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,THE TREE DOCTOR

A
BOOK ON TREE CULTURE

Illustrated Profusely -with Photographs.

BY

OHN DAVEY,

\\

1904

THE SAALFIELD PUBLISHING COMPANY
NKW YORK AKRON, OHIO CHICAGO

COPYRIGHT, 1901,

BY
JOHN DAVEY

INTRODUCTION.

THE Americans are a people who love the beautiful, and yet, strange to say, they have
destroyed the trees, which are among the grandest objects of all nature. This,
however, has not been intentionally done. The pioneers made war on trees, slaughtered
them, burnt them up and got rid of them the easiest and quickest way they could devise.
To a certain extent, this was excusable, as the land was needed for other purposes.
Thousands now regret that they did not preserve some of the giants of the native forests.
The majestic elm in this photograph is one of them. What would you give to have it in
vour vard?

Our people now deeply deplore the mistakes that have been made, and are spending
millions of dollars annually, in the hope of establishing sufficient shade and fruit trees
for the requirements of man and beast. In spite of all their noble efforts they are meet-
ing defeat on every hand. The whole trouble is traceable to two oversights. It was my
intention, five years ago, to point out these facts and the accompanying evils in a lec-
ture, by the aid of the stereopticon ; but I saw that a thousand persons in that work could
not reach the masses in ten years. Then I thought I would write for some papers, but

readily discovered that but comparatively few people could be reached, and such read-
ing is not easily preserved. Finally, I determined to put the camera to work. Two
"authorities" might disagree on a certain point, and the public say, "They can't both
be right ; may be both are wrong. ' ' When , however, the camera gives you a picture,
that is something from which you cannot get away. I had first intended to use fifty
photographs, then made it one hundred. Again, finding there was a call for knowledge
on the landscape and floral arts, I have used 175 photographs, and could use more to
advantage, but cannot for the money. I desire to keep the book at $1.00, so that it will
be within the reach of all.

This is an age in which we do things by lightning. People want facts, but they must
have them in a condensed form. I cover, in THE TREE DOCTOR, practically, all that
has ever been written on tree culture. We herein present to the public the best photo-
engravings, the best paper, with a strong cover, put up by the best of workmen and,
above all, knowledge that it has taken the author more than thirty-five years to acquire.
You pay a dollar for a tree, shrub or plant, then lose it. You try again and lose it,
because you know not how to proceed. I have known people to order over twenty dol-
lars' worth at once, and have it nearly all die. THE TREE DOCTOR will prevent all this
waste of money and inspire its readers with the ambition to add new beauties around
their homes. All scientific terms are avoided. The language used is chosen so that it
will convey a knowledge of the facts to the ablest scholars of the land, or to the mer-
chant, farmer, mechanic, laborer, man or woman, boy or girl.

The time has come when tree planting and tree culture must be studied in con-
nection with the physiology of plant life. If this is not done, a calamity will befall the
inhabitants of these fruitful regions to an extent that no human mind can conceive.

There are no people on this earth who are blessed with such a scope of territory,
range of climate, variety of soil and general adaptation to fruit-growing as those of North
America. But we are confronted with the appalling fact that, unless something is done
to arrest the diseases and check the ravages of the untold billions of insect pests which
prey upon our apple trees, inside of ten years it will be next thing to impossible to grow
even defective apples! For the last twenty years there has been a gradual decrease
in the quality of this most desirable and staple fruit. Similar difficulties are being en-
countered in the attempts to grow the peach, pear, plum, and other fruits; and shade
trees are going to pieces. The whole country is getting alarmed over the disasters that
await us from the destruction of our fruit crops, and many of our ablest writers have
done nobly in their efforts to stay this on-coming tide of evil. Though much good has
been done, for some reason no one has "laid the ax at the root" of the trouble. Some-
thing has been said about every evil from which the tree suffers except two, and to
these two all the other evils are traceable.

The author of THE TREE DOCTOR has had the care of trees and plants for more than
thirty-five years and is an ardent lover of nature. The ghastly wounds of his friends,
the trees, and their various suffering (if you will allow the expression) cry aloud and
pierce his inmost soul and bid him arise and plead their cause The author is not so
conceited to suppose he "knows it all." Whatever knowledge he possesses he has
learned from others, or gained it from observation. If nature has endowed him with the
faculty of observing and the ability to trace effects back to their causes, and thus enable
him to find the two real causes of the present sickness and premature death of trees,
then, as a member of society, he owes that knowledge to the world at large, and par-
ticularly to the United States of America, his adopted and beloved "home" to which,
with pleasure, he reverently dedicates this work.

THE AUTHOR.

DEPARTMENT I. Tree Surgery.

Photo i presents to you three Fallawalder apples. The middle one, 4 inches in
diameter, is from a perfect tree, or as near perfect as we could find. Its fruit was all
similar to the specimen herein shown. The other two are the same variety. The one at
the left presents the " nose," the one to the right the "stem" end. Probably six bushels
of this defective fruit could have been picked up under the tree, at the same time there

Photo 3.

was not one sound apple on it. Why? L/ook at the slaughtered trunk and branches
below, in photo 2. This tree is rotten clear through its whole body, and the microscope
reveals the decay in the twigs, and in the "water-sprouts" it is visible to the naked eye.

The failure to obtain sound apples, the one most desirable and staple of fruits, is pro-
ducing grave apprehensions throughout the United States. Apples, even from some of
the western states, where there are but comparatively few insects, are becoming defective,
and the tendency is to blame it all to the rapid invasion of insect pests. Scarcely anyone
seems to think that it is we unwise creatures who have created the conditions for this
alarming increase of our enemies, the innumerable billions of insects. In the front of
your house is a tree whose branches intercept your view. This you will not tolerate.
You get the ax and saw and call the hired man: ''Ho! James; come here. I want you
to trim that tree." James goes to work at it, following your directions, or using his best
judgment. Sir, or madam, you have spent your money freely to procure your fruit and
shade trees, and now, after kind nature has lent her assistance to give you favorable
results, you unintentionally commit one of the gravest of blunders. If your child's arm
or leg has to be amputated, whom do you call to perform the operation?

Do you send for the butcher, because he can do a quick and cheap job? No! The
time it takes and what it costs are scarcely thought of. There is a life at stake, and the
most skilful surgeon you can procure is the one you will endeavor to get. Did you ever
stop to think, for a moment, that the tree has life just as really as you have? You know

6

this to be a fact, but the ques-
tion I present is, have you
thought over it? The human
being and the tree both have
to feed to live; both have cir-
culation, one a red fluid
which we call " blood "; the
other a transparent fluid
which we call "sap." Both
have their seasons of activity
and rest. The human being
has the period of infancy,
childhood, maturity and old
age. The trees would have
these stages, but we kill
them (or many of them) be-
fore they are "of age." It
matters not if we do this un-
wittingly; natural "law ex-
cuses no one's ignorance"
any more than civil law does.

Imagine that in some
city there is a concern estab-
lished, called "The Mutilat-
ing, Chopping and Destroy-
ing Bureau," and the only
recommendation they pre-
sent is "speed." William
Brown, a mail-carrier, comes
in to have a foot off. He
places his limb on the block;
one vigorous " whack " and
the job is done. "Take your
mail-pouch, William; hustle
off and make your deliveries.
You will bleed some, and
find it a little inconvenient
to get used to the stub, but
all will be O. K. if j'ou won't
meddle with the wound!"
Here comes John Adams, a
penman ; his right hand both-
ers him a little. " Lay that
arm down here, John." "Ca-
whack!" The job is done !
"Move on! You need pay
no attention to the streaming
veins and arteries; put on a
handful of mud now and
then, and if the flies 'blow'
in the wound, don't disturb
the maggots!"

Such proceedings would
not be any more outrageous

against life than what we have been doing with trees. Talking with a practical and
well-read man awhile ago, he said that no one should be allowed to prune a tree, unless
he held a certificate showing that he was qualified. That would be preferable to the
present destruction. But the better way is to educate all people. This is the purpose of
THE TREE DOCTOR.

The first thing to be considered before you sever a limb is, " Where shall I cut ?" In
photo 4 you will see three specimens. Study the one to the left. You will notice a
"stub" left on the branch about as you will commonly see them after the tree has been
"trimmed" by the average person, who has not made a study of this very important sub-
ject. This stub rots back to a certain point called the " shoulder."

The middle specimen, in that photo, shows you a case a year after the cut was
made. The bark is decayed and peeled off, and to the right is an example of the invaria-
ble outcome. It takes six or seven years for this stub to rot and drop out. Nature strug-
gles in every way to heal over the wound, but cannot do it while the obstacle is in the
way. The reason why this stub dies is because there are no latent buds remaining to be
excited and started into growth, thereby preserving a circulation, as shown in photo 6.
In photo 5 the same specimens are turned so that you can see how the wood is affected.

Looking back at the middle specimen of photo 4, you will see that the stub has dried,
because it has been exposed to rain, frost, snow, etc. The result is, decay has set in and
has run into the trunk of the tree, as you can see by looking at the same piece turned
over in photo 5. In this (photo 5), if you examine the right-hand specimen, you will
see that by the time the stub decays and drops out, the rot has gone down into the trunk
and up into the branches. This answers to blood poisoning in the human body. This
dead tissue, as before stated, is carried to the farthermost twigs, causing "specks," " dry
rot," etc., in the fruit. If you turn back to photo 3, you will see what destructive work
has been perpetrated on an otherwise fine specimen of Summer Rambo apple tree.
Directly in front of you is a wound where a stub was left till it rotted out. The birds
have dug clear into the heart of the tree. To the right is an old sore, larger still. A year
ago, in order to plow in a little closer, the farmer took his ax and slashed off the huge
limb at the left, leaving, as you can see, a stub over a foot long. In order to have
removed this limb a sharp saw, with plenty of " set," should have been used, and the cut
should have been made close to the larger, upright branch, where the line is placed.
(For cutting large branches, see elsewhere.)

You will hear all kinds of "hobbies" as to how a tree should be "pruned"; but, the
fact is, when a branch has to come off entire, there is but one correct place to make the
cut. Turn again to photo 4. In the left-hand specimen the saw has been run in and a
piece of paper is placed there. About 2 inches to the right of the paper is a prominence,
which is what we call the " shoulder." At this place nature always makes a vigorous
effort to heal. This is a very strong point that connects the limb with the trunk of the
tree. It answers to the "socket" of the arm. If you look at the middle subject, in that
photo, you will see what an effort nature made in one year to heal at this shoulder, but
could not, because the dry stub was in the way. Look still farther to the right-hand one,
and see what a desperate attempt was made to close in after the decaying piece that stood
in the way and conveyed the air, water and frost down the wood fibre, where it wrought
such destructive work! If you turn to photo 17, you will see these "shoulders" very
plain in that maple. The maple shows this prominence much more distinctly than
some other species. It is also very plain in photo 16, by the side of which the high-
school girl is standing. Look at the hole that is rotted into this fine cut of timber! See
the decaying stub, also, above. If you will examine the trees that go down in wind-
storms, you will find nearly all are defective. (Those destroyed by cyclones are some-
times exceptions.)

I have told you where to cut, and it may be well to add a few words how to perform
the act. There is a strong tendency for some of the wood and bark to split down.
Sometimes, if care is not taken, the bark will split down several feet. To avoid this, it

Photo 7.

Photo 9.

is customary to cut up under.
A much better way is to cut
the whole branch off, out, say,
two feet from the trunk. This
relieves the heavy weight.
Then you can start the saw at
the "shoulder" and can easily
manage the remaining stub.
Sometimes the branch is so
attached that you cannot get
behind it with a saw. In such
cases, those who can swing an
ax well can make a good, clean
cut with that implement, strik-
ing up from under. Those
who are unaccustomed to the ax should use a large chisel, as shown in photo n. Never
leave the wound hacked and lacerated. Cutting upward with the grain is essential.

DRESSING THE WOUNDS.

I have never seen the matter of dressing the wounds presented with one-tenth of the
strength that it should be. The wounds not only " ought to be painted," but positively
they must be, or the premature death of your tree will follow. Look at photo 7. This
is a "crotched" apple tree. You behold two old sores. The cut was made in the right
place in both cases, but it was not painted. See what excellent efforts nature has made
in both to cover up the wound ! Hut the action of frost, air and rain have done their
deadly work. In photo 8 this same tree is presented, with the worst of the old sores
traced down — uncovered. What a nauseating sight ! And yet this is not half as bad as
two-thirds of the apple orchards of Ohio. From such trees you expect sound fruit, do

9

Photo 8.

you? As before remarked, you have not
purposely wrought such destructive work;
it is a deplorable oversight. But nature
is meeting out a just retribution. She
is sending you to market with the
" specked," wormy and half rotten fruit,
which is everywhere offered for sale.

This last season I have kept close
watch of the Cleveland markets. At
Chandler & Rudd's, O'Brien's and other
places, where they pay the highest prices
for the best of everything, I have not
found one sound bushel of apples. In-
deed, it is a rare thing to find one sound
apple in a whole bushel. This dire calam-
ity is to be traced largely to the wounded
trees. Such "blood poisoning," if you
will allow the expression, affects the fruit
directly. Also the wounds and decayed
wood become the lurking place for count-
less billions of insects.

This whole matter should be taken

hold of with vigor, not only by the pomological, horticultural and agricultural societies,

but by the masses in general.

Let us return to the study of our pho-
tographs. In photo 9 you have an example
where the snow and ice broke down a large
branch. The wound was not attended to
for some three years. The old, dead wood
has now been dug out and a heavy coat of
paint applied. The tree is badly damaged,
but if this wound be dressed every year, it
will last, probably, a long time. Photo 10
presents another old sore that had been
doctored. This is a genuine Rock Maple.
The tree is in excellent condition in all
other respects. A branch was cut off and
allowed to split the bark down. The wound
was not dressed. It was exposed for some
six or seven years. Finally the owner
called on us to attend to it. We found that
the rot had penetrated nearly to the heart
of the tree. By the use of a mallet and
chisel all the decaying bark and wood was
removed. The process was much the same
as a surgeon would adopt in scraping a
diseased bone. Everything was cut away
until healthy wood was reached. Then the
cavity was filled in with putty, using a
mallet and a short piece of wood, driving
the putty in solid. Then it was painted.
It was not seen for two years. It was then
discovered that the lower part of the cavity
had not been cut quite slanting enough,
and the water had lodged there, causing
decay to start in again. But if you will
observe the upper portion around the putty,
you will see what a most excellent healing
operation has been going on.

In photo 23 you have another example
of what evil can be done by allowing the
bark to split down and the neglect of dress-
ing the wound. The huge cavity where
the lady's hand is presents to you one of
those cases. The whole block of wood
which you see is the "head" of an apple
tree. It is the junction of the stem and
large branches. The point facing you,
where it has been sawed off, was the upper
part of the trunk. By this you can see how
the rot ran down. In the photo below (24)
you have the same block turned around.
Bv this you will observe how the action of
decay traveled «/> into the main arms. As
before stated, if you trace this decay with
the microscope you will find that the tree
is affected, root and branch, to the farthest
extremities. And yet, from this you would

expect sound apples, would you? This tree, like all such, became a victim of a wind
storm. If you turn back again to photo 4, to the left-hand specimen, you will see where
the piece of paper is laid in. It would be a mistake in pruning to cut at that point, be-
cause you would not only be cutting nearly lengthwise with the wood fibre (grain of the
wood), but you would inflict an unnecessarily large wound. If you cut at the "shoulder"
the sap comes up from all directions, from under, from the top and sides. If the wound
be dressed thoroughly with thick paint a healthly granulation will immediately set in,
provided it be the right time of the year. A fine specimen of healing is presented in
photo 18. This is hard maple ; it was cut at the "shoulder" and well painted. You can
observe the saw marks through the paint. The new bark, somewhat resembling a horse-
shoe, is the work of only forty-two days. This is what nature will do when you lend a

1-2

little assistance. Years ago careful orchardists used to apply
grafting-wax and other preparations to wounds, but later ex-
perience has proven that nothing is better than good, thick
paint (no matter what color). It should be applied to all
wounds more than half an inch in diameter. All large wounds
should be painted twice a year. Photo 1 7.

"//<?r£; large a limb can I cut /" is a question frequently

asked. Let photo 19 answer this. Here is a wound nearly two feet long. It has been
well painted, and granulation is setting in finely, especially where the boy's right hand
is. This limb constituted nearly one-fourth of the tree, but it made the tree lop-sided.
In looking at this photo your back is supposed to be to the east. Photo 20 is the same
tree with your back to the north. By this you will learn that the cut was made in a
straight, perpendicular line with the main trunk, or, if anything, a little "dished," so
that when it heals the line will be straight. In photo 21 is a large wound more than
half healed over, and in 22 is a wound on an oak, 15 inches in diameter, completely healed
in the most perfect manner. Small-sized wounds (3 or 4 inches in diameter) will heal
over, if the cut is made in the right place, even though the wound be not dressed.
Photo 12 (from a horse-chestnut tree) presents this fact. Photo 13 is the same piece
turned around. Beneath that nicely healed wound was a rotten mass of wood fibre
running into the main branch 5 or 6 inches. The poor tree, however, was not to
blame. The evil must be charged up to some " tree butcher." Photo 14 shows you two
specimens from an elm tree. They were properly cut and well dressed. Photo 15 is the
same reversed. You can see, even in the photo, that the wood is solid. The " hearts,"'
or dark centers, are so hard that if you tap on them they sound like metal.

" When is the proper time to prune?" This question comes from almost everyone
interested in a tree or plant. Many excellent authorities advocate winter pruning. While
I have no serious objection to offer against the fall and winter months; yet, most decid-
edly, I have had the best results in the growing season. Everyone, however, should
avoid pruning when the sap starts into an active flow, for two reasons. First, the bark
will very easily strip down, even on small branches; and second, the sap is thin and flows
so copiously that it is sometimes almost impossible to make paint adhere to the wound.
There is a common rule among the German fanners (and it's a good one), "start U>
prune when the apple trees are in bloom." The sap has then become sufficiently thick-
ened that the tree will not " bleed." Moreover, you can then see^all dead or defective
13

branches. You can
prune with safety from
this time till the leaves
fall, and the work can
be executed with
pleasure.

Don't depend on
"hobos," adventurers
and imposters who
have "nerve" enough
to pose as "tree trim-
mers." There is a
story of an Irishman
who claimed to under-
stand the art of "trim-
ming" trees. He was
sent, one morning, to
trim the orchard. At
noon his boss inquired
how he was progress-
ing. "An' fath, sur,
Oi've got them all cut
down, an' Oi'll trim
them up this after-
noon," was his report.
It would be about as
well for the average
tree-butcher to follow
Pat's example as to cut
off one-half and start
the other dying. Study

the life of your plants and trees and learn to do your own tree surgery, or direct it per-
sonally. The wind sometimes will split a branch clear to the ground. Photo 25 is an
example . The wood, however, was painted and is being preserved in a solid condition.
Photo 26 is another specimen, but the wound has not been dressed. It is a sickening
sight of dead wood fibre and haunts for innumerable hosts of insects. It is a Rambo tree,
but the fruit has scarcely a trace of that delicious variety; it has a flat, soggy, dead-wood
taste. Photo 27 is also an apple tree, and some years ago was struck by a plow, drag or
something of the kind. The fruit is about as worthless as the preceding Rambo. Peo-
ple are sometimes very thoughtless when working around trees, but the penalty must be
paid for all violation of nature's laws. In planting orchards, farmers would do well to
use the simple tree guard shown in photo 100. It will pay you well to keep your trees
clean. Photo 28 shows a boy " currying the tree." He is using an old currycomb, and
the little folks are around him learning how to do it. A tree will thrive by being cleaned
just as much as a horse will; besides, you destroy the shelter of your enemies, the insects.
An acquaintance of mine told me that some years ago he climbed into an old apple tree
to remove some branches. He had on an old pair of buckskin gloves. He commenced
to rub off the old bark, and he fussed and ivorked and rubbed till he had cleaned the
whole tree. This destroyed the abode of insects and admitted light, air and moisture to
the hide-bound tree. The result was, as he said, "a new lease of life to the tree, and an
abundance of fine fruit." Keep your trees clean.

