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TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA | VOL. IV.
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= . —
TRAVELS and DISCOVERIES
IN
NORTH anp CENTRAL AFRICA:
BEING A
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION |
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF H.B.M’S GOVERNMENT,
IN THE YEARS
1849—1856.
BY
HENRY BARTH, Pu.D., D.C.L.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES, Sc. §c.
IN FIVE VOLUMES.
VOL. IV.
LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS.
1858.
The right of translation is reserved.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FOURTH VOLUME.
CHAPTER LIII. Page
Departure for Timbuktu.— The Hilly North-Western Provinces of Bornu - - : Es is 1
My Situation at the Death of Mr. Overweg.— Pecuniary Circumstances.
—Inroad of the Tawarek. — Take Leave of the Sheikh. — Projects. — My Servants.—The two freed Africans. — The Méjebri.— Encampment in Kaliluwa.— Great Cold. —Stwa Bawa. — District of Koyam. — The old Inhabitant of Birni.— Fertile Districts. — The farming Village. — The Drain of the Komadugu. — Fractions of Tribes. — Character of the Komadugu.—Filbe Cattle-Breeders. — Site of Ghasréggomo, — The Ruins. —The Komadugu at Zéngiri.— Considerable Current, — Province of Manga. — Manga Warriors. — Manga Females. — Borzari. — The Bedde and their Komadugu, — Meeting with Mohammed ben A’hmed. — Daring Theft. — Wall of Gesma. — Immense Anthills. — Donari. — Reach again Zurrikulo.
CHAP. LIV.
The Mountainous Territory of Muniyé and its Governor - 42 Busy Scene at Ngarruwa. — Well of Berbéruwaé. — Notice of Auyék. —
Cheligiwa. — Natron Lake of Bane. — New and Old Bane. — Con- flagration. — Peculiar Character of Maniyo.— Palmgrove of Tanguré. — View of Gare. — Estate of Maniyoma.— Audience with Miniyémae — His Character. — Slave Hunting. — Site of Gutre. — Peculiar Site of W ashek. — Sacred Site of Gabata. — District of Keléno. — The Na- tron Lake or A’bye.— Lakes of Badamini.— Plan of the Oasis of
A4
sal
CONTENTS OF
Badamitni. — Varied Vegetation. — Fresh Lake and Natron Lake. — Survey of the Lake. — Governor of Badamutni. — Mirriya, a favoured Locality. — Character of Zinder. — Ground Plan of Zinder. — Impor- tance of the Town. — Pecuniary Supplies.
CHAP. LV. Page
Departure from Zinder. — The Border Region between the
Bornu and the Fulfalde Empires.—Second Stay in Katsena 84
Line of Route. — Highway Robbers less to be feared than rapacious
Governors.— An old Acquaintance.— Unusual Mode of drawing Water.— Conspicuous Valley, with dense Grove of Dampalms. — Ga- zawa again: —The Ex-governor and rebel Chief Sadiku. — Night’s March. — Arrival before Katsena. — Interview with the Governor. — The Ghaladima of Sdkoto. — New Stores laid in in Katsena.— Ap- proach of the rainy Season. — The Faki ‘Abd e’ Rahman.— His Argu- ments in favour of Polygamy. — Unforeseen Difficulty. — Conduct of the Governor of Katsena,
CHAP. LVI.
Journey from Katsena to Sdkoto - - - - 105
Setting out from Katsena. — The Doréwa Tree. — Tobacco and Yams, —
Great Detour —on account of hostile Army. — Kilkada. Karayé — Expeditionary Corps. — Karrefi and its Fortifications. — An agreeable Incident.— Unsafe District. — Town of Zékka. — Desertion of Servant. — Dangerous Night’s March. — Banka. — Zyrmi. — State of Zanfara. — Trade with Dodéwa Cakes.— Dichi.— Market of Badarawa. — The Zanfarawa and Goberawa.— Tribute of Katsena. — First Radu. — San- sanne ‘Aisa, — Night’s March through the Wilderness of Gandumi. — Arrival in Gawasi.— First Meeting with ‘Aliyu.— Kind Reception. —Presents, how reccived.— Letter of Franchise. — Arrival at Wurno.
CHAP. LVII.
Residence in Wurno = - “ . - 143
Superior Position of the Falbe. — Their Origin and Intermixture with
other Tribes.— Different Nationalities absorbed by them.— Their Divi- sions. — Progress of the Tribe from the West. — Fulbe in Sixteenth Century. — Rise of Sheikh ‘Othman the Reformer. — Sultan Bello. —
*
THE FOURTH VOLUME. Vu
Present State of the Empire. — My Quarters in Wurno. — General Cha- racter of Wurno.— Particular Description. — Ground Plan of Wurno.— Unsafe State of the Province. — Dread of the Gdéberawa. — Gloomy Prospects for my Journey. — Occupation. — Aspect of the Country. — Captain Clapperton’s Route. — Fine Valley of Bamairna. — Excursion to Sékoto.— Appearance of the Town.— The Syllebawa and their Chief Hamedu. — Clapperton’s Death.— The Valley of Sdékoto. — Ground Plan of Sékoto. — Return of the Sultan.— Musical Presents. —- My Friend ‘Abd el Kader of A’gades.— Literary works of ‘Abd Allahi and Bello. — Death of the Ruler of Masina.
CHAP. LVIIIL.
Page State of Insecurity along the most frequented Highroad. — Gando - - - - - - - 189
Departure from Wurno.— Leave Sdkoto.— Heavy rain. — Fields of Yams. — Bodinga. — Dendi. — Shagali.— Sefiina. — Character of Gan- do; Ground Plan. — The Sultan Khalilu. — Difficult Transactions. — A’hmed Baba’s History of Songhay. — Climate of Gando. — Extent of Empire.
CHAP. LIX.
The Province of Kebbi and its River.— The Valley of Fégha.— Reach the Niger - - - - 204
Leave Gando. — Extensive Rice-Grounds. — Kambasa. — Swampy Valley with Rice-Grounds, — Gaiimaché. — Unsafe State of the Country, — Gilumbé, rich Vegetation. — Solitary Pilgrim.— Kardi. — Hausawa.— Birni-n-Kebbi. — Situation at the Brink of the wide swampy Valley.— ‘Othman Zaki. — Kéla, and its Governor. — Jaggurt. — Zogirma and its Governor. — Dangerous Road. — New Companions. — Tilli.— A Day in the Wilderness. — Site of Birni-n-Débe.— Dallul Mauri. — Shallow Vales. — The Valley of Fogha. — The Salt of Fogha.— Cha. racter of Fogha People.— Importance of Fogha in Ethnological Respect. — Plenty of Kola Nuts, but no Corn. — Unexpected Generosity. — Dense Forest.— A Solitary Limtini. — Béso. — Garbo. — Lanadéji.— Peculiar Cornstacks. — Songhay Farming Hamlets. — Avoid Tamkala, — Short Marches. — Tondifa.— Reach the Niger.— Aspect of the River. — Large Canoes.— Town and Market of Say.— State of Market. — Traffic. — Governor of Say. — No Songhay Interpreter.
Vill CONTENTS OF
CHAP. LX. Page The hilly Country of Gurma . - - - 250
Leave Say. — Low Situation. —Sandwind and heavy Thunderstorm. — Town of Champagoére. — Architecture. — Mohammed Galaijo. — His Residence. — His former State. — His new Settlement. — His Court. —~ The Gurma and the Songhay. — Songhay Towns. — Torrent Gérebi. — Champalawel, and its Governor. —Guro Caravan. — Smelting Fur- naces. — Bangapelle. — Elephant Traces. — Bosebaugo, — River Sirba. — Frail Raft. — Smoking Disposition. — Mode of carrying Water. — Country beyond the River. — Bundére.— Denga. — Fine Timber for Boat building. —Sebba, Capital of Yagha.— Description of Huts. — Reception by Governor. — Provisions. — Holiday. — The Kadhi.
CHAP. LXI.
Province of Libtako. — South-eastern Limit of the Range of the Commerce of Timbuktu - - - 281
Plenty of Water-Courses. — Character of Country. — Namantigu. — The Arab from the West. — Wandering Fuilbe. —Tumpénga, and Re- formatory Struggle. — Unhospitable Reception. — Dore, capital of Lib- tako. — Importance of Market of Dore. — Difficulty of supplying my Wants. — MOsi traders. — Drought. — Anarchy. — Various Names of Dore. — Interesting Relations of Water Communication, — Political Situation. — Delay.— News from Timbaiktu.— Unlucky Fate of a Letter.
CHAP. LXII.
Unsettled Provinces obstructed by Nature, and infested by
Man. — A/ribinda. — Hémbori - - - - 298 Uncertain Distance from Timbiktu.— Departure from Dére.— The Ponds or “ Wéndu.” — Providentially detained in Walu, — Numerous
Sheets of Water. -— Difficult Watercourse.— Serious Encounter, — Crossing a Swamp. — A/ribinda. — Filiyo, a Songhay Village. — Inde- pendent Character of Inhabitants. —- Tinge. — Ground Plan of Dwelling. — Character of Inhabitants. — Habits of Industry. — Heavy Rains. — Caillié’s Kissour.— Filbe Cattle Breeders. — Hémbori.-—— The Black Worm. — Kibo. — District Tondi. — Craftiness of El Walati. — March of Red Worms. — Isolated Mounts. — Native Dwellings. — Daina. — Governor of Dalla. —Mundéro.— Curious Thatchwork.— Hombori Range. — Variety of Huts of I’sayé. — Approach Hombori Mountains. — Castellated Mounts. — Bone.
en
THE FOURTH VOLUME. 1X
CHAP. LXIII. Page Iméshagh or Tawarek Encampments South of the Niger.— Lakes and Backwaters of the Great River - - 8388
Visit Encampment. — Tawarek Tents and Comforts. — A Cascade. — Apparel, — Conduct of El Walati. — District of Imeggélelé. — Native Horse Dealers. — Bélé, Chief of the Haw-n-A’dak. — Tawarek Women and Boys. — Presents. —Camels knocked up.— District of Minta. — Bambara or Hudari. — Its Importance. — Personal Relations. — The Méhedi expected. — The Chief Somki.
CHAP. LXIV.
The Network of Creeks, Backwaters, and Lakes belonging to the Niger. — Sarayamo. — Navigation to Kabara - 361
Creek of Bambara. — Character of Bambara. — Great Heat. — Indiscreet Inquiries. — Lake Nyéngay.— Character of Country.— Somki’s Camp. — Mohammed Bonyami.— Town of Sarayamo.— Various Performances, — Embark on the Creek. — Character of Creek. — Good Fish. — Very winding Course. — Wide open Branch. — Animated Scenery. — Town of Banay. — Island of Kora. — Sanyare. — Enter the principal Branch of Niger. — Majestic Scenery.
CHAP. LXV.
Arrival at KAbara. — Entrance into Timbiktu - - 391
Tasakal. — Koréme.— Large Number of Boats. — Branch of Koréme. — Arrival at Kabara. — Description of Kabara,— The Inspector of the Harbour. — Unwelcome Visitors.— Interview with Sidi A’lawate. — Approach to Timbiktu.— Momentous Meeting. — Entrance into Timbiktu. | |
CHAP, LXVI.
General Observations on the History of Songhay and Tim- biktue - - - - - » - 406 _A’hmed Baba, the Historian. — His Authority. — Origin of Timbuktu. — Form of Name. —Sonni ‘Ali. — Haj Mohammed A/’skia. — Condition of Songhay Empire, — List of Provinces. — Power of the Governors.
xX CONTENTS OF
— Despotic Rule. — Heir Apparent. — Political Condition of Songhay. — Intercourse with Egypt.— Commerce. — Army, — The Ruma. — Po- litical Situation of Timbaktu. — Latest Events,
CHAP. LXVII. Page First Month of Residence in Timbiktu - - - 437
Awkward Position. — Presents to Sidi A’lawate. — View of the Town. — Caillié’s Sketch.— Purchase of Calico.—The Name for Cotton mentioned by El Bekri. — First Trial. — Firmer Position. — Different Meaning of Words in different States of Society. — Letter to El Bakay. My own Quarters. — False Prospects of Home Journey. — First Inter- view with the Sheikh. — Major Laing. — Presents. — Illness. — Orders from Hamda-Allahi. — Intrigues successfully overcome. — Night’s Watch.
CHAP. LXVIII.
First Residence in the Desert. — Political Combinations.— Great Mosque. — Ground Plan of the Town - - 463
Leave the Town.— The Camp. — Political Schemes. — Attempt at Pro- selytism. — Return to Town. — Movements of the Fulbe. — Annoying Circumstances. — Excursion to Kabara, — Note on the Royal Residence in Hamda-Allahi.— A few Palm-trees.— The Great Mosque. — Ground Plan of the Town. — Circumference. — Wall. — The Different Quarters of the Town. — Inhabitants. — Another Stay in the Camp. — Sand-eating. — Private Life in Camp. — Tediousness of Position.
CHAP. LXIX.
Political State of the Country. — Dangerous Crisis - 489
Interruption of Caravan Trade. — The Tajakant.— Position of the Falbe in Relation to the Berber Tribes. — Dangerous Situation. — Officer sent from Hamda-Allahi to catch me.— Host repulsed. — Letter from Hamda-Allahi.— Interview with the Chief of the Tademékket. — Knowledge is Power. — Presents.— Large Troop of Bérabish Horsemen. — Letter and News from Europe. — Hostile Gathering. — Leave Town again.— An Embassy. — Return to Town. — A’wab’s Account of Mungo Park. — Letter of Franchise. Momentous Death of the Chief of the Bérabish ‘Ali Weled ‘Abéda, — Out to the Camp.
THE FOURTH VOLUME. XI
Chanting in the Desert. —Christian and Mohammedan Principles. — The Inundation. — Stream of running Water in the Desert. — State of Trade. — Small Tajakant Caravan. — Close of the Year.
APPENDIX I.
Page Present Condition of the Province of Zanfara - - 621 APPENDIX II. A few historical Facts relating to Gdber and Zanfara. — Filbe Tribes’ - - - - - - 526 APPENDIX III. Song of Sheikh ‘Othman - - - - pool APPENDIX IV. Partition of Kebbi. Kebbi according to its Partition between the Empire of Sdkoto and that of Gando - 5338 APPENDIX V. Part I. Towns and Villages of Déndina ~ - - - 538 Part II. A few Remarks on the Province of Y4éuri and on those of Mauri and Zabérma - - - - - 545
APPENDIX VI.
Information with regard to the Provinces of Gurma, Mési, and Tombo - - - - - - 550
X1i CONTENTS OF THE FOURTH VOLUME.
APPENDIX VII.
Page Pedigree of the Sheikh Sidi A’hmed el Bakay - - 566 APPENDIX VIII. Two Poems of the Sheikh El Bakay, wherein he satirizes | the Falbe of Masina - - . - - 568 Translation of the two Poems of A’hmed el Bakay - - 574 APPENDIX IX. Chronological Table of the History of Songhay and the neighbouring Kingdoms - - - - 579
APPENDIX X.
Fragments of a Meteorological Register — - - - 631
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
THE FOURTH VOLUME.
MAPS.
XII. Map of my Routes between Katsena and Say - XIII. Map of my Routes between Say and Timbiktu, in-
cluding the Survey of the Niger - - - PLATES. 1. View of Timbuktu from the Terrace of the Traveller’s House - - - To face Frontispiece. 2. The Komédugu at Zéngiri = - - to face 3. Salt-Lake near Bane - - - - » 4. Buwa-Kolosso - “ ° 2 2 ‘5 5. Washek - ° ° - . 6. Badamuni - - ° * - 7. Market of Sdékoto - = - - re 8. Valley of Fogha - ° - - “s 9. The I’sa (Niger) at Say - 2 P Ms 99
10. Songhay Village - - - Z 11. Mountains of Hémbori “ ’
12. Niger at Korome - - : : 13. Arrival at Kabara : . e a 14 Entrance into Timbuktu - - F
X1V LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
WOODCUTS. ’
Page
A’bbega and Dyrregu - - . - ae Dird’s-eye View of Site of Birni_ - - -. - 24 Repairing the Wall of Gesma - - - - 38 View of Gure - ~ . . 2 + “ot Ground-plan of Wiashek - - - - 4 - 60 Ground-plan of Oasis of Badamutni - - - «80 Ground-plan of Zinder - - . - - 80 Remarkable Fortifications of Kurrefi - - - 112 Ground-plan of Diachi . - - - - 123 Rudu, or elevated Sleeping Hut - - - - 128 My Quarters in Wurno_ - - - - - 157 Ground-plan of Wurno~ - ” - - - 162 ss Sdkoto - - - - - 182
mi Gando - . - - - 195 View of Gilumbé - - . - - - 210 Architecture of Champagore “ - - - 258 Front of Residence of Galaijo - - - - 254 Smelting Furnaces - - - - - 265 Ground-plan of Hut at Namantigu : - - 276 View of the Interior of same Hut - : - - 277 The Lamorde of A/ribinda : - - 506 Ground-plan of House in Tinge - - - - $11 View of Tinge~ - - - - - - $14 Isolated Cones of Hémbori Range - - = - 82a Native Huts and Corn-stacks . - - - 3825 View of Duna : - - - - - 3826 Peculiar Thatchwork - - - - - 3829 Hombori Range - - - - - - 38380 Variety of Huts at I’sayé - - - - - $831 Cliffs resembling artificial Fortification - - - 3834 Castellated Mounts - - Z : « 335 Interior of Imdshagh Tent - - = - 840 Mounts of Nuggera - - : F - 38492 Flat-topped Cones - - s - 346 View of Bambara = a E 2 Sigg Ground-plan of my Quarters in Timbuktu - - 449
Timbtktu 2 - : - 478
99
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
AFRICA.
CHAPTER LIII.
DEPARTURE FOR TIMBUKTU.—THE HILLY NORTH-WESTERN PRO= VINCES OF BORNU.
Tue death of Mr. Overweg, happening at a period when the prospects of the mission just began to brighten, induced me to relinquish my original plan of once more trying my fortune in Kanem and on the N.E. shores of the Tsad, as an undertaking too dangerous for me in my isolated position, and the results of which could not reasonably be expected to be great, even with the protection of a small force, in a disturbed country, in comparison with the dangers that accompanied it. Besides, such was the charac- ter of the horde of the Welad Sliman and their mode of warfare, that after having received the sanction of the British Government for my proceedings, and being authorised by them to carry out the objects of the mission as at first projected, I could scarcely VOL. IV. B
se ih ta eae bi \, ey ee Eo. { Laat cil 3 an
Z TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
venture to associate myself again with such a law- less set of people. I therefore determined to direct my whole attention towards the west, in order to explore the countries situated on the middle course of the great western river the I’sa, or the so-called Niger, and at the same time to establish friendly relations with the powerful ruler of the empire of Sd- kot6, and to obtain full permission for myself or other Europeans to visit the south-eastern provinces of his empire, especially A’damawa, which I had been prevented from fully exploring by the real or pre- tended fear of the governor of that province, to grant such a permission without the sanction of his lege lord.
The treaty which I had at length succeeded in
getting signed by the sheikh of Boérnu and his vizier on the last of August, together with a map of all the parts of Central Africa which I had as yet visited, and containing at the same time all the infor- mation which I had been able to collect concerning the neighbouring provinces*, I had forwarded home in the middle of October, addressing at the same time the request to H. M.’s consul at Tripoli, to send me, by a special courier to Zinder, a certain sum of money. The road which I had before me was long, leading through the territories of a great many dif-
* 'This is the map which was published by Mr. Petermann, in the account of the progress of the Expedition to Central Africa, adding from Mr. Richardson’s and Mr. Overweg’s journals, which I had sent home, an outline of those districts visited by themselves alone.
Cuap. LIII. PECUNIARY CIRCUMSTANCES. 3
ferent chiefs, and partly even of powerful princes; and as soon as I should have left Zinder behind me, I could not expect to find fresh supplies, the sum of money which I had received on my return from Bagirmi being almost all spent in paying the debts which we had incurred when left without means. A sum of 400 dollars, besides a box containing choice English ironware, had been some time before con- signed to a Tebu of the name of A’hmed Haj ‘Ali Billama: but instead of proceeding at once with the caravan with which he had left Fezzin, as he ought to have done, he staid behind in his native town Bilma to celebrate a marriage. The caravan, with about twenty horses and a hundred camels, arrived, on the 10th of November, without bringing me any- thing, except the proof of such reckless conduct; and as I could not afford to lose any more time in waiting for this parcel, I left orders that it should be for- warded to Zinder as soon as it should arrive. But never received it.
Nearly three fourths of the money in cash which we had received being required to pay off our debts, we had been obliged to give away a great portion even of the articles of merchandise, or presents, in order to reward friends who for so long a period had displayed their hospitality towards us, and ren- dered us services almost without the slightest re- compense ; so that, on the whole, it was only under the most pressing circumstances I could think of un- dertaking a journey to the west with the means then
Be2
4 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LI.
at my disposal. But, very luckily, a handsome sum of money was on the road to Zinder; I also expected to receive at that place a few new instruments, as the greater part of my thermometers were broken, and I had no instrument left for making hypsometrical observations. |
An inroad on a large scale, of a tribe of the Tawarek, or Kindin, as they are called in Bornu, under their chief, Musa, into the province of Muniyé, through which lay my road to Zinder, delayed my departure for a considerable time. This inroad of the hordes of the desert claimed a greater interest than usual, especially when considered in connection with the facts which I have set forth on a former occasion™, the Tawdarek or Berbers having originally formed an integral part of the settled population of Bérnu. These Diggera of Musa, who appear to have occupied these tracts at a former period, had evidently formed the firm intention of settling again in the fine valleys of the province of Muniy6, which are so favourable to the breeding of camels, that even when the country was in the hands of the Bérnu people they used to send their herds there.
At length, after a long series of delays, the road to the west became open, and I took leave of the sheikh on the 19th of November, in a private audi- ence, none but the vizier being present. I then found reason to flatter myself that, from the manner in
* See Vol. Hopi 27z.
y mrs <
} nd : : a} ™ = St : i r 7
Cuar. LIII. TAKE LEAVE OF THE SHEIKH. 4)
which [ had explained to them the motives which had induced me to undertake a journey to the chiefs of the Fulbe or Fellata, there were no grounds of sus-
picion remaining between us, although they made it
a point that I should avoid going by Kano; and even when I rejected their entreaty to remain with them after my successful return from Timbuktu, they found nothing to object, as I assured them that I might be more useful to them as a faithful friend in my own country, than by remaining with them in Bérnu. At that time I thought that Her Majesty’s Govern- ment would be induced to send a consul to Bérnu, and, in consequence, I raised their expectations on that point. But matters in Bérnu greatly changed during my absence in the west, and, in consequence of the temporary interregnum of the usurper “Abd e’ Rahman and the overthrow and murder of the vizier, the state of affairs there assumed a less settled
aspect. I concluded my leave-taking by requesting
my kind hosts, once more, to send a copy of the his- tory of Edris Alawéma, the most celebrated Boérnu king, to the British Government, as I was sure that, in their desire to elucidate the history and geography of these regions, this would be an acceptable present.
The vizier, in particular, took great interest in my enterprise, admiring the confidence which I ex- pressed, that the sheikh el Bakay, in Timbuktu, of whom I had formed an opinion merely from hear- say, would receive me kindly and give me his full
B 3
6 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LITT.
protection; and I did not fail to represent to them that, if the English should succeed in opening these great highroads of the interior for peaceful inter- course, it would be highly advantageous even for themselves, as they would thus be enabled to obtain those articles which they were in want of from the regions of Western Africa, such as kola nuts and gold, with much less expense and greater security; and they were thus induced to endeavour to derive a profit even from this my enterprise. The sheikh, who had formed the intention of undertaking a journey to Mekka, wanted me to procure for him some gold in Timbuktu; but, uncertain as were my prospects, and difficult as would be my situation, I could not guarantee such a result, which my character as a messenger of the British Government would scarcely allow. ‘The sheikh sent me two very fine camels as a present, which stood the fatigue of the journey marvellously, one of them only succumbing on my return journey, three days from Kukawa, when, seeing that it was unable to proceed, I gave it as a present to a native mallem. Having finished my letters, I fixed my departure for the 25th of No- vember, without waiting any longer for the caravan of the Arabs, which was soon to leave for Zinder, and which, though it held out the prospect of a little more security, would have exposed me to a great deal of inconvenience and delay.
Thursday, It was half-past ten in the morning
November 25th, . é. 1852. when I left the town of Kukawa, which
Cuap. LIII. PROJECTS. 7
for upwards of twenty months I had regarded as my head quarters, and as a place upon which, in any emergency, I might safely fall back upon; for al- though I even then expected that I should be obliged to return to this place once more, and even of my own free will made my plans accordingly, yet I was convinced that, in the course of my proceedings, I should not be able to derive any further aid from the friendship and protection of the sheikh of Bérnu, and I likewise fully understood that circumstances might oblige me to make my return by the western coast. For I never formed such a scheme voluntarily, as I[ regarded it of much greater importance for the go- vernment in whose service I had the honour to be employed, to survey the course of the great river from Timbuktu downwards, than to attempt, if I should have succeeded in reaching that place, to come out on the other side of the continent, while I was fully aware that, even under the most favourable circumstances, in going, I should be unable to keep along the river, on account of its being entirely in the hands of the lawless tribes of Tawdrek, whom I should not be able to pass before I had obtained the protection of a powerful chief in those quarters. Meanwhile, well aware from my own experience how far man gene- rally remains in arrear of his projects, in my letter to Government I represented my principal object as only to reach the Niger at the town of Say, while all beyond that was extremely uncertain.
My little troop consisted of the following indivi-
B 4
8 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIM.
duals. First, Mohammed el Gatréni, the same faith- ful young lad who had accompanied me as a servant all the way from Fezzan to Kukawa, and whom, on my starting for A’damawa, I had sent home, very reluctantly, with my despatches and with the late Mr. Richardson’s effects, on condition that, after having staid some time with his wife and children, he should return. He had lately come back with the same caravan which had brought me the fresh sup- plies. Faithful to my promise, I had mounted him on horseback, and made him my chief servant, with a salary of four Spanish dollars per month — and a present of fifty dollars besides, in the event of my enterprise being successfully terminated. My second servant, and the one upon whom, next to Moham- med, I relied most, was “Abd-Allahi, or rather, as the name is pronounced in this country, “Abd-Alléhi, a young Shiwa from Kétoké, whom I had taken into my service on my journey to Bagirmi, and who, never having been ina similar situation, and not having dealt before with Europeans, at first had caused me a great deal of trouble, especially as he was laid up with the small pox for forty days during my stay in that country. He was a young man of very pleasing manners and straightforward character, and, as a good and pious Moslim, formed a useful link be- tween myself and the Mohammedans; but he was sometimes extremely whimsical, and, after having written out his contract for my whole journey to the west and back, I had the greatest trouble in making
at Qa TY Pa es
Cuar. LIII. MY SERVANTS. i)
him adhere to his own stipulations. I had unbounded control over my men, because I agreed with them that they should not receive any part of their salary on the road, but the whole on my successful return to Hatisa. ‘Abd-All4hi was likewise mounted on horseback, but had only a salary of two dollars, and a present of twenty dollars. ‘Then came Mohammed ben A’hmed, the fellow of whom I have already spoken on my journey to Kanem, and who, though a person of very indifferent abilities, and at the same time very self-conceited on account of his Islam, was yet valued by me for his honesty, while he, on his part, having been left by his countrymen and co-religion- ists in a very destitute situation, became attached to myself.
I had two more freemen in my service, one, a brother of Mohammed el Gatroéni, who was only to accompany me as far as Zinder; the other an Arab ‘from the borders of Egypt, and called Sliman el Ferjani, a fine, strong man, who had once formed part of the band of the Welad Sliman in Kanem, and who might have been of great service to me, from his knowledge of the use of firearms and his bodily strength; but he was not to be trusted, and deserted me in a rather shameful manner a little beyond Katsena.
Besides these freemen, I had in my service two liberated slaves, Dyrregu, a Hausa boy, and A’bbega, a Marghi lad, who had been set free by the late Mr. Overweg, —the same young lads whom on iy re-
10 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
turn to Europe I brought to this country, where they promised to lay in a store of knowledge, and who on the whole have been extremely useful to me, although A’bbega not unfrequently found some other object
Li, Zg = SS Z ———— S Fi
A’bbega. . Dyrregu.
more interesting than my camels, which were in- trusted to his care, and which in consequence he lost repeatedly.
In addition to these servants, I had attached to my
pS ak Se Bal ern De he
Bae sk bis a
Cuap. LITI. THE TWO AFRICANS. ll
person another man, as a sort of broker, and who was to serve as a mediator between me and the natives; this was the Méjebri ‘Ali el A’geren, a native of Jalo, the small commercial place near Aujila, which has recently been visited and described by the Abbe Hamilton. He had travelled for many years in Ne- eroland, and had traversed in various directions the region inclosed between Sdkotd, Kand, Bauchi, Zariya, and Génja. But for the present, on my outset from Bérnu, I had not made any fixed arrangements with this man; but in the event of his accompanying me beyond Sdkoto, he was to have two horses and a monthly salary of nine dollars, beside being permitted to trade on his own account. Such an arrangement, although rather expensive to me consi- dering the means at my disposal, was of very great importance if the man did his duty, he being able, in his almost independent situation, to render me extra- ordinary assistance in overcoming many difficulties ; but, as an Arab, I only put full confidence in him
as long as circumstances were propitious, while his
wavering character as soon as dangers began to sur- round me did not put me in any way out of coun- tenance.
These people, besides an Arab, a so-called sherif, from Fas, who was going as far as Zinder, and who had likewise attached himself to my small party, composed the band with which I cheerfully set out on my journey towards the west, on the 25th of No- vember, being accompanied out of the town by the
12 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuae LIT.
Haj Edris whom I have had frequent occasion to mention. In order to get everything in readiness, and to be sure of having neglected no precaution to secure full success to my enterprise, I followed my old principle, and pitched my tent for the first day only a couple of miles distant from the gate, near the second hamlet of Kaliluwa, in the scanty shade of a batire, when I felt unbounded delight in finding myself once more in the open country, after a residence of a couple of months in the town, where I had but little bodily exercise. Indulging in the most pleasing anticipations as to the suc- cess of the enterprise upon which I was then em- barking, I stretched myself out at full length on my noble lion-skin, which formed my general couch during the day, and which was delightfully cool. Friday, This was one of the coldest, or perhaps November 26th. the very coldest night which I experienced in the whole of my journeys since entering the fertile plains of Negroland, the thermometer in the morning, a little before sunrise, showing only 9° Fahr. above the freezing point. The interior of Africa, so far removed from the influence of the sea (which is warmer in winter than the terra jirma), forms, with regard to the cold season, an insulated cool space in the tropical regions, in opposition to the warm climate of the West Indies and the coasts and islands of the Pacific and Indian oceans. We were all greatly affected by the cold. But it did us a great deal of good, invigorating our frames after the enervating
Cuap. LIII. THE FIRST ENCAMPMENT. 13
influence of the climate of Kukawa. We did not set out, however, before the sun had begun to impart to the atmosphere a more genial character, when we proceeded on our journey westward. The coun- try which I traversed, passing by the frequented well of Beshér, although already known to me from pre- vious travels, now presented a very different aspect from what it had done on my first journey from Kané to Kikawa,—those bleak and dreary hollows of black argillaceous soil being now changed into the richest corn-fields, and waving with a luxuriant crop of masdkuwa, while the fields of small millet (Pen- nisetum) stood in stubble.
We encamped near the well Stiwa-buwa, or, as it was called by others, Kabubiya, on the gentle slope of the rising ground towards the north, from whence the busy scene round the well, of cattle, asses, goats, and sheep being watered in regular succession, presented an interesting and animated spectacle, more especially, coming after and contrasted with the dull life of the capital. The well measured fifteen fathoms in depth ; and the inhabitants were so on the alert for gain that they thought it right to sell us the precious element for watering our camels. My whole party were in the best spirits, cheerful and full of expectation of the novelties, both in human life and nature, that were to be disclosed in the unknown regions in the far west. In order to protect ourselves from the cold, which had so much affected us the preceding night, we set fire to the whole of a large decayed tree, which, with
14 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
great exertion, we dragged from some distance close to our tent, and thus enjoyed a very moderate Sai of temperature in our open encampment.
I now entered Koydm, with its strag- gling villages, its well-cultivated fields, and its extensive forests of middle-sized mimosas, which afford food to the numerous herds of camels constituting the wealth of this African tribe, who in former times, before the Bdérnu dynasty was driven away from its ancient capital Njimiye by the rival family of the Bulala*, led a nomadic life on the pasture-grounds of Kanem. Having thus traversed the district called Wédoma, we encamped about noon, at a short distance from a well in the midst of the forest, belonging to a district called Gagada. The well was twenty-five fathoms deep, and was frequented during the night by numerous herds of cattle from different parts of the neigh- bourhood.
While making the round in the night in order to see whether my people were on the look-out, as a great part of the security of a traveller in these regions depends on the vigilance exercised by niglit, I succeeded in carrying away secretly the arms from all my people, even from the warlike Ferjani Arab, which caused great amusement and hubbub when they awoke in the morning, and enabled me to teach them a useful lesson of being more careful for the future.
Saturday, November 27th.
* See Vol. II. p. 276.
Cuar. LILI. DISTRICT OF KOYA'M. 15
Having taken an early breakfast — an arrangement which in this cold weather, when the appetite even of the European traveller in these regions is greatly sharpened, we found very acceptable—we pursued our journey, passing through the district of Garanda, with deep sandy soil, and rich in corn, cattle, and camels. A great proportion of the population consisted of Shuiwa, or native Arabs, who had immigrated from the East. As we proceeded on our march, the trees gradually assumed a richer cha- racter, plainly indicating that we were approaching a more favoured district. There was the ngilisi, or ha- meéd, a tree very common over the whole eastern part of Negroland, with its small leaves bursting forth from its branches ; the karage, or gawo, now appearing as a small tree of scanty growth, further on spreading out with a large and luxuriant crown not ceding to the ardéb or tamarind-tree; and the kérna, which, extending over the whole of these immense regions, is remarkable for bearing almost everywhere the same name.* The underwood was formed by the kdlgo and génda bush, which latter, however, did not seem to bear here that delicious fruit which had so frequently served to refresh my failing energies during my marches through other districts; and cold as had been the night, the sun even now was very power- ful during the mid-day hours, there being a differ- ence of 40°.
November 28th.
* See Vol. III. p. 348, note.
16 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIM.
We encamped after a march of about thirteen miles, having by mistake exchanged our westerly di- rection for a south-westerly one, near the well called Kagza*, and were very hospitably and kindly treated by a patriotic old man, a citizen of the old capital or birni of Ghasr-éggomo, who, when that splendid town was taken by the Fulbe or Fellata, in the year 1809, had fled to Waday, and had lived there several years among the Weldd Rashid, waiting for better times. This good man described to me, with a deep feeling of sorrow, the taking of that large and wealthy town, under the command of the Fulbe chiefs Mala-Rida, Mukhtar, and Hannima, when the king, with his whole host of courtiers and his nu- merous army, fled through the eastern gate while the enemy was entering the western one, and the populous place was delivered up to all the horrors accompanying the sacking of a town. What with the pleasant character of the country and the friendly disposition of our host, I should have en- joyed my open encampment extremely, if I had not been suffering all this time very severely from sore legs, ever since my return from Bagirmi, when I had
to cross so many rivers and was so frequently wet through.f
* The depth of the well measured twenty-two fathoms.
{ This is a complaint to which almost every European in these climes is exposed, and from which Clapperton suffered very severely. I found the best remedy to be mai-kadena butter, which is very cooling; but in the eastern part of Bérnu it is rarely to be met with.
Cuar. LIII. FERTILE DISTRICTS. 7 lea
- Pursuing still a south-westerly di- — \fonday, rection, our march led us through a November 20th. district called Rédani in regard to which, the state of the cultivation of the ground (the géro, the wealth of this country, lying in large heaps or ‘“bagga” on the fields) and the uninterrupted succession of straggling hamlets left the impression of ease and comfort. But we had great difficulty in find- ing the right track among the number of small foot- paths diverging in every direction; and in avoid- ing the northern route, which we knew would lead us to a part of the river where we should not be able to cross it, we had, by mistake, chosen a too southerly path, which, if pursued, would have led us to Gujeba. While traversing this fertile district, we were astonished at the repeated descents which we had to make, and which convinced us that these sandy swells constitute a perfect separation between the komadugu and the Tsdd on this side. The dis- trict of Rédani was followed by another, called Kan- galla, and, after a short tract of forest, a third one, of the name of Meggi, consisting mostly of argil- laceous soil, and not nearly so interesting as Rédani. We encamped at length, near a group of three wells, where, once a week, a small market is held. In the adjacent hollow a pond is formed in the rainy season. The wells were twenty fathoms in depth.
The district through which we passed to- Tuesday, day, in a north-westerly direction, seemed *°™?* 2%. to be rich in pasture-grounds and cattle. It was
vol. IV. C
18 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIII.
at the time inhabited by a number of Tebu of the tribe of the Daza, or rather Bulguda, who in former times having been driven from A’gadem, Bélkashi Farri, and Saw by the Tawarek, had found refuge in this district, where they preserve their nomadic ha- bits to some extent, and by no means contribute to the security of the country. Having been warned that along the road no water was to be had, we encamped a little outside the track, near the farming village of Gogordé, where the women were busy thresh- ing or pounding their corn, which was lying in large heaps, while the men were idling about. They were cheerful Kanuri people, who reside here only during the time of the harvest, and when that is over, return to their village Dimmarruwd. The ground hereabout was full of ants; and we had to take all possible care, in order to protect our luggage against the attacks of this voracious insect.
Wednesday, We now approached the komadugu of December Ist: Bérnu, presenting with its network of channels and thick forests, a difficult passage after the rainy season. Fine groups of trees began to appear; and droves of Guinea fowl enlivened the landscape. In order to give the camels a good feed on the rich vegetation produced in this favourable locality, we made even a shorter march than usual, encamping near a dead branch of the river, which is called Kuligu Gussum, 8.E. from the celebrated lake of Muggobi, which in former times, during the glorious period of the Bérnu empire, consti-
Cuar. LIU. GU/SSUM,—FRACTIONS OF TRIBES. 19
tuted one of the chief celebrities and attractions of the country, but which at present, being over- whelmed by the surrounding swamps, serves only to interrupt the communication between the western and eastern provinces. Allured by the pleasing character of the place, I stretched myself out in the shade of a group of majestic tamarind trees, while the man whom [ had taken with me as a guide, from the village where we had passed the night, gave me some valuable information with regard to the divisions of the Koydm, the present inhabitants of this region east of the komadugu, which had been conquered from the native tribe of the Sdé. He told me that the Kiye, or, as the name is generally pro- nounced in Bornu, the Kay (the tribe which I have mentioned in my historical account of Bérnu)*, ori- ginally formed the principal stock of the Koyam, together with whom the Maguni and the Farferé con- stitute the principal divisions, the chief of the latter clan bearing the title of Fugo. The Temagheri, of whom I have also had occasion to speak, and the Negalaga, fractions of both of whom are settled here, he described as Kanembu. But, besides these tribes, a great proportion of Tebti have mixed with the ancient inhabitants of this district, probably since the time of the king Edris Alawéma, who forced the Tebti settled in the northern districts of Kanem to emigrate into Bérnu. In connection with the latter
* See Voll itp. 274: c 2
20 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
wide-spread nation, my informant described the Tura (whose chief is called Dirkema, being a native of Dirki), the Débiri, or Dibbiri, (also spoken of by me on a former occasion), the U’nguma, and the Ka- guwa. The Jetko or Jotko, who live along the komadugu, west from the town of Y6, he described to me as -identical with the Keléti, the very tribe which is repeatedly mentioned by the historian of Edris Alawéma. Thus we find in this district a very interesting group of fractions of former tribes who have here taken refuge from the destructive power of a larger empire.
I took a long walk in the afternoon along the sheet of water, which was indented in the most picturesque manner, and was bordered all around with the richest vegetation, the trees belonging principally to the species called kardge and baggaruwa. Further on dum palms became numerous; and it was the more interesting to me, as I had visited this district, only a few miles further north, during the dry season. Guinea fowl were here so numerous that one could hardly move a step without disturbing a group of these lazy birds, which constitute one of the great- est delicacies of the traveller in these regions. A sportsman would find in these swampy forests not less interesting objects for his pursuits than the botanist ; for elephants, several species of antelopes, even including the ory# or tétel, nay, as it would seem, even the large addaz, the wild hog, besides an unlimited supply of water fowl, Guinea fowl, and
Cuar. LIL CHARACTER OF THE KOMA’DUGU. 21
partridges, would prove worthy of his attention, while occasional encounters with monkeys would cause him some diversion and amusement.
At present the water was decreasing rapidly *; but this part had been entirely dry at the begin- ning of September, when the late Mr. Overweg had visited it, and the conclusion then drawn by him, that the river inundates its banks in Novem- ber, was entirely confirmed by my own experience. There was a great deal of cultivation along this luxuriant border, and even a little cotton was grown; but a very large amount of the latter article might be obtained here with a greater degree of industry. Besides a village at a short distance to the $.E., in- habited by Koyam, and which bears the same name as this branch of the river, there is a hamlet, consisting of about thirty cottages, inhabited by Fulbe, or Fellata, of the tribe of the Hillega, the same tribe whom we have met in A’damawa. They seemed to possess a considerable number of cattle, and appeared to lead a contented. and retired life in this fertile but at present almost desolate region. But, unfortunately, they have been induced, by their close contact with the Kantri, to give up the nice manner of preparing their milk which so distinguishes the Fulbe in other provinces ; and even the cheerful way in which the women offered us their ware could not induce me to purchase of them
* Compare what Ihave said with regard to the periods of the rising and decreasing of this river in Vol. III. p. 474. c3
22 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LILI.
their unclean species of sour milk, which is prepared by means of the urine of cattle.
Beautiful and rich as was the scenery of this locality, it had the disadvantage of harbouring immense swarms of mosquitoes; and our night’s rest, in conse- quence, was greatly disturbed.
Winding round the swamp (for the na- ture of a swamp or kuligu was more apparent, at present, than that of a branch of the river ), we reached, after a march of about three miles, the site of the ancient capital of the Bérnu empire, Ghasr-éggomo, which, as I have stated on a former occasion *, was built by the king ‘Ali Ghajidéni, to- wards the end of the fifteenth century, after the dynasty had been driven from its ancient seats in Kanem, and, after a desperate struggle between un- settled elements, began to concentrate itself under the powerful rule of this mighty king. The site was visited by the members of the former expedition, and it has been called by them by the half-Arabic name of Birni-Kadim, the ‘ old capital,” — even the Bérnu people in general designating the place only by the name birni, or burni. The town had nearly a regu- lar oval shape, but, notwithstanding the great exagge- rations of former Arab informants, who have asserted that this town surpassed Cairo (or Masr el Kahira) in size, and was a day’s march across, was little more than six English miles in circumference, being encom-
Thursday, December 2nd.
* Vol. IIL. p. 644.
G ; os”
Cuar. LIII. SITE OF GHASR-E’GGOMO. 23
passed by a strong wall, with six or seven* gates; which, in its present dilapidated state, forms a small ridge, and seems clearly to indicate that, when the town was conquered by the Fulbe or Fellata, the attack was made from two different sides, viz., the south-west and north-west, where the lower part of the wall had been dug away. The interior of the town exhibits very little that is remarkable. The principal buildings consist of baked bricks; and in the present capital not the smallest approach is made to this more solid mode of architecture.} The dimen- sions of the palace appear to have been very large, although nothing but the ground plan of large empty areas can be made out at present, while the very small dimensions of the mosque, which had five aisles, seem to afford sufficient proof that none but the peo- ple intimately connected with the court used to attend the service, just as is the case at the present time; and it serves, moreover, clearly to establish the fact that even in former times, when the empire was most flourishing, there was no such thing as a médresé,
* The intelligent Arab Ben ‘Ali, in the interesting account which he gave to Lucas (Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p. 148), distinctly states the number of gates as seven; but it is remarkable that, in all the accounts of the taking of the place by the Fulbe, mention is only made of two gates, and it is still evident, at the present time, that the western and the eastern gates were the only large ones.
7 It must be this circumstance (which to the natives themselves, in the degenerate age of their later kings, appeared as a miracle) which caused the report that in Ghambart and Ghasr-éggomo there were buildings of the time of the Christians.
c 4
24 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Crap. LILI.
or college, attached to the mosque. The fact is, that although Bérnu at all times has had some learned
==
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men, study has always been a private affair, amongst a few individuals, encouraged by some distinguished men who had visited Egypt and Arabia. Taking into consideration the great extent of the empire during the period of its grandeur, and the fertility and wealth of some of its provinces, which caused gold dust at that time to be brought to market here in considerable quantity, it cannot be doubted that this capital con- tained a great deal of barbaric magnificence, and even a certain degree of civilization, much more so than is at present to be found in this country; and it is certainly a speculation not devoid of interest to imagine, in this town of Negroland, a splendid court,
e
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Cuar. LIII. RUINS.—THE KOMA’/DUGU. 25
with a considerable number of learned and intelligent men gathering round their sovereign, and a priest writing down the history of the glorious achievements of his master, and thus securing them from oblivion. Pity that he was not aware that his work might fall into the hands of people from quite another part of the world, and of so different a stage of civilization, language, and learning! else he would certainly not have failed to have given to posterity a more distinct clue to the chronology of the history of his native country.
It is remarkable that the area of the town, although thickly overgrown with rank grass, is quite bare of trees, while the wall is closely hemmed in by a dense forest; and when I entered the ruins, I found them to be the haunt of a couple of tall ostriches, the only present possessors of this once animated ground: but on the south-west corner, at some distance from the wall, there was a small hamlet.
The way in which the komadugu, assisted pro- bably by artificial means, spreads over this whole region is very remarkable. The passage of the country at the present season of the year, covered as it is with the thickest forest, was extremely difficult, and we had to make a very large circuit in order to reach the village of Zéngiri, where the river could be most easily crossed. I myself went, on this occa- sion, as far south-west.as Zaraima, a village lying on a steep bank near a very strong bend or elbow of the river, which, a little above, seems to be formed by the
26 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
two principal branches, the one coming from the country of Bedde, and the other more from the south. But, notwithstanding the great circuit we made, we had to ford several very extensive backwaters stretch- ing out, in the deeper parts of the valley, amidst a thick belt of the rankest vegetation, before we reached the real channel, which wound along in a meander- ing course inclosed between sandy banks of about twenty-five feet in elevation, and, with its rich vege- tation, presenting a very interesting spectacle. The forest in this part is full of tétel, or Antilope orya, and of the large antilope called “ kargum.” The few inhabitants of this district, although they do not cultivate a great deal of corn, cannot suffer much from famine, so rich is the supply of the forest as well as of the water. Our evening’s repast, after we had encamped near Zéngiri, was seasoned by some excellent fish from the river. However, I must observe here that the Kanuri in general are not such good hunters as the Hausa people, of whom a consi- derable proportion live by hunting, forming nume- rous parties or hunting clubs, who on certain days go out into the forest.
Having made a good march the pre- priaay, vious day, we were obliged, before at- Yecember 3rd. tempting the passage of the river with our nu- merous beasts and heavy luggage, to allow them a day’s repose; and I spent it most agreeably on the banks of the river, which was only a few yards from our encampment. Having seen this —
‘ “Sey 3 BP akin i I re " i 2 5 é £ . F i a «had \ ‘S Y ‘
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Cuar. LIL. THE KOMA’DUGU AT ZE/NGIRI’. oF
valley in the dry season, and read so many theories with regard to its connection with the Niger on the one side, and the Tsd4d on the other, it was of the highest interest to me to see it at the present time of the year, when it was full of water, and at its very highest point; and I could only wish that Cap- tain William Allen had been able to survey this no- ble stream in its present state, in order to convince himself of the erroneous nature of his theory of this river running from the Tsad into the so-called Chadda, or rather Bénuwé. Though the current was not very strong, and probably did not exceed three miles an hour, it swept along as a considerable river of about one hundred and twenty yards breadth towards the Tsad, changing its course from a direc- tion E. 12° 8. to N. 35° E. While the bank on this side formed a steep sandy slope, the opposite one was flat, and richly adorned with reeds, of different species, and luxuriant trees. All was quiet and repose, there being no traffic whatever on the river, with the exception of a couple of homely travellers, a man and woman, who in the simple native style were crossing the river, riding on a pair of yoked cala- bashes and immerged in the water up to their middle, while they had stowed away their little clothing inside those very vessels which supported them above the water; but notwithstanding their energetic labour, they were carried down by the force of the current to a considerable distance. Be- sides these two human beings, the river at present
28 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
was only enlivened by one solitary spoonbill (or, as it is here called, béja or kedébbu-bunibe), who, like a king of the water, was proudly swimming up and down, looking around for prey.
The following day we crossed the river ourselves. I had had some difficulty in concluding the bargain, the inhabitants, who belong to the Tebu-Zénghi%, making at first rather exorbitant demands f, till I satisfied them with a dollar; and we ourselves, camels, horses, and luggage, crossed without an ac- cident, each camel being drawn by a man, mounted on a pair of calabashes, while another man mounted the animal close to its tail. The scenery, although destitute of grand features, was highly interesting, and has been represented as correctly as possible in the plate opposite. The river proved to be fifteen feet deep in the channel, and about 120 yards broad ; but there was a still smaller creek behind, about five feet deep.
At length we were again in motion; but our dif- ficulties now commenced, the path being extremely winding, deeply hollowed out, and full of water, and leading through the thickest part of the forest — and I had to lament the loss of several bottles of the most valuable medicine, a couple of boxes being thrown
* I do not know exactly whether the ford has been called after this tribe ; but the name Zénghiri also occurs in other localities.
{+ These people wanted in general nothing but cloves. I how- ever succeeded in buying a sheep from them for eight gabaga, at the rate of eight dra each.
Cuar. LIU. . PROVINCE OF MANGA. 29
from the back of the camel. The forest extended only to the border which is reached by the highest state of the inundation, when we emerged upon open country, and, leaving the town of Nghurtituwa (where Mr. Richardson died) at a short distance on our right, we encamped a few hundred yards to the south of the town of Alaune, which I had also passed on my former journey.
Here we entered that part of the province of Manga which is governed by Kashélla Belal; and the difference in the character of this tract from the pro- vince of Koydém, which we had just left behind, was remarkable, the country being undulated in downs of red sand, famous for the cultivation of ground-nuts and beans, both of which constitute a large propor- tion of the food of the inhabitants, so that millet and beans are generally sown on the same field, the latter ripening later and constituting the richest pasture for cattle and camels. Of grain, Negro millet (Pen- nisetum typhoideum) is the species almost exclu- sively cultivated in the country of Manga, sorghum not being adapted for this dry ground.
The same difference was to be observed in the architecture of the native dwellings,—the corn stacks which impart so decided a character of peace and re- pose to the villages of Hausa, but which are sought for in vain in the whole of Bornu Proper, here again making their appearance. The Manga call them “sébe” or “ gusi.” The cottages themselves, although they were not remarkable for their cleanliness, pre-
30 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIII.
sented rather a cheerful aspect, the thatch being thickly interwoven with and enlivened by the creepers of various cucurbitaceze, but especially the favourite kobéwa or Melopepo. The same difference which was exhibited in the nature of the country and the dwellings of the natives, appeared also in the character of the latter, the Kanuri horseman or the Koydém camel-breeder being here supplanted by the Manga footman, with his leather apron, his bow and arrow, and his battle-axe, while the more slender Manga girl, scarcely peeping forth from under her black veil, with which she bashfully hid her face, had suc- ceeded to the Bérnu female, with her square figure, her broad features, and her open and ill-covered breast. I have observed elsewhere that, although the Manga evidently form a very considerable element in the formation of the Bérnu nation, their name as such does not occur in the early annals of the empire, and we therefore can only presume that they owe their origin to a mixture of tribes.
Having passed the important place of Kadagarruwa and some other villages, we encamped on the Sth near the extensive village Mammari, where the go- vernor of the province at that time resided.*
* Toethis province, although I do not know by what particular name it is called by the natives, belong the following places, be- sides Mammari or Mémmoli : — Katikenwa (a large place), Gubal- gorim (touched at by me on my former route) at a short distance to the S.E., Tafiyéri F., Keribidduwa, Mainé, Nay, Mammed Ka- nuri, Madi Killoram, Karé ngimduwé to the N., Kériwa, Dug- guli, Gidderam, Ngabdliya, Kajimma, Alatine, Nghurttuwa, Bam.
Cuar. LIII. PECULIAR CHARACTER OF MANGA. 31
A small watercourse joining the koma- — yonaay, dugu Watibe from the north, separates Pee the province of Kashélla Belal from another part of Manga, placed under a special officer, who has his residence in Borzdri. Close on the western side of this watercourse, which is only about thirty yards across, the Manga, at the time (in the year 1845) when, in consequence of the inroad of Waday, the whole empire of Bérnu seemed to be falling to ruin, fortified a large place in order to vindicate their national in- dependence against the rulers of the kingdom; but having been beaten by “Abd e’ Rahman, the sheikh’s brother, the town was easily taken by another kékana or officer, of the name of Haj Sudani. It is called Maikonomari-kura, the Large Maikonomari, in order to distinguish it from a smaller place of the same name, and contains at present only a small number of dwellings, but was nevertheless distinguished from its more thriving neighbour by a larger sup- ply of articles of comfort, such as a fine herd of cattle, well-filled granaries, and plenty of poultry, while the neighbouring province, which we had just left behind, appeared to be exhausted by recent exac- tions and contributions, the greater part of the popu- lation having even sought safety in a precipitate flight. The country, however, which we traversed on our march to Borzari was not remarkable in any way
The place Shégori, although situated within the boundaries of this province, forms a separate domain of Mala Ibram. ;
32 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIII.
for the beauty of its scenery, although the former part of our march led through a well-cultivated and
populous district; and the heat reflected, during the
middle of the day, from the bleak soil clad only with a scanty vegetation, was oppressive in the ex- treme, although it was the month of December. Thus I passed the walled town of Grémari* with- out feeling myself induced, by the herd of cattle just assembled near the wall, to make a halt, the ground here becoming excessively barren and hot. On reaching the town of Borzari, I preferred encamp- ing outside, although there was not the least shade; my heavy luggage and my numerous party ren- dering quarters inside the town rather inconvenient. The governor, to whom [ sent a small present, treated me very hospitably, sending me a heifer, a large pro- vision of rice, several dishes of prepared food, and two large bowls of milk. This excellent man, whose name is Kashélla Manzo, besides the government of his pro- vince, had to regulate the whole intercourse along this road, being instructed at the time especially to pre-
* T will here mention, as an instance how careful travellers, even those tolerably well acquainted with the languages of the country through which they travel, must be with regard to the names of places, that when first passing this town I asked a man its name, and, not having distinctly heard what he said, I asked another person who stood by; and he said “ mannawaji.” Sup- posing at the time that this was the name of the place, I wrote it down, but soon convinced myself that it meant nothing but “he
does not want to speak,” or “ refuses to answer,” and I then learnt —
on further inquiry that the real name of the town was Grémari.
Cuar. LIII. BORZA’RI. 83
vent the exportation of horses from the Bérnu terri- tory into the Hausa states.
The town, which is surrounded with a low crenel- lated wall and a ditch in good repair, is of consider- able size and well built, and may contain from 7000 to 8000 inhabitants; but there is no great industry to be seen, nor is there a good market. The wells measure ten fathoms in depth.
Our direct road from this point would have led straight to Zurrikulo; but an officer of the name of A’dama, who was to accompany me to Zinder, having joined me, I was induced to take a more south- erly road, by way of Donari, which constituted his estate; and I was very glad afterwards that I did so, as this road made me acquainted with the peculiar character of the territory of Bedde, which I should not otherwise have touched at.
The first part of our march led through — pyesaay, a more dreary tract of country, which was December 7th. neither very picturesque nor exhibited any great signs of industry among the natives; but after a stretch of a little more than eleven miles, large, wide-spread- ing tamarind trees announced a more fertile district, and a few hundred yards further on we reached the border of one of the great swampy creeks connected with the south-western branch of the komddugu, and intersecting the territory of Bedde, which we had now entered. We kept close along its border, which was adorned by fine, luxuriant trees, till we encamped at a short distance from Daddeger, a place inhabited by
VOL. IV. D
34 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LILI.
Bedde, and at that time forming part of the estate of Mala Ibram. The village is situated on a small mound close to the swamp or jungle; for the water is so thickly covered with forest, that no portion of the aqueous element is to be seen. It forms rather what the Kanuri call an ngaljam (that is to say, a swampy shallow creek or backwater, having little or no incli- nation) than a kulugu; and there can be no doubt of its connection with the great komadugu of Bornu. The natives call it at this spot Gojagwa*, and further on, Maje. They are pagans, and wear nothing but a narrow leather apron or fund round their loins}, with the exception of a few Kanuri, who are living amongst them, and who cultivate a small quantity of cotton, for which the banks of the swamp are very well suited, and would no doubt be extensively used for this pur- pose if the country were inhabited by civilized people.
The Bedde, according to their language, are closely related to the Manga, but, as far as I had an oppor- tunity of judging, are much inferior to them in bodily development, being not at all distinguished for their stature ; but it is very probable that the inhabitants of these places in the border district, who come into
* I almost suspect that this is the water of which Mr. Hutchinson, when in Ashanti, heard a report from the natives under the name “koumouda Gaiguina.” (Bowdich’s Mission to Ashantee, p. 213.)
{ What Koelle relates (Kanuri Proverbs, p. 82, text; p. 211, transl.) on the authority of his informant, that the Bedde, or Bode as he writes, wear wide shirts, “‘kalgu,” besides the fund, of course (as is the case also with the Marghi) can only have reference to those amongst them who have adopted Islam.
Ba ee
Cuar. LIU. THE BEDDE AND THEIR KOMA’DUGU. 35
continual contact with their masters the Bérnu people, are more degenerate than those in the interior, who, protected by the several branches of the komadugu and the swamps and forests connected with them, keep up a spirit of national independence, possessing even a considerable number of a small breed of horses, which they ride without saddle or harness, and in the same barbaric manner as the Musgu.
The district which we traversed in the wednesday, morning was distinguished by a great num- Pecember 8th. ber of kuka or monkey-bread trees, the first one we saw being destitute of leaves, though full of fruit; but gradually, as we approached a more considerable sheet of water, they became adorned with a profusion of rich foliage, and we here met several small parties laden with baskets, of an elongated shape, full of the young leaves of this tree, which, as “ kalu kuka,” constitute the most common vegetable of the natives. Besides the kuka, large karadge and kérna or jujube trees (Zizyphus), and now and then a fine tamarind tree, though not of such great size as I was wont to see, adorned the landscape.
We had just crossed a swamp, at present dry, sur- rounded on one side by fine fig trees and gerredh of such luxuriant growth that I was scarcely able to recognize the tree, and on the other by talha trees, when, about noon, we emerged into open cultivated ground, and were here greeted with the sight of a pretty sheet of open water, breaking forth from the forest on our left, and dividing into two branches,
dp 2
36 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LILI.
which receded in the distance. The Bedde call it Thaba-kendma. The water is full of fish, which is dried by the inhabitants, and, either in its natural form or pounded and formed into balls, constitutes an im- portant article of export. We met a good many people laden with it.
It was here that, while admiring this riverlike sheet of water, I recognized, among a troop of native travel- lers, my friend the sherif Mohammed Ben A’/hmed, to whom I was indebted for a couple of hours very plea- santly and usefully spent during my stay in Ydla, and for the route from Mozambique to the lake Nyanja, or, as it is commonly called, Nyassi. I for a moment hoped that it might be my fate, in the company of this man, to penetrate through the large belt of the un- known equatorial region of this continent towards the Indian Ocean. But as he was now on his way from Zinder to Kukawa, we had only a few moments allowed for conversation and the exchange of compli- ments, when we separated in opposite directions, never to meet again,—my fate carrying me westward, while he was soon to succumb to the effects of the climate of Negroland.
Three miles further on, turning a little more south- ward from our westerly direction, we reached the town of Géshiya, once a strong place and surrounded by a clay wall, but at present in a state of great decay, although it is still tolerably peopled, the groups of conical huts being separated by fences of matting into several quarters. Here we encamped
Cuap. LILI. DARING THEFT. 37
on the north side, near a fine tamarind tree, where millet was grown to a great extent. The south and west sides were surrounded by an extensive swamp or swampy watercourse fed by the komadugu, and, with its dense forest, affording to the inhabitants a safe re- treat in case of an attack from their enemies. All the towns of the Bedde are situated in similar positions ; and hence the precarious. allegiance of the people (who indulge in rapacious habits) to the ruler of Bérnu. The inhabitants of Géshiya*, indeed, have very thievish propensities; and as we had neglected to fire a few shots in the evening, a couple of daring men succeeded, during the night, in carrying away the woollen blanket in which my companion the Méjebri merchant “Ali el A’geren was sleeping at the side of his horse. Although he was a man of hardi- hood and experience, he was dragged or carried alcng to a considerable distance, until he was forced to let go his blanket; and, threatening him with their spear in case he should cry out, they managed this affair so cleverly and with such dispatch, that they were off in the dark before we were up to pursue them. It was a pity that these daring rascals escaped with their spoil ; but in order to prevent any further depredations of
* The billama, or mayor, of this town, who has subjected him- self to the authority of Bérnu, bears the title “ Mai ‘Omdr Béd- dema.” Fititi, the residence of the chief Babyshe, or Babtdji, and the chief town of Bedde, lies a short day’s march from here S.S.W. I have more materials of itineraries traversing this region; but they are too indistinct with regard to direction to be used for a topographical sketch of the country.
D3
38 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIII.
this kind, we fired several shots, and, with a large accordion, upon which I played the rest of the night, I frightened the people to such a degree, that they thought every moment we were about to ransack the town.
Thursday, Keeping along the north-eastern border of Pecember th. the swamp, through a fine country where the tamarind and monkey-bread tree were often inter- laced, as I have repeatedly observed to be the case with these species of trees, we reached, after a march of about three miles, the town of Gesma, which is girt and
defended by the swamp on the south and east sides, — the wall being distinguished by the irregularity of its pinnacles, if pinnacles they may be called, as repre- sented in the accompanying woodcut. The inhabi-
Cuar. LIL WALL OF GESMA—SILK-COTTON TREE. 39
tants, clad in nothing but a leather apron, were busy carrying clay from the adjacent swamp, in order to repair the wall, which, however, on the west side, was in excellent condition.
Close to this town I observed the first rimi, or silk- cotton tree, which in Bérnu Proper is entirely want- ing; and as we proceeded through the fine open country, numerous species of trees which are pe- culiar to Hausa became visible, and seemed to greet me as old acquaintances. I was heartily glad that I had left the monotonous plains of Bérnu once more behind me, and had reached the more favoured and diversified districts of this fine country. Small channels intersected the country in every direction ; and immense fishing-baskets were lying in some of them, apparently in order to catch the fish which, during the period of the inundation, are carried down by the river. But the great humidity of this district made it swarm with ants, whose immense and thickly-scattered hills, together with the dim bush, filled out the intermediate spaces between the larger specimens of the vegetable kingdom.
Having then crossed a tract of denser forest, we entered upon deep sandy soil, where the kuka became the sole tree, excluding almost every other kind, with the exception of a few tamarinds, for whose company, as I have observed, the monkey-bread tree seems to have a decided predilection.
Thus we reached Donari, formerly a considerable
place of the Manga, and surrounded with a low D 4
40 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIMIT.
rampart of earth, but at present greatly reduced, the inhabited quarter occupying only a very small pro- portion of the area thus inclosed. But a good many cattle were to be seen, and, lying just in the shade of the majestic monkey-bread trees which mark the place, afforded a cheerful sight. This was the residence of the Bérnu officer A’dama, who had accompanied me from Borzari, and who the previous day had gone on in advance to pass the night here. But having once made it a rule to encamp in the open country, I preferred the large though leafless trunk of a kuka at a short distance from the eastern gate, to a cool shed inside the town; and the heat was by no means oppressive, a cool wind blowing the whole day.
We exchanged the domain of the mon- key-bread tree for that of the dum palm, by giving to our course a north-westerly direc- tion towards Zurrikulo, the queen of the region of dum palms and the residence of the hospitable Kashélla Said *, passing at some distance on our way a com- fortable and populous little place, surrounded with a stockade, and bearing the attractive name of Kechi- duniya, “the sweetness of the world,” where a little market was held, to which people were flocking from all sides, male and female, with sour milk, ground- nuts, grain, earthen pots, young cattle, and sheep.
December 10th.
* His province comprises the following villages : — Chando, Giro, Ghasrmart, Kelleri, Gabchari, Bilaljawa, Nkibida, Lawandi, Dalari, Keri-zeman, Kabi, Gréma Dalarti.
Omar LI. © DONA/RI.—ZURRI‘KULO. ~ Al
é ~ In Zurrikulo I fell into my former route, which [ had followed in the opposite direction in March 1851, and, crossing the northern branch of the komadugu, which at present was two feet and a half deep, and following almost the same road, encamped the next day in Shechéri, the first village of the district of © Bindi.
42
CHAP. LIV.
THE MOUNTAINOUS TERRITORY OF MUNIYO, AND ITS GOVERNOR.
In Shechéri I left my former route, which would have taken me to Bundi and Mashena, and followed a N.N.W. direction, towards the mountainous province of Muniyd, which before the time of our expedition was entirely un- known. Passing through the district of Chejéssemo, to which Shechéri belongs, we entered a forest where the kusulu or magaria*, with its small berries, was very common, the ground being covered with tall jungle. We then reached the town of Ngarruwa, surrounded with a clay wall in decay, and here watered our animals. The wells were ten fathoms deep ; and crowds of boys and girls were busy drawing water from two other richer wells situated on the north side of the place. The path was also frequented by numbers of people who were carrying the harvest into the town, in nets made from the leaves of the dum palm, and borne on the backs of oxen. Further on, forest and cultivated ground alternated; and
-
December 12th.
* See what I have said about this tree in Vol. I. p. 522.
Cuap. LIV. THE WELL OF BERBE’RUWA’. 43
leaving a rocky mound called Miva, which marks the beginning of the north-western hilly portion of the Manga country on our right, we reached, after a good march of altogether about twenty-two miles, the rich well of Berbéruwé, a small miserable hamlet which lies at a short distance to the west.
The well, however, which was scarcely a fathom in depth, was surrounded by six fine wide-spreading tamarind trees at regular distances from each other, and afforded quite a pleasant resting-place. The well is important as a station for travellers, while the hamlet is so poor that it does not possess a single cow or goat. It still belongs to the province of the ghaladima, who about thirty years ago had a ca- ravan of from sixteen to twenty Arabs exterminated in this neighbourhood, when Mukni, the then ruler of Fezzan and one of the greatest slave-hunters of the time, penetrated as far as the Komadugu Waube. Sheikh ‘Omar also, when on his expedition against Zinder in order to subjugate the rebellious governor of that town (Ibrahim or [bram), encamped on this spot. The temperature of the water of the well was 66°.
On inquiring’ to-day for the small territory of Auyék or Nkizam, the situation as well as the name of which had been erroneously given by former tra- vellers, I learned that it is situated between Khadéja and Gummel, and that it comprises the following places: Tashina, U’nik, Shagatdé, Shibiyay, Belangu,
Badda, Rémeri, Sédngolom, Melebétiye and U’mari.
44 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIV.
Arnage, A band of petty native traders or dan- December 13th. gartinfu, who carried their merchandise on their heads, here joined our party. Their mer- chandise consisted of cotton, which they had bought in Diggera, and were carrying to Sulléri, the market of Muniyé, where cotton is dear. While proceeding onwards, we met another party of native traders from Cheligiwa, laden with earthenware. In the forest which we then entered, with undulating ground, the kardge was the predominant tree. Further on the road divided; and while I took the western one, which led me to Yamiya, my people, mistaking a sign which some other persons had laid across the path as if made by myself, took the easterly one to Chelugiwa, where Méle, the lord of this little estate, resided, so that it was some time before I was joined by my party.
The well (which, as is generally the case in this district, lies at the foot of a granite mount, where the moisture collects) in the afternoon presented an inter- esting scene, a herd of about 120 head of fine cattle being watered here ; and it was the more interesting, as the herdsmen were Fellata, or Fulbe, of the tribe of the Hirlége. The well measured two fathoms in depth; and the temperature of the’water was 80° at 1.20 p.m., while that of the air was 84°.
Tuesday, After a march of about six miles through
December 1h. a fine country, occasionally diversified by
a rocky eminence and adorned here and there by fine tamarind trees, we reached Sulléri, a considerable place consisting of several detached hamlets, where
Cuar. LIV. CHELU’/GIWA’.—NATRON LAKE. 45
the most important market in the territory of Mu- niy6 is held every Friday. The place contains about 5000 inhabitants, and was enlivened at the time by a considerable herd of cattle. Millet is grown to a ereat extent, although dum bush or ngille, with its obstructing roots, renders a great portion of the soil unfit for cultivation, and scarcely any cotton at all is raised, so that this forms an important article of importation. Towards the south lies another place, called Deggerari, and to the south-west a third one, called Digura. Granitic eminences dotted the whole country; but the foggy state of the atmosphere did not allow me to distinguish clearly the more distant. hills.
Proceeding in a north-westerly direction through this hilly country, and leaving at a short distance on our right a higher eminence, at the western foot of which the village of New Bune is situated, we descended considerably into a hollow of clayey soil of a most peculiar character. For all of a sudden an isolated date palm started up on our right, while on our left the unwonted aspect of a tall slender génda, or Lrica Papaya, attracted our attention, the intermediate ground being occupied by a rich plan- tation of cotton. Suddenly a large ‘“sirge” or lake of natron of snowy whiteness, extending from the foot of the height which towers over Btine, approached on our right, — the rich vegetation which girded its border, along which the path led, forming a very remarkable contrast to the barrenness of the “ sirge”’;
PN Le es ‘
A6 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
for the whole surface of the basin, which at present did not contain a drop of water, was formed of na- tron, while people were busy digging saltpetre, from pits about six feet deep and one foot and a half in diameter, on its very border. A short distance off, fresh water is to be found close under the surface, giving life to the vegetation, which bears a character so entirely new in this district; and I gazed with delight on the rich scenery around, which presented such a remarkable contrast to the monotonous plains of Bérnu. Wide-spreading tamarind trees shaded large tracts of ground, while detached date palms, few and far between, raised their feathery foliage like a fan over the surrounding country. The ground was clothed, besides, with “ retem,” or broom, and dum bush, with the Zamarix gallica, or “ tarfa,” which I scarcely remember to have seen in any other spot during the whole of my travels in Negroland. Ascending from the clayey soilon a sandy bottom, we reached the western foot of the eminence of Old Bune, which is built in a recess of the rocky cliffs on the western slope of the mount. But the village, which has already suffered greatly by the foundation of New Bune at so short a distance, and which is important only as the residence of Yeguiddi, the eldest son of Muniyédma, had been almost destroyed some time before by a great conflagration, with the exception of the clay dwelling of the governor, situated at the foot of the cliffs. It was just rebuilding,—only
eo
eK Te ee ey ae ee Lent
Cuap. LIV. NEW AND OLD BU‘NE. A7
the déndal (or principal street) being as yet fit for
habitation, while the rest of the place wore a very
cheerless aspect.
Returning, therefore, a few hundred yards in the direction from whence I had come, I chose my camping- ground on aneminence at the side of the path shaded by a majestic tamarind tree, and affording an open pros- pect over the characteristic landscape in the bottom of the irregular vale. Here I spent the whole after- noon enjoying this pleasant panorama, of which I made a sketch which has been represented in the plate opposite. I had rfow been suffering for the last two months from sore legs, which did not al- low me to rove about at pleasure; otherwise I would gladly have accompanied my companion ‘Ali el A’ge- ren on a visit to his friend Basha Bu-Khalim, a relative of that Bu-Khalim who accompanied Den- ham and Clapperton. At this time he was residing in New Bune, where he had lately lost, by another conflagration, almost the whole of his property, in- cluding eight female slaves, who were burnt to death while fettered in a hut. As conflagrations are very common all over Negroland, especially in the dry season, a traveller must be extremely careful in con- fiding his property to these frail dwellings, and he would do well to avoid them entirely.
A cold northerly wind, which blew in the wednesday, morning, made us feel very chilly in our December 15th. open and elevated encampment, so that it was rather
48 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIY.
late when we set out, changing now our course entirely, from a north-westerly into a north north- easterly direction. The whole neighbourhood was enveloped in a thick fog. The country, after we had passed the mountain Béro, which gives its name to the village Bérmari, became rather mountainous. The path wound along through a succession of irregular glens and dells, surrounded by several more or less detached rocky eminences, all of which were clothed with bush. The bottom of the valleys, which con- sisted mostly of sand, seemed well adapted for the cultivation of sorghum. We passed a large store of grain, where the people were busy pounding or threshing the harvested corn.
In many places, however, the ground was inter- sected by numerous holes of the fenek or Megalotis ; and at times clay took the place of the sandy soil. Numerous herds of camels enlivened the landscape, all of which belonged, not to the present owners of the country, but to the Tawarek, the friends and companions of the people of Musa, who had lately made a foray on a grand scale into this very province.
We encamped at length, after a march of about thirteen -miles, near the second well of Stiwa-Koldl- luwa, which was two fathoms in depth, and, unlike the first well, contained a good quantity of water.
The scenery had nothing very remarkable about it ; but it exhibited a cheerful, homely character, sur- rounded as it was by hills, and enlivened by herds of
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Cuar. LIV. PECULIAR CHARACTER OF MU’NIYO’. 49
camels, horses, and cattle, which towards evening gathered round the well to be watered ; and the cha- racter of peace and repose which it exhibited induced me to make a sketch of it.
Among the animals there were some excellent she- camels, which, as evening advanced, were crying and eagerly looking out for their young ones, that had been left in the surrounding villages. ‘The inhabit- ants, who treated us hospitably, seemed to be tolerably well off; and the feasting in my little encampment continued almost the whole night long.
With the greater eagerness we started — qnursday, early in the morning, in order to reach the December 16th. capital of this little hilly country, which forms a very sharp wedge or triangle of ‘considerable length, pro- jecting from the heart of Negroland towards the border of the desert, and exhibiting fixed settlements and a tolerably well-arranged government, in contrast to the turbulent districts of nomadic encampments. Our direction meanwhile remained the same as on the preceding day, being mostly a north-easterly one. The situation of this province, as laid down from my route upon the map, seems very remarkable; but we must not forget that in ancient times, during the flourishing period of the empire of Boérnu, the whole country between this advanced spur and Kaénem formed populous provinces subjected to the same government, and that it is only since the middle of the last century that, the Berbers or Tawarek having politically separated entirely from the Kaniri, the
VOL. IV. E
50 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
whole eastern part of these northern provinces has been laid waste and depopulated, while the energetic rulers of the province of Muniyé have not only suc- ceeded in defending their little territory, but have even extended it in a certain degree, encroaching little by little upon the neighbouring province of Diggera, a tribe of the Tawarek, whom I have men- tioned on a former occasion.”
The country in general preserved the same cha- racter as on the previous day, —the narrow vales and glens inclosed by the granitic eminences being well cultivated, and studded with small hamlets, in some of which the huts approached the architecture usual in Kdénem. Several troops of natives met us on the road, with pack-oxen, over the backs of which large baskets were thrown by means of a sort of network ; they were returning from the capital, having delivered their quota of the ashur or “ kungona maibe.” The system of tax-paying in these western provinces is very different from that usual in Bérnu Proper, as I shall soon have another opportunity of relating.
After a march of about six miles, an isolated date palm announced a different region, and a little fur- ther on we entered the valley of Tunguré, running from west to east, and adorned with a fine plantation of cotton, besides a grove of about two hundred date palms. Having traversed this valley where the road leads to Billa Mallem Gargebe, we entered a thicket of mimosas, while the eminences assumed a rounder
* Vol. II. p. 72.
Cuar. LIV. PALM GROVE.—VIEW OF GU’/RE. Al
shape. The country then became gradually more open, scarcely a single tree being met with, and we obtained a distant view of Gure, situated at the southern foot and on the lower slope of a rocky eminence, when we began to descend considerably along the shelving ground of the expansive plain laid out in stubble-fields, with here and there a few trees, -and intersected by several large and deep ravines. Having first inspected the site of the town, I chose my camping-ground in a small recess of the sandy
CCI 2) Zane DDE IN
Wis Oy
downs which border the south side of a concavity or dell surrounding the town on this side, and laid out in small kitchen-gardens and cotton plantations as
shown in the accompanying woodcut; for, notwith- E 2
59 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV::
standing the entreaties of the governor, I did not like to take up my quarters inside the place.
In the evening, I received a visit from Yusuf Mukni, the late Mr. Richardson’s interpreter, who at present had turned merchant, and, having sold several articles to Muniyéma the governor of the country, had been waiting here three months for pay- ment. He was very amiable on this occasion, and apparently was not indisposed to accompany me to Sékoto, if I had chosen to make him an offer; but I knew his character too well, and feared rather than liked him. He gave mea faithful account of the wealth and power of Muniyéma, who, he said, was able to bring into the field 1500 horsemen, and from 8000 to 10,000 archers, while his revenues amounted to 80,000,000 of shells, equivalent, according to the standard of this place, to 10,000 Spanish dollars, besides a large tribute in corn, equal to the tenth part, or ashur, which, in all the provinces of Bérnu north-west of the komadugu, in consequence of the governors of these territories having preserved their independence against the Falbe or Felldta, belongs to them, and not to the sovereign lord, who resides in Kukawa. Each full-grown male inhabitant of the province has to pay annually 1000 shells for himself, and, if he possess cattle, for every pack-ox 1000 shells more, and for every slave 2000.
I had heard a great deal about the debts of this governor ; but I learned, on further inquiry, that they only pressed heavily upon him this year, when the
cd ae, ee Ae oy c Be =
Cuap. LIV. ESTATE OF MU’/NIYO’MA. De
revenues of his province were greatly reduced by the inroad of the Tawdrek of which I have spoken before. As a specimen of his style of life, I may mention that he had recently bought a horse of Tarkiye breed for 700,000 shells, —a very high price in this country, equal to about 50/. sterling.
Having got ready my presents for the — priaay, governor, I went to pay him a visit; and Pecember 17th. while waiting in the inner courtyard, I had sufficient leisure to admire the solid and well-ornamented style of building which his palace exhibited, and which almost cast into the shade the frail architectural
monuments of the capital. I was then conducted
into a stately but rather sombre audience-hall, where the governor was sitting on a divan of clay, clad in a blue berntus, and surrounded by a great number of people whom curiosity had brought thither. Having exchanged with him the usual compliments, I told him that, as Mr. Richardson had paid him a visit on his first arrival in the country, and on his way from the north to Kukawa, it had also been my desire, before leaving Bérnu for the western tribes, to pay my respects to him as the most noble, powerful, and intelligent governor of the country, — it being our earnest wish to be on friendly terms with all the princes of the earth, more especially with those so remarkably distinguished as was his family. He re- ceived my address with great kindness, and appeared much flattered by it.
The number of people present on this occasion was E 3
54 ‘TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIV.
so great, that I did not enter into closer conversation with the governor, the darkness of the place not allowing me to distinguish his features. JI had, however, a better opportunity of observing his almost European cast of countenance when I paid him an- other visit, in order to satisfy his curiosity by firing my six-barrelled revolver before his eyes. On this occasion he did me the honour of putting on the white helali berntis which had constituted the chief attrac- tion of my present, and which he esteemed very highly, as most noble people do in this country, while the common chief values more highly a dress of showy colours. The white half-silk bernus looked very well, especially as he wore underneath it a red cloth kaftan.
The real name of the governor is Kdéso, Muniyoma being, as I have stated on a former occasion™, nothing but a general title, meaning the governor of Muniyé, which, in the old division of the vast empire of Bornu, formed part of the Yeri. In the present reduced state of the kingdom of Bérnu, he was the most powerful and respectable of the governors, and, by his personal dignity had more the appearance of a prince than almost any other chief whom I saw in Negroland. Besides making himself respected by his intelligence and just conduct, he has succeeded in spreading a sort of mystery round his daily life, which enhanced his authority. The people assured me that nobody ever saw him eating. But, as far as I had an opportunity of observing, even his family
* See Vol. II. p. 192.
Cuar. LIV.’ CHARACTER OF MU‘NIYO’MA. 55
harboured that jealousy and. want of confidence which undermines the wellbeing of so many princely house- holds based on polygamy.
Késo at that time was a man of about sixty years of age, and, unfortunately, died shortly afterwards, in the year 1854. He had displayed a great deal of energy on several occasions. It was he who had transferred the seat of government of this province from Bune to Gtre, having conquered (or probably only reconquered) this territory from the Diggera, the Tawarek tribe formerly scattered over a great part of Hausa. But notwithstanding his own ener- getic character, he had manifested his faithfulness to his sovereign lord in Kukawa at the time of the in- road of the Waday, when Serki Ibram, the governor of Zinder, not only declared himself independent, but even demanded homage from the neighbouring vassals of the Bérnu empire, and, when such was denied him, marched against Muniyéma, but was beaten near the town of Wushek. Such faithful adherence to the new dynasty of the Kanemiyin in Kukawa is the more remarkable in this man, as the ruling family of Muni- yoma seems to have been of ancient standing, and it was an ancestor of Kédso, of the name of Sérriy6, who once conquered the strong town of Daura, the most ancient of the Hausa states.
But notwithstanding the more noble disposition which certainly distinguished this man from most of his colleagues, here also the misery connected with the
horrors of slave-hunting and the slave-trade was very E 4
TT oot ce BA oe) ts hen Sis Seana once
EES Oe pe ae Pet Cat fi
56 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
palpable. _ For, in order to be enabled to pay his debts, he was just then about to undertake a foray against one of the towns of the Diggera, the inhabitants of which had behaved in a friendly manner towards the Tawarek during their recent inroad; and he begged me, very urgently, to stay until his return from the foray. But as I did not want anything from him, and as the road before me was a long one, I preferred pursuing my journey, taking care, however, to obtain information from him, and from the principal men in his company, respecting those localities of the pro- vince which most deserved my attention.
Késo departed, with his troop in several small de- tachments, about noon on the 18th, the signal for starting not being made with a drum, as is usual in Bornu, but with an iron instrument which dates from the old pagan times, and not unlike that of the Musgu. It was also very characteristic, that during his absence the lieutenant-governorship was exercised by the magira, or the mother of the go- vernor, who was said to have ruled on former oc- casions In a very energetic manner, punishing all the inhabitants, capable of bearing arms, who had remained behind. LBefore setting out, however, on his foray, the governor sent me a camel as a pre- sent, which, although it was not a first-rate one, and was knocked up before I reached Katsena, neverthe- less proved of some use for a few days. I presume that it had been his intention to have given me a better animal, and that his design had only been frus-
Cuar. LIV. SLAVE-HUNTING.—SITE OF GU’/RE. 57
trated by some selfish people. He had expressed a wish to purchase from me a pair of Arab pistols; but although I possessed three beautifully-ornamented pairs, | wanted them myself as presents for other chiefs on my further march, and therefore could not gratify his wish. During my stay here he treated me very hospitably, sending me, besides numerous dishes of prepared food, two fat sheep as a present. Gure, the present residence of Muniyoma, lies on the southern slope of a rocky eminence, and is sepa- rated, by irregular ground, into several detached portions containing, altogether, a population of about 8000 inhabitants. In former years it was more spacious; and its circumference had only been lessened a short time before my arrival, in order to insure greater security. But it is only surrounded with a single, and in some places a double, fence or stockade, the south-western corner, which is most exposed to an attack, being protected in a curious way, by a labyrinth of fences, including a number of cotton- grounds and kitchen-gardens.* But although in this
* There give a list of the towns and more important villages belonging to the province of Muniyé : — Gare, the present capital, conquered from the Diggera by Koso the present governor ; Bune, the old capital; New Bane ; Sulléri, the chief market-place ; Wi- shek; Gabana; Sangaya; Méza; Gertégené ; M4zamni; Mastata; Keléno ; Kizammana; Dellakéri; Bébit, W. of Old Bane; Birni- n-Gammachak or Chéchega, the oldest possession of the Mid- niyémas; Gabu, inhabited besides by Manga, also by Kantri and Fialbe ; Bratawa ; Ko6lori ; two places called Gediyé ; Kabara; Fast; Chagamo; Méreri; Ngamari; Berdéri ; Wédo; Dudémer‘; Yebal; Derikwa ; Kalaliwa; Chando; Wurme; Masoda; Fus4m
58: TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIV.
manner the town is only very insufficiently protected against a serious attack, the inhabitants have the ad- vantage of the rocky cone rising over their heads, where they might certainly retire in such a case.
I left Gure, continuing my march towards Zinder not along the most direct road, but with the intention of visiting those localities which were likely to present the most interesting fea- tures. I therefore kept first in a westerly direction, passing through a mountainous district, and further on through more open country, with the purpose of visiting Wushek, a place which had been mentioned to me as peculiarly interesting. The situation of the place has something (as the plate a few pages further on, as well as the woodcut, will show) very peculiar about it—a mixture of fertility and aridity, of culti- vation and desolation, of industry and neglect —being situated at some distance from the foot of a mountain- range, and separated from it by a barren tract, while on
Sunday, December 19th.
ghan4; Bermarili: three places called Kadalébbuwa; two places Maja; Changa, with a market every Wednesday ; Hogémari ; Ginuwa; Umorari; Maiganari; Falam; three places Koldlluwa; Donari; Gdso; Onjol; Wonji; Aladari; Grémari; U’duwa; Koigdém; Bituwa; Kureri; Woriram; Shéddiga; Ngamda; Boggosiwa; Sha; Brada; Garekkhi; Madara; Gergériwa; Sassudéri; Gdsabi; Maya; Lassori; Shut; Adtra; Ganakta; Maye; Kelle; Aidambé; Feram; Hugadébbuwa; two places Felladari; Yémmeri; Digeri; Bigu; Ngdliwa; Térmuwa; Gur6- gudi; Urowa; Garruwa; Farram; Hosomawaro; Shishuwa ; Kangarruwa; Bodbot; Mallem Madori; Datrduwa; Deriguwa; Gujimbo; Warimi; Gajémmi; Inyém; Tsérruwa; Mallemri; Karbo; Ariwaul; Dini, and others.
ae re we
Cuar. LIV. PECULIAR SITE OF WU’SHEK. 59
the site itself the moisture percolates in several small dells and hollows; and thus, besides a good crop of wheat, several small groves of date trees are produced. The largest of these groves, skirting the east side of the town, contains about 800 trees, while a little further east another dell winds along, containing about 200 palms, and, joining the former, to the north of the village, widens to a more open ground richly overgrown with tamarind trees, which are en- twined with creepers and clad with herbage. This grove, which encompasses the whole of the north side of the place, exhibits a very pleasant aspect. Several ponds are formed here; and abundance of water is found in holes from a foot to two feet in depth. (joing round this depression, I entered the town from the north-east quarter, and here found a large open space laid out in fields of wheat, kitchen-gardens, with onions, and cotton-grounds, all in different stages of cultivation: most of the beds where wheat was grown were just being laid out, the clods of dry earth being broken and the ground irrigated, while in other places the green stalks of the crop were already shooting forth. The onions were very closely packed together. Hverywhere the fertilizing element was close at hand, and palm trees were shooting up in several detached clusters; but large mounds of rubbish prevented my taking a comprehensive view over the whole, and the more so as the village is separated into four detached portions lying at a con- siderable distance from each other, and forming
60 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIV.
altogether a circumference of about three miles, with a population of from 8000 to 9000 inhabitants. But the whole is merely surrounded by a light fence. The principal cluster, or hamlet, surrounds a small eminence, on the top of which stands the house of the head man or mayor, built of clay, and having quite a commanding position, while at the north- eastern foot of the hill a very picturesque date grove spreads out ina hollow. The ground being uneven,
— —,
D3
Es]
a \3
ay 2" H
p NNASy Bf ‘3 5% Wy 2 (3 i wy anys
— ‘Ah,
ail
WUSHEK. 1. Principal hamlet surrounding the dwelling of the billama, which is situated
on an eminence. 2. Several smaller clusters of huts.
3, 4. Shallow vales with palm trees. 5. Small depressions or cavities in the sandy soil, also with palm-trees. 6. Another group of palm trees on the border of a small brook formed by a source
of living water.
the dwellings, like those in Gure, are mostly situated in hollows; and the courtyards present a new and
Cuar. LIV. WU’SHEK. 61
characteristic feature—for although the cottages them- selves are built of reed and stalks of Negro corn, the corn-stacks, far from presenting that light and perishable appearance which they exhibit all over Hausa, approach closely that solid style of building which we have observed in the Musgu country, being built of clay, and rising to the height of ten feet.
Wushek is the principal place for the cultivation of wheat in the whole western part of Bornu; and if there had been a market that day, it would have been most profitable for me to have provided myself here with this article, wheat being very essential for me, as | had only free servants at my disposal, who would by no means undertake the pounding and pre- paring of the native corn, while a preparation of wheat, such as mohamsa, can be always kept ready; but the market of Wtishek is only held every Wednesday. In the whole of this country, one hundred shells, or kungona, which are estimated equal to one gabaga, form the standard currency in the market; and it is remarkable that this sum is not designated by the Kanuri word “miye ” or “yéro,’* nor with the common Hausa word “dari,” but by the name ‘‘zango,” which is used only in the western parts of Hausa and in Sokoto.
I had pitched my tent near the south-eastern
* The Kaniri, in order to express “one hundred,” have relin- quished the expression of their native idiom, and generally make use of the Arab term “ miye.”
62 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
hamlet, which is the smallest of the four, close to the spot where I had entered the place, not being aware of its extent ; and from here I made, in the afternoon, a sketch of the mountain-range towards the south, and the dry shelving level bordered by the strip of green verdure with the palm trees in the foreground, which is represented in the plate opposite. In the evening I was hospitably regaled by each of the two billama who govern the town, and I had the satisfac- tion of making a “tailor to His Majesty Muniyéma,” who was residing here, very happy by the present of a few large darning-needles for sewing the libbedi or wadded dress for the soldiers.
Aténday, On leaving Wushek, we directed our December 20th. course by the spur of the mountain-chain to the south south-west, crossing several hollows, one of which presented a very luxuriant cotton-ground carefully fenced in by the euphorbiacea here called magard, which I have described on a former occa- sion. The country in general consisted of a broken sandy level clothed with tall reeds. Leaving then a small village of the name of Gédiyé in a recess of the mountains, we entered an undulating plain, the prairie of Négo, open towards the west, but bounded on the east by an amphitheatre of low hills, and densely clothed with herbage and broom, to which succeeded underwood of small mimosas, and further on, when we approached the hills on the other side of the plain, large clusters of “ abisga,” or Cap- paris sodata.’ Only here and there traces of cultiva-
Cuar. LIV. SACRED SITE OF GA’BATA’. | 63
tion were to be seen. The sun was very powerful ; and as we marched during the hottest hours of the day, I felt very unwell, and was obliged to sit down for a while.
After having traversed the plain, we again had the mountain-chain on our left; and in a recess or amphi- theatre which is formed by the eminences, we obtained a sight of Gabata, the old residence of the Muniyéma, but at present exhibiting nothing but a heap of un- sightly ruins, encompassed towards the road side by a wall built of different kinds of stone, but at present entirely in decay, while in the very angle of the re- cess at the foot of the mountains a stone dwelling is seen, where it was the custom, in olden times, for every ruler of the country, upon his accession to the throne, to remain in retirement for seven days. It had been my intention to visit this spot; but the present governor had urgently requested me to abstain from such a profane undertaking, the place being (as he said) haunted by spirits: and my sudden indisposition prevented me from accomplishing my design. The natives say that there are caves leading from the stone dwelling into the rock.
Our left being bordered by the mountain-slope, which is beautifully varied, and having on our right a fine grove of magnificent trees and cultivated fields, we reached, at three o’clock in the afternoon, the well situated in a recess of the mountains, but had great difficulty in choosing a spot tolerably free from ants. Here I felt so weak that I did not care either about
64 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
the ruins of Gabata or anything else except the most profound repose.
Tuesday, Lhe night was very cold, and disagree- December 21st. able, a heavy north-easterly gale not only bringing cold, but likewise covering us with clouds of the feathery prickle Pennisetum distichum ; and we started in a condition anything but cheerful. The mountain-chain on our left now receded, and the country exhibited a rich abundance of timber and herbage, the forest being agreeably broken by a large extent of stubble-fields where millet and beans were grown ; and distinguished among the cultivated grounds by the appearance of a certain degree of in- dustry, were the fields of Chégchega or Gammachak, the oldest estate of the family of Muniyéma, which we had on our left.* In'the intervening tracts of forest the um-el-barka or kégo (Mimosa Nilotica) was very common, but it was at present leafless. Granite pro- trudes now and then; and further on the whole country became clothed with retem or broom.
Close to the village of Baratawa, we crossed a nar- row but beautiful and regular vale adorned with the finest tamarind trees I ever saw, which were not only developing their domelike umbrageous crowns in full splendour, but which were the more beautiful as the fruit was just beginning to ripen. Close to the well a group of slender dum palms were starting
* IT am alittle uncertain, at present, whether this is the old re- sidence, or the GAmmazak near Wishek.
Cuar. LIV. DISTRICT OF KELE’NO. 65
forth, with their light fanlike foliage, in singular contrast to the domelike crowns of dark-green foliage which adorned the tamarind trees. This beautiful tree further on also remained the greatest ornament to the landscape; but besides this the komor or batire also and other species were observed, and the fan palm was to be seen here and there. Cattle and camels enlivened the country, which presented the appearance of one vast field, and was dotted with numerous corn stacks.
I had entertained the hope of being able this day to reach the natron lake of Keléno; but I convinced myself that the distance was too great, and, although I reached the first hamlet, which bears the name of Keléno, I was obliged to encamp without being able to reach the lake. There had been in former times a large place of the same name hereabout; but the in- habitants had dispersed, and settled in small detached hamlets. Close to our encampment there was a pond of small size, but of considerable depth, which seemed never todry up. It was densely overgrown with tall papyrus and melés. The core of the root of this rush was used by my young Shtiwa companion to allay his hunger, but did not seem to me to be very palatable: and fortunately it was not necessary to have © recourse to such food, as we were treated hospitably by the inhabitants of the hamlet. The batire, or, as they are here called, kémor, have generally a very stunted and extremely poor appearance in this dis- trict, and nothing at all like that magnificent specimen
VOL. IV. F
66 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIV.
which I had seen on my first approach to Sudan, in the valley of Boghel.
Wednesday, Lhe night was very cold, in fact one of December 22nd. the coldest which I experienced on my whole journey, the thermometer being only 8° above freezing-point ; but nevertheless, there being no wind, the cold was less sensibly felt, and my servants were of opinion that it had been much colder the previous day, when the thermometer indicated 22° more.
As the natron lake did not lie in my direct route, I sent the greater part of my people, together with the camels, straight on to Badamuni, while I took only my two body-guards, the Gatréni and the Shuwa, with me. ‘The country presented the same appearance as on the previous day; but there was less cultivation, and the dum palm gradually became predominant. In one place there were two isolated deléb palms. Several specimens of the Kajilia were also observed. The level was broken by numerous hollows, the bottom being mostly covered with rank grass, and now and then even containing water. In front of us, three de- tached eminences stretched out into the plain from north to south, the natron lake being situated at the western foot of the central eminence, not far from a village called Magajiri. When we had passed this village, which was full of natron, stored up partly in large piles, partly sewn into “ takrufa,” or matting coverings, we obtained a view of the natron lake, lying before us in the hollow at the foot of the rocky
Cuap. LIV. THE NATRON LAKE OR A/BGE. 67
eminence, with its snow-white surface girt all round by a green border of luxuriant vegetation. The sky was far from clear, as is very often the case at this season; and a high wind raised clouds of dust upon the surface of the lake.
The border of vegetation was formed by well-kept cotton-grounds, which were just in flower, and by kitchen-gardens, where deraba or Corchorus olttorius was grown, the cultivated ground being broken by dum bush and rank grass. Crossing this verdant and fertile strip, we reached the real natron lake, when we hesitated some time whether or not we should venture upon its surface; for the crust of natron was scarcely an inch thick, the whole of the ground underneath consisting of black boggy soil, from which the sub- stance separates continually afresh. However, I learned that, while the efflorescence at present consisted of only small bits or crumbled masses, during the time of the biggela, that is to say, at the end of the rainy season, larger pieces are obtained here, though not to be compared with those found in Lake Tsdd, — the kind of natron which is procured here being called “poktor,” while the other quality is called “ kilbu tsarafu.” A large provision of natron, consisting of from twenty to twenty-five piles about ten yards in diameter, and four in height, protected by a layer of reeds, was stored up at the northern end of the lake. The whole circumference of the basin, which is called “abge” by the inhabitants, was one mile
and a halt. ; 5 at
68 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIV.
I here changed my course in order to join my people, who had gone on straight to Badamiuni. The country at first was agreeably diversified and undulating, the irregular vales being adorned with dim palms and fig trees; and cultivation was seen to a great extent, belonging to villages of the territory of Gushi*, which we left on one side. Presently the country became more open, and suddenly I saw before me a small blue lake, bounded towards the east by an eminence of considerable altitude, and towards the north by a rising ground, on the slope of which a place of considerable extent was stretch- Ing out.
Coming from the monotonous country of Bérnu, the interest of this locality was greatly enhanced : and the nearer I approached, the more peculiar did its features appear to me; for I now discovered that the lake, or rather the two lakes, were girt all round
by the freshest border of such a variety of vegeta- tion as is rarely scen in this region of Negroland.
We had some difficulty in joining our camels and people, who had pursued the direct road from Keléno; for, having appointed as the spot where we were to meet, the north-eastern corner of the town of Gada- bini, or Badamuni, towards the lake, we found that it would be extremely difficult for them to get there, and
* This territory comprises the following villages : — Farilkaia, Gérebi, Matar4wa, Tsamaiku, Kachébaré, Yaka, and Bada. The greater part of the inhabitants already belong to the Hausa race, or, as the Kantri say, ‘ A’fund.”
Cuar. LIV. LAKES OF BADAMU’NI. 69
we therefore had to ride backwards and forwards be- fore we fixed upon a place for our encampment, at the western end of this small luxuriant oasis. On this occasion I obtained only a faint idea of the richness and peculiarity of this locality; but on the following morning [ made a more complete survey of the whole place, as well as my isolated situation and the means at my disposal would allow, the result of which is represented in the accompanying woodcut. The whole of the place forms a kind of shallow vale, stretching out in a west-easterly direction, and surrounded on the west, north, and south sides by hills rising from 100 to 200 feet, but bordered towards the east by Mount Shedika, which rises to about 500 or 600 feet above the general level of the country. In this vale water is found gushing out from the ground in rich, copious springs, and feeds two lakes, after irrigating a considerable extent of cultivated ground where, besides sorghum and millet, cotton, pepper, indigo, and onions are grown. These lakes are united by a narrow channel thickly over- grown with the tallest reeds, but, notwithstanding their junction, are of quite a different nature, the western- most containing fresh water, while that of the eastern lake is quite brackish, and full of natron. It seems to be a pecuhar feature in this region, that all the chains of hills and mountains stretch from north-east to south-west, this being also the direction of the lakes. The chief part of the village itself lies on the north-
west side of the plantation, on the sloping ground of F 3 .
70 TRAVELS IN AFRICA, Car. LIV.
E. 1h N. g
a
Zi; yp, Z Zz Zy, ZZ Y 4 Wy Ae Q 4 “GS Es 2 Z F &4. A € s0-¢ >» % %2 3 = z ‘° RNS = fF eS 2 Kg K \ \\ X —>- SJ Z B eS = wy, COTTON ~ =| = @ EPR A \ - e PEPPER AQ Zz Se yy WG = SSS “Uy, TENT == == Hf Zz gE ‘~ 2 cy = Z = wig Z = ~ Z ; é ~
BADAMUNI.
1. Richest source at the south-western border of the plantation.
' 2. Open square in the village, adorned with a luxuriant “karage” tree. 3. Another rich source in the northern vale. 4. Market-place.
Cuar. LIV. PLAN OF THE OASIS. il
the downs, while a smaller hamlet borders the gardens on the south-west side. The plantations are very carefully fenced, principally with the bush called magara, which I have mentioned on former occa- sions; and besides kika or monkey-bread trees, and kdrna, or nebek, a few date palms contributed greatly to enliven the scenery. The monkey-bread trees, however, were all of small size, and of re- markably slender growth, such as I had not before observed, while the public place, or “ fage,” of the smaller village was adorned by a karage tree of so rich a growth that it even surpassed, if not in height, at least in the exuberance of its foliage, the finest trees of this species which I had seen in the Museu country.
I began my survey of this interesting locality on the south side, following first the narrow path which separates the southern village from the plantation, and visiting again the principal source, the rich volume of which, gushing along between the hedges, had already excited my surprise and delight the previous day.
This lower village cannot be very aa both on account of its exuberant vegetation, and the quantity of water in which the neighbourhood abounds; but its situation is extremely pleasant to the eye. Keep- ing then close along the southern border of the plan- tation, I reached the eastern edge of the western lake, which is thickly overgrown with papyrus and melés,
while, in the narrow space left between the plantation ), r4
72 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
and the Jake, the baure and the gawasu are the common trees.
The presence of the latter at this spot seems very remarkable, as this tree, in general, is looked for in vain in this whole region ; and I scarcely remember to have seen it again before reaching the village, a few miles to the N.E. of Wurnd, which has thence re- ceived its name.
The papyrus covers the whole shore at the point of junction of the two lakes, while in the water itself, where it first becomes brackish, another kind of weed was seen, called “ kumba,” the core of which is like- wise eaten by the greater part of the poorer inhabi- tants, and is more esteemed than the melés. It was highly interesting to me to observe that my young Shuwa companion, who was brought up on the shores of the T'sad, immediately recognised, from the species of reeds, the nature of the water on the border of which they grew, as this mixed character of brackish and sweet water is, exactly in the same manner, pe- culiar to the outlying smaller basins of that great Central African lagoon.*
I found the junction of the two lakes from sixty-five to seventy yards broad, and at present fordable, the water being four feet and a halfin depth. The differ- ence in the appearance of the natron lake, from that ex- hibited by the fresh-water basin, was remarkable in the extreme,—the water of the one being of a dark-blue
* See what I have said on this subject, Vol. II. p. 325.
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Cuar. LIV. FRESH-WATER LAKE AND NATRON LAKE. 73
colour, and presenting quite a smooth surface, while that of the other resembled the dark-green colour of the sea, and, agitated by the strong gale, broke splashing and foaming on the shore in mighty billows, so that my two companions, the Shtiwa lad and the Hausa boy, whom I had taken with me on this excursion, were quite in ecstasy, having never before witnessed such a spectacle. It would have been a fine spot for a water-party. The surrounding landscape, with Mount Shedika in the east, was ex- tremely inviting, although the weather was not very clear and had been exceedingly foggy in the morning. But there was neither boat nor canoe, although the lake is of considerable depth and is said always to preserve about the same level; for, according to the superstition of the inhabitants, its waters are inha- bited by demons, and no one would dare to expose himself to their pranks, either by swimming or ina boat.
The brackish quality of the water arises entirely from the nature of the soil. In the centre it seems to be decidedly of such a quality; but I found that near the border, which is greatly indented, the nature of the water in the different creeks was very varying. In one it was fresh, while in a neigh- bouring one it was not at all drinkable ; but never- theless even here there were sometimes wells of the sweetest water quite close to the border. Swarms of water fowl of the species called “ c4rmaka” by the Hausa people, and “ gubdri” by the Kanuri, together
74 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.: Cuar. LIV.
with the black rejijia and the small sanderling, en- livened the water’s edge, where it presented a sandy beach.
A little further on, the melés and kumba were suc- ceeded by the tall bulrush called “ bus,” while beyond the north-easterly border of the lake an isolated date palm adorned the scenery, which in other respects entirely resembled the shores of the sea, a rich pro- fusion of sea weed being carried to the bank by the billows. Then succeeded a cotton plantation, which evidently was indebted for its existence to a small brook formed by another source of fresh water which joins the lake from this side. From the end of this plantation, where the natron lake attains its greatest breadth of about a mile and a half, I kept along the bank in a south-westerly direction, till I again reached the narrow junction between the two lakes. Here the shore became very difficult to traverse, on account of an outlying branch of the plantation closely bordering the lake, and I had again to ascend the downs from whence I had enjoyed the view of this beautiful panorama on the previous day. I thus re-entered the principal village from the north-east side; and while keeping along the upper road, which intersects the market-place, I saw with delight that the town is bounded on the north side also by a narrow but very rich vale, meandering along and clad with a profusion of vegetation; and I here ob- served another spring, which broke forth with almost as powerful a stream as that near the southern
Gap. LIV. SURVEY OF THE LAKE. 75
quarter, and was enlivened by a number of women busily employed in fetching their supply of water.
The market-place is formed of about thirty sheds or stalls; and there is a good deal of weaving to be observed in the place, its whole appearance exhibit- ing signs of industry. I could not, however, obtain a sheep, or even as much as a fowl, so that our even- ing’s repast was rather poor; and a very cold easterly wind blowing direct into the door of my tent, which I had opened towards Mount Shedika in order to enjoy the pleasant prospect of the lakes and the plantation, rendered it still more cheerless. The whole of the in- habitants belong to the Hausa race; and the governor himself is of that nation.* He is in a certain degree dependent on the governor of Zinder, and not directly on the sheikh; and he was treated in the most de- grading manner by my trooper, although the latter was a mere attendant of A’dama the governor of Donari.
I made an interesting day’s march to Mirriya, another locality of the province Demagherim, greatly favoured by nature. The first part of our road was rather hilly, or even mountainous, a promontory of considerable elevation jutting out into the more open country from 8.E., and forming in the whole district a well-marked boundary. The village Handara, which lies at the foot of a higher
Friday, December 24th,
* The territory under his command comprises, besides Bada- muni, four villages, all situated towards the north, their names being as follows: — Jishwa, Koikam, Zermé, and Jigaw.
76 TRAVELS. IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
mountain bearing the same name, and which we reached after a march of about two miles, was most charmingly situated, spreading out in several strag- gling groups on the slopes of the hills, and exhi- biting a far greater appearance of prosperity than Badamuni. It was highly interesting to take a peep on horseback at the busy scenes which the court- yards exhibited. Poultry was here in great abun- dance.
While descending from the village, we crossed a beautiful ravine enlivened by a spring, and adorned by a few detached groups of date and deléb palms spreading their feathery foliage by the side of the dim palms. Leaving then a cotton plantation, stretching out where the ravine widened, we as- cended the higher ground, our route lying now through cultivated ground, at other times through forest ; and after a march of about fourteen miles, we crossed a kind of shallow vale, richly adorned with vegetation, and bordered towards the north by sandy downs, over which lies the direct route to Zinder. A little lower down this valley we passed a small village called Potord, distinguished by the extent of its cotton plantations. Along the lower grounds a few date trees form a beautiful fringe to this little oasis; here, also, springs seemed to be plentiful, and large ponds of water were formed.
