the bushes and ground, like a
fall of light snow. Its appearance very nearly
resembles cotton wool, which has doubtless oc-
casioned its trivial name.

The pecan, or Illinois hickery, grow plenty on:
the Mississippi. In the swamps and lowest
flooded land, the cypress of a large size is the
principal growth. Where the land is less inun-
dated the swamp and live oak abound, which is
highest estimated for ship building. The points
at the bends of the river, and ends of islands, are
chiefly covered with thickets of small willows.

At the confluence of the Ohio with the Mis-
sissippi, its width is: very little increased, and
continues generally about a mile and a half, as
far as the Natchez, where it begins to grow some-
what broader. The principal rivers which dis-
charge their waters into the Mississippi, are the
Saint Francis, White, Arkansas, and Red river,
on the western side, and on the eastern, the Wolf
and the Yazoo rivers. |

Immediately on passing out of the Ohio into
the Mississippi, the current is very sensibly ac-
celerated, but is not so strong as between the
Ohio and the Missouri. It is estimated to run
‘at the rate of three and a half to four miles dh |

82 -

hour; and when the water is high is somewhat
increased. The river is exceedingly serpentine,
and the islands numerous. Some of the bends
in its course down to the line of demarkation, are
‘sudden and large; but between that line and,
Pointe Coupee, there are several of prodigious:
magnitude.

In navigating the Mississippi, there is at all
times a sufficient depth of water, but many sand
bars make off into the river. Frequent strong
eddies, and many large currents of water, sitting
out of the river, when the water is high, with’
gteat rapidity, require the constant and careful
attention of the navigator. The navigation is
also impeded. and endangered, by what are called
planters. ‘These are large bodies of trees, with
their roots fast at the bottom of the river, and.
stumps but just above the surface of the waters
Another impediment is called sawyers, which are
bodies of trees standing in a sloping manner, and
moving up and down by the force of the current.:
A third inconvenience is small wooden islands, |
composed of drift wood, which, by some means, }
has been arrested, and immoveably fixed to the
bottom; not rising much:above the water, are to:
be seen only at a «hort distance.-

Soon after entering the Mississippi from the
Ohio, the whole prospect is so much changed, as
to exhibit the appearance of a different country 5
the climate becomes miid and soft ; and the cold.
of winter seems to have produced very little effect.

83

n the state of vegetation. The sameness of view
along the banks of the river, as far down as Pointe
Coupee, a distance of nine hundred miles, is
scarcely interrupted, excepting by a: few settle-
ments, and some high bluffs, on the eastern side,
The land appears to be one continued level,
clothed with large timber, and an under growth
of cane brakes, and small shrubs.

Opposite the mouth of the Ohio is a small set-

tlement consisting principally of men whose em-
ployment is hunting. Five miles below, on the
‘east side, is fort Jefferson, which is evacuated.
On the west side, sixty-five miles further down,
is New Madrid. This settlement was made by
Col. George Morgan, of New Jersey, about the
year 1790. It is pleasantly situated,’ on a jrich
soil, and was intended for a large town. After
building a small number of houses, the people
became extremely sickly, and no further progress
was made in the settlement. On the same side,
thirty-three miles below, in a bend of the river,
is a settlement, two miles long, called Little Pra-
irie. This tract of land is exceedingly rich and
productive.

The first high lands té& be seen on the river are
the Chickasaw bluffs, on the eastern side. These
biuffs are four in number, the first of which are
one hundred and seventy-six miles below the
Ohio, and continue abouta mile on the river.
The second are eleven miles below the afi st ; the
third twenty-one miles below the second, and

p=

84

extend about three quarters of a mile. Passing
these bluffs, the river is extremely crooked. They
rise from sixty to one handred and fifty feet abov ;
the surface of the water. The fourth are thirty-
three miles below the third, and just above them’
Wolf river enters from the eastward. The mouth
of this river is not large, and contiguous to it is’
the site of fort Pike. These bluffs continue’
about two miles: On the lower extremity is fort
Pickering, in an eligible and commanding situa-
tion, overlooking the whole of this elevated,
ground. When this fort was built, fort Pike was
evacuated. It is a Captain’s command, who has:
a detachment stationed at Post Ozark on the
Arkansus river. This fort is in the Mississippi
Territory, where the United States keep a Factor.
Here is a small settlement of whites and Indians ;
but the most of these people are the half breed,
which is a mixture of both of them.
On the western side, about sixty-five miles:
further down, comes in the river Saint Francis.:
Its mouth is about two hundred yards wide; the.
current is gentle ; and is navigable for a consid-_
evable distance. The head waters of this river’
are said to be not far distant from Saint Gen- |
evieve, in a south westerly direction. At the
entrance of the river, stood Kappas Old Fort,’
built by the French, principally fora magazine |
of stores and provisions, during their wars with -
the Chickasaw Indians. |

+

85

Six miles below the Saint Francis, is a beauti-
ful natural meadow, called the Big Prairie. At
a small distance from the river, in this prairie,
is a fine lake, five miles long, and three wide ; it
abounds with swan ; and discharges its water into
the river, by a large bayau.

About eighty-five miles below, enters White
river on the same side; and about twenty miles
further, comes in the Arkansas, which is much
larger than White river; and admits of naviga-

tion to a great distance. A communication is
‘made between these rivers by an inland channel,
which goes out of White river about three miles
above its mouth, and about twenty miles up the.
Arkansas, connecting the waters of the two rivers.
The distance of the Post and Village of Ozark,
on the Arkansas, is fifty miles’ from the mouth
of that river; but by passing up White river, and
through the channel, it’ is reduced to about thirty
miles. On the upper and head waters of the -
Arkansas, are a large number of Indian villages.

Two hundred and ten miles below the Arkan-
sas, the Yazoo river enters on the eastern side,
which takes its rise in Georgia. It comes in
with a gentle current, and isnearly three hundred
yards wide. It abounds with swan, geese, ducks,
and other water fowl. On the borders: of this
river are theymuch famed lands, purchased of the
State of Georgia, and sold to New England spec-
ulators, called the Yazoo company. Twelve
miles further down are Walnut hills ; on the high-

8 e

“i

86

est part of which, fort Henry was built, but has.
been long evacuated. Below Walnut hills, about |
twenty-four miles, commences the Palmira set-.
tlement, on the same side. This is a very hand-
some settlement; it contains a large number of.
houses; extends eight miles on the river; andis’
in a flourishing state. The land is very rieh, and.
well improved in the culture of cotton. Further-
down about thirty miles, is the famous seat of
Judge Brain. This house is: pleasantly situated,
This gentleman. possesses a large and: handsome,
farm, which is under excellent culture. He is:
much respected for his hospitality and: politeness
to passengers when they call upon him. aH
The city of Natchez is about one hundred and
twenty miles below the Walnut hills. It is situs
ated on an extremely elevated bank, which
recedes back from the river, with a very moderate?
descent. Fronting the river, the bluff is nearly.
perpendicular, and two hundred feet. in height,
from the surface of the waters Between the base:
of the bluff and the river, is aspace which is level,
about six hundred feet wide ; it is used for land-.
ing ; and is spread over with dwellings, trading:
houses and shops. From this little village.a road:
is dug out, in a‘zigzag form, to the summit of
the bank. Thecity is built at some distance from
the edge of the precipice, leaving @ space for a)
handsome common. It contains mom than three:
hundred. houses, mostly frame, and one story:
high. Some of those more recently erected are.

.
87

two story, and in a handsome style. The houses
generally are commodiously constructed for the
transacting business, and the free admission of
airin the hot season. The prospect from the
city is delightful ; commanding an extensive view
of the river in both directions. There are two
‘printing offices, issuing weekly papers; a post
office, receiving a mail once a week 3 several mer-
cantile houses, and a large number of smaller
stores and shops. Great quantities of cotton, in-
ail tobacco, and other commodities, are annu-
ally'shipped from this city, where the accumula-
tion of wealth is pursued with industry and
ardour. It is a port of entry, and ships of four
hundred tons can come up from Orleans, which
is about three hundred miles, without any other
obstruction than the strength of the current.
The land in the district of. Natchez is generally
rich and very productive. It is elevated ground,
extending about one hundred and thirty miles on
the Mississippi, and from twenty to thirty miles
back from the river. Some parts of it are broken,
by hills, which favours the raising of horses, neat
cattle, sheep, and swine. In the woods and
swamps they get) their living during the winter.
The wool of the sheep is not so good, being more
hairy than in the country further north. Fre
quent changes in the state of the weather are ex-

° . ° e * es
perienced im the winter, but is rarely excessive ©

hot in the summer.

bh

a

&3

Cotton is the staple commodity, and is raised)
in great perfection ; it is planted the last of Feb-.
ruary, or beginning of March. Those who have’
large plantations derive great profits, and are
able, ina short time, to accumulate handsome.
fortunes. This is the utmost northern limits of
the growth of the sugar cane. Some sugar has’
been made, but this kind of culture does not suc-
ceed. Excellent Indian corn is produced with

little labour, and may be planted from the first of

March to July. Good rye has grown in some
ground, but wheat does not succeed. Indigo,’
hemp, flax, and rice, are cultivated to advantage. |
Apples and cherries appear not to be adapted to |
the climate, but plumbs, peaches, figs, and olives, |
yield their fruit in plenty. Sweet and sour oranges _
will grow here, but thrive much better further

down the river.

About fifty miles below Natchez are Loftus’
Heights. Fort Adams is on the side of these
heights, about one third of the way up, and on
the summit is a strong block house, which over-
looks the fort and surrounding country. A Cap-
tain’s command is stationed at tnellbre 3 and four
miles. east, at Washington Springs, isa handsome
eantonment, with quarters for three hundred men. |
On the landin this vicinity are considerable set-

tlements. ~

Four miles below Fort Adams, is the line of

demarkation, agreed upon between the United
States and the Spanish government. Prior to the

89

purchase of Louisiana, this line was the boundary
of the United States, on the south.

Ata small distance below the line, the river
turns short and forms a large bend to the west-
ward. At the extremity of this curve, Red river
enters the Mississippi, on the west side. This
river is large, and extends far into the country
in a northwesterly direction. On the banks and
‘vicinity of this river are the thriving and popu-
lous settlement of Rapide, Avoyelles, and Natch-
itoches. This river is used to communicate with
‘the frontiers of New Mexico. Three miles be-
low Red river, on this bend, the bayau Chaffalio
runs out with a great rapidity, and is thé first
large river which leaves the Mississippi, and
falls by a separate channel into the Gulf of Mex-
ico. Although there is a sufficient depth of
water, the navigation is prevented by a prodigious
quantity of drift i which has formed a float-
ing bridge across it, of several miles in length.
This bridge, in some places, is said to be so com-
pact and firm, that horses and cattle are driven
ever it. These obstructions are constantly accu-
mulating by the trees and rubbish which are pass-
ing into this stream from the Mississippi..

The great bend is continued below the bayau
Chaffalio, until it forms a semicircle; the river
then tends to the southward some distance,
where it winds round to the eastward and north-
ward, and runs back in a direction nearly oppo-

site to its general’ course, until it comes withim
| “—

90

- five or six miles of the line of demarkation, just
below which the great bend first commenced,
The distance across the land is only five miles,
called the Short Cut; but following the course o'
the river is fifty, miles. Here the bend still con-
tinues, turning to the eastward and southward,
until it comes within one mile and a half of the
river in its course to the northward; nearly
completing a circle of about thirty miles in cir-
cumference. The last of these bends is called
Tunica Bend, at the extremity of which is Tuni-
ea village, a handsome settlement, extending’
about twelve miles along the east side of the,
river. :

Point Coupee is about fifteen miles below Tu-
nica village, on the western side, where there was
formerly a bend, nearly resembling Tunica Bend :
but of smaller size. Here the river, after making
a circuit of about twenty miles, returned almost!
into its own stream. A channel, some years ago,’
was cut across, and by the washing of the current,,
the river is become as deep and broad as it is)
above and below, by which a saving is made of
about twenty miles in the distance. The old bend!
is called Fausse Riviere. |

Point Coupee is a rich and populous settlement,
extending about twenty miles on the river. The
land is laid out in beautiful cotton plantations!
producing great crops. Here commences. thel
embankment or Levee, on the'western side of the!
river, which is continued to Orleans, a distance:

~

~~ Seen

=

91

of about one hundred and seventy miles. Here
the beauty of the Mississippi and prospect of the
country exhibit a view so enchantingly delight-
ful, as scarcely to admit of description. On the
side of this elevated, artificial bank, is a range of
handsome, neatly built houses, appearing like
one continued village, as far as the city of Or-
leans. They are one story, framed buildings,
elevated on piles six or eight feet high, and_ well
‘painted ; the paint generally white. The houses |
for the slaves are mostly placed on straight lines
and nicely white-washed. The perpetual verdure
of numerous orange trees, intermixed with fig
trees surrounding the houses, and planted in
groves and orchards near them, highly beau-
tify the prospect; while the grateful fragrance
of constant blossoms, and the successive prog-
ress to plentiful ripened es charm the eye, and |
regale the senses. :

Baton Rouge, a very fine, flourishing settlement,
is about thirty miles below Point Coupee, on the
eastern side of the river. Here the high lands
terminate in an elevated bluff, thirty or forty feet
above the greatest rise of the water in the river.

_ And here commences the embankment or Levee,
which is continued, like that on the western side,
to Orleans ; and a range of houses, ornamented
with orange and fig trees, the same distance, -
perfectly similar to that on the opposite bank.
Baton Rouge settlement extends \about twenty
miles on the river, and to a considerable distance

a

92

back, in an eastern direction. The soil is rich;
the cotton plantations are well cultivated, produ: |
cing plentiful crops.

About fifteen miles further down, on the same |
side, is the river Iberville, which forms az out- {
let from the Mississippi when the water is high, .
but when the river is low, it is dry. The water.
of this stream runs into the lakes Maurepas and
Ponchartrain, and through them’to the sea, form- |
ing what is called the island of New Orleans. |
At a point alittle below the Iberville, commences ©
an uninterrupted series of plantations, which are |
continued, upwards of one hundred miles, to the-
city of Orleans. These plantations are all cleared
in front, and under improvement. Some of them.
are planted with sugar cane, but the greater part |
with cotton. They are narrow at the bank, and |
extend back to the swampy ground, which is’
incapable of cultivation; the land no where ad-
mitting of more than one plantation deep.

At the point below the Iberville, the Missis- |
sippi turns short to the westward, forming a large °
bend. At the extremity of this bend is an out-.
let, called the bayau Placquemine, on the western |
side, discharging its waters into the sea. By this
bayau is the principal communication with the
two »populous and rich settlements of Atacapas.
and Opelousas. These.settlements are the most
wealthy in Louisiana, abounding in horses and
neat cattle; containing a large quantity of gaod
land, capable of being much better improved.

95

The bayau la Fourche, on the same side, is
about thirty miles furtherdown, following the
meanders of the river, and eighty from the city of
Orleanse From this bayau the course of the
river is nearly south east, and much more direct
to the city. Bayau la Fourche is a large outlet,

ates with the sea to the west of the Balise. In
old maps it is called La Riviere des Chetamaches.
When the water is high it will admit of craft of
ixty or seventy tons burden. On its banks are
wumerous settlements, one plantation deep. The
fand is rich and gradually descends from the
anks to the swamps, which are generally covered
with water, and incapable of cultivation. The
ulture is principally cotton.

From this outlet to the city, the land will ad-

capable of cultivation, more than one mile from
the bank of the river. It then becomes low and
swampy to the lakes and the sea. The swamps
are immense, intersected by creeks and lakes,
extending more than one hundred miles to the
high lands of Atacapas. But the swamps gener-
ally abound with large cypress trees. Great
quantities of this timber is sawed by mills, erect-
ed on streams formed by cutting sluices through
the Levee. These mills are worked with great
rapidity nearly half the year. What has been
said of the situation, soil, and culture of the
plantation belaw Iberville, on the eastern side of

orming a considerable river, which communi--

it of only one plantation deep, and is rarely _

94:

the river, will very nearly apply to those which
are opposite, on the western side.

The city of New Orleans, is situated in a bend
of the river, on the eastern side, in latitude thirty,
north, and longitude ninety, west. It was laid,
out by the French, in the vear 1720, extending
about a mile on front, from the gate of France,
to that of Chapitoulas, and somewhat more than
one third of a mile in rear to the rampart. On
the upper side an extensive suburb has been added, |
called Saint Mary. The streets are straight,
crossing each other at right angles, but are much
too narrow, being only thirty-two French feet im
width. In the centre of the front of the city is 2)
large, handsome square, called Place D’armes.
The church and town house, built of stone, stand)
facing the square. The houses in front of the!
city, and one or two squares back, are mostly,
brick, and are two stories high; the rest of the!
houses are chiefly one story, and built of woods:
They are elevated about eight feet from thei
ground, to avoid the inconvenience of water, and!
the under part generally occupied as cellars. The.
‘city has been fortified, but the works, which were’
originally too deficient to have been defended,
have gone to decay, and are now principally
removed. ‘There are about one thousand five’
hundred houses, and between ten and. twelve’
thousand inhabitants, including Saint Mary’s. It!
is the capital of Louisiana, and the seat of gov-'
ernment of the lower territory. Although the)

95

population are annually made from the United
States, and from. other parts of the world. It is
the principal mart of the western country, where
large shipments are made to foreign markets.
From its local advantages, it bids fair to “ahi
ne of our greatest commercial cities.

» Opposite to the city, the river is about one
mile and a half in breadth, running with a pretty
trong current; and yet there is a perceptible
ise of the tide; when the water is low it .ebbs
and flows froma foot to a foot and a half, in per-
pendicular height. The distance from the city to
the sea, at the mouth of the river, is about one
hundred and eight miles; and the country low
and swampy, containing very little land capable
of cultivation. Fifteen miles below the city, and
lat the head of the English bend, is a settlement,
called Saint Bernardo, or Terre aux Beuf, con-
taining two parishes. The inhabitants are nearly
‘all Spaniards from the Canaries, who improve @
arrow strip of land, principally for raising poul-
try and garden vegetables, for the market at New
‘Orleans. At this place a cantonment was formed,
and the late army, under the command of General
Wilkinson, was mostly stationed, where a very
distressing and mortal sickness prevailed among
the troops.

_, From this settlement to the fort of Plaquemines,
forty-eight miles, the land is a morass, almost im-
passable for man or beast, and always overflowed

96

for several months in the year, but filled ‘witi
cypress and jack brush. From Plaquemines tq
the Passes is twenty-four miles, where the .
branches into three parts. These branches
called Passes, and distinguished, by the a
south, and west Pass. The land in this distanc(
is mostly clothed with jack, bushes and tall weeds,
From these branches to the sea is about twenty
miles, and the land has the appearance of a vastly,
extended marsh, destitute of trees or shrubs;
but covered with long grass.
_ The East Pass, at the distance of six miles,
divides into two branches. The eastern is callec|
Pass a la Loutre, and the other Belize. On the
Belize is a small black house, called by the same
name, and near it are a number of houses, occu
pied by pilots. Large ships, bound up the river.
enter it by this Pass; there being the greatest
depth of water on the bar. At the entrance ojj
this Pass about sixteen feet of water may be car-
ried over the bar. The bars lie without the
mouths of the Passes, are very narrow, and im4
mediately after passing them the water deepens
to six’or seven fathoms. The South Pass, whic
is directly in front of Mississippi, has been almost}
entirely choaked with drift wood, but has about
ten feet of water on the bar. The West Pass,
which is the longest and narrowest, and used te
be the passage by which large ships entered the
river, had some years ago eighteen feet, but i as

97

now said to be reduced to only eight feet of water
on the bar.

The productions of Louisiana are cotton, sugar,
rum, indigo, rice, corn, furs, and peltry. It also
affords lumber, tar, pitch, lead, horses, and cattle.
‘The fertility of the soil admits of great increase
of these and an additional supply of many other
articles. The culture of the sugar cane, which
has already become considerable, may doubtless
‘be carried to a very great extent. At present,
cotton is the largest and most profitable produc-
tion. Indigo is on the decline. Further north
‘than the Iberville, the sugar cane is liable to: be
injured by the cold, and the crops rendered un- _
certain; but all the lands southward, susceptible -
- of improvement, and adapted to that kind of cul-
ture, will produce the cane in good perfection,
‘In some parts it 1s already became a staple com-
-modity. Some planters employ about one quarter
of their plantations in the production of sugar
cane, and the remainder in pasture, and raising
provisions. It is estimated that one hundred and
eighty feet square will produce, on an average,
twelve hundred weight of sugar, and fifty gallons
»of rum. -Calculating on this data, it is presumed
the lands under present cultivation, suited to this
culture, would produce about fifty thousand
hogsheads of sugar, and twenty-four thousand
puncheons of rum. It is believed by some, that_
as a full and regular supply of provisions may be
easily obtained from above, on moderate terms,

2

98 |

one half the arable land might be planted with’
cane, to advantage. It is likewise an undoubted,
fact, that large portions of vacant land are to be!
found, well adapted to the culture of the cane.
The following quantities of sugar, brown, clayed,
and refined, were imported into the United States’
from Louisiana and the Floridas, viz. in the
year 1799-—773,542 pounds ; in the year 1800—.
1,560,887 pounds; in the year 1801—967,619
pounds, and in the year 1802—1,576,993 pounds.
The quantity produced in the succeeding years.
has probably been considerably increased. |

»

A

TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION

OF
RED RIVER.

