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THE
TRAVELLERS DIRECTORY.
THE
TRAVELLER'S DIRECTORY:
A POCKET COMPANION,
SHEWING
THE COURSE OF THE MAIN ROAD
PHILADELPHIA TO NEW YORK;
AND FROM
PHILADELPHIA TO WASHINGTON:
WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PLACES THROUGH WHICH IT PASSES, AND THE INTERSECTIONS OF THE CROSS ROADS.
ILLUSTRATED WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SUCH REMARKABLE OBJECTS AS ARE GENERALLY INTERESTING TO TRAVELLERS.
FROM ACTUAL SURVEY.
BY S. S. MOORE and T. W. JONES.
ill
SECOND EDITION.
PHILADELPHIA : PRINTED FOR MATHEW CAREY,
NO. 122 MARKET-STREET. 1804.
-*
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THE TRAVELLER'S
f ocftet Companion*
PHILADELPHIA.
THIS city is the capital of the state of Pennsylvania, and the chief city of the United States in point of size and splendor ; though it now holds but the second rank in respect to com- mercial importance : the trade of America hav- ing of late flowed more freely into the open chan- nels of New York. Philadelphia was the seat of the Federal Government, until the year 1801, when Congress by a law transferred their annual meeting to the city of Washington, in the territory of Co- lumbia, on the Patowmac.
Philadelphia is situated in latitude 39d. 56m. north ; and longitude nearly 75d. west from the meridian of London, on an extensive plain, five miles above the confluence of the Schuylkill ri- ver, with the Delaware, and on its western bank, which is here, though one hundred and twenty miles from the sea, nearly a mile in breadth, with a sufficient depth of water to admit vessels of 1200 tons burthen. The tide rises six feet per- pendicularly, and flows at the rate of four miles an hour.
The plan of the city, as laid out in 1682 by William Penn, the first proprietor, who either purchased or exchanged the right of the soil with
2 THE TRAVELLER 3
such Swedes and Fins as had previously obtain- ed settlement, is in the form of a parallelogram, extending west from Delaware to beyond the Schuylkill: this was, in 1701, altered and fixed to the eastern bank of the Schuylkill. A great number of houses and cottages were erected with- in the year after the plan of the city was laid out : two of which are yet standing, viz. one at the corner of Front and Dock Streets,' now occupied as a tavern, at the sign of the boatswain and call: the other, which was the city residence of Wil- liam Penn, is in Black-horse Alley, at the back of Lsetitia Court, so named from one of the daugh- ters of the proprietary.
The streets are all, except Dock Street, right lines.. ..nine extending from river to river, east and west, and twenty three crossing at right angles, north and south. Dock Street was not laid out until the year 1784, and was formerly a swamp, with a small run of water through it. This street now forms an agreeable ornament to the city, the stream being arched over, covered with earth, and well paved, commencing at the bridge (formerly a draw) in Front Street, and winding in a north- west course, extending to Third Street ; it is from ninety to one hundred feet in breadth, High, or Market Street, is one hundred feet broad -r Mul- berry or Arch Street, sixty; Broad Street one hundred and thirteen ; all the others are about fifty feet broad. Five open public Squares are laid out in different quarters of the city ; one at the intersection of High and Broad Streets ;the other four, toward the extreme corners of the city, have been appropriated to particular purposes. With- in the improved parts of the city, the streets are paved with pebble stone for carriages, &cc. andhave a brick foot-way on each side, very commodious,
POCKET COMPANION. S
raised nearly one foot above the carriage-way, by curb stones. These streets are intersected by ma- ny smaller ones, with some lanes and allies, en- creasing the number greatly beyond the first plan. The principal streets in general are embellished with Lombardy poplars, which afford agreeable shades from the sultry rays of the sun. The streets, extending east and west, were named af- ter the various kinds of trees that grew most abun- dantly in their situations, viz. beginning on the North side of the city, Vine, Sassafras (now Race), Mulberry (now Arch), Chesnut, Spruce, Pine, Cedar (now South). Those extending from north to south, are named numerically from the Delaware (except Water Street which is thirty feet wide, and extends from the Northern liberties, across the Dock, to Pine Street, parallel to the course of the Delaware ; this street occupies that space between the brow of the river and Front Street, originally designed for wharves, and for stores, which were not to have been built higher than the bank ; so as to have left the houses on the west side of Front Street in full view of the river) westward, Front, Second, Third, &c.
to Broad Street and in the same order from
the Schuylkill eastward. The abutments of all the streets within the limits of the city, on the Delaware, are public property, and were granted by William Penn for the use and benefit of the in- habitants for the landing of fire-wood, &c. brought by shallops, to the city. The wharves are let out by the Corporation, and produce an annual income of nearly 1400 dollars. The streets are illuminated at night with nearly seven hundred lamps, with two branches each, enclosed in glass lanterns, placed at the tops of high posts, near the edge of the foot pavement.
4 THE TRAVELLER'S
The improvements, north of Vine Street, are called the Northern Liberties, and include Ken- sington, originally called Shackamaxon. Those south of Cedar or South Street, are distinguish- ed by the names of Southwark, Moyamensing, and Passyunk.
The houses in the city and suburbs are chiefly three stories high, built with brick, in a plain neat
style.
The houses for public worship, of various de- nominations, are thirty : viz. five for Quakers, six for Presbyterians, three for Episcopalians, four for Roman Catholics, three for Germans, two for Methodists, the oldest church in Philadelphia, situated in Southwark, for Swedes, one for Co- venantors, one for Moravians, one for Baptists, one for Universalists, one for Africans, and one for yews.
The First Presbyterian Church stands on the South side of Market street, between Second and Third Streets; it was rebuilt in 1794, (upon the scite of the old church,) and finished in a neat style. A large portico, supported by four pillars, of the Corinthian order, extends the whole front, in Market Street, to which there is an ascent by a flight of steps, enclosed within an iron railing.
The German Lutheran Church, called Sion, stands on the east side of Fourth Street, between Arch and Race Streets, at the corner of Cherry Alley.. ..It is one hundred and eight feet long, by forty eight feet wide, and lately finished with great elegance, since it was unfortunately burnt in the winter of 1795. The organ is large and elegant, and was built by Mr. D. Taneberger, a member of the united brethren's society at Siditz.
POCKET COMPANION. 5
Christ Church stands on the west side of Se- cond Street, between Market and Arch Streets. It was the first Episcopal Church built in Phila- delphia. It is a handsome building, with an ele- gant steeple, provided with an excellent set of bells.
The Second Presbyterian Church stands at the north-west corner of x\rch and Third Streets. This Church had a handsome steeple, but, being found unsafe, it has been taken down to the base.
St. Augustine Church stands on the west side of Fourth Street, between Race and Vine Streets. This is the largest Church in Philadelphia : it was built partly by subscription, and partly by means of a lottery granted by the Legislature to the Roman Catholics.
The African Church, called St. Thomas's, stands on the west side of Fifth Street, between Walnut and Spruce Streets. It was built by private sub- scription, and is a large, neat building, but re- mains yet unfinished. A black clergyman, regu- larly ordained, performs divine service therein.
The State House, or Town-hall, with Court Houses, on the south side of Chesnut Street, ex- tend from Fifth to Sixth Streets. It is a substantial edifice of two hundred feet front, including the wings; it was erected in 1735, and, considering the early state and infancy of the colony at that time, the architecture is much admired. The State House Yard occupies the remaining part of one entire square, extending to Walnut Street: it is a neat place, ornamented with rows of trees, and handsome gravelled walks, one through the centre, with grass plats on each side. The whole is enclosed with high brick walls, on Fifth, Wal- nut, and Sixth Streets.
THE TRAVELLERS
The University is on the west side of Fourth Street near Arch Street, and was incorporated by the Legislature in 1791, uniting it with the old College, Academy, and charitable Schools, which were instituted in 1779. They are now placed under the management of a board of Tmstees, consisting of twenty-four members ; the gover- nor of the state for the time being, is always Pre- sident. The library and philosophical apparatus, belonging to the University, have of late been greatly enlarged, and judiciously selected ; the trustees of which, having purchased a large airy house built by the State on the corner of Market and Ninth Streets, they removed their schools thereto in the spring of 1802, and the old build- ing is occupied as private academies, &c. &c.
The City and County Jail, and Debtors' Apart- merits are in Sixth Street, from Walnut, to Prune, near Spruce Street These buildings are of stone : the Jail is one hundred feet in front on Walnut Street. It has a ground half story, and two sto- ries above it : all the apartments are arched with stone, and fire proof: it is a hollow square, and is the strongest, neatest, and largest building of its kind, in the United States. To the Jail is an- nexed a work house, in which the sexes are kept apart. Various trades and manufactories are car- ried on here, by the criminals, under the super- intendance of Inspectors appointed by the Mayor and Aldermen: particularly cutting nails, and sawing Stone and Marble. There have been ad- ded new apartments for the solitary confinement of criminals. The Debtors' apartment is to the South of the Jail.
The American Philosophical Society's Hall is in Fifth Street, adjoining the city court house : This
POCKET COMPANION. 7
society was formed in January 1769, by the union of two other literary societies, and incorporated the 15th of March 1780: The number of mem- bers is not limited. There are many honorary members, residing in various parts of Europe.
