STORAGE-ITEfl
"lACMILLAN

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U.B.C. LIBRARY

Digitized by the Internet Archive

in 2010 with funding from

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EDITED BY

R. HOOPER PEARSON
MANAGING EDITOR
OF THE GARDENERS'
CHRONICLE

A LIST OF VOLUMES
IN THE SERIES IS
GIVEN ON THE NEXT
PAGE

Tresent-Day Qardening

List of Volumes in the Series.

1. SWEET PEAS. By Horace J. Wright, late Secre-

tary and Chairman of the National Sweet Pea Society.
With Chapter on "Sweet Peas for Exhibition" by Thos.
Stevenson.

2. PANSIES, VIOLAS, AND VIOLETS. By William

Cl'thbertson, J. p., and R. Hooper Pearson.

3. ROOT AND STEM VEGETABLES. By Alexander

Dean, V.M.H., Chairman of the National Vegetable Society.

4. DAFFODILS. By the Rev. J. Jacob, Secretary of

the Midland Daffodil Society, with Preface by the Rev. W.
WiLKs, M.A., Secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society.

5. ORCHIDS. By James O'Brien, V.M.H., Secretary

of the Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society.

6. CARNATIONS AND PINKS. By T. H. Cook, Head

Gardener to Queen Alexandra at Sandringham ; James
Douglas, V.M.H.; and J. F. M'Leod, Head Gardener to
Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.

7. RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. {The first

popular z'olume published on this subject.) By William
Watson, A.L,S., Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew,
with Preface by Sir Fred. W. Moore, M.A., A.L.S., V.M.H.

8. LILIES. By A. Grove, F.L.S., with Preface by

H. J. Elwes, f.R.S.

9. APPLES AND PEARS. By George Bunyard,

V.M.H., Chairman of Fruit and Vegetable Committee of Royal
Horticultural Society.

ID. ROSES. By H. R. Darlington, Vice-President of

National Rose Society. (Double volume.)

11. IRISES. By W. Rickatson Dykes, M.A., L.-^s-L.

With Preface by Professor I. Bavley Balfour, D.Sc,
F.R.S., ifc

12. ANNUALS, HARDY AND HALF-HARDY. By

C. H. Curtis, Hon. Sec. of the National Sweet Pea Society.

13. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. By Thomas Stevenson,

with chapters by C Harman Payne and Charles E. Shea.

14. TULIPS. By the Rev. J. Jacob. (The first volume

on Tulips in the English language.)

15. THE ROCK GARDEN. By Rkginald Farrer,

Author of "Among the Hills," "My Rock Garden," "In a
Yorkshire Garden,' <^c.

These will be followed by volumes on Dahlias, Climbers,
Trees and Shrubs, Paeonies, Primulas, Window Gar-
dens, Cucumbers, Melons, Bedding Plants, Hardy
Herbaceous Plants, Ferns, Tomatoes, Bulbous Plants,
Peaches and Nectarines, Vines, Stove and Greenhouse
Plants, &c.

PLATE I {^Frontispiece)

MRS. COLLIER

DR. HARDY

mips

PREFACE

My task is done. After the lapse of ever so many years,
another TuHp book^ will soon seek the suffrages of the garden
world.

Here and there the innate fire of an enthusiast's heart has
broken through the hard crust of conventional writing, for I
am intensely fond of the flower. Its barbaric magnificence,
no less than its superb refinement of colour and marking,
appeals to me.

I have lingered longer than perhaps I ought upon its
historical past, but to me the intellectual and the cultural
sides of its life are inseparable.

I have tried to tell in a readable manner what I know of
its requirements as a denizen of our Western gardens ; but
alas ! no one knows his limitations better than the writer
himself.

Still, with all its faults of commission and omission, I trust
there will be a sufficient residue of fact and suggestion re-
maining to make this effort of love of practical utility to those
who think highly of this glorious Eastern flower and wish to
grow it.

JOSEPH JACOB.

September, 191 2.

^ This book on the Tulip being the first published in English, Mr. Jacob has
had to contend with the usual difficulties of the pioneer. He has surmounted them,
and his efforts have been well seconded by Mr. Waltham, to whom we owe the
beautiful photographs. — Editor.

CONTENTS

CHAP.

I.

Introduction

.

PAGE
I

II.

Chronology and Bibliography

2

III.

The Tulip Mania

9

IV.

Problems ....

12

V.

Vocabulary

i6

VI.

Divisions of Tulips .

21

VII.

Early Single Tulips

23

VIII.

Early Double Tulips

28

IX.

Cottage Varieties .

31

X.

Darwins

39

XI.

Rembrandt Tulips .

46

XII.

Late Double Tulips

• 47

XIII.

Parrot Tulips .

48

XIV.

Species of Tulipa

50

XV.

The Florist Tulip .

54

XVI.

Culture under Glass

65

XVII.

Culture in the Open Air

71

XVIII.

Tulip Combinations .

86

XIX.

Tulips with other Plants

91

XX.

Propagation and New Varieties

96

XXI.

Diseases

103

XXII.

Selection of Varieties .

106

Index ....

113

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PLATE

I. Dr. Hardy and Mrs. Collier .

II. T. PR^STANS {Tubergen)

III. SuzoN AND Mr, Farncombe Sanders .

IV. Beauty of Bath and Carnation

V. Prince of Austria and Fred Moore

VI. Schoonoord

VII. Sir Harry and Solfatare .
VIIL Euterpe and Frans Hals .

Frontispiece

pa(;e
14

. 26

42

. 58

• 74
. 90

TULIPS

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

In the present volume my first object is to provide a practical
manual of tulip culture, suitable to the needs and inclina-
tions of present-day gardeners.

Hence, although there is a great deal of historical, literary,
and scientific interest centred round the tulip, I am com-
pelled by the limitations of the series in which this book is
to find a place, to do little more than point out their exist-
ence. One exception I must make. The summer madness
of the Dutch in the first half of the sixteenth century is such
an unique episode in the history of a flower, that I feel there
must be many who will desire to know some details about it.
To this subject I propose to devote the whole of a rather
long chapter. Another chapter must perforce be taken up
with a chronological table of the chief events in the history
of the flower since it first became known in Western Europe
in 1554 ; while, in a third and shorter one, I will state in
as concise a manner as possible some at least of those absorb-
ing problems which are, as it were, the advanced arithmetic
of the tulip student.

As the writing time of this brochure coincides with a
somewhat unexpected and phenomenal rise in the prices
of both Cottage and Darwin varieties, but especially of the
latter, 1 make no apology for devoting a larger space to their

A

2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

consideration than I might otherwise have thought desirable.
That they will prove to be the twentieth century tulips there
is not a shadow of doubt. Twenty-five years ago they were
practically non-existent ; to-day their importance is greater
than that of any other type, and neither the brilliance of the
mid-Asian importations nor the exquisite refinement of the
florist varieties can vie with them in popular estimation.

My plan for the second or practical part of the volume
is as follows. First, to define certain terms which are or
have been current coin among tulip connoisseurs ; then to
take each type of flower in turn, describe it, suggest the
purposes for which it will be found to be most useful, and
finally to give a list of the better varieties which are grouped
under that particular head. Then, secondly, 1 shall describe
the ditTerent ways in which tulips may be grown, and give
directions about their cultivation. Thirdly, propagation and
ailments will be discussed; and lastly, there will be lists of the
best varieties suitable for the different purposes of a house
and garden.

CHAPTER II

CHRONOLOGY AND BIBLIOGRAPHY

In this chapter I have set out some of the principal incidents
in the history of tulips commencing with the year 1554.

Vear.

1554. With the possible exceptions of such species as T. sylvestris
and T. celsiana, tulips were unknown in Mid and Western
Europe up to this date.

Augerius Gislenius Busbequius, ambassador of the
Emperor Ferdinand, noticed some tulips in a garden
between Adrianople and Constantinople.

1559. The Swiss botanist Gesner saw some tulips in flower in
Councillor John Henry Herwart's garden at Augsburg.

CHRONOLOGY & BIBLIOGRAPHY 3

Year.

1561. The first picture of a tulip of which we have any record was

pubUshed in Gesner's edition of TAe History of Plants
by Valerius Cordus.

1562. A merchant at Antwerp receives "a cargo" of bulbs from

Constantinople (Martyn's edition of Miller's Dictionary).

1 57 1. Introduction of tulips into Holland {History of Plants by
C. Clusius, 1601).

1582. A few years before this date tulips were introduced into
England (Hakluyt's Voyages).

1597. Publication of Gerard's Herbal. He says his "loving friend
Master James Garret " has been twenty years experiment-
ing to find out the number of varieties (of tulips); "all
which to describe particularlie, were to roule Sisiphus
stone or number the sandes."

161 1. Tulips first flowered in France in the garden of Fabri de
Peires, " conseiller de Parlement de Provence."

16 14. Publication of the Hortus Floridus by Crispinus Passeus the
younger, a celebrated engraver. In the full edition there
are many figures of striped (that is " broken ") tulips.

These must be some of the first illustrations of the
flowers that eventually came to be called *' Florist
tulips."

1629. Parkinson in his Paradisus enumerates about one hundred
and forty varieties, thereby showing that tulip culture had
gained a firm foothold in England.

1634-37. Period of the Tulip mania in Holland.

1637. The first edition of '' f Samenspraecken" (Anglice, Conversa-
tions) pubUshed at Haarlem by Adrian Roman. The
book purports to give a dialogue between two weavers,
Waermondt and Gaergoedt. It is from this publication
that we have got the greater part of our knowledge of how
tulip sales and speculations were carried on in the days of
the mania. The author is unknown.

1643. Second edition of f Samenspraecken, with numerous addi-
tions.

1654. Publication of Le Floriste Francois by de la Chesn^e Mon-
stereul. This is an exhaustive work in French dealing

PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Year.

entirely with the tuUp from a horticultural standpoint.
It is, I believe, the first horticultural monograph ever
published. The curious frontispiece of this very rare
work is reproduced on page 5. The author's estima-
tion of the flower may be gathered from the following
extract from the beginning of his first chapter : —

"Comma Ton voit qu'entre les Animaux I'Homme a
la domination ; entre les Astres le Soleil tient le premier
rang ; et entre les pierres precieuses le Diamant est le
plus estimable ; ainsi il est certain qu'entre les fleurs la
Tulipe emporte le prix, comme le sujet ou la nature influe
toutes ses beautes et I'instrument sur lequel elle fait voir
aux yeux du monde les plus beaux ornemens dont son
divin Autheur I'a enrichie."

1665. First double tulip noted.

1665. The celebrated English florist John Rea published his
Flora seu De Fiorum Cultura. One hundred and eighty-
four varieties of tulips are noted in his lists.

1690. Parrot tulips first noted.

1710. The Tat/er (No. 218, August 31, 1710) ridicules a supposed
tulip maniac of the day. It makes the owner of a tulip
bed, which was two yards wide and twenty in length,
say to a visitor, that he valued that bed of flowers
" more than he would the best two hundred acres of
land in England."

1734. A third edition of f Zamenspraecken published as a warning
against a hyacinth mania, of which there were symp-
toms.

1760. Traite des Tulipes first published at Avignon by le Pfere
d'Ardene. (2nd edition, 1765.) This and Le Floriste
Franfois are the two classical works of olden time. Much
valuable information can also be gained from the English
translations of Van Oosten {Dutch Gardener, ist edition,
1703) and Van Kampcn {Dutch Florist, ist edition, 1763).
The large space devoted to tulips in both these works
is very eloquent, but in the latter it is to be noted that
the tulip has to some extent given place to the hyacinth.

Cesl LAmour stui fit mt Culhut^
JIt PkoJfut enruJtit mts fleun
SD'un nomhrt tnfim de. ceuUura
L.une. trunc laulrc j'lus vtfue
'Prtnant It Pur JcJ Htmcntfi

J)*<f.^/-

_ir-frY --'- ^ '■- '■■ '^^"-J Asn.Uc»£^P'^^' '^^1

Fig. I.

PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Year.

1764. First edition of UEcok du jar dirtier fleuriste. The frontis-
piece of a bed of tulips with a temporary covering over it
is very interesting. It is not reproduced in later editions.

1776. I have an original cutting from some East Country paper,
dated Ipswich, 15th May 1776, in which a "Tulip Show"
is advertised for May the 21st. I give the whole in
extenso for the interesting sidelight it throws on these
times: — "The Tulip Shew will be at John Rycrafts'
in St. Clements' Parish on Monday the 21st instant;
when each Person who produces the two best Flowers
(if his own Property three months) shall be intitled to
two Pieces of Plate ; and the third to 5 Shillings : But
no person will be admitted to shew any Flower there
unless he is a Member of the Society. The Flowers to be at
John Rycrafts by Twelve o'clock ; Dinner at One ; where
the Company of Florists will be esteemed a Favour.

Peter Burroughs, President.
William Tayer \ c^ j «
John Thorndike/

Please remark the dinner. I fancy the custom has
been always kept up, for when I attended, two years ago,
the Northern Tulip Show at Middleton, near Manchester,
the dinner at the old inn just across the road was one
of those experiences in life which I shall never forget.
I believe, from the present year onwards, this Northern
show is to be discontinued. May I put in a plea for this
good old custom to be observed in its Southern home?

1792. A catalogue of James Maddock of Walworth issued in this
year contains 665 varieties, priced from 6d. to ;^6, 6s. per
bulb. This is now in the possession of Mr. Harman
Payne of Catford.

1794. James Hudson of Newcastle published by subscription his
Florist's Cofupanion. It is valuable because it gives " the
properties of a fine variegated late tulip." These very
nearly coincide with those which are esteemed at the
present day.

CHRONOLOGY & BIBLIOGRAPHY 7

Year

1822. New species of tulips found near Florence.
1827-^,2. Issue of Robert Sweet's F/oris^ Guide. The arrange-
ment of plates and letterpress is like that of the Botanical
Mamzine. Out of 200 florist flowers illustrated, 60 are
of tulips ; amongst these is the celebrated Polyphemus.
18^2 On July 26. William Clark of Croydon died. He was one of
the best known of all the great tulip men of the last century
He raised many good varieties, including Polyphemus and
Miss Fanny Kemble, "the loveliest of all tuhps."
18,2. In the autumn of this year Mr. D:vy, aged seventy-five, of
Chelsea, paid the executors of Mr. Clark one hundred
sovereigns for the stock of Miss Fanny Kemble.
i8^V Thomas Hogg of Paddington published his supplement to
his Practical Treatise on the Culture of Florists' Flowers (ist
edition, 1820). It contains 208 pages, of which more than
half relate to tulips. It is full of the most useful and
interesting information about the tuHps of this period.
1840-S5. Period of the tulip war between the Northern and
Southern fanciers. To quote from the Amateur Florisfs
Guide, published c. 1850 by John Slater, florist
Cheetham Hill, Manchester, a great authority and
writer "The Southern florists call a tulip fine when it
possesses a good cup and a good clear bottom, even
if the feathering and flaming be deficient ; whilst the
Northern florists consider, in addition to a good cup
and bottom, that the tulip ought to be regularly feathered

and flamed." , -i ^

1840-60. This was the era of local tulip shows. For detailed
information the reader must go to such periodicals as
The Midland Florist, Gossip of the Garden, and Ham-
son's Floricultural Cabinet.

1846. Tulipa Didieri first found in Savoy. This is one of the
so-called "neotulips," about whose origin so much un-
certainty prevails. Others are T. mauriana (1858) and
T. Marjolettii (1894).

1849. The Royal National Tulip Society was founded in this year.

1872. Tulipa Grcigii found in Turkestan.

8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Year.

1874. Revision of Tulipeae by J. G. Baker, Journal Linn. Soc.

of London, Vol. XIV (1874). Additions and further

revision, Gardeners' Chronicle^ New Series, Vol. XIX, 1883,

p. 628 flf.
1883-84. Neotulips occupy the attention of several European

botanists, and, amongst others, E. Levier writes upon

them in scientific periodicals. Consult the bibliography

in Solms-Laubach's Weizen und Tulpe.
1893. A remarkably early season. The Southern Show was held on

May 8th.
i88g. Darwin tulips introduced into commerce by E. H. Krelage

and Son of Haarlem.

1896. Hartland of Cork issued his Original Little Book of Lrish-

grown Tulips. This is a catalogue of late border single
self-coloured tulips, and " is the first of the sort ever
published.'' It also contains reprints of valuable articles
by John Slater of Manchester and J. Forbes of Stanley,
Yorkshire. To the late Peter Barr of London and
W. B. Hartland of Cork we owe the great majority of
our " Cottage tulips."

1897. The English Tulip and its History was issued by Barr &: Sons.^

This is the modem text-book of the florist cultivator.

1899. Weizen und Tulpe, by Von H. Grafen zu Solms-Laubach.
An exhaustive treatise on the origin of species and
garden tulips in Mid and Western Europe. It also
contains a good account of the Tulip mania, and has a
valuable bibliography.

1902-04. Many fine new species from Turkestan, Bokhara, Persia,
and other countries were introduced by C. G. van
Tubergen of Haarlem, — T. Fosteriana, T. ingens, T Tuber-
geniana, T. pmstans (Tubergen) amongst others.

19 10. Das Leben der Tulpe, by Edmund Doring, Sondershausen.
In this work the vegetative life-history of a tulip plant is
described in detail. Such questions as " droppers " (see
p. 98), and secondary bulbs are fully treated.

' It contains the lectures delivered at the great Tulip Conference of the Royal
National Tulip Society held at the Royal Botanic Society's Gardens on May 12, 1897.

THE TULIP MANIA 9

CHAPTER III

THE TULIP MANIA

It is not difficult to imagine the excitement that the advent
of such a flower as the tuHp must have caused when it was
first introduced from the East.

Naturally every garden-lover would wish to possess some
varieties of this brilliant flower, and it seems the most usual
thing in the world to read that the wealthy citizens of Holland
frequently sent to Constantinople for fresh supplies, and that
when the celebrated botanist Carolus Clusius settled down
at Leiden as Professor of Botany in 1593, he was soon after-
wards able to get extraordinary prices for his bulbs, thereby
incurring no little resentment among his fellow-townsmen.

The wish to possess some of these gorgeous novelties was
by no means confined to Holland. Rich men in Germany,
Flanders, and France were just as anxious to have them
as the Dutch themselves, and so prices were maintained.
A contemporary writer, one Nicolas Wassenaer, says that
in the year 1623 a variety called Semper Augustus, which had
red markings on a white ground, was sold for "thousands
of florins," and that two years later — that is in 1625 — three
thousand florins were offered for two bulbs, but that the
owner refused to part with them. Further evidence of the
wide popularity of the flower is furnished by the Hortus
Floridus, one of the earliest and best works of the celebrated
Utrecht engraver Crispin le jeune {Crisphtus Passceus). It
was published in 1614, and contains many illustrations of
the tulips that were at that time most prized. Before 1617
there were no fewer than six editions published, including
one in French and one in English. In addition to the
impetus which arose from the legitimate needs and rivalry of
the florists, there seems to have grown up in Paris a fashion

lo PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

for ladies of the higher classes to wear flowers, especially
tulips, in their low-cut dresses, so that the competition of the
wealthy beaux to obtain the rarest and most novel to present
to their lady friends drove prices still higher. The continual
demand for tulips both at home and abroad, and in con-
sequence the yearly increase in the values of many of the
best sorts, and the desire of every trader to possess some of
them and to get hold of the finest Breeders for the purpose
of raising new seedlings, seem to have given rise to the
idea that by means of this trade Holland might be turned
into a veritable Tom Tiddler's Ground, whence all Western
Europe would come to buy and to spend. However this
may be, it is a fact that in the year 1634 there began
one of the most extraordinary speculative manias which
history records, and which can only be compared to the
Mississippi Scheme (1719-1720) of France, the South Sea
Bubble (r. 1717), and the Railway Mania of England. At
first the trade was undoubtedly legitimate, but as time went
on it developed into a pure speculation, about which it may
be said, if one thing is more certain than another, that the
last thing that entered into a purchaser's head was the wish
to possess the bulbs he had theoretically bought. All classes
of the community, even sweeps and servant girls, joined in
the gamble. Much of the ordinary trade of the country
was given up, and the usual occupations of the citizens
were neglected — all, so that more time and money could
be given up to the new way of getting rich.

