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THE TWENTIETH CENTURY METHOD

GROWING BULBS

FOR

WINTER AND SPRING
BLOOMING

By

MAURICE FULD

PUBLISHED BY
THE HOME OF HEATHER
KNIGHT AND STRUCK COMPANY
ONE MADISON AVENUE
NEW YORE

7 ' -) =

Copyright, 1914
By MAURICE FULD

lias ae ay al

fd ls 9

Dedicated to my best friend,
who first inspired me with the love of flowers—
MY MOTHER.

INDEX

Pages

INDOOR UDEPARITMENG Vag ices aciacstas eee eee 9
Growing Bulbs for the Dwelling House.................. ui

1.- “In Soilwand, Pots.2 o20.26). pic vave cae see aces otioeen 11 to 19

Tamer Gs Well cy 0) o Vaca ea Serr Sie RE ne Seer Cee PS ie CEE 19 to 22

Sv alnavVvater and ~bebblestwsna.- nee inn eee 22,23

Ae, LIV SIMOSS Soe eet ccc eye nloe sige he aie Ce eee PTT 24

SS ASHAIFSPlantses cee eee ee eee eee 24, 25
Growing Bulbs for the Conservatory.................05 25 to 36
OUT-OF DOOR DEPARTMENT ¢inetacceces sacs ones 37
Thes@rnamental Garden, «.5 2.52244 oss ore oi ee 39, 40
‘Dbhe Country Garden 2. as. oe cen sicee oe ee ee eee 40 to 43
Théeebardy Border icp ccc ces eee eh Ee ee 43 to 47
bes ROCK ATEN tak. wee ohieene os.2 Wy. Wit ieee ee 47, 48
sheep VicadowAot ica wil ieeis eee ee eee 48, 49
MIG GWiOOdS posits ive mice per eee nena Pea ee Oe er 49
The-Lakewand) Brooksided..c7oicoccoe eee ee ee 49, 50
Thes\ Winter: Garden), Sigs cas ee eee ee Oe 50
Dn PAMILY OR BULBS:cace cote cate eee oe 51
BRO SID. estan aie sete les nna ne ICT ee 53 to 62

BE tO: ET a neers Gate AC ace eR ee eee 62 to 67
DO ME oh 2 ese Wi sein SISOS Oe ET PPE tse Cee 67 to 71

IND 00: GRR ier ices Sic eee Rena tee se an ran ee Ciatomis

tise on the growing of Winter and Spring flowering bulbs, I do so

with the knowledge that this is the first book of its kind ever
published wherein the amateur or non-professional gardener can
truly find the pathway to a better understanding of this valuable and
popular family of flowers.

May the enthusiasm which I have allowed to run rampant from
my pen have the result of instilling a greater love for these flowers
into the hearts of my readers and may the army of flower-lovers be
augmented a thousand fold by those who through coming in contact
with this book find the pastime of growing flowers the stepping stone
to happiness and joy.

Treating my subject solely for the benefit of the amateur, the
suggestions and recommendations as given in this book would not
help the person who wishes to grow these flowers on a commercial
basis or for profit.

To make this treatise thoroughly practical and easy for reference,
certain subdivisions were necessary and I hope will be welcomed as
a step in a progressive direction.

This volume contains no reference to bulbs which are commonly
cultivated for Summer flowering and which as a rule are planted in
the Spring, nor do I claim for my book that it includes every species
of the very class which I am describing, for I have intentionally
omitted such species as are difficult to grow, or which do not suit
the American climate or have become unpopular.

MAURICE FULD.

if submitting to the American Garden enthusiast a thorough trea-

~

1
De i ee
ui
Ip pes

vi
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a a

INDOOR DEPARTMENT

HE dismal, cheerless winter!—an expression frequently heard
i from the lips of some people, who evidently have never experi-
enced the immeasurable pleasure that would be theirs if they
grew a few bulbs to bloom during the winter. We may all love our
spring, summer and fall garden, but let me gaze at that first paper-
white Narcissus, which I planted in September, and which unfolds
about Thanksgiving Day, and I would willingly exchange all other
pleasure for it. Nothing can appeal more strongly to my heart than
the plant which I set with my own hands and of which I see the
constant progress, caring for it daily and watching it advance to its
climax—the unfolding and coloring of its buds. Oh, what a world
of rapturous joy it spells!—the banishing of gloom, grouch and lone-
liness, and in their place come sunshine, happiness, joy, health, wealth,
the glow in the cheeks, smiles and peace!

There is no reason why with little expense one cannot enjoy
a veritable winter garden, where one can roam amongst the flowers
as freely as if it were June, and what a blessing it must be to people
who are compelled to live in city dwellings and who by this method
get all the fun of gardening. This does not mean the preaching of
a new doctrine; winter- gardening with bulbs has been practiced even
in America as ‘long as bulbs have been known, but the “how” and
“when” has never been thoroughly explained in the present-day lit-
erature on this subject.

“Success” from the first is a great inspiration to the beginner
and encourages him to go deeper into his favorite study; it fills him
with enthusiasm to such a degree that he will try his utmost to interest
others in the work until the whole universe will be a garden of flowers.

It is my aim to make this story so attractive and so complete
that those who read must try the experiment and those who try it
must succeed.

a a eS eee

Growing Bulbs for the
Dwelling House

HE word “indoor” comprises really two distinct departments;
namely, (1) the regular dwelling and (2) the conservatory. The
cultures for both vary so greatly that it would be impossible
to combine them in one treatise, and for this reason the separation
of this chapter. Bulbs can be grown, even for the dwelling, in five
distinct ways, namely:
1. In soil and pots.
2. In fibre and vases.
3. In water and pebbles.
4. In moss exclusively.
5. As air plants.

In submitting a detailed story for each, I am simply doing what
is absolutely necessary to guide my reader into the path of success,
for if failures have existed in the past it has been due to too much
taking for granted. As I want this book to serve those who know
absolutely nothing on the subject as well as others more experienced,
I have another reason for treating my subject thoroughly, and I
simply mention this to avoid criticism.

1. In Soil and Pots.

This is the universal, most natural, and most successful method.
In considering this method the following concrete matters should
arrest our attention and consideration: (a) Bulbs, (b) Soil, (c) Re-
ceptacle, (d) Storage place for Rooting, (e) The proper place to
bring the flower to maturity.

a. BULBS.—This word embraces a great family of flowers and
is often misused, so in writing this book I have considered it advisable
not to change the order of things as they are in general. Many
plants which produce rhyzomes at their base are called “bulbous”
here, as this term is given them in many seed books. The word
“bulb” in itself, though, should instantly impress one with confidence,
for when we handle a well matured bulb we are holding in our hand
a shell containing a completely perfected plant in miniature, where
every minute detail is already worked out (this to my mind is the
most glorious thing in nature), and all that we have to do is to
provide the best possible conditions resembling those of nature to
enlarge and perfect what has been prepared for us. For this reason
alone a failure with bulbs should be an impossibility. Not all varie-
ties of bulbs can be used for house culture and herein lies the cause
of certain failures. To give here a complete list of available varieties
is impossible, but under the heading of each class of bulbs I am
again referring to this special point, and so in a selection of suitable
material for house culture one should read this book through before
beginning the task.

The quality of the bulb used for this purpose should be the very
best, for you cannot produce good results from inferior bulbs. It is
utterly impossible for me to be too emphatic on this point, a point

12 GROWING BULBS

which at no time has received serious consideration from the Ameri-
can gardening public. This in itself is responsible for the deplorable
fact that Holland and other bulb centers on the Continent have for
years past used the American market for the dumping ground of
all the most undesirable stock. The Hollander will sell you bulbs
at as many different prices as you are willing to pay, and I must
even allow that he is perfectly honorable about it, for he is frank
enough to tell you that you are receiving just exactly what you pay
for. Cheap bulbs are always expensive, for they require the same
amount of care, labor and time to produce results. It is not to be
taken for granted that the largest bulb is the most perfect, for size
often is a deceiving point. Plumpness, weight, solidity and age are
the factors which sum up “perfection.” Some of the finest varieties
of Hyacinths never produce extra large sized bulbs, yet the flower
produced from what may appear to be a medium sized bulb is larger
and superior in every way.

b. SOIL.—The ideal potting soil for most all bulbs mentioned
in this book is that taken from a soil heap which has been especially
prepared a year or eighteen months before the time of planting.
A soil heap is undoubtedly the most necessary, useful and handy
material, a requisite which no gardener should be without.

A soil heap is made by using solid layers of the following mate-
rials in rotation:

1. Turned-over sod.

2. Good garden soil.

3. Sharp sand.

4. Leaf mould.

5. Decayed stable manure.

6. All kinds of green forage, such as lawn clippings, unusable
vegetables, refuse from the kitchen, dahlia foliage and stalks, in fact
anything in fresh vegetation that you wish to discard, except diseased
plants.

7. Thin dustings of ground bone and lime between every other
layer.

In the making of the soil heap layers of sod should be more fre-
quent than the other material. The best time to make a soil heap
is in the spring; for fully 12 months it should remain undisturbed,
but the following spring it should be completely turned several times
to thoroughly mix the different ingredients. Between spring and
fall of the second year the heap should be turned at least twice again,
and just before use, the quantity required should be thrown through
a sieve to remove any lumps or stones.

Wherever the making of a soil heap in advance is impossible the
following composition of soil can be used and the mixing of same can
take place at the time of potting:

Goodilive:gardentioame n-ne sak en eee ee 1/3
Teal mouldiiwc oo eee } 1/3
Well decayed stable manure§ “°° "CCC

Sharp: ‘sand vaio. 025 os Se eee one ernie 1/3

People who do not own gardens can purchase the right kind
of soil from their seedsman. Reliable seedsmen will furnish the very
soil described for the soil heap at a most moderate price.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 13

At no time should anyone resort to use soil which has been
used or is spent, for such soil as a rule is void of life and to use it
would invite failure from the start. Many people have an idea that
they can use the soil which has been in the window-box all summer.
Nothing could be more detrimental.

c. RECEPTACLE.—With this method the porous earthen pot
or pan is the most satisfactory receptacle to use; but almost every
variety of bulb requires a different sized pot, according to the number
of bulbs desired in a pot.

There are but few bulbs which look well grown singly in a pot.
The following would suit for this purpose: Dutch Hyacinths, Callas,
Lilies and Cyclamen. All others look best when grown in numbers in
either six-inch or eight-inch or ten-inch pan. If the above mentioned
four bulbs were grown singly in a pot, the Hyacinth would require a
five-inch or perhaps a six-inch pot; Callas, according to size, require
from a six-inch to nine-inch pot; Lilies from a five-inch to eight-inch
pot, according to size of bulb, and Cyclamen about a five-inch pot.

The most satisfactory method for a beginner is to first purchase
his bulbs and when they have been received to unpack them and lay
each sort upon the table so that he can intelligently plan for the size
of pot or pan, and then to figure his requirements. No set rule can
be given as to how many Hyacinths can be planted in a six-inch pan,
for it depends entirely on the size of the bulbs. The knowledge that
the bulbs are first size or second size is of no help, for second size
bulbs of a certain variety can be larger than first size bulbs of another
sort.

The average rule is as follows:

POLIS IEID ea op Peer ereoer a 1 30

ATIEMONeH eee eos 4 8 12
PUMOMAtheCa occ eek ee wes - 12 20 35
CaAlOcHOreusn cece eee 9 15 22
Crocusieae can base csi 12 20 35
MYA OGIUB, oe acer ee oa vate 6 10 15
DUICo EL yACINehsy 255 cecss 4 6 9
Feathered Hyacinths ....... 12 20 35
rGesiaencr cr en tt ce eee 12 24 35
Grape Hyacinths ........... 20 36 60
Jonquils; little: <7. <.c.... 12 20 35
Lilies of the Valley........ 12 25 40
Miniature Hyacinths ....... 7 12 18
Musk Eyacinths ......2:... a 9 15
Oxalis; regulary... ...2...5. 10 18 28
Oxalis, Buttercup .......... 5) 6 10
Polyanthus Narcissus ...... 5 9 15
Puschkinnia Libanolica .... 12 20 35
RAWIN GUIs Sone os scrses a6 3s + 8 12
Romatr Elyacinths -........ 5 9 15
peTOpAcCOlUMers ss. oe eee 4 7 10
LEI To) AR ee OER ite 20 9 15 22

The foregoing are those classes of bulbs from which the non-
professional gardener can select certain varieties for growing in the
dwelling house.

14 GROWING BULBS

To combine several colors or varieties of a certain specimen in a
pot is never productive of desirable results; either the combination
of colors clash or the varieties do not flower together, or grow of
different heights.

There is an intermediate pot between the regular pot and what
is known as bulb pan, and it is commercially called “Azalea Pot.”
Daffodils, which are rather elongated bulbs, do much better in these
pots, also Hyacinths, for they allow more play room for roots.
Again, fern-dishes, which are very shallow, may be used advantage-
ously for small and flat bulbs such as Crocus, Snowdrops, Grape
Hyacinths and Puschkinnia.

The Proper Method of Potting.

With bulbs, soil and receptacle at your disposal you are ready to
proceed to pot.

WHEN TO POT.—Two-thirds of the success in this method is
traceable to timely potting.

Freesias and Callas should be potted in July. Lilies, Oxalis, Ro-
man Hyacinths, Paper-white Narcissus and Alliums in August. All
others in September, except Anomatheca and Lilies of the Valley, and
these two should be potted in November.

In a complete collection of bulbs there is a great variation of
times when they arrive from their original sources, and of course
at that time they are in the prime of life. It goes without saying
that the ideal time for potting bulbs is immediately after their arrival
from their original growing place; I would suggest that when you
order your bulbs you instruct your dealer to forward the different
items just as they arrive, for then you will at least have favorable
conditions to begin with. The longer a bulb remains dormant, the
weaker it becomes in constitution. The planting of bulbs for the
house after October, with the exception of a few varieties, is a waste-
ful effort. Have you ever grown Hyacinths where the flower would
color while still hidden way down in the foliage, and when you touched
the flower it would lift right out and show no connection with the
roots? Well, that is one of the results of late planting; the base of
the bulb has become so hardened that there is no connection between
the roots and the growths. Two-thirds of stunted flowers of Tulips
and Daffodils are the result of the same complaint. The following
rules for potting should be strictly adhered to:

Variety. Month.
From To

FireeSia sis thesia eke July August
Gladiolus Atroviolaceous....... 4 .
Oxalis): o.. Shes ee oS eee % September
Callas) 4.) 4c) aActh ere -
Lilium Harrisii and its family S i
Roman hHyacinthsi. oe August October
Paper-white Narcissus ........ January
Allium Neapolitanum ......... rm September
Jonquils Campernelle ......... 4 October

“ee

Dutch Hyacinthe 222 -.--5...-. September

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 15

Variety. Month.
From fo)
UMD SRO va ote aide ae September October

Daffodils, Narcissus and Jon-
quils other than mentioned
before.

Smiallgliyacinths = see ce
Puschkinnia Libanotica ....... September
FRAMUMNCULUS ncn ore out aoe facets nes
Snowdrops and Scillas........
PUTOPACOLEUIMN. ctere ls. ciepcloie ceselerioietele
Anomathecaiss ccicctscreteterticnse sieve October November
SPiLeage cree se November December
Gladiolus Nanus 2... 56.:.. 2.0. = oe
Enly_of the Valley 3.2... 2....: se ‘
Cypripedium Acaule .......... December January
Of all varieties mentioned above where no specific variety is given
I recommend to select only such sorts that are suitable for pot culture.

HOW TO POT.—In the bottom of the pot should first be placed
a few pieces of broken crockery to produce drainage. Upon the
crockery it is advisable to place a thin layer of Sphagnum Moss (this
is the common wood moss) so that the roots do not suffer in case
watering is neglected. One or two small pieces of charcoal deposited
upon the moss will help to keep the soil sweet. We now fill the pot
with soil up to two-thirds of its capacity. We then place our bulbs
and it should be borne in mind that the nose or top of certain bulbs
should and can protrude from the soil after we are finished potting.
Hyacinths, Daffodils and Narcissus are the varieties to which the
above rules apply, while all others require that no part of the bulbs
is visible, but that does not mean that they should be planted deep,
but just under the surface. A finished pot should never have the soil
come up to the top, but a playroom of at least one-quarter to one-half
inch should be left vacant. This is especially desirable for watering,
for otherwise the water would run right off and could not be taken
up fast enough by the plant.

Every pot should contain a label stating the name of the variety
the pot contains.

Some growers after the bulbs have been placed on the soil use
pure sand to fill in betwen the bulbs, as it will allow the water to flow
freely to the roots. Just as soon as a pot is finished it ought to receive
a thorough soaking.

This completes the work of potting.

d. STORAGE PLACE FOR ROOTING.—With the exception
of Freesias and Oxalis, Callas and Lilies, all potted bulbs should be
stored away in a dark place for the purpose of making roots. One
should not attempt to produce any top-growth before a sufficient
amount of root-growth is made to support it. We should at least
attempt to provide in this storage place conditions which approach
to a marked degree those found in the open garden. How can this
be produced? There are several ways. 1. Ifa cold frame is at hand
this is the ideal storing place. Remove sufficient soil to allow for the

16 GROWING BULBS

heights of pots and pans and cover the ground with a layer of coarse
coal ashes. They are splendid for drainage and will keep away field
mice, which as a rule are fond of tulips and have been known to de-
stroy them by the hundreds. In placing the pans or pots it is well
to remember that those which are taken out first should be placed
where they are easily accessible. (See notes, “How long to store.”)
Finally, all pots and pans should be buried under four to six inches of
sand. The available space between sash and sand should be filled
solidly with leaves, but not before freezing weather sets in.

Under those conditions one can go to the frame any day in winter
(regardless of weather) and easily remove the pots to the house.

Whoever has a garden and loves to grow these bulbous flowers,
could not invest in anything more useful and serviceable than a cold
frame. A single year’s use would repay the entire expense and the
frame should last indefinitely. A cold frame would mean absolute
success, would save all care for the bulbs from the time they are
stored until they are brought to the light and would give maximum
results from a minimum of labor.

The frame no doubt is the most satisfactory storage place, but
by stating this I do not wish to discourage the gardener who cannot
afford a cold frame or who does not possess one. On the contrary,
I want to show him a method by which he can find a substitute for
aframe. Dig a pit two feet deep, put a good layer of coarse coal ashes
in the bottom, place your pots, fill finer ashes between the pots and
cover the whole with pure sand to come even with the surface of your
garden. When freezing weather sets in cover the spot with manure
to a depth of fully 12 inches. In lifting the pots it may be necessary
to await favorable weather, which is the only drawback with this
method. In digging the pit select a spot where water is not liable
to settle.