Tuts river enters the Mississippi on the western
side, at the first great bend below Fort Adams,
about nine miles distant from the crossing of the
line of demarkation. It is large, and one of the
most beautiful rivers in Lower Louisiana. Its
waters are brackish, of a reddish colour, turbid,
and deposit a sediment collected from the red
banks, far up the river. The banks are overflowed

in the spring to a great extent, and in places to -

the depth of fifteen or eighteen feet. The fresh-
ets begin to fallin June, and by August the water
retires to the channel of the river and lagoons.
In the low lands the growth is principally willow
and cotton wood, and on the higher, large elms,
ash, and hickory ; where the grape vine greatly
abounds. About six miles from the mouth of

the river is abayau, leading from Lake Long, i
which is a narrow lake, two or three miles in

100

width, and fourteen or fifteen in length. Twenty-
five miles further up is the confluence of Black
river, which is large at its mouth, and coming
from a northerly direction. 7

The first settlement on Red river, called Ba-
ker’s station, at the commencement of Avoy elles
is about seventy miles from its mouth, as the river
rons, although not more than one third of the
distance, on a straight course. Above this station)
is a prairie thirty or forty miles in circumference.
It as entirely destitute of trees or shrubs, but:
produces an excellent grass for fattening cattle.|
The beef is said to be of an excellent quality, and)
hogs find ground nuts and other food, on which]
they thrive, and become good pork. The inhab-;
itants are settled in the outer skirts, on the border
of the woods. ‘This prairie has the appearance)
of a good soil, but is found to be too cold for!
cotton and Indian corn, which thrive much better)
on land where there has been a growth of wood.)
Little or no wheat is raised, as they have no mills!
to grind it. ‘Fhe inhabitants are a mixture of)
Spaniard, French, Irish, and Americans, who}
are generally poor, and extremely ignorant.

A few miles above this prairie, the land(
begins to be moderately hilly. Near the river,;
the timber is oak, hickory, and some pine, but;
back from the river the growth is mostly pine for)
thirty or forty miles. |

Holmes’ station is about forty miles above:
Baker’s, where there is a settlement. The land!

104

produces good cotton, corn, and tobacco. On the
south side of the river there is a large body of
rich land, extending, to Appalousa, which is
watered and drained by two large bayaus, called
bayau Robert:and bayau Beuf. Their waters are
very clear, and take their rise in the high lands
“betwen Red river and the Sabine. These waters
are discharged into the Chaffetis. It is believed
this body of land, which is forty miles square, in
richness of soil, growth of timber, goodness of
water, and convenience of navigation is equal
to any tract of land in this part of Louisiana.
From Holmes’ to bayau Rapide is thirty-five
miles, and for this distance there are only a few
scattered settlements on the right side of the
river, and none on the left. The right side is
preferred on account of the high lands, which are
most convenient for keeping stock. The lands
on the bayau Rapide, are nearly of the same
quality with the bayau Robert and bayau Beuf.
The two mouths of this bayau meet the river
about, twenty miles apart. The length of this
bayau is about thirty miles, forming a curvature
somewhat in the shape of ahalf moon. On its
back another bayau falls into it, of excellent
water, on which there isa saw mill. Boats can-
not pass round this curvature on the account of ob-
structions formed by rafts of timber, but can
ascend from the lower mouth more than half the
distance. On each side the lower mouth is the

principal settlement, called the Rapide settlement.
gx

162

Few countries exhibit a more delightful appear-
ance than this settlement. ‘The plantations are
extremely beautiful, and the soil exceedingly |
rich. The cotton raised here is of the best qual- ’
ity in Louisiana. The corn and tobacco are very
good, as are all kinds of vegetables. \The orange’
and fig trees grow luxuriously, and the climate is”
delightful.

At the Rapide is a fall of water, occasioned by
a soft rock which crosses the bed of the river, so
that from July to December there is not suffi-
cient water for boats to pass over, but the rest of
the season they pass with ease. This rock is so |
very soft, as not much to exceed, in_ hardness, '
some kinds of hard clay, and it is presumed a_
passage might be cut through it, with very little
difficulty, soas to make it as low as the bed of the’
river.

From the Rapide to the Indian villages is |
about twenty miles, with very few settlements for
the whole distance, although the land is fine, and
susceptible of all kind of cultivation. The Indian;
villages are pleasantly situated on both sides of
the river, and the land very good. Just above :
these villages is Gillard’s station, on an high pine
bluff, which, on the east side, overlooks extensive |
fields and meadows, in a good state of cultivation,
and affords a view of a very leng reach of the rivers
Here is an excellent spring of water, gushing out
from an aperture ina rock on the bank of the
river, about high water mark. Back from the

rs

108

ouse is a lake, which abounds with fish in sum-
mer, and fowl in the winter.
About six miles above Gillard’s is the village
of the Boluxa Indians, where the river divides
nto two branches, forming an island of about
fifty miles in length, and three or four in breadth.
The right hand stream is called Rigula de
Bondzeu, on which there are no settlements. On
the left hand is the boat channel to Natchitoches,
and on this branch, for twenty-four miles, there
are thick settlements, and the inhabitants wealthy.
This is called the River Cane settlement. h-
Above this settlement, the river divides again,

forming another Island of about thirty miles in
jength, and three or four in breadth, called Js/e
Brevel. This Island is subdivided by a bayau
which crosses the Island from one river to
the other, and is called Bayau Brevel. The
middle division of the river is called Little river,

and is the boat channel, where there are thick
‘settlements. The westward channel, called False

‘Yiver, is navigable, but the banks being very low, .
there are no settlements. The river passes wr
through a lake, called Lai Occasse. Above this
lake the three channels meet, where Natchitoches >»
is situated. The town is small, and meanly built, “
containing about forty er fifty houses, inhabited .
principally by French people.

' The fort, which is now called Fort Claiborn,
is on a small hill, forty rods from the river, con-
taining about two acres. This hill is wholly oc-

te

*

“+> ,
Ps

but a small degree removed from the state of the
‘savages, with whom they have had their princi-
pal intercourse.

trees.

river, have brackish and unpleasant water. There

in circumference.

104

cupied by the fort and barracks, and is elevated
thirty feet above the river banks. Natchitoches
is an ancient French settlement, which com-
menced nearly a century ago, where a trading
post was established, and an extensive traffic car
ried on with the Indians. This despicable village
is not on the site where the ancient town stood |
the present inhabitants, having been almost en
tirely secluded from the civilized world, have
degenerated to a miserable, ignorant set of beings

When a large trade was carried)
on with the natives, many years ago, the town!
was much larger than it is at present; the peo-
ple having left the town to settle on farms in the}
adjacent country, but principally on the long!
round, near the river. Very little now remains
to be seen of the old parts of the town, except
the form of their gardens, and a few ornamental]
There is one great inconvenience in set-!
tiling near Red river; the waters being never;
clear, and always brackish. Wells, sunk near the

are some tolerable springs, but the inhabitants|
are obliged principally to depend on rain water. |
Near Natchitoches are two large lakes, one aj
see» and the other six miles distant. One of thei
es is’ thirty, and the other fifty or sixty miles:
These lakes are connected
with the river by bayaus. When the water rises’

i i
.

105

in the river, it rushes into the lakes, and then
rushes back again, as the water falls in the river.
The immense number of fowl which abound in
these lakes, during the winter, almost exceeds
credibility. The air is darkened with the large
flights, especially near the close of the day 3 and
the ear almost stunned with the noise they make.
One man may kill many hundreds in an after-
noon. The hunter takes his station on a conven-
jent spot, and loads and fires as fast as possible,
without taking particular aim, until he finds he
has killed a sufficient number to load his horses,
These fowl are swan, geese, brant, and several
species of ducks. In the summer, several kinds
‘of fish are said to be equally plenty. The in-
‘dians, in taking fish, frequently make use only. of @&
the bow and arrow. With this instrument an —
Indian will often load his horse in a very short
time. The fish consist principally of the cat, pike,
buffaloe, sucker, and white and black perch, and
are generally of a very large size.

From Natchitoches there is a communication
with the frontiers of New Mexico. Here the
road leading to Saint a Fé leaves Red river, and
passes, in a westerly direction through the Span-
ish Province of Texes. The country is said to
consist of very extensive plains, abounding with
horses and cattle. Major Z. M. Pike, who was
sent, by the government to explore the head
waters of the Osage and Red river, was taken
by the Spaniards, and he and his party, as prison-

106

ers, Were conducted to Saint a Fé. He found
the city large and populous; the cotntry thickly
settled, and highly cultivated. When he was
liberated, he was conducted, on his return to the
United States, in a different route, througha coun-
try well filled with inhabitants and a number of
large cities.

At the distance of about ten miles above
Natchitoches, there is another lake which is on
the northeast side of Red river, called Noiz, and
is about fifty miles in circumference. The bayau
or outlet of this lake communicates with Rigula
de Bondieu. The bayau Rigula de Bondieu en:
ters Red river about three miles above Natchito-
ches. Near the lake Noiz, all the salt used on
Red river is made. This large quantity of salt,
until lately, was made by only two men, and with
afew potsand kettels. It is now better worked,
but not to a hundredth part of the extent to which
it might be carried. The water is so highly im-
pregnated with salt as to require very little boiling,
The conveyance of the salt to market is easy, as
the bayau is boatable most of the year into the
lake.

Where the bayau communicates, Red river is
in one channel, and here the settlement of Grand
Ecore comme nces, extending about six miles.
Stone coal is found near this settlement, and some
fine springs of water issue from the banks of the
river. About one mile above Grand Ecore, on
the left side of the river comes in a large bayau

107

om the Spanish lake, so called. This lake is
bout fifty miles in circumference, and rises and
alls with the river, in the same manner as the
akes near Natchitoches. Two miles above this
bayau the river is divided into two streams. The
sourse of the west branch is westerly for nearly
ighty miles, where it turns to the eastward, and
ommunicates with the right branch, forming an
‘sland one hundred miles long, and in some parts
of it thirty miles wide. ‘The upper end of this
ranch is so choaked up with drift’ wood that
oats cannot pass. Settlements, of entirely French
eople, extend nearly the whole length of this
oranch, called bayau Peir settlements. The land
s fertile, and the scattered inhabitants possess
arge herds of cattle, and appear to live very well.
The face of this tract of country is moderately
hilly, and the water very good. Some miles west-
ward, towards the Sabine river, is a saline, where
they procure their salt.

_ On the main, or eastern branch of the river,
there are a few scattered settlements, including
one called Camti. The land on this branch is
similar to that on the other, excepting that near
‘Camti, it is much intersected and broken by
bayaus. The land at the upper part of these set-
tlements is considered not inferior to any on the
Red river. The computed distance from the
mouth of Red river is one hundred and forty
miles, and between thirty and forty from Natchi-
toches. At the upper houses the great jam of

108

drifted timber begins, choaking up the river, a!
intermediate places, which are frequently several
leagues apart, for one hundred miles. — The
stream is extremely crooked, and the low lands
which are rich, extend to a great width on each
side. Although the river is so obstructed, boats
of any size can ascend in a bayau most of thé
year. This is called bayau Channo, leading inte
lake Baftino, at the distance of about three miles
from where it leaves the river. This lake is about
sixty miles in length, and is nearly parallel wit
the river. A communication with the river is!
formed at the upper end, by a bayau, called
Daichet. ‘This passage is much shorter than
follow the meanders of the river. From thig
bayau to the mountains the river is free of ob4
structions. ;

Nearly eighty miles above bayau Daichet ig
the Caddo old town. Thelands for this distance!
are rich, consisting of high bottom, which is!
widely extended from the river. The Caddo old
towns consist of a number of villages built onal
large prairie, in the midst of which is a lake off
about five miles in circumference, without any,
stream running in, or out of it. The water is sé
perfectly limpid, and the bottom so clear, that
the fish may be distinctly seen, at the depth off
fifteen or twenty feet. On this prairie, and not
far from the lake, is an eminence to which the
Indians pay-great veneration. They have a tras
dition, that the Great Spirit, having determined

108

to deluge the earth with water, and drown ail the
peeple upon it, selected one Caddo family, and
placed it on this eminence. The water not rising
so high as the top of it, this family was saved,
when all the rest of the people in the world were
destroyed ; and from this family all the Indian
nations are descendants. Not only the Caddos,
but all the other bands of Indians, pay homage
_to this eminence, when they pass it. The neigh-
bouring bands consider the Caddoquies their
common father, and treat them with respect.
Their number of . warriors do not much exceed
‘one hundred men, but they brave death with the
utmost fortitude, and boast that they have never
embrued their hands in the blood of a white man.
They carry on an incessant warfare with the
Osage and Chicktaw nations, but live in peace
with the other bands.

' From the Caddo old towns to the Panis vil-
lages, following the course of the river, which is
nearly west, is about seven hundred miles; the
land alternately clothed with timber and prairie,
‘and some of the prairies very extensive. Ona
branch of Red river, which comes in about one
hundred and thirty miles below the Panis towns,
it is said, silver mines have been lately discov-
ered; and just below the first village, the Ra-
Bb. ciactih or the Missouri branch of Red river,
enters from the north; which is a large stream,

and the water so brackish ,that it cannot be drank. -
At its head waters, the Indians collect large

in

110

ri

lumps of rockwalt. From the Panis villages to’
the head of Red river the land is broken and.
mountainous, and wholly destitute of wood, ex,
cepting willows and small cotton wood. trees on.
the borders of the streams. The Indians report:
that there are many silver mines among these’
mountains, of which the white people have no)
knowledge. .
The Panis or Towiache Indians, who reside on.
these waters, were once powerful, but are re-'
duced to about four hundred warriors. They.
live in villages, and have large numbers of horses
and mules, and raise corn, tobacco, beans,
squashes, and pumpkins. They cut the pump-
kins into long, narrow strips, as is sometimes |
done by white people, to dry them. When they
are sufficiently wilted to be tough, they weave.
them into mats.» These mats, with the other pro- |
ductions they raise, they sell to the roving bands
of the Hietan Indians, who rove in the plains |
and mountains between Red river and Saint a}
Fé, but never live in villages. The Hietans)
wear these mats over their shoulders ; -and, as’
they travel, cut off pieces and eat, until they have.
devoured their mats. ‘These commodities the
Panis exchange for buffaloe robes, horses, and:
mules. Although their country abounds with
game, they are not esteemed good hunters.)
Having few guns, they depend on their bows and
arrows. The buffaloe, deer, bear, antelope, and!
wild hogs, are in great plenty ; but they live

111

principally on buffaloe meat, and rarely kill a
deer. The men go naked, except their breech
flap, and the women wear only a short coat of
dressed leather, tied round \the waist. These
‘Indians are at perpetual war with the Osage
Nation.

Black river, a large branch of Red river, has
already been mentioned. Coming from a north-
ern direction, it enters Red river about thirty

‘miles above its mouth. The course of Black
fiver is nearly parallel with Mississippi, at a dis-
stance of about forty miles. Between these riv-
‘ers the land is overflowed when the Mississippi is
high. Atthe time this immense cypress swamp
is flooded, it exhibits the appearance of a vast
number of large trees, standing ina lake, ora
bay of the sea. The name of black river, at the
distance of sixty miles, is changed, and it is then
called the Washata river. Here the course of
the river tends to the -westward, and the land
becomes sufficiently high to admit of cultivation
near the bank of the river. At the mouth of the
Washata, and near lake Cattahoola, is a small
settlement, where the settlers have raised an em-
bankment to prevent inundation when the water
is high. Above this settlement, at the distance
of about one hundred and seventy miles, is an ex-

4

cellent tract of land, extending on the river, about
ferty miles. Here the much famed Aaron
‘Burr pretended to have made an extensive pur-
chase ; to commence-the settlement was the osten-

112

sible object for which he raised his army, and!
descended the Mississippi. After his progress.
was arrested, it is said, a small number of his.
men went into the ground, but remained only a)
short time. This tract is high prairie, interspersed |
with wood land ; the soil is exceedingly rich, and’
the face of the county delightful. Some. few
settlements have been made upon it, and are
extended still further up, where there is a small.
fort. 4

Bat, the people are extremely indolent, and
having contracted the habits of the Indians, had |
rather hunt than cultivate the soil. At the head |
waters of the Washata are the famous hot
springs, of which much has been said, which,
with many, exceeds credibility. It is asserted by
ihese who have visited them, that meat held in
them a short time will be sufficiently cooked for |
eating. The land where they are found is barren, |
hilly, and broken, but there are no volcanic ap- |
pearances. Loud explosions are frequently heard |
among the hulggsomewhat resembling the blowing |
of rocks with gun powder. These noises, the :
Indians say, are made by the spirits of white peo- |
ple, working in the hills, in search of silver and |
gold mines,

Between the heads of branches which enter |
Red river, and those which run into the Arkan- |
sas, is arange of high and impassable mountains, -
which extend to the great prairies, eastward of |
the waters of the Osage river. It is said, a gold

1138

mine has been discovered north of these moun-
tains, on a branch of the Arkansas _ river.
Indians and hunters likewise report, that in
these mountains there are several silver mines. .

It has been already mentioned, that Ozark
Post and village is on the Arkansas, fifty miles
above its mouth. At this post an Ensign’s com-
mand is stationed, which is a detachment from
the Captain’s company, at Fort Pickering. The
‘village contains about sixty families, chiefly
hunters and traders; many of them the mixed
‘breed of Indian and white, and all of them intol-
erably lazy and indolent. But the soilis exceed-
ingly rich, producing every thing committed to it
in great luxuriance. Twelve miles above this:
‘station is the village of Ozark, or Arkansas In-
dians, and six miles further are two more large
villages. Their warriors are computed at one
hundred and thirty, and about seven hundred in-
habitants. They are friendly to all nations, ex-
cept the Osage. Although they speak the same
Janguage, they are at perpetual war with each
other. There are some sraaller villages father
up; and at the distance of about forty or fifty
miles, the hills begin to rise on the south side 3,
and about three hundred miles further, they be-~
come lofty, inaccessible mountains.

‘On the head waters of the Arkansas, a band of
Osage Indians reside, who have separated from:
that nation on the Osage river. Their village is.
large, and their hunting ground a most excellent
10*

y

of the branches of these rivers nearly interlock

114

tract of high prairie, interspersed with groves of
timber. It has a deep, rich soil, and abounds
With a great variety of wild game. They are’
enemies to all the other nations except the little
Osage band ; none venture to settle near them, or
presume to enter upon their hunting ground.)
The ridge of mountains between Arkansas and Red.
river, form a barrier to the Caddos, and the small.
nations who rised on those waters; but they
sometimes make excursions round the mountains, |
and descend Red river, spreading terror and dep-.
redation among those tribes. :

The widely-extended, tributary streams of Red’
river, “Arkansas, and Osage, extend. into, and.
water an immense tract of country; and some

with each other. The head waters of the Osage |
river take their rise at no great distance from
those of Red river. The general course of the!
Osage is nearly north) which, after running
through, perhaps, the finest tract of country, east)
of the rocky mountains, for more than six hun-'
dred miles, enters the Missouri river, about two:
hundred miles above its mouth.

The immensely extended prairies commence |
about forty or fifty miles above the mouth of the:
Osage, on the western side.. They generally ap-_
proach to alevel, but in some parts rise into
swelling hills, destitute of wood; in some parts’
are small copses of wood; in others, forests of
considerable extent; and usually the streams off

;
\

eae

1135

‘water are bordered with a large growth. On
some of the streams, the beautiful wood called
Bois jaun, or yellow wood, has been found.

The Osage nation of Indians reside principally
on this river. Their first villages commence
about two hundred miles from its mouth. They
are divided into two parties, called the Little and
Great Osage, and live in different villages. The
‘Little Osage nation, although derived from the
Great Osage, formerly lived in villages at the
mouth of Grand river, on the Missouri; but
being exceedingly harrassed by the Sioux, and
other tribes, removed up the Osage river, and
placed themselves under the protection of the
Great Osage. Their villages are the first, in as~

cending the river, and at a small distance beyond

them, commences ‘the villages of the Great
“Osage.

The Osage nation is one of the largest and
most formidable, which has yet been discovered
in these western regions. Their warriors, inclu-

ding the Little and Great Osage, are computed >

to amount to two thousand, and about eight thous-
and souls. They are remarkably tall, large, and
ferocious. They are erect, well proportioned,
and many of them measure six feet and two or
three inches. They are expert hunters, and con-
sidered the best warriors in the western country.
Being constantly at war with every tribe, without
‘distinction, their very name carries terror with it
into every other nation. They are generally

vs

et

116

equally inimical to white people, which has been
often witnessed by their attacks on the settlements
at Saint Louis, the lead mines, and Saint Gen-
evieve. They never fall upon these settle-—
ments without making great depredations, and
mostly get off without suffering much injury them-_
selves. - But the traders, when they have once’
entered their villages, are perfectly safe, and are’
treated with much respect and hospitality while
there. Sometimes, however, in going and.
returning, they will fall upon, and rob them.
Although they are great hunters and. distin- ‘
guished warriors, and often ramble far in these
excursions, they live in Villages, and raise corn, |
beans, squashes, pumpkins, and melons. They |
are proud and overbearing, viewing all other
nations with contempt. In: their war expeditions, |
they are courageous, patient, and persevering ;
enduring great fatigue and hardship with the ut-
most fortitude. They delight so much in blood, :
that no sufferings are too great to encounter, if it |
be necessary in making their attacks upon their |
enemy by surprise.. ‘They genérally kill all their ;
prisoners, except the children; and these they |

will sometimes adopt as their own. No nation

has been so able to withstand them, as the roving”

- bands of the Sioux. Having no settled villages,

they are always prepared for war, and encounter |
their enemy to more advantage. They sometimes |
engage in offensive wars, and venture to make |
attacks on the Osage villages.

vee

117

The complexion of the Osage nation is between
an olive and copper colour; their eyes dark
brown; their noses large and aquiline, and. their
hair black, straight, and course. The men pluck
out, or shave off, all the hair upon their heads,
except a lock upon the crown, which they permit
to grow its full length. They sometimes per-
forate the cartilage of the nose, in which they hang
a drop, similar to an ear drop, and bore their ears
nearly round to the top, in which they place a
large number of silver ear-rings. They weara
breech flap fastened around the waist with a belt ;
a pair of leggins, and shoes or moceasons. These
are made of dressed buffaloe or deer skin, and
fancifully worked and ornamented with lead and
porcupine quills, stained with different colours. —
‘A bufaloe robe, which is the skin dressed with
‘the hair on, is worn over the shoulders, and

serves for acloak by day, and-for a bed and cov-

ering by night. In the summer this robe is laid
by, and they go naked, except the breech flap and

‘leggins.

_ The women are de and well proportioned,

rather inclined to corpulency ; their faces oval ;

cheek bones somewhat high ; but the features are

regular, and not destitute of beauty. Their un-
der garment is dressed leather, silk, or calico,

without sleeves,and coming down below the knees.

