TIBET

PRINTED BY

SrOTTISWOODE AND CO., NKW-STKEET SQUARIC

LONDON

\, \ • N A ir^

Of THC

I'N/VERS/TY

THE AUTHOR IN CHINESE TRAVELLING DRESS.

TO

THE 8N0WS OF TIBET

THROUGH CHINA

BY

A. E. PRATT, F.E.G.S.

GILL MEM0UIALI3T
1S9I

author's CHINESE XAMK

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP

LONDON
LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO.

AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST IG'h STREET
1892

All ri'jhts reserved

(fS/OA/^'

TO

J. H. LEECH, E.^Q.

B.A., F.L.S., r.Z.S., F.R.G.S., &c.

A DISTINGUISHED ENTOMOLOGIST

THIS VOLUME IS GllATEFULLY DEDICATED

BY THE AUTHOK

PEEFACE

It was not until after my return to Europe that the
thought occurred to me of putting the notes of my ex-
periences in China into the shape of a book, which is now
presented to the reader. The work makes no pretension
to be anything more than a straightforward, unvarnished
account of trips into very httle known parts of China
and Tibet. I have avoided, as far as possible, descrip-
tions of places and scenes which have been previously
descril^ed, and have also done my best to withstand the
temptation to generalise from limited experience, to
which travellers in China seem peculiarly liable. I avail
myself of this preface to express my deep obligations to
many friends who have helped me in one way and
another. Especially I would offer my thanks to Mon-
seigneur Biet, of Ta-lsien-lu, for much kindness on the
occasion of both my visits.

viii PREFACE

To Lieut. Alexander Cochran, E.N., I also owe my
thanks for his assistance in compiUnp- this work from
the rough notes of my journeys. Space will not permit
me to do more than briefly express my thanks to the
three following members of the Consular Service, Messrs.
Gregory, Fraser, and Cockburn, late British Resident
of Chung-king ; also to the Eev. George Cockburn and
Dr. A. Henry of Ichang, Bishop Benjamin, Peres Soulie,
Dejean, Mossot, and other fathers ; Mr. Thomas Wood
of Messrs. Drysdale, Ringer, & Co., Shanghai, the Rev.
Benjamin Ririe, the Rev. Joshua Vale of Kia-ting-fa,
and the Rev. John Hykes and Dr. Underwood of Kiu-
kiang, from all of whom I received great courtesy, and
all the help they could give me.

A. E. PRAFT.

12 WiNTON Street, Eyde, Isle of "Wight :
Fehruary 26, 1892

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

THE YANG-T/E AS FAR AS ICHANG

PAGE

Object of journey — Departure from England — Arrival at Shanghai
— Kiu-kiang — ' Little Orphan ' — Lu-shan Hills — Flowers —
Temples— Rainfall — New snake — Collector bitten — Silver work
— Hankow — Passport obtained — Leave for Ichang — Sunday
Island^House rented — Cesspool — House-boat hired — San-yu-
tung — Joss-house — New papilio — Ferns and plants — Fishermen
— Birds and monkeys — Wild goats — Flying squirrel — Chinese
mountaineers — General aspect of glen — Return to Ichang . 1

CHAPTER II

ICHANG

Packing collections — Packing-cases — Curiosities — Trade of Ichang
— Imports — Communication with Hankow — Missions and mis-
sionaries— Festival of New Year — Beggars, their misery and
harsh treatment — Procession to pray for rain — Joss-house to
bring luck — Golden pheasants — Fish of the Yang-tze — River
porpoise — Otters for fishing — Cemetery — The Dome — Floating
lamps . . , . . . . .14

CONTENTS
CHAPTER III

EXPEDITIONS TO CHANG-YANG AND SIN-TAN RAPID

PAOK

Want of forest near river — Chang-yang — Journey to — Description
of Country — Pigs and leopards— Jungle — Reeves' pheasant —
Return to Ichang — Enormous creepers — Soap trees — Ichang
Gorge — Pin-san-pa — Mu-tan Rapid — Ta-tung Rapid — Curiously
worn rocks— Crews of large junks— Lu-kan Gorge — Shale—
Sin-tan Rapid — Me-tan Gorge — Insults at Sin-tan — Chinese
monopoly of steam navigation— Steps up precipices — Nan-too
— ' Needle of Heaven ' — Arrival at Ichang . . .27

CHAPTER IV

CHANG-YANG

Preparations for trip to Chang-yang— Hiring coolies — Passport —
Start with Dr. Henry — Description of House — Robbery of cash
— Collecting Coleoptera — Pony killed by tiger — Tigers common,
but no man-eaters — Poisoning tigers — Wild pigs— Boars' tusks
offered for sale as tigers' teeth— Deer- Porcupines — Pheasants
— Plants and flowers- Hostility of natives — I complain at
Ichang — Punishment of agitators — Excursion to the South — ■
Deep ravines — Etu River — Varnish tree — Method of collecting
varnish— Trade of district — Edible fungus— Heavy damages —
Preparation for return to Ichang . . . .40

CHAPTER V

SHA-SHIH AND PA-CHOW

Excursion to Sha-shih — Large town with considerable trade — Rav-
ages of cholera - Ho-sia — Try to find lakes, but fail — Trouble at
a village —False information — Further insults —Treachery of
coolies — Arrival at boat — Sturgeon — Stopped by head wind —
Washing for gold— Tiger's Tooth Gorge— Loss of silver-laden
junk —Return to Shanghai with Mrs. Pratt— Purchase cases for
collections and duck-guns — Wild-fowl on Yang-tze — Return to
Ichang — Floods — Decrease in size of river above Tung-ting

CONTENTS xi

Lakes — Arrive at Ichang— Contract for boat to be built — Delay
in building — Trip to Pa-chow —Cranes and storks at Hope
Island — Geese at Pa-chow — Etu — Ileturn to Ichang — Depar-
ture of Mrs. Pratt and children for England — Description of
boat and arrangements on board . . . .5-4

CHAPTER VI

THROUGH THE GORGES OF THE YANG-TZE

Captain and crew of boat — Trackers — Stores taken— Start up the
river— Ta-tung Rapid — Life-boats — Wreck passed — Sin-tan
Rapid — An anxious night — Me-tan Gorge — Kwei — Yeh-tan
Rapid — Pa-tung-hsien — "Wild rose — Absence of birds — Wu-shan
Gorge — Fung-sien Gorge —Accident in a rapid — Striking scenery
— Chinese cothns — Road making— Brine springs — Quei-chow-fu
— Examination of passports — Trade of the place — Escort — Dog
overboard — Bad rapid — Riverside villages — Wan-hsien — Oppor-
tunity to send letters — Orange trees — St. George's Island —
Liing-chau .......

CHAPTER Vn

JOURNEY UP THE RIVER CONTINUED

Necessity of haste — Intricacy of channel — Pagodas — Gold washers
— Fu-chau — 'Weigeren' boat — Meet Mr. George — Collecting
larvae and Coleoptera — Arrive at Chung-king — Visit Resident —
A large and important town— Change in crews — Disagreeable
incident — Leave Chung-king — Fine scenery — Bamboos and
llamoo trees — Heronries — Vexatious delay — Cedars— Hostility
at a small town — Poppies and tobacco — "We land but are obliged
to retiirn — Robbery on board — Rise in river — Boat in dangei* —
Man overboard — Lu-chau in ruins — Meet Mrs. Riley — Arrive at
Sui-fu — Beautiful place — Natives Mahommedan principally and
well disposed to foreigners — Large trading place — Upper Yang-
tze— Leave for Kia-ting-fu — Fishing with cormorants — Ancient
caves — Chien-wei-hsien— Brine wells — Suicide of soldier — Chu-
ken-tan ........ 85

xii CONTENTS

CHAPTER VIII

KIA-TING-FU TO WA-SHAX

I'AGF.

Arrival at Kia-ting-fn — Attack l)y students— Stone tin-owing —
Retreat to a safe position— Message from Tao-tai — Am prisoner
in boat — Prepare for overland jonrney — Assistance from mis-
sionaries— Instructions to lowban- -Adopt Chinese dress —
Colossal image — Visit from Tao-tai — Reports about boat-
Explanations — Difliculty as to route — Leave for Wa-shan — Su-
clii — Dcnrlrohiiim seen — Omei-hsien — "Wax insect, how made
use of — Yang-tsun — Ilsin-chang — Robbers outside inn — Lolo
houses — Dangeroxis paths— ' Times ' of 1877 at Lulu-ping —
Tung River — Antelopes at Chin-kou-lio— Arrive at Ta-tien-
chih — Pere Martin — Wild animals and birds in district — Fruits
and flowers — Trip to base of Wa-shan— View — Icicles — Tribu-
tary Lolos — Collections — Arrival of mail- -Description of Moimt
Wa 102

CHAPTEE IX

WA-SHAN TO TA-TSIEN-LU

Decide to visit Ta-tsien-lu — Preparations for joimiey — Coolies' loads
— So-i-ling Pass — Huang-mu-chang — Pere Martin — Chin-ki-za
— Fu-lin — Its trade and produce — Inhospitality — Trouble about
horses and coolies — Procure mules biit lose them at Ni-tou —
Fei-yueh-ling Pass — Pines and rhododendrons— Magnificent
view — Dirt and discomfort at Leng-chi — Valley of the Tung
River — Suspension bridge at Lu-ting-chiao — Cha-pa — Wel-
comed by missionaries — A flood in a watercourse —Bad road-
Ruined hoiises — The Tmig in flood — Trafhc on the read — Fruit
at Wa-ssu — Road to Ta-tsien-lu — Zones of vegetation — Single
rope bridge — .U-rival at Ta-tsien-hi — Kindness of Bishop Biet . I'iO

CHAPTER X

TA-TSIEN-LU

Meet Mr. Rockhill — His journey — Missionaries give great assistance
— Christian collectors — Hard life and devotion of tlie mission-
aries— Description of tlie inn — Prayer papers- Caravans —

CONTENTS xiii

Caravan drivers— Their cliesR— Tlio landlady's wealth— Value
of gold — City of Ta-tsien-ln — Its inhabitants— Their dress and
arms — Lamas — Funeral rites of a lama — Brick tea — Loads

can-ied by coolies — Trade— Distance tra\elled by caravans

Currency- Sealincj-wax — Women's feast— Sanscrit inscriptions
— Despatch carriers between Pekin and Lhassa — Departure of
Mr. Rockhill — Misfortunes of his men — Tibetan dogs — Expe-
dition to Chet-tu — Poor lodgings — CrossojMlon Tihetanum seen
— Pai-nassiiis Imjjcrator — Expedition to the north— Shooting
CrossoiAilon — Prepartions for departure . . . 134

CHAPTER XI

RETUEN JOURNEY TO ICHANG

Departure for Wa-ssu — Difliculty at Fu-lin — Huang-mu-chang —
Road lost — So-i-ling Pass at night — Arrive at Ta-tien-chih
at midnight — Collectors work — Horses procured — Guard of
soldiers — Arrive at Kia-ting-fu — Carelessness with mails — Go to
my boat — Very heavy flood — Great loss of hfe — False rumours
concerning the object of my journey — Inspection of boat by Tao-
tai — Visit to city — Lowban procures flag — Leave for Ichang —
Destruction of village — Boat aground in wrong channel — Pass
Sui-fu — Lu-chau — Delayed by heavy rain — Arrival at Chung-
king—Delayed by high river at Quei-chow-fu — Wrecks of
junks — Pass the Sin-tan and Ta-timg rapids — Waterfalls . 14'i

CHAPTER XII

SECOND JOURNEY TO TA-TSIEN-LU

Arrival at Ichang — Story of the lowban's flag — Despatch collec-
tions— Leopard on the river bank — Trip to Hankow — Telegi'aph
line — Official letters concerning ray boat — I'repare for jouriiey
up river — Boat damaged on rock — Curious pagoda at Shi-po-
chia — Arrive at Chung-king — Collector sent to Quei-chau — Sui-
fu — Kia-ting-fii — Prepare for journey — Despatch coolies to
Kia-kiang— Omei-hsien — Wan-nien-tze — Bronze elephant and
Buddha— Peculiar tea — Tibetan worshipper — The summit of
Mount Omei — Bronze Temple — Pagoda — Tremendous precipice
— Tigers on the mountain — Suicides — View of the Snowy

CONTENTS

Mountains — Niiniber of temples antl priests on the mountain
— Kia-kiang — Arrival at Ya-chow— Bamboo rafts on Ya lUver
— Y'^ung-chin.cj-hsien — Tai-hsiang-ling-kwan Pass — Ching-chi-
hsien — Bad road — Arrival at Ta-tsien-lu . . . 168

CHAPTER XIII

TA-TSIEN-LU

Excursion to the south-east — Camp at an altitude of 12,500 feet —
Ehododendron logs — Crossojitilon — Snow and frost — Search
for road— Lake discovered — Salamanders- Mr. Krieheldorfi'
goes to Mou-pin — Execiition of Tibetans — Oppression of lamas
— Message from Tibetan king — Try to find plateau to the
north — Larvoe and pupa of Parnassius Imperator — Departure
for neighboiirhood of Mo-si-mien — Musk deer — Local king's
palace — Ponies and cattle — Meet Tibetan king — King's farm —
Hot springs— Pheasants and Itliaginis — Mo-si-mien Pass — Ya-
chow-kun — Medicine collectors— Camping-ground chosen — Log
hut — Lake discovered — Trip to Ta-tsien-lu — Snow-storm— Fine
trees to the southward — Pu-tzu-fong — Black cm-rants and small
fruits — Natives excited against foreigner — Collectors at Ni-tou —
Eeturu to Ta-tsien-lu — Petition against my return south —
Arrival of caravan from Shi-ga-tze — Pere Jeridot — Ai'rival of
Prince Henri of Orleans — His collections — Paces — Disturbance
in city — Robbery — Breeding Crossojitilon — Lojihophorus
L'huysii — Tragopan — Parrots — Eagles .... 177

CHAPTER XIV

MOUNT OMEI

Prepare to leave Ta-tsien-lu — Take charge of Pi'ince Henri's collec-
tion— Collectors left behind — Departure — Village destroyed by
landslip — Lu-ting-chiao — ^Sick woman — Kew road — Pass Chih-
pan-kow, Fung-ya-ping and San-yan-kwan — Ai-rive at Yo-so-po
— Tai-hsiang-ling-kwan Pass — Huang-ni-po — Shih-chia-chiao —
Y''a-chow-fu — Orders to travel by Hung-ya-hsien — Heavy raia —
Robbery at Tsi-ho-kia — Hung-ya-hsien — Landlord in trouble —
Kia-kiang — Kia-ting-fu — Depart for Omei-shan — AVan-nien-ssu
— Summit of Mount Omei — Glory of Buddha — Temples easily
destroyed by fire — Quantity of bronze on mountain — Iron
suspension bridges ...... 206

CONTENTS XV

CHAPTER XV

OMKl-SHAN TO SHANGHAI AND HOME

Deimrtiu-e from Oinei-shan— Find Mr. Kricheldorlf at Kia-tinj,'—
His difficiilties at Mou-pin — Packing up — Bad conduct of col-
lectors— Flood of Min river — Dangerous position of boat — Expe-
dition to Mantzu caves— New species of bat — Ai-rival of collec-
tors— Live stock — Leave Kia-ting-fu — Lolo raiders — Leave Sui-
fu — Dangerousstateofriver—Ba-sa-tou— Chung-king— Delayed
by state of river— Murders of native converts — Quei-chau collec-
tor— Desertion of pilot — Sampan stove in at Hu-lin — Mortality
among Crossoptilon — Delay at Wu-shan-hsien — Rapid at Niu-
kan-tan — Quick travelling — Arrival at Ichang— Sale of boat —
Shanghai— The collection of Prince Henri — Leave for South-
ampton . . . . ... . • 221

APPENDICES

I. List of Birds collected in China bj' Mr. A. E. Pratt . . 235

11. List of the Species of Reptiles and Fishes collected by Mr.
A. E. Pratt on the Upper Yang-tze-kiang and in the province
Sze-chuen, with description of the New Species. By Albert
Giinther, M.A., :\LD., Ph.D., F.R.S. . . . . 23B

III. List of Lepidoptera collected by the Author at Kiu-kiang.
Extracts from a Paper by J. H. Leech, Esq., B.A., F.L.S.,
&c., ' Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.,' March 1889 . . . 251

New Species and Varieties of Lepidoptera collected
by the Author m Western and Central China, described and
named by J. H. Leech, Esi^., B.A., F.L.S., &c., in the ' Entomo-
logist,' 1890 and 1891 ...... 266

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Author in Chixesk Travelling Dress . . . Frontispiece

Pontoon, Ichang to face p. 8

Papilio Elwesi „ 10

ichang, showing british consulate „ 26

Lu-kan Gorge „ 36

Boat ready for the Voyage „ 68

The Sin-tan Eapid. Eiver Low „ 76

Scene in the "Wu-shan Gorge „ 78

Boat in a Rapid, showing Bow Sweep ready for Use „ 94

Scene on Min River, near Kia-ting-fu .... „ 104

Mission House, Ta-tien-chih, at the foot of Mount Wa „ 114

Wa-ssu-kou Gorge „ 132

Ta-tsien-lu from the South ...... „ 134

Street leading to South Gate, Ta-tsien-lu ... „ 138

Tibetan Jewelry, etc „ 142

Camp North of Ta-tsien-lu. Tibetan Tent ... „ 146

Bronze Pagoda and Ruins of Bronze Temple, Summit

OF Mount Omei „ 170

Rhododendrons. Altitude, 12,000 feet .... „ 182

xviii ILLUSTBATIONS

View from Mo-si-mien Pass, looking West . . to face 2)- 196

Camp on Site of Log Hut ,. 188

Log Hut on June 5, 1890 ,,192

Part OF Shi-ga-tze Caravan Encamped outside Lamassery „ 196

Haunts of the Lophophorus L'huysii and Crossoptiion

TiBETANUii. Altitude of Camera, 13,520 feet , „ 202

View from Site of Log Hut, looking North . . „ 206

Summit and upper part of Precipice, Mount Omei . ,, 216

Image of Tiger, near the Summit of Mount Omei . „ 220

TcHONG-TSAO {Sph-ERIA siNEysis) 2'izge 234

Lophophorus L'huysji „ 237

CROSSOPTILON TlBETANUM „ 237

Plate I. ........ . to face j}- ^4:0

„ II 246

„ III 248

„ IV ,. 250

MAP OF China. — Province of Sze-chuen, showing

Eoutes taken in 1889-1890 at the oui

TO THE SNOWS OF TIBET
THEOUGH CHINA

CHAPTEE I

THE YANG-TZE AS FAR AS ICHAXG

Object of journey — Departure from England — Arrival at Shanghai — Kiu-
kiang — ' Little Orphan ' — Lu-shan Hills — Plowers — Temples — Rain-
fall— New snake— Collector bitten — Silver woi'k — Hankow — Passport
obtainetl — Leave for Ichang — Sunday Island — House rented — Cess-
pool—House-boat hired — San-yu-tung — Joss-house — New papilio —
Ferns and plants — Fishermen — Birds and monkeys — "Wild goats-
Flying squirrel — Chinese moimtaineers — General aspect of glen —
Return to Ichang.

So little of this great world of ours is new to the ex-
plorer or the naturalist, that it becomes more difficult
year by year to find unworked fields. Choice is there-
fore mainly confined to those which have hitherto been
only superficially examined. The countries in which
these occur are not easy for a European to work in,
either from the hostility of the natives, or difiiculty of
travel and the transport of collections. After consider-
able thought I decided to proceed to China and ascend

B

2 KIU-KIANG

the Yang-tze-kiang, with the intention of penetrating
Tibet from its eastern boundary. With this object in
view I left England on February 7, 1887, in the
s.s. Palinurus, bound for Shanghai, with my wife and
family, who I intended should accompany me as far as
Ichang, the last treaty port on the river. Nothing of
any special interest occurred during the voyage, and as
it has been frequently described, and is now so often
taken by the ordinary globe-trotter, it will receive no
notice in this work.

I arrived on April 2, and after a stay of a week,
left in one of the splendid river steamers for Kiu-kiang
on my way to Ichang, which place I purposed to make
my head-quarters.

These boats are most luxuriously furnished, and the
comfort of passengers is carefully provided for in every
way. At Kiu-kiang my real work commenced. This
town is situated on the right bank of the river, and
just above the Poyang Lake. It is built as high as
possible above the ordinary level of the river, but as
violent floods occur during the summer, it suffers, like
all the other towns on the flat banks of the river, from
inundations, floods being caused by the melting of the
snow on the mountains among which the river takes
its rise.

Just before reaching Kiu-kiang one of the most

LU-SHAN HILLS 3

remarkable objects in the lower part of the river was
passed — a huge isolated rock surmounted by a joss-
house, which was embowered in gracefully growing
vegetation consisting principally of bamboo. This rock
goes by the name of ' The Little Orphan,' and it is
worthy of note that pelicans are first met with here.

There beinsj no hotel at Kiu-kiancf, I was most
hospitably entertained by Dr. Underwood till I could
get away to the hilly country about nine miles to the
south of the town, where I might expect to commence
coUectino-, Here I li'ot accommodation throufjh the
kindness of the Rev. John Hykes of the American
Central China Mission. This gentleman most generously
placed his bungalow at my disposal for the whole of
the summer season. It was most delightfully situated
in a gorge, with a beautiful view of the river and valley
below. There were three rooms, with the usual
verandah in front, and a detached cook-house. At the
back was a precipitous hill covered with trees, scrub,
and undergrowth. Numerous watercourses ran down,
and after heavy rain the noise from the waterfalls was
almost deafening.

These ranges are called the Lu-shan Hills, and the
road from Kiu-kiang lies at first through a fertile valley
in which rice is largely cultivated. About six miles
out the ascent commences, and small streams passing

B 2

4 NEW SNAKE

through rocky ravines clothed with underwood are seen.
Further up the vegetation increases in size, and consists
on the nortliern slopes principally of coniferous plants
and evergreens. On the southern side firs appeared to be
more numerous than on the northern. Lilies of several
species were common here. A few orchids were seen,
all being terrestrial, and one species very fragrant.
The wistaria grew luxuriantly, and its masses of lilac
bloom formed hi places a magnificent spectacle. White
and yellow gardenias also grew wild in profusion. In
these hills are several temples, and the trees around
them are not permitted to be destroyed. This appears
to be a universal custom throughout China. No great
altitude is attained, but during the hot season they are
much frequented by the Europeans from Kiu-kiang as
a sanatorium, the natural pools being greatly appre-
ciated for bathing purposes. There is a tremendous
rainfall here during the months of May and June, but
having no suitable instruments I was unable to deter-
mine it exactly.

Here I remained till August 4, all my time being
fully occupied in collecting Lepidoptera and Coleoptera.
Of the latter I amassed an enormous collection, among
which were many new species, and of the former many
were closely allied to the Japanese forms. I also made
a collection of reptilia, among which was a fine new

COLLECTOR BITTEN 5

species of crotaliiie snake {TTalys acutus). This was
found at Wu-suili, about tliree days' journey from the
bungalow, which place has now attained an unen-
viable notoriety for anti-European riots. Having
completed my series of them, I refused to purchase
another specimen from a Chinese collector, and he
thereupon threw it among my children, who were in the
verandah, witli the charitable intention that one of them
might be bitten. I am happy to say that his design
was frustrated, as the poisonous reptile was promptly
killed before it had time to do any harm. While here,
one of my collectors was bitten on the thumb by a
small red and black snake. His arm swelled very
much, and on sending him to Kiu-kiang Dr. Under-
wood found it necessar}^ to amputate his thumb. He
resumed his work as soon as he was able, but one day
had the misfortune to hit the still unhealed wound
against a branch. This caused it to bleed so much
that he witli difficultv reached the l^uno-alow, where he
nearly fainted, and he had to be sent down a second
time, in a chair, to Kiu-kiang for treatment.

In addition to formini^ these collections I had a
large number of the larvae and pupas of Lepidoptera
under observation, and found that procuring suitable
food for the former occupied a good deal of time.

Xear this place is a celebrated manufactory of china,

0^

6 HANKOW

and it is here that all the Imperial ware is manufactured.
It is hardly necessary to say anything about the town
of Kiu-kiang, as it is a place comparatively well known
to Europeans. The inhabitants are celebrated for their
skill as silversmiths, and turn out much beautiful work
which is highly prized by Europeans. During my stay
I experienced much kindness at the hands of Mr. Wavell
of the Imperial Chinese Customs.

On August 4 I left for Hankow and arrived on the
6th. The scenery ascending the river is flat and un-
interesting, and nothing noteworthy was seen. Hankow
is the great centre of the tea trade, and possesses the
finest bund in China. As usual, however, as in most
other towns on the Yang-tze, during floods the streets
and bund are under water, and communication has to
be made from house to house by sampans. I here
obtained from H.M. Consul the necessary passport for
the provinces of Hu-peh and Sze-chuen.

A delay of three days was caused by the steamers
not running in connection with each other, and during
this time Mr. and Mrs. Armour were most kind to
Mrs. Pratt, my children, and myself. Had it not been
for their hospitality we should have experienced great
inconvenience from the mosquitoes and the heat. The
s.s. Kiang-tung took us to Ichang, where we arri^-ed
on August 14. The river being now high, no difliculty

SUNDAY ISLAND 7

was experienced in getting by Sunday Island, the
channel past which is, during the winter and spring,
when the river is at its lowest, always a cause of delay
to the steamers. They always send a boat ahead to
sound on the way up, and in spite of all precautions
frequently get aground. The bed of the river here is
very wide, and consequently shallow, and each year
when the water falls low it cuts a new channel for
itself. No permanent survey is therefore of any use,
and the fairway is usually buoyed afresh as it shifts.
This place is the most serious obstacle to navigation
on the river below Icliang, and during winter, only
steamers of the shallowest draught ever attempt the
passage. This town is situated on the left bank of
the Yang-tze, and 1,110 miles from its mouth. It is
the last treaty port, and I considered that it would form
a base for my work for at least a year. The first dif-
ficulty was to find a house for my wife and family, and
this was by no means an easy task. It was, of course,
impossible to live in the city, and for some time it ap-
peared to be equally impossible to find any habitation
near the European settlement. The Consul, however,
most kindly lodged us for about a fortnight, at the
expiration of which I was fortunate enough to be able
to rent what was called a Chinese house. It really was
nothing but an empty barn, with mud walls and a roof

8 SAN-YU-TUNa GLEN

of timber and tiles. There was neither ceiling nor par-
titions, and the floor was of earth. Close to the side
was a large cesspool that was replenished daily from
the city, and in the evening its contents were used to
fertilise a large garden opposite. The continual stirring
of its contents made us quite aw^are of its fragrance,
and though none of us suffered in consequence, my
C'hinese boy got typhoid fever, from which I am glad
to sa}^ he eventually recovered.

We were not, luckily, obliged to stop in the house
just mentioned during the whole of our stay in Ichang,
for in September I hired a house-boat with six compart-
ments, in which we embarked for the San-yu-tung Glen,
which is situated on the left bank of the river, and just
at the mouth of the Ichang Gorge. I fully determined
to live in the boat as long as the weather would permit,
and, leaving Ichang on the 10th, we arrived at our
destination the same day. The boat was much more
comfortable than the house in every way, and my in-
tention was to make the most of the remainder of the
season in collecting insects. I brought my Chinese
boy up in the hope that the change would assist his
recovery, and on arrival sent him up to a joss-house.
He only was permitted to stay for five days, when
his mother arrived and wished to make some of
her 'joss pigeon' over him, and removed him for the

VNIVERS/T V

or

NEW PAPILIO 9

purpose. He had, liovvever, iniicli Ijenefited by the
journey, and was nearly well Avlien he left. The joss-
house just mentioned is formed of a natural cave of
great beauty and considerable size, the entrance to
which is on the face of a precipice. Here I found
growing in great luxuriance a variety of primula, the
leaves of which are scented, and the flowers, which are
borne singly, mauve. This grows in large masses and
forms a most conspicuous object. The joss-house was
certainly very damp inside, but w^as not considered to
be unliealthy, and the chief priest has lived there for
forty-five years, showing that it has not affected his
health. It possesses a single bell of considerable size,
and the sound of its vibration and echo in the cave has
a very weird effect.

We lived entirely in the boat, making daily excur-
sions into the glen and collecting Lepidoptera and
Coleoptera, of which I found a fair number. Among
the more striking plants is the hohenia, which grows
in great profusion over the rocks and bears very pretty
bunches of waxy pink flowers. Lilies abound, and
their flowers are eagerly sought for by the commoner
papilios. Among them, however, I was fortunate enough
to capture a magnificent new species, which has since
been named Papilio Elwesi. Clematis and various
species of fern abound, and in the more shady places a

10 FISHERMEN

beautiful variety of begonia is found, wliicli lias white
flowers with yellow centres. This grows principally
in a bifurcation of the glen, called by the Europeans
the Goat Glen. Maidenhair fern grows luxuriantly in
the soft sandstone, and the Chinese cut large slabs, some
of considerable size and weight, with the ferns attached,
for sale to the Europeans at Ichang, from whence they
find their way to the ports all down the river. Varieties
of Daphne and Herb Paris are also found, and, on the
hills surrounding, two species of persimmons (Diospyros
virginiana and D. kaki) are grown in large quantities
and exported. The w^hole place, and especially the
Goat Glen, is very rich in vegetation, and Dr. A. Henry,
of the Imperial Maritime Customs, a celebrated botanist,
has found many new species here.

A stream of remarkably clear water having many
tributary branches runs into the river from the valley,
and fishermen may be seen using the casting-net with
great skill near the mouth. Further up, where the
water is shallower, they capture fish by the method
known in this country as ' tickling.' Water ouzels are
common, and high up the stream among the precipices
I saw a large species of grey kingfisher which nests in
holes in the clifis. It is, however, by no means common,
and I failed to procure a specimen. A few monkeys
are to be seen, but they appeared to be very shy.

PAPILIO ELWESl.

0« THE

UNIVERSITY

GOAT GLEN 11

The Goat Glen mentioned before is a brancli of tlie
San-yu-tung, and is so called from its being inhabited
by a species of wild goat. Owing to the wildness and
precipitous nature of the locality, it seems to be par-
ticularly adapted to their habits.

Picture to yourself a deep valley, with the entrance
very narrow and steep, widening out here and there
into broad cup-shaped expansions almost surrounded
by unscalable precipices, and here and there huge
piles of enormous boulders lying in the greatest con-
fusion, a small stream of water runniu"- through
the centre fed by several rivulets, plants of almost
innumerable species, many being of great beauty,
growing in every possible place, and some idea may
be formed of this exquisite gorge » ,

It may be imagined that in such a place it is not
easy to get a shot at the goats, particularly as they con-
ceal themselves in the luxuriant veo^etationfor the a'reater
part of the day. The most practicable way is for the
sportsman to gain the summit of the cliff in such a place
as to command a view of the valley in one of its wider
parts, taking care to get there as quietly as possible.

The beaters also ascend, but on the opposite side,
and hurl huge stones over the precipice. These descend
by leaps of hundreds of feet into the valley beneath,
and startle the goats from their concealment, when they

12 CHINESE MOUNTAINEERS

invariably make for tlie higher ground, and being then
more exposed, frequently offer a good shot. I am
doubtful as to the species of these goats, but a fine
living adult specimen has been obtained, and is now, I
believe, in the possession of Pere Heurde, in his garden
at Sicawei.

A beautiful flying squirrel is also found here. One
was obtained alive by Percy Montgomery, Esq., of the
Imperial Maritime Customs, and sent by him to the
gardens of the Eoyal Zoological Society, where it is still
living.

The hill Chinese are exceedingly good mountaineers,
and it is most alarming to see them on the face of a
cliff nearly perpendicular, finding foothold on ledges
only a few inches wide, with a sheer drop of perhaps
hundreds of feet beneath them. If a break occurs in
the ledge, and there should happen to be any vegetation
over their heads, they will not hesitate to seize it with
their hands and swing themselves over the gap. It is a
thing to be seen before one can thoroughly comprehend
it, and I heard, without much surprise, that loss of life
by accident was not unfrequent among them.

The whole aspect of these gorges is beautiful in
the extreme. Lofty precipices, clear limpid streams,
luxuriant vegetation, and charming flowers combine to
make it one of the most delightful spots I have ever

BETUBN TO ICHANG liJ

visited, aiul it was also the furthest point from civilisa-
tion I had as yet reached on this journey. The increas-
ing cold, however, and the scarcity of specimens for
collection, warned me of the advanced season, and in
the beginning of October I reluctantly decided to return
to Ichang.

14

CHAPTER II

ICHANG

Packing collections — Packing-cases — Curiosities — Trade of Ichang—
Imports — Comnmnication with Hankow — Missions and missionaries
— Festival of New Year — Beggars, their misery and harsh treatment
— Procession to pray for rain — Joss-house to bring luck — Golden
pheasants — Fish of the Yang-tze — Eiver porpoise — Otters for fishing
— Cemetery — The Dome — Floating lamps.

On my return to Ichang I at once set about putting
my collections in order, with the view of sending them
home at the earliest opportunity for classification.
This, of course, took considerable time, not in the
arranging and the packing alone, but in seeing that in
the first place the tin linings of the cases were perfectly
air-tight. Many of them were made in Shanghai, and
I always tested them by filling with water, when the
slightest fault could be detected. Having been thus
tried, they were emptied and thoroughly dried. The
upper edges of the tin were flanged inwards, and then
when the case was carefully packed a sheet of tin was
laid on the flanges and carefully soldered down, taking
especial care that the corners were particularly ex-
amined, as this was found to be the most diflicult part

CUBIOSITIES 16

in which to make a perfectly tight join. The Chinese
are excellent workmen, and could do all this work very-
well indeed when they liked, but I found that they
required continual watching, otherwise they were apt
to scamp the work. They could not understand, either,
the value I set on my collections, and therefore did not
see the necessity for all the care I insisted upon having
bestowed on them.

Many objects of great curiosity are found in Ichang,
and are much valued by the Chinese as well as by the
Europeans. Among them may be mentioned a very
hard and dense black stone, in which iron pyrites occurs
in lumps of irregular sizes and shapes. These stones
are beautifully decorated in relief with human figures,
animals, or plants, the pyrites being most cleverly
brought in as eyes, ornaments, fruits, or flowers. The
largest that I saw might be about thirty inches by
twenty-four, and they are executed in many smaller
sizes. The stone itself resembles compact lava, but I
am unable to say what it is.

Another curiosity is what is called the pagoda stone,
and is a species of belemnite with concave sections.
They are nearly always brought in as sections cut in
the natural block of stone in which they occur. This
stone being of a dark colour and the fossil that is em-
bedded in it white, or nearly so, and sometimes as

16 TRADE OF ICHANG

much as thirty inches in length, they have when per-
fect and poHshed a very handsome appearance. Very
powerful bows may be purchased here, and I brought
home two, as well as some arrows. They are carried
by some of the Chinese soldiery in the district, who are
very well skilled in their use.

As the weather was now much cooler than when I
first arrived, I found it more pleasant to explore the
city, which is walled, and with, as usual, very narrow
streets. It is comparatively clean to some Chinese
towns I have been in, and contains about 70,000 in-
habitants.

There is a large guild (called the Sze-chuen guild) on
the bank of the river, and this is of considerable import-
ance to the town. It is, of course, entirely for the
up-river trade, and as the character of the river here
changes completely (the banks instead of being flat
become precipitous, for the mountainous region is
nearly now reached), the navigation becomes much more
difl[icult. The Hankow boatmen, indeed, refuse to pro-
ceed further, and if the same boat is to continue to
ascend she must have another crew. The greater part
of the population is engaged in the transport of goods
in one way or another, there being a very large export
as well as import trade. Of the exports, the principal
are medicines brought down from Sze-chuen and Tibet ;

IMPORTS 17

these consist laro-ely of rhubarb, of which a great
quantity goes to Europe, and the remainder of elk
horns, dried centipedes, pey-mou, and Tclwng-Tsiio.
All these latter are used exclusively by the Chinese,
and the last-named is a most curious plant, growing at
a great elevation in the eastern part of Tibet. It has a
single spathe-shaped leaf about three inches long, and
the root bears the most extraordinary resemblance to a
caterpillar, all the segments, legs, eyes, &c. being faith-
fully represented.

Large quantities of raw silk also pass through on
the wa}- to Shanghai, and a considerable quantity of
musk.

There is a large import trade of Manchester goods^
cotton, long-cloth, figured prints, and velveteen. These
arrive in bulky bales, and are here examined by the
"Custom House officials. They are then made up in
smaller packages more suitable for the up-country
transport. Quicksilver is also imported in heavy iron
bottles for use in the silver mines of Yunnan. There
is a fine new China merchants' ' go-down ' where all
these articles may be seen.

The time of arrival of a steamer from Hankow is, in
the winter and spring, when the river is low, very un-
certain, the navigation being difficult owing to the
channels constantly changing, more particularly at

c

18 MISSIONABIES

Sunday Island, about halfway between the two places.
In the summer and autumn there is plenty of water.
The arrival of a steamer is always an exciting event to
the Europeans.

There is only one Protestant mission here — that of
the Church of Scotland — and it is in charge of a most
zealous missionary, the Eev. G. Cockburn, who is the
oldest European inhabitant and a first-rate Chinese
scholar. He is greatly assisted in his many and varied
duties by his wife, who was the first European lady to
ascend the river beyond Hankow.

They reside in a small bungalow, which is made a
frequent house of call by Protestant missionaries of all
denominations and travellers passing up and down the
river, who have all to be thankful for the hospitality of
these kind-hearted people.

The Eoman Catholics have also a mission, presided
over by Bishop Benjamin, whose predecessor died of
cholera shortly after my arrival. This disease works
great havoc at certain seasons among the natives. The
Eev. Father kindly gave me useful letters of introduc-
tion to the missionaries further west. He has recently
erected a fine building facing the river, into which the
Franciscan Fathers have been transferred, their old
mission house being now inhabited by the Sisters who
have lately arrived. While the new building was in

CHINESE NEW YEAR 19

course of construction, he suffered a severe loss in the
almost total destruction by fire of an innuense mass of
timber which was to be used for it. On the alarm being
given all the Europeans turned out to his assistance,
but, owing to the want of any efficient fire-engine, were
unable to be of much use. After a considerable time
a mandarin appeared with several European portable
hand fire-engines, but the small jets of water thrown by
them were of no avail to extinguish the now fiercely
burning pile.

On proceeding to the scene of the conflagration, I w^as
somewhat surprised to find a Chinaman at a consider-
able distance from it diligently throw^ing water upon
the reflection of the flames on the eaves of his house.
Finding it impossible to satisfy him that his house
was not on fire, I left him to his unprofitable labour.

In 1888 the Chinese new year occurred about the
middle of February, and this is the most important
festival in the year. During the ceremonies all work
is suspended, and the whole population give themselves
up to festivity and the payment of new year calls. All
monetary settlements are concluded, and should a Chinese
find himself unable to meet his liabilities, he frequently
prefers death by his own hand to the dishonour. At this
season it is the custom to send a servant to paste the
card of the intending visitor upon the doors of all his

c '2

20 BEGGARS

acquaintances, and the effect of the doors sometmies
ahnost covered with visiting cards of various colours is
rather curious. I do not know whether this custom is
general.

When the river is low, in the winter and early spring,
numbers of beggars may be seen inhabiting the shallow
caves scooped out by the action of the water on the
bank, which is composed of conglomerate.

Here they exist — for it can hardly be called living
— in a most miserable state, skinning and cooking for
food cats, dogs, or anything that they can la}^ their hands
upon, totally indifferent as to whether they have caught
and killed them or whether they have died a natural
death, many lying upon small heaps of damp straw
or reeds, and all in such a state of disease, dirt, and
destitution as would be hardh' credited. When in the
town the beggars all carry sticks to protect themselves
from the dogs, who instinctively seem to know and in-
variabty attack them on leaving a house where they
have been begging. These beggars are very persistent,
but are sometimes cruelly treated by their richer
brethren. A case came to my knowledge where a rich
Chinese caused a quantity of boiling water mixed with
wood ashes to be thrown over the back of one who
had seated himself on his doorstep and refused to leave.
The unfortunate man, who was terribly injured, was

mOCESSION FOR BAIN 21

taken to the Eev. G. Cockbuni's hospital for treatment,
where his wounds were dressed, but they were so severe
that he died in a few days. No one was punished for
this, the mandarin dechning to take any action in the
case as the injured man's friends had no money and,
therefore, he could not squeeze them.

In February the ground was covered with snow,
the river very low, and looking as black as ink. It was
difficult to realise that in August the heat had been so
intense.

Various kinds of vegetables are grown in the vicinity
of the town, also cotton ; and women may be seen
spinning and weaving the latter into yarn and cloth
while sitting outside the doors of their houses.

In times of unusual drought long processions headed
by a magistrate may be seen. The men composing
them are decorated with wreaths of small green branches
of trees intermingled with lotus leaves, and many carry
gongs or brass cymbals, as considerable noise seems to
be considered necessary to attract the deity's attention.
Thus they perambulate the town and the droughty fields
until the rain comes, which is then attributed to their
efforts or entreaties.

On the opposite side of the river to the English
settlement there is a conspicuous pyramidal liill. For
some reason or another the natives took it into their

22 GOLDEN PHEASANTS

heads that this would bring luck to the foreigners, and
they therefore, at considerable expense, built a joss-
house on a hill of nearly as great an altitude, situated
about a mile from the town at the back of the settle-
ment (taking care that the top of the joss-house should
be higher than the top of the hill on the other side of
the river), in order to transfer the good luck to their
city. From this joss-house a beautiful view of the city,
settlement, and surrounding country is obtained.

Numbers of Golden Pheasants can be purchased in
the autumn. Tliev are brouo-ht to market in cag-es
much too small for them, and in consequence their
plumage is greatly damaged. As I wished to keep
some till they had moulted and attained their full
beauty, I had an aviary built, into which, when com-
pleted, I turned about fifteen couple, which I had
bought at the cost of about 400 cash, or say two shil-
lings, the pair. A heavy fall of snow unfortunately
broke the roof in and many escaped, the remainder
being killed by stoats, which are very numerous and
exceedingly audacious. No place appeared safe from
them, for they would steal chickens frequently from the
house, and even if my boat was alongside the bank with
the ofano'board out, would come on board to forage.

A large species of sturgeon, Psephurus gladius, may
be seen exposed for sale in sections in the city, the flesh

FISH 23

miicli resembling beef in appearance. These fish some-
times attain a weight of over 2,000 lbs., and are captured
in nets. The meat is, however, coarse and unpalatable
to Europeans. Wlien on an expedition down the river
I once had an oj^portunity of purchasing a living spe-
cimen ; but though I was only about eighty miles from
the town, the fisherman refused to take my Ichang
notes, which was the only form of money I had with
me ; consequently this chance of securing a large
specimen to send home was lost.

An excellent fish for food, and much appreciated by
the Europeans, is the mandarin fish. It is small and
averages about a pound, rarely reaching more than
four, in weight. Shaped somewhat like a bream, it is
of a beautiful light silvery brown colour on the back
and silvery white underneath. It is fairly common, and
is captured both by nets and lines. In the river is
also found a large species of carp, which forms a con-
siderable article of diet among the natives ; it attains a
weight of 25 lbs. The whole river is teeming with
fish of many other sorts, wdiicli are much fished for by
the natives, who are expert anglers, in various ways.

