I^TS

v-s-x^aw^ ^2S|B^

jesHjA

The Uganda

PROTECTORATE

v^

Ihe Okai-i lUK.iri.l JOJl.W^rONl).

The Uganda

PROTECTORATE

A\ ATTEMPT TO GIVE SOME DESCRIPTION OF THE PHYSICAL
GEOGRAPHY, BOTANY, ZOOLOGY. ANTHROPOLOGY, LANGUAGES
AND HISTORY OF THE TERRITORIES UNDER BRIllSH PROTECTION
IN EAST CENTRAL AFRICA, BETWEEN THE CONGO FREE STATE
AND THE RIFT VALLEY AND BETWEEN THE FIRST DEGREE OF
SOUTH LATITUDE AND THE FIFTH DEGREE OF NORTH LATITUDE

SIR HARRY JOHNSTON

G.C.M.G., K.C.B.

Cold MeJallist Royal Scottish Geographical Society

Gold Medallist Zoological Society

Formerly Special Commissioner to the Uganda Protectorate

etc. , etc.

IX TWO VOLS.

WITH

506 ILLUSTRATIOxXS FROM DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS
BY THE AUTHOR AND OTHERS
48 FULL-PAGE COLOURED PLATES BV THE AUTHOR

AND

9 ^LVPS BV ;. G. BARTHOLOMEW AND THE AUTHOR

London: HUTCHINSOiN dr CO.

Paternoster Row
igo2

PRINTED BY

11A7ELL, WATSON-, AND VIXEV,

LONDON AND AYLESBURY

l;

PREFACE

AND

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

r I ^HE territories which were comprised within tlie Hmits of the
-'- Uganda Protectorate during the time of my administration
of that portion of the British sphere in East Africa certainly
contain, within an area of some loO.OCX) square miles, nearly all
the wonders, most of the extremes, the most signal beauties, and
some of the horrors, of the Dark Continent. Portions of their
surface are endowed with the healthiest climate to be found
anywhere in tropical Africa. 3'et there are also some districts
of extreme insalubrity. The Uganda Protectorate offers to the
naturalist the most remarkable known forms amongst the African
mammals, birds, fish, butterflies, and earth-worms, one of which is as
large as a snake, and is coloured a brilliant verditer-blue. In this
Protectorate there are forests of a tropical luxuriance only to be
matched in parts of the Congo Free State and in the Cameroons.
Probably in no part of Africa are there such vast woods of conifers.
There are other districts as hideousl}^ desert and void of any form
of vegetation as the worst part of the Sahara. There is the largest
continuous area of marsh to be met with in any part of Africa,
and perhaps also the most considerable area of tableland and
mountain rising continuously above t),(Xl) feet. Here is probably
reached the highest point on the whole of the African continent :
namely, the loftiest snow-peak of the Ruwenzori range. Here is
the largest lake in Africa, which gives birth to the main branch
of the longest river in that continent. There mav be seen here
perhaps the biggest extinct volcano in the world — Elgon. The
Protectorate, lying on either side of the equator, contains over a
hundred square miles of perpetual snow and ice ; it also contains

803S25

vi PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

a few spots in tlic relatively low-lying valley of the Nile, where
the average daily heat is perhaps higher than in any other part
of Africa. AVithin the limits of this Protectorate are to be found
specimens of nearly all the most marked types of African man —
Congo Pygmies, and the low ape-like types of the Elgon and Semliki
forests, the handsome Bahima, who are negroids as much related to
the ancient Egyptians as to the average Negro, the gigantic
Turkaua, the wiry, stunted Andorobo, the Apollo-like Masai, the
naked Nile tribes, and the scrupulously clothed Baganda. These
last again are enthusiastic, casuistic Christians, while other tribes of
the Nile Province are fanatical Muhammadans. The Bahima are,
or were, ardent believers in witchcraft; the Basoga polytheists are
burdened with a multiplicit}' of minor deities, while the Masai
and kindred races have practically no religion at all. Cannibalism
lingers in the western corners of the Protectorate : while the
natives of other parts are importing tinned apricots, or are printing
and publishing in their own language summaries of their past
history. This is the country of the okapi, the whale-headed stork,
the chimpanzee and the five-horned giraffe, the rhinoceroses with
the longest horns, and the elephants with the biggest tusks.

Whatever drawbacks may be found in the Uganda Protectorate
from the white man's point of view, monotony or lack of interest
is not among them. The book which follows this Preface is an
imperfect attempt on my part to give those who have not yet
visited Uganda some idea of wlnit is to be seen there, and to
place before them a collection of all the information which I have
been able to obtain personally or through the co-operation of friends
and colleagues as to the geology and biology, the anthropology,
lauii'uag-es, and habits and customs of the manv diverse tribes of

0 0 7 •>

the Protectorate (whose characteristics are fast being blurred and
overlaid by the rapid invasion of the country from the east coast,
and the gradual unification of speech and culture Avhich the
united efforts of Europeans, educated black men. and Indians are
producing). I have spent twenty months in this Protectorate. It
has been, of course, physically impossible to visit every part of
it, and there are some portions even yet that have never been
examined by a European. But where I could not go myself I

PllEFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS vii

sought inforiiiatiou frum others who had visited places and countries
I (hd not reach. Therefore this book is in many ways similar to
the work whicli T ])iil)lished on British Central Africa in 181)7. In
that, as ill tliis. I have to acknowledge with gratitude the help
and co-o})eration of many friends and colleagues who have placed
their stores of information at my disposal.

Amongst these names I should select for special mention Mr.
C. AV. Hobley, Mr. J. F. Cunningham. Mr. George Wilson. C.B..
Mr. AV. Grant, C.M.G., Major C. Delme Radcliffe, Mr. F. J. .Jackson,
C.B., Mr. Alexander AVhj-te, Lieutenant Mundy. Lieutenant-Colonel
J. Evatt. D.S.O., Major Gorges, Dr. Henry Bodeker, Colonel A. II.
Coles, D.S.O., Mr. Harold Baker, Mr. F. AY. Isaac, Captain A\\
Eumbold, Mr. J. Foaker, Mr. S. S. Bagge, Dr. R. U. Moffat, C.M.G..
Mr. F. Spire, Mr. C. AV. Fowler, C.M.G., R.N., Mr. F. Pordage. :SLv.
James Martin, Mr. E. Racey, and the late Major Sitwell and Air. R.
Baile. I also have to acknowledge the receipt of much interesting
and detailed information at different times from the Right Rev.
Alfred Tucker, Bishop of Uganda : Alonseigneur Henri Streicher.
Apostolic A'^icar of the Victoria Nyanza ; and the Right Rev. Henrv
Hanlon, Apostolic A^icar of the Upper Nile ; from the Rev. A. B. Fisher,
the Rev. H. Aladocks, and the Rev. G. Baskerville, of the Church
Missionary Society. It is with })leasure also that I note mv
indebtedness for much interesting information about native customs,
history, and languages, to Apolo Kagwa and Paul Mukwenda.
highly placed native officials in the Kingdom of Uganda : to Josia
Majoje, Government interpreter, and to Kasagama, king of Toro,
and his excellent minister, the Kimbugwe.

I have also to thank that accomplished traveller and si:)ortsman.
Mr. Edward North Buxton, for his kindness in placing at my disposal
his magnificent collection of ])hotographs taken along the banks of
the Upper Nile. I have not been able to utilise these in this book
as fully as I should have liked (having regard to their arti.stic value ),
because most of the scenes and animals they illustrate lay beyond
the }u-ovince of this Protectorate, but such as I have used ai-e a
valuable addition to the liook.

Air. Ernest Gedge has very kindly lent me four of his photogra})hs
illustrating: the summit and interior of the crater of Alount Elaon.

viii PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The thanks of my brother anthropologists (as well as mv own
acknowledgments) are due to Dr. Frank C. Shrubsall for the
a23pendices he has furnished to Chapter XIII. on the anthropometric
observations, and to Chapter XIV. on a Pygmy's skeleton. My book
has furthermore been rendered useful — I might almost say. valuable
— by the list of jDlants drawn up by Mr. AVright. of the Royal
Gardens, Kew, under the direction of Sir "William Thiselton Dyer,
K.C.M.G. : and b}^ the lists of mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, insects,
etc., very kindly supplied by the officials of the Natural History
Museum (Messrs. Oldfield Thomas, Bowdler Sharpe, Charles Chubb.
G. A. Boulenger, Edgar Smith, F. Jeffrey Bell, R. Pocock, A. Butler,
C. Waterhouse, C. Gahan, Ernest Austen, AV. F. Kirby, and
R. Kirkpatrick ), under the direction of Professor E. Ray Lankester.
Messrs. L. Fletcher and G. T. Prior, of the same Department,
have reported on the geological and mineralogical collections.
Dr. P. L. Sclater, Secretary- of the Zoological Society, not only
selected Mr. Doggett to accompany my expedition, but constantly
assisted me with his valuable advice in the matter of making
collections. Sir Thomas Sanderson and Sir Clement Hill, of the
Foreign Office, have kindly corrected the chapters on history and
the Special Commission. The authorities of the Uganda Railway'-
and Mr. D. J. AVilson. of Mombasa, should be thanked for the
care they took to transyjort safely to England all m\' scientific
collections.

I must close this enumeration with a special acknowledgment of
the services rendered to me by Mr. AV. G. Doggett. whom I engaged
originally to accompany me as a taxidermist and photographer,
and who is now in the service of the Scientific DeiDartment of the
Uganda Administration. A large number among the best of the
photographs which illustrate this book, and several of the drawings,
are the work of Mr. Doggett.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I

CHAPTER I

" What the Country looks like " — The Eastern Provixce and the

Rudolf Basin ........... i

CHAPTER II

The Central Province and the Yictoria Nyanza ..... 4:3.

CHAPTER III

The Kingdom of Uq^xda .......... 85-

CHAPTER TV

The Western Province and the Nile . . . . . . .122

CHAPTER V

RUWENZORI AND ITS SnOWS . . . . . . . . . .152

CHAPTER VI

The Semliki Valley and the Congo Forest . . . . . .190

CHAPTER VII
History of the Protectorate Territories ...... 20i>

CONTENTS OF VOL. I

CHAPTER VIII

PAGE

The Work of the Special Commission, etc. . . . . . .248

CHAPTER IX

Commercial Prospects 277

CHAPTER X

Meteorology anu Geology ......... 300

CHAPTER XI

Botany — Appendix: List of Flora of Uganda Protectorate . . . .313

CHAPTER XII

Zoology — Appendices : Lists of Fauna (mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes,

land shells, butterflies, beetles, orthoptera, spiders, polyzoa, etc., etc.)'. 352

COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I

>'0. TITLE.

1. The Okapi (Okapia johnstoni)

2. A chat of Lake Naivasha in courting attitude

'^. Flamingoes on Lake Hannington {P/tn nironais ndnor)

4. The five-horned giraffe

.5. Jackson's hartebeest .......

G. Grant'.s gazelle

7. Acantlms arhoreux ........

8. Columhd i/iiineii : a common pigeon on Mount Elgon .

9. A view north of Mount Elgon, towards Karamoj

thunderstorm sweeping u])

10. Spathodca nilotica . . - ...

11. Schizorhis zonura

VI. " Summer isles of Eden set in dark i)ur])le spheres of .sea'

( the Sese Islands)

18. The whale-headed stork at home

14. " Death" — the Gaboon puff-adder [Bltix f/ahoiura)

15. A landscaj^e in Uganda (Bwekula) ....
IG. A causeway through swampy forest, Uganda

17. Erijthrina tomentosa : the ekirikiti tree

18. Violet plantain-eaters at play .....

19. A crater lake, Aiikole

20. Pygmy geese {Ndtopuf) ......

21. A landscape in Western Uganda ; .showing flowers (

Emilia .....■■■

22. Bateleur eagle striking a young jackal ....

23. Bakmiccpx rex (the whale-headed stork)

24. Duwoni iwak (Ruwenzori) at dawn ....

25. Kiyanja peak of Ruwenzori, from the Mubuko Valley

mid-day ...-..■■•

2G. 6'rtZ/(7Y.r ./o/ih.s^oh/ : the turaco of Ruwenzori

27. Crimson-breasted barbets

28. Head of the Semliki waterbuck {('ohus de/amo .

29. The large genet of the Semliki Forest (G'enetta victoria)

'So. A landscape on the Mau Plateau

'M. Sunflowers in Uganda

32. Colohux ocvidcntaUa : the common colobus monkey <

Central Africa

SOURCE.

Paintinr/ hii the

Author
„ To

( Frontis-
I piece.
face p. 10
IG
25
27
40
4(5
58

Gl
C8
74

7G
8t
94
lOG
UO

hi;

119
124

128

139
141
144

l.")8

17G

1.S7
181»
192
20G
299

:U'.i

a=2

xii COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I

NO. TITLE.

33. The white-nosed Ccrcopitliccus monkey of Uganda

34. The serval eat

35. A jackal of Uganda

3(3. Uazella thomsoni .........

37. The king of the widow finches [Clara) . . . . .

38. Widow birds and bishop finches (Pcnthctria and Ptjro-

mclana) : grass-lands, Eastern Province . . . .

39. The great blue plantain-eater (Cor^V^/tffoZrt cr/.s^f^i)

40. " Happy dreams " : a sleeping crocodile . . . .

41. A iV('/)/( //« spider from Toro : lialf natural size

42. The " King of the Sparrows " (Di'/io^eW/rt) . . . .

SOIRCE.

Paintini/ h[i the Author.

To fac

"p. 36+

11 -1 11

3«7

11 51 )'

36&

11 11 »'

390

„

397

„

399'

,, ,, ,, ,

401

,, ,, ,,

406

Puintiiu/ hij Mr. Do<j<jttt ,

410-

Paintinij hii the Author ,

44a

MAPS IN VOL. I

1. Uganda Protectorate, showing administrative divisions ....

2. Uganda Protectorate ; general orographical features and salubrity

3. Sketcli-map5 showing our knowledge of the epiatorial lakes accordin

different travellers at different periods

4. Uganda Protectorate ; density of native pujiulation and European settlements

5. Uganda Protectorate ; prevailing religions and forms of belief

6. Uganda Protectorate ; distribution of rainfall and navigable waterways

7. General distribution and range of vegetation .

To face p.

to

1
209-

222

248
276
302
312.

BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I

NO.
1.

2.
3.

4.

8.

9.
10.
11.

12.
18.

14.
Id.
IG.
17.

TITI E.

Andorobo devouring raw a dead waterbuck
An Andorobo drinking as primitive man drank

"Many little isolated craters*'

Steam rising from volcanic cracks, El Burro
Steam rising from fissure. El Burro . . . .
Cliffs and boulders on north shore of Lake Naivasha
Lake Naivasha, eastern shore ....
North-east corner of Lake Naiva-ha . . . .
Lake Nakuro, from the north-svest . . . .
Lake Hannington and its flamingoes . . . .
Dead trees standing far out in the water of Lake

Hannington
Flamingoes' nests, I^ake Hannington .
" Half a million of flamingoes : " north end of Lake

Hannington .......

The south-east corner of Lake Baringo
Acacia-trees, near Baringo .....

Cliffs near the south-west corner of Baringo
Strange termite ("'ant") hills found throughout the

Bariuao and Kudolf regions ....

SOURCE. PACE

Photoriraph hij Mr. Dotjfjdt .3

4

Pltotwjraiili hi/ 1he Author 5

10
11
12

18. Lake Baringo, from the western shore

19. Juniper-trees, Nandi Plateau ....

20. Grass on the Gwas' Ngishu Plateau .

21. Cutting up game, Gwas" Ngishu Plateau .

22. On the Nandi Plateau, looking towards Lumbwa

23. Bamboo forest behind Eldama llavine

24. Bamboo forest, Nandi Road, 9,000 feet

25. Bamboo forest, Nandi Road, 9,000 feet

26. A cascade at the llavine station

27. Near the Mau summit, Uganda Railway .

28. Mount Londiani, Nandi Plateau (8,000 feet)

29. '• Many a lovely bower "

30. Wild bananas (J/^^<rt e/isttc) ....

31. On Kavirondo Bay, Victoria Nyanza .

32. In the Nandi Forest

33. In the Nandi Forest

34. " The Kavirondo before they wore trousers " .

3:"). Crossing the Nzoia River

3G. Forest on the south-western foot-hills of Mount
Elgon .........

37. Vegetation, P,OU0 feet, Mount Elgon . . . .

' Draicing hij the A uthor, j

from Phototjraph hy Mr. -

H. n. Baker. )

Photograph hy the Author

( Phofor/raph hy Colonel A.\
\ If. Coles. j

Photograph hy the Author

13

14

15
17
18
19

21

24
25
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
3G

38
39
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44

45
4G

xiv ELACK AND AYHITE ILLUSTRATIONS IN A OL. I

^ Pliotoiiniph J)ij Mr. Kfn.cd\
\ Gediic. /

XO. TITLE. .SOURCE.

38. Large white balsam on Mount Elgon . . . PJiotoiirapli Tnj tlu

39. Entrance to cave, South Elgon ....

40. Thomson Falls, River Sasuiii, screening niouth ot

cave : South Elgon ......

41. House inside cave. South Elgon.

42. Wall of cave-house ......

43. Entrance to cave partially closed with sticks and stone

44. " Tremendous buttresses and precipitous cliffs "

45. Masaba village, West Elgon ....

46. Cascade, " Osborne " Falls, North Elgon .

47. Crossing West Elgon rivers ....

48. Crater wall of Elgon, seen from the west .

49. Edge of crater wall, Elgon, from the east (over

13.000 feet)

50. The highest point of the crater rim (14,200 feet)

51. The Jackson-Gedge Expedition on the top of Moun

Elgon . .

52. The descent to the central crater of Elgon (from ;

point on the lim about 13,500 feet in altitude)
Shows tree groundsels and other Alpine vegetatior

53. A distant view of Mount Debasien (from north-easi

Elgon), with Suk pyramidal hills in foreground

54. Looking towards the plains of Bukedi from western

slopes of Elgon ......

55. " Elgumi people clustering on ant-hills " .
5G. A lane in Busoga .......

57. "The Birth of the Nile" (Kipon Falls)

58. Napoleon Gulf (looking south) and the " row of wliit

fangs" (an ancient rocky barrier) .

59. The Eipon Falls at the birth of the Nile .

60. The Kipon Falls

61. The Eipon Falls, from Bugungu ....

62. The Eipon Falls, from Bugungu ....

63. Forest on the shores of an island

64. Coast of the main island, Sese ....

65. Natives of the Sese Islands ....

66. Speke's tragelaph (^Lvmnotragns spehcl)

67. A creek on the Victoria Nyanza ....

68. Ambatch-trees (in foreground) ....

69. Water-lilies, Victoria Nyanza ....

70. Yellow water-lil)^ on the Victoria Nyanza .

71. The great Victoria Nyanza . . . . . .A Dran-huj hy the

72. Marsh in Uganda (with native causeway) . . I'lwto(jrapU 1)ij the

73. Forest by the shores of the Victoria Nyanza .

74. Forest in Uganda

75. The lianas of the rubber vines, Uganda forest .

76. Erythrina tree in blossom .....

77. Dracienas, Uganda forest .....
7.S. Wild banana, Uganda forest ....
79. Kaphia palms, Uganda forest ....
NO. Eaphia palms, Uganda forest ....

81. Wild date palms {Phoenix aj/mosa '/), Uganda .

82. The banana of Uganda (one of the thirty odd

varieties) ........

A 1(1 hi

A Prarclny hy the Autlior
P\otoyraph hy the Autlior

I'AGE

47

48

49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57

58
59

60

61

Photoyraph hy the Author 62

63

(U
65
67

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.,

79

SO

81

Avthor

83

Avthor

86

.,

87

88

.,

89

,,

90

91

92

93

96

97

BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I xv

S8. A banana plantation ....

54. " Happy Uganda ! " .
S;j. Reed fences in an Uganda town
S6. Kampala (a suburb of Mengo) .
H7. Grass ... in Uganda!

55. Causeway or bridge, Uganda
s<). Papyrus in an Uganda marsh
'.to. Flowers on the edge of an Uganda swamp
i)I. In a swamp forest, Uganda.
!I2. Tea on the road, Uganda .
!>?>. A present of food, Uganda .
!t4. A band of music, Uganda .

y.'). In Buddu

!•(). A path in the IJotanical Gardens, Entebbe

i)7. In Ankole ......

I)S. A crater lake .....

9!'. A crater lake .....

101). A corner of a crater lake .

101. Lake Albert Edward, from Katwe (Katwe Gulf)

102. Lake Albert Edward, Katwe Gulf {note the candelabra

euphorbias) .....

lo;!. The salt lake at Katwe

104. The Kafuru Strait between Lakes Albert Edward

and Dweru . . . • .

105. '• The Mpanga looks very like a mountain stream in

Scotland" ......

106. Pandanns on the Durra River

107. In the Mpanga Forest, Toro

108. In the Mpanga Forest, Toro

109. The Borassus palm, South Toro .

110. In Eastern Toro

111. On a Toro river

112. A mountain stream (the Rnimi) .
118. On the banks of the Ruimi, Central Toro .
114. Country with Boratisits palms at the south end of

lake Albert .......

11.5. "White-eared cobus antelopes" on the Nile

110. Marabou storks on the Nile

117. On the Nile below Gondokoro ....

118. Saddle-billed storks on the Nile ....

119. Bastard hartebcest on Nile banks
I'JO. Sudd on the Nile

121. Floating islands and water-lilies on the Nile

122. The ambatch-tree

121). A general view of the Ruwenzori range from

imaginary standpoint thirty miles due east .

124. A bit of Ruwenzori, from the Semliki Valley on the
west .........

120. Author in "climbing' costume, clothed to resist cok

on Ruwenzori .......

12(;. Dracicnas on Ruwenzori (6,000 feet) .

127. Tree-ferns on Ruwenzori at 7,000 feet

12s. Podocarjnis on Ruwenzori (7,500 feet)

129. Hypericum and ferns, Ruwenzori (10,000 feet) .

SOURCE.

rhofocjvapli hij the Aiithnr

j Photograph ly the lute]
{ Major Sit >r ell. (

/ Phof'oyraph hy Mr. E. X. \
y Bn.rton. (

Photograph hy Mr. Day yet t

A Drairiny hy the Author

Photoyraph hy the Aiithor

Photoyraph hy Mr. Doyyett
Photoyraph by the Author

PACE

99
100
101
102
in;}
105
107
109
110
111

ii;5

115
117
119
122
123
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127

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Ml

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143
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14S
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153

154

155
156
157
158
159

xvi BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I

KO. TITLE.

13(\ A triant prounflsel (Senecio johustoni) at an altitude

\'l 12,500 feet . . '.

11^1. Lohelia stuhlmannl .......

l;!2. Liibelia (fccJ/eni ........

133. Details of flowers and section of stalk-coluiiin of

Lobelia (/efJte7ii .......

134. Seneeio joJmstfl?ii hung: with Vsnea lichen .

135. Mosses coverino- trunks of tree-heaths, Ruwenzori

(11,000 feet)

136. Moss covering tree-tranks at 11.500 feet .

137. Iiuwenzori, 11, .500 feet: Lobelia stnhlmanni (growing

in foreground like a dracana) and tree-heaths

138. A hot spring, eastern side of IJuwenzori, close to

Kiiirai liiver, at 5,500 feet

139. Vegetation (lobelias and senecios) on Iiuwenzori at

"8,500 feet (Mubuko Valley) . . . . .

140. " A most arduous climb" : our way up the mountain

over tree-trunks at 10,000 feet . . . .

141. A rock shelter. Kuwenzori (Buamba camp. 11,500 feet)

142. ■■ A beautiful swampy garden'" : Upper Jlubuko Valley

at 11,000 feet .' "

143. Lobelia deekeni. senecios, tree-heaths, and everlasting

flowers in Upper Mubuko Valley at 11,300 feet .

144. Waterfall at Buamba camp ......

145. View of Kivanja peak from Upper Mubuko Vallev at

11,300 feet " .

14G. View of Kivanja peak from Buamba camp, ll,5O0 feet
(the trees are arboreal heaths) ....

147. "Blackberries on Ruwenzori": the fruit of Bubus

dofjgetti, 12,500 feet

148. The snow-fields of Kuwenzciri between Kivanja and

Duwoni peaks, seen from the rock slielter at
12,500 feet

149. The base of the Mubuko glacier (13,000 feet) .

150. "Ice and snow under the equator": the Mubuko

glacier at 13,500 feet

151. On the ice of the Mubuko glacier (13,534 feet)

152. An ice cavern, Mubuko glacier (13,534 feet)

153. The ice melting : source of the Mubuko River

(13,534 feet)

154. The upper part of the Mubuko glacier near the

southern base of Duwoni peak

155. Tropical forest and hot spring, north-west flanks of

Ruwenzori (the natives are Baamba) .

156. A Borassns palm, Semliki Valley

157. Waterbuck of Upper Semliki Valley .

158. The Semliki River opposite Fort Mbeni

159. The Middle Semliki near the southern edge of the

great Semliki (Congo) Forest

160. In the Congo Forest : a clearing near Lupanzula's

161. Path through Congo Forest near Lupanzulas .

162. In the Congo Forest, north-west of Mbeni: an

Mbuha clearing ......

163. In the Congo Forest ......

164. A stream in the forest depths where we saw

footprints of the okapi

rhotoijraiili ly the

AvfJio)-

160
161
162

A Drairint/ by the

Author

163

Photoyrapli by the

Author

164

165
166

167

16S

1C9

170
171

late\

( Photograjfh by ih

\ Major SitiveU. /

Photograjih by the Author

172

173
174

176

177

178

179
180

181
183
185

186

187
188

191
193
194

195
197
199

2C0
201

203

BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I xvii

165. An affluent of the Semliki, Congo Forest .
1(56. The Semliki in the grass-hinds immediately south of
Lake Albert Nj'anza

167. A chimpanzee of tiie Congo Forest ....

168. Young male elephant killed in Ruabaru gorge .

169. Blue beads in a Ja-luo's ear, Kavirondo .

170. A Muhima

171. A Hima ox

172. A Maskat Arab trader in Uganda ....

173. An Arab trader in Uganda ......

174. A Swahili (Zanzibari) trader in Uganda .

17.'>. Chief Luba (of Busoga), the executioner of Bishop
Hannington. (Luba is the seated figure ; the
other two are Lis son and, in the background,
one of the Sudanese ex-mutineers who revolted
at Luba's Fort in 1897)

176. Ex-king Kabarega in the custody of an L^ganda

chief, the Kakungulu (after his capture by
Lieutenant-Coknel Evatt in 1809; Kabarega is
the seated figure with bandages on Lis arms)

177. Sudanese soldiers: kit inspection . . . .

178. A loyal Sudanese native officer: Kehan Effendi

179. A Sudanese soldier (author's orderly, Sergeant Fadl

al Mallah, a native of the Logbwari country, and
6 feet 3 inches tall)

180. Tree outside Luba's (now Fort Thruston) under

which Major Thruston was killed by the muti-
neers

181. Steam-launch Victoria (now plying again on the

Nyanza) .........

182. Mr. F. J. Jackson, C.B

183. Mwanga, ex-king of L^ganda (the figure on the right-

1 and side), in charge of an Uganda native officer,
Andrea . .

184. Daudi Chua, infant king of Uganda, with his two

sisters (the figure on the right is Muywanya,
cne of the regents) ......

185. Mr. W. G. Dnggett. naturalist on the Special Com-

rtissioner's staff, engaged in measuring a Muamba
Negro .........

186. Ali Kiongwe, the autboi's Swahili "head-man"'

187. Tl e author's Somali ''major-domo," Ahmad bin Warfa

188. The little king of Uganda

189. The king of Uganda inspecting Lis Indian guard of

honour ...

190. Hoima, the new capital of Unyoro, established in

1900 by Mr. George Wilson, C.B

191. A bungalow at Hoima .......

192. "Government House "' at Hoima, L'nyoro, in process

of building ........

193. The temporary residence of the collector for the

Unyoro District .......

194. The author's bungalow (•' Commissioner's House ") at

Entebbe, built by Mr. Spire

195. A luncheon at Entebbe on the late Queen's birthday
VOL. L

SOlU( K.

Photo(jra2>h bij the Author

A Dra.riiKj hy the Author
Photograph by the Author
A iJratring by the Author
Photograph by the Author

I Photoqraph btf Captain \

\ Chxttij, r.s.'c.

Photograph by the Autlior
^Phtoyraph by the late}
{ Major Situ-eU. /

Photoijraph bq Captain
Chitty, I.S.'C.

Photoyrapti by the Author

\ Photograph by Mr. (rtorge}
{ ]\'iko)i. ' )

PAfJE

204

2(J5
206
207
209
211
213
215
217
-2'2n

229
235

237
239

Ph tograph by Mr. Doyyett 240

Photograph by the Author 241

242
243

245

Photoyraph hy Mr. Boyyctt 246

249

250
251
253

254
255
256

257

258

259
261

xviii BLACK AXD WHITE ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I

197.
198.
199.
200.
201.
202.

203.
204.

205,
206.
207.

208.

209.
210.
211.
212.

213.

214.
215.
216.
217.
218.
219.
220.

221.
222.
223.

224.

225.
226.

227.
228.
229.
230.
231.
232.
233.

234.
235.

The first bow window in Entebbe

In the author's spitting-room at Entebbe .

The author's study at Entebbe ....

The author's dining-room at Entebbe

The SS. William Macliinnon ....

On the deck of the William Mackinnm .

The William Maclnnnon and the Government dan

Winifred at Entebbe

A missionary's house, Uganda ....

" Companions in captivity '" : young elephant and

zebra at Entebbe

A sunflower with nearly 300 blossoms on it at Entebbe
A rubber-tree {Taherncemoutana) . . . .

The White Man's Country: Nandi Plateau, Eastern

Province .........

Flat-topped acacia (growing at about 6,000 feet

under the equator), very characteristic of the

hilly Central African regions

Curious fungus common in forest regions .
A Podocarpns (yew) tree on Nandi Plateau

Junipers on Mount Elgon

Lobelias (Z. stuldmanni 7) and kniphofias growing

at 10,010 feet on Kandi Plateau . . . .
Erytlirina toinentosa (akin to the "Kaffir P>oom " of

South Africa)

Crinum lily

Eaphia palm of Uganda, fruiting . . . .
Cycads' mode of growth in Toro . . . .

The cone of a cycad

Pandamm, or screw pine

Papyrus in blossom .......

The zebra of the Elgon District : Grant's zebra

{Equus hurchelli granti ?)

A male chimpanzee .......

Head of chimpanzee from Toro , . . . .

Eleanor and her nurse (a female Dog vera baboon

from the Semliki Forest)

Two babv baboons {Papio dogvera?) from the Rift

Valley . . . . '

The red colobus from Toro {Colohus rufo^nitratvn) .
The Cape jumping hare (a clumsy jerboa) : Pedetes

caffer .........

Young elephant and zebra at Entebbe

A young zebra ........

A male rhinoceros {Diceros hii'orius) . . . .

Young Grant's zebra, Uganda

Young male of five-horned giraffe . . . .
Old male of five-horned giraffe . . . . .
Female of Uganda five-hcrned giraffe (the female

has only three horns)

Head of the okapi .......

A cow of the Ankole (Hima) breed of cattle (the

cows have usually longer horns than the bulls) .

SOURCE.

f Photoqrapli hy Mr. George\
\ Wihon. /

Phoiograpli hg Mr. Doggett

^ Pliotoi/raph hg Colon''l A."\
\ II. 'Colrs. J

Pliotograpli hy the, Author
Photograph hg Mr. Doggett

Photograph hy the Author

A Drairing hg the Author
Photograph hg the Author

A Dramng by the Author
Phoiograj}h by the Author

PAGE

262

263
264
265
269
271

273
275

287
291
295

297

313
314
315
316

317

318
319
320
.321

322
323
351

354
356
358

360

361
363

3(;9
370
371
373
374
376
378

379
381

385

BLACK AND WHITE ILLUSTRATIOXS IX VOL. I xix

NO. TITL"^.

236. The common diiyker antelope of East and South-

East Africa {CcphahtplniH griinmi)

237. A steinbuck {Ba/ihicerun) of the Eastern I'rovince

of the Ugandi Protectorate .

238. Horns of Cobug defasxa (?) from the Semliki Valley
239 Thomas's kob {Cobus thomad)

240. White-eared kob {Cubns lo/cotis)

241. Baker's roan antelope (Hippotrar/us baheri)

242. A pailah antelope (Baringo)

243. Heads of Coke's hartebee.-t {Bubalis cokei)

244. Speke's tragelaph {LUinwtragus upekei)

245. Feet of Llmnotraghtt xprl-ci ....

246. Female of Grant's gazelle ....

247. Heterocorax capensls .....

248. Bhinocovax affini» (the slender-billed crow of Nandi)

249. The ostrich of the northern parts of the Uganda

Protectorate {S rti'lno camelus) . . . .

250. A new chameleon from Piuwenzori {Cltanueleim

john^toni) .........

251. Another new chameleon frum Paiwenzori (6'. xtiio-

rhinus) .........

252. A mantis insect

253. A brace of whale-headed storks

Pho',t.ir.q>k bi/ the Author 386

A Dra'viyiy by the Author

Photngrajih by, the Author

A Drairing by the Author

^Photograph by Mr. E. \.\

\ Buxton. j

Photograph by the Author

A Drawing by the Author
Photograph by the Author
A Drai'ing by the Author

I From a Lithograph Drair- \
y inj by Mr. F. G. Smit* f

A Braieing by Mr. Doggctt
Photograph by the Author

3S7
388
389

390

.391
392
393
394
39.5
396
398
399

405

407

408
412
444

Bj" leni.ission of the Zoological Society

ORTHOGRAPHY

The orthography of native words and names used throughout this book (except
in the vocabularies) is that of the Royal Geographical Society. All the consonants
are pronounced as in English (except " n," which stands for the nasal consonant in
" ringmg," " han/j "), and the vowels as in Italian.

UGANDA PROTECTORATE
SHOWING THE ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISIONS^

Til* Edmbnrgli Oeopapliiftl Ins

THE UGANDA PROTECTORATE

CHAPTER I

THE EASTERN FROVINCE AND THE
BIWOLF BASIN

IT may be well to commence this book with an attem[)t to give in words
and pictures some idea of the general aspect of the Protectorate,
taking its provinces in turn, and illustrating either their more remarkable
features or a generalised summary of their normal landscapes ; and into
this description to introduce, of course, the human types, animals, or
vegetation characteristic of the scene.

This cursory survey of the lands which were grouped under the Uganda
Administration shall commence with the Eastern Province* ; touch lightly
on the less known countries grouped together in the Provinces of Rudolf
and the Nile ; portray some of the features of the Central Province and
of the better-known Kingdom of Uganda ; then take the reader into the
Western Province that skirts the Congo Free State and includes Mount
Kuwenzori ; and close with a brief description of that wonderful Congo
Forest which stretches almost uninterruptedly in some directions from the
west coast of Africa and the Eiver Benue to the portals of the Uganda
Protectorate.

The Eastern Province is divided into the districts of Man, Piaringo,
8uk, and Nandi. Its human inhabitants mainly belong to the fine, liand-
some Masai race and the peoples of Nandi and Suk stock (closely allied
in racial origin to the Masai), while in the coast regions bordering the
Victoria Nyanza there are a few Nilotic and Bantu Negroes. Amongst
the dense forests, the game-haunted wildernesses, and unfrequented plateaux,
wanders a mongrel nomad race, the Audorobo, who represent a mixture of
Nandi, Masai, and some antecedent negro race of dwarfish, Bushman
stock. These Andorobo reproduce in a most striking manner the life
which we may suppose to have been led ]\v our lar-away ancestors or
predecessors in the earliest Stone Ages. They live entirely by the chase,
often consuming the flesh of birds and beasts uncooked. Though they

* Now transferred to the Administration of the East xVfrica Protectorate.
VOL. I. 1

2 . THE EASTERN PROVINCE

commit con>ideralile deva-tatious among tlie game of the province, they
are a picturesque feature when encountered, and a s-triking illustration,
handed down through the ages, of the life of primitive man not long after
he had attained the status of humanity and had acquired a knowledge of
the simplest weapons.

The Eastern Province contains the celebrated Eift A'alley, and the harsh.
almost desert regions north of Lake Baringo ; the splendid stretch of
mountains and plateaux known from north to south in its different portions
as Chibcharaiian, Elgeyo, Kamasia, Nandi, Mau, Lumbwa, Sotik — the future «
white man's colony (a country of rolling grass-lands, dense forests of conifers,
and bamboo-covered mountains) ; and a small portion of the north-eastern
coast of the Victoria Xyanza, where the plateaux variously named break off
into shelves and hollows and ridges, until they come down in a tumbling
mass of mountains interspersed with marshes and the deltas of rivers into
the stagnant gulf of Kavirondo Bay or the bright blue waters of the main
lake. 8outh of Lake Naivasha the territory of the Eastern Province
stretches in a narrowing angle towards German East Africa, and the country
in this direction becomes increasingly ai'id and lacking in rainfall, though
it does not attain the almost desert character reached in the direction
of Lake Kudolf. The plateau of the ]Mau also diminishes in altitude
towards the German frontier, and the forests of conifers give way to dense
woods of a more tropical character, or to spacious prairies used by the Masai
as grazing grounds.

The Kift Valley and the Nandi Plateau * are the two main geographical
features of the Eastern Province. The Rift Valley is a remarkable depression
or narrow plain (dotted here and there with broken hills, active and extinct
volcanoes), which would seem to stretch in a more or less defined condition
from the vicinity of Lakes Eukwa and Xvasa on the south-west, north-
eastwards to the Gulf of Tajurra and the Gulf of Aden. Looking at a
relief map of Africa one is almost tempted to connect this narrow plain
(which winds between the mighty cliffs of tilted jjlateaux) with the Rift
Valley of Lake Nyasa, the Shire, and the Lower Zambezi ; and to hazard
the theory that it is the vestige of an ancient strait or arm of the sea
that cut off at one time another and huger Madagascar. But I am not
aware that this theorv has any geological facts in its favour.

The Rift Valley from Lake Rukwa "^ on the south to the Gulf of Aden

* To avoid an inconvenieiit string of names being quoted every time tliis region
is referred to, it is better to apply the word " Nandi " to the whole of the lofty region
between the Eift Valley on the east, the German frontier on the south, Alount
Chibcharafian on the north, and the Victoria Nyanza coast-lands on the west.

t It is perhaps scarcely necessary to remind the reader that Lake Rukwa is a
large salt or brackish sheet of water near the south-east corner of Lake Tanganvika.

it ,^wk I .

THE EASTERN PllOYTNCE 5

in the north is strewn along its course and up its branches and blind alleys
with a succession of lakes, large and small, fresh and salt. There is no need
to enumerate here those which do not come within the limits of the I'ganda
Protectorate. Those which do are Lakes Naivasha (fresh), Elmenteita and
Nakuro (salt), Hannington, liaringo, and Sugota (brackish), and the great
Lake Kudolf, which is either brackish or only just potable. There are also
not a few pools and lakelets as yet unnamed and undescribed, some of which
are fresh and others salt. In the case of the bigger lakes, the degree of
potability of the water depends a great deal on the recent rainfall and the
extent to which the evaporation is exceeded by the supply. Aery often,
when the water of tlie bigger lakes is undrinkable close to the shore, half
a mile farther out it may be relatively fresh. Where this depression of

MAW LITTLE ISOLATED CHATEK?^

the Eift Valley begins, somewhere in the neighbourhood of Lake Jiukwa,
it lies at an altitude probably not much exceeding 2,500 feet. It rises
in height by degrees as it is followed northwards, till on the southern
frontier of the Eastern Province the altitude is not far short of 4,000 feet.
This rise continues till at Lake Naivasha the altitude is 6,300 feet, and
the Rift Valley is here at its apex. It is as though this rilibon of depression
bad been arched in the centre of its long course, for from Lake Xaivasha
northwards tlie general level of the Rift A'alley slowly decreases till at
Lake Rudolf it is only 1,200 feet above sea level, and from this point
again, with a few occasional upheavals and ridges exce])ted, it dwindles
down to sea level at the Gulf of Tajurra.

The Rift A'alley makes a most striking frontier for the Eastern Province.
The Kikuyu Plateau stretching northwards into the Laikipia Escarpment
forms its eastern cliifs, and from these forested heiglits, ranging in altitude

6

THE EASTERN PROYIXCE

4. STEAM Kl.SlXG FKU.M \UL('AMC t'KAt'KS, EL BURKO

between nearly 8,000 and 13,000 feet, one looks down, often over sheer
precipices, on to a relatively flat plain below — thirty miles, forty miles,
fifty miles broad — flanked on the opposite side by other mountain walls
nearly as tremendous in altitude. Although from these heights the Eift
A'alley looks a smooth, flat plain, still its surface is studded every now
and then with a huge extinct volcano like Longonot (a grey-brown cone
with little vegetation on its sides), sierras and tongues of lava-covered
hills, and many little isolated craters. Between Suswa on the south (a
mountain as sterile in vegetation as Longonot) and Lake Xakuro on the
north, the signs of past and present volcanic activity are numerous,
"present" activity being represented by the steaming fissures in the
broken ground about El Burro. The rocks are cpiite warm about these
long cracks, from which steam is continually rising. The fissures look as
if they were quite a recent rent in the earth, ►'sometimes this rent is so
sharply cut, and follows so straight a course, that it might be a military
entrenchment newly made by man.

AND THE nUDOLF BASIX 7

The traveller from Mombasa before reaching the frontier of the Uganda
Protectorate has passed tliroiigh the country of Kikuyu. which is relatively
well forested, while the ground is richly clothed with vegetation. As he
descends into the Kift Valley, the Kikuyu vegetation decreases in luxuriance,
and a very prominent feature is a ])articularly uglv form of drac;ena
(a kind of tree-lily), with stitf sword-leaves of sicklv vellow-green.
The mass of Longonot and the distant outline of the Suswa crater already
referred to are imposing objects, but present very little vegetation with
which to diminish the desert-like appearance of the scene. Towards the
south end of Lake Naivasha there are many isolated pinnacles and fragments
of rock. Along the western shores of Naivasha the vegetation becomes
much richer, especially on the steep slopes of the Mau Plateau edge. All
along the eastern borders of the lake there is sweet, short grass, kept low
by the browsing of innumerable gazelles and the herds of ^Nlasai sheei)
and cattle. Near Naivasha station the Kikuyu Escarpment, descending in
a series of terraces, terminates abruptly in precipitous cliffs on the edges
of which huge boulders and monoiyths are poised. The shores of Naivasha
are in many places thickly belted with papyrus, which is growing at an
altitude (6,300 feet) and in a mean temperature not usually associated with

5. STEAM RISING FROM FISSIRE, EL HURUO

6. t'lJI-lS A^D BOIIDEKS ON NOKIH sI|(IK^ (it I \W] \\]\ \sl| \

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

9

tliis rusli. (hi the iiortlieru shores of Naivasha there are patches of fairly
dense forest composed almost entirely of acacias. There is a great deal of
water-weed in this lake, which at certain times of the year makes portions of
its surface absolutely orange-brown. Naivasha, which in the Masai tongue
is really called '' Naiposha,"* contains two large islands, one of no particular
interest near the north-west corner, and the other a little more than a
mile from the south-east coast. This one, additionally connected with
the shore by means of an intervening islet, is within reach by swimming

LAKK ^"AIVA^^HA : EASTERN SHOKE

of various types of large game, while on the other hand t!ie water to be
traversed has served to cut off the island from visits by man. local and
native man belonging to the Masai and kindred tribes being entirely
unpossessed of canoes, and not much given to swimming. The result is
that until within recent years a boat was placed by the local Administration
on Naivasha. these islands liad probably never been visited, and the
antelopes and other game living on them were found to be extraordinarily
tame. There are no crocodiles in Lake Naivasha. though there are

* Like so many other African names, the incorrect version is sealed for ever
through the carelessness in hearing and transcribing on the part of the first
explorers.

10

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

hippopotamuses and numbers of otters. It was formerly stated that there
were no fish, but my assistant, ]Mr. Doggett, discovered small fish there
belonging to the types he has elsewhere found in this chain of lakes in

-\<ji;tii-kast cukxei'l uf lakh ^ai\'a.siia

the Eift Valley. The water-birds are not quite so abundant as formerly,
owing to the extent to which they have been shot at by Europeans ; but
during one visit to the lake we enjoyed a beautiful spectacle of rosy
flamingoes in regiments of thousands lining the northern shore ; though
effects of this description pale before the million flamingoes of Lake
Hannington, to be described later on. Lake Naivasha much resembles an
Irish lough as seen from the eastern shore. There is a relative scarceness
of trees on the noble mountains* which encircle it on the north and west;
but the cloud shadows on these — their moorland tones of brown and green
and mauve (the distant peaks and ridges being steeped in the ultramarine
of distance) — greatly resemble Ireland's melancholy mountains.

There is one little object which is sure to strike the observant traveller
with an eye for small beauties and an ear for pleasing sounds. Anywhere

* Eising to an altitude of 10,000 feet, or nearly 4,000 feet above the lake
surface.

^t^

A ClIAl Ol-- LaKK XaIVASHA in ( orRTlNG AITITUDE.

AND THE RUDOLF EASIX

11

near tlie IMasai kraals, the Andorobo encani}iinents, or European .settlements
in this region, a charming little bird, a s[)ecies of chat (Mf/naecocich/a
crypfoletica), may be seen in numbers, quite as tame as the London sparrow.
The bird in liotli sexes is black (though the female has a brownish tinge),
with the exception of a patch on the pinion, which is snow-white. 'J'he
male appears to be always courting the female, at any rate during a
good proportion of the year. When engaged in this pleasing pastime,
he sings with the most penetrating sweetness until almost intoxicated
with his own melody. This feeling of great elation causes him
to expand his tail into a fan over his back, spread his wings, and
hop before the seemingly indifferent female. Xo description of the
Rift Valley would be complete without the introduction of these chats,
who are every wliere present and always dancing and singing while the
sun shines.

Beautiful scenery characterises the western side of Lake Nakuio.
The vegetation is, perhaps, rather harsh and East African in appearance,
except for a noble wood of acacias at the north corner of this little lake.
There is a weird picturesqueness where the rising heights of the Mau

c,. LAKii -NAkLliO, iKOM THE NOKTH-WKST

Plateau fall in abrupt precipices down to the waters of Nakuro, hung
with vegetation of that rather savage, grotesque aspect associated with
gouty or spidery euphorbias, aloes, and thorny acacias. Enormous baboons

THE easteux province

13

perch themselves hke i'antastic P'gyptian sculptures on every junnaele or
boulder. On the grassy uplands skirting the precijuces the sleek cattle
of the .Alasai are feeding, accomijanied by herdsmen like Greek statues
in terra cotta, these pastoral scenes having for a background the ultra-
marine waters of the lake 1,000 feet below.

Two or three days' journey over grassy downs where the zebras browse
in their thousands, where the climate is European, and the heart is glad
with the delicious air and the harmless sunshine, would bring one from
Nakuro northwards to a more broken surface of the Kift A'allev, where its

II. DEAD TREES ST.VXDIXG FAR OUT IN THE WATER OF LAKE HA^•^•l^'GTO^■

northern descent in altitude commences. Hidden away in a little rift
valley of its own, a longitudinal trough between the Laikipia Escarpment
and an up-reared ridge of volcanic rocks, lies little Lake Hannington, so
concealed that it was long overlooked by the great explorers, and when
found was named, perhaps not unjustly, after the misguided ]iut ]ilucky
missionary bishop who tried to enter Uganda by the forbidden route and
was slain in consequence by the uneasy ^Iwanga. It might be jiossible
for a short-sighted man to walk paralh^l with tlie west coast of Lake
Hannington and overlook the fact that he liad a long sheet of water on
his right-hand side, for the opposite Laikipia Escarpment is so lofty that

14

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

it com]ilett4v oversliadows the lake, and its Ijliie-green reflections make
the whole surface look like a distant plain covered with herbage. The
north end of Lake Hannington is only separated from the waters of
Baringo bv a marshy district, and it is quite conceivable that in seasons
of exceptional rains the waters of the two may mingle. I have even
thought that Lake Hannington may be but a cut-off loop of Baringo, a
vestige of a time wlien that lake extended much farther to the south.
According to the natives' tradition, Baringo is far less in area than it was,
owing to an increasing drought which afflicts that part of the Eift Valley.

UNDOES NKSTS, LAKK JlANM.Si.l

^Nevertheless, as regards Lake Hannington, this important fact should be
noted (it is illustrated in my photographs) — that right out in the middle
of the lake and at intervals along its shores there are the remains still
standing of a former forest. These trees appear to have been killed
partly by the saltish waters of the lake and in part by being made the
eyries of innumerable birds, such as storks, herons, and eagles. An
explanation of this might be that owing to recent volcanic action the
ground where Lake Hannington lies may have collapsed into a trough
which has been slowly filled uj) with water — water which has dissolved
this natron salt from the soil. On the other hand, so iar as native

16 THE EASTERN PROVINCE

tradition goes, Lake Hannington has always been there within the
memory of man — say for several hundred years. It is called by the
Masai " Mbatibat," and by the Kamasia " Makwaria."

On Lake Hannington it is no exaggeration to say that there must be
close upon a million flamingoes. These birds are mainly collected round
the northern end of the lake and on the submerged banks which break up
the deep blue-green of its still surface. The shores where they cluster,
and these banks in the middle of the lake where they are above the
water's edge, are dazzling white with the birds' guano. These flamingoes
breed on a flat plain of mud about a mile broad at the north end of Lake
Hannington, where their nests, in the form of little mounds of mud with
feathers plastered on the hollowed top, appear like innumerable molehills.
The birds, having hitherto been absolutel}^ unmolested by man, are quite
tame. They belong to a rosy species {Pheniconais ininor), which is slightly
smaller than the ^Mediterranean flamingo, but exquisitely beautiful in
plumage. The adult bird has a body and ueck of rosy pink, the colour of
sunset clouds. The beak is scarlet and purple ; the legs are deep rose-
pink inclining to scarlet. Lhiderneath the black-pinioned wings the larger
feathers are scarlet-crimson, while beautiful crimson crescents tip the
tertiaries and wing-coverts ou the upper surface of the wings. Apparently
the mature plumage is not reached until the birds are about three years
old. The younger flamingoes very soon attain the same size as the rosy
adults, but their plumage when they are full grown is first grey-white
and then the colour of a pale tea-rose before it attains its full sunset
glorv. On the north coast of the lake the belt of flamingoes must be
nearly a mile broad from the edge of the lake outwards. Seen
from above, this mass of birds on its shoreward side is grey-white,
then becomes white in the middle, and has a lakeward ring of the
most exquisite rose-pink, the reason being that the birds on the outer
edge of the semi-circle are the young ones, while those farthest out
into the lake are the oldest. It is not easy to make the birds take
to flight. When they do so suddenly and the shallow water is stirred,
the stench which arises is sickening. The noise of these birds can be
heard from nearly a mile distant. The kronk-krouk-kronk of the million,
mingled with liissings and squitterings and splashings and the swish-
swish-swish of those who are starting on flight, combine to make a
tumult of sound in the presence of which one has to shout to one's
companions in order to be heard. It is curious to watch the ungainly
motions of these birds when they wish to rise in the air. Their flight
has to be preceded by an absurd gallop through the mud before they
can lift themselves on their wings.

Kound about the end of Lake Baringo one enters a flat country, which

ft-

VOL. I,

18

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

in times of heavy rain can be extremely marshy. At such periods the
Rivers Tigrik and Molo unite their waters often in their lower courses
and bring about an extension of Bariiigo in the direction of Hannington.

15. ACACIA-TREES, NEAR BARINGO

The altitude of Lake Karingo is o,o25 feet, while that of Lakes Sug'ota
and Rudolf is not much over 1,200 feet; yet in descending to the level
of Baringo one has come upon a hot, harsh-looking country, not greatly
superior to the dreary regions in the Siik and Turkana countries. Along
the courses of permanent rivers there are splendid acacia-trees, wild date
palms, and a certain amount of pleasing vegetation. But far away from
permanent water the vegetation tends to be scrubby, thorny, and sparse.
But there is a certain largeness in the landscape, and other elements lend
themselves to the picturesque, notably the settlements of the Enjamusi
agricultural Masai. This is the celebrated country of " Njemps '' first
discovered by Joseph Thomson, to which so many caravans have resorted,
for rest amongst the friendly folk and the purchase of food, the Enjamusi
— or, as they call themselves, " Nyarnsi " — ^Masai being great cultivators.
Their two great towns lie respectively on the banks of the Lower Molo

AND THE RUDOLP BASIN

19

(here called Xyuki;i and Tigvik Rivers. They are surrounded by belts of
tall trees, mainly acacias, some of which must be considerably over a
hundred feet in height, with green boughs and trunks and ever-present
flaky films of pinnated foliage. In the rainy time of the year these trees
are loaded with tiny golden balls of flowers, like tassels of floss silk, which
exhale a most delicious perfume of honey. In the plains between the
villages Grevy's zebra and a few oryx antelopes scamper about, while
golden and black-backed jackals hunt for small prey in broad daylight
with a constant whimpering. Enormous baboons sit in the brandies of
the huge trees, ready to rifle the native crops at the least lack of vigilance
on the part of the boy guardians. Large herds of cattle and troops of
isabella-coloured donkeys, with broad black shoulder-stripes, go out in the
morning to graze, and return through a faint cloud of dust, which is
turned golden bv the setting sun in the mellow evening, the cattle
lowing and occasionally fighting, the asses kicking, plunging, and biting
one another. After sunset, as the dusk rapidly thickens into night, forms
like misshapen, ghostly wolves will come from no one knows where, and
trot about the waste outside the village trees. They are the spotted
hya?nas, tolerated by the Masai because they are the living sepulchres

lll-WEST COKNEK OF JiAKIX(;0

of their dead relations. When man, woman, or child dies amongst the
Masai, agricultural or pastoral, the corpse is placed in the outskirts of the
settlement for the liyttnas to devour at nights. The cry of the hy*na is

20 THE EASTERN PROVINCE

not a laugh, as people make out, hut a long-drawn falsetto wail ending in
a whoop. It must he expressed hv this notation : —

U - u - u - AVI !

It sounds exactly what one might imagine to he the mocking crv of a
ghoul; and l)ut for the fact that we now find that the ghoul myth has
a very solid human origin (since there are depraved people all over Africa
at the present day who have a mania for eating corpse-flesh,* and this
trait may also have crop})ed out in pre-Muhammadan days in Arabia and
Persia), one might very well imagine that the idea of the ghoul arose from
the hyaena, as that of the harpy probably did from the vulture.

The hills of the termites, or " white ants," are not only familiar in their
general outline to all who have visited tropical Africa, but even to the
untravelled reader of books describing African exploration. Therefore even
the uninitiated would be struck by the extraordinary height and formation
of the termite hills round about the Baringo District. This peculiar
shape of ant-hill commences as soon as one has descended from the upper
part of the Kift Valley to the level of Lake Baringo, and I believe
continues northwards towards Abyssinia.

Lake Baringo has a fine clump of mountains — the Karosi Hills — at its
north end, otherwise it is not a very picturesque lake. On the eastern
banks are hills and mountains which rise in terraces to the edge of the
Laikipia Escarpment. North of Baringo the country becomes increasingly
arid, though it rather inclines to rise in ahitude for some distance along
the Eift Valley. There is, however, cpiite a sudden drop in level towards
Lake Sugota, which lies in a hole, and is half mud-marsh and half lake ; f
and also in the valley of the Piver Kerio, which for a long distance up
its course lies not very high above the level of Lake Pudolf (1,250 feet).
All the country bordering Lake Pudolf is poor in vegetation, while in
parts there are absolute sandy deserts or plains of loose gravel without
vegetation. Except in the vicinity of permanent watercourses, the scrub
is mainly composed of that intolerable " wait-a-bit '' thorn, an abominable
species of acacia which in very dry regions remains for years without
leaves until saluted by the rain. Salt lagoons (covered with waterfowl),
salt lakelets, and the dried-up beds of pools, white with natron salt,

* See Chapter XVI.

t Sometimes, indeed, the natives report that Lake Sugota is quite dry. It was,
however, a large sheet of Avater when seen by officers on my staff in the early spring
of 1901. There is said to be an active volcano near the north end of Sugota.

AND THE RUDOLF BASIN

21

are constant features along the coast of Lake Kndolf. Occasionally, where
streams from the western hill ranges in the Tnrkana, Karamojo, and Sfik
countries bring down running water to the lake, wild date palms and
the branching Hyphcene thebaica, or Dfim palm, may be seen with an
occasional baobab, fig-tree, or green-barked acacia (^4. vervufjosa). On the
rising ground to the west of the lake there is fairly good grazing, except
after periods of long drought. Along the valleys of great rivers like
the Turkwel, which seldom wholly dry up in their lower courses, there
are forests of the tall acacia just mentioned (see illustration, p. 18). The

4^

17. STRANGE TERMITE (" AXT ") HII.LS FOUND THROUGHOUT THE BARINGO AN1> RUDOLF REGIONS

onlv certain feeder of Eudolf is the mighty Eiver Omo, which flows all
the wav from Southern Abyssinia into the north end of this lake. Along
the lower course of the Omo the vegetation is of a tropical luxuriance, and
in places there are huge stretches of papyrus swamp. With this exception
the whole of the Kudolf region is almost as unprepossessing as the Sahara
Desert. In the Turkana country, west of Lake Kudolf. the leading
features may be summed up in these jwords : stony hills and thorny bush :
poor grazing. Nevertheless, this land of scrub, short trees, ^' wait-a-bit," and
Acacia fistula forests is, by reason of the scarcity of moisture and conscpient
absence of mosquitoes, healthy, and it is the home of the finest Negro

22

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

race of the Protectorate, wliom tlie late Captain Wellby described as a race
of giants. The Tnrkana are hardly distinguishable in appearance from the
^^uk, and the language thev speak is very nearly the same. Both 8uk and
Turkana, as will be seen in the chapters dealing with this subject, are
related to the Masai physically and by language.

In spite of the sterile nature of the country and the brackish water of
the lake, this is (or rather was) a sportsman's paradise; but three things
seem of late to have diminished the game in the Rudolf Province, one
being the continued and appalling drought which is a})parently killing

l8. LAKE I5AKINGO, FROM THE WESTERN SHORE

all the vegetation not growing near to permanent watercourses ; the second,
the reckless attacks on elephants and rhinoceroses made by Swahili
caravans coming from Mombasa, sometimes under the leadership of Goanese
Indians; and thirdly, the ravages of the Abyssinians from the north. The
lake seems to swarm with fish, and there are many hippopotamuses and
crocodiles. The elephants of the Rudolf region are tierce, but carry mag-
nificent tusks. This is (or was) a country where, coming from the Zanzibar
coast or from South Africa, you first touched the influence of Arabia, for
the nomad tribes of this region keep large numbers of camels, which were
originally obtained from Southern Abyssinia or Somaliland. Others, again,

AND THE RUDOLF BASIN 23

are in possessit)ii uf j)onies, descended from the Somali or Gala .stock. But
drought and the Abyssinians between them appear to have depopulated
nearlv all the east coast of Kudolf, and even the camels have died of
the drought, and strew the country with their whitened bones. The
late Captain Wellby, wlio visited these regions two years ago, wrote to
me that the aspect of much of the east coast of ]>ake Kudolf was the
most desolate he could conceive, like a picture of a dead world, strewn
with the whitened bones of huge mammals and of men, no vegetation to
be seen within reach of the eye — nothing but salt water and sun-1)aked
rocks, themselves perhaps congealed lava. At the north end of Rudolf
owing to the abundant waters of the Omo and the Xakua, things bear a
more cheerful aspect, or would do so if the Abyssinian raids could be
restrained. Here, with proper protection from Ethiopian ravages, a large
population might grow up. This district probably will be before long
much visited by Europeans, owing to the rumours of alluvial gold in the
mountains to the north-west of the Nakua Kiver.