About the neck it is decorated with a large num-

ber of silver brooches. Their leggins and moc-

‘casons are similar to those of the men. ‘Their

-
LI -
ee

; a. # out. They have only one door, which is

ae ae 8

hair is long, and neatly tied up, forming a club
behind, Broad silver clasps are worn on their
arms, wrists and ankles. They we like the:
men, wear a buffaloe robe. ;
Their villages are built along the banks of the,
river. The houses stand in two rows, on a.
straight line, with a wide street between them,
They build their houses with split logs, laid up in!
a neat manner, and cover them with split boards.’
They are generally about ten or twelve feet wide,
and from twenty to forty feet long; and some of
the chiefs have them sixty feet in length. The!
height i is from eight to ten feet; and having no_
* m window or chimney, they have an aperture at,
, the top for the light to come in, and the smoke to.
‘usually closed with a buffaloe skin. These peo-
ple live ain a more neat and cleanly manner
than is common among these western tribes.

The Osage nation claim ‘an extensive country:
for their hunting ground, and do not admit the:
other nations to make encroachments upon it. “Ft
abounds with all the wild game common to this
country ; such asthe elk, buffaloe, dear,bear,-wolf,
cabree, or antelope, ground hog, beaver, atter, |
and mink.

The title of their chiefs is hereditary. -The
great chief assumes authority over those of an ins |
ferior grade; and his power in\many respects is
dispotic. Buthe dare not engage /in any evead
enterprize, nor make) war or peace, without sala

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119

: council of the subordinate chiefs and warriors.
'To this council he states his object, and explains
his views and intentions; and if a general
assent be not given, he lays aside his project.

_ These people believe in a supreme power,
whom they call the Great Spirit. To him they
Attribute every good they enjoy, and consider it as
his gift. But they render homage to another
Spirit, subordinate to the Great Spirit, who is the
author of all the evil and misfortune they suffer.
By appeasing his wrath, they hope to escape the
troubles with which he might be: disposed to visit
them. They haye also many other inferior dei-
ties, which they conceive have powerto do them
igood or evil. They believe, if they are faithful

Pwarriors and good hunters, that when they die,
‘they shall go to a most delightful country, which
jabounds in game; where there-will be perpetual
}day ; a bright sun and clear sky; when they will
‘meet their old friends ; and where they will enjoy
every pleasure they were fond of here, without in-
terruption. But that those who are bad_ here,
especially those who are ungrateful to the aged,
when they die, will go toa place of punishment,
‘where they will suffer the severést privations, and
be denied every thing that was pleasant or desir-
able in this life. But the traders say, it is with
‘preat di ficulty they can be prevailed upon to con-
gyerse at all on these subjects. The French made
cubed attempts to intreduce Missionaries

‘to their mation and kind to their relatives, good

120

among them, but could not succeed. There is
said to be one remarkable traitin the character of
the Osage Indians, in which they differ, perhaps,
from all other tribes ; they are extremely averse
to ardent spirit, and few of them can be persuaded
to taste it.
Below the Great Osage, on the waters of the
Little Osage, Saint Francis, and other streams,
are a number of scattered bands of Indians, and
two or three considerable villages. These bands
were principally Indians, who were formerly out-.
casts from the tribes east. of the Mississippi.
Numbers have since joined from the Delawares,
Shawanoes, Wayondott and other tribes towards!
the lakes. Their warriors are said to be five or
sixhundred. They have sometimes made excur-
sions and done mischief on the Ohio river, but
the settlements, on the Mississippi have suffered
the most severely by their depredations.

c A

CONCISE ACCOUNT

OF THE

INDIAN NATIONS,

WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI, TO THE ROCKY

+

4 MOUNTAINS. | ye

SLirtre has been known of these nations until

very lately. The following information is prin-

cipally derived from the accounts given of them
by Captain Lewis, when on his tour to the western
oceah, communicated to the President of the

United States ;" and by Dr. John Sibley, in his

communications, from Natchetoches, to the Sec-
retary of ware The advantages these gentlemen
possessed for obtaining knowledge of theirnames,
situations, numbers, and other circumstances

respecting them, have been better than those of

any others ; and their accounts are undoubtedly
the best that can at present be obtained.
The Osage nation has already been described.

“The nation residing next to the Osage, on the

“waters of the Missouri, is the Kanzas. Their
‘village is on the Kanzas river, about eighty leagues
44

~— “¢

122

from its mouth. This river comes from the

south, meanders, for a great distance, through a

fine, rich country, and is two hundred and fifty

yards wide, where it enters the Missouri. The

Kanzas have about three hundred warriors and

thirteen hundred souls. They are commonly at

war with all nations, except the Ottoes, with

whom they have intermarriages. ‘The limits of

the country they claim is unknown; they hunt

on the upper part of the Kanzas and Arkansas

rivers. They live in their villages, from about

the fifteenth of March to fifteenth of May, and

again from the fifteenth of August to the fifteenth ©
of October ; the rest of the year they devote to
hunting. At present, they are a dissolute,
lawless, banditti; frequently plundering traders,
and committing depredation on people ascending

and descending the Missouri.

The Missouri nation live on the south side
of the river Plate, fifteen leagues from its mouth.
‘They are the remnant of the most numerous ne-
tion, inhabiting the Missouri when first known to
the French. Their ancient principal village was
situated in an extensive plain, on the northern *
bank of the Missouri, just below the mouth of
Grand river. Frequent wars with the Saukees_
and Renars, and repeated attacks of the small
pox, have reduced them to about eighty warriors, ,
and a state of dependance on the Ottoes. They .
are about three hundred souls. They have a just |

claim to an extensive and fertile Some and ee

. é

\ of

123

reside in the same village with the Ottoes, and
accompany them in their hunting excursions.
» The Ottoes, with whom the Missouries reside,

‘were descendants from that nation, but now view

them as their inferiors, and sometimes treat them

with abuse. They have about one hundred and
‘twenty warriors, and five hundred souls; claim

no exclusive possession, and hunt on the Saline
and Nimmehaw rivers, and the plains which are
westward of them. Their hunting and cultivating
the ground is similar to that of the Kanzas and

) Osage. They raise corn, beapis, squashes, pump-
kins, and tobacco. These two nations are at war

with the Great and Little Osage, Mahas, Poncars, _
Sioux, Kanzas, and Loups; and at peace with

the Panis proper, Saukees, and Ranars.

The Panis proper, reside on the same river,

fifteen leagues further up, on the south side.

Their number of warriors is four hundred, and

about sixteen hundred people. Their hunting

ground extends over fertile, well watered plains,
interspersed with groves of timber, especially

along the water courses, and abounding with
game. They are friendly and hospitable to white

people ; pay great respect to traders, with whom

they are punctual in the payment of their debts.

‘They cultivate corn, beans, melons, pumpkins,

and tobacco. They are at war with the Great
and Little Osage, Panis pique, Kanzas, La Play,

‘Sioux, and Ricaras ; and at peace with the Loups,
| Mahas, Poncars, Ottoes, and Ayauwais. «=

is

124:

The Panis republican, or Big Paunch, is a
band which has separated from the Panis proper,
and established a village on a branch of the Kan-
zas river; but being harassed by their trouble-
some neighbours, the Kanzas, they have united
themselves again with the Panis proper. They
have three hundred warriors, and fourteen hun-
dred souls. ‘

Another branch of the Panis proper, is the
Panis Loups, or Wolves. They live on Wolf
river, which enters into the river Plate. They
hunt@on Wolf river above their village, and on |
the river Plate, between Wolf and the river Corn
de Cerf, or Elkhorn. They are rarely visited by’
traders, and carry their firs and. peltry to the vil-
lage of Panis proper. They cultivate corn, beans,
and other vegetables... They have two hundred
and eighty warriors, and are at war with all other
nations near their excursions, except the Panis.
proper and Panis republican or Big Paunch.~
They consist of about one thousand people. |

The Mahas was a powerful nation until lately,
residing on the west bank of the Missouri, two
hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of the
Plate river. They could boast seven hundred |
warriors, were warlike, and aterror totheir neigh- ||
bours. But in the autumn of 1802, they were
visited by the small pox, which made such ray-
ages among them, as to reduce their warriors to
less than three hundred, and to about six hundred

-— ee. Fe. eee SO | eee,

125

to burn their village and become a- wandering
people. They were then deserted by traders ;
and a deficiency of arms and ammunitions, invited
agerescion from their neighbours, which further
reduced them to one hundred and fifty warriors.

Wolf river, and ‘on the river Quicurre, or Rapid
river. This country is high, level, and open,
well watered, and a good soil. They are good
‘hunters, and well disposed towards the whites.
“They were lately attacked by the Tetons Bois

~ Poncars are the remnant of a nation, once res-
-pectable for its numbers. Their former residence
was on a branch of the Red river, of Lake Win-
Ripie; but being.oppressed by the Sioux, they
‘yemoved to the southward, and took up their res-.
‘idence on Poncar river, west of the Missouri,
where they built and fortified a village, andyre-
mained some years. At length their implacable®
enemy, the Sioux, pursued them ; reduced them,
to about fifty warriors, and two hundred people ;
and compelled them to join and reside with the
Mahas, whose language they speak.

The Ricaras are the remains of ten large tribes
of the Panis, who have been reduced by the small
pox and the Sioux, to about five hundred warri-
ers, and two thousand souls, They live in for-

tified villages, claimno land, except that on whic
their villages stand, and the fields they improve

and. punt immediately in their own neighbour |

a ces 1:1
ra 3 ip

Fe

They rove principally on the head waters of

Brule, who killed and took about sixty of them. .

iM i d 4
f “4 se
a ‘

’

Said

hood. ‘The country in every direction around |
them, for several hundred miles, is entirely bare.
of timber, except on the water courses and steep
declivities of hills, where it is sheltered from the
ravages of fre. The remains of the ancient vil- |
lages of these people are to be seen on many parts’
of the Missouri, from the mouth of the Tetone
river, to the Mandans. The rapacious Sioux |
Tetons, rob them of their horses, plunder their
gardens} and fields, and sometimes murder them —
without opposition, claim the country around |
them, although they are the oldest inhabitants, |
and treat'them as merely tenants at will. Still |
they maintain a partial trade with their oppressors, |
the Tetons, to whom they barter horses, corn, |
beans, and’a species of tobacco which they cultix |
vate, and receive in return guns, ammunition, ;
kettles, axes, and other ‘articles, brought from the |
tiver Saint Peters. The Ricaras obtain these.
horses and mules from their western neighbours,”
who frequently visit them for the purpose of |
traffic. : ear
The Mandans, consisting of three hundred and |
fifty warriors, and twelve hundred and fifty inhab- .
itants, are the most friendly, and well disposed |
Indians who live on the Missouri. They are :
brave, humane, and hospitable. Several years -
ago they lived in six villages, about forty miles -
below their present towns. From repeated visit-.
z io of the small pox, and the frequent attacks
of the Sioux, they have been reduced to their

/ . ae
X

127

‘present number. They live in fortified villages ;

claim no particular tract of country ; hunt only

in their own neighbourhood ; raise corn, beans,

melons, squashes, pumpkins, and tobacco. ‘They

barter these articles, and horses and mules, with

their neighbours, the Assinniboins, for guns, am-

munition, axes, kettles, and many other articles,

which are purchased of the Canadian traders, on
the Assinniboin river. The traders themselves

frequently bring their merchandise to them. The
_Mandans, again, exchange the articles thus ob-

_——

_

tained, for horses, leather tents, furs, and peltry,

with the Crow Indians, and many other nations,

who visit them for the purpose of traffic. The

trade carried on, at these villages, gives them |

some resemblance of mercantile towns. They uv

_ reside on both sides of the Missouri, about sixteen
Shundved miles from its mouth.

The Ah-wah-ha-wa, or Gens de Soulier,. is a

small nation, very little different from the
~ Mandans, excepting that they carry on a constant

‘and unjust warfare with the defenceless Snake

Indians. ‘They have fifty warriors, and two hun-
dred inhabitants. Their village is only three
miles above the Mandans, on the south side of
the Missouri. They claim to have been a part

of the Crow Indians, whom they still acknowl-

edge as relation, but have resided. on the Mis-.
souri, as long back as their tradition extends.
The Minetares, or Gross Ventres, is a large

“nation; consisting of six hundred warriors, and

128

two thousand five hundred souls. They claim
no particular country, nor assign themselves any
limits; their tradition is that they have always
resided in their present villages. Their customs,
manners, and dispositions, are similar to the —
Mandans. Their villages are-on both sides of
Knife river, near the Missouri, five miles above
the Mandans. On account of the scarcity of —
wood, they leave their villages in thé cold season,
and reside in large bands, in camps, on different
parts of the Missouri, as high up as Yellow Stone
river, and west of their villages, about Turtle
mountain. These people have suffered by the
small pox, but have been able to resist the attacks
of the Sioux.

The Ayauwais nation, reside forty leagues up
the river Demoin, and consist of two hundred
warriors, and about eight hundred souls. . They
are descendants from the ancient Missouri, and
claim the country west of them to the Missouri,
and to the boundary of the Saukees and Foxes ;
are a turbulent savage people, who frequently
abuse their traders, and commit depredations on
those who are ascending and descending the Mis-
Sour.

Saukees and Ranars or Foxes, are two nations
so nearly consolidated into one, that they may be
considered as the same people. They speak the
same language, and live near together, on the
west side of the Mississippi, one hundred and
forty leagues above Saint Louis. Formerly they —

129

lived on the east side of the Mississippi, and still
claim the land between the Ouiseonsin and Illi-
nois rivers. They frequently hunt west of
them, towards the Missouri, but consider both
sides of the Mississippi their hunting ground.
The Saukees have about five hundred warriors,
and two thousand souls; the Foxes three hundred
warriors, and twelve hundred souls. They raise
large quantities of corn, beans, and melons. They
are extremely friendly to the whites, but implaca-
ble enemies to those Indians with whom they are
fat war. |

The Sioux isa large nation, but divided into
‘many independent bands. They retain the com-
mon appellation of Sioux, but each band has its
appropriate name. ‘The number of warriors is
two thousand five hundred and ninety, and seven
thousand six hundred and ten souls. They are
froving bands, without any fixed habitations for
any considerable time, and are generally at war
‘with most of the other Indian nations. They
claim, as their hunting ground, a very extensive
‘country, on the waters of the Missouri and Mis-
sissippi- The following are the priucipal bands,
Wahpatone band rove on the northwest side
of Saint Peters, to the mouth of Chippeway river,
and on the head waters of the Mississippi, in-
cluding the Crow-wing river. Their lands are
fertile and generally well timbered. They are
only stationary. at their village, while the traders
are with them, which is commonly from October,

=

2

sissippi. They live in tents of dressed leather;

to March; treat them with respect, and seldom
attempt to rob them. |

Mindawawarcarton band extend their hunting
ground from the mouth of the Saint Peters, to
the Crow-wing river, on both sides of the Mis-

which they transport by means of horses and dogs,
and ramble from place to place during the greater
part of the year; and yet are the only band of
the Sioux, who cultivate corn, beans, and other
vegetables. Their land is level, fertile, and well
watered. To their own traders they are friendly,,
but inveterate to those who carry merchandise to:
their enemies, the Chippeways.

Wahpacoota band rove in the country west of
Saint Peters, froma place called Hardwood to
the mouth of the Yellow Medicine river: never
stationary only when their traders are with them,
which is not at any fixed time; a great portion!
of their country is open plains, and_ tolerably;
fertile. They barter the articles they receive’
from the traders, with the Yanktons and Tetons, }
who live west of them, for horses, robes, ate
leather tents or lodges.

Sissatone band hunt on Saint Peters and upper’
portions of Red river of Lake Winnipie, which
is a level, plain, fertile country, free of stones,|
and intersected with small lakes. It abounds:
with fur animals, the beaver, otter, and marten,’
which enables them to purchase more merchan- |
dise, in proportion to their number, than their

neighbours. An Indian fair is attended im the
month of May, at a place agreed upon, on the
waters of James river, where this band repair and
meet the Tetons, Yanktons of the North, and
“Ahnah. Here a considerable traffic is carried on,
and merchandise exchanged for horses and other
articles. These people are devoted to the inter-
sts of their traders.

Yanktons of the North mhabit a country hie
is almost one entire plain, destitute of wood, but
a good soil and well watered.

Yanktons Ahnah are considered the best dis-
posed Sioux, who rove on the banks of the Mis-
souri; but they will suffer no trader to ascend the
river if they can prevent it: they arrest the pro-
gress of all they meet with, and generally compel
them to sell their merchandise at a price very
early what they themselves fix upon it; but they
do not often commit any other acts of violence
fon the whites. Their country is very fertile,
consisting of wood land and prairie.

» Tetons Bois Brule,Tetons Okandandas, Tetons
Minnakineazzo, and Tetons Sahone are four
bands which rove over a country, almost entirely
level, where a tree is scarcely to be seen, unless
it be by water courses, or steep declivities of a
small number of hills. Itis from this country
that the Missouri derives most of its colouring
‘matter ; the earth is strongly impregnated with
glauber salts, allum, copperas, and sulphur, and
when saturated with water, large bodies of the

132

hills are precipitated into the river. On this ace
count the waters of the Missouri have a purga-
tive effect on those who are not accustomed to’
use them. These four bands are the pirates of]
the Missouri, and considered the vilest miscre-,
ants of the savage race. "They receive their reg-|
ular supply of merchandise from the river Saint!
Peters, and treat the traders on the Missouri
with the utmost contempt, whom they never fail’
to plunder, when it is in their power. Supplica-:
tion, or submission renders them the more rapa-
cious. They say, the worse they treat the tra-’
ders, the more merchandise they will bring’
them, and will dispose of their articles on the:
better terms. |

The Chyennes, la Chien Indians are the rem-
nant of a nation once respectable for their num-
bers ; formerly resided on a branch of Red river
of Lake Winnipie, which still is calied la Chieon, |
or Dog river. Oppressed by the Sioux, they re-'
moved to the west side of the Missouri, about,
fifteen miles below the mouth of Warricunne!
creek, where they built and fortified a village,
but being pursued by their ancient enemies, the
Sioux, they fled to the Black Hills, about the head
of Chien river, where they wander in quest of
the buffaloe, having no fixed residence. Their,
number of watviors is computed to be about three
hundred, and about twelve hundred souls. They
donot cultivate, ,but bring to market buffaloe

183

yobes of the best quality, and are well disposed
towards the whites.

The We-te-pa-ha-to or Wetepahatoes are a
wandering nation, live on the Paduca fork of the
tiver Plate, im an open country; and raise a
‘great number of horses, which they barter to the
Ricaras, Mandans and other nations, for articles
of European Manufactures. Including the
_Kiawas who often live with them, they have about
two hundred warriors, and seven hundred souls.
They are a well disposed people, are at peace
‘with all their wandering neighbours, to the west,
‘and particularly with the Ricaras, Mandans,
Minetares, and Ahwahhaways, whom they occa-
sionally visit for the purpose of traffic, but have a
defensive war with the Sioux.

The Kiawas do not materially differ from the
Wetepahatoes, who live near, and often with them,
in perfect friendship.

The Kenenavish, or Gens de Vachs, reside on
the heads of the Paduca’s forks of the River Plate,
and on the forks of the Chien river. They rove
‘in an open country, like that of the Wetepaha-
toes, and carry on the same traffic. Their num-

ber is about four hundred warriors, and fifteen
hundred souls.

The Staetan, or Kités, reside on the head wa-
ters of the Chien river, and frequently with the
Kenenavish ; and very nearly resemble them in
all respects. They consist of about one hundred
warriors, and four hundred. Benple,

12

«!

134

The Kata is a small nation, who have only .

about seventy-five warriors, and three hundred
souls. They live between the head waters of the
north and south forks of the River Chien.

The Nemausin, or allebome, are a small peo-
ple, having about fifty warriors, and two hun-
dred souls, and are on the head waters of north

fork of Chien river. The principal difference —
between this nation and the Wetepahatoes, Kia- —
was, Staetan, and Kataha is, that they never visit |

the Ricaras, but carry on. defensive war with
them and the Sioux.
The Dotame is a still smaller nation, having

only thirty warriors, and about one hundred »

and twenty people, inhabiting the heads of the
river Chien. They wander over an open country ;
raise great numbers of horses and mules; are a
friendly, well disposed people. |

The Castahana is a larger nation, who live be-
tween the sources of the Padoca’s forks of the

rivers Plate and Yellow Stone. They have

thirteen hundred warriors, and five thousand
souls. Like the Dotame, rove in an open country,
and raise’ great numbers of horses and mules ;
are friendly and peaceable, but have a defensive
war with the Sioux and Assinniboins.

The Kee-hat-sa, or Crow Indians, or Gens-des
Corbeau is large, having nine hundred warriors,

and three thousand five hundred people. They.
‘live on each side of the river Yellow Stone, about

the mouth of Big-hom river. Their country is

135

said to be fertile, well watered, and in most parts
well timbered. ‘These people are divided into
four bands, called by themselves, Ahah-ar-ro-pir-
no-pah, Noo-ta, Pa-rees-car, and E-hart-sar.
“They annually visit the Mandans, »Minetares,
-and Ahwahaways, to whom they barter horses,
mules, leather lodges, and many articles of Indian
apparel, for which they receive guns, ammunition,
axes, kettles, awls, and other European manu-
factures. When they return to their country,
they are, in turn, visited by the Paunch and
“Snake Indians, to whom they barter most of the
“articles they have obtained from the nations on
the Missouri, for horses and mules, of which
those nations have a greater abundance than
themselves. They also obtain of the Snake In-
dians, bridle bits, blankets and some other arti-
cles, which those Indians purchase. of thé Span-
iards. : we
The Al-la-ka-we-ah, or Paunch Indians, or
Gens de Panse, reside on each side of the Yellow
Stone river, near the Rocky Mountains, and
heads of the Big-horn river. They have eight
hundred warriors, and two thousand three hundred
souls. These are said to bea peaceable, . well
disposed nation. Their country is variegated,
consisting of mountains, vallies, plains, and wood
lands, irregularly interspersed. These people, as
well as the Crow Indians, inhabit a country, |
which produces an abundance of the most yalua:

136

ble furred animals. They are rovers, and have no
idea of exclusive right to the soil.