The abundance of fish is so great that the natives
are at certain times in the habit of setting long lines
wdtli many hooks attached to short lengths at small in-
tervals. These are shot across the stream without any

24' OTTER VILLAGE

bait whatever, and with a bamboo buoy, in which there
is a bell, at the further end. The fish coming down the
stream are caught in quantities (hooked foul, of course),
and if one of special size is hooked, its struggles set the
bell in the buoy ringing, and the boatmen proceed out
to secure it. Sometimes they have the misfortune to
lose the whole line through the hooking of a fresh-water
cetacean which inhabits the river, and which is much
too strong for such gear as they use.

This river porpoise grows to a weight of about 1,000
lbs., so that it was useless to think of trying to send a full-
grown specimen home. After some little trouble I pro-
cured one of about 150 lbs., and even then had great
difficulty in finding a vessel large enough to contain it.
At last I o'ot a wine cask from the Franciscan Brothers,
and half filling it with the native spirit called samsliew,
distilled from Indian corn, placed him in it with my
other collection of fishes, then heading the cask up and
filling with spirits, it was consigned home, and, I am
glad to say, reached there safely.

Situated on the opposite bank of the river to the
town is a small village, known to the Europeans as the
' Otter Village,' from the fact that the natives there make
use of otters for fishing. These otters may be seen any
day tied up in the bows of the sampans, and appear to
be quite tame.

THE DOME 26

On the other side of the river, at the village of
Annan-miao, the Europeans have a small cenieter}-,
Miiere they have great difficulty in preventing the
Chinese from desecrating the graves. During my stay
I was present at the funeral of a young missionary who
had died of dysentery at Sha-shih.

An interesting trip may be made from Icliang to a
hill knoMni to Europeans as ' The Dome.' It is situated
some little distance inland on the right bank of the
river below the town, from which it may be seen on
clear days, the top of the hill having a dome-like ap-
pearance, whence its name. It is approached by a very
picturesque valley, which is called the Monastery
VaUey, in which there is a temple and cave, called
LunCT-wounof-tuno;, on the side of a hill. In the cave is
a lake which is held in great veneration by the Chinese,
and which has no visible inlet or outlet. Europeans
are not allowed to thoroughly explore it, and it is pro-
bable that it is some enlargement of a subterranean
river, which are not uncommon in the district.

In the month of September one is often surprised
to see thousands of tiny lighted lamps floating down on
the surface of the river. They sometimes extend for
miles, and are started at some little distance above the
Chinese city. They are offerings to the deity for the
souls of those who have lost their lives by droMming in

26 FLOATING LAMPS

the river, and consist simply of a cup with a little oil,
into which a wick extends. The wicks are formed of
the pith of a rush which is found higher up the river,
the trade in which is considerable and the mode of
transport curious. Several boats being lashed together,
huge stacks of the pith, packed in bales, are built upon
them until the structure is the size of a good large
house. They are then floated down the stream, and the
wonder of a stranger on first seeing such a floating pile
is exercised as to what it can possibly be.

The illustration is taken from a photograph of
Icliang when the river was low. The flagstaff* shows
the position of the British Consulate, to the left is the
Chinese city, and in front are to be seen the caves
mentioned in this chapter, in which the beggars make
their dwelling.

^ I

■!f;fif !

I I

I

27

CHAPTEE III

EXPEDITIONS TO CHANG-YANG AND SIN-TAN RAI'ID

Want of forest near river — Chang-yang — Journey to — Description of
Country — Pigs and leopards — Jungle — Reeves' pheasant — Eetiurn to
Icliang — Enormous creepers — Soap trees — Icliang Gorge — Pin-san-pa
— Mu-tan Eapid — Ta-tmig Rapid — Curiously worn rocks — Crews of
large jiuiks — -Lu-kan Gorge — Shale — Sin-tan Rapid — Me-tan Gorge —
Insults at Sin-tan — Chinese monopoly of steam navigation — Steps up
precipices — Nan-too — ' Needle of Heaven ' — Arrival at Ichang.

The chief difficulty that presents itself in China to the
entomoloi^ist is the lack of accessible virmn forest, and
the want of reliable information as to where the rarer,
or perhaps as yet undiscovered species, may be expected
to be found. The rivers appear to be the natural high-
roads of the natives, and as the banks are generally
thickly populated, the forest has long ago disappeared.
Marco Polo spoke of the river Yang-tze as being thickly
wooded in places where a tree is not now to be seen for
miles, and at the present day there are no trees worth
felling within any distance of a stream that might be
utilised to float the logs to a market.

After many inquiries, I heard from a native botani-
cal collector in the employ of Dr. Henry that a district

28 BO AD TO CHANG-YANG

such as I was in search of might be foil i id at three
days' journey south of Ichang, in the district of Chang-
yang, where the forest was of considerable extent, and
where also he had a house. I therefore determined to
make an expedition to see if the country l^ore out his
description, and accordingly set out on the morning of
October 7, 1887, with three coolies and a cook, who
also acted as interpreter. My journey was made partly
on foot and partly in a chair. After crossing the river
and traversing the flat country on the banks I entered
a valley, and found my first sleeping station on a small
hill called Shih-te-yah, twenty miles from the start.
Here I found the country beginning to get interesting
to a naturalist. On starting the next morning I found
the road at first descended slightly, and now the pine
trees appeared growing in clumps in a soil of a rufous-
brown colour. These were the first coniferous trees
met with, and I now entered a valley of great l3eauty,
which was studded with precipitous knolls crowned
with a few firs and thick undergrowth. This vallev
trends to the westward for seven miles, and one passes
through shady copses of graceful bamboo, some being
nearly a mile long. As I proceeded the vegetation
became much more varied, and patches of cultivated
ground were met with. It had every appearance of
being rich in entomological species, and I determined to

THE BABBIER 29

make a station here at the proper season the following
year for the purpose of collectino-. After proceeding
for about seven miles further I came to some paper
mills, where the material manufactured is bamboo.
The buildings, or rather huts, were wretched in the ex-
treme, but as there was no choice of better, I decided to
stop the night. Starting at 7.30 a.m. the next day, the
first range of hills was soon met with. The road turned
sharply to the left and led nearly due south, the ascent
being very steep in some places ; so much so, indeed,
that in many places flights of steps had been cut.

I passed many beautiful gorges and valleys, and hav-
ing travelled about fifteen miles over a very up-and-down
road, reached a small Chinese village of about 250 huts,
but which contained a new native inn, where I took
up my quarters, and found it, for a wonder, to be very
clean. The highest altitude reached during the day
was nearly 3,000 feet, and the village was situated in a
valley.

The next morning, after journeying for an hour
along the ordinary road, I arrived at the foot of a high
range, which I called afterwards the ' barrier.' I here
determined to leave the main road and make the ascent ;
but as it was exceedingly steep and precipitous, and the
mountain foot-trail very rough and winding, it was
necessarv to i>"et additional assistance in carryino- the

1 o JO

80 THE PEY-DZA

loads, the Ichang coolies being quite incapable of getting
them up ; and luckily I was able to engage some of the
mountaineers, who have a totally different way of carry-
ing from the natives of the plains. Tlie}-^ have a deep
conical basket, flattened on the side which is next their
back, andspringuig round in a bold semicircle. At the
top of the flat side are two large beckets through which
the arms are passed. This is called a pey-dza, and after
it has been filled to the brim they pile up articles on the
top till they reach high above their heads when in the
carrying position, and lash them securely down. They
all carry sticks, and use them when resting to support
their loads, one end being placed on the ground and the
other under the bottom of the pey-dza.

The ascent took about two hours and a half, and
there was only one hut on the path up. Here, the owner
beino" luckily at home, we were able to get some water
and rest awhile. From this point the track trends to
the west and is more level, and at about midday I
arrived at two huts. The aneroid here showed that the
altitude reached was 4,200 feet. The country was
park-like, with detached clumps of timber, and watered
by several small streams. Across a valley I could see a
hio-h range thickly wooded, and felt confident that this
must be the virgin forest that Dr. Henry's collector had
informed me of. By dint of hard work I managed to

LEOPARDS 81

reach the edge of the forest at 5 p.m., and soon found tlie
house that he told nie he had tliere (ahitude 4,700 feet).
I have every reason to beUeve that I was the first
European who had ever visited the phace, and I may
mention that, when I came to stay here later on, natives
would make journeys of four or five days to see the
Foreign Devil who they heard was living there. Being
very tired, I was glad to find a fairly decent house, and
after tea turned in early.

On the next day, October 10, 1 started to reconnoitre
and make inquiries of such natives as I might be fortu-
nate enough to meet with, for the district is ver}' thinly
populated, the few that do inhabit it growing a little
Indian corn for their food, and it is worthy of note that
here they will not eat rice. Before I had gone far I
came across the tracks of a wild pig, which I followed
for some distance, and then, not far from it, found the
remains of a domestic pig that had evidently been killed
by a leopard, for the tracks could be plainly seen. These
I decided to follow, and found they led into the thick
jungle, where in most places it was impossible to advance
except upon hands and knees. Soon I came upon
the lairs of two of them, which they must have ver}-
recently quitted, for they were still warm to the hand ;
probably the brutes had been alarmed at my approach.
The jungle now became so thick, and progress so slow,

32 BETUBN TO ICHANG

that I was reluctantly obliged to give up tlie pursuit ;
and perhaps it would have been wiser never to have
attempted it, as they would have been very awkward
customers in such a close thicket.

I remained until October 14, by which time I had
satisfied myself that the locality was admirably adapted
for making collections, provided it was visited at the
proper season of the year. I therefore made arrange-
ments to take the house for four months in the following
spring and summer, and shall describe the place more
fully wdien dealing with my longer visit. Before leaving
I ascended to the ridge of the range, the altitude of which
I found to be 6,500 feet, the southern slope being more
grassy than the northern. Pheasants were fairly plenti-
fitl, both Eeeves' and the common, and I shot several
before I left.

As it was useless to think of collecting in Chang-
yang in the early part of the 3'ear, its altitude being
too great, I wished to make a short expedition up the
river to see what could be done close to its banks. For
this purpose the Consul very kindly lent me his house-
boat, and in her I left on March 30. I had often
heard from the Europeans of an enormous creeping
plant not far from the town, but on the opposite side of
the river, and I now determined to make a visit to it.
When at some little distance off, it presents the appear-

ENORMOUS CBEEPEBS 33

aiice of a large mass of dark-green foliage, and on land-
ing I found that there were two separate plants growing
just above the high-level water mark of the river, and
in such a position tliat the bases of the trunks would
])e submerged during floods. These plants formed a
truly remarkable sight, the stems being much larger
round than a man's body, and growing in a slanting
direction; l)ranches are thrown out all round, and creep
over a clump of bamboos which support them from the
ground, some of the branches reaching to a height of over
sixty feet from the surface. They cover a considerable
area — not less, in my estimation, than half an acre each.
After a diligent search I found a few seeds among the
dead leaves on the ground, and one seed pod. As this
was not its flowering season, I paid another visit when
it was in bloom, and found the blossoms were papilio-
naceous, about the size round of a florin, and produced
in bunches about a foot long from the main stem and
principal branches. They were of a deep maroon
colour and waxy appearance, the interior being covered
with stiff" hairs, and are much sought after by hymenop-
terous insects ; so much so, indeed, that their buzzing is
almost sufficiently loud to drown ordinary conversation
beneath. The seeds are the size of large broad beans,
and are contained in pods about six inches long. This
remarkable plant is evergreen, and the branches are

D

34 SOAP TBEES

inhabited by nunierous species of birds, amongst
which pigeons and several kinds of thrush were most
common.

The ground beneath these creepers forms a favourite
playground for native children, who carry off the seeds
for playthings. Near this a species of soap tree grows,
and attains a height of seventy or eighty feet, with a
girth of about six feet. Its foliage resembles that of the
common ash, but is of a darker green, with the leaves
not so pointed. The useful part is the pod, which is
gathered, stored, and used, without any further prepara-
tion, in the same way and for the same purpose as soap
is used. These pods are of a dark-brown colour, and
about six inches long. A more highly prized pod is
produced on the mountains, and this is shorter but
thicker than that grown on the plains. The tree pro-
ducing it appears to be a species of acacia, judging
from the leaf and flower, the latter being yellow. Care
must be taken when using this natural soap that the
hands are free from cuts or abrasions, for it finds these
out at once and causes intense pain. For the same
reason it cannot be used for the face, as if a particle
enters the eye it is at least half an hour before the pain
is got rid of.

Passing up the river, I now entered the Ichang
Gorge, where the scenery is magnificent. Instead of

MU-TAN RAPID 85

low, swampy banks, tlie river is here confined by
mountains and precipices. The towing path is now-
confined to one side of the river only, and sometimes
has to be cut out of the face of a cliff. In tlie course
of a few hours I reached the village of Pin-san-pa, where
oranges are cultivated by the natives. This is a small
Le-kin, or Custom House station, where native boats are
•examined. After a short stay the journey up the river
was resumed, and Shi-pi-san was soon reached. This
is a village about fifteen miles from Ichang, situated on
the right bank of the river, and at the upper extremity
of the gorge.

The river here takes a sharp bend to the northward,
and from this point may l3e seen a range of mountains
to the southward and away from the river, which
I ascended when on another expedition, but found too
much cultivated around to make it a i>ood collectino-
station. The first night was passed here, and starting
the next morning at 5.30, the bend of the river was
followed round, and the same precipitous banks were
found, which in some places were very prettily covered
with vegetation, among which ferns were conspicuous,
till, at 3 P.M., the Mu-tan Eapid was reached, which is
remarkable only as being the first on the river. Track-
ino- on till dark, a small village was reached, where the

boat was secured for the night.

D y

30 LU-KAN GOBGE

Oil proceeding the next morning the Ta-tung Eapid
was reached and safely passed, it not being very difR-
cuh in the hnv state of the river, but is dangerous when
tlie water is rising, and also when it is high. The river
here widens out considerably, and most of the dangers
of the rapids were exposed, many of the huge granite
boulders being twenty feet above the water. These are
entirely submerged in the spring and smnmer, and a
curious thing to l)e noticed here, as well as at other
rapids on the river, is the way in which deep scores are
cut and large holes worn in the hard rocks, the former
h\ the bamboo tracking ropes of generations of boat-
men, and the latter made by the constant use of the
steel-shod Ijamboo pole in the same place in fending
the boats off. It may be here mentioned that many of
the large junks that pass up this rapid have a crew of
as many as eighty men.

The scenery is very wild and rocky, and after a
hard day's work the boat was made fast for the night
at about five miles below the celebrated Sin-tan Eaj^id.
Starting early the next morning the Lu-kan Gorge was
passed through, the river now taking a sharp turn to
the south, and then, rounding a steep rocky cliff, almost
immediately turns to the westward again. This pro-
duces a curious effect on ascending the river, as at first
o-lance one is apt to think that further progress is

-> or

SJN-TAN HAP ID 87

impossible. The scenery is very fine, as may be seen
from tlie illustration. The goriie is not lon_i>-, but is
dark and gloomy, and soon breaks into a more open
country. Here on the left bank a vein of shale about
two yards thick crops up, and is worked by the natives.
Cormorants ma}' be seen nesting among the crags. Sin-
tan was reached at about twelve o'clock, and I saw for
the first time this notorious rapid. The boat I was in
was too old to venture to make the ascent, and, more-
over, was not fitted with the necessary Ijeams. It was
low water now, and the most dangerous time at the
rapid, for when the river rises sampans aiul junks may
be seen ascending and descending in comparatively
smooth water. There is, I believe, sufiicient water for
a light-draught steamer at all times, but at some little
distance out. I gathered from the natives that when
the river is at its lowest some of the rOcks are visible
above the surface.

The most dangerous part is in the centre, where
there are man}^ whirlpools, and there is great annual
loss of life from drowning. The large junks have at
low water to be lightened before passing up, part of
the cargo being carried by coolies to the other end of
the rapid, where it is re-stowed. Most of the population
get their living by tracking and transporting cargoes.

On April 2 I hired a sampan above the rapid and

38 BOCK LADDER

proceeded up the Me-tan Gorge, where vertical chffs.
descend sheer into the water, which is many fathoms
deep. It took two hours to reach the other end, where
tlie banks opened and one was able to land. Here I
got a few butterflies, but nothing worthy of mention.
After tiffin I returned to Sin-tan, and on landing and
walkini;- through the village to mv boat I twice had
sand thrown in my face, and was frequently insulted.
I attributed this exhibition of hostility by the natives
to their connecting me in some way with a rumour that
had reached them of the river being opened to steamer
traffic, which, if it ever did happen, would of course
seriously damage, if not ruin, their principal source of
livelihood. As, however, the Chinese Government have
reserved to themselves the right to have the first
steamer on this part of the river, it is not likely that it
will ever be open to steam navigation. On getting on
board there was a fair wind, and a start was made on
the return journey. A short distance down a tempting-
looking gorge was seen running down to the river, but
on landing I found only disappointment awaiting, for
I soon found my progress effectually barred by a water-
fall tumbling over unclimbable rocks. Close by is one
of the extraordinary paths, or rather ladders, made by a
series of steps cut into the almost perpendicular surface
of the rock, taking advantage of every favourable

NEEDLE OF HEAVEN 39

gradient and ledge, and zig-zagging up in a most
curions fashion, sometimes making a very wide sweep
to avoid an overhanging spur or perpendicular surface.
On attempting it I found that the ascent was very
tiring, and the descent extremely difficult, if not
dangerous.

On April 3 the homeward journey was continued,
and on landing at a gorge I found that I could ascend
it and reach some mountains about four miles inland.
There was, however, too much cultivated land to make
it worth Avliile to collect, indigenous vegetation being
found in the glens only. In these are large boulders
of grey granite and much iron pyrites. The next
day I collected in such glens as I found accessible,
and stopped for the night at the village of Nan-too.
From this place is seen a range of hills, which are made
very conspicuous by having their front of high white
cliffs, one being a precipice 2,000 feet deep. The range
is crowned with many sharp peaks, one of which is
called by the natives the ' Needle of Heaven.'

On April 5 Ichang was again reached, and this
short trip concluded.

40

CHAPTEE IV

CHANG-YANG

Preparations for trip to Chang-yang — Hiring coolies — Passport — Start
with Dr. Henry — Description of house — Eobbery of cash — Collecting
Coleoptera — Pony killed by tiger — Tigers common, but no man-
eaters — Poisoning tigers — "Wild pigs — Boars' tusks offered for sale as
tigers' teeth — Deer — Porcupines — Pheasants — Plants and flowers —
Hostility of natives — I complain at Ichang — Punishment of agita-
tors— Excursion to the South — Deep ravines — Etu River — Varnish
tree — Method of collecting varnish — Trade of district — Edible fungus
— Heavy damages — Preparation for return to Ichang.

As the time now approached for my projected stay in
Chang-yang, 1 commenced making such preparations
as were necessar}' for a prolonged visit to such a wild
region. The first thing to be considered was money.
Silver would, of course, be much easier to carry than
thousands of cash, but I had learnt from my previous
visit that it was far too valuable for use among such a
poor people. If change of a tael was wanted, one
mio-ht have to send to a village half a dav's iournev off to
get it. The natives also were particular as to the sort
of cash they would accept, being partial to the large,
not that they would not take the small, Ijut tliey re-
garded them as of compai-atively less value. I therefore

HIlilNG COOLIES 41

made arrangements to get as many thousands of the hirge
cash as T lliought T should require from the bankers
and merchants. Their weight was considerable, and
the cost of transport added not a little to the expense
of the journey up.

I tlu'u saw to my collecting boxes, cases, &c., all of
which were made of teak, the only wood I found service-
able in the damp climate in which I was to live for four
months. For firearms I had a double 12, a small
collecting gun, a Winchester repeater, and a revolver.
I also laid in a stock of tinned provisions, as from former
experience I found that nothing eatable, except Indian
corn and millet, was to be had I was afterwards
much disappointed with these, as a large proportion
turned out to be bad.

These things, together with my clothing, bedding,
nets, &c., made loads for fifteen coolies. It is never
advisable to hire these in the street, but to go to a ]iong,
where no doubt a little more has to be paid, Imt then
a written agreement can be made with the manao-er,
whereby he is made responsible for the honest}' of the
men he may send you, and be held liable in case of
theft. It should also be stipulated that a head coolie
is sent for every seven to ten men, who is, again, made
responsible for the men under his charge. He is paid
at the same rate as the others, but carries a lighter load.

42 DESCRIPTION OF HOUSE

and his duties are to keep liis men np to their work,
and make all arrangements for their feeding, &c. It
is always usual to give a cumshaw or present at the
end of a journey if the men have behaved themselves
well. The hongs where coolies are to be engaged are
licensed by the local government.

My passport for the province of Hu-peh having been
already obtained at Hankow, and all being ready for a
start, I left Ichang on April 16, accompanied by Dr.
Henry as far as the barrier, he having obtained three
months' leave, which he intended to sj^end in a botani-
cal and exploring trip all round Ichang.

The journe}' to Chang-yang lias been described
before, and the only difference between this and the
former journey was, that it occupied four days instead
of three, I arriving at my destination on April 20.

Here I found that the house had been cleared out
and cleaned for my reception. It was about 30 feet by
20 feet, with mud walls about 12 feet high, and had an
earthen floor and a thatched roof, but no internal divi-
sions. This was inconvenient, and as soon as possible I
got a rough native carpenter in, and made him build a
partition right across from the ridge to the floor. In
the partition I had a door fitted with a lock, so that my
collections, money, and other valuables might be kept
in reasonable security; and as this private room of

liOBBEBY OF CASH 48

mine was fairly lofty, I had a boarded floor put in,
about eight feet fi-oiii the oroniid, and ascended to it,
by means of a huhhn' from the outside. Tliis T made
mv bedroom, and when the arranijements were com-
pleted, found myself fairly comfortable. In the outer
room the cookinii' was done, and here the coolies, col-
lectors, &c.,. assembled. The outer doors were secured
on the inside by two stout pieces of timl^er sliding across
as a protecti(m against robbers, who are reputed to be
common in this particularly wild region.

The day after my arrival I paid off and discharged
the Ichang coolies, keeping onl}' my cook and inter-
preter and a boy with me. Soon after their departure
I found that the large cash I had been to such trouble
to secure had all been changed for small, and ujjon in-
quiry discovered that the thief was a native of the dis-
trict, who had come down by arrangement to assist and
act as a guide to my coolies. I blamed myself very much
for having trusted him with such a valuable load, which,
if it had been taken by a coolie engaged from the hong,
would in all probability have been delivered untam-
pered with. The thief naturally kept out of my way,
and I was unable to afford time to trace him out and
have punishment administered, which was unfortunate,
as it set a bad example to the other natives, who might
think they could treat me in the same way.

44 PONY KILLED BY TIGER

It was now wet weather, and too early for butter-
tlies ; but my time was fully occupied in getting the
native collectors acquainted with the work I wished of
them, establishing different stations, &c., and then in
spare time beating the flowering bushes, with a light
but closely woven circular basket held underneath, to
collect the small, but highly interesting, coleopterous
insects that abound in such places. I felt convinced
that the place would eventually prove rich in Lepi-
doptera, and in this I was not disappointed.

On April 23 I was informed that a tiger had killed
a pom% and upon proceeding to the spot found the
pony to be one that my boy and myself had noticed
feeding the day before. The tiger must have been
an enormous brute, as his footmarks measured oi
inches across. I found during my stay that tigers
are very numerous in this district, and that they do
much damage to the live-stock of the natives, which
consists of horses, ponies, cows, and pigs. They never,
as far as I could learn, attack human beings, and the
natives are strangely careless in the protection of their
live-stock. Pigs, for example, are usually kept in a
small bamboo pen by the side of the hut, and if one is
taken out by a tiger, the owner will replace it as soon
as he is able ; but the idea of using a few more bamboos
in making the pen or sty secure against another attack,

POISONING TIGERS 45

does not appear to enter into his liead. Poison is used
to destroy them, as well as leopards, in the following
manner. When the remains of an animal that has been
killed are found, an incision is made down the back of
the neck, and the skin drawn aside. Two powders are
then rubbed in, the first, of which a considerable quan-
tity is used, being of an emerald-green colour ; the other
is white, and not much (perhaps an ounce) is con-
sidered sufficient. I was unable to find out what these
powders consisted of, and it would be interesting to
know, for they are undoubtedly very effective in poison-
ing the tigers or leopards, whose flesh is invariably de-
voured again b}^ their poisoners, after having been
boiled in two or three waters, and, as far as I could
hear, without any ill-effects following.

On visiting a carcass that has been poisoned, the
natives arm themselves with long spears, the only occa-
sion on which they are carried except when in the pursuit
of wild pig. Many people in China assured me that
pigs and tigers are never found together in the same
locality, but I am convinced they are mistaken, as here
they both occurred plentifully, and leopards as well.
In small covers and jungles it is quite possible that the
presence of a tiger or leopard might cause a general
exodus of the pigs ; but in forest lands, such as are
found here, they exist together in numbers. The only

46 VALUE OF TIGEBS

tiger that I saw here destroyed by poison had killed a
pig on June 28, and partly eaten it. The remains were
poisoned in the manner previously described, and left
till the next morning, when, on approaching, the brute
was seen about a hundred yards from its prey in a
helpless, cramped condition, and it very soon died. It
proved to be a fine young male, and measured as fol-
lows : Tip of nose to base of tail, 66 inches ; tail, 34
inches ; round head, 29 inches ; round neck, 23 inches ;
round fore-arm, 28 inches ; length of fore-leg, 26 inches ;
round fore-foot, 13^ inches ; length of hind leg, 29^
inches ; round hind foot, 10 inches. Eight coolies were
required to carry the carcass to the house, where it was
triced up to a beam and skinned. This operation, to-
gether with cutting the flesh off the bones, took a great
part of the night ; the latter was undertaken as I wished
to preserve the skeleton.

The meat, &c., was all carried off and devoured, the
bones being put to macerate ; and now a new difli-
culty presented itself to me. This was how to prevent
their being stolen, as they are worth at least thirty taels,
and are used partly in medicine. Some are supposed to
be most effective in strengthening the muscles on which
they are rubbed, a rounded bone of the hind leg being
much prized for this purpose. I therefore kept them in
a tub of water in the house until my nostrils rebelled.

WILD PIGS 47

They were then put out of doors at some distance
away ; but I was obhged to have a cooUe on g-uard day
and night over the tub, and owing to these precautions
I managed to keep the skeleton entire.

To show liow common tigers are, I may mention
that this tiger was killed on June 29, and on July 2 a
tiger killed a pony, both of- these being close to my
house, while from a hamlet about two miles distant,
and situated over a spur of the mountain, I had almost
daily reports of domestic animals, such as j)onies, oxen,
and pigs, being killed by tigers or leopards.

Wild pigs are common, and do much damage at
night in the fields of Indian corn, the mischief most
frequently being done when the grain is ripe or nearly
so. At this time they are sometimes surprised by
the natives and killed with the long spears mentioned
before. At other times they are marked into detached
patches of jungle or small woods, and surrounded and
kiUed.

One day a native brought me two wild boars' tusks
and some of the fine, almost bristle-like, quills of the
porcupine. These he wished to sell to me, saying they
were the teeth and whiskers of an enormous tiger. He
asked a fabulous price for them ; but upon my telling
him to what animals they had once belonged, he
eventually offered to make me a present of them.

48 PHEASANTS

A small species of deer is found in the rocky parts
of the forest, which are very difficuh of access. They
are far from bein"' common, but on one occasion a
specimen was brought in ahve, which I purchased.
Unfortunately, I failed to keep it for long.

Porcupines are common, living among the rocks,
but being nocturnal in their habits are not often seen.
Their quills may be frequently picked up, and numbers
were brouglit in by mv collectors. I also obtained a
young specimen alive, and sent it to Mr. Montgomery
at Ichano- where it lived and thrived.

Golden pheasants were not found near my house,
but at a place about two days' journey distant appeared
to be numerous, as many were brought to me alive,
having been snared by the leg. The common and
Reeves' pheasants were plentiful where I lived, and I
occasionally shot them to vary my diet of Indian corn-
cake, but being out of season they were not very pala-
table. These also were caught by the natives in snares.
I noticed a species of woodcock here, ])ut it was not by
any means common.

The poppy is cultivated in the valleys for the pro-
duction of opium, which is used principally to barter
for goods brought from the towns.

In May and June the cuckoo may be heard, remind-
ing one of home, and the air is loaded with the fragrance

DISOIWEELY CONDUCT 49

of the honeysuckle. Azaleas grow to a heii^lit of from
twelve to fourteen feet, and are covered with pink
blossoms. There is also a very fine clematis running
over the rocks. Higher up in the forest, rhododen-
drons are found growing luxuriantly and in many fine
varieties, some specimens being twenty feet high and
bearing large white fragrant blossoms. Towards the
north the country is much broken ; range after range
could be seen on a clear day from my mud house. Look-
ing to the west, the .spurs are covered with dense forest,
and I remember on one particular moonlight night the
black forest standing out against the horizon, the
loneliness, isolation and wildness of the scene were
most impressive.

After residing for two months here, reports were
constantly reaching me that the natives had convinced
themselves that my stay would bring them bad luck.
One day I found a disorderly crowd at my house, and
heard that a big meeting was to be held the following
day to consider what steps should be taken to remove
me. Two days later I found notices pasted on the
trees all round, to the effect that any native who was
found to be collecting for me, or assisting me in any
way, would be bambooed, and stating that I was
bringing bad luck to the district. At the same time I
was threatened that, if I did not remove immediately,

E

60 PUNISHMENT OF BINGLEADEBS

I should be tied up to a tree and beaten. Under these
circumstances my work came to a standstill, but I felt
sure that the state of affairs could be remedied by
application to the proper authority. Leaving all my
things in the house in charge of the interpreter, I
started for Ichang, with one coolie only, on July 28, and
travelling light, made the journey in two days. Here I
at once went to her Majesty's Consul (Mr. Gregory), who
at my request reported the state of affairs to the prefect
of the town. Letters were immediately sent by him to
the magistrate at Chang-yang by special runners ; and
after making sure that these were well on their way,
I started on my return journey on August 5, as I was
especially anxious not to lose any time. I was again
only two days on the road, and on arriving found the
house safe and everything quiet ; the object of my
journey being known, had somewhat damped the
ardour of some of the more prominent agitators. On
August 12 seven men arrived bearing a despatch for
me from the Chang-yang magistrate. They asked me
to explain everything to them, and after having done
so and also indicated the ringleaders of the disturbance,
they squeezed them to the extent of several thousand
cash (a considerable sum for such poor people), and had
notices put up throughout the district, in every village
and hamlet, commanding that I was to be left at peace.

VAENISH TREES 51'

Having done this they left, and I had no more trouble
of the sort, everything going on smoothly and all the
collectors rejoining my service. The weather was, how-
ever, now beginning to get cold, with heavy rain, showing
plainly that the season for collecting was drawing to a
close, and that I should soon have to return. I decided
before going to make an excursion over the summit of
the range and into the valley beyond. When I got to the
ridge I saw that the country to the southward was much
more open, there being no forest ; the surface also was
more cultivated, and there were no more mountain
ranges near, but it was much cut up by deep ravines
and watercourses, which were rich in beautiful plants,
flowers, and ferns. It is no exaggeration to say that
it is quite possible to talk to a man across one of
these ravines when it would perhaps take two days'
journey to reach him, so deep and precipitous are they
and dangerous to traverse. The watercourses, which
are very numerous, form tributaries of the Etu liiver,
which enters the Yang-tze twenty miles below Ichang,
and is navigable for sampans only for some distance
from its mouth. Here is found the tree whose sap
produces vegetable varnish (Rhus vernicifera?). It
grows to about the size of an ordinary ash or walnut
on the sides of the slopes at considerable elevation. In
the month of May longitudinal incisions are made in

n 2

52 EDIBLE FUNGUS

the trunk and limbs, and at the lower end of each is
inserted the shell of a species of freshwater mussel, into
which the sap, which is of the consistence of thick
cream, flows. These are carefullj?' emptied into a
wooden bucket every morning, and the bleeding is
continued for about a fortnight. The quantity of sap
produced from each incision is very small, and it takes
a long time to half fill the bucket. The collectors suffer
from a severe form of rash. This varnish is an article
of considerable importance, and forms with walnuts,
which are produced in quantities, and a small quantity
of opium, the only articles of commerce. Tea of a very
inferior quality, the commonest pottery, and coarse
native cotton cloth are the only articles brought into
this poor and primitive region, where the system of
barter generally prevails. In this neighbourhood a
certain species of glutinous-lookir^g fungus is found
growing in lumps on various sorts of trees in damp
places, and this is much appreciated as an article of
food. My coolies collected as much as they could, and
after consuming what they wished, took the remainder
to Icliang to give to their friends or to sell. My ex-
pedition to the south extended over three days, and on
my return to the house I commenced to make prepara-
tions for a return to Ichang. I could congratulate
myself upon having made a very satisfactory collection

EETUEN TO ICIIANG 63

in spite of the dillieultics that were put in my way.
Those that have been menlioned were not the only
ones, and as a fnrther illustration of the way in which
I was treated, on one occasion one of my men, collect-
in<>- a large species of Ornithoptera, unfortunately
damaged a few shoots of growing Indian corn, doing
harm to the extent probably of twenty cash. An old
woman came up, and poured forth upon us some of the
most flowery portions of the Chinese language with such
volubility and persistence that she caused a croM^d to
collect, and to avoid a disturbance I was oblisjed to
pay 2,000 cash. It took some time getting everything
together and packed, getting the apparatus from the
native collectors, and especially seeing to the bottles
containing cyanide (as to leave these among such a
careless and ignorant people would be culpable), and
arranging for stationing collectors for the following
season. At last, having completed everything, I left for
Ichang, and took four days over the journey. I found
the river very high, and the current so strong that the
boat was swept down two miles and had to be tracked
up on the other side.

54

CHAPTEE V

SHA-SHin AXD PA -CHOW

Excm-sion to Sha-shih — Large town with considerable trade — Ravages of
cholera — Ho-sia — Try to find lakes, but fail — -Trouble at a village —
False information — Further insults — Treachery of coolies — Arrival
at boat — Sturgeon — Stopped by head wind — AVashing for gold —
Tiger's Tooth Gorge — Loss of silver-laden jiuik — Rettu'n to Shanghai
with Mrs. Pratt — Purchase cases for collections and duck-guns — Wild-
fowl on Yang-tze — Return to Ichang — Floods — Decrease in size of
river above Tung-ting Lakes — Arrive at Ichang — Contract for boat
to be built — Delay in building — Trip to Pa-chow — Cranes and storks
at Hope Island — Geese at Pa-chow — Etn — Return to Ichang^
Departvu-e of Mrs. Pratt and children for England — Description of
boat and arrangements on board.

My collections from Chang-yang were now finally looked
over, packed ujd, and despatched home. When this
was finished several excursions were made down the
river, and such as might interest the reader will be
described.

On November 17, the Consul having kindly offered
me the use of his house-boat, I went down to Sha-shih,
which is eighty miles from Ichang, and being with the
current, the journey was made in one day. I stayed at
this place for a few hours, and found two English
missionaries, Mr. and Mrs. Gulston ; the former kindly

SHA-SHIH 65

accompanied me througli the town. It is a place of
considerable size, having a population of about 100,000,
and has fine streets and shops for a Chinese town. It is
a large trade centre, and at certain seasons hundreds of
junks maybe seen waiting for the water to fall, in order
to proceed up the river. They form rows nearly two
miles long, and thickly packed off the town ; their
cargoes being principally cotton goods for the up-river
ports. Mr. Gulston informed me that last year the
cholera worked terrific destruction among the inhabi-
tants of the town, and that the stench from the corpses
was almost unbearable, the Chinese custom being to
allow a considerable time to elapse between death and
interment, without taking into any consideration the
state of the weather.

Continuing down the stream, I arrived at lio-sia,
thirty miles further, on the 19th. Having heard that
there were some lakes inland that were much frequented
by wading birds, I wished to visit them and have some
shooting, if possible. I landed with one of my men
and, with the intention of spending the night on shore,
hired a coolie, who professed to know the way, to carry
my things. After several hours' walk through a very
fertile country in which tobacco and sugar are largely
grown, and seeing no traces of the lakes, he brought
me to a large and thickly populated village, where I

56 DIFFICULTIES WITH NATIVES

found the inhabitants very badly disposed towards
foreigners.

Here I was stoned and insuUed, but getting away as
•quickly as possible, proceeded with the coolie in further
search of the lakes. He proved to be an utter impostor,
for I never saw a lake the whole day, and after another
walk of some distance found myself in a small village,
where I was told by the peasants that by means of a
stream near I could get down to the river in a sampan
to within a short distance of the place where the house-
boat lay. I have no hesitation in saying that I was
deliberately deceived by false information, for on pro-
ceeding in the direction indicated, no stream could be
found. I now found a fresh difficulty, for the coolie
threw down my things and refused to carry them any
further.

A crowd quickly assembled, and I found myself in
a most disagreeable position, for they were anything but
friendly, and again stones and mud were thrown at me.
The man I had brought from the boat ultimately found
two men to do the work of the one who had struck, and
I engaged them at an exorbitant wage, for I was quite at
their mercy. Before they had gone far they put down
their loads and refused to proceed further unless paid
400 cash, and to this demand I felt obliged to yield.
A little further on they just put the loads down and left

STURGEON 67

me. For the third time I was in a crowd of natives,
who appear to quickly assemble in cases of the sort,
and after more nuid-throwing and insults, my boatman
got two coolies who eventually carried my things down
to the boat, where I arrived at 11.30 I'.m., after a most
disagreeable time, and having had nothing to eat all
day. The farmhouses in the district through which 1
passed appeared to be better and more substantially
built than usual ; but the natives are undoubtedly hos-
tile to Europeans, and, among other things, they are
given to assemble on the banks of the river to pelt with
stones the steamers running between Hankow and
Ichang.

On November 20 I commenced my return journey
up the stream, and after a few miles found a fisherman
with a freshly-caught sturgeon still alive. This is the
fish which, as I have mentioned before, I was unable to
purchase. It weighed about 200 catties (260 lbs.), and
was between eight and nine feet long. The captor had
hauled it up on the bank previous to cutting it up for
sale. The boat was secured for the night at a village
called Da-ku, and on trying to proceed the next morn-
ing I found that the wind was too strong to allow
tracking up-stream, so the boat was huloed over to the
other side to try on the more sheltered bank ; but it was
of no use, and she had to be secured in a creek until

68 WASHING FOB GOLD

the gale subsided. While here, I witnessed for the
first time the interesting operation of washing for gold,
which is carried on more or less all ujd the river.
About forty men were engaged at this part, and worked
in pairs, one man being em23loyed in digging the earth
out of the bank and carryini*- it to the other, who
worked the washing apparatus, which was of very crude
construction. It consisted of a basket slung so as to
be easily rocked, and of coarse construction, having a
wooden lever attached to rock it with. Underneath
was a board about six feet long by four broad, in which
were cut a number of transverse grooves. This was
fixed in an inclined, position, the upper part being under
the rocking-basket. The earth was tipped into the
basket, the man attending- working- the lever with one
hand, while with the other he threw water into it. The
contents being thus washed through, ran down the in-
clined board, the black sand and gold dust lodging in
the grooves, and the lighter soil being washed away.
About every four hours the grooves were scraped out,
and the dust and sand collected in small bags for trans-
port home, when it would be treated with mercury to
collect the gold. The amount recovered, however, is
very small, and I understood that the average daily
earnings were about 100 cash per man — say o^d. in
English money. Only a Chinese could live upon such

LOSS OF TltEASUUE 59

a sum, and yet there are thousands so engaged in the
upper parts of the river.

The next day, the wind having moderated, I was
able to continue my return voyage up the river, and
arrived at Sha-shih at about 3 i\.m. Proceeding up-
wards again the next day, I stopped at what is called
the Tiger's Tooth Gorge. This is not a gorge in the
proper sense of the word at all, but simply some hills
which come close to the river banks. On the right
bank there is a curious natural bridge at a considerable
elevation, so high that from the river the sky may be
seen underneath it. Some years ago a junk laden with
a large quantity of shoe silver, the property of the
Government, was wrecked near here ; but although
many attempts were made to recover her valuable cargo
they all proved fruitless, not a single piece of silver
being ever recovered.

I found on my return that my wife was suffering
from a severe attack of fever. She was, indeed, so
seriously ill that I considered it necessary to take her
to Shanghai for medical advice, and we therefore em-
barked in the next steamer for Hankow. Provided
that the shoals near Sunday Island are passed without
the boat getting aground, the passage usually takes
about three days, but if the steamer should happen to
get ashore, she may stop there for some days. At

W WILD FOWL

Hankow a change is made into a larger steamer, and
after three days more Shanghai is reached.

Here I at once set about getting a supply of tin-
lined cases for the collection I proposed to make in the
far west of China and in Tibet. These are made very
well in Shanghai, but I was unable to get them at
Ichang. I was also fortunate enough to be able to buy
two large-bore shoulder duck-guns, such things not
usually being found for sale here. The Yang-tze-kiang
is the home of myriads of wild-fowl of many kinds,
and in the lower part of the river, especially at a place
called Wu-hu, they are shot with comparative ease, as
there are, as a rule, plenty of reeds, rushes, &c., which
afford some cover. Further up the river, however,
things change considerably, for there are generally
plenty of wild-fowl and little or no cover. They are,
therefore, very difficult to approach, and an ordinary
12-bore is not of much use. I took one of these
duck-guns afterwards into Tibet, where it proved to be
•of the greatest possible service.

After a stay of a month at Shanghai my wife had
nearly recovered from her attack of fever, and I now
thought it would be safe to return up the river and pre-
pare for my most important trip — that to Tibet, if I could
get as far. The journey up is a more tedious affair than
the journey down, and takes from ten days to three

TUNG-TING LAKES GI

weeks to accomplish, the time being according to the
strength of current which has to be combated. When
the river is high the current is strong, and may be aug-
mented by flood water from certain districts, and the
floods, unless caused by the melting of the snow in the
upper part of the river, are nearly always local, the
breadth of the river bed gradually reducing the ap-
parent volume of water as it passes down towards
the sea. Thus Ichang may be in flood, and at Hankow
only a slight rise may be observed ; and Hankow may
be flooded from the Han Eiver and Tung-ting Lakes,
while a slight rise only is noted in the lower reaches,
where the river widens considerably. Another cause
of delay in the upward journey is the uncertainty of
finding the steamer for the upper river ready at Han-
kow. Passengers may have to wait there for three or
four days.