Both of the foregoing methods are of course designed for such
people who are so fortunate as to live in the country and havea garden;
but what about the city-dweller who perhaps is more devoted to this
class of flowers because it gives him a substitute for a garden, and
how willing he is to go to all sorts of trouble to try and raise a few
flowers which he can call his own.

The love of growing flowers is born with most of us and when
I see this love in people who are by circumstances handicapped to
give it full vent my heart goes out to them and I want to help them.

The method hereafter described is perhaps more in vogue than
any other and I shall be careful in describing it fully so that the
person, who perhaps may live in a single room, may find here the in-
spiration and the stepping stone to some happy hours, which other-
wise might have been desolate and tiring.

A temperature of from 42 to 50 degrees and the exclusion of light
are the two most important points, and they must exist to form the
real storing place for bulbs to root. Let us consider these two points
separately.

The first place we would naturally look to for a steady temperature
of from 42 to 50 degrees is the cellar. If the cellar is unheated and air
can be admitted to it, that is your ideal spot. But how many cellars
are unheated? Very few indeed. In spacious cellars, though, as a rule
there are extreme corners, farthest away from the heater, where it is

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 17

rather cool. Such a corner can be made to do, provided it is located
near the point of ventilation. Sweet, fresh air is as much a food to
a plant as it is to a baby. But why resort to the cellar alone? There
are other places in a house which perhaps are more suitable. For
instance, the attic. If unheated, just right. Perhaps you say, it is too
cold at times, for it goes down to the freezing point and lower during
cold spells. These are conditions which are much easier to change
and control than if the place was too warm. We must never lose
sight of the fact that most bulbs are improved by freezing, for that
would be the treatment they would receive out-of-doors. If the attic
is heated and the heat cannot be controlled, there may be a spare room
where the heat is omitted. Not only should the temperature be low,
but it should not vary at any time to a great extent. That is the reason
why living rooms are not good storing places for bulbs. Invariably
we enjoy temperature of 70 degrees during the day and about 50 de-
grees or less during the night.

There is one rule in growing all plants which if carefully studied
and followed must spell “success,” and that rule consists of three
words: “Keep it growing.” As soon as any plant receives a set-back
during its process of growing it has a handicap which few plants are
ever able to overcome. Like spring gently follows the winter (accord-
ing to the teachings of science and not to actual experience nowadays)
so does a gentle increase in temperature advance the growth of any
plant. Once that growth is started the progress must be continuous
or failure is the result.

Suppose my reader had at his disposal only a furnished room and
his room had to be heated; there are still possibilities of growing
bulbs. To begin with, try and live in as cool a temperature as possible.
It is much healthier to live in a room of 55 to 60 degrees than in 75 or
80 degrees. This temperature in the storing of the bulbs can be still
further reduced for the bulbs by adopting the following suggestion:
Secure any kind of wooden box, line it if possible with tin, spread a
3-inch layer of coarse coal ashes in the bottom, place the pots upon the
ashes and fill the box entirely with ashes. Do this by the open win-
dow so that this preparation is conducted in as cool an atmosphere as
possible. Then place the box as far away from the radiator as pos-
sible, but not in a place where fresh air cannot reach it. The selection
of varieties will also help to greater success. It should always be
remembered that it is much easier to grow Dutch and Roman Hya-
cinths, Jonquils and Daffodils, Paper-white Narcissus than any other
bulb, and those persons whose storing conditions are not just ideal
owe be much better off if limiting themselves to the aforementioned
classes.

IN THE STORING OF BULBS THERE IS ONE PLACE IN
USE TODAY WHICH I WISH TO DISCOURAGE, NAMELY,
THE CLOTHES CLOSET. Air, as stated before, is an absolute
plant food and in a closet it is always of inferior quality.

THE ELIMINATION OF LIGHT.—Exclusion of daylight only
is not sufficient—conditions must be similar to the out-of-doors. This
can be accomplished in two ways: If the floor is concrete or asphalt,
spread ashes or sand upon it to the depth of at least three inches.
Upon this place the potted bulbs in single layers and cover them with
either ashes or sand to a depth of six inches, so that the pots are en-

18 GROWING BULBS

tirely buried. If the floor is of wood store the bulbs in a box and line
the box with tin, but have ashes or sand below, between and above
the pots.

WATERING DURING STORING PROCESS.—As stated be-
fore, directly after potting, the pots should receive a thorough soak-
ing. If stored in the cold frame or the pit, they require no further
looking after until brought to light, but if they have been stored in
the house it is advisable to sprinkle either the floor or the box or the
surface of the entire lot, or all, at least once a week so that there is
no chance for the soil in the pots to dry out. This watering is in-
tended solely to keep the moisture within the pots, not to let it escape.
In this weekly watering the purpose in mind is simply to create a
moist atmosphere and at no time should the watering be so plentiful
as to carry it to the pots themselves. Should the soil become very
dry in the pots it would mean a blind bulb, or in other words, you
would produce foliage and no flowers. We all have had this expe-
rience and invariably we blame the bulbs for it.

HOW LONG SHOULD WE LEAVE A BULB IN THE STOR-
AGE PLACE IN ORDER TO KNOW THAT IT IS PROPERLY
ROOTED? The time varies greatly and the table below simply gives
the minimum amount of time required. It is always desirable to have
a succession of flowers of the same kind during the winter, but that
does not mean that we have to pot our bulbs at different periods, but
the fact is that they all should be potted at one time and that early,
but in bringing them to the room as many pots should be lifted as
desired at one time. For a continuous succession of bloom, pots
should be lifted once a week.

Time Table for Storing.

Variety. Limit of Duration.
Paper-white Narcissus jici2ccie eit seein es 6 weeks
Roman HyacinchsSae erie cuecirireiverietrs terete .
Allium: Neapolitanum (226 ag0)< seer aisieles 14 %
Jonquils sCampernetle 2 iis a0 sess ei 14 ae
Dutchehlyacinths tes eco siietoeiee seco: 14 $
SD UI Sweeace Mans acer leas se tie wens enuceereeloehals 16 =
Daffodils, Jonquils and Narcissus other

than! MeNtlONEG: Fie sss ela lel siete cielats camo 12 te
Crocus ya ea eiss cisco iaste weleiee lee 16 s
SmallHyacinths acco 2 ecient renner 16 .
Puschkinnia oslo ciussts Soricgs eee teers 16 s
SHOWOLODS. c.g mi cievsre toe slens elaine ater casieteraiets 16 a
Scilla 2.002) Seer eee eeinsioe eran aie 16 -

THE PLACE TO MATURE THE FLOWER.—The change
from the storing place to the place where the bulbs are expected to
flower, considering light and heat, should be gradual. When they are
lifted from the frame or pit they are probably in a frozen condition.
It is essential to thaw them out gradually. If they are stored in the
dwelling the light should come to them gradually, but one more im-
portant point must be considered. Immediately after lifting try to

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 19

ascertain if the roots are well developed and have pierced the soil in
all directions. This is easily accomplished by carefully turning the
pot upside-down, with one hand to hold the bulbs and soil intact
and with the other to lift the pot sufficiently to investigate the roots.
If the roots are not sufficiently developed, then place the pot back
again, for without good roots the result is always indifferent. Many
of the bulbs have perhaps made considerable top-growth while in
storage and naturally this top-growth is yellow. Two or three days
in partial or indirect light will quickly change yellow to green.

The final place where they are to flower should be selected with
care. Of course we want them in our living room, where we can
enjoy them, but here the conditions best for the plant are not ideal.
When they are first brought to the light 50 degrees is the proper tem-
perature and as they progress the temperature can increase to the
usual one in a living room. Those who wish to produce the finest
flowers would do well to grow them first in a laundry and when the
flower-buds show bring them to the living room. The moment they
are taken from the storage they require daily attention as to watering,
and occasionally an application of liquid food such as dissolved sheep
Sea When the bud shows to turn color apply the liquid food

aily.

Once in the living room the plant must have direct light, so if
placed near the window it is in the best spot, but care must be taken
to protect the plants from frost during the night, either by removing
them to the center of the room or by covering them with sufficient
thicknesses of newspapers.

The unfolding of the flower-bud is to my mind the most inspiring
sight, and I should like to suggest to those who have not yet enjoyed
it to watch for it when the Hyacinths or Daffodils are at this stage of
their life. The Poetaz Narcissii, however, present the most beautiful
buds of all.

In conclusion, an appeal to those who are kind of heart. Remem-
ber those unfortunates who are ill and bed-ridden. A pot of bulbs,
well advanced but where the flowers do not yet show colors, will
prove a message of cheer, excelling medicine or any other stimulant,
for it strengthens the hope in life—a sure cure for all ills.

2. Growing in Fibre and Vases.

This, a unique and original method, means the abolishing of soil
and the unsightly pot with its opening at the base for drainage and,
of course, the saucer.

In the place of soil the new method offers a fibre prepared from
certain plants and mixed with moss, which is absolutely clean and
odorless. Once used it can be stored away and re-used for a number
of years. It is as light as a feather, retains moisture well and has
certain food qualities. For a receptacle we can use any artistic glazed
or unglazed china bowl, pottery or glass, provided it is shallow and
its shape suits the purpose. This feature in itself produces a far more
artistic effect for the sitting room. In these jardinieres there is no
outlet for superfluous water, an advantage which can only be measured

20 GROWING BULBS

by the fact that these vases can be placed anywhere about the house,
in the drawing-room or dining-room, without fear of any water or dirt
coming through the base of the receptacle.

CULTURE.—For city dwellers this method proves a revelation
and boon. The fibre is so clean that after handling it no dirt has
accumulated on the hands.

The prepared fibre, which you receive in dry condition, must first
be moistened, when it appears like moss just gathered from the fields.
It must not be too wet. Select your bowl or vase for the particular
kind of bulb you wish to plant. The smaller bulbs such as Crocuses,
Scillas, Grape Hyacinths, Puschkinnias and Snowdrops should be
planted in very shallow dishes, while Hyacinths, Tulips and Daffodils
require more depth. Never mix the kind of bulbs or colors, but use
all one color of one variety in a single dish.

No broken crockery or moss is necessary here, but simply place
a few pieces of charcoal in the base and fill with moistened fibre of
one to three inches depth according to the height of the bowl. Place
the bulbs in position so that their tips reach to within a half inch of
the rim, the spaces between and around the bulbs to be filled also
with the moistened fibre, but carefully pressed in by hand, not too
tight, however. This pressing does not apply to the fibre below the
bulbs.

Once potted as mentioned above the vases should be stored ina
dark, airy cellar or room regardless of temperatures, but nothing
could be worse than to store them in a confined cupboard or a small,
dark, airless room.

The only attention we need give them from now on is to see that
the compost is kept steadily moist, but on no account should it be
sodden or too wet; neither should it ever be allowed to become dry,
even for half a day only, for the pores of the roots close up and the
bulbs in many cases go blind and are ruined. This happens more
frequently with Tulips than Narcissus, the Tulip roots being finer
and therefore more liable to injury.

When the bulbs have grown about one inch above the surface they
should be brought to daylight (the time that they thus remain in dark
storage varies again according to the variety of bulbs) and the vases
or bowls can be placed in the window, care being taken, of course, to
keep them from frost. Watering now is of utmost importance. The
surface of the fibre should always look moist, but if too much water
has been given the bowl may be held carefully on its side so that the
surplus water can drain away. As the growth increases, more water
will be required and all the light possible should be given to insure
sturdy foliage.

The fibre is very inexpensive, considering that a certain measure
increases one-third in size, for you receive it packed tightly and dry,
and when moistened it swells considerably.

This new method was first introduced by the late Mr. Robert
Sydenham (“Uncle Bob,” as he was familiarly known to the frater-
nity), at Birmingham, England, and for a decade almost he worked
untiringly to perfect this method to such a degree that in England
today there are special exhibitions of bulbous flowers grown in fibre.
As Mr. Sydenham says, it is the most charming method of growing
beautiful spring flowers for house and table decorations.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 21

Although, as mentioned, the fibre has certain food qualities, an
additional food in the shape of weak soot water may be given with
advantage when the bulbs are coming into bloom.

Some growers recommend the adding of ground oyster shells to
the fibre at the rate of eight pounds of shell to one bushel of the
dry fibre, but when moistened it will weigh nearly 40 pounds.

The Ideal Selection of Bulbs to Grow in
Prepared Fibre.

I repeat herewith Mr. Sydenham’s account, as his experiences are
undoubtedly far more valuable than anything I could offer.

ROMAN HYACINTHS.—Six or more bulbs in a bowl make a
very charming table decoration, and if potted early in September
may easily be in bloom by middle of December; if a few are potted
every two weeks from the date mentioned a succession may be had
for a number of weeks.

FREESIAS are delightful flowers. If the small bulbs are potted in
August or early in September and kept in a cold frame till well rooted,
they may easily be had in bloom in January.

PAPER-WHITE NARCISSII.—If potted from August on, fort-
nightly up to January, a constant procession of flowers may be had
from November until March.

POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS.—Although the Paper-white be-
longs to this family, it is rather distinct, for it flowers much earlier
and is much freer in bloom.

Some of the other varieties though, notwithstanding their later
flowering qualities. are better, more handsome and larger. The varie-
ties which do particularly well are Etoile d’or, Grand Monarque,
Grand Soleil d’or and Queen of the Netherlands.

POETAZ NARCISSUS.—The new Poetaz family are very charm-
ing when grown in fibre. The varieties Elvira, Irene and Alsace have
proven the best. They are very delicately perfumed.

DAFFODILS.—The following varieties have proven far superior
to many of the others which were tried: Obvallaris, Henry Irving,
Golden Spur, Emperor, Victoria, Madame Plemp, Vanilla, Madame de
Graaf, Mrs. Langtry, Barri Conspicuous, Poeticus Ornatus, Queen of
Spain, Sir Watkin, Von Sion and Orange Phoenix.

DUTCH HYACINTHS.—All of them grow splendidly in fibre.

TULIPS.—Only certain varieties succeed in fibre and these are
mentioned forthwith: Yellow Prince, Mon Tresor, Vermillion
Brilliant, Prince of Austria, Pottebakker White, Joost V. Vondel
White, Keizerskroon, Fabiola and Rose Grisdelin.

Pee era sorts do well but only large bulbs should be
used.

meow DROS These harbingers of spring all do ex-

ceedingly well in fibre and if planted in
Ce very shallow bowls are a perfect picture.

This method is almost unknown in America, yet there is an
enormous field for its adoption. Why is the gardening public so slow
to adopt newer and better methods? Is it because they have been dis-

22 . GROWING BULBS

appointed in the past, or is it because they are used to their grand-
mother’s ways? My personal opinion is that those who would profit
most by the distribution of horticultural material have done least in
the past to disseminate really helpful information which would bring
about more love for growing flowers.

3. In Water and Pebbles.

One of the easiest methods for a few varieties of bulbs.

The Chinese introduced this method here by showing us their
Sacred Lilies and growing them in this fashion.

China bowls, plates or plaques are the most artistic receptacles;
the pebbles are used to produce an even bed for the bulbs to sit upon
and to hold the bulbs erect. The pebbles should take up a depth of
at least one inch and a few pieces of charcoal should be placed un-
derneath them. The bulbs should be set very close, because great
masses produces the best effect. Large China plaques which can con-
tain from 50 to 100 Paper-white Narcissus are perhaps amongst the
most lovely things in creation when the bulbs are in full bloom.

There are but three classes of bulbs which can be successfully
grown in this manner.

PAPER-WHITE NARCISSII.—The flower and its form resem-
bles the Chinese Lily and does best of all. The essential points for
a successful culture are to keep it cool at all times.. With the
Chinese Lily as well as the Narcissii the water can cover the bulb,
but this is not essential. After planting, place the dish in a dark
and cool place for about two weeks, then place in direct light and in
as cool a spot as possible. The first flowers appear within eight
weeks after planting and for six weeks they are constantly within
reach of the eye, watching their daily progress which we imagine
goes at the rate of an inch a day. The chaste white blossoms are
dainty and cheerful and as a child can grow them successfully they
ought to be found in every home, rich or poor.

The bulbs of these Narcissii arrive in August and as a rule few
people think of planting bulbs until October; this brings the blooms
about December and invariably the very easy manner in which they
flower brings on the desire to try once more. But now it is too late
to procure any more bulbs. It is advisable therefore to purchase
enough in the beginning to cover the wants for the entire winter; but
in storing bulbs away for later planting we should spread them on
shelves in a cool dry room, otherwise they may be found in such con-
dition later that they are worthless.

_NARCISSUS GRAND SOLEIL D’OR.—Related to the “Paper-
white” it requires much longer time to come into bloom, but being of
a golden yellow color, it is much desired and pays for the patience
it exacts.

CHINESE SACRED LILIES.—The Chinese usually peel the
brown skin from the bulb and make a few incisions on the side to
allow the new growth to break through quicker. The water should
come at least to within the middle of the bulb so that a deeper dish
or bowl is necessary. With many people the plants grow too fast
with the result that the buds blight and never mature. The reason

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 23

for this is, that the bulbs were grown in too much heat. Chinamen
grow Lilies to perfection in rooms where there is little or almost no
heat at all.

CROCUS.—Only mammoth bulbs should be used for this purpose
and although they require nearly five months to mature into bloom,
the very transformation from the old bulb to the new is a most
fascinating process and repays well for the delay in blooming.

Hyacinths in Plain Water in Bottles.

The French people were the first to adopt this novel method and
carried it along to such an extent that they made freaks of the plants
by producing a bottle where one bulb would grow upright and an-
other reversed. The latter would be entirely enclosed in a glass holder
and supporter. It is a curiosity and freakish to the limit. Fortunately
the latter method has never become popular. There are two styles
of glasses known as Hyacinths glasses, one about 10 inches high,
rather narrow with a mouth for the bulb to rest in; the other shape
is rather similar to a water bottle and dwarfed but has the same
form of mouth.

For decorative purposes they come in many colors; some growers
have advanced the idea that the color of the glass has an effect on
the rootgrowth, but I have never been able to verify this statement.

Not all varieties of Hyacinths can be successfully grown in this
method, but no one has ever dared to recommend a certain list of
sorts which can be relied upon, and as my experiments in this way
were not exhaustive enough to assume authority I shall leave this
point still unsettled for some future time.

The essential points in this method are as follows: A piece or
two of charcoal in the bottom of the glass, good sweet water, to reach
within an eighth of an inch of the base of the bulb; the usual method
is to bring the water right up to the bulb. The result is an unhealthy
rootgrowth, souring of water and decaying of base of bulb.