The’ Assinniboin nation consists of three bands,
who, like the bands of the Sioux, are entirely in-
dependent, one of the other ; they claim a national
affinity, and never go to war with each other.
They are the descendants of the Sioux, and par-
take of their turbulent and faithless disposition ;
frequently plundering, and sometimes murdering
their own traders. The name by which this na-
tion is generally known, was borrowed from the
Chippeways, who call them Assinniboin, which
signifies Stone Sioux, and are sometimes called
Stone Indians.

Manetopa band, or Gens des Canoe, live on
Mouse river, between the Assinniboin and the
Missouri. hey have twe hundred warriors, and
seven hundred and fifty souls. ‘They do not cul-
tivate ; but dispose of buffaloe robes, tallow,
dried and pounded mint, and grease, skins of the
large and small fox, small and large wolves, ante-
lopes, or cabree, and elk in great abundance’; some
brown, white, and grizzly bear, deer and.lynx. ~

Oseegah band, or Gens des Tee, consist of two
hundred and fifty warriors, and eight hundred
and fifty people ; reside about the mouth of the
Little Missouri, and on the Assinniboin, at the
mouth of Lapelle river. ‘Fhese people do noth-
ing at cultivation, although the country in which
they rove is tolerably fertile, open, and free of
stone. . They trafic in buffaloe meat, dried and

137

pounded, and grease in bladders: the skins of
wolves, a few beaver and buffaloe robes.

Mahtopanato band, or Gens de Grand Diable,
rove on the Missouri, about the mouth of the
White Earth river, and on the head of Assinni-
“boin, at the mouth of Capelle river. Their num-
ber of warriors is about four hundred and fifty,
and sixteen bundred people. Their traffic is
nearly the same with the other bands.

The Chippeways, or Ojibaway are *divided
into three principal bands, which are distinguished
by ,

Chippeways of Leach lake, who reside on an
island in a small lake, called Leach lake, formed
by the Mississippi river. They claim the
country on both sides the Mississippi, from the
mouth of the Crow-wing river to its source, and
extending west of the Mississippi, to the land
claimed by the Sioux, with whom they still con-
tend for dominion ; and: the country eastiof the
Mississippi, as faras Lake Superior, int luding
the waters of the River Saint Louis. They con-
sist of four hundred warriors, and sixteen hun
dred souls. They do not cultivate the land, but
live principally on the wild rice, which they pro-
cure in great abundance on the borders of Leach
lake, and the banks of the Mississippi. They
trade with beaver, otter, black bear, rackoon,
marten, mink, fisher and deer skins. Their
numbers have been reduced. by wars and the small:
pox.

12*

138

Chippeways of Red lake consist of about two
hundred warriors, and seven hundred people,
they live on the head of the Mississippi, and about
Red lake. They hunt the same animals as the
preceding band, and:make and sell bark ‘canoes. —

Chippeways of Pembena river reside on the
Red river, of Lake Winnipie, and about the
mouth of Pembena river. The sumber of this
band is about one hundred warriors, and three
hundred’and fifty souls” They hunt principally
beaver, and kill seme wolverine and lynx, live by
hunting, and do not claim any particular extent
of ground. The Chippeways are well disposed
towards the whites, but excessively fond of spir-.
itous liquors. S|

Algonquins consisting of two bands ;

Algonquins of Rainy Jake are computed ta
have one hundred warriors, and three hundred
souls. They live about Rainy lake. Rainy
lake river and the Lake of the Woods. They live
very much in detached small parties ; are well
disposed towards the whites, and deal principally
m birch canoes.

Algonquins of the Portage de Prairie have two.
hundred warriors, and about six hundred people.
‘They are emigrants from the Lake of the Woods,
and live in a low, flat country,’on Red river, and
the Assinniboins, where oS is, an Apaeeoet of
wame. |
_ The Christenoes, or Knistenaus, or Cree Ins
dians, are a wandering nation, onthe heads of —

139

Assinniboin, and towards the Saskashawan river =
do not cultivate, but take and traffic in beaver,
otter, lynx, wolverine, mink, marten, wolf, small
fox or kitts, dressed elk, and moose deer skins..
They have three hundred warriors, and one
thousand souls. Their language differs but little
from the Chippeways, and have probably an affin-
Rig to that nation.. These people sometimes visit
‘Fort Dauphin mountains; are not esteemed
good. beaver hunters; are well disposed to the
whites, and treat their traders with respect.
|» The A-lan-sar, or Fall Indians, are supposed
to have six hundred and sixty warriors, and two
thousand five hundred people; reside on the
south fork of the Saskashawan river, and streams
supposed to be branches of the Missouri. They
trade with the northwest company ; the country
over which they rove is not much known. |
The Cattanahaws is a wandering nation, near
the Fall Indians; their number is not asser-
tained. i:
The Tut-see-was or Flat-head Indians live an
the west side of the Rocky mountains, on waters
supposed to run into the Columbia river. The
most that is known of the Flat-heads, is from the:
Minetares, or Grossventres, who are at war with —
them, and. often take prisoners. They say that
this nation resides in one village on the west side —
of a large and rapid river, which rans from south
to north, at the foot of Rocky mountains. Their

140 | :

number is’ not ascertained 5 are a timid, inoffen=
sive people, and possess an abundance of horses.

The Aliatans are divided into three bands; of
which there are several subdivisions.

Aliatans, So-so-na, Snake Indians, or Gens des.
Serpent, are a very numerous, well disposed peo-_
ple, inhabiting the Rocky mountains on the head
of the Missouri, Yellow Stone, and Plate rivers.
This band is divided. into three large tribes, who’
wander at a considerable distance from each
other; and are called by themselves, So-so-na,.
So-so-bu-bar, and I-a-kar. A part of these In-
dians live at, and near the falls of the Missouri.
They raise a number of horses and mules, and
often steal them from the nations who live east
of them. These they sell to the Crow Indians }
they also carry on a partial trade with Spaniards,
from whom. they receive many articles of cloth-
ing and ironmongery, but the Spaniards never |
supply them with warlike instruments. Their)
numbers are not. known, but are numerous. — |

Aliatans of the West, A-li-a-ta, live among the:
Rocky mountains, and on the plains at the heads:
of the Plate and Arkansas rivers. They have:
more intercourse with the Spaniards of New
Mexico, than the Snake Indians, and receive -
many articles of merchandise from them ; but:
the Spaniards take the precaution not to furnish:
them with arms, and yet, in their unarmed state, |
they frequently commit hostilities. They are:
said to be very numerous, but the number uns:

i
|

oi

141

known; are a warlike people, though badly
armed. They have large numbers of. horses,
asses, and mules, and considerable quantities of
buffaloe, deer, elk, black bear, antelope, and large
horses, as well as the skins of many animals of
the fur kind.

Aliatans, La Plays, principally inhabit the rich
plains, from the head of the Arkansas, embracing
the heads of Red river, and extending to the
mountains on the borders of New Mexico. They
possess no fire arms, but are warlike and brave ;
for the Spaniards fear these people, and take care
not to furnish them with the implements of war.
Their country abounds -with wild horses, and
raise immense numbers of horses, asses, and
mules themselves. The number of these people
is great, but not ascertained. These, as well as
all the other Aliatans, are wandering people, —
and have no fixed place of residence.

The Caddo, or Caddoques, residing on Red
river, have already been mentioned. ‘These peo-
ple, some years ago, left their ancient villages,
talled Caddo old towns, and settled on another
part of Red river, nearer to Natchitoches, where
they were visited with sickness, particularly the
small pox and measles, by which nearly one half

of them died. They had the small pox in the ” -

winter season, and as soon as the eruption ap-
peared, they plunged into the water, which often —
proved fatal, in afew hours. The number of
warriors of the ancient Caddo is reduced to

142

about one hundred, who are viewed. as a distin-
guished military order of men; they have many
old men and strangers, who live amongst them,
amounting to nearly an equal number with the
Caddos. This nation has great influence over
the Yattassees, Nandakoes, Nabadaches, Inies,
Nagogdoches, Keychies, Adaize, and Natchito-
ches, who all speak the Caddo language, look up
to them as their fathers, imtermarry among. them,
and join them in all their wars. They cultivate
corn, beans, pumpkins, melons, and tobacco.

The Yattasees live on Bayau Pierre or Stony
creek, which falls into Red river fifty miles above
Natchitoches. Their village is in a large prairie
fifty miles above Natchitoches, and about midway
to the Caddos. They are surrounded by a set-
tlement of French families ; but the Spanish
government exercises jurisdiction over this set~
tlement, where they keep a guard of a non-com-
missioned officer, and eight soldiers. The French
formerly had a station and factory here, and ~an-
other on the Sabine, about one hundred north-
west of this settlement. Of the ancient Yattasseesy
there are about eight men remaining, and twenty-
five women, besides children; but a number of
men of other nations have intermarried, and live
with them. They live on rich land; raise plenty
: ‘of corn, beans, tobacco, and other vegetables :
have horses, cattle, hogs, and poultry.

The Nandakoes live onthe Sabine river, sixty
or seventy miles to the westward, near where the

143

French formerly had a station and factory. A
few years ago they suffered very much by the
small pox, and are reduced to about forty men.
They consider themselves the same as_ the Cad-
dos, with whom they intermarry; visit one
another in the greatest harmony; have the same
manners, customs and attachments. _

The Adaize live about forty miles from Natch-
itoches, on a lake called Lac Macdon, which
communicates withthe division of Red river, that
passes by Bayau Pierre. ‘They live where their
ancestors have lived, time immemorial; the near-
est nation to the old Spanish fort, or Mission
Adaize; only twenty men of them remain, but
there are more women. Their language differs
from all other; and is said to be so difficult to
speak or understand, that no nation can speak
ten words of it; but they all speak Caddo, and
most of them French ; to whom they were always
attached, and joined them against the Natchez
Indtans, after the massacre of Natchez, in
1728. While the Spaniards occupied Adaize,
some priests attempted to proselyte them to the
Roman Catholic religion, but without the smallest
‘Success. x

The Aliche, pronounced Eyeish, reside near
Nacogdoches. They were some years ago a
considerable nation, and lived on a bayau of the 4
same, name, about twelve miles west of the Sa-
bine river, but the small pox destroyed the most
ef them. The nation is now almost extinct, hay-

Te

- 144,

ing’ only twenty-five souls remaining. Their

native language is spoken by no other nation,
but thev speak and understand Caddo, with whom
they are in friendship.

The Keyes, or Keychies, live on the east band
of Trinity river, a small distance above where
the road crosses from Natchitoches to Saint
Antoine. They consist of only sixty men; have
their peculiar language, but speak Caddo ;- inter-
marry with them,and live in great harmony.
They plant corn and other vegetables.

The Inies, or Tachies, live about twenty-five .
miles west of Natchitoches, on a small river,
which isa branch of the Sabine. This nation,
like all their neighbours, is diminished, having
only about eighty men; speak the Caddo: lan-
guage, and live in amity with them. They
possess rich land and raise corn to sell.

The Nabedaches reside about fifteen miles
above them, on the same river; consist of about
the same number of men; speak the same lan-
guage ; improve the best of land; raise corn in
plenty ; and have the same customs and _ habits.

The Bedies are on the Trinity river, about
sixty miles southward of Nacogdoches. They
have about one hundred men, who are good hun-
ters of deer, which are very large and plenty

ad about them. Their language differs from all

others, but speak Caddo; area peaceable, quiet
people ; and have an excellent character for their

1435

honesty and punctuality. They plant and raise
large crops of corn.

The Accokesaws live in a rich and beautiful
country, over which they rove, often changing
their place of residence; but their ancient town,
and where they principally reside, is on the west
side of Colerado or Rio Rouge. The deer they
kill are said to be remarkably large and fat, of

which they have an abundance. Their number
of men is about eighty; they have a language
peculiar to themselves ; but they converse much
by dumb signs, which they can all readily under-
“stand.

The Mayes live on a large creek, called Saint
Gabriel, on the bay of Saint Bernard, near the
mouth of Guadaloupe river. They are at per-
petual war with the Spaniards, but very friendly
to the French. Their number of men are com-
puted to be two hundred. They havea language
of their own, but speak the Attakapa, and like:
‘wise converse by signs.

The Carankouas, inhabit an island, or penin-
sula, in the bay of Saint Bernard. They are
always at war with the Spaniards, and kill them
whenever they find them ; but kind to the French,

They are said to be five hundred men strong; _

speak the Attakapa language, and are friendly te

all other Indians. .

* On one side of this peninsula is a high bluff,

er mountain of coal, which. can be seen some’

distance at seas It has been on fire for many
13

La +
—

146

years; affording a light by night, and a_ thick
smoke by day, which has deceived and endan-
gered vessels approaching the shoal waters on
this coast. There is emitted from this burning
coal, a gummy substance, which the Spaniards

eall cheta; it is thrown on the shore by the surf,

and collected in considerable quantities ; it has a

strong aromatic smell, and not disagreeable to —
the taste. It is collected for the purpose of chew-
ing, for which the nanNee have a particular —

fondness.
The Cances are very numerous, consisting of

a large number of different bands, occupying dif-

ferent parts of the country, from the bay of Saint

Bernard, cross the river Grand, towards La Vera —
Cruz. They are unfriendly to the Spaniards, and |

kill them when they have opportunity; but are
strongly attached tothe French. They princi-
pally use the bow, and are good hunters. These
people are very particular in their dress, differ-
ing from most of the other Indians. The dress
of the men is straight leather leggins, which resem-

ble pantaloons, and a leather hunting shirt, or —

frock. The women dress in a long, loose robe,

which so entirely covers them, that nothing but
their heads and feet are to be seen. No estimate
can be made of the numbers of this nation. The
Spaniards made slaves of these Indians, and sold

numbers of them to the French at Natchitoches 7 :
but this. practice was prohibited by. the King of.

Spain, and those made slaves were emancipated ,_

147

after which some of the women who had been
servants in good families, and taught spinning,
sewing, and household work, married, and be-
came respectable, well behaved women. Some of
them are still living, and have brought up decent
families of children. They have a peculiar lan-
“guage, and are understood by signs, in conversing
with others. ‘They are at peace with all nations
except the Hietans. a

The Tankaways or Tanks, claim no exclusive
right to any tractof land.; are always roving, and
have no particular place of abode. They wander
over the country watered by the Trinity, Braces,
and Colerado, towards Saint a Fé. heir num-
ber of men‘are estimated at about two hundred ;
arc one horde or tribe; dress like the Cances ;
are good hunters with the bow; and raise the
best breed of horses. They ate sometimes eni-
mics, and at others, friends to the Spaniards.

They plant nothing, but live on meat and wild

fruit ; are a strong athletic people, and excellent
horse men.

The Tawakenoes, or Three Canes, reside on
the west side of the Braces, and make their usual
place of aboad, about two hundred miles west of
Nacogdoches, towards Saint a Fé; but make
their excursions as low down as the Great Prai-
ries about the ‘Turtle mountain. They are esti-
mated at about two hundred men; are good
hunters, principally with the bow, but have some

148

guns. They speak the language of the ks
and claim the same ancestors.

The Hietans or Comanches have neither towns |
nor villages, ner any fixed place of residence.
They are divided into so many bands or tribes,
that they have scarcely any knowledge of one

another. No estimate of their numbers can be
made. ‘They never reside in the same place

more than a few days, but constantly follow the

buffaloe, which afford them their principal food.
They carry their tents with them, which are made
of neatly dressed skins, in the form of a cone ;

they are large enough for a family of ten or |

twelve persons; those of the chiefs are larger, —

and are some of them sufficient for fifty or sixty

people. When they encamp, their tents are

pitched in very exact order, so as to form regular

streets and squares, which in a few minutes has

the appearance of a handsome town, raised, as
it were, by enchantment; and they are equally
dexterous in striking their tents and preparing to

march, when the signal is given. They allot two

horses or mules to every tent, one to carry the
tent, and the other the poles used in setting it up,
which are neatly made of red cedar. They all
travel on horse back. They never turn their
horses loose to graze, but keep them tied witha
long halter’; and every two or three days they
are obliged to move, to find grass for the support

of their horses; for they have always a large
number. ‘They have fine horses, and are excel-_

149

lent horse men. Most of their horses are bred —
by themselves, and by handling them when very
young they are remarkably docile and_ gentle.
Sometimes wild horses are caught and tamed,
which are every where amongst them in large
droves. They hunt down the buffaloe on horse
‘back, and kill them either with the bow, or.a sharp.
wooden spear, which they carry in their hands.
They are said, when they kill a buffaloe, to catch
and drink the blood, while it is warm; they
likewise eat the liver raw, before it is cold, and
use the gall for sauce. They are, for savages,
‘uncommonly neat and clean in their persons and
dress. The women wear a long, loose robe, which
reaches from the chin to the ground, with a fancy
sash or girdle around the waist, all made of neatly
dressed leather, on which they paint figures of
different colours and significations. The dress
of the men is close leather pantaloons, and a
hunting frock, made of leather. They cultivate
no vegetables, but they season their food with a
small cayenne pepper, which grows spontaneously
in the country, and some wild herbs. They also
make use of wild fruits, particularly a bean, which
grows in great plenty on a small tree, resembling
a willow, called masketo. With these articles
the women will cook their buffaloe beef ina man-
ner highly grateful to the taste. They occupy
alternately a vast extent of country from the Trin-
ity, Braces, the head of Red river, and Arkan-
sas, to the Missouri, River Grand, about Saint a
13*

150

Fé, and over the mountains, to the waters of the
western ocean. They say, they have seen big
peroques, with masts, which they describe by
drawing a ship and the sails and rigging. Their
language sounds different from that of any other
nation, and none can either speak or understand
it ; but they have a language by signs, whch can
be .understood. by all Indians; and which they
use much in conversing among themselves... They
are generally at war with the Spaniards, and often
commit depredations on the inhabitants of Saint
a Fé, and Saint Antoine ; but have always been
friendly to the French or Americans, who have
been among them. They have a number of
Spanish men and women among them; who are
slaves, and who were made prisoners when they
were young.

The following story is related by an elderly
gentleman, living at Natchitoches, who formerly
carried on a trade with this nation. A number
of years ago, a party of these Indians passed over
the River Grand, to Chewawa, the residence of
the governor-general of what is called the five’
internal provinces ; lay in ambush for an oppor-.

tunity, and made a prisoner of the governor’s |
daughter, a young lady, as she was going in her |
eoach to mass, and brought her off. The gover-
nor sent a message to this gentleman, with a |
thousand dollars, for the purpose of recovering |
his daughter: he immediately dispatched a con~_
fidential trader, then in his employ, with the

151

‘

amount of the thousand dollars in merchandise,
who repaired to the nation, and after he had found
her, purchased her ransom; but to his great sur-
prise, she refused to return with him to her fath-
er, and sent by him the following message : that
the Indians had disfigured her face, by tattooing
it according to their fancy and ideas of beauty,
and a young man of them had taken her for his
wife, by whom she believed herself pregnant ;
that she had become reconciled to her mode of
life, and was well treated by her husband; and
that she should be more unhappy by returning to
‘her father, under these circumstances, than by
remaining where she was. Which message was
conveyed to her father, who rewarded the trader
by a present of three hundred dollars more for
his trouble and fidelity ; and that, at the time of
relating this account, his daughter was living with
her Indian husband, in the nation, by whom she
had had. three children. ~
The Natchitoches nation formerly lived, where
the town of Natchitoches is now situated, which
took its name from them. About one hundred
years ago, when the French began their settle-
ment in this town, this nation had six hundred
men. ‘They became attached to French people,
‘and have ever been their steady and faithful
friends. After the massacre of the French imhab-
itants of Natchez,” AY the Natchez Indians, in
1728, those’ Indians, ied from the French, after
the French were reinforced, and came up Red

152

river, and camped about six miles beiow the town
of Natchitoches, near the river, by the side of a
small lake of clear water, and erected a mound
of earth, of considerable size, where it now ré-
mains. Monsieur Saint Dennie, a French Gana
adian, was then commandant at Natchitoches:
the Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond
of him, for he was a brave man. Saint Dennie,
with a few French soldiers, and what militia he
could muster, joined by the Natchitoches Indians,
attacked the Natchez Indians in their camp,
early inthe morning ; they defended themselves
desperately for six hours, but were at length to-
tally defeated, and what were not killed in bat-
tle, were drove into the lake, were the last of
them perished, and the Natchez, as a nation, be-
came extinct. This lake is now called Natchez
lake. Since that time the Natchitoches nation have
decreased, until their remains only twelve men,
and nineteen women, who live in a village about
twenty-five miles above the town, near a lake
called by the French Lac de Muire. The small
pox has been their great destroyer. Their ori-
ginal language is the same as the Yattassee, but
speak Caddo and French. The French inhabit-
ants highly respect this nation, and a number of
decent families have a mixture of their blood in
them. They still preserve their Indian dress,
and habits ; raise corn and the other vegetables
common in their neighbourhood.

153

There are the remains of several more nations,
who are become nearly extinct, inhabiting in dif-
ferent parts of this country, who are mostly emi-
grants from the eastern side of the Mississippi.
The Boluxas, from Pensacola, live on Red river,
at the mouth of Rigula de Bandieu, who are re-
duced to about thirty men. They are an honest,
harmless, and friendly people. The Appalaches
from West Florida, live above bayau Rapide,
and consist of only fourteen men. The Allibamis
eame from West Florida, consist of seventy men,
of whom thirty have settled near the Caddoques,
and forty in Appelousa district. Conchattas are
from West Florida, call their number one hun-
dred and sixty men, and are settled on the River
Sabine. Several families live in detached settle-
ments, which they say will make their number
two hundred men. Pacanas are also emigrants>
from West Florida, are a small tribe of about
thirty men, and live on the Quelqueshoe river.
Attakapas, a name which is said to. mean man-
eater, but no more applicable to this tribe, than
that of any other Indians. Their number, inclu-
ding some Funicas and Humas Indians, who have
intermarried and live with them, is about eighty
men. They are peaceable and frieridly to every
body, and are settled between Attakapa church
and the Quelqueshoe river. The Appelousa,’
which means black head or black skull, have about
forty men, are natives of the district called by
their name, and live west of Appelousa church.

