f\y '■^'% ./■ AUJ ./\ w\ ^M|j/ yjP"^-i nllllilUl \ V / U ■ lillHIl Hiiinni lumin *wnt^** lilUlliliilllitllliillliillitlUillllllMlllllil ■1^' ..■ii>- 'V.tL It. .(». iiiiiliii I 'lu 111 lit ffiiiiiiiii '" "'NIVVIK .ilV >*^ .in*' AW >v ./ i» K "»! hiilliiHIiltlliltitilHiillillltlil III i)ll< •''11>»,. -^^ *c TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES iiiiiiiiiiiiii Hill iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiii nil 3 9090 014 549 006 ) i Wi*>**i( "Ms* XLbc IRural Science Series Edited by L. H. BAILEY THE TRAINING AND BREAKING OF HORSES STJjc Eural Science Series The Soil. The Spraying of Plants. Milk and its Products. The Fertility of the Land. The Principles of Fruit-Gbowing. Bush-Fruits. Fertilizers. The Principles of Agriculture. 15th Ed. Irrigation and Drainage, The Farmstead. Rural Wealth and Welfare. The Principles of Vegetable-Gardening. Farm Poultry. The Feeding of Animals. The Farmer's Business Handbook. The Diseases of Animals. The Horse. How TO Choose a Farm. Forage Crops. Bacteria in Relation to Country Life. The Nursery-Book. Plant-Breeding. 4th Ed. The Forcing-Book. The Pruning-Book. Fruit-Growing in Arid Regions. Rural Hygiene. Dry-Farming. Law for the American Farmer. Farm Boys and Girls. The Training and Breaking of Horses. Others in preparation. THE TRAINING AND BREAKING OF HORSES BY MERRITT W. HARPER ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF ANIMAL HUSBANDRY NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY AUTHOR OP "manual OF FARM ANIMALS " THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1912 All rights reserved v^ilX \ K^ Copyright, 1912, By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. Set up and electrotyped. Published March, 1912. Nariuoot) }|res0 J. S. Cashing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. PREFACE The horse occupies a unique position because he is used as man's principal beast of burden and is con- stantly associated with him in the performance of his daily work. This labor and association establishes a close relationship. The effectiveness with which the work is performed, and perhaps success, depend on their mutual understanding. In performing this work it becomes necessary to trust the horse. This trust is often great, and the safety of the master will depend largely on the understanding he has with his horse. Since the effectiveness of the horse and the safety of the master and his family depend so largely upon the understanding between man and horse, it seems worth while to give the methods of establishing agree- able relationships careful consideration. It has been with a view of aiding to promote this that the present volume is written. This is done with the thought that the usefulness of the horse depends on his being readily subservient to his master's will, and an attempt is made to set forth the methods that are most likely to bring this about. Beginning with the foal, each class of horse is con- sidered, and a separate chapter is devoted to the vi Preface education of the more common classes. Special atten- tion is given to the training and subduing of wild horses, as well as to overcoming whims and vicious habits, which often render a horse useless and some- times dangerous. Many appliances for accomplishing this are described. While the book is written from a practical point of view, the writer has in mind filling a need met in the classroom, where, owing to lack of time, it is not possible to consider details sufficiently to enable the student to take up the practical work of training horses To facilitate this part of the work, and to avoid repeti- tion, free use is made of cross references. Recognizing the incompleteness of such a work, the writer will be glad to correspond with those into whose hands this book may fall concerning difficulties in the training of horses, and also to receive suggestions that will aid in perfecting the horse's education. M. W. HARPER. Ithaca, New York, January 29, 1912. CONTENTS CHAPTER I The Horse and his Master .... The Horse and his Intelligence Horses' intelligence often overestimated . The horse has a good memory . Training by Means of the Special Senses The sense of feeling requires patient training Train the sight to objects of fear Do not confuse the horse through the hearing Sense of smell also used in training . Sense of taste indirectly used in training . The Objects of Horse Training Methods of Horse Training .... Selecting a method . . . . • Rapid methods vs. slow methods Rapid methods permanently effective Safety in Horse Training Make the Horse understand and respond to Orders an Signals ....... Exact implicit obedience from the horse . Reward and Punishment in Training Horses . The use of the whip Requirements in the Trainer .... Personal influence of the trainer General Considerations in Horse Training vii PAGES 1-25 2 3 4 7 8 9 9 10 10 11 11 12 12 13 14 15 16 17 19 20 21 22 Vlll Contents CHAPTER II Training the Foal Age to begin Training the Foal Catching and Handling the Foal Catch a foal around both ends . Foals are naturally very timid . Secure the foal's confidence while young Avoid confusing the foal . Make first lessons short and simple . Teach the young foals useful things only Teaching the Foal to Lead Choose a strong, well-fitting halter . The loin-hitch ..... Teaching the Foal to Back Driving the Foal with Lines Teach the foal " whoa," "get up," and " back" Value of Early Training PAGES 26-43 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 33 34 35 37 38 40 40 42 CHAPTER III Training the Work Horse Age to train Horses for Work . Train the Horse within an In closure Examine the Horse before Training Handle the Horse before Traininec . Training the Horse to Lead The tail-hitch .... The quarters-hitch Teach the Horse to follow when Loose Training to the Uses of the Bit Importance of a good mouth Bitting the horse The bitting-harness . Driving the Horse with Lines . 44-107 46 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 . 57 57 60 63 Contents IX Teaching the command " whoa " ' . Teaching the command " get up " Teaching the command "back " Harnessing, Hitching and Driving the Horse Poling the horse .... Harnessing the horse Hitching single ..... Training-cart . . . Familiarize the horse with the vehicle Teaching the command " steady " Backing the vehicle .... Train the horse to come under the shafts Caressing with the whip . Hitching double .... Training the Horse to Objects of Fear " Family-broke " . . Pony for children .... Train the Horse to walk Fast . Train the Horse for Heavy Draft Training Horses to make Leaders . Teaching the commands "haw," "gee " and Choosing a Vocabulary for the Work Horse Gentling the Feet for Shoeing . Training to Mount 'ea PAGES 65 67 67 68 69 72 74 74 77 80 80 82 83 84 85 90 91 91 93 97 97 99 101 106 CHAPTER IV Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster . 108-149 Age to begin Training ....... 109 Method of Training while Young 110 The training yard ....... Ill Plan for training the young colt .... 112 Exercising on small track ...... 113 Do not tire the colt . . . . . . .115 Early Training in Harness 118 Contents Study individual peculiarities . Training the Two- and Three-year-old Daily Program for a Horse in Training Training for the Race Preparing for the race Driving .... Improving the Action Bitting to improve action Shoeing to improve action Conditioning to improve action Injurious Results of Fanlty Action . Over-reaching, forging and clicking Interfering, striking, cutting and brushing Exercise contributes to Action PAGES 121 123 125 127 129 129 132 134 139 142 143 143 145 147 CHAPTER V Training the Saddle Horse Equipment for Training a Saddle Horse The riding bridle The saddle .... Whip and spurs . Mounting Horse for First Time Gaits of the Saddle Horse Described The walk . The trot The canter . The rack . The running walk The fox trot The slow pace The jump . Classes of Saddle Horses Training to the Gaits The walk . 150-185 151 151 151 154 155 158 159 160 160 163 164 165 165 166 167 168 168 Contents XI The trot .... The canter .... The running walk Fox trot .... The slow pace . The rack .... The jump . . . • Training to stand Trainino^ Horses for the Army . The cavah-y horse The scouting horse . Picketing .... Training Saddle Horses for Special Polo game .... High-school gaits Circus tricks Work PAGES 170 171 172 173 173 173 174 176 177 178 178 179 179 179 181 183 CHAPTER VI Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses Temperament in the Horse Training and Subduing Appliances Rope halter Yankee bridle Yankee bridle modified War bridle . War bridle modified . Excelsior bridle . Pulley bridle Pulley bridle modified Hackamore bridle Cavesson halter . Lip-twitch . Noose-twitch 186-245 187 188 189 189 190 191 192 193 193 195 196 196 197 197 XII Contents PAGES Halter-twitch 198 Headstall-twitch 199 Bridle-twitch 200 Rearing-twitch . 200 Wooden -gag 200 The guy rope 201 Combination bridle . 201 Kicking strap 202 Kicking reins 202 Kicking harness 204 Self-punishing harness 204 Hobbles 206 Rarey's leg-strap 207 Rarey's safety harness 208 Rarey's throwing harness 212 Rope throwing . . 216 Galvayne's training harnes s 219 Shackles . 221 Straight-jacket . 221 Training the Wild or Stubborn Hor se . 223 Catching a wild horse 223 Haltering a loose horse 227 Gentling the wild horse . 229 Teaching the wild horse to lead . 231 Teaching the wild horse the uses of the bit and tc drive with lines . 233 Teaching the wild horse to drive in harness . 234 Training the wild horse to unfamiliar objects anc I to noise ........ . 237 Subduing the Vicious Horse • • » • . 241 CHAPTER VII Outdoor Vices and Whims 246-285 Outdoor Vices, their Cause and how to overcome Them 249 Balking 249 Contents Xlll Jibbing Kicking Shying Running away . Running back . Difficult to back . Rearing and plunging Breaking and prancing Switching tail . Tail over line Halter-pulling . Unsteady under whip and spur Difficult to mount Buck-jumping . Rearing Jumping fences . Outdoor Whims, their Cause and how to Tongue-lolling . Striking lips Grasping bit Gnashing teeth . Tossing and shaking the head Lugging . Boring Crowding and pulling away Stripping bridle . Refusing to stand over Troublesome to catch overcome PAGES . 252 . 254 . 257 . 260 . 262 . 263 . 264 . 265 . 265 . 268 . 269 . 273 . 274 . 276 . 276 . 277 Them 278 . 278 . 279 . 279 . 280 . 280 . 281 . 281 . 282 . 283 . 284 . 285 CHAPTER VIII Stable Vices and Whois 286-316 Stable Vices, their Cause and How to Overcome Them 286 Refusing admission into stall . . • • ' • 286 Difficult to groom . . . • • • • 288 XIV Contents PAGES Difficult to harness 290 Difficult to bridle 291 Difficult to crupper 292 Biting 292 Striking 294 Kicking in stable . . . " . 295 Hanging back in stall .... 297 Difficult to lead into a doorway 298 Cribbing 299 Wind-sucking 300 Difficult to shoe 300 Stable Whims, their Cause and How to overcome "^ Chem 306 Rolling 306 Tearing blankets 307 Stripping the halter 308 Pawing with the forefeet 309 Rubbing the tail 310 Rubbing harness 311 Lying down cow-fashion 311 Lying down in harness 312 Chewing tie-strap 312 Eating the bedding 312 Resting one hind foot upon the other 313 Sleeping standing 313 Trotting in stable 314 Weaving 314 Switching tail in stable .... 314 Gorging grain 315 Difficult to drench 315 CHAPTER IX HARNIiSSING THE COLT . 317 -348 The Bit and the Bridle > • 318 The bit • 318 Head-stall t • 325 Blinds » • 325 Contents XV PAGES Centerpieces, earbobs, tassels and brass fixtures . 326 The check-rein . • • 327 The Lines 329 Multiple hitch . . ' . 330 The Collar and Sweat-pads . 331 Sweat-pads .... 335 Breast harness . 335 The hame-tug" . . 336 The Crupper and Back-straps . . 336 The Saddle and Back-bands 337 The Breeching and Hold-backs 338 Choosing Harness 343 Caring for Harness . 344 Fly-nets and Fly-blankets . 347 CHAPTER X Care of Colt in Training . 349-375 Exercise and Development . 350 Feeding and Development . 352 Grooming and Development . 357 Clipping and blanketing . . 361 Care of the colt's feet . 363 Care of the colt's teeth . 365 Accidents Likely to occur in Training . 366 Bruised knee . 367 Broken knee . 367 Bruised fetlock . . 368 Calking .... . 369 Puncture of the foot and frog . 369 Wounds and stabs . 370 Sprains .... . 372 Wind-galls, wind-puffs, blood-spavin, 1 30g-S pavin and thorough-pin . • • « . 373 Capped hocks • • « . 373 Harness galls • • • . 373 Chafed legs • • • • 375 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Hackney-colt, showing high knee and hock action . Catching foal the first time ..... The loin-hitch used in teaching foal to lead . Teaching the foal to back ..... Teaching the foal to drive with lines The tail-hitch, used in teaching the young horse to lead The quarters-hitch, used in teaching the young hor The bitting-harness for teaching the uses of the bit Running side reins, useful in bitting the horse Teaching the horse to drive with lines . Poling the head and nose ..... Poling the body and legs ...... The young horse becoming familiar with the harness Driving in harness previous to hitching to a vehicle Acquainting the horse wdth the training cart Acquainting him with the top buggy Hitched for the first time, kicking straps attached Teaching to back with the lines Teaching the horse to back a vehicle Young horses hitched double for the first time Familiarizing the young horse with strange objects First position in picking up a front foot Second position in picking up a front foot First position in picking up a rear foot . Second position in picking up a rear foot Third position in picking up a rear foot . xvii se to PAGE 5 29 37 39 41 53 54 61 63 64 70 71 73 75 75 77 78 81 82 85 88 101 102 103 104 105 XVlll List of Illustrations Boots for protecting the feet and legs One type of toe weight .... Hackney coach team of proper conformation Coacli horse properly bitted to favor action Improving action with curb-bit Types of saddles Types of saddle-stirrups Types of spurs . The walk . The trot . The canter The rack . The running walk . The fox trot The jump . Rope halter Yankee bridle . Yankee bridle modified War bridle War bridle modified Excelsior bridle Pulley bridle . Pulley bridle with three rings Pulley bridle modified Hackamore bridle Noose-twitch . Halter-twitch . Headstall-twitch Guy rope . Combination bridle Self-punishing harness Hobbles . Rarey's single safety Rarey's double safety with guy rope Rarey's single safety restraining one foreleg PAGE 114 122 135 137 138 152 153 154 159 161 162 163 164 165 166 190 191 191 192 192 193 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 201 203 205 207 208 209 210 List of Illustrations XIX Rarey's double safety restraining the forelegs Rarey's double safety, horse on knees Rarey's throwing harness Rarey's throwing harness, first position . Rarey's throwing harness, second position Rarey's throwing harness, third position Rope throwing harness .... Rope and ring throwing harness Method of securing rope to tail The Galvayne appliance in use The straight-jacket ..... Snaring a loose horse .... Gentling a loose horse .... Haltering a loose horse, first position Haltering a loose horse, second position . Arrangement of double safety when hitched Familiarizing wild horse with objects Crupper anti-switching appliance . Hip-strap anti-switching appliance . Loin-hitch to overcome halter pulling Tail-hitch to overcome halter pulling Galvayne tail-rope on horse difficult to mount Noose-twitch on horse difficult to groom Appliances to prevent cribbing Gentling front foot with rope . Gentling front foot with leg-strap . First position in gentling hind foot Second position in gentling hind foot Third position in gentling hind foot Neck-cradle .... Muzzle to prevent tearing blanket Appliances to prevent pawing . XjXL'o o • • • • • Beery bit ..... Patent collars .... PAGE 211 212 213 214 215 216 217 219 220 221 222 224 226 228 229 235 238 267 268 270 273 275 289 300 301 302 304 305 305 308 308 309 320 323 332 XX List of Illustrations Leather collars An inexpensive but neat driving harness Light work harness . . . . . Heavy work harness . . Tools for grooming PAGE 333 340 341 342 359 THE TRAINING AND BREAKING OF HORSES THE TRAINING AND BREAKING OF HORSES CHAPTER I THE HORSE AND HIS MASTER In common usage, the term ^ draining a horse" imphes educating him for some special work, while the expression '^breaking a horse" signifies preparing him for common everyday work and overcoming whims, faults and vices. This usage of the word '^ breaking" is very unfortunate. Only too often the average horse is simply broken in spirit and obeys or more accurately does not resist his master because he is worked down and worn out and does not have the energy to refuse. This is the kind of horse that frequently surprises his master by rearing, kicking, running away and the like when permitted to regain his former condition. A horse well educated to perform the more common work of his life requires careful training. This is particularly true at the present time when there are so many self-driven vehicles on the highways. In this book, therefore, the term " training " is em- ployed to signify the educating of the horse both for common everyday work and for special work, as it 2 The Horse and his Master conveys the proper meaning, the object being to train the horse so as to increase his efficiency, and not to break the high and superb spirit that makes him the most desirable of all animals. The usefulness and value of a horse depend on his training and on his being readily subservient to his master's will. With few exceptions, such as in high-acting coach work, fast work on the race-track, saddle work and the like, training the horse for his life-work is not difficult. Yet much of the mean- ness and viciousness existing among horses is due to improper training, poor management and injudicious care. The trainer and the driver, though innocent of the fact, are at fault more often perhaps than the horse. To avoid this deplorable state of affairs, a careful study of the horse and his surroundings should be made in order that the animal may be trained, managed and cared for in a way to enable him to develop his greatest usefulness. THE HORSE AND HIS INTELLIGENCE In horse training, the two most important factors to be considered are the horse and his master. Of these, the master — his nervous disposition, temper, and personal habits — is of vital importance. While knowledge of the methods employed in training is not difficult to obtain, the successful application calls for certain qualities in the master. The lack of such The Intelligence of the Horse 3 qualities accounts for many of the bad habits exist- ing among horses. With a httle patience, however, most horse owners can acquire both the knowledge and qualities of temper necessary to train a horse to do his work very satisfactorily. In order to be efficient in horse training we must know something of the mental capabilities of the horse. We should make therefore a careful study of the animal in order to determine what he can under- stand. It must be apparent if the horse does not understand what is wanted of him, if he does not comprehend the meaning of the commands and sig- nals, he cannot be taught to obey, but will be much confused, and hence all attempts to train him will fail. First, then, make a careful study of the horse's intelligence. Horse^s intelligence often overestimated. — The horse is often accorded man's most faithful servant, and because of this, no doubt, his intelligence is often greatly overestimated. The horse cannot reason. He lacks the ability of acquiring knowledge by draw- ing conclusions. This being true, he can be taught only by the association of ideas. As, for example, a touch of the whip on the hindquarter will imply, at first, to go forward, but by giving the command ^^get up" just before the horse is struck with the whip he soon learns to go at the command. This should be repeated until the habit becomes fixed, when the whip may be discarded. As the horse 4 The Horse and his Master forms habits without difficulty, much care should be exercised in establishing only desirable ones. If a desirable act is repeated, a good habit is formed, whereas if the act is undesirable, the habit is bad. To the horse, however, the habit is neither good nor bad, but only his method of responding to treatment or suggestion. When a habit is induced generation after genera- tion, it has a tendency to be transmitted from parent to offspring. There are many examples of this among horses, such as the saddle gaits among saddle-bred horses and high action among Hackney coach horses. It is a comparatively easy matter to teach a saddle- bred horse the various saddle gaits, whereas it would be practically impossible to teach such gaits to a trotting-bred horse. Hackney coach horses, having been bred for action for many generations, often possess much high knee and hock action from colt- hood (Fig. 1). The horse has a good memory. — A habit when fully established implies the use of the memory ; that is, the horse must remember that certain commands or signals call for certain acts. The horse has such a good memory that what he fully understands he sel- dom forgets. The vividness with which events are retained depends on the intensity of the impression and on repetition, or both. Intensity of impression is more serviceable than repetition in fixing ideas in the horse's mind. Painful lessons are long remem- The Intelligence of the Horse 5 bered. It is this principle that is involved in the short, rather severe methods of training. Repetition, however, is extremely useful in all horse training and is absolutely essential when training for special work, as racers, coachers, saddlers and the like. Fig. 1. — Hackney colt, showing high knee and hock action. In training the horse there are three factors in- fluencing the rapidity with which events may be memorized and thus with which habits are formed. First, with mature horses the power of memorizing or making new associations decreases with increasing age. Therefore we should begin with young ani- 6 The Horse and his Master mals. Second, fatigue, either mental or physical, impairs the memory ; hence we should not continue the work so long as to tire out the animal in mind or muscle. Third, the greater the number of ideas associated with the same event the weaker each be- comes. Thus, each response should be developed by a different event. That is, to teach a horse to stop, have him do so at the command 'Vhoa" ; in teach- ing him to back, have him do so at the command ''back" ; and never give the command ''whoa-back" when we wish him to stop, or when we wish him to back, as this confuses the animal. In training the horse's memory, there are two other factors that must be kept constantly in mind. First, there seems to be but slight connection be- tween the two sides of the horse's brain. A horse may be very famihar with an object from one side but when such object is viewed from the other side he may become frightened and much confused. To avoid this confusion, train him to objects first from the ''near" or left side, and when thoroughly famihar with them on this side repeat the process on the "off" or right side. Second, the horse, in his nat- ural state, lives in droves or herds and is never found alone. Because of this tendency to flock together it is easier to drive a number of wild horses than a single wild animal. The domestic horse has not lost this characteristic habit. In view of this, the horse's memory can be more efficiently trained when Memory. The Special Senses 7 worked alone. If worked with another horse, the colt has a natural tendency to imitate rather than to learn, and thus relies on the other horse and not on his own memory. Further, it is not possible to train a horse while angry, sick or otherwise out of condition, as he does not memorize under such cir- cumstances. It is interesting to note that the mule possesses greater intelligence, in some things at least, than the horse. A very good example of this is the case of kicking animals. If a kicking horse, when in har- ness, gets his leg over the trace, he continues to kick until free, even though the legs are injured in the process. On the other hand, if the mule becomes thus entangled, he will remain perfectly quiet and allow himself to be released. The mule seems to be sufficiently intelligent to recognize the folly of need- lessly hurting himself, which is not true of the horse when he becomes confused or excited. TRAINING BY MEANS OF THE SPECIAL SENSES Like man, the horse receives his training and edu- cation through the special organs of feeling, seeing, hearing, smelling and tasting. It is by these special senses that the horse acquires a knowledge of what is expected of him, and no system of training can be successful that fails to take into account the impres- sions that the animal receives by these means. 8 The Horse and his Master The sense of feeling requires patient training. — In the beginning the horse must be accustomed to handhng by his master. The horse should permit every part of the body to be rubbed, but care should be exercised in touching the back of the front legs, the belly and the front of the hind legs, as these parts are very sensitive. Early in life he learns that pres- sure apphed at the halter indicates that he should move forward, and later he learns that a backward pressure on the bit indicates to move backward. The horse familiarizes himself with external objects by the touch, particularly with the nose. Often horses show much alarm at strange objects in familiar places, such as an empty bag lying in the paddock or a hat by the roadside. The horse will usually walk a few steps toward the object and then circle round and round it, gradually reducing the circle, getting nearer and nearer, until finally he puts his nose on the object. He does this to touch the object, and not primarily to smell it. After thus touching the object the horse's alarm disappears. This is simply the animal's method of getting ac- quainted with the strange object. Because of this the horse should be permitted to feel strange objects, such as the harness, the shafts and the like, in order that he may become familiar with them. If this precaution is taken before the harness is placed on the horse's back or before being hitched into the shafts, much needless confusion may be avoided. Training hy Means of the Special Senses 9 Train the sight to objects of fear. — While the sense of sight is of great importance in training horses, it is second to that of feehng. The horse must be taught to recognize his master and to allow him to approach from either side without resentment. With respect to sight, there are two factors that must be kept in mind. First, train the horse to watch where he is going so that he will not stumble over objects in his path. Second, train the sight so that he will not fear objects likely to make him start with terror, such as robes, umbrellas, cars and the like. The horse has a great aversion to robes and it is of importance that he be taught, very early in his life, that such objects are harmless, and thus avoid much confusion later. The horse's range of vision is much more limited than that of man. While there is much discussion as to the advisability of using blinds in training, yet it seems very unwise still further to restrict the sight of the animal. This is especially true while he is being trained, as it is the business of the master to famiharize the animal with all objects he is likely to see later in life. Because of the great importance of having the horse view objects from either side and at all angles, the training should be accomplished with an open bridle. Do not confuse the horse through the hearing. — • The sense of hearing is often called into use in train- ing horses. While the horse hears readily, it must be borne in mind that too many commands only serve 10 The Horse and his Master to confuse him. Further, one command should never be given for two acts. It is a very common thing to hear a driver use the term ^^back" when he wishes the animal to stop and to give the same command when he wishes the horse to move backward. Give few commands and have each stand for a certain act. Do not shout at the horse, as this only serves to con- fuse him. Speak gently but firmly, and if properly trained, he will obey. Sense of smell also used in training. — Because the sense of smell is not used in the same manner as feeling, seeing and hearing it is often neglected al- together. In horse training, the sense of smell can be made useful, as is suggested by the readiness with which the young horse will take a bit and permit him- self to be bridled with a bit and bridle formerly worn by an animal with which the young horse is familiar. In view of this it is well, when convenient, to use har- ness previously worn by an animal of the horse's acquaintance. (See Fig. 13.) Sense of taste indirectly used in training. — In re- warding the young horse for obeying our commands, the sense of taste is useful. Thus, if convenient, when the horse obeys he should be rewarded by a bite of grass, a carrot or a lump of sugar. It is a rather common practice to use a measure of grain or an ear of corn to catch a horse out at pasture. While this is a reward only for an act completed, it often serves to fix the idea in the horse's mind. Objects and Methods of Training 11 THE OBJECTS OF HORSE TRAINING There are four principal objects sought in training a horse: First, to render him quiet both in and out of the stable ; second, to teach him to obey the sig- nals and orders of his master with promptness and precision ; third, to create and establish in the animal the habit of applying his powers to the best advantage; and fourth, to correct any fault, whim or vice that detracts from his usefulness. It is the business of the trainer to guide the horse in such a way as to make it difficult for him to do wrong and exceedingly easy to do right. Since the horse cannot reason, he naturally does those things that are easiest to accomplish. If these acts are bad, we say the horse has bad habits, and if good, we say he has good habits; whereas, with the horse, such acts are simply his way of responding to certain events. Hence we should be ever on the alert to prevent the bad acts by making them very difficult for the horse to accomplish. METHODS OF HORSE TRAINING As horses are exceedingly variable in temper and intelligence, to be successful we must take account of this fact. We should be in possession of va- rious methods for enforcing our commands. This is particularly true of semi-wild horses, or of horses with a tendency to develop certain whims, faults or 12 The Horse and his Master vice, since the removal of the cause of such ailments is the best treatment. The more resourceful the trainer and the greater the number of methods he has at his command, the more successful will be his work. Selecting a method. — The method to select in training a horse is the one that will give the desired results and establish the proper habits. To deter- mine this we must make a careful study of the ani- mal. Note the temper, the disposition, the general action ; in fact, nothing is too insignificant to be con- sidered in this preliminary study of the animal whose habits, either for good or bad, are soon to be estab- lished. In the process of developing a horse it may be necessary to employ many methods. This is particularly true in training for the more exacting work, as fast trotting or pacing, high acting coach work, saddle work, and the like. Rapid methods vs. slow methods. — The methods of training may be divided, in a general way, into two classes : the rapid method and the slow method. In America, the rapid method is usually employed, whereas in the Old World the slow method predomi- nates. A study of these methods reveals the fact that the rapid mode relies on intensity of impres- sion in fixing ideas in the horse's mind, while the slow method depends on repetition to fix the ideas. The most common rapid methods are the '^Rarey method " (p. 208) and the ^ ' Gal vayne method " (p. 2 19) , Methods of Horse Training 13 taking their names from the men who first introduced them into practice. In either method the object is to impress the horse that we are superior and that he must do as commanded. Both methods are very simple. Rarey used harness for laying the horse down (Fig. 66), while Galvayne tied the animal's head to his tail in such a way that he was compelled to go round and round until stupefied (Fig. 71). Both methods have been extensively used, particularly on semi-wild horses and on animals that have been spoiled or have contracted some whim, fault or vice. While either method is fairly efficient, one must not make the mistake of thinking it to be infallible. This is an error frequently made by the professional ^^ horse trainer.'' At best bad habits are often diffi- cult to overcome, and when the horse gets back into his former condition the old tricks also are likely to return. This is especially true of horses that have been spoiled by bad tempered and irritable men who have not the patience to handle a horse. Horses thus spoiled may be cured by changing drivers. Rapid methods