After leaving Hankow we soon came to the mouth
of the Tung-ting Lakes, and saw many of the boats for
which the district is well known. These are very clean,
small, and narrow, and are half-decked, by which pecu-
liarities they may be easily recognised among the other
river-trading boats. It is worthy of note that the river
traffic seems to increase quite 100 per cent, below the
entrance to these lakes, indicating that there is a large
inland trade through them. The river decreases in

€2 GONTBACT FOB BOAT

volume very much, after passing the entrance, and
though I made every endeavour to find out something
about the district in which they are situated, I failed to
get any reliable information. That an enormous trade
takes place through tliem is evident ; but as far as I
could find out, they liad not been explored to their
southern limits by any European for many years, if
ever, and the rivers running into them run from the
province of Quei-chow, nearly touching the borders of
Quang-si and Quang-tung. This is irrespective of the
province of Hoo-nan, in which the lakes are situated,
so it is evident that they form a road to the Yang-
tze-kiang from at least four large provinces.

On my arrival at Ichang, I commenced by trying
to find a boat suitable for my purpose to ascend to
Kia-ting-fu, and having sufficient room for the storage
of collections, &c. It was soon evident that nothing
was to be bought that was in any way desirable, and I
had no intention of hiring, as I wished on arrival at
the town mentioned to discharge the greater part of
the crew, and keep the boat afloat as a sort of base to
which I could send my things as fast as they were col-
lected. Nothing remained, then, but to have such a boat
as I required built, and as soon as possible I had rough
specifications drawn up, and asked contractors to give
a price. After a fortnight this was to all appearance

BIVAL CONTBACTOB 63

settled satisfactorily, I having given the contract to a
native builder, and with the promise of a premium for
each day she was in the water before a certain date, he
at the same time being liable to a corresponding fine
for each day she was late.

The work was now commenced, but before any pro-
gress had been made to speak of, a rival builder, whose
claim was that he had always before constructed boats
for the Europeans, appeared upon the scene, and tried
to assert his claims to have the work put into his hands.
Finding that his demands received no attention, he col-
lected a band of such riffraff as he could find, and did
all he could to hinder my man at his work, and it was
only after an appeal to the Consul that this obstruction
was put a stop to by his representation to the prefect
of the town. This disturbance, I may mention, caused
a cessation of work for a fortnight. I should here say
that my contract was for a boat about 36 feet on the
water-line, to be built of pine, with 10 feet beam, and
having a flat floor and long counter, the only difference
in the construction of the actual hull from that of the
ordinary native gunboats being that on each side of the
timbers, which were of a red wood resembling juniper,
there should be a good knee of the same wood, the
ordinary practice being to have one only. I stipulated
for this extra strengthening because, as it may be

64 HOPE ISLAND

remembered, I had gone up to the Sin-tan Eapids before,
and was able to see the amount of knocking about a
boat might have to go through. She was only to
draw about two feet of water when fully loaded, and
to be fitted for ascending all the rapids that might be
met with.

Having seen the boat fairly started in building, I
was able to take a trip down the river to an island
called Pa-chow, about thirty miles from Ichang. I
went with Mr. Montgomery in his boat, and having the
duck-guns with us as well as the smaller bores, we got at
Swain's Shoal, within sight of the town, a shot with one
of the former, which resulted in bagging five teal and
two ducks. Proceeding further down we got to Hope
Island, which is from four to five miles long, with ponds
in the centre, but having no cover to speak of. It is
frequented by wild-fowl of many species, but more es-
pecially by a very large species of crane, one of which
I was anxious to secure as a specimen. In this I was
disappointed, for it seemed impossible to get within
range on such flat ground. This crane, and also a stork
marked in a very striking manner with black and
white, were frequently seen on various parts of the
river in this district, but, often as I tried, I was unable
to obtain a specimen of either. On the island were to
be seen many cranes, storks, pelicans, and eagles.

FA-CHOW ISLAND 65

After o-etting a few ducks only, we went on to Ta-cliow.
This island is in great part submerged when the river
is high, and is situated near the right bank of the
Yang-tze-kiang. There is a passage for native craft
between it and the shore at all times, but as the river
subsides the sands are very dangerous, being quick,
or running, until the water lias drained out of them.
They are then hard, and quite safe.

The island may be from seven to ten miles long, and
is sparingly inhabited, there being a few hamlets onl3^
The natives occupy themselves as agriculturists or
fishermen, but are all very poor. Numbers of grey
geese are seen on the banks, but they are very difficult
to approach. At mid-day they may be seen in large
flocks resting on the dry sands in the higher parts of
the island. At night they go inland to the corn-fields
to feed, and do much damage to the crops. Cranes
and storks of the same species that were seen at Hope
Island were also seen here plentifully, and a small
species of turkey buzzard also. Deer occur sparingly
on the island, and are not easily shot. They are of a
small species. On the bank of the river opposite the
island very good pheasant shooting used to be had,
but it has now been ruined by the Chinese, w^ho have
destroyed the cover.

We now commenced our return, and on the way up

P

GG ETU

the river stopped at Etu, twenty miles below Ichang,
which is situated on the bank of a river flowing into the
Yana-tze, and which I had on a former occasion ascended
for about ten miles in a steam launch. The town stands
high up on the right bank, well out of the way of floods,
and a considerable trade is carried on with Ichang in
the vegetable varnish before mentioned, opium, and
garden produce. The banks of the river Etu are rocky
and rugged, but every available spot is cultivated. The
w^ater (except during floods) is remarkably clear,
and the bottom of stones and shingle. On the left bank
of the Yang-tze, and nearly opposite to the town of
Etu, a branch from the main road from Pekin comes
down to the river bank.

On my return to Ichang I found the boat progress-
ing satisfactorily ; but before giving a description of
how she was fitted up, I should say that, having heard
of the most unsettled state of the country about Chung-
king and its humid and unhealthy climate, I decided not
to take my wife and little ones up there as I had origin-
ally intended, but to send them all home. I therefore
arranged for their passage, saw all the packing done,
and regretfully saw them off for home on March 22.

The boat upon which I was to depend so much had
now better be more fully described. To commence
with the most important part after the hull, which was,.

DESCRIPTION OF BOAT 07

in luy opinion, the cabin. This was about sixteen feet
long by eight broad, with nearly seven feet head room.
Owing to the flat nature of the floor of tlie boat there
were no awkward triangular lockers or cupboards, but
the whole inside was as square as a room in a house
ashore, and was thus available to be made use of in
the most advantageous manner for shelves and lockers.
A doorway was fitted at the fore and after ends, with
a booby-hatch over each and steps leading down from
the deck (for tlie floor of the cabin was only four inches
from the flat bottom of the boat), a ventilator beino-
fitted above. The roof was slightly rounded and
covered with English sail-cloth well painted ; windows-
were fitted at the sides, to which were attached wooden
blinds. There was a gangway space of a foot on each
side of the cabin, forming a deck plank or waterway to
the gunwale. Just before and just abaft the cabin were
secured by lashings to the frame of the boat two
athwartships spars of about six inches in diameter, and
projecting a foot beyond either gunwale. Great care was
taken in their fitting and securing, as they play an im-
portant part in the tracking up-stream as well as being
a support for the liuloes or sculls, which are worked
on a small pin driven into their outer ends. The huloes
were about thirt}' feet long and made in two pieces,
the blade and the loom. The blade is a plank or

f2

C8 • HULOES

board about nine inches wide, and bound with iron
at the outer end to prevent splitting. The inner end
is narrower, and is joined to tlie loom by iron bolts and
hoops. A collar which has a loose hole for the pin to
work in is lashed on. As there were two spars there
was room for four liuloes ; but, unfortunately, on start-
ing I was only provided with two, and later on one of
these breaking when in a dangerous place, put the
boat in a perilous position. All boats should be pro-
vided with at least two spare huloes.

Just before the cabin the mast was stepped, and on
this there was fitted to set, when the wind was favourable,
a Chinese lug sail made of native cotton canvas. All
the fore part was decked in flush with the gunwale and
had two hatchways fitted. This fore hold was nearly
four feet deep, and was most useful for stowing cables
and stores in. In wet or cold weather also the crew
used to go down and sleep there, but in fine weather
they had a light bamboo frame to cover over the fore
part of the boat, and mats being thrown over this, it
formed quite sufiicient shelter. Across the bows of the
boat there was built a strong beam of hard wood
hooped with iron, and fitted with two thole-pins in the
centre for the bow sweep.

The Chinese builders in choosing a piece of wood
for this beam always give the preference to one that

^J.l.'QClS'^X

i^y

BOW SWEEP Gr>

has a crooked grain, saying that it is stronger. The
bow sweep that works on this beam is a spar suitable
to the size of the boat, with the thick end inboard,
and on to the thin end are secured by lashings, or bolts,
or both, two narrow but thick blades. The spar is
htted at the inboard end with beckets and heel ropes
according to its size. Mine was only about thirty feet
long ; but many of the large junks have them of nearly
sixty feet in length, and manned by about fortj'- men
or more. They are absolutely indispensable in the
navigation of the rapids, and are, as far as I am
aware, only in use in China. By their skilful use boats
may be turned quickly in the strongest current, and
although clumsy-looking, are perhaps the most useful
things in the boat when coming down-stream in a flood.
Abaft the cabin the boat w'as agaiii-" discked to the
counter, and under the deck were- two / lockers, one
for a store and the other for the :cpoking utensils of
the crew, which were very simple. The tiller nearly
touched the cabin door, and my skipper, though a very
worthy and good man, was so short that I was obliged
to have a special stool made for him to stand on, to
enable him to see over the roof of the cabin. On the
high counter was built the cook-house, where my pro-
visions were cooked, and in which the cook and my
boy slept. The whole of the boat was varnished with

70 COLOUB OF BOAT

the vegetable varnish before mentioned, which is univers-
ally used for this purpose in China. I had, however,
the cabin and topsides painted white in addition, as
I thought it would be cooler. This answered very well
from my point of view, but was a failure in another, as
will be seen later on.

71

CHAPTER VI

THROUGH THE GORGES OF THE YANG-TZE

Captain and crew of boat — Trackers — Stores taken — Start up the river —
Ta-tung Rapid — Life-boats — Wreck passed — Sin-tan Eapid — An
anxious night — Me-tan Gorge — Kwei — Yeh-tan Rapid — Pa-tiing-hsien
— Wild rose — Absence of birds — Wu-shan Gorge — Fung-sien Gorge —
Accident in a rapid — Striking scenery — Chinese coffins— Road mak-
ing— Brme springs — Quei-chow-fu — Examination of passports — Trade
of the place — Escort — Dog overboard — Bad rapid — Riverside villages
— Wan-hsien — Opportmiity to send letters — Orange trees — St.
George's Island — Lnng-chan.

The boat being now ready, my next consideration was
to get a captain and crew. The former I succeeded in
getting through the Commissioner of Customs, and he
stayed with me for two years, proving himself to be a
good man and very capable of taking charge of the
boat in the most dangerous places. To him I left prin-
cipally the selection of the crew, which consisted of
eiofht boatmen and eio-ht trackers. The last have
severely hard work going up-river, and dangerous
work too. Paths, perhaps a hundred feet above the
water and barely eighteen inches wide, are often all he
has to work upon, and in such places, if the boat should

72 CEEW OF BOAT

make a sudden outward sheer and lie cannot quickly
disengage himself from the tracking- rope by slipping
the toggle, which connects it to the tracking band on
the shoulder, he is very likely to be dragged over the
cliff. A sullen plunge, and in the river by which he
has made his livelihood he finds his grave. Bodies are
frequently seen floating about, but they are carefully
avoided l)y the natives. This crew, with an assistant
collector sent out from home, a German named Krichel-
dorfF, and my cook-interpreter and bo}^, made with
myself twenty-one hands on board — close packing for
such a small craft — but before going very far I was
oblio-ed to increase the number.

I now had the lockers and shelves in the cabin
well stocked with boxes of a suitable size for holding
such specimens as I hoped to obtain, and these, with
about seventy butterfly nets for distribution among the
local collectors I intended to engage, chemicals, medi-
cine, botanical drying paper, papers for Lepidoptera,
and tins for Coleoptera, took up a good deal of room,
and the remainder was taken up by tinned provisions,
photographic apparatus, clothing, and my guns and
ammunition. The firearms consisted of a 12- and
a 4-bore shot guns, a small collecting gun, and a Win-
chester repeating rifle. Bamboo tracking ropes of
great length and several sizes were coiled away in the

START FROM ICHANG 7&

hold or on the coniiter out of the way. Tliese are of
great strength, provided that no kinks are taken in
them, but with a short nip they snap at once. They are
m universal use on the river for tracking, and, owing to
the sharp edges of the bamboo, are somewhat dangerous
to use unless handled with great care. I had also on
board an anchor and a f-inch chain cable, which I had
purchased at Shanghai for use in case of emergency.

After having seen all ready, a start was made at 4.30
P.M. on March 26, with a fair wind upstream. Every-
thing, however, was not in its place, for one of the
crew was ashore. He came off hurriedly, seeing the
boat under way, and in getting out of the sampan fell
overboard, but was promptly picked up, with no
damage done beyond getting wet through. The steamer
Kiang-tung was at anchor in the river, and as we
passed her the captain saluted with a blast of the
steam whistle, the last sound of the sort we heard for
many months. After getting well away from the town,
I had the boat anchored for the night opposite the
mouth of the Unknown Eiver. This is a small stream,
and takes its name from the fact that none of the
European inhabitants of Ichang have as yet ascended it.
The Chinese always make a point of taking a short dis-
tance as the day's journey on making a start for a long
trip, and I was quite prepared for an early halt, only

74 LIFE -BOATS

taking care that I was far enouoli from the town to
prevent any of the crew or trackers returning there that
night.

The next morning a start was made at 4.45 a.m.,
and the trackers had to work for several hours. At
last a fair breeze sprung up, and we were able to proceed
under sail until arriving at a small village ninety li from
Ichang, where the boat was made fast for the night.
This place was reached at 5.30 p.m., and I had been
busy all day rearranging the various things in the cabin
and seeing that those articles which might be wanted
in a hurry were stowed in accessible places. On March
28 we were under way at 4.54 a.m. with a fair wind,
which, however, soon died away, and the trackers had
to be landed to tow as2jainst the stream. We were now
approaching the Ta-tung Eapid, where the rocks and
boulders are extremely dangerous. Here was one of the
life-boats whose duty it is to pick up all bodies floating
in the river, and to save life if possible. They get paid,
I believe, so much for each one brought on shore, whether
living or dead. They are usually manned by five men,
and are easily known as they are alwaj^s painted red.
The Government supplies them and their crew, and they
are stationed in the dangerous parts of the river. The
current was found to be very strong, and this, combined
with a head wind, compelled us to anchor for some

SIN-TAN RAPID 76

hours. Later on we managed to make a short advance,
but were obliged eventually to make fast to the bank
just below the rapid.

Making a start at 4.45 the next morning, it took
nearly three hours to get against the strong current to
the foot of the rapid. Here more trackers had to l)e
engaged, and it took fifteen to get the boat through.
I hoped to reach the Sin-tan Eapid during the day, as
there were no bad places to pass. The wreck of a large
house-boat was seen in the forenoon, she having come
to grief about three days previously.

Such wrecks are very common, and it is impossible
to make any estimate of the number of men drowned in
the river, but it must be very large. The thermometer
to-day registered 85°. The Sin-tan Eapid was reached
at 1.30 P.M., and I found that the boat would have to be
unloaded before the ascent was attempted, not on ac-
count of the shallowness of the river, but to make her
tow more easily against the current, which was very
violent, but with no actual fall that I could see. This
afternoon a junk was wrecked, but happily no lives
were lost. A sandstorm raged all day, and everything
in the boat was covered with very fine sand which
seemed to penetrate everywhere. Just before arriving
here one of my men cut his thumb severely through
carelessly handling a bamboo hawser. The muscles

7G ASCENT OF THE RAPID

were cat round down to tlie bone. I dressed it as well
as I could with lint and carbolic lotion, and kept him
on board in the hope it might heal. This, however, it
did not do so rapidly as I expected, and I had, in the
end, to land him and get another man in his place.

On March 30 commenced unloading the boat at
6 A.M., sending everj^thing by coolies to a shed built for
the purpose at the head of the rapid. The boat then
had to await her turn to be towed up, and this caused a
delay of eleven hours. There were thirty men on the
tow rope, and even then the progress was made by
inches. Though the rapid was only about 220 yards
lono- the ascent took till 5.30 p.m., so some idea mav be
formed of the violence of the current. As soon as the
top was reached the reloading commenced, and this
took till dark. My boat was the first owned by a
European that had made the ascent, and knowing from
former experience the feeling of the natives towards
foreigners, I took especial care in seeing her secured
for the night. Two anchors were laid out, to one of
which was secured the chain cable (a thing hardly ever
seen in native boats), and a watch was kept all night to
guard against treachery, for they would have had no
hesitation in cutting us adrift, if possible, and sending
us down the rapid to destruction. The sandstorm con-
tinued all day, and the river was at its lowest.

e R A R

'o« THE

VjNlVeRSlTY

CALIFOHHi^

YEH-TAN BAPID 77

On the 31st, after a most uneasy night, a start was
made at 7,30 a.m. It was a rainy morning, and the
trackers had hard work to get through the Me-tan
Gorge. The diffs liere are 150 feet high. Stopped at
Kwei, and here, to avoid hiring extra men so often to
help through the rapids, I engaged three more per-
manently. There are many bad places about here, and
at certain seasons, when the river is high, a very danger-
ous rapid, in which many lives are lost. Last year the
mail boat was wrecked, all the mails lost, and two men
drowned. There was no wind all day, and the trackers
had hard work.

Ajyril 1. — Started at 6 a.m. and found the current
very strong. At 9 a.m., after three hours' work, I found
that we had only made fifteen li. The Yeh-tan Eapid was
reached at three in the afternoon. It was not very bad
in the present state of the river, but is reported to be
dangerous at certain times. The current is always
strong. Half an hour afterwards another short rapid
was reached, and here the river was certainly narrower
than I had ever before seen it. Though the wind
was favourable, it took thirty men to tow the boat
up against the strong current. Pa-tung-hsien was
reached at 7.30 p.m. It is situated on the right bank
of the river, and was, by my captain's statement, 360
li from Ichang. Here the boat was made fast for the

78 WU-SHAN GOBGE

night. Tlie weather had l)eeu fine during the day ;
thermometer 80°.

On April 2 got under way at 5 a.m. The weather
was lovely, Ijut the wind light and baffling, causing
much hard work for the trackers and crew. A small
rapid was passed during the day, and a gorge entered
in which the boat was secured to the bank for the nio-ht.
On shore I found a fine variety of wild rose, the flower
being large and of a crimson colour. The scarcity of
birds was remarkable. It was certainly nesting time,
and they might be expected to be more in seclusion ;
1 )ut one rarely caught sight of a solitary specimen, with
the exception of the small white heron, which is plenti-
ful on the banks of the river. The Chinese do not
destroy or trap them to any extent, and they do not
appear to have many natural enemies.

On April 3 I got under way at 4.30 a.m. with a fair
wind, and proceeded through the Wu-shan Gorge. This
is the longest in the river, being twenty miles long. The
hills here are about 2,000 feet high in places on each
side, but breaking out here and there into more
open country, and the scenery very fine, the land
being cultivated where possible ; but the population is
sparse. The boat was made fast to the shore at the
head of this gorge for the night, being now 560 li from
Icliang and 1,400 from Chung-king. Several rapids

ACCIDENT IN RAPID 7D

were passed through during the day, none, however,
being of any importance.

The next day the start was made at 4.30 a.m. to ascend
the Fung-sien (wind-box) Gorge. Just before reaching
the gorge the river takes a sharp turn, and there is a
very awkward and dangerous rapid. Here the boat
nearly came to serious grief through the carelessness of
the loiohan or captain. He did not use a stout enough
tow rope or have enough trackers, the result being that
the boat hung in the rapid, and then the rope carried
away. A large junk was made fast to the bank, and
her crew were asked to assist us, but they would not
move a finger to help a foreigij- d^.yil out of a most
perilous situation. .. . .^ ■

The boat was driven back, into a whirlpool, and by
dint of hard work was huloed into a backwater and
then to the bank, after having been swept down a con-
siderable distance. This caused a vexatious delay, but
upon proper precautions being now taken, the rapid
was safely ascended and the gorge entered. It is very
winding, and the scenery particularly striking. The
mountains are high, and precipices are seen 2,000 feet
deep. There are but few landing-places, and the locality
is dark and gloomy. There are a number of Chinese
coffins laid about in cracks and crevices that appear to
be utterly inaccessible, and the wonder is how they were

80 QUEI-CHOW-FU

ever conveyed there. On the left bank a road has been
blasted on the face of the precipice for about four miles,
and is still in progress. Coolies maybe seen suspended
on the perpendicular face on plank scaffolds, drilling
holes for the explosives. This is dangerous work, and
I heard that many lives are lost.

The water is generally very deep and smooth, the
current being strong. There are several rapids, but
none of a dangerous character. At the head of the
gorge the river takes a bend to the southward, and the
banks break out very suddenly. There is a large sand-
bank here that is uncovered when the river is low,
and on which brine springs are found. This brine is
evaporated in iron vessels, and a considerable quantity
of salt is produced. Just above is Quei-chow-fii,
which was reached at 6 p.m., and is 665 li from
Ichang. It is a Le-kin station ; and as now I had
left the province of Hu-peh and was in Sze-chuen, the
Custom House officials came on board and made a
copy of my passport as the boat passed the town. I
landed a few men to get provisions for the crew, and
gave them orders to rejoin the boat further up the
river. I had no intention of stopping off the
place, as the men might get on shore, and then it
is very uncertain when they would come off. The
boat was made fast for the night just above the town.

HIGHLY CULTIVATED DISTRICT 81

This is a place of considerable importance, trading in
salt and coal. Large junks come down from the upper
parts of the river, but do not, as a rule, proceed lower
down than this. Here I was obliged to take two sol-
diers on board as a guard. They go by the name of
' runners ' among the Europeans, and are of little or no
use when travelling by boat. On the road they are of
great assistance in procuring lodgings. In the after-
noon, before reaching the town, my dog Toby, a
spaniel, jumped overboard, but could not land, and
was carried two miles down the stream before he was
picked up by a coolie whom I had sent down in a sam-
pan to his assistance. This caused some delay.

April 5. — Started as usual at 4.30 a.m., and there
being no wind the trackers had to go on shore. The
current was very strong, and only fourteen li were
got over during the day. The country passed through
w^as open and highly cultivated, cereals, tobacco, and
vegetables being largely grown.

April 6. — A welcome fair wind on starting, and at
9.30 came to a small rapid, which was safely got
through. The wind helped us all day, and in the
evening we got through a very bad rapid and then
made fast for the night, having done 138 li — a very
good run. Here I heard from the natives that there
was a very bad place ahead. There is so little water

G

«2 BIVEBSIDE VILLAGES

near the banks in the river at this time of the year
that it seems to be almost a series of rapids.

On April 7, the weather being bad, a start was not
made till 7 o'clock, and I fonnd three men missing,
they having gone across the river without my leave or
knowledge. The bad rapid I had heard of the night
before was soon reached, and the water was boiling ;
with fouT men at the helm, and the bow sweep in use,
it was almost impossible ^ to steer the boat, and had it
not been for a strong, fair wind I doubt if we should
have got through. The banks are precipitous, with
many sharp rocks and boulders, and altogether a dan-
gerous place. Cedars and pines grow sparingly about
among the rocks, and the scenery is fine, but dark and
gloomy.

Near any r^pid of importance a village is always
to be found, the inhabitants making their living by
tracking, and also by manufacturing and selling bamboo
rope. They inhabit baniboorframed huts so constructed
as to be easily moved, and always live close to the
water. When the river is low the huts are moved
■down as soon as the ground gets dry, and on its rising
they are shifted back again.

On April 8 left at daylight with a fair wind, but
not much of it. The vegetation seems to change about
here, and I noticed a sort of banyan tree growing.

WAN-HSIEN .83

This is not the Indian species, as it sends down no
adventitious roots from its branches, but is a hand-
some tree with fohage resembling laurel, and is very-
useful from the shade it affords.

All this part of Sze-chuen is very interesting, and is
highly cultivated, with a fair population, principally en-
gaged in farming. Anchored for the night just below
Wan-hsien, a town on the left bank. On the opposite
side are two conspicuous pagodas. The river here
takes a big bend to the S.S.W., and according to my
•estimate is about a mile wide. The town is half-way
between Icliang and Chung-king, and is a most pictur-
esque place.

At Wan-hsien an English missionary came on board,
and kindly offered to send any letters I might wish to
■dispatch down by the native post.

April 9. — Under way at daylight with a favour-
able but light wind, which soon died away. After
having made sixty li the boat was secured to the shore
opposite a small hamlet, no difficult places having been
passed during the day.

April 10. — A start was made at daylight as usual,
the day being fine, but no wind and a strong current
made hard work for the trackers. It was very hot
towards the middle of the day, and on landing I found
some interesting species of plants, which I had not

6 2

84 LUNG-CHAU

noticed as occurring lower down the river. These I
collected and dried for future identification. The air
was loaded with the perfume of orange blossoms, the
fruit being largely cultivated about here, and forming an
important article of commerce. The distance traversed
to-day was only fifty li, and in the evening the boat
was made fast just off" a village.

April 11. — Weather still lovely ; but as there was
no wind it was hard work for the trackers, especially as
the current was strong. The distance made was sixty
li, and the boat was secured for the evening at the north
end of what I believe to be the St. George's Island of
Captain Gill. The bed of the river here is very
rocky.

April 12. — Started against a strong current at
daylight. This was a very close, steamy day, the ther-
mometer being 80°, but the atmosphere oppressive.
Mr. Kricheldorff fell overboard, but was picked up
quickly, and suffered only from a thorough wetting.
Fifty li were made to-day, and the boat was secured for
the night off the village of Lung-chau, a small place
all round which poppies are cultivated for the produc-
tion of opium. This place is 600 li from Chung-
king.

85

CHAPTER VII

JOURXEY Ur THE RIYEK COXTINL'EU

Necessity of haste — Intricacy of channel — Pagodas — Gold washers — Fu-
chau — ' Weigeren ' boat — Meet Mr. George — Collecting larvaj and
Coleoptera — Ai'rive at Chmig-king — Visit Resident — A large and
important town — Change in crews — Disagreeable incident^Leave
Chimg-kmg — Fme scenei'y — Bamboos and llanioo trees — Heronries
— Vexatious delay — Cedars — Hostility at a small town — Poppies and
tobacco — We land but are obliged to return — Fiobbery on board —
Kise in river — Boat in dangei' — Man oveiboard — Lhu-chau in ruins —
Meet Mrs. Eiley — Ai'i'ive at Sui-fu — Beautiful place — Natives Mahom-
medan principally and well disposed to foreigners — Large trading
place — Upper Yang-tze — Leave for Kia-ting-fu — Fishing with cormo-
rants— Ancient caves — Chien-wei-hsien — Brine wells — Suicide of
soldiei' — Clni-ken-tan.

April 13. — A light breeze helped us at our usual
daylight start, and during the day I noticed the beauty
of the vegetation, which was of a sub-tropical character.
I often regretted that in such spots I could not make a
longer stay ; but knowing the importance of pushing on
as rapidly as possible, for my intention was to get as
far to the westward as I could before summer was too
far advanced, I was obliged to forego the pleasure, in
the hope that I might be able to make a stay on my
return journey at those places which seemed the richest

86 GOLD WASHING

in natural history treasures. At noon the wind
freshened and the poor trackers were somewhat re-
lieved. The weather was cloudy, and a run of ninety-
five 11 was made. The thermometer only showed 70°
to-day, and in the evening the boat was secured near
a small town about 505 li from Chung-king.

April 14. — The journey made to-day was much
the same as usual ; nothing of special note occurred^
with the exception of the intricacy of the channel, to get
safely through which I was obliged to engage a native
pilot, there being so many dangerous rocks in the
channel. Two pagodas were passed on the right bank
of the river, and one on the left. The boat w^as made
fast for the night, after having made a run of 100 li,
about two miles above a small town on the right bank,
the distance from Chung-king being now about 405 h.

Aj^ril 15. — A light wind favoured us to-day, and
eased the work of the trackers. The weather was
cloudy but fine ; thermometer 80°. There are no gorges
in this part of the river, the country being more level.
Flat sandbanks and shingle beds occur, and a good
many men are engaged in washing for gold, which
occurs rather more plentifully than lower down tlie-
river, but still in such small quantities as to make the
industry profitable only to a Chinaman. Heaps of
stones on the shingle banks formed by their washing

'WEIGEBEN' BOAT 87

operations are frequently seen. A run of sixty li was-
made to-day, and the distance from Chung-king is now
reduced to 345 li. The country is well cultivated
about here — cereals, pulse, tobacco, fruit, and poppies
being grown. The district is well populated, and the
inhabitants seem to be fairly well off.

April IG. — Started at daylight with a light favour-
able breeze, and passed Fu-chau at 4 p.m. Here the
Kliian river joins the Yang-tze-kiang, flowing down from
the province of Quei-chau, which is one of the poorest
and wildest in the Empire. Its rocky and rugged surface
admits of but httle cultivation, but it is probably rich
in minerals. The halt for the night was made twenty
li above Fu-chau.

On April 17 there was no wind at starting and a
strong current. Only thirty-five li were made, and it
rained in the evening.

April 18. — Heavy rain to-day. A head wind and
current so stronsr that the trackers were unable to make
way against it. At 4 p.m. the weather moderated, and,
a start was made. After proceeding slowly for half an
hour, I was surprised by hearing a cry from my men
of a ' weigeren ' boat — that is to say, a boat contain-,
ing an Enghsh man or men. On looking astern I saw
a smaU. boat flying a pecuhar flag, which was evidently
at first glance not Chinese. I stopped to allow it to-,

88 COLLECTING LABV^

overtake me, and on coming up found that it contained
a Mr. George, of Streathara, who was travelhng for a
mercantile firm down the river. Hearing that Chung-
king was about to be opened to Enghsh traders, he had
come uj) with the intention of being first in the field if
possible. At Ichang he had heard of my departure,
and had pushed on with all speed hoping to overtake
me, and we now travelled on in company. The ther-
mometer to-day was 80°.

April 19. — A start was made at daylight this
morning, and a beautiful country passed through, the
vegetation being very rich. I collected a number of
larvoe from the trunks of a species of poplar, and got a
splendid series. They, unfortunately for me, were of
the hairy species, and irritated the skin very much. I
applied ammonia with a good result, but did not get
much sleep at night. The worst of it was, that in
changing to pupas, all the hairs were shed and were
blown about the cabin, getting into the sheets and
every available spot, the consequence being that for
some weeks we were liable to be stung. I also got
some Coleoptera of the family Cicindela, an interesting
class of sand beetle.

April 20. — Left with a light fair wind in the morn-
.ing, and made fifty li, anchoring for the night forty li
from Chung-king, which place I hope to reach to-

ARRIVAL AT CHUNG-KING 89

morrow. Tlie country now is j^etting more hilly, but
not very interesting*. Very few trees are seen. The
thermometer 79° to-day, and rain fell in the evening.

Apinl 21. — Arrived at Chung-king at noon. Took
chairs on landing, as it was not wise for Europeans to
walk in the streets at that time. A long and uncom-
fortable journey, taking nearly three quarters of an
hour, principally up flights of steps, brought us to the
house of Mr. Cockburn, the Ikitish Resident, who had
passed nearly three years in this disagreeable place.

This is a very large and important city, being the
principal centre for the Yunnan and Sze-chuen trade,
many hundreds of junks trading from here as far down
as Ichang and Sha-shih. It is a great place also for the
distribution of foreign manufactured goods throughout
these provinces.

At Chung-king a considerable change was made in
my crew. I had among them some men who had been
with me to Chang-3^ang, and whom I had trained as col-
lectors. These I kept, as the}^ would be again very
useful, but the remainder, with the exception of the
lowban, were discharged, and in their places men from
Chung-king were engaged, as they were better ac-
quainted with the upper parts of the river. These
signed an agreement to take the boat to Kia-ting-fu in
eighteen days, and in getting men, it is always neces-

90 DEPAETUEE FEOM CHUNG-KING

sary to have such a document prepared and sii>ned by
them, as they will be nearly sure to fail in their duty
if merely verbally engaged.

A very disagreeable incident occurred here. I had
offered one of my men a small sum each for the eggs
of the white heron, and upon his bringing me a dozen
I paid him what I had agreed. This did not suit him,
and because I refused to be imposed upon, he threw the
cash I had given him in my face. I was utterly power-
less to retaliate in the slightest manner, as it would have
caused a disturbance among the many boats close by,
and probably my boat would have been looted and de-
stroyed.

On April 24 I left Chung-king at 2 p.m., accom-
panied by Mr, Cockburn and Mr. George. This was an
intensely hot day, the thermometer being at 100° in
the boat. A short journey only of twenty-five li was
made, when the boat was secured for the night.

April 25. — Started at 4.30 a.m. After having gone
about four miles, Messrs. Cockburn and George left me
to return to Chung-king in a sampan. They were the
last Europeans seen by me, with the exception of my
assistant and Mrs. Eiley, until I arrived at Sui-fu, the
town at the junction of the Min Eiver with the Yang-
tze-kiang. A little cooler to-day, the thermometer at
90° ; and fair progress made, ninety li.

LLAMOO TUBES 91

April 2G. — Left at daylight ; the weather very fine
hut hot, and the scenery beautiful, the country being
broken into ravines and valleys with lovely vegetation.
No mountains are seen yet. Several villages were
passed during the day, and the houses composing them
seemed to l)e of better construction than those passed
lower down. The boat was made fast to the bank for
the ni<>ht off a hamlet 150 li from Chuno-kinsf.

Ajrril 27. — Started at daylight, and at 8 a.m.
passed a walled city on the left bank with a pagoda on
the other side of the river nearly opposite. The
scenery very fine about here. Clumps of graceful
bamboos are mixed with small plantations of the
Uamoo, which is a very beautiful tree, having dark
green foliage, a grey bark, and a tall but slender habit
of growth. Though not growing to any great size, the
wood is thought much of by the Chinese carpenter for
small articles of furniture, boxes, &c., and it has a
fragrant odour. The farmhouses are general^ con-
structed under its shade, and it is used by the white
heron, so common on the river, as a nesting-place.
These birds have a similar habit to the common heron
of this country, and form large heronries, the presence
of which are thought by the Chinese to bring luck on
the ground under which they are found.

A vexatious delay occurred now, two of the Chung-

02 DISAFFECTION OF CBEW

king men were reported to ])e sick, and all the re-
mainder wanted to return to take them back. Now
this would have caused a serious delay, and besides,
have put me to a considerable loss, for they liad all
been paid half their wages to Kia-ting-fu. My lowban,
however, here showed himself to be captain of the
boat by deeds and not in name only, for after some con-
siderable talk he managed to fasten upon the originator
of the trouble, and seizing him by the pigtail, he gave
him a sound thrashing with a bamboo, which at once
cured him of his sickness and rendered him fit for work
again. This was, no doubt, a rather dangerous method
of governing the crew in a district so far from any hope
of help in case of downright mutiny, but it answered, I
am glad to say, perfectly, and I had no furtlier trouble
with the men on this score.

The character of the vegetation changed to-day, and
many trees of the cedar species were seen, together with
the sweet chestnut. Eighty li were made, and the
weather was slightly cooler ; thermometer 8-3°.

April 28. — Made a start at dawn as usual, and
during the day a small town was passed, from which
crowds of people came down to the Ijanks and stoned
the boat, crying out, ' Kill the foreign devils.'

Many stones pitched on board, but luckily no
serious damage was done. This was the first instance

BOBBERY FROM BOAT 93

of my having received anything but civihty from the
inhabitants of Sze-chuen, except at tlie town of Chung-
king. Enormous fields of poppies are passed through
about here, wliich are grown for the production of
opium. Tobacco is also largely grown, and of two
sorts. The boat was anchored for the night at a small
place called Lung-chi, after having made eighty li
during the day. The atmosphere was very oppressive
during the night and I fully expected a thunderstorm,
but none came. These are frequent, and seem to follow
the course of the river to a great extent.

April 29. — Started at dawn with a fair wind which
soon headed us, and after having made twenty-four li,
we were obliged to anchor for two hours. On proceed-
ing, we passed through two rapids, one being rather
bad, and in the afternoon heavy rain came down.

On anclioring I went ashore with Mr. Kricheldorff
to search for larva3, or what else we might chance to
find, but the threatening attitude of the mob soon forced
us to retire to the boat without having found anything
to speak of. The progress made to-day was sixty li.

April 30 — Left at daylight, and soon after the
start found that a thief had been on board during the
night. Some of the lowban's things were taken, and also
some of Mr. Kricheldorff 's. These latter had been
hooked off fj-om pegs, through a window on the opposite

M DANGEROUS RAPID

side of the cabin, this being the only possible means by
which they could have been abstracted. During the
night I had been awakened by hearing the dog growl,
but noticing no further sound went to sleep again. These
l:)oat-thieves are fairly common on the river, and usuall}^
are most expert swimmers and divers. If they are dis-
covered, they go overboard at once, and being quite
unencumbered with clothing, are able to make the
best use of their proficiency in the water. The low-
ban got some of his things on going back to the village,
but none of Mr, KricheldorfF's were recovered. A
pagoda was passed during the day, near which was a
very bad rapid, one of two we had to ascend. The
river is rising and much discoloured, this being pro-
bably caused by heavy rain to the westward, as from
all I have heard it is yet much too early for the general
rise caused by the melting of the snow.

May 1. — A rise of from 6 to 8 feet had taken
place in the river during the night. On starting, the
boat was taken over to the other side, and on looking
out I found her already in a rapid, and in a most dan-
gerous place. Before many minutes we were on a rock
forming part of a ledge jutting out into the river. Just
before striking it, one of my strongest men fell over-
board through the ironshod bamboo pole, which he was
trying to fend off with, slipping on the face of the

TREACHEROUS TRACKERS 95

«toiie. In a moment lie was carried f;ir astern. He
was a good swimmer, and after half an honr's struggle
managed to reach the shore — a miraculons escape.
Many sampans were a])OUt, but not one would put ofl
to render him the slightest assistance. There were
fifty-two trackers on the tow rope besides my own men,
and their deliberate refusal to exert themselves was the
<*ause of the boat getting into this perilous position. I
have no doubt it was a plot among them to wreck her,
either from ill-feeling or from the hope of being able to
steal the wreckage. After half an hour the current
took us off, having swept the boat clear, and then after
getting outside again, the ascent was safely made. My
men now landed, and though they were in such small
numbers, attacked the natives and inflicted a severe
chastisement, not, however, without receiving some
heavy blows in return. These trackers, I should men-
tion, were not paid a single cash. I went down to the
place where the man was who had fallen overboard,
taking some whisky with me. I found him rather
weak and exhausted, but he returned on board with me,
and was all right the next day. Unless he had been
such a powerful man he must have been drowned.

Wliile the boat was fast on the rock, the body of a
man was washed down the river, a poor tracker, I
should say, for he had what I took to be a tracking-

96 PASS LU-CHAU

belt round him. I called the lowban's attention to it,
but he refused to look at the body. The boat was an-
chored off a small villaiye at the end of this exciting-
day, after having made sixty-four li.

May 2. — Started at daylight with a slight breeze :
soon after I went on shore with Mr. Kricheldorff. The
scenery here is very beautiful, there being many of the
groves of llamoo trees mentioned before. To-day the
city of Lu-chau was passed and was a sad sight, as
twenty days ago two-thirds of the city had been burnt,
and now presented a dismal spectacle of bare and
blackened walls. Official assistance had to be rendered
to save many of the inhabitants from starvation. It
was a city of perhaps 100,000 inhabitants, situated on
the left bank of the Yang-tze, just above the junction of
the Choong Eiver.

May 3. — After proceeding about ten li to-day, a
junk was met, with a Mrs Eiley, the widow of a mis-
sionary, and her three children on board. She was
travelling down from Cheng-tu, and had had some
European^ with her as far as Sui-fu, but was now by
herself, and on the way to Ichang. It w^as cooler
to-day, the thermometer being at 70°, and fifty li
were made.

May 4. — Nothing of note occurred to-day, except
that I noticed a large species of bamboo which more

SUI-FU 97

resembled the tropical types. It rained hard all day
and seventy-five li were made.

May 5. — ^Beautiful scenery was passed through
to-day, the country being undulating. At mid-day a
small city was passed, of a difierent and more graceful
style of architecture than those seen below.

On May 6 a distance of sixty li was made, and
Sui-fu was reached on the following day at 8.30 a.m.
This is the Soo-Chau of Blakiston, and is situated on
the right bank of the Min Eiver at its confluence with
the Yang-tze. It is built on high ground, and trees
growing from the banks of the river up to the city waUs
make it a strikingly beautiful place, the waters of the
two rivers washing the base of the eminence on which
it stands. The population is composed largely of
Mahommedans, and they are particularly civil to
Europeans. The town is very clean, with good shops,
and there is a special wharf for the trade with Yunnan,
which is large, the border of the province being within
a comparatively short distance. Here, among other
things, may be seen bales of the skins of wild beasts,
such as bears, leopards, tigers, deer, badgers, and
wolves.

I had no trouble here with my passport, and met
two missionaries, Messrs. Wellwood and Owen, on a
visit from Cheng-tu, from which town they had accom-

H

98 PING- SHAN

panied Mrs. Eiley on lier journey down the river. The
population of the town is considerable, there being
64,000 registered houses. There is a very picturesque
temple on the opposite bank of the Min Eiver, built in a
grove of trees. A very bad rapid was reported to exist
just above the town, l)ut from what I heard, I hoped
to reach Kia-ting-fu in seven days.

At no considerable distance up the Yang-tze above
Sui-fu is Ping-shan, beyond which I was informed the
river is not considered to be navigable. Very deep and
narrow gorges are found, and the rapids are impassable.
Small local boats and sampans ply between them, but
nothing except timber rafts attempt to pass down.
Very little is known about this part of the river, and the
navigation of these rafts is considered to be so dangerous
that it is a regular part of the contract for the crews to
be provided with their coffins. Ping-shan is also an
outpost of the Imperial troops, who have constant
trouble with the Lolos.

On May 8 a start was made from Sui-fu, the boat
being towed by seventy coolies through the long rapid
just above the town. The towing path was on the left
bank, and I saw for the first time fishing cormorants
used. Unfortunately they were some distance away,
but they were perfectly tame and well under command,
being used from long bamboo rafts, each raft having

ANCIENT DWELLING-PLACES 99

about six birds. I went on shore durinn- the day and
saw some particularly interesting caves cut in the red
sandstone. In many of these Chinese coffins had been
deposited, and in one, where the coffin had been placed
near the mouth, it was nearly covered with the roots of
a tree which were as large round as a man's body.
These caves were made for dwellings by a race which
inhabited the country before the Chinese drove them
out, and are probably very ancient. Some are of con-
siderable extent, and the marks of the gouge or tool
with wliicli the inside was finished may still be seen
in most of them. Many are on the faces of precipices
some distance up, and could only be reached by
ladders laid up to landing-places. They appear to be
dry and have couches or bed places, still to be seen,
cut in the sandstone.

3Iay 9. — The waters still very strong, and plenty
of trackers required. After travelling ninety li the
boat was made fast ofi" a village where there was an
iron-foundry for casting pans or boilers for use at the
brine wells further up the river.