Four miles beyond this place we reached the wall of the town of Mirriya, which was beautifully adorned with large tamarind trees. This town had been once
e
Cuar. LIV. MI/RRIYA, A FAVOURED LOCALITY. C7
a large place, and the capital of the whole western province of Bérnu. But when the town of Zinder was founded, about twenty-five years previously, by Sliman the father of the present governor Ibram, Mirriya began to decline, and the chief of this terri- tory fell into a certain degree of dependence upon the governor of Zinder. At the north side of the town there is an extensive district cultivated with cotton and wheat, and irrigated likewise by springs which ooze forth from the sandy downs; besides a few date trees, a group of slender feathery-leaved génda overshadowed the plantation, and gave it an uncommonly attractive character. Having proceeded in advance of my camels, which had followed for some time another path, I had to wait till long after sunset before they came up, and, while resting in the open air, received a visit from the governor of the town, who, in true Hausa fashion, arrived well dressed and mounted, with a numerous train of men on horse- back and on foot, singing men, and musicians.
This was to be the day of my arrival in gaturday, Zinder — an important station for me, as I December 26th. had here to wait for new supplies, without which I could scarcely hope to penetrate any great distance westward.
The country was more open than it had been the preceding day; and the larger or smaller eminences were entirely isolated, with the exception of those near Zinder, which formed more regular chains. The ground consisted mostly of coarse sand and
&
73 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
gravel, the rocks being entirely of sandstone, and intersected by numerous small watercourses, at pre- sent dry. This being the nature of the ground, the district was not very populous ; but we passed some villages which seemed to be tolerably well off, as they had cattle and poultry.
Pursuing our north-westerly direction, we reached the town of Zinder, after a march of about nine miles and a half, and, winding round the south side of the town, which is surrounded by a low rampart of earth and a small ditch, entered it from the west. Passing then by the house of the sherif el Iasi, the agent of the vizier of Bérnu, we reached the quarters which had been assigned to us, and which consisted of two clay rooms. Here I was enabled to deposit all my property in security, no place in the whole of Sudan being so ill famed, on account of the numerous confla- srations to which it is subjected, as Zinder.
The situation of Zinder is peculiar and interesting. A large mass of rock starts forth from the area of the town on the west side, while others are scattered in ridges round about the town, so that a rich supply of water collects at a short depth below the surface, fertilizing a good number of tobacco-fields, and giving to the vegetation around a richer character. This is enhanced especially by several groups of date palms, while a number of hamlets, or zangd, belonging to the Tawarek chiefs who command the salt-trade, and especially one which belongs to Lust, and another to A’nnur, add greatly to the interest of the place. The
Cuar. LIV. CHARACTER OF ZI’/NDER. 19
larger plantation which the sherif el Fasi, the agent of the vizier of Bérnu, had recently begun to the south of the town, although very promising and full of vegetables difficult to procure in this country, was too young to contribute anything to the general cha- racter of the place. It was entirely wanting in larger trees, and had only a single palm tree and a lime. I am afraid, after the revolution of December 1853, which caused the death of that noble Arab, who was one of the more distinguished specimens of his nation, it has returned to the desolate state from which he called it forth.
The accompanying ground-plan of the town and its environs will, I hope, convey some idea of its pe- culiar character; but it can give not the faintest notion of the bustle and traffic which concentrate in this place, however limited they may be when com- pared with those of European cities. Besides some indigo-dyeing, there is scarcely any industry in Zinder; yet its commercial importance has of late become so great, that it may with some propriety be called “the gate of Sudan.” But of course its im- portance is only based on the power of the kingdom of Bérnu, which it serves to connect more directly with the north, along the western route by way of Ghat and Ghaddmes, which has the great advantage over*the eastern or Fezzan route, that even smaller caravans can proceed along it with some degree of security, that other route having become extremely unsafe. It was then the most busy time for the
80 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIV.
inhabitants, the salt-caravan of the Kél-owi having arrived some time previously, and all the hamlets
Zn = = i} = Sat = ee Hh "ng Gj ae | ee 4 YY >», we fi ao Me ZG FH yg ZI Yy ty Gp SS YZ if, L, Dae Z ty, “NW ——— nN Gy “iy, / yy ‘ A eae be “PF "ng ; Tis (4 i sy a - nw 7 Bz \ ae) > ‘Z Gry, Hi ay cory ge ASS ¢ cay Tilly
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1. Residence of governor, inclosed by mattingwork.
2. House of sherif el Fasi.
3. Market-place.
4, My own quarters.
5. Quarters built for the accommodation of strangers.
6. “Sania,” or plantation, belonging to the sherif el Fasi.
7. Hamlet, “ zango,” belonging to A’nnur, the chief of the Kél-owi. 8. “ Zang6é” belonging to Lusu, the chief of the Kél-azanéres.
9. “ Zangoé” belonging to some other chiefs among the Tawarek.
situated around the town being full of these desert traders, who during their leisure hours endeavoured to
make themselves as merry as possible with music and dancing. This gave me an opportunity of seeing
Cuar. LIV. IMPORTANCE OF ZI’NDER. 81
again my friend the old chief of Tintdllust, who, however, in consequence of the measures adopted towards him by Mr. Richardson, behaved rather coolly towards me, although I did not fail to make him a small present. )
Being most anxious to complete my scientific labours and researches in regard to Bornu, and to send home as much of my journal as possible, in order not to expose it to any risk, I staid most of the time in my quarters, which [had comfortably fitted up with a good supply of ‘“siggedi” or coarse reed mats, taking only now and then, in the afternoon, a ride on horseback either round the town or into the large well-wooded valley which stretches along from N.W. to 8.E., at some distance from the town, to the N.E. Once I took a longer ride, to a village about eight miles 9.5.E., situated on an eminence with a vale at its foot, fringed with dum palms and rich in saltpetre.
On the 20th of January, 1853, I received from the
hands of the Arab Mohammed el ‘Akertit, whom I
have had occasion to mention previously*, a valuable consignment, consisting of 1000 dollars in specief, which were packed very cleverly in two boxes of sugar, so that scarcely anybody became aware that I had received money, and the messenger seemed
* See Vol. I. p. 185.
+ Unfortunately they were not all Spanish or Austrian dollars; but there were among the number forty pieces of five francs, and more than one hundred Turkish mejidtye.
VOL. IV. G
82 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuav. LIV.
well deserving of a present equal to his stipulated salary; but I received no letters on this occasion. I had also expected to be able to replace here such of my instruments as had been spoiled or broken, by new ones; but I was entirely disappointed in this respect, and hence, in my further journey, my observa- tions regarding elevation and temperature are rather defective.
I then finished my purchases, amounting altogether to the value of 775,000 kurdi, of all sorts of articles which I expected would be useful on my further pro- — ceedings, such as red common bernuses, white turbans, looking-glasses, cloves, razors, chaplets, and a number of other things, for which I had at the time the best opportunity of purchasing, as all Arab and European merchandise, after the arrival of the kaffala, was rather cheap. Thus I prepared for my setting out for the west; for although I would gladly have waited a few days longer, in order to receive the other parcel, consisting of a box with English iron- ware and 400 dollars, which was on the road for me by way of Kukawa, and which, as I have stated before, had been entrusted, in Fezzan, to a Tebu merchant, it was too essential for the success of my enterprise that I should arrive in Katsena before the Géberawa set out on a warlike expedition against that province, for which they were then preparing on a grand scale. It was thus that the parcel above- mentioned, which, in conformity with my arrange-
LIV. | PECUNIARY SUPPLIES.
ts, was sent after me to Zinder by the vizier,
d which arrived only a few days after I had left at place, remained there in the hands of the sherif
] Fasi, and, on his being assassinated in the revolution of 1854, and his house plundered, fell into the hands
84
CHAP. LV.
DEPARTURE FROM ZINDER. — THE BORDER REGION BETWEEN THE BORNU AND THE FULFULDE EMPIRES. — SECOND STAY IN KA- TSENA.
Sunday, 1 Lert the capital of the westernmost pro- vn” «vince of the Bérnu empire in the best spirits, having at length succeeded, during my pro- longed stay there, in getting rid of the disease in my feet, which had annoyed me ever since my return from Bagirmi to Kikawa. I had, moreover, strength- ened my little caravan by two very excellent camels, which I had bought here; and I was now provided with a sufficient supply of money, stores, and presents, the total value of which exceeded 2000 dollars, and which seemed to guarantee success to my under- taking, at least in a pecuniary point of view, and gave me confidence once more to try my fortune with the Fulbe, my first dealings with whom had not been very promising. However, the road before me was anything but safe, as I had again to traverse with my valuable property that border district, interme- diate between the independent Hausadwa and the Fulbe, which is the scene of uninterrupted warfare and violence, and unfortunately there was no caravan at the time; but nevertheless the most intelligent men in the place were of opinion that this route, by
ii )
Cuar. LV. LINE OF ROUTE. 85
way of Gazdwa, was safer than that by Daura, the un- scrupulous governor of the latter province, under cover of his authority, which could not be withstood witha high hand, being apparently more to be feared than the highway robbers in the border wilderness, who by watchfulness and good arms might be kept at a re- spectful distance. But altogether this was a rather unfortunate circumstance for me, as I cherished the ardent desire of visiting the town of Daura, which, as I have explained on a former occasion, seems to have been the oldest settlement of the Hausa tribe, who appear to have been, from their origin, nearly related to the Berber family,—the Diggera, a section of that nation, being formerly entirely predominant in the territory of Daura. At that time, however, I entertained the hope that, on my return from the west, [might be enabled to visit the latter place; but circumstances prevented me from carrying out my design.
The whole country which we traversed on our way westward, besides being richly studded with fixed dwelling-places, was full of parties of A’sbendwa salt- traders, partly moving on, partly encamped and having their merchandise carefully protected by fences of corn-stalks. But although these people greatly contributed to the animated character of the landscape, yet their presence by no means added to the security of the country; and altogether my order of march became now a very different one from what it had been. Throughout my march from
a]
Go
86 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cur. ee
Kukawa to Zinder, with a few exceptions, it had been my custom to proceed far in advance of the camels, with my horsemen, so that J used to arrive at the camping-ground before the greatest heat of the day had set in; but, on account of the greater insecurity of the country, it now became necessary for me to pursue my march slowly, in company with my lug- gage train.
The ground along our track, as we proceeded from Zinder, was undulating, with ledges or small ridges and isolated masses of granite boulders starting forth here and there; but the country gradually improved, especially after we had passed a pond at the distance | of about seven miles from the town, filling out a concavity or hollow, and fringed with wide-spreading trees and a fine plantation of cotton and tobacco, which were shaded by afew dum palms. Thus we reached the village of Tyrmeni, lying at the border of a shallow vale and surrounded with a strong stockade. Here we fell in with a numerous body of Ikazkezan, mustering, besides a great many on foot, twelve or thirteen men well mounted on horseback, and thinking themselves strong enough, in their inde- pendent spirit, to pursue a contraband road along the border district between Daura and Katsena, in order to avoid paying any customs to the potentates of either. But the restless governor of Daura keeps a sharp look-out, and sometimes overtakes these daring smugglers.
Near the village of Daéambeda also, which: we reached after a march of two miles from Tyrment
Cuar. LY. AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. 87
through a more hilly country, several divisions of the salt-caravan were encamped ; and we chose our camp- ing-ground near a troop of native traders, or fataki. While we were pitching the tent, a Tarki or Amdshagh, mounted on horseback, came slowly up to us, apparently astonished at the peculiar character of the tent, which he seemed to recognise as an old acquaintance. But he was still more surprised when he recognised myself; for he was no other than Agha Battre the son of Ibrahim, from Selufiyet, the chief instigator of the foray made against us at the time of our entering A’ir or A’sben, by the border tribes of that country.
In the depression of the plain towards the south from our encampment, where all the moisture of the district collected, cotton was cultivated to a great extent, while adjoining the village, which lay close to a ridge of granite, a small field of tobacco was to be seen. A petty market, which was held here, enabled us to provide ourselves with grain, poultry, and red pepper, as we had forgotten to lay in a store of the latter article, which is indispensable to travellers in hot countries.
The district through which we passed gtonaay, was densely inhabited, but it was rather ?™"y 3lst scantily timbered, the ground being clad only with short underwood; detached hills were seen now and then; but after a march of about seven miles, the character of the country changed, kalgo appearing more frequently, while the soil consisted of deep sand. Towards the south the vegetation was richer, several
a4
88 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LV.
Tawarek hamlets appearing in the distance. Thus we reached a large well, about thirteen fathoms deep and richly provided with water, where a large herd of cattle and a number of Buzawe, or Tawarek half- castes, of both sexes, were assembled; and I was agreeably surprised at the greater proof of ingenuity which I here observed —a young bull being employed in drawing up the water in a large leather bag con- taining a supply sufficient for two horses,—this being the only time during my travels in Negroland that I observed such a method of drawing up the water, which in general, even from the deepest wells, is. procured by the labour of man alone. The young bull was led by a very pretty Amédshagh girl, to whom I made a present of a tin box with a looking- glass in it, as a reward for her trouble, when she did not fail to thank me by a courtesy, and the expres- sion of an amiable “agaishéka,” ‘“‘ my best thanks.” In the whole of this country a custom still prevails, dating from the period of the strength of the Bérnu empire, to the effect that the horses of travellers must be watered, at any well, in precedence to the wants of the natives themselves.
The whole spectacle which this well exhibited was one of life and activity; and the interest of the sce- nery was further increased by a dense grove of fine tamarind trees which spread out on the south side of the path. I learned, on inquiry, that this district belongs to the territory of Tumtumma, the governor of which is a vassal of Zinder. Close to Tumtimma, on the west, les the considerable town of Gorgom.
Cuar. LV. UNUSUAL MODE OF DRAWING WATER. 89
Leaving the principal road on our right, and fol- lowing a.more southerly one, we encamped near the village of Guimda, which consisted of two hamlets inhabited exclusively by Tawarek slaves. But the territory belongs likewise to the province of Tum- timma. A troop of fataki, or native traders, were encamped near us.
The surface of the country through which our road lay was broken by depres- *?™#y 15+ sions of larger or smaller extent, where the dum palm flourished in great numbers —a tree which is very common in the territory of Tasawa, which we entered a short time before we reached the village of Kaso. We had here descended altogether, most pro- bably, a couple of hundred feet, although the descent was not regular, and was broken by an occasional ascent. The road was well frequented by people coming from the west with cotton, which they sell to advantage in Zinder.
We made a long stretch, on account of the scarcity of water, passing the large village of Shabare, which attracted our attention from the distance by. the beat- ing of drums, but could not supply us with a sufficient quantity of water, —its well measuring twenty-five fathoms in depth, and nevertheless being almost dry ; and thus we proceeded till we reached Maijirgi, after a march of almost twenty-five miles. The village is named from a troughlike™ depression, on the slope of which it is situated, and which, towards
Tuesday,
* “ Jirgi” means boat, as well as a large trough for watering the cattle.
SO - TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Crar. LY.
the south, contains a considerable grove of dum palms. We encamped close to the well,. which is fourteen fathoms deep, at some distance from the village, which has a tolerably comfortable appearance, although it had been ransacked two years before by the governor of Katsena; but, in these regions, dwelling-places are as easily restored as they are destroyed. The inhabitants are notorious for their thievish propensities ; and we had to take precautions accordingly. ‘The whole of this country is rich in beans; and we bought plenty of dried bean-tressels, which are made up in small bundles, and called “harawa” by the Arabs, affording most excellent food for the camels.
Wednesday, everal native travellers had attached February 2nd. themselves to my troop. Amongst them was an abominable slave-dealer who was continually beating his poor victims. I was extremely glad to get rid of this man here, he, as well as the other people, being bound for Tasawa, which I was to leave at some distance on my right. While my people were loading the camels, I roved about, making a very pleasant promenade along the vale, which was richly adorned with dim palms. Having set out at length, keep- ing a little too much towards the west, and crossing the great highroad which comes from Tasawa, we passed several villages on our road, while dum palms and tamarind trees enlivened the country where the eround was not cultivated, but especially the many small and irregular hollows which we traversed.
7
Cuap. LV. CONSPICUOUS VALLEY. 91
Having lost one of our camels, which died on the road, we encamped near a village (the name of which, by accident, I did not learn) situated in a large vale rich in dum palms, and encompassed on the east side by a regular ridge of sandhills of considerable height. Rice was cultivated in the beds beside the onions, while wheat, which is generally raised in this way, was not grown atall. As I have frequently observed, there is no rice cultivated in the whole of Bérnu, — this village constituting, I think, the easternmost limit of the cultivation of this most important article of food, which is the chief staff of life in the whole of Keébbi and along the Niger. The wells in this valley were only three feet deep, and richly provided with water ; and the whole vale was altogether remarkable. The dense grove of dim palms through quay, which our road led afforded a most pic- Fey 3 turesque spectacle in the clear light of the morning sky, and reminded me of the extensive groves of palm trees which I had seen in more northern climes, while large piles of the fruit of the fan palm, stored up by the natives, excited the facetious remarks of those among my people who were natives of Fezzin; and they sneered at the poverty and misery of these negroes, who, being deprived by nature of that delicious and far-famed fruit of the nobler Phenix, were reduced to the poor and tasteless produce of this vile tree. We then left the shallow bottom of the vale, with its wells seven fathoms in depth, at the side of a village a short distance to the east. The country then became
92 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LV.
more open; and after a march of four miles, we reached the shallow faddama of Gazawa, and, leaving the town at a short distance on our right, encamped a little to the south, not far from a fine old tamarind irce.
I was enjoying the shade of this splendid tree, when my friend the serki-n-turiwa, whom, on my first en- trance into the Hausa country, I introduced to the reader as a specimen of an African dandy, came up, on a splendid horse, to pay his compliments to me. The petty chief of Gazawa and his people had been much afraid, after they had received the news of my approach, that I might take another road, in order to avoid making them a present, which has the same value as the toll in a European country. He told me that they had already sent off several horsemen in order to see what direction I had pursued, and he ex- pressed his satisfaction that I had come to him of my own free will; but, on the other hand, he did not fail to remind me that on my former passage through the country I had not given them anything on account of the powerful protection of Elaiji, which I enjoyed at that time. This was very true; and in consequence I had here to make presents to four different persons, although I only remained half a day: first, this little officious friend of mine; then the governor of the town himself, together with his liege lord, the chief of Maradi; and finally, Sadiku, the former Pullo governor of Katsena, who at present resided in this town.
a ee
Cuar. LV. GAZA’WA.—THE REBEL SADI’KU. 93
Having satisfied the serki-n-turawa, I wrapped a bernus and a shawl or zubéta in a handkerchief, and went to pay my respects to the governor, whose name, as I have stated on a former occasion, is Raffa, and whom I found to be a pleasant old fellow. He was well satisfied with his present, though he expressed his apprehension that his liege lord the prince of Maradi, who would not fail to hear of my having passed through the country, would demand some- thing for himself; and he advised me, therefore, to send to that chief a few medicines.
I then rode to Sadiku, the son of the famous Mallem ‘Omaro, or Ghomaro, who had been eight years go- vernor of Katsena, after the death of his father, till having excited the fear or wrath of his liege lord, in consequence of calumnies representing him as en- deavouring to make himself independent, he was deposed by “Aliyu the second successor of Bello, and obliged to seek safety among the enemies of his nation. Sadiku was a stately person, of tall figure, a serious expression of countenance, and a high, powerful chest, such as I have rarely seen in Negroland, and still less among the tribe of the Fulbe. However, he is not a pure Pullo, being the offspring of a Bérnu female slave. He had something melancholy about him; and this was very natural, as he could not well be sincerely beloved by those among whom he was obliged to live, and in whose company he carried on a relentless war against his kinsmen. Sadiku’s house, which was in the utmost decay, was a convincing proof, either that he
94 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LV.
was in reality miserably off, or that he felt obliged to “pretend poverty and misery. He understood Arabic tolerably well, although he only spoke very little. He expressed much regret on hearing of the death of Mr. Overweg, whom he had known during his residence ~ in Maradi; but having heard how strictly Europeans adhere to their promise, he expressed his astonishment that he had never received an Arabic New Testament, which Mr. Overweg had promised him. But I was glad to be able to inform him that it was not the fault of my late lamented companion, who, I knew, had forwarded a copy to him, by way of Zinder, immedi- ately after his arrival in Kuikawa. Fortunately I had a copy or two of the New Testament with me, and therefore made him very happy by adding this book to the other little presents which I gave him. When I left the company of this man, I was obliged to take a drink of furé with Serki-n-tur4wa—however, not as a proof of sincere hospitality, but as a means of beg- ging some further things from me; and I was glad at length to get rid of this troublesome young fellow. Friday, We had been so fortunate as to be joined February 4th. here at Gazdwa by two small parties be- longing to the salt-caravan of the Kél-owi, when, having taken in a sufficient supply of water, and reloaded all our firearms, we commenced our march, about half-past two o’clock in the morning, through the unsafe wilderness which intervenes between the independent Hausa states and that of the Fulbe. The forest was illumed by a bright moonlight ; and we
Gear. LY. ARRIVAL BEFORE KA’TSENA. 95
pursued our march without interruption for nearly twelve hours, when we encamped about five miles beyond the melancholy site of Dankama, very nearly on the same spot where I had halted two years before. We were all greatly fatigued; and a soi-disant sherif from Morocco, but originally, as it seemed, belonging to the Tajakant, who had attached himself to my caravan in Zinder in order to reach Timbuktu in my company, felt very sickly. He had suffered already a great deal in Zinder, and ought not to have exposed his small store of strength to such a severe trial. Not being able to have regard to his state of health, as there was no water here, we pursued our jour- ney soon after midnight, and reached the well- known walls of Katsena after a march of about six hours.
It was with a peculiar feeling that I pitched my tent a few hundred yards from the gate (kéfa-n-samri) of this town, by the governor of which I had been so greatly annoyed on my first entering this country. It was not long before several A’sbenawa people be- longing to Annur, followed by the servants of the governor, came to salute me; and after a little while I was joined by my old tormentor the Tawati mer- chant Bel-Ghét. But our meeting this time was very different from what it had been when I first saw him; for as soon as he recognized me, and heard from me that I was come to fulfil my promise of paying a visit to the sultan of Sdékoto, he could not restrain his delight and excitement, and threw himself upon my
96 TRAVELS IN: AFRICA. Cuar. LV.
neck, repeating my name several times. In fact his whole behaviour changed from this moment; and although he at times begged a few things from me, and did not procure me very generous treatment from the governor, yet, on the whole, he behaved friendly and decently. He asked me repeatedly why I had not gone to Kané; but I told him that I had nothing to do with Kand, that in conformity with my promise I had come to Katsena, and that here I should make all my purchases, in order to undertake the journey to Sékoto from this place under the protection of its governor Mohammed Bello. Now, I must confess that I had another motive for not going to Kand besides this; for the vizier of Bérnu had made it a condition that I should not go to Kand, as my journey to the Fulbe would else be displeasing to himself and the sheikh, by interfering with their policy, and I had found it necessary to consent to his wishes, although I foresaw that it would cause me a heavy loss, as I might have bought all the articles of which I was in want at a far cheaper rate in the great central market of Negroland than I was able to do in Katsena.
I staid outside the town until the following morning, while my quarters in the town were preparing. There was an animated intercourse along my place of en- campment, between the old capital and the new place Wagoje, which the governor had founded two years before; and I received the compliments of several active Fulbe, whose expressive countenances bore sufficient evidence of the fact that their habits were
es A NSS aad Manis Soi das tia il aera
Dae AT , iA einen ee Ee 2 aoa Te _, 3 ie a a
CHar. LY. INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. 97
not yet spoiled by the influence of the softer manners of the subjected tribe, although such an amalgama- tion has already begun to take place in many parts of Hausa.
The house which was assigned to me inside the town was spacious, but rather old, and so full of ants that I was obliged to take the greatest care to protect not only my luggage, but my person from these vo- racious insects. They not only destroyed everything that was suspended on pegs from the walls, but while sitting one day for an hour or so on a clay bank in my room I found, when I got up, a large hole in my tobe, -— these clever and industrious miners having made their way through the clay walls to the spot where I was sitting, successfully constructed their covered walks, and voraciously attacked my shirt, all in an hour’s time.
My present to the governor consisted of a very fine blue bernus, a kaftan of fine red cloth, a small pocket pistol, two muslin turbans, a red cap, two loaves of sugar, and some smaller articles. The eccentric man received me with undisguised pleasure as an old ac- quaintance ; but being aware that I had a tolerable supply of handsome articles with me, he wanted to induce me to sell to him all the fine things I possessed : but I cut the matter short by telling him, once for all, that I was not a merchant, and did not engage in any commerce. On the whole, he was well pleased with his presents; but he wanted me to give him another small pistol, and, in the course of my stay
VOL. IV. H
98 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LY.
here, I was obliged to comply with his request. He
had a cover made for the pair, and used to carry them constantly about his person, frightening every- body by firing off the caps into their faces.
It was, no doubt, a very favourable circumstance -
for me that the ghaladima of Sdkoto was at this time staying here; for under the protection of the unscru- pulous governor of Katsena, I should scarcely have reached the residence of the emir el Mumenin in safety. The ghaladima, who was the inspector of Katsena as well as of Zanfara, had collected the tri- bute of both provinces, and was soon to start, with his treasure and the articles he had purchased there, on his home journey, so that there did not seem to be time enough for sending some of my people to Kané to make there the necessary purchases; but circumstances, which I shall soon mention, delayed us so much that there would have been ample opportunity for doing so, and thus saving a consider- able sum of money. The ghaladima was a simple, straightforward man, not very intelligent, certainly, nor generous, but good-natured and sociable. Born of a female slave, he had very little about him of the general characteristics of the Fulbe, being tall and broad-shouldered, with a large head, broad features, and tolerably dark complexion.
I made some considerable purchases in this place, amounting altogether to 1,208,000 shells, employing the greatest part of my cash in providing myself with the cotton and silk manufactures of Kandé and
RRR ARIE sities tal a yi?
Caap. LV. THE GHALADI/MA OF SO’KOTO. 99
Nupe, in order to pave my way, by means of these favourite articles, through the countries on the middle course of the Niger, where nothing is esteemed more highly than these native manufactures.* But, as I afterwards found out, I sustained a considerable loss in buying the Nupe tobes here, at least 20 per cent. dearer than I should have been able to do in Gando; but this I could not possibly know beforehand, nor was it my previous intention to make any stay in that place, where large parcels of these articles are never brought into the market. I also added to my store a few more articles of Arab manufacture, there having arrived, on the 5th of March, a very numerous caravan of Ghadamsi and other people from the north, with
* I bought here altogether 75 tirkedis or woman-cloths, which form the usual standard article in Timbtiktu, and from which narrow shirts for the males are made; 35 black tobes of Kano manufacture ; 20 ditto of Nape manufacture; 20 silk of different descriptions; 232 black shawls for covering the face, as the best presents for the Tawarek. I also bought here, besides, four very good cloth bernises from some TawAt traders lately arrived from their country with horses, and some other little merchandise, and half a dozen of “ hamail,” or sword-hangings, of red silk of Fas manufacture. I also provided myself here with water-skins and kulabu, or large skins for covering the luggage for the whole of my journey. No place in the whole of Negroland is so famous for excellent leather and the art of tanning as Kaétsena: and if Thad taken a larger supply of these articles with me it would have been very profitable; but of course these leather articles require a great deal of room. I also bought a good quantity of the tobacco of Katsena, which is held in great estimation even in Timbuiktu, whither the excellent tobacco from Wadi Nin is brought in considerable quantity.
ie
100 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LV.
not less than from 400 to 500 camels, but without bringing me even a single line, either from my friends in Europe or even from those in Africa. Having like- wise arranged with ‘Ali el A’geren the Méjebri who had accompanied me from Kukawa, buying from him what little merchandise he had, and taking him into my service for nine dollars a month, I prepared every- thing for my journey ; and I was extremely anxious to be gone, as the rainy season was fast approaching. On the 26th of February evident signs were ob- served of the approach of the wet season,—the whole southern quarter of the heavens being thickly over- cast with clouds, while the air also was extremely damp, just as after ashower. Mounting on horseback, in order to observe better these forerunners of the ‘“daimana,” I clearly distinguished that it was raining in the direction of Zariya and Nupe; and even in our immediate neighbourhood a few drops fell. In the course of the evening the freshness and coolness of the air was most delicious, just as is the case after a fall of rain; and summer lightning was flashing fee the southern sky.
The ghaladima also was very anxious to be gone; but the army of the Gdéberawa being ready to start on an expedition, on a grand scale, against the terri- tory of the Fulbe, we could not leave the place before we knew exactly what direction the hostile army would take. They having at length set out on their foray, on the 7th of March, we began to watch their movements very anxiously, each of these two powers,
Cuar. LV. APPROACH OF THE RAINY SEASON. LOL
— the independent pagans as well as the conquering Fuilbe,— having in their pay numbers of spies in the towns of their enemies. Only two days before the Géberawa left their home, they killed Bu-Bakr the chief spy whom ‘Aliyu, the sultan of Sdkoto, enter- tained in their town.
In the company of the ghaladima there was a younger brother of his, of the name of Al-hattu, who had lost the better portion of the character of a free man by a mixture of slave-blood, and behaved, at times, like the most intolerable beggar; but he proved of great service to me in my endeavour to become acquainted with all the characteristic features of the country and its inhabitants.
Besides this man, my principal acquaintance during my stay in Katsena this time was a Tawati of the name of ‘Abd e’ Rahman, a very amiable and social man, and, as a faki, possessing a certain degree of learning. He had been a great friend of the sultan Bello, and expatiated with the greatest enthusiasm on the qualities and achievements of this distinguished ruler of Negroland. He also gave me the first hints of some of the most important subjects relating to the geography and history of Western Negroland, and called my attention particularly to a man whom he represented as the most learned of the present generation of the inhabitants of Sdkoto, and from whom, he assured me, I should not fail to obtain what information I wanted. This man was ‘Abd el Kader
H 3
Pe ene ee a awe BN LOO Ny Rie ee ee RE OV Sere Ae Se eee ee ee et ae ah oe re ere. ee ee es
102 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LY.
dan Taffa (meaning, the son of Mustapha), on whose stores of knowledge I drew largely. My intercourse with “Abd e’ Rahman was occasionally interrupted by an amicable tilt at our respective creeds. On one occasion, when my learned friend was endeavouring to convince me of the propriety of polygamy, he adduced as an illustration, that in matters of the table we did not confine ourselves toa single dish, but took a little fowl, a little fish, and a little roast beef; and how absurd, he argued, was it, to restrict our- selves, in the intercourse with the other sex, to only one wife. It was during my second stay in Katsena that I collected most of the information which I have communicated on a former occasion with regard to the history of Hausa.
Besides this kind of occupation, my dealings with the governor, and an occasional ride which I took through and outside the town, I had a great deal to do in order to satisfy the claims of the inhabitants upon my very small stock of medicinal knowledge, especially at the commencement of my residence, when I was severely pestered with applications, having generally from 100 to 200 patients in my courtyard every morning. The people even brought me some- times animals to cure; and I was not a little amused when they once brought me a horse totally blind, which they thought I was able to restore to its former power of vision.
Living in Katsena is not so cheap as in most other places of Negroland — at least we thought so at the
Crap. LY. UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTY. 103
time, but we afterwards found Sdékoto, and many places between that and Timbuktu, much dearer; but the character of dearth in Katsena is increased by the scarcity of shells in the market, which form the standard currency, and, especially after I had cir- culated a couple of hundred dollars, I was often obliged to change a dollar for 2300 shells instead of 2500.
I had here a disagreeable business to arrange; for suddenly, on the 18th of March, there arrived our old creditor Mohammed e’ Sfaksi, whose claims upon us I thought I had settled long ago by giving him a bill upon Fezzan, besides the sum of two hundred dollars which J had paid him on the spot*: but, to my great astonishment, he produced a letter, in which Mr. Gagliuffi, Her Majesty’s agent in Murzuk, informed him that I was to pay him in Sudan.
Such is the trouble to which a European traveller is exposed in these countries, by the injudicious ar- rangements of those very people whose chief object ought to be to assist him, while at the same time all his friends in Europe think that he is well provided, and that he can proceed on his difficult errand with- out obstacle.
On the 19th of March we received information that the army of the Goberawa had encamped on the site of the former town of Roma, or Ruma; and I was given to understand that I must hold myself in readi- ness to march at an hour’s notice.
* See Vol. IIT. p. 473. H 4
104 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LV.
Meanwhile the governor of Katsena, who had re- ceived exaggerated accounts of the riches which I was carrying with me, was endeavouring, by every means at his disposal, to separate me from the ghaladima, in order to have me in his own power ; and his measures ~ were attended with a good deal of success, at least in the case of my Arab companion ‘Ali el A’geren, who, although a man of some energy, allowed himself too often to be frightened by the misrepresentations of the people. On his attempting to keep me back, I told him that, if he chose, he might stay behind, but | that I had made up my mind to proceed at once, in company with the ghaladima, whatever might happen. I had the more reason to beware of the governor, as just at the period of this my second stay here, when he knew that I was going to his liege lord, I had had another opportunity of becoming fully aware of the flagrant injustice exercised by him and his ministers. For the sherif, who, as I have said, had attached him- self to my party in Zinder, having died here of dysen- tery soon after our arrival, he seized upon what little property he had left, notwithstanding that person had placed himself, in some respects, under my protection ; and although he pretended he would send it to his re- latives, there is no doubt that he or his people kept it back. The safety of the property of any European who should die in these regions ought to be taken into - account in any treaty to be concluded with a native chief; but no such contingency was provided for in draughts of the treaties which we took with us.
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CHAP. LVI.
JOURNEY FROM KATSENA TO SOKOTO.
Tue whole town was in motion when we left; — yfonaay, for the governor himself was to accompany *" ?!s* us for some days’ journey, as the whole country was exposed to the most imminent danger, and further on he was to send a numerous escort along with us. It was a fine morning, and, though the rainy season had not yet set in in this province, many of the trees were clad already in a new dress, as if in anticipation of the fertilizing power of the more favoured season.
The hajilij had begun, about the commencement of March, to put out new foliage and shoots of young fruit ; and the doréwa or Parkia exhibited its blossoms of the most beautiful purple, hanging down to a great leneth from the branches. The dordwa, which is en- tirely wanting in the whole of Bornu, constitutes here the chief representative of the vegetable kingdom. It is from the beans of this tree that the natives prepare the vegetable cakes called “doddéwa,” with which they season their food.* Next to this tree another one, which I had not seen before, called here “ runhu,” and at present full of small yellow blossoms, was most common.
* See the description which Clapperton gives of the manner in which these cakes are prepared. (Denham and Clapperton’s Travels, ii. p. 129.)
106 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. . Cnar. LVI.
The first day we made only a short march of about three miles, to a village called Kabakawa, where the ghaladima had taken up his quarters. I had scarcely dismounted, under a tree at the side of the village, when my protector called upon me, and in a very friendly manner invited me, urgently, to take up my quarters inside the village, stating that the neighbourhood was not quite safe, as the Géberdwa had carried away three women from this very village the preceding day. I, however, pre- ferred my tent and the open air, and felt very little inclination to confide my valuable property, on which depended entirely the success of my enterprise, to the frail huts, which are apt to catch fire at any moment ; for while I could not combat against nature, I had confidence enough in my arms, and in my watchful- - ness, not to be afraid of thieves and robbers.*
In the afternoon the ghaladima came out of the hamlet, and took his seat under a neighbouring tree, when I returned his visit of the morning, and en- deavoured to open with him and his companions a free and unrestrained intercourse; for I was only too happy to get out of the hands of the lawless governor of Katsena, who, I felt convinced, would not have been deterred by any scruples from possessing him- self of my riches: indeed he had gone so far as to tell me that, if I possessed anything of value, such as pistols handsomely mounted, I should give them to him rather than to the sultan of Sdkoto, for that
* The wells here were eight fathoms.
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Cuae. LVI. TOBACCO AND YAMS. 107
he himself was the emir el Mumenin; nay, he even told me that his liege lord was alarmed at the sight of a pistol.
In order to avoid the enemy, we were ‘Tuesday, obliged, instead of following a westerly di- “eh ??n% rection, to keep at first directly southward. The country through which our road lay was very beau- tiful. The doréwa, which, the preceding day, had formed the principal ornament of the landscape, in the first part of this day’s march gave place entirely to other trees, such as the tall rimi or bentang tree, the kuka or monkey-bread tree, and the deléb palm or gigifa (Borassus flabelliformis?); but beyond the village of Déka, the doréwa, which is the principal tree of the provinces of Katsena and Zariya, again came prominently forward, while the kadéna also, or butter tree, and the alléluba, afforded a greater variety to the vegetation. The alléluba (which, on my second stay at Kano, I saw in full blossom) bears a small fruit, which the natives eat, but which I never tried myself. Even the dum palm, with its fan-shaped yellow-coloured foliage, gave occasionally greater relief to the fresher vegetation around. ‘The country was populous and well cultivated; and extensive tobacco- grounds and large fields of yams or gwaza were seen, —both objects being almost a new sight to me; for tobacco, which I had been so much surprised to see cultivated to such an extent in the country of the pagan Musgu, is scarcely grown at all in Bérnu, with the exception of Zinder, and I had first observed
108 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. -Cuar. LVI.
it largely cultivated near the town of Katsena, while yams, as I have already had repeatedly occasion to mention, are not raised at all in Central Negroland. Numerous herds of cattle were seen dotting the landscape, and contributed largely to the interest of the scenery. But the district of Maje especially, which we traversed after a march of about seven miles, impressed me with the highest opinion of the fertility and beauty of this country. Here, also, we met a troop of Itisan with their camels.
Having then proceeded for about two miles through a more open and well-cultivated country with ex- tensive cotton-grounds, large plantations of indigo, and wide fields planted with sweet potatoes, or dan- kali, we reached the village called Kulkada, where the governor of Katsena had taken up his quarters; but, leaving this outlaw at a respectful distance, we followed in the track of the ghaladima, who had been obliged to seek for quarters in a small Tawarek ham- let at the distance of a mile and a half towards the south-east, — a remarkable resting-place for a party proceeding to the westward. The heat was very great ; and the dordwa trees, with their scanty acacia- like foliage, which, besides a few gonda trees (Carica Papaya) and a solitary ngabbore, were the only mem- bers of the vegetable kingdom here seen, afforded but insufficient shade, the dryness of the country being the more felt, as the supply of water was rather limited.
I was hospitably treated in the evening, not only
Cuap. LVI. KU’LKADA’.—KU’RAYE’. 109
by the ghaladima, who sent me a sheep, but even by the inhabitants of the hamlet, who came to visit me in large numbers. I learnt that they were Imghad, natives of Tawdr Nwaijdid, the village which I passed on my road from Tintéllust to A’gades*, and that they had seen me in A’sben, and knew all about my affairs. They were settled here as tenants.
IT had just mounted my horse, and my weanesaay, camels had gone on in advance, when a “™h??T messenger arrived, who had been sent after me from KAtsena, bringing a letter from Mr. Gagliuffi, Her Majesty’s agent in Murzuk, a mere duplicate of a letter already received, with reference to the sending of the box (which, however, did not reach me), but not a single line from Europe. We had to retrace our road all the way to Kulkada, and from thence, after a march of about six miles through a dense forest, reached the walled town of Kurayé, and, not being aware that the country on the other side was more open and offered a far better camping-ground, pitched our tent on that side whence we had come, not far from the market-place, consisting of several rows of stalls or sheds. A market was held in the afternoon; and we bought grain and onions, but looked in vain for the favourite fruit of the tamarind tree, to which we were greatly indebted for the pre- servation of our health.
The town was of considerable size, and contained from 6000 to 7000 inhabitants, but no clay buildings.
* See Vol. I. p. 391.
110 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI.
The wall was in excellent repair, and well provided with loopholes for the bowmen, and it was even strengthened by a second wall, of lesser height, on the outside. The town has three gates. The wells were three fathoms in depth.
Thursday, he country on the other side of the March 24th. town of Kurayé seemed to surpass in beauty the district which we had left behind us; and the bentang tree, the sacred tree of the former pagan inhabitants, rose here to its full majestic growth, while, besides the doréwa and the butter tree, the ngdbbore (or sycamore) and the dinnia appeared in abundance. The cultivation was here limited to sorghum or Indian millet. After awhile the ground became rather undulating, and we had to cross several small watercourses, at present dry, while boulders of granite protruded here and there. The path was enlivened by the several troops of horsemen which constituted our expeditionary corps. There was first the governor of Katsena himself, with a body of about 200 horse; then there was an auxiliary squadron of about fifty horse, sent by Démbo the governor of Kazaure; and lastly Kaura, the serki-n-yaki, or com- mander-in-chief of Katsena, with a body of about thirty-five well-mounted troopers. ‘This officer, at the present time, is the most warlike man in the province of Katsena, and had greatly contributed to the overthrow and disgrace of Sadiku the former governor, in the hope that the government of the province might fall to his share; but he had been
Cnae. LVI. EXPEDITIONARY CORPS. | rt
sadly disappointed in his expectations. As for the ghaladima, he had about twenty mounted companions, the most warlike among whom was a younger brother of his, of the name of ‘Omar, or Ghomaro, who was descended from a Pullo mother, and, on account of his noble birth, had better claims to the office of ghaladima than his brother. Most of these troopers were very fantastically dressed, in the Hausa fashion, and in a similar manner to those I have described on a former occasion. Some of the horses were fine, strong animals, although in height they are sur- passed by the Bérnu horses.
We watered our cattle in a kurremi or dry water- course, which contained a number of wells from one fathom to a fathom and a half in depth, and was beautifully skirted with deléb palms, while a granite mound on its eastern shore, rose to an altitude of from eighty to a hundred feet. I ascended it, but did not obtain a distant view. Near this water- course the cultivation was a little interrupted; but further on the country became again well cultivated, broken here and there by some underwood, while the monkey-bread tree, the dum palm, great numbers of a species of acacia called ‘“ drred,” and the “ merké” dotted the fields. The latter tree, which I have mentioned on a former occasion, bears a fruit which, when mixed with the common native grain, is said to preserve horses from worms.
Thus we reached the town of Kurrefi, or Kulfi, and were not a little puzzled by the very considerable
112): TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVI.
outworks, consisting of moats, which the inhabitants had thrown up in front of their town, besides the threefold wall, and the double moat which surrounded the latter, as shown in the woodcut.
ve Iii : i i) Wy rs ey ; ai ne 9; J Ae. KA ; b = i 7 ; = paces Z ope if Pagid TiN Le \\\ NGO ol ieee 4 /f // ss Se | \ ei Weise f / ' aN ~ aD efx, ~ 4 Lf 7 7, Hi Ree a LZ Ed poe yy b // # SS ses fs Sin a yA YA oa = See ae “
1. Outer entrance, leading into a large square surrounded with a double moat, and containing three huts for the guards.
. Second entrance, leading from this outwork through the outer moat which surrounds the town.
. Gate leading into the projecting angle of the wall, from which a second gate leads into the town.
. Granite mounts inside the town.
. Outer moats of the wall.
. Situation of my tent.
. Granite mount outside the town.
. Open pasture-grounds.
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The town was said to have been founded only three years before, being peopled from the remains of other places, which were destroyed by the enemy. It may contain from 8000 to 9000 inhabitants; but it had recently suffered from a conflagration. The wall was full of loopholes, and it had a gate on each side except the eastern one.
Having made our way with great difficulty through the moats, instead of taking up our quarters inside the wall, to the great astonishment of the people we pitched our tent outside, at some distance from the
Cuav. LVI. AN AGREEABLE INCIDENT. 113
western gate. Such was the confidence which we placed in our firearms. A rocky eminence, such as are met with also inside the town, started up at some little distance from our camping-ground; and a majestic dordwa, the largest tree of this species which I saw on my journey, shaded the place to a considerable extent, but attracted a number of people, who disturbed my privacy. The ghaladima had taken a northerly road, to the town of Tsauri, which he had recently founded, and did not arrive till the after- noon.
On mounting my horse in the morning priday, to pursue my march, a Pullo came up “nt to me and handed me a letter, which he begged me to take to a relative of his in Timbuktu. This showed his full confidence in my success; and it did not fail to inspire me with the same feeling. The inhabitants of the town marched out their band of musicians, who played a farewell to us; and the several troops of horsemen, in their picturesque attire, thronged along the path winding between the granite mounds which broke the level on all sides. Groups of deléb and dum palms towered, with their fan-shaped foliage, over the whole scenery.
We had now entered the more unsafe border coun- try between the Mohammedans and pagans, while changing our direction from south to west; and the cultivation was less extensive, although even here a little cotton was to be seen. After a march of about
VOL. IV. I
114 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVI.
eight miles we traversed the site of a deserted town called Takabawa, inclosed between rocky cliffs on all sides, and at present changed into a large cotton- ground, the inhabitants having sought refuge in the more rocky district towards the south. But although the destructive influence which war had exercised upon this province was plainly manifested by the site of another town which we passed soon afterwards, yet the country was not quite deserted, and even small herds of cattle were observed further on. Mean- while the dum palm became entirely predominant, and rocky cliffs and eminences continued to break the surface; but beyond a rocky ridge which, dotted with an abundance of monkey-bread trees, crossed our path, the country became more level and open, enlivened by herds, and exhibiting an uninterrupted tract of cultivation.
Thus we reached the walls of the considerable town of Zékka, and here again we had to make our way with difficulty through the moats which started off from the walls as a sort of outwork, when we pitched our tent on the west side, in the shade of two large dordwa trees. Even here I did not choose to take up my quarters inside the town, which was full of people. Besides those detachments which had come along with us, there arrived here also an auxiliary troop of 110 horse from Zariya, together with the governor of U’mmadau with twenty horse- men. The Kandwa, or people of Kané, who were proceeding to Sdkoto, had continued their march
Cuar. LVI. TOWN OF ZE/KKA. 115
straight to U’mmadati, in order to take up their quarters in that place.
Besides numbers of sick people from the town, who came to solicit my medical assistance, I received also a visit in the evening from one of the five governors of the place, who bears the title of serki-n-Fellani. He came to ask whether I had not for sale another pair of pocket pistols, such as I had given to the governor of Katsena; for my eccentric friend played with the small arms I had made him a present of, all the day long, to the great alarm of every- body, so that the rumour of my possessing such articles had spread over the whole of this part of Sudan, and even Kaura had pestered me greatly on this account.
In the town of Zékka resides also the former go- vernor of the wealthy town or district of Ruma, mentioned repeatedly by Captain Clapperton, but destroyed by the Gdberdwa after the period of his travels ; that officer still bears the title of serki-n- Rima. There was a pond of dirty water near our encampment ; but good drinkable water was only to be obtained from a watercourse at a considerable distance, which, although dry at present, afforded wells at very little depth in its gravelly bottom.
We remained here the whole forenoon, gaturday, as we had now the most difficult part of March 26th. our journey before us; but instead of having leisure to prepare myself for an unusual amount of exertion, all my spare time was taken up by a disagreeable
Kee
116 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI.
business, — the governor of Katsena having suc- ceeded in seducing from my service, in the most diseraceful manner, the Ferjani Arab, whom I had hired for the whole journey to Timbuktu and back, and whom [ could ill afford to lose. This lad, who had accompanied Ibrahim Basha’s expedition to Syria and an expedition to Kordofan, and who had after- wards resided with the Welad Sliman for some time in Kanem, might have been of great use to me in case of emergency. But, as it was, I could only be grateful to Providence for ridding me of this faith- less rogue at so cheap a rate: and the insidious governor at least had no reason to boast of his conduct; for the Arab, as soon as he found himself well mounted, and dressed in a bernts, by his new master, took to his heels, and, following the track with which he had become acquainted in my com-
pany, succeeded in reaching Zinder, and from thence
returned to his native country.
We here separated from most of our companions, —the governor of Katsena, as well as the people from Kané and Zariya, who were carrying tribute to the sultan of Sdékoto, remaining behind, and only an escort or “rékkia” of fifty horsemen continuing in our company. The hostile army of the Gdberawa being in this neighbourhood, the danger of the road further on was very considerable; and the Kanawa and Zozawa or Zegézegé, of whom the latter carried 2,000,000 shells, 500 tobes, and 30 horses, as tribute, were too much afraid of their property to accompany
ee ne ee ae eee
Cnar. LVI. A DANGEROUS NIGHT’S MARCH. salar
us. There had also arrived a troop of about 100 fataki with asses laden entirely with the famous do- déwa cakes; but they also remained behind.
The governor himself, however, escorted us for a mile or two, to a large koramma called Mejidi, which no doubt forms one of the branches of the ko- ramma of Bunka, and contains several wells, where we watered our horses and filled our water-skins for a night’s march. Fine cotton-grounds and fields of onions fringed the border of the valley.
As soon as we left this winding watercourse, we entered a dense forest only occasionally broken by open spots covered with reed grass, and we pursued our march without interruption the whole night, with the exception of a short halt just in the dusk of the evening. I[ had taken the lead from the be- ginning ; and the ghaladima, who was fully sensible of the great advantage of my firearms, sent messenger after messenger to me till he brought me to a stand, and thus managed to get all his slaves and camels in advance, so that I could only proceed very slowly. After a march of little more than twelve miles from the koramma, we entered a fertile and picturesque sort of vale, inclosed towards the north and south by rocky cliffs, and intersected by a narrow strip of succulent herbage, where water is apparently to be found at a little depth. This is the site of the town of Moniya, which had likewise been destroyed by the Goberawa three years previously. Their army had even encamped here the previous day; and when our
13
118 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI.
companions found the traces of their footsteps, which indicated that they had taken an easterly direction, all the people were seized with fright, and the inten- tion which had been entertained, of resting here for a few hours of the night, was given up, and with an advanced guard of twenty horse, and a guard of from fifty to sixty, we kept cautiously and anxiously on.
About midnight we again entered dense forest, consisting chiefly of underwood. We marched the whole night, and emerged in the morning into open cultivated country. We then passed several small hamlets, and, crossing first a small and further on a larger watercourse, reached, a little before nine o'clock, the considerable place Bunka, surrounded by a clay wall about twelve feet in height, and by a half natural half artificial stockade of dense forest. In this town, the governor of which is directly dependent upon the ghaladima of Sdékoto, my protector had taken quarters; but, true to my old principle, I here also preferred encamping outside, and, turning round the town, on the south side, along a very winding and narrow passage through dense prickly under- wood, I pitched my tent on the west side, in the midst of an open suburb consisting of several straggling eroups of huts.
The inhabitants of the village proved to be indus- trious and sociable, and, soon after we had encamped, brought me several articles for sale, such as good strong ropes, of which we were greatly in want. In general a traveller cannot procure good ropes in these
Cuar. LVI. BU'/NKA. 119
countries ; and, for an expedition on a larger scale, he does well to provide himself with this article. The ropes made of ngille or the dum bush last only a few days ; and those made of hides, which are very useful in the dry season, for tying up the legs of the camels, and even for fastening the luggage, are not fit for the rainy season. We also bought here a good supply of tamarinds, plenty of fowls (for from thirty to forty kurdi each), and a little milk. Part of the inha- bitants of this village, at least, consisted of A’sbenawa settlers; and they informed us that the army of the Géberawa had come close to their town, but that they had driven them back.
The town itself, though not large, is tolerably well inhabited, containing a population of about 5000. It is skirted on the east side by a considerable watercourse, at present dry, but containing excellent water close under the gravelly surface, and forming a place of resort for numbers of the grey species of monkey.
The approach of the rainy season was indicated by a slight fall of rain.
The ghaladima, whom the imminence of Monga the danger had induced to fix his departure Meh 28th. for the next day, instead of allowing a day for repose, had already gone on in advance a considerable way, when we followed him, and soon after left on our right a large cheerful-looking hamlet, shaded by splendid trees, and enlivened by numbers of poultry. Exten- sive cultivated grounds testified to the industry of
14
ATP cone bot tite SS OPO agers. ee hry at ND
120 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. —Cuar. LVI.
the inhabitants, who likewise belonged to a tribe of the A’sbenawa, or rather to a mixed race of people. Having then crossed dense underwood, where the Mimosa Nilotica, here called ‘ elku,” was standing in full blossom, while the ground consisted of sand, we reached, after a march of about a mile, the south-
eastern corner of the wall of the considerable town of Zyrmi. The watercourse of Bunka had been close
on our left, providing the inhabitants with a never-
failing supply of excellent water, which is found close
under the surface of the fine gravel which composes
its bed. |
- Zyrmi is an important town even at present, but,
being under the dominion of the Fulbe, is only
capable of preserving its existence by a constant
struggle with Gober and Marddi. However, the go-
vernor of this town is not now master of the whole of Zanfara, as he was in the time of Captain Clapperton,
who visited it on his journey to Sdkoto*, the
Fulbe, or Féllani, having found it more conducive to their policy to place each governor of a walled town,
in this province, under the direct allegiance of Sokoto,
in order to prevent the loss of the whole country by the rebellion of a single man. Some ninety or one hundred years ago, before the destruction of the capital, this province was almost the most flourishing country of Negroland ; but it is at present divided into a number of petty states, each of which follows a different policy ;
* Clapperton, Second Expedition, p. 150.
Geir. LVI. ZY’RMI.—STATE OF ZA’NFARA. 191
hence it is difficult to know which towns are still dependent upon the dominion of Sdkoto, and which adhere to their enemies the Goberawa.* The town is still tolerably well inhabited, the western more densely than the eastern quarter.
The direct road leads along the wall, and close be- yond passes by the site of the former town Dada; but, in order to water my horse, I descended into the kora4mma, which was here encompassed by banks about twenty-five feet high, the gradually-shelving slopes of which were laid out in kitchen-gardens, where onions were cultivated. Passing then a tract thickly overgrown with monkey-bread trees, we tra- versed a straggling village, the whole appearance of which left a feeling of peace and comfort, rather than of the constant state of warfare which prevails in this country. But everything in human life depends on habitude; and these poor people, not knowing any better, bear the state of insecurity to which they are exposed, without uneasiness.
Numerous neat cottages were just being built; and the western end of the village especially, being adorned by several groups of the génda tree, or Hrica Papaya, had a very pleasant appearance. Dyeing-pits are not wanting in any of the larger towns of Zanfara; and a numerous herd of cattle met our view close beyond the village.
* For further details on this subject, see Appendix J.; and for an outline of the history of Zanfara, see the Chronological Tables.
122 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Guar. LVI.
When we again reached the direct road, the neigh- bourhood of our friends was distinctly indicated by a very strong and not quite aromatic smell, which proceeded from the luggage of those of the caravan of native traders (or fataki) who had attached them- selves to our troop in Zékka, leaving their more cautious brethren behind. The merchandise of these small traders consisted, for the most part, of those vegetable cakes, called dodéwa, which I have men- tioned repeatedly, and which constitute an important article of trade, as the doréwa or Parkia, from the fruit of which those cakes are made, thrives in great abundance in the province of Zegzeg, while it is com- paratively rare in the provinces of Kébbi and Gober. Three thousand of these cakes constitute an ass-load, and each of them in general is sold in Sdkoto for five kurdi, having been bought on the spot for one uri; so that the profit, being not less than 500 per cent., makes this commerce attractive for poor people, not- withstanding the dangerous state to which this road is at present reduced. The return freight which these petty merchants bring back from Sdkoto, generally consists of the salt of Fégha.
Our further road conducted us through a more rugged district, intersected by numerous small water- courses with very rocky beds, and mostly covered with dense forest only now and then broken by a small tract of cultivated ground producing even a little cotton. Thus we reached the town of Duchi, the name of which, meaning “the rocks,” served well to
Cnar. LVI. DU’CHI. 123
indicate the peculiar nature of the place, which has a very wild and romantic appearance—a labyrinth of
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rocky eminences intersected by a small ravine, as shown in the woodcut: the dwellings, which are scattered about in several groups, can scarcely be seen, owing to the prevalence of rocks. Several groups of dum palms contribute greatly to enhance the picturesque character of the place.
Having got inside the wall, which consisted of loose stones, we had some difficulty in finding a fit spot for encamping, and at length, having traversed the whole place, pitched our tent, not far from the western gate, but still inside the wall, in the shade of a fine tsamia or tamarind tree, and close to a small group of huts. The principal hamlet lies nearer the east side. The little watercourse contained only a very small supply of water under the gravelly surface of the bed; but on my return from the west, in the autumn of the following year, a foaming brook was rushing along it. The interesting character of the scenery induced me, in the course of the night,
124 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI.
to leave my tent and to sit. down for a while on a rock, which commanded the whole interior of the town. There I had a charming prospect over the scene by clear moonlight, while people were busily employed the whole night, collecting the small supply of water trom the channel, for their next day’s wants.
Tuesday, tn order to pass the narrow gate, if gate March 29h. i¢ may be called, I was obliged to have the two posts which encompassed it on each side removed. The whole country round about is rocky, with only a slight covering of fertile soil, so that nothing but Indian millet is cultivated, which thrives very well in rocky ground. But the country was adorned with a tolerable variety of trees, such as monkey-bread trees, most of which had young leaves, the doréwa, the kadena, and the merke. While crossing a small rocky ridge, we were joined by a troop of people bearing large loads of cotton upon their heads, which they were carrying to the considerable market of Badardwa. ‘This cotton was distinguished by its snow-white colour, and seemed to be of very aie quality.
Beyond the rocky ridge, the country became more open, rich in trees and cultivated fields; and having passed a village, we turned round the south-western corner of the walled town of Sabén Birni, making our way with great difficulty, and not without some damage to the fences as well as to our luggage, through the narrow lanes of an open suburb. The western side of the town was bordered by a koramma containing
Cuar. LVI. MARKET OF BADARA’WA. 125
a considerable sheet of stagnant water of very bad quality, and fringed all round by a border of kitchen- gardens, where onions were cultivated. ‘The governor of Sabén Birni, like that of Zyrmi, is directly de- pendent on the emir of Sékoto. The name or title of his dominion is Bazay.
From hence, along a path filled with market people, we reached the walled town of Badarawa, which, like most of the towns of Zanfara, is sur- rounded on all sides with a dense border of timber, affording to the archers, who form the strength of the natives, great advantage in adefence, and making any attack, in the present condition of the strategetical art in this country, very difficult. In the midst of this dense body of trees there was a very considerable market, attended by nearly 10,000 people, and well supplied with cotton*, which seémed to be the . Staple commodity, while indian millet (sorghum) also was in abundance. A great number of cattle were slaughtered in the market, and the meat retailed in small quantities. There was also a good supply of fresh butter (which is rarely seen in Negroland), formed in large lumps, cleanly prepared, and swim- ming in water; they were sold for 500 kurdi each. Neither was there any scarcity of onions, a vegetable which is extensively cultivated in the province of Zanfara, the smaller ones being sold for one uri, the larger ones for two kurdi each: These onions are
* It was extensively cultivated in this province at the beginning of the sixteenth century. (Leo Africanus, lib. vii. ¢. 13.)
126 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. -‘Cuar. LVI.
mostly cultivated round a large tebki, about half a mile to the west of the town, which even at the present season was still of considerable size. Instead of entering the narrow streets of the town, I pitched my tent in the open fields, at a considerable distance from the wall; for I was the more in want of fresh air, as I was suffering greatly from headache. The consequence was that I could not even indulge in the simple luxuries of the market, but had recourse to my common medicine of tamarind water.
There was some little danger here, not so much from a foreign foe as from our proximity to a con- siderable hamlet of Tawarek of the tribe of the Itisan, who have settlements in all these towns of Zanfara. While endeavouring to recruit myself by rest and simple diet, I received a visit from an intelligent and well-behaved young faki, Mallem Dadi, who belonged to the suite of the ghaladima, and whose company was always agreeable to me. He informed me that the Zanfarawa and the Gdberawa had regarded each other with violent hatred from ancient times, — Ba- bari, the founder of Kalawa, or Alkalawa, the former capital of Géber, having based the strength and well- being of his own country on the destruction of the old capital of Zanfara, ninety-seven years previously. Hence the people of Zadnfara embarked heart and soul in the religious and political rising of the sheikh ‘Othman against his liege lord the ruler of Géber. I. learned also that the same amount of tribute, which I have before mentioned as carried on this occasion
Cuar. LVI. TRIBUTE. —FIRST RU’DU. 197
by the messengers of Zaériya to the emir el Mimenin, was paid almost every second month, while from Ka. tsena it was very difficult to obtain a regular tribute, the governor of that town generally not paying more than 400,000 kurdi and forty articles, such as ber- nises, kaftans, &c., annually. It was only an excep- tional case, arising from the exertions of the ghala- dima as I was told, that he had sent, this year, 800,000 shells, besides a horse of Tarki breed, of the nominal value of 700,000 kurdi.
Allowing my camels to pursue the direct wreanesaay, road, I myself took a rather roundabout “#2 20% way, in order to get a sight of the tebki from which the town is supplied; and I was really astonished at the considerable expanse of clear water which it exhibited at this time of the year (shortly before the setting in of the rainy season), when water in the whole of Negroland becomes very scanty. The ground consisted of fine vegetable soil, while the cul- tivation along the path was scarcely interrupted; and in passing a hamlet we saw the inhabitants making the first preparations for the labours of the field. Cotton was also cultivated to a considerable extent. About a mile and a half further on, at the village of Sungururé, which is surrounded with a strong kefii, I observed the first ridu, a sort of light hut con- sisting of nothing but a thatched roof raised upon four poles from eight to ten feet in height, and affording a safe retreat to the inhabitants, during their night’s rest, against the swarms of mosquitoes
128 TRAVELS IN. AFRICA. Cuap. LVI.
which infest the whole region along the swampy creeks of the Niger, the people entering these ele- vated bedrooms from below. and shutting the entrance be- hind them, as represented the accompanying woodeut.
Leaving, then, the walled town of Katuru close on our left, we entered a dense forest richly interwoven with creep- ing plants, and intersected by a large kor4mma with a very uneven bottom, affording sufficient proof of the vele- mence of the torrent which at times rushes along it. At present it contained nothing but pools of stagnant water in several places, where we observed a large herd of camels, belonging to a party of Itisan, just being watered, while tobacco was cultivated on the border of the koramma. A little further on, the tor- rent had swept away and undermined the banks in such a manner that they presented the appearance of artificial walls. We met several natives on the road, who, although Fulbe or FélJani (that is to say, be- longing to the conquering tribe) and themselves ap- parently Mohammedans, wore nothing but a leas apron round their loins.
Thus we reached, a little past noon, the town San- sanne ‘Aisa, which was originally a mere fortified encampment or ‘“sansanne.” But its advanced and in some respects isolated position, as an outlying post
PN aia tistiess
Caarv. LVI. SANSA’NNE ‘AI/SA. 129
against the Gdber4wa and Mariyadawa, rendered it essential that it should be strong enough by its own resources to offer a long resistance; and it has in consequence become a walled town of considera- ble importance, so that travellers generally take this roundabout way, with a strong northerly deviation. Here also the wall is surrounded with a dense forest, affording a sort of natural fortification.
Having entered the town and convinced myself of its confined and cheerless character, I resolved even here to encamp outside, though at consider- able risk; and I went to the well, which was about half a mile distant to the south, and, being five fa- thoms in depth, contained a rich supply of excellent water. Here a small caravan of people from A’dar, laden with corn and about to return to their native home, were encamped; and I pitched my tent on an open spot, close to some light cottages of Itisan set- tlers, who immediately brought me a little -fresh cheese as a specimen of their industry, and were well satisfied with a present which I made them in return, of a few razors and looking-glasses. These Tawarek are scattered over the whole of Western Sudan, not only frequenting those localities occa- sionally as traders, but even sometimes settled with their wives and children. Their women also did not fail to pay us a visit in the afternoon ; for they are extremely curious and fond of strangers.
When I had made myself comfortable, I received a visit from the ghaladima of the town; he brought
VOL. IV. K
130 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap. LVI.
me the compliments of the governor, who was a man of rather noble birth, being nobody else but ‘Ali Karami, the eldest son and presumed successor of ‘Aliyu the emir el Mumenin. He bears the pompous
title of serki-n-Gdber, “lord of Gédber,” although ~
almost the whole of that country is in the hands of the enemy. Having taken his leave, the messenger soon returned accompanied by Alhattu, the younger brother of the ghaladima of Sékoto, who was anxious to show his importance, brmging me a fat sheep as a present, which I acknowledged by the gift of a fine helali bernus, besides a red cap and turban; and the governor expressed his satisfaction at my present by sending me also corn for my horses, and half a dozen fowls. In the evening we had a short but violent tornado, which usually indicates the approach of the rainy season; but no rain fell, and we passed the night very comfortably in our open encampment, without any accident.
Thursday, We had a very difficult day’s march be- March 3ist. fore us, — the passage of the wilderness of Gundumi,—which can only be traversed by a forced march, and which, even upon a man of Captain Clapperton’s energies, had left the impression of the most wearisome journey he had ever performed in his life. But before returning into our westerly direction, we had first to follow a north-westerly path leading to a large pond or tebki, in order to provide ourselves with water for thejourney. It was still a good-sized sheet of water, though torn up and
Cuap. LVI. TEDIOUS NIGHT’S MARCH. fa)
agitated by numbers of men and animals that had preceded our party from the town; and we were therefore very fortunate in having provided ourselves with some excellent clear water from the well close to our place of encampment. The pond was in the midst of the forest, which towards its outskirts presented a cheerful aspect, enlivened by a great number of sycamore trees and even a few deléb palms, but which here assumed the more monotonous and cheerless character which seems to be common to all the extensive forests of Negroland.
The beginning of our march, after we had watered our animals and filled our water-skins, was rather inauspicious, our companions missing their way and with their bugles calling me and my people, who were pursuing the right track, far to the south, till, after endeavouring in vain to make our way through an impervious thicket, and after a considerable loss of time, anything but agreeable at the beginning of a desperate march of nearly thirty hours, we at length with the assistance of a Pullo shepherd regained the right track. We then pursued our march, travelling without any halt the whole day and the whole night through the dense forest, leaving the pond called tebki-n-Gundumi at some distance on our left, and not meeting with any signs of cultivation till a quarter before eleven the next morning, when, wearied in the extreme and scarcely able to keep up, we were met by some horsemen, who had been sent out from the camp at Gawasu to meet us, pro-
K 2
{ov TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVI.
vided with water-skins in order to bring up the strag- glers who had lagged behind from fatigue and thirst. And there were many who needed their assistance — one woman had even succumbed to exhaustion in the
course of the night; for such a forced march is. the
more fatiguing and exhausting as the dangers from a lurking enemy make the greatest possible silence and quiet indispensable, instead of the spirits being kept up with cheerful songs as is usually the case. But having once reached the cultivated grounds, after a
march of two miles and a half more we arrived at the first gawast trees which surround the village which 1s
named after them, ‘“‘Gawasu.” In the fields or ‘ kar- kara” adjoining this village, ‘Allyu the emir el Mu- menin had taken up his camping-ground, and was preparing himself for setting out upon an expedition against the Gdber people.
It was well that we had arrived—having been inces- santly marching for the last twenty-six hours, without taking into account the first part of the journey from the town to the pond; for I had never seen my horse in such a state of total exhaustion, while my people also fell down immediately they arrived. As for myself, kept up by the excitement of my situation, I did not feel much fatigued, but on the contrary felt strong enough to search without delay through the whole of my luggage, in order to select the choicest presents for the great prince of Sékoto, who was to set out the following morning, and upon whose reception depended a good deal of the suc-
we eed te ee ee
Cuar. LVI. FIRST MEETING WITH ‘ALIYU. 1383 cess of my undertaking. ‘The afternoon wore on without my being called into the presence of the sultan, and I scarcely expected that I should see him that day; but suddenly, after the evening prayer. Alhattu made his appearance with some messengers of the chief, not in order to hasten my present, but first to give me a proof of their own hospitality, and bringing me a very respectable present consisting of an ox, four fat sheep, and two large straw sacks or takrufa containing about four hundred pounds weight of rice, with an intimation at the same time that ‘Aliyu wished to see me, but that I was not now to take my present with me. I therefore prepared my- self immediately; and on going to the sultan’s we passed by the ghaladima, who had been lodged in a courtyard of the village, and who accompanied us. We found ‘Aliyu in the northern part of the village, sitting under a tree in front of his quarters, on a raised platform of clay. He received me with the utmost kindness and good humour, shaking hands with me and begging me to take a seat just in front of him. Having paid my compliments to him on
behalf of the Queen of England, I told him that it
had been my intention to have paid him a visit two years previously, but that the losses which we had met with in the first part of our journey had pre- vented me from carrying out my design. I had scarcely finished my speech, when he himself assured me that at the right time he had received the letter which I had addressed to him through the sultan of
92
K »
134 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Guar. LVI.
A’gades (informing him of the reason why we could not then go directly to pay him our compliments), and that from that moment up to the present time he had followed our proceedings, and especially my own, with the greatest interest, having even heard at the time a report of my journey to A’damawa.
I then informed him that in coming to pay him my compliments I had principally two objects in view, — one of which was that he might give me a letter of franchise guaranteeing to all British merchants entire security for themselves and their property in visiting his dominions for trading purposes ; and the second, that he might allow me to proceed to Tim- buktu, and facilitate my journey to that place (which was greatly obstructed at the present moment by the rebellion of the province of Kebbi) by his own para- mount authority. Without reserve he acceded to both my requests in the most cheerful and assuring manner, saying that it would be his greatest pleasure to assist me in my enterprise to the utmost of his power, as it had only humane objects in view, and could not but tend to draw nations together that were widely separated from each other. At the same time he expressed, in a very feeling way, his regret with regard to “Abd Allah (Capt. Clapperton), whose name I had incidentally mentioned, intimating that the then state of war, or “ gaba,” between Bello and the sheikh el Kanemi, the ruler of Bérnu, had disturbed their amicable relations with that eminent officer, whom in such a conjuncture they had not
Cuar. LVI. KIND RECEPTION. 135
felt justified in allowing to proceed on his errand to their enemy. In order to give him an example how, in the case of foreign visitors or messengers, such cir- cumstances ought not to be taken into account, | took this opportunity to show him that the ruler of Bérnu, although in open hostility with the most powerful of his (‘Aliyu’s) governors, nevertheless had allowed me, at the present conjuncture, to proceed on my journey to them without the slightest obstacle. He then concluded our conversation by observing that it had been his express wish to see me the very day of my arrival, in order to assure me that I was heartily welcome, and to set my mind at rest as to the fate of Clapperton, which he was well aware could not fail to inspire Kuropeans with some diffidence in the proceedings of the rulers of Sdékoto.
With a mind greatly relieved I returned to my tent from this audience. The dusk of the evening, darkened by thick thunder-clouds, with the thunder rolling uninterruptedly, and lighted up only by the numerous fires which were burning round about in the fields where the troops had encamped under the trees, gave to the place a peculiar and solemn interest, making me fully aware of the momentous nature of my situation. The thunder continued rolling all night long, plainly announcing the approach of the rainy season, though there was no rain at the time. Mean- while | was pondering over the present which I was to give to this mighty potentate, who had treated me with so much kindness and regard on the first inter-
K 4
136 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVI.
view, and on whose friendship and protection depended in a great measure the result of my proceedings; and thinking that what I had selected might not prove sufficient to answer fully his expectation, in the morn- ing, when I arose, I still added a few things more, so that my present consisted of the following ar- ticles: —a puir of pistols *, richly ornamented with silver, in velvet holsters; a rich bernts (Arab cloak with hood) of red satin, lined with yellow satin; a bernus of yellow cloth; a bernus of brown cloth; a white helali bernus of the finest quality; a red cloth kaftan embroidered with gold; a pair of red cloth trowsers; a Stambuli carpet; three loaves of sugar ; three turbans and a red cap; two pairs of razors; half a dozen large looking-glasses; cloves, and benzoin. Having tied up these presents in five smart hand- kerchiefs, and taking another bernus of red cloth with me for the ghaladima, I proceeded first to the latter, who received his present with acknowledgments, and surveyed those destined for his master with extreme delight and satisfaction. We then went together to ‘Aliyu, and found him in a room built of reeds, sitting on a divan made of the light wood of the tukkuruwa;
* IT may as well add, that the richly-mounted pistols which chiefly aided me in obtaining the friendship of this powerful chief, as well as another pair which I afterwards gave to Khalilu the ruler of Gando, and also several other things, were paid for with my own money, which was forwarded to Tripoli by my family at the suggestion of the Chevalier Bunsen, as well as two har- monica, one of which I gave to ‘Aliyu, and the other to the sheikh el Bakay.
Cuar. LVI. PRESENTS, HOW RECEIVED. 137
and it was then for the first time that I obtained a distinct view of this chief, for on my interview the preceding night it had been so dark that I was not enabled to distinguish his features accurately. I found him a stout middle-sized man, with a round fat face exhibiting, evidently, rather the features of his mother, a Hausa slave, than those of his father Mo- hammed Bello a free and noble Pullo, but full of cheerfulness and good humour. His dress also was extremely simple, and at the same time likewise bore evidence of the pure Pullo character having been abandoned; for while it consisted of scarcely any- thing else but a tobe of greyish colour, his face was uncovered, while his father Bello, even in his private dwelling, at least before a stranger, never failed to cover his mouth.:
He received me this time with the same re- markable kindness which he had exhibited the pre- ceding evening, and repeated his full consent to both my requests, which I then stated more explicitly, requesting at the same time that the letter of fran- chise might be written at once, before his setting out on his expedition. This he agreed to, but he posi- tively refused to allow me to proceed on my journey before his return from the expedition, which he said would not be long; and, acquainted as I was with the etiquette of these African courts, I could scarcely expect anything else from the beginning. He then surveyed the presents, and expressed his satisfaction repeatedly ; but when he beheld the pistols, which
138 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Crap. LVI.
I had purposely kept till the last, he gave vent to his feelings in the most undisguised manner, and, pressing my hands repeatedly, he said, ‘‘ nagéde, na- gdde, barka, “Abd el Kerim, barka” — “‘ I thank you, God bless you, ‘Abd el Kerim, God bless you.” He had evidently never before seen anything like these richly-mounted pistols, which had been selected in Tripoli by the connoisseur eyes of Mr. Warrington, and surveyed the present on all sides. It was to these very pistols that I was in a great measure indebted for the friendly disposition of this prince, while the unscrupulous governor of Katsena, who had heard some report about them, advised me by all means to sell them to himself, as his liege lord would not only not value them at all, but would even be afraid of them.
Soon after I had returned to my tent, the ghala- dima arrived, bringing me from his master 100,000 kurdi, to defray the expenses of my household during his absence; and I had afterwards the more reason to feel grateful for this kind attention, although the sum did not exceed forty Spanish dollars, as I became aware, during my stay in Wurno, how difficult it would have been for me to have changed my dollars into kurdi. I then satisfied my friend Alhattu the younger brother of the ghaladima, whose behaviour certainly was far from disinterested, but who, never- theless, had not proved quite useless to me. |
Although we were here in the camp outside, and the people busy with their approaching depar-
Cuap. LVI. LETTER OF FRANCHISE. 139
ture, yet I received visits from several people, and amongst others, that of a Weled Rashid of the name of Mohammed, who, on my return from Tim- buktu followed me to Kukawa in the company of his countryman the learned A’hmed Wadawi. This man having left his tribe on the south-eastern borders of Bagirmi, had settled in this place many years before; and having accompanied several ex- peditions or forays, he gave me an entertaining de- scription of the courage of the Féllani-n-Sdkoto, although he had some little disposition to slander, and even related to me stories about the frailties of the female portion of the inhabitants of the capital, which I shall not repeat.
Being anxious that the letter of franchise — gunday, should be written before the sultan set out, “P™3r I sent in the morning my broker ‘Ali el A’geren, with a pound of Tower-proof gunpowder, to the prince, in order to remind him of his promise; and he returned after a while, bringing me a letter signed with the sultan’s seal, which on the whole was com- posed in very handsome terms, stating that the prince had granted the request of commercial secu- rity for English merchants and travellers, which I as a messenger of the Queen of England had made to him. But the letter not specifying any conditions, I was obliged to ask for another paper, written in more distinct terms; and although ‘Aliyu’s time was of course very limited, as he was just about to set out with his army, even my last request was complied
140 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuae. LVI.
with, and I declared myself satisfied. I was well aware how extremely difficult it is to make these people understand the forms of the articles in which European governments are wont to conclude com- mercial treaties. In regions like this, however, it seems almost as if too much time ought not to be lost on account of such a matter of form before it is well established whether merchants will really open a traffic with these quarters ; for as soon as, upon the general condition of security, an intercourse is really established, the rulers of those countries themselves become aware that some more definite arrangement is necessary, while, before they have any experience of intercourse with Europeans, the form of the articles in which treaties are generally conceived fills them with the utmost suspicion and fear, and may. be productive of the worst consequences to any one who may have to conclude such a treaty.
The sultan was kind enough, before he left in the afternoon, to send me word that I might come and take leave of him; and I wished him with all my heart success in his expedition, as the success of my own undertaking, namely, my journey towards the west, partly depended upon his vanquishing his enemies. Giving vent to his approval of my wishes by re- peating that important and highly significant word not more peculiar to the Christian than to the Mo- hammedan creed, ‘‘ Amin, amin,” he took leave of me, in order to start on his expedition, accompanied only by a small detachment of cavalry, most of the
Coap. LVI. ARRIVAL AT WURNO. 141
troops having already gone on in advance. I had also forwarded a present to Hammedu, the son of ‘Atiku an elder brother and predecessor of Bello; but he sent it back to me, begging me to keep it until after his return from the expedition. The ghaladima also, who was to accompany the sultan, called, before his departure, in order that I might wind round his head a turban of gaudy colours, such as I then possessed, as an omen of success.
After all the people were gone, I myself could not think of passing another night in this desolate place, which is not only exposed to the attacks of men, but even to those of wild beasts. Even the preceding night the hyenas had attacked several people, and had almost succeeded in carrying off a boy, besides severely lacerating one man, who was obliged to return home without being able to ac- company the army. An hour, therefore, after the sultan had left his encampment, we ourselves were on our road to Wurno, the common residence of ‘Aliyu, where I had been desired to take up my quarters in the house of the ghaladima; but I never made a more disagreeable journey, short as it was, the provisions which the sultan had given me en- cumbering us greatly, so that at length we were obliged to give away the heifer as a present to the inhabitants of the village of Gawasu. It thus hap- pened that we did not reach our quarters till late in the evening; and we had a great deal of trouble in taking possession of them in the dark, having been
142 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LVI. |
detained a long time at the gateway, which itself was wide and spacious, but which was obstructed by a wooden door, while there was no open square at all inside the gate, nor even a straight road leading up from thence into the town, the road immediately dividing and winding close along the wall.
143
CHAP. LVILI. RESIDENCE IN WURNO.
I sHatt preface the particulars of my residence in Wurno with a short account of the growth of the power of the Fulbe or Féllani in this quarter, and of the present condition of the empire of Sdékoto.
There is no doubt that, if any African tribe de- serves the full attention of the learned European, it is that of the Fulbe (szng. Pullo), or Fula, as they are called by the Mandingoes; Fellani (sing. Baféllanchi), by the Hausa people; Fellata, by the Kantri; and Fullan, by the Arabs. In their ap- pearance, their history, and the peculiar character of their language, they present numerous anomalies to the inhabitants: of the adjacent countries. No doubt they are the most intelligent of all the African tribes, although in bodily development they cannot be said to exhibit the most perfect specimens, and probably are surpassed in this respect by the Jolof. But it is their superior intelligence which gives their chief expression to the Fulbe, and pre- vents their features from presenting that regularity which we find in other tribes, while the spare diet of a large portion of that tribe does not impart to their limbs all the development of which they
144 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVII.
are capable, most of them being distinguished by the smallness of their limbs and the slender growth of their bodies. But as to their outward appearance, which presents various contrasts in complexion as well as in bodily development, we must first take into account that the Fulbe, as a conquering tribe, sweeping over a wide expanse of provinces, have absorbed and incorporated with themselves different and quite distinct national elements, which have given to their community a rather varying and undecided character.
Moreover, besides such tribes as have heen entirely absorbed, and whose origin has even been referred to the supposed ancestors of the whole nation, there are others which, although their pedigree is not brought into so close a connexion with that of the Fulbe, nevertheless are so intermingled with them, that they have quite forgotten their native idiom, and might be confounded with the former by any traveller who is not distinctly aware of the fact. Prominent among these latter are the Sissilbe, as they call themselves, or Syllebawa, as they are called in Hausa, whom I shall have occasion to men- tion on my visit to Sdkoto, and who are nothing but a portion of the numerous tribe of the Wakoré or Wangarawa, to whom belong also the Susu and the so-called Mandingoes; and while that portion of them who are settled in Hausa have entirely for- gotten their native idiom, and have adopted, besides the Fulfilde language, even the Hausa dialect, their
Crap. LVII. ORIGIN OF THE FU’LBE. 145
brethren in the more western province of Zaberma use their own idiom at the present time almost ex- clusively.
On the other hand, foremost among those tribes who have been entirely absorbed by the community of the Fulbe are the Tordédde or Torunkawa, who, although they are considered as the most noble por- tion of the population in most of the kingdoms founded by the Fulbe, yet evidently owe their origin to a mixture of the Jolof element with the ruling tribe *, and in such a manner that, in point of numbers, the former enjoyed full superiority in the amalgamation ; but it is quite evident that, even if we do not take into account the Tordde, the Jolof have entered into the formation of the remarkable tribe of the Fulbe or Fula, in a very strong proportion, although the languages of these two tribes at present are so distinct, especially as far as regards gram- matical structure; and it is highly interesting that A‘hmed Baba (who, by occasional hints, allows us to form a much better idea of the progress of that tribe, in its spreading over tracts so immense, than we were able to obtain before we became acquainted with his history of Sudan) intimates distinctly that he regards the Jolof as belonging to the great stock
* It is, however, remarkable that, according to Sultan Bello’s account, in a passage not translated by Silame, the original idiom of the Torédde was the Wakoro or Wakoré, which, if it be true, would render the Tordde the near kinsfolk of the Sissilbe.
VOL. IV. L
146 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
of the Fullén or Fulbe*, although at the present time the terms “Jolof” and “ Pullo” seem to be used in opposition, the one meaning a person of black, the other an individual of red complexion.
It is this element of the Tordde in particular which causes such a great variety in the type of the Fulbe community, the Tordde being in general of tall stature and strong frame, large features, and of very black complexion, while the other sections of that tribe are always distinguished by a tinge of red or copper colour.
But besides the Tordde, who, as I have said, in most cases as well in Fita as in Sdkoto, at present form the ruling aristocracy, there are many other nationalities which have been absorbed in this great conquering nation, and which, on the contrary, are rather degraded. The most interesting among these latter, at least in the more eastern tracts occupied by the Fulbe, are certainly the Jawambe, as they are called by the Fulbe, but rather, as they call them- selves, Zoghoran, or as they are named by the Hausa people, Zoromawa. This tribe, which we find at present quite absorbed by the Féllani, and, at least in the provinces of Hausa and Kébbi, reduced to the occupation of mere brokers, we still find, during the
* He says of the Jolof that their character is distinguished greatly from that of the other Fullan or Fualbe:—
id AN be ele Galed nerzbh
See Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Soc. ix. p. 536.
Cuar. LVIIe DIFFERENT NATIONALITIES. 147
period of the A’skia, that is to say, in the six- teenth century of our era, quite distinct from the community of the Fulbe or Feéllani, as a tribe by themselves, settled to the 8.E. of the Great River, where it enters the province of Masina *; and it was this tribe which, having been continually persecuted by the Songhay during the height of their sway, at a later period, when that empire had been laid pros- trate by the musketeers of Morocco, contributed the most to its ruin, and conquered great part of it, particularly the most fertile provinces, such as Bara and Karmina.
Nearly the same character distinguishes the tribe of the Latibe on the Senegal, who, in general, at the present time have been reduced to the rank of carpenters, but, nevertheless, at a former period evidently constituted a distinct tribe.f It is these degraded tribes — viz. besides those above mentioned, the Mabube or Mabe, considered in general as wea- vers; the Gergasdbe, or shoemakers; the Wailube, or tailors; the Wambaibe, or singing men; the Watilube, or beggars, — who impart to the community
* A’hmed Baba in J. L. O. S. pp. 550, 555, and elsewhere.
+ M. Eichwaldt, from the account given of them by various French travellers, makes, as to this tribe, the following inter- esting statement, regarding them as gipsies:— “En effet, les ethnographes considérent habituellement les Laobés comme une branche des Foulahs: mais ce fait n’est nullement démontré, et nous avons nous-mémes connu des voyageurs qui affirmaient que les Laobés possédaient une langue nationale différente du Foulah.” (Journal de la Société Ethnologique, 1841, vol. i. p. 62.)
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148 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI,
of the Fulbe the character of a distinction into castes, especially as all of them, in the imaginary pedigree of the Pullo stock, have been carried back to one common progenitor called $46; but we find the same degraded families among the Jolof.*
The absorbing of these western tribes, especially the Jolof and Wakoré by the Fulfulde nation, furnishes at the same time an unquestionable and unmistakable proof that the march of conquest of the latter pro- ceeded from west to east, and not in an opposite direction, as has been the generally-adopted view of those who have touched upon the subject. No doubt
* ‘The Falbe in general divide all the tribes belonging to their stock into four groups or families; but they by no means agree as to the particulars of the division. I will here give one which is commonly assumed : —
1. The Jel, comprising the following sections : — the Torobe; Ulérbe; Fittobe; Jébtobe; Sidube; U’rube; Taradbe; Jéllube; . Baabe; Simbirankobe, also called Nddjiga, from their dwelling- place; Feroibe ; Nukkobe; Sillube; Sosdbe; Téngabe; Waijdbe. Of these the U’rube are again subdivided into five sections, — the U. Bube, U. Feroibe (distinct from the Feroibe before mentioned ), U. Dude, U. Sikam, U. Waijébe. The Jéllube, again, are sub- divided into three sections,—the J. Yorénga, J. Haire, and J. Masina.
2. The Baa, comprising the sections of the Gnara or Ghara, the Sindega, and the Danéji.
3. The S6, comprising the Jawambe, the Mabube or Mabe, Ger- gasaibe, Wailube, Latibe, Wambaihe, and Wadlube.
4, The Beri, comprising the Siwdlbe, Jaléji, Kombangkobe, and Kingirankobe.
But besides these there are a great many other divisions of this wide-spread tribe, called from localities some of which I shall men- tion as opportunity occurs. See especially Appendix II.
Cuap. LVII. PROGRESS OF TRIBE FROM THE WEST. 149
it is impossible for us with our faint knowledge of the migration of tribes in general, and of African tribes in particular, to explain how this tribe came to settle in the region along the lower course of the Senegal, as their type is distinguished in so very remarkable a manner from the character of the other tribes settled in that neighbourhood, and evidently bears more resemblance to some nations whose dwelling- places are in the far east, such as the Malays, with whom M. EHichwaldt, in his ingenious but hypotheti- cal essay on the Fula* has endeavoured to connect them by way of Meroé. I myself am of opinion that their origin is to be sought for in the direction of the east; but this refers to an age which for us is enveloped in impenetrable darkness, while what I have said about the progress of their conquest from west to east relates to historical times, comprising the period from the fourteenth century downwards.+
* Kichwaldt in Journal de la Société Ethnologique, 1841, vol. i. p- 2, et seg. Among all the arguments brought forward by this gentleman in order to show a relation of the Fulbe with the Malays, there is none of any consequence ; and all his specimens of words brought forward with this object are either taken from bad sources or prove nothing, the only striking similarities in the language of these two nations being the words for fish and spear. I speak here of a special and direct relationship of the Fulbe with the Malays, without taking into consideration the vestiges of the general relationship of the whole human race, which have lately been pursued and demonstrated with such industry by Mr. Logan.
+ There may be some remote affinity between the Fulbe and the South African tribes, but this refers to an age probably not later than the rule of the Pharaohs; and the idea that the Fulbe pro-
L 3
150 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVII.
In this respect the mission of two religious chiefs of this tribe from Melle (where they resided at the time) to Biri the king of Bdérnu, who ruled about the end of the thirteenth and the beginning of the fourteenth century *, is of the highest interest, as it
shows at once that this tribe, even at that early —
period, was distinguished by its religious learning, and gives a proof of the progress of the tribe from west to east. Some other facts which have come to our knowledge with regard to the progress of this tribe eastward will be mentioned in the chronologi- cal tables; here I will only call the reader’s attention to the circumstance, that we find, among the most intimate friends and most stanch supporters of Mohammed el Haj A’skia, a man of the name of ‘Ali Fuldénu, while in general it was the policy of the NSonghay dynasty, which was begun by that great ruler of Negroland, to keep in check this tribe, the con- quering tendency of which could not but become apparent to intelligent rulers, notwithstanding the humble character of “ berrordji,” under which they used to immigrate and settle in foreign countries ; and this is the acknowledged reason why the Gabéro, a tribe whom we shall meet in the course of our proceedings on the river below Gagho, have entirely forgotten their Fulfulde idiom, not having been al-
ceeded from South Africa is certainly entirely erroneous. The
identity of a few numerals in the. Fulfalde and Kaflir languages is
curious, but may be explained on historical grounds. * Vol. I. p. 6388, under Biri (Ibrahim).
ee Se
SS eS a ee
Cuar. LVII. FU’LBE IN SIXTEENTH CENTURY. 151
lowed, for a certain period, to use it. Whether it be true, as the Féllani-n-Hdusa assert, that Kanta, the founder of the homonymous dynasty of Kébbi in the very beginning of the sixteenth century was originally a slave of a party of Fulbe settled in the country, a fact which, if confirmed, would prove the early settlement of the tribe in this country, Iam unable to decide, although it is certainly true that in the course of the sixteenth century the Fulbe became strong enough, in the regions on the east side of the I’sa or Kwara, to exercise a great influence in the struggles which ensued between the successors of the first Kanta, while 1t was a chief of their tribe, the ruler of Danka, or Denga, who, according to A‘hmed Baba™*, first began his predatory incursions into the Songhay territory, laying waste the fertile and once extremely populous region along the Ras el ma. It is thus explained how, even in the beginning of the seventeenth century, Fulbe tribes were settled in several places of Bagirmi.f
But just on account of the vastness of the region over which they were scattered, were these people, while pursuing only their own local interest, powerless even in these loosely-connected and almost crumbling kingdoms, where they had found a new home, with the exception of Baghena, where they appear to have formed a nucleus of greater strength, but destitute of any religious impulse.
* A’hmed Baba, J. L. O. S. vol. vi. p. 550. + See Vol. III. p. 433. L4
152 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Caar. LVILI.
A new epoch for this wide-spread tribe did not open till the beginning of this century, when, in the year 1802, Bawa the ruler of Gober summoned to his presence the sheikh ‘Othman, together with the other chiefs of the tribe, and severely reprimanded them on account of the pretensions which they were begin- ning to put forward. It was then that ‘Othman, who, being settled in the village Daghel, performed the office of imam to his countrymen, and had be- gun to give them a new religious impulse, which raised them above their petty interests, filled with indignation at the manner in which he, the great Moslim, was treated by those pagans, was roused to the attempt of making himself and his tribe inde- pendent of the will of the native ruler of the coun- try, and having assembled his countrymen, who now conferred upon him the dignity and authority of a sheikh, raised the standard of revolt; but his proceed- ings, at least as far as regarded Gdber and the capital Alkalawa, were far from proving successful at the beginning, he being vanquished in almost every en- counter: but the fanatical zeal of his followers, whom he continually inspired with fresh energy by his religious songs *, was so great that gradually he overcame all these obstacles, and at length succeeded in laying the foundation of a vast empire, being greatly assisted in his career by his brother ‘Abd Allahi, who, although his senior, had been the first
* JT shall communicate his principal song, in Appendix IIL.
Cuar. LVII.. SHEIKH ‘OTHMA’N.—SULTAN BELLO. 153
to pay him homage, and by his son Mohammed Bello. He took up his residence first at Gando, where he was besieged for a long time, and after- wards at Sifdwa, till, as described by Captain Clap- perton in the excellent and concise account of this struggle * which he has given in the report of his second journey, Othman ended his life in a sort of fanatical ecstasy or madness.
He was followed by Mohammed Bello, who en- deavoured to introduce more order into the empire thus consolidated, and who, on the whole, must rank high among the African princes, being distinguished not less by his great love of learning and _ science than by his warlike spirit, although his military achievements were far from being always successful. But he has had the misfortune, after enjoying a great name in Europe, for a short time, for the kind and generous spirit in which he received Captain Clapperton on his first journey, to incur the se- severest condemnation on account of the manner in which he treated that same enterprising traveller on his second journey. No doubt he was a distinguished ruler; but he must not be judged according to European ideas. He had to struggle hard, not less against the native tribes anxious to assert their inde- pendence, than against his great rival Mohammed el Kanemi the king of Bérnu, who, just at the time of Clapperton’s second stay, pressed him very closely,
* Clapperton’s Second Journey, p. 203, e¢ seg.
154 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
and having successfully overrun the eastern provinces of the Fulfulde or Fellata empire, threatened Kand. Hence this political position, together with the instiga- tions of the Arabs, who feared for their commerce with Negroland if the road from the south should be opened, will account in some measure for his treatment of the English traveller, who perhaps urged his going to the sheikh of Bérnu with too much energy. However, there is no doubt that Bello’s successor and brother, ‘Atiku, who ruled from the year 1832 till 1837, would have weakened the interest of the European public in the example which Bello gave of an energetic and generous ruler in those distant and out-of-the-way regions, if his career had become known to them; for he seems to have fully belied the expectation, of.“a mean prince,”* which he raised when still living in his retirement, as a jealous king’s brother, without power and influence. But his reign was too short for con- solidating sufficiently the loosely-connected empire, although, as long as he lived, full security is said to have reigned. The spirit of independence broke out more strongly under his successor “Aliyu, a son of Bello by a female slave, who, save a well-meaning and cheerful disposition, does not appear to have in- herited many of the noble qualities of his father, and least of all his warlike spirit ; and hence the lament- able condition in which I found this extensive king- dom, while there is scarcely any hope that affairs
* This is the term which Clapperton uses with regard to him.
a es eee PP
Cuarp. LVII PRESENT STATE OF THE EMPIRE. 155
will assume a more consolidated character before another more energetic ruler succeeds to ‘Aliyu. Nevertheless the kingdom or empire, even at the present time, still comprises the same provinces which it did at its most flourishing period, with the excep- tion of Khadéja, the governor of which has made himself independent; but the military strength of these provinces, especially as regards cavalry, as well as the amount of revenue, is greatly impaired, although the latter, collected from all the provinces* together, certainly exceeds one hundred millions of shells, or about 10,000/. sterling, besides an equal value in slaves and native cloth, or articles of foreign produce. The whole strength of the empire, if the distracted state of each province allowed its quota to be withdrawn from thence, would certainly still form an imposing force,—viz., the cavalry of the seat of government, together with the subjected parts of Kébbi and Zanfara, about 5000; the cavalry of Kand, from 5000 to 7000; that of Bauchi, from 1500 to 2000; that of Zégzeg, 83000; A’damawa, 2000; Ka- tsena and Mésaw, each about 1000 ; Katagum, 1200; Marmar and Shéra, each 500; Bobéru, 600; Daura,
* There are inspectors of the provinces residing in Sdékoto, who are responsible for the tribute being duly delivered. ‘“Abda, the son of Gedado, has all the following provinces under his inspection : Kano, Zégzeg, A’damawa, Hamarruwa, Sambo Degimsa, Katégum, Sambo-Lé, governed by Yerima A’hmedu. The ghaladima A’h- medu has only Katsena under his inspection; the mégaji inspects Zanfara; Modéggel, Batchi; Yéron Sambo, Kazaure, the province of Démbo; Dennil Jédi, Daura.
156 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
400; Kazdure, about 200. But we have seen to what a state Zanfara is at present reduced, while the curious manner in which Keébbi is portioned out be- tween the rulers of Sékoto and Gando* cannot fail to cause a great deal of jealousy and controversy between the two courts, at the very centre of power; and as for A’damawa, there are still so many hostile ele- ments in the interior of that half-subdued province, that it is impossible to withdraw from thence a par- ticle of its home force; nay, even the province of Kano is so harassed and distracted by the continual inroads of the governor of Khadéja, that the ruler of that province is scarcely able to send a few hundred horsemen to join the army of his liege lord. We have seen how that same rebel governor of Khadéja repeatedly defeated a numerous host taken from al- most all the provinces of the empire, which had been sent against him; and we shall see what were the in- glorious manceuvrings of ‘Aliyu himself, when he led out, in person, his army against the enemy during my stay in Wurno, of which I shall now proceed to give a short diary. | Monday, taving entered my quarters in the dark, April 4th. Thad no idea of their character; and it was not till the following day that I became aware of it. They consisted, as shown in the accompanying wood-cut, of a spacious courtyard containing nothing but a clay building, which comprised two apart-
* See Appendix IV.
Cuar. LVII. MY QUARTERS IN WURNO. 157
ments, besides a small granary, built of clay, but which was covered all round with straw at the
i
, Entrance hut or parlour, furnished with two seats of clay and two couches of the same material.
. Second hut, without couches.
. Open courtyard, overgrown with grass.
. Hut for my chief servant.
. Clay hall, with a store-room at the back.
. Small granary.
a owe & bo
setting-in of the rainy season, in order to protect it from violent rains. The clay hall had been built by A’bt, the elder brother and the predecessor of the present ghaladima, who greatly surpassed the latter in warlike energy, and who fell in Zanfara during that unfortunate expedition against the Gdberawa, the preparations for which Mr. Overweg witnessed during his stay in Maradi, in the beginning of the summer of 1851. The principal apartment of this clay hall, supported by two massive columns, with
erex AT get hee ae Pirin ve eo Te rns soi S “a Pay heey oye ce oP a
158 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
an average temperature of 94°, was an excellent abode during the hottest part of the day, when it felt very cool and pleasant; but it was rather oppressive in the morning and evening, when the air outside was so much cooler. But in the courtyard there was not the slightest shade, all the trees in this quarter of the town, as well as the huts consisting of reed, having been swept away by a great conflagration the preceding year, a young korna tree, which had been planted at a later period, only just beginning to put forth its foliage. The whole courtyard, also, was in a most filthy state, characteristic of the manner’ of the natives in their present degraded moral and political situation. The first thing, therefore, that I had to do, in order to make myself tolerably comfortable, was to cleanse out this Augean stable, to build a hut for my servants, and a shady retreat for myself. I was well aware that the latter, which it was not easy to make water-tight, would become useless with the first considerable fall of rain; but I entertained the hope that, before that time, I should be oe to set out on my journey.
It was market-day, there being a market held here every Monday and Friday, although the great mar- ket of Sdkoto, which is much more important, even in the present reduced condition of that place, still serves to supply the wants of the inhabitants of all the neighbouring towns and villages at large. Sending, therefore, into the market in order to supply my most urgent wants, I found that corn, as well as
/Cuar. LVIL GENERAL CHARACTER OF WURNO. 159
meat, was even dearer here than in Katsena,— 100 shells scarcely sufficing for the daily maintenance of one horse, and 800 shells buying no more corn than 500 would have done in Katsena, while an ox for slaughtering cost 7000 shells, and I bought two milking-goats, in order to enjoy the luxury of a little milk for my tea, for 2700 shells. The only article which was at all cheap was onions. The market is held on a natural platform spreading out in front of the north-western gate, and surrounded and fortified by a ditch, as, in the present weak state of the Fulbe, the market people are liable to be suddenly attacked by the enemy. This place, as well as the whole of the town, I visited the following day, in company with my friend Alhattu, who, in acknowledgment of the present I had given him in Gawasti, and in ex- pectation of more, took me under his special pro- tection; but in crossing the town, in a westerly direction from our quarters, I was surprised at its neglected and dirty appearance,—a small ravine which intersects the town forming a most disgusting spec- tacle, even worse than the most filthy places of any of the deserted capitals of Italy. Emerging then by the western gate (the kéfa-n-sabuwa), through which leads the road to Sékoto, and which was just being repaired by the people of the ghaladima, in order to make it capable of withstanding the effects of the rainy season, we turned northwards round the town. In front of each gate, on the slope of the rocky eminence on which the town is built, there is a group
160 _ TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII-
of wells, each with a little round clay house, where the proprietor of the well has his usual residence, levying on each jar of water a small contribution of five shells; but there are also a great number of wells facing the north-western gate, close to the market. Leaving a small farm, belonging to my friend “Abd el Kader the sultan of A’gades, on our left, we then turned round to the north, into the road which leads to Salame, and crossed once more the ‘ gulbi-n-rima,” which takes its course towards Sdékoto, exhibiting a very uneven bottom, and forming several pools of stagnant water. Here a broad plain spread out, at present almost bare of vegetation, where my poor camels searched in vain for pasture, putting me to a daily expense of 800 shells in order to recruit their strength by means of “ harawa,” or bean-straw, which furnishes the most nourishing food for the camel in
these regions, though in general it is regarded as
unwholesome for the horse. Having thus fed my camels for some time, I sent them to a greater dis- tance, in the direction of Sdkoto, between Dankému and Gida-n-manomi, where better fodder was to be procured.
After the luxuriant vegetation of other parts of Negroland, I was astonished at the naked appear- ance of the country around the capital, only a few kika or monkey-bread trees being seen; but the country presented a very different aspect on my re- turn journey the next year, at the end of the rainy season. Gdber is distinguished for its general dry-
a
Cuap. LYVII. PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION. 161
ness, and for this very reason is esteemed exceed- ingly well adapted for cattle-breeding. The frontiers of the three different provinces or territories (viz. Kebbi, Gober, and A’dar) join in this corner; and this is the reason that, while Sdkoto is regarded as lying within the borders of the province of Kebbi, Wurno is considered as belonging to the conquered territory of the province of Gdber; while just beyond the gulbi-n-rima, in a northerly direction, the pro- vince of A’dar or Tadlar commences.
But, to return to my first promenade round Wurno, having surveyed the broad dry valley of the gulbi, we turned round the precipitous cliffs over which winding paths lead up to the town, and, having skirted for a while a small branch or koramma which further on turns away, we kept along the eastern side of the town, and re-entered the place from the south- eastern corner, through the gate by which we had made our first entrance. On the following page the reader will find a woodcut which will serve to show its situ- ation much better than any description could do.
Meanwhile the town became more and more de- serted; and on the 7th of April, Alhattu and ‘Omar, or Ghomaro, the two brothers of the ghaladima, with numbers of other people, went to join the expedition: but these fighting men, with a few exceptions, care only about their bodily comfort, and for a few “goriye” or Kédla nuts would be willing to sell the whole of their military accoutrements. It was a great matter with these warriors, that, while the old
VOL. IV. M
162
TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Cuar. LVII.
goriye were nearly finished, the new ones, which were just then brought into the market, were sold for the
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Residence of Aliyu. Market-place. Kofa-n-Sabuwa.
K. Serki-n-A’gades. K. Kasuwa.
K. Maleki.
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high price of 120 shells each.
of Negroland did I observe so little true military spirit as in Wurno; and almost all the leading men seem to be imbued with the melancholy conviction that their rule in these quarters is drawing to an end.
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; H
Cnar. LVII. GROUND-PLAN.—CONDITION. 163
It was again market-day, and I made sun- gray, dry purchases, including a small ox, for “PS almsgiving, as I had made it a rule, in every large town where I stayed any considerable time, to dis- tribute alms amongst the poor. I was astonished at the great quantity of cotton which was brought into the market, and which showed what these fine vales are capable of producing, if the inhabitants, in- stead of being plunged in apathy and exposed to the daily incursions of a relentless enemy, were protected by a strong government. This very day we received the news that the rebellious Kabawa, or natives of Kebbi*, had made a foray against Senina, a town situated on the most frequented road between Sdkoto -and Gando, the two capitals and central seats of the power of the Fulbe in these quarters. The neigh- bouring Féllani had come to the rescue of the town, and had prevented the enemy from taking it; but six horses had been carried away. Only a few days later, the news arrived of another attack having been made by the rebels upon the town of Gandi, the residence of Dyang-ruwa, one day’s distance to the south from Birni-n-Kebbi, although this time they were less fortunate, and were said to have
* The national name Kaébawa is taken from the ancient form of the name, Kabi, which was formerly in use (exactly like the form Mali, Malawa), but has given place to the form Kebbi, which is thus distinctly written, even in Arabic, by authors of the seven- teenth century.
M 2
164 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
been driven back with the loss of twenty-two horses. Meanwhile the sultan himself, with his sluggish host of cavalry, instead of attacking the Gdberawa, who already, before we left Katsena, had taken the field with a numerous army, was said to be sta- tioned in Katuru. He had been joined by the governor of Zariya in person, while Kano had sent only the ghaladima with the whole of their cavalry. From Katuru, “Aliyu with his army, after some useless delay, betook himself to Kauri-n-Namoda, whence we received news on the 11th, the Géberawa having meanwhile taken up a strong position in front of him, without being able to induce him to offer them battle. The dread of these effeminate conquerors for the warlike chief of the Gdberawa, the son of Ya- kuba, is almost incredible. He has ruled since 1836, and, the preceding year, had roused the whole of the indigenous population of the various provinces to a struggle for their national and religious inde- pendence against the ruling tribe. This dread of him has been carried so far, that they have quite obli- terated his real name, calling him only Mayaki, or “the warrior.” While ‘Aliyu was stationed at Kauri- n-Namdda, and part of his army was in Dankarba, the A’zena made an attack upon Raya, a town situ- ated at a day’s distance from the former place. But the whole condition of the country, to the west as well as to the east, was most deplorable ; and three native merchants, of the Zoromawa or Zoghoran, when speaking about my projected journey towards
Char. LVII. GLOOMY PROSPECTS. 165
the Niger, and beyond that river westward, told me in the most positive manner, “ babo hana,” “ there is no road;” that is to say, “the country is closed to you, and you cannot proceed in that direction.” And taking into consideration the low ebb of courage and enterprise among the natives—the weakness and unwarlike spirit of “Aliyu—the complete nullity of Khalilu—the vigour of the young and warlike Mademé the rebel chief of Kebbi, who, starting from his residence Argungo, distant only a couple of hours’ march from that of Khalilu, was carrying the flame of destruction in every direction-—the re- volted province of Zabérma, with an equally young and energetic ruler, Datid the son of Hammam Jym- ma—the province of Déndina in open revolt and cutting off all access to the river, —all these circum- stances rendered the prospect of my accomplishing this journey very doubtful. Moreover, besides the weakness of the two rulers of the Fulbe dominions, there is evidently a feeling of jealousy between the courts of Sékoto and Gando; and here we find the spectacle of two weak powers weakening each other still more, instead of uniting most cordially in an energetic opposition against the common foe. For instance, the young chief of Kebbi, who at present caused them so much trouble, had been previously a prisoner in Wurno; but when Khalilu wanted to take his life, “Aliyu procured his liberty, and gave him a splendid charger to boot.
M 3
166 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
But a European will achieve what the natives of the country themselves deem impossible; and my friends the Zoromawa merchants, who wanted to induce me to relinquish my project, had perhaps their own private interests in view. They probably enter- tained the hope that, in case of my being prevented from penetrating westward, [ should be obliged to sell my stock here, which I now kept back as a pro- vision for the road before me. By way of consoling them, I gave them a parcel of beads of the kind called dankasawa, which I found useless for the countries through which I had to pass, in exchange for some shells lL was in want of for the daily expenses of my household.