The country along the Upper Turkwel and Wei-wei Elvers, and also
on the Kerio Kiver before it reaches the hot lowlands, may be styled the
Suk country in })articuh\r, though the Suk tribes stretch thence to Lake
Baringo. All these lands are fairly well watered by the tumultuous streams
which descend from the northern slopes of the Elgeyo and Kamasia
Escarpments, and from that tumbled mass of strangely shaped peaks and
ridges called the Siik .Mountains. Portions of this country are highly
cultivated, and are resorted to by trading caravans for supplies of food.
There is a good deal of wood, but it contains as a rule only those lofty
acacias and papilionaceous trees and shrubs, fig-trees, and euphorbias
characteristic of the average East African vegetation. Here and there is
a kigelia, with its })endulous, red-gieen flowers and, more commonly seen
in their place, the enormous smooth grey fruit, in shape exactly like the
weight of a hall clock. The 8uk ^Mountains are so fantastic in outline,
with such overhanging crags, precipices, notches, dijis, and tilts (not to
speak of the numberless hills set like isolated pyramids in the plain, and
often crested with a bouquet of trees), that the scenery is very picturesque.
Moveover, these mountains give rise to innumerable streams, the waters of
which serv^e to irrigate the hot plains at their base.

As on our imaginary tour we are advancing southwards again, we may
find ourselves climbing up through the extremely broken ground of the
Siik country on to the northern edge of that great ])lateau which, to avoid
a multiplicity of names, it is preferable to call "Xandi." We should
be attacking it at the edge of the Elgeyo Escarpment and near the flanks
of a lofty ridge known as Chibcharafian— perhaps literally "attacking
it," if we were compelled at this moment to be there in the body and

24

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

obliged at all costs to gain the suiniiiit of these forested heights; for the
northern and western slopes of the Elgeyo Escarpment are inhal)ited by
the fierce Japtuleil, the most northerly branch of that turbulent Nandi
race which has given its name to this plateau. They are almost the only
people in these regions at tlie present day actively hostile to Europeans.

The scenery of the Elgeyo Eift Valley is very grand, especially when
seen from above. I have stood at one point near the north-western edge
of the Elgeyo Escarpment and looked down a sheer 5,000 feet on to a
gleaming river which threaded its way through a lake and numerous pools.

19. JUXIPER-TKEES, NANDI PLATEAU

In the upper part of the Elgeyo Valley and on the slopes of Chibcharanan
there is abundant forest, which, according to altitude, is of a tropical or of
an Abyssinian or South African character. Here, coming from the north,
begin those splendid forests of conifers (two species of juniper and a vew)
so characteristic of the ^>andi Plateau. Away to the west of Chibcharaiian
and Elgeyo, towards the great blue mass of Elgon, the country is of noble
appearance : splendid rolling downs of short rich grass, patches of woodland,
acacia forests, and vegetation of more trojjical appearance along the valleys
of the watercourses. This (jwas' Xgishu Plateau* slopes down gradually

* So called from the Gwas' Ngishu Masai who once inhabited it.

o

AND THE RUDOLP BASIN

21

ill the north to the Suk or Klkakisera coiintry, wliile southwards it rises
in gentle unduhations to heights of 7,()0() and 8,000 feet, joining on thus
to the special country of the Nandi. For the most part the downs, over
which one's gaze can stretch for fifty or sixty miles as they gently slope
towards the north or towards the Victoria Nyanza, are clothed with soft,
silky grass, which takes a pale pink, mauve, grey, or russet sheen as the
wind bends the flowering stems before it.

Over this Gwas' Ngishu Plateau (where the traveller must beware of
following any presumed native path, since it is only a cunning device

UASS OX THE GWAS NGISHU rLATEAC

leading up to a game-trap, an oblong pitfall hidden with sticks and cut grass)
roam countless wild animals at the present day — and I earnestly pray may
continue to roam there, completely protected from the British sportsman
and his oft-times insensate ravages. (The nomad natives who make these
game-pits secure too small a proportion of the antelopes to be taken into
much account.) Here may be seen large herds of giraffes as one might
see cattle peacefully standing about in an English park. These giraffes are
the finest development we yet know of the northern form ; of that species of
giraffe which extends all over North Central Africa from east to west, with
the exception of l>omalilaud, where a peculiarly coloured species is developed.

26 THE EASTERN PROVINCE

The male of this particular variety found on the Gwas' Ngishu Plateau
develops an extra pair of liorn-bosses on the base of the skull. In colour
the adult males and females become so dark on the upper part of the
body that, seen from a distance, they seem to be black or purple with
white bellies, and are therefore most striking objects, especially when they
stand, as they often do, on the tops of low ant-hills, from which they survey
with their keen sight all the surrounding country. The purplish look is
given by the reddish-brown hairs which mingle with the black on the large
spots. When a girati'e is thus poised on a mound like a sentinel, he is
absolutely rigid, and moves his head so little that the appearance of
immobility, coupled with the extraordinary shape — the short body and the
enormously long tapering neck — give the traveller the fixed impression that
he is lookino- at an unbranched tree-trunk which has been blasted bv
lightning or a forest fire.

But giraffes are not the only large game on these glorious downs.
Elephants may be seen in great herds close by, but they affect rather
more the scattered forest than the open plains. Where you see the
giraffes you see also numerous rhinos in couples, male and female, or a
female alone with her snub-nosed calf. The rhino looks a purple-black or
a whitish grey as he moves through the long grass, according as the light
strikes him. It is a glorious sight, say an hour after the sun has risen
and the shadows are beginning to shorten, to traverse this grass country
and see this zoological gardens turned loose. Herds of zebras and Jackson's
hartebeest mingle together, and in face of the sunlight become a changing
procession of silver and gold, the sleek coats of the zebras in the level
sunlight mingling their black stripes and snowy intervals into a uniform
sih^er-grey, whilst the coats of the hartebeests are simiply red-gold. Dotted
about on the outskirts of this throng are jet-black cock ostriches with white
wings, a white bob-tail, and long pink necks. I\ed and silver jackals slink
and snap ; grotesque wart-hogs of a dirty grey, with whitish bristles and
erect tails terminating in a drooping tassel, scurry before the traveller
till they can bolt into some burrow of the ant bear. Males of the noble
waterbuck, strangely like the English red deer, appear at a distance,
browsing with their hornless, doe-like females, or gazing at the approaching
traveller with head erect and the maned neck and splendid carriage of
Landseer's stags. Grey-yellow reedbuck bend their lissom bodies into
such a bounding gallop that the spine seems to become concave as the
animal's rear is flung high into the air. The dainty Damaliscvs. or
sable antelope, with a coat of red, mauve, black, and yellow satin bordered
with cream colour, stands at gaze, his ccat like watered silk as the
sunlight follows the wavy growth of the glistening hair. Once black
buffalo would have borne a part in this assemblage, but now, alas ! they

Jackson's llARiKBEiisr.

AND THE RUDOLF BASIN

27

have all been destroyed by the riiideri)esr. The eland still lingers in this
region, hut seems to prefer the scattered woodland to the open plains.
Lions and leopards may lioth be seen frequently in broad dayli<Tht,
hanging about these herds of game, though apparently causing no dismay
to the browsing antelopes.

21. CUTTINc; UP G.VMi;, G\V.\r*' .NGIISHL PLATtAL

Still continuing our journey southwards, in tins purview we shall, as
we ascend the sloping plateau, arrive at altitudes of 8,000, 9,000, and
10,000 feet, where thick forests of conifers and trees characteristic of
South Africa and of Ahvssinia prevail. Above this region dense brakes
of bamboo crown all lofty elevations from 9.000 to 11,000 feet. In
swampy spots at these great altitudes may be observed growing lobelias

28

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

(which throw u[) tall spikes of flowers hidden under green bracts) and
" golden rods " of scarlet and yellow.

The scenery on the Nandi Plateau between 7,000 and 10,000 feet in
altitude reminds the homesick official and traveller over and over again
of England, of Wales, of Scotland. Here are the swelling green downs
crested with beautiful woodland, reminding one of Sussex or Surrey.
Here is a roaring Scotch burn in full spate, the colour of foaming beer,
tearing down over grey boulders through a forest of gaunt junipers, which
at a little distance might well be pines or firs growing on Scotch

22. ox THE NAXDI PLATEAU, LOOKING TOWARDS LUMBWA

mountains. Here you may see the Brecknock Beacons, scenery more
mountainous than the Sussex downs, yet with the rich woods of
Surrey, and the rocks of Wales. The natural meadows are full of
blue forget-me-nots or of pink or white clover. In the ferny hollows
on the edges of the woodland are innumerable violets (scentless, alas !),
buttercups, daisies, and many other English-looking flowers and ferns
growing amid the short grass. There is also a very pretty little dwarf
iris, which, although not English, is still very European. In marshy
spots on the higher uplands grows the " golden rod " of South Africa — the
" red-hot poker " of old-fashioned gardens. Here there may be seen in

23. BAMBOO FOKEST BEHl.NU ELDAMA RAVINE

30

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

large clunips the extra-
ordinary lobelias, the
tlower columns of which
grow to a height of
tifteen feet and more.
This beautiful land has
not in it a single ugly or
unfriendly spot. Plvery-
where the landscape is
gracious and pleasing in
a quiet, homely way,
otiering few violent forms
or startling effects. It
is thus singularly home-
like, and as it is almost
entirely without native
inhabitants, it seems to
be awaiting the advent
of another race which
should make it a won-
derland of wealth and
comfort, a little England,
lialf a Scotland, or a large
Wales, lying exactly
under the equator at an
average altitude of 4,000
feet above the Victoria Nyanza, of whose silvery'gulfs and ghostly mountain
coast-line glimpses at' a distance of ninety miles may be caught occasion-
ally from some breezy lieight or through the interstices of woods which
themselves might be in Surrey. These views of a vast but distant
seascape, which, owing to the height of the horizon, seem to appear in
the sky, give that occasional touch of weirdness to the Nandi landscapes
which would be the case in England or Scotland, if amid familiar land-
scapes we suddenly saw limned in grey or silver in the lower sky the
features of a foreign land. In the direction of the Victoria Nyanza, the
plateau sometimes crumbles away into broadening river valleys, through
which one descends rapidly to tropical regions.

The forests which clothe the eastern descent of the Nandi Plateau
above the station called Eldama Eavine, and which stretch (with intervals)
between the Eldama Kavine and the Upper Molo Kiver, besides similar
forests skirting the lower parts of the same plateau almost as far south as
the German frontier, are extremely dense, full of magnificent timber,

24. BAMBOO FOREST, NAXDI KOAll, 9,000 FEET.

AND THE RUDOLF BASIN

31

with a mingling of conifers, yews, witc-h-hazels, and some of the timher
and vegetation more characteristic of equatorial regions — a coml)ination,
in short, of tlie tro])ical forest with the temperate. In these extremely
dense woods, which it is impossible for a Euroijean to ])enetrate without
a pioneering party to cut a way, but which are nevertheless the
hunting-ground of the nomad Andorolx), the two most ciiaracteristie
creatures are the colobus monkey and a large species of trao-elaphus
antelope, which resembles in some res[)ects the nyala of South Africa,
and in others the broad-horned tragelaph of the Gaboon. The presence
of this tragelaphus is often made known by its peculiar bark, but,
although well known to the Andorobo, it has very seldom been seen by
Europeans. But the colobus monkey (which is found throughout the
Uganda Protectorate and much else of tropical Africa, wherever the forest
is dense enough, no matter whether it be cold of climate or always hot)
is a far more common sight. The Andorobo who lurk in these forests
live mainly on the tlesh of this creature, which they shoot from below
with poisoned arrows. Having satisfied tlieir hunger on its flesh, they
sell the skin with its long, silky,
black and white hair, and its
tail with the immense silky
plume at the end, to the Masai
or other warlike races, who make
it into head-dresses or capes ;
or else to the European or
Swahili trader. As the Andorol>o
are rapidly bringing the ex-
termination of the colobus within
view, its destruction and the
sale of its skin are now pro-
hibited, though it will lie a long
time before the prohibition is
understood and obeyed by these
wild men of the woods.

The Eldama Kavine station
merits a few words of de-
scription. It is situated at an
altitude of about 7,400 feet, on
the broken slopes of the Nandi
Plateau, facing in one direction
the wooded Kamasia Hills, look-
ing towards the corner of Lake
Baringo in another, and gazing

32

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

eastwards over a magnificent
landscape — the breadth of the
Kift Valley and the opposite
escarpment of Laikipia. It is
a place with an almost English
climate, and gardens where
English flow'ers bloom. Some-
how every one who has come
to it has fallen in love with it
and wished to remain there. It
has, however, bnt an indifferent
water supply (should it become
a large city), and lies twenty
miles now from the finished
railway line. But for these two
disadvantages, it has suggested
itself to Administrator after
Administrator, traveller after
traveller, as tiie capital of a
United East Africa. I imagine,
however, that this desired capital
will eventually be built on the
railway, perhaps twenty-five to
thirty miles south of the Kaviue.
Yet the Eavine station will
always remain a useful place
from which to control the
thickly populated Kamasia
country and the regions about
Lake Baringo.
The Nandi Plateau on the western side is eaten down at its middle
into a wasp waist by the Nyando Valley. This valley has been selected
as the easiest and shortest route for the Uganda Eailway to follow from
Lake Nakuro, up and over the Nandi Plateau, and down by a fairly
gentle descent to Kavirondo Bay on the Victoria Nyanza. The valley
and its branch valleys are formed by powerful streams rising in the Nandi
and Lumbwa countries and uniting for the most part to form the Eiver
Nyando, which enters the easternmost prolongation of the long gulf of
Kavirondo Bay. As the railway descends from its highest point of 8,300
feet on the flanks of Mount Londiani — descending in innumerable curves
and twists to obtain a reasonable gradient — the traveller will quit the
forests of junipers and yews, and enter that belt of umbrella-topped

26. A CASCADE AT THE RAVINE STATION

AND THE RUDOLF BASIN

33

iicacias ?o cliiii-aeteri.stic of" Afi-ican iiiountain.s at about 0,000 feet in
altitude. Below these he will skirt grassy downs, and will notice in the
ravines and stream valleys the emerald-green ornamental foliage of the
wild banana and the graceful fronds of the wild date palm. Then, at a
lower descent still, comes downright tro})ical vegetation where the ground
is suitable. If he can quit the railway, and wander away from the line
to the l)lack ]>atches of forest about the streams, he would enter many a
lovely bower, wlierein dense foliage overhead i)roduces shade that appears
black in compaiison with the dazzling sunlight outside. As the valley

27. NEAR THE MAU SUMMIT, UGANDA RAILWAY

liroadens and broadens, and reaches down almost to the level of the
Victoria Nyanza, there are sluggish, muddy rivers flowing through a
<ountry that easily degenerates into marsh. Here you reach the first
ha])itations of native man — or did before the construction of the Uganda
l-vailway revolutionised all this part of Africa. Until within three years
ago there were no resident settled natives dwelling along this line of
route, no natives from whom food could be purchased between Kikuyu,
-200 miles away to the east, and these first outlying villages of the coast
population round the Victoria Nyanza.

The people inhaliiting these settlements will be probably for a year or
VOL. I. 3

84

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

so still a source of f/or/uenard amusement to the excursionists whom the
Uganda Kailwav will bring from the east coast of Africa to the Victoria
Nyanza; for they will see before them coal-black, handsomely formed
negroes and negresses without a shred of clothing, though with many
adornments in tlie w'ay of hippopotamus teeth, bead necklaces, ear-rings,
and leglets of brass. As the figures thus exhibited are usually models for
a sculptor, this nudity is blameless and not to be discouraged ; moreover,
it characterises the most moral people in the Uganda Protectorate. This

I.I i.\ I MAM, .NAN 1 II rl.A'l i:aL I

ebon statuary lives in pretty little villages, which are clusters of straw-
huts (glistening gold in the sun's rays), encircled with fences of aloes,
w^iicli have red, green, and white mottled leaves, and beautiful column*
and clusters of coral-red stalks and flowers. There are a few shady trees,
that from their appearance might very well be elms (but are not), and
some extraordinary euphorbias, which grow upright with tlie trunk of a
respectable tree, and burst into uncounted sickly green spidery branches.
Herds of parti-coloured goats and sheep, and cattle that are black and

AND THE RUDOLP BASIX

35

white and fawn colour, diversifv flicse surroundings with tlieir abrupt
patches of light and colour.

These few notes describe the chief cliaracteristics of the Kavirondo

29. "many a lovely howkh '

villages to be seen round about Kitoto's (as the principal chief is called),
on the Rivers Oroha and Kivosi ; but they are also characteristic of the
settlements of those Kavirondo who apeak a Nilotic and not a Bantu
language.

This particular tribe of the Ja-luo or Nyifwa, whose tongue connects

36

THE EASTERN PROYIXCE

them closely witli the Acholi peo])le of the Central Province, are a great
feature of the northern coast of Kavirondo Bay, and especially the newlv
sprung up Government station of Kisumu, which is close to Port Florence
at the terminus of the Uganda Pailway. They are very picturesque as
they strut ahout the streets in their innocent nudity, decked with barbaric
ornaments. The men wear not one ear-ring, but fifteen ! Holes are
pierced all round the outer edge of the ear, and in these are inserted

30. WILD BANANAS (MrS.I I-XSHTE

brass fillets, like melon seeds in shape, to which are attached coarse blue
beads of large size and dull appearance. These beads the knowing tourist
should collect whilst they can be purchased, as they are of mysterious
origin and great interest. They are not, as he might imagine at first
sight, of European manufacture, but have apparently reached this part of
the world from Nubia in some very ancient trading intercourse between
JEgypt and these countries of the Upper Nile.

AND THE RUDOLF BASIX

37

The sceneiv round Kisiiniu and Port Florence is not particularlv
prepossessing. Indeed, tlic touvi>t"s tii>t introduction to the A'ictoria
Nvanza at this p'oint will occasion hini much disappointment. All he
will see before him is Kavirondo IJay or Gulf, that lengtli}' northern
prolongation of the Victoria Nyanza. This is a huge backwater of the
lake, where the water stagnates and entirely loses the blue limpidity
ordinarily characteristic of the Victoria Nyanza. It has a dirty green or
even a dirty brown look. Seen from a di>tance when ruffled bv the wind,
it so closely resembles a red ploughed field that it is difficult to believe
you are looking on a sheet of water. The ground is either a rank marsh
(where the onlv beautiful feature are the numerous sacred ibises of

31. ox KAVIRONDO ISAV, VKTOHIA NYANZA

inky black and snowy white) or harsh rock. There are very few trees,
and the principal object in all these landscapes is the candelabra euphorbia.
If the reader (who will fre(juently see this form of vegetation appearing
and reappearing in my photographs) wishes to realise what this strange
tree looks like, let him imagine a gigantic cabbage or cauliflower which
has run to stalk, only to countless stalks, many-jointed, and of gouty
thickness. They curve upwards from the head of the trunk something
like the arms of a candelabra. The stem which supports this heavy mass
of succulent vegetation is short, irregular in its swollen girth, and generally
of a scaly grev. The huge ])lant is usually loosely and insufficiently
rooted in the soil, for it frequently topples over with its own weight in a

38

THE EASTERN PROVINCE

high wind, being extremely britth\ Therefore it is justly considered
very dangerous by the natives to rest under the shade of a euphorbia.
The juice is extremely poisonous, while at the very best the tree can only
be called " quaint." It scarcely ever bears any leaves, but its dark green
stalks are jointed and recurved like a scorpion's tail. When leaflets do
appear, thev are simple, minute, and pale green. Tiny yellowish sessile
flowers break out during the rainy season, like little scabs of a disease,
along the angular edges of the expanded stalks.

The countries borderinsf the east and north-east coasts of the Victoria

IX THE NANDI FOREST

Xyanza are much bke this description of Kavirondo Eay. though Ugaya,
to the south of that bay, has more woodland tlian tlie opposite peninsula
of Uyoma, which is remarkably arid, rocky, and " euphorbiaceous." The
two islands of Lusinga and Mfwanganu I'ise high, and have a ceitain
amount of forest. The valleys between the mountain ridges that run
southwards from Ka\'irondo Bay towards German territory are densely
populated and highly cultivated by stalwart races of naked negroes, most
of whom belong to the Bantu family as regards their languages, wliile
others — the Lumbwa — are of the Nandi stock, and others, again, are related
to the Ja-luo or Nilotic Kavirondo. This country is remarkably full of

IX THE NANDl FOUEST

10 THE EASI^ERN PKOVINCE

food products, and the natives seem to be good agriculturists. It is fertile,
and between it and the Kift A^alley enormous trackless forests stretch
over the rising upland.

Forest of an extravagantly tropical character, an almost exact repetition
of the Congo Forest, clothes the crumbling edge of the Nandi Plateau
to the north-west, where it descends to the valley of the Nzoia and the
rich lands of Kabaras or Bantu Kavirondo. I have rarely seen finer
developments of forest in Africa than here — perhaps only in one or two
spots of Uganda, in the Congo Forest, and in the Cameroons.

Even as I write this brief description of what was a few months ago
Uganda's Eastern Province,* I realise the clianges which are taking
place day by day in its aspect, owing to tlie completion of this Uganda
Railway, which will prove to be, I think, one of the mightiest factors
yet introduced into Central Africa for the transformation of a land of
complete barbarism to one at any rate attaining to the civilisation of
settled India. I have had the pri\ilege of seeing this country just in
time — ^just before the advent of the railway changed the Eift Valley, the
Nandi Plateau, the ]Masai countries, from the condition at which they were
at the time of Joseph Thomson (1882) to one which day by day becomes
increasingly different. On grassy wastes where no human being but a
slinking Andorobo or a few ]Masai warriors met the eye ; where grazed
Grant's gazelle, with his magnificent horns, and the smaller but more
gaily coloured Gazella thomsoni ; where liartebeests moved in thousands,
zebras in hundreds, ostriches in dozens, and rhinoceroses in couples ;
where, in fact, everything lay under the condition of Britain some 200,000
years ago ; not only do trains puff to and fro (the zebras and antelopes
are still there, accepting the locomotive like a friend, since it drives
away the lions and ensures the respect of the Game Laws), but alongside
the railway are springing up uncounted hideous habitations of corrugated
iron and towns of tents and straw huts.

The solitude of the Pift Valley has gone. Thousands of bearded Indians,
hundreds of Europeans and Eurasians, Negroes of every African type (from
the handsome i^omali to the ugly Mudigo), Arabs and Persians trudge to
and fro on foot, ride donkeys, mules, and horses, pack the carriages like
herrings, set u}) booths, and diverge far and wide a hundred miles in
each direction from the railway line, trafficking with shy and astonished
natives, who had scarcely realised the existence of a world outside their
own jungle, for the beef, mutton, fowls, eggs, and vegetable food-stuffs
which are to assist in feeding this invasion. P'ar away on Baringo natives
are extending their irrigation schemes and planting twice as much as
they planted before, knowing that there is a market where their spare food

* This area has recently been transferred to the Administration of East Africa.

^tv•

^

Grants Gazkli.e.

AND THE RUDOLF BASTX

41

can be exchanged for rupees. Farther nurtli >tiU. in the Sfik countries,
Englishmen, Scotclmien, (ioanese, Arabs, Swaliibs, and Bahichis are pushing
into deserts to buy donkeys, are trading for ivory wliich the railway will

34. "the kavirondo before they wore trousers"

carry to the coast at a rate less than the cheapest porter caravan. The
Nyando Valley, for years without human inhabitants other than the shift-
less Andorobo. is filling up with Masai, Swahili, and Nandi immigrants;
while for twenty miles at a stretch on the beautiful heights and happy

42 THE EASTERN PROVINCE

valleyf> of ^lau you are in tlie presence of an nnintentioned Euro}iean
colony, some of which no doulit will melt away with the completion of
the railway, but much of which must be the nucleus of the great white
colony one may hope to see established on the only land really fitted for its
development in Equatorial Africa. The Kavirondo, alas! are wearing trousers
and "sweaters"; the sacred iliises have left Kisumu, for its swamps are
drained. Piers and wharves, hotels and residences in corrugated iron, are
springing up at Port Florence, destined, no doubt, to be a great emporium
of trade on the Victoria Nyanza. The dirty brown waters of Ka\'irondo
Bay, a gulf of the great lake that was only pro[)erly' mapped last year,
are now daily navigated by sailing boats and steamers. Before long this
chapter on the Ea>tern Province will only possess the value of describing
an aspect which in many details has ceased for ever to exist.

CHAPTEll IT

THE CENTRAL FBOTIXCE AXJ) TILE JTCTOBIA

NYANZA

THE Ontral Province contains the Elgon, Karainojo, Lohor, IJukedi,
and Busoga Districts.

The P^lgon District includes the northern half of the Kavirondo
country. It is difficult to locate this word "Kavirondo." It is prohahly
of Bantu origin, but although it is recognised to some extent liy the
natives as a word indicating tlie north-east coast-lands of the A'ictoria
Nyanza, it is nowhere actually a})plied ]\v the natives to them>elves; while
the people loosely stvled *■' Kavirondo " by the first travellers in these
regions, though they ])0ssess in common a liking for complete nudity in
both sexes, and a certain general resemblance in physique* and in manners
and customs, yet are divided sharply into two sections by the languages
which they speak. The peoj)le of Northern Kavirondo use closely related
dialects of the Bantu family ; those of Southern Kavirondo (already
alluded to as the Ja-luo in the preceding chapter) speak a dialect of the
Acholi language of the Upper Nile. The word " Kavirondo " was not originally
known to the Baganda before recent years; they spoke of this district, in
common with other parts of the Central Province where the people wear
no clothes, as " Bukedi " ("The Laud of Nakedness ") or " Bug ay a." The
term " Kavirondo " will probably be always perpetuated now as the most
convenient general name for all those natives speaking Bantu dialects
west of Busoga and north of Ka\irondo Bay.

The Kavirondo country, which thus forms the southern ]iart of the
Elgon District, is an extremely fertile land, traversed by the only three
rivers which enter the northern half of the A'ictoria Nyanza, eastwards of
Western Uganda. (It must be observed as a remarkable geographical
feature that i)ractically no running stream enters the Victoria Nyanza
along the whole of its northern coast between Berkeley Bay on the north-
east and the mouth of the Katonga on the south-west. Along all this
coast the lake is bordered with liigh downs and liills. and from the back

* Dr. Hhrubsall, however, pronounces the Kavirondo divided iiliysically into
Bantu and Nilotic types.

u

TITE CENTRAL PEOYTXCE

of these, within ;i few miles of the A'ictovia Nyaiiza, the water percolates
Slowly north-west to the Nile.) Except along the broken edge of the
Nandi Escarpment, there is not much forest in Kavirondo, though those
forests which follow the western slope of the Nandi Plateau are certainly
amongst the densest and richest of the Protectorate. There is abundant
evidence to show that Kavirondo was once a forest land, but that it has
been deforested through tlie agency of man, only a few clumps of trees
beino- left standing on hilltops in connection with the worship of spirits.
Nevertheless, there is still a fringe of fine trees along every watercourse,
and tlie country is so splendidly clothed in tine grass and luxurious

35. CROSSING THE XZCUA RIVER

herbage — to sav nothing of the flourishing crops of an agricultural people —
that the forest is not any loss so far as picturesqueness is concerned.

The wliole of the Kavirondo country is mo.-t grateful to the eye. It
consists of rolling downs (though there is a little marsh in the valley of
the Xzoia) covered with the greenest of grass, and made additionally
beautiful by the blending with the green of Heecy white, shining mauve,
or pale pink, effects which are caused by the grass being in flower or
fluffy seed. It is a breezy, healthy country, at an elevation ranging
between 4,000 and 6.000 feet. The villages really consist of aggregations
of separate settlements, each belonging to a >ingle family — hay-cock huts
surrounded sometimes by a moat choked with vegetation, and always by

36. FOKE-ST ON THE SOCTH WESTERN FOOT-HILLS OF MOUNT ELGON

46

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

an immense floral hedge. This consists of the beantifnl pink Acanthus
arhoreus (see accom])anving illustration), mingled with the coral-red aloes
already described, and sometimes with the scarlet ekirikiti.* There is
a great deal of the spider}^ green euphorbia in these hedges. The sleek.

27. VEGETATION, 6,000 FEET, .MOUNT ELGON

humped cattle, often grey or white in colour, the parti-coloured goats
and the brown sheep, the numerous fowls of black, white, piebald, and
gamecock colour, diversify these charming agricultural landscajjes. Attached

* Erijthrimi tomentosa. Tills most characteristic tree is also illustrated in the
" end paper " of the volumes.

Acanthus ARhoRhUS.

AND THE A'lCTORTA XYANZA

47

to every little settlement is a Imge pole like a l)encling flagstaff, on which
are hung a festoon of little cages containing quails. 'J'hese cages are
made of plaited grass, and the quail within acts as a decoy, attracting
other quails to the S})ace l)elow the cages, where snares are laid for their
entra})nient. The cpiails are required solelv for eating, not for sport
(quail-tight ing), as in India.

38. LARUE WHITE BALSAM OX MOCXT ELGON

Amongst the Kavirondo hoth sexes work in the fields, and in a state
of complete nudity, a condition which, as I remarked before, may be
excused on account of the generally fine figures of glistening black which
they possess.

Where the land is not actually under cultivation in Kavirondo, the
prairies are gorgeous with wild-fiowers at almost all times of the year.

THE CEXTKAL PliOVrXCE 51

Prominent amongst these are tlic sunflowers (Coreopsis), which cause certain
hillsides to blaze with yellow.

North of the Nzoia (or Nzeia) Kiver the Kavirondo villages assume a
different appearance right up the southern slopes of Elgon into a countrv
inhabited bv a branch of the Nandi stock. In place of the flowering
hedge of luxuriant vegetation, there is a deep moat surmounted bv a clay
wall which encircles the village, and this clay wall is rudely arched in the
gateway. The village itself resembles more in appearance those of the
INIuhammadan Sudan, especially in the direction of Hausaland.

The southern foot-hills of Blount Elgon contain rich forest in the

42. WALL OF CAVE-HOUSE

river valleys, a forest of a tropical character in spite of the altitude,
which may reach to over 6,000 feet. Notable especially are the draca?nas
(an enormous tree-lily, the foliage of which looks like a bundle of sharp
green weapons arranged as a trophy) and the albizzias. The albizzia is
related to the acacia, and is a very lolty tree witli pinnated foliage in dense
masses, exactly like dark green velvet, and with an inflorescence on its
upper surface greenish gold in colour. At altitudes of 0,000 feet there is
a beautiful large white balsam growing in shady places. At 7.000 and
8,000 feet on the ridges of Elgon the ground is often covered with a wild
white pelargonium which, except for the colour, resembles exactly its near
.ally, our so-called scarlet "geranium." But the white baisam, with flowers

52

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

that are about two and a half inches long by two inches broad, of a creamy
white touched with rose colour in the centre, is one of the most beautiful
objects in the floral world of Uganda. These balsams grow luxuriantly
along the native paths encompassing the mountain, and their flowers look
like large white butterflies poised on the succulent green.

The great interest of the southern slopes of Elgon lies in the caves,
which were first discovered by Joseph Thomson. These holes or recesses,
with a ceiling which may, near the mouth of the cave, arch to a height
of something like thirty feet, are generally situated close to the base of the

43. KXTKANCE TO CAVE PAUTIALLY CLOSED WITH STICKS AND STONES

awful mountain cliffs that mark the abrupt descent of the lowest terrace
skirting the central crater wall. 1 am unable to throw much more light
on the origin of these curious recesses than the information given by their
first discoverer, Joseph Thomson, except to point out that similar caves exist
on the northern slopes of the mountain at much the same level, and also
at the base of precipitous overhanging cliffs. Very often the face of the
cliff in which the cave is situated makes an angle of 100° with the terrace
below and seems to menace an awful landslip. As these precipitous walls
of overhanging rocks are streamed over by the cascades of rivers rising
near tlie central crater, and as these cascades occur on an average every four

AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA

53

or five miles round the nioinitaiii mass at tins altitude (an average (5, 000
feet), it not infrecjuently ha})pens that the mouth of a cave exactly coincides
with the descent of a waterfall from the edge of the precipices far above,
the water thus serving as a curtain to screen the mouth of the cave from
sight when viewed in front. The native path leading to the cave will thus
take you dry-shod under a river, and when you are seated at the mouth of
a cave you may see the splendid glowing landscape of the plains through
an opal-tinted veil of water. What is the origin of these caves ? One
can state no precise opinion with our present limited information. It is

r

44. "TKK.MENDOIS BLTTKESSE.S AMj PKErlFlTors rl.lKE.S

true that these recesses at the base of the preciiiitous terraces so often
coincide with the overhanging cascade of a river that quite possibly there
may have been at one time a percolation of tlie stream from above, through
the crumbling rock, whicli hollowed out these caverns. Later on, some
cement-like material bronj^ht down bv the water from above, or some hwa
flow, may have completely closed these cracks through which the percolation
took place, with the result that the stream once burrowing through the
cave now flows in a shallow rock channel high above it, and dashes itself
in sheer falls of 100 feet or more, arching over the mouth of the cave,
and continuing its course along a less precipitous gorge below. Certainly

54

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

nearly every cave I visited seemed in this way to be at the base of a
precipice and at the head of a stream valley, and the number of caves
thus screened by a waterfall was remarkable. Joseph Thomson inclined
to the belief that the caves were the work of a vanished race, and that
they were made in the search for minerals or precious stones. Certainly
the negroes of Nandi stock now making use of these caverns have, or
their forefathers have, enlarged them here and there by ])icking at the
crumbling conglomerate with their feeble hoes and axes, and have thus
enlarged and shaped the interior of many a cavern to suit their re-
quirements.

45. ..MASABA VU.LAGE, MOUNT ELGON

I The interior of these caves is blocked up in some cases by houses very
like the dwellings of the cattle-kee}»ing Masai, made of sticks and leaves
over which a framework of cow-dung and clav has been plastered. The
ceiling is, of course, the sloi)ing roof of rock, k^ome of these dwellings
are or have been used for the housing of cattle, shee]), and goats ; others
for human beings. The floor of the caves is several feet thick in the
hardened excrement of cattle, besides refuse and rubbish thrown down by
human beings. The caves so swarm with fleas, and are so noisome from
the atrocious stench arising from this ancient manure, that any extensive
examination of them was intolerable. I should think, however, that some
person with more time and patience at his command than myself on this

46. CASCADE, "OSISOKXE"" KALLS, NOUTH KUIO.N

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

57

expedition, and who would endure for a time the attacks of the fleas,
might obtain most interesting results by excavating the floors of tliese
caverns. Native tradition never stretches very far back in these countries,
but as far as it does stretch, the people declare the caves to have been
inhabited from the earliest days of their traditions. Nowadays, owing to the
Pax Britannica, they are practically deserted. The natives told me they
would only be reoccupied either if war broke out again or if any unusual
drought occurred in the lowlands, obliging them to drive their cattle to
the mountain pastm-es.

48. C'KATER WALL OK ELGON, SEEN FROM THE WEST

In many cases the entrance to the cave has been pnrtially closed in
at tlie side by boulders piled on top of one anotlier and defended by a
palisade of sticks. Altogether these caves are so interesting that some
attempt by the local Government should be made to maintain them in
their present condition as an object-lesson showing in all probability
what the habitations of our own Cave INIeu were like in Great Britain
hundreds of thousands of years ago. In the extreme south of Tunis and
in other parts of inner North Africa there are, as we know, trilies of
cave-dwellers of Berber stock who have brought cave-dwelHng to a pitch
of something like modern civilisation and retinement. I have seen

58

THE CENTRAL PllOVINCE

" Bureau de Poste " put at the mouth of a highly developed cave-dwelliiig
occupied by a native official in the Tunisian Sahara. Cave-dwelling
in these regions has been in all probability continuous from the early
Stone Age, and has never developed in the direction of building, everything
being done by excavation, though the people inhabiting these caves are
practically white men of the Iberian stock.

The vegetation on the western flanks of Elgon is very rich, and
quite West African in character; the birds also — parrots, turacos, hornbills,
pigeons — having West African affinities. A handsome pigeon (Columba

49. EDGE OF CRATER WALL, ELGON, FROM THE EAST (OVER 13,000 FEET)

guinea), which I here illustrate, is a common object, settling in little
flocks on the native plantations of grain. The scenery on the western
side of the mountain mass is perhaps grander and more beautiful in its
detail than on the other aspects. Tremendous buttresses and precipitous
cliffs of gleaming granite or quartz or dark basalt advance from the great
crater wall into the Bukedi ] Jains. A good broad path has recently been
made all round this western face of the mountain by an enterprising
Uganda chief who was placed temporarily in charge of this district.
From this road one obtains beautiful views of gleaming lakes and green
marshes in the direction of those vast backwaters of the Victoria Nile.

V,.-

AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA

59

The native iiilial)itaiits of" ^^'est Elgon are a wild-looking and savage
race, among which some .stunted individuals recall irresistibly the facial
features of the Pygmies of the Congo Forest, whom they closely resemble
in their low stature.

The scenery up the Shiruko (Siroko) Valley is really very fine, with
the enormous precipitous ridge of ]\Iuhasa to the south and Ghonyi to
the north. The foot-hills up this Alpine valley are much cultivated by
the natives, and are glistening green with bananas. Higher up, however.

50. THE HIGHEST POINT OE THE CRATER lUM (14,200 FEET)

the immense sombre forests of junipers. Tvichodadvs, and other trees
of Abyssinian or Cape affinities begin, and clothe the ascent to the crater
wall, itself bare of trees except arboreal groundsels.

The scenery along the north face of Elgon is much the same. Below
the great wall of the crater the mountain side is increasingly furrowed as
the streams cut their valleys throusfh the densely forested slopes. Then
at 8,000 and 9,000 feet will come abrupt descents showing steps of naked
gleaming granite or quartz. These crumble away again into foot-hills of
fertile soil, which would be covered by rich tropical vegetation were not
the place of this bush and forest taken for the most part by plantations

60

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

of liaiiaiias and native cereals. The landscapes to be seen from this
northern face of Elgon are of remarkable beauty. Perched on charming
ledges of neatly cultivated ground, surrounded by the glistening thatched
houses — the roofs reaching almost down to the ground— of the Sabei tribe,
one gazes across vast green prairies and blue-green swamps to distant
lakes that are sheets of silver in the sunshine. Beyond these lakes are
mountains of splendid shape, bulks of pure pale blue, touched here and
there with faint sunlight revelations of pinkish grey and whitish emerald.

^1^^

51. THE JACKSON-GEUGK EXPEDITIOX OX THE TOP OF MOUNT ELGOX

Down this northern face of Elgon pour cascades like those which adorn
the western and southern flanks. The roar of water is seldom absent from
one's hearing. With the aid of these cascades Elgon might (in addition
to its fertile soil, paucity of native inhabitants, and absolutely healthy
climate) some day become the seat of a most powerful industrial com-
munity of Europeans, who would be able here to generate electricity
which could subserve half East Africa.

The eastern aspect of Elgon differs from the other sides of the
mountain in being much less rich in vegetation, and in having a less
abundant rainfall. There is forest in stream valleys sometimes, but more

A View North from Etr.oN, towards Karamojo

rHUNDFRsruRM SWEEPING UP.

AND THE ViCTOlliA XYAXZA

61

52. THE DKSCENT TO THE C'KNTUAL CKATEK OF ELGON (KKOM A POINT ON THE KIM ABOUT 13,500 KKKT
IN ALTITUDE). SHOWS TREE GROUNDSELS AND OTHER ALPINE VEGETATION

often the watercourses plunge down rocky gullies through a country wliich
is strewn with immense boulders and thinly covered witli coarse grass and
the usual stunted trees of the East African wilderness. It is remarkable
how very red the rocks appear on this side of the mountain, this redness
often extending high up the crater wall.

Elgon has, I believe, only been ascended to the highest point on its
crater wall by Messrs. Jackson, Gedge, and ^Martin. From the photographs
taken by Mr. Ernest Gedge on this occasion (and kindly lent to me ior
this book), one may see that the vegetation resembles closely tlie Ali)iiie
flora of Kenya, Kilimanjaro, and Euwenzori. Theie are the weird lobelias
and the giant groundsels. Snow falls on these highest points, but does
not lie long. The greatest altitude on this rim of the crater is about
14,200 feet. The crater of Elgon is crossed by a native track from north
to south, and provided the natives can arrange their journey so as not to
pass the night on these chilly altitudes, where there is no forest, they seem
to suffer little hardship on the journey.

Mounts Debasien and Kamalinga are notable objects in the Karamojo
country, at any rate as seen from the vicinity of Mount Elgon. So far
as outline goes, I think Debasien is the most beautiful mountain in
Central Africa. Its height is given on Colonel .Macdonald's map as not

62

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

exceeding 9,700 feet. This is probably correct; but as the mountain rises
sheer from a flatfish plain studded with tiny volcanic cones — a plain which
is at a general altitude of 4,000 feet — it has the appearance of attaining
to at least 10,000 or 11,000 feet at its highest point. Parts of Debasien
are richly clothed with forest, but farther to the north the rich vegetation
on tlie mountains gradually disappears, and the heights assume an arid
appearance of tumbled rocks inters[)ersed with stunted trees and tliin
grass.

Away to the east of Debasien the eye of the landscape artist notes
with delight the fantastic heights of the Siik and the Karamojo-
Mountains, some of them with crags thousands of feet in altitude,
rising perpendicular or inclined at an angle of 100", as if falling over.
On the south-east of Debasien appear those strange pyramidal hillocks
to which I have made allusion in describing the Suk countrv. I
cannot insist too mucli on the remarkably regular form of these natural
pyramids. One feels convinced again and again in regarding them that
they must be artificial mounds, like those vestiges of a lost civilisation in
North America. They are, I suppose, little more than the worn-down
fragments of a table-land, though what agency causes them to assume their

53. A DISTANT VIEW

Ji' .MOI.NT 1 lEiilAblEV (J-'KU-M NUllTJl-KA.ST ELGON), WITH SLK PYRAMIDAL
HILLS IN FOREGROUND

AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA

63

absolutely regular outline (which is that, of a funnel placed on its hroad
end and ta)iering up to a sharp apex) I cannot ouess.

The Karaniojo country has lately heen sufifering from that drought
wliich has atHicted all North-East Africa. ]>ut the rainfall of this country
ap[)ears never to be very abundant, except in the south-east, among the
Suk Mountains, ^'et there is a considerable amount of cultivation in
Southern Karaiiioju, and in tlie adjoining but little-known district of
Lobor there is a dense population and a good deal of land prochicint*-
crops of native cereals.

54. LOOKING TOWARDS THE PLAINS OF BUKEDl FHOM WESTERN SLOPES OF ELlJON

In Lobor there is a certain amount of forest along the river banks,
and the southward aspect of this country, which lies within the watershed
of the Victoria Nile, enjoys a fairly good rainfall, and is well clothed with
vegetation.

South of Lobor is the thickly ]iopulated District of Bukedi, which
consists mainly of vast plains of rich grass and huge swamps wiiich
border the rivers or which are choking up the lakes that serve as
reservoirs and backwaters for the Victoria Nile. " Bukedi " is really a
Uganda word meaning, as already related, "The Land of Naked People/'
but it has been found convenient to apply it to this particular district,
which is inhabited by the Lango and INIiro tribes, who ditfer little in
appearance and scarcely at all in language from the Acholi of the Upper
Nile. Lobor to the north is inhabited partly ]\v people of this stock and
partly by tribes speaking languages related to the .Alasai-Suk family.

64

THE CENTRAL PROA^NCE

Kukedi and Lobor probal)ly constitute at tlie present time the wildest
and least-known parts of the Uganda Protectorate. Lobor is only known
to us through the explorations of Colonel J. E. L. Macdonald's expedition,
though Bukedi is now under the administration of a Uganda chief, and
has been thoroughly subdued lately in connection with the rout and
dispersal by .Major Delme Eadcliffe of the last remnants of the Sudanese
mutineers who took refuge in this part of the Protectorate.

In the southern part of Bukedi are those extraordinary marsh-lakes
Kwania, Kamoda, and Kioga (sometimes called Choga). Lake Kioga
receives the Victoria Nile after its descent down the rapids which follow

55. "ELCiUMI PEOPLE CLUSTKIUXG OX ANT-HILLS "

the Eipon Falls. The current of the Nile forms a discernible channel
up the western part of this winding lake, though the water is often
blocked with sudd. There is a good deal of clear water in the southern
and central parts of Lake Kioga, but the banks are almost unapproachable
through the growtli of papvrus and reed jungles. On those almost-islands
of Ewiro and Ivwara, nearly enclosed by the fjords and branches and
connecting channels of these lakes, there is dry ground covered with low
scrub, and occasionally rising into isolated hillocks. The country seems
to be extremely well adapted to native agriculture, and no doubt, owing
to the presence of these swamps, is less in dread of defective rainfall than
the stony regions to the north. This condition of constant swampiness —

56. A LANE IN BI.>i>l:a

VOL. I.

66 THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

of rivers that are narrow marshes, and of lakes that may have open water
in their centre, but are belted round the sides with untraversable swamps —
appears to extend from Bukedi across the plains to the verv verge of
Elg-on's foot-hills, and thence again westwards to Murnli on the Victoria
Nile. Between Elgon and Bukedi, however, though the land is occasionally
swampy, it is excellent soil, and a good proportion of it has been put
under cultivation by the fine, tall naked tribe of the Elgumi,* a race
speaking a language closely allied to the Suk. There are a good many
ant-hills in the Elgumi country, and it is the custom of the natives when
strangers pass along the paths to cluster on these ant-hills until the little
mounds become a mass of black humanity, that stands j^erfectly immobile,
silent, neither friendly nor hostile, watching the passer-by. The men are
generally resting their hands on long wands, and are often accompanied
by prick-eared dogs of pied black and white, or black and tan and white,
that are singularly like a breed of dogs depicted on the Egyptian monuments.
The lithe, well-proportioned limbs of the tall Elgumi, coupled with their
faces that are often handsome and of regular outline, make them quite a
picturesque adjunct to the spacious landscapes of their country, with its
fertile fields, its patches of apple-green marsh, and its stretches of clear
blue water. The hills and isolated mountains dotted here and there over
the Elgumi and Bukedi countries assume quaint forms and outlines, notabl\'
that square-cut chunk, not yet placed on any map, known to the Masai as
Longelai, to the Elgumi as Namboga, and to the Kavirondo as Kangaiwa.
South of the marshy countries of Bukedi and Elgumi is the District
of Busoga, a land which has a strong resemblance in its present inhabitants
and in its formation and physical geography to the adjoining countr}^ of
Uganda. Busoga is part of the dam which shores up the northern end
of the Victoria Nyanza, through which the Nile breaks at its birth. The
northern parts of Busoga, where they verge on Lake Kioga and Lake
Mljorogoma, are below the surface of the Victoria Xyanza in altitude. The
land very gradually rises as you proceed southwards at least 1,000 feet
in average height, and is at its highest where it overlooks the shores
of the great lake. Except in the northern parts of Busoga, near the
marshes, the country is still thickly forested, and it was at one time
evidently one vast tropical forest, like portions of Uganda, Toro, and
Unyoro, and like much of Kavirondo likewise was. The traveller coming-
from the east feels, wlien he crosses the Sio Kiver and enters Busoga,
that he has reached something like West Africa at last. Banana })lantations
grow everywhere in splendid luxuriance. Whatever is not cultivated fields
is tropical foi'est of grand appearance. The grey parrot of West Africa

* Elgumi is the name given to them by the Masai. I believe they call themselves
" Wamia."

■■THE blK'lH OF TriK NILE (KIPUN FALLS)

68 THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

swarms in these woodlands, fills the air with its shriekings and whistlings,
and is a very jn-etty bit of colour — grey, white, and scarlet — as it plays
about the tree-trunks. The magnificent blue plantain-eater (Corythreola),
the violaceous plantain-eater— violet and crimson with a primrose-yellow
beak — and large hornbills with enormous white casques people these lofty
trees, from which indiarubber lianas sway like the ropes to be used in
moving stage scenerv. Except close to their sources, there are few running
rivers, the brooks soon becoming choked with water vegetation, and
degenerating into swamps, at the bottom of glades of black forest, or open
marshes. Perhaps the most charming characteristic of Busoga is its lanes.
The inhabited and settled country is traversed by these in all directions-
neat paths, broader than the average African path, running for miles in
the most delightful shade between high hedges of cultivated dracffinas
or other large-foliaged plants, or a succulent Salvia with thick broad
green leaves and bright blue flowers, under canopies of richly foliaged
trees, many of them celebrated for their brilliant flowers, like the lovely
ekirikiti (Erythrina) — with beau-blossoms, as it were cut out of scarlet
velvet — or the magnificent Spathodea, whose flowers are the shape and
almost the size of Koman lamps and a vivid scarlet, so that the tree
looks as though it had l)een hung with crimson liglits for some illumination.
Busoga mav well boast of being one of the most beautiful districts of
the Protectorate. I would that it were equally healthy. Here and there
there is high ground where Europeans can live without much fever, but
in the immediate proximity of the waters of the Victoria Xyanza it is
often unhealthy. But what a country of noble landscapes I

Perhaps next to the snow-range of Euwenzori, highest of African
mountains, the most interesting landscape in the I'ganda Protectorate is
that which I have entitled "The Birth of the Nile." The picture given
here is taken on the west side of the Ripon Falls, at Bugungu, at the
spot where Speke was led by the Baganda in 1860, to see with his own
eyes how the greatest lake in Africa gave birth to the mainspring of the
greatest river. The Victoria Xyanza (the area of which is about 27,000
square miles) was first sighted by Speke in 1858, and although he saw-
but one of its restricted southern gulfs, he believed the stories the Arabs
told him of its vastness, and jumped to the conclusion that it was the
main source of the Nile. Nearly three years were to elapse before he was
able to prove his startling prognostication by the siglit of the Victoria
Nyanza at the head of Napoleon Gulf suddenly developing a marked
current and falling away in foam over the rocky baiTier named by Speke
the Ripon Falls. Speke, in his researches, was lucky in that he was led
straight to his object In' the intelligent Baganda. Had the northern
shores of the Victoria Nyanza been inhabited by savages unwilling or

Spathodla mlotica

AXD THE A ICTORIA NYAXZA

69

unable to give infortnation, we can |)ieture the innumerable disappoint-
ments that Speke and (jrrant might have sustained as thev explored gulf
after gulf, creek after creek, inlet after inlet, which the great lake pushed
towards the noitli, and all dF which save one were bHnd allevs.

There is nothing about the beautiful Napoleon Gulf as one enters it
from the south to show why it, more than any other bav or inlet of the
lake, should be the issue of the Nile, exce])t jx'rhaps that as vou near

58. napoleon gulf (looking south) and the "row ok white fangs
(an ancient rocky barrier)

the northern end of the gulf you may discern a slight, a very sliglit,
current tending northwards. But this current is faintly discernible right
across the lake, north-eastwards, from the mouth of the Kagera (the most
important feeder of the Victoria Nyanza) towards the Jiusoga coast.
Nevertheless, the winds that sweep over the "Victoria Lake are given to
causing false tides and false currents, and the casual traveller would not
be particularly struck with the drifting of vegetation which certainly does
occur from the mouth of the Kagera towards the Riiion Falls. At the

70

THE CEXTRAL PROVINCE

northern extremity of Napoleon Gulf, which is one of the most beautiful
land- and water-scapes of the world, there are bold hills which come down
almost cliff-like towards the lake shore. The traveller advancing towards
what seems to be the end of the gulf is aware, first of all, of a long row
of white fangs, the remains of a rocky barrier which no doubt preceded
the existing Eipon Falls as the gateway of the Nile. These rocks are
whitened almost to the whiteness of snow by the guano of innumerable
water-birds, chieflv cormorants and darters. Passing to the left or to the
right of this row of white fangs, one lands either at the Bugungu

59. THE RIPON FALLS AT THE BIKTH OF THE NILE

(Uganda) or Jinja (Ijusoga) side of the Kipon PVlls. A sharp turn of the
narrow gulf to the north-west suddenly reveals a swift-flowing current and
an irregular curtain of spray broken at intervals by densely wooded
islets crowned with tall palms. The banks of the river— as it has
now become — are perhaps 200 feet above the water, and are densely
wooded. A mile back on either side, however, from the water's edge, the
place of the woodland is taken by agreeable downs of short grass, studded
with occasional trees. It would be difficult to find more gracious land-
scapes than may be observed in the vicinity of the Eipon Falls. The
Nile at its birth is perhaps 300 yards wide. The falls are probably not

AND TTTE YICTOUIA NYANZA

71

more tlian thirty feet in depth, though this height varies slightly
according to the season of the year, for the level of the Victoria Nyanza
has a rise and fall of about two feet in average seasons.

To my mind the Kipon Falls are best seen from the Uganda side.* A
winding path leads from the green downs of Bugungu to the water's edge
immediately below the fall, and here one may indulge in the most
delightful familiarity with this stupendous movement of nature; for in
perfect safety one may peep upwards through the welcome shade of over-
hanging trees into the awful green arch of water that is streaming over

60. THE El POX FALLS

the unseen step. As you watch the descent of this tremendous cascade
you can see large fish as though they were enclosed in thick glass or in
aspic being carried down the descent of water— unwillingly, as I believe.
When the glassy green slope breaks into snowy foam, the great fish leap
high into the air as if making frantic struggles to ascend ^the cascade
and regain the placid gulf from which they have unwillingly2.drifted. In
this tinv little cove at the side of the great foil the natives stand with
long spear-like harpoons stabbing at the fish as they are carried over.

* The Nile is the boundary between the Kingdom of Uganda and the adjoining
District of Busoga.

72

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

and frequentlv impaling antl })ulling them in to the rocky ledge. White
egrets and black cormorants stand on every pinnacle of rock across the
falls with the same object of seizing fish.

From the heights of Bugungu, above the river and below the falls, a
glorious landscape is made up of green forest fading into purple (near
the foregroimd the rich green wild date palms are brightened by their
bunches of orange dates), and of a blue-grey river with beryl-green
reflections breaking into snow-white foam (a faint spray drifts across the

6l. THE RIPOX FALLS, FROM BUGUNGU

sun-lit vegetation like blue smoke), and then spreading away in the
foreground into a yellowish turmoil with creamy crests and nut-brown
hollows. Over all is a sky of pale azure, across which cloudlets nearly as
white as the foam of the falls slowly travel before the lake breeze. Here
and there on the opposite bank, where the ground is not green with the
richest vegetation the bare rock or soil gives a pleasant warm touch of
reddish ochre to a scheme of colour which might otherwise be too
monotonously blue, green, and white. If you include a foreground where
the Bugungu downs overhang the foaming de})ths, there is long grass, with
a silky s^heen and bright mauve and yellow flowers, while the many birds
and butterflies give flashes of light and colour as they flit to and fro.

AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA

73

The northern coast of the A'ictoria Xyanza from Kavirondo Bav to the
western confines of Uganda is fringed with a chain of islands large and
small. Some are mere guano-covered rocks, sticking up like white pinnacles,
and ci'owned with cormorants. Other are strange assemblies of water-worn
boulders [died one on top of the other like a ruined temple of megaliths
built by some Cyclopean race. Indeed, to use simpler diction, I might
say that these islands of naked boulders reproduce over and over again
excellent imitations of Stonehenge. OF this character is Dolwe Island,
far out in the lake, in its north-east corner. Dolwe has pleasant sandy

62. THE RIPON FALLS, FKOM BUGUNGU

coves, fine shady trees, and a good deal of native cultivation ; but much
of its attendant islets and rocky shores consists of these extravagant piles
of boulders, on which are sometimes poised erect monoliths. Many a jjicture
might be painted here. The clean water, absolutely clear of sediment on
this rocky coast, is deep, untempered ultramarine. The boulders are a cool,
clean pale grey, glistening in the sunlight, polished by some past attrition.
Others, standing out in the water as strange pinnacles, are snow-white with
the guano of ages. They are perched on by cormorants of black-green
with white breasts. Peeping through these natural Carnacs and t^tone-
henges, one may catch many a pleasing glimpse of bright green verdure
and golden sandy cove looking towards the milder aspects of the

74

THE CENTRAL PROYIXCE

island. These extraordinary heaps of water-worn boulders of granite,
which may be seen in so many parts of the northern half of the Victoria
Nyanza, will probably tell a tale of interest to the geological student
who is capable of reading their riddle.

Other islands of the northern ^'ictoria Nyanza are little worlds of them-
selves, are the size of an English county, possibh'. Of such is Buvuma,
which lies at the entrance of Napoleon Gulf not far from the birth of
the Nile. Buvuma is shaped very much like the Island of Celebes in the
Malay Archipelago, and. like this island, has long, attenuated peninsulas
studded with high mountains. In Buvuma these mountains in places I'each

63. FOREST ox THE SHORES OF AX ISLAXD

to heights of more than 2, <)()() feet above the level of the lake, heights
which will prove valuable and accessible as sanatoria for white settlers on
the Victoria Nyanza. The Island of Buvuma is of great interest. Its
inhabitants belong to the same stock as the Basoga, and do not differ
markedly in appearance or language from that people or from the kindred
Baganda. But for 100 years or more there has been a deep-seated feud
between the Bavuma and the Baganda. :Many a king of Uganda has
endeavoured to conquer Buvuma, and has failed, and sought an alliance
instead. In this island the people have hitherto resolutely refused
Christianity, and adhered to the old fetishistic religion, about which more
will be said in Chapter XVI. The worship of these spirits is chiefly

^

AND THE VICTOEIA NYANZA

75

64. (OAST Of THE MAIN ISLAM', SESE

carried on by offerings of

food and drink that are

placed in little lints ont-

side the villages, often

in the dense forest.

These grass huts are sur-
mounted by a long peak

or steeple made of sheaves

of grass. Sometimes,

however, the place for

fetish offerings is a h(jl-

lowed stone, and over this

is suspended a large grass

extinguisher, hung from
the bough of a tree, and

shaped like a reversed

funnel.

Some of the liigh
laud in Buvuma is rocky,
and not unduly lush in

vegetation ; but there are patches of splendid forest and many of the
villages near the lake shore are concealed in the emerald-green depths of
vast banana plantations. So high do these bananas grow, so broad are
their leaves, and so luxuriantly do they interlace in shutting out the sky,
that you feel on entering such a grove as though you had been by
magic placed in the heart of a gigantic emerald. The sunlight coming
through the thick green leaves make all the white men's faces bear a
ghastly pallor, while the exposed skin of the natives becomes a rich bronze-
green. Many of the trees in the Buvuma forests produce an acid yellow
plum, which when cooked with plenty of sugar makes a most agreeable
conserve, and is one of the few fruits I have ever met with in Africa worth
bothering about from a culinary point of view. This fruit is in all
probability derived from a species of Parinarium. It is a very distant
relation of the plum family. These fruits attract large numbers of a bold,
noisy bird, a species of turaco or plantain-eater, which is in all probability
the more generalised type from which the splendid l)luc plantain-eater
(Corythjeola) originated. The colours of this Schizorhis (S. zonura) are
as depicted in my illustration— a rather striking mixture of deep umber,
black, white, ash-colour, and greenish grey, and the beak with its lemon
edged with red makes a bright note of colour. But for the bird's noisy
liabits its coloration would be very protective, as when he keeps still
amongst the branches he cannot be distinguished from their brown, grey,

76

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

black, and white ; while his lemon-coloured beak looks like a ripe fruit.

But like all his tribe, he is noisy and impudent, and seems to be impelled

to call observation to himself by his shouts and antics.

The wild-flowers on Buvuma are often very striking. The scarlet

Eri/thrina of the mainland is replaced by a climbing species which

bears clusters of velvety
bean-flowers of the palest
pink — extremely beauti-
ful. The whole of this
remarkable island is well
worth a separate study
at the hands of a Euro-
pean naturalist, as I am
sometimes disposed to
think tliat its vegetation,
liirds, and insects offer
indications of the island
ha\ing been isolated
some time from the
mainland and having
acquired or retained
peculiar forms.

3Iany of the islands
of the Victoria Nyanza

6^. NATIVES 01-' TilE SESE ISLANDS , -i.!^ ^1

are covered with the
densest forest, and will be of great value in supplying fuel for steamers.
A great deal of this forest also produces valuable indiarubber, while the
landscapes it forms in combination with green downs of short grass^
sandy coves, blue inlets of the lake, and pretty villages will certainly
delight the future tourists that the railway will bring to the shores of
the lake and comfortable steamers convey to these exquisite archipelagoes^
these

Summer isles of Eden lying in dark purple spheres of sea.

Of such is the Sese Archipelago, which, though belonging politically
to the Uganda Province, may moi-e fitly be described here whilst I treat
of the lake and its islands in general, the more so as there is a certain
kinship between the people of Busoga and of all these islands of the
northern half of the lake, a kinship of race and dialect. The Sese
Archipelago consists of one very large island that is nearly divided in
the middle by a narrow isthmus, about eight or nine smaller islands which
are inhabited, and almost uncounted islets and rocks too small or too barren

- <

— T^

^ r

y. C.

AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA

77

for habitation. The h\iid often rises on these ishmds to considerable heights
above the hike level — imposing downs covered with short emerald-green
grass. Along their shore.s, and in the valleys between the downs, there
is extremely rich forest. The Basese are great fishermen, and make long
and daring voyages in their red canoes. These are similar to the canoes
of Uganda, and are made of adzed planks of soft wood fastened together
with leather thongs and canlked.

The only large mammal on the Sese Islands is that strange marsh-
dwelling antelo[)e (or, as 1 prefer to call it, tragelaphj which was first
discovered by Speke, the Limnotragws spekei. This is a creature covered
with long, weedy, chocolate-grey hair, with white spots about the jaws,
and horns like a bushbuck's, onlv mucli lartjer. I sliall liave more to

■niA';i-:i. \1'M

say of this creature in dealing with the zoology of the country. It still
frequents, though in much reduced numbers, certain uninhabited islands
in the South Sese group. Soon after the establishment of the British
Protectorate it came to the knowledge of two English officers who were
employed in connection with a surveying expedition that these antelopes
were to be found in numbers on some of the Sese Islands. They accordingly
came here in canoes, landed on the island, and killed, the natives report,
over fifty of these creatures, for no other purpose apparently than the
mere pleasure of slaughtering a rare and defenceless animal. A few heads
were taken away as trophies, but for some time the whitening bones of
the uselessly destroyed antelopes testified to an unfortunate episode in
the history of this animal, which in earlier days, the natives say. was
quite a marked feature of the archipelago, swimming to and fro lietween
the islands. Since this sporting ex[)edition Speke's tragelaph has been

78

THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

placed on the " Wliolly Protected " list, and may not now be killed
without a special licence.

When tourists flock in numbers to the Victoria Nyanza, steamer trips
will certainly be made down the centre of the Sese Archipelago. The

67. A CKEEK ON THE VICTORIA NYAN'ZA ^

waters of the lake are calm in these sheltered passages, and are deep
blue. The islands often rise high from the water's edge, and exhibit
all tints in the gamut of green, from the dark black-green of the primaeval
forest to the emerald green of the banana plantations and the pale
greenish yellow of the higher downs where the grass is short. In places
where the rock is exposed it is generally a grey granite. Chocolate and
wiiite fishing eagles, fawn-coloured Goliath herons, and bronze-tinted
darters frequent the trees overhanging the water. Sandy coves are
dotted with couples of the Nettopus, or Pygmy goose, an exquisite little
bird, as gaily painted as a mandarin duck, which I have illustrated in
another part of this liook.

Besides the islands already placed on the map, and which it will be
noticed are never very far from the mainland, all round the lake there
is a legend that an island or group of islands exists in the very centre of
the Nyanza. The entire surface of this great lake (some 27,000 square
miles in area*) has never been thoroughly explored yet. Owing to the

* (Some authorities give the area at 26,900 s(|uare miles, but as not all the gulfs
are properly explored yet, this estimate cannot be regarded as final.

AND THE VICTORIA NYANZA

7f)

dangerous storms and rough seas which prevail on the open water, and to
the fact that it is not inuch more than a year since the first sea-going
steamer was launclied, voyagers, both European and native, have been
careful to hug the coast — or, rather, tlie chains of islands — as closely as
possible in making journeys fiom one point to another, this being done
so that the canoe, steam-launcli, or sailing vessel might be able in rough
weather to run for shelter. Consequently the lake has never been
deliberately crossed yet over its open waters from north to south or east
to west. Europeans and natives, liowever, who have at times been driven
far out into tlie centre of the lake by strong winds declare that they
have sighted unknown islands, and have found tlieiu inhabited by naked
savages of hostile aspect. There are also persistent stories amongst the
natives that the waters of the Victoria Nyauza are inhabited by a monster
(known to the Baganda as "Lukwata"). This creature, from the native
accounts, might either be a small cetacean or a large form of manatee, or.

AMBATCH-TREES (iX FOREGROLNl i

more probably, a gigantic fish. So far, however, only one European has
caught a gbnipse of this creature.* Some of the natives identify it

* Sir Clement Hill crossing tlie Xyaiiza in KJOO on a small steam-huuich was
nearly capsized by some nK)nstroiis water-creature which seemed to have a large
.square-shaped, fish-like head.

80

THE CENTRAL PROYIXCE

with certain whirlpools amongst the islands in which large canoes can be
sucked down.

Compared to Tanganyika and Nyasa it would seem as though the
A'ictoria Xvanza was a relatively shallow lake. The deepest sounding yet
taken shows only a maximum depth of 240 feet. On smooth rocks like
those of Dolwe Island there is a very well-marked water-line about six
feet above the average height of the lake at the present day. In the
alisence of any discernilile water-line at a higher elevation, or the traces
of ancient beaches, it would seem as though the lake at the present day'
was not much more than six feet below the highest level to which it has
ever attained.

In the quiet backwaters of the Victoria Xyanza, where the m.ovement

69. WATEH-LILIES, VICTORIA XYAXZA:

of the water into waves is checked by papyrus or sandlianks, marsh
vegetation is rapidly taking possession of the shallow water and choking
it up. ]\Iany a creek or bay marked as such on the map now presents
no water surface to the eye, but is a mass of bright green marsh. There
collects first of all in these sheltered waters that pretty floating plant,
the Pistia sti:atiotes, the appearance of which is like a small cabbage or
lettuce floating on the water. This Pistia sends out horizontal straight
roots like cords. From the end of the root springs up another plant,
which again shoots out a horizontal root, and so in a short space of time
a pool may be covered with a network of Pistia stratiotes, and even be
a very pretty object to look at, for this water-plant — allied to the duck-
weeds and arums — is of a bright bice green, powdered with a sort of
bluish bloom. Then a long grass begins to grow far out into the

AND THE VICTOIMA NYANZA

81

sheltered water, its stems being something like tifteen or twenty feet long
when the portion which is under the water is added to that which is
above the surface.

The ambatch next makes its appearance. This is a species of bean
with large flowers of absolute orange. In growth the ambatch has a
gouty, swollen grey trunk of pithy wood, a fibrous substance which is so
light that rafts are made of it by fishermen and others for paddling about
on some of these lakes and on the Upper Nile. The ambatcli plants
swell as they grow, and finally make quite a wall or breastwork of pithy
wood, behind wliich masses of floating vegetation collect. Here you have
a very frequent form of sudd, a constant obstruction in sheltered waters
with a sluggish current. These inlets and gulfs of the Victoria Nvanza,
as in most other African lakes, ai'e
covered with water-lilies. These
are either that beautiful blue lotus-
flower of India or a white water-
lily scarcely distinguishable from
that whicli the Komans introduced
into England. Another kind, with
leaves much like those of the
ordinary Xyhiphwd, has curious
blossoms of bright sulphur-yellow
which look as though they were
made of fleecy cotton-wool. These
flowers are quite unlike in appear-
ance those of the ordinary water-
lily type. A bunch of long buds
grows at the end of the stalk,
coming up from the bottom of
the water. The buds remain below
water till they are about to blossom,
when they revolve on their axis
and erect themselves above the
water, blossom into their bright
sulphur-coloured star, then droop
and turn down the o[)posite side,
having revolved through more than
half a circle. In this way one
never sees on the surface either a
bud or a withered flower, nothing

but the yellow fleecy stars of the perfect blossoms dotted in and out of
the card-plate leaves of green tinged with copper.

VOL. I. 6

70. YELLOW WATEK-LILV ON THE VU TOIUA NVANZA

82 THE CENTRAL PROVINCE

There are several characteristic creatures which haunt these acres of
water vegetation, both on the indented shores of the Victoria Nyanza (in
its northern portion) and in the not dissimilar marshes along the Victoria
Nile and in the interior of Uganda. There is that strange bird with the
monstrous head — Bakcniceps rex, a grotesque development of a jjrimitive
type half-way between stork and heron. This creature, with blue-grey-
ash-colour plumage, and an enormous shoe-shaped beak of mottled red
and yellow, with its ridiculous little twisted crest at the apex of the
monstrous head, and its huge eye of pale yellow, its upright carriage
and solemn demeanour, is one of Nature's efforts at humorous expression.

The dapper little lily-trotter (Farra), which is a peculiar development
of the plover type with a body shaped like that of a moorhen (chocolate-
brown, greenish-black, and cream-colour), the legs of a coot, and toes
which have developed enormously lengthened claws (so that the bird is
able to spread these spider-like feet over the surface of the water vegetation,
amongst which it hunts for the insects on the thick leaves) ; the water
antelope, with its twisted horns and shaggy hair of reddish grey ; the
otter, of golden-brown with a white belly ; the crocodile, lying in ambush
either for human being, antelope, or iish ; and, amongst many odd fishes,,
that extraordinary lung-tish locally known as the " mamba," a type which
has descended almost unchanged from the Carboniferous Epoch to the
present day, are examples of characteristic forms found in the Nyanza
marshes.

The papyrus rears its apple-green jungles on all the sheltered swampy
shores of the lake. What can exceed in its own kind the beauty of this
rush — the long, smooth green stem, not completely round, but in section
like a U, with one flat side; the mop-head of exquisite, silky, uncountable
filaments, which bifurcate into even finer threads near their termination,
of the purest green, and glistening with a bluish gloss? When the
rush-head flowers there are little flat cones of pale gold inflorescence
fixed in pairs among the uncountable barren filaments. This inflorescence
forms a nimbus of gold arched over an aigrette of green. No wonder
the Egyptians never wearied of drawing the most beautiful of the rushes,
the pith of which may still provide us with paper, since the Papyrus-
antiquorum grows in enormous quantities throughout tropical Africa
from the Zambezi to Fashoda, and from Zanzibar to Senegal.

If you are quietly paddling in a canoe through these solitudes of the
lake shores— or, for the matter of that, near native villages, for he is not
shy — you may often come across a huge sun-dried crocodile of blue-grey
and sickly green, with dull black patches or spots, lying on the sandy
shore (his head, it may be, resting on a grassy bank), fast asleep, or at
any rate somnolent, in the delightful warmth, his dull reptilian brain

^^^-

84 THE CENTEAL PHOYINCE

suffused with vajjue delicious reminiscences of toothsome meals on
decayed corpses. As often as not this sleeping, smiling monster is being
solemnly gazed at by stiff, prudish egrets of snowy white, or by the round
yellow eyes of a whale-headed stork. Crocodiles would appear to exercise
a certain fascination over water-birds, who, so far from shunning them,
will inspect their sleeping forms basking in the sun, or stand about in
groups amid the grim saurians pluming themselves, and even snapping at
the flies attracted by the tainted muzzle, offensive still with the carrion
on which it has just been feeding.

The Mctoria Nvanza is api)roximately 270 miles long in its greatest
length from north to south, and 225 miles broad from its fai'thest western
to its farthest eastern extension. In either direction it is possible to
steam nearlv 200 miles without sighting land. ^Nevertheless, its coasts
are fringed with many archipelagoes and large islands. These are arranged
(especially along the shores of the northern half) in such a way as to
create a fairly well-protected channel of an average twenty miles in
breadth between the coast of the mainland and the outermost chain of
islands. The existence of these islands as breakwaters between the broad
open lake (where waves as big as those in the English Channel can arise)
and the coasts of the many lands which border the Victoria Xvanza has
been an important fact in facilitating the navigation of the lake by
means of canoes and small sailing vessels. Up to the time of writing no
vessel (I believe) has ever deliberately crossed the open water of the lake
in a direct line from north to south and east to west. Journeys have
always been made within siglit of the islands or the mainland shore,
excei)t in one or two instances where heavy gales have blown daus out
far into the middle of the lake, where they have either foundered or
managed to regain smoother waters much damaged. A journey right
across this lake from Napoleon Gulf on the north to the Gulf of
Bukuml)i on the south would be almost equivalent in length to a sea
journey from Cork to Liverpool, and weather quite as rough and seas as
high might be met with as in the Irish Channel.

In the rainy seasons formidable waterspouts occur on the lake, and
are often visible from the shore. On the outer islands of the 8ese group,
the waves which break on the rocks after a high wind constitute a
surf almost as dangerous as that which might dash itself against Welsh
headlands. The water of the lake is a wonderful deep blue (except
in the stagnant Kavirondo Bay). It is absolutely sweet and good to
taste, without any of the saline flavour of the two Albert Nyanzas or of
Tanganyika.

The Whai.eheaded Stork at home.

CHAPTEll III
THE KING I) 031 OF UGANDA

^y^\iY. Province or native Kingdom of Uganda includes (besides the Sese
J- Islands which were briefly described in the last chapter) all that
part of the Protectorate which is bounded on the east by the Victoria
Nile and Lake Kioga, on the north by the marshy Kiver Kafu, the Ngusi
Eiver, and a corner of Lake Albert, on the west by the ^lisisi River and
by a line running in zigzags from the Misisi southwards to the German
frontier at the first degree of south latitude. With the exception of a
portion of this country bordering on Unyoro in the north, there is a
remarkable similarity about all the landscapes in Uganda. There are
rolling green downs rising in places almost into mountains, and every valley
in between is a marsh. This marsh is often concealed by splendid tropical
forest. Sometimes, however, it is open to the sky, and the water is hidden
from sight by dense-growing papyrus. Standing on one of tliese in-
numerable grass-covered hills in Uganda, you look from your dark green
and chocolate-red eminence on to a broad expanse below, which seems at
first to be a smooth greensward, but is in realitv a marsh of half a mile
in lireath.

This is a country intended for switchback railways. The broad native roads
make as straight as possible for their mark, like the roads of the Romans,
and, to the tired traveller, seem to pick out })referentially the highest and
steepest hills, which they ascend perpendicularly and without compromise.
It is impossible to ride u[) or down many of these hillsides, and difficult
enough to walk. Yet the chocolate-coloured road surmounts a hill and
plunges down into the inevitable marsli or forest, which it crosses on a
long causeway of white sand built up between stakes and a basketwork
of lath. After the hot sunshine, which has played on the traveller's back as
he toiled up the hill, with its red soil and very green grass, the plunge into
the cool depths of forest, with their innumerable palms, wild bananas,
and soaring trees with white trunks, gives a delightful sense of relief, and
he is sorry when the pretty causeway of white sand comes to an end,
and he must toil once more up the opposite bank of red clay. I am afraid
the country being of this nature it will prove extremely expensive to

85

86

THE KINGDOM OP UGANDA

con^itruct a vaihvav across it, though a short railway from the coast of
Uganda to Kuweiizori and tlie south end of Lake Albert would be of immense

72. MAESH IN UGANDA (WITH NATIVE CAUSEWAY)

value in opening up easy communications with the Congo Free State and
the Egyptian Nile.

The north-western parts of Uganda have not so many marsh valleys,
and the green downs become picturesque rocky hills whereon crags make
wonderful imitations of ruined castles. In the Districts of Singo, Ewekula,
and Bugangadzi the scenery is charming — downs of short thick grass
crested and dotted with trees, with acres and acres of wild-flowers, a
single tint — mauve, yellow, blue, or pink — prevailing. To the north-
east the country becomes more marshy, and however beautiful the papyrus
may be individually, one soon grows weary of these endless marshes filled

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

87

with millions of nio.squitoes. Indeed, Uganda as a country has one fault
in that there is scarcely a part of it without mosquitoes, and these sometimes
belong to the fever-dealing species Anopheles. ]\Iuch of Uganda was once
unbroken tropical forest, and even at the present day there remains in
Kiagwe, the easternmost district of the province, a dense forest of con-
siderable extent, the recesses of which have never been explored bv a
European. In this forest, until quite recently, chimpanzees were found,
and the inliabitants seem to have been originally of the Congo Pvgmy
type.

Few people of any imagination or sense of the lieautiful and stu})eudous
can fail to be impressed by tropical forests such as those of Brazil or of parts
of Western and Central Africa. These forests have little of the tender
grace of an English beechwood, nor do they ever convey that exhilaration

73. FOKEST BY THE SHORES OF THE VICTOKIA NVANZA

of the pines. Amazingly beautiful they may be in patches and clumps,
but more often than not their grandeur and beauty is combined with a

88

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

certain dreadfuluess. The Euro-
pean, in fact, feels, consciously
or unconsciously, that he is out
of his element and his age, that,
as in Mr. ^^^ells's suggestive
story, " The Time -Machine,"
the wheels of time have been
reversed for him, and he has
been transported back to a past
epoch in the earth's history,
before this planet was titted in
its atmosphere and surroundings
for the presence of modern man.
I am greatly interested in botany ;
as a painter I love almost more
than anything else the forms
of vegetation, the effects of sun-
light streaming through many
different tints of green, the
gorgeous flowers on tropical trees,
the black masses of mouldering
wood, the gleaming white
columns of aspiring trees, the
emerald cascades of innumerable
tiny leaflets, and the huge bold
designs in individual leaves and

fronds that can be measured in feet and yards ; yet somehow or other I
feel oppressed and disquieted in these African forests.

Apart from tlie real but temporary annoyance of biting ants, or the
occasional danger of death from a puff-adder, there is a certain atmosphere
exhaled from this tremendous development of vegetation which must be
deleterious to a white man's health, perhaps containing too much carbonic
acid — the atmosphere of the Tertiary, and not of the Quaternary, Epoch.
Unless, too, there be a broad road traversing the forest (in which case one
is much more cheerful, and the pure beauty of the scene appeals to one
much more vividly), there is a nightmare feeling as one tries to force a
way through the dense undergrowth. The indiarubber vines scale the
highest trees and launch their thick ropes in loops and in sheer descents.
Sometimes the straight liana rojies are made beautiful by a lateral out-
growth of glossy leaves and white scented blossoms. Sometimes their
contorted loops and twirls and snake-like coils give one the impression
that not a few botanists are begi:ining to entertain of the existence in

FOREST IX LGANIIA

75- THE LIANAS OF THE RVUHEU VINES, IGANDA KOliEST

90

THE KIXGDOM OF UGANDA

plants of a dim soul, of sentience, which might even include in its manifes-
tations a humorous delight in extravagance of form.

Some of the forest trees of Uganda offer magnificent displays of flowers.

.j^«^e^B|^^

76. ERYTHRIXA TREE IX BLOSSOM

There is one, the Sjxdhodea, with crimson-scarlet flowers larger than a
breakfast-cup, and not very dissimilar in shape. These flowers grow in
launches like large 1 ouquets, and when in full blossom one of these trees
aflame with red light is a magnificent spectacle. Other trees present at
certain seasons of the year a uniform mass of lilac-white flowerets, as though
they had been powdered from above with a lavender-coloured snow. The
indiarubber-trees and lianas have white flowers, large and small, with yellow
centres exhaling a delicious scent like jasmine, but the blossom of one of
these rubber-trees is vivid scarlet. The Lonchocarpus trees have flowers
in colour and shape like the Wistaria ; from the branches of the lofty
eriodendrons depend, on thread-like stalks, huge dull crimson flowers
composed of innumerable stamens surrounded by thick carmine petals.
The Erythrina trees on the edge of the forest seldom bear leaves and
flowers at the same time. "When in a leafless state, they break out into
a crimson-scarlet efflorescence of dazzling beauty. The Pterocarpus trees
have large flowers of sulphur-yellow. ^lany creepers have blossoms of

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

91

orange, of greenish while, pink, uiid mauve. Some trees or eree))ers
{Gombretura racertiosurii) are like tlie Boucjainvillia, throwing out
wreaths and veils and cascades of the most exquisite mauve or red-violet,
where the colour is given bv bracts, the flower itself being crimson
and of small size. Blue alone appears to be missing from this gamut
of colour in the forest flowers, though it is frequently present amongst
herbaceous shrubs or plants growing close to the ground, and so far
as the trees are concerned, is often supplied bv the beautiful species

w^mt^^^^^f^'Trn'^-"-'

*^i^W^'

Iv'^^'li^.v' '

77. DKAC'.EXAS, UGANDA KOKKST

of turaco that particularly affect the forest, and by large high-flying
butterflies.

The woodland of tro])ical luxuriance ascends in Uganda to a heiglit of

92

THE KINGDOM OP UGANDA

R^^^ X^

about 6,000 feet above the
sea. At this point it be-
gins to admit forms not
specially characteristic of
the equatorial zone, such
as dracfenas and tree-ferns.
The dracaena is a very
striking object in these
Uganda forests. It is really
a tree-lily related to the
yuccas and aloes. This tree
branches, and has at the
end of each long whitish
green stem a great tuft of
sword-like leaves. From
out of these tufts spring
long drooping green stalks
covered with numerous buds,
which open into white lily-
like flowers, these again
giving place to red or
yellow berries. The draca^na
is much in favour amongst
the natives of Uganda for
forming hedges, as sections
of it stuck into the ground
take root easily. Wild
bananas are found abundantly in these Uganda forests. They are very
handsome objects in the landscape, owing to the bright grass-green of
their enormous leaves and the orange-red midribs of these huge fronds.
Unlike the cultivated banana, the fruit has no sweet pulp — merely a little
white pith — and when ripe, produces large, round, slightly flattened seeds
of glossy black, which are in much request in some parts of Africa as
ornaments or charms.

Another object of beauty in the Uganda forests is the raphia palm,
which I have not seen elsewdiere in this Protectorate, though it is a very
common object in British Central Africa. The fronds of the raphia are
the largest met with in any palm. JNIy photographs will give a better
idea than any amount of verbal descri[)tion of its enormous raceme of
dusty inflorescence, which turns to an untidy drab-coloured network
containing innumerable shiny chestnut-lirown cones.

However common the wild date palm may be in these regions, it is

78. WILD BANANA, UGANDA FOREST

79- RAPHIA TALMS, UGANJJA FOKEpiT

94 THE KINGDOM OP UGANDA

always a most beautiful object in the forests. The stem is long, slender,
and pliant — that is to say, the palm does not hold itself rigidly straight,
but droops forward somewhat. The slender, swaying grey stem is crowned
with a noble gerhe of regularly curved fronds of the deepest, richest
green, turned to green-gold when the sun shines through them. The
stalks of the ])alm near the centre, from which they spring, are often
orange coloured, and the three or four flowering branches are a vivid
orange-yellow in all their ramifications, the fruit succeeding the whitish
vellow flowerets being a bright orange when ripe, so that from a little
distance the general impression one derives from these palms is a grey
stem, an orange oriflamme at the head of the stem, from which radiates
a horseshoe of graceful pinnated fronds of the greenest green.

Whatever may be the case in the Congo basin, where the forests often
appear sadly lifeless, these woodlands of Uganda are full of colour and
noise from the birds, beasts, and insects frequenting them. JNIonkeys are
singularly bold, and frequently show themselves. There is the black and
white colobus with the long plume-tail which has been already described ;
there is a large greenish black Cercopithecus, and another species of the
same genus which is known as the White-nosed monkey. This is a
charming creature of bright colours — chestnut, blue-black, yellow-green,
and grey, with a snow-white tip to its nose. I believe its specific name is
rufoviridis. The bright-coloured turacos which have been mentioned in
connection with Busoga are even more abundant in these Uganda forests,
and there are green and red love-birds, grey parrots with scarlet tails,
and the usual barbets, hornbills, shrikes, fly-catchers, bee-eaters, rollers — all
of them birds of bright plumage or strange form.

There are otlier forest creatures that are not harmless sources of
gratification to the eye. Lying amongst the dead leaves on the path
may be the dreaded puff-adder,* with its beautiful carpet-pattern of
pinkish grey, black, lemon-yellow, and slaty blue, and with its awful head
containing poison glands more rapidly fatal than those perhaps of any
other viper. Numerous pythons, from fifteen to twenty feet in length
(generally disinclined to attack human beings, however), are coiled on
the branches of the trees, or hang by their tails like a pendent branch
swaying to and fro in the wind. Their chequered patterns of brown and
white are rendered very beautiful sometimes by the bloom of iridescence
which imports rainbow colours into tlie scales when the skin is new.
The pythons may be disregarded as a dangerous element to human beings,
and the puff-adder, though his bite may kill you in an hour or less, is
too sluggish to attack, unless by some blunder you tread on liim and
wait to see the consequences. Therefore the snakes are fa!- less an

* Bit is gahonica.

"Death" — the gaboon puff adder.

{BlTlS GABOXICA.)

THE KINGDOM Oi' UGANDA

95

annoyance or an iin])(Mlinient to tlie exploration of tliese forests than the

RAFHIA PALMS. IGA.NKA FOREST

biting ants. These creatures are a veritable plague in moist, hot regions
where there is abundant vegetation. I suppose they are sometimes at

96

THE KINGDOM OY UGANDA

home and resident in tiieir underground labyrinths, but they are a
restless folk, for ever seemingly on the line of march. Tiiey traverse
forest paths in all directions along causeways of their own worn in the
soil 1)V the passage of their thousands. When you come across one of
these armies of ants in motion, on either side of the main stream, which
is perhaps only lialf an inch broad, there may be a couple of feet of
biting warriors in a swarming mass on either side of the lapidly marching
army of workers carrying pupce. Sentinels are out far and wide in all
directions, and if you pause anywhere within a. few feet of this marching

h. WILD DATE PALJIS [PHUiXIX SP1.\0SA ?), UGANDA

body of ants you will very soon feel the consequences in a series of
painful nips as though from red-hot pincers. These warrior ants know no
fear. They attack any creature which comes near their line of march,
burying their powerful mandibles in the flesh, and will then let the head
be torn from the body sooner than give way.

A description of Uganda would not be complete without a picture of
the banana groves wliicli, from an agricultural point of view, form the
distinguishing feature of this country. The cultivated banana is possibly
not native to Africa in its origin. I believe botanists consider that it

THE KINGDOM OP UGANDA

97

first diverged from wild foriiis of Musa in Eastern Asia, and like all the
other food products cultivated by the Negro, travelled to troitical Africa
from India at some pre-historic ])eriod. I, too, held this opinion once,
but I cannot endorse it so heartily now, on reflection. I believe there
is no record of the banana having been known to the ancient Kgy])tians.

02. TllK HANANA Of UGANDA ^ONE UF THE THIRTY ODD VARIETIES)

Its scientific name. Mam, is of course only a Latinising of the Egyptian-
Arabic word mu8, and ^Nluhanunadan Egypt only knew the fruit in the
Middle Ages* Therefore it is not very likely that the cultivated banana
reached trojdcal Africa from Asia, by way of Egypt, since its introduction

* The word "banana" was, I believe, introduced and s])read l)y the Portuguese,
and is possibly derived from a ^^'est African word.

VOL. I. 7

98 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

to Xegroland would be almost too recent to ex[)lain its long connection
with Negro life as testified by linguistic evidence ; neither is it easy
under present climatic conditions to conceive of the plant having been
cultivated from Western India through Southern Persia and right across
sterile Arabia. Was it by any possibility brought by some navigating
people like the Pha?nicians or Sabteans across the Indian Ocean, and
started as an introduced plant on the east coast of Africa, thence to-
spread right across the continent to the Atlantic Ocean?* Could
it be possible that the immigrants of !Malay races, speaking languages
allied to the Polynesian stock, who at unknown and distant periods drifted
across the Indian Ocean from Sumatra and Java to Madagascar, brought
with them clumps of banana roots ? The idea seems extremely improbable-
The cultivated banana, it must be remembered, produces no seed, and
therefore can only be propagated by dividing the roots. Each year
the banana, which in the botanical system is not very far off the orchid
group, sends up, like an orchid, a fresh stem from a new root, while the
old one, after flowering and fruiting, dies. Did the Arabs introduce the
cultivated banana from Eastern Asia into East Africa as they did into-
Egypt ? If so, they could onlt have done this — even if they did it
before the Islamic period— as far back as about 2,000 years ago. If
this was the means of its introduction into tropical x^frica, then in that
relatively short period it has spread over all the trojacal regions of the
continent as a cultivated plant. Of course I am fuUv aware that several
wild species of Musa are indigenous to Africa, as others are to ^Madagascar.
Is it quite impossible that none of these indigenous species of Mitsa could
have originated the cultivated form of the African banana? The fruit
of all these wild species differs from the cultivated fruit very markedly
in developing large black seeds which are embedded in a pulp that not
even an anthropoid ape could eat with any pleasure. Is it possible that
the slightly bitter, dry, tasteless white pith surrounding these large-
inedible seeds could have been any attraction to primitive man in Africa,
so that he protected and fostered one of these species of Musa until it

* An allied problem is the distribution of the cocoanut palm, the origin of
which, judging by its nearest relations in the palm family, was in the Pacific Islands^
It is quite possible to understand the cocoanut palm having been introduced all
along the east coast of Africa, where it is so abundant, by Malay, Phcenician,
Indian, Persian, Chinese, Portuguese, Arab navigators, but how did it reach the
west coast of Africa 1 The cold of the Cape peninsula would not permit of the
cocoanut travelling round the south end of the continent back to the tropics
along the west coast. Yet apparently the Portuguese found it growing on the
west coast of Africa when they first travelled in that direction. Possibly, however,
it was introduced by them after all from Brazil to the west coast, in which case it-
has spread up and down the coast with remarkable rapidity.

83. A BANANA PLANTATION

84. " HAPPY UGANDA

TIIK KlXGDOAr OF UGANDA

101

developed into the cultivated liaiiana exaetly like tlii^ nilti\ated lianaiia
separately developed in Ivistern Asia ?

It would, in any case, be ditficult to make a .M Uganda of" to-day
believe tliat liis heloved foc»d substance, which jjrovides him with a mass
of nourishing \egetable pulp, with a dessert tVuit, with sweet beer and
heady s[)irit, with soap, })lates, dishes, najjkins, and materials for foot-
britlges,* was not always indigenous to the land he dwells in, and of
which it has become the distino-uishinfif feature.

The banana, as most of my readers are aware, lielongs to an order of
monocotyledonous ])lants called the Zingiberacce, to which belong the
cannas and the root producing ginger. The flower grows ou a long stalk

KEEl) FEN(_'ES IN A.\ IGANHA TdWN

proceeding from the highest part of the plant (the stem of the banana
may grow in fertile districts to a height of twenty feet above the ground).
The corolla of the flower, with its poorly developed petals, is yellowish
white, but it is to a great extent concealed from sight behind a huge
spathe of purple. As the flower is fertilised, this spathe draws back arid
falls off. There is, however, always a considerable space of bare stalk-
between those flowers which have been fertilised, and are ]»roducing fruit,
and the end of the stalk, where the last flowers remain in a heart-shaped
bulb of purple spathes. A liuncli of bananas with the great purj^le tassel
at the end of the stalk Uiakes (piite a beautiful oiiject to paint, from the
contrast between the fat, smooth yellow-green fruit above and the purple-

* In the western parts of the Uganda rrotectorate long jiipe slenis are made out
of the stalks of banana leaves.

102

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

red knob at the end of the stalk below. The leaves of the bananas are the
most lovely green that exists in nature. When young, or when semi-
transparent, with the sunlight behind them, they offer a brilliant grass-
green to the eye. The upper surface of the leaf in its prime, however,
is blue-green, and the blue sheen is produced by a delicate bloom, which
also veils the bright colours and contrasts of the stem with a scumbled
softening of tints. The main stem of the full-grown tree is often glossy
black. Even the old and tattered fronds are beautiful by the vivid yellow
or bronze-black tints they assume. A banana plantation, therefore, is a
feast of colour for the eyes. It is also a source of joy and comfort to

"■"**"""^T~g

one's hungry porters from the assurance of satisfying food which it
supplies.

I wonder whether any of my readers remember fantastic pictures by
an Early Victorian painter (? Martin) who flourished in the 'forties of the
last century, and illustrated religious subjects, derived in great measure
from the inspiration of Milton's Paradise Lost and Regained. His
works were much perpetuated by engraved reproductions. One of these
was called "The Plains of Heaven." It exhibited a Turneresque landscape
of untrue perspective, wath those vague, unclassified trees so untruthful in
drawing to which Turner was addicted. Streams of water flowed without
any regard to the law of gravity, and a Turneresque shimmer in the

GKA6S ... IN UGANDA

104 THE KINGDOM OP UGANDA

atmosphere disguised other fauUs in drawing. In and out of these groves
and bosky hollows, and along the banks of the heavenly streams,
promenaded an innumerable company of the Blessed, as vague in drawing
as the landscape, chiefly characterised by long flowing garments of wdiite,
which did away with the necessity for the correct delineation of any limbs.

If this i)icture has been seen in its original or as an engraving by
any one visiting Uganda, that country will seem over and over again like
a black travesty of " The Plains of Heaven,'" wlierein the Baganda move
about like saints in long trailing garments. The peasants, of course, when
they are hard at work in the fields or making long journeys, will reduce
their clothing to a tucked-up bunch of bark-cloth, covering the middle
of their bodies lietween the knees and the armpits; but even the poor
people, whenever they can, delight to cover tliemselves with loose sweeping
garments made, if they are old-fashioned, out of the red-brown bark-cloth
derived from a species of fig-tree.* Since the country was opened up to
the trade of the outer world, first by Arabs, and then by Europeans and
Indians, it has been flooded with the white calico of England, India, and
America. There is scarcely any Muganda now so poor but that he cannot
afiord to wear a long trailing sliirt of white cotton or linen, with long
sleeves, and in addition a kind of rope of twisted white caHco (like a halo)
fastened round the head. At great assemblies, in market places, before
the churches or law" courts, or the residences of chiefs, or when there
is any high day or holiday, and the people come from far and wide to
attend sports got up by Europeans, then you will be impressed with this
resemblance of Uganda to "The Plains of Heaven": tlie fantastic vegeta-
tion of ultra-tropical richness with its palms and l)ananas, the gleaming
water of lake, inlet, or swamp, the red roads, intensely green grass,
brilliantly coloured flowers, and amidst this riot of colour and form the
thousands of moving figures, clad mostly in white from head to foot,
make up a picture which is scarcely a parody of ^lartin's subject.

The native capital of Uganda is, perhaps, best styled Mengo, that
being the name of the king's quarter. It has been sometimes known in
times past as Rubaga, from the name of one suburb, and Kampala, from
the name of another, the last-named being tlie quarter in which the
European Government offices ai'e established. Mengo is like ancient
Rome — only much more so ! — a city of seven hills, as any one living there
and obliged to move about knows to his cost. Each suburb or portion
of the straggling town of some 77,000 souls is a hill or a hillock in

* Though it is considered the right thing in royal or aristocratic circles for the
princesses or wives of the chiefs to wear bark-cloth rather than calico. The
"royal" bark-cloth is often covered Avith striking and tasteful designs, roughly
stencilled on it with a black dye.

THE KTXGl)r):yr of UGANDA

105

itself, with an ascent or descent so steej) as often not to he coin])assed
on liorseliack. In hetween these hills or niouiuls there are hottotns of
marsh, or there are marshy streams which slowly percolate through dense
vegetation. ^luch of this, liowever, sliould t)e written in tlie past tense,

88. CAL'.SEWAY UK BKlDGi;, ViiANliA

for a good deal has been done by the civil and military officials stationed
in the place to drain marshes, level roads, plant trees, and curb unnecessary
herbage, so that the place is jn-obably much tidier to look at and much
easier to traverse than during my former visits there.

Yet sections of the town inhabited by the little king and his court,
the native gentry, and the common people are clean and picturesque.
Keed fences of a kind peculiar to Uganda, which, by the interlacing reeds,
exhibit a bold pattern, enclose the ground on either side of the broad
red road. Behind these reed fences are nuTiierous courtvards in which

106 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

bananas grow, and at the end of eacli series of vards is the closely
thatched residence of some family or honsehold. Each house, as will be
shown later on, has various subsidiary buildings attached to it. Everything
bears a neat, swept-up appearance, and tlie handsome trees and general
richness of vegetation round the dwellings make it a city of gardens.
Along some of the roads there must be straight perspectives of one or
more miles in length, and the breadth of the avenues has about it
something royal and suggestive of a capital. ^Mission buildings, with
cathedrals in brick and stone, or in humbler materials of cane, thatch, and
palm poles, rise from three of the great hills which surround the little
basin in which the smaller mound of Kampala is situated— Kampala, the
hillock which was contemptuously given to Captain Lugard by ^Mwanga,
and where the first seed was planted from which the British Administra-
tion over all these vast territories grew and prospered. To the east of
Kampala rise the heights on which the military garrison of Indian and
Sudanese troops is established. Here a strong and well-constructed fort
has been erected, from which the whole of ^Nlengo can be dominated.
There is fast springing up about Kampala a town of Indian traders and
a larere Sudanese settlement. There are German stores, at which most
articles needful to the European settler can be purchased, besides the
well-provided Indian bazaar. The steep red roads radiate from Kampala
in every direction, and up and over every one of the encircling hills.
Yet Mengo is in some respects disappointing, for it is self-centred ; it is
difficult from any of the fatiguing heights around it to obtain any
decisive glimpse of regions beyond.

Let us take an imaginary journey together in this Kingdom of Uganda
in order that the untravelled reader may better realise the aspect of the
country and the nature of its chiefs and people. We will suppose that
we have left behind us the suburbs of Mengo, which extend almost as far
from the centre of that capital as do the suburbs of London. The road
is as broad as an English country road, quite different from the ordinary
African path (which is barely the breadth of the space occupied by men
walking in single file). The road is much rutted, and is seamed by
gullies, owing to the way in which the heavy tropical rains cut up its
soft clay surface. ()n either side of the road the grass grows high,
perhaps to heights of seven or eight feet, but it is interspersed with gay
flowering plants and shrubs. The road ascends a steep hill through this
country of luxuriant grass. The hilltop reached and the descent begun,
the traveller sees before him a broad marsh in the valley below. The
descent to this marsh is possibly so abrupt that it is deemed wiser to
get off the horse or mule and leave that beast to slither down side-
ways. At the edge of the marsh tlie road becomes a loner narrow

THE KIXGDOAF OF UGANDA

107

causeway of wliitp sand Imilr up lietween stacks of palisades, which are
further streiigtlieued by rough Imsketwork. These causeways not having
been originally constructed to be traversed by a man on horseback, the
sandy loam which is heajjed on a foundation of jiapyrus stalks and sticks
has not a very sure surface. The horse or mule, or even the man on foot,
may suddenly sink a foot down into this loose material, though there is
very little danger of a broken limb. ()ut in the middle of the marsh a
greater looseness of structure in the causeway no doubt permits of the

PAPYRUS IX AX UGANDA MARSH

slow percolation of the water, for these swamps are generally the beds of
rivers nearly stagnant in their flow.

Looking on either side as the marsh is he\ng crossed, the traveller will
notice first of all the gigantic papyrus, which may be growing up as high

lOS THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

as fifteen feet al)ove the water, and interspersed amongst })ai)yrus roots
are quantities of fern, of amaranth, or " love-lies-a-bleeding," and the
gorgeous red purple Bissotis flowers, a yellow composite like a malformed
daisy, and large masses of pink or lavender-coloured Pentas. There are
also sages and mints which smell strongly of peppermint, and a rather
handsome plant with large white bracts and small mauve flowers. In and
out of this marsh vegetation flit charming little finches of the waxbill
type. One of them is particularly beautiful, with a body of black, white,
and dove colour, and a crimson back. The next ascent of the inevitable
hill which succeeds the marsh may lead one through a more wooded
countrv, where, amongst many other flowering shrubs, grows a species of
mallow {Ahidilon), with blush-pink flowers in clusters, like dog-roses in
general appearance. The following descent into the swampy hollow may
be one of those plunges into grand tro[)ical forest which have been already
described with ill-regulated enthusiasm — for the average reader who attempts
to follow these descriptions may not be as deeply moved as is the autlior
by these vegetable splendours.

Perhaps it is by now past mid-day, and the afternoon sun is cruelly
hot. Between the traveller and the town of the nearest big chief where
he intends to camp is a hill unusually high, and with such steep sides-
that mo^t people are obliged to dismount and walk to the summit. Owing
to the heat and the stee[)ness of the ascent the climb is punctuated by
peevish stops, during which the perspiration is wrung from one's brow.
One sits down anywhere, anyhow, amidst the vegetation and fans a heated
face ineffectually with a damp pocket-handkerchief. The traveller is here
in a mood to make very depreciatory remarks about Uganda, and to wish
that he had never set out on this particular journey. Making one more
effort, however, the last [)art of the ascent is gained, and suddenly on the
apex of the hill, under the shade of a beautiful spreading tree, one sees a
sight which looks unreal in its op[)ortuneness — a table spread with a
snowy white cloth and set out with tea-things. One or more camp-chairs,,
according to the number of Euro2)eans of the party ; a group of smiling
white-clothed attendants : a camp-fire over which a kettle is boiling ; in
short, all the requirements for a delightful tea-party just at that time of
the afternoon when tea would be most welcome. All these preparations
have been made without consulting the traveller by the chief or sub-chief
of the district, very possibly not even the one he is going to visit. It
has been guessed that the white man will find this hill the most trying
point in his day's journey during the heat of the afternoon sun, and
therefore this spot has been selected as the most suitable one to prepare
tea to cheer him on his way. Very possibly one may only guess all this,
as the attendants, like well-trained English servants, offer no conversation

^■^P^i^

5#P

110

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

unsolicited ; and with tlieir inborn tact the chiefs are not there to worry
you with compliments or greetings. The tea, therefore, is drunk — cup
after cup, made with delicious fresh milk — gratefully and silently, and
the traveller finishes the rest of his journey in a cheerful frame of mind.
The place where he will encamp for the night is probably a rest-
house on the skirts of a large native settlement, or it may even be on
the big open space where the weekly markets are held, or near to which

91. IN A SWAMP FOREST, UGANDA

the church or mosque has been erected. As one nears the camp, excited
white-robed messengers come flying along the road tliree at a time, running"
as hard as they can to meet the European as he advances on horseback.
" Chief So-and-so has sent us to greet you,*' they shout, besides adding
many of the usual and elaborate Uganda greetings. The traveller bows ;.
they wheel round and run back as hard as they came. A few hundred
yards farther on, more messengers arris'e with the same statement. The
last of these that come remain with the guest, give him. the news, and.

A CaUSKWAV lllKOUCH SWAMTV I'OREST : UCANDA.

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

111

direct him to the place where preparations have been made for liis camping.
The ground has been cleared, or it may be that an unusually spacious
rest-house has been swept out, its floor laid with fresh green grass, and
every reasonable preparation has been made for tlie rapid installation of
the tired travellers and their porters.

You have scarcely got into your temporary quarters before you hear

92. TEA OX THE ROAD, UGANDA

the noise of a great multitude. Any numlier of persons from twenty to
five hundred, according to the importance and size of your caravan, are
converging on your camp, loaded with bunches of green unripe bananas,*
or smaller quantities of yellow ripe ones, carrying grass bundles in which
are tied up sweet potatoes, these being now much cultivated by the chiefs.
Other bundles contain beans, Indian corn, ground-nuts. Baskets of i)lump

* The native usually prefers the unripe banana cooked, as his mainstay.

112 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

fowls uttering a joyous cackle, unconscious of tlieir coming doom, and
paniers containing, it may be, hundreds of eggi^. are being carried by other
smiling folk, ^yhile small boys drive up recalcitrant sheep and goats. If
vou are a very big man, or the chief you are visiting is a very important
person, it is as likely as not that a bullock or even a milch cow — four
bullocks, four milch cows — may be added to this great gift of food. It is
certain that if the chief has any cows and you are a European known to
favour tea in preference to whisky, there will be gourds and baskets of
fresh milk. 1 use the word " basket " advisedly, for the Baganda can
weave basketwork so finely tliat they can in this way construct pottles to
contain milk. The milk may also be brought in earthern pots or jars ;
in which case, although perfectly sweet, it will have a slightly smoky taste,
owing to the manner in which the pot is cleaned from the remains of sour
milk. Three or four headmen of extremely clean appearance, tlieir eyes
dancing with friendliness and their tongues uttering rapid salutations, will
accompany this army of food-bearers. They will arrange the offerings in
an orderly semi-circle, ])lacing the more precious things before the door of
your house or tent. After mentioning the name of the donor, they will
salute and retire, having jiroliably inquired what time it will be convenient
to vou to receive their chief. I never in all my travels in Africa encountered
a people of more delightful native politeness and tact than the Baganda.
Other natives and native chiefs quite as friendly will call upon you at
the wrong time, bore you with questions, and rob much of their hospitality
of its value by this waste of time and added weariness. It has never been
so in all my experience with the Baganda.

If, after such a present of food, you are not a perfect brute (and perfect
brutes are rather commoner among white men than black), v'ou will not
only give the chief an opportunity of calling on you, but will probably
invite him to take tea or luncheon or dinner with you. He will arrive
with a large suite, who. after salutations, will retire and leave him to your
society ; he will come clad in snowy white, with possibly a European coat
or jacket over his long shirt, and his feet will be encased in handsome
sandals of thick decorated leather, with bands of otter-fur. He will eat
and drink with you with manners that offer no scope for fastidious criticism.
During the meal, if you are able to talk with him in Swahili or Luganda,
he will give you no end of interesting information, but he will be always
on the alert to take his departure at the least sus[iicion of weariness on the
part of his entertainer.

When you go to pay him a return visit there will be the usual running
to and fro of messengers, and you will arrive at an opening in one of
those mile-long, lofty fences of plaited reeds to which reference has
already been made. Going through this doorway, which may be masked

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

11.*^

by a reed screen, you will enter a large, clean empty courtyard opening
into three or four other courtyards, in the last of which you may be
greeted by a band of native music — flutes, horns, drums, etc. After
passing through all these empty courts one arrives at the reception house.
This is a building with an immense thick thatched roof descending in

.^^^e^

93. A PRESENT OB" FOOD, UGANDA

a bold slope and lifted up over the eaves of the doorway. Ascending a
mud step or two, perhaps, we enter the dwelling, the roof of which is
supported by a great many palm poles, and is therefore fairly lofty after
the low doorway is passed. The floor is strewn with flue sweet' grass.
On this are placed closely woven mats or beautifully dressed skins, and
there are numerous stools and chairs, ^'o person of any consequence in
VOL. I. 8

114 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

Uganda goes about without an attendant carrying a chair (and when chiefs
come to visit you, you need not be in any way worried about providing
seats for them to sit on, as each will bring his own). The interior of
this house may be divided into compartments by screens or bark-cloth
curtains. It is possible, however, that the dwelling in which you are
received is a relatively simple one and is not inhabited at night. Other
houses of a more elaborate character will be found in adjoining court-
yards— the big man's own private dwelling and the house of his wife, and
other huts for female members of the household or children, kitchens
and latrines. On this last point the Muganda displays a sense of decency
and cleanliness almost on the English leveh

The forests and marslies of Uganda abound in remarkalile monkeys
and brilliantly coloured birds to a degree not common elsewhere in tropical
Africa ; but the Kingdom of Uganda, as may be imagined from its
relatively dense population — a population once much thicker than to-day
— has been to a great extent denuded of its big game. In the large
District of Euddu, and in Koki, which form the southern districts of the
kingdom, rhinoceroses, elands, and buffalo are still found in the bush
country. In parts of Kiagwe also, on the east of the kingdom, there
are buffalo, belonging to the Abyssinian, and not to the South African type.
The bastard hartebeest (Dcmicdiscus), known to Euroj)eans as the " topi,"*
and Thomas's kob (Cobus thomasi) are still found, though in decreasing
numbers, in the more grass-covered country of the north-west and north,
in which lands also Grant's zebra is met with in some numbers.
Speke's tragelaph is still found in most of the big marshes and along
the lake shores. Elephants are fairly abundant some distance from the
more thickly populated centres, and it must be remembered that most
of the population converges to the shores and islands of the Victoria
Nyanza. The lion is a rapidly decreasing danger to the inhabitants, but
the leopard is most abundant, even haunting the precincts of such a
centre of European activity as Entebbe. There are two large wild-cats
most common and characteristic of Uganda — the serval and the servaline.
The servaline cat grows sometimes almost to the size of a leopard. Its
skin, besides a few bold black markings, is covered with an infinitude of
tiny black spots, so crowded together as to give it a dun colour at a
distance. These skins are much in favour witli the natives, as are also
the blue-mouse-coloured pelts of the tiny Cephalophus antelope, the
" entalaganya " of the Baganda, who sew these little blue-grey silky skins
together and make beautiful mats of them. It is strange that the Baganda,
who have a decided a]jpreciatiou of beauty of form and outline, should
apparently have no sense of colour to appeal to, though thev live in a
* For native names of antelopes, etc., see Vocabularies (Chapter XX.).

116 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

land of blazing hues, a country where Itird, Initterfly, and flower — even
earth-worms v-unite to display under brilliant sunshine all the primary
colours and many of their most exquisite blendings.

A charaeteristiG tree of the Uganda Protectorate, and especially of

Uganda itself, is the ekirikiti, so often referred to in the preceding

chapters. This is a species of Erythrina which is deciduous, and ordinarily

flowers when the leaves are absent from the tree. The grey-green branches

are covered with flower-clusters which might have been cut out of crimson -

scarlet velvet. Each flower in these clusters is like a large bean-flower,

but the hood which covers the calyx is prolonged at its peak into a

number of branching filaments almost of the same crimson-scarlet as the

smooth petals. The general appearance of this flower having been

sufficiently illustrated in this book (the cover is lined with it), there is

no need to waste further space on its description. It is sufficient to state

that these trees of bare grey branches hung with innumerable scarlet

lamps are familiar objects all over Uganda, in the villages and in their

precincts, and in the uncultivated bush. As the flowers turn into long

curving seed-pods, the leaves spread out. The foliage is large, divided

into three lobes, and of a bright yellow-green, so that both in leaf and

flower the ekirikiti is the gayest object in the Uganda forests or as an

ornamental tree or hedge in its gardens.*

In the interior of the Kingdom of Uganda,t besides the marshes and
swamps alluded to, there are two pieces of water of considerable size.
One is Lake Wamala in Southern Singo ; the other is Lake Kachira in
the country of Koki. This last-named lake, which was discovered by
Captain Hobart, is of great beauty of scenery. In very dry seasons it
may dwindle into three separate lakes connected by swampy rivers. Both
Lake Kachira and Lake Wamala contain very large hippopotamuses,
besides numbers of Speke's tragelaph.

Buddu is perhaps the most picturesque district of Uganda, owing to its
varied scenery of hill and tropical forest. It is, however, unfortunately the
most unhealthy portion of the kingdom for Europeans. Another district
very beautiful in scenery is the little Muhammadan country of Butambala.
There is also a good deal of fine hill scenery in Southern Kiagwe.

* Although the Baganda never seem to appreciate the feast of colour offered
by the ekirikiti, they use this tree a good deal for making hedges round their
compounds, partly for its (juick growth, and partly because the branches are armed
with formidable hooked thorns.

t This country should really be called " Buganda," which is its designation amongst
the natives ; but the land having first of all been discovered by explorers who only
talked Swahili, and who were entirely dependent upon their Swahili interpreter^ for
information, the mutilated form " Uganda " has now been irrevocably fixed as its
European name.

KKyn/KJXA roMJs.yros.i . THE Ekikikiti tree.

118 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

The administrative cajntal of I'gaiida, where the headquarters of the
Protectorate Administration are established at present, is also remarkable
for its lovelv scenery. This is situated at Entebbe, on the long indented
peninsula of that name which stretches many arms out into the lake.
"Entebbe" means in the Luganda language "a throne." There are lofty
green downs on this peninsula which command a splendid view over the
coasts and islands of the north-western part of the lake. It is round the
foot of these downs, on their southern aspect, that the European settle-
ment is built. The eastern side of Entebbe is tropical forest of exceptional
magnificence, which has been cleverly transformed by ]Mr. Alexander
Whyte into botanical gardens, some day to become notable for their
beauty. One prominent feature in the landscape of Entebbe, and in fact
of much of Southern Uganda, is the lofty incense-trees (Pachylobus). These
grow to a great height, and are perennially covered with a rich green
pinnate foliage. The rugose trunk of thick girth sweats a whitish gum^
which, scraped off and burnt on hot coals, produces the smoke of fragrant
incense. These trees produce at certain seasons of the year enormous
quantities of blue-black plums, which are the favourite food of grey
parrots, violet plantain-eaters, and the great blue Gorythaeola, besides
monkeys and hornbills. Wherever, therefore, there is one of these trees
growing, those who live in the neighbourhood may enjoy all day long the
contemplation of the gorgeous plumage of these birds, the antics and
cries of the parrots, and the wild gambols of the monkeys.

Another feature at Entebbe is the abundance and tameness of pythons,
wdiich sometimes measure as much as seventeen feet in length. The
Baganda think nothing of laying hold of the wild python, who may
perha})S have coiled himself up in some hole, and however much the
snake hisses and protests, it seldom seems to bite. Yet these snakes
could crush a man between their folds, and do crush and devour nuinbers
of sheep and goats. They seem, however, very loath to attack mankind,
and will allow extraordinary liberties to be taken with them. The vividly
painted puff-adders of the Gaboon species are as common as the pythons,
and although their bite is absolutely deadly, they, too, do not seem to be
much feared by the natives.

The fig-tree, which produces the bark-cloth of Uganda, grows, of course,
most abundantly in and around all these settlements, European and native.
The figs of this and other allied trees are much sought after by the violet
plantain-eaters. These lovely birds, whom the Baganda dislike but very
seldom molest,* show little or no fear of man. They hop and crawl along
the smooth trunks and branches of the fig-trees, spreading out their

* No appreciation is shown of their gorgeous colours. They are disliked because
of the damage they do to the bananas.

Violet Pi.ANrAiN-KAi'KRs at Flay.

THE KINGDOM OP UGANDA

no

wings and straddling across the l)i'ancli as if to exliilat tlieir lovely
colours, chasing one another with loud hoots and mocking cries. The
coloured illustration should give some idea of the crimson ])inions, violet-
l)lue body, crimson crest, and yellow beak of these ])irds, which are such
an everyday sight in and around Entebbe,

The most disagreeable feature, perhaps, of the whole of the Uganda
Protectorate, and especially of the Kingdom of Uganda, is the fre(juent
and very dangerous thunderstorms. Hitherto in these descriptions I have
had difficulty in restraining language withiu the limits of reasoned
enthusiasm when describing the scenery and colour. The reverse of this
j)leasing aspect of the I'ganda Protectorate is the almost constant presence

of mosquitoes (though these can be to a great extent banished by clearing
away the bush), the danger of severe attacks of malarial fever, and, lastly,
the thunderstorms. When you are travelling througli the wilderness, the
thunderstorm presents to you four possible ways of dying: — one: you may
quite possibly be struck and killed by lightning, or if not killed, severely
paralysed ; two : the lightning may set fire to your house or tent ; three :
the appalling wind which precedes the crash of the storm will almost
certainly level your tent with the ground, and may very probably bring
down your temporary house in ruins — in either case you may be struck
and killed by the ridge-pole of the tent or the beams of the roof of your
house ; four : you may escape death by lightning or by the downfall of
your dwelling, but you are left without a roof over your head, exposed to
the full force of the tropical rain, with perhaps nothing on but night

120 THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA

garments. The actual shock of heing out for some minutes, or half an
hour, in this douche of cold water may cause collapse, or produce
[meumonia, which may he fatal in three days.

These considerations, in the absence of properly constructed houses or
tents warranted to resist a liurricane, cause one to view with serious
apprehension the a|)proach of ever}' storm, and at places like Entebbe
there must be nearly 200 storms in the year. They generally
come on at three o'clock in the afternoon or three o'clock in the
morning. The day or the night has been extremely hot, and there
has been an utter absence of movement in the air. Over the sea horizon
of the lake purple clouds begin to form, which, as they rise and cover
the heavens, turn to an awful monotonous dun-grey, becoming whitish
over the storm centre, with one or two little patches of blackish cloud
floating over this dirty-wliite focus. The whole sky is almost covered
before the storm bursts. As a first warning (if it be daylight), the glassy
surface of the lake near its horizon becomes ruled with black lines which
are the advancing billows of the wind-lashed water. Then in the distance
arises the sound of a rushing^ wind which comes nearer and nearer until
trees a hundred yards distant are seen to be swaying and cracking, whilst
there is still a deadly calm where you are standing. Then the blast
strikes you, being preceded possibly by a cloud of blinding dust or a squall
of leaves. Doors slam in the houses ; unfastened windows are wrenched
off their hinges, and the pa])ers and light articles in the rooms are
whirled hither and thither, while in the garden or forest hard by branches
crack and loosely rooted trees fall to the earth with a frightening crash.
If you are in a tent and watching this storm, in all prol lability the
first impact of the wind has levelled your canvas to the ground, and all
your treasured belongings on your camp-table and your bed are exposed
to the rain which is now approaching. This is nothing less than a cubic
mile of grey water which is being driven towards you at fifteen miles an
hour. In this moving shower-bath you remain for thirty minutes or
more ; then if you have survived this, there may be a lull. Then another
cubic mile of water will be driven up and over you.

At last the storm settles down into a fine, steady downpour, and the
worst is over. But the lightning ! If it be night-time when the storm
comes up, you will see when the purple clouds first form over the lake
horizon that they are lit i;p every minute or so by silent flashes,
revealing with temporary vividness the shapes of the cumulus clouds.
Then for a time the coruscations cease, until the heavens are one pall of
dun-grey cloud. Almost simultaneously with the arrival of the hurricane
wind comes the first flash of pink lightning, followed immediately by an
explosion of thunder which seems to be the crack of doom. If your own

THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA 121

dwelling and porters escape (as of course tlie}^ do in the great percentage
of cases, or life in these regions would be impossible), you will almost
certainly see a tree struck or somebody else's ridge-pole go down. Tall
trees, however, are the most frequent victims, and really serve as lightning
conductors, screening the human being by receiving the worst of the
electric fluid. These terrilile flaming swords of fire reveal to you the grev
wall of water by which you are surrounded, (xradually they become less
vehement, and are accompanied after much greater intervals of time by
rumbles of thunder more bearable than the artillery crashes which first
accompanied the forked lightning. It occurs sometimes, however, tliat
when you think the storm is over and done with and are about to return
to your bed, thankful to have escaped on this occasion with your life, a
fresh storm comes up, or rather the old one returns in its circular course,
and there is a renewal of your agonies of ap[)rehension.

IN ANKOI.E

CHAPTER IV

THE JFESTEBN FBOVINCE AND THE NILE

THP] Western Province contains the Districts of Ankole and Toro, the
little territory of ^Nlboga, to the north of the Semliki River, and
the District of I nyoro, to which is also attached at present the west coast
of Lake Albert Nyanza.

Ankole is for the most part a parallel (though on a lower level) to
the Nandi Plateau in the same latitudes on the east of the Victoria
Nyanza. It consists princi])ally of a lofty hut somewhat broken tableland
4,500 to 6,000 feet in altitude, rising in many places, however, to
mountain ranges and masses of 8,000 feet or more in altitude. In fact,
here and there the heights of Ankole assume in their vegetation that
Alpine character met with on the other high mountains of the Protectorate
above 8,000 feet in height. A portion of Western Ankole which borders
the east coast of Lake Albert Edward is covered with dense tropical forest^

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

123

and this forest — verv like that of the Congo in character — also extends
into the northern hiUs of Ankole to altitudes of 6,000 and 7,000 feet.
This tropical foiest, like patches of a similar nature in Toro and Unvoro,
is said to contain chimpanzees, and it is also related- — though I have no

98. A CKATEK LAKK

proof of the correctness of. the statement — that people like the Congo
Pygmies lurk in the dense forests of Western Ankole.

The northern part of this district is exactly like Uganda in its
combination of grassy hills interspersed with marshes or sluggish rivers
choked with vegetation. South-western Ankole is a mountainous country

124

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

with a temperate climate, good pasture, and not many trees.* South-
eastern Ankole is of rather low level, and approximates in character to
average East Africa, with a marked dry season alternating with the wet,
and a tendency to parched vegetation and absence of luxuriant forests.
The scenery in the north-west of Ankole is of quite exceptional beauty,
containing a number of large broken-down craters of extinct volcanoes

that are filled with fresh-water lakes ranging in size from one mile in
area to a surface of over twenty square miles. The remains of the crater
walls rise above these clear, still lakes into hills and mountains, and
their reflections cover most of the lake surface. The vegetation along the

* In that corner of the Protectorate, in the country of Mpororo, which borders
on the Mfumbiro volcanoes (three of which are active), the whole ground, according
to Lieutenant Mundy, is covered Avith lava. It is very rough ground to travel
over, as the lava is broken into large blocks and small fragments.

A Cratkk Lakk : Ankole.

AND THE NILE

125

shores is fantastically rich in jjalms, forest trees, lianas, flowering creepers,
and wild bananas, while the slopes that are not precii)itous are covered
with cultivated banana plantations and beset with prettv little huts.
The waters of these lakes are ali\e with grebes and ducks, and the
sheltered creeks are covered with the blue lotus.