May 10. — Hard work for the trackers against the
strong current. The sail is never used in these upper
parts of the river though the mast is kept stepped, as it
is often necessary to have the towing rope from the mast-
head. The vegetation is much varied here, and in the

H 2

100 SUICIDE OF SOLDIER

cultivated ground, cereals, tobacco, and poppies may be
seen. Peaches and apricots are also grown, but these
are always gathered and eaten green by the Chinese,
Europeans seldom getting an opportunity of procuring
them ripe.

May 11. — Sixty li were made to-day against a
strong current as usual, but no rapids were passed.
The scener}' was beautiful and the character of the
country changing, becoming more mountainous. The
boat was secured off Chien-wei-hsien.

May 12. — The scenery became more wild to-day,,
and the country was less cultivated. A long and bad
rapid called Ohayi-tai was passed through. It took
four hours' hard work, and is, at the present state
of the river, a dangerous place. Just above the river
divides and an island is formed.

May 13. — Passed through lovely scenery to-day,
but still with little cultivated ground. The chief
industry here is the production of salt by boiling brine,,
which is found in wells, many of which are sunk to a
considerable depth, most being on the left bank of the
river. To-day I had the misfortune to lose one of the
soldiers sent as a guard from Quei-chow-fu. They were
constantly in the habit, when a short distance from a
town, of landing and completing the journey on foot^
rejoining me on arrival. Consequently their absence

CHU-KEN-TAN 101

from the boat was thouo-ht nothing of; but this time
the only news I had of the missing man was that he
had been fomid quite dead, with no marks of violence,
in a small pool by the river, and in which tliere was
between two and three feet of water only. From what
I heard, and from the circumstances under which the
body was found, I am of the opinion that it was a case
of suicide, but for what reason I am unable to con-
jecture. No inquiry was made into the matter, and I
heard nothing further about it. The boat was secured
for the night off the town of Chu-ken-tan, whicli is con-
sidered to be the centre of the salt trade. The country
about this place is much more thickly populated than
the districts I have lately passed through. I was now
only forty-five li from Kia-ting-fu.

102

CHAPTER VIII

KTA-TING-FU TO WA-SHAN

Arrival at Kia-ting-fu — Attack by students — Stone throwing — Retreat to
a safe position — Message from Tao-tai — Am prisoner in boat — Prepare
for overland journey — Assistance from missionaries — Instructions to
lowban — Adopt Chinese dress — Colossal image — Visit from Tao-tai —
Reports about boat — Explanations — Difficulty as to route— Leave for
Wa-shan — Su-chi — Dendrobium seen — Omei-hsien — Wax insect, how
made use of — Yang-tsun — Hsin-chang — Robbers outside inn — Lolo
houses — Dangerous paths — ' Times ' of 1877 at Lulu-ping — Tung
River — Antelopes at Chin-kou-ho — Arrive at Ta-tien-chih — Pere
Martin — Wild animals and birds in district — Fruits and flowers —
Trip to base of Wa-shan — View — Icicles — Tributary Lolos — Collec-
tions— Arrival of mail — Description of Mount Wa.

May 14. — After a very rainy night a start was made
early in the morning, tracking as usual against a strong
current. Kia-ting-fu was reached at 3.30 p.m., and the
boat made fast close to the city. Before long, however,
a shower of stones astonished us, and the crew set to
work to get the boat under way again in the hope of
getting to a safer place. This was a matter of no slight
danger, and several of my men were injured by the
stones, many of which, as large as big apples, fell into the
boat. The men, however, stuck to their work, and the
boat drifting down the river was followed by the^apidly

HOSTILITIES OF STUDENTS lOS

increasing mob who got out on a spit of shingle and con-
tinued the stone throwing. The water was very shallow
and the boat touched several times but was happily
got off again, for if she had become fixed we should
possibly all have been either severely hurt or massacred.
At last we got beyond their reach, and when at a safe
distance away, the boat was secured. My passport was
examined and the Tao-tai sent a message requesting me
not to approach the town, as the triennial examinations
were going on, and ten thousand students had come in
for examination. I also heard that the two resident
missionaries had left the town, as it was nearly always
in a disturbed state at such a time.

I was, however, a prisoner in my boat until such
time as the students might disperse, their work being
over, but I was able to make preparations for the over-
land journey to Wa-shan, the river no longer being of
service to me in the direction I wished to proceed, by
looking over the various things I wished to take, and
getting them packed into loads for coolies and weighing
them. In this I was assisted by Messrs. Eirie and Vale
of the China inland mission, to whom I had sent a coolie
informing them of my arrival. It is essential that the
loads should be as nearly equal in weight as possible,
or there is nearly sure to be discontent among the
carriers.

104 ARBANGEMENTS FOR LEAVING BOAT

I had with me a man from Chung-king, engaged at
the recommendation of the Consul, who gave him the
character of being a rehable fellow, and to him fell the
duty of going to the coolie hong and sending the
manager to me. With him I entered into the usual
agreement as to price, he being responsible for the
honesty of the coolies he was to provide and also for
the head men over them. The remainder of the Chunsf-
king men were discharged and sent home, this leaving
me with five men and the captain. Three of these were
competent collectors, having been under my tuition at
Chang-yang, and they now had orders to make collec-
tions in the neighbourhood, and especially at the place
where I intended to leave the boat, which was on the
opposite bank to, and about a mile below, the city, close
to a hill covered with pine trees beneath the shade of
which several temples had been built, one of which
contained a great many gilt images. The lowban was
left in charge of the boat, a place of responsibility, as
on the first indications of a flood he had to take the
boat to the other side and have her secured in a back-
water. He also had orders to scrape the boat, as I found
that the white colour she was painted attracted a great
deal of attention, and then varnish her in the same way
that all the native boats are done.

The floods here are no trifles, and the level of the

COLOSSAL IMAGE 105

river may perhaps rise many feet in a night, the only
indications being a shght discolouration a few hours
before. They are occasioned by the melting of the
snow in the mountains.

Mr. KricheldorfT and I now had our heads shaved,
and got into Chinese clothes, including an artificial tail
which was secured inside the cap. These we found to
be very cool and comfortable, but the chief advantage
we gained was, that when so dressed, little or no atten-
tion was paid to us by the mob.

I was unable to visit the town at all on this occasion
for the reason stated before, and am therefore unable to
say anything about it. On the opposite side of the
river there is a colossal image cut out of the red sand-
stone. It is seated, with the hands on the knees, and
must be at least 150 feet high. The head is overgrown
with creepers, and small trees have taken root and are
growing. These will, in course of time, utterly destroy
the work, but as yet the outline can be distinctly
traced.

Two days before I intended to leave, the Tao-tai
■came down with his stafi of about fifteen attendants,
-all most richly dressed, himself in particular wearing a
navy blue satin tunic, covered with the most beautiful
•embroidery in different coloured silks. There was not
room for all, but he came on board and informed me

106 VISIT FROM TAO-TAI

that it was reported that I had an infernal machine, and
that my intention was to destroy the city. I tried to
assure him that such was not the case, and eventually
succeeded in convincing him that my object was only
the collecting of objects interesting to naturalists, such
as birds, butterflies, &c. He could not or would not
understand, and asked what good could they be, and
what was I going to do with them. I said that I had
a passport for the province and intended to go to Wa-
shan for the purpose, when after I had made such col-
lections as I could, they would be sent home to people
who were greatly interested in such things, and who
would highly appreciate them.

He then appeared to be to a certain extent satisfied,
but said he could not give me a guard to Wa-shan, or
allow me to proceed there, and from what I could
gather he wished me to go in the direction of Cheng-tu.
This I refused to assent to, and said that my destina-
tion was Wa-shan, and that I intended to go there
whether I had his permission or not, as I had a perfect
right to travel in any part of Sze-chuen. After some
further conversation he left, apparently not in a good
temper. My object, however, was gained, for just
before I left, he sent a guard of two men to accompany
me as far as Omei-hsien, where they would be relieved
and fresh ones sent on. I found out that his reluctance

START FOB WA-SHAN 107

to allow me to travel by the route I had chosen arose
from the fact that it passed close to the frontier of the
Lolos, who are an independent tribe, or rather race,
with whom the Chinese Government are constantly in
a state of war, and whom they had never been able to
subdue. He feared that in one of the raids which they
frequently make I might be taken prisoner, and then
he would be held responsible.

On May 19, having got thirty coolies for my loads,
a start was made at 10 a.m. for Wa-shan, where I in-
tended to stay the whole of the summer, and return to
the boat in the autumn, run down the river to Ichang
and send my collections home. Besides the coolies, I
had Mr. Kricheldorff, the two soldiers as a guard, and
an interpreter with me. It was a soaking wet day, and
my halting-place, a small market town called Su-chi,
was reached at 4 p.m. The footpaths are narrow and
the country passed through of a red sandstone forma-
tion. Four branches of rivers were crossed, and this
caused some delay. I found an indifferent inn and
was able to purchase some eggs, and felt a sense of
relief now that Kia-tiui:f-fu, where I was forced to
remain in my boat, was left behind.

May 20. — Left Su-chi at 6.30, passing through a
lovely country reminding me of Hampshire. It is very
fertile, and water wheels of large diameter, fitted with

108 MOUNT 0M:^I

bamboo cups, are used for irrigating. During the day
I saw a large clump of Dendrohium nohile in bloom,
growing about ten feet from the ground on a species of
ash tree. I reached Omei-hsien in the evening, and here
my passport was copied. The guard was changed also,
two fresh soldiers being sent from the Yamen. Mount
Omei, 11,100 feet high, is twenty ii from here and is a
magnificent solitary peak. I could not ascend it on
this journey, but intend to do so when I return.

May 21. — The country is still lovely; weather
cloudy. Chinese coolies were passed carrj'ing the
eggs of the wax insect to the eastward.

These curious insects, which are a species of cocctis,
are bred on one kind of tree, but are transported
about 200 miles to produce the wax, which they do
upon a totally different species of tree to that upon
which they are bred.

They are produced principally in the vaUey of the
Anning river, a tributary of the Ya-lung, and I
gathered from inquiries that the eggs appear in large
numbers in the month of March upon the branches of
the large-leaved privet (Ligustrum lucidum), being en-
closed in small pear-shaped excrescences or scales.

The scales are gathered at the end of April, and
made up in paper packets weighing about 16 oz. each.
About sixty of these form a coolie's load, and during

WAX INSECTS 10&

transit great care is taken of them, the coolie travelling
only l)y night or on dull days, as the sunlight matures
the contents of the scales too rapidly. At the resting
places the loads are unpacked, and the packets spread
thinly in cool and shady places. Most of the coolies
travel by way of Fulin, at which place they cross the
Tung River, but I was informed that some make a
more direct route by crossing the country of the inde-
pendent Lolos, who permit them to do so on payment
of duty.

They reach Kia-ting-fu about the beginning of May,,
when the small packets are undone and from twenty to
thirty scales are enclosed in a leaf of the wood oil tree
{Aleurites cor data) in which some rough holes are
made to allow of the escape of the insects and also
to pass pieces of rice straw through, by means of which
it is attached to the branch of the tree upon which
the wax is produced. This is a species of ash [Fraxinus
chinensis), which is grown, in a pollard form, in great
quantities round the edges of the rice fields, and up'
to the foot of the mountains in the district around
Kia-ting-fu.

In fine weather the insects soon creep out of the
scales and up the branches on to the twigs, on the under
side of which the wax soon begins to appear. This
gradually increases, coating the twig or branch all over,.

110 LUNG-CHI

and in about a hundred days has attained a thickness
of perhaps a quarter of an inch.

The branches are then lopped off, and as much as
possible of the wax is carefully scraped off and thrown
into boiling water, from which it is skimmed as it rises
to the surface. This is the best wax. The branches
and twigs are then thrown into the pot, but the wax
melted from them is darker and inferior.

It is used for making candles or coating those made
from inferior substance, and for giving a polish to wood-
work, &c.

Yang-tsun was reached at 4 r.M. and a halt made
for the night, having travelled seventy li.

May 22. — Started at 6.30, and, travelling through a
very fertile valley, the small village of Lung-chi was
reached at 9.30. From here the road ascends, and
Hsin-chang was reached in the afternoon. I had a very
bad room in the inn, but was very tired and had to put
up w^itli it. It was between two cesspools.

The village inns are generally built of mud and in
the form of a square, with rooms built facing inwards
from the outside wall. In the centre is a court which
is sometimes paved, and in the middle of the court is
generally a depression or hole which is the receptacle
for all sorts of filth. As a rule the inns are dirty in the
extreme, especially when the village is not on a high

LULU-PING 111

road, and sometimes, but rarely, a room is found in
tliem better and cleaner than the rest, probably reserved
for an official wlien travelling. During the night a cry
of thieves was raised, and about a dozen were seen out-
side the gates. I had twenty-two men with me, the
remainder being at another inn, and no attack was made.
They left as the day was breaking, after having stayed
for nearly five hours. I was glad to find no reinforce-
ments come up, and had an anxious time, having a
good deal of silver with me, a fact they were probably
aware of.

May 23. — Left at 7 a.^j. and crossed a tributary
of the Tung Eiver at 9 o'clock, travelling through a very
wild and rugged region. Lolo houses could be seen on
the other side of the valley of the Tung Eiver. These
houses can be easily distinguished from those of the
Chinese, being built of stone instead of mud, and having
flat roofs, small windows, and watch towers. The path
now is very narrow and dangerous ; a sUp might send
one rolling down hundreds of feet.

After a tiring day got to Lulu-ping at 4 p.m. This
place is at an elevation of 4,250 feet. I found the land-
lord of the inn very civil. He showed me a part of the
weekly 'Times' of November 23, 1877, containing a
report of part of the celebrated trial of Benson and
others. This newspaper had been left behind by !Mr.

112 TUNG BIVEB

Baber on liis way to Wa-slian eleven years ago. The-
landlord also informed me that no European had passed
since. During the day, which was very wet, I saw
some feathers of the Amherst pheasant lying about on
the path.

May 24. — The main stream of the Tung was struck
to-day. The road, or rather path, was dreadful, being
very narrow, and winding about on deep declivities,
often with a precipice on one side where a fall would
be fatal, and barely room to crawl along in single
file.

At places the Tung might be seen tearing along its
rocky bed hundreds of feet below. This is the wildest
region I have yet been in, and the river forms practi-
cally the boundary between the Chinese and the Lolos.
I arrived at Chin-kou-ho at o p.m. This village is
situated in a ravine, and has a roaring torrent runnifig-
beside it, the opposite bank of the stream being formed
by a precipice. Found a ver}- bad inn here, and had a
room given me over a cesspool. Finding the stench
unbearable, I made an exchange with the soldiers sent
from the Yamen, they not appearing to object in the
slightest. During the day I found several interesting
species of Lepidoptera, and from what I could judge
this hot, steamy gorge should prove a good spot for
collecting, and I shall note it as a station for some of

MEET PPAIE MARTIN 11»

my men b\' and by. At about 4 p.m. T saw from the-
window of my room several antelopes on a narrow
ledge of the precipice, and hardly twenty yards away.
My rifle was unfortunately with the coolies in the other
inn, but I immediately hurried after it, and succeeded
in getting a shot which secured one. This caused great
excitement in the village, and two men swam across to
fetch it. It was very lucky, and gave us a supply of
meat for a couple of days, making a most agreeable
change in our diet from the everlasting rice, Indian cora
cakes and eggs, with sometimes, but not often, a fowl.

3Iay 25. — ^Left at 6 a.m. The road led to the
east of a spur, and was partly on the bank of a tribu-
tary of the Tung Eiver, through the villages of Nan-mu-
yuan and Li-mien-tien, and took me to Kuei-hua-chang,.
where I stayed the night, being now" only fifteen li
from my destination at Ta-tien-chih. The weather was-
cloudy, and a mountainous region was passed through
with very trying paths.

May 26. — ^Left at 7 a.m., and arrived at Ta-tien-
chih at 11. Here I found Pere Joseph Martin on a
visit to his converts, his headquarters being at Huang-
mu-chang about seventy li further on. He had not seen
a European since Baber, eleven years ago, and was kind
enough to lend me the old mission house to live in. I
appreciated this very much, as it was greatly superior

I

114 MOUNT WA

to any other house in the village, and very comfortable.
This devoted man has lived in the neighbourhood for
many years, and has no intention of ever returning to
Europe. He has made many converts, and is much
beloved by them. There is a good chapel at Iluang-
mu-chang, and when he is visiting outlying districts
he holds services in the houses of the natives. I noticed
for the first time some joss houses that had been allowed
to fall to ruins.

As soon as my things had been got into the house,
I paid off and dismissed the coolies, keeping only four
with me, as I intended to remain here all the summer.

I should mention that the mission house, the use of
which was so kindly granted me, was situated on the
side of a hill, and was facing Mount Wa, which towered
6,000 feet above us.

The day after my arrival I started to see what could
be done in the way of collecting, and ascending the
slopes of a hill opposite, a spur from the mountain,
I got into a terribly bad road, very stony and preci-
pitous, and much overgrown with jungle in places.
Old watercourses had to be traversed. I found many
interesting plants, which I collected to be dried, but
came to the conclusion that it was too early and cold
yet for butterflies. It was bad getting up, but much
worse getting down.

^ or THt

^mVERStTY

Sa>

ANIMALS AND BIRDS 115

The country appears to be thinly inhabited, and I
noticed a change in the headgear worn, for liere the
hat, instead of being small, is made of two thicknesses
of heavy felt, the inside being of a light colour and the
outer black, or nearly so, the brim being much turned
up. I found that this shape is peculiar to Western
China and Eastern Tibet, where it is exclusively worn.
Indian corn is grown and also potatoes, which have
been introduced by the French missionaries. There is
not, however, much cultivated ground, the country
generally being thickly wooded, the surface rugged,
and in places large, steep, detached hills, with sides
partly precipitous, are found. The long and graceful
bamboo is not seen, its place being taken by a shorter
and more scrubby variety; I was told that tigers,
leopards, bears, and antelope abounded, and also that
the wild ox, which I suppose to be the Budorcas of
Pere David, is found on the slopes at the base of Mount
Wa. The only part of one of these that I was fortunate
enough to see was a piece of the hide. They are
reputed to be very active and fierce, and are hunted in
the winter by the Lolos for the sake of their flesh,
which makes good beef. They are of a grey colour,
with horns large and spreading, meeting at tlie base
and turned back at the point. The tragopan is fairly
plentiful, and the beautiful Amherst pheasant is common.

116 CLIMATE AT TA-TIEN-CHIH

Two pairs of these were brought to me ahve, having
been snared by the leg, and I purchased them for 1,000'
cash, or about three shiUings. There are also two
species of pigeons resembling the blue rock, and living
among the cliffs. Of the smaller species I shot several
for food, but the larger variety was much more wild
and difficult to get near. The district appears to be
rich in botanical treasures. Quantities of fine wild
strawberries were brought in by the boys at times ; so-
many, in fact, that my cook made jam of them. Two-
sorts of raspberries and gooseberries are also found
growing wild, and were often brought to the mission
house. Very beautiful wild roses grew, the most
remarkable being with a dark red bloom.

Towards the end of May the weather was very
changeable, with a good deal of rain, and sometimes it
was very cold, much the same sort of climate as I found
at Chang-yang at the same time last year. The four
seasons are more clearly marked than in the lower
parts of China.

June 10 being a fine warm day, almost the first
that we had had, I ascended the first base, if I may so
call it, of Mount Wa, and on proceeding to examine its
southern slopes I found them covered with virgin forest.
The weather had been cold, and no butterflies to speak
of were seen ; it was too early for them. It being a

TRIBUTABY LOLOS 117

•clear day, the great Snowy Mountains above Ta-tsien-
lu could be plainly seen to the north-west. They are
eighty miles away as the crow flies, and the journey
there takes eiaht or nine days from Ta-tien-chih. Far
up the mountain in the crevices and hanging from
projections on the rocks, huge icicles could be seen
with the aid of a glass. These, it is no exaggeration to
say, were in many cases as large as a church steeple,
and when they fall they bring down tons of earth and
rock with them, leaving huge semicircular cavities in
the places from which they have been suspended.

On June 15 some Lolos paid us a visit. These were
not the independent but tributary or subject Lolos, and
are allowed to travel and work in China on the borders
of their own country. They are not allowed to wear
the horn, the distinctive mark of a true Lolo, and
which is formed by the hair l^eing knotted above the
forehead, and then wrapped in a cloth, to form a pro-
jection some inches in length, but had on small flat
Chinese caps. They are very difierent in appearance
from the Chinese, and evidently a distinct race. Their
height is about the average, and they are strong, active,
wiry, and splendid mountaineers. A few carried
matchlocks, the remainder spears about ten feet long,
and they had with them a pack of hounds, miserable-
looking specimens. They told me that they hunted the

118 SEND FOR MAILS

wild cattle, and tliat in the neig'hbourhood were two
species of bear, two species of antelope, wolves, &c., all
of which they pursued, but more principally in the
autumn and winter. They were very poorly equipped
for such sport I thought. They are looked down upon
by the independent Lolos, who are a most interesting
race, about which very little is known, no one as yet
having been able to penetrate into the country. The
weather now was a little warmer, and butterflies more
numerous. I captured many rare and interesting-
species. In spare time I used to shoot a few pigeons to
vary my diet, which consisted principally of Indian
corn cake and eggs. I had a few tins of provisions
with me, but considered them luxuries. I was lucky
enough also to find plenty of watercress growing in a
brook flowing through the limestone, and it made a
welcome addition to my table.

On June 10, as the weather appeared to have set in
fine and warm, I commenced night work, and was able
by sugaring to obtain rare nocture.

While I was at Kia-ting-fu I made arrangements
with the missionaries there — Messrs. Eirie and Vale —
to have my mails sent to their care, and having sent a
coolie in from this place to inquire, he returned on
June 17, bringing letters and newspapers, which gave
me some idea of what was going on in the civilised

DESCRIPTION OF MOUNT WA 119

world. The mails, as far as Kia-ting-fu, are forwarded
by the Chmese post, but the dates of their arrivals are
very uncertain.

I took several photographs while at this place, one of
the mission house being here reproduced. I also took
one of Mount Wa, which unfortunately got spoiled by the
light getting to it. I regretted this very much, as it is
such a peculiarly shaped and interesting mountain. It
has been so well described by Mr. Baber in his valuable
book that I cannot do better than quote from it. ' The
upper story of this most imposing mountain is a series of
twelve or fourteen precipices rising one above another,
each not much less than 200 feet high, and receding
very slightly on all four sides from the one next below
it. Every individual precipice is regularly continued
all round the four sides. Or it may be considered as a
flight of thirteen steps, each 180 feet high and thirty
feet broad. Or, again, it may be described as thirteen
layers of square, or slightly oblong, limestone slabs,
180 feet thick and about a mile on each side, piled
with careful regularity and exact levelling upon a base
8,000 feet high. Or perhaps it may be compared to a
culjic crystal stuck amid a row of irregular gems. Or
perhaps it is beyond compare.'

120

CHAPTEE IX

WA-SHAN TO TA-TSIEN-LU

Decide to visit Ta-tsien-lu — Preparations for journey — Coolies' loads — So-
i-ling Pass — Huang-mii-chang — Pere Martin — Chin-ki-za — Fu-lin —
Its trade and produce — Inhospitality — Trouble about horses and coolies
— Procure mules but lose them at Ni-tou — Fei-yueh-ling Pass — Pines
and rhododendrons — Magnificent view — Dirt and discomfort at Leng-
chi — -Valley of the Tung Eiver — Suspension bridge at Lu-ting-chiao —
Cha-pa — Welcomed by missionaries — A flood in a watercourse — Bad
road — Euined houses — The Tung in flood — Trafi&c on the road —
Fruit at Wa-ssu — Eoad to Ta-tsien-lu — Zones of vegetation — Single
rope bridge — Arrival at Ta-tsien-lu — Kindness of Bishop Biet.

My collectors were now well up to their duties, and
quite able, I thought, to complete such work as might
be done here without my personal supervision. I
therefore decided upon changing my original plan of
stopping here all the summer and, leaving them and
the collections already made behind, to advance to
Ta-tsien-lu. The botanical collector was left in charge,
and I found that thirty men were to be put under him,
these being told off for such stations as I considered
most jDromising.

On June 25 my last preparations were made by
sending letters down to Kia-ting-fu, and packing up all

SO-I-LING PASS 121

tliat miglit be necessary. Finding that there was
nothing to prevent my going, and as I was particularly
anxious not to lose more of the season than was abso-
lutely necessary, there being a species of butterfly
[Parnassius Imperator) found further west, a series of
which I wished to secure, I made a start on the following
day with Mr. Kricheidorff, my cook and interpreter,
and six coolies. These coolies carry enormous loads,
considering the mountainous nature of the country and
the rough roads they have to travel over, to say nothing
of the poor nature of the food they have to live upon.
From Kia-ting-fu to VVa-shan their loads were supposed
to be as nearly sixty catties as possible each, but I
found that from Wa-shan to Ta-tsien-lu the custom was
for them to carry eighty catties, a catty being as nearly
as possible one pound and a third. The road ascends
for about four hours' march, passing through forest,
the ground being very rocky and the path winding.
At last the summit of the So-i-ling Pass is reached,
which is 8,778 feet above the sea level. After descend-
ing some distance by a particularly tortuous road a
very deep wild ravine is suddenly seen. The path
leads along the southern side for about four miles,
when there is an abrupt descent, and the neck of the
ravine is crossed by a stone bridge. Then after a steep
ascent the road leads along the opposite side of the

122 HUANG-MU-CIIANG

ravine to nearly the point on the other side to which it
entered. This is only mentioned to show what a long
distance has to be traversed in many cases when the
actual advance is very small. I saw several young wild
pigs during the day, but no old ones.

Huang-mu-chang was my halting place for the
night, when I again met Pere Martin and had a hearty
welcome from him and an invitation to stay at his
house. He has a nice place with a good garden, in
which are many familiar flowers, such as sweet william,
cockscombs, and many other things, the seeds of which
have been sent him from France. In the kitchen
garden also he has vegetables, such as we are accus-
tomed to at home, and is gradually spreading the
cultivation of such of them as thrive well among the
Chinese.

I parted from Pere Martin the next morning
(June 27) at 9 o'clock, and travelling as usual through
a very mountainous region reached a market village
called Chin-ki-za at 5.30 p.m., having walked sixty li
from Huang-mu-chang. This was a very hard day's
work, the roads as usual being very bad, and I think
that the poorness of the food upon which we had lived
was beginning to tell upon Mr. KricheldorfT and myself.
At this place the soldiers or runners left me in order
to report themselves at the Yamen of Ching-chi-hsien,.

FU-LIN 12H

from which phice their successors were to be sent on
to me.

June 28. — Made a start at 6 a.m. The road de-
scended all the morning until Fu-lin was entered at
noon. This is a curiously situated place, being built
upon a low-lying plateau close to the Tung Eiver.
Several streams join it here, and between them are
high barren ranges of hills, the plateau in its lowest
parts bearing the most unmistakable signs of being
frequently flooded, as it is covered with water-worn
pebbles.

Fu-liu is an important place, and does a con-
siderable trade in wheat, barley, Indian corn, and
millet. Flour of excellent quality is produced, and
very fine pears are grown, suitable only for cooking
purposes. Apples and peaches, bringalls and potatoes,
are also sold here in large quantities. The town is very
thickly populated and the inhabitants most inhospitable.
I was unfortunately without my guard, and in con-
sequence I was not even allowed to sit down and rest
in the town at an inn, so there was nothing but to march
tlirough and have our midday halt and meal under a
tree outside the boundary. It is a very hot place,
having high hills to the north. Arrived at Tang-chia-
pa at G P.M. and tried to hire horses to carry us to
Ta-tsien-lu, as the marching over such rough roads

124 HIBE MULES

was getting too severe. These having been promised,
I dismissed the coolies from Wa-shan also, as I was
informed that I could replace them here.

June 29. — ^Wliile we were at breakfast the Chinese
horse owner brought the horses round, and was told to
wait. He did so for a time, and then to(^k the horses
away, having no doubt been threatened with violence
if he let his horses to the foreign devils. This put me
in a nice fix, for the coolies dismissed the evening before
had gone back, and I had loads to be transported when
neither horses nor coolies were to be hired. At last I
sent a message to the headman by my interpreter,
saying that if horses and coolies were not provided forth-
with I should send to Ching-chi-hsien and report him for
having caused me delay. This message had the desired
effect, but not wholly, for I got coolies but no horses.
These, however, enabled me to leave the place, and
after going about ten li a man with mules was met and
an agreement made with him to take us on to Ta-tsien-
lu. The mules had no saddles, but he said he could
procure them at M-tou, and so we had to make shift
with blankets. The road all day led b}^ the side of a
river bed or watercourse now nearly dry, but showing
unmistakable signs that at times there must be heavy
floods. It was a barren country with rocks and
boulders of red sandstone. Heavy rain fell in the

FEI-YUEH-LING PASS 125

afternoon, and I was heartily glad wlien a small place was
reached, twenty-five li from Ni-ton, where we could sleep.

June 30. — A start bemg made at 6 a.m., Ni-tou
was reached at noon. Here the owner of the mules
reported that the animals wanted shoeing, but, after
a reasonable time had been allowed, they were not
forthcoming. Truly the Chinese are a most vexatious
people to deal with. All these little troubles arose
through my not having the soldiers with me, but I
certainly had expected them to have met me before
this. There was nothing for it but to proceed on
foot, and be thankful that I had at least some coolies
to carry my baggage. I reached a small place ten li
beyond San-chuo-ping at 4 p.m., and stopped there for
the night, as there were no houses on the road between
this and Hua-ling-ping, which was too far off to be
reached.

July 1. — Started at 6 a.m. The road was ascend-
ing now as the Fei-yueh-ling Pass was being approached.
This is at an elevation of 9,020 feet, and the ascent is-
hard work, the roads as usual being very bad. The
principal trees are pines mingled with other evergreens,,
and in the open spaces several species of Hydrangea are
seen. Hio-her up rhododendrons and azaleas flourish,,
some of the former being still in bloom, one being con-
spicuous from the fine deep carmine colour of its flower.

126 DIBTY INN AT LENG-CHI

I took here some fine specimens of an interesting form
of ' Apatura.' Near the summit, from which tliere is a
fine view, the road leads in a semicircle round a deep
ravine or bay several miles across, and the forest is
looked down upon. This, with the clouds rolling
beneath, presents a remarkable spectacle. The tem-
perature was cool and a welcome change from the
stifling heat of the valleys. We now descended to
Leng-chi, where we arrived in an exhausted state, and
tumbled into the first inn that presented itself. In
justice to the town I may here say that if we had gone
a little further we might have had more decent accom-
modation, for though I had some idea of what a dirty
place a Chinese inn might be, this one for filth, dis-
comfort, and the quantity of vermin that it contained
was entitled to take the cake. My room was small,
and with no window, a lamp having to be used in the
day time. The walls were black with slime, and in
spite of being very tired I could get but little rest
during the night, my unfortunate body being invaded
by hosts of vermin of all sorts. I left this at an early
hour the next morning, being only too glad to get away.
During my travels I have been forced to take refuge in
some curiously dirty places, but this inn will remain fixed
in my mind as containing the most varied collection of
the most disagreeable things that I have ever met with

LU-TINCI-CIIIAO BRIDGE 127

at one time. We liad breakfast on a spur of the
mountains looking over the Tung Eiver, whose course
we had now again met, and which here takes a direc-
tion ahnost due north. The road leads partly past a
precipice from which a headland projects, and here it
has to be cut into the face in such a way that the rocks
hang over the traveller's head. The path is a little
wider than usual, and at this spot a dwarf wall is built
on the outer side. This is a precaution for safety rarely
seen in the country. A short distance further and a
sudden descent takes us into the valle}^ of the Tung, up
which we proceed till a sharp turn to the left brings us
suddenly into the town of Lu-ting-chiao, which is
built on both banks of the Tung Eiver, the two parts ol
the town being connected by a suspension bridge — a
thing one would hardly expect to see in this remote
region. It is, however, a thoroughly good piece of
work, having substantial stone piers to carry chains,
which are made of iron of a good inch in diameter, the
ends of which are secured to the rocks at the back.
The footway is about twelve feet wide and is also hung
by chains, the boards forming it not being fastened
down. This remarkable ])ridge is about 120 yards
long, and is perhaps 150 feet above the highest level of
the Tung Eiver. In the street at each end is a bazaar
where goods and provisions are sold. I was heartily

128 DANGEROUS ROAD

laughed at by the natives when crossing, for the oscil-
lation was so great as to cause me some alarm, there
being no hand rail. I therefore made a halt in the
middle, waiting for it to get steady again before pro-
ceeding. They being accustomed to it can of course
cross without any hesitation.

After getting across I heard that there were some
French missionaries at Cha-pa, a short distance down
the river, and instead of going on the direct road I
decided to visit them, and therefore made a sharp turn
to the left. The road was in a place extremely
dangerous, being merely a groove cut into an almost
precipitous abutment, composed of shale. This foot-
hold— for it is nothing more, and barely that — has to
be constantly renewed by anybody who wishes to pass,
for in wet weather the shale is washed away, and in
dry weather it crumbles. A false step would send a
traveller over the slippery surface into the torrent of
the Tung Eiver, perhaps a hundred feet beneath, and as,
in which, owing to its violence, a boat can hardly live,,
except in the most quiet places, even the most expert
swimmer would have little or no chance of saving his-
life, if even that had been left to him after the fall.
There is considerable traffic past this dangerous place,,
and it was curious to notice that though such a capital
bridge had been constructed such a short distance-

FLOODED WATEIiCOUESE 120

nway, that no effort had been made to improve the road
here.

Probably, if a Httle labour was expended, the solid
rock would be reached, and a fairly good and perma-
nent road could then be easily made. We got to Clia-
pa at 4 r.M., and found the missionaries, who gave us a
hearty welcome, and were astonished at seeing us.
Heavy rain fell just as we arrived, and some time after-
wards, as we were sitting in the verandah, talking and
smokhig, a noise resembling rapidly approaching
thunder was heard. On going to the back of the
mission-house, where there was a garden, at the end of
which was a dry watercourse, we were just in time to
see a mass of turbid water, bearing along huge blocks
of granite weighing man}' tons each, break over a
precipice, nearly two hundred feet high, with a deafen-
mg roar, and plunge into the watercourse beneath. In
a moment the flood was passing the bottom of the
garden, but the scene of the wildly rushing water is
more than my pen is able to describe. A brown-
coloured flood dashed furiously along, bearino- with it
large masses of granite, and tossing them about as if
they were mere chips. These were violently thrown
against each other and against the bed of the course,
with such force as to make the ground tremble beneath
our feet.

130 WBECKED HOUSES

The suddenness of the whole thing — the tremendous
noise, the terrible exhibition of the power of a flood of
water to toss enormous boulders about like playthings —
combined to fix the scene indelibly upon my mind, but
no description can do any justice to it.

In about three hours it was all over, and a small
stream of water only ran along the course so short a
time before in raging flood. It was caused, I have no
doubt, by the hot weather we had lately experienced,
and the heavy rain acting on the snow on the mountain
ranges, perhaps some miles distant.

I slept at the mission-house that night, it being a
treat to get clean lodgings after what I had gone
through in some of the Chinese inns. The missionaries
were very hospitable. They are under their bishop,
who resides at Ta-tsien-lu.

On July 3 we left the mission station at 8 a.m., and
found a difficulty almost immediately, for the storm of
last night had washed part of the road away. I had
hired some mules the evening before, but these now
could not proceed, and had to be left, we having to
travel on foot again as usual. I noticed the wrecks of
many houses that had been built on low-lying ground,
some having been washed away, others being filled
with mud and rendered uninhabitable. These would
all be put to rights again in the course of a few weeks,

TEADE ON THE ROAD ,131

the walls rebuilt or cleared out, as uiiglit be necessary ;
and it is curious to note that though they are probably
washed away or damaged every other year or so, they
are invariably reconstructed or repaired, the idea of
moving to higher and safer ground not apparently
entering into the owners' heads. The Tung River to-
day was a thick roaring torrent, full of huge boulders
and whirlpools. The general direction of the road wa,s'
now nearly due north. It was very rocky, winding
among the spurs of the mountains, and varying from
150 to 1,500 feet above the level of the river, which
made it hard work for ourselves and the cooHes.
There was a great deal of traffic, however, as I
noticed tobacco, salt, and tea being taken to Ta-tsien-lu
from the lower parts of Sze-chuen, and hides, musk,
deer-horns, and medicines going south, all carried by
coolies.

Descending into a valley, a tributary of the Tung-
was crossed by means of a good stone bridge, with the
usual coolie rest-house at the end ; and ascending, we
passed round a high headland, where I noticed large
quantities of fossil shells. A few miles further on and
Wa-ssu is seen. Prickly pears grow here, this being
the first time I saw them. The fruit is used for food.
Very fine peaches, apricots, and apples are largely
grown, and sent to the market at Ta-tsien-lu. Wa-ssu

K 2

196 ZONES OF VEGETATION

is a small place, and we stopped the night there. Snow
is seen just before the village is reached, high up on the
mountains.

' On July 4 the road to Ta-tsien-lu led up a very deep
i][orge, with immense mountains on each side. A re-
markably clear stream ran by the side, and here and
there fell into deep blue pools. The scenery was
magnificent, and the illustration gives but a faint idea
of its grandeur. Views up ravines disclosed snow-
capped mountains, below which were forests of dark
pine, and the different zones of vegetation could be
distinctly traced. Just below the snow, grass was
growing, and then in rotation followed pine forests,
rhododendrons, mixed evergreens, and then in valleys
sub-tropical plants. I should here note that the vege-
tation is. more Tibetan in character than Chinese. On
the road I noticed a single rope suspension bridge over
a river. This consisted of a bamboo cable about three
inches in diameter, stretched across about 120 feet
above the water, and having a free running plaited
bamboo ring upon it. From this ring an inverted T-
piece, with the shank about four feet long, hung, and
liixht haulino- lines were attached to it and to each bank.
The traveller seats himself on the cross of the T, and
then, the cable of course being in a curve, on letting go
from the bank liis own weight carries him half-way, or

or THt ^

(s or

MIXED BACES IN TA-TSIEN-LU 183

more, across. He iiO"\v takes the hauling line, and
pulls himself up the curve to the other bank.

The city of Ta-tsien-lu is not seen by the traveller
until he is close to the yates, and on entering', the streets
are ^found to be crowded with a strange mixture of
races. The houses are certainly Chinese, but tlie popu-
lation is a mixture of all the nations of Asia, Tibetans
predominating. I made my way through the city, and,
passing out by the south gate, soon found the house of
the Eoman Catholic Bishop — Monseigneur Biet — who
received me very kindly, and interested himself in
getting rooms at an inn in the city, the same place that
Captahi Gill and Mr. Baber had stopped at.

184

CHAPTEE X

TA-TSIEN-LU

Meet Mr. Rockhill — His joiirney — Missionaries give great assistance —
Christian collectors — Hard life and devotion of the missionaries —
Description of the inn — Prayer papers — Caravans — -Caravan drivers
— Their dress — The landlady's wealth — Value of gold — Citj' of Ta-
tsien-lu — Its inhabitants — Their dress and arms — Lamas — Funeral
rites of a lama — Brick tea — ^Loads carried by coolies — Trade — Dis-
tance travelled by caravans — Currency — Sealing-wax — Women's feast
— Sanscrit inscriptions — Despatch carriers between Pekin and Lhassa
—Departure of Mr. Eockhill — Misfortunes of his men — Tibetan dogs
— Expedition to Chet-tu — Poor loAgings^CrossojiHlon Tihetanum
seen — Parnassiiis Imperator — Expedition to the north — Shooting
Crosso2>tilon — Preparations for departure.

On my arrival at the inn I found Mr. Eockhill, an
American, who had been previously attached to their
legation at Pekin, and who had travelled from that
place through the practically unknown region on the
boundary between China and Tibet, I had been told by
Monseigneur Biet that he was there, and was agreeably
SLiriDrised that I should have an English-speaking fellow
traveller living in the same house with me for at least
some days.

I do not know how to sufficiently thank Bishop
Biet and the Fathers Soulie, Mossot and Dejean for all
their kindness and attention to me during my stay.

^^\B R K R Y'

Of TH€

UNIVERSn

OF

FRENCH MISSIONARIES 13r>

Everything in their power was done, and as they spoke
both Tibetan and Chinese, and were well acquainted
with the peculiar ways and manners of the natives, it
may be easily understood that tlieii- assistance was in-
valuable. Bishop Biet, a man with a highly cultivated
mind and refined taste, has been here, or rather in the
district, for twenty-five years, and here he will in all pro-
bability end his days, for he told me that the missionary
bishops are rarely, if ever, recalled by the Pope. The
last European he saw before Mr, Eockhill, who, by the
way, is an American, and mj^self, was Mr. Baber in 1879,
and this is 1889. His brother, also a missionary, was
murdered in Manchuria, and here both he and the
Fathers have to be extremely cautious even now, for
the lamas bear them no goodwill. My collectors were
all Christians, brought up from childhood by the Bishop
and the Fathers, and were in a much more civilised state
than the Buddhist Tibetans and mixed Chinese, who
refused to work for me. All the Eoman Catholic mis-
sionaries had a very hard life, and I think that people
at home have very little idea of the sacrifices they make
for the sake of their religion. Beyond having cleaner,
and perhaps, in a trifling way, better houses than the
natives, there is no difference in their mode of life!
They seldom see civilised people, and yet have done-
much to civilise the almost savage races among whom

186 PHOTOGRAPH OF MONSEIGNEUB BIET

they dwell. Their food is coarse and often scanty, and
their lives are frequently in danger. The Bishop
himself now seldom leaves his house, but does all the
Ohurch work there through the Fathers and the con-
siderable number of converts that have been made.

The winter weather is now too severe for him, and
in the autumn he goes down to Cha-pa, just below
Lu-ting-chiao, and remains there till the spring. He
was not in good health when I last saw him.

On July 8 I took his photograph, and he was
delighted at the idea of sending copies to his friends
and relations. My camera was undoubtedly the first
that had ever been in this region, and by its agency
the Bishop was enabled to send to his friends of twenty-
five years ago a tolerably faithful picture of himself.
The devotion of the French missionaries in general to
the cause of their religion deserves notice. No work
is too hard for them, no living too poor. They are not
deterred by epidemics of sickness or by threatened
massacre. They have simply devoted their lives to the
propagation of their religion, and nothing can turn them
from their purpose. Much they have done, but much
more remains to be done ; and it struck me forcibly,
during my travels, that they, above all others, are the
most determined that it shall be done.

The inn in which I had my quarters was fairly com-

CAB A VAN DIUVERS 137

fortable. In front was a yanl and stabling for a few
horses, and a pole was erected in it from which strings
of paper prayers hung fluttering in the wind. Eound
the walls also bits of stick were inserted here and there
and similarly ornamented. The roof of the kitchen was
flat, and on it there was a small dome-shaped erection
of clay, in which every day, at about five o'clock in the
afternoon, the branches of a sort of coniferous plant
were burnt with religious ceremony.