The glasses must be stored in a cool, airy, dark room (not closet),
until the roots have reached the bottom of the glass and until the
topgrowth has advanced from three to four inches, I like to see the
topgrowth almost perfected in the dark and only then are the ideal
results produced; namely, that the spike is far ahead of the foliage
and not as it so often is, squatted between the leaves and colored be-
fore it matures to its natural form. Many failures may be attributed
to impatience on the part of the grower in bringing the plants to the
light too soon. It is even much better to leave them in the dark too
long. See to it that the water is replenished whenever necessary;
change it entirely now and then.

Another practical method of producing the flower spike at the
same time as the foliage is as follows:

Prepare a paper cone of dark color, about 10 inches long and
place it over the bulb. The light entering from above will draw the
growth up simultaneously and when the spike is tall enough the cone
is removed. The foliage unfolds and the flowerspike is perfected.

24 GROWING BULBS

4. In Moss Exclusively.

This method may be adopted particularly well for Lily of the
Valley and Crocus. The receptacle may vary as one desires.

LILY OF THE VALLEY.—As a rule these arrive the latter part
of November or the beginning of December. The bulbs are known
as pips. Each pip has its set of roots, usually very long, and the pips
are packed in clusters OfyZ5:

If the fresh pips are grown just as they arrive they invariably
produce flowers, but no foliage. To produce both at the same time
it is necessary to subject the pips to solid frost for at least three days.
This can be accomplished by wrapping the pips in moss and bury-
ing slightly in the ground out of doors until they have been sufficiently
frozen or to pack them in a box and subject them to freezing storage.
A frozen Lily of the Valley will often produce its flowers within 21
days after planting. After being frozen they require gentle thawing
out. Have a deep pot or other receptacle ready, place a few pieces of
broken crockery at the base, add a piece or two of charcoal and then
take as many pips as your pot will conveniently hold and spread them
out so that there is space between each pip. Previous to this, secure
sphagnum moss, which is the ordinary wood or field moss, chop it
up to small pieces and pack this moss firmly between the pips until
the moss reaches the centre of the pip. Pack your pot into a larger
one or put several in a box, pack more moss between the pots and
soak it all, then place another pot upside down over them all to ex-
clude light and store them in as warm a place as possible, next to
the stove if convenient. See to it that the pots have plenty of water
every day. In about five days remove the cover, place pots in deep
saucers on top of steaming radiators, water three times a day and
soon the leaves and flowers will unfold; place now a cone of brown
paper over the pot to draw the flower up high and within a week
after this you will enjoy a pot of Lilies of the Valley equal to any
you have ever purchased.

SPRING CROCUS.—These may be grown in shallow bowls in
the manner recommended for water and pebbles, substituting moss for
the pebbles. Grow slowly and cool for they require fully five months
to produce flowers. Use large bulbs only.

CROCUS SPECIOSUS.—This is a fall flowering specie and if
planted as the foregoing in September it will be in full bloom some-
time in November. The beautiful lavender flowers are not accom-
panied by any foliage, and if cress is sown on the moss at the time
the bulbs are planted the flowers will appear above a beautiful green.

5. As Air Plants.

A very curious and interesting way to grow a few species of
bulbs. The reason that these bulbs will produce flowers without either
soil or water is that their time of flowering is here and that depriving
them of the soil or water does not stop them. The following belong
to this curious class of plants:

ARUM CORNUTUM, also called “SAUROMATUM GUT-
TATUM.”—A specie of Callas which produce enormous bulbs, rather
flat and saucer shaped. The bulbs are obtainable from November on.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 25

Placed in a saucer by the window where they can get all the sunshine
the spike will soon peep through the centre and rapidly grow to a
height of about 18 inches, when the sheath will unfold, disclosing a
flower similar to a Callas of a deep brown, striped and speckled with
reddish brown, which of course falls back, but holding the yellow pis-
ton rod erect. When opening, the flower gives forth a very strong,
unpleasant fragrance, which has often mislead some to call in the
plumber for repairs before they could realize what had happened. No
foliage is produced with the flower.

COLCHICUMS (The Meadow Saffron or Fall Crocus).—Like
the foregoing, this bulb produces its flowers without leaves. The
bulbs arrive in August and must be purchased for this purpose during
this month as they are usually in bloom by September. The white
finger-like growth emanating from the center of a large bulb discloses
a number of very large lavender-pink Crocus blooms in succession for
about two weeks. Several in a dish look mighty attractive. After
they have flowered they may be planted in the garden where they will
reappear each fall.

Growing Bulbs for the
Conservatory

ONSERVATORIES are as a rule under the care and super-
( vision of skilled, professional gardeners, who no doubt could

improve upon my suggestions which follow, but in connection
with this treatise I wish to impress forcibly one point; namely, that
not all conservatories are under the care of the skilled men, that
there are many owners of conservatories who themselves try to
master the growing of flowers under glass.

To encourage them and to guide them successfully the following
chapter has been embodied in this book.

In addition I like to do justice to some flowers which otherwise
could not be mentioned.

All of the bulbs as described fully in the preceding chapter can
be grown with greater success in conservatories for light and heat
can be controlled and conditions made ideal.

The cold frame as a storing place forms the best connecting link
when bulbs are grown under glass. When bulbs are brought in from
the frame they are usually placed under the bench first to change the
coler of the foliage.

The heat must be gradually increased in order to produce the
best flowers.

Conservatories permit the growing of many varieties of bulbs
which in dwellings cannot be produced. My sole aim in this chapter
is to bring these forward and to mention any special features which
are necessary to grow these bulbs to perfection.

To facilitate reference to them I give them here in alphabetical
orcer.

26 GROWING BULBS

Amaryllis—Hippeastrum Family.

Under this class one could collect perhaps several hundred
varieties, but in nearly all seedbooks one can find the following sorts:
A. Johnsoni, Prince of Orange, Vittata Hybrids, etc., etc.

It is very essential for the grower to make sure what class of
Amaryllis he is growing for otherwise he will soon be in trouble. If
at all possible procure growing plants in pots for then you are saving
yourself a lot of trouble and you have the advantage of enjoying a
prime flower the first winter or spring.

In the spring, after blooming, plunge the pots in the open ground,
and water but sparingly, simply to keep them growing. The idea is to
keep them in an inactive stage. About September 15th bring them to
the conservatory, gradually increase watering and when the buds peep
through between the leaves feed with liquid sheep manure.

They love a fairly warm and humid atmosphere and under those
conditions produce their best flowers.

If dormant bulbs are secured they must be so potted that only
part of the bulb is imbedded in the soil and fully one-half to two-
thirds is exposed above the surface; such plants will not produce a
perfect flower until the second winter. Keep them in growing con-
dition all the time just as recommended for growing plants.

Amaryllis Belladonna.

A unique variety or specie of Amaryllis. Secure the dormant bulbs
in summer and pot in the manner as suggested above.

In October or November the first growth, namely, the flower-
spike will appear, but no foliage. The flowers are of a beautiful shade
of pink and in order to make them more attractive it is advisable to
plant from four to six bulbs in an eight or ten inch pan and to plant
maidenhair ferns between them. This will entirely prevent a leggy
appearance of the plant when in bloom. A month after the blooming
season the foliage will make its appearance and keep on growing until
spring. From that time on watering should be done more and more
seldom until foliage dies down, when it can be almost entirely dis-
pensed with. If the space on the bench is acquired during summer the
pot with the bulbs can be stored in a slanting position under the
bench.

Bulbous Anemones.

All the following classes, namely: Anemone Coronaria, Anemone
Coronaria de Caen and Anemone St. Brigid require a distinct culture,
which can be applied to all alike. The bulb has a very peculiar ap-
pearance, resembling somewhat a small piece of dried up punk. The
average amateur cannot easily detect the top of the bulb and when-
ever this occurs it is best to set the bulb on its side. These Anemones
are mostly grown for cut-flowers and will when more widely known
become very popular. They are extremely cheerful and bright.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 27

The bulb should be potted in September by planting several in a
large bulbpan or a quantity in seedflats. They must be stored in
cold frames, but must not be allowed to freeze. They should not be
brought to the conservatory until about March 1st and even then
they must always be grown cool. The temperature which suits the
violet (about 50 degrees at night and 55 degrees in the daytime) suits
these bulbs equally well. In fact, if a house is devoted to violets, the
Anemones are best planted between them where they will produce
grand results.

But Anemones can be grown with equal success in cold frames
entirely. The frame of course must be given up entirely to Anemo-
nes or be divided with Ranunculus and early Gladiolus which require
exactly the same treatment. Prepare the soil in the frame carefully
and provide for perfect drainage. After they have been planted, place
the sash over the frame. When freezing weather sets in cover the
soil within with leaves right up to the sash and when the weather is
extremely severe protect the frame further with mats and shutters.

About March Ist remove the leaves and on bright days between
the hours of 10 and 3 open the sash to allow a free circulation of
air. Just as soon as the growth commences to appear above the soil,
watering must be daily attended to and an application now and then
of liquid sheep manure is excellent.

They usually begin to flower early in May and are at their best
during that month.

Anomatheca Cruenta.

This is known as the Red Freesia, as it resembles the Freesia in
growth, in foliage and flower.

It is never sold in dormant condition, but the plants are usually
lifted from the ground while growing and shipped here in November.
They are then potted, a number in a pot, and placed at once in a
cool greenhouse, where they slowly grow and where they produce
their bright scarlet flowers in March and April.

Calochortus
(Mariposa Tulip).

Although growing wild in California, it requires glass culture in
the East and North. The wonderful markings of the flower which
resemble those of the better orchids should be an inducement for
every flower lover to grow it. The bulbs arrive late and immediately
on their arrival should be potted. In growth it resembles a Tulip,
but is always weak in appearance. The bulbs after being potted
should be stored in a cold frame, but must not be allowed to freeze.
In February they are brought to the conservatory where they can
finally bloom in a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees.

Cyprepediums Acaule.

This is our native or wild Ladies Slipper. The pips which are
usually collected in October or November should be secured from

28 GROWING BULBS

your seedsman in frozen condition, gently thawed out, potted in a
pan and started cool and the heat can slowly but gradually be in-
creased. Under favorable condition the flowers should appear in five
weeks. Directly after potting they are best placed under the bench,
where they are excluded from the bright light. By planting them at
piteivels of a week there can be a succession of flowers for several
months.

Darwin Tulips.

I mention them here and not under the heading of “Growing for
the dwelling,” because I have never seen good results produced from
them in the house, but I have seen them in splendid condition, when
gently forced in the conservatory. The potting and storing can be
the same as for all regular tulips, but when they are brought in from
the frame they must not be placed in excessive heat, in fact they do
much better when grown entirely at a moderate temperature, such as
55 to 60 degrees. Darwin Tulips look beautiful in pans and they
furnish us the rare shades, including purple, mauve and wistaria.

Gerbera Jamesoni and Its Hybrids.

The Barberton Daisy with its wonderful arrangement of petals
and its long, massive stems, has become one of the most select
winterflowers, and now that we can have them in almost every shade
of the rainbow it is bound to become a general favorite.

During the winter of 1913 and 1914 the better flowers brought
one dollar each and all that could be produced found a customer
waiting. The flowers after being cut will invariably last from eight
to ten days. In order to produce a crop of flowers during the
winter the plants must have been dormant for four months previous
to planting, which usually takes place in November and December.
The best method to grow them is in a solid bench and not in pots.
Start them at a fairly cool temperature and on the dry side, that is,
water but sparingly until the first growth is through the ground;
then gradually increase the heat and the supply of water. The first
flowers usually appear towards the beginning of March and from
that time on there is a constant succession until June. When they
cease flowering, water must be gradually withdrawn until finally they
become almost entirely dormant; water should now only be given
about twice a month, simply to keep the soil alive. Just as soon as
they start again in the fall, give the bed a new topdressing and a
mulching of well decayed cow-manure. With every year the plants
will increase in size and produce a greater number of flowers.

Gladiolus Atroviolaceous.

A species which grows wild in the mountains of Egypt. It is
collected in the early spring and usually reaches this country in July.
The bulbs which are very small should then be potted and stored in a
cold frame. Brought to the conservatory in October, good flowers can

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 29

i

be had by Christmas, but they are much better if they are not brought
to the conservatory until January and still better results can be had
if they are planted directly into the frame and treated like French
Anemone.

They then flower in May. The flowers are narrow and small,
but dressing the stem closely, they produce in their wonderful shade
of blue an effect that is not easily approached by other flowers.

Gladiolus Nanus.

The fairly small bulbs usually arrive from Europe towards the
latter part of October and they can be treated in several ways: 1. If
the conservatory has a department which is entirely devoted to Car-
nations these Gladiolus may be planted between them; they do not
interfere in the growth of the Carnation and they like the temperature
in which the Carnation is produced. 2. They may be potted or
planted in flats and stored away in cold frames or protected pits until
February and March and then brought under glass and gently forced.
By the above two treatments they usually begin to flower about the
latter part of April and are at their best in May. 3. They may be
planted out into the cold frame and treated like Anemones and then
the flowers are produced in June.

Amongst the newer introductions there are some splendidly
colored sorts particularly in shades of lavender and pink.

GLADIOLUS COLVILLI, which is usually classed amongst
these, requires the exact same treatment.

Large Flowered Gladiolus.

There seems to be a tendency of useful summer flowers to be-
come more valuable when the same flowers can be had in bloom
during winter or early spring. As a splendid example the Sweet Pea
is prominent. Its value as a commercial flower during winter or
spring is five to ten times its value in July and so during late years
the large flowered Gladiolus has been brought forward to bloom dur-
ing April and May. Of course it means culture under glass.

In connection with this culture three points must be religiously
observed: 1. That the bulb to be used is of proper age, namely,
that it has flowered at least two years previously under regular field
culture and consequently is a fully matured and very large bulb of
its kind. 2. That the bulb is thoroughly cured. This one point
seems to have been more responsible for failures in the past_than
any other thing. Also the culture calls for planting in January. A Gladi-
olus bulb requires positively a rest of three months before it can be re-
grown for another crop of flowers; that would mean that the bulb
has to be harvested not later than the end of September. Only bulbs
that were planted in April, with the exception of a few quick flower-
ing varieties, as for instance “Pink Beauty” and similar kinds are
ready for lifting at that time. Even then the curing of the bulbs
must be far more thorough than it usually is if the bulbs are stored
for spring planting it may require the spreading of the bulbs on

30 GROWING BULBS

floors of storage rooms and artificial heat used to thoroughly dry
them. 3. That only such varieties are used which are early bloomers,
and which are known by past experience to flourish under this culture.

The following varieties may be recommended: “America,”
lavender pink; “Panama,” rose pink; “Pink Beauty,” deep salmon
pink with blood red blotch; “Mrs. Frank Pendleton, Jr.,” delicate sal-
man pink with blood red blotch; “Mrs. Francis King,” flame pink;
“Halley,” orange pink; “Augusta,” white flamed with pink; “May,”
white striped with pink; “Peace,” almost pure white; “Chicago White,”
almost pure white; “Brenchleyensis,” fiery scarlet; “Princeps,” true
scarlet and white; “Governor Hanley,” dark crimson; “Niagara,” straw
yellow. In under-glass culture the Gladiolus requires a cool tempera-
ture, and commercial growers usually grow them for economy’s sake
between Carnations, for the temperature which suits the Carnation also
suits the Gladiolus. If the grower is anxious to save the bulbs for
future plantings he must be careful in cutting the flower spike and see
to it that at least one set of leaves remains on the plant after it is cut.
Conditions similar as out of door culture for the maturing of the new
bulb is also necessary. This often means sacrificing valuable space
under glass and it is a question whether it pays. It might be more
judicious for the amateur to use new bulbs each season and discard
those grown unnder glass when through with them. Attempts are now
made to grow the Gladiolus in Bermuda, where the flowering season
out of doors is in April and such bulbs are cured in July and may be
planted in hot houses during August, and of course such bulbs should
produce a crop of flowers during the yuletide season.

Gloriosa.

A flower which is altogether too little known in this country.
When a large group of these flowers were exhibited in New York
last spring, thousands of flower enthusiasts stood aghast and asked
“What is it?”

Gloriosa is popularly known as the Climbing Lily of South
Africa. In the conservatory it can be put to several uses: 1. To
use as a climber over doorways or for a general greenhouse vine,
2. As a pot plant. The culture is the same in each case. The bulb
is of distinct appearance, resembling a giant finger. They are
dormant during late fall and are best procured at that time. When
received place them on dry moss on the bench of the conservatory
and watch for the white growth on one end of the bulb. Just as soon
as this growth progresses it is time to plant them.

If grown either in pots or for a vine several should be planted,
properly spaced, as a single bulb produces a very lonesome effect.

Cover the bulbs not more than one inch and grow in a warm
house. Growth is very rapid and the slender stalks must be tied to
some support. The flowers appear as a rule within two months
after planting and many of them are produced on a single stem.
Just as soon as the growth dies back, watering must be almost en-
tirely omitted, and after the new bulb is well matured the roots may
be taken from the soil and stored away in a dry spot until fall, for
replanting.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 31

Iris Hispanica
(Spanish Iris).

These require exactly the same treatment as the “Gladiolus
Nanus,” but should be potted or planted in September.

Iris Hollandica
(Dutch Iris).

These are simply an earlier and larger sort of the foregoing and
therefore require exactly the same treatment.

IDSEE

In culture, they require the same as “Iris Hispanica.”

Lachenalia.

A beautiful flower, when grown in masses in a pan. They should
be potted in September, stored in cold frames without freezing, brought
to the the conservatory in January and gently forced.

Lilium Harrisii.

The original Easter Lily and known also as the Bermuda Lily.

The bulbs of these Lilies usually arrive early in August and
should be promptly planted. Try and secure the largest possible
bulb, for the larger the bulb, the surer your success. Fill the pot
but half full with soil and set your bulb upon it, allowing no part of the
top of the bulb to protrude. The top of the bulb should not be above
the rim of the pot. The bulb must fit fairly snug in the pot. After
potting, place the pot in a frame without the sash and cover lightly
with straw; water carefully and regularly every day. It will take
from four to five weeks for the bulb to make roots, but they make
two sets of roots. In addition to the roots below the bulbs, they
produce a set above the crown of the bulb and at the base of the
main stalk; when these upper roots have progressed to two or three
inches it is time to give the plant a larger pot, but great care must
be taken not to disturb the roots below.

The new pot should be so large that the upper roots can be
entirely covered and that even then there is plenty of playroom for
watering, etc., at the same time. There must be additional space
for the roots below as they wish still further increase. They can
then be put back again into the frame until the cold weather sets
in; after that they may either be brought to a cool spot in the con-
servatory or they must be well protected in the frame, for any check
during their progress now would spell almost certain failure.