permanently effective. — Some per- sons have objected to the rapid method of training on the ground that because it takes only one tenth of the time of the slow method, it is not so permanent in its effect. Such is not the case. As has been pointed out, there are two ways of fixing events in the horse's mind ; one is by intensity of impression, the other by repetition, of which the former is the mor^ 14 The Horse and his Master effective. In fact, without intensity, repetition has but little effect in fixing an impression on the mind. In order to insure permanency of effect in training a horse, one must first establish the habit of obedi- ence. Many fail because they do not understand how to enforce obedience, while many others fail because they do not repeat the act until it becomes fixed in the horse's mind. First make the horse obey, then repeat the process as may be needed. Do not rely upon fixing an event in the horse's mind by having him do the act but once or twice. No matter how strong the act was impressed, in the ma- jority of cases it will soon wear off unless repeated. Therefore continue the act until the habit is formed ; then it is likely to remain permanently. It is important to note that no matter how well a horse may have been cured of a bad habit, he is likely to acquire it again if subjected to the same treatment or management that caused it in the first place. The owner of such a horse, therefore, will do well to change him about after training to over- come the bad habit, which in connection with judi- cious management is very likely to prove permanent in its effect. SAFETY IN HORSE TRAINING In training horses, the methods adopted should be free from physical danger to the horse as well as Safety in Horse Training 15 the man. The habihty of injuring the animal is one objection to some of the rapid methods. Among horses that are very headstrong and unmindful of the signals, it is safer to risk the horse than ourselves. Thus in the case of horses that are very self-asserting it is best to use methods that afford ample protec- tion, even though they are rather severe on the animal. The slow, Old World methods are, §is a rule, much more likely to result in injury to the trainer than some of the rapid American methods. Thus in some of the slow methods the trainer goes boldly up to the horse, to impress upon him that he is not afraid. Such methods are never to be advised, as the risk is too great. We should never give the ani- mal a chance to do that which is likely to result in injury to ourselves or to any one else. If the trainer is exceedingly careful and painstaking, and, as pre- viously suggested, makes it difficult for the horse to do that which he should not and easy to do that which he should, there is very little risk in horse training. MAKE THE HORSE UNDERSTAND AND RESPOND TO ORDERS AND SIGNALS Since the horse cannot understand our spoken language, we must establish certain signals and com- mands that will render him capable of knowing our 16 The Horse and his Master wishes. These should be very simple, and of such a nature as to be understood easily by the horse. From this it follows that in training horses one should not talk to the animals ; this only confuses them. Give few signals and give them as clearly and uniformly as possible. Do not complicate them with other influences, such as the presence of other horses, or undue excitement and the like. Fear and anger also detract from the horse's understanding, and he should not be handled roughly when thus excited. Even with the simplest of signals, much patience is often required to get the horse to comprehend what is wanted. The moment he understands and com- pletes the act desired, quiet him and repeat until the idea becomes fixed. If the horse does not un- derstand and we continue to force signals upon him, as a rule he will become stubborn, impatient and perhaps violent. The thing to do, therefore, is to make the signals very simple, so simple that he can- not do other than as commanded, and when he does understand and completes the act, to repeat until the habit is formed. Exact implicit obedience from the horse. — From the beginning the horse must be taught that he can- not resist us. This is very important in the training of a horse, as he takes no interest in^-obeying. The safety of the trainer as well as the usefulness of the horse requires that he yield himself completely to the guidance of his master. This implicit obedience Necessity of Obedience 17 must be exacted even though it is not in keeping with the horse's natural instincts. The method of trying to induce obedience by petting and humoring is not often practical. Such methods often result in the establishment of undesirable whims. Until he does his work well, the less petting he gets the better animal he will make. This does not mean to punish resisting animals with a whip, — far from it, as such punishment will only make matters worse and is certain to result in the establishment of vicious habits. It does mean, however, to be firni with the horse. Do not attempt too much at one time, but go through with whatever is begun. Give him to understand that you are his master and your will must be done. There are many ways of ac- complishing this, as stated later in the text. REWARD AND PUNISHMENT IN TRAINING HORSES Since the horse can acquire knowledge only by the association of ideas, it is necessary to establish methods whereby he may know when he has done as he should ; also that he may know when he has not acted in accordance with our wishes. Thus when the animal obeys, he should be rewarded, and when he refuses to obey, he should be punished. Reward for obedience may be administered in many ways, such as by the voice, by patting, by giv- ing dainty food, by resting, and the like. The use of 18 The Ho/se and his Master the voice as a means of rewarding animals for obedi- ence is very efficient. The horse readily under- stands the meaning of a soft tone, and is likely to take a harsh tone for a rebuke. Patting and strok- ing the horse with the hand, particularly in the re- gion of the mane and along the neck and shoulders, affords a very expressive means of rewarding him for obedience. Giving a handful of hay, or better still of green grass, a carrot or a lump of sugar, often has the desired effect of associating the command or given signal with the event desired. Resting or ceasing the discipline is also a very efficient means of gaining the good will of the horse, and ma}^ be used to advantage in the management of the reins. Punishing the horse for disobedience is much more difficult than rewarding the animal for obedi- ence. There are many ways of rebuking a diso- bedient animal, the most common being the voice and the whip. The horse will take a harsh tone for a rebuke in much the same manner that he takes a soft tone for a caress. The words used, however, should be few, distinct and significant. No matter what form of punishment is used, we must remember that the benefit to be derived is to induce the horse mentally to associate with it the particular event that we wish to convey. From this it follows that we are justified in inflicting pain only as a means of educating the animal, and never as a penalty for doing wrong. Reward and Punishment in Training Horses 19 The use of the whip. — While the whip is very use- ful in training and in the subsequent management of the horse, there is perhaps no one thing in con- nection with horse training so often misapplied as the whip. This is due, in part at least, to the ease with which it can be applied and to the fact that it is used for two very different purposes : First to in- duce the animal to go forward, and second as a warn- ing that he should not behave in an undesirable manner. This is oftentimes confusing, and the mat- ter is still further complicated when the horse is pun- ished as a penalty for wrong-doing. To avoid this confusion we should give the uses of the whip much consideration. The whip should always be applied at the rear end of the horse when used to encourage him to go forward. The use of the whip should always be preceded by a command, as ^^get up." Never strike the horse before giving the command. To be most efficient the lick should succeed the word so close that the horse cannot help feeling that when the command is given the whip is to follow at once. To avoid the pain of the whip the horse soon learns to start forward at the command alone, when the whip should be put aside. The whip should always be applied along the side of the horse, when used as a warning. One rather sharp cut, depending on the individual, is usually sufficient to bring a horse to his senses. Never whip 20 The Horse and his Master a horse past an object that is causing him fright. Since he can think of but one thing at a time and since he learns by association of ideas, he may as- sociate the pain with the object or he thinks the object is causing the pain. In horse training, a free use of the whip will break the spirit of high- couraged animals and increase the sulkiness of stubborn ones. One sharp cut, or at most a few, immediately following the command ^'take care," is sufficient punishment to warn him against wrong- doing. The horse should never be punished by striking with the whip and jerking on the lines at the same time. This punishing the animal at both ends serves to confuse him, and if he possesses a high spirit some desperate act is likely to follow. To avoid such con- fusion, administer punishment at but one end at a time. REQUIREMENTS IN THE TRAINER The most important essential in the trainer is that he either possess or acquire complete control over himself and his temper. Without complete control over himself it is not possible for him to at- tain the ability to control a horse. Horse training is partly an art and partly a science. To execute the work efficiently requires much patience. Horses vary widely both mentally and physically. Some are quick and docile, while others are stupid and Personal Requirements in the Trainer 21 stubborn. If their lack of understanding or willful disobedience causes their trainer to lose his temper, he will frighten the timid ones out of their senses and provoke the stubborn ones to resistance and perhaps to retaliation. Thus a quick-tempered or irritable trainer is quite likely to develop a bad-tempered horse, while the trainer with an uncontrollable tem- per is equally as likely to develop a really vicious and dangerous horse. To be most successful in training horses, one should possess an even temper, much patience, readiness of resources, sympathy, skill and pluck, all of which can be attained and de- veloped, in part at least, by thoughtful study and much practice. Personal influence of the trainer. — In practical horse training the influence of the trainer is often significant. It often happens that the animal is completely taken up by the one in charge. When the trainer is the onlv one to work the horse sub- sequently, the possession of such personal influence over the animal is often of much advantage. On the other hand, if the trainer is only to educate the animal, then such influence may be a positive hin- drance. The horse may be perfectly safe while under the influence of the trainer, but become re- fractory or even resent interference from any one else. It is the work of the trainer to render the horse perfectly obedient to the commands of his master. No horse can be said to be thoroughly 22 The Horse and his Master trained until he can be managed under all circum- stances by an}^ one familiar with horses. GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS IN HORSE TRAINING Having considered the horse's low degree of in- teUigence and the fact that he can neither reason nor draw conclusions and must learn therefore by as- sociation of ideas; that he possesses an excellent memory which can be easily trained ; that the only means of communicating information to him is by the special senses, particularly those of feehng, see- ing and hearing ; and having considered the objects of training, as well as the more important methods, we may now note some of the more important under- lying principles in the practice of horse training. The earlier in life the training begins the more useful animal he will make. The young horse has fewer ideas of his own and is more willing to accept the direction of a superior intelligence than the older animal. It is therefore of advantage to begin the training in early colthood when at all convenient. In training, we endeavor to increase the horse's serviceability by rendering him readily subservient to our will. In doing this we exaggerate the horse's idea of those of his powers which are useful and at the same time deceive him as to those attributes which if realized might impair his usefulness. Thus the first time a draft horse is hitched to a load much General Statements about Training 23 care should be exercised not to overload him, with a view of developing in him the idea that he can pull anything that has both ends loose. On the other hand, the first time he is tied up by the head, equally as much care should be taken to see that the halter is strong enough to hold him in case he pulls. If the horse pulls and fails to free himself at the first few attempts, he is not likely to try it again, and a string would probably serve as well as a chain to keep him in place thereafter. If, however, he succeeds in free- ing himself at the first attempt, he will never cease trying to repeat it until put through a system of training to cure the habit of pulling back. In developing the spirit of obedience, we should not work the horse too long at a time. If the ani- mal is fatigued, his powers of learning are decreased, and if the training is continued, he becomes con- fused. Fifteen minutes to one half hour is sufficient for a young horse. Five to ten half -hour lessons given in systematic order will accomplish more in preparing the horse to stand severe tests than two years of haphazard training. Since horses differ in temper and disposition, we are obliged to use various methods in rendering them obedient. No set of rules can be laid down that will apply in all cases. While such methods as were employed by Galvayne and Rarey are very effective in subduing semi-wild horses, neither of them will cure many whims, faults or vices to which 24 The Horse and his Master horses are subject. We should make a careful study of the horse and adopt that method which will prove most efficient with the animal in hand. Whatever system of training is employed, to be successful we must exact implicit obedience from the horse at all times. Be gentle yet firm, and go through with whatever is attempted. If at any time, however, the horse cannot be induced to do exactly what is required, make him do something else. Enforce obedience of some kind at the time to prevent him from conceiving the idea that he can dispute his master. If at all possible, however, do not rest until he does that which was asked of him. We should devote our entire attention to the horse in hand and should strive to obtain and keep his attention that he may get an idea of what is expected of him. As soon as he understands what is wanted, repeat in the same manner until the lesson is fixed in his mind. Do not hurry from one lesson to an- other, and do not try to teach too many things at one time, as such only serves to confuse the horse. In training the stubborn, refractory and wild horse, or in subduing the vicious horse, it is of the utmost importance that he be given to understand that he is to obey or suffer accordingly. From the beginning we must use such appliance as will give us the advantage. This can be accomplished in two ways : First by the employment of such appli- ance as will consume the animal's strength, and by General Consideration in Horse Training 25 the use of self-punishing harness, which will inflict the punishment at the instant he violates our wish. As soon as he completes the act desired, whether of his own will or because forced to do so, he should be caressed by feeding a dainty, as this serves to fix the idea in his mind. CHAPTER II TRAINING THE FOAL The foal should be handled and taught a few sim- ple lessons while young. As a rule, the farmer or horse breeder is so very busy at the time the foal is born that the youngster is neglected. He is not given an opportunity to become acquainted with his master. Often he is treated as an outcast. Because he gets in the way or does that which he should not, he is punished. Such treatment may be continued until weaning time, when the youngster is turned out to rough it until three years of age. At this age he is caught up, '^broken," and put to work. Soon the owner begins to wonder why his horse did not attain the size of that of his neighbor's ; why the animal cannot accomplish the work he should ; why he developed such whims as lolling his tongue, stripping his bridle, tearing his blanket, cribbing, wind-sucking, and the like ; and such vice as switching the tail, biting, kicking, balking, running away, and so on, all of which are due to lack of training, care and management while young. 26 Importance of Early Training 27 AGE TO BEGIN TRAINING THE FOAL As it is much easier to train the young tree, or to mold the clay before it sets, so it is much easier to train the foal while young, as he has fewer ideas of his own and fewer fixed habits. If he is thrifty and strong, the very first day of his life is none too soon to begin training. The earlier in life the training begins the easier the task, and the longer it is postponed the greater are the chances of a hard struggle. We can show, rather than force, him to do that which he does not understand. While it is true, no doubt, that at this early age the animal's power of memorizing is undeveloped, it must be remembered that the horse learns by association of ideas only and beginning at so early an age has many advantages aside from training the memory. Perhaps the most important advantage gained by early training is that the youngster becomes ac- quainted with his master at a time when man is the animal's physical superior. This is significant. As has been stated, the horse obeys commands because he feels obliged to do so, and not because he likes to accomplish a task. It is, therefore, of advantage to fix the idea in the foal's mind that he is our mental and physical inferior and must obey. The earlier he comes into possession of this idea the better horse he will make. On the other hand, horses which 28 Training the Foal have roughed it from birth to maturity, having come to know their strength and having their instinct of independence strongly developed, are proportion- ately more difficult to teach to obey. CATCHING AND HANDLING THE FOAL It is of much importance the first time the foal is caught that he be held in such a manner as not to cause him fright. The common practice is to catch the youngster around the neck, which usually frightens him, and as he has never been fast before he runs backward and either frees himself or falls, with the result that he is more difficult to approach the next time. To avoid this, the trainer should make a careful study of the factors governing the movements of the animal. For example, if we touch his hindquarters, he moves forward, and as we have just seen, if we touch his forequarters, he moves backward. If a horse gets his front foot over an obstruction of any kind and feels the pressure on the foot or leg, he goes backward until he frees himself, even though he seriously injures himself in doing so, whereas he could very easily step over the obstruc- tion by a forward movement. If the hind foot is fast, he goes forward in much the same way. Thus we see that pressure in front stimulates a backward movement, while pressure behind stimulates a for- ward movement. This is a very important obser- How to Catch the Foal 29 vation and should always be kept in mind when training a horse. Catch a foal around both ends. — In catching the foal for the first time, gently place one arm under the Fig. 2. — Catching foal the first time. neck and the other under the hams (Fig. 2). If he attempts to go forward, apply pressure at the neck, or if he attempts to go backward, apply the pressure at the hams. If it is desired to have him step for- ward, relieve the pressure at the neck and apply it at 30 Training the Foal the hams, or if it is desired to have him step back- ward, reheve the pressure at the hams and apply it at the neck. If caught in this manner, he will soon become quiet, then he should be handled all over the body and legs. Extra care should be taken when handling the ears, the back of the forelegs, the flanks, and the front of the hind legs, as these parts are extremely sensitive to the touch. This requires only a few minutes and the foal, in all probability, will come to meet you the next time you enter the stall instead of fleeing from you, as he will if you at- tempt to catch him by the neck or even if you pay no attention to him the first time you enter the stall. Foals are naturally very timid. — Perhaps the treat- ment horses have received since their domestica- tion, as well as the brutal treatment their ancestors suffered before domestication, has had much to do with rendering the young naturally timid. Foals of the lighter breeds are more nervous and timid than those of the draft breeds, and require more effort to gain their confidence. If the animals are to reach their greatest usefulness, this natural timidity must be overcome and confidence in man established. This can be accomplished by kind, firm treatment. The occasional use of some relished morsel, such as a lump of sugar, will be of material benefit in over- coming timidity and in establishing confidence. No sudden movements should be made in ap- proaching the foal, as these will make him start and Method of Catching the Foal .31 jump away. In this way, he will soon learn that he can escape being caught. To avoid this we should always go about the young animal in a very quiet manner. Never make a quick movement in catch- ing him, as this will serve to frighten him and make him more difficult to catch the next time. Never attempt to catch him unless sure of success, for if he succeeds in getting away, it is not at all likely that he will forget it soon. Children and thoughtless persons often try to make the youngster show off by doing something to frighten him, as throwing sticks, ^'shooing," running at him and the like. This should never be done. Such actions serve to make the animal more difficult to catch and handle, and in fact may so frighten a highly nervous one- as to cause him to injure himself in an attempt to get away. If it is desired to see the foal in action, lead the mare away and the youngster will follow, when his action may be noted. Secure the foaVs confidence while young. — After catching the foal and handling him as suggested, it is important that we secure his complete confidence before he is set free. If for some reason the young- ster should make his escape after being caught and held fast, but before his confidence is secured, he will be very difficult to catch the next time. In view of this fact much care must be taken to dispell all fear. Loving kindness is an important factor in securing this confidence. Feeding sweets from the 32 Training the Foal palm of the hand, such as a httle granulated sugar pressed between the lips, will aid materially in se- curing the youngster's confidence. Sugar, being sweeter than the dam's milk, seems to give him the idea that we are his friend, and instead of fleeing as we enter the stall he will come to meet us, placing as much confidence in us as in his mother. The im- portance of securing the colt's confidence at this early age is very significant, as he is likely to retain the pleasant recollection throughout life. Avoid confusing the foal. — In handling the foal, we should go about the work coolly and with con- fidence. We should be careful to avoid confusing or exciting him. It must be remembered that there is little connection between the two sides of the ani- mal's brain, and he may be perfectly familiar with us from one side and yet become greatly excited if caught from the other side. To avoid this confusion, handle the foal from both sides. He should become familiar with strange objects from every quarter. In training the youngster, it is important that the first lessons be of such a nature that they can be un- derstood very easily and even more easily accom- plished. The foal of course must understand what is wanted before he can be expected to accomplish the task. When he fully understands what is ex- pected of him, he will do it with surprising rapidity. Confusion resulting from not understanding what is wanted often so excites or frightens the animal Care in Handling the Foal 33 that he is Hkely to do anything, even to fatally in- juring himself by running into telephone poles, gate posts, buildings and the like. Since it is not possible to teach an excited or frightened animal, we must first of all make it clear to him what he is ex- pected to do. Make first lessons short and simple. — In handling the foal, the first few lessons should not exceed fifteen minutes in length, as this is sufficient time to impress an idea on his mind. These early lessons should be exceedingly simple, so as to avoid confusion. Take up one thing at a time, and be sure the colt fully un- derstands what is wanted and how to do it before passing to another. As advancement is made, teach the lessons in the most useful order and always re- peat each in the order taught. Soon the foal can be relied upon to go through the list in order given without a break. On the other hand, if the work is given in a haphazard manner, then all is uncertain as to just what the animal can be depended upon to ac- complish. If the work is continued too long and the colt fatigued either mentally or physically, his power of memorizing is weakened, and if the work is complicated, he may become confused. To avoid this make the work short and simple, particularly in the beginning. Teach the young foal useful things only. — As a rule the foal is full of life, bright and easily taught, and for these reasons he is often taught mischievous 34 Training the Foal tricks, such as rearing, kicking, biting, and the Hke. Since he is hkely to remember, throughout hfe, the impressions made on his mind while young, it goes without saying that such should never be permitted. It is such things that restrict the horse's usefulness. Teach the young animal only such lessons as will be useful to him later in life. As stated, he should be taught to be handled from both sides and at every angle ; teach him the use of the halter so that hu will follow wherever you wish him to go ; the mean- ing of the term ^^whoa," that is, to stop and stand quietly; the meaning of the term '^get up," that is, to move forward, and teach him the meaning of the term ^^back," that is, to move backward. In addi- tion, familiarize the youngster with objects that are likely to cause him fright, show him that such objects will not hurt him, and that he can trust himself to your care with perfect assurance that he will be pro- tected from all harm. TEACHING THE FOAL TO LEAD The best time to teach the foal the use of the halter is when he is about ten days or two weeks old. This is a very important matter, as it is the first time the youngster has been in any part of the harness, and he should be given to understand from the very be- ginning that such will not hurt him and that he must obey the signals given by means of the halter. Many A Cause of Halter-pulling 35 animals which have been very teachable up to this time are often spoiled by improper methods of train- ing to lead, and thus the first impressions they re- ceive as to the use of the halter are bad. In this way the foundation is laid for a confirmed halter- puller, a vice which will materially lessen the future usefulness of the animal (p. 269). This comes about because we are not mindful of the natural tendency of the horse to move backward when pressure is applied at the front and to move forward when the rear end is touched. Without thinking, the halter is placed on his head and we begin to pull on the strap. True to his instincts the foal goes backward. Occa- sionally the face and neck are deformed in this man- ner, as the harder we pull the harder the colt pulls back. It is not necessary to drag the foal by the halter in order to suggest to him that his business is to follow. To avoid all this we need but to remem- ber the animal's natural instinct — pressure in front implies a backward movement, whereas pressure be- hind implies a forward movement. Choose a strong, well fitting halter. — For the foal a web halter is preferable to a leather one, as it is much lighter and softer and not so likely to injure or frighten him. Never use a rope halter on the young foal. An old halter that has been in constant use is better, all things considered, than one that has been hanging up or even a new one that smells of a lot of things that are strange to the animal. 36 Training the Foal It is very important to have the halter fit the head perfectly. Because the foal's head grows so rapidly, colt halters are, as a rule, made too large for the very young animal in order that they may fit later on. The head-stall, brow-band, throat-latch and nose- band should be taken up until they fit, otherwise the pressure will not be applied properly, the cheek- straps may be pulled around against the animal's eyes, the chin-band slip over the nose and the like, all of which must be avoided. It often happens that in taking up the halter, long straps are left hang- ing about the head to annoy the foal. These should be fastened up in some way. It is often rather diffi- cult to adjust the halter to a nervous foal's head, but to be successful one must have patience. Do not be in a hurry, but let the youngster get acquainted with everything as you proceed. With the halter properly adjusted coax the youngster along behind his mother or some accustomed route, as to the water trough and back. If one has sweets available, such as sugar, and permits the youngster to taste of them occasionally, he will soon follow promptly. If he resents, however, other means must be tried. Do not stand in front and try to pull his head ofT, for he will only roll his eyes, shake his head and move back; and above all do not give up. We must now take advantage of the animal's natural instinct and apply pressure at the rear end as we wish him to move forward. Teaching the Foal to Lead 37 The loin-hitch. — Secure a small rope or sash-cord, about ten feet long, tie a loop or fasten a ring in one end, gently place the rope over the foal's back just in front of the hips with the loop or ring on the under Fig. 3. — ;The loin-hitch used in teaching foal to lead. side of the body, so that when the free end of the rope is run through the loop the rope can be closely drawn around the loins and flanks ; pass the rope along under the body between the fore legs, and then up through the ring on the halter or under the jaw strap (Fig. 3). 38 Training the Foal Take the halter strap in one hand, the loin-hitch rope in the other, and stand in front and a little to one side of the foal. Pull gently on the halter strap and as he begins to shake his head give the loin-rope a sharp pull and he will immediately move forward. In fact, he is likely to move forward so rapidly that he will run into you if you stand squarely in front of him. Do not be in a hurry, but give the animal time to get used to the lesson. If he is excited, give him sweets or caress him until he quiets before attempting to give the loin-rope a second pull. When his confidence has been restored, try again, using the loin-rope again if need be. Soon he will follow wherever you lead. All of this requires only five to fifteen or twenty minutes, whereas by the old method — pulling on the halter alone — we have little or no assurance when the foal will follow. TEACHING THE FOAL TO BACK As soon as the foal fully understands the use of the halter and will follow wherever we lead, he should be taught to back. Do not attempt to teach him to back the same day he is taught to lead, but put it over until the next day. Teaching the colt to back is a very important lesson, as it adds materially to his usefulness in later life. All that is required is pressure in front. Take the halter strap in one hand so as to guide the foal in a straight line or in any How to Make him Back 39 desired direction, extend the fingers of the other hand between the points of the shoulders and press gently against the animal, and he will step back (Fig. 4). Fig. 4. — Teaching the foal to back. Reward him for his action and repeat until he will move backward by applying the pressure at the hal- ter alone. Never force the animal by jerking on the halter strap; simply apply pressure in the sensitive chest cavity with the ends of the fingers. In fifteen 40 Training the Foal minutes' time, in addition to leading wherever de- sired, the foal should be willing to back any distance or in any direction. DRIVING THE FOAL WITH LINES By the third day after haltering, if all has gone well and the colt will lead and back, he should be driven with lines. To do this most successfully, a surcingle properly adjusted is required. The surcingle must be provided with a loop on each side, placed well below the center of the body, the lines passed through the loops and fastened to the ring on either side of the halter. Never use a bit in the mouth of a very young animal. Now the lines will pass the hind quarters low and thus prevent the foal from turning with his head toward us, which he will do occasionally if the surcingle is not used. It is very important to keep the reins low in turning to make the guiding process easy. At first, walk close to the animal so as to encourage him to go forward by occasionally touching the rump with one hand while the guiding is done with the other. As sood as he becomes accustomed to being driven he may be touched up with the lines, guided to the right and left, but should . be stopped often to assure him that he is doing well (Fig. 5). Teach the foal "whoa,^^ ''get up,'^ and "back.