As the climate on the altitudes that overlook these crater lakes is

J

quite temperate (the surroundings are touchingly home-like with their
bracken, their daisies, and their brambles), and as the greater part of this
country is at present without native inhabitants, one may dare to hope
that a smaller repetition of the great white colony of Xandi may be
founded in Xorth-West Ankole. Xowhere in the whole Protectorate is
the scenery more continuously alluring, while the climate lacks that
touch of damp and chilliness which occasionally dims the perfection
of Nandi. Here, too, you have every mile or so a running stream of

12G

THE AVESTERX PROYIXCE

cleai- water, such a pleasaut contrast to the stagnant watercourses of
Uganda.

Except for tlie banana pLantations and the pretty little settlements of

lOI. LAKE ALBERT EDWARD, FROM KATWE (KATWE GCLF)

natives round about the crater lakes, both of which smack of former
Uganda immigration and influence, the real Ankole villages are rather
untidy and unprepossessing. They are kraals of mean huts, with loose,
straggling thatch surrounded by a hedge of thorns and an area of
trampled mud and manure, kept clear of vegetation bv the immense
herds of cattle, sheep, and goats. Here and there the dwelling of a chief
has its clay sides and door and settle decorated with black and white
designs, but for the most part there is nothing picturesque or other than
squalid about the habitations of a race which is perhaps in its aristocracy
the handsomest that is native to the Uganda Protectorate.

The inhabitants of Ankole belong to two very different types. The
mass of the population are rather well-developed black negroes, much
like those of any otlier jiart of West or South Africa. But the aristocracy,
the now celebrated Baliima, are, when of pure lilood, quite different to
their former serfs and subjects. They have the features of the Hamite
or of the ancient Egyptian, and sometimes quite a reddish yellow skin.
Like so many of the aristocracies and ruling races in Africa, they are
passionately fond of cattle, despise agriculture, which they leave to the

AND THE XELH

127

subject race, and live mainly on the produce of their flocks and herds,
thougli not to tlie same exclusive extent as the cattle-keeping Masai. Thev
have a great indift'erence to clothing, and the drapery they wear is
intended either for temporary adornment or to meet a cold wind.

Their cattle are nolile adjuncts to the landscape of granite talileiands,
rolling downs, and ornamental trees. Larger than almost any other breed
of cattle in existence, with straight backs and long dewlaps and enormous
spreading horns, they make the commonplace rubbish-heaps of the village
interesting and picturesque, and give their pasture grounds of short grass
interspersed with clumps of bracken, brambles, and English-looking flowers
the appearance of some precious bit of wild English park, in which a rich
man keeps feral cattle for their beauty and not for beef. About Ankole
and Eastern Toro there flits a black and white chat which is a near relation
of the one which is so prominent a feature in the landscapes of the Eastern

I02. I.AKK ai.i;ki:i eiavamti. katwk i.rij-

IHl-; I AM ii:i.Ai:i'.A KiriH>l;

Province, with this difference — that the white spot is on the shoulder and
not on the pinions of the wing.

Lake Albert Edward, wliich forms the western boundary of Ankole, has

128

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

a few small islands just within the British sphere near the south-east corner,
and other islets close to the Bay of Katwe on the north-east. The water
of this lake, except perhaps in the very middle or near the south end, is
brackish, or at any rate unpalatable to man. Dense forest comes to within
a short distance of the east coast, but is se])arated from actual contact with
the water by a marshy belt that swarms with water-birds. Although the
rainfall on and around Lake Albert Edward must be considerable, the ground
on the north side of the lake exhibits a vegetation of somewhat starved

103. THE SALT LAKE AT KATWE

appearance, except where the shore is actually swampy. The principal object
in the grassy landscape (though about the salt lakes of the north there
is even an absence of grass, and the country looks blasted) is the tree
euphorbia which I described in connection with the Eastern Province. The
lake, of course, abounds in fish and in birds, the latter not seeming to mind
the brackish water at all.

On some parts of its eastern and northern shores may be seen magnificent
displays of water-fowl. They may be observed, and even sketched, through
a field-glass. There are rows of Tantalus storks, with lemon-yellow beaks^
white heads and breasts, black-green wings, and shoulder feathers of exquisite

.VXD THE NILE

129

rose-pink; squadrons ol' pelicans, cohorts of crowned cranes (wadini'-, dancim/-,
and feeding on tlie shore-line), flocks of russet-white and metallic-green
Egyptian gee^e, blue-grey herons, fawn-coloured herons, white egrets, black
cormorants, black-green and white saddle-billed .^torks with crimson beaks,
purple and white ibises, and huge marabou storks, with the mottled beaks
and faces of drunkards, the scraggy necks and white plumes of dowagers,
and huge wings of satin-like grey-green. At certain hours of the day this
immense concourse of biixls will meet (no doubt attracted by shoals of fish)
to feed, fight, court, jilay, and display. In two hours ])erha})s all may have

104. THE KAl-UKU STKAIT UKTWKKX LAKES AI.BEKT EDWAlil) ANU IiWKlU'

vanished, either to proceed to another feeding place or to settle down for
the night at their roosting or sleeping resort. Their cheerful clamour
would be heififhtened by the Ixild screams of the yreat fish-eagles. These
vociferating birds when adult have boldly coloured plumage of white,
chocolate-brown, and black.

To the north-east. Lake AUiert Edward sends off or receives a curious
extension, which, on the whole, had better be called Lake Dweru. During
the rainv season the waters of Lake Dweru flow through a channel like a
broad winding river into Lake Albert Edward. During the dry season
of Ruwenzori, it is possible that the waters of Lake Albert Edward, receiving
the rain sup[)lies from south of the equator, flow nortliwards into Lake
VOL. I. 5^

130

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

Dweru. The whole of this curious extension of Lake Albert Edward lies
within British territory. A steamer, therefore, placed on Lake x\lliert Edward

105. " THE JIPANGA LOOKS VERY LIKE A MOUNTAIN STREAM IN SCOTLAND "

would he able to visit a great deal of valuable territory all round about
Ruwenzori.

To the north-east of Lake Albert Edward also lie certain small crater
lakes, nearly at the same level, but separated from Albert Edward or the
Uweru by strips of rocky land varying in width from a few hundred yards
to a few miles. These lakes are jn-obably extensions of Lake Albert Edward
filling up old volcanic craters. They have become very saline. In some
cases the water has almost entirely disappeared, leaving a smooth floor of
salt mud. In the case of little Lake Katwe, which is close to the Congo

AND THE NILE

]:^,1

Free State boundary, tlie water is intensely salt, and f'arni>lics win-n
evaporated a salt of considerable commercial value. The pliotogia])ii
which is given here represents a corner of this lake, showing the abrupt
•edge of the crater and the banks of mud which the natives ha\e made to

Io6. P.l.yjhlMS ON THE DUKRA UIVKU

enclose, for evaporation purposes, the shallow water near the shore. This salt
lake of Katwe is certainly a very remarkable sight, seen from the heights

182

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

above. The water is of glassy stillness, and reflects the surrounding coasts like
a mirror, but like a pink mirror. The water, in fact, has an almost carmine
tinge, and the olijects reflected in it are. in their shadows, blood-red.

It is difficult to under-statid how previous travellers could have failed
to notice that the narrow strait of water, generally called by the natives

107. IX THE JIPANG.V KOREST, TOKO

" Kafuru," connecting T^ake Dweru with Albert Edward was not — as has
been depicted hitherto on most maps — a broad lake-like piece of water,
but, on the contrary, a narrow and winding channel between rather high^
sloping banks or cliffs, which would always confine the water within its
present limits. Moreover, the lake, which lies in Southern Toro, and is
connected with Albert Edward by this river-like channel,* is not and
* This lake is the original Beatrice Gulf, discovered by Stanley in 1875.

AND THE NILE

-I ')•)
1 '>')

never was called " Kiiisainha,"' which name, if it exists at ail, is tlit-
designation of a forgotten village on its banks. The natives call this
sheet of water " Dweru," which simply means " the white," and is a term
applied to Lake Albert Edward and Lake Albert Nyanza l)v the J^>antu-
speaking folk who dwell in the vicinity. "-Kru" is a verv old and wide-

Io8. l.\ THE .Ali'.i.NLA l'Ul;i;.>T, IdUU

Spread Bantu root for " white," and is constantly ap[ilied to large sheets of
water, which of course, seen from a distance, do look white in the natives'
eyes, as no Negro tril^e untouched by European or Arab influence has any
word for blue, but considers light blue to be white and dark blue to be
black. This root "-eru" reappears in Lake Mweru, far to the south, beyond
Tanganyika. INIweru is a very common name given to all the great

134 THE WESTERX PROYIXCE

lakes of Soutli (Viitral Africa in turn hy the Bantu tribes lining their
sliores.

The District of Toro, which, from an administrative point of view, also
includes the British territory of ^Ilioga, to the north of tlie Semliki River,
is not a verv clear] v defined or homogeneou-; country from the native
point of view. It really consists of a bundle of little principalities, which
at the commencement of the British Protectorate were confederated and
made to recognise as supreme chief the king of Toro proper, this being
a small countrv on the east of the Ruwenzori range. The sub-disti'ict of
Kitakwenda (formerly an independent principality), in the south of the
Toro District, i- a very ricli piece of country from an agricultural point of
view, but contains a good many tedious swamps, whicli are not at present
traversed in all directions by causeways, as in Uganda.

Xorth of Kitakwenda one comes to the River ^Ipanga, rather a notable
stream, which rises on the north-eastern flanks of Ruwenzori, and after a
great bend eastwards flows, into Lake Dweru. Yov the first half of its
course the ]M[ianga flows through a dense belt of tropical forest, which
extends south-west from near the frontier of Uganda (not far from the
Albert Nyanza) to the north end of Lake Dweru. In the second part of
its course the ]\Ipanga looks very like a mountain stream in Scotland,
tearing down through a boldly designed country of grassy mountains and
hills with outcrop)s of granite, and with only a few trees in the sheltered
hollows. All this bit of scenery is very picturesque. Along the course
of the Mpanga are handsome acacias growing among the boulders, and
numbers of cycads. This is the only place where, in the course of all my
travels through the L'ganda Protectorate, I have seen a cycad (Encephalartos)
growing. These distant allies of the Coniferce are relics of a bygone order
of vegetation which flourished during the Carboniferous Epoch. They
have fronds like huge, coarse, leathery ferns, and also very like the fronds
of certain palms. These leaves arise from the head of the stem, which
mav be a short trunk or a long, prone, woody growth, recumbent on the
ground. In the middle of the fronds thei'e push up one or more enormous
cones (like gigantic pineapples in shape), outwardly of a greyish green,
with hexagonal seeds oft'ering internally a vivid orange pulp.

The belt of tropical forest stretching north from Lake Dweru towards
Unvoro ^running parallel with the Ruwenzori range, though twenty miles
distant from its foot-hills) is remarkable for its tropical luxuriance. It
lies at an altitude 1,000 feet below that of the Uganda forests, as all this
valley of the Dweru and its feeding rivers forms a loop of the Albertine
depression, which almost encircles the Ruwenzori range. The streams
that cii'culate through this Mpanga forest are probably fed all the year
round bv the meltiusf snows of Ruwenzori. Thev alwavs seem to be full

.^t.J^S. Mi: iJIt!.

■•^^

109. TitE /;oK-iss. V I'Ai.M.

136

THE WE8TERX PIIOYIXCE

and the vegetation on their hanks niight he that of the west coast of
Africa, for it includes the Pandanus, or screw pine, so characteristic of
West African mangrove swamps. These forests of the Dm-ra, of Kibale,
and of the Upper ]Mpanga contain large numbers of chimpanzees, and
it is from these that were obtained the specimens of the Uganda
chimpanzee which we sent to the British Museum. There are also
colobus nionkevs of the common species, and another colobus, which I
took to be new to science, but which apparently has been found by Dr.

no. IX EASTEKX TORO

Peters on the Tana Kiver in East Africa. This monkey has long fur of
reddish grey, with a bright red crown to its head.

These ]Mpanga-Durra forests swarm with butterflies of particularly
gorgeous colours, brilliant even for the tropics. One butterfly, about the
size of the English cabbage-white, is simply pure scarlet all over the
upper surface of the wings. Others are bright ultramarine blue, or pale
blue with fluffy white tails. Others, again, have a divine purple sheen
which in certain lights turns all their markings of black and brown aind
fawn colour to an unbroken violet. There are the usual gorgeous swallow-
tails of black, white, and yellow with ocelli of crimson or dark blue, or
of velvet-black embroidered with shining gold, or scalloped with azure-

AND THE XILE

]:'>7

blue or grass-green. A common species and a large insect has the upper
part of its wings like mother-of-pearl — gleaming and opalescent. But
perhaps the ones that made the most vivid impression on my retina were
those of pure vermilion. These butterflies would hold up the wliole of
the caravan, for they would settle in masses and clusters on the moist
soil of the path, sucking up water from tlie mud ; or the largest and
handsomest covered some putrefying bits of carrion or the faeces of a

III. ON A TOKO RIVEK

leopard with a hundred wings of shimmering colour. Then of course the
long line of porters had to wait whilst butterfly nets descended and the
glorious captures were pinched to death witli trembling fingers and put
securely away in collecting boxes. P'ortunately the masses of butterflies
were so great that these often futile raids on their numbers to secure
specimens for identification made no impression on the flitting thousands,
which really seemed like flowers let loose. So like were many of them
to the white balsams, scarlet iMusscendas, and the blue and purple flowers

138

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

of many kinds, that I
have s\voo[)ed with my
net at an unoffending
shrub to secure nothing
but a battered flower, or
I have passed without
molesting a bush from
which at my approach
all the white and yellow
lilossoms flew away.

A good deal of
Southern Toro is unin-
habited, or at least has
but very few inhabitants,
and there is therefore a n
absence of banana groves
and of cultivated fields,
so that the country has
a wild aspect. This also
means that there is a
good deal of game —
elephants, various ante-
lopes, possibly a lew
buffalo lins^ering still,
and lions. In this part
of the district, where one
has descended to the
Albertine depression and the altitude is not much over 3,000 feet, the
Borassus, or fan palm, appears. Elsewhere this handsome tree is absent
from the Uganda Protectorate, except in Unyoro and in some of the
countries bordering the !N'ile. This may partly be accounted for by the
high altitude that characterises such a large proportion of this territory.
After the abundance of Borassus palms in Nyasaland, East Africa, and
the less forested regions of the Congo, the Niger, and tlie interior of
the west coast, its absence in Uganda strikes the European who has seen
other parts of Africa as unusual.

Eastern and Central Toro are }ierfectly delightful countries, especially
in the sub-district of Mwengi. The road winds round enormous grass-
covered hills of beautiful outline and bracing climate. The scenery is
exactly like that of the Cheviots, with the difference, of course, that the
actual trees belong to tropical species, and that the flowers only offer
superficial resemblances. The grass is not really short, but its surface is

112. A MOUNTAIN STREAM (THE RUIMl)

A Landscape in Western Uganda; shewing flowers of Emilia.

AND THE NILR

i:v.)

so smooth that the hills at a distanco look as thougli they were covered
with close yellow-green turf. Nearer to the frontier of Uganda the country
is more wooded, but is eciually beautiful, large areas of the down-land
in and out of the prt-tty copses and graceful shade-trees being over-
grown with a species of Emilia* which produces innumerable small blossoms
like those of the groundsel in shape, of mauve with a stalk of red. Home
of these hillsides are alternately mauve and green (when grass predominates),
with bright notes of sulphur-yellow^ where a handsome yellow thistle
rears its head among the mauve Emilias. Eastern Toro is verv like
Uganda in its character of alternate hill and swamp. You come to no
running water until you reach the River Mpanga, within a day's march
of Kuwenzori.

Unyoro is a country now of considerably restricted area. Geographically,
and bounded in accordance with race and language, Unyoro really extends
over the northern Districts of Uganda and Toro, but since the conclusion
of the wars waged with
the ex-king of Unyoro.
the southern parts of
that kingdom have been
handed over to Uganda
and Toro. The east-
ern part of Unyoro is
swampy in the stream
valleys, and a little in-
clined to be harsh and
sterile away from the
watercourses. There is,
however, tine scenery
along the Victoria Nile
from its confluence with
tlie Kafu to its descent
into Lake Albert Nyanza.
Especially notable are
the Karuma Falls, where
the river is compressed
into an extraordinarily
narrow space. Down the
centre of Unyoro, run-
ning from north-east to
south-west almost paral lei

* Probably E. integi-i folia.

)S THE BANKS Of THE lUIMI, rKNTUAL TOKO

14.0

THE WESTERX PROVINCE

with the coast of Lake Albert, there are bold heights, risiog perhaps
here and there to altitudes of 6,000 feet, though the average elevation
of Unyoro is quite 1,000 feet below that of Ugauda. Some of these

ii ;, I i: ^ Willi

ML ,-' il III I.

\Ki: AI.UI.l;

hills or mountains are of striking aspect, great wedges of table-land
left standing and isolated. Occasioually, however, these worn-down
fragments are in shape and outline like those rounded posts which were
formerly used to bar the way to vehicles on roads or passages intended
for pedestrians only. Their sides are almost perpendicular, but the top
is rounded. There are also, as in Northern Toro and A^'estern Uganda,
piles of huge boulders and weather-worn crags of naked rock which look
like a Stonehenge in ruins, or the fragments of a building raised by
Cyclopean masons.

In this open country of rocks and grass which is so characteristic of
Central Unyoro, Western Uganda, and Eastern Toro, there are many birds
of prey which find these crags and peaks and inaccessible monoliths
convenient eyries for nesting, while the open countiy enables them to
mark down and seize their prey — anything from a rat to a small antelope.
A common and beautiful object in countries like this is the bateleur eagle,
which is rather a peculiar development of the fish-eagle group, with the
most vivid coloration, perhaps, to be found in any bird of prey. The bateleur
eagle is styled "tailless" in its specific name because the feathers of the
tail are extremely reduced in size, and are completely concealed in the
folded wings when the bird is at rest, while they are merged in outline
with the great secondary quills of the outspread wings when the bird is
soaring. Watching one of these eagles one day sailing in circles above

Baielkuk Eaule striking a young [ackal.

AND THE NILE

1 n

our heads, we saw it suddenly drop to the ground. Ivunning up to
see what it had struck, we found the bird in the characteristic attitude
depicted in the accompanying illustration. It had struck a young jackal,
and was gathering its pinions around it in a semi-circle, partly to screen
its body from counter-attack, partly, no doubt, to jjrevent some other eagle
snatching at the prey.

All along the western aspect of this mountainous ridge that runs through
Unyoro there is more or less dense tropical forest, which, together with
the not far distant Mpanga Forest of Toro (and this again stretches with
few breaks to the south-eastern coasts of Lake Albert Edward), constitutes
a kind of outlying belt of the great Congo Forest that lies on the other side
of the Albertine Kift Valley. These Budonga and Bugoma forests in
Western Unyoro are inhabited by chimpanzees. They are extremely rich
in all the rubber-producing trees and vines which are native to the Uganda
Protectorate, and swarm with elephants bearing exceptionally large tusks.

"■ WH1TE-£AUKL) CUliL'.-^ AMlCLUi'K^. ON XUL NILL

The Eift Valley of Lake Albert recommences in Southern Toro, curls
round the south of Ruwenzori, includes Lake Albert Edward, and then
passes between the edge of tlie Bulega, or Lega, Plateau and the highlands

142

THE WESTERN PROVINCE

bordering the east shore of Lake Albert. It contains, as I have ah-eady
said, forest at the head of Lake Dweru; then a much drier region round
the south end of Euwenzori (where the rivers flowing from the mountain
to the lake have carved for themselves deep, broad, Colorado-like gorges in
the sloping tableland) ; a valley offering park-like scenery of grass and trees
on either side of the Upper Semliki ; and finally it is swept over by a
great tropical forest that overflows from the Congo watershed across the
Semliki almost to the north-western slopes of Euwenzori. North of this
forest a harsher country of salt marsh and grass steppe su[)ervenes. the
marshes thicken, join together, and constitute the south end of Lake
Albert.

The eastern and western shores of this lake are narrow strips of land
immediately overhung by the frowning clift's of the L'nyoro and Bulega
Plateaux. The ground here is so constantly impregnated with salt that
very little vegetation grows beyond euphorbias. The water of the lake
anywhere near the west, east, or south shores is scarcely fit to drink, owing
to the salt it contains, but the Albert Nyanza is full of fish, and swarms
with water-birds and crocodiles. At the north end of the lake, where the
Victoria Nile enters and the Albert Nile leaves, there are many sandbanks,
floating islands of vegetation, and sudd obstructions; and the dangers to

i t

ai4Ji\''^-'*^^

.x^^^m

Il6. MARABOU STORKS OX THE NILE

navigation are added to by the numerous and hostile hippopotamuses.
North of Lake Albert the country is mainly a grassy plain, with few
inhabitants away from the river banks, and vast herds of big game.
Thenceforth down the Nile, except in the rocky gorges of the rapids between

AND THE XILE

lt3

Dufile and Fort Berkeley, there are few trees to l)e seen anvwhere near
the river, though there is rich forest in the valleys of tlie trihutaiv streams.

The ^Nile is broad as far nortli as Dufile, with lake-like windini^s in jiarts,

I.N I 111. :.w.L

of uncertain channel, containing many sandbanks and islands, and floating
masses of grass which look like permanent islands. From Dufile north-west
to Fort Berkeley the river narrows and falls nearly 1,()0() feet in continual
rapids and rushes. The scenery of the gorges between the confluence of
the considerable Eiver Asua and the Lahore Kapids is said by >[r. Lionel
Decle to be one of the finest bits of natural beauty in the Protectorate.
From Fort Berkeley north-west the banks of the river become increasingly
marshy until the eye wearies of papyrus and horizons of white-plumed
reeds. On the banks of the river almost the only for)n of tree is that
fresh-water mangrove, the ambatch (Hermiiiiera eldphroxi/Uni), which has
been already described in connection with the Victoria Nyanza. All along
this section of the Nile the hippopotamuses are a danger and a nuisance.
White-eared cobus antelopes with bold markings of brown and white
frequent the reed brakes, flnormous crocodiles lie on the muddy banks

IM THE WESTERN PROVINCE

amongst a congeries of waterfowl, which are the only objects to please the
traveller's eye. Prominent among>t these are the saddle-billed storks, the
white egrets, the sacred ibises, the pelicans, the marabou storks, and last,
but not least, that remarkable Balamiceps rex, whose beak causes him
to receive from the Sudanese Arabs the name of "Father of a Ship"
(•^ Abu :\Ierkab ").

At some distance from the swampy banks of the Nile — which near
(iondokoro seems to form during the rainy season vast stagnant back-
waters^ — the ground rises from tliat level of between 1,000 and 2,000 feet
which characterises the trough of the Nile Valley from the south end of
Lake Albert to Gondokoro, and stony hills grow into granite mountains
until in the Latuka country elevations of nearly 10,000 feet are reached.
Though the upper part of the Nile Valley is swampy, at some distance
from the banks of the river or its tributaries there is considerable
drought and sterility of soil. The rainfall is uncertain, and the ground
not very retentive of moisture. But in the mountainous land of
Latuka, and in the less mountainous but still lofty Acholi district, there
is a more regular rainfall precipitated on these heights, and the soil lends
itself to a great deal of cultivation. The people keep large flocks and
herds, for which there is excellent grazing. Nevertheless, with the
exception of a few sites in Latuka, none of these lands seem to have the
pleasing aspect in general which is so characteristic of the countries
round the Victoria Nyanza. There is a great deal of coarse grass and
thorny scrub, and not nuich real forest. The hills are often masses of
rock with little vegetation growing on them, and the rivers degenerate
into swamps during the rainy season which support no useful vegetation.
The natives, except in Latuka (where there is a great deal of jNIuham-
madan influence, which has brought Arab costumes), are remarkably nude,
as they are throughout the whole of the Nile region from the northern
frontier of Unyoro to within 200 miles of Khartum.

There is a Nile Negro type represented by the Dinka, Bari, and
Acholi, extending from the western frontiers of Abyssinia to the
Bahr-al-Ghazal, and down through the Central Province almost to the
shore of the Victoria Nyanza, which, independently of any language
connections, has a certain similarity of bodily appearance. Both sexes
tend to considerable stature. They are lean and spare in body, with
heads relatively small, necks long, and legs with powerful thighs, but
singularly lean and lank between the knee and the heel. The shins are
much bowed, and there is hardly any calf to the leg. The German
traveller, Heuglin, wrote about them in the 'sixties thus : " These people
give one the impression that amongst men they hold very much the

Bal^exiceps rex.
(The Whaleheaued Stork.)

AND THE NILE

115

same place which storks or flamingoes occupy with regard to other birds^
Their leisurely long stride over the rushes is only to be compared to that
of the stork. Like marsh-birds, they are accustomed for an hour at a
time to stand motionless on one leg, supporting the other above the
knee." It is curious that the last characteristic extends from the Nyam-
Nyam on the north-west right across the Nile to the Masai and Kavirondo
of the south-east, even though these tribes may inhabit a mountainous
and not a marshy country. The traveller passing through the Acholi,
Bari, and Latuka countries of the Nile Province will constantly see

Il8. SADDLE-BILLED STORKS ON THE NILE

natives standing on one leg on the top of an ant-hill with the foot of the
other leg pressed firmly against the lower part of the standing leg's thigh,
while the man obtains further stability by resting one hand on a long
stick.

The villages in these Nile countries are generally little collections of
huts, with a cattle kraal and places for sheep and goats, the whole
surrounded and protected from wild beasts by a hedge made of the
branches of the thorny acacia. The flounced thatching of these Nilotic
villages is particularly characteristic of the Sudan, and extends from the
west coast of Lake Albert to the vicinity of Khartum, and perhaps thence
westwards into Kordofan and the countries near Lake Chad. It is best
VOL. I. 10

146 THE WESTERN PEOVINCE

illustrated by the illustnition given in Chapter XVIIL, which is taken
from a photograph by INIr. E. N. Buxton.

Many of the Lango or Latuka natives wear the extraordinary head-
dresses of the Siik and Turkana, a bag of plastered, felted hair which
hangs down the back.

These Nile lands are usually the haunts of big game. Thousands of
cobus antelopes of four different species, the bastard hartebeest, or tiang,
the hartebeest, or tetal, Baker's antelope (that northern form of hippo-
tragus which is scarcely distinguishable from the roan antelope), the eland,
the kudu, the bushbuck, and reedbuck are found in large numbers.
There is also the great square-lipped rhinoceros— the so-called "white
rhiuoceros," which was at one time thought to be restricted to the
countries south of the Zambezi. There are large numbers of elephants,
and the northern form of giraffe. The buffalo apparently belongs to the
Central African variety, which differs from the Cape form Iw a lesser
development of the frontal boss, and horns that are longer and slightly
more similar in shape to those of the Indian buffalo. Lions, leopards,
cheetahs, hunting-dogs, spotted hy?enas, and jackals make up the list of
the principal beasts of prey.

The general aspect of this country east of the Nile and west of
Turkana, in flora as in fauna, is very East African, resembling very much
German East Africa and Northern Nyasaland, differing thus from tlie
regions of the Eudolf Valley and Southern Abyssinia, which, together
with Galaland and Somaliland, make, as regards their flora and fauna,
rather a separate province by themselves ; while, on the other hand, there
are few or none of the west coast affinities which stretch right across
the more southern parts of the Uganda Protectorate to the verge of
Mount Elgon.

These countries of the Nile are terribly ravaged by locusts from time
to time, which appear to come from the desert regions to the north. It
is the red locust of Northern Africa (PachytyhiS niigratorioides). These
locust invasions stretch right up the Nile, past Lake Albert, into Toro and
Ankole, and across Uganda to the vicinity of Elgon. In the rich vegeta-
tion of Uganda south of the Acholi country the locusts cannot completely
ruin the crops and bring about famines, as they do in the more arid
countries east of the Nile. Nevertheless, it is a grim and repulsive
spectacle to find oneself in the middle of a locust swarm. You may not
be thinking anything of the kind, and be riding through a charming
country, the trees in rich foliage, and perhaps lit up with bright flowers,
the birds singing and the sun shining. Far away in the distance on the
horizon are low, ragged clouds of a copper colour, which the heedless
traveller takes to be either strangely coloured cloudlets or the smoke of

AND THE NILE

] [■

bush fires, (iradually, however, these clouds grow and spread out into the
sky until they are seen to he composed of millions of locusts. The
obscurity of a yellow London fog begins to tinge the landscape, sucking
up all its brightness. Looking into the sky, the eye sees nothing but
myriads of locusts diminishing in perspective from a hideous object three
inches long just above one's nose to copper-coloured pin-points, and then
to a copper-coloured haze. It is sickening to have to ride throu<yh these

4-— I -^

•whizzing millions. They settle on your hair, on your hands, on your
back, and I personally feel an inclination to vomit as I look at their
monstrous horse-heads with the oblong, unintelligent eyes, and when I
feel in contact with my skin the scratchy hooks and spurs of the long
limbs. A disagreeable smell also accompanies these jostled millions of
gluttonous insects. After a while the copper atmosphere may thin until
at last the lilue sky and sunshine appear again. The flight of locusts
Avill now have settled on all the trees and herbage in the vicinity. It
would seem as though some god had peppered all this beautiful vegetation
■with a sad reddish grey substance. So closely do the locusts on hare
branches resemble dry seed pods or withered leaf fshoots that you often
take them to be such until, at your approach, hundreds of them swoop
from the tree and bang into your face, leaving the poor stripped branches
bare of any leaf or flower.

These Nile countries are farther ravaged annually during the i)rotracted
-dry season by bush fires. These may be started fifty times in a
century by lightning setting fire to the stump .of a tree, and spreading

148

THE AVESTERN PROVINCE

the ignition thus to the grass; hut hy far the most normal cause is the
band of man. The native feels ahnost as strongly as we do the curse of
the long grass which, during the rainy season, makes travel so difficult
and conceals so much of the ground. As soon as the grass is withered
by the commencement of the drought it is set fire to, and these grass
fires, sweeping over wide plains, burn up all the vegetation they encounter.
They thus make it impossible for large trees to subsist in unsheltered
places. i^crubby trachylobinras, bauhinias, proteas, and such-like gnarled

120. SUDD ON THE NILE

and twisted trees can apparently stand an annual singeing without dying ,-
but any tree of handsome apjjearance must of course be killed the first
year and burnt the second. The bush fire drives before it big and small
game, the elephant and the rat, often into the pitfalls of the natives;
but once removed from the scare of the flames, the game will soon return
eagerly to the burnt districts, knowing that in a few weeks' time tender
green grass will show itself above the blackened ground.

The Nileland of to-day which is included within the Uganda Protec-
torate is much of it in sad contrast with its condition during Sir Samuel
Baker's government of the Sudan, and even during the silver age of

AND THE XILE

119

Em ID, First came tlie invasion of the Dervishes, following on the Mahdi's
revolt, and these Dervishes carried fire and sword up the Nile, thouf^li
they could not venture far from its banks. Then came that awful out-
break of rinderpest of some fifteen years ago. This destroyed the cattle
of the Kari, and, deprived of their cattle, they, not being agriculturists,
sickened and died in numbers. The Dervishes destroyed Emin's stations

lATlNG ISLANDS ANM) WATEK-LILIES ON THI

and did not continue the cultivation he had begun. The land, therefore,
near the Nile is now very desolate, though rapidly recovering under the
influence of constant steamer coninumication with Khartum and the
trading intercourse with Kgypt which has followed on the cutting of
the sudd.

The sudd (which should really be spelt " sadd "' *— Scliweiufurth first

* It is an Arabic word pronounced like the "sud" in "soapsuds"; but this is
really a short sound of the vowel '"a" in phonetic spelling.

150 THE WESTEKX PEOVINCE

refers to it as " satt " or " sett " ) is, as most untravelled people now know,
an extraordinarvifloating vegetable obstruction which collects in the waters
of these e([uatorial lakes and rivers where the lake surface is sheltered
from rough winds, and where the current of the river is sluggish.
Papyrus clumps become detached by the action of wind or floods, and,
driven by the breeze into little groups, their roots become united below
the surface [of the water by the accretion of water-weed and other vegetable
substances, so that in time a peaty mass is formed just below the surface
of the water, from which the papyrus continues to grow^ as from a soil.
A long Phragmifes [reed, with flnffy white plumes like pampas grass,
grows out into the shallow water, and builds barriers into the stream
which arrest the floating islands of papyrus ; or this reed may form
floating islands of its own. Papyrus may prosper so much on the floating
islands, composed' mainly of its own roots, that these roots may reach the
thickness of a man's leg, and grow downwards twenty feet below the top
of the floating islands.

The amaranth, or " love-lies-a-bleeding " ; Pistia stratiotes (like a huge
duckweed) ; a certain convolvulus creeper ; and other vegetable items which
drift down-stream all add their mass to the vegetable dam, or by rajiid
growth bind one floating island to another. In some cases the ambatch-
trees (a kind of bean, with orange blossoms) grow steadily out into the
water until the river becomes too deep. They make a stout wooden barrier
which is one of the hardest parts of the sudd to cut through, a water-
thicket with strong roots going down into the mud bottom. The water
of the flooded Nile after the great summer rains rises, carrying this floating
vegetation with it. These dams of a mile and more broad across its surface
do not afford much resistance to the mass of the current, which flows
steadily beneatli them. Occasionally, however, an extra high Nile, combined
with strong southerly winds, may for a time tear away the sudd, especially
near the solid bank. Ou many of the northern creeks of the Victoria
Nyanza, protected from the waves of the open lake, this sudd or vegetable
growth is gradually creating a soil, and filling up the bays with what some
day may be a land 'furface of peat, perhaps afterwards coal.

It is difficult to guess what might have been the outcome of the sudd
growth on the Nile but for the action of European man. The work of
cutting througli this obstruction, which was conducted by Major Malcolm
Peake, R.A., C.jM.U., was one of the most creditable actions which white
civilisation has produced in Africa. The resuhs which should follow on
free navigation between Khartum (now connected with the Mediterranean
by railway and steamers) and the northern frontiers of Uganda will be
of the greatest benefit to the starved and miserable natives of the Nile
bank and the isolated and sickly Europeans who upheld the Uganda

AND THE NILE

]r,l

Administration. Siipposiiig these steps had not been taken, however, and
the sndd had been allowed to accumulate unchecked? Would this in time
have diverted the main channel of the Nile by the creation of a dam ?
The jNIountain Nile could not have wandered far to the east or west of
its present course. Perhaps after a century of sudd, which might have
created a marshy lake in tlie Nile Province of Uganda, the pent-up water
would have broken the dam and flooded tjie low-lving region between
Fashoda and the Bahr-al-(ihazal, which was evidentiv once a huge northern
prototype of tlie \'ictoria Nyanza, where the Nile waters were for some
time stored before thev carved a wav through the Nubian Desert.

122. THE AMBATCH-TREE

CHAPTER V
BUWENZOBI AND ITS SNOIVS

IT may easily be imag-ined that the Special Commissioner from the
moment of his appointment to Uganda had his mental vision con-
centrated on Ruwenzori, that little-known range of snow-mountains in the
extreme west of the Protectorate. Political business, however, of many kinds,
and of more importance to the objects of the mission than geographical
exploration, detained him in countries east of Ruwenzori till the late spring
of 1900. In March and April of that year he had been seriously ill at
Entebbe with blackwater fever, and the medical officer attending him was
of opinion that out of regard for life and health he should leave the
tropical climate of Uganda for a while and see what effect a trip to the
snows would have on an anannic body.

Vigour returned, however, soon after quitting the coast-lands of the
Victoria Nyanza. As we rode through Toro we looked out eagerly for
that faint phantasmagoria of pinkish snow and mauve rock which was to
appear in the heavens after every sunrise. But the great mountain was
in a sulky mood, and it was not until we were only thirty miles from
its base that for one precious five minutes we saw the alternation of snow
and rock limned like the glimpse of another world in the western sky.

Ruwenzori is still the most mysterious and least-known mountain of
Africa. Its existence as a snowy range, or a single snow-peak, was reported
by Stanley on native information as far back as 1875, though, curiously
enough, at that time he does not seem to have attached sufficient
importance to the natives' stories of snow, which he repeats without
comment. Yet he himself stood, in 1875, close to the eastern flank of
this mighty mountain mass, and spent days if not weeks within siglit of
it. The whole time, however, the ujjper regions of the mountain remained
completely veiled in clouds, and Stanley vaguely estimated an altitude of
15,000 feet as the possible climax of this im]jerfectly outlined mass of blue
mountains. All the time Sir Samuel Baker, Gessi Pasha, and other explorers
or officials of the Egyptian Sudan were navigating Albert Nyanza, the snow
summits of Ruwenzori remained obstinately concealed behind banks of clouds.
Sir Samuel Baker was struck with the apparent size of the great mountain

RmVEXZOEI AND 1T8 SNOAVS

15:5

mass which lay to
the south of his
newly discovered
lake, and he gave
it the name of
the Blue ^loun-
tains. W h e n
Stanley reached
the vicinity of
the south-west
corner of t h e
Albert Nyanza in
1887, be got a
sight for the first
time of a snow-
peak, or indica-
tions of a snowy
range of moun-
tain s, to the
south-east of this
position. Ques-
tion i n g the
Bantu-speaking
populations at
some time or other
when in tlie vi-
cinity of this new
discovery, he be-
lieved the most
general native
name for it to be
Ruwenzori. I'n-
fortunately, this
term is nowhere
recognised by the
Tiati\'es. The
nearest approach
to it seems to be,
on Dr. Stuhl-
mann's authority,
the Lukonjo word
Nsoro. This, with

154

EUWENZOUI AND ITS SNOWS

the " Lu-" or " Ku-'' prefix, would be Kunsoro, and it is obvious that Stanley
unconsciously extended the pronunciation into Ruwenzori, In the Nyora
(Urunyoro) language the snowy part of the range is called Enchurru, which
is probably a variant of tlie same root as the Lukonjo Nsoro. It is only
on the authority of Stuhhnann, one of the few really careful observers and
writers who have visited this region, that I give this explanation of the
name Kuwenzori. I have made a careful study myself of the Lukonjo
language,* and the nearest I can get is Ansororo, which with the plural
prefix "esi" (esiansororo) means "snow" or " snows." As a matter of fact,

124. A lUT Of KIWEXZORI, FROM THE SEJILIKI VALLEY OX THE WEST

Ruwenzori is more often called by the Eakonjo who inhabit its southern
half ( )bweruka, and by the Banyoro, who are the native rulers of the country,.
Ebirika. By the Baamba who dwell on the north-western flanks, and whose-
very name means "People of the Heights," it is called Gusia. By the
people speaking corrupt Bantu dialects on the north-eastern edge of the-
Congo Forest it is styled Tiidu. The Baganda call this mountain range
(Tambaragara. The people dwelling to the south of ^Albert Edward Nyanza,,
who speak variants of the widespread Nyoro sjjcech, appear to call the
mountain (xularo. Amidst all this diversity of names, it is perhaps best tO'
retain Stanley's somewhat incorrect version of Kuwenzori, though if only

* Because it comes almost closer than any other tongue (except Lukonde) to the
conditions of the Bantu mother-language, from which all the other dialects diverged.

RUWEXZORI AND TTS SNOWS

]

the spelling of this word could be reduced to Kuu.sori, it would correspond
more closely with one of the native designations.

After my own experience in regard to this mountain I am no longer
surprised that explorers like Stanley in his first visit to these countries,
like Emin Pasha, Sir Samuel Baker, Gessi, and all others who visited
these regions prior to 1887, failed to discover in the Blue Mountains

•5r ■^*Sc-!^5lL<;«V

125. AUTHOR IX " (LIMBING "' COSTUME, CLOTHED TO RESIST COLU OX KUWEXZORI

south of Albert Xyanza what is probably the highest point of the African
continent, and what is certainly the greatest extent of snow and glaciation
in Africa at the present day. We were within sight of Euwenzori for three
months and a half during our investigations of the Western Province of the
Uganda Protectorate and of the adjoining regions of the Congo Free State,
and only six times did we see the snows, except, of course, that period of
a week spent more or less on the snow. And out of all these times when,
in the early morning or late evening, we caught sight of the snow, we

156

UUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

only once saw without intervening cloud tlie whole snowy range. On this
occasion, unfortunately, the photographs taken came out with plenty of
foreground and practically no indication whatever of the snowy panorama
behind ; and the period during which the continuous range of snow was
visible was too short for a sketcli of anv value or accuracy to be made.

120. liUAr.KXAS ox l;UUE.\/.UKl (0,000 FEE'l

The same fate appears to have attended all my predecessors who were
armed with a camera, a pencil, and a notebook, with the exception perhaps
of Dr. Stuhlmann, who in his liook gives us a sketch of the distribution
of snow on the western aspect of the mountain. Even this sketch, however,
is not a complete record of the entire range of snow-peaks. For myself,

RUWENZOm AND ITS SNOWS

ir.7

piecing together as correctly as possible all iny separate sketches and photo-
graplis of each of the ])eaks covered with snow or glaciers which were seen
separately, I have arrived at a result (see p. 154) which may give an
approximately correct re[)resentation of this snowy range as seen from the
east. But this drawing, being intended to show the actual extent of snow,
is taken from an imaginary standpoint to the east-north-east of Kuwenzori,

127. TREE-FERXS ON KUWENZOKI AT 7,000 FEET

which would be of an altitude nearly as high as the range itself. It does
not represent the actual aspect of the mountains from any accessible
point of view to the east of it, because from the lower altitudes of Toro
parts of the snow would be cut off by the intervening heiglits forming
parallel ridges or divergent spurs of the main mass.

Kuwenzoi'i is certain]}-, of all African mountains of my accpiaintance, that

158

RUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

which is the most constantly cloud covered. For a month or more at a
time no glimpse may ever be obtained of the snow. It would appear,
however, that we visited this region at the worst time of the year for my
purpose, and that our expedition would have had much better luck with
regard to seeing the snows during November and December, which are
.said by residents to be the months of the clearest skies.

With regard to the highest point of this range, the selection would
appear to lie between the peaks known to the natives as Kiyanja and
Duwoni. These would be apparently the Semper Berg and Weismann of
Stuhlmann. I must say, however, that I strongly object to christening
the heights of Euwenzori for all time with the names of German worthies
like Kraepelin, Semper, Wei-mann, and Moebius, who are not all of them

128. i\y

N/ORI (7,500 feet)

of world-wide reputation (however much they may be esteemed in. their
own country), and who have had absolutely no connection whatsoever
with Africa or with Africa's highest mountain. The preferable plan would

DuwoM I'eak (Ruwfnzori), at 1">a\vn.

RUWENZOllI AND ITS SXOWS

159

be the searcli in the tirst ])lace for clearly defined and easily pronounced
native names, and in the event of these not being obtainable, to christen
the separate peaks of Kuwenzori with the names of Stanley, Stairs, Plmin,

129. HYPhKIi^C.M AND FEKN6, RCWEXZOKI (I0,000 FEETJ

Bagge, Moore, Elliot, and Dr. Stuhlraann himself — of explorers who have
from time to time contributed their share to the exploration of this
Caucasus of Central Africa.

I am personally convinced that the highest point of Kuwenzori is not
much under 20,000 feet in altitude, and that it will therefore be found
to attain the greatest altitude on the continent of Africa. There must
be nearly thirty miles of almost uninterrupted glaciers along the highest
part of the ridge, and this under the equator must pre-suppose a very
considerable altitude. Apart from which, when, after the most arduous
climb I have ever experienced, I reached my highest point on the flanks
of the snow-range— 14,800 feet— the mountain above me seemed a thing
I had only begun to climb, and towered, so far as I could estimate,

160

RUWENZOEI AND ITS SNOWS

another (1,000 feet into the dark ])lue heavens. Permanent snow, however,
lies as low as 13,000 feet, which also is the lowest point to which any
glacier reaches, so far as my limited investigation extends.

To effect a complete and successful ascent of the highest points of

130. A GIANT GROUNDSEL {.Sf;\/^C/0 JO//\.S/O.V/) AT AN ALTITUDE OF 12,500 FEET

Euwenzori requires as elaborate a preparation as the exploration of the-
Andes or Himalayas. An enormous deal remains to be done in the
exploration of this the most important range of Africa. Hitherto we have
had mere j)eeps at these series of snow-covered heights. The only
Europeans who have as yet topped the snow of Euwenzori are Mr. Bagge-

RUWENZOllI AND 1T8 SXCJWS

1()1

(formerly collector for the Toro District), Messrs. ]\Ioore and Fergussoii,
and myself and mv two companions,* and we have only touched it at one
spot, the head of the .Alubuko A'alley. Ruwenzori is no Kilimanjaro or
Kenya, no single snow-mass. It is a chain of heights like the Caucasus,
with considerable intervals between the jaincipal masses of snow and ice.
The snow-peaks of this range probably extend over a distance of thirty
miles from north to south.

The obstacles which prevented myself and otlier explorers from reaching

r

131. LORl-I.IA STl in M.WM

the highest points of Euwenzori were, firstly, the distances to be traversed
at high altitudes, with a temperature not far off freezing-point ; the
extremely arduous nature of the last part of the climb, where precipitous
walls of rock or ice require an Alpine equipment for their ascent ; the
non-existence of any guides whatever above snow-line; and deficiency in
the means of trans};orting the necessary appliances for shelter and supplies

* W. G. Doggett and Wallis A'ale. Subsequently Messrs. Wylde and "Ward,
of the Uganda Administration, ascended along our route to the snow, and were
stopped by the same obstacles.

VOL. I.

11

162

RUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

of food. Above 13,000
feet it is difficult to see
where shelters could be
formed or tents pitched
which would protect the
explorer from the severe
cold prevailing at night-
time, as the rocks and
glaciers were so pre-
cipitous. Even between
9,000 and 13,000 feet it
is extremely difficult to
find a dry spot on which
to ])iteh a tent or to
build a hut. The ground
above 9,000 feet and up
to the snow level is al-
most everyw4iere either
Imre rock or wet moss,
sodden vegetation into
which one may easily
sink to the knees. This
belt round the mountain
is simply a sponge, over
which it is impossible
to pass dry-shod. Mr.
Bagge, formerly collector
for the Toro District, and
now a sub-commissioner in East Africa, deserves credit for making a rough
corduroy road, with the help of the natives, over this marshy belt
between 9,000 and 13,000 feet; but even he could do little to mitigate
the difficulties of the ascent in many places.

After going nearly all round the base of Ruwenzori, from the north
southwards and back to the north-west, during the months of June, July,
and August, I made arrangements in September to attemjjt the ascent of
the higher snow-peaks by way of the Mubuko Valley. The natives had
informed Mr. Bagge that the Mubuko Valley was the only possible means
of reaching the snow by any ordinary feats of climbing, and it was due
to guides furnished by Mr. Bagge that Messrs. Moore and Fergusson were
enabled to make their partial ascents in this direction. I followed along
the same route. After passing through tropical scenery of the usual
luxuriance to be expected in a well-watered part of Equatorial Africa, I

132. LOBELIA DECKS NI

HUWEXZOiii AM> iT8 SNOWS

103

reached a little ]\inkonjo vilhitre called l^iiliunga, at an altitude of 6,800
feet. From this point a superb view could be obtained up and down the
Muliuko Valley, and one faced a long serrated ridge of densely forested
mountains, which are a very prominent feature on the eastern aspect of
the l\uwenzori range. I'hey look at a distance like a sierra or comb,
which acts as a jealous screen to hide tlie snow-range. As, approaching the
mountain in tliis direction, they serve as the awful portals of the snow —

133. DETAILS OF FLOWERS AND SECTION OF STALK-COLUMN OF LOBELIA DECKhSi

164

RUAVEXZORI AND ITS SNOWS

I call them ;nvfnl l)ecause they are so, rising up precipitously thousands
of feet above the narrow river valley into cloud-land — I venture to call
them the Portal Peaks, and this name will also serve to commemorate
the services of Captain Kaymond Portal, the brother of Sir Gerald Portal,
whose political work in the Toro District, short though it was, has proved
of inestimable benefit to the countrv.

V

134. sj-:.\.cc/o yo//\sro.\'j hung with r.v. . i.n iiix

The following may be a useful summary of the general character of
the vegetation on the slopes of Kuwenzori between 6,000 and 15,000 feet.
At 6,000 feet draca-nas and tree-ferns mingle with -the tropical forest,
A large daisy growing in the grass-land has a strangely northern look.
Buttercups and foiget-me-nots also make their appearance at this altitude,
though they are not alumdant until 7,000 feet is reached; ti'ee-ferns do
not ascend above 7,000 feet. At this altitude the forest begins to lose
its tropical character, and a conifer (Podocarpus) makes its appearance,

EUWENZORI AXD ITS SNOWS

165

and ranges between this height and 10,000 feet. I noticed ou Kuwenzori
no species of juniper, though I have seen junipers on Elgon and all the
eastern heights of the Uganda Protectorate. I do not know if this conifer,
sojcommon in Abyssinia and ou the high mountains of Eastern Africa, is

135. IIOSSES COVERING TRUNKS OF TREE-HEATHS, RUWENZUKl ^ 11,000 FEET)

absent from Kuwenzori. The Podocarpus tree is a handsome object ;
the leaves are much longer than in the yew, so long that they
almost look like the foliage of the eucalyptus. The old leaves are a rich
dark glossy green, and the new leaves a vivid yellow-green, so that the
foliage is full of colour, the more so as the catkins and cones are a lovely
mauve-pink. The Podocarpjus gives out a smell exactly like the English

166

EUWENZOPvI AND ITS SXOAVS

yew. The tree must grow in places to seventy or eighty feet in lieight.
One species of tree-heath begins at 7,000 feet and ascends to 9,000 feet.
An enormous species witli sh'ghtly larger leaflets replaces it at 9.000 feet,

136. j;O.SS COVERING TKEE-TKU.NKS .\T 11,500 FEET

and ascends to 12,900 feet; bamboos begin at 7,000 feet and ascend to
9,000 feet ; proteaceous scrubs begin at 7,500 feet and ascend to 12,000
feet. A species of Hypericum, very like the English St. John's wort, with
yellow flowers, begins at 8,000 feet and ascends to 10.000 feet. At

137. Rl'WEXZORI, 11,500 FEET: LOBELIA STLHLM.I.W! (ilKtiWlNli IN FOUEGKOIM) LIKE

A drac.ena) and tree-heaths

168

EUAVEXZOPvI AXD ITS 8X0AVS

10,000 feet a fine Hypericum, growing as quite a tall tree, makes its
appearance. This has very large flowers, with a calyx that is bright
yellow inside, but vivid crimson on the outer side of the petals. Between
7,000 feet and 9,000 feet the Abyssinian violet grows abundantly,
^loreover, there is a bramble, the flower of which is strangely similar to
that of a wild rose.* This bramble has a large fruit like an English
blackberry. Another liramlile or raspberry has a fruit the size of a
strawberry, but in ap])earance somewhat like a hop. Umbelliferous plants

138. A HOT SPKINU, EASTERN SU^E UF KUWENZOKl, CLOSE TO KLIMI KIVEK, AT 5,500 FEET

like wild carrot or hemlock grow luxuriantly lietween 8,000 and 11.000
feet. A Senecio, or giant groundsel (exactly like Senecio johnstoid of
Kilimanjaro, but, I am informed, a species new to science), commences at
8,500 feet and grows at least as high as altitudes of lo,000 feet.
Haberiaria ground orchises grow from 9,500 to 11,000 feet. A flower
ver}^ like the English " lady's-smock " grows between 8,500 and 12,000
feet; a white flower of the cabbage order grows under cliffs at 12,500 to
13,000 feet.

Perhaps the most remarkable feature in the vegetation of the up[)er

* Jxuhus dorigetti.

170

KUWEXZORI AND ITS 8X0WS

parts; of Knweiizori are the lohelias. These are of two kinds, and are so
utterly distinct one from the other in form that no one but a botanist
would know that the}' were closely related. One of these lobelias, perhaps
offering two separate species,* begins to make its appearance^above 7,000
feet, and continues (or else reappears again in a closely allied form) right
up the mountain to the very verge of the snow, and in places without

140.

A MOST ARDUOUS CLTMB

OUK WAY UP THK

OVER TREE-TRUNKS AT lO.OOO FEET

snow to lo.lXJO feet. This lobelia grows exactly like a dractena. As
the plant shoots upwards the lowest leaves fall off the stem, leaving it
round and smooth, so that when the plant has attained its maturity it
exhibits a large bunch or mop of sword-like leaves at the end of a woody
stem of small diameter, and about twenty feet and over in lieight. From
the middle of the mop of leaves there starts a flower-spike, which may
be as much as three feet in height. This is at the same time very

* One would seem to be L<jheliti stuhlmanni.

141. A ROCK SHKLIER, RUWF.XZOUI (BLAMHA CAMP, II.50O FEET)

172

EUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

slender, and is covered throughout the whole of its length with blossoms
concealed from sight by large green bracts. The blossoms, wlien examined,
are found to be of a greenish white, inclining to red. The other kind
of lobelia {L. (/eckeni) is also found (?) on Mounts Kilimanjaro and Kenya.
Its general a})pearance is best described by the accompanying illustration.

- IT--
142. "a BEAU'J'ii'i 1. s\vAMl■^ i;.\i;h]:.\ " ; ii'I'Ek jiujsuko vallkv at 11,000 feet

It reaches to a total height of about fifteen feet above the ground. The
flower-stalk is sometimes nearly six feet long, and is much t flicker and
larger than the first described lobelia. The green bracts to a great extent
conceal the ultramarine-blue flowers, which grow at right angles to the
stalk, though when the flowers are absolutely mature they reveal for a. day
or two an exquisite shimmering of blue all u[) and down the stalk. These
lobelias, with their aloe-like leaves and strange flower-columns, remind one,

174 HUAVEXZOEI AXD ITS SXOWS

I cannot say why, of monuments in a cemetery. They would certainly be
handsome additions to our ornamental flora. Allusion has already been
made to the Senecios, or giant grounsel, on the upper part of the mountain.
The authorities at Kew state that the specimens we sent home show this
to be a new species, but in outward aspect it scarcely differs from the giant
Senecio which I discovered on Kilimanjaro. Like that plant, it grows to
a height of over twenty feet, and has broad, bright green leaves like a
cabbage, or even in some aspects like a lianana. The flower-stalks grow

144. WATERFALL AT BUAMBA CAMP

above the leafage to the extent of perhaps two feet, and their masses of
flowers are a dull amber-yellow. The plant would be handsome but for
the swollen, gouty stem. Very often, however, all the lower part of it is
exquisitely draped by long fringes of the Usnea lichen, and then it is a
really beautiful object in the landscape.

A description of the upper parts of Euwenzori would not be complete
without an allusion to the extravagant development of mosses on the
tree-trunks between 11,000 and 12,000 feet. This growth of moss is
extraordinarily thick. Perhaps it would give a depth of eighteen inches
before the stem or trunk on which it grows was reached by a probing

RUWEXZOni AXD ITS SXOWS 175

instrument. A portion of ont^".s road up the mountain lips for perlia[ts
two miles over a constant succession of prone tree-trunks. For ages
past tree after tree in this wintrv-looking forest lias fallen from old
age or in storms, to lie prone where it fell, apparently without insects
to turn its wood to powder. On the contrary, this wood becomes hard
like bog-oak, and is covered with this thick growth of moss, liut the
moss makes these tree-trunks most dece[)tive and dangerous to step on,
as it is so lightly attached that it slips away from under the foot, and
the incautious traveller may fall and hurt liimself most cruelly against
the jagged branches of the trees, whicli have been turned to a flinty
hardness. Eat these mosses give one a perfect feast of colour. They
range in tint from lemon-yellow u]) through all the gamut of yellows
and browns to a deep rich red, a red which at times has almost a ]iur})le
tinge. Sometimes the moss is an emerald-green, and the limbs of tht^
same tree may dis].)lay every shade ranging between pur^)le-red and
grass-green, a large proportion of the colours being shades of orange
and yellow. Yet the forests of this cold zone of Kuwenzori at a distance
fuse their tints into rather a dieary tone of drab-green, and the long
streamers of the greenish white Usnea give the vegetation a singularly
dismal aspect. It is, perhaps, at about 9,000 feet that the European
traveller feels most at home, and at that altitirde many of the flowers,
and not a few of the trees and ferns, recall to him the woods of his own
country.

Leopards ascend the mountain to the very verge of the snow, and
we actually found a leopard's footprints in the snow at 13.400 feet. The
tracks of a large serval cat, probably the servaline, were found at
12,500 feet. There are two kinds of hyraxes on Kuwenzori at least, if not
more, and they also ascend to the snow-line. Eats were found up to
13,000 feet. Chameleons were found up to 11,000 feet, and a whitish
moth fluttered about over the snow. A large eagle owl was seen, but
not secured, at an altitude of 13,000 feet; and at this height a common
bird was a kind of starling with a fan-shaped tail, very similar to one
which we saw and obtained at 7,000 feet on ]Mount Elgon. We saw
elephants on Kuwenzori, but not higher than 7,000 feet. Monkeys do
not appear to go above 9,000 feet. A few rats were obtained not far
from the snow-line, and francolin, very partridge-like in appearance, were
met with as high as 13,000 feet.

The rocks in many places are very micaceous. In some of the caverns
which are to be described farther on, the overhanging roof of rock was like
tarnished silver, and had much the appearance of the beautiful aluminium
ceiling to be seen at Sir Alma Tadema's house at St. .Tolnrs Wood. A
good deal of granite crops out between 10,000 and 11,000 feet. Many

176

EUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

of the stream valleys exhibit rocks that are almost jet black in colour,
with wliite veins of ([uartz.

Among the volcanic foot-liills of Kuwenzori which fringe the northern
and eastern borders of the mountain range, there are so many crater
lakes that I have hardly been able to keep account of the number
visited or seen. All of these, with one exception (so far as my knowledge

145. VIEW OF KlYANJA PEAK FROM UPPER MUBUKO VALI.KV AT 11,300 FEET

goes), are not situated at altitudes much above 5.000 feet. But there
is one crater lake which must be at an altitude of 8,000 feet, and which
is situated on the southern side of the Mubuko Valley. This is the highest
and nearest to the snow of any obvious evidence of former volcanic action
which I have encountered on Euwenzori.* I am quite disposed to agree
with Mr, Scott-Elliot, who I think was the first to point out that, although

* I have visited two of the seven or eight hot spvigns foiuid on the lower slopes
of Kuwenzori, between 6,000 and 4,000 feet.

KlVANIA PkaK or KlWINZOKI, FROM TMK MlHlKn V'aLLFY : M 1 1>-DAY.

^ ^^

VOL. I.

12

178

HUWENZOEI AND ITS SXOWS

Ruwenzori exhibits traces of volcanic activity on its outskirts, it is not,
as a mountain range/] of volcanic origin like Kenya or Kilimanjaro.

On'the eastern side of the mountain, and for aught I know on the western

147. " BLACKBERKIES OX RUWEXZORI " : THE FKIIT OF XUBUS DOGGETTl, 12,500 FEET

side likewise, pern:anent snow lies at the relatively low altitude of 13,000
feet. After heavy showers of rain in the lowlands, freshly fallen snow may
be seen on the lower heights of Kuwenzori at 11,000 and 12,000 feet, but
it does not lie very long ; whereas snow lies in patches more or less

180

EUWENZOEI AND ITS SNOWS

permanently at 13,000 feet. The lowest point of the lowest glacier that
we visited was 13,200 feet in altitude, but evidence of glacial action in

149. THE BASE OF THE iMUBUKO GLACIER (l3,000 FEET)

the valleys extended 3,000 feet lower. The thunderstorms which are of
such frequent occurrence along the lower slopes of Euwenzori do not
appear to mount higher than 9,000 feet. Above that altitude rain falls

182 RUWENZOKI AND ITS SNOWS

finely — not in heavy drops — but every day. Eain often turns to hail,
sleet, or snow at 13,000 feet.