154

Lunicas do not exceed twenty-five men, and live
at Avoyall. Pascagolas from West Florida,
have only twenty-five men, and live in a small
village on Red river. Tenisaws are emigrants
from Tenesau river, which falls into the bay of
Mobile, are reduced to twenty-five men, and live’
on hayau Beauf. Chactoos live on the -same
bayau; are aborigines of the country where
they live, and are diminished to about thirty mens
Washas are reduced. to two men and three women,
and live in French families. The Chactaws have
two villages, one consisting of thirty, and the other.
of fifty men, in the district of Appelousa, besides.
rambling hunting parties, in different parts of the.
country. They are at war with the Caddoques,
and not liked by either red or white people.
The Arkansas, who claim three hundred miles on
that river, but live in three villages, are supposed.
not to exceed three hundred men.- They speak
the Osage language, but are at war with that na- ,
tion. They raise corn to sell, and are called an:
honest and friendly people. ;
These Indian nations reside, or rove in their |
hunting and trading excursions, within what has:
been conjectured to be the limits of Louisiana, |
In ascertaining their numbers, it was unavoidably ;
necessary, in many instances, to depend on In- |
dian information; but it is presumed that the:
number of warriors, which is generally given im!
even numbers, is not far from being correct; and:
calculating on the best data that could be obtain-

| oo

ed, the souls are probably estimated rather below,
than above their real number.

In constructing the following table, for the pur-
pose of giving a collected view of the number of
each nation, and an aggregate of the whole of
those nations which are so numerous, and so di-
vided and subdivided into bands and parties, that
their numbers could not be known by any infor-
mation the Indians were able to give, are pre-
‘sumed to be, at least, equal to the Great and Lit-
tle Osage nation, and their numbers are assumed ;
and those nations of whom only the number of
‘men are ascertained, the number of souls are
‘calculated in about the same proportion to the
number of warriors, with those of the other na-
tions.

156

Thdian Natidas. Warriors.
Great and Little Osage, - 2000
Kanzas, 800
Missouris, 80
Ottoes, 120
Panis Proper, . 400
Panis aes 300
or ‘Big Paunch, ;
Panis Loups, or ‘
Wolf Indians, :
Maha, 300
Pancars, 50
Ricaras, 500
Mandans, : 350
Ahwahhawa, 50
Minetares, or Grossventres, 600
Ayauwais, 200
‘ Saukees, 500
Renars, or Fox Indians, 800
Sioux, (ten bands) . 2590
Chien, or Dog Indians, hal, 300
Wetepahatoes and Kiawas, | 200
Kenenavish, 400
Staetan, or Kites, 100
Kata, 75
Wemousin, or Allebome, 50
‘Dotame, ; 30
Castahana, 1300
Keehatsa, or Crow Indians, 900
Allakaweah, or 800
Paunch Indians,
= Assinniboin consisting 900
of three bands,
Chippeways, three bands, 700
: Algonquins, two bands, 300
’ Christenoes, or Cree Indians, 300
Alansar, or Fall Indians, 660
Cattananaws, (supposed to be) 600
Tutsee, or Flat Head, 300
| Alitans, or Snake [n- :
dians, (supposed,) ile
- Caddoques, 100
YVattasees, &
Wandakoes, 40
Adaize, 20
Aliche,. a : 5
Kéyes, a 60
Inies, . ; 80

a frees or ‘Tliree Canes,
tans, (numerous 2
supposed to be,) J}
Natchitoches, »
Boluscas, —
“Appalaches,
-Allivamis, a
_Conchattas,
Pacanas,
ttakapas,
Appelousa, :
-‘Tunicas, rer ty y
“Pascagolas, —
-Tenisaws,.

pete

AVashas, men 2, women 3,
_Chactaws,

§
‘4 a
s ia ~*~

oy =

‘THE

JOURNAL

OF P

Mr. CHARLES LE RAYE. a

Ix the year 1801, I left Canada with an adven-.

ture of goods, to trade 6n the Missouri. I ar- |

rived at the French settlement on the Illinois,
early in September, and concluded to ascend the
Osage river, and to trade with the Osage nation.
Here I procured two additional hands, which
completed my complement of six men besides my
self.. As soon as my perioque was finised, we
embarked. Onthe 2ist of September, I entered

the mouth of the Missouri, and as the waters ;

“were low, we ascended with ease.

On the 7th of October, entered the Osage |
river, and ascended seven miles, where ween-}
campedto hunt, and procure meat. Nothing ma--

terial occured until the 23d, when we had ascend-

ed within sixty miles of the Osage village, and |

had encamped for the night, at a smali stream,
on the east side of the river. After supper IT
ordered the men, who were in a tent on the shore, |

159

to keep a watch, as usual, and retired to the pe-.

Tioque to sleep. Just before day, I was awaked
by the rushing of a number of Indians through
the brush, and before I could disengage my self
and my gun from the buffaloe robe, in which I
was enwrapped, an Indian, followed by five or six
‘more, rushed into the boat, and seizing my gun,
dragged me on shore. As soon as they had bound
me, I was hurried back into the boat, and seven
Indians jumping in, they bushed the boat from
the shore, and hurried down the river, as fast as
they could paddle. I saw a Jarge number on the
bank around the tent. It was so dark I could
not distinctly see my men, but heard the voice of

one of them speaking to the Indians, in the Osage

tongue. From this, I concluded they were Osage We

Indians. . ari

The Indians in the boat wilt bs vty mie
down the river about twenty miles, and came to
their encampment, kept bgt four lads, fourteen or
fifteen years old. Here they unloaded the boat.

-I was anxious to know the fate of my mény and
° ol REL eyes A
about noon was much relieved by seeing them’

brought in by the rest of the party.. The number
of Indians now, were forty-six men, and four lads.
They immediately collected their horses, fourteen
in number, and the goods were loaded on them,
We were all bound with buffaloe cords over our
“arms, and, travelling up the branch, until about
Gridnight, we encamped. When we lay down to
sleep, we were ites between two Indians, one.

..

160

of which had the end of the cord with which we
were bound, around his body. In the morning,
after eating some dried meat, for which purpose
our arms were loosened, we pursued a course,
north or west, and leaving the creek, we crossed
several ridges covered with grass, Dut’entirely
destitute of timber. About noon we crossed a
small stream, a branch of the stream we had
ascended, and encamped on it, at night. On
the 25th of October, we travelled through a
country somewhat broken, and destitute of timber,
but game wasvery plenty, and two deer were shot.
At night we encamped by an excellent spring.
There being no wood, we kindled a fire with dry
weeds, and broiled meet for our suppers.

On the 26th we set forward early, and contin-
Wing a west course, came to a stream of water
which one of my men, who had been on the
Missouri, said, was a branchof Mine river. The
country became more level, gvith some small tim-
her near the water. I now discovered that the
Indians were not Osage, but a party of Sioux, of
the Bois Bucil band. We encamped on the
branch, and on rich land. Onthe 27th, we con-
tinued down the stream until we came to a small
path, where the land was covered with high grass
and weeds. We encamped at the mouth of the
stream. On the 28th, we crossed the stream,
and proceeded a west course to Mine-river, and”
crossing the river, we encamped on the west side,

on rich land, covered with large timber. Here
~ ar r

16!

we tarried part of the day to hunt, having no
other provision than some corn, taken from the
perioque. During the day the cords were taken
from our arms. The guns and ammunition taken
from the perioque were sufficient to furnish the
Indians, so that most of them were well armed,
and only a few of them made use of their bows.

On the 29th, we left Mine river, and continued
‘a west course until we came to a large beaten
path, which was the Kanzas war path to tie
Missouri. We continued in the path a few miles,
tand left it to the right. We encamped on a small
‘run, with-scarcely water sufficient to%quench our.
thirst. Proceeding earlyon the \s0th, we tray-

elled through a level, rich country’ destitute of »

timber. At this time my feet, andthe feet of
‘some of my men, had become so sore as scarcely
to be able to watk. Coming to a branch of the
-Kanzas river, we encampeds As soon as the camp
was made, a keg of rom taken from the perioque

was broached, and soon all the Indians, except the -

chief, four warriors and the four lads, were drunk.

After a very noisy night, towards morning they
fell a sleep. They had taken great care to secure
‘us before they began to drink. Inthe hurry last

evening to taste the rum, they had neglected tor
give us any thing to eat. This morning, (31st),

“our appetites were of course good, as we had not
tasted any thing. but water and a little spirit since

the preceding morning. We therefore eat an

hearty breakfast, and assisted in loading the
14%

162

horses, ‘lic Indians after they awoke were agai
for tasting the spirits, but this being opposed by |
the chief, and the horses being loaded, we pro-
ceeded. Continuing our course down a branch
of the Kanzas, started a drove of buffaloe, con-,
‘sisting of two or three hundred. The Indians”
killed six, and then’ encamped on the branch.
Texpected the rum would have been broached,
but their debauch the night before seemed to
have satisfied them. Here they informed us, that
in'two days we should arrive at the camp where
their women were. |

November 1st, Wwe’ Sgeiaued eae the branch.
Snow fell some depth last night. Proceeded early
on the 2d, and*found the.country somewhat hilly,
but destitute~of timber, except near the water.
On the 3d, it rained, aud we continued in the
camp. Three men were sent ferward to .notify
the band of our appkoa@h. Towards noon the
weather cleared up, av@:w@ proceeded about six
miles, and met the whole band, consisting of
about two hundred men, women and children.
AAs soon as. the chief discovered the band, he set
up the yell, andawas answered by the band, which
formed two lines, opening to the right and left,.
and we were.Jed between them. Some of the
children shewed a dispositon to insult us, but
were prevented by the men. The whole pics
ceeded to the encampments, where the tents were!
all standing i in two rows, facing each other. Un=
der different circumstances I should have been:

Pi]
?

163

pleased with the appearance. But at this time
my mind was occupied with ‘Gixicty about my
fate, and that of my companions, expecting to be
tomehawked or burned. On our arrival we were
taken to the centre of the encampment, where the
two chief tents were situated, and my self and
companions put into the tents belonging to the

chief who had taken us. The goods were un-,
-Joaded and distributed among the"Indians. While *

this was doing, a Frenchman came into the tent
and spoke to me, which much revived my spirits.
_ As soon as he had learned that we were all 'rench-
men, he left us ; but soon returned with the con-
soling news that weshould be well treated. The
chief soon after came in, ordered us unbound,
and that some meat should be given us to eat.
His squaws were now bringing in his share of the
goods. The chief seated himself, and then the
other chief and the wafriors came in, and after
lighting their pipes, énteréd into a long conversa-
tion, in the Sioux tongue, with the Fenchman.

As soon as the conversation ended, my men were
distributed among the warriors, and I was retain-"

ed by the chief who took me. ‘The name of the
Frenchman, who resided with this people, was
Pardo. He informed me no further injury was
intended me, or my men. He also informed me
that this was a party that went in pursuit of some

Osage Indians, who, a short time before, had
killed some of their band, and that their meeting

with me was accidental; but suspecting me to be —

Te

164

taking goods and arms to the Osage Indians, their
enemies, they took me. In the evening the rum
was again broached. ‘T'wo kegs of high proof
spirits had been taken from the perioque, which
contained about twelve gallons each. I was di-
_ rected not to leave the tent.

Early in the morning of the 4th, I went out
and found all still. At the farther part of the
encampment, where the liquor was drank, I saw
the horrid effects of their last night’s debauch.
The wood, weeds, and almost every thing, was
covered with blood. While I was viewing the
scene, an Indian came to me, and bid me begone.
I therefore immediately returned to the tent.
Soon after Mr. Pardo came in and told me the
Indians had been very drunk, and had fought with
their knives. ‘Fhree of them were badly wounded,
and one very dangerously. I was permitted to
take several small articles from the chief’s share
of the goods, among which were my papers, a
razor and,alappo coat. These I procured through
the influence of Mr. Pardo. He informed me
that in a few days the band would go to the Ri-
carus village, where more of the band were. This
camp in which we now were, was situated on a
lage fork of the Kanzas, on the edge of a prairie.
The tents were made of buffaloe skins dressed,
and painted with a variety of rude figures, which
at adistance made ‘a handsome appearance. Each ~
tent was set up in form of a cone, by means of a
pole about twelve feet long, with the skins tied

%

yound it, at the top, and spread outat the bottom.
The doors of the tents were made facing each
other, before which they made a fire, and some
times one in the tent. It was several days be-
fore the wounded Indians could be meved, and
during our stay the Indians killed a deer, which
4s called the long-tailed deer. It was larger than
the red deer, of a darker colour, and witha white
belly. Its horns are short, small and somewhat

flat; its tail nearly eighteen inches long. They
are said to be plenty in these plains.

The wounded Indians having so far recovered
‘as to be able to be transported, on the 12th, we
prepared for our departure, and removed a few
miles. The Indians now treated me with a much
greater degree of hospitality, than, from their
former conduct, I had any Treason to expect. On
the 13th, we continued our course to the Kanzas
river. This is a handsome stream, about twice
fas wide as the Osage, and flows through a rich
‘country, but mostly destitute of timber, except’
on the water courses. We crossed it about forty
miles from the mouth. The Kanzas nation of
Indians reside near its head waters. On the
'14th, continued a northwest course in a_ well
beaten path, and the country somewhat hilly.
The 15th, crossed a small stream of water run-
ning to the northwest, the land hilly, without
‘timber. From this time to the 20th, very little
difference in the appearance of the country.
On the 20th, came toa branch of the river La

166

Piate. The land now. became rich and level,
with wood near the water. Here the Indians
separated, and about one hundred and fifty di-
rected their course towards the Missouri, with
whom all my men were taken. Mr. Pardo, my-
self, the chief who took me, and the rest of the
Indians, continued our course towards the Rica-
ras village.

On the 24th, came to the River La Plate.
This is a rapid stream, not less than three forths
ofa mile in width. It comes froma great dise
tance from towards the south. The Panis, Ottoes,
Missouri and Wolf Indians, live on the waters
of this river, and are all at war with the Sioux.
On the 25th, we crossed the river with great dif-
ficulty and danger, owing to the running of the
ice. |

On the 26th, some of the squaws made them-
selves carriages, to transport their baggage, by
lashing three or four bars to the ends of two slim
poles, and yoking a dog to the poles. A dog, in
this manner, will draw about seventy pounds.
The snow was now about cight inches deep.
We continued our course onthe 27th, northwest-
erly. Here the country became more broken,
ascending into ridges. ‘There were a considera-
ble number of elk, buffaloe, cabree or antelope,
and deer, and very little timber to be seen on
these ridges,

Nothing material occurred until the 2d: day
of December, when we came to the Missouriy

167

and crossed it near the mouth of the Little Pioux. .
We continued our course on the» north side of i,
the Missouri, often near it, until we arrived a
the lodges, on the Sioux river, which was on the
8th, where we prepared to spend the remainder
of the winter. It was found that several of the
Indians had got frozen. They were very slightly
‘clothed, having nothing more than abuffaloe robe,
or a deer, or cabree skin, thrown over their
shoulders, with only leggins, their moccasons
being worn out. The weather was now. yery se-
vere, and the lodges illy calculated to. shelter us
from it. We covered and patched them up, as
well as we could, with dry grass and willow
branches. In the centre an opening was made,
ten feet in length, and eighteen inches in width,
for the purposes of letting out the smoke, and let-
he in the light. The decors were made close
with buffaloe skins. During the night, the horses
are sheltered under the same cover with the peo-
ple, being only separated by a pole. They are
fed in the night on willow and butten wood
branches, and in the day time are turned out to
‘graze on whatever they can find to eat.

" These Indians are the diftiest creatures on
earth. ‘They bring their water for themselves
and their horses, in the paunches of the deer and
cabree, which are never cleansed more than what
is done by constant use. Their meat is cooked
imthe most filthy manner. When they boil it,
ey continue the boiling yntil it can be eaten

3 AS
Ne 4

Ct “

168

with a spoon, throwing in a handful of corn, if
they have it, with a small quantity of bear’s oil;
but make use of no seasoning of any kind. When
it is ready to eat, the whole company, with ten
or fifteen dogs, gather round it, and each one
strives to get his share. They have no set times
for their meals, but it seems to depend on the
calls of hunger, and a disposition to prepare the
food. .

An animal is found in these plains, called le
prairie chein, or prairie dog. It is smaller than
the grey fox, and formed much like the dog. Its
ears are pointed and stand erect, and the whole
head very much resembles the dog. Its tail is
long, slim, and of a dun colour. It digs holes and
burrows ina light, loamy soil, and in the same
holes, a small speckled snake takes shelter,
which the Indians call the dog’s guard. The In-
dians have many superstitious notions respecting
these dogs. The Ay-oo-wars, or Nespeirce na-
tion have a tradition that the human race sprang:
from this dog and the beaver. All other nations.
hold them in great veneration. A kind of deer
were frequently killed here, called mule deer. It:
is smaller and of a darker colour than the red |
deer, having large, branched horns. The ears |
are very large; the tail about five inches long,
with short dark hair, and at the end, a tuft com-.
posed of long, black hair. A species of the
badger, called prarow, inhabits these plains. Its;
head much resembles the dog; legs. short and,

169

very thick in proportion to its body, armed with
long, sharp claws, well adapted to digging. The
size of the body somewhat exceeds the ground
hog; hair of adark brown colour, and tail, bushy, .
resembling that of the ground hog. It burrows
and lodges in the ground,

» In the latter part of winter we were much dis-
tressed for food. Hunting became bad, and game
scarce. We had often nothing more than one
poor dog boiled, to feed twenty for a day, and
sometimes for a much longer space of time.
"Phe Indians are fond of dog’s fiesh, and at their
feasts use no other kind of meat. During the
winter, a few fish were taken in the river. These
were principally the cat fish.

To.my great satisfaction, on the 20th of March,
1802, we left this camp of filth and misery, where
we had remained from the 8th of December,
and proceeded towards the Ricaras, or Rus, as
the traders call them. Some of the Indians had
prepared themselves sleighs to ride in, which
were made in the following manner. A slender
frame was made of small sticks, woven together,
about three feet in length, and the sides about
eight inches high. Over this frame, deer or ca-
bree skins were drawn tight, and came over the
upper part, forward; about eighteen inches. It
was then placed on two runners, made of bent:
poles, to the end of which was fastened two slim
poles for shafts. The whole was secured together
by buffaloe cords. Two dogs were then yoked
15

170

to the shafts, one before the other, and the rider
places himself in the sleigh, with his feet under
the covered part. He then guides the foremost
dog by a line fastened round his neck, and in this
manner the dogs will draw him with great ease.
We arrived on the banks of the Missouri, nea
the salt springs, on the 23d, and being unable to
cross the river on account of the ice, which be-
gan to break up, we continued up the river to
where the ice remained firm, and well secured by
a sand bar in the middle of the river. Here we
crossed, and proceeded up to White tiver, about
twenty miles, where we arrived on the 27th, and
encamped. On the 29th, we removed up the
White river, sixteen miles, to hunt. The snow
now began to disappear, and the plains were cov-
ered with game. Here no timber was to be seen.
except on the water courses, where a few willows,
elm, and button wood grew, but the appearance
of the soil was rich. A small party of Rus, :
joined us at this camp, and on the 6th of April, |
we crossed White river, which is about one hun-.
dred and fifty yards wide, and continued our.
journey towards the Rus village. On the othy,
we encamped on Tyler’s creek 3 and onthe 12th,;
we arrived opposite Tuton river. Here we left
the Missouri, and proceeded a west course to the
River Chein, or Dog river. On this route we
travelled through a broken country, destitute of
wood, and badly watered. ‘We arrived at tht
Cheinriver on the 14th,and immediately crossed it

+ ie
Ny
2

171 *

in buffaloe canoes. The river is nearly half a
mile wide, and as the Indians. informed me, flows
through'a plain, level country, for several hun-
dreds of miles, mostly destitute of timber. On
the. head waters riside several tribes of Indians,
with which the Sioux are at war.’ The most
“powerful of these tribes are the Chein, or Dog
Indians. There are also the Gens-di-rach, or
Kananawesh, the Kites and Dotame, besides
“bands of the Mahas, Pancars, and Katakaw We
met with a camp of the Rus Indians, who were
hunting, ahd continued here until the 18th, when
sthey joined us, and we proceeded to the villages
about sixty miles, travelling through a country
destitute of timber, and interspersed with large
hills. On the 22d, arrived at the lower village
and joined several camps of Sioux and Dog In-
dians. The Ricaras or Rus, have three villages,
situated on the south bank of the Missouri, in the
great bend of the river. The lower village is on
a large bottom, covered with cotton wood, and
contains about fifty huts. These huts were built
ina different manner, and were more comfortable
habitations, than any Indian huts I had before
seen. Te build their huts, they cut four forked
posts, which are set up fifteen feet high. Two
‘of these posts stand eighteen inches apart, and
two stand at the distance of ten feet from the
other two posts, and ten feet from,.each other,
“on which two ridge poles are placed. Around
these posts they erect sixteen forked posts more,

172

-
six feet high, which are so placed as to forma
circular figure, eighteen feet in diameter. Oa

the front side two more posts, six feet long, are-

set up, ten feet from the building, and four feet

apart. Short poles are then laid round on these
sixteen forks, and on the forks of the two posts-

which project in.front, to connect them with the
building. Stakes are then placed in a reclining
position, so as to lean against the poles which
are placed on the six feet posts, and stand cight

or nine inches apart.’ At the upper end of these

stakes, poles are fastened, so that the other end ;

rests upon the ridge poles. When the frame is
thus completed, the whole is covered with willow

and cotton wood branches, except an opening

between the ridge poles, for the smoke to pass,

und the space in the front of the projection, which —
is left for a door way. Over the branches is laid
a covering of long grass, and over the grass, a
coat of clay mortar.

These huts are placed with preat regularity, ia
two straight rows. ‘The doors in each row front
those in the opposite row, so that the huts stand
facine each other, with a space of twelve feet be-
tween the doors. .The town is picketed with
pickets, tweive feet high, and set very close, to
prevent firing between them. There is one gate
way, which is shut at night.