^^ — Since these three terms are to be used so very much Driving the Foal 41 in the animars later life, he should be taught their meaning very early. For best results these terms should be taught one each day, beginning the next day after the foal has been driven with the lines. After driving for a short time or until the excitement Fig. 5. — Teaching the foal to drive with lines, the surcingle removed. has worn off, give the command ^^whoa," following immediately with a sudden and positive pull on the lines (p. 66). Do not speak loud, but rely more on the pressure applied with the lines. The foal should be rewarded. After waiting a short time start by applying pressure on the rump, and after going until all is right, repeat the command and the pull as before. As soon as he shows indication of stopping 42 Training the Foal at the command, do not pull on the lines. When he stops at the command alone, reward him. The next day, after driving for a short time and stopping at the command ''whoa," the foal should be taught the meaning of the term ''get up." To do this, start the animal by the command "get up," followed immediately by a rather sharp tap upon the rump. Tap the animal according to what he will stand and not so as to frighten him. As soon as he is going normally, stop by the command "whoa" and caress him. Repeat the process until he will start at the command alone. The following day teach the foal the meaning of the term "back." This should first be done in the way already suggested ; that is, by holding the hal- ter in one hand and applying pressure between the shoulder points with the other, at the same time giving the command "back." Repeat until the youngster will move back at the command alone. Now you are ready to snap on the lines and teach him to back from behind. At first it may be necessary to pull on the lines following the command. Repeat and reward him until he will back at the command. By the third day the foal should respond to all three commands. VALUE OF EARLY TRAINING The time required to carry out the above sugges- tions is but fifteen minutes for six consecutive days, Begin Training Early 43 or ninety minutes in all, during which time the youngster has been taught to lead, to drive, to stop at the command ''whoa," to start at the command ''get up" and to back on command. While he is not yet three weeks of age yet he will obey com- mands better than the average horse will ever obey them. The value of training begun thus early cannot be overestimated. It fixes the idea of subordination in the horse's mind at a time in life when no subse- quent treatment can shake it, and even though the time consumed in such training is quite insignificant, it adds as nothing else can to the future usefulness of the animal. There are two objections to training the colt while young. First, want of time on the part of the owner, and second, being trained, the youngster is likely to be driven or put to hard work before he is properly developed. For these reasons the colt is usually permitted to enjoy his independence until such time as he is needed for work, with the result that his general usefulness in many cases is much impaired. A horse should be reasonably mature before he is called upon to do service, but any time spent in his education prior to the date at which he goes to work will be repaid many times in the more satisfactory service that he will render. CHAPTER III TRAINING THE WORK HORSE In training or hitching horses, young or old, there are a few general considerations that should be kept constantly in mind. A horse should never be trusted more than is necessary. Children, women or in- competent men should never be left in charge of horses unless the animals are thoroughly acquainted with them. Many distressing accidents occur from trust- ing old family horses. A good horseman never runs risks when they can be avoided. In handling horses, the safest way is for the attend- ant to remain close to the animal's left shoulder, grasping the bridle close to the mouth with the right hand. In this position the horse is unable to injure him. If the horse becomes fractious, the attendant should stay close to the animal's left shoulder or get entirely out of his reach, for many serious acci- dents have resulted from horses rearing, striking and kicking in play, when being led by an attendant at the end of the lead strap. Never attempt to lead a fractious horse with a halter without looping the rope or tie-strap and slipping it into his mouth in the place of a bit, then running the rope or tie- 44 Harnessing and Hitching 45 strap through the nose-band, thus forming a loop around the lower jaw, in which condition the horse can be easily controlled (p. 199). In bridling, harnessing and saddling a horse the work should be done from the left side. The har- ness should be gently but firmly placed upon the animal. The harness and other equipment should be of good quality and in good repair, and so adjusted as to fit the animal snugly. In hitching a horse into a pair of shafts, the shafts always should be raised and the animal led under or backed into them, or the vehicle drawn forward, as the horse is likely to step on a shaft and break it if backed in while they are on the ground. In hitching, the lines should be fastened into the bit and then placed where they can be reached easily before attaching the horse to the vehicle. In unhitching, the lines should be the last disengaged, and care should be taken that the animal is free from the vehicle before he is led away. Serious accidents often result from leading the horse out of the shafts before the hold- backs are unfastened. In tying to a post or hitching-rack, the horse should be secured by a strong rope or strap placed around his neck, then passed through the ring of the bit and on to the post. It is good practice to obtain a short strap about six inches long, provided with a loose ring and a snap at either end to secure in the bit-ring on either side so the loose ring will remain 46 Training the Work Horse under the lower jaw. Now by snapping the lead- rein or running the tie-strap through this ring, pressure is brought to bear equally on either side in case the horse should pull. A horse should always be tied short, otherwise he may get his foot over the tie-strap, be unable to disengage it, break the tie- strap or the check -rein, become frightened and an accident result. AGE TO TRAIN HORSES FOR WORK At the present time there is much discussion as to the most profitable age at which to train horses for work. Some good horsemen state that they prefer not to have the horse worked until coming four years old, while others think a more useful animal will result if put to light work at two and one half or three years of age. Each of these methods may prove equally successful, depending on conditions. It would seem that these ages might well represent the extremes. As a rule, the horse should not be put to work under two and one half years of age, and even then the work should be light and the working hours short. If the work is too severe, or continued for too long a time, the animal will be retarded in his growth and he will not make as useful a horse as if the training had been delayed a few months. On the other hand, if the horse is thrifty, it is poor economy to keep him in idleness after he is four years of age. Training Young Horses to Work 47 The breed, the individuality and the work per- formed all have a bearing upon the age to begin training. As a rule, the draft breeds mature younger than the lighter breeds, and therefore may be put to moderate work younger. Some individuals develop more rapidly than others, and as they mature earlier they may be put to work younger. The work per- formed likewise has a bearing on the age of training. Thus in the case of the draft horse, where force applied at the collar is required, or in the case of the saddle horse, where the weight is borne upon the horse's back, the animal should be reasonably mature. On the other hand, when the horse is intended for fast work on the race track, many good horsemen feel that the training cannot begin too soon; thus we often find these men constructing miniature tracks around which the animals are led or driven by means of a long line by the time they are weaned, sometimes before. The breed and the work performed exert an influ- ence on the amount of training required. As a rule, the draft breeds are much more easily trained than the lighter breeds. There are two reasons for this : First, the draft breeds are larger, quieter and neither so active nor so high-strung as the lighter types. They are much more easily handled and not so likely to go wrong as the lighter types. Second, the work that draft breeds are called on to perform does not require the continuous training that is required of 48 Training the Work Horse the lighter breeds ; the tasks are not numerous or difficult to learn, whereas the saddle or coach horse may be called upon to do a number of tasks, each of which is hard to learn and requires long and severe training. TRAIN THE HORSE WITHIN AN INCLOSURE In training the horse, it is of great advantage to provide an inclosure, varying in size according to the nature of the training or the temperament of the horse, but for most work twenty-five to fifty feet square will suffice. All obstructions likely to injure or attract the horse's attention, such as wagons, barrels, posts, bricks, stones, sticks and the like, should be removed. If the inclosure is within a barn or under a shed, the ceiling should be at least twelve feet high. No matter where the inclosure, the floor should be of soft earth. Never begin training the horse on cement, brick or even a hard wood floor. Not only is the horse likely to slip and injure himself or the man in charge, but it is often found necessary to lay the horse down to convince him that we are his master, and the likelihood of injury is great if this is attempted on a hard floor, particularly cement or brick. Within such an inclos- ure it is much easier to get the horse's entire atten- tion, and should anything go wrong whereby he should free himself, he will be unable to get away. Training Inclosures. Examining 49 Many advise turning the horse loose within the inclosure in order that he may become accustomed to the place in which he is to receive his early training. EXAMINE THE HORSE BEFORE TRAINING The horse should be carefully examined to see that he is in good physical condition before the training begins. In order to be effective in training, it is necessary to gain the horse's confidence and hold his attention. This is not possible with the animal in poor physical condition. Note the teeth to see if they are uneven or possess sharp edges, which are likely to injure the tongue or jaws. Such edges should be removed with a guarded rasp, otherwise the pain will detract the animal's atten- tion from the lessons we are trying to teach. Note the condition of the feet, and if they are out of pro- portion, level them with the rasp, otherwise the horse will be irregular in his action and may injure himself by interfering. Examine the horse for impaired vision and defective hearing. If his vision is impaired, he may run into objects, or seeing them but dimly may become frightened and uncontrollable. If his hearing is defective, he is at the disadvantage of not being able to understand spoken commands. The disadvantages under which such a horse labors are great, and it is important that such defects be noted in order that we may not ask him to do that E 50 Training the Work Horse which is impossible for him to accomplish. If we pro- ceed with such a horse as if he was normal, he may become confused, frightened, difficult to control and may endanger his own life as well as that of his master. HANDLE THE HORSE BEFORE TRAINING In many cases the horse breeder will not feel war- ranted in taking the time to train the foal as sug- gested in the previous chapter, even though the ani- mal's future usefulness is materially lessened by such neglect. The horse may be given his freedom until old enough to work, perhaps never being taught the use of the halter. Such a horse should first of all be made gentle, so that he will permit his en- tire body to be handled. Some untrained horses are so quiet that they will readily submit to any amount of handling, whereas others offer resistance, even when lightly touched. Familiarizing some horses to the touch requires much patience. Most horses are particularly sensitive about the ears, the under- line and the legs. v It is a common practice to use some form of twitch to attract the horse's attention while handling these sensitive parts. While the use of the twitch is recommended in training vicious or spoiled horses, it should be used on the untrained horse only as a last resort. Kind treatment, well-directed effort Handling previous to Training 51 and patience are preferred to the use of the twitch, and will overcome most horses. In case the horse is very sensitive to the touch and it is not safe for one to get near to caress him with the hand, other means must be devised. The English use a so- called '^ third hand/' which is a stick somewhat simi- lar to a walking stick or cane. With such a stick rub the horse along the top of the neck. The dan- druff collecting about the base of the mane often irri- tates the part so that it itches, and the horse enjoys having it rubbed or scratched. After he has be- come familiar with the stick on top of the neck, pass it back, touching the withers lightly or not at all, and rub the back, the sides, the rump and the like. After a few minutes' work with the stick, the horse learns that he is not going to be harmed and will permit himself to be rubbed with the hand. The horse is now ready for the halter. Choose a strong leather halter, preferably one that has been in constant use, place it on the animal's head and tie securely in the stall. He should be left in the stall for some time in order that he may become familiar with the halter. TRAINING THE HORSE TO LEAD After the horse becomes accustomed to being handled, and familiar with the halter, he should be taught to lead. As this is a very important matter, 52 Training the Work Horse due care should be exercised to avoid a misunder- standing between the horse and his master. The advice given in teaching the foal to lead (p. 34) applies here, but it may be necessary to employ other methods, particularly if the horse is rather stubborn. While the loin-hitch, which was recommended for use on the foal, is often successfully employed on older horses, it sometimes happens that better re- sults can be secured by the use of the tail-hitch or the quarters-hitch. The tail-hitch. — Secure a small rope or sash-cord about ten feet long, tie a stationary loop at one end, place the tail through this loop and bring the free end of the rope forward and pass through the ring on the halter or under the jaw strap. To prevent this slipping over the tail when it gets slack, take a small rope and make a surcingle, placing a ring at the top through which the rope leading from the tail to the halter may pass (Fig. 6). Take the halter strap in one hand the rope in the other, pull gently on the former, and as the horse begins to shake his head or to step back give the latter a sharp pull and the animal will move forward. Caress him until he quiets, and when his confidence has been restored repeat the process, using the rope when needed. In a few minutes the horse will follow where led and the rope may be removed. While this hitch is a very effective method of teach- ing a horse to lead, care should be exercised in its Training the Horse to Lead 53 use. The under side of the tail is very tender and the roughened surface of the rope sometimes provokes the horse to kick, particularly if nervous. With such horses the quarters-hitch is to be preferred. The quarters-hitch. — Secure a small rope, or sash- cord, and tie a large loop at one end. This loop Fig. 6. — The tail-hitch used in teaching the young horse to lead. should be of sufficient size so that when placed in position on the horse it surrounds his quarters, leav- ing the knot well forward, on the back. Pass the free end along the back and through the ring on the halter (Fig. 7). By pulling on this rope pressure is brought on the quarters, and the animal moves forward. This hitch has the advantage that the 54 Training the Work Horse pressure is brought to bear at a place where there is httle or no Hkehhood of injuring the horse, and yet the pressure stimulates a forward movement as well if not better than either the loin- or tail-hitch. TEACH THE HORSE TO FOLLOW WHEN LOOSE In order to facilitate catching the horse when loose, as at pasture, it is of advantage to have him Fig. 7. — The quarters-hitch, used in teaching the young horse to lead. trained to come up to us, and to follow. While there are many methods of teaching the horse to follow, only two are here given, one to be employed on teachable and gentle horses, the other on horses rather stubborn in their disposition. As soon as the teachable horse has been taught to lead, procure a Teaching the Horse to Follow 55 whip, and facing the animal, take a position in front, or slightly to the left, caress him by gently rubbing the whip over his back and rump. When ready to start, say ^^come here," and immediately follow the command by striking the horse on the rump with the whip, which will induce him to walk forward. Walk backward at the same rate as the horse walks forward, giving the command ^^come here" to in- duce him to follow. When he follows at command, place the whip under the left arm. This method may require some time, but with a little patient effort the teachable horse will follow you without the use of either halter or whip. Some horsemen in teaching a horse to follow pre- fer to turn the animal loose in a small inclosure, say twenty-five feet square. It is important that the floor be of earth, and that all objects be removed, as they may attract the colt's attention. If the horse is two years old, or more, some prefer to teach this lesson before training to the use of the halter. When ready, turn the horse loose in the inclosure and snap the whip a few times to attract his attention. Remaining near the center, follow him around a few times, occasionally snapping him about the heels with the whip. Soon he will stop in the corner farthest from you. Walk directly to him, giving him an opportunity to turn to you. If he turns his heels as if to kick or run away, strike him severely about the hind legs. Soon he will understand that 56 Training the Work Horse he exposes himself to punishment by turning away from you. Repeat until he turns his head toward you when approached. As this was the way you wished the horse to turn, he should be rewarded by having his crest scratched with the end of the whip, and if convenient by feed- ing a carrot or other dainty. You are now ready to teach him to follow by the method described above. If he refuses to obey the command ^'come here'' and runs away, strike him sharply about the heels. If he obeys, caress him. Soon the animal will under- stand that he is punished for running away and caressed for following. When he understands this he will follow and you may discard the whip. TRAINING TO THE USES OF THE BIT Perhaps no other factor in the training of horses, whether for work or pleasure, is of greater importance than that of educating to the uses of the bit. The thoroughness with which this is accomplished will go far towards determining their usefulness. Inas- much as the conveyance of the master's desire to the horse's mind for execution is largely through the hands, reins, bit and mouth, little progress can be made and none should be attempted until this means of communication has been established. Before bitting, the mouth should be examined for sores, as it is not possible properly to train a A Good Mouth 57 horse to the uses of the bit while suffering from sore mouth. Such an examination is not difficult. Place the horse where there is good hght. To examine the left side, pass the left hand into the right side of the mouth, grasp the tongue gently, and pull it to one side, but not out of the mouth, which will expose the bar, or branch of the lower jaw on the left side. The thumb of the right hand may now be placed in the roof of the mouth so as to separate the jaws, when the left side of the mouth may be observed. The other side should be examined in a similar way. Importance of a good mouth. — No factor contributes so much to the pleasure, comfort and safety of either rider or driver as a responsive mouth — one that always obeys promptly the slightest instruction from the master. A good mouth — one with sen- sitive bars — is natural to the horse. ^^ Tender," ^^hard," and all kinds of '^ spoiled" mouths result from improper handling. Such spoiled mouths arevery aggravating and often the cause of many other imperfections — tongue lolling, crossing the jaws, hobbling, kicking, balking, running away and the Hke — many of which when well established are very difficult to overcome (p. 249). Bitting the horse. — The object of correct bitting is to preserve, instead of diminish, the natural sensi- tiveness of the bars of the horse's mouth. The kind of bit to use, therefore, is important. Because of 58 Training the Work Horse the importance of correct bitting, many kinds of bits have been devised for training the horse as well as for subsequent use (p. 320). Many of these bits irritate the tender parts and destroy rather than preserve the natural sensitiveness of the lips and bars. While any bit may slightly abrade the lips and bars of the mouth, many of these patent bits produce deep sores. This, of course, renders training to the uses of the bit unnecessarily painful, and may produce a spoiled mouth. The proper bit to use depends on the object sought. Thus in training the saddle horse one type of bit is demanded (p. 151) ; in the coach horse another type (p. 134) ; in the trotting horse still another ; and the work horse responds more readily to a bit differing from any of the above types. Whatever kind of bit is used it should be strong, without being heavy and cumbersome. In train- ing the work horse a straight or slightly curved bar- bit with leather guards, and covered with rubber or leather in case the horse's mouth is tender, can- not be improved upon. Many training bits are provided with keys at- tached to the mouthpiece, which encourage the horse to champ and thus familiarize himself with the bit (Fig. 94, 26 and 27). While key-bits are useful, especially for those horses which persist in keeping a dry mouth, sulkily refusing to champ the bit, as the keys assist in the work of bitting such an ani- Adapting to the Bit 59 mal, they should never be used on nervous horses that champ the straight bit. Occasionally the mouth of a nervous horse is spoiled by the use of the key-bit. In case the horse refuses to champ the bit and the key-bit is used, its usefulness may be increased by smearing the keys and mouthpiece with honey or other sweets, as such materials en- courage the horse to lick and champ the bit. When placing the bit in the horse's mouth for the first time, carefully lift the bridle with the left hand until it is above the eyes, then pass the right hand over the animal's head, quietly lift the poll-piece and place the bridle in position. At the same time open the horse's mouth slightly by pressing the bars under the lower lip with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and guide the bit into the mouth. If the horse refuses to open his mouth, insert the fingers of the left hand into the mouth and tickle the roof. The bit will then slip into the mouth, and it should be arranged so as to lie on the bars. The adjustment of the bridle and the length of the bit are important. The length of the head- stall must be adjusted so as to bring the bit in mild contact with the bars of the mouth. If the head- stall is too short, the bit is drawn up into the mouth too far and the bars as well as the corners of the mouth soon become sore and the animal may be- come vicious ; on the other hand, if too long, the bit drops in the mouth, and the animal becomes care- 60 Training the Work Horse less. The bit should be of proper length for the horse. If it is too long it will pull through the mouth so that the pressure will not be equal on either bar and the horse may become confused (p. 321). The bitting-harness. — The horse can usually be made familiar with the uses of the bit by the appli- cation of the bitting-harness. This harness con- sists of an open bridle with a large, smooth, guarded bit and check-rein, surcingle and crupper and two side lines running from the bit to rings on either side of the surcingle (Fig. 8). If the horse is of a nervous disposition, it will often allay his fear to permit him to smell and feel this harness before placing it on his back (Fig. 13). Arrange the har- ness with much care. With the bitting-harness properly adjusted, turn the horse into the training paddock to familiarize himself with the bit. The check and side-reins should be left slack at first. During the first few lessons the bit should not be retained in the animal's mouth for more than half an hour at a time. He may be given two or perhaps three lessons a day. Subse- quently the lessons may be longer. Gradually from day to day the reins should be shortened, care being taken that they are never made so short as to place the head in an uncomfortable position, or draw the bit so tightly as to make the corners of the mouth sore. The number of lessons necessary to familiarize Training to the Uses of the Bit 61 the horse with the uses of the bit will depend entirely on the individual. Some horses will drive after one or two, while others will require a week or more be- fore they fully understand its uses. Fig. 8. — The bitting-harness, for teaching the uses of the bit During this bitting process some horses acquire the habit of throwing their heads up and down, a habit which when once established is very annoying and often difficult to overcome. Among saddle 62 Training the Work Horse horses the habit is dangerous to the rider. To overcome this, one must use a martingale and an over-draw check-rein (p. 327). Occasionally a horse shows a disposition to carry his head too low, in which case the over-draw check-rein should be used. In common practice there are two other forms of side-reins used on the bitting-harness, the '' elastic" rein, and '^running" rein. The elastic rein is com- posed of rubber and is attached the same as the leather side-rein described above. The leather side- rein is often spoken of as the ^^ fixed rein." The running rein is made from a small rope or sash-cord and is attached as follows : The surcingle and bridle are similar to those described above save both side- and check-rein are removed. Tie the cord or rein in the lower ring of the surcingle on the off- side, pass it through the bit and back through the ring at the top of the surcingle, then down through the bit on the near-side and back to the lower ring on the near-side and tie fast. Instead of tying the ends fast to the rings on the surcingle, this rein is sometimes modified by passing one end up through the ring at the top of the surcingle then down to the other end and tying the two ends together in such a way that they will slip through the rings on both the bridle and surcingle (Fig. 9). Each of these reins has its advantages and disadvantages: the fixed rein sometimes produces horses with ^'lugging" mouths ; the running rein sometimes produces Driving the Horse 63 '^ unresponsive" mouths, and the elastic rein some- times creates a '^boring" horse — one that thrusts P'iG. 9. — Running side-reins, useful in bitting the horse. his nose forward and drops his head at the same time and often snatches the lines through the hands of the driver. DRIVING THE HORSE WITH LINES As soon as the horse becomes familiar with the bit, the side-reins may be substituted for lines and he may be driven about the inclosure. It is important 64 Training the Work Horse to pass the lines through the rings on either side of the surcingle, as the lines will then pass the hind quarters low and thus prevent the horse from turn- ing wdth his head towards us. It is very important to keep the lines low in turning to make the guiding Fig. 10. — Teaching the horse to drive with lines. process easy (Fig. 10). To avoid a mishap at this time, some suggest the use of a long rein to serve as a lead rein if perchance the animal should turn his head towards us while driving. During the first driving lesson the horse should be reined but mildly if at all, since if tight, the rein w^ll have a tendency to induce him to run backward, which should by all means be prevented. Further, Driving the Horse with Lines 65 the horse is Hable to lower his head and give himself a jerk and thus distract his attention from the work in hand. For a few minutes allow the horse consid- erable liberty, in order that he may become accus- tomed to going away from you, at the same time permitting you to walk behind. This first driving lesson should not last long, and the horse should be started by tapping him with the line, and he should be stopped by gentle pressure on the bit. Avoid using spoken language until ready to teach the meaning of the words. The horse should now be taught to guide to the right and to the left. To teach him to turn to the left, slacken the right line and pull smartly on the left one, not wdth a jerk, but with a swinging pull. If the horse comes around too far, hold the whip on the left shoulder. Do not pull him back with the right line, and do not strike him with the whip, as either movement will confuse him. If, however, the horse does not respond when the left line is pulled, tap him on the right shoulder with the whip to in- duce him to turn away quickly and not to give him time to fight the bit. After he has turned a few times to the left, slacken the left side-line and give a swinging pull on the right one to induce him to turn to the right, taking the same precautions as above. Repeat this process, using less and less force as the animal learns to turn. Teaching the command "whoa.^^ — If all has gone 66 Training the Work Horse well, the next day after teaching the horse to drive with the lines, he should be taught the meaning of ^'whoa.'^ This word should be used only when we wish the animal to stop and stand. This is an im- portant matter in the education of the horse. The horse that continues to move after the command is given, or that is continually stepping about when you wish him to stand quietly, is very aggravating, and his usefulness as well as his value is lessened. The safety, comfort and pleasure in handling a horse that promptly obeys the command ^^whoa" are em- phasized by the fact that he will command a higher price on the market. After driving the horse about the inclosure a few times, or until he is going smoothly, give the com- mand ^^whoa," followed by a strong swinging pull on both lines, and the moment the horse stops slacken the lines, otherwise he may become a con- firmed lugger. If necessary to stop the horse, repeat the word and action. As he has done what you wished him to do, he should be caressed before starting again. It will aid the horse in fixing the impression, if he is stopped in the same place for a few times. The second or third time he will stop there at the command alone. Do not stop too many times at one place or there will be difficulty in getting him to pass. About the third or fourth time, therefore, try him at a new place. It may be necessary to follow the command with the action of The Signals or Commands 67 the lines at this new place. Repeat until the horse will stop at any place when commanded. Teaching the command "getup.