Caravans used to stop here, and on their arrival the
beasts of burden were unloaded in the yard and then
driven along a 2)assage running through the house to
an enclosure at the back, where they were left for the
night. The animals used were horses, or a cross-breed
between the yak and a cow, a much smaller animal
than the wild yak. The drivers are all Tibetan, and are
a rough muscular set of men wearing their hair hanging
over their faces, their skins being tanned a dark brown
colour. Thev wear a loose brown woollen coat reaching
to the knees, and fastened round the waist with a belt,
through which the upper part is pulled up till it falls
over and hides the girdle, forming a substitute for
pockets. Eaw hide boots reaching to just below the
knee are worn, and a curiously shaped cowl for the head
with a flap hanging down behind, in the middle of which
is a circular red patch, completes their costume. They

138 LANDLADY OF THE INN

also wear, but whether as an ornament or not I could
not find out, a long thick pigtail, plaited up out of
coarse black hair and ornamented with silver bands, in
some of which turquoises or pieces of red coral are set.

The landlady of the inn was a Tibetan, whose husband
was at Lhassa, and who was, I believe, an interpreter.
She was very comfortably off as far as I could judge,
and one day she showed me a great part of her wealth,
which consisted of massive gold ornaments of rough
manufacture. It is a common practice among the
women here to have their fortunes in jewellery, because,
I imagine, there are no banks or safe places where
money can be kept. Gold, I may here mention, has
not the same relative value to silver as it has in Lower
China, but is considerably cheaper.

The city of Ta-tsien-lu is most irregularly built, the
houses being of all shapes and sizes, the roadways
merely layers of large stones, and a stream runs through
its centre from south to north.

It is inhabited principally by Chinese and Tibetans,
the former being generally the merchants and shop-
keepers, the latter for the most part employed in the cara-
van trade. All Tibetans are dressed in much the same
way as I have before described, those not being employed
in caravans wearing a felt hat, if a hat is worn at all,
instead of a cowl. Certain of the more wealthy wear

LAMAS 131>

on occasions a grey felt hat, perhaps a foot high. No
Tibetan is ever without a wooden bowl, sometimes lined
with silver, from which he eats his porridge or drinks his
tea. He also invariably carries a small neat tinder-box,,
usually with the steel attached to it, the flint being
carried inside. These two articles when not in use are
carried in the folds of his long coarse coat.

All races of Asiatics may be seen in the streets,
many being tall, fine, fierce-looking specimens of
humanity, armed with long guns, daggers and swords.
Their fire-arms are as a rule of no cjreat use, bein<>"
of the obsolete type so frequently seen among such
people, but the owners value tliem highly ; and
though I wished to bring some home as curiosities,
the price asked was so high as to prevent my pur-
chasing. Many lamas are seen at all times in the town,.
there being a large lamasery just outside. They may
be told by their scarlet cloaks and shaven heads, and
their music while at prayers is heard all day long.
Monseigneur Biet informed me that, while he was at
Batang, a lama of high rank died. The body was carried
to a lofty plateau, the flesh was then cut off the bones,
and the bones crushed and mixed with flour. Both
were then given to the vultures, and the whole body
was thus satisfactorily disposed of. Tibetan women
work hard. Thev collect firewood on the mountain

140 HEAVY LOADS CARRIED

slopes, and do muc-li out-of-door work which the Chinese
women are unable to do.

A lar^e quantity of tea comes into Ta-tsien-lu,
principally from Ya-chow-fu. It is of a very coarse
description, and is made up in slabs about forty inches
long, nine wide, and three and a half thick, weighing
perhaps twelve to fifteen pounds each, and are wrapped
in matting. They are carried by coolies, who travel by
way of the Lu-ting bridge, this being the only place
where the Tung Eiver can be crossed in the district.
The loads carried by the coolies are enormous, and run
from 200 lbs. to considerably over 300 lbs., the slabs
of tea being packed on a light wooden frame, and
reaching high above the coolie's head, the frame having
two rope loops at the upj^er end, through which the
arms are passed. A T stick is always carried, and
when resting, the weight of the burden is taken by the
top of the stick, the bottom being on the ground.
Bishop Biet showed me an iron safe about two feet
high that had been carried from Ya-chow by one man.
At Ta-tsien-lu the slabs of tea are cut up into so-called
bricks, which are then packed in hide and taken by the
caravans to all parts of Tibet. Tobacco and salt are
also taken by the caravans, having been first imported
from China, and they bring from Tibet for export to
the East, hides, deer-horns, musk and medi(jinal plants.

WOMEN'S FEAST 141

Some of" the caravans travel enormous distances, one
going regularly to Tisliulumbo, to the westward of
Lhassa, and about l,-")00 miles from 'i\i-tsien-lu. They
are six months on the road. Indian rupees are here
plentiful, and are a recognised currency. Eussian
roubles are also found, and in increasing numbers.

I found a very useful kind of sealing-wax here. It
is made from the refuse of a Tibetan dye, and does not
melt or bend from the heat of the weather. It is very
light, and of a dark brown colour.

One day there was a women's feast at the inn-
what the occasion was I do not know, but about
twenty met, Chinese and Tibetan, all dressed in their
best, the former in silks and satins, with hair well oiled"
and cheeks painted and powdered, the latter in dark
woollen blouse and trousers, with boots up to the knee.
They all wore as much jewellery as possible, of gold and
silver, the latter having turcpioises and coral set in it,
and being roughly enamelled. The earrings worn were
very large, with chains hanging down, and the re-
mainder of the ornaments took the form of louix chains,
bracelets, and brooches, all being of rough maimfacture.
They met at about tAvo o'clock in the afternoon, and
appeared to enjoy themselves very much till six, when
they dispersed.

In the roads, in various places near the town, large

142 DESPATCHES FBOM LHASSA

heaps of broken stone slabs may be seen, covered with
inscriptions in Sanscrit character. They are not under-
stood by the natives, but are held in great respect, and
if a piece gets broken off or thrown into the road, it is
always carefully replaced. The Chinese take no notice
of these heaps.

This town is on the high road Ijetween Pekin and
Lhassa, and sometimes the Government messenger may
be seen passing through. The system is curious, and
it seems to be indispensable that a despatch of any im-
portance must be carried the whole distance by one
man. The best horses are procured for him to ride
upon, and he never stops except to change horses, to
the saddle of which he is tied. He is accompanied by
two soldiers, who are changed at every station, on the
arrival at which a fresh horse is always found ready,
and fresh guards in attendance. The courier is untied
from the horse, given a raw Qgg to eat, mounted and
tied to a fresh horse, and proceeds on his journey. I
was informed that this excessively liard work proves
fatal to many couriers.

On July 11 Mr. Eockhill left on his return journey,
which he made to Shanghai by, I believe, the same
road that I had come up, viz. by land to Kia-ting-fu,
and then down the river by native boat to Ichang,
where he would be able to finish his journey by steamer.

{^^^J^"^^"^

TIBETAN JEWELRY, ETC.
1. Bells carried by lamas. 2. Tibetan tsimba bowl, maile of wood ami lined witli silver.

3. Tibetan brooch: silver, turq noise, and coral. 4. Tibetan rinp;: silver, with a tnniuoise.

5. Tibetan car-rinp : silver, and turqnoises.

6. Part of Tibetan woman's belt: leather, with polislieil pebbles stitclied on; longtli about

9 feet, weight 3i lbs.

7. Chiuese shoe silver. 8. Very old sword cash from Sui-fu.

TIBETAN DOGS 143

He was much put out before leaving because some of
liis men had not come in, though he had been nearly
three weeks, I think, waiting for them. Among the
things that they were bringing were two Tibetan dogs,
one of which he made a present to me, if they should ever
arrive. Seven days after he left the men came in with
a long tale of misfortunes to relate. The lamas, they
said, had treated them very badly. They refused to
supply them with fodder for their horses, and conse-
quently they had lost some from starvation. They
were then bound hand and foot for ten days, while the
lamas sent to Cheng-tu for orders about them. When
their messenger returned he brought directions for
their liberation. All this trouble was caused by their
travelling without passports. They brought the dogs
safely, however, and I much regret that I was unable
to bring either home, the female dying at Hankow and
the male in the Mediterranean. The latter was an
enormous beast, the largest dog I have ever seen, with
a black shaggy coat and tan-coloured legs. He had a
broad muzzle, and was very powerful and fierce. This
breed is peculiar to a province or district called Deggi,
and even the local king at Ta-tsien-lu has to send there
for them if he wants them pure. The female was
smaller, with a smooth coat, but of the same colour,
black and tan. She was a Sifan doi?, and not so savage

144 TIUP TO CIIET-TU

as the male, but sly and treacherous. These dogs are
used by all tlie caravan drivers to protect their
merchandise at night. When they arrive at a camping-
place the beasts of burden have their loads removed and
stacked together. They are then covered with a tent of
some sort, and the dogs are secured to stakes all round.
If they caught a thief they \YOuld pull him down in a
moment, and probably kill him.

On July 25 I left Ta-tsien-lu for a few days, travelling
to Chet-tu, a Tibetan village about ten miles to the
westward. The mountains here rise to an elevation of
15,000 feet, and I found lodging in a stone-built hut in
the valley beneath. There were two rooms in the hut,
one being inhabited by the owners, the other by the
cows, pigs, cats, dogs, and fowls belonging to them —
and ourselves. It was not possible to get much rest,
and the place was very dirty. The roof let the rain in,
and the wind whistled through crevices in the walls.
Everything, however, was not bad, for I found I could
2fet excellent milk. In the morning I ascended the
mountain to see if I could find any Crossoptilon Tihet-
anum. After a hard walk I saw a fine cock within ten
yards, and ni}" cartridge missed fire. This was the first
one I had ever seen w41d, and the only one I saw during
the day. It was a most annoying thing. I was not far
now from the snow, and I found many flowers growing,

TRir TO THE NOBTIIWABD 145

principally annuals, and of several species. This dis-
trict is rich in Thecla, and I have taken as many as
300 J. Bieti in one morning with my forceps off
the droppings of the baggage animals on the Lhassa
road.

On the 2 9 til I returned to Ta-tsien-lu, having
made a good collection. I had now a good series of
Parnassius Imperator and of many other species, the
best hours for collecting being between eight and eleven
in the forenoon, for afterwards a strong breeze sprung
up usually, and lasted till nearly five.

On August 10 I made a trip to the northward, and
as there were no villages in the mountains I intended
to visit I took a Tibetan tent with me. These are
made of Chinese cloth embroidered with blue, and are
used by the Tibetans in the summer, when they make
trips to the mineral springs in the mountains, in which
'they bathe. At 5 p.m. I had arrived at an altitude of
11,000 feet. The tent was pitched and all made snug.
The scenery was magnificent, the snow above us com-
mencing at an altitude of about 16,000 feet, the country
between being well wooded, principally with pines.
The next day I shot a few Crossoptilon Tibetanum in
the morning, but none in the afternoon. The country
is very difficult to get over at all, the slopes being very
steep, and in other places large quantities of stones and

L

146 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING

boulders may be found, piled together probably by
avalanches, and in such a loose way that anybody walk-
ing over them might chance to set one moving, and that
would most likely set a large number rolling down in a
most dangerous way. I saw at least a hundred of the
Crossoptilon, many in places where it was impossible to
shoot.

Pere Soulie came up and stayed a day and a night,
and on the 14tli we returned to Ta-tsien-lu, and I at
once made preparations for departure. My journey
there was not originally contemplated, but I saw such
an interesting country before me that I resolved, if
possible, to return the following year. I had, however,
considerable collections at Ta-tien-chih, and these, with
what I had collected at Ta-tsien-lu, I was anxious to get
together and send home as early as possible. In addi-
tion to what I had when I left the former place, I ex-
pected to have a large quantity gathered by the collectors
I had left behind.

^ OF THE \

yWlVERSITY )

OF . '

147

CHAPTER XI

KETURN JOURXEY TO ICIIANG

Departure for Wa-ssu — Difficulty atl^'u-lin — Huang-mia-chang — Road lost
— So-i-ling Pass at night — Arrive at Ta-tien-chih at midnight-
Collectors work — Horses procured — Guard of soldiers — Arrive at
Kia-ting-fu — Carelessness with mails — Go to my boat — Very heavy
flood — Great loss of life — False rumours concerning the object of my
journey — Inspection of boat by Tao-tai — Visit to city- Lowban pro-
cures flag— Leave for Ichang— Destruction of village — Boat aground
in wi-ong channel — Pass Sui-fu — Lu-chau — Delayed by heavy rain —
Arrival at Chung-king— Delayed by high river at Quei-chow-fu —
Wrecks of junks — Pass the Sin-tan and Ta-tung Eapids. — Waterfalls.

Ox August 15 I finished my packing ; and after
having thanked Bishop Biet and the Fathers for their
extreme kindness and invaluable assistance, telling my
collectors at the same time that I hoped to be able to
engage them the following summer, I left for Wa-ssu at
2 P.M. and arrived at 7.30.

My return journey was taken by the same road that
I had come by, and I crossed the Fei-yueh-ling Pass on
August 18, arriving at Fu-lin on the 2()th. Here, again,
I had difficulties, for they were most inhospitable to me
on my first passing through the town. Now I found
the greatest difficulty in getting a room to sleep in, but

L 2

148 BOAD LOST

at last I managed to get a den in which to pass the
niffht. It had no ventilation: the stench was abo-
minable and the heat almost unbearable ; but it was
better than nothing.

My coolies went off to smoke opium as usual. It is
a most pernicious habit, no doubt, but they will do it
whenever they have money, and it has become with
most of them such a habit that they cannot do without it,

I was glad to leave the heat and discomfort of Fu-lin
as soon as I could the next morning, and after a hard
day's work over bad roads I got to Chin-ki-za, in a
delightful climate 6,000 feet above the sea level, at 6 p.m.,
and on the 22nd I reached Huang-mu-chang, where
I found Pere Martin, who gave me a warm welcome.

On August 23rd I sent my coolies on in the morning
to Ta-tien-chih, keeping two only with me, my object
in staying behind being to take a photograph of Pere
Martin, who was very anxious to have it done. Having
accomplished this, satisfactorily as I thought, I made a
start at 2 p.m., but had a most unfortunate journey.
The coolie whom I had trusted as a guide missed the way,
and for some time did not find out what a mistake he
had made. In the end we were about ten miles on a
wrong road and had to return. We reached the top of
the So-i-ling Pass, 8,770 feet, just as it became pitch
dark, and the descent was absolutely dangerous.

CHIN-KOU-HO 149

Luckily we were able to make torches of dry bamboo,
but even then the road was rather alarming. To fniish,
we arrived at Ta-tien-chih at midnight, fearfully hungry
and worn out, but could obtain nothing to eat except
rice.

The following day I sent to recall all the collectors
I had left behind, and upon looking over their work,
both entomological and ])otani('al, I found that they
had done very well, and I had much reason to be pleased
with their exertions. I was very busy packing up all
day, getting the things dried as well as possible, engaging-
coolies and horses, of which I was fortunate enough to
procure three, one being for Mr. Kricheldorff, one for
the cook, and the third for myself.

On August 26 Tstarted with twenty-four coolies and
found the horse a great assistance. I was unable to ride
all day, the road being, in many places, too dangerous.
Chin-kou-ho was reached in the evening, and here I
found three Yamen runners waiting for me, they having
been sent by the local mandarin, whom I had informed, at
his special desire, of my return to Wa-shan. This part
of the road, that is to say between Wa-shan and Kia-
ting-fu, is always considered to be dangerous from its
proximity to the Lolo frontier ; and I believe attacks
are more frequently made here than in the districts
further west and north.

150 DISASTBOUS FLOOD

Oil the SOtli Su-clii was reached, and from here I
finished the journey with my men in two sampans^
arriving at Kia-ting-fu at 4 p.m. The missionaries,
Messrs. Eirie and Yale, came to see me, and I was much
disappointed when they informed me that there were
no letters.

I then made inquiries of the Chinese agent, as he
had instructions to detain any letters for me, but he also
told me that there were none. Later on, when I arrived
at Chung-king, I saw Messrs. Butterfield and Swires'
agent (also a Chinese), and he told me that a large parcel
had been sent to Kia-ting-fu to the care of the agent
there. Subsequently I discovered that by a piece of
carelessness they had been returned to Chung-king, the
consequence being that I never received them until
some time after my return to Ichang, the postage charged
being very nearly ten shillings.

On my arrival I took up my quarters at once in the
boat, which I was glad to find safe. The lowban had
had an anxious time, he told me, on account of the
flood which occurred in July ; and in this he was
borne out by the statements of the missionaries and the
Chinese themselves, who declared that nothing like it
had occurred for a hundred years. In one night the
river rose fifty feet, flowing into the city through the
gates, destroying houses and property of all kinds.

INSPECTION OF BOAT id

During tlie nii^lit the cries of the unfortunate people
whose houses were flooded coukl be heard imploring
assistance, but none could be rendered. Hundreds of
boats and sampans were dashed to atoms in the roaring
flood of the river, and the loss of life was appalling.
Large junks broke adrift, and some were not got under
control until they had been drifted 800 li down the
river.

Durmg my absence I found that the most extra-
ordinary stories had circulated among the natives as to
the object of my journey. Some said that I w^as kid-
napping children and making medicine out of their
eyes for my photographic apparatus. It was impossible,
they said, for anybody to take such pictures without.
Other reports said that I was catching and killing
snakes so large that it required five men to carry them.
Then, again, the old story was revived, that I had an
infernal machine in the boat, and was only waiting for
a favourable opportunity to utterly destroy the city.
All these things had been reported to the Tao-tai, but of
course he knew far better than to pay any attention to
them; still, the rumours were so persistent that he
felt bound, as a matter of form, to personally inspect
the boat again, after having done which he did all in
his power to reassure the people that no evil thing was
in the boat, and that no danger was to be apprehended.

162 LOWBAN'S FLAG

There being no students in the town now, I was
able to visit it, and found a fine city with good shops
and the people civil. There is a large trade done in
silk, and the town is famous for its embroidery. There
is also a considerable trade in the white vegetable
wax.

I was now busy j^acking, drying, and stowing away
the collections in the boat. This place is very un-
healthy at this time of year, and the weather was very
•rainy, but advantage was taken of every gleam of sun-
shine to spread things out on the roof of the cabin to
dry, damp being one's principal enemy in this district.

The river was now high, and the navigation
-dangerous. I therefore engaged a pilot who was said
to have a good local knowledge.

All being at last arranged and ready to start, the
lowban came on board with two Yamen runners, who
were to accompany me down the river. He informed
me that if we had not got a flag we should be forced to
stop at all the hsiens, or smaller towns, and that he
could procure such a flag. He also said that it w^ould
save us from much annoyance from the natives, M^ho
were badly disposed towards foreigners. I told him
that I only intended to stop at the fus, or large cities,
and gave him an hour to procure the flag. He then
went on shore, and after a while returned with it. It

BOAT AGROUND 163

was of white calico, about a yard wide by three long,
and had some characters painted in black on it. I
have not entered into a full description of the procuring
of this flag, as I shall have more to say about it later on.
The boat was under way at 8 a.m. on September 4, and
the journey down, with the river high, was made at a
very different rate of speed from the journey up. The
first day 280 li were made, and the boat secured only
eighty-five li from Sui-fu. A place was passed where,
on the voyage up, a thriving village was situated. Not a
trace of it now remained, it having been utterly destroyed
by the flood and many of its inhabitants drowned.

During the day the pilot took a wrong channel and
ran the boat on a bank. She swung round and stuck
fast. The rudder had to be unshipped, and some of the
crew getting overboard gradually worked her off into
deep water. I had purchased a sampan as a measure of
precaution at Kia-ting-fu, so that in case of my boat
getting on a rock the collections might be landed.
She, however, on this occasion took the proper channel,
and was swept past us in a moment, and I need hardly
add that it was impossible for her to return against the
current to our assistance. She would only be of any
service by keeping at a considerable distance astern.

On arriving at Sui-fu the next day I got rid of the
pilot and got another. I stayed here onl}^ long enough

154 ABBIVE AT CHUNG-KING

for this and to send a letter tliat I had brought from
Bishop Biet at Ta-tsien-hi to the Bishop. The distance
made was 3G5 h. On September 6 I passed Lu-chau,
where a considerable trade seems to be going on,
especially in timber. A head wind stopped us a little
and several dangerous places were passed. This pilot
seems to be up to his work. The huloes are kept going
to give the boat way through the water, just sufficient
to make her answer her helm. A village was passed
to-day where a robbery took place on our journey up,
and part of the crew landed in the sampan to try and
recover some of the stolen articles. Directly the
object of their visit was understood the natives turned
out in force, and they had to beat a hasty retreat, not
without having received many hard blows from stools,
bamboos, or anything that first came to hand. Made
305 li to-day and anchored, being now 290 li from
Chung-kino-.

Septemher 7. — Could not start to-day till 7, and
then soon had to anchor again, the rain being so heavy
that it was impossible to see far enough ahead. This
was very annoying, as I had quite expected to reach
Chung-king, but, as it was, had to anchor eighty li from
it. However, I got there on the 8th, and stayed till the
10th, during which time I paid visits to the Bishop and
the Fathers at the French Mission. • They were very

TRADE 166

glad to hear about Bishop Biet. Mr. Cockburn, the
British Eesident, very kindly asked me to stay at his
house, and I gladly accepted his hospitality. He lives
on high ground at some distance from the river, in a good
Chinese house, which he has made very comfortable. It
is situated in the middle of the city, but has a fine open
compound where there is plenty of fresh air ; a matter
of considerable importance where the climate generally
is close and damp. It is, however, not a convenient
place for taking exercise from, as if the road is taken
inland nearly half the day is spent in getting out of
the town and its suburbs, the same objection holding-
good if the river is crossed. I was informed that in
1880 no less than 150,000,000 lb. of cotton passed
the town, having come up from Hankow for sale in
Western China. There is a large archery ground in
the western part of the city situated on high land, and
from which a splendid view of the city is obtained. I
much regretted that when I was there I had not taken
my camera, for though the weather was dull I should
have much liked to have had two or three negatives.
After having said good-bye to all my friends, among
whom I should mention Mr. and Mrs. Wilson, mission-
aries, I left on September 10, finding the travelling on
the river very bad and dangerous. Fourteen men were
required to keep the boat under any sort of control.

156 WRECKED JUNKS

and the bow sweep was in frequent use. On the
following day the river was, if possible, worse ; but the
rate of speed was high, about 300 li being made each
day. On September 12 the boat was made fast off the
village of Hu-lin, and the people were very disagreeable.
My dogs were chained up on the beach, and they came
down and stoned them. Fearing that someone might
get bitten, I was obliged to move the dogs into the
boat.

On the loth I arrived at Quei-chow-fu, having
travelled 420 li during the day, and here I was delayed
till the 16th, the river being dangerously high. I
found several hundreds of junks waiting here till the
river should fall sufficiently to make the passage safe,
and I heard that a day or two ago three junks were
knocked to pieces at a bad place a short distance
below. Their crews were all drowned, and one of them
had a hundred souls on board. Sometimes the naviga-
tion is stopped here for weeks at a time. There are
•certain marks on the city walls, and when the water is
.above the highest it is not considered safe to descend
the river ; also when it is below the lowest it is
dangerous.

On the 16th the water had fallen a little, and it was
considered safe to travel. A run of 420 li was made
-during the day, and on the ITtli, which I thought the

WATERFALLS 157

most exciting day of all, the Me-tan and Lu-kan Gorges
were passed, and the Sin-tan and Ta-tung Eapids, the
boat being secured in a backwater about thirty li below
the latter. This was a difficult place to get into, for if
the boat was not huloed into it at exactly the right
moment she was liable to be swept past, and then it
could not be regained against the stream. All the way
down the boat appeared to be a mere toy in the stream.
The utmost skill is necessary just to keep the way on,,
so that she could be steered. Sometimes she was swept
into a whirlpool, and could not be got out for half an
hour or so, just being drifted round and round. In
the wider and shallower parts the shingle can be dis-
tinctly heard rolling along the river bed under the
boat.

Many small waterfalls were seen during the last
part of the voyage down the river, some being of great
height and all very picturesque. They had been
caused by the exceptionally heavy rain of the last few
days flooding the watercourses.

158

CHAPTER XII

SECOND JOURNEY TO TA-TSIEN-LU

Arrival at Ichang — Story of the lowban's flag — Despatch collections —
Leopard on the river bank — Trip to Hankow — Telegraph line —
Official letters concerning my boat — Prepare for journey up river —
Boat damaged on rock — Curious pagoda at Shi-po-chia — Arrive at
Chung-king — Collector sent to Quei-chau — Sui-fu — Kia-ting-fu —
Prepare for journey — Despatch coolies to Kia-kiang — Omei-hsien — •
Wan-nien-tze — Bronze elephant and Buddha — Peculiar tea — Tibetan
worshipper — The summit of Mount Omei — Bronze temple — Pagoda —
Tremendous precipice — Tigers on the mountain — Suicides — View of
the Snowy Mountains — Nimaber of temples and priests on the moun-
tain— Kia-kiang — Arrival at Ya-chow— Bamboo rafts on Ya River —
Yung-ching-hsien — Tai-hsiang-ling-kwan Pass — Ching-chi-hsien —
Bad road— Arrival at Ta-tsien-lu.

On September 19 I arrived at Ichang at 3 p.m. It had
been raining heavily all day, and the river was rising.
My boat was anchored opposite the British Consulate.
The next morning the British Consul came on board and
asked me what flag I had been flying, as a deputation
of leading citizens had waited upon him that morning
saying that his Minister had arrived, and that they were
anxioQS to pay their respects. I showed it to him : this
was the flag that I allowed the lowban to procure at
Kia-ting-fu, and he read immediately that it bore the

SPOBT NEAB ICHANG 169

characters of the late Sir Harry Parkes. Upon calling
upon the lowban for an explanation he smiled and in-
formed me that it was a 'No. 1 piecee fla^ij;-,' and for him
no donbt it was so, for he had made use of its protection
to smuggle a quantity of various kinds of excisable
articles, such as salt, musk, and medicines, past the lekin
stations, the Customs authorities not interfering with a
Minister's boat. I had noticed at Kia-tini?-fu that the
crew were busy shipping a lot of salt — so much, in fact,
that I had to put a stop to it, as we were getting too
deep in the water — but that it was all to be smuggled
under a false flag never dawned upon me. I certainly
noticed with some pride that at places the boat attracted
a good deal of attention, the people firing crackers, &c. ;
Init I put it down to her smart appearance or to the
presence of a mandarin whose boat I had not observed.

I was now very busy drying, packing, and sending
off the collections I had got together, and after all were
despatched I spent the time in shooting at different places
on the banks of the river that I visited in my boat.
There is very fair sport to be obtained, wildfowl being
plentiful, but difficult to approach. Pheasants abound
in places where there is sufficient cover, and a few deer
are to be found. The weather generally was fine but
cold, and the river in the winter had run down to its
lowest level.

On November 15 a leopard suddenly appeared on

160 LEOPABD ON EIVER BANK

the bank of the river, right in the middle of a crowded
boating population. An old man foolishly attacked it
with an axe, upon which it sprang on him and severely
lacerated his head, neck, and shoulders with its claws
and teeth, but was quickly despatched before doing any
further damao-e. The old man died from the effects of
his wounds a few days after. Such a thing had never
been heard of before.

I had just finished breakfast at the time, and, seeing
a crowd, walked down to see what the matter was,
accompanied by one of the Customs staff. On seeing
me someone in the crowd declared that the beast had
escaped from my boat, whereupon I was roundly abused
by the wife of the wounded man, and in less time than
it takes to write this I was accused of having brought
down in my boat elephants, lions, tigers, and all sorts
of impossible animals. The mob quickly got so
threatening that we thought it advisable to retire with
as much speed as was consistent with dignity.

In December I left in my boat for Hankow, more
for a change than anything else, for neither Mr.
Kricheldorff nor myself had fully recovered from the
hardships of our journey to Ta-tsien-lu, and I thought
that the journey would do us both good. We went
down leisurely, and arrived at Hankow on the 29th.
Here I remained till February 4, and having previously

TELEGBAril LINE 161

sent my bocat bcack to Ichang, I went up with Mr.
Kriclielclorff in the steamer Kiang-tung . During my
stay at Hankow, being rather undecided as to whether I
should proceed again to Ta-tsien4u, I sent some collec-
tors, both entomological and botanical, there overland ;
but having decided before leaving to go there myself in
the boat, I was able to stop them by telegraph at Ichang.
The telegraph line is laid from Hankow to Ichang, then,
still following the river, to Chung-king, from which
place it goes direct to Cheng-tu. The local mandarins
are responsible for the safety of the line, and repairs
are done by workmen who are stationed at intervals.
Messages are sent in English, Chinese not being, I believe,
adapted to the purpose.

When describing my boat in a former chapter, I
mentioned that I had the cabin and topsides painted
white with the object of keeping the cabin as cool as
possible. The native boats and junks are varnished all
over with the vegetable varnish, and present a light-
brown colour. My boat was therefore a very con-
spicuous object, and, being so uncommon, very likely
to attract attention. This I found she did, and I think
that her colour was the principal cause of the attack
made at Kia-ting-fu ; and, as mentioned before, she
was scraped and varnished while waiting there.
During my stay here, however, the following letter

M

162 LETTER FBOM TAO-TAI

and enclosure, wliicli was sent to the Consul, showed
that she had attracted attention in a quarter where I
had not suspected it.

' From " Fang " Tao-tai {of Chung-king).

' Sir, — On the 1st I had the honour to receive from
H.E. the Viceroy " Ya " a despatch instructing me forth-
with to carry out the request contained in the enclosed
communication.

' I have accordingly given the requisite orders to the
deputies of this office, and beg to acquaint you with
the communication referred to.

' I have &c.'

The Viceroy 'Ya' mentioned in the above is the
Viceroy of Sze-chuen, and the enclosure is as under :

' Sir, — Wang-tsun-wen, Prefect of Chung-king, has
forwarded a representation from Chow Chow Chao
Ch'ng, magistrate of Pa Hshien, that on April 21 last
the Chiang-pu sub-prefect sent on under escort the
Englishman Pratt and the German trader Kricheldorff,
who had come to Chung-king prefecture in their small
foreign boat with a Chinese crew, and that on the 24th
they proceeded on their journey to Kia-ting-fu, saying
in reply to questions that they were purchasing goods
as thev went alono-. The Prefect submits that for

ENCLOSURE FROM VICEROY 1G3

Enolishnieu to enter Sze-clmen in a foreign boat while
the question of steam navigation is still under discus-
sion is a most rash proceeding. If at the present time,
when people and converts are mutually suspicious, the
people of Sze-chuen should assemble and stop them, and
trouble should arise, the local authorities would hardly
accept the blame of failing to afford efficient protection.
' He had therefore reported for our instructions, and
we have replied, we would write for requisite orders
to be given. With regard to the question of steam
navigation to Chung-king, no decision has yet been
come to, although officers have been sent to Ichang
to confer with the Consul. The Sze-chuenese are now
suspicious and distrustful, and popular feeling is greatly
excited. Should they at the sight of a foreign boat
collect in a mob and interfere with it, grave trouble
would surely follow, for which the local authorities
could not be held to blame. We have the honour to
request, therefore, that it be stated in the passports of
all foreigners who shall hereafter enter Sze-chuen that
they must travel by land or hire native boats, and may
not any more bring trouble on themselves by attempt-
ing to use foreign boats. This is of the last importance,
and we have written to Tsung-li Yamen to notify to
H. B. Majesty's Minister to transmit the requisite in-
structions. We beg also that you will instruct the

H 2

164 START UP BIVER

officers at places where passports are issued to act in
compliance with our request.

' (Signed) Ya, Viceroy of Sze-chuen.'

The boat was evidently taken for one of foreign
build because of her colour, and as to the statements
said to have been made by Mr. Kricheldorff and myself
that we were purchasing goods as we went along, they
were mere fabrications.

However, the Consul wrote to Sir John Walsham at
Pekin, enclosing a copy of the letter, and I also wrote
explaining matters. After I had left on a second
journey to Kia-ting-fu a reply came, saying that
H. B. Majesty's Minister considered that it was a rash
proceeding to have gone as far as Chung-king in a boat
that might be mistaken for a foreign one.

I should add that when the boat was varnished all
over she attracted no attention whatever.

Arriving at Ichang on February 8, 1890, I set to
work at once preparing for the journey up river again,
engaging trackers and crew, and seeing that a large
supply of boxes, nets, &c., were got on board, and I
left for my second trip up the river on February 18,
being determined to get to Ta-tsien-lu in time for the
earUest species.

At Huang-yang-mu, just beyond the Ichang Gorge,

SIII-rO-CIIIA 165

I saw snow still lying on the sides of the steep hills at
the back of the town. The river was now at its lowest,
and when in that state the Ta-tung Rapid is not
dangerous.

After leaving Quei-chow-fu I was suspicious of two
of the men of my crew, my l^oat having been, I thought,
maliciously put upon a rock. One of them was the
pilot, and I noticed that he frequently had disagree-
ments with the lowban. I got rid of both of them at
an early opportunity. The boat, however, was damaged,
and next morning the water was above the cabin floor.
She was soon baled out, the leak discovered and tem-
porarily stopped, permanent repairs being made at
Yeng-yang-hsien. No serious damage was done, but
the delay was annoying.

At Shi-po-chia there is a very curious pagoda,
which, instead of being built as usual on the top of
a hill, is constructed against an enormous isolated
hmestone rock about 400 yards from the river bank,
where it forms a very conspicuous object, tlie top of the
pagoda appearing just above the rock.

Chung-king was reached on March 12, and I waited
till the 17th, Mr. Cockburn very kindly inviting me to
stay with him. Here I had to change my trackers and
get an up-river crew. I also sent a collector from here
to Quei-chau, a poor but interesting province about

166 ABEIVE AT KIA-TING-FU

which very little is known. I had to leave the choice
of locality to him, and before leaving I was able,,
through the kindness of the Eesident, to have a paper
declaration pasted on his collecting boxes to the effect
that they contained no contraband articles. This saved
a deal of examination and trouble in passing from
Sze-chuen into Quei-chau.

On the 17th I left, accompanied by Mr. CockburUy
who remained with me till the 19th and then returned
to Chung-king.

March 29, 1890. — Arrived at Sui-fu, and started up-
the Min Eiver the next day- This river is very clear^
and forms a striking contrast to the muddy Yang-tze.
The current, however, is strong, and many extra trackers
had to be engaged. On April 3, heavy rain fell and a
freshet came down. This made the work still more
trpng for the trackers, and on the day after the tow
rope carried away three times, I am thankful to say
without causing any disaster.

April 7. — Arrived at Kia-ting-fu, having been pass-
ing through rapids nearly all the way from Sui-fu.

I now sent back the trackers, discharged those of
the crew that were not collectors, and left instructions
with the latter to work all likely places. As they were
now pretty well up in their work, the districts were left
to their own judgment. My boat was left in charge

WAN-NIEN-TZE 167

of the lowban, as on the former visit ; and as she
was now varnished brown Hke all the native craft,
instead of being painted white, she attracted little or
no attention and there was no troul)le given by the
authorities.

On April 10, having everything prepared for a stay
at Ta-tsien-lu, my boxes, &c., making loads for thirty-
five coolies, I sent them ofi* with orders to wait for me
at Kia-kiang, as I intended to visit Mount Omei, it
being but little out of the way. I left Kia-ting-fu on
the same day, and slept that night at Omei-hsien. This
place supplies all the priests living on Mount Omei
with food, &c., and during the winter large supplies
have to be laid in by them, as the road up the moun-
tain is blocked with snow and ice. I noticed skins
of a species of armadillo exposed for sale in the
shops here.

The next day I proceeded to Wan-nien-tze, situated
on the mountain at an elevation of o,500 feet, the road
consisting largely of series of stairs, and many temples
were passed. The name signifies ' the temple of 10,000
years.' There are many fine images in the temples
about here, but they are nearly all much too dark to
take a photograph in. In one, however, I managed to
get an excellent negative of a very large Buddha made
of clay and gilt. In a temple close b}^ which is entered

168 BRONZE ELEPHANT

through a dark archway, is an ele2:)hant cast in bronze
and of large size, quite as large as the tallest found in
nature, and- very lifelike, except that it has six tusks,
three each side. This has been cast in three horizontal
pieces. On his back is a huge lotus flower in which
is seated a gilt image of Buddha. The whole is sur-
rounded by a hexagonal stone palisading through which
there is a doorway.

The interior of the building is verj^ dark and is square
at the base, or nearly so, changing to a circular domed
roof. This was the most interesting image I saw on the
mountain. The castings must be of immense weight
and are undoubtedly of great age. Who the workmen
were, it is, I believe, impossible to find out, and also
why the figure of an elephant has been introduced, as
they are unknown in the region. I have never seen
an image of one before in China.

On stalls near the temple may be seen pieces of
crystal for sale. These are said to come from caves in
Wa-shan, and some of them contain a small quantity
of water, which much increases their value. A very
peculiar kind of tea is also sold, and is, I believe, only
found here. When prepared for use in the ordinary
Way, it is very sweet without any addition of sugar.
Long carved sticks are to be purchased to help one up
the steep ascent, and also to take away as mementos.

TIBETAN PILG2UM 1G9

The temples are very clean, and travellers are, as a rule,
permitted to sleep in them on payment of a small sum.
The priests generally are very civil and communica-
tive. Wan-nien-tze itself is buried in the forest, but
on the road up many beautiful views are obtained.
The slopes of the mountain are clothed with pines in
the upper parts, and lower down with evergreen trees
of many varieties, several species of flowering currant
(Ribes) growing in profusion underneath. Here and
there a view is obtained from the head of a deep
ravine, and the beauty of the scene impresses itself
deeply on one's memory.

At a temple close by I left four collectors with in-
structions to work the whole locality, and, later on, to
examine the mountain thoroughly up to the summit.

I found here a Tibetan whom I had met at Ta-tsien-lu
last year, and who had come with his wife and two
children to worship. The Chinese treat the Tibetans
ver}^ badly, and will not permit them to use the temples
to live in, but only allow them to worship there. This
man, therefore, after his long journey, had to camp out
with his family on the side of the mountain. He was
very intelligent, and I had some conversation with him
through an interpreter.

On April 12 I started for the summit, the road,
generally being very winding and steep and covered

170 THE ^GOLDEN SUMMIT'

in places with snow and ice. The summit was reached
at 2.45 P.M., and it was bitterly cold; but this was
not to be wondered at, for it is elevated 11,100 feet
above the sea-level. Just before reaching the top the
road passed through gloomy pine forests, and the views
down the ravines to the lower spurs were very fine
when the clouds below admitted.

The " Golden Summit,' as it is called by the Chinese,
has once had a magnificent temple erected on it, but
this is now a mass of ruins, having been destroyed by
lightning. This temple must have been constructed
entirely of bronze, as there are a large number of slabs,
pillars, and pieces of architraves lying about in a con-
fused mass, all being made of that metal. In the wooden
temple which has been erected close by, a few of the
bronze panels have been used by being let into the
walls and gilded, but all those outside seem to have no
care bestowed upon them, and are left to perish. All
these slabs are ornamented with the figure of Buddha,
as may be seen in the illustration. There is a bronze
pagoda about fifteen feet high erected on a wooden
platform close to the edge of probably the highest pre-
cipice in the world. It is not much out of the perpen-
dicular, and at least a mile in depth. The edge is
guarded by rails and chains which no one is allowed
to touch, but it is easy to see down. In the temple

SUICIDES OF PILGIilMS 171

there is a statue of Buddlia about fifteen feet high and
closed in by curtains, many incense bowls, and other
things commonly found in such places.

There were a large number of pilgrims, who worship
at all the temples on the way up. Man}^ tales are told
by the priests of tigers carrying off pilgrims, who are
never heard of again. All men so carried off are put
down as being very wicked. I may add that if this
is the case, the tigers on Mount Omt'i differ very much
from those in other parts of China that I have been
in, for everywhere else a man-eating tiger is unknown.
This mountain is considered to be the most holy in
China, and many pilgrims commit suicide every year
by casting themselves over the precipice.

The morning of April 13 was beautifully clear, and
a splendid view was obtained from the summit. Over
the clouds beneath could be seen Mount Wa to the
S.S.W., while to the northward of west the snowy range
above and beyond Ta-tsien-lu could be seen clearly
cut against the sky. The upper surface of the clouds-
appeared remarkably level, and the appearance of range
after range of mountains showing above them formed a
magnificent spectacle. I left the summit at 10 a.m., and
soon after got into mist, then rain, and, after having
travelled sixty li, reached Chang-lao-ping, still on the
mouiltain, and one of the temples of Wan-nien-tze. Here

172 YA-CHOW

I stayed the niglit. The priests differ as to the number
of temples on the mountain, some saying there are sixty-
four and others seventy-seven. They all agreed in giv-
ing the number of priests as 1,000, all, of course, being
strict Buddhists. No life is permitted to be taken on the
mountain, and before I left my collectors I saw the head
priest at Wan-nien-tze, having previously seen the chief
at the summit, and made them presents, also giving a
subscription to keep the road in repair, getting in return
permission for the collection of insects, and promising
further presents on my return.

I arrived at Kia-kiang on April 15, and found my
coolies waiting for me. I put up at an inn, which was
very dirty and uncomfortable, but had myself to blame,
for there was a much better one in the village.

Making an early start the next morning, I passed
through a country well wooded, in the valley of the Ya.
Much of the land is cultivated, fruit, Indian corn,
and poppies being grown. The wax-producing tree is
common here. I reached the village of Tsi-ko-ki in
the evening, having travelled eighty li, and on April 17
much the same description of country was traversed.

On April 18 I arrived at Ya-chow at 12.30, and
stayed only long enough to allow the head coolies to
get their silver changed into cash. The coolies in their
charge are paid at certain intervals, and there is no silver

BAMBOO BAFTS 173

sufficiently small to pay them in ; consequently, a con-
siderable number of cash have to be carried. The
quantity is always kept as small as possible because
the weight is a serious matter.

Ya-cliow is about 2,600 feet above the sea-level, and
is a well-built city. It is a busy place, all the tea for
export to Tibet being made up here into slabs. This
tea is of a coarse description, and in the slabs are, besides
the leaves, twigs and chopped bits of stem. The leaves
are not picked, but branches are chopped from the
plant and dried in the sun.

The Chinese look down upon the Tibetans, and say
that this description of tea is good enough for them,
but even the poorest Chinese will not use it. Tobacco
is also exported to Ta-tsien-lu.

Very few junks are seen on the Ya Eiver, the navi-
gation being too dangerous, but goods are sent down in
long narrow bamboo rafts. Many of these come up
loaded with samshew (native spirit) in large earthenware
jars, holding perhaps fifty gallons each and cased in
bamboo. These are stowed in a sinf>ie line rio-ht alono-

o o O

the centre of the raft, which may carry as many as
thirtv, and are brouo-ht from Sui-fu.

Passing through Ya-chow, the village of Tzu-shih-li
was reached in the evening. Here the valley of the Ya,
through which we had travelled for the last three days,

174 YUNG-CHING-HSIEN

crossing the river six times, comes to an end, and the
mountainous region commences. The weather was very
hot, and my Tibetan dog, Ja-ma, was so knocked up that
I was obhged to have him carried in a cliair by two
coolies.