Meanwhile I collected a good deal of information concerning the topography of the neighbouring pro- vinces, and the remarkable manner in which the pro- vince of Kebbi has been portioned out between the two empires of Gando and Sdkoto. I also compiled an outline of the history of this country, which began greatly to attract my attention. Meanwhile, in order to preserve my health, I took a ride almost every day, out of the town, and was in particular much interested in an excursion which I made in the afternoon of the 16th, in a northerly direction, on the road to Sala4me, which is at the same time the great highroad to A’dar and A’gades. A cheer- ful aspect was especially exhibited by the village of Fachi, stretching out to a considerable length from
east to west, and skirted by a small watercourse, ~
Fe ee
Cuap. LVI. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 167
which inundates and fertilizes the neighbouring grounds during the rainy season, so that the peo- ple are able to raise, besides two species of yams, namely gwaza and rdgo, a good deal of tobacco and cotton. Beyond, a wide open plain spreads out, covered with the plant ‘ kakma,” which looks very much like aghtl (Hedysarum Alhaggi). But the whole of this ground so near the capital is now very unsafe under the weak rule of ‘Aliyu, and exposed to continual inroads of the energetic Géberawa; and a few days later the village of Salame itself was ran- sacked by the enemy, and a good many slaves carried off. The more desperate the condition of the country was, the more remarkable appeared to me the out- ward show of dominion which was maintained; in proof of this I may state that the very day we received the news of a new outbreak of the general mutiny of the native tribes, the tribute from the provinces of Kané and Zariya entered the town.
A highly interesting and delightful inter- weancsday, ruption to my protracted and involuntary 4?" 20%. stayin Wurno was caused by an excursion which Imade to Sékoto. The first part of this road I had already become acquainted with on a former ride, which had extended as far as Dankému; but at that period, being more intent upon inhaling the fresh air than upon
laying down the country, I had not paid much atten-
tion to the extensive cultivation of rice which is going
on in this valley, while on this occasion the features
of the country, and in particular this branch of cul- M 4
168 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVITI.
tivation, formed a special object of attraction to me. For it was the first time during my travels in Negro- land that I had seen rice cultivated on a large scale ; and as we were winding along the foot of the rocky hills to the south-east, crossing the various small channels which descend from them and afterwards join the greater rivulet which we saw at some distance on our right, the country became dotted with small villages, or “rugga,” as they are called by the Fulbe, some of them of historical renown, such as Daghel or Daggel, the village where ‘Othman the Reformer had his usual residence before he rose to that great politi- cal importance which he attained in after times. But such is the degraded state of these conquerors at the present time, that even this village, which, if they had the slightest ambition or feeling of national honour, ought to be a memorable and venerable place to them for all ages, has been ransacked by the Gdberawa, and lies almost deserted.
It is at Daghel that the valley attains its greatest breadth; but as we advanced, in a south-westerly direction, it was narrower, till, at the village called Gida-n-manomi, it became greatly contracted, shortly after which, the river turning away to a greater dis- tance, the path ascended the rocks. It is the same path along which Clapperton, on his second journey, went so repeatedly from Sdkoto to Magariya, but which, from the scanty information obtained from his papers in this respect, has been laid down so very erroneously. In general, I cannot praise too
Cuar. LVIT. CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S ROUTE. 169
highly the zeal and accuracy (allowance being made for his positions of longitude) with which this emi- nent and successful traveller, who crossed the whole breadth of the African continent between the Medi- terranean and the Bight of Benin, has laid down his various journeys. On the other hand, the com- panion of his former travels, Major Denham, has shown great inaccuracy, both with respect to dis- tances as well as to the direction of his various routes.
The ground was enlivened by the cultivation of ‘“‘rég0,” which, when attaining a certain growth, contributes greatly to the beauty of the scenery; but kuka or baobab trees were almost the only larger vegetable production which adorned the country during the first part of our ride, sometimes shooting out from between the very blocks of sandstone with which the hills were strewn. Further on, another tree, called ‘kadasi,” and a few small tamarind trees also appeared, and the tops of the ant-hills, which at times form regular rows, were often adorned with the fine fresh-leaved bush ‘“sérkeki.” ‘The ground, which consists of black argillaceous soil, “laka” or “ firki,” as it is called in Bornu, not yet fertilized by the rainy season, was cracked and torn asunder, while the white “kali balbalé” (Buphaga africana), which enliven every district of Negroland where cattle are common, were stalking about in the fields, looking out for food. But cattle at the present time were sought for in vain. Here they would have found no pasture,
170 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
and in consequence were driven to a great distance, as is the general custom with the Fulbe or Féllani of these quarters, even those settled in the province of Katsena having at times their herds of cattle pasturing in the far-distant grassy and healthy grounds of Zabérma.
While the cultivation of rice prevails in the north- easternmost part of the valley, more cotton and sor- ghum were observed towards the village of Gida-n- manomi, although the state of the fields did not argue a great deal of industry on the part of the inhabitants, being rather obstructed by weeds and thorny bushes. But far more native corn is grown on the other side of Wurno, so that it even forms a mercantile speculation, on a small scale, to carry corn from Wurno to Sdkoto; nay, even sheep are transported in this way for a very small profit, being bought in Wurno for 1200 or, when on credit, for 1400 shells, and sold in Sdkoto for 1500.
Having ascended the rising ground close beyond a source of limpid water producing a narrow spot of fresh verdure, the rocky surface was soon succeeded by a fertile plain of sand covering the rock to the depth of a foot, while the fields of the various farmers were separated from each other by slabs of sandstone. The labours of the fields, however, had not yet begun; and trees also here were scanty, a small mimosa indicating the halfway or ‘““mararraba” between the two towns, while another village was distinguished by a single deléb palm.
Cuar. LVII. BAMU/RNA. 171
Having reached the highest point of the path, from whence we obtained the first sight of Sdkoto, we descended into a deeper hollow or irregular valley, adorned by fine green fields of “‘régo,” and bordered by living hedges of the Nux purgans, the nut being still green, but having just attained its full size.
This was the valley of Bamurna, which is dis- tinguished on account of its fertility and abundance of water, but for this same reason is rather un- healthy, and, during and shortly after the rainy season, becomes quite impassable for travellers. Close to the source, which rushes forth from the western cliffs, a small market is held, where travellers generally make a short halt; but this spot being very narrow and affording but little comfort for a midday halt, we went on a little further, and halted for an hour or two at the end of the vale, under two fine duirremi trees a little to the right of the path. Here, where the principal vale is joined by a side branch, and where the greatest amount of moisture is collected, the vegeta- tion is especially rich, and a beautiful limun tree full of fruit adorned the place, besides young offshoots of the plantain. But more interesting still was a small plantation of sugar situated at the foot of the hill, although the stalks were at present only about sixteen or eighteen inches high; and I was nota little surprised when I learned that this piece of ground belonged to a man who not only cultivated, but even prepared sugar: but I did not then make his ac- quaintance, as he was absent at the time. Meanwhile
LZ TRAVELS IN AFRICA. -Caap. LVII.
enjoying our cool shade, we partook of a very mo- derate but wholesome African luncheon, consisting of a few onions boiled in water, seasoned with some tamarind fruit and a little butter, which forms a very refreshing treat during the hot hours of a tropical climate; for the onions hereabout are of excellent quality and extremely cheap, fifteen bella sold for ten kurdi.
Soon after starting in the afternoon, we fell in with along marriage procession, consisting of a bride and her mother, both mounted on horseback, accom- panied by a considerable number of female servants and attendants, carrying the simple household fur- niture on their heads. At the same time that this interesting procession caused a cheerful intermezzo, a greater variety of vegetation was perceptible at a village on our right. Besides kérna, there were a few dum and deléb palms; and the fields were adorned with a great number of tamarind trees, but of small growth.
Proceeding thus over the rocky ground, we reached the small rivulet of Sdkoto, the “ gulbi-n-Raba” or “Bugea,” or, as it is called in its upper course, where I fell in with it on my return journey, gulbi-n-Bakura. Even at the present season it had a small current of water, but only about ten yards wide and ten inches deep, and just sufficient for us to water our horses. The water is regarded as unwholesome for man; and at this season of the year shallow wells or holes are dug in the gravel at some distance from the
Cuar. LVII. ENTRANCE INTO ‘S0’KOTO. 173
stream, in order to supply the poor people. The wealthier classes are believed to be supplied from other quarters, although such a presumption is very often false, the water from this stream being merely sold to them under a more pompous title.
Ascending then the slope of the eminence on which the town is built, and which rises to about one hundred feet, and leaving a spacious “ marina” or dycing-place on the slope of the hill on our left, we entered the walls of Sdkoto by the kdfa-n-rimi; and although the interior did not at present exhibit that crowded appearance which made such a pleasing impression upon Clapperton, the part nearest the wall being rather thinly inhabited, and the people being evidently reduced to a state of great poverty and misery, it made a cheerful impression on me, on account of the number of dum palms and kérna trees by which it is adorned. 3
Orders having been sent beforehand, I was quar- tered without delay in the house of the ghaladima— a clay dwelling in tolerable repair, but full of white ants, so that [ was glad to find there a “ gadé” or couch of reeds, where I was able to rest myself and put away my small effects, without being continually exposed to the insidious attacks of these voracious insects. Having thus made myself comfortable, my first visit the following morning was to Mddibo ‘Al, who had already testified his friendship for me by sending me a fat sheep to Wurno. Differing entirely from the present generation of beggars, whose ignoble.
174 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI.
habits make a long stay in Wurno or Sdkoto into- lerable, he is a cheerful old man of noble demeanour, and with pure Fulbe features, with which his middle height and rather spare growth exactly corresponded. He was simply but neatly dressed in a white shirt and a shawl of the same colour. Mddibo “Ali is the oldest member of the family of the Reformer still alive, being the son of ‘Ali an elder brother of ‘Othman the Jehadi, and about seventy-five years of age. He was seated in the antechamber of his house, before the door of which his little herd of milch cows were assembled; and he received me with unaffected kindness. I immediately saluted him as an old friend and acquaintance, and we had avery pleasant and cheerful conversation, after which I delivered to him my present, consisting of a helali bernus, a piece of white muslin, a high red cap or “matri,” a small flask of “ottar” of roses, two razors, a pound of cloves, a loaf of sugar, and a looking-glass; and he was particularly delighted with some of these articles, which, on account of the insecurity of the road at the present time, are imported more rarely even from Kand. In former times a great many Arabs used to visit this place, partly for purposes of trade, partly in order to obtain a present from the sultan; but the danger of the communication in the present reduced state of the empire is so great, that not a single Arab merchant visits the town. This circumstance cannot fail to render the conquering tribe more favourably disposed towards opening an intercourse with the
Cuar. LVII. DESOLATE APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN. 175
English, or Europeans in general, by way of the Niger. At present almost the whole traffic in foreign merchandise is in the hands of the people of Ghat and A’gades, especially in those of Mohammed Béro, my friend the fugger of A’gades, who, being a native of A’dar, and having a numerous host of full- grown sons, exercises a great influence upon com- mercial and even political affairs in these quarters.
Having thus commenced an acquaintance with the most respectable man in the town, I made a longer promenade through its interior, when I found the chief quarter, which had been the residence of Bello, greatly dilapidated, and the royal mansion itself in a state of the utmost decay. No doubt a considerable proportion of the inhabitants of the town, especially the males, had joined the expedition of “Aliyu to Zanfara: but as the greater part of the population consists of Zoromawa or Zoghoran, or, as they are called further westward, Jawdmbe, a peculiar tribe which I have mentioned before and about which I shall say more in another place, mixed here with the Imdéshagh of A’dar, who do not join the army, the war could not exercise so great an in- fluence upon the desolate appearance of the place. The Zoromawa, in fact, are the artisans of the town, and the small tradesmen and brokers, and exercise a sort of monopoly in the art of working in leather, in which they are very expert, having probably learned it from the Emgedesiye.
In endeavouring to survey the town, I first paid a
176 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVI.
visit to the market, which is situated at its north- eastern corner, on the brink of the rugged slope which descends into the valley. It was empty at the present time, —only a few slight sheds being made ready for the following day, when the great market was to be held; and the prospect over the broad flat valley to the north and north-west, in the direction of Dunday, was uninterrupted, presenting at this season a scorched-up savanna, while the deep rill of the river was scarcely to be distinguished. A number of blind women, lean- ing on their staves or led by young children, were seen carrying pitchers of water up the cliff, affording a sad proof of the unhealthiness of the situation of the town, where blindness is very frequent. Turning then westwards from the market, I reached the house of the late king “‘Atiku, where at present his son Hamedu resides, who formerly had his residence at Bakura, till that place was taken by the Goberawa. The house is in good repair, and the quarter adjacent is tolerably well inhabited—at least, better than any other part of the town; for Hamedu is the chief of the Sissilbe or Sylleb4wa*, who form the principal stock of the population of the neighbouring hamlets or rugga of Sékoto. The different nationality of these
* I shall say more in another place about this interesting tribe, who, originally belonging to the Negro stock of the Wakoré, have been swallowed up in the remarkable migration and conquest of the Fulbe eastward; here I will only mention the various sections into which they are divided, at least as far as these eastern quarters are concerned. These are the Lobarbe, Lémbe, Seningbe, Yirdbe, Warbe, Jakkébe, Walarbe, Jagalbe, and Jatibe.
Cuar. LVII. THE SYLLEBA’WA. eer
Syllebdwa, causing a diversity of interests and pur- suits, is stated to be one of the reasons why ‘Aliyu, who has been made sultan chiefly through the in- fluence of the Térobe, does not like to reside at Sékoto as well as at Wurnd, although his residence at the latter place is greatly needed in the present reduced state of his power, in consequence of the continual danger from the Gdberawa, who, if the sultan should stay in Sdkoto, would endanger the safety of all the people living in the open villages and hamlets between the former and the present resi- dence; and it was on this account that Bello built the town of Magariya (the site of which, a little to the north-east of the latter, I have indicated on a former occasion ), which, however, was soon abandoned for Wurnd.
The chief, Hamedu, was at present absent ; but I have mentioned already that I sent him a present im- mediately on my arrival in Gawasu, on account of his influential position, although I thought it politic after- wards to keep out of his way as much as possible, in order not to excite any jealousy, Hamedu being one of the nearest, if not the very nearest, to the succession, but opposed by the greater part of the presente courtiers. Passing, then, along the well- frequented road which leads out of the town, we emerged from the kdfa-n- Atiku, in order to obtain a first glimpse of the country which I was to traverse on my road to Gando.
It was an open level tract, at present without VOL. IV. | N
178 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVIL.
many signs of vegetation; but that part nearest the town was agreeably enlivened by a thriving suburb extending as far as the kdfa-n-Taramnia, and buried in a thicket of shady trees and hedges, thus presenting altogether a more animated spectacle than the interior of the town itself. Keeping along the machicolated wall, here only about twelve feet high and surrounded by a ditch, and following the path between it and the suburb, we entered the town, and turned our steps to the house of the gedado, where Captain Clapperton closed his meritorious career as an African explorer.
The house is still in tolerable repair, ‘Abdu, the son of the gedado, who, although not very energetic, and still less warlike, is a man of cheerful disposition and good principles, having too great a veneration for his father, who did so much towards embellishing and adorning this town, to allow his residence to go to ruin. The old gedado had long outlived his master, Bello; and if I had proceeded to Sdkoto directly from A’gades, I should still have found him alive; for he only died during my presence in Kané, in February 1851. I will here only mention that it was believed for a moment in England that Clapperton died from the effects of poison; but the amount of fatigue, privations, and sickness te which this most eminent of African travellers was exposed on his circuitous journey, by way of Nupe and Kand, from the coast as far as this place, explains fully how he was unable to withstand the effects of the shock which mental disappointment exercised upon him: nay, it is wonderful how he bore up so long, if his
Cuar. LVII. CLAPPERTON’S DEATH. 179
own hints with regard to the state of his health are taken into account.
In the evening, my old friend Modibo ‘Ah, and the mother of A’bu, the elder and more warlike brother of the present ghaladima, who was slain by the Géberawa two years before my visit to this place, treated me hospitably, and I sent a present to Saidu, a younger son of Bello, who resides in Sdékoto, and is considered as a sort of mayor. .
It was the great market-day, which was of some importance to me, as I had to buy a good many things, so that I was obliged to send there a sum of 70,000 shells; but the market did not become well-frequented or well-stocked till between two and three o’clock in the afternoon, when I myself proceeded thither. I had taken a ride in the morning through the south-eastern quarter of the town, pro- ceeding through the kéfa-n-'Atiku, thence along the wall, towards the west, and re-entered the town by the kéfa-n-Ali Jédu, where the whole quarter is very desolate, even the wall being in a state of decay, and the fine mosque, built by the gedado during Clapper- ton’s stay here, fallen entirely to ruins. But, even in the present reduced condition of the place, the market still presented a very interesting sight, the numerous groups of people, buyers as well as sellers, and the animals of various descriptions, being picturesquely scattered over the rocky slope, as I have endeavoured to represent in the plate opposite. The market was tolerably well attended, and well
N 2
Friday, April 22nd.
180 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVII.
supplied, there being about thirty horses, three hundred head of cattle for slaughtering, fifty takerkere, or oxen of burden, and a great quantity of leather articles (this being the most celebrated branch of manufacture in Sokoto), especially leather bags, cushions, and similar articles, the leather dressed and prepared here being very soft and beautiful. There were more than a hundred bridles for sale, the work- manship of which is very famous throughout all this part of Negroland ; but especially a large quantity of iron was exposed for sale, the iron of Sdékoto being of excellent quality and much sought for, while that of Kand is of bad quality. A good many slaves were exhibited, and fetched a higher price than might be supposed,—a lad of very indifferent appear- ance being sold for 33,000 shells; I myself bought a pony for 30,000. It being just about the period when the salt-caravan visits these parts, dates also, which usually form a small addition to the principal merchandise of those traders of the desert, were to be had; and I filled a leather bag, for some 2000 shells, in order to give a little more variety to my food on the long road which lay before me.
I took another interesting ride through the kéfa-n-Dunday, not following the direct road to that village, which lies close to the junction of the gulbi-n-Rima with the gulbi-n-Raba, but not far from the decayed northern wall, and thus crossed a considerable channel, a branch of the river, full of water, being even at the present time about fifteen
April 23rd.
Cuar. LVIIL. THE VALLEY OF SO’/KOTO. 181
yards wide, and a foot and a half in depth, and then, keeping away from the village, reached the other branch, which was narrower but more richly bor- dered by bushes, and, following it up in an easterly direction, reached the point of junction, or “megan- gamu.”
The whole valley here formed one uninterrupted rice-field; and how different was the aspect of the country from what it exhibited on my home journey, at the end of the rainy season of the following year! A number of small boats were lying here, at the side of the narrow channel, but all of them separated into two halves, which had to be sewn together when their services were required for the rainy season. From this point I crossed over to the road leading to the village of Koré, where, two days later, a party of Kél-geres made a foray; and return- ing along this road towards the town, at a distance of about five hundred yards from the wall, we crossed another small arm of the river, which during the rainy season forms an extensive swamp. Leaving then the kéfa-n-Koré on our right, we turned round the north-eastern corner of the wall, and ascended towards the kédfa-n-Marké, which has received this name from a tree of the marke kind, although at present none are to be seen here. On the next page is a sketch of a ground-plan of the town.
Altogether my visit to Sékoto formed a most in- teresting intermezzo to my involuntary stay in the capital, although it could not fail to give me a fur-
No
182 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVII.
=_
ther insight into the frail character of the dominion of the Fulbe over these regions; and during my stay
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SOKOTO. Market-place. . House of Gedado, at present ‘Abdu. House of Bello, now of ‘Alfyu, very much in decay. House of ‘Atiku, at present Hémedu, and close to it the mosque built by Gedado, now in ruins.
oor
‘5. Kofa-n-Koré. 10. K6fa-n-Tardmnia. 6. Kofa-n-Dunday. 11. K6ofa-n-Rimi.
7. Ké6fa-n~Kadé. 12. Kofa-n-Marké.
8. Kofa-n-‘Ali Jédu. 13. Suburb.
9. Kofa-n-‘Atiku,
here I certainly had no cause to complain of inhospi- table treatment, as my friend Médibo ‘Ali sent me, every day, a large basin of fura, the favourite drink of ghussub water, two dishes of hasty pudding, and two bowls of milk. Having given, by this ex- cursion to the former capital, fresh energy to my spirits, | returned to my quarters in Wurno on the 24th, accomplishing the distance in little more than four hours; and it was time that I returned, for in the evening of that same day the joyful news arrived that the sultan had reached Gandi. However,
Cuar. LVI. RETURN OF THE -SULTAN. 183
he did not enter Wurné till the 23rd, having for- warded a message to me the preceding evening from Yan-serki, in the territory of Raba, requesting me to meet him the following morning outside the town. In consequence of this I mounted on horseback with the first dawn of day, but.found the sultan already close to the gate, descending the rocky path which leads from the above-mentioned place. He then made a halt, with his whole suite, and saluted me in the kindest manner, calling me by my name, ‘Abd el Kerim. The sultan was followed by the ghaladima; and I here first made the acquaintance of the learned ‘Abd el Kader dan Taffa (Mustapha), whom I was most anxious to see, in order to obtain from him some historical information. As soon as the people had dispersed quietly, returning to their various quarters, I sent him a present, when he paid me a visit in the evening, and furnished me immediately with some positive data with regard to the history of the dy- nasty of the Asdki, or A’skia, the rulers of Songhay, which he had perfectly in his head, and which were of the greatest importance in giving me an insight into the historical relation of the western countries of these regions with that of Central Negroland.
In the forenoon I went to ‘Aliyu, in order to pay my complimenis to him upon his safe return from this expedition, which, although not very glorious, had yet proved not quite unprofitable, he having reduced to subjection the poor little hamlets of the rocky district of Kotdérkoshé, the inhabitants
N 4
April 29th.
184 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVII.
of which had previously placed themselves under the protection of the enemy; but even this insignificant victory he had only achieved through the bravery of the horsemen from Katsena, while his own men had, as usual, exhibited the greatest cowardice. As long as the Fulbe do not defeat the host of the Géberdwa, who take the field every year and offer them battle, the state of this empire will become daily worse and worse, while at present each of the two parties, the indigenous inhabitants as well as the conquerors, do nothing but accelerate the ruin of the country, with- out dealing a decided blow.
Although I had made the chief a very respectable present on my first arrival, I thought it well to give greater impulse to his friendly disposition towards me, by adding something also this time, presenting him with a cloth waistcoat and several smaller arti- cles, besides a musical box, with the performance of which he was extremely pleased; but unfortunately, when, anxious to impart his delight to his greatest friend and principal minister, ‘Abdi the son of Ge- dado, he had called the latter to witness this wonder, the mysterious box, affected by the change of climate and the jolting of the long journey, was silent for a moment, and would not play. I may observe here, that I think it better for travellers not to make such presents as musical boxes, which so easily get out of order. The sultan fully granted my request for a speedy departure, promising also to assist me in my dangerous undertaking with a small “ rékkia” or
ee vi.
Cuar. LVI. MUSICAL PRESENTS. 185
escort; and it was very essential to me to hasten my proceedings, as the following day brought the first evident proof of the approach of the rainy season.
Having made a present to the ghaladima also, I thought it better, in order to make up for the deficiency of the musical box, to satisfy the musical taste of the sultan by making him a present of one of the har- monica which the Chevalier Bunsen, in considera- tion of the great effect which the Rev. Mr. Knoblecher had produced, with the aid of such an instrument, upon the inhabitants of the shores of the Nile, had procured for me; but I succeeded afterwards in re- pairing, in some measure, the musical box, which caused the good-natured chief inexpressible delight, so that he lost no time in writing for me a commenda- tory letter to his nephew Khalilu the chief of Gando. But I was extremely anxious to get away from this place, as I was sorely pestered by begging parties, the inhabitants of Wurnd and Sokoto being the most troublesome beggars in the world, and besides them there being also many strangers in the town, espe- cially the Kélgeres, who had brought the salt.
I was sitting, one day, in the entrance-hall of my house, in the company of some of these sons of the desert, when Gdme, the brother of the sultan ‘Abd el Kader, from A’gades, who had lately been dethroned in order to make way for a new chief, A’hmed e’ Rufay, called upon me, and, with a very important and mysterious air, requested me to give him a private audience. After | had dismissed my other visitors,
186 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVII.
he began by reminding me of the kind manner in which his brother had received me, and finished by urgently begging me to use my influence in order to restore “Abd el Kader to his former dignity. I had ereat difficulty in convincing him that I had very little influence with the emir el Mumenin, and that I was afraid my intercession would have little or no effect, although, as well by way of private acknowledgment for the kindness of my host in that place, where I began to acquire more confidence in the success of my proceedings, as from a persuasion of the influence which a great service rendered by me to this man would have upon my future prospects, I should have desired nothing better than to be the means of re- instating him in his former position.
Among the people who sought my acquaintance there was also Khalilu dan Hassan, one of the pre- sumptive heirs to the royal power— Hassan being a younger brother of Bello—a young man of gentle- manly manners, but not of a very generous disposi- tion, as he plainly evinced on my home journey the following year, when he wanted to oblige me to send him, after my safe return home, a pair of pistols in exchange for a black shirt scarcely worth 5000 shells, or two dollars.
All this time, I had employed my leisure hours in reading a manuscript work which had given me the first insight into the history of the western portion of these Féllani dominions. It had been composed by “Abd Alldhi, the brother of ‘Othman the Reformer, to
Cuar. LVII. WORKS OF ‘ABD ALLA’HI AND BELLO. 187
whom the western portion of the conquered region was awarded as his share. But although this work, the title of which is “ Tezén el aurekat,” contained, besides a great deal of theological matter, some important his- torical data, it did not satisfy my curiosity ; and I had been endeavouring in vain to obtain the work of Bello, entitled ‘“‘ Infak el misuri fi fat-ha el Tekruri,” which had been earnestly recommended to me by my friend the faki “Abd el Kader in Katsena; but I did not succeed in getting it into my hands till a few days before I left this place, when I found that the greater part of its contents, which had any geographical or historical importance, were identical with those docu- ments brought back by Captain Clapperton, on his first journey, and which have been partly translated by Mr. Salame, in the appendix to the account of those travels.
Meanwhile the country became more unsafe ; and on the 5th of May the cattle of the village of Salame were driven off by the people of Chéberi, to the great loss of my friend ‘Abd el Kader dan Taffa, who had considerable property there; but strongly reminded of the effects of the rainy season, by a heavy shower which fell on the 6th, driving me out of my cool shed, I urged my departure, and in the afternoon of the 8th took leave of ‘Aliyu with a cheerful spirit, it being evident to me, not only that he entertained not the slightest mistrust of my future proceedings, but on the contrary even took considerable interest in me, as he found that it was my earnest desire to become well
188 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVIL.
acquainted with the country and the people, and that I was anxious to establish friendly relations with the most distinguished and learned among them. But he gave me repeatedly to understand that he wished me not to go to Hamdallahi, to present my compliments to their countrymen and coreligionists there and their chief or his successor, we having just received a few days previously the news of the death of Shékho A’hmedu, while he had not the slightest objection to my going to Timbuktu, and paying a visit to the — sheikh el Bakay, who had spent some time in Sdkoto and was on friendly terms with the family of Fédiye.
189
CEA So vil.
STATE OF INSECURITY ALONG THE MOST FREQUENTED HIGHROAD., =—= GANDO.
At length I was able to pursue my journey, aaieg which now, as soon as I had passed Sdkoto, ™*y 8 was to lead me into almost unknown regions, never trodden by European foot.
I was escorted out of the town, in grand style, by the ghaladima with six horsemen, and then pursued my former track to Sdékoto, the character of which was but little changed, on account of the vegetation having only just begun to be vivified and restored by the first showers of the rainy season. The little stream which skirts the foot of the hill on which the town of Sdkoto is situated, and where we had watered our horses on our former excursion, now began gradually to increase, although as yet it exhibited but few signs of that considerable volume which I found here on my home journey the next year.
I was lodged in my old quarters, in the house of the ghaladima, and was treated by my old friends Médibo ‘Ali and Said with great hospitality. Al- though most anxious, on account of the season, to continue my journey with the shortest possible delay,
190 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap. LVIII.
I remained here the four following days, in order to procure what was still wanted in my outfit for the long journey before me, but principally from regard to the interests of my companion “Ali el A’geren, who had here to arrange some business ; hence we did not set out until the 14th of May.
There had been so heavy a shower the preceding afternoon, that a large stream broke through the roof of my dwelling and placed my whole room several inches under water. I passed, therefore, a most un- comfortable night, and when I got up in the morning I had avery bad headache. [very thing, also, was extremely wet, so that it took us a long time to get ready our camels, and it was eight o’clock when we left the kéfa-n-Taramnia, which, though the widest of the gates of the town, did not allow my two largest boxes to pass without damage.
A grandson of Méddibo ‘Ali, together with Shékho the chief of the Zoromawa, escorted me outside the town. The first was certainly sincere: but as for the second, I could not expect that he was in earnest in wishing me success in my undertaking ; for the Zoro- mawa, who are the chief traders of the country, viewed my enterprise with a great deal of mistrust, as they were told that I wanted to open an inter- course along the river.
Thus we entered the large open plain, which is only bounded, at the distance of about three miles to the north, by a low chain of hills, and scarcely dotted with a single tree. But the monotonous country at
Cuap. LVIIl FIELDS OF YAMS.—BODI/NGA. 191
present was not quite wanting in signs of life, the plentiful fall of rain having inspired the inhabitants of the several villages which were scattered about with sufficient confidence to trust their seed to the ground. Having then passed a larger village, called Kaffarawa, we crossed a considerable depression or hollow, stretching from $.W. to N.E., with plenty of water, and with extensive grounds of yams, a branch of cultivation which, in these swampy valleys of Kebbi, is carried on to some extent; and this depression was soon succeeded by others of a like nature. Numerous herds of cattle were here grazing on the intervening pasture-grounds, which were adorned with sycamores and monkey-bread trees; and this continued till we reached Bodinga, and took up our quarters in a small cluster of huts lying on the outside, close to the wall. This time I did not enter the town, but I did so on my return journey, when [ satisfied myself of the considerable size of the town, and the state of decay and desolation into which it has at present relapsed. While we were loading our camels, the gunaay,
governor of the town, who is a son of May 15th. Médibo “Ali, of the name of Mohdmmedu, came out to pay me hiscompliments. He was of a cheerful dis- position, and had treated us hospitably the preceding evening. He even accompanied me to a considerable distance, till we left, on our right, the town of Sifdwa or Shifawa, an important place in the history of the Pullo reformer ‘Othman dan Fddiye, but at present almost desolate and reduced to great misery, present-
192 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVIII.
ing a fair specimen of the state of the province of Gando, which we here entered.
The country here, as well as near Bodinga, is almost exclusively adorned with monkey-bread trees, and the soil seemed to be very parched; but a little further on we descended into a depression which, having been already fertilised by the rain, was just being sown. Further on, the ground continuing undulating, we watered our horses at a rich source of living water which rushed out from the rocks at the side of a small hamlet. We then passed a large and comfortable- looking place called Dendi (perhaps after a _por- tion of that tribe, which settled here) and adorned with a profusion of trees, among which the dordéwa or Parkia, the géreba or dim palm, and the gigina or deléb palm were most conspicuous. Towards the south-east side it was bordered by a depression full of yams and fresh herbage, and fringed by numbers of monkey-bread trees. ven a little market-place was to be seen; and the place seemed so attractive to my people, that they would fain have spent here the rest of the day, and they were not at all pleased when I insisted on continuing our march. A little after noon we passed a pretty village with a small dyeing-place. Besides corn-fields, where the crops were already two inches out of the ground, indigo was cultivated to a great extent. We then entered upon rocky ground, and, five miles further on, reached the place Shagali, separated into two groups along the northern slope of an eminence, and surrounded on three sides by
Cuapr. LVIII. SHAGA’LIL—SENI'NA. 193
a deep and wide ravine, which made the access to it very difficult. Here we were rather inhospitably received,—the former mayor having been deposed, and a new one not yet installed in his place.
Early in the morning we pursued our yonaay, journey, through a rather hilly country ™***% broken by several small watercourses, full of culti- vated ground and fine timber, principally monkey- bread trees, which now exhibited a more cheerful appearance, as they were clad in fresh foliage. We passed several villages, where we again observed some signs of industry in the shape of dyeing, and, about six miles and a half from Shagali, left the considerable place Senina (the same town which a few days before had been attacked by the enemy) on our left, situated on a small hilly chain. Here we entered a tract of country at present desolate, and thickly covered with underwood, and greatly infested by the independent inhabitants of Kebbi; but it was only of small extent, and, about four miles beyond Senina, we entered, by a steep rocky descent, the fine valley of Sala, which
is intersected by a considerable sheet of water.
We took up our quarters in the walled town of Sala, the dwellings of which were almost lost in the most splendid vegetation, among which one of the finest tamarind trees I have ever seen was greatly distinguished, attracting to its dense foliage countless flights of birds, which were gathering from all sides to pass the night here in cheerful communion. The
wider-spreading foliage of the tamarind and monkey- VOL. IV. 0
194 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LVIII.
bread trees was very picturesquely diversified by a large number of génda trees, or Carica Papaya, while in front of the principal gate a most splendid rimi or bentang tree, was starting forth as a proud landmark, pointing out to the traveller the site of the gate. The camels, who suffered greatly from thirst, immediately on our arrival were sent off to the brook of living water, which is formed at the foot of the rocky cliff a little to the north of the place where we had de- scended from the higher ground.
Tuesday, We reached Gando, the residence of an-
May “th. other powerful Pillo prince (as powerful as that of Sdkoto), after a march of six hours,
through a country richly provided by nature, and
partly, at least, well inhabited. Hill and dale alter- nated, the depressions and cavities offering suitable grounds for the cultivation of yams. The vegetable kingdom also displayed its larger members in great variety. In the village Babanidi, which we passed about two miles from Sdla, we observed the three species of palms which are common to Negroland, in the same locality — viz., the dim, the date, and the deléb palm, while, near a swampy sheet of water before we came to Masama, I caught sight of the first bandana or dyaba tree that I had seen since I had left A’damawa, with the exception of those young offshoots which I had observed in Bamurna. Near this latter place, which was situated at the border of a deep valley, a large swamp spread out covered with rank reed-grass; and beyond the town
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Cuar. LVIII. CHARACTER OF GANDO. 195
of Masdma we had to cross another large and irre- gular valley or faddama, where, even at this season of the year, a large sheet of water was formed, which, according to the statement of the natives, was full of alligators.
The towns also exhibited a considerable degree of in- dustry in their dyeing-places; and a short distance from our halting-place we even passed large hollows about two fathoms in depth, and one in particular where iron had been dug out. Small marketing stalls in some places lined the road, and the town of Masama, with its straggling suburbs, presented an animated spectacle; but cattle were greatly wanting, nothing but sheep being seen, as all the horned cattle had been carried away by the predatory bands of Argungo.
As we approached the town of Gando, I could not help wondering how the people had been led to choose this locality as the seat of a large empire, commanded as it was by hilly chains all around, in the manner shown in the accompanying woodcut, while the rising ground would have offered a far more suitable locality. But the situation of the town is on a par with the 3, character of its dominion — without commanding strength, and quite incapable of keeping | together that large agglomera- tion of provinces which have gathered around it. However, for a provincial town, the interior is very
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196 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVIII.
pleasant and animated, being adorned with a variety of trees, among which the banana is prominent.
Having sent a messenger in advance, I soon ob- tained quarters in the house of El Khassa, the chief eunuch of the court; but they were extremely narrow and unpleasant, although I had a very good clay house for myself.
Thus I had entered the residence of another very important Pullo chief, whose dominion extended several hundred miles over the country which I had to traverse, and whose friendship it was of the utmost importance for me to secure, as his provinces in- close both banks of the Niger, while the dominion of the sultan of Sdékoto does not reach the principal branch at all. It was the more unfavourable that the present ruler of this very extensive kingdom should be a man without energy, and most inacces- sible to a European and a Christian. His name is Khalilu, and he is the son of ‘Abd Allahi*, the brother of the great Reformer ‘Othman, to whom that remarkable man, at his death, gave the west- ern part of his vast domains, while he installed the celebrated Sultan Bello over the eastern portion.
* ‘Abd Allahi died 20th of Moharrem 1245; and Mohammed died 4th of Ramadhan i250. The children of “Abd Allahi were the following: Mohammed Wani, Khalilu, “Abd el Kadiri Inne- hawa, Haliru or Hadhiru and “Aliyu (masuydki)*, ‘Abd el Kadiri Ay, Hassan, ‘Abd e’ RahmAéni, A’bi Bakr Maiguia, Is-hako, Mam- man Sambo (maiyaki).*
* Maiyaki (pl. masuy4ki) means commander-in- chief.
Cuar. LVIII. THE SULTAN KHALI’LU. 197
Khalilu succeeded to his brother Mohammed Wani about seventeen years ago, and has since lived in a state of the greatest seclusion, well fitted for a monk, but by no means suited to the ruler of a vast empire, employing one of his brothers in order to keep up a certain show of imperial dignity where it was abso- lutely necessary. Thus, during the first few years of his reign, he had employed ‘Abd el Kadiri, and was now employing Haliru, or, as the name is written, Ha- dhiru. Even by Mohammedans he is scarcely ever to be seen except on Fridays. It appeared, from my first arrival, extremely doubtful whether he would allow me to see his holy face; and after a vain struggle, merely in order that, by an untimely obstinacy in matters of form, I might not frustrate all my schemes of discovery, I agreed at length to deliver my present to the messengers of the sultan, in his palace, without seeing him. This present consisted of almost the same number of articles as I had given to the emir of Sdékoto, with the exception of the silver-mounted pistols. I gave him three bernises —one of yellow, one of red cloth, and the third of the kind called helali; a haik or jerid of the finest quality, a Stambuli carpet, two entire pieces of mus- lin, a red cap, four loaves of sugar, three phials of rose oil, a pair of razors, five looking-glasses, a pound of cloves, and another of benzoin.
It was very unfortunate that a foreigner and an adventurer, who had no other interest than his own selfishness, became the go-between with me and the
03
198 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVIII.
sultan, and found ample opportunities, owing to the monkish character of the latter, for advancing his own interests, in the thousand embarrassments which he caused me. This was El Bakay, a person who made me hate his very name, though it afterwards be- came so dear to me on account of my protector in Timbuktu being called by the same. However, he also was an Arab from the west, and from the tribe of the Kunta, but not connected in any way with the family of the sheikh. After having tried his fortune in several other places along the Niger, especially in Zagha and Yélu, he had at length settled down here, constituting himself a sort of consul of the Arabs, and, in the miserable state into which affairs were plunged in this court, soon exercising a great influence over the principal and the secondary rulers ; for, besides Khalilu, his several brothers enjoyed a large share of authority, to all of whom I had, in consequence, to make suitable presents besides. The most remarkable amongst them were the above-men- tioned Haliru and Bu-Bakr Maiguna, the latter an aspiring and restless man, who occasionally distin- guished himself by acts of great violence, and to whom, in consequence, I had to make a more respect- able present, in order to ensure myself against any predatory proceedings on his part.
My present to the sultan himself seemed at first to have given great satisfaction; but after a few days, matters assumed a different aspect, and I was told that the pistols which I had given to ‘Aliyu
Cuar. LVII. DIFFICULT TRANSACTIONS. 199
were of more value than the whole of the presents which Khalilu had received from me, while the em- pire of the latter extended over a larger tract of country than that of the former; and I was clearly given to understand that it was not in my power either to proceed or even to retrace my steps, unless I gave much larger presents. After a protracted and serious dispute with El Bakay and. my broker ‘Ali el A’geren, I came at length to the determina- tion of sacrificing the second handsome pair of silver- mounted pistols which I possessed, and then at length I had some prospect of being allowed to proceed on my journey, although the state of the country before me was really such as to make progress appear very difficult, and it was certainly very doubtful whether I should be able to reach the river. After much trouble and a great number of presents, however, which I had to give to the crafty Arab, I managed even to obtain a letter of franchise from Khalilu written with his own hand, but in so general a style that it had not much the character externally of an official document, although its contents were alto- gether very satisfactory, guaranteeing full security to any Englishmen visiting his territories, and com- manding the officers of the various provinces to respect their property and to facilitate their pro- ceedings.
Besides the presents to be given to all these people, I had also to make a fresh sacrifice to my Arab ‘Ali el A’geren; for, notwithstanding the arrange-
0 4
200 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVIII.
ment which [I had previously made with him, when he saw the difficulties I was in, and being aware that the easy part of my journey was now over, he threatened to leave me if I did not ac- cept the conditions which he prescribed to me. I had also the misfortune to lose, during my stay here, my best camel, which I had bought from the go- vernor of Katsena for 60,000 shells; so that J was obliged to purchase another animal from Bu Bakr Maiguna at the price he demanded, camels here being very scarce.
Notwithstanding all this disagreeable business, which occasionally cost me much bitter reflection, greatly enhanced by the advance of the season, the month of May being at an end, and that of June having set in with violent rains, I passed the time during my residence in this place not quite uselessly, especially as I was so fortunate as to obtain here from a learned man of the name of Bokhari, a son of the late Mohammed Wani, a copy of that most valuable historical work of A’hmed Baba, to which my friend ‘Abd el Kader, in Sdkoto, had first called my at- tention, but without being able to satisfy my curio- sity ; and I spent three or four days most pleasantly in extracting the more important historical data of this work, which opened to me quite a new insight into the history of the regions on the middle course of the Niger, whither I was bending my steps, ex- citing in me a far more lively interest than I had previously felt in a kingdom the great power of
Cuap. LVIII. | AH’MED BA’BA’S WORK. 201
which, in former times, I here found set forth in very clear and distinct outlines, and I only lamented that I had not time enough to copy the whole.
As for the town of Gando itself, there was not much to be seen; and the situation of the place, hemmed in as it is in a narrow valley, did not ad- mit of long excursions ; moreover, the insecurity of the neighbourhood was so great that it was not pos- sible, at least in a northerly direction, to proceed many yards from the wall. Several times during my stay the alarm was given that the enemy was approaching; and the whole political state of the place was plunged into the most terrible disorder, the enemy being established in several strong places at scarcely half a day’s journey distance, Argungo being the residence of Datid the rebellious chief of the independent Kabawa. A numerous foray (‘‘yaki,” or, as the Fulbe say, “ konno’’) left early in the morning of the 29th of May, but returned the same evening amid the noisy manifestations of the inhabitants. They had however only given an ad- ditional proof of their cowardly disposition, inas- much as they had not even dared to attack the enemy, who had just succeeded in ransacking the town of Yara, and were carrying all the unfortu- nate inhabitants into slavery.
The interior of the place was not quite without its charms, the whole of the town being intersected, from north to south, by the broad and shallow bed of a torrent, which exhibited fine pasture-grounds of
BR aS AA HRS hed ertainti Bua,
202 -TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LVIII.
fresh succulent herbage, while it was skirted on both sides by a dense border of exuberant vegetation, which altogether is much richer in this place than either in Sdékoto or Wurno, being surpassed only by the fine vegetable ornament of Kand. The rains are extremely plentiful in Gando, causing here quite an exceptional state in the productive power of the soil; and to this circumstance we have partly to ascribe the fact that very fine bananas are grown here in considerable quantity: and the fruit being just ripe at the time, formed a very pleasant variation to my usual food. The onion of Gando is remarkable for its size and quality, compared with that of all the neighbouring districts; and it is well for the traveller, in whatever direction he may intend to go, to lay ina supply of this whole- some article. But the place is extremely dull, and the market very insignificant—a fact easily to be explained by the desperate state of the provinces around, although the situation of the capital, as a central place for commerce, is rather favourable. But the town of Jéga has not yet lost, in this respect, the whole of its former importance, and is still the great entrepot for that coarse kind of coloured silk which is imported from the north, and which, not- withstanding its very inferior character, is neverthe- less so greatly sought after by the natives for adorn- ing their leatherwork. It is, perhaps, in consequence of the little trade which is carried on, that the people of Gando have applied themselves with more industry
Cuap. LVIII. CLIMATE. — EXTENT OF EMPIRE. 203
to supplying their own want of cotton cloth— and no one can deny that their cotton strips are of first- rate quality: their dyeing, on the contrary, is very coarse, and they seem quite unable to give to the dyed cloth that lustre which so eminently distin- guishes the manufactures of Nupe and Kand; but nevertheless this cloth of Gando is in great demand as far as Libtako.
The kingdom or empire of Gando, according to its titles, comprises a number of wealthy provinces, all lying along that great West-African river which opens such an easy access into this continent, or on its branches ; although nobody who stays in the capital for any length of time would suppose that it holds such a preeminent rank. I shall give some further details respecting these provinces in the Appendix*; here I will only enumerate them by name. They are, the western half of Kebbi, Mauri or A’rewa, Zabérma, Dén- dina (comprising Keénga-koy and Zagha), a great part of Gurma (comprising the provinces of Galaijo, Tordde, Yagha, and Libtako), with a small portion of Borgu or Barba, a large portion of Yéruba with the capital Alori or Ilorin, and, on the east side of the river, the provinces of Yatiri and Nupe or Nyffi. But at that time most of these provinces were plunged into an abyss of anarchy, which could not fail to im- part to the capital a more sombre aspect than it may possess in general.
* See Appendix VI.
204
CHAP. LIX.
THE PROVINCE OF KEBBI AND ITS RIVER.—THE SALT VALLEY OF FOGHA.—REACH THE NIGER.
saturday, AT length I was allowed to proceed on my June 4th. journey, which now soon promised to be- come of overwhelming interest, as I was approaching that great African river which has been the object of so much discussion and individual ambition for so long a period. There had been a very heavy thunder- storm during the night, accompanied by a great abundance of rain, which lasted till late in the morn- ing, and delayed my setting out for a considerable time. Jt was almost eleven o’clock when we at length left the western gate of the town, or the kédfa- n-Jéga, and entered the open fields, where the crop was already shooting forth. Keeping along the rocky ground bordering the valley on the north side, we soon had a specimen of the swamps which during the rainy season are formed in these deep valleys of Kebbi, while we beheld here also extensive rice- grounds, the first which I saw under actual culti- vation. But the guide, who was to accompany me to the very western extremity of the territory of Khalilu, having not yet arrived, we made only a short march of about six miles, and took up our quarters in a
Cuap. LIX. LEAVING GANDO.—KA’/MBASA. 205
comfortable hut lying outside the walls of Kambasa, _ which, by a separate wall, is divided into two dis- tinct quarters.
This town lies on the north side of a large swamp, which fills the bottom of the faddama, and affords excellent grounds for the cultivation of rice. The governor treated me hospitably, sending me every- thing that was wanted for a good African dinner, from a sheep down to a bit of salt and a few cakes of dodéwa; and I made him a suitable present in return. During the night we suffered greatly from mos- quitoes, giving us a fair-idea of what we were to ex- pect on our journey through these swampy valleys.
Another storm again delayed our depar- ga, ture this morning; and being now in the June 5th. middle of the rainy season, I had a fair sample of what I should have to endure on my long journey to Timbuktu. In consequence of the rain, it was again eleven o’clock before we could start. The principal road leads along the northern bank of the faddama, by way of Zoro, the residence of Chafo a son of Kha- lilu; but it was deemed too unsafe in the present unsettled state of the country,—that very town of Zoro, although situated on the north side of the fad- dama, at present being only accessible from the south; and it was decided, therefore, to cross the swamp close to Kambasa, in order that it might afford us protection, in our further progress through this unsafe region, against any sudden attack from the rebels in the northern part of the province.
206 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
Thus proceeding along the south side of the sheet
of water, here about 200 yards broad and thickly ©
overgrown with tall reeds of different species, in- cluding a large proportion of papyrus, we reached, after a little less than two miles, another walled town, likewise called Kambasa,—a civil war having broken out among the inhabitants of the former town, and a portion.of them having separated from the original tribe, and settled in this place. We then continued along the southern side of the valley, till, after a march of about four miles, we had to cross a small branch which joins the chief trunk of the valley from the south, and opened a view of Mount Bobye, over the saddle of which the road leads from Taémbawel to Jéga, the great market- place of this quarter of the country, while the fad- dama, here spreading out in a large sheet of water, receded behind a walled town called Badda-badda. A track frequented by the elephant, of which for a long time [ had seen no traces, led through the rich pasture-ground, to the edge of the water. Almost the whole cultivation along this fertile but swampy valley consisted of rice. It was about 1200 yards broad, and even at the present season, before the rains had set in, was full of water. A couple of months later it inundates its low borders, and almost pre- cludes any passage, so that, on my home journey from the west, I was obliged to pursue another path. The crops of Negro corn were here already three inches high, numbers of people being busily em-
Cuar. LIX. GAU’MACHE’. | 207
ployed in the labours of the fields, while an iso- lated deléb palm gave a peculiar character to the landscape. The prevailing representatives of the ve- getable kingdom were the doréwa and the useful kadena tree. The pasture-grounds were full of cattle ; and everything testified to the rich nature of the district, which is still very populous. After passing another walled town perched on the high border of the swampy valley, three miles and a half beyond Badda-badda, we reached Gaumaché, at present re- duced to a small hamlet, or rather “ rumde,” inhabited exclusively by slaves, and adorned by a few speci- mens of the butter tree and the dordwa. It was once a large walled town; but in the sanguinary war between the native Kabawa and the conquering tribe of the Fulbe, it was destroyed by the former.
Having crossed here a considerable stream of run- ning water, which testified to the quantity of rain which had fallen in this district, we passed, on our left, the large walled town of Talba, where the beating of drums gave proof of warlike preparation. The fields around were adorned with numbers of deléb palms. | |
At a short distance from Talba lies Daube. The whole of this district had attained a high degree of power and prosperity under the dominion of the Kanta, and had only recently begun, in consequence of the war of independence, to lose many of its former centres of human industry.
An obvious illustration of this desolation was
208 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIX.
afforded by the little town of Yara, which we reached after another three miles. We had left the faddama at some distance on our right, and kept along rocky ground occasionally broken by patches of fine sandy soil. But we were urgently warned, by people whom we met on our road, of the danger of an approaching ghazzia.
This place, which a short time ago was the seat of human wellbeing, had been destroyed by the enemy on the 29th of the preceding month, and all the inhabitants carried into slavery, notwithstanding the presence of the expedition which, as I have mentioned above, marched out from Gando to the succour of their countrymen. The aspect of the place was doleful and melancholy in the extreme, corresponding well with the dangerous situation in which we found ourselves; and while traversing the half-ruined village, which from a bustling little place had become the abode of death, I almost involun- tarily snatched my gun, and held it steadily in my hand. But life and death in these regions are closely allied ; and we had scarcely left the ruined village behind us, when, in a widening of the faddama, which again opened on our right, we were greeted by a most luxuriant rice-field, where the crops were already almost three feet high, and girt by the finest border of a rich variety of shady trees, such as the dordéwa, kadé, and kdagim, overtopped by a number of tall deléb palms, the golden fruit of which, half ripe, was starting forth from under the feathery foliage.
Cnap. LIX. UNSAFE STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 209
But our attention was soon diverted from the en- joyment of this scenery, to a point of greater interest to ourselves. We here observed a solitary individual, in spite of the unsafe state of the country, sitting
- quietly at the foot of one of the palm trees, and seem-
ingly enjoying its fruit. Now, coupling the present state of the country with the news we had just re- ceived, we could not help greatly suspecting this man to be a spy, posted here by the enemy in order to give them information of the passers by; and I had the greatest difficulty in preventing my Méjebri Arab, who, when there was no danger for himself, always mustered a great amount of courage, from shooting this suspicious-looking character. Proceeding then through a very rich country, we reached, after a march of about two miles, the town of Gulumbé, situated close to the southern border of the valley, and exhibiting extensive fields cultivated with yams and cotton. The banana constituted the chief ornament of the narrow border inclosed_be- tween the faddama on one side, and the wall of the town on the other, and the génda or Lrica Papaya, raising its feathery foliage on its slender, virginlike stem, towered proudly over the wall, as shown in the woodcut on the next page. The town was walled, of considerable size, and densely inhabited ; but never- theless the people were in such dread of the enemy, that they kept up a continual beating of drums; and although, on account of-the smallness of the gate, we encamped outside, in a courtyard situated VOL. IV. P
210 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIX.
between the wall and the border of the faddama, we thought it prudent to fire a few shots, in order to apprize the people around that we were well pre- pared to receive them, to the great relief of the
»
inhabitants of the town, who, delighted at the unex- pected addition to their strength, treated us in a very hospitable manner. The only disturbance to our night’s rest was caused by the mosquitoes, which harassed us greatly and drove most of my people into the rudu, that kind of raised hut which I have described on a former occasion, and which forms the most essential part of even the poorest dwelling in the province of Kebbi.
Monday, After a thunder-storm accompanied by a few Juneth. drops of rain, the night was succeeded by
a beautiful morning; and I felt great pleasure in
Cuar. LIX. GU’LUMBE’.—SOLITARY PILGRIM. ITE
surveying the interesting landscape, only regretting that the insecure state of the country did not allow the natives to enjoy it in tranquillity, the war having driven thousands of people from their homes, and as many more into captivity. The fields on this side of the town, as well as on the other, where we had ap- proached it the day before, were fenced with great care, while horses and asses were grazing on the rich pas- ture-grounds. After a little more than a mile and a half, we passed, on our left, a farming-village called I’gené, after its master, a cheerful Pullo of advanced age, who was just inspecting the labour of his slaves in the fields. The crops hereabouts were already more than a foot above the ground; and a little further on they reached a height of two feet. Besides sorghum, yams were cultivated to a great extent; but nevertheless, on account of the insecurity of the country, dearth and famine everywhere prevailed.
A little further on we passed, on our left, a con- siderable sheet of water, with plenty of dordwa, large kadé, and sycamores. The deléb palms had ceased just beyond I’gené. A broad flat-topped mountain, called Hamari, at the eastern foot of which lies the town of Zéro, broke the uniform surface of the country.
Proceeding through this rich but distracted and unsafe district, I was greatly delighted when, near the walled town of Kardi, I fell in with a solitary and courageous pilgrim, a Jolof, from the shores of the Atlantic, carrying his little luggage on his head, and seemingly well prepared to defend it with his
i hee
219 7 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
double-barrelled gun which he carried on his shoulder, and a short sword hanging at his side, while his shirt was tossed gallantly up, and tied over the shoulder, behind the neck. In my joy at the sight of this en- terprising native traveller, I could not forbear making him a small present, in order to assist him m his arduous undertaking.
The walls of the town of Kardi, which is chiefly inhabited by the slaves of Khalilu, and which is of great importance for the supply of corn in this pro- vince, were strengthened by a thick fence of thorny bushes, which, in these regions, afford an immense advantage in the defence of any town, by furnishing a secure place of retreat to the archers.
The green bottom of the wide faddama had receded to a greater distance on our right; but we joined it again seven miles from Gulumbé, and had here to cross it beyond a couple of hamlets which, lying close together and called, the one Hausdwa, and the other Kabawa, gave us a slight indication as to the history of this country, where the Hausa element, as the more civilized, gradually gained the upper hand and drove the native element as well as the Songhay, which advanced from the west, into the background. Perhaps, if we knew more of the history of this coun- try, the annals of these two villages might open to us a view of an interesting national struggle. The faddama was here at present dry; and besides yams a great deal of tobacco was cultivated. We then traversed a wooded tract adorned with a violet lil-
‘ome
Cuar. LIX. SITUATION OF BI/RNI-N-KEBBI. 213
acea and with the bush tsdda or bidér, the delicious cherrylike fruit of which I have mentioned repeatedly, and, slightly ascending, reached, a little before eleven o’clock, the beautiful site of the former more exten- sive wall of the large town of Birni-n-Kebbi. It was founded in this commanding position by the dynasty of the Kanta, at the time when the rival Songhay empire was dashed to pieces and became the prey of foreigners and of a number of small tribes, who had once been kept in a state of insignificance and sub- jection.
Under such circumstances Kebbi, besides being the seat of a powerful kingdom, became also the centre of a considerable trade even in gold, till it was de- stroyed by the Fulbe under ‘Abd Allahi, in the year of the Hejra 1221, when a great deal of gold and silver is said to have been found among the ruins. The royal palace, however (the ruins of which I visited), does not seem to have been very extensive ; but this in part may be attributed to the fact that a great portion of the residence consisted of straw huts for the female department and the followers.* The walls of the present town are almost a mile distant from those of the old one, lying close to the steep slope which, with a descent of about 250 feet, goes down here into the large green valley or faddama which intersects the
whole of Kebbi from E.N.E. to W.S.W., and is
* Kalgo, at the northern foot of the mountain, lies south-west from here, and the town of Gurma, at present destroyed, north- east beyond the valley.
r3
214 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
at this part almost three miles in breadth, affording the richest ground for cultivation, but at present plunged in a state of the utmost insecurity. Even then it was full of cattle, at least its southerly part; but they had to be carefully watched by the natives from above the slope, for the whole of the country on the other side, the hilly chains and cones of which are clearly seen, is in the hands of the A’zena, that is to say, those native inhabitants of Kebbi who, since the death of the more energetic ‘Atiku, are suc- cessfully struggling for their religious and political independence. On the very brink of the slope a market was held, where we bought some necessaries before entering the town; and I willingly lingered a few moments, as the whole presented a very novel sight, increased by a picturesque spur or promontory which juts out into the valley a few miles to the west, and is a remarkable feature in the Jandscape. We then entered the town, which is rather thickly inhabited, but is far from presenting that cheerful aspect which is peculiar to most of the towns in these regions, as it is almost bare of trees. I myself was quartered in an excellent hut, belonging to a newly- married couple, and possessing all the comforts of which these simple dwellings are capable, — the floor and walls of the hut being neatly polished, and the background or ‘‘nanne” being newly sprinkled with snow-white sand; but the whole of the courtyard was extremely narrow, and scarcely afforded space for my horses and camels.
So ee ee a ae eee ae
Cuar. LIX. BI/RNI-N-KEBBI. 915
There are two great men in the town, “Othman Lowel and ‘Othman Zaki; but the former is the real governor of the place, bearing the pompous but rather precarious title of serki-n-Kebbi—for even he, at the present time, possesses such limited authority, that it was rather out of my respect for historical connec- tions than for his real power*, that I made him a considerable present. He is a man of simple man- ners, without pretensions, and almost blind. His residence was distinguished by its neatness. The other great man, “Othman Zaki, who was many years ago governor of Nupe, and knew Clapperton, although I did not pay him a visit, showed his friendship for me by very hospitable treatment. He has since re- turned to Nuipe, and is rebuilding Rabba. We hada long conversation in the afternoon with the more re- spectable inhabitants, on the subject of our journey, and most of the people thought that I should not succeed in reaching the Niger, the country being in such a turbulent state; but they advised me to address myself to the governor of Zogirma, who was the only man, they said, able to assist me in my endeavours to traverse that part of the country with some degree of security.
In the morning, we left the town in the 7, gcaay, company of a son of ‘Othman, a person of %™° 7. manly bearing and a rather European expression of countenance; and traversing the fields, which were
* For a statement of the few facts which have come to my know- ledge, with regard to the history of this kingdom, see Appendix.
P4
216 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX:
quite dry and as yet without any preparation for cul- tivation, we directed our march straight for a pass in the mountain-spur which I have mentioned above, and which is called Duko; but we found it too narrow for our heavily-laden camels to pass through, the path being cut into the sandstone like a gutter, so that I was obliged to send my train round the southern slope of the promontory. We thus de- scended almost to the level of the faddama; but hav- ing traversed a richly-wooded vale with a variety of trees, such as dynnia, madachi, and fresh kadé, we had another mountain-spur on our left, while on the right the exuberant savanna of the valley became visible. The place was enlivened by cattle, and occa- sionally by a sheet of water at times fringed with a rich border of vegetation, amongst which also isolated specimens of the deléb palm, besides doréwa, were not wanting.
Thus we reached the foot of a rocky eminence, on the top of which the walled town of Kédla is situated in a very strong position, commanding the whole passage of the valley. It is the seat of a governor who bears the title of serki-n-Zaromé, and who is said to have as many as seventy musketeers under his command; so that, as he was an officer of much importance in this turbulent country, it did not seem advisable to pass him unnoticed, and we therefore determined to take up our quarters here, although it was still early in the morning. He has a large house or palace, but it is somewhat in decay. Having made him a small present, I was hospitably treated
mae. LIX. KO'LA.—JU’/GGURU’. 917
both by himself and his sister, who sent me an excellent goose, which afforded a very pleasant change in my diet. He accompanied me the follow- ing morning to the boundary of his little territory. Our road lay through fine corn-fields, shaded by beautiful doréwa trees, along the border of this fer- tile valley, which was formerly surrounded on both sides by an uninterrupted line of large walled towns. But most of them are now deserted and destroyed, such as the towns of Kuka (which lies about three hours north-west) and Ambursa; and both factions are continually harassing each other by predatory expeditions. In fact the state of the country is such, that the whole of: the tribute which the pro- vince of Nupe has to pay to Gando is obliged to take the roundabout way through Zagha and Bunza, the latter of which is situated about eight miles south from Zogirma, on the river Gindi, which is said to be navigable as far as this place, and sometimes even as far as Jéga. A considerable number of horses were grazing on the fine pasture-grounds at the border of the valley, under the protection of a couple of hamlets well defended by a stockade; but the herbage was full of small venomous snakes, which repeatedly crossed our path in such numbers as I never saw before. When we reached the border of the territory of Juggurli, my companion returned to his residence. Leaving the walled town of Juggurt (surrounded by a good many monkey-bread trees) on the hills to our left, we reached, after a march of about five miles
218 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIX.
along the border of the valley, and only once crossing a romantic rocky defile, the considerable town of Digei; and here I had the satisfaction of being offi- cially received by three sons of the governor of Zogirma, who quite unexpectedly came galloping up to the front and saluted me, wishing me all possible success on my dangerous undertaking, and bidding me welcome to the province of their father. The eldest of the three was a very handsome young man, and splendidly mounted upon a tall grey horse. Pur- suing then our march in their company, we imme- diately entered the wide faddama which separated us from Zogirma; and it took us more than three hours to cross this shallow swampy valley, the whole of which at the end of the rainy season 1s filled with water, but which at present was only intersected by two broken sheets of stagnant water, while I endea- voured in vain to make out, at this spot, an uninter- rupted channel of the gulbi: and yet, in the month of September, the whole valley is flooded by a river of considerable breadth.
The town, which was surrounded by a clay wall in good repair, impressed me as being more considerable than I had supposed it to be. We were led imme- diately to our quarters, and were here treated with very good tiggera, or prepared millet and sour milk; after which a large calabash full of rice, and, a short time after, a heifer, were brought me as a present. Later in the afternoon I went to pay my respects to the governor, Hamed Biurtu, and found
we: oe
Cuar. LIX. ZOGI’RMA AND ITS GOVERNOR. 919
him a very decent-looking man of from fifty to sixty years of age, with almost European features, but with rather a melancholy expression of countenance. His residence had a very stately appearance, and surprised me not a little by its style of architecture, which ap- proached to the Gothic, although the fine and well- ornamented clay walls were only loosely held together by a framework of boards and branches. Presenting
to him a red bernus of middling quality, a piece of
muslin, a pair of razors, and some other trifles, I delivered to him the letter with which Khalilu had furnished me, and explained to him how the ruler of Gando had given me hopes of his being able to con- duct me safe to Fégha; for the two horsemen whom I had with me, one from Gando and the other from Sdékoto, were only of service as long as there was anything to eat and while there was no great danger. He received my address in the most cheerful manner, and informed me that there were two roads, one of
them leading straight on through the midst of the
forest from Zogirma to the town of Kalliul. This he said was the safest, though it was probably too difficult for my heavily-laden camels. The other, he added, was more convenient but very unsafe. He promised, however, that he would find trustworthy
men to escort me.
Zogirma may contain from 7000 to 8000 inha- bitants ; but at that time it was suffering greatly from famine, on account of the war which had been raging for the last two years, between the Fulbe conquerors
220 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
of the country and the native inhabitants the Dendi, who, favoured by the weakness of the government of their oppressors, had risen to assert their in- dependence; and I could scarcely feel dissatisfied with my host when, after the first signs of hospitality which he had shown me, he lefé us to provide for our own wants, although we had some difficulty in procuring a sufficient supply of corn. I was very sorry that, owing to the unfavourable circumstances of the whole country, I was prevented from visit- ing the town of Bunza (which is situated south from Zogirma), on account of its interesting and important situation as regards the intercourse with Nupe on the lower part of the gulbi, where it is still navi- gable, and the number of deléb palms which are said to adorn it. There was also residing in this place a man whom I should like to have visited, inas- much as he is reported to possess a great knowledge of the history of the Kanta, and of the relations of the province of Kebbi to the neighbouring countries. His name is Mallem Mahamtdu. |
Thursday, We were to start the following day, in June %th- order to allow our camels some rest before entering the unsafe wilderness; but in the course of the morning the news suddenly arrived that a party of Tawarek, with about forty camels besides bullocks and asses, had arrived at the neighbouring town of Tilli on their way to Fégha, thus affording us the opportunity of traversing the wilderness with some degree of security. It was therefore decided
Cuap. LIX. NEW COMPANIONS.—TILLI. 291
that we should start in the afternoon by way of Tilli, which certainly lay greatly out of our road, in order to join this party, while my young friend A’bu Bakr, the eldest son of the governor, rode im- mediately to the neighbouring town to induce those people to wait for us. It was thus deemed sufficient to give me for companions only two horsemen; but fortunately they were of such a character that I pre- ferred them to at least a dozen other people, both of them being experienced old warriors and most respectable men, one of them having been till lately the governor of the town of Débe, which was now deserted, and the site of which we had to pass on our road. I was heartily glad to get rid of my two former effeminate companions, Lowel, the servant
of the governor of Gando, and Beshir, an atten-
dant of the ghaladima in Sdékoto, as they had been of scarcely any use to me on my way hither, except, perhaps, in procuring me a better reception from the governors of the towns and villages; and I gladly complied with the demands of my new companions, by giving to each of them a new black “litham” or ‘¢ rawani baki” for themselves, a flask of rose oil for their wives, and one thousand shells for the expenses of their households during their absence.
Returning then in a north-easterly direction along the western border of the broad faddama, we reached after a march of about four miles, when the sun had already gone down, the town of Tilli, which, coming from Diggi, we had had just opposite us on the other
222 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
side of the valley. Here the danger from the enemy was already considered so great, that the gates of the town on this side had been walled up, only a very narrow passage having been left, which could only be used by way of a drawbridge or kadarku. Having here learned that our new companions were already gone on in advance, and had encamped at the very border of the forest, we changed our direction from north-east to north-west, and, after a march of about a mile, encamped close to them. A large herd of cattle had its resting-place in the neighbourhood. Friday, When we started, at an early hour in the June /0th. morning, we soon left the cultivated grounds and entered a dense forest, which at the present sea- son had a very pleasant appearance, all the trees being in blossom, and spreading a delightful fragrance around. We were also agreeably surprised when, after proceeding about five miles, we passed two extensive ponds, which supplied us with delicious water. But on our return journey, in August 1854, the water of these same ponds had acquired such a pernicious character, that it almost poisoned the whole of my troop. A little beyond these ponds, we had a con- siderable rocky declivity, of about one hundred feet, from the top of which we surveyed the ex- tensive forest before us. To our disappointment, we encamped at a very early hour, a little after noon; but a short distance further on, the danger would have become so imminent that it would have been unwise to pass the night there. Having,
sled all rea A
Cuar. LIX. A DAY IN THE WILDERNESS. 223
therefore, pitched my tent in the midst of the forest, I indulged with great delight in the pleasure of an open encampment, such as I had not enjoyed since leaving Gawast, the dirty huts in which I had lately taken up my quarters having literally turned my stomach. But I had to enjoy this wild encamp- ment rather longer than was pleasant; for we had to remain in it the whole of the following day, in con- sequence of my friends the A’sbendawa losing, in the course of the night, one of their camels, which - they did not choose to abandon. ‘This involuntary feat of mine procured me a name in the whole neighbour- hood, so that when I safely returned the following year from my journey to Timbuktu, the people of the neighbourhood designated me only as the man
_ who had spent a day in the unsafe wilderness.
But it almost seemed as if we were to stay here a third day; for when we were getting ready our luggage early in the morning of the 12th, a very violent thunder-storm broke out, with torrents of rain, which made our open encampment rather un- comfortable, and did not.allow us to start until a late hour. After a march of about four miles through a very dense forest with low ridges on our right, we reached the site of Birni-n-Débe, a beautiful open spot adorned with a rich abundance of doréwa besides a tolerable number of deléb palms, while beyond the rich mass of vegetation a hilly chain ap- proached from the north-east. Footprints of elephants were here observed in every direction. The rich cha- racter of the country scarcely allows the traveller to
224 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LIX.
suspect that a few miles to the north lies the province of Mdéuri or A’rewd, which all my authorities repre- sent as a country approaching closely to the nature of the desert. |
Having then entered again thick forest, which occasionally became so dense that it scarcely allowed us to pass, and caused repeated delays, we reached, after a march of about nine miles, a large depression or shallow vale coming from the north-east from the province of Mauri, and therefore called Dallul or Rafi-n-Mauri (the Vale of Mauri), richly clad with a profusion of the most succulent herbage and with numerous deléb palms, besides a few specimens of the dum palm ; and having halted here for a few minutes near a well and the site of a former Pullo settlement of the name of Bana, we crossed the path which leads from Mauri to Yélu, the capital of the pro- vince of Déndina. This is the most dangerous part of the whole route, on account of the two provinces, that of Mauri and Déndina, having rebelled, and there being constant intercourse between the enemy in these two quarters along this track, so that our com- panions were not a little alarmed when fresh foot- prints of horses were here discovered. However we could move on but slowly on account of the dense thicket, and the anxiety of the people to collect the fruit of the deléb palm, corn being extremely scanty and scarcely to be got in this region at the time. Here the camel, which I had received from Khalilu
in a present, and which I had given up to my Méjebri_
Ne GRtericeniiien OURS Soa 4
Cuar. LIX. SHALLOW VALES. <o Oee
companion, went raving mad, making the most ludi- crous leaps, and kicking in every direction, till it fell to the ground.
At length we emerged from the dense vegetation of the fertile but neglected vale, and ascended higher ground, which separates the dallul Mauri from the dallul Fégha*, and after a while obtained a sight of the hilly chain bordering the east side of the latter valley, which runs from N. 20°E. to 8. 20° W., being at the broadest part about 1000 yards across. These val- leys certainly form a very remarkable feature in this quarter, and, by their shallow character and the total want of a current in the water here collected, evi- dently prove the little inclination which the country has towards the Niger, as well as the limited extent of ground which they drain; and it seems extremely doubtful whether, even after the plentiful rains which occasionally fall in the mountainous country of A’s- ben, the watercourses of that region have even the slightest connection with these shallow vales which join the Niger.
It. was half-past four in the afternoon when, greatly fatigued by our long and slow march, we gradually descended the shelving ground into the valley of Fégha, the beautifully sloping banks of which are adorned with a profusion of dim palms, but are entirely wanting in deléb palms. Crossing then the green vale, which was clothed with rank grass, and
* Dallul Fogha joins the Niger at Birni-n-Dole, one day and a half from Gaya.
VOL. IV. Q
226 TRAVELS IN AFRICA, Cnar. LIX.
only presented here and there a broken sheet of water, we reached the first salt-manufacturing hamlet, which is situated on a mound of rubbish of almost regularly quadrangular shape, and of about thirty. feet elevation, not unlike the ancient towns of Assy- ria, while at its foot a shallow dirty pond of brackish water of almost black colour spread out, — the whole — scenery forming avery remarkable ensemble, of which an attempt has been made to give a fair representation in the plate opposite.
A few cattle were grazing here and there, but they looked very sickly and emaciated, and skeletons of others were lying about in all directions, proving the ravages that disease had made among them: for, be- sides the fact that general epidemic diseases visit the cattle in these regions as well as in the countries to the south of the equator at certain periods, the con- quering tribe settled in this quarter having had to sustain a long siege against the enemy, most of their cattle, being cooped up in the town, had perished for want of pasture. Notwithstanding all these dis- asters, the inhabitants of Kalliul stood their ground ; for the Fulbe hereabouts are a very warlike race, and are excellent archers. Several of them, at- tracted by the news of the arrival of a caravan with corn, of which they stood so much in need, rushed past us on horseback as we were looking out for a place where we might take up our quar- ters with some degree of safety. Leaving two other salt-manufacturing hamlets on our left side
ay
ts Rut ay =
pd gist Mt
=:
igealgetye
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Crap. LIX. THE VALLEY OF FO’GHA. 227
equally jutting out into the bottom of the vale, we descended at length from a higher slope crowned by a cluster of well-built but at present deserted huts; and being informed that the town of Kalliul, or Kaura, was still some distance off, and far out of our road, we turned into one of these salt-hamlets, which was the fourth on this side. Here we were quartered in avery excellent hut, but suffered greatly from mosquitoes during the following night.
We remained in this poor hamlet the following day, and, being aware of the great distress which prevailed in the whole of this tract of country, I had no more urgent business than to despatch two of my men early in the morning to our companions the A’sbenawa, who had encamped on the other side of the valley, in order to endeavour to buy from them as much corn as they were able to spare; but my servants soon returned with the news that the dis- tressed inhabitants had taken from the fataki or na- tive traders all their corn by force. I was therefore rather badly off, but nevertheless was prevented from pursuing my route at once, as the camels wanted some repose. The site of our hamlet was highly interesting to me; and I soon set out for a stroll around this artificial mound of rubbish. It was of considerable size, measuring about 200 yards in leneth, and the same in breadth, with an elevation of 50 feet towards the bottom of the valley, and about 20 towards the edge of the bank,—the whole of this mound bearing evident proof of its artificial charac-
Qa 2
~-
228 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LIX.
ter, consisting as it did of nothing but the soil of the valley itself, from which the saline particles had been extracted. The salt is here prepared in the follow- ing manner. The earth is taken from the bottom of the vale, and put into large funnels made of straw
and reeds, when water is poured upon the earth,
and strained through the funnels, after which it is —
caught in vessels placed underneath, and then boiled, and the sediment formed into the shape of a small loaf.
That it is the earth which contains the saline par- ticles, and not the rank grass which grows here, I am quite sure, although in other places there is no doubt that salt is extracted from the grass growing in such localities: but this can only be done by burning, the salt being extracted from the ashes; and no such process is pursued here. The salt is of a greyish-yellow colour, and quite fit for cooking pur- poses; it is of a much better quality than the bitter salt of Bilma, although, no doubt, far inferior to the beautiful crystal salt of Taddénni, of which I here saw the first specimen with some Songhay pilgrims, who had left Hémbori four months previously on their way to Mekka. However, such a mode of pro- ceeding is only practicable in the dry, or towards the beginning of the rainy season; for at the end of the latter the valley is quite full of water, which then is fresh, and is said to contain plenty of fish, the saltish properties of the soil being too scanty and inconsiderable to impregnate so large body of
—e
Cuap. LIX. THE SALT OF FO’/GHA. 229
water. Even at present a considerable quantity of the aqueous element had already collected, filling, in some places, the whole width of the valley be- tween the two banks, to the depth of a foot or two, so that the people could not make use of the soil from the valley itself; but they had stored up a sufficient provision to enable them to carry on their labours for a month or two longer.
The Filbe call these places sile-chdlli. It is only the salt which induces the inhabitants to remain in this locality ; for they have been harassed extremely by their energetic enemy the Déndi. The town of Kalliul had had to sustain, during a very short pe- riod, no fewer than five attacks from the latter, whose chief seat, Yélu, closely borders upon their territory ; and, in addition to the sad circumstance of all their cattle having died, these people had also lost the whole of their slaves, who, under such circumstances, had run away ina body. The neighbourhood, even at the present moment, was so unsafe, that the people of the town would not allow me to stay in the open hamlet where I was, and wanted me to come to them behind their wall; but fearing longer delay I declined, and fixed my departure for the following day.
Yélu*, the principal place of Déndina the country
* For the other places of Déndina, see Appendix V. Here I will only enumerate a few villages belonging to the districts which we passed on our road from Zogirma, and lying just in the border dis- trict of the Songhay and Hausa territories. Close to Juinju lie the following places, or rather hamlets, at present greatly reduced: Ka-
Q3
230 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
of the Déndi (a branch of the Songhay about whom I shall say more on another occasion), is situated only about seven or eight miles lower down this same valley, which joins the Great River at the town of Dédle, and which is especially inhabited by Songhay people. Their well-known and renowned chief, Gé- jida, had recently died, and had been succeeded by a younger brother of his, of the name of Gédu, who kept up the struggle against the conquering tribe with considerable energy, and probably, if he had
been better provided with cavalry, would have long ago’
established the independence of his countrymen, by driving away the Fulbe from the valley of Fdégha, and thus opening a free intercourse with the countries to the north. But the inhabitants of Kalliul, as I assured myself especially on my return journey, when I entered the town, are hardy warriors, and keep well together, although that little community is ruled by four petty chiefs, — Sefina, Mamma Yidi, and two brothers called Mamma Gtinga and A’medu Gunga. Even on the present occasion of my journey westward, these petty chiefs paid me a visit, and I made each of them asmall present; but none of them
rakara, ‘Abd el ‘Azi, Jabére, Bébé, Damana, Gangange. The fol- lowing places are said to lie along the dallul Fogha; but I am not able to indicate their situation more distinctly: Raima, Béngu, Band Harukari, Nyansamé, Kuduru, Gerganga and Ludu. There is no such town as “ Birni-n-Fogha,” Fogha being only the name of the valley; but not far from Kalliul there is another town called Baura. Most of the villages mentioned are inhabited by pagans.
— a a
Cuar. LIX. CHARACTER OF THE FO/GHA PEOPLE. Doll
was able to supply me with even the smallest pro- vision of corn, although they all evinced their bene- volent disposition, and Senina (who, by wearing a miserable sort of berntis of the poorest description, seemed to vindicate his superiority over his brother chiefs) made me a present of 100 Kola nuts, which luxury he could more easily spare than a few grains of corn. Mamma Yidi, on the other hand, an elderly gentleman, was distinguished by his amiable con- duct, and understood even a little Hausa. Generally speaking, none of the Fulbe here speak a single word of that language, the valley of égha forming the boundary between the Hausa and the Songhay lan- guages. I likewise received a visit from two sons of the kadhi or alkali, one of whom, of the name of ‘Abd el Wahabi, was a remarkably handsome man, of very gentlemanlike bearing, more like a European in his countenance than a native of Negroland, and of a melancholy turn of mind, which awakened my in- terest in him.
My two warlike companions from Zo- — qesday, girma, who, by their experience and ener- %™° Mth. getic conduct, had inspired me with almost un- bounded confidence, and whom I should have liked to have attached to me for a much longer period, had returned home the moment I reached the border of the valley, finding their only safety in speed and secrecy, and cutting straight across the thickest part of the forest; and, in consequence, I had used all my endeavours to obtain here another escort, but
Q 4
2392 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cap. LIX.
allin vain. However, Mamma Yidi having promised that a guide should overtake me on the road, I started tolerably early the next morning, in order to pursue my journey through this unsafe wilderness, being anxious not to cause more delay, and thus to increase the danger of my situation in consequence of the news of my proceedings having spread through the neighbourhood; but instead of making right across the country, I was first obliged to retrace my steps northwards, to the very place where I had crossed the valley two days previously, for, Kalliul being any- thing but a place of trade and commerce, all the little intercourse which is still going on in this region is carried on along the direct road, without touching at this place.
A few hundred yards higher up from this spot, a rich source of excellent fresh water gushes out from the rocky ground, and forms a large sheet in the bottom of the valley, affording a remarkable con- trast to the black muddy water which covers the remainder of the surface. Having taken in here a supply of water, we then passed several other salt- hamlets or sile-chodlli, and emerging from the valley ascended the higher ground, which presented open pastures with only a little underwood scattered in bushes here and there, principally the génda bush and the poisonous plant, damankadda, which I have already mentioned repeatedly as forming an orna- ment of the landscape, at the same time that it en- dangers the life of the camel.
ee eS ee a
Cuar. LIX: DENSE FOREST. 233
It was a beautiful morning, and the view over the valley from this undulating ground was highly in- teresting. We had just entered denser forest, when my friend Yidi overtook me, accompanied by two horsemen, and handing me, to my great surprise, be- sides a good provision of salt, 2000 kurdi, or shells, which I only reluctantly accepted for the sake of my servants. He also brought mea guide, who was to accompany me as far as Garbo. We therefore pur- sued our march cheerfully, but experienced repeated delays in the thick covert of the forest. The trees were rather dry, and not very luxuriant, no rain having fallen in this part of the country for some time. A little further on we passed a small pond, where we fell in with a party of Tawarek half-castes from Zaberma or Chéggazar, who were carrying the salt of Fégha to their home, on a small number of oxen and asses. We encamped at a quarter past three o’clock in the afternoon, near another small pond, on an open spot, where I again enjoyed an open encampment, which is the greatest charm of a travelling life.
Soon after starting, we had to descend weanesaay, a rocky passage, and we were glad to Jue loth find the road, from time to time, enlivened by small parties of travellers. First we fell in with a man of the name of Mohammed el Amin, from Hamed- Ahi, the capital of the western empire of the Fiulbe, who had come by way of Junju, and who, having cherished the good intention of performing the pilgrimage to
234 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
Mekka, had been frightened by the difficulties of the road ; and further on we met another party of tra- vellers, among whom was a Limtuni, that is to say, a Moor, aman of mixed Arab and Berber blood, of the ancient tribe of the Limttina—who, having once formed the chief portion of the powerful con- federation of the Merabetin (Almoravides), are at present scattered and settled, in small fragments, on the very shores of the Atlantic. He was a stout and active little fellow, with an open coun- tenance, and, being on his way to Mekka, rushed immediately towards me to salute me, asking me whether I was a Turk or a Christian. I presented him with a dollar, requesting him to give a short note (which I wrote on the spot) to my friend H4j Beshir, in Kukawa, wherein I informed him of my whereabouts. |
Having then passed several ponds, among which the tebki Sugindo was the most important, and made another rocky descent, from the top of which we over- looked the large valley or dallul of Béso, and having turned round a small rocky ridge, we reached the village of Garbo about two o’clock in the afternoon. Garbo is a small place, half deserted, and greatly ha- rassed by the enemy,—the Déndi of Tanda having made a foray against this place only two days pre- viously, and carried away almost all the cattle belong- ing to the inhabitants. But it is of importance, as being the last Hausa place in this direction, the re- gions to the west belonging exclusively to the Songhay
fir LIX: BO’SO.—GA’RBO.—LANADE’JL 935
and Filbe. A clay wall, which was to afford some protection to the town, had just been begun but left half finished. Numbers of corn-stacks inspired us with the hope that we might be able here to supply our- selves with corn; but not a grain was to be obtained. There was therefore no staying in this place, although our heavily laden camels were rather fatigued after the forced march through the wilderness.
- At a tolerably early hour we were again qnursaay, on the march through the fields, where the 7" \*™ fresh crops were just shooting up; but a little further on they had attained already to a greater height, and were just being cleared of weeds. Cattle also were not entirely wanting, and gave sufficient proof that, under a strong government, there were elements enough for the welfare of the people. The ground here is broken by several cavities or hollows, where ponds are formed, which of course vary in size ac- cording to the season. Some of them, although of considerable circumference, contained salt water of a blackish colour. Thus, having passed a fresh swampy depression, where dum and deléb palms also were not unfrequent, we reached, after a march of about seven miles, a farming village called Lanadéji, where the peculiar structure of the corn-stacks at- tracted my attention ; but, although built of clay, they are not pretty, and neither similar to the nobler style of those which we have found in the Musgu country, nor to those which we are to meet with further on, in the country of Masina. The whole cultivation consists
236 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap. LIX.
here of Negro millet, to the exclusion of rice and sorghum. Last year’s crop had here also been very scanty; and we endeavoured in vain to procure a supply. We had then to cross the bottom of the valley or rafi, which at present exhibited only sepa- rate sheets of water, while on my return journey the following year, later in the season, it was almost entirely inundated. But at a short distance beyond the hamlet, even at present, we crossed with some dif- ficulty an extensive swamp covered with rank grass.
We took up our quarters, after a march of about nine miles, in an open village situated on a rising ground, and overhanging a large sheet of water which is overgrown with reeds; it is called Songho-sare, meaning probably “the town of the Songhay,” but nevertheless a very remarkable name, as “sare” is not a Songhay, but a Mandingo word. Besides Songhay and Fiulbe, it was inhabited by serfs belonging to the people of Tamkala; and, being a farming village, it was full of corn-stacks. All the huts in these Son- ghay villages consist merely of reeds; and while they are less solid than the dwellings of Kebbi, which throughout are built with clay walls, they are better ventilated and have a less offensive smell. There was here a jovial old Pullo farmer, with a cheerful countenance and pleasing manners, of the name of Mammaga, who behaved very hospitably towards me, and, besides milk and corn, even made me a present of a sheep.
Cuar. LIX. SONGHAY FARMING-HAMLETS. IG
There had been a thunder-storm in the jrijaay, Nicht; but it was not accompanied with ’™"°'7" much rain, and the sky, not having been lightened by a discharge, was thickly overcast when we set out. An extensive tract of country consisting of sandy soil was here under cultivation, while the trees at first were very scanty; but gradually the country became more wooded, while considerable herds of cattle gave life to the landscape. After we had passed another pond of water, we halted for a few minutes to refresh ourselves near a herd of cattle, which was the property of a clan of Fulbe, called Danan-koye, the original inhabitants belonging to that part of the Songhay nation which are called Germabe; and proceeding through a more woody country with an undulating surface, we took up our quarters, at a very early hour, in another farming-village, called Tigére: for my camels were in want of rest, and I was too weak myself to resist the wishes of my servants. This village is exclusively inhabited by in- dependent farmers, although belonging to the native Songhay stock. The architecture of the place was en- tirely different from that of Songho-stre (which is more of a slave-village), consisting of very large court- yards, which evidently appeared intended for a rich supply of cattle, although at the present moment no cattle were to be seen in the neighbourhood ; and the huts themselves, although consisting entirely of reeds, were large and spacious. We had some dif-
938 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuav. LIX.
ficulty in obtaining quarters, as the mayor of the hamlet was by no means of a jovial or hospitable disposition, besides that the Songhay in general are among the most inhospitable people I ever met, and, in their present degraded political situation, are of a rather sullen character. Moreover, the inhabitants of this hamlet, just at that moment, were in a state of great excitement, as they had received the news that Daudu, the young rebellious chieftain of Zaberma, or Zerma, was about to attack A’bu’l Hassan, the governor of Tamkala, with a strong force; and this ray of hope, of once more making themselves inde- pendent of those foreign intruders who had conquered their country, could not fail at once to rouse the na- tional spirit of these people, who had formerly offered a long resistance to the Fulbe, and to render them indisposed to honour a stranger who was paying his court to those foreign rulers, and at present was under the protection of the chief of Gando. This report was the reason of my giving up my intended visit to the town of Tamkala, which lay a short distance out of our direct road to Say, towards the north, where we expected to find a supply of corn.
Saturday, On leaving Tigére, we passed by the well, June 18th. which presented a busy scene, numbers of women being engaged in drawing water. Although situated in a depression, It was twelve fathoms in depth. Further on we passed another well, which had even been surrounded by a strong fence, to pre- vent strangers from using it; and in the village of
Cuar. LIX. SHORT MARCHES. 239
Tihdére, which we reached after a march of about eight miles, the well, although situated at the foot of the hill, measured as much as twenty-five fathoms in depth. Owing to the weak condition of my camels, I was induced by my people to take up my quarters in this village; but I was heartily tired of these short marches, for the hut where I was lodged was in very bad condition, being extremely small and dirty, with no trees to afford a little shade during the hot hours of the day. Provisions also were here very scanty ; and it was with great difficulty that I obtained a small supply of corn for our horses. But I was so fortunate as to procure a little sour milk, there being a tolerably large herd of cattle belonging to Fulbe cattle-breeders, who inhabit a sort of suburb at the north-western end of the village. The whole neigh- bourhood was suffering from drought, as there had been no rain for the last eight days; nor did a thunder-storm, which in the afternoon gathered from the east, bring us a single drop.
The district also, through which lay the gunaay, first part of this day’s march, was extremely ?™ 19th. parched and suffering from want of rain, and in consequence of this drought, notwithstanding the advanced season, the ground hereabout had not yet been brought under cultivation; but after a march of a little more than three miles, through a country partly laid out in fields, partly covered with under- wood, we entered a district which had been more favoured with rain, and where the labours of the
240 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LIX.
field had begun. The people here make use of a hoe with a long handle, of a different shape from what I observed in other quarters.
Forest and cultivated ground then again succeeded each other alternately ; and having passed a farming- village of some extent called Tanna, we took up our quarters about four miles beyond, in a village called Téndifi, but were obliged to use force to obtain a hut for our use, as the head man of the village was too lazy, or too obstinate, to leave his cool shed in the heat of the day: probably here also the news of the proceedings of their countrymen in Zaberma kept the minds of the people in a state of excitement. The hamlet, which is rather a miserable one, has received its name from lying at the commencement of a rocky district, which extends from here to the river, a hill or mound being called “‘ téndi” in the Songhay language. We were now close to the Niger; and I was justified in indulging in the hope that I might the next day behold with my own eyes that great river of Western Africa, which has caused such intense curiosity in Europe, and the upper part of the large eastern branch of which I had ee dis- covered.
Monday, lated with such feelings, I set out the June 20th. next morning, at an early hour; and after a march of a little less than two hours, through a rocky wilderness covered with dense bushes, I ob- tained the first sight of the river, and in less than an hour more, during which I was in constant sight
‘,
Cab LIX: REACH THE NIGER. 941
of this noble spectacle, I reached the place of embark- ation, opposite the town of Say.
In a noble unbroken stream, though here, where it has become contracted, only about 700 yards broad, hemmed in on this side by a rocky bank of from twenty to thirty feet in elevation, the great river of Western Africa (whose name, under whatever form it may appear, whether Dhiuliba, Mayo, Eghirréu, I’sa, Kwara, or Baki-n-riiwa, means nothing but “the river,” and which therefore may well continue to be called the Niger) was gliding along, ina N.N.E. and §8.S8.W. direction, with a moderate current of about three miles an hour. On the flatter shore op-
posite, a large town was spreading out, the low
rampart and huts of which were picturesquely over- topped by numbers of slender dim palms.
This is the river-town, or “ford,” the name Say meaning, in this eastern dialect, “the river.” The Fulbe call it Ghutil, which name may originally have been applied to the ford at the island of Oitilli. The banks at present were not high; but the river, as it rises, approaches the very border of the rocky slope.
I had sent a messenger in advance, the preceding day, in order to have some large boats ready for me to cross the river. But no boat having arrived, I had plenty of leisure for contemplating the river scenery, which is represented in the plate opposite. There were a good number of passengers, I'uilbe and Son- ghay, with asses and pack-oxen, and there were some smaller boats in readiness suitable to their wants; but
VOL. IV. R
9492 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LIX:
at length the boats, or rather canoes, which were to carry me and my effects across, made their ap- pearance. They were of good size, about forty feet in length, and from four to five feet in width in the middle, consisting of two trunks of trees hollowed out, and sewn together in the centre. These boats are chiefly employed for conveying the corn from the town of Sinder, which lies higher up the river, to the town of Say; and they had beer expressly sent for by the “king of the waters,” or the inspector of the harbour, the “serki-n-jirgi,” or ‘ lamido-lala,” as he is called by the Fulbe, or “ hiyokoy,” according to his title in the Songhay language. The largest of them was able to carry three of my camels; and the water was kept out much better than I had ever yet found to be the case with the native craft of the inhabitants of Negroland.
My camels, horses, people, and luggage having crossed over without an accident, I myself followed, about one o’clock in the afternoon, filled with delight when floating on the waters of this celebrated stream the exploration of which had cost the sacrifice of so many noble lives. A little nearer the western bank, a short distance below the spot where the river is ge- nerally crossed, an isolated rock starts forth from the river, rising at this season from twelve to fifteen feet above the surface; and beyond there is a smaller one, which, as the river rises a little higher, becomes covered by the water. The sight of the river was the more momentous to me, as I was soon again to
Cap. LIX. 7 THE RIVER. 243
take leave of it ; for my former notion, that I should be able to reach Timbtktu only by way of Libtako, had been confirmed in Gando, and I only entertained a slight hope that perhaps on a future occasion I might visit that part of the river between Timbuktu and Say. From the very beginning I entertained strong doubts whether I should be able to reach the western coast; and it seemed to me more interesting to sur- vey the course of the Niger between the point where it has become tolerably well known by the labours of Mungo Park and Réné Caillié and the lower por- tion explored by the Landers, than to cross the whole extent of Central Africa.
Having presented myself at the governor’s house, I soon obtained quarters ; but they were not at all according to my fancy, being smalland narrow. The town, in its very low position, is not refreshed by a single current of air, and altogether has a very oppressive atmosphere. The huts in these Songhay places are made rather for women than for men, the greater part of each hut being occupied by the female apartment cr the alkilla, and the bedstead or serir, made of the branches of trees, being inclosed in a separate chamber of mats, and thus leaving only a very small entrance, and obstructing the whole in- terior of the dwelling. I have already had occasion, in describing the town of A’gades, to point out the care which the Songhay people bestow upon their matri- monial couches ; and I was obliged first of all to take down one of these small matting bed-rooms in order
R 2
244 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIX.
to obtain some little ventilation in my hut. At length I had made myself somewhat comfortable, when the governor sent two calabashes of rice in the husk, and two others of millet, but no refreshment for the mo- ment, though I stood very much in need of it, having been exposed to the sun during the hottest part of the day. To the master of the harbour, who had so opportunely supplied me with the large boats, I made a present of 1000 shells. Very little rain had fallen as yet in this neighbourhood ; and a thunder- storm which broke out in the afternoon did not reach us. Indeed the air in this low valley, which is pro- bably at a level of about 350 ft., was so oppressive, that I felt at times almost suffocated, and unable to breathe.
The following morning I took a ride round the place and its neighbourhood. The shape of the town is tolerably quadrangular, being encompassed on three sides by a low rampart of earth, the side to- wards the river being unprotected. It is of consider- able size, each side measuring about 1400 yards; but the town is only thinly inhabited, the dwellings (all of which except the house of the governor, consist of matting and reeds) lying scattered about like so many separate hamlets. It is intersected from north to south by a wide shallow depression or vale encom- passed by dum palms, which are almost the only trees either inside or outside the town; and at the end of the rainy season it becomes filled with water, causing great inconvenience to the business of the town and
Cuar. LIX. TOWN AND MARKET OF SAY. 245
the intercourse between the various quarters, and greatly contributing to its unhealthiness. There can be no doubt that, in seasons when the river reaches an unusual height, the whole town is under water, the inhabitants being obliged to seek safety beyond the borders of the valley.
_ There is a market held every day in the eastern part, not far from the bank of the river. Poor as it is, it is of some importance in the present state of the country: and hence the town has a great name as a market-place among the inhabitants of Western Sudan, a great many of whom here supply their want of native manufactures, especially of the common clothing for males and females, as the art of weav- ing and dyeing is greatly neglected in this quarter, cotton being cultivated only to a very small extent. But the place was most miserably supplied with provisions, there being no store of grain whatever. Everything necessary was brought day by day from the town called Sinder—the same place which I have mentioned as being situated about eighty miles higher up the river. I was greatly surprised at not finding here even a vestige of the cultivation of rice, although-a large tract of ground on this low island, which, towards the rainy season becomes partly in- undated, is particularly suited to that branch of cul- tivation. Not even onions are grown in the place ; but, fortunately, I had been informed of the circum- stance beforehand, and had provided myself with a : R 3
246 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. - Crap. Lie
large supply of this useful article in Gando, where the onions are excellent.
Being detained in this place longer than I wished, and feeling a little better, on the Thursday follow- ing I took a ride along the river to some distance below, where it takes a westerly bend, and I was astonished at the dry and barren aspect which this island bore, even here neither rice crops nor vegetables, as might be expected along the banks of so noble a river, being seen. The island, which during the highest level the river attains becomes almost in- undated, bore the aspect of a scorched treeless prairie ; and disappointed in my expectation of find- ing a cool shade, I returned into the town, being cheerfully saluted by all the people whom I met, the name of a mddibo or learned man, which preceded me, gaining me the favour of the inhabitants. While passing along the streets, I was delighted to observe a certain degree of industry displayed in small handi- crafts and in the character of the interior of the households.
Everything was very dear, but particularly butter, which was scarcely to be procured at all. All the currency of the market consists of shells; but I found the most profitable merchandise to be the black cloth for female apparel from Gando, which realized a profit of eighty per cent., while the Kand manufactures did not find a ready sale. ‘The black Nupe tobe, of common manufacture, bought in Gando for 3300 shells, here fetched 5000, while the black
4
Cuarp. LIX. STATE OF MARKET. —TRAFFIC. 247
zenne, manufactured in Gando itself, and bought there for 1050, sold here for 2000. Of course all depends, in this respect, upon the momentary state of the intercourse of this quarter with Hausa; and, at the present time almost ali communication with that manufacturing province being interrupted, it is easy to explain how an article produced in Gando could realize such a per-centage in a town at so short a distance from that place —a state of things which cannot form the general rule. At any rate for the English, or Europeans in general, Say is the most important place in all this tract of the river, if they ever succeed in crossing the rapids which obstruct the river above Rabba and especially between Busa and Yairi, and reaching this fine open sheet of water, the great highroad of Western Cen- tral Africa. The traffic of the natives along the river is not inconsiderable, although even this branch of industry has naturally suffered greatly from the re- bellious state of the adjacent provinces, more espe- cially those of Zabérma and Déndina; so that, at
present, boats did not go further down the river
than Kirotashi, an important place situated about fifteen miles lower down, on the western bank, while in the opposite direction, up the river, there was constant intercourse as far as Kindaji, with which place I made myself sufficiently acquainted on my return journey.
About noon the second day of my stay here, I paid a visit to the governor of the town. His name
R 4
248 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LIX,
is A’bi Bakr, the son of the far-famed mallem Mo- hammed Jébbo. I found him a tolerably cheerful person, although he is wanting in that manliness of character which makes a lasting impression, and he bore evident signs of having been born of a female slave, while his manners appeared to me to possess something approaching to a Jewish character. He, however, was delighted to see me, as I was not only the first Christian who had ever visited this place, which Mungo Park, on his ever-memorable journey, seems to have passed by entirely unnoticed, but especially as I had come at a time when the whole intercourse of the country had been interrupted, and Arabs as well as natives were all afraid of visiting it. Having heard of the great superiority of Euro-
peans over the Arabs, both in point of intelligence
and industry, he entertained an earnest wish, if it could be accomplished without detriment to the wel- fare of his province, that a vessel or steamer belonging to them might come and fill his poor market with luxuries; and it was with the utmost surprise that he learned that I did not trade. But, on the other hand, this led the governor to think that, in ex- posing myself to such great dangers, I could not but have a very mysterious object in view; and he soon became alarmed, and asked repeatedly why I did not proceed on my journey.
I had already been informed in Gando, that A’bu Bakr, two years previously, had navigated the river with a small flotilla of boats, upwards as far as Gagho
ee cate ee ay ey ee
Cuar. LIX. GOVERNOR OF SAY.—NEW COUNTRY. 249
or Gégé, the ancient capital of Songhay, and col- lected tribute from the Fulbe or Fellani settled near that place, but that he had been prevented by the threatening attitude of the Tawarek from penetrating any further. In consequence of this expedition on the river, made in open boats which were continually filling with water, the governor was suffering very severely from rheumatisin, and was scarcely able to move.
Having so many petty chiefs before me, and seeing that this officer did not possess much power, I did not choose to give him a large present; but on my return the following year, when [ still had some- thing left, I made him a more considerable present of a bernus.
Having entered a new country, where a language was spoken (the Songhay) with which neither I nor any of my servants was acquainted, and not being able to give much time to its study, as I had to apply myself to the Fulfuilde, the language of the conquer- ing tribe, I was extremely anxious to take into my service a native of the country, or to liberate a Songhay slave; but I did not succeed at this time, and, in consequence, felt not so much at home in my intercourse with the inhabitants of the country through which I had next to pass, as I had done for- merly. For Gurma, although originally inhabited by quite a distinct race, has been conquered and peopled by the Songhay to a great extent.
250
CHAP. 1X.
THE HILLY COUNTRY OF GURMA.
I now left the Great River behind me, which formed the limit between the tolerably known regions of Central Negroland and the totally unex- plored countries on the south-western side of its course; and with intense interest my thoughts were concentrated on the new region before me. However,
Friday, June 24th.
this very day we had a sufficient specimen of what awaited us on our march during the rainy season ; for we had scarcely left the low island behind us, on which the town of Say, this hotbed of fever, is situated (with its dry prairie ground almost destitute of verdure, and covered only with a few scattered specimens of the Asclepiadee), and had ascended the steep rocky bank which borders the west side of the narrow, shallow, and irregular western branch of the river, which, being encompassed by granite boulders, was at present dry, when a dark array of thunder-clouds came, as it were, marching upon us from the south-east, and we had scarcely time to prepare for the, serious assault, when a terrible thunder-storm broke out, beginning
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Cuar. LX. SAND-WIND AND THUNDER-STORM. 251
with a most fearful sand-wind, which enveloped the whole district in the darkness of night, and made pro- gress, for a moment, quite impossible. After a while it was followed by a violent rain, which relieved the sand-storm, but lasted for nearly three hours, filling our path with water to the depth of several inches, and soaking us through to the skin, so that our march could not fail to be very uncomfortable.
It was on this account that we took up our quarters about half an hour before noon in a farming- hamlet called Sanchérgu, where the people were busily employed in sowing; the plentiful rain of to- day, which was the first of the season, having rendered the fields fit for cultivation. After some search, we obtained two huts of round shape, which were situated near a sheep-pen in front of the dwelling of the proprietor. This was a cheerful and wealthy old man, who both lodged us comfortably, and treated us hospitably. While my people were drying their clothes and luggage, I roved about a little, and ob- served, at a short distance west from the hamlet, a small rocky watercourse with pools of stagnant water, where the women were washing their clothes, while the slaves were busy in the labours of the field.
Having rewarded our hospitable host, gaturday, we started at an early hour to pursue our Je 25th. march, in order to reach in time the residence of Galaijo, a distinguished chief, of whom I had heard a great many flattering reports. It was a fine morning after yesterday’s storm, and the country
252 4 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LX.
through which our march lay was hilly, and at. times presented very pleasant vales, or glens, but in general it was destitute of trees, and was only insufficiently inhabited and cultivated. The view which _pre- sented itself to us of the country before us, when, after a march of about three miles and a half, we reached the highest point, was that of an extensive wilderness, the few cultivated spots being entirely hidden in the midst of the forest. Red sandstone was apparently the chief component of this hilly country, with occasionally a black tint, received from exposure to the air, and rich in oxide of iron — in fact, of the same geological feature as the border country between Kebbi and Gdber. Short herbage was springing up here and there, affording but scanty food to the cattle that were grazing hereabouts.
A steep rocky declivity brought us from the higher level, which was covered with small stones, into a deep valley. But we had soon to ascend again, traversing a district which belonged to the village of Ndobtra and bore some signs of cultivation; and a dell, which we passed a little further on, was extremely picturesque. But the country hereabouts does not in general seem to be very fertile, and, be- sides, the exceptional drought of the present year had destroyed a large proportion of the crops; and it was this very unproductiveness that had induced the chief to leave his former place of residence, Shirgu, which lay a little more to the east, and to found a new dwelling-place further west.
Cuar. LX. TOWN OF CHAMPAGO’RE. he
This place, which is called Champagére, we reached at noon, but preferred taking up our quarters on a hill opposite the town, to the north, which was bounded on that side by a well-wooded dell, and overlooked the whole neighbourhood. The town itself is inclosed by a small hilly chain towards the south, at the foot of which are the wells, seven fathoms in depth. It was to have been surrounded by a clay wall; but, only provisionally, the four gates had been finished with clay, while the rest of the town was still inclosed by a stockade. The interior of the place looks very peculiar, and quite different from the style usual in Kebbi, which is chiefly owing to the remarkable character of the magazines of corn, which consist of towers or quadrangular buildings, raised
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a few feet above the ground, in order to protect them from the ants. They are from ten to fifteen feet in height, and about six feet in diameter, the walls gradually sloping inwards towards the top, as shown in the accompanying woodcut. They have no opening at the bottom, but only a windowlike
PAS TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
aperture near the top, through which the corn is taken in and out; and on the whole they are not unlike the dove-cots of Egypt. In every courtyard there were one or more of these magazines; and they far surpassed, in their whole appearance, the dwellings themselves, which, with a few exceptions, consisted of low huts, the whole of the courtyards being only surrounded by a frail fence, made of the stalks of the native corn, while, in many yards, one half of the circumference of the huts themselves, of which there were rarely more than two, formed part of the fence.
I went in the afternoon to pay my compliments to the chief. The portal of his residence has quite a
stately appearance, as shown in the accompanying woodcut, bearing evident testimony to an attempt at
Cuar. LX. MOHAMMED GALATJO. 255
architectural decoration ; but the spacious courtyard inside, which was inclosed by a low clay wall, full of rubbish and poor mean-looking huts, did not corre- spond with the stately character of the entrance. However, the dwelling itself, although simple, is not so mean, and, besides two spacious clay halls, includes some very airy and cool corridors built entirely of wood. Having been first received by Galaijo in one of the clay halls, I was conducted afterwards to a more private audience in one of these corridors; and here, while delivering my present*, I had a fair opportunity of surveying the exterior of this interesting man.
Mohammed Galaijo, at the time of my visit, was a man of about seventy years of age, of an extremely pleasant and almost European expression of coun- tenance, and of middle stature. He was dressed very simply, in a light-blue tobe, with a white shawl wound round his face. Galaijo, son of Hambodéjo, son of Pate, son of Hamed Yella, succeeded - his father — probably the very chief who treated Mungo Park so hospitably during his stay in Masina — in the year of the Hejra, 1231. He was then the most powerful chief of Masina, or Melle, which, since the overthrow of the Songhay empire by Mulay Hamed el Dhéhebi the emperor of Morocco, had been left to itself, and was consequently split into several petty kingdoms, the three other powerful
* The present consisted of a red cap, half a piece of muslin, and some smaller articles.