^^ — The next day after teaching the horse the meaning of the term ''whoa, " he should be taught the command ''get up." Previous to this time the horse should have been started by tapping him on the rump with the line. Drive the horse about the training inclosure several times, frequently stopping him at the command "whoa." When going smoothly, stop him prepara- tory to teaching the meaning of the command "get up." When ready to start, give the command "get up," pausing a moment, then striking him a tap with the whip. This will start him forward. When going smoothly, stop him at the command "whoa." Repeat as before, starting with the term "get up" and stopping with the term "whoa," until he will stop and start at the command alone. It is good practice to impress the meaning of these terms so thoroughly that the horse will obey, even though he be running loose in the inclosure and the commands be given by one standing in the center of the paddock. Teaching the command "back J' — The meaning of the term "back" may be taught immediately following that of "get up." With the horse stand- ing, draw the near line tight, give the command "back" and follow immediately with a sharp swing- ing pull with the off line. This will induce the horse to step backward. Follow with the command and 68 Training the Work Horse give the see-saw pull. Stop at the command ^^ whoa.'^ Do not tire the horse by continually backing him for a prolonged period. Start him forward at the command ^'get up"; stop him at the command ^Svhoa" and repeat the backing lesson at the com- mand ^^back" until he obeys the voice promptly. HARNESSING, HITCHING AND DRIVING THE HORSE To be harnessed is a very important part of the horse's education. Animals that have behaved well up to this time often become confused and not only disobey commands but may become uncontrollable. This comes about naturally when the horse is har- nessed and hitched without proper preparation. We have seen that pressure in front induces the horse to go backward, and that pressure behind induces him to move forward (p. 28). Thus when the horse is harnessed and hitched without proper preparation, and started forward at the command ^'get up," the pressure from the breast-harness or collar induces him to step backward. Now he has received the com- mand to go forward and the stimulus to move back- ward, which confuses him, as he cannot do both. If he disregards the command and obeys the stimulus of the pressure and moves backward, the breeching presses against the quarters, thus inducing him to go forward. The horse's confusion is now greater than before. While he is moving back and forth Poling the Horse 69 between the pressure of the collar and the breeching, he is so excited that he does not heed the commands of the driver, who often becomes aggravated and strikes the animal a sharp cut with the whip. This frightens the already excited horse, and he moves forward with a bound. The driver then jerks him backward and holds a tight line. Thus the horse is punished both at the mouth and in the rear. By this time the animal's confusion is complete, and he is likely to rear, kick, run away or do anything to free himself. A little patient effort spent in familiarizing the horse with the pressure of the harness and shafts, and in teaching him what is expected of him, will avoid all such confusion and risk. Poling the horse. — Before harnessing or hitching, the horse should be made familiar with the pressure caused by the harness and shafts. To do this, procure ^ light pole five or six feet long, and let the horse smell and feel it with his nose (Fig. 11). Gently rub the pole over the nose, the side of the face and up to the mane and . crest. After scratching the crest pass the pole back to the withers, down over the shoulder, and along the outside and inside of the forelegs. Pass the pole along the back to the hind quarters, down along the outside and inside of the hind legs. Repeat the process first on one side, and then on the other, rubbing every part of the body (Fig. 12). 70 Training the Work Horse If at any time the horse should become excited and refuse to stand, allow him to touch the pole with his nose, and gradually work back over him again. After he has become perfectly submissive to the pressure on all parts of his body, it is a good Fig. 11. — Poling the head and nose. plan to place the pole under the tail, as this will teach him to stand while the crupper is being ar- ranged. To do this, stand a little to one side and with the pole touch both hind legs a short distance above the hocks. With the left hand, carefully raise the tail, and with the right hand gently work the pole upward a few inches ; pause a moment and Poling the Horse 71 repeat, until the pole rests directly under the tail, lying across the quarters. After a moment, care- fully raise the tail and gently remove the pole, so as not to frighten the horse. A few repetitions of Fig. 12. — Poling the body and legs. this process will render most horses very easy to crupper. Poling has a very desirable effect upon the horse, especially if the animal is of a nervous and sensitive disposition. It will render him gentle to the touch of the harness, shafts or any other object coming in contact with the body. After harnessing, some continue the poling process by arranging two poles, one on either side of the body, similar to shafts, 72 Training the Work Horse securing the front end by strapping to the hame tugs, and the rear end to the hip-straps and breeching, and then driving the horse about the inclosure a few times. The rear end of the poles is then unstrapped from the hip-straps and permitted to drag on the ground as the horse is being driven about the pad- dock. This has the added advantage of famihariz- ing him with the position and pressure of the shafts as well as to the pressure of the collar and the breech- ing, while in motion. Harnessing the horse. — With the horse properly poled, harnessing is an easy task. Put him in his accustomed stall and allow him to smell and feel the harness (Fig. 13). This is important, for occa- sionally horses are frightened out of their senses by the careless driver throwing the harness over their backs before allowing them to feel and smell it. In this manner, the bands and loose straps striking the animal on the legs and abdomen often provoke kicking. Such excitement can be avoided easily by permitting the horse to smell and feel the harness and by gently lifting it over his back. Carefully raise the tail, and gently put the crupper strap on, then step to the side and fasten the bands. With care, work the breast harness or collar over the head as suggested in bridling (p. 59). While the harness should not be new, smelling of things unfamiliar to the horse, it should be of good quality and in good repair, for if a part breaks there Fitting the Harness 73 may be trouble and the horse ruined for all time. When convenient, use harness that has been in con- stant use. It should be so adjusted as to fit per- fectly. The collar should receive attention, as it is Fig. 13. — The young horse becoming familiar with the harness. by means of this that the horse exerts his power. (For discussion on fitting harness see page 317.) A careful examination of the shoulders and quar- ters of the horse must be made from time to time. Oftentimes the collar that fits perfectly in the begin- ning soon becomes too large, due to the horse losing flesh. The untrained horse's flesh is very tender, and the friction of the harness often produces sore- 74 Training the Work Horse ness. The parts likely to become abraded are the shoulders, caused by the collar; the back, caused by the saddle of the harness; the tail, caused by the crupper ; and the quarters, caused by the breech- ing. At the slightest sign of any abrasion, the train- ing must temporarily cease. Bathe the sore parts with soap and water, then apply an astringent, as salt and water, or alum and water, to harden and heal them. As soon as the soreness has disappeared, the training should be resumed (p. 373). Hitching single. — After harnessing, but before hitching, tie the traces to the ring on each side of the breeching, thus causing a slight pressure on the collar and breeching, and drive the horse about the inclosure. Start him at the command ^'get up," stop him at '^ whoa" and have him move backward at the command '' back." Turn him to the right and left, and when he is going smoothly take him out on the highway. At first, because of the new environment, the horse may act strangely, but go through with all the commands and signals that he has thus far been taught. The horse is now ready to be hitched to a vehicle (Fig. 14). Training-cart. — If at all convenient, the first time the horse is hitched, a training-cart — one with long shafts, substantially constructed, and the seat so ar- ranged that the driver can get off and on quickly — should be employed (Fig. 15). Such a cart can be constructed from the rear wheels and the axle of a Harnessing and Hitching the Horse 75 Fig. 14. — Driving in harness previous to hitching to a vehicle. m Fig. 15. — Acquainting the horse with the training-cart. 76 Training the Work Horse buggy or carriage by fastening two long poles, hick- ory or any tough, springy wood, to the axle and by fastening a cross-bar and whiffletree in front and a board seat in the rear. The shafts should be twelve or fourteen feet long, with provision at the ends for the attachment of a strap across from point to point to prevent the horse, in rearing, from throwing his front legs over the ends of the shafts. Training-carts can be purchased on any market where buggies are sold. Many of these carts are provided with steps in the rear, which add to the utility. Such a cart possesses many advantages, particu- larly in the training of stubborn and unruly horses. In rearing, the horse strikes his front legs against the strap in front and goes no higher ; in kicking, he is so far ahead of the vehicle and driver that he does little or no damage ; in turning around suddenly, he is obliged to make so large a circle that he either gets over his fright or becomes discouraged before going far ; in throwing himself, the shafts are so long and springy that little or no damage is done ; in running away, all that need be done is to give him his head a moment until the muscles of the neck are relaxed, and then, by giving a swinging pull with one line, his head is turned so far to one side that he must either stop or fall; and should the horse refuse to obey the bit in turning around, we have but to dismount, pull gently on one rein and at the same Hitching the Horse to Vehicle 77 time carry the cart around, which will point him in the direction we wish to go. Familiarize the horse with the vehicle. — The horse should be poled again before hitching. Lead the horse up to the vehicle and allow him to smell and feel the shafts. Rub them along his head, neck, Fig. 16. — Acquainting him with the top buggy. shoulders and forelegs, both inside and outside. Lead him up between the shafts, allowing them to rest on his back, then drop them at his feet. Re- peat this process several times and let him smell and feel the cross-bars, dash-board and the like (Figs. 15 and 16). Turn the horse around, draw the vehicle up so that the shafts are even with his heels, and drop them as before. Pull the rig forward and place the shafts on his back, then back it, rubbing 78 Training the Work Horse the shafts over the rump, down along the hind legs both on the outside and inside, dropping them occa- sionally. Finally bring the rig forward until the cross-bar touches the horse's quarters, first gently and then more forcibly. Now the horse may be hitched to the vehicle with Fig. 17. — Hitched for the first time, showing method of attaching the kicking-strap. perfect safety. While there is little or no likelihood that a horse trained as suggested above will give trouble, as a precautionary measure the use of the kicking-strap is suggested. This is a heavy strap placed above the rump just back of the hips and one end buckled to each shaft (Fig. 17). As a further safety measure, it is also recommended that an Handling with a Vehicle 70 assistant remain at the horse's head to aid in starting, stopping and turning if need be. When all is ready, the driver should take his position behind the cart, not on it at first, and start the horse at the command ''get up." At the same time, the assistant should aid by pulling the cart forward. After the horse takes a few steps, stop at the command '' whoa." Repeat until the horse understands what is expected of him. At first it may be necessary for the driver to aid in turning by carrying the cart around, especially if the training inclosure is small. As soon as the horse will obey the commands ''get up" and "whoa" and will guide to the right and left, the driver may mount the cart and drive out on the highway. The assistant should be provided with a long lead strap and should walk along beside the horse until the latter becomes familiar with the new environment. He may then mount the vehicle with the driver, retaining the long lead strap so as to be ready to meet any emergency. The horse should be stopped and started often to assure him that he is doing what is expected of him. After driving at a walk until all is going smoothly, the horse may then be touched up into a trot. Slow down to a walk and repeat. On the return to the training paddock the horse should not go out of a walk. It is not good practice to drive back and forth past the barn during the first lesson, as the colt is likely to want to turn in and he may give some trouble. 80 Training the Work Horse Teaching the command ^^ steady. ^^ — As the com- mand ^^whoa" should be given only when we wish the horse to stop and stand, so is it very important that he be taught the use of the term ^ ^steady" very early in his career. While this term is to be used under a variety of conditions, its general meaning should be to slacken and pay attention. Thus if we wish the horse to maintairi a certain speed, we say ^'steady" in a soothing tone; if we wish him to slack the speed, the same term is used but in a stronger tone ; if the horse is frightened and we wish him to quiet down, the command '^steady" is given in a high tone and the lines are used in a character- istic see-saw manner; and if the horse is about to pull a heavy load and we wish him to pay attention, we give the command in a rather deep tone and hold evenly on the lines. The first usage of the command ^^ steady" that should be taught is that of slackening the speed, as this applies when the horse is excited and we wish him to calm. This requires both judgment and patient effort. When all is going smoothly, encour- age the horse until he is going at a very lively rate, then give the command '^steady," followed by a gentle see-saw motion of the lines. When he slows down to an even trot, caress him by rubbing or strok- ing him over the rump with the whip. Repeat until he will slow down at the command alone. Backing the vehicle. — After the horse has been Driving to Vehicle 81 driven several times and is going smoothly, he should be taught to back the rig. To do this, repeat the lesson on backing (p. 67) before hitching. Some prefer to take a position in front (Fig. 18). This has the advantage that should the horse refuse Fig. 18. — Teaching to back with the lines. to obey the command and the lines, you can assist him (as in Fig. 19) by applying pressure on the chest with the ends of the fingers when, according to the natural impulse, he will step backward. While working in this position, the driver applies the pressure with the right hand, pulls the lines with the left, and gives the command ^^back" at the same time. After the horse learns to back with the 82 Training the Work Horse driver in front, he then takes his position behind the horse and proceeds as in teaching to back (p. 67). Now that the horse obeys the command readily, hitch him to the vehicle and drive part way up a slight elevation. Stop him and give the command ''back," followed by a see-saw motion of the lines. Fig. 19. — Teaching the horse to back a vehicle. To back the rig down such an elevation requires little or no pressure on the breeching. If more convenient, have an assistant take a position in front of the horse (Fig. 19). By employing some such methods as these the animal learns to back the vehicle in a natural manner. Repeat, stop, start, back, turn to the right and left until the horse is familiar with every detail. Train the horse to come under the shafts. — It is very aggravating to be obliged to lead the horse in front of the vehicle, leave him and go back and pull Driving to Vehicle 83 the rig forward, especially if he keeps stepping up and occasionally walks off and leaves us tugging at the shafts. To avoid this, train the horse to come under the shafts from the beginning. Take the horse to the training paddock, hold the whip up to one side and over him and try to make him go under it by pulling his head toward the whip. If he obeys, caress him ; if he refuses, lays back his ears or steps back, reach over and tap him rather lightly with the whip, return it to its former position, and ask him to go under as before. If he refuses, repeat. When he goes under the whip at the signal, hold the shafts up and he will walk under them. If he should refuse, hold the whip in the hand with the shafts. After he steps under the shafts, lower them and arrange the shaft tugs, traces and hold-backs. Caressing with the whip. — Early in the horse's training he should become familiar with the uses of the whip, not only as a means of punishment, but as a means of reward. The way to caress the horse with the whip is to place it gently on the body and carefully stroke or rub the animal. To teach the horse this usage of the whip, take a position in front of him similar to teaching him to follow (p. 54). Begin by rubbing or stroking his mane and crest, then his back, sides, rump and lastly the quarters. As you are stroking him, feed him dainties, as sugar or a carrot. Ask the horse to follow you to some object at the command '^come here," as suggested. 84 Training the Work Horse This object should not be such as to frighten him, as a robe, but something famihar to the horse. Keep caressing him as he follows along by stroking with the whip and by an occasional taste of sugar. After following to a few familiar objects try a strange one, as a robe, since horses are naturally afraid of robes. This time care must be exercised. It may be necessary to try several times before he will touch the robe with his nose, but by constant caress- ing and occasional tastes of sweets he will walk up to it. By this time he has come to look upon the con- stant stroking as a signal that no harm is to come to him. Hitching double. — If the horse is to be worked in a team, his training should be similar to that sug- gested above. When ready to hitch double, get a well-trained, gentle, but active horse, if the one you are training is active, for it is a mistake to hitch a quick, active one with a slow, lazy horse. The vehicle to which they are attached should be pro- vided with a good brake. The horse in training should be hitched to the off side and the team should be driven at first in a closed field. When hitching double for the first time, it is a good practice to keep a pair of single lines on the horse in training, which can be handled by an assistant. If one has two horses in training that he wishes to work together, they can be hitched together at this time if each has been trained as suggested above. If they do not Teaching the Horse not to he Afraid 85 match well in disposition, the impulsive one should be restrained and the slower one urged, so that when hitched together they will have nearly the same gait and respond similarly to the commands (Fig. 20). Fig. 20. — Young horses liitched double for the first time. TRAINING THE HORSE TO OBJECTS OF FEAR The horse should be made familiar with the various sounds and objects he is likely to meet, particularly along the busy thoroughfares of cities. Noise, such as is produced by brass bands, street car gongs, and the fierce shrieking whistles of the railroad engine, and objects such as traction engines, motor cars, trains and the like, is likely to frighten the 86 Training the Work Horse untrained horse out of his senses and he may prove a source of real danger. The horse should be driven once or twice before going through the course to familiarize him with frightful objects. At first his attention is taken up by the pressure of the harness, shafts and the ve- hicle following, and he gives little or no attention to objects along the road, which later may frighten him. For best results in giving this lesson use nothing but the bridle, surcingle and lines. Since the horse should have the free use of his head he should not be reined. To train the horse to endure strange sounds, stand him in the center of the inclosure and at first have an assistant hold the lines. If the horse has not received the command '^ whoa" at various angles, he should at this time. To do this, circle around the horse, giving the command ''whoa" every few steps. Procure an old tin pan or anything that will make a noise and walk around the horse as before. When in front of him gently start the noise. The first time or two around, it may be necessary to stop the noise as you pass behind the horse, par- ticularly if he is very nervous. Gradually increase the racket until by the fourth or fifth round he will stand while you make all the noise you can. You may now give the pan to the assistant and have him walk in front, making all the noise he can while you drive the horse after him, frequently stopping and Objects of Fear 87 starting at the commands. Next have the assistant run, while you drive after him in a trot. To teach the horse to endure strange objects, have the assistant take a position about a rod in front of the horse, facing him, and with his upHfted hands full of old papers. Drive the horse toward the assist- ant, who should move backward as the animal approaches. Drive the animal between the out- stretched arms, and have the assistant carefully close in and gently touch either side of the neck with the papers. Rub them over the head and along the neck to convince the horse that they are harmless. Drop the papers a few at a time and drive over them, per- mitting him to stop and touch them with his nose if he likes. The papers may now be placed in a large pile and the horse driven through them with perfect safety (Fig. 21). In some such manner, the horse should be famil- iarized with other objects, such as umbrellas, flags, objects along the road and the like that are likely to frighten him. In fact, he should be driven up to anything that frightens him in the least and per- mitted to touch it with his nose. It is rather im- portant that the horse very early in his career be made familiar with motor cars, street cars, trains, engines and the like. After he understands the meaning of the term '^steady" (p. 80) and to be caressed by stroking with the whip (p. 83), this should not be difficult to teach. The street car is 88 Training the Work Horse 73 O O "— » O a> a o fcJO O 03 c3 6 Frightened Horses 89 the best object with which to train the horse to strange things, as we know when it is coming and where it is going, which we are never sure of in the case of an automobile. Choose a road or street where the car-hne crosses, drive the horse up to within, say approximately, one hundred yards of the track and stop until a car passes. If he seems nervous, caress him with the whip by stroking or rubbing his back, and by the command '^ steady.'' Drive over the tracks and something like an equal distance beyond, and stop while another car passes. This time the noise is in the rear. Repeat this process, working the horse closer as each car passes, until he will stand within a few feet of the tracks as it passes. If perchance the car should stop at the crossing, drive the horse up to it and let him feel it with his nose. Never whip the horse past an object that causes him fright. At the time he probably is so frightened that he does not notice the blows of the whip until the object is past, in which case he may associate the pain with the object which caused his fright ; or if he does feel the whip, he knows that it cannot do him great injury ; whereas he does not know the possibilities of the object and prefers the blows of the former to facing the latter. In any event whip- ping a frightened horse only increases his excitement and makes him more difficult to drive past the object. The better way is to caress him with the whip and 90 Training the Work Horse command him to go '^steady/' when he will calm, if the signal and command have been taught prop- erly. Then he should be made to face the object, and if convenient, to feel it with his nose. Never let the horse hurry past an object or noise that frightens him. It may take some skillful manipula- tion and much patient effort to familiarize him with all the objects that cause him alarm, but without such training his education is essentially incomplete and at any time he may be frightened out of his senses, become uncontrollable and a serious accident may result. ^^ Family broke ^ — In the show ring, on the horse market, in the sale stables and in fact wherever horses are shown or dealt with the terms ^'family broke'' and ^^ family horse" are used. These terms signify that the horse has been trained so that he is perfectly safe to drive by any one accustomed to handling horses. Such animals are easily harnessed — bridled, cruppered and the like — often will fol- low at the command ''come here," go under the shafts at the signal, stand while being hitched, while mounting the vehicle, arranging the robes and until commanded to go forward. In addition they are familiar with all noise, such as brass bands, car gongs and the like, as well as with all objects, such as auto- mobiles, motor cars, engines, trains and objects by the roadside. The importance of such training is emphasized with horses of this class, since, other Family Horses 91 things being equal, such animals command the higher price on the market. So popular are such horses that most town, county and state fairs as well as horse shows provide special classes for their convenience. Pony for children. — Before attempting to edu- cate a pony for the children, we should be sure that the animal possesses an inherent docile and sweet temper. Train only such a pony as takes kindly to the children and seems to enjoy their company. The work of educating such a pony will be essentially the same as outlined above. He should be taught to obey as suggested for the '^family horse." For best results the children should be permitted to handle and feed him, as he will become attached to whomever feeds and grooms him. TRAIN THE HORSE TO WALK FAST There is no gait so valuable or so much appre- ciated and so practically useful in a horse as a fast square walk. This is as true of the work horse as of the driving or saddle horse. And yet this most prac- tical of all gaits is often entirely neglected in training the horse for his life-work. Perhaps this is due, in part at least, to the fact that we have no figures available as to the rate of speed the average work horse attains at the walk. Consider the case of a man plowing with a 16-inch plow and assuming that it cuts on the average its full capacity. To plow 92 Training the Work Horse one acre the team must travel a little over six miles. Now if we assume that the team walks two miles an hour for a 10-hour day, or twenty miles in all, then the man will plow something over three acres a day. If the team walks three miles an hour for the same length of time, then he will plow almost five acres a day. While it is not possible, perhaps, for one team to pull a 16-inch plow through all kinds of soil at the rate of three miles an hour for ten hours each day, yet this serves to illustrate the value of fast walking. Consider the case of a man harrowing with a 12-foot harrow and the team traveling first at the two-mile and then at the three-mile gait. As he must travel a little over two thirds of a mile in har- rowing one acre, in the former case he will harrow approximately twenty-nine acres a day, while in the latter case almost forty-four acres will be covered in the ten hours. Or consider the case of a man culti- vating corn with a single-rowed cultivator where the rows are three and one half feet apart and the team traveling at the same gaits as before. As the team must travel approximately two and one third miles to cultivate one acre, at the two-mile gait almost eight and one half acres will be cultivated, while at the three-mile gait almost thirteen acres will be cov- ered in the ten hours. Further, there is nothing, perhaps, that will cause a road horse to be driven harder and kept so continually at the trot as a de- ficiency in the walking gait. A Good Walking Gait 93 It is not difficult to train the average horse to walk fast providing the proper methods are employed early in his training. From the very beginning keep the horse walking up to his limit. We should never allow him to mope along at this time, or the habit will become so strongly fixed that it will be difficult to overcome. During the entire training process, therefore, urge him to his limit. If he breaks into a trot, steady him but do not allow him to fall back into a slow walk. Do not ask him to walk too far at a time, but give him practice each day. When one has a fast walking horse available it is a very good plan to place the green horse beside the fast walker and work them together, as this aids in fixing the habit of fast walking. TRAINING THE HORSE FOR HEAVY DRAFT Because of the desire of all horse owners to have their driving horse in presentable condition, much time and patient effort are spent in his education, whereas the slow plodding draft horse that does much of his work in the fields and on back streets is neg- lected. Though his work is very hard, he is very often left in the hands of incompetent drivers, who either do not know how to lighten the animal's bur- den, or do not take sufficient interest. In the fields we often see plow-horses dragging along the plowman, who has the lines around his body, in addition to the 94 Training the Work Horse plow, and since they must pull the former by their mouths, he is by far the more fatiguing. In like manner, on the streets, we often see the driver perched upon the heavily loaded van, holding the lines with extended arms and pulling on the horses' mouths with all his strength, while the already over- loaded animals tug away at the load. On the other hand, we often see careless drivers who permit the lines to hang, thus leaving the horses to stumble along as best they can while at their burdensome task. It is not possible for draft horses to accomplish their maximum usefulness while so driven. In the first case much energy is lost by the constant pulling of the driver, and in the second case the horses are not held together and hence lose energy pulling against each other. Never pull at a horse's mouth one ounce more than is necessary, as the energy is lost, and never drive him without a light touch of the lines so you can just feel the bit and hold him steady. In case the horse is a lugger — one whose mouth has been pulled on until it has become cal- loused — relief can often be gained by dropping the bit into a new place or by changing to a large smooth rubber or leather covered bit, and some even go so far as to recommend the bitless bridle. The better plan is to put the horse into competent hands and then he will be trained properly from the beginning, and his usefulness increased. How to Train for Heavy Draft 95 In training the draft horse, extra care must be exercised to see that he is in good health and entirely free from abrasions likely to give him annoyance. Thus if the animal has a slight sore on the shoulder, back or tail, the draft increases the pain and he as- sociates the effort to pull with the pain and refuses to go into the collar, and the foundation for a balker is laid. It is also important to see that the harness fits perfectly, and that the pressure is equally dis- tributed over the bearing surface (p. 317). Hitch the horse on the off side of an active even-puller, one that will go into the collar at the command and stay until the command ^Svhoa" is given. Choose a smooth, hard road, avoiding soft ground, and if con- venient let the first few loads be of bulky material, as hay or straw. This will serve to fix the idea in the horse's mind that he can pull anything that is loose. Never overload the draft horse in training. The first attempt should be made with a load not exceed- ing 300 pounds. After driving a short distance this may be doubled. Do not ask the young horse to pull more than his share of 1200 or 1500 pounds un- til the idea of going up against the pressure of the collar has become thoroughly fixed in his mind. Never train the young draft horse by hitching to a dragging load, as a plow, harrow, drag or wagon on soft earth. Such loads require constant pres- sure and serve to discourage the animal. In the case of the low hitch the pressure on the shoulders 96 Training the Work Horse and back is at a disadvantage ; he cannot see the results of his efforts ; the constant pressure is hkely to cause sore shoulders and in the case of the plow the horse may be severely jerked in case the plow strikes