In the conservatory they should be grown fairly cool until you
can feel the buds by touching the upper part. It is well now and
then to dust sulphur between the leaves to keep the plants in healthy,

32 GROWING BULBS

clean condition, Watering must be religiously observed, but never
must it be overdone, for too much water is just as injurious as not
enough. When the buds can be felt they can be given more heat.
A great deal depends upon when they are wanted in bloom. If they
are desired for Easter, grow them steadily up to the time when the
buds are almost fully developed. From now on they can either be
retarded for a month by placing them in a rather cool and shady
place or they can be forced to full bloom in a few weeks by increas-
ing heat and light and water. A feeding with liquid sheep manure at
regular intervals will improve foliage and flowers.

Lilium Longiflorum Giganteum.

Another species of Easter Lily which is grown in Japan. The
bulbs arrive late in October and should be potted in the manner
suggested for Lilium Harrisii, but must at once be placed in the con-
servatory under the bench. Being started so late they require more
heat from the beginning, but otherwise they respond to all treat-
ments as suggested for the Bermuda Lily.

Lilium Formosum.

Another species of Easter Lily, grown on the Island of Formosa.
The bulbs arrive in August and may be treated exactly like Lilium
Harrisii.

Lilium Longiflorum.

There are two distinct types of this lily, one is grown in
Bermuda, arrives in August and requires the same treatment as
Lilium Harrisii, the other is grown in Japan, arrives in October and
its culture is like that of Lilium Giganteum.

LILIUM MULTIFLORUM, LILIUM PLENTIFLORUM and
several others are only varieties of Lilium Longiflorum and require
the same treatment.

Lilium Candidum.

The Ascension or Madonna Lily. When you buy these insist upon
receiving bulbs grown in the northern part of France, for they are
the only quality which should be used for growing under glass.

The dealer cannot deceive you, for the right bulb is white in
skin, while the inferior kind is pink. These bulbs arrive early in
September and should promptly be potted, using Azalea pots and
planting from four to six bulbs in the proper size pot.

The pots are then plunged in the cold frame and when freezing
weather sets in, they are covered with leaves and the sash. About
January 15th they are taken to the conservatory, where they are
gradually but gently forced. It is not always possible to regulate
their blooming season for Easter, but even if they flower later, they
are welcome.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 33

Lilium Philipinense.

While this lily can easily be forced, I do not recommend it, for
the flower is too large for its slender stem and it always has the
appearance of being top heavy. Furthermore, the bulb is not easily
procurable.

Lilium Myriophyllum.

A native of China, rather recently introduced here by the eminent
Mr. Wilson. A lily, which when more reasonable in price, will out-
rank all the foregoing for either conservatory or garden use.

The bulbs can be procured in early fall and if treated like Lilium
nd ah a but forced only in cool houses, they produce splendid

owers.

Lilium Sargentei.

A companion to the foregoing variety and requiring the same
treatment.

Lilium Speciosum.

All the sorts of this class can readily be grown under glass for
flowering in June.

The bulbs arrive in November and after being potted they are
best stored for a couple of months in cold frames, where they must
be well protected from frost by sashes and leaves.

Heat must be gradual and gentle at first.

Cold Storage Lilies.

Cut lilies are constantly in demand and are always welcome, and
for this reason cold storage lilies have sprung into existence. By
this method cut lilies can be had every day in the year. Cut lilies
are a splendid material for large vases. Their chastity and purity
add grace and lustre to the most refined home.

The most popular lily of this class is Lilium Giganteum, in ad-
dition the following varieties may be had: Lilium Speciosum Roseum,
Rubrum, Meelpomene, Magnificum and Album.

The bulbs in order to keep well are especially packed in Japan
for this purpose, and when they arrive they are immediately placed
in cold storage.

They cannot be purchased in small quantities as a broken box is
worthless. Once the original case is opened the entire contents must
be promptly potted and immediately placed on the bench for the
roots and topgrowth will materialize simultaneously. No time should
be lost in opening the shipment when it arrives, for delay in this
action does not improve the bulb, but on the contrary it will make
it unfit for use. If these bulbs are started during the sum-

34 GROWING BULBS

ee _____ EEE

mer months they may be placed in the cold frame after potting, where
they do better than in the extremely hot conservatory. The crop of a
case of cold storage lilies is not produced simultaneously, but one
hundred bulbs may extend the flowering season over a whole month.
The time required to get a cold storage lily bulb to flower varies
with the time of year it is planted. The following is a planting table
compiled by the eminent authority on lilies, Mr. Ralph M. Ward.

Planting Table.

The following dates are approximate only and are given merely
as a suggestion. The time is based on the amount consumed by the
average grower under average conditions. More or less heat will
shorten or lengthen the time in forcing accordingly.

Lilium Giganteum.

Approximate Flowering

Planting Dates. Time.

January 2 1st: s.:250 ss sicaieneene April 15th to 25th
Wanuanyeloth A acchiseec cette: April 25th to May 5th
Hebruary,) GUst 22.2... ieeicmtein oie seater May 5th to 15th
RebruaryalSthetin saccharine May 15th to 30th
March eesti cracpais cues eeevsictiectetee ieee June 1st to 15th
March isthe ss: 2 ace serine cere June 15th to 30th
Aprile 1st nec sctirs asc sctaedam eae July ist to 15th
April Gy Sth etic scterhorereusotecisrertee cies July 15th to 30th
Mays -1Sts sti nse.. ncestctiea, veils faeces August Ist to 10th
May ai sth sce atracg nie ciccwerarioninn August 10th to 25th
Une elStee oe a eeen August 25th to September 10th
June: 1Sth.\siteck vest ae oe September 10th to 25th
July; Vistu eae ek ee September 25th to October 10th
July oUSthey ise steers cecccrens eitrsteies October 10th to 30th
Auvsust alist harccrenyaienitns oie fers November Ist to 15th
Angust slSth ttc pec sie ccur November 15th to 30th
September Ist. ..20s-s ace ence December 1st to 15th
September. US5ths sete. c0e as oe December 15th to 30th
October sister... we ees January ist to 15th
October lSthic. eerste oeeese January 15th to 30th
November, Gist... eee eee February Ist to 15th
November’ 15thiis.).2 -creewieteee February 15th to 30th
December lst ls.) e ee eee ee March Ist to 15th
December U5th: «005.552. 0:08 March 15th to 30th

The above pertains to Cold Storage Giganteum only. To force
other Japanese lilies an additional time of eight weeks should be
allowed.

Cold storage bulbs never produce as many flowers as the same
sized bulbs of fresh stock.

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 35

Lilies of the Valley.

Lilies of the Valley are grown in Germany and exported to all
parts of the world. The single crown or pip is the ideal subject for
flowering under glass. There are three distinct strains of these flow-
ers. The “Dresden” Valley is grown near Dresden and should be
used first. It requires little or no freezing. All types arrive early in
December and “Dresden” is the only kind to use in January and
February. The best method is to grow them in solid sand in a deep
bench, which can be screened in on the sides and the top to exclude
all light, and where they have heat in the bottom. They must be
started at gentle heat and same gradually increased until finally they
can stand all the heat the conservatory is able to produce. When the
foliage and flowers have grown to the desired height light may be
admitted and the rather light colored leaves will promptly turn green
and the bells pure white. A crop of flowers should readily be pro-
duced in 21 days and if plantings are made at regular intervals of a
fortnight there should be no interruption of a flowering season.

The “Berlin” pip must be placed in cold storage and should be
used between May and September.

The “Hamburg” pip endures cold storage the longest and pro-
duces excellent flowers when grown from September until January.

Nerines.

They are only suitable for conservatory culture and belong to
the family of Amaryllis. They are in flowering habit exactly like
Amaryllis Belladonna and require same treatment. Try and procure
potted bulbs which have flowered the fall previous, for such bulbs
are the most valuable.

Ranunculus.

A great favorite with the Parisians. The flowers resemble the
double buttercup, in fact they belong to that family. The culture of
these flowers is exactly like that of Anemone Coronaria.

Sparaxis.

In form they resemble greatly the Ixia and in culture they are
identical with it.

Spirea
(Astilboides).

A hardy perennial, which is a splendid flower to force into bloom
in conservatories during early spring. The dormant roots are chopped
in clumps from the soil and the soil remains on the roots when they
arrive here in November. According to their size, they are planted
in the most suitable sized pot and stored in the cold frame until Jan-

36 GROWING BULBS

uary, when they are slowly thawed out and placed under benches to
start. Later they are placed in direct light, and if forced in gentle
heat (say 55 degrees to 60 degrees in the daytime) they give the maxi-
mum of result. Careful but regular watering must be given, because
if neglected only for a single day the plant may become stunted and
produce an indifferent flower. The newer varieties are exceedingly
beautiful and decorative.

Tropaeolum Juaretti.

A tender miniature vine, which is exceedingly pretty and deco-
rative. The perfectly globular bulb, of which four should be planted
in a six-inch pan, produces a very slender vine with beautifully round-
ish serrated leaves and very small, bright scarlet, Nasturtium-like
flower. A slender bamboo rod should be set next to each bulb so
that the vine can find a support for its tendrils, but the vine itself
should be trained to make circles combining all the supports, for only
then can the right effect be produced.

Watsonia.

The bulb and the growth, as well as flowers and spikes, have all
the appearance of a gladiolus. But being a native of the warmer
climates of Africa, and as its flowering season is in early spring, it
requires culture under glass.

Bulbs may either be potted or planted in open benches about 3
inches below the surface. The temperature for these bulbs must never
exceed 55 degrees; they are of easiest possible culture.

The foregoing constitutes simply a summary of special families
or species of bulbs, which are used for growing under glass. Again
I want to reiterate that all such bulbs as are suitable for growing in
dwellings and enumerated previously should also be added to this
list as they succeed even better here than in a dwelling.

Many amateurs live under the impression that bulbs used for
forcing or growing in the house can be utilized again if they are cured
according to a fashion. This is an erroneous idea.

All such bulbs as are usually recommended for naturalizing might
be retained in pots until spring time, when they may be planted in
borders, grass or woods, but even then the result is problematical.

At any rate bulbs once forced are worthless for the same purpose.

Por

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT

HEN we speak of out-of-door gardens we mass under one

name many different and distinct situations, as the following

division will soon prove, but this is really where fully 95 per
cent. of all bulbs are used and I am trying therefore to treat this
subject perhaps more thoroughly than some might think essential.
Again I must emphasize the fact that through this book I am try-
ing to reach the flower-lover who has been groping in the dark in
his past experience and if through this treatise I have enabled him
to see daylight I feel fully repaid for the extra labor involved.

In the following chapter I have taken the liberty of reprinting
extracts from “Studies of Gardening,” a book which is now out of
print and as no author of it is known I cannot extend the usual
courtesy, but will frankly acknowledge whenever I quote.

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 39

The Ornamental Garden

N “Studies of Gardening,” a book which evidently has an unknown
author and which is now out of print, appears an article entitled,
“The Treatment of Bulbs.” This article has been written by

someone who like myself knows the imperfection of the amateur
gardener, sympathizes with him and is trying to help and uplift him.
This article is so excellent and timely that I must acknowledge my
own inability to improve upon it.

The Treatment of Bulbs.

Writing lately upon the use of bulbs in the border we said that
the secret of that use was to contrast them with plants of a different
growth. This is also true, we think, of their use in every part of the
garden. The beauty of monocotyledonous plants is usually altogether
different in character from the beauty of dicotyledonous plants; more
simple, fugitive, and strange. Now the term bulb is a vague one,
especially as it is used in nurserymen’s catalogues, where it is often
applied to any kind of tuberous or fleshy root, whether of a mono-
cotyledonous or a dicotyledonous plant. But in this article we shall
use it, not in the narrowest possible sense, but only of mono-
cotyledonous plants with bulbous roots which are dormant for a
certain period of the year; and we shall use it thus, not for any
scientific reason, but because we wish to suggest certain principles
for the treatment of such plants in the garden, based both upon the
character of their beauty and upon the habit of remaining dormant
for a certain period of the year.

The purpose of the old-fashioned treatment of the best known
bulbous plants, such as Tulips, Hyacinths and Narcissi, was to pro-
duce a great blaze of blossom for a short time. They were planted
by themselves in regiments; and when they were out of flower they
were taken up to make room for other plants. This treatment took
no heed of their individual beauty of form. Each plant was con-
sidered only as contributing to a great mass of color, and certainly
these masses of color were very splendid. But a great part of the
beauty of a Tulip consists in its form, in the shape of its flower, the
manner in which it carries its flower, and the contrast between the
shape and carriage of the flower and the shape and carriage of the
leaves. All this beauty was lost when Tulips were arranged in regi-
ments. But, on the other hand, it must be admitted that a single
Tulip is too small and too simple in its form to produce much effect
in any arrangement of flowers; and this is true also of most bulbous
plants; besides this, their flowering period is usually short. There-
fore, if we are to make the best possible use of their beauty, we must
arrange them so that a great part of that beauty may not be lost in
a blaze of color, but also so that it may not be frittered away by
too scattered planting. The best way to do this is to combine them
with plants of a very different habit of growth and character of
flowers; and of such combinations there is an infinite variety. We
have spoken of the difference in the beauty of monocotyledonous and

40 GROWING BULBS

dicotyledonous plants. That difference is a fortunate fact in Nature,
by means of which she produces some of her most exquisite con-
trasts; and it is the gardener’s business to observe such contrasts
and to base his own arrangements upon them. We have said that
monocotyledonous plants are apt to be more simple, fugitive, and
strange in their beauty than dicotyledonous plants; and the gardener
should attempt to contrast simplicity with complexity, Fegicvenees
with permanence, and strangeness with familiarity. This he may do
in many different ways. He may, to take one of the most obvious,
plant his Tulips among Pansies or Forget-me-nots, so that they will
rise through the contrasting carpet of less simple leaved flowers, as
Daffodils rise through the grass. A hundred Tulips all of the same
kind so planted wili not lose any of their beauty of form, since it
will be emphasized by the contrasting beauty of the carpeting plants;
and it is only by means of an arrangement of this kind that the true
beauty of Hyacinths can be seen. Many people condemn them as
stiff; and, indeed, when they are planted out in rows by themselves
they are as stiff as a row of Lombardy Poplars. But as the beauty
of the Lombardy Poplar only shows itself in contrast with trees of
a more spreading growth, so the beauty of the Hyacinth only shows
itself in the same kind of contrast. No one would think of growing
Bluebells in regiments, because we are all familiar with the manner
in which Nature grows them. But the regimental system is even more
fatal to the beauty of the garden Hyacinth.

This plan of carpeting bulbs with other plants of a very different
habit is now very general, but not so universal as it should be. Many
people who are delighted with the beauty of bulbs in the grass will
yet grow the same bulbs in beds or borders on the old regimental
system, and they do this, probably, because they think it saves trouble
to the gardener. It is so easy to fill a bed with Tulips in the autumn
and then to lift them when they have gone out of flower to make
room for summer bedding. But it is just as easy to combine them
with plants such as Pansies, Forget-me-nots, the double Arabis, and
many early flowering annuals, which may be removed at the same
time to make room for the summer bedding.”

Progress in methods of gardening have been exceedingly slow
in the past and one would have to expect the impossible if all the
recommendations made in the foregoing article were at once adopted
universally and the old-fashioned methods entirely discarded.

In view of this fact it is necessary to give ‘here a few of the
usual methods adopted in the growing of bulbs in everybody’s garden.

The Average Country Garden.

A flower bed, or what is known as such, is either in the form of
a circle, or oblong, or square, or in ornamental shapes as stars,
crescents or ribbons.

The circle is more common than others and is usually in the
centre of the lawn. There may be several of these in an average
garden.

Here we will find during summer our popular tropical bedding
plants such as Salvias, Cannas, Geraniums, etc. When frost has

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 4]

killed the plants (about October or November) more as a rule in
November the beds are cleared for the planting of bulbs for a spring
display. Hyacinths, Tulips and Daffodils usually vie with each other
in these beds.

The first thing I must complain about is this—Why wait until
the frost has killed the bedding plants, because bulbs cannot be as
good in November as they are in early October and what is more
important? How can these bulbs be expected to make a set of roots
before winter sets in and this is one of the points required if the
full value of the bulb is to be obtained.

I admit it takes courage to destroy an effective bed of flowers if
you own them, but it is the old story of eating the cake and still
possessing it; it cannot be done. For the sake of one pleasure we
must sacrifice another.

Plant as early as possible (September is even better than Ocio-
ber) if you want to get real results from your bulbs.

After bedding plants have been removed, cover your bed with a
liberal quantity of well decayed cow manure, and if this is not obtain-
able use “Pulverized Cattle Manure,” a very inexpensive and efficient
bulb food, and spade the bed then thoroughly and quite deep for
the manure or fertilizer must not come in contact with the bulb.

Bulbs must never be planted in beds which are not thoroughly
drained or where the water stays long in the spring time, for such
conditions spell absolute death to the bulbs.

It is advisable to form the beds sloping from the centre to the
edge, for this will cause the surplus moisture to run off, particularly
when the snow melts in the spring time.

Instead of using a dibber and planting bulbs in the hole, I sug-
gest a far better method. Make the beds about four inches lower
than you have designed it to be when finally finished. On this sur-
face arrange your bulbs either in the form of a design or a combi-
nation of color just as you have planned and press the base of your
bulbs firmly into the soil so that it stands upright; then cover your
bed with pure sharp sand to a depth of four inches. This method
has the following advantages: First—Your bulbs are absolutely at
equal depths. Second—Under those conditions they must reappear
in uniformity. And third—It acts as additional drainage so that sur-
plus moisture finds a ready exit.

The next question arises, how far apart bulbs should be planted?
The solving of this question rests entirely with the individual, but
this much cannot be disputed if solid effects are desired. Tulips
should not be farther apart than four inches; Daffodils, five inches,
and Hyacinths, six inches.

The size of the bulbs should also come into consideration. For
ordinary garden effect the “Second Size” Hyacinth will answer, but
Tulips and Daffodils should be of the largest possible size. As to
varieties it is utterly impossible to treat this subject here for it would
require a book by itself and the progressive bulb books of the up-
to-date seedsmen as a rule contain this information.

Color, height and season of blooming must be carefully con-
sidered if more than one variety is combined in a single bed.

In Hyacinths, varieties should be selected which produce an erect
spike and not such as are top heavy, and must be supported.

42 GROWING BULBS

In Tulips, heights and season of blooming are the important
factors to consider.

Daffodils should never be mixed in a bed, but only one variety
in one place gives the best result.

The Protection During Winter.

I do not recommend the use of manure such as is commonly
practised for this has been the cause of more trouble than satisfaction.
The best protection is either dry leaves, salthay or straw pinned
down by boughs of evergreens. The latter in itself is sufficient. No
protection should ever be given until the cold weather sets in.
Protection is not required for the purpose of keeping frost out, but
mainly to keep the frost in and its real worth is manifested in March
when warm spells thaw the ground and encourage the bulbs to come
through, only to be nipped by the first cold night. Do not remove
the covering at the first sign of spring nor let it remain too long,
but judge by weather conditions.

