TEEN) bebe eee Tiere ene ttre Comme ee COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: TRAINING THE DOG d4Nj}JeIID [NJtapuom wv se NOA uUOdN Yoo] 0} Ueda] [JIM ay pue ‘Jsiy 94} Wo1y Sop 4no& JO uoluedwod jeas ve ayR Training the Dog BY ROBERT S. LEMMON _ NEW YORK McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 1914 SF aia Reine Copyright, 1914, by McBrrpez, Nast & Co. Published March, 1914 MAR 23 1914 Ar ©cias62984 HA | FAO , EEL FE Soil” es hae wah A Worp In ADVANCE HERE is no attempt in this book to cover exhaustively the whole sub- ject of dog training: that would be im- possible in any volume of reasonable size. Rather is the purpose to give sim- vle, straightforward directions which will enable the person inexperienced in — such matters to bring up an ‘‘all- around’’ dog so that he will be obedient, cheerful, and master of all the accom- plishments that, exclusive of the hunt. ing field and the stage, can reasonably be demanded. Much of the material contained in the following pages appeared originally in abridged form in the columns of House & Garden; for the privilege of pres- ent publication the author makes grate- ful acknowledgment to the editor of that magazine. Rk. S. L. New York, December, 1913. CONTENTS CHAPTER I II III VIII GENERAL PRINCIPLES . THE PUPPY “COME” AND “LIE DOWN” . “HEEL” AND “FETCH” TEACHING TRICKS ADVANCED LESSONS THE ALL“ROUND DOG THE CHOICE OF A BREED . THE DOG’S QUARTERS . GENERAL CARE THE ILLUSTRATIONS ‘Make a real companion of your dog ene) hal en hc ROM em Tel ela. FACING PAGE Pee HAMS 7 a Le a ey The first position in ‘‘lie down’’. . . 28v Megenme to ( meel?? 0 ee BOM “ey it a ec A MENIES) ON GLIS TTY. 1S as Ae Mana eA ered ce rrte eh a he Ciel ei GON Pe ee Oe a eereeti ROME ee ae a Ppgeeguaie Quarters 4: 6). OGY TRAINING THE DOG Training the Dog I GeneraL PRINCIPLES NLIKE Cesar’s Gaul, all dogdom is divided into but two parts: trained dogs, and the vast majority. A eynical attitude? Well—perhaps; but do not misunderstand the word ‘‘trained’’ as it is here used. Many dogs are, it is true, taught to a certain extent. They will come when called—if they feel like it. They will bark, or lie down, or jump over a stick, or sit up when told to—if they are hungry and feel confi- dent of receiving some tid-bit as a re- ward for performing the trick. But 1 2 TRAINING THE DOG such dogs are not really trained: they have little or no conception of obedience for its own sake; they comply with their owners’ commands only because they foresee some personal gain by doing so. The most important thing that every dog must learn, providing he is to be- come a self-respecting and respected member of the household, is that what his master or mistress says is absolute law. Perhaps this may sound a bit ob- vious, but if it does, just stop and think of the few dog owners you know who have the slightest control over their pets when the latter prefer to follow their own inclinations. For example, Fido, or Roger or Bruce has his natural in- stinct for hunting aroused by a carriage which rattles along the street, and he proceeds to depart from the family group on your friend’s piazza at the rate of three jumps to the second and © five barks to the jump. A chorus of — feminine shrieks and masculine roars, — GENERAL PRINCIPLES -— 3 all with Fido’s name as motif, is added to the tumult; but Fido happily contin- ues his noisy career as unheeding and eare-free as an Hinglish sparrow on a cornice, and he and the carriage vanish up the street in a cloud of dust. After the family ire has had time to cool down, Fido returns, for he is a knowing dog and abhors punishment. This is not an agreeable picture, al- though a tiresomely common one; and the worst of it is the blame is seldom placed where it really belongs—on the person or persons who have had charge of the dog’s upbringing. Ninety per cent. of the worry, annoyance and dam- age caused by dogs in the average com- munity is directly attributable to the ignorance, indifference or what you will of their owners, who permit the forma- tion of bad habits and then, when the trouble has gone too far to be easily remedied, either give it up as a bad job or else, considering the dog an utterly 4 TRAINING THE DOG unreasonable and wunreasoning brute, adopt the unfair method of trying to beat it out of him by main strength. Successful dog training is an art which, while it requires certain innate qualities in the trainer who would at- tain the highest proficiency, can to a great extent be acquired by any normal person. It is not a thing to be gone into hit-or-miss, nor followed out assidu- ously for two days and then neglected — for a month. In some ways a dog is extremely like a child, and he is quick to estimate the temperament of his owner and be guided accordingly. Treat him wisely and with due regard for his limi- tations, and he will respond with the best that is in him; be unreasonable or neg- lectful, and do not blame him if he goes wrong. Whether you wish a dog for a guard- ian, a companion or merely a playmate, he should have an adequate education, so fix firmly, definitely and imeradicably SS See GENERAL PRINCIPLES 5 in your mind these three words, which are as guide-posts on the path to suc- cess as a trainer: patience, firmness and common sense. Too great stress cannot be laid on the absolute essentialness of these qualities. I wish that their prime importance could be drummed into the heads of dog owners in general for the sake of the trained as well as the trainer, because their application constitutes the underlying principle, the very founda- tion and bedrock of success in the han- dling of dogs. Let us briefly consider each in turn. Patience is just as necessary here as in the teaching of a child—perhaps more so, for the pupil’s mental qualities are less highly developed than are the child’s. There will be many times in the train- ing of even the most willing dog when your self-control will be taxed to the ut- most. The temptation to lose your tem- per will be almost irresistible, but— believe me—you must never yield to it. 6 TRAINING THE DOG Once let it be evident to the dog (and he is astonishingly quick to realize such things) that you cannot always control yourself, and your hold over him is gone. Never shout at your dog, and never be angrily rough with him. Repetition, repetition, and yet more repetition— thus and thus only can the lessons be. taught. Absolute firmness in enforcing com- mands does not imply harshness. It means simply that when an order is given and understood, obedience to it must be insisted upon. There must be no dallying, no hesitating on the part of the teacher, no halfway measures or compromises. The dog must learn that prompt and strict measures from which there is no escape will be employed if he seeks to shirk obedience. Common sense is perhaps less obvi- ously necessary than the other two qualities mentioned, but it is of great importance nevertheless. Do not ex- SS ee ae es epee ee ae ee GENERAL PRINCIPLES rf pect unreasonable things of your dog, and do not try to force him to do what is beyond his power. Do not act on im- pulse during the training period; take no step until you are sure whither it will lead you. Make it a point to be with your dog personally as much as possible, and if it can be arranged, always feed him yourself; for from the very first he should be trained by and look up to as master or mistress one person only. Too often all the members of the family wish to have a finger—or perhaps both hands—in bringing up a dog in the way he should go, with the result that a sub- _ ject which is none too easy at best is made doubly hard and puzzling to him. _ After all the lessons are thoroughly learned it is well enough to allow some- - one else to put him through his paces at times; but until then, remember, one teacher and one only. Another frequently misunderstood 8 TRAINING THE DOG point is the matter of suitably reward- ing the dog for going through his ac- complishments. It is a common—l might almost say usual—custom for an inexperienced trainer to reward the suc- cessful efforts of his pupil by tid-bits that appeal strongly to the latter’s love for his own digestive organization. While this method often secures satis- factory results while the food is in im- mediate prospect and the dog hungry enough to work for it, yet the whole principle on which such a means of in- ducing obedience depends is faulty. In- stead of the dog doing as he is ordered from a sense of duty, he obeys sim- ply from personal gastronomic reasons. Let him lose his appetite or the prospect of being fed with dainties for the slight trouble of coming when called or heed- ing the command to ‘‘beg,’’ and your control of his actions will probably be extremely conspicuous by its absence. Never make food an offered reward for ee So Se ee ee GENERAL PRINCIPLES 9 obedience. A kindly pat and a few - words of praise will be keenly appreci- ated by the dog which is_ sensibly handled, and in the long run they are by far the best. The question of proper methods of punishing for disobedience may well be mentioned here, although it will be treated more definitely in connection with the various lessons. In general, it is hopeless to try and train a dog solely by persuasion. Force must at times be resorted to, and pain inflicted in order that the penalty for wrong-doing may be sufficient in the dog’s mind to deter him from leaving the straight and narrow path of rectitude. Do not for a moment think, however, that I recommend a fre- quent resort to the whip or other harsh means of punishment. On the contrary, that should be employed only as a last resort. If the dog has been brought up to realize that a sharp reprimand means something, a solid ‘‘talking to’’ will 10 TRAINING THE DOG - usually be all that is required. And when you do have to use the whip, be very sure that the culprit realizes why you are punishing him, else you will do far more harm than good. Watch, too, that your temper does not rise unduly— many a dog is spoiled in that way. And now just a few words as to the best age at which to obtain a dog. In general, it is advisable to get a puppy of between six weeks and six months, the exact age being determined largely by your opportunities. and desires. Pup- pies of from six to twelve weeks are more susceptible to sickness than when older, yet no one should hesitate on this account, for a normally sound dog of any age is seldom afflicted with any seri- ous malady if proper care is given. Furthermore, there are very distinct ad- vantages in securing a pup soon after he is weaned and before he has had an opportunity to contract any bad habits. There is more than a modicum of truth GENERAL PRINCIPLES = 11 in the old saw about the difficulty of - teaching an old dog new tricks, and the beginner will do well not to start with that handicap. II Tur Puppy OUR puppy has arrived. Be he Dalmatian or dachshund, bulldog or beagle, he is fat, unsteady on his feet, and probably inclined to bewail his ab- sent mother and generally gloomy out- look on life with heartrending whim- pers which soon rise to a series of shrill yells that disturb the family and the neighbors. This is a perfectly natural if somewhat disagreeable habit of eight-weeks-old puppies, so even at this early stage of the game you have an opportunity to prove your fitness as a dog trainer by exercising patience and self-control. Do not apply the flat of your hand nor yet a stick of kindling wood or an apple switch to the pup; do 12 THE. PUPPY 13 not, in these first days, even speak harshly to him or do anything else that will jar on his nervous system and thereby increase his unhappy mood. Instead, divert his mind by play, food and a comfortable place to sleep, and as the novelty of the strange situation wears off, so the pup’s wailing will gradually decrease in frequency and vol- ume. Spend as much time as possible with the youngster, of course allowing him to sleep undisturbed as much and as often as he will, for the sooner you gain an insight into his particular individual- ity the better. Watch the pup intelli- gently and you will see gradually de- veloping traits and peculiarities—in- quisitiveness, boldness or shrinking at sudden sounds and new sights, etc.