CITRUS CULTURE
CALIFORNIA. “

1sSss.

SMITHSONIAN. DEPOSIT

Compliments of

AB. M<“LELONE,-

Secretary California State Board of Horticulture.

Please acknowledge receipt.

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TREATISE ON CITRUS CULTURE BY B. M. LELONG.—Puats No. 1.

:

GILES LITHO& LIBERTY PRINTING CO. N.Y.

WASHINGTON NAVEL.

Arne ATISE

ON

CITRUS GULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

WITH

A Description of the Best Varieties grown’ in the State, and Varieties grown in
other States and Foreign Countries; Gathering, Packing,
Curing, Pruning, Budding, Diseases, Etc.

By Be iL seRLONG;

Secretary of the State Board of Horticulture of the State of California.

‘ CON...
ag a* Ye
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754 040
SEP 13 1888 /

te

Know’st thou the land where the lemon trees bloom,

Where the gold orange glows in the deep thicket’s gloom,
Where a wind ever soft from the blue heavens blows,

And the groves are of miro and nikau and rose? California.

SACRAMENTO:
STATE OFFICE, :,: : : J. D. YOUNG, SUPT. STATE PRINTING.
1888.

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To the honorable the Officers and the Members of the State
Board of Horticulture:

GENTLEMEN: This little “Treatise” is by permission most
respectfully submitted for your kind consideration and ap-
proval.

I have used every effort within my power to have the same
in the hands of the Printer, but owing to the immense increase
of business of this Department, to which I must devote the
most of my time, and having had no assistance, it has been
delayed until now.

The inquiry for information on this subject has by far ex-
ceeded my power to give by letter, and I sincerely hope that
this little work will now supply the long felt want.

Very respectfully submitted.

Bye M. LELONG,

Secretary.
Approved:

ELLWOOD COOPER,
President.

SAN FRANCISCO, April 9, 1888.

OFFICERS AND MEMBERS OF THE BOARD.

HON. EEL WOOD COORE RR Bresidentys..y mela len arte

Commissioner for the Los Angeles District.

IREVE) Nia hem HC Revice-Presidents peat) cela ee eee
Commissioner for the E] Dorado District.

GEN JMG.) VALE OR reasunen yas demas site chasers

Commissioner for the Sonoma District.

DRED WIN SKOVIB ATE Anditoreey eerie seen yet
Commissioner for the State at Large.

ACSC OT a CELA PMA o3 <2 8.) Nee ay pCa eee Ss
Commissioner for the State at Large.

S OES RUN) Nish POS Bes oS Se Ee, np Pe BU Re der as de
Commissioner for the Sacramento District.

Niet toy 110) CXC roe ars pee gt, lee I NSS en Sed ee eee ge efey

Commissioner for the San Joaquin District.

BESSA TO Coss a2 os, oi eiads eee Ste ac ee en eS tee

Commissioner for the San Francisco District.

B. M. LELONG, Secretary.

Wirt Gr ekeleE Bye laspector Of Eniitsm ests: wm cn. cee cy. see
Office of the Board:

.Santa Barbara,

.. Haywards, -

Soe Dal Gabriels

Courtland,

SS Saae Napa City,
Bhs ioe ee Fresno,

.....santa Clara,

Berkeley.

No. 220 SUTTER STREET, SAN FRANCISCO.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PART I—ORANGE, THE:

CLASS
CLASS
CLASS
CLASS
CLASS
CLASS
CLASS
CLASS

CLASS

A—Best foreign varieties . .
B—Foreign varieties,

C—Foreign varieties tried, and not recommended. . .

recommended for trial . .

DEB esa aes CmVATICUIES ery weer yrs wera clei aals seni cas rater eee

i | Apemescuvattetles: CONMMUCMe quent sor ltes 8 ss aes nce see

F—Ornamental varieties of Japanese and Chinese origin........

G—Best varieties of California origin

H—Varieties of California origin not recommended ............

I—Miscellaneous varieties, grown in foreign countries, and in

ORL Svs ceee eek oe Eee Sey gSte cas

Gathering, curing, and shipping the orange crop........

Propagation ... .

Planting systems

Extending the roots in planting............

| rrinayioye) gels

Gum disease, cause of, and remedy for.

Bolting split limbs .

FSntIIEZ A ONMs See RT oe ele. ot. eR ed ete ee Snes

Uses to which oranges may be put .......

PART II—LEMON, THE:

Ciass A—Best foreign varieties to plant
Crass B—Best varieties to plant of California origin ...
CLAss C—Miscellaneous varieties ........

Ciass D—Varieties grown in foreign countries and in Florida .

Grown from seed

Curing, packing,

Buddingy see

GUC Sy eran tei ten ey ae

6 CONTENTS.

PART III—LIME, THE:

CURRIE OR avis aod, it) ge rade Ly SEES A oe te a) SS rere)

PART IV—CITRON, THE:

GUETURE (Ooo: A eh) ne SE OE ENS EST ORE EI 2)
LIGW.TO' PREPARE 43/0 5 hey ae Soa etarhetmirnttsai vielen tigt. isl. OI
BOOKS RECOMMENDED .2:050-/y-) ha hea eae eee soa 95

CONCLUSION Oi) mia dh.) a Mi ea 96

Vi Qe

So? j\

IN TRODMCTORY:

I desire to acknowledge my inability to do the subject of
“Citrus Culture” full justice, owing to the very limited time
at my command in its preparation; but enough is written,
which is of practical experience, to aid those who are em-
barking in the business, and the many who have sought the
information from this Department.

In the preparation of this little work I have been over-
cautious not to put into print too much reading matter, so
that the reader will not have to spend hours in reading before
he discovers what he desires to learn.

I have, since boyhood, exercised great love for the culture
of citrus fruits, especially the Orange and the Lemon, having
been brought up among them.

My father (a pioneer, and member of Colonel Stevenson’s
regiment) was among the first to propagate citrus trees in the
early days of California history.

I have, ever since these events, when there were but few
Citrus Orchards in the State, watched the progress Citrus
Culture has made. Since then we have heard the doctrine of
overproduction propounded, and as the years have slowly
rolled by, the many thousands of acres of trees which have
since then been planted have come into bearing, the demand
increasing as fast as the production, and there is no industry
in this State having a more promising future, and it is bound
to become one of the greatest of all industries of our great
State.

When we compare Citrus Culture in this State with other
countries, with what they must do to raise a crop, the many
diseases they have to contend against, and having all these

8 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

disadvantages they make Citrus Culture pay, then we look to
California’s immense capabilities, where the trees bear unpro-
tected and without care the year round, where diseases among
them are but little known, and how remunerative they are to
the owner, then we glance back to those who have preached
overproduction, who have spent their lives with their faces
turned back, lamenting the good oid days.

We may safely say that in this State Citrus Culture is yet
in its infancy, and look hopefully to its promising future.
Only in the past few years did we know what were the best
varieties to grow, such as would be profitable, and would bear
transportation, manner of packing, curing, etc, but through
energy, persistency, and hard work we have accomplished that
end, and to the world we have made known the quality of our
fruits, which cannot be surpassed. The awarding of GOLD
MEDALS to California at the “NEW ORLEANS WORLD’S FAIR”
for the best twenty varieties against the World, is conclusive
evidence of this fact.

Mr, L. M. HOLT, of Riverside, in his essay on “The Future
of Citrus Culture in California,” read before the Ninth Fruit
Growers’ Convention, said:

The cultivation of the orange in favorable localities, is probably the most profit-
able business to which an acre of ground can be devoted for horticultural and agti-
cultural purposes. It takes time to develop an orange grove, and this fact taken in
connection with the fear of overproduction, keeps the masses from going into the
industry, and hence, the time when overproduction will come, if ever, is pushed
far into the future.

The question of raising a superior orange in California is now settled. This State
not only raises a superior orange, an orange that is king among oranges, but that
fact is recognized by the markets of the United States, and there is no probability
that the present century will see enough oranges produced in California to supply
the spring markets of the Atlantic States. The Mediterranean oranges are being
practically driven from the market, while the Florida orange cuts no figure, as it is
not a competitor. The California crop comes upon the market in the spring when
the system demands an acid fruit, and at a time when there is practically no other
fruit in the market with which it is brought into competition.

The time is coming when train loads of oranges from California will be shipped
across the Rocky Mountains, where now only carloads are sent. It is only about
three years since oranges were first successfully shipped from Southern California to
Chicago. It was then an experiment; a market had to be made in the Western
States. It took time to make it, and yet the market has extended more rapidly

INTRODUCTORY. 9

than the bearing capacity of our orchards, and there has never been a time since the
shipment of oranges on a large scale to the Western States commenced, when the
demand for good oranges did not exceed the supply. And yet, the markets of the
Northwest are only partially developed, and the East has not been touched at all.

Dr. O. P. CHUBB, of Orange, who two years ago was sent
to the Eastern States, by the Orange Growers’ Protective
Union, of Southern California, to establish agencies, in his
essay on the “Future Markets for California Citrus Fruits,”
said:

The rapidity with which California citrus fruits have, within the past five years,
gained a foothold in eastern markets has greatly surprised not only Florida growers,
but importers from the Mediterranean. That oranges, lemons, and limes were pro-
duced on this coast, had, of course, long been known, but active competition in
quantity throughout the States east of the Rockies was neither suspected nor feared.

Florida, however, cannot be materially affected by the increasing importance of
our trade, since her output is nearly or quite consumed before ours is sufficiently
mature to take its place. The only point of contest at issue between these two
sister States in the citrus trade seems to be one of quality and beauty, or, in other
words, a matter of ‘‘ forts,” concerning which a committee expressed an opinion
at New Orleans not long since. ‘The Atlantic cities appreciate fine fruits, and in
this respect there is an opening for our growers to meet Florida in her own chosen
markets, and before her season closes. The lateness of California’s main crop is
her strong hold in those cities west of the Atlantic seaboard. This climatic advan-
tage is an important one, and should be well considered in the selection of varieties
for planting, since the later the shipments are made the better the prices obtained
(at least, such has been the case in past seasons) up to the middle of July, when
strawberries and other small summer fruits interfere. The great Northwest is,
however, capable of absorbing our entire product at remunerative prices as early
or late as it is in fair or fit condition to place. The States west of New York and
Pennsylvania are depending more and more each year on California for spring ship-
ments of oranges, and the heavier consumption is steadily pushing westward. The
people there are all interested in California and her fruit products, and will choose
her oranges in preference to Mediterranean fruit of like quality and price.

By intelligent propagation of imported varieties and stocks, aided by peculiar
adaptation of climate, soil, and methods of cultivation, our horticulturists have
developed new types of flavor, pulp, and peel, which western taste is not slow to
recognize and appreciate. The Washington Navel stands to-day the peer of any
orange known in the market, and is really the autocrat of the price list. Following
this winner of gold medals and golden opinions come the luscious St. Michael, the
sprightly Mediterranean Sweet, the handsome and characteristic Valencia, and late
and various improved selections from the older orchards of seedlings, not to mention
the average seedling, of a quality equal to anything grown on the coast or islands
of the Mediterranean.

All these varieties, as the product of California soil and climate, possess that
happy combination of sugar and acid, of flavor and aroma, which not only pleases
the palate but corrects the bile of the eastern consumer as he emerges from the

2

10 CITRUS CULTURE I[N CALIFORNIA.

ruins of a supertonic winter into the malarious tendencies of a radical spring
warmth mixed with the vagaries of an obstinate liver.

And so he comes to recognize the California orange as not only the proper thing,
but as coming in at the proper time, and he proceeds to put it where it will do the
most good. It is a new and popular prescription from Nature’s California labo-
ratory, and he cries for it daily. The great and growing cities of the Mississippi
Valley are learning to appreciate and consume increasing quantities of this class of
fruits, filling the gap, as they do, between the ham fat of winter and the chicken
broth and fresh vegetables of the heated term in July. This industry is yet in its
infancy on this coast, and we may rest assured that the demand for choice fruit at
high prices will always remain in advance of the supply.

Professor Van Deman, Chief of Pomological Division,
United States Department of Agriculture, in a recent letter,
said:

Having had frequent opportunities to test the oranges of every part of the United
States, and those from Mexico, Jamaica, and the Mediterranean, I am glad to say
that those of our own country are the best of those tested. We not only have
imported the best varieties from nearly every part of the world, but our wide-awake
fruit growers are producing new seedlings, some of which are equal to the best, and
the tendency is constantly upwards.

: (Ga Q
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CA SUA

leaped a ane

VARIETIES, PROPAGATION, PLANTING, DISEASES, ETC.

CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS.
CITRUS AURANTIUM NOBILIS.
CITRUS AURANTIUM BIGARADIUM.
CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIUM.
CITRUS AURANTIUM DECUMANUM.

CITRUS AURANTIUM INDICUM LIMO-CITRATUM FOLIO, ET
FRUCTU MIXTO.

ORANGE CULTURE.

What is most important to the beginner is what varieties to
plant. I have arranged them into classes, Foreign varieties and
Native varieties, by themselves, those that are recommended
to be propagated in one class, and those not recommended
under another. A short description is given to illustrate their
qualities.

Also for the purpose of aiding those who may wish to experi-
ment with varieties not yet introduced. A list of nearly every
known variety is given, together with those that have already
fruited in this State, with comments as to their value. The

descriptions are short, but well serve the purpose.

Meee ORANGE.

CRAP PERT

BEST VARIETIES TO PLANT.

CLASS
The varieties classified under this head are of foreign origin;
their prominence is about in the order named.

They are recommended as marketable and profitable varie-
ties to grow.

WASHINGTON NAVEL. (Bahia, Riverside Navel.)

This orange is the most popular of all foreign varieties
grown in this State. Fruit large, solid, and heavy (Plate 1);
skin, smooth, and of a very fine texture; very Juicy; high fla-
vored with melting pulp; is nearly seedless, only in excep-
tional cases are seed found; tree is a good and prolific bearer,
medium thorny, a rapid grower, although it does not attain a
very large size; bears when very young, commencing to bear
as early as one year old from the bud.