The Philadelphia Library is situated nearly op- posite to the Philosophical Hall, in Fifth Street. It is a large, handsome brick building, with a flight of steps in front ; and in a niche over the door, is an elegantly-executed statue, in white marble, of the late Doctor Benjamin Franklin, the original promoter andencouragerof the institution. The room for the library is very spacious, and furnished with tables and seats ; adjoining this room is another for the books of the Loganian Library. The Museum room is up stairs. The Library Company was incorporated in 1742, since which time the collection of books has been greatly encreased by occasional donations, annu- al importations, and purchases of every x\meri- can production of merit. At present the Libra- ry contains upwards of twelve thousand volumes, besides a museum, a valuable philosophical ap- paratus, and a curious clock, invented by the late Doctor David Kittenhouse, which gives notice, bv ringing an alarm every evening, at the setting of the sun, and winds itself up at the same time. The Library is open every afternoon in the week, (except Sunday) from two o'clock, until sun set, during which time, any person may indulge his taste for reading, in the room, free of expence ; and those who choose may, by leaving a deposit equal to the value of the book, or set to which it belongs, have it at home, and on returning it, pay a moderate price for the loan. To this library is annexed a valuable and rare collection of books, in almost all the ancient languages, bequeath-
8 THE TRAVELLER'S
ed to the use of the public, by James Logan, a gentleman of considerable literature. The Li- brary Company of Philadelphia, in conjunction with the heirs of the said James Logan, are trus- tees for this library ; the property of which, by law, is kept distinct from the former, and it is ordered that the said library shall be known by the name of " The Loganian Library."
The Pennsylvania Hospital and Gardens occu- py one whole square from Spruce to Pine Streets, and from Eighth to Ninth Streets. The hospital is appropriated for the relief of the sick, the lame* and those disordered in mind ; also for lying-in wo- men, and for foundlings. It was incorporated in 1750, by an act of the assembly, and is under the management of twelve persons, chosen annually by the contributors. These managers choose six of the most skilful surgeons and physicians of the city, two of whom, with two managers, attend at the Hospital every Wednesday and Saturday, at 1 1 o'clock in the forenoon, to receive and discharge patients, and to administer physic to the sick. The productive stock consists of contributions, fines, and sums received from pay patients, &tc. and the unproductive estate in several valuable lots of ground, particularly the whole square to the eastward, which is always to remain open,
for the free circulation of air the buildings a
medical library, and a handsome collection of the most curious and elegant anatomical preparations, presented by Doctor Fothergill of London ; and others by Doctor Chauvet. The buildings are completed on the original plan ; and are the lar- gest and most conveniently calculated of any in the United States for the humane and charitable purposes for which they were erected. The plan is in the form of the letter H.
POCKET COMPANION. 9
The Philadelphia Dispensary on the east side of Fifth Street, a little below the Library, and opposite the State House Yard, is for granting me- dical relief to the poor. It was instituted in April 1786, and is supported by annual contributions, life subscriptions, and occasional donations. It is under the management of twelve persons, chosen annually amongst the subscribers ; the managers appoint six attending, and four con- sulting physicians, who give their services gratis.
The Alms-house, or Bettering-house, and Gar- dens, occupy one whole square, from Spruce to Pine Streets, and from Tenth to Eleventh Streets. The house is a large commodious building, where the distressed poor of the city and liberties find a comfortable residence, in the hour of sickness and want : and those whom actual poverty obli- ges to seek an asylum within the walls, receive support, and find employment to make them use- ful to society : The blind, the old, and the ema- ciated, here pass the remainder of life in peace and tranquillity. And here also the unhappy female, who is destitute of the means of relief, when she is most in need of it, is amply provi- ded with every thing requisite for a safe delivery, and an expeditious recovery. This institution is under the care of the guardians and overseers of the poor, who are a corporate body, created by an act of the legislature in 1766, with power to impose taxes for its further support.
The Friends'' Alms-house is on the south side of Walnut Street, between Third and Fourth Streets : and is under the superintendance of com- mittees appointed at the monthly meetings of the Quakers, held at Philadelphia, and is supported by them for the use of their own poor, It con-
10 THE TRAVELLER'S
tains a great number of separate apartments for families or single persons who have fallen to de- cay. Within the area, is a large garden produc- ing abundance of valuable herbs, both physical and aromatic.
Christ Church Hospital is on the north side of Arch Street, No. 1 1 1, between Third and Fourth Streets, endowed by Doctor John Kearsley, the elder, formerly an eminent physician in this city, for aged widows of the Protestant Episcopal Church, for whose support an estate, chiefly land- ed, was bequeathed, which he vested in the rec- tor, church-wardens, and vestry-men of St. Pe- ter's and St. Paul's Episcopal churches ; to pro- vide the objects of his charity with meat, drink, and lodging, and necessary assistance in physic
and surgery This institution has been greatly
enlarged by the donation of Mr. Dobbins.
The College of Physicians^ for promoting and extending medical, anatomical and chemical knowledge, and harmony and uniformity in the practice of physic, hold their stated meetings in the Philosophical Hall, in Fifth Street, on the first Thursday in every month. In 1789, they obtained a charter of incorporation from the Le- gislature of the state.
The Pennsylvania Society for the abolition of Slavery meet at the Friends' Meeting House in Fourth Street, near Chesnut Street, to superin- tend the morals, conduct, and ordinary situation of the free blacks ; to place out black children and young people with suitable persons, to learn some trade, or other business, for subsistence : to su- perintend the school instruction of the children and youth of free blacks ; they were incorpora- ted December 8, 1789.
POCKET COMPANION. H
The Humane Society, for the recovery of persons apparently drowned, and other cases of suspended animation, was instituted in 1780.
The Society for alleviating the Miseries of pub- lic Prisons, was instituted in May 1787, and has been of essential service.
The Philadelphia Society, for promoting Agri- culture, was instituted in 178 5, and has been pro- ductive of considerable improvements in rural economy. . -
The Pennsylvania Society for the encouragement of useful Arts and Manufactures, was established in 1787 ; and is open for the admission of every ci- tizen in the United States, who will engage to ful- fil the rules and regulations of the same : the terms are, each member pays ten shillings to the gene- ral fund, when admitted, and the same sum year^ ly, during his continuance as a member.
The Philadelphia Society, for the Establishment and Support of Charity Schools, was incorporated September 8, 1801. This institution has for its object, the establishing and supporting a school or schools, to educate gratis, in reading, writing, arithmetic and other useful learning, children of the poor, of all denominations, in the city and liberties, without respect to the country or reli- gion of their parents or friends. It now consists of one hundred and eighty members, who, by contributions, support a day school for boys, in which there are fifty now educated. This is the first institution of the kind, established in Phila- delphia, on so liberal a basis ; the other charity schools in the city, being confined to children of the different religious persuasions ; and what renders it more particularly honourable is, that
12 THE TRAVELLER'S
it originated with, and was founded by, young men.
Besides these, there are several national soci- eties for the relief of emigrants : viz. The Hi- bernian, St. George's, the German, and Welch ; a charitable society for the support of widows and families of Presbyterian clergymen ; a marine so- ciety, St. Andrew's charitable society, Franklin so- ciety, Carpenters' society, Society of Shipwrights, and the Philadelphia society, for the information and assistance of emigrants, instituted in 1794. The Mutual Insurance Company, for insuring houses from loss by fire ; the Contributionship, for the same purpose ; the North America Insu- rance Company, incorporated in 1792, for in- suring vessels at sea ; the Pennsylvania, Phoe- nix, and Marine Insurance Companies, &c. Manufactories, &c. are numerous, viz. Rope Walks, Breweries, Sugar houses, manufactories of Earthenware, Hair Powder, Chocolate, Mus- tard, Patent and Cut Nails, Steel, Aqua-fortis, Oil Colours, Glauber Salts and Sal Ammoniac, Parchment and Morocco Leather, Buttons, Cards, Spirits, Types, and forty Printing Offices ; six of which publish daily newspapers ; besides three weekly ones, two of which are in German. Coach making, Cabinet work, Carving, and Ship building, are carried on in Philadelphia to a degree of per- fection unrivalled in America, and little excelled in Europe. But the staple commodity of Phila- delphia, is Flour, of which 4C0,0U0 barrels have been exported in one year.
The Bank of North America, on the north side of Chesnut Street near Third Street, is a small private building.
POCKET COMPANION. IS
The Banli of the United States is on the west side of Third Street, below Chesnut Street, and opposite to Dock Street. The foundation was laid in 1795, and it was opened for Business in 1798. It is a square building, ninety-six feet in front, and seventy-two feet deep. The front has a portico, supported by six fluted columns of white marble, of the Corinthian order ; the cornice and pediment are of wood, highly enriched. The tympanum is decorated with the American eagle and arms. The front is of white marble as high as the frieze, inclusive, and extends beyond the portico, on each side, in two wings, and is deco- rated with Pilasters. The whole of the ground floor, excepting the small area of the stair case, and small private rooms for the President and Cashier, is appropriated for the hall of business. The walls of the sides and back are of red brick. The roof is covered with copper.