On April 19 the road led up the rocky bed of a
small stream for fifteen li, the ground rising till an alti-
tude of 4,500 feet was attained. Yung-ching-hsien was
reached in the evening, and here my Yamen runners
were changed. Just before reaching the town a small
river had to be crossed. There is a large quantity of
iron manufactured in this place. The pans for the
evaporation of brine are cast, and many smaller articles
are produced both in cast and wrought iron. Going
out the following day by the west gate of the city,
I passed through a whole street of blacksmiths, and
reached Huang-ni-pu, 3,600 feet al)ove the sea, at 3.-30,
having travelled fifty li.

On the 21st the coolies struck work. They said that
they were too tired to go any further, and that the roads
had been very bad. They certainly had been hard-
worked, but not more so than they are accustomed to.
However, as there was no official in the place to appeal
to, I was forced to grant a day's rest, and the time
was spent by them in idleness and opium-smoking.

The next day, April 22, a start was made without

FEI-YUEH-LING PASS 175

any trouble, and the ascent of the pass Tai-hsiang-Ung-
kwan, 9,270 feet above the sea, was made. From the
top of the pass there is a fine view of the snowy ranges
to the westward. Ching-chi-hsien, at an elevation of
4,750 feet, was seen down below, and reached in the
evening. It is notorious for high winds, and on this
occasion its character was well kept up, for it blew a
gale and was a particularly stormy night. I found a
good inn, and the officials were civil.

On April 23, after a very fatiguing march over bad
and stony roads on a very hot day, I reached Ni-tou in
the evening. This place lies at the head of a very deep
and stony ravine. The ground is much cut up by small
watercourses, which occur in great numbers, leading
off the slopes of the mountains into the ravine. In spite
of the stony nature of the surface there is much veo-eta-
tion, and I subsequently had a collector here. I joined
the road traversed the previous year at Fu-chuang.
The Fei-yueh-ling Pass was reached at 2.30 the next
day, and at the summit I found a very fine mauve
primula in bloom. I reached Hua-lin-ping in the even-
ing and stopped for the night.

Lu-ting-chiao was passed through on April 25,
and I went on to Cha-pa, where I was most kindly
received again by the missionaries, with whom I stayed
for the night. It was a hard and dangerous march, the

176 ABBIVE AT TA-TSIEN-LU

road having been destroyed by landslips in many places
since I last passed.

On April 27 I reached Ta-tsien-lu for the second
time. Before reaching the city gates, I got a letter from
Bishop Biet telling me that a report had been spread in
the place that Mr. Kricheldorff and myself were two
foreign mandarins, and that he expected I niight have
trouble with the authorities. However, on producing
our passports we were allowed to enter without any
opposition. I found that a new mandarin had been
appointed since my last visit, who was much prejudiced
against foreigners and not so easy to get on with.

I found accommodation at the same inn I had stayed
at before, and was very busy for the next few days
paying off coolies, telling off" collectors, and unpacking
and distributing apparatus.

177

CHAPTEE XIII

TA-TSIEN-LU

Excursion to the south-east — Camp at an altitude of 12,500 feet — Rhodo-
dendron logs — Crossojjtilon — SnoAV and frost — Search for road— Lake
discovered — Salamanders — Mr. Kricheldorff goes to Mou-pin — Execu-
tion of Tibetans — Oppression of lamas — Message from Tibetan king
— Try to find plateau to the north — Larvte and pupa of Parnassius
imperator — Departure for neighbourhood of Mo-si-mien — Musk deer
— Local king's palace — Ponies and cattle — Meet Tibetan king —
King's farm — Hot springs — Pheasants and Ithaginis — Mo-si-mien
Pass — Ya-chow-kun — Medicine collectors — Camping-ground chosen
— Log hut — Lake discovered — Trip to Ta-tsien-lu — Snow-storm —
Fine trees to the southward — Pu-tzu-fong — Black currants and small
fruits — Natives excited against foreigner— Collectors at Ni-tou —
Return to Ta-tsien-lu — Petition against my return south — Arrival of
caravan from Shi-ga-tze — Pere Jeridot — Arrival of Prince Henri of
Orleans — His collections — Races — Disturbance in city — Robbery —
Breeding Crossoi^tilon — Lojjhophorus L'Jmysii — Tragoi^an — Parrots
— Eagles.

I FOUXD the same missionaries that were here last
year, and they were most kind in every way and of
great assistance to me, Bishop Biet very kindly cash-
ing my cheques.

On May 1 I left for a trip to the snowy mountains
to the south-east of Ta-tsien-lu, taking nine men and a
good tent with me. Leaving the town by the south gate
the path led up a rocky ravine, and up to an altitude of

N

178 CAMP ON 2I0UNTAIN

4,000 feet dwarf pink azaleas and anemones were par-
ticularly noticeable among many varieties of flowers.
Above this rhododendrons grew in the greatest abund-
ance and of large size, many stems being over a foot in
diameter. Their flowers were large and of many shades
of colour, and their limit was about 12,000 feet above
the level of the sea. I also saw many fine varieties of
primula growing among the rhododendrons. The tent
was pitched at an altitude of 12,500 feet, and some time
was spent before a sufficiently level piece of ground
could be found. Our fuel was logs of the largest rhodo-
dendrons, and a good fire had to be kept up, for though
we were in a sheltered place it was very cold directly
the sun went down. Crossoptilon appeared to be abun-
dant ; I saw a great many feeding on the rocky slopes
of the spurs and also heard them calling, which they
invariably do at early dawn and dusk, thus betraying
their presence.

During the night there was a fall of snow and a
•severe frost. I find that I am about two hours' journey
from the line of perpetual snow and glaciers. The days
are hot but the nights intensely cold. There are no in-
habitants within some miles. Father Soulie arrived on
the evening of May 2, and on the following day we
ascended, to find, if possible, a suitable camping-place
higher up, and also to see if a road could be found, lead-

LAKE DISCOVEBED 179

ing to the southward, through the pine forest that grows
there, by wliich I might travel in the direction of Mo-
si-mien without getting onto the reguLir track. This
I was anxious to do if possible, as I should thereby
avoid any contact with the lamas, who were, I knew, in-
clined to be troublesome, and who are found in swarms
on the roads near Ta-tsien-lu. Unfortunately I could
find no road, the southern slopes being covered with
virgin forests of pine which I was unable to penetrate.
I discovered during the day a lovely lake of the
•clearest and purest water, and very deep. On the banks
quantities of sulphur were lying. It was surrounded
on all sides except the north by precipices many
hundreds of feet deep, and had the appearance of
receiving the overflow of a lake above by a waterfall
at the south end. I can only conjecture the presence
•of such a lake, but the formation seemed strongly
to indicate it. Its elevation I made to be 14,070
feet above the sea, and its overflow supplies a tributary
of the river flowini? throusjh Ta-tsien-lu. It took
me two hours to walk round, so that a rough idea
may be formed of its size. At the north end were a
number of Tibetan prayer-sticks, with thin strings and
papers fluttering in the wind. I saw some salamanders
in the lake, and on the precipices round it were some
birds much resembling the chough.

N 2

180 EXECUTIONS

It was a beautiful place, and a splendid view was
obtained to the northward. I much regretted that I
had not got my camera with me on this occasion — the
only time I ever was there.

On May 4, leaving the tent and my men on the
mountain, I returned to Ta-tsien-lu in order to despatch
Mr. Kricheldorff to Mou-pin, a place, ten days' journey
to the E.N.E. of Ta-tsien-lu, which is but little known, Pere
David and another French missionary being, I believe,
the only Europeans that have ever visited it. I gave him
directions to establish at least four stations, and sent a
cook and interpreter and six collectors with him, fitting
him out with a good tent, as I was nearly sure he could
find no houses to live in.

Before this, on my entering the town by the south
gate, I saw five Tibetan heads hanging in bamboo
cages. These, I learned, belonged to five men who
had been executed near Litang while I was away.
The frontier seemed to be in a very unsettled state, and
I was told that on the miUtary mandarin hearing of a
disturbance, he promptly proceeded to the place and
had these five men, whom he considered to be the ring-
leaders, beheaded at once. One of the heads had
belonged apparently to a mere lad of about sixteen
or seventeen. After they had been exposed here for
a certain time, they would be sent on to Cheng-tu

OPPBESSION BY LAMAS 181

as a wariiii\u', and also to show tliat tlie sentence
had been carried out, Oheng-tu being the capital of
Sze-chuen.

The people here appeared to be much oppressed and
ground down by the lamas. These worthies form a
very considerable proportion of the population and do
no work at all. They, however, lend money to the agri-
culturists when they can, at ruinous rates of interest,
the result being that in most cases the whole of the
unfortunate borrower's property falls into their hands,
or rather into the hands of the principals of the lama-
series to which they belong. As a natural consequence
these are nearly all very wealthy. The people are also
heavily taxed upon every sort of property, and are so
poor as to be hardly able to live.

I returned to my camp on May 7 and made another
attempt to find a way to the south, but failed ; and then
moved my tent higher up on the mountain, pitching it
at an elevation of 13,000 feet. The next day I received
a message from the Tibetan king forbidding me to re-
main camped on the mountain, as it is a sacred reserva-
tion ; but before leaving I determined to try again for a
pass southward, and was again disappointed. My coolies
also were sent out, but they too failed to find any way
higher up the mountain, as there was so much snow.
The tent was pitched at the head of a valley, the sides

182 TBIP TO NOBTHWABD

of which could be seen for miles down covered with
rhododendrons in blossom of all shades of white, pink,
and red — a perfect sea of bloom. On May 10 I felt
obliged to comply with the directions contained in the
king's message, and returned to Ta-tsien-lu.

Having heard of a plateau to the north, about a
day's journey from the town, where plenty of game was
to be found, I left to try and reach it on May 12 ; but
after a hard day's march I found that I had been mis-
informed, and a Christian guide told me that such a
place as I was in search of existed four days' journey
away. I had no time, however, to proceed further, and
I had reached an elevation of 14,000 feet. The moun-
tains were covered where possible by pine forests ; but
the surface was very rocky, and there were a number of
isolated sugar-loaf shaped rocks to be seen, some being
quite 1,000 feet high. On the ridges, slightly lower,
rhododendrons were interspersed with various other
bushes.

I saw no signs of any inhabitants, and I found, among
other interesting plants, a large terrestrial orchid from
seven to eight feet high, bearing several broad opposite
leaves on the stem, and at the top a loose spike of incon-
spicuous flowers, small and of a greenish-purple colour ;
and a plant that reminded me of a gigantic marsh mari-
gold, the lower leaves being quite two feet in diameter,

RHODODENDRONS. ALTITUDE ]2,()(J0 FEET.

LEAVE FOlt MO-SI-MIEN 183

and the flower stem over four feet lii<»h and at least
four inches in diameter. The flowers were yellow and
about two inches across.

On the loth I returned to Ta-tsien-lu and then
prepared for a journey to Mo-si-mien, w^here I intended
to stay, if possible, for the summer. I found time
to search for the larva? of Parnassius imperator and got
about twenty, and one pupa. The larva is found on
a species of umbelliferous plant and is of a dark slate
colour, with ten orange spots on each side, each spot
with a black rim. It is covered wdth short grey hairs^
and when touched curls itself into a ring. Its length
is If inch. The pupa is brown, and is found attached
by a silk web to the under surface of stones.

On May 15, having made all arrangements, I left
Ta-tsien-lu for the neighbourhood of Mo-si-mien, having
fourteen coolies carrying my apparatus and a tent.
Leaving the town by the south gate, the road passes up
a valley, the west side of which is covered with pine
forest and is strictly preserved by the king. Many
musk deer are trapped in it, and the sale of the musk
they yield forms a considerable part of his income.
He allows no timber to be cut in it. Further on
the mountains are rocky and barren, or nearly so.

At a distance of about twenty li from Ta-tsien-lu
the palace of the local king is situated. This is a large.

184 MEET LOCAL KING

rambling sort of place, with walls of mud and a Chinese
tiled roof. It is built partly over a natural hot spring,
which may be seen running away from the foundations,
the steam passing out by the eaves of a part of the
palace. Close by is a large farm, where I noticed many
very good-looking ponies and a large number of cows.
These are kept for milking, and are of a much superior
class to those usually seen about the country, resembling
the Alderney in appearance, but rather larger and coarser.
I also saw about twent}'- elk, all females, in an enclosure.
There was plenty of capital grass-feed about the place,
principally on the smaller plateaux which abound in the
neighbourhood. Besides being a large farmer and horse
breeder, the king is a great sportsman, and when I met
him close to his farm he had a pack of hounds at his
heels. He is an elderly man and does not enjoy good
health, but is a great believer in the virtues of the vari-
ous hot springs which abound in the neighbourhood,
from one of which he was returning when I met him.
He was dressed in the usual costume of the Tibetans of
the better class, and had a huge scarlet umbrella carried
over his head by his attendants. On seeing me he
stopped and wished to enter into conversation, which
was accomplished by my cook acting as interpreter.

He told me that he had never heard of my arrival.
This did not exactly agree with the message I had

HOT SPRINGS 185

received when on the inuuiitain some days before, and
I never was able to iind out whether he was telling a
falsehood or whether my men had invented tlie message
said to have come from him. I strongly suspect, how-
ever, that his royal memory was rather short. He was
much interested in the gun I was carrying (an ordinary
12-bore double), and wanted to know^ how far it would
kill. He seemed to be an intelligent man, well in-
formed considering the country in which he lived, and
he had been to Pekin. He is a practically independent
chieftain, but sends tribute once in two years to Pekin,
and has frequent disputes as to questions of jurisdiction
with the Chinese officials at Ta-tsien-lu. He is wealthy,
as things go there, his riches being principally in land,
cattle, and ponies, owning several hundreds of the latter.
About ten li further on I reached a Tibetan hamlet,
being, in fact, one of his dairy-farms, where I slept in
a house owned by his Majesty, and I was lucky enough
to get delicious milk and butter, though the place
was rather dirty. The house was built in the Tibetan
fashion, of loose stones, clay being used to fill the inter-
stices, the roof being shingled with long split-pine shingles
upon which w^ere placed large stones to prevent the high
winds, so prevalent here, blowing them off. Here there
are three hot springs, each issuing from the top of a
yellowish-brown conical rock. These cones have evidently

18G PHASIANUS DECOLLATUS

been formed by the continued incrustation of the
minerals contained in the water, the largest being about
fifteen feet high, and the other two slightly less. The
water issuing from them is very hot, and has a very
offensive odour, resembling decaying sea-weed. The
three springs unite and form a stream, which runs
through the valley, a black slime accumulating on its
edges in which green aquatic plants grow even when
the water is still quite warm. The king has a wooden
bath built round with stones here, and it is filled by
means of a bamboo pipe leading to the top of one of
the cones.

Starting early the next morning (May 16) the ascent
became more steep, and the stunted vegetation and
scarcity of even pines soon showed, if there were
no other indications, that a high elevation was being
reached. Small grassy plateaux, however, were frequent,
and the Tibetan pheasant [Phasianus decollatus) appeared
to be very common. I shot several, and noticed also
that a species of Ithaginis was ver}- common, as they
were constantly running across the path. They are,
however, of not much use for food, being very tough
and having an unpleasantly strong flavour. Just before
reaching the summit of the pass I noticed a very beau-
tiful dwarf blue iris, and a little higher up I found
patches of snow. It was bitterly cold, and on reaching-^

or THE

YA-CHOW-KUN 187

the top I made the elevation to be 12,800 feet above
sea-level. Every winter lives are lost in this pass, for
though poles are put up to mark the track, if a snow-
storm should come on it is very easy to lose the way,
the pass not being just a passage over a ridge, but the
road leads right across a depression about three miles
across, called by the coolies, ' the cup.' Any deviation
from the path here would put them in deep snow, from
which they could only with the greatest difficulty
extricate themselves. On commencing the descent, in
most disagreeable weather, snow and sleet falling heavily,
I was glad to reach after a time a place named Ya-chow-
kun, where there is a rest-house frequented principally
by the Chinese collectors of medicine. There were
nearly fifty of them when I arrived, and a huge fire was
burning in the middle of the place, fed with logs quite
two feet in diameter. There was no chimney and the
inside was black with smoke ; the heat was, however^
very comforting, and I found that there was a small
room built ofi at one end which I appropriated to my
own use. The house, though built strongly and on a
level piece of ground, had been blown much out of the
perpendicular, and had it not been supported by struts
on one side would certainly have fallen. The principal
room was about sixty feet long by thirty broad, and
in it the medicine collectors lived and slept. Just out-

188 CHOICE OF CAMPING GBOUND

side the door was a nauseating heap of all manner of
filth, the accumulation of years. The medicines collected
here are rhubarb, TcJiong-tsau [Sphceria sinensis), a
plant the root of which bears an almost exact resem-
blance to the body of a caterpillar, and pey-mou
[Fritillaria Roylii), a small bulb about the size of a
marble, to which tonic principles are attributed.

The next day I started to find a suitable place for
camping in the neighbourhood, and after having crossed
a small stream opposite the house by means of a log
bridge, I found a path gradually ascending through
virgin pine forest, ending at last at an abandoned clear-
ing about twenty li from Ya-chow-kun. I saw at
once that it was a very suitable place for camping,
and I especially wanted a clear place in order to be able
to sugar at night for moths. Near by was a small lake,
the banks of which were clothed with rhododendrons.
The pine trees round had a beautiful lichen growing
on them of a pea-green colour, which hung from the
limbs and branches in graceful festoons. The elevation
was 12,000 feet above the sea. I sent back and had
aU my baggage brought up, the tent being pitched as
soon as possible. The climate being very damp, I saw
that it would be almost impossible to preserve specimens
unless a house was built, and I set my men to work to
erect one the day following. It was built of logs after

.c-

DISCOVERY OF LAKE 189

the manner of the log huts of North America, the
smaller trees being cut clown and notched near the
ends, which are then fitted over one another. One side
was built higher than the other, so as to have a lean-to
roof with a good slope. This, being well covered with
split-pine shingles, kept the wet out perfectly. I even
went so far as to have glass windows made out of spoilt
photographic plates ; and I insisted on having a wooden
chimney built, though my men were very averse to it
and wished to have the room always full of smoke and
allow it to escape as it best could through the roof.
This hut was about twenty feet by fifteen feet, and
was, when finished, very comfortable. It took about a
fortnight to complete, and then a fire was kept burning
day and night drying botanical -papers and specimens.

On the lake I noticed some yellow ducks of the same
species that is common on the Yang-tze, and in the
forest there was a woodpecker, speckled black and
white w4th a red crest. I saw but few butterflies, the
weather being so cold, and those were mostly of the
genus Pieris.

On May 20 1 went out in a north-easterly direction,
and ascended to an elevation of 15,200 feet above the
sea. I found a lake at this altitude, and collected a
good many beetles from under the stones. I was rather
surprised to find them in such numbers so close to the

190 FINE VIEW

line of perpetual snow. About here is a great place
for the medicine collectors, and I found a fine species of
wild onion of good flavour growing in moist ground.
There were also many lilies of various species, but none
in bloom. I took some photographs from this place.

One night I noticed that the tent was leaking through
the drip from a pine tree falling on it, and I told a
coolie to cut it down and to be sure to have a rope
made fast to clear it of the tent in its fall. He cut the
tree down but took no precaution, the consequence
being that it fell right across the ridge pole, and had it
not been for a tree on the other side, against which it
fell, everything in the tent must have been smashed.
As it was, a good deal of damage was done ; but I only
mention this to show how careless these people are.

On May 23 I received a letter from Father Soulie,
telling me that two of my collectors had come in from
Wa-ssu-kou, and were in want of more collecting boxes
^nd a larger cyanide bottle. I was, therefore, obliged
to return to Ta-tsien-lu to see to their requirements.
Crossing the pass, the weather being fine and clear,
splendid views were obtained both to the south, over
the forest-clad valley as far as the eye could reach
b)eyond Mo-si-mien, and to the north, as far as the snow-
clad mountains beyond Ta-tsien-lu. To the left was a
-conical-shaped mountain covered with snow — a most

DEAD HORSE 191

conspicuous object. Descending to the valley small
plateaux are constantly passed, covered with rich grass
in which many buttercups are seen.

Having given the collectors what the}^ required, I
started southward again on May 25, and slept that
night at the dairy-farm I had before visited. I was
somewhat disconcerted at finding that a very dirty
lama was to share the only room with me, but there
■was no choice. He was ver}- busy chanting prayers
(the only thing they ever do), and his accent seemed to
remind me of Italian.

Leaving at daylight I had a stifi" walk to the top of
the pass, and just after j^assing the summit I came to a
horse, evidently just dead, lying on the j)ath with a
bridle on. I could never find out w^ho his owner had
been or how he came there, but I strongh^ suspect that
there had been foul play. I reached camp in the even-
ing, and during the night there was a heavy storm of
thunder and lightning accompanied by hail and snow.

May 31 . — Snowing very fast, the ground covered and
the branches of the trees loaded with snow, looking much
more like midwinter than three weeks from midsummer.

The first of June was a fine day, but the snow lay
thick on the ground and light fleecy clouds floated in
the air. I managed to ascend to about 15,000 feet,
and collected in the sheltered spots some beetles

192 HEAVY SNOW-STOEM

from under the stones. Next day I collected a few
butterflies.

Jime 3. — I took a walk of about twenty-five li to the
southward. The path led through a forest of magnifi-
cent pine trees as straight as an arrow, many being-
three feet in diameter. They would make splendid
timber if there was any use for it in the place where it
grows, but there are no roads or means of transporting
such large trunks. In places the rhododendrons were
very beautiful, and grow larger than at the higher
elevations. Oak trees, several species of beech, larch,
limes, walnut, stunted bamboo, and many evergreens
are also plentiful. The bark of the pines was covered
with lichen and ferns. I returned to camp in the
evening.

June 5. — A heavy snow-storm and bitterly cold, all
the bloom being cut ofi" the rhododendrons. Eeally
terrible weather, and like a Canadian winter. In the
evenincc there was a foot of snow on the ground. A
coolie came in during the day with the news that the
road to Ta-tsien-lu was blocked with snow, and that the
people at Mo-si-mien, having heard from the medicine
collectors that there was a foreigner residing in the
district, attributed the severe weather to his presence.
They being much lower down the valley had heavy
sleet-storms instead of snow.

Of THE

PU-TZU-FONG 19;^

The coolie also told me tluit^ the horse that had been
killed near the top of the pass had been almost entirely-
devoured by leopards.

The snow-storm continued till June 9, on which day
there was a rapid thaw. Before this set in there were
three feet of snow on the ground, and on the 12tli, the
weather appearing to be more settled, I made a trip to
the southward, and, again passing through the forest, I
crossed a tributary of the Tung Eiver by a wooden
bridge at Ta-chiao 8,000 feet above the sea. Even at
this lower elevation there were not many species of
lepidoptera out yet, the recent snow-storm having doubt-
less retarded their appearance. I arrived at Pu-tzu-
fong in the evening, where there is a hut which gives
a bare shelter, but not much more, to the medicine
collectors who frequent the neighbourhood.

This appeared to be a very favourable spot for col-
lecting later on — probably next month would be a very
good time — and I resolved to have a station here. I
therefore left the botanical collector with directions to
gather specimens of plants during the day and to sugar
for moths at night. He had two men under his orders
for day-work with the lepidoptera.

On my way to this place I noticed some black currant
bushes, which grew to a height of nearly eighteen feet,
bearing bunches of fruit at least a foot long, the berries

o

194 WILD FRUITS

being a])oiit the size of tlie ordinary black currant and
having a fair fia\'our. They were Ijorne thinly on the
bunches, and the whole plant had the peculiar odour of
the common kind.

A species of dwarf rul)us, about six inches high and
bearing a single yellow berry of excellent flavour, was
common, the fruit being often eaten by my coolies and
myself when on the march. They are also gathered
by the Tibetan women and sold at Ta-tsien-lu. Wild
strawberries and small wild gooseberries of no value
were also common.

While at Pu-tzu-fong I heard that all sorts of
rumours were abroad about my presence Ijeing the
cause of the severe weather, and that the inhabitants
of Mo-si-mien were so excited on the subject, and so
furious with me, that it would be unsafe to visit the
place. I had therefore reluctantly to abandon my
project of seeing it, and the next day I returned to
Celestial Cottage, as I called ray hut on the hills.

Before making the trip just mentioned, I had sent
two collectors down to Pu-tzu-fong, one being a capital
man whom I thought I could trust. He was pilot of my
boat, and had the year before done very well indeed,
<-ollecting at Chin-kou-ho. After ten days' stay, how-
ever, they came back, saying that the natives would
not allow them to collect, but that they knew of a place

SUPEBSTITION OF NATIVES 195

where splendid collections could be made. I allowed
them to go, giving them the necessary money and appara-
tus. Some little time afterwards I heard that they had
tramped all the way back to Ni-tou, where they were
spending their time and my money in opium-smoking,
there being also a further attraction in the shape of a
Chinese damsel. Of course I recalled them immediately ,
but it was most annoying to have the valuable time so
wasted.

On June 14 I noticed that the medicine collectors
were all absent, instead of being scattered over the hills
as usual. This, together with what my men had told
me, looked suspicious, so I decided to go to Ta-tsien-lu
and see the magistrate, as perhaps he might be able to
make things go more smoothly. Leaving camp at noon,
I crossed the pass, and on the north side, at an elevation
of 10,000 feet, and where the ground had lately been
covered with snow, I found a plant in bloom much
resembling a gloxinia, the flower being crimson.

I reached the city in the evening and went to the
inn, where I found quarters.

On June 17 the mandarin received a despatch at
9 P.M., which he sent on to Mgr. Biet, from whom I
heard the contents. It was a petition from Mo-si-mien,
signed by a large number of the inhabitants, and also
by the medicine collectors, who had left the hills foi

o 2

196 ABRIVAL OF CABAVAN' '

the purpose, stating that my presence had caused the
severe weather lately prevalent, and requesting that I
miffht be ordered to leave the district at once. It seemed
to be a curious exhibition of ignorance and superstition ;
but the mandarin had no friendl}' feelings towards
foreigners, so that it was useless to try to live in the
hut any longer, the mandarin refusing to allow me to
remain long out of the city. I had, however, gained
some knowledge of the country, and could send my men
to any places that I considered likely, as the natives
raised no objections to their living and collecting where-
ever they were sent.

On June 19 the annual caravan arrived from Shi-
ga-tze, near the frontier of Sikkim and the capital of
the province of Tishulumbo, the town being now crowded
with Tibetans. This caravan travels by the way of
Tsiamdo, this route being chosen as it affords sufficient
pasture for the large number of animals that are made
use of. They consist of horses and the cross-bred
animal between a yak and a cow. I could form no idea
of the number employed as the greater part were in
camp, some being miles away from the city. This is
necessary in order to get sufficient feed. They bring
quantities of goods, principally narrow, striped woollen
cloth, and very thick woollen rugs, which are much used
for saddle-cloths. The colours are green, red, and yellow

^ or THt
UNIVERSITY

Of

DESTBUCTION OF MISSION AT BATANG 107

of subdued shades. Tlie caravan usually stays about a
month, and they take back Ya-chow brick tea in exchange
for their goods. The journey from Shi-ga-tze takes five
months. They brought news that a French prince, with
several Europeans and a strong escort, had arrived at
Batang on his way to this city.

A few days later I had a message from Mgr. Biet
that a European had arrived from Tungalow, three days'
journey west. On going to the palace, I found Pere
Jeridot, who seemed from his emaciated appearance to
have led a life of great privation. With the exception
of the Fathers here, he had not seen a European for
thirteen years. He spoke a little English with ;an excel-
lent pronunciation, but told me that he had forgotten
most of the language. From Tungalow there is hardly
any communication even with this place, and all letters
have to be sent secretly by means of converts who trade
between the two places.

Originally he was at Batang, but the mission build-
ings were burned by the Tibetans, and everything, in-
cluding a valuable library, destroyed. He and another
Father had to return to Ta-tsien-lu, and after some time
got a promise of indemnity from the Chinese Govern-
ment, which, however, has never been paid, there being
a dispute as to who w^ere liable to pay, the Chinese or
the Tibetans. They then got a pass permitting them to

198 ARRIVAL OF PRINCE HENRI OF ORLEANS

return to Batang, but were stopped at Tungalow by
the military mandarin, who refused to allow them to
proceed any further. They, however, declined to re-
turn, and established a mission there.

Mgr. Biet tells me that there is a missionary living-
near the frontier of Yunnan who, unless he saw Mr.
Cooper when he passed through, has seen no European,
with the exception of a brother missionary now and
then, at long intervals, for the last thirty years.

June 24. — Prince Henri of Orleans arrived from
Litang and took up his quarters at the inn I was stay-
ing at. He had travelled right across Tibet from
Kuldja by way of Lob nor, Tengri nor and Batang,
having been close to Lhassa, which city he was unable
to enter. He was accompanied by two Europeans,
Messrs. Bonvalot and He' Deken, the latter belonging to
the Belgian mission in Mongolia, and who spoke the
Chinese language fluently. He had a large number
of followers and pack animals, having made large
natural history collections on the journey. Though, as
I said before, he was unable to enter Lhassa, he
received a very valuable present from the Grand Lama
which was sent out of the city to him.

The next day Mgr. Biet had a dinner party, to
which I was invited, I found Pere Jeridot and
Fathers Dejean and Soulie, Prince Henri, Messrs.

rONY BACES 190

Jlonvalot and De' Deken, a party of eii^dit Europeans,
cf-rtainly the largest number ever asseniljled before at
Ta-tsien-lu. IViiice Henri informed me that lie and his
party had suffered severe hardships on theii* journev.
The cold in the high and previously unexplored passes
between Lob nor and Tengri nor was intense, and he
had lost two men from the combined effects of frost-
Ijites and the rarified condition of the atmosphere. He
had taken ten months in crossing from Kuldja, and,
together with the whole of his party, was much fatigued
by his long journey. The next day he showed me some
of the skins he had collected. Among them was one
of a magnificent yak. and several of bears and antelopes.
He had also the head of a white antelope with spiral
horns, probably a new species. He had camels as far
as Lob nor, from which place he despatched home,
by way of Kuldja, the collections already made.

June 29. — Great excitement in the town to-day, as
the Tibetan king has his annual race meeting. These
races begin early in the morning, between five and six
o'clock, and last all day. The riders are boys, who wear
distinguishing colours as in more civilised countries.
The start is made on the hills above the town — perhaps
a thousand feet higher — and the boys and ponies race
down the steep descent and through the town as hard
as they can go. All the inhabitants of the city turn

200 TBOUBLE WITH OFFICIALS

out to look on, the races being one of the great events
of the year. The kini^-, I was informed, gave three
prizes, Imt the racing- went on all day, a large number
of ponies being made use of.

Juli/ 2. — Yesterday Prince Henri sent his interpreter
(Mons. De' Deken) to the Yamen, with a request to see the
mandarin. The mandarin refused to grant an interview,
and upon the request being repeated, again declined.
He then spread a report that the interpreter had come
to the Yamen for the purpose of robbing the treasury.
This, of course, caused great excitement among the lamas
and inhabitants, which was increased when it became
known that he (the mandarin) had sent to the military
mandarin for soldiers to arrest the Europeans. This the
military mandarin refused to do, and the Tibetan king
being applied to for the same purpose, also refused to
send any men, saying that he did not believe it and that
the mandarin was a liar. Tlie king was always on
bad terms with the mandarin, and to find him without
support from the military authorities was exactly
what he wanted.

Things, however, began to look very queer and I
■did not know how they were going to turn out. A
mob had collected, and they are in China always danger-
ous. A trifle mio-ht incense them against the foreigners
and cause a general attack to be made. In the evening

BOBBERY OF SILVER 201

things quieted down ;i little, and on July 3 it was
reported that the mandarin had sent a courier to
Gheng-tu for instructions. The missionaries tell me
that they have never known such anxious times. The
people appear to have become qnietei-. Had this mob
assembled at places like Chung-king or Kia-ting-fu, all
the foreigners would probably have been massacred^
but here the people are all traders and more peaceably
inclined.

July 16. — Last night Prince Henri was robbed oi)
silver to the value of 300 taels, and various other
articles, the thieves effecting an entrance by a window
after having climbed over the wall of the inn courtyard.
The mandarin, on being informed of the theft, acted in
a very half-hearted manner, and none of the stolen
property was recovered. The Prince had no passport,
and therefore no responsibility rested with the mandarin.
If he had been properly provided with one, the formei*
trouble would probably not have arisen.

Soon after I arrived at Ta-tsien-lu I found that, by
taking trouble, I could procure eggs of the Crossoptilon
Tibetanum, and I thought that by getting these hatched
out under fowls, I might be able to take some young
birds of this remarkably fine species home, considering
that they were well-adapted for acclimatization in ;3,
European country. I accordingly sent out collectors to

202 BREEDING CEOSSOPTILON

the most likely places, and they brought in at different
times about a hundred eggs, which are of a light olive
dun colour. Broody hens were procured, not without
difficulty, and these, with clutches of eggs, were dis-
tributed among such of the native converts as had suitable
places for rearing the young birds. The heathen natives
could not be trusted with such things, being much more
rough and less reliable. In the end I got a good per-
centage hatched out, and fifty-three were alive at Kia-
ting-fu, having been carried down from Ta-tsien-lu by
coolies. Being so young, the journey was too severe,
and many were in a bad state of health from the over-
land journey. Losses were heavy going down the river^
and I only succeeded in getting five home alive. I put
this heavy mortality down to the birds being too young
to travel. If I could have left them tiU the next year, I
feel confident I should have succeeded in bringing^
nearly all home alive. The year before, Mgr. Biet gave
me an adult specimen that had been hatched and reared
in his aviary, and this bird stood the passage perfectly
well. It is, with the others I brought home, now in the
gardens of the Eoyal Zoological Society, Eegent's Park.
Another bird, a specimen of which I brought home
alive, is the LopJiophoims IJhuysii. This magnificent
species inhabits high altitudes near the snow line, and has-
never before been brought alive to Europe. They are

LOPHOPHORUS L' HOYS 1 1 203-

by no means common or easy to find, but when once seen
do not appear to be at all timid and may be approached
to within a few feet. Two were brought me, having
been snared by the leg near Wan-Tung, in the
mountains ; one, unfortunately, died, but the other
travelled home safely, and is now in the Zoological
Society's gardens. I tried to procure their eggs but
failed, natives bringing me eggs of Ithaginis^ which they
assured me were those of the Lophophorus ; but, luckily,
I had found the nest of the Ithaginis myself, and could
easily recognise their cream-coloured eggs thickly
sprinkled with small spots of brown, and I was not^
therefore, to be taken in.

These birds are very fond of the small peymou bulb^
and, in places where it is plentiful, scratch it out of the
soil. The natives, if they find a place much used, and
where a fair quantity of the bulbs still remain, set a
number of nooses pegged down and frequently capture
the birds by the leg.

Some adult Crossoptilun that had been snared were-
brought to me ahve, but these all died. They roost in
large companies in the forest, and if a native finds a
roosting-place and has a gun, he lights a fire under-
neath, and can then shoot every bird singly, they
appearing to be dazed by the light of the fire, and
taking no notice of the report of the gun.

204 EAGLES AND VULTURES

In the winter these birds come much lower down in
search of food, and are easier of approach.

The tragopan (Cmorms temminki) is found in the
district, but is not often seen, as it inhabits the ahnost
impenetrable pine forest, I brought home a specimen
alive that I purchased from a native who had caught iti
Monkeys are seen in troops in the Mo-si-mien forest^
and Mgr. Biet informed me that a very large monkey
or ape occurs in the mountains of South Tibet, and that
it is probably a new species.

Prince Henri had specimens of a green parrot which
he found to be very numerous at Batang. As this is
in nearly 30° N. Lat,, I should think it was the furthest
north that they are found. Father Soulie, who has been
there, tells me that they fly about very plentifully in
the suburbs.

In an excursion north of Ta-tsien-lu, I noticed an
eagle's nest among the cliffs which evidently contained
young birds. It was in a very precipitous place and
absolutely unapproachable. Vultures may be commonly
seen soaring among the mountains. The way in whiok
they sail in the air for hours together, with but seldom
any apparent motion of the wings, is very remarkable^ '

• I ;

205

CHAPTER XIV

MOUIS'T OMEI

Prepare to leave Ta-tslen-lu — Take charge of Pi'ince Henri's collection —
Collectors left behind — Departure — Village destroyed by landslip —
Lu-ting-chiao — Sick woman — New road — Pass Chih-pan-kow, Fung-
ya-j)ing and San-yan-kwan — Arrive at Yo-so-po — Tai-hsiang-ling-
kwan Pass — Hiiang-ni-po — Shih-chia-chiao — ^Ya-chow-fa — Orders to
travel by Hung-ya-hsien — Heavy rain — Eobbery at Tsi-ho-kia —
Hung-ya-hsien — Landlord in trouble — Kia-kiang — Kia-ting-fu — De-
part for Omei-shan — Wan-nien-ssu — Summit of Mount Omei — Glory
of Buddha — Temples easily destroyed by fire — Quantity of bronze on
mountain — Iron suspension bridges.

July 18. — Finding that I could do nothing more in
Ta-tsien-lu, as my movements were so hampered by the
mandarin, who, though everything was now perfectly
quiet, refused to allow me to return to my log cabin, I
determined to leave and make a stay on Mount Omei,
where I was anxious to see how my men were getting
on. Prince Henri of Orleans had determined to return
by way of Yunnan to Hanoi, and as by this route he
would have greater difficulty in transporting his collec-
tion of natural history specimens than by the river
route to Shanghai, he asked me to take charge of them
as far as Hankow, at which place he wished them given

20G DEPABTUBE FBOM TA-TSIEN-LU

over to the French Consul. Upon my deciding to take
them, he sent me eighteen coolie loads. These, with
twenty coolie loads of my own, formed the total that I
started with. I was now very busy packing up all the
collections and getting in those from the stations outside
the town. My collectors had orders to leave a month
after I had gone, bring all they had found with them,
and meet me at Kia-ting-fu. I also sent two men to a
place called Ho-kow, ten days' journey west of Ta-tsien-
lu, on the road, and about half way to Litang, which is
situated in a valley nearly surrounded by lofty plateaux,
where I expected they would find some interesting and
rare insects.

Many of my boxes were covered with raw hide by
the Tibetans, who are very expert at this work. They
take a hide from a freshly killed animal and fit and sew
this over the boxes in a particularly neat way with the
hair inside. When the hide dries, it shrinks and
hardens, forming a splendid and almost indestructible
•covering.

July 21. — All being ready, I left Ta-tsien-lu after
Tiaving thanked Mgr. Biet and the Fathers for their
kindness and said good-bye, and arrived at Wa-ssu-kou
in the evening.

July 22. — A village was passed to-day situated on the
side of a valley near the banks of the Tung, which had

EFFECTS OF LANDSLIP 207

been nearly destroyed by a landslip, or, rather, mudslip,
since my last journey through. Quite half the houses had
])een utterly destroyed, and many of those remaining
were filled with a deposit of mud and stones. It may
seem difficult to understand how these houses are thus
filled with rubbish, because one would be apt to think
they would be thrown down ; but the Chinese build their
houses in a different manner to what we are accustomed
to see, for they first get uprights of timber fixed in the
ground, upon which plates are laid and the roof is built
upon them. Then the walls are built between the
uprights, and are composed of stone, brick, or mud, ac-
cording to the locality and the means of the builder.
When a flood or a landslip occurs and reaches a
liouse so built, the first thing to go is one of the walls,
and if they are not all demolished, a large deposit takes
place, naturally, within the building. On my journey
westward a hill had to be descended, liere a dry water-
course was crossed by a bridge, and an ascent made on
the other side. Now there was a nearly level road
across, and the bridge was either swept away or buried.
Hundreds of acres of level and cultivated ground had
been covered with earth and stones to a depth of seven
or eight feet, and all the crops destroyed. What had
been a scene of prosperity was now one of desolation,
and the mischief had probably been caused by the sudden

208 CHANGE OF ESCOBT

melting of the snow above, which had lain much later
than usual on account of the severity of the weather.
When the warmth came and caused a sudden thaw, the
water thus freed brought the earth and stones down.
The Tung Eiver had evidently been quite lately much
swollen, but was now lower.

The mail man from Chung-king to Ta-tsien-lu was
passed to-day, and though I felt certain that there were
letters for me, I could not get them as they were in a
sealed packet directed to Mgr. Biet.

Lu-ting-chiao was reached in the evening, and here
my escort was changed, those that had accompanied
me going back to Ta-tsien-lu and others coming on as
far as Chin-chi-hsien.

July '2d. — The road travelled over to-day was in a
very bad state, much damage having been done l3y the
late rains. This, however, is nothing more than what
one may expect where the roads are mere tracks that
are only kept open at all by the traffic that passes along.
As a rule, no attempt is made to form what we should
consider to be a road. Arrived at Hua-hng-ping in the
evening, the coolies arriving much later, having had a
hard day's work.

July 'M. — To-day, when on the march, I met a man
and woman, the latter evidently seriously ill, apparently
suffering from dysentery. I could do nothing except

NEW EOUTE 200

give her a dose of chlorodyne, wliicli I thought might
do her good. They both appeared to be very grateful
for the medicine. In the evening Ni-tou was reached.

July 25. — After two hours' march, I left the road
by which I had travelled before, and turning to the
left passed up a fine open valley and through highly
cultivated land. The surface was rolling, the soil
evidently very fertile and of a red colour, with granite
boulders cropping up in places. Much Indian corn
was growing, and clumps of walnut trees were plentiful.
The road was gradually ascending, and the summit of a
ridge 6,500 feet above the sea was reached at 10 a.m.
Descending at first l)y a road that was trying in places,
the village of Chili-pan-kow was reached and a short
halt made. Then passing through Chih-pan-kow and
Fung-ya-ping, both villages, the road ascended again
till a second ridge was reached, called San-yan-kwan,
7,350 feet above the sea. From here I descended to
Yo-so-po (6,250 feet), where I intended to stay the night.
Chin-chi-hsien is seen from here, being about three miles
off in the valley. I believe that this route has never
been taken before by a European.

I shot a bird here that I had never seen in China
before ; it was black, with breast and rump of an intense
scarlet. During the day I passed coolies carrying tea
from Ya-chow-fu to Ta-tsien-lu. This is a shorter but

p

210 TAI-HSIANG-LING-KWAN PA^S

more mountainous road than that usually taken, which
makes a larger bend to the southward, but which had
been washed away in places lately and rendered impas-
sable, or nearly so.

July 26. — Left Yo-so-po at daylight. The road
descends at first and a stream is crossed, a high range
has then to be ascended by a very steep and winding
road, the sides of the mountains being covered with
low scrub. Among the bushes composing it I noticed
many species of berberis and a dwarfed holty. At Yang-
yung-min the main road is joined again, and at 9.30 a.m.
I arrived at Pan-jo, 8,100 feet above the sea. The
road continues to ascend until the top of the pass, Tai-
lisiang-ling-kwan, 9,270 feet above the sea, is reached.
Many asters and primulas were growing and, not far
from the top, hydrangeas. The scenery was very fine,
■and, looking down on the forest which covered the sides
of the mountain, some trees could be seen bearing white
and pink blossoms, forming a pleasant contrast to the
'sea of green in which they appeared to be placed. Some
of the trees were of large size and there were many
species. The whole was a scene of very varied vegeta-
tion, and a happy collecting -place for a botanist.
Streams of the clearest water rushing down courses on
the sides of the mountains, added a freshness to the
view. In the evening Huang-ni-po was reached. The

YA-CHOW-FU 211

roads during the day had l^een rough, but shady in many
places, and just before the haUing-phxce was arrived
at, two small suspension bridges were passed over.