—a knowledge of which will be of great value later on. Nor is this close as- sociation advised merely that the work of teaching may be made easier and 14 TRAINING THE DOG more successful through an understand- ing of the pupil’s personality: it will also tend to stimulate and increase very - materially the intelligence with which the dog is endowed by nature. If the pup is inclined to be timid, take especial pains not to let him be frightened in any way whatever. A young puppy is extremely impression- able, and a severe fright will have a far more lasting effect on him than most people imagine. Do not, on the other hand, make a mollycoddle of the young- ster; simply accustom him by slow de- grees, always showing him that he is under your protection, to those sights, sounds and experiences which he does not understand. Probably, if yours is a normal, healthy pup of any of the more active breeds, he will, at the age of nine or ten weeks, show a propensity to worry, tear and chew curtains, shoestrings, and anything else soft and dangling that is ee ee a oe “Shake hands” is one of the most easily taught tricks THE PUPPY, 15 within reach. This is but the awaken- ing of that instinct which in a natural state makes a dog’s jaws and teeth his most valuable assets, so do not lose pa- tience. On the principle that ‘‘out of sight is out of mind’’ remove either the temptation or the dog. If this does not suffice, and the habit grows worse, catch the pup in the act and, tapping him on the side of the jaw hard enough to make him look up in surprise, sharply order ““Stop iw!’’ A few repetitions of this will suffice to impress the youngster with the meaning of the words. As the puppy grows older he will in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred lose interest in the tearing game. Until then, merely curb the desire instead of trying to beat it out of him; for it has its bright side inasmuch as it is an in- dication of the spirit which the adult dog will possess. It is an old saying among bird-dog men that the more a pup tries to tear things the more 16 TRAINING THE DOG spirited, ambitious and valuable he will become when mature—a principle which holds good with other breeds. With the exception of the one order mentioned above, and another lesson to be mentioned presently, do not under- take any real and consistent discipline until your dog is at least four months old. The brain of a pup of but ten or twelve weeks is too undeveloped to com- prehend the why and the wherefore of regular training, and it should not be taxed with remembering more than a very few things. But, even if the dog is not to be kept regularly in the house, it is quite essential that you take up at an early age the matter of HOUSE BREAKING The formation of cleanly habits about the house is a matter which cannot be overlooked, and in attaining it many homeopathic doses of prevention are worth more than a few allopathic ones Tae PUPPY 17 of dog whip. Sometimes the latter is necessary, but before resorting to it be perfectly sure that the culprit fully ap- preciates why he is being punished and what he should have done to avoid it, and then make the chastisement an adequate one. The first step in house breaking may be taken as soon as your pup arrives. If he is to be kept in the house, make it a point to see that you or someone else takes him outdoors for a while at reasonable intervals. This will aid greatly in the formation of proper habits, but when (as is certain to be the case sooner or later) the pup misbe- haves, drag him to the spot where the wrong-doing occurred, reprimand him sharply, and at once put him out-of- doors, leaving him there for five minutes or so before admitting him to the house again. The method just described is effec- tive in the majority of cases, and is the 18 TRAINING THE DOG first that should be tried. If satisfac- tory results are not obtained, chain the dog up short at the place where he mis- behaved, leave him there alone with a scolding to think about for fifteen min- utes, then lead him outdoors and release. This method is based on the fact that most dogs, knowing they have acted im- properly, hate to be forced to remain on the scene of the misdemeanor. Such enforced presence causes them consid- erable chagrin, which they will seek to. — avoid in the future. By following these instructions it will often be found possible successfully to - house break a dog in two or three weeks, depending largely on how often the op- portunity to punish presents itself; but — | some cases require more drastic treat- ment. If the plans suggested do not ef- fect a cure, and if the pup nevertheless seems to realize in what respect he has done wrong yet continues to do so will- fully, then reprimand and switch him on THE PUPPY 19 the spot, immediately thereafter put- ting him outdoors. Do not be afraid of being unceremonious about this, and be sure not to release the dog on the piazza or steps—take him all the way to the ground before letting him go. Other- wise he may get the idea that cleanly habits are required only when actually inside the house. Obviously, it is necessary during the course of house breaking, as well as later on, to watch for and heed any sions the dog may give of desiring to go outdoors. If you see him move to- ward the door, go at once and open it for him. With this encouragement he will quickly learn to make his wishes known. | Before leaving the subject of the puppy per se, it may be well to speak of a mistake often made: giving the young- ster exercise immediately after a - hearty meal. It is natural for a dog to sleep after feeding, as digestion goes on 20 TRAINING THE DOG much better when at rest than when ac- tive. This applies equally to grown dogs and puppies, and in the case of the latter there is the added fact that the extra weight of the body caused by a good feed may be too much of a strain on the legs if they are required to sup- port it for any length of time. A young puppy’s bones and joints are soft and easily overtaxed: many a case of rickets, ‘‘cow hocks’’? or knock-knees is directly traceable to keeping the young- ster too much on his feet. ITI ‘““Comn’’ anp ‘‘Lizr Down’”’ E will take it for granted that you have now had your puppy for several weeks, in which time you have gained some insight into his character, and he, on his side of the situation, has become thoroughly accustomed to his new surroundings and friends. Also it may be assumed that he is in normally good health and spirits, and not under- developed for his four or five months of age. It is time that his real education be commenced, and the first lesson he must learn is to obey the order to “COME” If you have not already done so, be- gin now to utter in a clear but natural | 21 22 TRAINING THE DOG voice the single word ‘‘Come’’ when- — ever the pup shows an inclination to ap- proach you of his own accord. In a short time (varying, of course, with the youngster’s brightness) he will associ- ate the spoken word with the act of com- ing to you, though as yet he does not understand it as a command which must be obeyed. Now take the pup to a small, closed room in a quiet part of the house, where there will be no distracting sights or ~ sounds to draw his attention from the ~ lesson he is to receive. Take also a suitable collar—to wearing which we — will assume he has been accustomed—a ~ piece of stout cord ten or fifteen feet — long, and all the patience at your com- ~ mand. Close the door and give the ~ puppy a few minutes to explore the § room if he feels disposed to do so. ~ Then give him the word to ‘‘come.”’ — Probably he will heed it at once. If so, — pat him a little to show your approval, — “COME”? AND ‘‘LIE DOWN’”’ 23 and when he has moved away repeat the command. For the first few times the word will probably be heeded and then the pup will much prefer to go on about business of his own. This is the critical point. You must insist upon obedience or else the lesson and many others which follow it will go for naught. Repeat the command once, to be certain your pupil has heard it, and the puppy still refusing to come, walk quietly to him and without any further remarks attach one end of the cord to his collar. Walk away a few feet with the other end of the cord and again order ‘‘come,’’ following it at once with a steady shortening of the taut string. As soon as he feels the pull of the cord. the pup will be sure to hang back and very likely cut up all kinds of antics. Do not mind this in the least; do not hesitate a moment, but pull him steadily to you firmly but not roughly, repeating ‘‘come’’ in the usual 24 TRAINING THE DOG tone. Then pat as before, move away a short distance if the dog does not move from the place to which he has been drawn, and again give the order. Wait an instant for him to come of his own accord, and if he refuses bring the cord into play again. Half a dozen repetitions of this pull- ing process may teach the pup the why and the wherefore of it, or they may not. In either case, stop after the sixth or seventh time, untie the cord and give your pupil a chance to regain his probably ruffled composure. Let him . move about the room freely without any attempt on your part to control his ac- tions, and when he feels less dispirited, again bid him ‘‘come,’’ resorting to the cord treatment as before if necessary. It is not well in most instances to pro- long this lesson for more than fifteen minutes with a young puppy; in the case of a mature dog I strongly advise “COME”? AND “LIE DOWN”? 25 that you ‘‘stay with him’’ until no glim- mer of doubt remains in his mind as to who is master. Throughout it is ab- solutely necessary that you refrain from all harshness of word or hand. Be kind but firm, insistent but not noisy, and do not move hurriedly about. Dogs are very easily affected by the temperament of their trainers and are quick to perceive the slightest giving way to irritation or impatience. When the lesson is over open the door and let the puppy out. Treat him ex-— actly as if nothing out of the ordinary had happened and do not attempt am- other session with him for several hours at least. On the other hand, do not allow more than a day to elapse be- tween lessons, for growing puppies can forget a great deal in a short time. Continue the cord, collar and room treatment until you feel that you have the situation well in hand. Then take 26 TRAINING THE DOG the pupil outdoors and test the thoroughness of your control over him under more distracting circumstances. You will probably encounter some diffi- culty under the new condition, but perse- vere until it is overcome. Practice this lesson often even after itis well mastered. Then omit the cord and make the dog come to you at command from increas- ingly great distances; if at any time he refuses, at once attach the cord again and give him a strict and very thorough drill. Then try again without the cord. Perhaps you wonder why I have ad-. vised that the ‘‘come’’ lessons should be given in a small room; the freedom from distracting influences may seem an insufficient reason. There is another and very good reason—the pup can’t get away from you. In the room you are always in a position to enforce com- mands without delay; outdoors you may not be. Remember these principles throughout the training work: Never ere ““COMH’’? AND ‘‘LIE DOWN”? 