256 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LX.
chiefs of that country being the A’rdo Masina, the A’rdo Fittogel, and Gél Hamma Mana. But just at the time when Galaijo became ruler, the great religious movement of the Fulbe of Gdber began, under the Reformer “Othman, and, instigated by their example, and fired with religious zeal, a chief went forth from them, in order to spread Islam among that section of the Fulbe which was esta- blished along the upper course of the Niger. ‘This man was Mohammed or Hamed Lebbo, who, arriving in the country of Masina in the beginning of the year 1233 of the Hejra, at the head of a small band, formed first an alliance with Galaijo, who himself had embraced Islam; and, thus closely allied, they spread their conquests over the neighbouring country. But, after having succeeded in establishing a strong power, Mohammed. Lebbo demanded homage and allegiance from his ally Galaijo, under the pretext of his having brought the ensign, or tuta, of Isl4m from Sifawa, the place mentioned on a former occasion, where the Reformer ‘Othman dan Fddiye resided at the time, together with his brother “Abd Allaéhi. Upon this, Galaijo, feeling little inclined to cede the domi- nion of the country over which his claims had been established from ancient times, entered into a violent struggle with the new comer; but after an unsuc- cessful resistance, carried on for three years, he was obliged to give up his former residence, Konari, and, with the rest of his partisans, to seek a new home further eastward. Here he was received with open
Cuap. LX. SETTLEMENT IN GANDO. yA!
arms by the ruler of Gando, who was not at all pleased with the independent bearing of Lebbo and his son A’hmedu, by whom he was succeeded, —those people, being borne away by a pure reformatory view of their religion, and elated by their victory, going so far as to despatch a message to their kinsmen in Sdkoto and Gando, to the effect that, if they would not re- duce the number of their wives to two, and renounce their wide effeminate dress, they would pay them a hostile visit; and it is on this account that, even at the present time, there is no amicable relation what- ever subsisting between the courts of Sdkoto and Gando, on the one hand, and that of Hamda-Allahi on the other.
The chief of Gando, therefore, granted Galaijo an extensive although not very fertile district in his territories, where he has now been settled for almost thirty years. Thus we find, in this region, a small court of its own, and a whole community bearing no resemblance whatever to the customs of the people around them, but having faithfully preserved the manners and institutions of their native country, Masina; for, while all the neighbouring Fulbe are rather a slender race of men, with expressive and sharply-cut features, who make it a rule to dress in white colours, we find here quite the reverse —a set of sturdy men, with round open countenances, and long black curly hair, all uniformly clad in light-blue tobes, and almost all of them armed with muskets. I was utterly surprised at the noble bearing of several
VOL. IV. S
258 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LX.
of the courtiers, but especially that of the vizier and the commander-in-chief or lamido konno, both of whom reminded me of Europeans. The old chief, even at the present time, keeps up a continual intercourse with Timbuktu, where his eldest son was at the time studying, and which place he did not leave until some time after my arrival. Indeed the town of Kondari is still said to belong to Galaijo.
Taking into consideration the peculiar character of this little colony, and the benevolent disposition and venerable character of the chief in particular, I thought it worth my while to enter into more intimate re- lations with him, and in consequence, the following day, presented him with a helali bernus, which he admired very much, and was as grateful for as his reduced fortune allowed him to be; for, besides giving me a present of a heifer and a great number of fowls, he provided me also with corn, of which there was a great dearth in the place. The market was very small and insignificant, consisting merely of seven stalls, or shops, where scarcely a single sheep or ox was to be seen. The bitter species of ground- nuts, or gangala, and salt, formed almost the sole articles for sale. Butter and sour milk were plentiful.
The whole of this country belongs to Gurma—a name which, however, does not seem to owe its origin to the native inhabitants, but probably was given to it by the Songhay, who, while still settled on the north side of the river, applied this term to the region on the opposite or southern side, identical with the
Cuar. LX. THE GURMA AND SONGHAY. 259
name Ari-binda. The country, at least the northern portions of it, had gradually been conquered and colonised by the Songhay, who, as we shall see on my home journey, have preserved in this quarter a por- tion of their national strength and independence, while in the recent rising of the Fulbe the chief places along the high-road had been occupied by the latter; but after the first impulse of the religious movement had passed by, the settlements of this con- quering race had greatly decayed, so that the commu- nication along this important highroad from the west, at the period of my journey, was almost entirely in- terrupted, nay, the native independent chief of Béojjo had totally destroyed the considerable settlement of Martebégo which commanded the road ; for, from the very beginning the conquerors had only succeeded in establishing themselves along the high-road, leaving the independence of the chiefs in the interior almost undisturbed. The most powerful of these native chiefs of Gurma are those of Belanga, Bétu, Bosugu, Bédjjo, Machakwali, Nandau, and Maydnga.* Of these the chief of Belanga seems to be at present the most powerful, while next to him ranks that of Bdjjo; but in former times Bétu seems to have been the chief place in the country, which is the reason why it is still called by the Hausa people “ fada-n-Gurma,” “the palace or royal residence of Gurma.” The name
* For a list of the other places in Gurma, and some itineraries establishing their position, as well as the more important places in Mési, see Appendix V.
s 2
260 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LX.
Gurma however, as I have said, seems not to be the indigenous name either of the country or of the people, while the language of the natives bears a certain affinity to that of the neighbouring tribes, the Mési or More, and Tombo.
However, the original inhabitants of Gurma are not the only enemies of the Fulbe, but, besides the former, there are also the Songhay, who have emigrated into the country since the time of their predominance along the Niger; and some of these communities are the most inveterate enemies of the present conquerors, especially the inhabitants of Larba, or Laraba, a place which we had to pass on our further march. Besides the latter place, the most important settle- ments of the Songhay in this district are said to be the following: — Téra (the residence of Hamma- Kasa), Darghol, Garmtwa, Fambita, close to the river; and not far from it, to the west, Gari (pro- bably identical with the neighbouring town of Sinder of that name), Kasani, Kékoro, and Féni.* We shall come into contact with some of these Songhay set- tlements on our return journey along the Niger, and I shall then say more about them.
It was on account of the Larba that I was induced to remain a day longer at Champagére than had been originally my intention, the chief begging me most urgently to wait till some other people who were
* As smaller places of the Songhay in this district, the fol-
lowing were mentioned to me: Fonekéwa, Dibbilo, Léde, Damba, and Basi.
ge Oe ee ee ee ae
Cuar. LX. SONGHAY TOWNS.—TORRENT GO’REBI. 261
going to Yagha might join me; and while staying here, we were so fortunate as to have a tolerable shower of rain, which greatly refreshed this parched country and again raised the hopes of the inha- bitants. The whole depression between the hill on which we were encamped and the town became filled with water; and I was greatly delighted at the arrival of the proprietor of the farm where we had esta- blished ourselves, an energetic weather-beaten Pullo, who came to inspect the labours of the fields, and who was not a little surprised at finding us quietly established in his homely dwelling.
Our road lay through a hilly country, — quesaay, well wooded and intersected by a number 7° 78" of small watercourses; and in some favoured localities a good crop of corn was seen standing in the fields. Cattle also seemed not to be wanting, which accounted for the circumstance of the residence of Galaijo being so well provided with milk. We also met a great number of women on their way to the market of Champagére with their supplies of sour milk. But besides the small dry watercourses just mentioned, we had also to cross a very rapid torrent, which is called Gérebi, and is said to come from the direction of Kulféla, a very important market-place in the in- terior of Médsi, and which caused us considerable delay. Before we entered Champalawel, also, where we took up our quarters half an hour before noon, we had to cross a considerable sheet of water, three feet and a half in depth and about thirty yards
s 3
262 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Grav. Ee
broad, about the relation of which to the neighbouring watercourses I am not quite certain.
Champalawel is the residence of the governor of the Térobe; but it was at that time in the utmost state of decay and almost deserted, the slight remains of the ramparts being almost hidden in a dense forest ; for since the decease of Moazu (a celebrated chieftain mentioned also in other accounts), who died about twenty years ago, the power of the Fulbe in this place has greatly declined. The present governor, a younger brother of that energetic chieftain, him- self tolerably advanced in years, proved to be a very illiberal and unamiable man, and he would not even assign me quarters on my arrival; so that I had the greatest trouble in taking possession of a miser- able little hut on my own account, while good shelter was very essential, as a great quantity of rain fell in the afternoon. However, all was changed when, towards evening, a cousin of the present gover- nor, of the name of ‘Othman, arrived, and I then received a present of two sheep. I also had the great and unexpected pleasure of meeting here an Arab, of the name of Mohammed el Wakhshi, a near relative of my friend Bu-Bakr el Wakhshi, the Gha- damsi merchant whom I have mentioned repeatedly in the preceding part of my narrative. This man was then on his return from Gonja, the northern tributary province of Asanti, the Guro caravan having been induced, by the state of the country, to abandon its direct road from Yendi to Komba on the
Chap. LX. GU’RO CARAVAN. 263
Niger, in favour of a northerly and very circuitous road by way of Yagha.* But I was disappointed in the hope of corresponding with Europe by means of this man. The letter which I gave to him, and which I had already written in Say, never reached its desti- nation, for El Wakhshi succumbed to disease in cross- ing the province of Nupe in the height of the rainy season, before reaching Kand.
On leaving this desolate residence of the weanesaay, chief of the Térobe, reduced toan entangled 9 ?™° 79 thicket, we passed the encampment, or zango, of the Guro caravan, which, as is generally the case, con- sisted of small round huts, erected for the occasion with branches and rank grass, The caravan consisted of about one hundred individuals, with a couple of hundred of asses, which form the usual beasts of bur- den of these native travellers. Scarcely a mile beyond the town we had again to cross a river which, bordered
* The principal stations of this interesting route, at a very slow rate, are the following, starting from Yendi :—
1 day. Kana, still on the great high-road to Komba.
5 days. Natdngo, a village inhabited by Dagémba.
5 , Wolawola, a large place inhabited partly by pagans, partly by Mohammedans, and dependent on Yendi.
10 ,, Béri, a large place belonging to Mési.
3 ,, Another Mési place, the residence of a powerful officer of the chief of Woghodoghd, to whom these native travellers give the title of Yerima.
1 day. Sdalugu, a market-place, residence of a governor.
1 ,, SBeldssa, a large place of Mési, to be mentioned also in other itineraries.
7 days. Libtigu, a small Gurma village.
l day. Yagha.
s 4
264. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
by the richest vegetation, and by abundance of rank grass, runs at this spot from $.E. to N.W., with a depth of about three feet, and at times, when a great deal of rain has fallen, forming a far more considerable volume of water. | The country which we then entered was hilly, tolerably well cultivated, and thickly inhabited. It was adorned here and there with the baobab tree, and a fine leafy tree called here ‘‘hartna.” But we made only a short march, being induced, on ac- count of the danger of the road before us, to take up our quarters in a farming-village, situated in a very rich tract of country, behind a flat-topped cone, at the distance of a little more than four miles from Cham- palawel. Notwithstanding the fertility of the dis- trict, no corn was to be obtained here at present, the last year’s harvest having failed entirely, so that the people were obliged to supply their own wants at Bosebango. This scarcity is increased generally in districts where only one species of corn is grown, all the produce here being reduced to millet; while where various grains are raised, which ripen at differ- ent seasons, even in these countries, dearth cannot prevail to such an extent and for so long a time. All the inhabitants, including even the head man, be- longed to the native Gurma race. All the catile- breeding is in the hands of the Fulbe, who regard “the cow as the most useful animal in creation,” — ‘‘negge ngoomburi déya fé nafa;” and, there being no such people in the neighbourhood, no milk was to be
Cnar. LX. SMELTING-FURNACES. 265
obtained. The dwelling where I was lodged, with its numerous compartments and courtyards, pre- sented quite a labyrinth of itself. Three servants of Galaijo, all armed with muskets, had attached them- selves to my troop; and I supplied each of them here with ball cartridges, in case of any attack on the road.
We had a long day’s march before us, qhursaay, through the unsafe wilderness which sepa- %™°%t%- rates the reduced dominion of the chief of the Térobe from the territory of Yagha. It was a fine morning, and tolerably clear. Corn-fields now and then inter- rupted the dense growth of talha trees and prickly underwood, while occasionally a baobab or a tamarind tree gave greater variety to the scenery. About four miles and a half from our starting-point we passed, on the right of the path, some peculiarly constructed smelting-furnaces, about six feet high and a foot and a half in diameter at the base. The pro- ceeding is very simple and un- * sophisticated. On the ironstone is placed a large quantity of wood-ashes, till the metal begins to melt, and is then, by means of three channels at the bottom of the furnace, received in a basin.
Close behind these smelting-furnaces, which hap- pened to be the first I had seen in Negroland, though there are plenty of them in some districts, we passed the site of a former encampment, or zango, of native
266 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LX.
traders, or fataki, in a spot clothed with the finest Poa, and adorned with large wide-spreading trees. Ascend- ing then a little, we passed the village of Bangapélle on our left, situated at the eastern foot of an eminence, and then kept along the northern base of the latter, while on our right a dense forest spread out, broken by a rocky ridge. The whole wilderness through which our way led was in general very dry, and did not possess any fresh pasture-grounds, although about two miles beyond Bangapélle we passed a consider- able pond of water, with numerous traces of the elephant ; but gradually the country became more rocky, granite prevailing. We encamped, at length, on the site of a former hamlet, called Ké6fe, situated on a rising rocky ground, close to a depression, with water, and clothed with fine pasture interspersed with flowers, in whose sweet blossom: numerous butterflies were indulging. Here again the footprints of the elephant were extremely numerous ; but by far more interesting, and of much higher importance to me, were the traces of the rhinoceros, an animal which at present seems to be wanting entirely in the re- gions between the Niger on the west and the Shari towards the east. Our rest at this place was greatly disturbed ; for after an alarm in the evening, which, fortunately for us, proved to be false, we were kept awake the whole night by a terrible thunder-storm, which broke out with great violence, and rendered our situation in the midst of a low swampy ground very uncomfortable indeed.
Cuar. LX. .ELEPHANT TRACES.—BOSEBA’NGO. 267
In consequence of the storm, we started pyigay, rather late. Close behind our encampment 7" '*- we had to cross a very swampy ground, which we might have passed more easily the day before. We were therefore greatly cheered when the boggy ground was succeeded by sandy soil, which became intersected by several small watercourses, affording a channel to the watery element; but after a march of about six miles, it was again succeeded by a con- siderable pond, which we had to avoid by a long circuitous road. Here, also, the ground was marked by numerous footprints of the elephant, while mon- key-bread or baobab trees were in great abundance.
_ In the afternoon, the whole aspect of the country changed, the surface becoming rugged, and broken by small rocky ridges; and here the danger increased, on account of the vicinity of the town of Larba, the inhabitants of which, as I have mentioned before, are the inveterate enemies of the Fulbe. Only a few days before, they had robbed and murdered some people of the governor of the Torobe. But well- armed as we were, all the people round about being aware that an attack upon us would not be an easy affair, we proceeded without any accident; and having twice made a considerable descent, we reached, a little after three o’clock, the village of Bosebango, which is surrounded by a strong stockade. It is inhabited by the Kardbe, who, although kinsmen of the inhabi- tants of Larba, fear and respect in some degree the authority of the Fulbe: however, we soon convinced
268 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LX.
ourselves that the character of their allegiance is very precarious. The mayor of the village, being a man of advanced age, dressed in a ragged shirt, lodged me in his own quarters, which seemed to contain a very remarkable household, the most interesting ob- jects being his two wives, very stout females, richly ornamented with copper rings on their arms and legs, and with strings of beads round their necks, but having, besides, another ornament, at which I was more surprised, viz. a thin plate of tin in the under lip, like that worn by the Marghi; but I was asto- nished at not finding the nose-ring, which, from what I had heard, I had concluded that all the Songhay were in the habit of wearing. Altogether, these fashionably dressed women, with their dirty old part- ner, would have formed a highly interesting subject for illustrating the customs of these people.
Having rested awhile, for I felt greatly exhausted after my sickly state in Say, I roved a little about the place (which lies at the foot of a well-wooded emi- nence), and collected several specimens of minerals, which, in the course of my journey, were thrown away by my people. Gneiss and mica slate were pre- dominant, and beautiful varieties of granite occasion- ally appeared.
Having observed from this point that the river Sirba runs only at a short distance from the place, we endeavoured in the evening to arrange with the inhabitants to assist us in crossing this sheet of water, where there are no boats. While speaking with the
Cuap. LX. THE SI/RBA.—FRAIL RAFT. 269
natives about this river, | was surprised to hear from them that they consider the water unwholesome, and more particularly so for horses, while even the herb- age which grows close to the border is regarded as extremely deleterious to the cattle; but the people themselves supply their own wants entirely from the river. They do not carry the water in single pitchers on their heads, which is the general custom in Ne- eroland, but use a simple pair of yokes, from which a couple of nets are suspended, in each of which a pitcher is carried, in much the same way as in Germany.
The chief treated my party very hospitably. While in the neighbourhood of Bangapélle there seemed to be great scarcity of corn, here it appeared to be in abundance. We spent our evening comfortably, although it was necessary to take great care of the horses, as a number of horse-stealers were hovering about the place.
A few hundred yards beyond the village gatuaay, we came to the river Sirba, which here forms 9 %™Y 2=4- a bend from N.W. to N.E., between banks about twenty feet high, and caused us not a little anxiety, as it was nearly seventy yards wide, and not less than twelve feet in depth in the middle. We had, more- over, to cross it merely on bundles of reeds, which we had to tie together ourselves. At length, after much controversy, we succeeded in arranging with the natives, for 2000 shells, to assist us in crossing. While the large bundles which were to constitute our frail ferry were being tied together, the head man
270 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
of the village and a great number of the natives were sitting on the high banks of the river, which form a sort of amphitheatre, in order to enjoy the spectacle. There was something very peculiar about the inhabi- tants of this place. The men were formed into in- teresting groups, with features full of expression, but approaching somewhat to effeminacy, their hair being plaited in long tresses, which hung down over their cheeks, and in some cases reached their shoulders. Their dress consisted of short blue shirts, and long wide trowsers of the same colour. Almost all of them had small pipes in their mouths, which they smoked incessantly. The women were of rather short stature, and of not very symmetrical forms, with naked legs and breasts. Their necks and ears were richly ornamented with strings of beads; but they also were destitute of the nose-ring, which I had sup- posed common to this tribe.
The men were expert swimmers, and carried the small articles across the river in large calabashes; but we ourselves and the heavier luggage had to cross on the rafts of reeds, and in about two hours we succeeded in getting safely over the water with our whole troop. <A little after twelve o’clock we left the opposite bank, being joined by two horsemen of the Syllebawa, who at no great distance from this spot have a large settlement called Dutuwel; but we had great difficulty in making our way through the swampy plain, intersected by several small water- courses, which descended in deep ravines from a small
Cuar. LX. COUNTRY BEYOND THE RIVER. 271
rocky chain towards the north. After a march of about eight miles, we pitched our tents a little be- yond the site of a former encampment of the native traders, where the ground was tolerably free from trees; and I enjoyed our resting-place extremely, for, having been exposed to the sun during the heat of the day, I felt greatly fatigued.
We continued our march through the fo- — gunaay, rest, which here had a very fresh appearance, ?™Y ° and soon passed a cone on our right, on the offshoots of which, as would appear from the quantities of stones scattered about, a hamlet appears to have been situated in former times. Besides gneiss, large pieces of a fine species of marble were lying about in every direction. Rank grass, now and then adorned with blue Crucifere, filled up the intervals between the dense growth of trees (but there were none of large size, and less of the bush called “tsada” than I had seen the previous day), besides a few isolated monkey- bread trees. I observed, also, that the people were here digging up the same root which I had noticed on my journey to A’damawa. The footprints of the elephant and the buffalo were very numerous; and a little further on we fell in with a large herd of the latter species indulging in the luxuriant herbage of the pasture-grounds, which here grows without any use to man.
Having then gone round a considerable pond of water in the midst of the forest, we entered upon more undulating ground adorned with larger trees,
212 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
where, besides the monkey-bread tree, the dordwa was predominant; and a little beyond an eminence, at the foot of which the village of Bundére had been situ- ated in former times, we reached the modern village of that name, which is surrounded with a stockade. A dyeing-place, containing from eight to ten pits, be- sides a large basin for making up the mixture, pre- sented some signs of industry and civilisation; at a short distance from our quarters, also, a blacksmith was living. This village belongs to the territory of Yagha, and the huts presented a peculiar style of architecture, being built almost entirely of stalks and matting. The latter, which constitutes the walls, is plastered with clay, and reaches an altitude of nine feet. The roof is not formed of slender boughs and branches, but of large poles.
Not being able to obtain any corn that evening, I was obliged to stay here the following day. No mil- let is cultivated in this place, all the corn consisting of sorghum. ‘The people would not take anything but shells, and refused cotton strips. Sixty of the former bought a full measure of a common drinking- bowl, or “gerra,” of corn; and for 1500 shells we procured a lean sheep.
Tuesday, Lhe country which we traversed on leaving July oth. Bundére, was well adorned with trees, espe- cially the tamarind, and bore evident signs of exten- sive cultivation, even indigo and cotton being ob- served by the side of a pond; but the forest soon became so dense, that our progress was very diffi-
Guar. LX. BUNDO’/RE.—DENGA. PAP
cult, and the amiuda, a Lialiacea which I have men- tioned before, was so plentiful in some places, that it formed, as it were, a rich carpet, exhibiting quite an unwonted and cheerful aspect, for in general this quarter of Africa is rather poor in flowers. We had just passed a very dense jungle of tall reed-grass interspersed with blue and yellow flowers, when a thunder-storm which had hovered over us all the morning broke out, and soon changed the whole forest into one mighty sheet of water, when we had to cross three powerful torrents, all running towards the south-east, and probably discharging themselves into the Sirba.
Completely drenched, and almost swamped by the water, we reached the village of Denga, but had the greatest. difficulty in entering it, on account of the dense forest with which it was surrounded. At length we succeeded in penetrating this mass of thorny bushes, and, having obtained quarters, were able to dry our clothes; but the damp was excessive, and the second-best of my servants, the young Shiwa lad “Abd Allahi, was this very day attacked by the Guinea worm, which laid him up during the whole of the remainder of my journey, and at times rendered him the most disagreeable person in the world.
The hut which was assigned to myself was well built ; but it was so completely obstructed by numbers of corn jars of clay,.that scarcely any room was left for my own use. Our diet, however, was not so bad, and besides sour milk, which constitutes one of the
VOL. IV. ay
274 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
most wholesome articles of food for a European tra- veller in these regions during the rainy season, we obtained also a couple of fowls. Wednesday, Our road, on leaving Denga, led through July 6th. underwood, which was gradually succeeded by dense forest, the view being bounded towards the right by heights. Among the trees of the forest, there was soon conspicuous that large beautiful tree, a species of acacia, which the inhabitants of Shawi and Makari call korgam, and from which they build most of their boats, while a kind of vegetable butter is made from itscore. It grew here to an altitude of cer- tainly not less than eighty feet, with a wide-spreading crown, but not very dense foliage. It is here called “mur,” at least by the Arabs; its native Songhay name I did not learn till some time subsequently. Amongst the underwood, the most distinguished was the bush here called “ kirche,” with its small, white, edible fruit, which is extremely pleasant when taken in small quantities, but, from its very sweet taste, soon becomes unpalatable; there was, besides, the “ mekhet,” as it is called by the Arabs, the fruit of which is much liked by the natives, but it was not yet ripe. The wilderness was interrupted by a village of considerable size, called Gongungo, sur- rounded by a living fence of bushes, and exhibiting a good deal of cultivation, principally Zea Mais, while a single dim palm attracted our attention. Here the sun broke through the clouds, spreading life over, and enhancing the cheerful aspect of, the landscape.
Cuar. LX. SEBBA, CAPITAL OF YA’GHA. 275
Forest again succeeded, intersected by a small rivulet which had inundated the district to some ex- tent; and about two miles beyond Gongungo we had to cross swampy meadow grounds, where my Hausa Pullo, a native of Zabérma, whom I had taken into my service in Champagore, called my attention to a plant named here ‘“ yangara-bubiki,” which is said to keep flies from open wounds, espe- cially from those of the camel; it probably contains a sort of slight poison. Having crossed a short tract of rugged ground, where granite, gneiss, and sand- stone protruded through the surface, we entered a more populous district, with several villages right and left, but presenting great difficulties to the pas- sage of the camels, as it consisted of red clay, soaked with water, which formed several large ponds, and, being recently traversed by a numerous herd of cattle, was extremely muddy.
Thus leaving two villages on one side, we reached, a little before noon, the clay wall of the town of Sebba, which, though the residence of the lord of Yagha, has nothing in its appearance to indicate the capital of even a small province. The governor was sitting in front of his house, close to the mosque, in the midst of a large congregation of people, and was reading and interpreting to them some passages from the Kuran. Having sent two of my servants in ad- vance, I soon obtained quarters, and was lodged in an excellent hut, which I shall here describe.
The hut measured about twenty feet in diameter,
T 2
276 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LX.
the walls being ten feet high to the beginning of the roof, but consisting merely of matting, which was coated with clay. The roof was supported by a pole in the middle. The hut was full of larger or smaller vessels of clay, and was apparently intended for a considerable household. The woodcut below will give a full idea of the comfort which an African household in this region possesses.
1. Joddrde, a clay seat of semicircular shape, raised about a foot, on each side of
the door.
2. Lyggere, two round shallow holes in the floor, measuring about eight inches
in diameter, to place the dishes during dinner,in order to prevent them
from being upset.
. Kosoéndi, a half-oval-shaped place, surrounded by a slight clay rampart,
about two and a half feet high, for containing luggage, &c.
Hurgal, a sort of clay bank, about six feet in length, and about a foot in
height, and rather narrow.
. Three “benbel,” or large-sized clay jars, for containing corn.
. Six smaller “ benbel,” called “ mabbirgel benbel.”
. Hobinirde, the cooking-place, consisting of four stones, or rather clay mounds, protected against any gust of wind by aslight wall towards the side of the door, while its privacy is already sufficiently guaranteed by the large clay jars.
8. Two movable seats, or joddrde, one of round, the other of an oblong shape,
both made of wood.
9. Kekimakka, or middle pote, for supporting the roof of the hut.
NID oo -
Besides the immovable articles, if we exclude the two smaller seats of wood which were movable, only very few utensils had been left in the hut by the
‘f <3 ’ :
, \ ia E aT : ; .
le “iy. -* = in ey
Crar. LX. DESCRIPTION OF HUTS. 212
industrious landlady, the couch and even the dishes having been taken away. But suspended from the roof was the “ pilgure,” or basket for smaller lug- gage, which contained at the time, besides the komcha, the pittdrke, or small stick for weaving, and the fabaru, a small leather portfolio for writing. The accom- panying view, though it exhibits the hut rather in an inverted manner, will give the reader a fair idea of its character.
The clay being excellently polished, and the hut of recent construction, left a very pleasant impres- sion; but, as is so often the case in human life, all this finery. covered nothing but misery, and [ dis- covered the next day, to my utter amazement, that this beautiful hut was one entire nest of ants, which had in one day made great havoc with the whole of my luggage.
E3
278 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
In the afternoon I went to pay my respects to the governor, who is not without power, so that I thought it better to sacrifice to him a bernus of in- ferior quality, besides some smaller articles. He was a fine-grown man, with large features, which at once indicated his origin from the black stock of the Fulbe or the Térobe. - Sitting at the door of his palace, he received me kindly, and promised me that I should have no difficulty in my further progress. Consider- ing the scarcity of provisions, he treated me hospi- tably on the whole, sending me the next day a young heifer, besides a great many dishes of prepared food.
The name of the principality is Yagha*, dating from the time which preceded the conquest of the Fulbe; but the governor’s private name is Sajo ben Ibrahima.
Notwithstanding the power of the ruler, the place is in a miserable condition, and resembles rather a wilderness than a town; but it is extremely pic- turesque, having a thick covert of beautiful trees nourished by a large sheet of water. The place con- tains scarcely 200 huts, and nothing like a market is to be found. The difficulty of our obtaining sup- plies was the greater, as, contrary to our expectation and the information we had received, nothing but shells had currency in the place; and it was with a
* The places belonging to the province of Yagha are the fol- lowing: Denga, Gongtingo, Gesangu, Sinsirga, Nétu, Dori (sur- named Dembini, in order to distinguish it from Dori or Dore in
Libtéko), Sebba, Namantigu, Kankanfogu, Héga, Humore, Kabo.
Cuap. LX. ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS.—HOLIDAY. 279
great deal of trouble that, by means of the cotton strips with which we had provided ourselves, we obtained a small supply of butter and corn, four dra being reckoned here the same as in Gando, while in the town of Say there was thirty per cent profit upon the cotton strips. The most abundant article I found here was milk, which was the best I had ever yet tasted in Negroland; and it gave me a fair but rather exaggerated idea of what I might ex- pect to find amongst the Fulbe further west. We also bought a small quantity of corn from the women, in exchange for some looking-glasses and cloves. All the corn here consists of sorghum; and seventy shells, at the time, would just buy sufficient corn for a horse for one day, which is a very high price indeed for Negroland.
Notwithstanding the poor character of the place, I was obliged to stay here two whole days, exclusive of the day of my arrival, in order to give the camels some rest, as they were suffering greatly from the effects of the rainy season, and on account of the holiday of the “fotr,’ which fell on the 8th. If I had known the character of the province of Lib- tako better, I should have deemed it prudent to make even a longer stay here: and I would advise any future traveller to do so, taking care, however, to have a sufficient supply of shells with him, which will enable him to make himself quite comfortable in Yagha.
Music having announced the arrival of the important
Tt 4
280 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LX.
and joyful day, soon after midnight, almost the whole of the men went out in the morning in order to say their prayers at about a mile’s distance from the town. All the Fulbe were dressed in snow-white shirts, as a symbol of the purity of their creed; but some of them wore dark-blue trousers. There were about forty horses with the party, which probably was all that. the townspeople could muster.
Having had to sustain here a slight religious attack from the kadhi, who wanted to represent me as a sorcerer, | thought it prudent to make a small pre- sent to each of the holiday people, as a kind of séddega, or alms. The holiday also disturbed me in compiling a small vocabulary of the Gurma lan- guage, called by the Fulbe Gurman-kdébe, which I had begun, but was obliged to leave unfinished.
281
CHAP. LXI.
PROVINCE OF LIBTAKO.—SOUTH-EASTERN LIMIT OF THE RANGE OF THE COMMERCE OF TIMBUKTU.
We left Sebba the capital of the wilderness— gaturday, birni-n-daji, as I called it, —passing through a 7" *” district where forest and cultivated ground alternated. The slaves were busy in the fields rooting up the weeds from among the crops; but, after a march of about four miles, we had to cross a very considerable water, which is here called Yali, and about whose course I am not able to give distinct information. It is said to come from Mési, and to join the river Sirba not far from Bosebéngo; but the latter state- ment is incredible. The water being not less than four feet and a half in depth, with a breadth of at least four hundred yards, most of our luggage became wetted.
The country then assumed a more rocky appearance — mica slate, granite, and gneiss alternating, the granite sometimes appearing in large boulders. The vegetation also assumed here a more varied aspect, besides tamarind trees, madachi and kadé predomi-
282 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXI.
nating ; and altogether the forest exhibited a fresh and pleasant character, especially as the sun had at length broken through the clouds which had obscured its rays during the first part of the day. After a march altogether of about eleven miles, we reached the village of Namantugu, which still belongs to the province of Yagha, the mayor of which we had met a short time before, on the road, as he was going to look after his cattle.
The village is of some importance, and consists of several groups which cover an extensive tract of ground, lying straggling about in the fields; but the huts themselves are very narrow, and the one which was assigned to myself was so small that there was scarcely room to breathe. Nothing is more unhealthy for a European than these abodes of stench and filth ; but during the rainy season he is often obliged to seek shelter in these dirty dwellings, especially if he has valuable property in his possession.
Namanttiigu, which seems to have been of con- siderable importance in the history of the ‘Songhay empire*, was a rather eventful place for my whole subsequent proceedings, as I here met an ‘Arab from the west, in whose company I was safely to enter the town of Timbuktu. He called himself Sheikho, though this was not originally his proper name; and, in order not to cause any mistake, I will in future call him (from his father and the name of his birthplace) Weled A’mmer Walati. He was
* See the Chronological Tables at the end of this volume.
ae eee Te ae ee
Air ke a
‘oe my
Cuar. LXI. THE ARAB FROM THE WEST. 283
certainly a very remarkable fellow; and I shall have frequent occasion, in the further course of my journey, to advert to his doings. Being originally a native of Waldta, he had emigrated to Timbuktu, whence he had roved about a great deal among the Tawarek as well as among the Fulbe, and was at present on his way from Belanga, the residence of one of the principal chiefs of Gurma. He had a good quantity of the broad gabaga, or cotton strips, of Mési with him, which form the staple currency in the whole tract of country from Libtako to Timbuktu, ten dra being reckoned equal to one hundred shells. Besides Arabic, he spoke Fulftilde, Songhay, Mési, and Bambara fluently, and Temashight, or the lan- guage of the Tawarek, almost as well, and altogether was one of the cleverest men whom I met on my journey, in spite of the trouble he caused me and the tricks he played me. He was a handsome man, of middle size and of rather slender growth, and with very fine expressive features. His dress consisted of a long black gown, with a black shawl wound round his head ; and his whole appearance, as he was moving along at a solemn thoughtful pace, frequently re- minded me of the servants of the Inquisition. How- ever, his real character at the time of our first meet- ing was, of course, unknown to me, and I was delighted at having found such a man, as he held out to me the fairest prospects of reaching Timbuktu. But although I convinced myself that this man would be of great service to me, yet I did not make a bargain with him
984 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Guar. IESE
immediately, but we agreed that I should arrange with him in Dére, when he would be able to settle his own. business. | The village of Namantugu is almost exclusively inhabited by Fulbe, all of whom were clad in the purest white, even the little children wearing round their heads a large turban of white cotton strips; but this was, perhaps, in consequence of their festival having been held the previous day. A great deal of rain had fallen hereabouts; and cotton appeared to be cultivated to a considerable extent. ee Our road, on leaving Namanttigu, led July 10th. through a deep clayey soil covered with rank vegetation, which was only now and then inter- rupted by a little cultivation. A wealthy family of Fulbe, father, mother, son, and daughter, all mounted on horseback, and accompanied by servants and by a numerous herd of cattle, were pursuing the same path; and their company was rather agreeable to us, as, after a march of about five miles, we had to cross a large sheet of water in the midst of the forest, through which they showed us the way. It is de- lightful for a traveller to meet with these nomadic settlers, after the disgust he has felt at the degraded character of their countrymen in Wurno. We had here entered a region full of water, the soil presenting very little inclination to afford it the means of flowing off. Further on also, where we passed the site of a former dwelling-place, we had to cross several channels of running water, and encamped at length, after a march
Cuar. LXI. NAMANTU‘GU.—TUMPE’NGA. 285
of about seventeen miles, in the midst of the forest, close beyond another watercourse; for we were not aware that about two miles further on there was a far more favourable place for encamping, viz. the site of the former town of Tumpénga.
The site of this place we passed early the next morning. Before the time of the rising of the Jihadi, the town had been inhabited by Fulbe and pagans indiscriminately, when, owing to the religious fer- ment caused by that reformer, a bloody feud broke out between the Mohammedan and pagan inhabit- ants. The latter were vanquished, and fled to Naba, the powerful Gurma domain at some distance towards the south, while the former founded the town of Dore. Two dyeing-places bore testimony to the fact that a certain degree of industry had formerly prevailed in this place, which, like so many other human abodes in Christian and Mohammedan countries, has been re- duced to desolation in consequence of religious disputes.
Beyond this place granite protruded in large boulders, while monkey-bread trees were in great abundance; but gradually the country became more open, the trees being scanty and the soil hard and barren. This did not, however, last long, and further on we had to cross a considerable sheet of water surrounded by fine pasture-grounds; then followed another very barren and open tract, till, after a march of almost twenty miles, we reached the village of Koria, situated beyond a broad sandy watercourse at present dry. The scarcity of herbage was here so
286 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXI.
great that I was obliged to send two of my people back to a considerable distance in order to procure a little grass for the horses. The head man of the village received us very inhospitably, refusing us quarters in such a peremptory manner, that it was only by force I could procure an open yard where to pitch my tent. However, he soon changed his behaviour entirely. It so happened that a thunder-storm, with the blackest clouds, which in the opinion of every one portended a heavy fall of rain, twice passed over our heads without bringing these famished people a single drop; whereupon all of them assured the in- hospitable mayor that it was a divine punishment for his niggardly and unrighteous conduct towards me. Frightened, therefore, by such signs, he carried his hospitality so far as even to make me a present of a young heifer. But the first advances towards a friendly intercourse were made by an old woman, the mistress of the piece of ground where we had encamped,—she bringing me, as a token of good- will, a dish of well-cooked paste, which probably con- stituted her whole supper.
Considering the parched character of the whole neighbourhood, I was surprised to find a few dum palms at the border of the channel, while the whole neighbourhood was almost destitute of trees.
Tuesday, ‘4 Short march of a little less than six miles, July 12. in company with the son of the old governor, brought us from here to Dére. The country through which we passed bore at the time the character of
Cuar. LXI. DO’RE, CAPITAL OF LIBTA’KO. 287
extreme drought and barrenness; and numerous flocks of gazelles (quite an unusual aspect to me in the populous districts of Negroland through which I had passed) were roving about over this immense plain, which was scarcely broken by a single tree, with the exception of a few stunted monkey-bread trees. In the distance, towards the south, two small eminences bounded the horizon.
The remnant of a large herd of cattle, in a most emaciated condition, was scattered in the barren fields, licking the soil, which is here full of natron. The seed had already been sown, but the crops had scarcely started forth from the ground, and were languishing for want of rain. Huts were occasionally seen for the first mile or two, but being exposed to
the full force of the sun, without affording the least
shade, they presented rather a dismal aspect. But this immense plain, which at the present season was only very slightly broken, about halfway, by a shallow strip of green bordered by projecting granite boulders, supplies abundant food for a fine breed of horses, for which Libtako is remarkable.
Dore is the chief place of the province of Libtako ; but its appearance caused us the utmost disap- pointment, presenting, as it did, unmistakable signs of misery and decay, the wall by which it had been formerly surrounded being nothing but a disgusting heap of rubbish, while the whole place exhibited the utmost neglect. But, through the kind interference of a messenger of Galaijo, who was most opportunely
288 ' TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXI.
here at the time, I was lodged in an excellent and spacious hut, measuring probably not less than thirty- five feet in diameter, and presenting a remarkable contrast to the little dirty nook which formed my quarters in Namantuigu. The place is said to abound in thieves, which is not astonishing, as it 1s not only the rendezvous for all the natives from the different tribes which dwell in the immediate neighbourhood, but even several Bérnu people have settled here since the inroad of Waday.
Dore is principally a great place of resort for the Arabs of A’zawad, the district to the north of Tim- buktu, who bring to this market the salt of Taddénni in great quantities, and occasionally even reside here for a long time; but they generally come direct from A’zawad without touching at Timbuktu, proceeding by way of Gagho (the ancient capital of the Songhay empire, and once the great gold-market of the western part of Negroland), or, still more direct, by Tosaye, the point where the river greatly contracts, before it changes from an easterly to a south-easterly course. Some of them are very wealthy people,—one individual having as many as forty camels with him. Among other important information, I received from them the news that Hamed Weled Habib, the sheikh of A’rawan, who, from the account of Caillié*, is gene- rally regarded in Europe as the chief murderer of Major Laing, had died a short time before, after a reign of nearly forty years; and I regarded this piece
* Caillie, “ Travels to Timbuctoo,” vol. ii. p. 82. (Engl. version.)
Cnap. LXI. MARKET OF DO’RE. 289
of news as a very auspicious omen for the success of my undertaking.
These Arabs left on the 17th,—a circumstance not quite indifferent to me, as I was led to expect that they might carry the news of my arrival, not only into the heart of the desert, but also to Timbuktu, and thus augment the difficulties of my journey. There were, however, also a good many individuals who wanted to pass themselves off for Arabs with-— out having any claim to such a descent. Besides the Arabs, the Wangarawa, or Eastern Mandingoes, especially from Minidna and Wassulo, the inhabi- tants of Médsi, and the people of Gad, Gagho, or Gégé, frequent this market-place in considerable numbers ; and it is principally the Wangarawa who impart to this town its importance, supplying 1t with a small quantity of white Kéla nuts, for which the consump- tion here seems not to be very great, besides woda (shells), or ‘“‘chéde,” as the Fulbe call them, which are evidently imported from the coast of Sierra Leone, or, more probably, from the river Nunez*, but they were entirely wanting at the time. ‘The people of Mési bring chiefly their fine donkeys, which are greatly sought after; and a numerous body of
people of the sheikh A’hmedu, of Hamda-Alléhi, had
* I may as well state in this place, that, both in Ddre and in Timbuktu, bargains are made according to the full hundred, or the miye sala-miye, while in all the markets of Bambara a fictitious hundred, the miye ajemiye, being in reality eighty, forms the standard.
VOR., IV. Ui
290 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXI.
left a few days before with a number of asses which they had bought here. Besides asses, the people of Mési supply this market with gabaga, or “ tari,” as the Arabs near Timbuktu call them, cotton being extremely cheap in their country, so that in the great market-places of that country, especially in Kulféla, an indigo-coloured shirt is not worth more than from 700 to 800 shells.
The inhabitants of the ancient capital of the Son- ghay empire, and the people thereabouts, on the banks of the Niger, bring chiefly butter and corn to market; and it was highly interesting to me to be here brought into direct communication with that place, which, although once the most celebrated and renowned in all Negroland, yet has become so completely obliterated, that its geographical position has given rise to the most contrary opinions among the learned geographers of our age.
Shells formed the currency of the market, and these it was very difficult to obtain. In order to supply my wants I was obliged to sell my turkedis for 2500 to 3000 shells each, while in the town of Say they had realised 4000, and, as I afterwards found, fetched the same price in Timbuktu. Some- times I was not able to dispose either of my turkedis or my tobes, even at the lowest price; while others, that I had at length succeeded in selling, were re- turned to me as defective. I was at considerable ex- pense for my large household, my three horses alone (‘Ali providing for the other two) costing me every
Cuar. LXI. DESCRIPTION OF MARKET CONTINUED. 291
day 400 shells for the corn with which I was forced to feed them exclusively.
Almost all the corn which is brought into the market consists of Negro millet, or Pennisetum ty- phoideum, while Indian millet, or sorghum, is found only in very small quantities; and I was repeatedly prevented from buying, because I was not possessed of what the people wanted. Thus when, on the 13th, a caravan of Tawarek serfs, with oxen, arrived bring- ing corn from Gég6, they refused to accept any- thing I could offer them, viz. shirts, zenne, and gabaga; and the day before I started there was no corn at all to be got, as no Tarki had arrived. Not the smallest particle of rice was to be obtained ; and I could not but deem myself fortunate in being able to procure a small supply of vegetable paste of do- déwa, which made my food of millet a little more en- durable. This formed my usual supper. In the morning I usually breakfasted on tiggera, or cold paste, with sour milk; the latter being excellent and very cheap, and almost the only article which was to be found in abundance.
But, besides the great difficulty I had in supplying my wants during my residence in the place, I had still more trouble in obtaining the currency of the coun- try through which I had to pass on my journey to Timbuktu; this is the “farawel,” or “feruwdl,” as it is called by the Arabs, a long narrow strip of cotton cloth sewn together from a number of pieces, and
supposed to measure thirty-two dra, though in reality U 2
292 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. LXI.
the measure does not exceed thirty. The price of each feruwal is generally three hundred shells; but during my stay it rose to four hundred.
The market is held on the border of the village, on the bleak open ground which extends to the south; but there were very rarely more than 500 people, and in general scarcely as many as two hun- dred, assembled. But it is not to be denied that, taking into account the manner of living in these regions, a good deal of business is transacted in this place; and, on account of the many strangers who visit it, ready-cooked pudding, tiggera, and sour milk are offered for sale throughout the whole day. Besides salt, cotton strips, dyed cloth, Kdla nuts, corn, and asses, some copper manufactured chiefly into large drinking-vessels is also brought into the market by the people of Mdsi. However, I do not think they manufacture the copper vessels themselves, but bring them from Asanti. Copper is worn by the inhabi- tants, by way of ornament, to a large extent; and I was greatly amused on observing that some of the young girls wore in the long plaits of their hair a very remarkable ornament made of that metal, repre- senting a warrior on horseback with a drawn sword in his hand and a pipe in his mouth; for, with the Songhay people, smoking, although forbidden by the present ruler of the western part of the former terri- tory of their empire, the fanatical prince of Hamda- Allahi, is, next to dancing, the chief enjoyment of their existence. Whether these small horsemen worn
Cuar. LXI. DROUGHT. -—— ANARCHY. 293
in the hair of the young damsels form an ornament without meaning, or are intended as auspicious omens as to their future husbands, I cannot say; and I must apologise to the reader for not being able, in this part of my journey, which was more beset by dangers, to enter fully into the private life of the people.
Altogether, Dore, or as it is generally called, by the name of the whole province, Libtako, appeared to me an extremely dry and uncomfortable place. How- ever, this seemed to be rather exceptional, owing to the extraordinary drought prevailing that year; and it was not until the evening of the 17th of this month (July), that we had a moderate fall of rain, when nature as well as man appeared a little refreshed. The name which the Tawarek, as well as the Arabs of A’zawad, give to this place, namely Wéndu, or Winde, seems to imply quite another character, as the word means pond or lake; but, in reality, a very extensive sheet of water is annually formed close to the western side of the town, although during my stay the extensive depression was dry; and I even have ground to suppose that this sheet of water is very often, through a very considerable backwater, directly connected with the Niger.
The political state of the country, however, was at the present moment worse than its material con- dition. The disorder and anarchy were such as to make it appear as if there were no government at all.
There were so many different factions that one pa- U 3 :
294 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXI.
ralysed the other, and there is no doubt that the present misery was the immediate consequence of such a state of anarchy. There was a titular go- vernor of the place called I’brahima; but his mild disposition and his advanced age had left him scarcely any power at all, and I had to make my peace with all parties as well as I could. The most energetic and influential amongst the aspirants to power seemed to be a relative of the governor, of the name of Hamed ‘Aisa. Then there was an elder but weaker brother of his, of the name of Bélko, and, further, a man of the name of El Jelddi, who troubled me greatly, begging me to write him a charm, by the secret influence of which I might procure him the government of the place.
Libtako is situated between many different tribes, with the seats of the Tawdarek close to the north, from whence these restless people are continually pushing on ; and this situation necessarily imbues the inhabitants with a warlike spirit. In former times, especially, they were renowned for their valour, and distinguished, moreover, by the breed of their horses, but at the present moment, owing to the severe drought which had prevailed for so long a time, all the horses had been sent to a great distance, where they were likely to find better pastures. At present, there being so many factions and no strong government what- ever, and the supremacy exercised by their liege lord in Gando being a perfect nullity, no certain line of policy can be pursued, and they are one day on good
Cuar. LXI. POLITICAL SITUATION. —DELAY. 295
terms with the Tawdarek, while the next day some serious fighting takes place; and thus it happened that on the 16th a party of these people, who supplied the market with the article which all the people were in want of, were plundered of the whole of their pro- perty. Even with the inhabitants of the province of Yagha, so nearly related to themselves by origin and interest, there were serious dissensions; and during my stay in the place, the latter drove away all the cattle belonging to the village of Koéria. The pro- vince comprises a considerable number of villages*, and, if well governed, would be of great importance, especially as forming the western province of the empire of Gando where it borders upon that of Ma- sina, or Hamda-Allahi.
I was peculiarly situated with regard to my new companion El Walati, who was the sole reason of my making so long a stay in this place, while my - exhausted camels, instead of having, as it was as- serted, a fair opportunity of recruiting their strength for the remainder of the journey, were growing weaker every day from want of good feeding. The
* The names of the small towns and villages forming this pro- vince are as follows: Dore, Kéria, Katinga, Wéndu, Dani, Dan- gadé, Sélgo, Jamga, M4mmashé, Bafadé, Pékul, Bamde, Babirke, Torddi, Pulé, Gambeti, Bedingel, three villages of the name of Debére, Bamura, Fadambaka, Gébu, K6éla, Bombtifa, Ka4cheré, Kénde, Lérbu, Buré, Benbenjango, Kollangel-pattidé, Nélba, Be- resango, Filgu, Billi, Chompangu (probably identical with Kam- pangu), U’regdudi, Gurmare, U’relang4wu, Taka, Kilinke, Yakuta, Uriltaso, U’ro-Bell4be, Bangatike, Tobij4gha, Dankandi, Begon- tigi, Kari.
U4
296 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuapr. LXI.
clever Arab, who represented himself as a very im- portant person in Timbuktu, and as an intimate friend of the sheikh El Bakay, under whose especial protec- tion I intended to place myself, at times had the power of raising my spirits by the interesting information which he was able to give me. Now and then, for instance, he described the great mercantile importance of Sansandi, or dwelt upon the great authority enjoyed by the chief, whose fame had inspired me with so much confidence in my undertaking this journey to the west, and through whose influence the former mer- cantile importance of Timbuktu had not only been en- tirely restored, but a new interest had accrued to it as being the seat of a religious chief of high authority, who exercised an influence, not very unlike that of the pope of Rome, over a very large tract of country, and extending even over the pagan tribes around, into the very heart of Mési, that country which, as we shall see more distinctly further on, from a remote age has been the champion of paganism against Isl4m. But on other occasions the conduct of my com- panion was so little straightforward, as to fill me with serious fears. Nevertheless, I here entered into an agreement with him, giving him a fine black tobe and a black shawl, and stipulating to reward him, on my safe arrival in Timbuktu, with a present of twenty dollars and a white helali bernus, besides buying him here a horse for the price of another tobe, three turkedi, and a black shawl. On the whole, at that time, I was too much imposed upon by his fascinating manners to
Cuar. LXI. UNLUCKY FATE OF A LETTER. 297
become fully aware of his intriguing character; and perhaps it was well that it was so, or I might not have trusted myself into his hands. However, by de- grees, I became heartily tired of the long delay which he, together with ‘Ali el A’geren, forced upon me. I had long prepared everything for my outset, and on the 20th I finished a letter, which I addressed to Her Majesty’s consul at Tripoli, and inclosed it under cover to my friend ‘Abd el Kader dan Taffa, in Sdékoto, and decided on intrusting it to the care of Dahdéme, the man who had accompanied me from Gando, and who was to return home from this place, beyond which he enjoyed no authority; but unfortunately he took so little care of the parcel on his journey, when he had to cross a great many swollen rivers, that the outer envelope was destroyed entirely, so that the learned Pullo, not knowing what to make of a letter in a writing which he did not understand, left it with the bearer, with whom I found it on my return to Gando, in the middle of the following year. He had worn it as a sort of charm in his cap, while I expected that it had long reached Europe and informed my friends of my latest proceedings.
298
CHAP. LXIL.
UNSETTLED PROVINCES OBSTRUCTED BY NATURE AND INFESTED BY MAN. — ARIBINDA. — HOMBORI.
Thursday, AT length I set out on the last and-most July lst dangerous stage of my journey to Tim- buktu, thinking at the time that I should be able to reach that celebrated place in about twenty days. But I underrated the distance, such a very different position having been assigned to that mysterious place by geographers; and I had no idea of the diffi- culties which attended this journey, at least for a Christian, and the delays which would be caused me by the character of the new companion whom I had attached to me.
On leaving the turbulent town of Dére, a great many armed people accompanied me, much against my inclination; and their conduct was so suspicious that we were obliged to make a halt and send them about their business : for the inhabitants of this place, not long before, had robbed and killed, in a similar manner, a wealthy sherif, whom they pretended to escort, on his way from Sansandi. Just in crossing the shallow concavity where every year a very ex- tensive sheet of water is formed, which often as-
Cuar. LXIL. LEAVE DO’RE. 299
sumes the dimensions of an immense lake, and even now was covered with fine fresh turf, we met a large caravan of Mési traders from Bussumo, their asses heavily laden with immense bundles of tari, or cotton strips, and with Kédla nuts. Further on, where a little cultivation of cotton appeared, the monkey-bread or baobab tree became predominant. Altogether the whole province seemed to be in a miserable state; and the village Danandé, which we passed after a march of about seven miles, bore evident traces of having suffered from the effects of war. The monotony of the country was pleasingly broken by a small rivulet, which we crossed a few yards beyond the village, and which was bordered by some very fine trees of the “mur” kind, which I have mentioned on a former occasion as affording excellent timber for boat-building. The baobab trees, also, were here greatly distinguished, both by their size and their fine foliage.
We took up our quarters this day in Wilu, a village situated beyond a large sheet of water, or, as it is here called, ‘ wéndu,” overgrown by the finest trees. The place is inhabited by Tawarek slaves, who are trilingues, speaking Temashight as well as Songhay and Fulftilde; but their huts were very miserable indeed, and of mosquitoes there was no end, and we had likewise great difficulty in finding a supply of corn. The hut in which I took up my quarters had been recently built, and on the whole was not so bad, but so choke-full of
300 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cusp. LXE:
simple furniture, such as large jars, pots, dishes, saddles, provision-bags, and numerous other ar- ticles, that I could scarcely find room for myself, while the proprietor, when he returned from the fields and found a stranger quartered in the midst of all his treasures, felt so anxious, that he did not stir from the door. However, the west side of the village being bordered by a large sheet of water, or tebki, richly adorned with trees and herbage, I did not remain long in my close quarters, but hastened towards this green open spot, which was delicious in the extreme, but gave birth to a legion of mosquitoes.
We felt the inconvenience of this little hamlet the more, as we were obliged to stay here the following day; for we received a credible report that El] Khatir, the most powerful of the neighbouring Tawarek chiefs, intended making a foray against this place, and the inhabitants were in a state of the utmost alarm. But a thunder-storm which broke out the next morning, accompanied with a considerable quantity of rain, relieved us, most providentially, of all danger from this quarter, swelling the many watercourses which intersect this region, to such a degree that they became impassable to the enemy. On the west side of the hamlet where we were en- camped there is a considerable suburb of Fulbe cattle-breeders ; and in the evening a great many of them paid me a visit.
We had here entered a district which was very different from that which we had
Saturday, July 23rd.
Cuap. LXII. NUMEROUS SHEETS OF WATER. 301
hitherto traversed in the province of Libtako; and the nature of which caused us great delay, and very serious difficulties, on account of the many rivers and swamps which we had to cross. During the first part of our day’s march, we had the wéndu of Wilu for a long time on our right, bat, having crossed without much difficulty one considerable branch of it, we came to another water with a strong current, which caused us a long delay, as it was at the time about 400 yards across, and not less than four and a half feet deep in the channel. The water at this spot has a southerly course ; but it is difficult to say what greater river it jomns.* For several miles the upper course of this same water, as it seemed, was seen at a short distance on our right. Large wide-spreading “mur,” tamarind, and monkey-bread trees everywhere appeared, and we could see the foot- steps of a great number of elephants. The country on our left was undulating, and consisted of sandy soil clothed almost exclusively with the kalgo, with its ash-coloured leaves and its long red pods; but, as soon as the river receded, the character of the landscape also changed, the surface becoming rather level, and exhibiting more small brushwood, while numerous water-pools spread out, overgrown with kréb, or the edible Poa, and with molukhia. The district was full of buffaloes; but it was also much infested by a dangerous species of fly, which greatly
* T shall reserve a few further observations on this subject till my return journey along the Niger.
302 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXII.
tormented our animals, and which is very rarely met with in the eastern part of Negroland. We en- camped, after a march of about sixteen miles, in the midst of the forest, near the site of the former encampment of a Tawarek horde, where kréb was springing up in the most luxuriant abundance, af- fording the richest pasture to the horses, and a cheerful sight to ourselves; but we had here to sustain a very heavy rain, which lasted for several hours. Fortunately, it was not accompanied by much wind, so that my frail tent offered sufficient resistance ; but the encampment was far from comfortable.
The rain had at length ceased ; but we had scarcely resigned ourselves to sleep, when a troop of pilgrims, passing by at this unusual hour of the night, roused us at once. Fortunately, the ground which we had to traverse further on was of a rocky nature, else it would have been almost impossible to proceed after the last night’s rain; but, after a march of about fourteen miles, we came to a very considerable sheet of water, which we crossed with extreme difficulty, and encamped close beyond in a state of entire ex- haustion. The channel of the torrent itself, which had spread its inundation to a great distance, was so considerable, being at the deepest spot five feet and a half, that it almost swamped me on my horse, besides - wetting all my luggage. The place where we had en- camped was a narrow open spot in the forest; but the ground was full of ants, and we were also greatly troubled by innumerable swarms of small flies which
Caap. LXII. SERIOUS ENCOUNTER. 303
penetrated into all our clothes. Fortunately we had no rain, so that I was able to stay outside, as the heat in the tent was scarcely endurable. This day, also, we observed numerous footprints of elephants.
We rose with the hope that we might jgonaay, arrive at an early hour in Aribinda, or rather 7" the chief place of that district, although we were aware that we should have to cross another consider- able sheet of water; but we were sadly disappointed, for, after a march of about three miles through a more rugged district with black and red granite and a great quantity of gneiss, we reached the wide in- undations of a river called Buggoma by my com- panions, which we endeavoured in vain to cross. Seeing that we should not succeed here, we struck off into the forest in a south-westerly direction, in order to ford it higher up, when suddenly we fell in with two men who were pasturing a couple of asses; but, although we made signs to them that we were their friends, they would not hear us, and, beating their shields, cried out lustily to their companions, who all on a sudden rushed out in every direction from behind the bushes, and in a moment surrounded us. There were from 150 to 200 people, all tall slender men, half-naked, with nothing but a poor ragged cloth round their loins, and another rag still poorer round their heads, and each armed with a couple of spears and a ragged shield, which they brandished over their heads with warlike gesticulations. The affair seemed rather serious, and here it was fortunate that
304 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnarp. LXII.
I had such a clever companion as the Waldti with me; for, while I was pointing my gun, he begged me to ride quietly in advance straight upon those people, and at the same time cried out to them that I was a sherif, and a friend of the sheikh El] Bakay, to whom I was carrying a number of books from the east. All of a sudden they dropped their spears and thronged round me, requesting me to give them my blessing; and the circumstances under which I was placed obliged me to comply with this slight request, although it was by no means a pleasant matter to lay my hands on all these dirty heads.
On the whole it was very fortunate that we met with these people; for without their aid and informa- tion we should scarcely have been able to cross the water which intersected our track, at least without a most serious loss to our luggage. People in Europe have no idea what it is to travel during the rainy season in these regions; else they would not wonder that poor Dr. Vogel, in going at that time of the year from Yakoba to Zariya, lost most of his instru- ments, and all his collections, in crossing the rivers. —
They were poor people from Gad, or Gdgd, and the neighbourhood, a mixture, as | thought at the time, of Songhay and Tawarek, but speaking only the lan- guage of the former; but I found afterwards that they belonged to the tribe of the Gabéro, of whom I shall speak in the following volume. They had visited the market of Aribinda, and were at present on their way to Dére and Libtako, carrying as mer-
Cuap. LXII. CROSSING A SWAMP. 305°
chandise, on a couple of asses and bull oxen, nothing but cotton strips, or ‘“ tari,” rice, and a few mats, of which latter article they brought me three as a present. Having received my blessing, and the tu- mult having quieted down, they conducted us to a place where they declared the water to be fordable. But the boggy ground inspired us with but little confidence ; and it really caused us an immense deal of trouble. My people were obliged to carry all the luggage, even the heaviest, across the swamp, which was half a mile in breadth, the camels being scarcely able to make their way, even unloaded; and I myself had the misfortune to fall under my horse, in the midst of the swamp, almost as badly as had happened to me on a former occasion, on my journey to Kanem. I was firmly convinced that my horse would not be able to carry me over, and that it would be the safest way to cross the bog on foot; but I allowed myself to be swayed by the Walati, who thought that my dignity, in presence of those native tra- vellers, absolutely required me to remain on _horse- back. It was on this occasion that all my journals got wet through in a most miserable way, and we had the greatest difficulty in extricating my horse from the bog, in which it was lying for some minutes as if dead.
It was almost three o’clock in the afternoon when we again set out from the opposite side of the swamp; but we had first to return, along the water, in a north-easterly direction, in order to regain the direct
VOL. IV. X
306 TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Cuarp. LXII.
track. We then proceeded at an expeditious rate, in order to arrive at Aribinda before nightfall. A short distance before we reached our destination, the whole character of the country changed, granite mounds rising on our right and left to considerable altitude, and leaving only a narrow passage through which to proceed,—the beautifully sweeping slope of the emi-
nence on our right being pleasantly adorned with bushes, and enlivened by goats.
Having left another village at the foot of the gra- nite range, we took up our quarters in the lamdrde or residence of the chief of Aribinda, which is likewise situated at the foot of the granitic ridge, part of the huts being built on the slope, and part in the plain,— the latter forming a group by itself, which, with its projecting and receding walls, formed a sort of de-
SN
i aliaguall
fence, as represented in the accompanying woodcut. Here we obtained quarters without delay, two of my
Cuar. LXII. ARIBI'NDA. 307
people having gone in advance; but they were nar- row, dirty, and uncomfortable, and appeared to us the more miserable as a great deal of rain fell during our stay here. The inhabitants belong chiefly to the Son- ghay race; but there are also a great many Tawarek, or rather Tawarek half-castes, who live here peaceably, though in general the Tawarek and the inhabitants of these districts are engaged in almost uninterrupted warfare with each other,—the former always push- ing more and more in advance, and threatening to overrun the whole of this region of Negroland. The people supply themselves with water from the holes in the rocks, where it collects, their supply for the dry season being deposited in a cistern of large size. The soil in the valley, which here widens into a considerable plain, is very fertile, and does not require much rain; and the corn was here a little cheaper than in Lib- tako, one hundred shells, or rather the equivalent of that sum, for shells had no currency in the place, being sufficient for the daily allowance of one horse. Talso observed with pleasure a very fine herd of cattle. Aribinda* seems formerly to have been an important place, or rather province, and the most considerable, at one time, of all the districts on the south side of the river, so that the Songhay of Gdgé designated it Hari-binda, ‘‘the place beyond the water,” which name, in a wider sense, is given to the whole country
' * There are only three more villages at present belonging to the district of Aribinda, their names being as follows: Hore, U’ri, and Wangaré.
x 2
308 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIT.
on the south of the I’sa, or so-called Niger, as an equi- valent to Gurma.
I had been very anxious to conceal the more valu- able articles of my property from the prying eyes of my clever but greedy Arab companion; but the fol- lowing day, as I was obliged to dry some of my lug- gage, which had been completely soaked, he got a peep at some fine berntises which I had with me; and, in order to satisfy his covetousness, I thought it prudent to make him here a handsome present. Al- together my luggage suffered severely from the many watercourses which we had to cross at this stage of my journey, as well as from the excessive dampness of the weather. [I also made some presents to the governor, but was rather astonished when, on setting out, he begged from me the very tobe which I was then wearing. Wednesday, Lhe country which we had to traverse was July 27th. diversified by small granitic ranges and de- tached cones; but it also afforded many localities for swampy grounds, very difficult to be crossed. In some places beans were cultivated besides millet. We encamped at length, after a march of about fifteen miles, in the midst of the forest, on the site of a former village, which was richly overgrown with the most succulent herbage, very grateful both to horse and camel.
ithe We had had some summer lightning in the
july 28th. evening, followed by slight rain during the
night; but about half-past six o’clock in the morning,
Cuap- LXI. FI/LIYO, A SONGHAY VILLAGE. 309
a very heavy thunder-storm broke out, accompanied by violent rain, which lasted till noon, and rendered us extremely uncomfortable. My friend El Walati, being of a weak and nervous temperament, was, as usual on such occasions, laid up with fever. In consequence of the state of the weather, it was not till past three o’clock in the afternoon that we at length set out on our watery march, and after a stretch of about ten miles, having passed a very extensive and deep water, reached the Songhay village of Filiyo, and with extreme difficulty obtained most indifferent and damp quarters in the dark. The whole village is built of clay, with elevated towerlike entrances not unlike the granaries in Champagére. It consists of several detached groups, which are separated by corn- fields, where the crops were standing moderately high. The inhabitants belong exclusively to the Songhay race, with the exception of a few Ftlbe, who, however, have themselves almost changed their national cha- racter; and although the village is externally sub- jected to the Pullo governor of Gilgdji, or Jilgddi, nevertheless the people have a very independent de- meanour, and hold in detestation the conquering tribe of the Fulbe: even their carriage bears evident tes- timony to a certain feeling of liberty; and there is no end of smoking. The women wear a profusion of ornaments, while all of them are, besides, distinguished by a copper ring round the wrist.
Having arrived so late the preceding evening that the horses had even remained without food, I was
x 3
310 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXTI.
obliged to stay here the next day in order to pur- chase a supply of corn, which I effected with the farrawel I had obtained in Libtako, consisting of eight pieces called “kéria,” or “farda,” sewn together. All the grain hereabouts consists of Negro millet, or, as the Songhay call it, “héni.” The governor of the place, who had treated me inhospitably the first evening, on being remonstrated with for his miserly conduct, gave me very generous treatment. Satarddy, On leaving the place, I was exceedingly July 30th. struck with its castlelike appearance, as well as with the fine crops of corn which surrounded it on all sides, while a rich growth of trees embellished the district to the south. It was a fine morning, and, a heavy dew having fallen, the drops of wet slipping down from the corn glistened in the rays of the morning sun, while the monkey-bread trees being just in full blossom, the white bell-like flowers hanging down from the colossal branches gave a remarkable relief to the scenery. It was through such a country that our path kept along, on a rising ground, when, after a march of about fourteen miles, and leaving a couple of hamlets built of matting, like the dwellings of the inhabitants of Gdgd, on one side, we reached the Songhay town of Tinge, built likewise in the shape of a“ kasr,” and situated on the summit of a small hill.
The houses in this village have not an elevated towerlike shape like those of Filiyo, nor do they contain an upper story. They have flat roofs. The
Cuar. LXII. TINGE. ait
walls consist of sun-dried clay, which is formed in regular lumps, like stones, and is placed in uni- form layers, with loose clay between. Such being the mode of construction, the whole of the houses have rather a miserable appearance from without, and more particularly so at the time of our arrival, in the hot hour of noon, when the destructive effect of the rainy season became more apparent in the mid- day sun. But the interior of the dwellings is not so bad, and some of them are very large and spacious, as the accom- panying ground-plan of the quar- ters where I was lodged will serve to show. These consisted of a very spacious antechamber, or segifa, forty feet long by ten feet wide, and as many in height, —I myself taking up the part to the right of the en- trance, and my people that on the left, a sort of light wall being formed with matting. From this ante- chamber we could pass into an irregular courtyard, which gave access to a number of apartments where several families were living.
The inhabitants of this place are Songhay who have vindicated their liberty, up to the present time, suc- cessfully against the restless and steadily advancing Fulbe, although in independence they are far behind their noble brethren in Dargol and those other places lower down the Niger. The indigenous name of their family is Beleéde, or, as they are called by the Fulbe,
Kurminkdbe; and they are said to have come from x 4
312 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXI.
Zishia, near Téra. The nobler among them do not disfigure their features at all by tattooing, or “‘ kdrto,” while some of them make an incision under the left eye, from the nose towards the cheek-bone, and the common people, three separate incisions—three cuts on the temple, three in the middle of the cheek, and three at the lower part of the face. All of them wear clothing, the greater part of them being dressed in indigo-dyed shirts. Their weapons consist almost entirely of spears. Swords are very rare; nor are the bow and arrow, which constitute the principal weapons of the people of Dargol, usual among them. The exertions of the natives of these places in defend- ing their independence are greatly favoured by the discord and dissensions which prevail amongst the Fulbe,—Mahamiudu, one of the Filbe chiefs of Dalla, having, in consequence of his disputes with the sheikh A’hmedu, taken refuge with the pagan natives of Mési, from whence he makes continual predatory ex- peditions against the territory of his countrymen the Fulbe. The inhabitants of Tinge, therefore, males as well as females, enjoy their liberty and independence in smoking the whole day long, and dancing every evening when it is not raining,—an amusement which already, in the eleventh century, the Andalusian geo- grapher El Bekri did not fail to remark as character- istic of these people*, while their less happy brethren in Timbuktu and Jimballa have been deprived of these
* El Bekri, “ Description de Afrique,” Arabe texte, published by Macguckin de Slane, p. 183.
Same
OD ee Sake) eae ON ee en
Cuar. LXIL HABITS OF INDUSTRY. 318
their favourite and innocent amusements by the aus- tere laws of their fanatical oppressors.
The natives are industrious, both in cultivating the ground and in weaving; and these habits seemed to be favoured by Providence, so that while all the neighbouring districts were suffering from dearth and famine, in this village corn was plentiful, especially Negro millet, or “héni.” Indian millet, ‘“sdba” or ‘“‘ hame,” was rather scarce. But the corn was still in seed and not pounded, so that we were obliged to stay here again a day in order to have a supply prepared for us. We bought our corn, in the beginning, for the farrawel which we had brought from Libtako ; but after a little while the inhabitants refused to accept of this cotton, which is not so good as their own manufacture. The cotton which I had brought from Gando was much better than theirs; but it did not please them, on account of the narrowness of the strips. My English darning-needles were, however, very acceptable, as being exceedingly well adapted for the coarse texture of their woollen shawls and blankets. Fifty of them fetched here a price equal to the value of a Spanish dollar; but the small com- mon needles were regarded by them with the utmost contempt.
Temployed my time, as far as the rainy weather would allow me, in taking a walk through the country; and I was not a little surprised when I found that the ground hereabouts, particularly towards the west, was very rocky, the corn being sown in the intervening patches
314 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXIL
of arable soil. On a rising spot, a few hundred yards from the village, there was a group of matting huts, which constituted a small weaving manufactory. At the foot of the hill on which the village was situ- ated, there was a deep pond covered with Pistia Stra- totes, like the ponds in the interior of Kandé; and it was from here that I was particularly struck by the fortlike appearance of the village, with its receding and projecting angles, and its half-circular, bastionlike walls in other places, as represented in the accom- panying woodcut ; while in the distance the mountain
groups formed an interesting background. However, we had here such a heavy fall of rain that I was
obliged to sacrifice another day, as the roads were
Cnap. LXII. HEAVY RAINS. 315
rendered totally impassable. ‘The rain which fell in the afternoon of the last day of July was of such violence that a fourth part of the houses in the town suffered more or less; and in one dwelling, which was totally destroyed, eleven goats were killed, while the inmates themselves had only just time to escape. It was discovered that just life enough remained in these poor animals in order to enable their owners to perform the essential ceremony of cutting their throats; for they also have a touch of Islam.
In the beginning of this my journey to the west, I had been very anxious to move on as fast as possible, in order to avoid the worst part of the rainy season ; but seeing that all was in vain, I had become, in a certain degree, indifferent to the loss of time; but when the first of August broke upon me in this village, I became deeply concerned, and wrote in ‘my journal: ‘May the Almighty bless this month, and lighten the difficulties which stand in my way, that before its close I may safely reach the place of my destination |”
It was most interesting to observe from the top of the hill the uninterrupted sheet of water, which, after the immense quantity of rain that had fallen, was spreading out over the low grounds in the plain; and the people themselves whose dwellings had suffered so much, and which were just about to undergo the necessary repairs, were standing gazing with delight upon the deluge which promised to them a very rich crop. My clever Arab from the west lay almost dead
316 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXII.
with fever; but the head man of the town, whose name was A’bu-Bakr, a man of very stately appear- ance, was of rather a communicative disposition, so that with his assistance I was able to make con- siderable progress in my knowledge of the Songhay language; and, if I had been able to go on in this way, I might soon have mastered the language; but unfortunately my situation became too unsettled in the sequel to allow of a quiet course of study; to say nothing of the fact, that the extremely poor character of the language itself completely damped my enthusiasm. |
I here first discovered the error of Caillié in giving to the people of Timbtuktu the name of ‘“ Kissur,” or, as he writes, “ Kissour,” which is evidently nothing but a mistake, “ ki-sovri,” or rather ‘ ki-songhi,” “ ki- songhay,” meaning the language of the Songhay. I
here also became aware of the fact that this idiom is.
originally monosyllabic, while I observed likewise that the language spoken in A’gades, of which I had made a vocabulary, though evidently a dialect of the same idiom, had been affected to a great extent by the influence of the Temashight, or Berber. ees We at length set out to pursue our August 2nd. Journey, which now became full of danger, as we had to traverse the province of Dalla, which is ruled by a governor in direct subjection to the fa- natical chief of Masina residing in Hamda-Allahi, who would never allow a Christian to visit his terri- tory. I was therefore obliged to assume the character of an Arab. Just at that time a change in the govern-
Cuar. LXII. FU’LBE CATTLE-BREEDERS. 317
ment of this district had taken place, —a young inex- perienced lad having succeeded to the former ruler. Fortunately there had been no rain the afternoon of the preceding day, so that the country had dried up a little from the inundation of the last of July, and the weather was fine and genial. Thus cheer- fully proceeding on our road, we met several people on their way to the town with fowls and milk; for during our stay in Tinge the communication with the neighbouring places had been entirely interrupted by the heavy rains. A’bu-Bakr escorted me to some distance, when he left me with a hearty wish for the success of my undertaking, and begged me urgently to be on my guard. In taking here quite a north- erly direction, we now entered a province where the population of the Fulbe entirely prevails, and this day we had passed several encampments of Fulbe cattle- breeders on our route, consisting of oblong oval-shaped huts, constructed of matting. Cattle seemed to abound ; but the cultivation of the ground was rather scanty, and the character of the country uniform, and without any interesting features, the trees con- sisting almost exclusively of talha and homéd. We had also to cross a river, at present about 200 yards wide and two feet deep, which the preceding day had evidently been impassable and had carried away se- veral head of cattle, a fact we learned from a Pullo neatherd whom we passed on our road, as he was cheerfully stalking before his cattle, and leading them along merely by the sound of his voice. . Thus, after a march of about thirteen miles, having
318 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. -Cuap. LXII.
erossed a swamp and left a larger sheet of water on our left, we reached a miserable hamlet called Déshi, belonging still to the district of Kséne (which com- prises Filiyo), and consisting of several groups of half-decayed clay dwellings inhabited by poor Son- ghay people, who appeared to be greatly oppressed.
It was with some difficulty that we here obtained quarters; and we had the misfortune of falling into a dispute with the landlord, on account of the many dogs which beset his house, and would not cede their place to us. This was a certain proof that the natives were not far advanced in Islam, as the Mohammedans in general are averse to the company of this unclean animal, and the Fulbe very rarely make use of dogs even for watching their numerous herds of cattle. Most of these dogs were of black colour, and almost all the fowls were of black and white colour. I here also observed that the native women carried the water in a pair of buckets slung across the shoulder, as I had remarked already in other Songhay places; but here, also, they did not wear nose-rings.
The country around was well cultivated, and pro- duced especially sorghum; but the harvest of the preceding year had not been a favourable one, as was the case almost all over the country, so that dearth was prevailing. |
We here met with a party of native traders from Ho6mbori, with oxen laden with salt, who gave us some useful information with regard to the road be- fore us. It had been a point of great dispute with
Cuar. LXII. HO’/MBORI. 319
us whether or not we should visit that town, one of the most ancient settlements in Negroland, probably already mentioned as an independent place by El Bekri*, and forming the seat of a governor in the palmy days of the Songhay empire, the Hombori-koy, and where even now a considerable market is held; but after mature consideration we had thought it better to leave it on one side, as on account of the con-
siderable intercourse of people in that place, and the
many Arabs who frequent it, the danger of my true character being there discovered was the greater. Notwithstanding our determination not to touch at; Hémbori, on setting out the following day, after an almost sleepless night, owing to the number of mosquitoes, we preserved an entirely northerly direction. There was a good deal of cultivation round the village, consisting of Indian and Negro millet, the crops being almost ripe. But I here met again that great annoyance to the husbandman, the black worm “ halowes,’ my old acquaintance in Bagirmi, which I had not seen in the whole inter- vening country, and which causes an immense deal of damage to the crops. The ground was rocky in many
* El Bekri, ed. de Slane, 1857, texte arabe, p. 179.; comp. Cooley, the Negroland of the Arabs, p. 39. n. 73. — There can be but little doubt that by this » li} 4 20 Hémbori is meant ; for although El Bekri made a gross mistake in stating that this place was situated west of Ghana, while in reality it was east, yet, on the other hand, it is very remarkable that the distance of nine days between Ambara and Kukia, or Kigha, agrees exactly with that between Hombori and the latter place.
320 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXII.
places; but this did not prevent the growth of the monkey-bread tree, which is often seen shooting forth from between the very rocks. Further on I also observed a little cultivation of beans, while the black worm was succeeded by large heaps of the small red worm, which I had first observed on the banks of the river Sirba, and which seems to be a terrible nuisance to many of these districts. Gra- dually the road became more swampy, while we ob- tained a distant view of the detached mountains of Hombori.
About three o’clock in the afternoon, five of our party, riding a little in advance of the camels, ap- proached the town of Kubo, when, being observed by some of the inhabitants, our appearance created a great alarm in the place, the people thinking that a hostile troop was approaching; but, as soon as they beheld our laden camels, their fears ceased, and they gave us quarters. Kubo is the first place of the district called Téndi, or el Hajri (meaning, the mountainous or stony district), while Filiyo and Déshi belong to the district called Kséne; but in a political respect Kubo belongs now to the province of Dalla, which at present is governed by a son of Médi Bole; it is two days and a half distant from the town of Hombori*, and is a place of some importance. The
* A person starting from Kubo sleeps the first night in the forest, halting about aser; the second day, before noon, he reaches Ténderi, probably so called from being situated on or at
the foot of a mountain; and the third day, about 9 o’clock in the morning, he arrives at Hombori.
Cuar. LXII. KU’BO.—THE DISTRICT TO/NDI. 321
houses are usually well built, and consist of clay, the greater part of them including a tolerably large courtyard. Our house also was spacious; but, on account of my heavy luggage, I was obliged to take up my quarters in the open segifa, or antechamber, which was greatly exposed to mosquitoes. In front of my quarters there was a handsome square of tole- rably regular shape; and towards the north a con- siderable tank spread out, along which led the path into the fields: for, the whole place being situated in a depression of the ground, all the moisture of the neighbourhood collects here.
The village is surrounded by a light stockade of two rows of bushes; and round about the place there are several ponds of water. Turtles are very com- mon here, and the soil swarms with ants. The place was tolerably well provided with corn, and I bought here twenty mudd for one hundred dra of Gando cot- ton strips, equal in reality to nine hundred shells, but the mudd of Kubo is smaller than that of Tinge, being about two thirds of its size, and in the form of a round dish, while that of Tinge is like a pitcher. The daily allowance of corn for a horse cost about one hundred shells.
A very heavy thunder-storm, accompanied with violent rain, broke out in the evening; and the clayey soil of the country which we had to traverse obliged me to stay here the following day. The delay caused me great disappointment, as the spreading of the news of my journey could not fail to increase its
VOL. Iv. y
a22 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXII.
difficulties, and the more so as we heard here the un- pleasant tidings that the governor of Dalla himself was near, and that most probably we should fall in with him. : Meanwhile I was applied to by our host and a cousin of his, to decide a dispute between them as to the chieftainship of their village ; but, of course, I referred them to their own liege lord, and they started off to join him, near the village of Duna; but — their absence did not expose us to inhospitality, as_ we were very lavishly treated with numerous dishes of Indian corn, which, however, were rendered less palatable by the use of the dodéwa-bosso, or the adulterated dodéwa; we also received a good supply of milk. J even bought a few fowls, though they were rather dear, selling for one hundred shells each, a price here reckoned equal to two darning-needles. miday: There had been another heavy rain in the August oth. afternoon of the preceding day, but, for- tunately, it had not been of sufficient duration to render the roads impassable. There was a great deal of indecision with my companion El Walati as to the route which we should pursue; and while it almost seemed from our northerly direction as if up to this moment he had intended to take me to Hémbori, notwithstanding his former protestations against such a proceeding, he now pretended it was necessary that we should go to Duna, and we accordingly changed our course to the west, or rather W.S.W., steering about like a vessel with contrary winds. There
Cuarp. LXII. MARCH OF RED WORMS. 393
can be no doubt that all this time the crafty Arab himself was hesitating as to the course which he should take, and this was evidently the reason of his great delay, as he probably thought that he might have a chance of getting rid of me, and taking possession of my property; but we did not become aware of this treacherous conduct till we arrived at the place of our destination, when we learned how providentially we had escaped all his wiles.
At the western end of the village of Kubo there is a suburb of Fulbe cattle-breeders, consisting of about sixty large huts of reed. As soon as we had left this place behind us, we were quite horror-struck at observing all the paths full of those small red worms which I have mentioned before, marching in un- broken lines towards the village; even my servants Were quite surprised at such a spectacle, having never before seen any thing like it, and they gave vent to their feelings of astonishment, and at the same time of commiseration for the natives, in reite- rated exclamations of ** Wolla, wolla!” I am not acquainted with the reason of this curious pheno- menon, but it seems peculiar to this region. Yet the eround was not quite barren, and was even sprinkled with violets here and there, the surface being undu- lating, not unlike the sandy downs of Kanem, the parallel of which country, namely about 15° of northern latitude, we had here reached.
Proceeding thus, we reached after a march of about four miles a higher point, from whence we had
Voz
324 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIIL.
a view over a wide expanse of underwood, broken only now and then by a baobab tree, while towards the north some of the detached cones of the Hém- bori range gave to the landscape a very singular feature, the isolated eminences of the range (if range it can be called) starting up from the plain in the most peculiar forms, as the accompanying woodcut will show.
<> === LOU EU LOS Ee Fn dors a o~
We passed the site of a former place; but at pre- sent there were only nomadic encampments of Fulbe cattle-breeders, with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and only little cultivation was to be seen. The dwellings, in a hamlet which we passed a little further on, were of a very irregular description, cor- responding to the corn-stacks which we had left on one side a little before, as represented in the accom- panying woodcut. All the children here, even those of the Fulbe, were quite naked. My companion El Walati wanted to obtain quarters in this place; but fortunately the huts proved too bad, and we moved on, another hamlet, which we passed a little further on, being of a still worse description.
Cuar. LXII. NATIVE DWELLINGS. 325
On passing several parties of Fulbe travellers on our road, I was surprised at the change in the form of compliments, the mode of saluting having been, the last few days, “bardaijo,” but to-day we met some parties who saluted us with the well-known compliment “‘ féfo,” a word which, although probably of western origin, has been even admitted into the Hausa language, with the meaning of general well- wishing. Thus we proceeded cheerfully onwards, having crossed a very difficult boggy ground, where I almost lost one of my camels, till, a little after two o’clock in the afternoon, we reached the poor village of Duna, consisting of three detached groups of huts, one of which, with its high towerlike granaries with a pointed roof of thatch, presented a very remarkable spectacle. As for myself, [ obtained quarters in an isolated hut of rather indifferent description.
The first news which I learned here, and which was far from being agreeable, was, that the governor of Dalla with his camp was at a short distance, and in the very road which we had to pursue the fol-
x3
326 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXII.
Miia = A ; NAG Sirs yee ~ eee
lowing day; and as in consequence it would have been highly imprudent to endeavour to pass him un- noticed, I determined to send two of my men to him with a present, while I pursued my journey with the rest of my people. But as this governor was a vassal - of the chief of Hamda-Allahi, who, if he had heard that I was a Christian, would probably have thrown great difficulties in my way, and perhaps not allowed me to proceed at all, I was not without great anx- iety, and passed a sleepless night; and the crowd of people who had come out from the camp on the news of a distinguished stranger having arrived, and who completely surrounded me on my setting out, was far from agreeable. At length we started, traversing a district of red sandy soil, and overgrown with
Cuap. LXIL GOVERNOR OF DALLA. B27
scanty herbage, while a considerable extent of ground was under cultivation, without, however, promising a rich harvest, the crops being rather thin and of poor quality; and we had only proceeded a short distance, when we observed such enormous quantities of the red worm as we had never seen before, not even near Kubo, forming large heaps, from which long and unbroken lines were seen moving east- ward.
After a march of two miles, we reached the half- decayed and deserted village called Nyanga Segga, where the governor of Dalla was encamped. But, as if he had expected my coming, he and all his people had mounted. I had sent E] Walati and ‘Ali to pre- sent my compliments to him; but when I was pur- suing the right track, all the horsemen came up to me, requesting me to give them my blessing; and they so urgently entreated me at the same time to pay my respects personally to their chief, that I could not resist their request. But it almost seemed as if FE] Walati had in some way or other compromised himself by his ambiguous conduct; and when I ap- proached the emir, who was very simply dressed, the former quite forgot the part which he had to play, and, casting a wild look at me, requested me to with- draw, in such a manner as greatly to increase the danger of my situation. Deeming it better not to enter into a dispute with this man under such cir- cumstances, I retreated as soon as I had com- plimented the chief, pursuing my track, but I was
v4
328 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXII.
followed by several horsemen, who were rather troublesome than otherwise.
The governor of Dalla is said to be more powerful than even that of Gilgdéji, with whom he is in an almost continual state of feud, as is the case with nearly all these petty chiefs, although they are all the vassals of one and the same liege lord. This man, however, was to become of remarkable interest to me; for I was soon to meet him again under very altered circumstances, when, from being an object of fear to myself, he was obliged to sue for my pro- tection, as will be seen in the sequel.
The country hereabout presented a sandy level mostly clad with acacias, and especially with a kind called érria. About eight miles beyond Nyanga Segga, the ground became swampy; and after a march of about two miles more we reached the fields of Mun- d6éro, or rather their site, for, in the present desolate state of the country, they were not under cultivation at the time. Here the soil consisted of deep white sand adorned with large baobab trees, while parallel on our right, at the distance of about five hundred yards, a range of sandhills stretched along, over- topped in the distance by an imposing cone _ be- longing to the Hombori mountains. ‘Thus reaching, at last, cultivated ground, where the crops, however, were still very scanty and in a neglected state, we entered, a little after two o’clock, the deserted village of Mundéro, which till recently had been a consider- able town, consisting of a small kasrlike place, of dwellings built of clay, and with very pointed thatched
Cuap. LXII. STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE. 329
a roofs, similar to those represented above, and an open : suburb of spacious cottages, consisting of thatch- work of a very peculiar shape, as represented in the accompanying woodcut. With the exception of
wie
about a dozen people, the place was quite deserted, the former chief, Mahamudu, having fallen into dis- grace with the governor of Dalla, and sought refuge with the inhabitants of Mési, from whence he carried on a continual series of expeditions against his kins- men. Fortunately we were accompanied by a trooper of the governor of Dalla, who took great care in sup- plying us with necessaries. All the huts were very spacious, but the thatching was not of very accurate workmanship, and the humidity which entered my hut in the course of the night, when we experienced a violent thunder-storm with very heavy rain, was considerable; but keeping up a large fire during the whole of the night, I felt tolerably comfortable, al- though the greater part of my hut was under water. Taking now a N.N.W. course, we again approached nearer the mountains of Hém- “%ust 7th. bori, which for several days we had already observed in the distance on our right; but after leaving Kubo,
Sunday,
330
wei Hiya
water, we eradually began to turn a little westward from N., the country improving till we reached the
yl i Meat
WV,
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dg
TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
Cuar. LXII.
owing to our curious zig- zag travelling, we had again turned off from them en- tirely; and when we left the village of Mundoro, it seemed even as if we were almost to retrace our steps, for we followed a direction a little I. from N. while ascending through cultivated ground, till, after a march of three miles, we reached the highest point of this tract, which pre- sented to us a highly inter- esting view of the mountains, or rather the detached emi- nences, of the Hémbori range (which is represented in the accompanying woodcut), iso- lated cones starting forth from the plain in the most gro- tesque and fanciful forms. Here we began to de- scend through an undulating sandy tract, where the acacia predominated, only inter- rupted now and then by a single baobab tree. Having passed a pond of stagnant
Oe ee a ee ee a ee
Cuap. LXII. CLAY HOUSES OF I/SAYE’. 331
fields of I’sayé, or I’sé, a place of some importance, consisting, as the villages in this neighbourhood ge- nerally do, of a nucleus of clay houses remarkable only on account of its peculiar towerlike granaries, and a suburb of cottages of thatch-work, but of the most varied shape, several of which are represented in the accompanying woodcut; and here we took up our
quarters. As for myself, I obtained a large, ex- cellent hut, with, however, this great defect —that the lower part of the thatching was so thin and frail that a heavy shower would have swamped the whole, but for a small channel which was carried all round the inner part of the wall.
I felt greatly exhausted, in consequence of the con- stant humidity to which I was exposed, and was neither able to enjoy the hospitable treatment which was shown me, nor even to get rest at night, although I changed my couch repeatedly in order to obtain some repose. But as we remained here the following day, I had sufficient leisure to become fully acquainted with the distinguishing features of this place; and I made a sketch (which has been represented in the
Son TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXII.
plate opposite) of the village, together with an ex- tensive pond from which the natives at this season of the year get their supply of water, and the pictu- resque castellated mountains of Hémbori in the back- ground. ;
The place is populous, and inhabited by Songhay and Fulbe conjointly, the latter of whom belong to the tribe called Jéllobe, and are in possession of large herds of cattle and numerous flocks, while the na- tive Songhay seem to be poor and rather badly off. As strict Mohammedans they have the custom of wearing silver rings on their little finger, which they fancy obtains favour for them when saying their prayers. A good deal of industry was apparent ; but corn was very dear, although cheaper than it was said to be further on, where no corn was to be obtained except in Nuiggera; and I was glad to buy a small quantity of grain, the mudd for four dra of very broad cotton strips, while sixteen dra of Gando cotton strips were esteemed equal to ten dra of their own.
Cowries, or “ chéde,” had no currency here, except
for buying sour milk, of which there was a good supply. On account of the numerous pools which surround the place, it was infested by mosquitoes, which deprived me of what was most valuable to me —a good night’s rest.
Peeaday, There were two roads before us through August 9th. the unsettled country to the north, where at. present there are no towns, but only temporary encampments of the Tawarek or Imdshagh, who are
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#
Cuar. LXII. HO’MBORI MOUNTAINS. 333
now in possession of the country adjacent to the banks of the great river to a considerable extent, — one road leading in a more northerly direction to Laro, and the other in a north-westerly one to Bone; and although the guide whom we had taken with us from Mundéro assured us that we should not find in Béne either quarters or hospitality, my friend El Walati, for some reason or other, preferred the latter route, and we had to make rather a long day’s journey in the weakened state to which we ourselves and our animals were reduced. But the march was highly interesting, on account of the peculiar nature and the picturesque shape of the several detached cones of the Hémbori mountains, through the midst of which our way led. It would have been im- possible, from the information which I had ga- thered from the natives, to form a correct idea of the character of the chain, which I had thought far more elevated and continuous: — the highest elevation which some of the cones reach does not appear to be more than 800 feet above the plain.
In the beginning the appearance of the country was more uniform, while the mountains, covered by the rising ground on our right, looked like mere hills, our track itself lying through a more level country sometimes covered with underwood, and at others presenting a bleak open ground, or “néga;” but the interest of this scenery increased considerably when we reached the western foot of a broader mound which had already attracted our attention the day
334 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXII.
before. Ona sloping ground, consisting of rubbish and boulders, there rose a wall of steep cliffs like an artificial fortification, forming, as it seemed, a spa-
cious terrace on the top, where there are said to be three hamlets, inhabited by a spirited race of natives who, in this rocky retreat, vindicate their inde- pendence against the overbearing intrusions of the Fulbe. We even observed on the slope under the steep cliffs, where there are several caverns, some people pasturing their sheep, while fields of Negro corn and karas, or Corchorus olitortus, testified to the fact that the natives sometimes descend even into the very plain to satisfy their most necessary wants.
Cuar. LXIL. CASTELLATED MOUNDS. DoD
After passing this mound, and following a more north-westerly direction, we approached another mound, rising from the plain like an isolated cone, and with its steep, narrow, and rugged crest, looking exactly like the ruin of a castle of the middle ages.
Leaving this mound, together with the path leading to the Songhay town of Léro on our right, we ap- proached the southern foot of another castellated mound, which stretched out to a greater length, but offered in its rugged and precipitous cliffs, exactly the spectacle of crenellated walls and towers. Where the foot of the mound juts out into the path on the top of the offshoots, the inhabitants of the mountain
336 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIL.
had erected a small chapel, or rather a place for pagan worship, which presented a very peculiar appear- ance. Here we entered a sort of broad defile, formed between this castellated mound and another cone towards the west, which, although of considerable elevation, was not so rugged, and exhibited a less picturesque appearance.
Greatly fatigued by our long march, eapoualte as a cool breeze in the morning was followed by an oppres- sive heat in the noonday hours, we reached, at about five o’clock in the afternoon, the Fulbe village of Bone, situated at the foot of the eastern mound; but ) although I had sent two of my people in advance, we : were unable to obtain quarters, and after some un- availing dispute we were obliged to encamp outside in the open grassy vale between the two mountains ; for the inhabitants of this village, who are exclusively Fulbe, do not like strangers to enter their dwellings, at least not for a night’s quarters. They however treated us in the evening with a good supply of milk, while they also informed us that a large en- campment of that section of the Tawarek which is called Iregenaten was at a few miles’ distance. El Walati supposed, or rather pretended to suppose, that they were the clan of a powerful chief of the name of Somki, and assured me that it would be necessary to make this chief a handsome present, in order that under his protection we might proceed safely from camp to camp till we reached the banks of the Niger; for although we might have travelled
Cuar. LXII. BONE. 337 -
by a more southerly road turning from this point west- ward to Nuggera, it seemed more prudent to en- . deavour to get out of the range of the dominion of the Fulbe, in order not to be at the mercy of the chief of Hamda-Allahi, who certainly could not but be hostile to my intention of reaching Timbuktu. And it seems not to be out of place to mention here, that this very Nuggera,—a hamlet of some note, as being the residence of learning and holiness,—was the point from which the founder of the dynasty of Hamda- Allahi started.
VOL. IV. Z
338
CHAP. LXIIT.
IMOSHAGH OR TAWAREK ENCAMPMENTS SOUTH OF THE NIGER. — LAKES AND BACKWATERS OF THE GREAT RIVER.
Wednesday, IN conformity with our project, I myself, August 1°). with El Waldti and two of my people on
horseback, leaving my luggage behind with the rest
of my servants, started in the morning for the camp of the Tawarek, having provided a very handsome present, consisting of a large Nupe tobe, a red cap, a turkedi, and three fine “haf” or “litham,” altogether worth about 20,000 shells. However, we had only proceeded about a mile when we met a few Tawarek serfs, who informed us that it was not Somki, but another chief who had moved his encampment to this place; and, from what I observed, I concluded that El Walati had been well aware of this before, but wanted only to extort from me a large present. Once in the hands of this crafty Arab, I had to use great discretion in order to prevent him from betray- ing me altogether, and I was obliged to bear silently any little trick which he might play me in order to enrich himself, as long as I proceeded onwards and approached the object of my arduous undertaking. We therefore moved on, and, soon leaving the moun-
See De ee a ee
Caar. LX(U. TAWA/REK ENCAMPMENT. 359
tains behind us, after a march of about eight miles through a plain covered with dense underwood, reached the encampment of the Tawarek.
This was a very important stage of my journey. Having with the greatest difficulty and danger crossed the wide open country of the other more easterly tribes of the Tawarek on the setting out of our expedition, and heartily glad to have got rid of them, I here once more entered their territory and delivered myself up into their hands without enjoying the protection of a single powerful chief, and guided solely by the advice of that crafty man whose only purpose was to get from me as much as possible. The encampment consisted of leather tents of larger or smaller size, but it evidently belonged to a chief without great power, as seemed to be apparent from the total absence of camels and horses. However, I immediately conceived a favourable impression of the muscular strength and dexterity of these people; for when we approached the tent of the chief, who was sitting inside upon his couch of reeds, he with a single jerk jumped out and suddenly stood upright before us. Of course the tent was open in front, but never- theless it appeared to me a great gymnastic feat, especially taking into account the lowness of the entrance, aS in Jumping out he had to stoop at the same time. Without delay a smaller tent was placed at our disposal, and we made ourselves comfortable.
The tents, ““é¢he” (pl. éhénnan), consist of a large round piece of leather formed of a great number of
Zz 2
340 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIII.
smaller sheepskins cut in quadrangular pieces and sewed together, while the borders of the whole are left purposely very irregular, in order to pass the stalks, which describe the outward circle of the tent, through the projecting corners. These skins are spanned over three pairs of poles, the middle pair of considerable elevation, the remaining two not so high, and one of them, on the right of the entrance, being forked, as represented in the accompanying woodcut,
although, as far as I have become aware, the middle poles are not always the same, in some tents both joining at the top, in others seeming to stand apart. The whole character of these tents will be still better understood from the plate representing the Tawarek encampment at Amalélle in the next volume.
Cuar. LXIII. TAWA’REK COMFORTS. 341
In such a tent there are generally two couches, or divans, called ‘“ teshégit,” made of a fine species of reed, and raised about a foot from the ground; for these people generally choose the most swampy places for their encampments, and after a thunder-storm are sometimes to be found in the midst of a lake. They are also not wanting in comforts; and on every couch there is a leather pillow, ‘‘adafdér,” which cer- tainly seems very essential, as 1t would be most un- comfortable to rest the elbow on the uneven and hard surface of these reed couches. Almost all the fur- niture of these simple people, besides a few wooden bowls for eating and drinking, consists of leather bags of excellent workmanship and sometimes very tastefully ornamented, as will be shown in the fol- lowing volume. In these they stow away their clothes as well as their provisions; and during the night they surround the whole tent with very neat mattings of a fine species of reed, so that a tent of this description forms quite a comfortable dwelling.
Although our host was evidently not one of the first-rate chiefs, he, as well as his kinsfolk and friends who came to visit us, had a very noble and prepos- sessing appearance, being rather broad-shouldered, stout, and well knit, with a pleasing expression of countenance and a fair skin, though there were a few among them who, with their coarse features and their dark skin, bore testimony to the deterioration of the Berber blood. We had scarcely made ourselves comfortable, when we were treated with large quan-
Zz 3
B42 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXE.
tities of fresh and sour milk, while a fat sheep was slaughtered and prepared for our supper, but without any additional food, these people living almost en- tirely on meat and milk.
Of course I had to make a handsome present to my new friends, consisting of a fine black tobe, a turkedi, and a black haram; but I doubt very much whether my friend EK] Walati gave them these articles as a pre- sent from me, or whether he sgld them as his own. However, be this as it may, I wanted not only their protection, but their assistance too, as my camels were so weakened by the continual humidity to which they were exposed, that they were not fit to carry my lug- gage any further. But besides, as we had to pass the seats of these lawless tribes, we had to grope our way, as well as possible, from one encampment to the other, so that we wanted guides; and it was therefore ar- ranged that, hiring a couple of pack-oxen at this place, we should join this tribe the following morning, when they would take us on our way to the chief, Somki. The mountainous district, in the direction of Nuggera, had the following appearance at its ter- mination.
Cuap. LXIII. A CASCADE. 343
On returning from this encampment to Béne, being misled by a man who professed to know the district, which for the most part consists of swampy ground, we fell into a dangerous bog, and made our way with great difficulty. We were also visited by a very heavy thunder-storm in the evening, which swamped the whole country, killed one of my camels, and ren- dered our night’s rest very uncomfortable. In con- sequence of this violent rain our road the next day, on our way to the Tawdrek, was very bad, and we had great difficulty in avoiding the swamps; but I was rewarded by the picturesque aspect of the scenery, a rich cascade rushing down over the steep cliffs of the mountain, from a height of about two hundred feet, and forming at the bottom a powerful torrent, which swept along through a fine border of vegetation in the direction of Bone. The poor independent inhabitants of that mountain had left their stone cottages and caves on the slope of the steep cliffs, and were busy, after the fertilising rain, with the labours of the field in their limited grounds, clearing them of the weeds. The crops promised well, and had a healthy appearance. When we disturbed these poor people in their labours, they retired behind the safeguard of their Cyclopean rocks, and stared at us with great curiosity, the unusual appearance of our whole train causing them a great deal of dismay; and it was in vain that we endea- voured by our gestures to persuade them to con- tinue their labours, as they did not understand us, z 4
344 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIII.
while we were greatly pleased to observe that, al- though pagans, they were decently clad with neat aprons of cotton round their loins.
Having at length joined our friends of yesterday, we pitched our linen tents, which greatly attracted their attention, at some distance from their leather dwellings, and were soon beset by numbers of the fair sex, some of whom were distinguished by their , plumpness, especially by that peculiar feature called ‘‘tebullodén,”’ which I mentioned on a former occasion ; but I was forced to frighten these fair visitors away, as, in consequence of the last day’s thunder-storm, I felt very unwell, and was obliged to have recourse to an emetic. As forthe men, their dress consisted through- out of a short shirt with short open sleeves, made of a coarse kind of broad cotton strips, only a few young lads, sons of the chief, wearing also, here in the en- campment, blue-dyed shirts, with a patch of red cloth to adorn the large breast-pocket. Their head-dress was likewise very poor, consisting not of a whole shawl, haram or tesilgemist, but of single cotton strips of various colours, blue, red, white, and of the mixed kind called ‘shahariye,” sewed together, only a few of them being able to add a strip of red cloth: for, altogether, these Tawarek are very fond of a variety of colours, a feature already observed by that most excellent geographer El Bekri*, and never leave the manufactured shirts of Nupe and Hausa as they receive them, with the exception of a few of the
* El Bekri’s “Description de ’ Afrique Septentrionale,” p. 118.
Cuar. LXIII. CONDUCT OF EL WALA‘TI. 345
greatest chiefs, who pride themselves in possessing a whole shirt of that kind. Owing to the swampy character of the neighbourhood, which produced countless hosts of mosquitoes, and to the number of hyenas, which frightened the cattle repeatedly, | passed a restless and sleepless night.
I was now in the hands of the Tawarek, py iaay, and my crafty Arab companion was enabled “¥s"st 12" to take full advantage of my dangerous situation. For, on the one hand, it had become necessary to re- present me to these simple people as a great sherif, and thus to excite their hospitable feelings, while at the same time he instigated me to reward their treat- ment in a generous manner, but nevertheless sold my presents to them as his own property. It required a great deal of patience and forbearance on my part, to bear up against the numerous delays in this part of our journey, and to endure the many tricks played upon me by the treachery of my companion, in order to prevent at least his proceeding to open violence. In this encampment he bartered the horse which I had bought for him at Libtako, for seven fat and powerful bulls, which, in Timbuktu, probably might fetch from 8000 to 10,000 shells each. ‘This business being at length settled, and the whole encampment breaking up, we proceeded onwards. The men were mostly mounted on horses of a small unsightly breed, but well adapted to bear fatigue, while the women were sitting astride on their household furniture, which was packed on oxen and asses. |
Proceeding thus slowly onward, our friends en-
346 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Guar. LXIII.
camped about a mile from their former resting-place, or ‘“Aamazagh,” close beyond.an extensive meadow-water which caused the young herbage to spring up all around, and full of holes, thus creating frequent delay.
Continuing, then, our journey alone, and ascéndiaal higher ground, where a little cultivation was being carried on by the slaves of the nomadic tribe which at present have taken possession of these grounds, and passing another encampment, we reached, after a march of about cight miles, the camp where we were to make another halt. It was situated in an open tract of ground called Imeggélelé, adorned only by a few stunted talha trees, while at some distance to the south a flat vale spread out, clothed with a greater profusion of vegetation, and affording rich pasture to
numerous flocks of sheep and goats. The whole tract forms a sort of irregular valley, bordered towards the north by a hilly chain of slight elevation, and towards the west by a cluster of flat-topped cones.
The camp was governed by three different chiefs, called Sitina, Jawi, and Feréferé,—the latter being
Cuap. LXII. PACK-OXEN. 347
a man of a very powerful frame. Several small pre- sents were necessary to satisfy them all. Besides, as the two pack-oxen which I had hired the day before were to return from this place, [ had to buy here two animals myself; and I had great difficulty, in the course of the following day, in concluding a bargain: but I at length succeeded in buying one bull, with a tobe worth here 6000 shells, and a ttirkedi of in- ferior quality worth 2000; and a second one, with three haf worth 4000, together with a turkedi worth 3500. This was not, however, their real value, but the price fixed by El Walati, who had himself a profit of at least fifty per cent. He also was the sole cause of my being detained here so long, as he wanted to sell the mare which he had brought with him from Bulanga; for horses constitute the chief article of trade with these people, and small Fulbe traders, or rather Jawambe or Zoghoran, visit them continually, bringing horses from Sofara and the country of Birgu, where the best animal fetches not more than about 80,000 shells, and bartering them with these people for cattle, and the first evening of our arrival a nu- merous troop of these native traders arrived. It was here that I observed, for the first time, some of the Tawarek clad entirely in shirts made of leather, which they are skilful in preparing.
The bargaining being at length concluded, gunaay, we got ourselves in readiness to pursue our “"S"* 14th, journey, when a violent thunder-storm, gathering from the north, kept us back till nearly noon. We at length
348 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIII.
set out; but the recently bought animals were so in- tractable that we only moved on at a very slow pace. We had first to retrace our steps a little to the east- ward, in order to cross the hilly chain which separated us from the sandy downs along the Niger; and had then to descend a very steep sandy slope, which brought us into an irregular valley, with the moun- tains of Dalla forming a conspicuous object towards the west. Having then turned round a mountain spur which stretched out into the plain on our right, we reached the encampment of Bélé, a powerful chief of the degraded tribe of the Haw-n-adak. His ex- terior had nothing of that noble appearance which so eminently distinguishes the higher class of these wild tribes, as he was of unwieldy corpulency, and of a rather short figure, resembling the famous South-African chief, Nangdédro, visited by Messrs. Galton and Ander- son. He received us, however, very hospitably, and proved to be rather an intelligent man; but, fortu- nately, he had not sufficient cleverness to discover that I was a Christian, although, from the very first moment when he beheld my luggage, he arrived at the firm conclusion that I was not what my companions re- presented me to be,—namely, a sherif from the far east; but he had made up his mind, on account of the little knowledge which I possessed of his language, and which I had not quite kept back before him, that I was a merchant, either from Ghadames or Mo- rocco, and it was quite amusing to me to hear him argue this point, while he affirmed with the greatest
Cuar. LXIII. BE’LE’ CHIEF OF HANS-N-A’DAK. 349
obstinacy, and with an oath, that I was a Shilluh, —a Berber from the north,—and wanted to re- present myself as a sherif, in order to pass through his tribe with less trouble and expense. He, as well as his people, became, by degrees, rather trouble- some; but they treated us well, sending us two pre- pared sheep, and large dishes of rice boiled in an abundance of butter, but without salt. The chief himself is said to consume every day a sheep, and the supply of milk from seven cows,—in this respect re- minding us of the Emperor Vitellius.
I presented to the chief a first-rate tur~ — yponaay, kedi, two black shawls, and a red cap; “%™*t 9th but as my fine horse excited his cupidity, we had some difficulty in getting away, and matters appeared for some time rather. serious. But having at length proceeded on our journey, after a little more than a mile, we ascended from the rich grassy plain, upon an undulating tract of deep sandy soil, richly clothed with mimosa and herbage, and broken now and then by a depression or cavity covered with the richest species of grass, called “banga.” Numerous flocks of sheep were pasturing here, and a servant of Bele, who accompanied us, felt no compunction in seizing the fattest specimen and slaughtering it. After a march of about eight miles, the poisonous euphorbia became very common; but we looked in vain for water, as we had taken no supply with us, and it was not till after a long march over the sandy downs, that we reached a pool of stagnant and dirty water. A
350 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap. LXIIU.
little more than two miles beyond, we came to another encampment of Tawarek. Here fortunately I found better rest than at Beélée’s, only a few people being present at the time. The chief, too, being of rather a subordinate character, raised his pretensions less high.