Thanks to an anonymous work, the ^' t' Samenspraecken
tusschen Waermondt ende Gaergoedt" (Conversations between
Waermondt and Gaergoedt) which was published at Haarlem
in 1637, we know a good deal about the way this gambling
business was transacted ; but I am told that if this book had
been written in a less technical and more polished style, we
should have known still more, and several obbcurc points

THE TULIP MANIA ii

in the procedure of buying and selling would have been
cleared up. Thanks also to Abr. Munting's Waare Oeffening-
der Planten &c. (Amsterdam, 1672), and latterly to the re-
searches of Sautyn-Kluyt (1866), and Solms-Laubach {Weizen
und Tulpe, 1899), we are able to glean much information
as to what happened.

CoUegiums or Clubs were instituted in a large number
of towns, such as Haarlem, Delft, Enkhuizen, Alkmaar,
Leiden, Utrecht, and Rotterdam. These usually met at dif-
ferent inns, and there were definite laws and regulations
as to how the business should be carried on. There
were two methods of sale, one " met de borden,"
which was a particular way of buying and selling by
means of two small slates or tablets, with an arbitrator
to settle the fair price, which had then to be accepted
or refused according to the inclination of the parties ;
the other was " in het ootje," which was a form of
auction in which the bids were written in a figure
shaped like the illustration. The thousands being p,p ^
written in the top semicircle, the hundreds in the
bottom one, and the unit under the bottom of the straight
line. In the circle was the amount to be paid the inn for the
wherewithal to supply the food and drinks that under both
conditions of sale were necessary adjuncts of the day's
transactions. It would be tedious to enter into more de-
tails, but one feature is so characteristic and peculiar that
it must not be omitted, as it gives a vivid idea of how all
idea of reality had been lost. Long before the end came in
the early part of 1637, a custom had grown up of selling
the bulbs by weight without any regard to the size of the
bulbs. For this purpose an azen (a small weight less than
a grain) was selected, and we have documentary evidence
of the prices paid per azen in the case of many of the best
known varieties — e.g. Admiral van der Eyck, 440 azen,

12 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

brought 1620, and Anvers, 52 azen, 510 florins, on February 5,
1637 — a few days before the crash took place. It is from
Munting that we glean most information about the last days of
the mania. It is not very clear what was the immediate cause
of the sudden fall. It has been suggested that connoisseurs
had become tired of their hobby, and were placing numbers
of actual bulbs on the market. Very likely this was the case,
but surely by this time a suspicion must have crossed the minds
of the more far-seeing of the speculators that such an artificial
trade could not go on for ever ; at any rate they now began
to make stipulations in case of certain eventualities. Con-
fidence was lost, and the inflated values dropped like a stone.
Delegates were appointed from various towns to meet at
Amsterdam to consult as to the best course to be pursued.
The law courts became crowded. Petitions were addressed
to the Governors of the States of Holland and West Fries-
land. At last, partly owing to a decree of the courts (April
1637) authorising the sellers to sell all tulips which the
buyer after due notice refused to accept, and making him
responsible for any difference of value ; and partly owing
to the reporting of a Commission on May 22, 1638, which
had been appointed to endeavour to bring about an agree-
ment between the parties which should be acceptable and
binding, the trade once more resumed its usual course and
the famous Tulip mania came to an end.

CHAPTER IV

PROBLEMS

I HOLD that there is an ascending scale in the enjoyment,
and may I not say the intellectual profit, that can be got out
of a flower. At the lowest point there is the delight of the

PLATE II
T. PR^STANS {Tubergen)

PROBLEMS 15

eye which is provided by the "ready-made" bloom; then
there is this and also that added something which comes
when we ourselves have done our little best to forward its
development ; but there is a higher plane still when, to the
delight and the satisfaction of accomplishment, there is the
unknown beyond to lure us on in a quest full of difficulty
and interest.

In few flowers is this potentiality greater than in the tulip.

For the first problem, there is that black darkness before
1554. What had been happening in Turkey and the East
before this ? It is almost certain the tulip must have been
cultivated and possibly " improved." But who knows ?

Then how to account for the sudden appearance of
tulips (the so-called neotulips) in Italy and Savoy in quite
recent times, and in places already thoroughly well known to
botanists and searched by them ? How came Tulipa Didieri
or T. mauriana to be growing in the neighbourhood of St.
Jean de Maurienne, or T. strangulata near Bologna, or T.
malcolens near Florence ?

Again, what is the origin of T. Gesneriana spathulata ? I
fancy only experiments in crossing can unfold the mystery,
but what are we to cross ?

Excepting Species, almost every tulip at some time or
another in its life " breaks " — that is, instead of being a " self,"
it becomes striped. A "florist" calls it rectified. To him
the break is of the greatest importance. A good break means
a flower fit for the show-table, a bad one a variety to be
thrown to the rubbish heap. Yet what does this breaking
mean ? and is there any device by which it can be controlled ?

T. sylvestris and T. Clusiana are common enough now ui
parts of Southern and Mid Europe. Was this always so ?
Did not they come to us from the East ? If so, by w-hat
route did they travel ?

Once more, what morphologically are those aggravating

i6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

things known as " droppers " ? (See p. 98.) Why should
young bulbs do this? Has the origin of those curious
washy-looking, pale-claret coloured flowers (thief tulips) that
so unexpectedly appear amongst our parrot tulips and others,
been satisfactorily explained ?

Why should all our parrot tulips be bizarres ? Can any
tulip become a parrot ?

Lastly about the mania : we know a great deal, but we
do not know quite all. The broad outlines are there, but
some shading has to be filled in. The details of the auction
sale, the constitution (if any) of the "collegiums," and the
precise nature of the tulips offered for sale all need further
elucidation. Speaking for myself, I am by no means certain
that it was the late flowerers that must be associated with
the sales of 1635.

Such are some of the problems connected with tulips
over and above those which the genus possesses in common
with all others with respect to cultivation. I think it will
be said that our flower — the " King of Flowers " of Slater
and the "Queen of Flowers" of Hogg — provides for its
devotees its fair share of difficult questions.

CHAPTER V

VOCABULARY

The necessity for technical terms seems to have arisen in
very early times. In Parkinson (1629) we have^ ''Fooles
coates " used to denote yellow and red-striped flowers; and
as they inclined to white or more red we find in his descrip-
tions "white Foolescoates " and "Crimson Fooles Coates."
In Le Floriste Francois {16^4) we get a whole series — Morillon,

* Cf. TAe T(U/er, August 31, 1710. The term Fool's coat is used in the article.

VOCABULARY 17

Morillony, Agate, Agatine, Marquetine, Marquetrine, and
Jasp^e, terms which described different forms of striping, or
intensity and brightness of colour, and which seem to have
been in use for a considerable time {Dutch Gardener, 1702),
until such terms as bizarre, violette, baguette primo, baguette
rigaut, bybloemen, and others, gradually superseded them
{Dutch Florist, 1763), Some of these are still in general use,
but for the most part they are now obsolete. Garden
tulips were originally divided into three divisions, namely,
praecoces, dubiae, and serotinae, or early, middle, and late
flowering varieties. The above technical terms or similar
ones, seem to have been applied indiscriminately to each
section (Rea's Flora sen Floruni Ctiltura, 1665).

In these days we have dropped the medios or middle
flowering division out of our lists, and the two great divisions
of tulips are called " Early Flowering " and " Late Flowering."
Of the latter type we have numerous subdivisions, e.g. Cot-
tage, Florist, Darwin, Parrot, &c. &c. We use, too, a certain
number of (comparatively speaking) new phrases and terms
in our garden talk and in our bulb lists. It is these sub-
divisions and terms together, with a few of the more important
obsolete ones, that I propiose to explain in the following
vocabulary : —

Baguette. — A French term in use to-day to denote tall, strong-
growing varieties — e.g. Darwins are " baguettes."

Base. — The bottom of the inside of a flower. It varies very much
in its colouring. In a true English florist tulip it must be
either pure white or pure yellow. This is no hard and fast rule
about other kinds. In T. t/iauria?ia, it is a clear golden-yellow;
in the Darwin tulip, Professor Rauwenhof, it is a sort of white
star tinged with blue ; and in T. linifolia it is almost black.

Beatn. — The broad band or ray of colour in the centre of each
petal of a striped florist tulip.

Bizarre. — A flower which has a yellow base. It may be either a

B

i8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

self {i.e. a breeder or mother tulip) or striped (that is broken or
rectified). The term is usually only employed for garden and
florist varieties.

Breeder. — Most garden tulips begin life as self-coloured flowers.
After a time the colouring matter gets broken up into stripes
and blotches. Before this change takes place a flower is
known as a Breeder or Mother tulip. Darwin tulips are
Breeders.

Broken. — When the colouring matter of a self has become split
up into stripes and blotches, that particular flower is called
" broken " or " rectified." There is no stated time for this
change to take place even in the same variety, nor is it at all
necessary that the particular form the colour takes shall be
always the same — e.g. we have Sir Joseph Paxton as a breeder,
a feathered bizarre, and a flamed bizarre. We designate these
variations thus : Sir Joseph Paxton feathered, Sir Joseph
Paxton flamed, and Sir Joseph Paxton breeder.

Bybicemen. — (Next flowers) originally so called as being next in
estimation to the baguettes {Dutch Florist, 1763). It is now
applied to flowers which have a white base and some shade
of purple markings. The celebrated Tulip "Miss Fanny
Kemble" was a bybloemen.

Cottage or May-flowering. — Varieties which have been found for
the most part in the old cottage gardens of the British Isles.
They were originally in all probability the casts-ofl" of the early
and mid Victorian florists — Breeders, that is, that were never
likely to '* break " well, or rectified flowers that did not come
up to the recognised standard. We owe most of them to the
labours of the late William Baylor Hartland of Cork and
Peter Barr of London. Typical examples are Striped Beauty,
Leghorn Bonnet, and John Ruskin.

Danvin. — A vigorous race of selfs distinguished by their strong
and tall stems (hence baguettes), their non-yellow bases, and
their shapely flowers. They were discovered in an old Con-
tinental garden, and were first introduced into commerce by the
celeorated firm of E. H. Krelage i\: Son of Haarlem in 18S9.
It is a misnomer to class such varieties as Jaune d'Oeuf, Clio,
Toison d'Or, &c., as Darwins.

VOCABULARY 19

Dragon. — An old name for Parrot Tulips. They were originally
called " Monstre " because "d'un forme extraordinaire" (Z^
Floriste Francois).

Dues. — Due van Thols, a small class of very early flowerers,
descended from T. suaveolens, which is a small, red flower with
a yellow edge. Parkinson writes of " Dukes."

Dutch. — The early flowering section, such as Prince of Austria
and Cottage Maid, are often spoken of as Dutch, because until
the last few years they were grown for sale almost exclusively
in Holland.

English. — The strict florist tulips with pure white and pure
yellow bases are called English because they have all been
raised in England. Some of the best known raisers of the past
are Holmes, Clark, Wood, Franklin, Goldham, Groom, and
Slater. The best known modern names are Hardy, Hall,
Barlow, Bentley, and Needham.

Feathered. — When a tulip becomes broken or rectified the colouring
takes on one of two variations — either it is confined to the edges
of the petals or else there is in addition a broad beam of colour
running up the middle of each petal. When the colour is con-
fined to the edges only, a flower is said to be feathered.

Fire. — A fungus disease, which is generally caused by hail bruising
the tender skin of the leaves or by the sun acting as a burning-
glass on drops of dew or on minute particles of dew. The first
signs are the little whitish spots, which soon spread, and part
of, or the whole leaf becomes dried up and papery ; beyond
weakening the bulb, this does not do very much harm unless
the attack is very bad.

Flamed. — When the colour runs up the middle of each petal and
branches out toward the edges, the tulip is said to be flamed.
The feathering at the edges is always present as well.

Flemish (Fr. Flamande). — A sturdy race of rectified tulips which
are not so finely marked as the English, and which have not
the same pure bases. There are no bizarres amongst them.
These are the modern florist tuHps of France.

Florist. — A refined race of broken tulips distinguished by pure
bases and correct markings. This is a definition from the
English point of view.

20 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Foul. — A tulip is foul when the white ground (or yellow ground)
is flushed with the colour of the markings. Frost at a certain
stage of the bud is one of the causes of this defect. The word
is used only in relation to florist tulips.

Italian (Florentine). — A generic name for all those species of
tulips which have been found within the last quarter of a
century or so in Central and Northern Italy. These are some
of the Neotulips of Levier.

Lale. — The Turkish word for the tulip.

Late Floivering. — A term which includes all kinds of tulips except
the early blooming varieties.

Marquetrine. — "This is a sort of Tulips that excels all others;
some of these are of four, five and sometimes more colours, and
are the most esteemed of any by the curious" (1703). Evi-
dently " the end " of the tulipists of two centuries ago was
to have a great number of shades of colour in their flowers.
Historically interesting.

May-flowering. — Synonymous with "Cottage" tulips.

Mother. — A term originally used, probably in Germany, to denote
"breeders.'*

Neotulips. — A collective name given to the new species of tulips
that have been discovered within the last century in Italy and
Savoy. Some of the best known are T. mauriana, T. Billietiana,
and T. Didieri.

Parisienne. — A term found in French bulb lists, e.g. Vilmorin's.
It denotes a small group of especially hardy, late tulips dis-
tinguished by their suitability for cutting. It is for this purpose
more especially that they are cultivated in the neighbourhood
of Paris.

Parrot. — Tulips with split and irregularly cut petals are called
Parrots. They have been known since 1665. All in the
catalogues have been bizarres until Messrs. Barr & Sons in-
cluded a variety called Sensation in their list for 1907. It was
found in Holland as a sport in a bed of a bybloemen breeder
called Reine d'Espagne.

Plated. — When the fc^athering on the edges of a petal is wide, and
the fine lines of colour have all run together, the flower is said
to be plated.

DIVISIONS OF TULIPS 21

Quarters.— \ tulip quarters when the petals of the fully open
flower go so far apart that daylight can be seen between them
at their bases.

Rtmbrandts.—k new race of rectified tulips derived from the
Darwins. Semele and Victor Hugo are two of the best
varieties of this type.

Roses. Rectified or broken tulips with pure white bases and some

shade of red markings on a white ground. The famous Semper
Augustus of the mania period was a " rose."

Savoy in lips. —i:\yQ collective name of the Species tulips found in
Savoy.

Species.— Va.nt\.\cs which are of natural or wild origin. T. Fos-
teriana, T. dasystemon, and T. sylvestris are examples. It is
used in contradistinction to garden forms such as Inglescombe
Pink and Le Reve.

Tulip.— V\ohdh\y derived from the Turkish for muslin, " Dulbend."
From this word Europeans have made turban and also tulip.
Busbequius probably did not understand his interpreter, who
may have explained the shape of the flower by referring to the
usual head-dress of the Turks. Hence the name of the head-
dress has been transferred to the tulip by Western Europeans.
Tulipes Pluriflores.—^ race of branching garden hybrids which has
been introduced within the last few years by Mons. G. Bony of
Clermont-Ferrand, France (see Gardeners' Chronicle, May 15,
1909, fig. 137). Mons. S. Mottet is the best known variety.
When this type becomes lower in price, the varieties will be
extremely valuable for clumps and beds.

CHAPTER VI
DIVISIONS OF TULIPS

As I am writing entirely from a gardening standpoint, I have
decided to omit all reference to botanical classification, and
to adopt those main popular divisions or groups which are

22 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

usually to be found in bulb catalogues. These are — i, Early
Flowering Singles ; 2, Early Flowering Doubles ; 3, Cottage
or May-Flowering ; 4, Late Flowering Doubles ; 5, Parrots ;
6, Darwins ; 7, Rembrandts ; 8, Florist ; and 9, Species.

In the following nine chapters, the different types are
dealt with one by one. First, their general characteristics
are described, and where necessary their history is touched
upon ; then, secondly, the purposes for which they are most
suitable are pointed out ; and lastly, a selection of varieties
is given with brief descriptions. With the exception of the
Parrots and the Rembrandts, there is an example of each
group in the coloured illustrations incorporated in this
volume. Thus Fred Moore and Prince of Austria (Plate V.)
are representative of the Early Singles; Sir Harry (named by
permission of Sir Harry Veitch and Messrs. M. van Waveren
and Sons of Hillegom, the introducers), Solfatare (Plate VII.),
Beauty of Bath and Carnation (Plate IV.), of the Cottage ; Dr.
Hardy and Mrs. Collier {Frontispiece), of the Florist ; Euterpe
and Frans Hals (Plate VIII.), Suzon and Mr. Farncombe
Sanders (Plate III.), of the Darwins; Praestans (Tubergen)
(Plate II.), of the Species; and Schoonoord (Plate VI.), of the
Early and Late Flowering Doubles. I would like to have had
an illustration of a " Parrot," but Mr. Waltham informed me
that owing to the length of time necessary for the petals to
remain without the least movement, it was impossible to get
a good picture. Dr. Hardy gives one a rough idea of what
a Rembrandt is like, but in this new class the markings are
nothing like so refined and regular, and as a rule the flowers
are of a longer shape. The natural species include every
shape and size of bloom — some have one flower only on a
stem, some, as T. priBstans (Tubergen) and T. dasystcmon, have
invariably two or three; T. Lownei\s small, while T. Fosteriana
is large, and so on. The illustration, then, of T. pncstans
(Tubergen) must not be taken as characteristic of the whole

EARLY SINGLE TULIPS 23

group — no one flower could be. It is simply an example of
one of the best and most satisfactory to grow in British
gardens.

In selecting the varieties in the following lists I have in
every case tried to cover as wide a range of colour as possible,
but I am quite aware that in certain cases my own prefer-
ences have so far crept in as to make me discard some that
others would have included, and vice versa. I make no
apology for this ; as otherwise I should not know on what
grounds to base my choice.

CHAPTER VII

EARLY SINGLE TULIPS

In the early tulips there are two distinct types, the " Due "
and the ordinary. The former have smaller flowers than the
others, and are earlier to bloom. In all probability they are
derived from the natural species, T. suavcolens {Bot. Mag.,
No. 839), which they much resemble. But the derivation is
unknown, and many writers say they come from the T. Gesneri-
ana ; yet even if this is correct it does not take us any nearer,
for there seems to be very little doubt that Gesncriana itself is
a garden hybrid.

Until the introduction of the Darwins the early singles
and doubles were the only kinds that one ever thought of
growing in pots ; and they are still the best tulips for this
culture. They have always been one of the great stand-bys
for early spring bedding, as they are to-day. With special
treatment they can be got into bloom very early in the year,
and the Due van Thols by Christmas.

24 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

LIST OF FIFTY OF THE BEST VARIETIES

D, in front of name, means dwarf; INI, medium height; and T, tall.

Very Early

Due van TJiol, scarlet, small, very early, bright red.
Due van Thol, white, small, very early, pure white.
Due van Thol, yellow, small, very early, yellow.

Orange Shades

T De Wet, a new tall orange-coloured tulip.
T Fred Moore, deep orange, edged yellow.
M Golden Lion of Hillegoni, orange, flushed yellow.
T Prince of Austria, a grand orange-red, one of the best of
all tulips.

Pink and Rose Shades

T Alice Roosevelt, deep pink, edged blush, lovely colour.

D Cottage Maid, rosy and white.

T Flamingo, large, crinkled white, edged rose, very distinct.

M Le Matelas, deep rose, edged pale blush.

M Pink Beauty, long flower, vivid rose-pink with white

flame.
M Queen of the Netherlands, pale rose-pink and white.
D Rose luisante, deep rich rose, edged white.
M Van Goyen, pale pink, edged white, lovely pale foliage.

Red and Cerise Shades

M Artis, deep scarlet, yellow base.