A sprinkling of pulverized sheep manure over the bed as soon
as the covering has been removed will help materialy to improve the
size of flowers.

The average gardener is anxious to get more than one season’s
growth from his bulbs, but he is not willing to do what is asked of
him in order to cure the bulbs for another year’s effect.

The foliage of the bulbs should have entirely shriveled before
the bulbs are lifted and this as a rule takes place in July, but who is
willing to wait so long and to look at a barren bed and July is too
late to plant out the bedding plants.

If these bulbs therefore are lifted prematurely they can never be
expected to give the same results again and I suggest that they are
used for naturalizing between shrubbery and that new bulbs are
planted annually to dress our ornamental beds.

The Italian Garden.

Here the use of regimental beds of gaily colored Hyacinths and
Tulips and the golden Daffodils find the setting that nature seems
to have designed for them. The very fields of Holland with their
squares of scarlet and yellow and blue and gold and the tender
shades of pink and lavender and white can be duplicated here.

The real effects, though can only be achieved through masses,
and quantity counts here more than quality.

Close planting is essential. Color combinations may be suggested,
but after all they should be the product of the individual and the
expressions of his own taste. A study of varieties, their character,
heights, flowering season and color is absolutely essential to create
the most pleasing effects.

The carpeting of other flowers through which these bulbous
flowers rise add a particular charm to this style of garden and should
be universally followed. But another effect I have in mind which
the author of “Studies in Gardening” has entirely overlooked. If
between the Hyacinths and the Tulips and the Daffodils you plant
“Pushkinnias” thickly so as to carpet the unfilled spaces a perfect

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 43

carpet of “heavenly blue” will greet your eye the first thing in the
spring, long before the leaves of the Hyacinths or Tulips or Daffodils
can spoil the effect.

By a careful selection of varieties and material the gay bulb
season can be extended from earliest April until early June.

Pushkinnias appear first, then follow in rapid succession Crocuses,
Scillas, Hyacinths, the Single Early Tulips, Jonquils, Single Late
Tulips, Daffodils, Double Tulips, Poets Narcissus and Darwin Tulips.
All these are showy species and fit within the borders of a well
designed Italian Garden.

The methods of culture differs from that as described for the
country garden, in that the Crocuses and Pushkinnias should be
planted but one inch deep.

The Hardy Border.

Again I wish to submit here an extract from “Studies in Garden-
ing,” as follows:

In the herbaceous border, however, the problem of the right use
of bulbs is less easy; and yet it is not very difficult. True, there are
many bulbs which are best lifted as soon as they die down, and there
are others which resent disturbance at the very time when the border
may need to be dug over. But both these difficulties may be over-
come with a little contrivance and foresight. Take, for instance, the
country garden, in that the Crocuses and Pushkinnias should be
lifted at least every other year. These may be planted in consider-
able masses among carpeting plants or in clumps of eight or ten
surrounded with plants that will contrast with them; and they may
be taken up without difficulty when they have died down, and with-
out injuring the plants about them. The arrangement in clumps is
best suited to the taller May flowering Tulips and to other tall bulbs
such as the Camassias, English and Spanish Irises, Crown Imperial
Lilies, most of the true Lilies, and Snowdrops. Some of these,
especially Madonna Lilies, resent disturbance, and it is the bulbs
which resent disturbance that we have learned to grow in the most
beautiful and rational way. No doubt, if Madonna Lilies could be
treated like Tulips, they would often be bedded out like Tulips, and
all their beauty would be spoiled. As it is, we grow them in the
border and treat them like herbaceous plants, with excellent results.
We should extend the same treatment to other bulbous plants, so
far as their needs will allow. Thus, the May flowering Tulips should
be planted in clumps of eight or ten at regular intervals along a
border, and if a hundred or more of the same kind—say, of Gesneriana
or Picotee—are then planted in the same border, they will produce
a brilliant effect of color just when it is most needed, whether in
contrast with flowering plants about them such as Wallflower or
Forget-me-nots, or with shrubs not yet in flower, such as Lavender
or Santolina. And, if necessary, they may be lifted when they die
down, just as Wallflowers and Forget-me-nots are taken up when
ne go out of flower, and other plants or bulbs may be put in their
place.

The contrast between the grey foliage of shrubs, such as Lavender
or Santolina or Southernwood, and the brilliant flowers of bulbs,

a4 GROWING BULBS

such as English and Spanish Irises, and some of the smaller Lilies,
is always most effective; and the beauty of the contrast depends as
much upon the difference of character in the plants as upon difference
of color. The bulbs, with their fugitive brilliance, seem to have
sought the protection of the more enduring shrubs. And this is not
altogether fancy in some cases; for Lilies never thrive so well as when
they are close to shrubs, not only because the shrubs protect them
from frost when their growth is young and tender, but because they
like a very rooty soil. Thus, both for horticultural and aesthetic
reasons, it is well to grow Lilies such as L. calcedonicum and L.
pomponium close to shrubs such as Lavender or Santolina or Rose-
mary; and both the beauty and the health of the Lilies will be im-
proved by the association. Among such shrubs also may be grown
the different kinds of Gladioli, particularly the early flowering ones,
which should be planted in the autumn and which will get valuable
protection from the shrubs when their growth first appears in the
winter. The later Gladioli, if so treated, may take the place of Tulips
when they are lifted, and shrubs will be much less dangerous neigh-
bours to them than herbaceous plants which, especially in wet sum-
mers, often grow with incalculable rapidity. If bulbs are associated
with herbaceous plants the best effect will be obtained where there
is the greatest contrast of growth. Thus bulbs which throw up tall
straight spikes of bloom should not be planted among herbaceous
plants which flower in the same way, but rather among plants of an
altogether different habit—for instance, Gladioli among Gypsophilas;
Madonna Lilies among the lilac flowered Goatsrue (Galega); Orange
Lilies (L. croceum) with Erigeron Speciosus; Lilium Elegans with
Linum Perenne or Nepeta Mussini (Catmint); Tiger Lilies with
Eryngiums; Snowdrops with the pink Lavatera Trimestris, and so on.
But in all such combination care must be taken not to place bulbs
too close to some herbaceous plant that will make a strong growth
before they do, and so smother them before they have a chance of
asserting themselves.

The later and larger growing bulbs are much easier to deal with
in the border than the many little bulbs that flower early in the
spring and then die down and remain dormant until autumn. It is
possible, of course, to lift bulbs like Crocuses, Scilla Siberica, Scilla
Bifolia, the Chionodoxias, the Puschkinnias, and the Muscaris as soon
as they are dormant, and to plant them again in the autumn. But
it is a troublesome business; and many of them do better if left
undisturbed. Yet, though they make the border beautiful in early
spring, they leave blank spaces just when it is expected to be fullest.
If they are to be grown in the border they can be covered with
Sedum album, which will not interfere with their growth, and which
is green all the winter and very pretty when in flower. In this case
they must be planted well in the front of the border as the Sedum,
if it is to do well and flower, must not be overshadowed by other
plants. But, indeed, these smaller bulbs always do best in the front
of the border, as they are apt to be forgotten and dug up if they
are among large herbaceous plants, and also they do not get the
summer sun which most of them need to ripen them. It is also
possible, of course, to sow some low growing hardy annual over them,
especially over the Scillas and Chionodoxas, which like to be planted

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 45

deep in a light soil. But this is not so easy to manage with Crocuses,
which like to be planted just under the surface. The best plan of all,
perhaps, with these little bulbs is to plant the Crocuses and Muscaris
in the grass, where they will thrive, and the Scillas and Chionodoxas
and Pushkinnias on some sunny bank which they can have to them-
selves. Such a bank may be carpeted with Sedum with excellent
effects. Scilla Siberica may also be grown in the grass, where it is
not too thick and coarse; but it usually thrives better under a Sedum.

When the foregoing was written the author evidently had not
yet recognized the “Darwin Tulip” as the most popular bulbous
flower to be used in borders.

It is wonderful how popular this majestic Tulip has become
within the last three years and yet one should not be surprised for
its merits deserve its popularity. Art shades such as mauve, wistaria,
lilac, lavender, bronze and purple are found in all tones among hun-
Greds of varieties offered today.

I shall refrain from suggesting superior up-to-date varieties, for
the introduction of scores of novelties each season would make any
selection obsolete in a comparatively short time.

Darwin Tulips in the hardy border should be planted with the
set purpose in mind never to disturb them unless they have degen-
erated into poor unsightly flowers; then they should be lifted and
discarded and new bulbs should take their place. Before planting
Darwin Tulips the spot where they are intended to be planted should
be well prepared by removing the soil to a depth of two feet and
placing in the bottom a layer of well decayed stable manure, fully
six inches deep. The balance of the soil to be replaced should be
well mixed with ground bone, but where the bulbs are set the soil
must be pure. Darwin Tulips should be set six inches deep so that
you can plant annuals such as Lavatera or Gypsophila right over
them when they have ceased bloorning.

What would otherwise be a barren spot can be a sheet of color
for the balance of the season. Next to the “Darwin Tulips” the
other classes of late flowering Tulips should be more frequently
employed; for instance, the Rembrandt Tulip with its wonderful
markings, the Breeder Tulip with its sombre color, the Bybloomen
and Bizarres with its fantastic stripes and flakes, the newer sorts
of Cottage Garden or May Tulips which are as gay as the “Swiss
Sennerin,” and last but not least the family or species of Wild
Tulips, these more than all the others are by nature fitted for the
hardy border for all perennials are only cultivated wild flowers. The
Wild Tulips do wonders when they receive a taste of prosperity,
and some varieties are without doubt superior in colors, markings and
effectiveness to all the cultivated sorts. Tulipa Kaufmanniana, T.
Thubergeniana, T. Sprengeri, T. Clusiana, T. Greigi and many others
are real jewels among flowers.

The selection for the hardy border is more extensive than for
any other purpose in gardening and all of them should be used to
make the border truly what it was planned to be, “the roaming place
for all hardy flowers.”

The list which follows comprises nearly every family of bulbs
which can be utilized in the border, and where the culture differs from

46 GROWING BULBS

what has already been stated it is given under the heading of “Family
of Bulbs” with the very variety named.
Allium.
Anemone Apennina.
Anemone Hepatica (prefers shade).
Anemone Nemorosa (prefers shade).
Anemone Pulsatilla.
Bulbocodium Vernon.
Crocus (both spring and fall blooming).
Cyclamen (hardy).
Camassia.
Chionodoxia (Glory of the Snow).
Daffodils (all classes).
Eranthus Hyemalis (Winter Aconite).
Eremurus (King’s Spear).
Erythroniums (Dog’s Tooth Violet).
Fritillaria Imperialis (Crown Imperials).
Fritillaria Meleagris (Guinea-Hen Flower).
Feathered Hyacinths (Muscari Plumosum).
Galanthus (Snowdrops).
Grape Hyacinths (Muscari Botryoides).
Helleborus Niger (Christmas Rose).
Iris Pumila. Plant in August.
Iris Germanica (German Iris). Plant in August.
Iris Hispanica (Spanish Iris).
Iris Hollandica (Dutch Iris).
Iris Anglica (English Iris).
Iris Sibirica (Siberian Iris). Plant in August.
Iris Kaempferi (Japan Iris). Plant in August.
Lilies. There is almost an unlimited list of varieties suitable for
this purpose and as some of them require special culture, I refer to
the chapter that deals with the “Family of Bulbs” for further infor-
mation.
Lily of the Valley. Plant in November.
Musk Hyacinths (Muscari Moschatum).
Montbretias.
Narcissi, all sorts except the Polyanthus class.
Ornithogallum (Star of Bethlehem).
Puschkinnia.
Paeonies.
Sternbergia.
Scilla.
Snowdrops. See Galanthus.
Spirea (Astilbe).
Snowflakes (Leucojum).
Tulips. Darwin.
i Rembrandt.
Cottage or May.
Breeder.
Bizarre.
Bybloomen.
Species of wild sorts.
Parrot.

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 47

Trollius.

Trilliums. ; :

Special features of some of the bulbs enumerated in the preceding
list exist as to their culture and these are fully described under the
respective headings in the chapter of “The Family of Bulbs.”

The Rockgarden.

This style of garden, while yet an unknown quantity in this coun-
try, will in the writer’s opinion become one of the most popular styles
of gardening in the future. Some of the most lovely hardy plants
are only at home in the rockery, and this holds particularly true of
the smaller bulbous flowers. The well-built rockery can provide every
condition these flowers demand; for instance, drainage and protection.
The species of wild Tulips also known as Mountain Tulips find here
the exact duplicate of their native home and many varieties can be
made permanent here. Their season of blooming extends over a
long period of time, even of a single variety, so that when planted
in clumps one finds some of them in flower, some in bud and some
already past.

Tulipa Kaufmaniana does exceedingly well here, for it needs
sharp drainage. It was introduced only a few years ago and is almost
the earliest to flower and the most beautiful of all tulips. Early in
April or sometimes in March its blossoms begin to open, at first
creamy white and then flushed with pink on the outside, while the
inside has a golden centre like that of a water-lily. It seems to
withstand the severe weather well and it is not unusual to see its great
blossoms open above snow-covered ground. Tulipa Biflora, a beau-
tiful little species with several white blossoms on a stalk is another
beauty. Tulipa Lownei, a dwarf tulip with delicate pink blossoms,
and T. Pulchella, a pretty red tulip marked inside like a calochortus,
seems to thrive here. Tulipa Linifolia, rather late, when planted in
large clusters appears like a glow of scarlet. All these bulbs look
best rising through a carpet of Sedum, whose roots are too shallow
to interfere with the bulbs and whose leaves are not thick enough to
prevent them from ripening well in the summer.

In fact, all the species usually offered may with safety be adopted
for the rockgarden.

There is a class of Daffodils that by nature must have been de-
signed for such a garden, for this style of garden demands flowers
which are rather prostrate or dwarf in habit of growth, and inva-
riably with such plants the flowers are rather of miniature size.

The following varieties I should recommend: Tenby Daffodil,
Princeps, Queen of Spain, Cyclamineus, all varieties of Bulbocodiums,
Triandus Albus, Nelsoni Minor, Jonquillas, Juncifolius, Diomedes
Minor, and Montanus Poculiformis. Of Hyacinths the class of Mus-
caris are ideal, such as Grape Hyacinths, Feathered Hyacinths and
Muscari Azureum, the latter flowering as early as February if weather
permits.

Of other suitable subjects I suggest all the following: Alliums
(all kinds), Anemone Apenina, Anemone Hepatica, Anemone Nemo-
rosa, Anemone Pulsatilla, Bulbocodium Vernum, Crocus (spring and

48 GROWING BULBS

fall), Hardy Cyclamen, Camassia, Chionodoxia, Eranthus Hyemalis,
Erythroniums, Fritillaria Meleagris, Galanthus (Snowdrops), Iris
Pumila, Lilium Tenuifolium, Ornithogallum, Puschkinnia, Sternbergia,
Scilla, Snowflakes, Trollius and Trillium. All of these only look well
if planted in clusters of six or more. By distributing these early spring
flowers the rockery can be made gayest in April, when most plants
are still enjoying their winter slumber.

The Meadow or Lawn.

Although the selection of bulbs i is identical for both situations, we
cannot lose sight of the fact that in order to make a bulb mature for
another season’s blooms the foliage should not be disturbed until at
least six weeks have passed after their blooming spell; but we cannot
afford to let our lawn be untidy and we must mow it, and in conse-
quence we can use but few varieties of bulbs, and of course only
those which either flower very early or which grow very dwarf. For
this reason I recommend for lawns as follows:

e Snowdrops, Crocus, Scilla Siberica, Grape Hyacinths and Pusch-
innias.

The old-fashioned way of planting a single bulb with a dibber
should be discarded, for not only does it disturb the lawn, but it pro-
duces an effect which is entirely too artificial. We must try to have
these flowers appear just as they do naturally, in colonies with a few
stragglers in the near vicinity; some may appear as if they had wan-
dered away from their family. Such effects are easily accomplished
in the following simple manner: Take as many Crocus bulbs as two
hands put together will hold and drop them naturally to the ground.
The very position which they occupy when they fall to the ground
should be their place of planting. Where they are close together
employ the spade and lift the sod (nothing more) from one side,
put in the bulbs and press the sod back in its original condition.
Most of these little bulbs are planted too deep, which accounts not
only for the fact that they do poorly, but that they soon entirely dis-
appear. All of these bulbs should be planted in September (not later)
if we want them to do well.

The small sized bulbs of Crocus, which are usually offered by
seedsmen should never be tolerated in the garden, for their cheapness
makes them very expensive. Rather grow fewer, but try and procure
the largest bulbs. No other bulb perhaps is used in larger quantities
than the Crocus and so we should try to get material which will give
us the maximum result. Within the last few years some wonderful
new varieties of Crocuses have been introduced, which in size rival
the smaller tulips and appear in colors which have never been known
before. Antique rose, mauve, lavender and reddish purple are some
of the newer shades.

For the meadow, of course I can suggest a much more varied
selection not only for spring flowering, but also some which flower
in summer and fall. For spring flowering:

Foremost is the Poet Narcissus, almost all of the Daffodils, both
single and double (Princeps, Von Sion, Johnstoni, Golden Spur and
Palladus Praecox are especially well suited), Tulipa Sylvestris, Grape

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 49

Hyacinths, Camassia, Summer Snowflakes, Scilla Siberica, Chiono-
doxia, Puschkinnia, Alliums, Fritillaria Meleagris and Imperialis, Lilies
(particularly the native sorts), Iris Siberica and, finally, Colchicums,
which here is in its native heath. Meadows as a rule are mown in
September and shortly afterwards the Meadow Saffron (Colchicum)
bedecks the verdure with its massive flowers of lavender pink.

The suggestion given for planting in lawns might just as well
be followed for the meadows.

The Woods.

Not everyone is fortunate enough to have woodland in the vicin-
ity a the home, but those who have surely can enjoy paradise om
earth.

What is more inspiring when strolling through woodland than
to have your eyes feast upon an army of blossom, all eager to reach
up and greet you? The heart of man must indeed be made of stone
if such a sight does not awaken a feeling of enthusiasm, which should
find expression only in silent admiration for all that is beautiful
in nature.

In certain countries of Europe certain days in the spring are set
gids for people’s holidays to make pilgrimages to the woods to gather

owers.

“Pfingstmonday” in Germany is religiously observed by almost
everybody; cities and towns by noontime are almost entirely depop-
ulated. The family pack up their luncheon, to the woods they go
and here they enjoy a day that no king can duplicate. I shall never
forget how I used to eagerly wait for the first Lily of the Valley to
peep through the ground and then every day I would go to the woods
so as not to miss the first flower.