On account of their degraded character and their low condition in the scale of Tawarek society, these people were not even allowed to wear swords, which is the emblem of the free and noble Amdshagh, but, besides their spears, they are only armed with a long “ télak,” or knife, worn at the left arm. All the Tawarek hereabouts wear short narrow shirts, and short and tightly fitting trowsers ; and almost all of them wear round the lower and upper part of their face, a shawl composed of strips of different colours and materials, as I have stated above; only the chief himself uses a black tobe, and a shawl of the same colour. —
These various tribes pasture their cattle quite dif- ferently from each other. Most of the Tawarek, like the Fulbe in general, drive them out early in the morning, and fetch them home when the heat of the day commences, in order to milk them, after which the cattle are again driven out till evening ; but the people of this as well as of the last day’s encampment, pas- ture their cattle during the night, and fetch them home early in the morning for milking. We had a fine cool breeze in the evening, which refreshed me extremely while lying in front of my tent; but in the night a heavy thunder-storm broke out, followed by a moderate quantity of rain.
t a
Cuar. LX. TAWA’REK WOMEN AND BOYS. 3m
It was almost noon when we started, for as long as my friend El Walati had some- thing to sell, there was no chance of travelling, and in order to diminish my dissatisfaction, 1t was pre- tended that one of my pack-oxen was lost. Here my companion bartered his young camel for sixty sheep, and the bargain being at length concluded, we were allowed to proceed on our journey. But before setting out I had to give my blessing to the whole population of the encampment, male as well as female. Among the latter I discovered a few pretty young women, particularly one, who, together with her baby, formed a most pleasing spectacle, her beauty being enhanced by her extreme shyness in approaching me ; but their dress was very poor indeed, consisting of coarse cotton stuff, which was wrapped round the body and brought down over the head. All the boys under twelve years of age have the left side of their head entirely shaven, while from the crop on the right side a long curl hangs down.
At length we were again on the road, but our march, through a rather level tract of country, was only of short duration, and after a little more than six miles, having crossed a basin where a large sheet of water had collected, we again took up our quarters in another encampment the chief of which was stated to possess great authority, so that I had once more to give presents to the value of nearly 10,000 shells, besides a turkedi and “haf” to be given to the man belonging to Bélé, who had served us as a guide. I
August 16th.
352 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuav. LXTIL.
had likewise to send a present to a Tarki chief at some distance, in order to take every precaution recommended to me by my companion to insure my safety, although I felt certain that he himself applied the greater portion to his own use. It was thus that my supplies rapidly disappeared, and I had a fair prospect, if this state of things should continue for any length of time, of arriving in Timbuktu greatly lightened. We were however hospitably treated by our hosts, and were even regaled with the uncom- mon luxury of a large dish of “ megata,” a sort of _ maccaroni, prepared from wheat with a rich seasoning of butter, and famous since the time of El] Bekri. As a proof that we were approaching Timbuktu, I may mention that the people of this encampment were extremely anxious to get a sip of tea, which they called the water of Simsim, from the celebrated well of that name in Mekka. Another of my camels being knocked up, I here exchanged it for four bulls, one of which was fit for carrying burdens, being equal in value to two or three of the others; but I had after- wards a keen dispute on account of this bargain, the camel having subsequently died.
On setting out from this encampment, we kept at first a little more westward, thus leaving the district of Banséna, which formerly seems to have been of some importance, to the north, in order to avoid the encampment of I’so, a brother of Somki, who had sent a messenger the preceding day in order to invite us to pay him a visit. The district
August 17th.
Cuar. LXIIL. DISTRICT OF MI/NTA. 353
through which we passed is called Minta, and is rich in ironstone, while ruins of former smelting-places are seen in different localities; but it was extremely barren, extensive tracts of bleak native soil, called “néoa” or “hamraye,” fatiguing the eye under a hot African sun. Further on the soil became swampy, and bore frequent footprints of the elephant: but after a march of a little more than three miles, while we again returned into a northerly direction, we eritered an undulating sandy tract clothed with bushes, and two miles and a half beyond again en- camped on the site of a Tawarek dmazdgh. Here, after having made some presents, we were well treated, two sheep being slaughtered for us; but we passed a most uncomfortable night on account of the vast number of mosquitoes which infested the place.
We at length made a tolerable day’s qursaay, march in order to reach the small town of “us"st 18" Bambara, which forms the southernmost of the fixed settlements of the Songhay along the creeks and back- waters of the river in this part of the country. The district through which we passed in the beginning of our march formed a tolerable level, thickly over- grown with bushes and the feathery bristle, which gra- dually attained such a height, as to reach the rider on horseback. At times also the poisonous euphorbia pre- dominated, and after a march of about nine miles our old friend the hajilj, or Balanites cegyptiaca, which I did not remember to have seen since leaving Fécha, began to appear. But far more cheerful than the
VOL. IV. AA
354 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXTIf.
sight of this tree was the view of a large sheet of water, which appeared on our right about three miles further on, and which excited in me the first idea of the size and richness of the upper course of the Niger; it is here called Dé; but in its further course northwards, where the eye.could not reach the border, it bears the particular name of Siléddu, and at least at certain seasons of the year is in direct connection with the river.
Having then passed a small tract of cultivated ground and emerged from the undulating country, we obtained a sight of the town of Bambara, situated a little in front of a chain of hills, as represented in the accompanying woodcut. In an hour more we
reached the place, and at the instigation of our Arab companion fired a salute with our pistols, whereupon the principal individuals made their appearance, and we obtained quarters without further delay. The town or village consists partly of low clay buildings, partly of huts, but the inhabitants appear to dwell almost exclusively in the latter, using the clay dwellings, which generally consist of low, oblong, and flat-roofed buildings, as store-rooms or magazines for depositing
| | 3
Cuar. LXII BA’MBARA.—ITS IMPORTANCE. 355
their treasures; that is to say, their long rolls of cotton-strips, “leppi,” or “tari.” The dwelling also which was assigned to me consisted of a rather low dirty hut, which was anything but well ventilated, and proved almost insupportable during the hot hours of the day. But the clay soil in the courtyard was too hard for pitching my tent, and besides, it was not advisable to expose myself in this manner to the gaze of inquisitive and curious observers. The inhabitants of this place, almost all of whom are Fulbe, and on account of their large features evidently belong to the section of the Tordéde or Térobe, are ill-famed
as “ dhalemin,” or evil-doers. However, they are a
warlike set, and had succeeded a few months before in driving back the Awelimmiden, who had made a foray on a large scale against the place. But Bam- bara is important in an economical respect, for the inhabitants, besides possessing numerous cattle, cul- tivate a large extent of ground; even many of the people of Timbuktu have fields here, the transport of the grain being easy and cheap by means of the immense inland navigation which is formed by the many back-waters and branches of the Niger. But the neighbourhood of the place is very barren, and at that time especially, when no rain had fallen for some time, looked extremely dry, so that the camels had to be driven to a great distance to find pas- turage. Some Tawarek half-castes are also settled in the place, and they kept up dancing every evening till a very late hour.
356 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIII.
Bambara is called Hudari by the Tawarek or Imé- shagh, and Sukurara by the people of the kingdom of Bambara, the Bamanon, or as they are called by the inhabitants of Timbuktu, Benaber. Why the name Bambara has attached to this place in particular I cannot say, but probably the reason was, that the people of Bambara, who some seventy years ago conquered all this country to the south of the river, retained dominion of this town for a longer time than of any other place in the neighbourhood. There is no doubt that the Falbe, or Fullan, as well as the Songhay and Arabs, call the place only by the latter name.
I had to stay in Bambara several days, not at all for my own comfort, as I continually ran the risk of being recognised and identified, having been known as a Christian at the short distance of a few days’ journey from here. Nothing but the scanty intercourse which is kept up in this region made such a sudden change of character possible, for as yet I had nobody to protect me. But my friend El Walati, whose relation with the | inhabitants of this place was of a peculiar character, | derived the sole benefit from our stay. He had married here, four years previously, a rich wife, and had absconded with all her property: besides having seriously offended the powerful Tarki chief Somki. Having thus made himself so obnoxious to them, he - would not have been able to enter the place again, if he had not found an opportunity of enriching himself at my expense and enjoying the protection of my
Crap. LXIII. PERSONAL RELATIONS. al
company. However, it was only by degrees that I became acquainted with all these circumstances, while I had to bear silently all the intrigues of this man, my only object being to reach safely in his company the town of Timbuktu; but it was evident enough that he was continually wavering, whether it was not more profitable for him to deliver me into the hands of the Fulbe, as he knew well that in the town of Dar-e’- Salam, which was only thirty miles distant, there was a powerful governor, under the ruler of Masina, and himself a son of Mohammed Lebbo, who, at the first intelligence of my real character, would have cut short all my proceedings, and, in the most favourable case, would have sent me direct to his liege lord and nephew in Hamda-Allahi.
I had to make here some considerable presents to a number of people. There was first our host Jdbbo, who had given us quarters, and who treated us very hospitably ; then, the son of the chief or emir, who was absent in Hamda-Allahi; next, three kinsmen of the latter, who were represented to me as dhdlemin; and lastly, three Arabs from Timbuktu, who were staying here at the time, and whose friendly disposition I had to secure for some reason or other. One of the lat- ter was a very amiable young man, of the name of Mohammed el Amin, son of the learned kadhi Mus- tapha, and it was he, in particular, who gave me some information with regard to my friend El Walati, who, on his part, endeavoured to obtain the favour of this young man, by persuading me to make him a
AAS
358 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIII.
good present, and to commission him to take charge of my horse through the dangerous and watery tract of country from Saraydmo to Kabara. As for the second of these Arabs, he belonged to the small tribe of the Ansar, or, as they are generally called Lansar, —that most respected Arab tribe which, on account of its intimate connection with Mohammed, enjoyed everywhere and at all times great influence, but which is at present reduced to a very small fraction. He was a follower of Hammadi, the rival of the sheikh I] Bakay in Timbuktu, and seemed to be of such a hostile disposition towards my friend that the latter represented him to me as shamefully exiled from that town, and as totally disgraced. Besides these pre- sents to the inhabitants of the place, I had also to re- ward the various people who had accompanied us from the Tawarek encampments in order to show us the road, or rather to drive the sheep and cattle belonging to El Walati. But in return for all these presents I was at least treated hospitably and, for these coun- tries, even sumptuously ; and I was glad to find that the rice here, which constituted the chief article of food, was of excellent quality.
While we were staying in this place I received a visit from two Tawarek chiefs, who, owing to our slow progress, had heard of me, and came in order to ob- tain from me my blessing, but more particularly some presents. The chief of them was a very respectable- looking man, of the name of Mohammed, or Hema- hemé, with large open features, such as are never seen
Crar. LXII. THE ME’HEDI’ EXPECTED.—SOMKI. 359
among the Kél-owi, and of a tall stately figure. They behaved very friendly towards me, and one of them even embraced me very cordially; but the scale of their religious erudition was not very con- siderable, and I was greatly amused when El] Wa- lati, in order to get back from them his tobacco-pouch, which they had secretly abstracted from him, suddenly seized one of my books, which happened to be “ Lan- der’s Journey,” and, on threatening them with it as if it were the Kuran, the pouch was restored with- out delay.
I had been questioned repeatedly on my journey respecting the Méhedi, who was expected soon to appear; but these people here were uncommonly anxious to know something concerning him, and could scarcely be prevented from identifying me with this expected prophet, who was to come from the East.
They were scarcely gone when a messenger arrived from the great chief Somki, whose name had already filled my imagination for so long a time; and, at El Walati’s most urgent request, who did not fail to enhance the importance of this man as much as he was able, I prepared a considerable present, worth al- together 33,000 shells, which my friend was to take to him on the following day.
Now it would not have been at all necessary to have come into any contact with this chief, as the direct road to Timbuktu led straight from here, without touching at Saraydmo, near which place Somki had formed his encampment; but my friend
AA4
VE VACE NCE ua er iis. Ul he tag tedveh oh dee Ca aaNmNaL oy Re cot Nl Casein Se ROMS Se hedempus HLCP ENe CUSIRELE PRO ET r=
360 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIII.
represented the direct road from here to Timbuktu as leading along the encampments of several powerful chiefs, whom it would be more prudent to avoid; and perhaps he was right, not so much from the reason stated as on account of the water-communication be- tween Sarayémo and Timbuktu offering a great ad- vantage. In conformity with these circumstances, on the third day of our stay here, El Walati at length set out for the encampment of Somki, in order to ob- tain his protection, to enable me to pass safely through his territory ; and I sent along with him my faithful servant, Mohammed el Gatréni, whom I had just cured of a severe attack of dysentery, although I could not expect that he would be able to control the pro- ceedings of the crafty Arab, as he did not under- stand the language of the Tawarek. ‘They did not return until the third day, and gave me in the mean- time full leisure to study a little more accurately the relations of this place.
361
CHAP. LXIV.
THE NETWORK OF CREEKS, BACKWATERS, AND LAKES BELONG- ING TO THE NIGER. —SARAYAMO. — NAVIGATION TO KABARA.
On my first arrival at the town of Bambara, I had not been at all aware that it formed a most important point of my journey, it being for me, as proceeding from the south-east, what that celebrated creek three days west from Timbuktu was to the traveller from the north during the middle ages, and which on this account has received the name of “ Ras el ma.” The town of Bambara is situated on a branch, or rather a dead backwater of the river, forming a very shal-— low bottom of considerable breadth, but a very ir- regular border, and containing at that time but little water, so that the communication with the river was interrupted ; but about twenty days later in the season, for about four or five months every year, during the highest state of the imundation, the boats proceed from here directly, either to Dire by way of Galaye and Kanima, or to Timbuktu by way of Délego and Sarayamo, thus opening a considerable export of corn towards that dependent market-place, which again has to supply the whole of the nomadic tribes of A’zawad, and the neighbouring districts.
362 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cap. LXIV.
This shallow water is bordered on the west side by the hilly chain which I have mentioned before, and beyond there is another branch, which joins it to- wards the south. Such being the state of the water at present, there was no great activity, and two canoes only were lying here under repair, each of them being provided with two low chambers, or cabins, vaulted in with reeds and bushes, as I shall describe further on. Of course, when this basin is full of water, and navi- gated by numbers of canoes, the place must present quite another appearance, while at the time of my visit its shallow swampy state could not but increase the dulness of the whole neighbourhood, which had not yet been fertilised by the rainy season. I was assured by the inhabitants that only one plentiful shower had as yet fallen. This was the reason that, instigated by the absurd rumour which had preceded me that my favour with the Almighty was so great that it had some influence upon the fall of rain, all the inhabi- tants, although Mohammedans, assembled on the second day of El Walati’s absence, and, headed by the emir, came to me in procession, and solicited my in- terference in their behalf for a good shower of rain. I succeeded this time in eluding their solicitations for a direct prayer, satisfying them by expressing my fer- vent hope that the Almighty would have mercy upon them. But I was so favoured, that there was really a moderate shower in the evening, which did a great deal of good to the ground, although the air did not become much cooler, for it was excessively hot all
Cuar. LXIV. CHARACTER OF BA’MBARA. 363
this time, and sometimes almost insupportable in my narrow dirty hut. I remember in particular one miserable night which I spent-here, when, not being able to obtain a wink of sleep, | wandered about all night, and felt totally exhausted in the morning. Notwithstanding the swarms of mosquitoes, I after- wards preferred sleeping outside my hut, in order to inhale the slight refreshing breeze which used to spring up during the night. Unfortunately I had, to the best of my belief, long before broken my last thermometer, and was therefore unable, or rather believed myself unable, to measure the heat with accuracy, but it could certainly not be inferior to the greatest rate we had experienced in Kukawa. The whole country round about the village is very bleak, consisting chiefly of black argillaceous soil, such as is common in the neighbourhood of large sheets of water, and scarcely a single tree offers its foliage as a shelter from the rays of the sun.
I had also sufficient leisure to pay full attention to the trading relations of the inhabitants, which, at this time of the year, are rather poor; for although a daily market is held, it is on a very small scale, and, besides sour milk and salt, very little is to be found. Even Indian corn is not brought regularly into the market, although so much agriculture is going on in the neigh- bourhood, and I had to buy my supply from strangers who by chance were passing through the place, while for one of my oxen I got only as much as forty sha, or measures of corn: of rice, on the contrary, which
1 Oy AES S-3e. Ls
364 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXIV.
is extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood, the natives, even at this season, appeared to possess a sufficient supply. The standard currency consists of “tari,” that is to say, cotton strips two hands wide, of which, unfortunately, I did not possess the smallest quantity; it is only in purchasing sweet or sour milk that the inhabitants accept shells. Everything that is sold in the market is measured and inspected by an officer, who does not bear the same title by which he is known in the eastern countries of the Fulbe, viz. Jémido-lumu,” but is here called ‘‘ emiro-féba.”
A good deal of entertainment was afforded me by the daily turning out and bringing in of the se- veral divisions of the five herds of cattle which the place possessed. Three herds returned early in the morning from their pasture grounds, where they had been left during the night, in order to be milked ; and the two remaining ones were then turned out, in order to return during the heat of the day. But notwithstanding the considerable number of cattle which the place possessed, the drought was so great that there was only a small supply of milk at the time. |
At length, on the evening of the third day after their setting out, my two companions, whom I had sent to Somki, returned, and El Walati would fain have made me believe that that chief had at first most obstinately refused to receive the presents, and had peremptorily demanded that I should make him, in addition, a present of one of the horses; but the fact
Cnar. LXIY. INDISCREET INQUIRIES. 365
was, that he had persisted in representing that those presents did not come from me, but had employed them in order to make his own peace with that powerful chief, and to conclude some bargain with him. After all this, he had the insolence to propose that I also should go to that chief, in order to sur- render to him some more of my property as his own ; but I could not prevent it, and my only object was necessarily to get over my difficult situation as well as possible..
Having, after the return of my friend from — qhursday, his important embassy, still been obliged to Austst 25th. stay another day in this miserable place, and having had the misfortune to lose my best ox of burden, which E] Walati had sold to the Tawdrek who came along with us, pretending that it had been stolen, I at length set out on my journey to Sarayamo. But just as we were about to start, a circumstance happened which might have proved fatal to my further pro- ceedings; for, at the moment of departure, there ar- rived an Arab, a native of Tisit, who, besides having visited St. Louis, had made the pilgrimage to Mekka, and knew something about Europeans as well as about the Arabs of the East; and as I asked a great many questions about the ancient and celebrated town of Biru, and the modern Walata, he began to make some stricter inquiries concerning my native home, and the places from whence I had gathered my information ; for not having found any one on his journey towards the East who knew anything
366 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIV:
about the seats of these Western Arabs, while the general name of Shingiti is given to all of them, he was not a little astonished to find that I knew so much about his countrymen. However, my whole appearance inspired him with such confidence, that he continued to take great interest in me. He had already, the previous evening, sent me a fat sheep as a present, and he now accompanied me for a while, mounted on a beautiful white mare; but, as his com- pany prevented my laying down the route with ac- curacy, I persuaded him not to give himself any further trouble.
Having crossed a small watercourse, we soon reached a larger one, which formed a running stream, carrying the surplus of the shallow creek of Bambara towards a larger sheet, which, at the distance of a mile, we saw expand on our right. ‘The surface of the country was undulating, with granite cropping out here and there, and with a good supply of stunted mimosa, besides the poisonous euphorbia; but, about two miles beyond the open water, we descended into a more level tract, covered with nothing but dry and short herbage, and abundance of the obnoxious fea- thery bristle; but this is very favourable ground for the cattle, for they are not less fond of this bristle than their masters themselves are of the seed, called ‘“‘vizak,” which from the most ancient times* has constituted one of their chief articles of food. We
* See El Bekri’s “ Description of Africa,” ed. de Slane, p. 181.
Bac) ee wy ep) raced een wy 5 ae 38 rah ur eemne 3
Guar. LXIV. LAKE NYE/NGAY. 367
passed, also, the sites of several former Tawarek en- campments.
Having then entered a district where more dum- bush appeared, we ascended a sandy ridge, from whence we beheld, in front of us, an extensive sheet of water, stretching out toa distance of several miles, its surface agitated by a strong breeze, and with tall reeds forming its border. It is called Nyéngay by the Fulbe, and Isse-énga by the Tawarek, and is in con- nection with the branches of Bambara and Kanima, winding along from here by way of Galaye to the latter place, and from thence by way of Deélego to Sarayamo, and thus opening an uninterrupted navi- gable canal, at least during the highest state of the inundation; but it is said to be dreaded by the boat- men of the frail native craft, who never dare to cross it in a storm. It seemed, in a south-westerly direc- tion, from six to eight miles across, but towards the north-west it became contracted in such a manner, that at the narrowest place only two canoes can sail abreast; after which it turned away, and could not be further surveyed from this point.
Having followed the border of this fine and im- posing sheet of water, where numbers of people were catching fish, for about a mile and a half, we ascended the sandy downs on our right, and soon reached the encampment of Mohammed, the chief of the Kél-e’-suk, who a few days previously had paid me a visit in Bam- bara. Here I had to give away several more of my effects, but we were treated most hospitably, and even
368 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIV.
sumptuously, and besides two enormous bowls full of rice and meat, swimming in.an immense quantity of butter, a whole ox was slaughtered for us. The site of the encampment was very beautiful, and I walked for a long time about the downs, which were adorned with a rich profusion of trees of the acacia kind, and offered an interesting prospect over the lake; but the ensuing night was most miserably spent on account of the numerous swarms of mosquitoes which infested the encainpment.
We were very early in motion, but a heavy thunder-storm which gathered from the south-east delayed our departure, although, taking into account the slow rate at which I was here obliged to travel, it was a matter of total indifference whether we started early or late, as | was quite in the hands of my friend the Walati, who stopped wherever he had any business to transact, and did not set out again until he had concluded his bargain. The rain clouds then taking a more northerly direc- tion, we at length set out, pursuing our track over the hilly country, and while we lost sight of the lake of Nyéngay on our left, soon discovered on our right another but smaller sheet of water called Gérru. The Nyéngay is said to be full of water all the year round; but the Gérru becomes dry in sum- mer, when the inhabitants of Sarayamo repair hither in order to cultivate their rice-fields, the rice ripen- ing with the rising waters, and being cut shortly be- fore the river attains the highest state of inundation.
August 26th.
ee ee ee
Cuar. LXIV. CHARACTER OF COUNTRY. 369
Having left these interesting sheets of water be- hind us, we traversed a district more richly adorned with acacias, and crossed a valley where the siwak, or Capparis sodata (a bush which I scarcely remem- bered to have seen since my return from Kanem), was growing in great exuberance, besides numbers of gerredh, or the useful Acacia nilotica, but we searched in vain for water. The country also which we traversed from here onwards was chiefly clothed with the Capparis and the Mimosa nilotica, besides a good deal of dim-bush ; but, further on, we emerged from this undulating tract into an open swampy ground, at present tolerably dry, and covered with rich herbage, while we left on our right the site of the formerly important town Sama-koira*, which once lorded it over a considerable territory till it was destroyed by the Tawarek, when the remnant of its population escaped towards Bamba and Ghago.
In these open swampy meadow grounds, girt by a dense belt of gerredh, where no Arab would think of pitching his tent, was the encampment of the chief Somki, with his family and his followers (the tents of the kind I have described being just pitched), and his numerous herds of cattle grazing right and left, besides about twenty camels. We found the chief
* This is the name which the Songhay give to the place, “koira” meaning “town” in the Songhay-kini; while the Wangarawa and the Bambara call it S4ma-kanda, “kanda” meaning “country” or “district” in the Wakoré; and the Falbe, on account of the “swamp” which is formed here, Winde Same.
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370 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIV.
reclining on his “ teshégit” or divan of reeds, and as
soon as he beheld us, he rose and saluted El Walati and me. He was a man of middle stature, and of tolerably stout proportions, his white beard, which looked forth from under the litham, giving him a highly respectable appearance. He, however, did not show us any signs of hospitality, which vexed me the more, as, besides the considerable presents which I had sent to him a few days before, I had now again to make him another one, consisting of two ttrkedis and a haf; but I soon found that he was not aware of the former presents having been sent by me.
Being an intelligent man, who had had dealings with a great many people, he had some slight sus- picion that I was not what my companions repre- sented me to be. While I was sitting in my tent read- ing attentively a passage referring to these regions in the excellent little book of Mr. Cooley on the Negro- land of the Arabs, which has rendered me very great assistance in directing my inquiries in these countries, he made his appearance very abruptly, and seemed rather surprised at finding me reading characters which he well knew were not Arabic; but, nevertheless, he suppressed his suspicions. Perhaps in consequence of the intrigues of El Walati, he laid claims to the horse which I myself rode. The eagerness of the women hereabout to obtain tobacco was very remark- able, and they pestered my servants during a great part of the night.
Saturday, We set out on our last day’s journey by August 27th. Jand, in order to reach the place where
Cuar. LXIV. MOHAMMED BONYAMI. 371
we were to embark on the river. Having emerged from the low swampy ground, we entered again sandy downs, principally clothed with haskanit, da- mankadda, and bu-rékkeba or Panicum colonum, and, having left on one side a smaller channel, we reached the branch of Fatta, which extends almost as far as Sarayamo, running parallel to several other creeks, called after the villages Kasba, Haibéngo, and Bene- sénga, which intersect the district named Bdéddu. The water at first formed a narrow irregular chan- nel of about 200 yards wide, very much resembling an artificial canal, as is the case with a great many of these backwaters, but gradually it began to widen, affording excellent soil for the cultivation of rice. Between this channel and the river, there are se- veral other branches, which appear to join the creek which I navigated from Sarayamo. Altogether, in this level part of the Niger, the river appears to spread out in a labyrinth of channels and water- courses. As for the rice which was grown here ex- clusively, it appeared to have been just sown with the assistance of the dew, which suffices for its growth till the river rises and spreads its inundation. Here we passed a small village inhabited by a Tarki, or rather Kél-e’-suki, of the name of Mo- hammed Bonyémi, who has settled here with his property, and who, while we passed by, came out of his hut, and, astonished at my unusual appearance, and delighted at seeing a stranger from such a distance, entreated me in the kindest manner to
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372 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
stay with him a short time, so that I had in conse- quence great difficulty in pursuing my march. He was a very decent and venerable-looking old man, of short stout figure, and with benevolent features, but his dress was of the simplest kind, consisting of a white tobe and a black shawl. A good many horses were pasturing hereabout, but not, as it would seem, to the advantage of the rice grounds, as they fed mostly on the young shoots. Having then left this watercourse at some distance on our right, we reached three miles further on the town of Saraydmo, the chief place in the province of Kiso. A great many people being here collected at the news of our arrival, we fired a salute with our pistols, and after a little search, owing to the very low entrances of most of the huts which would not admit my luggage, ob- tained tolerable quarters.
The town of Sarayamo is formed by an inner city, kasr or “koira,” consisting of clay dwellings, very narrow and uncomfortable; and a large suburb on the east side formed of huts of large size, but all of them with very low doors. The courtyard where I was quartered: was situated at the western border of this eastern suburb, on a sloping ground, descending towards a small ravine which separates the suburb from the kasr, and contained at the time a small quantity of dirty water. This situation had the disadvantage that, from the opposite slope, every- thing that was done in my courtyard could be ob- served, and there were a great many curious people,
Cuap. LXIV. THE TOWN OF SARAYA’MO. 874
especially among the rising generation, who obtruded not a little on my privacy.
I had scarcely made myself comfortable, when I received a great number of visits; and it was not long before Mohammed Bonydmi arrived, mounted on a white mare. As El Waldti had persuaded me to take only one horse to Timbuktu, I sent two of my animals with this man to remain with him until my leaving that place, while I also intrusted to his care my five camels, to be taken to a brother of his.
While I was conversing with these people, my friend the Haj Biida arrived also, with whom I continued to pass for a Syrian sherif, although he thought it strange that I would not say my prayers with him in the courtyard.
Having enjoyed a good night’s rest, tole- — gunaay, rably free from mosquitoes, as I had shut *"s"st 28). my hut at an early hour, I took a walk down to the river, the morning being, as usual, cool and fresh, and a slight breeze having sprung up. The bank on which the town stands was, at present, from twenty-five to thirty feet above the level of the river ; but this elevation is of course greatly diminished by the rising of the inundation, the river reaching gene- rally to the very border of the village. That branch which is not in direct connection with the water of Fatta, along which our last day’s march had lain, had no current, and was about 200 yards in breadth. The communication by water along these shallow backwaters of the immense Niger just opening (for
BB 3
374. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
in the dry season the connection is interrupted), only one sea-worthy boat was lying here at the time, neither conspicuous for its size nor for its comfortable arrangement, and with two cabins of matting, one in the prow and one in the stern, while another boat, measuring forty feet by eight, was just repairing. All the craft are built of planks sewed or tied together in a very bungling manner.
I learned, on this occasion, that it is only at this — season of the year that people go from here to Tim- buktu, which lies almost exactly north from this place, by an eastern winding; while later in the season they follow a westerly branch. A labyrinth of creeks, backwaters, and channels is in this manner spread over the whole of this country, of which people had no previous idea.
I had scarcely returned to my quarters, when the governor, or emir, of the place came to pay me a visit. This man, whose name was ‘Othman, was a cheerful kind of person. He stands in direct subjection to the chief of Hamda-Allahi, without being dependent upon any other governor; and his province comprises some other places in the neighbourhood, such as Fatta, Horeséna, and Kabéka. Having made strict inquiries with regard to the present state of affairs in Stambul, and having asked the news respecting the countries of the East in general, he left me, but returned again in the course of the afternoon, accompanied by the chief persons in the town, in order to solicit my aid in procuring rain. After a long conversation about the
Cuar. LXIV. VARIOUS PERFORMANCES. BY A)
rainy season, the quantity of rain which falls in dif- ferent countries, and the tropical regions especially™, I felt myself obliged to say before them the “ fat-ha,” or opening prayer of the Kuran; and, to their great amusement and delight, concluded the Arabic prayer with a form in their own language, — “ Alla hokki ndiam,’—which, although meaning originally ‘God may give water,” has become quite a complimentary phrase, so that the original meaning has been almost lost, few people only being conscious of it. It so hap- pened that the ensuing night a heavy thunder-storm gathered from the east, bringing a considerable quan- tity of rain, which even found its way into my badly thatched hut. This apparent efficacy of my prayer induced the inhabitants to return the following day, | to solicit from me a repetition of my performance; but I succeeded in evading their request by exhorting them to patience. But, on the other hand, I was obliged, in addition to a strong dose of emetic, to give the governor my blessing, as he was going to the capital, and was rather afraid of his liege lord the young prince A’hmedu, while at the same time his overbearing neighbours the Tawarek inspired him with a great deal of fear. In the sequel, he was very well received in the capital, and therefore could not complain of the inefficacy of my inspiration ; but nevertheless, not having had the slightest suspicion
* On this occasion I learned from the Haj of Tisit, who was pre- sent, that in his desert town there are in general three falls of rain every year.
BB 4
376 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIV.
that Iwas not what I represented myself to be, he was much shocked when he afterwards learned that I was a Christian, to the great amusement of the Sheikh el Bakay, who wrote to him repeatedly to the effect that he ought to be well pleased that so wicked a person as a Christian had procured him, not only rain, but even a good reception from his superior.
The town is tolerably flourishing, and the Fulbe inhabitants, at least, possess a great number of horses. We counted, one evening, ninety returning from the pasture-grounds, while a good many more remained outside at a greater distance. The Fulbe here be- long to the following tribes: Uromange, Rilambe, Oromandabe, Koirdbe, Feroibe, Balambe, Orohabe, and U’rube. The whole population of the place may amount to about 5000; but there did not appear to be many manufactures; even the native cloth, so well woven by the Songhay, is not manufactured here.
The situation of the town at this navigable branch, however, produces some activity, although no regular market appears to be held: and, the second day of my stay here, a large boat arrived from Timbuktu, with eighteen ras (a piece welghing about sixty pounds) of salt, a large parcel of tobacco, and a good number of passengers. Shells have currency here, and I bought rice for fourteen hundred shells and a turkedi, at the rate of forty shells for each saa, or measure. Rice constitutes the chief article of food, although on the west side of the town some negro-corn is cul- tivated. Milk is plentiful.
Cuar. LXIV. EMBARK ON THE CREEK. 377
The town of Dar-e’-salam, or Dari, the residence of ‘Abd-e’-rahman, the son of Mohammed Lebbo, lying on the bank of the river itself, is at a distance of thirteen hours on horseback from here, equal to about thirty miles, by way of Tatba.
Having succeeded in hiring the boat which had come from Timbuktu for the exclusive use of my own party, for 10,000 shells, I prepared my luggage, which, al- though now greatly reduced from the respectable bulk which it presented when setting out from Katsena, was still sufficient to inspire me with the hope that I might succeed in securing the friendship of the more influential chiefs of these regions: and in the evening of the last day of August I went on board of my small craft, and passed there a very comfortable night. Theriver, during the time of my residence in the place, had risen considerably, and soon promised to open the communication by the western branch.
After a good deal of delay, we at length — phursaay, began our voyage about a quarter before September 1st. eight in the morning; and I felt my spirits greatly cheered when I found myself floating on this river, or backwater, which was to carry me all the way to the harbour of Timbuktu. The river near the town forms a fine open sheet, widening to about 300 yards; but further on, as we were winding along in a north- easterly direction, it was greatly obstructed with rank grass, or rather byrgu, which very often covered the water entirely, so that the boat seemed to glide along a grassy plain. It was quite out of the question to
378 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
use oars. We were therefore reduced to the necessity of proceeding with poles, generally moving at the rate of two miles and a third an hour, but very often less Besides the byrgu, which constitutes the chief fodder for horse and cattle in all the districts along the Niger, and which even furnishes man with the sweet beve- rage called “ménshu” and a sort of honey called “Kartu,” white water-lilies, or Vymphea Lotus, were in great quantities; and, between the latter, the water- plant “ serranfusa,” which, being about ten inches long, floats on the water without having its roots fixed in the ground. But, after a voyage of about three miles, we emerged from the reedy water of Sarayamo into a more open branch, said to be that of Bambara, which here joined it. According to some of my informants, this water is identical with the Gérru, which I have mentioned on a former occasion. Here the eastern bank became quite free from reed-grass, while a herd of gazelles was to be seen near the shore; the western bank, meanwhile, being adorned with numerous dum- palms, gawo, and tamarind trees, or, as they are called here, bustisu; while, further on, the ascending ground was covered with “tunfafia” (Asclepias gigan- tea), ‘retem” (or broom), and “ damankadda.” But after a while, when rank grass again began to pre- vail, this arm also became greatly obstructed, being separated by the grass into several branches. ‘The water being only from five to seven feet deep, we proceeded rather slowly onward, winding along in a northerly direction, at times diverging more to the
Cuar. LXIV. CHARACTER OF THE CREEK. 379
west, at others more to the east; till about an hour after noon we reached the small town of F atta, situ- ated on the eastern shore, and surrounded by exten- sive rice-grounds, where the people were busy with the labours of the field.
The river here changes its direction to the west, being probably joined by another branch, which, however, I did not see, and we began steering in that direction, soothing our disappointment at not moving directly towards the object of our voyage with the animated songs of our boatmen, who accompanied the movements of their oars with a barbarous, but not unmelodious, account of the deeds of the great A’skia. A great many herds of cattle were to be seen on the left or southern side of the river, and gave life to the scenery. Our living also was not so bad, a couple of fine fishes, which we had succeeded in buying from some fishermen, having been prepared over the fire and affording us an excellent dinner.
_ The farther we proceeded onward the more the
channel widened, becoming free from reeds, although occasionally adorned by a floating layer of water-lilies. However, beyond the village of Gurijigge, or Guri- digge, the current became so strong that, in order to avoid it, we chose rather to enter the reeds, which broke the force of the water. It is natural that, as this is not a river of itself fed by its own sources, but merely a backwater caused by the overflow of the great river, the current in general must come from the latter, and proceed inland.
380 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
Having kept for some time along the reed-grass of the southern shore in a winding direction, we again emerged into open water, where the poles of our boatmen, which measured about eighteen feet in length, found no bottom; and we kept steadily on, although occasionally quite alarmed by our south- westerly direction, which threatened to carry us rather to Hamda-Allahi than to Timbuktu; till at length, a few miles on this side of the town of Goilo, we changed our direction to W.N.W., and, passing some floating reed islands, seemed to be in a fair direction to reach the chief object of our journey. But a storm that had been gathering induced us with the approach of night to moor the boat in a wide grassy creek of the eastern shore, in order to shelter our- selves from the strong wind, which easily upsets this light craft. Four fishing-boats were lying not far from us, and with their lights gave us a feeling of society ; but the numerous swarms of mosquitoes molested us not a little, and the barking of an animal in the water greatly excited my curiosity. On inquiry, I learned that it proceeded from the young alligators, or rather zangway.
These boats have no means of approaching the shallow shore. Hence it is necessary for the pas- sengers, two or three times a day, to wade through deep water backwards and forwards. This, coupled with the great quantity of water continually filling the bottom of these boats, is the reason why all the people who travel along the Niger are subject to
RE aE NE AF Gp ke Pe ee ee ee ae 7 i: => ae x Bs cs tae
Cuap. LXIV. VERY WINDING COURSE. 381
rheumatism. The governor of Say, as I have already mentioned, in consequence of his voyage up the river to Gagho, had become quite lame.
It was a quarter to seven o'clock in the morning when we left the sea of reeds * in which we had moored our vessel, which, in the ab- sence of an anchor, is done by fixing a pole on each side of the prow, and one at the stern of the boat. We began our day’s voyage by slowly gliding along the river, by the strength of a local current, which ran at the rate of about two miles an hour; but soon our boatmen began to make use of their oars, and we advanced with more rapidity. The open channel was here quite close to the eastern shore, the uniform level of which was broken by a hilly eminence covered with fine fields of millet, when we saw upon our left a smaller arm of the considerable chan- nel running from the south-west. This, on inquiry, I found was in connection with that very water- course which, at a later season, forms the general high road of those people who go from Saraydmo to Timbuktu. Even at this season of the year this branch is preferred by those who come from the north. Having passed this branch we halted awhile at the western shore, where, at a short distance inland, there is a small village called Koito, sur- rounded by fine trees.
After a short delay we set out again on our zig- zag voyage, while one of our boatmen, his harpoon in hand, proceeded on a fishing expedition. From
Friday, September 2nd.
382 - TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuarp. LXIV:;
a wide open water we soon got into a narrow channel, while the grassy expanse spread out on each side to a great extent; and, making our way with great difficulty, we emerged into a wide open branch, much more considerable than the one along which our course had lain, it being the principal trunk of the westerly watercourse of Sarayémo. As soon as we had entered it, some large specimens of the alligator tribe afforded proofs of a more ex- tensive sheet of water, while the current, which at first was running against us, was so considerable that we advanced rather slowly. The whole breadth of the river or channel, forming one large unbroken sheet of water, was certainly not less than from 600 to 700 yards, while the depth in the midst of the channel, at least as far as I had an opportunity of judging from the poles of our boatmen, measured fourteen feet and a half, and at times even as much as eighteen, and probably more. The banks were en- livened by men and horses, and we passed an encamp- ment of herdsmen with their cattle. The western shore especially was adorned with a profusion of dum-palms, besides fine tamarind trees, sarkakdaya, and others of unknown species. Thus repeatedly delayed by shifting sands obstructing the channel of the river, we moved on in a tolerably direct northerly course, till we reached the village of Menesengay, situated on sandy downs about twenty feet high, beyond a deep gulf of the westerly shore. The low grassy ground on the eastern side formed the
Cuap. LXIV. ANIMATED SCENERY. 383
place of resort for numbers of pelicans, and the lower ground emerging at present only three feet out of the water, was enlivened by numbers of water-birds, which were looking out greedily for their prey.
Here we again changed our course, following a great many windings, but proceeding generally in an easterly direction. But now the watercourse began to exhibit more and more the character of a noble river, bordered by strongly marked banks, clad with fine timber, chiefly tamarind and kana trees, and occasionally enlivened by cattle. Our voyage was very delightful, gliding, as we were, smoothly along the surface of the water, and keeping mostly in the middle of the noble stream, our boatmen only changing their course once to touch at the northern shore, in order to procure for a few shells the luxury of some kola nuts, of which even these poor people were by no means insensible. At length, having passed be- tween the villages of Haibédngu on the northern, and Dara-kaina on the southern, shore, we again exchanged - our south-easterly direction for a more northerly one, proceeding along a very broad watercourse; but, after a while, the open water was broken by a broad grassy island, which left only a small channel on the west side, while that on the east was of tolerable width. Meanwhile the evening was approaching, and we met with several delays, once in order to buy some fish, and another time on account of our boatmen having lost their harpoon, with which they occasionally endeavoured to catch some large species
384 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
of fish which were swimming alongside our boat. They were very dexterous in diving, although it required some time for them to ascertain the spot _ where the slender instrument had been fixed in the bottom. This harpoon was exactly similar to the double spear used by some divisions of the Batta, one of the tribes of A’damawa, such as the Bagelé, and even by some of the inhabitants of Bérnu.
We had now entered a splendid reach of the river, which, almost free from reeds, extended in an easterly direction, and we glided pleasantly along the smooth water at a short distance from the northern bank, which was thickly clad with trees; till at length, darkness setting in, we struck right across the whole breadth of the river, which now, in the quiet of the evening, spread out its smooth unrippled surface like a beautiful mirror, and which at this place was cer- tainly not less than 1000 yards broad, straight for the evening fires of the village Banay, which was situated on the opposite bank, and we moored our vessel at the north-easterly bend of the gulf round which the town is situated. Most of our party slept on shore, while others made themselves as comfortable as pos- sible in the boat, and on the top of the matting which formed the cabins.
Here we awoke the next morning with a beautiful clear sky, and quietly enjoyed for a few hours the fine river scenery, bordered by a rich belt of vegeta- tion, while our boatmen endeavoured to replace one of their poles, which they had broken, by a new one,
AN FS
Cnar. LXIV. TOWN OF BANA’Y. 885
and after some time succeeded in getting one which measured twenty-one feet. The town or village itself is inhabited by Songhay and Fulbe, the latter being in possession of numerous flocks and herds. The cattle being just collected on the sandy beach near the river, were milked soon after sunrise, and furnished me with a draught of that delicious beverage, which must always constitute one of the greatest luxuries to a European traveller in these countries.
The chief part of the village extended along the bay to the south, at the point where we had moored our boat; but there was a suburb of detached huts, chiefly inhabited by Tawdarek, and this part of the shore was beautifully adorned with large trees. When we at length continued our voyage, we observed also a great many dum-palms, which served to further em- bellish the country, while kadéna, or tdéso, seemed to form the staple produce of the inhabitants, and thickly lined the shores. The scenery was the more interest- ing, as, besides boys who were playing in the water, a numerous herd of cattle were just swimming across the river, which to animals not accustomed to such a task, would have been rather a difficult undertaking ; and, even as it was, the people who accompanied them in boats had some difficulty in inducing them to con- tinue their fatiguing trip when they once began to feel exhausted, especially as they were accompanied by their young calves. However, in these regions along the Niger, with its numerous channels, backwaters, and swamps, man as well as beast must be accustomed
VOL. IV. G70
386 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
to swimming. I took great pains to discover whether there was any current here, but I did not succeed in ascertaining the fact; and altogether, in this network of creeks and backwaters, the current seems to be very uncertain, going in on one side and out on the other, notwithstanding that we were now approaching the trunk of the river, following in general a northerly direction with a slight westerly deviation. The gradually sloping bank was here covered with the dense rich bush called bégina by the Songhay.
But at present these shores, once animated with the bustle of many larger and smaller villages of the native Songhay, were buried in silence and solitude, a turbulent period of almost 200 years having suc- ceeded to the epoch when the great Songhay king, Mohammed el Haj A’skia, held the whole of these regions under his powerful sway. No less than four dwelling-places* along this tract of the river had been destroyed on one and the same day by the father of Galdijo, the prince whom we had met on our journey a short distance from Say. A solitary ante- lope, with her young, was the only living being in the present state of desolation that we observed during several hours’ navigation, but the banks were occasionally lined with fine trees. Besides the tama- rind tree, a tree called bégi appeared in great quan- tities ; it bears a yellow fruit about the size of a pear, having four or five large kernels, and which, on
* These places are Bango, Ujinne, Gakoira, and another one.
Cuar. LXIV. ISLAND OF KORA. 387
account of its pleasant acid taste, afforded us a very refreshing treat.
Having met with a short delay, in consequence of a thunderstorm which brought us but little rain, we observed the island of Kéra, which lies at the mouth of this channel, and the main river ahead of us, the water increasing in breadth, while one arm branches off round the south-western part of the island, present- ing here the appearance of an inland sea. But we had scarcely caught a glimpse of the great river itself, when a second and heavier thunderstorm, which had long been gathermg, threatened to break forth, and obliged us to seek shelter in the grassy eastern shore of the main. We had scarcely fastened the boat, when the rain came down in torrents, and lasted with great violence for nearly two hours, so that my berth was entirely swamped, and I remained in a most un- comfortable state during the whole of the night.
The weather having cleared up, we set gunaay, out at an early hour, following a north- September 4th. easterly direction through an open water not ob- structed by reeds, but soon halted again for prayer near the green bushy shore; while from the opposite side of the island of Kora, the lowing of cattle, cackling of fowls, and the voices of men were distinctly to be heard, the island being still tolerably well inhabited and the people being said to possess even a good number of horses. It was of considerable interest to me here to fall into the course pursued by that very meritorious French traveller, Réné Caillié, on his toil-
Coc 2
388 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIV.
some and dangerous journey through the whole west- ern part of the continent of Africa, from Sierra Leone to Morocco; and it is an agreeable duty for me to confirm the general accuracy of his account. Following close upon the track of the enterprising and intelligent, but unfortunate Major Laing, who had been assassinated two years previously on his des- perate journey from Timbuktu, Caillié naturally ex- cited against himself the jealousy of the English, to whom it could not but seem extraordinary that a poor unprotected adventurer like himself should suc- ceed in an enterprise where one of the most cou- rageous and nobleminded officers of their army had succumbed.
Gliding slowly along the channel, which here was about 600 yards in width, and gradually exchanging the eastern shore for the middle of the stream, we observed after a few miles’ advance the first river- horses, or banga, that we had as yet seen in the Niger, carrying their heads out of the water like two — immense boxes, and rather frightening our boatmen, who did not seem to relish a ¢éte-a-téte with these animals, till I sent a ball after them.
Passing then the site of the former town of Gakoira, near which the people were busy with the labours of the rice-fields, and having again landed on the opposite shore, which was covered with numerous kalgo trees, in order that the lazy boatmen might get their break- fast with comfort and ease, we had to follow a large bend of the river where the town of Danga is situated
Cuap. LXIV. SANYA’RE.—-THE NIGER. 389
on the right, beyond a swampy low ground. This is probably the same town so repeatedly mentioned in the interesting records of Baba A’hmed, especially as the residence of the Pullo chief, Sambo Lamido, who at the period of the ruin of the Songhay empire was the chief instrument in achieving that destruc- tion. We then crossed from here to the other side, and passed the town of Sanydre on a projecting head- land, which at times appears to be changed into an island, and containing, besides a good number of reed huts, even a few clay dwellings. Here our people indulged in the hope of procuring some tobacco, but were sadly disappointed, the natives being too much afraid of their fanatical master, the Shékho A’hmedu ben A’hmedu.
Having left this village behind us, we entered a fine northerly reach belonging to the branch which was finally to carry us into the great river itself, and left the town of Sanydre beyond the shallow sandbank, conspicuous on account of a group of ma- jestic tamarind trees. Here the inhabitants wanted to barter some sour milk for negro corn, which to them, with their ordinary diet of rice, seemed to be a luxury. Having lost some time, we at length had the broad sheet of the Niger before us; and here, at the point of junction, there started forth from the easterly shore a group of solitary trees, which appeared to form the usual nocturnal place of resort for all the water-fowl in the neighbourhood, the trunk as well as the branches of the trees being
CrG—a
390 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Crap. LXIV.
overlaid with a white crust formed by the droppings of these visitors, which with animated cries were col- lecting together towards the close of the evening. Having here left the shore, which at present formed a low and bare headland, but which in the course of a month would be entirely under water, we at once entered the middle of that magnificent river the I’sa, or Mayo Balléo, running here from W. 35° 8. to E. 35° N., which has excited the lively curiosity of Eu- ropeans for so many years. It was at this spot about a mile across, and by its magnitude and solemn mag- nificence in the new moon which was rising in front of us, and with the summer lightning at times break- ing through the evening sky, mspired my servants with real awe and almost fright; while we were squatting on the shelving roof of our frail boat, and looked with searching eyes along the immense expanse
of the river in a north-easterly direction, where the
object of our journey was said to lie.
Whether from the excitement of the day, or from the previous night’s wetting, when at length we lay to at the ancient Songhay town of Koiretago, which had once been a place of importance, but had been almost destroyed by the Fulbe in conjunction with the Tarki chief Somki, I was seized with a severe at- tack of fever, but in order to take care of my lug- gage I was unwilling to go on shore, where I might
have lain down on a fine sandy beach, choosing rather
to remain on board our frail boat.
391 CELAE.: DOG: ARRIVAL AT KABARA, — ENTRANCE INTO TIMBUKTU.
Tuus the day broke which, after so many eptember 7th, months’ exertion, was to carry me to ‘**
the harbour of Timbuktu. We started at a tolerably early hour, crossing the broad sheet of the river, first in a north-easterly, then in an almost north- erly direction, till finding ourselves opposite the small hamlet Tasakal, mentioned by Caillié*, we began to keep along the windings of the northern bank which, from its low character, presented a very varying appearance, while a creek, separating from the trunk, entered the low ground. The river a month or two later in the season inundates the whole country to a great distance, but the magni- ficent stream, with the exception of a few fishing- boats, now seemed almost tenantless, the only objects which in the present reduced state of the country animated the scenery being a number of large boats lying at anchor in front of us near the shore of the village Koréme. But the whole character of the river was of the highest interest to me, as it dis-
* Caillié’s Journey to Timbuktu, vol. ii. p. 30. cc 4
392 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXV.
closed some new features for which I had not been prepared; for, while the water on which Koréme was situated formed only by far the smaller branch, the chief river, about three quarters of a mile in breadth, took its direction to the south-east, separated from the former by a group of islands called Day, at the headland of which lies the islet of Tarasham.*
It was with an anxious feeling that I bade fare- well to that noble river as it turned away from us, not being sure whether it would fall to my lot to explore its further course, although it was my firm intention at the time to accomplish this task if pos- sible. Thus we entered the branch of Koréme, keep- ing along the grass which here grows in the river to a great extent, till we reached the village, consisting of nothing but temporary huts of reed, which, in the ~ course of a few weeks, with the rising of the waters, were to be removed further inland. Notwithstanding its frail character, this poor little village was in- teresting on account of its wharfs, where a number of boats were repairing. The master of our own craft residing here (for all the boatmen on this river are serfs, or nearly in that condition), we were obliged to halt almost an hour and a half; but in order not to excite the curiosity of the people, I thought it prudent to remain in my boat. But even there I was incommoded with a great number of visitors, who were very anxious to know exactly
* «'TSyasham” means a house or dwelling.
Fen 4 oe
as
eh alm
Cuar. LXV. KORO’ME BRANCH OF THE NIGER. 393
what sort of person I was. It was here that we heard the unsatisfactory news that El Bakay, whose name as a just and intelligent chief alone had given me confidence to undertake this journey, was absent at the time in Gundam, whither he had gone in order to settle a dispute which had arisen between the Tawarek and the Berabish; and as from the very beginning, when I was planning my journey to Tim- buktu, I had based the whole confidence of my suc- cess upon the noble and trustworthy character which was attributed to the Sheikh El Bakay by my in- formants, this piece of information produced a serious effect upon me.
At length we set out again on our interesting voyage, following first a south-easterly, then a north- easterly direction along this branch, which, for the first three miles and a half, retained some impor- tance, being here about 200 yards wide, when the channel divided a second time, the more considerable branch turning off towards Yélluwa and Zegalia, and other smaller hamlets situated on the islands of Day, while the watercourse which we followed dwindled away to a mere narrow meadow-water, bearing the appearance of an artificial ditch or canal, which, as I now heard, is entirely dry during the dry season, so that it becomes impossible to embark directly at Kabara for places situated higher up or lower down the river. But at that time I had formed the erroneous idea that this canal never became na- vigable for more than four months in the year,
394 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Car. LXV.
and thence concluded that it would have been im- possible for Caillié to have reached Kabara in his boat in the month of April. The navigation of this water became so difficult, that all my people were obliged to leave the boat, which, with great difficulty was dragged on by the boatmen, who themselves entered the water and lifted and pushed it along with their hands. But before we reached Kabara, which is situated on the slope of a sandy eminence, the narrow and shallow channel widened to a tolerably large basin of circular shape; and here, in front of the town, seven good-sized boats were lying, giving to the whole place some little life. Later in the season, when the channel becomes navigable for larger boats, the intercourse becomes much more ani- mated. During the palmy days of the Songhay em- pire, an uninterrupted intercourse took place between Gagho and Timbuktu on the one side, and between Timbuktu and Jenni on the other, and a numerous fleet was always lying here under the orders of an admiral of great power and influence. The basin has such a regular shape, that it looks as if it were artificial; but, nevertheless, it may be the work of nature, as Kabara from the most ancient times has been the harbour of Timbuktu, and at times seems even to have been of greater importance than the latter place itself.
A branch of the river turns off to the east, with- out however reaching the main trunk, so that in
eet SL ENSESIGIS 207.
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Cuar. LXV. ARRIVAL AT KA’BARA. 395
general, except when the whole country is inundated, boats from Kabara which are going down the river must first return in a south-westerly direction to- wards Koréme, in order to reach the main branch. Even at the present time, however, when this whole region is plunged into an abyss of anarchy and mis- rule, the scene was not entirely wanting in life; for women were filling their pitchers or washing clothes on large stones jutting out from the water, while a number of idle people had collected on the beach to see who the stranger was that had just arrived.
At length we lay to, and sending two of my people on shore, in order to obtain quarters, I followed them as soon as possible, when I was informed that they had procured a comfortable dwelling for me. The house where I was lodged was a large and grand building (if we take into account the general rela- tions of this country), standing on the very top of the mound on the slope of which the town is situ- ated. It was of an oblong shape, consisting of very massive clay walls, which were even adorned, in a slight degree, with a rude kind of relief; and it in- cluded, besides two anterooms, an inner courtyard, with a good many smaller chambers, and an upper story. The interior, with its small stores of every kind, and its assortment of sheep, ducks, fowls, and pigeons, in different departments, resembled Noah’s ark, and afforded a cheerful sight of homely comfort which had been preserved here from more ancient and
396 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuarp. LXV.
better times, notwithstanding the exactions of Fulbe and Imédshagh.
Having taken possession of the two ante-rooms for my people and luggage, I endeavoured to make my- self as comfortable as possible; while the busy land- lady, a tall and stout personage, in the absence of her husband, a wealthy Songhay merchant, endea- voured to make herself agreeable, and offered me the various delicacies of her store for sale; but these were extremely scanty, the chief attraction to us, besides a small bowl of milk seasoned with honey, being some onions, of which I myself was not less in want than my people for seasoning our simple food; but fresh ones were not even to be got here, the article sold being a peculiar preparation which is imported from Sansandi, the onions, which are of very small size, being cut into slices and put in water, then pounded in a wooden mortar, dried again, and, by means of some butter, made up into a sort of round ball, which is sold in small pats of an inch and a half in diameter for five shells each: these are called “lawashi” in Fulfulde, or ‘ gabu” in the Songhay language. Be- sides this article, so necessary for seasoning the food, I bought a little bulanga, or vegetable butter, in order to light up the dark room where I had taken up my quarters; but the night which I passed here was a very uncomfortable one, on account of the number of mosquitoes which infest the whole place.
Thus broke the 6th of September,—a very import- ant day for me, as it was to determine the kind of
Cuar. LXV. DESCRIPTION OF KA’BARA. 397
reception I was to meet with in this quarter. But notwithstanding the uncertainty of my prospects, I felt cheerful and full of confidence; and, as I was now again firmly established on dry soil, I went early in the morning to see my horse, which had success- fully crossed all the different branches lying between Kabara and Sarayamo; but I was sorry to find him in a very weak and emaciated condition.
While traversing the village, I was surprised at the many clay buildings which are to be seen here, amounting to between 150 and 200; however, these are not so much the dwellings of the inhabitants of Kabara themselves, but serve rather as magazines for storing up the merchandise belonging to the people of, and the foreign merchants residing in, Timbuktu and Sansandi. There are two small market-places, one containing about twelve stalls or sheds, where all sorts of articles are sold, the other being used exclu- sively for meat. Although it was still early in the day, women were already busy boiling rice, which is sold in small portions, or made up into thin cakes boiled with bulanga, and sold for five shells each. Almost all the inhabitants, who may muster about 2000, are Songhay ; but the authorities belong to the tribe of the Fulbe, whose principal wealth consists of cattle, the only exception being the office of the in- spector of the harbour,—a very ancient office, repeat- edly mentioned by A’hmed Babd,— which at present is in the hands of Mulay Kasim, a sherif whose family is said to have emigrated originally from the Gharb or
398 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. - Car. LXV.
Morocco, but who has become so Sudanised that he has forgotten all his former knowledge of Arabic. On account of the cattle being driven to a great distance, I found that milk was very scarce and dear. The in- habitants cultivate a little rice, but have some cotton, besides bAmia, or Corchorus olitorius, and melons of various descriptions.
Having returned to my quarters from my walk through the town, I had to distribute several presents to some people whom El Walati chose to represent as his brothers and friends. Having then given to him- self a new, glittering, black tobe of Nupe manufacture, a new “haf,” and the white bernis.which I wore my- self, I at length prevailed upon him to set out for the town, in order to obtain protection for me; for as yet I was an outlaw in the country, and any ruffian who suspected my character might have slain me, without scarcely anybody caring anything about it; and cir- cumstances seemed to assume a very unfavourable aspect: for there was a great movement among the Tawarek in the neighbourhood, when it almost seemed as if some news of my real character had transpired. Not long after my two messengers were gone, a Tarki chief, of the name of Knéha, with tall and stately figure, and of noble expressive features, as far as his shawl around the face allowed them to be seen, but, like the whole tribe of the Kél-hekikan to which he belongs, bearing a very bad character as a freebooter, made his appearance, armed with spear and sword, and obtruded himself upon me while I was
Cuar. LXV. UNWELCOME VISITORS. 399
partaking of my simple dish of rice ; notwithstanding which, he took his seat at a short distance opposite to me. Not wishing to invite him to a share in my poor frugal repast by the usual ‘ bismillah,” I told him, first in Arabic and then in Fulfulde, that I was dining, and had no leisure to speak with him at present. Whereupon he took his leave, but returned after a short while, and,in a rather peremptory manner, solicited a present from me, being, as he said, a great chief of the country; but as [ was not aware of the extent of his power, and being also afraid that others might imitate his example, I told him that I could not give him anything before I had made due in- quiries respecting his real importance from my com- panion who had just gone to the town. But he was not at all satisfied with my argument; representing himself as a great ‘ dhalem,” or evil-doer, and that as such he might do me much harm ; till at length, after a very spirited altercation, I got rid of him.
He was scarcely gone, when the whole house was filled with armed men, horse and foot, from Timbuktu, most of them clad in light blue tobes, tightly girt round the waist with a shawl, and dressed in short breeches reaching only to the knee, as if they were going to fight, their head being covered with a straw hat of the peculiar shape of a little hut with regular thatchwork, such as is fashionable among the in- habitants of Masina and of the provinces further west. hey were armed with spears, besides which some of them wore also a sword: only a few of them
400 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXV.
had muskets. Entering the house rather abruptly, and squatting down in the ante-chambers and courtyard, just where they could find a place, they stared at me not a little, and began asking of each other who this strange-looking fellow might be, while I was reclining on my two smaller boxes, having my larger ones and my other luggage behind me. I was rather at a loss to account for their intrusion, until I learned, upon inquiry from my landlady, that they were come in order to protect their cattle from the Tawarek, who at the time were passing through the place, and who had driven away some of their property. The very person whom they dreaded was the chief Knéha, who had just left me, though they could not make out his whereabouts. Having refreshed themselves during the hot hours of the day, these people started off; but the alarm about the cattle continued the whole of the afternoon, and not less than 200 armed men came into my apartments in the course of an hour.
My messengers not returning at the appointed time from their errand to the town, I had at length retired to rest in the evening, when shortly before midnight they arrived, together with Sidi A’lawate, the Sheikh EH] Bakay’s brother, and several of his fol- lowers, who took up their quarters on the terrace of my house in order to be out of the reach of the mos- quitoes ; and after they had been regaled with a good supper, which had been provided beforehand by some of the townspeople, I went to pay my respects to them.
eS ee ee
bi ; be
Cuar. LXV. INTERVIEW WITH SI'DI A’/LAWA’TE. 401
It was an important interview; for, although this was not the person for whom my visit was specially intended, and whose favourable or unfavourable dis- position would influence the whole success of my arduous undertaking, yet for the present I was en- tirely in his hands, and all depended upon the manner in which he received me. Now my two messengers had only disclosed to himself personally, that I was a Christian, while at the same time they had laid great stress upon the circumstance that, although a Christian, I was under the special protection of the Sultan of Stambul; and Sidi A’lawate inquired there- fore of me, with great earnestness and anxiety, as to the peculiar manner in which I enjoyed the pro- tection of that great Mohammedan sovereign.
Now it was most unfortunate for me that I had no direct letter from that quarter. LEven the firman with which we had been provided by the Basha of Tripoli had been delivered to the governor for whom it was destined, so that at the time I had nothing with me to show but a firman which I had used on my journey in Egypt, and which of course had no es- pecial relation to the case in question. The want of such a general letter of protection from the Sultan of Constantinople, which I had solicited with so much anxiety to be sent after me, was in the sequel the chief cause of my difficult and dangerous position in Tim- buktu ; for, furnished with such a letter, it would have been easy to have imposed silence upon my ad- versaries and enemies there, and especially upon the
VOL. IV. DD
402 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXV.
merchants from Morocco, who were instigated by the most selfish jealousy to raise all sorts of intrigues against me.
Having heard my address with attention, although I was not able to establish every point so clearly as I could have wished, the sheikh’s brother promised me protection, and desired me to be without any appre- hension with regard to my safety; and thus ter- minated. my first interview with this man, who, on the whole, inspired me with a certain degree of con- fidence, although I was glad to think that he was not the man upon whom I had to rely for my safety. Having then had a further chat with his telamid or pupils, with whom I passed for a Mohammedan, | took leave of the party and retired to rest in the close apartments of the lower story of the house. Wee After a rather restless night, the day September 7th. broke when I was at length to enter Tim- buktu ; but we had a good deal. of trouble in per- forming this last short stage of our journey, deprived as we were of beasts of burden; for the two camels which the people had brought from the town in order to carry my boxes, proved much too weak, and it was only after a long delay that we were able to procure eleven donkeys for the transport of all my luggage. Meanwhile the rumour of a traveller of importance having arrived had spread far and wide, and several inhabitants of the place sent a break- fast both for myself and my protector. Just at the moment when we were at length mounting our horses,
Cuar. LXV. APPROACH TO TIMBU’/KTU. 403
it seemed as if the Tarki chief Knéha was to cause me some more trouble, for in the morning he had sent me a vessel of butter in order thus to acquire a fair claim upon my generosity; and coming now for his reward, he was greatly disappointed when he heard that the present had fallen into the hands of other people.
It was ten o’clock when our cavalcade at length put itself in motion, ascending the sandhills which rise close behind the village of Kabara, and which, to my great regret, had prevented my obtaining a view of the town from the top of our terrace. The contrast of this desolate scenery with the character of the fertile banks of the river which I had just left behind was remarkable. The whole tract bore decidedly the character of a desert, although the path was thickly lined on both sides with thorny bushes and stunted trees, which were being cleared away in some places in order to render the path less obstructed and more safe, as the Tawarek never fail to infest it, and at present were particularly dreaded on account of their having killed a few days previously three petty Ta- wati traders on their way to A’rawan. It is from the unsafe character of this short road between the har- bour and the town, that the spot, about halfway be- tween Kabara and Timbuktu, bears the remarkable name of “ Ur-immandes,” “he does not hear,” mean- ing the place where the cry of the unfortunate victim is not heard from either side.
Having traversed two sunken spots designated by
Dpb 2
AOA TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXV.
especial names, where, in certain years when the river rises to an unusual height, as happened in the course of the same winter, the water of the inundation enters and occasionally forms even a navigable chan- nel; and leaving on one side the talha tree of the Welt Salah, covered with innumerable rags of the superstitious natives, who expect to be generously rewarded by their saint with a new shirt, we ap- proached the town: but its dark masses of clay not being illuminated by bright sunshine, for the sky was thickly overcast and the atmosphere filled with sand, were scarcely to be distinguished from the sand and rubbish heaped all round; and there was no oppor- tunity for looking attentively about, as a body of people were coming towards us in order to pay their compliments to the stranger and bid him welcome. This was a very important moment, as, if they had felt the slightest suspicion with regard to my cha- racter, they might easily have prevented my entering the town at all, and thus even endangered my life.
I therefore took the hint of A’lawdte, who recom- mended me to make a start in advance in order to anticipate the salute of these people who had come to meet us; and putting my horse to a gallop, and gun in hand, I galloped up to meet them, when I was received with many salams. But a circumstance occurred which might have proved fatal, not only to my enterprise, but even to my own personal safety, as there was a man among the group who addressed me in Turkish, which I had almost entirely forgotten ;
. a a i <2
Cuar. LXV. ENTRANCE INTO TIMBU’KTU. 405
so that I could with difficulty make a suitable answer to his compliment; but avoiding farther indiscreet questions, I pushed on in order to get under safe cover.
Having then traversed the rubbish which has accu- mulated round the ruined clay wall of the town, and left on one side a row of dirty reed huts which en- compass the whole of the place, we entered the narrow streets and lanes, or, as the people of Timbuktu say, the tijerdten, which scarcely allowed two horses to proceed abreast. But I was not a little surprised at the populous and wealthy character which this quarter of the town, the Sane-Gungu, exhibited, many of the houses rising to the height of two stories, and in their facade evincing even an attempt at archi- tectural adornment. Thus, taking a more westerly turn, and followed by a numerous troop of people, we passed the house of the Sheikh El Bakay, where I was desired to fire a pistol; but as I had all my arms loaded with ball I prudently declined to do so, and left it to one of my people to do honour to the house of our host. We thus reached the house on the other side of the street, which was destined for my re- sidence, and I was glad when I found myself safely in my new quarters.
But before describing my residence in this town, I shall make a few general remarks with regard ta the history of Songhay and Timbuktu.
406
CHAP. LXVI.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY AND TIMBUKTU.
PREVIOUSLY to my journey into the region of the Niger, scarcely any data were known with regard to the his- tory of this wide and important tract, except a few isolated facts, elicited with great intelligence and re- search by Mr. Cooley* from El Bekri, the history of Ebn Khaldtn, the obscure and confused report of Leo about the great Ischia, and the barren state- ment of the conquest of Timbuktu and Gagho, or Gégo, by Muildy A’hmed el Dhéhebi, as mentioned by some historians of Morocco and Spain. But I myself was so successful as to have an opportunity of perusing a complete history of the kingdom of Songhay, from the very dawn of historical records down to the year 1640 of our era; although, unfor- tunately, circumstances prevented my bringing back a complete copy of this manuscript, which forms a respectable quarto volume, and I was only able, during the few days that I had this manuscript in my hands during my stay in Gand, to make short extracts of those passages from its contents which I thought of
* Cooley, ‘ Negroland of the Arabs.”
Pens,
Cuar. LXVI. A/HMED BA’BA’ THE HISTORIAN. AOT
the highest interest in an historical and geographical point of view.
These annals, according to the universal statement of the learned people of Negroland, were written by a distinguished person of the name of A’hmed Baba, although in the work itself that individual is only spoken of in the third person; and it would seem that additions had been made to the book by another hand ; but on this pomt I cannot speak with certainty, as I had not sufficient time to read over the latter por- tion of the work with the necessary attention and care. As for A‘hmed Baba, we know from other interesting documents which have lately come to light*, that he was a man of great learning, considering the country in which he was born, having composed a good many books or essays, and instructed a considerable number of pupils. Moreover, we learn that he was a man of the highest respectability, so that even after he had been carried away prisoner by the victorious army of Mulay A’hmed el Dhéhebi, his very enemies treated
him with the greatest respect, and the inhabitants of
Morocco, in general, regarded him with the highest veneration. T
* Revue Africaine, vol. i. p. 287, ‘ Conquéte du Soudan par les Marocains,” par le Baron Macguckin de Slane. Journal Asiatique, 1855, “ Litérature du Soudan,” par M. le Professor Cherbonneau.
+ This character is most strikingly indicated in those very re- marks which M. le Baron de Slane has published in the notice (see preceding note) which was intended to depreciate the merit of A’hmed Baba as a historian.
ppb 4
408 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Crar. LXVI.
This character of the author would alone be suffi- cient to guarantee the trustworthiness of his history, as far as he was able to go back into the past with any degree of accuracy, from the oral traditions of the people, or from written documents of an older period: for that the beginning of his annals, like that of every other nation, should be enveloped in a certain degree of mystery and uncertainty is very natural, and our author himself is prudent enough to pass over the earlier part in the most rapid and cursory manner, only mentioning the mere name of each king, except that he states the prominent facts with regard to the founder of each dynasty. Nay, even what he says of the founder of the dynasty of the Za, allowance being made for the absurd interpretation of names, which is usual with Arabs and Orientals ‘in general, and also the particulars which he gives with regard to Kilun, or Kilnu, founder of the dynasty of the Sonni%, is very characteristic, and certainly true in the main. For there is no doubt that the founder of the first dynasty immigrated from a foreign country,—a cir- cumstance which is confirmed by other accounts,— and nothing is more probable than that he abolished | the most striking features of pagan superstition, namely, the worship of a peculiar kind of fish, which was probably the famous ayu, or Manatus, of which I have spoken on a former occasion, and of whose
* According to Leo, this dynasty emigrated from Lybia. { Vol. IL p. 507.
: -
Cuar. LXVI. A’HMED BA’BA”’S AUTHORITY. 409
habitat in the waters of the Niger I shall say more further on; while ‘Ali Killun succeeded in usurping the royal power by liberating his country from the sovereignty of the kings of Melle, who had conquered Songhay about the middle of the fourteenth century. Nor can there be any doubt of the truth of the state- ment that Za-Kasi, the fifteenth king of the dynasty of the Za, about the year 400 of the Hejra, or in the beginning of the eleventh century of our era, embraced Islam, and was the first Mohammedan king of Son- ghay. No man who studies impartially those very extracts which I have been able to make from the manuscript, in great haste and under the most unfa- vourable circumstances, and which were translated and published in the journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society * by Mr. Ralfs, can deny that they contain a vast amount of valuable information. But the know- ledge which Europeans possessed of those countries, before my discoveries, was so limited, as to render the greater part of the contents of my extracts, which are intimately related to localities formerly entirely unknown, or in connection with historical facts not better ascertained, difficult of comprehension. But with the light now shed by my journey and my re- searches over these regions and their inhabitants, I have no hesitation in asserting that the work of A’hmed Baba will be one of the most important additions which the present age has made to the
* Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, vol. ix. p. 518.
410 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
history of mankind, in a branch which was formerly almost unknown.
A’'hmed Baba, however, limits himself to the records of the political relations of Songhay, and does not en- ter into any ethnological questions, leaving us entirely in the dark as to the original seats of the tribe; for while in general, on the banks of the Niger, the towns of Tindirma and Dire are supposed to be the original seats of the Songhay, A’hmed Baba apparently re- stricts the limits of the ancient Songhay to the east- ern quarter around Kukiya, stating distinctly* that the town of Timbuktu was not under the authority of any foreign king before it became subjected to the dominion of Kunkur-Musa, the celebrated king of Melle. Yet from this statement we cannot conclude with absolute certainty that the banks of the great river to the south-west of that town were not com- prised in the kingdom of Songhay before that period ; for Timbuktu, lying on the north side of the river, and being founded by the Tawarek or Imoshagh, was an independent place by itself, and in the beginning not closely connected with the history of the sur- rounding region. It might easily have happened, therefore, that the Songhay language was not at all spoken in Timbuktu at a former period, without any conclusion being drawn from this circumstance re- specting the country to the south and south-west of theriver. But although, according to A’hmed Baba’s account, the foundation of the place was entirely
* Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, vol. ix. p. 525.
Guar. LXVI. THE ORIGIN OF TIMBUKTU. 411
due to the Imédshagh, it is probable that, from the very beginning, a portion of the inhabitants of the town belonged to the Songhay nation*; and I rather suppose, therefore, that the original form of the name was the Songhay form Tumbutu, from whence the Iméshagh made Tumbytku, which was afterwards changed by the Arabs into Tumbuktu.f
But the series of chronological facts which we learn from A’hmed Baba, or from other sources, I shall give in a tabular form in the Appendix. Here I will only draw the reader’s attention to a few of the most striking facts, and make some general remarks on the character of that history.
It is very remarkable, that while Islam in the two larger westerly kingdoms which flourished pre-
* “The palace which was erected in Timbuktu was called ‘m‘aduk,’ or ‘m‘adugu.’ This is evidently a Mandingo word, mean- ing ‘the house of the king ;’ but it was certainly called so in the language of the conquerors, and not in that of the natives, and A’hmed Baba understands the former when he says that the build- ing was called by this name in their language.”—Journal of Leipsic Oriental Society, ix. p. 525.
+ The uw sound in the first syllable of the name is the only ori- ginal one, not only in the Songhay, but also in the Arabic form; but it has gradually been changed into an 2, and almost all the Arabs at the present time pronounce and write Tinbuktu,
» »
uw Sj. The town was probably so called, because it was built
originally in a hollow or cavity in the sandhills. Tuimbutu means hole or womb in the Songhay language: if it were a Temashight word, it would be written Tinbuktu. The name is generally interpreted by Europeans, well of Buktu, but ¢im has nothing to do with well. See Vol. I. p. 323, note.
AT? TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
viously to that of Songhay,—I mean Ghana, or Gha- nata, and Melle,—had evidently emanated from the north, and especially from Siyilmésa, Songhay appears to have been civilised from the other side, namely, from Egypt, the intimate relation with which is proved by many interesting circumstances, although, in a political respect, it could only adopt the same forms of go- vernment which had been developed already in Ghana and Melle; nay, we shall find even some of the same titles. With respect to Ghana, we learn from A’hmed Baba the very interesting fact™ that twenty kings were supposed to have ruled over that kingdom at the time when Mohammed spread the new creed which was to agitate and to remodel half of the globe.
The kingdom of Songhay, even after ‘Ali Killun had made it independent of Melle, could not fail to remain rather weak and insignificant, as even Tim- buktu, and probably a great portion of the country to the east of that town, was not comprised in its limits: nay, it even appears that the kingdom was still, at times, dependent in a certain degree upon Melle, the great kingdom on the upper course of the Niger; and it was not until almost 150 years after the time of ‘Alf Killun that the powerful king Sonni ‘Ali, the Sonni Héli of Leo Africanus, conquered Timbuktu, wresting it, with immense slaughter, A.H. 894, A.D. 1488, from the hands of the Tawarek, who had them- selves conquered it from Melle. This king, although he is represented by all the learned men of Negroland
* See A’hmed Baba, 1. ¢. p. 526.
Cusp. LXVI. SONNI ‘ALI’. A413
as a very cruel and sanguinary prince, was no doubt a great conqueror; for although it was he who, in taking possession of this town, inflicted upon the inhabitants a most severe punishment, surpassing even the horrors which had accompanied the taking of the town by the king of Mési, nevertheless it was he also who gave the first impulse to the great im- portance which Timbuktu henceforth obtained, by conquering the central seat of the old empire of Ghanata, and thus inducing the rich merchants from the north, who had formerly been trading with Biru or Walata, and who had even occasionally resided there, to transfer their trade to Timbuktu and Gagho. It is the same king, no doubt, that attracted the at- tention of the Portuguese, who, in the reigns of Jodo and Emmanuel, sent several embassies into the interior, not only to Melle*, which at that time had already greatly declined in power and importance, but also to Timbuktu, where Sonni “Ali seems to have principally resided; and it was perhaps partly on account of the relations which he entertained with the Christian king (to whom he even opened a trading station as far inland as Wadan or Hoden), besides his cruelty against the chiefs of religion, that the Mo- hammedans were less satisfied with his government ; for there is no doubt that he was not a strict Mo- hammedan.
* It is remarkable that, ina map published at Strasburg in the year 1513, the kingdom of Melle appears under the name of Regnum Musa Melle de Ginoria. Atlas of Santarem, pl. No. 13.
414 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
It was Haj Mohammed A’skia who founded the new homonymous dynasty of the A’skia, by rising against his liege lord, the son of Sonni ‘Ali, and, after a desperate struggle, usurping the royal power; and, notwithstanding the glorious career of that great conqueror, we may fancy we can see in the unfor- tunate circumstances of the latter part of the reign of that king, a sort of Divine punishment for the example which he had given of revolt.
We have seen that the dynasty of the Za, of which that of the Sonni seems to have been a mere con- tinuation, immigrated from abroad; and it is a circum- stance of the highest interest to see king Mohammed A’skia,—perhaps the greatest sovereign that ever ruled over Negroland,—who was a native of this very country, born in the island of Néni, a little below Sinder, in the Niger, setting us an example of the highest degree of development of which negroes are capable. For, while Sonni “Ali, like his forefathers, still belonged to that family of foreign settlers who either came from Yemen, according to the current tradition, or as is more credible, immigrated from Libya, as Leo states, the dynasty of the A’skia was entirely of native descent; and it is the more remarkable, if we consider that this king was held in the highest esteem and veneration by the most learned and rigid Mohammedans, while Sonni “Ali had rendered himself so odious that people did not know how to give full vent to their indignation in heaping the most opprobrious epithets upon him.
oe ee ee
ee aS
= ee ee Se ee ee
Cuar. LXVI. HA’S MOHAMMED A’/SKIA. 415
It is of no small interest to a person who en- deavours to take a comprehensive view of the various races of mankind, to observe how, during the time when the Portuguese, carried away by the most heroic enterprise and the most praiseworthy energy, having gradually discovered and partly taken possession of the whole western coast of Africa, and having at length doubled its southernmost promontory, under the guidance of Almeida and Albuquerque, founded their Indian empire, that at this same time a negro king in the interior of the continent not only extended his conquests far and wide, from the centre of Hausa almost to the borders of the Atlantic, and from the pagan country of Mési, in 12° northern latitude, as far as Tawat to the south of Morocco, but also governed the subjected tribes with justice and equity, causing well-being and comfort to spring up everywhere within the borders of his extensive dominions*, and
* It is not to be wondered at that Leo, who visited Negroland just at the time when this prince was aspiring to power, and who must have written the greater part of what he relates of him and his conquests from information which he had received after he had left the country, should treat this usurper, whose identity with his Ischia cannot be doubtful, with very little indulgence; and it even seems as if he purposely intended to give a bad interpretation to everything which the king undertook, a fact which is clearly evi- dent from what he relates with regard to his proceedings in Hausa. ‘That the taxes imposed by him upon his subjects may have been heavy, I concede may be true, as without a considerable revenue he was not able to keep up a strong military force; but at least they evidently must have been much less than they were in the time of Sonni “Ali, when almost the whole population was
engagedin war. We find avery heavy duty upon salt, from each load 5/.
416 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap. LXVI.
introducing such of the institutions of Mohammedan
civilisation as he considered might be useful to his’
subjects. It is only to be lamented that, as is gene- rally the case in historical records, while we are tolerably well informed as to the warlike proceedings of this king, it is merely from circumstances which occasionally transpire and are slightly touched upon, that we can draw conclusions as to the interior con- dition of his empire; and on this point I will make a few observations, before I proceed to the causes which rendered the foundation of this empire so unstable.
In a former part of my researches I have entered into the history and the polity of the empire of Bornu, and it is interesting to compare with the latter that of the Songhay empire, which attained
the zenith of its power just at the time when Bérnu
likewise, having recovered, in consequence of the energy and warlike spirit of the king ‘Ali Gha- jidéni, from the wounds inflicted upon it by the loss of Kanem, the desperate struggle with the tribe of the Soy, and a series of civil wars, attained its most glorious period during the reign of the two Kdris, in the course of the sixteenth century of our era.
In instituting such a comparison between these two extensive kingdoms of Negroland, we soon dis- cover that the Songhay empire, although likewise stated to be founded by a Libyan dynasty, was far more despotic than its eastern rival; and it is in
Cuar. LXVI. INTERIOR CONDITION OF SONGHAY. 417
vain, that we here look either for a divan of twelve great officers, forming a powerful and highly in- fluential aristocracy, or that eclectic form of choosing a successor, both of which we find in Boérnu: nay, not even the office of a vizier meets our eye, as we peruse the tolerably rich annals of A’hmed Baba. We find, no doubt, powerful officers also in the Songhay empire, as must naturally be the case in a large kingdom; but these appear to have been merely governors of provinces, whom the king installed or de- posed at his pleasure, and who exercised no influence upon the internal affairs of the kingdom, except when it was plunged into civil war.
These governors bore generally the title of “ farma,” or “feréng,” a title which is evidently of Mandingo origin*, and was traditionally derived from the in- stitutions of the kingdom of Melle, while the native Songhay title of “‘koy” appears to be used only in order to denote officers of certain provinces, which originally were more intimately related to Songhay ; and in this respect it 1s a remarkable fact, that the governor of Timbuktu or Tumbutu, is constantly called Tumbutu koy, and is only once called Tum- butu-mangha.f Besides this province, those which we find mentioned in the report of A’hmed Baba are the following, going from east to west : — Dendi, or as it is now generally called Déndina, the country between
* See Cooley, “ Negroland,” p. 75, n. 26. and p. 77, n. 28.
+ Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, vol. ix. p. 554. If there be no mistake, there was a ‘“‘koy” as well as a “farma” in
some of the provinces, such as Bara. WOL. IV. EK E
418 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
Kebbi and Sa4y* , which I have described in the ac- count of my own journey, and which seems to have contained a Songhay population from tolerably ancient times, at least before the beginning of the sixteenth century ; but we find none of the three divisions of this important province specified, not even Kenga or Zagha. ‘This is to be regretted, as they appear to have been of ancient origin, and as their history, es- pecially that of Zagha, which seems to have derived its name from the more celebrated town of the same name on the upper course of the river, would be highly interesting.
The country from hence towards the capital we never find comprised by A’hmed Baba under a ge- neral name, nor do we meet with the names of Zabérma or Zérma, which I therefore conclude to be of more recent origin, although that country, at pre- sent so named, was evidently comprised in the king- dom of Songhay. West of Gagho, on the banks of the river, we next find the province of Banku or Benguf, which evidently comprised that part of the river which is studded with islands, as we find the inspector of the harbour of Kabara taking refuge in the district of Banku, with the whole of his fleet, after the capture of the town by the people of Mo-
* A governor of the town of Say is perhaps indicated under the title of Say-weli. Ibid. p. 550.
+ That Banku lay between Timbuktu and Ghago is evident from the fact, that the governor of that province fled to Gagho,
when Mohammed Sadik, the governor of Bel, or Bal, marched upon the capital of the empire.
Cuap. LXVI. LIST OF PROVINCES. 419
rocco. Passing then by the province of Bantal, the limits of which I have not been abie to make out, we come to the province of Bel or Bal, which evi- dently comprised the country on the north side of the river round about Timbuktu, and, perhaps, some dis- tance westwards; but without. including that town itself, which had a governor of its own, nor even the harbour of Kabara, which at that time was of suffi- cient importance to be placed under the inspection of a special officer or “ farma,” who, however, seems to have been subjected in a certain degree to the in- spection of the Bal-ma, or the governor of Bal, who was able to call him to account.* The governor of the province of Bal, who bore the peculiar title of “ Bal-ma,” a word likewise of Mandingo origin, ma corresponding to the Songhay word “koy,” seems to have been of great importance in a military respect, while in a moral point of view the governor of the town of Timbuktu enjoyed perhaps greater autho- rity, and the office of the Tumbutu-koy, seems always to have been filled by a learned man or fakih, proving that this town was regarded at that time as the seat of learning; and that the fakih who governed the town of Timbuktu possessed great power is evi- dent from the fact, that A’hmed Baba mentions it as a proof of great neglect on the part of Al Hadi the governor of Tindirma, that he did not go in person to the kadhi to pay him his compliments.
* See the account in the Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 545.
gE. 2
420 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
Proceeding then westward from Bal and Tim- buktu, we come to the very important province of Kurmina, with the capital Tindirma, which very often served as a residence for the king himself, and became the chosen seat of A’skia Datd. The im- portance of the province of Kurmina seems to have been based, not merely upon its military strength and populousness, but upon the circumstance of its having to supply Songhay Proper, together with its two large towns of Gagho and Kiukia, with grain; and it is evidently on this account, that the governor of that province is on one occasion called the store- keeper and provider of the king.* South-west from the province of Kurmina, there were two provinces Dirma ¢ and Bara, the exact boundaries of which it is difficult to determine; except that we know that Bara must have lain rather along the south-easterly branch of the river; while Dirma, having probably derived this name from the town of Dire, is most likely to be sought for on the north-westerly branch, although Caillié places Diriman, as he calls it, south of the river. The province or district of Shaa { may probably be identical with the district round the im-
* Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 541:—“ Then he made Kishya feréng of Kurmina, and gave him the office of rr)
mezr'a ee
+ It is not improbable that Dirma was originally the name or title of the governor of Dire, as Balma was that of the governor of Bal, and that it was in after times conferred upon the province of which he was the ruler. Caillié, vol. ii. p. 29.
t Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 544.
Cuar. LXVI. PROVINCES CONTINUED. AQ]
portant town of Sa, situated a short distance to the north-east of the lake Debu, and of which further notice will be taken in the itineraries. Proceeding further in the same direction, we have the province of Masina, a name which, under the form of Masin, is mentioned as early as the latter part of the eleventh century by El Bekri*, but the limits of which it is very difficult to define, although it is clear that its central part comprises the islands formed by the different branches of the river, the Mayo balléo and the Mayo ghannéo, or dhannéo, and probably com- prised in former times the ancient and most important town of Zagha the chief seat of Tekrir, which Haj Mohammed A’skia had conquered in the beginning of his reign. It is peculiar, however, and probably serves to show the preponderance of the element of the Fulbe in Masina, where they seem to have esta- blished themselves from very ancient times, that the governor of this province bore the title of Masina- mangha, instead of Masina-farma.
To the north-west of Masina, we have the province of Baghena, which comprised the central portion of the ancient kingdom of Ghana, or Ghanata, and the important town of Biru, or Waldta, which, before Timbuktu rose to greater importance, that is to say, before the time of Sonni “Ali, was the great centre of commerce in this part of Negroland. The province of Baghena was also of considerable importance on
* El Bekri, ed. Macguckin de Slane, p. 150: em be Gigs
EE 3
422 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
account of its situation, bordering, as it did, closely upon the central parts of the empire of Melle, which, at this time, formed almost the only portion that remained of that vast empire, and which was nearly overwhelmed by the Songhay in the course of the sixteenth century. Even the Iméshagh or Tawarek became tributaries.
South of the river two other provinces are men- tioned by A’hmed Baba, namely, the province of Hémbori, which from the nature of the country was also called Tondi, or El Hajri, and Burgu™, or rather Barba, though the latter country was ap- parently never entirely subjected.
The governors of these provinces were certainly possessed of considerable power, and belonging, as they did in general, to the royal family, exercised a very prejudicial influence upon the destinies of the empire, as at the same time the central government became weak and debilitated. The governor of Kur- mina, especially, conscious of the important influ- ence and the rich character of his province, was very prone to mutiny and revolt. For as it was certainly a great advance in the scale of civilisation, that it was
* In the passage (Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society), p. 546, in the seventh line, a second Sis added by mistake. The name cannot be read as Burgu-koy, as all the parties com- posing the army of the pretender Mohammed e’ Sadik, are said to have belonged to the people of the west, while Burgu is situated at the S.E. frontier of Songhay; nay, it is quite clear, from page 547, that the Barakoy is meant, and not the Burgu-koy.
Cuap. LXVI. HEIR-APPARENT. 423
not customary amongst the Songhay to murder the younger brothers of the newly elected king, or to render them incapable of aspiring to the royal dig- nity by depriving them of their sight (as is still the custom in Waday), or in some other manner dis- abling them; so, on the other hand, it was no doubt very prejudicial to the stability of the empire, that so many royal princes were constantly installed as governors of powerful provinces, some of them si- tuated at a great distance from the capital. Such a government could only prosper under the rule of a powerful king, such as Mohammed el Haj A’skia was during his most vigorous period.
On the other hand, we find that the government of Songhay was far more despotic than that of Bérnu, where, as I have had occasion to relate*, the election of a new king from among the royal princes was placed in the hands of three electors, themselves chosen from the most trustworthy men of the country; while the kings of Songhay appear originally to have designated their own successor among the royal princes, there being even an established dignity of something like an heir-apparent or crown-prince, with the title of “feréng-mangha:”f but this principle, as is naturally the case in barbaric states without any written con-
* Vol. Il. p. 270.
+ The exact meaning of the title “feréng-mangha,” and the authority with which it was invested, are not quite clear; for although there is little doubt that “feréng-mangha” signifies “great prince,” it is remarkable that on various occasions we find two “feréng-mangha” instead of one; and it is stated of Mohammed
EE 4
424 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVI.
stitution, was only observed as long as the king ex- ercised paramount authority, while we see in other cases the army, or even a powerful governor, choosing a successor, as that of Dendi, who deposed Moham- med Bankori, and installed in his place A’skia Ismail.
As I stated before, we do not even find in Songhay a regular vizier; but we find a sort of treasurer in the person of the “ khatib,” that is to say the imam who preaches before the congregation every Friday. ‘Thus we find the great Haj Mohammed A’skia taking the whole of the money which he thought necessary for his royal pilgrimage, viz. 300,000 mithkals, out of the royal treasury, which was in the hands of the khatib “Omar*; but we even find, in another passage, the same khatib authorised to liberate a princely pri- soner; and, from a third passagef, it is quite evident that the khatib in Gagho exercised the same authority as the kadhi in Timbuktu, although we find a kadhi besides him in the capital.
There appears to have been an established state prison in Songhay, namely, in a place called Kantu, the exact situation of which, however, I have not
Ban A’skia, that he expressly designated two (J. O. S. p. 545). Moreover, we find that neither of these two was taken into account in appointing a successor (Ib. p. 546). But another pas- sage (Ib. p. 552) is not less clear, stating plainly that, the feréng- mangha having fallen in the battle, the A’skia named another prince as his successor, implying clearly the identity of the title “ phe = mangha” with that of heir-apparent.
* Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 533.
+ Ibid. p..555.
Cuar. LXVI. POLITICAL CONDITION OF SONGHAY. 425
yet been able to ascertain. This prison could not fail to become of great importance as the dissensions and feuds in the royal family increased; and there appears to be no doubt that at times it was quite full of royal prisoners, and in this respect, as well as on account of the various assassinations which oc- curred there, fully corresponded with the character of the Tower in the middle ages. There is no doubt that polygamy, with its consequent intrigues in the harim, was the chief cause of the speedy decline of the Songhay empire from the high position it had attained under the rule of Sonni ‘Ali and Haj Mo- hammed A’skia. The large number of ambitious children that A’skia Datid, the most peaceful of the Songhay rulers, left behind him, seems especially to have contributed in a great measure to this speedy decline; but the example had been set by that ruler himself, who, having no other claims to the royal dignity than his talent and energy, revolted against his lege lord, whom he conquered and supplanted, but had himself to endure the misfortune of being persecuted, and finally dethroned in his old age, by his own son Musa.
On the subject of the manners and customs and the state of society in Songhay during its period of power, we find but little in the short extracts which I was able to make from the history of A’hmed Baba ; still a few hints as to some remarkable usages are to be gleaned from them. Islam, as we have seen, had been adopted by the royal family at the beginning of
496 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap LXVI.
the eleventh century of our era; but we learn from the eminent Andalusian geographer El Bekri, who finished his work on Africa in the year 1067, that while the king was a Moslim by law, receiving at his accession to the throne, as emblems of his authority, a sword, ring, and a copy of the Kuran, which were said to have been sent by an Emir el Mumenin (from Egypt), the greater part of the inhabitants even of the capital, at that time, were still addicted to paganism*; and we may fairly conclude from the description of Leo Africanus, and from what we observe in Negro- land at the present day, that even during the time of the A’skias, the greater part of the natives of the country were idolaters, at least in heart and supersti- tious usages. However, it would seem as if they had received, in more ancient times, several institutions from the Egyptians, with whom, I have no doubt, they maintained an intercourse, by means of the ener- getic inhabitants of Aujilaf, from a relatively ancient period; and among these institutions I feel justified in reckoning the great care which the Songhay be- stowed upon their dead. We see that even those among their kings who died in the very remotest part of the empire were transported with the greatest trouble to the capital, in order to be buried there with due ceremony. For instance, Sonni ‘Ali had died in Gurma; but his sons, who accompanied him on the expedition, took out his entrails, and filled his
* El Bekri, ed. de Slane, p. 183. {~ See El Edrisi, trans. Jaubert, i. p. 288.
Cuap. LXVI. INTERCOURSE WITH EGYPT. 427
inside with honey, in order that it might be preserved from putrefaction.* The remains of A’skia Daud were transported all the way from Tindirma to Gagho in a boat. Even in the case of the slaughter of dis- tinguished enemies, we find strict orders given to perform towards them the ceremonies usual with the dead.
The attention thus bestowed upon the dead seems not to have been in consequence of the introduction of Islam, but appears rather to have been tradition- ally handed down from the remotest antiquity. Never- theless, it is clear that the adoption of Islam exercised considerable influence upon the civilisation of these people, and we even find a Medreseh mentioned in Gaghof, an establishment the institution of which we have probably to assign to El Haj Mohammed, who, while on his pilgrimage to Mekka, solicited the ad- vice of the most learned men in Egypt, and especially that of the sheikh Jelal e’ din e’ Soyuti, as to the best method of propagating the Mohammedan religion in his own country.
The influence of learning and study, even in the royal family, is apparent enough from the example of the pretender Mohammed Bankorif{, who, when on his march to Gagho, ready to fight the king El Haj A’skia, was induced by the kadhi of Timbuktu, whom he by chance visited, to give up his ambitious designs
* Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 532. + Ibid. p. 527, from the year 936 A. H. t Ibid. p. 541.
428 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap. LXVI.
for a quiet course of study, to the great astonishment and disappointment of his army, who expected to be led by him, in a bloody contest, to power and wealth. A’hmed Baba himself, the author of the history of Songhay, who gives a long list of learned natives of Negroland, may serve as a fair specimen of the learning in Timbuktu at that time. He had a library of 1600 books.
A great deal of commerce was carried on in Son- ghay during the dominion of the A’skias, especially in the towns of Gagho and Kukiya; the latter being, as 1t appears, the especial market for gold as early as the latter half of the eleventh century. Salt, too, was the staple commodity, while shells already at that time constituted the general currency of the market; not, however, the same kind of shells that are used at present, but a different sort which were introduced from Persia; and there is no doubt that, even at that time, almost all the luxuries of the Arabs found their way into this part of Negroland. That Timbuktu also, since the decline of Biru or Walata, in the latter part of the fifteenth century, formed an important place for foreign commerce, is evident from the fact that the merchants of Ghaddmes, even at the taking of the town by the Basha Jédar, inhabited the same quarter as at the present day.
We also see, from Leo’s account*, that the king of Songhay was obliged to spend a great proportion of his revenue in the purchase of horses from Barbarr,
* Leo Africanus, 1, vil. c. 3.
| ; : |
Guar. LXVI. COMMERCE.— ARMY. 429
by means of which he improved the native breed, as we have seen was the case in Bornu, cavalry con- stituting the principal military strength of countries in the state of civilisation which prevails in Negroland. We also find coats of mail mentioned, as well as brass helmets, but no allusion is made to even a single musketeer, nor is the use of any firearms intimated by A’hmed Baba, although he distinctly describes several engagements, and even single combats. It was this circumstance which secured to the small army sent by the Emperor of Morocco, a superiority which could not be contested by any numbers which the last A/skfa, ruling over a kingdom of vast extent but undermined by intrigues and civil war, was able to oppose to it; and we must not conclude, from this circumstance, that an army of 4000 men was a great thing at that time in point of numbers, for the kings of Negroland, at least those of Songhay and Bérnu, at that period, were able to raise greater armies than any of the present kings of those regions could bring together, and we hear of an army of 140,000 men. The circumstance of the kings of Songhay not having procured at that time —the end of the sixteenth century of our era—even the smallest number of firearms, is remarkable, if we compare with it the fact which I have dwelt upon in its proper place%, that Edris A’lawéma, the king of Bérnu who ruled. in the latter part of the sixteenth century, possessed a considerable number of muskets. The cannon which
* ON ok Al 2p, 650,
430 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar, LXVI.
was found among the Songhay when they were con- quered by the Moroccains had, I have no doubt, formed part of the present which the Portuguese had for- warded to A’skia Musa, as we shall further see in detail in the chronological tables; but the fact of the enemy having found this piece of ordnance among the spoil of the capital, and not in the thick of the battle, sufficiently proves that the Songhay did not know how to use it. As for the matchlocks, which even at the present day are preserved in Gagho, and of which, by some accident, I did not obtain a sight, they belonged originally to the very conquerors from Morocco, who afterwards, as Ruma, formed a sta- tionary garrison, and even a certain aristocratical body, in all the chief towns of the kingdom.
Side by side with a certain degree of civilisation, no doubt, many barbarous customs were retained, such as the use of the lash, which in other parts of Negroland we find rarely employed, except in the case of slaves, but which, in Songhay, we see made use of constantly, even in the case of persons of the highest rank; and instances occur, as in that of the instigator of the revolt of Hl] Hadi, under the king E] Haj, of persons being flogged to death.*
It is certainly a memorable fact, of which people in Europe had scarcely any idea, that a ruler of Mo- rocco, at the time when Spain had attained its highest degree of power under Philip II., and was filled with precious metals, should open an access to an ex-
* Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 5435.
Cuar. LXVI. THE RU’MA. 431
tensive and rich country, from whence to procure himself an unlimited supply of gold, to the surprise of all the potentates of Europe. It is, moreover, a very remarkable circumstance, that the soldiery by means of which Mulay Hamed subdued that far- distant kingdom, and who were left as a garrison in the conquered towns, intermarrying with the females of the country, in the same way as the Portuguese did in India, managed to rule those extensive re- gions by themselves, even long after they had ceased to acknowledge the supremacy of the Emperor of Morocco, whose soldiers these Ruma originally had been, Ruma or Erma being the plural form of Rami, “shooter” or ‘ sharpshooter ;” and although they appear never to have formed a compact body ruled by a single individual, but rather a number of small aristocratic communities, the Ruma in Tim- buktu having scarcely any connection with those in Baghena, nay, probably not even with those in Bamba and Gagho, yet superior discipline enabled them to keep their place. The nationality of these Ruma puzzled me a long time, while I was collecting information on these regions in the countries farther eastward ; and they have lately attracted the attention of the French traveller Raffenel*, during his journey to Kaarta, when he learnt so much about a people, whom he calls “Arama,” that he supposed them to be
* See Raffenel, Nouveau Voyage dans le pays des Négres (made in 1847), Paris, 1856, vol. ii. p. 349, et seg.; the Vocabulary, ibid. p: 399, et seq.
AS TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXYVI1.
a distinct tribe, although the vocabulary which he col- lected of their idiom, shows it to be nothing but a slight variety of the Songhay language. However, it is clear, that under such circumstances the do- minion exercised by this set of half-castes could not but be of a very precarious character; and after a protracted struggle with the smaller tribes around, they have been entirely crushed by the Tawarek, and in most of the towns of Songhay form at present an integral part of the degraded native population, although they have preserved their name of Ruma, or, as the name is generally pronounced, Rumma, and still claim a sort of moral ascendancy.
It will be seen from the preceding sketch, and be- come still more apparent from the chronological tables at the end of the volume, that Timbuktu has rather unjustly figured in Europe as the centre and the capital of a great Negro empire, while it never acted more than a secondary part, at least in earlier times; and this character evidently appears from the narrative of Ebn Battita’s journey, in the middle of the fourteenth century. But on account of Tim- buktu becoming the seat of Mohammedan learning and Mohammedan worship, and owing to the noble character of its buildings, well deserving to rank as a city or “medina,” a title which the capital itself perhaps never deserved, it always enjoyed great re- spect, even during the flourishing period of the latter ; and after Gagho or Gégd had relapsed into insigni- ficance, in consequence of the conquest by the Ruma
Cuap. LXVI. POLITICAL SITUATION OF TIMBU’KTU. 433 Fi
at the end of the sixteenth century, Timbuktu, on account of its greater proximity to Morocco, became the more important place, where gradually the little commerce which still remained in that distracted region of the Niger was concentrated. But, nevertheless, during the age of anarchy which succeeded to the conquest of the country by the Ruma, and owing to the oppression from the Tawarek tribes on the one side, and the Bambara and Fiulbe on the other, the state of affairs could not be very settled; and the town, shaken as it was to its very base by that fearful struggle of the inha- bitants with the Kadhi Mustapha, with massacre, rapine, and conflagration following in its train, could not but decline greatly from its former splendour; yet under the alternately predominating influence of paganism, represented most strongly by the warlike tribe of the Bambara, and of Mohammedanism re- presented by the Arab tribes*, it struggled on, till in consequence of its being conquered by the Fulbe of Masina, in the year 1826, a few months before the unfortunate Major Laing succeeded in reaching the town, it was threatened with the loss of all its com- merce. For these people, owing to the impulse given to Mohammedanism in this part of Negroland by their
* This condition of the town explains the great divergence of reports as to the creed prevalent in Timbuktu; but it is unintel-— ligible that a person could actually visit the town without be- coming aware that it contained several mosques, and very large ones, too, for such a place. For particulars, see the Appendix.
VOL. IV. F F
A434 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVI.
countryman ‘Othman dan Fédiye*, had become far more fanatical champions of the faith than the Arabs and Moors; and treating the inhabitants of the newly conquered city, as well as the foreigners who used to visit it, with extreme rigour, according to the pre- judices which they had imbibed, they could not fail to ruin almost the whole commercial activity of the place. Their oppression was not confined to the pagan traders, the Wangarawa, who carry on almost the whole com- merce with the countries south of the Niger, but ex- tended even to the Mohammedan merchants from the north, especially the traders from Tawat and Gha- dames, against whom the Morocco merchants, insti- gated by a feeling of petty rivalry, succeeded in direct- ing their rancour. It was in consequence of this op- pression, especially after a further increase of the Fulbe party in the year 1831, that the Ghadamsiye people induced the Sheikh el Mukhtar, the elder brother of El] Bakay, and successor of Sidi Mohammed, to. remove his residence from the hille, or hillet e’ sheikh el Mukhtar, in A’zawad, half a day’s journey from the well Bel Mehan to Timbuktu. Thus we find in this distracted place a third power stepping in between the Fulbe on the one side and the Tawarek on the other, and using the power of the latter as far as their want of centralisation allowed, against the
* See what I have said, p. 256, about the Sheikh A’hmedu, or rather Mohammed Lebbo, the founder of the kingdom of Hamda- Allahi, having brought from Gando the religious banner under which he conquered Masina.
Cuar. LXVI. LATEST EVENTS. 435
overbearing character of the former. In consequence of this continued collision, the Tawdrek drove the Fulbe completely out of the town, about the year 1844, when a battle was fought on the banks of the river, in which a great number of the latter were either slain or drowned. But the victory of the Tawarek was of no avail, and only plunged the dis- tracted town into greater misery; for, owing to its peculiar situation on the border of a desert tract, Tim- buktu cannot rely upon its own resources, but must always be dependent upon those who rule the more fertile tracts higher up the river; and the ruler of Masina had only to forbid the exportation of corn from his dominions to reduce the inhabitants of Timbuktu to the utmost distress. A compromise was therefore agreed to in the year 1846, through the me- diation of the Sheikh el Bakay, between the different parties, to the effect that ‘Timbuktu should be depen- dent on the Fulbe without being garrisoned by a mili- tary force, the tribute being collected by two kadhis, one Pullo, and the other Songhay, who should them- selves decide all cases of minor importance, the more important ones being referred to the capital. But, nevertheless, the government of the town, or rather the police, as far as it goes, is in the hands of one or two Songhay mayors, with the title of emir, but who have scarcely any effective power, placed as they are between the Fulbe on the one side and the Tawarek on the other, and holding their ground against the former through the two kadhis, and against the
Fr 2
436 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cir. LKWE:
latter by means of the Sheikh el Bakay. Such is the distracted state of this town, which cannot be remedied before a strong and intelligent power is again established on hs | upper course of the Niger, so eminently favourable for commerce. |
After these general remarks on the character of the history of Songhay, I proceed to give a we of _ stay in Timbuktu.
ae
AdT
CHAP. LXVII.
FIRST MONTH OF RESIDENCE IN TIMBUKTU.
Ir had been arranged that, during the absence of the Sheikh el Bakay, whose special guest I professed to be, my house should be locked up and no one al- lowed to pay me a visit. However, while my lug- gage was being got in, numbers of people gained access to the house, and came to pay me their com- pliments, and while they scrutinised my luggage, part of which had rather a foreign appearance, some of them entertained a doubt as to my nationality. But of course it could never have been my intention to have impressed these people with the belief of my being a Mohammedan; for having been known as a Christian all along my road as far as Libtako, with which province the Arabs of A’zawad keep up a continual intercourse, although there the people would scarcely believe that I was a European, the news of my real character could not fail soon to transpire; and it was rather a fortunate cir- cumstance that, notwithstanding our extremely slow progress, and our roundabout direction, the news had not anticipated us. I had been obliged to
FF 3
438 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVII.
adopt the character of a Mohammedan, in order to traverse with some degree of safety the country of the Tawarek, and to enter the town of Timbuktu, which was in the hands of the fanatical Falbe of Hamda-Allahi, while I had not yet obtained the pro- tection of the chief whose name and character alone had inspired me with sufficient confidence to enter upon this enterprise.
Thus I had now reached the object of my arduous undertaking ; but it was apparent from the very first, that I should not enjoy the triumph of having over- come the difficulties of the journey in quiet and repose. The continuous excitement of the protracted struggle, and the uncertainty whether I should suc- ceed in my undertaking, had sustained my weakened frame till I actually reached this city; but as soon as I was there, and almost at the very moment when I entered my house, I was seized with a severe attack of fever. Yet never were presence of mind. and bodily energy more required; for the first night which I passed in Timbuktu was disturbed by feel- ings of alarm and serious anxiety.