M Brilliant Star, new, an early variety, brilliant scarlet.
M Coulcur Cardinal, rich deep crimson, with deeper llame
on exterior ; very late.

PLATE III

SUZON

MR. FARNCOMBE SANDERS

EARLY SINGLE TULIPS 27

T Dusart, dark red, splendid bedder, never fades.

D Fire Flame, dark rose-red, late.

T Grace Darling, red flushed orange, large.

M Jenny, lovely rose colour, very sweet, excellent for pots.

M Maes, large, deep red.

M Proserpine, rose-crimson, early.

T Sir Thomas Lipton, deep scarlet.

T Stanley, bright rich rose,

D Vermilion Brilliant, grand scarlet, good in pots.

Red and Yellow

T Duchess of Parma, orange-red, bordered orange-yellow.
T Hector, pale reddish-yellow, edged orange.
T Keiserskroon, red, edged yellow.

Striped (Broken)

D Admiral Reinier, cherry-red and white.

D Golden Bride of Haarlem, scarlet, flamed yellow.

D Spaendonk, lilac, rose, and cream.

Variegated Leaves

D Yellow Prince, yellow leaves variegated gold.
D Silver Standard, rose and white flowers ; foliage striped
with pale gold.

Various

M Cerise gris-de-lin, bluey-cerise, edged cream.

M La Remarqtiable, purple-red, edged flesh colour, very

distinct.
M Proseipinc, cerise.

28 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Violet Shades

D President Lincoln {Queen of Violets), pale violet.

M Van der Neer, rosy-purple, earlier than VVouverman.

M IVouver/fian, rich reddish-purple.

White Shades
T Alda regalis, white, with orange and carmine bits of

colour here and there.
T Brunhilde, white, flamed yellow, very distinct.
M Lady Boreel {White J cost van Vondel), long, pure white,

extra.
T Princess Helene, lovely pure rich white, good in pots.
T White Pottebakker, pure white.

Yellow Shades

M Golden Queen, very large, rich yellow.

M Mon Tre'sor, deep yellow, most regular for bedding

D Privirose Queen {Herman ScJdcgel), primrose-yellow.

T Prince de Ligny, pointed flower, yellow.

D Yellow Prince, yellow, often with some red tints.

CHAPTER VIII

EARLY DOUBLE TULIPS

As long since as 1665, double tulips were known and figured
in flower books. But they never seem to have been very
popular, although several are figured in J. W. Weinmann's
Phytanthoyaiconographia in 1745. In 1763 the English trans-
lation of the Dutch Florist, written by the celebrated firm of
Nicholas van Kampen & Son of Haarlem appeared, and they

'

EARLY DOUBLE TULIPS 29

mention that only two varieties are listed in their catalogue,
La Couronne imperiale and Le Mariage de ma Fille. This
notice is also of importance because it suggests that the earliest
doubles were all late bloomers. "When the spring flowers
(tulips) are gone off, another beauty succeeds to them ; the
double tulips begin to open." I have an old catalogue of
a later date (eighteenth century) of a " Gerritz, Fleuriste, a
Amsterdam et Harlem," in which about seventy-five sorts are
mentioned, including the two named above. Perhaps this is
to be accounted for by the rage for double flowers which
characterised the flower world about 1760. A pamphlet was
published in 1758 on A Method of producing Double Flowers
from. Single^ by J. Hill, and it so happened the tulip was the
one selected because "the course of nature may be traced
in it easily." Alkemade of Nordwijk was one of the most
noted raisers of double tulips, and many of the varieties, such
as La Grandesse, that we now have in our lists, were raised
by him. I feel certain too that doubling may come from
either culture or some innate tendency in the bulb. Only
this spring (19 12) I found several of a striped bybloemen
"Union Jack" had become semi-double.

At the present double tulips do not seem to be much
appreciated, judging from the little prominence given to
them in a modern dealer's list ; taking a well-known list
issued from Birmingham in 191 1, I find eighty singles to
thirteen doubles. To me the value of the double varieties
is their suitability for pot plants. There is magnificence
about them which appeals to my love of a mass of glowing
colour. For bedding they are also very striking, but, for one
year when they come to perfection, there are three or four
when the weather is not sufficiently kind for them, and they
then present a most miserable appearance. In more favoured
parts of England than the Midlands, I dare say they succeed
satisfactorily. One of my very great favourites is Schoonoord

30 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

(The Beautiful North), illustrated in Plate VI. Mr. J. T.
Bennett-Poe grew some "under glass" (blooming about
March 25) this spring, and he thus spoke of it : "I have never
seen anything at all like it. 1 should not like to be without
it as long as I grow bulbs." To me doubles are the least in-
teresting of all tulips, but there are exceptions, as, for example,
Schoonoord and Safrano. In the following list I have con-
fined myself to those varieties of which I have personal
knowledge : —

Orange and Yellow

T Couronne d Or, oranf;e-yellow.

T Safrano {Brimstone), warm pinky-yellov/, a lovely colour.

M Toreador, reddish-brown and orange.

T Van der Hoef, pure yellow.

Pink and Rose

M Anna Roosen, deep rose and white, good forcer.

T La Grandesse, deep rose and white.

M Lord Beaconsfield, dark rose.

M Murillo, white and rosy-pink.

M Couronne des Roses, splendid deep rose and white, good

in pots.
M Parmesiano, compact bloom, rose and white, early

variety.
M Premier Gladstone, bright rose-red.
M Salvator Rosa, semi-double, deep pink and blush.

Red

M Cochineal, brilliant crimson.

M Don Carlos, one of the best reds (new).

T Imperator Rubrorum^ red.

M Luminosa, brilliant red, semi-double.

T Vuurbaakf orange-scarlet.

COTTAGE VARIETIES 31

Red and Yellow
D Tournesol, red and yellow.

Violet

M Lac van Haarlem, lilac-violet.
T Turban Violet, violet.

White

T La Candeur, white, outside petals at first green.

T Rose Biatiche, pure white.

T Schoonoord, like a white peony. Very beautiful.

CHAPTER IX

COTTAGE VARIETIES

Certain things are exceedingly difficult to define. A Cottage
tulip is one of them. The varieties vary so much in colour,
shape, size and marking that, beyond saying they are the
rejected of the florists, I can think of no formula of any
respectable length to embrace them all. Thus it is necessary
to get a clear idea into our heads of what exactly a florist
tulip is, before we can define with exactitude a " Cottage "
flower. This definition, or rather an explanation of this, will
be found under the heading of " The Florist Tulip " (p. 54),
In a sense, both Darwins and Rembrandts are Cottage
varieties ; or to put it in another way, two more or less well-
defined groups — one of strong and tall-growing " bybs " and
roses, with for the most part impure bases, and the other of
the same tulips in a rectified state — have been singled out for
special names, and there is no valid reason why others should
not be formed. To a small extent, and locally, we have them
now in the " Tulipes Parisiennes " in the list of Vilmorin of

32 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Paris, and in the "Old Dutch" and "Breeder" tulips of De
Graaff of Leiden.

This section began to meet with appreciation somewhere in
the eighties, and it owes its inception and gathering together
to the late Wm. Baylor Hartland of Cork and Peter BaiT
of London. These pioneers ransacked the gardens of the
British Isles for old-fashioned varieties, and their success
has largely made this section what it is. In 1896 Mr.
Hartland exhibited a large collection of his varieties at a
show at Cork on April 28 and 29, and in the autumn of
the same year published, under the title of Original Little
Book of Irish Grown Tulips, a unique list of varieties with
descriptions, and containing also extracts and original
articles of much historical value. It is one of the brochures
quoted in Solms-Laubach's work on the Tulip.

But I must somewhere get in a growl about nomenclature.
It is positively bewildering, and the aliases that some flowers
have to support would do credit to a hardened criminal.
Columbus, P'rench Crown, and Gala Beauty are all the same
thing ; so too are Hobbema, Le Reve, Sarah Bernhardt, and
American Lac. Somehow naming has always been a bugbear
among tulips, partly owing to their peculiarity of changing
their colouring, and from being a self passing into stripes and
feathers ; partly owing to the wish to tickle the public taste
with a make-believe novelty, and partly because of the lack of
knowledge on the part of an introducer who thinks he has
picked up something new when all the time it is nothing
of the sort. It would not be taking enough perhaps for the
popular ear to have called Scotia, Caledonia fliamed, or Silver
Queen, Isabella rectified, like the florists speak of Sir Joseph
Paxton flamed and feathered. But, all the same, it would
have tended to prevent confusion.

Why should an old variety like Mrs. Potter Palmer (Darwin)
be rechristencd " Fashion " (there being already a Cottage

COTTAGE VARIETIES 33

" Fashion ") or D. T. Fish ? Or why should Yolande become
Duchess of Westminster ?

Cottage tuHps do not lend themselves so well as the
Darwins to cultivation in pots. Some have not stiff enough
stems, and in many varieties the flowers are sure to " spread-
eagle " or, as it is more technically called, " Quarter." Yet a
few do quite well ; e.g. the bizarre, Darwin-like varieties such
as Jaune d'Oeuf and Clio (Bronze Queen) ; and such flowers as
Inglescombe Yellow, Isabella, and Golden Crown. Their real
place is out of doors, either planted in clumps in herbaceous
borders, or in beds by themselves. They have one advantage
over Darwins, inasmuch as there are many dwarf-growing
varieties, such as Gloria Mundi, Glare of the Garden, Pompa-
dour, and Le Reve, which come in for positions where taller
ones would be out of keeping, or for wind-swept places where
higher-growing sorts would be broken off. If Elegans is
reckoned as belonging to this section, it ought to be mentioned
as being good for planting in grass.

In introducing my selection, I ought to say that it must
not be supposed that all the varieties now enumerated under
the head of "Cottage" have been found in British gardens —
some have been traced to France, an increasing number to
Holland, and one or two possibly to America.

I append the names of about sixty good varieties ;
probably my penchant for browns and stripes has led me
to put more varieties under these headings than many would
have done, but this I cannot help.

ART SHADES

Under this head are collected a number of indescribable
shades — in most cases the colours blend imperceptibly one
into the other.

Beauty of Bath (tall), soft, pale yellow passing to a pinky-

34 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

lavender, deepening in shade as it gets to the centre of the
petal, a large, long-shaped bloom.

Fairy Queen (tall), has goblet-shaped flowers of a rosy-
heliotrope, margined an amber-yellow.

Havtvier Hales (medium height), this long-shaped flower
is one of the largest Cottage tulips ; colour mahogany-brown,
edged orange.

John Ruskin (tall) has a large egg-shaped bloom of
apricot, rose and mauve shading, with a pale yellow edge to
the petals.

Kingscourt (Cardinal Manning), (tall), dark rosy-violet
flower, flushed with rose-brown.

The Fawn (tall), a large, pale flower with rosy fawn-
coloured flames on a soft-flesh ground.

BRANCHING Tm^lVS {T. Fluriflores)

Mofis. S. Mottet. — The first of a new race of hybrid tulips
raised by Mons. G. Bony of Clermont-Ferrand in France.
The original of the strain was found in an old French garden.
Each plant has from three to six large egg-shaped, white
flowers, which flush with age similar to Picotee or Golden
Crown. They require a rich soil. I think they will prove
very useful for bedding in masses. The varied heights of the
blooms have a distinctly good effect. This variety is a tall
grower, and is quite robust and hardy.

BROWN AND PURPLE-BROWN

Clio (Bronze Queen), a tall Darwin-shaped bloom, just
the colour of a well-baked biscuit.

Corydon (tall), yellow, shaded with heliotrope.

Golden Bronze (Toison d'Or), (medium height) ; a rich
golden-brown flower, with an old-gold base.

COTTAGE VARIETIES 35

Goudvink (tall). The counterpart of Clio in a rich
tortoiseshell-brown, a grand plant.

Jaune d Oeuf (tall), a browny-yellow flower, petals edged
with yellow.

Louis XIV (very tall and large), a deep rich purple,
edged with golden-brown. A tulip of exceptional magnifi-
cence and stately bearing.

Lucifer (tall), a large reddish-orange flower of Darwin
shape — perhaps hardly a "brown."

Old Times (medium height), rich mahogany, shaded
and edged with buff. Found by myself in an old garden
at Hanmer in 1905.

MAUVE AND PINKY-MAUVE

Inglesco7nbe Pink (tall), an indescribable medley of shades
of rose, lavender, and yellow.

La Joyeuse (medium height), an exquisite, pinky-helio-
trope flower.

La Parisienne (tall), a silvery-pink Mrs. Moon, very
graceful.

Le Reve (dwarf), salmony-pink flushed with lavender.
Really a mid-season fiowerer coming after the earlies and
before the Darwin and Cottage tulips ; a wonderful laster.

Salomon (tall), one of the most exquisite pale rosy-mauves.
Created a great sensation at the Tulip Show in London in
1912.

Sir Harry (medium height), the breeder form of Striped
Beauty. Selected by Messrs. van Waveren & Sons of
Hillegom, and named after Sir Harry Veitch. A large,
lavender-pink flower, very distinct, and always singled out
in my garden for admiration.

36 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

ORANGE SHADES

Orange King (medium height), a splendid red-orange
flower of much substance ; ideal under electric light ; good-
sized flower.

Royal Visit (medium height), an apricot-orange flower,
edged and shaded old gold ; an exquisite bloom.

The President (medium height), almost a deep orange
self, a long, pointed flower.

PICOTEES

Carnation (dwarf), white-feathered bright rose ; long
pointed bloom.

Elegans alba (medium height), a vase-shaped bloom of
pure white with a wire edge of carmine running round each
petal ; very refined.

Golden Crown (dwarf), yellow, edged with scarlet ; flushes
with age.

Illuminator (medium height), the largest and best of the
Billietiana type, deep yellow, feathered rich crimson.

Isabella (dwarf), deep cream, flushed with crimson.

Picotee (medium height), white margined with rose;
flushes with age.

Pride of Inglescombe (tall), a white, pointed flower,
heavily margined with rose, which gradually diffuses itself
over the whole bloom ; very late.

RED AND ROSE COLOURED VARIETIES

Cassandra (medium height), rather early, bright rose.
Elegans (medium), has long pointed petals of bright
crimson.

COTTAGE VARIETIES 37

Feu Ardent (tall), a large, cup-shaped bloom, rich mahogany
red, early.

Gesneriana spathulata (tall), intense crimson, with rich
blue base ; one of the best of tulips.

Goldfinder (Cyclops), (tall), clear scarlet.

La Merveille (tall), a long-waisted flower of a delightful
shade of orange-cherry.

Marksman (dwarf), rich orange-scarlet ; most effective.

Mrs. W. O. Wolseley (medium height), rich crimson,
pointed petals ; ideal for beds and borders.

Panorama (tall), an immense globular flower of rich,
orange-red shade.

Pompadour (dwarf), a long flower of intense crimson.

Scarlet Emperor (medium height), a magnificent scarlet
self ; one of the very best.

Scarlet Mammoth (dwarf), an immense goblet-shaped
bloom of a peculiarly dazzling shade of crimson-scarlet ;
mid-season.

STRIPED ("BROKEN" OR RECTIFIED)

Chameleon (medium height), a pale yellow ground, flaked
and splashed with maroon and heliotrope ; generally admired.

Cherbourg (tall), a rich yellow bloom, feathered with
red-brown.

Columbus (medium height), golden-yellow, with scarlet
splashes.

Gold Mine (medium height), a rich, brown flower, striped
with orange and mahogany ; very handsome.

Striped Beauty (Summer Beauty), (medium height), laven-
der, rose and white; a tricolour of olden days.

Zomerschoon (dwarf), salmon-rose and pale cream ; ex-
quisite colouring. One of the oldest varieties in commerce.

38 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

WHITE VARIETIES

Albion (tall), with age passes to white with mauve interior.
L' Innocence (medium height), a long pointed flower.
White Szvan (medium height), a mid-season flower Uke
Le Reve and Scarlet Mammoth. An egg-shaped flower.

YELLOW

Avis Kennicott (tall), a handsome, long flower, a deeper
shade than Mrs. Moon and approaching W. T. Ware.

Bouton cTOr (medium), rather a small bloom of the
richest shade of yellow.

Ellen Willmott (tall), a fine, pale-yellow flower of pointed
shape ; later than Solfatare.

Dainty Maid (tall), a pleasing combination of rosy-mauve
and white.

Gesneriana lutea pallida (Mrs. Keightley), (medium), a
splendid pale-yellow flower.

Inglescombe Yellow (medium), a grand tulip ; canary-yellow
self.

Leghorn Bonnet (medium), soft, chrome-yellow, loosely
built, which gives it distinctness.

Moonlight (medium), long primrose yellow; early, very
beautiful in beds ; lasts well.

Mrs. Moon (tall), magnificent golden yellow-waisted
bloom.

Retroflexa (medium), soft yellow ; an exceptionally elegant
plant, the petals recurve in a most graceful manner ; an ideal
tulip for cutting.

Solfatare (tall), after Ellen Willmott, but much earlier;
a sport from Fulgens.

Walter T. Ware (medium), unique, the deepest yellow
tulip in the world ; flowers of good shape.

DARWIN TULIPS 39

CHAPTER X

DARWINS

The strong-growing race of breeder tulips known as
''Darwins" was first introduced into commerce in 1899 by
Messrs. Krelage & Son of Haarlem. The original habitat
from whence they were procured has never been divulged,
but from the number of varieties that formed the original
stock it is plain that they have been cultivated for a very
considerable time, and, as all of them are excellent specimens
of what a garden strain should be, endless care and patience
must have been unstintingly given them. Was it the inmates
of some monastery in Flanders who had nursed them ? or
the loving owners of some private domain in the Netherlands ?
or who ? Mr. E. H. Krelage said at a dinner of the Horti-
cultural Club some two years since, " It is enough that we
have them." So we must be satisfied. It is only now that
" Darwins " are beginning to be properly appreciated. I
believe that the rise in prices which took place this spring
(191 2) is only the prelude to a far greater and wider popu-
larity than this strain of tulips has heretofore enjoyed. They
richly deserve it, for they are a wonderful ornament to our
gardens at a time when bright colour is wanted.

Thanks, too, to numerous experiments, we have found out
that many varieties are amenable to pot culture, and one of
the pleasures that I look forward to every March is my
greenhouse full of Darwins. To be seen at their best, the
pots must be placed on the ground and not on the stages,
otherwise one of the peculiar charms of these flowers cannot
be seen, namely, their beautiful bases. An ideal place is a
winter garden or large conservatory which is used for a
lounge or smoking-room. I never advise anyone to try and

40 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

get them earlier than the second week in March. If they do,
almost to a certainty the stems will be weak, and they will
want so much staking that a great part of their beauty will
be lost. Now that Allwood Brothers of Haywards Heath
have made their plant supports in several sizes, I " use no
other." The time they save is very great, and, the support
being in the centre of the pot, it has a neat and unobtrusive
appearance. I usually pot the bulbs in the second week in
October, and at once place them in a cold frame where
they get abundance of air night and day. At first we shade
heavily, but afterwards, as soon as they are rooted, the plants
are fully exposed to the light. It is well, if extra fine flowers
are wanted, to give plenty of pot room. Five bulbs in a
7-inch pot is my regular practice for getting "tip-top"
blooms. We never plant deeply, seldom covering the top
of the bulbs with more than half an inch of soil. Frost is
always carefully excluded from the frames, and the plants
are brought into the greenhouse, which usually has a day
temperature of about 50° to 55° a month or five weeks before
they are required to flower. For isolated massing in beds, or
for clumps in the herbaceous border, this wonderful strain is
superb.

If summer bedding stands in the way of planting Darwins
for ornamenting the late spring garden, it should be widely
known that these tulips bear transplanting as soon as the petals
have fallen. If care is taken to get up the roots without break-
ing and not to damage the leaves, the plants hardly suffer at
all from the operation. Any open, unused bit of ground will
do to receive the bulbs until the foliage has died down,
when the ordinary routine of lifting and storing may be
carried out.