The fascinating feature about flowers in the woods is, that we
must hunt for them, for we never know the exact spot from year to
year.

Rich indeed is the man who can carpet his woodlands with every-
thing that will grow there, for he will enjoy a reward that cannot
be measured by wealth.

No one should undertake to plant here the bulbous flowers unless
he is willing to colonize them by the thousands.

In the thickets and the dense woods, we find the Lily of the
Valley and the Solomon’s Seal. We find the Fritillaria and the
Erythroniums, all the Anemones mentioned before, the Scilla Campa-
nulata and the Scilla Nutans, Ornithogallums and Trilliums. Wher-
ever light can penetrate we can mass Snowdrops, Scilla Siberica, Grape
Hyacinths, Puschkinnias and all of the Daffodils. On the outskirts
of woods we can mass our native Lilies, Crown Imperials, Camassias,
Daffodils, the Christmas Rose and Iris. Each one finds here shelter,
moisture, rest, and can roam at will.

The Lake and Brookside.

The finest lakeside planting existing today is at the Ames Estate
at North Easton. One would imagine that millions of Poet Daffodils

50 GROWING BULBS

have been employed to create the effect. As far as your eye can
reach you behold these clean and happy faces, and when you see the
swans majestically glide over the mirrored waters you dream of pic-
tures which then are real. Nothing in my mind can surpass the Poet
Daffodils for this purpose.

But clusters of Crocuses, Snowdrops, Puschkinnias and Scillas
not too near the edge of the water will enliven the scenery before the
Daffodils made their appearance; in fact, all of the subjects as men-
tioned for meadows or edges of woods can be utilized.

Japan Iris perhaps can portray to us here the landscape of Japan
in July, but they should be planted as if nature had put them there.

The Fall and Winter Garden.

Who wants to think of the last rose of summer, or what gar-
dener is glad when winter comes and he, like his flowers, can go to
sleep to await the awakening of nature in the spring?

Who does not cherish the Witchhazel blossom in February or
the first Snowdrop in March?

But why not make our gardens richer with flowers that are apt
to peep through in the late fall or winter, when the country is barren
and we cling to that last rose of summer as if it was the only thing left
to us?

With proper selection of material one can have something in
bloom from November until April. Start with Sternbergia; planted
in October, its bright golden Fairylily like flowers cover the ground
in November; the Colchicums planted in September are still gay in
colors; Crocus speciosus is just coming into bloom and C. Sativus and
C. Zonatus follow it in December.

If you have a clump of evergreens facing the south, or you have
a warm border on the south side of the house, plant a few bulbs of
Crocus Imperati and its blue blossoms will greet you the first sunny
days in January and as often in the month as we have sunny days.

f you have a cluster of trees under which the cold winds find
no entrance, plant a few clumps of Christmas Roses (Helleborus).
Even through the snow they will push their cheery faces of white
and say “Hello” to you in February. Other species of Crocus would
flower every week in the winter if a sheltered nook, where the sun
can reach them, was chosen for them; and so we could make our
garden so interesting during the winter that there would be no need
of putting it out of our memory for three to four months.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS

N the following chapter it is my intention to bring to the notice
of my readers a very complete story of all such bulbs that can be
employed in the cultures described in the foregoing pages. I do
not plan though to give here an encyclopedia of every existing vari-
ety, for many there are which will never be at home amongst the
amateur gardeners, for whose exclusive benefit this book is written.

To facilitate reference to this list I have arranged it in strict
alphabetical order.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 53

Agapanthus

(African Lily).

ROM a roundish base rise in the centre broad, sword-like leaves
fully 24 to 30 inches long, which curve gracefully. During early
summer from the centre of the leaves emanate several stout,

straight, fleshy stalks to a height of 30 inches, which are crowned
with a whorl of lily-like flowers.

It is a plant which is intended exclusively for the conservatory,
but when in bloom it is a splendid ornament for the lawn or near the
approach to the house or on the veranda.

The culture is very simple. Try and secure growing plants in the
fall, place them in the conservatory, but water them only sparingly
until the flower-stalk makes its appearance. From now on water
must be freely applied and once a week a good quantity of liquid
manure as a food will materially help to produce the best flowers.
While the flowers are forming the plants must never want for water
and a good way is to set the pot or tub into a larger tub and fill the
vacant space with water.

When the flowering season has passed the supply of water must
be gradually diminished and in winter it should receive just enough
to keep the plant in foliage. In case the plants are used for out-of-
door decoration they must be brought to the conservatory before there
is any danger from frost. The varieties common in use are Umbel-
latus, blue, and Umbellatus Albus, white. If plants are imported,
they arrive in November.

Allium.

Although the name stands for the word “onion,” it has no relation-
ship either in fragrance or appearance. The bulbs as a rule are very
small, perfectly round and cream in color. The foliage is narrow,
long and grass like, while the flower appears in umbel form on a
straight, leafless stalk 15 inches in height. The flowers are very ar-
tistic, pleasing and showy. ;

The variety “Neapolitanum” is grown in France and usually ar-
rives here in August; it is especially suitable for growing in pans for
the dwelling or conservatory.

The other varieties are grown in Holland, arrive in September
and are grown not only for the house during the winter, but also
in borders in the garden, by massing 12 or more bulbs in a cluster
and protecting them with leaves to a depth of 12 inches.

There are a number of varieties available, which appear in shades
of blue, yellow, white, crimson and pink.

Alstroemerias.

I simply mention this flower because in foreign catalogues it is
offered as a bulb, while in reality it is a perennial plant similar to
Hemerocallis. It is used exclusively in the hardy border and pro-
duces lily-like flowers of yellow and orange.

54 GROWING BULBS

Amaryllis.

Strictly for the conservatory.

From a massive round bulb appear first broad sword-like leaves
18 to 24 inches long, which curve gracefully outward to the right and
left. The flower stalk arising in the center is enormously stout,
round, leafless and perfectly erect, often rising to a height of 24 to
36 inches, carrying on top from two to six gigantic lily-flowers in
many colors: white, pink, scarlet and crimson and many combinations
of these colors.

Amaryllis Belladonna flowers in the fall without foliage.

Amaryllis Formosissima has split flowers of crimson.

Amaryllis Hippeastrum is the largest flowering species and is the
most showy of all. In this class there are many hundreds of varieties,
some of them being as rare and valuable as orchids. When in full
bloom, they are gorgeous, either cut or on the plant.

See Culture, “Growing for Conservatory.”

Anemone.

es Pee pitt ANEMONE.—Under this title I gather all the bulbous
inds as:

ANEMONE CORONARIA (Poppy Anemone).—A favorite
flower with the Parisians. The very pretty cut-up foliage produces a
globular plant 6 to 8 inches high and through it appear several slender
flower-stems 8 to 10 inches long, crowned with one saucer-shaped
single flower in scarlet, white or blue. The beautiful centre of this
flower is quite distinctive, as it is formed of small filaments, a fea-
ture by which we identify other flowers. These flowers can only be
grown in conservatories or cold frames. The type here described has
single blooms, while A. Coronaria fl. pl. has double flowers.

ANEMONE ST. BRIGID belongs to the foregoing in form and
habit, but the single and semi-double flowers are larger and have a
charm of their own, having beautiful halos around their center.

ANEMONE FULGENS.—Of dwarfer growth than the foregoing,
but glorying in the shades of brightest scarlet. All of them should
be planted in September or October.

The following sorts are known as Hardy Perennials and utilized
either in the border or in the rockgarden or in woodlands; many of
them are natives of woods. They are all dwarf, with bright star-
shaped flowers for early spring.

enone APENNINA.—This species appears in white, blue
and lilac.

ANEMONE BLANDA.—Blue and white.

ANEMONE HEPATICA.—Blue, white and purplish red.

ANEMONE HORTENSIS.—Large star-shaped flowers in white,
purplish violet, scarlet and crimson.

NEMONE NEMOROSA.—The real Wood Anemone in blue,
pink and white.

ANEMONE PALMATA.—In yellow and white.

ANEMONE PULSATILLA (known as Pasque Flower).—Large
leaves and clusters of flowers in blue and white.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 55

ANEMONE RANUNCULOIDES.—The yellow Buttercup Ane-
mone, both single and double.
ANEMONE SYLVESTRIS.—The Snowdrop Anemone in white.

Anomatheca Cruenta.
(Scarlet Freesia.)

In growth and form of flower it resembles a Freesia, but lacks
its perfume and color. The roots, to which green growth is attached,
arrive in November and must then be planted at once. These plants
oh only be grown in conservatories. They appear in scarlet color
only.

Arum, see Callas.

Bulbocodium Vernum.

The Crocus-like flowers appear early in the spring, usually two
or three from a single bulb, but without leaves. The color is purple-
violet with white spots. It is perfectly hardy, but delights in a sunny
position and in sandy soil. It fits in the hardy border in the rockery,
along edges of brooks and lakesides and on the outskirts of the
woods.

Callas.

They are botanically known as Richardias and Arum. Almost
all can only be used for growing in the dwelling or conservatory.
The popular Calla (Richardia Aethiopica) are usually grown singly in
pots, and a large pot is required on account of the length of the bulb.
The newly made growth, which is visible when the bulb is planted
(July-August), should protrude above the pot. Callas like a heavy
clay soil and plenty of water while they grow; in fact, when they are
in foliage it is advisable to use warm water when watering. The
bulbs after being potted are placed directly in the spot where they
are expected to bloom and no dark storage is required. In conserva-
tories they love humidity and heat, so that they can be placed in the
warmest spot. A little feeding with liquid manure will help them.
Even amongst the common white Callas there are a number of types
and sorts. Before planting always carefully examine the bulb and
see that no decay is visible. If decay can be noticed carefully scrape
the diseased part and dust with lime and allow it to dry before plant-
ing. The common white Calla can be procured in many sizes of
bulbs. The largest naturally will produce the largest flowers and
the greatest number of them, so that it pays to give a little more
for a large bulb. In addition, there is now offered the “Godfrey
Calla,” a variety which has purer white flowers and is more free in
blooming. This variety is best secured in growth. There is still
another sort known as “Pearl of Stuttgart.” It is dwarf and therefore
perhaps better for pot purpose than any of the others, but the former
I would prefer for cutting. It grows about 18 inches high and pro-
duces several flowers at one time from a single bulb. The flowers

56 GROWING BULBS

are pure white and the yellow piston in the centre is truly an attrac-
tion.

CALLA ALBA MACULATA is a flat bulb, which produces foli-
age liberally, spotted with flecks of white, rather adding to the orna-
mentation of the plant. The flowers are white and only medium in
size. They are easily raised for the dwelling or conservatory and in
addition may be kept dormant till spring, planted out near ponds or
brooksides, and here they flower continuously all summer.

YELLOW CALLAS.—A few years ago yellow Callas were a
rarity; today they are available in not less than nine sorts, as fol-
lows (most sorts have spotted foliage):

AURATA.—Sulphur yellow.

ELLIOTTIANA.—A deep golden yellow. When grown for the
dwelling or conservatory do not expect flowers until May or June.
A better way is to store the bulbs dry during the winter and to
plant them in the garden during May. They will flower almost all
summer.

; ELLIOTTIANA ROSSI.—Bright golden yellow with small vio-
et centre.

GLORY OF HILLEGOM.—Bright canary yellow with purple
blotch.

HASTATA.—Yellow with black, showy spots.

MRS. ROOSEVELT.—Sulphur yellow.

PALLIDA.—Large bright yellow flowers.

PENTLANDI.—Golden yellow flowers on red stems.

SOLFATARA.—Primrose yellow with a black centre. The most
distinctive of all.

PINK CALLAS.—Even pink flowers can be had in this family
with variety, Rehmanni, which is rather miniature, growing but 12
to 15 inches high, having fair sized flowers of an antique rose shade.
Rehmanni Violacea has reddish violet flowers, which are produced
in great numbers during the spring months. The bulbs of yellow
and pink Callas are not procurable until late in the season and
therefore do not bloom until April or May following.

BABY CALLA.—The variety “Little Gem” is a white Calla
which grows but 12 inches high and produces its flowers in great
numbers all winter. I advise securing growing plants instead of
dormant roots, as the former produce flowers much sooner. Arum
is another botanical name for a class of wild Callas growing in
Asia. None of them appeals to me as worthy of serious considera-
tion. Arum Sanctum is known as the Black Calla on account of its
deep purple flowers. Arum Cornutum, also known as Sauromatum,
is simply a curiosity as an air plant and fully described as such in
the preceding chapter. Arum Dracunculum, known as the Dragon
Lily on account of the stems being mottled. There are other varieties
which are of still less importance.

Calochortus.
(California Tulip or Mariposa Lily.)

Although a native of California, they can only be used for out of
door culture in localities where the climate is similar. In the East they

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 57

are used for growing in the conservatory exclusively. It is too bad
that this ower cannot be used for gardens, for in colors and mark-
ings it is the equal of the finest orchids and so is the shape of the
flower. The plant in itself is rather weak. The thin tulip leaves curl
and twist and the extremely slender flower spike, 8 to 12 inches
high, produces one or two nodding flowers which in their interior
are beautifully marked. Six to twelve bulbs should be massed in a
pan and while in dark storage they must not freeze. Thejbulbs are
available in October and the flowers appear in March or April.

Camassia.

A hardy bulb, native of this country, which is superior to any
“Scilla” and can be utilized for the same purpose. In the garden,
or border, or in lawn or meadows, near brooks or lakesides, in open
spots in woods or on the outskirts of them, simply everywhere, it
delights the eye, bedecks the landscape with its graceful heads of
blue flowers during the early part of June. The flower spikes are
often 12 inches long, so that they can be readily used for cutting.
They are absolutely hardy and require no protection. In addition
to blue sorts one can also procure white and purple flowering kinds.

Chionodoxia.

Known as the “Glory of the Snow,” evidently on account of its
early flowering qualities. In sheltered locations the beautiful bright
blue bells are often seen directly above the snow. In form and
character it resembles the blue squill; the flower is more loose, the
color different; it is equally dwarf and used for all the purposes of
the Scilla, as for the dwelling in pans, or fibre, or for the garden in
every conceivable location. The buibs arrive in September and should
be planted then.

Clivia.

Strictly a conservatory plant. The leaves, resembling those of
Amaryllis, are very leathery, appear in layers parted to either side
by the extremely stout flower-spike leaning at its crown, a gigantic
umbel composed of forty or fifty drooping apricot-colored, lily-
like flowers. Their treatment in the conservatory is exactly like that
of Amaryllis Hippeastrum. Secure these in growing condition during
early fall.

Colchicum.
(Meadow Saffron.)

This flower is put to many uses.
ey 1. As air plant, and described as suc’ under the heading of Air
ants.

58 GROWING BULBS

2. To be naturalized in meadows, for there is its native home,
from which it derives its popular name. The large wild cabbage-like
leaves peep through the ground in the early spring, but usually die
down and disappear before summer if left alone, and in consequence
it suits the meadow, where the grass is not cut until July. During
the whole month of October the meadows are aglow with these bright
and cheery faces of a gigantic Crocus flower; from a single bulb (usu-
ally large) appear as many as twelve blossoms in continuous suc-
cession, extending the flowering season for a full month.

3. In the hardy border. Here they should be planted in clumps
and, if possible, between Saxifraga, as their foliage resemble each
other. One flowers in the spring, the other in the fall.

4. In the rockery combined again with Saxifraga.

5. Under trees, combined with myrtle, where the beauty of the
leafless flowers is in the fall enhanced by the carpet of myrtle.

6. In woods, combined with Lily of the Valley, for the foliage
in the spring resembles each other and it produces another flower
effect in the fall in a spot which otherwise would be barren.

The point of greatest importance to be considered is timely
planting. You should order bulbs from your seedsman not later than
June and ask for special importation so that they arrive early in
August in absolutely dormant condition. If they come with the
other bulbs in September they flower in the cases while in transit,
and you lose thereby a full season and must wait a whole year for
another blossom. Varieties: The common Meadow Saffron is C.
Autumnale in both lavender and white, both single and double. C.
Bornmulleri is very large and almost white, but the finest of all is
C. Speciosum, with delicate pink flowers. These appear in the exact
form of a wine goblet. A newer variety of the foregoing in pure
white is magnificent, but very costly.

Crinums.

Are best described as “gigantic, cluster-flowered Amaryllis.” The
very bulbs often measure a foot through, with noses 3 feet tall.
The only variety to which I wish to refer here is C. Powelli, known
as the Hardy Amaryllis; grows about 18 inches high, has a smal)
bulb and produces from two to three flowers on a spike. They are
recommended for borders, should be planted in the fall and protected
with leaves during the winter. They can be had in several colors,
as light and dark pink, white and white and pink combined on one
flower. The bulbs arrive in November.

Crocus—Spring Flowering.

The most popular of all bulbous flowers, being used for every
conceivable purpose.

If wanted for the dwelling it can be grown in soil, in fibre, in
pebbles and water and in moss. In the garden there is not a spot
where these bulbs canne* be employed. The great mistake made
in planting them generaiy“is putting them in too deep. They should
never be more than 2 inches below the surface. In very exposed.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 59

positions it is well to protect them during the winter with tobacco
stems, which also act well as a protection for the lawn.

But the most important point is that the bulbs should be planted
in September and only large bulbs employed; a large bulb inva-
riably produces 3 flowers, while a small bulb produces even under
favorable circumstances only one flower, and generally none. The
reason for early planting is that the bulbs in dormant state will pet-
rify if kept dormant after September and you are apt to plant a
stone instead of a bulb.

The newer varieties of Crocus are a revelation as to size and
color and should be tried by every flower-lover.

Crocus—Fall Flowering.

While Colchicums really belong to this class they are usually
separated on account of the distinct shape of the bulb and foliage,
and in addition we have real Crocus to flower in the fall even later
than the Colchicums, with flowers and leaves identical with the
spring flowering kinds. This class of flowers are indeed very fasci-
nating, for they give us the parting farewell of glorious and enjoy-
able moments experienced in our season of gardening. With a proper
selection their flowering season can be extended right into winter,
and through it, and this type of gardening should be more tried and
encouraged. All of the fall flowering species produce the flowers
in the fall and the foliage in the springtime.

Crocus Sativus, C. Speciosus and C. Zonatus I have found the
mort satisfactory, and Crocus Imperali I recommend as the latest
to bloom.

The Hardy Cyclamen.

One of the most lovely of Alpine flowers which are an unknown
quantity in this country. The flowers, which resemble a violet and
which are dwarf and small, arise amidst a foliage which is beautiful
in itself. They are heart-shape, marked with grotesque designs in
white. The bulbs, which are fairly large, are the ideal subjects in
a rockery, where they can get a sheltered nook and a well-drained
pocket. In such locations they form a glorious picture when in
bloom. Some varieties flower in the fall, others in the spring.