On the morning of the 8th of September, the first news I heard was, that Hammadi the rival and enemy of El Bakay had informed the Fulbe, or Fullan, that a Christian had entered the town, and that, in con- sequence, they had come to the determination of killing him. However, these rumours did not cause me any great alarm, as I entertained the false hope that I might rely on the person who, for the time,
Cuar. LXVII. PRESENTS TO SI/DI A’/LAWA’TE. 439
had undertaken to protect me: but my feeling of se- curity was soon destroyed, this very man turning out my greatest tormentor. I had destined for him a very handsome gift, consisting of a fine cloth bernus, a cloth kaftan, and two tobes, one of silk and the other of indigo-dyed cotton, besides some smaller articles; but he was by no means satisfied with these, and peremptorily raised the present to the following formidable proportions : —
Shells. Two blue berntses of the best quality, worth - 100,000 One kaftan - - - ~ = - - 40,000 Two waistcoats; one red and one blue - - 15,000 Two silk tobes - - - - - ° 35,500 Two Nipe tobes”~ - - - - - - 30,000
A pair of small pistols, with 7 lbs. of fine powder Ten Spanish dollars - > : a 3 Two English razors, and many other articles = -
While levying this heavy contribution upon me, in order to take from the affair its vexatious character, my host stated, that as their house and their whole esta- blishment were at my disposal, so my property ought to be at theirs. But even this amount of property did not satisfy him, nor were his pretensions limited to this; for, the following day, he exacted an almost equal amount of considerable presents from me, such as two cloth kaftans, two silk hamdil, or sword belts, three other silk tobes, one of the species called jellabi, one of that called harir, and the third of the kind called filfil, one Nuipe tobe, three turkedis, a small six-barrelled pistol, and many other things. He pro-
FF 4
440 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIL.
mised me, however, on his part, that he would not only make presents of several of these articles to the Tawarek chiefs, but that he would also send a hand- some gift to the governor of Hamda-Allahi; but this latter condition at least, although the most important, considering that the town was formally subjected to the supremacy of the ruler of Masina, was never ful- filled; and although I was prepared to sacrifice all I had for the purposes of my journey, yet it was by no means agreeable to give up such a large proportion of my very limited property to a younger brother of the chief under whose protection I was to place myself.
Thus my first day in Timbuktu passed away, preparing me for a great deal of trouble and anxiety which I should have to go through; even those who professed to be my friends treating me with so little consideration.
However, the second day of my residence here was more promising. I received visits from several re- spectable people, and I began to enter with spirit upon my new situation, and to endeavour by forbearance to accommodate myself to the circumstances under which I was placed. The state of my health also seemed to improve, and I felt a great deal better than on the preceding day.
I was not allowed to stir about, but was confined within the walls of my house. In order to obviate the effect of this want of exercise as much as pos- sible, to enjoy fresh air and at the same time to be-
Cuar. LXVII. VIEW OF THE TOWN. 441
come familiar with the principal features of the town, through which I was not allowed to move about at pleasure, I ascended as often as possible the terrace of my house. This afforded an excellent view over the northern quarters of the town. On the north was the massive mosque of Sankoré, which had just been restored to all its former grandeur through the influence of the Sheikh el Bakay, and gave the whole place an imposing character. Neither the mosque Sidi Yahia, nor the “great mosque,” or Jingeré-bér, was seen from this point; but towards the east the view extended over a wide expanse of the desert, and towards the south the elevated mansions of the Ghadamsiye merchants were visible. The style of the buildings was various. I could see clay houses of different characters, some low and unseemly, others rising with a second story in front to greater elevation, and making even an attempt at archi- tectural ornament, the whole being interrupted by a few round huts of matting. The sight of this spectacle afforded me sufficient matter of interest, although, the streets being very narrow, only little was to be seen of the intercourse carried on in them, with the exception of the small market in the northern quarter, which was exposed to view on account of its situation on the slope of the sand-hills which, in course of time, have accumulated round the mosque.
But while the terrace of my house served to make me well acquainted with the character of the town,
449 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIL.
it had also the disadvantage of exposing me fully to the gaze of the passers by, so that I could only slowly and with many interruptions, succeed in making a sketch of the scene thus offered to my view, and which is represented in the plate opposite. At the same time I became aware of the great inaccuracy which charac- terises the view of the town as given by M. Cailli¢; still, on the whole, the character of the single dwellings was well represented by that traveller, the only error being that in his representation the whole town seems to consist of scattered and quite isolated houses, while, in reality, the streets are entirely shut in, as the dwellings form continuous and uninterrupted rows. But it must be taken into account that Timbuktu, at the time of Caillié’s visit, was not so well off as it is at present, having been overrun by the Fulbe the preceding year, and he had no opportunity of making a drawing on the spot.
Although I was greatly delighted at the pleasant place of retreat for refreshing my spirits and invi- gorating my body by a little exercise which the ter- race afforded me, I was disgusted by the custom which prevails in the houses like that in which I was lodged, of using the terrace asa sort of closet; and I had great difficulty in preventing my guide Ammer el Walati, who still staid with me and made the terrace his usual residence, from indulging in this filthy practice.
Being anxious to impart to my friends in Europe the news of my safe arrival in this far-famed town,
Cuar. LXVII. PURCHASE OF CALICO. 443
I was busily employed in writing letters, which gave fresh impulse to my energy. My tormentor Sidi Alawate himself seemed anxious to rouse my spirits, which he could not but be conscious of having con- tributed a great deal to depress, by sending me word that he himself would undertake to accompany me on my home journey, as he intended making the pilgrimage to Mekka; but, having once had full op- portunity of judging of the character of this man, I placed but little confidence in his words.
Meanwhile, I began to provide what was most necessary for my comfort, and bought for myself and my people a piece of good bleached calico, “shigge,” * or ‘sehen hindi,” as it is called here, for 13,500 shells, and three pieces of unbleached calico for 8000 each. At the same time I sent several ar- ticles into the market, in order to obtain a supply of the currency of the place, 3000 shells being reckoned equal to one Spanish dollar.
* It is a highly interesting fact, that we find this native name, which is given to calico in the region of the Niger, already men- tioned by that most eminent and clear-sighted of Arab geographers, A’bu ‘Obaid Allah el Bekri, in the middle of the eleventh century, or fully 800 years ago. For, in describing the manufacture of cotton in the town of Silla, which has become so familiar to Europeans in consequence of Mungo Park’s adventures, he ex- pressly mentions that this calico was called “shigge” by the
natives, COLE) Slenell pl (El Bekri, ed. de Slane, 1857, p- 173.) Great interest is imparted by such incidents to the
life of a region which, to the common observer, seems dead and uninteresting.
444 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVII.
Thus I had begun to make myself a little more comfortable, when suddenly on the morning of the 10th, while I was suffering from another attack of fever, I was excited by the report being circulated, that the party opposed to my residence in the town was arming in order to attack me in my house. Now, I must confess that, notwithstanding the profession of sincere friendship made to me by Sidi A’lawdte, I am in- clined to believe that he himself was not free from treachery, and, perhaps, was in some respect im- plicated in this maneuvre, as he evidently supposed that, on the first rumour of such an attack being intended, I should abandon my house, or at least my property, when he might hope to get possession under- hand of at least a good portion of the latter before the arrival of his brother, whom he knew to be a straightforward man, and who would not connive at such intrigues. With this view, I have no doubt, he sent a female servant to my house, advising me to de-
posit all my goods* in safety with the Taleb el Wafi, as
* On this occasion, which was a rather serious one, a most ridiculous misunderstanding was caused by the peculiarity of the Arabic dialect used in Timbuktu, which puzzled me and my companions very often, and sometimes made conversation between me and my friends very difficult and intricate. When the ser- vant said that we should remove all our “haiwan” from our house, supposing that she meant animals, we told her that we had only one animal in our house, viz. my horse; and it was some time before we learned that in Timbiktu, which is inhabited mostly by such Arabs as have been at a former period dwellers in the desert, and whose property consisted almost exclusively of camels and cattle, the word “ haiw4n ” comprises all kinds of movable property.
a
a ee ee ae ee
. —=——— <7
Car. LXVII. FIRMER POSITION. AA5
the danger which threatened me was very great; but this errand had no other effect than to rouse my spirits. I armed immediately, and ordered my servants to do the same, and my supposed protector was not a little astonished, when he himself came shortly afterwards with the Walati (who, no doubt, was at the bottom of the whole affair), and found me ready to defend myself and my property, and to repulse any attack that might be made upon my residence, from whatever quarter it might proceed. He asked me whether I meant to fight the whole population of the town, ut- tering the words “‘ guwet e’ Rum,” “strength of the Christians ;” and protested that I was quite safe under his protection and had nothing to fear, and certainly, for the moment, my energetic conduct had dispersed the clouds that might have been impending over my head.
But notwithstanding his repeated protestations of sincere friendship, and although he confirmed with his own mouth what I had already heard from other people, that he himself was to accompany me on my return journey as far as Bornu, he did not discon- tinue for a moment his importunity in begging for more presents day by day.
One day he called on me in company with his principal pupils, and earnestly recommended me to change my religion, and from an unbeliever to become a true believer. Feeling myself strong enough in arguments to defend my own religious principles, I challenged him to demonstrate to me the superiority of his creed, telling him that in that case I should
446 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVII.
not fail to adopt it, but not till then. Upon this, he and his pupils began with alacrity a spirited discussion, in the firm hope that they would soon be able to overcome my arguments; but after a little while they found them rather too strong, and were obliged to give in, without making any further pro- gress at the time in their endeavours to persuade me to turn Mohammedan. This incident improved my situation in an extraordinary degree, by basing my safety on the sincere esteem which several of the most intelligent of the inhabitants contracted for me.
While thus gaining a more favourable position, even in the eyes of this unprincipled man, I had the pleasure of receiving a letter from his elder, more intelligent, and straightforward brother, the Sheikh el Bakay himself, late in the evening of the 18th, full of the most assuring promises that I should be quite safe under his protection, and that he would soon arrive to relieve me from my unsatisfactory posi- tion. And although I felt very unwell all this time, and especially the very day that I received this mes- sage, I did not lose a moment in sending the Sheikh a suitable answer, wherein I clearly set forth all the motives which had induced me to visit this city, in conformity with the direct wish of the British government, whose earnest desire it was to open friendly intercourse with all the chiefs and princes of the earth; mentioning among ‘other Mo- hammedan chiefs with whom such a relation existed,
the Sultan “Abd el Mejid, Mula ‘Abd e’ Rahman, and
Cuar. LXVII. LETTER TO EL BAKA’Y. AAT
the Imam of Maskat ; and whose attention the region of the Great River (Niger), together with Tim- buktu, had long attracted. At the same time I as- sured him that his own fame as a just and highly intelligent man, which I had received from my friends far to the east in the heart of Negroland, had in- spired me with full confidence that I should be safe under his protection.- In consequence of the views which I set forth in this letter, I was so fortunate as to gain the lasting esteem of this excellent man, who was so much pleased with the contents of it, that on its arrival in Gundam, where he was at the time, he read it to all the principal men, Tawarek, Songhay, and even Fullan, in whose company he was staying.
Meanwhile, in order to obtain the friendship and to secure the interest of other and more selfish people, I gave away a great many presents; but, from what I learned afterwards, I had reason to suspect that they did not all reach the persons for whom they were intended. Most of them remained in the possession of the greedy Weled A’mmer Walati, through whose hands they had unfortunately to pass.
The day that I received the important message from the Sheikh has been impressed on my memory with so much greater force, as it was the grand festival of the Mohammedans, or the ‘Aid el Kebir. Here also in this city, so far remote from the centre of Mohammedan worship, the whole population, on this important day, said their prayers outside the town; but there being no paramount chief to give
448 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnuar. LXVII.
unity to the whole of the festive arrangements, the ceremonies exhibited no striking features, and the whole went off very tamely, only small parties of from six to ten persons forming groups for joining in prayer, while the whole procession comprised scarcely more than thirty horses. |
After my fever had abated for a day or two it returned with greater violence on the 17th, and I felt at times extremely unwell and very weak, and in my feverish state was less inclined to bear with tran- quillity and equanimity all the exactions and contri- butions levied upon me by Sidi A’lawate. We had a thunder-storm almost every day, followed now and then by a tolerable quantity of rain; the greatest fall of rain, according to the information which I was able to gather, annually occurring during the month of September, a phenomenon in entire harmony with the northerly latitude of the place. This humidity, together with the character of the open hall in which I used to pass the night as well as the day, increased my indisposition not a little; but the regard for my security did not allow me to seek shelter in the store- room wherein I had placed my luggage, and which, being at the back of the hall, was well protected against cold, and, as it seemed at least, even against wet. For, not to speak of the oppressive atmosphere and almost total darkness which prevailed in that close place, in taking up my residence there I should have exposed myself to the danger of a sudden attack, while from the hall where I was staying I
Cuar. LXVII. MY OWN QUARTERS. 449
was enabled to observe everything which was going on in my house; and through the screen which pro- tected the opening, close by the side of my couch, I could observe everybody that entered my yard long before they saw me. For this reason I preferred this place even to the room on the terrace, although the latter had the advantage of better air. I may observe that these upper rooms in general form the private residence of most of the people in the town who have the luxury of such an upper story.
1. First segiffa, or, as it is called in Songhay, “ sffa,” or ante-room. 2. Second segifa, with a staircase, or “tintim,” (3) 8 : leading to the terrace, “ garbéne,” and the front : room on the terrace, where three of my people well- a We ee of y armed were constantly keeping watch. 6 f 4. Inner court-yard. aoe ween §=6 fh, Hall, with two open entrances, wherein I had my 6 | Hi residence by night and day, on the reed-bed on ee at eel the right. 7 6. Store-room capable of being locked up. 4 r : 7. Covered passage, or corridor. H 68. Second court-yard, originally intended for the fe- Seened ae male department, but where I kept my horse, the 2 ee) surrounding rooms as well as the back wall of the house being in a state of decay.
About three o’clock in the morning, — yponaay, while I was lying restlessly on my couch, September 26th. endeavouring in vain to snatch a moment’s sleep, the Sheikh Sidi A’hmed el Bakdy arrived. The music, which was immediately struck up in front of his house by the women, was ill adapted to procure me rest ;
VOL. IV. GG
450 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnap, LXVII.
while the arrival of my protector, on whose disposition and power the success of my whole undertaking and my own personal safety fully depended, excited my imagination in the highest degree, and thus con- tributed greatly to increase my feverish state.
The following day I was so illas to be quite unable to pay my respects to my protector, who sent me a message begging me to quiet myself, as I might rest assured that nothing but my succumbing to illness could prevent me from safely returning to my native home. Meanwhile, as a proof of his hospitable dis- position, he sent me a handsome present, consisting of two oxen, two sheep, two large vessels of butter, one camel load, or “ suniye,” of rice, and another of negro-corn, cautioning me, at the same time, against eating any food which did not come from his own house. In order to cheer my spirits, he at once begged me to choose between the three roads by which I wanted to return home —either through the country of the Fulbe, or in a boat on the river, or, by land, through the district of the Tawarek.
As from the first I had been fully aware that neither the disposition of the natives, and especially that of the present rulers of the country, the Fulbe, nor the state of my means, would allow me to proceed west- ward, and as I felt persuaded that laying down the course of the Niger from Timbuktu to Say would far outweigh in importance a journey through the upper country towards the Senegal, I was firm in desiring from the beginning to be allowed to visit Gégd. For
Cuarp. LXVII. PROSPECTS OF HOME JOURNEY. Ad]
not deeming it prudent, in order to avoid creating unnecessary suspicion, to lay too great stress upon navigating the river, I preferred putting forward the name of the capital of the Songhay empire; as in visiting that place I was sure that I should see at least the greater part of the river, while at the same time I should come into contact with the Tawdarek, who are the ruling tribe throughout its whole course.
But the generous offer of my friend was rather premature ; and if at that time I had known that I was still to linger in this quarter for eight months longer, in my then feeble condition, I should scarcely have been able to support such an idea; but for- tunately Providence does not reveal to man what awaits him, and he toils on without rest in the dark.
This was the anniversary of the death of 9g, .saay, Mr. Overweg, my last and only European September 27th. companion, whom I had now outlived a whole year ; and whom, considering the feeble state of my health at this time, while my mind was oppressed with the greatest anxiety, I was too likely soon to follow to the grave. Nevertheless, feeling a little better when rising from my simple couch in the morning, and con- fiding in the protection tendered me by a man whose straightforward character was the theme of general admiration, and which plainly appeared in the few lines which I had received from him, I fondly cherished the hope that this day next year it might be my good fortune to have fairly embarked upon my home journey from Negroland, and perhaps not to be far
Ge 2
452 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVII.
from home itself. I therefore, with cheerful spirit, made myself ready for my first audience, and leaving my other presents behind, and taking only a small six- barrelled pistol with me, which I was to present to the Sheikh, I proceeded to his house, which was almost opposite my own, there intervening between them only a narrow lane and a small square, where the Sheikh had established his “ msid,” or daily place of prayer. A’hmed el Bakay, son of Sidi Mohammed, and grandson of Sidi Mukhtar*, of the tribe of the Kunta, was at that time a man of about fifty years of age, rather above the middle height, full proportioned, with a cheerful, intelligent, and almost European coun- tenance, of a rather blackish complexion, with whiskers of tolerable length, intermingled with some grey hair, and with dark eyelashes. His dress consisted at the time of nothing but a black tobe, a fringed shawl thrown loosely over the head, and trowsers, both of the same colour.
I found my host in the small upper room on the terrace, in company with his young nephew, Moham- med Ben Khottar, and two confidential pupils, and, at the very first glance which I obtained of him, I was agreeably surprised at finding a man whose coun- tenance itself bore testimony to a straightforward and manly character; both which qualities J had found so sadly wanting in his younger brother, Sidi A’la- wate. Cheered by the expression of good-nature
* For the whole genealogy of the Sheikh see Appendix VII.
Cuar. LXVIL. FIRST INTERVIEW WITH THE SHEIKH. 453
in his countenance as he rose from his seat to receive me, and relieved from all anxiety, I paid him my compliments with entire confidence, and entered into a conversation, which was devoid of any af- fected and empty ceremonious phrases, but from the first moment was an unrestrained exchange of thoughts, between two persons who, with great national diversity of manners and ideas, meet for the first time.
The pistol, however, with which I presented him, soon directed our conversation to the subject of the superiority of Europeans in manufacturing skill, and in the whole scale of human existence; and one of the first questions which my host put to me was, whether it was true, as the Rais (Major Laing) had informed his father, Sidi Mohammed, during his stay in A’zawad, that the capital of the British em- pire contained twenty times 100,000 people.
I then learned to my great satisfaction what I afterwards found confirmed by the facts stated in Major Laing’s correspondence”, that this most enter- prising but unfortunate traveller, having been plun-
dered and almost killed by the Tawarekf, in the
* See Major Laing’s Letters in the Edinburgh Review, vol. XXXviii. 1828, p. 101, e¢ seqg., and vol. xxxix.
{ There cannot be the least doubt that, in addition to the love of plunder, it was also a certain feeling of revenge for the mischief inflicted upon their countrymen by the heroic Mungo Park which prompted this ferocious act of the Tawarek; and itis very curious to observe the presentiment that Major Laing had, on setting out from Tawat, of what awaited him, as most distinctly embodied in
Ges
454 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXVII.
valley Ahénnet, on his way from Tawat, was con- ducted by his guides to, and made a long stay at, the camp or station of the Sheikh’s father, Sidi Mo- hammed, in the hillet Sidi el Mukhtar, the place generally called by Major Laing Beled Sidi Moham- med, but sometimes Beled Sidi Mooktar, the Major being evidently puzzled as to these names, and apt to confound the then head of the family, Sidi Moham- med, with the ancestor Sidi Mukhtdr, after whom that holy place has been called. It is situated half a day’s journey from the frequented well Bel Mehan, on the great northerly road, but is at present de- serted.*
some of his letters, dated Tawadt, Jan. 1826, especially in a letter addressed to James Bandinel, Esq., which General Edward Sabine, the great friend of the distinguished traveller, kindly allowed me to inspect.
* Instead of communicating the itinerary from Timbuktu to the hillet in my collection of itineraries through the western half of the desert, at the end of the following volume, where it would be overlooked by the general reader, I prefer inserting it in this place :—
13 day, Tenég el hay, or Tenég el haj, a well where all the roads meet. A great many celebrated localities along this part of the road.
1 day, Tin-tahdén, about the heat of the day ; a locality so called from an eminence, ‘tah6n.”
1 day, Worozil, a well with a rich supply of water, about the same time.
1 day, E’n-elahi, a whole day. From hence to the small town Bu-Jebéha, passing by the well e’ Twil, 2 days.
2 days, Erék ; 3 days from A’rawan; 13 from Bua-Jebéha. Close to Eruk is Mérizik.
1 day, Bel-Mehan, a rich and famous well; a long day, keep-
a
Cnar. LXVII. MAJOR LAING. 455
We thus came to speak of Major Laing, here known under the name of E’ Rais (the Major), the only Christian that my host, and most of the people ‘hereabouts, had ever seen; the French traveller, Réné Caillié, who traversed this tract in 1828, having, in his poor disguise, entirely escaped their observation, not to speak of the sailors Adams and Scott, who are said to have visited this place, although their nar- rative does not reveal a single trait which can be identified with its features.
Major Laing, during the whole time of our inter- course, formed one of the chief topics of conversation, and my noble friend never failed to express his ad- miration, not only of the Major’s bodily strength, but of his noble and chivalrous character.* JI made immediate inquiries with regard to Major Laing’s papers, but unfortunately, not being provided with a copy of the blue book containing all the papers re- lating to that case, I had not the means of establishing all the points disputed. I only learnt that at the time none of those papers were in existence, although the Sheikh himself told me that the Major, while
ing along a valley enclosed between the sandhills, “E’gif,” to- wards the W., and the black mountains of A’der4r towards the E.
1 day, Hillet e’ Sheikh.
* It is highly interesting and satisfactory to observe how Major Laing himself, in the letters published in the Edinburgh Review, speaks of the kind reception given to him, when severely wounded, by the Sheikh and maraboot (Merabet) Mooktar, or rather Sidi Mo- hammed. See, especially, p. 105.
GaGa 4
456 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIL.
staying in A’zawad, had drawn up a map of the whole northerly part of the desert from Tawat as far south as the hillet or the place of residence of his father.
Meanwhile, while we were conversing about the fate of my precursor in the exploration of these re- gions, my host assured me repeatedly of my own per- fect safety in the place, and promised that he would send the most faithful of his followers, Mohammed el ‘Aish, with me to the Tawdrek, from whence I might continue my journey in the company of my former companion. Such, I think, was really his intention at the time, but circumstances, which I am soon to detail, were to change all these premature plans.
Having returned to my quarters, I sent my host his present, which consisted of three berntises, viz. one helali, or white silk and cotton mixed, and two of the finest cloth, one of green and the other of red colour; two cloth kaftans, one black and the other yellow; a carpet from Constantinople; four tobes, viz., one very rich, of the kind called “harir,” and bought for 30,000 shells, or twelve dollars, one of the kind called filfil, and two best black tobes ; twenty Spanish dollars in silver; three black shawls, and several smaller articles, the whole amounting to the value of about 30/. He then sent a message to me, expressing his thanks for the liberality of the Government in whose service I was visiting him, and stating that he did not want anything more from me; but he begged that, after my safe return home, I would not
ee ;
Cuar. LXVIL. PRESENTS. — ILLNESS. 457
forget him, but would request Her Majesty’s Govern- ment to send him some good fire-arms and some Arabic books; and I considered myself authorised in assuring him, that I had no doubt the English Government would not fail to acknowledge his services, if he acted in a straightforward manner through- out.
Pleasant and cheering as was this whole interview, nevertheless, in consequence of the considerable ex- citement which it caused me in my weak state, I felt my head greatly affected ; and I was seized with a shivering fit about noon the following day, just as I was going to pay another visit to my friend. On the last day of September, I entered into a rather warm dispute with A’lawdte, whom I met at his brother’s house, and whose ungenerous conduct I could not forget. My protector not possessing sufficient energy, and, in his position, not feeling independent enough to rebuke his brother for the trouble which he had caused me, begged me repeatedly to bear patiently his importunities, though he was aware of my reasons for dishking him. On another occasion, he made me fire off the six-barrelled pistol in front of his house, before a numerous assemblage of people. This caused extraordinary excitement and astonishment among the people, and exercised a great influence upon my future safety, as it made them believe that I had arms all over my person, and could fire as many times as I liked.
Thus the month of September concluded satisfac-
458 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVII.
torily and most auspiciously, as it seemed. For I had not only succeeded in reaching in safety this city, but I was also well received on the whole; and the only question seemed to be how I was to return home by the earliest opportunity and the safest route. But all my prospects changed with the first of the ensuing month, when the difficulties of my situation increased, and all hopes of a speedy departure appeared to be at anend. for in the afternoon of the first of October, a considerable troop of armed men, mustering about twenty muskets, arrived from Hamda-Allahi, the resi- dence of the shekho A’hmedu ben A’hmedu, to whose nominal sway the town of Timbuktu and the whole province has been subjected since the conquest of the town in the beginning of the year 1826. These people brought with them an order from the capital to drive me out of the town; and Hammadi, the nephew and rival of the Sheikh El Bakay, feeling himself strength- ened by the arrival of such a force, availed himself of so excellent an opportunity of enhancing his in- fluence, and, in consequence, issued a proclamation to the inhabitants of the town, commanding them, in stringent terms, to attend to the orders of the emir, and in the event of my offering resistance, not even to spare my life.
There can scarcely be any doubt that my protector, as far as a man of a rather weak character was capable of any firm resolution, had intended to send me off by the very first opportunity that should offer; but the order issued by the emir of Hamda-Allahi (to
Cuar. LXVIL. ORDERS FROM HAMDA ALLA’HI. 459
whose authority, he was vehemently opposed), that I should be forthwith driven out of the town or slain, roused his spirit of opposition. He felt, too, that the difficulties of my leaving this place in safety were thus greatly augmented. All thoughts of my immediate departure were therefore set aside ; partly, no doubt, from regard to my security, but much more from an anxious desire to show the Fullan, or Fulbe, that he was able to keep me here, notwithstanding their hostile disposition and their endeavours to the con- trary. There were, besides, the intrigues of the Walati, my guide on the journey from Yagha, who, finding that the Sheikh did not approve of his dishonest conduct towards me, endeavoured to get me out of his hands, in order that he might deal with me as he liked. My broker, too, “Ali el A’geren, seeing the difficulties of my situation, gave me entirely up, making his own safety the only object of his thoughts.
The Sheikh, when he had fully understood what I had told him with regard to the power and the poli- tical principles of the sovereign of Great Britain, had determined to write a letter with his own hand, ex- pressing his satisfaction that I had come to pay him my compliments, and in order to endeavour to coun- teract the discouraging effects produced by the ac- count of Major Laing’s death, and, if possible, to obtain for himself a few presents. This letter, it was understood in the beginning, I myself should take with me; but, in the evening of the third of October, I suddenly, to my great amazement, re-
460 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVII.
ceived the intelligence that I was to send my man, ‘Ali el A’geren, to Ghadames or Tripoli with this letter, accompanying it with a note from my own hand, while I myself remained behind, as a kind of hostage, in Timbuktu, until the articles which the Sheikh El] Bakay had written for were received. But I was not to be treated in this way by intrigues of my own people; and the following morning I sent a simple protest to the Sheikh, stating that, as for himself, he might do just as he liked, and if he chose to keep me as a prisoner or hostage, he might do so as long as he thought fit; but that he must not ex- pect to receive so much as a needle from the Go- vernment that had sent me until I myself should have returned in safety. My host, too, had just before intimated to me that it would be best to de- liver my horse and my gun into his hands; but I sent him an answer, that neither the one nor the other should leave my house until my head had left my shoulders. It was rather remarkable that a person of so mean a character as the Walati should for a mo- ment gain the upper hand of a man of such an excel- lent disposition as the Sheikh; but it was quite natural that this clever rogue should continually incite Sidi A‘lawate to make new demands upon my small store of valuable articles.
Meanwhile, while I was thus kept in a constant state of excitement, I was not free from anxiety In other respects. A thunder-storm, accompanied by the most plentiful rain which I experienced during my stay
ae LAT ey:
Cuar. LXVII. INTRIGUES SUCCESSFULLY OVERCOME. 461
in this place, had in the afternoon of the 3rd October inundated my house, and, breaking through the wall of my store-room, had damaged the whole of my luggage, my books, and medicines, as well as my presents and articles of exchange. But my situa- tion was soon to improve, as the Sheikh became aware of the faithless and despicable character of my former companion and guide; and while he ordered the latter to fetch my camels from A’ribinda, which it was now but too apparent he had sold on his own account instead of having them taken care of for me, he informed me of what had come to his knowledge of the Walati’s previous character and disreputable habits.
The Emir of Hamda-Alléhi’s sending a force to Timbuktu in order to dispose of me, with the assistance of the inhabitants of that town, without paying the slightest regard to the opinion of my protector, had caused a considerable reaction in the whole relation of the Sheikh to the towns-people, and he had made up his mind to pitch his camp outside the city, in order to convince the inhabitants, and the Fullan in particular, that he did not depend upon them, but had mightier friends and a more powerful spell upon which he could safely rely. He had even, while still absent in Gundam, opened communication with A’wab, the chief of the Tademékket, to this effect.
But all these proceedings required more energy and a more warlike character than, | am sorry to say, my friend and protector actually possessed; and our ad-
4.62 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVII.
versaries were so busy, that, in the night of the 9th, owing to the arrival of a party of Tawarek, who were well known not to be friendly disposed towards him, he was so intimidated, that at two o’clock in the morning he himself came to my house, rousing us from our sleep and requesting us most urgently to keep watch, as he was afraid that something was going on against me. We therefore kept a constant look out the whole night on our terrace, and seeing that the rear of our house was in a partial state of decay, facilitating an attack in that quarter, we set. to work early in the morning repairing the wall and barricading it with thorny bushes. The artisans of the town were so afraid of the party hostile to me, who were the nominal rulers, that no one would undertake the task of re- pairing my house. However, the more intelligent natives of the place did all in their power to prevent my learned friend from leaving the town, as they felt sure that such a proceeding would be the commence- ment of troubles. The consequence was, that we did not get off on the 10th, although the Sheikh had sent his wife and part of his effects away the preced- ing night, and it was not till a little before noon the following day that we actually left the town.
463
CHAP. LXVIII.
FIRST RESIDENCE IN THE DESERT. — POLITICAL COMBINATIONS. —- GREAT MOSQUE. — GROUND-PLAN OF THE TOWN.
THIS was an important moment for myself,
as, with the exception of an occasional visit Mane to the Sheikh, who lived only a few yards across the street, and an almost daily promenade on my terrace, I had not moved about since my arrival. With a deep consciousness of the critical position in which I was placed, I followed my protector, who, mounted on his favourite white mare, led the way through the streets of the town, along which the assembled na- tives were thronging in order to get a glance at me. Leaving the high mounds of rubbish which constitute the groundwork of the northern part of the town on our left, and pursuing a north-north-easterly direction over a sandy tract covered with stunted bushes, and making only a short halt near a well five miles from the town, for the purpose of watering our horses, after a march of two miles more we reached the camp, which could easily be recognised at a great distance by two large white cotton tents, whose size and situation made them conspicuous above some
464 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIII.
smaller leathern dwellings. It was just about sunset ; and the open country with its rich mimosas, and with the camp on the rising ground, the white sandy soil of which was illumined by the last rays of the setting sun, presented an interesting spectacle. The younger inhabitants of the camp, including Babé Ahmed and ‘Abidin, two favourite boys of the Sheikh, one five, the other four years of age, came out to meet us; and I soon afterwards found myself lodged in an in- digenous tent of camel’s hair, which was pitched at the foot of the hill, belonging to Mohammed el Khalil, a relative of the Sheikh, who had come from his native home in Tiris, on the shores of the Atlantic, in order to share his uncle’s blessing.
In this encampment we passed several days in the most quiet and retired manner, when my friend re- vealed to me his course of action. It was his inten- tion, he said, to bring the old chief Galaijo, from the place of his exile in Champagore, back to this part of Negroland, which he had formerly ruled, and to reinstate him, by the aid of the Tawarek, in the government of Masina with the residence Hamda- Alléhi, of which he was to deprive the family of Lebbo. But even if it was true, as he said, that the Fulbe themselves, as well those settled between Fermagha and Gundam, as those inhabiting the provinces of Dalla, Dwenza, and Gilgdji, were op- posed to the government of Lebbo, such a project appeared to me to require a greater share of perse- verance and determination than, from all that J had
Pear. LXVIIL. THE CAMP. AG5
seen, I could believe my noble friend possessed. How- ever, he entertained no doubt at that time that Alkut- tabu, the great chief of the Tawdrek himself, would come to his aid without delay and conduct me, under his powerful protection, safely along the banks of the Niger.
However exaggerated the projects of my protector were, considering his mild disposition, and although by exasperating the Fulbe more and more he no doubt increased the difficulties of my situation, the moving of his encampment outside the town afforded me a great deal of relief, both in consequence of the change of air which it procured me, and of the varied scenery. I could also get here a little exercise, although the more open the country was, the greater care I had to take of my safety. In the morning, particularly, the camp presented a very animated sight. The two large white tents of cotton cloth, with their top-cover- ing, or “sardamme,” of chequered design, and their woollen curtains of various colours, were half opened to allow the morning air to pervade them. The other smaller ones were grouped picturesquely around on the slope, which was enlivened by camels, cattle, and goats, that were just being driven out. All nature was awake and full of bustle, and the trees were swarming with white pigeons. In the evening, again, there were the cattle returning from their pasturage, the slaves bringing water on the backs of the asses, and the people grouped together in the simple place of devo- tion, laid out with thorny bushes, in order to say
VOL. IV. ist Jz
466 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIII.
their prayers, guided by the melodious voice of their teacher, who never failed to join them. At this time a chapter of the Kuran was chanted by the best in- structed of the pupils, and continued often till.a late hour at night, the sound of these beautiful verses, in their melodious fall, reverberating from the downs around; at other times animated conversation ensued, and numerous groups gathered on the open ground by the side of the fire.
We returned into the town on the 13th. The first day had passed off rather quietly, save that a party of twelve Iméshagh, of the tribe of the Igwadaren, partly mounted on camels, partly on horses, trespassed on the hospitality of the Sheikh. I had an opportunity of inspecting their swords, and was not a little sur- prised at finding that they were all manufactured in the German town of Solingen, as indeed were almost all the swords of these Tawarek, or Imdshagh.
The interests of the different members of the family now began to clash. The Sheikh himself was firm in his opposition against the Fulbe, and requested me in future, when I visited him, to come to his house fully armed, in order to show our adversaries that I was ready to repulse any violence; and it was in vain that I protested that, as I came with peaceable inten- tions, nothing could be farther from my wish than to cause any disturbance in the town. Meanwhile his brother, Sidi Alawate, suborned one of the Sheikh’s pupils to make another attempt to convert me to Islamism. This man, who was one of the most
. SSS es. ee ae: re
Se
® i 2 ¢
Cnar. LXVITI. ATTEMPT AT PROSELYTISM. 467
learned followers of the Sheikh, having resided for nearly thirty years in the family, first with the Sheikh Sidi Mohammed, then with his eldest son El Mukhtar, who succeeded him in the dignity of a Sheikh during Major Laing’s residence in A’zawad, and finally with the Sheikh el Bakay himself, origi- nally belonged to the Arab tribe of the Welad Rashid, whose settlements in Waday I have mentioned on a former occasion. Partly on this account, partly on account of his great religious knowledge, and his volu- bility of speech, he possessed great influence with all the people, although his prudence and forbearance were not conspicuous. But finding that his usual arguments in favour of his creed did not avail with me, he soon desisted. This was the last time these people attempted to make me a proselyte to their religion, with the exception of some occasional serious advice from my friends under the temporary pres- sure of political difficulties.
The emir of the place, of the name of Katiri, who was a good-natured man, and whose colleague, Belle, was absent at the time, having advised my protec- tor to take me again out of the town for a few days, till the kadhi A’hmed Weled F'aamme, who was going to Hamda-Allahi, and who was especially hostilely dis- posed towards me, should have left, we again set out, on the morning of the 17th October; but, having stayed in the encampment that night and the follow- ing morning, we returned to the town the same after- noon, but left again on the morning of the 20th,
HH 2
468 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVIII.
when the kafla of the Tawatiye was ready to set out
on their journey to the north, and stayed with them during the heat of the day. They were encamped in about twenty-four small leathern tents, round the
well where we had a few days previously watered
our horses, and mustered more than fifty muskets,
each of them being armed, moreover, with a spear
and sword; but notwithstanding their numbers, and
the circumstance that a rather respectable man, of
the name of Haj A’hmed, the wealthiest person of InsAla or “Ain-Sala, was among them, and was to accompany them as far as Mamun, I felt no inclina- tion to go with this caravan, and thus to deprive myself of the opportunity of surveying the river, nor did my protector himself seem to find in this northerly road any sufficient guarantee for my safe return home. I therefore only made use of this opportunity in order . to send to Europe, by way of Ghadames, a short re-
port of my arrival in Timbuktu, and a general outline of the political circumstances connected with my stay in the city.
The caravan having started the following morning, we stayed two days longer in the camp, and then once more returned into the town, without any fur- ther difficulty, in the company of Sidi A’lawdte, who had come out to join us with a body of armed fol- lowers, and who behaved now, on the whole, much more amiably towards me. He even gave me some interesting particulars with respect to Ségo*, which
;
* The chief information related to the eircumstance that all
Cuaar. LXVIII. MOVEMENTS OF THE FU’LBE, 469
place he had visited some time before, levying upon Dembo, then king of Bambara, a heavy contribution of gold. This king who was sprung from a Pullo mother, had succeeded his father Farma, the son of the king mentioned by Mungo Park under the name of Mansong, two years previously.*
The Fulbe, however, did not give up their point, and, as they did not find themselves strong enough to proceed to open violence, made an indirect attack upon me by putting in irons on the 27th some Arabs or Moors, on the pretext of having neglected their prayers, thereby protesting strongly enough against a person of an entirely different creed staying in the town. The emir Kauri himself, who, on the whole, seemed to be a man of good sense, was in a most awkward position; and when the kadhi informed him, that, if he was not able to execute the order which he had received from his liege lord, he should solicit the assistance of the people of Timbuktu, he the four quarters of that town, together with two other quar- ters which in a wider sense are included in the place, are situated on the south side of the river, as has been stated already in Recueil des Voyages, tom. ii. p.53. Mungo Park, who states (First Journey p. 195.) the contrary, was evidently mistaken; and from the cir- cumstances under which he passed by Ségo, as a despised and sus- pected person, his mistake is easily intelligible. The two quarters which in a wider sense still belong to Ségo are called Bendn- koré and Bammabugu, in the former of which a well frequented market is held. There is, besides, a village close by called Bebara.
* My information as to the succession of the kings of Bambara does not agree with that received by M. Faidherbe, the present
governor of Senegal, published in the ‘‘ Revue Coloniale,” 1857, p.279. I shall refer to this subject in another place.
HH 3
470 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIII.
refused to have recourse to violence till he had re- ceived stricter orders to that effect and more effectual aid; for, in the event of his having driven me out, and anything having befallen me, the whole blame would be thrown upon him, as had been the case with Sidi Bu-Bakr the governor, who, obeying the orders of Mohammed Lebbo, had obliged the Rais (Major Laing) to leave the town, and thus, in some measure was the cause of his death, that distinguished tra- veller having thrown himself in despair into the arms of Hamed Weled ‘Abéda, the chief of the Berabish, who murdered him in the desert.
But, on the other hand, the emir endeavoured «to dissuade my protector, who was about to send a messenger to Alkuttabu*, the great chief of the Awe- limmiden, to summon him to his assistance, from carrying out his intention, fearing lest the result of this proceeding might be a serious conflict between the Tawarek and the Fulbe. However, from all that I saw, I became aware that the chance of my de- parture was more remote than ever, and that, at least this year, there was very little prospect of my leaving this place; for the messenger whom the Sheikh was to send to the Tarki chief, and of whose departure there had been much talk for so long a time, had not yet left, and the chief’s residence was several hundred miles off. I therefore again pro-
* T will here remark, although I have to speak repeatedly of this chief, that the name seems to be an abbreviation, meaning pro-
bably oie) oe that is, “ pillar of the faith.”
Cuap. LXVIII. ANNOYING CIRCUMSTANCES. . ATE
tested to my friend that it was my earnest desire to set out on my home journey as soon as possible, and that I felt not a little annoyed at the continual pro- crastination.
Several circumstances concurred at this time to make me feel the delay the more deeply, so that not- withstanding my sincere esteem for my protector, I thought it better, when he again left the town in the evening of the 27th, to remain where I was; for after my return from our last excursion, in consequence of the severe cold during the night, I had been visited by a serious attack of rheumatism, which had rendered me quite lame for a day or two.
With regard to the means of my departure, the Wa- lati, whom I had sent out at a great expense to bring my horses and camels from the other side of the river, had brought back my horses in the most emaciated con- dition. As for the camels, he had intended to appro- priate them to his own use; but I defeated his scheme by making a present of them to the Sheikh. This brought all the Walati’s other intrigues to light, especially the circumstance of his having presented a small pistol (which I had given to himself) to Ham- madi, the Sheikh’s rival, intimating that it came from me, and thus endangering my whole position, by making the Sheikh believe that I was giving presents to his rivals and his enemies. But my protector acted nobly on this occasion; for he not only warned me against the intrigues of the Walati, and would not lend an ear to his numerous calumnies
HH 4
472 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIII.
against me, but he even preferred me, the Christian, to my Mohammedan companion, the Meéjebri, ‘Ali el A’geren, who was sometimes led, through fear, to take the part of the Walati; and the Meéjebri, who thought himself almost a sherif, and was murmuring his prayers the whole evening long, felt not a little hurt and excited when he found that the Sheikh placed infinitely more reliance upon me than upon himself.
In order to convince the Sheikh how sensible I was of the confidence which he placed in me, I made a present of a blue cloth kaftan to Mohammed Boy, the son of the chief Galaijo, who had studied with him for a year or two, and was now about to return home by way of Hamda-Allahi. But, unluckily, I had not many such presents to offer, and a nobleman of the name of Mulay ‘Abd e’ Salam, who had sent me a hospitable present of wheat and rice, was greatly offended at not receiving from me a _ bernts in return.
Meanwhile the Fulbe, or Fullan, sent orders to Dar e’ Salam, the capital of the district of Zankara, that their countrymen inhabiting that province should enter Timbuktu as soon as the Sheikh should leave it. The latter, in order to show these people the influ- ence he possessed, decided upon taking me with him on an excursion to Kabara, which is the harbour on the river, where the Fulbe were generally acknow- ledged to possess greater power than in Timbuktu, on account of the distance of the latter from the water. I followed him gladly, that I might have an
wo 2 ee
) |
Cuar. LXVIII. EXCURSION TO KA/BARA. A73
opportunity of observing the different aspect of the country two months after the date when I had first traversed it. In fact the landscape had now a very different appearance, being entirely changed in conse- quence of the abundant rains which had fallen in September and October. The whole sandy level, which before looked so dull and dreary, was now covered with herbage; while that part of the road nearer the town had been a little cleared of wood, apparently in order to prevent the Tawarek from lurking near the road and surprising travellers. Further on, when we approached the village of Ka- bara, all the fields were overgrown with water-melons, which form a considerable branch of the industry of the inhabitants.
We dismounted, at length, close to Kabara, in the shade of a talha tree, clearing the ground and making ourselves as comfortable as possible. A great number of people collected round us, not only from the village of Kabara, but also from the town; even the governor, or emir, Kauri, came out to see what we were doing here.
By way of making some sort of popular display, and showing his enemies the extent of his authority, my protector here distributed the presents which he had destined for Boy and his companions, who, before returning to their home in the province of Galaijo, were first going to pay their compliments to the sheikho A’hmedu in Hamda-Allahi. He also sent the very bernus which I had intended for “Abd e’ Saldm to
A474 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVIII.-
‘Abd Allahi*, the uncle ofthe young sheikho A’/hmeduof Hamda-Allahi. While the emir walked up and down, at some distance from the spot where we had taken up our position, in order to have a look at me, we were treated hospitably by the inspector of the harbour (a cheerful old man of the name of ‘Abd el Kasim, and of sup- posed sherif origin), with several dishes of excellent kuskus, one of which fell to my share: and I was de- hghted to see that, notwithstanding the decline of everything in this distracted region, the old office of an inspector of the harbour still retained a certain degree of importance. But I lamented that I was not allowed to survey at my leisure the general features of the locality, which had entirely changed since my first visit to this place. The river had inundated the whole of the lowlands, so that the water, which
* T will give, in this place, some particulars as to the court of Hamda-Allahi; a!\ s4= the name is written by the natives.
Mohammed Lebbo ruled from Aa.H. 1241 to 1262; his son Sheikho (pronounced also Seko) A‘hmedu, till 1269. This is the chief whom M. Faidherbe (Revue Col. 1857, p. 279) calls Balégo, a Mandingo name, which means nothing but “war chief.” Sheikho A’hmedu, in spite of the opposition of a strong party, was succeeded by his young son A’hmedu. All the members of the royal family live together in one and the same court- yard, which has something of a round shape, the yard of the chief himself forming the centre, and those of the four surviving sons of Mohammed Lebbo, viz. ‘Abd Allahi, ‘Abd e’ Salam, Hamidu, and ‘Abd e’ Rahman, lying opposite each other around the wall. Of these uncles of the sheikho, ‘Abd Allahi is the richest, and is said to possess a great amount of gold, 1700 slaves, 1900 head of cattle, 40 horses, and 20 boats on the river.
see ee el ee
Cuap. LXVIII. A FEW PALM TREES. A415
had before only formed a narrow ditch-like channel, now presented a wide open sheet, affording easy ac- cess to the native craft of all sizes.
Having then mounted in the afternoon, after a pleasant ride we reached the town; but instead of directly entering the dilapidated walls, we turned off a little to the west, towards a small plantation of date trees (marked ° in the plan of the town), of the exist- ence of which I had had no previous idea; for small and © insignificant as it was, it claimed considerable interest in this arid tract, there being at present only four or five middle-sized trees, rather poor specimens of the hajilij, or balanites, inside the town; although we know that before the time of the conquest of Songhay by the Moroccains, the city was not so poor in vege- tation; but the inspector of the harbour having fled on that occasion with the whole fleet, the basha Mahmud cut down all the trees in and around the town for the purpose of ship-building.
The little oasis consisted of three nearly full-grown date-trees, but of small size, only one of them bearing fruit, while around there were about ten very young bushes, which, if not well taken care of, scarcely seemed to promise ever to become of any value. The planta- tion, poor as it was, owed its existence to the neighbourhood of a deep well, of immense size, being about thirty yards in diameter and five fathoms deep, wherein the water collects.
Having loitered here a few moments, and visited a small and poor plantation in the neighbourhood be-
476 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIII.
longing to the Tawati, Mohammed el “Aish, we turned off towards the Jingeré-bér, or “ great mosque,” which by its stately appearance made a deep impres- sion upon my mind, as I had not yet had an opportu- nity of inspecting it closely. It was here especially that I convinced myself, not only of the trustworthy character of Caillié’s report in general, of which I had already had an opportunity of judging, but also of the accuracy with which, under the very unfavour- able circumstances in which he was placed, he has described the various objects which fell under his observation. I was only permitted to survey the outside of the mosque; as to the interior, I was obliged to rely upon the information which I received from the more intelligent of the natives.
The mosque is a large building, but a considerable portion of it is occupied by an open courtyard, wherein the larger tower is enclosed, while the principal part of the building includes nine naves, of different dimen- sions and structure; the westernmost portion, which consists of three naves, belonging evidently to the old mosque, which, together with the palace, was built by Mansa Musa, the king of Melle, as is even attested by an inscription over the principal gate, although it has become somewhat illegible. The chief error which Caillié has committed in describing this mosque re- lates to the smaller tower, the position of which he has mistaken, and the number of gateways on the eastern side, there being seven instead of five. Caillié also states the greatest length of the building to be 104
—— So ee ee a ee
| |
Cuar. LXVIII. GROUNDPLAN OF TIMBU’KTU. 477
paces; while my intelligent friend Mohammed ben
‘Aish assured me that, after measuring it with the greatest accuracy, he found it to be 262 French feet in length, by 194 in width.”
If this building, which stands just at the western extremity, and forms the south-western corner of the town, were situated in the centre, it would be in- finitely more imposing; but it 1s evident that in for- mer times the mosque was surrounded by buildings on the western side. The city formerly was twice as large.
While we were surveying this noble pile, numbers of people collected round us,—this being the quarter inhabited principally by the Fulbe, or Fullan,—and when we turned our steps homewards, they followed us along the streets through the market, which was now empty, but without making the least hostile manifes- tation. On the contrary, many of them gave me their hands.
Soon after my arrival in the place, I had sent home a small plan of the town. This I now found to be inaccurate in some respects; and I here therefore subjoin a more correct plan of the town, although on a rather small scale,— the circumstances under which I resided there not having allowed me to survey the greater part of it accurately enough fora more minute delineation.
The city of Timbuktu, according to Dr. Petermann’s
* Trecommend the reader who takes any interest in the subject to read the whole passage of Caillié relating to this mosque,
English ed. vol. ii. p. 71. The Tawati took the measurement with my line.
478
HIM
Ph te LAW,
Va ‘eit
" vil yw Ne
“Uy
10. fat
Wy MT Y,
TRAVELS IN AFRICA.
PLAN OF TIMBUKTU.
ene OF
FAKiN MAHMUD
CANT ZANT
“yy nee abe ee
1d i
aD ws ats
& =] lida. Sun
Ay, Zs i“ Uy,
uh i
Et
100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1290 1300 1400 1500 1600 Yards.
1. House of the Sheikh A’hmed el Bakay, with another house belonging
to the same close by, and having in front of it a small square, where
he has established a “ msid,” or place of prayer for his pupils, several of whom pass the night here.
House belonging likewise to the Sheikh, where I myself was ledged, the ground plan of which I have given above.
Great mosque, “Gingere (Jingeré, or Zangeré) bér, Jaém‘a el kebira,” begun by Mansa Musa, king of Melle, a.p. 1327, and forming, for many centuries, the centre of the Mohammedan quarter.
Mosque Sdnkoré, in the quarter Sankoré, which is generally re- garded as the oldest quarter of the town. naves, and is 120 feet long by 80 feet wide.
Mosque Sidi Yahia, much smaller than the two other large mosques. Great market-place, or Yubu.
The mosque has five
Butchers’ market, where in former times the palace, or “Ma-duk,” or Ma-dugu, is said to have been situated.
Gate leading to Kabara.
Well, surrounded by a small plantation of date trees.
Another well, with a small garden, belonging to Mohammed el ‘Aish.
Spot in a shallow valley, up to which point small boats ascended from the Niger, in the winter 1853-4.
Cuar. LXVIIL.
Cuae. LXVII. DESCRIPTION OF TIMBU’/KTU. 479
laying down of it from my materials, lies in 17° 37’ N. and 3° 5’ W. of Greenwich. Situated only a few feet above the average level of the river, and at a distance of about six miles from the principal branch, it at present forms a sort of triangle, the base of which points towards the river, whilst the projecting angle is directed towards the north, having for its centre the mosque of Sankoré. But, during the zenith of its power, the town extended a thousand yards further north, and included the tomb of the faki Mahmud, which, according to some of my informants, was then situated in the midst of the town. 7
The circumference of the city at the present time I reckon at a little more than two miles and a half ; but it may approach closely to three miles, taking into account some of the projecting angles. Al- though of only small size, Timbuktu may well be called a city — medina —%in comparison with the frail dwelling-places all over Negroland. At pre- sent it is not walled. Its former wall, which seems never to have been of great magnitude, and was rather more of the nature of a rampart, was destroyed by the Fulbe on their first entering the place in the beginning of the year 1826. The town is laid out partly in rectangular, partly in winding, streets, or, as they are called here, “ tijerAten,” which are not paved, but for the greater part consist of hard sand and gravel, and some of them have a sort of gutter in the middle. Besides the large and the small market there are few open areas, except a small square in
480 ; TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. LXWIEL.
front of the mosque of Yahia, called Tumbutu-bot- tema.
Small as it is, the city is tolerably well inhabited, and almost all the houses are in good repair. There are about 980 clay houses, and a couple of hundred conical huts of matting, the latter, with a few ex- ceptions, constituting the outskirts of the town on the north and north-east sides, where a great deal of rubbish, which has been accumulating in the course of several centuries, is formed into conspicuous mounds. The clay houses are all of them built on the same principle as my own residence, which I have described, with the exception that the houses of the poorer people have only one courtyard, and have no upper room on the terrace.
The only remarkable public buildings in the town are the three large mosques: the Jingeré-bér, built by Mansa Musa; the mosque of Sankoré, built, at an early period, at the expense of a wealthy woman ; and the mosque Sidi Ydahia, built at the expense of a kadhi of the town. There were three other mosques: that of Sidi Héj Mohammed, Msid Belal, and that of Sidi el Bami. These mosques, and perhaps some little msid, or place of prayer, Caillié must have in- cluded when he speaks * of seven mosques. Besides these mosques, there are at present no distinguished public buildings in the town ; and of the royal palace,
or Ma-dugu, wherein the kings of Songhay used to
* Caillié, Travels to Timbuctoo, vol. ii. p. 56.
=
Oia ea a a eae iok Eg Son
Cuar. LXVIII. DESCRIPTION OF TIMBU’KTU. A81
reside occasionally, as well as the Kasbah, which was built in later times, in the south-eastern quarter, or the “‘ Sane-gungu*, which already at that time was inhabited by the merchants from Ghadames f, not a trace is to be seen. Besides this quarter, which is the wealthiest, and contains the best houses, there are six other quarters, viz. Yubu, the quarter com- prising the great market-place (yuibu) and the mosque of Sidi Yahia, to the west of Sane-gungu ; and west of the former, forming the south-western angle of the town, and called from the great mosque, Jingeré-bér or Zangere-bér. This latter quarter, from the most ancient times, seems to have been inhabited especially by Mohammedans, and not unlikely may have formed a distinct quarter, separated from the rest of the town by a wall of its own. Towards the north, the quarter Sane-gungu is bordered by the one called Sara-kaina, meaning literally the “little town,” and containing the residence of the Sheikh, and the house where I myself was lodged. Attached to Sara- kaina, towards the north, is Yubu-kdina, the quarter containing the “little market,” which is especially used as a butchers’ market. Bordering both on Jin- geré-bér aud Yubu-kaina, is the quarter Bagindi, oc- cupying the lowest situation in the town, and stated by the inhabitants to have been flooded entirely in
* Sane-gungu means, properly, the island, or the quarter of the whites, “ kirsh el bedhan.”
+ See about the Kasbah, Ah’med Baba’s account, Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society, vol. ix. p. 550.
VOL. IV. II
482 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIIL.
the great inundation which took place in 1640. From this depression in the ground, the quarter of Sankoré, which forms the northernmost angle of the city, rises to a considerable elevation, in such a manner, that the mosque of Sankoré, which seems to occupy its ancient site and level, is at present situated in a deep hollow — an appearance which seems to prove that this ele- vation of the ground is caused by the accumulation of rubbish, in consequence of the repeated ruin which seems to have befallen this quarter pre-eminently, as being the chief stronghold of the native Songhay. The slope which this quarter forms towards the north- eastern end, in some spots exceeds eighty feet.
The whole number of the settled inhabitants of the town amounts to about 13,000; while the floating population, during the months of the greatest traffic and intercourse, especially from November to January, may amount, on an average, to 5000, and under fa- vourable circumstances to as many as 10,000. Of the different elements composing this population, and of their distinguishing features, I shall say a few words in another place. I now revert to the diary of my own proceedings.
In the evening of the next day I again went with the Sheikh out of the town to the tents, where we were to stay two days, but where we in fact spent six; my friend finding himself very happy in the company of his wife, to whom he was sincerely attached. Not only my companions, but even I myself, began to find it rather tedious in the dull encampment, as I had
|
Cuap. LXVIII INTERESTING CONVERSATIONS. 483
scarcely any books with me to pass away my time, and my situation not allowing me to enter too closely into the discussions of my companions, as in that case they would have redoubled their endeavours to convert me to their creed, and would scarcely have allowed me to depart at all.
Almost the whole of the time which I spent here the Sheikh left me quite to myself, sometimes not quitting his tent for a whole day; but at other times we had some pleasant and instructive conversation. Among other subjects a rather animated discussion arose one day. An Arab, of the name of ‘Abd e’ Rah- man, a near relation of my host, and of a rather presumptuous character, who had come on a visit from A’zawad, was extremely anxious to know the motives which induced me to visit this country, and scarcely doubted that it could be anything else than the de- sire of conquest. In order to show them of what little value the possession of the country would be to the Europeans, I jestingly told them, that our government, being informed that the natives of these tracts fed on sand and clay, had sent me out to dis- cover how this was done, in order to provide, in a similar way, for the poor in our own country. The Arab was naturally greatly surprised at my state- ment. But the Sheikh himself laughed very heartily, and inquired, with an expression of doubt, whether there were poor people among the Christians.
Another evening, when the Sheikh was cheerfully sitting with us round the fire, we had an interesting
1 Ies2
A84 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXVIII.
conversation concerning the worship of idols. In order to overcome the prejudice of his pupils with regard to the greater nobility and superiority of the Arab race, and to show them that their forefathers had not been inuch better than many of the idolatrous nations at the present day, he gave them an account of the superstitions of the ancient Arabs, and in the course of his conversation exhibited unmistakable proofs of an enlightened and elevated mind, of which the letter, which I shall communicate in another place, will give further proof.
Occasionally we received here also some interesting visits from Arabs or other people; the most con- spicuous person among them being a°man of the name of Fifi, the inspector of the harbour of Yéwaru, a man of cheerful temperament, and a great friend of the Sheikh’s. He had a perfect knowledge of the course of the river between Timbuktu and Jafarabe, the groups of islands forming the boundary between the Mohammedan kingdom of Masina and the Pagan kingdom of Bambara, and very important for the trade along the river, as the boats coming from Tim- buktu must here discharge their merchandise, which has to be conveyed hence to Sansandi on the backs of asses; but unfortunately my informant spoke nothing but Songhay. The state of retirement in which I was obliged to live deprived me of the opportunity of cultivating the language of the natives; which was moreover extremely repulsive to me on account of its deficiency in forms and words, so that I found it next
Cuar. LXVIU. PRIVATE LIFE IN CAMP. 485
to impossible to express in it any general idea, without having recourse to some cther foreign language. The Songhay of this region, having been deprived of all their former independent character more than two centuries and a half ago, and having become degraded and subject to foreigners, have lost also the national spirit of their idiom, which, stead of developing it- self, has become gradually poorer and more limited ; but I have no doubt that the dialect spoken by those still independent people in Dargol and Kulman is far richer, and anybody who wishes to study the Songhay language must study it there. The Arab visitors* to the town at this period were especially numerous, this being the most favourable season forthe salt trade. A few months later scarcely a single Arab from abroad frequents the town.
The private life of the people in these encamp- ments runs on very tranquilly, when there is no pre- datory incursion, which however is often enough the case. Most of these mixed Arabs have only one wife at a time, and they seem to lead a quiet domestic life, very like that of the Sheikh himself. I scarcely imagine that there is in Europe a person more sin- cerely attached to his wife and children than my host was. In fact, it might be said that he was a little too dependent on the will of his wife. The difference which I found between the position of
* I must here testify to the accuracy with which Mr. Raffenel, in the plates illustrating his two journeys in Negroland, has re- presented the character of these Western Arabs or Moors.
I13
A486 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXVIII.
the wife among these Moorish tribes, and that which she enjoys among the Tawarek, 1s extraordinary, al- though even the Tawarek have generally but one wife ; but while the latter is allowed to move about at her pleasure quite unveiled, the wife even of the poorest Arab or Moor is never seen unveiled, being gene- rally clad in a black under and upper gown, and the wives of the richer and nobler people never leave their tents. The camp life of course would give to co- quettish women a fair opportunity of intrigue; but in general I think their morals are pretty chaste, and the chastisement which awaits any transgression is severe, a married wife convicted of adultery being sure to be stoned. An incident happened during my present stay at the tents which gave proof of love affairs not being quite unusual here,—a Tarki, or rather A’mghi, having been murdered from motives of jealousy, and brought into our camp. But I must confess that I can scarcely speak of the mode of life in an Arab or Moorish encampment; for the camp of the Sheikh, as a chief of religion, is of course quite an exception; and moreover the neighbourhood of the Fulbe or Fullan, who, in their austere religious creed, view all amusements with a suspicious eye, has en- tirely changed the character of these Moorish camps around the town, and it may be in consequence of this influence that there was no dancing or singing here.
Notwithstanding trifling incidents like these, which tended occasionally to alleviate the tediousness of our
Cuap. LXVIII. TEDIOUSNESS OF POSITION. 487
stay, I was deeply afflicted by the immense delay and loss of time, and did not allow an opportunity to pass by of urging my protector to hasten our depar- ture; and he promised me that, as I was not looking for property, he should not keep melong. But, never- theless, his slow and deliberate character could not be overcome, and it was not until the arrival of another messenger from Hamda-Alléhi, with a fresh order to the Sheikh to deliver me into his hands, that he was induced to return into the town.
My situation in this turbulent place now ap- proached a serious crisis ; but, through the care which my friends took of me, I was not allowed to become fully aware of the danger I was in. The Sheikh himself was greatly excited, but came to no decision with regard to the measures to be taken; and at times he did not see any safety for me except by my taking refuge with the Tawarek, and placing myself entirely under their protection. But as for myself I remained quiet, although my spirits were far from being buoyant ; especially as, during this time, I suf- fered severely from rheumatism; and I had become so tired of this stay outside in the tents, where I was not able to write, that, when the Sheikh went out again in the evening of the 16th, I begged him to let me remain where I was. Being anxious about my safety, he re- turned the following evening. However, on the 22nd, I was obliged to accompany him on another visit to the tents, which had now been pitched in a different place, on a bleak sandy eminence, about five miles
11 4
488 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXVIII.
east from the town, but this time he kept his promise of not staying more than twenty-four hours. It was at this encampment that I saw again the last four of my camels, which at length, after innumerable delays, and with immense expense, had been brought from beyond the river, but they were in a miserable condi- tion, and furnished another excuse to my friends for putting off my departure, the animals being scarcely fit to undertake a journey.
489
CHAP. LXIX.
POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY.— DANGEROUS CRISIS.
In the meantime, while I was thus warding off a deci- sive blow from my enemies, the political horizon of these extensive regions became rather more turbulent than usual; and war and feud raged in every quarter. Towards the north the communication with Morocco was quite interrupted, the tribe of the Tajakant, who almost exclusively keep up that communication, being engaged in civil war, which had arisen in this way. A “ Jakani”* called “Abd Allah Weled Mulud, and belonging to that section of their tribe which is called Drawa, had slain a chief of the E’rgebat who had come to sue for peace, and had been killed in his turn by the chief of his own tribe, a respectable and straightforward man of the name of Mohammed El Mukhtar Merabet. ‘Thus, two factions having arisen, one consisting of the U’jarat and the A’hel e’ Sherk, and the other being formed by the Drawa and their allies, a sanguinary war was carried on. But not- withstanding the unfavourable state of this quarter, which is so important for the wellbeing of the town, on account of its intercourse with the north, the Sheikh, who was always anxious to establish peaceable
* That is the singular form of the name Tajakant.
490 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cnar. LXIX.
intercourse, repeatedly told me that although he re- garded the road along the river, under the protection of the Tawarek, as the safest for myself, he should endeavour to open the northern road for future tra- vellers from Merakesh, or Morocco, by way of Tafi- lélet, and that he should make an arrangement to this effect with the A’arib and Tajakant, though there is no doubt that it was the A’arib who killed Mr. Davidson, a few days after he had set out from Wadi Nun in the company of the Tajakant. There was just at the time a man of authority, of the name of Hamed Weled e’ Sid, belonging to this tribe, pre- sent in the town. On one occasion he came to pay me a visit, girt with his long bowie knife. I had however not much confidence in these northern Moors ; and seeing him advance through my court-yard in company with another man, I started up from my couch and met him halfway ; and although he behaved with some discretion, and even wanted to clear his countrymen from the imputation of having murdered the above-mentioned traveller, I thought it more pru- dent to beg him to keep at a respectful distance. Just at this time a large foray was undertaken by
a troop of 400 Awelimmiden against the Hogar, but it
returned almost empty-handed, and with the loss of one of their principal men. ‘Towards the south, the enterprising chief El] Khadir, whom I have mentioned on a former occasion, was pushing strenuously for- ward against his inveterate enemies the Fulbe, or Fullan, although the report which we heard at this
Cuar. LXIX. DANGEROUS SITUATION. 49]
time, of his having taken the town of Hémbori, was not subsequently confirmed. But, on the whole, the fact of this Berber tribe pushing always on into the heart of Negroland, is very remarkable ; and there is no doubt that if a great check had not been given them by the Fulbe, they would have overpowered ere this the greater part of the region north of 13° N. latitude. Great merit, no doubt, is due to the Fulbe, for thus rescuing these regions from the grasp of the Berber tribes of the desert, although as a set-off it must be admitted that they do not understand how to organise a firm and benevolent government, which would give full security to the intercourse of people of different nationalities, instead of destroying the little commerce still existing in these unfortunate regions, by forcing upon the natives their own religious pre- judices.
The danger of my situation increased when, on the 17th November, some more messengers from the prince of Hamda-Allahi arrived in order to raise the zeka*, and at the same time we received authentic information that the Fulbe had made an attempt to instigate A’wab, the chief of the Tademékket, upon whom I chiefly relied for my security, to betray me into their hands. News also arrived that the Welad Sliman, that section of the Berabish to which belongs especially the chief Hamed Weled ‘Abéda, who killed Major Laing, had bound themselves by an oath to put me to death. But my situation became still more
* Of the amount of the zeka, I shall speak in another chapter.
492 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIX.
critical towards the close of the month, when, having once more left the town for the tents, we received in7 formation that a fresh party had arrived from the capital with the strictest orders to take me dead or alive. Being therefore afraid that my people, whom I had left in the town, ‘frightened by the danger, might be induced to send my luggage out of the house where I was lodged, I sent in the course of the night the servant whom I had with me at the time, with strict orders not to move anything; but, before he reached the town, my other people had sent away my two large boxes to Taleb el Wafi, the storekeeper of the Sheikh. But fortunately I did not sustain any loss from this proceeding, nothing being missing from these boxes, notwithstanding they had been left quite open.
Thursday, Having passed a rather anxious night,
Dec. Is. with my pistols in my girdle, and ready
for any emergency, I was glad when, in the morn- ing, I saw my boy return accompanied by Mo- hammed el ‘Aish. But I learned that the people of the town were in a state of great excitement, and that there was no doubt but an attack would be made upon my house the next morning. Thus much I made out myself; but, having no idea of the imminence of the danger, in the course of the day I sent away my only servant with my two horses, for the purpose of being watered. But my Tawati friend seemed to be better informed, and taking his post on the rising ground of the sandy downs, on
Cuap. LXIX. APPROACH OF A HOST. 493
the slope of which we were encamped, kept an anxious look out towards the town. About dhohor, or two o’clock in the afternoon, he gave notice of the approach of horsemen in the distance, and while I went into my tent to look after my effects, Mohammed el Khalil rushed in suddenly, crying out to me to arm myself. Upon this I seized all the arms I had, consisting of a double-barrelled gun, three pistols, and a sword; and I had scarcely come out when I met the Sheikh himself with the small six-barrelled pistol which I had given him in his hand. Handing one of my large pistols to Mohammed ben Mukhtar, a young man of considerable energy, and one of the chief followers of the Sheikh, I knelt down and pointed my gun at the foremost of the horsemen who, to the number of thirteen, were approaching. Having been brought to a stand by our threatening to fire if they came nearer, their officer stepped forward crying out that he had a letter to deliver to the Sheikh; but the latter forbade him to come near, saying that he would only re- ceive the letter in the town, and not in the desert. The horsemen, finding that I was ready to shoot down the first two or three who should approach me, consulted with each other and then slowly fell back, relieving us from our anxious situation. But, though reassured of my own safety, I had my fears as to my servant and my two horses, and was greatly delighted when I saw them safely return from the water. How- ever, our position soon became more secure in conse- quence of the arrival of Sidi A’lawate, accompanied
494 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIX.
by a troop of armed men, amongst whom there were some musketeers. It now remained to be decided what course we should pursue, and there was great indeci- sion, A’lawate wanting to remain himself with me at the tents, while the Sheikh returned to the town.
But besides my dislike to stay any longer at the encampment, I had too little confidence in the younger brother of the Sheikh to trust my life in his hands, and I was therefore extremely delighted to find that El Bakay himself, and Mohammed el ‘Aish, thought 1t best for me to return into the town. At the moment when we mounted our horses, a troop of Kél- hekikan, although not always desirable companions, mounted on mehara, became visible in the distance, so that in their company we re-entered Timbuktu, not only with full security, but with great éclat, and with- out a single person daring to oppose our entrance ; though Hammadi, the Sheikh’s rival, was just about to collect his followers in order to come himself and fight us at the tents. Frustrated in this plan, he came to my protector in his “ msid,” or place of prayer in front of his house, and had a serious conversation with him, while the followers of the latter armed themselves in order to anticipate any treachery or evil design, of which they were greatly afraid. But the interview passed off quietly, and, keeping strict watch on the terrace of our house, we passed the ensuing night without further disturbance.
This happened on the Ist of December; and the following morning, in conformity with the Sheikh’s
Cuar. LXIX. LETTER FROM HAMDA-ALLA/HI. 495
protest, that he would receive the emir of Hamda- Allahi’s letter only in Timbuktu, the messenger arrived ; but the latter being a man of ignoble birth called Mohammed ben Said, the character of the mes- senger irritated my host almost more even than the tenor of the letter, which ordered him to give me and my property up into the hands of his (the emir’s) people. After having given vent to his anger, he sent for me, and handed me the letter, together with another which had been addressed to the emir Kauri, and the whole community of the town, Whites as well as Blacks (el bedhan ut e’ sudan), threatening them with condign punishment, if they should not capture me, or watch me in such a manner that I could not escape.
The serious character which affairs had assumed, and the entire revolution which my own personal busi- ness caused in the daily life of the community, were naturally very distressing to me, and nothing could be more against my wish than to irritate the fanatical and not powerless ruler of Hamda-Allahi. It had been my most anxious desire from the beginning, to obtain the goodwill of this chief by sending him a present, but my friends here had frustrated my de- sign; and even if in the beginning it had been pos- sible, a supposition which is more than doubtful, considering the whole character of the Fulbe of Hamda-Alléhi, it was now too late, as Séko A’hmedu had become my inveterate enemy, and I could only cling with the greater tenacity to the only trustworthy
496 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIX..
protector whom I had here, the Sheikh El Bakay. In acknowledgment therefore of his straightforward conduct, I sent him, as soon as [ had again taken quiet possession of my quarters, some presents to distribute among the Tawdarek, besides giving the head man of the latter a small extra gift, and some powder and Hausa cloth to distribute among our friends. However, my situation remained very pre- carious. As if a serious combat was about to ensue, all the inhabitants tried their firearms, and there was a great deal of firing in the whole town, while the Morocco merchants, with “Abd e’ Salam at their head, endeavoured to lessen the Sheikh’s regard for me, by informing him that not even in their country (Morocco) were the Christians treated with so much regard, not only their luggage but even their dress being there searched on entering the country. But the Sheikh was not to be talked over in this manner, and adhered to me without wavering for a moment. He then sat down and wrote a spirited and circum- stantial letter to Séko A’hmedu, wherein he reproached him with attempting to take out of his hands by force a man better versed in subjects of religion than he, the emir himself, who had come from a far distant country to pay him his respects, and who was his guest.
The following day, while I was in the company of the Sheikh, the emir Kauri and the kadhi San-shirfu, together with several other principal personages, called upon him, when I paid my compliments to
nap. LXIX. INTERVIEW WITH A’WAB. 497
them all, and found that the latter especially was a very respectable man. My friend had provided for any emergency, having sent to the Tademékket, re- questing them urgently to come to his assistance ; and, in the evening of the 6th of December, A’wab, the chief of the Tin-ger-égedesh, arrived with fifty horse, and was lodged by El Bakay in the neighbourhood of our quarters.
The next morning the Sheikh sent for me to pay my compliments to this chief. I found him a very stately person of a proud commanding bearing, clad in a jellaba tobe, striped red and white, and orna- mented with green silk, his head adorned with a high red cap, an article of dress which is very rarely seen here, either among the Tawarek or even the Arabs. Having saluted him, I explained to him the reason of my coming, and for what purpose I - sought imana; and when he raised an objection on account of my creed, because I did not acknowledge Mohammed as a prophet, I succeeded in warding off his attack, by telling him that they themselves did not acknowledge Mohammed as the only prophet, but likewise acknowledged Musa, “Aisa, and many others ; and that, in reality, they seemed to acknowledge in a certain degree the superiority of “Aisa, by supposing that he was to return at the end of the world; and that thus, while we had a different prophet, but adored and worshipped one and the same God, and, leaving out of the question a few divergencies in point of diet and morals, followed the same religious principles
VOL. IV. KK
498 ~ TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cap. LXIX.
as they themselves did, it seemed to me that we were nearer to each other than he thought, and might well be friends, offering to each other those advantages which each of us commanded.
We then came to speak about their history. I told him that I had visited their old dwelling-places in Air, Tiggeda, and Taédmekka; but he was totally unaware of the fanciful derivation which the Arab authors have given to the latter name, viz. “ likeness of Mekka,” * which probably never belonged to one town in particular, but has always been the name of a tribe. He felt, however, very much flattered by this piece of information, and seemed extremely delighted, when I told him how old the Isl4m was in his tribe. My little knowledge of these historical and religious matters was of invaluable service to me, and particularly in this instance, for obtaining the esteem of the natives and for overcoming their pre- judices; for while this chief himself scarcely under- stood a single word of Arabic, so that I could only speak with him in very broken Temashight or Tar- kiye, his brother, El Khattaf, was well versed in that language, and spoke it fluently.
Having left the people to converse among them- selves, I returned to the Sheikh in the afternoon, taking with me a present for A’wab, consisting of a chequered tobe (such as I have described on a for-
* El Bekri, ed. de Slane, p.181. 4&2. bud wr Uses See Cooley, “ Negroland of the Arabs,” p. 30, n. 52.
Cuar. LXIX. PRESENTS TO A’/WAB. 499
mer occasion™, and which are great favourites with these people), two turkedi, and two black tesilgemist, or shawls, besides another shawl and a handkerchief for his messenger, or mallem, who is the confidential factotum of every Tarki chief. He was as thankful as these barbarians can be, but wished to see some- thing marvellous, as characteristic of the industry of our country; but I begged him to have patience, till, on some future occasion, some other person belonging to our nation should come to pay him a visit.
While I was staying there, a Pullo chief arrived from Gundam with two companions, and reproached the Sheikh in my presence for having shown so much regard for an unbeliever, whose effects at least ought to have been delivered up to the chief of Hamda-Allahi: but I imposed silence upon him, by showing him how little he himself knew of religious matters in calling me an unbeliever; and telling him, thatif he had really any knowledge of, and faith in, his creed, his first duty was to try to convert those of his own countrymen who were still idolaters. At the same time I told the Tarki chief A’wab, that it seemed to me as if they were afraid of the IFulbe, or else they would certainly not allow them to molest tra- vellers who visited this place with friendly inten- tions, while they could not even protect the natives.
* See Vol. II. p. 129.
Kik @
500 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIX.
In reply he alleged that they were by no means afraid of them, having vanquished them on a former occasion, but that they only awaited the arrival of their inercle to show them that they were the real masters of Timbuktu.
To add to the conflict of these opposing interests, ‘a great number of strangers were at this time col- lected in the town, most of whom were of a far more fanatical disposition than the inhabitants themselves, who, on the whole, are very good-natured. The Berabish alone, who had come into the town with about one thousand camels carrying their salt, mus- tered one hundred and twenty horse, prepared, no doubt, to fight the Fullan, if the latter should attempt to levy the “ashur,” or the tithe, but still more hos- tilely disposed towards the Christian stranger who had intruded upon this remote corner, one of the most respected seats of the Mohammedan faith, and against whom they had a personal reason of hostility, as they were commanded by ‘Ali, the son of Hamed Weled ‘Abéda, the acknowledged murderer of Major Laing; and, of course, the news of my residence in the town, and of the hostile disposition of the Fiulbe, who had now been two months attempting in vain to drive me out of it, had spread far and wide.
This great influx of strangers into the town raised the price of all sorts of provisions, particularly that of Negro corn and rice, in a remarkable degree, the latter rising from 6000 to 7500 shells the “ suntye,” while the former, which a few days before had been
Cuar. LXIX. LETTER AND NEWS FROM EUROPE. 5OL
sold for 8750, equal at that time to one and a half “ras” of salt, rose to the exorbitant price of 6000 shells.
In the evening of the 7th, a slave suddenly arrived with the news that a letter had reached my address from the north. He was followed a short time after- wards by Mohammed el ‘Aish, who brought me the parcel, in question, which, however, had been opened. The letter was from Mr. Charles Dickson, Her Majesty’s Vice-Consul in Ghaddames, dated June 18th, and enclosing, besides some recommendations to native merchants, a number of “ Galignani,” which informed me of the first movements of the Russians on the Danube. The Ghaddmstye people, who were the bearers of the letter, had already spread the news of a dreadful battle having been fought between the Turks and the Russians, in which 30,000 of the latter had been slain, and 40,000 made prisoners.
The following day A’wab, who himself had arrived with fifty horsemen, was joined by his cousin Fan- daghumme with fifty more. This was very fortunate, for, about dhohor, the Fulbe held a conference, or “kéndegay,” in the Géngeré-bér, or Jama el Kebira, where Hamed Weled Faamme, the malignant and hostile kadhi, made a violent speech before the as- sembly, exhorting the people to go immediately and carry out the order of their liege lord the Sheikho A’hmedu, even if they were to fight con- jointly against El Bakay, A’wab, and the emir
ae os
502 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap, LXIK:
Kati, whom he represented as disobedient, and al- most rebellious to his liege lord. A friend of the latter, who knew the cowardly disposition of the speaker, then rose in the assembly, and exhorted the kddhi to lead the van, and proceed to the attack, when every one would follow him. But the kadhi not choosing to expose his own person to danger nothing was done, and the assembly separated, every one going quietly to his home.
Meanwhile the two ‘Tawarek chiefs, with their prin- cipal men, were assembled in the house of the Sheikh, where I went to meet them, but found them not quite satisfied with the part which they were acting. They entered into a warm dispute with me upon the subject of religion, but soon found themselves so perplexed, that they left it to the Sheikh to answer all my objections. A Protestant Christian may easily de- fend his creed against these children of the desert, as long as they have not recourse to arms.
Next morning we left the narrow lanes of Tim- buktu, and entered upon the open sandy desert, accom- panied by the two Tawarek chiefs, each of whom had fifteen companions. The tents being now further removed from the town, near the border of the inun- dations of the river, the camping ground was pleasant, and well adorned with trees; and having taken my own tent with me, where I could stretch myself out without being infested by the vermin which swarm in the native carpets, I enjoyed the open encampment extremely. Leathern tents had been pitched for the
Coap. LXIX. THE TAWA’REK.—AN EMBASSY. 503
Tawarek, who in a short time made themselves quite at home, and were in high spirits. They became very much interested in a map of Africa which [| showed to them, with the adjoining shores of Arabia, and they paid a compliment to their prophet by kissing the site of Mekka.
Being thus on good terms with my barbaric veiled friends the Molathemtin, I enjoyed extremely, the following morning, the half-desert scenery, enlivened as it was by horses, camels, cattle, and interesting groups of men; but about noon a serious alarm arose, a great many horses being seen in the distance, and the number being exaggerated by some people to as many as two hundred. In consequence, we saddled our horses with great speed, and I mounted with my servants, while the Tawarek also kept their animals in readiness; but the advancing host appeared rather of a peaceable character, consisting of about twenty-five of the most respectable inhabitants of the town, with Mulay “Abd e’ Salam and Fasidi, the latter a very noble old man, at their head. They came, however, on a very important errand, based on the direct order as promulgated by the emir of Hamda-Allahi, and addressed to the whole community, being in hopes that, through their personal authority, they might obtain from my host, in a friendly manner, what he had denied to the display of force. They had two requests, both aimed against myself: first, that El Bakay should give them a copy of the letter which I was said to have brought with me from Stambul; and
KK 4
504 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Caap. LXIX.
the second, which was more explicit, that I should not return into the town. Now my firman from Stambul was my greatest trouble, for having anxiously requested Her British Majesty’s Government to send such a document after me, I always expected to receive it by some means or other ; but I was not less disappointed in this respect, than in my expectation of receiving a letter of recommendation from Morocco; neverthe- less, as I had some other letters from Mohammedans, the Sheikh promised to comply with the first demand of these people, while he refused to pay any atten- tion to the second. After some unsuccessful nego- tiation, the messengers retraced their steps rather disheartened. |
In order to attach more sincerely to my interest the Tawarek chiefs, who were my only supporters, I gave to Fandaghumme a present equal to the one I had given to A’wab. Next morning there arrived a troop of fugitives who were anxious to put them- selves under the protection of the Sheikh. They belonged to the tribe of the Surk, who, from being the indigenous tribe on that part of the Niger which extends on both sides of the lake Debu, had been degraded, in the course of time, to the condition of serfs, and were threatened by the fanatical Sheikho A’hmedu with being sold into slavery. Of course it is the Sheikh El Bakay’s policy to extend his protec- tion to whatever quarter is threatened by the Fulbe; but, in this case, sympathy with the miserable fate of these poor people led him to interfere.
Cuap. LXIX. RETURN TO THE TOWN. 505
It was near sunset when we mounted in order to return into the town; and on the way I kept up a conversation with A/wab, till the time of the mughreb prayer arrived, when the whole of my friends went to pray on the desert ground, while I myself, remaining on horseback, went a little on one side of the track. My companions afterwards contended that it was from motives of pride and arrogance that I did not humble myself in the dust before the Almighty. I should certainly have liked to kneel down and thank Provi- dence for the remarkable manner in which my life had hitherto been preserved ; but I did not deem it politic to give way to their mode of thinking and worship in any respect; for I should have soon been taken for a Mohammedan, and once in such a false position, there would have been no getting out of it.
We then entered the town amidst the shouts of the people, who, by the appearance of the moon, had just discovered, as is very often the case in these regions, that they had been a day out in their reck- oning, and that the following day was the festival of the Mulid, or the birthday of Mohammed; and I was allowed to take quiet possession of my quarters.
The same evening I had an interesting conversation with the chief A’wab, who paid me a long visit, in company with his mallem, and gave me the first ac- count of the proceedings of that Christian tra- veller Mungo Park (to use his own words), who, about fifty years ago, came down the river in a large boat; describing the manner in which he had
506 . TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIX.
been first attacked by the Tawarek below Kabara, where he had lost some time in endeavouring to open a communication with the natives, while the Tin-ger-égedesh forwarded the news of his. arrival, without delay, to the Igwadaren, who, having col- lected their canoes, attacked him, first near Bamba, and then again at the narrow passage of Tdsaye%*, though all in vain; till at length, the boat of that intrepid traveller having stuck fast at Ensymmo (pro- bably identical with Ansdéngo), the Tawarek of that neighbourhood made another fierce and more suc- cessful attack, causing him an immense deal of trouble, and killing, as A’wab asserted, two of his Christian companions. He also gave me a full account of the iron hook with which the boat was provided against hippopotami and hostile canoes; and his statement altogether proved what an immense excitement the mysterious appearance of this European traveller, in his solitary boat, had caused among all the surround- ing tribes.
This chief being very anxious to obtain some silver, I thought it best, in order to convince all the people that I had no dollars left (although I had saved about twenty for my journey to Hausa), to give him my silver knife and fork, besides some large silver rings which I had by.me; and he was very glad to have
* The Tawadrek must have attacked Park either far above or below this narrow passage, where, as I afterwards found, the current is very strong; and, as I shall relate further on, he seems to have passed quietly by Tin-sherifen.
Cuar. LXIX. LETTER OF FRANCHISE. 507
obtained a sufficient quantity of this much-esteemed metal for adorning his beloved wife.
These Tawarek chiefs who had thus become well disposed towards me, through the interference of the Sheikh, wrote an excellent letter of franchise for any Englishman visiting this country, thus holding out the first glimmer of hope of a peace- able intercourse. But my own experience leaves no room for doubt that these chiefs are not strong enough of themselves to defend a Christian against the attacks of the I'ulbe in the upper course of the river above Timbuktu, besides the fact that A’wab is too nearly connected with the latter to be entirely trusted. It was on this account that my host esteemed his cousin Fandaghtimme much higher, and placed greater reliance on him, although the actual chieftainship rested with A’wab. All this business, however, together with the writing of the letter to the chief of Hamda-Allahi, which was re- jected in several forms, and caused a great many representations from the chief men of the town, proved extremely tedious to me. My health, too, at that time was in a very indifferent condition, and _I suffered repeatedly from attacks of fever. In a sanitary point of view, Timbuktu can in no wise be reckoned among the more favoured places of these regions. Both Sansandi and Ségo are considered more healthy. But, notwithstanding my sickly state, I had sufficient strength left to finish several letters, which, together with a map of the western part of
508 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIX.
3
the desert, I intended sending home by the first opportunity.
As the waters increased more and more, and began
to cover all the lowlands, I should have liked very much to rove about along those many backwaters which are formed by the river, in order to witness the interesting period of the rice harvest, which was going on just at this time. It was collected in small canoes, only the spikes of the upper part of the stalks emerging from the water. But new rice was not brought into the town till the beginning of January, and then only in small quantities, the saa being sold for 100 shells. This was an important day: important to the Mohammedans as the ‘Aid e’ subuwa, and celebrated by them with prayers and séddega, or alms; and not unimportant for myself, for my re- lation to the town’s-people had meanwhile assumed a more serious character. Sheikho (Séko) A’hmedu had threatened, that if the inhabitants of Timbuktu did not assist in driving me out of the town, he would cut off the supply of corn. This induced the emir Kauri to undertake a journey to the capital, in order to prevent the malicious intrigues of the kadhi Weled Faamme, who was about to embark for that place, from making matters worse.
I have stated before, that, together with the cara- van of the Berabish (the plural of Berbashi), which had arrived on the 12th with a considerable armed host, “Ali, the son of the old sheikh A’hmed, or Hamed.
December 19th,
Caar. LXIX. DEATH OF ‘ALI’ WELED ‘ABE’DA. 509
Weled ‘Abéda, had come to Timbuktu; and, seeing that I was a great friend of the Sheikh El Bakay, he had not come to pay his compliments to the latter, but had pitched his camp outside the town, and his people manifested their hostility towards me on several occasions. but, by a most providential dispensation, on the seventeenth the chief fell suddenly Sick, and in the morning of the nineteenth he died. His death made an extraordinary impression upon the people, as it was a well-known fact that it was his father who had killed the former Christian who had visited this place; and the more so, as it was generally believed that [ was Major Laing’s son.
It was the more important, as the report had been generally spread that, as I have observed before, the Welad Sliman, the principal and most noble sec- tion of the Berabish, had sworn to kill me; and the people could not but think that there was some supernatural connection between the death of this man, at this place and at this period, and the mur- derous deed perpetrated by his father: and, on the whole, I cannot but think that this event exercised a salutary influence upon my final safety. The fol- lowers of the chief of the Berabish were so fright- ened by this tragical event that they came in great procession to the Sheikh El Bakay, to beg his pardon for their neglect, and to obtain his blessing; nay, the old man himself, a short time afterwards, sent word, that he would in no way interfere with my de- parture, but wished nothing better than that I might
510 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Crap. LXIX.
reach home in safety. The excitement of the people on account of my stay here thus settled down a little, and the party of the Fulbe seemed quietly to await the result produced by the answer which the Sheikh had forwarded to Hamda-Allahi.
On the 21st December we again went in the after- noon to“the tents. For the first time since my arrival in this town, I rode my own stately charger, which, having remained so many months in the stable, feed- ing upon the nutritive grass of the byrgu, had so completely recruited his strength that in my despe- rately weak state I was scarcely able to manage him. The desert presented a highly interesting spectacle. A considerable stream, formed by the river, poured its waters with great force into the valleys and de- pressions of this sandy region, and gave an appearance of truth to the fabulous statement* of thirty-six rivers flowing through this tract. After a few hours’ repose, | was able to keep up a long conversation with the Sheikh in the evening, about Paradise and the divine character of the Kurdan. ‘This time our stay at the tents afforded more opportunity than usual for interesting conversation, and bore alto- gether a more religious character, my protector being anxious to convince his friends and followers of the depth of the faith of the Christians; and I really lamented that circumstances did not allow me to enter so freely into the details of the creed of these people,
* See one of these native reports in Duncan’s account of his exploration in Dahome. Journal Geog. Soc. vol. xvi. p. 157.
Cuarp. LXIX. CHANTING IN THE DESERT. 51l
and to make myself acquainted with all its charac- teristics, as I should have liked.
Part of the day the Sheikh read and recited to his pupils chapters from the hadith of Bokhari, while his young son repeated his lesson aloud from the Kuran, and in the evening several surat, or chapters, of the holy book were beautifully chanted by the ptpils, till a late hour of the night. There was nothing more charming to me than to hear these beautiful verses chanted by sonorous voices in this open desert coun- try, round the evening fire, with nothing to disturb the sound, which softly reverberated from the slope of the sandy downs opposite. A Christian must have been a witness to such scenes in order to treat with justice the Mohammedans and their creed. Let us not forget that, but for the worship of images and the quarrels about the most absurdly superstitious no- tions which distracted the Christian Church during the seventh century, there would have been no possibility of the establishment of a new creed based on the principles of Monotheism, and opposed in open hos- tility to Christianity. Let us also take into account that the most disgusting feature attaching to the morals of Mohammedans has been introduced by the Mongolish tribes from Central Asia, and excited the most unqualified horror in the founder of the religion.
Peace and security seemed to prevail in this little encampment. In general the whole of this region to the north of the river is entirely free from beasts of prey, with the exception of jackals; but
51D TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIX.
at present, together with the rising water, which had entirely changed the character of these dis- tricts, a lion had entered this desert tract, and one day killed three goats, and the following one two asses, one of which was remarkable for its great strength.
Remaining here a couple of days, on the evening of the 25th we had again a long conversation, which was very characteristic of the different state of mind of the Christian in comparison with that of the Mo- hammedan. While speaking of European institu- tions, I informed my host of the manner in which we were accustomed to insure property by sea as well as on land, including even harvests, nay, even the lives of the people. He appeared greatly astonished, and was scarcely able to believe it; and while he could not deny that it was a good “debbara,” or device, for this world, he could not but think, as a pious Moslim, that such proceedings might endanger the safety of the soul in the next. However, he was delighted to see that Christians took such care for the welfare of the family which they might leave behind; and it was an easy task to prove to him that, as to making profits in any way whatever, his co-religionists, who think any kind of usury un- lawful, were in no way better than the Christians ; for, although the former do not openly take usury, they manage affairs so cleverly that they demand a much higher per centage than any honest Christian would accept. I had a fair opportunity of citing, as an
j f -
Gnas. LXUX: THE INUNDATION. a es
instance, one of those merchants resident in Tim- buktu, to whom I had been recommended by Mr. Dickson, and who had consented to advance me a small loan, under such conditions that he was to receive almost triple the sum which he was to lend. This day was also an important epoch for the inhabitants of the place, the water having entered the wells, which are situated round the southern and south-western part of the town ; and this period, which is said to: occur only about
December 25th.
every third year, obtains the same importance here as the “lélet e’ nuktah” possesses with the inhabitants of Cairo*; viz. the day or night on which the dyke which separates the canal from the river is cut. The whole road from Kabara was now so inundated that it was no longer passable for asses, and small boats very nearly approached the town.
When my host made his appearance on the morn- ing of the 26th, he was not as usual clad in a black tobe, but in a red kaftan, with a white cloth bernts over it. He began speaking most cheerfully about my approaching departure, and had the camels brought before me, which now looked infinitely better than when they were last conveyed from the other bank of the river; but as I had become fully aware of his dilatory character, I did not place much reli- ance upon the hope which he held out to me of soon entering upon my home journey. We had heard of
* Lane’s Modern Egyptians, ed. 1836, vol.ii. p. 255. VOL. IV. Ly i
514 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuar. LXIX.
the messenger whom he had sent to the Awelim- miden, in order to induce the chief of that tribe to come to Timbuktu and to take me under his pro- tection, having reached the settlements of that tribe; but I was aware that the opposite party would do all in their power to prevent the chief from approaching the town, as they were fully conscious that the Sheikh wanted to employ him and his host of warlike people, in order to subdue the Fullan and the faction opposed to his own authority.
Feeling my head much better, and having recruited my strength with a diet of meat and milk, I began to enjoy the rehala life, and, it being a beautiful morning, I took a good walk to an eminence situated at some distance north of my tent, from whence I had a distant view of the landscape. The country presented an intermediate character be- tween the desert and a sort of less favoured pasture ground, stretching out in an undulating surface, with a sandy soil tolerably well clad with middle- sized acacias and with thorny bushes, where the goat finds sufficient material for browsing. The streams of ranning water which, with their silvery threads, enlivened these bare desert tracts, now extended a considerable distance farther inland than had been the case a few days before ; and the whole presented a marvellous and delightful spectacle, which, no doubt, must fill travellers from the north who reach Tim- buktu at such a season with astonishment. Hence, on their return home, they spread the report of
December 27th.
. > .
Cuaed LXIX. STATE OF TRADE. 5AS
those numerous streams which are said to join the river at that remarkable place, while, on the con- trary, these streams issue from the river, and after running inland for a short time, return to join the main trunk, though of course with decreased volume, owing to absorption and evaporation.
All the people of the town who did not belong to any trade or profession, together with the inhabitants of the neighbouring districts, were still busily em- ployed with the rice harvest; and this was a serious affair for my horses, a much smaller quantity of byrgu, that is to say, of that excellent nutritious grass of the Niger, which I have had repeatedly occasion to mention, being brought into the town. Meanwhile the price of the merchandise from the north went on increasing. A piece of kham, or malti (unbleached calico), now sold for 5700 shells (at least on the 26th of January), but in the be- ginning of February it rose to 7200; this fluctuation in the prices constitutes the profit of the merchants, who buy their supplies on the arrival of a caravan and store it up.
The commercial activity of the town had received some further increase, owing to the arrival of another caravan from Tawat, with black Hausa manufactures, tobacco, and dates, so that I was able to lay in a good store of this latter luxury, which is not always to be got here, but which, in the cold season, is not at all to be despised. Besides receiving a hand- some present of dates from my noble Tawati friend
eile
516 TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Cuap. LXIX.
Mohammed el ‘Aish, I bought two measures (neffek)
and a half of the kind called tin-Aser for 4000 shells;
for the “ tin-akér,” the most celebrated species of dates:
from Tawat, were not to be procured at this time.* As for tobacco, I did not care a straw about it, and in this respect I might have been on the very best terms with my fanatical friends, the Fulbe of Hamda-Allahi,
who offer such a determined opposition to smoking upon religious principles. In a commercial respect,
however, tobacco forms a more important article in the trade of Timbuktu than dates, although refined smokers here prefer the tobacco of Wadi-Nuiin to that of Tawdt. But even these had an opportunity of gratifying their inclination at this season, for only two days after the arrival of the Tawati caravan, a small troop of Tajakant traders, with eighty camels, entered the town. The feud which raged between the different sections of this tribe, which, as I stated before, chiefly keeps up the commercial relations of Timbuktu with the north, on the one hand, and the war raging between the whole of this tribe and the E’rgebat on the other, interrupted at this time almost entirely the peaceable intercourse between Timbuktu and the southern region of Morocco.
The arrival of these people enabled me to purchase
* The other: kinds of dates of Tawat are: A’hartin, Tigaze, Tazarzay, Tin-wariggeli, Tedemamet, Boi-Makhlif, Tin-kasseri, Tin-dokan, Tin-nijdel, Tilimsu, Timbozéri, Adikkeli, G6fagts,
Dagegelet-ntir. The district of Adléf is the most famous for its
dates.
—s.-
esata on = rf <
Cuar. LXIX. CLOSE OF THE YEAR. ay we
half a weight of sugar, equal to six pounds and a quarter, with a corresponding quantity of tea (viz. half a pound), for three dollars; for, as I have said before, there had been no sugar previously in the market. Even when there is plenty, neither tea nor sugar can be bought separately. These articles must be bought together. It is remarkable that a similar custom is still prevalent in many parts of Europe, and even in this country.
The arrival of these Tajakant procured me also the luxury of a couple of pomegranates, which had been brought by them from the Gharb, and which gave me an opportunity of expostulating with the Sheikh on the disgraceful circumstance, that such fruits as these are now only procurable from the north, while this country itself might produce them quite as well, and had in reality done so in former times. Even limes are not at present grown here- abouts, and it was only from Jenni that I had ob- tained some days previously a few specimens of this delicious kind of fruit, which grows in such plenty in Kano, and which might be raised in almost any part of this region. Thus closed the year 1853, leaving me in a most unsettled position in this desert place.
pee
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_ = oe
APPR EDDAX-1,
PRESENT CONDITION OF THE PROVINCE OF ZA’NFARA.
THE province of Zdnfara in former times was far more ex- tensive than at present, its ancient capital being situated half a day (hantsi) east from Sansdnne ‘Aisa on the road to Téze, and this is perhaps Birni-n-Zanfara, founded by the powerful chief Babari about a century ago. At that time the province was a powerful kingdom; but at present it is in the most dis- tracted condition, half of the places belonging to it being still under the rule of the Fiilbe, while the other half have revolted successfully, and are strictly allied with the Gdoberawa.
_ Under the rule of the Falbe or Fullan, are the following places : —
Zyrmi, with three governors: one, A’bu Hamid, who has ruled (in 1853) seven, another Tarna, who has ruled fifteen years, and a third one, a younger brother of Tarna, but who has exercised power for thirty years*; Kauri-n-Namdda, at present governed by Mahamiidu, a younger brother of the warlike and far-famed chief Naméda, who has ruled for the last twelve years; Binka, Béka, Géga, Ydankaba, Daba, Banga, Birni-n-Maddera, Modiki, Moriki with Ne-ébbtsuwa, Koré with Makauru, Dunfawa, Dichi, Badaraéwa, Kattru, Kanna, Dan I’sa, Watinaka-n-Féllani (in order to distinguish it from another town of the same name, which is allied with the Géberawa), Yangwoy, Kidwa, Rira, Watni, Jirgdba,
Gabaike, Kangwa, Kadémusé, Yanbikki, Také-adoy, Birni-
* Formerly there was in Zyrmi a powerful governor belonging to the faction of the Gdberawa, called Dan Jéka, who ruled twenty years, when he was murdered by Mammedu (Mohammedu).
Reis 5. ai 1 Bre a" %
022 APPENDIX I. n-Magaji, Birni-n-Toréwa or Marekay, with Dan Korgi, Tuddu Makangeri, Rawiya, Bidaji, Chibiri.
The independent places are the following : —
A’nka, residence of ‘Abdi, the rebel chief of Zanfara (Serki- n-Zanfara); Maffara, residence of Serki-n-Tléta; Gummi, resi- dence of the chief Banydri; Zdéma, residence of “Ali, and close by Gélli; Sabénbirni Déragd, residence of Banag4; Mardadu, residence of Serki-n-Kd4ya; Gdéumaché and Géra close by; Matusgi, residence of Ajia; Gdrbadéi and Kaggara, Munré, Bokira, residence of Serki-n-Bawa; Damri, Sabén- gari, Daffwa Maffara, a district, with the chief place, Raiwa- n-bére; Danké, U‘ya.
In order to arrange these places topographically, I shall first give an itinerary from Kané to Sokoto, by way of Kéuri- n-Naméda : —
Ist day. Rimi-n-Gadé.
2nd. Shaé-néno, a large walled place, having passed Yan-
oada.
3rd. Karkejém or Karkejango, first place of the province
of Katsena, having passed Sabberé.
Ath. Misawa, a large walled town, with a market; short
march.
5th. Y4-mdntem4ki, with a watercourse on its east side,
running south ; having passed U’ngwa Samia.
6th. Sdwi, having passed Y4-misa, Shawdre, and Jigdwa.
7th. Ajja, a walled place of middle size.
8th. Kidwa, very large walled place, formerly the capital
of Zanfara, at present rather thinly inhabited.
9th. Kéuri-n-Namdda, residence of Namdda (brother of
Mahamitdu), with a market held every Monday and Tuesday, and a considerable watercourse on the west side, once a very large and populous place. A short day’s march south, a little west from this place, lies Riydwa (not Rania), and west from it Ban- gundaé, at present said to be the largest place in
10th.
11th. 12th.
13th.
- Ath:
15th.
16th. 17th.
TOWNS OF ZANFARA. 523
Zénfara among those which belong to the faction of the Féllani; to its district or territory belong the smaller places of Alibawaé, Biddji, Kasaréwa, M6- domawa, Faddamawa, Kontambdni, and the set- tlements of the Féllani-n-Dawaki, and the Féllani- n-Také-adoy.
Birni-n-Géga, on the east side of the same water- course.
Kiisara, a small place inhabited by Falbe.
Gwara, large walied place, having crossed a water- course.
Baktra, large walled place, formerly residence of ‘Atiku, the son of Haémedu, till the town was taken by the Géberawa. To the territory of this town belong the places: Sabéngari, Dammeri, Sala, Dogdje.
Bakira from A’nka one long day south, farther than Gandi from Wurn6; Bakiira from Gandi one good day south, passing by Gaumaché. ‘The river forms a large bend west of Baktra, and at the angle lies Ty¥ymba.
Tymba, walled place on the west side of the Gilbi-n- Bakira, at present in the hands of the A’zena. Between Tymba and Baktira lie the towns Birni-n- Dambo and Birni-n-Riydde, and hereabouts are the places Alibana, Biddji, Kasaréwa, Féllani-n-Dawaki, Féilani-n-Také-adoy, Médomawa, Faddamawa, Kon- tambani.
Galadi or Danfa, large place, with a pond of stagnant water.
A place of elephant hunters.
Sdékoto.
I shall now connect Banaga, or rather Sabénbirni Daraga, as it is more properly called, with a few other places, and shall then conclude this Appendix, reserving for Appendix
524 | APPENDIX I.
IT]. an enumeration of the towns and villages situated along the course of the Gilbi-n-Zéma to where it joins the Gilbi- n-Sdékoto.
From Banaga to A’nka is one long day north, just as from Gandi to Wurn6 ; from Banagé toGtimmi three days W.N.W.
Ist day. Adébka, Gari-n-serki-Kiydwa.
2nd. Birni-n-Tyddu, on the south side of the Gilbi-n- Zoma.
3rd. Gimmi, passing by the town of Kaiwa.
From Banaga to Kotorkoshé six moderate days’ march.
Ist. Bini or Béna.
2nd. Mutimji.
3rd. Magami.,
4th. Samri. ; 5th. Chafe.
6th. Kotdérkoshé.
N.B. Besides Bini and Mutiimji, there are in the same quarter, the district enclosed between Banagé, Kott-n-ktra — Kotti-n-ktira being from Banagé two days 8.W., — and GwaAri, the small principalities of Machéri, Bana, Morébbu, and Kumbashi, all residences of petty chiefs, dependent in some degree on the governor of Katsena.
Between Bakféra and Zéma lie Damri, Sabéngari, Sala, Takdre; further on, entering the territory of Zoma, Danga- rinfa, Masu, Matsafa, Gisara, Boékuyum, Solli.
From Sékoto to Zéma, south, three days: —first day, Dan- chadi, the same as from Sdkoto to Wurné; then a long night’s march, reaching in the morning Birni-n-Magaji, distance the same as that from Zékka to Banka; from Magaji to Zéma short march. From Gandé the distance is shorter.
Zéma lies about half way between A’nka and Gimmi, on a river called after it, Gilbi-n-Zéma; but I shall give all the particulars with regard to the towns lying along this valley
TOWNS OF ZA/NFARA. 525
further on in Appendix IV., as this river, which, lower down, is called Giulbi-n-Gindi, unites with the Gdlbi-n-Sdkoto within the boundaries of ICebbi.
I here subjoin a list of the places situated along the water- course, which lower down is called * Gialbi-n-Sékoto,” be- tween Sansinne- Aisa and Dimbisé, but at present almost all of them are destroyed and deserted: first, Toze on the south side; Gawdngasé, where the branch of Marddi and Chéberi joins the greater trunk valley; Alkalawa (written Alka- dhawa), the former capital of Géber, destroyed by the Filbe, Laijinge, both south; Paday, north; Tsamay, north; Tsiche, north; Bore, south; Kakdékia, north; Méarennt, south ; Mardfa, south; Kirdre, north; Shinéka, south; Giydwa, Dimbisé6. The valley, which probably has a very winding course, must therefore approach Giyéwa a little nearer than it has been laid down on the map.
APPENDIX II.
A FEW HISTORICAL FACTS RELATING TO GO’/BER AND ZA’NFARA.
(a.) Princes of Gober.
Sdéba residing in Mag4le, one day west from Chébiri, made war against Gurma and Barba (Bargu), beyond the river Kwara, wherein he discovered a ford.
U’ba Ashé succeeded to Sdba.
Babdari, King of Géber, reigned about fifty years, was intro- duced by the chief men of Zanfara into Birni-n-Zanfara, then a wealthy place, and the centre of an important commerce (1764), which he conquered and destroyed; whereupon he founded Alkalawa, which then became the capital of Gober. This was the origin of the national hatred which exists be- tween the Goéber4wa and Zaénfardwa.
Dangudé, killed by the A’sbenawa.
Bawa, with the surname Maydki, the warrior, on account of his restless and warlike character. During the eight years of his reign he only remained forty days in Alkalawa, waging war the whole time.
Yakoba, a younger brother of Bawa, reigned seven years, was killed by Agoréggi, the ruler of Katsena, which place ap- pears at that time to have reached its highest degree of power.
Biinu reigned seven years, died in Alkalawa.
Yiunfa reigned forty-four years.
Dane or Dan Yiinfa reigned six years, made war against ‘Othmdn the Reformer, son of Fédiye, when he was killed by Bello, son of ‘Othman at the taking of Alkalawa.
HISTORICAL FACTS AND LINE OF DESCENT. 527
Sélehu dan Babéliwé resided in Mazum, reigned two years, till killed by Bello.
Gémki, seven years, slain by Bello.
“Ali, eighteen years, according to others twelve, slain by the Filbe, together with Rauda serki-n-Katsena.
Jibbo Tawuba reigned seven years, according to others three years, residing in Maradi.
Bachiri seven months.
The present King of Géber, generally known under the name of Maydaki, the warrior, on account of his martial dis- position, son of Yakoba, has ruled since 1836.
(b.) A few data with reference to the ruling families in Sokoto and Gando.
Bello built Sdékoto, while ‘Othman was residing in Gand6; from hence the latter went to Sifawa, or Shifawa, thence to Sdékoto, where he resided ten years more.
Rulers of Sokoto.