Darwin tulips are ideal flowers for cutting, and a certain
number should always be grown in nursery beds for this
purpose. I make a rule never to cut off more than one green

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DARWIN TULIPS 43

leaf because such cutting does not injure the bulb in the least.
So many excellent varieties are now available that I have had
the greatest difficulty in confining my list to fifty. Had I in-
cluded those with yellow bases, such as Lucifer and Clio,
my list most certainly would not have stopped where it has.
This leads me to again say that I regret very much the wrong
nomenclature which is now almost universally to be seen in
catalogues. The original strain did not include bizarres, and
it seems to me to be entirely wrong to put them into it now.
I only hope Messrs. Krelage and Messrs. Barr will steadily
refuse in the future, as they have done in the past, to list any
yellow-based tulip as a Darwin.

LIST OF FIFTY DARWIN TULIPS

The numbers immediately following the name refer to the
pages and sections of the Colour Chart {Repertoire des CouleurSf
Libraire Horticole, Paris, 1905). Some of these numbers
have been supplied by Mr. Rudolf Barr, to whom my thanks
are due for his kind help ; some are my own. They purport
to give the outside shade of the petals, but as so much de-
pends on the age of the flower when gathered, and the light in
which each one is examined, I cannot claim anything more
than approximity for them. Where we have each done the
same flower, in some cases, as in Professor Rauwenhof, we
agree exactly ; in others, as in Suzon, we seem rather far apart.
I hope, however, the references will be found useful, and that
they may serve as a basis for future observation.

Dark Shades

Faust (191.1), purple-maroon.

Frans Hals (185.4), deep reddish-purple.

Jubilee (189.4), rich blue-purple.

Morales (185.3), deep purple, with bloom on exterior.

44 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Velvet Kmg (185.4), royal purple.
Za?isibar {I'ji.^), deep, glossy maroon.
Zulu (193.4), purple-black, very tall.

Deep Crimson and Red
A uber {G'x^sy Queen) (172.4), rich claret.
Harry Veitch (165.3), dark blood-red.
King Harold {16^.2), deep rich crimson.
Millet (165.2), dark maroon-crimson.
Mrs. Potter Palmer (174.2), red-purple.
Raphael {I'^i.T,), dark reddish-claret ; a deep shade of Mrs.
Potter Palmer.

Pink and Rosy Pink

Clara Butt (119.1), delicate rose-pink.

Edmee (157.4), rosy-cherry, edged blush.

Fanny (150.3), pale rose.

Flamingo (150.1), pink.

Haarlem (168.2), salmony-rose, edged pale pink.

La Fiancee, similar to Edmee, but paler and earlier.

Prince of the Netherlands (167. i), magnificent rosy-carmine

with a paler edge.
Stizon (7.4), or dark part (157.1), rosy flesh, edged flesh.
Yolande (Duchess of Westminster) (119.2), salmon-rose,

paler margin.

Purple

Marie (189.4), ^^'^^Y blue-purple, tall grower, long flower.
The Bishop (189.4), true purple, round flower; rather late.
Viking (189.4), medium height, intense violet.

Mauves
Bleu aimable (189.1), lovely vase shape, bluish-heliotrope ;

extra.
Crdpuscule (186.3), rosy-mauve.

DARWIN TULIPS 45

Electra (175.2), silver-rosy lavender, very pale edge.
Erguste (187.2), deep heliotrope ; a dainty flower.
Euterpe (195. i), mauve with paler edge ; very beautiful.
Mauve Clair (175.1), petals flamed reddish-mauve, with

pale blush edge.
Melicette (180.1), distinct open-shaped flower, rosy-mauve.
Rev. H. Ewbank (188.3), silvery-heliotrope.

Slaty-Lilac

La Tristesse (188.3), very tall, slaty-blue, edged grey.
Ronald Gunn (189.3), rather late, slaty-purple, with curious
light tips to the petals as they are expanding.

Reds

Ariadne (116.4), brilliant red.

City of Haarlem (115.3), dull, blood-red; very hand-
some.
his ( 1 13.3), fine tall scarlet.

Madame Bosboom Toussaint {1^6.^, rose, distinct.
Mr. Farncombe Sanders (iii.i), rosy-crimson.
Orion (110.3), a very bright red, nearly scarlet.
Pride of Haarlem (116.1), old rose colour.
Prof. Raiiwenhof {116.2), rosy-crimson.
Sieraad van Flora (157.2), tall, bright rosy-red.
Tara (168.4), ruby-red.
William Pitt (114.1), crimson.

White and Pale Shades

La Candeiir (5.4), nearest approach to pure white.
Margaret (7.2), rosy-blush, nearly w^hite outside.

46 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

CHAPTER XI

REMBRANDT TULIPS

These are broken or rectified Darwins. Except that they
are taller and larger, they very much resemble the
" Flamandes " or " Baguettes " of the French florists. Nantes
has for many years been a centre for their cultivation, and,
through the kindness of my friend Monsieur E. Gadeceau, I
have grown some of the best varieties. I agree with what
he says in his last letter whether we ought not to consider
them "comme des Darwins d^gencries ou malades, comme
il vous plaire." Of late years I have made a practice of
marking and picking out all the broken ones amongst my
Darwins, and I put these all together and plant them as a
mixed bed. I like the bewildering medley of colour. To my
eyes, it is a very effective and no mean substitute for that
ideal glory of colour — a bed of modern English florist tulips
well cultivated, well protected, and well arranged. " Not in
Nature is there anything to compare with beds of such
flowers seen as only they can be appreciated in the sunlight."
Named varieties of Rembrandts are now to be had, and, as
a sign of the times, I may mention that I was asked at the
International Horticultural Exhibition by the head of a very
well known Yorkshire firm of nurserymen to "write up
Rembrandts." He was beginning to be asked for them, and
in consequence he was introducing them into gardens with
the happiest effects. Among the best I may mention (the
descriptions are Krelage's) —

Anne Mary, feathered and flamed lilac.

Gretchen, vivid red on soft pink ground, white flame.

Marco Spado, fiery red on white ground.

LATE DOUBLE TULIPS 47

Quasimodo, crimson striped.

Semele, large flower, vivid pink feathered.

Victor Hugo, deep crimson flamed.

CHAPTER XII

LATE DOUBLE TULIPS

There is nothing much to say about late double tulips
except that nowadays the section is a very small one, and that
they are of no use under glass. Out of doors I have grown
a few from year to year, but thev have seldom been a success.
A great many " ifs " have to come off before they do what
they are expected to do when planted. They produce im-
mense blooms, and after rain or wind it is no uncommon
thing to go out and find many of the heads snapped off. In
the most favourable circumstances it is as much as they can
do to hold themselves erect. If they had stems like walking-
sticks it would be another matter, and they would be more
popular. There is no doubt Bleu Celeste (Blue Flag) is a
lovely shade of pale (or faded) blue-purple, and in sheltered
positions is well worth growing. I always like the crimson
and white striped Mariage de ma Fille for its quaint markings
and old associations. This section flowers at the same time
as the earliest of the Cottage tulips. I recommend them only
to be used as clumps in herbaceous borders. Our climate
is too uncertain to allow them very often to do themselves
justice in large beds, where so much of the effect depends
upon the soldier-like precision of the ranks of blooms and
where many vacancies spoil everything. In a clump,
unless it is part of a formal row, failures are not so con-
spicuous.

48 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

The following are some of the best varieties : —

Bleu Celeste (Blue Flag), very tall ; pleasing shade of pale

purple-blue.
Count of Leicester, deep yellow.
La Belle Alliance, a bybloemen, white ground feathered and

striped with purple.
Mariage de ma Fille, crimson and white stripes.
Rose Pompon, pale yellow with red stripes.
Yellow Rose, tall, yellow self.

CHAPTER XIII

PARROT TULIPS

*' Parrots " have been in existence for ages. At their first
appearance people looked askance, and, as was the case with
the doubles, called them "monsters." In all old books they
are delegated to a low position in the tulip hierarchy. It is
extremely interesting to note that all the old varieties are
bizarres. As I feel quite certain that any type of early or
late tulip ^ may take on the spurs and lacerations which are
characteristic of the parrots, it is not a mere chance that such
is the fact. The probability is that those who tolerated
bizarres went a little further and admitted parrots. At least
they did not do to them what Alphonse Carr's auricula

* I have seen the Early single Eleanora become quite a parrot in Zavanenberg
Nurseries, Holland. The first break was in 1906. I saw the stock in 1908.

Messrs. Barr & Sons offer Sensation which came as a break in a bed of an old
Dutch breeder tulip, Reine d'Espagne.

Mr. J. Duncan Pearson wrote me that in 19 1 2 he noticed signs of parroting in
Gesneriana major and Margaret (Darwin).

I noticed myself a Yellow Prince showing unmistakable signs some three or
four years since at one of the exhibitions, and I have had Darwins develop spurs
on the petals every now and again in my own greenhouse.

PARROT TULIPS 49

fanciers did to the pin-eyed auriculas — "crushed" is his one
word of comment. The bizarre people, who were the
Flemish, preserved the strange new monsters, for their taste
for novelty was tickled. From them we have probably got our
parrots, and their French names seem to support this view.

These quaintly-shaped flowers look well in clumps, although
they are a little top-heavy. They may also be grown in pans or
boxes for cutting, as there are many high-up positions in a
room where they look very well indeed ; but they must not be
forced, and they need not be put in the dark like the earlies.

An effective and rather uncommon way of growing them
is in hanging baskets of wire or wood. Thickly moss all
round the exterior of the receptacle, and fill the inside with a
retentive soil of half leaf-mould and half good fibrous loam
and sand. Place the bulbs so that some will grow through
the sides and some out of the top. The basket can be
started as an ordinary pot, care being taken to stand it on
something so as not to flatten the bottom too much. A
flower pot does very well for the purpose. When a few
inches of growth have been made, it must be suspended in a
greenhouse or winter garden and kept well watered, especially
in hot, windy weather. So treated, each one will make a
very pleasing object, the great uncouth and ragged blooms
hanging down in charming confusion and displaying their
quaint colouring and weird shapes.

The best parrots are as under : —

Amiral de Constantmople, scarlet and deep yellow.

Cafe Brun, reddish-brown and yellow.

Cramoise Brillant, blood-red.

Lutea major, yellow.

Markgraaf vail Baden, orange and red.

Perfecta, golden-yellow, with some deep red splashes.

Sensation^ purple and white ; an excellent novelty.

50 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

CHAPTER XIV

SPECIES OF TULIPA

Hitherto I have only described "garden forms," but side
by side with these in gardens there have generally been a
certain number of wild species : very few, it is true, com-
pared with the vast number of the others, but still they were
there, and there they have been since the days of Gerard and
Parkinson. It is a moot point if T. syhestris is truly wild in
England, but it has long been a denizen of our gardens.
Other old inhabitants are the charming little Lady Tulip
{T. Clusiana), the "Sun's Eye" {T. oculis solis), and possibly
T. suaveolens, figured by Gesner, the supposed parent of the
early race of Due van Thols. These all came to us over
three hundred years ago. Then there was a long inter-
regnum, and, if we are to trust old works on horticulture,
species of Tulipa must have become practically unknown to
British gardens, for Miller (1732) does not allude to them in
his Dictionary, nor Maddock (1792) in his Florist's Directory y
nor Loudon in his monumental Encyclopcsdia in 1822. An
interesting sidelight is thrown upon this disappearance by
what Mons. Charles Malo (1821) says in his Histoire des
Tulipes about T. Clusiana. He there speaks of its introduc-
tion or reintroduction into Parisian gardens by M. Robert, a
Toulon botanist, and a M. Amoureux, who sent it to M. Cels
under the name of T. cypriani.

What gave a lift up in popular estimation to the natural
species was the opening up of Central Asia about thirty to
forty years ago, and the explorations there of the Russian
botanist Regel, who found and sent home many prizes,
including T. Greigii and T. Kaufinanniana. Later still, the

SPECIES OF TULIPA 51

expeditions organised by C. G. van Tubergen, junr., of Haar-
lem, added more magnificent flowers, including T. Fosterzana,
T. ingens, and T. prcestans (Tubergen). These Eastern
species, combined with the much discussed NeotuHps of
Northern Italy and Savoy, provide a diversity of size and
shape that we miss in the garden forms. The origin
of these latter (Neotulips) is very difficult to determine.
Their mysterious appearances and disappearances in well-
known places have occupied the attention of several Euro-
pean botanists. Solms-Laubach {Weizen und Tulpe, 1899),
Chabert {Bull, de la Soc. Bot. de France, vol, xxx., 1883),
Fiori {Malpighia, vol. viii., 1894, and vol. ix., 1895), and
Levier {Bull, de la Soc. des Sc. nat. de Neufchatel, vol. xii.,
1884) have all written upon the subject and treated it very
fully. As I have said elsewhere (page 84), the sudden flower-
ing of tulips in my own churchyard at Whitewell this last
spring, after the hot summer of 191 1, may have some bear-
ing upon their curious behaviour. These must have been
there upwards of ten years ; and until now have practically
been without a flower since the year or two after they were
first planted.

With the exceptions of T. mauriana, some of the T.
Billietiana varieties and T. Kaufmanniana, I do not think any
are very well adapted for beds. They are uncertain in their
time of flowering, or rather I should say that it seems to be
impossible to get any large number to bloom all at the same
time. I imagine we have to depend very largely on newly
collected bulbs. This would account for it. I fear that most
of these grand new species from Turkestan, Bokhara, Persia,
and elsewhere will not be found to be good doers. Few
make any offsets ; even such as T. Huifolia and T. Batalinii
increase very sparingly, although they seem fairly at home.
With me the best of the big, gorgeous-flowered ones are T.
prcestans (Tubergen) and T, Eichleri. I have a whole lot which

52 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

I have left undisturbed for two years, and it is from the
behaviour of these that I say what I have done about these
species. Among the smaller species, T. linifolia, T. Batalznii,
T. dasystemon, T. pulchella, T. prhnulina, and T. persica are
the most satisfactory. I have seen T. persica forming the
edging of a border, where it has been left undisturbed for
some years, doing very well. T. dasystemon does excellently,
and increases. Its golden centre is very striking.

Tulips like the T. Billietiana series, T. mauriana, T. mar-
jolletii, T. elegans (a doubtful species), T. Didieri, T. Didieri
alba, T. slrangulata, and T. primulina may be treated exactly
like the Cottage and Darwin tulips. They are just as satis-
factory to grow, and seem to have taken kindly to our
gardens.

The purposes, then, for which the majority of the species
of Tulipa are most especially fitted are clumps of greater or
lesser size in herbaceous borders and the rockery. In the latter,
colonies of T. linifolia would be very bright, and, given well
drained, light rich soil, ought to succeed if left alone. T.
dasystevion the same. Isolated specimens of such species as
T. Greigii and T. Fosteriana would be very effective.

The following is a list, with a very short description of the
best and most satisfactory species : —

Billietiana. — Soft yellow flushed carmine, after Golden
Crown. The variety Illuminator is the tallest, largest,
and highest coloured form of this species.

Clusiana. — A slender plant, with white flower flushed with
rose externally ; deep claret base.

Dasystemon. — White with a large yellow centre; dwarf,
many flowered.

Didieri, — A charming, slender-looking plant, with a long,
slender, crimson flower.

Didieri alba. — Pure white.

SPECIES OF TULIPA 53

£"zV^/m (Caucasus). — A magnificent crimson-scarlet flower.

Fosteriana (Bokhara, 1904). — Almost vermilion ; some have
dark bases, and some pure yellow.

G^r^^^w (Turkestan). — A large flame-red flower, with a dark
base bordered with yellow ; leaves spotted.

Kaufmanniana. — Palest primrose ; many have great flames
of carmine on the exterior of the petals, and some
of the same colour round the pale yellow base. It is
called '* Water Lily Tulip." An early flowerer. The
variety aurea is a grand deep-yellow flower, whilst
coccinea (Turkestan, 1900) is vivid scarlet with a
yellow base. These two last varieties are very mag-
nificent in full sunshine.

Linifolia (Central Asia). — A dwarf grower, with a widely
open flower of sealing-wax red, and well defined, black
base.

Marjolletii, — Slender-growing, pale yellow, exterior of
petals rosy at the base ; excellent for cutting.

Mauria7ia. — A grand, bright-red flower with yellow base ;
very lasting, an excellent doer.

Oculis soils (S. France). — Bright red, bordered yellow,
black base.

Perslca (Persia). — Dwarf, yellow and golden-bronze.

Prcestans (Tubergen) (Bokhara, 1902). — Brilliant vermilion,
several flowers on a stem ; foliage light green and
downy.

Primullna (Algeria). — Pale primrose.

Pulchella. — Very dwarf, brilliant lake-red.

Sprengeri. — Very late ; brilliant scarlet.

Strangulata primullna. — Sulphur-yellow ; very effective
and pretty.

Sylvestrls. — Bright yellow.

54 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

CHAPTER XV

THE FLORIST TULIP

To write a full historical account of the development of the
florist tulip from its earliest beginnings in the days prior to
the celebrated period of the tulip mania until the present time
would be a very lengthy performance. In pre-Parkinson days
in England — that is, before 1629 — technical colloquial names
were given to the different markings of the petals, and we read
of Dukes and Princes, and " Fooles Coates " and " Fooles
Cappes/' thereby showing that the attention of tulip growers
was directed to the varied markings of the flowers, so much
so, in fact, that for convenience of reference these special
names were coined. In France, too, before de la Chesn^e
Monstereul wrote Le Floriste Franqois (1654), similar appella-
tions must have been in vogue, for we find in this work the
" broken " ones divided into Paltots, Morillons, Agates, and
"les plus bells de toutes," Marquetines, or, even more
esteemed still, the " Marquetrines," with four or five colours
in their petals, each one clear and well defined.

Much the same happened in Holland. The variations
were noted and a process of selection kept going on. Chapter
XXII of the Dutch Gardener (English translation, 1703) is
headed " What Tulips are esteemed to be the best," and it
begins "about this, all Florists are not of one mind, for some
esteem the Violets striped with white. . . . Others prize the
Bissants, yet both are to be esteemed, and a florist ought to
be provided with both of them." It ends " Yet every one has
his Darling, and a Man's Mind is his Kingdom." Confining
myself to the changes that have taken place in our own island,
after Parkinson we come to John Rea (1665). In his Flora we
have a long list of Prxcoces and especially of Mcdias, but few

THE FLORIST TULIP ^^

"Serotina." The diversity in the markings is noted, but no
definition of the properties which go to constitute a fine tulip,
"Agot/' "Pass," and "Widow" are amongst the technical
terms used, and " besides these, there are many pretty new
flowers which arise from good self colours, which the French
call Bizars and we French Modes." A third edition was
published in 1702, but beyond a number of names being
added to the Medias, there is no important change and no
desideratum described.

The earliest definition of a florist tulip that I have been
able to find is that contained in Philip Miller's Gardener's
Dictionary, 1732. It is so important that I give it in full.
They are, as he says, "the Properties of a good Tulip,
according to the characteristics of the best Florists of the
present Age. i. It should have a tall, strong stem. 2. The
Flower should consist of six leaves, three within and three
without ; the former ought to be larger than the latter.
3. Their Bottom should be proportioned to their Top, and
their upper Part should be rounded off, and not terminate in
a Point. 4. These Leaves, when opened, should neither turn
inward nor bend outward, but rather stand erect, and the
Flower should be of a middling size, neither over large nor
too small. 5. The stripes should be small and regular arising
quite from the Bottom of the Flower ; for if there are any
Remains of the former self coloured Bottom, the Flower is in
danger of losing its Stripes again. The Chives should not be
yellow, but of a brown Colour. When a Flower has all these
Properties, it is esteemed a good one."

During the eighteenth century French and Dutch desig-
nations crept into British nomenclature. Whitmill, in his
Gardener s Universal Kalendar, published in 1765, mentions
Bagats, "tall flowers, white and purple marbled. Agates, shorter
flowers, veined with two colours," and Beazarts, " which have
four colours tending to yellow and red of several sorts."