The Bank of Pennsylvania is on the west side of Second Street, between Chesnut and Walnut Streets. This edifice has been erected according to the plans, and under the superintendance of B. H. Latrobe, Esq. an American architect, whose correct taste has led him to study and imitate the chastest models of Grecian architecture. The exterior of this bank is of white marble. ...the ele- gant simplicity of the whole design is such, that, whilst no expence has been spared to render it secure and convenient, little has been incurred in mere ornament. It is fifty-three feet front and one hundred and thirty-five feet in depth, includ- ing the porticos and steps. The principal front on Second Street, consists of a portico of six Ionic columns supporting an entablature and pe- diment....that on Dock Street is similar; both are finished agreeably to the proportions of the
44 THE TRAVELLER S
portico of the temple of Minerva Polias at Athens, a work which has ever been considered as one of the chef d'ceuvres of antiquity. The front wall has no opening, except the door. The sides are plain without pilasters, divided into a centre mass, and recessed wings : each of these divisions has one large arched window, and a pannel or win- dow above : The entablature runs uninterrupted- ly round the whole building. The centre mass of the building, rises eight feet above the entab- lature, in a plain attic, and is covered with a so- lid marble roof, in two circular stages. A circu- lar cupulo of eight large windows, covered with a dome, is carried up above the centre opening, and gives light to the hall. All the exterior wails, co- lumns, entablatures, and ceiling of the porticos are of white, and the roof of blue marble. The interior of the building consists of a vestibule, leading from the east door on Second Street to the banking room or hall of business, which is circular, forty-five feet in diameter, and of equal height. Beyond this is an elegant apartment for the meetings of the stockholders, forty-five by twenty-five feet ; there are also rooms for the use of the directors, president, and cashier, &c. &c. Every room is arched, so that it is com- pletely fire-proof. The stair cases are of mar- ble, and the dome of the banking room is co- vered with the same material in very large slabs, some of which weigh six tons. The corner stone of this building was laid on the 8th of April 1799, the dome was closed in June 1800, and it was occupied in July 1801. It stands insulated, and is enclosed by an iron palisade.
Foreigners have expressed their surprise at finding in Philadelphia, within a century of its foundation, a building, which would be consider-
POCKET COMPANION. 15
ed an ornament to any city in Europe, erected af- ter a Grecian model, and of materials similar to those used by the ancients in edifices, which have, as it were, outlived the lapse of ages, and remain at this day proud evidences of their progress in those arts and sciences which have civilized the human race.
The Philadelphia Bank was incorporated by an act of the Legislature in 1804, and is in a pri- vate building in Chesnut Street, nearly opposite to the Bank of North America.
Peak's Museum, lately kept in the hall of the Philosophical Society, is now removed to the State House, by virtue of a resolution of the Le- gislature, granting the proprietor the upper part of the building and the east room below. This Museum, raised by the indefatigable industry and persevering ingenuity and taste of an individual, almost without pecuniary aid, contains the most valuable and extensive collection of the subjects of natural history, to be met with in this country. Its systematic order and classification of subjects, are now so methodically arranged, and so clearly explained by references, that the most common understanding may thence derive information and instruction. It is justly considered as an impor- tant acquisition to science, and the arts ; and its utility and respectability are constantly becoming more and more extensive, from the many addi- tions that are made to it. Mr. Peale anticipates, that it will become a source of national informa- tion ; and that future generations will reap con- siderable benefit from its institution.
He has generously pledged himself, that the subjects of his Museum shall not be disposed of
ltf THE TRAVELLER'S
without the consent of a number of gentlemen, who, by his own invitation, are formed into a society for visiting and inspecting it.
The New Theatre is on the north side of Ches- nut Street, near the corner of Sixth Street, a large handsome brick building, finished in 1793, with a piazza in front, supported by ten columns. The internal part of the building is elegant and commodious. Theatrical performances are ex- hibited three or four times a week, during the months of December, January, February, and March.
The Old Theatre in South Street, near Fourth Street, is a wooden building, low, heavy and plain in the inside. ...plainer on the outside. ...it is now very seldom used.
The Mint of the United States is still continued in Seventh Street, between Market and Arch Streets.
The Market House in High Street, extends from Front Street to Fourth Street, and is plentifully- supplied with provisions of all kinds, vegetables, roots, &c. on Wednesdays and Saturdays in the mornings; and Tuesday and Friday afternoons by the country people, with butter, eggs, poul- try, &c. Clerks of the market are appointed to detect frauds, in butter, false measures, and un- wholesome provisions. For cleanliness and neat- ness, it is inferior to no market in the world. There are three other market houses.. ..one in Cal- lowhill Street, between Front and Second Streets ; one in Second Street, in the Northern Liberties ; and one in the same Street, near South Street.
There is in the city, a Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons, and a number of others subor-
POCKET COMPANION. 17
dinate thereto. A commodious hall has been built for their use in Filbert Street, between Eighth and Ninth Streets.
The private buildings in Philadelphia are ge- nerally three stories high, built of a clear red brick, ornamented with facings, key stones, and flights of steps, of white marble. Four or five hundred houses have been annually erected for several years past, no small proportion of which (it is said not less than two hundred) have been built by William Sansom, Esq. of this city, whose well laid plans have greatly improved Philadel- phia, particularly in Walnut Street, from Sixth to Eighth Streets. ...in Chesnut Street, and in a street, between Walnut and Chesnut, named af- ter him, the first that has been built in America, with a strict attention to uniformity... .also, in Second Street, where it crossed a morass, that had long formed an inconvenient separation be- tween the City and the Northern Liberties, he has overcome almost unparalled difficulties, and produced an elegant and convenient range of dwelling houses, forming a handsome western side of the street.
Philadelphia, including Southwark and the Northern Liberties, now extends near three miles along the Delaware, and about a mile east and west ; and is supposed to contain thirteen thou- sand houses, and eighty thousand people.
The Water Works are, in point of magnitude, utility, and advantage, by far the greatest work yet attempted in this State : the works consist of the following parts : In the bed of the Schuyl- kill, a basin has been formed, three feet deeper than low water mark : this basin is protected by
D
IS THE TRAVELLER'S
a wall, next to the river, of wrought granite, one hundred and seventy-two feet long, and sixteen feet thick at the base ; in the centre of this wall is a sluice, either to admit water into or exclude it from the basin : at the up- per end thereof there is another wall and sluice, admitting the water to the canal, forty feet wide, and two hundred feet long ; at the east end of which is a subterraneous tunnel that conveys the water into a well, over which is a steam engine, capable of raising above 4,500,000 gallons of water in twenty-four hours : this is conveyed through a tunnel, six feet clear in di- ameter, along Chesnut and Broad Streets, into the centre of Market Street. In Centre Square, the water is received into a marble edifice, con- taining a steam engine of equal force with the former, which raises the water into a reservoir, forty-six feet high, from whence it descends through pipes into various parts of the city ; and, in numerous instances, has abundantly proved its utility, by a speedy and plentiful supply of wa- ter in the extinguishment of fires, by means of hydrants and pumps placed in many parts of the city.
The building in the Centre Square, is an ex- act square of sixty feet, having a doric portico on the east and west fronts in Market Street ; a cir- cular tower of forty feet diameter rises, termina- ted by a dome ; the whole height is sixty-two feet. The building is faced with white marble, the dome is constructed of brick, laid in cement : The Reservoir is of marble, and capable of hold- ing 20,000 gallons of water. The shafts of the columns of the porticos consist each of one sin- gle block of marble, fourteen feet nine inches long, and two feet nine inches diameter at the
POCKET COMPANION. 19
base. The simplicity of the style of this build- ing, and its conspicuous situation, render it a pleasing object, when viewed at a distance. The first stone of the works was laid in 1799.
Schuylkill Permanent Bridge. By an act of the Legislature, a company was incorporated in 1798, for erecting a permanent stone bridge over the Schuylkill, at or near the west end of Market Street. The first stone was laid in October 1800. The bridge is to consist of three large arches, of which the centre is to be two hundred and fifty feet wide ; and the other two to be each one hun- dred and fifty feet. The width of the bridge will be fifty *eet, with lamps, and foot ways on each side. The piers are completed, and it is expect- ed to be made passable towards the end of the summer of 1804. The original plan has been deviated from.. ..the bearings from pier to pier are to be of wood.
Philadelphia was first incorporated in 1701, before which it was called the town of Philadel- phia : on the late revolution, the charter was an- nulled, and in 1789 a new one was granted by the General Assembly of the state ; to which was passed a supplement in 1790; by which it is go- verned by a Mayor, Recorder, fifteen Aldermen, twelve Select, and twenty Common Council men. The Mayor is elected annually by the Corpora- tion, from among the Aldermen ; the Recorder and the Aldermen are appointed by the Governor. The Mayor, Recorder, and Aldermen are Justices of the Peace, and of Oyer and Terminer. They hold a court four times a year, and take cogni- zance of all crimes and misdemeanors committed within the city. The freemen of the city, with those of the county of Philadelphia, and the coun-
20 THE TRAVELLER'S
ty of Delaware, elect three citizens to represent them in the Congress of the United States. The city has five members in the House of Represen- tatives of the state.