NOW FOR A CHANGE!

You have been vexed and irritated bv seeing how our friends, the trees, can be muti-
lated and destroyed by the ruthless hand of unqualified persons. Now we turn to a few
of nature's majestic beauties. If you glance at photo 29 you will learn how nature plants
a tree. She drops a seed on the ground, then blows a few leaves or some other substance
on it, enough to keep it moist while the seed germinates. The radicle penetrates the
soil and throws out some tiny little white rootlets, which, in this case, have become the

powerful bracing roots
before you, which now
hold this gigantic elm
to its mooring. It is
some 14 feet across
from one root to the
other, as you see it, on
the surface of the soil.
As the delicate little
infant plant pushed
forth from its embry-
otic state a mouse
might have clipped it
off and scarcely felt
anything between its
teeth ; the foot of a
clumsy toad might
have snapped it off,
or "a dew-drop on this
baby plant have
warped this giant elm
forever. ' '

This venerable old
friend was born, prob-
ably, about the period
when the Indians pur-
sued Captain Samuel
Brady, compelling the
heroic Brad}- to make
a leap of 22 feet, clear-
ing the Cuyahoga
River at the Narrows,
about a mile east of
this health}- veteran of
the native forest,
which stands here now
a rebuke to ignorant
' 'tree-butchers. ' ' What
a study there is in this
tree for young people.
When the radicle (tap-
root) had gone down
a little and commenced
its work, then the
plumule shot up, bear-
ing with it the coty-
ledons, or seed leaves.

Photo 21.

The process of tree-building has gone on year after year
till now you see a mammoth beauty about a hundred and
fifty feet high. You are presented with a view of this
plant across one of the celery fields adjoining (photo 30).
The tree is the tallest one to the right. A violent cyclone
tore a branch from it some few years ago, as it did also
from its neighbor.

(Many of our readers probably never saw celery
growing on a large scale. This is the White Plume vari-
ety, taken under a strong sunlight. This is a part of
Pleasant Valley Celery Farm, at Kent, Ohio. If you get
hungry for good celery, better write them.)

It appears that trees are like persons — some born to
reach the top round in the ladder of fame, while the
masses pass into oblivion as if they
never had existed. Photo 31 is a
good example of the ' 'sugar maple' '
of Northeastern Ohio. It has been
"trimmed," but not by an ignorant
man. The "tree-butcher" would
have killed it years ago. The
"trimming," you will notice, has
been performed in a very system-
atic manner- The "professors"

r who ^ia(^ ^ie J°^ *n cnar&e were

' *^ 5':' KB r«JPm Efttfl horses and cattle ; they nibbled off

the branches as high as they could
reach. The upper parts of the tree
have adjusted themselves to the
light and air. The top leans a little
in a northeasterly direction. You
will see hundreds of trees that lean
in this way. It is due to the steady
breezes that blow from the west and
southwest. Photo 87 is an example
of this. This tree is a young elm.
It is situated where the wind, after
coming over a hill, becomes com-
pressed and keeps a steady pres-
sure on it, and the tender branches
grow where they are kept by the
force of the wind. The remedy is
to cut off the branches where the

lines are, leaving a heavier portion of the head on the side toward the wind. Dress the
wounds as directed under that head. Cut off all branches under the horizontal line and
all to the left of the vertical one. Photo 32 exhibits a lovely maple about seventy feet
high. The picture was taken at quite a distance and during a strong wind, which shook
the camera and slightly blurred the picture. You will observe how nicely this, also, is
"trimmed." Prince and Dick and Charley and Bossy have done this at their leisure,
while they stamped and switched off the flies. You will notice in this case, also, how
mother (nature) has taken care of the upper stories. The one great lesson that mother
thus teaches us is, form the top the right height and then keep hands off. It is the desire
of the author of this work that you study, above any other part, the lessons on planting,
and forming the tops of trees. See elsewhere.

16

Photo 34 shows
you a basswood tree.
The horses and cattle
"trimmed "this, also.
It has now been en-
closed in a new part
of a cemetery. The
basswood makes a
fine shade tree. It
has strong lateral
branches, and it is
one of thebest honey-
producing plants we
have. Plant more of
them. Photo 33 pre-
sents to your view a
genuine sugar maple,
the same as in 31.
This grew up in the
forest and was al-
lowed to stand in the
" clearing." The
land around it has
been cultivated for
more than twenty
years. The trunk is
some 3 feet through
at the base, and the
owner is careful not
to have it marred.
This tree shows you
that you can form the
top at any height you
please. You can have
the branches drag on
the ground, or form
the head 33 feet from

the ground, as this is. Photo 35 gives you two mammoth oaks, remnants of the forest.
The picture does not do them justice. They are so large the camera would not take
them in when near by. The right-hand one is some 6 feet through at the base. The
principal thing we want you to observe in this is their powerful arms. Whether the
"tree-butcher" has been kept away from these oaks with the broom stick or shotgun, I
know not, but they are fine object lessons, as are the others preceding. They all teach
what your trees "might have been" under right conditions, and we know, kind readers,
that you have invested your monev for the purpose of acquiring such majestic beauties;
and though you have failed, if you will follow the teachings of THE TREE DOCTOR in
planting and trimming trees, you or your descendants shall attain unto this desirable end.
Photo 36 shows you a young rock, or sugar maple. Though these are slower grow-
ing than the soft maple, yet it pays to wait for their strong makeup and beauty of foliage.

WHAT THE TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH COMPANIES DO.

Photo 37 gives you a view of a handsome row of young rock maples. They were the
pride of the owner of the farm. They were planted in the fence row. Looking down
the road you will see that the street bends a little to the right. The trees were continued

down that line. The owner of the property fell sick. During his absence the telephone
company came along, keeping to the left. When they came to the bend in the road they
crossed over and planted their poles by the young trees, and cut perpendicular, taking
off one-half of the trees. Photo 38 will give you some idea of their slaughter, though the
picture is not very plain. Photo 40 shows you how they slaughtered one of the most
symmetrical maples that could be found anywhere. Photo 39 reveals their fiendish
work on two grand oaks. Whether such fellows should be put into the " pen," hanged,
shot or drowned, or all of it, is difficult to say, but farmers are a consummate lot of fools
to allow such destruction of trees and consequent de-
preciation of property. Telephone and telegraph com-
panies are in business for the money that is in it, and
let them buy the right of way through the open field,
which is the proper place to go.

FORKED OR CROTCHED TREES

are the most difficult class of trees to prune, and-
"doctored" they must be or the winds, snow and sleet
will destroy them. Photo 41 had a very graceful top
and was highly prized by the owner. He saw the
danger and placed the chain around it. The tree grew
and the chain cut into the bark. With the pressure
from the growth and the friction from the swaying of
the tree by the wind, it became completely
girdled; death was the result. Photo 42 is an-
other example. This tree could have been
saved if a bolt had been put through at the
point indicated by the line. Both this and the
foregoing tree are maples. There is one vari-
ety of hard maple that has a strong tendency
to be c notched. The largest tree in photo
40 is one of that variety. Contrast this one
with the strong-armed rock maple in photo 36.
Soft maples, also, are very apt to be forked.
Elms, too, have a great tendency to this weak

Photo 25.

Photo 26.

form of branching;
photo 43 is an exam-
ple. This is a very
large tree and was in
perfect pealth, but it
went to pieces in a
wind-storm. It is
now completely
ruined. It should
have had two bolts of
inch iron or steel.
The upper bolt
would have held the
two branches indi-
cated, and the lower
one in like manner.
Apple trees, also,
have a great ten-
dency to crotchiness.
They should be
watched and bolted.
Photo 45 is an exam-
ple of unexpected
trouble. There was
no particular sign of
weakness in this
case. But it had been
gradually weakened
and the water had
found its way in, fol-
lowed by a slight rot down as far as the cross line. Just the weight of the crop or apples
broke it down. I speak of the bolt, as that is the best method of preventing the trouble.
Chains and bands are objectionable on account of their "chafing" tendencies. In
photo 44 you have a case of a large maple split clear to the ground. It gaped with
every wind-storm. Two % bolts were used at a point where the bits of paper are tacked
on. It is nine years since this was bolted. Putty and old dregs of paint were worked
into the crevices above to keep out the water, and a wonderful process of healing has
been going on down the wounded sides of the trunk. But this tree has recently taught
a valuable lesson. A violent wind-storm tore off one-half of the top, just where the bolt
was put through, revealing to what an alarming extent decay had penetrated and weak-
ened the wood before the tree was drawn together with bolts. We commonly practice
bolting in the way shown on the horse-chestnut in photo 46. The bolt might have been
put as high as indicated by the right hand. The higher the bolt the less the strain from
above. Always fill in around the bolt with putty or thick paint to exclude the air and
moisture.

To show you how common it is for trees to be crotchy, we call your attention to
photo 47. These are fairly healthy elms, but no less than five of them that you can see
are so badly forked that they will be torn to pieces by the wind. The only way to
prolong the life of that row of trees would be to bolt them or lop off the tops as in photo
90. In some situations it is well to do both. In photo 90 the trees are so exposed that
the top of one was torn clear off, and others probably would have been destroyed had not
the tops been shortened. In this operation great care should be taken to paint the
wounds, as it is difficult to get to them again. It is a very tedious piece of work to per-
form. Light ladders had to be fastened with strong ropes to the main branches to get
19

Photo 28.

Photo 29.

up to the work, and the tops were let down with a light pulley, so as not to demolish the
fence. Photo 48 illustrates a case of temporary salvation. Just over the girl's head a
piece of paper is laid into a crevice. The large branch toward the house, and constitut-
ing about one-fourth of the tree, was rent in a heavy gale the whole length of the trunk
and laid on the ground. A strong double-block rope and tackle were procured, and
with a team of horses the limb was drawn back into its place. . In order to hold it there
a strong chain was placed around the main branches and guards of double thickness of

galvanized iron were put between the limbs and chain. The tree is practically ruined,
though it may last thirty or forty years, if the guards are changed and new chains supplied.

Thus far I have been showing you how to prevent the crotch from splitting. The
better way, however, is to prevent the formation of the fork. This you can do in young
trees. In photo 50 you have a case which was one of the worst kind. There was a very
bad fork at the upper cross line and another at the lower one. The remedy was to cut
everything clean off, making a bean-pole of the stem. It shocked the owner, but he has
long since recovered and is delighted with the strong lateral branches which the wind
might possibly break off, but it cannot split them off. Photo 49 is the same tree
in foliage. It would be an improvement if all branches were cut off below the bottom line.
ONE GREAT EVIL.

Now, put away everything else out of your thoughts and consider this one fact alone
till it be indelibly fixed in your mind, namely: The roots of every tree are proportional
in extent to the branches. We commence this series of lessons with photo 52. This is a
21

Photo 33.

small elm. Go from this to photos 53 and
54. This is a maple, started on its fifth
year's growth. The middle part of the stem
is cut out so that both root and branch can
be shown on one page. The size of this plant
you can see as compared with the bo3T's hand.
The stem is not much larger than his thumb.
Look closely at both pictures. If the leaves
were off, the root would appear as large, if
not larger, than the top.

Now turn to that majestic maple, photo
3:. Imagine some gigantic hand lifting this
tree out of the ground and plunging it into
some lake and washing off all the soil and
then holding it up to view; and suppose the
leaves were all off, what would you see? You
would see this, viz. : The rools, when aver-
aged up, cover as mttch surface as the
branches. If the tree could be lifted during
its working season, you would see, probably,
from five to ten times as many of those deli-
cate little fibrous, feeding rootlets as you
have twigs. And where are these feeders
situated ? At the extreme end of the other
Photo 34' little roots. Now, what do we learn from

this fact. Simply this, namely: If these feeders are not taken up when you lift the plant,
such a plant will suffer in proportion to the roots you have destroyed. Large trees can
be moved and it is often done. Trees with trunks 4 feet in diameter have been taken up
and replanted with success, but it takes powerful machinery to do it. The average per-
son desiring a tree would want to pay not more than a few dollars. Suppose you wanted
to move the maple in photo 49. The base of that tree is about 8 inches in diameter. The
diameter of the top is from 12 to 15 feet. Then you must go at least 6 feet from the tree
to get your feeding roots. This can be done, but a clump of earth 12 feet in diameter

and from 2 to 3 feet
deep is not easily ban-
died, and not one out
of a thousand would
attempt such a task.
The usual way is to
"grub" them out,
somethinglike the tree
lying on the ground in
photo 51, and though
they take great pains
with the planting, they
very often have the
trouble of pullingthem
out in a condition like
that which the gentle-
man is holding up for
inspection. If the

feeding-roots are not preserved there is but one
thing to do, and that is cut 0$~the top in the same
proportion that you have destroyed the rootlets.
Then you have injured the breathing and circulat-
ing power of the plant to the extent of the removal
of its foliage. This is followed by a cessation of
heart growth. Photo 55 exhibits this fact. This is
a section of a tree about 12 inches in diameter.
Death set in at the center, at the dark spot where
the finger is pointing. This tree, like tens of thou-
sands of others, had not foliage nor rootlets enough
to supply even the trunk with moisture. The result
was, the sun dried the bark up and it peeled off.
This usually happens on the south side, or a little
west of that, where the sun strikes it the hottest
part of the day. Some very wise gentlemen will
tell you, "the person who planted that tree should
have marked it before he took it up. This (wounded
part) is the side that formerly faced the north, and
it should have been
planted that way, ' ' etc.
All there was of it is,
the plant had been ren-
dered unable to sup-
ply moisture and the
bark was destroyed.
The action of hard
freezing after a very
warm spell sometimes
has a similar effect. In
the latter case the bark
is ruptured, torn loose;
in the former dried up\
in both cases it is
killed. Now look at
photo 58. The person

Photo 38.

examining this maple is Mr.
John Paxton, the young,
wide-awake and energetic
editor of the Kent Courier.
This gentleman is much in-
terested in good trees and
fine floral displays. See from
his right hand clear down to
the ground how the bark has
been destroyed. Though na-
ture is making most vigorous
efforts to heal this over, yet
the tree is utterly worthless
and should be pulled out, for
if it does remain and heal
over it will be hollow, and
will be blown down and pos-
sibly do damage. Take out
all such trees and replace
with small, healthy ones.

I have asserted that when
the roots are thus destroyed
it results in a dead center.
This usually affects the
branches in a similar manner
as do the wounds from the "tree-
butcher." The rot is carried away
up into the branches. See this ex-
hibited in photos 56 and 57. One
can generally pick out such trees
by the dead twigs interspersed in
the top. Sometimes a tree may be
planted in a very favorable situa-
tion and will do so well that there
is no particular trace of the injury
in the twigs. Photo 59 is a case of
this kind, but in photo 60 you have
what you can discover on close in-
spection. Such a tree, I say, is not
safe, for it is liable to succumb to
the force of a violent storm.

In photo 6 1 you have an ex-
ample. The smaller tree to the
left was quite large when planted.
I think the gentleman paid $3 for
it. As usual a dead center set in ;
the bark dried up toward the hot
sun and peeled off (between the two
crosses). The bark will dry up on
any side of the tree that is exposed
to the hottest sun. It may be east, west or south, but generally south. The tree is now
doing fairly well and may make a large one, but it is hollow and will be a constant
menace to the occupants of that house, for,,being hollow, it may go crashing into the
house with any severe storm.

Photo 40.

YOUR SPECIAL ATTENTION
is called again to photo 61. To the right
you see a large tree. We have been talk-
ing of the one to the left, which was
planted in 1885. We have said this tree
was large and cost in proportion to its
size. The other, to the right, was a little
switch which the man had pulled up and
thrown into his wagon. He gave it to the
property-owner, who, out of curiosity,
stuck it in where you see it. It started
to grow, and it grew! and grew! 7 and
grew! ! ! and is growing so fast that it
seems they must move the house back or
cut away a part of the tree.

Here, then, is the all-important point.
Why did this plant thrive so well? For
the simple reason that its feeding roots
were not destroyed, and there was no
large trunk there to become exhausted.
If you go to the woods for a shade tree,
by all means select something that you
can pull up with your hands, instead of

one that would fill

a one-horse wagon.

With the small tree

in ten years you

will be five years

ahead of the large

one, and (the small

one ) , being perfect-
ly health}-, will gain

yearly over the

large one in the

same proportion as

it has started.

Almost every-
one ordering nur-
sery stock has a

mania for getting

big trees, and are

angry if large ones

are not delivered

to them. This is a

serious mistake. It

is better for you to

pay one dollar for

a tree two years Photo 44>

old than to have a six-year-old as a gift. There is a great advantage in procuring trees
from a good nursery, as nursery stock is transplanted from the seed-beds and, therefore,
have more feeders. But, by all means, take a small plant; in shade trees not more than

an inch in diameter at the base, and in
fruit trees not more than half that size. I
repeat, it is better for you to pay more for
a small plant.

THE SECOND GREAT EVIL.

Following the one great mistake of
planting too large a tree, resulting in dead
center, as we have shown, comes the al-
most universal blunder of forming the
head too low. Nurserymen are, in part,
to blame for this misleading step. It is
taken for granted that the average nursery
firm know their business. Photo 62 pre-
sents to you a cherry tree as the head was
formed when it came from the nursery,
and you have but to stop and think for a
moment to recall the fact that most all
trees come in a similar form. While
growing in the nursery the leader was cut
off where the short cross-line indicates.

Last spring (1901) two of my ac-
quaintances ordered at the same time,
from the same firm, and the trees came
together. There was no noticeable differ-
ence; cherries, apples, pears and all had

Photo 48.

their heads formed about the same height.
One of the gentlemen was a very indus-
trious man. He set his own trees and did
it carefully, but the tops were too heavy
for what roots remained. All of the trees
but two died. Photo 62 is one of the dead
ones taken on August igth. The other
neighbor, not having confidence in him-
self, prevailed on us to set his trees. All
the lateral (or side) branches were taken
off, preserving nothing but the leader.
The%- all grew finely. Photo 63 is one of

the batch, an apple. The head had been formed in the nursery; it consisted of the
leader, which is preserved, and four laterals. The four latter, at the lower cross-line,
were taken off and all the force of the root was thrown into the remaining leader, result-
ing in a new growth of over 2 feet, starting from the terminal bud, which was situated
where the long cross-line is drawn. At that point there are several healthy young shoots
ready to start into activity with the opening spring. These will be all rubbed off and
the head will be formed just where you see the bunch of leaves at the top. No cutting
will be done for one year; then the leader will be cut out at the point which is now the
top. We will thus start with the head of the tree formed about 7 feet from the ground.
27

Adding to this the elongating growth of the
stem, you will have an apple tree with the head
8 feet or more in height. I repeat that the prin-
cipal blame for this misguidance is attributable
to the nurserymen. They never should form
the head of the cherry, apple or pear. Neither
do I see any reason why they should that of the
peach or plum. They have no possible means
of knowing who will purchase the stock, or in
what situation the tree will be placed, or what
height the head will be needed. It is true that
in some localities in the west, and, indeed, in
various situations throughout the land, where
strong winds prevail, people will occasionally
form the heads of a whole orchard of trees low,
so that the fruit will not be violently shaken
from the trees. But, admitting this fact, the
man who plants thus should be able to get
straight, young trees, and then clip the tops

wherever he chooses. It is self-evident that the nurseries never have purposely made
this blunder. It is an oversight, and it has taken time to develop the error.