From Bihunga, the last permanent habitation of man in the Mubuko
Valley (the exact altitude of which was 6,858 feet *), we ascended along a
native path to a camping-place underneath a huge rock at the head of the
left branch of tlie Mubuko Valley. The altitude here by boiling-point was
9,702 feet.f This was the first of the extraordinary series of rock shelters
whicli served as camping-places to Em'opeans and natives ascending the
mountain by means of the Mubuko Valley. The camping-places consist
of small areas of absolutely dry soil under an over-reaching cliff of micaceous
rock. Two yards, three yards, four yards away from the shelter of the
overhanging ledge the ground is an impassable bog. Immediately under
the arch it is bone-dry. However convenient, I doubt if there is permanent
safety under these rock shelters, since it would seem as though from time
to time fragments of micaceous rocks detached themselves from the over-
hanging roof. In this way these cliffs are probably crumbling away by
degrees at their base, infiltration of water from the bogs above no doubt
being the cause. PVom this second camp, which was called by the natives
Kichuchu, we had a most arduous climb, sometimes dragging our bodies
up the bed of a small torrent, and being nearly drowned in the process.
For miles we walked, as I have already said, along slippery tree-trunks,
often unable to see through the crevices any solid ground beneath us.

At length we reached the edge of the upper valley of the Mubuko
River, and found for a couple of miles or more a charming tract of fiat
country like a beautiful swampy garden. Here, too, we found the largest
of these rock-camps under huge, overhanging cliffs. This other camp was
called by the natives Buamba, which really means " up above," ^'the height"
par excellence. The altitude of Baamba camp was 11,447 feet.i The
next day we climbed for a little under two hoars, and reached the last of
the rock shelters at an altitude of ahout 12,500 feet. From or near here
we obtained suddenly a splendid view of the snows of Ruwenzori. Looking
up the main Mubuko Valley, we saw a fine panorama of snow-fields and
glaciers ; but westwards appeared to be the highest point of Kuvvenzori, a
huge black knob rising out of the snow-fields of unruffled purity and dazzling
white. From the last of the rock shelters we directed our steps towards
where the ascent of the snow-range seemed most practicable, namely, the
Mubuko glacier. The altitude of the base of this glacier was 13,191
feet.g We found it was impossible to climb higher in this direction

* Water boiled at 200"1° Fahr. ; temperature, 58°.

t Water boiled at 195"1'' Fahr.; tem])erature, 52°.

X ^^'ater boiled at 192'2° Fahr. ; temperature, 47°.

§ Water boiled at 189'3° Fahr. ; temjjerature, 47°.

184. RUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

without more elaborate preparations than we had made in the way of ropes
and axes, so we returned for a while to Kuamba camp to rest and botanise.

Next day, instead of attempting the ascent by way of the Mubuko
glacier, we followed probably the same route as Mr. I\Ioore, and tried to
ascend the mountain more or less midway between the Mubuko glacier
and the highest })eak — the peak which the natives call Kiyanja. In this
wav, after difiticulties of the most exhausting nature and in the middle
of a snowstorm, we reached an altitude of 14,828 feet,* and here we were
oblio-ed to stop. ^ly two European companions (Doggett and Vale) were
fairly exhausted with the cold, and perhaps with a touch of mountain
sickness. Still more serious, our native Bakonjo guides and our Swahili
porters w'ere positively ill with the cold, in spite of our having clothed
them in warm jerseys, coats, and blankets. The condition of some of the
natives, in fact, was so bad that I am sorry to say one of them eventually
died of pneumonia, and all were so ill that I dared not stop any longer
at this altitude under such inclement conditions. We therefore returned
once more to camp.

The next attempt we made at an ascent was again in the direction
of the Mubuko glacier. We were confronted here by a wall of rock about
seven feet in height, which at first seemed difficult to ascend, until the
idea occurred to me of using my very tall Sudanese orderly as a human
ladder. Doggett mounted on his shoulders, and managed to scramble
over the ledge above. He then fastened a rope on boulders, and we each
dragged ourselves up. After this we had to pass through a natural tunnel
in the rock, which had been bored by a stream flowing from the glacier.
As the tunnel was partly filled up by the stream in question, which was
icv cold, this passage was very disagreeable. By one means or another
we reached an altitude of 13,534 feet f on this glacier, and here our further
progress was barred by walls of ice at least fifty feet in height, and
absolutely precipitous. We did a good deal of photographing here, but
on our descent Doggett became so ill from the cold and the wetting with
the icy water, that we were obliged to return to our permanent camp.
The next day I made another abortive attem})t to ascend the mountain,
but illness was beginning to tell on all my companions, black and white,
and I was afraid, if I did not descend to a warmer climate, there would
be no one but myself left to tell the tale. Pneumonia seemed to afflict
many of the men, and the disease made such ra[»id progress that the patient
was almost beyond recovery before attempts could be made to arrest the
malady. In this way we lost the best of our native guides, to my very
great regret, and two of our Swahili porters. For myself, I can only say

* Water boiled at 186'6° Fahr. ; tenii)erature, 40".
t Water boiled at 188T)° Fahr. ; temiierature, 37".

186

RUWENZORI AND ITS SNOWS

that the short stay amid the ice and snow of Kuwenzori seemed to do my
health as much good as if I had been to England.

The whole time of onr stay on Euwenzori the weather was, with very
few and brief exceptions, atrocious. It rained constantly, and at high
altitudes it snowed and hailed. The arrival of clouds had about it some-
thing positively alarming to our black followers and to the two Europeans
accompanying me, who had had no previous experience in mountaineering.
The clouds would come rushing up the Mubuko Valley like express trains

153. THK ICE MELTING : SOURCE OF THE MUBUKO KIVER (l3,534 FEET

one after the otlier, and they did not appear as vague mists, but as bodies
of singular definiteness of outline which constantly seized and euveloped
you as in a thick blanket. You might be sitting for a few minutes in
brilliant, welcome sunshine, looking at the blazing white snow-fields and
the minutest detail of the rocks and boulders. Suddenly an awful greyish
white mass would come rushing at you, and everything would be blotted
out. Even your com] lan ions four or five yards off were scarcely visible.
Although I told myself there was no danger in this, the effect on the
spirits was singularly depressing and alarming, especially as this occurred

Galuris.v yoii.\sTo.\/ ; the Tlkacu of Ruwenzuri.

EUWEXZORI AND ITS SXOWS

187

ill dangerous hits of cliiiil)iiig. Sometimes a thick bank of cloud would
enfold us for a quarter of an liour.

154. THE UPPER PART OF THE MUBIKO GLACIER NEAK THE SOUTHEKX
BASE OF DUWOXI PEAK

On neither side of the flanks of Euwenzori, except perhaps ou ithe
extreme north-west corner, do the tropical forests quite attain the same
extravagant development of vegetation as the never-to-be-forgotten Cougo

188

RUWENZOEI AND ITS SNOWS

or Uganda forests. But the}' contain some handsome trees, not a few of
which are remarkable for the brilliant colom* of their flowers. The forests
in the tropical zone round Ruwenzori betw^een 4,000 and 7,000 feet are
frequented bj' a rare species of colobus monkey, new to science, which
has long black hair with a very small proportion of white ; and by what
is probably the most beautiful species of the turacos in regard to colora-
tion. This bird (Gallirex), which Doggett and myself had the good fortune
to discover, has a coloration which includes such tints as pure emerald-
green, pale grass-green, deep ultramarine-blue, mother-of-pearl, crimson,

155-

AMI HOT Sl'in.Ni.. N(il;TH-\VEST FLANKS OF RUWEXZORI
(THE XATIVES ABE BAAMBA)

purple, and rose colour ! In the lower part of these forests, on the edge
of the more cultivated country, a bird very commonly seen is the crimson-
breasted barbet. When a number of these scarlet and blue-black birds
with large ivory-coloured beaks have collected together on the bare branches
of a tree or shrub, they are very noticeable.* In these Euwenzori forests
there are extraordinary chameleons of rather large size, which develop
horns or grotesque scaly projections like enormous noses. These will
be found illustrated in the chapter dealing with zoology.

* See coloured illustration facing p. 18'^.

Crimson breasted Barbets.

RUWENZOm AND ITS SXOWS 189-

The villages of the Bakoiiji) and Baamba are often very prettily
perched on the siiniinits of subsidiary su})ports of the mountain at
altitudes of 6,000 or 7,000 feet. These little collections of neat huts,
made of banana leaves, are ensconced in sheltered nooks on ledges and
platforms overhanging great precipices. These people dwell no higher
than the banana will flourisli. tliough in their hunting expeditions after
the hyrax, whose flesh they love, they go sometimes to the verge of the
snow. They are very fond of smoking hemp or tobacco, but especially
hemp, in pipes made of the long stem of a banana frond. These people
wear little or nothing in the way of clothing when in their homes. They
start for their excursions towards the snow-line shielded at most by capes
of hyrax or monkey fur. When these men were with me about the
snow and ice, I supplied them with blankets, but they would often leave
these behind in the rock shelters where we were camped sooner than
have the bother of carrying them.

It is curious that the southern prolongation of the Ruwenzori range
towards Lake Albert Edward should exhibit a certain tendency to drought
and a relatively poorer vegetation, with a greater proportion of bare rock,
than the other parts of tlie mountain east, west, and north, whereon
a rainfall of over 100 inches a year is precipitated. At the base of
these southern spurs of Euwenzori the country has quite a parched and
sterile aspect. This is something like, though not so plainly marked, the
contrast between the south side and the north side of Kilimanjaro, though
in the case of the last-named mountain it is the south side which is
endowed with a heavy rainfall and abundant vegetation.

The country round the base of Ruwenzori is very often subject to
earthquake shocks. These are sometimes sevei'e enough to lay buildings
of wattle and daub in ruins. Hot springs, as I have already mentioned,
are found at intervals all round the lower parts of the mountain, and
the chain of extinct craters with crater lakes in them extends almost
unbroken from the north-western part of Ankole to the north end of
Ruwenzori, along the foot-hills. Some of these crater lakes of East and
North Toro are as beautiful as those I have described in Ankole, and
contain small fish and numbers of duck and grebe, the large-crested
grebe, as well as the small South African dabchick.

CHAPTER Yl
THE SE3ILIKI VAZLEY AND THE CONGO FOB EST

THE present boundary between the Congo Free t^tate and the Uganda
Protectorate is somewhat unsatisfactory, as it does not coincide with
the natural features of the country. It consists of the thirtieth degree
of east longitude from the vicinity of the ■Nlfumbiro mountains to the
south of Lake Albert Edward, and thence northwards past the western
flanks of the Ruwenzori range, and across the Semliki River to the water-
parting between the Nile and Congo systems on the Bulega heights to
the north of the Semliki. Thence the boundary is carried north-west
along this line of water-parting to Mahagi, on the north-west corner of
the Albert Nyanza. Why the course of the Semliki River from Lake
i\lbert Edward to some point near the Albert Nyanza was not chosen
as the boundary over part of this line instead of a degree of longitude,
it is difficult to understand. The result is, however, that both sides
of the Tapper Semliki are within the Congo Free State, while both sides of
the northern half of the Semliki belong to Great Britain.

The traveller who desires to reach tlie north-eastern portion of the
Congo Free State from Uganda at the present day would almost certainly
follow the safe and fairly well-made road which runs from Fort Portal to
the south end of Ruwenzori, and thence turns north-westwards to the ferry
of the Semliki River, opposite Fort ^Mbeni. This is preferable, as far as
convenience of travel is concerned, to journeying round the north end of
Ruwenzori and through the dense, hot Semliki Forest, which stretches
between the Bulega heights and the north-western flanks of the Ruwenzori
range. I have already explained that any one reaching the south end of
Ruwenzori is surprised to meet with a certain amount of aridity in the
landscape, to encounter streams flowing often with a mere trickle, and
scanty grass and poor vegetation, generally of a burnt-up aspect, in between
the watercourses. This somewhat desert appearance may be partially due
to the extent to which the soil is impregnated with salt. But this dry
East African appearance of the landscape and flora continues along the
north coast of the Albert Edward Nyanza and over the southern half of

190

THE SEMLTKI VALLEY AND CONGO EOllEST 191

the Semliki Valley, on both sides of the stream, and is carried thence
south-westwards in a great loop over high mountain ranges to within
sight of Tanganyika.

The great Congo Forest, which, l^efore the invasion of the Arabs and
the destruction of the trees for making plantations, extended almost up
to the western shores of Lake Tanganyika, leaves the vicinity of the
north end of that lake, and retreats in a north-westerly direction well
into the Congo basin; then after desci'ibing a curve, the limit of th(-
forest begins to extend towards the north-east, and, leaving this loop of
high and dry country west of Lake Albert Edward untouched, it descends
to the Semliki Kiver at the point where Fort ."\lbeni is situated, or pretty
nearly in the middle of the Semliki's course between Albert Edward and
Albert Nyanza. A little
lower down the stream
than the station of Fort
Mbeni, the forest crosses
the Semliki River, and
extends to the north-
western flanks of Kuwen-
zori. There is a slight
dip at the back of Fort
Mbeni in the higlilands,
west of the Semliki Kiver,
which constitute the
■water - parting between
the systems of tlie Congo
and the Nile. The Congo
Forest pours over this
lowering of the mountain
ridge into the valley of
the Semliki. Some dis-
tance to the north of
Fort Mbeni, however, the
heights of the Congo
watershed soar to alti-
tudes of over 8,000 feet
in the so-called Bulega
country, and the forest
•does not climb to this
lofty plateau, which re-
mains a grass-land, and
■ex[)ands northwards (west

156. A BOK.ISSUS PALM, SEMLIKI VALLEY

192 THE SEMLIKI VALLEY

of Lake Nvanza) to the savannah conntrv along the west side of the
White Nile.

The southern half of the Seniliki A'alley lies at an average altitude of
just over 3,000 feet. The Semliki Kiver, in its middle course through the
forest regions, has a series of falls and rapids which brings its waters
down to the level of Lake Albert (2,170 feet). The upper part of the
Semliki Valley is a fine-looking country of park-like aspect, containing
very few inhabitants and a good deal of big game. The ground of the
valley is by no means flat, but much broken with low ranges of hills and
curious hollows, gullies, and gorges. The grass is long, but not generally
the coarse elephant grass that is such a burden to humanity in the well-
watered parts of East and Central Africa. This park-like scenery along
the Upper Semliki is picturesquely dotted with fine Borassus fan palms
and umbrageous acacias, looking sometimes almost like cedars in their
growth, with short red trunks and great flat masses of dark green foliage.
The waterbuck inhaliiting all this region carry exceptionally fine horns,
and constitute a marked and beautiful feature, moving about in large
numbers, and looking singularlv like red deer. Both males and females
of this variety tend to considerable redness of coat, the male having
portions of the head and chest quite a bright chestnut. There are still a
few buffalo of the South African type lingering on the Upper Semliki.
It is curious, however, that the instant you enter the Congo Forest you
meet with other buffalo of the most exaggerated Congo type — that is to
say, small in size, covered with thin red hair, and carrying small horns,
which are little more than a mo>t exaggerated frontal boss with a hook-
like horn growing out of it. Zebras are also found on the Upper Semliki
and to the west of Lake Albert Edward — that is to say, to the very verge
of the Congo Forest. Large griftbn and eared (Otor/yps) vultures haunt
this grass country of the Lpper Semliki, thereby adding to its East
African appearance. As is probably known to most of my readers, the
forest regions of Africa are, to a great extent, without vultures, the only
species of vulture ever found in them being the small dark brown
Xecrosyrtes, familiar to any one who has visited Sierra Leone, in which
town it is a great scavenger.

The Upper Semliki is not even bordered with many trees other than
a few wild date palms and acacias. It flows for the most part a broad,
white ribbon through a grassy country. There are but few human beings
inhabiting this region at the present time. What there are are mainly
Eakonjo, the same peo})le who inhabit the western, southern, and south-
eastern flanks of Kuwenzori up to an altitude of 7,000 feet ; and the
Banande, who seem to be usually the people of the lowlands, as contrasted
with the Eakonjo, the people of the highlands. The Eakonjo extend in

yft

HkAI) of a SEMI.IKI WaI KKHrCK {C0/i(\S r>EF.ISS.4)

AND THE CONGO EOREST

195

their range over the
higli mountains to
the west of J>ake
Albert Edward. They
are, as a rule, a
personable lot of
negroes with not
particularly ugly
features, very like
the better - looking
Atonga of the west
coast of Lake Nyasa.
But the Banande are
of exceedingly low
appearance, and con-
stitute the ape-like
negroes to which
reference will be
made in the chapter
on anthropology.
The Banande do not
appear to have any
separate tribal
organisation, but
rather attach them-
selves to the Bakonjo
villages on one side
of the 8eniliki,and to
the Babira settlements in the Semliki forests. They are generally charac-
terised by their stumpy legs, long arms, protruding brow ridges, and a marked
degree of prognathism. Very often their skin is of a dirty yellow-brown.

A small Belgian station has recently been established on Lake Albert
Edward at the mouth of the Nyamukasa Kiver, near to Fort George on
the British side ; but at the time of my journey into this part of the Congo
Free State there was no station nearer to the British frontier than Karimi,
a large village of the Bakonjo, not far from the Semliki Biver. At Karimi
some fairly good buildings had been erected for the accommodation of
Europeans, and there was a garrison of negro soldiers (Manyema) under
a negro non-commissioned officer. These soldiers were very smartly dressed
in a becoming uniform of blue and red. They drilled in French, with
the same quaint travesty of the language as mav be noticed amongst Sikhs
and other natives of India who drill in what they believe to be English.
VOL. I. 13

157. WATEKBUCK OF UPPEK

194

THE SEMLIKI VALLEY

From Karimi north-westwards a consideralile journey of some thirty
miles has still to be made before the traveller comes to the ferry of the
Semliki Iviver, which is opposite Fort ^Nlheni. A mile or so before he
reaches this ferry he arrives at a broad, well-made road with a splendid
avenue of useful trees and bananas. He sees good, substantial buildings
for the housing of troops and workers, or merely as the dwellings of natives
who have gathered round the station. The passage of the Semliki is made
at present in a very large dug-out canoe with a broad flat bottom, which
is perfectly steady and safe, and is big enough to transport cattle or horses.
The stream of the Semliki is here very swift, and shortlv afterwards to

158. THE SEMLIKI RIVER OPPOSITE FORT MliKXI

the north descends in rapids. The river swarms with crocodiles, and
therefore these large canoes are necessary to ferry men and live-stock across,
the river also being far too deep to wade in any case. Arrived at the
opposite bank, a steep climb up a broad road has to be made before the
fort is reached, and here one is fairly taken aback at the beautiful situation
and the excellent houses. I am afraid there is at the present moment
nothing so good to show in the Uganda Protectorate in the way of well-
built European houses or barracks for native troops and workers. The native
villages which cluster round this centre are also remarkably tidy, and the
liouses are well-built and com fort al:)le.

Fort Mbeni is a most picturesque place. In clear days it has a glorious

AND THE CONGO FOREST

195

view across the Seinliki to tlie snows and glaciers of Hinvt'iizori. At tlie
time of my visit, however, this great range remained obstinately concealed
behind its cloud-veil. ]5ut I was even more struck witb the splendid land-
scapes to be seen to the south, where the eye roved over the beautiful
mountains to the west of Lake Albert Edward. These a])peared to me to
tower into the sky to altitudes not far short of 10, 000 feet, but I was
.assured by the Belgians that the atmospheric effects at times were most
deceptive, and that the greatest altitude attained by the highest of these
peaks was perhaps not more than (5,000 feet above sea level, or, in other

159. THE MIDDLE SEMLIKI NEAK THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF THE GREAT
SEMLIKI (COXGO) FOREST

words, not more than 3,000 feet above the plain they dominated. There
was such variety in the way in which they had been sculptured by the
hand of Nature. Crags and blue ])recipices would tower above emerald-
o^reen lawns. Forests nestled against red cliffs which the atmosphere
turned to mauve-pink in colour. Tlie glint of cascades could be seen
marking the precipitous descent of rivers. Var up in the southern sky
lowering clouds turned distant sierras to an inky pvu-ple. These regions
from all accounts will prove a most valuable sanatorium for the north-
eastern part of the Congo Free State.

196 THE SEMLIKI VALLEY

Mbeni is thought to be a fairly healthy station, though its altitude
above sea level is not more than 3,500 feet. Two miles to the west of
it the great Congo Forest begins. It was at Mbeni, as will be related in
Chapter XII., that we first got on the track of the okapi. Consequently I
became very eager to enter the Congo Forest and commence the search
for this animal. I desired also to reinstate a number of Congo Pygmies
in their homes, and see what these homes were like. A few months
before my arrival an enterprising German had come to Fort Mbeni from
Uganda, and had asked permission to recruit a number of Dwarfs to be
shown by him at the Paris Exhibition. The Belgian oflfieer in charge of
Mbeni did not think this proposal would be favourably received liy the
Governor of the Province, because it was believed that a considerable
mortality would take place amongst these little people if they were
removed from their native forests. He therefore informed the German
that it would probably be impossible to grant his request, though the
matter would be referred to the Governor for decision. The German
agent did not press the matter in conversation, but asked for guides to take
him to the Dwarf settlements in the forest at the back of Fort Mbeni
so that he might study the habits and customs of these people. Guides
were given to him, together with a few native soldiers to form his escort.

In this way he reached the village of a Mukonjo chief called
Lupcinzula, who was a great friend of the Dwarfs and able to get in-
contact with them. The German entered into friendly relations with the
Dwarfs, giving them beads and cloth and tobacco, and after a day or two
he pro})Osed that large numbers of them should assemble at an Mbuba
village, some distance to the north, in the forest. On some pretext he
sent his guides and escort back to Mbeni, saying that he would return
unaccom[)anied through the forest to British territory. Having assembled
the Dwarfs in large numbers, he suddenly surrounded them with his
Swahili porters and askaris and informed them that they were his-
prisoners and woiild liave to proceed with him to Uganda. Many of the
Pygmies succeeded in running away, but nineteen were captured. With
these he started (I must say with considerable pluck) to thread his way
through the appallingly dense forest down to the Sendiki River, and
across that river to the District of Toro. He lost many of his Dwarfs on
the way, but eventually arrived in Uganda with nine. ^leantime, the
Belgian authorities, hearing of his unlawful action, had written to us at
Entebbe. We therefore caused tlie German in question to be arrested,
and took from him the Dwarfs, whom I afterwards escorted to the Congo-
Free State to be repatriated.

Accompanied by Mr. Karl Eriksson, of the Congo Free State service,
and a small escort of Manyema soldiers, I started with my caravan for

AND THE CONGO FOREST

197

the small village of Lui);hizula, whit-ji was about ten miles to the west of
INIbeiii, and in the forest. The climb to this village was a very arduous
one, and its altitude must liave been not far off 5,000 feet, situated on
the more broken, forest-covered dip of the plateau ridge between the
heights of ]julega on the north and the Albert Edward mountains on the
south-west. Luiianzula's village had been the headquarters of a celebrated
Manyema slave-raider, who had lived here for a long time with his
Swahili following. I am not sure that the Manyema had not Arab blood
in his veins. He was at any rate generally referred to locally as " the
Arab," and he certainly professed INluliammadanism. He had built for

-<«^».

l6o. IX THE CONGO FOKEST : A CLEARING NEAR LUPAXZULA'.S

himself on either side of a broad street houses which were astonishingly
Arab in design, for this remote corner of the Congo Free State. The
carved, massive wooden doors might have been imported from Zanzibar,
but I expect they were made locally by a Zanzibari carpenter. In the
gardens at the backs of the houses papaws and lime-trees had been
])lanted. " The whole place might have been a village on the island of
Zanzibar.

In spire of this element of Arab civilisation which the slave-trader
had certainly implanted in the Congo Forest, he had made himself
notorious for his ravages and cruelties. ]Sumbers of natives had been
horribly mutilated, hands and feet lopped off, and women's breasts cut
away. All these people talked Swahili, and explained to me that these

198 THE SEMLIKI VALLEY

mutilation? — which, as only a negro could, they had survived — had been
the work of the Manyema slave-trader and his gang, done sometimes out
of wanton cruelty, sometimes as a punishment for thieving or absconding.
Mav it not he that many of the mutilated people of whom we hear so
much in the northern and eastern part of the Congo Free State are also
the surviving results of Arab cruelty ? I am aware that it is customary
to attribute these outrages to the native soldiery and police employed by
the Belgians to maintain order or to collect taxes ; and though I am fully
aware that these native soldiers and police under imperfect Belgian
administration, as under imperfect British control, can commit all sorts-
of atrocities (as we know they did in ]\Iashonaland and in Uganda), every
bad deed of this description is not to be laid to their charge, for many
outrages are the work of the Arab traders and raiders in these countries,,
and of their apt pupils, the Manyema. This much I can speak of with
certainty and emphasis : that from the British frontier near Fort George
to the limit of my journeys into the ^Ibulia country of the Congo Free State^
up and down the Semliki, the natives ap[)eared to be prosperous and
happy under the excellent administration of the late Lieutenant Meura
and his coadjutor, Mr. Karl Eriksson. The extent to which they were
building their villages and cultivating their plantations within the
precincts of Fort ^NFoeni showed that they, had no fear of the Belgians,
while the Dwarfs equally asserted the goodness of the local white men,
I am not prepared to defend the Congo Free State from its British or
foreign critics, any more than I am prepared to assert that the British
exploration and administration of Negro Africa has never been accompanied
by regrettable incidents. I can only state in common fairness that that
very small portion of the Congo Free State which I have seen since
these countries were administered by Belgian officials possessed excellent
buildings, well-made roads, and was inhabited by cheerful natives who
repeatedly and without solicitation on my part compared the good times
they were now having to the miseiy and terror which preceded them
when the Arabs and ]Manyema had estal)lished themselves in the country
as chiefs and slave-traders.

We spent the remainder of the day at Lupanznla's, collecting information
from the natives about the okapi, and the next morning started for the
dense forest along a native patli. very different from the comfortable broad
road we had followed hitherto. The path was often a mere tunnel through
an oppressive mass of forest, pedestrians being hardly able to stand
upright, and the porters therefore finding it most difficult to carry their
loads. Occasionally we plunged into deep ravines, where there was a
sensation of relief owing to the lifting of leaves and branches to a great
height above us. Everything seemed exceedingly sodden and excessively

AND THE COXGO FOREST

199

PATH THROUGH CONGO FOKEST XEAK LUPAXZULA S

green. P'allen tree-triiuks had been mined by termites and covered
with dank moss. Huge as these prone monsters looked, if one attempted
to sit down on them they crumbled into rottenness, and one risked being
stung by great blue scorpions lurking in the crumbling wood.*

* Sir Henry Stanley has given in liis "Darkest Africa" a fine description of the
Semliki Forest: '"There were clumps of palms, giant ferns, wild bananas, and tall
stately trees all coated with thick green moss from top to root ; impenetraMe thickets
of broad-leaved plants : and beads of moisture everywhere, besides tiny rillets oozing
out every few yards from under the matted tangle of vivid green and bedewed
undergrowth. It was the best specimen of a trojtical conservatory I had ever seen. . . .
In every tree-fork and along the great horizontal branches grew the loveliest ferns
and lichens, the ' elejihant ear ' by the dozen, the orchids in clo.se fellowship ; and the
bright green moss had formed soft circular cushions about them, and on almost every
fibre there trembled a clear water-drop."

200 THE SEMLIKI VALLEY

At last we reached a partial clearing open to the sky. This was an
Mbulm village inhabited by tall, not ill-looking negroes, who spoke a
language quite distinct from Bantu and not easy to classify. The Mbuba
huts were not badly constructed, though very low, and their roofs, formed
of leaves of zingiberaceous ])lants, had but a sliglit ])iteh. There was a
little ornamented porch in front of every doorway. In spite of the partial
clearing which had taken place, the vegetatiou was so ramj)ant here that
it was difficult to olitain a piece of bare ground for the camp. In the
vicinity of this forest clearing the butterflies were amazingly beautiful,
an exact reproduction of those already descrilied in connection with the

162. IN THE CONGO FOEEST, NOKTH-WEST OF MBENI : AN MBUBA CLEARING

Toro and Nandi forests. \Yhilst camping in this })lace, however, we were
rendered miserable by the appalling thunderstorms. Our tents were too
near to colossal trees for us to feel comfortable when we heard other
monsters of the forest crashing down during the midnight storms, while
it was very difficult to keep our beds dry from the rush of water. From
this place we plunged farther into the forest till we reached the Dwarfs'
homes. All this time we were searching fruitlessly for the okapi, though
I believe we were once on its track, for the natives showed me the
footprints of a large, cloven-footed animal on the black soil of rotted
leaves near a little watercourse. As, however, up to this time I believed
the okapi to be an aberrant species of zebra, I turned away impatiently
from these footprints, thinking them to be the spoor of a forest eland.

AXD THE COXGO POREST

201

In tliis vilhige, however, we olitained one or two species of okapi skin
-which had been cut up by the natives.

One of these Dwarf settlements merits a few words of description. \ on
must imagine that you have ])eneti-ated an extren)ely dense l)it of forest,
and in a hollow, near a tiickling stream, under such a dense canopy of

163. IX THE CONGO FOREST

foliage that the presence of the sky above is only indicated by twinkling
stars of blue through the interstices of the leaves, where the great tree-
trunks are covered with green moss or lichen due to the damp, there
are tiny habitations made of leaves and sticks which it is difficult to
believe at first are the dwellings of human beings. These are placed
usually in a little clearing between a clump of great tree-trunks. They

202 THE SEMLIKI VALLEY AND CONGO EOEEST

are perhaps not more than three feet at their greatest height above the-
ground, are circular, and have a tiny hole at one side which is used as
a doorwav. The huts are made by tracing first of all a rough circle with
the point of a stick on the cleared ground. All round this circle long-
withes or twigs are stuck in the ground erect. These sticks are then
bent over in a flattened semi-circle to a point on the opposite side of the
circle, and thus cross and recross one another, making a kind of low cage
of sticks. The large oval leaves of a zingiberaceous plant allied to the
bananas or the cannas — very often a species of Costus or Araormirii — are
fastened by the ends of their stalks to this network of twigs. The leaves-
are usually phiced in widening circles beginning from the apex of the hut,
much as tiles would be put on to a roof, overlapping one another. As-
this work very often is faulty, quantities of leaves and grass are thrown
on to the roof of the hut, and become settled down in time by tlie impact
of the rain into a mass of vegetation from which the water trickles off down
the outer side. Here these Dwarfs live in little communities on the-
outskirts of the settlements of big negroes. Their huts are so difficult to
distinguish in the gloom of the forest that the traveller may have Dwarfa
living all round his encampment and be unaware of their presence, especially
as they manage to conceal their own little bodies so cleverly. When they
are on friendly terms, however, with the big black negroes, they have a.
degree of confidence in these neighbours, especially in certain individuals^
If one of their friends goes out into the forest and shouts to them, they
will come at his call, even if it be to visit the mysterious and dreaded
European. In our own case, of course, we were at once friends with the
Dwarfs, as we had brought back to their homes those who had been taken
away by the German trader. These returned exiles brought into my camp
numbers of their fellows to be photographed and measured.

After several days' residence in this forest we were compelled to abandon
any further search for the okapi, and returned to the grass-lands of the
Semliki. I do not remember noticing mosquitoes particularly in the forest,
but something gave the whole caravan severe malarial fever, and most of
my porters were too ill to carry their burdens. The Belgians came to
our assistance, providing us with porters and soldiers to carry away our loads-
to British territory.

The forest between ^Ilieni and the navigable waters of the Aruwimi
appears to be extremely unhealthy. jNIany Europeans who have attempted
to travel through this country have died of blackwater fever, amongst them,.
I deeply regret to say, that excellent servant of the Congo Free State,
Lieutenant Meura, who had done so much in the l'})per Ituri District to
conciliate the natives and introduce law and order into their forest settle-
ments. With this reservation, however, as regards danger to health, I think

164. A STKKAM IN THK I'UKKST DEPTHS WHERE WE SAW FOOTl'IUNT-S Of THE OKAPI

^:0-^'^%^

'^'-•^

165. AX AFFLCEXT OF THE SE.MLIKI, C'ONliO FOREST

THE SEMLIKI VALLEY AN]) COXGO EOllEST 205

there is no part of Africa more deserving of careful research at the hands
of scientific men. I am sm*e that this north-eastern portion of the Congo
Poorest contains many strange or little-known mammals, birds, and insects.
Besides the okapi (a complete skin and two skulls of which were procured
for us bv the ^lanyema soldiers, and despatched to me after my departm^e
by Mr. Karl Eriksson), we obtained the skin of a remarkable new genet-eat.
This I took at the time to be a civet, as it was so large as to be almost the
size of the big African civet-cat, but it turns out on examination to be a large
new species of genet. It was named by ^Ir. Oldfield Thomas Genetta

l66. THE SEMLIKI IN THE GKASS-L.\.^■I)^^ IMMEDIATELY SOUTH OF LAKE ALBERT NTANZA

victorice. This genet was obtained from a very dense part of the forest.
In painting my study of this animal I have availed myself in part of
the drawing made from the skin by Mr. .Smit for the Zoological Society.
The background should give some idea of the dense leafage of the forest.

Farther away from the Semliki than we penetrated I am told by the
Belgians that the excessive undergrowth which produced such a stifling
atmosphere thins away, and the traveller can walk with a reasonable
degree of comfort between the mighty trunks of the colossal trees, whose
foliage at a height of 200 feet above the ground almost completely
shuts out the sky. This is said to be the region more favoured by the
okapi than the districts of dense undergrowth. In the depths of these

206

THE SEMLIKI VALLEY

mysterious forests the natives assert that there are other strange animals
besides, the okapi. A creature which they described as like a pig, only
about six feet long and very stoutly built, may be the little forest-
haunting Liberian lii[ipo}iotamus. There are also stories of a large
antelope, with a few white spots or markings, which has very dis-

I'^J. A (_lll.\li'A.N/,J.lL Ui-' llii, (.U-\IjU iUliL.->l

proportionately ?mall horns in the male. There is a great deal of talk
about a huge, man-like ape, but this apparently is nothing more
remarkable than the gorilla. The range of the gorilla extends to within
a- few days' journey of the Semliki Eiver. and specimens which have been
killed by natives and photographed by Belgian otBcers (the photographs
were shown to me) are nothing but gorillas, so far as I can judge. The

Thk Lakgl Genkt ok nit Slmliki Fukest {^GeNEI 1.1 I'H TORI.K}-

AND THE CONGO FOREST

207

"hair of some of these gorillas was quite grey on the head and shoulders,
no doubt from age. The leopards in this forest are exceedingly dreafled
by the natives, and the stories of their man-eating habits are innumerable.
They are particularly dangerous to women and children.

The elephant inhabits these forests in large numbers, but he appears
to frequent with equal relish the savannahs and open grassy plains of the
Semliki River and of Busongora, at the south end of liuwenzori. On our
return journey through the Congo Forest we halted at tlie edge of a

I08. YOUNG MALE ELEPHANT KILLED IN KUAHARA GOKUE.

picturesque gorge of the Ruahara River. Tliis is a small stream which
has in course of time widened for itself a profound gorge in the })lain of
Busongora that would be large enough for a Hudson and deep enough for
a Colorado. Gazing across this gorge one evening, we saw an immense
herd of elephants coming toward us, seeming in the distance very black
in colour against the pale straw-yellow of the dry, short grass of the
plains, liut with white gleaming tusks, each elephant looking extra-
ordinarily like the Eastern carvings of black ebony elephants with ivory
tusks that are to be seen in every Chinese and Japanese collection.
When they reached tlie precipitous descent to the Ruahara gorge, I

208 THE SEMLIKI VALLEY AND COXGO EOEEST

thought to see them turn hack, hut with great ease they slid and
scrambled down the steep sides, rushing with shrill trumpetings to the
reed beds which marked the invisible watercourse. We shot two males
out of this great herd, having permission to do so from the Congo Free
State authorities. When the first rifle shots rang out, it was a touching
sight to see the baby elephants run to their mothers (it was one of those
large mixed herds that one so often sees, with females and young accom-
panied by young full-grown males * ), and the mother separate her front
legs as widely as possible to receive the little one under the protection
of her body, ceasing her fierce trumpetings every few minutes to caress
the frightened little one with her trunk. After the shots which laid low
these two young males, the frightened animals in their panic tore up and
down the gorge through the dense vegetation, not, however, attempting
to charge us, though at one time it seemed as though they would run
amuck through the camp.

* These breeding males appear to be quite young (for elephants — say twenty tO'
thirty years old), with relatively small — fifty-jjound — tusks.

UGANDA PROTXCTORATE
GENERAL OROGRAPHICAL FEATURES AND SALUBRITY.

CHAPTER VII

HISTORY OF THE PBOTECTOBATE TEIUUTOBIES

ON certain ancient villajre sites in Northern Kavirondo — namely, in
that country which lies between Mount Kltron and the Victoria
Nyanza- — there are found in the surface soil curious blue beads and large
pear-shaped ear-rings of jasper and chalcedony. The lilue bead is a dull,
opaque, crystalline substance, deriving its tunjuoise colour, no dou])t, from
some infusion of copper. The beads are pierced with large holes, the
chalcedony or jasper ear-droi)s with a finely drilled liole. The Ja-luo, or
Nilotic Kavirondo, wear these beads and ear-drops, and attach very great
value to them. They are believed to come from the far north-west.
jMr. Hobley, who first discovered the peculiar nature of these ornaments,
and the fact that thev differed widely
from tlie glass beads of commerce, is of
opinion that they came from NuViia or
Upper Egypt. These beads, and the
custom of building clay walls witli arched
doorways round the villages,* may possibly
indicate that in ancient tim.es representa-
tives of a superior, not wliolly negro, race
may have come down from the north,
and have dwelt as traders, miners, or
settlers in these countries to the south
of Mount Elgon. We know by the
Egyptian paintings and bas-reliefs that
they had sufficient trading intercourse
with the countries of the Upper Nile and
the Western Sudan (as distinguished fiom
Somalihuid or the Land of Punt) to have
derived thence specimens of the Congo

* Though this is more characteristic of the
Bantu Kavirondo and of the Elgonyi (Nandi),
than of the Ja-luo.

VOL. I. 209

169. bluk be.ujs ix a ja-luo's ear
(kavironuo)

14

210 HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

Pvgmies (who, according to the traditions of the negroes on the Congo
watershed, formerly dwelt in large numbers in the Bahr-al-Ghazal forests),
chimpanzees, and perhaps certain monkeys. It would indeed be surprising
if the powerful dynasties which arose in Egypt and Nubia from time to
time during something like 4,000 years had made no attempt to increase
the commerce of their country in the direction of the Black Man's
Country. From Khartum the Egyptian boats might so easily have
ascended the Nile, assuming that river to be free of sudd, to the precincts
of what is now the Uganda Protectorate. Or from the same region above
Khartum there was probably no hostility on the part of the timid, badly
armed natives to prevent the Egy})tian and Nubian traders advancing
overland with their caravans in the direction of Mount Elgon.

But whether Egyptian commerce or Egyptian rule did or did not
have any direct contact with these countries at the sources of the Nile,
the influence of Egyptian civilisation profoundly affected Negro Africa.
With the exception of the few cultivated plants and domestic animals
which tropical Africa has received from Brazil through the Portuguese, or
which have been landed on its east coast from India by Asiatic traders,
all the remaining domestic animals and cultivated plants known to the
Negro have reached him by way of Egypt. From Egypt also came ideas
for the making of planked canoes, such as those used by natives of
Uganda, and the designs for musical instruments of a more complicated
nature than the drum, the antelope-horn trumpet, or the bowstring. The
Uganda harps are exactly like those depicted on the Egyptian monuments.
Is it possible that some of the "Bahima" (the aristocracy of Hamitic type
prevalent in Western Uganda, Unyoro, Toro, Ankole, part of the adjoining
Congo F^-ee State, and the countries on the south-east of the Victoria
Nyanza and towards the north and east of Tanganyika) are the descendants
of traders from Ethio})ia, who came to these countries many centuries
ago? The Bahima have completely forgotten any Hamitic language that
they may have once spoken. They speak now, with a marked accent of
their own, the Bantu language of the country where they dominate as
an aristocracy or where they serve as proud cattle-keepers. The Bahima
must have mingled in ancient times — possibly they mingle still to some
extent^ — with the surrounding Negroes, from whom they have derived
their closer, woollier hair, and, in some individuals, their darker colour.
But one notices amongst them again and again a type of face startlingly
Egyptian in its main features, and sometimes not much darker in
complexion.

Tradition amongst the natives does not enable us to fix even approxi-
mately the date at which the countries round the Nile sources began to
be invaded by a superior race of Hamitic features coming, presumably, from

170. A MUHIMA

212 HISTORY OY THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

the north-east. As far as any remembrance of their origin exists amongst
the elders of the Bahima, they repeat a vague tradition to the effect that
their far-off ancestors once were driven from their original country by a
severe famine, and on subsequent occasions by internecine wars. They
advanced by degrees to the Lango or Bnkedi country and the east bank of
the Victoria Nile. Here they halted for a long time ; then they appear to
have crossed the Nile and entered Unyoro, first in small, and by degrees in
large, numbers. At the present time there is no trace of the pure-blooded
Bahima to he found north and east of the A'ictoria Nile, but the Latuka,
Turkana, Suk, Nandi, and Masai peoples all bear traces of having mingled in
times i^ast to a greater or less degree with a people of Gala stock, from
whom they borrowed words for numerals, and with whom they interbred.
These Bahima were great herdsmen. They brought with them from their
northern home a breed of cattle of their own. These cattle, remarkable for
their large size, straight backs, and enormous horns, agree remarkably
closely with the long-horned cattle depicted in the Egyptian frescoes.

The Bahima, acccording to native legends, appear to have founded
dynasties of kings in Unyoro, Uganda, Ankole, Karagwe, and other countries
to the south. They were possibly the means also by which musical
instruments of Egyptian shapes, and perhaps other Egyptian " notions,"
were introduced into the countries round about Uganda. Personally, I
believe that this invasion of the Hamite was not confined to the countries
of the Uganda Protectorate and of adjoining German East Africa only.
I think the Hamite from these legions of the Upper Nile spread his
blood due west, affecting and improving the bodily structure and cultiu*e
of many of the Negro stocks found there at the present day, such as
the Makarka, or Nyam-Nyam. This western invasion of Hamitic blood
coming from Egypt may have even penetrated as far as the countries
between tht^ Benue and the Cross Kiver.*

Another considerable invasion of Caucasian blood came straight from the
western Sahaia Desert to Senegal and the countries in the basin of the
Niger. In Senegambia arose that half-breed between the Lvbian and
the Negro, the celebrated Fulah stock; and the Fulahs, or Fulbe, spread
by conquest almost to Central Africa, to the vicinity of Lake Chad, and to
the regions at the back of the Cameroons, bringing a counter-strain of
Caucasian blood into regions which were just touched by the infiltration
from the Upper Nile. Then, again, one seems to trace this "Hamitic''
improvement of the Negro physiognomy down the east and west coasts of
Tanganyika. On the west coast of that lake and in Manyema, though the
people may have perfectly black skins and woolly hair, they often exhibit thin
lips, a straight nose, and a Euro})ean cast of features. The Zulu tribes who

* Where I have seen very Haniitic-looking types.

HISTORY OF THE PROTECTOKATE TiaUllTORIES 213

invaded t he Sout 1 1 African
peninsula, and brought
so much of it under the
dominion of the Eantn-
speaking Negro, seem to
have been a relatively
recent addition to the
races of ^^outli Africa,
and to liave rushed down
from tlie more central
parts of the continent
with a ra[ii(lity c)iily less
than that with which
they rushed back again in
a counter-raid during the
early years of the nine-
teenth century — a raid
which brought Eantu-
speaking natives from
Zululand to within hail
of the Victoria Xyanza.
The original Zulu raiders
seem to have come from
somewhere in the direc-
tion of Tanganyika, and
to have been a people

which had received at that time an admixture of this Hima stock from
the direction of Uganda.

Under the Ptolemies and the Greek administration of Egypt nothing
seems to have been done to open up communication with Negro Nilelaud.
Some time after the Koman conquest of Egypt, the Emperor Nero sent
explorers to discover the source of the Nile, and they appear to have
travelled south up the course of the White Nile until they were stopped
by the sudd. They may jjossibly have reached as far south as the vicinity
of Lado, though to my thinking it is doubtful whether they got much
beyond the junction of the White Nile and the Bahr-al-Ghazal. Nothing
was done in this direction by the Byzantine Empire, nor did the Muhammadan
rulers of Egypt for something like 1,100 years make any attempt to extend
their power or enlarge their knowledge in the direction of the Upper Nile.
All this time the infusion of Gala or Hamitic blood into the races of Uganda
(which consisted mainly of the ordinary black Negro stock grafted on to
a preceding dwarfisli race like the Congo Pygmies) was building up dynasties

'^MB

171. A HIMA OX

214 HISTOEY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

and kingdoms which in comparison with most Negro states were powerful,
well organised, and endowed w'ith some degree of indigenous civilisation,
raising the peoples of Uganda, Unyoro, and the countries of the west coast
of the Victoria Nyanza to a position of comfort and refinement a good
deal superior to the life led by the naked folk to the east and north of
that lake, many of whom were still leading an existence no higher in
culture than that of predatory carniyorous man in the lowest Stone Age.

So far as tradition goes, the Bahima of Ankole can trace the genealogy
of their kings for about 300 years back. The Baganda can recall their kings
of a period as far distant as the fifteenth century. The genealogy of the
Uganda sovereigns includes thirty-six names (prior to the present king) ;
and if the greater part of the earlier names are not myths, this genealogy,
reckoning an average fifteen years' reign to each monarch, would take
us back to the middle of the fourteenth century. These genealogies and
legends will be treated of further in Chapters XV. and XVI. Assuming
that they are to be reduced because they contain repetitions or imaginary
or concurrent names, one is still entitled to assume that Uganda, Unyoro,
and perhaps Ankole and Karagwe to the south, have been settled
kingdoms under dynasties of Hamitic (Gala ?) origin for 500 years.

Though the Uganda dynasty, no doubt, belongs in its origin to this
Hima stock, which is Hamitic and of the same race from which most
of the earlier inhabitants of Egypt proceeded, nevertheless, as for
several hundred years it has married negro women of the indigenous
race, its modern representatives are merely negroes, with larger, clearer
eyes, and slightly paler skins. When these kingdoms on the Victoria
and Albert Nyanzas flourished, their utmost knowledge of the outer
world seems to have been a vague, a very vague, perception that there
was an Abyssinia, or a country to the north-east, which was a powerful
kingdom inhabited by people of palish complexion; while in other
directions their geography was bounded by the marshes of the Nile, the
Congo Forest, Tanganyika, the steppes of Ugogo and Masailand, the cold
Plateau of Nandi, and the mass of Mount Elgon.

Muhammad Ali, the first great Viceroy of Egypt, extended Egyptian
rule to Khartum, and under his impulse the Nubian merchants began
to explore the Upper Nile and the Bahr-al-Ghazal for slaves and ivory ;
but no word of the powerful kingdoms of Uganda and Unyoro reached
Europe through the explorations of the White Nile which followed on
the action of Muhammad Ali. The spread of guns and gunpowder, the
replacement of Portuguese rule by Arab conquest on the east coast of
Africa, and the immense impulse given to trade with East Africa by the
firm establishment of the British Empire in India (one result of which
was the enormous increase of seaborne trade between India and Zanzibar),

HISTORY OE THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 215

were all motives wliieli jinmijjted the Maskat Arabs who had acquired
the sovereignty of the East x\frican coast from Somaliland to ^locambique

172. A .MA^KAI AKAI! TRADER IX IGANDA

to explore the unknown interior, esjecialiy in the direction of a land
known as Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon. During the first forty

216 HISTOEY OE THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

/ ^. vear- of the nineteenth century Zanzibar Arabs advanced little by little
/ towards the interior behind the Zanzibar coast. They discovered Lake
Nvasa, and they heard rumours of the Victoria Nyanza and of Tanganyika.
During the 'forties of the last century they became firmly established
as traders in Uuyamwezi, and having hitherto treated the natives well
(except that they purchased slaves from chiefs ready to sell — a transaction
which made no bad impression at all on the negi'oes), they met with
few or no obstacles in penetrating farther still into the interior in search
of trade. Reaching the shores of the Victoria Nyanza, they heard rumours
of powerful kingdoms to the north and west of that lake.

On the other hand, the alert Hima aristocracy in Karagwe and Uganda
wa?^ beginning to hear of these men with beards and light complexions
who were coming to trade with the south end of the great lake. Arab
traders were invited to the court of Suwarora, the Hima king of Karagwe
(south-west coast of Victoria Xyanza), and especially to that of his
gentle-natured successor, Rumanika. The first non-Negro from the outer
world to penetrate into Uganda was a Baluch soldier from Zanzibar,
named Isa or Isau bin Hussein, who fled from hi& creditors, first to
|.\ the Arab trading settlements in Unyamwezi, then to Karagwe, and finally
^ to the court of Suua, king of I'ganda, wliere he must have arrived
about 1849-185.0. His handsome face and abundant hair and beard won
him royal favour. Known as " INluzagaya " ("The Hairy One "), he became
a power in Uganda until Suna's death in 1857, and possessed a harim
of 300 women. Through Isa the Baluch, the king of Uganda and his
nobles and people first heard of a world of Arabs and white men beyond
Masailand, Unyoro, and Tanganyika. Suna sent word to the Arab traders
in Karagwe inviting them to his court. Sheikh f^nay bin Amir al Harisi
was the first to accept. In 1852 this Arab trader stood in the presence
of the most powerful king of the best organised African state then existing,
untouched by Arab or Euro})ean influence. Snay bin Amir remained
some time with Suna, gave him much information about the world outside
the Victoria Nyanza, and even beyond the coast of Africa. From him
Suna and the Baganda had confirmation of the stories of Isa. They
learnt that there really were white men.

The Bahima who had formed the aristocracies and dynasties of these
regions remembered in their traditions a time when they were of much
lighter com])lexion and of longer hair than they had become since their
secular mingling with the negresses of the subject races. They were much
struck by these stories of white men existing somewhere beyond the Nile,
and regarded them as the stock from which they themselves had sprung.
They therefore manifested a certain fear lest the white men from the
lands of their forefathers might be coming to conquer these fertile

HISTORY OF THE PllOTECTOllATE TERTMTOUIES 217

countries from the irrasji of their blackened descendants. Snay bin Amir,
returning to Unyaniwezi, brought back with him (nil accounts of this
organised and civilised Xegro kingdom to the nortli. This news spread
rapidly amongst the trading Arabs of the Zanzibar hinterland, and ccme to

173. AX AK.VB TKADEK IN Ui;AN])A

the ears of the Gerujau missionary Krapf, and to Kebmann, his colleague.
(These two liad already discovered the snow-mountains of Kilimanjaro
and Kenya, and were doing much to bring to our knowledge the names
and the features of inner East Africa.) If Krapf did not first mention the
name "Uganda," then that revelation falls to Ca})tain (afterwards Sir
Kichard) Burton. The discovery of these snow-mountains, and the stories
of great lakes which were told by Krapf and Kebmann, were the indirect

218 HISTORY OE THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

cause of Captain Burton's expedition being sent to discover Tanganyika.
On Burton's return from Tanganyika to Kaze and Tabora in Unyamwezi,
he gathered up and communicated to the Eoyal Geographical Society all
the information he could collect about Uganda, Unyoro, and the Hima
kingdoms at the sources of the Nile.

About 1857 the first Arab caravans trading iidand from Mombasa
crossed the Masai and Nandi countries and stopped in Kavirondo waiting
for permission to enter Uganda. This was politely refused, on the grounds
that Suna was dead, and his successor, Mutesa, not properly installed.

Burton, returning to Unyamwezi from Tanganyika, was ill and weary
after his fatiguing explorations. He heard from the Arabs about the
existence of the great Nyanza and Uganda, but did not feel inclined to
face the bother and risk of another exploring journey to the north.
So he reluctantly acceded to the pleadings of his companion Speke, and
allowed the latter with a very poorly equipped expedition to travel with
Arabs or Wanyamwezi in the direction of the Victoria Nyanza. Thus
Speke discovered and named that great lake, and his discovery, combined
with the information he and his companion had received from the Arabs,
convinced Speke (but not Burton) that the main source of the Nile had
at last been found. Burton seems to have been so snappish to the
enthusiastic Speke when the latter returned from his discovery of the
Victoria Nyanza, that Speke kept his enthusiasm henceforth to himself,
and took advantage of Burton's own desire to remain for some time at
Zanzibar to hurry to England and lay the facts of his discovery before
the Royal Geographical Society. No doubt, being human, he at the
same time poiared forth his grievances against Burton, who certainly seems
during all this Tanganyika expedition to have been over cautious about
running risks, and easily cast down by difficulties and fatigue. Owing to
an exaggerated scare about the ]Masai, which Speke was quite willing to
have brushed aside. Burton had forced Speke to give up the idea of
visiting first of all (which they could very well have done) the snow-
mountain of Kilimanjaro. Undoubtedly but for Burton's fretfulness and
exaggerated apprehension of hostility from the natives, the expedition
might either have added Lake Nyasa or the Mctoria and Albert Nyanzas
to the list of its discoveries. The most difficult part of the journey
certainly was the route to Tanganyika.*
\ Speke, having the late Colonel Grant with him as an associate, returned

y to East Africa and journeyed with no great difficulty through Unyamwezi

* It is curious, but true, that if Speke's advice had been followed, and Burton's
cautiousness had been less, they could have joined with Aral) caravans in 1857 to
march direct on the Victoria Nyanza vid Kilimanjaro, and thus have forestalled
Joseph Thomson by twenty-seven years.

HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 219

and Karagwe round tlic wc^stern coast-lands of the Victoria Nyanza to
Uganda, and reached that country in 18()2. Suna was dead, and his son,
the young king, Mutesa^ had been hve years on the throne. He received
Speke \vith__great hospitality, interested himself in the object of the
mission, which was the discovery of the Nile sources, and sent Speke and
Grant to Eugungu to see the Nile issuing out of the Victoria Nvanza
Lake in its birth at the l\i[)on Falls (as the cascades of Jinja were named
by Speke). Trusting implicitly to native assurances that the river thus
tearing away to the north-west from the Alctoria Nyanza was the Nile of
wliich they were in search (and the assumption turned out to be right,
though at tlie time Speke could not say he had proved the fact with
certainty), Speke and Grant decided to strike for the Nile where it joined
with the Kafu Kiver (a mere swamp) in Unyoro. The expedition followed
the Victoria Nile north-west to the Karuma Falls.

Curiously enough, Speke seems to have displayed no curiosity about
the Luta Nzige,* or Albert Nyanza, of the existence of which he learnt
something from the natives. He knew, at the time, nothing of Mr.
(afterwards Sir Samuel) Baker's plucky expedition to come to his relief,
therefore he could not be leaving this important section of the Nile
sources for another explorer to visit. Throughout his journey he seems to
have taken a great deal for granted, though it must be admitted that
subsequent discoveries have shown the truth of these assum})tions. But
these assumptions, nevertheless, were based on so little actual evidence for
some years after Speke's return, that they gave his rival — and, I am
afraid it must be admitted, enemy — Burton an opportunity to subject
Speke's theories to a destructive criticism, a criticism which gradually
reduced the Victoria Nyanza to an unwholesome marsh containing a few-
open pools, and lent strength to Livingstone's wild theory of the ultimate
source of the Nile being in Lake Bangweolo and the Luapula Kiver.
Mr. Baker, with his plucky wife (who is still with us, and well and strong
enough to pay a visit some day by the Uganda Eailway to her old
domain), met the explorers S[)eke and Grant at Gondokoro, and learnt
from them about the possible other lake of the Nile sources, Luta Nzige.
Baker went on with his wife and discovered this lake, which he named
the Albert Nyanza, a feat for which he was knighted by Her late ^Majesty.
(In somewhat unfortunate contrast to this well-deserved honour bestowed
on Sir Samuel Baker, Captain Speke received no reward from the
British Government, and onh' several years afterwards did his companion

* The most common local Bantu name for I,ake Albert (and Albert Edward) is
Dueru or Lueru. Luta Nzige means " It " (the Luern — i.e., a .sheet of brightness)
" kills locusts," because the locust swarms when attempting to cross these lakes fall
(from fatigue) into the w^ater in myriads.

220 HISTOHY OF THE PROTECTOEATE TERRITORIES

Grant obtain 'a C.B., and that, I believe, was in recognition of some
comparatively inconspicuons services which he rendered in connection witli
the Abyssinian Expedition.)

After jNIuhammad All's conquest of the Egyptian Sudan and the
foundation of Khartum as its capital, the Austrian Government had
interested itself to some degree in the territories which might lie in that
direction as fields for European commerce and even colonisation. To
acquire information about the country it had encouraged, and to some
extent subsidised, the establishment of an Austrian Eoman Catholic
mission which should carry on a propaganda among the ISile Negroes,
with stations at Khartum and various places higher up the Nile. During
the 'fifties these missionaries had penetrated as far south as Gondokoro,
which is now the frontier post of the Uganda Protectorate. Petherick, an
enterprising Briton, had started an ivory-trading establishment at Khartum,
and in ihis sailing vessels had penetrated up the Bahr-al-Ghazal, and up
the White Nile as far as Gondokoro. x\n Italian traveller, Miani, had
even at this time gone beyond, and reported a story of the Nubian
slave-traders to the effect thai there was a great river flowing westwards
to the south of the Nile watershed.

Petherick first brought to our notice the whale-headed stork ; and the
ivory-traders, whom he supplied with guns and ammunition to range far
and wide and shoot elephants, brought back from the Acholi people far to the
south of Gondokoro the story of womanish races addicted to the keeping
of pet dogs who dwelt beyond the naked Nile negroes. (It was supposed
by Speke that the Bantu races of Unyoro and Uganda were alluded to as
womanish because of their habit of scrupulously clothing themselves in long
garments of bark-cloth in contradistinction to the Acholi, who consider it
unmanly to drape male nudity. The Baganda until recent years prized
the domestic dog highly as a pet). It was the rapids of the Nile beyond
Gondokoro which, at the time of Baker, stopped European exploration at
that point. A Maltese ivory-trader named Debono, however, penetrated to
the south of the Nile rapids, and was the first European (though an
illiterate one) to reach the inner Bari and Latuka countries east of the
Nile, within the present Nile Province of the Uganda Protectorate.

Sir Sam.uel Baker and his wife discovered the Albert Nyanza, which
they believed to be of very much greater length than it really is, decei^■ed
in this res])ect by the strongly marked indications to the south of the
Albertine Kift Valley. The plain of the Semliki, lying between the
Balega* heights on the west and the cloud-capped Ruwenzori range on
the east, appeared to them in its blue distance to be an indefinite

* In Negro languages there is often little distinction between "1" and "r," "d"
and "1"; this root is indifferently iironounced " -lega " or " -rega."

HISTORY OP THE PllOTECTORATE TERRITORIES 221

coutiuuiition of Lake vMbert to the south-west, while the stories which
reached them about Lake Albert Edward strengthened this conviction of
the existence of a very lengthy " slug-like " lake in Central Africa, which
extended from the confluence of the Victoria and Albert Niles towards
the great river which Livingstone was iieginning to discover west of
Tanganyika, which river afterwards turned out to be the Ufjper Congo.
Persistent clouds, and perhaps a difficulty of understanding the natives,
prevented 8ir Samuel Baker from guessing that his " ]Mue JMountains "
were probably the highest range in all Africa, and contained thirty miles
of snow and glaciers.

Baker afterwards returned to tlie Egyptian Sudan as its (jovernor-General,
and again visited these regions of the Copper Nile, discovering a portion
of that chain of swamp lakes nowadays known under the naines of Kioga,
Kwania, etc. On Baker's visit for the discovery of the Albert Xyanza, lie
and his wnfe had been held captive and very nearly killed by the king
of Unyoro (Kamurasi) ; and Kamurasi's successor, Kabarega, proved himself
quite as inimical in sulisequent years, and prevented Baker from continuing
his researches in the direction of Uganda. Sir Samuel Baker was succeeded
in his post at Khartum by the late General Gordon, and General Gordon
despatched two or more of his cosmopolitan white assistants — Belgians and
Americans — to spy out the land in L'ganda.

Arab intercourse with L^ganda had somewhat diminished since tlie time
of Speke's visit. King ]\Iutesa, though in a way searching for a religion
better than the inane worship of ancestral, earth, air, or" water -spirits, had
considered ^luhammadanism, but had rejected it, some say because he
objected to the rite of circumcision, others because he vaguely felt the
danger of its political propaganda, believing that if he and his peojile became
^luhanmiadans they would fall inevitably under the power of "tlie Turk"
(the Egyptian rule in the Sudan in those days was always referred to as
the rule of the Turks). Less and less began to be heard about Uganda
and the Victoria Nyanza from Zanzibar. Burton's criticisms of Speke's
discoveries had shaken the faith of many geographical lexperts in their
validity. Livingstone's mistaken impression that his last discoveries had
placed the sources of the Nile where he had really discovered the main
springs of the Congo led the interest of African exploration rather more
towards Lakes Nyasa and Tanganyika. A young Welshman domiciled in
America, and become the travelling representative of a great American
journal — Henry ^Morton Stanley — had succeeded in a very comjilete and
remarkable manner in finding Dr. Livingstone on the shores of Tanganyika,
and relieving him at a time when he was worn out with penury, misfortunes,
and ill-health.