This variety was imported from Bahia, Brazil, in 1870, by

14 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

Mr. William Saunders, of the Department of Agriculture at
Washington. There were twelve trees in this importation. It
was sent out by the Department under the name of Safza, but
was changed to Washington Navel, to distinguish it from a
variety introduced from Australia and grown to a limited ex-
tent in California.

Two of the first trees to bear, aside from the orange house
of the Department, were at Riverside, and as the buds were
taken from those trees it got the name of Riverside Navel.

The late Mr. Wells (Wells, Fargo & Co.) spent the winter of
1873-4 in San Diego, and in conversation with Alexander
Craw, then foreman for J. M. Asher, nurseryman, San Diego,
told him about the Bahia in glowing terms; Mr. Craw sug-
gested that it would be a desirable variety to have in Cali-
fornia. He said he would send for trees, and did so, but the
trees above mentioned were the first to fruit.

This variety is claimed to be a shy bearer in //orzda and
other States, but in this State, after having fruited for several
years, it has proved itself to be a prolific bearer, although
oranges in common in this State will not bear large crops
every year, every other year being an off year, more particu-
larly so with seedlings, producing more fruit one year than
another.

VALENCIA LATE. (Valencia August, Loretto, Rivers’ Late.)

This variety has in the last six years fruited in this State,
and is one of the best varieties grown. (Figure No.1.) The
fruit resembles the Paper Rind St. Michael in color and firm-
ness, but oblong, and being larger in size. Trees of this
variety do not commence to bear young; so much in its favor,
as most of budded foreign varieties commence to bear when
entirely too young, thus checking the growth of the tree.
It is a very good keeper, and a prolific bearer.

Fruit ripens very late, when all others are out of market.

Through mistake, this variety was budded into several hun-
dred trees in the orchard of Col. J. R. Dobbins, at San Gabriel.
They were supposed to be the Navel. These buds were put
into trees in a corner of the orchard, separate from the Wash-

THE ORANGE. 15

Figure No. 1.

ington Navels, that were budded at the same time. When the
Navels began fruiting, these trees showed no signs of bearing
whatever. The Navels fruited for three or four years before
the Valencia Late.

Colonel Dobbins became discouraged with them and con-
cluded to have them rebudded with Washington Navel. But
that year the trees put forth full of bloom, the fruit set well,
and after all others had been shipped, he turned his attention to
this variety, which as yet was hardly ripe enough for shipment,
and to his gratification proved to be one of the best varieties
he had. The trees were double the size of the Washington
Navel. For the last two seasons fruit has been sold at $4
per box, delivered at the station at San Gabriel.

About six years ago Mr. J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles,
had one tree of this variety in bearing for two seasons, and
noticing its late and other good qualities, budded extensively
into ten-year old bearing trees; and two years ago he received
$6 50 per box in Chicago, in the month of June.

16 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

This was $2 per box more than the Palermo oranges brought
in the same market at the same date. The agent reported,
“No shrinkage and no decay.” This variety should be exten-
sively planted in this State.

MALTESE BLOOD. (Figure No. 2.)

This isa very popular variety. The fruit is small to medium,
oval; has a fine texture and flavor. The pulp is marked, and
seems to be streaked and mottled with blood; has few seeds;
tree is thornless.

SSeS act See

Figure No. 2.

Mr. A. B. Chapman, of San Gabriel, who grows this variety
more extensively than any other orchardist in this State,
speaks very highly of it as being one of the best varieties
which he grows. For several years he has made large ship-
ments of it to the eastern market, and the returns obtained
have been very satisfactory to him.

The tree is of a dwarf habit, and can be set closer together
in orchard form.

THE ORANGE. 17

MEDITERRANEAN SWEET. (Figure No. 3.)

Fruit medium to large; pulp and skin of fine texture; very
solid and few seeds; ripens late, often not until May or June.
The tree is thornless, and of a dwarf habit of growth; inclined

tooverbear. This variety is now well known, and much sought
for in our markets. It was originally introduced by T. A.
Garey, of Los Angeles.

RIO.

Fruit and tree resembles the Mediterranean Sweet; but the
fruit is much larger, has a thicker skin, ripens late, very sel-
dom can the entire crop be picked from the tree, as it does not
ripen even; green oranges are found on the trees throughout
the summer.

The tree differs from the Mediterranean Sweet, and the dif-
ference is distinguished from the long shoots that this variety
puts forth resembling water sprouts. These shoots start from
the side limbs as well as from the main or leader, and at the
apex of these shoots numerous lateral branches put forth, form-

18 CITRUS COLTORE IN (CALIFORINTA,

ing a large head, clear above the main mass of foliage; the
tree is thornless, or nearly so, and is of a dwarf habit.

PAPER RIND ST. MICHAEL. (Figure No. 4.)

Fruit small, round, very firm, and very juicy, pale, thin skin,
grows very uniform in size, which is a great advantage in pack-
ing. They require but little assorting. Ripens late and keeps

Figure No. 4.

well on the trees as late as August. The fruit does not drop
from the tree when mature as other varieties do. The tree is
of a dwarf habit, medium thorny, a good bearer, a very desira-
ble variety. Dealers in San Francisco complain that they can
not get enough of this variety for the local market.

ASHER’S BEST.

The growth of this variety is very much like the Mediter-
ranean Sweet; fruit, medium to large; the rind is very thin,
juicy, sweet, and few seeds. It has been claimed to be a strain
of the Mediterranean Sweet. Mr. Asher, of San Diego, after
whom this variety was named, informs me that he bought the

THE ORANGE. 19

tree for the Shaddock, but that after fruiting proved to be a
very desirable variety. It was named after him by the South-
ern California Horticultural Society.

AZOREAN ST. MICHAEL.

Imported by Mr. Chapman, of San Gabriel; fruit, medium
to large, and solid; pulp fine and melting; medium thin rind,
flattened, few seeds; ripens early and keeps well on the tree;
a rapid grower and a prolific bearer; is a large tree, and is
recommended for standard purposes. This variety has fruited
with Mr. Chapman for a number of years, and is considered
by him to be very desirable and profitable to grow.

CLEAP TER:

FOREIGN VARIETIES RECOMMENDED FOR TRIAL.

CL ASStB:

The varieties given under this head, aside from the “ White
and King Orange,” are but little known in this State; they have,
however, began fruiting to a limited extent and may yet prove
to be very desirable. Professor Van Deman speaks very highly
of them and recommends that they be thoroughly tried in this
State; the White Orange should also be given a fair trial, al-
though I doubt if it will ever become popular in the market,
as people prefer that rich color the orange possesses. The
King Orange is also new and well worth to be tried.

JAFFA.

Fruit of medium size, heavy, and juicy, thin skinned, also
very smooth, a remarkably handsome grower, very straight, and
nearly thornless.

MAJORCA.

Fruit medium size, shape nearly round, a very handsome
smooth orange, little pulp and few seeds, heavy and juicy.

HART’S TARDIFF.

Fruit medium size, shape slightly oval, very solid, color pale
yellow, heavy and juicy, ripens very late. In Florida it ripens
in July and August.*

*Has fruited with A, D. Hayth at Riverside. Mr. Hayth says it is a late orange,
but likes Mediterranean Sweet better.

THE ORANGE. 21

PARSON BROWN.

Fruit medium size, shape round, and with very smooth skin;
ripens early.

WHITE ORANGE.

Fruit large, round, light yellow, flesh white, the color of a
lemon when cut open, very sweet, texture fine, ripens late, is
of a dwarf habit, is more susceptible to frosts than most varie-
ties.

KING ORANGE.

A native of Siam, imported by Dr. S. R. Magee, of River-
side; original trees were twenty-five in number. J. E. Cutter,
of Riverside, worked this variety from the original trees on
nine-year old trees standing in orchard, and was thus enabled
to anticipate all others in obtaining fruit.

It appears to be a late orange, ripening in May and June,
averages below medium in size, very rough rind, segments
cleave when fully ripe. It is the highest flavored orange I
have ever sampled; the tree is exceedingly thorny, resembling
the lime. Of all oranges it is the least attractive in tree or
fruit.

CRAP TERT

FOREIGN VARIETIES TRIED AND NOT RECOMMENDED.

CiEASSUG

The varieties named under this head are of foreign origin;
after having fruited in this State for several years, they have
proved to be of inferior quality, and their planting is not
encouraged.

AUSTRALIAN NAVEL.

This tree does not resemble the Washington Navel in its
habit; the foliage does, however, and in this way its identity
has been much mistaken. The fruit varies greatly in size, all
sizes generally being found on the same tree. A very shy
bearer. Blooms profusely, but very few of the blooms set;
often the trees are loaded with fruit, and after having attained
the size of marbles drop to the ground, without any apparent
cause whatever; it also has a tendency to split at the navel.
The navel is usually large and prominent, unlike that of the
Washington Navel, which is round and generally small. This
variety was first introduced into California by the late Lewis
Wolfskill; the trees were imported from Australia in 1874.

HOMOSASSA.

Of Florida origin, and is one of the best varieties propa-
gated in that State. In this State it does not come up to the
expectation of parties who have tried it; deep orange-red
skin, flesh melting and juicy, seeds thorny.

THE ORANGE. 23

LARGE ST. MICHAEL.

This variety does not resemble the Paper Rind St. Michael
in the least. The fruit is large and very coarse; tree thorny;
inferior.

SMALL ST. MICHAEL.

This is not an established variety. It is entirely distinct
from the Paper Rind St. Michael; fruit small; thick, coarse
skin; inferior.

DUROI.

Fruit, small to medium, firm, ribbed seeds, and a few thorns.
Said to do well in Florida; it has not proved so in this State.

Peerless (inferior).
Churchupillas (inferior).
Moores Seedling (inferior).
Moore's Thornuless (inferior).
Charley Brown (inferior).
Fleong Leong (no value).
Teneriffe (no value).

Nutmeg (no value).

St. Jago (no value).

Large Chinese (inferior).
Fliggins (inferior).

Phillip’s Bitter Sweet (no value).
Dixon (inferior).

Lroad Leaf Mandarin (inferior).
Thorny Mandarin (inferior).
Coolie Mandarin (inferior).
Emperor Mandarin (inferior).
Emperor of China (inferior).
Vanigha (inferior).

Flong Kong (no value).
F:-xcelsior (inferior).

Portugal (no value).

Magnum Bonum (inferior).

24 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

Arcadia (inferior).
Florida Bitter (wild orange).
Large Chinese (no value).
Forbidden Fruit (shaddock).
Llood (no value).
Large Blood (no value).

| Nicaraugua Blood (inferior).

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CARPE he TV.

BEST JAPANESE VARIETIES.

CLASS D

The varieties under this head are those which are now being
propagated in California of Japanese origin.

TANGERINE, OR KID GLOVE.

There are several varieties of Tangerines grown in California,
and their true names are not known, as they were imported
under Japanese names, and the labels were lost. Mr. A. B.
Chapman and Horticultural Commissioner A. Scott Chapman
have propagated a Tangerine orange, at their extensive orchards
at San Gabriel, which is the best of that variety grown in this
State. They are the largest growers of this orange in Cali-
fornia.

The fruit is deep red, and quite small. When ripe the rind
is easily detached with the fingers, without the aid of a knife.
It is very sweet, being perhaps the sweetest of all oranges
grown in this State. It is very popular, and a desirable
variety.

A Tangerine orange box is 12 inches wide by 5 inches deep,
and 16 inches long, inside measurement. About 125 to 150
oranges fill the box.

Mr. Chapman first set out the orchard with California seed-
ling trees; and after they had attained a good size, budded
the Tangerine into them, the buds being placed quite high into
the largest limbs. .

The buds were allowed to spread out and grow at will in
this way. The trunks of the trees were soon covered by the

3

26 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

foliage, and in many instances the limbs touched the ground.
The trees became beautiful, and very uniform in shape. This
tree requires little or no outside pruning. The foliage having
a weeping habit, makes it difficult to train as a tree, unless
budded on large standard trees.

SATSUMA, SYNONYMS. (Unshiu, and Oonshiu.)

Fruit of medium size and flattened, rind easily detached, of
exceedingly fine texture, sweet and nearly seedless. The fruit
grows very irregular, all sizes being found on the tree, which
makes them very difficult to pack, even when assorted into
sizes, on account of their shape.

If for shipment they must be picked before mature, for when
ripe the rind is loose from the pulp, and in packing will break
and cause the orange to rot. The tree is remarkably hardy,
having stood unharmed where all others in the same orchard
were badly nipped by the frosts. The fruit from trees grown
in California is much coarser than the fruit imported from
Japan, grown either on our sweet seedling stock, or on the
dwarf (Citrus Trifoliata) stock, upon which they are worked
in Japan. The rind of most of the Japanese and Chinese
varieties have a peculiar smell, and on this account they do not
come into favor in the market.

NAGAMI-KINKAN, OR KINCQUAT. (Citrus Japonica.)

Fruit very small, oblong or olive shaped, rind thick, yellow,
smooth, sweet scented, very little pulp, containing many seeds,
tree dwarf (a bush), a prolific bearer. The fruit is edible whole
(rind and all); the rind has a pleasant aroma, and combined
with its juice makes it very agreeable. It is also valuable for
preserves and marmalade, but the demand for this fruit being
so limited, it would hardly warrant it to be propagated except
for ornament. The eating of too much rind is not healthy.

CEEA rains VF

JAPANESE VARIETIES——-CONTINUED.

Gl 52 oye ial oe
under

The varieties given,this head are grown in Japan, and de-
scribed by the Japanese Agricultural Society. It is not known
whether any of them are fruiting in California. Most of the
varieties imported from Japan, after having fruited in this
State, were given, and are known under different names, un-
like those given below. The original labels having become
lost, it is doubtful if any of these varieties will prove any bet-
ter than those now grown in California.

NATSU—DAI-DAI.

Fruit very large, round, somewhat oblate. Rind thick, with
rough surface. Color, bright yellow in first year; changes to
dull yellow in second year. It also remains on the tree till
the second summer, and then it is palatable. Pulp sweet, sub-
acid, juicy. Good as summer fruit for table use.

Dal-—Dal.
Fruit medium to large round. Rind thick, orange color,
with bitter taste. Pulp sour.

KUNEMBO.