56 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Justice, 1764, who took special interest in Dutch bulbs, divided
them into " Baguets, Bybloemens, which are a sort of Baguets,
and into Bisards." Thus we see Dutch and French names
for the divisions coming into use. In Maddock's Florist's
Directory^ I792» "Agates" have dropped out, and "Roses"
(omitted by mistake in this edition ; see page 22, 2nd edition,
1810, edited by S. Curtis) have been introduced. The divisions
are now " i. Primo Baguets ; 2. Baguet rigauts ; 3. Incom-
parable vcrports ; 4. Bybloemens ; 5. Roses ; 6. Bizards.
The first four have white bottoms or grounds and the bizards
have yellow grounds." Thus we get a definite classification
of the types of flower as it holds good to the present time,
namely, Bybloemens, Roses, and Bizarres (see the schedules
for the Royal National Tulip Society's shows).

To show the advance that had been made since Miller
first published his Dictionary, I now give the properties as
we find them in Maddock (ist edition, page 67): — "The
stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, and about 30 inches
above the surface of the bed. The flower should be large
and composed of six petals ; these should proceed a little
horizontally at first and then turn upwards, forming almost
a perfect cup, with a round bottom, rather widest at the top.
The three exterior petals should be rather larger than the
three interior ones and broader at their base ; all the petals
should have perfectly entire edges, free from notch or ser-
rature ; the top of each should be broad and well rounded ;
the ground colour of the flower at the bottom of the cup
should be clear white or yellow ; and the various rich coloured
stripes, which are the principal ornament of a fine tulip,
should be regular, bold, and distinct on the margin, and
terminate in fine, broken points, elegantly feathered or
pencilled.

"The centre of each leaf or petal should contain one or
more bold blotches or stripes, intermixed with small portions

PLATE V

PRINCE OF AUSTRIA

FRED MOORE

THE FLORIST TULIP 59

of the original or breeder colour, abruptly broken into many
irregular obtuse points. Some florists are of the opinion
that the central stripes or blotches do not contribute to the
beauty and elegance of the tulip unless confined to a narrow
stripe, exactly down the centre, and that they should be
perfectly free from any remains of the original or breeder
colour ; it is certain such appear very beautiful and delicate,
especially when they have a regular narrow feathering at the
edge ; but the greatest connoisseurs in this flower unanimously
agree, that it denotes superior merit when the tuhp abounds
with rich colouring, distributed in a distinct and regular
manner throughout the flower, except in the bottom of the
cup, which it cannot be disputed should be a clear, bright
white or yellow free from stain or tinge, in order to constitute
a perfect flower."

One can get a good idea of what an up-to-date tulip was
like about the year 1800 from a fine plate in Thornton's
Temple of Floj-a, which was published in 1799. Towards the
year 1830, and for the next ten or twelve years, we find there
was a tendency to be more strict in insisting upon evenness
of the markings, the substance of the petals, and the purity of
the base. Some of the celebrated flowers of this date are
illustrated in Sweet's Florist's Guide, 1 828-1 832. Some ten
years afterwards — that is about 1840 — George Glenny, the
"flower dictator," began to publish his celebrated Properties
of Flowers. One by one all the best known and most widely
cultivated plants of the day came under his notice, and he
laid down arbitrary laws for their improvement. I suppose
no one ever did more than he did to determine the directions
in which so many flowers should be developed. Naturally he
did not omit the tulip, and he framed twelve points, which
must each one be satisfied by a good flower. The main
differences to be noticed between him and Maddock are : —
I, The form and shape of the flower itself ; 2, Quartering

6o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

prohibited ; 3, The even disposition of the colours or mark-
ings ; 4, Unbroken feathering ; and 5, The behaviour of the
beam. Many were the disputes which arose between
Northern and Southern growers and exhibitors over some of
these propositions. It was impossible to find flowers that
fulfilled them all, and as a consequence people had to be
content with the imperfect. It so happened that the Southern
people valued most highly a good cup and a clear bottom,
while the Northern growers insisted that the flaming and
feathering of the petal were more important. The shape of
the beam and the delicacy or heaviness of the feathering were
also points which divided them. The establishment of the
Royal National Tulip Society in 1849 did much to bring the
Northern, Midland, and Southern growers together, and to
remove the differences that existed. I am unable to give the
date of John Slater's Amateur Florist's Guide, but I imagine it
must have been published somewhere in the early fifties. In it
we find a still further development of the necessary properties.
The form of the cup or flower, the shape of the individual petal,
the purity of the filaments, the homogeneity of the ground
colour, the regularity and continuity of the feathering, the
evenness of the branching of the beam, and the actual shade
of colour of which the marking is composed are all considered
important factors in the make up of a first-rate florist tulip.
The latest writers on the qualities that an ideal flower should
have are the Rev. F. D. Horner (who died July 1912), Mr. J. W.
Bentley, Mr. A. D. Hall, and Mr. C. W. Needham. From The
English Tulip and its History, published in 1897 by Messrs.
Barr & Sons, we learn the desirable qualities of a modern
flower. They are not so very different from those laid down
by Slater, but there are advances — for example, in an ideal
feathered bloom, the feathering must be entirely confined to
the edge, the marking must be the same both on the inside
and the outside of the petal, the colours must be more brilliant,

THE FLORIST TULIP 6i

the beam must be distinct and " not broken by intrusive
ground colour, and the branches must be fine and distinct,
allowing the ground colour to be seen between them," and
they must " unite gracefully with the feathering on the
edges."

I fear even now the non-florists will hardly comprehend
all these details, and the difference they make in a modern
flower compared with one of sixty years ago. I can only
suggest a visit to the National Tulip Show in London any
spring when the opportunity occurs. Few realise the refine-
ment and exquisite loveliness of the florist tulip, and the
uninitiated scoff — but then they do not know. It was not a
very good show in 1912. The season had been a very trying
one ; and on the show-day the light was fitful and the tulips
missed that final touch to their loveliness which only comes
from the sun's rays. The R.H.S. Hall was full of a wealth
of bright bloom, but to a certain few there was nothing there
but these tulips. The show tulip is an essentially British
product, thought out and brought to its present perfec-
tion by a long line of raisers of our own country, including
Clarke, Strong, Lawrence, Goldham, Gibbons, Slater, Hardy,
Hepworth, Ashmole, Dymock, Horner, Lloyd, Thurstan,
Barlow, Bentley, and Hall.

I would like to dwell on the history of its cultivation, but
space forbids. The tulip cabinet is as ancient as the hills.
The necessity for protection when in bloom has been for a
very long time well known. There is a picture of a tulip
shade in the frontispiece of L'Ecole du Jardinier flcuristey in
1764. The dates for planting and lifting are solemn seasons,
observed from old time almost as if they were red-letter days
in the ecclesiastical calendar. The method of committing
the bulb to the ground is a sort of sacred rite. In a word,
the orthodox planter of to-day does as his fathers did in
very many ways, but not in everything. One seldom sees

62 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

nowadays the old tent wherein the raised bed or beds were
protected from the inclemency of the weather, and where
seats were provided for the " curious " visitors. A movable
glass light now does duty. It protects the growing plants
from frost, and later on the flowers from wind and rain. The
drainage of the bed is attended to more carefully, and if
necessary it is raised six or eight inches above ground level.
But four feet wide and seven rows of bulbs are still the
practice, and if possible the soil is changed. Gross feeding
has been abandoned.

The culture of the florist tulip is extremely simple. Good
drainage, good but not rich soil — protection from frost, hail,
and wind ; care in lifting and storing.

I had a visit this last spring from Mr. C. W, Needham, and
he told me I was growing my florist tulips "all right." I
treat them exactly as I treat my others (see chapter on
Cultivation), with the one exception that I cover them with
lights in good time in April. It is practically a glass um-
brella that I put over them, for the sides are only protected
with " coir screening," which is a very open net made of
cocoa-nut fibre cord, and allows a free current of air to pass
through all the time. On the brightest days I throw a light
shade over the top of the glass for six hours when the sun
is hottest. The lights are fastened to wooden supports four
feet clear from the soil, formed of good, strong posts and with
cross pieces nailed to the top, running along both sides of the
bed. Immediately the flowers are over, they are removed.

I have already said that the florist divides his tulips into
Bybloemens, Roses, Bizarres, and Breeders. When a tulip
breaks it may become either feathered (generally written fr.)
or feathered and flamed (generally written fid.) ; thus we may
have a Rose fr. and a Rose fid. ; a Bizarre fr. and a Bizarre
fid. ; a Byblcemen fr. and a Bybloemen fid. We also get a
liyblcumen breeder, a Rose breeder, and a Bizarre breeder.

THE FLORIST TULIP 63

These nine divisions, grouped in various ways or taken singly,
compose the schedule of the Royal National Tulip Society.
No, I am wrong. For the last four or five years two or three
classes have been provided for Darwins and May-flowering
tulips, and the Council of Management enlarged to include
representatives of growers of the last types. I look forward
to a time when the lion will lie down with the lamb — when
there will be an adequate representation of all sections at a
great show where the oriental magnificence of the garden
forms will be a contrasting foil to the quieter glory of
the English type; and when its "feast" day will be as an
important one in the Gardener's Calendar as its younger rival
the Rose Show is to-day. I have spoken of breaking. Two
breeders of the same variety may break differently, one may
become feathered and the other flamed and feathered. As
they have broken, so they will remain, every offset repeating
the marking of its parent. We thus can have a flower in
three conditions — e.g. Sir Joseph Paxton. It is a Bizarre, and
we have it as a breeder, a feathered, and a flamed. To have
a variety good in the three conditions is rare, for more often
than not we only have it in two, like Dr. Hardy and Modesty,
or only in one, as Glory of Stakehill. It is a strange fact
that the brightest coloured and most pleasing breeders do
not as a rule give the best and most beautiful rectified flowers.
The reverse is usually the case.

Again a breeder may break into a feather, but that par-
ticular break may be a bad one, or it may be a good one.
As the original character of the break is retained in the offset,
which in turn becomes the flowering bulb of the succeeding
year, it is important to know if we are getting a good strain
when we get a new tulip. The name is not everything, we
must have the additional information about its strain. To
produce the finest show blooms there are many little details of
culture which must be attended to, and which no book can

64 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

teach. It is impossible to tell the exact richness of any
particular soil except by practical experience. We have to
learn what, if any, artificial drainage is necessary. Intuition
born of close observation has to tell us the psychological
moment at which to cover the buds. And even then, such
is the inconstancy of the flower, the most skilled grower
can never be sure of what he will get in any particular year.
The well-behaved plant of several seasons may suddenly "go
wrong," while others which he had spared for the last time
last year have given him unexpected surprises. " In short,"
to quote J. W. Bentley in The English Tulip, "it may be
said that it is the bewitching combination of anticipation,
disappointment, and unexpected delights which makes tulip-
growing so fascinating to its votaries."

The Royal National Tulip Society publishes a full list of all
the flowers shown in the various classes in its annual report,
and from these a selection may be made by anyone wishing
to increase their stock ; but, as one name will be the same as
another to a beginner, I append a list of a small collection
which, if acquired, will serve as a nucleus for a more extended
one. Messrs. Barr & Sons are, I believe, the only dealers
who list these florist varieties. If, however, a new member
has any difficulty in procuring what he wants, a letter to
Mr. Peters, the genial Honorary Secretary (W. Peters, Farcet
House, Cambridge), will result in his being put on the right
way to get them.

Feathered.
Talisman.
Trip to Stockport.
Bessie.

ByblcEmens

Flamed.

Talisman.

Duchessof Sutherland.
Chancellor.
Geo. Edward Scho-
field.

Breeder,

Talisman.
Ashmole's seedling

126.
Eliz. Pegg.

CULTURE UNDER GLASS

6S

Feathered.

Annie M'Gregor.

Mabel .
Mrs. Collier.
Modesty.

Sir Joseph Paxton.
Masterpiece.
Wm. Annibal.

Roses

Flamed.

Annie M'Gregor.

Mabel.

Madame St. Arnaud.

Bizarres

Sir Joseph Paxton.
Sam Barlow.
Dr. Hardy.

Breeder.

Annie M'Gregor.
Rose Hill.
Mrs. Barlow.

Sir Joseph Paxton.
Goldfinder.
Alfred Lloyd.

CHAPTER XVI

CULTURE UNDER GLASS

The purposes for which tulips are grown under glass fall
under two main heads — i, the providing blooms for cutting,
and 2, the decoration of the greenhouse or dwelling-house
by means of plants in pots. I propose in this chapter to deal
with both purposes in some detail.

PART I
HOW TO GROW BLOOMS FOR CUTTING

For very early flowering, say in mid January or a little later,
special means have to be taken to obtain good results. The
great difficulty the private grower has to contend with is, how
to get a long enough stem to make the flowers of use for
either table or room decoration. Early-flowering varieties
such as La Reine, Rosamundi, Huyckman, Fred Moore, and

E

66 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Yellow Prince are alone suitable for the purpose, and some
of these, even if treated in the ordinary way as pot plants, would
fail to give satisfaction. Very many of them are naturally dwarf
growers, as anvone may see who pays a visit to the neighbour-
hood of Haarlem and Hillegom when the early flowers are
in bloom. So much is this the case that it is quite possible
for any one to know (say) Cottage Maid under glass quite
well and yet not to recognise it in the open, and vice versa.
The problem of the long stem is all-important. To amplify
and substantiate my own procedure, I have paid visits during
the early part of this year to certain establishments where
tulip forcing is carried on in a very large way ; and I wish here
to acknowledge my indebtedness toMessrs. Victor and Thomas
Page of Hampton, and to Messrs. Lowe and Shawyer of
Uxbridge, for receiving me as they did and so kindly giving
me much valuable information. Tulips before the 12th to
15th of January are much too ticklish a crop for me to
advise anyone but the most experienced to attempt it, and
the market gardener who is meditating taking up this branch
of the cut-flower trade should proceed most warily. The
necessary factors for success are large, well-ripened bulbs,
early boxing or potting from the end of September onwards,
a temperature of say from 65° to 70° until the buds are just
beginning to show colour, and then a slight drop until they
are cut, and, what is most important, a heavy shade during
the whole of this period.

As soon as the tulips are boxed they must be stood outside
and covered to the depth of about two inches, partly to keep
the soil moist and encourage root growth, partly to exclude
frost, and partly to begin the drawing-up process. One tirm
told me they used Lily of the Valley roots. Any medium
will do, provided there is nothing in it to start any fungus
growth. Then the September planted bulbs may he intro-
duced into heat about the 5th to the loth of December.

CULTURE UNDER GLASS 67

Different varieties require different treatment (thus Yellow
Prince requires more heat than Fred Moore), but these details
will be found out by practical experience. It is enough for
me to put growers on their guard. The shading used is
fairly heavy. What we locally call wrappering, or coarse
stuff that very rough aprons are made of, is about the best
thing.

It is only in large places where tulips are required in con-
siderable quantities that the foregoing treatment would be
practical. In establishments of ordinary size good use can be
made of any solid staging which has hot-water pipes under it,
and where the front can be closed in so that the bulbs will be
in almost total darkness. I have grown Due van Thols (scarlet),
Proserpine, Yellow Prince, Duchess of Parma, Rose luisante.
Prince of Austria, and others in this way, and have had most
satisfactory results. I flowered some Due van Thols on
January 26, 1912, with stems 9I to io| inches high, that had
been boxed just a month, while in other cases the period
was from six to seven weeks. All these were planted in the
ordinary way and at once put under the staging, and, beyond
keeping them dark and sufficiently moist, they gave no trouble
whatever ; the blooms lasted pretty well, but perhaps not so
long as if they had been brought on more slowly.

When tulips are not required until February and early
March, there are a considerable number of " any fools "
varieties, as Mr. George Sawyer very happily called them,
which are bound to do well ; such are Fred Moore, Duchess
of Parma, and Prince de Ligny. These are improved with a
little heavy shading during the early part of their growth, but
it is not necessary, as they naturally develop good stems
under glass.

When we come to March and early April there are two or
three "Cottagers" that will give good blooms. Isabella is
one of the very best of all tulips for mild forcing, if such it

68 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

can be called. The rosy-pink, widely feathered edge on a
groundwork of deep cream is a lovely combination, and it is
deservedly one of the popular favourites with my visitors.
Golden Crown is another variety to note. But the tulips for
this period of the year are the Darwins. It has been found
during the last few years that many of them are quite amen-
able to this form of culture, I have had surprisingly good
results myself, and I do not hesitate to advise anyone who
can afford the room always to grow some under glass.

The treatment I pursue is simple. I box or pot the bulbs
at the beginning of October, and place them in a cold frame,
from which frost can always be excluded. In the last week
of January or the first in February, I bring a first batch into a
cool house, which varies between 45° at night and 55° by day,
and bring them slowly along, giving as much air as possible
and staking when necessary. In ten days' or two weeks' time
a second lot is introduced, and by this means I get a good
succession of bloom. A list of some of the best varieties is
given on page 107.

For forcing for cutting it is not necessary to be too
particular about the soil — any soil will do if it is fairly light
and porous. Bulbs may be planted an inch apart, or in the
case of the large-growing Darwins an inch and a half. The
bulbs need only just be covered. I am disposed to think that
varieties which have a long, hard, pointed brown skin are all
the better for it being taken off before planting. We are
inclined to imagine that growers of a hundred and fifty or two
hundred years ago were a little fussy and pedantic with all their
minutiae of planting directions ; but I have long since come
to the conclusion they were not such old fussers after all, but
that there was generally some fire with their smoke. From
what I have been recently told, this question of the outer skin
being removed before the bulb is put into the ground or
potted is one to which we might give more attention.

CULTURE UNDER GLASS 69

PART II
HOW TO GROW PLANTS IN POTS OR BOWLS

There is really not very much to say about the cultivation
of tulips in pots. The ordinary routine treatment of forced
bulbs suits tulips very well. If I make any difference in the
soil, it is that I try to make it rather more retentive of
moisture, but at the same time I am careful to keep it as
porous as possible. I put more leaf-mould in my mixture than
I would for daffodils or hyacinths. Tulips like plenty of
water, but they don't care for it to be stagnant. The two
greatest difficulties I find are the provision of a suitable
plunging medium and the getting some varieties long enough
in the stem to look well. If possible, I would not plunge
them at all. In my own case it is not essential, as I have
sufficient frame room, which I can shade heavily until roots
are formed. Then to draw up the varieties that need it,
such as Proserpine, I place the pots under the staging of
the greenhouse where the pipes are never very warm, and
where I can conveniently darken it with mats for a short
time when they are first brought in. During the period
the pots are in the frames I give abundance of air both night
and day, and I am careful not to let the soil get soaked. It
is almost unnecessary to mention that the pots should never
be allowed to become frozen at any period. When bulbs
are growing in the greenhouse, and especially during the
time they are under the staging, they are liable to be attacked
with green fly. A sharp look-out must be kept, and either
syringing or fumigating resorted to immediately any signs of
the pest are seen.

With regard to the growing of all bulbs in bowls — that is,
receptacles without any holes for drainage at the bottom — I
have, after a considerable number of experiments, come to the

70 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

conclusion that it matters very little what it is that is used to
fill them with. I have had splendid results from employing
ordinary light garden-soil, common coarse white sand, ox: finely
broken up peat (peat-moss litter) — just as good as I have
ever had from using the most expensive made up "fibre."
This method of culture I never recommend to anyone who
can get good soil. But as there are many cases where it is
impossible to get it, a substitute becomes a necessity. I feel,
however, that I must warn those who are not accustomed to
grow bulbs in bowls that tulips are the most difficult of all
to manage, and that they need particular attention if the best
results are to be attained. Cultural details are now given in
so many bulb lists that it is unnecessary for me to say more
on this subject beyond this, that if tulips are decided upon
I should advise a first trial with the "easy" ones, such as
Scarlet Due van Thol, Yellow Prince, Vermilion Brilliant,
White Hawk, Brunhilde, Rose luisante, and Prince of Austria.