Th ese people are much more cleanly in chet
persons, dress, and food, than the Sioux. They
are also of a lighter.complexion, which is of a

- :
i73

bright. copper colour, with aquiline noses and
black, lively eves. The women have high cheek
bones, oval faces, and regular features. Both
men and women are of a social, sprightly make.
The menare tall and well formed, and the women,
though smaller, are equally well shaped, and
rather handsome, than otherwise. Their dress
consists of a’shift made of dressed deer skins, and
reaches from the chin, below the knee, to the mid-
dle of the leg, with short sleeves. It is secured
round the waist by a belt of wampum. They
Wear moccasons and leggins, and in the winter
“a buffaloe robe, thrown over their shoulders.
The men wear a wide strip of leather, about three
feet long, which they draw between their legs, :
and fasten it around the middle bya belt! They
have long leggins and moccasons, and a buffaloe
robe over their shoulders.
These Indians raise corn, beans, melons, .
pumpkins and tobacco. Their tobacco differs
from that which is raised by white people. It
has a smaller stalk, that grows about eighteen
inches high, with long, narrow leaves, and is only
used for smoking. The Indians never chew,
“nor snuff tobacco. They carry on, at these villa-
ges, a considerable commerce with these produc:
tions 3 having much more than they want for their
own consumption: It is a barter trade with
eehbouring nations,’ who never cultivate the
‘ground, for such articles of European goods, as
they have procured at the British establishments;
AL Bit

174

at the falls of Saint Anthony, or from traders
and also for horses, mules, dried meat, and other
articles. Their principal customers are the Sioux,
the Chein Indians, Watapahatoes, Gens-dis-vatcis,
Kites, and Dotame, the most of whom, except the
Sioux, reside on the river Chein. ‘This nation
Was once very numerous, and consisted of ten
tribes of the Panis, who reside on’the river La
Plate, and whose tongue they speak in somewhat

of different accent. ‘They have now not much.

over five hundred warriors; having been reduced
from. five thousand warriors, to their present
number, in less than thirty years, by the small
pox and attacks of their enemies; particularly by
the Sioux, who have got them so far under sub-
jection, that they dare not offend them, and are
frequently robbed, plundered, and even murdered,
without daring to resent it. This. information
_qwas given me by an old chief of the lower vil-
lages. |

Above the Sioux river, and between that and
the River Sacque, is a small hill, destitute of
timber, which the natives say is inhabited by
spirits, in shape of human beings, of a very
diminutive size, not being, according to their de-
scription, more than six or eight inches high.
Respecting these bodily spirits they have anum-
ber of ridiculous fancies. Arnold chief told ‘ me,
with great gravity, that the occasion of their com-

ing and living on, this hill, was, because the In~_

cians, a great many winters ago, were so. wicked

.

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;
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,

-

175

and foolish, as to strive to kill all the animals
made for their use.. The Great Spirit saw them
from above, and was so angry with them that he
sent these little beings, which the Indians call
Wakons, to drive all the animals out of the coun-
“try, which they did, and many of the Indians
starved for want of food. But after much entreaty
and many sacrifices, the anger of the Great Spirit
was appeased, and he permitted the animals to
return; but directed the Wakons to’ reside on
this hill, to watch the conduct of the Indians, and
*should they again be so wicked, they are to drive
‘all the animals off, never to return. This impres-
sion has had an excellent effect on the natives, as
it prevents causeless waste of what is so necessary
for their subsistence. They pretend often to see
these little beings on, and about the hill, as they
are passing, but no consideration would induce
an Indian to set his foot on this holy ground.
The lower village, on the 20th of May, held
their great feast. Two days previous notice was
| given by their principal chiefs. There being a
number of camps of different tribes, they were all
invited to join, and in the morning of the festi-
‘val, were dressed out in their best attire, and
made no indifferent appearance. Their faces
were daubed with a variety of paints. Their
ears, noses and hair, were full of silver rings, and
‘of silver and glass trinkets; with silver breast
plates ; and a multitude of beads, hanging round
their necks. Their hair was also filled with the

176

feathers of the eagle, and other large birds.
Bandayes full of brooches were tied round their
foreheads. Their clothes ‘neatly worked with por-
cupine quills and beads, and large wampum belts
around the middle. Their moccasons and leg-
gins ‘strung with bits of brass and beads, worked
full of porcupine quills and horse hair dyed red,
In this finical, gaudy dress, they all assembled in
a place prepared for the purpose, near the village,
in the fore part of the day. The men only par-
take of the feast, but the women are distant
spectators; for they are never suffered to eat with
the men, neither at feasts, nor in their own fami-
lies, when strangers are present. This, however,
does not prevent them from decorating themselves
for the occasion. After all had assembled, the
head chief of the village addressed the company
in an impressive speech, in which he informed
them, that it had been a practice, time immemo-
rial, to celebrate the return of the spring, by a
feast to the Great Spirit. He recommended to
them peaceable and friendly behaviour, and told
them, that as the Great Spirit had given them an
unclouded sky, he was well pleased with their in-
tention, and that each one should be careful not
to offend him by improper conduct. After the
address, the company were seated, and the head
chief opened his medicine bag, from which he
drew the sacred stem or pipe. This he placed
- on the forked sticks set in the ground before him
for the purpose. Fire was then brought, and he

177

lighted the pipe, and blowed the smoke to the east,
south, west, and north; after which he handed
the pipe to the chief next to him, on the right,
who smoked two or three whiffs and passed it to
the next, and so on, until it had gone round the
company. |
_ The provisions were now brought forward,
composed entirely of dog’s flesh, and placed be-
fore the preat chief, and each one sent his dish to
‘him, in turn; for before they came, every one
took care to provide a dish for himself. Some of
the youth attended as waiters to the company.
The greatest order and regularity was observed
during the feast. Each one considered himself
obliged to eat all that was sent him ; but at such
feasts it is seldom more than they can devour in
a few minutes. As soon as the feast was ended,
‘fire was brought, and the whole commenced
smoking, which was continued for about an hour.
The smoking then ceased and the dance com-
menced. ‘Their music consisted of beating on
buffaloe skins, shaking dried prarow and marten
skins, tied up, in a form to contain small stones,
and beating on a kind of drum, made by stretch-
ing a skin, dressed like parchment, over the end
of a hollow log about four feet long, which is
joined with: the singing of the company. ‘Their
songs are a rehearsal of the exploits of themselves
‘and their ancestors, and is accompanied with a
“varicty of antic gestures. In all their movements ~
they keep exact time; dance ina circle around a

178

fire, never taking hold of hands, nor touching one
another, unless by accident. The dance contin-
ued until near morning. When the dance was
closed, all retired to their respective quarters,
perfectly quiet and peaceable. Although the
company consisted of not less than a thousand .
people, of different nations, and some of whom
were morta! enemies to others, there was not the —
least confusion heard during the day or night.
The Indians are extravagantly fond of gam-—
bling, and spend most of their leisure hours in—
it. The game they appear most attached to is —
played with eight bones, of the size of a man’s
finger, of an oval form, three fourths of an inch —
long, with -four square sides, two of which are /
coloured black and red. They are placed on
wooden trenchers, or oval platters. From this |
dish the bones are tossed into the air, and then |
caught in the dish. They win or lose according |
to the number of a certain colour, previously —
agreed upon, being uppermost, until the game is |
finished, which is always forty-five. ‘lwo bands |
or parties will play at this game, the loser rising |
and letting one of his. party take, his place, until
the whole band has hada partinthe game. They
often play for all the property they possess, and |
after losing that, set up their wives.and children,
for they are considered the men’s property; as
* much as their arms, or any thing they possess,
| iF Another game is played by means of small sticks,
five inches long, of the size of a goose quill, neatly

|

‘
|

179

polished and marked with red and black lines:
Forty of these sticks are divided between the
two persons who play. One wraps up a part of
his sticks in grass, the other matches a part of
his to them. If they agree in number or colour

of the lines, the one that matches wins five, or
otherwise loses the same number. The game,is

always forty.
On the 18th of May, several parties of Indians

arrived from the river Chein, for the purpose of

trading, consisting of Dog Indians, Gens-des-valch,

_Kaewas, and Kales. A trader likewise came in

from the Assinniboin river. They all assembled

at the village, at the mouth of the Warriuna riv-
er, and our camp moved up to the same village.

The trader soon procured what furs of any value
they had to dispose of, and departed. Mr. Pardo,

having procured asupply of ammunition, proposed
to ascend the Missouri, on a hunting expedition
with a party of Grossventres*, with whom he
was connected by marriage. His wife was the
daughter of the chief of this nation. He applied

to the chief of our camp, to whom I belonged,

J

whose name is eee for liberty for
me to accompany him.‘ chief ‘consented
that I should go with A on Me onaition that I

should give him a part of the skins I procured,

-and lent me an old musket. There were three of

* This name has been spelt “wrong and aieched. but still ay :
“wrong. The true spelling is found to be Gross-Vantres, or ~~

Groseventres. Also, Assinniboin river, is the true spelling.

180

the Sioux, one of whom was his relation, who
agreed to go with us.

We started on the 27th of May, crosséd Mis-
souri, and arrived the same evening at the upper
village. This village is situated on an Island, in
the Missouri, and is fortified in the same manner
as the lower village, containing about sixty huts.
Our party consisted of twenty-seven men, six
women, and four children ; none of the Gross-
Ventres having their families with them. The
next morning we proceeded, and soon left the
Missouri, travelling a northwest course, in a well
beaten path. The land on each side of us
ascended into high ridges. On the northern side
of them, was considerable timber, mostly cedar,
and the land poor. The path continued up the
vally, but often passing over low ridges. On the

29th, we struck a branch of the stream called by

the traders, Bali river. We followed this branch
to itsmouth. Here we crossed Ballriver. We
found some pleasant intervals on this river, but
most of the land is poor, dry ridges, with very
little timber. Our company soon took a course
more northwardly, until we came to the mouth of —
Chuss-chu| Here we came again to the

souri, and met a party of Man-:*

banks of the I
dans, hunting BaERoe. The principal game found —
here's is the ace, cabiee, or ase black |

181

‘lage, which is above the great bend of the Mis-
souri, is situated on a pleasant interval, cov-
ered with cotton wood and cedar. Is built
and fortified in the same manner as those of the
Rus.

Here a sight, new to me, and exceedingly dis-

‘agreeable, arrested my attention as soon as I
came in view of the village. This was their
manner of depositing the bodies of the dead.

“Immediately after my arrival I had an opportunity
of witnessing the funeral ceremonies practised by

_these people, which was in the following manner.

A. dead body was brought out of a hut, and laid
on the ground before it, dressed in its best ap-
parel, and wrapped in a buffaloe robe. The rela-
‘tions and principal part of the people in the vil-
lage, assembled around it. A fire was then made,

and the sacred stem, or pipe, was brought and
lighted.» The deceased having been a warrior,
an eulogy of considerable length was pronounced
by-his brother, in which he impressed on their
minds, the great importance which the deceased
man had been to their nation; rehearsed his war
exploits, and concluded by urging all to follow his
sxample, and to become of equal usefulness to

heir tribe. Then they would be sure of follow-'

g and becoming comipanions of him, and all the

neh great warriors, which had died before, in

he world of spirits. After this address was

iled dog’s flesh, of which the company just
me 16

Blosed, provisions were brought out, consisting of - haha

*

‘martin, fox, mountain cat, and white ermine,sewed,
. pecther like patch work, which gives them a ricl

182

tasted, and then a bowl full of it was presented to
the dead man. He was then taken up by four
men and carried outside of the village, just into
the edge of the woods, and placed on a stage
which had been previously erected, about ten
feet high. The bowl of food was brought and
set by his head, and his arms and accoutrements
Jaid by his side.. In this manner their dead are
deposited, and are never buried. The wife and
relations of the deceased made the most violent
and dreadful howlings, tearing their hair, and ap-
pearing to be in the deepest anguish, under the
loss they had sustained.

The Mandans and Gross-Ventres are of the
lightest complexion, and largest Indians on the
Missouri. ‘Their hair inclines to a chesnut col-
our, and in some instances has a slight carl 5 at
is never so lank and coarse as most other Indihns.
Their eyes are full and lively, their cheek bones

rather high, and -their countenances open and

agreeable. The Gross-Ventres have more of a
fierce, savage look, than the, Mandans who are ~
courteous and sociable in their behaviour. They
are neat in their dress, which is similar to that of
the Rus, excepting that they decorate it with
white rabbit, and white ermine skins. Many of »

their lodges, or huts, are decorated in a beautiful

manner; having the inside lined with the riches
furs, such as the lynx, beaver, otter, white rabbit, |

183

and beautiful appearance. The lodge of the head
chief was sixty feet in diameter, elegantly lined
with furs, and the seats, which are also used as
beds, were covered with the grizzly bear and buf-
faloe skins. These people keep their lodges and
buildings in a state of great neatness. They cul-
tivate the same kind of produce with the Rus,
and carry ona trade with the roving Indians, who
occasionally visit them. The Mandans and
Gross-Ventres live in great friendship, although

_ they speak different languages ; and it is neces-

sary they should, for their villages are not more
than six. miles apart. ‘The Mandans speak the
same tongue of the Osage, but have a different
‘accent, and dialect. They were once a numerous,
warlike people, but have been reduced by the
small pox, and by their enemies, the Sioux, to less
than four hundred warriors.

On the the 13th, we left the Mandans, and ar-
rived at the Gross-Ventres village, which is on
the lower side of Batteau river, and is called the
Meniture village. Another village, called Meni-
tar-u-miti-ha-tah, is situated on the upper side of
Batteau river. These villages are larger than

- the Mandans, built in the same manner, and con

taining about six. hundred warriors, and about
twenty-five hundred inhabitants. They were

formerly more numerous, but the smallepox has:

made its ravages among them.» These people
deposit their dead in the same manner as the -

‘Mandans, but at a greater distance from their vil-

184

lages. Soon after our arrival, a young chief, who”
accompanied us, found a young woman, with
whom he contracted matrimony, which afforded
an opportunity to witness their marriage ceremo-
nies. Proclamation was made, by one of the re-
lations, that on the next day, in the morning, the
marriage would be. celebrated. The next morn-
ing the bride was dressed in all her finery, and —
the groom inks this richest attire. The: company
assembled; at her father’ s lodge, where the chief
of the village attended. He informed the com-
pany, that the young man, calling him by name,
intended to take the girl, calling her by name, to
‘be his wifes. Hé then asked each of them if that
‘were their intention, which each of them answered
in the affirmative. ‘The chief then handed them a
small rod; which was broken between them.
The groom then broke his part into a number of
_ small pieces, and handed them to the men who
stood neayto him. ‘The bride did the same with
her part of the red, which consumated the mar-
Tlage. | Fire was then brought, and the sacred
pipe was lighted. After all the men had smoked
in it, the dance commenced, which was continued
for several hours. As soon as it was finished,
the groom took his bride to. his lodge to live with
him. .
These people entertain ideas of chastity very
different from any civilized nations If astranger
comes to reside with them in their cabins, for

several day s, he is presented. with the wife oa

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a

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a

daughter to be his bed-fellow, during his stay.
If a girl proves with child, it has no influence to
prevent her marriage, and the child is adopted by

her husband, and brought up as his own. Their
hospitality probably exceeds that of any other
people. They share the last mouth full of pro-
visions chearfully, with the greatest stranger, and
strive to make him as happy and contented as
possible.

Our party now prepared to set out for the sum-
mer and fall hunt, and it was determined to go to
the River Jaun or Yellow Stone, and tothe Rocky
mountain. All things being prepared to set off
the 2d of July was assigned, as is usual among
these people, for a day of feasting. The feast
was prepared, and the ceremonies conducted in
the same manner, as at the Rus village, which has
been described. After the smoking rite was fin-
ished, the head chief of the village addressed us.
He commended us to the care of the Great Spirit,
and. all the good subordinate spirits, wishing us a
bright sun and clear sky, that we might overcome
any enemy we might meet; that the evil spirits
would not spread sickness among us, and that all
of us, in due season, should return to the village,
loaded with meat and skins. The day was closed

. with feasting and dancing.

On the 3d of July, the party assembled to the
number of forty-three men, women and children;
nineteen of whom were men, besides Mr. Pardo
and myself. We were provided with thirty-six
(16%

186

horses; one I had hired for myself, and Mr. Pardo
had two for himself and squaw. About noon we
left the village, and proceeded up the Batteau
river, until we passed the second large fork, and
then we crossed it to the north side. The river
here was about an hundred yards wide, and ford-
able. The country was barren and hilly. On
the 7th, we came to Salt springs, where buffaloe
and cabree were very plenty; and the country
much infested with wolves, which were very rav-
enous. Some Indians had very lately removed
from this place. We supposed them to have been
some of the Gens-di-foulers, who live three miles
below the Gross-Ventres, on the Missouri. We
occupied their camp, and continued here until the
9th, when we proceeded a western course, crossing
a barren country destitute of. timber. On the
10th, we came toa branch of the Jaun, called
Road river, and followed this branch down to its
mouth} where, on the 15th, we arrived at the
Rivem Jaun, and encamped in a cotton wood
grove. The country near the Jaun is more level,
and some of the intervals are very rich; but large
barren hills are to be seen at a distance from the
river. A party of the Gens-des-corbeau, or Crow
Indians, had lately encamped at this place, and
their tent poles accommodated us. ‘The river is
about half a mile wide, and shallow, but not ford-
able. We supposed ourselyes about a hundred
miles from the mouth. Here we caught a number
of yery fine fish, mostly pike and cat On the —

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arith

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AMEN” oS

WT

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ny

is

Tey A crossed the’ Jaun, and passed up to the
mouth of the stream, called by the Indians, La-
ca-sha-newatu, or Crooked river, where, on the
19th, we encamped.

The Jaun is a noble stream, somewhat rapid,
the bottom sandy, and the water clear; excepting
when rain falis, and then it becomes immediately
thick from the earth that is washed into it from
the barren hills. Many of these hills are so
washed, and become so steep, that no animal can
ascend them, except the cabree and mountain
ram, or rocky mountain sheep. The grizzly
or white bear, is plenty in this country, and often
attacks the natives. We continued at this camp
until the 29th, and then proceeded up Crooked
river, and encamped near the first ridge of moun-
tains... Here we killed seyeral of these rocky
mountain sheep. dhe male is considerably |
larger than the female, and has much longer
horns. The hornsof a male which we killed,
measured three. fect in length, and five inches

diameter, at his head. This animal is taller than
-adeer, and has a larger body. It is covered with
soft hair of a dun colour, gradually becoming of

a lighter colour:towards the belly, which is en=—

tirely white. Its horns are shaped, in every res-
pect, like the horns of rz ams, of the common sheep, —
ere backwards, but have many rough knobs.

Its tail resembles that of the red deer. The legs
hand feet resemble the sheep, but the hoofs some
_ bat loge: It is swift and climbs the elifts of

age RY id Sellinet eo
i

188

rocks with somuch agility and ease, that adie
animal can follow it; and by this means it es-
capes ‘the wolves. Its flesh is esteemed equal to-
that of the deer. os

On the 3d of August, we moved up into the
mountains and met with acamp of Gens-de-panse,
or the Paunched Indians. We encamped with

them for the night, and on the 4th, about noon,

we had like to have been defeated, by a monstrous
white bear. Four or five of the men were ahead,

and turning the point of a steep hill, they met a _
white bear, and fired upon him, but only wounded —

him. He immediately turned upon them, and
they retreated. At the point of the hill they met
the rest of the party, the bear pursuing close to
their heels, which threw the whole party into con-
fusion. Not being room for us to escape, the

bear was ina moment in the, midst of us. As one
man turned and attempted to run, thebear seized

his buffaloe robe, and had not the fastening given
way, would have drawn him under his paws.
While he was spending | his rage on the robe, one
of the men shot him dead on the spot. As soon
as he fell, the whole party made the air ring with
their shouts. This bear was much larger than
the black bear. The meat only would have
weighed more than four hundred pounds. ‘The

‘mountains here are steep, and some of their’ points
and sides are covered with a small growth, “mostly

of the spruce kind. The stream we were ascend-
ing: is winding, interrupted, and full of rapids,

ry

189

but it is about one hundred yards wide. We en-
camped in a large interval, at the mouth of a
small stream, and continued here until the 12th.
The fur animals had now just done shedding, so
that we only hunted the buffuloe, cabree, and
mountain sheep. A party was sent to gain the
summit of a ridge, so as to pass over to the other —
side, while the rest of us crawled up, surrounding
them on every side, excepting towards the river.
‘As-soon.as the signal was given, by those who
thad ascended and gained the opposite side, we all
Waised a sudden yell, and sprang out of the gr ASS,
and the affrighted animals instantly fled from us,
pitched over the precipice, and were dashed
against the stones, at the bottom, where we killed
Sixty-one. Some of them fell nearly two hundred
feet; but some of them, which were near the bot-
ftom, made their escape. It took us several days
to dress and cure the meat. The method in
which these people cure their meat is to’ cut it into
hin slices, and dry it by the heat of the sun, ora
slow fire. They use no salt to preserve it. Meat
will continue in this state, if well dried, for a
long time. We killed a wildcat, which resembled
he domestic ¢at, and was of about the same size.
Tt was of a sallow colour, and had a tail nearly
of the length of the body. . This little animal is
ery fierce, and often kills cabree and sheep, by
jumping on their necks, and eating away the sin-
ews and arteries until they fall, and then sucks
fhe blood. On the 25th, we proceeded ‘Up,

: 190

eighteen miles, to the mouth of a large fork of
the river, which comes from the’north, and en-

camped on a plain. At this encampment, the

snow-topped mountains appeared to be at no great

distance. Here we found beaver in plenty ; and

as the fur had become good, we began to ‘trap’
them. One of the Indians killed a beautiful
wild cat, about one half larger than the house cat.
Its fur was long and exceedingly fine, covered |
with black and white spots on a bright ycllow

' pround. Its belly was pale yellow, and its tail.
about two inches long. It is the richest looking.
skin I ever saw. On the 28th, we killed two.
grizzly bears. In the evening we had a severe
storm of hail, and the ‘hail stones which fell were.
larger than musket balls. Here the mountain:
sheep are plenty, but they keep mostly on high’ |
ridges and the tops of the inaccessible mountains. |
On the 30th, moved further up the river, and |
caught anumber of the lynx, marten and ermine. :
The ermine is a beautiful little animal, as white as
milk, except the tip of the tail, which is of a jet)
black. Onthe 2d of September, had a heavy !
shower of snow, after which we returned to our.
encampment of the 28th of August. We contin-/
ued trapping here until-the 12th, when we crossed.
the river, took a branch which comes from the
southward, and followed it up about six miles,’
where we encamped in a small bottom. Here we!
found fur plenty, and caught a number of beaver
otter, marten, ermine, and two spotted wild cats

191

Buffaloe were plenty, but as we had secured as
much meat as we could carry, we seldom troubled
them. On the 16th, we proceeded about ten
miles further, and continued here until the 24th,
when having loaded our horses, we crossed over
a mountain, and encamped on a branch of Big- -
horn river. The weather was cold, and frequent
showers of snow made the travelling difficult.