Fruit medium, round, sweet, oblate. Rind thick, deep
orange color; very fragrant. Pulp sweet, delicious. Keeps
well. Very good for table use.

28 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

YAMABUKI-MIKAN.

Fruit large, roundish, conical. Rind thick, pale color. Pulp
sweet, subacid. Good for table use and for keeping.

SAKURA—JIMA—MIKAN.

Fruit small, roundish, oblate. Rind deep orange. Pulp
sweet, juicy, most delicious quality. Very good.

SHIRAWA—KOJI.

Fruit small to medium, oblate, much larger than common
Koji-Mikan. Rind thin, smooth, yellowish. Pulp sweet, sub-
acid, free from bitter taste. Good in quality.

BENI-KoOjl.

Fruit medium, roundish oblate. Rind thin, brilliant reddish
color. Pulp sweet, subacid, with slightly bitter taste. Good
as an ornamental dessert dish.

KIN—K UNENBO.

Fruit medium roundish. Rind thin, orange yellow, adher-
ing to pulp. Pulp sweet. It much resembles the True Sweet
orange in form and color, but little inferior in quality. Keeps
well. Good for table use and for keeping.

IUKO.

Tree very hardy. Fruit medium, roundish, much resembles
Judzu in form; rather smooth on surface. Rind thick, yellow
color. Pulp sweet when quite ripe.

ToOKO-IUDZU.

Tree vigorous and prolific. Fruit small, round. Skin rough,
pale yellow, smell not as good as common /udzu. It keeps
well on the branch of the tree the second year.

THE ORANGE. ; 29

JAGATARA-—MIKAN.

Fruit very large, conical at the end. Rind very thick,
orange color with rough surface. Pulp sweet, subacid, juicy.
Good for table use and for keeping.

MARU-—BUSHIUKAN.

Fruit large or medium; closely resembles the citron in form,
but it has little fragrance and an acid like the citron. Rind
extraordinarily thick. The rind is used for confectionery.

To-—MIKAN.

Fruit large to medium, round or globular, much resembles
the true sweet orange in form. Rind rather thick, orange color.
Pulp sweet, juicy. Keeps well.

KINU—GAWA-MIKAN.

Fruit large, oblate. Rind thin, smooth, yellowish orange
color. Pulp sweet, juicy. Keeps a long time. Good in
quality. ;

BUSHIU—KAN.

Fruit rather large size, quite solid, with scarcely any pulp
or cells, and divided at the end into five or more long, round
lobes, on which account it is called Bushiu-Kan, or Budah-
fingered orange. The rind is pale yellowish color. The fruit
has a most agreeable perfume, and is much esteemed for an
ornamental pot culture. The young fruit is made into con-
fectionery, and is esteemed for its fragrance.

ToS DAI DAL

Fruit much resembles the Yamabuki-Mikan in form, but
slightly differs in color and quality. Pulp sweet and delicious.
Good for keeping.

30 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

BENI-MIKAN.

Fruit small, roundish, oblate. Rind thin, bright reddish
color. Pulp juicy, rich in flavor. One of the best as an orna-
mental dessert dish.

KAWACHI-MIKAN.

Fruit small, roundish, oblate. Rind thin, bright reddish
color. Pulp sweet, subacid. Good for table use and for keep-
ing.

KINOKUNI-MIKAN.

Fruit medium, oblate. Rind thin, orange-yellow color,
smooth surface. Pulp yellowish, sweet, juicy. One of the
best for table use.

Kojl.

Fruit medium, oblate. Rind very thin, pale yellow. Pulp
subacid, with slightly bitter taste. Though it is inferior in
quality, it ripens earlier; and also the flower bud, or even the
flower, is used as a spice.

IUDZU.

Fruit medium round. Rind very thick, yellow, coarse un-
even surface. Pulp subacid, many seeds. Rind fragrant smell,
slightly bitter taste. Much used for cookery and confection-
ery. The unripe fruit and the blossoms are also used as a
spice.

MARUMI-KINKAN OR KINCQUAT.

Fruit very small, roundish or globular. Pulp small, contain-
ing large seeds. It is eatable, rind and all.

NARUTO-—MIKAN.

Fruit medium round, rather large. Rind thick, yellowish,
rough on surface. It is sour in the first year, and remains.
on till second year, when it becomes delicious. Pulp sweet,
juicy. Good as a summer dessert dish.

THE ORANGE. ol

KABUSA.

Fruit large, round; much resembles the Dai-Dai, above
named, in form, color, and quality. It is distinguished for
having a single instead of a double calyx, as the Dai-Dai.
The use and quality is strictly the same as the Dai-Dai.

AMA-—DaI-DAIl.

Fruit medium; much resembles the Kin-kunembo in form.
This will keep as long as the true sweet orange, but is some-
what inferior in quality.

Comments on the above list—From specimens received, and
from lithographic plates issued by the Japanese Agricultural
Society.

INATSU—DAT=DAIe
A species of Pomolo.
DalI—DAI.

Very thick rind and very coarse.

YAMA-—BUKI-MIKAN.

Greenish color, very thick, and coarse.

SAKURA—JIMA—MIKAN.

Very small and flattened, very coarse.

SHIRAWA—KOJI.

Small, with very thick rind and many seeds.

BENI—KOJL.

Very highly colored, with thin rind, and few seeds.

32 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA,

KIN—KUNENBO.
Thin rind and few seeds.
IUKO.

Small, with very thick rind and full of seeds.

ToKo-IUDZU.

Very small, resembles our sweet lemon.

JAGATARA—MIKAN.
POMELO

~Pomolo, with white pulp.

MARU-—BUSHIUKAN.

Resembles the Chinese lemon grown in this State.

ToO-—MIKAN.

Color rusty brown, with very thick rind, coarse, and full of
seeds.

KINU—GAWA-MIKAN.

Very large and bitter.

BUSHIU—KAN.

Bitter, resembles the Chinese lemon. Specimens received
were very unsightly, like a bunch of fingers grown together.

To-—DAI-DAI.

Color, rusty brown; very coarse and bitter.

BENI-MIKAN.

Very small; color deep red; few seed, and very thin rind.

THE ORANGE. 33

KAWACHI—MIKAN.

Resembles the Mandarin. (See Class F.)

KINOKUNI-MIKAN.
Resembles the Tangerine, or Kid Glove. (See Class D.)

Kojl.

Color, dark rusty brown; the rind the thinnest of all Japan-
ese varieties; but with many seeds, and bitter.

IUDZU.

Very thick rind, coarse and bitter.

MARUMI-KINKAN OR KINCQUAT.

Very small; the smallest of all species; the size of a me-
dium size cherry, and full of large seeds.

KABUSA.

Pulp fine, with few seed, but very thick rind; pulp white,
like a lemon.

NARUTO—MIKAN.

Color, rusty brown, nearly black; inferior.

AMA—DAI-—DAI.

Medium thin rind, pulp white, few seeds, color rusty brown,
bitter.

Nore.—The description given by the Japanese Agricultural Society differs greatly
from the specimens received. Out of the entire list the Kinokuni-Mikan, Kawachi-
Mikan, and the Satsuma are the only varieties worth propagating, and that only to
a limited extent.

CHAPTER (Vi:

ORNAMENTAL VARIETIES. (Japanese and Chinese origin.)

CLASS GE.

DWARF MANDARIN.

This tree is very ornamental. The fruit is very red in
color; flattened at the poles; generally has an outgrowth at
the bloom end, resembling the Australian Navel.

When the fruit is unripe it is very bitter; but when fully
ripe, and if the rind is separated carefully, can be eaten. The
rind has a peculiar aroma, which is disagreeable. Through
the summer, when all other oranges are gone, this tree is full
of fruit. As few care for it, the fruit being of such a deep red,
makes it highly ornamental.

POMELO.
RUMALO.

Ornamental only. A tree with large deep green foliage;
fruit very large, weighing from 2 to 5 pounds each; has a
peculiar odor; not eatable, unless in strictly tropical countries.

pQMELO SYN. GRAPE FRUIT (CAL).

This fruit is claimed to be of distinct species, but is a variety
of the Shaddock; fruit of a pale yellow, resembling the Citron;
skin very smooth; pulp subacid, with a decided flavor of grape,
hence its name; tree very ornamental; semi-dwarf.

SHADDOCK. (Mammoth. Figure No. 5.)

Native of China or Japan. It was brought to the West
Indies by one Captain Shaddock, from whom it has taken its
name. It is also known as Pumpel-mouse.

THE ORANGE. 35)

Fruit very large, with smooth skin, pale yellow, and very
glossy. The rind is very thick and spongy, and very bitter;
pulp dark green. Figure No. 5 represents a Shaddock cut
open, showing thickness of rind and pulp.

SHADDOCK. (Blood.)

This variety resembles the Mammoth in all respects, except
that the pulp is red.

BOUQUET.

Ornamental only. Florists value its bloom for its fragrance
and large size, and for this purpose it is largely cultivated.
Fruit very bitter.

BERGAMOT.

Ornamental only, fruit large and very rough, flattened; has
a pleasant aroma; is grown by florists for the bloom.

MYRTLE LEAF.

Ornamental only; tree very dwarf; foliage densely packed
together; small leaf, the shape of the myrtle; fruit, bright red
and very bitter.

VARIEGATED ORANGE.

Ornamental only; tree dwarf; leaf variegated, with white
margin and green center; very glossy; stem white and green;
fruit striped with white, and very bitter.

DWARF ORANGE (CITRUS TRIFOLIATA).

Ornamental—This stock is used for dwarfing purposes. It
is a hardy shrub of the citrus family. The Japanese dwarf
their varieties by budding on this stock, which is of a very
slow growth, and produce orange trees suitable for pot growing.

CHAPTER Vib.

BEST VARIETIES, CALIFORNIA ORIGIN.

CEASS: 2G:

The advantage a good seedling (of home origin) has over
any foreign variety is that it is hardy, and can be planted in
localities where the temperature gets so low as to prevent for-
eign varieties from thriving; they will also make a larger tree.
Such are the varieties given under this head:

WOLFSKILL’S BEST, OR FAVORITE. (Figure No. 6.)

Originated by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. A good
grower. Original tree now stands over thirty feet high, and
as large as any seedling of the same age. The original tree is
not very thorny. Thorns decrease in size as the tree grows
older. Fruit is of excellent quality, somewhat flattened, deep
orange red, fine grain and pulp. A good bearer; early, and
should be picked before May. Ripens ahead of all other
native varieties; is largely cultivated in this State; the choice-
est of all native varieties.

MAYBERRY’S PREMIER.

Originated by E. L. Mayberry, at El Molino Ranch, near
San Gabriel. The original tree (a twin tree) stands about
thirty feet high. The orange is medium in size, but of a deep
red color; rind thin and very smooth; pulp and grain very
fine. The old tree has very small thorns. Budding appears
to improve the growth of the trees. Spring buds generally
make large trees the first year. This variety should be budded

THE ORANGE. 37

Figure No. 6.

on thrifty stocks, able to hold the weight of the bud after a
year’s growth.

BALDWIN’S FAVORITE.

Originated by the late Lewis Wolfskill at the Santa Anita
Ranch, Los Angeles County. Isa good seedling, but lacking
qualities which the two varieties above mentioned possess.

WILSON’S BEST (Lake Vineyard).

Originated by the late B. D. Wilson, at San Gabriel; a good
variety. Original tree is very large and quite thorny.

KONAH.

A California seedling from seed grown on Konah Island.
Fruit large, rough, and thick skin. Tree very horny.and very
hard to keep in shape, ripens early, and is considered by many
to be a very desirable variety. I have found that it will do
better in some localities than in others.

38 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

NEW VARIETIES (Home origin).
COOPER’S SEEDLING.

Originated by Hon. Ellwood Cooper, at Ellwood, Santa
Barbara County. Fruit of medium size, oval; pulp, very fine,
and melting. Color, pale yellow. Very thin skin; seedless.
A thrifty grower, and a prolific bearer—a very desirable
variety.

KERCHEVAL’S QUEEN.

Originated at Los Angeles. Fruit above medium size, ex-
cellent flavor, few seeds, and medium thin rind. The tree is a
vigorous grower.

CELA haiks VET.

VARIETIES OF CALIFORNIA ORIGIN NOT RECOMMENDED.

CAS oveEL.

The varieties under this head are of inferior quality, and
their planting is not recommended, as, since they were intro-
duced, the varieties in Class G have been found most profitable
to grow.

NICARAGUAN.

Originated by the late Dr. J. Shaw, of Los Angeles, from
seed from the Isthmus. Fruit very large, thick-skinned, in-
ferior.

TAHITI.

Originated by the late Dr. Shaw, from seed from Tahiti.
Same as common seedling fruit.

jb. cag be

Originated by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. Raised
from seed imported from Tahiti. Tree very thorny.

WOLFSKILL’S EUREKA.

Originated by the late Lewis Wolfskill, at Los Augeles.
Fruit very small, round in shape. No better than the other
varieties named.

FF xs al
Prilla’ il

Sug D apie. we
Cara NT ite

un Th a 2s. en y
it Tra sl Agi ye mmm é i — a : iy /P
He ay i df Nie Fld i=» LY

CHAP TE ax.

MISCELLANEOUS VARIETIES GROWN IN FOREIGN COUN--
TRIES AND IN FLORIDA.

CLAS Sel

The varieties under this head are the leading varieties grown
in foreign countries, as well as those that in recent years have
been introduced into Florida; also the varieties of Florida
origin. Many of these varieties do well in their native coun-
try, but when planted in this State do not come up to the ex-
pectation of those who have imported them. Nevertheless it
is well to experiment.

Nore.—The varieties imported from these countries, and now fruiting in Florida,
and in California, are left out of this list. They will be found under other heads.

PORTUGAL:

Selecta (highly priced).
China (good, but does not bear transportation).
Navel (same as Australian).

TURKEY.

Candian (considered very good).
Syrian (good).

Chio (common).

Paros (common).

Archipelago (good).

Mitylene (good).

Tenedos (good).

Samos (good).

THE ORANGE. 41

ASIA MINOR.

Scio (light yellow, good).
Parakila (deep red, very large).
Kan (blood red color, and very sweet).