A pleasing and rather uncommon way to utilise Parrot
tulips for conservatory or winter garden decoration is to grow
them in wire baskets suspended from a roof. The receptacle
should be lined with a thick layer of living moss, and the
middle filled with a light compost. Plant some to come out
of the sides and others to grow out of the top. Start them in
a cold frame, placing the baskets on inverted pots, and sus-
pending them as soon as the growth requires it. The stems are
naturally rather weak in proportion to the bloom they carry,
and it will be found that they hang down, and if the basket is
high enough up to look under the tulips, the tout-ensetnble^\\\
be most effective.

Darwin tulips do very well in pots if they can have cold
frame treatment and not be put into heat until the second
or third week in February. The temperature should not be
above 50° to 55° by day, nor below 40° at night. To get
the most enjoyment out of them, put the pots on the Hour

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR 71

of the greenhouse when they are in bloom arranged in a
group. In this way it will be possible to see the beautiful
bases which otherwise would be out of sight.

Pots of any size may be used provided the number of
bulbs used is in proportion to the diameter of the pots. It is
very important to realise that there is a happy mean between
overcrowding and niggardliness. It is the hitting this off
that adds so much to the effectiveness of all tulips in pots.
I put three earlies in a 5-inch pot ; five in a 6-inch ; six
or possibly seven in a 7-inch, twelve in a lo-inch, and so on.
This is quite thick enough. Whether it be tulips or any
other flower, I like to see something of the green leaves
with which Nature has endowed them as well as the flowers.
Another important factor in the look of a pot is its height.
A few years ago I made the acquaintance of dwarf pots, or
in the large sizes what may be called deep pans, and I have
found them to be such an improvement on the old, taller
ones that now I invariably use them. Another little detail
that counts for something is the form of support. Last
winter I used a wire arrangement made by Allwood Brothers.
It was originally intended for Carnations, but it is equally
good for tulips. It takes the form of a wire circle supported
on a central stick, and it is very easily and quickly put off
and on, and looks neater than sticks and raphia.

CHAPTER XVII

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR

From questions which are frequently asked, I think that I
cannot be too simple or explicit in explaining the details
necessary or conducive to success in the open. As the
results which I attain at Whitewell are certainly very

72 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

satisfactory, I have decided to explain the methods which
are practised here, mentioning as occasion requires diver-
gencies which in certain other circumstances may be found
useful.

My soil is on the stiff side, and when it is damp weather
it is what old James Green used to call "loving stuff."
" Because it so sticks," he used to say. Many a time when he
has finished "puning" a post, he has had a good shovelful
on each boot. Hence my aim has constantly been to make
it more porous and not so " loving." To do this I have
incorporated, at various times, dead leaves, strawy cow
manure, peat-moss litter broken up fine, and last, but far
from being the least important, I have topdressed with
slacked lime at the rate of about a ton and a half of lime to
an acre. The longer I garden, the more do I believe in lime.
It is the fairy godmother for most soils. It makes heavy
soil lighter, and light soil more retentive. It is the key of
nature's store cupboard. It sweetens the sourest and most in-
fested of soils. To tulips lime seems peculiarly welcome, and
they show their liking for it in the heightened colour which
they develop. I have often expressed to Messrs. Clark and
Co.'s representative at the Spring Shows at Vincent Square
my surprise and admiration for the wonderful colouring of
their chalk-grown flowers from Dover.

The tulip is a very hardy bulb, and frost neyer hurts it as
long as it is safe below ground, and it would never hurt its
leaves and stem were they allowed to thaw gradually without
any sun falling upon them. For this reason I find, speaking
in a most general manner, that tulips which are planted in
higher ground which is not so subject to spring frosts, always
do better and get less " fire " in their foliage than those
grown on lower ground which is more exposed to them.
In certain years the contrast is very great, and almost has
to be seen to be believed. Sometimes with more favourable

PLATE VI
SCHOONOORD

^

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR 75

weather it does not seem to make much difference, but these
occasions are the exceptions.

PLANTING

Time of Planting. — If tuHp bulbs are kept in a dry, dark,
and fairly airy place, they will not show any inclination
to make roots until November, and but few will have
made any top growth. If they have, they are not much,
if any, the worse, and may be planted with the utmost
confidence if the young growth has not been bruised or
broken off. I endeavour to get all my best bulbs in the
ground between say the 20th of October and the 15th of
November. Lord Mayor's Day (November the 9th) has been
from " time immemorial," so to say, the ideal planting time
of the old fanciers. But I have so many bulbs to put in
that I am forced to extend the period, and one year I planted
up to the week before Christmas, and although the ground
was then just like mortar, as it had been excessively wet for
weeks before, I never had a better show than in the succeed-
ing spring. On this occasion they did not mind the condi-
tion of the soil in the very least, but I do not recommend
what I did then as a practice to be followed. Far better
wait a bit after wet weather until the soil is again in a fairly
dry condition. Different soils require different periods in
which to dry, so I can lay down no hard and fast rule how
soon one can plant after rain. It is all right when the soil
does not clog the spade or trowel. The foregoing directions
apply to lirst-size bulbs. If we are going to plant offsets,
say to increase our stock in some out-of-the-way nursery
bed, then I advise planting in September at the latest. The
little bulbs succeed much better if put in then, and many will
flower in the following spring which would not otherwise do
so. The very smallest little chips are not worth putting in

76 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

unless the variety is a valuable one, or one that for some
other reason we wish to increase as fast as possible. These
tiny offsets, if planted, must have a protection of leaf-mould
or "peat-moss," which need not be removed but can be just
turned over at lifting time, or of rushes, heather, dried bracken,
or similar covering, which must be taken off when an inch or
two of growth has been made.

Situation. — A warm, sunny, and sheltered position is the
ideal one to choose. Avoid, as far as possible, damp, low
places which are known to be exposed to spring frosts. Also
wind-swept situations, remembering that some of the Darwin
and Cottage tulips bear large flowers, and that many grow
from 2^ to 3 feet high. I have to plant anywhere to accom-
modate all my five hundred varieties, and I find if these ex-
tremes are avoided that there is little difference in the behaviour
of the bulbs in this place and that. In most gardens it is im-
possible to pick and choose as one might wish, so it is well to
remember how accommodating the tulip really is.

Soil. — Some cultivators say that on no account must
tulips " be planted two years in succession on the same spot."
This is too sweeping a statement. I would never do it if I
could help it ; but Hobson's choice has been mine on many
occasions, and 1 have never seen any great evil follow from
the practice. I should say, however, that the soil has always
been very deeply dug and generally a little lime or bone-meal
added before the "second time of asking." Without this
thorough digging, I would never think of trying it. Tulips do
best in a fairly stiff, well-drained soil, but any good garden
soil will grow them very well. The only thing is not to
expect such fine flowers from a sandy as from a heavier and
more retentive one. In extremely light and sandy places they
are benefited by a layer of cow manure and rotten leaves,
some 2 to 3 inches below the bulb, as this keeps the ends of
the roots cool; and also by a dressing of lime. If the soil is

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR -j-]

heavy, it is good to incorporate into it leaf-mould, soil from
an old cucumber bed, peat-moss, strawy rotten manure, and
lime. In both cases break up the soil to the depth of i8
inches ; tulips do not like stagnant moisture, and this helps
the drainage.

Depth to Plant. — The usual rule must be followed. In
light soils plant deeper than in heavy ones. I have measured
a good many of my own bulbs before they were taken up,
and I find 5 inches or ^\ inches from the bottom of the
bulb to the surface of the soil is our invariable rule for all
except the small species and varieties such as T. linifolia, T.
dasystemon, or T. pulchella. These should not be more than
3 inches deep. I have found stray bulbs of both larger and
smaller varieties which have flowered well at greater depths.

How to Plant. — Under this head I must mention first of all
the question as to whether the brown skins should be left on
or removed previous to committing the bulb to the ground.
Eighty or so years ago, the old florists advised the skin being
carefully taken ofif. I have put in thousands both ways, and
with certain possible exceptions I have never seen the least
difference in the results. This will be comforting to those
whose bulbs, like my own, generally lose their brown coats
before planting time, or who receive such bulbs from the
dealers. They are none the worse. It will, however, be
frequently noticed that when the outer skin has gone, the
white interior is bruised and often is slightly mouldy. Unless
this mould is very bad no notice need be taken, but in future
I am going to act on the cautious side, and dress them with
finely powdered flowers of sulphur. I am told this is a
splendid thing to prevent any decay or fungus, and I have
seen the results at Balls Park, Hertford, where the tulips in
the spring are always magnificent.

It is impossible to dogmatise upon the distances at which
the bulbs should be planted. Everything must depend on

78 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

the space to be covered and the amount of money that can
be afforded to buy bulbs to fill it. To have a brilliant effect,
they must be planted rather thickly. In good-sized beds the
largest Darwin and Cottage varieties may be planted 6 to
7 inches apart, between bulb and bulb and early singles about
4 and doubles about 5 inches apart. In clumps I would never
put fewer than six bulbs. Suppose the diameter of the circle
is II inches, I would put five at equal distances round it and
one in the middle. In beds the whole of the soil should
be well dug to the depth of i8 inches, and fresh soil
and leaf-mould incorporated when requisite. Similarly, I
would do the same as far as possible with clumps. The
individual tulips may be planted with a trowel, having marked
the places beforehand so as to get the holes equidistant.
Care should be taken to see that each bulb touches the bottom
and is not hung up. In large areas planting may be done
either by removing all the top soil to the approved depth and
then placing the tulips on the spots assigned to them, and
finally covering all up to the soil level ; or bulbs may be
"trenched in" — that is, they may be planted one row after
another, the soil of the first hollow being removed to the
opposite end of the bed to fill up the last row, then that from
the second will go into the first, that from the third into the
second, and so on. This is an excellent way to deal with
nursery beds, or when they are to be used for cutting from.
With my large quantity, I always plant in this way. My beds
are invariably 4 feet wide.

LEAVING BULBS IN THE GROUND

1 am quite certain that to get the best results tulips should
be lifted every year. I cannot sec what they can gain by
being left in the ground during the winter. The actual bulb
that flowered say this year is no longer in existence when the

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR 79

leaves and stem die down. It has finished its task weeks
before, and the future is provided for by the new bulb. I have
left tulips in the ground for three and even four years, and
have had fairly satisfactory flowers each succeeding spring ;
but then I have also bloomed bulbs for two years running
without lifting, and the second time they flowered they have
been very poor and the leaves badly affected with " fire."
This is a very common occurrence — in fact, I might, on the
majority of soils, call it the usual thing. Again, in a stiff soil
slugs worry the bulbs dreadfully. The stem decays, and very
likely is removed to tidy up, and the hole which it was in
never gets filled up. Down goes the slug, and at the bottom he
finds a toothsome tulip, to which he is very partial. Slugs
are very destructive in stiff land ; they are not so troublesome
in light soils, but even there my bulbs have suffered from
them. If the soil is very light, tulips may do quite well for
several years without being moved ; but in such cases they
are not so large as if they had been lifted and replanted. I
once bought a delightful old reddy-brown and yellow tulip
out of an old cottage garden at Hanmer. It had been there
between fifty and sixty years, and it was only moved three or
four times in all that long period. So the old lady said who
owned it, and who remembered it being planted. I had
about twenty bulbs the size of small hazel nuts when I first
took them home in my handkerchief. Four years afterwards
the normal bulb of Old Times (so I christened it) was as big
as a small hen's egg, and the blooms had trebled in size. To
sum up: my advice to everyone is "lift every year. It pays
for the trouble in the larger flowers, and in the more healthy
foliage."

LIFTING THE BULBS

Bulbs are ready to be lifted when the foliage has turned
yellow. I find it 3 little difficult to determine the precise cjay

8o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Appearances are sometimes deceptive, and I have gone to a
bed and found, although the leaves looked all dead, that the
rich, ruddy brown which is the sign of ripeness had not begun
to colour the bulb. However, tulips are such accommodating
things that it is practically the same whether a bulb is a little
under ripe, just right, or a little over ripe when it is lifted.
In the first case it is pale in colour, but its skin does not so
often split, and in the last case it is high coloured, but more
often than not the husk falls off or gets very badly cracked
before planting time comes round. I had for a long time
been puzzled to find out why this brown skin should be as
whole as it is on Dutch bulbs when on my own and on
other British grown ones it so very often splits and falls off.
But within the last few years I have had the opportunity of
growing some in very light soil of great depth — soil in fact
which in consistency resembles that of Holland. I have
found that tulips from this garden retain their skins just like
the imported ones. They do so even if they are over ripe
when they are got up. The obvious conclusion is that the
retention of the brown husk depends almost entirely on the
medium in which a bulb has been grown. On light, sandy
soils it does not split, and remains whole ; on heavier and
damper soils, it cracks and peels off. I must again say that
it does not make the least difference if the skin is off or on
when a tulip is planted. The only thing is one must be more
careful in packing and handling it when it is naked ; and
those dry husks which are very frequently used for surround-
ing them in bags should be avoided.

When a bulb is lifted, the soil should be shaken out of
the roots and the old stem taken off, care being taken in
both cases not to injure the base of the new bulb. Even
when a bulb has to be lifted when the foliage is green, I
recommend it being taken away. It should then be cut off
with a sharp knife, leaving two or three inches attached to

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR 8i

the base. Never put tulips in the drying boxes with the
green leaves still on them. Again, do not leave bulbs on the
beds exposed to hot sunshine, but get them put away in their
drying quarters as soon as practicable.

DRYING AND STORING

Any dry and airy, but not draughty place, where the direct
rays of the sun do not penetrate, does very well for drying
and storing. On no account should a damp and poorly
ventilated room be chosen. A good loft or shed, or an un-
used bedroom is excellent. If many bulbs have to be pro-
vided for, it is convenient to use wooden trays made like those
made for potato "sets," with long legs at each corner to
allow a free passage of air between each when they are piled
one on the other. They may be made any convenient size,
say 4 feet by 3 feet 6 inches, with supports 7^ inches high,
which is what I happen to use, or they may be a little
narrower, which I am disposed to recommend when there is
only one man available to move them about. When the
roots have become quite dry, and come easily away from the
base without injuring the outer skin in any way, the bulbs
may be " cleaned " and the offsets taken cfF. They may then
be put away till planting time, either where they were dried
or in any similar dry and airy place. They do all right in
paper bags if there are not more than a dozen or two of a
sort, but they must be perfectly dry before they are put in.
I like bags because it keeps them in darkness, for I have come
to the conclusion that if they are stored where they get no
light that leaf growth does not begin so soon. I emphasize
this, because bulbs are so much easier to handle and so much
more convenient to plant when there is no green sprout to
be careful about.

Early tulips in my part of the world are generally ready

F

82 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

to be lifted in normal years in the last week of June or first
week in July, then the Cottage and Darwins follow. I believe
the old Midland and North Country tulip men, who were and
still are wonderful creatures of habit, say the second week in
July for their florist varieties.

MANURING

Tulips like a good but not over rich rooting medium. I
make no difference between them and daffodils in my pre-
paration of the soil. Double digging to let air in is my sheet
anchor. I have already referred to lime. I use a good
amount, and give the ground a good dusting every two years
and then fork it in. It should look like a scattering of snow
when it is put on. This recipe is a little vague, but mathema-
tically inclined gardeners may reduce it to greater exactitude
by remembering that i| tons per acre is the dressing I recom-
mend. Raw bone-meal is my second stand-by. I use about
2 cwt. to the quarter acre, and apply it every second year, and
as a rule alternately with the lime. Every fourth and fifth
year neither bone nor lime is used. The ground is just dug,
and nothing is added. The finer bone is ground, the more
quickly does it act; hence I invariably get it "fine." To
the uninitiated I may say in passing that raw bones can be
had in several grades of coarseness or fineness ; "very fine"
or " fine " are what should be used, and I like " raw " better
than "boiled." There is more goodness left in, although it
may not be quite so quick in its action.

PROTECTION FOR TULIPS

Tulips are perfectly hardy. I have tried protecting the
beds, and I have left them unprotected. In an ordinary
season I have failed to see any difference at flowering time

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR 83

between those covered and those left uncovered. When, how-
ever, I plant very late in the season I always keep a sharp
look-out for any signs of frost, and at the least indication I
cover them with branches of heather loosely laid on, as the
bulbs must not be frozen before they have made roots. Last
year and the year before, I used, instead of heather, peat-
moss fibre made fine, but not into dust. I buy what is used
in the Canaries for packing tomatoes for exportation. It
comes in large bales, and is easily broken up by rubbing be-
tween the hands. I put a layer i to i| inches thick on the beds
or clumps on a still day ; then to keep it from blowing about
I just cover it with soil, and damp the top with the watering
can. In winter, when it is always moist, wind does not affect it.
When peat is used I never remove it, and it gets incorpo-
rated into the soil at lifting-up time. Heather, or any similar
covering, I take away when about two inches of growth have
been made. The show or florist tulips must be covered
some time before their blooming, and the covering must re-
main in position until the flowers have past. This matter is
explained, together with certain other details of culture, under
the head of "The Florist Tulip" (Chapter XV). Taking a
wrinkle from this procedure, I have in most years arranged
to protect some of my Darwin beds with a stout wooden
frame with movable " wrappering " [i.e. coarse material such
as is used for making rough aprons or for putting over furni-
ture when sent by rail). It is so fixed that it can be partly
taken off on dull days or when I want to see the flowers. This
lengthens the blooming period, and might be worth the con-
sideration of those who grow large collections and who wish
to have flowers for as long a period as possible. If a covering
of any description is used, it must be removed entirely as soon
as the blooms have faded.

84 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

GROWING TULIPS IN GRASS

I have had considerable experience with tulips in grass in
our churchyard, and I cannot say that they are a success.
If good bulbs are planted one autumn, they will flower excel-
lently the following spring, and a few will do so again a
second or possibly a third year ; after that they go blind.
They only seem to have strength to produce the one big leaf
which is the sure herald of " no flower." Very occasionally
a stray flower appears, and that is all. In 1912 I was surprised
to see quite a large number of blooms, and the idea at once
occurred that it was the result of the phenomenal summer of
191 1. Possibly it was, and if so the further thought occurs,
does it not throw some light on the finding of new Neotulips
(page 20) every now and again at St. Jean, Bologna, and
elsewhere, and then their mysterious disappearance ? All I
can confidently says of tulips in grass is that natural species
such as T. sylvestris appear to do better than garden hybrids.
For planting I strongly advise the use of Barr's bulb planter.
It makes a hole of any required depth, and in doing so lifts
a round bit of sod out of the ground. It is worth while to
make the hole six inches deep, then put two inches of light,
rich soil, with some bone-meal incorporated with it, at the
bottom ; on this place the bulb firmly, then knock away
part of the core previously removed, and lastly place the
round bit of grass on the top. If the operation is neatly
carried out, there will be no traces of disturbance of the soil
after the first shower or two of rain.

FALLING PETALS

Some one should go round all the tulips every morning
when the blooms are fading, and pick off all the petals that
have fallen on the foliage, and all from the ground. It is

CULTURE IN THE OPEN AIR 85

surprising how soon a petal will set up decay if it is allowed
to remain on the leaves, especially in damp, hot weather. As
I have stated elsewhere it is well to keep the foliage as green
as possible for as long a time as we can, because on this
depends the welfare of the new bulb. In some gardens the
beds in which late flowering varieties have bloomed are wanted
immediately for refilling with other things whilst the plants
are still in full leaf. If the bulbs are carefully lifted without
injury to either the roots or the leaves and at once put in
somewhere " by the heels " to dry off, it is astonishing how
little they suffer from the operation.

"FIRE"

This is the decay which so frequently appears about
flowering time or a little before. A good cultivator will keep
a look-out for its appearance, and cut out all affected bits.
It is essential to examine the plants frequently, as unfortu-
nately it spreads quickly and soon disfigures the plants and
weakens the new bulb on which the flowers of next season
depend.