July 27. — Arrived at Shih-chia-chiao, a small village
seventy li from Ya-chow-fu. The mosquitoes were very
troublesome here.

July 28. — Starting at daylight, the road commenced
almost immediately to descend. Man}^ coolies were
passed, those going westward being loaded with tea in
paos or slabs, tobacco, coarse cloth, small china basins,
grass sandals, salt, rice and several kinds of paper.
Those we overtook going east were carrying iron
utensils, probably from Yung-ching-hsien, medicines and
€oal of apparently good quality. A ridge 3,750 feet
above the sea was crossed during the day and Ya-chow-
fu reached at 6.30 P.M.

July 29. — This morning I was visited by a custom-
house official, who brought a host of underlings with
him. His business was to inform me that orders had
been received from Cheng-tu directing that I was to
travel by Hung-ya-hsien. After changing coolies, dis-
missing those from Ta-tsien-lu and hiring fresh ones, I
found that the loads had to be altered to suit a different
system of carrying.

A start was made at 11.30 a.m. and a tributary of
the Ya was crossed by myself and a few coolies when a

r 2

212 FLOODED BIVEBS

terrific thunderstorm, accompanied by a deluge of rain,
caused the river to rise so rapidly that the boat could
not return to the other side. I found shelter in a
hut that luckily happened to be near. The numerous
watercourses filled almost immediately, and poured
torrents into the already swollen river. Later in the
day the weather cleared, and I pushed on to a village
near the Ya Eiver and about fifteen li from Ya-chow-fu.
The remainder of the coolies with baggage had been
unable to cross, so I was forced to leave them behind.
I heard that a sampan had been swamped in the river
and that several lives had been lost.

July 30. — The road now led across the river, which
was so swollen as to be dangerous to cross, it having
rained heavily during the night. At about noon it sub-
sided a little and the passage across was made.

Directly afterwards a heavy rain stopped all progress,
as the coolies could not work. Shelter was found in a
hut in a small village called Cha-pa built on a steep
rocky knoll on the river bank and reached by steps cut
in the rock. The banks here are precipitous but
vegetation is seen in every possil)le place on the face of
the cliffs.

July 31. — A thick mist in the morning. After
travelling fifteen li, the country became hilty and rice
was cultivated in terraces. The river had now to be

ROBBERY AT TSI-HO-KIA 213

crossed and the passage was dangerous, the current
being very strong and with many whirlpools. The
river was crossed twice more to-day, and in the even-
ing a halt was made for the night at a village called
Tsi-ho-kia.

August 1. — In the morning I discovered that a
robbery had taken place during the night, a case con-
taining bird skins having been stolen. This placed me
in an awkward position, as the landlord wanted me to
remain till he could catch the thief, l)ut I was anxious
to report the matter at Hung-ya-hsien and started at
8.30. Wlien the landlord found that I was determined
to go, he, with the object of being the first to report,
started before me. I had not gone far when one of the
Yamen runners came up with the box that had been
stolen and which had been found in a field close to the
inn. It had been covered with hide at Ta-tsien-ln, and
the thief no doubt thought that it contained musk. A
small hole had been cut in the lid, and upon the con-
tents being found to l)e only bird skins, it was thrown
away. I was very glad to recover it, for it contained,
among others, the skin of a Lophophorus L'huysii, and
none of them were damaged. After two hours journey
the Ya was crossed and Hung-ya-hsien, on the left bank,
entered. Here my passport was copied. I found the
landlord locked up. When he heard that the stolen

214 ABBIVAL AT KIA-TING-FU

property had been recovered he cLamoured to be set
free, but the authorities would not listen to him. It
was not enough they said for the propert}^ to be found,
the thief must be found before he could be released.
When I left he was still in custody, and I have no
doubt that before he got his liberty he was squeezed for
some thousands of cash.

The innkeepers do not seem to have a very happy
time of it, for they are made responsible for robberies"
committed on their premises, and when officials pass they
have to put them up for next to nothing.

Crossing again to the right bank of the Ya I met a
French missionary going to Hung-j^a-hsien, but in the
rapid stream there was no time for anything but a short
salute. Arrived at Kia-kiang at 9 p.m.

August 2. — To-day some very fine trees allied to the
banyan were passed. I measured one of the largest
and found the circumference of the trunk to be 36 ft.
I had. sent a messenger on ahead to make arrangements
for the storage of the collection belonging to Prince
Henri till a boat could be hired to take them down the
river. On arriving at Kia-ting-fu I went on board my
boat and found my collectors suffering from fever and
ague brought on by the great heat.

I was also in a very poor state of health, owing to
hard work, and the insufficiency and poverty of the

LEAVE FOE OMTH-SHAN 215

food I had been ul)le to obtain, and an at lack ol'dysenleiy
at Ta-tsieii-lu had left me m a weak state. Indian-corn
cake, rice, and occasionally eggs were the food upon
which I had Uxed for months. Beef and pork were
procurable, it is true, at times at Ta-tsiendu, but the
former, being the flesh of worn-out beasts of burden,,
was so tough as to be uneatalde, and as for the pork,
no European who has seen the scavenging done by the
pigs in towns, would I imagine care to eat it. In the
country it is curious to note the difference, for there the
pigs are kept very clean and most carefully fed by their
owners.

I should mention that my boat was not moored near
the city, but al)out ten li l)elow it, and close to the right
bank of the river, on which were growing some remark-
ably large and graceful clumps of bamboo, which fur-
nished a most welcome shade during the day. The
nights were, however, very hot at this season of the year,,
and sleep difficult to obtain on account of the perse-
cution of a small sand-fly which principally attacked
the feet. The bites caused a severe irritation which
lasted for about a week.

On August 6 I left at 9,30 a..m. for Omei-shan,,
where I hoped to be able to spend several days in more
fully exploring the temples than was possible in ni}''
previous short visit, and also to see how the collector^^

216 WA N-NIEN- SS U

had got on with their work. During the day I travelled
fifty li, and slept at a small village twenty li from Omei-
hsien. Passinjr throuoh the latter town on the next
<lay I reached Wan-nien-ssu in tlie evening, having
traversed a highly cultivated valley where much rice
is grown. Dotted about were small patches of ground
rising slightly above the dead level of the paddy fields,
on which clumps of trees were growing, and beneath
their shade the farmhouses were l^uilt. I found com-
fortable lodgings in a temple. On August 8 I made an
excursion round Wan-nien-ssu, and found that the
country had every appearance of being a splendid col-
lecting ground, being very rich in species and covered
to a great extent with virgin forest.

One of my coolies who had come from Ta-tsien-lu
was here obliged to leave, as he had a bad sore on his
back caused by the load he had carried down, and which
was part of my botanical collection. I therefore paid
him his money, and he went to Kia-ting-fu to get a few
things he had left in my boat; After getting them, he
was returning to the town in a sampan, when he fell
overboard and lost all his hard-earned wages. He was
now ten days' journey from home and in a penniless
state, but luckily Mr. Kricheldorff had just arrived from
Mou-pin, and on applying to him he gave him sufficient
cash to enable him to reach his home. This coolie

SUMMIT OF OMl^I-SHAN 217

was a remarkably line man, standing about 6 ft. 4 in.,
and was half Tibetan.

On August 9 I left Wan-nien- ssu and continued the
ascent of the mountain, the road leading through beau-
tiful scenery, there being many fine forest trees, and in
the more open places a luxuriant undergrowth. Some
deep gorges are seen, and numerous streams course down
the mountain side. Lodging was found in a small
temple called Ta-chung-tze. Nearly the whole of the
road up the mountain is made of flights of stone steps,
and in places they are very steep.

On August 10 the summit was reached at 10 a.m.,
and here I found Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, of the American
Mission, staying at a temple called Chang- fu-ting, or the
Thousand Buddha summit. Mrs. Lewis was the first
European lady who had ascended the mountain, and
she was carried up on the back of a coolie. She told
me that this mode of travelling was not at all disagree-
able as long as the coolie was moving. When, however,
he stopped to rest, and placed the stick under the frame
to take the weight off his back, there was a most un-
comfortable feeling as if she was on the point of being
thrown backwards down the road that had just been
ascended. Many Chinese ladies ascend the mountain,
and they are all carried up in this way. I remained at
the summit for ten days, during most of which time the

218 GLORY OF BUDDHA

weather was wet and misty. Occasionally it would
clear, and then often clouds could be seeii below and
] to the southward, which, when they struck the face of

,y' the precipice, would roll up and envelope the sunnnit

/ in mist. One day only was clear enough to allow the

great snow}^ range of mountains round Ta-tsien-lu to be
seen, and at the same time I saw the curiously-terraced
shape and flat square summit of Wa-shan to the south-
ward of west.

On two occasions I saw the celebrated Glory of
Buddha from the precipice at the ' Golden Summit.' This-
extraordinary phenomenon is apparently the reflection
of the sun upon the upper surface of the clouds beneath,
and has the appearance of a golden disc surrounded by
radiating bars bearing all the colours of the rainbow.'
These are constantly moving, and scintillate and change
colour in a very remarkable manner.

It is very uncertain when the Glory can be seen, as-
the sun shining on clouds beloW does not always pro-
duce it, and it may appear at any time when the sun i^
over a certain height above the horizon. It is held in
great respect by the Buddhists, and thousandsof pilgrims^
some coming from great distances, visit the mountain
in the hope of being able to see it. A considerable,
number of them are so overcome by excess of religious?
feeling on beholding it, that they throw themselves over

TEMPLES ON THE MOUNTAIN 21»-

the frightful precipice into the clouds upon wliicli it
appears, their bodies as a rule falling- upon an inaccessible
spur covered with forest, perhaps a mile or more below.
There were a good number of pilgrims on the moun-
tain at the time of my visit, but the principal time for
pilgrimages is in the autumn, after all the harvest work
is completed, which is al)out the end of September.
All the temples are built of wood with tiled roofs, and
many have a barnlike appearance, but most of them
are fairly rich in idols and incense jars. They have, as
a rule, bells, some of great size, and many of them have
been damaged by fires, which appear to be ver}- fre-
quent. I saw the ruins of several temples that had been
recently destroyed. When a bell has been rendered
useless it is thrown outside, and no further care appears
to be taken of it There must be many hundreds of
tons of bronze and bell metal laying about uncared for
and unsheltered, going to ruin on the mountain. The
ruin of the bronze temple at the summit has been men-
tioned before. No one seems to take the trouble to
gather the valuable metal together for recasting or any
other purpose. When a temple has been burned, it is
nearly always rebuilt, the trees on the mountain being-
allowed to be used for this purpose and also for the
priest's firewood, but for no other purpose ; the place,
therefore, is not likelv to be ever denuded of its timber.

\

/

220 SUSPENSION BRIDGES

The priests get a good living out of the contributions

( of the enormous number of pilgrims who visit the

mountain. Those living at the summit have, however,

a hard time during the winter months, when the temper-

/ ature is very low, and they are entirely cut off from

below for about a month, during which time the road

is rendered impassable by snow and ice. No life is

allowed to be taken on the mountain, and I nearly got

\ into serious trouble by shooting at a tragopan [Ceriornis

' temminki) which was running across the path, and

' which I failed to bag. I was well clear of all temples,

which occur at intervals of about five li all the way up,

but one of my own men must have acted as informer,

for on reaching the summit the head priest requested

/ me not to shoot again on the mountain.

Two iron suspension bridges are passed on the way
up, but they do not differ in construction from those
seen further west.

IMAGE O" TIGER NEAR THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT OMEI.

221

CHAPTER XV

OMEI-SHAN TO SHANGHAI AND HOME

Departure from Omei-shan — Find Mr. Kricheldorff at Kia-ting — His
difficulties at Moii-pin — Packing np — Bad conduct of collectors —
Flood of Min river — Dangerous position of boat — Expedition to
Mantzu caves — New species of bat — Arrival of collectors — Live
stock — Leave Kia-ting-fii — Lolo raiders — Leave Sui-fu— Dangerous
state of river — Ba-sa-tou — Chung-king — Delayed by state of river —
Murders of native converts — Quei-chau collector — Desertion of
pilot — Sampan stove in at Hu-lin — Mortality among Crossoptilon —
Delay at Wu-shan-hsien — Kapid at Niu-kan-tan — Quick travelling — ■
Arrival at Ichang — Sale of boat — Shanghai — The collection of Prince
Henri — Leave for Southampton.

On August 17 I left the summit of Omei-shan on my
return to Kia-ting-fu, reaching Su-chi on the evening of
the 18th, just at dusk.

Being anxious to reach my boat as soon as possible,
I hired two sampans, for myself and my coolies, hoping
that with the favouring current the short distance
would be quickly and safely traversed.

It soon became very dark, however, and the boat-
men seemed to lose either the way or their heads, for
before I apprehended any danger, I found that the sam-
pans had been swept into a rapid, and that in the dark-

222 TBOUBLE AT MOU-PIN

ness, instead of being kept inshore, had been carried
out into the main stream of the Min Eiver, and
were in danger of being swept down beyond the place
where my boat was anchored. By dint of hard work
they were got inshore again, luckily above her, and
she was soon found. On getting on board I found J\Ir.
Kricheldorif, who had arrived from Mou-pin on Sunda)'.
He reported having had great difficulty with the natives,
who stole his tent and interfered so much with his col-
lectors that he was compelled to abandon the higher
and more promising collecting grounds and to take
up his residence in a house in the village. The con-
sequence was, that the collection he brought back was
anything but what I had expected, and I was much
disappointed.

I was now fully employed in arranging and packing
the collections already made, hoping to get them out of
the way before the collectors I had left behind in Tibet
and Ta-tsien-lu should come in with their treasures.
A few days after my arrival I received a letter in Chinese
from Ta-tsien-lu, complaining of the bad conduct of one
of my collectors at Pu-tzu-fong towards a Tibetan girl,
and which had so preyed upon her mind that she had
hanged herself. Although I greatly deplored the circum-
stance, for which I was in no way responsible, I was
very glad to have left the neighbourhood before it

CAUSE OF FLOOD 223

occurred, as I should certaiul}^ have got into trouble,
and probably have had to pay a heavy indemnity.

On August 24 the river rose rapidly, probably
fifteen feet during the day, the boat rocking so much
as to ' prevent writing. Tliis flood was caused by the
Tung and Ya Eivers, the Min above the town being in
its usual state, so that probably hot weather caused a
large quantit}^ of snow to melt in the mountains around
Ta-tsien-lu.

The following day the river was still rising, and the
boat in an awkward place, from which it was impossible
to move her, the river rushing past in a roaring torrent
and about twenty-five feet above its ordinary height,
being the colour of mud. Three anchors were down,
and luckily all the cables held, or we should have been
swept miles down the stream and probably wrecked.
The water was rushing down the Tung and Ya Rivers
with such violence into the Min that it had not time
to run down to a level surface, but could be plainly
seen running up in the centre to a height of several feet
above the level at the banks. Without havincr seen
such a flood it would ])e difficult to imagine the force
of the enormous volume of water so suddenly set free.

On the morning of the 26th the flood began to abate,
m\d as soon as practicable the boat was shifted to a
more secure anchorage.

224 NEW SPECIES OF BAT

News soon spread about of the disasters caused by
the flood, much damage having been done to the crops
and villages as well as to the junks and boats. The
loss of life also had been, as usual, considerable.

The following day the river continued to fall, though
a very heavy rain was falling, and the boat had to be
again moved to a safer anchorage.

On August 28 I made a trip to some of the Mantzu
caves cut in the red sandstone. These are found on
both sides of the river, and those I visited on this occa-
sion were on the right bank, the same side as the town.
On attempting to enter one of them I found the mouth
so choked with creepers and other plants that they had
to be forced aside before I could get in. Inside was a
skeleton, but whether of a Chinese or a Mantzu I am
unable to say.

The only living inhabitants were bats, of which I
captured several, one turning out to be of a species
hitherto unknown, and which has now been named
Hipposiderus Prattii. It has a total length of 5-6
inches, and is coloured dull, smoky grey.

I also obtained at Kia-ting-fu an interesting species
of salamander.

On August 30 the mail arrived from Ta-tsien-lu,
and I received a letter from Mgr. Biet telling me,
among other things, that the full power of government

LEAVE KIA-TIXa-FU 225

of the town and district liad been turned over to the
civil mandarin. This will probably be a bad thing for
the missionaries, for he is an ignorant man and much
prejudiced against foreigners. I took his photograph
while there, as he was particularly anxious to have it
done.

My collectors arrived the next day, having been
delayed slightly on their journey down by the floods
on the Ya Eiver. They had all done very well, and I
o'ot the collections on board at once to arrange and
pack. The living specimens consisted of fifty-three
Crossoptilon (mentioned before), three Amherst phea-
sants, one LophopJiorus L'huysii, two pheasants (Phasi-
anus decollatus), one tragopan and two bear cubs. There
was no room in my boat for these, and I was obliged to
hire a large sampan for their conveyance. I also got
the French missionaries to hire a boat for the collection I
had taken charge of for Prince Henri, as I thought they
would be able to do so on more advantageous terms
than I could. They only chartered her for the voyage
to Chung-king, however, and at that place I had to
hire afresh. All my arrangements were completed on
September 4. Mr. Vale, of the China Inland Mission,
came on board and said good-bye, and a start for home
was made at twelve o'clock, with such a strong current
in our favour that Sui-fu was reached the next day,

Q

226 CHINESE PILOTS

Here Messrs. Wellwood and Warner, both mission-
aries, came on board to see me. We overtook at this
2)hace two hundred soldiers who had passed down the
Min Kiver from Cheng-tu a few days previously, and
were on their way to Lolo-ping, at which place there
had been a Lolo raid, further disturbances being ex-
pected, as the Lolos, according to their invariable
custom, had given notice that they intended to make
further plundering excursions into the Chinese territory.
Leaving Sui-fu on September 6, I found the Yang-
tze still very high, this being too early in the season
for it to run low. Several dangerous places were en-
countered during the day, but all were passed in safety.
The strength of the current here at this time of the
year would render it impossible, in my opinion, for any
steamer to get up against it, unless of exceptional power
and speed. The reefs also are very dangerous, often
running out into the river just where a sharp bend
occurs, requiring a very handy vessel and great skill in
management to avoid disaster. The Chinese pilots are
very clever in navigating the native boats through such
places, but still, accidents are frequent.

On the night of the 7 th, the boat was secured off
the town of Ba-sa-tou, celebrated for its distilleries,
where native spirit, known as samshew, is produced in
large quantities. Here I saw the last of the long, narrow

CHUNG-KING 227

bamboo rafts which were familiar sights further up the
river. They appear to be extensively used for the
transport of the spirit, the jars containing it being stowed
in a single row for nearly the whole length.

I landed, but the conduct of the natives rendered it
prudent for me to return on board as soon as possible.

Chung-king is 230 li further down, and was reached
at 2 P.M. the following day without anything occurring
worthy of notice, except that one of the large huloes
broke when the boat was in a dangerous place. Luckily
no accident occurred, but there was no spare one on
board as there always should be.

I found Mr. Cockburn, the British Eesident, still
here, his successor, Mr. Fulford, having been wrecked
on his passage up, and being now forced to return to
Hankow and wait for the river to fall.

Owing to the high, changeable and dangerous state
•of the river — it rose fifteen feet in one day during my
•jenforced stay — I was not able to leave for some days,
.and while thus delayed, I was most kindly entertained,
as on former occasions, by Mr. Cockburn, and I had
also the pleasure of the society of several Europeans,
Mr. and Mrs. Wilson, English missionaries, and Dr. and
Mrs. Cameron. The Doctor had, some years ago, made
a journey to Bhamo unaccompanied by any other Euro-
pean. While I was here, two French missionaries came

q2

228 MASSACBE OF CHRISTIAN CONVEBTS

in from Ta-tsu, said to be 200 li distant, and from
which place they had, with difficulty, escaped with their
lives, a reward of 200 taels having been offered for their
heads. A few days later the news came from Ta-tsu
of the cruel murder of eleven native converts, who were
reported to have been some boiled and others burnt to
death by the savage mob. All the mission-houses and
property having been looted and then destroyed.

The collector I had despatched, when on my way up
the river, to Quei-chau, returned here just before I did,
having received orders to be here in August. He had
made a very good collection of lepidoptera, and had
some long series of interesting cicadas. I should imagine
that this poor province would be a very good field for
a naturalist. It is known to abound in minerals.

On September 18, the river had fallen so much as to
be considered safe for boats, and all was got ready to
start. Just before leaving I was disagreeably surj^rised
to find the pilot missing, and soon found that he had
deserted, taking with him part of his wages in advance,
which, according to general practice, I had paid him.
The engagement of another caused some delay, and after
saying good-bye to all my kind friends at Chung-king,
we left at 2 p.m.

The river being so high and the current so strong,
rapid progress was made. The night after leaving it

DAMAGE TO SAMPAN 229

fell 2 J feet, as I measured on a stick stuck in tlie bottom,
close to the boat, for the purpose. This, however,
made but little difference in the rapidity of the stream,
and whirlpools and strong eddies were very frequent.
Though many dangerous places were passed, no damage
was done until Hu-lin was reached. Just below this
place the sampan containing all my living specimens,
struck hard upon a rock and knocked a hole in her
bottom. This was temporarily stopped in the usual
way, by ramming in a handful of rags, a supply of which
always appears to be kept handy for such purpose in
navigating this river. She then came on and caught us
up at our evening anchorage, her crew being anxious
to reach us before making any further repairs as my
boat carried all the food. She now had to be comj^letely
unloaded, baled out, and then have the damage made
good in the best way that we could manage it. This
did not take much time, and she was loaded again the
same night and remained fairly watertight till I had
finished with her at Ichang.

The Crossoptilon were hy this time much reduced
in numbers, many having died from want of strength to
stand the voyage, all being under six months old. The
other birds, being mature, stood the journey much better.

A slight delay occurred at Wu-shan-hsien, where we
were forced to remain a day, the whirlpools and current

230

BAPID TBAVELLING

in the Wu-slian Gorge l)eino- reported, as too dangerous
for my boats to pass through. The river, however, fell
during the day and night, and we were able to proceed,,
but found the stream in the gorge still very violent.
The wrecks of two junks were passed in it, the crews
being busy saving what they could from them.

At Mu-kan-tan, the worst rapid in the river, when
it is at this height, was passed, the boat being tossed
about like a cork among the immense whirlpools.
Below it, many junks were waiting for the river to fall,
the ascent being now impossible. The Sin-tan and Ta-
tung rapids I found to be perfectly smooth but the
current very strong, the river being fifteen feet higher
than when I passed down last year.

Ichang was reached on September 25, the journey
down the river from Chung- king, a distance of four
hundred, miles, having been made in fifty hours and
forty-five minutes, as will be seen by the time-table
below, the journey up having taken twenty-two days.

Date

Septembei

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

Time under way

H

yi

3

0

7

10

3

30

11

30

9

25

8

0

9

30

3

40

60 45

ARRIVE AT SHANGHAI 281

I was now fully engaged in arranging and repacking
the collections, paying my men off finally, and giving
them the usual cumshaw, which, of course, varied in
amount according to the time they had been with me,
and the way in which they had behaved.

I was lucky enough to find an immediate purchaser
for my boat, which I had feared might wait a long time
on my hands, such articles not being in frequent demand
at Icliang. She had been well looked after, however,
and in spite of her four journeys up and down the river
was as good as new.

Waiting here for the river to fall, in order to get to
Chung-king, were Mr. Hobson, Commissioner of Customs,
with his staff, and Mr. Fulford, Consul, who were going-
there to open the port to European trade. No steamers
belonging to foreigners were, however, to be allowed
to proceed above this port.

Wlien all my work was completed, I took a passage
in the steamer Kiang-yung, which carried me to Shanghai
without the nuisance of changing boats at Hankow.
On my arrival I had a bad attack of fever, which I felt
more severely through being in a weak state of health,.
I having for the last year, nearly, subsisted almost en-
tirely upon the poor food consumed by the lower classes
of Chinese.

While here, Mr. T. Wood, whom I had previously met

232 CLUB AT SHANGHAI

at Hankow, kindly gave me the use of his godown for
the rearrangement and packing of my collection. In it
I had ample room to spread everything out, and could
ascertain exactly the size and number of tin-lined cases
that would be required for their transport to England.
I found that by an oversight all my reptilia had been
left behind at Icliang, but upon sending a message I had
a reply to say that they were all safe and would be
forwarded. They reached England safely, shortly after
I did.

I had also to relieve myself of the responsibility of
the care of the collection belonging to Prince Henri of
Orleans, which was still on board the steamer. My in-
structions were to leave it with the French Consul at
Hankow, but when I passed that place the consul was
away. I therefore took it on to Shanghai, intending to
turn it over to the consul there, but upon my calling
upon him, he refused to have anything to do with it,
excusing himself by saying that the care of such valuable
articles was too great a responsibility. In consequence
of this refusal, I was obliged to leave it with the French
missionaries, who arranged for its shipment to Europe.

During my stay in Shanghai I found most comfort-
able quarters in the splendid club, of which, through
the courtesy of the members, I was a temporary
member.

AliRIVAL HOME 283

On October 22 I left in the S.S. Xechw for South-
ampton, at which port I arrived on December 4. To
my great disappointment, my Tibetan dog, Ja-ma, died
in the Mediterranean. When I showed him to the genial
captain of the Xeclcar he utterly refused to have him on
board unless caged, and this I was obliged to have done.
He was certainly the largest dog I have ever seen, and
handsome as well. Though he had bitten severely several
Chinese, I never knew him attack a European.

One of the bears also died on the passage, the other
being sent to the Zoological Gardens.

I had originally intended to supplement this book
with an appendix, giving the names of all the new
species obtained during my journey, but in the case of
the lepidoptera this has been found to be impracticable,
as the classification is likely to extend over several years.
The few onlv that have as yet been named are siven.

I have to thank Dr. A Gunther for his valuable
remarks upon my collection of reptilia and fish.

I cannot conclude without expressing great regret
at the way in which the missionaries, from whom I
received much valuable assistance, have lately been
treated, but several incidents that I have mentioned
will show what a credulous and cowardly race the
Chinese are.

TcHoxG-TsAo (Sphcsria sinensis)

APPENDICES

List of Birds collected in China hy Mr. A. E. Pratt

Pica pica.
GaiTulus sinensis.
Cryptolopha affinis.
Merula Kessleri.
„ ruficollis.
Myioplioneus caeruleus.
Ruticilla aurorsa.
Phylloscopus occipitalis.

„ superciliosus.

Cinclus Pallasi.
Spizixus semitorques.
Pycnonotus xanthorrhous.
Trochalopterum canorum.

Ellioti.
Dryonastes perspicillatus.

,, sannio.

Henicurus sinensis.
Microciclila Scouleri.
Yulima diademata.
Suthora suffusa.
Grandala cselicolor.
Niltava svmdara.
Pyrrhocorax graculus.
Corvus pastinator.

Parus Beavani.
,, minor.
„ venustulus.
,, monticolus.
Acridula glaucogularis.

„ concinna.
Troglodytes nipalensis.
Ticliodroma muraria.
Lanius erythronotus.

„ Schacti.
Cotile riparia.
Anthus Blakistoni.
Motacilla leucopsis.

„ flava.
Emberiza castaneiceps.
„ pusilla.
„ elegans.
Eophona melanura.
Poliopsar cineraceus.
Cuculus canorus.
Gecinus Guerini.
Pericrocotus brevirostris,
Pomatorhinus gravivox.
Trochalopteron Ellioti.

236

APPENDIX I

Leucodiopteron cliinense.
Coccotliraustes carneiceps.
Carpodacus dubius.

„ rubicilloides.

iEthopyga Dabiyi.
Picus Cabanisi.

„ mandarinus.
Picoides funebvis.
lyngipicus scintilliceps.
Ardea prasinosceles.
Ibidoiiiynchus Strutliersi.
Scolopax rusticula.
„ solitaria.
Gallicrex cristatus.

Crossoptilon Tibetanuni.
Ceriornis temminki.
Lopbophorus L'buysii.
Pucrasia xanthospila.
Tbaumalea Amherstire.

„ picta.

Phasianus decoUatus.
Lerwa nivicola.
Ithaginis Geoffroyi.
Vanellus cristatus.
jEgialites placidus.
Himantopus candidus.
Querquedula falcata.
Podiceps pbilippensis.

APPENDIX I

237

LOPHOPHORUS L'HUTSII

Crossoptilon Tibetanum

238 APPENDIX II

II

List of the Species of Reptiles and Fishes collected by Mr. A. E.
Pratt on the Upper Yang-tze-kiang and in the province Sze-
chuen, ivith description of the New Species. By Albert
GiLuther, M.A., M.D., Ph.D., F.R.S.

The following notes contain, besides the species described in the
' Annals and Magazine of Natural History,' 1888, vol. I., and 1889,
vol. IV., all those contained in the last collections brought home by
Mr. Pratt.

TOKTOISES

1. Einys reevesii (Gray). Mountains north of the Kiu-kiang.

The ornamental colours of the soft parts are distributed as follows : —
They consist of yellow bands and spots, edged with black ; the most con-
spicuous is a band running from the upper part of the eye along the upper
margin of the neck ; sometimes it is interrupted in some part of its course,
and generally a continuation of it is visible in front of the eye. A short
curved band between the eye and the tympanum, another rmming from
the lower part of the eye to below the tympanum ; an oblong spot at the
posterior angle of the mandible. Tympanum and post-tympanic region
with curved streaks and spots. Sides and lower part of the neck with
parallel straight bands, posteriorly broken up into series of spots. In
very yoimg examples these ornamentations are less numerous.

2. Trionyx sinensis (Wiegm.). Vicinity of Kiu-kiang.

LIZAEDS

3. Tachydromus septentrionalis (Gthr.). Common in the mountains

north of Kiu-kiang.

4. Tachydromus loolteri (Fisch.). Much scarcer.

APPENDIX JI 239

5. Lygosoma reevcsii { Gray). Mountains north of Kin-kianf;:, and at
Mo-si-mien Pass in the province of Sze-chuen (alt. 12,800 ft.).

G. Lygosoma elegans (Blgr.). One specimen from the mountains
north of Kiu-kiang.

7. Eumeccs xanthi, sp. n.

This species is of special interest inasmuch as it is most closely allied
to the Californian Eumeces shiltonianus, from which it is barely dis-
tinguishable by a somewhat different coloration and by the postfrontals
being widely separate from each other, whilst they are more or less in
contact m the American form.

Snout of moderate length. Nasal small, followed by a postnasal,
which fox'ms a sutiu'e with the first two labials ; anterior loreal forming
a suture with the frontonasal ; four supraoculars, the three anterior in
contact with the vertical ; occipitals entirely separated by the central
occipital ; two pairs of nuchals ; seventh upper labial largest ; two or
three very obtuse tubercles on the anterior border of the ear, which is
smaller than a dorsal scale ; two azygos postmentals. Twenty-four or
twenty-six scales round the body, the dorsal nuich broader than the
lateral and ventral. Limbs overlapping when pressed against the body ;
the length of the hind limb is contained twice and a half to twice and
Iwo-thirds in the distance from snout to vent. A median series of trans-
versely enlarged subcaudals. Dark olive above, with a black lateral band
extending from the loreal region to the tail ; the band is bordered above
and below by a light streak, which again has a blackish margin. Fom*
series of dorsal scales separate the two lateral bands. Sometimes a light
longitudinal band edged with black runs along the median line of the
back and of the tail. Belly greenish blue.

Four specimens were collected by Mr. Pi'att at Ichang, of which the
largest is &h inches long, the trunk and head measuring 2| inches.

8. Japalura yunnancnsis (Anders.). Ichang.

9. Gecko japonicus (D. and B.). Mountains north of Kiu-kiang.

10. Calamaria quadrhnaculata (D. & B.). Mountains north of

Kiu-kiang.

11. Simotes chmensis, sp. n.

Scales in seventeen rows. Eight upper labials, the fourth and fifth
entering the orbit; loreal scpiare ; one pn^- and two postoculars ; anterior
chin-shields in contact with four lower labials. Ventral shields 190, dis-
tinctly keeled on the sides ; subcaudals 63, anal entire. The ground-colom*

240 APPENDIX II

is a lifjht brownish grey ; trunk crossed by thirteen, tail by four narrow,
equidistant, black cross-bars ; these are somewhat broader on the back
than on the sides, and indistinctly edged with white. A black band from
eye to eye and continued over the fifth and sixth labials. The black,
arrow-shaped spot on the neck is well-defined. Abdomen with munerons
square black spots, each occupying one-half or the whole of a ventral
scute. Snbcaudals xmiform white.

One yoitng specimen measinres 8i inches, the tail being 2 inches long.

12. Achalinus rufescens (Blgr.). One specimen, uniformly black,

from Ichang.

13. Ahlabes cliinensis, sp. n.

This species belongs to that group of the genus of which Ablabes
vnelanocei^lialus is the type; it comes nearest to Ablabes hwmberti,
having, like that species, ten upper labial shields, the eighth of which is
exchided from the labial raargin. But it differs by having a longer tail
and by its less ornamented coloration.

Scales in seventeen rows. One praeocular, two postoculars. The
occipital does not touch the lower postocular ; temporals 1 + 2, the anterior
in contact with both postoculars. A^entrals 182 ; of the tail nearly one-
half has been lost, the mutilated part being protected by tifty-tliree pairs
of subcaudals, so that the whole number may be estimated to have been
between eighty and ninety. UpiJer parts nearly uniform brownish grey,
the posterior part of the trunk indistinctly showing a series of whitish
spots along each side of the back. No black dots along the vertebral line.
The black cross bands between the eyes and on the neck are present as in
Ablabes humberti and Ablabes collaris, hut much less distinct. Abdomen
white, each ventral shield with a black dot on each side.

One specimen was found by Mr. Pratt at Ichang ; its trmili measures
fifteen inches, and its tail was probably 5^ inches in length.

14. Coluber rufo-dorsatus (Cant.). Common in the vicinity of

Kiu-kiang.

15. Ela'pliis dione (Pall.), Vicinity of Kiu-kiang.

16. Elapliifi sauromatcs (Pall.). Common near Kiu-kiang. Mr.

Boulenger has discovered that Pliyllopliis carinata (Gthr.)
is the young of this species.

17. Zaocys dhumnacles (Cant.). Common near Kiu-kiang.

18. Ptyas korros (Eeinw). One specimen from Kiu-kiang.

-^

, TB R A ^p

OF THE

UNIVERSITY
or

APPENDIX II 241

19. Cyclophis major (Gthr.). Common near Kiu-kiang.

20. Tropidonotiis annularis (Hallow.). Common near Kiu-kiang.

21. Tropidonotus tigrimis (Boie). Very common near Kiu-kiang.

22. Tropidonotus stcinhonis (Gthr.). Ichanq-.

23. Tropidonotus macrophthalmus (Gthr.). Kia-tiang-fu in Sze-

Chuen (alt. 1,070 ft.).

24. Ophites septcntrionnlis (Gthr.). One specimen from the neigh-

bourhood of Kiu-kiang.

25. Lycodon rufozonatus (Cant.). Common at Kiu-kiang and at

Kia-tiang-fu, Sze Chuen.

26. Bungarus semifasciatits (Kuhli. One specimen from the country-

near Kiu-kiang.

27. Callophis annularis (Gthi-.). One specimen from the country

near Kiu-kiang.

28. Trimcresurus xafithomelas , sp. n. (Plate I. Fig. A.)

The second upper labial shield forms the front part of the facial pit ;
upper part of the snout with three small shields in front. Supracihary
scute large, not divided. Scales in twenty-one rows, keeled. Ventrals
185, 189 ; subcaudals 59, 68 : anal and praeanal not divided. Black, each
scale with an elongate greenish-yellow spot, the spot frequently includino-
smaU black specks. By the modification of the extent of the black colour
on the scales a chain of subrhombic spots is formed along the vertebral
line ; the yeUow of the scales withm each rhombic spot is of a more
reddish shade. Upper part of the head black, with a pattern of narrow
s^Toxmetrical lines ; a deep black band from the eye to the an^le of the
mouth ; labial shields yellow, with a series of black spots on the sutures.
A rather indistinct row of black spots along the sides of the body. Lower
parts yeUow, marbled with black, the black colour predominatin"- m the
posterior half of the length.

Five specimens of this beautiful snake were obtained at Ichano- by
Mr. Pratt, one of the largest bemg thirty-one inches long, the tail measm--
ing five mches. Mr. Boidenger considers it to be identical with T.jerdonii
(Gthr.) from the Kliassya Hills, but by its striking coloration it forms at
any rate a weU-marked variety. It feeds on mice ; and the specimen I
extracted from its stomach proved to be an undescribed species.

29. Trimeresurus monticola (Gthr.). Kia-tiang-fu in the province

of Sze Chuen (alt. 1,070 ft.).

242 APPENDIX II

30. Hahjs blomhoffii (Boie). Common near Kiu-kianp^,

31. Hahjs ambtus, sp. n.

Tliis new species may be at once reco<?nised by the upper part of the
extremity of the .snout being produced into a sliort, flexible, pointed lobe
which projects fi-om between the anterior frontal and the rostral shield
The anterior frontals are small, longer than broad ; the posterior very
large, intermediate in size between the anterior frontals and the occipitals.
Eye surrounded by a ring of small orbitals, of which those in front are
rather elongate ; that below the eye is likewise long and crescent-shaped,
separated by a small postocular from the superciliary shield. Seven
upper labials, of which the second forms the anterior wall of the antorbital
pit, the third and fourth being the largest. A series of three large temporal
shields occupies the lower part of the temple, the space between this
series and the occipital being covered by ordinary scales.

Scales strongly keeled, the keels forming a high sharp ridge on the
posterior part of the body. Each scale bears, besides the keel, on its
-extremity a pair of very small nodules ; scales in twenty-one rows. Ventral
shields 160 ; anal entire ; subcaudals 60, of which the six or twenty
anterior may be single. Extreinity of the tail compressed, covered with
comparatively large vertical scutes, and terminating in a long and com-
pressed spine.

The colour of the upper parts is brown, each side of the body being
ornamented with a series of large dark-coloured triangles, the point of
each triangle meeting that of the other side in the median line of the
back. Lower parts whitish with a series of large rounded black spots on
each side and smaller ones of irregular shape in the middle. The upper
part of the head is imiform black ; a sharp line, which runs from the eye
along the middle of the temporal scutes to the angle of the mouth, divides
the black coloration of the upper parts from the white of the lower.

This species is very remarkable, not only on account of the rostral
lobe, but also for the modification of the scutellation of its compressed
tail. Although this modification cannot in any way be taken as an initial
step in the development of the rattle of Crotahis, the rattle being a modi-
fication of the last dermal scute only into which the vertebral column is
not prolonged, yet the tail of this species may exercise in a much smaller
degree the same function as in the rattlesnake, and may be an instrument
by which vibrations and sound are produced. It is well known also that
many innocuous snakes are able to vibrate the extremity of their tail.
To .judge from its size and from the development of its poisonous apparatus
this snake must be extremely dangerous.

Three specimens are in the collection, of which the lai'gest is fortj'-six
inches long, the tail measuring 6i inches. It has been figm'ed in Ann.
Mag. Ned. Hist. 1888, 1. pi. 12.

APPENDIX II 243

BATRACHIANS

1. Rana hcndengeri, sp. n.

This species belongs to that division of the genus of wliicli liana kuhlii
anil liana Uchifjii are characteristic fonns.

Vomerine teeth in two short oblique series, each starting from the
inner edge of the choana. Head large, broad, much depressed; snout
very short and rounded ; canthus rostralis short but distinct ; upper eye-
lid a little broader than the interorbital space ; tympanum hidden. First
finger longer than the second ; toes witli swollen extremity, entirely
webbed ; subarticular tubercles well developed ; inner metatarsal tubercle
elongate; no outer tubercle. The tibio-tarsal joint does not reach the
end of the snout when the limb is carried forward. Skin of the upper
parts covered with large elongate warts and small rounded tubercles ; a
strong fold of the skin above the tympanum ; no glandular fold on the
side of the back. Uniform blackish brown above. Male with two internal
vocal sacs.

As in Bana liehigii, the breeding male has extremely thick forearms,
but without any special armature. The rudimentary thumb and the large
rounded tubercle on the upper side of the first finger are thickly studded
with horny spines, the second and third fingers having similar spines, but
less numerous. The whole of the chest is covered with smaller and larger
rounded tubercles, each armed with a black conical horny spine, and
similar but smaller dermal structures are scattered over the abdomen and
also over the throat.

Two specimens of this large species were sent by Mr. Pratt from
Ichang. The length from the snout to the vent is four inches.

2. Bufo vulgaris. At Ichang and at Kia-tiang-fu (alt. 1,070 ft.).

3. Megalohatraclius viaximus. One specimen from Kia-tiang-fu (alt,

1,070 ft.).

4. Hynobius chinensis, sp. n.

Allied to the Japanese Hijnohius nebulosus, but with the series of
vomerine teeth much shorter, extending backwards only to the middle of
the eye-ball. General habit short and stout ; head large, nearly as broad
as long, its length being rather more than one-fourth of the length of the
trunk. Tail compressed in its whole length, but without crest ; body with
eleven lateral folds. The limbs meet when adpressed ; fifth toe well
developed ; no carpal or tarsal tubercles. Skin smooth ; gular fold in.
distinct. Nearly uniform horny black, the lower parts brownish, finely
marbled with darker.

B 2

244

APPENDIX II

Total length

From snout to cloaca

Length of head

Width of head

Fore limb .

Hind limb .

Tail .

Two specimens were collected by

85 millim

4G

11

10

15

16

39

Mr. Pratt at Ichang.

FISHES

1. Acipenser dabryanus (Dum.). Ichang.

2. Acipenser, sp. inc., young specimens from Kiu-kiang.

3. Psephurus glculius (Martens). Kiu-kiang.

4. Ekotris xanthi, sp. n. D. 6/i. A. 1/7. L. lat. 33.

PrsseoperciUum without spine. Twelve series of scales between the
origm of the second dorsal fin and the anal. The scales on the neck,
cheek, and opercles are small and do not extend on to the interorbital
space. Scales finely ciliated. The height of the body is one-fovu'th of
the total length (without caudal) ; the lehgth of the head two-sevenths.
Ej-e rather small, shorter than the snout, one-fifth of the length of the
head, and exceeding the width of the interorbital space. Head rather
compressed and high behind, with broad snout, and the lower jaw promi-
nent. The maxillary extends to the vertical from the front margin of the
orbit. Gill-membranes attached to the median line of the isthmus.
Vertical fins lower than the body ; caudal fin rounded, equal in length
to the pectorals, which are three-fifths of the length of the head. Light-
coloured, with broad, indistinct, darker cross bands on the sides. Dorsal
and caudal fins indistinctly spotted with brown ; no spot at the base of
the pectoral fin.