SYRIA.

Accawy (roundish in form, best in Syria).
Lelady (very thick rind).
Shamouty (oblong, thin rind, early).
Lisry (fine flavored).
Tarsus Sweet (common).
Tarsus (sour).

ITALY:

Melangolo (sour stock).
Red Juiced Orange (highly priced).
Double Flowered Orange.
Sweet Orange (citrus bigarradia dulcis).
Mandarin (citrus deliciosa).
Vanigila.
Sicilian (common).
Oval (Marina).
Round (Marina).
SPAIN.

Naranjo Dulct Franco (sweet orange).

Naranjo Bigarrado Franco (sour).

Naranjo Ligarrado Gallesio (bitter).

Naranjo China Ligetima (very sweet thin rind, the most
highly priced).

FHlavana Dulct.

Naranja Cumun (common).

Early Spanish (excellent).

Naranjo Agris (sour).

Catania.

Sour-Sweet (common).

Loretto (similar to Valencia late; specimens show no dif-
ference).

42 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

AUSTRALIA.

Sabina (very good).
Navel.

Paramatta (from Sidney).
Poor Man (from Sidney).
Maltese Oval.

Large Marmalade.

Litter Loose Jacket.
Chinese Oval.

Sweet Seville.

Litter Seville.

AFRICA.

Sweet Orange (common, but good).

Imperial (very large; good),

Royal (small; good).

Silver Leaf.

Double Flower (ornamental).

Violet Flower (ornamental).

Balearic, or Malorea (large; thin skin; productive).
Portugal, or China (fruit very large).

Orange of Nice (very good).

JAMAICA.

Comprida (remarkable for its aromatic flavor).
Ombigo (good).

Lisbon Orange (early and good).

Jamaican (common, but good).

FLORIDA.

Sweet Seville (Golden Angel; sugar sweet; early).
Early Oblong (Thornless Bell, Florida origin).
Egg (Beaches No. 1, Florida origin).

Lotelha (ripens late).

Dulcissima.

Prata.

THE ORANGE. 43

Laquisite.

Cleopatra (very small Tangerine species; of little value).

Old Vint (Beach’s No. 4; Florida origin).

Arcadia.

Prolific (Rivers).

Star Calyx (desirable).

Acris (ribbed and very good).

Centennial, Hart's (very high flavor).

Dr. May’s Best (Drummit).

Nonpareil (Florida origin, early).

Dr. Cogill’s Tangerine (considered very good and above all
others; Florida origin).

Pernambuco.

Mediterranean, Sanford’s (same as Garey’s).

Parson's Navel (like Australian; Florida origin).

Italian Navel (like Australian).

Double Imperial Navel (not as good as Washington).

Bostrom’s Prize Navel (Florida origin).

Richardson's Navel (Florida origin).

Paragon (Tangerine species; of Florida origin).

you (Moragne’s Tangerine, Dancy’s Tangerine; Florida
origin).

China (Tangerine, Willow Leaf).

Ruby (Tangerine species; ruby red).

Golden Variegated (Mandarin species; ornamental).

China Sweet (Mandarin species; of Florida origin).

Cluster Grape Fruit (bears in clusters; ornamental only).

Triumph Grape Fruit (cross between orange and grape fruit).

Markam’s Best (Florida origin).

Fligley’s Late (Florida origin).

Wilder (Florida origin).

Dixon (Florida origin).

Krause (Florida origin).

Pride of Malta (medium size, flattened).

Everbearing (Florida origin).

Otaheite (dwarf; reddish flowers; ornamental only).

Peerless (Rembert’s best; fruit large, good).

Madame Vinous (Florida origin).

Cummingham (Florida origin).

44 CITRUS CULTORE- IN. CALIFORNIA

Tony (Florida origin).

Pineapple (pineapple flavor).

Spratt’s Harmon (Florida origin).

ell (pear shaped; Florida origin).
Pierce's Blood (Cate; Florida origin).
Round Sweet Blood (Florida origin).
Armory’s Blood (Florida origin).

Sall’s Blood (Florida origin).
Mediterranean Blood.

Thornless (Florida origin).

Foundling ( Florida origin).

Debarry's Seedling (Florida origin).
Dr. Starke's Best ( Florida origin).
Dann's Best ( Florida origin).

Mellwood Seeding (Florina origin).
Litter Sweet (Mandarin species).
Osceloa (Florida origin).

Brastilian (inferior).

Oce (Florida origin).

Prata, or Silver (Florida origin).
Beach's, No. 5 (pear shaped; Florida origin).
Phillip’s bitter Sweet (hybrid of wild and sweet orange).
Foster (Florida origin).

[Indian River (tree very thorny).
Militensis (early bearer, strong grower).
Marquis (from Malta).

Navel, Sanford’s (from Belgium).
Orange Lake (Florida origin).

Queen.

Queen of Halifax.

Sustain Navel.

Sirinaggar-Cindra (from Northern Hindostan).
Velvet Peel (ornamental).

Whitaker (Florida origin).

Whitaker, No. 2 (Florida origin).
Mary Brement (Mandarin species).
Indian River Sweet (Florida origin).

CiEAP TER OX.

THE ORANGE CROP; GATHERING, CURING, SHIPPING, ETC.

TIME OF SHIPPING.

In this:State March and April, and even May and June, are
the best months in which to ship the general crop.

Oranges grown in the northern and central part of this State
color much earlier than those grown in the southern counties,
but no oranges are ripe then (excepting early foreign varieties),
but being highly colored, they can be placed in the market in
December and January.

PICKING.

The tree should never be picked clean; only the ripe fruit
should first be picked, thus lightening up the trees. The clean,
bright colored, smooth, fine skin, and firm oranges will always
command the best prices.

ORANGE CURING.

The fruit should be handled with care. It is better to (clip)
stem cut than to pull the orange, as in pulling there is danger
of tearing the skin. The fruit should not be packed fresh
from the tree, as when packed it will heat and sweat in the
boxes at an ordinary temperature, and as the entire contents
in the box becomes damp, there is great danger from rot and
decay. The fruit should be picked in boxes and left under
the tree three or four days, to allow the rind of the fruit to
shrink and to lose the surplus moisture in the rind. Another
way is to place them in heaps in a dry room. Unless the
weather is very cool they go through a natural sweat, in which

46 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

the surplus moisture escapes and the rind becomes tough and
pliable; many unseen imperfections, such as slight bruises,
etc., will develop into spots and permit a more certain selec-
tion of the perfect fruit for market. When the weather is too
cool the oranges do not sweat naturally; they are then covered
with blankets, etc. During the sweating process the fruit
should be carefully examined from time to time; the doors
should always be kept shut, and a current of air should not be
allowed to pass through the room. In three or four days a
slightly sticky appearance will be noticed on the rind; then
the fruit is wiped dry and put into boxes, filling them half
full, and are left in the room until dry; then they are ready
for packing. They should be in such a condition that when
they are packed they will not become loose, so that every time
the car shakes they will knock one against the other; this is
the great secret of loss in fruit, especially when shipped to the
eastern market. |

POINTS IN PACKING.

The fruit should be carefully assorted as to size and color.
Small and large oranges should never be put into the same
box. The wrapper should be careful to reject every bruised
or otherwise injured orange. The packer should be careful
not to put different varieties in the same box in packing.
The oranges should be placed one by one, closely together in
layers, so that there can be no sliding or rolling of the fruit in’
the box. The top layer should project not less than one half
inch nor more than three quarters of an inch above the side
of the box, so that the top, when nailed on, should hold the
layers firmly in their places, even after there has been some
shrinkage of the fruit.

WRAPPING.

The fruit paper used for wrapping should contain as little
oil as possible, so that it will readily absorb and throw off
moisture. Wrapping oranges is regarded by many as being
useless and unnecessary. Experience has taught the orange
growers in the last few years that it is better in every way to
wrap the fruit, for it carries better, especially when the fruit is
to be transported a considerable distance by rail.

THE ORANGE. 47

SIZE OF AN ORANGE Box.

The standard size orange box is twelve inches by twelve,
by twenty-six and a half, outside measurement, with a parti-
tion exactly in the middle. They should be made of light
and well seasoned material, neatly and strongly put together.

STANDARD COUNTS.

The standard counts to the box are eighty, ninety-six, one
hundred and twelve, one hundred and twenty-eight, one hun-
dred and forty-six, one hundred and sixty-four, one hundred
and seventy-six, two hundred, two hundred and twenty-six,
two hundred and fifty, and two hundred and eighty-two.
When the fruit is graded to these sizes, and properly packed
in regular layers, they fit and fill up the box in the best pos-
sible manner. The number of oranges and brand should be
marked on each box. This is important, as buyers always
prefer to know just how many oranges they are buying. The
number contained in the standard box also gives an exact
idea of the size of the fruit.

se 1d att Bl a © I

PROPAGATING, PLANTING, BUDDING, GRAFTING, PRUNING,
DISEASES, ETC.

PLANTING FROM THE SEED.

Questions are often asked, do oranges come true from the
seed? The seed of the orange has seldom been known to pro-
duce fruit equal to that of the parent tree. If the seed of an
orange or lemon is planted, the fruit of that tree will be dif-
ferent from the fruit from which it came; it is in this way that
varieties are produced. However, it comes truer to seed than
most fruits.

SEEDLINGS.

Many who prefer to plant their orchards with seedlings,
generally select the seed from a good orange. For this the
Tahiti orange has been much used, and the trees grown from
it have produced good fruit. Where orchards are planted from
the same seed, many trees differ from others both in foliage
and in fruit.

HYBRIDIZED SEED.

Great care should be taken in planting seed intended to
grow seedlings for orchard planting. The seed should ‘be un-
hybridized. In this State lemons and limes are generally
mixed in the orchard, or in the neighboring orchards, and bees
intermix the pollen of the different flowers. It is in this way
that worthless hybrids are produced. Therefore California
grown seed should never be planted to make a seedling grove.
They will do for stocks for budding upon.

THE ORANGE. 49

TAKING THE SEED OUT OF THE FRUIT.

The fruit is piled into heaps or put into barrels to rot.
When the fruit has decayed so that it will break into many
pieces when handled, it is then crushed in a tub or barrel and
the seed is washed out. A coarse sieve is used; the soft sub-
stance of the fruit will pass through the wires, leaving nothing
but the seed in the sieve. The seed is washed in a place where
water can be used freely, as considerable is required to do the
work properly.

KEEPING SEED IN SAND.

The seed of the orange should not be allowed to get dry
after being taken from the fruit. If you are not ready to plant
them, take and put them in moist sand. In this way they can
be kept until everything is prepared.

How To Put THEM IN SAND.

Take a shallow box, say five inches deep and not more than
thirty inches square, fill it half full of moist sand, then put the
seed on top, about two inches deep, and throw on the top of
the seed considerable sand and mix it together with the hands.
This is done so that the sand will stick to the seeds, and not
allow the seeds to adhere to each other. Then fill up the box
with sand and let them remain until they are to be planted.
The boxes can be stacked one upon the other.

TAKING THEM OUT OF THE SAND.

The seed bed having been prepared, have a coarse sieve, and
take the top box and dump its contents into the sieve. This
must be done with care so as not to bruise the seed; then shake
the sieve, the sand will pass through, leaving nothing but the
seed in the sieve; then empty the seed into a tub of water, all
the imperfect ones will rise to the top. They should be thrown
away, as they will not germinate. Those that sink to the bot-
tom are the ones to plant, for they will be found to be large
_and healthy.

50 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

THE SEED BED.

The seed bed should be inclosed with boards eighteen or
twenty inches wide, set on edge about four to six feet apart.
The bottom should be floored, so as to prevent. gophers and
ground moles from entering the seed bed. In no case should
the seed be sown in a bed in open ground, for a mole in one
night will destroy nearly all the plants. Laths should be nailed
on top, leaving a space of one half inch between them to pro-
tect the seed from being scratched up by birds. A covering
of thin muslin should be put on top of the laths to protect the
young plants from being scorched by the hot sun. If the
weather be cloudy, it is well that the covering be removed to
allow the bed to get warm. It is better to plant the seed
thickly and broadcast; as all plants are to be removed, it does
not matter how thick they come up. The seed should be cov-
ered from one to two inches.

TIME OF PLANTING THE SEED.

Many plant the seed in January and February. This is en-
tirely too early, as the seed will not germinate until spring.
April, and even May, are the best months, as the ground is
then warm and all danger of frost is over. The seed bed
should be kept moist, but not too wet.

TRANSPLANTING.

In one year the plants will be large enough to be trans-
planted in nursery form. A section of the bed should only
be dug up at a time; the plants should be assorted; the very
small and delicate ones should be planted in shallow boxes by
themselves and kept another year; they being so small and
delicate are generally scorched by the sun when planted in the
open ground, and those that do not generally remain small in
the nursery.

THE ORANGE. 51

DISTANCE OF NURSERY ROWS.

The rows should be far enough apart to admit a cultivator
between them. It is a mistake when the rows are set less than
four feet apart, as, when after being budded, many buds are
knocked off by the horse or the traces rubbing against them.
I prefer the rows to be six feet apart. This will give ample
room for cultivation; and also when in digging up the trees a
small narrow sled can be run in to haul them to the head of
the rows without rubbing against the nursery stock.

DISTANCE IN NURSERY ROWS.

Planting close together in the rows will tend to make feeble
and slender trees. If it is intended not to sack the trees when
they are to be taken up, then the plants can be set from eight
to twelve inches apart, and they will make strong and thrifty
stocks, but if it is intended to sack any of them, then it is too
close. They should be at least eighteen inches apart; this will
give the digger enough space to take up trees between others,
which is generally done. As the trees do not grow even, cer-
tain sizes are taken up and others left to grow awhile. It also
has the advantage that the roots are not cut too short, which
is apt to be where they are planted close together.

It is well to protect the trees in the nursery from frost
through the winter by building over them a frame, on top of
which brush is laid thickly; in this way the plants will pass
through the winter unharmed. In the spring, after all danger
of frosts are over, the brush and staging are removed. For this
cypress brush is mostly used.

TRIMMING THE STOCK.