Stanley returned to Europe, to learn soon afterwards that the man whom

222 HISTOET OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

he had relieved had with sublime obstinacy returned to his exploration of
the supposed Nile sources, only to die of dysentery on Lake Eangweolo.
The unsolved problem of the Congo-Nile — the doubts which had been
thrown on the existence of the Victoria Nyanza as a vast and single lake^ —
were excellent motives which prompted the Keiv York Herald and the
Daily Telegraph to join forces and to provide the funds for an expedition
which should enable Stanley to solve these problems. And Stanley did
solve them. Journeying to the Victoria Nyanza by Speke's old route
through Unyamwezi, he put together a boat on the waters of that lake
and completely circumnavigated the Victoria Nyanza, showing conclusively
for the first time that it was the vastest inland sea of Africa, and }ierhaps
the second greatest fresh-water lake in the world. Although in his hurried
survey of the lake shore Stanley made some mistakes (mistakes which clung
obstinately for years to the map), he nevertheless gave us the first approxi-
mately correct outline of the Victoria Nyanza, and indicated the existence
of its principal islands and archipelagoes. (On his subsequent expedition
to relieve Emin Pasha he himself corrected his original survey of the west
coast, and added the large south-western gulf to the waters of the lake.)

In 1875 Stanley and his large ex])edition reached Uganda, to be received
by the same INIutesa who had received Spek^.. ^lutesa was again puzzled
about religious matters. Stanley's conversations inclined him favourably
towards Christianity. At this opportune moment there arrived in Uganda
one of Gordon's messengers, or (if one may say so without un[)leasantness)
spies — Linant de Bellefonds, a Belgian, who in reality had come to see
whether Uganda was worth the conquering, and whether it was too tough
a job to tackle. Sj;flri1py__resnlvpd to write his famous letterto the
Daily Telef/raph inviting English missionaries to ])roceed to the evangeli-
sation of Uganda. He had no means of sending this letter back to Europe
save by way of the Nile, and Linant de Bellefonds volunteered to take it.
As the unfortunate Belgian was travelling down the Nile through the Bari
country in the vicinity of Gondokoro, his expedition was attacked by the
Bari, who had suffered recently great wrongs at the hands of the Nubian
slave-traders. Linant de Bellefonds was murdered by the Bari, and his
corpse was thrown on the bank, to lie there rotting under tlie sun. A
Government expedition sent to inquii'e into the cause of tliis attack and
to punish the Bari recovered Linant de Bellefonds' body, and removed
therefrom the long knee-boots which he was wearing at tlie time of his
death. In one of the boots — he had tucked it between boot and leg at
the time of the attack^ — was found Stanley's famous letter to the missionaries.
This was sent on to Gordon Pasha at Khartum, and forwarded by him to
the Daily Telegraph with an explanation of the circumstances under which
it had been found. The letter, when })ublished, met with an immediate

PLATE III

Tie EdmlmrgiL Geographical Insutule Suroeys. 1894-1901, Vandeleur,

J. G. Bartholomew.

SKETCH-MAPS SHOWING OUR KNOWLEDGE OF THE EQUATORIAL LAKES
ACCORDING TO DIFFERENT TRAVELLERS AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.

HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 22)^

response. Before many niontlis were over (perliaps less than a year after
Stanley liad issued the appeal from far Uganda), the first party of Anglican
missionaries of the Chuieh Missioiuiry_Soeiety had started in two sections
for Uganda. One-half went by way of Zanzibar and Unyamwezi, the other
went up the Nile. Both met in Uganda, and the establishments of the
Church Missionary [Society, which were destined after extraordinary vicissi-
tudes to result in an immensely successful propagand.i, commenced in 1877
their work in Uganda. 'I'luly Stanley's letter, the blood-stained sheet
of ])aper found in the boot of the murdered de P)ellefonds, was big with
fateful results for the Kingdom of Uganda.

The excitement caused by this bold step on the i)art of the Anglican
propaganda roused attention at Kome, or rather struck the imagination
and intelligence of a remarkal)le prelate of the Koman Church — Jiishop
(afterwards Cardinal) Uavigerie, who, as Bishop of Algiers, liad founded
the ]Mission of the White Fathers, a body of ardent missionaries who were
to imitate the Arabs in their dress, to lead in many respects an Arab life,
and thus to convert Northern Africa and the inhabitants of the Sahara to
the Christian faith. The views of Cardinal Lavigerie were, perha[)s,
consciously or uncon.-ciously, as nuich p)olitical as religious, and he yearned
to acquire fresh territory, not only for his Church, but for his own nation,
France. Kesolved that the British missionaries .should not have it all
their own way in Central Africa, he despatched his White Fathers to
the A'ictoria Nyanza and Uganda on the one hand, to the Zanzibar coast
and Tanganyika on tlie other. On Tanganyika the White Feathers have
done a really great work in making their missions points of refuge for
the slaver-raided natives, in introducing the elementary arts and industries
of civilised life, and in conferring such benefits on the local agriculture
as the introduction of wheat and European vegetables. Tn Uganda^-an-
forhmately^^rey came into rivalry, both religious and ] )olitical,__witL--the
Anglican missionaries who had been first established there, and this struggle
for ascendancy between representatives of two branches of the Christian
faith perplexed and irritated the weary and fickle Mutesa, wlio in his
last days was often heard to regret that he had invited any missionaries
at all to his country.

After Stanley's departure from Uganda and the death of Uinant de'
Bellefonds, GeneTaljtjordon^ Govei^nment again began to interest -itst^ in
the jpiestiiiii_of_U^ganda. Indeed, about this time the Government of the
Egyptian Sudan, during the last years of Ismail Pasha's reign over l^gypt,
became strangely ambitious. It had annexed the greater part of Somali-
land ; it had annexed; but failed to maintain the annexation of, Abyssinia;
and its fleet, under a Scotchman, :\lcGillop Pasha, had steamed down the
east coast of Africa and had attempted to seize the mainland ports.

224 HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

]\lombasa iucluded, of the Sultan of Zanziliar. Sir .John Kirk \vas then
the British representative at the court of the Zanzibar " sayyid," or sultan.
He was hojnug to see the growth of a large, prosperous, and well-governed
Arab state over East Africa between Somaliland on the north and the
Portuguese possessions on the south, and inland as far as the great lakes.
This state, he hoped, would eventually come under a sufficiency of British
protection or control to prevent the intermeddling of other European
powers, and to secure an unhampered field for British commerce. Mutesa
had heard from, the English missionaries of Sir John Kirk, and had
commenced a correspondence with him. Sir John Kirk had intervened to
send away the fleet of .^IcOillop Pasha, and had prevented the Egyptian
Oovernment from laying hold of the Sultan of Zanzibar's possessions south
of Somaliland. He now made a certain intervention on behalf of Uganda,
and his representations through the British Foreign Office restrained General
Gordon from establishing the Egyptian power south of the Victoria Nile.

In 1884i\Iut^a died, and was sucgpeded Jrv his son Mwanga. ^Nlwanga
was a youth of very vicious tastes, and introduced practices into his
court of an in^escribablenature, only to be alluded to in Latin
phrases which miglit 1ie borrowed from the works of Suetonius. He
very soon came into collision with Christianity. Both the Anglican
and Roman con\erts steadily refused to join in his orgies. Several cruel
executions followed, and the persecution of both Christians and iNluham-
luadans became jo. vehement that, despite_tIie__a1most religious reverence
which_jwas paid to the sacred person^of_jJ]e Jdng^ irii_TIgajida, a strong
feeling grew~npr"fbr~tlTe deposidon of Mwanga. King Mutesa during his
later years had "been less afraid of Muhammadanism, and had decidedly
acquiesced in the settlement of Arabs in his country both as traders and
religious teachers. His half-brother ^Nllwgo had become a ^luhammadan.*
and numbers of other Baganda had been converted to Islam, ^ianv of
these people, in fact, had travelled to the coast, returning with Aiab
caravans, and had joined the Muhammadan faith at Zanzibar.

In tlie late 'seventies a great revival of i\rab enterprise had taken
place, firstly in matters of commerce, and secondlv not unconnected with
a desire to establish an Arab rule over the countries of inner Africa.
Aral? t caravans had pushed boldly inland from the ]Mombasa coast, feeling
their way along the direct route to the Victoria Nyanza. In this way

* Mbogo was once for a brief time made king over Uganda. He lias always
been a loyal adherent of the British Government, is now regarded as the official
head of the Muhammadans in Uganda, and receives a yearly pension.

t When I say "Arab" in dealing with periods since 1850, I nuist be taken to
include black men with only a proportion of Arab blood in their veins, as well
as pale-complexioned, long-bearded Arabs from Southern and Eastern Arabia.

HISTORY OP Tin: PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 225

informutioii reached tlie iriissioiiiiries cstahlislK^d at .Moinlja^a during f he
'seventies of the existence of a Nilotic Negro language in Kaviroiido. on th(^

174. A SWAHILl (ZANZlliAKl) TKAUER IX UliANUA

north-east coast of the Victoria Nyanza. News began to arrive of the Nandi
people,* and of the Rift Valley with its salt- and fresh-water lakes. All

* The word "Nandi" first appears on the map of Stanley's "Through the
Dark Continent" in 1878.

VOL. I.

15

226 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

this iuformation, gatliered up and intelligeutly commented on by the
geographer, E. G. Kavenstein, brought about the despateii of the Koyal
Geographical ^>ociety's celebrated expedition under Jose[)h Thomson, to
which I shall allude later on.

Meantime, this steady increase of 3Iuliammadanism had brought to
Mwanga's court an ally to Christian influence. In the presence, not only
of mere heathenry, but of a soul-and-body-destroying debauchery whicli
was ra[)idly spreading under Mwanga's influence, the ''Peoples of the
Book" or '-of the Eeligion (Din)" (as they styled themselves) — namely,
the adherents of the Christian missions and the Muhammadan projjagandists
(who liad this common ground of belief, in that they derived their foith from
two difierent versions of the Hebrew Scriptures) — united their protests
against Mwanga's senseless cruelties and fllthy practices. Myvano^a^^thouglit
to abolish the prmcipal of his critics. bottj—Oiristian and ^luhanimadan.
bv inviting those chiefs and officials who had dared to reason with him to
])roceed on a warlike expedition against the Bavuma. His idea was to
land them on an inaccessible island, take away all the canoes, and leave
them to starve to death there. Scenting his })lot, the leaders of the religious
party resolved to strike for life and freedom, and possibly depose the king.
The_cowardly Mwanga became ])anic-stricken and escaped, every facility
being given him to get away. He fled in canoes to the south end of the
lake, where eventually he took j-efuge at a mission station of the White
Fathers. He shortly afterwards declared himself a Koman Catholic.

After this bloodless revolution, however, the temporary alliance between
the Christians and ^luhammadans was dissolved, and the Muhammadans
got the up[)pr hand. The Christians and the 31uhammadans had managed
before ]\Iwanga fled to secure the person of the eldest amongst his
brothers, Kiwewa, a man much older than Mwanga, who had been debarred
from succeeding to tlir throne on ]\Iutesa"s death by the Uganda super-
stition that a dead king should l^e succeeded by one of his younger, not
one of his elder sons. After the revolution the 3Iuhammadans attempted
to force on Kiwewa the rite of circumcision. Kiwewa, however, steadily
refused, and when it was attempted to impose this rite on him against his
will he turned on the high functionaries of his kingdom who were ]\luham-
madans and had come to his enclo.>-ure for this purpose, and killed several
of them. His palace was then attacked by the INIuhammadans, and Kiwewa
fled. His younger brother. Kalema, was circumcised by the Muhammadans
and placed on the throne as an avowedly .Muhammadan king. Kiwewa
was eventually captured and put to death. Many princes and princesses
of royal blood were burnt. The Christian missionaries were expelled from
the country, and large numbers of their converts left in dismay for Ankole
and the soutli end of the Victoria Nvanza.

HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 227

In the worst days of liis j)erst'Culions of the Christians Mwanga had
frequently threatened (atliolic and Protestant missionaries with murder,
though he always denied his threats when faced with tliem. The truth
is that he was suffering from a state of nervous trepidation owing to the
belief that some European State would annex his kingdom. As the result of
the interesting reports sent home by such missionaries as Mr. Wakefield, of
Jomvu, near Mondmsa, the Koyal Geogra])hical Society had, as T have
already stated, sent out an expedition under Joseph Thomson to discover
the shortest and most_ direct route from Jhje_Tnrlian Ocean to the Victoria
Nyanza. Dr. Fischer, a well-known German explorer, had already reached
theTlift Valley and discovered T^ake Xaivasha. The great obstacle to the
using of this route was the supposed ferocity of the Masai. ' The real
explanation of this was (apart from the ^Nlasai raids for cattle, which
brought them sometimes to the vicinity of ^Mombasa) that the Swahili
caravans traversing this part of East Africa never hesitated to plunder the
natives when thev thought themselves strong enough. They had received
several well-merited and drastic punishments at the hands of the Masai
for these attempts to rob and rape, therefore they had circulated reports
about ^Nlasai ferocity, which for a long time caused Europeans to regard
this lordly tribe with a quite exaggerated dread.

Joseph Thomson, however, managed to get through the ^Nlasai country
with little dithculty. He was obliged to some extent to follow where led
by the Swahili traders, and as the latter had a wholesome fear of the
Nandi and Lumbwa tribes which intervened between the Rift Valley and
the Victoria Nyanza, he made with them a considerable detour, skirting
^Nandi, and reaching the Nzoia River on the north-east of the lake. He
followed the Xzoia down to the shores of the Nyanza, and was the first
explorer to correct the mistake into which Stanley had fallen of making
Ugowe Bay a broad, vast gulf to the north-east of the lake, instead of a
small indentation of the coast with a long, narrow, tortuous gulf to the
south of it (now called Kavirondo Bay). Joseph Thomson stojjped near
the confines of Busoga, having accomplished his main object, and being
given to understand that the king of Uganda would deeply resent an
explorer entering Uganda through the tributary state of Busoga.

Thomson returned to the coast after revealing the existence of Mount
Elgon,* Lake Baringo, and the Suk countries, after establishing the truth
of Krapfs supposed discovery of a snow-mountain to tlie north of
Kilimanjaro (Kenya), and after giving such hints and suggestions regaiding
the existence of other lakes still farther to the north as to lead Count Teleki
a few years afterwards to discover Lakes Rudolf and Stephanie. The rumour

* Referred to by Sir H. Stanley as '• Marsawa " (" Masawa ' is the Luganda name ),
and guessed at 7,000 feet high — in 1875.

228 HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

of Thomson's approach had reached the ears of ^lutesa just before his
death. It revived the apprehensions of the Baganda, who were supposed
to have had a legendary prophecy floating abont thpir mpTnories to the
effect that when Uganda became subjected to a higher power^ the invaders
would come bvwav_of_£usoga.* Consequently, when the unfortunate,
rash, and ill-advised Eisho]j Hannington, the first Anglicanbishop_aj^)pointed
for Uganda, attempted to follow in Joseph Thomson's footsteps, aTid_enterpd
Busoga in 1886, Mwanga hurriedly sent orders to Luba, one of the
principal cliiefs of Busoga, to slay the European, whom he, Mwanga,
believed to he a political emissary. Bishop Hannington was therefore
killed by Luba's men with spears not far from the site of what is
now called Fort Thrustou. a beautiful place on the eastern shores of
Napoleon Gulf.

About this time Dr. Junker (a Eusso-German explorer), wlio had been
travelling through the Bahi-al-Gliazal regions of the Egyptian Sudan
at the outbreak of the Mahdi's revolt, took refuge with Emin, the Governor
of the Equatorial Provinces, who had set up a vestige of settled government
on the Upper Nile, with his headquarters at "Wadelai. Junker's only
chance of reaching Europe was to travel by way of Uuyoro and Uganda,
and by dint of lavish presents to the sulky Mwanga he was allowed to
pass on to Unyamwezi and the coast. Dr. Junker and the British
missionary, Mackay (who was so prominent and respected a person at tliis
stage of Uganda's history, and whose death from blackwater fever occurred
just as the prospects of Christianity in Uganda were brightening), had
conveyed to Europe an intimation from Emin that he was with difficulty
holding his own against the advancing Dervishes of the Mahdi's, or rather
the Khalifa's, em.pire. English feeling was much stirred on the subject
of Emin, who had been a generous donor to the natural history collections
at the British Museum. Moreover, England at this time had become
the guardian of Egypt, and it was felt that only England could properly
intervene by sending a relief expedition to Equatoria.

I must retrace my steps in the survey of the history of these regions
and point out that Joseph Thomson's expedition, which came to an end
in the spring of 1884, drew the attention of Britisli geographers and of
the British Government to the future commercial importance of this
direct overland route to the Victoria Nvanza. Sir John Kirk, firmly
believing in the commercial possibilities of these regions, had induced
the Royal Society and British Association to combine in sending a scientific
expedition to examine the fauna and flora of Mount Kilimanjaro. He
intended that this expedition should be made the means of conveying

* This prophecy turned out truly, for the caravans of Mr. Jackson and Captain
(now General Sir Frederick) Lugard followed this route.

HISTOTtY OP TIIK PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 221)

return ]iresents to the chiefs of tliat region who had political relations
with him.

The autlior of this buok hapj^jened to he the person selected to coniniaiid
this expedition, liaving not long since returned from an exploration of

175. CHIEF LUBA (OF BlMiuAI. lUK i:\ Ki I 1 h 'Ml: <>t l;l.-llcil' II AN M N- . I ' 'N . ill LA is THp: SKATED
FIGLRE; the other two AHE his son and, in the BACKLiKOtND, ONE OF THE SUDANESE
EX-MUTINEERS WHO REVOLTED AT LUBa's FORT IN 1897)

the Lower Congo under the cegis of Stanley, then laying the foundations
of the Congo Free State. The political result of his work on Kilimanjaro
was the conclusion of treaties which very nearly brought the whole of
that mountain within the British sphere, and which at any rate were the
basis from which the Imperial British East Africa Company sprang. This

230 HISTORY OF THE PEOTECTORATE TERRITORIES

company was mainly organised by tlie late Sir William Mackinnon, the
chairman of the British India Steamship Navigation Company. As a
matter of fact, had Sir William Mackinnon possessed greater faith in
East Africa and moved a little sooner in the right direction, we should
have secured the whole of Kilimanjaro, besides the territories which we
now possess at the base of that mountain. But Sir William was cautious,
and disinclined to embark his capital in East African adventures without
something in the shape of a Government guarantee. Once the company
had been started, however, Sir William became keenly interested in the
plan for relieving Emin Pasha, no doubt with the ulterior object — not
after all a discreditable one — of extending the dominion of his chartered
company to the territories which Emin felt obliged to evacuate.

But there were already many international jealousies regarding the
allotment of East Africa. The 1890 agreement between Great Britain and
German}^ seemed at that time an impossibility, and Germany viewed witb-con-
siderable jealousy any transference of the Egvy)tian Sudan or Uganda to the
British sphere "ofinfTuence. Moreover, the murder of Bishop Hannington
had made a deep impression, and the power of Uganda was thought tobe

too strong for the best-organised militar\^_expedition of that period_ to

face with any chance ol^^uccessy Consequently, as Stanley wished to
reach Equatoria without travelling through Uganda or through German
East Africa, he felt obliged to take the Congo route. Tiiat he succeeded
in his purpose is now a matter of history, thougli it was at the cost
of privations, miseries, deaths, delays, and disappointments which would
probably all have been avoided but for the refusal of the Germans to
allow him to })roceed through German East Africa, or the exaggerated
estimate of the difficulties which would have been met with by following
Joseph Thomson's route from Mombasa past Mount Elgon to the Nile.
Stanley brought away Emin Pasha, discovered Kuwenzori and Lake
Albert Edward, and in a measure increased the British claims to consider
these territories to lie within a British sphere of influence.

Towards the closeof 1889 the detestation of the^ Muhammadans felt
by the peasanFs of Uganda, and the growing influence of the Christians..
decided_Mwanga to make an effort to regainlns throne. This effort, with
the help^of Mi\_Stokes,* ^n_ English merchant, was eventually successful .

* As a matter of fact, Stokes was a native of the North of Ireland, a Protestant
who came out as one of the lay members of the Church ^Missionary Society. His
English wife died after the birth of a child. Some time afterwards Stokes contracted
a marriage with the daughter of an Unyamwezi chief. He had by this time left the
service of the Church ^Missionary Society, and had set himself up as an organiser of
missionary transport and a trader. He was commissioned bj' Sir John Kirk to engage
the head-men and porters of my expedition to Kilimanjaro, and very well he acquitted
himself of the task. He was an imi3ulsive man, however, and somewhat quarrelsome. I

HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 231

Mwanga, as^aRoman Catholic, was reinstated on the throne of Uganda.
The missionaries, Anglican and Eonian, returned to take up their abode
in the country, and all the Christian fugitives flocked to tlieir homes, to
find Christianity otfieially estahlislied a< the religion of the state, and
many of the defeated ."Mnhamruadans taking refuge with Kaharega, king
of Unyoro.

Other events not directly connected \vith I'ganda had l)een taking place
in Nyasaland and on J^ake Tanganyika, and it was felt that the time had
come for England and (iermany to arrive at a friendly understanding
regarding the complete delimitation of their respective spheres in East

Africa. The result was the Anglo-German C(mvention of" J une,_X8£iIl an

absolutely satisfactory arrangement. By this Anglo-German Convention,
Uganda_and all tjie^regions bordering on the Victoria Nyanza north of the
first degree of south latiCadefell to the British sphere of influence.

k^ince 1888, when a partial delimitation of the Britisli and German
spheres had been effected on the Zanzibar coast, and thence inland to the
Victoria Nyanza, the Im})erial British East Africa Company had commenced
the work of administration of the coast territories, a portion of which it
governed in the name of the Sultan of Zanzibar. Soon after the establish-
ment of an administration on the coast, the company despatched, amongst
other expeditions, one under Mr. F. J. Jackson, who was accomjianied by
Mr. Ernest Gedge, to make treaties with the chiefs of the far interior up
to the Victoria Nyanza. Mr. Jackson passed through Kavirondo. and arrived
in Uganda shortly after Mwanga"s~return, at a moment when tlie growing

believe he conceived himself to have been rather snubbed, or not sufficiently appre-
ciated, by the British authorities at Zanzibar. Therefore, when the Germans began to
take a hand in the scramble for East Africa, Stokes rather placed himself at their
disi)osal, and assisted them a good deal in their negotiations with the Wanyamwezi
chiefs, so that at one time he occupied a quasi official position in the German sphere
as a German agent. He kept aloof latterly from politics, and was ready to serve
Germans or English, one native chief against another, for fair payment. He gained an
extraordinary influence over the natives, who were devoted to him. This being the
case, he was able to raise porters for long expeditions as no other European could have
done at that time. After the British Protectorate was declared over I'ganda, Stokes
turned Ins attention to trade with the Arabs and Manyema, who were estal)lished on
the Congo Free State border. It was believed l)y Cajitain Lothaire, a Belgian oflicer,
that Stokes was assisting the Arab and Manyema enemies of the Congo Free State
with munitions of war. As a matter of fact, I believe (though Stokes was not over-
scrupulous in such matters) there was not the slightest truth in the story that he had
done so. He simply went to the verge of the Congo Forest to purchase ivory from the
Arabs and Manyema for ordinary trade goods, and also for bills on Zanzibar. He was
sunnnoned by Captain Lothaire to his camp, and came without the least suspicion that
foul play was intended. He was suddenly informed in the noddle of the night tliat
sentence of death had been jjassed on him hy a court-mnrtial, and he was hanged early
the next morning — a cold-blooded and wholly indefensible nuuder.

232 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

disaccord between Cat ho]jcs__and_Protest ants and tlie_jTn2^"^^"g pnmity of
the ex]3elled__M_uhammadan.s caused a laxg<^ l'"^'^y "^ influential Baganda^to

desire__tlie_establishment of__some kind of Knropean Erotectorat^. The

French missionaries of Cardinal Lavigerie's mission were opposed to the
idea of a British Protectorate. They would (not unnaturally, seeing they
were Frenchmen) have preferred in some way to obtain French pjrotection
for Uganda, in the hope that France meant eventually to work her way
from French Congo round the north of the Congo P>ee State to Uganda
(a dream not so impossible when one remembers the actual achievements
of Marchand eight years later). Failing a French Protectorate, they would
have preferred to be under German political control, some of these Catholic
priests being of German or Alsatian nationality.
f Mwanga really did not want any T^^impppyi overlordshi)j at all. He had,
however, sent to INIr. Jackson a vague request for help, which reached the
former in Kavirondo at the end of 1889. ]Mr. Jackson replied, offering to
come if ]Mwanga would place his country under the company's protection.
Mwanga shilly-shallied, however, and Jackson went off to Mount Elgon.
Whilst he was absent Dr. Karl ^ters (a German traveller who had got
up an expedition to go in search of Emin Pasha, but who was really bent
on political adventures, and was a free lance) marched into Jackson's camp
in Kavirondoy(,was mistaken by Jackson's servants for an Englishman, and
therefore handed the letters which were awaiting Jackson's return.
Dr. Peters having opened and read these, determined to go himself to
Uganda and steal a niarch on Jackson, hoping in this way to forestall
England in UgandaJ ^Meantime the decisive struggle between the
Christians and ]Muhammadans in Uganda had taken place near Mengo,
and the young Muhammadan king, Kalema, was completely defeated, and
fled. Mwanga reinstated himself at Mengo in time to receive Karl Peters,
who, with the aid of the PVench priests, drew up a treaty which procured
for Germany a Protectorate over Uganda. This treaty, of course, was
disavowed by the German Government, and had no political effect. Mr.
Jackson arrived in Uganda in the early part of 1890, and although he
was not successful in concluding a treaty for the company with the king,
he left Mr. Gedge in Uganda with a number of armed men who might
be looked upon as a help to Mwanga in re[)elling the ^Muliammadans,
and an intimation to any unscrupulous person * that Uganda was already
in the purview of the British.

Soon_aft£]:^rrived Captain (now^Sir Frederick) Lugard as the accredited

* By " unscrupulous " I do not imply blame on any attempt by a German to secure
a German Protectorate over Uganda — an enterprise quite as defensible as the similar
attempts of Englishmen. I only mean to animadvert on such conduct as the opening
and reading another man's correspondence.

HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 2:«

agent of the chartered company. Liigard marched straight on .Mengo,
refusing to listen to ^Nlwanga's attempts at temporising and delay. He
proposed a new treaty to ^Nlwanga, which was for some time opposed by the
French faction, but suddenly agreed to and signed on December 26th,
18911. < hi the following day (December 27th) arrived the first English
Bislio)) of Uganda who ever took up his re.sidence in that^counjxy,
Bishop Alfred Tucker, who holds that position to this day. Following on
this treaty of Lugard's came, however, a civil war between tiie Koman
Catholics and Anglicans, culminating in an attack by ^Iwanga's adherents
on the small fort which Lugard had been allowed to build at Kampala,
a suburb of ^ fen go.

Prior to this outbreak the ^luliammadan ex-king of Uganda died of
smallpox, but a successor had been chosen in the person of ^Nlbogo, and
a serious raid had been made by the Muhammadans on the central
districts of Uganda. Captain Lugard n^arched with a contingent of
Baganda under the present prime minister, Apolo Kagwa, against the
combined forces of the ^Nluhammadan Baganda and the Banvoro. He
inflicted a severe defeat on the Muhammadans, but had resolved, never-
theless, on the bold project of proceeding to the west coast of Lake
Albert and taking over all the ex-Sudanese soldiers of Emin's jn'ovince,
who were established at Kavali's under Selim Bey. The ultimate result
was that Captain Lugard brought Selim Bey, his 400 or 500 Sudanese
soldiers, and a rabble of some 7,000 wives, followers, and children, into
South Toro, where he established them in the newly created kingdom
over which he had placed Kasagama (the present king), who was a prince
of the Unyoro royal family.

After Lugard returned to Mengo in 1^2 the long-brewing trouble
between Catholics and Protestants finallylburst out in civil wav. Lugardjs
fort on the hill^at Kampala was attacked by the Frenchpartv' (as the
Eoman Cathohcs styled themselves)^ 'Cke__sit nation was saved by his
Maxim gun, which repelled the attack of thousands. Mwanga fled, as he
always did when war broke out, andlEe flag'7)Fl:he Imperial British East
Africa Company was hoisted over his reed palace at ]\leugo. ^Mwanga took
refuge with the French missionaries on the island of Bulingugwe. This
island was attacked by Lugard and Captain Williams (his military
assistant), and iNIwanga then fled to the German frontier. A^er negotia-
tions that wprp fntilp, and much shil1y-shRl1jiriPV;_^w;mgn returned to
Afengo. mid bfomnp reconciled to Lugard. After making an attempt to
settle the ^Muhammadan problem by winning over the Aluhammadan
representative of the royal family of Uganda (Mbogo) to the British side,
Lugard finally left Uganda in the middle of 1892, having, it may be
truly said, effected very wonderful things with very small resources. It

234 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

will be some time yet before the great ne^^s of his exploits is thoroughly
realised.

Lugard's return to England caused the whole question of Uganda to
be discussed from an Imperial point of view. Thp F.nst Africa. Tom pan v
was beginnin^__to find that^s funds wiere wholly inadequate for main-
taining a large forceo^^rmedmen in I^stern Afrkia, keeping the peace,
and" admiuisteringa ten-itory which from jNIombasa to the White Nile
represented an area of something like 300,000 square miles. They gave
notice, therefore, of their intention to withdraw, x^t the same time the
French Government had espoused the cause of the French missionaries
in Uganda, who. having taken sides with the Catholic party in the
civil war, had suffered incidentally from the defeat of that party. Tlie
question which really lay with the BritMi^ fTr>\rarTimpnt was whether or
not a direct British Protectorate should__be_ established oyer Uganda,
involving the Imperial Government in the responsibility for the main-
tenance of law and order on the Victoria Nyanza 800 miles and more
from the only possible base of operations, the coast of the Indian Ocean.
It was felt that the proclamation of the Protectorate must lead inevitably
before long to the serious expense of constructing a railway from Mombasa
to the north-east coast of the Victoria Xyanza.

Mr. Gladstone's Administration decided to send Sir Gerald Portal as
Commissioner to report on the situation in Uganda and the advisability
of declaring a British Protectorate. It may almost be said that the
verdict was a foregone conclusion. In 1890 the British Government
had distinctly negotiated for the inclusion of Uganda within the British
sphere of influence. They had encouraged the Imperial British East
Africa Company to advance their responsibilities in that direction, and
Sir (xerald Portal was so far convinced beforehand of the need of this
Protectorate that he took with him a staff large enough to enable him
to leave some of its members behind to assume the political control
over Uganda before the creation of a proper Administration. Sir Gerald
Portal did not stay long in Uganda, and as a matter of fact does not
seem personally to have been very favourably impressed with the country.
His brother. Captain Kaymond Portal, a most promising officer, who had
re-established law and good government in the Kingdrm of Toro, died
on his return from that country.

What must have impressed Sir Gerald Portal himself most unfavour-
ably was the gLl>]jallin^__tran sport difficulty, the well-nigh heart-bi'eaking
trouble of conveying constant sup^tlies of goods over those 800 miles that
separate Uganda from Mombasa. He made an excursion on his homeward
journey to report on what use the Tana Kiver might be as a means of
penetrating some distance inland with water ti'ansport. He found it was

HISTORY OF THE PROTECTOllATE TE1UUT01UE8 235

no use whatever. Soon after reaching England he was attacked bv tyi)hoid
fever, and his system, weakened by the great liardships he had endured
in East Africa, caused liim to fall a victim to this disease. Before the
termination of liis mission, Colonel (now General Sir Henrv) Colvile liad
been sent out to assist him, and Colonel Colvile for more than a vear

acted as Conimissioner for the newlv created Uiranda Protectorate^

king

a tt-eaty^_wkh_^Iwaiiga in 181)5 which laid the basis of our Protectorate
relatiiHiii_aith_Uganda proper.

Kabarega, the king of Uuyoro, had, as has been shown, taken part in the
civil wars of Uganda bv assisting the Muhammadaii faction. Wars between

176. EX-KING KABAREGA IX THE (l-H'll

CAPTURE BY LIEUTEXANT-COLOXEL EVATT IX I
WITH BAXDAGES OX HIS ARMS)

\N UGAXD.\ CHIEF, THE KAKUXGIT.U (AFTER HIS
KABAREGA IS THE SEATED FIGURE

Unyoro and Uganda had occurred at intervals for a century or more.
Sometimes Unyoro was tributary to Uganda, sometimes it formed the
nucleu-; of a kind of western empire, answering pretty much to the
Western Province of to-day, throughout which the Urunyoro language is
predominant. W . the Britis' Protectorate was declared over Uganda,
it is to be feared that the Baganda chiefs, greedy for territory and spoil,
rather threw ditheulties in the way of Kabarega coming to terms with the
British authorities. But, as a matter of fact, this native prince deserves
no pity, even from those who are most strenuous in the defence of native
races. Throughout his tenure of the throne of Unyoro he had used his
bands of warriors to devastate Toro and Northern I'ganda, and had sliown

236 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

hostility and greediness in dealing witli every European traveller whom
fate threw in his way.

Colonel Colvile set himself to break Kabarega's power, and succeeded
in the main in doing so. The result of his campaigns was to plant the
British flag at Wadelai, on the White Nile (where, however, it was hauled
down again by the orders of the Bricish Government), and to hand over
to the Kingdom of Uganda large portions of Southern Unyoro. Colonel
Colvile established his administrative capital at Entebbe, twenty miles
south of Mengo. At first it was intended to erect the buildings at the
place named Entebbe, which had been surveyed for that purpose by the
late Colonel Vandeleur, who, as a lieutenant, accomplished most excellent
work at that period in making the first systematic survey of Uganda and
Unyoro. Later on a move w^as made farther down the peninsula towards
the open lake, and the site then selected was called Port Alice. For
reasons connected with the salubrity of the site a transfer is gradually
being made of the principal Government buildings back to Entebbe, two
miles to the north of Port Alice.*

Failure of health obliged Colvile to return to Enjij^Lnd, tlis pince as

Commissioner was taken by Mr. E. J. L. Berkeley, who had been CqilsuI at
Zanzibar ancTThe^Administrator of the British East Africa Company, and had
accompanied Sir Gerald Portal on his special mission. During Mr. Berkeley's
tenure of the principal administrative post in Uganda (though whilst he was
on leave of absence) the great Sudanese mutiny broke out. f

It has been already stated in this historical summary that Captain
Lugard, after his arrival in Uganda as the representative of the British
East Africa Company in 1890, soon realised that if he was to play a
dominant part in the settlement of Uganda he must have a force of armed
men at his disposal who were not Baganda. To have used the Protestants
aofainst the Catholics or the Muhammadan Baganda against their Christian
fellow-countrymen would have been a direct encouragement to civil war.
At the same time, the few hundred armed Swahilis from the coast — mere
armed porters, without military training — were a broken reed to rely on
in the event of any one of the Uganda factions turning its arms against
the chartered ) company's representatives or the Anglican missionaries.
Accordingly, he decided to introduce Selim Bey and the remnant of Emin's
soldiers, who had established themselves on the north-west coast of Lake
Albert. It was Lugard, therefore^^_who introduced, tbe. Sudanese ^soldiery
intojlganda! But,~"at tlie time, it is difficult to see what other course he

* Entebbe was a i)lace of some note amongst the Baganda before the days of
European administration. Its name means " The Throne."

t Mr. Berkeley was transferred in July, 1899, to Tunis, as Consul-General, his
place being taken in Uganda temporarily by Colonel Trevor Ternan, C.M.G., D.S.O.

HISTORY OF TIFE PROTECTOEATE TERRITORIES 237

could iiave taken if
he wished to maintain
peace between the con-
tending factions and
assert British controh
It was certaiidy incon-
ceivable at that (lay
that Indian soldiers
could be sent tol'ganda,
nor was it possilile to
obtain any other trained
soldiers able to stand the
climate, and at the same
time quite independent
of Uganda influence.
From the time,
J±e

Sudanese were intro-
d nced_JTr|;o the future
Protectorate trouble

177. SUDiVXESE SOLillEK.S : KIT INSPECTION'

w i t h t hem began.
TheinseTves mostly ex-
slaves, they had all
the cruelty and un-
scrupulousness of the
Nubian slave-traders, whose name, principles, and religion they had inherited.*
Placed in Toro under the late Mr. de Winton, they were supposed nominally
to support the power of the king, Kasagama, who had been appointed
to rule that country by Lugard ; but their ravages, robberies, and rapes
were more tenible even than the misdeeds of Kabarega's warriors.
After the greater part of them and their locust-like wives and followers
were removed from Toro and placed under better control in Uganda,
they rendered very efficient service in figliting the Eanyoro and the
rebel Baganda in the years which followed Lugard's departure, and

* Although these Sudanese soldiers were recruited, mostly as slaves, from all
parts of the Egyptian and Western Sudan, and Avere almost without exception
negroes of the most pronounced characteristics, they had developed from being
slaves, armed porters, and mercenaries of the Nubian traders in slaves and ivory
into a kind of continuation of this curious Nubian movement which commenced
at Dongola and Khartum during the 'forties of the nineteenth century, and
paved the way for the Anglo-Egyi)tian conquest of the Sudan. To the natives-
of Unyoro and I'ganda these Sudanese mercenaries are always known by the
name of " Ba-nubi," or Nubians.

238 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTOEATE TERRITORIES

included the work of the first railway survey under Captain (now Colonel)
J. K. L. 31acdonald and Captain Pringle and the organisation of an armed
force under Major Cunningham. The ease with which the brave
and steady Sudanese encountered and defeated large bodies of Banyoro,
Baganda. and Bahima ins^jired them with a great contempt for the pagan
or Christian natives of the Protectorate. They were fanatical JNIuham-
raadans ; they secretly despised the white man as an unbeliever, and they
hankered continually after the founding of ^Muhammadan kingdoms of
their own in these fertile, easily conquered countries. Occasionally, more-
over, their officers were not as well chosen as ^Nlajor Cunningham and
the late Major Thruston, who at any rate were able to converse with
their men in Egyptian Arabic. Englishmen of no great experience of
actual warfare, and of no knowledge of Arabic, were occasionally placed in
command of these Sudanese, of whose intrigues they remained in absolute
ignorance (through the linguistic barrier), and whose loyalty and aftectiou
they failed to secure by adopting a harsh and unsympathetic demeanour
towards them.

Owing to the frightful transport difficulty which attended the bringing
up of trade goods or specie from the east coast of Africa, the ad-
ministrative authorities were unable to pay these Sudanese good wages
at first, or even to pay the men punctually. Thus their pay got into
arrears. Then, owing to stress of circumstances — the flight of Mwanga
one day, the outbreak of the Nandi in the eastern part of the Pro-
tectorate soon afterwards — the Sudanese soldiers had to be hurried
hundreds of miles on foot from one part of the Protectorate to another.
They were apt to be tiresome about their wives. These negroes of the
Central Sudan are very polygamous ; even a common soldier is seldom
contented witli one wife, while they require to have their wives with
them wherever they go. These women, it is true, do a good deal
towards carrying the private effects of their husbands, and act as cooks
and useful camp followers; but at the same time they are rapacious
locusts, and grab without scru])le wliatever they can lay hands on
amongst the indigenous native tribes. It became necessary, owning to the
enforced rapidity of military movements, to leave this rag-tag-and-bobtail
of women, children, and "boys" behind at some centre of administration,
so that the men were separated from their wives and children for perhaps
four or five months at a time. Serious discontent, therefore, was brewing,
and treachery was being plotted amongst the Sudanese when an event
occurred which precipitated the mutiny.

Colonel J. R. L. Macdouald, who had ably conducted the first railway
survey to Uganda on behalf of the East Africa Company, returned to
Uganda in 1897. The advance on Khartum which the British Government

HISTORY OF THK TROTECTOKATE TERRITORIES 239

had felt to be inevitalile rendered it advisable tliat the re-couque.st of
the Kgy[)tian Sudan from the north should be, to some extent, combined
with au advance, of geographical knowledge at any rate, from the Uganda
Protectorate into the southern part of the Egyptian Sudan. Colonel
Macdonald accordingly was sent out to make this geographical survey and
political reconnaissance. It was decided by the Foreign OflKce that he
should be allowed to choose an escort from amongst the Uganda Sudanese

178. A LOYAL SUDANESE NATIVE OFFICER: KEHAN EFKEXIH

soldiers. When this request reached the Commandant, [Major Ternan,
and the acting Commissioner, ]Mr. (feorge Wilson* (the Commissioner
was away on leave of absence), it was received with some dismay. Never-
theless, a large body of Sudanese were told off to accompany Major
Macdonald's expedition. These companies had just returned from the
pursuit of the runaway INlwanga in Buddu, for Mwanga, after ineffectually

* An official who rendered great services in Uganda projier during the trying time
of the mutiny. He is now Deputy Commissioner for Uganda.

210 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

plotting for the overthrow of the British authority, had fled into German
territory.

Exasperated with fatigue and with the continual severance from their
wives, to whom thev are much attached ; doubtful of the honesty of tlie

179. A SUDANESE SOLDIER (aL'THOK's OKDEKLY, SEKGEAXT FADL AL MALLAH,
A NATIVE OF THE LOGBWARI COUNTRY, AND 6 FEET 3 INCHES TALl)

Administration, owing to the delayed payment of their wages ; * scared at
the possibility of being lost in unknown lands far beyond their ken ; they
determined they would not form part of the escort of Colonel Macdonald's.
expedition. They decided to put their grievances before an English

* Although all arrears were subsequently paid by Mr. Jackson in Colonel Macdonald's
presence.

HISTORY OV THE niOTI^XTOKATE TEKIMTOIUES 2H

officer at Kam|)alii. He refused to listen to them. They then resolved
to carry out their orders in so far as to proceed to the Kavine station, in
the Eastern Province, where they were to meet Colonel Ahicdonald. Here
they lioped to be ahle to a[»i)eal to ]Mr. Jackson, one of the principal
civil otheials, whom they knew^ well, and in whose spirit of justice they
had confidence. Tliey felt sure that Mr. Jackson would intercede for
them, and obtain the revocation (»f the order for their leavinij the Pro-

TKEE OITSIDK I.l |:a s i Ni i\\ [(Mil lllKlMd.NI I NDEK WHICH
MAJOR THRUSTOX WAS KILLED BY THE MUTINEERS

tectorate with Colonel ^Macdonald's ex})edition. Arriving at the Ravine,
however, they were told that the order must be carried out, though every
effort would be made to maintain their wives and families in comfort
whilst they were away, and that their other grievances in regard to pay
and continual work on expeditions would be attended to wlien they
returned from accompanying Colonel Macdonald.

It should, however, be stated that when these Sudanese reached the
Ravine they displayed a truculent behaviour, and that they were resohed,
VOL. I. 16

212 HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

apparently, not to give in to any terms wliicli involved their accompanying
Colonel Macdonald. A misunderstanding unhappily arose in addition during
the parley at the Eldama Ravine between an officer on Colonel ^Nlacdonald's
staff and themselves, due, no doubt, to the inability to understand each
other's language. The Sudanese were ordered to surrender their arms,
and refused. Shots were fired over their heads, and they broke out into
open revolt, swinging round and starting back for the heart of Uganda,
resolved to do as much damage as possible on the way. They robbed
and looted stores, and finally, by treachery, obtained the surrender at Luba's
of the persons of Major Thruston and other Europeans. Major Thruston,
who with splendid heroism had deliberately entered the Sudanese lines

l8l. STEAM-LAUNCH rjCTuR/.l (XOW FLYING AGAIN UN THE NVANZA)

for the purpose of reasoning with the mutineers and bringing them back to
their allegiance without bloodshed, was (with the engineer of the little steam-
launch Victoria, ]\Ir. Scott) shot under a tree outside Luba Fort. The
Grovernment steam-launch Victoria was captured and partially destroyed.

The incidents which followed are too recent and well known to require
recapitulation. Colonel J. I\. L. Macdonald, assisted by Mr. Jackson and
other officers and officials, and by members of the Church jMissionary
Society as non-combatants,* succeeded after dogged fighting, carried on
under the most difficult circumstances, in breaking the power of the
mutineers, and chasing them away from the settled di^tricts of the
Uganda Protectorate.

* Mr. G. L. Pilkington, B.A., C.M.S., was killed in attending to wounded men.

niSTOllY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITOIUES 213

Kalxu;£ga_^ Unyoro. and Arwnntrn of T'lranrlg, tnnV nrU-nrr^-'^gQ ^f th^

Sudanese mutiny to join liaiids with the Sudanese in n finnl ^ffarf

to overthrow tbe_Hritish Viotpctorate. The eventual result was their

102. .MK. f. J. JACKSOX, c.B,

comjjete defeat _ancl__cax)ture at the bands of a British force (Indian
soldiers and Eaganda allies) under Lieutenant-(V.1one] J, F.vnft. T)SO

Kabarega, who for some time past had been a fugitive in I'nvoro.
chased out of that country by a ]5ritish and Baganda force, huutr about

244 HISTORY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

the Nile ready to lead raids at any time into the settled country, while
Mwanga equally distressed the Districts of Euddu and Ankole in the
south-wes-t. They really represented stronger forces than the k^udanese,
who had won to themselves hardly any following amongst the natives.
Mwanga and Kabarega had become the natural leaders of all that section
of the populace who clung to old customs, old savagery, slavery, and
polygamy — to everytliing, in fact, which European interference opposed or
disapproved. The capture and exile of these two kings have drawn the
thorn out of the wound of that portion of the Uganda Protectorate
represented by the Kingdom or Province of Uganda and the Western and
Central Provinces, and the wound has latterly healed. They have enjoyed
almost unruffled peace since the deportation of these recalcitrant chieftains.
I write "almost" unruffled, because, u}) to the time of my leaving the
Protectorate, a remnant (103) of the Sudanese mutineers had still remained
in existence in a rather remote part of the Central Province (the Lango
country); and as they were making themselves objectionable by raiding
the adjoining natives, or attracting to themselves other bad and lawless
characters, the present writer was obliged to take measures for their
complete dispersal. Seven, by the offer of terms of pardon, were won over
from the mutineer ranks, and the residuum (ninety-six) has since been
completely overcome by an expedition under Major C. Delm6 Padcliffe,
Captains Petrie and Harman, and Lieutenant Thomas Howard. After four
months' obstinate fighting in the nearly unknown Lango country to the
north of the Victoria Nile, fourteen of the mutineers died or were killed
and the remainder of the ninety-six recalcitrants were taken prisoners.

Hitherto this summary of the history of this Protectorate has chiefly
concerned itself with the affairs of Uganda and Unyoro, which at most form
one and a half provinces out of the six which (until Ajiril, 1902) composed the
Uganda Protectorate. The fact is, that the remaining proyinces, being in
a far more backward and savage condition, have had very little political
history to record. The districts of the Nile Province, which were abortively
annexed by the hoisting of the British flag at Wadelai by the late Captain
"Eoddy" Owen in 1894, lay for the most part under the power of the
Mahdi, since they were liable in the riverain countries to Dervish raids.
An expedition, however, under Colonel jNIartyr in 1898 carried the British,
flag as far down the Nile as Fort Berkeley (Bedden), and the outposts of
the Dervishes at Bor and other places on the White Nile had either been
rendered untenable by the accumulation of the sudd and the cutting off
of sup})lies or melted away with the news of the capture of Khartum.

In the eastern part of the Protectorate there had been trouble on one
or two occasions with the Masai — trouble provoked by the interference in
their affairs of a Scotch trader, who lost his life in a Masai attack. In

HISTORY OF TITE ??vOTi:CTORATE TERRITORIES 215

1895 the Im]jerial Government had resolved to coni^truct that rai 1 way
from Mombasa to the A'ictoria Nvanza wln'eli was tlie in(lis))ensahle
condition of the secure maintenance of Hrifisli rnntrol over the i-egions
about the sources of the Nile. The preliminary raihviiv survevs had alwavs
avoided the direct route to the lake through the Nandi country, [)artlv
because an exaggerated impression had been formed of the diflficulties of
climbing the ^Nlau Escarpment in this direction, and jiartly owing to the
truculence of the Nandi, a tribe who had shown themselves at all times very
ready to be hostile to Swaliili caravans and Euro[)ean expeditions. It is to be

MWANGA, EX-KING OF UGANDA (THE KIGIKE ON THE KIGHT-HANl' SIDE), IN
CHARGE OF AN UGANDA NATIVE OFFICER, ANDREA

feared, from what we know of the way in which Swahili traders treat the
natives of countries they trav'erse, that the blame for this hostile attitude
on the part of the Nandi originally rests with the Zanzibar and Mombasa
caravans, while in 1895 the first actual outbreaks of the Nandi against
Europeans were provoked by the aggressions of the Scotch trader, Dick,
who subsequently lost his life at the hands of the Masai owing to .-imilar
behaviour. However that may be, the Nandi carried their reprisals too far.
and an armed expedition had to be sent against them from the head-
quarters of the Uganda Protectorate — an ex})edition whicli eftVeted very
little owing to the difficult nature of tlie country and the insutficiency of
soldiers. But the personal action of ^Ir. Jackson (until recently acting

246 HISTORY OP THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES

DAUDI CHDA, INFANT KIXG OF UGAXHA, WJTH HIS TWO SISTFKS (THE FIGURE OX THE RIGHT
IS MIGWAXYA, OXE OF THE REGENTS)

Commissioner for the Uganda Protectorate), who resided close to the Nandi
country at the Eldama Eavine, did much to allay for a time the hostility
of the Nandi, and it became possible to make an exploration of their
country and that of a kindred tribe, the Lumbwa.

HISTOUY OF THE PROTECTORATE TERRITORIES 247

In this way, and through the pioneer work of Mr. Jackson and Mr.
C. W. Hobley and other ofticial.'< of the Uganda Protectorate, the surveyors
of the Uganda Eailway became aware that a direct and not very difficult
route existed from the Kift Valley to Kavirondo Bay by the now celebrated
Xyando Valley, which is an uninhabited stretch of country between the
Nandi and Lumbwa tribes. About this time also a great deal of excellent
work had been done by such officials as [Messrs. Hobley, Foaker, AV. Grant,
and Tomkins in organising the administration of the Kavirondo countries
and Busoga. A Kavirondo chief, Mumia, who had received and assisted
Joseph Thomson in 1883, and who is still alive and vigorous, had from
the very first regarded the British officials and the idea of a British
Protectorate with hearty good-will. His influence through all the
troubled times of Uganda had done much to secure the safety of British
communications with the east coast.

The Sudanese mutiny had entailed on the Administration of I'ganda
a terribly lieavy expenditure, and had done further harm in delaying for
several years a complete settlement of the local Administration, the land
question, and the institution of native taxation. 3Iwauga and__Kabai£ga
had beerL_caj3tured and sent out of the country to_exile, first at Kismayu,
and latterly in the Seychelles Islands ; Unyoro had been permanently
occupied by British garrisons, and after Mwanga's flight in 1897 his infant
son had been placed on the throne by Colonel Trevor Ternan under a regency
of three Uganda chiefs. It was considered by the Imperial Government that
the time had arrived to set on foot a complete settlement of the administra-
tive afiairs of this Protectorate and more economy and efficiency in the
direction of its finances. The constant wars which had followed the establish-
ment of the Protectorate had ended by placing nearly all the administrative
and civil control of the country in the hands of military officers, a result
which, although it gave evidence of marked ability in some of these
soldiers, was not by any means a satisfactory or economical procedure-
Accordingly, it was decided to appoint a Special Commissioner, who should
at the same time hold unquestionably the highest military rank in the
country, who should attempt to bring about such a settlement, reorganise
the finances and armed forces, and report to the Government on the
possibility of creating a local revenue sufficient to meet eventually the
cost of the Administration. The author of this book was the individual
selected to carry out this task, and the results of this Special Commission
will be briefly set forth in the following chapter, together with a sketch
of the present lines on which the Protectorate is administered.

CHAPTER YIII

THE JFOBK OF THE SPECIAL C03I3IISSIOX, ETC.

A^^^HE present writer started for Uganda in 1899, accompanied by ]Mr.
-L J. F. Cunningham* as secretary to the ^Special Commission, ]Mr.
Alexander Johnston as private secretary, and ^Ir. W. (t. Doggett as
naturalist. f The Uganda Protectorate was reached in the earlv part of
October. Some weeks were spent at Naivasha and the Eldama Eavine
looking into questions connected with the transport and the political
aflairs of the Masai, Kamasia, and Nandi tribes. A journey was then
made along the Xyando A'alley to Kavirondo Bay to inspect the proposed
/'route for railway and telegraph. The Special Commissioner then journeyed
\ through Kavirondo and Busoga to the Kingdom of Uganda, which was
\ reached at the end of December, 1899. He considered that no satis-
factory attempt could be made to settle the question of native taxation,
\ military service, tenure of land, or any other important question affecting
the rights or sentiments of the natives which did not commence by a
special agreement with the Kingdom of Uganda. He was led to believe,
and believes still, that on the Kingdom of Uganda mainly rests the
maintenance and justification of the British Protectorate over these regions.
After negotiations lasting about two and a half months an agreement
was finally drawn up and signed by the regents (on behalf of the young
king) and the leading chiefs of Uganda, and by the Special Commissioner
on behalf of Her late ^Majesty the Queen, which provided a settlement
for the following points amongst others : The Kingdom of Uganda was
divided into twenty districts, each district being placed under a chief
appointed by the king of Uganda, but having his appointment confirmed by
the principal representative of His Britannic ^Majesty's Government. These
twenty chiefs were to be under the control of the king of Uganda, who

* At that time secretary to the British Central Africa Administration ; now
secretary to the Uganda Protectorate.

t The author was also accomi)anied by an English servant (Vale) as cam])-master
in charge of ]iorters, and by his old Zanzibari head-man, AH Kiongwe, who has been
with him on most African journeys since 1884. Vide "British Central Africa."

2-18

PLATE IV

^'...^

ULrAlNUA Jr'KU It OTUKAl L

DENSITY OF NATIVE POPULATION AND EUROPEAN SETTLEMENTS.

THE SPECIAL COMMISSIOX, ETC.

219

MH. W. G. nOGCETT, NATIKAI.IST OX THE SPECIAL COMMISSIOXEK S
STAKF, EXtiAGEU IX JIEASURIXG A MUAMBA NEGKO

was to be assisted in his government by a native council or parliament
elected on lines laid down in the agreement. The power of life and
death was reserved to the principal representative of His IJritannic
JMajesty in the Uganda Protectorate, who might also intervene when
necessary to modify excessive punishments of any kind. The native ruler

250

THE SPECIAL COMMISSIOX, ETC.

ALI KIOXGWE, THE AVTHOK S SWAHILI
" HEAD-MAX "

of Uganda was to receive the official
title of " kabaka," and to be officially
recognised by the British Government
as His Highness the Kabaka of Uganda,
and to receive, moreover, a salute of
guns on ceremonial occasions. The
Kabaka was to attain his majority at the
age of eighteen, and until that period
tlie Government was to be carried on
bv regents in his name, appointed by
the British Government. The civil list
of the king, and salaries of the regents
during the regency, and of the native
ministers after the king attained his
majority, certain pensions to princes and
princesses of the royal family of Uganda, and the salaries of the twenty
chiefs of districts, were stated at fixed sums, and it was agreed that the
British Administration of Uganda should pay this civil list and these
salaries annually out of the funds of the Protectorate. The king and
chiefs were not to exact any further payments from their native subjects.
All natives of Uganda were henceforth liable to pay a hut and a gun tax
of the value of three rupees (4s.) each annually. (Thus a native of Uganda
owning both a hut and a gun would have as maximum taxation to pay
to the Protectorate 8.9. a year.)

The agreement also dealt with a settlement of the land question. A
little less than half the area of the Kingdom of Uganda was to be
divided as the private property of the king, princes and princesses, the
chiefs, and a large number (some 2,000) of native landowners. The
remainder, including the forests, was to be handed over to the control of
the British Government. A few other points of minor importance were
provided for. This agreement therefore secured to the king, chiefs, and
aristocracy* of the Protectorate the tenure of all the land they occupied^
had placed under cultivation, or used as grazing ground. The waste and
uncultivated lands and the forests were handed over to the British
Government to be dealt with by them on the same lines as those on which
they would deal with the Crown lands of a Crown colony. Native taxation
henceforth was to be turned to the general support of the Protectorate,
and natives were protected from illegal exactions at the hands of their
chiefs ; at the same time the irregular revenues of the king and chiefs.

These again being pledged to a proper treatment of their native tenants.
Any landless native of Uganda can acquire cultivable land from the Administration
at almost nominal rent.

THE SPECIAL COM:\riSSIOX, ETC..

251

derived liitlierto fioin an uncertain triiuite, were fixed on a fairly generous
scale, and were henceforth to be paid to them bv the British Adminis-
tration of the Protectorate, [Moreover, in return for the cession of rights
over waste lands, the king and some of the chiefs received an immediate
payment in money.

As soon as tliis agreement had been approved by the liritish Govern-
ment and its provisions had become known to the more intelligent
amongst the natives of the Pi'otectorate, there was very little difl&culty,
except where Europeans had never penetrated, in inducing the natives of
other countries to accept a settlement on similar lines. The kings of
Toro and Ankole were dealt with by separate agreements similar to that
concluded with Uganda. The general provisions of these agreements as
regards land and native taxation were made to apply to the rest of the
Protectorate. Perhaps this settlement of the land question did more than
anything else to conciliate suspicious native tribes and chiefs and bring

iaaiil*«>^-« •^.•^•=^-*t-«'*-

187. THE AUTHOKa MJMALI " MAJUK-lJOMU,' AllMAH l^l.N WAUIA

about a friendly adhesion to the theory of native taxation. Satisfied that
they would not be turned out of the laud which they occupied and had
under cultivation, the natives became very reasonable on the general

252 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

question of supporting the finances of the Protectorate by their own
contributions towards its general revenue.

jNlr. Jackson (now Deputy Commissioner for East Africa) became
Deputy Commissioner in Uganda, and did much to settle the affairs of
that kingdom. Mr. George Wilson rendered the like services in Unyoro.

Arrangements were then made to divide the Protectorate definitely
into provinces (six), and these again into districts. It was laid down as
a general rule that a province should ordinarily be under the direction of
a sub-commissioner, while the collectors and assistant collectors should be
placed in special charge of districts or places. Pecognised native chiefs
are supposed to deal out justice (reserving matters of life and death) to
their own subjects. The sub-commissioner, collectors, and assistant collectors
hold generally magistrates' warrants and administer justice to Europeans
and all persons not native to the Protectorate, in addition to their work
of collecting the revenues and generally presiding over the maintenance
of law and order in their respective districts.

With the aid of Colonel A. H. Coles, D.S.O., and Lieutenant-Colonel
J. Evatt, D.S.O., the reorganisation of the armed forces had proceeded
apace. In this connection the problem was how to jtrovide at a fairly
cheap rate a sufficiently large body of men to keep order in the settled
and administered districts of the Protectorate. After the Sudanese mutiny
the Foreign Office had raised for a time the pay of the Sudanese troops to
a maximum of twenty rupees a month. This was subsequently reduced
to eighteen rupees, as that was the maximum given to the trained Indian
troops who volunteered from the Indian Army for service in Uganda. But
it seemed to the present writer that even eighteen rupees a month was
too much to pay Negro soldiers whose training, discipline, marksmanship,
and valour were not at the same high level as those of our Indian soldiers.
He proposed, therefore, that the maximum pay of Negro soldiers in the
Uganda Kifles should gradually be reduced to sixteen rupees a month.
Even at this rate, however, the upkeep of a force sufficiently numerous
to meet all the requirements of the Protectorate would be too expensive.
It therefore occurred to the Special Commissioner that the ordinary
maintenance of order might be \ery well carried on by a constabulary,
and that the trained troops, consisting of the Indian soldiers, the Sudanese,
Baganda, Somalis, and otlier negro soldiers of worth, might be reserved
for actual warfare, for expeditions against powerful tribes, or the suppression
of serious risings. Consequently, the number of soldiers serving in the
Uganda Rifles was diminished, and a constabulary, working under British
police officers (non-commissioned officers from the British Army), was
raised to a force of about 1,500 men. Including the Indian troops,
therefore, the Uganda Protectorate has on paper, and probably in actuality

254

THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

at the present time, a total armed force of something like 3,500 men, 1,500
of which are constabulary.* In addition to this force, however, we have the
whole nation of the Baganda to draw on as a militia hv our treaty rights.