HARROWGATE
Is about four miles and a quarter from Phi- ladelphia, and nearly a quarter of a mile west from the main road. It is a place of public resort for entertainment, bathing, and drink- ing its mineral waters : these contain a small quantity of iron, with a larger portion of that species of air, denominated hepatic ; from which latter its smell and taste are derived. The gar- dens are laid out with neatness, and varied with pleasant walks, shaded by lofty trees, interspers- ed with shrubs and a profusion of flowers, in their proper seasons.
FRANKFORD
Is pleasantly situated, on an elevated, healthy spot, between five and six miles north east from Philadelphia, and about one and an half direct from Delaware River. It is a large, populous and increasing village, on the north-east side of a creek, of the same name, that empties into the river Delaware, about a mile and an half from the bridge, at the entrance of the town. The country adjacent is pleasant and well cultivated, and embellished with many handsome seats, as summer residences of the wealthy citizens of Philadelphia. Here is an Episcopal and German church, also an Academy.
POCKET COMPANION. 21
LOWER DUBLIN ACADEMY
Is about ten miles and three quarters from Philadelphia, on an elevated spot, on the west side of the road, at a little distance therefrom : it was established by authority of the legislature of the state, by means of a lottery.
PROSPECT HILL
On the summit of which is the twelve mile stone, is near the seat of Levinus Clarkson, Esq. and that of Mr. Sicard. This place justly de- serves its appellation, as it commands a most beautiful and extensive view of the surrounding country, in which the Delaware adds grandeur to the picturesque scene.
POQUASIN CREEK
At the distance of twelve miles and three fur- longs from Philadelphia, crosses the road, over which is a stone bridge. This creek is the boun- dary between Philadelphia and Bucks Counties.
PHILADELPHIA COUNTY
Is bounded north-west by Montgomery Coun- ty ; north-east by Poquasin Creek, which divides it from Bucks County ;. south and south-east by the river Delaware ; and south-west by Delaware County. Its population (exclusive of the city of Philadelphia) amounts to about 12,000 free per- sons, and it is divided into thirteen townships. In this county, on the banks of Schuylkill river, is a quarry of marble, from which the stonecutters of Philadelphia are supplied. The average qual- ity of the land, throughout this county, may be
22 THE TRAVELLER'S
designated a Sandy Loam. It is fertile, and well cultivated.
BUCKS COUNTY
Is bounded north-east and south-east by the river Delaware ; north-west by Northampton County ; and south-west by Montgomery and Philadelphia Counties. Its population is about 25,000 free inhabitants, and it is divided into twenty-seven townships. The soil is rich ; lime- stone is plentiful ; and some iron and lead ore, it is said, has been found.
NESHAMINY CREEK
Crosses the road at sixteen miles and a half from Philadelphia ; over which is an indifferent floating bridge, about one hundred and eighteen yards in length, where tolls are to be paid. The creek is navigable about two miles and an half from its mouth, to the head of the tide.
CHINA RETREAT,
At about a quarter of a mile from Neshaminy, stands at a considerable distance from the road, and on the banks of the Delaware. It is a large elegant building, executed in the style of the East India dwellings, by Mr. Van Braam.
BRISTOL
Is nineteen miles and three quarters from Phi- ladelphia, situated on the west bank of the De- laware, and nearly opposite to Burlington, in the state of New Jersey ; to and from which places are ferry boats hourly plying. This town had formerly some reputation on account of its mine-
POCKET COMPANION. 23
ral waters, but at present they are not held in any estimation. It contains about fifty dwel- lings, some of which are neat and commodious. It is much resorted to in the summer season, for its agreeable and healthy situation, and good ac- commodations ; there is a Presbyterian, a Qua- ker, and a Methodist Meeting House ; also a Market House. It is a post town.
TULLY TOWN,
At the twenty-four mile stone, is an insignifi- cant place, having only a few houses, one of which is a tavern.
MORETON'S TAVERN
Is twenty-six miles and three quarters from Philadelphia. This place is noted for the first public execution in the County of Bucks ; whence it acquired the name of Tyburn, which it retains to this day.
MORRISVILLE,
On the west bank of Delaware, at the falls of Trenton, is an airy and pleasant thriving village. It has a number of handsome buildings, and some elegant seats. The one built by Robert Morris, Esq. claims the pre-eminence, whether considered with respect to its delightful situation, or to its neatness and ornamental grounds. On an island adjoining this village, were the exten- sive mills, &c. erected by him, for grinding grain, rolling and slitting iron, pounding and grinding plaster of Paris, he. They are now generally decayed and in ruins ; and others of smaller note erected in their stead. The ferry, at Morrisville.,
24 the traveller's
is at the head of tide water, just below the Falls : here daily pass and repass, five four-horse stages to and from Philadelphia and New York : also two stages to and from Trenton to Philadelphia, every other day : besides a great number of pri- vate carriages, chairs, horses, &c. The boats pass with the greatest safety from shore to shore, by means of poles, &c. A ferriage toll is paid here for crossing the river.
After crossing the ferry from Pennsylvania, the traveller enters into the state of New Jersey, one mile distant from
TRENTON,
And thirty miles from Philadelphia. Over As- sampink Creek is a stone bridge ; on the heights, on both sides of this creek, were the encampments of the American army, under the command of General George Washington, and likewise of the British forces : Here a battle was fought ; and the capture of 600 Hessians from the English army, formed a brilliant epoch in the annals of the American Revolution. One of the redoubts still remains, the area of which is planted with apple trees. The fields and adjacent places are still marked with memorials of the interment of the dead, from the field of battle. This city is built directly opposite the Falls, on the eastern bank of the Delaware, and stands elevated from the water ; though not so high as Lamberton, in the vicinity, to the south-west, about a mile distant ; to which place sloops come up and unload, from whence the goods are conveyed by land carriage to Trenton, he. Boats and canoes can ascend the Falls, at certain times, and go nearly one hundred miles higher up, though sometimes at-
POCKET COMPANION. 25
tended with great difficulty. Trenton is the seat of government for the state of New Jersey ; here the Legislature assemble annually, and are ac- commodated in the State House, a large noble edifice, 100 feet by 30, with a semi-hexagon at each end, over which is a ballustrade. The building is crowned with a handsome cupola, with offices for the courts of justice. This is an incor- porated city, and is governed by a Mayor, Re- corder, three Aldermen, and six Assistants. The public buildings, besides the State House, are, a Jail, State Prison, Market, Academy, Episco- pal Church, Friends, Methodist, and Presbyte- rian Meeting Houses, Court House, and a School House. In the neighbourhood are numbers of elegant seats, with grounds well laid out, and va- ried as much as art and nature will admit ; parti- cularly that called Twickenham Park, now occu- pied as a tavern, at a small distance from the ferry ; that of Mr. Davenport, on the north-west of the city and on the river's banks, is peculiar- ly beautiful, as also those of Mr. Cadwallader and Mr. Rutherford claim attention from the traveller.
HUNTERDON COUNTY
Is bounded west and south-west by the river Delaware ; north-west by Sussex County ; north by Morris County ; east by Somerset County ; and south-east by Assampink Creek, which se- parates it from Burlington County. Its popula- tion is about 20,000 ; and it is divided into ten, townships.
MAIDENHEAD,
At about the thirty-sixth mile from Philadel- phia and six from Trenton, is a small, neat and
26 the traveller's
airy village ; in it is a Presbyterian church. The country here may be styled pleasant and fertile. About a mile from hence, on the east side of the road, is a patch of land, of about two thousand acres, called the " Maidenhead Meadows :" a very valuable tract, of the Fenny kind. The soil is a rich black mould, in many places six feet deep. Its fertility depends upon the spring fresh- es, by which it is overflowed from Stony Brook. Its quality has, of late, undergone some kind of change ; for, the first annual crop of grass, if eaten by cattle, has a tendency to overheat them, and bring off the hoofs ; but the second crop has not that effect. It is something like the peat fen- land : for, when cut and dried, it serves for fuel, and in seasons of uncommon drought, has taken fire, and burnt for a long time. Before coming to Stony Brook, the traveller quits Hunterdon County. The road from thence to New Bruns- wick, separates Somerset County on the west, from Middlesex County on the east. Each of these counties is rich, luxuriant, and well culti- vated.
PRINCETON,
A post town, at about the forty second mile from Philadelphia, and twelfth from Trenton is situated in each of the before mentioned coun- ties ; and is a pleasant, healthful and thriving town ; in it is a brick Presbyterian church. On the south-east side stood the college, incorporated in 1733, and greatly enlarged in 1747, a hand- some stone building, one hundred and eighty feet front, by fifty-four feet deep, four stories high, divided into forty-two chambers, besides a chapel, refectory, and room for the Library, in which were upwards of two thousand volumes, with a
POCKET COMPANION. 27
curious and beautiful Orrery, constructed by the late Doctor David Rittenhouse. Thi s fine build- ing, the pride of the state, was unfortunately burnt to the ground, on the 6th day of March, 1802, and scarcely any thing saved from the con- flagration. A subscription which was immedi- ately opened, to rebuild it with superior elegance, has been filled with great liberality, and another edifice has been built. The fields behind the scite of the college, have been rendered celebra- ted by a battle between the Americans and Bri- tish, at the commencement of which, the Ame- rican General Mercer fell, fighting in the cause of liberty and independence.