The plants should not be trimmed until at least one year
after being planted; they should be left to grow at will the first
year. If the plants are trimmed when too young they will
make slender and feeble stock. It is better to let the plants
grow for a year, giving them the best of care; then in the fol-
lowing spring, as early as possible, say in February, the plants

52 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

are trimmed, leaving a clear stock. The trimmer should also
remove all thorns for about six inches from the ground, as
they will be in the way of the budder, and all cuts should be
made close and covered with rubber paint, so that they may
soon heal over. The brush is then gathered and burnt. As
the ground is packed by the trimmers, it is loosened by run-
ning a cultivator between the rows; then they are left to be
budded.

SPRING BUDDING.

Generally in the months of March and April, as soon as the
trees begin to put forth, and the sap flows freely, it is then the
time to bud. Everything should be prepared; no time should
be lost, as the buds first inserted will sometimes start in less
than three weeks, with much vigor, and by summer will have
a large and thrifty top. The buds should be looked over at
least ten days after they are inserted, and all those that show
signs of dying should be rebudded, in order to give them an
early start, and that they grow even with the others.

SUMMER BUDDING.

Summer budding is generally done in July and August. It
is not considered as good as spring budding, because the buds
do not start even; and as the greater portion of them start so
late, their growth is so tender by the time winter sets in, that
if they pass through it, become prematurely hardened by the
cold weather, which causes the tree to become stunted.

SELECTING BUDS.

In selecting buds from a tree, nothing but the best buds
should be selected. This point is of practical importance, for
if weak or immature buds are inserted, they remain on the
tree at least a year before starting. Immature or imperfect
buds have often been inserted into trees, as good buds have
been scarce. In order to start them, the tops of the trees
were removed; the buds not being mature, failed to start.
The growth and all suckers were from time to time removed

THE ORANGE. 53

to see if the buds would start; however, they did not, and the
continuing suckering caused the trees to die.

A NEw METHOD.

Meeting with such difficulty in making buds grow on old
wood, led me to carry on a series of experiments, to find, if
possible, a way by which buds would grow in old and large
limbs; that if this was accomplished, it would do away with
having to cut the tops and wait for the new wood to grow,
in order to bud into it.

THE METHOD.

The very largest buds were selected, those having a large
thorn (Figure No. 7). The bud was cut, leaving into it con-
siderable wood, and at least one inch long, taking from the
limb it was cut at least one half of the wood; then with the
sharp point of the knife the wood in the bud was gouged out.

Great care was used not to run the
end of the knife into the bark of the
bud on either side, the wood being care-
fully removed, leaving but a very small
portion of it, only enough to hold the
thorn firmly to the bark of the bud, as
shown in Figure No.7, A. It was then
inserted into the tree, and then wound |
tightly with twine. The end of the BieueenNo) rs
thorn should not be cut, as it causes
the bud to wilt and die. The result of this experiment was
very satisfactory and successful. This was done in spring,
summer, and fall; the buds being large and plump, made
good growth and not two per cent were lost. This budding
is best to be done in the spring, as there is at this time an
abundance of sap. The buds will also take better than when
inserted later. About an inch of the bark above the bud in
a circle can be removed to force the sap into the bud, which
will start before the top is cut away. The top is left on the
tree to protect it. The twine should be left on the trees as

54 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNTA.

long as possible, because the bark is thicker on a large tree
than on a small one; and if the twine is removed too soon the
bark will open, caused by the action of the atmosphere, the
bud will be left exposed and will dry. However, great care
should be taken not to leave it on too long, as it will cut into
the tree. If upon examination it is found that it is working
into the bark, it should be loosened, untied, and tied (with the
same twine) over again. If this work is done in the summer
or fall, the buds must be left to lie dormant through the win-
ter. In early spring the top of the tree is removed, and the
bud allowed to grow; but in no case should the entire top be
removed. At least one large limb should be left to force the
sap into the buds, and all the lower brush on the trunk should
be left to protect it from being sunburned. This is, however,
removed as soon as the buds are able to shade the trunk and
take from it the sap flowing. When these large limbs are re-
moved, the cuts should immediately be painted with at least
two coats of the best rubber paint, to protect them from crack-
ing, and so that they may heal and become healthy.

THORNLESS BUDS.

The advantage in budding with thornless varieties is that
the wood in the bud can be removed with great ease, which is
a great advantage in budding, as when the wood is removed
nearly every bud will take; that is when the wood in the bud
is removed without having to use a knife. There being no
thorn in the bud, the wood is removed from it as easy as the
wood in a peach bud; it also leaves the bark of the bud
uninjured. This can not be done with a thorny bud, as the
thorn is attached to the wood in the bud, therefore the neces-
sity of cutting it out.

GRAFTING CITRUS TREES.

This method is entirely disregarded in this State, Budding
being surer, and the most simple and best. Grafting citrus
trees is not recommended.

THE ORANGE. 55

CurmING OBE GEE TOPS.

It is well not to allow the strings to cut into the tree. They
should be watched. In the spring, as the Nursery trees swell
very fast, three weeks is long enough for the strings to remain
on them; but the tops should not be cut off then. The strings
should be removed, the nursery irrigated and cultivated. This
will force new growth, and the tops should then be cut back
from four to eight inches above the bud. After the bud has
grown about six inches or more, it is tied to the
stock, as shown in Figure No. 8. When the bud
has become stocky and able to support itself, what
remains of the top is cut away, as shown in Figure
No. 8, a. The cut should be made smooth, and
painted with rubber paint. This helps the wound
in healing over, and protects the stock from the
action of the atmosphere. Great care should be
used in the cutting of the tops; that it be done at
the proper time, and that they be not cut so near
the bud as to endanger it. I much prefer to leave a little
brush on the part cut, this to be removed after the buds have
started.

STARTING THE BUD.

When the stocks put forth the buds generally start also;
and the suckers being very tender, are removed by hand
(thumb pruning), breaking at the touch. Some prefer to use
a sharp knife, as in many instances where they are knocked
off with the hand others will sprout around where they were
knocked off. Cutting them with a sharp knife has also the
advantage that no others will grow where any had been cut,
and the cut being made clean will give the tree a smooth
body, and as the tree grows very little ‘sucking will be re-
quired. When they are removed by rubbing with the hand
the trunks generally become rough, and the sucking much
greater.

After the buds have made a year’s growth, they are ready
for market, although two-year old buds are more preferable.

56 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

TAKING THEM UP FROM THE NURSERY.

Lalling System—tlf only one tree is to be taken up, that is
between two others, a narrow trench is made within six inches
of the tree, and just in front of it, and then the tap root is cut
about eighteen inches or so deep, then with a spade a round
oblong ball is cut leaving in it the tree. For this it is better
that two men do the work, as it is more expeditious, and bet-
ter work can be done. The spade should be very sharp, or in
cutting the roots the jar will break the ball. If large roots
are to be cut it is better to use pruning shears to cut them.
When trees are taken up with a sound ball of earth the leaves
will hardly wilt. Citrus trees should never be transplanted if
suffering for water.

PUDDLING SYSTEM.

Puddling is practiced where the soil is so loose that sacking
is rendered impossible; many prefer this system to any other,
as it gives the trees larger and more roots; and where all due
precautions are taken, puddling is the best system, and consid-
erable expense is saved, especially where a large orchard is
planted. To be successful the following rules should be car-
ried out: First, the holes should be all dug before any of the
trees are taken out. Second, the roots of the trees should not
be exposed to the sun, even if only for a few minutes, for the
fibrous roots are so delicate that the sun will dry them and
they will perish.

DIRECTIONS.

A trench is dug on one side of the row, the taproots are
then cut, a hole is made in the ground and filled half full of
water, then soil is thrown into it and worked with a hoe. The
puddle should be thin enough so that when the roots of the
trees are put into it that it will stick to them, at the same time
wetting every part thoroughly. The trees are then taken up;
the man cutting the remaining roots with a spade will cause
the trees to fall into the trench, the soil is shook from the
roots, and they are immediately dipped into the mud, or pud-
dle. They are then handed to a man who places them on

THE ORANGE. 57

wet straw in the wagon; a large canvas, or covering, is placed
on the wagon to prevent the sun from drying the roots. The
wagon is then driven to the field, where the holes were dug
and prepared. The driver then hands the trees, one at a time,
the planter holes the trees in the hole, while his men fill it up
with dirt, first throwing in the moistest; the planter presses
the soil very lightly and goes to the next one. (It is best to
have plenty of help, and the work done as quickly as possible.)
The tree having been set,a basin is made around it and a
couple of buckets of water poured into the basin; this will
cause the soil to settle and keep the tree fresh until water can
be run down the rows in furrows. I have set out several
orchards in this way, and have lost but few trees. An orchard
I set out three years ago in this way proved a great success,
and out of six hundred trees only one failed.

WHEN TO PLANT.

Citrus trees are transplanted at various seasons, preference
being given to one of its dormant periods, occurring during the
year.

Trees transplanted in the winter, when the ground is cold,
will remain in it until spring without growing; therefore it is
better not to transplant citrus trees until the ground begins to
get warm. The nearer an orange tree is to starting new
growth, the greater its strength and root power, and this is the
best time for transplanting; also after they have made their
first growth and before starting the second time in spring.

TOPPING THE TREES.

When a tree is taken from the nursery the tops should be
cut back; the branches should be so cut that in starting will
form a fine shaped head to the stock. This is done because
the evaporation of the leaves is rapid, and in many cases,
where the long tops are left on, causes the circulation of the
tree to dry, and also the bark will shrivel before the roots have
assumed their natural functions. If the leaves commence to
dry, it is better they should be cut, to prevent them from com-
mencing to carry off the fluids of evaporation.

58 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.

The land should be thoroughly worked through the winter,
and prepared to be planted in the spring, when it becomes
warm; also all weeds and stubble plowed under will be decom-
posed and serve as a fertilizer to the orchard. The thorough
working of the soil liberates crude gases and changes the nutri-
tive principles to a form more readily assimilated by the tree.

SOIL FOR ORANGE TREES.

An orange tree should never be planted on heavy low ground,
or on low damp ground, where water can be reached within a
few inches from the surface, and never should an orange tree
be planted on adobe soil; they will always be troubled with
gum disease, and will also be nipped by frosts every year. A
deep, rich, porous soil is not only necessary to insure a good
yield of fruit, but absolutely necessary to give the trees a vig-
orous growth. Trees on heavy adobe or poor soil become
stunted, and will not produce fine fruit. This is a fact that
has been proven generations back, and I need not comment
upon it. What the orange tree wants, and must have to yield
a profitable return, is a deep, rich soil, gravelly or otherwise.
Orange trees planted in a poor soil never become profitable
bearers.

DISTANCES TO PLANT.

Diwarts,«Such as Mangere wSatsuma, ete 4 eee eee ee 10 feet.
Semi-dwarfs, such as Washington Navel
Mediterranean Sweet, Maltese Blood

SUAMichael ii erepatcte cs lg chet ae Ot Cacia OER tetas! Wt 18 to 24 feet.
Standards, such as Wolfskill’s Best, etc...... Bee alee Rete tee 24 to 30 feet.
Seed oS Payer eed owe yin cee ee ah ee LN ty en REE 30 to 40 feet.

NUMBER OF TREES ON AN ACRE WHEN PLANTED.

Square. | Quincunx.

BRS Xo ee tes sd perce ae A Rated ne ee rll! i. of. 426 831
awelveteetscs-)1 oe tent | Uo). og Ue ate Ete aR eRe 303 571
NOUTtEEM Meet Hite fee ees atic: ce etapa eI ee 222 415
pixteen feet seals Oo euanete hike 22,02 oo et Leap Rm TIA ay OLB 170 313
Highteentfeels acoder nya eo ccs eae ey Coane AOR AN 134 247
AWienity eet ee aye LNA ns ior eee Ace cy nates oloaaae 109 199
Wwenty-two,feetern wom Metin vivn i mt ye Der Serene sobs Abie (ete) 173
TRwenty-foute feet fan eae reer arn ene eee eae ae 76 137

Mhinty teeta! Mr Nek Ate eis chee We ane Ram eee hae G0 bate 48 83

THE ORANGE. 59

PLANTING SYSTEMS.

The methods most common in use are the Square and the
Quincunx systems. The most adopted is the Square system,
as the orchard can be changed to Quincunx after being planted,
even after a number of years’ growth. Two other systems are
recommended for standard and dwarf trees. In order that
they be better understood the illustration is given, showing the
rows of the standard trees and the rows of dwarf trees by
themselves. The distances given
need not be adopted, but may be
changed to any which may best
suit the planter. However, the
distances recommended are such
as generally have been adopted.

THE SQUARE SYSTEM.

This system is the most adopted
by the fruit growers. In this the
orchard is laid off in lines, crossing
each other with equal intervals of
space, and a tree is planted at each
crossing of the lines. This system
is much preferred to any other, because it can be changed to
quincunx, by simply planting a tree in the center of every
four.

Figure No. 9.

QUINCUNX SYSTEM. (Fig. No. 10.)
(for Standard and Dwarf trees, also for Standard,
or Dwarf trees set by themselves. )

The orchard is laid off in the same
manner as for square planting, except
that the number of rows is doubled.
The standard trees are planted on the
outside row, and the dwarf trees are
planted in the center of every four
standard trees (Fig. No.9). If it is de-
sired to increase the number of dwarf
trees, then the outside row is planted
> with dwarf trees, and a standard tree
Figure No. Io. is planted in the center of every four.

60 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

DOUBLE SQUARE SYSTEM.
(Figure No. 11.)

Standard and Dwarf Trees.
Standard trees 34 feet apart each way; Dwarf
trees 10 ft. and 12 ft. from the Standard trees.

& Soa Y

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ta Bon aa

This system is somewhat new in
this State, but is coming into favor,
especially by those setting out seed-
lings and varieties of home origin
for Standard purposes. As the
Standard trees do not come into
bearing for several years, Dwarf
trees are planted between, as they
bear several crops before the others
begin fruiting. They will also re-
main small, and will not interfere
with the Standard orchard trees.

ase¢Sadcat 2a
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Figure No. 11.