a stone or root, all of which serves to discour- age and to break his spirit rather than to encourage and inculcate the idea that he can draw anything. As the training continues, the driver should adopt signals to warn the horse of approaching difficulties, and when he should get ready for superb effort. Excellent drivers use different terms ; some whistle, some cluck and some give one command, others another, any of which will serve if properly used, but best usage prefers the command ^^ steady" given in a rather deep tone. At this command the horses square themselves and make ready for the effort. The draft horse should be trained so as gradually to go into the collar and stay there until commanded to cease, as it is the long swinging pull that brings the load. There are many methods of teaching this. When at all convenient, a good way to train the horses to make long steady pulls is to hitch them to a freight car. It requires a constant pull to start the car and the movement is very slow at first but gradually comes faster and easier, which gives the horse much encouragement. This requires patient and cool-headed effort on the part of the driver, but horses thus educated are of great service to mankind. The Lead Horse 97 TRAINING HORSES TO MAKE LEADERS The term "leader" is used in two ways; first it signifies the near or ''lead" horse of a team, and second it is applied to the front or leading team when two or more teams are driven tandem, one fol- lowing the other. The former is employed largely on the farm, the latter in the ^large cities. To be efficient in either position requires extra training. On the farm the driver's hands are often needed to operate the machinery and he is obliged, therefore, to rely on one line, which is attached to the near horse, and on commands, to drive his team. The off horse is attached to the near one by means of a tie- strap and crowding-stick in such a way that the one is obliged to keep even with the other. Since the driver must rely, in part at least, upon spoken words to convey his desires, the leader must be taught these extra signals and commands, such as ''haw" and "gee." In the large cities the merchants find it more profitable to use heavy vans drawn by two or more teams and driven by one man. Since the leading team is so far forward that the driver cannot control it readily with the lines, he is also obliged to rely, in part, on signals and commands, the principal one, in addition to those above, being "yea." Teaching the commands "haw,'^ "^ee" and "yea.'' — When we wish the team to turn to the left, the command "haw" is given, or a steady pull is made 98 Training the Work Horse on the lead line. When it is desired to turn to the right, the command ''gee" is given, or a slight jerk is made on the line. These terms are best taught by providing a pair of lines and placing them on the lead horse and proceeding as sugge^ed for teaching him to turn to the left and right (p. 65), giving the command ''haw," followed by a steady pull on the near hne as we turn to the left, and the command '^gee," followed by a slight jerk on the off line as we turn to the right. Caress and repeat until the horse will turn either way at the command or at the mo- tion of the line. Because of the position of the lines on the leading team, when driving two or more teams the driver is unable often to square the horses on turning, par- ticularly when six or more horses are used, as the slack in the lines is so great that he cannot take it up fast enough; therefore, when the leading team has gone far enough and he wishes it to square itself and go forward, he gives the command "yea." This command should be taught to the leading team ac- cording to the suggestions outlined above for teach- ing "haw" and "gee," by employing long lines and a long whip. When the horse has turned sufficiently, he is squared about with the long whip, immediately followed by the command "yea." These multiple teams are guided to the left and right by the com- mands, by the movement of the lines, or other signals, each driver having a code of his own. The Words to use in Training 99 CHOOSING A VOCABULARY FOR THE WORK HORSE The work horse should be taught few words and each should stand for a definite action. It would be of advantage if a standard vocabulary could be adopted and used all over the land, especially where horses pass from one owner or driver to another. As it is now with each driver using commands and signals of his own, the horse is greatly confused when- ever there is a change of drivers. In fact, if all drivers would agree to use a few of the more common commands for the same actions, the situation would be greatly relieved. Thus far we have suggested six words for general use; they are short, easily taught, and answer most conditions, at least for the work horse. Any teachable horse can be taught to obey all six commands in as many days if a little patient effort is put into the training. The six words that have been recommended for general use, and the actions they stand for, are as follows : — ^^Whoa" means to stop and stand still. This is the most important word of the group and should never be spoken except when the above action is desired, and the horse should understand that he is to remain quiet until commanded to move. Do not use the word to slacken the animal's speed, or to calm him, or when you wish him to move backward. 100 Training the Work Horse '^Get up" means to move forward. The tone should be modified for prompt or dehberate action. This term should be used for increasing the speed. There is no use of employing the words ''hurry" and ''faster" for the draft horse. There is no ob- jection to the "cluck" or "chirrup," but if they are to be used, the horse should be trained to obey them promptly. "Back" means to move backward. Because of the great amount of backing that must be done, this is likewise an important word and the horse should be taught its significance. Do not use this word to slacken or stop the animal. Do not use "whoa- back" or "back-up," — simply "back." The com- mand may be followed by a see-saw motion of the lines, but in no case jerk or yank on the animal's mouth. "Steady" means to give attention to the work in hand. It appUes to a variety of conditions; thus, when the horse is going fast and we wish him to slow down, this term is used ; or when the animal becomes frightened and we wish him to calm ; or when we wish to warn him of approaching danger or difficulty we employ this command, but the voice should be modified to meet the attendant condition (p. 80). "Haw" means to turn to the left, and is preferred to the command "left." "Gee" means to turn to the right, and is preferred to the command " right," How to Handle the Feet 101 GENTLING THE FEET FOR SHOEING To avoid bad habits at shoeing, the horse's feet should be handled before going to the shop. A few Fig. 22. — First position in picking up a front foot. horse owners impose upon the blacksmith by sending their horse to the shop to have him shod in order to assist them in training. The blacksmith cannot 102 Training the Work Horse take the time properly to train the horse. The sur- roundings, the noise and the flying sparks are new to the horse and he becomes excited. Under such Fig. 23. — Second position in picking up a front foot. conditions, when the blacksmith picks up the foot for the first time, the horse struggles, but since he was sent there to be shod the blacksmith retains his hold and after much excitement succeeds in shoeing Gentling the Feet 103 him, but not until the animal has acquired a general dislike to having his feet handled, and a particular hatred of blacksmith shops. This excitement and distrust can be avoided by a little patient effort in Fig. 24. — First position in picking up a rear foot. educating the horse to stand while his feet are being handled. The best way to pick up the foot is to run your left hand down over the shoulder, the fore arm, grasping, say, the near foreleg just above the knee, and to the rear (Fig. 22), and pinching the flexor mus- cle, which stimulates the horse to pick up the foot. 104 Training the Work Horse At the same time press the point of the shoulder with your left elbow, thus throwing the weight from the near to the off leg, and reach down and pick up Fig. 25. — Second position in picking up a rear foot. the horse's foot with the right hand. Hold the foot in the right hand (Fig. 23) for a moment, and then put it down carefully. Never drop the foot, but put it down. Pick it up again as before by the toe and Handling the Hind Feet 105 hold with the right hand. With the left hand reach over, rub the quarter and pinch the flexor muscle just above the hock (Fig. 24). Gently lower the Fig. 26. — Third position in picking up a rear foot. front foot with the right hand and reach down and pick up the hind foot (Fig. 25). Hold for a moment (Fig. 26) then gently place on the ground. Repeat the same process on the off side. Work only as 106 Training the Work Horse fast as the horse understands. If he becomes ex- cited and resists, do not attempt to hold him, but let him have his foot and begin all over again. In handling the feet never allow the horse to bear his weight on you, as he is big and strong enough to hold himself, and will do so when he understands what is expected of him. After handling the feet once it is a good plan to take the hammer and gently tap the hoofs as in shoeing. This gentling requires per- haps fifteen minutes, and after going through the course the horse will never be any trouble to shoe (p. 300). TRAINING TO MOUNT Since the work horse is seldom worked under the saddle, and not much time or effort is spent in train- ing him to mount, a short and quick method is given here, though the matter is taken up at some length, and modern methods are given, in the chapter on training the saddle horse (p. 155). In training a horse to mount be very careful that he does not suc- ceed in dislodging you, for if once he succeeds in get- ting you off his back, it will take some time to con- vince him that he cannot do it again. The best time to take the horse is after he has been exercised vigorously and while tired. The best place is on soft ground, where the horse can hurt neither him- self nor the rider. Put on the saddle as suggested in harnessing (p. 72), and make sure that it is fastened Mounting 107 securely. Have an assistant hold the horse's head while you mount. To steady the animal, some recom- mend the use of the noose- or rope- twitch (p. 197). The horse may rear, bound forward, buck or lie down. In any event, the rider must stay on, remembering that the horse is already tired and on soft ground. It is often an endurance trial, and this is the reason why one must have the horse tired to begin with, for otherwise he may be able to bound and buck till the rider is so exhausted that he can no longer main- tain his position on the saddle. When the horse calms, caress him and repeat until he stands quietly while you mount. CHAPTER IV TRAINING THE TROTTER, COACHER AND ROADSTER Training horses for speed, high action and style requires much patient effort, unUmited tact and na- tive abihty. No set of rules can be laid down that will apply in every case. No two horses are of the same disposition or temperament, and the successful training of each is a law unto itself. While study and the experience of others may serve to increase one's skill, he will never be reheved of the necessity of using his own resources. The method is still further complicated by the fact that while there are many horses that have a tendency to show speed, action and style, and which can undoubtedly have the same very much improved by the adoption of a proper system of training, there are a great many others without this inclination and which it is hopeless to try to develop to a degree that makes it worth while spending time and effort on them. Since the method employed must be modified to meet the needs of the animal and the convenience of the trainer, only a general plan is given, which applies especially to the trotter, but which is to be modified as circumstance 108 When to Begin Training 109 demands. The plan is followed by a discussion of factors important in training horses of all classes. AGE TQ BEGIN TRAINING There is much difference of opinion among horse- men as to the proper age to begin training the colt in order to develop maximum speed, style and ac- tion. Some say to begin before the colt is born, which, of course, would lead to a discussion of breed- ing, while others say that the youngster should be well developed before his training begins, particu- larly when high action is desired, as in the coach horse. There is a general feeling, however, espe- cially in the case of the trotting horse, that the train- ing cannot begin too soon, especially if the animal is to be raced while young. Some excellent horse- men are strong in their belief that the prejudice against early training .in the past has hindered the progress in breeding horses for speed. The fact that early breeders were obliged to wait many years for returns from the capital invested, no doubt di- verted attention from breeding trotters. Horse breeders desire quick returns, hence they breed ani- mals that trot young. There can be no doubt that the younger a trotter makes a good record and a coacher shows his style and action, the quicker the breeder can turn his investment into cash and if they go wrong at two years old, they are a cheaper 110 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster failure than if they go wrong at five or six years of age. The effect of breeding for early maturity and early training upon the future usefulness of the horse is a much discussed question. Formerly many breeders were of the opinion that such practice had a tendency to weaken the horse, while others were equally as certain that both early maturity and early training better fitted the animal to perform his life-w^ork. Volumes have been written upon this particular question. As a rule at the present time, practical men favor early maturity, though they agree that early training calls for much more tact and judgment than the training of a mature animal. They are strong in the conviction that the colt can be trained for speed from his infancy and that such training, if judiciously given, will prove a great and lasting bene- fit and make him a better aged horse. METHOD OF TRAINING WHILE YOUNG The youngster should be trained much as sug- gested in the discussion on training the foal (p. 26). With the lighter and more active types of horses it is very important that they be handled and taught to lead with halter and drive with lines as suggested. It is essential that the colt's entire confidence be se- cured and maintained, otherwise the trainer must work at a disadvantage. To be successful, a mutual Small Training Track 111 understanding must exist between the animal and his master. The training yard. — Since the youngsters are to be put into training very early in life, ample provision should be made for their accommodation. A small training track is almost indispensable for the young trotters, and a yard or track for the coachers. The small track should be laid off oblong similar to a race track, with proportionate turns and stretches. The length over all should not be less than 140 feet and the width not less than 65 feet. The track it- self should be 10 to 12 feet wide and if convenient should be covered so as to be of service the year around. It should be made of earth good for the feet and should be kept deep and soft. At the turns, the earth should be thrown up two or three inches to the foot, to facilitate turning. The construction of the inside fence requires special consideration. The posts should be few in number so as not to obstruct the view of the colt's legs when in action. They should be inclined toward the track in such a manner that the inner rail will prevent the colt from injuring his legs by striking the fence. As a further precaution the posts and railing should be slightly rounded by removing the sharp edges. This inner rail, which should be about six inches wide and of good material, should be placed about as high as the yearling's body. There is no need of a wheel board as the little track is not in- 112 Training the Trotter , Coacher and Roadster tended for vehicles, but simply for the exercise of the youngster before hitching. Plan for training the young colt. — Very early in the colt's life one should decide upon a method of procedure. This should include the daily routine work as well as a consideration of the time it is desired to race him, since this will modify the method, as racing at two years old calls for a different plan of preparation than if not raced until later in life. Thus the daily feeding, watering, grooming and exer- cising should be so arranged as to meet the conditions. The importance of an orderly procedure in all that pertains to the care and management of the colt in training for speed or high action cannot be over- estimated. He must be so skillfully handled as to bring out the best there is in him. The colt should be fed regularly and up to the limit of his appetite from the beginning, in order to keep him strong. It is not possible to get the colt, under fifteen months of age, too fat if properly groomed and exercised. He should be provided with fresh water at all times, in order that he may not drink to excess (p. 355). Grooming the colt requires special attention. The colt should be thoroughly cleaned each morning, giving extra care to the legs and feet. The hoofs should be cleaned twice daily by removing all for- eign materials that have collected in the clefts and about the frog. They should be kept level and so Training while Young 113 trimmed as to preserve the natural attitude of the colt's legs, otherwise he is likely to develop unsound legs. This trimming should be done with a rasp (p. 357). In order to develop strength and endurance, it is important that the colt be exercised regularly. This will increase his heart and lung capacity and harden his muscles so that he will be able to endure the hardships of later life. In exercising the colt to develop speed and action, extra attention must be given to the protection of the legs. At any time the youngster may become excited and strike him- self, often inflicting serious injury. To avoid this the colt's legs should be well protected by shin- and quarter-boots, properly fitted so that they will not chafe the legs (p. 375). Such boots can be obtained at the harness shop (Fig. 27). Exercising on small track. — When all is in readi- ness, lead the colt around the track a few times un- til he becomes familiar with it, then unsnap the lead-strap and follow him around several times. Do not hurry, but give him time to become recon- ciled to his new surroundings. On the other hand if he wants to run, let him do so at first, or until he has had his frolic; then endeavor to keep him at a trot as much as possible. The colt should now be taught to use the miniature track. Tliis can best be accomplished by two men, provided with whips to which are attached long lashes. One man should 114 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster stand near either end inside the inclosure and by holding up the whip teach the colt to go around the Fig. 27. — Boots for protecting the feet and legs of the horse. 1, Quarter- boot ; 2, hind leg scalping-boot ; 3, shin-and-ankle-boot ; 4. knee-boot ; 5, front leg ankle-boot ; 6, hock-and-hind-leg-boot ; 7, knee-and-arm- boot. Training on the Small Track 115 turns rather slowly, and by cracking the whip urge him through the stretches. After the colt under- stands what is wanted do not allow him to run ; if he should break go toward the rail and hold the whip out before him, and if he refuses to slow down to a trot slash it across the track in front of him, exer- cising due care never to strike him about the head. By using a little tact the colt will soon understand what is expected of him and you will be surprised to see how he will take the turns slowly but go through the stretches up to his limit. After a few rounds, with two or three sharp brushes through the stretches, let him stop to rest if he wishes. This affords a good opportunity to caress him in order to assure him that he is doing as we wish. After a moment start the colt around the other way. Do not permit him to make the turns always in one direction, as this has a tendency to make his action irregular. Care must be exercised in starting the colt or in urging him, to prevent scaring him. Teach him to respond to the crack of the whip and do not ''shoo" him or make any unnecessary noise to get him to show his action. Do not tire the colt. — About fifteen minutes is sufficient time to keep the youngster on the track. The object sought is to create in the colt's mind a love for the exercise, rather than a dread or a dis- dain for the track. This can be done by permitting the colt some freedom and by caressing him often 116 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster to assure him he is doing well. At this age his mind is receptive, the trotting habit is easily fixed and at the same time he acquires speed and steadiness of action. To overwork the colt at this age not only stops the progress of his education, but he really goes back in that he loses directness of action so essential to horses of speed and high action. While the colt should not be exercised too long at a time, he may be worked safely two times a day if convenient. In the beginning it is a much better plan to give him two fifteen minute periods, one in the morning and the other in the afternoon, than to work him for one half-hour period. As the colt ac- quires strength and endurance the length of the exer- cise period may be increased gradually, but always keep on the safe side and underwork rather than over- work the youngster. It is a good plan to let the colt rest two or three days each month and if convenient to turn him to pasture where he can have perfect freedom. This serves to break the monotony of the daily exercise and freshens him. After a few days of such freedom he will take his exercise more keenly and with greater vim. The few days of idleness seem to stimulate a desire for the daily exercise so that the colt will gain faster than if he be worked continuously. During these early exercising periods the colt should be studied critically. Note carefully the carriage of the head, as this will be of advantage in Advantages of Training while Young 117 adjusting the check-rein when put in harness. Ob- serve his natural action and balance that you may know how to treat him in the future. The gait must receive much careful attention and any hitching or roughness in the action be immediately remedied. In order to develop maximum speed and action, this early training calls for coolness, watchfulness and tact. A study of the peculiarities of the individual colt is a very important part of the trainer's work. If the colt is thrifty and strong, he may be worked in some such manner until about fifteen months of age, when he should be trained to harness. While such work requires time and calls for patient effort and native ability, if properly conducted it will bring out many peculiarities of the colt. In the first place it will indicate his possibilities, and one can form a fair idea of the kind of a horse he is going to make ; or at least, if there is nothing in him he will have demonstrated the fact long before he is fifteen months of age. In the second place, it will bring out his natural carriage and action. Up to this age he must rely upon himself, and such action as he possesses he has acquired without assistance, and if studied care- fully one can form an idea of how properly to balance him. Furthermore, early training develops a good disposition. The colt grows up under control and never knows absolute freedom. Before he is strong enough to make stubborn resistance, he is taught that there is nothing to resist and hence he never 118 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster feels subjection. This serves to keep him in good spirit and he develops an even temper. On the other hand, if the colt is given his freedom until quite mature, he resents control and often becomes so headstrong that he may be physically and mentally ruined in training. EARLY TRAINING IN HARNESS The colt may be taught the uses of the bit and made familiar with the pressure of the harness as suggested for training the work horse (pp. 56 to 84). It is important to have him thoroughly obedient to the lines and perfectly accustomed to the harness before hitching. In order to improve the action . and to increase the steadiness of the gait many excellent horsemen recom- mend hitching double the first few times. They think that the training-cart with its long shafts and constant jarring motion interferes with the action, and throws the colt out of balance. On the other hand, many trainers use nothing but the cart and experience no more difficulty in balancing than those who use the double rig. In case the colt is worked double, procure a vehicle of light construction and hitch by the side of a gen- tle, reliable and well-balanced horse. The first few lessons in harness must be short. Drive the team through the stretches of the track, or over a soft First Training in Harness 119 earth road, at an easy, steady gait for about fifteen minutes, then take the youngster out of the harness. Continue these lessons twice daily, morning and after- noon, for some time, gradually increasing the work, and hitching the colt alternately each time on either side of the staid mate. This part of the training is not to increase the speed, but to educate the colt to harness and at the same time to improve his action. The colt is now ready for work in single harness. For the first few lessons in single harness, many pre- fer to use the skeleton wagon, as it interferes less with the action. After a short drive by the side of the staid mate, quietly take the colt out of the double rig and hitch to the single vehicle. Drive at an easy and steady gait for about fifteen minutes. Con- tinue this work until the colt is thoroughly familiar with the vehicle and can be depended on to obey the voice and lines. Now he may be hitched to the cart or sulky with little or no risk. The amount and kind of training will depend on the object sought. If the colt is to trot as a yearling, he will require work twice daily. This work should be short but sharp and speed-making. Colts and yearlings require little or no jogging. Drive the youngster a good fast gait for about 200 yards. Turn him slowly, giving ample time to catch his breath and let him go back a little faster. After going about the same distance, slow down, turn slowly as before and drive him up the stretch again, 120 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster this time gradually increasing the speed until he is going his limit at the end of the 200 yard brush. After this sharp brush give him a little longer to breathe than before. Now let him out and drive back, carrying him to his limit again. This will be sufficient work for the morning exercise. Take the youngster to the stable, remove the harness and boots, give him a very little water to drink, rub him off lightly and then walk him a few minutes. This part of the work should be done in a stable, shed or protected area free from cold drafts. After w^alking, place him in a well-ventilated box-stall and leave him undisturbed so that he may lie down and rest. Since young animals recover from the effect of work more rapidly than older ones, the former may be exercised twice daily with little or no risk until two years of age, providing, of course, good judgment is used and the work never overdone. In the after- noon put the colt through the same course as sug- gested for the morning, which will provide sufficient exercise for the day. In this early training much care must be exercised not to overwork the colt. The first sign of track-weariness should be followed by a few days' rest. Continue the work daily as outlined, with little or no increase for the first two weeks, after which the number of brushes and the speed may be increased gradually. With young colts it is thought best not to increase the length of the brushes, as they will Study the Horse 121 prove too fatiguing. It is a good plan to continue the practice of giving the colt two or three days' rest each month (p. 116). Young animals do not need to be blanketed, sweated, scraped or physicked. They do not take on fat internally like mature ones and do not need to be reduced. Such practice has a tendency to stop growth and muscular development, whereas the youngsters require conditions favorable to physical development in order that they may increase in strength and endurance. Study individual peculiarities. — The one fixed rule, that applies in training all horses, is to study each individual critically. It is this one character- istic more than any other that makes successful horse trainers. At this time the colt is begin- ning his track work and it is of the utmost impor- tance that he be directed properly. The bitting, checking, harnessing and shoeing are all important factors in balancing and gaiting. If the youngster is not traveling perfectly square, if there is any rough- ness in his gait, or if he is in any way out of balance, he is not developing that smooth, steady and direct action so essential in the attainment of rnaximum speed or stylish action. Study the individual and adopt such methods as will keep him going true, smootn and level. Never drive him faster than he can go squarely, and he will develop speed and action if it is in him. 122 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster The shoeing of each colt requires special attention. While much has been written on shoeing and weight- ing to improve action, experienced horsemen state that each colt is an experiment and that no rule can be made that will apply to all. To be successful, therefore, one must make a careful study of the needs of each individual. If toe-weights improve the ac- tion, apply them; if not, dis- regard their use (Fig. 28). It is often necessary to shoe behind very early in order to boot properly. In such cases a very light shoe or plate should be used. Much care must be exercised in fitting the shoe, for should the colt strike or interfere, he will not extend himself, thus limiting or interfering with his action (p. 139). Another individual peculiarity is the amount of work the colt can stand. Some can endure twice the work of others, so that it requires constant vigilance not to overwork. When the colt is going nicely the tendency is to drive him another brush, which is continued until he is fatigued. This should not be done. Never continue the exercise beyond the point where the colt can improve with the next step. The tired colt loses control of his legs and feet ; his Fig. 28. — One type of toe- weight. Training the Mature Colt 123 action is irregular ; he falters in his g^it, hitching and hobbling along ; he may even strike and injure himself or he may break and run. No progress can be made in training a tired horse, and in fact, he loses precision in action. If the training is conducted properly, the first year in harness will have a marked effect upon the colt. The lungs will develop with the muscles, and the legs will attain a hard, clean substance capable of enduring great strain. His speed and action will improve with his physical development and he will move with clock-like precision. On the other hand, if the training is not properly conducted, if each individual is not critically studied and his needs supplied, the consequence will be as far-reaching, though with disastrous results. TRAINING THE TWO- AND THREE-YEAR-OLD As the colt increases in age and strength the work may be increased gradually, the exact amount de- pending on the endurance of the individual. To improve the speed, many trainers continue the short brushes, though the distance driven is gradually increased, starting at about 200 yards with the young- ster, working up to three-eighths-mile brushes with the two-year-old, and one half mile brushes with the three-year-old horse. The number of brushes given at each exercise likewise depends on the indi- 124 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster vidual. By careful observation one can soon learn to judge when a horse has sufficient work. The number of lessons given daily will depend on the amount and severity of the work. If the exercise is rather light and not too fatiguing, two short les- sons are preferred, whereas if the work is fast and severe one is recommended. The often-repeated sharp brushes are the speed-makers and should be employed when convenient. When this system is used, it is important that the brushes be driven at various places along the track. If the work is con- tinued too long in one place, the colt acquires the habit of slowing down and turning at this particular place. Another annoying habit youngsters often acquire is that of turning out every time they pass the gate leading to the stables. To overcome this, avoid slowing down or turning near the gate and brush past it, then turn and walk back. As the time approaches for the horse to enter the race, his endurance must be improved. Thus far it has been a matter of developing speed, without which no horse can win. While the brush system — going a short distance at a fast rate rather than a long dis- tance at a slow rate — develops the muscles and lungs and improves the speed, it does not prepare the horse to withstand the numerous heats of a long- drawn race. To illustrate one method of increasing the endurance a daily program is given. Training for One Day 125 DAILY PROGRAM FOR A HORSE IN TRAINING Give the horse a drink the first thing in the morn- ing, or if preferred keep a bucket of water in his box over night. For the morning ration, feed one fourth of the daily allowance. It should' be in condition to be easily and rapidly consumed. Nothing is better than clean, sound oats and sweet, well-cured timothy hay harvested rather early. Never feed new oats or new hay. After breakfast thoroughly groom the horse, giving special attention to the legs and soles of the feet. If convenient, walk him in the dew. Now hitch him to the sulky and give him an early jog of a few miles. Take him to the stable, remove the harness and boots and bandage his legs. Walk him a few minutes, remove the bandages and hand-rub the legs. Give him a drink of fresh water and place him in the box-stall with his head loose and leave the animal undisturbed. In two or three hours, some trainers give the horse his real work for the day, while others prefer to work out in the afternoons. The amount and kind will depend on the individual. At this time give him three or four rather sharp brushes, carrying him well up to his limit at the close of the last one. Take him to the stable, remove the harness, blanket him, and remove the boots. Next scrape him off lightly, exercising much care not to let him get cold or to keep him so warm as to require a second scraping. 