KINGSTON,
Between the forty-fourth and forty-fifth mile from Philadelphia, is a small village, situated on a high spot, on the east bank of Millstone River.
ROCKY HILL,
Commonly called " The Devil's Feather Bed," is between the forty-sixth and forty-seventh mile. This hill was formerly very difficult and dange- rous to pass, from the great numbers of massy stones promiscuously distributed on the surface ; but, the state having directed the repairs of pub- lic roads, this has received its share of improve- ment, and is now made much more convenient and easy to travellers.
NEW BRUNSWICK
Is between the fifty-eighth and fifty-ninth mile from Philadelphia, and the twenty-eighth and twenty-ninth mile from Trenton, on the south-
28 the traveller's
west bank of the Rariton river, partly in Mid- dlesex and partly in Somerset Counties, fifteen miles from Rariton bay. This city lies low, and disagreeably, being at the foot of a hill which rises behind the town. It is very populous in proportion to its area, and contains upwards of two hundred and eighty houses. In consequence of a good navigation, it carries on a considerable trade. The public buildings are, three houses for public worship, Queen's College, a gram- mar school, court house, jail, and market house. The streets are raised, and well paved. The water is generally bad. The bridge, at which a toll is paid, across the Rariton, is one of the most elegant and expensive in the United States ; it is built of wood, nine hundred and fifty feet long, opposite Albany Street ; the piers are of hewn stone. This city was incorporated so ear- ly as 1684. It is a post town.
RARITON RIVER
Is attended with some peculiarities deserving of remark. It is, opposite the town, so shallow at low water, as to be fordable for horses with car- riages ; but its bed declines from a level so ra- pidly, that, at a little distance lower down, a large vessel may ride with safety at full tide, which rises very high, whereby river craft pass above the ford.
PISCATAWAY
Is near the sixty-first mile from Philadelphia, and thirty-one from Trenton. It is a scattered village, consisting of only a few houses along the road.
POCKET COMPANION. 29
BONIIAM TOWN,
Between the sixty-third and sixty-fourth mile, is another small village, situated in Woodbridge township ; it contains a few houses ; and is at a small distance from navigation, near the Salt Marshes. The land is good.
WOODBRIDGE,
At the sixty-ninth mile from Philadelphia and thirty-ninth from Trenton, is situated on a small stream, which empties into the sound near Perth Amboy. It is a handsome post town, of a mo- derate size, and contains many good buildings, among which are an Episcopal and a Presbyte- rian church. The road from this place is through a very level country, (excellently adapted for cul- tivation of every kind ; and particularly for mea- dows) until the traveller comes to
RAH WAY,
Between the seventy-second and seventy-third mile, situated on a river of the same name. It is a populous thriving village, though scattered very much. It contains a Presbyterian church and Friends' meeting. The village oiHambertan is adjacent.
ESSEX COUNTY,
Into which the traveller now enters, is boun- ded south by Middlesex, on the west by Somer- set and Morris, and on the north and east by Ber- gen County. It is about sixteen miles broad, and twenty -five miles long, and its population up- wards of 17,000. It is, in general, in the east-
50 THE TRAVELLER'S
ern part, a most luxuriant fertile country, of the level, soft meadow kind.
ELIZABETH TOWN,
Between the seventy-eighth and seventy-ninth mile from Philadelphia, is a post town and bo- rough, and situated on a small creek of the same name, (over which is a stone bridge,) which empties into Arthur Kull, or Newark Bay. It contains about one hundred and fifty dwelling houses, and is pleasantly situated. The modern buildings are respectable, regular, and in good taste. This is one of the oldest towns in the state, the ground having been purchased of the Indians in the year 1664, and settled soon after by emigrants from Long Island. It is situated in one of the richest spots of soil in the county. It has a very handsome new brick church for Presbyterians, another for Episcopalians, a large court house, and an academy.
NEWARK,
A post town, extends from the eighty-fourth to the eighty-fifth mile from Philadelphia. It is large, populous, rich and flourishing, pleasantly situated at a small distance west of the Passaick River. It is celebrated for the excellence of its cy- der ; and has the largest shoe manufactory in the state, in which sixty thousand pairs are annually made. In Newark are several handsome public buildings, among which are, a large elegant stone meeting house for Presbyterians, an Episcopal church, a court house, and Jail. The academy, established in 1792, has attained considerable celebrity, and proves an useful institution. In this place, and in Orange, adjacent, there are nine
POCKET COMPANION. 31
tanneries ; and valuable quarries of stone, for building. This town was originally settled by- emigrants from Connecticut, so early as 1662.
From Newark the road is good, and pleasingly varied on each side with farms, meadows, &tc. to the Passaick River, over which is an elegant bridge, five hundred feet long, in the centre of which is a draw, for the accommodation of sloops sailing up or down. Tolls are paid at this bridge.
PASSAICK RIVER
Is navigable about ten miles. The Patterson manufactories, and the new town of that name, are near the Falls. Many handsome country seats ornament and improve its banks. The cataract, or the Great Falls, is one of the most considerable natural curiosities in the state. The river is about one hundred and twenty feet wide, and moves slowly in a gentle current, until with- in a short distance of the precipice, from whence it descends in one entire sheet, above seventy feet perpendicular, presenting a beautifully tre- mendous scene ; and the variety of rainbows, formed by sprays arising, when the sun shines, add greatly to the scene.
THE CAUSEWAY
Begins at the eighty-seventh mile from Phila- delphia : this is an artificial road, over the great cedar swamp, made of logs, laid across the road, close together, of three or four layers, and co- vered with the sods and earth dug up on each side, to form a ditch, for keeping the road dry : over this is laid gravel ; but it is brought from a
32 the traveller's
considerable distance, and at great expense, and the road in many places is unpleasant. It con- tinues about three miles to the Hackinsack river, over which is a bridge similar to that over the Passaick, where tolls are also collected.
HACKINSACK RIVER
Is navigable fifteen miles. Northward from the bridge, is seen " Rattle Snake Hill," nearly- round which the river winds : it is situated in the midst of Bergen Marshes, and has a singular appearance.
About the middle of a ridge, which divides the marshes on the east side of Hackinsack river, from those on the borders of Hudson river, the road leaves the town of Bergen to the southward, to which a road leads, between the ninety-first and ninety-second mile. The old road formerly passed through this town. From thence, after again descending to the Marshes, at about nine- ty-three miles and an half from Philadelphia, is
PAULUS HOOK,
On the west bank of Hudson river. This place is peculiarly adapted for the stand of a fer- ry, and is, perhaps, as much used as any other in the United States. The river here, from tri- als made by the patent log machine, is found to be two thousand two hundred and eighty yards wide, which is one mile and a quarter, and eighty yards. Adjoining to the ferry house, and on the heights behind, are remains of the fortifications erected during the Revolutionary war.
POCKET COMPANION.
HUDSON RIVER
Is one of the finest and largest rivers within the United States : its whole length is about two hundred and fifty miles. It rises in a mountain- ous country, between the lakes Ontario and Cham- plain. The western banks are high and rocky ; it is only navigable for sloops, of eighty tons burden, one hundred and sixty miles, to Albany ; and for ships, to Hudson city, thirty miles below Albany.