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ANOTHER SQUARE SYSTEM.
(Figure No. 12.)
For Standard and Dwarf Trees.
This is exactly the same as the
square system, only that the rows are
doubled, Dwarf trees being planted in
between the Standards.

EXTENDING THE ROOTS.

It is a common practice among
growers to place the tree in the hole,
fill it up with soil, and then tramp it.
As the roots are covered with thick g 4
mud they will stick together, and if Figure No. 12.
the tree grows it will not do as well
as when the roots are extended with care. This is very sim-
ple. The hole is half filled with earth, so as to form a mound
in the hole, the shovel handle is driven down in the center of
the mound, and on being withdrawn a deep hole is left, suffi-
ciently large and deep enough to admit the taproot of the tree,
then the roots are spread over the mound (Figure No. 13), the
soil is lightly pressed; heavy tramping is not necessary, as the

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THE ORANGE 61

Figure No. 13

water settles the dirt and keeps the roots in place. Soon after
the trees have been watered, and as soon as the water in‘the
basin has disappeared, the basin is covered with loose soil;
this will protect the tree from getting dry and also from lean-
ing over. Trees planted with these precautions make the best
growth and become the thriftiest.

PRUNING.

When trees have been allowed to grow at will for several
years before they are pruned, most of the inside brush will be
found to be dead, and to remove it requires considerable work
and skill, for if in removing a branch a hole is made that will
allow the hot sun to enter, it will scorch the bark; the fine
brush will also die, and diseased trees are sure to be the result.
I have often read articles wherein the writers advocate, “that
the trees be opened so as to allow plenty of air and sun-heat
to enter.” This advice comes from men having no practical
kaowledge; men who are ever willing to tell, but who cannot
do it themselves. I am sure that no one having an orchard,
depending upon that alone for a livelihood, would ever follow
or give such advice. It is not practical and should be disre-
garded.

Figure No. 14 is a good illustration of how a tree is left, or
what remains of it, after the brush that protects the trunk and
branches is removed. The trunk and inside growth is left
exposed to the sun’s heat.

62 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

I have often seen trees where the bark had been scorched
and had dried on the south side of the tree, being the result
of removing the brush that protected it.

Figure No. 15 illustrates a high trained tree of the same age.

Figure No. 15.
In this the lower limbs have been removed, leaving a clear

stock, so as to allow the horse in cultivating to pass under its

branches, and the cultivator to work the ground close to the
trunk.

THE ORANGE. 63

Figure No. 16.

Figure No. 16 illustrates a low trained tree of the same age
as Nos. 14 and 15. In this the lower limbs have been allowed
to remain to protect its trunk and inner growth. The inside of
the tree is kept clear of all dead wood, and no limbs have been
allowed to cross each other, as when two limbs cross each other,
if one of them is not removed, both limbs will be cut in two by
the friction caused by the wind.

ADVANTAGE OF LOW TRAINED TREES.

There are several points that should be taken into consider-
ation, ¢. e.: In summer the trees must be irrigated. If trained
high the sun-heat will bake the ground under the trees before
it can be worked; as the cultivator cannot run close to the trunk,
it must therefore be worked by hand. When trees are trained
low, the shade of the branches keeps the ground moist, and in
case of the excessive heat, or scarcity of water through the
summer, the trees will not suffer; whereas the heat causes the
leaves of high trained trees to curl, and if not watered at the
proper time, the growth of the fruit is checked. Low trained
trees become better balanced, vigorous, healthy, and more pro-
ductive than when trained high, also become straighter, and
the fruit is much more easily and cheaply gathered.

64 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

GUM DISEASE.

This disease is first detected close to the ground, and also
upon the trunk of the tree, and also on the limbs. It is a yel-
low gum which forms on the outside of the bark. It is an
exudation of the sap of the tree which breaks through the
bark and forms a gum. For several years various remedies
were tried, but none proved effectual, for how could they; for
the disease was not on the outside of the bark, as many did
suppose, because they saw the gum running down the trunk.
The disease is under the bark, and also will be found to have
entered the inner bark, and in bad cases deep into the wood.

REMEDY.

Cut away the bark surrounding the place from where the
gum is oozing. When this is done, it can be detected where
the main affected parts are. Then cut into the wood with a
half-moon chisel or gouge, until all the parts from where the
gum is oozing is removed; then leave it stand for a couple of
days ; then, if on examination it is found that the gum is still
running, cut away more of the wood, until every particle of
the disease is taken out. (Generally, if any is left, yellow
streaks are seen in the grain of the wood, which are traces of
it.) Then leave it alone for one or two days. If, on examina-
tion the second day, no more gum is seen, or any trace of it
whatever, then it is a sign that all of it has been taken out.
The wound must then be covered with some substance, so as
to not allow the action of the atmosphere from cracking the
wood left exposed, as it may injure the tree. If the disease
has gone clean around the tree, then it is too far gone, and
there is no cure for it. In such cases it is better to remove the
tree and place a healthy one in its place.

COVERING THE WOUND.

The simplest of all substances is rubber paint, manufactured
by the Pacific Rubber Paint Company, at San Francisco. At
least two coats should be given it. This will prevent the
wound from cracking, and help it to heal.

THE ORANGE. 65

DISEASED CHIPS. AND SCRAPINGS.

They must be put into a can as soon as taken from the tree
and burned. They should not be left on the ground, as in
irrigating the water will take them to healthy trees, and as
the substance is gummy, and as the germ of the disease is not
dead, will stick to the bodies of healthy trees, and the germ
will grow, and will cause serious trouble.

THE CAUSE OF GUM DISEASE.

Many claim that it is not a disease, but that it is only
caused by too much irrigation and neglect of cultivation at
the proper time. While this is partly true, it is a disease pro-
duced not alone by excessive irrigation, but also by the tree
being struck with the hoe in cultivating, or by the cultivator or
plow. I have also seen the gum flow from the bark, caused
by the hames of the harness of the horse rubbing in cultivat-
ing; also where trees had been shot by hunters, and by being
hit with rocks by boys while trying to knock oranges off the
trees. Therefore it must be seen how much a tree needs to
be protected by the cultivator as well as from intruders into
the orchard, for often the gum oozes from having a limb
broken by persons who, in picking an orange, care little for
the tree as long as they get the orange upon it. Other dis-
eases, such as DIE BACK, RUST, ROOT ROT, etc., are not
known in California.

CUTTING THE TOPS OF GUM DISEASED TREES.

Many have been led to believe that when badly diseased
trees begin to show signs of decay that they can be restored
to perfect health by simply removing all the limbs, to force
them to make new growth. The trees, of course, put forth, and
the new shoots will bear fruit until life still remains in the tree,
for generally there are a few healthy roots that keep the trees
alive. But such trees will never be of any value, and what
fruit they will bear will be very coarse, and much inferior to
that once borne by them. They generally remain green for
a long time, but such trees cannot come to life again.

66 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

BOLTING SPLIT LIMBS.

When trees grow with limbs forming a fork, they generally
split in the center, caused by the heavy burden upon them.
As soon as they are discovered, “that is, before they break
down,” they should be bolted together. (Figure No. 17.) If
the limbs fall upon the ground they must be cut back consid-
erably, to lessen their weight. They are then lifted up and a

Figure No. 17.

bolt passed through them. A large washer should be placed
at each end. The bark in time will grow over the bolt. In
this way valuable trees are often saved. The bolt should be of
galvanized iron or steel. Wrought iron should not be used, as
it will corrode too fast, and may cause the loss of the tree.

FERTILIZATION.

Mr. A. SCOTT CHAPMAN, of San Gabriel, who has had
perhaps more experience with fertilizers in this State than
any other person, has this to say on the subject:

Plants feed on the same elements, but in varying proportions. Among the most
important may be mentioned phosphoric acid, potash, lime, magnesia, and nitrogen,
which are found only in small available quantities in the soil, although they may
exist in large quantities in an unavailable condition.

According to Professor Johnson, ‘‘from 95 to 99 per cent of the entire mass
(weight) of agricultural plants is derived directly or indirectly from the atmosphere.
And from the atmosphere the crop can derive no appreciable quantity of those
elements that are found in the ash.”

wine ORANG FE. 67

To the soil, therefore, must we look for our supply of plant food, by rendering
available the inert material, and when that quantity is too feeble to supply arti-
ficially what it may be deficient in.

The soils of Southern California are generally deficient in phosphates, a most
necessary constituent of plant food, and generally the first to become exhausted.
They are, as a general thing, rich in potash, and nitric acid, the conveyor of
nitrogen to the plant, depends greatly on ourselves, nitrates being formed by the
oxidation of ammonia in the soil, derived from the slow decay of organic matter in
the soil, and proceeds most rapidly at a temperature of 70° to 80° F., which
accounts for an abundance of acid in the summer, and a lack of same in early
spring. The formation of nitrate of potash is a most interesting study to the
farmer. Only within the past few years has it been discovered that the nitrate is
formed through a fermentation produced by bacteria in the presence of humus,
lime, and potash.

The carbon of the plant is derived through the leaf from the carbonic acid of the
atmosphere ; therefore may weeds become beneficial to the soil. By being matured
and plowed under they keep the soil in a fine mechanical condition, retentive of
moisture. They supply nitrogenous material for oxidation into nitric acid. They
supply the water of the soil with carbonic acid, which has a ‘‘high solvent power
on the carbonates of lime, magnesia, protoxide of iron, and protoxide of manganese.
When carbonated water comes into contact with siliceous minerals they are decom-
posed much more rapidly than by pure water.”

The general mode of fertilizing in this country seems to be principally tillage,
with an occasional dressing of some manure once every two or three years, and
copious irrigation. Now, it would seem that this constant irrigation with pure
water, as it is in the San Gabriel Valley, would wash from the soil its soluble salts,
not only depriving it of them, but to an extent leaching and making the soil less
subject to hydroscopic water. And again, when thorough tillage is resorted to, to
the exclusion of manure, it stimulates the soil beyond the powers of endurance, the
vegetable mold is rapidly used up, the available phosphoric acid reverts to an insolu-
ble condition, and the soil thus left in its primary condition is subject to bake and
form hardpan. And again, where heavy manuring is resorted to, say once in
three years, as is sometimes done here, then do parts of the plant food revert to an
inert form, and the great quantity of organic matter becomes acid, and sours the
soil unless it be an exceedingly calcareous one.

On my father’s place, at San Gabriel, we choose to manure lightly and often, by
shoveling sheep manure into the irrigating ditches, allowing each tree to receive
about twenty-five pounds at each separate irrigation. Our basins cover the entire
surface of the ground. We make no effort to choke such weeds as clover, alfilerilla,
and the like; but the irrigator with his hoe destroys the obnoxious nightshade,
hoarhound, and nettle.

In the fall of the year we follow with a copious liming—about three barrels of
unslacked lime to the acre—applied in the following manner at the head of our
irrigating ditch: .We plant a box about three feet wide, six feet long, two feet
deep, and six inches under the surface of the running water. In it we place a
barrel of the lime. It slacks and swells to twice its original bulk. A man stands on
this with his hoe, and sees that the water carries it off evenly. With an irrigating
head such as we use a man will run into the ditch four barrels a day, or about
three barrels to the acre. We now leave the orange orchard till spring, when we

68 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA,

plow under weeds, manure, and lime. We thus aim to supply our soil with nitrate
of lime, potash, and magnesia. Carbonic acid gas is absorbed by the water, and
attacks the inert plant food in the soil. Hardpan is prevented, both by the
mechanical effects of the vegetable matter and the lime.

The present outlook for the crop in the southern part of this State is not large ;
but the fruit is of larger size and better quality. But in those particular places
which have been called to my notice, where they have fertilized, the crop is heavy.
Peculiarly is it so in Riverside, where these people deal in corners in sheep manure
and commercial fertilizers. The effect of the fertilizers on the Australian Navel in
our orchard is very marked, for it generally happens that there are on this tree a
great many oranges that do not develop the proper characteristic. This year the
stamp of the fertilizer is plain.

We have walnut trees on our place at San Gabriel that we have not plowed for
two years; but we have thoroughly fertilized them, and never before did they bear
as many and good a crop as this fall, and I may say the same of our lemons. And
again, we have a particular plot of about five acres in our orchard where we have
not allowed a weed to grow, cultivating after each irrigation; but this orchard was
fertilized with sheep manure at each irrigation, and limed last winter at the rate of
ten barrels tothe acre. These trees will average twelve feet in diameter and fifteen
feet in height. They are literally covered with fruit, and will average six boxes to
the tree.

USES TO WHICH THE ORANGE MAY BE PUT.

ORANGE WINE.—Take one part orange juice, well strained;
one part water; three pounds sugar per gallon. Any kind of
sugar will do, and the darker the sugar the richer will be the
color of the wine. For each ten gallons put up keep about one
gallon of the same for refilling the casks during fermentation.
Lay casks on the side, fill full, and leave bung open. Do not
let it be exposed to much cold. Fill up the casks every day,
from the quantity kept out, as the scum is thrown off, and
watch closely until the wine passes through the stage of alco-
holic fermentation. This will usually require from ten to
twenty days, or longer if the weather is cool, and can easily
be determined by scum ceasing to rise, and the cessation of
brisk fermentation. When it arrives at this stage, place the
bung in loosely. Watch closely for a few days, and as active
fermentation ceases, put the bung in fast. Let it stand two
months, then rack off carefully into clean casks. If perfectly
clear, seal and let it stand six months, when it may be bottled.
If not clear, it should be racked off a second time in two
months after the first time, and sealed for six months before
bottling. Be sure your casks are full, for contact with the air

THE ORANGE. 69

will cause the wine to pass into acetic fermentation. Consid-
erable wine from oranges has been manufactured in Florida,
and the demand for it has been very good at $5 per gallon.
The wine continues to improve with age.

ORANGE CUSTARD is very nice made in the usual way,
using the juice of one large orange to each pint of milk.

ORANGE ICING is made by adding to the eggs and sugar
the juice and grated rind of the orange.

ORANGE CAKE is made by adding the juice and grated rind
to the other ingredients. Layer cake is made by beating eggs
and sugar together, as for frosting, and adding the juice and
grated rind of the orange, and spreading between the layers.