SUMMARY OF THE MOST IMPORTANT POINTS

Take up all bulbs every year. Never plant two years in
the same ground, unless obliged to do so. Plant early in
November. Store bulbs in a dark, dry, and airy place.
Never put bulbs away to dry in boxes with their leaves still
attached. Watch continuously for any appearance of "lire,"
and at once cut out all affected bits. Plant small offsets
or side bulbs in September, and protect them from frost.
Remember tulips do not like stagnant moisture, nor do they
succeed so well in damp, low positions as on higher and
drier ground.

86 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

CHAPTER XVIII

TULIP COiMBINATIONS

I HAVE from time to time jotted down pleasing combinations
of two colours. In some cases the colours contrast and in
others they blend. They may be useful as suggestions. It
will be noticed that all the varieties in this list are either
Cottage (C.) or Darwins (D.).

1. Suzon, D.y flesh pink, and Prince Maurits, D., medium

purple.

2. Rose Beauty, C, rose-red (30 inches), and Morales, D.,

deep purple.

3. Ada, C, white with mauve inside, and Mrs. Moon, C,

tall, yellow.

4. Ada, C, white with mauve inside, and Melicette, D., lilac-

mauve.

5. Prince of the Netherlands, D., and La Tristesse, D.

6. Mr. Farncombe Sanders, D., and Suson, D.

7. Suzon, D., and Bleu Aimable, D., heliotrope.

8. Sophrosytie, D., rosy-pink edged blush, and Paul Baudry,

C, browny-red.

9. Walter T. Ware, C, very deep yellow, and La Tulipe

Noire, D., nearly black.

10. Morales, D., and Mrs. J. Robertson, C, rich yellow.

11. Inglescombe Yellow, C, canary-yellow, and Norham

Beauty, C, curious grey.

12. Hippolyte, D., deep mauve, and Moonlight, C, pale

yellow.

13. The President, C, pointed orange, and Gertrude, C,

palest primrose.

14. Louis XIV, C, deep purple edged golden-brown, and

Goudvink, C, dark tortoiseshcll-brown.

TULIP COMBINATIONS 87

15. Flava, C.y tall, pale yellow, and Mrs. Kerriil, C, blend of

amber and light rose, dwarf.

16. Morales, D., and Tara, D., rich ruby-red.

17. Rosetta, C, soft rose, dwarf, and Grand Monarque, D.,

plum-purple, tall.

18. Flamingo, D., tall, soft pink, and Ellen Willmott, C, tall,

pale yellow, pointed flower,

19. Zuhi, D., tall, blackish-purple, and The Bishop, D., blue-

purple ; not so tall.

20. Salomon, C, pale heliotrope, and Beauty of Bath, C, soft

pale mauve and yellow.

21. Orange King, C, orange-red, and Mahony, C, deep

orange and brown.

22. Lord Byron, C, early carmine-red, and Moonlight, C,

early long, pale yellow.

23. The Bishop, D., blue-purple, and Solfatare, C, tall, pale

canary, long flower.

24. Nigrette, C, dark red-brown with pale tips to petals, and

Clara Butt, D., pink.

25. The Bishop, D., and Clara Butt, D.

26. Eric, C, chestnut-brown, and Madame Bosboom Toussaint,

D., rose.

27. Orion, D., bright red, and Mahony. C., deep orange and

brown.

28. King Harold, D., maroon, and Medusa, D., salmon-red.

29. The President, C, orange, and Night, D., very dark,

nearly black.

30. Mrs. Moon, C, yellow, and Erguste, D., mauve.

31. Professor Rauwenhof D., rosy-red, and La Tulipe

Noire, D.

32. La foyeuse, C, pinky-mauve, and Frans Hals, D., reddish-

purple.

33. Isis, D., tall bright red, and Walter T. Ware, C, deep

yellow.

88 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

34. Pompadour^ C, dwarf, rich crimson, and L Imiocence, C.,

pure white.

35. Sir Harry ^ C, mauve-pink, and Mrs. Keightley, C, pale

yellow.

36. Cassandra, C, rose, rather dwarf, and Solfatare, C, pale

tall, yellow.

MORE GENERAL SUGGESTIONS ABOUT
COTTAGE AND DARWIN TULIPS

1. A good mixture of mauve, heliotrope, and grey Darwins,
with just a few dark ones amongst them. This makes a very
popular bed. I prefer them not to be all the same height, and
to look its best it ought to be so placed that there will be a
dark background. As typical of what I mean, I would suggest
such varieties as Electra, Erguste, Euterpe, Gudin, Dream,
Rev. H. Ewbank, Nora Ware, Madame Virnot, Mauve Clair,
with just one or two of varieties like Morales, Jubilee, and
Velvet King dotted here and there.

2. A varied assortment of yellows (Cottage).

3. Pale mauve Darwins and pink and rosy-edged ones,
such as Antony Roozen and Edmee with a few of a paler
shade such as Suzon. Dark purples should also be included,
but used very sparingly.

EARLY VARIETIES

The following make good combinations. They are given
as examples, since it is very easy to add others from lists, as
in most cases the height and time of flowering are stated.

1. Chrysolora and Dusart.

2. White Hawk and Artis.

3. Van der Neer and Ophir d'Or.

4- Prince of Austria and Chrysolora.

PLATE VII

SIR HARRY

SOLFATARE

TULIPS WITH OTHER PLANTS 91

5. Duchess of Parma and Fabiola.

6. Grace Darling and Golden Queen.

7. Fred Moore and Yellow Pottebakker.

8. President Lincoln and Chrysolora.

9. Hector and Princess H61ene.

10. Brunhilde and Vermilion Brilliant.

11. President Lincoln and Primrose Queen.

12. Prince of Austria and President Lincoln.

13. A mass of Le Reve by itself.

14. A mass of Couleur Cardinal.

15. A bed of Prince of Austria.

CHAPTER XIX

TULIPS WITH OTHER PLANTS

To be seen at its best, the tulip must be associated
with congenial companions. There is something about the
flower which makes it demand suitable surroundings. Un-
knowingly, and because circumstances have obliged me to
do so, I have done just what it wants ; and "although I says
it who shouldn't " I never get such satisfaction anywhere from
contemplating this Eastern denizen of our gardens as I do
from my own plants. Again and again the remark is passed
as I take my many visitors round, " However did you think
of that lovely combination ? " or *' That was a bold thing to
do : / would never have dared to do it, but how well it looks ! "
This latter observation was a propos of big blocks (8 or lo
feet by 4) of such tulips as City of Haarlem, Orion, Mr.
Farncombe Sanders, and Prince of the Netherlands planted
alternately, with equal-sized masses of very dark purples like
Velvet King, Frans Hals, Giant, Jubilee, and Morales. It
certainly was most effective as one came upon it all at once

92 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

round a tall, thick, and naturally grown hedge of Cupressus
Laivsoniana. I used to like it myself, and its sudden emer-
gence into view always gave me intense pleasure. I want
readers to notice the size of these clumps, for if any flower
looks its best in a big mass it is the tulip. A second thing
that I would call attention to is my seemingly casual mention
of a hedge. Now my garden is all hedges or narrow planta-
tions of evergreen trees and shrubs. It is broken up into
little bits, and one cannot see anything like all of it at once.
This is just the thing for tulips. It gives on all sides a dark
tall background, against which they show to great advantage.
" Your tulips, Mr. Jacob, must look well ; you have got such
good backgrounds all over your garden." I would advise
anyone who has a similar vacant position, say a holly or a
yew hedge on a border with a wall of deep green foliage at
its back, to try planting some in front. A third consideration is
the colour blending of the diflferent varieties. Almost all my
most effective and telling combinations come about by pure
chance. To tuck away in comfortable quarters all my five
hundred varieties, I have almost to plant them anywhere.
There are lots of strange bedfellows in theory, but somehow
they look "all right" when the blooming season comes round.

I adduce three things from my personal experience as
above narrated. First, tulips look best in big quantities.
Second, their having a good background to show them up
makes a tremendous difference. Third, so long as there are
enough different sorts, one should not be needlessly particular
how they are grouped together. These seem to me the three
most important things to remember in assigning tulips their
quarters in a garden ; and the success of such things as colour
schemes in tulip gardens and of bedding arrangements depends
in a great measure upon their being taken into account.

From these general considerations let me now give two
illustrations of my meaning in detail. Backgrounds: these

TULIPS WITH OTHER PLANTS 93

need not necessarily be dark. By a purely fortuitous cir-
cumstance, I found I had a long narrow mixed bed of pink
and pale rose and mauve Darwins, with just a few darker
reds and purples, against a wall covered with a deep rosy-
purple Aubrietia. The effect was grand.

Another suggestion is to try and combine tulips with
flowering shrubs. An American lady, Mrs. Francis King, who
is well known in her own country as an authority on colour,
and who honours me with letters from time to time, has
published in The Garden Magazine of New York a most
stimulating paper on "Colour Harmonies in the Spring
Garden" (May 1912). Two extracts show what I mean:
"Below and among these spiraeas (5. Tliunbergii) are the
great tulip La Merveille, orange-scarlet, and the old double
Count of Leicester in tawny-orange shades, and before the
tulips lie low masses of the Munstead Primrose." And again :
" As for tulips, the loveliest combinations under lilacs or
immediately before them, would surely ensue, if groups of
tulips Fanny, Carl Becker, Giant, and Koningin Emma were
planted in such spots." Similarly, grey stone and red brick
walls may be utilised if only ordinary care is taken about
what is put in front.

BEDDING

Give me, I say, a huge mass of one single variety alone —
I don't mind which one so long as there is enough of it.
This is my ideal. Any carpet plant detracts somewhat from
my ideas of the fitness of things. The tulip must stand alone.
It is best alone. It is a Napoleon in its ascendancy. It is a
Solomon in its magnificence. It is a Junius in its unsolved
problems of many-sided interests. Somehow its spirit com-
mands solitude. But not to all. A tulip is only a tulip to
some. I am sorry, but I cannot help it — I cannot see all that
that exquisite writer Forbes Watson (^Flowers and Gardens)

94 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

saw in the golden crocus or the pale green leaf of the narcis-
sus ; why should I expect everyone to see with me all that I
can see in the tulip ? Most of us have our favourite flowers
and plants — more than one perchance, as there are more
months in the year than one. What to me were all the flowers
in the gigantic International Exhibition (Chelsea, 1912) com-
pared to those tulip groups that an unfeeling and untulip exe-
cutive had banished to the Ultima Thule of the Exhibition ! I
have digressed enough. I must return to the practical problem
of "Allowed a carpet is wanted, what had it better be made of?"
or "If there must be a different edging, what should it be ? "
Plants like Ellen Willmott, Indigo Queen, or Queen Victoria,
Myosotis (Forget-me-not), the double white Arabis ; some of
the dwarf phloxes ; many of the aubrietias, both pale and dark ;
primroses and polyanthuses in variety ; grey-leaved plants
like Cerastium tomentosum, Festuca glauca, or Stachys lanata,
possibly cut down Santolina incana ; wallflowers from the
softest yellow to the deepest crimson, and their near relation
Erysimun Allionii ; and violas such as Maggie Mott, are all
eminently suitable for one or other of these purposes. The
following are a few specimens of how such combinations may
be made : —

1. Deep orange and yellow polyanthus-primroses with dot

plants of Fred Moore tulip.

2. Indigo Queen Forget-me-not with Bouton d'Or,

3. ""Lavender" Aubrietia with the Darwin Erguste.

4. Cerastiiun tomentosum with Morales (Darwin).

5. A lavender phlox (divaricata) with Fanny (Darwin).

6. Queen Victoria Forget-me-not with Prince of Austria,

7. An edging of Maggie Mott viola round a bed of Frans

Hals.

8. Double Arabis with Hector (early) here and there.

9. Mixed polyanthus of all shades of red and yellow with

a fair quantity of mixed, late Darwin tulips.

TULIPS WITH OTHER PLANTS 95

10. Madame de Graaff daffodil and Inglescombe Yellow

tulip, planted alternately or in rows, in large beds,
being careful that they are broadside on to the point
of view usually seen. This double planting is a
dodge I can strongly recommend. The same bit of
ground gives two shows, and one is over before the
other comes on.

11. The orange wallflower-looking Erysimum with Walter

T. Ware tulip.

12. A centre of a late Cottage such as Pride of Inglescombe

with a broad edging of double Arabis.

13. Vermilion Brilliant tulips with an edging of mealy

leaved auriculas such as Celtic King.

14. Lines of wallflowers with higher tulips behind or

among them.
The combinations are innumerable. It is only necessary
to say by way of warning that the carpet plants should very
often be planted earlier than it is necessary to plant the tulips.
These can easily be put in with a small trowel or a blunt
dibbler later on. Personally I do not like too many tulips in
any bed which is carpeted with another plant. There should
be the low growing mass of colour just relieved with dots
here and there of taller growing tulips. When these are a
central mass inside a band of something else, they may be put
in much closer. Then the effect comes from a solid mass of
colour, A novel idea, which I believe is very effective when
it is carried out with discretion, is to put isolated single bulbs
of large-flowered Cottage or Darwins in herbaceous borders.
When May-flowering tulips are at their best there is often
rather a paucity of hardy flowers, and these bits of brightness
relieve the green and bridge over the awkward time. I have
referred in another place to clumps. I would always have
some in an herbaceous border ; there are tall-growing tulips
for the more backward positions and lower-growing ones for

96 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

the front, and as to colour the choice is very wide. The
delicate young green leaves of the other inhabitants set off
the bright tulips to perfection.

With regard to a mixed bed of tulips, one desideratum is
that the plants should not all be the same height. It is a com-
paratively small detail, but it is these little things that "just
make the difference."

Quite recently a new race of branching tulips has been
introduced by M. Bony, the best known one being Mons. S.
Mottet, a long white flower which flushes with age. When
these are to be had in several colours, Ihey will become very
popular for bedding or massing, as in my opinion it will be a
distinct gain to get more flowers at different heights either all
of the same shade from employing one variety, or of different
shades if there are several. I never had the luck until this
spring to see what a good lot of these branching tulips was
like in a bed by themselves. I may say I was very much
impressed. They are as easy to manage, and as hardy as
any others. All they require is extra rich ground in which
to grow.

CHAPTER XX

PROPAGATION AND NEW VARIETIES

All the different varieties of tulips may be increased by
offsets, which in the majority of instances are produced in
great quantities. There are, however, certain exceptions:
for example, there are species such as T. Greigiiy florist
tulips such as Mabel, and certain garden varieties such as
Ada (Albion), which give very few or none. Where no off-
sets are produced, the only thing to do is to sow seed if we
wish to work up a stock. In the case of most of the natural
species, the result is satisfactory, as I believe they generally

PROPAGATION: VARIETIES 97

breed true to type, but in all other cases this is of no use, as
the seedlings never resemble their parents. All that can be
done then is to patiently wait for ofifsets.

New varieties originate either from seed or from "sports."
Garden and florist tulips, even if they are self-fertilised, usually
throw an infinite number of new varieties, demonstrating
clearly the hybrid origin of all of them. If deliberate crosses
are made, definite results may be aimed at, and, from what
information I have been able to gather, the progeny will tend
to show the characteristics that are sought for. Sporting
does not refer to the extraordinary change from a self to a
striped flower, which is the natural thing to expect in the
case of all breeders or mother tulips (see page i8) ; but to
the sudden change of colour or colours which take place in
the tulip more perhaps than in any other flower, and which
can possibly only be matched by the marvellous diversity
which so many members of the fern tribe exhibit — for example,
the common Hart's Tongue {Scolopendrium vulgare) or the
Polypody {Polypodiuvi vulgare). To take one or two examples
— from the early tulip La Reine, there have come Hermann
Schlegel, White Hawk, Rosy Hawk, and Flamingo ; from
White Pottebakker, both Stanley and Grace Darlmg ; and
from Joost van Vondel, the lovely white Lady Boreel (formerly
called White Joost van Vondel). I have had examples of this
sporting in my own garden ; probably the most striking being
a sport of Golden Crown, which has given me a glorious,
almost " all red," tulip. These sports seem for the most part
to be permanent, and their offsets to come true.

TREATMENT OF OFFSETS

These are best sorted into sizes, and the smallest should
be planted first. If August is not too hot and dry I plant
them then ; but if it is, I wait until September, and not later.

G

98 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

They should be put about two inches deep, not more. I

cover the beds with an inch
of peat-moss Htter in Novem-
ber, and beyond seeing that
this is secured (see page 83)
so that it does not blow about,
they get little or no attention
until the following spring.
They are then lifted in the
usual manner, and thence-
forward they follow the usual
routine practised with the
larger bulbs. It will be found
that these small bulbs are very
liable to produce "droppers"
— that is, a bud develops in a
peculiar manner, and, in place
of making an ordinary little
bulb at the side of the large
one, a long tube is formed
which descends downwards
from 2 to 4 inches below the
parent, and then at its ex-
tremity forms a small bulb.
Droppers are easily known
by their hard skin, and should
be very carefully looked for
when lifting is in progress.
Certain tulips display this ten-
dency more than others, eg.
T. Kanfmanniana and Ellen

Fig. r — " Dropper ' bulb ; the new bulb .itmi ^a c r u ii -i

. , , ' ., , . . <■ . , willmott. Some form bulbils

IS placed at the bottom of a tube or

sheath prolonged downwards. in the angle between the stem

(From the GartUners' Chronicle.) and the loWCr IcaVeS, e.g. MrS.

PROPAGATION: VARIETIES 99

Moon and La Tristesse. Both droppers and bulbils may
be treated exactly like ordinary bulbs. The latter may
be taken off when the leaves have died and the bulbs are
being lifted.

SEED SAVING AND SOWING

To produce a good crop of seed, a sunny and dr\' early
summer is necessary. In 191 1 I had any quantity of seeds
in my own garden, and in one or two beds which I did not
lift in the autumn, I found it had sown itself, as parts were
thick wuth tiny seedlings in the following May. To get the
best out of the plants, seed-bearers should be planted in beds
by themselves in rather richer soil than usual, and in an airy
and sunny position. If a glass light can be placed over them
just before the flowers open, and free circulation of air left
at the ends and sides, it wnll be found very helpful, and in
rainy and damp seasons probably mean the difference
between a crop and no crop. Seed-bearers may also be
grown in pots w'here a cold greenhouse is available. For
this purpose use y-inch or 8-inch pots, and put three bulbs
in a pot. Make the soil rich and porous, and grow them the
whole time without any heat and with abundance of air. All
that is necessary is just to exclude frost.

The pod is ready to gather when the edges of the seeds
show plainly through the outer covering, and when the top
just begins to open. The seeds are best kept in the pods
until they are wanted for sowing, and if the pods are cut
with about a foot of stem they may be stood in vases like
flowers.

Seed may be sown either in autumn or spring. As far as
I can judge, better results are obtained from September or
October sowings than from those made in February.

If sown in the open air, the seed should be put about an

100 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

inch deep, and it should be topdressed with leaf-mould or
peat-moss ; if in boxes or pans, the soil should be light and
very well drained, and the seed just covered. It is best to
keep the pans in cold frames. The seeds germinate in March
and April, and for their first year their growth has a similar
appearance to young onions. The solitary, slender, and
cylindrical leaf dies down in June. The little bulbs should
then be shaken out, stored in sand, and replanted in deep
boxes or pans (6 to 8 inches) early in autumn again, keeping
them in cold frames as before. The second season you get a
bulb and a dropper. These must both be kept very carefully
together when lifted, or else one of the two should be de-
stroyed— the object of course being to avoid confusion in the
new sorts. After this the little seedlings may be treated like
offsets, and taken up each year until they flower. With re-
gard to the actual operation of fertilising : the first thing is
to pull off the anthers of the flower that is chosen as the seed
parent before it opens, and at once cover the stigma with a
little cotton wool. Pollinate as soon as it is found that the
stigma is sticky. When it has "taken," the surface will begin
to turn purple in a few hours, and when this happens no
further protection is necessary, but at first the cotton wool
must be replaced.