NEW- YORK
Is situated on the southern extremity of an island, originally called Manhattan, now New- York Island, in latitude 40° 42 'north; and lon- gitude 1° 17 ' east from Philadelphia : the second city in the United States in respect to population ; but first in commerce. It is about five miles in circumference, extending nearly two miles and an half along the East River ; but on the Hudson river it is considerably less. The old part of this city has been built in a very irregular man- ner ; as circumstances of interest, present con- venience, or necessity, prescribed. Some of the streets, particularly Pearl Street, run in a parallel line with the winding or indenting of the shore ; and others, which cross them, are in various di- rections, extending generally from river to river. Some of them, however, are wide, airy and plea- sant ; amongst which are, Broadway, Pearl, Wall, Chatham, and Greenwich Streets ; this last has been formed by embankments on the ri- ver Hudson, and continues from the Battery, in nearly a direct line, for two miles, to the State Prison, which is enclosed by a wall, from sixteen
34 THE TRAVELLER'S
to twenty feet high. The building comprehends a number of subdivisions and apartments, for different purposes ; the whole exhibiting a front and rere of three hundred and seven feet. The edifice is wholly built of hard stone, the walls thick, and the grates of stout iron bars, steeled and hardened. It is three stories high. The building is covered with slate, and in the centre, over a handsome pediment, stands an elegant cu- pola, which commands a pleasing view. Other streets and commodious wharfs have also been formed, advancing still further on the river. Broadway begins at a point formed by the conflu- ence of East and Hudson rivers, and extends in a due north line, along the height of ground be- tween them. It is seventy feet wide, and has a number of handsome and elegant houses on each side, and is the most agreeable and pleasant street in the city. Water and Queen Streets, Hanover Square and Dock Street, are very con- veniently situated for business. On the south end is an elegant brick building, intended for the ac- commodation of the Governor. On the west side, and opposite Wall Street, stands Trinity Church, with an excellent chime of bells, built in the Gothic style, and exactly similar to the one de- stroyed by fire, in the time of the Revolution, when more than one third of the city was laid in ruins. At some distance higher up, and on the west side also, is St. Paul's church, a noble building, with an elegant steeple, though consi- derably too large when compared with the whole church. It stands at the entrance of a large tri- angular area, called the Park, railed in, and or- namented with walks and trees. On the north side of this place stands the Bridewell, the Alms House, and the County Jail; and on the east
POCKET COMPANION. 35
the New Theatre. Federal Hall is situated at the head of Broad Street, dividing Wall Street. It is a magnificent building, and admired for its beauty, variety, and magnificence of architecture ; its front appears to great advantage, in which is a gallery twelve feet deep, guarded by an excel- lent handsome iron railing. A part of the ground floor is an open hall, paved with broad flat stones : adjoining are the courts of judicature, and convenient offices. King's College, incor- porated in 1787, by the name of Columbia Hall, is an elegant stone edifice, three stories high, containing twelve apartments in each, a chapel, hall, library, museum, anatomical theatre, and a school for experimental philosophy. It is situ- ated between the Broadway and Greenwich Street, beyond St. Paul's Church, on a dry gravelly soil, about one hundred and fifty yards from the bank of theHudson, commanding an extensive and most beautiful prospect. Among the other public buildings are, five Episcopal churches (includ- ing Trinity and St. Paul's), three Dutch churches, two Quaker meeting houses, one for Independents, six for Presbyterians, two for Lutherans, one for Calvinists, four for Baptists, three for Methodists, one for Roman Catholics, one for the French, one for Moravians, one for Universalists, and one Jews' synagogue. There are four market houses, well supplied with provisions and vegetables. The New York Bank, the United States' Branch Bank, the Merchants' Bank, and the Manhattan Bank, are in Wall Street on the north side, near Wil- liam Street. The coffee-house in Broad Way, is an extensive pile of building, and an ornament to that part of the west side, one hundred feet front, and four stories high. The Battery has been greatly enlarged, improved and beautified, form-
36 THE TRAVELLER'S
ing a most delightful walk ; and affording a charm- ing view of the Bay, the River, the Narrows, and nearly to Sandy-Hook. The city is now sup- plied with excellent water, by means of pipes, through which it is conveyed in every street, un- der the superintendance of the Manhattan Com- pany.
In the vicinity of the city are a number of public gardens and places of entertainment, for the accommodation of the citizens, who have been long distinguished for their gaiety, politeness, and affability. This city is of antiquity (in this quar- ter of the world) as appears from a charter grant- ed in April, 1686, which designates it as " an ancient city," and " having anciently been a bo- dy politic and corporate." Its present charter is dated January the 15th, 1730, and divides the ci- ty into seven wards.
GOVERNOR'S ISLAND,
Opposite the city, is strongly fortified, and a place of considerable defence against an enemy. On Bedloe's Island are an hospital and lazaretto.
There are, in New- York, a number of bene- volent, literary, musical, and national institutions ; among which are, the University of the State, New- York Society Library, Agricultural Society, New-York Hospital, City Dispensary, Lying-in- Hospital, Marine, Mechanics, Columbia, Anacre- ontic, St. Cecilia, Harmonical and Uranian So- cieties ; Tammany, St. George's, St. Andrew's, St. Patrick's, German, and Caledonian National Societies ; Masonic Lodges, &c. This City is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, seven Aldermen (one for each ward), seven Assistants, one She-
POCKET COMPANION. 37
riff, one Coroner, one Common Clerk, one Cham- berlain, one High Constable, sixteen Assessors, seven Collectors, sixteen Constables, and one Marshal. All the officers must be freeholders, and inhabitants of the city.
The new, and improved parts of the city, add greatly to its beauty and healthiness, and encrease its extent nearly one third. The new streets are parallel to each other, and intersected by others at right angles : some of them are very spacious.
The situation of the city is both healthy and pleasant. Surrounded nearly on all sides by wa- ter, it is refreshed with cool breezes in summer.
ROAD FROM PHILADELPHIA
TO THE
CITY OF WASHINGTON,
IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.
THE UNITED STATES LABORATORY, &c.
Are situated on the west side of the road, and on the Bank of the Schuylkill river, about three miles from Philadelphia, upon a lot of ground purchased by the United States. The buildings are very extensive, and elegant: they consist of a house for the superintendant of military stores, a laboratory, store houses, barracks, and a maga- zine. This place is considered as the grand de- pot of the arms, ammunition, and military stores of the United States, under the particular charge of a purveyor, a store-keeper, and assistants. A commodious wharf extends into the Schuylkill, for vessels to load or unload their cargoes.
GRAY's FERRY
Is near the fourth mile stone. At this place there is a floating bridge across the river, for the passing of which, tolls are established. The house and gardens are on the western bank of the Schuylkill, romantically situated, and on the north side of the road. Nature has done more for these gardens, in a pleasing variety, than art ; although great pains have been taken to improve, and form them to advantage. A small distance from these, towards the north, is the elegant
2 THE TRAVELLER'S
seat, and improved grounds of William Hamil- ton, Esq. called The Woodlands ; the great taste and judgment he has displayed have rendered this place the most beautiful in the vicinity of Philadelphia. The river, at this ferry, is about one hundred and fifty yards wide ; the naviga- tion, to its mouth, is good for vessels of conside- rable size ; but about six miles above this, at the Falls, it is only fit for boats.
COBB's CREEK,
Six miles and three quarters from Philadelphia, begins Delaware County, bounded north-east by Philadelphia County, south-east by Delaware River, south by the State of Delaware, and on the west and north-west by Chester County. The lands bordering on the Delaware River are low, and afford excellent meadow and pasturage : an immense number of cattle are brought from the western parts of Virginia and North Carolina, to be fattened here, for the Philadelphia market. The upland, particularly near the road, is well adapted for all kinds of grain, and may be de- nominated first rate.
DARBY
Is situated about seven miles and an half from Philadelphia ; on the east side of a creek of the same name, that empties into the Delaware a lit- tle above Chester. It contains about fifty or six- ty houses, and has a Friends' Meeting House.
RIDLEY CREEK
Is at thirteen miles and three quarters, over which is a toll bridge, established by an act of the legislature.
POCKET COMPANION.
CHESTER,
A borough and post town, and the capital of De- laware county, is fifteen miles from Philadelphia, and situated between two creeks, Chester and Kid- ley, on the north-west side of the Delaware. It was incorporated in December, 1795, and is governed by two burgesses, one high constable, one town- clerk, and three assistants. The limits of this borough extend two miles along the river, and two miles from the shore, westward. It contains a court house, a jail, an Episcopal church, a Friend's meeting house, a market house, and a large brick school house. The first dwelling- house in Pennsylvania, was built on the scite of this town ; and the first colonial assembly for the province, was convened in this place on the fourth day of December, 1682 : a part of the old wall of the room still remains. This town af- fords an agreeable retreat in the summer ; and has genteel accommodations. It is much resorted to by company from Philadelphia. The bed of the Delaware has been considerably diminished, by the marshy islands having been banked, and dykes cut, which have converted them into rich and valuable meadows. In the neighbourhood is found the Asbestos,
MARCUS HOOK CREEK
Js eighteen miles and three quarters from Phi- ladelphia ; at the confluence of this creek with the Delaware, is a small town, containing about thirty houses, called Marcus Hook, where ves- sels are defended from the ice in winter, by long wharfs, or piers, made for that purpose.
4 THE TRAVELLER'S
THE STATE OF DELAWARE
Commences between the nineteenth and twen- tieth mile from Philadelphia. It is the smallest state in the Union ; and is part of the peninsula between the Chesapeak and Delaware bays. The road continues across this state through
NEW-CASTLE COUNTY,
Which is bounded on the north by Pennsylva- nia, on the east by Delaware River, on the south by Kent County, and on the west by the state of Maryland. It is a populous and well cultivated county ; being well watered by the Brandywine and Christiana Creeks, and their branches ; on which are four paper mills, two snuff mills, one slitting mill, and sixty for grinding grain, and se- veral fulling mills. The northern parts of this county are hilly and broken ground.
NAAMAN's CREEK
Is about twenty miles and a quarter from Phi- ladelphia : there is a bridge over it, where tolls are collected, according to law.
GRUBB's LANDING
Is nearly opposite to the twenty-second mile stone, and is on the bank of the river Delaware at some distance from the eastern side of the road.
BRANDYWINE CREEK
Is at the twenty-seventh mile, over which is a stone bridge. A fine range of mills, perhaps the cornpletest of their kind in the United States, are just below this bridge. In the neighbourhood of Wilmington are thirteen, which are capable of
POCKET COMPANION. 5
grinding four hundred thousand bushels of grain in a year. The navigation of this creek admits vessels carrying one thousand bushels of wheat to come close up to these mills, to load and tin. load, which is performed with great expedition, with the machines invented by Mr. Oliver Evans of Philadelphia : by means of which one thou- sand bushels have been carried to the height of four stories in four hours.