ORANGE PUDDING.—Four large oranges. Peel and cut
into pieces. Add one cup of sugar, and let it stand. Take -
one cup of nearly boiling milk, and stir into it four tablespoon-
fuls of corn starch, mixed with a little water and yolks of four
eggs. When done let it cool, and then mix with the orange.
Use the whites of two eggs with one cup of sugar for frosting.
Spread over the top, and place it in oven until brown.

RICH ORANGEADE.—Steep the yellow rinds of six sweet
and two bitter-sweet oranges ina quart of boiling water;
closely cover for four or five hours. Make a syrup with a
pound of sugar and three pints of water. Mix the infusion
and syrup together. Press in the juice of a dozen sweet
oranges and two bitter-sweet, from which the rind has been
taken. Stir thoroughly, and run through a jelly bag. Seal
hot to keep for use.

ORANGE SOUFFLE.—Make a soft custard of one pint of
milk and the yolks of five eggs. Take two large oranges.
Grate the rind of one of them. Pare and slice them thin, and
put with the grated rind in a dish. Pour the custard over
them. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, sweeten them well,
and flavor slightly with vanilla. Put this on top of the cus-
tard, smoothing it over with a knife. Put the dish in a pan
filled with hot water, and set in the oven to brown.

ORANGE MARMALADE.—To three pounds of oranges allow
three pounds of sugar. Wash and brush the fruit. Put on

70 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA,

the stove in boiling water, just sufficient to cover them, and
boil until quite tender. Cut the fruit in halves. Scoop out
the middle with a spoon. Pinch out the seed and white skin.
Cut the rinds into chips. Take a pint of the first water the
oranges were boiled in; add to it the sugar, chips, and pulp,
and after it comes to a boil let it simmer until clear. To
every dozen oranges add the juice of three lemons.

ORANGE JELLY.—Take five oranges and one lemon. Take
rind off two of the oranges and half of the lemon. Put them
in a basin, after removing the pith, and squeeze the juice of
the fruit into it. Then put four ounces of sugar into a stew-
pan with half a pint of water. Add the juice and peel, and
set the mixture on to boil. Then put in one and a half ounces
of isinglass or gelatine and a gill of water. Let it boil for a
few minutes, stirring it well, and pass it through a fine sieve
or jelly bag into a mould. A few drops of cochineal may be
added to give it an orange tint. This jelly does not require
to look clear.

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VARIETIES, CURING, SHIPPING, BUDDING, ETC.

CITRUS MEDICA LIMONIUM.

CITRUS MEDICA LIMON FRUCTU CITRATO.
CITRUS CITRATA SCABIOSA ET MONSTRUSOSA.
CITRUS LIMONIA DULCIS.

vg
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rete AC) IN:

Cr Arn OW.

BEST VARIETIES TO PLANT, ETC.

CLASS: A:

There is no fruit that has a more promising future in this
State than the lemon. It is a tree that fruits well, blooms all
the year round, and is ripening its fruit in every month of the
year. The best varieties should only be planted—such as will
undergo the curing process.

A marketable lemon should not be large, but of medium
size, sweet rind, and strong acid.

The common seedling lemon does not pay to grow; its
keeping qualities are very poor; if put to curing, as soon as
it leaves the process will be found to be worthless, as almost
every lemon will show signs of decay. Therefore it cannot be .
expected that lemons of inferior quality will pay their culture.

The varieties described under this head are of foreign origin,
and are recommended (excepting the sweet lemon) as being
marketable, prolific bearers, good keepers, and such as the
fruit growers should plant for profit.

LISBON.

Imported from Portugal. Fruit is of medium size, fine
grain, sweet rind, and very strong acid; very few seeds. The
fruit grows very uniform on the tree, a good keeper, and a
prolific bearer. Lemons can be picked from the tree at any
time of the year:

The tree is a strong grower, and makes a larger tree than

the other varieties described under this head. Is quite thorny,
6

74 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

but thorns decrease in size as the tree grows older. A very
desirable variety.
VILLA FRANCA.

Imported from Europe. Is of a medium size, considered
to be the finest of all lemons grown. This lemon has fruited
in Los Angeles for several years in the orchard of J. W. Wolf-
skill. Fruit oblong, slightly pointed at the blossom end, rind
thin, without any trace of bitterness, even when green, acid
strong, juicy, nearly seedless. Tree thornless, branches spread-
ing and somewhat drooping, foliage sufficiently abundant to
prevent the fruit from scorching. This variety has the name
of withstanding a lower temperature than other imported va-
rieties.

GENOA.

Imported from Genoa by Don Jose Rubio, of Los Angeles.
Medium size, oval, sweet rind, thornless, and nearly seedless.
Tree is of a dwarf habit, a good keeper, one of the best.

ASIATIC:

Imported by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. Fruit me-
dium size, oval, thin rind, without any trace of bitterness under
the most careful tests. Tree and fruit resemble the Genoa,
but a better acid, thornless.

SICILY:

This lemon was about the first cultivated in California.
Since then many other varieties have been introduced which
are far its superior. However, if put through the proper treat-
ment will produce a good lemon.

SWEET LEMON (Sweet Lime, Lima).

This variety was cultivated by the early settlers; it must,
therefore, have been introduced by them from the seed or cut-
ting. The fruit is different from all other citrus fruits. It is
not like an orange, resembling the lemon. General Vallejo
says “that he remembers having eaten this fruit at Monterey
in 1822, and that he saw trees that same year growing at the
San Gabriel Mission.” The fruit is very sweet, although the
pulp is very coarse, is esteemed by many, especially for its
sweet scent, but the demand for it is very limited.

Cia Pree Ae Lee

BEST VARIETIES OF CALIFORNIA ORIGIN.

CI@aSS B.
EUREKA.

A native of California, originated by C. R. Workman at
Los Angeles, from seed imported from Hamburg in 1872,
only one seed growing, from which buds were put by him on
orange stock. Introduced to the public by T. A. Garey, of
Los Angeles. Fruit medium size, sweet rind, a good keeper,
considered by many to be the best, but the drawback it has is
the leaves are inclined to curl, scarce foliage, fruit produced
at extremities of branches and liable to get sunburnt; does
better when grown on large seedling orange stock; the tree is
thornless.

AGNES.

Originated at National City by Mr. Frank A. Kimball. This
lemon is of superior quality, medium size, sweet rind, pulp
very fine, with strong acid and very few seeds; thorns few,
short and blunt, is a rapid grower, but drooping in character;
medium dwarf. This lemon has fruited for six years with Mr.
Kimball, and has proved itself to be a good keeper and a very
desirable variety.

OLIVIA.

Originated by George C. Swan at San Diego. Fruit of
medium size, and said to be of excellent quality; strong acid,
and a good bearer; thorny.

GARCELON’S KNOBBY.

Originated by G. W. Garcelon at Riverside. The fruit is of
medium size; when cured very thin rind, juicy, and the tests
have found it to contain more citric acid to its size than other
lemons:

Cilia TERN,

MISCELLANEOUS, VARIETIES.
Ci Aso UG.

The varieties under this head are of no practical value, ren-
dered so by the bitterness of the rind, and bitter acid. They
should be discarded.

CALIFORNIA SICILY.

This name has been given to the common Seedling Lemon.

BOUTON.

Originated by General Bouton, at Los Angeles. A vigor-
ous grower; sweet rind, when cured, but tree very thorny;
fruit full of seeds; a poor keeper.

BONNIE BRAE. (Higgins Lemon.)

Originated by H. M. Higgins, of San Diego. <A vigorous
grower; tree thorny. The foliage is different from any other
lemon, resembling the foliage of the Chinese Lemon. Size
medium; rind thin, bitter. Fruit ribbed, somewhat like the
Muskmelon.

SWEET RIND.

A California seedling. Fruit very large; tree very thorny;
inferior.

THE LEMON.

~I

bo |

CHINESE LEMON.

This variety was extensively cultivated in California as a
stock for budding the orange upon. This practice was soon
abandoned, for it was found by practical experience that the
fruit grown upon it was very coarse and sour, which rendered
it unmarketable. The root begins to decay about the second
or third year after the buds begin fruiting. The root is not
strong enough to hold the weight of the top made by the
orange bud, and, being brittle, the trees are blown down by
the wind. The fruit is used for preserving purposes, similar
to the citron. In California it has never come into favor.
The tree is a dwarf. It fruits all the year round.

Oe (ye atl Ba EADS

VARIETIES GROWN IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES AND IN
FLORIDA.

CE ASS: 32

The varieties under this class, marked with an asterisk (*),
are grown in Florida, and are considered of great value there.
The others on the list are grown in foreign countries; and it
is not known if any of them have as yet been introduced
either into Florida or California.

* EVER—BEARING.

Fruit large and coarse. Decreases in size as the tree grows
older.

* LAMB.

Fruit medium. Strong acid. Said to be a good lemon.

* BIIOU;

Claimed to be a remarkable lemon, ripening much earlier
than others.

* VARIEGATED.

The leaves are mottled with white. Very ornamental.

* NAPOLEON.

Said to be a good shipping lemon. Thin rind; oblong
shape, of medium size. A prolific bearer.

THE LEMON 79

AUGUST.

Generally ripening in August. The tree is a rapid and
vigorous grower. A good shipper. Has a smooth skin, and
elongated in shape.

* BELAIR—PREMIUM.

This variety is considered to be one of the best. The tree
is strong and thrifty. Fruit of a medium size, and. without
bitterness.

* FRENCH’S SEEDLING.

This tree is a strong grower. Almost thornless. Fruit
quite small.

* Valentina.

* Leghorn.

* Neapolitana.

* Makay (Florida origin).

* Miranda (Florida origin).

* Lemonia Trifoliata (dwarf, ornamental only).

* Variegated (ornamental only).

* Belair (Florida origin).

* Limonium Trifoliatum (a hardy species of lemon, fruit the
size of a lime; edible).

* Malta.

* Waring's Seedling (Florida origin).

* French or Florida (used for stock).

ITALY:

Genoese (said to stand the longest transportation).
Garden Lemon (inferior).

Bergamot (cultivated for the essence only).
Neapolitan (a greenish fruit, said to be good).
Mela Rosa (a small ribbed lemon).

Paradise (fruit very large, used for confectionery).
Limonum Tenno (too tender for transportation).
Limonum Oblongum (considered very good, but coarse).
Citrus Limo (valued for its medical virtues).
Cummunts. 2

Suacco.

80 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA,

SPAIN.

Castilian (prolific).
Royal (very large).

TURKEY.
Canadian.
Chio.
Paros.
Messina.
Sweet Lemon (citrus lumia).

MOROCCO.

Roman,
Melaroce.
St. Jerome.

Ld Ws
Wy NY

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iE We i Fay ;
: rk es

CHAP VERS XVI.

LEMONS. (From seed.)

Lemons grown in California from seed generally produce
poor fruit, with a bitter rind, and very poor keeping qualities.

The fruit is generally very large, quite puffy rind, which
destroys their commercial value.

LEMON STOCK. (From seed.)

Lemon stock grown from seed make better trees than those
propagated by cuttings. The roots are healthier; but as the
lemon stock is subject to the deadly Gum disease it has
been discarded, and is not recommended. About the time
the trees come into bearing the roots will begin to show signs
of disease. This trouble will continue until the tree dies or is
removed.

This Gum disease will appear sooner on trees planted on
heavy or adobe soil, or on soil that requires irrigation in the
summer. It is claimed by some that if the trees are planted
on dry, sandy soil, or on sidehills, where there is considerable
drainage, that the Gum will not make its appearance. That is
partly true. The tree will be less subject to the disease; but
I have seen.many trees on sandy, dry ground as badly affected
with the Gum disease as those planted on heavy bottom land.

FROM CUTTINGS.

The lemon grows readily from the cutting. The cuttings
can be planted in the spring and through‘the summer. The
smaller the cutting the better, but not too small, as in a very
short time the wound made by the cut at the end of the cut-

82 GITRUS COLTURE IN“CALIFORINIA.

ting will grow over, and make healthy roots, and produce a
better tree than the large cuttings.

WHAT TO BUD THE LEMON ON.

- It has been claimed that if the lemon be budded on any-
thing but lemon stock, that the lemons will lose their elon-
gated shape, and that they will become roundish, especially if
budded on the orange.

I have often observed roundish lemons on trees budded on
orange stock, but they are so few that it is hardly noticeable.

One fact must be borne in mind, and that is that the orange
is less susceptible to Gum disease, and that it is hardier, and
more able to support the heavy weight of the fruit and foliage;
and also, that lemons budded on orange stock never blow
over; and another fact that cannot be contradicted is, that
the quality of the lemon grown on orange stock cannot be
surpassed,

CAAA PF Bay 2c LT.

LEMON CURING, PACKING, ETC.

SizKSit7Tvo: PACK.

If possible pack only the following numbers in each box,
which are the standard sizes, viz.: two hundred and fifty, three
hundred, and three hundred and fifty.

SHIPPING.

After being neatly packed, and the covers carefully nailed
on, they are ready for shipment, but in no case should the box
be allowed to stand exposed to the sun for hours in the wagon
in which they are hauled from the orchard to the cars or depot.
The load should be covered with a thick canvas to protect
the fruit from the sun’s heat. While in transit, all these pre-
cautions are very necessary, as much fruit is often ruined lying
in the strong sunshine at the depot, or on board of the wagons,
awaiting transit to cars.

LEMON CURING.

Clip (stem cut, do not pull) the lemons when fully grown
and beginning to show a faint sign of golden color. If cut
too soon, it will injure the flavor and reduce the amount of
juice, which is the certain effect if picked before mature.

LAYING THEM ON THE GROUND.