As to what crosses to make, 1 fear I can give no advice.
Mr. A. D. Hall says that, as far as the florist type is con-
cerned, those who wish to breed good flowers which will be
advances on the present varieties must be careful not to
select blooms of a poor shape or with foul bases. They
must also try to get as steady markers as possible. A great
desideratum is a race that will yield flowers which come con-
sistently good, and not such as only give one fine one in fifty.
Yellow grounds are recessives to white, therefore yellow
grounds are pure, and throw only yellows when mated
together. Hence white ground crosses may throw yellows

PLATE VIII

EUTERPE

FRANS HALS

^

r-\.^:rW^K^

I:

DISEASES 103

if both parents are impure whites. Yellow crossed with
pure white gives white ; yellow crossed with impure white
gives half and half.

With regard to garden varieties and natural species, I
cannot help feeling that there is a great unknown land
before the careful systematic hybridiser, which so far has
hardly been visited. Here and there work has been done
in this direction, but I cannot hear of any results being as
yet available for general information. For those who wish
to embark upon an interesting and novel branch of gardening,
I would suggest their taking up the cross fertilisation of these
two types. T. Greigii alba, a probable natural hybrid between
T. Greigii and T. Kaufmanniana ; T. elegatis, a possible
hybrid between T. acuminata and T. suaveolens ; and T. retro-
fiextty another suggested hybrid between T. acuminata and
T. Gesneriana, give us glimpses of what explorers of the new,
almost untrodden country of cross-fertilised tulips may
find.

CHAPTER XXI

DISEASES

There are three fungous diseases to which the tulip is
subject.

{First.) — Fire. This a very common ailment, and there
are probably few gardens where traces of it may not be
found in any year. Luckily it is not what may be called
dangerous. Even in very bad attacks, when the foliage is
completely destroyed, the bulbs themselves remain unafiFected.
All that happens is that they do not attain their full growth,
as the leaves are prevented from elaborating the food. The
decay is caused by a fungus named Botrytis galanthina. As a

104 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

rule, it does not make its appearance until the leaves are well
above the ground. With me it seldom is to be seen until
about the time the buds are well developed ; whether up to
then the outer skin of the leaves and stem is harder, or
whether it is that there are no spores blowing about ready to
do the mischief,^ I cannot say. I only know that it is shortly
before and at the flowering season that I must keep the
sharpest look-out for the small, greyish-looking spots and
patches which I know are the beginning of the evil. Some
of my men go round periodically with a knife and scissors,
and cut out or cut off every bit that they can see. In a dry
season this easily keeps it in check, for, to begin with, very
little appears, and secondly, it does not spread quickly. But
I know only too well what a difference two or three wet
days make ; the disease spreads like magic, and if draggly
weather continues it is apt to become master, and, in beds
where it is bad, entirely wither up the leaves. Hail, cold
winds, and hot burning sun on the dewdrops or the rain-
drops on the flowers or foliage, are the accessories before
the sad fact of the presence of this irritating visitor is
apparent. As a preventive I would suggest spraying the
developing leaves once or twice with the Wye Bordeaux
Mi.xture (copper sulphate, slacked lime, treacle and water),
and the constant cutting out of all infected spots as soon as
they appear. I think the author of the Dutch Gardener, 1703,
(see page 4) rather overstepped the mark when he wrote,
"The Tulip is subject unto a dangerous Canker which must
be met in time with a curious Eye and Hand," and called
it a " Mortal enemy." It is bad ; but if we have a " curious
eye and hand," and use the two in conjunction, I do
not think we have anything to fear from this unwelcome
fungus,

* Mr. Polman Mooy of Haarlem maintains that it is possible to eliminate " fire "
by consistently destroying every bit of fungus for several years together.

DISEASES 105

[Second.) — A more serious disease is that caused by Botjy-
tis parasitica. It attacks the young foHage, and also the
bulbs. It is known by its producing little black round things
that vary in size from a pin's head to a small pea. It also
affects the dried or drying foliage and the seeds and seed
pods. I have had it among bulbs boxed up for forcing, and
I am inclined to think it was then due to the covering material,
which was heather, and which had been lying in a close heap
all the previous summer after having been used for covering
the year before. For this reason I am very particular wha/
material I put over the boxes and pots, and advocate it
possible the use of darkened cold frames with plenty of air
in preference to any other covering. Want of air and damp
are certainly two contributory causes to the appearance of
this pest. Practically, whenever these little black peas or
pinheads are seen, it is necessary to burn everything that
they are on, and, if it is in bulbs in the open beds, remove
the soil all round the diseased ones, or, if they are in boxes or
pots, put it where it will not be used again. I would on no
account put away in boxes to dry bulbs with the green foliage
attached to them. The heat and damp generated by their
decay are very conducive to disease obtaining a foothold.

{Third.) — The worst disease by far is Sclerotium tuli-
parum. This fungus infests the soil, and is said to destroy in
a short time whole patches of bulbs. I am very thankful to
say I have had no experience of it whatever in my own
garden, nor have I ever seen it anywhere else. I am told
that the best thing to do to keep it away is never to plant
tulips in beds where diseased begonias, irises, or tulips have
been cultivated in previous years.

Danger from Living Things. — Rats, mice, slugs, and wire-
worms are all of them very fond of tulip bulbs. A constant
watch, therefore, must be kept lest they begin their depreda-
tions without our being aware of it. I find virus (I use The

io6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Liverpool Virus) an excellent remedy for mice and rats when
I apply it according to the directions received when pur-
chasing. Green fly is very partial to the young leaves under
glass. As prevention is better than cure, I advise fumigating
from time to time with a nicotine insecticide. The leaves
suffer very much in appearance if this simple precaution is
neglected. Be careful not to plant in virgin loam unless it
is certain there are no wire-worms in it. They are almost
invariably to be found in freshly cut sod.

CHAPTER XXII

SELECTION OF VARIETIES

I AM not sure that I have not left the most difficult chapter
until the last. In imagination it seemed the easiest thing in
the world to jot down the best flowers for various purposes.
Directly, however, that I took out paper and pencil, and began
to make my lists, I realised how mistaken I had been. What
to leave out is the trouble, especially so with the selections
for "cuttmg"and for "out of doors." If ever the saying
that there are as good fish in the sea as ever came out of it
is true, it is of the tulips that might be included, but which
are not. " My favourites," as I have headed two sections, have
made it a little easier, but not much, so many appeal to me —
some in the bright sunshine, some in the clearer but less glaring
light before dusk, some for their historic associations, some
for their delicate tracery and refinement, some for their
barbaric splendour and gorgeous colouring, some for their
beauty of form, some for the wonderful markings of their
bases, and so on. No flower is more the creature of the
passing hour than the tulip. It is its moods and its instant
response to the uncertain play of light and shade that so

SELECTION OF VARIETIES 107

fascinates its devotees, be they the exacting florists, or the
more easily pleased "general public."

(A.) — For forcing and growing under glass for cutting —

First Earlies

Scarlet Due van Thol, earliest of

all.
Fred Moore.
La Reine.
Le Matelas.
Mon Tresor.

Prince of Austria.
Rose Gris-de-lin.
Vermilion Brilliant.
Yellow Prince.
White Hawk.

Couleur Cardinal.
Couronne d'Or (double).
Isabella (Cottage).
Le Reve.

Later Blooming

Murillo (double).

Salvator Rosa (semi-double).

White Swan (Cottage).

Later Still

Antony Roozen.

Clio or Bronze Queen (Cottage).

Bonders.

Euterpe.

Golden Crown (Cottage).

Jaune d'Oeuf (Cottage).

King Harold.

Margaret.

Mr. Farncombe Sanders.

Orange Beauty (Cottage).

(mostly Darwins)

Philippe de Comines.

Pride of Haarlem.

Rev. H. Ewbank.

Saes.

Sieraad van Flora.

White Queen.

William Copeland.

William Pitt.

Zanzibar.

Zulu.

(B.) — For pots —

Brunhilde.
Cerise Gris-de-lin.
Cottage Maid.
Duchess of Parma.

Early Single

Grace Darling.

Jenny (my special favourite ; very

sweet).
Keizerskroon.

io8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

La Remarquable.

Le Matelas.

Mon Tresor.

Potter.

President Lincoln (Queen of

Violets).
Prince de Ligny.
Prince of Austria (the best of all ;

sweet).

Princess Helene.
Queen of the Netherlands-
Rose luisante.
Stanley.
Van der Neer.
Vermilion Brilliant.
White Joost van Vondel (Lady
Boreel).

Early Double

Cochineal (semi-double).

Couronne d'Or.

Murillo.

Premier Gladstone.

Safrano.

Schoonoord (my great favourite).

Tournesol.
Vuurbaak.

Darwins

Ant. Roozen.

Baronne de la Tonnaye.

Bleu Aimable.

City of Haarlem.

Bonders.

Erguste.

Fontenelle.

Gudin.

King Harold.

Madame Bosboom Toussaint.

Melicette.

Morales.

Ouida.

Painted Lady.
Pride of Haarlem.
Professor Rauwenhof.
Rev. H. Ewbank.
Sieraad van Flora.
Suzon.
The Bishop.
Velvet King.
William Pitt.
Zanzibar.
Zulu.

(C.) — For cutting, grown out of doors. My favourites.
(Those with an asterisk are Darwins.)

Ada (Albion) when fully grown.

It looks dingy when opening.
Beauty of Bath.

Bouton d'Or.
Clara Butt.*
Didieri.

SELECTION OF VARIETIES

109

Didieri Alba.

Do Little.

Elegans Alba.

Ellen WillmotL

Erguste.*

Euterpe.*

Florizel.

Gertrude.

Gesneriana lutea pallida (Mrs.

Keightley).
Godet Parfait (Cottage).
Goldmine.
Goudvink,
Hammer Hales.
Isis.*

John Ruskin.
La Joyeuse.
La Merveille.
Leghorn Bonnet.
Louis XIV.
Loveliness.*

Marie.*
Melicette.*
Morales.*

Mrs. W. O. Wolseley.
Orange Beauty.
Orange King.
Picotee.

Pride of Liglescombe.
Retroflexa (very charming).
Royal Visit.
Salomon.
Solfatare.
Sophrosyne.*
The Bishop.*
The Fawn.
The President.
Toison d'Or.
Walter T. Ware.

Yolande (Duchess of Westmin-
ster).*

{D.) — For planting in the open in beds or clumps. " My
favourites." Many of these are included u?tder the previous
heading, I have thought it best to repeat them here to make it
easier for reference.

Couleur Cardinal.
Dusart.
Fire Flame.
Fred Moore
Hector.

Early Single

Maes.

Prince de Ligny.

Prince of Austria.

Scarlet Mammoth (mid-season).

N.B. — Scarlet Mammoth and Le Reve bloom between the early and late
varieties.

no PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Cottage

Andrew Hunter.

Avis Kennicott.

Carnation.

Cassandra.

Clio (Bronze Queen).

Fairy Queen.

Feu Ardent.

Gesneriana lutea.

Gesneriana major.

Goldfinder.

Goudvink.

Grenadier.

Hammer Hales.

Illuminator.

Inglescombe Yellow.

John Ruskin.

La Merveille.

Le Reve (mid-season).

Louis XIV.

Lucifer.

Marksman.

Mauriana.

Moonlight.

Mrs. Moon.

Mrs. W. O. Wolseley.

Orange King.

Pompadour.

Pride of Inglescombe.

Rose Beauty.

Salomon.

Scarlet Emperor.

Sir Harry.

Solfatare.

The President.

Walter T. Ware.

Zomerschoon.

Darwins

Ariadne.

Bleu Aimable.

City of Haarlem.

Cr^puscule.

Edmee.

Euterpe.

Faust.

Frans Hals.

Haarlem.

Isis.

Jubilee.

La 'Iristesse.

Madame Bosboom Toussaint.

Marie.

Mauve Clair.

Morales.

Mr. Farncombe Sanders.

Mrs. Potter Palmer.

Pride of Haarlem.

Prince of the Netherlands.

Professor Rauwenhof.

Suzon.

Tara.

The Bishop.

Victoire d'Oliviera.

Viking.

William Pitt.

Zanzibar.

Zulu.

SELECTION OF VARIETIES in

Species

T. Batalinii.
T. dasystemon.
T. Eichkri.
T. Fosteriana.
T. Kaufmanniana.

T. linifolia.

T. persica.

T. prcestans (Tubergen).

T. strangulata primulina.

T. sylvesiris.

(E.) — For grass.

As I have said elsewhere, few tuHps succeed well in grass.
T. sylvesiris seems to be the best of all. I know a Devon-
shire garden where it is quite established, but I am told it
does not often flower.

T. elegans.

T. sylvesiris.

(F.) — For rockeries.

All the Species, and especially the dwarf ones.

T. elegans. Pompadour.

Gloria Mundi (dwarf red and

yellow striped).
Mrs. W. O. Wolseley.

Rose Doree (curious blend of
orange and pink).

INDEX

Admiral van der Eyck, il
Agate, 17, 54, 55
Agatine, 17
Alkemade, 29
AUwood Brothers, 40
Amateur Florist's Guide, 60
Anvers, 12
Azen, II

Backgrounds, 88
Baguette, 17, 56
Baker, J. G., 8
Balls Park, 77
Barr & Sons, 64
Barr, Peter, 8, 32
Barr, P. Rudolf, 43
Base, 17
Beam, 17

Beds, tulips in, 88-93
Bennett-Poe, J. T., 30
Bentley, J. W., 60, 61, 64
Bibliography, 2
Bizarre, 17, 62
Bone-meal, 82
Bony, G., 34, 9^
Botrytis galantkina, 1 03
Botrytis parasitica, 105
Branching tulips, 34
Breeders, 18, 32, 62
Broken, 18
Busbequius, 2
Bybloemen, 18, 62

Carpet plants, 94
Chabert, 51
Chronology, 2
Clark, William, 7, 61

Clusius, Carolus, 3, 9
Coir screening, 62
Collegiums, 11, 16
Colour Chart, 43
Combinations of tulips, 86-91

with other plants, 91-93
Cordus, Valerius, 3
Cottage tulips, 18, 31

selections, 33
Cow manure, 82
Culture, bowls, 69

Darwin's, 68, 82, 83

Florist varieties, 54, 83

glass, culture under, 65

grass, 84

hanging baskets, 70

Parrots, 70

pots, 69

seedlings, 99

summary of, 85

Darwins, 8, 18, 39, 88

in pots, 40, 70

selections, 43
Das Lebeft der Tulpe, 8
Davy, 7
Diseases, 103
Divisions of tulips, 21
Doring, Edmund, 8
Dot-plants, tulips as, 94
Double tulips, early, 28
selections, 30

late, 47

selections, 48
Doubling, 29
Dragon-tulips, 19
Droppers, 8, 16, 98
"3 H

114

INDEX

Drying, 8 1

Dues, 19

Dutch Florist, 4, 1 7, 28

Gardemr, ^,17
Dutch tulips, 19

Early season, remarkable, 8
Early double tulips, 28

single tulips, 23
End of Mania, 12
English tulip and its history, the, 8, 55,

61
English tulips, 19

Falling petals, 84
Feathered, 19, 62
Fire. 19. 85, 103
First tulip pictured, 3

to flower in France, 3

England, 3

double tulip noted, 4

parrot noted, 4
Flamandes, 46
Flamed, 19, 62
Fid., 62
Flemish, 19

flora seu De Flonim Culttira, 4, 17
Florist's Companion, 6

Directory, 56

Guide, 7, 59
Florist tulips, 19, 54, 83

culture of, 61, 83

selections, 64
Fooles coates, 16, 54
Forcing, 65,69
Foul, 20
Founding of Royal National Tulip

Society, 7
Fr., 62

Gadeceau, E., 46

Gardeners Dictionary, extract about
properties of a tulip, 55
Universal /Calendar, 55
Gerard's Herbal, 3

Gesner, 3, 56
Glass culture, 65
Glenny, George, 59
Grass, tulips in, 84
flowering in, 19 12, 84

Hall, A. D., 60, 61, 100
Harmonies, tulip, 86, 93
Hartland, W. B., 8, 32
Herwart, J. H., 2
Histoire des Tulipes, 48
Hogg, Thomas, 7
Horner, Rev. F. D., 60
Hortus Floridus, 3, 9
Hudson, James, 6
Hybridising, 100

Illustrations : —

Beauty of Bath, 14

Carnation, 42

Dr. Hardy, Frontispiece

Euterpe, 102

Frans Hals, 102

Fred Moore, 58

Frontispiece of Le Floriste Franfois, 5

In het ootje, 1 1

Mr. Farncombe Sanders, 26

Mrs. Collier, Frontispiece

Praestans, 14

Prince of Austria, 58

Schoonoord, 74

Sir Harry, 90

Solfatare, 90
Introduction of
Europe, 2

tulips to Western

Jasp^e, 17

King, Mrs. Francis, 93
Krelage, E. H., & Son, 8, 39

La Couronnb imperiale, 29
Lale, 20

INDEX

"5

Late double Tulips, 47

selections, 48
Late flowering, 20
Leaving bulbs in ground, 78
Le Floriste Francois, 4, 16, 54
Le Mariage de ma Fille, 29
L'£cole du Jardenier flcuriste, 61
Levier, £.,51
Lifling bulbs, 79, 81
Lime, 72

Maddock, J., 6, 50, 56

Malo, C, 50

Mania, 3, 9, 16

Manuring, 82

Marquetine, 17

Marquetrine, 17, 20

Massing, 92, 93

May-flowering, 18, 20

Mice, 105

Miller, P., 50, 55

Miss Fanny Kemble, 7

Monstereul, de la Chesnee, 3, 54

Moore, Sir F. W., 57

Morillon, 16, 54

Morillony, 17

Mother-tulips, 20

Munting, Abr,, 1 1

Needham, C. W., 60, 62

Offsets, planting, 97
"Old Dutch" tulips, 32
Ootje, II
Open-air culture, 7 1

Parkinson, J., 3, 16, 54
Parisienne, 20, 31
Parrots, 16, 20, 48

selections, 49
Passseus, C, 3, 9
Peat-moss fibre, 83
Peters, W., 64
Plant supports, 40
Planting, 75
Plated, 20

Polyphemus, 7
Problems, 12
Propagation, 96
Properties, 5 3, 54

Quartering, 21, 33

Rats, 105
Rea, John, 4, 54
Rectified, 15
Kegel, A., 50
Rembrandts, 21. 22, 46

selections, 46
Revision of Tulipese, 8
Roses, 21, 62

Sautyn-Kluyt, W. p., II
Savoy, 21

Sclerotium tuliparum, 105
Seedlings, 99
Seed-sowing, 99
Selections : —

beds, 109

clumps, 109

cottage varieties, 33

cutting, 107, 108

Darwins, 43

double, 48

early double, 30

early single, 24

florist, 64

forcing, 107

grass. III

parrots, 49

pots, 107

rockeries, ill

species, 52
Semper Augustus, 9
Shawyer, G., 66, 67
Show, an early tulip, 6

at Cork, 32

at London, 1912, 61

era of local, 7
Situation, t6
Skin of bulb, 80

ii6

INDEX

Slater, J., 7, 8, 60

Slugs, 105

Society, establishment of National, 60

its constitution, 63
Soil, 72, 75
Solms-Laubach, 8, 51
Species, 8, 21, 50

selections, 52
Sporting of tulips, 97
Storing when out of ground, 81
Sulphur, T7

Summary of cultural points, 85
Sweet, R., 7, 59

Toiler, The, 4
Temple of Flora, 59
Thornton, 59

Time to plant, 75

Traits des Tulipes, 4

t' Samenspraecken, 3, 4, lO

Tulip, derivation of, 2 1

Tulip war, 7

Tu/ipes Plusi/lores, 21

Turkey, tulips in, 1 5

Van Kampen, 4

Van Oosten, 4

Van Tubergen, C G., 8, 45

Virus, Liverpool, 106

Vocabulary, 16

Wassener, N., 9
Watson, Forbes, 93
IVeizen und Tidpe, 8

THE END

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