WILMINGTON
Stands at the twenty-eighth mile from Phila- delphia, though it may be said to extend from the Brandywine to the Christiana Creeks : it is a port of entry, and a post town, and is the most considerable and flourishing in the state. It is regularly laid out ; the principal part of it is on the north side of Christiana Creek, upon the south-west side of a hill, that rises one hundred and nine feet above the tide. On the west side of the town is a stone building, one hundred and twenty feet by forty, three stories high, for the reception of paupers ; and a large stone edifice, built for an academy. A bolting cloth manufac- tory and a distillery are carried on here. The public buildings are, besides those already men- tioned, a town hall, two market houses, two Presbyterian churches, one for Swedes, one for Quakers, one for Baptists, and one for Methodists. About the year 1736 this place was first built, and in a few years was incorporated. Its officers are, two burgesses, six assistants, and two constables. The Delaware Bank is established here, and has greatly aided the commerce of the town and the adjacent country.
THE TRAVELLER'S
NEWPORT
Is about four miles from Wilmington, and near the thirty-second mile from Philadelphia, on the north side of Christiana Creek, in a pleasant situ- ation, and has a considerable trade with Phila- delphia in flour.
STANTON,
Thirty-four miles from Philadelphia, situated within the forks of White Clay and Red Clay Creeks, is a place of little note. In its neigh- bourhood are some good flour mills.
CHRISTIANA BRIDGE
Is thirty- seven miles and three quarters from Philadelphia, and nine and a quarter from Wil- mington, situated on a creek of the same name, at the head of navigation. It was built by the Swedes in the year 1640, on the side of a hill, commanding a beautiful prospect of the surround- ing country. It contains about fifty dwellings, and a Presbyterian church. It is the principal carrying place between the waters of the Chesa- peak and Delaware ; and has a considerable trade with Philadelphia in flour.
IRON HILL
Is forty-two miles and an half from Philadel- phia. Over a part of this hill the road passes. It abounds with iron ore.
THE STATE OF MARYLAND
Commences at about forty-four miles and three quarters from Philadelphia.
POCKET COMPANION.
CECIL COUNTY
Is bounded north by Pennsylvania, east by the State of Delaware, on the south by Sassafras River, which divides it from Kent County, and on the west by the Chesapeak Bay and Susque- hanna River. The soil, and general productions of this county, differ but little from the adjoin- ing county in Delaware State. In many parts it is hilly and somewhat barren ; but in general yields, with proper cultivation, good crops of wheat and Indian corn.
ELKTON
Is forty-seven miles and a quarter from Phila- delphia, a post, and considerable trading town. It is situated at the head of navigation, on the forks of the two branches of Elk River, about three miles above French Town, where the pack- ets from Baltimore land and embark passengers, &c. to and from Philadelphia. Elkton consists of one principal street ; it has a court house, a jail, and an academy.
GRAY's HILL
Is on the east of Elkton, on the side of which, and in view of the town, is a bluff of soft sand, with strata of stone about an inch in thickness, which appears to have been in a state of fusion ; when broken, it has some resemblance to coarse earthen ware, or pantile brick.
NORTHEAST,
A small village, between the fifty-third and fif- ty-fourth mile, on the south side of the road, is pleasantly situated, on the east and north bank$
THE TRAVELLERS
of a little river of the same name. It has an Epis- copal church, and a Methodist meeting house.
CHARLESTOWN
Is fifty-six miles and a quarter from Philadel- phia, situated on the north-west side of North- east River, about four miles from the Chesapeak. From the market house, a beautiful prospect of the river, which here forms an extensive bay, presents itself. There is here a great herring fishery.
PRINCIPIO CREEK
Is at about fifty-nine miles and three quarters from Philadelphia. Extensive iron works are erected on this stream. In times of floods, it is rather dangerous crossing this creek, there being no bridge, and the bottom very stony, and rugged.
SUSQUEHANNA RIVER
Is at the sixty-third mile from Philadelphia. It is about a mile and a quarter wide at its mouth, a little below where the road crosses it, and navi- gable only about five miles for vessels of 200 tons burden ; and but a little further for boats. The water of this river is so remarkably clear (except in seasons of rains and floods) that in the deepest parts, the bottom can be seen, which is in gene- ral stony : and in many places, ledges of rocks appear above the surface of the water. A regu- lar ferriage is established here. After crossing
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the Susquehanna River, the traveller enters
HARFORD COUNTY,
Bounded on the north by Pennsylvania, on the cast by the Susquehanna River and Chesapeak
POCKET COMPANION.
Bay, on the south by Chesapeak Bay, and on the west by Baltimore County The soil of this coun- ty appears in many places poor; the low lands, near the bay, are, in general, the most fertile. The northern parts are varied with hills and broken ground, and produce abundance of good timber ; also, quarries of limestone, together with the soap stone, and isinglass stone.
HAVRE-DE-GRACE
Is on the west bank of the Susquehanna, near its mouth. It is a port of entry, and a post town. Its distance from Philadelphia is sixty-three miles and an half.
HARFORD,
Called also Busb Town, is at the seventy-fifth mile from Philadelphia, situated at the head wa- ters of Bush River, about seven miles south-east from Bellair, now the county town. In the vi- cinity of Harford is a large bed of yellow ochre, of an excellent quality. The situation is healthy and agreeable. In the neighbourhood are seve- ral neat country seats. There are two small streams, one on each side of the town, James's Run on the north-east, and Binam's Run on the south-west.
ABINGDON,
At the seventy-sixth mile, is a small town, pleasantly situated, on an eminence. The col- lege, which was a handsome building, called Cokesbury, in an airy and healthful situation, commanding a delightful and extensive prospect, Was burned in 1796.
, 9r°d
12
THE TRAVELLER S
exchange and a theatre in Holiday Street ; the places of public worship are, one for Episcopali- ans, one for Presbyterians in East Street, (lately erected, with two towers, and a handsome por- tico, supported by six pillars : It is well finished, and is one of the most elegant churches in the United States) three for Germans, one for Quakers, one for Roman Catholics, one for Nicolites, one for Baptists, and two for Methodists ; one of which is at Fell's Point.
The bason is on the south side of the town ; the harbour at Fell's point will admit vessels of five hundred tons burden. The situation of the town is low. Adjoining the town is a large mill, with four pairs of stones, each six feet in diame- ter, which can manufacture one hundred and forty barrels of flour in a day : about two miles west of the town is another large mill, with stones seven feet in diameter, capable of producing one hundred and fifty barrels in a day ; the wa- ter course, for a considerable distance, is cut out of the solid rock.
Baltimore was incorporated and declared a City by an act of the Legislature on the 31st of December, 1796. It is governed by a Mayor, and a city council.
PATAPSCO £rvtiR
Is near the one hundred and seventh mile, and about seven and a half from Baltimore. A ferri- age is established here. On crossing the Patapsco River, you enter
POCKET COMPANION.
IS
m
ANNE ARUNDEL COUNTY,
Bounded north and north-east by Baltimore County, on the east by the Chesapeak Bay, on the south by Calvert County, on the west and north- west by Prince George and Patuxent Counties. The soil of this county, particularly in the north- west parts, is in general rich, and well cultivated ; but it is light and sandy in the southern and east- ern parts, where there are numerous fine forests. Iron ore is found in this county ; two furnaces, with forges, are established, where pig and bar iron, and hollow ware, are manufactured.
■
ELKRIDGE LANDING
Is opposite the one hundred and seventh mile stone. It is a small village, situated on the south bank of the Patapsco River, from the ferry to the mouth of Deep Run. This place is celebrated for a superior kind of tobacco, called Kitesfoot.
PATUXENT RIVER,
The north-east branch, is at the one hundred and seventeenth mile, and the Main Branch is at the one hundred and twenty-first mile. On the east side of this branch, and on the south side of the road, are Snowden's iron works. The Patux- ent River empties itself into the Chesapeak Bay, about eighteen miles north of the Patowmac. It admits vessels of 250 tons to Nottingham, near- ly forty miles from its mouth. Crossing this ri- ver, you enter
PRINCE GEORGE'S COUNTY,
Bounded north-east and east by Anne Arundel and Calvert Counties, south by Charles County,
!
10 THE TRAVELLER'S
JOPPA,
Nearly opposite to the eighty-second mile, on the south side of the road, about a mile and an half distant (but not in view from the main road) is situated contiguous to the forks of Gunpowder River, on the east side. It contains an Episco- pal Church, which is the only public building in the town.
LITTLE GUNPOWDER RIVER
Is at eighty two miles and a quarter from Phi- ladelphia, on crossing which the traveller enters
BALTIMORE COUNTY,
Bounded north by Pennsylvania, on the south by Chesapeak Bay and Ann Arundel County, on the west by Frederick County, and on the east by Harford County. This county abounds with ore ; and iron works have been erected, which carry on an extensive manufacture of hollow ware, fkc. Coal mines have also been worked to some advantage. The soil, in many parts, is of but indifferent quality.
GREAT GUNPOWDER RIVER
Is at eighty-three miles and an half from Phi- ladelphia ; on each of the branches of this river, are several excellent mills. Between this and Bush River is Gunpowder Neck, so named from a tradition, that the Indians, who formerly lived on this tract, when they first procured a quantity of gunpowder, supposed it to be a vegetable seed, and sowed it, on this neck, expecting it to pro- duce a good crop. A ferriage is established here.