FALL FLOWERING.—C. Africanus, C. Cilicicum, C. Euro-
paeum and C. Neapolitanum.

SPRING FLOWERING.—C. Atkinsi, C. Coum, C. Ibericum and
C. Repaudum.

Plant bulbs shallow and protect with leaves.

Cyprepedium Acaule.
(The Hardy Lady’s Slipper.)

Although one of our native perennials, it is very successfully
grown as a bulbous flower, similar to Lily of th Valley, for the
dwelling or conservatory. Its whole root formation is just like a
Lily of the Valley.

60 GROWING BULBS

Pot the roots in November and store so that they can thoroughly
freeze; in fact, they produce good results only when the roots have
been frozen.

Bring to the light in March and within four weeks they are in
full bloom. From four to six roots should be in a six-inch pan.

Daffodils.

What a wealth of glorious thoughts enter our minds when we
hear the word “Daffodils.” When we see the Daffodils in the gar-
dens we say a last farewell to winter, and as April meets May those
who have thoughtfully prepared during the fall will glory in their
showers of gold, and the smiling, enchanting faces of the ever-rippling
Jonquils and Daffodils. The heart of man must indeed be made of
stone if a mass of daffodils planted by the woodside, or the brook,
in the border or under the trees, near pines, does not make him re-
joice anew in the rejuvenation of nature and remember his child-
hood days when in field and woods he rapturously sought the first
flowers of spring. What a wealth of material the Daffodils offer
us for the garden, the fields, the woods, the hills and the valleys,
and everywhere that we seek the verdure and the golden dewdrops.

Yellow, to the writer, is particularly welcome in the early spring
and late in the fall; for it denotes wealth and glory. A season of
plenty. Begin with the golden Crocus, follow this with the richest
of Primroses (Primula Veris Superba), and then feast on one steady
succession of the following flowers: Daffodils, Golden Sweet Alys-
sum, S. E. Tulip Ophir d’Or, Late Tulip Flava and Bouton d’Or, Ice-
land Poppies, Buttercups, Doronicum and Coreopsis. When the
summer is waning greet the most graceful of all sunflowers: Helian-
thus Orgyalis, the pure yellow Gaillardia, yellow Dahlias and, last
of all, the golden Chrysanthemum.

The word “Daffodil” is generally misapplied by the average ama-
teur. Some call all double forms of trumpet Narcissi Daffodils, and
all single forms Jonquil. While it is the title for both, “Jonquils” is
a name which is erroneously applied by bulbmen to a miniature form
of trumpet “Narcissi,” while the word “Narcissus” stands with the
beginner for nothing more than the Poet Narcissus. I have repeat-
edly observed when Jonquils were asked for in seed stores, that
through the clerk’s mistake the miniature Jonquils were furnished,
with the result that the buyer was disappointed.

I have, therefore, decided on classifying the different Narcissi and
hope thus to prevent the usual disappointments.

Daffodils are one of the easiest of flowers to grow for the house
and conservatory, and particuiarly if grown in the prepared fibre.

_ To grow in the garcen always combine them with the lovely
rrimuia veris Superba, the most wonderful golden Primrose.

There are two sizes of bulbs usually offered and I think an
explanation might serve to enlighten the garden public as to their
value and use.

SINGLE NOSED is a term applied to a perfect bulb, which at
no time produces more than one flower spike, but invariably such a
spike produces a perfect flower and is by far the most useful mate-

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 61

rial if Daffodils are wanted in pans for the dwelling or conservatory.
Double nosed is a term applied to the bulb where one shell contains
two or more flattened bulbs; such bulbs produce two or more flowers,
but thereby, of course, sacrifice size and perfection. In gardens, of
course, we seek masses rather than individual perfection, and so the
double-nosed bulb perhaps serves better for out-of-doors. For natu-
ralizing indeed I would greatly prefer the double-nosed bulb. Daf-
fodils have been mentioned so much in preceding chapters that the
story of their usefulness has not been overlooked. Now as to the
classification. They are separated (1) as to the color of the flower,
(2) as to the size of their trumpet, and (3) as to their form.

These classifications should be better known by the amateur, for
otherwise he cannot make an intelligent selection and might have
disappointments which could have easily been avoided.

i. TRUMPET DAFFODILS are all those whose trumpets or
crowns are as long or longer than the perianth segments, and these
again are subdivided as follows: (a) “Ajax Bicolor,” where the trum-
pets are yellow and the perianths white. (b) “Ajax White,” where
both trumpets and perianths are white. (c) “Ajax Yellow,” where
both trumpets and perianths are yellow.

2. BARRI DAFFODILS are distinguished by the fact that the
crown or cup of the flowers measures less than one-third the length
of perianth segment.

3. INCOMPARABLE DAFFODILS are flowers whose cup or
crown measures from one-third to nearly equal the leucsth of the
perianth segments..

4. LEEDSI DAFFODILS are recognized by their chilice or
short cups. Perianths are white, cup or crown may be white, cream
or pale primrose. ir

5. DOUBLE DAFFODILS are easily recognized, as they | om-
prise all of the double-flowered forms.

6. JONQUILS are quite distinct, as they have fine ‘rass-like
foliage and bear two or three miniature flowers on a tall, wiry stem.
They are particularly desirable for growing in pans for the dwelling,
either in soil or fibre.

7. MINIATURE DAFFODILS, small, dwarf-growing species
which adapt themselves ideally to the rockgarden.

k 8. THE POET DAFFODIL OR NARCISSUS POETICUS.—

This is the common garden Narcissus which is usually in the mind
of the amateur when he orders simply Narcissus; the seedsman,
though, calls everything Narcissus, and nine times out of ten will fill
your order with “Trumpet Daffodils.” You can avoid this by giving
the full name of your class. This class is especially popular for gar-
den use either by naturalizing in grass or in the border or in woods,
in fact, everywhere.

9. POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS OR BUNCHFLOWERED
NARCISSI.—No variety in this class is hardy and they are therefore
used exclusively for growing in the dwelling or conservatory. For this
purpose, though, they are unrivalled as to ease of culture and quick-
ness of coming to bloom. The most popular variety in this class is
ye “Paperwhite,” grown in France and usually arriving here in

ugust.

62 GROWING BULBS

Grown in pebbles and water they are far superior to the well-
known “Chinese Lily.” In fibre they grow luxuriantly. The other
varieties in this class take longer to bloom, but are larger and come
in many shades of yellow.

10. POETAZ NARCISSUS.—Rather new; a cross between the
two last classes described and possessing characters and virtues owned
by both. In size they are equal to the poets, but produce flowers
in bunches like the others. They can be grown easily for the dwell-
ing, but are also hardy, so they are the equal of the poets once more.
The slight fragrance of the former has been blended with that of the
latter, producing a most pleasing odor.

Except where noted, Daffodil bulbs should be planted in Sep-
tember if the best results are expected.

Dog’s Tooth Violet, see Erythronium.

Eranthis Hyemalis.
(Winter Aconite.)

The pretty yellow star-shaped flowers appear very early in the
spring, being unaccompanied by any foliage, which appears later.
This is just as early as the Snowdrop and used exclusively for the
garden out-of-doors. It is perfectly hardy and requires little or no
protection. The bulbs are very srhall and arrive in September.

Eremurus.
(The King’s Spear.)

."Shis indeed is not a bulbous plant, but strictly speaking a peren-
nia:, yet as it is offered in bulb books I mention it here. The root,
which is formed by a number of long carrot-like fingers extending
in all diwctions, takes up a diameter of at least 18 inches and conse-
quently in planting it a large hole should be dug. It requires shallow
planting in well drained soil and protection of leaves during the
winter. It may as well be understood that this plant does not do
well in all climates and it is much better to experiment with it in
limited numbers before planting them in masses. The smooth, round,
massive flower spikes attain a height of six to eight feet, of which
the upper part is encircled with a mass of tiny flowers, in white,
pink or purple. The roots arrive in November.

Erythroniums.
(Dog’s Tooth Violet.)

A beautiful native wild flower abounding in woods and shady
situations, and for that reason they must occupy a similar place in our
garden. Liberal moisture during the growing season and a protection
of leaves during the winter are just what they want in order to feel
at home. Their popular name is a misnomer, for they have no simi-
larity to a violet.

The variety Dens canis prospers best and can be had in blue,
white, pink and purple.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 63

Eucharis Amazonica.

A plant suited only to the conservatory. It resembles Amaryllis,
the flowers, remarkable for their pure whiteness and their pleasing
fragrance, are carried on a stout stem just like the Amaryllis, whose
treatment should be copied for these.

Feathered Hyacinths.

(Muscari Plumosus.)

A dwarf growing Hyacinth where the flowers are formed of fine
filaments, thus producing the effect of a plume. They may be used
for the garden border or grown in pans for the dwelling or conserva-
tory. Color, violet blue.

Freesia.

Can only be used to flower in the dwelling or conservatory and
requires a distinct culture for that purpose. The following are the
essential points:

1. Plant early in July or August, not later.

2. Use deep pots, for the new roots which form below the others
go deep.

3. After being potted do not store, but place in an indirect light
in the dwelling or under the bencl in the conservatory until growth
shows above the soil.

4. Never force, but grow in a fairly cool temperature.

5. Place fine twigs on the edge of the pots to support the fine
grass-like foliage.

6. Have patience; the flower does not make its appearance until
five months after planting.

The sweet fragrance of the flower endeares it to everyone, and
now that we have it in all colors it should appeal to every flower-
lover. As a rule either one or two flowers open at one time on a
stem naturally, but here is a method by which all of them can be made
to open at one time.

When the first flower is ready to open on a stem, cut the full
stem and put it in a vessel with cold water and place the vessel in
an absolutely dark, cool place.

In three days ‘look at your stem again; it will have grown 3 to 4
inches, the flowers will be enlarged and all will be open.

Fritillaria Imperialis.
(Crown Imperial).

A subject used exclusively for the garden.

The bulb is fairly large, and in the centre where the flower-
spike was the year previous is a big hole. It is recommended to
plant the bulb on its side, for if planted upright moisture might fill
the centre and decay the bulb. The bulbs do not keep well and
should be planted not later than September.

Always plant them in masses for that is the only, way they look
well, The massive flower-spike growing 2 feet high is crowned with

64 GROWING BULBS

whorls of drooping bells of many shades. They are usually in bloom
about the middle of May.

Fritillaria Meleagris.
(Guinea-hen Flower).

An ideal subject for the woods where they delight, but they are
equally valuable in other spots in the garden.

The drooping bell-flowers, which are checkered like a chess-
board, are carried on slender stems 8 to 10 inches long.

These flowers appear about the end of April, and when the
wind moves the bells they present a most fascinating picture. They
appear in colors of grey, purple, lilac and white.

Galanthus.
(Snowdrops).

The first sign of approaching spring is when we greet the first
blooms of snowdrops in our garden, for often early in March they
greet us through the snow. Most of the bulbs no doubt are used for
naturalizing in grass or borders or rockery, but they are equally
beautiful and fascinating when grown in pans or pots for the dwelling
or conservatory.

Grown in soil or fibre and stored in the regular manner as de-
scribed for Hyacinths or, Tulips, they will bloom indoors in January
and February, provided they were planted in September. In the
garden I like them best, when planted under ornamental trees in great
masses.

Gerbera Jamesoni and Hybrids.
(The Barberton Daisy).

This again is not a bulbous plant, but can be shipped in dry
roots, which accounts for its mention here.

In a true sense it should be termed a tender perennial, but really
can be made use of both for the conservatory or the garden. The
dormant roots are received in October or November and when
wanted for conservatory should be planted in an open bench, allow-
ing 8 to 10 inches space between each. Water should at first be given
but sparingly until the plants show signs of flowering, when they
must be watered freely and occasionally fed with liquid manure. A
temperature of 60 to 65 degrees suits them best. They will flower
uninterruptedly from February until May, and when the flowering
period is gone water must be gradually withheld until they require
watering but once in two weeks, simply to keep the roots alive in
the soil. They can also be grown in pots but produce only half as
many flowers.

When wanted for out of door culture the following method
should be adopted. Bury the roots when received late in fall in soil
in the cold frame, cover with plenty of leaves, place sash on frame
and prevent frost from entering the frame.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 65

About May 15 remove the roots from their winter slumber and
plant them in a well enriched garden border, giving each plant a
foot of space.

Soon they will grow and produce their wonderful flowers con-,
tinuously all summer.

Beginning September 15, withold water or better lift the plants
with soil attached; carefully dry in the air, but do not expose to the
frost, and then store them away again in the cold frame, as in the
previous year.

Gerberas, in my estimation, are the most artistic flowers known
in the whole floral kingdom. They are extremely valuable as a cut-
flower, for as such will often last ten days. They are a great novelty
for the garden and will amply repay for the little trouble they cause.

The original species appeared only in an orange scarlet, but now
we can have them in nearly all the colors of the rainbow.

Gladiolus Nanus.
(A dwarf early flowering Gladiolus).

They are popularly grown in conservatories and fully described
under that heading, but they may also be successfully grown as a
garden plant by setting the bulbs 4 inches deep out of doors and
covering them with fully 6 inches of pine needles. This protection
must be removed early in the spring and in its place should be put
a mulch of dry manure. Treated thus they will flower early in June.

Gladiolus Atroviolaceous.

A wild species with deep blue flowers which, on account of its
quick flowering qualities, is grown in conservatories for winter
blooming. The bulbs should be planted in July or August. Its cul-
ture is fully described in the chapter of “Growing for the Con-
servatory.”

Gladiolus—Large Flowered.

See chapter “Growing for the Conservatory.”

Gloriosa.
(The Climbing African Lily).

Used exclusively for the conservatory.
See chapter “Growing for the Conservatory.”

Grape Hyacinths.
(Muscari-Botryoides).

In appearance like miniature Hyacinths, except that the bells on
the spike do not open up.

66 GROWING BULBS

They are used for every conceivable purpose either in dwelling
or conservatory and in every department of the garden. They flower
very early and appear in blue and white.

Helleborus Niger.
(The Christmas Rose).

Named from the fact that in its native country it flowers at Christ-
mas out of doors. The foliage is very leathery, lobed and is at-
tractive in itself. In our climate the flowers appear during February
and March; are borne on very stout stems, single and cup shaped, of
a white, tinted outside with either pink or purple.

For culture, see chapter on “The Winter Garden.”

If planted in cold frames and protected with sashes, it is abso-
lutely certain to flower. The roots arrive in November.

Dutch Hyacinths.

There seems to be a diversity of opinion as to the beauty of a
Hyacinth. Such attributes as too stiff, too fat, too plump, too stat-
uary-like or too monotonous are freely found in books dealing with
the subject, and I have often wondered why a real lover of flowers
could not see some beauty in all flowers and forget his personal
antipathy. We as humans do not differ much from some of the
flowers; not all of us are handsome yet we may have virtues totally
overtowering all that beauty could endow us with. And so it is
with the Hyacinth. She may not have the grace of the tulip, nor the
elegance of the daffodil, but she possesses one virtue not shared by.
either of the others, namely, a delicious fragrance. For that, in my
estimation, she might readily be envied by both.

The Hyacinth attracts me to the garden, for it is the first per-
fume of spring, and it is the only flower which can boast of the power
of appearing in the four main colors, namely, Red, White, Blue and
Yellow. But, apart from this sentiment, I find a distinctive beauty
in that perfect bell, and in the artistic shades of pinks, lavender, violets
and buffs which we cannot produce in our gardens unless we employ
Hyacinths. There is still another reason why we should welcome
them, for they are the first of the showy spring flowers, preceding the
tulips and daffodils.

Just as there is a diversity of opinion as to the beauty of this
flower, so there is equal disagreement as to what constitutes “the ideal
quality” of the bulbs.

Hyacinth bulbs are offered from Holland in the following grades:

1. Mother bulbs.

2. Real first size.

3. Seedsmen first size, which in reality are second size.

4. Second size, named Bedding, which is really third size.

5. Mixtures, which are really fourth size.

6. Dutch Romans or Miniature.

Mother bulbs are the exceptional mammoth bulbs, of which only
a few are found in a field, and for which a very high price is asked,
which is reasonable and natural. But this does not constitute a proof

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 67

that they are the best bulbs to use, and I have the courage to say
that they are not. Mother bulbs invariably are overgrown, and in-
stead of producing one perfect spike, they produce two, three or
more, but imperfect spikes, and the whole appearance of the plant
speaks of too much prosperity.

The perfection of a Hyacinth flower can only be produced through
a single spike, growing erect, where every bell is perfect in outline,
and as large as it can possibly be grown.

Such bulbs are known as “Perfect First Size.” They are sound,
plump, heavy and sure to give satisfaction.

Hyacinths are used not only in the garden, but they are un-
doubtedly the most satisfactory material for pots and pans in grow-
ing for the dwelling and conservatory. A single bulb of Hyacinths
does not look bad in a 5-inch pot. The miniature Hyacinths are best
grown in shallow seed pans. Hyacinths are quite successfully grown
in fibre and also in bottles with pure water. Not all varieties will
suit, though, for the latter purpose.

In potting Hyacinths remove the little off-shoots at the base of
each bulb; it will help to produce a better flower.

Roman or French Hyacinths.

These are not suitable for garden work, as they are not hardy,
but are splendid for growing in pots, pans or flats in the house or
conservatory, and by timely planting can readily be had in bloom
by Thanksgiving. From a single bulb are produced from three to
five graceful, slender flower stems which are dressed with loosely
a Se medium-sized bells. Splendid for cutting and exquisitely
scented.

Tris.

This is a large family and to treat it intelligently it is necessary
for me to subdivide it into its classes.

Bulbous Iris.

The following belong to this class: English, Dutch and Spanish.
They have narrow grass-like leaves and produce their flowers on
slender, wiry stems. All three may be grown either in the conserva-
tory or for the open garden. The culture for the former purpose
has been fully described under its respective heading. For growing
in the garden select a rich spot, plant the bulbs in September, allow-
ing three to four in space between each bulb and cover with leaves
during winter. The Dutch Iris are very similar to the Spanish Iris,
but will flower two weeks earlier. The English Iris are not quite as
tall, but have broader flower petals and flower long after the Spanish
Iris, thereby extending the flowering season. Spanish Irises are a
beautiful material for cutting, and as they are exceedingly inexpensive
should be grown by the thousand. They usually last two years in
the garden.

68 GROWING BULBS

Rhizomenous Iris.

IRIS PUMILA.—The earliest of this class to flower, growing
very dwarf with short leaves like that of the German Iris, with flow-
ers very similar, appearing in early April. On account of its dwarf-
ness it is recommended both for the rockery or as edging plant to
hardy borders.