The way to get small trees is, let the people demand them. Of course, there will be
small, lateral branches; these you can remove after planting. If you desire to use your
trees for wind-breaks, or to hide some unsightly objects, or for shade in the chicken yard,
etc., etc., all there is of it is one slash with the pruning knife and nature will obey your
mandates. In discussing this question, there is one thing above all others that I desire
to impress upon you, viz. : When you plant a shade tree form the top the desired height
and then keep hands off! Leave nature alone, with the exception of cutting out interfer-
ing branches, or clipping the ends of drooping ones; or, possibly, when the tree is young,
shortening the leader to make the head more bushy. By interfering branches we
mean those that cross each other. An example is given in
photo 64. By the constant friction with the wind they cut
through the bark and grind one into the other. Decay is the
result, and it runs up into the smaller branches as shown in
the photo. Remove all such. There is also a constant ten-
dency for the lower limbs to droop by the weight of the foli-
age, rain, snow, etc. With some kinds of oaks, elms and
maples, if you were to form the top 15 feet high, in time the
tips of the lower branches would touch the ground.

In planting shade trees, unless you desire to shut off the
view of some undesirable objects, form the top from 12 to 15
feet high. This is very easily done if you plant a small tree.
Photo 65 shows you that the lady can take charge of such
fascinating work. That tree was set two years ago, and the
top clipped off. Now the lady bends it down and clips the
tops of the half dozen vigorous young shoots that have started.
This makes the head more bushy. The tree is no larger than
a common broom handle, and the stem is about 14 feet long.
Photo 66 presents to you an early Richmond cherry tree.
It is very healthy and has a nicely-formed top. The head is
strong and formed about 7 feet from the ground. Photo 67 is
a maple with the lower branches about 8 feet from the ground.

Photo 53.

It would be well to form
apple orchards nearly or
quite that height.

W. I. Chamberlin,
editor of The Ohio Farmer,
is a wise man. He has a
large orchard, the heads of
whose trees are formed in
this way. Photo 68 gives
you a partial view of said
orchard with Mr. Chamberlin under a bending limb of apples, which hardly reaches
his head. He plows and cultivates right under the trees. This photo was taken about
the middle of August. In a drive of some twenty miles that day, all other orchards were
about alike. They looked dried, famished and root-bound, with here and there a few
gnarly apples. But Mr. Chamberlin 's had
been plowed and sowed to Hungarian grass,
which he said he would cut and put under
the trees to prevent the bruising of the fruit

Photo 5^

Photo 56.

and to mulch

the roots and

feed the trees.

Wise man ! I

hear h e made

some $2,000

from his crop.

He told me he

had "sprayed"

twice, and it is

certain that I

never saw a

firmer, healthier

growth of wood

than the whole

orchard pre-
sented right in

the month of

August, a strong

argument in

favor of. cultivat-
ing.

Some say that they would prefer fruit trees to the
maple, elm, etc., for shade. Well, if that is your choice
you could have your wishes gratified. Photo 69 shows you
what "might have been" in the way of a shade tree. This
is one of the well-known Baldwin apple trees. Look at
its powerfvil arms. It is over 60 feet in diameter of branches. Suppose the head had been
started up at the second tier of limbs, instead of down low, and suppose that no " tree-
butcher ' ' had as-
sailed it, as you
see they have,
what a magnifi-
cent sight it
wouldbe,and how
pleasant thirty or
forty bushels of
nice Baldwins
would look in the
cellar! Photo 70
shows you a nice
young maple with
the head formed
about 1 2 feet from
the ground Photo
71 gives us the
wise and unwise
methods of plant-
ing for shade. In
this picture you
will notice two
houses to the left,
upon which the
flitting shadows Photo 61.

Photo 60.

of the overhanging trees are playing. These trees
are hickories and oaks. They are the second growth
of the native forest. You notice they are free
from branches to the height of the eaves of the
houses. In the heat of summer it is always cool
under them, and, the light and air not being ob-
structed, there is a strong, heavy sod on the lawns.
To the right is a new house and no trees in front,

except the one that the gentleman has his hand on. This plant came from the nursery,
and the head was formed less than 6 feet from the ground. Mr. and Mrs. Miller are dis-
cussing what is best to do with such a tree. It is a healthy plant, but there is no leader.
The proper thing to do is, take it up and set it somewhere else and put another here, and
form the top at least as high as the eaves of the porch.

Does the stress that I put on forming the head so high seem too strong? Well, how
many are there who desire to have their front or side view shut off ? You may find one
in ten thousand with that queer notion, but most people like to " see out," and if you
have a good house others like to " see in."

Photo 67.

A FEW EXAMPLES
will now be presented which will
exemplify the folly of forming
the head of the tree too low.
Photo 73 shows you what is
commonly called a " buckeye."
This is not the buckeye proper
(that is a native of America), but the English horse-chestnut. This tree stands directly
in front of a very nice house on the most prominent street of the town. Who wants the
view intercepted in this way? What shall be done with it? Put the "tree-butcher" at it?
No ! For what he does not cut off he will kill ! It was a wrong place to plant it, but if
the owner insisted on it, the formation of the top should have been where the line is run
across. The tree then would have been majestic. Now, probably, it will be taken out.
Painful to think of it, for it is one of the healthiest trees that ever grew.

We call your attention again to the larger tree in photo 61. There is an excellent,
up-to-date house back of it. In the first place, this tree is too close to the house, but if
it had to go there the head should have been formed not lower than the cross line. Photo
72 also teaches a strong lesson. This is a very prominent street. You see a row of very
healthy young maples; the tops are very symmetrical. These trees were planted in 1884.
There are three of the handsomest houses in the village hidden behind them. This

Photo 69.

obstruction of view won't be long tolerated; the "tree-butcher" will probably be put to
work. Then could those trees but speak! How deplorable to have such beauties cut to
pieces! Had those heads been formed where the line indicates, the view, both from
within and without, would have been all that could be desired.

In photo 74 you have glimpses of some very healthy maples in front, of the beautiful
M. K. Church in the city of Kent, Ohio. Photo 75 shows you the same after being
pruned. There is a row of these clear up the hill, but the tops were so low that they

interfered with umbrellas and prevented
seeing more than half way up or down
the hill. Now the view is fine, as you
will see by photo 76. Photo 77 presents
a most charming sight. It is a row of
maples planted some fifty years ago.
They are east of the city of Kent. Un-
fortunately, as in most all cases, they
were not started high enough. The
branches drag on buggy tops and other
vehicles. Unless great caution be taken
the "tree-butcher" will put in some of
his destructive work on them. What
grandeur there is in perfect trees, and
how much they enhance the value of
real estate. Take by way of contrast with
the foregoing picture, the one numbered
78. Here you have little trees, big trees,
live trees, dead tree, etc., disproving the
assertion that "variety is the spice of
life;" at any rate, it is not in this case.

Photo 70.

For the last few years there
has been a great rage on the Caro-
lina poplar. They are immense
growers, especially where they can
get to moisture. You can see what
a rapid growth they make by look-
ing at photo 79. They were quite
small trees when planted, and what
you see is the work of only three
years. These, also, came with the
leaders cut out and heads started
not more than 4 feet high. (You
see they already shut off all view. )
By glancing at photo So, you can
learn how these were pruned. A
ladder was stood up straight beside the
tree and held firmly while the operator
took out the tops. Then the side branches
were taken away and the wounds carefully
painted. Photo Si presents to you a fine
row of these rapid-growing trees, but they
are close by a drain, to which they are
destructive. Photo 82 shows you how they
will get between the joints of tiles and
grow and flatten out there, and photo 83.
exhibits the fine roots as pulled out after
two years' growth. They will not only
obstruct drainage, but completely fill the

Photo 74.

tile. None of the poplars are long-lived.
The "Lombards" are pretty, but soon get
ragged or dead tops, as shown in photo 84. Photo 7S-

You frequently run across one-sided trees, which, to the average person, would be a
puzzle as to how to prune them. Photo 85 shows you one of them, and 86 teaches how it
has been doctored. Notice all the lower branches are taken off and all but the small one
in the upper part. The head is now formed above the eaves of the house. This tree is
treated substantially like that in photo 87 should be. One grew out of shape by the force
of the wind; the other by having a larger tree close by. In photo 87 all comes off to the
left of the vertical line, and all under the cross line. This leads us to consider the matter
of too close planting. Photo 88 gives you an excellent example. This is a row of fine
rock maples. The heads were started at a fairly good height, but they were set less than
20 feet apart. Planted close, their branches interlocked, and if a hurricane comes that
•way it is apt to plow its way clear through them, which is what happened with these. A

mild cyclone came along and
tore the top of the seventh tree
clear off and threw it upon the
house, and took the greater part
of the one on both sides, as
shown in photo 89. In thejmth
of the same storm were single
trees that bent, and twisted, and
swayed every way and were not
hurt in the least. How grand is
a tree that stands out bold and
symmetrical and clear from all
others ! Why do people persist
in planting so many trees? Why
not have less of them and per-
fect ones ?

TO SUM UP ALL,
you have this, namely: First,
plant small trees; and second,
plant far enough apart ; third,
form the tops high.

There is a pruning imple-
ment that is not generally
known, or its value is not appre-
ciated. It is shown in photo
93. It is Water's Improved
Pruner. Of all the implements
used in preserving the form of

shade trees, nothing is
so serviceable as this
simple, but effective
little tool. It should
be placed on the mar-
ket by the hundreds of
thousands.

As I have said, the
tendency of our best
shade trees is for their
lower branches to
droop and obstruct
view or interfere with
passage. When you
have once formed the
head the desired
height, then, with this
pruner, you clip off
the ends that would
otherwise droop and
be in the way. This implement has a double leverage, one at the upper end, as you see
in photo 93, which shows the blade and a strong steel wire running down a light but
strong staff. This handle, or staff , is made 10, 12, 14 and 16 feet long. Photo 91 presents
the leverage at the lower end of the staff. With this pruner you can easily cut a branch
i inch in diameter. Photo 92 gives you a view of a gentleman putting one of these tools
to a good use. This is Mr. Minich, editor of the Kent Bulletin. He is a great lover of
nature and almost a worshipper of fine trees. I have taken pains to speak of the editors
because, on account of their publishing things at times, which in the opinion of all is
not prudent, they have a great amount of abuse heaped upon them, and scarcely any
credit given for the almost infinite good they do. The press is the power of the age.
The man who drives the quill is shaping the destiny of the nation ! It is largely within
the power of the press to remedy this dire calamity that has befallen our fruit and shade
trees. Write for the papers, present your views, argue your case, and don't forget to
pay your subscription.

There is another pruner that should be brought into general use. It is shown in
photo 94. This is the kind that is used in England. It is, in reality, a large chisel with

a hook welded on it. The hook,
also, has a sharp edge. In England
hundreds of years have taught the
lessons of forming the heads of the
apple tree up out of the ivay. The
trees are pruned, commonly, once
in two years. That being the case,
this pruner is about all the tool
that is needed. These pruners are
made of various sizes and each one
has a staff (commonly of ash), and
it may be anywhere from 10 to 16
feet in length. With the pruner
goes a heavy mallet. You place
the chisel up under at the shoulder;
a few sharp taps on the lower end
of the staff and the branch is off.
With the hook you pull it down. A

Photo 78.

quick shove with the
hands will usually take
off a branch an inch
thick. Water-sprouts
are removed by this
with great speed. You
cau strike upward with
the chisel or dowmvard
with the hook. If the
factories do not put
these on the market, get
your smith to forge one.
In apple trees that are
properly cared for there
is scarcely anything to
be removed but small
branches that cross or
interfere. Always pre-
serve the "fruit spurs."
Some of the finest fruit
grows under the foliage.
Look at photo 95. It is
certain that it was not
Baalam's ass that performed that trimming, but it would be interesting to get the meas-
urement of the ears of the "tree-butcher" who cut off all the fruit spurs, resulting in that
growth of water-sprouts.

Fruit or shade trees may have their heads entirely changed when they are young if
there be a good, strong leader. Photo 96 is an example of how it can be done. This
tree had the top formed too low, and would have shut off all view in a certain direction
from a door and a window. Three-fourths of the branches have been removed. The
trunk can now be straightened. This can be done by running a sharp knife down
through the bark in the inside of the crooked portions. This releases the tension and in
time will draw the stem upright. One of the crookedest (young) trees that I ever saw is
now perfectly straight. Cherry trees have a very tough bark, and it is well to run the
knife clear down from the head to the base, two or three places, every year. When they

are in bloom is a good time.
It will be helpful to the pear
also.

But little pruning is
needed on the plum, cherry,
peach and pear, more than
keeping out the interfering
branches and directing the
growth of the top. By "direct-
ing the growth" I mean it is
within your power to form the
head of a tree almost any way
you desire. I will suppose you
are standing looking at young
trees, and at your left there is
a gap or open space in the top.
You desire to fill that out.
You select a good branch close
to this opening, and then

Photo 82.

fool time away trying to grow apples in
those level, clay counties, unless you select
some elevated place
or specially prepare
the orchard on the
level portions. The
preparations would
consist in plowing,
sub-soiling, manur-
ing well, and then
" back- furrow,"
setting the trees on
the highest part.
Where the "dead-
furrows" come, put
in underdrains, us-
ing 3 or 4 inch tile.
(The socket tile is
the best.) Of
course, to drain
Photo 83.

choose a bud on the side toward that open-
ing. You cut, say, about an eighth of an
inch above that bud with a slanting, draw
cut. You will be surprised to see how
such an opening will fill in.

NOW FOR PLANTING.
Before you can prune or train a tree
you must have one, and before planting
we should know something about the
soil. The grape vine, raspberries, black-
berries and some strawberries do well
in light, porous soil. The apple grows well
on light soil, but is apt to throw its fruit in
hot weather for the want of moisture. The
apple will do well on rich, gravely land
with a firm sub-soil, but the best fruit often
comes from trees planted in a good clay
loam, but it must be well drained. The peach, plum and
cherry will generally thrive where the apple will. The
pear, however, must have day. This is demonstrated by
the object lessons that you get up in Wood and Fulton
Counties, Ohio, and away down the western part of the
state. In Mercer, Darke, Miami, Preble, Montgomery and
other counties where the land is level, with dense clay sub-
soils, the pear does well, but apples are stunted and sickly
and some places look like a lot of old stub brooms. Photo
97 shows one of the best grown on this low, wet, heavy
clay soil. Any place, however, in those counties, if you
come to a knoll or little hill, you will find the apple trees
having the vigorous, healthy appearance as seen in photo
98. It is use-
less to waste
money and

Photo 84.

well, you must have a good outlet.
I am convinced that a great mis-
take has been made in planting
too many trees. If the average
farmer would plant ten trees instead
of one hundred, taking care to set
the small tree, guard it well, form
the top in the proper place, prune
judiciously, etc., he would get ten
times more cash than he does from
the plant-anywhere, neglect-and-
starve, saw-hew-wound-and-
slaughter style that now prevails.

It is not my intention to give
particular instructions on the man-
agement of the dwarf, ornamental
fruit trees; how to form the "pyra-
midals," "cordons," "espaliers,"
etc., as there is not one in a thou-
sand would adopt those forms; but
the preparation for these and mode
of planting is the same as for the
"standards." If you are going to
plant an orchard, take time to pre-
pare the soil. You should take at

least two years in manuring, plowing and sub-soiling.
On this preparation the health of your trees will largely
depend. The plowing and sub-soiling should not be
less than 18 inches deep. Considerable lime and ashes
should be worked in. Supposing you are ready to plant
and your stock has arrived, now proceed. Measure off,
place a stake where each plant is going to be set. Ex-
amine the roots of your plants. If there are any broken
roots prune as shown in photo 99. Make a draw-cut
from under. Roots are just as susceptible of injury as
the branches. If you cut the roots from under the
wound will heal. If you make a downward cut from
above, or a side cut, the water soaks down on it and
causes decay. It matters not whether it be your little
Photo 86. toe or little finger that is injured, the whole body suffers

in proportion to the wound. Plants suffer in like man-
ner. Now dig out the hole, say, 4 feet in diameter (I am supposing you have small
trees) and 18 inches deep. Scatter in about 2 inches of fine surface soil. Proceed by
setting the plant. Have someone to hold it upright. Spread out the roots in all direc-
tions. Fill in the hole up to within 2 inches of top with good soil. Now pour in one or
two pails of water; pass on and set another tree, etc. When the water has soaked away
fill up around the tree and step on it lightly to make the earth firm. By using water
freely you embed every little fibre and close all air chambers. You should use the tile
(as shown in photo 100) as a tree guard. (This is an apple tree and the top should be
formed up where the hand is pointing.) If you use a stake, set it outside the tile. Put
a piece of old carpet or cloth between the stake and tree to prevent chafing; and don't
fail to keep some bit of cloth around the tree at the upper end of the tile. If you use a
4-inch tile it will entirely prevent mice and rabbits from girdling the tree. When your
tree is filling up the tile, a few taps with the hammer and your guard is out of the way.

This guard not only prevents the mice
and other vermin from destroying young
trees, but prevents the terrible havoc from
plows, drags, whiffletrees, etc., by
thoughtless teamsters. These instructions
apply to the planting of all trees, but it
is supposed you have selected some favor-
able situation for your orchard.

LOW LANDS

are not favorable places for fruit trees.
On average hillsides, the higher the bet-
ter. Peaches should not be planted on
land sloping to the east or south. In 1885
the weather became warm in the latter
part of February. By the nth of March
peaches were in full bloom. By the 22nd
of March the mercury stood 8 below zero.
The blossoms were not only killed, but
the bark of the trees ripped open. This
happened in the upper part of Central
Ohio. While there may be some modifi-
cations in the various parts of so large a
country as the United States, yet it is well
to plant with a view of holding the buds
back in the spring. In the regions of the
great lakes the low temperature of the
water will affect the temperature for miles
inland, and planting on low lands has
been a partial success.

Take this as a general guide, viz. : Set
cherries on land sloping to the east or
south; plums and peaches on the hillside
sloping to the west or north, or on a hill-
top. To make sure of success
with the pear, plant it on land
slanting toward the north. Ap-
ples are comparatively safe in
any of the foregoing situations,
but cannot be relied upon, as
before stated, in low, cold or
wet lands. On sandy or gravely
soil it will pay you well to help
your trees to get a . start. To
accomplish this, dig a hole 6
feet in diameter and 3 feet deep.
Procure a lot of sod and pitch it
into the hole and tramp it down,
about half filling it (there is no
better plant food than rotted

sods), then plant the tree as before directed. Of course, in rich, deep soils, this is not
necessary. Those owning property on low lands can hold their trees back in spring if
they will keep everything scraped away till the earth has frozen 6 inches or more. Then
cover up with ashes, sawdust, coarse manure or anything that will hold the frost.