‘Othmén died 3 Jumad IT. 1817 (4. H. 1233), aged sixty-four years, having resided thirteen years in Gand6 and Sifiwa, and ten in Sdkoto.
Bello, twenty-one years, died 25 Rejeb, 1837 (A. H. 1253), aged fifty-eight years.
‘Atiku, another son of ‘Othman, succeeded him, reigned five
years three months, died in the beginning of 1843.
Aliyu, son of Bello, had reigned ten (lunar) years four
months in April, 1853.
Rulers of Gando.
Abd Alléhi died 1827, Wednesday, A.H. 20 Moharrem, 1245.
Mohammed WaAni died 1836, A. H.4 Ramadhan, 1250.
Khalilu was, A. D. 1853, in the eighteenth year of his reign.
| 528 APPENDIX ILI. '
Children of Fodiye son of Mohammed.
‘Ali, father of Méddibo ‘Alli,
Sheikh ‘Othman, |
‘Abd-Allahi, all born of one mother. Hotihun Méunuma,
Enhatakko, a daughter, |
Mamenaro,
Elf ‘Omaro,
Mamma Jtima, still alive,
Bakdédda,
born of different mothers.
Children of “Othman dan Foédiye.
Mohammed Bisdéda.
Sambo Wuliy.
Bello.
‘Atiku.
Mohammed Bokhari, a very learned man died 1840, A. H. the 23 Haj, 1255, aged fifty-five years three months.
Hassan, father of Khalilu dan Hassan.
Mohammed Hajo.
‘Abd el Kadiri.
Hamed el Rufay,
‘Isa,
‘Ali Jédi, the father of A’bi 7] Hassan, serki-n-yaki; Moéji, an influential chief of the tribe of the Woldbe; and the serki-n-Syllebawa, were the three principal advisers of ‘Othman dan Fédiye, and were the persons who placed his successor, Bello, upon the throne.
} alive still, the former residing in ‘T6zo.
(c.) Fulbe Tribes. Divisions of the Feéllani-n-Sokoto.
Torunk4wa, Tordédde, or Térobe. Torunkéwa Sabiini, thus called, because, when as yet nothing but mallemin, or learned men, they pre-
2
FU'LBE TRIBES OF KEBBI, ETC. 529
pared much soap in order to keep their dress of the purest white.
Wolarbe, in Kebbi
Féllani-n-Konne.
U’da, herdsmen.
Kasardwa, in Zéma.
‘Alebawa, in Zy¥rmi.
‘Aldwa, in Kammané.
Bidazawa, in Dankogi.
Féllani-n-danéji, in Katsena.
Féllani-n- Dellaji, in Kaétsena.
Péllani-n-Bebéji.
Féllani-n-Yandétu.
Gezdwa.
GAtari, Féllani-n-Rima.
Féllani-n-Takabawa.
Jatibe, dengi-n-‘Othman (the family of “Othmén).
Féllani-n-A’ dar.
Manstbin Mohammedani. Balerankoyen. Ranerankoyen. Baréngankoyen, dengi-n- Abd el Kadiri. Tamankoye.
Kugega.
Taénagamawa. Sunsunkoyen. Kofayenkoyen.
Hirlabe.
Chilawa.
Alinkoyen. Alkamunkoyen. Giimborankoyen. Bérotankoyen.
Sékke.
VOL. Iv. MM
530 APPENDIX II.
Mabberankoyen. Sisankoyen. Wewébe. Bororoye. Gurgabe.
The Governors of A’dar.
To the N.E. of Sékoto lies the province of A’dar, with the chief market-place Konni, ruled by four different chiefs or sAraki: — | Serki-n-A’dar Hamidu, belonging to the Tauzamawa, in
A’zaw,a place four days north from Wurno, fortified with a keffi or stockade.
Serki-n-A’dar Mallem, likewise of the Tauzamdwa, in IIléle, five days from Wurno, with keffi; one day from A’zaw.
Serki-n-A’dar Yakoba, also Tauzamawa, in Tawa, six days from Wurno, one from Illéle.
Serki-n-A’dar Sherif, in Tsambo, four days from Wurno, one S.W. from A’zaw.
Giumut SEKHO ‘OTHMANO.
a
AxrdAno l4mido dum essalato burdo _ fukka: Domida yi A’hmedu jenido lesde fukka
Allaho gettaini omdje omojinde neimmo fukka. _Neloimo A’hmedu hinne ktubdo takélle _ fukka. _Annéro makko yokam wéni sseli takeli fukka: _ Annoro hakkillo non annéro gide fukka :
_Annéro yimbe Wild4ya ka Annaba ké fukka :
Nange he léuru he médbgel jenatdédi a } fukka,
Fandaki tissuru jellimm4do fukka.
_ Allého burneri I’brahima takele fukka. _ Bolidel wolwide Muisa der togéfe fukka. - Abékki fukka.
_ Amébda magiki
fukka.
V’sa bosémbido roibo rého
béluki non boyide
APPENDIX
531
Ii.
Sone or SHEIKH ‘OrumAn.
‘Gop, the Lord, he excels all in superi-
ority :
He is greater than you, A’hmed ( Moham- med); His light illumines the whole earth.
I praise the Lord God, who sent his blessing [mercy ?].
He sent A’hmed to all his creatures.
His light shines over all his creatures :
the light of intelligence, as well as that of sight, all-comprising ;
the splendour of the Im4m of the Faith- ful reaches everywhere ;
all the splendour of the Weli [holy men ] and of the prophets :
and when sun and moon unite all that is splendid,
their light does not reach His resplen- dence.
God blessed Abraham among the whole of his creatures.
Moses obtained eloquence among man- kind.
To Jesus was given strength and spirit.
Thou hast obtained a sight of Him (of God); thou hast obtained eloquence and authority.
MM 2
532
All4ho kamsdédi A’damu der togéfe
fukka. Nan stibted{ Ntihu I’brahima woddu
fukka ;
Kuréshe H4shimo der baléje makko fukka.
Woll4he anstibtida hesobbabe Alla fukka.
Toggéfo Alla bedé bébelés hekalfinima :
Togeéfo Alla beddéd bébelés hetammi- hima:
Toggéfo Alla beddé bébelés bebé chappe- nima :
Toggéfo Alla bedé bébelés hedétanima : Kaunay halfenima awesile takele fukka:
Subabe der takélle fi idema gamidema bechuibba :
Libabe der takélle fi gam gainguma beliba.
Ajéjiam ojtidiam gardoimi ddétoma no- némbo :
Gam némbo haj4 mererrétadtim toma.
Gam derje mabe [mada ?] deum turoye dwaijima.
APPENDIX III.
i God has distinguished Adam among all mankind. Thus Noah and Abraham were dis- tinguished in all their dealings ; Kurésh and Hashem in their dwellings.
By God thou hast been distinguished over all God’s creatures.
All the creatures of God, in heaven and on earth, bless thee :
all the creatures of God, in heaven and on earth, praise thee :
all the creatures of God, in heaven and on earth, salute thee: x
all the creatures of God, in heaven and on earth, do homage to thee:
all that is blessed in creation is blessed through thee.
all those who have been distinguished among the creatures, have been dis« tinguished on thy account :
all that has been created, has been cre- ated through thy grace.
On account of thy blessing have I come to thee:
for such a purpose have I addressed thee.
May God hear my prayer through be grace.
D390
APPENDIX IV.
PARTITION OF KEBBL.
KEBBI, ACCORDING TO ITS PARTITION BETWEEN THE EMPIRE OF SOKOTO AND THAT OF GANDO.
Carurua-n-Kebbi, raba-n- Aliyu. That portion of Kebbi which belongs to ‘Aliyu.
JeKAwavUt, Tézo (the residence of Rufiy, a younger brother of Bello), Dankala, Silime, Gandi, Koido, Kalémmi, Birni-n-Gungu, Bubtche, Atigi*, Tiggi, Leléba, Fadistinko, Méra, all along the gulbi-n-Sdkoto, Dunday, B. Gémashé, Sébera (close by the latter), Pundri, Dangddi, B. Gaminda, Bakéale, B. Rawa, Binji, Gammagamma, Lokké4wa or Lu- kuyawa, Bodinga, B. Magebéshi, Jarédi, B. Dandi, Dan- chadi, Wababi, Bado, Féro, Sirgi, Asdre, Gangam, B. Buldi, Shagéri, Gadardre, Bulondki, Kajiji, Jabo, Yabo
* Awtgi and Méra, the principal towns of Kebbi, together with Koido, were destroyed by ‘Aliyu. Adgi was situated N. from Senina, the same distance as from Gawast to Sdkoto, from Ar- gungo E.N.E. eight or ten miles. Opposite Atigi the dallul Gaminda joins the gulbi-n-Kebbi from the N., and along it lie the following places: Birni-n-Gaminda, B. Riwa, Bakale, Alkaliji, Biz- zer, Sakibiyare, B. Buldi, Maza, Baiyawa, Dankal, Bubiche, close to the junction, and about eight or ten miles from Argtingu.
MM 9
534 APPENDIX IV.
(two towns of the name), Sailina, Kalaéngu, Saléhu, Man- déra, Baiwa, Dankal or Daénkala, Gudéli, Dukké, Ban- gawa, Gudim, Réré, Tiggi, Bagura on the N. shore of gulbi- n-Kebbi, Natsini, Kalilladan, Deména (near Atigi), Taiwo-n- séro (W. near Atigi), Bangdwa, Kalang (W. of Sanina), Ma~ tankari, Illéla, Gajaére, Datsi-n- Kura, Gankay (E. from Atgi), B.-n-Chéra, B. Yaréndi, Sassagire, Bonkari, Diddibé, Ganna- jac, Araba, Dardye, Tammuni(E. of Atgi), two towns of the name of Fissena, one of them inhabited by Sylleb4éwa, Gal- lujiul gari-n-Sylleb4wa, Ginnega, Batyje G. Syllebawa, O’ri, Bairé, Kubdédo, Laini, Gerterana (EK. of Dankala), Tuddi- Mankéri, Denke (Syllebéwa,) Girdbshi, Kalambéna (W. of Sékoto), B. Gésseré (Sylleb4wa), Hausdéwa, Dingadi (Sylebéwa), Badéwa, Giambi, Arkilla, B. Wasaké (Toron- kawa), Danajiwa, B. Séfe, Akatuka, Rékindé, Shani, Damba, Riyo Sinsirgd, Bagaraéwa, Baregay, Sangalawa (Syllebawa), Basoyi (or Bajoyi), Bamgi, B.-n-Bodaye, B. Wagérro, Dange, Riidu, Sabadawa, Sesséda, Gdjaraé, Gantamdé, Lambo, Dan- géda, Sdrufé, Kutitturé, B.-n-Ginnegé, Sifawa, Jarédi, Gingdwa, Kimba, Chilgéri, Alkaliji, A’diga, Dandangel, B.-n-Mustiro, Dagdwa, Rumde-maunde (the great slave ham- let), Fak, Déno, Balbuli, Woiké (baki-n-daji: on the border of the wilderness), Zanzémo, B.-n-Sérahé, Danehadi, B.-n- Féro(between Sdkoto and Zéma: mountainous), B.-n-Girgiri, Gajera, Dangoré, Bado, B.-n-Fakku (on the rock), B. Pan- galalla, B. Méza, Yakurtitu (all W. from Sdkoto), Gudah, Labani, Gédembé, Girébshi, Baidi, Gawazé (gari-n-Bon- k4no), B.-n-Mamman Gabdi (W. of Gajire), Léagoébi, Machisi (gari-n-Réba), Innéme, Ajége, B.-n-Gunginge, Kémbama, Gertarana, Suradme, Léka, B.-n-Filfilé, B.-n- K6kilo (now deserted), Lokoko.
I here enumerate the towns and villages along the gulbz-n- Zoma, although only part of them belong to Kebbi. This is a branch which joins the gulbi-n-Sdkoto at the town of Gindi, about eight miles S.E. from and opposite Bunza,
® 3 '
be
TOWNS OF KEBBI: ‘ALI/YU’S DOMINION. 535
and is equal to it in the quantity of water, although the whole valley (or faddama) is said not to be of the same width. Commencing from Baémaga you pass on the S. side of the river the town of Zéma, which has given its name to the river, and is situated half-way between A’nka and Gummi, and three good days §. from Sdkoto — starting from Sdkoto you reach Danchadi, at the same distance as Wurno; thence to Magaji, a long night’s march the same distance as from Zekka to Bunka; from here Zéma, the same distance as Réba from Wurno; then you pass Dan Garinfa, Jaka, Birni-n-Féllelé, B. Kaiwa (on the S. side of the river), B. Tuddt (still in the territory of Zéma), B. Kégali; B. Gummi (S. W. from the river, with a small territory of its own), Ge- lénge, B. Giissuré (in the territory of Gummi), B. Adabka, B. Gairi, Girkau (the first town of Kebbi), Zabga, Dénganém, Birni-n-Kebbe (different from Kebbi). Along the N. side of the river,— again beginning with B. Zéoma: Takédre, Sa- bonbirni, B. Magaji, B. Gaztirra (where “Atiku the prede- cessor of “Aliyu made a foray), Bakkuru, B. Solli, B. Fanda, B. Kunda (belonging to the territory of Gummi) B. Falam- gangu (N. of Gairi); from hence Gindi W. at a short distance. It is impossible to lay down the river from these data with accuracy. Probably not all the towns have been given in their natural order. According to other information, between A’nka and Takdre, which he on the N. bank, there are Birni-n-Tuddii kdrami and Bunkddo, and between Takére and Gaztirra, Dan gartinfa and B. Mazu.
At Birni-n-Zondu, 25 m. from Gindi the mayo-rannéo, or dhannéo (a very general name, also to be recognised in Clapperton’s Maiyarro), or fari-n-riwa, joins the gulbi-n- Sdékoto, and is said to be larger than the G. Zoma.
MM 4
536 APPENDIX IV.
Garurua-n-Kebbi, rdba-n-Khalilu.
Towns of Kebbi belonging to Khalilu, as far as they are in- habited by Hausdwa and Falbe (or Féllani).
The chief places besides Argtingu, the residence of the rebel chief, and the centre of the pagan worship with the holy tree (a tamarind-tree) called “ tunka,” are Gando, Birni- n-Kebbi, Tambawel*, and Jégat; the following list observes a certain topographical order. The direction (W. 8.) refers to Gando.
Madadi, Kochi, Fagha, Magaji-n-kida, MKatiri-n-ladaén, KK. Mammainédi, Mangadi, Géfuru, Margay, Rafi-n-bauna, Kangiwa, B. Bame, Doda-n-gfissuma, Masima, Késgard, B. Bagari, Gumbaye (KE. of Gando), Yeléngu, B. Magu, B. Koldi (W.), Ligi (W.); Géra-n-Dahaiwa (S.), Géra-n- Kuttudi, B. Lalle, Gurzaw, Shimferi, B. Masu, Bagid4, Rafi-n-doréwa (all of them §.); Gerge, Razdy, Chimbilka (between Aliru and Jéga), Gumbi-n-dari (between Aliru and Alélu), Malissa, Dancha (close to it Ddgo-n-daji), Ma- mangéma (all of them S. between Gondu and Gindi); Koriya, Martida, Koséri, Babanidi (E.), Lokerénga, Rigga- n-dawa, Rumbiki, B. Rawa, Kalambaina séfwa (between Gondu and Témbawel, at present deserted), Kalambaina sibwa; Ydle (W., to the E. of Kambasa), B. Yamama (W. of Gondu, close to Kalgo), Kamba gari-n-“Abd e’ Salami, Sambawa, Bakayd (close to Madochi on the river Gindi, E.
* TAambawel, formerly the residence of the learned Bokhari, at present that of his son ‘Om4ro, two days N. from Yuna. Near Tambawel Aliru. Yabo, two days E. of Birni-n-Kebbi, residence of Mohammed Nyello, with the title “ Serki-n-Kebbi.”
+ Jéga, a very important place S.E. from Birni-n-Kebbi, at the same distance as Sdkoto from Wurno; going there from Gando, you pass the night in Aliro, whence the distance to Jéga is the same as that from Wurno to Bamtrna. Jéga is the residence of Miuslemu, a grandson of ‘Abd e’ Salam.
|
TOWNS OF KEBBI: KHALI/LU’S DOMINION. 537
of Birni-n-Gindi), Letséda (near Gondu), Sobaki (between Gondu and Argtiingu), Ambirsa (between Argingu and Zoro), Ditsiel (EK. of Gondu), Dalijam (N.), Dindu (N. on the faddama-n-Argtiingu, Ujdriyé (E. of Ambirsa, between this and Argiingu), B. Késoré (between Argtingu and Zoro), Zoro or Jéggara (W. of Gondu), Kalliul-ladan (EK. of Gulma), Gulma (on the gulbi-n-Kebbi), Kalliul Mamma Yidi, Birni- n-Gatago, B. Madara (close to Gulma), Séwa(N. of Gondu), Zazagawa, Kodkosé (on the border of the territory of “Aliyu and Khalilu, and commanding the ford between Gulma and Argingu—therefore called “serki-n-rfia”), A’damangutta( W. of Sowa), B. Bunga, B. Mornanga (where natron is gathered), Sdaru (E. of Bunza, on the gulbi, with a very white kind of salt); B. Geggi, B. Kika, Tilli, Zogirma, Gotémo, Alu- wasa, Félindé, Ligi (two towns of the name), Kambasa, Am- barsa, B. Tari, Gilumbé, B. Laga, Kardi, Zoro, Hammahi, Dégo-n-daji, Randéli, Fulmungéni, Kermi, Giwa-tazé, Mai- zumma, Kéra, B. Gindi, Kimba, Alélu, Jadadi, Kalgo, Mad- dochi, Rémo, Dammadi, B. Kaya, Bargé, U’mbutt, Girkau, Zabga (close to the frontier of Zéma); back from Kebbi, Kola, Jagguri, Diegi, Mutubari, Banginna, Samau, Maide- hini, Garadi, Raba, Sab6-n-birni, Baséura, Matankari (all these on the faddama-n-Kebbi).
Sections of the Féllani-n-Kebbi:
Njabtangkoyen, Jégadankoyen, Magdjiankoyen, Beyin- koyen, Terébbe, Jarangankoyen, Kalinkoyen, Dikankoyen (the first tribe of the Falbe who immigrated into Kebbi), Médibankoyen, Giindarunkoyen, Térasankoyen, Kamakan- koyen (regarded as the most warlike among these tribes), Gimborunkoyen, Dégelankoyen, Tafarankoyen (from Taféra near Gandi), Tammankoyen, Jennankoyen.
é
538
APPENDIX V.
PART I.
TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF DE/NDINA.
THe Eastern part of the province of Déadina, in a political point of view, is now comprised in the province of Kebbi.
Yélu*, the principal place of Déndina, at present the resi- dence of a rebel chief. See what I have said, p. 250.
Gayaf, on the east side of the river, a most important market- place of Déndina.
* Yélu, one day from Zogirma through forest, one day W. from Bunza, south of the former road, and about 8 m. S. of Kalliul, on the dallul Fogha.
From Yélu to Gaya, one day 8.W., passing through the follow- ing places: — Bamba, a large hamlet, Kahinjanawa, Fatagasu, Riwa-n-kangwa Zagoénji, Pdde-bodéji, a hamlet of Fulbe, or rather Zargabe ; then Birni-n-Gaya.
From Yélu to Yauri, $.S.E., 8 short days.
Fona, formerly a large town, which gave its name to a whole province. Kiusara. Windefada. Bessekittu, a hamlet belonging to the territory of Yauri. Shenga. Sawasi. ‘6ndi. Birni-n- Y4uri.
+ Between Gaya and Kirotashi, another town higher up the
Niger, about 15m. 8. from Say, lie the following places : — Tara,
TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF DE'NDINA. 539
Kalimmadhi (Kalimmorf).
Tara.
Tanda.
Komba, an important place for crossing the river.
Karimamma.
Sandfiné, junction of the eulbi-n-Sdkoto.
Débe.
Kidsara.
Daki-n-gari. three important
Birni-n-Zagha. auctlshing 1
Fonda. former times,
Fingilla.
KKengakoye.
Kamba.
Tiainunga.
B. Koékkoba.
B. Déle.
Baénamakafo.
Chiso.
Bakway.
Matankart.
Kainiki, with a wonderful tree (an idol ?)
B. Sengélu, with salt, close to Sdru.
B. Ginga, with salt.
Bakoshi, with salt, which is boiled here.
Déndené, saltwork, baki-n- gulbi, on the bank of the I’sa.
formerly very im- portant.
Shabe or Sabe, salt.
Kéji
Jakwa all along the gulbi-
Tauro n-Kebbi.
Bendu
Birni-n-Lanne.
Girro.
Zondo.
B.-n-Bida.
JAwaru baki-n-Kw dra.
Aljennare.
B. Kataru, between Kéji and Fona.
Ungwa Mallem, east of Siko.
Koifa, east of Giro.
Shiba, east of Bendu on the Kwara.
Baindi, between the Kwara and the faddama Siru.
B. Zondu, near B. Stiru.
Banimétte.
Lina,
Sdélula baki-n-Fdégha.
B. Riya baki-n- Fégha.
Bandgaga, on the Kwara.
Dade, on the Kwara.
B. Alahinne.
B. Tare, all these on the east side of the Kwara, E. and S.1. of Gaya.
Sanafina, and Bangaga. At Kirotashi, the rafi-n-Zabérma, which skirts the east side of Tamkala, joins the I’sa, or Niger.
540 APPENDIX V.: PART I. |
B. Donubéni (almost deserted).
B. Kangnudwel, between Gaya and Déle.
Nyansama, south of Yélu baki-n-Fégha.
Latakirri, between Bunza and Fégha.
Géza, in the wilderness between Bunza and Fingilla.
Toérmushi baki-n-Fdégha, south of Débe.
Rima baki-n-Fégha.
J dkwa. |
Séllowé, between Bunza and Zogirma.
B. Géde. |
Siri, west of Gdde. |
Gedé, on a mountain in the faddama, between [léde and , Zogirma. |
B. Tarrikora, east of Bakway.
Kébia, south of Tarrikora.
Jariya, north of Kébia.
Bajurd, south of Jariya.
B. I’ssedé, between Bakway and Giro.
Kéla, baki-n-faddama.
Toddul, east of Bakway, 8.E. of Tarrikora.
Hore [Ilére ?], east of Saru, baki-n-faddama.
Kahebéka, north of Stru.
Ballebé6mbori, on the Kwara, half-day east of Gaya.
Karjatame, on the Kwara, $.E. of Ballebémbori.
Dumtinde, once destroyed by the governor of Zoma.
Dodire, on the Kwara, 8.E. of Karjatame.
Sénkoro, west of Zagha.
B. A’ngana.
B. WA4geguru, on an island in the river.
B. Niyaila, on the river.
B. Zaghay, on the river.
Bila, S.E. of Zaghay.
Ubinga.
B. Yégumu, on an island as large as Egga, and accessible by a ford in summer.
TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF DE/NDINA. 541
Gullingére, S.E. of Yogumu.
Dabbéje.
B. Mongéttere, on an island.
B. Soka, between Jékwa and Téro on the river.
B. Kormissa, between Raha and Bunza.
Sémbila.
Kullwa, an island, many Falbe.
B. Gabdilo, on the river.
B. Tuttibard, on the river 8. W. of Dédime.
Kojangu.
Chiwa, in the faddama west of Tutibard.
Jingul, in the faddama.
B. Gerkwa, on the Kwara, $.E. of Daki-n-gari, once the resi- dence of a king of Kebbi, who fled before the king of Zanfara.
B. Kamagéme, south of Zagha.
B. Jagudi, north of Fona.
B. Dania, on the river between Raha and Nyanga.
B. Nania, on the faddama, a rocky eminence with plenty of deléb-palms.
B. Kiria, on the ford where the river is crossed to 1’16é (baki- n-maikétare-n 1/16).
B. Modibdji, on the river.
Killwa, in the Kwara, birddam gungu. Gungu-n-Gdya
(Akétekt), island of Gaya.
. Doréwa, between Gaya and ‘Tara, nearer to the former, on
the river.
. Baléa, on the Kwara, a small and populous town.
. Buldi, between Gaya and Kengakoye.
. Maddochi or Kaéhi, south of Tanunga, on the Kwara,
. Kattika, south of Siko, on a branch of the Kwara, with
plenty of river horses.
. Yday on the Kwara, Féllani-n-J ogadéwa.
. Béhi, at a short distance north of Yégeumu.
. Kérufa, also called Jamde and Munday, on the faddama
of the Kwara.
it se
tye aes
542 APPENDIX V.: PART I.
B. Bokki-bodéhi (bokki meams baobabs), east of Bakway, many Féllani.
B. Ruf&ni, close on the west side of Siru.
B. Gojia, called B. Biriji by the Fulbe, on the west side of the river of Bunza.
B. Foénia, on the same water.
B. Kusége, west of Bdkoshi, between it and Mothiivert south of Bunza.
Dembul, between Jinga and Bunza, west of Kermissa.
Shéma, south of Bunza.
. I’ssafay, south of Bunza, with much agriculture.
. Bokkiré, south of Bunza.
» Dékkishi on a réfi, between Géza and Fingilla.
. Kikadé, at a short distance east of Débe.
. Kariya, east of Kaikad6, south of Zogirma.
. O’wa, on an eminence overhanging a water with croco-
diles, east of Kariya.
. Belaide, south of O’wa.
. Bamba, south of Yélu.
Kahinjanawa, south of Bamba, east of Débe.
Banu, east of Kahinjanawa.
Wauna, between Débe and Gaya.
Déwa, west of Giro.
Babaé-abié, between Bendu and Giro.
Barkéhi or Kalgo, between Téro and Giro, on a ford of the river.
Bilamo, south of Jékwa, between it and Giro.
se) se} ae) [esi as) osl/ es) toe)
Yanderfiidwel, formerly a hamlet, now a town in the fad-
dama. Bolopassi, south of the former, and between it and Giro. Goljillahi, on the Kwara.
‘
oe
DE NDI OR SONGHAY TOWNS AND COLONIES. 543
Towns inhabited, or colonies founded, by Dendi or Songhay on the west side of the river, in the country of Barba or
Burgu.
I’/l6, beyond the I’sa, one day from Bisa.
Gari.
Lol6.
Birni-n-Samiya, a Songhay colony, one day 8.W. of I’lé, on the Géru, a shallow branch joining the Kwara.
Takku, one day south from Sémiya; the inhabitants have vindicated their independence against the Falbe.
Shégun4, at no great distance W.N.W. from Takku.
Derénna, 8. W. of Shéguna.
. Ifinna, south of Derénna.
Stigu, residence of an independent governor.
Udillo.
Gari-n-Danga, Lord of Géndané.
B. Gurris.
YAntala.
B. Taéru.
B. Gésser6.
Laffagd, west of Beréwuay.
. Biutiulé, east of I'l.
. Fittufaittu, west of Bittulé.
Kéchi, west of Fattufattu, imhabited by people called
Koi-jebaba, subjects of the governor of Gaya.
. Genne, on the Kwara, rich in doréwa trees.
. Biri, on the Kwara, east of Genne.
. Bailil, on a rocky eminence on the Kwara.
. Béfoye, west of Tanda, south of the Kwara.
. Somsum, south of the Kwara, which separates it from
Gaya.
. Karma.
Sh hind aie
544
APPENDIX V.: PART I.
I here add the itinerary of the track from Sékoto to Komba on the Niger, which was the common route of travellers a few years ago, and which will show the situation of several places mentioned in this and a former Appendix.
Ist day. T6ézo, open place, having passed the gulbi-n-
2nd. 3rd.
Ath. 5th.
6th. 7th.
8th.
9th.
10th.
11th.
12th.
13th.
14th.
Sékoto.
Katémmi, territory of Khalilu.
Atgi, walled place, skirted on the west side by a watercourse navigable in the rainy season. -
Kanara, in the same valley.
Gulma, at the foot of a large mountain, skirted on the east side by a faddama.
Sawa, rich in corn.
Kaikaydgi, a village skirted on the south side by a faddama.
Kika, birni, with a faddama on the south side.
Daji (wilderness; no town).
Débé, birni.
Yélu, birni, in the valley of Fégha, where salt is found.
Tunga, a hamlet on a faddama, with plenty of rice and fish.
Sénehina, on a fAddama or backwater of the Kwara.
Komba, on the other side of the Kwara, which you here cross. The latter places, beginning with Débé, inhabited by Songhay or Jermabe.
ee ee ee
Or pie ua
YA/URI. — ZABERMA.
PA CCT:
A FEW REMARKS ON THE PROVINCE OF YA’URI, AND ON THOSE OF MA’URI AND ZABE/RMA.
MonHAMMED, the elder brother and predecessor of Jhalilu, granted imana to Dan-Ay, a Nyffawi by birth, who ruled Yauri for thirty years, and was succeeded by Mafori, who governs Yduri at the present time.
The annual tribute which Y4uri pays to Gandé consists of 500 shirts, and from thirty to fifty slaves; while that of Niipe consists of 1000 shirts and 300 slaves.
I will here add a few remarks with regard to Ntipe or Nyffi. The northern frontier of Nipe or Nyffi is Fashi; the eastern border towards GwaAri is Liffe; the southern one, K6ro, towards Yiguchi and Banu. The large town Chardgi, inhabited half by Yorubawa, half by Nyffawa, is two days from Raba by way of Kardkaré. It is the Yorubawa who call the Nipe people, Tapa. The Nyffawa themselves call the Hausawa, Kenchi, and the Falbe, Goy. The Hausdwa call the Nyffawa, as well as some other related tribes, Baibay. The rivulet or faddama called Kontagora separates the terri- tory of the Abéwa or Ebbawa from that of Niipe, while on the other side it borders upon Yauri. On the Kontagéra is the large town Kara, belonging to the Kémbari. The Abéwa live especially on the Manjara, are said to have an idiom of their own, and are armed exclusively with arrows. The people of Ntipe Proper are exclusively cavalry.
Principal towns and villages in the province of YAuri, beginning from DBessekiittu:—Shenga, Kakaté, Dukku, B. Yauri, Gangwo, Sawasi, Tondi, Funtu-n-dichi, Fombo, Sombo, A’rgidé, Shébboné, Rabaké, Bagedé, Moféngi, Lichi, Méchip4, Ngdski, A’guraé, O’baka (large place), Ber- way, Kwéne, Zente, Mojinga, all near to B. Yéuri; Méfilé
VOL. IV. NN
546 APPENDIX V.: PART IL.
(domain of the heir apparent or “dan serki,” half a day E. from Yduri), Wara (a place of embarcation, *‘baki-n-makétare,” on the Kwara), Jatawu, Kawdje, between Yduri and a place called Dandi Féllani; Bokki-jérurfi, Lanne, Sonwuay, Dichi- or Ditsi-n-Mari. Now follow the islands, or “gfingu,” in the river, all of which are inhabited by Kémbari: Shi- shiya, Répiya, Gabailo. The principal towns of the inde- pendent Kambari are: Rejé, Béto, Fantandachi, A/chira, Shébben6, Raba-n-Kaémbari, Ubakka.
I here add the seats of three particular tribes settled in the neighbourhood of Yauri: the Bangi, between Ydauri and Kotérkoshe; the Shengéwa in Jakwa, between Ydauri and Hatisa; and the Dekérkeri settled in Tabé, Ziru, Bangen- jatawa, and in Kagaye.
From BunzA To YAURI.
(a.) Western road. lst day. Tsdru. 2nd. A’llelé, on a river of the same name. 3rd. D4&ji, perhaps the word meaning wilderness; no town. 4th. Gangu (giingu, “ the island” [on the Kwara?]). 5th. Yauri. (b.) Eastern road.
Ist day. Bussukittu, according to this information, a vil- lage of Kebbi; but generally regarded as belonging to the territory of Y4uri.
2nd. Késard, lying on the other side of a rivulet called Gulbi-n-Chiiso; here you sleep, when the river is full of water, the crossing of it occupying a long time; else proceed, and halt in Zéngo-n-dimmia.
3rd. Gangwo. |
Ath. Yauri.
I here give, as I have no other place, a short itinerary from
Yduri to Koté-n-kira, or rather Koté-n-koro.
ist day. Rdgadé4, belonging to the territory of Yuri,
r ; t ‘ 5
YA’/URI. — ZABE/RMA. 5AV
2nd. A hamlet of the Kaémbari. 3rd. Kota-n-koré, a place larger than Zinder, under the dominion of Katsena, with a daily market.
ZABE’/RMA.
The province of Zabérma, or Zérma (Jérma) is bordered towards the south-west by the Niger: towards the south by the province of Déndina and the district of Tamkala; and towards the south-east by the province of Mauri. Its north- ern, or rather north-western, border cannot be well defined with the insufficient knowledge which we possess of that quarter; although thus much is clear, that the district of I’mmanan, which lies between the former and Kidal, the province of the Debbdkal, or the Beni Sékki, is to be sought for in that neighbourhood. It is inhabited by a race of Songhay and Tawarek, but, apparently, of a degraded and mixed character, who give to the country, or at least to the eastern portion of the province, the name Chéggazar, which however seems to attach to one locality in particular; the people of this tract appear to have a chief of their own named Hatta. The country, with the exception of one or two open places, appears scarcely to have any centres of a settled population; and the chief interest attaching to it seems to be the broad valley, rich in natron, which intersects the pro- vince. (See Itineraries in the note.*) The trees most
* 1,—Itinerary from Atgi, along a winding track, by way of Méuri and Zabérma, to Tamkala.
Ist day. Kékoshé.
2nd. Dambugél, belonging to the territory of Mauri or A’rewa.
3rd. Dammana.
Ath. Kardkard4, at the western frontier of A’rew4.
oth. Fergéza, village of elephant-hunters, the first place (mafari) of Zabérma.
6th. Tembekire.
7th. Déso, open capital of Zabérma; residence of Daétd, son of Hammam Bakara, during the period of my journey independent. Beside him, there seems to be another
NW 2
a) Bes
548 APPENDIX V.: PART IL.
common in the province are the géreba or daim-palm, the akkora, and the g'ad, and the valley is said to be girt by fine tamarind trees. This province is also famous on account of its rich pasture-grounds, and is for this reason frequented also by a good many sections of the Fulbe or Féllani, during some months of the year, if the state of the land is favourable, even the cattle of the Féllani-n-Katsena pasturing in that country.
I here give a list of the sections of the Fualbe or Féllani who usually pasture here.
Féllani-n-Zabérma :
Jelgdbe, Démbubé, Kurmé, Senhinankoye, Médibankoye, Warbe, Fittuga, Nibangankoyen, Kdlasankoyen, J4&borin-
chief in Zabérma, named Hammam Jymma. From here direction S. or S. E. 8th. Yéni, on the eastern side of the broad dallul Béso, or Bosso, which comes from Karfay, and rejoins the Kwara at Kiro- tashi; it is full of natron, but along the border of the valley there are wells of fresh water one fathom in depth. Oth. Tamkala.
2.— Indication of Route from Yéni to Kurfay, in very long marches in a N. W. direction along the natron valley.
Ist station. Téghazar, or Chéggazar, on the west side of the dallul, at several miles’ distance, and evidently E. or N. E.
from Déso. The data furnished by Mohammed el Masini are of the utmost importance, and fully con- firmed. Jérma (Zabérma) on the right, probably S.E., of Téghazar, and extending down to the very border of the river Kwara: Téghazar, on the con- trary, three days’ from the river, through a barren desert full of wild beasts, and the deep stream running at half a day’s distance.
2nd station. I’mmanan, likewise on the western or rather north- western side of the dallul.
ard station. Kurfay.
MOHAMMED MA/SINI’S ACCOUNT. 5A
koyen, Chenbaéngankoyen, Daréankoyen, Farmaké *, Baliyan- koyen, Tikankoyen, Kidurankoyen, Gargdnga.
The Féllani-n-Héusa call all those countrymen of theirs who are scattered over these western districts by the nick- name Menénnata Hausdre (properly, ‘I do not understand Hausa”); proving by such a name, which is an opprobrium to themselves, their own loss of nationality, and that they, although Fulbe, usually address their own people more in Hausa than in their own idiom, the Fulfilde language.
List oF Praces 1n MA’URI orn A’REWA’.
Zormakoye (residence of a special governor), Lokoye (the capital of the province in former times), Giwaye, Da- mana or Dammana, Tiwellije (Séberi), Gombora, Birni-n- Mauri, Bébe (with caverns), Gdlewa, Degéji, Sakari, Baki- n-datsi +, Ldéga.
* Whether the name of this tribe has any connection with the name of the province Fermagha to the W. of Timbuktu, I cannot say. Mr. Cooley suggests to me that it may have some relation to the Mandingo.
{ It is very remarkable, that while this town is mentioned in that excellent little geographical treatise of Mohammed Ben A’h- med Masini, appended to Captain Clapperton’s Second Travels, p- 332, as belonging to the ccuntry or district of Emanoo, none of the other towns of Mauri which I have enumerated are there named, with the exception of Lokoye (Lu-koo-yow), but in their stead four others of which I heard nothing. But those places which then were the most considerable may have been since either greatly reduced, or even destroyed. There can be no doubt that Mohammed’s Emanoo is the district I’mmanan, mentioned by me as lying between Téghazar and Mauri.
550
APRENDTX
INFORMATION WITH REGARD TO THE PROVINCES OF GURMA, MO’SI, AND TOMBO.
THE whole triangle interposed between the Niger towards the north, and the country of the Eastern Mandingoes or Wangarawa towards the south, appears to be inhabited by a single race of people, whose language, although they are divided into several different states and nations, nevertheless appears originally to have been of the same stock. It is very probable, that this race in ancient times occupied the whole upper course of the Niger, and that this tract may have been wrested from them in later times by the Songhay, and the Man- dingoes, especially that section of the latter which is generally called Bambara. These are the Gurma towards the N. E., the Tombo towards the N. W., and between them the Mési, or, as they appear to call themselves, More. Gurma, also, does not appear to be the indigenous name by which those people de- signate themselves, but is, I think, of Songhay origin. The Gurma, on account of the neighbourhood of the centres of the Songhay empire, appear to have lost almost their whole inde- pendence and nationality, the Songhay conquering from them creat part of their territory, and wasting the remainder by continuous predatory expeditions; but the former seem to have recovered part of their strength since the weakening of the power of the Faélbe in these quarters, who followed upon the heels of the Songhay, and who appear to have formed settle- ments all along the great high road from Masina to Hausa, having established themselves firmly in the latter province from very remote times. The strongest among these pagan kingdoms five centuries ago, and even at the present moment,
;
GURMA, MO’SI, AND TOMBO. 551
is that of the Mési, although the country is split into a num- ber of small principalities, almost totally independent of each other, and paying only some slight homage to the ruler of the principality of Wéghodogé. The Mési are called Morba (perhaps originally Mére-bé ; bé being, as Mr. Cooley informs me, a formative of personal nouns in the Mandingo language) by the Bambara; they themselves give peculiar names to the tribes around them, calling the Falbe, Chilmigo; the Songhay, Marénga; the Gurma, Bimba; the WAngara, Tauréarga; the Hausa people, Zangoré; the Asanti or Asianti, Santi. The inhabitants of Gurma call the Hausdwa, Jongoy; but the name of the Félbe they have changed only very slightly, calling them Fuljo in the singular, Fulga in the plural form. The Bambara give to the A’swdnek or Swaninki the name Marka. With regard to the line of Mandingo or WAngara settle- ments, which extend through the whole breadth of this tract along about the tenth meridian of north latitude, I shall say more further on. I will here only remark that Mr. Cooley (“ Negroland of the Arabs,” p. 79) seems to have been right in his supposition respecting the original settlements of that eminent African race.
Besides the nationalities mentioned, there are in the tract described several smaller tribes, the degree of whose affinity it 1s not so easy to determine, especially as the names are more or less corrupted by the traders: Tuks4wa, Gurtnga, Basanga, well known also from other sources, with the chief places Larabu and Tangay, the Susimga, Samgay, Kantanti, Karkardi, Chékoshi, whose chief place situated on an eminence seems to be Gambaga, formerly supposed to be the name of a country; Choksiwa is probably only the Hausa form of Chékoshi.
The Tombo* seem to have been very powerful in former times, extending probably to the very banks of the Niger at Timbiktu, and became known to the Portuguese from the
* The Tombo call the Songhay “ Jennawélam.”
NN 4
Nie. APPENDIX VI.
end of the fifteenth century; but having still, in the latter half of the last century, constituted an important political power, they seem since to have suffered very severely by the continual attacks of the Filbe, who have invaded their territory from two different quarters at the same time, from Masina towards the N. W., and from Gilgdéji towards the N. E., the latter province being entirely wrested from them, so that they have lost all national independence, although they still retain a large territory of about 150 miles in every direction. I will here at once proceed to communicate the little information which I have been able to collect with regard to them, in order then to subjoin a network of routes which will consti- tute a fair framework whereupon to lay down in an ap- proximate manner the topography of Gurma and Mési. The country of the Tombo at present extends from the province of Gilgéji in the N. E., the greater part of the in- habitants of which belong to the same race, and Dwentsa in the N., and from near Konna towards the N. W., to the territory of Benendiigu, or country of the Beni, in the S., and to that of Yadega in the 8. E. From the latter they seem to be sepa- rated by the territory of the Urba and Tindgel, who, however, evidently belong to the same stock. The eastern and western portion of the region thus included is mountainous, the central part more level, and clothed with a rich vegetation of tama- rind and other trees. The chief place of the whole terri- tory is said to be A’rre, situated fifteen days from Gilgéji, and fifteen from Dammajé, a place on the road to Wégho- dogé, nine days from Soféra; and the next in importance are said to be the following towns or villages: — Ninge, one day south from Dwentsa, Bambar, Kaja, Nayamma, Honduk, Dimbili, Kong, Shdle, A’mmalé, Ko6mmogam, Shégo, Kaulu, Yelme, Kul, Tiyaugu, Shanger, Wédibdé, (apparently in- habited, at least partly, by Mandingoes), Kana, Andal, Gimle, Inde, Kawar, Fanjékkara, Kommaige, Tamtdéngo, Mowe, Timmin, Uldl. All these places or towns are said ke of considerable extent, and to have each its own chief.
{ f 4 ; ;
Geo
THE TOMBO. — DUNCAN’S ROUTE. 55
- I now proceed to give the itineraries illustrating the geo- graphy of Gurma and Mési. But I must first say a word about Mr. Dunean’s route from Abéme to Ada-fudia*, or, as he writes, Adda-foodia, which will be found to coincide partly with the region here described by myself. This route of Mr. Duncan will be found in course of time to contain a few gross mistakes, to say the least. It is quite impossible for an African traveller to go over such distances in so short a time as Mr. Duncan did, who one day counts his journey at not less than forty-four miles.f It is not clear from his journal whether the population of the places visited by him be Mandingo or Fulfilde; although it appears to be evi- dent from certain hints which he throws out, that he supposes it to consist of these two elements{, but in reality the more northern part of the route travelled over by him is entirely inhabited by native tribes. Supposing the population of the country thus traversed consisted of Fellata or Fulbe, it seems very unlikely that these people, who are so suspicious, should allow a traveller to hurry on at this rate, without any stop- pages. Moreover, I doubt very much whether in any of the countries hereabout dromedaries and elephants will be found tamed, such as Duncan found in Sogbo; and whether the sugar-cane and the oil-palm grow there. I have not been
* Duncan’s Travels.
7 Vol. ii. p. 82. From Baffo to Zafoora. “I had travelled forty-four miles (in one day), almost without halting.” A still greater rate of travelling occurs p. 145.
t Duncan says (vol. ii. p. 96) that the Niger appears to be known here only by the name Joleeba, not Joliba. Whatever the form, that name is Mandingo: nevertheless, he states the popu- lation expressly to belong to the Fellata (or Fulbe). The latter, from what he says (pp. 109 and 126), seem to hold the dominion of the country; but none of the names which he gives belong to that language. Then the customs do not agree at all with such a state of society, neither the péto (pp. 101, 116, 119), nor the pro- stration (pp. 104, 111, 151, 155, 160, 173).
554 APPENDIX VI.
able to connect any of the towns between Assafiida and Ada- fudia, as laid down by Duncan, with my itineraries, nay, I have not been able to learn the names, or become aware of the existence, of any such places; but this I leave to future travellers, who may have the fortune to visit that quarter.
I now give first an itinerary from Komba on the Niger to Sansénne Mangho, in order to circumscribe the country of Gurma on its south-eastern side, and thence to Selga, the sreat entrepot of the gtro-trade.
A. — Route from Komba to Sansanne Mangho.
Ist day. Korkojéngo gari-n-Abdu Féllani, a Pdllo settle- ment.
2nd. No village.
3rd. Makuru, on a watercourse without a current, numbers of wild beasts.
4th. Dagu, a village, belonging to Gurma, and skirted by a faddama on its west side.
5th. Séfo-n-Daégu “Old Dagu,” at present uninhabited.
6th. Biziggu or Bisigu, large place, residence of chief Yanjo. Between Dégu and Biziggu, one day per- haps is left out; at least, other travellers make three stations between these two towns, the first in Stdo-melle, the next in Zokéga a Gurma village, the third in Mekkéra, another Gurma village.
7th. Tanga, a hamlet, bordered towards the south by a mountain, and skirted on the east side by a water- course running from W. to E.
8th. Majéri, a hamlet, on the north side of a large moun- tain.
I here add another direct road from Komba to Majéri without passing by Biziggu: Ist day. Korkojéngo. 2nd. Féllalé, a mountain, and therefore called Féllalé-
9th
10th. Lith. 12th.
13th.
14th.
15th.
31ZU’GGU. — SANSA’NNE MANGHO. 555
n-ditsi(ditsi meaning mountain in Hausa), with a watercourse.
3rd. Small watercourse, with water occasionally.
Ath. Dagu, a village of Gurma.
5th. Stdo-melle, a large market-place of Gurma, pro- bably a settlement of the Wangara, who are always called by the natives of this district Wangara- Melle; “sido” means dwelling, in Fulfalde.
6th. A village belonging to Barba or Birgu.
7th. A village of idolaters, in a mountainous district.
8th. Sabaélga, a pagan village, still under Gurma. Bi- zaggu, one day west from here.
9th. Sabalgw, a small village, the whole country moun- tainous.
10th. 11th.
A small watercourse. Majori now deserted.
. Halt in the wilderness “on the bank of a river ” (baki-
n-gulbi), which is crossed on skins.
Barbar, a hamlet.
Famma; a mountain towards the east.
Halt “on the bank of a river” (baki-n-gulbi) in the wilderness.
Falalé or Féllalé, a large village, inhabited by native Gurma, naked and only protecting their hind quarters with a wisp. Mountainous. “ Falalé,” as I have said, means mountain or rock.
Belgu, called by the Hausa-traders “ maigigiiia,” on account of its being so rich in deléb-palms. _ Si- tuated on the bank of a river in a mountainous district.
Sansinne Mangho or Mango (“the camp of Moham- med”), an old settlement of the Mandingoes or WAan- garawa, who seem to have been settled in this quar-
~
556 APPENDIX VI.
ter from ancient times, engaged in the gold trade be- tween Kong and Kadkia (the old capital of Songhay), which received its gold from hence. Even now a peculiar weight of mithkal (see Vol. V. p. 23) is still used here. ‘The number of inhabitants about 3000. The name of the present governor is Kancho. From hence a track leads to Wéghodogé.
16th. Halt on the border of a river, having crossed another river in the course of the day.
17th. A well inhabited (probably Mandingo or Wangara) place called by the Hausa traders “ gari-n-maibén- dega,” on account of the people being all armed with muskets. ‘Territory of governor Mangha.
18th. Sakoiga, territory of Yendi.
19th. Yendi, an important place, but not near so large as was believed formerly, from the account given by the travellers to Asianti, it appearing in reality to have a population of about 5000. They are idol- aters, and drink baiza or péto in great quantity. The name of the governor is Kirg4ngu, before whose house two baskets of meat are daily given to the vultures, to whom a sort of worship seems to be paid. ;
20th. Sambo, a village situated on the other side of the river.
21st. Kébier or Koébia.
22nd. A halt on the bank of a river, no village.
23rd. Sungingu.
24th. Taru, a village.
25th. Yansala.
26th. Salga, or Selga, capital of the province of Gonja, resi- dence of a governor; population about 1000 inhabi- tants, the market of the giro trade, and destitute of water, which is brought from a rivulet at some dis- tance called ‘gulbi-n-barawu,” on account of its being occasionally infested by robbers.
.
YENDI. — SELGA. — KONG. yey
I will now give at once the route from this place, which is connected with Kumassi the capital of Asianti by a tolerably ascertained route, to Tanéra or Tangréra, an important point approximatively laid down according to Caillié’s route.
B. — Route from Selga to Tanéra by way of Kong, very
short marches.
Ist day. Sigunkollo, a small town belonging to the province
2nd. 3rd.
Ath,
5th.
6th.
13th.
26th.
27th. 28th. 29th.
of Gonja, but ruled by a governor of its own.
Kénkorost, a place in a district rich in giro trees.
A rivulet called by the Hausa traders “ kirremi-n- fitta,” on account of its banks being richly clad with the tree which supplies the leaves called “ fitta,” wherein the gtiro is packed up in the little baskets called “* wagha.”
Halt in the “ARG traversed by a ae and frequented by elephants.
A rivulet containing gold particles in its Poa and therefore called ‘“ gulbi-n-zinaria.” Territory of Gonja.
Bitigu, a large town, residence of a governor of the name Adangara, who acknowledges the supremacy of Asianti.
Another river with gold, called therefore ‘“ gulbi- n-zinaria.”
Kong, a large town, the houses consisting entirely of clay dwellings. The inhabitants, Mandingoes or Wangara, and most of them Mohammedans. Also Fullan or Falbe are found there. They have a good deal of weaving, and their cotton is very celebrated, especially the kind called “el harrotafe” in Tim- baktu, with alternating stripes in red and black.
Nafana, a village.
Halt in the fields of Nafana.
A village belonging to the territory of Tagoné, which
558 APPENDIX VI.
stretches southward to the neighbourhood of a con- siderable place called A’rna.
30th. A large place, likewise in Tégoné.
3lst. Halt on the bank of a rivulet running from N. to S., navigable during the rainy season, and then ani- mated by river horses, but without water in the dry season.
32nd. Kému, a large town of the territory of Tagon6, with a considerable mountain towards the south, and many small watercourses.
33rd. Another village of Tagoné.
34th. Village belonging to the territory of Falun.
35th. Another village of the same.
36th. A village of the territory Kurdiigu. All these different territories are inhabited by Mandingoes or Wangara.
39th. Kanyénni, a large town situated on a kirremi or a small watercourse and an important market-place, the most important one of this whole tract with the exception of Furé. The inhabitants Wangarawa, mosiemin, and idolaters.
AOth. Ségeand, on a watercourse, as it seems, the same as
that of Kanyénni.
50th. Ganoni, an important market-place of the Faluna.
59th. Tanéra, another place of the Fiéluna larger than Ga- noni, and built of clay. This is evidently Caillié’s Tangréra (i. p. 385, et seg.). In going from Tanéra to Y4mina, or Nydmina, a journey of twenty-nine short marches, the traveller reaches on the fourth day a large river (probably the Bagoé of Caillié), on the other side of which the territory of Yamina com- mences.
C.—From Kirotashi, a town on the east side of the Niger, one day south of Say, to Woghodogho.
lst day. Halt on the west side of the Kwara or I’sa. 2nd. Béti, residence of a chief of Gurma.
3rd. 4th. 5th. 7th.
8th. 9th.
TANGRE’RA. — BE-NA’BA. —- KULFE’LA. 559
Wilderness.
Wilderness.
San-katattigu.
Bizigeu, called by the Hausa traders “ Fada-n-Gurma,” “ palace of Gurma,” and residence of a chief called by them Tobani-n-kifi.
Yenga, the frontier town of Mosi in this direction.
Bennanéba (or rather Be-naba) or Nungu, called Nomma by the Fialbe, Fada-n-Gurma by the Hausa people, the residence of Bojjo the supreme chief of (zurma: the name of his predecessor, it seems, was Chenchirma or Yengirma. The distance from Bi- zauggu to the latter place seems rather long for two common marches, although it certainly does not ex- ceed sixty miles; other people make four halts, the first in Landé; the second in Burgu; the third in Kankanchali, a large town; and the fourth, in a place called by the traders “ Gari-n-Magajia.”
I here subjoin a route leading from Champagére to Lando or Lendé, a place which is of considerable importance on account of its being the residence of the warlike chief Wintélle, whose princely title is Fan-du. From Champagére : —Maydanga a hamlet inhabited by slaves of the Fulbe; Champelga, already belonging to the territory of Lendé; Lendo.
10th. Ténkurgé. 13th. Kulféla, a well-frequented market-place of M6si,
and of greater importance than all the other towns of Mési; the governor’s name is Nabere Gager. The inhabitants are celebrated archers. Another informant going from Kulféla to Tankurgti makes three stations, the first in Ligilde Malgumé, a large town, the second in Lilugié, and the third in a village called Kégo.
15th. Woéghodogho.
ni bode nik they at ae : NORA cea ttmiE Rio;
560 APPENDIX VI.
N.B.—lIf this were a tolerably direct road it would have a great influence upon the position of the various places men- tioned ; but it would seem that my informant turned away from his direct track in order to visit the market-place Kulféla. Other people, in going slowly from Kulféla to Wéghodogho, spend eight days on the road, sleeping the first night in PAshipinga, the second in Téngay, the third in Zorégo, the next in a place ruled by a man called Mane Bogonje, the fifth in another village called Tangay, and reach Wéghodoghé on the eighth. I shall here join Tankurgi with Sansdnne Mangho by an itinerary, which, however, does not lay claim to completeness.
Ist day. Benda, belonging to the territory of Busdnga.
2nd. Samga, a large town.
3rd. Kantanti, residence of a chief of its own.
Ath. Yanga.
5th. Sansdnne Mangho.
D.—From Yagha to Belanga (long marches).
Ist day. Kabo, a village of Yagha.
2nd. Selingu, a Gurma village belonging to the territory of Belanga.
3rd. Jafange, a large Gurma place (long march).
4th. On the bank of the river Shirba in the wilderness.
5th. Belang or Belénga, residence of one of the Gurma chiefs, styled Bélem-béttu (béttu means chief, king, in the Gurma language), who at present is one of the most powerful rulers of that country; his ter- ritory extending about four days’ good march in every direction,— the more important places being Yamba, Sirbalé, Jepangalé, Basérili, Balga, Tubga, Déngo, Tampédo, Mokka, Yopénga, Japango, Béla.
From Belénga to Nungu or Be-naba there are four very
short days, passing by Yamba, a large place, Yébel-yébel, and ~ Tubga.
ra Meera ane ee =” i YS ane 7
BELA’NGA.—BU’SSUMO. 561
K.—From Jibo, capital of the province of Gilgoji or Jilgodi (about 60 miles S. from Mundoro, 55 W.S.W. from A’ribinda, and 35 S.S.W. from Tinge), by way of Kaye, to Mani and Woghodogho (very short marches).
Ist day. Kaje.
2nd. Sebbe.
3rd. Génkoma (not Gaikom4).
4th. Téngomelle or Téngomaye, a market-place of some importance, which may be reached on horseback in one day from Jibo.
5th. Nyange.
6th. Koébay.
7th. Surgtisuma, the last place of the territory of Gilgéji.
8th. Kélbo, the first village of the territory of Mési. The border-district in general is regarded as very unsafe.
9th. Déffia.
10th. Sokkopéndu.
11th. Kondu-bétto (probably not the name of the place, but that of the chief; this is perhaps the place IXondu or Kamgo, which is said to have resisted successfully an expedition of Sheikho A’hmedu).
12th. Saba.
13th. Makkeri.
14th. Kaye, an important place, where several roads meet.
From Kaye to Woghodogho.
Ist day. Jetinga.
2nd. Nessemetinga.
3rd. Lida.
4th. Maku.
5th. Bassumo (or as it is called by the traders “ Fadan Bissumo”), an important place, residence of a powerful chief, probably the most powerful of the
VOL. IV. 00
562 APPENDIX VI.
Moési chiefs at the present time, especially with regard to cavalry.
6th. Kurzumégo, residence of a governor (‘ yerima”) under Bissumo.
7th. Mani, another residence of a powerful chief who, however, in a certain degree seems to acknowledge the supremacy of Bissumo.
8th. Yako, a considerable place.
10th. Wéghodogé.
E.— From Mani— Vadega.
Ist day. Yako.
2nd. Kurzomégo, not identical, as it appears, with the synonymous place mentioned in the previous itinerary; residence of a governor under Yadega.
3rd. Jega, a considerable place, with huts of reed.
4th. Zamche.
5th. Damméko.
6th. Pissela.
7th. Yerimchi (probably only a name given to the place by the traders as being the residence of a yerima or governor).
Sth. YAadega.
G1.—From Mani to Kong and back by a more easterly road.
Ist day. Temma.
2nd. Yako.
3rd. La.
Ath. Sarma.
5th. Béfori.
6th. Safané.
7th. Langaféra.
8th. Ditdri.
9th. Téberé.
10th. Kong, a large place, according to informant, inhabited
KONG.—BELU’SSA. 563
by Bambara. It can scarcely be identical with the well-known town Kong, if the itinerary be correct ; but nevertheless it may be the case.
G 2.—Return from Kong.
Ist day. Fura, a large market-place. 2nd. Dalo.
3rd. Kebéne.
4th. Duillugu.
5th. Dakay, a place belonging to the territory of Mési. 6th. Kamshégo.
7th. Neténga.
8th. Limbilé.
9th. Jéngaré. -
10th. Tenga.
11th. Yama.
12th. ’migu.
13th. Mani.
H.—From Kaye to Belissa, and thence to Belanga.
Ist day. Dimla, a large town of Moési, with a warlike popu- lation, therefore called ‘‘ maimashi” (mistress of spears) by the traders.
2nd. Ponsa, also a considerable place.
3rd. Pissela.
Ath. Beltssa, a large town, seat of an independent Gurma chief who possesses numerous cavalry.
From Beltssa a person on horseback reaches Belanga com- fortably the second day, the great station between these two towns being Alitinga, still belonging to Mési, and an im- portant place, inhabited by Mési and Hausa traders; but common native travellers generally halt twice between Beltssa and Alitinga, in Nyennyéga and Kobitri, and once between Alitinga and Belanga in a Gurma village called
Or Oe. 2
564 APPENDIX VI.
Yamba. Beltissa seems to be situated from Belénga not true W., as I have placed it in the map which I sent home, but a little more to the N.
Between Beltissa and Kulféla lie the following places: — Jiga, Zéimche, Sdlugu (still belonging to the territory of Beldssa), Kumsbégu, Sdre (a market-place), Wundgo, Yir- ndba (residence of a Mandingo or Wangara chief, whom the traders call Yergdwa), then a village belonging to a Pillo ‘resident in Kulféla (“‘ungwa serki-n-Féllani-n-Kulféla”) ;
Futinga, Nakalba, Ligiddemél-dema, and Kulféla.
I.—From Pissela to Dore in Libtako (very short marches).
Ist day. Nagabingo.
2nd. Ponsa, a large place, the same as that mentioned in the preceding itinerary.
3rd. Gungay.
4th. Nantinga.
5th. Légu.
6th. Sambanga.
7th. Nakori.
8th. Kéum.
9th. Belga.
10th. Néba.
llth. Kwala.
12th. Tambo. |
13th. Mararraba, belonging to Libt&ko, and inhabited by Filbe. Mararraba means “half-way” in the Hausa language; and it would be important to know what the names of the two places are between which this village is considered as lying half way.
14th. Kéla, also inhabited by Filbe.
15th. Débbero-énkoy, Fialbe.
16th. Lé&raba.
17th. Dore.
Ne eee ee
SE’GO TO ME/GGARA’. 565
K.— Route from Ségo on the Niger to Méggara in Mienka or
Menka.
Ist. day. Fenya, having crossed a considerable river called
2nd.
3rd. 4th. 5th. 6th. 7th. 8th. 9th. 10th. 11th. 12th. 13th. 14th. 15th. 16th. ¥7th,
Babelé Sirsénkené.
Farani, a place inhabited by Dhidh, Jali, or Man- dingoes.
Finyana (ditto).
Kaya, inhabited by Jtli and Bambara.
Gondigasé.
Sinstinkoré, Bambara.
Enjénené.
Fura, a village inhabited by slaves of the Filbe.
Konobiigu, Bambara.
Sanankoré, Bambara.
Kénina, Bambara.
Segebtigu.
Yensa, in the territory of the Féngfona.
Yessimana.
Jinna or Jinnina, in the territory of Menka.
Jitamana, residence of the chief of Menka.
Mégegara. Here the territory of B6bdé begins. Ten- yéra from here ten days 8. S. W., and Kong about twenty-three, by way of F'6 and Natkhe, 8. E.
003
566
APPENDIX VII.
PEDIGREE OF THE SHEIKH SI’DI A’/HMED EL BAKA’Y.
Sidi ‘Ukba, son of ‘Omar with the surname El Miastajéb, the great conqueror of Barbary.
Sakéra.
Yadrtba.
Said.
“Abd el Kerim.
Mohammed.
Yakhsha.
Doman.
Yahia.
‘Ali.
sidi A’hmed, or Mohammed, el Kunti, born of a Limtina mother called Yageddésh. He is said to have died in Fask, a district W. of Shingit.
Sidi A’hmed el Bakdy, died in Walata.
Sidi ‘Omar e’ Sheikh, is said to have changed the cruel custom, prevailing in the family before him, of murdering all the (male) children except one,—and to have left all his three sonsalive. For this reason it is that his name occupies a prominent position in El Bakdy’s poem. He was a great friend of ‘Abd el Kerim ben Mohammed el Maghili, and is said to have visited, in his company, the learned Sheikh e Soyfiti in Egypt. He is said to have died a. xn. 960 (A.D. 1553), in the district of Gidi or I’gidi, E. of the Sakiet el hamra.
Sidi el WaAfi, although Sidi ‘Omér’s second son, succeeded
PEDIGREE OF THE SHEIKH EL BAKA’Y. 567
his father as Weli, while the Sheikhdom rested with his elder brother Sidi Mukhtar, who died in the sanctuary or chapel called Zawyet Kunta, situated in the neighbourhood of Bé- Ali, the ksar or village of Taw4t where the family of El Maghili resided. El WA4fi’s younger brother was Sidi A’hmed e’ Rega. Sidi Haiballa (Habib-allah).
Ear Mohammed. These four were only We-
Sidi Ba-Bakr. liye, without having the
Bone Ahmed. dignity of Sheikh.
Mukhtar, also called Mukhtar el kebir, in order to distinguish him from his grandson. With him the dignity of Sheikh was transferred into this branch of the family. He died, A.H. 1226 (A.D. 1811). <A dream, or sacred vision, which he had in the year 1209, is very oe in those parts of Negroland.
Sidi Mohammed e’ Sheikh died 2nd Shawal, 1241 (10th May, 1826), during Major Laing’s residence in the hilleh in A’zawad.
Mukhtar, his eldest son, died 1263, in Timbiktu.
Sidi A’hmed el Bakdéy, Mukhtdr’s younger brother, the present chief.
oo 4
568
APPENDIA 9 Ver
TWO POEMS OF THE SHEIKH EL BAKA’Y, WHEREIN HE SATIRIZES THE FU’LBE OF MA’SINA.
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EL BAKA/Y’S FIRST POEM. 569
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570
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APPENDIX VIII.
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EL BAKA’Y’S SECOND POEM. 571
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APPENDIX VIII.
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574 APPENDIX VIII.
TRANSLATION OF THE TWO POEMS OF A’/HMED EL BAKA’Y. |
By Dr. Joun Nicuotson, PENRITH. ‘In the name of Gop,” &c.
“ And our Sheikh and Lord, A’hmed el Bakéy, the son of our Sheikh and Lord Mohammed, the son of our Sheikh and Lord El Mukhtar, said, addressing the assembly of the Fulén of Masina, when they attacked his guest, ‘Abd el Kerim Barth, the Englishman, the Christian. (The metre is khafif.)
“TELL the host of the Fulan,—I say, shameful! Iam attacked in a great and weighty matter. Ye have sought my guest: you will find him, when you do find him, mighty, protected, the free guest of a free man, who is the son of a free woman who was daughter of a freeman, and whose father was a freeman, who lavished benefits. No slave bore me, nor did such foster me in their bosoms as a suckling; and my father is he whom you know, and his father. We have not descended from Sém, except as noble, as munificent, as white of face, as lords or chieftains. Among their mothers there is no daughter of a slave who bears coals, like herself, that she may sell them; whose son is her master, whereas his father is his master; who effected his manumission, as being obedient. No daughter nor son of Haim was my parent, nor will I obey the sons of the lazy Ham. Among the sons of the lazy Ham none but fat women and corpulent men see guests [?]. My guest is my honour, and my honour never was in jeopardy; therefore its guest shall never be imperilled. ‘Abd Mendf ben Kosay ben Kiléb ben Morra, my ancestor, and Luway ben Ghaleb, and Nizdér ben Madd, admonish me
= ee
EL BAKA‘Y’S FIRST POEM. 575
not to fear; and Fehr ben Malik ben El Nadhr* forbids me to entertain alarm or suspicion. El Wafi increases ‘Omar, the Sheikh of the sons of A’hmed el Bakay, by the addition of a fair, freeborn man; and El Kunti increased him — the progeny of ‘Ali—who sprang from ‘Ukba the Accepted, who perished heroically. Such were my ancestors, noblemen, and their guest never died in agony.
‘“‘ The Sultan is not alarmed that the homage and allegiance of the Sultan will not be duly paid.t He will not be afraid of you, until the Sultan “Abd el Mejid is afraid of Nukmah.t War and blows are to be found elsewhere than where ye seek ; and wounds among the Zinj drive forth the flowing blood, — without molesting this man,—and long spears and cuts of swords round about on all sides, and the explosion of cannons hither and thither, like thunders which crash in blasts and reverberations. They consider the-death in ‘which men ‘are destroyed,— they count it a garden and a vernal season of noble youths and gallant lads, and mature men who have grown old together in dignity, mounted on sleek, swift horses, steeds, coursers, trained to run, tall piebalds, five-year-olds, tall, fleet, wide-stepping, rapid, apple-rumped, plump, long- boned, strong in back and neck, Arabian blood-horses of El
* All the preceding names are those of well-known ancestors of Mohammed, the prophet: those that follow are the poet’s own.
t I cannot approve this translation of Dr. Nicholson. I read lena and translate—“ The sultan is not afraid, lest he may not be feared, or obedience not be paid him. The Sultan (‘Abd el Mejid) is not a young lad.” El Bakay, I think, opposes here the Sultan ‘Abd el Mejid to the young chief A’hmedu ben A’hmedu, who was quite a young man. Dr. Nicholson observes that there is a great fault in the metre of the first hemistich ; but that the consonants of the text are strictly those of the MS.—H. B.
t This place, Nukmah, or Nugguma, is probably the small place of that name in Masina, and not the village called also “ Ksar el Mallemin,” mentioned above, p. 250. But I am not quite cer- tain about it.—H. B.
576 APPENDIX VIII.
Hodh, or Tagénet, or Kidal*, that are fed upon cooling milk.
«“ T am secure in my position.t He who attempts to con- tend with me will be cut off, overwhelmed. I rely on ALLAH, the Lord of Moses, and Jesus, and the Prophets, that I may see myself contented. He aids the solitary and deserted - with His help, so that He overwhelms the multitude al- together. Lo! Pharaoh was very wicked and very mighty: he lost his way in the sea, and the host were laid low.
“ Oh, Masina! reprove your brother, that he may become a submissive friend to me, like the Im4m Bello; or that he may be to me as both his parents were before: if they did not suffer, they did not fear. Or, let him leave me alone with his evil, and I will leave him alone. The best of evil is that it should not manifest itself.
‘‘ Behold! the learned and the humane among you, the AM Fédiyet; they do not adopt a chief; they do not adopt any but one who is wise about the way of the Most High, and who sees and hears. They respect the honourable, because they are themselves such. They do not associate with the ignoble: they only consort with those that are saints, learned, poets, pious, abstemious. Repair the evil ye have done our neighbour ; and preserve affection for us, preserve for us unfailing grati- tude and inviolate brotherhood. If ye were willing, like them, ye should be in it, and would earn both fame and benefits. But nature is queen. If cowards only could, they certainly would be brave.”
* Three districts celebrated for their breed of horses. Kaidal lies between Mabrik and the country of the Awelimmiden.—H. B.
+ Literally, “ My fat is in my wallet.” Freitag, “Arab. Prov.” i. p. 664.
t The poet here exhibits to the hostile ruler of Masina the do- cile behaviour of his friends, the rulers of Sdkoto, the successors of the Sheikh Fédiye.—H. B.
¢
EL BAKA’Y’S SECOND POEM. Ota
& And he said again,—addressing the Fullén on the subject of his guest. (The metre is Tawil.)
«Dip Mohammed Sid, the slave, and that slave a black one, really come from A’hmed [ben] A’hmed, to inquire about my guest, in order to make him return as [become | his guest, that he might plunder him, and fetter him, and make him a guest of Kadri with him, and with San-Shirfu ? * My guest is not accustomed to this! Or did Yaktdn say the speech? Is he not a dreamer? Yes, a dreamer, by AutuaH! A’hmed, A’hmed! And, besides my guest, there is ‘Adkil,and Yalamlam, and Ridhwa, and Hamlan, and Kudsu, and Dhurwad.t. Will he take him before death and the Indian ecimitars seize on his own head? Will he take him while the sword and the spear are asleep, by stealth? Lio, the lances do not miss their aim! Will he take him where all the Tawarek are, and of the Arabs, a Sheikh, and a mature man, and a lad ?
“The descendants of the Sheikh “Othman ben Féodiye are our army ; and of our army Misa ben Bodhal is a wit- ness; and Targaitamdtu, the lions, whose tribe LikAway {, the nephew of Alkdttabu, leads, who lightens, thunders; and A’khbi ben Sdélem, round whom are the Iewddaren, and Woghdu Agga’l Henne hasa gathered host. And among the Tinkirikif there are noble men, the Benu Hammaldsa, whose troop shows valour; and young men from the Kél e’ Sak, who are lions in calamities, and who are brave, assist my guest. These are the people in El Islam: they do not disappoint me,
* San-Shirfu is the name of one of the two kadhis of Tim- baktu. Katri is the name of the emir.—H. B.
+ This passage about Yaktan neither I nor Dr. Nicholson are able to clear up fully.—H. B.
{ See what is said about this man, whose name is generally pronounced Elagwi, in the Appendix III. to Vol. V. p. 553. A’khbi, Woghdu, and the other people are mentioned repeatedly by me.—H. B.
VOL. IV. Dae oe
578 7 APPENDIX VIII.
and they are my brothers, and very useful and helpful to me, I have among the tribe of the Fullan a body of men in the land who run and hasten to defend the religion of ALLAH. Dearer to them than their house and family and souls is the religion of ALLAH, who is mighty! Whenever they see infidelity and rebellion against their Lord, they resist, and go aside from every impious person. And I have some of the men of ALLAH in the land, and also of the angels, as an auxiliary and a scat- tering host. And my trust—my trust is in ALLAH, whose majesty is great! and there is no help except from Him; and ALLAH is most mighty! So there is no help except from Him; not even from the angels, though they be mighty and worthy of praise. He is Gov, who is great! He redoubles His aid against every oppressor who is violent and exorbitant. As for me, it is sufficient protection against A’hmed that I should pray to ALLAH in the belly * of this night that approaches. I will aim my prayer at Him, at the dawn, like an arrow. He shall find himself, when he sees to-mor- row, smitten with death. But if he repents one day, that will be best for him. But if he refuse,—will not repent, —then the matter is referred to ALLAH. Before him, Pharaoh, and Nimréd, and ‘Add, and Shedd4d ben ‘Add rebelled: but all those on whom their prophets invoked vengeance perished, and disappeared, and were desolated. Moses, and Jesus, and Salih, and Hid, and Abraham, and subsequently Mohammed, called on their Lord. He alone then — glory to his name !—1is the One we invoke. Just as they obey, so will He answer and help the faithful. Then, help me, O Lorp, in the same way as Thou didst help them: for there is no defence and no help above Thee. And bless and prosper them with benedictions; for there are not any among them but those that deserve praise and honour.
«* Finished with the help of Gop,” &c. &e.
* ge. The latter third.
APPENDIX IX.
579
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE
OF THE
HISTORY OF SONGHAY AND THE NEIGHBOURING KINGDOMS,
Songhay.
Za Alayamin (Za el Yemeni) comes to Kiukié (El Bekri’s Kugha,
Ca da Mosto’s Cochia), a very ancient place, and the older resi- dence of Songhay, and founds the eldest dynasty of the Za. The Libyan origin of this dynasty, of which that of the Sonni was a mere continuation, is very dis- tinctly intimated by Leo Afri- canus, in the words “della stirpe di Libya.” {
* A’hmed Baba, J. L. O. S., vol. ix. p. 526. t Descr. dell’ Africa, lib. vii. c. 1.
Begin. of 7th century.
679-80
bo
A.H.
Beginning of Hejra.
60
Already at this early date an
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
The kingdom of Ghana, or Gha-
nata, the central portion of which comprised the present province of Baghena, founded by Wakayamagha or mangha (mangho = great ? Magha = Mohammed?) about three centuries before the Hejra; the ruling family whites (Leucethiopes? Fulbe ?). At the commencement of the Hejra twenty-two kings had ruled.*
extensive Mohammedan quar- ter existed in Ghanata, con- taining 12 mosques.— There is considerable doubt with re- gard to the accuracy of the date.
t+ Memoires de la Soc. de Géogr, vol. iii. p. 1.
580
Songhay.
G66, an important commercial place, where Makhled E’bn Kai- dad, with the surname of A/’bt Yezid, that great revolutionist who brought so much mischief over Northern Africa, was born. His father came often Tozer to this place for trading purposes*, evidently by way of Wargela, that most ancient trad- ing place on the northern border of the desert. We thus see that the commerce between Northern Africa and Negroland was in- Jinitely older than it has ever been supposed. I may here add, that I have not the shghtest doubt that Wargela is meant by the Baka- hitis ‘of “Ptolemy (Clibsav. -«. #7; p- 305., ed. Wilberg.), which he describes from the side of Egypt as lying beyond Fezzan, although no Roman ruins exist in WArgela.
Kika still the ordinary residence of the king of Songhay, who al- ready at that period becomes very powerful.
from |
900
918
961
APPENDIX IX.
A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
222 |Death of Tiltitan, chief of the Limttina, very powerful in the desert ; he adopted Islam, and converted the neighbour- ing Negro tribes.
287 | Death of Ilettan, the successor of Tilttan.
306 | Temim, the successor of Iettan, slain by the Zenagha or Sen- haja, after which a division takes place among the Berber tribes established on the border of the Desert and Negroland.
350 | Tin-Yertitan, king of, or rather a Berber chief having his re- sidence in, Atidaghost, an im- portant trading colony of the Zenagha, who appear at that time to have dominated over
* For this highly important statement, see E’bn Khaldtn, trans. by De Slane, vol. iii. p. 201,
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 581
Songhay.
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
the whole of the neighbour- ing part of Negroland, inclu- ding Ghanata. In the very year mentioned, this place, which carried on at that time a most flourishing trade with Sijil- mésa, was visited by the Arab geographer, E’bn Hatikal.* Kugha (Kukia) was at that period so powerful that the king of Addaghost thought it | prudent to make presents to the king of that place (the king of Senghay), in order to. prevent him from making war upon him. Nevertheless | twenty-three Negro kings | are said to have been tribu- | tary to another king of Atida- | ghost, named Tinezwa, in the | fourth century of the Hejra. | —The site of Audaghost is quite evident from El Bekri’s excellent itinerary : — “ You march five days in the sand- hills of Waran, till you come to | the copious well of the Benf Wareth ; then further on the well Waran; then a well wa- tered district of three days.”
At the same time the abun- dance of gum trees near: Audaghost proves distinctly | that the distance of fifteen | days intervening between Ati- . daghost, or Ghanata (near | Waléta), is to be reckoned in a westerly direction, and that Audaghost therefore is to be sought for in the neigh- | bourhood of Tejigja and Kasr el Barka, and not to the north- east of Walata. TI shall say. more on this subject in another place. — At that time Aulil was the great place for salt.
* Journal Asiatique, i. 1842, p. 50. PP 3
582 APPENDIX IX.
ee ne a eee eee
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
990 380 {Intercourse established with Negroland, according to the | statement of Leo.*
Za Kasi, the 15th prince of the} 1009 400 dynasty of the Za, adopts Islam.
1034-5} 426 |A’bu ‘Abd Allah, son of Ti- | faut, surnamed Naresht, again | unites under his sway all the | Berber tribes of the desert; | makes a pilgrimage; dies | 429, i
1040-1} 432 | Warjabi, the Mohammedan |} apostle of Tekrur, died. | Among others, the inhabitants | of Silla were converted by | him.
1043-4; 485 | Jinni is founded f, and soon be- | comes wealthy, owing to the | trade in salt (from Teghaza) | and gold (from Bitu).
1048-9} 440 |‘Abd Allah E’bn Yasin begins | to teach and to reform.
1052 445 | Addaghost, which had become | dependent upon Ghanata, | conquered and ransacked by | the Merabetin, the disciples of | ‘Abd Allah Ebn Yasin, in the | same year as Sijilmésa. |
1055-6} 447 | Yahia E’bn ‘Omar, chief of the | Mer4betin, dies, and is suc- | ceeded by his brother A’but | Bakr. The king of Ghanata, | Tankamenin, son of the sister | of Besi, an excellent king, evi- | dently dependent on A’bu | Bakr.
* Leo, il. vii. c.1. even speaks of Negroland as if it had been quite unknown before this time, ‘ furono scoperti.’
+ Ahmed Baba, J. L. O. S. vol. ix. p.528. seq. He describes the site of this important town in the most perspicuous: and clear manner as being part of the year, from August to February, an island. The town was first founded ina place called Zagaru, on the south side of the southerly branch of the river, and therefore not identical with the Zaghari of E’bn Batata. El Bekriappears to have had no knowledge of Jinni.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY.
Songhay.
583
Neighbouring Kingdoms,
A’bu Bakr ben ‘Omar makes an expedition on a grand scale against the Negro tribes.
1061 453
A’bi, ‘Obaid Allah el Bekri’s invaluable Account of Negroland.
Goée6*, or Gagho (the capital of Songhay), consisting of two towns, one the residence of the king and the quarter of the Mohammedans, the other inhabited by idolaters.
The Mohammedan worship so pre- dominant already, that none but a Moslim could be king; nay, on the accession of a new king three royal emblems, consisting of a ring, a
sword, and a Kuran (W-~2-), which were said to have been hand- ed down from former times, having been sent by an Emir el Mimenin (evidently from Egypt), were given to him. ‘Thus we see, that already at that early period the king of Son- ghay was a Ruler of the Faithful, and the account of A’hmed Baba, who dates Islam in this kingdom from the year 400, is confirmed in a remarkable manner. El Bekri calls the then ruling king Kanda, and he is most probably identical with the Z& Bayuki or Bayarkoy Kaima (of A’hmed Baba), the third successor of Z4 Kasi.
Goed already at that time was an important market place, chiefly for salt, which was brought from the Berber town Tatitek, six days be- yond Tademékka, which place was nine days from Gégo.
El Bekri, besides Géa6, gives a very interesting account of Kugha, but, unfortunately, he gives no par-
1067 460 |The Senhaja at this period ruled over the whole western part of the desert, and spread Islam over the neighbour- ing parts of Negroland, espe- cially towards Ghanata.
Further eastward, between the southerly bend of the Niger and the later town of A’gades, were the Seghmara, under the dominion of the ‘Tademékka, who had a very large town (Tademékka), a great com- mercial centre, nine days from Gog6, and forty from Gha- dames.
Between Tademékka and Gha- nata there was a commercial place of importance called Tirekka (see Vol. V. p. 150.). Sama and Hoémbori, consider- able seats of power.
(7. : * El Bekri, ed. Macguckin de Slane, p. 183. The name? waad \, which the Arabs gave to the inhabitants
seems to have some connection with the surname of one of the successors of Sunni, Bazekin or Bazerkin, ¢ El Bekri, 179. It is a great pity that just in this place the author, whose statements in general are distinguished by their clearness, should commit a palpable mistake, by placing Ambara (Hémbori) west of Ghanata.
PP 4
584 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
ticulars with regard to its situ-
ation, except the distance of fifteen
days from Ghanata, and especially
neglects to determine its situation
with regard to Gégé; but there is
no doubt that it was identical with
the Kvikia of A’hmed Baba, the old
capital, Ca da Mosto’s Cochia.* This town, therefore, which was lying
at the very outset of the Egyptian
caravan road, already at that time ,
was inhabited exclusively by Mo- ;
hammedans, while all around were .
idolaters. It was the greatest *
market for gold in all Negro-
land, although the quality of the
gold brought to Auvdaghost was
better than that exported from
Ktigha. Besides gold, salt, woda
or shells (from Persia ?), copper
and euphorbium ((.)9+! ) 3S ?) were the chief articles of trade.
1076 469 |Ghanata conquered by the Sen- | haja, and great part of the inhabitants, as well as the neighbouring districts of Ne- eroland, compelled by the Merabetin to embrace the
Mohammedan faith. A’bti Bakr ben ‘Omar takes up Towards the end of the fifth century his residence in this part of | — of the Hejra, Timbuktu, or Tum- Negroland. :
butu, founded by the I’mdshagh (Tawarek), especially the tribes of the I’denan and the Imedidderen, after it had been for a time their occasional camping ground, just as was the case with A’rawan. First settlement at Bosebango. It was at first a small market place for the inhabitants of the province of Rad. (?)
1087-8 480 | A’bti Bakr ben ‘Omar dies.
* Aloise Ca da Mosto, Navigazione, c. 14.
| CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 585
\
1 }
Songhay.
G66, according to Edrisi, powerful, and dominating over the neigh- bouring tracts; horses and camels; the nobility well dressed, having the face veiled; the common peo- ple wearing leathern frocks. ‘The natives of Aujila already at that period carried on a spirited trade with Gég6 (Edrisi, vol. i. p. 238.).
A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
1153 548 | El Edrisi’s account of Negro- land, composed at this period, is not to be relied on in ge- neral, with the exception of a few instances, where he enters into particulars: for instance, the populous state of the towns of Silla and Tekrtir (Zagha), the latter being more populousand industrious; the salt mines of Aulil,—the only ones known at that time in Negroland! (p.11.); the rising of the Mandingo, or Wangara race (the Wakoré), a name then first appearing. Very doubtful appear the following data:— Tirki, or Tirekka, belonging to Wan- gara; even Kugha, a de- pendence of Wangara, while at the same time Gdée6—the real Gogé *—is said to have been absolute and independent. The great commercial import- ance of Wargela is confirmed, the inhabitants supplying Gée6d with dates, and buying up the greater part of the gold brought there to market. Rice culti- vated on the Niger, in the district of the Merasa.
Ghanata ruled by a descendant of A’bu Taleb fT, of the Zenagha tribe, who paid allegiance to the khalif in the East; but, if we can believe Edrisi, he had still a large empire.
1203-4, 600 | Ghanata having become very weak, is conquered by the Stisu, a tribe related to the Wakoré.
* Edrisi makes great confusion, produced by the similarity of the names, Gégé or K6k6, Kika (on the Fittri), and Kerker ; but what he relates (i. p. 23.) seems really to refer to Gégo.
+ Edrisi, i. p. 61.; Compare Cooley, p. 66.
586 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Pee a woe =
1203-4 600 |The tribe or dynasty of the A’risiyin becomes powerful | in the neighbourhood of Walata.
The inhabitants of Jinni, at | least the ruling portion, in- cluding the king, adopt Islam.
Timbiktu (erroneously) stated by | 1213 610 |? Baramindaina, first Moslim Leo Africanus* to have been king of Melle, styled king of founded by Mansa Sliman. This is Tekrtir by Makrizi, makes the evident confusion; the reason of pilgrimage. which is, that Mansa Sliman, who reigned in the middle of the four- teenth century, restored Tim- buktu after it had been plundered by the people of Mési.
pig sy FERED Went neat =
1233-4 631-633 | With the death of E’bn Gha- nia the domination of the great race of the Senhaja ends.f ‘The remains of this great tribe in the southern part of the desert (the Lim- tina and Messtifa) [the latter as Meshedtif] are gradually reduced to the degraded con- dition of tributaries. Islam spreads east of the Niger, and the name Tekrur appears in Kebbi, probably in connection | with the town of Zagha (see | Appendix VI.). Biru, or} Waldta, at that time the} great emporium of Western Negroland.
1235 | 633-658 | Méri Jétah, king of Melle, on| — -1260 the upper Niger, conquers the
* Leo, |. vii. c.6. As it is certain that no king of the name Sliman ruled at that period over Melle, Mr. Cooley, in order to explain Leo’s statement, supposed him to. be a king of the Sisu. — Negvoland of the Arabs, p. 67. seq.
+ E’bn Khaldtn, trans. by De Slane, vol. ii. p. 83. Thesame author, vol. ii. p.160. seq., is the authority for the history of Melle. Comp. Cooley, ‘‘ Negroland,” p. 61. seq.
eer
CHRONOLOGICAL .TABLE OF THE
Songhay. A.D.
HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 587
A.H.
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Stisu, who at that time were masters of Ghanata. This is evidently the period of the beginning of the great com- mercial importance of Jinni, which now became a most powerful and wealthy state, as a well-frequented market of the Serracolets or Wakoré, Fulbe, Jolof, Zenagha, the in- habitants of Western Tekrur, | and the Udaya.*
1259 | 658-675 | Mansa W4li, son of Mari Jatah,
-1276
1276
| | Some authors, such as Makrizi| 1310
(Opuscl. Mscr. fol. 129 r.), at- tribute to this chief the conquest of Gagho or Gégo, that is to say, Songhay, by the Mellians ; but from the account of A’hmed Baba it is clear that such was not the case.
675
710
performs the pilgrimage to Mekka in the reign of Sultan Bibars.
Mansa Wali, brother of the lat-
ter.
Mansa Khalifa, succeeds him ;
of insane mind; is murdered by his people.
NansH A’bu Bakr.
Saktira, or rather SAbkara, a ? ?
usurper, made the pilgrimage to Mekka in the time of El Malik e’ Nasir.
1311 | 711-731 | Mansa Musa (properly Kun-
-1331
kur Musa), the greatest king of Melle, succeeds this usurper, develops the whole military and political power of that kingdom, which,
* De Barros, Asia, ed. Lisboa, 1778, 1. i. c. 8. p. 220,
588 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay.
It is probably at the period of this pilgrimage, and not before, that both Songhay and Timbuktu be- came dependent on Melle, al- though the dependence was even at this time limited, the king of Songhay having, as it seems, quietly made his. subjection on the approach of the host of Melle. Musa built a mosque and a mih- rab outside the then town (Mo- hammedan quarter ?) of Gdgo.
|Timbuktu also, as it would seem,
* A’hmed Baba, in Journ. Leipsic Oriental Society, p. 530.
Mansa Musa subjected to his
Mansa Musa makes a pilgrim-
Melle Proper seems to have had J |
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
according to the expressive terms of A’hmed Baba*, the} — Songhay historian, possessed |
““an aggressive strength with- | out measure or limit.” While | thus extending his dominion over an immense portion of Negroland, he kept on the very best terms with the Sultan A’bu’l Hassan of El
Maghreb (Morocco). |
dominion the four large ter- |. ritories of the Western part of Negroland; first, Baghena, formed out of the remnants of the kingdom of Ghanata, | and including the whole in- | habited country of Taganet | — and A’derér; secondly, Zagha, | — or the Western Tekrur, toge- | _ ther with Silla; then Tim- | buktu, at that time still, as it | — seems, independent of Go2d; 4 and finally Songhay, with its | — capital Gég6. Jinni, however, | probably owing to its nearly | insular character seems not i to have become subjected to | — Melle even at this period, al- | though it was engaged in con- | — tinual warfare. |
age to Mekka, with a very numerous cortége, resembling an army, and with great riches, 7 going by way of ‘Walata and | f Tawat and returning by Ga- | | gho or Gé26.
a double principle of govern- | ment, one political and the | other national. In _ political | respects Melle was divided into | two provinces—a northerly |
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 589
Songhay.
surrendered without resistance *, and the king of Melle built here a palace (ma-dugu), and the great mosque Jéngeré-bér, or Jama el kebira, with the assistance of the same I’s-hak, a native of Granata (the “Granata vir artificissimus” of Leo, although commonly called e’ Saheli, as if he were a native of Morocco), who built his palace in Melle. That space of the town of Timbuktu included between the two great mosques, Jéngeré-bér in the south-western, and San- koré in the northern quarter, was at that time open, and not in- habited. The mosque San-koré is generally stated to have been the oldest mosque in Timbuktu, al- though A’hmed Baba, who only states that it was built at the ex- pense of a rich wife, is not very explicit with regard to this cir- cuimstance.
Although Timbtktu thus lost its independence, it reaped a great advantage from becoming a por- tion of a powerful kingdom, and being thus well protected against any violence offered on the part of the neighbouring Berber popu- lation; and in consequence the town increased rapidly, it becom- ing soon a market place of the first rank, so that the most respectable ‘merchants from Misr, Fezzan, Gha- dames, Tawat, Tafilélet, Darah, Fas, Suis, and other places gra- dually left Biru or Walata, and
* The translation of Mr. Ralfs in the Journal of the Leipsic Oriental Society is here not correct.
“er bezwang Tumbuaktu,” while the words of the author are ELE
~]
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
and a southerly one, probably divided by the Dhitlba; the governor of the former bein called Farané (Farengh) St- ra, the other Sangharzu-ma.f But in national respects Melle formed three large provinces, Kala, Bennendtigu, and Sabar- dtigu, each with twelve chiefs or governors {, and each re- presented at court by an in- spector ; the inspector of the province of Kala was called Wafala-feréngh. Kala com- prised evidently the province next to Jinni along the north- ern side of the river, including the towns of Sare and Sdme; and the town of Kala itself; which formed the residence of the province, will be spoken of in the Appendix to Vol. V. Bennendtgu, also, the country of the Benni, known from other accounts, lay entirely on the S. side of the river, and Sabardtigu beyond, in the di- rection of the central portion of Melle. The important dis- trict Bitu or Bido seems to have been included in Melle Proper.
He translates
3. We do not know what part in
these affairs the general, Sagminhu, hore, who, according to Ebn Khaldin’s account, was stated by some of his
informants to have achieved this conquest.
ie
There may have been partial resistance in Songhay.
J + V0 U3 nS & aye The final ‘ ma,” in Mandingo, corresponds exactly with the final “ma” in
‘the Kantiri titles. ft It isa very remarkable fact, that the titles mentioned by A’hmed Baba are all formed by attaching to the name of a town the syllable *‘ koy,’’ which would seem to be of Songhay origin,
590 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms,
migrated to Timbiuktu, although this was more frequently the case after the time of Sonni ‘Ali.
The town of Timbtiktu ransacked | 1829 | ? 730 and destroyed by fire and sword by the king of Mosi, the garrison of Melle making their escape, and giving up the town. ‘The power of Mési, which up to this time has always been the successful cham- pion of paganism, is very remark- able at such an early period, but the date is not quite certain within a year or two. If the date given i] be right, it happened towards the Es end of the reign of Mansa Musa.
1331-5] 732-736 | Mansa Magha succeeds to his | father Mansa Musa, and reigns | four years,
The Songhay prince, ‘Ali Killun, or Kilnu, son of ZA Yasebi, escapes in the company of his brother from the court of Melle, where the princes had served as pages, Son- ghay owing allegiance to Melle at that period. Having safely reached his native country, Son- ghay Proper, with the capital Gdg6, he makes himself independent in a certain degree from Melle, by founding the dynasty of the Sonni.*
1335-6| 736 | Mansa Slim4n, a brother of Mu- sa and uncle of Magha, suc- ceeds to the throne of Melle, and restores the strength of the kingdom.
Timbtiktu having been left, as it 737 Mansa Sliman again takes pos-. seems, to itself for seven years, session of Timbuktuy, and relapses into a state of subjection even obliges Songhay Proper
* A’hmed Babé says (p. 524.), “‘Alf Killun put an end to the supremacy of Melle over Songhay. After his death — his brother ruled, Silman Nar. Their dominion was limited to Songhay and the neighbouring districts.”
+ The date seems to be certain, for if A’hmed Baba had only known that the second dominion of the kings of — Melle over Timbuktu, which they lost in the year 837, had lasted 100 years, we might doubt about the fact that the epoch began exactly with the year 737, but the author gives the precise date of that very year. I therefore prefer his arrangement to the arguments of Mr. Ralfs, p. 582.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 591
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms, or allegiance to Melle, and re- to acknowledge his supre- mains in this condition for the macy.
next 100 years.
752 |A king of Tekrir makes a pilgrimage.*
Travels of E’bn Battita, who visits |1852-3) 753-754
-| Walata, the frontier province of Melle, and an important trading- place, where at that time the Ma- stifa formed the higher class; thence by way of Karsekho, he went to Melle, or Mali, the capital of the great empire, situated on a north- erly creek of the DhiulibaT; whence he proceeded by land by way of Mimah to Timbuktu.
Timbuktu at that time was in- The town of Tademékka, or habited mostly by people of Mimah rather Stik, in the territory and by Tawdrek (Molathemin), of the Tademekket, had by especially Mastifa, who had a head- this time evidently lost a man of their own, while the Melle great deal of its importance. governor was Farba Musa.
E’bn Battita embarked in Timbiktu, or rather K4bara, and went along the river to Gégo, evidently at that time the common highroad of travellers. G6g6 at that period was in a certain degree dependent on Melle.
1359 | 760 |Mansa E’bn Slimfn reigned nine months.
1360 761 | Mansa Jatah, son of Mansa M4- gha, ascended the throne.
1360-1} 762 |The same king sent an embassy
to A’bt el Hassan of Morocco.
The fact of Mari Jatah conquering | 1373 775 | Mansa Misa (II.), son of the
Tekadda, at that time the com- latter, a weak king, the vizier mercial entrepdt between Songhay Mari Jatah usurping the and Egypt, also mentioned by K’bn power and conquering TekAd- Battita, shows clearly that he was da (the trading place spoken master of Songhay, and exercised of on a former occasion, Vol. I. over it a certain degree of supre- p. 465.) for a short time.
macy. ‘Timbuktu, as Timbuch, appears in the Mappamondo Ca- talan — the first time that it be- comes known to Europeans.
* Makrizi, Notes et Extraits, vol. xii. p. 638. mole. t Cooley, ‘* Negroland,” p. 79.
a
592 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A:H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
1387 | 789 |Mansa Magha, brother of the
preceding king, succeeds to the throne; is killed after a reign of about a year.
1388 790 | Another usurper.
1390 792 | Mahmud, a descendant of Mari Jatah, the first king. | 4 1431 | 835 | A king of Tekrar makes a pil- | grimage, dies in the town of | — Tor in the peninsula of Sinai.
Timbuktu conquered by the I’mé- | 1433 837 |Theempire of Melie begins gra-
shagh (probably not the Mastfa, at dually to decline; the power that time not yet blended with the being divided among three, or Arabs, and who had always been rather five, separate parties, powerful in that place) under the governors of each of the A’kil (Eg Malwal). The people of three national provinces and | — Melle had been so much weak- the two governors of the po- | — ened by continual inroads that they litical provinces; the Tawa-| retired before the greater force, rek at the same time spread- | —
and were driven out for ever. A’kil, ing devastation everywhere. however, did not reside in the town, preferring a nomadic life ; but he installed as governor, or Ttimbutu-koy, Mohammed Nasr, a Senhaji from Shingit, who had also taken part in the government of the town under the rule of Melle. This Mohammed Nasr built the mosque Y4hia in Timbuktu, which was called after his friend the Weli Yahia from Tadelest. To the Tambutu-koy belonged the third part of all taxes and of the whole revenue of the town. In the beginning the rule of the Ta- warek, which according to the distinct statement of A’hmed Baba never extended beyond the river, was mild; but gradually they be- came overbearing, using even vi0- lence towards the wives of the inhabitants, and offending ‘Omar, the son and successor of Moham- med Nasr, by cheating him of his revenue. :
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE
Songhay. A.D.
1448
1454
Timbuktu, or Timbutu, an impor- tant entrepot for the salt trade.
1460
Sonni ‘Ali, son of Sonni Mohammed !1464-5 Dat, “the great tyrant and fa- mous miscreant,” but a king of the highest historical importance for Negroland, the sixteenth of the Sonni, ascended the throne in Gagho, and changed the whole |
HISTORY OF SONGHAY.
860
593
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
The Portuguese Company for
opening the trade along the coast of Africa is established.
Melle, in the account of Aloise
Ca da Mosto, still a very pow- erful kingdom, the most pow- erful in the whole of Negro- land, including the whole of the Gambia, and most import- ant for the commerce of gold, the trade in which divided in- to three branches; one pro- ceeding from Melle towards Kuakia, and thence to Egypt; the other from Melle to Tuim- butu, and thence to Tawat ; the other likewise by way of Tambutu, but thence toWadan | (Oden),which then was a very important place, not only for gold but also for the slave trade.* Timbuktu already at that time was a very important entrepot for the salt, which | all came from the mines of Teghaza.
865-6 |The town of A’gades, built ac-
869
cording to Marmol (see Vol. I. p- 459.), and nothing is more probable than that this com- mercial entrepdt was built about this time, perhaps a few years later, as it is Sonni ‘Alf who is said to have destroyed the very important market- place of Tademékka, which for many centuries had carried on the commerce between the Niger and Egypt.
* Cada Mosto, Prima Navigazione, c. 13, With regard to Oden, see c.10.; for Timbuktu, c. 12.
VOL. IV. QQ
594 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
face of this part of Africa by prostrating the kingdom of Melle.
Invited by ‘Omar, the Timbutu-koy, |1468-9| 873 Sonni ‘Ali marches against Tim- buiktu, which had never before be- longed to Songhay Proper. While his horsemen appear on the south side of the river, A’kil makes his escape towards Biru or Walata. Sonni ‘Ali then, instead of attack- ing immediately the town of Tim- buktu, went first to E] Hédh, the south-western province of Walata. Having thence returned to Tim- buktu, from whence ‘Omar also, the Tuimbutu-koy, had meanwhile fled to Biru*, he ransacked and plundered the town, and made a terrible havoc amongst its inhabit- ants, even surpassing that which took place on the occasion of the pagan king of Méshi conquering the town. Sonni ‘Ali seems especially to have exercised some cruelty against the learned men. But, notwithstanding, the town seems soon to have recovered from this blow, for it was in the latter part of this century that it became more densely inhabited than before. But the reason was that, in consequence of the conquests of Sonni ‘Ali, the Arab merchants from the north
broke off their traffic with Ghanata Walata or Biru becomes insig- | _ or Walata (Biru), and instead nificant, all the merchants | began to visit the markets of ‘Tim- emigrating to Timbtiktu and | biktu and Gég6. Gogo. i”
Sonni ‘Alf conquered Baghena, that is, the centre or original part of the ancient kingdom of Ghanata and the later Walata, but satisfied him- self with making the chief of that country his tributary. Sonni ‘Ali then made Jinni likewise tribu- tary, which place had not been con-
* From A’hmed Baba we learn nothing more respecting the fate of “Omar; but we see in another passage that 2
Sonni ‘Alf imprisoned Al Mukhtar, another son of Mohammed Nasr, who, from what follows, it is evident, was Tambutu-koy. a |
ae F
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 595
Songhay.
quered even by the kings of Melle, and he there likewise caused an immense bloodshed. Jinni was at that time highly flourishing through its industry in native cloth.* Ata later time the first A’ski4 held the king of Jinni as a prisoner in his capital. (Leo, |. vi. c. 3.)
_| It must have been Sonni ‘Ali to whom
SLR hth ee a ee a ee rs eI
Ce ee
Joao II. of Portugal, sent an em- bassy; and it was evidently that king who allowed the Portuguese to establish a factory in Wadan, or Ho6den, which however they did not preserve for a long time, the place being too barren, and at too con- siderable a distance from the coast. But nevertheless, the establish- ment of this factory is a very re- markable fact.
A.D.
1471
1481
1488
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
In the South-Western part of
the desert the Berabish and the Udaya struggling for the predominance. The Zenagha already in a degraded position.
The coast of Guinea explored
by the Portuguese.
Alfonso V. dies; is succeeded
by the still more energetic Joao IT}. The Portuguese build Elmina, the first Euro- pean establishment on the coast of Guinea.
The Jolof Prince, Bemoy, came
to Portugal, and communi- cated so much information with regard to the nations of the interior of Africa, espe- cially the Mosi, who, accord- ing to him, had much in common with Christians, that he excited the greatest inter- est. It was supposed that the king of Mési was the long sought Prester John. Ogane is the native royal title of the king of Mési. In con- sequence, from this time for- ward, numerous messengers were sent into the interior by
* De Barros, in the highly interesting passage, i. 1. 3. c. 12. p.257.; and the curious report of the German Va-
lentin Ferdinand, by Kunstmann, in Abhandlungen der K. Baier. Akad. cl. iii. vol. viii. first section a. 1856.
It is,
_ however, remarkable that the German author, although he speaks of Wadan, does not say anything of it ever
having been a factory.
QQ 2
596 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
— 5 ee
the king Joao from different quarters, and a nearer alliance seems to have been concluded with the king of the Mandin- goes, although it was well understood in Portugal at that time that the empire of the Mellians had fallen to ruin. — 5th Nov. |15th Mohar. Sonni ‘Alf was drowned in a tor- | 1492 898 rent on his return from an expe- dition against Gurma, after having conquered the Zoghoran* (not Zaghwana) and the Fudldn. The power of the tribe of the Fullan in those quarters, in the south of Songhay, at so early a date is of the highest interest; in the west they are noticed at the same period repeatedly by De Barros.T 2 Jumad, The army of the deceased king pro-| - - 898 ceeded from Banebi (Benaba ? the capital of Gurma, see Appendix VI. p. 560.) to Dangha, evidently the place (Denga) touched at by myself on my journey, and here A’bti Bakr Dau, son of Sonni ‘Ali, ascended the throne. But Mo- hammed, son of A’bu Bakr, a na- tive of Songhay (“ Nigrita”—Leo) and officer of Sonni, collected his party and marched against the new king. But having attacked him at Dangha, he was beaten, when he escaped to the neighbourhood of Gagho, where he collected again his army, and vanquished the king in a most sanguinary but decisive battle. Sonni A’bu Bakr Dat. fled to Abar (Adar ?), where he died. 14 Jum. II. Mohammed ben A/bi Bakr, sur-|- -| 898 named e Thiuri, on ascending the throne with the titles Emir el Mu- menin and Khalifa el Moslemin, adopted as royal title, A’skia, or
* See what I have said respecting the tribe of the Zoghoran, or Jawambe, p. 175. ft See De Barros, in the passage mentioned before, ‘‘rey dos Fullos.”
Poe a
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 597
Songhay.
Sikkia.* Thus the dynasty of a foreign family, Libyan, Coptic, or Himyaritic, was supplanted by a native Songhay and African — (e torno el dominio nei Negri) —al- though it leaned more towards Islam and Mohammedan learning than the former one. For A’skia was a friend of the learned, and followed their advice.
The first thing which this great Son-
ghay king felt it incumbent to do was to give his subjects some re- pose, by reducing his army and allowing part of the people to en- gage in pacific pursuits, all the inhabitants having been employed by Sonni ‘Ali in warlike purposes.
Altogether it does not appear exag-
gerated what A’hmed Baba says of this distinguished king, that “ God made use of his service in order to save the true believers (in Negro- land) from their ‘sufferings and calamities.”
Immediately after his accession to
power, A’skia sent for his brother ‘Omar from Biru or WalAata, which place already at this time had so totally merged into a Songhay province, that the Songhay idiom, at least in the higher circles, where a traveller like Leo was likely to move about, had becomethe com- mon language. ‘ Questa gente,” says Leo of the inhabitants of Wa- lata, ‘usa un certo linguaggio det- to Sungai.”f A/’skia then made his brother, in whom he had im- plicit confidence, ‘Timbutu-koy in the place of { Al Mukhtar ben Mohammed Nasr.
He then sent his other brother, like-
AD. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
The Songhay language extends as far as Walata and Jinni.
end of
1494 899
* The origin of this name, as stated by A’hmed Bab4,fis not very probable. But although it is true that “ A/skia ” was rather a royal title, which the founder of this new dynasty adopted, nevertheless, in Negroland, the popular name of this great ruler and conqueror is nothing but A’skia, and that was the reason why Leo calls him onl by this name, changing it into Ischia. y
+ Leo, |. vi. c.2. p. 138., ed. Venezia, 1837.
ft These words Mr. Ralfs (p. 533.) has neglected to translate.
QQ 3
598 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
wise called Omar, but with the sur- name Kumzaghu*, the fereng of Ktirmina who conquered the im- portant town of Zagha, and made war against “ Bukr ma,” (Burku- ma?), evidently a Mandingo go- vernor of the empire of Melle. He also, according to Leo, im- prisoned the ruler of Jinni, whom Sonni ‘Ali had allowed to reside in his own capital, and kept him during his lifetime a prisoner in Gagho, ruling Jinni by means of a governor.
Having thus not only consolidated, but even extended, the empire, the first A’skié undertook a pilgrimage to Mekka, which brought him into contact with the princes and learned men of the East, and made him more famous, than any other of his enterprises. The most distin- guished men of all the tribes under his command accompanied him on his great journey, especially the great Weli Mur Saleh Jur, a Wa- koré, native of the town of Tutalna f in the province of Tindirma, and 1500 armed men, 1000 on foot and 500 on horseback. He took with him 300,000 mithkal, but behaved so
_ generously that, according to Leo,
he was obliged to contract a loan
of 150,000 mithk4l more. He had an official investiture performed by the Sherif el “Abasi, as Khalifa in Songhay, and took the advice of the most learned and pious men, such as Jelal e’ Soytiti. He also
1495 | 901 | Joio IL, the indefatigable king Safer, of Portugal, died, whose spirit o Be 902 found no repose but in pro- moting the welfare of his people, and in distant dis- | coveries, especially in Africa. | As we learn from an occa- | sional hint in De Barrosf, _ this king had already sent an ambassador to the Mansa of | Melle. :
* Whether this ‘Om Ar received his surname Kumzaghu only from the circumstance of his taking the town of Zagha, ‘we cannot decide; but there is no doubt that he must be distinguished from the other brother of the same name, else A’hmed Baba would be guilty of an absurdity. We never find that a governor of the important province of Kurmina was at the same time Tumbutu-koy ; and the difference of the two individuals is quite evident, for ‘Omar pom eety died 926, and ‘Omar, son of BU Bakr, — that is to say, his other brother, — the TGmbutu-koy, 928. See
urther down. a
+ De Barros, i. 1. iii. c. 12, p. 257, dizendo (the later Mansa, in Manuel’s time) que havia em boa ventura ser lhe
eaviado este mensajeiro, porque a seu av6 que tinha a seu proprio nome fora, enviado otro mensajeiro do otro Rey D. Joao de Portugal. 4
t Tukalna, as the name is given by Ralfs, is wrong.
dr ws
a Pe
=.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY.