126 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster After scraping, quickly rub the loins and muscles of the shoulders with a lotion of arnica, rum and water. Rub the legs, especially the joints and ten- dons, with the following application : sugar of lead 2 ounces, laudanum 2 ounces, and water 1 quart. After this they should be carefully bandaged.. If the horse shows distress, some prefer a body-wash made of warm water and Medford rum, to which a little salt has been added. This lotion is applied over the muscles of the shoulders and loins. Blan- ket at once, place a light hood over the head and walk slowly for fifteen minutes to half an hour, per- mitting the animal to stop occasionally if he likes. When dry or nearly so take him to his stall and rub him out. Bandaging the legs properly calls for some skill. The function of the bandage is to support the ankle and tendons until they have rested after the strain of hard work. Many persons leave the heels and under part of the ankles exposed, whereas the lower part of the ankle needs the support furnished by the bandage equally as much as the upper part of the leg. The bandage, therefore, should be set fairly tight and wrapped well down around and under the fetlock. It should be left on one or two hours. Now that the animal is dry and thoroughly cleaned, he is ready for the noon meal. First give him a drink of fresh, cool water and then feed him another quarter of his daily allowance. He should now be left Evening Care 127 quiet until time for the afternoon walk, at which time he should be watered again. Some time during the afternoon give him a good walk, and if convenient, allow him to eat a Httle green grass. In the evening, offer him another drink and feed the remainder of the day's ration. Thus the heavy feeding comes at night when there is sufficient time to consume the ration and no exercise to follow im- mediately after feeding. In about two hours after giving the evening ration, water again and arrange the bedding for the night. Before leaving for the night, however, the feet and legs should receive extra attention. The feet should be cleaned care- fully and washed out. If dry, they should be packed with clay mud. Avoid the use of such material as cow-dung, as it often causes such diseases as thrush, canker and the Hke ; also avoid using oil, as it has a tendency to make the hoof brittle. The legs should be hand-rubbed, and if slightly inflamed, witch- hazel or the sugar-of-lead-laudanum lotion should be applied. TRAINING FOR THE RACE In preparing a horse for the race, first make a thorough physical examination, as good health is essential, and without it no horse can win, even though his breeding be of the best and his training perfect. If the physical condition is satisfactory, begin the preparation by working from three to five 128 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster miles daily at a very moderate gait. Gradually increase the number of miles to suit the individual. After a time, if the horse conditions nicely, let him go twice each week, Tuesday and Friday, and finish the exercise by carrying him well up to his limit for a quarter mile. Continue this until fair weather in the spring, and then begin giving slow repeats. During this part of the training, it is a good plan to score (driving under the wire) the horse a few times each day. By a little patient effort he can be trained so that there will be no difficulty in getting off properly at any time it is desired to start him. About the first of May it will be necessary to begin working the horse in mile heats at regular intervals of twenty to twenty-five minutes. This should be done twice each week, say Tuesday and Friday. While the number of heats to be given will depend on the endurance of the individual, it is recommended that he be worked in at least five. At first some of these heats should be finished by carrying him well up to his limit for a quarter or half mile. As a rule, successful horsemen do not like much fast work after the horse is ready. They usually work him three to eight seconds from where he is to start, and continue the brush work, often finishing at the top of the horse's speed, but ex- ercising much care never to push him off his feet. This calls for judgment of the gait on behalf of the trainer, but the successful driver will have studied Exercise before the Race 129 his horse so critically that by this time he knows just what to depend on. Preparing for the race. — The evening before and the morning of the race, feed the horse his usual ra- tion. After breakfast give him his morning jog of three or four miles and care for him much as sug- gested in the daily program (p. 125). Be sure to give a light feed after the jog, exercising care that he does not gorge. In the case of horses that eat their bedding, it may be necessary to provide a muz- zle. About eleven o'clock give a fresh drink and feed the usual noon ration. In two hours, or shortly before the time for calling the race, hitch him to the sulky and jog two or three miles. Now let him out, carrying him well within himself for one mile, but at some point driving him to the limit to see that he has his speed. Take him to the stable, and by the time he has been cooled out as suggested in the daily program, the hour for the race will have arrived. DRIVING Now that we have followed the education of the trotter from the time he was foaled to the sound of the bell calling him to the race, we will consider fac- tors of more general application, such as driving ; improving the action by bitting, shoeing and condi- tioning ; injurious results of defective action, as inter- fering, forging, overreaching, hitching and like topics. 130 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster Attention has already been directed to the neces- sity of preserving the sensitiveness of the colt's mouth, when educating him, by the use of a bit covered with leather (p. 57) and of the desirabihty of educating the draft horse to a light rein (p. 93). Such training is commonly known as ^^mouthing, " and is of much importance. The manner in which the lines are held in driving is commonly known as ''hands," and designated ''good hands" or "bad hands" as the case may be. Good hands signifies the delicacy of touch that never pulls at a horse's mouth more than is neces- sary, and never, on any account, when it is not necessary. To acquire this, calls for natural adap- tation and skill. A light but firm, an elastic but steady hold on the line is what is desired. Good hands are rather indefinable, and methods of acquir- ing them cannot be imparted by written or spoken words. The importance of good hands and the necessity of preserving the natural sensitiveness of the horse's mouth become apparent when we con- sider that our every wish or command is communi- cated to the horse along the lines to a bit in his mouth, and especially when we take into account the fact that man's strength is insignificant when compared to that of a horse. On the other hand, bad hands signify all other methods of holding the lines. As a rule, we drive with too tight a hne. Pulling hands make lugging horses. Effects of Careless Driving 131 When the driver pulls on the mouth it hurts. The horse finds, however, if he gives in and slows down, that he is touched with the whip to make him '^ drive up to the bit." He soon learns, also, that the harder he makes the driver pull at his mouth the less pain- ful it becomes. This is due to the pressure shutting off the circulation, which numbs or deadens the mouth to the pain. The other extreme, that is, permitting the lines to hang, is equally as bad. The horse, being left to stumble along as best he can, becomes careless in his action. Many drivers have the habit of nagging or jerking at the fines when they wish the horse to increase his speed. This likewise destroys the natural sensitiveness. Bad hands resulting in bad mouths are responsible for much of the undesirable action in driving horses. When we recall the extreme tenderness of the mouth, the cruel manner in which it is handled, the irrita- tion thus produced from the resulting sores, we can understand why a horse may lag behind until the parts become numbed, then begin to pull, holding the head to one side, going with the mouth open, lolling the tongue, slobbering, tossing the head and crossing the jaws ; how he loses control of his legs, so to speak, and " hitches," hobbles, forges, over- reaches, interferes, and in many other ways shows evidence of the discomfort he is suffering. To hold the lines when driving, take them in the left hand, the left line coming into the hand over 132 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster the forefinger and the right one between the middle and ring finger. The manipulation of the lines and the guiding should be done with the right hand, which also carries the whip. The arms of the driver from shoulder to elbow should hang naturally, with forearms held at right angles and the hands meet- ing in front of the body in a perfectly natural posi- tion, with thumbs uppermost. This position of the hands and lines gives the best possible control of the lines and at the same time enables him to keep a light touch on the horse's mouth. With the horse properly mouthed and the natural sensitiveness preserved, the slightest touch on either line will be pressure sufficient to guide the horse. IMPROVING THE ACTION In the training of the coach horse, action is para- mount. It is prized because the proper kind is so difficult to secure. Training horses of this class is complicated by many factors, chief of which are the conformation and the natural adaptation of the horse. Some horses are so defective in form as to prevent high action. There are others, however, seemingly of the correct conformation to produce excellent action but lacking the nervous adaptation ; and still others somewhat lacking in conformation but possessing the proper nervous development to make them excellent performers in their class. In Conformation and Action 133 the conformation of the pasterns, for example, length and obliquity usually favor lightness and elasticity of the tread, yet this is not always the case, as we find many heavy-going horses of this conformation ; in the case of a horse with short pasterns and straight shoulders, which as a rule produce heavy movements, this is not always true, as we not infrequently find straight-shouldered, short-pasterned horses that step lightly. These exceptions are undoubtedly referable to the nervous system. In the former case the horse is of a lym- phatic temperament, lacking zest in his labors for the want of tone in his nervous system, while in the latter case he is of a nervous disposition and is a willing and enduring worker in his range. With few exceptions, however, the action is refer- able to the conformation, and defects in the legs show themselves with almost unvarying regularity in their effect upon the action. Thus the horse that stands with his front feet placed wide apart has a tendency to straddle ; the knock-kneed one gener- ally dishes ; the one that toes-in winds out, while the one that toes-out winds in. The horse with his hocks wide apart and his feet close together winds his hocks outward ; the sickle-hocked one winds his feet outward; while the horse with his hocks placed too far behind has a peculiar dragging movement of the hind legs. Not only the confor- mation of the legs but that of the body also indi- 134 Training the Trotter , Coacher and Roadster cates the action and the ease with which the horse can be balanced. Thus the horse with thick withers and wide chest is Hkely to roll his feet outward in traveling. In the case of a horse with a short neck and heavy head, much difficulty is experienced in bringing out his action because of the poor relation between the head and neck. In this case the action will be short and stilted. The first requirement, therefore, for straight, undeviating action is that the horse be of proper conformation (Fig. 29) . The action of any horse can be improved by adopting the proper system of training, although but little progress can be made without good con- formation and a tendency to show action. With- out the conformation, or the inclination, it is hopeless to try to develop action to a degree that will make it worth the time and effort. On the other hand, a horse with head and neck of proper relation and well joined, that has a responsive mouth and some ambition, that has the various parts of the body in correct proportions and stands squarely on his legs, will when urged get his head up and nose in, and if restrained at the same time, by the use of the proper bit, will show superior action. In training the horse for high action there are three factors that require special attention : bitting, shoeing and conditioning. Bitting to improve action. — Now that we come to the special study of bitting to improve action, it Correct Form 135 o O 03 13 C 03 a> '>> -(J w O > O -(J CI o •i-H 03 O o m a 2 a o3 O o a; o 03 6 136 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster is important that we scrutinize the mouth, as there is much variation in shape and in the natural sensitiveness among individuals. Some horses pos- sess small tongues and rather narrow sharp bars, which are very sensitive to pressure and call for much care in training to the pressure of the bit. Because of the extreme tenderness, such a mouth is easily spoiled, whereas if properly trained to pres- sure it is likely to develop into a delightfully re- sponsive one. On the other hand, there are horses that possess thick, leathery tongues and heavy, coarse bars which are very difficult to make respon- sive, owing to their lack of sensitiveness. A close examination of the mouth, therefore, will give some idea of the method to employ in bitting to improve action. After familiarizing the coach horse with the uses of the bit by employing an easy bit much as sug- gested (p. 57), he should then be educated to the curb-bit. Instead of using common lines, as has been suggested, many prefer long ones, so they can re- main near the center of the training paddock while driving the horse around, as this gives a better view of the action and saves many steps. The curb-bit is made so as to divide the pressure between the in- side and the outside of the mouth, the chain under the lower jaw exerting pressure in such a way as to bend the head on the neck, or rather bend the nose in. By holding the horse's head up with an Curb-bits Improve the Action 137 overdraw check-rein and by holding his nose in with the curb-bit, he will when urged and restrained ^^step up" instead of stepping forward. Curb-bits are so constructed that different de- grees of leverage can be exerted, and they may be- come instruments of torture in the hands of the inexperienced (Fig. 94, 34 to 36). If properly used, Fig. 30. — Coach horse properly bitted to favor action. however, they are really easier in many mouths than less severe bits, as the leverage they bring to bear will make some horses bend that cannot be made to do so without them. As soon as the horse bends his head, very little pressure need be exerted to hold the nose in. Never pull more than the exigency of the case requires, for injury and irri- tating sores will result. To encourage high stepping, simply exert sufficient pressure on the lines to hold the head up and the nose in (Figs. 30 and 31). 138 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster To faiTiiliarize the horse with the curb-bit, place it in his mouth a few hours each day and let him stand in the stable. This gives an opportunity to become accustomed to the shape of the new bit in quiet, after which the pressure may be brought to Fig. 31. — Improving the action with a curb-bit ; head up and nose in. bear by degrees. This is very important, as many horses' mouths are spoiled the first day the curb-bit is used. The bit improves the style and action to such an extent that the driver feels encouraged, and he urges the horse against the bit and curbs him in until the mouth becomes abraded. As the parts be- Training to the Curb-bit 139 come sore the animal begins to hold his head to one side, to toss it up or carry it unsteadily, to pull on the lines and finally to go irregularly in his gait, to hitch, to interfere and the like. When the horse is made familiar with the uses of the curb-bit by using the dumb jockey or the bitting- rig as described (p. 60), if at any time he shows evidence of discomfort, loosen the side-reins and then tighten them gradually. It is important to have the bit of the correct length and properly ad- justed. If he draws his tongue up in his mouth, or puts it over the bit, it is because the bit is too low, in which case it should be raised. If he gets his head too low, it should be held in the proper po- sition by using a check-rein. Training to the uses of the curb-bit requires patience, perseverance and tact. The tendency is to hurry this part of the work too rapidly. If the mouth becomes sore, rest it by keeping the bit out until it is better; then begin over again, using extra caution. The trainer will be rewarded for his time and effort, as it is re- markable how much the knee and hock action can be increased by cultivating a responsive mouth. Shoeing to improve action. — Shoeing and weighting are very important factors in properly balancing the driving horse, but one cannot shoe or weight a horse correctly until making a critical study of his move- ments. In training the trotting horse, it is often necessary 140 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster that he be shod very early in Hfe, in which case a very light, plain shoe should be used. It is important to keep the shoes as light as possible, for every additional ounce has a detrimental influence upon the horse. The extra weight may occasionally be necessary, but it is none the less an evil because a necessary one. In shoeing, the aim should be to keep the foot elastic, yielding and natural. Fitting the shoe calls for careful study, — the old shoe will often furnish valuable information. In trimming the foot, be careful with the knife, cutting only the horn and wall. Leave the frog, the sole and the bars alone. They will care for themselves. When the foot is properly leveled and made as nearly natural as pos- sible, then fit the shoe to the foot and not the foot to the shoe. The shoe should be fitted cold. The nails should not be placed too near the edge of the hoof, nor too far back toward the quarters, thus leaving the heel free. In smoothing the clinched nails, do not rasp the outside of the hoof, as it will remove the natural protective cov- ering. The shoes should be reset at least once each month, otherwise the hoofs will grow out so as to destroy the natural form of the legs. The importance of weight on the horse's feet is often overestimated. While it is true that extra weight will often make him show more action for a time, particularly if he is well driven and in fine fettle, yet if he is called on to exert himself for Weighting to Improve the Action 141 any length of time, especially if the going is heavy or if he is drawing a load, his movements will soon become labored, he will pound the ground, very likely overreach and forge, and the character of his action will be destroyed. When extra weight is necessary to bring out the action, it should be reduced as soon as possible. This should be done gradually. Since wear lightens the shoes, it is a good plan when replacing them to have the new shoes the weight of the old ones after being reduced. If the horse continues to go well, reduce until the proper weight is reached. One has to be guided by the individual in determining the amount of weight to be put in the horse's shoes in order to bring out the best results in the way of action. In training for high action it is often of advan- tage to permit the hoofs to grow to a fair length, thus causing the horse to exert extra effort in rais- ing and extending the legs. Though fatiguing to the animal, this has a tendency to increase the action. This extra growth of the hoof, like extra weight in the shoe, is often a necessary evil when extreme action is desired. Defects in action can be corrected, in a measure, by modifying the shoe and the shape of the hoof. The horse that winds his feet outward may often have his action improved by having the inside branch of the shoe slightly the heavier, whereas the one that winds in should have the outside branch slightly 142 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster increased in thickness. In case the horse extends too much and fails to bend his knees sufficiently, it is often advantageous to have the toes of the shoes fairly light and to increase the weight gradually toward the heels ; or in case the horse folds or bends the knees too much and fails to extend the feet sufficiently, increase the weight toward the toes and lighten it toward the heels. This of course must be done so as not to interfere with the level of the foot. If the true position of the leg is interfered with, the wear will not be equally distributed and lameness is likely to follow. In shoeing and balanc- ing to improve action, however, it is most important that each animal be critically studied and the method adopted that will yield the best results. Conditioning to improve action. — To bring out the action, it is essential that the horse be in fine fettle. He must be full of nervous energy and his muscles well developed. No matter what his conformation, how thoroughly trained, or perfectly balanced, it is not possible for the horse that is run down in flesh and lacking thrift to come into the bit with that rhythmical, frictionless action that commands the respect of all. He must not only know how to do it and feel like doing it, but must also have the power. The making of a responsive mouth, the correct bal- ancing and toning up of the system, should proceed together; one should never be permitted to go ahead of the others in making high-acting horses. Faulty Action 143 Horses differ in the amount of food required to produce best results, just as they do in other ways. No rule can be made that will apply to all. One horse may keep strong and in fine condition on hay alone, while another may require ten or fifteen quarts of oats daily, in addition, to keep him right. In cases in which action contributes to the horse's value, he must also look well. This often complicates the feeding question, as an excess of hay in the ration sometimes distends the abdomen and gives the horse an unsightly appearance, particularly if he be slightly cow-bellied. To avoid this, one should feed a nu- tritious ration, rather concentrated in its nature, then give regular exercise to prevent the spirits from becoming exuberant (p. 147). INJURIOUS RESULTS OF FAULTY ACTION Not only is faulty action unsightly, but it results in many disagreeable, annoying and injurious de- fects. For convenience these may be divided into two classes: those caused by the hind and fore feet striking, variously referred to as over-reaching, forging and chcking; and those due to the feet on either side hitting, referred to as interfering, striking, cutting and brushing. Over-reaching, forging and clicking. — These defects result from any cause that prevents the horse from getting his forefeet out of the way of the hind ones 144 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster while traveling. In some cases, the horse is pre- disposed to the trouble, in which case it is often diffi- cult to overcome, while in others it is excited by a number of conditions which can be remedied, as a rule, by rational treatment. Undue shortness of body, fore pasterns disproportionately long, withers lower than the croup and low heads are frequent predisposing causes. Lack of strength, or fatigue due to hard or fast work, a hard, unyielding, unre- sponsive mouth due to bad hands, and soft footing or heavy going, such as driving on soft earth roads, particularly if the horse is used to the hard footing of the city pavement, are frequent exciting causes. To overcome the difficulty, first seek out and remove the cause if possible. In the large majority of cases, after the horse is put in good condition, the mouth well made and the feet properly shod, there will be no further difficulty. In some cases it may be necessary to employ artificial means, though this should be done only as a last resort. To remedy over-reaching and kindred faults, the principle to pursue is to hasten the action of the forefeet and to encourage a slow or dweUing movement of the hind ones, in order to allow the former to get out of the way of the latter. The action of the forefeet can often be hastened by slightly rounding off the toes of the front shoes, as this has a tendency to encour- age the horse to raise his feet quickly. On the other hand, the action of the hind feet can often be retarded Correcting Faulty Action 145 by raising the toes of the hind shoes and lowering the heels. Interfering, striking, cutting and brushing. — Like over-reaching, these defects also result from a num- ber of causes, some of which are predisposed, while others are due to exciting conditions. Defective conformation, such as narrow chests, legs and parti cu larly fetlocks deviating inward, and feet of poDr conformation are the principal predisposing causes. Improper mouthing, fatigue, poor shoeing, uneven and slippery footing, and the like, are frequent exciting causes. Of the many defects resulting from faulty action, interfering is one of the most troublesome. It is, however, one that admits of a large measure of pre- vention, and the ill effects of it can be remedied to a very considerable extent by proper bitting, shoeing or balancing, and by the use of boots. The treatment to overcome interfering and kin- dred troubles is much the same as that suggested for over-reaching. First, find the cause and remove it if possible. Then put the horse in good condition, and see that his mouth is properly bitted and his feet correctly shod. When the difficulty is due to defects in the conformation of the hoof, it may, in a measure, be overcome by shoeing. If the horse toes-out, shorten the outer part of the toe to a greater extent than the inner, or if he toes-in, trim the hoof in the opposite way. When the injury is inflicted 146 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster by the inner part of the hoof, as it often is in the hind feet, the difficulty can be remedied, in a degree, by rasping the inner side to reduce shghtly its con- vex form and by placing the inner branch of the shoe under the foot as far as possible without running too much risk of bruising the sole. Relief is often gained by shortening the inside of the hoof more than the outside, in which case the inner branch of the shoe is thickened to keep the foot level. The inner part of the shoe should be well rounded so that there will be as little danger as possible of inflicting injury. In other cases, relief is gained by shoeing with a three-quarter shoe — one coming about halfway round on the inside and not covering the surface of the inner quarter. Shoeing to remedy interfering requires careful study of each individual. In the training of young horses for speed or high action, boots are strongly recommended to prevent injury, should the animal interfere. It is of very common occurrence for youngsters to interfere until they become familiar with the bit, after which no difficulty is experienced. Furthermore, the colt may become frightened at any time, lose his stride, strike himself, and inflict serious injury. From the very beginning, therefore, boots should be used as a safeguard and as a preventive against possible injuries (Fig. 27). \ Exercise the Horse Regularly 147 EXERCISE CONTRIBUTES TO ACTION Faulty action is often due to irregular or insuffi- cient exercise. The periods of enforced idleness occasioned by lack of business engagements of the master or by inclement weather, are often followed by long drives and hours of over-exertion. This is accompanied by many faulty movements, such as irregular and indirect action, hitching and hobbling, interfering and over-reaching, and the like. The matter is still further complicated by the owner, who, desiring to keep his horse in presentable condi- tion, often overfeeds during the enforced idleness. Irregular work weakens the constitution, and the horse thus exercised generally has but a brief career. Regular and judicious exercise stimulates the appe- tite, promotes digestion, encourages assimilation and helps the system to remove material for which it has no further need and which, if allowed to remain, would prove injurious. Such exercise improves the muscular tone and keeps the animal in good spirits, thereby enabhng him to control his nervous and muscular action. The amount of work necessary to keep the animal in condition will depend on the individual. This brings us to a discussion of the rather common practice of horse owners in large cities turning their horses out for a part of the year. There is much 148 Training the Trotter, Coacher and Roadster difference of opinion as to the advantages of such practice, particularly if the horse is in good condi- tion and going sound. Some one has said that ''two let-ups are as bad as a break-down, " and there seems to be considerable truth in the statement. To throw a horse into complete or comparative idle- ness for any length of time causes his tendons to lose strength, his muscular system to lose tone and his nervous system to lose power of application. True, such a horse may be worked back into condi- tion, but it will take months to restore muscular tone and nervous energy. As a rule, the horse is taken up and put to work at once, with the result that he suffers from muscular soreness and may develop faulty action very difficult to remedy. With the horse that is sound and in good condition, the better plan is to provide regular exercise. On the other hand, if the horse . is run down, slightly lame, or otherwise out of condition, compara- tive idleness is almost essential. Such animals are already in poor condition, and there is nothing better than a good blue-grass pasture, well watered and well shaded, especially in the early summer before flies become troublesome. Such pastures provide natural conditions, as the horse in feeding will take some exercise, the morning dew will improve the physical condition of his feet, and pasture consti- tutes the best of food. If convenient, he should be fed grain in addition^ as this aids in regaining Exercise Contributes to Action 149 muscular tone and nervous energy. After the horse has regained his strength, he should be worked gradually into condition again. The mistake is often made of putting the animal to work too quickly, thus offsetting the good effect of the rest. CHAPTER V TRAINING THE SADDLE HORSE The saddle-bred colt should receive much the same training as that suggested for the foal (p. 26). The saddle work, however, should not begin until the colt is at least two years of age, and in most cases it is preferable not to begin the real training until three years old. The reason for this delay is apparent, as the saddle horse is obliged to bear the weight of the rider and, therefore, should be well matured to avoid straining the muscles of the back and the tendons and ligaments of the legs. If the saddle- bred colt seems good enough to make a show horse, and is stout and rugged, the training may begin early, but extra care must be employed to prevent injury. When the colt is sufficiently mature to begin the saddle work, he should be taught the uses of the bit much as suggested in bitting the work horse and the coach horse (pp. 56 and 134). As with high-acting horses this is a very important part of the saddle horse's training, and the work should be thoroughly accomplished before mounting. 