Photo 87.

must have particular
attention. I have just
said that it should be
planted on a northern
slope. Indiggingahole
for the pear go 6 feet
deep, and fill up about
4 feet with sods and
clay loam from the
roadside or pasture lot;
finish planting as with
other trees. "Six feet
deep!" you exclaim.
Well, that is what I
said, and just what I
mean, when you plant
on sandj or gravel.
The pear is like the
rose, it must have clay.
Also, it must have
depth of soil. When
your young pear tree
arrives, look at its
roots: vou will observe

Photo 90.

that they run doiun, and that is where you must
put their food. "I'll never dig over 2 feet deep,"
said one, and he didn't; but seven years after-
wards he had the trouble of digging them all out. Nature is kind, but she can be just
as stubborn as you can. She is never known to shirk, but she will not do your part. If
you dig deep in clay soil you must provide an outlet for the superabundance of water in
a wet time, for some clay will hold water like a pitcher. This dead water will destroy
the feeding rootlets. This is one reason why sub-soiling is recommended for orchards;
it not only provides moisture for the plant in dry weather, but it carries off all surplus
water. This leads us into the consideration of blight.

Photo 93.
BLIGHT.

Blight is not in itself a disease, as people are
in the habit of supposing. Many eminent authori-
ties have erred concerning this. They have taken
the microscope and discovered countless numbers
of spores, fungoids and infinitesimal insects feed-
ing on the dead foliage of the plant, and they seem
to have hastily drawn the conclusion that these
creatures have killed the plant.

The microscope does not mislead us; there are
the spores and insects on the dead leaf. Aye! Aye!
But what killed the leaf? Was it the creatures that
you behold ? or was it something else ? It was not
these creatures; they had not the power to kill a
healthy plant. Health defies all disease ! Medi-
cal science, I think, now claims that there is no

such thing as a new disease ; that the germs of disease are all the while in existence. But
if conditions become favorable any malady may make its appearance. Everything feeds
on death. Maggots feed on putrid carcases; toadstools and other fungoid substances exist
on rotten vegetation; we derive our nourishment from dead animals, dead vegetables
and dead grain and fruit. Plants and trees are nourished by composts from other vege-
tation, etc., and the creatures seen on the blighted (dead) leaf of a plant have the same
legitimate right to sustain their lives as we have. Again I ask,

WHAT KILLED THE LEAF?

The answer is one of the simplest, namely: Too much or not enough water. On
page 15 we call your attention to the birth of the mammoth elm. What was true of that
little seed is true of all seeds that develop into a plant or tree. Soak a grain of wheat or
corn, then cut it open and study it; or, better still, soak an acorn. When the shell begins
to crack, open it up. There are two lobes called the cotyledons (seed leaves). In them
is stored up food enough to nourish this little, unborn baby oak. At the bottom of these

lobes is attached a lump, some-
what hard ; this is called the
"radicle. ' ' In the center of this
is a little point called the "plum-
ule." Moisture and heat act
upon this seed and it becomes
excited into life. The radicle
goes doiun and throws out very
minute, hair-like rootlets. At
the same time the plumule
moves upward and carries the
seed-leaves out to the air. The

Photo 94.

plumule in the seed is really the

41

Photo 95.

terminal bud. As this elongates it becomes
the stem or trunk of the tree. From this
simple, but wonderful zero point the work
of plant and tree building commences Just
in proportion to the activity of the roots, so
is the growth of the top; it could not be
otherwise. The little, wee, microscopic
rootlets are away down out of sight, multi-
plying and faithfully gathering moisture and
sending it up to the other extremities. As
the plumule shoots up it forms buds at the
sides; these in time become branches. Out
of these limbs come other branches; from
these, smaller ones. At the ends of all are
what we call the twigs, on which is borne the
leaves. If you want to understand blight
you must always keep this fact in mind, namely: The little
microscopic rootlets and the leaves always ivork reciprocally.
Let me use an illustration. We hear the hum and clatter of
thousands of machines; we see the "iron horses" darting
hither and thither ; the electric cars, like a lot of bumble-
bees, flying here and there ; gigantic steamers plowing the
lakes and oceans, etc. Whence comes all the motive power ?
From the sun. He has stored up heat in the bowels of the
earth in the form of coal. But the direct agents who move
the machines on the surface are the miners. Suppose you
withhold water from the miners ; theyfawis/i and die. Sup-
pose you fill the mines with water and drown the miners,
the result is the same, it is death in either case. That means
stagnation or even death to commerce.

It is just so with your trees and plants. These delicate,
but faithful little fibres gather up the moisture and the leaves
show a corresponding activity. The leaves are real, com-
mercial workers. The leaf receives the sap as it is brought up
by capillary attraction. Oh, wonderful laboratory of nature
is the leaf! It takes the crude sap, spreads it out to the sun's
rays, which decomposes the carbonic acid, and the leaf
throws off the oxygen for the good of man and beast. Cam-
bium is formed and is returned down, layer
upon layer, thus constructing countless mil-
lions of trees whose timber is used in com-
merce, and whose fruits sustain animal and
human life. Trees thus keep up activity in
the commercial world, and thereby prevent
war. The leaves of the trees are, to a large
extent, the factories in which o.rygen is
manufactured, without which the human and
animal creation could not exist. Literally it
is true that ''the leaves of the trees are for
the healing of the nations." Wonderful is
the leaf, and much has been written concern-
ing it; but how comparatively little has been
said about that faithful little miner or rootlet,
that is away down there in the dirt and mud,

spending all its energies to
support the modest or gor-
geous leaf that we so much
adore, and over which we
mourn when we say it is
blighted.

THE ORIGIN OF BLIGHT
is in the destruction of the
smallest rootlets. They are
very susceptible to injury.
They will drown or die of
thirst. Celery, and potatoes,
etc., will blight in prolonged
wet spells. They will blight,
also, from drought. In one
case the rootlets drown, in the
other they work as long as
they can find moisture, then
die of exhaustion — dry up.
What follows? The leaves
droop and die. Then those
dead leaves become the feed-
ing ground for the fungoids,
insects, etc., which we say is
blight.

Photo 101 exhibits to you a case of potato blight. The one to the left was blighted,
that to the right was not. These are the same variety of potato, same quality of seed,
and planted the same day, June 15, 1901, and cultivated all alike. Crop all did well till
the middle of August. The main part of the field was of rather a stiff clay, and below an
average quality of fertility. The faithful plants pumped out all the moisture, then, of
course, the leaves wilted. The drought continued day after day, and one by one the
leaves fell off. What else could take place? At one end of the patch there had been
some vegetable pits the fall before. The pits were some 2 feet deep. They were filled in
the spring and worked over like the remainder of the field. The potatoes did not blight

Photo 98.

Photo 99.

over these pits. Why? Be-
cause the roots went doum and
found moisture among the bits
of leaves and straw that had
been plowed under. They
stood there in perfect health
for six weeks after the main
crop had been dried up. See
the difference in the crop of
tubers ! The sample that you
see at the right were dug after
a sharp frost, about the 8th of
October. Good drainage, a
plenty of fertilizer, deep plow-
ing and frequent cultivating is
the remedy for potato blight,
so-called. What is called blight in trees
comes from the same source, i. e. , the destruc-
tion of the feeding rootlets.

PEACH YELLOWS

seems to puzzle some of our ablest writers.
The peach is tenacious to life, and does not
throw its leaf like the potato, but the leaves,
not having sufficient moisture, partially dry,
turn yellow and drop prematurely. Of course,
you find fungoids and microscopic insects on
the leaves, because you have prepared the
conditions for them. I know of a large
peach orchard planted twelve years ago. It
was situated on a high altitude, and in every
way favorable to that fruit. But the pro-
prietor seems to have thought that if he purchased the
trees and stuck them into the ground the Almighty would
attend to the rest. That is not His way of doing business.
God never helps any but those who "help themselves."
If you want peaches, potatoes, or anything else, you must
" co-operate." This would-be peach grower allowed his
orchard to grow up to grass, briers, etc. This absorbed all
the moisture; none could get to the roots of the trees, and,
sure enough, the whole orchard became struck with blight
(peach yellows). Some who are thus afflicted (?) become
almost blasphemous and charge the blame to Providence.
Dr. H. M. Ladd, of Cleveland, Ohio, has a large
poultry farm at Kent, Ohio (Crescent Farm). They raise
the highest breeds of fowls. Mr. E. T. Blood is the man-
ager. They have selected the finest kinds of fruit trees
for the pens. In 1895 they planted apples, peaches and
plums. In the following year a larger number of the

same species, and also pears were added. They have experimented. All trees had the
ground prepared and the trees were carefully set. Hen manure has been applied freely
to some, and soil kept worked, thus furnishing both a stimulent and moisture. Photo
102 is one of the peach trees. It is so healthy that the bark shines. As you will see, the
picture was taken before the leaves had developed, just when the blossoms had expanded.

Phot

Photo 103 is a cherry tree planted in the fall
of 1896. These examples show what good
planting and constant attendance will do.
Photo 104 shows you late Crawford peaches
in the lady's right hand, grown under right
conditions, and in her left is the same kind
grown under an unfavorable state of things.
Photo 105 presents to you a stem of the Cham-
pion peach rightly cared for.

I would suggest this: Take time, pre-
pare for the trees rightly, even though you
do not plant so many. If you do not prepare
the soil aright and plant as you ought, your
trees will be only a mockery to you.

THE PEAR BLIGHT

has been the greatest mystery. On account
of the peculiar constitutional makeup to the
tree, it has been hard to comprehend the
Photo 104. cause of the dead branches. It is well known

that in stepping around on the branches and loosening the bark, when gathering
the fruit in hot weather, will kill the leaves on such a branch. Also, a heavy
freeze in late spring, or excessively hot weather in
the summer months, have both the same effect. On
the night of the i6th and ijth of May, 1895, there
was a very heavy freeze — a regular hoar frost. \Vater
in a washtub froze 2 inches thick. Marrowfat peas 4
feet high were cut so that they lopped over. Two
days before this I had pruned six pear trees ; they
were in full leaf and bloom —a beautiful sight ! Two
days after the frost five-sixths of the leaves were
almost black. What had taken place ? Just this, viz. :
The freeze had ruptured the little cells that were con-
veying the sap, just as a tumbler full of water would
be rent by the same force. This took place not only
in the leaves, but in the twigs and smaller branches.
Circulation stopped. There were no /eaves now to
throw off the surplus moisture. The pumps had stopped,
the miners (rootlets) drowned ! Commerce above (the
work of the leaves) had suspended. No cambium was
returned to construct the roots. Death by the tens of
thousands occurred to those wonderful subterranean
workers. Those trees stood there in a state of stagna-
tion for a whole year before they could adjust them-
selves to this terrible shock. They were on a gentle
slope toward the south. Had the same trees been on a
northern slope the leaves might not have been expanded
and the whole tree would have been in a more sluggish
state, and would not have suffered so much, and probably scarcely any.

SUMMER BLIGHT

is caused from the opposite extreme — excessive heat. A pear tree would never blight in
the heat of summer if it had all the moisture it could use. The stunted geranium in
photo 159 has suffered from exactly the same cause that kills your pear branches— lack

Photo 105.

of moisture. You have a garden ; it is a sandy loam ; you keep it clean and manure
heavily; everything flourishes, fruit trees and all. I will suppose your pear trees are
seven years old or more. You are delighted as you look at their symmetrical tops
and vigorous foliage. Did you ever think how much moisture is thrown off by the foli-
age of one of these trees from sunrise to sunset ? And have you made provisions to sup-
ply the water ? Probably you have not. Some day the mercurv will run up to nearly
a hundred in the shade. Then could the thousands of little working fibres but speak !
How they would cry out, "Water ! Water !" They are not supplied; alas, they perish !
There are always some branches more favorably situated than others; the sap flows more
easily into these, while others get little or none. The latter dry up and wither; the leaves
turn almost black, and we exclaim, " It is blighted !" As has already been remarked,
stepping on a branch in hot weather will sometimes produce this same effect. In this
case you rupture the bark and stop the circulation, which, of course, is followed by death
to the foliage.

It is commonly supposed that blight in a pear tree is contagious. It is not directly,
but in an indirect sense it is, but not any more than in other trees. Dead branches or
dead stubs on any tree contribute of their dead, watery substance to the living circulation,
and is equivalent to blood poisoning in the human system, and, therefore, should be
removed as soon as discovered.

You can now understand why I contend that the pear must have a great depth of
soil. I have asserted that the pear must have clay. This is not so much on account of
the substances in the clay that enter into plant food, as it is that clay retains the moisture
so much better than light soils. My opinion is that if the method of subterranean water-
ing, which is suggested for use in the city of Cleveland, were used (see photo 115) there
would be but little or no summer blight in the pear. Blight from late spring freezing is
not entirely under our control.

But very little is ever heard of pear blight in England. If that country is not "the
home of the pear," it is a natural climate for it. Never having the late spring freezes
nor the excessive summer heat, no destruction of leaf or rootlet is accomplished from
those sources. The southern and middle portions of the United States will never be
entirely free from pear blight, but it is possible to obviate nine-tenths or more of it by
the judicious selection of location and the provision for water in the very hot, trying
days, especially when the tree is laden with fruit.

The Tyson pear seldom ever blights, because its roots correspond directly to the
branches. The latter have a straight upward growth; the former plunge nearly straight
down, and if any tree will find moisture the Tyson will. The Bartlett blights quite
easily, but we can take you to a place where a large Bartlett stands and bears regularly
every year and has never blighted. The whole trunk of the tree and the ground in
which it stands is shaded after noon. The soil is thus kept cool and considerable mois-
ture retained. Young pear trees do not blight from the heat of summer because, being
small and newly planted, they find all the moisture needed.

Suppose you apply the Golden Rule to the pear tree. Suppose you were the pear
tree, and you had stood there year after year faithfully guarding your precious treasures
(the buds) in the storms of winter. In spring you develop your leaf and flower bud, and
go on through the heat of summer. Now comes a real hot day. You call on all your
faithful helpers below to send up " more water !" They work till they are exhausted.
You now withhold your support from the weaker branches and try to save the best. You
succeed in saving some. Then the owner comes along and exclaims, " Look at that
miserable tree ! I have a notion to take an ax and cut it down." Between your sobs I
think I hear something as follows: " Sir, we have wrought to the best of our ability;
thousands of my assistants have died of thirst. Had you supplied us with water this
calamity would not have happened."

Whatsoever you would that men should do for you, if you were a pear tree, do ye
even so for the tree.

Calamity of the City of Cleveland.

"The Forest City." This is what the lovely city of Cleveland is called, and they
have not a tree in it worthy the name ; at any rate, not within a mile of the Square.
Clevelanders sorely regret this and have labored hard to procure the desired shade. De-
feat has met them on every hand, and it seems that the causes of their failure have baffled
their wisest heads. "Why can't we grow decent trees on the Public Square?" has been
asked by thousands of Cleveland's best citizens. One says the failure is caused by gas
leakage, another assigns it to electric currents, a third attributes it to smoke, another this,
another that. Good citizens of Cleveland, there is just one cause of all your failures with

shade trees. There are some other
minor matters that work adversely to
your trees in some parts of the city,
which I will present!}- explain. The
one cause of your trouble is not due to
electric currents, nor smoke, nor any
other atmospheric condition. Were
that the case, it would affect your
flowerbeds and other plants. You will
recognize a portion of the southeast
corner of your Public Square as shown
in photo 107. In no part of the
United States is there a healthier or
handsomer lot of plants grown than
around your soldiers' and sailors'
monument. This is true, also, in your

public parks, an
effectual and an
abiding testi-
mony to the
skill of Mr. M.
H. Horvath, the
superintendent.
This gentleman
is one of the best
read and beat
drilled fl o r a 1
and landscape
professors that I
have ever met in
Europe or this
country.

"Well, what
is the cause of
the trouble,"
you ask. Look
at the leafless
Photo 108. elm tree in

photo 106. This photo and No. 107 were taken on September 6, 1901, about two hours
before the fiendish coward fired the deadly shot at our beloved President McKinley.
These two photos preserve the mementoes of love and respect which, in the decorations,
Clevelanders manifested toward the Grand Army of the Republic, which they were pre-
paring to receive and to which the President was to attend. Now look at that elm in
photo 106. What's the matter with it? Is it blighted ? Yes, it is, if that is the term
you wish to use (see blight, pages 44-49). It is blighted so badly that all its foliage has
dropped, even before the maples had put on their autumn tints. What has happened is
this: Every delicate, succulent little fibre that gathered moisture has become exhausted
and died of thirst. What shall I say? "Shame!" No, because you knew not what you
were doing. Photo 108 shows you what they were doing on the Square on November gth.

They were digging
holes 6 feet deep
and 5 feet in diame-
ter. (The trees
planted there are
healthy, but not of
good form. They
will do well for a
few years, but can-
not make large
ones. ) From these
holes were taken
the purest and bar-
renest sand. Do
you expect to grow
a majestic elm or a
gorgeous maple in
such material? If
you do you will
wait till Doom's
Dav and a million

years after and then fail.
This sand will not retain
enough moisture for large
trees, besides it has been
affected by deep drains, con-
duits, etc. The remedy is,
pull out every tree you have
there and excavate 4 feet
deep, and run this barren
rubbish down on the lake
front and then fill in with a
good clay loam. Dispense
with sod and cover with 3 or
4 inches of gravel. Do this
and then you can grow the

Photo

elm or maple with top from 50 to 75 feet in diameter. "What !"
you exclaim, "would you recommend such a radical move, in-
volving such an enormous expense T ' I would. You have spent
enough to accomplish this ten times over and have nothing but
objects of vexation. But I am sure you will not take such a
rash step until you have some assurance that this would be a
remedy. It is well to take cautious steps. Hence, I make you
the following proposition, namely: If your park officials will
do just as 7 tell them, I will plant eight small elms on that part

of your Square shown in photo 109. These elms will in time completely cover that entire
plat. I would form their heads not less than 15 feet high, so as not to obstruct any view.
The heads of the trees that you have now are all too low. Look at those scrawny
excuses for trees in front of the Forest City House. The tops should be up high, but the
branches are so low that they (together with the scrubby underbrush called shrubs, a
rendezvous for that wonderful songster, the English sparrow) cut off all view across the
Square. I will plant and care for said elms for ten years, and neither trees nor my indi-
vidual labor shall cost your city one cent. As your whole city is built on sand, your city
officials ought to have "sand" enough to take up my proposition and have the test made.
You can never get a fairly good shade tree on your streets that are paved unless you
plant in another situation. Photo in is a portion of Euclid Place. There is a row

of sickly, bark-peeled, scrubby maples
planted down the street that you see. All
pains have been taken to make a success
with them. But, in the first place, the
trees were too large wThen planted, pro-
ducing dead centers (see page 31), and
second, they never can amount to any-
thing there, because, in addition to hav-
ing nothing but pure sand to root in, the
street is paved and thereby shuts off all
rainwater from penetrating. Though they
have provisions for watering and have
iron tree guards, yet there they will stand
year after year, trying to thrive, but will
be nothing but scabby, diseased objects,
•which finally will be torn off by the wind
or otherwise perish.