27 gwe a command when you cannot en- force it, and never neglect to enforce it when once it is given. When your dog has been thoroughly taught the lesson ‘‘come,’’ and not until then, you may take up the second real step in his schooling—‘‘lie down.”’ There are several reasons why this should be the next thing on the program. In the first place, it is simple and easily enforced; also, it is practical and ab- solutely essential in the education of every well-mannered dog. And when I speak of ‘‘lie down’’ I mean he down and. stay down until permission is given to do otherwise. There is absolutely no excuse for the dog whose master makes any pretense to having him well trained, to hop up again three seconds (or three minutes) after he has been ordered to lie down, unless he is told to do so. Neither a person passing by, nor a dog fight down the street—no, not even a cat yowling on the front steps— 98 TRAINING THE DOG should be sufficient cause to warrant a change of attitude. t Perhaps to some people such strict- — ness may seem harsh and unreasonable. — It is neither. It is merely that old idea of implicit obedience carried a little far- ther, and, depend upon it, both dog and master will be happier thereby. For example, it is a comfort to you to know, when you stop at a friend’s house for a few minutes, that by a word you can put Boze, or Terry, or whatever your dog’s name may be, in a position where he cannot get into trouble by killing the family cat or digging ground moles on the front lawn. And Boze also will de- rive benefit from the period of inaction, on the principle that ten minutes of ly- ing down will cause him less physical anguish than one minute of dog whi) after he has unearthed the mole or sent the cat to the Happy Hunting Grounds. ~ For the first lesson, take the dog to some place where you will be alone with The first position in “lie down” “COME”? AND “LIE DOWN” 29 him; the quiet room where you taught him to ‘‘come’’ is the best. Kneel be- side him and placing your left hand across his hind quarters press down firmly, meanwhile taking his front feet together in the right hand and drawing them forward. Keep repeating ‘‘lie down’’ as you thus bring the dog to a recumbent position. The chances are that when you get him about halfway down he will flop over on his side and gaze at you with an unusually injured and abject expression. Do not mind this; straighten him into a reasonably prone position and hold him there a min- ute, still repeating the command. Then release and give the word ‘‘up,’’ simul- taneously rising yourself. Pat and praise a bit, then repeat the lesson. Be deliberate and avoid all semblance of roughness; firmness and patience are the twin keys to success here. As the dog begins to understand the why and wherefore of your actions, grad- 30 TRAINING THE DOG ually use less pressure on his loins, finally letting go of the fore legs as well. But keep one hand ever ready to check instantly any symptoms of disobedience, and until your pupil heeds the command promptly without any manual assist- ance, do not fail to kneel yourself when enforcing it; this makes for greater will- ingness on his part. The dog now drops instantly at the command and stays down until ordered up. The next step is to teach him to ‘‘stay put’? even when you are out of sight. To attain this most desirable re- sult, proceed as follows: Order ‘‘le down,’ then walk slowly away a few steps in such a direction that the dog can easily see you. Watch him closely, and at the least indication of a motion to rise stop your retreat at once and sharply repeat the order. Keep the dog down for a minute or so, then give the word ‘‘up,’’ perhaps changing your tone and manner so as to indicate that he ee # ¥ i} % 1 f [ ” ob j q ‘COMB’? AND ‘‘LIE DOWN’”’ 31 has done well. Continue these lessons, gradually increasing the time and dis- tance between yourself and the dog, moving around and behind him, and -finally leaving the room altogether. Any disobedience at any stage of the proceedings must be checked by a sharp reprimand (not a shout, however), for the dog knows perfectly well when he is doing wrong. One thing more, and we will consider that the pup’s acquaintance with two of his three essential lessons is complete. That thing is obedience to a gesture signifying ‘‘lie down.’’ This is a sim- ple, easily taught and very desirable ac- complishment. It is, as a matter of fact, borrowed from the curriculum of _ the pointer or setter that is trained for field work in conjunction with the gun, but that does not make it any less fitted to the case of the ‘‘all-’round’’ dog. The gesture is merely an extending of your open hand away from your body, 32 TRAINING THE DOG palm down and fingers together. To teach it, simply let it accompany the command ‘‘lie down’’ whenever the lat- ter is given. The dog has by this time learned to watch your movements in- telligently, and you will find that the ges- ture alone will soon be promptly heeded. IV ‘Hrent’’? ano ‘‘EF'rtron’’ VERY dog that is worth having— and I say this advisedly—should be taught to ‘‘heel.’’ This term may not be familiar to some, though its meaning is really not obscure. It sig- nifies merely that when the order ‘‘heel’’ is given the dog shall come close to its master’s or mistress’s heels and remain there until given some such releasing word as ‘‘on,’’ ‘‘hie on’’ or ‘‘get away.”’ The value of such an accomplishment on the dog’s part is obvious. It is de- signed primarily as a handy substitute for leash or chain when you are out walking and for any reason wish your dog to remain close to you for a long 33 34 TRAINING THE DOG or short period. Everyone who has © had experience with the average ca- — nine’s proclivity for ‘‘running wild’’ © over front lawns, in and out of yards © abutting on the street, etc., knows what — complications often arise therefrom. Entirely aside from your own conveni- — ence in the matter, it is no more than fair to the dog to keep him under ~ proper control when passing along a thickly-settled residence street, for ex- — ample, and, admittedly, other people © whose rights are infringed upon by the ~ inadequately trained dog are entitled © to some consideration. There is real value, also, in ‘‘heel’? when it comes to — avoiding wayside fights between your ~ dog and the pugnacious individuals of — his kind which he is sure to meet from — time to time when out with you. The ~ average bully of dogdom will think © twice before attacking a dog following © within a few inches of his master’s — heels. And if worse comes to worse, — ‘“AHEL’? AND ‘‘FETCH’’ = 35 you are close enough to the arena to render prompt assistance if need be. “*Feel?? is not a difficult lesson to teach, especially when the pupil’s mind has been at least rudimentarily trained by the commands ‘‘come’’ and ‘‘lie down.’’ As for all lessons, take the dog away from anything tending to distract him from the work in hand. Snap a chain to his collar, and provide yourself with a light switch two or three feet long. Take the chain in the left hand, holding it behind you and short enough so that the dog will be obliged to stay within a few inches of your feet. Now, with the switch in your right hand, walk slowly away, the dog, of course, neces- sarily following. Keep repeating the word ‘‘heel’’ in a tone similar to that used in other commands. The dog may either hang back on the chain or try to push forward and past you. In the first event, merely tighten your grip on | the chain and walk on; in the second, 36 TRAINING THH DOG tap him very lightly about the head with the switch, thus inducing him to fall -back to his proper place. If he at- tempts to break away to one side or the other, check him with the switch and chain, chiefly the latter. A ee session of this sort of thing will demonstrate to the average dog that the wisest and most comfortable thing for him to do is to stay as close to your heels as possible. When this point is reached, you may begin to slacken up on the chain a little, at the same time watching closely for any move away from position and checking it promptly should it occur. The releasing word (‘‘on’? is as good as any) should be given only when the lesson is over and you unfasten the chain from the dog’s collar. It will probably be quickly learned and obeyed with alacrity, espe- cially if accompanied by a wave of the hand and a sort of ‘‘all right, old boy— it’s all over’’ manner. uoljisod ut sop ey} dsoyx 0} YOIMs Jysy e pue yseoay pue sP]joo v asn J9eY,, O} SUIYD¥2) UT ‘6 Peawwh?? AND ‘WRATH? 3% When you think that the dog fully un- derstands ‘‘heel’’ in so far as it means following close behind you, and when he obeys it properly while on the short chain, commence to teach him that the order signifies also coming to the re- quired position from a distance. Ob- viously, the way to make this point plain to the pupil is to use a longer chain or cord, allowing him to move about and away from you, then ordering ‘“‘heel’’ and if need be drawing him into posi- tion with the cord. Probably one or two lessons will be sufficient for this last step; if so, dispense with the cord and drill the dog thoroughly without it. This, then, is the last of the three main accomplishments in the elemen- tary schooling of the well-mannered dog; the other two—‘‘come’’ and ‘‘lie down’’—have been already considered. Frequent rehearsal of all three has driven their meaning home beyond per- adventure of doubt. If you have been 38 TRAINING THE DOG painstaking and thorough in the work, perfecting your pupil in each lesson be- fore taking up a new one, always insist- ent upon strict obedience, but never los- ing your temper in striving to secure it, and allowing no one else to meddle in the teaching, you should now have a dog that it is a satisfaction to own. In the close companionship which the course of teaching has brought about, he has learned to look upon you more or less as an idol, a superior being at once to worship and respect. He has learned that your word is law, and his brain has been developed along definite lines of usefulness. The foundation has been laid; the ‘‘three R’s,’’ in a manner of speaking, are an accom- plished fact. “FETCH” The instinct to chase for the purpose of capture is present to a greater or less extent in every dog. Develop and ~— “HEEL’?’? AND “FETCH”? 