Here the stream was rapid, about thirty yards
wide, and winding its way amongst the steep

mountains. We were however obliged frequently
#0 cross it ourselves, with our horses loaded with

as much as they could carry. On the 28th, we

came to a camp of the Crow Indians, where we
wested until the 30th, when we continued our
icourse down the river.

The Crow Indians speak either the Mandan or

Gross-Ventres tongue, or both of those languages.

They left the camp and accompanied us. Here
Wwe found the travelling less difficult than it had

een. Onthe 3d of October, we passed two

camps, and on the Sth, several more camps, on

our way to Big-horn river, where we arrived at.
might. Onthe south side isa winter camp of
the Crow Indians, consisting of forty-three huts.

Phese huts were sunk three feet below the surface.
of the ground, but otherwise are built nearly sim-

ilar to those of the Gross-Ventres. In the centre

: / post is erected, with notches cut in it for steps,

pnd a hole is left open at the top of it, suficiently

lange for a man to crawl out, which is their

192

passage out and in, during the winter. At thid
encampment we prepared our buffaloe skin canoes,
to descend the Big-horn river, which is large,
being three hundred yards wide, with a strong
current. On the 9th, we embarked, for the
mouth of the river, having detached eight Indians
to proceed with the horses by land. At night we
stopped at a camp of Crow Indians. Early in
the morning of the 10th, we again proceeded, the
current very rapid, and at night encamped. On
the 11th, we proceeded early, and at night, ar-
rived at the mouth of the river. Here isa village
of Crow Indians, but of a different band from
those we met with in the mountains. The Crow
Indians are divided into four bands, which they
distinguish by the following names, Ah-hah-hee-
no-pah. Nootsa-pah-zasah, Keet-keet-sah, and
LEhart-sah. ‘This village belongs to the Nootsa-.
pah-zasah band. The band we had left-was the
, Keet-heet-sah,andris the largest of them, consisting
of two hundred warriors. The band here con-
sists of one hundred and sixty warriors. This
band had lately been on a war expedition against
a nation of Indians, who reside on the west side
of Rocky mountains, called Pal-lo-to-path, or»
_Flat-heads, and had returned with sixteen pris=
oners, and a number of scalps. ae
The Flat-heads have a singular practice of flat-—
tening their heads, which is different from ¢ any
ether nation of Indianesin this country. It 1s”
effected in the following 1aanner. Soon after am’

'

‘ 7 f |

!

eS

BG ee

>
_

¥
4

ATM BAD NATION:

the &

A MAN of

we » :

: Woman. of ie FLAT HL RAD NATION,
Ek a Child with ushead in the Prax ae Me Be ac i €
La eae a ie

| ‘ ,

193s”

infant is born, two boards are prepared, by draw-
ing a dressed skin over them. One board*is
longer than the other, and the longest is placed on
the back part of the head, extending from the
neck about eight inches above the head; the
shortest board is placed against the forehead,

from the eyebrows, and meets the upper end of
the other board. It is then laced together at the
sides, and the head of the child is thus confined
between these boards, until the child has grown
to a considerable bigness. After the head is be-
‘come sufficiently flattened, it is taken out of this
‘compress. One of the prisoners .had her infant
child with its head in the frame. I alsosaw some
of the prisoners which were two or three years
old, who, I was informed, had the frame on when
they were taken. ‘This compression forms the
head into the shape of a wedge, swelling it out
over the ears, and gives the head a very singular
shape. These people are of a middle stature,
well formed, and of a pleasant countenance. Their’
skin of an olive colour, hair lank and coarse, and
ther features regular and handsome. The men

had a bone passed through the gristle of the nose..
which. separates the nostril, that extended the

width of the face. - All the hair on their heads
was pulled out, excepta lock on the crown, which

‘was left to grow its full length. This tuft of hair |

was divided into two parts, tied up in ashort cue,

and fell over each ear. Their dress consisted of

nothing more than leggins and mlotaieuAs exe
17 ;

ss

a

194:

cepting a young chief, who had a belt of white
ermine skins round his middle, and a necklace of
white bear’s claws around his neck. All the men
were tattooed on the breast, with two long, and
one short line, drawn horizontally, but on no other
part of the,body. The women wear their hair
tied up in two clubs, which hang over each ear,
and a long braid down the back. . They were not
tattooed, nor do they wear any ornaments, except
beads of their own make, formed out of sea shells,
abéut the size of a barberry. Their dress con-
sisted of a buffaloe robe, or a mountain sheep
skin, thrown over their shoulders, ground hog
skins sewed together, with the tails hanging out on
the fur side, fastened round their middle with a
belt of raw hide.

On the 13th, a large party of Snake Indians
arrived. This nation resides principally on the
head waters of the Big-horn river, and in the
most inaccessible parts of the recky mountains,
where they Have frequently to hide in caverns
from their enemies. Owing to their defenceless
situation, they become an easy conquest to any
nation disposed to attack them; and they are fre-
quently attacked for no other reason, than the
pleasure of killing them. Their appearance be-
spoke their distressed situation to which they are”
reduced. The complexion of these Indians is
dark, but their features are regular, although —
their visage is thin, and their eyes pretty much
sunk i into their heads. ‘Their bodies are fregentm

7 | a ft
ve | tg

195

ae

crooked, a thing very rarely to be seen among
Indians ; of a small size, thin and slender. Both
men and women have their hair hanging loose on
their heads, and only cut short over their eyes.
Their dress consists only of mountain sheep, ca-
bree or deer skins, thrown ever their shoulders.
The women sometimes: wore a girdle of loose
bark, tied round their middle, which was but an
indifferent covering. Their ornaments consisted
‘of white bear’s claws, and a few beads. The men
were armed with the Caesoe-tite, or war club, a
‘target or shield made of raw buffaloe hides, a
dagger made of bone, ten inches long, and a small
bow. We were the first white people which either
they, or the Fiat- heads had ever seen. The Flat-
heads, likewise, arm themselves with the war club,
in which a bone is fastened that projects three
inches, a bone dagger, and sometimes one made
of iron, which they work out themselves, ten
inches long, and three wide, at the handle ; aspear
pointed with bone or iron, and when they cross
the mountains to hunt the.buffaloe, they carry a.
bow with them. The buffaloe is not found on
the west side of the Rocky mountains, and there
these people subsist on fish and roots. |

Our horses arrived on the 15th, and on the
16th, we embarked, to ascend the Jaun river.
Onthe 17th, came to a camp of the Paunch In-
dians, where we halted for the horses. ‘These.
Indians reside mostly towards the head waters of
the river Jaun, and the branches of the Big-horn.
ig

.
.
a

196

They are a large, well looking people, somewhat
inclined to corpulency. From this circumstance
they have acquired the name of Gens-de-Panse,
but they call themselves A//-ah-kaa-wiah. They
speak a different language from the Gross-Ven-
_ tres. Their arms consist of bows and spears,
with buffaloe skin targets, much larger than those
made use of by the Snake Indians, and so thick
and firm that an arrow will not pierce them. They —
use a short bone dagger, andthe war club. A few
of them had guns, bat no ammunition. Many of
the Crow Indians and Gross-Ventres, are armed
jn the same manner.

On the 18th, our horses arrived, and we pro-
ceeded, passing many camps of Indians, and halted
at night on an island, where we killed a large
white bear. The river is rapid but has no obstruc-
tion. The ice now began to float, which ren-
dered our navigation dangerous in such slight
vessels. Here the Rocky mountains may be seen
at a distance to the westward ; but the land near
the river is mostly level, and though destitute of
timber, is apparently of a good soil. The general
course of the river is to the north, and sometimes _
west of north. On the 22d, we arrived at the
mouth of a large branch which comes from the
southeast, and encamped to wait for the horses.
About six miles up this branch, a party of Crow
Indians were encamped, and intended to spend
the winter. On the 25th,the horses arrived, and —
as the ice ran thick, took out our boats, and en-

197

camped for the winter. *Our encampment was it
a grove of cotton wood, and willows, and we
formed as comfortable huts as possible. Mr.
Pardo and myself built one for our own accom-
modation, with one adjoining for our horses.

On the 3d of November, the buffaloes descended
from the mountains in vast droves. The plains
were covered with them and with elk. The In-
dians hunt the buffaloe on horse back, with a bow
and a short spear. They ride as near as possi-
ble to the gang, and discharge their arrows, while
the animals are fighting their.dogs. A wounded
uffaloe, if he does not fall, frequently turns upon
the hunter, who depends upon the dexterity of his
horse, which has been trained up to the business,
for his escape. He then discharges more arrows,
and dispatches the animal with his spear. These
hunts are attended with considerable danger, and
‘sometimes with the loss of both horse and rider.
The country in which we were encamped is level
‘to the south, but tothe north and west the moun-
tains are in sift, with steep ridges, approaching
the river ; and to the eastis a large mountain,-

‘called the Turtle. This- mountain, with the
country round it, is covered with timber. Large
bands of Indians encamp near it, during the win-
ter for the conveniency of wood. In some places
‘wood is so scarce that they perish with cold, for
want of it.

17*

:

.
a
.

>

entirely insulated from the Rocky mountains,

198

The extensive country on the Jaun, or Yellow
¥iver, is exceedingly fertile. ‘Towards its head
waters the land is covered with large timber.
Grapes grow in great abundance wherever any
trees or brush are to be found. There are vast
thickets of plumbs, cherries, and crab apples. The
country is mostly level to the foot of the Black
mountains, which the Indians say, are completely
separated from Rocky mountains. A large river
passes between them, which runs to the southward.
The range of the Black mountains is from east to
west, but the Rocky mountains extend. from
north to south. The former are about four hun-
dred miles south of our winter encampment, as
the Indians compute the distance. They repre-
sent the country as fertile beyond description,
and as inhabited by numerous bands of Indians.
. The buffaloe, elk, cabree, deer, black and white
bears, are found there, in vast multitudes. The
Manclarie Indians are often at war with a nation,
which resides in the Black mountains, called,
F-a-kar-tha, who speak the same tongue with the
Snake Indians or the <Aliatans of the Rocky
mountains. This nation has also obtained the
nick name of Snake Indians, from the same cir-
cumstance; that is, because they hide themselves
in-caverns and among the rocks, to conceal them-
selves from their enemies, from whence they are
dragged out and killed like snakes. They are also
held in great contempt by other nations, who
consider them to be too mean to have existence.

199

The Indians say, that vast numbers of horses and
mules abound in, and about the Black mountains.
Towards the mouth of the River Jaun, the
country is open, level, with extensive prairies, or
natural meadows, covered with high grass, but
no wood, excepting cotton wood, willows, and a
few cedars. On the north side of the Missouri,
near the Rocky mountains, resides a nation of
Indians, who aré numerous, and who are the in-
veterate enemies of the Gross-Ventres and Crow
Indians, and frequently fall on their hunting par-
ties. Their are called Black-foot Indians. I
‘saw one of this nation, who was a prisoner taken
by the Crow Indians. He was. a large, well made,
and his complexion as light as the Gross-Ventres.
They are a roving nation, have no villages, nor
do they raise any kind of produce.

The weather becoming mild, on the 12th of
‘March, 1803, we moved up the river on which
we had encamped, called by the Indians Wan-tu-
se-car, or Stillwater river, which is about sixty
yards wide. On the 15th, came to galt springs, —
and boiled some of the water. Onthe 18th,
procured a small quantity of salt, which, to me,
was a great relief, as I had lost my appetite for
want of it; not having tasted any for more than
three months. On the 19th, moved our encamp-
ment on to high land, the Salt springs being ina
low interval, to avoid the water produced by the
melting of the snow. Here the Turtle mountaia
appeared at a great distance, in a southeast direc-

200

tion. On the 24th, the snow fell about a foot
deep. We proceeded in a northerly direction,
and encamped, at night, on a small stream, and
continued to the 30th, owing to the fleet and rain.
On the 30th, we continued our course, in the
same direction, through a plain country, in a well
beaten path, and on the 4th of April, came toa
branch of the Still-water river, where we en-
camped. to hunt. On the 8th, caught several
beaver, otter, and white rabits, which were very
numerous. On the 12th, we arrived at the river,
we had ascended in July, called Road river, and
on the 13th, came to the Salt springs, where we
procured a small quantity more of salt. On the
18th, proceeded to the mouth of Catteau, or
Knife river, where we arrived on the 24th of
April. On the 25th, a great feast was made with
the usual ceremonies.

We left the upper Gross-Ventres village, on the
4th of May, in company with a large number of
Indians for the trading post on the Assinniboin
river, distagt about one hundred miles, and on the
11th, arrived atthe station. I had formed a de-
termination to leave the Indians at this place, but
was prevented by the Sioux Indians, who were
with us. The Sioux Indian, who was. a relation
to the chief, was offered a musket, knife, and
hatchet, if he would let me go, but he refused,
declaring that I must go with him to his uncle.
The traders not being willing to offend’ the In-
dians, I was obliged to remain with them. On

. 201

the 5th of June, I parted with Mr. Pardo and my
ormer companions, and went with a party of
joux, of the T2z/on Okandanas band, for the heads
of Saint Péter’s river. The chief, MJan-da-ton-
gue-qua, was gone with part of the Bozs-bruil
band. On the 15th, we came to a band of the
Bois-bruil, on Saint Peter’s river, but the chief
was not with them. He had gone with a small
party to meet a band of Yanton-ansah Sioux, who
ere proceeding from the falls of Saint Anthony,
nthe Mississippi, where they had been to pro- _
ure merchandize, to trade with the other bands. }

The country we had lately passed through, was
nostly level, swampy, and full of small lakes,
covered very thick with timber, chiefly pine and
spruce. On the 17th, we proceeded down the
Saint Peter’s, and on the 20th, came to the en-
campment. This body of Indians consisted of
five bands; the Yanton-ansah, Wah-pa-coo-ta,
Titon-bois-bruil, Titon-okan-danas, and Titon-
‘sa-oo-nu, about four hundred warriors, and about
‘one thousand four hundred people. On the 27th,
the bands mostly separated, and the greater part
returned to the Missouri, among whom was the
\Bois-bruil band, who took the war path. The
greatest part of these Indians were well armed,
and mounted on good horses, On the 12th’ of
July, encamped at the forks of the River Sasqui,
a branch of the Missouri, On the 18th, these
bands separated, and we proceeded to the crossing
of the three rivers, on the Missouri, above the |

202

mouth of White river. On the 8th of August,
we arrived at the Missouri, and a party of us
went down to the Salt springs, and made a quan-
tity of salt. The water in the RiveSasqui and.
in the Three rivers is so brackish, as to be very
disagreeable to drink ; and many other streams on
the Missouri have a similar taste. On the 20th,
we returned to the encampment, and on the 28th,
I went with a party up the Middle fork of the
Three rivers, to hunt. The country is consider-
ably broken, and destitute of timber ; but numer-
ous salt licks anda plenty of game. On the 16th
of September, we returned, having loaded our
horses.

We remained at this encampment until the
27th, when we moved up to Teton river. I ob-_
tained liberty, on the 3d of October, to go to the
Rus village. Here I spent the winter with a
number of traders belonging to Saint Louis. ‘The -
Sioux are enemies to the traders, who follow this
employment on the Missouri. They hold them
in the greatest contempt, and always rob them
whenever they can get a good opportunity.

On the 12th of April, 1804, the traders left the
village, and went up the River Chein, or Dog
river, to trade. The chief MMun-da-tongue-gua
came to the village, on the 18th, and took me
with him on to the Sioux river, where we arrived
on the 6th of May, and continued until the 12th
of June, when we removed tothe River Sasqui.
On the 26th of August, a report was spread

203

mong the Indians, that a party, an army, as they
called it, of soldiers were coming up the Mis-
souri.* After dispatching messengers to all the
Indians near, they hastened. to the river, leaving
all their women and children with a few men in
he encampment. ‘They did not permit me to go
ith them. On the 25th of September, a council
as held on the River Sasqui, to deliberate on
the object this army should have in view, and to
determine what should be done. Lengthy debates
took place, and being much divided in sentiment
whether they should attack them, or not, they
lisolved the council on the 29th, without de-
ciding what should be done. Another council
as held on the 5th of November, consisting of
a much larger number, when they came to a de-
termination to invite the Rus to join them, and
o attack the soldiers early in the spring. They
also agreed to declare war against the Mandans
and the Gross-Ventres. During the winter, large
‘bodies of Indians assembled on the Sioux river
and the River Sasqui, near to the Missouri.

In the mean time, war was declared against
the soldiers and against the Mandans and Gross-
Ventres. Early in the spring the spies they had
va

*The army reported to be coming up the Missouri, was
‘doubtless, the party under the command of Captain Lewis’
and Captain Clarke, consisting of forty-five men, bound ona
voyage of discovery to the Pacific Ocean. This corps entered
the Missouri on the 14th of May, 1804, and passed the mouth
ofthe River Sasqui, about the 28thof August.

204.

sent out, reported that the soldiers had gone fur-
ther up the river, so that on the 4th of April,
1805, our camp, with the women and children,
moved on to the Missouri. Immediately after
I arrived here, I was so fortunate as to become
acquainted with Mr. Paintille,a Frenchman, who
had long resided in the country, principally with
the Titon-anah band of Sioux. We concerted
a plan for making an escape down the Missouri.
As he had a light canoe, we prepared ourselves
to leave the Indians, and accordingly, on the
night of the 26th of April, we were so happy as
to make our escape from these miserable beings.
In ten days we arrived at the town of Saint
John’s, whichis the upper settlement on the Mis-
souri river, and from thence we proceeded to the
lower settlements. Here I found myself in the
full enjoyment of a freedom, of which I had long
been deprived; having been a prisoner more than
three years and six months. During this period
I had been subjected to many severe sufferings.
Although I had always been well treated by the
Indians, I had undergone great fatigues, and was
often much distressed for provisions. Frequent
exposure to wet and cold, and the inclemency of
weather, brought ona rheumatism, which became
SO severe, as to confine me eighteen months after
I had obtained my liberty.

APPENDIX.

As an historical sketch has been given of the Indian na-
tions, within what is considered the limits of Louisiana, on
the western side of the river Mississippi, it is presumed
fhat some account of the natives residing west of the Alles
fhany mountains, and in the vicinity of the lakes, would be
acceptable. The following is given from the best materials
the writer was able to procure. To ascertain the numbers
of each nation, with any great degree of precision, is im-~
practicable. They are taken principally from former esti-
Mates, since which individual nations have doubtless consid-
erably varied in number, Since the close of the American
revolutionary war, some of the nations have increased in
population, while others have diminished. Mr. Imlay, in
his history of Kentucky, estimates the whole number of In-
dians, from the gulph of Mexico, on both sides the Missis-
sippi, to its head waters, to the gulph of Saint Lawrence ;
and as far west as the country has been explored, between
the Missouri and Saint a Fé; to be only 60,000 souls. This
estimation must be much less than their real number. Mr.
Purcell, who resided among the Indians, computes only the
Creeks, Chacktaws, Chickasaws, Cherokees, and Catabaws,
inthe year 1780, to consist of 13,516 warriors, and 42,033
Souls. The roying life and frequent migrations of the na-
tives, increase the difficulty of ascertaining the number of
‘particular nations. Tribes and small bands often separate
from their nation, and form ecnfederacies with others, or
find some new place of residence. After the establishment
of peace by General Wayne, at Greenville, in 1795, at which
time large tracts of land were ceded to the United States,
mearly all the Indians who resided on the lands, to which
is

206

their claims were extinguished, retread back, and found new
places of residence.

The most northern and eastern nations, near the lakes,
are the Six Nations. They have been so called by the En-
glish and Americans, but the French styled them Jrquois.
They call themselves A¢anuschioni, which in their language,
signifies the United People. This confederacy, which con-
sisted at first of only five natiows, is of ancient date. The
nations who first united were the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onon-

_dagas, Senecas, and Cayugas. About eighty years ago they
were joined by the Tuscaroras. The Mohawks were formerly
at the head of the confederacy, and were a very powerful
nation.. They inhabited on Mohawk river. The old Mohawk
town was at the mouth of Schohary creek, twelve miles west
of Schenectady, which was not entirely abandoned until
1780. Here is still the remains of an old church, built in
the reign of Queen Ann, They were strongly attached to
Sir William Johnson, and the Johnson family. About 300
went with Sir John Johnson, to Canada in 1776, and reside
in Upper Canada, on the northern waters of Lake Erie.