The place for shade trees on such
pared streets is inside the fence, on the
lawn, as shown in photo 113. Trees
properly planted, say, 3 feet from the
walk, inside, would in a few years cover
the sidewalk and ultimately go to the
middle of the street. You frequently see this where the soil is good. Photo 114 shows
you a row of maples planted inside the fence, whose branches extend to the middle of a
6o-foot road. This is west of the beautiful little city of Ravenua, Ohio. To prove to you

Photo 115.

what I say, I call your attention again to photo in. The first tree is in front of Mr. F.
H. Clark's. This gentleman is a member of the Eclipse Electrotype Engraving Com-
pany, of Cleveland, who executed the engraving of this work. Mr. Clark almost adores
a fine tree. He ordered the trees which you see in front, and, of course, put the best
there; he had one left and stuck it in the back yard. Photo 1 10 is the one. Look at its
robust habit, and mark the heavy foliage in contrast with ones in front that have lost
nearly all their leaves. What is the cause of the difference ? Just this, namely: Those
in front are root-bound, and have not been able to procure a sufficient supply of water.
Mr. Gorgeous in the back yard has had no restraint on his roots; he has been rambling
all around the dooryard and quietly (don't tell anyone!} has crept under the fence into
the neighbor's garden and yard, and is on the right course to compare favorably some
day with that handsome tree on page 21 You Clevelanders can secure fine trees if you

will take the right steps. You should
entirely abandon the attempts to grow in
the narrow borders between the paved
street and sidewalk, and set the tree
about 3 feet in from the walk. For each
tree excavate 3 feet deep and 6 feet in
diameter. Fill in the bottom i foot high
with sods of a claye}' nature to retain the
moisture. Tramp down the sods well.
Then use the device shown in photo 115
for subterranean watering. This consists
of four "T" 3-inch tiles, one placed in
the other, as you will see, from one of
which other tiles run, through which
the water is conveyed to the square. The
ends of these tiles composing the square
are closed with cement, also each joint is
cemented at the bottom and half way up
the sides. This forces the water all
around and it comes out at the upper side
at each joint. Set a small tree and cover
with good soil as directed on page 41. As
a tree grows, circles of these tiles can be
placed in the ground 2 feet deep. The

54

first circle should be, say, 6 feet
(radius) from the tree, the next 10, etc.
By this subterranean method of water-
ing you can grow very fine trees in the
city of Cleveland, though they never
will be as large as in localities where
all the soil is adapted to hold moisture
and furnish the necessary food for the
plant. It is safe to say that you can in
this way produce healthy elms, maples
or even oaks that would form heads
from 30 to 50 feet in diameter. Where
the tree is exposed, use the German
Tree Guard, as shown in photo 1 16. This
was taken in front of Mr. Paul E. Wer-
ner's, Akron, Ohio. Almost every child
has heard of Paul E. Werner, to whose
energy and tact Akron is indebted for the
largest printing establishment in the
world. If Mr. W'erner does not worship
at nature'1 s shrine he sings her praises.
He has had great trouble in starting trees
(paved streets again, you see), and he in-
troduced this commendable tree guard
from Germany, where, he says, he saw

Photo 118.

them in every city. The danger in planting trees in yards
is, that thoughtless people run the lawn mower against
them, which ruins the tree. A specimen of this is seen
in photo 117. The remedy is a simple one, namely: Cut
the sod away from the tree to the distance of a foot, as
shown in photo 118. Keep this hoed to prevent weeds
starting. It is beneficial every way, as the rain soaks in
and helps the plant. You plant too thick in Cleveland
and form the tops too low. Plant 30 feet apart. The row
of trees down by the lake front are among your highest,
but they cut off the view of the lake. (See photo 112. )

Very sensible tree guards made of wire have lately
appeared to keep horses from gnawing trees. It is as-
tounding how thoughtless people are in such matters.
L,ook at photo 119. This is the result of horses gnawing
the tree when hitched to it. If you have a tree in front
be sure that you have also a hitching-post.

Well, good people of Cleveland, the blame is not to
be attributed to you for having failed to produce good
trees, for you have tried hard and failed, when others
have done nothing and succeeded. It is unfortunate that
all the main part of your city is built on the most sterile
soil and barren sand. As you go east a few miles (Gor-
don Park for example) the soil changes and vegetation
improves. Going west, also, the betterment takes place.
At West Madison Avenue the surface is underlaid with

55

about 2 feet of clay sub-soil, and though there is the barrenest sand under the clay, yet
the trees look fairly well.

The State House grounds at Columbus have but little better trees than the Square at
Cleveland. What the soil is in Columbus I have not had a chance to examine, but Ohio
( "The land of the beautiful" ) should have trees around the State House worthy of such .a
productive and magnificent state. They can have them in Columbus if they will.

Planting trees between the sidewalk and paved streets should be abandoned for two
reasons. First, there would be no interfering with telephone, telegraph and electric
wires. Second, in planting inside the sidewalk, and forming the tops high, the walks
would be completely shaded.

In order for the people of Cleveland to understand the trouble with their trees, they
should study carefully what we have said on "blight." What was said there is here
repeated, namely: There is no such thing as blight as a disease, and further, health
defies disease. Of course, I do not mean that young trees will defy cattle, or healthy
potatoes repel the attacks of bugs, but it is true, according to scientific investigation,
that the potato bug always attacks the weak plant. The scientist informs us that if the
parent bug were to deposit its eggs on a healthy leaf, when they hatched and they ate
through the leaf the flow of sap would be so copious that it would literally drown them.
Hence, by natural instinct the mother bug selects the dryer leaf that her young may not
be subjected to danger. Carry this thought further. Last year you were alarmed at the
inroads of the oyster-shell bark-louse, a tenacious and deadly foe, on your Carolina
poplars. Why did they attack the poplars of Cleveland more than any other place? I
think, upon investigation, you will find that the weak constitution of the trees invited
the attack. Suppose your trees could have made the growth of those of Dr. W. W.
Osgood's, Kent, Ohio (see photo 79), in three years, would not the free flow of sap have
drowned the youngsters and thus defeated the assailants ? I did not see the diseased
trees, but presume they must have been, like all your others, of feeble growth.

In photo 165, you will see a handsome lot of young elms. Pains were taken to sow
the seed and raise these plants for the city of Cleveland. Our representative is authorized
to present one of these plants to each person purchasing THE TREE DOCTOR (as long as
they last) , and instructions for cultivation goes with each tree. Remember, these were
started the first year in the new century, and we call them "the century elm." (See
photo, page 3. ) A test of one thousand elms in your city will prove the truth of the
assertions which I have made. You can grow good trees in Cleveland if you make the
conditions right. It will take time to prepare for the planting. You should agitate for
the calling of public meetings, and adopt every means that will lead to the production of
shade trees which you so much need.

The trees that you now have on your Public Square can amount to but little. The
northeast, northwest and southwest corners should be completely covered with fine foli-
age. You can get it if you will. If your officials wish to accept the eight elms proposed
I will set them either next Arbor Day, or a year from that, and I will keep the plants
growing, and they can take time to make ready. An universal movement should be
made in our public schools concerning trees as the friends of man and beast. Would
like to see Cleveland inaugurate such a laudable work.

What has been said concerning the state of things in Cleveland will apply substan-
tially to any others afflicted in the same manner. It is hoped that Clevelanders will
apply the remedy so that we will not be suspected of burlesque when we speak of "The
Forest City."

Read "Inspection of Nurseries," in the back part of this work.

DEPARTMENT II. Ornamental.

No matter how grand an object may be, the eye tires of sameness. This is exempli-
fied in the fact that rural people have a mania for " moving into town," and town's peo-
ple long for the pure air and charming scenes of country life. Ornamental planting is
not particularly desirable around town or city residences, for, as a rule, there is an over-
balancing of the artificial in urban surroundings. This is one reason why, in the city,
with so much stiffness and lack of a variety of real, living objects, people sigh for rural
scenery, strive to procure fine shade trees and make "pets" of horses and other animals.
The proper thing to do, is to so build and so apply the landscape art as to blend the

Photo 120.

natural and artificial. In cities, ornament planting should not be overdone. In rural dis-
tricts it may be adopted liberally with splendid effect and an enhancement of real estate
value. In England, Scotland and many other parts of the old world, the historic yew
has been freely planted for ornamental purposes. But this is a slow-growing tree and
lives to a great age. You probably have seen the photographs of many of these vener-
able and majestic beauties. It is well to plant the yew, but the average American does
not take to the idea of setting a tree that will mature five hundred years from now. The
American is the man of the ";/0a'/" At any rate, he does not care to wait but a few-
years to see the result of his labor. That being the case, we give you a few examples of
quick-grozL'ing plants that can be used for ornamental work.
57

In photo 120 you see the burial lot of the
Hon. Marvin Kent, in Standing Rock Ceme-
tery, Kent, Ohio. The city of Kent is named
in honor of this venerable gentleman. In
the rear of the lot you observe a tall ever-
green tree. This is a Norway spruce. On
either side of the entrance is a shorn tree ;
these, also, are Norway spruce and the same
age as the tall one. Shearing or pruning has
the tendency to dwarfs, tree or plant. (This
is why skilled gardeners prune fruit trees,
and train them to produce early bearing.)
These trees stood about 15 feet high in 1881.
They were cut back in August of that year.
The shorn arbor-vitae hedge that you see
stood 7 feet high and was cut back at the
same time the trees were. Both trees and
hedges are shorn in August of every year.
Photos I2r, 122, 123 and 124 are all taken
from the beautiful Standing Rock Cemetery.
The arbor-vitae is capable
of being trained into almost
any form. In 121 you will
notice a specimen that resem-
bles a cross. That is what it
was started for, but the train-
ing has not been good. All
that was necessary to secure
this form was to drive a stake
having cross arms. To each
of these a good, strong
branch was fastened and the
top cut off. Another branch
was carried up and the top
clipped out. An annual trim-
ming has brought it into the
present form. It is well for
boys and girls to practice forming designs
with this variety of arbor-vitae. This is the
American arbor-vitae. The arch formed in
photo 122 is the same kind. So is the hedge
and the one seen in the distance, as is also
the hedge in photo 120. By setting four
plants, and about the third year bending
down the branches, you can form a dog or
other animals. A good-sized one in your front
yard might do quite a little "scaring" on
moonlight nights. The two pyramidal trees
in photo 1 23 are the Siberian arbor-vit 02. The
plants of a globular form at the corners in
photo 124 are Hovey's golden arbor-vitae.
The tree in the midst of the lot with the two
rings formed is the American blue spruce.
The arbor-vitae must not be planted under

the shade of other trees,
for they will not grow.
No other tree should be
planted within 20 feet of
them, unless it is one that
is to be shorn. Photo 125
presents to you a case of
failure under other trees.
One of the commonest
mistakes with the arbor-
vitic is not keeping them
Ion1 enough. They have
frail branches and a heavy
snow will crush them, as
shown in photo 126. The
hedge should be allowed
to grow unrestrained for
about four years. Then
cut the plants off, say, 18
inches from the ground.
Be careful to form your
lines rig/it to start with.
Have an uniform plane.
Don't cut the side straight
up and down ; if you do the
foliage will not do well.
Round it over as you see
the hedge is in photo 120.
You cannot form hedges or
ornamental trees from the
pine, fir or larch. The
pine throws out a season's
growth, at the termination
Photo 125. of which are a number of

buds which become latetals (side branches). If you cut off the leaders of the pine you
can stunt or dwarf the tree, but you cannot make it bushy. The spruce is different.

Photo 127 shows you the top of a young
Norway spruce. The leader has been
severed and placed down at the right. If
you look at it you count eight or ten
little knobs distributed at its sides. These
are latent buds. If you clip the top off
all these latent buds become excited into
activity, and on them, also, will be the
latent buds. The more you shear, the
more you excite these dornmant branches,
Hence the Norway spruce is one of the
very best plants for hedges. It is just as
ornamental as the arbor-vitse and possesses
the great advantage of strength. The
hedge that you see in photo 129 is of this
kind, and its strength is such that you
can lay a common fence board on it and
walk on it with pleasure. The hedge is
about 24 years old. In photo 128, to the
left, you see one of these same trees.
Three tiers of branches were taken out
and the bottom ones were trimmed into a
globular form. Up from the middle of
this the main .trunk is allowed to grow.
There is quite a number of these in a row
relieved by a variety of other designs —
arbor-vitae and others. The hedge in
photo 130 is okf Norway spruce. That has
been started rightly, low down, so that it
can be controlled. The plants in that
hedge and the ones in 131 came in the
same box in 1886. This shows what
dwarfing can be done by clipping. If you
were to cut down the plants in the hedge
shown in photo 131, half way, the top
would thicken, but it would never fill out
well below. The only way to get it thick
at the base is to start low, as shown in
photo 130, when the plants are young.
After the lower branches have been
brought out, if you keep the hedge
rounded over, you can gradually bring it
higher and still maintain the density at
the base of the sides.

All evergreens are partial to high and
dry lands. You can do nothing with them
in low, soggy soils. If you desire hedges
in the latter, use osage orange or honey
locust. Before planting a hedge, if the
soil is not good, excavate to the depth of
Photo 129. 2 feet and replace with good soil, placing

sods in the bottom if you can procure them. Use small plants, not more than a foot high.

Keep cultivated. L,et no weeds grow. Mulch heavily with manure in the fall; remove

mulch in the spring.

It is not desirable to have a lot of
evergreens around a dwelling house ; the
wind, whistling through them, "sounds
too much like a cemetery." It would be
well, however, to plant in groves to en-
courage as nesting places for birds.

A LAMENTABLE BLUNDER

has been made in destroying our "feath-
ered friends." A French naturalist has
set forth the fact that the human race
could not exist over nine years if all our
insectiverous birds were destroyed. Kind
Mother Nature has varied her general
plans here ; she has arranged so that we
might not have to wait till our enemies
(the bugs) die of old age, but has given
us the birds to "catch 'em alive." But
we, foolish children, have slaughtered
our best friends, the birds. The swallow
is said to capture some 3,000 flies in a
day ; the chickadee is the destroyer of
the eggs of the canker worm ; the mead-
ow-lark feeds on bugs, as do also the

blackbird, crow and a host of other kinds,
rnoto uu. it. r • j r 1 • j

Among the mends or mankind none is

more faithful than the beautiful, half-domestic quail. In 1900 a great agitation arose in
Ohio, which looked like a war between sportsmen and the farmers. The real facts were,
the agriculturists were struggling to have the quail placed under perpetual protection,
on account of their inestimable value as destroyers of innumerable hosts of bugs and
other enemies of the fanner. City people, as well as agriculturists, must learn the
grave fact that we cannot destroy our friends without paying the penalty. The shooting
of birds for sport has had a baneful effect. We should teach our children the great mis-
take of doing so. Marksmanship, however, should be taught in our public schools, to
both boys and girls. It strengthens the arm muscles and gives a strong nerve, and
confidence takes the place of timidity and fear. Woe the nation, then, that would
assail Uncle Sam !

DEPARTMENT III. Landscaping and Floriculture.

THE LANDSCAPE ART.

The Americans, as a people, are more lavish in their house-building than any other
people on the face of the earth. Not only native-born Americans, but perhaps a majority
of those who "come from o'er the sea" have an innate desire for that sacred something that
we call "home." Indeed, this is the prime, actuating motive that leads the average
foreigner to leave his native land. He dreams of a plot of land that will be his ; of a
house (possibly an humble one) that he can call his home. Aye ! "Home, sweet home."
How little we stop to think of the measureless effort that has been put forth in this direc-
tion, and how few of us think seriously on this one fact, namely: That home-building
is one of the prime factors that enter into the vital energies of our commercial activity.
Let a serious panic come and see what a paralysis seizes on commercial life. But I must
write on economics.

I desire to raise a question here, namely: Considered from an actual financial stand-
point, have we not, in some degree, erred in the methods of expending money ? For
example, you are driving along and you see a costly building, but perhaps it is out of
proportion to the lot, or possibly the person who graded it was better qualified to dig
ditches or drive cows to the pasture than to pose as a landscaper. Or the grading might

be too stiff, as in photo 134,
or the planting might be a
huge blunder, beclouding
the front and shutting off
all views, as in photos 132
and 133. At any rate, your
mental ability to blend and
balance and measure and to
judge of correct propor-
tions tells you ' ' there is
something wrong. ' ' You
drive a little farther and
your attention becomes
riveted on a small property
worth, perhaps, not more

Photo 132. than $5,000. There is the

lovely green front, like a
carpet, with an
occasional shade
tree. Shrubs are
at the side, filling
out the nooks and
corners. The
front yard has
either no flower
beds, or a single
one, a majestic
beauty, as you see
in photo 142; but
that is not in the
middle of the
yard; that would
be too "studied"

62

Photo 134.

and stiff. The lawn is not &JJat, dead level, but slightly rolling, as in photo 135 (a model
"open lawn center," the home of Ira Herriff, the popular undertaker of Portage County,
Ohio.) Look at photo 136. If you were standing on the front porch that is how you
would see the lawn to your left. You will notice the ornamental grasses and other
shrubbery are forced back to the side. This is in accord with the excellent taste of S. T.
Williams, the former owner. Photo 137 presents to you a glimpse of the neat little
property of Dr. W. W. Reed, of Kent, Ohio. There was almost a dead level from the
sidewalk to the bottom of the third tier of underpinning, or "ashler," as it is called (the
point from which the grade starts). This was very objectionable. The remedy was to
excavate about 8 inches inside the sidewalk, gliding dow^n from the walk to a point about
12 feet in from the walk and then gradually raising the grade up to the house. As the
eye now catches the grade it runs up to the house, making it look elevated, though it is
still on a level with the sidewalk. The real art of landscaping consists, very largely, in
producing those illusions. The real landscape artist, like the poet, is born, not made.
He has not an imitative, but a creative mind. No one can ever imitate nature, because
she has no duplicates. I know a gentleman who has spent over thirty-five years in the
art of landscaping and never executed two pieces of work alike. It cannot be done with
success any more than one suit of clothes will exactly suit two persons. The similarity
may be so near that there is no serious objections, yet variety is desirable, because, as we
have said, the eye tires of sameness.

Glance again to photo 134. This is a beautiful house, highly elevated and everything
in favor of bringing out the most charming results. Look at the house; straight lines
and angles. Now look at the terrace; straight, level line with angles at the ends, as if a
level had been used, and the whole job finished with a jack-plane. The want of attrac-
tiveness in this property grows entirely out of the want of variety. Look at the planting.
There are two cut-leaved birch, two arbor-vitas, tu<o Irish junipers, two weigelias, two
roses, etc. The job was probably "bossed" by some boy who had just been learning his
"two times" table. Two hundred dollars' expenditure on the grade of that property and
judicious planting would have added two thousand dollars to its selling value. By a con-
servative estimate on the increase of value of property by the application of the landscape
art puts it somewhere from two to ten dollars for every dollar expended. In building, if
funds are short, it is sensible and profitable to put less into the house and have the

Photo 135.

surroundings complete. A mansion without the landscape finish looks defective and
sometimes repulsive, but a log cabin, with a nicely finished yard, everything "balanced,"
with neat walks and drive proportional in width to the frontage, and a judicious arrange-
ment of trees, shrubs and flowers, brings forth spontaneously the exclamation: " That is
home /" Many a man who grades yards knows nothing more than to rake off the sur-
face and make it smooth, and has no idea of proportion, waves, rolls, flares, etc., and
cares but little about the quality of soil used and has no understanding how to make the
flower beds (which in new lawns should always be made when the work on the grounds
is being executed). Perhaps these men do the best they know how, but the trouble is
they are not born landscapers, but work of such importance should not be entrusted to
them. Study the art yourselj; determine what you
want and see that your wishes are carried out. To
assist you, some few "pointers" will be given.

Never use a terrace if you can dispense with it.
The main objection against the terrace is, it is hard to
take care of. In 134 there is a double terrace and
there was no need of any. The foundation of the
house might just as well have been two feet lower,
and as the house is back from the street some 200 feet
there was an excellent chance for a graceful slope and
a spacious lawn, with plenty of room (at the side), for
the most gorgeous display of decorative plants. Some-
times the terrace has to be used. Photo 140 gives an
example. That is a property which was said to be
graded when the picture was taken, but it changed
hands and the grade did not suit the new proprietor Photo 136.

Photo 137.