. THE KI.Nt; OK LCJ.VNDA INSPECTING HLS INDIAN GUARD OF HONOUR

jS^ot long after the treaty of ]March 10th, 1900. was concluded, the value
of this condition was tested by the Baganda chiefs being asked to raise
a force of 3,000 men to co-operate with the Uganda Eifles in the Nandi
country. The response to this appeal was an immediate one, Over 5,000
men presented themselves for enrolment instead of the 3,000 originally
asked for; 2,000 of these had to be sent back to their homes, reluctant at
not being allowed to serve. It should also be mentioned that we have most
valuable nativ^e auxiliaries in the whole of the jNIasai who dwell within the
limits of the British Protectorate. All the fighting men of this nation are
ready at very short notice to accompany a British expedition anywhere

* These numbers and pro])ortions have been somewhat reduced and altered since
the transference of the Eastern Province to the East African Protectorate.

THE SPECIAL COAIALL88LOX, ETC.

255

in the Eastern and Rudolf Provinces. The Kamasia tribe of Xandi race
dwelling to tlie north-east of the Nandi country has also furnished us
with contingents of fighting men; the Kavirondo come forward as military
porters ; while of course in the Nile Province we have an admiraiile
recruiting ground for furtlier regiments of Sudanese.

The finances of tlie Protectorate were brought into order mainly
through the work of the chief accountant, ]Mr. G. D. Smith, and the second
accountant, Air. Alexander Jjoyle. Tlie local revenue during the two years
of the Special Commission rose from alwut £23,000 in 1898-1899 to £66,000
in 1900-1901, mainly through the sums received from native taxes.

The telegraph service was extended from the eastern shores of the
Victoria Nyanza to the Kingdom of Uganda, and has thence been carried
on towards the Nile. It has been detached from the Uganda Railway
management, and placed under that of the Protectorate. The postal service
of Uganda the Special Commissioner thought better to fuse with that of

>4%^ ■

M \\ f'APlTAL OF I XM'K' >. I
.MK. GEOHGE WII^SON, C.IJ,

East Africa, and place the whole mider the management of the Postmaster-
General at Mombasa. It may be mentioned that as the result of the work
carried on by the East African postal authorities, coupled with the extension

256

THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

of the railway and the placing of a steamer on the Victoria Nyanza,
mails, instead of being delivered a doubtful once a month from England,
seven weeks old, are now delivered three and sometimes four times a
month twenty-six days after leaving England.

Admiral)le botanical gardens were created by Mr. Alexander Whyte
at Entebbe, besides much useful work in planting round the native capital
at Mengo. Finally, it may be mentioned, the .Special Commission,
helped bv the officials of the Uganda Protectorate, was enabled to

191. A BINGALOW AT HOIMA

send home collections of zoological and botanical specimens, specimens
of the rocks and minerals of the Protectorate, and many interesting
ethnological objects to illustrate the arts and industries of the people.
The entiretv of these collections was presented to the British Museum.
The twin museums of Bloom sbury and Cromwell Road had the first choice
of specimens. What was left over has been divided amongst the museums of
Edinburgh, Dublin, and Cambridge. A large number of measurements
of types of native races were taken by the Special Commissioner and
Mr. Doggett, and about a thousand photographs, many of which appear
as illustrations to this book.

THE SPECIAL CO:^[MISSIOX, ETC.

257

The Si)ecial Commissioner's stay in Uganda was unfortunately co-
incident with one war, thongli he had hoped that the era of wars with
the natives had closed, liut the Nandi tribe, who had sliown themselves
at different times very inimical to the white man, and who had never
been effectually subdued owing to the mountains and dense forests of
their country, commenced a series of aggressions against us which at last
became unbearable. So far as we are aware they had absolutely no
grievance to com|)lain of. Caravans had ceased to traverse their country,

■■ Gij\ i:i;-\ml;m hulse at iiui:nA, i.wono, ix pkockss of builiung

as the Nyando route along the [irojected railway was preferred. No
taxation had been imposed on the Nandi; in fact, on account of their
waspish nature, they had been left severely alone. But the erection of
the telegraph wire along the Nyando A'alley and through Kavirondo had
tempted tliem to acts of aggression. The copper wire represented con-
siderable value in their eyes, and the temptation to descend at night-time
and cut a mile or two of wire from between the jtosts in order to
temporarily enrich themselves became irresistible. When these robberies
were punished the Nandi replied by destructive raids on trans^iort carts,
mail carriers, and isolated telegraph stations. The ditficulty, therefore, had
VOL. I. 17

258

THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

to be faced, and a very strong expedition vinder Lieutenant-Colonel Evatt
was sent into the Nandi country in the summer of 1900. Hostilities
lasted until November, when the Nandi, having had enough fighting,

It.3. 'lliK TK.1F<1HAHY KESHiF.NCE OF THE COLLECTOR FOR THE UXYORO DISTRICT

sought for and obtained terms of peace. Two months after the peace was
concluded, the Special Commissioner travelled in all directions through
their country, meeting everywhere with a perfectly fi'iendly reception, and
it may be considered now that the Nandi have settled down . for good ;
in fact, many of their young men are already presenting themselves for
enrolment in the Uganda police force.

At the present time the European Administration of the Uganda
Protectorate is not unnecessarily extended, and is confined in the main to
those districts where the presence of European or Asiatic traders or settlers
obliges the establishment of British officials to ensure the maintenance of
law and order on the part of the foreigners quite as much as on that of
the natives. In those districts where it is not at present necessary to
station European officials, and consequenly where no direct expenditure of
Imperial funds takes p)lace, no taxation on the natives is imposed, the
general theory being that the native should pay for the protection which

THE SPECIAL C0M:\ITSSI0X, ETC.

259

he receives, ami if native chiefs are unable to so govern tlieir people as
to ensure peace and quiet in their countries and protection to foreigners,
thereby obliging the Administration of the Protectorate to intervene, thev
must pay hut and gun taxes as the result of not being able to manage
their own affairs. As circumstances render it advisable, no doubt, little by
little, no district of the Uganda Protectorate will be left without European
supervision, and consequently, theoretically, all natives will pay for the
upkeep of the Protectorate. Should this be the case, the entire theo-
retical native taxation of the whole Protectorate should, in money, suffice
to meet the entire cost of administration. But it will be a long time
before an equilibriu?n in the Uganda finances is attained in this wav only.

^h. ^-^^^

194. THE AlTHiili's ];INi;AI.i)\V ^" (( >M.M 1.->1( )N KK"s HOLSK") AT KNTKIiHK, lilll.T liY MP. SPIRE

Even supposing the entire male population of the Protectorate was ready
to pay taxes, they have not at present the money to pay in. This =can
only come to them by the opening up of the Protectorate to commerce.

260 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

Cominerce will induce the native to develop the resources of his own
land in order that he make money by the sale of its products. He will
also be able to do work for the foreign merchants and settlers, and thus
earn money by a reasonable degree of toil. So long, however, as the
natives set themselves resolutely to maintain the Protectorate and a
civilised administration over their territories, so long I consider that the
Administration should uphold native interests and welfare first of all.

Concurrently with the work carried on by this Special Commission, the
construction of the Uganda Eailway, which had been commenced in 1896,
was rapidly bringing a great influence to bear on the affairs of' the
Uganda Protectorate. The construction of the railway did not proceed as
easily and quickly as was at first hoped, and the expense of its con-
struction had greatly exceeded the original estimates. This was due, in
the first place, to the absence of any really certain and scientific informa-
tion regarding the country which the railway was to traverse. With the
exception of Sir John Kirk, no one on the Eailway Committee had had
any knowledge from personal experience of inner Africa, and the engineers
selected for the designing and construction of the line were only hitherto
acquainted with India, Mexico, and other tropical countries where the local
conditions are really very different to the deserts, steppes, swamps, rainy
plateaux, and crumbling mountains which intervene between the sea-coast
at Mombasa and the shores of the Victoria IS'yanza. ^^'hether the Govern-
ment of the day would have done better to have sought for trained
assistance from the colonial Government of such African colonies as Natal
is a point worth arguing by those whose only idea is to find fault with
any considerable enterprise of this kind undertaken by a Government
department. The chief engineer and manager appointed from the first —
Mr, George Whitehouse ; his second in command. My. Eawsou ; and their
colleagues on the engineering staff have patiently gra})pled with every
difficulty in turn, and have amply justified their original selection. The
work they have accomplislied is a splendid one.

Although it would appear now, on the strength of reports published by
the Foreign Office itself, that with omniscience and no engineering strike
in England the Uganda Eailway could have been constructed for about
£750,000 less than it has eventually cost, and it is clear that the former
estimates as to time were far too fiivourable, it is nearly as certain that had
any private company undertaken the railway it would have fallen into just
the same blunders, and perhaps have ended half-way to the lake in hopeless
bankruptcy. The great difficulty which attended tlie first four years of
railway construction was the almost total absence of local labour. The coast
population of East Africa did not care for work on the railway or for steady

262

THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

work under contract of any description. Beyond the belt of coast population
the human inhabitants of the wildernesses which the railway had to traverse
from fortv miles at the back of Mombasa to the frontier of the Uganda
Protectorate were very few in numbers (anywhere near the line), weakened

196. THE FIRST BOW WINliOW IX ENTEBBE

by a succession of droughts and famines, and by no means disposed to
work hard with their hands at that period when the European was viewed
with great distrust, and the remembrance of the Arab and Swahili slave-
traders was still too strong in the minds of the natives to induce, them
to believe that work of this description would be honestly paid for month
by month. Consequently the entire labour, skilled and unskilled, for the

264

THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

construction of this line, at any rate, as far as the ^lan Escarpment, had
to l)e imported from India.

But iu spite of disappointments, checks, strikes, " wash-aways," dry
watercourses that turned into persistent floods, and perennial rivers which
suddenly ceased to flow, the railway did advance, until at the time of
writiuff it is now open for traffic the wliole way to Kavirondo Bay on the

198. THE author's study AT KXTHBISE

Victoria Nyanza. The blessings of this railway to inner Africa are almost
incalculable. The journey from London to Entebbe, the capital of Uganda,,
can be effected now in twenty-four days as against something like four
months in former times. The native of Uganda who wishes to trade with
his products on the East African coast or to journey far afield in quest
of profitable employment can reach that coast by steamer and railway
in a week at the outside, and return with the same certainty and speed.
All the accumulated commerce of East Central Africa will gravitate to the
fertile shores of the Victoria Nyanza, where there is everywhere abundance
of food. From any point on the shores of that lake commercial products
can be carried, easily and cheaply, by steamer, to the railway terminus,
and can be transported by the railway (it is to be hoped at reasonable

266 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

rates) in from two days to a week to Mombasa, whence the produce can
be shipped to all parts of the world. Consequently, the railway has
almost entirely abolished the caravan trade througliout a considerable
slice of East Central Africa. This has done away with the need for slaves,
and with the hardships which even the paid porters engaged on the East
African coast had often to endure on journeys through deserts and swamps
and over frosty mountains to Uganda.

It is true that considerable scope still exists for subsidiary trade
caravans starting away from any }ioint on the Uganda Eailway to the
north, south, and west. But not only is the need for the use of human
porterage further curtailed by the facilities for water transport offered by
the vast area of the Victoria Nyanza and the not far distant waters of
the navigable Victoria Nile (with Lake Kioga, etc.), of Lake Dweru and
Albert Edward, and of Lake Albert and the navigable White Nile ; but
even then a start from a railway base, where all the comforts and
requisites for a caravan journey can be obtained, to any point in the
territories of the L'ganda Protectorate, is a far less uncomfortable, lengthy,
and unhealthy undertaking than the old journey from ^Mombasa for 600
or 700 miles inland to the nearest point at which profitable trade could be
conducted. ^Moreover, the railway, as it passes through the disappointing
territories of British East Africa, will cause these territories to cease their
disappointment, just as French railways in Tunisia and Algeria are making
the very desert habitable and profitable. Alongside the line settlements
secure from the raids of lawless tribes, provided with the certainty of
water, provisions, and communication with the outer world, are springing
up ; cultivation and irrigation are producing crops and maintaining live-
stock, which the railway rapidly turns into money. The natives are
acquiring a taste for regular, well-paid work, and have an incentive to
work in the (to them) inexpressible delight of travelling at a rapid pace
in a third-class carriage.

So far from leading to the extermination of the game, the railway has
actually come to the fore as a means of game preservation. It is really
amazing how all the wild animals, except perhaps the lion, have taken to
the railway. The big and small game soon realised the fact that they
were shot at less and less from the railway line, and finally not at all,
while on the other hand the lions, and perliaps leopards, were perturbed
by the noise of the train, and began to shun the line, for, as regards shooting,
exceptions were naturally made in their favour ! However strict have been
the Grame Kegulations in force for the protection of game along the line,
naturally no restriction has been placed on the shooting of lions, leopards,
and hysenas. Whether or not these deductions are fanciful, the plain fact
remains to be testified to by any one who now takes a journey on the

THE SPECIAL COMMISSIOX, ETC. 207

Uganda Ixailway tluit from the windows of his carriage he can see
as the train crosses certain tracts positive zoological gardens let loose.
Rhinoceroses, sometimes e\'en ele])hants, zebras, gnus, hartebeests, gazelles,
reedbuck, waterliuck, oribi, and ostriches can be noted by an observant
traveller as the train whizzes o\er the Athi Plains, np tlie Kift \'alley,
and over the green downs of Njoro.

The Uganda Ixaihvay will carry much goods and manv passengers for
the Government of (lerman East Africa, and, not improbably, material
and men for the nortli-eastern part of the Congo Free State ; for, as a
counterpart to the railway, a fleet of steamers managed in connection with
it will be placed on Lake A'ictoria. Tlvis will enable the management of
the railway to land goods and passengers within a week from the East
African coast at any part of (lierman East Africa on tlie sliores of the
Victoria Nyanza. In like manner passengers can be landed at ports on
the west coast of the lake, and if good roads for wheeled traffic are main-
tained between the west coast of the Victoria Nyanza and the district of
Toro, a week's journey may convey passengers past the slopes of Kuwenzori
to the frontier of the Congo Free State. The same tim^ might also take
them to Lake Alliert Nyanza, from which steamers could convey them to
the end of navigation on the Upper Nile. It is a fairly safe prophecy to
make that the Uganda Kailway in ten years' time will be returning a
handsome profit on its working expenses — such a profit as may enable a
prudent Government to gradually pay back to the nation the original
cost of its construction. In any case the railway was the inevitable con-
comitant of the declaration of the British Protectorate over Uganda. The
justification for this Protectorate, and the possible profit it may bring to
the British Empire, will be discussed in the next chapter.

With the present organisation of the Uganda Protectorate — an organi-
sation which one cannot but regard in some respects as provisional — there
is the following system of government : A Commissioner and Consul-Geueral
appointed by tlie Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs represents the
Imperial Government. He is at the same time (theoretically) the
Commander-in-Chief of the armed forces. Under him is a Deputy Com-
missioner. Thea follow three sub-commissioners, who are placed over
three of the six * provinces into which the Protectorate is divided
(Uganda proper being the " home " province Avhere the Commissioner and
Deputy Commissioner reside). Next in civil rank come the collectors'
assistants, from amongst whom would be chosen the collectors of districts.
(The duties of a collector I have already explained. He is political
officer, magistrate, and collector of Im})erial revenues in a district, or it

* Now five, since the Eastern Province was transferred (A] nil 1st, 1<J02) to East
Africa.

268 THE SPECIAL COMMISSIOX, ETC.

may be at a single station.) Finally there are the assistant collectors,
some of whom are placed alone in charge of secondary stations in a
district; others reside at the same station with a collector or a sub-
commissioner, and assist the officer of superior rank. Besides these
officials employed in the administration of })olitical affairs and of justice
and the collection of revenue, there are others employed exclusively
in the Treasury or Accounts Department, and others in the Secretariat.
There is a Survey Office for the general survey of the Protectorate lands,
a Scientific Department which presides over agriculture, the collection of
meteorological records, the supervision of the regulations for protecting
game, etc. In addition to the collectors who act as magistrates, there
is a special Judicial Department, at the head of which is placed a legal
vice-consul who is Judge and Chief Justice for the whole of the Uganda
Protectorate. There is a Public Works Department and a Transport
Department, which, even after the completion of the railway and the
steamers, will attend to the upkeep of main roads and transport of goods
and passengers in the countries west and north of the Victoria ]S'yanza.

As regards the armed forces, there are the Military and ^larine Depart-
ments, The Marine Department, at present under the able direction of
Mr. C. W. Fowler, late K.N., C.M.Gr., has under its control the recently
constructed steamer William Mackinnon, two steam-launches, and a large
sailing vessel. The Williftm Mackinnon is armed with a powerful gun^
and could be used if necessary for such elementary naval warfare as might
occur on the Victoria Xyanza. As the transport facilities on the lake
increase by the establishment of a mercantile marine, so no doubt the
official Marine Department of the Protectorate will confine itself mainly
to the policing and patrolling of the waterways. The little army in
Uganda is placed under the direction of an Inspector-General (who'
controls all the armed forces of the Foreign Office Protectorates^, of a
Commandant — at })resent Colonel A. H. Coles, D.S.O. — and a staff of
something like thirty English officers, including those of the Indian
contingent. The force under this department consists of the 4th Battalion
King's African Kitles (Negro soldiers — Sudanese, Eaganda, Somalis, etc.),
the 5th K.A.K. (Indian contingent) — about 400 Panjabis and Sikhs from
the Indian Army; and the constabulary or police, some 1,060 men
(Negroes) under British })olice officers, who are non-commissioned officers
from the British Army.

The present administrative capital of the Uganda Protectorate is at
Entebbe, on the peninsula of that name which juts out into the Victoria
Nyanza, twenty miles ^outh of the native ca})ital of ^Nlengo,

Up to the present time the administrations of the East Africa
and Uganda Protectorates have remained separate, each answerable direct

THE SPECIAL COM:\riSSTOX, ETC.

209

to the Foreign Office. The Protectorate of Zaiiziljar is a native state
theoretically administered In- the Sultan and the ministers Nvhom he
appoints. The representative of the British Government at Zanziliar is
at the present moment also Commissioner and Consul-General for Kast
Africa, a portion of the coast-lands of the East African Protectorate
being regarded as part of the Sultan of Zanzibar's dominions, and
administered to some extent in his name. This coast Province of
Sayyidieh is still subject to the inconvenient and harassing treaty rights
of other European Powers, rights which were unfortunately not got rid
of (as they should have been) when the British Government assumed a

200. THE SS. U-U.LIAM MACKIXXOX

Protectorate over Zanzibar. Negotiations for the aliolitiou of these special
treaty rights are in progress with Germany and France, but have not,
I believe, been yet brought to a successful issue. Consequently a small
portion of the East Africa Protectorate is being administered urder rather
exceptional conditions as though it were a portion of the territories ruled
by the Sultan of Zanzibar.

In addition to these three East African Protectorates may be mentioned
Somaliland, a territory immediately opposite Aden, which consists of a con-
siderable slice of the Xorthern Somali coast-lands. To any one able to take
an unprejudiced and large-minded view of the present situation in East
Africa, it must appear highly desii-able that all of these four Protectorates —

270 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

or at any rate the Protectorates of Uganda and East Africa — should be
placed under one administration, conducted by a competent official with the
rank of a High Commissioner. Uganda is merely the hinterland of P'ast
Africa. East Africa is mainly valuable as being the region furnishing
the best seaports for the outlet of the products of Uganda. The postal
services of the two Protectorates were already fused under the Special
Commission. It is difficult to see why the fusion of other departments
should be delayed. It would lead to a decided economy in the number
of officials, to the complete absence of any further friction caused by
the emulation of two rival Protectorates as to which should show the
highest local revenue, and to a single policy being adopted throughout
on all questions of importance affecting the natives. At the present
time appeals from the law courts of these two Protectorates are sent
to Zanzibar, where the judicial officers appointed to try these appeals
know little or nothing of native laws and customs and the general
conditions of inner Africa. Moreover, Zanzibar, like Mombasa and
Entebbe (or any other spot in the Kingdom of Uganda), is not
thoroughly healthy for the residence of Europeans— very much the
reverse. We have, on the other hand, in the Eastern Province of the
Uganda Protectorate a remarkable area of absolutely healthy country.
Apart from the Nandi Plateau— wherein I have fancifully sketched out a
territory as large as Belgium, and almost without existing human
inhabitants, which should become a future White Man's Colony — apart
from the Nandi Plateau, the area of absolutely healthy country is not
exhausted. The whole Kift Valley, from Naivasha on the south to near
Lake Baringo on the north, is almost equally healthy, though not
equally well adapted for the handing over en bloc to the white man.
Why should not, one asks — and no effective negative reply can be given
— a central Government for all British East Africa be founded at some
suitable spot on the railway, on the Nandi Plateau, some Simla of East
Africa, with an absolutely healthy European climate ?

An administrative capital founded here would be only thirty-six hours'
journey even by the existing slow trains from jNIombasa, and therefore
twenty days from London, two days from Zanzibar, seven days from British
Somaliland, two days from the administrative capital of Uganda, ten days
from the Congo Free State boundary, the Albert Nyanza, and the Albertine
Nile, and not more than three weeks even by the existing means of
communication from the frontier posts on the Uganda side of the Egyptian
Sudan. The Eastern Province of the Uganda Protectorate might become the
home province of this great East African territory, in the heart of which
would reside the Governor-General or High Commissioner. Separate com-
missioners might still be appointed for the special management of Uganda

THE SPECIAL COMMISSIOX, ETC.

271

(to reside at Entebbe), of the Coast Province (at Moniliasa), at Zanziluir
(to supervise the administration of the Sultaii's Government), anrl at
Berbera (to conduct the affairs of British i^omalihind). But the budgets
of the Imperial expenditure in all these Protectorates might be combined
in one by the Treasury of the High Commissioner on the ?sandi Plateau.
Here also might sit a Supreme Court for East Africa. From this post
also might be managed the Uganda Kailway and the direction of all the
Imperial forces in the East African territories.

JOl. (IN I UK HECK OF THE lyiLLIAM MACKIXSOS

This plan would certainly ensure the regular and good government and
orderly finances of the British Protectorates in East Africa. It would
also be attended to here that the Uganda Pailway was maintained and
conducted not only with a view to the eventual return to the British
taxpayer of the money expended on its construction, but also in strict
relation to the needs and requirements of East Africa. It is obvious that
a direction carried on from East Africa would be better acquainted with
the needs of the Protectorates and the best metliods to be adopted on
the railway than a managing committee meeting in London. The High

272 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

Oommissioner also, being responsible for the welfare of the whole of British
East Africa, would be actuated by no petty feelings of special interest in
l^ganda, in ■Mombasa, in Somaliland, or in Zanzibar to champion one part
of the territories under his government more tlian another. The
adoption of this policy would relieve the Foreign Office of a great deal of
responsibility.

In concluding this general summary of the history of the Uganda
Protectorate something of interest may be said about the Christian
propaganda which has been carried on there since 1877 and the present
organisation of the three missionary societies working in the Protectorate.

The whole of the Kingdom or Province of Uganda, with the exception
of the little District ofButarabala and the suburbs of ^lengo and Entebbe,
is nominally Christian, the peo[)le of this religion belonging to either the
Roman or the Anglican Churches. I write "nominally," because no doubt
a large number of the peasants still remain pagan in their ideas and
beliefs, although ostensibly they have followed their chiefs in a tacit
acceptance of Christianity, or, in a very much less degree, of Islam. The
accompanying map will show the general distribution of religions in the
Protectorate. Elsewhere than in Uganda proper, Christianity has made
considerable progress in Toro, and is rapidly conquering much of Unyoro,
Ankole, and Busoga. ()u the other hand, it has al)solutely failed to take
root in any way whatever in the Kavi rondo countries or in a general way
throughout the eastern part of tlie Protectorate and in the ^'ile Province.
In the last-named division no attempts at Christian propaganda have been
made as yet since the Austrian Poman Catholic Mission came to complete
failure some thirty years ago.

The Anglican Mission under the Church Missionary Society is presided
over locally at the present day by the Bishop of Uganda, the Right Rev.
Alfred Tucker, P.P. The staff w^orking within the boundaries of the
Protectorate was as follows in the beginning of 1901 : 22 clergy, 2 medical
missionaries, 13 lay missionaries, and 22 ladies attached to the mission as
teachers, nurses, etc. This gives a total European staff of 59. The
number of stations at which the Church Missionary Society is working
is 20. The native Anglican Church working in connection with the
Church Missionary Society in Uganda lias a staff of 27 clergy, 53 licensed
readers, and 2,408 native teachers, male and female. This staff" is entirely
maintained by the contributions of the native Church. The provinces or
districts of the Protectorate in which the missionary work of the Anglican
Church is being carried on are the Kingdom of Uganda, the Districts of
Unyoro, Toro, Busoga, Ankole, Bukedi, and Elgon.

As regards education, the Anglican Mission has established schools in

THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

273

202. TllK iril.LI.lM M.UKIXMt.X AM) ■IIIK
IVIMFRED AT KNTEIilSK

)\ I.KN \i I .\ I DAU

connection with its
above-en nmerated sta-
tions, at wliich children
are taught to read and
write in their own
language. At Mengo
and one or two of the
higher schools additional
instruction is given in
English, arithmetic,
geography, and other
subjects likely to be of
use to the more intelli-
gent amongst the pupils.
At an average of fifteen
schools in 1900, 5,935
boys and 4,776 * girls
received instruction vary-
ing from reading and
writing in the native language only, to somewhat advanced instruction
in English, arithmetic, geography, etc. During the years from 1899
to 1901 125,737 books (religious and educational) were sold by the
Church Missionary Society to natives of the Protectorate at ])rices
amounting in the aggregate to £2,459.

From statistics furnished to me by the Anglican Mission in Uganda,
I should estimate that at least 200,000 natives of Uganda and the adjoining
districts have been taught to read by this mission since its establishment.
At the educational establishments of this mission there have been sold
during the same period of two years 7,448 note- and exercise-books and
83,490 sheets of writing-paper. Bishoj) Tucker states : " Within a com-
])aratively short time it will be possible to sup{)ly the Government offices
and mercantile community with clerks, inter})reters, storekeepers, etc.,
and the Eaganda will be able thus to take their proper place in the
administration and commercial life of their country."

Regarding industrial work carried on by the same mission — a work
commenced in 1877 by Alexander Mackay, whose name should always be
held in reverent and affectionate luemory by Europeans and natives of the
Protectorate alike — this branch of the mission was specially reorganised
under Mr. K. Borup in 1899. At tlie industrial establishments of the
Anglican Mission there are being taught at the present time carpentry,
joinery, wood-turning, blacksmith's woi'k, and printing. Those received for

* In 1901 12,363 children of both sexes received instruction.
VOL. I. 18

274 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

industrial training vary in age from fifteen to nineteen years. In 1900
the })rinting department of the mission turned out 100,000 impressions
from four })rinting presses, which are regularly running. A great deal of
(Tovernment printing work for the political, administrative, and military
departments was successfully undertaken. A little paper called Uganda Notes
is now produced, independently of the mission, at one of the presses, by native
printers. It should be added, from my personal knowledge, that instruction
in reading and writing is given to the natives, and a good deal of printing
is conducted in the following native languages, which have been reduced to
writing in the first place by the Anglican and Koman Catholic missionaries :
Luganda, Urunyoro (which serves as the common language for the whole of
the Western Province), Lusoga, and several distinct dialects and languages
in the District of Bukedi. Mr. Borup, at the head of the Industrial ^Mission,
states : "' I find the Baganda as apt and quick to learn industrial pursuits
as the average boy in England. ... I should say indeed that they
were rather (juicker in intelligence than Europeans, were I not afraid of
being taken for an enthusiast. To take printing as an instance : after less
than two years' training I am able to leave the actual working of the
printing ofiice — namely, type-setting, making uj) pages, locking up forms,
correcting after proofs have been read and marked, getting the press ready
for printing, distributing type, cutting paper, doing light bookbinding,
etc., entirely to the Baganda youths trained in the mission."

An extensive medical work is carried on by the Church Missionary
Society in Uganda. A large and admirably appointed hospital has been
erected at Mengo, at which in the year 1900 there were 33,983 out-patients
and 511 in-patients. The hospital contains sixty-one beds, and its staff
consists of Dr. A. E. Cook, B.A., M.D. ; Dr. J. H. Cook, INI.B., F.R.C.S. ; Dr.
E. H. Bond, ]M.D.; an English sister, three qualified English nurses, and five
native assistants.

The Roman Church is represented by two missionary societies in the
Uganda Protectorate — that of the White feathers, which is mainly French,
and has its headquarters in the regencv of Tunis and in Algeria ; and the Mill
Hill ^Mission, which is English, and proceeds from the well-known Roman
Catholic Missionary College at Mill Hill, Middlesex. The Mission of the White
Fathers is presided over in the Uganda Protectorate by ]M on seigneur Henri
Streicher, Bishop of Tabarca and Apostolical Vicar of the Victoria Nyanza.

The first missionaries of the White Fathers entered Uganda in 1879.
These missionaries met with a very cordial rece])tion from JNIutesa, and
were endowed by him with a small property. This mission underwent
the same vicissitudes and dangers in the years previous to the institution
of the British Protectorate that were undergone by the agents of the
Church Missionary Society. In 1894, owing to the more peaceful

THE SPECIAL COM:\riSSIOX, ETC

275

«w*4tlMft

HOISK. KiAMiA

state of affairs which
commenced, the mission
was able to extend its
work in the direction
of Unyoro, and in tlie
following year to Toro.
At the present time its
stations are confined to
these two districts, and
to the greater part of
the Kingdom of Uganda.
The ^lission of the White
Fathers had fourteen >ta-
tions established in 1900,
nearly all of them within
the Kingdom of Uganda

and in the .Sese Islands, with two stations in Toro and one in Unyoro. At
Eubaga, a suburb of Mengo, there is a conventual establishment for the
education of girls. The aflfiiirs of the mission are directed in the Uganda Pro-
tectorate by a bishop, thirty-seven priests, eiglit lay brothers, and six sisters.

The French Mission possesses a magnificent stone cathedral at Eubaga
{Mengo). All its fourteen stations are built in brick, the bricks having
been made by the missionaries themselves, aided by Baganda workers.
The stations are surrounded by magnificent gardens producing abundance
■of fruits and vegetables, in the bestowal of which the missionaries are
very generous. It is the efi'ort of the White Fathers to ja-ocure from
the country itself everything which they need for the maintenance of
their mission and for their own sustenance. Thus, alcohol which is required
for the di.-?})ensary pharmacy and for industrial purposes is distilled by
the missionaries themselves from the juice of the banana, whilst they
likewise make all the oil they require for their lamps from sesamum seeds.

The mission has founded two principal hospitals, and medical attendance
was given to 82,974 patients in 1900. An asylum for lepers has been
founded at the principal station of the missiou in Buddu, and was occujded
by fifteen lepers in 1900. The number of the registered and baptised
Christians on the books of the French ^fission in 1900 was 50,472. There
are stated to be twice as many catechumens who are going through a
course of preparation before baptism. Apart from the churches at the
fourteen mission stations, there are 412 oratories or chapels maintained
by the native adherents of this mission in the villages. Twenty-four
schools are maintained by the French Mission in which teaching is
^iven by the Fathers; 2,516 children of both sexes were receiving

276 THE SPECIAL COMMISSION, ETC.

education at these schools when the last census was taken. This mission
congratulates itself on the success it has recently met with in training-
native women to be teachers in village schools. These subsidiary centres
of instruction given through native teachers are said to amount to as
many as 700. There is a kind of native college established at Kisubi,
from which important results in education are expected. Teaching is
given to pupils of superior intelligence in Latin and in English, in
arithmetic and geography. A certain amount of Kiswahili is being taught
to those pupils who may be likely to obtain positions as interpreters. A
gymnasium has been erected at Kisubi, close to the lake shore. In
a canal which is thought to be secure from the attacks of crocodiles or
hippopotamuses swimming is taught, and exercise in paddling canoes
takes place. ()n the greens attached to the educational institute at the
same place, football, single-stick, and other games are encouraged.

The English Eoman Catholic Mission, under the able direction of
the Right Kev. Henry Hanlon, D.D., Bishop of Teos and Apostolical
Vicar of the Upper Nile, has been too short a time in existence to have
been able to pi'oduce the results attained by the Anglican and French
Missions already described. The Mill Hill Mission is most strongly
represented in Busoga, though it has also stations in the eastern part of
the Kingdom of Uganda and at the capital, Mengo. The Fathers of this
mission are chiefly English, Irish, and Dutch. Bishop Hanlon is entrusted
with the education of the two Eoman Catholic princes of the Uganda
royal family, who stand very near to the throne in line of succession.
There is some idea, I believe, of Bishop Hanlon's work being extended
in the eastern and central parts of the Protectorate, where at present no
attempt has been made to carry on a Christian propaganda.

As regards Islam, its recognised head in the Kingdom of Uganda is
the Prince Mbogo, son of Suna, a former king of Uganda, and great-
uncle of the little king. In the religious settlement wdiicli was commenced
by Sir Gerald Portal and terminated by the work of my Special Commission,
a district of Uganda (Butambala) was set apart for ^Muhammadans to
settle in (without prejudice to Christians), and its administration is
entrusted to one of the recognised chiefs of districts who is a ]Muhammadan.
A large mosque has recently been built at Mengo by Prince Mbogo, and
mosques exist elsewhere in the Protectorate where there is any community
of Moslems who desire to establish a place of worship. Besides the
District of Butambala and suburbs of JNIengo and Entebbe in Uganda
proper, Muhammadans are chiefly concentrated in the south-eastern
division of Ankole, in parts of Busoga and Unyoro, in the vicinity of
the Eiver Nile in the Nile Province, and in the country of I^atuka.

Scale 1 4.000,000 or K3 13 Md f.

REFERENCE NO'i'e'i
People with a uague 6c//
Sky, but little or no i
in uiitchcraft (rather
omens. Practically no

Pagans with a strong
named spirits (Ancestor,
and in witchcraft by
' I A maleuolent religion

Muhammadanism, often u

Christians - Roman,
Christians - Anglican and

PLATE V

The whole of the Protectorate is
the Anglican Bishopric of "Uganda

The Protectorate from the point o
Christianity is diuided into the Apos
of the Upper Nile on the East,
Victoria Nyanza on the West. The b
the two is a line drawn from Murch
Victoria Nyanza through Mengo ali
River to the Sezibwa, and thence a/a.. , ''Jj
Nile across Lake Albert to Mahagii ^s^^,J^ SOI*-^^
and East of this line is the Apostoli]; * " • *
the Upper Nile and the English 1
mission. To the South and West is
Vicariate of the Victoria Nyanza
Roman Catholic Mission.

--Mi'

UGANDA PROTECTORATE
PREVAILING RELIGIONS AND FORMS OF BELIEF.

Tke EinViagh Geo^apkral

CHAPTEK IX
COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

TO avoid lengthy titles and adopt plain ones, I have headed this
chapter " Commercial Prospects." In reality, however, I cannot
help making it a kind of apologia on the whole question of recent
political enterprise in Africa. I am only too well aware that the British
taxpayer in every class, the earnest philanthropist who repudiates
commercial gain as a justification for j)lanting the British flag — the editor
of Truth, in short, whom the anxious advocate for extending British rule
always has in his mind's eye as the person to whom he mentally addresses
his justification — are asking now with renewed force whether the statesmen
of both ])arties between 1885 and 1894 did not gravely blunder when
they yielded to public sentiment and assumed for Great Britain heavv
responsibilities in tropical and unhealthy Africa. These critics point to
the wars which have occurred between the British forces and the natives
as a proof that our protection was not desired and had to be imposed by
force. They single out an individual atrocity as a sample of the white
man's daily conduct, and having thus shown the fallacy from the philan-
thropical point of view of our expensive efforts to administer an area in
tropical Africa which equals the united extent of Europe without Russia,
they brush aside the question of commercial gain either by declaring it
to be non-existent and not likely to come to pass, or by alleging that it
is no justification for that shedding of blood which seems to have been
inevitable in the founding of these Protectorates. I will deal later with
the commercial question. Let me say something on the philanthropic
aspect. There is, it is true, also a political justification for some of these
Protectorates. Their proximity to places like Aden and Egypt, or their
long connection with Indian commerce, might be considered some small
measure of justification for the expenditure of money in their acquirement.
But this alone would certainly not be sufficient to justify the lengths to
which we have gone. I will confine myself, therefore, to the })hilanthropic
and commercial results of this policy, and endeavour to show that they
have not been unworthy of the sacrifices made.

277

278 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

Those who read the works of the English, German, and French
explorers who travelled at the back of our West African colonies on the
Niger, in the Western Sudan, and about Lake Chad down to, let us say, six
years ago, must admit that unless one and all of these travellers had been
deliberately lying, the bloodshed and misery that went on in these regions
was incomparably more awful than the whole sum of " atrocities " inflicted
by ill-conducted Europeans, or produced by European warfare with the
natives incidental to the extension of European rule over the western third
of Africa. I for one, with every desire to be unpn-ejudiced, cannot come
to any other conclusion than that tlie natives of Nigeria have immensely
gained in happiness and security of life and property wherever we have
undertaken the direct administration and control of the countries in which
they live. Those who may desire to realise what the condition of the
natives was before British control of some kind was established in Nigeria
should espjecially read the works of Barth, Kohlfs, and Baikie, and the
African (Slave Trade) Blue Books from 1866 to 1884: 200, 300 Negroes
may have been killed in a war which abolished the bloody rule of Benin,
but this abolished o'Sgime caused the death, often under circumstances of
horrible torture, of at least 1,000 negroes per annum, while under this
dominion no one but the king or the sorcerer dared to grow rich or had
any security that the property accumulated by his industry would remain
with him and descend to his children. Visit the rivers of the Niger
Delta now and see if you can state with truth that the negroes are not
happy, numerous, and commencing to lead a civilised and comfortable life.
Then, again, in British Central Africa. Prior to the effective develop-
ment of British control continual loss of life was going on amongst the
natives. The Arabs and their adherents, the Muhammadan Yaos, traded
and raided all through the eastern part of the territory for slaves, this
slave-raiding resulting in a very great loss of life, whilst the miseries
endured by the slaves on their way to the coast have scarcely, if at all,
been exaggerated by travellers like Livingstone. Mlozi, the Arab raider
who lost his life in the final struggle at the north end of Lake Nyasa, must
have been responsible in his time for the death of something like 10,000
negroes of the surrounding Wankonde tribes. The Arab often killed for tlie
mere lust and joy of killing. His black slaves and soldiers shared his ferocity.
Captive women were needlessly murdered in cold blood. Their children
were torn from them and thrown into the camp fires or spitted on spears.
A large number of boys were mutilated to provide eunuchs for Muham-
madan harims. Bands of Zulus who had left South Africa owing to the
civil wars in the early part of the nineteenth century established kingdoms
which involved jierpetual bloodshed in internecine fighting and aggressive
attacks on other tribes in the territories west of Lake Nyasa. Portuguese

COMMERCIAL iMKJSPECTS 279

half-castes of (ioaiicse extraction set tliem.selves iij) as independent chiefs
on the Central Zambezi and slew, with the same ferocity as the Arab, those
whom they could not enslave. There was scarcely a wilderness which one
crossed in the early days of the British Central Africa Protectorate which
did not bear traces, old or recent, of destroyed vilhiges and abandoned
plantations, and murdered men and women. To possess a few cattle or
to have cultivated a little more corn than was absolutelv necessary for
the food of one's family was suflficient to draw down on one the attacks
of robbers or the pressure of one's own chief A warlike tribe like the
Awemlia would devastate the couniries round their home over a ring fifty
miles broad, and of immense circumference.

If you \i>it the Kazembe's cai)ital near Lake Alweru at the present
day, you will still see a large proportion of the poixilation without hands
or without ears, or mutilated in some other fashion, these being the
punishments or acts of spite to which the native ruler was chiefly inclined.
I should think, until the British Protectorate became effective, live }ter
cent, of the Negro population of these countries was killed every vear by
the poison ordeal. In most districts there was not a single woman of fifty
but had had perhaps ten times in her life to flee into the bush and conceal
herself there half-starved, whilst her native villagfe was in the hands of
slave-raiders, invading Zulus, or the soldiery of her own chief, wlio were
amusing themselves and their master by a little rapine and shedding of
blood. In the wars which were necessary with Arab, Yao, and Zulu to
found the British Central Africa Protectorate — wars, it mu.st be remembered,
carried on in the main by natives of the Protectorate fighting under our
flag — there cannot have been killed from first to last moi-e than 1.500
people on both sides. The subsequent growth of the population is sufficient
witness to the gain in human life and happiness which has been purchased
by the death of those 1,500 men.

It has been the same in Uganda. If one reads the works of Speke,
of Stanley, of the Kev. W. P. Ashe, of Lugard, and Colvile, one realises
what a bloody country was the Kingdom of Uganda before it came imder
British control. The flow of human blood must have been such a common
sight as to render the Baganda singularly callous. Speke gives a pathetic
account of Mutesa's wives being hurried off to a cruel execution for most
trivial reasons, raising their wailing cries of "0 my lord, O my master,"
as they passed him on the way. Sometimes the reasons for these death
sentences were that a wife had failed to close the door as she passed out
of a courtyard or she had pulled the door to when to do so was a breach
of native etiquette. The worship of the spirits in Uganda and Busoga
involved constant human sacrifice. At the accession of a new chief in
Busoga disgusting mutilations took jilace of young men and virgins, which

280 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

must often have resulted in their death from gangrene or loss of blood.
In the countries speaking the speech of Unyoro native custom positively
required the suicides of wives on their husbands' graves. But the warfare
that took place ! — the constant loss of life that was due to civil wars
or the aggressions on or by other states ; raids from Uganda into Unyoro
to obtain extra wives for the chiefs, raids from Unyoro into Toro and
Ankole to snatch cattle and seize women ; then again, farther east,
whole tribes wiped out of existence. This has occurred again and again.
The population of parts of Kavirondo on the slopes of Mount Elgon, of the
Nyaudo Valley, and of much of the Nandi Plateau has been absolutely
extinguished — men, women, and children being slain, and the remnant
starving to death in the bush. One can only say that in every district
there prevailed absolute insecurity for life or property. There may have
been the most carefully framed native laws and customs inflicting on the
negro's daily life an amount of etiquette which we should find intolerable ;
but although these may have secured the law and order of a village, they
were no defence against aggression from a rival village, or the downward
swoop of some robber tribe who scarcely even felt the common tie of
humanity with the peaceful cultivators whose blood they shed with positive
enjoyment, whose habitations they laid waste, and whose cattle they stole.
Famines, epidemics of smallpox or of bubonic plague, attacks of a virulent
dysentery caused by bad water and semi-starvation, would slay here
(3,000, here 10,000, elsewhere wipe out a whole nation. The cattle plague
would come down from the north, and since there was no central Grovern-
ment to check it or to segregate infected herds, disease would wipe off all
the cattle from a country as large as Wales, reducing its inhabitants, who
had hitherto depended solely on the produce of their cattle, sheep, and
goats, to starvation or a disastrous emigration.

As regards famines, 1 may be told that British rule in India has of
late been coincident with terrible famines. This is true : but the people
who put this forward do not stop to inquire how bad the famine would
have been if there were no British Government, or whether the famine
could ever have taken place but for the enormous and unchecked increase
of population which has taken place under British rule, whereby India
possesses almost more inhabitants than she can support. As regards Uganda
and Busoga and the countries to the north of Mount Elgon, where famine
has occurred since our acquaintance with those countries, it lias been of a
kind which will be henceforth certainly preventable under a well-organised
Administration. Warfare and the deflection of cultivators to un})rofitable
fighting was one reason. Partial failure of rain was another; but this last
would have been of but little effect if the natives liad been taught to
irrigate their fields frou) streams wliieli never fail.

COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS 2«1

Freedom of religion has certainly been one result of a liritisli
Administration in Uganda. A man may now be Catholic or Protestant,
Muhammadan or pagan, without fear of his life or without loss of his
property. I am honestly convinced, and so I think would be any
unprejudiced observer, that so far as happiness of the natives goes, our
Protectorate over Uganda has been justified, as it has been elsewhere in
Africa.

It is not within my province to pronounce on the work of other
nations on the same lines. I should certainly say that the condition of
Tunis, Senegal, and Dahome under the P>ench was a hundred times
better than the state of those countries when entirely left to the devices
of native rulers. Here and there a native of Unyamwezi may feel the
heavy hand of a German sergeant ; but the people know, at any rate,
that as long as they pay their taxes and obey the law their lives and
property are secure. But I feel we have quite enough to do to look
after our own possessions and spheres of influence in Africa without
turning aside to criticise the work of other nations. Until we are sure
that not a fault, not an error of judgment, remains in our own rule,
that there is not a thing left undone that ought to be done, we may
save ourselves the waste of time and energy involved in trying to show
how badly the French, Germans, Belgians, Italians, and Portuguese
manage their possessions. Let their work be judged eventuallv by its
results. If the results are good, then the work cannot have been
wholly bad. If all these nations are treating the natives abominably, or,
as is sometimes complained of the P\ench in Senegal, with mistaken
kindness, then no doubt the expensive failure of their efforts will be
sufficient punishment to the countries at fault. We have at any rate
secured a sufficient share of Africa in which to put our own philanthropic
theories in practice, and above all in which to give our commerce
absolutely free play.

In theory I maintain that inasmuch as we entered upon the assump-
tion of Protectorates over East and Central Africa mainly in the interests
of the natives, to put down the slave trade, and in the case of some
countries to establish British protection at the natives' request, in
preference to allowing them to comie under the sphere of another I\)wer ;
as the immediate outcome of these Protectorates is of benefit prinri}»ally
to their Xegro inhabitants, it is to the natives that we should look in
the first instance to provide according to their means the funds neces-
.sary to maintain an economical but efTf'ecti\e Administration. If every
adult male native in these Protectorates paid 8s. a year in taxation, there
would be little, if any, need to resort to the Treasury of the United
Kingdom for funds to supplement the cost of administration. There

282 CO:\[:\[ERCTAL PROSPECTS

would also be no cause for the British taxpayer to complain if cofi'ee or
rubber, gold or ivory, or all these substances combined, failed to provide
a lucrative commerce for the British market. The Protectorate would
then be administered puiely in the interests of the black man. He
at least, in the climate of the country wherein he was born, does not
suffer from the diseases which afflict the European who attempts to
settle in parts of tropical Africa: lie at least is happy and content if
he can maintain f]ocks and herds of cattle, sheep, and goats, and grow
food-stuffs suited to his country and his palate. But the native in
nianv cases has no cash with which to pay his taxes. He can only
earn the money by working, say, for a month, or by collecting and
selling rubber, coffee, or some other saleable substance which he can
acquire without robbing other people ; or he may breed cattle for the
provision market, or collect oil which is suflficiently valuable to meet the
cost of transport to the European markets.

But do these countries of Uganda produce substances of sufficient
value to induce the European or Asiatic trader to buy them from the
natives or to cultivate them on his own account by means of paid
native labour ? If they do, then again the question of equilibrium in
the Protectorate finances is ultimately decided. Supposing for a moment,
however, that coffee is ultimately to be a failure in British Central
Africa,* or that the existence of coffee, cacao, ivory, oil-seeds, hides,
and live-stock in moderate quantities in Uganda is not sufficient to
maintain a large and profitable commerce, is there no other way b\'
which the natives of these Protectorates may prosper, make money,
and, with far less sacrifice than the average inhabitant of European
countries, support their own local Administration ? There is, I believe,
a method which, properly regulated, might be productive of most bene-
ficial results. In xVfrica south of the Zambezi there exists an enormous
demand for Negro labour, especially in countries where climatic and
other conditions make it impossible to use white men. If between the
Zambezi and the Nile there exist millions of black men by no means
wanting in enterprise, by no means fearing long journeys, anxious to
obtain a little money, yet anxious not permanently to leave their homes ;
between the Zambezi and the Orange Piver there are European capitalists
ready to use any amount of Negro labour at good rates of pay for the
development of the mines and of other enterprises in which the white
labourer, for climatic and other reasons, is an impossibility. It does
really seem desirable in the general interests of Africa that the agents
of the demand and the supply should be brought together.

It may be asked why, inasmuch as there is a Negro po^mlation in the
* I think no such thing.

COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS 283

South African colonies of perhaps 3,000,000 or more, tlie nu-n of tlie.-e Zuhi,
Basuto, Bechuana, and Matabele races do not themselves provi(h' all the
Negro labour tliat is necessary for the development of British South Africa
up to the Zanil)ezi. The- rc-ply to this would be, I suppose, that a good many
of the young men do go to work in the mines north of the Orange Kiver ;
while hundreds of thousands of others find work as drivers, teamsters,
labourers, domestic servants, policemen, etc. Also it might be said that
as all these natives pay the taxes levied on them and maintain themselves
in a lawful manner, it is nobody's business what they do with their spare
time. In the same way, if every native of the Eastern African Protectorates
paid his taxes in money and obtained his food and lodging in due observance
of the laws, it would be a matter entirely for his own consideration whether
he was to earn anything in excess of these requirements : he and his
congeners having each paid their yearly tax, the Protectorate they lived
in would be independent of a British subsidy, and at the very worst
would be maintained without cost to the Imperial Government lor tlie
benefit of the Negro inhabitants whose taxes supported it.

But the fact remains that the Negro races of South Africa, though
acquitting themselv-es of all liability in the way of taxation, and working suffi-
ciently to obtain the food, lodging, and simple luxuries they require, do not
suffice as a labour force for the complete development of the regions between
the Orange Eiver and the Zambezi, an additional reason for this being pro-
bably that, owing to their much more advanced condition of well-being, they
require wages far in excess of Central African natives, wiiose labour, because
less skilled, is not rated so highly. ]Many an enterprise in Rhodesia, or in
the Transvaal, or in Bechuanaland might be worked at a profitable rate and
with results more beneficial to the country if a supply of cheap native
labour could be obtained from Central Africa; yet the cheap rates paid for
this labour would seem a little fortune to the negro from Nyasaland,
Tanganyika, or Uganda. In short, the gigantic enterprises of Euro[ieans in
South Africa should contribute in a very material degree to the supp)ort
of the East and Central African Protectorates, into which should flow for
their local enrichment a fair proportion of the vast sums of money expended
daily south of the Zambezi.

I know at first sight that certain people in England, keenly interested
in the welfare of the Negro, and whose interest may sometimes border on
sentimentality, will exclaim that the theory I am propounding of turning
Central African labour into undeveloped South Africa, and South African
money into unhealthy Central Africa, is but a disguised revival of slavery.
A little reflection, however, will convince the really honest Negrophils that
this is not the case. A class of missionary now nearly extinct was bitterly
opposed to the enterprise of non-missionary Europeans in Central Africa,

284 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

and to aiiv step> which might result in the Central Africans leaving their
homes to go far afield for employment. This type of thinker, narrow if
earnest, would have preferred that the Central African native should
remain in modified savagery, without any wants or tastes than those
which could be met hy the simple instruction and pleasures of the
mission station. This class of missionary did not realise that his work,
his noble calling, was a preparatory one ; that the pupils he had taught
must take certain risks and go far afield if the race he was teaching w^ere
really to benefit by the introduction of Christian civilisation. These
missionaries, if anv of them still survive with unchanged views, would
have been opposed to the people of British Central Africa going to
Ehodesia, to the natives of Uganda visiting the East African coast or
Zanzibar. They would have preferred their converts to attain old age
in the natal village with no knowledge of the outer world, in the fear
lest by travel thev should escape the influence of the particular mission
which had reared them. But the work of the Lovedale College in South
Africa, of the Universities' Mission, the Free Church Mission, and the
Church Missionary Society, all of which bodies send their pu}»ils far and
wide, is probably overcoming such prejudices. Adherents of the Church
Missionary Society who may have been taught at Sierra Leone or in the
Niger Delta are now at «-ork on Lake Chad. Men of Lovedale College
have made their mark as teachers of fellow-negroes on Lake Nyasa.

What possible objection can the real philanthropist — the man who is
no faddist, but genuinely desires the upraising of the black races— find in
the intercourse between South and Central Africa ? Provided that the
native of Central Africa be ensured absolutely good and fair treatment,
and a short term of service is rigidly adhered to, what reasonable objection
can be taken to this interchange of laliour and capital ? In the days
when the journey from Uganda to the hidian Ocean was three months'
trani}) over unhealthy countrv and sterile desert, it would have been
undoubtedly absurd to advocate Baganda workers proceeding to South
Africa ; and in like manner, wlien the lands north and south of the
Kiver Zambezi were ravaged by Arab, Goanese, and Zulu slave-raiders, it
would have been criminal to suggest that a body of unarmed men should
have left the west coast of Lake Xyasa to march to Euluwayo. But since
all these journeys now can be made with safety and celerity and under
good health conditions, provided that absolute security exists for the fair
and humane treatment of Negro workers in South Africa, I can only see
that real good would result by this filling up of the labour market in
South Africa from the Protectorates north of the Zambezi.

A minimum rate of wages should be fixed which shall ensure to the
native of Central Africa a reasonable return for his trouble and displace-

COMMERCIAL PllOSPECTS 285

ment. The term of service should be at 'first limited to one vear, with
obligatory re})atriation at the expense of the employer; all wages to be
paid in Jiritish money, in cash, not in trade goods : medical attendance
to be furnished by the employer; and lastly a " Protector of Negro Immi-
grants" to be appointed at the headciuarters of each important district to
hear and redress grievances. Sunday should be insisted on as an ai)solute
day of rest, on which the immigrants, if of the Christian religion, mav
be able to attend to their religious exercises, and missionaries of the faith
to which they belong should not be discouraged in communicating with
them. For ^Muhammadans the day of rest might be Friday. It must
be remembered that natives from most of the districts of the I'ganda
Protectorate and East Africa, and from all l^ritish Central Africa, would
not find themselves in a very strange country when crossing the Zandiezi,
for the Negroes native to all that ])art of Africa would sjjeak languages
so closely akin to those spoken by the people who had come from these
northern regions that in a few weeks they would be able to imderstand
one another.

No compulsion should be exercised in tlie Protectorates to oblige
Negroes to go so far afield for employment, but on the other hand the local
Administrations need do nothing to discour<i<)e the natives of the country
they administer from proceeding to British South Africa vmder proper
guarantees and for reasonably short spaces of time. It is, of coui'se, to the
interests of these Protectorates that repatriation should be insisted on, so
that the native of Uganda, of Nyasa, or of East Africa may duly return
to his home and the su})port of his family and his (xovernment.

Perhaps capitalists in South Africa may be ])ermitted imder proper
guarantees to make preliminary experiments, to recruit small bands of
labourers in the Protectorates mentioned for a period of service not more
than one year south of the Zambezi. I am convinced that if the men thus
recruited returned in good health to their homes with their wages honestly
paid them in good money, and with tales of all the wonderful things they
had seen, the difficulty henceforth would be to restrain and not to encourage
the emigration of Negro labourers to the South African dominions for
temporary employment.

In the early days of the P^ast African Protectorates regulations were
drawn up — and very properly so — to control and even to hinder the
expatriation of the natives of these Protectorates, since the administrative
authorities were dissatisfied with the way in which the subjects of these
Protectorates were treated in adjoining African countries. These regulations
would have to be modified to some degree to permit of the recruiting of
the natives of Eastern and Central Africa for work in Ihitish South Africa;
but I assume that these facilities for the transfer of labour from tro[)ical

286 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

Africa to the regions south of the Zambezi would not be given until the
Imperial Government had satisfied itself that absolutely satisfactorv arrange-
ments had been made in South Africa for the protection of these imniigrants
and for their repatriation at the end of their term of service. The move-
ments of British-protected subjects would only take place between British
colonies and Protectorates, and the existing regulations would remain
strictly in force as regards those parts of Africa not under the British flag,
unless, indeed, later on arrangements of a similar nature for the protection
and repatriation of these workers were made in the possessions of other
European Powers, and His ^Majesty's (iovernment were satisfied tliat in
allowing British-protected subjects to proceed to French, (jrerman, Italian,
Portuguese, or Belgian territory satisfactory security would be obtained for
their good treatment and punctual repatriation.*

And now with regard to the commercial prospects of the L'ganda
Protectorate.

Amongst the extensive collections of rocks and minerals which were
made by my expedition, or on its behalf by officials of the Uganda
Protectorate, only one amongst all the specimens of quartz shows any signs
of gold. On the other hand, specimens of rocks from Unyoro (as will be
seen in Chapter X.) would seem to indicate a formation in that district
analogous to the gold-reef rocks of the Transvaal. The country abounds in
haematite iron, and in ordinary iron ore; there are graphite or plumbago
mines, and there is perhaps a little copper. Some of the rock specimens
collected by ^Ir. F. W. Isaac in the Bariugo District indicate the possibility
of precious stones existing in these formations. Salt of very good quality
is obtained from the salt lakes, which have become the property of the

* Colleagaes who have been kind enough to furnish me with their opinion of the
reasons for and against the East and Central African natives proceeding to British
South Africa for employment seem to think that the only criticisms which can be made
of the treatment of Negro labourers in Ehodesia at the present time are the following :
All these negroes strongly object to the compound system — namely, that by which they
are massed in prison-like barracks instead of being allowed to live each man in his own
little hut — and the excessively hard work which they have to perform at times. They
none of them complain of ill-treatment, or of being treated other than quite justly
regarding their pay, rations, and clothing. Their idea seems to be that they would not
object to this service if they worked continuously but less hardly. The system at
present seems to be that considerable periods of inaction alternate with " shifts " of
excessively hard work. The Central African Negroes would prefer, if it could be
arranged, to work continuously during their term of service, but not under such severe
stress as is occasionally applied to them. They strongly object to the prisondike life
of the compounds, and would prefer to be allowed to build small huts of their own.
If these huts Avere not too close together, and if vaccination were rigorously insisted on,
I do not think that the objections held in regard to a separate hut .system could be
maintained.

COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

287

British (iovcniincnt , in the District of Toit), in WCslcni I'nvoro, uiid also
on Kaviroiido Jjay. Whether this salt would be worth e.x])ortatioii is a
matter of douht, but it circulates tliroughout a i^ood deal of Central Africa
as a valualile article of barter. It, therefore, has an intrinsic value as a
source of revenue to the State. P)roa(lly s] leaking-, however, at the present
time no absolute discovery of un(|uestioned minei-al wealth has been made
in the Uganda Protectorate ; though it must always be remembered that
Africa is the continent of surprises, and Uganda may yet be found to
contain payable gold which, with the aid of railway and steamer tran>itort,

204.

COMJ'ANIOXS IN CAPTIVITY

VULNC KI.KI'HAN I AMI /.ICHKA Al' KMKIiliK

can be worked at a ])rofitable rate. Since, however, we can only deal with
known assets, we must at present look to the development of a really
prosperous commerce by means of animal and vegetable productions.

As regards animal productions, there is ivory of the very best quality.
So lonsf as the British Government can determinedlv enforce the Game
Regulations by a small annual ex})enditure, and protect female and immature
male elephants from being killed by natives or Europeans, there will not
be much danger of the African elephant becoming extinct in a territory
so large as this, where Nature has reserved vast marshes and leagues of

288 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

forest for the shelter of this beast. Provided the most religious care —
such care is effectual in India — was taken of the females and voung, there
is no reason why a certain number of male elephants should not be killed
yearly by designated agents of the Government, and their ivory be sold
to merchants as part of the Protectorate revenues. I see no reason whatever
now why the female African elephant should not be tamed and used as
a transport animal. For this purpose it might eventually prove advisable
to import trained Indian females, who might assist in teaching the young
captured Africans. The experiments I have tried myself in tlie way of
rearing baby elephants who had not yet been weaned from their mothers
proved imsuccessful, as apparently it is impossible to rear any African
elephant on cows' milk. Perhaps, however, my four failures in this
respect need not be held to discourage other experiments. In any case,
the late Mr. Eichard Baile showed that it was possible for natives to
capture young elephants able to subsist on leaves and grass, yet not so old
as to be utterly unmanageable or untamable. It mny be along this line that
the next experiments will be made, and imported female Indian elephants
might be of use in taming the newly captured elephants. In time, when
African elephants had been trained to keddah work, the whole system of
capturing, taming, and training elephants might be conducted on Indian
lines. If after many years of trial the African elephant is pronounced to
be hopeless as a domestic animal (and it should be remembered that most
Tnale African elephants in captivity have shown them.selves to be hopeles^^ly
savage), then at least for its magnificent ivory the creature is worth
preserving as an asset to the State. If the Indian elephant shows himself
to be more docile than the African ele[)hant, it must be remembered,
on the other hand, that he is of very little value for his ivory.