At the time of the American revolution, the Six Nations
were in alliance with the English, engaged on their side, and
made great depredations on the frontiers: Inthe year 1779,
the American troops gained a complete victory over them,
and destroyed all their towns. By a treaty at Fort Stanwix,
in 1784, a tract of land was assigned them, bordering on
Lake Erie and Ontario, and a quantity of goods given them
for their use and comfort. And bya subsequent treaty, at
Konon-daigua, in 1794, their boundary lines were varied, in
conformity to treaties they had made with the State of New
York, and the tract confirmed to them by the United States.
This tract is called the State Reservation, on which they
now reside. In consideration of the extinguishment of their
claims to other lands, and to secure perpetuate peace and
friendship, the United States delivered tothe Six Nations,
and to the Indians of other nations, residing among them,
and united with them, a quantity of goods to the value of
10,000 dollars,‘and stipulated an annuity of 4,500 dollars, te

207

be expended yearly, forever, in purchasing clothing, do-
mestic animals, implements of husbandry, and in compensa-
ting useful artificers, who shall reside with, or near them,
and be employed for their benefit. All the Mohawks and a
considerable part of the Cayugas have migrated to Canada.
It is thought probable they will all quit the United States,
‘and retire over the Lakes Ontario and Erie, and settle with
‘their former associates, There is an exact census of all these
Indians taken annually. The number of souls, in 1796, ex-
elusive of the Mohawks and Cayugas moved into Canada,
was 3,298. The Stockbridge and Brotherton Indians, who
are united with them and reside among them, are 1,210,
making the whole number of the Six Nations 4,508 souls.
“They can probably furnish about 1,400 warriors.
The Sachems, chiefs and warriors of the following na-
‘tions and tribes, having met together at Greenville, on 2
branch of the Great Miami, General Wayne concluded a
treaty of peace, harmony, and friendly intercourse between
the United States, and these Indians, on the 3d day of Au-
gust 1795. The nations and tribes were the Wyandots, Del-
awares, Shawanoes, Ottawas, Chippewas, Ottawa from San-
dusky lake, Putawatames ofthe River Saint Joseph, Puta-
watames of Huron, Miamies, and Eel-river, Eel-river tribe,
Miamis, Weeas for themselves and the Piankashow, Kika-
poos, Kaskaskias, and Delawares of Sandusky. ' By the third
article of the treaty, a general boundary line between the
lands of the United States, and the lands of the said Indian
tribes, was established. All the land lying eastwardly and
southwardly of the general boundary line.. These tribes
ceded to the United States, and relinquished all their claims
forever. They also made acession ef sixteen pieces of land,
of different dimensions, and at different places, within their
own line, as an evidence of returning friendship, and to pro-
vide for the accommodation, convenient, intercourse, and
mutual benefit of both parties. In addition to these cessions,
the said tribes relinquished all title and claim which they,
_orany of them, may have to the tract of 150,000 acres, near
‘the rapids of the Ohio river, which has been assigned to

Cte,

208

General Clark and his warriors ; a tract of land adjacent to:
post Saint Vicennes, on the Wabash, to which the Indiaa
title had been extinguished ; the land at all other places in
possession of the French people and other white settlers
among them, of which the Indian title had been extin-
guished ; and a tract at Fort Massac, towards the mouth of
the Ohio.

In consideration of these cessions, and with a view to pre-
serve peace and a friendly intercourse, the United States de-
livered to these tribes a quantity of goods, of the value of

20,000 dollars, and are hence forwarded every year forever,
to deliverthem like useful goods, suited to the circum-
stances of the Indians,to the amount of 9,500 dollars,valued at
the place wherethey are procured. These goods are to be
delivered in the following proportions; tothe Wyandots, the
yalue of 1,000 dollars; to the Delawares, 1,000 dollars; to
the Shawanese, 1,000 dollars; to the Miamis, 1,000 dollars ;
to the Attawas, 1,000 dollars; to the Chippewas 1,000 dol-
lats; tothe Putawatimes, 1,000 dollars; and to the Kicke-
poos, Weeas, Eel-river, Piankashaws, and Kaskaskias tribes,
500 dollars each.

The Wyandots inhabit the ‘country near the river Saint
Joseph and Fort Detroit, and have their hunting ground
about the western end of Lake Erie. Their warriors, some
years ago were two hundred and fifty, and the number of
souls estimated at about 800. A tribe of the Wyandots, re-
side near Sandusky, in the neighbourhood ofa tribe of the
Mohickons and Coghnawagas. The warriors of these three
tribes were, a number of years ago, three hundred, and the
mhabitants about 1,000.

The Delaware nation emigrated from the northern parts
of Pennsylvania and New-Jersey, and probably received their
name from their residence on the Delaware river. The
name by which they called themselves was Linnilenape,
which, in their language, signifies Indian. Men. They were
formerly a very numerous and powerful nation, but are
much reduced. Before the settlements commenced in the
State of Qhio, their villages were about midway between the

209

Ohio river and Lake Erie, onthe Muskingum, and on the
branches of Beaver. Creek and Guyehago, but they have
since retired to the country about Lake Erie. They are
naturally ingenious, intelligent and of a peacable disposition,
rarely contending with any of the neighbouring Indian tribes.
Lately they were hostile to the Americans, and committed
-depredations. The number of their warriors has been
computed to be six hundred, and their number of souls
about 2,000.

The Shawanoes resided on the head waters of the Scioto
and the northern branches of the Muskingum, but they are
how on Stone creek, which empties into the Great Miami,
and at the Miami villares. They have been able to raise three
hundred warriors. Parts of this nation have emigrated to

the southward of the Ohio river, and joined the Creek con-
federacy. It has been said of the Shawanoes that they are
generally handsome featured, of a rather small size, and a
very chearful, crafty people: that counselling among the
old people, and dancing among their young men and women,
occupies a great portion of their time.

The Ottawa nation is divided into several tribes or bands.
The largest part of the nation live not far distant from De-
troit, and hunt about Lake Erie, and some time past, could
raise four hundred warriors. Another part resides on the —
eastern side of Lake Michigan, about twenty miles south-
ward of Michilimackinack. Their hunting ground is between
this lake and Lake Huron. They have been able to furnish
about two hundred warriors. One of the tribes live near the

‘Chippewas, on Saguinam bay, who, together had two hun-
dred warriors. Another tribe resides near Fort Saint Jo-
seph, and have about one hundred and fifty warriors. And
one other small band live near Sandusky, who are supposed
to have not more than about fifty Warriors.

The Chippewas are a very numerous nation, divided inte
& vast number oftribes and bands, which are scattered over
a tract country represented by M‘Kenzie, to extend two
thousand miles. Some of them reside on Lake Huron; oth-
ers on the borders of Lake Superior, on the Chippeway riv-

18% :

216

e, on both sides of Mississippi; and as far to the westward
as the Assinniboin river. Very little appears to be known
of the numbers which compose this nation. The tribes im-
habiting the coasts and islands of Lake Superior, according
to Hutchins, can furnish one thousand warriors. THose re-
siding in ihe country about Saguinam and Puan bays, and on
the borders of Huron and Machigan, together with the tribes
of Saukees and Mynomanies, who live near them, are esti-
mated at five hundred and fifty warriors. These last mer-
tioned tribes were hostile to the United States, and signed
the treaty at Greenville. ;

The Putanotimes-consist of two tribes, one of which re-
sides on the River Saint Joseph, and the other.near Detroit:
Their warriors are estimated at about five hundred. These

.4ribes were both hostile to the United States, and were par-
ties in the treaty at Greenville.

The Miamies who signed the Greenville treaty, (it is pre-
sumed)-inelude those only who inhabit the village of that
name near the Miami Fort. Their number of warriors is
‘unknown.

The Miamis nation live on the Miami of the lakes, and on
lands southward of Lake Michigan. They can furnish about
three hundred warriors.

The Eel-river Indians reside on a river of that name,
whichis ahead braneh of the Wabash. Their number of
warriors cannot be ascertained.

Kathtippacamunch was an Indian village, situated on the
north side of the Wabash river, at the mouth of Tippacanoe
creek, about twenty miles above the lower Weeatowns. In
1791, before it was destroyed by Generals Scott and Wilkin-
son, it is said to have ** contained one hundred and twenty
houses, eighty of which were shingle roofed. The best
houses belonged to the French traders. The gardens and
improvements round were delightful. There was a tavern
with cellars, bar, public and private rooms; and the whole
‘marked no small degree of order and civilization.”

Not far distant from the mouth of Tippacanoe creek, is
the town of the inuch famed Indian Prophet, who is said te |:
be a Shawanoes.

2ti

The Piankashaws, Kickapoos, Musquitons, and Ouiatanog,
are tribes on the branches of the Wabash and _Tlinois
yivers. They could raise, according to Hutchins, one thou-
sand warriors. Other tribes of the Kickapoos reside at the
entrance of Lake Superior, and could raise four hundred
warriors. Another tribe inhabits with the Otutagamies and
Musquateys, between Michigan and the Mississippi, who
together had one thousand warriors.

The Naudowesies live between Michigan and Lake Su-
perior, and have five hundred warriors. The Killistinoes on
Lake Superior, and have two hundred and fifty warriors.
Mingoes on the Scioto, and have fifty warriors lLezars
between the Wabash and the mouth of the Ohio. The
greater part of these Indians have taken up new places of
residence.. They had three hundred warriors, Outimaes}
between Michigan and Lake Saint Clair. Warriors two
hundred. Winnebagoes inhabit about the Lake of the same
name, south of Green bay. Their village. is situated on an
island near the end of the lake, and can raise about three
hundred warriors. Illinois tribe inhabit a village near €a-
hokia river on the Mississippi, and can furnish two hundred
and sixty warriors. There are a number of other tribes,
towns and villages, north of the River Ohio, within the
boundaries of the United States; especially in the extensive

country between the Illinois river and the Upper lakes. But
the deficiency of information is too great to attempt any
description of them..

South of the Ohio, the Cherokee nation inhabit a tract of
country lying in the southern parts of Tennessee, and north-
ern parts of Georgia, being separated on the east from North
and South Carolina, by the Apalachian or Cherokee moun-
tains, and extending on the west, to Duck river, running into
the Tennessee. By a tract concluded between the United
States and the Cherokee nation, at Hopewell, in November,

1785, the boundary between the citizens of the United States,
and the country allotted to this nation for hunting ground
is particularly designated. The Cherokees have been a
famous Indian nation, but is now on the decline, Frequent

aay,

212

wars with the northern tribes, and with white people, have
greatly reduced their numbers. They are said to have had
two thousand five hundred warriors, but they are now esti-
mated at one thousand five hundred. They have about forty-
five towns in which they reside when they are not engaged
inhunting or war excursions, They are a tall, robust, and
well formed people, of a lighter complexion than the neigh-
bouring Indian nations, The men are very generally six
feet in height. The women are also tall and of an handsome
figure, rather slender and delicate. This nation has been
much celebrated. for their talents and correct morals.

The Chickasaws reside in the Mississippi Territory, on
the Yazoo river, and westward of the Tennessee river, as far
north as the Ohio, of and down the Ghio and Mississippi, to
the Chactaw line of Natchez district. The boundary of the
lands allotted to this nation is particularly described in the
treaty of Hopewell on the 10th of January, 1786. Their
country lies north of the Chactaw nation, and is very much
an extended plain with little rising land. It is well watered
and the soil generally good. They reside in about seven
or eight towns and had formerly five hundred and seventy-
five warriors, and seventeen hundred and twenty-five souls:

The Chactaws, a powerful, subtle, hardy, Indian nation,
reside between the Tombigby and Mississippi rivers. The
limits of the country, within the United States on which
this nation is to live and hunt, was particularly stipulated
at the treaty of Hopewell, on the 3d of January, 1786. Their
“tountry is hilly, with extensive, fertile plains intervening
between the high lands. Unlike most of the Indian nations
they have paid considerable attention to husbandry, Some
of them have large farms, in a good state of culture, and
many of them spend much of their time in agricultural im-
provements. Although they do not possess one quarter
part of the quantity of land which the Creek nation oecupies,
their number of people is more than two thirds as large ag
the Creek confederacy. Many years ago they. had forty-three
towns and villages, containing 4,041 warriors, and 12,123
souls. Since that time they are supposed to have consider-

y

213

ably increased in population. These people are said to be
slovenly and dirty in their dress, but ingenious, sensible and
virtuous. Late travellers, however, have represented them
as paying little regard to their moral conduct, and that un-
natural crimes were too frequently practiced among them.
There is an inveterate enmity between the Choctaws and
Creek Indians.

The Creek confederacy forms the largest and most pow-
erful nation of Indians south of the Ohio. The nation with
whom the confederacy originated, was called Muskogulge. |
who emigrated from the west, beyond the Mississippi, and
éstablislied themselves on the ruins of the Natchez. These
people made their first settlement on the Oakmulge Fields, in
the State of Georgia. They gradually subdued their sur-

rounding enemies, and then strengthened themselves by
taking into confederacy the vanquished tribes. The princi-
pal nations and tribes composing this union, are the Appa-
lachies, Alabamas, Abecas, Cawillaws, Coosas, Conshacks,
Coosactees, Chacsihoomas, Natchez, Oconies, Oakmulgies,
Okohoys, Pakanas, Taensas, Talepoosas, Weetunkas, and
others who have since been united with them. This con-
federation has rendered them formidable to all the nations
around them,.as well as tothe white people, and has ren-
dered them victorious oyer the Chickasaws. They are
divided into Upper Creeks, and Middle and Lower Creeks,
The Upper Creeks include all the waters of the Koose, Tale-
poose and Alabamarivers, and are called £bbaco. Their
hunting ground extends to the Tombigby river, which is
the dividing line between the Creeks.and Chocktaws. The
Middle Creeks inelude all the waters of the Chattahoose
and Flint rivers, down to their junction, and although oceu-
pied by a great number of different tribes, the whole are
called Coweta people, from the Cowetan town and tribe, the
most warlike, and one of the most ancient of the Creek na-
tion, The Lower Creeks take in the Appalachicola river,
and extend to the point of East Florida. This division is
called the Seminoles. They have fifty-five principal towns,
besides many villages. The smallest towns have from twenty

214

to thirty, and some of the largest from one hundred and
fifty to two hundred houses. The towns are all built com-
pact. The houses stand in clusters of 4, 5,6, 7 and 8 to-
gether, irregularly arranged up and down the banks of the
rivers and sinall streams. Each cluster contains a clan, or
family of relations, who eat and live incommon. Each town
has a public square, hot-house and yard near the centre,
appropriated. to various public uses. General M‘Gillivra,
estimated the number of warriors to be about six thousand
exclusive of the Seminoles, who are considered of little ac-
count inwar, From their roving manner of living it is im-
possible to ascertain the number of Creek Indians with
much precision. They probably may have about 26,000
souls,

The land which thay claim as their country isa common
stock ; and any individual may remove from one part of it
to another, and occupy vacant ground where he can find it.
They have considered their boundary northward, to be
some where about the forty-second degree of north latitude
{as it has been found by surveyers), extending westward to
the Tombigby river, and eastward to the atlantic ocean :
but they have ceded parts of this tract onthe sea coast, lone
ago, -by different treaties to the State of Georgia. Their
country is hilly, but not mountainous; the soil fertile ;
abounding with creeks, from whence they are probably called
the Creek Indians. They have been very desirous to agree
with the United States on a permanent boundary line, over
which the southern States should not trespass. In August
1790, the United States concluded a treaty with the Kings,
chiefs and warriors, of the Creek nation, at New-York. - By
this treaty the boundary line was to begin where the old
line strikes the River Savannah; thence’up the river to a
place called Keowee, where a northeast line to be drawn
from the top of the Occunna mountain shall intersect ;
thence along the said line in a southwest direction, to Tugelo
niver; thence to the top of the Currahee mountain; thence
to the head or source of the main south branch of the Oconee
river, called the Appalachee ; thence down the said branch

215

and River Oconee, to its confuence with ‘the Oakmulgee,
which form the River Altamaha to the old line, and thence
along the old line to the River Saint Mary. The United
States were, from time to time, to furnish the Creek nation
gratuitously with useful domestic animals and implements
ef husbandry. A subsequent treaty was concluded, at Cole-
rain, in June 1796, confirming the former treaty, providing
that the boundary line from the Currahee mountain, should
be clearly ascertained and marked, and stipulating to give
to the said nation, goods to the-value of 6,000 dollars, and
to send two black smiths, with strikers and necessary tools,
to be employed for the Upper and Lower Creeks.
‘Considerable improvements have been made by these
people in agriculture, but they have been extremely deficient
in their implements of husbandry. A yery large part of the
‘nation being devoted to hunting in the winter, and to war
oridleness in the summer, they cultivate only small tracts
ofland which are barely sufficient to afford them sustenance,
Some, who possess numbers of negroes, have foneed fields ;
but having no ploughs, they are obliged to break” up, and
cultivate the ground with hoes. The seed is scattered over
the ground promiscuously, and not planted in rows. The
articles they cultivate, are tobacco, rice, Indian corn, ‘pota-
toes, beans, peas, cabbage and melons. Such fruits as
peaches, plumbs, grapes, and. strawberries, they have in
great plenty. They raise great numbers of horses, cattle
and hogs, and abound in turkies, ducks and other poultry.
‘They manufacture earthern pots and pans, baskets, horse
ropes or halters, smoakéd leather, black marble pipes,
wooden spoons, and oil fr om acorns, hickory nuts and
ehesnuts.
The Creeks are not disposed to have much intercourse

‘with white people, especially foreigners, except with the.
English. Their prejudice is strong in favour of that nation,
and they still believe “the Great King over the water” is
able to keep the whole world in subjection. They have a
particular fondness for British guns, drums, and other arti-
‘eles manufactured. by the English people.

216

it is said the Muskogulge language, which is soft and
musical, is. spoken throughout the confederacy, although
different tribes retain their native tongues. These people
are generally well formed, expert, hardy, sagacious and
politic, They are extremely jealous of their rights, and
averse to narting with their lands. They are faithful friends,
but inveterate enemies ; hospitable to strangers; and hon-
est and fair in their dealings. They have a most contempt.
able opinion of the white man’s faith, and yet place great
confidence in the justice and integrity of the government of
the United States. Thoy have no coercive laws, but sup-
port an excellent policy in their civil government. Itis said
some of their most favourite songs and dances, they have
received from their enemies, the Choctaws, who are distin-
guished for poetry and music. ‘They allow polygamy in the
sreatest latitude. Any man may take as many wives as he
pleases, but the first wife is to be treated as queen, and the
rest as only hand-maids and associates. One of the regula-
tions said to have been adopted by the Creek nation, merits
the highest commendation. It is the prohibition of the use
of spirituous liquors. {n their treaties with the white peo-
ple, it has been said, they have insisted that no kind of spir-
its should be sold to their people; and when attempts have
been made to run kegs of spirits, the Indians, on a discoy-
ery, have destroyed them with their tomahawks.

The Catalaw nation is only the remnant of a formidable,
brave, generous people, now reduced to a small -tribe.
They reside ona river of the same name, which forms a
boundary line between North and South Carolina. “In their
present situation, they are entirely surrounded by white in-
habitants. A tract of land of 444,000 acres, has been
assigned them, on which they have agricultural improve-
ments. They are said to consist of about four hundred
and fifty souls, and have about one hundred and fifty
warriors.

An account has been given of a particular tribe of Indians
residing, on elevated land, in a part of the Eokeefanoke, or
Ekanfanoga swamp, between Flint and Qakmulgee rivers;

a 34

‘ 217

¥rom which the River Saint Mary takes itsrise. It is called
a Jake, or rather a marsh, three hundred miles in circumfer-
ence. The account given of these Indians, borders too
much on romance to deserve much credit. The lake or
marsh is called Quaquaphenoga. ** In wet seasons it appears |
like an inland sea, and has several large islands of rich land ;
one of which the present generation of Creek Indians repre-
sent as the most blissful spot on earth. They say it is
inhabited by a peculiar race of Indians, whose women are
incomparably beautiful. They tell that this terrestrial par-
adise has been seen by some enterprising hunters, when in
pursuit of their game, who being lost in inextricable swamps
and bogs, and on the point of perishing, were unexpectedly ,
relieved by a company of beautiful women, whom they call
daughters of the sun, who kindly gave them such provisions _
as they had with them; consisting of fruit and corn cakes,
and then enjoined them to fly for safety to their own coun-
try, because their husbands were fierce men, and cruel to
strangers. They furiher say, that these hunters had a view
of their settlements, situated on the elevated banks of an
island, in a beautiful lake; but in all their endeavours to
approach it, they were involved in perpetual labyrinths, and,
like enchanted land, still as they imagined they had just
pained it, it seemed to fly before them ; and having quitted
the delusive pursuit, they with much difficulty effected
their retreat. .

“They tell another story concerning this sequestered
country, which seems not improbable, which is, that the
inhabitants are the posterity of a fugitive remnant of the an-_
cient Yamases, who escaped massacre, after a bloody and
decisive battle between them and the Creeks, (who, it is
certain, conquered and nearly exterminated that once pow-
erful people), and here formed an asylum, remote and secure
from the fury of their proud. conquerors. The River Saint
Mary and Sitilla, which fall into the Atlantic, and the beauti-
ful Little Juan, which empties into the bay of Appalachi, at

Saint Mark’s, are said by Bartram, to flow from this lake.”’*

* See Ouaquaphenogaw, American Gazetteer.

19

vie tye!

218

Mr. Purcell, in his account of the population of the Indian.

nations south of the Ohio, has stated the number of war-

riors to be 13,516, which is 1,260 more, than is here given.
The number of souls are considerable less, being 42,033,
and 2,260 less than the preceding estimation. Although
he appears to have taken. his numbers from actual enumera-
tion, he makes the propdrtion of warriors, to the number of
souls, only a small fraction more than three souls to one
warrior, which is considerably less than the common rule of
calculation.. It isnot improbable, however, that his account
is correct. It has been a general opinion that these nations
have been increasing in number, fora considerable time

» Past. The greatest enemy to their population has doubtless

been the intemperate use of spirituous liquors.

219

Table of the probable number of warriors and
Indians, residing west of the Allegany mountains «

ity of the lakes, within the limits of the United St.
caucasian inc eteeensiossgssie-Sadeuataak ecieemmuny eae ter ememntteasuatnieieeieastanuue ieee

Names.

NorTu OF THE Onto.

Six Nations,
Wyandots,
Wyandot tribes,
Delawares,
Shawanoes,
Ottawas,
Chippewas,
Putawatimes,
Miamis,
Piankoshaws,
_ Kickapoos,
Musquitons,
Ouiatanos,
Kickapoos,
Ousingaries,
Musquakeys,
Naudowesies,
Killistinoes,
Mingoes,
Lezars,
Outimaes.
Winnebagoes,
Tilinois,

SouTH oF THE OH?o.

Cherokees,
Chicksaws,
Chocktaws.
Creeks,
Catabaws,

No. Warriors. | Bstim >.

1400 aaa

2350) SOO
300 JOE
600 DOUG»
300 900".
900 3000

1550 4000
500 2000
300 1000

1000 3500

1000 3500
500 2000
230 800

50 200
300 1000
200 700

300 1000
260 1000

1500 4000
575 1725

4041 42128

6000 26000
150 450

223226 77,104

THE END,

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