As one stepped from the porch he was in danger of rolling down the grade. That photo
was taken the first week in May. The next photo (141) was taken July 5th, about nine
weeks after. You can see there has been quite a transformation. A team was put to
work scraping in earth to fill out the front, to make the lawn proper wide enough to
show a contrast with the house and for the convenience of the occupants. This made a
very abrupt embankment and had to be sodded, but you will notice that there are no
sharp points, but the terrace rounds up and merges into the lawn. Had this house been
built 10 or 12 feet further back, no terrace would have been needed.

Before you lay out the cellar be sure that the right proportion exists between the
front grounds and the building itself. For example, if the depth of your house is to be
50 feet, it should be no less distance from the sidewalk to the house. A greater depth of
lawn would look better.

You never can apply any landscape art to offset the awkward appearance of a big
house in a small yard. It can only be excused in structures erected (in towns) for board-
ing houses, etc. There is a way to partially overcome the out-of-proportion front yard.
Glance again at photo 140. You see a (comparatively) big house on a little hillock. Now
look at the same house in photo 141. You see the heavy vines growing around the
porch; mark the effect, they hide the woodwork and become, substantially, to the eye
a part of the yard. The landscape artist understands these little points and adopts
" means to the end" to produce different effects. He has to study forms, sizes and
colors like a milliner would in fitting hats for ladies. The art is allied to floriculture,,
and, like bouquet-making, there are no set rules — naturalness is the thing to be studied.
There are thousands of people who have natural taste and adaptation for this charming-
vocation, who never have taken the first step in the way of application. Develop your-
selves; let us have more charming landscape. One of the most deplorable things is the
waste of the best soil. Usually the house is "let" by contract. Stake out the cellar.
Bring on the teams ! Scoop out the soil ! Cover it up with clay, gravel, sand or any-
thing that comes in the way! Drag this over, work it down, rake it off, scatter in the
grass seed, plant the trees, shrubs, flowers, etc., we'll soon have a yard. Of course, you
will; you'll have a yard and nothing in it ! Don't curse the seedman because the grass
seed wasn't good; don't find fault with Providence because everything is dying on your
hands. Make conditions favorable and all will come out right. See that every bit of
soil is taken care of. Fill all depressions with stones, rubbish, sand, brick-bats, gravel,
anything, in fact, that will not settle. Put on the top soil; get your grade pretty near
where you want it, and then, well, don't be in a hurry ! If it is the fall of the year, let
your lawn lay over till spring, then work it over as soon as dry enough. You will now
accomplish two things, i. e., first, you fill up all depressions, and, second, you will destroy
hundreds of thousands of weeds just as they are germinating. Early spring sowing of
65

grass seed is always a success. Late
spring and summer sowings are not
reliable; the question of their tender
roots standing the torrid heat of July
and August will be determined by the
frequency of showers and cloudy
weather. If you grade your lawn in
the late spring or summer, let it lay
and work it over once in two weeks.
This will kill weeds and all will be
"settled" by the first week in Septem-
ber. Then sow your seed and rake in
and roll.

WHAT IS THE BEST KIND OF SEED?

Kentucky blue grass is the very
best to form a tough sod. White clover

will fill out and make your lawn like a carpet./Itis nause to sow the clover except in the
spring. If you sow in the summer it will burn out. ) If you sow in September it will
start nicely, but most always winter-kill. Don't use the common red clover. The red
and white are both shown in photo 139. The plant to the right is the coarse-growing,
red variety; that to the left, the Dutch or white clover ; specially adapted for lawns. In
photo 138 to the left is a bunch of Kentucky blue grass. )This multiplies by running in
the soil and shooting up new blades, like the lily-of-the-valley . This in itself is pre-
eminently the best lawn grass there is. ^The plant to the right is timothy. We have
often used it in the summer, as it germinates easily and is a strong grower. Sowed with
blue grass the timothy works all right, as the timothy will give out in a few years and
the blue grass will have full sway. The lawnmower, however, must be kept at work or
the timothy, being so much ranker, will crowd out the blue grass. Red top, also, is a
good lawn grass, especially adapted for low, heavy soils. Make your own choice of what
seed you use, but don't use the red clover; too rank. You may get some idea how thick

to sow when I say your seed should lay on
the ground so that (in a rough way of guess-
ing) if averaged up, they would be from a
half inch to an inch apart. The experienced
landscaper, the moment he sees a yard to be
converted into a lawn, has the main points
right before him. The points are the bottom
of the cut stone in the house as a starting
point, and his drops to the drive, sidewalk,
street, etc. Then he has to study how to
carry out a gentle roll, like the brow of a
hill, then to sweep down as if a wave had
receded, and in a variety of ways reproduce
a natural appearance.

The landscaper is in his glory when he
can branch out in parks and other public
grounds. There his creative faculties are
brought into play. The camera could be of
but little use to teach the art of landscaping
on public grounds. It could not take in
enough to be of any particular service. I
have selected a few small properties to con-
Photo 139. vey the lessons on the main principles of

Photo 140.

the art, knowing that if people comprehend them, they need not have a "botched-up"
job forced upon them. To succeed in landscaping one must have a general knowledge of

FLORICULTURE.

Who is there that does not love a flower — some flower? Well, there are such, but,
thank fortune, they are but few. Imagine a world without music, birds and flowers !
We would want to emigrate, would we not? The author of this work has nothing more
indelibly fixed on the mind than "grandmother's flower garden." How he and his
brothers and sisters used to delight to visit this paradise around the thatched cottage.
What thrifty "ear-drops" (fuchsias)! How charming the roses! How fragrant the
wall-flowers, sweet-williams and stocks ! And how our little hearts bounded with joy
when grandma gave us each a sweet bouquet, kissed us and said, "Give my love to
mother and father; good-bye, come again." Who can begin to measure the elevating
and purifying effects of flowers? No wonder the Great Teacher gave the world the text,
"Consider the lilies, hoiv they grow.'1'1 The (almost) universal love of flowers is one of

the things which proves the world is growing better. Did you ever try to estimate the
amount of money annually spent in the United States for flowering plants and shrubs ?
Add to this the immense sale of cut flowers, and it certainly runs into the millions of
dollars. But what a lamentation all over the land ! "I can't grow the pansy," " I can't
succeed with the carnation," "I'd give anything if I could succeed with the rose," etc.
It is really sad when we think of the multitude of people who freely spend money to
beautify their homes, and then fail. If I can succeed in assisting such, certainly I shall
not have lived in vain.

You should read every word in the article on "Blight" (see pages 44 to 49 inclusive),
before you peruse these instructions. Remember, there is no such disease as "blight."
Nothing happens to the human being, animal or plant without a cause. The normal
condition of all living things is health. Plants will "take cold,'1'' "catch disease" or suffer
from wounds like the animal creation. There can be nothing more elevating to children
and youth than the study of plant life. Cold winds will blast the leaves of trees in late

Photo 142.

spring or early summer. The excessive heat of summer will wither them if they are not
supplied with moisture. The pastures dry up in July and August, your roses give out,
your carnations fail to do anything for you, potato vines and pear trees "blight,"' etc.
Now what is the trouble? Are all these things diseased, or are a part of them "resting?"
That is what I will try to make clear to you. The cause of all these happenings is the
same, namely : the destruction of the minute fibrous roots. The visible fibres were once
called "spongioles, " but the microscope reveals workers smaller still. They are won-
derfully susceptible to injury. I again suggest that you read the article on "Blight."
You will find there how the various causes operate against these little laborers.

You cannot succeed with the pansy in July and August, but they are not necessarily
diseased; they are resting. Read the article on the pansy.

Your carnations do not thrive in hot weather. They also are resting. The carna-
tion, as you know, is much like the common garden pink. Their nature is such that they
do best in a moist temperature, ranging from 50 to 70 degrees, hence they_do their prin-

cipal work' in May. The carnation will bear a little higher temperature, but, as you
know, they are not hardy.

The rose also, you are aware, does its best work the latter part of May and early
part of June. Then the "perpetuals, " as they are called, rest in the hot months of July
and August. If the "perpetual" rose has
proper treatment it will bloom again in
September.

THE HOME OF THE ROSE

or its natural climate is in England. There
is no more charming sight than the tree
rose. To produce a tree rose, a common
"Hewmack" or wild rose is taken, and into
this is budded any of the high-grade vari-
eties. It is almost impossible to describe
the beauty of the old Lord Raglan, Mare-
chal Neil, Gen. Jacqueminot and other
larger but more delicate tints of roses grow-
ing on veritable trees, a straight stock, with
the head formed some four or five feet from
the ground. But it seems that the eastern,
northern and middle states of America are
not favorable to the tree rose. They winter-kill.
However, if pains were taken, this might be averted.
You must avoid a wet, soggy place for the rose, but
they must have day. If you want a real, good,
healthy, permanent rose-bed, make it four feet deep.
If it be heavy clay, put in an underdrain to prevent
water from lodging there and destroying ihe feeders.
Fill up three feet of this with two-thirds of clay sods
and one-third of heavy cow manure or night-soil.

r

Photo 148,

(The best "Jack" roses I ever grew were from a bed
that had three loads of night-soil mixed with the sod. )
The top or last foot of soil may be from the garden,
and should have no "raze/" manure with it. Set your
plants in the early spring. Never prune in late fall.
Pruning should be performed just as the buds are
beginning to push, in spring. Cut out all weak wood
and dead branches and clip the tops of the remaining
ones. If you made a rose-bed in the form of a trench
and adopted the subterranean watering suggested on
page 54, you could start your hybrid perpetual s the
latter part of August and get them into bloom in Sep-
tember. To get the plants to bloom in September,
they should be pruned in August. In the eastern and
northern states, our hardiest roses are liable to suc-
cumb to the severity of winter. In photo 162 you
have presented two methods of wintering the rose.
To the right you see a mound drawn up around the

70

Photo 149.

base of the rose. To the left is an excellent
plan exemplified. The branches are tied
together and a common building tile is
slipped down over them. This tile is nearly
filled with sand or common earth, and a few
leaves tucked in on top. No frost will kill
the plants below this protection, and the
hybrids can be wintered in this way in
Northern Dakota, and in Central Ohio the
most tender tea roses will winter all right.
When your hybrids become large, protect them in this same way by putting nail kegs or
small barrels over them. But be sure to use the earth or sand. A large quantity of
leaves or straw will smother the plants. Syringe your plants every spring, once a week,
when the buds begin to push, with a solution of whale-oil soap, until the leaves are fully
expanded. This will keep off the slug and other pests. Let no weeds grow around the
rose. Keep it cultivated. The hybrids need no water if the bed be rightly made. Beds
for the teas should be made not less than two and one-half feet deep, and if the subter-
ranean method of watering be adopted, a profusion of bloom would be secured through
the whole summer. Don't try to force the hybrids in July and earl}' August. All plants
need rest. That is the time they take it. The rose will do wonders if it has good co-op-
eration. In 1876 we planted a yearling Solfratare (climbing) rose. The third year after,
a friend made an estimate of 3,000 buds on it at once. This was in a greenhouse, the
bed had four feet of soil, and under that was heavy clay, into which it rooted. The
front lawn is not a desirable place for a rose-bed, particularly the hybrids, as there is
nothing attractive about them only when in bloom. The rose must have sunlight, the
more the better. Even the tea rose will never be anything more than & partial success
as a pot plant in dwelling houses (see "Pot Plants"). The magnificent "Jacks,"
"Brides," American Beauties," etc., that you see on the market in the winter season,
are produced in "rose houses" specially constructed for that purpose.

The carnation has a comparatively small root. A good garden, with a rich soil,
about a foot deep, is the best place to grow them. They are not a success as a pot plant
in the summer season, but they do fairly well in the fall, winter and spring. Don't keep
around old plants. If you cannot root "slips," procure young plants from the green-
house every spring. A two-inch pot plant is large enough. Plant in the garden, pinch
back the top a few times to make it bushy. Cultivate as you would corn or potatoes.
Lift carefully in the latter end of August or the beginning of September, and place it in
a 6, 7 or 8 inch pot, according to size of plant. Shade it from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. for a
week. Use a jardiniere. The carnation thus treated will give satisfaction. When the
plant becomes exhausted, in spring, pitch it out and prepare others in the foregoing
manner. It is well to set

PLANTS FOR CUT FLOWERS

in the vegetable garden. The geranium,
feverfew, heliotrope, mignonette, sweet
alyssum, candytufts, verbenas, etc., do
better in the common garden soil than
anywhere else, provided that such soil be
"in good heart. " Put them in a fresh
place every year.

FLOWER-BEDS FOR LAWNS.

Many failures in the lawn flower-
bed are for the want of knowing the na-
ture of the plant. Before you make the
71

bed, determine what you are going to
plant in it. Are you going to grow for
leaf or lor flower?

Suppose you want a canna-bed, such
as is presented to you in photo 142, how
would you proceed? Well, that is what
you want to know. I don't know that
you are prepared to duplicate it, but here
is the formula: Rise at 3:303. m., dig
for two hours, wheeling away the sand,
gravel or clay, continuing every morning
until you have a hole eight feet in diam-
eter and three feet deep. Have a big
two-horse wagon-load of cow manure
hauled, and mix this in with good soil.
Tramp it down so that it will not settle

too much. Round it up eighteen inches higher than the surface. Prepare the caladium-
bed the same way. Cannas and caladiums are very succulent and will stand the hot
sun, but must be supplied with an abundance of water or the leaves will wither. This
reacts on the root, destroying the feeders. (See "Blight.")

The caladium is grown entirely for the leaf. (See the two plants in the old stumps
in photo 143.) Cannas, also, are grown mainly for the foliage. The new French vari-
eties have gorgeous flowers. The coleus, as you know, is cultivated entirely for the
richness of its foliage. This plant delights in a rich, light soil. The bed should not be
less than two feet deep, the more fertilizer the better. The flower of the coleus is incon-
spicuous, and should be pinched out. Remember, you are cultivating entirely for leaf.
Now suppose you plant a geranium in the bed prepared for the canna or coleus, you
would have the same result — a huge leaf, bigger, perhaps, than a common tea saucer, but
no flower ! When you find that your geranium has a large leaf and scarcely any flower,

you will know what's the trouble
— soil too rich.

For the heliotrope, sal via
and such plants, the flower-
bed should be two feet deep,
and the soil light and mod-
erately rich.

For tulips, hyacinths,
the gladiolus and lilies, the
bed should be two feet deep,
well-drained, and the soil
moderately light and rich.

In photo 149 you have
what was intended for a
floiver-bed, but no pains were
taken to prepare the soil. In
photo 1 50, the gravel was all
dug out and sods dumped
into the bottom, and good
soil placed on top. Which
is your choice?

The quality of your
plants and their bloom will
depend on the preparation
of the bed. Dame Nature has no favorites.

Photo 154.

Her laws are unalterable. She co-operates,
nd that is all. Then, if you want flowers, garden or field crops, be "up in the morning"

and do your part.

VINES.

In photo 143 you have a view of a robust,
rapid-growing vine ; it is one of the gourds, the
one known as " Hercules Club." The seed was
planted on May 5th. (It is a hard-shelled seed,
should have been planted four weeks before. ) This
photo was taken July i6th ; from this you can get
some idea of the rapidity of its growth. Photo 145
is the leaf and flower. Photo 144 is the same vine
on August igth. In ninety days from time of
planting, the vines crossed over the front steps,
making a growth of more than thirty feet in that
time. We do not get variety enough in vines.
There is too much planting of the old woodbines,

Photo 155.

Photo 157.

wistarias and such hardy plants for porch-shading. The hardy ones are grand, but it is
preferable to have them away from the woodwork of a building. If you substitute the
annuals, they can be removed after the first frost, and an abundance of light and air can
be admitted to the building. Photo 146 shows the south side of the same building. You
will notice the absence of all "stiffness" in the vines. The one that the lady is examin-
ing is the "variegated hop," a very attractive plant and a rampant grower. Against

Photo 161.

the house are growing the
modest "puff-ball" and
graceful cypress. This
latter is not cultivated as
extensively as it should
be. Photo 147 shows you
the delicate foliage and
one each of its waxy-
white and scarlet star-
shaped flowers. Running
vines on straight strings
is too "studied." At the
first window in photo 146
are a few morning-glories
run up a stout string,
and then allowed to ram-
ble off and climb up a
fish-pole that was stand-
ing there. They shade
the kitchen window suf-

Photo 159. ficiently, but do not shut

out all the sun. In this

way the foliage does not become dead inside. Photo

148 shows you the morning-glories taken in the kitchen, looking out of the window.
Look up your seed catalogues and see if you cannot select something that will break up
the "sameness" into which we have fallen in vine-planting. You are probably already

admiring the vig-
orof these luxuri-
antclimbers. How
do you think these
were produced ?
Now, don't be
shocked when I
tell you that it was
"night-soil" that
stimulated such
growth. There is
not a greater nui-
sance or abomina-
tion than the com-
mon privy-vault.
Beyond doubt, it
is a prolific pest-
breeder. Theztttt/7
should be aban-
doned, and a floor
or drawer substi-
tuted. This should
be cleaned regu-
larly twice a week.
Dry earth should
be used each day.
Contents should
be kept covered

in a trench, and used yearly in making flower-
beds and be placed under newly-set trees. Thus
one of the most offensive nuisances is converted
into profit and grandeur. The fine vines that
you have admired in these photos are growing
in borders dug out, two feet wide and two and
one-half feet deep. The night-soil and earth
were mixed in the bottom, making a compost
about eighteen inches deep. Good soil was
used on top. Having such a depth of earth,
there was scarcely any water applied until real
hot weather, and then but comparatively little.
To get vines, caladiums, cannas and all
rampant, vigorous-growing plants to do well,
throw out all the soil in the bed or border, and
mix in a new supply of compost every year.

HARDY VINES.

It is preferable to train the
hardy vines on trellises, brick
buildings, old trees, etc., and not
to have them on wooden structures.
In photo 151 you see a beautiful
arbor. This is the Virginia Creeper
or common American Ivy, some-
times called "woodbine." This
bower was made in 1881. Though
over twenty years old, it seems to
increase in beauty every year. The
leaf of that vine you will readily
recognize in the upper left-hand
corner of photo 152. The leaf in
the upper right-hand corner is the
variegated hop. The creamy yel-
low stripes of the leaf do not ap-
pear here, as yellow takes dark in a
photograph. The leaf in the cen-
ter of that photo is the ampelopsis veitchii, or common "Boston Ivy," the very best plant
ever grown for brick or stonework. See how it covers the brick, as shown on the corner
of the house, in photo 153. In the lower left-hand corner of photo 152 is that dangerous
little fellow, the poison ivy. The poison of this plant will not affect some people, while
others will be affected by its poison carried on the wind. The antidote for this poison is
a tea or wash made from the common "plantain," which you will see in the same photo-
graph.

THE PANSY.

Ah, modest, human-faced, wonderful, far-renowned pansy ! Where is the child, the
hurried woman, the busy man or the venerable patriarch that does not admire thee?
How all desire to have a good pansy-bed, and how very few succeed ! Yet the pansy is
one of the easiest and simplest plants to grow. The gorgeous pansies of to-day are
evoluted from the wee little "birdseyes" or "johnny-jump-ups" that grow wild in the
open fields in Europe. It is claimed that a young German lady commenced their im-
provement. See where we are to-day, and still improving ! What a lesson on possibilities!