39 guide it wisely and you have the basic principle of the accomplishment men- tioned above; let it run riot, and in many cases your dog will become a nui- sance to you and a menace to all the chickens, cats and other noisy inhabi- tants of the neighborhood. Naturally, you cannot teach a dog this trick without having some object for him to take in his mouth, and for this purpose a clean corn cob is about the best thing, for it is of convenient size and sufficiently soft so that the dog will not hesitate to take hold of it; but if one is not procurable, a pad of cloth may be substituted. Attach a_ short eord to the dog’s collar so that he can- not escape, and kneeling beside him slide your right hand over his upper jaw, thumb on one side and four fingers on the other. Take the cob in the other hand, and slightly pressing the dog’s upper lip against his teeth with the _ night hand, force him to open his mouth, 40 TRAINING THE DOG As soon as he does this place the cob gently but firmly between his jaws, re- leasing the pressure of the right hand and with the left closing the lower jaw upon the cob and holding it closed. As the cob slides in and while the dog is holding it, give the order ‘‘fetch,’’ and keep repeating it. Watch carefully for any move to eject or drop the cob and forestall it by the left hand, keeping the latter very close to or even touching the pupil’s lower jaw. After half a min- ute order ‘‘let go,’’ and take the cob from the dog’s mouth, pressing his lip against his teeth as before if he is un- willing to ‘‘open up.’’ Repeat these steps until the dog holds readily with- out attempting to throw the cob out, and lets go promptly at command even when your hands are not close enough to influence him. Then repeat them some more to be sure he fully under- stands. The next step is for the pupil to move = o, in int at SS ee ee ee PEW?’ AND) PRTCH'? | 41 about while holding the cob. When the latter is in his mouth, take hold of the cord, and rising, back away a foot or two, drawing on the cord and repeating ‘‘fetch.’’ Probably the dog will come readily enough, but he may drop the eob. Guard against this by keeping one hand near his jaws. Gradually in- crease the distance until the dog fol- lows unhesitatingly, carrying the cob. So far, so good. We must now teach the pupil to take hold of the object he is to fetch, instead of your placing it in his mouth. Hold the cob very close to and directly in front of his nose, and order ‘‘fetch.’’ Very likely he will at once open his mouth and reach for the cob; if not, slide your right hand over his upper jaw as a gentle reminder, and roll the cob in as his mouth opens. Be very patient at this stage, for a little roughness may undo much that has al- ready been accomplished. If the dog takes hold, pat and praise him; then re- 42 TRAINING THE DOG peat, holding the cob a little farther away. Keep increasing the distance until the dog must take a few steps to reach the cob; when he does this under- standingly, move off as before, making him follow by drawing on the cord while you repeat the order. And do not for- get to use the command “‘let go’’ when each repetition of the process is com- pleted. : The final step, of course, is to remove the collar cord, place the cob on the ground a few feet away, and at the or- der ‘‘fetch’’ have your pupil go to it, pick it up, and bring it to you. If the various steps described have been con- scientiously followed, this final test should be easy enough. In conclusion, I want to say a few words against the common practice of throwing a ball or some such object for the dog to chase, before he has been se- riously taught to fetch. Where this — sort of thing is frequently done the ~ 2 ee eee eHhEL?” AND) “hHTCH’” 43 puppy is very apt to conceive the idea that the whole process is a delightful game in which he as principal player is entitled to do just as he pleases with the object thrown; if he brings it back to you it is merely because he wants the pleasure of chasing it again, and not from any idea of obedience to any word you may be uttering. Bear in mind that to have any reliable quality of obedience, fetching must first of all be an acknowledgment by the dog of your authority over him. Tracuine Tricks RANTED an apt and willing pupil and a teacher whose heart is really in the work, the possibilities of teaching the dog to perform various tricks are almost unlimited. A certain amount of ingenuity on the part of the teacher, coupled with alertness in watching for and taking advantage of any peculiarities or mannerisms of the dog and developing them into regular accomplishments, will in very many eases lead to tricks which, in their originality and apparent evidence of logical reasoning, are far more effec- tive than the ordinary run of things which the average dog is taught. Not that the familiar, time-worn tricks 44 TEACHING TRICKS 45 should be neglected; on the contrary, many of them are really desirable. But it is the new ones, the unique ac- complishments, that open up the larg- est field to the ambitious trainer. It is not my purpose here—nor, in- deed, is it possible in any book of this size—to cover all the possibilities in what may be justly considered a sub- ject separate and apart from the dog’s strictly utilitarian education. But a fair selection of tricks will be described in their natural sequence, and sugges- tions made for a number of others; with these as a foundation, the rest is really dependent on teacher and pupil alone. In the great majority of cases, it is unwise to attempt teaching your dog any of the so-called tricks until he has thoroughly mastered the lessons ““come,’’ ‘‘lie down’’ and ‘‘heel.’? Ex- ceptions, of course, arise; for example, if a marked inclination to bring various objects to you is shown, it may be en- 46 TRAINING THE DOG couraged at once and developed until it becomes the commonly seen accom- plishment ‘‘fetch.’’ This, by the way, is an example of what I said above relative to taking advantage of your pupil’s peculiarities. As a _ general thing, however, don’t worry yourself and the dog by attempting anything of an ‘‘extra curriculum”’ nature, until the three essentials mentioned have been driven firmly home. “SIT UP” In taking up the actual teaching of tricks, it is as well to commence with that good old stand-by ‘‘sit up’’ or ‘“‘hee.’? Take the dog to a corner of the room—a corner where two walls form a right angle—and placing him therein, kneel or sit on the floor before him. Now take one of the dog’s front legs in each hand, holding them near his shoulders so as to avoid all possibility of his twisting away from you, and back TEACHING TRICKS 47 him into the corner, at the same time’ raising his front feet well off the floor. In a moment you will see the first ad- vantage of the right angle formed by the room walls. As you press your pupil backward he will naturally at- tempt to keep on his hind feet, prob- ably stepping back in the effort to pre- serve his balance; but the wall soon ef- fectually checks further retreat and makes it possible for you to raise the dog’s body into the desired vertical position by continuing the backward and upward pressure. The dog is now standing on his hind legs literally ‘‘with his back to the _ wall,” probably trying to step still fur- ther away from you, but making no headway in the attempt. Hold him thus a moment, and if he does not settle down into a crouching posture with his hind legs under him in a natural posi- tion, shift both his front legs to one hand and with the other draw the re- 48 TRAINING THE DOG calcitrant hind feet into the required position. It is essential that you insist on this matter of the proper placing of the legs; little or no success will be at- tained teaching a dog to sit up unless he feels that his hind feet are in such a position that they will support his body in a state of balance. While placing the feet as described, exert a gradual down- ward pressure with the upper hand— you will see at once how to bring about the desired result—and having thus brought the dog into a more or less close approximation of the correct ‘‘sit up”’ position, keep repeating the appropriate order while you hold him there. Perhaps at about this stage of the proceedings your pupil will be seized with a sudden weakness of the spine, and ‘‘cave in’? most dejectedly. In this event the second advantage of the : corner position becomes apparent: it is manifestly impossible for the dog to “‘cave’’ in more than one direction (for- Sn ee SE ee ee et Ce ee =, _e ae = eae tom ae THACHING TRICKS 49 ward), and this tendency you can readily check. _ The proper position for the front feet of a dog that is ‘‘begging’’ is forward and up at an angle of perhaps forty-five degrees. As soon as the pupil reaches that stage of the trick in which he readily ‘‘squats’’ straight-backed in the corner, with hind legs solidly under him, gradually release your hold on his fore shoulders and raise his front paws to the position mentioned, keeping one hand under them to be sure they are not lowered. When your judgment tells you that the dog has a pretty clear idea of what “sit up’’ means, try and induce him to do it without your helping him up. Do this in the corner, for he has learned the supporting value of the two walls and they give him confidence. Very often you will find it helpful at this point to motion him up with the hand, hold- ing it above him and snapping your 50 TRAINING THE DOG fingers to attract his attention upward while you give the command. It is well, too, to stand up yourself now, of course bending over enough so as to be close to the dog and yet above him. It is impossible to set any fixed period at the end of which you can dispense with the corner of the room and perfect the trick without the aid of artificial support. Some dogs will catch the idea of the lesson in two or three trials, while others may need a week. The only sure guide in the matter is to study the particular case in hand and follow your own judgment. When the step is finally taken, do not expect too much of the dog at first. Steady him with both hands when he has his first experi- ence in sitting up without the wall sup- port, for in nine cases out of ten he will have difficulty in keeping his balance unaided. Do not prolong these lessons unduly. Remember that sitting up is an un- bat) TEACHING TRICKS 51 natural posture for any dog, and is tir- ing especially to a half-grown puppy. Let your pupil rest frequently, and the mutual results will be better. “JUMP” This is another well-known trick, de- cidedly worth while. Take a cane or some similar stick, and kneeling, lay it flat on the floor before the dog. Tell him to ‘‘jump,’’ at the same time snap- ping your fingers or using’ some such means to induce him to step over the stick. If he tries to go around the end of it, change your position so that a wall of the room will make such an eva- sion impossible. When the dog crosses the cane, make him reverse the maneu- ver, and repeat the lesson (without rais- ing the stick) until the pupil shows no hesitation in obeying. The next step is to raise the cane an inch or two, repeating ‘‘jump’’ and gradually increasing the height until the 52 TRAINING THE DOG dog must actually jump to clear it. Watch carefully lest he now try to go under the cane, and do not at any time require him to perform the trick unless the footing is secure enough to prevent a slip and possible fall when landing after the jump. Never make a dog jump on a smooth, bare floor where he may be injured or at least frightened by slipping. When the dog clears the stick readily at all reasonable heights, it is an easy matter to teach him to jump through your bowed arms, over your extended foot, ete. “SHAKE HANDS” Many dogs learn this virtually by themselves; they get into the habit of pawing at you to attract your attention, and readily learn to extend a front foot at command. For those which do not pick up the idea by themselves, however, Se a eS ee — THACHING TRICKS D3 the following method of teaching the trick is recommended. Kneel on the floor or sit in a low chair, and have the dog close in front of you; if he sits down, so much the bet- ter. Hold out one hand, open and palm up, and order ‘‘ Shake hands.’’ If your pupil makes no effort to comply, tap the toes of his right front foot sharply with your knuckles. This will cause him to raise that foot at once. The instant he does so, take it firmly but not roughly in your hand, drawing it toward you to the desire position, and holding it there a few moments while you repeat the or- der. Then release the paw and try again. As a usual thing, two or three lessons of moderate duration will suffice to fix this trick quite firmly in the dog’s mind, and only practice will be needed to per- fect it. A variation not often seen is to have the dog, when he has ‘‘shaken 54 TRAINING THE DOG hands’’ with one paw, repeat the polite- ness with the other, in response to some such phrase as ‘‘Now the other one.’’ This is very easily taught by following the methods used in teaching the trick in its original form. “SPEAK” I hesitate somewhat to include this trick in the list of a well-mannered ca- nine’s accomplishments, for the reason that most dogs are prone to be quite — noisy enough without any encourage- ment from their masters. But as there are many households where a few barks more or less make no material differ- ence, I will give an easy method of teach- ing to ‘‘speak,’’ and you may include or omit the stunt as your individual prefer- ence suggests. The majority of real, healthy dogs seem to have an almost instinctive tend- ency to become interested if not ac- tually excited when they hear the drawn- TEACHING TRICKS 5D out, sibilant sound of §-s-s-s-s. Why this is I’m sure I do not know, unless it be that the many generations of con- scienceless men and boys who have em- ployed the delightfully exciting expres- sion ‘‘S-s-sic ’em,’’ to encourage the pursuit of sundry cats, rats and tramps, have left their impress on dogdom in toto. At any rate, make use of this psy- chological fact in teaching your dog to ‘“speak,’’? by prolonging the S-s-s and generally acting so as to excite the dog a bit, while still holding his attention. If this does not elicit a response, essay to bark a little yourself, immediately thereafter uttering the word ‘‘Speak.’’ Do not bark too ferociously or too nat- urally, else the pupil, if somewhat small and timid, may run away and hide un- der the bed in the spare room on the third floor. Make your bark short and sharp, and as barking is contagious, the dog will be quite sure to follow suit ere long. 56 TRAINING THE DOG And now just a few words in regard to rewards for proficiency in perform- ing tricks. About 499 people out of 500 seem to think that a lump of sugar or some such stuff is absolutely necessary to induce Terry or Waldemar to go through his paces. It’s not. A trick, no matter how absurd it may be, should be considered by the dog as just as much a matter of obedience pure and simple as anything else you tell him to do. In some cases (I hesitate to say this for fear the excuse may be too often used) a tid-bit may be offered to cure a bad ease of the sulks, but for a general work- ing rule limit your reward to a pat and a few words of praise. Thus will your dog be dependable when required to ‘‘show off,’’ and you will not have to keep on hand a box of fancy crackers or a pound of chocolate creams for his especial benefit. VI Apvancep Lxssons HEN your dog has thoroughly mastered the lessons described in the preceding chapters, he may be considered to have far better than an average canine education. He has learned enough to be an excellent and dependable companion, and a reason- ably good trick performer. You can rest on your laurels, in a manner of speaking, and not be disturbed by find- ing that some of them are thorns; or you can enter the dog in a ‘‘post-grad- uate’’ course, and develop him still fur- ther. We have all seen dogs that ap- parently show remarkable intelligence and reasoning powers in the perform- ance of some feat, but—without in any way insinuating that a dog is incapable 57 pipe 58 TRAINING THE DOG of actual reasoning—the accomplish- ment is really the result of careful and thorough training. Much of this ad- vanced work must depend on the in- dividual trainer, for the possibilities for new tricks and useful accomplishments differ somewhat in every case. But I have endeavored to set down in the fol- lowing pages some suggestions which will be of value, not only in the feats. specifically described, but also in indi- cating lines along which you, with your particular dog, may expand and de- velop as opportunity presents itself. If you are fortunate in owning a really bright animal, there is almost no limit to the number of his possible ac- complishments, useful as well as amus- ing. For example, a dog that has been properly taught to ‘‘lie down’’ readily learns to guard various things dur- ing his master’s temporary absence. Again, many different breeds can be taught to herd sheep or cattle success- ADVANCED LESSONS o9 fully. But it is in the matter of tricks that the average owner will find the greatest opportunity for advanced work, and in this chapter are given some which have not been previously con- sidered because they presuppose a good ‘‘srammar school’’ foundation already laid. “STAND UP” This trick, in which the dog stands erect upon his hind feet, should not be attempted until he has attained his full strength, for it calls for considerable muscular exertion. The first step is to take the pupil’s front paws in your hands and raise him to the desired position, while you reit- erate the order. At first it will be nec- essary to steady the dog carefully so that he will not lose his balance, but as he gains confidence and a knowledge of what is wanted he will learn to keep his own equilibrium. 60 TRAINING THE DOG As the lessons progress, gradually cease taking hold of the front paws as described, and endeavor to coax the dog to assume the erect posture unaided. Hold your hand over his head, snapping the fingers to attract his attention to it, and urging him to rise. Occasionally, encouragement may be given by a morsel of food held in the fingers above the dog, but remember that this is to be done only during the early lessons, to urge the dog to attempt a feat for which he lacks confidence. When the trick is learned, it must be performed from a sense of obedience. “WALTZ” This is a development of ‘‘stand up,’’ and while the performer cannot be ex- pected to follow literally the steps of a waltz, yet he should circle about on his hind legs in a manner very suggestive of the real thing. | Bring the dog to ‘‘stand up,’’ then ADVANCED LESSONS 61 eircle about him while you repeat ““Waltz.’’? Probably he will at first drop on all fours and follow you. If so, stop at once, make him ‘‘stand up,’’ and keep closer to him as you circle; hold one hand above him, snapping the fingers as before. As soon as the dog takes even only one or two steps in the desired way, praise him lavishly. Then try again and again until he fully un- derstands. This ‘‘waltz’’ trick may be varied in many ways, both as to the actions of the dog and in the words used in the order. I know one terrier which, in response to his master’s ‘‘Show us how Maud Allan dances, Jack,’’ gyrates about in a man- ner very suggestive of that famous danseuse’s actions on the stage. In this case, the words used in teaching the trick were ‘‘Maud Allan,’’ and the rest was added later merely for effect. Jack, of course, does not know the mean- ing of the whole sentence, but he has 62 TRAINING THE DOG learned to listen closely to his master’s voice, and takes his cue from the words ‘‘Maud Allan.’’ Very amusing and astonishing results can be obtained by this method of ‘‘pad- ding’’ the words a dog knows with phrases which, though actually meaning nothing to him, make it seem to the un- initiated onlooker that he is gifted with a marvelous knowledge of the English language. Remember the _ principle: Two or three words only are the dog’s cue. At first they should be somewhat emphasized, and care must be taken not to add too much else at a time. Speak clearly and distinctly, and take pains to hold the dog’s attention closely. “SING” With the majority of dogs there is some particular note of music which, if repeated many times, so ‘‘gets on their nerves’’ that they will break forth into “Half a dog high, a dog and a half long, and three dogs in the matter of brains” The rough-and-ready Scotch terrier is ideal for the country place ADVANCED LESSONS 63 soulful if not always melodious yowling. This note varies with individual dogs, but it can usually be ascertained by shut- ting the dog in a room where there is a piano and repeatedly striking the dif- ferent keys (with the loud pedal on) un- til the psychological one is discovered. Then keep the ‘‘singer’’ at work by oc- -easionally striking the note, while you repeat the chosen order until he under- stands it. If the piano elicits no response, try a violin, cornet, or whatever instrument may be your favorite. This in turn failing, fall back on your own voice, yowling as much like a dog as may be, and interlarding the performance with exhortations to the dog to ‘‘sing’’ also. It is just as well not to essay this pro- cedure in the vicinity of neighbors or _ the police, else you may be misunder- stood and lodged in jail or an institu- tion for the feeble-minded. 64 TRAINING THE DOG “LAWYER” Kneel beside the dog, and make him lie down on his side. Then take his feet and roll him over so that he lies on the other side; let him lie there a moment, then roll him back again. Repeat this ad mfinitum, while you order ‘‘ Lawyer ao? When the dog lies down, rolls over and back again by himself, begin to add words to the command, as suggested un- der ‘‘ Waltz,’’ until you have some such sentence as, ‘‘Listen, boy; what does a lawyer do?’’ Visitors seeing the trick for the first time are sure to ask what the connection is between the dog’s ac- tions and a lawyer’s, whereupon you naively reply: ‘‘ ‘What does a lawyer do?’ Why, he les first on one side and then on the other.”’ “SHUT THE DOOR” This is another trick that is quite ef- fective in its impression on strangers, as ADVANCED LESSONS 65 well as useful under ordinary circum- stances. The dog which has been taught to ‘‘stand up’”’ and ‘‘waltz’’ should learn it readily, for all he has to do is to rise on his hind legs, place his front paws against the open door, and walk forward as his weight closes it. To teach the trick, hold the door with one hand to prevent its closing too rapidly, and with the other get the dog into the desired position by tapping the door at the place where he is to put his front paws. Then let the door close slowly, while the dog follows on his hind legs. VII Tur ALt-’rounD Doe HE all-’round dog—the general- purpose fellow who is, after all, about the best canine companion a red- blooded man, woman or child can have —is not a product of large cities. His place is in the country, where there are vermin to be destroyed, walks and tramps afield to be taken, streams and ponds to be swum in, and room to breathe and run and play as a dog should. Give any normal pup of active nature these blessings, and he will be in a fair way to becoming an all-’round dog. Encourage and guide him among them, and his development is assured. Let us first consider accustoming the dog to taking to the water. Of course, 66 7 THE ALL-’ROUND DOG 67 he is, unlike human beings, endowed with an instinctive knowledge of how to swim, but if inexperienced he is prob- ably afraid of deep water. To over- come this fear, never throw him bodily © into the pond, under the mistaken notion that such is the best way to accustom a dog to water; think what the result would be on yourself were you in the dog’s place. Let the dog become accustomed to swimming gradually. Go on a warm day to where the bank shelves off grad- ually, wade into the shallow water a little way, and encourage the dog to fol- low. Never lose patience and drag him in. Arouse his interest and enthusiasm by a sort of ‘‘come-on-in-the-water’s- fine’’ attitude; throw in sticks and peb- bles for him to chase. A few days of this will overcome any fear he may have had, provided no abrupt change is made from a wading to a swimming depth. Do not at first give the dog the im- ge 68 TRAINING THE DOG pression that entering the water is some- thing he must do as a matter of duty; endeavor to show him that it is all for fun, and he will soon learn to enjoy swimming for the sake of its novelty and the relief it affords him in hot weather. Let us turn now to the destruction of rats, mice and such vermin, a thing which is instinctive in nearly all dogs, especially the various breeds of terrier. There is nothing particular which can be done to develop such a propensity, ex- cept a general policy of encouragement and frequent opportunities, but it should be borne in mind that some in- dividuals do not show any aptitude as vermin destroyers until they are two or three years old; then it all comes to them suddenly. It is well to start the rodent-hunting career of a young dog with very small game. If in his inexperience he tackles a battle-scarred old warrior rat, the THE ALL-’ROUND DOG 69 chances are that the results will dis- courage him from similar efforts for some time to come, for be it known that a rat can fight like ‘‘all possessed.’’ For the sake of the appearance of the lawn, it is not well to encourage your dog to promiscuous digging for ground moles, but if he shows any propensity for hunting these pests you may be able to teach him to catch them with neat- ness and dispatch. Moles are active usually in mid-morning and again in the afternoon, and if at such times you ap- proach a fresh burrow quietly, without jarring the ground with your footfalls, you will probably see the stirring of the turf which indicates where the tunnel is being extended. Have in your hand a short spade or some similar imple- ment, and let the dog follow at heel. Directly below where the surface of the soil is stirring is the mole, busily dig- ging and unconscious of your stealthy approach. You can get within a couple 70 TRAINING THE DOG of feet without disturbing him; then crush down the tunnel roof immediately behind him with your foot to prevent a retreat, simultaneously driving in the spade and unearthing the mole. Once on the surface, he will be an easy prey for the dog. Now, the point of the foregoing is this: If your dog is keen and observ- ant, he will realize that the thing to do is to hunt for the place where the mole is actually working, approach carefully, and then dig right in in a hurry. Knowing these things, he may learn to do them alone and unaided. I have known several dogs that were most suc- cessful at this style of hunting, and their actions while stalking some un- suspecting ‘‘mound-builder’’ were most conclusive proof of the adaptability of the canine mind. One of these dogs worked it out to such a fine point that he disturbed the turf but little in un- earthing a mole. He would creep to THE ALL-’"ROUND DOG 71 within striking distance, poise himself for an upward spring, and come down with fore feet and muzzle so unerringly on top of the ‘‘varmint’’ that the latter was usually disabled by the first shock. VIII Tur CHOICE oF A BREED ELECTING a dog for someone you do not know is like buying a hat, a cane or a suit of clothes for a person with whose age, physical make-up and personal idiosyncrasies you are un- familiar: the fit may not be good. To earry the simile farther, there are al- most as many sizes and complexions of dogs as of clothes, hats or canes, and as everyone admits that de gustibus non disputandum est, I will not attempt in this chapter to do more than indicate some of the chief characteristics of a number of the breeds which have proven satisfactory for the average person who wants a real dog—a dog which shall be 72 THE CHOICE OF A BREED 73 a good and able-bodied companion, especially about the suburban or coun- try home. THE AIREDALE Half a century or more ago there was evolved in Yorkshire a type of dog that filled a long-felt want in the hearts of the sport-loving Britons of that Mid- land county. They needed a brainy animal that should be big and dead game, hardy and absolutely without fear of water or cold, a good watch-dog and a keen general-purpose hunter, for the valley of the Aire is a region of hills and rushing streams, the natural abode of foxes, otters, badgers and other lesser vermin galore. It was hard to find a breed that could satisfactorily meet all those requirements, so the Yorkshiremen determined to invent one, and the successful result of their ex- periments has, with some slight modi- fications of conformation, come down to 74 TRAINING THE DOG us as the Airedale of the present day— the largest terrier. The Airedale’s ancestry is, and prob- ably always will be, more or less a mat- ter of conjecture. But the chances are that he was originally a cross between a grizzle-and-tan terrier that used to be common in Yorkshire, and the otter- hound, the latter being a powerful dog somewhat of the bloodhound type, but wire-coated and almost as much at home in the water as out of it. Probably there were also traces of breeds such as the bull terrier, collie, Bedlington, fox terrier and perhaps others. But however uncertain may be his early lineage, there is absolutely no doubt that the Airedale of to-day is a grand dog, strong, courageous, intelli- gent and with a disposition that for gen- eral attractiveness is surpassed by those of few other breeds. He will hunt any- thing from a mouse to a grizzly bear; he will herd sheep or do parlor tricks for THE CHOICE OF A BREED 75 the entertainment of visitors. He is obedient and cheerful, and takes to the water like a muskrat. He will be a safe and gentle playmate for the children, or a terror to tramps and night prowlers in general. He makes an ideal compan- ion and friend, for he has the true ter- rier’s spirit of ‘‘get up and go,’’ com- bined with a certain dignity and depend- ability that are all his own. A good Airedale doesn’t look for trouble, but woe be unto any dog that tries to impose upon him, for he knows not the meaning of the word ‘‘quit.’’ He is of the prac- tical all-around type and ‘‘will do any- thing that any other dog can do and then lick the other dog.’’ There is no record of the Airedale ever having been called beautiful in an es- thetic sense. But there is about him an appearance of compactness and sym- metry, of straight-limbed and capable strength, that cannot but excite admira- tion. ‘To see him in action with all the 76 TRAINING THE DOG grace of his tense muscles in perfect play and watch the pound of well-placed pads is to realize that he’s a real dog. To know him well is to like him, for no dog could have built up such a reputa- tion as the Airedale now enjoys unless his general qualities were of the highest order. The breed as now accepted by the ken- nel associations is somewhat heavier than in the days when it was unknown outside of the Midlands. A good speci- men should weigh in the neighborhood of forty-five pounds and be about as tall as an ordinary Llewellyn setter. The body is short, with well-arched ribs and deep but narrow chest, giving plenty of room for the lungs. The shoulders are sloping and their every line is indicative of sup- ple power; fore legs perfectly straight and the feet compact and well padded. The hind legs should be strongly mus- eled, but by no means ‘‘bunchy.’’ Skull THE CHOICE OF A BREED 77 wide, but rather flat, with small, dark eyes and little V-shaped ears set rather high. The muzzle is long, strong and firm and the teeth large. The Airedale is a wire-coated dog, with hard, stiff hair that is about an inch long, except on the head, where it is shorter than elsewhere. Beneath this outer protecting coat there is a warm underbody of soft, thick wool. His color is a uniform deep tan all over, with the exception of a patch of black or dark gray across the back like a saddle. The double coat was a strong asset to the Airedale in the sort of life for which his originators intended him, for itis a great protection against water, cold, briars and teeth. He will jump into creek or pond, swim across, take a couple of shakes and a roll in the grass when he comes out, and be dry again. Similarly, he will come through a long tramp or hunt in the woods and tangled thickets 78 TRAINING THE DOG without a scratch from thorn or branch, and be ready to start right out and do the same thing over again. In spite of his large size, the Airedale is a true terrier and readily adapts him- self to any climate and any task. He has hauled sledges in Alaska, and hunted mountain lions in the Rockies and erim- inals in Europe. He will tackle a wild- eat in a Florida savanna just as eagerly as he will snap a mouse or rat in the feed room of your stable. He has the constitution of a piece of armor-plate and the heart of a gentleman. The place for him is in the country, for first, last and always, the typical Airedale is ‘“all dog.’’ THE IRISH TERRIER In many respects not unlike the Aire- dale, the Irish terrier has the same rough, wiry coat, much of the hardihood, and almost if not quite the intelligence of his larger cousin. In disposition, ae sae i i i The Airedale is a good all-round dog with no limitations BREE PLL LEELA LEE! LEE ASAE. sor hee DoT einen A good cocker spaniel is compact in build and very intelligent THE CHOICE OF A BREED 79 however, he is more of a true terrier, and usually lacks the dignified, self- contained poise of the Airedale. He is more excitable, more quick and ““snappy’’ in his actions, more inclined to bristle up to other dogs on the look- out for trouble. But for all that he isa highly desirable dog, especially for those who do not care for the large size of the Airedale. : A good Irish terrier, in addition to being about two-thirds the size, is some- what more lightly built than an Airedale. His coat is of proportionally the same length, tan in color, without any gray saddle or other markings of different color. The jaws are strong though not heavy, and were his hair to be cut short he would show general lines quite like those of the fox terrier. THE DACHSHUND _ Half a dog high, a dog and a half long, and three dogs in the matter of brains— 80 TRAINING THE DOG that is the dachshund. From the tip of his rat tail to the point of his long, strong muzzle he is a most likable little fellow, and the seeker after a small, smooth-coated dog that will be thor- oughly companionable and able to ‘stand the racket’’ may seek a long time _ before he will discover a breed that will better meet all his requirements. On the part of perhaps a large ma- jority of the people of this country there is a seemingly irresistible impulse to con- sider the dachshund as a sort of freak— a grotesque caricature of a dog whose chief use in life is to serve as the butt of time-honored and worn-out jokes con- cerning his resemblance to sausages, stovepipes and various other inanimate objects which are endowed with the maximum of length combined with the minimum of height. True, the small chap of the satiny coat and the bowed legs is not designed on the graceful lines of a greyhound, for example, but that in THE CHOICE OF A BREED 81 no wise affects the sterling qualities which are his and which have endeared him to all who are fortunate enough to have come to know him well. Indeed, I am not sure but that this same curious conformation, this apparent lack of har- mony between the dachshund’s compo- nent parts, constitutes one of his strong assets; for it makes all the more attrac- tive—and often amusing—his bright, ‘all dog’? ways. But setting aside the general appear- ance of the breed, which should be, after all, a comparatively unimportant factor in the choice of a dog, let us consider a typical specimen more in detail. Exam- ine him closely as he stands before you, firmly planted on those short, heavily muscled legs and powerful feet which _ serve him so well in his natural work, that of ‘‘going to earth’’ after vermin of various sorts. Did you ever see a finer head on any dog? Notice the abun- dance of brain space in the well-domed 82 TRAINING THE DOG skull; see how strong and clean-cut the jaws are, how well the long, silky ears are set on. Speak quietly to him and he will turn to you a pair of large, dark hazel eyes full of intelligence and gentle- manly inquiry, talking as plainly as if their owner could speak and were asking what you required of him. Then, as he half turns away and takes a step or two, look at the wonderful depth of chest, the column-like neck and the smooth, grace- ful curves of the back and tail. Surely — here is a dog to tie to, and one whose possession will yield the keenest satis- faction. You can teach a dachshund anything that a dog of his size can reasonably be expected to do and some things that those who are unfamiliar with the breed would consider quite impossible. For example, one would scarcely expect one of these short-legged fellows to develop into a first class coach dog, and yet I know of one which, without apparent fa- THE CHOICE OF A BREED 83 tigue, will follow his master’s carriage for miles, running between the front wheels at the horse’s very heels in the most approved coach dog style and thor- oughly enjoying the experience. The person who desires a trick dog will find in the dachshund a very apt pupil, for besides being naturally bright the ma- jority of them are very tractable and willing to learn. Another quality which makes these dogs especially well suited to the coun- try place is their ability as vermin destroyers. This has already been alluded to, but it will bear amplification. If there are rats or mice about your place—and few homes are entirely free from these pests—a dachshund will _ make their lives exceedingly hazardous and exciting, to put it mildly. One finely bred dog which came under my notice would crouch sometimes for fifteen or twenty minutes at a time be- side a mouse or rat hole, perfectly mo- 84 TRAINING THE DOG tionless save for a slight quivering of his muscles. When the rodent tenta- tively thrust his nose out from his re- treat the dog, instead of making a futile dash and digging madly at the hole into which his intended victim had of course disappeared again at the first hostile motion, would hold his position until the mouse was well away from its refuge; then a sudden bound with nose and fore paws together generally resulted in an- — other death in the rodent family. And finally, let us consider the dachs- hund from the standpoint of the man, woman or child who wants a bright, cheerful companion and_ playfellow about the house or grounds or on walks or drives. Here, if anywhere, the breed can be strongly recommended, though, of course, there are individual excep- tions the same as with any other kind of dog. It makes no difference whether you want a romp in the evening or THE CHOICE OF A BREED 85 prefer merely to sit before the open wood fire; you may go for a long tramp or simply visit the flower garden to see how it is progressing; the weather may be hot or cold, wet or dry; whatever may be the requirements of the moment, your dachshund will be always there and al- ways ready. A few points to be looked for in a well-bred dachshund may be of some value to the intending purchaser who is unfamiliar with the breed. Avoid the dog which shows any tendency toward coarseness of appearance, such as heavy, short ears, badly curved tail, thick hair without gloss, ete. As re- gards size, there is considerable latitude of choice, from the light-weight dog of sixteen pounds to the heavy-weight of perhaps twenty-five. The color may be red or yellowish red in the single- colored specimens, and brown, deep black or gray, each with tan spots over eyes, on sides of jaws and lower lips, 86 TRAINING THE DOG breast, insides of legs and under tail, in the two-colored. THE SCOTCH TERRIER This is another of the rough-coated terriers, but, unlike the two varieties already mentioned, his conformation is perhaps more suggestive of a dachshund than a true terrier. His legs are short and very strong, body heavy, ears ‘‘pricked,’’? and tail long. In color he is a dark iron gray—almost black—and the general impression he makes is that of an extremely intelligent, powerful, eapable dog that can stand unlimited hard work under all conditions and come out with tail wagging and ready for more. Indeed, the Scotchman is about as good a dog as any reasonable person could ask. True, he has not the statuesque grandeur of a Great Dane, nor the beautiful coat and grace of a collie; but he has points of recommenda- THE CHOICE OF A BREED 87 tion in which these breeds are lacking. True to his appearance, a Scotch terrier is the embodiment of hardiness, intelli- gence and reliability. He readily adapts himself to learning tricks, makes an ideal companion, and is strong and cou- rageous enough to make a very adequate guardian and watchdog. His one draw- back is that in this country he is com- paratively rare, and it is often difficult to obtain a good specimen without pay- ing a rather stiff price. It is to be hoped, however, that the increasing popularity of rough-and-ready dogs will result in the breed becoming more com- mon, for the Scotch terrier deserves to be better and more widely known. THE COCKER SPANIEL Although originally a hunting dog— indeed, his name is derived from his usefulness in woodcock shooting—the cocker spaniel of to-day is esteemed rather for his bright, attractive ways 88 TRAINING THE DOG and general desirable qualities than for his adaptability to field. sports. His popularity is well deserved, for in addi- tion to being an excellent all-around dog, his silky, glossy coat is equaled in beauty by that of scarcely any other breed of dog. Generally speaking, the cocker is more docile and quiet than any of the breeds previously considered, although he is by no means deficient in courage. Not be- ing a terrier, he is not a natural-born ratter, though even to this there are many individual exceptions. He is in- telligent and learns readily, and his tractability renders him an excellent dog for an inexperienced trainer. Some of the points to be looked for in a good specimen are: Head, well de- veloped and broad, clean cut in outline, with large, full but not ‘‘pop’’ eyes, and low-set ears with long, silky hair. The body should be comparatively short and compact, muscular, and set on rather THE CHOICE OF A BREED 89 short, strong legs. The coat may be black, red, liver, and combinations; in texture, straight or slightly waved, silky, dense, and well ‘‘feathered’’ like a setter. The general impression is that of a wide-awake little dog, merry, sturdy and enduring. 3 THE ENGLISH SETTER Primarily, setters are-of course hunt- ing dogs, and in that capacity they find their most congenial and successful oc- cupation. But there is no reason why, with ordinary care and an occasional long run in the woods and fields, an English setter should not be absolutely healthy and a source of constant satis- faction to his owner, even though the latter may lack the opportunity or in- clination to go shooting. It is not the case, as many people seem to believe, that a dog which has been trained and used for actual field work on birds is in any degree spoiled for ordinary life 90 TRAINING THE DOG about the home. Among the most satis- factory and likable dogs I have ever known were setters which during the shooting season were used actively in the field, and throughout the balance of the year filled most acceptably the place of the ordinary general purpose dog. The character of a good specimen of the breed leaves little or nothing to be desired; he is full of intelligence and | common sense, learns readily, has a kindly though courageous disposition that makes him an ideal dog about the place or on walks and tramps afield, and forms very strong attachments to his master and other persons with whom he may come in frequent contact. In fact, I doubt if there is any other breed that develops a stronger and truer love for man, or more quickly appreciates and repays wise, kindly treatment. As a watchdog the English setter ranks high, and his reliability of dis- position makes him a safe companion THE CHOICE OF A BREED 91 for children. There is about him noth- ing of that semi-treacherous meanness which makes certain other breeds so undesirable, and his general air of big- heartedness is sure to endear him to all who can recognize a good dog when they see one. The English setter yields to none in symmetry and grace of outline, beauty. of coat and attractive expression. His head should be long and with a pro- nounced ‘‘stop,’’ as the break in profile at the eyes is termed. The skull is broad and shows plenty of brain room; ears of moderate length, set on low and hanging close to the cheeks. The eyes should be bright and kindly in expres- sion, of good size, and dark hazel in color. Nothing detracts more from the pleasing effect of the head than light- colored eyes. ‘The muzzle is quite deep, long from the stop to the point of the nose, and rather square, while the jaws are of equal length. The body should 92 TRAINING THE DOG be moderately long, loins wide, strong and slightly arched, and the chest deep. The feet are very compact and well padded, and the legs strong. The tail is, or should be, one of the setter’s most beautiful adornments. A good speci- men will carry his tail straight from where it leaves the body, for a curve in any direction is objectionable. It is of moderate length and bears that long, silken ‘‘flag’’ or ‘‘feather’’ which, to my mind, is the most striking single feature of the dog’s appearance. There is also a pronounced ‘‘feather’’ on the backs of the front and hind legs, but nowhere on the dog should the hair show any marked tendency to curl, although a slight waviness is permissible. The color and markings of English setters vary considerably with the dif- ferent strains, and even dogs of the same litter frequently differ widely in these respects. The generally accepted combinations of color are as follows: THE CHOICE OF A BREED 93 white and black, white and lemon, white and liver, white and orange, and tri- color, or white, tan and black. The darker color may be in patches of greater or less size, or in tiny spots which give the dog a flecked appearance. All of these combinations look well, so the intending purchaser has to consult merely his individual preference in the matter. In the case of the light-colored dogs perhaps a slight amount of extra care is required to keep their coats look- ing well. If you cannot keep a setter in the country, or at least in a small town where the open country is close enough to be available for exercising purposes, do not try to keep one at all. A city is no place for these large, open-air dogs, and to compel one to pass his days within the gloomy confines of stone and plaster blocks is but a refined form of actual cruelty. 