POCKET COMPANION. 11
BALTIMORE
Is distant ninety-nine miles from Philadelphia, situated on the north-west branch of Patapsco River, at a small distance from Chesapeak Bay. The entrance of the harbour is defended by Whetstone Fort, now called Fort M'Henry. The town is built around what is called the basin, one of the finest harbours in the United States. It is divided into two parts, by Jones's Falls Branch; over which are three wooden bridges ; the west- ern part is called u The Town," and the south- eastern part " Fell's Point." Ships of 500 tons burden can come up to the Point ; but only small vessels can come up higher. The situation of this city is low, particularly near the water side. The streets extend east and west along the north side of the basin ; these are intersected by others at right angles, except a few. The main street, Baltimore Street, is eighty feet wide, and about three quarters of a mile in length ; it is hand- some and well built ; other streets are improving and commodious.
Baltimore has made the most rapid progress of any town in the United States, and its situation for commerce renders it little inferior in respecta- bility to any, ranking as the third commercial port in the Union. The public buildings are, a brick court house, erected on an arch in the cen- tre of Calvert Street, a jail not far from the court house, three markets, a poor house, which stands on the north-west side of the town, the Maryland Bank in South Street, incorporated in 1794, the Branch Bank of the United States, at the corner of Baltimore and Gay Streets, the Bank of Baltimore, and the Union Bank; an
H
12 THE traveller's
exchange and a theatre in Holiday Street ; the places of public worship are, one for Episcopali- ans, one for Presbyterians in East Street, (lately erected, with two towers, and a handsome por- tico, supported by six pillars : It is well finished, and is one of the most elegant churches in the United States) three for Germans, one for Quakers, one for Roman Catholics, one for Nicolites, one for Baptists, and two for Methodists ; one of which is at Fell's Point.
The bason is on the south side of the town ; the harbour at Eell's point will admit vessels of five hundred tons burden. The situation of the town is low. Adjoining the town is a large mill, with four pairs of stones, each six feet in diame- ter, which can manufacture one hundred and forty barrels of flour in a day : about two miles west of the town is another large mill, with stones seven feet in diameter, capable of producing one hundred and fifty barrels in a day ; the wa- ter course, for a considerable distance, is cut out of the solid rock.
Baltimore was incorporated and declared a City by an act of the Legislature 6n the 31st of December, 1796. It is governed by a Mayor, and a city council.
PATAPSCO tfrvtfR
Is near the one hundred and seventh mile, and about seven and a half from Baltimore. A ferri- age is established here. On crossing the Patapsco River, you enter
POCKET COMPANION. 1J
ANNE ARUNDEL COUNTY,
Bounded north and north-east by Baltimore County, on the east by the Chesapeak Bay, on the south by Calvert County, on the west and north- west by Prince George and Patuxent Counties. The soil of this county, particularly in the north- west parts, is in general rich, and well cultivated ; but it is light and sandy in the southern and east- ern parts, where there are numerous fine forests. Iron ore is found in this county ; two furnaces, with forges, are established, where pig and bar iron, and hollow ware, are manufactured.
ELKRIDGE LANDING
Is opposite the one hundred and seventh mile stone. It is a small village, situated on the south bank of the Patapsco River, from the ferry to the mouth of Deep Run. This place is celebrated for a superior kind of tobacco, called Kitesfoot.
PATUXENT RIVER,
The north-east branch, is at the one hundred and seventeenth mile, and the Main Branch is at the one hundred and twenty-first mile. On the east side of this branch, and on the south side of the road, are Snowden's iron works. The Patux- ent River empties itself into the Chesapeak Bay, about eighteen miles north of the Patowmac. It admits vessels of 250 tons to Nottingham, near- ly forty miles from its mouth. Crossing this ri- ver, you enter
PRINCE GEORGE'S COUNTY,
Bounded north-east and east by Anne Arundel and Calvert Counties, south by Charles County,
14 THE TRAVELLER'S
east by the Patowmac and the territory of Co- lumbia, and north-west by Montgomery County. This county is beautifully diversified with plea- sant hills : the soil is rich, and very fertile, pro- ducing excellent crops of corn and tobacco.
VANVILLE
Is a little beyond the one hundred and twenty- fifth mile from Philadelphia, and about fourteen miles from the capitol in the City of Washington. It is pleasantly situated upon an eminence, which affords agreeable and extensive prospects, at the foot of which is Pine Run.
BLADENSBURG
Is nearly opposite the one hundred and thirty- third mile from Philadelphia, and about six miles from the capitol in the City of Washington, at a small distance from the road, on the south side, at the confluence of the north-west and north-east branches of the Eastern branch of the Patowmac, and at the head of navigation, about eight miles from the Patowmac. It is one long street ; is a post town, and has a ware-house for the inspec- tion of tobacco. Immediately after crossing the northwest branch, a new road has been opened in a straight line for about one mile and three quar- ters to the eastward of the old road, and one quarter of a mile shorter distance.
THE TERRITORY OF COLUMBIA
Commences near the one hundred and thirty- fifth mile from Philadelphia. This District com- prehends a tract of country, ten miles square, ex- tending on both sides of the Patowmac, ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia for
POCKET COMPANION. 15
the scite of a National City. The land, in this territory, is in general level ; though varied with gradual and gentle risings, which contribute to its beauty, convenience and health. The soil, in most parts, is not very rich ; but is well watered by springs and streams.
CITY OF WASHINGTON,
By virtue of an act of Congress, passed at New-York in the year 1789, became the seat of government of the United States, in the year 18G0, and Congress held their first session in it, in December, of that year : during the preceding summer the papers, books, he. belonging to the public offices, were removed, preparatory to the meeting of Congress : the necessary buildings for each department, being either unfinished or scarcely begun, temporary situations were ob- tained for depositing the records, &c. and trans- acting the general business ; this gave rise to a great misfortune ; for the building occupied by the Department of War, having taken fire on the evening of the eighth of November, 1800, it was consumed, with every book, paper and record in the secretary's office, relative to the re- volutionary war, as well as all official documents of military transactions under the present govern- ment ; and on the twentieth of January following, a fire was discovered in a part of the building oc- cupied by the Treasury Department, wherein a number of papers, &c. were destroyed. These offices now occupy the buildings originally in- tended for their use.
This city is on a grand scale, extending from the Eastern branch, to Rock Creek, which di- vides it from George Town ; being about four
Ifl THE TRAVELLER'S
miles and an half through the Pennsylvania Avenue ; and from the Patowmac, north-eastward, about two miles and an half. It is laid out into a great number of streets extending due east and west; these are crossed by others, more nume- rous, at right angles, north and south : In addi- tion to these, in various directions, are large and airy streets, or avenues, from one hundred and thirty, to one hundred and sixty feet wide ; these are named after the individual fifteen states, pre- vious to the admission of Tennessee. These streets, at each of their intersections with each other, and the subordinate intersections, form spacious open squares, intended for the free cir- culation of pure and wholesome air. Five of these spacious avenues diverge from the Presi- dent's house, viz. Pennsylvania, New- York, Ver- mont, Connecticut, and Sixteenth Street, west. Seven form rays from the Capitol, viz. North Capital, Delaware, Maryland, East Capitol, Penn- sylvania, New-Jersey, and South Capitol ave- nues. The streets, extending east and west, are designated by the letters of the alphabet, begin- ning at the south and advancing north, a, h, c, dy &c. and those from north to south are nume- rically numbered, east and west from the Capitol. This city, although in an infant state, contains upwards of seven hundred and seventy houses, many of which are built in a superior style, dis- persed in various parts of this extensive and ele- gant spot. It presents the prospect of becoming one of the most flourishing cities in the world. The Pennsylvania Avenue is the only street that has had any considerable improvement, leading from Georgetown to the President's house, and thence to the Capitol, where it has a paved foot way. The Patowmac and Eastern branch, on the northern banks of which this city is situated,
POCKET COMPANION. 19
afford capacious harbours for admitting vessels of burden, or force, with safety and convenience. The Patowmac, by means of canals to pass the several falls above the city, opens an extensive inland intercourse for a very great distance.
The President's House, which is on a very ex- tensive scale, stands on a rising ground, possess- ing a most delightful view, not only of the river, but of the Capitol, (which is one mile and an half distant,) and of the most material parts of the city. The public offices are handsome and conveniently built.
The Capitol stands on a beautiful eminence, near the one hundred and thirty-ninth mile from Philadelphia, seventy-eight feet above the level of the tide, commanding a view of the whole city, and an extensive prospect of the country.
The waters of Tiber Creek and Reedy Branch sources may be conveyed, with facility, to any part of the city ; within its limits are a great num- ber of excellent springs ; and by digging wells, water of the best quality may readily be obtained.
George Town is one hundred and forty-two miles from Philadelphia, pleasantly situated on a num- ber of small hills, on the north-east side of the Patowmac, and affords an agreeable view of the river, towards Alexandria, eight miles distant, and of the country adjacent. An academy instituted in 1790 by the Roman Catholics, wholly supported by subscription, is in a flourishing state. George town is a post town and port of entry.
FINIS.
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