IRIS GERMAN.—The well known fleur-de-lis, which is found in
almost every garden

IRIS SIBERIAN .—Long, narrow leaves in dense clusters, from
which rise far above them a great many flowers, rather small and
narrow-petaled, but owing to its freeness of flowering it is very
effective.

IRIS KAEMPFERI (Japan Iris).—The most magnificent of all
Iris and the latest to bloom. The flowers are composed of broad
spreading petals (either three or six to a flower), and it is nothing
unusual for a flower to measure from 8 to 10 inches across.

All of this class are for garden use exclusively and should be
planted in August or September for best results. All except the
Japan Iris love a fairly dry situation, but this must have abundant
moisture in summer, but not in winter.

Esa:

Belonging to the Iris family, but the flowers have no resemblance
to it. The upper part of a straight, wiry flower-stem 20 to 24 inches
long is dressed with bright-colored, cup-shaped flowers facing all
in one direction and being enhanced with attractively colored spots
in the centre of the individual bloom.

They are grown in conservatories exclusively and for their cul-
ture see chapter “Growing in the conservatory.

Lachenalia.

A dwarf-growing pot plant, raised in a conservatory. From
the centre of a few tulip-like leaves at the base of the plant arises
a stout flower-stem which is dressed with long, drooping, tube-shaped
flowers. See Culture, “Growing in the conservatory.”

Leucojum, see Snowflakes.

Lilies.

An unusually large and interesting family of flowers, upon whose
beauties, value and culture a whole book alone could be written.

I shall confine myself here to a list of sorts.

1. For the dwelling.

2. For the conservatory. (a) Fresh bulbs; (b) cold storage
bulbs.

3. For the garden.
» 1. FOR THE DWELLING.—The Lilium Harrisii, or better
known as the Bermuda Easter Lily, is the only one suited for this;
purpose. Plant the bulbs in August and follow culture as given for
conservatory.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 69

2. FOR THE CONSERVATORY.—(a) Fresh bulbs. The fol-
lowing varieties are usually grown under glass:

Season of Planting.

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3. FOR THE GARDEN.—In growing lilies out of doors, we
should provide above all a good rich soil with perfect drainage. The
former is easy to provide, but the latter requires careful attention, for
with most lilies it is even necessary to provide the drainage close to
the bulb, and this is accomplished by enveloping the entire bulb in
sand. Certain bulbs of lilies show the spot where the flower spike was
the year previous, and such bulbs are best planted on the side; other
bulbs have a loose formation of scales, and these are also best planted
on the side. Some of our native lilies, like Lilium Superbum and
Lilium Canadense, love moisture and partial shade, and for this rea-
son may be used for naturalizing on the outskirts of woods or in
plantings of Rhododendrons. All lilies love a cool soil, and this can
be produced by covering the surface with 3 inches of leaf-mould.
Lilium Auratum of late years is much infested with a disease, which
accounts for its short life and indifferent success. The following list
can be relied upon to succeed in most parts of this country:

GROWING BULBS

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THE FAMILY OF BULBS 71

Lily of the Valley.

Too popular and well known to require description. The culture
for the dwelling or conservatory has been fully described under the
respective headings. The outdoor culture of this flower has not been
mentioned previously and requires a little more detail. .

For this purpose purchase field-grown clumps and not pips,
as they are far less expensive and are better adapted for natural
appearance of the bed. Clumps when set out should not be set more
than two inches below the surface. They should be covered with sand
or sandy loam instead of with regular garden soil, and leaves should
be heaped over a new planting. Plant in November if the clumps
are imported, or in October if home-grown. Select a shady spot
and, if possible, plant Colchicums between them so as to have a
double flowering season in the same spot.

Musk Hyacinths.

(Muscari Moschatum.)

A miniature species with yellowish flowers, possessing a strong
scent of musk. They may be grown in pots for the dwelling or in
gardens, as they are perfectly hardy.

Muscari.

A group of spring flowering bulbs with close clusters of smalk
bells on six-inch stems, which have earned for them the common
names of “Grape Hyacinths,” “Feathered Hyacinths” and “Musk Hya-
cinths.” See their description under these common names.

Montbretias.

August flowering, sun-loving bulbs in shades of yellow, orange
and red. Their fine foliage and shape of flower make them appear
like miniature Gladiolii. The free flowered lasting arching sprays
produce a most effective picture in the border or open garden. Plants
grow from two to three feet high. They must be planted in masses
of one color to be effective. Plant bulbs in October, two to three
inches deep, and cover. with leaves. I do not suggest growing them
in pots, but prefer them in the garden only.

Narcissii, see Daffodils.

Nerine.

A species of Amaryllis, grown exclusively in the conservatory.
The flowers, which appear without foliage late in the fall, are pro-
duced in whorls on a straight leafless stalk 18 inches high. For cul-
ture see “Growing in the Conservatory.”

72 GROWING BULBS

Ornithogallum.

A native hardy bulb better known as Star of Bethlehem. Be-
tween a great cluster of grassy leaves appear the numerous bright,
star-shaped white flowers early in May. They are used in garden
for naturalizing.

Oxalis.

A popular pot plant grown for the dwelling. The branches
being of drooping nature it is invariably seen growing in a hanging
basket. As its culture is quite distinct from all others, it was not
mentioned previously. Secure your bulbs in July or August (not
later) and of all varieties except the “Bermuda Buttercup” plant a
dozen bulbs in a six-inch pot; of the latter only four. After potting
bring right to the dwelling and place in indirect light until the first
growth appears, after which full light must be given. Grow always
cool. The mistake that is usually made is keeping the pots in dark
storage, which invariably spells failure.

Paeonies.

A hardy perennial plant for the garden and one of the most lovely
and showy. It is so well known that no further description is neces-
sary, but I believe a few points about its culture might be of interest.

First.—Paeonies should only be planted in the fall between Sep-
tember and November.

Second.—They require a sunny location and should receive a lib-
eral supply of stable manure about 12 inches below the root.

Third.—The crown of the root should not be more than three
inches below the surface.

Fourth.—lf a growing plant is set out now it might be left undis-
turbed in the ground for seven years. After that it should be lifted
every third year and divided into four each time.

Pushkinnias.

If of all the bulbs for growing in masses in the garden I could
have but one, I should surely choose the “Puschkinnia,” for its color
is most lovely, a delicate clear sky-blue, which the Hollander describes
as delft-blue. The whole plant reminds you of a miniature hyacinth
with hundreds of blossoms on a stalk. The many flowers require a
long time to develop, which produces a longer flowering season for
this plant. In the past it has been my good fortune to do a great
deal to introduce this flower in this country, and yet I am sure there
are millions of flower lovers here who have never heard of it. Just
try it and sing its praise to others. They are the most inexpensive
bulbs on the market, costing less than a cent a piece.

Ranunculus (Bulbous).

The class called “Turban” is the best of all and more popularly
used. These French Buttercups with large double flowers in all colors

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 73

remind you almost of roses. They are only suitable for growing in
a cold frame or conservatory. See their culture in the preceding
chapters.

Sternbergia.

A variety of Amaryllis classed amongst “Fall Flowering Bulbs.”
In form it is exactly like a Fairy Lily, in color it is golden yellow.
The bulbs are planted in the garden in September, the flowers appear
in October and the foliage the following spring. Select a sheltered
nook and protect the bulbs with leaves during the winter.

Scilla.

An extensive family of bulbous flowers which are mostly used for
the garden, but may also be grown in pans for the dwelling. In order
to explain the uses of each class it is necessary to recall them.

SCILLA SIBERICA.—Commonly called Blue Squill, used in
lawns, rockeries, woodlands and borders. Appears in blue and white,

SCILLA BIFOLIA.—AImost identical to the foregoing.

SCILLA CAMPANULATA.—Known as Wood Hyacinths, being
much taller and having flowers more like Hyacinths. Used almost
entirely for naturalizing in woods or hardy borders.

SCILLA NUTANS.—The common Bluebell for woodland plant-
ing. In form similar to Campanulata.

Sauramatum.

See Callas and “Growing as Air Plant.”

Schizostylis Coccinea.
(Kaffir Lily.)

Grown exclusively for the conservatory, as it is not hardy here.
Plant six roots in a six-inch pot late in the fall and keep them grow-
ing continuously. The flower-spikes, growing two feet high, bear a
number of scarlet lily-like flowers the following year.

Snowdrops, see Galanthus.

Snowflakes.
(Leucojum.)

Just an enlarged Snowdrop, but appearing at different seasons.
L. Vernum flowers in April, L. Aestivum during May and June, and
us aoe in the autumn. They are dainty for rockeries and
orders.

Spirea.
(Astilbe.)

Not really a bulbous plant, but offered in all bulb books, which
accounts for its mention here. It is utilized in two ways:

74 GROWING BULBS

1. As a conservatory plant; see culture under that heading.

2. As a hardy perennial for the border. In both instances it
should be planted in November, as the flowers appear late in May.

From the centre of a graceful spreading foliage which remains
within two feet of the ground arise a number of’ wiry, straight stems
four feet high, which branch freely, producing enormous sprays of
plume-like flowers.

Trillium.
(Wood Lily.)

Especially recommended for hardy border or Woodland plant-
ing. Almost the first thing to flower in the woods. The large saucer-
shaped white flowers are very attractive and the whole plant grows
only about six inches high.

Trollius.
(Double Buttercup.)

A hardy perennial suitable for borders, rockeries, woodlands or
brooksides. The perfect globe-shaped double flowers in yellow or
golden are the glow of the garden toward the end of May. The roots
should be planted in October.

Tropaeolum.

A slender vine grown exclusively for conservatories. Fully de-
scribed in one of the preceding chapters.

Tulips.

The word alone is sufficient to recall to our minds all the visions
of gay loveliness which one can only experience at sight of a glorious
display of tulips. Their use through proper selection extends into
every department of gardening and so we must consider them in order
to make intelligent selection for the purpose in mind.

GROWING FOR THE DWELLING.—(a) Single Early Tulips:
Not all varieties are suitable for this purpose, but a great many are.
If your bulb book does not give you this information, let your seeds-
man suggest, for he knows which are best for you. This suggestion
also holds good with all the other types mentioned here. (b) Double
Early Tulip. (c) Darwin Tulips.

_ GROWING FOR THE CONSERVATORY.—AIl of the fore-
go

ing.
ie GROWING FOR THE GARDEN.—Every variety you will find
offered.

FOR THE HARDY BORDER.—Darwin Tulips, Cottage Garden
Tulips, Breeders, Bizzarres, Rembrandt, Bybloemen, Parrots and
species.

_FOR THE ROCKERY.—AIll the species, for they love such a sit-
uation.
FOR THE MEADOWS.—tTulipa Sylvestris.
FOR THE WOODS.—Nearly all of the species.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 75

i

THE CLASSES OF TULIPS.

Darwin Tulips.
The Tulip of Today and the Tulip of Tomorrow.

No other bulbous flower was ever received with greater acclaim
than truly this “Queen of All Tulips.” In her royal splendor she out-
shines all her companions, and with her majestic appearance she wins
the admiration of all flower lovers and instant approval of those who
see it for the first time.

“Darwins” are a class of Tulips which flower long after the other
tulips have flowered, and in the vicinity of New York are at their best
between May 15th and May 30th. They are slow in developing and,
therefore, last much longer. The truly gigantic flowercups are borne
on stout, straight stems, which rise far above a broad foliage and which
uncommonly attain a height of two to three feet. The flowers are
unicolored and have as their charm a base of a different color. To
step into the garden at the noon hour and peek into the cups of Dar-
win Tulips is a feast to the eye, wondrous to behold, never to be for-
gotten. In the garden they may be planted as regiments in massive
beds, but more artistically in proper color arrangement in irregular
groupings as a ribbon to shrub borders or as clumps in hardy borders.
They are hardy and may be left in the ground for at least three years
in succession. To take their place during summer while they are dor-
mant sow Lavatera in their place after the flowers have gone by, and
they can then be left undisturbed while no vacancy is formed by their
sleep.

For pot culture they are splendid and are just the ideal Tulip to
grow for Easter.

Rembrandt Tulips.

This new class of late Tulips is an offspring of the Darwins. They
are identical in character, forms, habits and other virtues, and differ
only in one feature, namely, in colorings. All flowers are either
striped, feathered, blotched or penciled and are wonderfully beautiful.

In massive clumps in front of shrubbery they are a picture and
for cut purposes they excel all other Tulips.

Cottage or May Flowering Tulips.

A class of Tulips which are fairly tall, are massive in texture, pro-
duce enormously large flowers and appear just previous to the Dar-
wins. They may be used for garden bedding or shrubbery. In this
class we have all colors and shades, and for this reason many varieties
can be used advantageously in blending with Darwin Tulips to create
artistic color blendings.

Breeder Tulips.

Breeder Tulips are a class of out-door Tulips which flower as
late as the Darwins, which have tall stems and noble large elongated

76 GROWING BULBS

flowers of solid art shades, such as purple, maroon, terra cotta, buff
and bronze, and as a companion to the gay Cottage Tulips they are
unsurpassable. The gardener who loves rare colors in flowers will
appreciate these lovely beauties.

Bizarre Tulips.

One of the oldest races of Tulips grown extensively in France and
Holland in the beginning of the seventeenth century, and this class
was responsible for the famous Tulip craze in 1635. They are all
queerly striped and variegated, flower late on tall stems and all have
dark stripes on yellow ground.

Rose Bybloemen Tulips.

These are very similar to the foregoing, except that the flowers
have rose stripes on a white ground.

Violet Bybloemen Tulips.

Exactly like the preceding class, but the flowers have violet stripes
on white ground.

Parrot Tulips.

A very interesting class of Tulips. Their name has been derived
from the colorings of the flowers. They are late in blooming and
have flowers with cut and fringed petals. While the flowers are large,
the tall, slender stems are not stout enough to support them, and for
this reason they are best suited for the shrub or hardy border. Parrot
Tulips can never be guaranteed a flower to every bulb, and on account
of this should be planted thickly in masses.

Single Early Tulips.

The gayest of our garden flowers in the early spring. They are
used to produce a blaze of blossom for two weeks toward the latter
part of April and beginning of May. They are planted by themselves
as regiments, and when they have passed by they are taken up to make
room for our summer flowers.

This treatment pays no heed to their individual beauty or form.
Each plant is considered only as contributing to a great mass of color,
and certainly these masses of color are very splendid.

They are now so plentiful and inexpensive that every garden can
be made glorious with little outlay.

For growing in pots for house blooming during the winter
months this class surpasses all others, and certain varieties are espe-
cially suited for this purpose.

Some of the older sorts, such as “Artus,” “Jagt von Delft” and
others have outlived their usefulness and should not be offered any
more.

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 77

Double Early Tulips.

Double Tulips follow the single Tulips in time of blooming, extend
the flowering season and last much longer in bloom. Some of the
newer sorts are equal to the choicest paeoniesgand the writer has,
often wondered why such magnificent flowers shoul&fot be found
in every better garden. Many a morning I have spent in silent admi-
ration gazing at these beauties and watching them spread their petals
to unfold their grandeur. How well I was repaid for my patience!

We all see much grace in single flowers, but nevertheless I revere
the double Tulip when it revels in its blaze of glory.

Species of Tulips.

Exquisite for their dainty or rich color, their fantastic or rather
artistic form and their peculiar charms. Interesting because they are
natives of Asia Minor and Central Asia, and found there in the valleys
and on the slopes. Valuable because they constitute one of the har-
diest classes of Tulips and, therefore, are ideal for hardy borders, rock-
eries, woods or naturalizing. The petals are usually pointed or re-
flexed. The foliage differs materially from the regular kinds, as some
are almost threadlike. Easy of cultivation, and where ideal conditions
exist they will readily increase and be permanent.

The following varieties I recommend:

AUSTRALIS.—Yellow shaded brown, sweet scented.

CLUSIANA.—One of the daintiest colored and most useful Tu-
lips. The slender stem grows 10 to 12 inches long and carries a long,
narrow, lily-like flower of a delicate pink, broadly margined white;
inside pure white with violet base. For cutting I do not know of a
more exquisite flower or one which would produce a more charming
effect. Can be readily forced.

CORNUTA.—Narrow twisted flower petals of red and yellow;
very odd and artistic.

FLORENTINA ODORATA (SYLVESTRIS).—Pure yellow,
drooping flowers. Exceedingly fragrant and known also as the sweet
wild English Tulip. Fine for naturalizing.

FOSTERIANA.—Brilliant vermillion scarlet. Center marked yel-
low or black. Enormous flowers with long pointed petals. A very
striking new species from Bokhara. Flowers late in April.

GALATICA.—Light yellow with a bright green base.

GREIGII.—A very conspicuous flower of orange scarlet, some-
times showing a tone of deep yellow. Foliage spotted with dark
brown. Rather uncertain as to blooming.

KAUFMANNIANA.—Palest primrose tinged rosy red on outside.
Enormous flower of handsome form with broad, reflexing petals. The
earliest of all Tulips, flowering late in March.

LINIFOLIA.—Small flowers of brilliant vermillion with extremely
narrow willow leaf-like foliage; very interesting.

LOWNEI.—Delicate pink with yellow base; a most curious form.
Splendid for rockery.

MARJOLETTI.—Pale yellow, shaded red at base. Small, but
elegant flower.

78 GROWING BULBS

MAURIANA.—Glowing scarlet, yellow base. From middle till
end of May.
OCULIS SOLIS (COTTON TULIP).—Vermillion, bordered yel-

low, black bas®
(SUAYEOLENS).—Brilliant vermillion scarlet;

PRAE
three to_fiv em.

I—Mrs. Francis King in her description of this
flower says: .““While among the yellow Tulips, Sprengeri, the latest of
all Tulips to bloom, must not be overlooked. To be sure it is not a
yellow “itis %n orange scarlet and thereby related to the yellows.
This Tulip I have growing among close packed roots of a pearl-gray
German Iris. The two come into flower simultaneously. The Tulip
is quite as tall as the Iris and the two flowers are strikingly good to-
gether. Sprengeri grows taller with me than any other Tulip. Itisa
Bereintent grower, too, appearing year after year as do almost no
others.”

TUBERGENIANA.—One of the largest flowered Tulips in exist-
ence. Brilliant vermillion with sharply defined black base. The flow-
ers resemble a monstrous red lily and when seen at noon present a
most marvelous sight. Flowers about May 15th and is showy among
lower evergreens. Height, 14 inches.

TURKESTANICA.—White, with many flowers on a stem.

VIRIDIFLORA (THE GREEN TULIP).—Flowers green edged
yellow; large, odd and handsome.

Watsonia.

Can only be grown in a cool conservatory. In appearance it is
very much like a gladiolus. For its culture see “Growing for the
Conservatory.”

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