94 TRAINING THE DOG Here, then, are six types of dog that I consider to be among the best for the sort of people to whom this book is ad- dressed. Of course there are others, but they have little place here. I have purposely avoided the toy breeds, the purely hunting dogs, a few universally known breeds such as the fox terrier, and some others which, although lend- ing themselves fairly well to the sort of training advocated in this book, have certain qualities which preclude unquali- fied recommendation. 1D.¢ THE Doe’s QuaRTERS ENERALLY speaking, you can hardly give a normally healthy, sound dog of almost any breed too much fresh air and outdoors. Some of the toy kinds, it is true, and many of those pampered pets that are bundled up in sweaters, boots and goggles before be- ing taken out for an airing, can prob- ably exist in a hothouse atmosphere in- definitely, but they are hardly dogs within the present meaning of the word. The real dog craves the open air, and if you live in the country you will do | well to provide him with suitable quar- ters outdoors where he may be left fre- quently if not habitually. Briefly, the ideal outdoor quarters should consist of a dry, sheltered ken- 95 96 TRAINING THE DOG nel surrounded by a yard of size propor- tionate to that of the dog. One of the best and warmest kennels consists of a barrel laid on its side, half filled with clean straw or hay, and provided with an adequate covering to keep out snow and rain. It is not picturesque, but in- expensive and comfortable. Its chief value lies in its warmth, for the shape is such that the dog unavoidably | snuggles down in the center in the straw, and the heat of his body has to cover only a limited space. This princi- ple can of course be applied in the mak- ing of a more pretentious kennel, but, especially in cases where it is advisable that the dog be kept in the stable or other outbuilding, the barrel pure and simple is quite satisfactory. It is far preferable that a dog be kept in a yard than that he be chained, espe- cially when he must be confined for con- siderable periods. A collar and chain are bound to be more or less of a drag THE DOG’S QUARTERS 97 on him, but if for any reason a yard cannot be supplied, the chain may be fastened to a sliding ring slipped over a long, strong wire attached to two stakes in the ground, thus making a sort of ‘‘trolley’’ whereby the dog can get considerable exercise. If a yard is feasible, it should be not less than twenty by twenty feet—larger if pos- sible—and so built that there is no pos- sibility of the dog escaping from it. A good method of construction is to set in two-by-four posts every ten feet, con- nect their bases with ten-inch boards placed on edge and sunk flush with the ground to prevent the dog digging un- der them, and surround the whole with the heaviest grade of poultry wire, five feet high, stapling it firmly to boards as well as posts. Make provision for a gate at one corner of the yard, and at the top of each post place a bracket in such a way that a strip of eighteen-inch poultry wire may be run entirely around 98 | TRAINING THE DOG the top of the yard, projecting inward horizontally or with a slight upward slant, so as to form an efficient barrier against the dog climbing up the side of the yard as if on a ladder and escaping over the top. For large, powerful dogs, one of the many makes of woven animal fencing should be used in place of the poultry wire. Although, as I have said, outdoor quarters are the best for the majority of hardy dogs even during quite severe weather, there are very many cases where, for good and sufficient reasons, it is desirable that the dog be kept in the house. Here a regular sleeping place should always be provided for him, such as a straw-filled box or an old, soft rug in some out-of-the-way corner. Be careful not to have it in a drafty place, for dogs that have become ac- customed to spending a large part of their time indoors are more susceptible to catching cold than are their open-air THE DOG’S QUARTERS 99 brothers. Take care, too, not to require your dog to spend some of his nights indoors and some outside; the change from warmth to cold would be too rad- ical a one for him to undergo without risk. The straw or hay in kennel or box should be renewed once a week, and especially during cold weather be sure that the supply is abundant so that the dog may make a sort of nest init. In spring, summer and early fall at least a few fleas are almost sure to be pres- ent, but their numbers can be kept within bounds by changing the bedding, sifting naphthaline flakes into it, and washing the dog once or twice a week with a good carbolic soap. Finally, remember that dampness, _ drafts (a real wind does little harm— it’s the drafts that are dangerous) and dirt are the three prime things that must not be tolerated in a dog’s quar- ters. | x GENERAL CARE RDINARILY sound dogs that are not so finely bred as to be delicate are surprisingly free from ailments if they have access to exercise, proper food and a constant supply of good drinking water. Let us consider these requirements in turn. | First as to exercise. Precisely as in the case of children, this is essential to good appetite, good spirits, and a sturdy, healthy growth. Any active dog ought to have a half-hour’s freedom to run about every day in the year, with a longer period whenever possible. This should not be given, however, if it means the dog’s going about without any supervision on your part. Unless 100 GENERAL CARE 101 you can go with him, or at least keep an eye on his activities, he is more than apt to fall into the decidedly harmful practice of spending his period of free- dom in loafing about the street or the neighbors’ back yards, eventually get- ting himself, you and the neighbors into mutual difficulties. In the out-and-out country, or on places where the sur- rounding grounds are extensive, the case is of course different, though even here you will do well to have a general idea of where the dog is at any time. On the other hand, don’t overdo the matter of exercise and run the dog un- til he is ready to drop. ‘Take care, too, not to exercise him too violently in warm weather, for here again he is much like a person in the harmful re- sults that may follow. The question of proper food is too often disregarded by dog owners. A dog’s digestive apparatus is a very deli- 102 TRAINING THE DOG cate piece of machinery, seldom giving trouble when well cared for, but sub- ject to serious disorders if neglected. Wholesome, nourishing food, given at regular intervals, is absolutely essential to continued well-being. Inasmuch as the character of a dog’s stomach changes as he grows from puppyhood to maturity, so should the quantity, kind, and frequency of his food be varied. A young puppy should — be fed dry bread soaked in milk, a little well cooked cereal, small quantities of boiled green vegetables (never feed potatoes in any form to a dog of any age) and, as he reaches the age of ten weeks or so, a little lean meat may be boiled in with the rest of his food, and an occasional bone given him to gnaw on. From six to twelve weeks of age, feed four times a day, giving the pup enough to satisfy him at each meal, but never allowing him to gorge himself. GENERAL CARE 103 After feeding, let him rest, for reasons explained on a former page. By the time the pup is three months old, he should be receiving very little milk. Its place may be taken by a slightly increased quantity of lean meat, and an additional variety of other food such as boiled rice, manufactured puppy cakes, and any well boiled green vegetables. An excellent food to be given now, and indeed throughout the balance of the dog’s life, is a rather thick soup made of rice, vegetables and lean meat in about the proportions of 2-3-1. Give also a large bone once or twice a week, always avoiding chicken bones or others that may splinter and cause internal troubles; and constantly have within his reach a pan of good clean drinking water containing one- thirtieth of its bulk of lime water. This diet can be continued permanently, cutting down the meals to three a day 104 TRAINING THE DOG at five months, and two at one year, the heaviest meal being given at night. At the age of six or eight weeks prac- tically every puppy is afflicted with in- ternal worms. There are many symp- toms of the presence of these parasites: irregular appetite, often accompanied by an unnatural craving for foreign substances such as straws, pieces of coal, refuse, etc.; thinness and a harsh, staring coat; uneasiness and whining evidently caused by internal discomfort; a tendency to craw! into dark corners; etc. The remedy is simple, and consists of any standard dog vermifuge which can be obtained at all drug stores. Even if you do not definitely suspect the presence of worms in the pup, it is well to give him the vermifuge, administer- ing it in accordance with the directions on the bottle. It can do no possible harm, and will probably do a lot of good. As for any real ailments from which your dog may suffer from time to time, GENERAL CARE 105 I strongly advise that you consult a re- liable veterinary promptly unless you have had experience with that par- ticular trouble. For while it is true that dogs are subject to many of the same troubles as are human beings, re- sponding in many cases to similar treat- ment, yet the dangers of an erroneous diagnosis are too great to be lightly run. A good warm bath with dog soap is of course a periodical necessity for all dogs whose owners make any pretensions to caring for them properly. Once every week or ten days is usually often enough for the dog whose activities do not take him into too intimate acquaintanceship with Mother Earth, and after washing be sure to dry him thoroughly lest he take cold. In conclusion, let me emphasize again the importance of a principle which I have endeavored to make evident 106 TRAINING THE. DOG throughout this book: Common sense. A good dog is the best friend a human being can have, and he deserves the best treatment that his master can give. THE END