70

In order to succeed with any plant, you must know the nature of that plant. You
should always ask, "Where is the home of this plant ?"A When you know the climate
from whence it came, then you have the key to success. Suppose they try to cultivate
the coleus out-of-doors in England ; failure is the result, not hot enough. In place of
the gorgeous coleus, the English gardener has been driven to substitute some of the
high-bred geraniums. The celebrated "Mrs. Pollock" was a marvel in England as a
decorative plant, but the same "Mrs. Pollock" geranium in the United States is a total
failure ; too hot. In England no bed-
ding-plant is more attractive than the
brilliant, dashy calceolaria, but the hot
sun of America is too much for it, and
we are deprived of the pleasure of this
plant in our lawns. In England the
charming tuberous-rooted begonias are
grown (for commercial purposes) in the
open field. In America they succeed
well only in partially shaded situations.
These are enough examples to impress
on you the importance of studying the
nature of each plant.

Now, what is the nature of the
pansy ? About the same as that of the
common violet. When do the violets
bloom ? In spring. You might call a
pansy a perpetual-blooming violet. It
is a late fall and early spring plant.
Who is there that does not know that,
under favorable conditions, one might
go out and pick pansy blossoms under
the snow ? Knowing the nature of your
plant, you have the key to success.
Seed should be sown (in the United
States) some time in August. Young

Photo 164.

plants should be set the last
week in September or early
part of October, in a bed
that has been prepared for
their permanent location.
Plants should be set about
eight or nine inches apart,
as shown in photo 157. Just
before hard freezing, they
should be put into winter
quarters, as shown in photo
158. This consists in putting
straw neatly between the
rows and drawing it up close
to the plants and tucking it
in so as to prevent the fre-
quentfreezing and lhau'ing;
otherwise, the changes will
lift the plant out of the
ground and kill it. A few

Pho

leaves will do the same service if
held in place by a little brush. Be
careful not to cover too thick, or
you will smother the plants. When
hard freezing is over in spring, re-
move the leaves or straw and cul-
tivate the soil. Never let a weed
grow among them.

But very few people know the
possibilities of the pansy. It has a
wonderful root! Had it not, it
could not accomplish what it does.
In photo 154 you have a specimen
of an average young plant. It has
just one flower and one bud, but
the clump of earth that you see is
all full of roots. You should make
the bed for the pansy not less than
eighteen inches deep. The first
six inches in the bottom may be

sod ; the upper portion should be one-third thoroughly rotted manure, mixed with light
soil. If the soil is not naturally light, make it so by mixing muck or leaf-mould and
some sand. Photo 155 gives you a view of a pansy in a state of rest. You will observe
the long, half-dead branches lying on the ground. One of them has been staked up for
inspection. If you look closely, you will see quite a number of "joints." At each joint
there has been a flower. There are twenty-one of them on this branch, and there were
twenty-seven branches. It would average twenty flowers to the branch : 27 X 2O = 54°
flowers on one plant, and this only one crop! At the crown of the plant you will notice
a new supply of young wood coming up. This photo (155) was one of a bed of one
hundred plants. At the same rate that this produced its first crop, the whole product
would be between fifty and sixty thousand flowers ! But they had done only about half
their work. The new growth of wood that your attention was called to commenced its
work in September, and is (at this writing) lying dormant under the snow. They will

do greater work when spring opens, as
they are already established on very
strong roots. About half the weak
branches should be removed ; that will
strengthen the remaining ones and give
proportionately large flowers. These
plants will have finished their work by
the middle of July, when they should
be dug out and the bed renewed with
additional compost, and something else
planted therein.

Photo 156 presents to you a platter
of November pansies, among which the
white ones are very conspicuous.

Don't try to force your pansies in
July and August; this is their season
of rest.

To secure large flowers, the pansies
should be cut every morning, leaving
on the vines the ones that developed
the previous day. It is well, occasion-

78

ally, to cut some of the weak branches with the flowers. Don't try to maintain a stock
of pansies from the same plants, after the first seeding. They have a strong tendency
to "breed back." In a few years they run into the commonest kinds. It will pay you
better to get the new, up-to-date, improved strains. They are kept up under the highest
state of cultivation and the most careful selection. Henderson, Dreer, Vick, Storrs &
Harrisson, Burpee and many other firms send out a high-grade class of seeds. If you
desire pansy plants, we would suggest that you write "The Columbian Pansy Farm,
Kent, Ohio." They expect to have from three to five million plants next September.

Don't set young plants too deep ; they would be apt to rot off. Don't put a pansy-
bed in the front lawn, unless you are going to remove them in July and fill in with
coleus or something else for summer display. Don't plant the pansy in shade or "par-
tial shade," as recommended by many seed catalogues. You cannot get strong, healthy
plants, nor the rich shadings of flowers, without sunlight. The error of the "partial
shade" recommendation arises from the attempt to get the plant to work in July and
August. The almost total failure of hundreds of thousands of people with the pansy
ought to be enough to lead them to study the nature of the plant and adapt themselves
to its requirements. Let us hope that all will profit by the mistakes of the past.

POT PLANTS.

There is no greater failure to be found than with " potted plants." This is all to be
traced to root failure. To understand how that is brought about, read from page 40 to
56. It is utterly impossible for you to grow a healthy plant unless the roots are kept in
what the florists call a " working condition."

In photo 159 you have a sickly geranium. It was grown in a 2j^ inch pot ; it is
eleven months old. You have seen dozens, possibly hundreds in similar condition.
Photo 1 60 presents to you a geranium nine weeks old. Compare the two. Well, you are
anxious to know the how and the why concerning such a marked contrast. It is easily
explained. When you put any plant into a flower-pot, and it begins to grow, the roots
strike out toward the sides, i. e., they go toward the heat by which the vessel is sur-
rounded. As soon as they reach the side they double back and are thrown up, down or
sideways. As long as there is moisture and the proper temperature all goes fairly well.
But I will suppose that the lady, after having attended the plants, turns her attention to
other duties, or, possibly, goes calling. The plants, we will presume, are in the window,
or, possibly, out on the flower-stand. The sun comes out real hot and strikes directly
on this particular flower-pot. What is the result ? Just this : the flower-pot becomes
heated up so intensely that you could not bear your hand on it, and every one of those
delicate little fibrous rootlets are destroyed ! What follows? Just this : one, two, three
or more of the lower leaves droop, turn yellow and drop off. Why? Because all the
pumps that had sent up the moisture are ruined ! You come along and exclaim : " Why,
dear me ! The plants are wilted." You hustle around and sprinkle them and thus save
them from total destruction. Do you know what such a shock to a plant signifies? It
means this : that you must wait, perhaps, from three to five weeks before the plant can
reconstruct the root force that you have allowed to be destroyed in probably not more
than fifteen minutes exposure. Repeat this two or three times and the season has gone
and you have had no good from your plant, and you tell Mrs. Jones and Mrs. Smith that
you " never have any luck with plants." Madam, you must discard all such ideas as
luck if you wish to succeed as a plant-grower. There is no luck that enters into it. The
luck that produced the healthy, vigorous young geranium in photo 160, consisted in
putting the flower-pot into a jardiniere, and thereby warding off the hot rays of the sun,
and preserved the roots cool and moist, about the same as they would be in the open
ground.

You can ruin any pot plant by exposing it to the rays of the hot sun, or even a sur-
rounding hot, dry air, such as you find in an ordinary dwelling room, or by a low tem-
perature, which would chill and destroy the feeders. Geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes,
79

begonias, carnations and roses fail almost entirely, when potted, from this source. Photo
161 gives you a view of a rubber plant, grown in about sixteen weeks, by Mrs. F. H. Clark,
of Cleveland, O. It has been kept in the jardiniere which you see by the side of the plant.
The millions of plants that have been destroyed from this source certainly ought to be
enough to lead amateurs to pause, think, and adapt themselves to conditions that will
result in success. The small hanging basket is a failure from the same cause as the
aforementioned pot plants. Plants in small vases amount to nothing for the same rea-
son. You can procure the finest results by sawing a common barrel in two and nailing
sticks on outside for ornamentation, and using this for a lawn vase. Two or three bush-
els of soil can be put into such a receptacle, and vines, coleus, geraniums, feverfews,
lantanas and such like will make the rankest kind of growth in them. Therefore, if you
are going to have a hanging basket or vase, be sure you get large ones ; for, having such
an abundance of earth, they retain the moisture and make a luxuriant growth.

The jardinieres of to-day are very handsome and, though they seem high-priced, by
all means procure them, even if you do with less plants. Small boxes or anything else
in which to plunge the flower-pot will answer the same purpose as the handsomer jardi-
niere. A neat window box, eight inches deep and one foot wide, with plants set in it and
spaces filled in with moss, will answer all the purposes of the jardiniere.

If you purchase a plant in a small pot, turn it upside down, tap the edge on some-
thing hard, and the ball of earth will come out of the pot. Examine rootlets ; if they
appear brown and dried, it indicates that it is getting pot-bound and should have been
shifted into a larger crock before. Shift at once into a four- or five-inch pot, in six or
eight weeks into a six-inch. Common pot plants should be shifted at least three times
in the growing season. The florists' rule is: "Never let a plant get pot-bound, but
maintain ' working roots,' " i. e., those that have a whitish look. When the roots begin
to turn brown, it indicates that they are being subjected to conditions that are unfavora-
ble ; that they have either been affected by too high or too low temperature, or that they
need more room.

The one lesson that the United States must learn is to take care of the roots of their
trees, shrubs and plants. All the troubles that are classed as " blight " in trees, dried-
up farm crops and withered flowering plants are to be traced to root failure. This is
one of the points that we have endeavored so much to impress on the reader of this
work. People must learn it and apply the remedy or continue to fail. Nature will not
turn aside to make amends for anyone's lack of knowledge or neglect. Remember,
then, the two points of danger, namely : You can weaken the plant with loo much water
or not enough. In pot culture, you guard against too much by providing a good drain-
age. This you can do by placing a few bits of stone, broken crock or rough gravel in
the bottom of the flower-pot and, as just stated, you prevent the burning of the roots
by shading the crock in the box or jardiniere. There is no established rule for watering
potted plants further than this, namely; if it be in the winter months and the plant is nearly
dormant, it may not need watering once a week ; if it be the summer months and the
plant is growing rapidly, it may require watering twice a day or more. Never let the
earth get soggy or parched ; keep nicely moistened. Your success with pot plants will
be measured not so much by what you know about them as by how much you watch them,
and thereby prevent root injury.

Worms and other insects that injure roots of potted plants can be destroyed by
tobacco water. Tobacco stems can be procured from cigarmakers, or cigars, smoking or
chewing tobacco might be soaked to a consistency of strong tea. Tobacco water is not
only destructive to vermin, but is a good fertilizer. Syringe the plants with tobacco
water to kill lice, green fly and such pests. If you cannot dislodge the green fly by
spraying, put plant into a dry goods box and cover with carpet or some other material.
Put in a tin pan with ashes in the bottom and live coals on top, on which you place
tobacco stems. Don't overdose at first, for the heliotrope and some other plants are
easily injured by tobacco smoke. Remember, it is much easier to keep the vermin off

the plant than it is to drive them off. Keep the plant healthy by caring for the roots
and a comparatively little syringing with tobacco water would make the foliage of such
a plant an undesirable habitation for Mr. and Mrs. Bug. To remove scales from the
ivy, orange tree or any other plant, make a wash of whale-oil soap and add a very little
carbolic acid. A small, flat paint brush is a convenient implement to apply it with. If
scales stick too tight, get a splinter of wood and gently scrape the branch, but do not
break through the bark. Syringe with water in about two hours after applying wash.

Good soil for pot plants is very essential. Those living in cities and having no gar-
dens would better get it from the florist. Those having a garden should keep a pile on
hand. Never waste the leaves of trees. Make a heap and rot them down. Leaf mould,
with common soil, makes the best of potting soil. Have a pile of rotted sod on hand.
To make a soil that will do for all pot plants, mix one-half rotten sod or good garden
soil with one-fourth well rotted manure and one-fourth decayed leaves. This will never
"bake." These are the main points that will lead to success in pot -plant culture ; the
little variations and details you will learn by observation and application.

THE GRAPE-VINE.

So much has been written concerning the grape that it seems everyone would know
how to cultivate it. Instead of this, it is blunder and fail in the majority of cases of
attempts to grow it. Some years ago, an acquaintance of mine requested me to fix up
his three vines so that they would bear. Examination revealed the fact that they had
been " butchered'1'' five years in succession. Some fellow, in order to make a dollar, had
posed as a " professor " of vineyards. He had followed the stupid custom of cutting all
the branches back to " two eyes." The vines were run on a trellis, some thirty feet in
length, and were very strong. This grape-destroyer had actually cut off and thrown
away about ninety-nine-hundredths of the fruit-buds ! The roots, being very vig-
orous, had forced the remaining fruit-buds into strong ivood to repair the damage of the
destroyer. This had been continued for five years, resulting in no fruit. We took the
vines from the trellis, spread them out, cut away all dead wood and wTeak branches and
preserved the robust canes over twenty feet in length, which were retied to the trellis,
spread out so that the light and air could play around them. The result was, six bushels
of grapes ! Grape-vines, by the hundreds of thousands, have been practically destroyed
by this " two-eye " folly. The error originated some thirty or more years ago by a sug-
gested plan to throw all the force of the vine into one branch and then run this on a
\v\re, fonfi fruit-spurs at every bud, and then keep the new wood at those joints cut back
to tivo eyes. That system works all right if people know how to do it. This found its
way into the newspapers and a rage commenced. " Two eyes," " two eyes," in every
newspaper. If nature had not asserted her power and persisted in living in spite of the
vine-butcher, there would not have been a grape-vine left with one eye.

As all who grow grapes for the market are supposed to have informed themselves on
the various systems of cultivating and training the grape, a few suggestions to the ama-
teur is all that is needed.

In pruning, cut out all old wood and strip off old bark. Cut out all weak branches
and preserve only the vigorous ones, and tie these up where they will be spread out to
light and air.

In Kugland the grape is grown almost entirely under glass (in "graperies "). Some
twenty years ago I became acquainted with an Englishman who had just come over the
"pond." He was a fairly well-trained gardener and hired out to a gentleman of con-
siderable means. He followed the English method of summer pruning of a grape fas-
tened against a brick wall on the south side of a building. He cut away the leaves
severely to admit light and air, and he succeeded ! He let in enough sun to heat the
bricks scalding hot ! The intense heat was reflected on the under part of the leaf and
scalded the epidermis. The outer edges of the leaves commenced to curl back and
shrivel. In a few weeks the wail went up, " The grapes are blasted and covered with

mildew." In the name of George Washington, what else could happen to them? Mr.
and Mrs. Mildew were abroad on atmospheric wings, hunting up territory where to
raise a prolific family.

Just after a rain-storm they came along and, in their way, said, " Thanks, Mr.
Englishman, for preparing this soil ; here is where we'll locate." In a few weeks their
name was " Billions ! " We were called upon for advice, which was given, and was sub-
stantially this : My friend, in England it was a necessity, where there is not enough sun
for the grape, to cut away a part of the foliage to admit light and air, but here, on the
south side of a brick building, where there is a torrid heat, you must perform no summer
pruning. You must leave on all the foliage to shade the fruit and prevent the sun from
heating the bricks and reflecting such heat on leaf and fruit, thereby destroying the
epidermis. The suggestions were followed, resulting, the following year, in perfect
fruit. When the calamity happened to the vines just mentioned, the effect on the foli-
age was substantially the same as that on the leaves of the pear trees alluded to on page
48. In both cases the power of the leaf to perform its functions was destroyed, one
from a temperature of about 20 degrees, the other above 120 degrees as it reflected from
the scalding bricks. In such occurrences the feeding rootlets are affected and, in a few
days, perish. The spores, then, lodge on this dead tissue, and the various diseases begin
to multiply. After such a shock no plant can reestablish itself the same season.

Volumes have been written concerning " black rot " and kindred diseases of the
grape, but the facts are, all those maladies have their origin from the same source, i. e.,
the destruction of the root. Remember that the root may perish in consequence of the
leaf having first been destroyed, or the root may drown, die of thirst, or otherwise lose
its life, and thereby destroy the leaf. It matters not which is attacked first, both have
to suffer. The injured leaf is appropriate soil for the fungi and the feeding-ground for
bugs. In the case of the vine on the south side of the brick building, it was destructive
to the crop to apply summer pruning ; but suppose a vine stands in some shady place
and has heavy foliage ; in this case a part of the young vines and large leaves must be
removed, or they commence decayingybr the want of air, and mildew at once sets in on
them. The viticulturist realizes that he must preserve a healthy foliage ; this cannot be
done without a sound root.

Here comes in the unfortunate part of the whole affair. Those who were engaged
in the introduction of grapes, forty or fifty years ago, took the greatest pains to prepare
the soil and to have it deep and well-drained and kept clear of weeds. Since that time
the spirit of money-making has inaugurated a pell-mell rush in producing numbers of
vines, and now we purchase vines that have been weakened through neglect or thought-
lessness and often grown amid rank and destructive weeds. The great desire among
nurserymen has been to find a grape that is mildew-proof. I speak reverently and
thoughtfully when I say that the Almighty himself could not produce such a specimen
without changing the taws He has established. The normal condition of everything is
health, and it is a crime to be sick. The mildew, black rot, bird's-eye rot, etc., with
which we are afflicted, is the penalty we are paying for the neglect of the roots, bad
drainage, shallow and poor soil and plants that have been iveakened by overwork. As we
improve the quality of a plant we reduce the hardiness of it. This is illustrated with the
coleus. The more richly-colored the leaf, the weaker the constitution of the plant.
This is generally true with cereals and fruits; hence, just in proportion as we have made
improvements in fruit, in that same ratio we should have kept up a high state of culti-
vation. But, alas! things have gone in just the opposite direction! The most inexcus-
able thoughtlessness and neglect have characterized our whole conduct in planting and
cultivation, or rather non-cultivation of vines and trees and, thereby, as before stated,
we have created the most prolific hot-beds of the diseases with which we now have to
battle.

How many grape-vines did you ever see that were pestered with the "rot" or mildew
when they were allowed to run wild? Not many; for in a wild state their plant sense

leads them to adjust themselves so that each branch may receive the necessary amount
of light and air; an example of this is given in photo 163. If you have a grape-vine
that does not do well and it stands near a tree for which you care but little, let the vine
take possession of the tree and you will have a great abundance of unblemished grapes,
although the bunches may not be quite as large as some grown for exhibition purposes.
The grape must have perfect drainage, and the soil should be prepared not less than
three feet deep, with bones, lime and ashes worked in the bottom.

The whole country is smarting under the punishment of our neglect and oversights.
There are two things that we must do to gain the ascendency over our insect and fun-
gous foes. We have been keeping both eyes on the top of the tree. We must now keep
only one (the left one) on the branch and the other on the root. Our scientists are, as a
rule, not only men of knowledge but of good sense, and I sincerely hope that our agri-
cultural experiment stations will use their utmost powers to educate the people to pro-
vide better root conditions for all plant life; in this way the plant will regain power to
help itself while we are attending to part second, namely:

KEEP ON SPRAYING.

Almost everyone interested in a tree or vine has informed himself on spraying pumps
and insecticides. With nursery stock diseased and plants, from which we obtain our
seeds, vitiated from poor soil and attacks of insects, it becomes a very grave question as
to how many real healthy plants we have to start in with. Therefore, it is the duty of
every citizen who has a tree or plant, to act as a volunteer in making war on these insect
pests. He should equip himself with a "spraying machine," if it be nothing but a hand
one. If a general raid were made on these foes with insecticides, holding them in check,
while we pull out and burn up half of the fruit trees and vines now in existence, and
commence planting nothing but healthy stock, being careful the soil is prepared right
and keep the ground well cultivated and perfectly free from weeds, inside of fifteen
years there would be an entirely new era in fruit-growing. This is no dream it is a
grand possibility that lies before the American people. The wise man can certainly see
this as plain as the noon-day sun, and the wiser and wisest of men will begin to hitch
their teams to the old, pest-breeding trees and vines, pull them out and burn them up,
prepare new fields for orchards and vineyards, take time to prepare the soil rightly, see
that the under draining is perfect, hunt up a nursery that will give a guarantee of per-
fectly healthy plants, form the tops in the right place, look after the pruning every sea-
son, see that trees are properly guarded, fertilize annually, etc., etc. — such a man will go
into the market with large, tempting, luscious fruits; and, last but not least, come home
with a pocket full of money.