599
Songhay.
founded a charitable institution in Mekka for the people of Tekrur.
Haj Mohammed <A/’ski4 returned to Gagho.
| 4} Mohammed undertakes an ex- | edition, or a formal jihad, against Nasi the sultan of Mési, having sent the Weli Mur Saleh Nur as an ambassador to that king, in order to induce him to embrace Is- lam. But the Mési people having consulted the souls of their an- cestors, and refused to change their native worship, A’skia de- vastated their country. He came back from this expedition in Ra- madhan. He (himself or ‘Othman)
A.D.
August
1497-8
1498-9
_ then conquered the country of | 1499-
Baghena, the ancient seat of the empire of Ghanah, or Ghanata, the king of which had already been made tributary by Sonni ‘Ali, and slew the Féllani (Pullo) chieftain Damba-dumbi. We therefore at this early period find the Fulbe very powerful, as well in the south (Gurma, see p.596.) as in the north-west; while from De Barros we learn, that their power in the south-west was not less great. The Songhay king made an ex- pedition against Abairu (?), and deprived him of his kingdom.”
1500
1500
|A’skia then sent his brother ‘Om4r*} 1501
Kumzaghu against Melle, where the Kaid Kam Fati Kalliyen seems to have exercised at the time su- preme power; but ‘Omar not feel- ing himself strong enough to take the town of Zillen, or Zalna, where the court of Melle seems to have been, he sent for the king himself, encamping meanwhile in a place called Tanfaren, a little to the east from Zillen. Haj Moham- |
A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Dhi el Hajja, 903
904
905 |
906
907
* In the Gibla, the south-western district of the great desert, there is a tribe of the name Weldd Abéri,
QQ 4
600 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
. med A’skia then came in person, vanquished the kaid, destroyed the town, together with the palace of the king of Melle, and sold the inhabitants into slavery.
According to Leo*, A’skia made the whole of Melle tributary, laying such a heavy tribute upon that ruler that he entirely tied his hands. Nevertheless the capital of Melle still at that time was a flourishing place, and the largest town in Negroland, containing about 6000 dwellings. Perhaps this is the town called Zillen, or Zalna, by A’hmed Baba.
In the same year 114j Mohammed ‘Alf Ghajidéni, the powerful A’ski4 sent an expedition against king of Bérnu (see Vol. II. Bargt, or, as it is more justly p- 644), about this time pro- | called, Barbuy, the country en- bably undertook hisexpedition | — closed between Gurma, Yoruba to the south-western frontier | and the great river. ‘The in- of his large empire, beyond | habitants of this country being the Kwara, in order to pro-
a very warlike set of people, tect it against the encroach- | the struggle appears to have been ments of his powerful con- | very violent ; and although A’hmed temporary the Songhay king.
Bab& does not seem to intimate the whole of the result, yet it is clear, from the fact that the Son- ghay king was occupied with Bargt for the next four or five years, that he met with great re- sistance; this is also clearly in- dicated by traditions still extant in that country, the name Bargu being generally derived from the Songhay words five (go), horses (beri); “five horses” being the only remnant of an army led into the country by the Songhay king. Such a state of things is also clearly in- dicated by another document.{ The Songhay king made an expe-| 1506 912
* This is probably the meaning of the words of Leo, 1. vii.c. 4. i + This true native form of the name of that country A’hmed Baba gives himself. At the time when I made the excerpts J did not identify the name, having misspelt it Barka; but the form Barb@ is quite decisive. a { Appendix to Clapperton’s Second Expedition, p. 338.: — ‘‘ And it is recorded that, when the equitable Prince Hadgi Mohammed Allah-kaja ( A’skia) ruled over this province, he could gain no advantage over them.” a
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 601
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
dition against Kelinbut. The fol- lowing years no expedition seems to have been undertaken, the A’ski4 being busy with the internal affairs of his extensive empire which ex- tended from Kebbi in the east as far as the present country of Kaarta, and from Bennendugu as far as Te- ghaza. It appears that he staid the greater part of this period near Timbuktu, where he was evidently when Leo visited this part of Africa, who thought Timbuktu to be his usual residence, but nevertheless was fully aware, although he did not clearly express it, that Gagho was his other residence — “ Questo signor fu preso dal detto Izchia e tenuto in Gdgo fino alla morte,” ]. vii. c. 3, at the end. The A/’skia staid in Kabara, “ the well known harbour,” when he heard of the learned man, the fakih Mahmud, having come to Gagho, and he immediately embarked and went there by water; for almost all the intercourse between Timbuktu and the whole western quarter on the one side, and the centre of the Songhay empire with its capital on the other, was along the river.
H4j Mohammed sends the Baku- | 1511 917 kurakoy ‘Ali Fulanu and Belgha Mohammed Kiri against Ma Futa* Kaital, the fereng of Baghena, who had revolted.
Haj Mohammed, always extending | 1512 918 his empire further westward, marched against a powerful chief- tain, Allaint Almatni Tindhar, and slew him in Zért. This is a highly interesting expedition, as
“VY 72 ip : : The name is remarkable; ‘‘ ma,” i i eS te A u is arkable; ‘‘ma,” a Mandingo word; it may belong to the title “‘ fereng,” as a sort of tautology. | ee mm) 2 or Dhelianke, to whom this founder of the new dynasty in Futa Toro belonged.
oes al : | It is not improbable that the name Allain expresses the national term Dhelian,
602 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
the results of it exercised a powerful influence as far as the coast, where the enterprising Por- tuguese were at that time esta- blishing their power. For it hap- pened just at the time that Kolli, Allain’s eldest son was absent on an expedition, and when he heard of the fate of his father he fled with his army to Futa, which at that time belonged to the king of Jolof, and endeavoured to assume the sovereign power, in which attempt he succeeded, by the slaughter of the king of Jolof. The country of Jolof thus became divided between Kolli (Kolli Salti [Sattigi ?] Tind- har) and Dtimala (Damil, a com- mon title, the Temala of the Por- tuguese), the most powerful of the governors of the former king of Jolof.
The Portuguese in the Senegal
quite surprised at the great flame of war (incendio di guerra) which at that time ravaged all the countries from east to west.*
Kolli founded a powerful Negro
dynasty, and was succeeded by his son Yurima, to whom succeeded Kalabi (Kolli Lab - be) Batara, a most excellent prince, celebrated on account of his piety and justice; then | | followed Kata, son of Yurima.
At the end of this year, the Songhay | 1513 919 |The Portuguese, under D’A- king marched against Katsena, and taide, take possession of returned from thence in the first Azemmur. 7 Rebi of the following year. This is an extraordinary short time for so distant an expedition, even if he had been residing in the eastern- most part of his empire at the time when he undertook it. Neverthe- less, if we can believe Leo, the A’skia conquered not only Katsena but also Géber (which already at that time had a very large capital and a good trade, and consider- able industry, especially in leather
* The following is the highly interesting account which we have received from De Barros (Asza, I. 1.3. ¢ 12, p. 258.) of this great commotion : — “ E nao somente per estes e per Pero d’ Evora, mas ainda per hum Mem Royz escudeiro de sua casa e per Pero de Astuniga seu mogo d’ esporas que elle levava por companheiro, mandou El Rey algunas vezes recados a El Rey de Tungubutu e ao mesmo Temald (Damil) que se chiamava Rey dos Fullos. O qual Temala nestes tiempos fol nas quellas partes hum incendio de guerra \evantandose da parte do Sol ex huma Comarca chamada Futa con tanto numero de gente que seccavam hum rio quando a elle chegavam ; e assiera esquivo e barbaro este acgoute d’ aquella gente paga que assolava quanto se lhe punha diante. E como con vesta ferocidade tinha feito grande damno emos amigos e servidores del Rey, principalmente ael Rey de Tungubutu, Mandi Mansa, Uli Mansa mandou Ihe per algunas vezes seus recados de amizade, e outros de rogo sobre os negocios da guerra que tinha com estes.” It is highly interesting to see how the course of affairs in this quarter confirms all that we know from other sources. Thus M-le Colonel Faidherbe, at present governor of the Senegal, in op- position to common tradition, which would have carried back the foundation of the new dynasty in Fiuta, which he well understood proceeded from the east, to the middle of the fourteenth century, arrives at the conclusion that it must have been established about the year 1500. Budletin de la Soc. Géogr., iv. p. 281.
a it
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 603
Songhay.
work), Zanfara, Zeezeg, Kand, and almost the whole of Hausa*; but it would almost appear to me as if Leo in this case had confounded A’skia with Kanta, the ruler of Kebbi.
About the end of this year the A’skia
marched against Al-‘Adalet, the king of A’gades, and returned from thence the following year, having driven out, as we know from other sources }, the Berber tribes, and transplanted there a good many of his own people, although the Songhay language may have been spoken there before this period. However, it is evident from Leo’s account {, who seems to know nothing of this expedition, that the king of A’gades paid tri- bute to A’skia already before this time. At all events this was the highest pitch of power to which not only Haj Mohammed himeelf, but the A’skidés in general, at- tained ; for, on his return from this expedition, Kanta, the governor of Leka, in the province of Kebbi, who owed him allegiance, and who had accompanied him in this war, demanded his share in the booty, which, probably, was very great, and not being satisfied rose against him and vanquished him in a great battle; after which he made himself independent of Songhay, and was successful, A’ski4, who marched against him the following year, being obliged to retrace his steps
ALD A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
The Hausa States become im- portant—Korérofa.
1514 | 920 |The Portuguese occupy Ted- nest.
1515 921
1516 922 |Kanta founds an independent kingdom in Kebbi. Starting from Birni-n-Dugeul in the province of Katsena, he took up his residence first in-Gungu, then in Surame, and finally in Léka.
1517 923 | Kanta vindicates his indepen- dence of Songhay.
* Leo heard this report evidently from merchants, and in a very exaggerated manner ; for A’hmed Baba would be
+ See Vol. I. p. 461. seq.
' t Leo, |. vii. c. 9.
guilty of inaccuracy beyond measure, if he had forgotten to mention a second expedition which Haj Mohammed, according to Leo’s account, undertook three years after the first ; nay, such an expedition is totally impossible, on account of the hostility of Kanta the ruler of Kebbi, who made himself -independent of Songhay the second year after the expedition to Katsena, and there was no road from Songhay to Kané except through Kebbi.
604 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
without having obtained the slight- est success. It is therefore next to impossible that A’skia achieved the conquest of the Hausa provinces, as described by Leo.
Haj Mohammed again visited the | 1518 924 western part of his empire, and on the 15th Ramadhan stayed in Timbuktu. The name Songhay, not mentioned by former authors, becomes con- spicuous, being employed as well by Leo as by De Barros.
The king resided again in Songhay | 1520 | 926 Proper, and was in Sankar, a place beyond Kukia, when he learnt the death of his beloved brother, ‘Omar Kumzaghu, to whom he was so much indebted for the stability of his rule. He then in- vested another brother named Y4hia,with the governor- or fereng- ship of Kurmina, which certainly was the most important province of the empire.
H4j Mohammed lost another brother, |1521-2] 928 ‘Omar the Tumbutu-koy (see p- 598.) ; and thus having been de- prived of his most faithful servants, and having passed the prime of life, became the plaything of his over- bearing sons, the intrigues taking a more open turn after some affair in Banku, or Bango, the character |1524-5} 931 of which is not quite clear.
At length affairs assumed such a seri- |1527-8| 934 ous character, that the heir-appar- ent, or Feréngmangha Haj Musa, the eldest son of the king, who had accompanied him on his pilgrim- age, threatened to kill him; so that the aged Mohammed fled to _ Tindirma, and placed himself under the protection of his brother Ya- hia. The latter then seems to
aS a Ue a inigs . & J
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 605
Songhay.
A.D. A.H. | Neighbouring Kingdoms,
have brought about some under- standing among the members of the royal family. For in the fol- lowing year we find the old king {1528-9} 935 again in Gagho, when Musa re- volted openly against his father, and went with some of his brothers to Kvukfa. Y4hia, the feréng of Kiirmina, being again requested by his brother to interfere be- tween him and his sons, came to Gagho, and was sent by the lat- ter to Kukia, but was openly attacked by the mutinous children, and murdered. Musa, then, seeing that his father was powerless, re- turned to Gagho, and towards the end of the year, on the great holi- day, forced him to abdicate after a reign of thirty-six years and six months. Nevertheless, he left him in his palace, while he himself stayed in his own house. Haj Moham- med A/skia, as A’hmed Baba says, was too great (or too mild) to rule a (turbulent) country like Songhay. That the extent of the empire, in its rime, was not exaggerated by the author of the history of Songhay, is clear from the account of Mulay A’hmed’s expedition.
A’skia Musa began his bloody and | 1529 935
7 restless reign by endeavouring to murder all his brothers, and pur- sued them to Ktrmina, where they had taken refuge under the protection of the governor of that province, Othman Jubabu, another son of Haj Mohammed; but he forced them all to decamp, to- gether with the governor of the province himself, as well as the governor of Banku, or Bango, and other great men. ‘The aged ‘Ali Fulanu, who had accompanied El Haj Mohammed on his pilgrimage, fled to Kand.*
-* In this instance also it is not certain whether the town of Kan6 be meant, or whether that name at the time attached only to the whole province.
606 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. Neighbouring Kingdoms. Misa, having returned to Gagho, | 1533 | 940 |'Abd el Kerim ben Maghili, continued the attempt to murder from Bu ‘Ali, in Taw4t, the
his remaining brothers, as far as he was able to lay his hands on them, while they on their part, endea- voured to rid themselves of their tormentor, so that he had not a mo- ment’s rest.
great apostle of Middle Ne- groland, where he is stated to have transplanted the power formerly grafted upon Son- ghay, is said to have died this. year. Ifthis be really the case,
as it would seem to be, a former passage in my work about this. distinguished man (Vol. IL. p.
At this period, the Portuguese sent presents to the king of Melle, who was reduced to the western provinces of his em- pire, and therefore is now styled Mandi Mansa, and who then waged war with Temala (the Damil, rey dos Fullos;. see above). The Portuguese endeavoured also to open com- munication with the king of Mési (el rey dos Moses), of whose power they had re- ceived reports, but from the wrong side, namely, from Be- nin, The king of Mési was then waging war with the Mandi Mansa.
1534 941
In this sanguinary reign, it is cheer- ing to find that the Portuguese sent an embassy, among the other princes in the interior, also to a nephew of this Musa, king of Songhay*, from the side of Mina, or Elmina, their colony on the gold coast.
Mtisa died. Mohammed Bankoré,
son of ‘Omar Kumzaghu, was
1535-6, 942
* ‘¢ Tamben per via da fortaleza da Mina mandarao a Mohamed bem Manzugue e neto de Mussa Rey de Songo, que de huma Cidade das mais populosas daquella grao Provincia a que nos communemente chamamos Mandinga, a qual Cidade jaz no parallelo do Cabo das palmas, mettida dentro no sertao per distancia de cento e quarenta leguas, segundo a setuacao das taboas da nossa Geografia.”— De Barros, Asza,1. c. p. 259. That nephew of Misa, therefore, was evidently governor of the former principal province of the kingdom of Melle. The king, says De Barros further on, was not a little surprised at the king of Portugal sending him presents. It is very probable that among these presents were the articles of Portuguese workmanship mentioned by the author of the memoir to Philip II. on the power of Mulay e’ Dhéhebi, as found by the Maroccains among the spoil of Gagho. down.
See lower —
76.) has to be altered a little. - ,
7 ‘
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 607
Songhay.
made A’sk{a in a place called Man- sur. This cruel prince drove the old Haj Mohammed from the royal palace, where even Musa had left him, and imprisoned him in a place called Kankaka. Mohammed Ban- koré was a warlike prince, but he was not successful in his career, nor was he a favourite with the people. He marched against Kanta, but was totally routed at a place called Wen-termasa (a Berber name), and fled most ingloriously, having a very narrow escape through the waters of the Niger.
|He then marched against Gurma, | and sent M4ri Tamiza, the feréng of Dendi, against the enemy. But the latter having laid in chains all the leading men in the army, de- posed the king, 2nd Dhu el Kada (12th April), and installed Isméaail, a son of Haj Mohammed, on the throne as A’skia.
IsmAail brought his aged father from | Kankaka back to Gagho, where he died in the night preceding the ‘Aid el Fotr, and was buried in the great mosque. In the same year Ismail went to Dire.*
| A’skia Ism4ail then marched against | the Bakaboki (the chief of Bojjo ?), _ in Gurma, and killed and carried into slavery a great many people ; so that a slave in Gagho fetched not more than 300 shells.
| A’skia Ism4ail, a very energetic and much respected king, unfortunately reigned too short a period, and died after a reign of not more than two years, nine months, six
1536
1537
A.H.
943
944
945
946
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
The power of the kingdom
of Kebbi more firmly esta- blished. But after the death of the first Kanta, the founder of the dynasty, his two sons, Kanna and Himaddu, fight for the royal power, when Hi- maddu is said to have driven back the former with the aid of the Fulbe.
* This phrase, 0, I Ce ya) Laas 3 has not been translated by Mr. Ralfs.
608 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. ’ AH. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
| uy
days, in the month of Rejeb (Oc- tober or November).
The army which had just marched out upon an expedition,made Is-hak, another son of H4j Mohammed, A’skia, on the 16th Shaban. The new king proved a very stern master, the severest king who ruled over Songhay; but he made himself also respected by his enemies, even in the most distant quarter. ‘Thus, in the]} 1542 949 third year of his reign, he marched against Yaghaba (not Baghaba), the most distant place of the sultans of Banduk, or Bennendigu, on the remotest south-westerly branch of | 1544 951 | About this time Mohammed, the
the Niger; and two years later ruler of Bérnu, fought a ce- he waged war on the opposite lebrated and sanguinary battle | side of his vast dominions against with the king of Kebbi, pro- | Kukurkab (Kokoy-Kabi?)*, in the | bably Témo, who founded | — territory of Dendi. here a new and large capital, | Birni-n-Kebbi. (See Vol. IL. |
p- 646.)
In the course of this year I’s -hak sent | 1545 952 his brother Daud, the feréng of Kiuirmina, against Melle. The Sul- tan (Mansa) of Melle, who, having been reduced to the position of a tributary chief by the great Haj Mo- hammed, seems to have conceived the hope of making himself again independent under his successors, left his palace and fled, and Datid remained for seven days in the capital defiling the honour of the royal palace in the grossest manner.
At the same time, this energetic | 1549 956 Songhay king showed his power to Miulay A’hmed, the powerful ruler of Morocco, who, looking about for a fresh source of strength, cast
* There seems little doubt that the name K4bi is here implied, although A’hmed Baba himself uses the form — Kebbi, and he adds that it was the name of a locality, ‘‘ makan ;” but the author had very little knowledge of these — easterly regions, and, probably, did not know the relation of Kebbi—which he generally designates as the territory — of Kanta — to Dendi, the name commonly given to this province east of the Niger.
' pebeyerestne
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 609
Songhay.
a longing eye on Negroland, and requested the A’skia to deliver up to him the salt mines of Teghaza ; whereupon I’s-hak sent an army of 2000 Tawarek to Dara, who plundered the market of the Benu A/’saj without shedding any blood. But the Songhay king was destined soon to succumb; and, having fallen sick, died in Kuikia, where he had gone in the beginning of that year, on the 24th Safar (24th March), after areign of nine years and six months, having named, as his successor, Daud, then governor of Kurmina, who was fortunate enough to arrive before I’s-hak’s death.
David having ascended the throne in
Kukia one day before the death of I’s-hak, returned to Gégho on the Ist Rebi I. Datid was a very peaceable king, and undertook no expedition at all. He resided towards the end of his life a long time in Tindirma, the capital of the province of Ktrmina, where he had a palace and kept a large establishment. A’skiaé Daétid, who is said by the Imam e’ Tekriri, as cited by De Slane*, to have imi- tated the example of his father Haj Mohammed, died after a reign of nearly thirty-four (lunar) years.
El Haj, or El Haj Mohammed, then
ascended the throne, being the eldest son of Dazid, and named after his grandfather, whom he is said to have equalled in the qualities of bravery and patient endurance, although he remained far behind in success, and was plunged from the beginning of his reign in civil war, which began to rage the very day of his accession to the throne, the
A.D. A.H. 1553 960 1582 990
ee
Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Sidi ‘Omar e’ Sheikh, the great ancestor of the family of El Bakay, died in the district Gidi or Igfdi.
* De Slane, in “‘ La Revue Africaine,”’ i. p. 291.
wou. IV.
RR
610 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. ‘ Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Feréng Mohammed Bankoré pre- paring to oppose him; but fortu- nately the latter was induced by the Faki Mohammed, the Kadhi
of Timbitiktu, to give up his pre- tensions, in order to apply himself to study. He was then arrested and lodged in the state prison in Kantu.
Safer.
Then El Hadi, son of A’skia Daud, | 1584 992
and brother of El Haj, whom, as the most faithful, the king had en- trusted with the government of Kiuirmina, revolted, left Tindirma, and marched against the capital, GAagho. He even succeeded in en- tering the town in the night before the 4th Rebi-el-awel, clad in a coat of mail, and preceded by a trumpet, drum, and other insignia of royal power; while the A’skia, who at the time was very weak and sick, was seized with fear of losing his throne; but through the aid of Hiki, the go- vernor of the powerful province of Dendi, the revolt was overcome. El] Hadi was thrown into the state prison at Kantu, and all his ad- herents were severely punished.
While the empire was thus under- Together with Moshi, the ruler mined by intestine civil wars, the of Buia, on the Niger, is men- great enemy who was to crush it tioned by A’hmed Baba under from without approached from the this reign as a powerful king. north; but this time the danger The power of Kebbi, there-
passed by. Mulay Hamed, or fore, probably had begun to A’hmed, in order to learn the real decline.
state of affairs in Tekrtr, and especially in Songhay, whose power could not fail to attract his attention, sent an embassy with costly presents ; but the A’skia re- ceived the messengers kindly, and sent a more valuable present in return, among other articles 80 eunuchs. But shortly after the departure of this embassy, the rumour spread of Mulay Hamed having sent a large army; and
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 611
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
this report was soon confirmed.
The emperor of Morocco sent a
very numerous host, said to be |
20,000 * strong, in the direction of |
Wadan, at that time the general |
caravan road, with the order to
conquer all the places along the
river (the Senegal and Niger, pro-
bably, regarded together)f, and
thus to proceed towards Timbuktu, |
—an order which clearly shows the |
immense extent of the Songhay
empire, even at that time: andthe
Imam e’ Tekritri{ distinctly states
that, even at the time of its down-
fall, it comprised a region of six
months in extent. But this time also
the danger passed by ; the numbers
of the army themselves causing its
ruin, in consequence of hunger and
thirst. In order to take at least a
slight revenge, the Sultan of Mo- :
rocco then sent an officer with a
small troop of musketeers, to take
possession of the salt-mines of Te- | | |
ghaza, which at that time supplied the whole of Western Negroland with that necessary article§, and thus to deprive the inhabitants of Songhay of it.|| It was in the month of Shawal (September) that the news reached Gagho that all inter- course with those salt-mines had been cut off. It was then that people went and dug salt in Tao- dénni, and other places.§[
Re mt aE Ie CS Oe ane
\
* The number may not be much exaggerated. It was probably this example which taught Malay Hamed that a
small well disciplined army was by far more useful for such a purpose than an undisciplined host. + Most probably the people in Morocco had a very confused idea of the relation of the two great rivers of that region, the Senegal and Niger, with the ocean ; and both rivers are here meant when Muilay Hamed ordered the army
ft Revue Africaine, i. 291.
§ The place Teghaza seems to have had a considerable population at that time, which shows the importance of
this traffic. See Caillié, ii. p. 128. || We see from this report the remarkable fact that the whole of Songhay at that time was provided from
Teghaza, while we have seen from E] Bekri’s account that in the eleventh century Songhay Proper was supplied from the mines of Tattek. The words of Baba A’hmed Sls ye weal, not translated by Mr. Ralfs, can
be only understood by him who has travelled in Negroland, and who knows what a precious article salt is in many regions, and what it is ‘‘ to be deprived of salt.”’ : ‘ q The translation of this passage by Mr. Ralfs (p. 543.) is rather defective. RR 2
612 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay.
While the danger was gathering from without, a new intestine war broke out, which does not appear to testify to the great courage and energy for which A’hmed Baba praises this A’skia.
For in the last month of this year, the brothers of El Haj A’skia re- volted, and brought Mohammed Bana, another of the numerous sons of Datid, with them from Kara
Gos ?) to Gagho, and, deposing El
H4j, installed the former in his place as A’skiaé, on the 4th Mo- harrem. El Haj, probably, not- withstanding his original bravery and energy, was suffering from disease all the time of his reign. He died (a natural death ap- parently) a few days after his de- position, having reigned four years and five months.
Immediately after the accession of Mohammed Bana to the throne, a new conspiracy was formed, issuing from the state prisoners in Kantu, especially the two pretenders, El Hadi and Mohammed Bankoré, and aiming at the installation of Nth, another son of Daud, the Farma of Bantal; but the rebellion was suc- cessfully suppressed, most of the conspirators killed, and Nuh, to- gether with his brother Mustapha, whom El Haj had designated as his successor (Feréngmangha), laid in chains, and imprisoned in the province of Dendi.
The Balma, Mohammed e’ Sadik, son of A’skia David, having punished the oppressive governor of Kabara, and vanquished his own brother Saleh, the Feréng of Kurmina (24
% Baba A’hmed is here very distinct, stating expressly, apparently in order to contradict current reports,— “ and they dug (began to dig) here in Taddénni the salt at this period” Can sel) lingo and they gave up [the salt
mines of] Teghaxa this time, or on this occasion). The latter words have not been translated by Mr. Ralfs at all.
A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
1586 994 | The salt-mines of Tegh4za shut, and those of Taddénni opened, on this occasion.*
1587 995
1588 976
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 613
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Rebi II.), and being joined by the troops of the latter, and by many other bodies of the great army of the West, the Feréng of Baghena, Mansa, the Hémborikoy, and others, left Kabara on the Ist JumAéda. | | A’skia Mohammed Bana marched | |
|
out of Gagho on the 12th, in order to meet the rebel, but died the same | day, either from the effects of wrath, or in consequence of the heat of the weather and his own corpulency. He reigned one year, four months, and eight days.
The day following the death of Mo- hammed Bana, the army having re- entered the town of Gacho, I’s-hak, another son of David, ascended the throneasA/skia. But the Pretender, having been raised by his troops on his way to Gagho, to the dignity of A’skia, pursued his march, while A’skia I’s-hak left his capital, when both armies met at a place called Kamba-Kiri, evidently only four days’* march from Gagho, where, after a violent struggle which lasted the whole day, the army of the Pretender was beaten, and he escaped towards Timbuktu. Great was the disappointment of the in- habitants of this town. They had celebrated the accession to power of their favourite, Mohammed e’ Sadik, with the greatest manifes- tations of joy, and had even im- prisoned, on the 21st, at his re- quest, the messenger who had an- nounced the accession of I’s-hak. On the 28th, there arrived the favour- ite as a fugitive, who brought them the account of the unfortunate battle, and, having plunged them into deep sorrow, continued his flicht, in company with the Hombo- rikoy, the Barakoy, by way of 'Tin- dirma, across the river to the other
_ * Eighteen days’ march with an army from Timbuktu, nine days for a single horseman on flight. RR 3
614 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
side. He was, however, overtaken, and confined in the state prison at Kantu, where he was killed, to- gether with the Barakoy ; as were also the Ttumbutu-koy and the Vméshaghenkoy. Of course the inhabitants of Timbuktu, having so openly favoured the proceedings of the Pretender, were severely punished, anda new Tumbutukoy, Al Hasan, the last during the Songhay period, anda new I’mosha- ghenkoy, were installed. A/skia I’s-hak likewise installed new go- vernors of Banku, Bal, and Kur- mina, and confirmed others in their provinces.
| Having recovered from the severe |1588-9| 997 shock inflicted upon the empire by this rebellion, A’sk14 I’s-hak under- | took an expedition against Naman- dtigu, evidently the place touched f | at by myself on my road to Tim- buktu, inhabited by pagans of the Gurma tribe, and the following year he undertook an expedition | against some other part of Gurma*, | - - | 998-999 | —namely Tinfiri. Having thus had some respite, and consolidated his empire, he planned an expedition against Kala, the province to the north of Jinni, which it would seem had been subjected to the former A’skia; but when about to undertake this expedition into the | furthest parts of his empire, he | heard of the arrival? of the Ma- halla of the Bash4 Jédar, a valiant eunuch of Mulay Hamed, the em- peror of Morocco, with an army of 3600 musketeers, in 174 divisions of 20 each besides the officers { ; and he
* The name Gurma seems to be employed here quite in a general sense.
+ It is remarkable that Baba A’hmed does not intimate at all by what road the Basha arrived.
~ That Joédar was a eunuch, and a native of Almeria, we learn from a Spanish source, a paper written the — 16th of October, 1648, by an unknown author, in ‘‘ Papeles Curiosas,”’ of the Egerton Collection, n. 10,262, p. 285.2 — ** Aquel valeroso Eunuco renegado natural de Almeria ;”’ and further on, ‘‘ Esta conquista hizo el famoso Jaudar, que fue celebre en Berberia como uno de los Ge la fama.”
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 615
Songhay. JN), A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
met him on the battle-field on the
18th Jumad IL., but fled before him. Jédar remained only seventeen days
in Gagho, when the Khatib Mah-
mud behaved in a very hostile
manner towards the strangers.
On visiting the palace of the A’ski4,
in the presence of witnesses, he
found it not equal to his expec-
tation, and accepted the conditions
of I’s-hak, who offered to give him
1000 slaves and 100,000 mithkaél
of gold, if he gave up the con-
quered country. The Basha, al-
though he was not authorized to
agree upon these conditions him-
self, consented to write an ac-
count of them to. his liege lord,
and return meanwhile to Tim-
buktu. He therefore wrote to
Mulay Hamed, in conjunction with
the Kaid A’hmed ben el Haddad,
adding at the same time, in order to
show his master that the conquered
country was not worth a great deal,
that the dwelling of the Sheikh El
Haram (a very inferior personage)
in Morocco excelled by far the pa-
lace of the A’skiaé. But the am-
bitious Mulay Hamed, the friend
of Philip II., who, in following the
example of his friend the mighty
prince of Europe, contemplated the conquest of new regions, was filled
with wrath at the receipt of the
despatches of his officer Jédar, de-
posed him on the spot, and sent
the Basha Mahmtid ben Zarkub,
accompanied by 80 musketeers,
with instructions to undertake the
command of the army, and drive
A/skia I’s-hak out of Sudan. Meanwhile Jédar having arrived at
Mése- or Bose-Bango (the same
creek of the great river where I was encamped for some time) on the last day of Jumada II., remained en- camped for thirty-five days, from | the lst Rejeb till the 6th Shaban,
RR 4
616 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay, A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
outside the town of Timbiuktu*, when the term fixed for the return of his courier from Morocco having elapsed, he well saw that all was not right, and that his master was not content with his proceedings. He therefore entered the town with his soldiers, chose for himself the quarter of the Ghadamsfyin, between the gate leading to Ka- bara and the market, as the most densely inhabited quarter, and as containing the largest houses, for the purpose of erecting there a kasbah, driving the inhabitants out of their dwellings by force. It also seems, from another passage of A’hmed Baba, that the Ruma shut all the gates of the town with the exception of the gate leading to Kabara, the consequence of which was that all the people, in order to enter the town or to go out of it, had to pass through or under the kasbah, so that the whole traffic and all the inter- course could easily be overawed by a limited garrison.
bE RE ae Be, SOT Ls
On Friday, the 26th Shawl, the new Basha Mahmud arrived in Timbuktu, accompanied by the two kaid’s, ‘Abd el ‘Aalf and Ham Ba- raka, and deposed Jdédar, reproach- ing him bitterly for not having pur- sued the king I’s-hak; but Jddar excused himself by pleading that he had no boats at his disposition. The first thing therefore which the Basha Mahmud had to do was to procure boats, the inspector of the harbour having fled with the whole fleet in the direction of Banku, or Bengu. It was on this occasion that all the trees in the town were cut down.
On the 20th Dhi ’1 Kada, the Basha |
* Journ. Leip. Oriental Soc., ix. p, 54%
ae
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 617
Songhay. A.D.
A.H. | Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Mahmid left Timbuktu with the whole of his army, taking the ex- basha Jddar with him, and in- stalling in the government of the town the kaid El Mustapha and the emir Ham from WaAdi Dara. Having kept the great festival near the town in a place called Sihank (?), he marched against I’s-hak, who approached with his army to make a last struggle for his kingdom and the independence of his country. But although the A’skia seems to have been not totally devoid of energy, he could not contend against that terrible weapon which spread devastation from a great distance, for the Songhay do not seem to have pos- sessed a single musket; and it is not impossible that the Moroc- cains had some small field pieces *, while the Songhay did not even know how to use the one small} 1591 999 cannon which the Portuguese had once made them a present of, and which the Basha afterwards found in Gagho. The consequence was, that in the battle which ensued on Monday the 25th Dhi-el Hijje, V’s-hak and the Songhay were beaten, and the king fled on the road to Dendi, making a short stay in Kira-Kurma, and leaving behind him some officers, whom he ordered to make a stand in certain stations, especially the Bal- ma Mohammed Kagho, who had been wounded by a ball, and the Barakoy Buttu. To the latter he gave orders at the same time to make forays against the Fulldn, a fact of the highest importance, and which, combined with another
* This is not certain, although further on A’hmed Baba mentions eile, which Mr. Ralfs translates (p. 554.)
by ‘“‘-Geschiitz ;”’ but the common musket being called Eine by the Arabs in and near Timbuktu, it is not
quite certain whether the author means field pieces or matchlocks.
618 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
fact, which I shall soon bring for-
ward, shows how this remarkable The Fulbe or Fullan begin to tribe, which we have seen stirring play a prominent part in the in these regions already several history of this region.
years previously, as soon as they saw the established government endangered, broke out in order to make use of circumstances for establishing themselves firmly in the country.
A’skia I’s-hak wanted the Bara- koy to imprison the royal princes who were in his company at the time, in order to prevent their joining the enemy, but they es- caped; and he also endeavoured, in vain, to cause a diversion in his rear, by raising a revolt in Tim- baiktu, but his messenger was killed. The Basha Mahmud ben Zar- kuib pursued the king, and did not halt till he reached Kuik14, having, with him, according toA’hmed Baba, 174 divisions of musketeers, each of twenty men* ; sothat,iftheranks | were all filled, he had 3480 men, or, including the officers, about 3600 ; and these being all armed with matchlocks, there was certainly no army in Negroland able to resist them.+ Seeing that a numerous undisciplined army against a well disciplined and compact band, armed with such a destructive weapon, was only a burthen, the Songhay king seems to have thought that a band of choice men, even if small in numbers, was preferable, and he therefore sent Hiki Serkia, an officer of ac- knowledged bravery, with a body of 1200 of the best horsemen of his army, who had never fled be- fore an enemy, to attack the Basha. |
* In order to make out the whole numbers of the army of the Basha, we must add the garrison of Timbtktu, — which could certainly not be less than a couple of hundred men. = +a + It would be highly absurd to conclude, from what A’hmed Baba says of the strength of this army, that its © numbers made it so; for in numbers it was certainly a very small army for Negroland, where armies of from 30,000 to 50,000 men are a common occurrence, and the Imam e’ Tekriri says that the Songhay king had an — army of 140,000 men. Revue Africaine, 1. c. a
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 619
Songhay.
A.D. A.H. | Neighbouring Kingdoms.
But the fate of Songhay was de- cided; treachery and disunion still further impaired the power which, even if well kept together, would still have had great difli- culty in resisting such an enemy. When therefore that very body of cavalry rendered homage to the -Balma Mohammed Kacho,in the be- {1591-2} 1000 |The tribe of the Erhd4mena
ginning of the last year of the tenth becomes powerful in the west. century of the Hejra, and made The Zoghoran or Jawambe con- him A’skia, I’s-hak seeing ’ that, quer great portions of the
all was lost, (from Dendi, where he former Songhay country. staid at the time ?) took the direc- tion of Kebbi.* He was, however, obliged to retrace his steps, as the Kanta, the ruler of that kingdom, which at that period was still enjoy- ing very great power,—afraid pro- bably of drawing upon himself the revenge of the dreaded foreign foe, who with the thunder of his mus- ketry was disturbing the repose of Negroland ; or, moved by that an- cient hatred which, since the expe- dition to A’gades, existed between the Songhay and the inhabitants of Kebbi, —refused him admission into his dominions. I’s-hak there- forere crossed the river, and went to Téraf, where his last friends took leave of him. Even the inhabitants of this very place, who have pre- served their independence till the present day, were not able, or were | not inclined, to defend their liege | lord. ‘There they separated, and | bade each other farewell. The king wept, and they (the courtiers) wept, and it was the last time that they saw each other.” ‘There was certainly a strong reason for weep- ing over the fate of Songhay.
i] * Baba A’hmed writes this name exactly as it is pronounced, , GS while the name Kabi is never used, but Pax: must have been formerly used, as is evident, from the form Kabawa. See page 201. LANG,
Wi (p. 553.), not Tara. There is no doubt that the well-known Songhay town of that name (Vol. IV. Ap. V.) is meant.
620 | APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
That splendid empire, which a few years back had extended from the middle of Hausa as far as the ocean, and from Mési as. far as TawAt, was gone, its king an exile and fugitive from his native land, deserted by his friends and nearest relations, had to seek refuge with his very enemies. Driven back from the Mohammedans in Kebbi, he now turned towards the pagans of Gurma, and those very inhabit- ants of Tinfiri upon whom he had made war two years before; and, indeed, the pagans were more mer- ciful than the Mohammedans, and forgot their recent wrong sooner than the latter their old one; but probably the ex-king excited their fear; and, after having resided there some time, he was slain, to- gether with his son and all his followers, in the month of Ju- mada the second.
Meanwhile there seemed to be still a slight prospect for the pretender Mohammed Kazgho to save at least part of the empire, as all that remained of wealth and authority in Songhay gathered round him to do him homage; but even now the ancient family discord pre- vailed ; and while he strengthened himself by some. of his brothers, whom he liberated from prison, especially Nuh, the former go- vernor of Bantal, others among his brothers, sons of D&ud, fled to the enemy, and, being well re- ceived, dragged after them a great many of the most influential men of the army. After this, Moham- med Kagho was induced by treachery to throw himself upon the mercy of the Basha, from whom he received the assurance that he had nothing to fear ; but he was laid in chains, and soon after executed.
The Basha Mahmud, although he
ae
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 621
Songhay. AWD:
A.H. | Neighbouring Kingdoms.
evidently governed the country with a strong hand, nevertheless, in the beginning at least, thought it more prudent to keep up a certain national form, and con- ferred the dignity of A’skiaé upon the Barakoy Bultu; but the latter soon found it better to provide for his own safety by a speedy flight, and the Basha then gave the hollow title of A’skié to Slimén ben A’skiaé Datid, who had been the first to put himself under his protection.
The Basha then went to pursue Nuh, formerly governor of Bantal, who, having been liberated from his prison by Mohammed Kagho, returned to Dendi, that outlying and important province of Son- ghay, as soon as he saw his pro- tector fail, and declared himself A’skia in Dendi; but even be- yond the Niger he seemed not to be safe; such was the remarkable vigour of this small Moroccain army, and the energy of its leader, under the auspices of that as- piring genius Mulay Hamed. On the frontier of Dendi, the Moroc- cain musketeers, within hearing of the subjects of Kanta, fought a bat- tle with this last germ of Songhay independence, and vanquished A’skia Ntih even there; and the Basha pursued the fugitive prince without relaxation from place to place for full two years, fighting repeated battles with him. Nay, he even built a fortress or kasbah in Kalna (?*), and placed there a garrison of 200 musketeers under the Kaid ‘Omar, as if he intended
* ves Hy: According to the writer, whose interesting account Macguckin de Slane has published in the
“ Revue Africaine,” i. n. 4. p.296., the authority of Manstir extended as far as Kano: nay, even the ruler of B6rnu is said to have made his subjection ; but the latter assertion is very improbable, the then ruler of B6rnu being none else than the warlike and energetic Edris A/lawoma. It is remarkable, however, that that author mentions Kané without saying anything about Kebbi, which was the neighbouring kingdom, intervening between Songhay and Kano, and at that time very powerful.
622 APPENDIX IX.
i
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
to hold possession for ever of this distant province for his master in Morocco. This isa highly interest- ing fact. But a small spark of native independence nevertheless remained behind in this province, from whence the Morocceains, after the first energetic impulse was gone, were forced to fall back. While the Basha himself was thus waging relentless war against the nucleus and the eastern part of the Songhay empire, the conquest and destruction of national in- dependence was going on no less in the west. ‘The great centre of national feeling and of independent spirit in that quarter was Timbuktu, a town almost enjoying therank ofa separate capital, on account of the greater amount of Mohammedan learning therein concentrated. It - was on account of this feeling of independence, probably, that the inhabitants would not bear the encroachments of the Kaéid el Mustapha upon their liberty, es- pecially as he wanted to fill from his own choice, after the death of Y4hia, the place of the Tumbutu- koy, or Tuimbutu-mangha, as he is here called, the office of the native governor. ‘Thus a bloody tumult arose in the town, when the Tarki chief Ausamba came to e the assistance of the distressed Kaid, probably from motives of plunder; and thus the whole town was consumed by flames, it being a dreadful day for the inhabi- tants. Nay, the enraged Katd, who had now got the upper hand, wanted to slaughter them all; but the Kaéid Mami succeeded in re- establishing peace between the in- habitants and El Miastapha; and quiet and comfort began to return; so that even those who had emi- grated again returned to their na- yr
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 623
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms,
tive homes. Even the inspector of the harbour, who had retired to the province of Banku, or Bengu, came back with thefleet. The com- munication therefore with Jinni and the region on the upper course of the river was reopened.
| Having then made a successful ex- pedition against the Zoghoran, who devastated the districts of Bara and Dirma, and inflicted upon them a most severe punishment, The Bambara appear as a con- the Kaid Mami went himself to quering race.
Jinni, which had suffered a great deal from the devastating incur- sions of the pagan Bambara, and took up his residence for a time in the palace of the Jinnikoy. Having
_ then installed ‘Abd-Allah ben ‘Oth~ man as governor of Jinni, and arranged matters in that distant place, he returned to Timbuktu. Samba Lamido (“‘l4amido” means “ governor’’), evidently a Pullo, in Danka, or Denga, devastated many of the places on the Ras el ma, and committed great havoc and blood- shed.
Thus the Moroccains had con- quered almost the whole of this extensive empire, from Dendi as far as, and even beyond, Jinni; for they even took possession of part | of Baghena, and conquered the whole province of Hombori, or, as it is called from its rocky cha- racter, Téndi or El Hajri, to the south of the river. Nay, they even conquered part of Tombo, the strong native kingdom in- closed between Hodmbori, Moési, Jinni, and Jimballa. They had their chief garrisons in Jinni, Timbiktu, Bamba, which on this account received the name Kas- bah, in Gagho, and Kalna in Dendi; and their chief strength consisted in intermarrying with the natives, and thus producing a distinct class
624 APPENDIX IX.
. \ A \ =
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
of people, who, as Erma, or Ruma, are distinguished to this very. day ; ‘ while the peculiar dialect of Son- ghay, which they speak, has been produced lately as a distinct lan- guage by M. Raffenel.* But these half-castes soon found all their interest in their new abode, and cared little for Morocco; so that the advantage which the latter eountry drew from this conquest was only of a very tran- sitory character. Certainly, there was some sort of order esta- blished; but there was no new organization, as it seems; the old forms being preserved, and soon becoming effete. On the whole, we cannot but admire the correctness of the following pas- sage of Baba A’hmed, who says: “Thus this Mahalla, at that period, found in Sudan (Songhay) one of those countries of the earth which are most favoured with comfort, plenty, peace, and prosperity everywhere; such was the working of the government of the Emir el Miuimenin, <A’s- kia el Haj Mohammed ben A’bi Bakr, in consequence of his justice and the power of his royal com- mand, which took full and pe- remptory effect, not only in his capital, but in all the districts of his whole empire, from the pro- vince of Dendi to the frontiers of Morocco, and from the territory of Bennendtgu (to the south of Jinni) as far as ‘Teghaza and Tawat. But in a moment all was changed, and peaceful repose was succeeded by a constant state of fear, comfort and security by trouble and suffering; ruin and misfortune took the place of pros- perity, and people began every-
* See p. 431. on
See 2
oe
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 625
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
where to fight against each other, and property and life became ex- posed to-constant danger ; and this ruin began, spread, increased, and at length prevailed throughout the whole region.”
Thus wrote old Bab&é Ah’med, who The kingdoms of Asianti and had himself lost everything in Dahome begin to become consequence of that paramount powerful. calamity which had befallen his native land, and who had been carried a prisoner to the country of the conqueror, till, owing to the unbounded respect which the enemy himself felt for the learning and sanctity of the prisoner, he was released, and allowed to re- turn to Songhay, where he seems to have finished his days, by en- deavouring to console himself, for the loss of all that was dear to him, with science, and in writing the history of his unfortunate native country.
Mulay Hamed el Mansur, the con- | 1603 | 1012 queror of Songhay, died.
_ | Zédan, his youngest son is proclaimed | 1607 | 1016 sultan; but has to sustain a long struggle against his brothers ‘Abd- Alla and Sheikh; and after an un- fortunate battle on the 8th Decem- ber, is driven beyond the limits of Morocco, when Sheikh is recog- nised for a limited period.
All these changes could not fail to exercise an immediate influence upon the government of Songhay, which had now become a province of Morocco.”
Mulay Zédan died. 1630 | 1040
Mulay ‘Abd el Melek succeeds him: is assassinated.
* T had no time to excerpt this latter part of Baba A’hmed’s history, but it is full of information with regard to this turbulent period.
VOL. IV. Pars paste)
626 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Miulay Walid succeeds him. 1635 | 1045-6
1637 1048 |The French make a settlement on the Senegal.
The history of Songhay, composed | 1640 | 1050 |The Tademékket are driven
by A’hmed Baba. out of their former seats and | Great inundation in Timbtktu, in deprived of their supremacy
consequence of the high level at- by the Awelimmid or A’we-
tained by the river. limmiden (the Lamta), who
formerly had been settled in Tgidi with the Welad Delém, with whom they were allied. Karidénne, the son of Shw4sh and of a wife from the tribe of the Tademékket, murdered the chief of the latter tribe, and drove them out of A’derar, when they went westward and implored the protection of the Basha, who assigned them new seats round about the backwaters between Tim- buktu and Giindam.
Miula4y A’hmed Sheikh succeeds to| 1647 | 1057 Miulay Walid; but is soon after killed in a revolt.
, Ro NP d diac ede Sitiartinatasatitiiaagieg RW
| Krém el H4ji usurps the throne: is |1654-5} 1665 soon after assassinated.
/Mul4y Mohammed, son of Mulay | 1664 | 1075-8 ‘Ali, the founder of the Filali dy- nasty, dethroned by his brother F’ Rashid: E’ Rashid takes pos- session of the town of Morocco,
Sidi ‘Alf, governor of Stis, takes re- | 1667 | 1078-9 | About this period the Welad fuge in Songhay *—a proof that Bille, in Tishit, possessed the garrison stationed there had great power. made themselves quite independent of Morocco at that time, not- withstanding the energetic rule of 11’ Rashid, who died 1672 | 1083
i
* Here again Jackson (Account of Morocco, p. 295.) has made a most erroneous statement, saying that Sidi ‘Ali escaped into Sdd4n, where the king of Bambara received him hospitably, so that ‘Ali was enabled to collect 8000 — black warriors, with whom he marched against Morocco ; and that these blacks were the means by which Ismaail — obtained influence in Timbuktu.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 627
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Mulay IsmAail succeeds him, but with- | 1672 1083 |Henntin, the son of Béhedal,
out being able to establish his power chief of the Welad Meb4rek, over all parts of the empire. It is received the investiture as very remarkable, that this king ruler of Baghena from Ismail.
formed a standing army of Negroes, especially Songhay, whom he mar- ried to Moroccain women, in order to rule his own subjects; just in the same manner as a body of Mo- roccain soldiers intermarrying with Negro women dominated Songhay. These were the “‘abid mta Sidi Bokhari.”*
Milay A’hmed, the nephew of Mu- | 1680 | 1091 lay Ismaail, governor of Dara and Sus, undertook an expedition into Stidan, with a large body of troops,
and although he lost 1500 men in About this time Séba, the mighty crossing the desert, brought back king of Géber, residing in arich spoil in gold and slaves, prin- Maghale, one day W. of Ché- cipally from a place called Tagaret, beri, makes warlike expedi- which it is not easy to identify, tions beyond the Kwara.
especially as it is said that he found there a king of Stidan. It is pro- bably a place in ‘aganet, most likely Tejfgja. There is no men- tion of a garrison dependent upen Morocco. In this same year Tim- buktu is said to have been con- quered by the Mandingoes (Bam- bara ?). Mar. 22,
Miulay A’hmed el Dhéhebi succeeds | 1727 | 1140-1 to the aged Ismaail. Although his reign lasted only two years, and he was constantly engaged in civil war, he is said to have made an ex- pedition into Sudan, from whence he brought back great treasures.} But this is evidently a confused statement, and probably refers to the deeds of his elder namesake, Miulay A’hmed el Dhéhebi.
* There is great confusion in an article concerning this subject in a letter addressed by Jacksonto Sir James Bankes, in the Proceedings of the African Association, vol. i. p.366. Here the annualtribute which Timbiiktu paid to this king is estimated at 5,000,000 dollars. ‘The same sort of exaggeration we find in all Jackson’s statements,
{ Even the very meritorious Graberg de Hemso, in his Specchio di Marocco, p. 269., repeats this statement. ss 2
628 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
8 ie
Milay ‘Abd-Alla succeeds to the} 1729 | 1142-3 throne. Constant civil war in the beginning of his reign.
1740 | 1158 |About this time the Kél-owf take possession of A’ir or A’s- ben.
Sidi Mohammed built Swéra or Mo- | 1757 | 1171-2 | Babari, powerful king in Gober. ador.
5 1770 | 1184 |‘Abd el K4der produces a reli- gious revolution in Puta, com- | bined, perhaps, with a reaction of the Wolof against the con- querors™, or rather of the race of the Tordédde,— the Wolof in- termixed with the Fulbe—a- gainst the element Malinké
| About this time Gdgo, which had hitherto been ruled by the Ruma, was conquered by the Tawarek tribe of the Awelimmiden.
Probably in consequence of this event, A’gades, having been de- prived of its commercial resources, begins to decline.
and Pillo. Sattigi Samba- lamu, the last of the Sdltana Deniankébe. The order of the succession is as follows : —
Chéro Soliman Bal,
Almame ‘Abdu,
Almame Mukhtar,
Almame Bu-bakr,
Almame Shiray,
Almame Ytsuf,
Almame Biran,
Almame Hammad,
Alm4me Makhmiudo,
Almame Mohammed el A-
min, son of Mohammed
Biraén.
The chief Kawa, who rules seventy | 1780 Venture collects his information years over the Awelimmiden, esta- from two Moroccain mer- blishes a powerful dominion on the chants. Tombo very power- north bank of the Niger (A/’usa). ful. Marka, the Aswanek, in Baghena. Kawar, the Fulbe,
in Masina. Timbuktu, according to the very | 1787 | 1202-3 | About this period falls the
doubtful statement of Shabinif, under the supremacy of Hausa. If this were true, it would be a very important fact; but it is evidently a mistake, A’usa being meant.
quarrel between the Sheikh El Mukhtar el kebir and the Weldd Bille, the former over- | throwing the latter with the | — assistance of the Méshedtf} — and the A’hel Zenaghi.
* See M. le Colonel Faidherbe, in Bulletin de la Soc. Géogr. 1850.
t Shabini, p. 12.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF THE HISTORY OF SONGHAY. 629
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
Timbuktu, under the sovereignty of |1803-4| 1218 | El Mukhtar opens friendship
Mansong, at that time king of with ‘Othman dan Fddie, the Bambara [very questionable].* Jihadi, who this year entered Professor Ritter — supposes the into open hostility against Moors to have been ejected at Bawa, the king of Gober, and that time, so that Timbaktu_ be- brought about that immense came an independent Negro town. revolution in the whole centre
of Negroland.
About this period a great strug- gle between the Awelimmiden and the Tademékket.
1804 1219 |The Filbe make Gandd, in Kebbi, the seat of their opera- tions.
Mungo Park navigates the Niger. {1805-6} 1220-1 |The Rumé, still powerful be- tween Sébi and Timbitktu, dominate the passage of the Niger.
1811 1226 | Sidi Mukhtar dies.
Mohammed or A’/hmed L.ebbo brings | 1816 | 1232-3 |Great and sanguinary battle
the religious banner from Gandé : between the Songhay, Ruma,
and gradually acquires the su- and Berabish on the one side,
premacy in Masina over the native and the Awelimmiden on the
chiefs. other, near the island Kur- kozay.
1817 | 1233 |Sheikh ‘Othman dan Fodie be- fore his death divides his ex- tensive dominions between his brother ‘Abd-Allahi and_ his son Bello, the former receiving all the western provinces along the Niger, with Gandé as his capital, the latter the south-easterly provinces, with Sdékoto.
Lebbo commences hostilities with | 1820 | 1236-7 | Constant war between Masina Mohammed Galaijo, the chief of and Bambara. Konari, vanquishes him, and forces him to retreat eastward.
* Proceedings of the African Association, ii. p. 322. + Ritter, Erdkunde von Afrika, p. 446. seq., especially from Sidi Hamed’s statement (p. 363.).
ss 3
630 APPENDIX IX.
Songhay. A.D. A.H. Neighbouring Kingdoms.
The Fiulbe of Masina occupy Tim- | 1826 | 1242-3 buktu in the beginning of the year. Major Laing left ‘En-Salah on the 10th of January ; was attacked, and almost slain, in Wadi Ahennet, on the 27th (?) ‘by a party of Ta- warek; was received very kindly by Sidi Mohammed, the son of Sidi Mukhtar, in the hillet e’ Sheikh Sidi Mukhtar, in A’zawad. Sidi Mohammed died in consequence of a contagious fever. Laing left this place about August 12th; arrived at Timbuktu, August 18th; being ordered out of the town by the Filbe, he left that place on Sep- tember 22nd, under the protection of A’/hmed Weled ‘Abéda; and was murdered by him and Hamed Weled Habib, probably on the
24th.
The Sheikh El Mukhtar, the son and | 1827 1243 |‘Abd-Allahi, the ruler of Gan- successor of Sidi Mohammed, set- dd, dies. Is succeeded by his tles in Timbuktu. son Mohammed Wani.
Caillié stays in Timbuktu from the | 1828 | 1244 20th April till the 3rd May.
The Fulbe enter Timbuktu with a} 1831 | 1247
stronger force.
1836 | 1250 | Khalilu succeeds to the empire of Gando.
The Tawarek conquer the Fulbe. 1844 | 1260 The Fulbe, under ‘Abd-Allahi, make
a great expedition along the Niger
as far as Burrum.
Lebbo dies. His son A’hmedu suc- | 1846 1262 ceeds him.
Sheikh El Mukhtar dies in the| 1848 | 1264 month Rebi el 4wel; El Bakay succeeds him. e
1851 | 1268-9 | The Kél-gerés kill e’ Nabegha, | —
the chief of the Awelimmi- | — den, at Tintalait. al
The young A’hmedu succeeds his |1852-3| 1269 father A’hmedu.
The Fulbe make a great expedition | 1855 | 1272-3 | The Tgwadaren opposed to the ig against Timbuktu. Awelfmmiden. iy.
631
APPENDIX X.
FRAGMENTS OF A METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.
Date.
1852. Nov. 25
2G 28
29
Hour of Day.
sunrise
1.30 p.m, sunrise sunset sunrise 1.15 p.m. sunset sunrise 1.30 sunset sunrise
sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunrise
1 p.m. sunset sunrise 1.30 p.m. sunset No observ 1.380 p.m. sunset sunrise
sunset sunrise 2 p.m.
Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit.
ation. 81:2 70°2 52
69°5 48 82°5
Remarks.
Outside Kikawa at the village Kali- luwa.
Heavy E. gale.
Heavy northerly
gale.
Ss
sunset sunrise
sunset sunrise sunset sunrise sunset
1.20 p.m. 1.45 p.m.
sunrise
1,30 p.m.
sunset
1.30 p.m.
sunset
Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit
72°30
No observ|ation.
1.30pm.
sunset sunrise sunrise
1.40 p.m.
sunrise
sunrise sunrise
1.30 p.m.
sunset
55 43 78 72
No observiation.
Remarks.
Foggy in the morn- ing.
Cold N.E. gale; very heavy.
Very cold, but no wind. Foggy morning.
Sky all this time cloudy.
632 APPENDIX X.
gi Peas Date Meus of ® 2 FE Remarks. Date. Hour of ® 5 ' Remarks. aye | SE ot bes 2) os Ag | ; 1853 | 1853. Jan Feb 1 | sunset 73 25 - os - | Inthe evening heat- 2. 7| sunrise §| 5a lightning towards 3 . to $| No observjation 26 0) (eames - |Cloudy, the sun 10 shining forth at 11 1,30p.m.| 85 | Fine morning. times; in the after- 12 | sunrise | 56 | Fine morning. noon the whole 1.30 p.m.| 87°5 sky towards the 13 | sunrise | 54 | Strong wind. S. overeast with 2 p.m. 75 thick clouds ; in 14 | sunrise | 54 the evening cool 1.30 p.m.} 76 and fresh as if 15 | sunrise | 51 | after a rain. Heat- 1.30 p.m.| 76 | lightning. 16 | sunrise | 55 ne 2 - « - | Windy. 17 sunrise 57 1.30 p.m. | 77 18 | sunrise | 55 March 1.50 p.m.| 77 3 1.15 p.m.| 95 19 sunrise 57 9 1.30 p.m.]} 96 2 p.m. 80 10 | sunrise | 66 sunset 715 | 11 | sunset 85 | Cloudy; heavy gale. 20 | sunrise | 56°5 12 | sunrise | 75 | Clear. 21 2 p.m. 86 | 2 p.m. 97 22 | sunrise | 56 | Cold wind. | sunset 92 |The evening and 2 p.m. 75 the following 23 | sunrise | 47:2 | night very sul- 1.30 p.m.| 75 try. 24 | sunrise | 50°4 18 | sunrise | 72 2 p.m. 80°2 | 1.30 pm. | 92 |The whole day 25 | sunrise | 50 | heavy gale. 1.45 p.m.} 85°7 | Fine day. | 14 | sunrise. 170 26 sunrise 48°5 | 2 p.m. 92 1.45 p.m.| &5°2 _ 15 | sunrise | 70 | Weather clear. 27 sunrise | 51°5 | sunset 88 1.50 p.m, | 89°4 i 16 sunrise 72 28 | sunrise | 59°6 | 2 p.m. 96 1.45 p.m. | 89°5 | 17 | sunrise | 72 | Fine morning. a i No observjation Ba a 31 | sunset 75 | 18 | sunrise | 72 | Fine morning.
2 p.m. 98°3 | 19 sunrise 75
Feb. 2 p.m. 99 1 | sunrise | 59°5 | sunset 92 2)| sunrise [58-60 ' 20 | sunrise | 72 | Very fine morn- to }| 1.30p.m.} 90 ing. 24 sunset 76 2 p.m. 98°5
Es ———ESESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSeSSSS SS LTTE |
isa
sunset sunset 1.15 p.m. sunrise
2 p.m. 1.30 p.m. 1,15 p.m. No observ 3 p.m.
3 p.m. sunrise sunrise 2.15 p.m. 5.30 p.m.
No observ
8 p.m.
1.30 p.m.
sunset sunrise 1.30 p.m.
sunrise 1.30 p.m.
sunset sunrise sunset sunrise 1.30 p.m. sunset
METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.
Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit.
92 90 101 74 106 103°5 100°5 ation. 100 103 79°5 81 103°5
ation.
94 775 90 72 105°7 89
Remarks.
Heavy gale, sky thickly overcast ; no rain with us,
but heat-lightning.
Sky thickly over- cast; thunder- storm the fol- lowing night, but no rain.
Sky thickly over- cast in the morn- ing ; a few drops of rain.
(Some rain early in the morning.)
In the cool hall of a clay house.
In shade outside.
Date.
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Hour of Day.
sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 1.30 p.m. sunset sunrise 1.30 2pm. sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m. 2.45 sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m.
sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunset
sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunset
sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise
Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit
633
Remarks.
Strong wind.
Sky towards W.
overcast with clouds. 4.30 p.m. a few
drops of rain. Sky overcast.
Cloudy in the after- noon.
Sky overcast.
Thunder - clouds from east, only a
634
Date.
1853. April
26
PAT
28 29
30
May
Hour of Day.
2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunset 2 p.m. sunset sunrise sunset sunrise 2 p.m.
sunset
sunrise 2 p.m. sunset
sunrise 2 p.m. sunset sunrise 2 p.m.
sunrise 2 p.m.
sunset sunrise 2 p.m.
sunset sunrise 2 p.m. sunset
APPENDIX X.
Bee
BOS
22 5 Remarks.
og
A & few drops of rain ; heat-lightning.
106
95
82
110
oe
110
98
83
98°5
85
110 | In the afternoon a thunder - storm rose from E. 5.15 p-m. heavy gale and a little rain.
92
82
109 | During the night
a7 heavy wind, but no rain.
80
106
98
§2
109 | During the night wind, heat-light- ning.
82
108 |In the afternoon sky cloudy; in the evening heat- lightning.
98
81°5
105 |Sky overcast and ‘cloudy, but no rain.
oF
83
106
98 |9 o’clock, p.m. all
on a sudden, a-
© eo
10
11
12
13
14 15 16 iy
18 19
20
aq 3
| to OD
Hour of $ Ae
Day. na
03 =
A & sunrise 77 2pm. /|101
No observjation sunrise 80 2p.m. |109 sunset 95 sunrise 84 2p.m. /|105 sunset 102
sunrise 82°5 2p.m. {104 sunset 86 sunrise 76 2pm. |103 sunrise 99
sunset 96°5 sunrise 75
No observation.
sunrise 80°5 sunset 93 sunrise 79
No observy|ation.
2 p.m.
sunset
104
92°3
Remarks.
heavy shower, lasting about one hour. Air windy.
refreshed ;
.| No rain.
A most oppressive and disagreeable evening.
About sunset thun- der-storm from N.; good fall of rain lasting about one hour, refresh- ing the air.
In the afternoon thunder - storm with very heavy rain.
In the afternoon clouds.
Clouds towards the S. (Gando.)
Fine cool morn- ing; in the after- noon _ thunder- storm, but rain.
In the afternoon| —
thunder - storm | — after | — sunset a slight| —
from N.;
no. ae
ee of
METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. 635 S38 aes Date Hour of 9.25 Remarks. Date Hour of 525 Remarks. y | RSE Day. | RSE AE aoe
1853. 1853.
May shower with us, rain, lasting till lasting about late at night. half an hour.
21 | sunrise | 80°5 June 22 | sunrise | 83°5 1 sunrise | 73°5 2p.m. {102 2pm. | 90 | Sky gloomy. sunset 92 sunset | 86 23 | sunrise | 82°5 2 sunrise | 76 2p.m. /|104 7am. | 73 | Thick clouds ga- 4 p.m. 99 | About 4 p.m. thun- thering. From der-storm from 7.30 a.m, rain half N. with moderate an hour tolerably rain about 5 heavy, then gen- o'clock. tle till 9 o’clock, 5 p.m. 79 when the sun 24 | sunrise | 78 {A slight fall in shone forth. the morning ; 2p.m. | 90 cloudy. sunset | 87 2 p.m. 95 3 | sunrise | 77 |A_ thunder-storm sunset 88 in the distance. 25 | sunrise | 78°5 2 p.m. 92 2pm. {107 | About 4 p.m. thun- sunset 89 der-storm in the 4 | sunrise | 73 | In the night thun- Ss. der - storm, with sunset 92 much rain, last- 26 | sunrise | 77°5| Early in the morn- ing till late in ing a few drops the morning. of rain. 5 | sunrise | 78 | Thunder-storm ga- 2 p.m. 96 7am, 73 thered from E.; sunset 89 6.5 a.m. it began 27 | sunrise | 78 | Early in the morn- raining, the first ing a slight thun- hour heavy, then der-storm with a gentle till about little rain; the 9 o'clock. Thun- whole day sky der-storm late in overcast. the evening, with sunset 84 afew drops ofrain. 28 | sunrise | 79 6 | No observiation.] Fine morning. sunset 90°5 7 =F 8 am. the sun 29 | sunrise | 80 broke through the 2 p.m. 94°4 clouds. sunset 82°4 2 p.m. a 30 | sunrise | 75 | Early in the morn- sunset 84°5 ing a little rain. 8 | sunrise | 75 | Very fine morning. sunset 89°5 9 - - |About 3 o’clock in 31 | sunrise | 79°5 the morning a 2 p.m. 99 | At 5 p.m. thunder- moderate shower.
storm accom- panied by heavy
10 - - - |About midnight from 10th to 11th
636
APPENDIX X.
Date. ae 1853. June V1 - - 12 - -
Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit. |
13 | No observ ation.
14 sunset 15 sunrise
98 87
Remarks,
a little rain ac- companied by heat - lightning, but no thunder- storm.
In the afternoon
thunder - clouds gathering, but the rain went south- wards.
At 43 o’clock a.m.
a thunder-storm gathering from E., followed by violent rain.
16 | No observ ation. |The following night
es ee Wal si = 19 «lee teste 20. ans te Pll pion de utes Ot ae
The
a little rain.
sun broke through the clouds about 8 a.m.
Fine morning; in
the afternoon thunder - storm from the E. passed by
About 4 o'clock
p.m. thunder- storm from the E., but no rain.
In the afternoon
thunder - storm at some distance.
(Say.)
In the afternoon
overcast. After sunset a thunder- storm gathered from E.N.E., re- freshing the air ; much wind but no rain.
In the — following
night thunder-
Date.
25 26 27
28
29
30
Hour of Day.
sunset
sunrise
Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit.
100
84
Remarks.
storm, but no rain,
The sky cleaver.
Sky overcast. 7 a.m. severe thun- der-storm ga- thered, setting in with a violent gale, followed by - heavy rain, last- ing about three hours.
73°5 | Fine morning.
Cloudy and stormy. Sky thickly over- cast, the clouds proceeding from N. 6.45 a.m, to
7.25 moderate rain, afterwards gentle till 9 o'clock. Sky overcast. | About noon a
few drops. About 1.30 p.m. heavy rain.
Sky thickly over- cast in the morn- ing, afterwards cleared up.
Fine morning, tole- rably clear. In the afternoon a thunder-storm in the distance; late in the evening ase- cond one gathered | from iE. reached us after 110’clock, with ex-
traordinary force | a for the first hour, |
then more gen- tle till 2 o’clock | a.m,
and | a
METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. 637
p-m. thunder-
storm towards ||
ae aoe Date. oe pe 5 Remarks. Date. ae e2 5 Remarks. eZ .) Pee Ae Ae 1853. 1853. July July 1 | No observjation. S., but not a drop 2 - - . |Sky about noon of rain. thickly overcast || 15 me - !In the afternoon and atmosphere again thunder- oppressive; clear- storm without a ed up in the drop of rain. afternoon. 16 eee - |Cool. 3 a ae - | Clear. 17 ai - |After 2 p.m. thun- 4 | No observ{ation. der-storm in the 5 ae be - |Sky overcast. 8.30 distance, the am. a thunder- whole sky becom- storm gathered, ing gradually accompanied by overcast. From violent rain till 5.15 p.m. mode- 9.45, afterwards rate rain till 8.30, lasting with in- and afterwards a termission till slight fall. 12.30. 18 =. is - | Atmosphere re- 6 - = - | Fine weather. freshed. In the 7 | No observjation. evening moderate 8 - |In the afternoon a rain. heavy thunder- |} 19 At 2 p.m. con- storm, but no siderable rain, rain. with frequent in- 9 Sky overcast, rainy. terruptions, but 10 am. the sun no thunder - broke through storm, the clouds. 20 Sky in the morn- 10 4 p.m. a thunder- ing very cloudy, storm gathered but no rain. from N. proceed- || 21 Wind westerly ; ed westward, no rain. bringing us only || 22 At 7.40 a.m. a a few drops. black thunder- storm gathering £1 In the afternoon from the E., fol- a thunder-storm, lowed by mode- but only a few rate rain lasting drops of rain. till 10 o’clock. 2 No thunder-storm; || 23 Sky mostly over- windy. (Libtako.) cast. About 5 13 During the follow- p-m. — thunder- ing night heavy storm towards thunder - storm, N. W., then but no rain here. turned by E. to- 14 About 4 o’clock wards §, and
reached us about 8 p.m, again from
638 APPENDIX X. (op wn (er go8 gos Date. Hour a 2 oF Remarks. Date. Hous of | Ses Remarks, ay ° bo x os ay. an iS = la are A a's ey iow 1853. 1853 July
derate rain, after- lowed by a very wards very heavy, heavy — shower, but not accom- lasting about 3 panied by wind, hour with the ut- continuing till 11 most _ violence, o’clock at night. after which it be-
24 Fine sunny day ; came more mo- no rain. derate, lasting till |
25 Clear. long after mid-
26 About 2 a.m. heavy night. thunder - storm, || Aug. followed by rain 1 In the afternoon lasting till 7 cloudy, but no o’clock. rain,
27 Late in the even- 2 Very fine day, but ing thunder- the heat gradu- storm followed ally oppressive ; after midnight clouds gathering by moderate rain, in the afternoon. at times inter- At 9 o’clock p.m. rupted. heavy gusts of
28 At 6.30 a.m. a wind and mode- heavy thunder- rate rain till storm gathering morning. from E., followed 3 At 2 p.m. thunder- by heavy rain, storm in §.W.; lasting till noon. about 9 p.m. Sky did not clear violent thunder- | up till near sun- storm with heavy | — set. rain,lasting about | —
29 Clear. = hour, followed | —
30 Heavy dew at by a second rain | — night, fine morn- very slight, but | — ing, scarcely a lasting till morn- cloud to be seen. ing.
At 9 o’clock p.m. 4 At 4.40 pm. alg a violent thunder- heavy shower | — storm with heavy lasting till 4.55. rain. 5 Clear.
31 The sun _ broke 6 In the evening through the thunder - storm clouds about 7 with heavy rain. | a.m., and the day 7 No rain. remained fine till 8 Clear. i 3 o'clock p.m., 9 Sky overcast. | when the clouds 10 7 p.m. a very Vi0- | —
the W.; first mo-
gathered, and at 4
p-m. were fol-
lent — thunder- |
METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER. 639
2 oe c 3 2o8 gos Date Hour of | 3% A Remarks. Date Hous, of 22'¢ Remarks. Day Ss & ay bo S & o ae i) as A fx, a Fa 1853. 1853 Aug. Aug
13
14
15
16
17 18 19 20 21
22
No observation.
No observiation.
storm with heavy gusts of wind and much rain.
No rain.
4 oclock p.m. a thunder - storm from the E., with rain lasting about ? hour, first vio- lent, afterwards becoming more moderate.
In the afternoon thunder - storm towards the S.
7 am. dark thun- der-clouds ga- thered from N., bringing a little rain, and the elec- tric matter not having been dis- charged a very sultry day fol- lowed.
The whole day thunder - storm towards N. and W.
Past midnight a violent thunder- storm gathered, followed by mo- derate rain, and another fall of rain towards morning.
At 43 c’clock p.m, a little rain.
In the night thun- der-storm but no rain.
Clear but very warm.
After 6 p.m. a heavy thunder-
24 : Os | No observation.
30
31
Sept. 1
Ww bo
No observiation.
storm from E., with much wind, but moderate rain; the air not much refreshed. Warm sunny day.
A thunder-storm; heat - lightning without rain.
At noon a thun- der-storm from the east. 12.45 a little rain. The rain clouds went from 8. to W., then turned northwards ; in that direction much rain.
Morning cool; in the evening a thunder - storm without rain in our neighbour- hood.
In the evening the sky thickly over- cast; thunder- storm gathered, onlya few drops of rain, heavy gale.
3 p.m. a thunder- storm as in gene- ral, from the E. 3.3 tolerably hea- vy rain, onlythree minutes. 4.35 p-m. a_ second thunder-storm.
Heat-lightning in the evening; heavy gale.
Heavy westerly gale.
640 APPENDIX X.
225 ae Date. ee 22 5 Remarks. Date. | — sc 32 5 Remarks, | g2e vee Q fy A 1853. 1853. ea ae Cl 3 : - - earcr. 7 J NOOB (Timbaktu.) 25 - = - Sunrise not clear; 8 he - |In the evening afterwards windy. thunder - storm 26 + 4s - {In the — evening with heavy thunder - storm clouds, but with- without rain. out rain. 27 atl ia - |Sky not clear, 9 =a ao - |In_ the evening About noon a heavy thunder- gale arose. storm from the || 28 - - | Towards morning N.; violent rain a little rain; sky from 8 to 8.30 thickly overcast; p-m., then less several times rain, severe till 11.5; especially in the afterwards heavy afternoon; in the | gale. evening consider-
10 ~ os - |In the afternoon a able rain. little rain. 29 - + - |1.30 p.m. heavy
11 sil (Ve - |Sky in the after- rain, but short. noon thickly £ Ae another overcast. all of rain, mo- |
12 rd - |Cloud derate, but last-
13 ; J: ing till 11 o’clock.
14 gue > |25 pm. alittle || -30 rain ; afterwards PAs thunder - storm os} Negpse a and considerable 1 rain. 2 - - - |In the afternocn
15 efits - | The clouds driven thunder - storm about by a storm. passed by to-
16 - - | Greater part wards the W. cloudy. without bringing
17 ~i= - | Tolerably clear. rain.
18 - + - |2 p.m. very violent 3 - - | 3.33 p.m. thunder- gale, followed by storm with heavy considerable rain. rain, lasting more
19 - - | Fine morning, than an hour.
20 = > - | Early in the morn- 4 ing heavy gale to - - - | Clear. with a few drops 7 of eG be- 8 - - {4 es p- m. came cooler. thunder - storm
21 reenti - | Tolerably clear. towards the N.
22 eee - | At 7 o'clock p.m. 9 at Se - |4 p.m. rain with a thunder-storm interruption. with moderate 10 - os - | Sky not clear. rain, 11
23 - - | Heavy gale, = ‘ e Cea
| | er | | SO
Hour of | 2% Date Day. Eee o i) Ae 1853. Oct. 13 ini . 14 15 - - - 16 17 oe 2 t, 18 S 5 ig 19 - - - 20 | Noobserviation. 21 - ws 2 22 “ > -
METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.
Remarks.
Overcast; at 4 p.m. a thunder-storm from the N. with heavy gale, but only a few drops of rain.
Cloudy in the east.
In the afternoon cloudy. Night cool; fine morning.
Cool night.
The morning cloudy; N.E. gale.
N.E. wind.
Clear; gradually
N.E. wind arose.
e ca Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit
No observiation.
No observ|ation. sunrise 56 sunset 76 sunrise 56 sunrise 63 sunrise 62
END OF THE FOURTH VOLUME.
VOL. IV.
fhe he
641
Remarks.
Very cold night. Clear cold morn-
ing.
Tolerably clear.
Very cold; heavy northerly gale. Month of Decem- ber no rain; sky generally dull in the morning, only occasionally
clear.
ety
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Hassall’s British Freshwater Allee 9 Hooker’s British Flora - - 9 ne Guide to Kew Gardens - 9 as Oo “ Kew Museum- 9 Lindley’s Introduction to Botany 11 Bo Theory of Horticulture - 11
Loudon’ s Hortus Britannicus - 13 Amateur Gardener - 13 <= Trees and SERS - - 12 << Gardening - - 12 a Plants - - 13
ae Self-Instruction for Gar- deners, &c. - - Pereira’s Materia Medics - ry) pte Rivers’s Rose-Amateur’s Guide - 18 Wilson’s British Mosses - - 24
Chronology.
Blair’s Chronological Tables - 4 Brewer’s Historical Atlas - - 4 Bunsen’s Ancient Egypt - 5 Calendars of English State Papers 5 Haydn’s Beatson’s Index - 0) Jaquemet’s Chronology 1l Nicolas’s Chronology “of History - - 1
Commerce and Mercantile
. Affairs.
Gilbart’s Treatise on Banking = 8 Lorimer’s Young Master Mariner 12 Macleod’s Banking - - - 13 M‘Culloch’sCommerce & Navigation 14
Scrivenor on Iron Trade - =, 1 Thomson’s Interest Tables - - 21 Tooke’s History of Prices - =: wl Criticism, History, and
Memoirs.
Blair’s Chron. and Histor.Tables- 4 Brewer’s Historical Atlas - - - 4 Bunsen’s Ancient Egypt - - 5 <6 Hippolytus - - 5 Burton’s History of Sectland - 5 Calendars of English State Papers 5 Chapman’s Gustavus Adolphus - 6 Conybeare and Howson’s St. Paul 6 Connolly’s Sappers and Miners - 6 Gleig’s Leipsie Campaign = - - 22 Gurney’ s Historical Sketches = 8 Herschel's Essays and Addresses - 9 Jeffrey’s (Lord) Contributions - J1 Kemble’s Anglo-Saxons - - ill Lardner’s Cabinet Cyclopedia - 12
Macaulay’ s Crit. ana Hist. BSseye 13 History of England 13 OG Speéches - - 13 Mackintosh’ s Miscellaneous Works 13 History of England - 13 edcniaelACebouanhicalbictensty 14 Maunder’s Treasuryof History - 14 Memoir of the Duke of Wellington 22 Merivale’s History of Rome - - Se Roman Republic - - Milner’s Church History - = Moore’s (Thomas) Memoirs,&c. - 15 Mure’s Greek Literature - - Perry’s Franks - - - -
INDEX.
Raikes’s Journal - - - 17 Ranke’s Ferdinand & Maximilian 22 Riddle’s Latin Dictionaries - 18 Rogers’s Essays from Edinb. Review18 Roget’s English Thesaurus - - 18 Schmitz’s History of Greece - 18 Southey’s Doctor - - - 20
Stephen’s Ecclesiastical Biography 20 “« Lectures on French History 20
Sydney Smith’ s Works - - - 20 Select Works - 22
<6 Lectures - - 20
<< Memoirs - - 20 Taylor’s Loyola - me) | Gu Wesley - - - 21 Thirlwall’s History of Greece - 21 Thomas’s Historical Notes - - 21
Thornbury’s Shakspeare’s England 21
Townsend’s State Trials - 21 Turkey and Christendom - = 22 Turner’s Anglo-Saxons - - Be
Ke Middle Ages - ce Sacred Hist. of the World 33 Vehse’s Austrian Court - - - 23
Wade’s England’s Greatness - 24 Whitelocke’s Swedish Embassy - 24 Young’s Christ of History - - 24 Geography and Atlases. Brewer’s Historical Atlas - = 4 Butier’s Geography and EL - 56 Cabinet Gazetteer - - - 5 Cornwall: Its Mines, &c. - - 22 Durrieu’s Morocco - -_ = 2 Hughes’s Australian Colonies - 22
Johnston’s General Gazetteer - ll M‘Culloch’s Geox rape Ute an oe 14
Russia and Turkey 22 wane s Treasury of Geography 14 Mayne’s Arctic Discoveries - = 22 Murray’s Encyclo. of Geography - 16 Sharp’s British Gazetteer. - ° - 19
Juvenile Books.
Amy Herbert- - Cleve Hall - Earl’s Daughter (The) Experience of Life Gertrude - - Howitt’s Boy’s Country Book
ce Kohan gy ) Children’s pices Ivors - Katharine Ashton ~ - Taneton Parsonage - - Margaret Percival - - =
TP SO ate OO 14 Lol eo}
Medicine and Surgery.
Brodie’s Psychological Inquiries - Bull’s Hintsto Mothers- — - - « Managementof Children - Copland’s Dictionary of Medicine - Cust’ s Inyalid’s Own Book - - Holland’s Mental Physiology - OG Medical Notes snd Reflect. 9 How to Nurse Sick Children - - Kesteven’s Domestic Medicine - Pereira’s Materia Medica - - Reece’s Medical Guide - - - 18 Richardson’s Cold-Water Cure - West on Diseases of Infancy - -
Miscellaneous and General
Literature. Bacon’s (Lord) Works - - + Carlisle’s Lectures and Addresses 2 Defence of Eclipseof Faith - =
Eclipse of Faith - Greg’s Political and Social Essays Greyson’ s Select Correspondence - Gurney’s Evening Recreations - Hassall’sAdulterations Detected, ee Haydn’s Book of Dignities - Holland’s Mental Physiology = Hooker’s Kew Guides - - Howitt’s Rural Life of England - 10 OG Visitsto RemarkablePlaces 10 Hutton’s 100 Years Ago - - lo Jameson’s Commonplace-Book - 1] Jeffrey’s (Lord) Contributions - 1y
OOOO MM M1 IW Ww
2
Se
CLASSIFIED INDEX.
Johns’s Lands of Silence and of
| Darkness - es a =
St oN ey Se
Cn ey
Sf RS LT A
Last of the Old Squires - - Macaulay’ s Crit. and Hist. Essays Speeches) - - -
! Mackintosh’s Miscellaneous Works i Memoirs of a Maitre-d’Armes -
il 16 13 13 13 22
Maitland’s Churchin the Catacorils in
Martineau’s Miscellanies -
Moore’s Church Cases - - - Printing: Its Origin,&c. - - Pycroft’s English Reading - Rich’s Comp. to Latin Dictionary Riddle’s Latin Dictionaries - - Rowton’s Debater -
17 18 18
18
Seaward’s Narrative ofhis Shipwreck19
Sir Reger De Coverley_- - - Smith’s (Rey. Sydney) Works Southey’ s Pommon plage Books The Doctor &c. - Souvestre’s Attic Philosopher “ Confessions of a Working Man Stephen’s Essays - - - Stow’s Training System - Thomson’s Laws of Thought Townsend’s State Trials - Willich’s Popular Tables - Yonge’s English-Greek Lexicon &~" Latin Gradus - Zumpt’s LatinGrammar -
Natural Historyin general.
Catlow’s Popular Conchology _§ -
Ephemeraand Young on the Salmon
Garratt’s Marvels of Instinct -
6 a. 8
Gosse’s Natural History of Jamaica 8 Kemp’s Natural History of Creation 22
Kirby and Spence’s Entomology - Lee’s Elements of Natural History Maunder’s Natural History - - Turton’s Shells oftheBritishIslands Van der Hoeven’s Zoology - Von Tschudi’s Sketches in the Alps Waterton’s Essayson Natural ns Youatt’s The Dog - -
OG The Horse - - -
11 1]
1-Volume Encyclopxdias
and Dictionaries. Blaine’s RuralSports - - -
4
Brande’s Science, Literature, and Art 4
Copland's Dictionary of Medicine - Cresy’s Civil Engineering - - Gwilt’s Architecture - = S
Johnston’s Geographical Dictionary 11 1
Loudon’s Agriculture - = - a Rural Architecture - ae Gardening - - = Oi Plants - 2 8 ce Trees and Shrubs - -
6 6 8
M‘Culloch’sGeographicalDictionary 14 its Dictionary of Commerce 14
Murray’s Encyclo. of Secu: - Sharp’s British Gazetteer -
Ure’s Dictionary of Arts, &c. - - Webster’s Domestic Economy -
16 19 23 24
Religious é& Moral Works.
Amy Herbert - Bloomfield’s Greek Testament Calvert’s Wife’s aes - Cleve Hall - - - Conybeare’s Essays - Conybeare and Howson’s St. ‘Paul
19 4 6
19
6
Cotton’s Instructions in Christianity 6
Dale’s Domestic Liturgy - - Defence of Eclipse of pid - - Discipline - = Mie RS)
Earl’s Daughter (The) -
Eclipse of Faith - - Englishman’ s Greek Concordance Heb.&Chald.Concord. ayiectued (ERS) of Life SEI Gertrude - Harrison’s Light of the Forge -
Hook’s Lectureson Passion Week
Horne’s Introduction to Scriptures a Abridgment of ditto - Huc’s Christianity in China - - Humphreys’s Parables Mluminated Ivors - - - - Jameson’s Barred Legends - - ce Monastic Legends - - Gt Legends of the Madonna ay Lectures on opti Em- ployment - inet ee Jeremy Taylor’s Worms: = =
Katharine Ashton = K6nig’s Pictorial Life of Luther - Laneton Parsonage - Letters to my Unknown Friends - sc on Happiness - = - - LyraGermanica - - - - Macnaught on Inspiration - Maguire’ s Rome - . > Maitland’s Church in Catacombs -
Margaret Percival - - i =. Sonata tuaoal me
_
me 6D a C/O CO a¥s¥ “NO “Fa m1
Martineaw’ s Christian Life - - 14 Hymns - - - 14
Merivale’ s Christian Records - 15 Milner’s Church of Christ - - 15 Moore onthe Use ofthe Body - 15 «« Soul and Body - 15
s¢ %s Man and his Motives - 15 Mormonism - - - - mye Morning Clouds - Sai - 16 Neale’s Closing Scene - - - 16
Ranke’s Ferdinand & Maximilian 22 Readings for Lent - - - 19 Confirmation - - 19 Riddle’s Household Prayers- - 18 Robinson’s Lexicon to the Greek
Testament - - - - - 18 Saints our Example - - - 18 Sermon in the Mount - - 19 Sinclair’s Journey of Life - 19 Smith’s s (Sydney) Moral Philosophy 20
(G.V.)AssyrianProphecies 20 G3 (G. ) Wesleyan Methodism 19 3 (J.) St. Paut’s Shipwreck - 20
Southey’s Life of Wesley. - 20 Stephen’s Ecclesiastical 'Biography 20 Taylor’s Loyola - 21 OG Wesley - - - - 21 Theologia Germanica -- = - 5 Thumb Bible (The) 21 Tomline’s Introduction to the , Bible 21 Turner’s Sacred History- = - 23 Young’s Christ of History - - 24 ce Mystery - - - - #4 Poetry and the Drama.
Aikin’s (Dr.) British Poets - - 8 Arnold’s Poems - 3 Baillie’s (Joanna) Poetical Works 3 Calvert’s Wife’s Manual - - 6 De Vere’s May Carols - - sed: Estcourt’s Music of Creation - 7 Fairy Family (The) - Sarit! Goldsmith’s Poems, illustrated - 8 L. E. L.’s Poetical Works —- - il
Linwood’s Anthologia Oxoniensis- 12 Lyra Germanica - - = - 5 Macaulay’s Lays of Ancient Rome 13 Mac Donald’ s Within and Without 13
Poems - -
Matiaomsite s Poetical Works - 15 Moore’ s Poetical Works - - 15 SG Selections (illustrated) - 15 &¢ Lalla Rookh = - - 16 «é Irish Melodies - - - 16 <e Songs and Ballads - - 15 Reade’s Poetical Works - - 17 Shakspeare, by Bowdler - - 19 Southey’s Poetical Works - = 20 4 British Poets - - - 20 Thomson’s Seasons, illustrated = 21 Political Economy and Statistics. Dodd’s Food of London - Spacey Greg’s Political and Social Essays 8 Laing’s Notes of a Traveller - - 22 M‘Cuiloch’ s Geog.Statist.&c.Dict. 14
Dictionary of oa 14 ag London - - 22 Willich’s Popular Tables - - 24
The Sciences in general
and Mathematics.
Arago’s Meteorological Essays - «Popular Astronomy- == Bourne on the Screw Propeller -
«© %s Catechism of Steam-Engine Boyd’s Naval Cadet’s Manual —- Brande’s Dictionary of Science, &c.
« Lectures on Organic Chemistry Cresy’s Civil Engineering DelaBeche’ sGeology ofCornwall, &e. De la Rive’s Electricity - - Grove’s Correla. of Physical Forces Herschel’s Outlines of Astronomy Holland’s Mental Physiology - Humboldt’s Aspects of Nature
Cosmos - -
Hunt on Light -
Lardner’s Cabinet Cyclopedia Marcet’s (Mrs.) Conversations - 15 Morell’s Elements of Psychology - 16 Moseley’sEngineering&Architecture 16 Our Coal- Fields and our Coal-Pits 22 Owen’s LecturesonComp.Anatomy 17
OO OWRD PPP IP woo
VT AT fee! _ Oo
Pereira on Polarised Light - - 17 Peschel’s Elements of Physics - 17 Phillips’s Fossils of Cornwall, &c. 17
‘¢ Mineralogy - - Soul
5 Guide to Geology - - 17 Portlock’s Geology of Londonderry 17 Powell’s Unity of Worlds - aly Smee’s Electro-Metallurgy - - 19 Steam-Engine(The) - - 4 Wilson’s Electric Telegraph - - - 22%
— Sports.
Baker’s Rifle and Hound in Ceylon Berkeley’s Forests of France Blaine’s Dictionary of Sports Cecil’s Stable Practice - -
«© Stud Farm - - - The Cricket-Field - - - Davy’s Fishing Excursions, 2 Series Ephemera on “Angling -
’s Book of the Salmon
Hawker’s Young Sportsman - The Hunting-Field - - Idle’s Hints on Shooting - Pocket andthe Stud - - Practical Horsemanship - Richardson’s Horsemianeho - Ronalds’ Fly-Fisher’s Entomology Stable Talk and Table Talk - - Stonehenge on the Greyhound - Thacker’s Courser’s Guide - = The Stud, for Practical Purposes -
Veterinary Medicine, &e.
Cecil’s Stable Practice “ Stud Farm -
Hunting-Field (The) -
Miles’s Horse- Shoeing -
“ on the Horse’s Foot Pocket and the Studs - Practical Horsemanship Richardson’s Horsemanship Stable Talk and Table Talk = Stud (The) - = Youatt’s The Dog -
fe The Horse -
Voyages and Travels.
Auldjo’s Ascent of Mont Blane Baines’s Vaudois of Piedmont Baker’s Wanderings in Ceylon Barrow’s Continental Tour - Barth’s African Travels - Rerkeley’s Forests of France Burton’s East Africa - -
«6 Medina and Mecea - Carlisle’s Turkey and Greece De Custine’s Russia Eothen - - - Ferguson’s Swiss Travels Flemish Interiors - - - Forester’s Rambles in Norway
Gi Sardinia and Corsica Gironiére’s Philippines - - Gregorovius’s Corsica - - Halloran’s Japan_ - - = Hill’s Travels in Siberia - Hinchliff's Travels in the Alps Hope’s Brittany and the Bible
“ Chase in Brittany -
Howitt’s Art-Student in Munich +
« (W.) Victoria- = Huc’s Chinese Empire -
ee imibievecian ac eo) Wate ak ee
Huc and Gabet’s Tartary & Thibet Hudson and Kendiogy: s Mont —
Blane - = Hughes’s Australian Colonies - Humboldt’s Aspects of Nature - Hurlbut’s Pictures from Cuba -
Hutchinson’s African Exploration Jameson’s Canada- — - - - Jerrmann’s St. Petersburg - = Laing’s Norway - - «Notes of a Traveller - M‘Clure’s North-West Passage -
MacDougall’sV oyage of the Resolute iy
Mason’s Zulus of Natal - ; Miles’s Rambles in Iceland - - Osborn’s Quedah -
Pfeiffer’s Voyage round ‘the World i
os Second ditto - - - Scherzer’s Central America - - Seaward’s Narrative - - - Snow’s Tierra del Fuego = - Spottiswoode’s Eastern Russia - Von Tempsky’ s Mexico and | Gta temala Weld’s Vacations in Ireland - + OS United States and Canada - Werne’s African Wanderings
Wilberforce’s Brazil & Slaye- Trade 2
works of Fiction.
Cruikshank’s Falstaff - - Howitt’s Tallangetta -
Macdonald’s Villa rorocelaae a
Melville’s Confidence-Man - Moore's Epicurean ‘ail = Sir Roger De Coverley -
Sketches (The), Three Tales - 1
Southey’s The Doctor &e. = Trollope’s Barchester Towers Warden -
b
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8
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x
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Summary of the Contents of the TRAVELLER’S LIBRARY, xzow complete in 102 ? Parts, price One Shilling each, or in 50 Volumes, price 9s, 6d. each in cloth— — To be had also, im complete Sets only, at Five Guineas per Set, bound in ein i lettered, in 25 Volumes, classified as follows :— “3
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.
IN EUROPE. IN ASIA. wey
A CONTINENTAL TOUR ..... ...BY J. BARROW. | CHINA AND THIBET........ BY THE ABBE’ HUC. eed re Pages By F. MAYNE, | SYRIA AND PALESTINE.......... .. “EOTHEN.”? | BRITTANY AND THE BIBLE ...... By I. HOPE, | THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, By P. GIRONIERE. BRITTANY AND THE CHASE |... By I. HOPE. CORSHOR O55) Sides be BY F, GREGOROVIUS. IN AFRICA, GERMANY, Etc.: NOTES oF Gl aie AFRICAN WANDERINGS....... By M. WERNE
NEL Ui ease 9 i BYU) DH eee ae tees . , MOROCCOx3 Sa ete ee BY X. RIE ORIGIN De tg Sar a ee BY P. MILES. NIGER EXPLORATION. .By T. J. HUTCHINSO NORWAY, A RESIDENCE IN...... By S. LAING. THE ZULUS OF NATAL.,....... BY G. H. MASON, | NORWAY, RAMBLES IN...... BY T. FORESTER.
WGSER (ee BY THE MARQUIS DE CUSTINE. IN AMERICA, BUSSTA AND TURKEY ,. By Re MCCULLOCH. | BRAZIn. 2.) 2.00 ..... BY E. WILBERFORC ST. PETERSBURG............ <i JERRMANN. CANADA sce a esas By A. M. JAM : THE RUSSIANS OF THE SOUTH, BY S’BROOKS. | OUBA....0) esau BY Ww. H. HURLB SWISS MEN AND SWISS) yy R FERGUSON NORTH AMERICAN WILDS .... By C. LANM.
MOUNTAINS ............ . . ea he MONT BLANC, ASCENT OF...... By J, AULDJO. IN AUSTRALIA. SKETCHES OF NATURE} yy F. VON TscHupr, | AUSTRALIAN COLONIES...... By W. HUGHES. VISIT TO THE VAUDOIS Be ats ROUND THE WORLD.
OF PIEDMONT ........5°°°"° : . - | A LADY’S VOYAGE..........BY IDA PFEIFFER
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
MEMOIR OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON, CHESTERFIELD & SELWYN, By A. HAYWA THE LIFE OF MARSHAL ) By THE REV. T, O. SWIFT AND RICHARDSON, By LORD JEFFREY.
TURENNE shi. a aE COCKAYNE, DEFOE AND CHURCHILL .... By J. FORSTE: SCHAMYL .... By BODENSTEDT AND WAGNER, | ANECDOTES OF DR. JOHNSON, By MRS. PIOZZI.. FRANCIS ee a AN ESSAY ON THE Li x mics RE ine y HEN ay"
THOMAS HOLCROFT’S MEMOIRS. GENIUS OF THOMAS. FULLER "ROGER
ESSAYS BY LORD MACAULAY.
Pee sires GS.
LORD COMIC DRAMATISTS (BF THE RESTORATIO: WILLIAM irr, FREDERIC THE GRE : N. f
THE KARL OF CHATHAM. HALLAM’S CONSTHTULIONAL HISTORY.
RANKE’S HISTORY OF THE POPES, > > 2 GLADSTONE ON CHURCH AND STATE, CROMNGON Se OF Besa ae
ADDISON’S LIFE ie WRITINGS,
HORACE WALPOL 3 LORD BACON. LORD MACAULAY’S SPEECHES ON PA
MENTARY REFORM. WORKS OF FICTION.
THE LOVE STORY, rrom SOUTHEY’S DOCTOR. AN ATTIC PHILOSO- py E, SOUYES TR
FROM THE eeoene a it ROBT DEO BREE } SPECTATOR. SIR EDWARD SEAWARD’S NARRATI MEMOIRS OF A MAITRE-D’ARMES, py DUMAS, HIS SHIPWRECK,
TROT EEA eee ECON eaten:
NATURAL HISTORY, &c.
NATURAL HISTORY OF DR. L. KEMP ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH, &c. BY DR. G. Ww CREATION 40... .cocacte BY ine - | OUR COAL-FIELDS AND OUR COAL-PIT INDICATIONS OF INSTINCT, py DR. L. KEMP, | CORNWALL, ITS MINES, MINERS, &.
MISCELLANEOUS WORKS.
BY THE EARL or {| RAILWAY MORALS AND ers: LECTURES AND ADDRESSES { CARLISLE, RAILWAY POLICY ...... }.. ny H. SPI
ag ey FROM SYDNEY SMITH’S MORMONISM .. By THE REV. W. J. CC TINGS. LONDON poeeveeseeoeeeneon ByJ.R,M Aoicoot cr "ygiaibdegn gga albene: BY A. STARK. é <
_ The Traveller’s Library being now com- plete, the Publishers call attention to this collection as well adapted for Travellers and Emigrants, for School-room Libraries, the Libraries of Mechanics’ Institutions, Young Men’s Libraries, the Libraries of Ships, and similar purposes. The separate volumes are suited for School Prizes, Presents to Young People, and for general instruc- tion and entertainment. The Series comprises fourteen of the most popular of Lord Macaulay’s _ Essays, and his Speeches on Parliamentary Reform. The department of Travels contains some account of eight of the principal countries of Europe, as well as travels in four districts of Africa, in four of America, and in three of Asia. Madame Pfeiffer’s First Journey round the World is included ; anda general account of the Australian Colonies. In Biography and History will be found Lord Macau- _lay’s Biographical Sketches of Warren Hastings, Clive, Pitt, Walpole, Bacon, and others; besides Memoirs of Wellington, Turenne, F. Arago, &c.; an Essay on the Life and Genius of Thomas Fuller, with Selections from his Writings, by Mr. Henry Rogers ; and a history of the Leipsic Campaign, by Mr. Gleig, — which is the only separate account of this remarkable campaign. Works of Fiction did not come within the plan of the TRAVELLER’s L1- BRARY; but the Confessions of a Working Man, by Souvestre, which isindeed a fiction founded on fact, has been included, and has been read with unusual interest by many of the working classes, for whose
_ use it is especially recommended. Dumas’s story of the Maitre-d’ Armes, though in form a work of _ fiction, gives a striking picture of an episode in the history of Russia. Amongst the works on Science and Natural Philosophy, a general view of Creation is embodied in Dr. Kemp’s Natural History of Creation; and in his Indications of Instinct remark- able facts in natural history are collected. Dr. Wilson has contributed a popular account cf the Electric Telegraph. In the volumes on the Coail- Fields, and on the Tin and other Mining Districts of Cornwall, is given an account of the mineral wealth of England, the habits and manners of the miners, and the scenery of the surrounding country. Tt only remains to add, that among the Miscella- neous Works are a Selection of the best Writings of the Rey. Sydney Smith; Lord Carlisle’s Lectures and Addresses ; an account of Mormonism, by the Rey. W. J. Conybeare; an exposition of Railway Management and mismanagement, by Mr. Herbert Spencer ; an account of the Origin and Practice of
_ Printing, by Mr. Stark; and an account of London,
by Mr. M‘Culloch.
_ ‘Tf wewere called upon to lay the first stone of a Me- - chanics’ Institute or Book-
atic countries, and examples from the works of Souvestre and Dumas. Bound together, they form twenty-five con- venient volumes, which any society of a hundred and five members may possess, upon payment of one shilling each, An association of this kind, formed in every small town, would thus create sufficient basis for a free library upon a modest scale. Good books are not beyond the reach of
e are Mr. Macaulay’s t writings, the anthologia ths some a cable literary essays by ‘different authors, several ex- ent volumes of science,
ratives of travel in eight | working men, if working ypean, four American, | men will combine to obtain
African, and three Asi- | them.’ LEADER,
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Trollope.— Barchester Towers. By An-
THONY TROLLOPE. 31s. 6d.
** Barchester Towers (a kind of sequel in continuation of Mr. Trollope’s former novel The Warden) does not depend only on story for its interest; the careful writing, the good humour with a tendency often to be Shandean in its expression,
3 vols. post 8vo. price
and the sense and right. feeling with which the way is threaded among questions of high church and low church, are very noticeable, and secure for it unquestion- able rank among the few really well-written tales that. every season produces.”
EXAMINER,
Trollope.—The Warden. By Anthony Trollope. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d.
Sharon Turner’s Sacred History of the World, attempted to be Philosophically considered, in a Series of Letters to a Son. New Hdition, edited by the Rev. 8S. TURNER. 3 vols. post 8vo. price 31s. 6d.
Sharon Turner’s History of England during the Middle Ages: Comprising the Reigns from the Norman Conquest to the Accession of Henry VIII. Fifth Edition, revised by the Rey. S. Turner. 4 vols. 8vo. price 50s.
Sharon Turner’s History of the Anglo- Saxons, from the Harliest Period to the Norman Conquest. Seventh Edition, revised by the Rey. 8. TuRNER. 3 vols. 8vo. 36s.
Dr. Turton’s Manual of the Land and Fresh-Water Shells of Great Britain. New Edition, thoroughly revised and brought up to the Present Time. Hdited by Dr. J. H. Gray, F.R.S., &c., Keeper of the Zoological Department in the British Museum. Crown 8vo. with Coloured Plates. [Jn the press.
Dr. Ure’s Dictionary of Arts, Manufac- tures, and Mines: Containing a clear Expo- sition of their Principles and Practice. Fourth Edition, much enlarged ; most of the Articles being entirely re-written, and many new Articles added. With nearly 1,600 Woodcuts. 2 vols. 8vo. price 60s.
Van Der Hoeven’s Handbook of Zoology. Translated from the Second Dutch Edition
’ by the Rev. Witt1am Crarz, M.D.,F.RBS., &c., late Fellow of Trinity College, and Pro- fessor of Anatomy in the University of Cambridge; with additional References fur- nished by the Author. In Two Volumes. Vol. L. Invertebrate Animals; with 15 Plates, comprising numerous Figures. 8vo. 30s.
Vehse.—Memoirs of the Court, Aristo- cracy, and Diplomacy of Austria. By Dr. E. Veuse. ‘Translated from the German by Franz DEMMLER. 2 vols. post 8yo. 21s,
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Von Tempsky.— Mitla: A Narrative of
Incidents and Personal Adventures on a Journey in Mexico and Guatemala in the Years 1853 and 1854: With Observations on the Modes of Life in those Countries. By G.F. Von Trempsky. Edited by J. 8. BExt, Author of Journal of a Residence in Circassia in the Years 1836 to 1839. With Illustra- tions in Chromolithography and Engravings on Wood. 8vo. [In the press.
Wade. — England’s Greatness: Its Rise and Progress inGovernment, Laws, Religion, and Social Life; Agriculture, Commerce, and Manufactures ; Science, Literature, and the Arts, from the Earliest Period to the Peace of Paris. By Jonn Wavz, Author of the Cabinet Lawyer, &. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d.
Waterton.—Essays on Natural History, chiefly Ornithology. By C. WATERTON, Esq. With an Autobiography of the Author, and Views of Walton Hall. New and cheaper Edition. 2 vols. fep. 8vo. price 10s.
Waterton’s Essays on Natural History. Third Series; with a Continuation of the Auto- biography, and a Portrait of the Author. Fep. 8vo. price 6s.
Webster and Parkes’s Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy; comprising such sub- jects as are most immediately connected with Housekeeping: As, The Construction of Domestic Edifices, with the Modes of Warm- ing, Ventilating, and Lighting them—A de- scription of the various articles of Furniture, with the nature of their Materials—Duties of Servants—&e. New Edition; with nearly 1,000 Woodcuts. 8vo. price 50s.
Weld. — Vacations in Ireland. By CHARLES RIcHARD WELD, Barrister - at- Law. Post 8vo. with a tinted View of Birr Castle, price 10s. 6d.
Weld.—A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada. By C.R.Wetp, Barrister-at- Law. Post 8vo. with Map, 10s. 6d.
West. — Lectures on the Diseases "of Infancy and Childhood. By CHariEs West, M.D., Physician to the Hospital for Sick Children; Physician-Accoucheur to, and Lecturer on Midwifery at, St. Bartholomew’s Hospital. Third Edition. S8vo. 14s.
Willich’s Popular Tables for ascertain- ing the Value of Lifehold, Leasehold, and Church Property, Renewal Fines, &. With numerous additional Tables —Chemical, As- tronomical, Trigonometrical, Common and Hyperbolic Logarithms; Constants, Squares, Cubes, Roots, Reciprocals, &. Fourth Edition, enlarged. Post 8vo. price 10s.
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Whitelocke’s Journal of the English - Embassy to the Court of Sweden in the Years 1653 and 1654. A New Edition, — revised by Henry Rezxvz, Esq., F.S.A. 2 vols. 8vo, 24s. 5
Wilmot’s Abridgment of Blackstone’s - Commentaries on the Laws of England, in- tended for the use of Young Persons, and comprised in a series of Letters from a Father — to his Daughter. 12mo. price 6s. 6d. i
Wilson (W.)—Bryologia Britannica: Con- taining the Mosses of Great Britain and Treland systematically arrangedand described according to the Method of Bruch and — Schimper ; with 61 illustrative Plates. Being — a New Edition, enlarged and altered, of the — Muscologia Britannica of Messrs. Hooker and — Taylor. By Wi111am WItson, President — of the Warrington Natural History Society. — 8vo. 42s.; or, with the Plates coloured, price £4. 4s. cloth. =
ie 4
Yonge.—A New English-Greek Lexicon: — Containing all the Greek Words used by — Writers of good authority. By C. D. — . Yonaz, B.A. Second Edition, revised and /
corrected. Post 4to. price 21s.
eS
Yonge’s New Latin Gradus: Containing Every Word used by the Poets of good authority. For the use of Eton, West-— minster, Winchester, Harrow, Charterhouse, — and Rugby Schools; King’s College, Lon- don; and Marlborough College. Fifth Edition. Post 8vo. price 9s.; or with APPENDIX of Epithets classitied according to their English Meaning, 12s.
Youatt.—The Horse. By William Youatt. — With a Treatise of Draught. New Hdition, © with numerous Wood Engravings, from Designs by William Harvey. (Messrs. — Loneman and Co.’s Edition should be or- — dered.) 8vo. price 10s.
LEER BAe at tow
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Youatt. The Dog. By William Youatt. A New Edition; with numerous Engravings, — from Designs by W. Harvey. 8yvo. 6s. ;
Young. — The Christ of History: An — Argument grounded in the Facts of His — Life on Earth. By Jonn Youne, LL.D. ~ Second Edition. Post 8vo. 73.6d. — =
Young.—The Mystery; or, Evil and God. By — Joun Youne, LL.D. Post 8vo.7s.6d.
Zumpt’s Grammar of the Latin Lan- — guage. ‘Translated and adapted for the use of English Students by Dr. L. Scumrrz, — F.R.S.E.: With numerous Additions and Corrections by the Author and Translator 4th Edition, thoroughly revised. 8vo. 14
(October 1857. —
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