As soon as clipped lay them on the ground under the tree,
where not a ray of sunshine can fall upon them, as that would
make them spotted. It is not necessary to put any covering

84 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALILTFORNTA.

over them unless the trees are pruned high. That would allow
the sun to strike direct on them. In such a case it is well to
place some loose straw over them. Let them lay on the
ground a week or ten days, the weather permitting. They
should not be handled until they have shriveled enough to
allow handling. Then take them and on the floor of a close
room pile the lemons in large heaps, and cover them with
gunny sacks or blankets, shut the door, and let them remain
forty-eight hours, then wipe them carefully, for they will be
covered with moisture, and put them into boxes, filling them
only half full, and pile the boxes one above the other in the
room, and be careful not to let a current of air pass through
the room; the doors should be shut until the lemons are per-
fectly dry, which will be in three or four days; then carefully
size them, and leave out all imperfect fruit, as it injures the
sale of the good fruit. Then wrap them in tissue paper, and
pack them very tightly in boxes, marking number of lemons
and brand on each box. In picking it is best to use baskets,
and the fruit will not get pricked with the thorns.

ANOTHER PROCESS RECOMMENDED.

Mr. A. Scott Chapman, of San Gabriel, has met with very
good success in curing lemons. His process is very simple:
The fruit is gathered green, just when turning to yellow, and of
such a size that, allowing for shrinkage, will pack from two
hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty in a box. The
man gathering has his sack suspended across his shoulders,
takes hold of the lemon with his left hand, and with his right
clips the stem with a clipper close to the calyx of the fruit.
In case he should drop one he is not allowed to pick it up, for
that lemon is liable to rot. He carefully places them in his
sack, and having half filled the same, places them one by one
in atray. The trays are placed one above another in the shade
of the tree (the trays are six inches deep, filled four inches deep
with lemons); there they are allowed to remain for one week,
the weather permitting. They will then bear the jar of trans-
porting them to the packing house. At the packing house the
trays are placed one above another, about six trays high; a

THE LEMON. 85

layer of old newspapers is placed on the topmost trays, to keep
the lemons therein from drying too fast and getting dusty. At
the end of another week, if the weather has not been damp,
they will be ready for packing, being yielding and leathery to
the touch; they will also have turned yellow. Then they are
assorted into sizes and packed; only those of the same size are
packed in the boxes by themselves.

SULPHURING THE LEMON.

Bleaching the lemon with sulphur fumes was extensively
experimented with. It had been claimed that fruit treated in
this way would keep an indefinite time, as the sulphurous gas
-would toughen the skin and dry up the watery particles, and
that it would kill the fungoids on the fruit. Lemons treated
in this way did not prove thus. As soon as they left the treat-
ing rooms they were noticed to be spotted, and by the exces-
sive use of sulphur some would be rendered white, while others
would still retain part of their color on one side, while the
other would be bleached to an unnatural color. This has been
abandoned.

CURING COMMON SEEDLINGS.

Three years ago a grower at San Gabriel, having an orchard
of one hundred and fifty large Seedling trees, experimented
for the purpose of testing their keeping qualities. He went
about it in a practical way: The fruit was stem cut with great
care, and laid carefully on straw under the trees away from the
direct rays of the sun. When they had shriveled enough to
allow handling, they were wiped dry and put into boxes, fill-
ing them one half full, and put into the packing house. About
three weeks after they were repacked, and all decayed lemons
found therein (about 50 per cent) thrown away; nothing but
apparently sound fruit was packed, and each one carefully
wrapped in tissue paper. Out of about one hundred boxes
picked, only fifty-two were shipped. They were shipped to
San Francisco, being on the way four days. Upon arrival it
was noticed that many were decaying. In order to be sold
they had to compete with well-cured lemons, as the market was

86 CITRUS CULLTORE TN. CALIFORNEL

well supplied at the time. They had to remain in the ware-
house, as buyers would not take them at any price. Only a
few boxes were sold. The grower, after waiting patiently for
his returns, was surprised on receiving a letter from the dealer,
in which he was informed that he was indebted in the sum of
75 cents balance for freight on the lot.

BUDDING THE TREES.

After going through this sad experience, the grower asked
my advice in the matter. I recommended that they should
be budded into a good marketable variety. The question was
then (the trees are very large—buds will not take in the old
wood), how will you do it?

How IT WAs DONE.

In the early spring, as soon as the trees show signs of grow-
ing, I cut the main branches (some as thick as six inches
through), within two or three feet to the crutch of the tree—
all lower also several other branches were allowed to grow.
For if all the foliage of the tree is removed, the shock is so
great that the tree seldom recovers its vigor. The trunk will
sunburn, and in many instances the trees have been lost.
Very soon after numerous shoots began to put forth at the
end of every limb that was cut; and when about four to six
inches, only those intended to remain were left. All others
were removed. When these shoots had attained a large enough
size the large branches which had been left were all removed,
and the sap forced into the young shoots. The fine branches
around the trunk, however, were allowed to remain, to prevent
the hot sun through the summer from scorching the bark.
The new shoots were then very strong and thrifty, many being
two inches in diameter. In the fall they were budded with
the Eureka lemon, and the buds allowed to remain dormant
through the winter. In the following spring all this brush
was removed, and all cuts made were covered with two coats
of rubber paint. The dormant buds came out beautifully.
Very few of the tops of the shoots were required to be re-

GHEE: LEMON. 87

moved to start the buds. One half of the top of the shoot
was only removed in order to force them. As soon as the
bud was able to support itself the whole top of the shoots was
removed to within about eight inches above the bud, and the
buds that had started were tied to what remained of the shoot.
The body of the tree was kept clear of all suckers or sprouts.
At first the suckering was considerable, as in the warm weather,
and after each irrigation, and as the buds were not able to take
up the entire sap flowing up a large trunk, it caused the sprouts
to come out all over the tree; but when the buds were large
enough to shade the trunk this ceased. Those buds are now
nearly three years old; are very large. Many lemons are now
dn them, and the old worthless seedlings are no more, but in
their stead a beautiful and thrifty Eureka lemon orchard.

USES TO WHICH LEMONS MAY BE PUT.

LEMON BISCUIT.—One and one half cups of sugar, one cup
of butter, four eggs, one and one half pints of flour, one tea-
spoonful of extract of lemon. Mix the butter, sugar, and
beaten eggs together, add the flour sifted with two teaspoon-
fuls of baking powder; flour the board, and roll out the dough
one fourth of an inch thick; cut out and lay on a greased tin;
wash over with milk, and lay a thin slice of citron on each.
Bake in a hot oven ten minutes.

LEMON CREAMS.—Pare two lemons thin, pour over one half
pint of boiling water, and let stand all night. Squeeze the
juice of the lemons on one half pound of sugar next morn-
ing; beat three eggs well; take out the peel, and mix the
water with other ingredients; strain through a sieve; then stir
over a brisk fire till thick as cream; pour hot in the glasses.

LEMON CAKE.—One cup fresh butter, three cups pulverized
sugar; rub to a cream; stir in the yolks of five eggs well
beaten, one cup sweet milk, one teaspoonful soda, juice and
grated peel of a fresh lemon, the whites of five eggs, four cups
sifted flour, one teaspoonful cream tartar. Bake in round or
square pans with straight sides.

88 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

LEMON PIE.—One teacup of boiling water, two tablespoon-
fuls of cornstarch, cooking until a thick paste; add one cup of
sugar, piece of butter the size of an egg, and set to cool; stir
together the yolks of two eggs and the grated rind and juice of
one lemon; mix all together; bake quickly; frost when done.

LEMON Drops.—Dissolve half a pound pulverized sugar in
lemon juice and boil to a thin syrup. Drop on plates and
harden in a warm place.

PRESERVED LEMON PEEL.—Make a thick syrup of white
sugar; chop the lemon peel fine, and boil it in the syrup ten
minutes; put in glass tumblers and paste paper over. A tea-
spoonful of this makes a loaf of cake or dish of sauce very
nice.

ten rey alas

VARIETIES HABITS, STOCK ETC.

CITRUS MEDICA LIMETTA.

TEE Evie

CHAPTER ail:

LAME, CULTURE:

The culture of the lime has not been a success in Califor-
nia, as it is the most tender and more susceptible to frosts
than any other tree of the citrus family. It can only be grown
successfully in warm belts and sheltered localities. The culti-
vation of the tree is very simple. The plants are raised from
seed without any difficulty. It comes true from seed; only in
exceptional cases does the seed “sport.”

It has been asserted that the orange budded on lime stock
becomes hardier, and that in this way they escape all pests.
This is not true. Scale and other pests infest the lime as well
as other citrus trees, and for this and other reasons lime grow-
ing in California is rendered unprofitable.

LIME STOCK.

Lime stock has been used considerably for budding the
orange upon. The fruit produced on the lime stock is coarse
and large, and for this reason it has been entirely discarded as
a stock for the orange.

IMPERIAL.

Imported by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. This variety
is the largest of all limes. The fruit is the size of the Genoa
lemon.

The planting of this variety should be encouraged, as it is
quite as hardy as the lemon; can, therefore, be planted where

PETE: FAME 91

the Mexican lime would be sure to fail. The tree is very pro-
ductive, fruits all the year round, and is less thorny than the
Mexican lime.

I am convinced that this variety is a most valuable acquisi-
tion, because of its healthfulness, and its fruit of superior
quality; that it will prove profitable to those who will propa-
gate it.

MEXICAN.

This variety is principally grown in California. It is a
choice lime, equal to the imported Mexican. The tree is much
used for hedges, for which purpose it is well adapted.

TAHITI.

A much stronger grower, and fruit much larger than the
Mexican, but coarse and of inferior quality.

OTHER VARIETIES.

Jewish Lime, imported (a small conical fruit).
Genoese Lime (very large, like a lemon).
Florentine (a hybrid, grown in Florida).
Moster Lime (fruit very large, like a lemon).
Salo Lime (a small round fruit).

Persian Lime (like Tahiti inferior).

Citronella Lime (very coarse, thick-rind).
Florida Seedling (nearly as large as a lemon; quite coarse).
* Valentine.

* Knatta.

* Kaghasin.

* Sour Turanp.

* Sour Raugpur.

* Sour Jambert.

* Sadaphal.

* Imported into Florida, and now commencing to fruit in that State.

EE

PAR Tak Ve

HOW TO PREPARE, PROPAGATION, ETC.

CITRUS MEDICA CIDRA.

THEN,

CLEAVPT ER ORT

CITRON CULTURE.

The citron has only been grown in California to a limited
extent, the demand for it being very limited. It is only for its
thick rind that the citron is valued. The candied citron in our
markets is imported. The fruit raised in this State can be as
well cured as the foreign grown. Those that have tried the
experiment have produced a better and finer article than the
imported.

LEMON, OR SORRENTO (Citron of Commerce).

Shape oblong like the lemon, with a very pleasant aroma,
which is much esteemed; skin bright yellow, smooth and very
glossy; inner skin white, coarse, and thick, with very little
trace of bitterness. The fruit grows very large, weighing from
three to five pounds each. The tree is of a dwarf habit, with
large glossy leaves, and very ornamental. It grows from the
cutting, and is also budded on orange, lime, and lemon stock.
It comes true from seed.

How TO PREPARE CITRON.

The fruit, when bright vellow, is picked and placed in bar-
rels filled with brine, and left for at least a month. The brine
is renewed several times, and the fruit allowed to remain in it
until required for use, often for a period of four or five months.

Pte \CLT ROL. 95

When the citrons are to be candied they are taken from the
barrels and boiled in fresh water to soften them. They are
then cut into pieces, the seed is removed, and the fruit is again
immersed in cold water, soon becoming of a greenish color.
After this it is placed in large earthen jars, covered with hot
syrup, and allowed to stand about three weeks. During this
time the strength of the syrup is gradually increased. The
fruit is then put into boilers with crystallized sugar dissolved
in a little water, and cooked; then allowed to cool, and boiled
again until it will take up no more sugar. It is then dried
and packed in wooden boxes.

CITRON CAKE.—Three cups of sugar, one of butter, one of
sweet milk, four cups of flour, one half teaspoonful of soda,
and one of cream of tartar. Cut up one half pound of citron
fine and thin, and the whites of ten eggs; cream the butter
and sugar; sift the flour and add gradually, then the citron;
beat the eggs until stiff and add last; sift the cream of tartar
in the flour, and dissolve the soda in a little tepid water; beat
all thoroughly before stirring in the eggs.

BooKsS RECOMMENDED.

I have tried in every way to give all the information on the
subject within my power, not theoretically, but practically, as
I understand it, from experience obtained in the field.

Whatever I may have omitted may be found in the follow-
ing works:

Orange Culture in California, by T. A. Garey.

The Orange in California, by William A. Spalding. |

Hand Book of Orange Culture, by Rev. T. W. Moore.

A Treatise on the Culture of the Orange, by George W.
Davis.

Orange Culture in New Zealand, by George E. Alderton.

Florida Fruits—How to Raise Them, by Helen Harcourt.

A Treatise on the Citrus Family, by George Gallesio.

Consular Reports. (Fruit culture in the several countries.)

Bulletin No. 41% of the Department of Agriculture, June,
1884.

96 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA.

A REVISION.

I hope to revise this edition at an early date. In the mean-
time I would be glad to be informed of any error or omission
that unintentionally I may have made.

CONCLUSION.

I regret exceedingly that I have not been able to visit the
citrus orchards that in recent years have been planted in the
northern and central part of the State.

I had the pleasure, however, of viewing (last year and this
year) two exhibits from that section that were exceedingly
fine. The fruit was large and bright, and entirely free from
smut, but not ripe, as in December there are no ripe oranges in
this State; but being highly colored, they reminded me of
about fifteen or twenty years ago, when we gathered such fruit
from our trees in Los Angeles, which was in those days sold
to dealers at from $30 to $50 per thousand.

Such a thing as an orange box was then unknown to us.
The fruit was gathered and piled into heaps; from these heaps
they were counted and packed into whatever boxes the deal-
ers could obtain. The fruit was very bright and large. Grow-
ers desiring to improve the quality of their fruits imported
foreign varieties, and in so doing introduced many insect pests
that were unknown to us, and which soon found a home in our
groves. They were left to increase, as we did not know what
they were, and their presence was only felt when our trees no
longer produced the fine and large bright fruit once borne by
them.

The utmost care should be exercised in taking nursery stock
from infested localities to places not infested. To be safe no
man should ever take a tree to his home except it be from dis-
tricts entirely free from all insect pests.

If my investigations, and the task that I imposed upon my-
self in the preparation of these chapters, shall aid the progress
of horticulture in this State, I am happy and satisfied.

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