There is a great lamentation throughout the land over the deterioration of our fruits,
but hitherto the people have not discovered the real sources. In the wounding of apple
and other fruit trees we have poisoned the sap with the dead tissue that passes into the
circulation and created harbors for insects and weakened the constitution of the plant by
this grave error. Then, having failed to underdrain and prepare the depth of soil that
should be for our trees and vines and, having failed, also, to cultivate and keep clear of
weeds, we have allowed these faithful friends of ours to wilt in the hot sun and thereby
destroy the leaf on which, in turn, the fungi take root and on which insects in untold
billions feed and thrive, we having created the conditions on which they exist.

Inspection of Nurseries.

In asserting that our scientists have fallen into error, the author of this work has no
intention of casting reflections upon gentlemen of such excellent ability as those who
have rendered so valuable service to our country by their tireless investigation and
research ; far from it. But the facts are herein set forth that pear blight, leaf blight, or
any other blight conies from the destruction of \hzfeeding roots.

In bulletin 72, page 199, issued by the agricultural experiment station, Wooster,
Ohio, in August, 1896, there is a photograph of peach trees affected by the " yellows,"
but they are growing in a raspberry patch ! Now, what can you expect from a peach
tree with such environments ? How in the name of good sense could a tree stand a
chance to procure moisture when raspberries (and probably grass and weeds) were pump-
ing it from the soil ? Among the sure signs of yellows are the well-known facts that the
winter buds and adventitious buds often become excited into growth in August or the
fall months. To some this seems mysterious ; there is no mystery about it. Remember,
if you have cut off the moisture from the roots the leaves must suffer. When the leaves
drop, the tremendous effort of nature is then asserted to maintain life itself. Life can-
not be continued long without foliage. The tree, then, calls on all its " reserves " to
carry it through the ordeal. The latent buds then spring to the rescue, form new lungs
for the tree, manufacture the cambium, etc. The mischief that has been done, however,
cannot be undone. Sooner or later the tree will perish. We have elsewhere set forth the
fact that the main battle is won over disease in the preparation of the soil. Before an
orchard is planted, two years should be taken in making the soil ready. A plenty of
manure, lime, ashes and sub-soiling are essential. Individuals setting a few trees can
prepare in short order by digging holes (see pages 41 and 54). This one fact must be
kept constantly before the mind, namely : it matters not what kind of manure you apply
to a plant, it derives no benefit from it, only as it is in a state of solution ; in plain
terms, only when the food is soaked out and mixed with water. Those wonderful, micro-
scopic workers that we have been pleading for so hard, absorb or literally drink lip all
plant food in a liquid form, just like those marvelous little glands or ducts in the stom-
ach and intestines of the animal or human being, which absorb all nutriment in a juicy
or liquid state. If the tree is planted in poor soil, and has nothing but water, it neces-
sarily will be frail.

Now, suppose you plant a small, young, healthy tree in the proper soil and, instead
of planting raspberries, or allowing grass and weeds to grow, every fall you apply a good
top dressing of manure and, in the spring, work in a little lime and ashes, and cultivate
to keep down weeds ; the result of such a course would be the maintenance of perfect
health, and I repeat the assertion, health defies disease. I do not pretend to know what
"peach -yellows" is and no one else seems to know. It is not necessary to know what
smallpox is; but this we do know, that a perfectly healthy person will-dot take it. Med-
ical authorities tell us that a healthy stomach will digest the germs of any disease, actu-
ally convert them into food! One man spends a lot of money in trying to exterminate
rats; another uses a \\\.\.\e. forethought and constructs his barn so that rats and mice can-
not get into it; every child knows which is the wiser man.

The fact that peach-yellows has been proven to be contagious by budding deceased
w7ood into healthy trees does not disprove what I assert, i. e. : a healthy plant defies dis-
ease. You may inoculate a person with the virus of any malignant disease and, per-
haps, produce death. But you have not proven that such a person had not the vital
force to repel such a disease had it not \>zzn forced into his system.

Life, everywhere, is a great battle and the victories are won by first attacking the
weak points. When once an entrance is gained, then the "strongholds" may be reduced.
We know of such a thing as "body lice," but such disgusting creatures do not exist on
healthy bodies, but are found on those that are impoverished and covered with effete

81

matter and other filth. The spores of fungi float in the air, and just as soon as the state
of a leaf is in a favorable condition they take root and begin to multiply.

The gentlemen at the head of our numerous experimental stations, together with
other scientists, in twenty years have done more investigating and brought to light more
facts concerning fungous diseases, scaled insects, bugs, etc. (and also given the remedies),
than the other nations have done in the whole history of the world. This is characteristic
of America. Whether it be in base ball, horse race, commercial activity or even war,
Uncle Sam "gets there!" But, hold on, uncle, just one minute. It won't hurt you to
take time enough to wipe the sweat from your brow, expand your chest and fill vour
lungs with //oxygen! Permit me to tell you, uncle, that amid your hurry-scurry, money-
making, microscopic-disease-hunting, remedy-finding labors, you have overlooked one
important fact, namely, that while you have labored conscientiously and faithfully in
examining leaves and branches, drawing and printing the shapes of formidable bugs and
pests of every description, you, at the same time, have been preparing the conditions on
which these dreaded diseases thrive, by neglecting the ROOTS oi the plant. The time
has come when America, in order to defeat the innumerable billions of insect pests,
must pause long enough to learn from British, French and German horticulturists and
orchardists that the first and all-important step to success in tree culture (in fact, in the
cultivation of all crops) lies in the preparation of the soil and good drainage.

But, alas! alas! the diseases are among us! Whence came they? Have they sprung
up from our individual neglect, or were they introduced from the nurseries in a diseased
condition? Perhaps from both sources. Our experimental stations have traced diseased
plants to the nurseries from which they came and have experimented on diseased trees
/// the nurseries. One thing we do know, i. e., that many nursery firms not only advo-
cate deep plowing, sub-soiling, etc., but practice it. But other questions arise, such as,
have they overworked their soil, failed to fertilize, etc., and, thereby, weakened their
stock? Are their buds and scions always taken from perfectly healthy trees ? I have
not had the opportunity to make personal examination, consequently cannot be charged
with intimating aught against any particular Jinn. But this I say with positiveness,
that every nursery in the United Slates should be kept under governmental inspection as
watchfully as the products of packing houses or other articles are kept under the
vigilance of the pure food commission. The fact that leaf blight (spotted leaves) have
been detected in nurseries would indicate light, sandy or poor soil. (See "Blight"). No
nursery should be permitted to send out stock unless it be under a guarantee of being
true to name, and absolutely sound in health. Nursery firms that have healthy stock
will say "Amen" to this proposition. If any be found that have stock vitiated by inoc-
ulation from "yellows" or any other constitutional disease, or infested with the San Jose
scale, mealy bug or any other contagious pest, thev should not grumble if they are
ordered by the government to dig up such pest-breeders and consign them to the flames.
Government is for the protection of the citizens and, if you want laws to thus protect
your interests, see that they are enacted.

The United States is waking up to the fact that fruit acts both as a. food and medi-
cine, but fruits from unhealthy trees, while the}- are not poison, are far from being desir-
able. What we need is a great abundance of fruit, from healthy trees, so that it will be
so cheap that all, the poor as well as rich, can have all that is needed. This would, in
part, destroy the appetite for strong drink.

When your order of young trees comes from any nursery, before planting treat them
with the following mixture, prescribed by the Ohio experiment station; we have found
this to be one of the best to destroy bark-lice or any other lurking pests:

Dissolve one quart of soft soap or one-fourth pound of hard soap in two quarts of
boiling water. Make a mixture by taking seven parts of this solution and one part of
crude carbolic acid. Apply with a scrub-brush, but be careful not to break off the buds
on the leader.

Talk With Boys and Girls.

YOUNG FRIENDS : Did you ever stop to think that twenty-five years from now
America will be just what you are? To put the matter in a declarative form, you who
will then be alive will be America as the world ivill read it. What will you be? If you
do not know let me tell you: You will be just what your thoughts have made you. What
books do you read? Every word you hear and every word you read is the picture of a
thought. Your mind is a camera, your eye is a lense, your brain is a sensitive plate
which receives the image of the object for which the word stands; hence, just whatever
shall be the nature of your reading matter and the company you keep, these will deter-
mine the thoughts that are kept before your mind; and your outward, visible self will be
only an expression of your real self, your thoughts. This is an age of fiction, and I
know of nothing particularly wrong in a fictitious work when read for the purpose of
relieving the mind from heavy, laborious tasks; but if you make fiction your food, you
will become & fictitious excuse for a representative of manhood or womanhood. It has
gotten so now that many young people (and some older ones) cannot read any facts
unless they are woven in with a "love story."

Take a look at photo 164. See how these two young people are absorbed in reading
a love affair! Nothing bad about it, but, mark you, they are not practical; they are not
observing the realities by which they are surrounded and that are overhanging them !
They don't seem to be conscious of the presence of that little rascal, the small brother,
who is ready with his fishing-pole to start the hornets from the nest hanging nearly over
them! How that vision of Utopian bliss will vanish and what a scattering there will be
when that nest is disturbed! Don't hug your best girl and read love stories under a hor-
net's-nest.

In photo 165 you have & practical boy; it is Paul H. Dave}-, seven years old. He and
his brother Ira have been taking care of one thousand young elm trees, started the first
year of the new century. These trees are to be presented to the citizens of Cleveland
(see pages 50 to 56, inclusive).

How many of you young people have made a study of plant life? Have you ever
thought that life, itself, is the greatest miracle known? Yet some avow that there is no
such thing as a miracle. Who can explain the life force of a blade of grass? No one.
The life of the human, the life of the animal and the life of the tree are all governed by
similar laws. We live at an epoch when there is a veritable hobby, bordering on a craze,
about reforming. There is a lack of real, sound thought in our social and religious
systems. A boy goes astray and plunges into the depths of vice. When he gets so far
that he detests himself and is loathsome to decent people, occasionally one will reform,
make a hero of himself by telling what a demon he has been, and good people lionize
him ; indeed, sometimes, almost make a demigod of him. We should encourage anyone
to do better, but to make heroes of those who have been cursing the world with their
vices is not salutary. The formation of character is what we should encourage, and in
that every boy and girl should strive to be perfect. In photos 32 and 33 you have trees that
have been rightly formed, while photo 87 shows you a specimen that is deformed and, in
96, is a tree that has been started on a process of reforming. It is better to reform than
to go on to destruction; but how deplorable even to think of the result of bad influences
that grow out of evil that has been committed! And think of a character tarnished with
vice and wounded with crime! Young people, think of this : a wrong that is done never
can be undone. What a distressing and deplorable sight are the wounds on the trees on
the first dozen pages of this work! How infinitely more hideous will be the wounds on
your moral character if you allow them to be placed there. How inexcusable the folly
of wasting a life in vice when there is no end to the good that might charm our lives and
fill us with joy unspeakable!

Nothing fills one with greater delight nor is more elevating than the study of nature.

He who studies a leaf or a flower is brought into communion with the Creator.
It is hoped that all young people will catch the spirit of this work and help to pro-
cure trees, plants and flowers that will be perfect in health and symmetrical in form, and
fruits and flowers that shall cheer and bless our homes; but don't forget to form your
own character. Next to the study of nature on this planet comes that of astronomy,
which, perhaps, is the most thrilling and awe-inspiring of any science taught. Truly,
"The heavens declare the glory of God and the firmament showeth forth His handiwork;
day unto day uttereth speech, and night unto night showeth knowledge."

However people can drift into a habit of reading silly trash is a mystery I never could
comprehend. Learn all we can concerning life on this globe and what we can from the
firmament above, and we have only gathered a few pebbles from the beach of an infinite
ocean of facts! Young people, in the name of America, the heaven-blessed land you so
much love, I pray you read no literature and form no companionships that will lead to a
wasted life and a deformed character.

One evening, last October, we took a notion to photograph the moon. We give you
the result in photo 167. It was a strange freak of the camera. The exposure was about
ninety seconds. How to account for two full moons, a half moon and a double eclipse
is too hard for the author of this work to explain. Photo 166 is the camera's record of
the rising sun. Oh! that glorious, life-giving, immutable orb! Almost infinite is his
power! You see the floating particle of mist, the tiny, dancing snow flakes; they fall,
they melt, they unite with others. " Little rills make wider streamlets, streamlets swell
the river's flow, onward, onward, as they go," and by the accumulation of the waters of
many rivers, the majestic Mississippi and the mighty Amazon are formed. Did vou ever
think of the millions of tons of water that are daily poured into the oceans from our
great rivers? Probably you have ; but have you thought of how this inconceivable
quantity of water was first lifted by the sun in the form of invisible particles of mois-
ture, diffused through the atmosphere, condensed as dew or rain-drops, taken up by the
roots of trees and plants of every kind and carried to the leaf, that marvelous laboratory
of nature, where the vitalizing oxygen is manufactured, without which no animal or
human being can live? If you have, you certainly must realize something of the import-
ance of producing and maintaining a healthy leaf. One of the objects of this work has
been to show that there cannot be a sound leaf without a healthy root.

God bless the noble souls who introduced Arbor Day. May every child learn the
mission of the tree and plant. To the rising generation we must look for better trees,
perfect fruits and sweeter and more gorgeous flowers.

In house-building do not make the mistake of constructing an air-tight house, and
shutting out the vivifying, electric rays of "Old Sol," your best friend, and then "dope"
yourself with "quack" medicine and ruin your stomach. Rise with the lark, study
vocal music from the songster, see him bask in morning sun-rays and behold, when he
sings, how every fibre of his being thrills with ecstatic joy!

The study of nature is purifying to the soul, and he who becomes acquainted
with creation sees the hand of the Creator; hence, the Nazarene uttered a grand, philo-
sophical truth when Ha said, "Blessed are the pure in hear', for they shall see God."

INDEX.

Wounded Trees

PAGES.

5-14

PAGES.

Landscaping 62—67

Nature's Trees

15-18

Floriculture 67-69

Crotched Trees

. . .18-21

" ' The Rose 69-71

Planting Too Large a Tree
Forming the Head Too Low. . .

....21-25

. . . .26—33

' ' Flower-Beds and Vines . 71-76
" The Pansy . 76-79

Pruning Trees

. . . . 34-40

" Pot Plants ... . 79-8i

Planting

. . . .40—43

Grape-Vines 81-83

Blight
Cleveland's Calamity

....43-49

• • • • 50-56

Government Inspection of Nur-
series 84, 85

Ornamental Work

. . . .57-61

Talk With Boys and Girls 86, 87

RAIN MACHINES.

Very few people have a correct idea of furnishing the proper quantity of water for
crops.

By May ist we expect to have the photographs ready of the rain machines, which
will supply the right amount of water wherever used. Every boy and girl should learn
to operate them. With the photographs of these machines goes the instructions for their
use.

With these will be given the photograph of the home of good old John Brown,
whose "soul goes marching on." Also, the photograph of the historic "Brady's Leap,"
and the place where the brave Indian fighter hid under the trunk of a fallen tree (in
what has now become the celebrated "Brady's lake") while the red-skins stood on the
trunk of the same tree and discussed as to his whereabouts. This will be prepared
especially for young people and will be put up in neat booklet form. Price, 10 cents.

In this booklet, also, will be published the best-known formulas to be used in
spraying trees, washes to destroy bugs, scales or bark-lice, etc. Also, you will be instructed
how to prevent potatoes from "running out." The book will be called "Davey's Rain-
Maker." It will be sent by mail, postage paid.

ADDRESS :

JOHN DAVEY,

KENT, OHIO.

"THE TREE DOCTOR"

Has been kept within the limits of ONE DOLLAR, so that those of moderate means
may be able to procure it. All the practical points on tree-planting, tree-surgery, land-
scaping and floriculture, by the aid of the camera, are given in less than one hundred
pages, and "peach-yellows," "pear-blight" and all those maladies commonly called
" blight " are traced to their source.

You probably have a friend who would be benefited by this work. You might bless
him by sending him a copy.

Always purchase of the agent if he is around. If not, send one dollar to JOHN
DAVEY, KENT, OHIO, and the " Tree Doctor" will be mailed to you, postage paid.

THE AUTHOR.

SERIOUS STATE OE THINGS

The result of the publication
of "The Tree Doctor" has been;
its author has been called into
various states to make an ex-
amination of trees. This has
developed the serious facts that
not more than 10 per cent of our
trees are sound! Their diseased
condition comes either from neg-
lect or brutal treatment. Trees
are dying before they have at-
tained to a third of their natural
age. Out of this condition has
grown up the industry of u TREE
SURGERY." Intelligent young
men have been drilled in this

work. The way that trees revive and respond to kind treatment is a

marvel to those who are not acquainted with the wonderful forces of tree

life.

Here is a case of genuine " Rock Maple." The huge wound came

from neglect.

The first photograph shows

the young ' ' Tree Doctors ' ' as

they are tracing the rot up in-

to the powerful arms and down

the trunk, clear into the roots.

The second shows the tree filled

with portland cement. It took

over four tons to fill the cavity.

The treatment adds, probably,

from one to t\vo hundred years

of the life of the tree.

Those desiring such work

done should address

JOHN DAVEY,

KENT, -> - OHIO.

A GRE^T WORK

IN WHICH ^LL SHOULD

The Tree Doctor was first published with a view of correcting "Tree
Troubles" in Cleveland, O. It has practically revolutionized tree culture
in that city. It is the photographic work that makes it affectual. Since
its appearance, the author of the work has been called in all directions to
inspect trees, and now makes the alarming declaration that not more than
ten per cent of trees are sound ! To help arouse the country to the serious-
ness of the situation, he has invested in a stereoptican lantern, and, by the
use of some 200 photographs, is enabled to let people " SEE" what is the
trouble. Nothing in the lecture field has proved so educational. It should
be presented as fast as possible all over this broad land. Those desiring the
lecture, should communicate with John Davey, Kent, O., in order to arrange
for dates, etc.

The following letter is a sample of the many favorable testimonials
given.

SHARON, PA., FEB. igth, 1904.
To Whom it may Concern :

At the request of the Civic Committee of the Sharon Board of Trade
Mr. John Davey, author of " The Tree Doctor" gave a stereoptican lecture
in the Presbyterian Church, Sharon, Pa. on the evening of January 21, 1904,
showing in an excellent manner on canvas the destructive way in which our
trees are being butchered and also the means for remending the trouble
and thereby preserving their life and beauty. Mi. Davey's lecture was
repeated the following evening for the special instruction of the school
children.

We most heartily commend Mr. Davey in his laudable effort to
awaken public sentiment for the better preservation of trees and shrubbery
and believe that by a more general dissemination of the information given
in his lecture and also contained in his book "The Tree Doctor" that pub-
lic spirited citizens everywhere will be glad to see that their trees have
better care in the future than they seem to have had in the past.

W. L. WA.LLIS, President.

W. B. HERRIOTT, Secretary.

S D

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

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