150 m' Riding Bridle and Saddle 151 EQUIPMENT FOR TRAINING A SADDLE HORSE The riding bridle. — After teaching the saddle horse the uses of the bit with a common bridle, the riding-bridle should be employed. This bridle is similar to the common bridle except the bit and reins. The bit is similar to a curb-bit with provi- sion for the attachment of two sets of reins, one set to the snaffle, the other to the curb (Fig. 94, 31 to 33). Some riders prefer two bridles, one provided with a snaffle, and the other with a curb-bit. It is not considered good practice to use the curb without the snaffle, as the refractory horse may become diffi- cult to control by the former. Before attempting to mount, the horse should be made familiar with the bits, much as suggested in the case of the curb-bit (p. 138). If the horse has a tendency to throw the head upward, the martingale should be used, as the rider is liable to injury. The saddle. — There are many makes of saddles, some devised especially for men (Fig. 32, 1 and 2) and others for women (Fig. 32, 3 and 4). A rather light and flexible saddle is preferable to a very heavy and stiff one. The pommel — upward projection in front — and the cantle — upward projection be- hind — should not extend too high, especially for the horse in training. Care should be exercised to see that the saddle fits properly and that the weight is equally distributed. The stirrups and stirrup- 152 Training the Saddle Horse straps should receive much attention. Stirrups are made in many forms (Fig. 33). Whatever the form Fig. 32. — Types of saddles. 1 and 2 for men, 3 and 4 for women. chosen, they should be of light, neat construction, and so arranged as to admit the feet easily. Some Saddle Stirrups 153 riders prefer the safety stirrups, so that in case of accident there will be no danger in getting the feet fast, as the safety stirrups are provided with latches which spring open when the pressure is re- moved, thus freeing the feet (Fig. 33, 3). The stirrup-straps should be prop- erly adjusted. If too short, the legs of the rider will be held in a cramped and tiresome posi- tion, and if too long, the rider cannot properly balance himself. The saddle-girth should be ar- ranged moder- ately tight so as Fig. 33. — Types of saddle stirrups. /.Military; fn r>rp^f^r.f +V.o ^' ^''''^^ leather; 3, Safety; 4, Ox-bow; 5, to prevent tne siipper stirrup. saddle from turning. There is much difference of opinion as to the advisability of using a saddle-blanket, some rec- 154 Training the Saddle Horse ommending its use, while others state that with a properly fitted saddle it is useless. Whip and spurs. — These are important articles in the training of a saddle horse. They may be used as aids in bringing out the gaits or as stimulants; hence, it is important to teach their uses very early in the training period. In teaching the horse to obey the whip, either as an aid or a stimulant, one should be careful to use it in such a way that the horse will not be- come unsteady in the event of his rider carrying anything in his hand (p. 19). In teaching the horse to obey the spurs, care must be exercised to avoid making him regard them as instruments of torture. Many spurs are so constructed as to injure the horse if improperly used (Fig. 34, 2). For use in training the saddle horse, a Ught, mild spur is recommended (Fig. 34, 1). Gradually the horse should be made familiar with the uses of the spurs, at first by pressure of the flat of the foot or heel, then by that of the spurs without a Fig. 34. — Types of spurs. 1, Racing; 3, pa- .tent ; 3, English ; 4> Plain ; 3, Army spur. Mounting the Horse 155 rowel, or with a blunted rowel, and lastly by the pressure of the common spurs. The horse should be made so thoroughly obedient to them that when riding him we may dispense with their use, the con- tact of the heel being sufficient to produce the desired results. MOUNTING HORSE FOR FIRST TIME After the saddle horse has been taught the uses of the bit, he should be educated to stand while being mounted. This is an important part of the saddle horse's training, for it is very provoking to have a horse continually stepping about or starting while one is mounting. Many horses otherwise well trained possess this aggravating habit. After driving the horse about the training pad- dock, as suggested in teaching the commands (p. 63), take him to his stall and carefully place the saddle on his back, first permitting him to feel and smell it, if he likes. Draw the girth moderately tight and leave him in the stall until he becomes familiar with the object on his back. If unsteady, he should be caressed. Then cautiously remove the saddle and carefully replace as before. Repeat until he exhibits no uneasiness on being saddled. Next take the horse into the training paddock, place across the saddle a half-filled sack of sand or earth, secure firmly and drive him about the inclo- 156 Training the Saddle Horse sure until he becomes steady. We may now remove the sack, and if the horse has exhibited any unsteadi- ness, apply the noose- or rope-twitch (p. 197). Let an assistant hold the horse and correct any uneasiness by using the twitch while the animal is being mounted. Quietly mount and dismount several times, rewarding or punishing the horse according to his conduct. The assistant may lead the horse about the inclosure to familiarize him, while in motion, with the weight on his back. Now the rider should take a short and firm hold on the reins, so as to be able to meet any emergency, while the assistant removes the twitch. Ride the horse first about the inclosure, and then in the field, until he becomes perfectly familiar with the extra weight and will obey the voice and reins. Some horsemen mount for the first time by grad- ually educating the horse to bear the weight of a man's body. They begin by handUng and caress- ing the animal, then catching hold around the neck well back toward the withers, and by degrees familiar- izing him with the weight by hanging on to the back part of the neck. After he learns to bear weight at the withers, pass to the back, and in a like manner educate him to bear weight, first by simply leaning on him, gradually increasing the weight, and lastly by taking a position astride. The horse is frequently caressed to assure him that he is doing well. This method works well with the gentle horse. In case Controlling Movements with the Legs 157 the horse is difficult to mount, more strenuous methods must be adopted (p. 274). To mount the trained horse, grasp the reins in the left hand and catch hold of the mane just in front of the withers. With the right hand, first aid the left foot into the stirrup, then catch hold of the pommel. Now by a springing leap pull yourself up and stand in the left stirrup, then place the right leg over the saddle and into the right stirrup. Assume a com- fortable position, with the arms hanging naturally, the left one, which supports the reins, being held about even with the top of the pommel (for method of holding the reins see page 131). The horse should now be educated to the uses of the spurs and the rider's legs in guiding and control- ling. Closing the knees without pressure by the lower parts of the legs tends to steady the horse while in action. Placing the lower part of the legs slightly to the rear, and closing them equally, thus causing slight pressure on either side, prepares the horse to move, or if already in action, has a tendency to encourage him to keep up to the bit. Closing the lower legs with considerable pressure behind the girth stimu- lates the horse to move forward. Placing the right leg to the rear and closing with considerable pressure stimulates the horse to move his hind quarters to the left, while a corresponding action with the left leg stimulates the horse to move his hind quarters to the right. Each of these movements should be 158 Training the Saddle Horse taken up separately and taught the horse until he will obey without the aid of the voice, rein or whip. It is important that the saddle horse be taught to guide to the right and left when you apply pressure with the knees and incline the body in the desired direction. This is accomplished most efficiently by guiding on the neck. To do this, first cross the snaffle reins under the lower jaw ; now as you pull on the left snaffle ring, slight pressure is brought to bear on the right side of the neck, which induces the animal to guide to the left; simultaneously clamp his body with your knees and incline your body to the left. Repeat until the horse will guide to the left when you clamp the knees and incline to the left. Next teach the animal to guide to the right by revers- ing the process. When thoroughly familiar with the method, teach him to guide to the right and left in rapid succession as you incline either to the right or left. GAITS OF THE SADDLE HORSE DESCRIBED Before attempting to teach the various gaits, we should have a clear conception of each and know exactly what movements the horse must make in performing the same. The gaits of the saddle horse are much confused in the popular mind because a few are designated by several terms. There are three natural gaits, — the walk, trot, and gallop, — and several artificial ones, being more or less varia- How a Horse Walks 159 tions of the natural gaits, such as the running walk, fox trot, slow pace, rack and the like. The walk. — This may be considered the founda- tion of all saddle gaits. It is a gait of four flat beats, each foot being planted in regular order. If the right forefoot comes first to the ground, the left hind foot Fig. 35. — The walk. is next planted ; then the left forefoot and finally the right hind foot. The horse has never less than two, and never more than three feet bearing weight on the ground at the same time. The weight is borne first by the two forefeet and right hind foot ; then by the right forefoot and left hind foot ; then by the two hind feet and right forefoot; and lastly by the 160 Training the Saddle Horse left forefoot and right hind foot (Fig. 35). When the movement is quickened the horse does not at once change his gait, but extends his strides and makes them more uniform, until further extension becomes difficult, when he will break into a trot. The trot. — In the common trot the footfalls mark two sharp beats, and the horse moves from one pair of diagonally disposed legs to the other pair. In the common and long trot there is a short interval between each step when all four feet are free from the ground. During the short trot, however, one pair of diagonal legs is on the ground all the time. The trot depends simply upon the united action of a foreleg and a diagonal hind leg, hence the weight is borne by the diagonally disposed legs alternately (Fig. 36) . The trot is not as fast a gait as some others, but it is one in which the average horse is capable of traveling farther in a day's journey with less fatigue than any other, on account of the diagonal pairs of legs being used as weight bearers and propellers. This diagonal movement makes the gait a rough one for saddle work. If the movement is hurried, the horse extends himself until further extension becomes difficult, when he will break into a gallop or canter. The canter. — In common usage there are three words describing this gait, according to its speed — the canter, the gallop or lope, and the run. When the horse is going fast it is called a run; when going at a moderate speed it is called a gallop or lope, and How a Horse Canters 161 when he is going slow the gait is called a canter. There are two other terms sometimes used in this connection, the hand-gallop and the three-footed canter. The former comes between the canter and the gallop, but is more nearly like the canter, while the latter is really a canter in front and a rack behind. Fig. 36. — The trot. In other words, it is a mixed gait and is considered undesirable. The gallop and the run are rough to ride, while the hand-canter and the canter are very pleasant. The true canter is a gait of three beats. If the weight is received upon the left hind foot, it next falls upon the right hind foot and left forefoot, and then M 162 Training the Saddle Horse upon the right forefoot. The horse works on his haunches, with his legs well under him; he bounds up in front gracefully and drops to the ground lightly, sustaining his weight on his hind legs and haunches in such a manner as to prove delightful riding. The slower the gait, so long as performed with animation Fig. 37. — ■ The canter. and exactness, the better, about five miles an hour being the most desirable (Fig. 37). When the horse goes into the air from his left fore- leg, followed by the other legs in the regular order of succession, he is said to be leading with the near or left foreleg and to be galloping left ; when he goes into the air from his right foreleg he is said to be How a Horse Racks 163 leading with his off or right foreleg and to be gallop- ing right. The rack. — Formerly this gait was designated by the term '^ single foot." It was so named because each foot falls upon the ground separately, thus mak- ing it a four-beat gait. The rack and the single- FiG. 38. — The rack. foot, therefore, are terms designating the same gait. The term ''rack" has come into more common use because of action taken by the American Saddle Horse Breeders' Association. While the true rack is a gait of four beats, it seems to be difficult for some horses to perform, and they amble or pace instead. These gaits, though per- 164 Training the Saddle Horse formed by the alternate moving of the pair of legs on either side, hence often called ''side wheelers/^ and when true consisting of two beats only, are never- theless closely associated with the rack; in fact the Fig. 39. The running walk. rack seems to be a very fast amble, in which the feet follow each other in very rapid succession, thus break- ing up the two beat side wheeled motion (Fig. 38). The running walk. — The name fittingly describes the gait. It is simply an accelerated walk, the foot- falls following each other in rapid succession. It is a four beat gait. The running walk is an easier gait than the walk, and is very much faster, though slower than the rack. It is spoken of as a slow gait (Fig. 39) . The Slow Gaits 165 The fox trot. — This gait is simply a slow, rather loosely jointed trot. Some one has fittingly described it as a ''dog trot." The action is somewhat similar to the trot described above except that it is much Fig. 40. — Fox-trot. slower, and the beats are often separated. This is also called a slow gait (Fig. 40). The slow pace. — While similar to the pace of the harness horse, this gait differs in that both feet on the same side of the body do not strike the ground at the same time. There is just enough break in the impact to introduce a short interval, thus making it a four beat gait similar in this respect to the running walk and fox trot. It is a slow gait. 166 Training the Saddle Horse The jump. — While not a gait, properly speaking, hunters are required to perform the jump, and it is here described. Most horses take the hurdles at the gallop or run by shortening the steps and advancing ...v^**"^ ▲ ^' ^Itt fi **y7 ,^^1 ^^^^^^^^^B^t ' ~i^KiB!^ ^i ^^E^ wtk j85 ^^^^^^^Et ^ Ei^^^^^^H ^5 ^^l^,.,,..^^^*^ ^^^^^^M ^Hk ^Vf^ ''^^^^pHPImII ■H^^^R^^ ■ " " Ji m/M Rl^ ' mk ■i ■1.^ Fig. 41. — The jump. with both hind feet nearly simultaneously until sufficiently near to take off. They bring the hind feet well under the center of gravity, and instantly the forequarters are raised, and this action is imme- diately followed by an energetic propulsion of the Saddle Horses Classified 167 hind legs sufficient to lift the weight and carry the long body of the horse entirely over the hurdles. As soon as the obstacle is passed, the forelegs sepa- rate, so as not to make contact with the earth at the same time. Thus the forefeet come in contact with the earth in rapid succession, and they are imme- diately followed by the hind feet landing separately, in such a manner as to deaden the shock. All the feet are now free to gallop off as before the leap (Fig. 41). CLASSES OF SADDLE HORSES There are three classes of saddle horses : the walk- ing horse ; the walk, trot and canter horse ; and the five-gaited saddle horse, to which may be added two others, the hunter and the high-school horse. The walking horse is one well trained at the running walk gait. This is the business horse, and is in demand on ranches, plantations, large farms, and the like. The walk, trot, and canter horse is an animal well trained in the three gaits and is in demand wherever saddle horses are used. The gaited saddle horse is required to go five gaits. He must be able to walk, trot, rack, and canter, and for the fifth gait he may choose any one of the three slow gaits, the running walk, fox trot, or slow pace. This horse is in demand for pleasure and show purposes. The hunter is usually able to go most of the saddle gaits, and in addition is well trained at the jump, while 168 Training the Saddle Horse the high-school horse, in addition to going all the saddle gaits, is well trained in many fancy steps. From time to time there is still another class of saddle horses for which there is much demand, and is for use in the army. These horses, in addition to doing the ordinary saddle gaits, must be trained to stand gun-fire, and some of them, more particularly the scouting horses, to lie down when commanded. TRAINING TO THE GAITS Now that the horse is thoroughly familiar with the use of the bit, — both snaffle and curb, — with whip and spurs, and with the rider's legs in aiding and control- ling the movements, and that we have a clear under- standing of the movements of the various gaits, we are prepared to teach the horse how to perform the gaits. Let no one attempt to teach the gaits until all of these requirements, on the part of both rider and horse, have been met, for failure will surely result, since the rider cannot teach that which he does not understand, and the horse cannot learn until means of communication have been established between the rider and his mount. The walk. — Training to a true or collected walk is a very important part of the saddle horse's educa- tion, although it is perhaps the most neglected of all gaits. To train the horse to walk, take the snaffle rein in hand in such a manner as just to feel the ani- Training to Walk 169 mal's mouth, and allow the hand to be slightly influ- enced by the movements of his head. Apply the unspurred heel in such a way as to induce the horse to increase the length of his stride, without breaking into a jog. If he shows any inclination to break, immediately steady him by a slight increase of the pressure on the bit, and by the voice. After a few breaks, the rider can tell when the horse is on the verge of breaking, and should hold himself in readi- ness to gently prevent him from doing so. It is important to remember, in teaching the horse to walk fast, that he must be allowed the freedom of his head, and that the reins must not be held in a firm hand. If the. reins are held firmly, it causes him to shorten his steps and to go into the air instead of moving rapidly forward. As the lesson progresses, the blunt spurs may be applied to stimulate the horse to greater effort. It is not advisable to continue the walking lesson. After going a couple of miles, carrying the horse well up to his limit at the flat-footed walk, he may be quietly urged into a trot for a quarter of a mile, mak- ing him do his best as to style and action all of the way. Steady down to the walk, and continue as be- fore. To prevent the horse from acquiring a slov- enly or uneven gait, always rnake him do his best at each gait. To perfect the horse at the flat-footed walk may require months, but we should keep at the task, always urging him to the mark. 170 Training the Saddle Horse The trot. — In teaching the horse to trot, take him on the snaffle reins and hold tolerably firm on the bit. Gently urge him into a slow, collected trot, and as he prepares to start begin to post — that is, rise in the saddle. As a rule, the saddle-bred horse will go to trotting the instant you post in the saddle, if urged at the same time. If the horse should make a mistake and start on a ^^ jiggle," bring him to a walk and try again. As you give him the word this time, reach forward, and with the right hand grasp him by the mane, well up on the neck. It seems instinct for the young horse to trot when you do this. Sometimes if you bear a little weight and rather shove his head down, the green horse will go off on the trot. With a difficult horse some excellent horsemen recommend reaching forward and taking hold of one ear. They state that it is a very rare case where this will not work. After the horse knows what you want him to do, then work back to his neck, and eventually by just touching his neck in front of the saddle he will go on the trot. It should be said, however, that the ear method is condemned by many saddle-horse trainers. To develop style and action urge the horse for- ward by such gentle means as a light tapping with the whip ; by the judicious application of the spurs and by the voice; but the rider must not allow the animal to pull on the bit. The head must be retained in the correct position by a gentle see-saw action Leading with a Foreleg 171 with the reins. In the latter stages of the training, the curb-rein may be brought into play to improve the style and increase the action. Because of the extra exertion, the trotting lesson should always be of short duration, and the horse kept well within his strength. The horse should be taught to lead with either foreleg at the discretion of the rider. To teach the animal to lead with the right foreleg, gently pull his head to the right, inclining the body some- what to the right and at the same time cautiously apply the right spur just behind the girth, as the prick there causes the animal to move his right foreleg. Some horsemen gently strike the right elbow with the toe of their boot, and at the same time tap the horse as far back on the left quarter as possible with the whip. This causes the horse to bring the left hind leg forward, and as the right front leg moves in unison the desired action is ob- tained. To teach the horse to lead with the left front leg, just reverse the procedure. This training should be given in the paddock, and should be re- peated until the rider can control the leading leg at a given signal. The canter. — With the horse at the walk, take him on the curb-rein, pull him together until his legs are under him, lean slightly to the front and urge him forward by the gentle apphcation of the spurs, restraining him at the same time with the curb- 172 Training the Saddle Horse bit. As the horse starts, salute him with the right hand; if he fails to notice this, snap the fingers to attract his attention. This is the signal to be used in later life when you wish him to canter. After cantering a quarter mile steady him down to the walk, and then repeat until the horse understands what he is expected to do. Speed is not sought at the canter, simply stylish and comfortable action. This must be attained by induc- ing the horse to bring his hind legs well under the body, and at the same time by keeping his head in the proper position by slight pressure on the curb-bit. Teach the horse to lead with either foreleg as sug- gested in training to trot. To facilitate this, when teaching to lead with the right foreleg circle to the right, and when teaching to lead with the left fore- leg circle to the left. Teach him to lead with al- ternate legs by riding him in the outline of the figure 8. First use a large figure, but gradually de- crease it until it is as small as possible. The horse will thus learn to change his leading leg in accordance with the direction in which he is required to circle. The running walk. — With the horse at the walk, take him lightly on the curb reins, urge him just out of the walk by a gentle touch of .the spurs and as he starts reach over and touch him on the withers. As he breaks from the walk hold him steady and do not allow him to go into a trot or rack, or to fall back into a walk. This is a very delightful gait Training to the Slow Gaits 173 to ride and one in which the horse keeps time to his steps by the nodding of his head, hence the term ^^nodder" which is sometimes apphed to horses of this class. Fox trot. — With the horse at the walk, take him on the snaffle rein and urge him into a slow ''dog trot" or ''shog." As with the running walk, do not let him forge ahead into a trot or rack or slow down to a walk, but when he strikes the desired gait hold him steady. After going a short distance slow down and then repeat. Next practice urging the horse, alternately, from the walk to the running walk and from the walk to the fox trot. Repeat un- til the horse will obey the signals without the slight- est confusion. This may take months, but it is essen- tial to a well-trained saddle horse. The slow pace. — This gait is taught in much the same manner as the fox trot, some horses taking naturally to one, some to the other, depending on whether they have a natural inclination to trot or pace. Take the horse mildly on the curb-rein and urge him just out of the walk by pressure on the legs and a slight side to side shuffle of the reins just sufficient to work on the bit. When the horse takes the gait hold him steady. Slow down to a walk and then repeat. Later alternate with the running walk and fox trot. The rack. — In teaching this gait, choose a road with rather hard, smooth surface. The rack is a rather 174 Training the Saddle Horse difficult gait on the horse. If the road is soft, he fatigues rapidly, while if rough the gait is difficult to perform. With the horse at one of the slow gaits, preferably the slow pace, take him on the curb-rein and urge him forward by gripping the knees so that he will feel the clasp, and give him the spurs. A horse is taught to rack by spurring him forward and curbing him back. Should he start to trot, some- times a side to side shake of the reins just sufficient to work on the bit will encourage the green horse to start off on a rack. Sit firm in the saddle and urge the horse up against the curb. Do not allow him to slow down into a pace ; if he falters, touch him with the spurs and lift him gently on the bit to steady him. After racking a short distance steady down to the walk and repeat. Continue the process until he will rack the moment you draw up on the curb and apply the pressure with the knees. Each of the saddle gaits should now be repeated un- til the horse will take any one at the given signal. This may require much time and patient effort, but such is essential to the saddle horse's education. The jump. — Some horses are born jumpers and require practically no training, but jump efficiently at the first attempt, while others appear to have no idea of jumping whatever. While opinion is divided as to the proper age to begin training the hunter, many excellent horsemen think the jumping ex- ercise cannot begin too early if properly conducted. Training to Jump 175 This training may well begin during colthood while he is running with the dam by arranging a couple of fences, such as the dam can easily step over, say eighteen inches or two feet high, and so situated that both mare and foal must pass over them when leaving the stable and when returning. To avoid accident these fences should be made of movable boards placed one upon the other, thus avoiding cracks, and the top should be padded with burlap. As soon as the foal learns to jump easily, the boards may be removed for a month and later replaced. Exercise of a similar nature should be provided from time to time, gradually increasing the height of the hurdles up to say three feet by the time the horse is three years old. It is not considered safe to go beyond this height, as it is very easy to sprain the young horse or to cause the development of bony growths such as curbs, splints and the like. At three years of age, the hunter may be trained to the uses of the bit much as suggested for the sad- dle horse (p. 150). Now with the long lines drive the horse about an inclosure similar to the small track described for the trotter (p. Ill), but provided with high, well-padded fences on either side, and with two hurdles on one stretch and one on the other. For the first two rounds place the bars on the ground and if the horse has been trained as suggested, he will jump them. This serves to fix the idea as to what he is supposed to do. When the 176 Training the Saddle Horse horse goes steadily around at the canter, arrange the hurdles about one foot high, then lead him toward one of them and when near quietly encourage him to jump. If he refuses, lead him back and punish him as he moves away from the hurdles, then turn and try again, never punishing as he approaches the object, as this distracts his attention and he will refuse again. When he jumps, caress him. During the second lesson approach the hurdles from the opposite direction, and alternate from day to day. Do not hurry the horse, and do not run risks by asking him to jump when the earth is wet and slippery, or when there is the slightest dan- ger. Continue this exercise until the horse is four years old, when he may be mounted and ridden about the farm. At first, to inspire confidence, have him jump easy objects. If you do not overdo the work, he will soon acquire courage and carry you wherever you may wish to go. Training to stand. — The saddle horse should be taught to stand whenever the reins are thrown over his head. This is done by fastening a bag to the reins in such a way that when the horse steps forward he steps on the bag, and gives him- self a jerk at the bit. Very soon he learns that when the reins are over his head and the bag on the ground, he is to stand. After a while the bag may be removed, and the horse will stand simply by throwing the reins over his head and on the ground. Training to Stand Gun Fire 111 If he should acquire the habit of stepping forward, at- tach the bag for a time. TRAINING HORSES FOR THE ARMY In preparing horses for use in the army, whether for cavalry, scouting or artillery work, one of the first lessons should be to train the animal to stand gun-fire. Some horses are so nervous that they seem unable to become reconciled to such noise, and if the animal is of this class, it is of advantage to know it at once, since further training is useless. There are two methods of training horses to stand gun-fire, the Rarey and the Galvayne. In the Rarey method (p. 212) the horse is laid on the ground while firecrackers are shot off over his body, first at some distance, but gradually approaching. After he becomes reconciled to the noise, he is let up and the use of the crackers continued; then a revolver is used, and lastly the gun. If at any time the horse becomes unsteady, he is laid down again and the en- tire process repeated until he becomes so familiar with the gun that he will stand while it is being fired from his back. In the Galvayne method (p. 219) the head and tail are tied together so that the horse goes round and round until the excitement passes away. Only a few crackers are used at first, and as soon as the horse becomes familiar with the noise his head is freed, and the noise continued as N 178 Training the Saddle Horse in the Rarey method. If at any time the horse be- comes unsteady, his head and tail are tied together again and a new start is made. This is continued until he becomes perfectly familiar with the firing of guns. The cavalry horse. — The work of the army is often carried out under rough conditions, and it is important that the cavalry horse be trained at the jump as well as at the walk, trot and canter. He should be so thoroughly educated that the rider can control the horse's movements by the legs and voice in case both hands should be engaged in operat- ing the guns. As soon as the horse will perform the movements alone, he should be placed in the ranks and taught to act in unison with the other mounts. The scouting horse. — In addition to the training suggested for the cavalry horse, the scout's mount should be taught to lie down at the command of the rider and permit him to fire over his reclining body. Some horses are very easily taught to lie down. This is accomplished by the Rarey method (p. 212), or by some modification of it. The horse is laid down gently as described, and while down is caressed. Then he is let up and the process re- peated; this time he is