This species, of which there is only one specimen in the collection,
2i inches long, is allied to Eleotris i^otamopliila, but readily distinguished
from it by its narrow, scaleless, interorbital space. I do not know of any
other species of this genus ascending in fresh water to a similar distance
from the sea.

5. Ophiocepkalus argus (Cant.). Kiu-kiang.

6. Poly acanthus ojjcrcularis (L.). Kiu-kiang.

7. Mastacembelus chinensis (Blkr.). Ichang.

8. Silurus asotus (L.). Kiu-kiang and Kia-tiang-fu.

APPENDIX II 246

9. Macroncs longirostris (Gtlu*.). Kiu-kiang;.

10. Macroncs macropterus (Blkr.), Kia-tiang-fu and Kin-kiang.

11. Macroncs crassilahris (Gtlir. ). Kiu-kiang and Kia-tiang-iu.

12. Macroncs taniatus (Gthr.). Kiu-kiang.

13. Macroncs vachcllii (Rich.). Kiu-kiang.

14. Macroncs pratti, sp. n. D. 1/0. A. liJ. (Plate I. Fig. B.)

Head smooth above, covered with a thin skin ; also the bones on the
nape are covered with skin. Occipital process narrow, about four times
as long as broad ; basal bone of tlie dorsal spine elongate, triangular, nearly
as long as the occipital process, from which it is separated by an intersjjace.
Body luuch elongate, its depth being one-ninth of the total length without
caudal, the length of the head nearly one-fifth. Snout broad, obtusely
rounded, twice and a half as long as the eye, which is one-seventh of the
length of the head. Mouth inferior, as wide as the snoiit. Teeth on the
palate in an miinterrupted concentric band, which is narrower than that
of the inter-maxillaries. Barbels very thin, the nasal filaments extending
not beyond, and those of the maxillaries somewhat behind, the orbit.
Dorsal spine not serrated, lower than the body ; pectoral spine a little
longer, stronger, strongly denticulated interiorly. Adipose fin about as
long as anal. Caudal notched. Coloration nearly uniform.

One specimen 8j inches long. Kia-tiang-fu, 1,070 feet, province
Sze Chuen.

M. Sauvage describes in Ann. Sc. Nat. 1874, i.p. 7, a Liucassis torosi-
labris which I thought might be our species, but the latter has neither
movable labial teeth nor a denticulated dorsal spine longer than the pectoral.

15. Glyptostcrnum conirostrnm (Steind.). Mountain streams

running into the Min River, Sze Chuen.

16. Exostovia clavidi = Chimarrliiclithys davidi (Sauvage). From

the same locahty.

17. Amhlyceps mar (j hiatus, ^^. n. D. 1/G. A. 15. P. 17. V. 6.

(Plate II. Fig. A.)

Head very broad and depressed, but little longer than wide ; its length
is one -fourth of the total (without caudal) ; the greatest depth of the body
is nearly one-sixth of the same length. Eyes very small, ahuost im-
mediately behind the upper lip. Barbels well developed, tlie maxillary
and the outer one of the mandible are the longest, reaching to the middle of
the pectoral fin, the nasal and tlie iimer one of the mandible only half as
long. Mouth wide, anterior, with the lower jaw a little longer tlum the

240 APPENDIX II

upper. The maxillary band of teeth is about three times as wide as lonfr.
Fins enveloped at the base in thick skin. Dorsal fin with the first ray
osseous, its origin being midway between the end of the snout and the
adipose fin. Adipose fin low and long, about as long as the anal fin.
Pectoral fin, with the first ray long and serrated, extending backwards
to below the middle of the dorsal. Ventral fins at some distance behind
the dorsal, short, not extending to the anal. Caudal subtruncated.

Brownish -black with broad pure white margins to all the fins.

Length 4i inches. From mountain streams running into the INIin
River, province Sze Chuen.

18. Carassins auratus (L.). Kiu-kiang.

19. Pscudogohio sinensis (Kner). Kiu-kiang.

20. Pseudogohio inoductus (Ptrs.). Kiu-kiang.

21. Pseudogohio maculatus sp. n. D. 10. A. 8. L. lat. 41..

L. transv. 4/5.

Barbels none. Body rather compressed, its greatest depth being equal
to the length of the head and one-fourth of the total (without caudal) ;
snoiit rather compressed, of moderate length, a little longer than the eye,
the diameter of which is nearly one-fom-th of the length of the head.
Interorbital space convex, as wide as the orbit. Mouth very small, sub-
anterior ; lower lip interrupted in the middle. The origin of the dorsal
fin is nearer to the end of the snout than to the root of the caudal ; ven-
trals mserted below the middle of the dorsal ; caudal fin moderately
forked ; pectoral not quite so long as the head, extending to the origin of
the dorsal fin, but not to the root of the ventral. Silvery, with large,
irregular, deep black spots, each occupying one or more scales ; anterior
part of the dorsal fin and a band along each caudal lobe black.

Two specimens, the larger of which is three inches long, are in the
collection.

This species would belong, on account of the absence of barbels, to
Bleeker's genus SarcochilichtJiijs.

22. Ilhinogohio cylindricus, sp. n. D. 11. A. 8. L. lat. 48.

L. transv. 6/7.

Body low, subcyclindrical, its greatest depth bemg contained five-and-
a-half times in the total length (without caudal), the length of the head
foiu' times and a fourth. Head low, with the snout much elongate and
pointed, the eye being rather nearer to the gill-opening than to the end
of the snout ; the projecting part of the snout is swollen, conical, the
raoiTtli being entirely at the lower side of the snout. Eye one-fifth of the

ArPESDIX II 217

Iciifjth of the head, less wide than the flat interorbital space. Upper hp
swollen; lower very short, broadly interrupted in the middle; barbel very
short, lying in a gi'oo\ e which extends forward to near the extremity of
the snout. Gill-membrane attached to the side of the isthmus. The
origm of the dorsal fln is considerably nearer to the end of the snout than
to the root of the caudal ; ventrals inserted below the posterior half of
the dorsal. Caudal deeply forked. The pectorals are nuich shorter than
the head, and scarcely- extend to the origin of the dorsal fin. The lower
parts of the head and of tlie thoracic region entirely scaleless. Colora-
tion transparent, without any spots.

One specimen, 4 inclies long.

This species differs from BJiinogobio ttipus in having a nuich smaller
eye and in having the lower parts of the thorax scaleless.

23. Barbus sarana (H. B.) Kia-tiang-fu.

24. Bliyncliocypris varieqata, g. et sp. n. D. 10 or 11. A. 9.

L. lat. 100. (Plate II. Fig. B. Two views of the head
are also shown at the bottom of Plate III.)

Body rather elongate, its height being two-ninths of the total length
(without caudal), the len.ijfth of the head two-sevenths. Head depressed,
broad and flat above ; snout wedge-shaped and produced. Eye of moderate
size, two-ninths of the length of the head and two-thirds of the length of
the snout or of the width of the interorbital space; Origin of the dorsal
fin nearer to the root of the caudal than to the extremity of the snout ;
the anal fin commences at a short distance behind the dorsal and termin-
ates a long way from the caudal ; caudal fin emarginate. All the fins
are short rayed ; the pectorals are not much longer than half the length
of the head and terminate at a considerable distance from the ventrals.
The root of the ventrals occupies nearly the middle between the end of
the snout and the root of the caudal fin ; they nearly reach the vent.
Lateral line complete, well developed, running along the middle of the
body. Back greyish, sides and lower parts silver}^ ; numerous scales on
the sides blackish.

This small species gi'ows to a length of five inches. Several specimens
were collected by Mr. Stj-an in mountain streams near Kiu-kiang, and
others at Ichang by Mr. Pratt.

25. Pscudoi'asbora j^arva {^clileg.). Kiu-kiang.
2G. Xenocypris anjentea (Gthr.) Kiu-kiang.

27. Ctcnopharyngodon idellus (C. V.). Kiu-kiang.

28. BJiodeus sinensis (Gthr.). Kiu-kiang and Kia-tiang-fu.

29. Ochetobius elongatiis (Kner). Kiu-kiang.

248 APPENDIX II

SO. Squalioharbus curricnliLS (Rich.). Kiu-kiang.

31. Hypophthalmichthys molUrix (C. V.) Kiu-kiang.

32. Chanocliclithys ijehincnsis (Basil). Kiu-kiang.

33. Culter ilishcBformis (]ilkr.). Kiu-kiang.

34. Hemiculter leuciscuhis (Kner). Kiu-kiang.

35. Luciobrmna typus (Blkr). Kiu-kiang.

36. Homaloptara fimhriata, sp. n. D. 11. A. 7. P. 19. V. 11.

(Plate III. Fig. A.)

This species differs from the typical species of Honialojjtera in the
shape of its snout and in the arrangement of the barhels. The snout is
flat and spatulate, considerably narrowed in front and nearly as long as
broad ; the mouth is siuTounded with fringes, from which the barbels
differ only by then greater size ; the barbels and fringes of the upper jaw
arranged in two concentric series, two pairs of barbels standing in the
outer series ; behind each angle of the mouth there is a third pair of
barbels.

Scales minute and smooth, but there are a few larger ones along the
median line of the back and along the lateral line. Origin of the anal fin
rather nearer to the root of the caudal than to the occiput. Eyes very
small, much nearer to the gill-openmg than to the end of the snout ;
ventral fins opposite to* the anterior half of the dorsal. Pectoral fins not
extending to the ventrals. Body with broad, indistinct, dark cross bands ;
pectoral, ventral, and caudal fins with gi-eyish spots.

Three specimens, 4^ inches long, from Ichang and the Min River.

S7. Homaloptera abbreviata, sTp. n. D. 11. A. 7. P. 23. V. 14-15.
L. lat. 75. (Plate III. Fig. B.)

The scales are smooth and very small ; those of the lateral line are
somewhat larger, and seventy-five perforated scales can be counted in it.
Snout roinided and nearly twice as long as the postorbital part of the
head. Barbels short and simple ; upper lip fringed, but not the lower.
The dorsal fin occupies the middle between the snout and caudal fin, its
origin being somewhat behind that of the ventrals. Pectorals extending
beyond the origin of the ventrals ; caudal deeply forked.

Upper parts dark coloured, fins yellowish, lower caudal lobe with a
diffuse, blackish longitudinal band.

One specimen foiu' inches long from mountain streams running into
the Min Eiver, Province Sze Chuen.

38. Miscjurnus anguillicaudatus (Cant.). Kiu-kiang.

<^ ^ « r

APPENDIX II 249

89. Misgui'mts mizolcpis, sp. n. D. 7 or 8. A. 8, 9. V. G or 7.

This si^ecics has larp^er scales than any other of the .i^enus known to
mc ; they are arranp^ed in thirteen lonf,ntudinaI rows between tlie dorsal
fin and the hxteral Hne, and in ten between the lateral line and the ventral
fin. Barbels ten, four belonginj^ to the mandible ; the inner paii- of the
mandibulary barbels are about half the lenf,i;h of the outer ones. Head
and body compressed. The height of the body is nearly equal to the
length of the head, which is contained six-and-a-half times in the total
length (without caudal). Snout at least twice as long as the diameter of
the eye, which is one-sixth of the length of the head. Origin of the dorsal
fin nearer to the root of the caudal than to the occiput, conspicuously in
advance of the root of the ventral fin. Pectoral fin a little shorter than
the head ; caiulal fin rounded, continued by a series of rudimentary rays
to the anal fin, and a similar distance forward on the dorsal edge of the
tail ; the rudimentary rays under the free portion of the tail are particularly
deep. Greyish green, with a greyish line along each sei'ies of scales ;
lower parts whitish, finely mottled with brown.

Three specimens, of which the largest is 6i inches long, from Kiu-
kiang.

40. Nemachilus xanthi, sp. n. D. 12. A. 7. V. 8.

Scales minute but conspicuous. Caudal fin deeply emarginate ; the
origin of the dorsal fin is midway between the end of the snout and the
root of the caudal. The height of the body is considerably less than the
length of the head which is one-fourth of the total (without caudal).
Snout of moderate length, pointed, as long as the postorbital portion of
the head ; eye of moderate size. A skinny adipose lobe occujsies the place
of the enlarged axillary scales of the pectoral and ventral fins. Back
crossed by fourteen narrow brownish bands ; a small black spot at the
end of the lateral line ; each caudal lobe with four obUque blackish bands
each dorsal ray with one or two blackish specks.

One sjiecimen, 4^ inches long, from Ichang.

41. Nemachilus stoliczkce (Day). Kia-tiang-fu.

42. Botia vcmegata, sp. n. D. 11. A. 8. V. 9.

Barbels six. The height of the body is one-fifth of the total length
(without caudal), the length of the head two-sevenths ; snout elongate,
but the small eye is much nearer to the end of the snout than to that of
the operculum. The suborbital spme extends to below the hind margin
of the orbit. Interorbital space narrow, transversely convex, twice as
wide as the orbit. Origin of the dorsal fin midway between the root of
the caudal and the orbit. Caudal fin deeply forked. Body covered with
minute but regularly arranged scales. Ground colour yellowish, the body

250 APPENDIX II

ornamented with five black bands, which are irregular in shape, and may
be broken up iiato large blotches ; all are continuous across the back, and
the middle one corresponds in position to the dorsal fin. All the fins
variegated with black, the black markings of the dorsal and anal fins
sometimes confluent into broad band-like spots.

Two specimens of this fine gigantic species of loach were sent by
Mr. Pratt from Ichang. The larger measures thirteen inches in length.

^^. Botia pratti, B^. n. D. 11. A. 8. V. 9. (Plate IV. Fig. A.)

Barbels ei^ht, but the two symphyseal barbels are not prolonged into
filaments — more like a pair of soft round buttons. The height of the body
is leather more than one -fifth of the total length (without caudal), the
length of the head two-sevenths ; snout elongate, but the very small eye
is rather nearer to the end of the snout than to that of the operculimi.
The suborbital spine extends to below the hind margin of the orbit.
Interorbital space narrow, transversely convex, three or four times as wide
as the very small eye. Oi'igm of the dorsal fin midway between the root
of the caudal and the orbit. Caudal fin deeply forked, the lobes being as
long as the head ; body covered with minute but imbricate scales. Ground
colour brownish olive, without distinct markings on the body. Dorsal fin
with two blackish bands running parallel to the upper margin. Caudal
raj's with numerous linear black markings or without any spots ; the lower
fins with very mdistinct blackish markings.

Three specimens eight inches long, from Kia-tiang-fu, 1,070 feet (foot
of Omie-shan), Province Sze Chuen.

44. Botia su2Mrciliaris,STp. n. D. 11. A. 8. V. 8. (Plate IV. Fig. B.)

Barbels eight, but the two symphyseal barbels are not prolonged into
filaments — more like a pair of soft round buttons. The height of the body
is two-ninths of the total length (without caudal), the length of the head
two-sevenths ; snout elongate, the small eye being rather nearer to the
end of the operculum than to that of the stout. The suborbital spine lies
in a long cleft which extends beyond the eye in both directions. Inter-
orbital space narrow, transversely convex, two-and-a-half times as wide
as the ej'e. Origin of the dorsal fin midway between the root of the
caudal and the eye. Caitdal fin forked, the lobes being shorter than the
head. Body covered with minute scales which are imbricate on the tail.
Ground colour light olive with broad brownish bars across the back, five
in front and five behind the dorsal fin. A yellowish streak on the side of
the snout running backwards through the superciliary region ; three
yellowish longitudinal lines on the crown of the head. Dorsal and
generally pectoral fin with a broad dark cross band well within the
margin. Each caudal lobe with three or four dark oblique bands.

Five specimens six inches long, Kia-tiang-fu, 1,070 feet (foot of Omie-
shan), Province Sze Chuen.

L^'

Or

ij^Rs.

APPENDIX in 251

III

List of Lcpidoptera collected by tJie author at Kiu-Jciang,
Extracts from a Paper by J. H. Leech, Esq., B.A., F.L.S,
dec. Trans. Ent. Soc, Land. March 1889.

1. Euplo&a midamus, Linn. ; Kivby, Cat. Diurn. Lep.

2. LetJie butleri, Leech, new species.

3. Lethe naias, Leech, n. s.

4. Lethe syrcis, Hew., Ex. Butt. ; Oberth. Et. Ent.

5. Neope ? rmdrheadii, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.
? Dehis segonax, Hew., Ex. Butt.

Neope segonacia, Oberth. Et. Ent.

6. Melanargia halimede, Men., Schrenk's Eeise.
Var meridionalis, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

7. PalcBonympha opalina, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc, Lond. Lep,

Exot.

8. Satyrus dryas, Scop., Ent. Carn.
Satyrus bipunctatus, Motsch., Et. Ent.
Var sibirica, Stand., Cat.

9. Mycalesis regalis, Leech, n. s.

10. Mycalesis gotama, Moore, Cat. Lep. E. I. C, Trans. Ent. Soc.

Lond.

11. Mycalesis perdiccas, Hew. Ex. Butt.
Mycalesis sangaica, Butl. Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

12. Ypthima motschidshyi, Brem. & Grey, Schmett. Nordl. China's ;.

Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.

13. Ypthima sakra, Moore, Cat. Lep. E. I. C, Hew., Trans. Ent,

Soc. Lond.

252 APPENDIX III

14. Ypthima haldus, Fab. Syst. Ent.

Y. argus, Butl. Journ. Linn. Soc, Zool.
Y. zodia, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.
Y. evanescens, Butl. Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

15. AcrcBa vesta, Fabr. Mant. Inst. ; Don., Ins. China ; Kirby,

Cat. Diurn. Lep.

16. Argynnis sagana, Doubl., Gen.
Damora paulina, Nordm. Bull. Mosc.

17. Argynnis paphia, Linn.
? Var valesiiia, Esp.

18. Argynnis laodice, Pall., Eeise.
YsiY japonica, Men., Cat.

19. Argymiis anadyomene, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.
A. ella, Brem., Lep. Ost. Sib.

20. Argynnis niphe, Linn.

21. Argynnis adippe, Linn. ; P. Z. S.

22. Argymiis nerippe, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.
A. coreana, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

23. Melitcza maculata, Br. & Grey, Scbmett. Nordl. China's.
Argynnis leopardina, Lucas, Ann. Soc. Ent. de France.

24. Vanessa c.-alhum, Linn. ; P. Z. S.

25. Vanessa c.-aureum, Linn.

V. angelica, Cram., Pap. Exot.

26. Vanessa charonia, Drury, Exot. Ent. ; Brem., Lep. Ost. Sib.

27. Parymeis indica.

Papilio atalanta indica, Herbst.
Vanessa callirhoe, Fabr.

28. Vanessa cardui, Linn.

29. Hestina assimilis, Linn.

30. Limenitis sydyi, Led., Verb. Zool. Bot. Ges.
31. Limenitis helmanni, Led. Verb. Zool. Bot. Ges.

APPENDIX III 253

32. Neiitis accris, Lep., Reise.
Var intermedia, Pryer.

33. Nejitis eurynome, West. Don., Inst. China.
Papilio leucothoe, Don., Inst. China.

34. Nepis imjeri, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond. ; Lep. Exot. ;

Jans., Cist. Ent.
Limenitis arboretum, Oberth., Et. Ent.

35. Athyma sulpitia. Cram., Pap. Exot.
Var ningpoana, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

36. Athyma fortwia. Leech, n. s.

37. Apatura ilia, Schiff., S. V.

A. here, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

38. AjKctura subalba, Pouj., Ann. Soc. Ent. Fr.

39. Charaxes narccBus, Hew., Exot., Butt.
Var mandariinis, Feld., Reise Nov. Lep.

40. Polyommatus phlosas, Linn.

Var chinensis, Feld., Verh. Zool. Bot. Ges. Wien.
Var eleus, Fab.

41. Lyccena argiades, Pall. ; Proc. Zool. Soc.

42. Lycana fischeri, Eversm., Bixll. Ini.
L, davidi, Pouj., Ann. Soc. Fr.
L.filicaudis, Pryer.

43. Lycana argia, Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.
L. opalina, Pouj., Ann. Soc. Ent. Fr.

44. Lyccena argiolus, Linn.

L. ladonides, de I'Orza, Lep. Jap.

L. levetti, Butl. Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

45. Lyccena moorei, Leech, n. s.

46. Niphanda fiisca.

Thecla fusca, Brem. & Grey, Sclnuett. Nordl. China's ; Proc.
Zool. Soc.

47. Thecla w. album, var eximia, Fixsn.

254 APPENDIX III

48. Thecla niicans, Brem. & Grey, Schmett. Nordl. China's.
T. betuloides, Blanch., Compt. Eend.

49. Thecla pratti, Leech, n. s.

50. Guretis acuta, Moore Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

51. Amhlypodia rama, KolL, Hug. Kaschm. ; Hew., Cat. Lye.

B. M.

A. querceti, Moore, Cat. Lep. E. I. C.
? A. dodoncea, Moore, 1. c.

52. Amhlypodia avidiena, Hew., Ent. Mo. Mag.

53. Terias lata, Boisd., Sp. Gen.
Var jcegeri. Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.

T. suhfervens, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

54. Terias hecahe, Linn., P. Z. S.

55. Terias bethesba, Janson, Cist. Ent.

56. Pieris rapes, Linn.

P. crucivora, Boisd., Sp. Gen.
Var orientalis, Oberth., Et. Ent.

57. Pieris canidia, Sparrm.

P. (jliciria. Cram., Pap. Exot.

P. clavipennis, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

P. sordida, Butl.

•58. Pieris napi, Linn.

Var meletc, Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.

•59. Callidryas crocale. Cram., Pap. Exot.
C. jugurtha. Cram., op. c.

'60. Bhodocera rliamni, Linn.

B. nipalensis, Doubl. Gen. Diurn. Lep.
B. maxima, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.

<61. Colias hyale, Linn., P. Z. S.

>62. Sericinus telamon, Don., Lis. China, P. Z. S.

63. Papilio ehvesi. Leech, n. s.

64. Papilio aristolochicB, Fabr., Syst. Ent.

APPENDIX J 11 25o

<)5. Papilio pamnon, Linn.

Var borealis, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

66. Papillo hianor. Cram., Pap. Exot. ; Lep. Jap. & Cor. P. Z. S.

61. Papilio demetrius, Cram., Pap. Exot.

Var carpcntcri, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

68. Papilio alchioiis, Klug., Neue Sclnnett.
P. alcinous, var. Gray, Cat. Lep. Ins.
P. mencius, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

P. spathatus, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.
P. plutonius, Obertli., Et. Ent.

69. Papilio sarpedon, L., var.

70. Papilio xuthus, Linn.

Var xuthulus, Brem., Lep. Ost. Sib.

71. Papilio machaon, Linn.
Var asiatica, Men., Enum.

Var hippocrates, Feld, Verb. Zool.-bot. Ges. Wien.

72. Papilio macilentus, Janson, Cist. Ent.

Papilio tractipennis, Butl., Ann. & Mag., Nat. Hist.
P. sccBVola, Oberth., Et. Ent.

73. Ismene badra, Moore, Cat. Lep. E.I.C.

74. Pamphila mathias, Fabr., Ent. Syst. Suppl.

75. Pamphila oceia, Hew., Desc. Hesp.

76. Pamphila guttata, Murr., P.Z.S.

Eudamus guttatus, Brem. & Grey, Schmett. Nordl. China's.
Goniloba guttata, Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.

77. Pamphila fortunei, Feld., Reise Nov.

78. Pamphila prominens, Moore.

Gegenes sinensis, Mab., Bull. Soc. Zool. Fr.

79. Pamphila mencia, Moore, Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

80. Gegenes hainamis, Moore, P.Z.S.

81. Hesperia sylvatica, Brem., Lep. Ost. Sib.

82. Syricthus maculatus, Brem. & Grey, Schmett. Nordl. China's.

256 APPENDIX III

83. Plesioneiira bifasciata.

Eudatmis bifasciatus, Brem. it Grey, Schmett. Norcll. China's.
Gonilobia bifasciata, Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.

84. Tagiades iiymphealis, Speyer, Stett, Ent. Zeit.

85. Pterygospidea maculosa, Feld., Reise Nov.

86. Pterygospidea sinica, Feld., Wien. Ent, Mon.
Pterygospidea moorei, Mab., Bull. Soc. Ent., France.
Daimio felderi, Butl. Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

87. Pterygospidea davidii, Mab., Bull. Soc. Ent. France.

88. Antigonus vasava, Moore, P.Z.S.

89. Acherontia atropos, Linn.

Acherontia styx, Westw., Cab. Orient. Ent.
Acherontia medusa, Butl., Trans. Zool. Soc. ; 111. Typ. Lep.
Het.

90. Aclierontia morta, Hiibn., Verz. Schmett.
Acherontia atropos, var. Cram., Pap. Exot.
A. letlie, Westw., Cab. Orient. Ent.

A satanas, Boisd., Nat. Hist. Lep.

91. Smerinthus ocellatus, Linn.
Smerinthus playius, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
S. argus, Men., Cat. Mus. Petr.

92. Smerinthus dissimilis, Brem., Lep. Ost. Sib.

93. Ampelophaga rubiginosa, Brem. & Grey, Beitr. zur Schmett.

Fami. Nord. China.

94. Clanis bilineata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. Suppl. ; Butl., 111.

Typ. Lep. Het.

95. Acosmeryx anceus, Cram., Pap. Exot.

96. Daphnusa coUigata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
Metagastes bietii, Obertli., Lep. du Tibet.

97. Lophura sangaica, Butl., P.Z.S.

98. Diludia increta. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ. Lep.

Het.

APPENDIX III 26T

!M>. Clicerocampa jcqwnica, Bois., Ins. Le[). Ilet.

100. Cliarocampa silhetcnsis, Walk., Cat. Lcp. Ilet. ; Butl., 111. Typ..

Lep. Het.
Charocainpa bisecta, Moore, cf. Butl. 1. c.

101 . Charocampa cipenor, Linn.
ChcBrocavipa Icwisii, Butl., Proc. Zool. Soc.

102. Pergesa vi07igoUana,'But\. ,li?roc. Zool. Soc. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het..

103. Leucophlehia lineata, Westw., Cab. Orient. Ent.

104. Macroglossa pyrrJiosticta, Butl., Proc. Zool. Soc.

105. Macroglossa bovihylaui;, Boisd., Ins. Lep. Het.

106. Sataspes infernalis, Westw., Cab. Orient. Ent.

107. Hcmaris radians, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl. 111. Typ. Lep..

Het.

108. Sciapteron chinensc, Leeeli, n. s.

Hypekthykus, Leech, n. g.

109. Htjpertliijrus aperta, Leech, n. s.

110. Euseviia japtana

Chelonomorplia japana, Motsch., Etud. Ent.
Eusemia villicoidcs, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

111. Seudi/ra subfiava, Moore, Ann. &, Mag. Nat. Hist.

112. Bctina costata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het; Butl., 111. Typ. Lep..

Het.

113. Eterusia oidea, Clerck, Icon.

114. Soritia elizabetha, W^alk., Cat. Lep. Het.

115. Histia flabcllicornis, Fabr., Sp. Ins. ; Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
IIG. Epicopcia mencia, Moore, Proc. Zool. Soc.

117. Aracltotia Jiyalina, Leech, n, s.

lis. PJiaada fortimeii, H. S., Lep. Exot. Sp. Nov.
Phauda triadum, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

ll!h ^ijntoviis muirheadii, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

258 APPENDIX 111

120. Syntomis pratti, Leech, n. a.

121. Syntomis pasciis. Leech, n. s.

122. Syntomis thelcbus, Fabr.

Syntomis germana, Feld., Wien, Ent. Mon.
S. mandarinia, Butl., J. L. S., Zool.

123. Syntomis torquatus, Leech, n. s.

124. Alpenus flammeolus, Moore, Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

125. Ehodogastria lactinca, Cram., Pap. Exot.
B. sanguinolenta, Fabr., Ent. Syst.

126. Dionycliopus niveus, Men., Bull. Phys. Petersb.

127. Bhyparioides rubcscens, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
var. amurcnsis, Brem., Lep. Ost-Sib.

128. Diacrisia subvaria, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ. Lep,

Het.

129. Cystidia stratonice, Cram., Pap. Exot.

Vithora agrionides, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. His. ; 111. Typ.
Lep. Het.

130. Hypercompa principalis, Kollar, var. regalis.

131. Tryplicromera plagifera, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

132. Bizone sanguinea, Brem., Schmett. Nordl. China's.

133. Bizone hamata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

134. Bizone phadra, Leech, u. s.

135. Hypoprepia delineata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

136. Digama ahietis, Leech, n. s.

137. Eligma narcissus, Cram., Pap. Exot.

138. Lithosia retusta, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

139. Numenes disparilis, Staud., Rom. Mem. sur les Lep.

140. Laria l-nigruin, Muller, Faun. Fr.

141. Porthetria dispar, Linn.

Liparis dispar, xav japonica, Motsch., Etud. Ent.
Porthetria umhrosa, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.
p. liadina, Butl., 1. c.

APPENDIX III !>r);)

142. Leucovia salicis, Linn.

148. Belippa liorrida, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

144. Attacus cynthia, Drury, App. ; Cram. Pap. Exot.

Attac2is pryeri, Butl., Proc. Zool. Soc. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het.
A. walkeri, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon.

145. Actias sinensis, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

146. Actias selene, Hiibn., Verz. Schmett.
A. ningpoana, Feld.

Tropcea artemis, Brem., Etud. Entora. de Motscliulsky; Lep.

Ost-Sib.
T. glioma, Butl., Ann. k Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het.

147. Antheroea pernyi, Guerin, Rev. et Mag. Zool.
A. hazina, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.

147a. Saturnia pyretorum, HohdiWSiA MSS. ; Westw., Cab. Orient.
Ent.

148. BrahmcBa undulata, Brem., Schmett. Nordl. China's.

149. Clisiocampa ne%istria, Linn.

150. Odonestis Iceta, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

151. Trahala vishnu, Lef., Zool. Journ.

var. sidphurea, Kollar, Kaschmir, Von Hugel.
T. basalts. Walk., Lep. Het.

152. Phassus sinensis, Moore, Ann. k, Mag. Nat. Hist.

153. Thyatira trimaculata, Brem., Bull. Acad. Sci. St. Pet. ; Lep.

Ost-Sib.

154. Acronycta rumicis, Linn.

155. Moma {Noctua) orion, Esp., Tr., Dup., Frr. B., Guen.
Nocttia aprilina, Wien. Verz. ; Fabr., Mant. Inst. ; Hilbn.,

Eur. Schmett. Noct.
Diphtcra orion. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

156. Mythimna turca, Linn.

157. Mythimna placida, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.

Lop. Het.

S L>

260 APPENDIX III

158. Mythimna {Leucania) singularis, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat„
Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het.
M.formosana, Butl., P. Z. S.

150. Leucania decisisshna, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

L. salebrosa, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep.

Het.
L. rufistrigosa, Moore, P. Z. S.

160. Leucania extranea, Guen., Noct.

161. Leucania simplex, Leech, n. s.

162. Cloantha polyodon, Clerck.
C. perspicillaris, Linn.

C. orontii, Her.-Schaff., Schmett. Eur.

C. intermedia, Brem., Bull, de I'Acad. ; Lep. Ost-Sib.

163. Mamestra thoracica, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

164. Mamestra dolorosa, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

165. Perigea illecta. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

166. Hadena funerea, Hein., Schm. D.

Xylophasia sodalis, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.
Lep. Het.

167. Caradrina cceca, Obertli., Diag. Lep. Ask.

168. Hermonassa cecilia, Butl., Ann. k Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ..

Lep. Het.

169. Agrotis ypsilon, Eott., Naturf.
A. suffusa, Hiibn.

170. Graphiphora dahlii, Hiibn.

G. canescens, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep.
Het.

171. Graphiphora hrnnnea, Fabr.

172. Graphiphora pacifica, Butl., Ann. k Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.

Lep. Het.

173. Aplectoides caUgenea, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.

APPENDIX III 261

m.-PoIydesma vulgaris, Butl., P. Z. S.

175. Eurois exclusa, Leech, ii. s.

176. Pcnicillaria geyeri, Feld., Raise der Nov.

177. Callopistria purpureofasciata, Filler.
C. pteridis, Fabr., Ent. Syst.

C. exotica, Guen., Noct.

C. duplicans, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

178. Acontia bicolora. Leech, n. s.

179. Hecatera fasciata. Leech, n. s.

180. Dianthoscia compta, Fabr., Mant.

181. Plusia albostriata, Brem. Sc Grey, Beitr. ziir Schmett.

Fauna des Nordl. China.

182. Plusiodonta compressipalpis, Guen., Noct.

183. Gonitis mesogona. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

184. Gonitis albitibia, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

185. Amphipyra pyramidea, Linn.

A. monolitlia, Guen., Noct. ; Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
A. magna, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. Suppl.
var obscura, Oberth., Etud. Entom.

180. Amphipyra livida, Fabr., Mant.

A. corvina, Motsch., Bull. Soc. Mosc.

187. Ncenia contaminata.

Grapliiphora contaminata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. Suppl.

188. Mormo mucivirens, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.

Lep. Het.

189. Orthogonia sera, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mo]i.

Orthogonia crispina, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.
Lep. Het.

190. Dichonia bipunctata, Motsch., Etud. Ent.

191. Toxocampa lilacina, ]3utl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ

Lep. Het.

T. recta, Brem.

iiG2 APPENDIX III

192. Calpeexcavata, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.; 111. Typ. I.ep. Het.

193. Lacera ])rocellosa, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

194. Sypna achatina, Butl., Cist. Ent. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het.

195. Sypna astrigera, Butl., Cist. Ent.
19G. Sypna distincta, Leech, n. s.

197. Ophidercs tyrannns, Guen., Noet.

198. Ophideres fullonica, Linn.

199. Ophideres salaminia, Cram., Pap. Exot.

200. Lagoptera dotata, Fabr.

201. Lagoptera elegans, Van der Hoven, Lep. Nov.

202. Catocala esther, Butl., Cist. Ent. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het.
C. numoegeni, Staud.

203. Catocala volcanica, Butl., Cist. Ent. ; 111. Typ. Lep. Het.

204. Chrysorithrum amatum, Brera., Mcnetries, Cat. Lep. Mus.

Petrop.

205. Patula macrops, Linn.
P. boopis, Guen. Noct.

206. Nyctipao crepuscular is, Linn.

207. Spiramia retorta, ? , Linn., Mus. Lud. Ulr. ; Cram., Pap. Exot.
S. retorta,^, Cram., Pap. Exot. ; suffumosa, Guen. Noct.

S. spiralis, Fabr., Sp. Ins.

S. japonica, Guen., Noct.

S. jinchuena, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

S. inoequalis, Butl., 1. c.

208. Spiramia martlia, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.; 111. Typ. Lep.

Het.
S.agrota, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.

209. Calliodes recti fasciata, Henety.

Spiramia interlineata, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111.
Typ. Lep. Het.

210. Cocytodes modesta, Van der Hoven, Lep. Nouv.

APPENDIX III 203-

211. Opliiusa falcata, Moore., Descr. Iiid. Lep. Atk.

212. Opiiiusa algira, Linn.

0. stuposa, Fabr., Ent. Syst.

213. Ophiiisa arctotcBuia, Guen., Noct. ; Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

214. Gram-modes vnjgdon, Cram., Pap. Exot.

215. Remigia archesia, Cram., Pap. Exot.
B. virbia, Cram., 1. c.

210. Beviigia annetta, Butl., Ann. k Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep.
Het.

217. Sonagara vialis, Moore, P. Z. S.

218. Ophiodcs triphoenoides, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
0. cuprea, Moore, P. Z. S.

219. Opliiodes tirrhcca, Cram., Pap. Exot.
0. vesta, Esp., Sclimett.

0. olivacea, VilL, Ent. Linn.
0. auricularis, Hiibn., Noct.
0. liottentota, Guen., Noct.
0. separans, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

220. Serrodes canipana, Guen., Noct.

221. Ophisma gravata, Guen., Noct.

222. Potamorphora manlia, Cram., Pap. Exot.

223. Hulodes caranea, Cram., Pap. Exot.

224. Urapteryx delectans, Butl., 111. Typ. Lep. Het.

225. Odontoptera mandarinata, Leech, n. s.

220. Geometra viridiluteata. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

227. Thalera strigata, Muel., Faun. Lis. Fr.
T. {Hemithea) thymiaria, Guen., Phal.

228. Thalera cremdata, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ^

Lep. Het.

229. Ephyra grata, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

■264 APPENDIX III

230. Bizia cexaria, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ. Lep. Het.
Eudropia mihuaria, Feld., Eeise der Nov., Lep.

231. Elplios latiferaria, Walk., Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ. Lep.

Het.

282. Boarmia picata, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.

233. Boarmia consortaria, Fabr.

B. conferenda, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist.

234. Boarmia grisea, Butl., Ami. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep.

Het.

235. Boarmia ocellata, Leech, n. s.

236. Stenotrachelys cinerea, Butl., Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.

237. Buzura ahraxata, Leech, n. s.

238. Pachyodes arenaria, Leech, n. s.

239. Bhyparia jaguaria, Guen., Phal.

:240. Abraxas sylvata, Scop., Ent. Carn.
A. ulmata, Fabr., Syst. Ent.

A. mirauda, Butl., Ann. Sc Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep
Het.

241. Abraxas martaria, Guen., Phal.

242. Abraxas junctilineata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ.

Lep. Het.

243. Abraxas amplificata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
2A^a.Abraxas interruptaria, Feld., Wien. Ent. Mon. ; Eeise der Nov.

244. PancBthia hemionata, Guen., Phal.

245. Obeida vagipardata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

246. Aspilates mundataria, Cram., Pap. Exot.
A. tonghata, Feld., Eeise der Nov.

247. Percnia foraria, Guen., Phal.

248. Acidalia strigilaria, Hiibn.

A. vagata, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

APPENDIX III 265

249. Acidalia indicataria.

Argyris indicataria, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ.
Lep. Het.

250. Asthena superior, Butl., Ann. k Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.

Lep. Het.

251. Timandra amataria, Linn.

T. comptaria, Walk., Cat. Lep. Het. ; Butl., 111. Typ. Lep.
Het.

252. Macaria zachera, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ.

Lep. Het.

253. Macaria sinicaria. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
M. proditaria, Brem., Lep. Ost-Sib.

JSI. maligna, Butl., Ann. k Mag. Nat. Hist, ; 111. Typ. Lep.
Het.

254. C'arlge duplicaria. Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.
Macaria nigronotaria, Brem., Lep. Ost-Sib.

255. Melanippe procellata, Hiibn.

M. inquinata, Butl., Ann. & Mag. Nat. Hist. ; 111. Typ. Lep.
Het.

256. Melanippe ? undulata. Leech, n. s.

257. Micronia pontiata, Guen., Phal. ; Walk., Cat. Lep. Het.

258. C id aria macatata, Feld., Eeise der Nov.

•26G

APPENDIX III

New Species and Varieties of Lepidopter a collected hy the Author
in Western and Central China, described and named hy
J. H. Leech, Esq., B.A., F.L.S., etc., in the ' Entomolo-
<fist; 1890 and 1891.

Februaky 1890

Zethera sagitta.
Melanargia halimede.
var. montana.
Xiethe cyrene.
,, occulta.
„ trimacula.
„ nigrifascia,
„ labyrinthea.
Neope ramosa.

„ romanovi.
Satyrus maculosa.
Pararge catena.
Callerebia albipuncta.
•Clerome jerope.
Hestina nigrivena.
„ viridis.
„ oberthuri.
Euripus japonicus.
var. cliinensis.
Apatura fasciola.
Atliyma punctata.
„ disjuncta.
,, fortuna.
var. diffusa.
Limenitis pratti.
Neptis liesione.
„ thisbe.
var. tliemis.
var. tlietis.
„ antilope.

Neptis cydippe.

,, beroe,

,, aspasia.

,, antigone.

„ arachne.
lolaus luculentus.

„ contractus,
Thecla elwesi.

,, ornata.

,, rubicundula.
Dipsas minerva.

„ comes.

,, melpomene.

„ tbespis.
Eapala repercussa.

,, subpurpurea.
Lyc^na arcana.

„ nebulosa.
Satsuma clialybeia.

„ pratti.
Amblypodia angulata.
„ ganessa.

var. seminigra.
Dodona maculosa.
Leucophasia gigantea.
Pieris oberthuri.
Delias patrua.
Pterogospidea diversa.
Plesioneura grandis.
Pamphila \irgata.

ArPENUJX HI

Pamphila maga.

Cyclopides nanus.

,, siniilis.

Bizone cruenta.

Halpe submacula.

c? Saturnia oberthuii.

Cyclopides chinensis.

AnuL 1890

Campylotes pratti.

Numenes disparilis.

Eusemia \itlioroides.

var. separata.

Seudyra subalba.

Jan a mandarina.

„ maudarina.

Antherffia thespis.

„ Havida.

Drepana parvula.

•Cheloiiia bieti.

,, acuminata.

vur. pratti.

,, bidens

Dionycbopus rubidus.

„ flaviliiiea.

Crinola flavicoUis.

Thyatira trimaculata.

'G}-iiaephora pluto.

var. chinensis.

Artaxa mentis.

var. albomaculata.

Orgyia prisca.

June 1890

Erebia ruricola.

Apatura pallas.

,, rurigena.

Thecla ccelestis.

Pararge praeusta.

Aporia procris.

Argynnis zenobia.

Pieris lotis.

Grapta gigantea.

,, cisseis.

Helcyra superba.

Papilio sciroii.

2 Sepbisa princeps.

Jaxuaky 1891

Zophoessa argentata.

Lethe Camilla.

„ helle.

Ypthima ciris.

„ procne.

EuthaUa pratti.

,, libitiiia.

,, staudingeri.

Lethe procris.

Euthalia hebe.

,, baucis.

Pieris eurydice.

,, heleiia.

Urapteryx nigrociliaris.

,, hecate.

,, parallelaria.

2G7

268

APPENDIX III

Februaky 1891

Lethe simulans.

„ calisto.

„ gemina.
Neope oberthuri.
Neoriiia patria.
Ragadia latifasciata.
Acrophthalmia tlialia.
Enispe lunatus.
Vanessa fenestra.
Hestina subviridis.

Euripus funebris.
Limenitis livida.

,, alboniaculata.
Abrota pratti.
Enthiilia consobrina.

„ omeia.
Apatura subcferulea.

,, fulva.
Char axes ganymedes.

„ posidonius.

June 1891

Ypthima iris.
Callerebia phyllis.
Melanargia leda.
$Pieris davidis (Oberth.,
Stud. Entom.).
„ davidis.

var. venata.
Thecla patrius.
Lycffina ion.
Eudamus simplex.

Eudamus proximvis.
Syrichthus oberthuri.
Pamphila pulebra.
Carterocephakis gemmatus.
Taractrocera trimaculata.

lyde.
Nisoniades pelias.
CeLienorrhinus consanguinea,
,, aspersa.

September 1891

Neope simulans. Lethe titania.

Ypthima insoHta. ,, christophi.

,, prfenubihi. Neope (Satyrus) armandii.

,, conjuncta. var. fusca.
Lethe laodamia.

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