commanded to ^^lie down" or tapped on the.back of the front legs with the whip, and an instant later his feet are drawn up by the ropes and he goes down again. Caress him as be- fore. The process is repeated until the horse will Picketing the Army Horse 179 lie down when commanded to do so. This may require tact and patience. If the horse seems rather obstinate, give him a few hard falls, but ca- ress him when down. Picketing. — There are two methods of picket- ing army horses, one by the low rope, lying on the ground and secured by pegs, the other by the high rope. In the former method the animals are secured to the ground-rope by one or both heels, preferably both, while in the latter method the rope is arranged taut, nearly breast high, and does away with the necessity for heel-ropes, which have a tendency to chafe the pasterns, even though soft, pliable hobbles are used. The heels, in consequence, become sore, and when on the march it is very difficult to keep the abrasions clean so as to give them an oppor- tunity to heal (p. 375). Both methods are exten- sively used. TRAINING SADDLE HORSES FOR SPECIAL WORK Polo game. — In the making of a polo pony it is very important that he possess a good temper and be well trained in the uses of the bit, and to the walk, trot and canter. He should be taught these gaits as thoroughly as the cavalry horse, for the rider's hands are constantly engaged in manipulating the polo stick. It is essential that the polo pony be taught to lead (p. 171) with either foreleg at a given sig- 180 Training the Saddle Horse nal from the rider, and it is even more important that he be taught to stop instantly, no matter how fast the gait. As we have seen, much exercise in the outHne of the figure 8 is beneficial in teaching the horse to lead with either foreleg. The pony must stop with his head up rather than down, and to do this properly he should be taught to stop from his hind legs. When the stopping is done with the shoulders, the head is likely to be lowered, which is objectionable. The next step is to familiarize the pony with the polo stick. This can be facihtated by some such methods as suggested in poling (p. 69). When the pony shows no fear, the rider may take the stick in hand and with the animal at the walk, slowly, go through much the same motions as in playing the game. Gradually increase the movements of the stick, first in one hand and then in the other. Much care should be exercised never to hit the pony with the stick during this familiarizing work. When the pony is sufficiently famiUar with the stick to permit all the strokes at the walk, continue the practice at the trot, and lastly at the canter. Next take a soft india rubber ball and gently knock about until the pony is used to it. If perchance such a ball should strike the animal it will not injure or frighten him. In training the pony to follow the ball it is best to have several balls, and when the rider misses one he may take another. It discour- Training the High-school Gaits 181 ages the pony to be constantly returning after missed balls. Now that the pony will follow the ball, you are ready to teach him to mix with other polo ponies. To do this use a pony that knows the game and begin at the walk. The green pony is ridden alongside the trained pony, with the head turned away so that the shoulder will be turned in toward him. The green pony should be encouraged to brush up against the other by pressure from the rider's outside leg (p. 157). This training must be continued on both sides. When the pony understands it at the walk, it must be repeated at the trot and at the canter. Next procure two well-trained ponies and accustom the green pony to being squeezed and bumped, at first gently, but increasing the roughness from day to day. The green pony should be made familiar with all of the movements likely to be met before he enters the practice game. High-school gaits. — The high-school horse is re- quired to do a great variety of fancy movements, such as the Spanish walk, the Spanish trot and simi- lar gaits. To illustrate the method of teaching such movements, we will consider the Spanish walk. This walk is characterized by the peculiar manner in which the forelegs are extended during the step. The foreleg is raised without bending the knee and extended straight out in front of the body as nearly parallel with the ground as possible, and held there 182 Training the Saddle Horse for a brief moment until the body is brought forward, when it is lowered without bending the knee. Then the other foreleg is raised similarly. In teaching the Spanish walk, the first lessen is to train the horse to extend his foreleg to the front. To do this place the animal with his right side toward a wall, then standing in front and facing him, grasp the reins under the chin with the left hand, slightly raise the head and turn it toward the right side so as to relieve the weight on the left foreleg. Tap the horse gently on the cannon or forearm of the left foreleg to induce him to raise it and extend it to the front. Caress him for doing as you wish. Encourage him to extend it as far as possible. When he understands that tapping the left foreleg means to extend it to the front, in a similar way teach him to extend the right foreleg. Having taught the horse to extend either foreleg at the tap of the whip, let us try the Spanish walk. Take your position in front as before and have him extend the left foreleg, bring him forward by the reins so that he will take a step. While he is doing this you must prevent him from bending the leg at the knee by applying the whip. Reward him for obeying and repeat the process with the other front leg. By diminishing the interval between the steps and by inducing him to raise his forelegs higher we arrive at the Spanish walk. It will take much prac- tice standing in front and aiding the horse by alter- Training Circus Tricks 183 nately moving the head from right to left, and occa- sionally tapping the legs to encourage extension, in order to bring out this walk. Later you may mount the horse and by aiding with rein and whip perfect the gait. The Spanish trot is similar to the Spanish walk except that the movements are quickened and when the gait is perfected, there is a brief moment between each step when all four feet are off the ground, which gives the horse a very spectacular appearance. Similar methods are employed in teaching each of the high-school movements and gaits. Circus tricks. — Teaching a horse circus tricks is not a difficult task. The most essential things are tact, patience and self-control on the part of the horseman. The teaching of tricks is merely the forming of what may be called unusual habits, and establishing signals to excite the horse to execute them. The circus horse is required to do a great variety of these tricks, and to illustrate the method of training we will take a case, as teaching the horse to bow and shake his head, or to say ^'yes" and ^^no," as the circus man puts it. In teaching the horse to bow or say '^yes, " stand a little to one side and in front of him, and with a pin prick him slightly on the breast. The horse will think the slight pain was caused by a fly and will put his head down to frighten it away. When he makes the move toward his breast with his head, caress 184 Training the Saddle Horse him. Repeat and caress, giving the command ^^bow" or ''yes" just as you prick him. Soon he will go through the motion at the command alone, in anticipation of the caress. To teach the horse to shake his head or say ''no, " stand on the left side and with a pin prick him lightly on the crest above the shoulder. As before he will think this a fly, and shake his head to remove it. The moment he shakes his head caress him. Repeat and caress, giving the command "no" just as you prick him. Soon he will shake his head at the command as before, in anticipation of the caress. To iltustrate another method, let us consider the case of teaching the horse to stand erect on his hind legs. To teach this trick, the surcingle and back band, a common bridle, and the pulley bridle (p. 193) should be used. Place the pulley bridle under the common bridle, and rein the horse up as high as con- venient. Take a position in front of the animal, hold the pulley bridle lead rope in the left hand and the whip in the right. Gently jerk with the lead rope and flick the whip in front of the horse. Repeat until he makes an effort to raise his front feet from the ground and then caress him. If he refuses to rise, rein his head a little higher and continue as before. As this trick is very hard on the muscles of the animal's back, it should not be continued for too long a time. With a little patient effort the animal can be taught to stand erect at the command "up." Training Saddle Horses for Special Work 185 If he is a teachable one, he can be encouraged to step forward at the command ^'come here" or ^'get up." Should he attempt to drop on his front feet before commanded to do so, touch him gently under the chin with the whip. Not all horses can be taught this trick as the muscles of the back are too weak to permit the animals to stand erect. CHAPTER VI TRAINING WILD AND SUBDUING VICIOUS HORSES The training of stubborn, refractory and wild horses, or the subduing of vicious horses often calls for more strenuous methods than have hitherto been suggested. Before deciding upon the method to be employed, one should make a careful study of the horse to determine, if possible, the cause of his obstinacy. One source of indifference is improper training while young. The colt has probably had his nerves deadened by severe bits or some similar treatment. Accidents are a second source of indif- ference. The horse may have been well trained and under excellent control, but in an accident may have become frightened and perhaps injured, thus leaving a bad impression upon his mind, and under similar circumstances he becomes unmanageable. In such cases, absolute subjection by either the Rarey or Galvayne method will serve to bring the horse back under control, as he learns that man is his su- perior, and that if he does as commanded no injury is to come to him. 186 Nervous Disposition 187 TEMPERAMENT IN THE HORSE Perhaps the greater number of wild, refractory and vicious horses owe their faults to inequalities of temper. It is therefore of much importance that the temperaments be studied carefully. Horses may be divided into four general classes according to their temper: teachable, nervous, stubborn and treacherous. The horse with a teachable temper is kind and docile. He is easily taught and readily adapts himself to various conditions. He is very seldom frightened, excited or provoked to bad habits. The horse with a nervous temperament is ambitious and determined. He is quick to learn and acts with all his power. If he is properly directed he rapidly develops into the best type of horse. On the other hand, if he is improperly directed, he is quickly spoiled. He is easily frightened and has a natural tendency to develop such habits as shying, running away and the like. He seldom balks, and when he struggles he does so with all his power. Though this class resists hard, it is easily conquered, after which it will do anything that it understands. The horse with a stubborn temperament is will- ful and difficult to conquer. He calls for patient effort and tact on the part of the horseman, as the horse of this class is persistent and does not give up. The horse with such a temper often becomes sullen, his senses seem to have become blunted and he 188 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses apparently has no feeling. When he is excited the most severe punishment may be administered and he will not move in the least. If he does not respond to the first few strokes of the whip, it is useless to punish him further. He must be put through the Rarey or Galvayne course of subjection. The horse with a treacherous temper is very resent- ful. He acts without apparent cause and when least expected. He may balk, fight, kick, strike, bite, bolt or run away. Often he seems to be conquered and works freely, when of a sudden all his former viciousness returns. The other classes, when once conquered, remain obedient, but not so with the treacherous horse. While some horses of this class become fairly trustworthy after long usage, they seldom develop into steady work horses. In fact, one must be prepared to repeat the subjugation course at any time. TRAINING AND SUBDUING APPLIANCES In educating wild, stubborn and vicious horses, it is often necessary to have at hand a variety of training appliances. To save space later on when describing methods, we will consider the appliances first. Several kinds of halters, bridles, twitches, as well as many kicking, hobbling and throwing rigs, are described, as it may be necessary to try more than one hitch in order to bring about the desired results. How to Make a Yankee Bridle 189 Rope halter. — The simplest way to make a rope halter is from a soft rope about half an inch in diameter and about fifteen feet long. Double the rope at one end for about four feet, and tie a knot in the doubled part so as to form a large stationary loop about three and one half feet long. In this large loop make a small one for the lead rope to pass through. The second knot should be so tied as to leave one third of the large loop on one side and two thirds on the other, the short part to form the noseband, the long part the headpiece. Now place the free end of the rope through the small loop and the halter is ready for use (Fig. 42). A knot may be made in the lead rope under the chin to prevent the halter from squeezing the jaws together, other- wise the halter will draw tightly around the jaws. Yankee bridle. — To make this bridle, choose a soft rope three eighths of an inch in diameter and about twenty feet long. Tie one end of the rope around the horse's neck, close to the head, in such a way that the loop thus formed will not run. Pass the free end through the horse's mouth from the right side and up through the loop on the left side, and the bridle is completed (Fig. 43). The principle upon which this bridle acts seems to be that the horse obtains relief from the painful pressure of the rough rope on the corners of the mouth the instant he approaches the man who is pulling, and conse- quently follows to avoid the pain. 190 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses Yankee bridle modified. — With the right hand take hold of the lead rope near the horse's left jaw, with the left hand pass the free end of the rope over the head just back of the ears, down the right side, Fig. 42. — Rope halter. through the mouth again and then up the left side and through the portion of the rope held in the right hand, and you have the bridle completed (Fig. 44). To increase the severity of this bridle, instead of placing the latter rope in the mouth as a bit, place How to Make a War Bridle 191 it just under the upper lip and on top of the teeth, then draw tight. You now have one rope in the horse's mouth as an ordinary bit, and a second under the upper hp as a twitch, which forms a very efficient bridle for controlling refrac- tory horses. War bridle. — To make this bridle, choose a rope similar to the one described in making the Yankee bridle (p. 189), tie a small loop in one end just large enough to go in the horse's mouth and around the lower jaw. Now place this in the ani- mal's mouth as de- scribed, with the knot and free end on the right side, bring the Fig. 43. — Yankee bridle. Fig. 44. — Yankee bridle modified. 192 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses Fig. 45. — War bridle. Fig. -iO. — War bridle modified. free end up over the head, down the right side and through the loop at the mouth, thus completing the bridle (Fig. 45). In Europe this bridle is often referred to as the Comanche bridle. War bridle modi- fied. — Pass the free end of the rope over the horse's head, just back of the ears, down the right side, through the mouth, and then through the part which passes over the head and the bridle is completed (Fig. 46). The se- verity of this bridle may be increased as suggested in the Yankee bridle modi- fied, by passing the latter rope just under the upper lip, thus forming a twitch. How to Make a Pulleij Bridle 193 Many horsemen pre- fer this to the Yankee bridle because it is more convenient in arranging and re- moving. Excelsior bridle. — This bridle is made in exactly the same way as the war bridle modified, except that the first rope, instead of being placed over the head immedi- ately back of the ears, is arranged well down on the neck, al- most halfway to the withers (Fig. 47). This bridle is very effective in causing a horse to lower his head in case he in- sists on holding it up when teaching to take the bit. Pulley bridle. — In addition to the rope, two rings and a 0 Fig. 47. — Excelsior bridle. Fig. 48. — Pulley bridle. 194 Training Wild and Suhduirig Vicious Horses pulley are needed in making this bridle. Secure a short piece of rope and weave the two rings in so that when completed they will be about six inches apart, and you have a rope bit very similar to a common rubber-covered bit. With another piece of rope, weave one end to one of the rings, and the other end to the eye of the pulley, so that when completed it will be about eighteen inches from ring to pulley. Perhaps this should be measured on the animal's head, as the pulley should be about even with the left eye when the bridle is in position on the head. Now Fig. 49. — Pulley bridle with three rings. weave one end of the lead rope to the other ring. Place the rope bit in the horse's mouth with the lead rope on the left and the pulley rope on the right side, carry the latter over the head just back of the ears and hold the pulley on the left side of the head while you slip the free end of the lead rope through it; next pass the lead rope down through the ring on the left side and the bridle is complete (Fig. 48) . This makes Combined Bridle and Twitch 195 a very efficient bridle for controlling stubborn and re- fractory horses. Sometimes this bridle is made by using a third ring instead of a pulley (Fig. 49). Pulley bridle modified. — In making this bridle, neither rings nor pulley are used. Use a rope sim- ilar to that suggested in making the Yankee bridle (p. 189), and tie a small loop in one end and insert in the horse's mouth as in the war bridle (p. 191) . Now carry the free end over the head two inches back of the ears and down the left side just a little below the eye; with the right hand hold the rope here, and with the left double the free end back over the head again imme- diately back of the ears, carry the free end down the right side and through the mouth, then up and through the rope you are holding with the right hand, then down through the loop in the mouth, and the bridle is completed (Fig. 50). As with the other modified bridles, the severity of this one can be greatly in- creased by placing the last rope just under the upper lip, thus making a twitch, Fig. 50. — Pulley bridle modified. 196 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses Hackamore bridle. — To make an Indian Hackamore, take a soft, three-eighths inch rope about twenty feet long, tie a running loop in one end, put it around the horse's neck just back of the ears, pull the loop open, and with the part with which the loop is made take a half-hitch about his nose. Now with the free end make a second half- hitch about the nose. Grasp the middle of the second hitch where it passes over the nose and run it through the first hitch twice, pulling it out far enough to pass over the head. This completes the- Hackamore bridle as made by some, while others pass the latter rope twice around the rope already at the top of the head and bring it out around the forehead, making a brow band. This makes a substantial hitch, and is much used by the Indians, Mexicans and plainsmen (Fig. 51). Cavesson halter. — This consists of a common leather halter with a heavy, leather-covered noseband Fig. 51. — Hackamore bridle. How to Make a Twitch 197 made of metal to which the lead rein is attached so as to inflict blows on the nose by hght jerking. While this appliance is much used in Europe, especially in the riding-schools, its use is not recommended, as it often renders the horse difficult to handle about the face and head. Better results can be obtained from some form of twitch. Lip-twitch. — This is made by tying a loop in a small rope, such as sash-cord, through a hole in the end of a stick. The loop should be about nine inches long, while the stick may be from one to five feet long, according to convenience. The loop is slipped over the upper lip of the horse, and the stick, which forms the handle, twisted until his attention is attracted. As the horse's lip is very sensitive, the twitch should not be used more frequently nor tighter than is necessary. Noose-twitch. — To make this twitch, use a small rope, such as sash-cord, and at one end tie a small Fig. 62. — Noose-twitch. 198 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses stationary loop. With the right hand hold this loop on the left side of the horse's head, and with the left hand place the free end of the rope over the head just back of the ears, down the right side and in the mouth just under the upper lip and on top of the teeth, and then up through the loop being held in the right hand, and the twitch is completed (Fig. 52). In case the horse is very wild, it will re- quire some manipu- lation to get this twitch in place. One can often facilitate the work by employ- ing a crooked stick, especially if the horse strikes or bites at the operator. Halter-twitch. — To make this twitch, use the rope halter described (p. 189), or any common rope halter; with the right hand hold the lead rope close to the halter, and with the left hand pass the free end over the head just back of the ears and down the right side, through the mouth just under the upper lip and then up around the rope in the right hand, and the twitch is complete (Fig. 53). This makes a very Fig. 53. — Halter-twitch. Halter and Twitch Combined 199 convenient and efficient appliance for leading and handling a refractory horse. Headstall-twitch. — This twitch is made from a common leather halter by passing the lead rope through the lower ring of the halter on the left side of the head, then over the top of the head just back of the ears, down the right side and through the mouth under the upper lip and then up through the upper ring on the left side. This makes a very powerful twitch. In case the lead rope is not sufficiently long to go over the head, a fair twitch can be made by placing the lead rope through the lower ring on the right side of the head, then down and through the mouth, under the upper lip, then up through the lower ring on the left side of the head, and the twitch is completed, though this is not so efficient as where the rope passes over the head, and the rope extends to the upper ring of the halter (Fig. 54). Fig. 54, — Headstall-twitch. 200 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses Bridle-twitch. — In making this twitch, the right snaffle-rein is passed under the upper Up and drawn tightly to the left side. This is often employed in training the horse to stand quietly after he has been bridled, and while you mount. Rearing-twitch. — This twitch is suggested for the horse that rears in the saddle. Secure a small rope the size of a sash-cord and about ten feet long, tie a knot in it about six inches from one end and draw it tightly, tie another knot about six inches from the first, but leave it open. Pass the knotted end of the rope through the horse's mouth, and bring it around the lower jaw and pass through the open knot, and work it up tightly against the lower jaw. Pass the free end back through the breast-plate, if there is one attached to the saddle, then between the forelegs, through a ring arranged in the middle of the girth, and then up to the right hand, or the end may be secured to the saddle. Now w^hen the horse shows an inclination to rear, immediately pull the cord. Wooden-gag. — This gag is made from a block of hard wood, five or six inches long, and about two inches square. The corners should be rounded to prevent severe injury. A hole is bored through the center, longways, for a chain which is attached to a headstall. Some persons tack leather guards on each end to prevent the horse from getting the gag out of his mouth. This gag is used to prevent the horse from biting, and for curing him of the habit. A Lead Rope 201 The guy rope. — This is a lead rope for controlling wild, refractory and vicious horses. To make it, use a soft, three-eighths inch rope about twenty feet long and make a small stationary loop in one end. Place this loop under the left jaw, carrying the free end over the neck from right to left, then down the left side of the head through the loop and to the mouth, then through the mouth, back under the lower jaw, and between the jaw and the rope coming from the neck, thus forming a loop around the neck, and a half-hitch around the jaw (Fig. 55). This makes a very efficient lead, though it should never be used in prolonged pulls, but in short, quick jerks. Combination bridle. — To make this, choose a small rope or sash-cord about thirty feet long, put the middle of it in the horse's mouth, pass both ends up toward the forehead, knotting them in front and a little above the eyes (some slip the foretop in this knot before drawing tight), pass both free ends over Fig. 55. — Guy rope. 202 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses the head between the ears and bring one end down either side just back of the jaws, twist the ropes together, then bring each end forward and around the rope in the mouth, one on either side; next pass the free ends back through the rings in the surcingle, and then carry them on back behind the horse, and you have a very efficient combination bridle and lines for controlling a wild horse (Fig. 56). Kicking strap. — This is used to prevent the horse from kicking when in the shafts. It is made from leather, which always should be of the very best and should not be less than two inches wide, and of such length as will reach from one shaft over the horse's rump to the other shaft (Fig. 17). When the strap is fixed in its keepers there should be practically no play in the strap between the shafts and the rump of the horse. Kicking reins. — These reins are useful in control- ling the horse that bucks as well as the one that kicks. To make them, secure two small ropes or sash-cords about eighteen feet long. Put an overdraw check on the horse with a ring just back of the ears. Take one of the small ropes, tie one end in the ring on the overcheck just back of the ears, pass the free end down through the ring at the top of the surcingle, then forward and through the ring of the bridle bit, then back through the ring on the side of the sur- cingle. Put the other rope on the other side in a similar manner. These cords can be used as. lines, a o a o O d M 204 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses and they are very effective, particularly on the horse that has a tendency to get his head down against his breast, thus making it impossible to control him with ordinary lines. If the animal attempts to buck or kick, pull on the cords, thus raising his head and preventing him from either kicking or bucking, as he cannot do either without lowering his head. As these reins are very severe, they should never be used with more force than is necessary to secure obedience. Kicking harness. — To make this harness, it is necessary to have a very substantial overdraw check provided with a ring just back of the ears, two pulleys and a small rope. The pulleys should be secured to the shafts, one on either side, about where the kicking strap is fastened. Attach the rope over the rump similar to the kicking strap. Pass the free ends of the rope down through the pulley on either shaft, then up through the terrets at the saddle, and attach to the ring in overdraw check just back of the ears. If the horse attempts to kick in this harness, he jerks his head up, thus preventing him from kicking, as he cannot kick without lowering his head. This is a very effective harness for curing chronic kickers, as they are punished each time they attempt to kick. Self -punishing harnesses. — While there are many methods of arranging self-punishing harness, per- haps the following is as simple and efficient as any. Self-correcting Harness 205 Choose a sash-cord or soft quarter-inch rope about twelve feet long, a soft three-eighths inch rope about six feet long, a light pulley, four straps one inch wide and about two feet long, and two rings two inches in diameter. Place the long rope through the eye of the pulley and the short rope through the pulley Fig. 57. — Self-punishing harness. itself. Draw the short rope backward from the front under the girth so the pulley will rest just back of the girth (Fig. 57). Buckle the straps above and below the hocks and through the rings; tie, by half -hitches, the short rope into these rings. Next grasp the ends of the small rope, pass each to the rings of the bridle bit, at either side, passing through the rings from the outside, then pass the small ropes up over the head, 206 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses under the head-stall of the bridle, then down the opposite side and fasten to the bridle rings by a half- hitch, so that the rope can be easily unfastened no matter how tightly it may be drawn. If there is danger that the straps will slip down over the hocks, they should be supported by a light strap placed over the rump and down to the hock on either side. When this harness is properly made of substantial material, it may be used to correct many bad habits, such as kicking, rearing, bolting, running, and the like. Should a horse kick in such a harness, the rope over the head draws the bit up into the angles of the mouth and holds it there until relieved by the trainer. This should be done gently and with patience. The advantage of such a harness is that the horse deals out his own punishment at the instant he violates his master's will. Hobbles. — These are used to prevent the horse from kicking. They are often used on a mare at time of service to prevent her from kicking the stallion. To make the hobble, use a soft rope one inch in diameter, and about eighteen feet long, four straps about one and one half inches wide and two feet long, and two rings two inches in diameter. Double the rope at the middle and tie a knot forming a stationary loop about three feet long. Buckle the straps above and below the hocks and through the rings. Now place the large loop over the horse's head and slip it back to the shoulders much as a How to Make Hobbles 207 collar, pass the free ends between the forelegs and tie off in the rings at the hocks by half-hitches, thus completing the hobbles (Fig. 58). As buckhng the straps about the hock entails much risk, it is a better plan to have the rings sewed to the straps, which Fig. 58. — Hobbles. calls for four rings instead of two, the ends of each pair of straps being attached to a ring and the rope passing through both rings on either pair. Rarey's leg-strap. — This is a strong strap used for fastening up a horse's foreleg. It should be approxi- mately three feet long, two inches wide and at one end of it there should be attached a heavy buckle with a 208 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses keeper. Now place a free running keeper on the strap and the leg strap is completed. To adjust the strap, pass it around the pastern of the horse and through the running keeper. Then draw the fore- leg up until the heel touches the elbow, pass the free end of the strap around the forearm, then Fig. 59.^ — Rarey's single safety. through the buckle, and draw tight. The horse is now unable to get his front foot to the ground and must walk about on three legs. As a cautionary measure it is a good plan to put on a soft knee-pad, otherwise should the horse come down on his knee he may injure it permanently. Rarei/s safety harness. — This harness was devised by Rarey for use in training wild, stubborn and ^3 m c3 a o I >> 03 o 04 o CD d 210 Training Wild and Subduing Vicious Horses vicious horses. There are two forms, the single and the double safety; in the former one front leg only is under restraint, while in the latter both front legs are under control. This harness consists of two straps about one foot long and fitted with D-shaped rings, a surcingle fitted with two rings on the belly, three on either side and one over the saddle and a long rope Fig. 61. — Rarey's single safety, restraining one foreleg. (Figs. 59 and 60). The straps are buckled around the front pasterns and the surcingle around the body. The straps should be padded to protect the pasterns in case the animal struggles, and the knees should also be provided with pads. In arranging the double safety, one end of the rope is passed through the ring at the belly, then down and through the ring at the left pastern, then up to and through the other ring w tD