Zebras of two kinds (the magnificent Grevyi and the equally handsome
but smaller Grant's zebra) exist in the Uganda Protectorate in countless
swarms. The foals are easily captured by the natives, and can be reared
by means of asses as foster-mothers, the ass lieing one of the commonest and
cheapest of domestic auimals, at any rate over the eastern parts of the
Uganda Protectorate. These fine large asses, in fact (which are simply the
Nubian ass slightly domesticated), might of themselves be an article of ex})ort.
Giraffes and most of the larger African antelopes should be strictly
preserved, but when they increased unduly in numbers specimens of them
might be captured for sale and transmission to zoological gardens. Where
any of these animals are really found in excess, and have to be tliinned,
it must be remembered that their hides are almost always of value
commercially.

Either there is no true tsetse fly anywhere in the Uganda Protectorate
or it is not able to obtain and introduce into the bodies of domestic animals

COMMERCIAL PP.OSPKCTS 2«n

the malarial germs which cause tsetse fever. Therefore, theoretical! v there is
no part of the Uganda Protectorate in which cattle, sheep, goats, and horses
cannot he kept. But aUhough the Protectorate is fairly well supi>lied with tine
cattle, and possesses enormous herds of sheep and goats, it must be remembered
that at different periods during the past twenty years portions of the Protec-
torate have been visited to a disastrous extent by a cattle disease — some
kind of pleuro-pneumonia coming from the Dinka countries in the Egyptian
Sudan, and gradually spreading right down to South Africa and across the
continent to Sierra Leone. Some })ortions of the Uganda Protectorate,
however, have never been ravaged by this disease. It should also be possible
perhaps to attack the malady at its source in the Dinka countries, and
eventually })ut a stop to these ravages, which have inflicted such ajjp-alling
losses on East and South Africa. At any rate, at the present time Uganda
has enough cattle to be able to export beasts by means of the Uganda Kail-
way for consumption in the markets of East Africa. If cattle-breeding
prospers and remains untouched by any further disease of a serious nature,
the export of hides from Uganda ought to amount to a very considerable
item in its commerce.

The ostrich of the North African species, with fine white plumes in the
male, is a native of the northern and eastern districts of the Uganda Pro-
tectorate. Its eggs and recently hatched young are constantly brought in
by the natives for sale. There is no reason why, in the Rift Valley and
over the greater part of Uganda, ostrich farms should not be established.
It is possible that the feathers of the North African ostrich might
average sliohtlv more in the market than those of the South African
species.

Honey bees exist over the greater part of the Protectorate, and in many
districts are partially domesticated by the natives, to whom honey is an
important article of diet. The wax of the.se bees would certainly form in
time an article for export.

Turning to vegetable productions, we have, in the first i)lace. coffee.
Whether originally introduced or not from Abyssinia, coffee is at any rate
native now in a semi-wild form to the better forested regions of tlie Uganda
Protectorate, its berries producing coffee of excellent flavour. Not only
might the wild coff--e be gathered and sold by the natives, but it would seem
as though this country was singularly well adapted for coffee ])lantations, as
the fore?ted regions have a regular and ample rainfall, the soil is very rich,
and abundance of shade trees exist. Coffee could be grown on the lake shore
all round the northern half of the Victoria Nyanza. Steamers could cnrry
the coffee to the railway terminus on Kavirondo I>ay. and it is probable
that bv steamer and rail, and steamer again from ^Mombasa, coffee could
be landed at the European markets charged with a freight of not more
VOL. I. 19

290 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

than £2 10s. a ton. On the other hand, I am not certain vvhetlier
Uganda wonhl produce the local labour for the cofifee plantations as cheap
as that which would be obtained in British Central Africa. Perhaps on
the whole the advantages of the two Protectorates for coffee -plan ting are
about equal.

Regarding the soil of Uganda proper and the adjoining Districts of
Busoga and Toro, Mr. Alexander Whyte says : " Generally speaking, this
soil is a reddish loam on a subsoil of rich red or chocolate clay, sometimes
of a great depth. At times patches of poor, gravelly soil crop up, more
especially on the hilltops. These are formed of disintegrated ironstone
or igneous rock, and do not retain the moisture. The country is wonder-
fully free from surface stones and boulders. . . . The soil of the swamps
and marshes is a black humus, formed by the decay of rank vegetation. One
would naturally expect to find a deep deposit of this, mixed with soil washed
down from the surrounding hills; on the contrary, I have been surprised to
find this black deposit often very shallow and almost invariably overlaying a
subsoil of kaolin clay. . . . The question generally put is, What will not
grow and flourish in Uganda? The furze and the broom grow so well that
we are making hedges of them. Tomatoes grow quite wild. One plant was
left by the boys when weeding my compound. It flourished so amazingly
that I determined to keep tally of the fruits picked from it. The yield in
two months has been 3,000 ! It still goes on bearing clusters of lovely fruits,
and covers a space of twenty feet square."

I give here a photograph of a sunflower in the Botanical Gardens at
Entebbe which grew up in a few weeks, and produced more than 200
blossoms, all of them yielding seed full of excellent oil.

Oats thrive well on lofty regions like the Nandi Plateau. Up to the
present time wheat in Uganda has not been a great success. Inasmuch,
however, as it has proved a success in German East Africa to the south of
the lake, our comparative failure })robably means that we did not select
the right kind of wheat for the very varying altitudes of the Uganda
Protectorate. As to Indian corn, sorghum, millet, eleusine, and other
grains native to Africa or India, they flourish exceedingly, and are at any
rate excellent and sustaining food for the natives.

The sesamum and ground-nut grow in many districts, and could be
converted locally into an oil of considerable commercial value. The
fibre of the raphia })alm, of three or four species of Hibiscus, and of the
Sanseviera might be worth exporting. The Baganda make excellent
ropes out of locally produced fibre. Tobacco grows almost everywhere in
Uganda, but whether it could possibly compete with the tobaccos of the
West Indies, India, and Borneo is doubtful. But it forms a very notable
object of sale and barter amongst the natives, being eagerly purchased from

COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

21)1

those who have it hv those in wliose districts it is not cuUivated. Indeed,
in making journeys to a distant part of the Protectorate one is oljliged
to take tobacco as one would cloth and beads. The sugar-cane grows
luxuriantly in all the tropical parts of the Protectorate, and already steps
have been taken to obtain from it a sugar which should at any rate
suffice for the inhabitants of Uganda. IMr. Whyte considers many portions

205. A .SVNKLOWEU WITH NKAKLV 30D BLO.SSO.MS ON IT AT ENTKUIIK

of the Protectorate admirably adapted for the cultivation of tea and cacao,
the last-named plant having, through the efforts of Sir W. Thiselton Dyer
and Mr. Whyte, been successfully introduced into the Uganda Protectorate.
Cotton grows wild in Uganda, but. like tobacco, might possibly not be
worth exportation.

Amongst the commercial assets of Uganda timber must certainly not
be overlooked. The forests of the :Mau and Nandi Plateaux and of the
slopes of Mount Elgon contain hundreds of thousands of magnificent

292 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

conifers — ^juniper and yew. The timber of the juniper is to all intents
and purposes like cedar-wood. The mere thinning of these woods which
is necessary for their improvement, and which might be carried on
concurrently with the establishment of European settlements, would
provide millions of cubic feet of timber, which would iind a ready market
on the east coast of Africa. In the tropical forests along the shores and
on the islands of the Victoria Nyanza all the best African trees exist —
ebony, African teak, African mahagony, iron-wood, and acacia. It has
been considered that without detriment to the forests along the Uganda
Railway or in these lacustrine districts wood fuel could be used instead of
coal, resulting thereby in an enormous i-aving in the working expenses of
steamers and locomotives.

We come now to what I believe to be the production of the surest
value in the Uganda Protectorate : indiarubber. Mr. Whyte is of opinion
that a tree of an allied species to the gutta-percha of Eastern Asia grows
in Buddu, and perhaps elsewhere in the forest -covered regions of the
Protectorate. Unfortunately, the specimens collected to prove this
statement have never reached their destination at Kew. But rubber of a
very saleable quality is produced by two or more trees of the genus Tabernci'-
TTiontana, by perhaps three species of Landolphla, and by a Fantumia.
The rubber produced from these sources varies in value according to the
care with which it has been collected. The samples which I have had sold
experimentally of Uganda rubbers have ranged in price from Is. Id. to
2s. 6d. a pound. Tiie bulk of Uganda rubbers as at present turned out
by the natives seems to realise about 2s. a pound when sold at jNIomliasa.
Steps are being taken to properly instruct the natives in the best methods
of procuring and yn'eparing rubber for the market, and it is to be hoped
that as a result not only no permanent harm will be done to the sources
of rubber supply, but tlie purity of the Uganda rubbers may be well
maintained, and secure for this article an average price of at least 2s.
a pound.

The following summary of the animal, vegetable, and mineral products
known to exist in the Uganda Protectorate, and likely to be of value in
its commercial development, is appended. It should be ])ointed out that
although in some instances the product may not be worth the cost of
exportation to com})ete with the products of other countries in the
European markets, it is of considerable local value. For instance, it
might not pay to export Uganda sugar, but it will certainly pay — is
paying — those people who have sufficient enterprise to turn the sugar-
cane of Uganda into a crystallised sugar which is eagerly bougiit by
Europeans, Indians, and natives, inasmuch as it can be sold to them at
cheaper rates than sugar imported from abroad. The same tiling would

COMM i: Pv( MAI. IMiOS P h:CTS 2!):',

ai)[:ly to cotton, salt, tobacco, and not a few of tlip suhstancf-s inclu<l('<l
in the following list.

Ele})hant ivory, hi|iiK)!)otainus teetli.

Skins of lions, leopards, wild-cats, and other Hnimals possessing liandsdiiH' fur, and
not on the Protected List.

Hides (oxen, sheep, goats', and wild animals' ii<it on the Protected List).

Live-stock (cattle, shee]), goats, asses, and wild aiunials and birds of interest to
zoological collections).

Beeswax.

Cotfee.

Indiarubber of fonr or five kinds.

Sugar.

Tobacco.

Cotton.

Fibre of many kinds, some especially suitable for rojie-making.

Timber (juniper, yew, ebony, African teak, African mahogany, acacia-wood, red-
wood, bamboo, ii'on-wood, etc.).

Dye woods.

Drugs {Strophanthus, etc.).

Gums (acacia, copal, incense, shellac).

Grain (maize, sorghum, millet, eleusine).

Food-stuffs of a not too (juickly jjerishable nature, such as jjotatoes, beans, p)eas, dhal.

Oil-seeds (ground-nuts, sesamum, castor-oil).

Cardamoms, turmeric, and other substances used in the East as spice.

Chillies.

Food-stuffs which nught be ju'operly cultivated in the I'ganda Protectorate and
eventually for export : Wheat, oats, rice, coffee, tea, cacao.

Minerals : Gold(?), iron, plumbago, salt.

Uganda contains limestone in the Nyando \'alley, and in many i)arts of
the Protectorate excellent building stone ; and brick-making, pottery, and
porcelain clays.

At the time of writing, British trade — that is to say, commerce conducted
by natives of the United Kingdom — is by no means to the fore in the
Uganda Protectorate. The firms of Smith, ^lackenzie i^ Co. and Koustead
Kidley were both until recently established in Uganda. Both ha"e to a great
extent withdrawn owing to the difficulties of transport, and in some cases to
a series of unlooked-for misfortunes. These and other British firms, in fact,
have decided to hold their hands and restrain their enterprise until tlie
completion of the railway and tlie ])lacing of capacious steamers on the
A'ictoria Nyanza. Whether they are wise or nor in awaiting events I cannot
say. iNIeantime two Cierman firms are pushing ahead in all directions. One
of these is the German East Africa Company. I understand that both
the German firms are either subsidised by their own Government or by
the German Colonial Society, and that this help enables them to create and
carry on an extensive trade in Uganda regardless of present profits or losses

294. COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

The result has, T must adiiiit, lieen most heneficial to the Euro[)ean officials,
who are not too well paid. Thanks to the enterjjrise of the German firms,
stores were opened at Entebbe, ]Mengo, Fort Portal, and other places even
before the railway cheapened commerce and transport, and at these stores a
great variety of European goods can be purchased. The Germans have been
selling excellent wine, whiskies, groceries, and most of the necessities of
European life at prices which were certainly reasonable for the time and
place. In fact, it really made existence possible for the official, who before
this German enterprise either had to live on native food or get into debt by
purchasing provisions and wine in England and having them sent up-country
from ^Mombasa at a ruinous rate of transport and subject to innumerable risks
and incredible delays.

Almost simultaneously with the German came the British Indian. He
rendered further benefits to the European community by bringing down the
German prices, and by opening stores at places whither even a German hesitated
to penetrate. Within the term of my Special Commission, Indian traders
advanced their posts from Kampala (Mengo) to Toro and the vicinity of the
Congo Free State, to five places in Unyoro, and all the posts at which
Europeans or native soldiers were established in the Nile Province, besides
opening bazaars at all the stations in the eastern half of the Protectorate.
This commercial enterprise of the Germans and British Indians, of course,
added largely to our local revenues, and did a great deal to encourage the
natives to embark in trade in the products of their country. To the
British Indians I can only wish unlimited success, since they trade under
the British flag, and create trade, first in a small way and tlien in a large
way, where no trade has hitherto existed. To tlie Germans, out of gratitude
for their belief in Uganda and for the comfort which they have added to the
life of the European official by the opening of good shops with provisions sold
at reasonable prices, we can only wish success, since all trade in Uganda
must conduce to the prosperity of the Protectorate and the increase of its
revenues.

In addition to Germans and British Indians, there came to trade in this
Protectorate Persians, Somalis, one or two Greeks, several Armenians, and
one Italian. A Persian has opened a soda-water factory at Entebbe. A native
of Kach in British India is erecting hotels for British visitors at the principal
stations on the Uganda Railway and elsewhere in the Protectorate.

With regard to the Germans and to the Indians, they appeal to my
liking as a Government official because they give little or no bother ; they
ask for no guarantee and for no concession. They enter the country and
pursue their trade under the laws in force, making the best of things as they
find them. In the case of British firms, I am bound to admit that they
are somewhat apt to ask for guarantees, for assured contracts, for concessions

COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

21)5

■of land or iiK)iio})oli('s dI' ])i(>(lacti()n, lieforc fliov are able to veiituic I heir
capital and enterprise. 1 am ijuite of opinion that in some districts, in some
directions, special steps sliould be taken to induce law-abiding Europeans

■i--^y»-

f ?^^;.'^'^^i

206. A lUBBKK-TliKE (T.111I;k.\^I;M0.\T.I.\.1)

of all nationalities to engage in industrial enterprises. At the same time, so
far as my own opinion goes, I am quite opposed to the handing over of large
concessions or estates to companies or associations who have given no proof
of tiieir ability to develop these, who will probably only use them as counters

29G COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

\vitli which to speculate on the Stock Ivxchavige, and who arc hkcly to over-
ride roughly existing native rights and industries. I earnestly hope that our
Government may share these views to a reasonahle extent. At any late,
until, say, ten or fifteen years hence, we find that the natives of the Uganda
Protectorate are hopeless, that they will do absolutely nothing to develop
under our direction and for their profit the resources of the country in
animal, vegetable, and mineral wealth— until then I consider we ought to be
most careful not to repeat a policy which has been shown to be disastrous in
the Congo Free State and in certain French colonies.

Commerce ought to be absolutely free and imrestricted in the I'ganda
Protectorate. If the native profits by developing the resources of his
country, the Administration of the Protectorate will profit also; for the
native will have money with which to pay his hut and gun taxes, the export
duty on certain goods, or the import duty on others. The European
merchant will find his gain in the cheapness of native labour, and con-
sequently the low price of the native products which will be tendered to
him for purchase. Put do not let us — at any rate, until we have tried
other expedients and failed — hand over large districts as exclusive
concessions to this or that company for rubber, timber, ivory, or coflee.
Special arrangements in regard to mining may possibly have to he n:ade
owing to the utter inability of the native to develop that particular
source of wealth. At the present time any European or foreigner (or,
for the matter of that, any nativej can purchase from the Crown an estate
of 1,000 acres iii any one place, provided such estate be the property of
the Crown and not of a native or natives, and unless it contains an
amount or special patch of forest which for good reasons the (xovernment
may not wish to sell. Therefore there is no hindrance in the way of
modest enterprise. At to mmodest enterprise — a single association buying
up a whole province or obtaining an exclusive rubber concession over
25,000 square miles — I for one am totally op[iosed to any such policy —
at any rate, until it has been show^n that a mass of small traders and
4,000,000 natives cannot between them develop the resources of their
country in a manner productive of profit and happiness to all.

The British taxpayer has had to pay for the establishment of the
Protectorate over Uganda since 1894 about £1,394,000, and £4,900,000
for the construction of the Uganda Pailway. For ten years to come he
will have to pay, let us say, another £2,200,000 for the maintenance of
the Uganda Kailway until its revenue makes it a self-supporting concern,
and a yearly contribution to the revenues of the Protectorate to meet the
deficit between the revenue and expenditure, which will not entirely cease
to exist, let us suppose, for another ten years. This means that the

298 COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS

British public will have invested a total sum of (in round numbers)
£8,500,000 in the Uganda Protectorate, besides about £'2,000,000 between
1894 and 1911 in the adjoining East African Protectorate, expenditure on
which is closely bound up with that on Uganda,

What return is the native of the United Kingdom to get for this
investment of £10,500,000 sterling? I have, of course,* pointed out
that we commenced these Protectorates from motives (Continental nations
may laugh, but it is true) of pure philanthropy. Since those days,
however, of enthusiasm for the suppression of the slave trade and the
general betterment of the black man's condition, the same nation, or only
that core of it, the United Kingdom, has been mulcted of £'100,000,000,
£'200,000,000 to dissolve the inimical Dutch element in South Africa and.
to create a firmly established, free, and self-governing state of enormous
proportions between the Cape of Good Hope and . . . and . . . what ? —
Tano-anvika ? The British public, therefore — I mean the taxpayers in
Great Britain and Ireland — may have grown weary of such expensive
philanthropy, and may ask with considerable justification, " May not this
monev of mine s}»ent on the African Protectorates be considered as an
advance towards the creation of great Negro states, be regarded as the
national debt of those states, and be ultimately repaid out of their revenues ?
And am I to get no other return for this venture of my capital, this
expenditure from my pocket?"

As a British taxpayer, I certainly feel entitled to put this query
myself, and I should like it answered eventually by the consolidation of
this theoretical advance of £10,500,000 into a national debt which the
East African territories should seek to repay by instalments and by degrees
to the mother country. Supposing that the British had spent £10,000,000
in the original annexation of the Transvaal in 1877, and in the erection
of the Transvaal into a prosperous, well-governed state, with no break of
twenty years following ]Majuba. What an easy matter it would have been
for the Transvaal, with the discovery of its enormous mineral wealth, to
have repaid to the taxpayers of the United Kingdom the £10,000,000
expended in the creation of this prosperous colony. It is the unexpected
which always happens in Africa. The territories I am now describing, or
those adjoining them under the British flag, may turn out to be amazingly
wealthy in gold, in precious stones, or in some vegetable product of immense
value to mankind. If such circumstances arose, I consider that these
territories should certainly be called upon to repay to the Treasury of
Great Britain the £10,500,000 or more which it will have cost to erect them
into a well-governed state, with a revenue which meets its expenditure.

And as a further reward to the British taxpayer, I consider that " all that
valuable demesne " on the Nandi Plateau which is adapted by nature to be a

CO:\niERCTAL PROSPECTS i>!)!l

Wliite Man's Colony sliould (with forest and game reservations excepted) be
surveyed, divided into estates of moderate size, and thrown open to settle-
ment at the hands of natives of the United Kingdoni, or— failing a sufficient
iiumher of applicants from England, Scotland, and Ireland — to the natives of
the British Empire, perhai)s on slightly less liberal terms, since thev have
not contributed to the original ex])(Miditure. No law or regulation need be
issued in this sense to horrify doctrinaire adherents of Free Trade or of that
present lack of Imperial organisation by which the 40,000,000 inhabitants of
the United Kingdom meet the entire cost and responsiliilit v of creating,
extending, and defending the Empire; l>ut spoken instructions might be
conveyed to the local authorities in the consideration of claims for free
estates to favour, in the first instance, a))plicants who have been taxjiavers
in the United Kingdom. The map on which the density of population and
the existing European settlements are given shows the approximate area of
this territory which I call the White Man's Colony. Over the greater jiart
of this extent there is not a single settled native inhabitant, no one in the
sha}ie of a black man but a few wandering hunters. Consequently we are
committing no act of injustice towards an indigenous population in ofJering"
this land to the British settler. We are offering him in this direction a
country with a climate as healthy as that of the temperate parts of South
Africa, of Southern Australia, of New Zealand ; a land abundantly watered
by running streams, with grassy downs, splendid forests of conifers, a fertile
soil, and a country which, though exactly under the equator, is singularly
like the landscapes of southern England — ^landscapes that are decked with
wild-flowers closely resembling those that grow in the Plnglish meadows and
hedgerows ; a land wherein it is never too hot in the daytime, though some^
times there is a frost at night ; where there is heavy rain and (where the
forest is too thick) too much humidity; where the wind is sometimes
keen ; where the lion, the leojiard, the wild-cat, and the hya-na may for a
time exact a toll from the settler's flocks ; where there will be unlooked-for
disappointments in the third years crops, or where an unexpected disease
may diminish the tenth year's output of potatoes; yet on the whole one
of the fairest countries for beauty on the habitable earth, and a tract of
land which, if it lay within the limits of Australia or a South African colony,,
would maintain a prosperous European population of .300,000 souls.

CHAPTER X
3IETE0B0L0GY AND GEOLOGY

IN the consideration of climate and temperature the Uganda Protectorate
may be divided into five regions : —

(1) There is the extremely arid country at the relatively low altitude of
1,500 or 1,600 feet above sea level that stretches from near the north end
of Lake Baringo to the north end of Lake Rudolf, and includes the basin
of that lake and the surroundings of Lake Sugota. Here there is often
considerable vaiiation between the highest day and the lowest night
temperature. The day temperatures may reach such figures as 115" Fahr.
in the shade. (.)n the other hand, the night temperature, as so often
•occurs in desert countries, sinks rapidly to such figures as 50° in the
winter teason. The average temperature during the hot or summer half
of the year is probably 83° Fahr. During the winter season a cold, dry
wind often blows furiously from the north-east. The wind from this
quarter is always strong, cold, and dry throughout the eastern parts of the
Protectorate, and is much disliked by Europeans. The rainfall in the
Pudolf region is variable. .*^ome districts or patches of country may go for
two or three years without a dro]) of rain ; others may have a very heavy
fall, which, though raising the yearly average to a considerable figure,
is wasted, by its violent descent during a short space of time. To the
north-west and west of the lake, where the ground rises to a higher altitude,
the climate is altogether superior, the rain is a little more regular in its
descent, and the temperatures are not so high.

(2) The Plateau Regicn. — This is practically confined to the portion
of the Kift Valley about Lake Naivasha and to the great Nandi Plateau,
though there are repetitions of this climate on the upper parts of Mount
Elgon and in small portions of Ankole ; perhaps also on one or two of the
higher mountains in the eastern part of the Nile Province. In this plateau
region the climate is well-nigh perfect. There is an abundant rainfall
(except, perhaps, near Lake Naivasha) of about 50 inches per annum,
distributed more generally throughout the year than is usually the case
in the tropics. The rainy months cannot be predicted with absolute
■certainty, as the climate is somewhat fickle. Ordinarily, however, there

303

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY 301

are heavy rains in .lanuarv, Felniiaiv, and .March ; slight rains in April ;
heavy rains in July and August; and light rains again in October and
November. The average yearly temperature is probablv GO', the ther-
mometer seldom going above 80' or below 4()\ There is not a great
range of temperature between the seasons; indeed, in this eipiatorial
region the seasons are very variable, and are chiefly the distinction between
a month that is very wet and a month that is rather dry. The climate
may be said in general to be a perpetual summer of a mild P]uropean tvjie.

(3) The Forest Region. — This division of general tropical luxuriance
includes all the countries bordering on Lake ^'ictoria Nyanza, Lake Albert,
Lake Kioga, and Lake Albert Edward, the valley of the Semliki and
of the Victoria Nile between Kioga and the Kipon Falls, the forested
slopes of ]Mount Elgon and the Nandi Jlscarpment, and all the Kavirondo-
country. This region is emphatically a country of thunderstorms, which
occur here with the frequency and violence to which I have made allusion
in Chapter TIL These thunderstorms, in fact, are almost the only climatic
drawback ; for although the generality of this land does not lie much
above 4,000 feet in altitude, the sun rarely causes extreme discom!'ort
by his heat. Sometimes the thermometer may touch 100 , but tliis is^
infrequent. More often the high temperatures are 92 or 93 ; while the
average day temperature is not more than 85 . The nights are nearly
always cool, the thermometer falling at least as low as 70\ It has been
calculated by members of the Church ^lissionarv Society that the average
minimum temperature in Uganda is 52'1' and the maximum 81 "8 . Eain
is abundant, and although it is heavier in some months than in others,,
there is scarcely a month of the year which is without rain. The heaviest
rains generally occur in January. February, ^larch, and April, October and
November. I should sav that the average rainfiiU in this Forest Kegion
was 60 inches. It is subject, however, to variability. In 1899 the rainfall
recorded at two stations in Uganda only averaged 34 inches, which fell
on 61 days. In 1900 the average rainfall at the same stations in Uganda
proper was 60 inches. In 1896, 51 "6 inches were registered in I'ganda,.
falling on 136 days. The rainfall in the same district in 1897 was
67 inches, and the number of rainy days was 164. In 1898 the total
rainfall at the same stations in Uganda was 50 inches, falling in 131 days.
In 1899 the rain only fell on 61 days during the year in I'ganda, and
elsewhere to the east of Luanda a severe drought visited the Protectorate.*
The rainfall in Toro is probably 80 inches per annum (I am not speaking
of the slopes of Ruwenzori, which will be treated of separately). In Buddu,

* It would seem as though during the seven years h-oni 1879 to 18S.") inclu.sive
the rainfall in the central part of Uganda was slightly b.-low the average here given,,
and, in fact, only average:! about 48 inches.

302 METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

which is the south-western prolongation of I'ganda proper, the rainfall
may be quite an average 70 inches. Winds in these forest regions are
light and variable generally, though heavy squalls break on the Victoria
Nyanza, and the south wind on Lake Albert Nyanza is of great force and
raises terrific seas. On land, however, the only wind which is objected to
is the west wind, which is cold and clammy, and generally associated
with malarial fever. Lake Victoria and most of the other lakes in the
Protectorate are usually at their lowest in the month of November.

It is thought by jNIr. E. Gr. Ravenstein that the extreme range in
the level of the Victoria Nyanza between the lowest and the highest
known conditions of the lake is as much as ten feet ; but this calculation
is based on the supposition that the P>ench missionaries in L'ganda are
<?orrect in stating that the level of the lake in 1881 stood eight feet above
the level of 1898. But ever since regular observations have been taken
by Government officials on the lake shores, the extreme range in the
level between the highest and lowest recorded is 43-5 inches. On June 1st,
1901, the level of the A'ictoria Nyanza was two feet above the mean level
of 1896. As already stated, the lowest level of this and other lakes
probably occurs in the month of November, and the highest level on all
these waters is attained in July, a condition which corresponds to some
extent with the flooding of the Nile in Egypt. The rise of these lakes
and the consequent rise of the Nile begins in January, becomes marked
in June, and reaches its height in July, thence dropping rapidly to the
«nd of November.

(4) The Xile Region. — This includes all the countries west of the
Eudolf watershed, nearly all the Asua Eiver, and the lands to the north
of the Victoria Nile, east of the main Nile and south of the fifth degree
of north latitude. In this region the temperatures reached are nearly
as high as on the shores of Lake Kudolf. The rainfall is very variable
in the Nile Province. Portions of the eastern part of these countries
have an uncertain rainfall that from year to year may not give an
average of more than 20 inches, perhaps not even that. Near the
banks of the Nile, in the Nile Valley, the rainfall is heavy, though
it is badly distributed, giving perhaps an annual average of 40 inches.
The average temjjerature for the year is about 85". The recorded
maximum is 112" and the minimum 70"". The country along the
banks of the Nile is extremely hot, and has a higher average tem-
perature, no doubt, than the more hilly countries to the east. In the
Latuka country there are many agreeable sites possessing a climate which
might be referred to the Plateau Region (No. 2), where here and there
a point can be attained where the climate and temperature belong to the
fifth, or Alpine Region. The hottest months of the year are from April

PLATE VI

■^^ _^ 20 -4-0 -'.y;:y

M'Mfumhiro _^

^§2^

G-E

UGANDA PROTECTORATE
DISTRIBUTION OF RAINFALL AND NAVIGABLE WATERWAYS.

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY :'.():>,

to November. The lieaviest rains prohahly fall at this time. In drv
seasons severe droughts may occur. It is usually a country of strong
winds, the winds blowing down the valley of the Nile from the south
during the summer months and from the north during the winter.

(5) The Alpine Rerjion. — Tiiis of course is very small in area, and
includes the Kuwenzori range above 8,000 feet in altitude, two or three
points in Ankole of 8,000 feet or over, the tops of some of the higii
mountains in the Nile and Central Provinces, the upper regions of :\Ioimt
Elgon, and the mountain ridges on tlie Nandi Plateau of Chibcharamin,
Elgeyo, Londiani, and the high jnountains immediately to the west of
Lake Naivaslia. The average temperature in these regions may be ])laced
hypothetically at 45 . The temperatures on the snow and ice may descend
to perhaps 25^.

The degree of navigability of lakes and rivers is indicated with
approximate correctness on the accompanying map.

The climate in tropical Africa does not always bear a direct ratio to
health. Questions of salubrity and insalulirity depend on many other
local conditions than the degree of heat or cold, or the variation between
extremes of temperature. It may be said without exaggeration that
between the Zambezi on the south and the Albert Nyanza en the north,
between Kilimanjaro on the east and the tameroons and Senegal on the
west, the climate of Central Africa is generally agreeable, and much more
equable than in tropical Asia. The whole of Uganda, except parts of the
Rudolf and Nile Provinces, has an agreeable climate, yet all jiarts of the
Protectorate below 4,500 feet in altitude tend to be unhealthy. This
would seem to be due, in the first place, to the germs of diseases which
are generated in marshy di.-tricts ; and, secondly, to the mosquitoes and
other agents for the introduction of those germs into the human frame.
If, therefore, some means could be found of abolishing the conditions which
produce those germs, or destroying the agents by which they reach the
human blood or digestive organs, the greater part of tropical Africa which
is not subjected to the exceptional heat and moisture of the west coast,
of Zanzibar, and of the Upper Nile Valley, would be fairly healthy for
European occupation. Nevertheless, I doubt whether in any districts which
are below 5,500 feet in altitude within the tropics the European race
could perpetuate itself from generation to generation without deteriorating.
Fortunately there are considerable areas within the East African Pro-
tectorates above this height, and, if intervening districts could be robbed
of their danger by the extinction of malaria and dy.sentery, or the means
by which we become infected with malaria or dysentery, tropical Africa
would lose its terrors, and produce and maintain several white nations.

301 METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

Notes ox the Collections of

KOCKS AND MINEKAL SPECIMENS FKOM THE UGANDA

PK()TECT( )RATE

made by sir HAEEY JOHXSTOX, MESSKS. GEOEGE WILSON, EACEY. WM. GEANT. C. ^V.
HOBLEY, F. W. ISAAC, AND OTHEES.

By Messrs. T.. Fletcher akd G. T. Prior, of the Mixeralogical Department,
British Natural History Museum.

The rock specimens include examples of the Arclia?an gneisses, schists, and granites,
Avhich constitute the main mass of the Uganda ])lateau : specimens of these rocks
come from the Busoga, Bukedi, Elgon, and Unyoro Districts, from Ru^venzori and
the Nile Province. Besides these basement rocks, there are si)ecimens of ferruginous,
schistose, and slaty rocks from Unyoro, possibly belonging to the Palajozoic Karagwe
series ; coarse ferruginous sandstones and quartzites from the shores of Lake Victoria
Nyanza and Lake Naivasha, and from Ankole ; and volcanic rocks (chiefly phonolites)
from the Elgon and Baringo Districts, the Kamasia hills, Lake Nakuro, and the Nandi
District.

Of minerals of economic value, the collection contains specimens of iron ore,
graphite, and diatomaceous earth. The iron ore includes specimens of magnetite from
Budolo hill, Masaba (Elgon) ; Nagarive hill, Bukedi ; and Jinja, Busoga ; and of
ironstone (limonite chiefly), from Bukonge and .Jinja in Busoga, from the Bugaya islands,
Buvuma, Kavirondo Bay, Ankole, and Unyoro. (iraphite is present in small amount
on specimens from Unyoro (Chief Byabaswezi), and the diatomaceous earth occurs
8 miles west of the Katonga River, and also on the shore of Lake Nakuro. As to
the occurrence of gold, all that can be said is that no visible gold could be found
upon any of the numerous specimens of quartz in the collection.

The Cataloyue of Sjucimens jivoceeth in (jeuuniphival (jrih-r from East to West.
MAU, NANDI, AND BARINGO DISTRICTS.

Lucalitj. Nan.e.

Cliti's on north-west coast of Lake Nakuro . . Kenyte.

Hill facing Lake Nakuro, south of railway station . Tuft'.

Hill north of railway station, Lake Nakuro . . Glassy lava (Kenyte).

Hill north-east and 5 miles from Lake Nakuro . Scoria.

Shore of Lake Nakuro Diatomaceous earth.

Seget Valley, Nandi District Phonolite.

Sigowet hills, „ „

Bed of Seget River, Nandi District ....

Ivamasia hills, below ravine Red ja.sper, quartz, cLalcedon,

calcite, and ]ihonolite.

Baringo District, Eldama Ravine .... Basalt, scoria, and jihonolite.

Lake Naivasha Obsidian tuft', sandstone.

Bed of Nyando River, Nandi District . . . Nephelinite.

Bed of Lower Kedowa River

I'pper waters of .. ,,

Nyando A'alley, 10 miles west of Fort Ternan . Limestone from concretionary

blocks in alluvial deposits over-
lying granite and gneiss.

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

:ui:

]\rAr, NaNDI, AM) 1JaKIN(;(» 'l)l^Tl{UT==,—fronfiinifi/).

Locality.

Nyando Valley, 3 miles south of Kitoto .

^Ikiiulu liiver, Nyando ^'alk'y, near cart road from

Kisumu to Fort Ternan

IvibliUes or Stormy Kivei-, l<i miles west of For

Ternan ........

Vi)l)er Nyando Valley, li miles north of Moun

Blackett

Langoro camp, 3 miles west of Alau summit .
Southern slopes of Tindaret, ^fonnt Kamiiih

country

Mount Manava, 12 miles west of Fort Ternan
Awichina, 8 miles north of Kisumu .

Koraudo lulls. 4h miles north nf Kisumu

.. 2 .

Kisumu, raised beach 1 mile from shore of J^ak

Victoria Nyanza

Lake-shore, south of Fort Victoria .
Kisumu, I mile from lake

CENTKAL PKO\
Elgon Distkic

^lumia's sub-district
Nyifwa „

Tindi

Kabarasi

51

Marama „

Nzoia IJiver

Lusimo liiver „
Ketosh (Upper Nzoia Eiver) sul)-district
„ sub-district

Kakumega ,,

Kikelelwa

Mumia's ,.

Nyala

Sio Eiver

VOL. I.

Xiiiiie.

T.,ime.stone.

( Jneiss.

Tuff.

Fhonolitic trachyte.

Fhonolite.

(hanite.

Phonolite.

Pisolitic ironstone.
Decom]io.secl schist.
Phonolite.

NCE.

T.

Basalt.
Quartz.

Gneiss.

Quartz.
Diabase.
Gneiss.
Quartz.

(Jneiss.

Decomposed granite rock.

Quartz.

(Jneiss.

Piasalt ? weathered.

Gneiss*.

Quartz.

Gneiss.
Gneiss ?
(Quartz.

CJneiss.

20

306

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

Centra l Province— Eloon 1 hsTniCT—fcontinveJ).

Locality. Name.

Lego sub-district Gneiss.

Quartz.

Saiiiia hills

Gneiss.

Granite.

Quartz.

7.000 feet

6,000 feet
8,000 feet

Mount Elgon^ Soutlifrn Ilan/i><.

Augite crystals.
Nephelinite 1

Decomposed rock.
Fossil -wood.

Augite in volcanic bomb ?
Basalt ?

Budolo hill, South-West Elgon .

Bukedi country, near Elgon

Namiijumba's, shoi-e of Victoria Nyanza, Buso

Jinja, Busoga ......

Nampirika, Busoga

Jinja, Busoga

Bukonge, Lake Victoria Nyanza, Busoga

Iganga, Busoga

Bugwen „
Kibui, Busoga, shore
Iganga, Busoga
Bnkonge „
Jinja, Busoga

Nakalanga .

of ].a

ke\

Busoga and Bukedi.

Magnetite.

Decomposed mica schist.

(4rit.

Hornblende-schist.

Mica-schist.

Hornblende schist.

Quartz.

Ironstone.

Quartzite.

Ferruginous sandstone.

Quartz.

Pegmatite.

Epidosite.

Quartzite.

Diabase.

Gneiss.

Ironstone.

Laterite 1

ictor

ia Nyanza

Slate.

Hornblende-schist (decomposed).

Ironstone.

Epidiorite.

Decomposed hornblende-schist.

Ironstone.

Quartz.

Sandstone.

METEOllOLOGY AND GEOLOGY

:}07

Ckntkal Pkovince

Locality.

Jinja, Busoga

Liiba's „

Bukoiige, near Luba's, Ikisoga

Kalanga, Bust)ga

Biidolo liill, Bukcdi

Lubusa hill

Amagaiida hill ..

Nabutitisi liill

]\[anijet'e hill
Namanswa hill ,,
Asitosiro hill
Madegi hill
Sunurwa hill
Natere hill
Makakala hill .,
Wadiibi ,

Bugagi hill ,,

Nagabu hill
Kumaga hill ,,
Bukyan ,,

Nagarive hill .,
Magamiti hill
Nelubi hill
Kumaga, Nasika „
!Masige hill
Musara hill ,,

Kyabala ,,

))
Eiver Ntowolo .,
Kuzaki hill ,,

Mulawa hill

Kadiidaum hill

BusOfJA AND VflKKhl—fco/ltimifd).

Xiiiiie.

Magnetite.
Quartz with mica.
Ferruginous schi.st.

Magnetite.

Quartz.
Mica schist.
Gneiss.
Decomposed rock.

(jriaiiite.
L)Lconi])osed rock.

Quartz.

Decomi)osed rock.
Large felspar crystal,
decomposed rock.

Magnetite.
Decomposed rock.

Pegmatite.
Decom])Osed rock.

Pegmatite.
Granite.

Kanun-ujo hill
Nabare hill
Kakani hill

Islands along North Shore of L
Bugaya islands

Small island near Bagi, Buvunia

]\Iain island, Ikivuma

Buvunia. Marabio island .....

Quartzite.
Pegmatite.
Gneiss.

Schist.
Cineiss.

(xranite.
Tuti".

AKE Victoria Xyanza.

Quartz, ironstone, ferruginou.s'

sandstone, (piartzite, claystone.
Phyllite.

Quartz with mica.
Bed ferruginous schist.
Ferruginous schist.

308

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

Near Kisubi
Entebbe
Kampala .
Entebl:)e

Near Kisubi

Bay bL'tween Saiigo and Kisubi

Between Kisubi and Kampala

Sango ....

Tagana ....

Eight miles west of Katonga River inoAtli

Central pHoviNtE — (conti uncd ).
Uganda (Kingdom of).

lity. Nan e.

Ferruginous sandstone.
Quartz.

Clay.

., with muscovite.
Ferruginous sand>t< mo

quartzite.
Ferruginous schist.
Sandstone.

and

Quartzite.
Diatomaceous earth.

AVE8TEEN PEOVIXCE.
Unyoro.

Territory of Chief Tibansamba

Territory of Chief ^lutwa

Territory of Chief Byabaswezi

Territory of Chief Kiza .

Territory of Chief Basigala
Territory of Chief Katalikao

Ferruginous schist or phyllite.
Limonite.
Ferruginous schist.
Decomposed rock.

„ gneiss.

Gneiss 1
Felsite ?
Mica-schist.
Gneiss ?
Dolerite ?
Gneiss.

Pyroxene-greruilite.
Quartz.
Junction of decomposed basalt ?

with schist.
Quartzite.
Quartz.

,, Avith grajihite.
(Traiiliite in decom]iosed gneiss.
Schist.

Decomjiosed rock.
Arkose ?

Ferruginous schist.
Lyddite.
Claystone.
Quartzite.
Ferruginous breccia.

,, quartz-. schist.

Schist.
Arkose.

Ferruginous schist.
Limonite.
Ferruginous schist.
Jjimonite.

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

:}()0

Notes on Hock Specimens i-ko.m rNYouo.
By Mk. G. T. I'kiou, Natlkal IIistokv Mlskc.m.

The specimens from Unvf ro in Sir Harry Johnston's collection of rocks from the Uf^anda
Protectorate con.sist mainly of a series of ferruginous shales, varying in colour from pale i)rown
and purple to deep brick-red, and sometimes banded with black lyddites and a few softer and
more scliistose phyllites.

These rocks present strikino' similarities with Hatch's " Hospital Hill " series of the
Southern Transvaal, and also with rocks from the Ingwenya I'erg, Swaziland. The "Hospital
Hill" series of ferruginous slales occurs in the neighbourhood of Johannesburg as part of
Hatch's Cape system with the Witwatersrand auriferous quartz-conglomerates immediately
above it. [^Quarterly Jnurnal (reological Society, iv. 18fls, if. 7;{, 99.]

The Swaziland ferruginous sliales, or "argillites,'' which probably belong to the same
series, occur in association with gold-bearing serpentine and talcose schists. [Geolo/jical
3Iar/a:inr, vi. 1899, pp. 105-111 ; the rocks marked T. B. in Professor Rupert Jones's list.]

Amongst the rocks from Unyoro is a .specimen of quartz which certainly presents some
points of resemblance with that of the auriferous Banket formation ot the Transvaal. Although,
in the absence of their field-relations, it is not advisable to lay too much stress upon the
resemblance of these rocks from Unyoro with the "Hospital Hill" series of the Transvaal,
yet the similarity of the rocks is sufficiently striking to suggest the idea that // gold /•< /t> be
found ill the Uganda Protectorate, Ungoro is the most likely district in which to looh for it.

Baei District, Nile Province.

LoGility.

Mount Belinian (Ineiss.

Jibalokaju, nortli-wtst of llajaf, left bank of Nile . .,

Mount Lado, left bank of Nile „

Twelve miles north of Bedden, right baidv of Nile . „

Near Bedden „

and basalt.

Near north-east slojies of Ituwcnzuri

TORO.

. Mica-scliist, liHrubJciide-sehist, and
diorite ?
Ruwenzori, south-east Hanks, 4,.-.00 feet to 1 3,000 feet Fibrolite.

Gneiss with chlorite.

Gneiss

(xranite.

Turt".

„ i)egniatite.

Gneiss with chlorite.

Gneiss.
E]iidiorite.

Mica schist.

Quartz.
Kpidiorite.

310

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

Province.
Ankole.

Locality.

jSTorth-AVest Aiikole .

One mile south west of Ki.'^a.^a ga}

Soutliern Ankole

Western and .Soi'.tli- Western Ankole

Xauie.

C^iiartz with mica, ijnartz with

oxide of iron, quartz grit with

mica from 1' S., 29" 51' E.
Tuff ? from Kicln\amlia, Eunyara-

guru.
Quartz with oxide of iron, decom-
posed mica-schist 1 from north of

Kisara, in Bunyaraguru Forest.
Quartz, quartzite, mica schist from

Egara hills.
Ha?matite-schist, oxide of iron

from El:);iri.
Quartzite, ferruginous sandi^tone

with mica from Xyakabingo,

Bukanga.
Quartz, ironstone.
Quartz.
Granite.

Quartz with tourmaline.
Coarse sandstone.
Oolitic ironstone.
Quartz.

FeiTuginous shale.
Tourmaline and quartz from

Charienzi.
Iron wire made from ore found at

Kahiro.
Impure kaolin (maiidy (piartz)

from Mbarara.
Quartz from Ruhihi Senia.
„ ,, Ml)iumbi, Egara.

„ with mica from Kisenyi,

Egara.
Quartz from C'hamianga, Kuzum-

buru.
Quartz from Xianuzi, Buzumburu.
„ with oxide of iron from

Xgoma, Luchika.
Clay (decomposed schist) from

15 miles north-east of Blount

Mfumbiro, Luchika,
Basalt, scoria, clay, quartz and

ferruginous sandstone from

mountain between LakeChagasa

and Mount Mfund)iro.
Quartz with mica from north end

of Eake Kikombe.

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY :ni

Mr. (!. 'P. Trior C()iitril)ut((l ti) the Mineralogical Society (ni .Mar(-li 2.")tli, l!i():i, a
liajier on the jietrology of J^)ritish East Africa, the result of exaiiiiiiatioiis of tlie
€ollectioii of rock specimens made by Professor J. W. Oregory during his expedition
to Mount Kenya and Lake Baringo in 1892-3, and of collections from the Uganda
Protectorate made recently l>y Sir Harry Johnston. Descriptions were given of the
three main groups of rocks — viz., the basement Archa>an gneisses and schists, the
PaliEozoic shales and sandstones, and the Tertiary volcanic rocks. The gneisses and
schists are associated ■with dykes both of acid ])egmatites and of Vjasic diabasis and
epidiorites, and also with granulitic rocks analogous to the Charnockite series of India
and Ceylon. Of the PaUeozoic Karagwe series a collection of ferruginous shales
and siliceous schists from I'nyoro was described. These rocks present striking
similaiities with those of Hatch's Hospital Hill .series of the Transvaal and with
rocks from the Ingwenya Berg, Swaziland, and a correlation between the Karagwe
series and the Cape system vi the Transvaal was suggested. The volcanic rocks
consist mainly of soda-rich i)honolitic rocks which have resulted doubtle.ss from a
nepheline-syenite magma. The lavas from the volcanoes of the Great Rift Valley
and of ^Nlount Kenya and the region between are characterised, like those of the
Canary Islands and the Azores, by the prevalence of anorthoclase, by the large amount
of soda-amphiboles (cossyrite, catophorite, arfvedsonite), as well as of soda-pyroxenes
and by the absence of sphene and noseau. They form a remarkable example of a
rock series showing a gradation in composition from basic i)honolites, containing
nepheline both in large phenocrysts and in the ground-mass, through jihonolitic
trachytes containing no recognisable nepheline, to ])honolitic quartz-trachytes, and
finally to acid riebeckite-rhyolites containing much quartz. The later erui)tive rocks
from Mount Elgon and the western side of the Great Pift Valley i)resent some
points of distinction A\ith the earlier erupted rocks. They are generally of a more
basic character like those of Kilimanjaro as compared with those of Mount Kenya.
Another point of distinction is the presence in them of titanic acid in large amount,
in the form of perofskite in the more basic nephelinites, and as sphene in the ithonolites,
Avhich are of the more ordinary tyjie without soda-ami)liiboles. Most of the specimens
from :Mount Elgon and the neighbourhood consist of nejihelinites, but in some of them
the nepheline, both as phenocrysts and in the ground-mass, is partially or wholly
replaced by melilite. Examples of rnelanite-nepheline rocks allied to borolanite,
and of monchiquite dyke-rocks from :Mount Elgon, were also described. A specimen
of nephelinite from the neighbourhood of Ptuwenzori containing much ])erofskite
•suggested the contemporaneity of the eruptive rocks of :Mount Elgon and of the volcanic
redon at the foot of Mount Kuwenzori.

312

METEOROLOGY AND GEOLOGY

SALT SPRINGS NEAR EAST SHORE OF LAKE ALBERT NYANZA.

Analyses of Samples of Watek and Salt frum Kibero Springs, Unyoko.

The folloAving reiiort Avas obtained by the Crown Agents for the Colonies from
Messrs. Stanger t*i: Blount, Chemical Laboratory, 2, Broadway, Westminster.

The waters were slightly yellowish in colour, and contained a small amount of

black sediment.

Mineral Sprinij Xo. 1.

Grains per gallon.

Silica (SiO,) 3-64^

Ferric oxide + alumina (Fe^OjAl., + O;,)
Lime (CaO) . . . . " .
Magnesia (MgO, ....

Soda (Na,0)

Potash (K/J)

Carbonic anhydride (CO.j).
Sidphuric anhydride (SO.,)
Chlorine

Deduct oxygen equivalent to chlorine

Combined water, organic matter, and loss

Total solids
The chief salts probably present are therefore —

Grains per
fiallon.

0-70

6-44

2-66

155-82

20-23

0-42

10-13

194-46

394-50
43-82

350-68
20-74

371-42

Sodium chloride (NaCl) . . 294-05 Magnesium sulphate (^IgSOj)

Potassium chloride (KCl) . . 32-07 ^Magnesium chloride (^IgCL)
Calcium sulphate (CaSOj) . . 15-64 ^lagnesium carbonate (MgCOg)

The samide is a highly saline water, from which common salt could be easily
prepared by evaporation. It also contains a noteworthy quantity of potassiunt

Grains \er
gallon.

2-79
0-99

0-80

salts, the recovery of which from the molten liquor
manure.

Mineral Si>rin<j Xej.

Silica (SiO.,)

Ferric oxide + alumina (Fe.O:, + AbO;,) .

Lime (CaO)

Magnesia (MgC ) . . . .
Soda(Na,0)
Potash (K.X)) .
Carbonic anhydride (CO/)
Sulphuric anhydride (SO:,)
Chlorine ....

Deduct oxygen equivalent to chlorine

Total solids

night yield a valuable artificial

Grains per gallon.

1-96

0-£6

3-CO

1-26

124-28

12-46

7.29

7-00
140-42

298-73
31-64

267-09

PLATE VII

T a Bartlinlc

UGANDA PROTECTORATE
GENERAL DISTRIBUTION AND RANGE OF VEGETATION.

CiTAPTER XT

BOTANY

rr^HE aspect of the Hora of the Uganda Protectorate, as it woukl strike the
-L unscientitic traveller passing hurriedly through the country, has h.een
dealt with in the earlier chapters of this book, which attempted to give an
approximate idea of the general aspect of the landscapes.

P>om a botanical point of view the Protectorate may be divided perhaps-
into five regions : —

(1) The first I would characterise as the Soniali Befjion, which would
include the arid country in the basin of Lake Ivudolf, and up the Kift
Yallev as far as the north end of Lake Ikringo. Some aspects of this-

208. FLAT-TOl'1'El) ACACIA (UKOWIXG AT AUOLT b,000 FEKT
INDKK THE EQUATOU), VERY CHARACTERISTIC OF
THE HII.I.Y CENTRAL AFRICAN REGIOX^5

Somali steppe region reappear again in the Rift Valley to the south of
Lake Naivasha. This region would be characterised by a sparse vegeta-
tion almost identical with that found in Somaliland, with a few types^

313

314

BOTANY

perhaps characteristic of tlie Sahara Desert or of the southern slo[;es of
the Abyssinian mountains.

(2) The East African Region, a land of grass, Borassus, Hyphcene,
<and wild date palms,* euphorbias, acacias, thorn-bushes, Sanseviera, and

209. CUKIOU.S FUXGU.S COMMON IX FOKKsT KEGION.S

perhaps baobabs,! which is particularly characteristic of the low-lying
parts of German, Portuguese, and British East Africa, and of some parts

* Possibly Phwnix spinosa.

t Though none have yet been reported from within the limits of the I'ganda
Protectorate.

2IO. A POPOC.IK/'IS (yew) TKKE 0\ NANKI I'l.ATKAl

"^

EOTANY

'Ml

of Africa to the south of the Zambezi. This ty[)ica] East Afrit-an tlura
appears in the Nile Province below an altitude of 3,()()() feet, in the
northern parts of the Central Province, in the proxiniitv of Lake P>aringo,
and perhaps in the up[)er part of the Seniliki A'alley and the northern
shores of Lake Albert Edward.

(3) The third region would be that which I should style the f'cnlvdl
African. The flora here is well represented by that of i^ritish ("cniral
Africa, a list of the principal forms of which apj)ears in my book dealing with

^:''*'f%wv.i*j<-i

212. JX)UELI.\S (A. STl'J/l..\/.l.\.\J : ) .VNU KMriH)FI.V.S UllOWl.Nu XV io,

I.N N.iM '1 I'l.A I I.Al

that country. This Central African region jjresupposes an average altitude
of 3,500 feet in the equatorial regions of Uganda. It is characterised by
abundant vegetation, a great deal of grass, many si)ecies of herbaceous plants,
rich forest in river valleys: in general, a transition between the poorer
East African flora and the forest region of West Africa. This well-vegetated
region is remarkable for its brilliantly coloured flowers, especially in the
interior parts of Kavirondo, Busoga, Uganda, Unyoro, Toro, and Ankole,
between 4,000 and 6,000 feet in altitude.

(4) Tlie West African Forest /ff7//oi^.— This is part iculaily characteristic
of the countries near the shore of the Victoria Nvanza, in Husoi;a. Uganda

318

BOTANY

(especially Buddu), and of the tSese Islands. Forest of W^est African affinities
is also present in Western Unyoro and Toro, on the west slopes of Mount
Elgon and the Nandi Escarpment, and in the Lower Semliki Valley and
Western Ankole. Many of the trees in these forests are also present in the
Congo basin and the (laboon and Cameroons ; but some, though very nearly
allied to West African forms, are in actual affinity with forest trees of the
western Nile basin. Palms of the gfenera Elans and Calamus so charac-

213. j:i<)-jjn;j_\j /o.u/\/o_\.i (akin Td ■nil-: ■"kaffik ii(_)o.M" (_)f soitii ai km a,i

teristic of West Africa appear to be totally absent from the Uganda.
forests.*

(o) The Plateau or Alpine Region. — Everywhere between 6,500 and
10,000 feet there is a flora which recalls alternately the trees and plants
of temperate .South Africa and temperate Abyssinia. It is characterised
by the shorter grass, the presence of conifers (yew and juniper), witch-uazels
(Trichoclddus), of Habenaria orchids, bamboos, giant lobelias, giant groundsels,
brambles, tree-heaths, tree-ferns, draca'uas (these also grow down to 4,000

* Sir Henry Stanley, however, asserts that be saw the £l<ris or Oil i)alui growing'
in the Semliki Forest (Buamha) on the verge of the Congo Free State.

SuNFLOWF.ks IN Uganda.

EOTAXY

311>

feet), kniphofias (•red-hot pokers"'), violets, l)uttercui)s, clover, forgct-inc-
nots, hypericums, gerauiunis.

A great many of the trees and jilants of the Uganda Protectorate wonld
be ornamental additions to our gardens and conservatories. As many of the
plants come from lofty regions subject to occasional low temperatures, not a
few of them would apparently stand cultivation in Kngland in the open air.
I certainly hope that the magniticent Eri/t/iriiui (of which 1 have sent a
number of seeds to Kew) may be introduced into cultivation, if it be not

214. CK/\r.U LII.V

already known. It is sufficiently illustrated in this book not to need any
further description. There is also the handsome Acanthus arhoreas,
illustrated in this book. The commonest species of this fine shrub has
blossoms of a beautiful mauve pink, but there is another s}iecies {A. emlnens}
that is never found below 8,000 feet, and seems to be confined in its range
to the Xandi Plateau, the flowers of which are equally large and of a vivid
ultramarine blue. The extraordinary lobelias of the Alpine regions would
make handsome additions to our ornamental plants, and they should thrive
well in a cold, moist climate. Some of the ipomceas (convolvuluses) and
solaruiins of high mountains which grow as creepers witii large flower-

320

BOTANY

-clusters, several species among the innumerable bean- and pea-flowers, the
musssendas (bushes with gorgeously coloured bracts of flowers of scarlet-

215. KAl'HIA I'AI.M OF Ul.AN]iA. FliUl'llNL.

•scrimson allied to the gardenia), and two or three kinds of clematis
would be handsome and interesting additions to the ever-extending list
•of our cultivated trees and plants. The white and pink-veined Crinum

VOL. 1.

21

322

BOTANY

lilies should not he overlooked. Amongst palms the Uganda Protectorate
produces a raphia, the Borassus Jiabellifer, possibly Hyphcene thehaica
(which is said to occur near the Nile, on the frontier of the Egyptian
Sudan, and also in part of the Ixudolf region), and the Phcenix
spinosa (?), or wild date. Although Uganda contains so much forest of

217. THE CONE OF A t'YCAU

West African appearance, I have not yet encountered the Oil palm
(■within the limits of Uganda), though I recognised it at once in the
Semliki Forest within Congo Free State territory. Cycads {Encephalartos}
are found in the river valleys of the District of Toro. In the same
district the Pandanus, or screw pine, appears, growing in rivers that
run through dense forests.

BOTANY

32a

r.lXD.lXrS, OR SCREW PINK

The following is a list of the plants collected bv me on the Kuwenzori
range between its base at 4,500 feet and snow level (13,000 feet) : —

Ranunculus puhescens, Thunl).

y^ymphcea stellata, Willd.

Ca rdam ine pra tensis. L.

Arahis alpina, L.

Polygala, near Fischeri, Cjurke.

Hypericum lanceolaUnn, Lam.

Symphoma sp.

Hibiscus Grantii, Mast.

Hibiscus ?

Greu'ia mollis, Juss.

G. pojndifolia, "N'ahl, forma (G. memhranacea, A. Rich.).

Geranium aculeolatum, Camb.

32i BOTANY

iDipatiens Ehlcrsii, Schweiiif.

Cardiospernium microcarpum, H.B. k K.

Bersama, cf. ahyssinica, I'res. Flowers only.

Dolichos shuterioides, Baker.

Milletia sp.

^Eschynomene sp.

Tephrosia dichroocarpa, 8tend.

Parochetus communis. Ham.

Cynometra Alexandri, C. H. Wright, sp. nov.

Alchemilla, near A. argyrophylla, 01 i v.

Ruhus D<jggettii, C. H. Wright, sp. nov.

Kalanchoe, cf. r/laucescens, Britten.

Comhretum racemosum, P. Beauv. (4,000 feet).

Begonia sp.

Anthriscus dissecttis, C. H. Wright, s]). nov.

Oldenlandia ahyssinica, Hiern.

Pentas Ainsivorthii, Scott-Elliot.

P. occidentalis, Benth. & Hook. f.

Pentas, near verticillata, K. Schum.

Visecta, cf. midtiflora, Sm.

Mussoenda erythrophylla, Schuni. tt Thonn.

Vernonia hymenolepsis, A. Rich.

Vernonia, cf. Melleri, Oliv. & Hiern.
Gerhera Lasiopus, Baker.

Coreopsis Steppia, Steetz.
HeUchrysum elegantissimum, Dl.
Helichrysum sp. Flowers only.

Senecio sp., near >S. Johnstoni, Oliv.

Senecio sp.

Eckinopts, cf. giganteus, A. Rich.

Lobelia Giherroa, Hemsl.

X. Deckenii, Hemsl.

Z. Stuhlmanni, Schweinf.

Erica arhorea, L. 1

Pkilippia s]).

Ascle2Mas macrantha, Hochst.

Belmontia grandis, E. Meyer.

Cynoglosswa coerideiwi, Hochst.

Solanum runsoriense, C. H. Wright, sp. nov.

Hypoestes triflora, Roem. & Schultes.

Justicia p>ing\dor, C. B. Clarke.

Streptocarpus caulescens, Yatke.

Lantana salviifolia, Jacq., var. termfoUa, Baker.

Premna sp.

Clerodendron myricoides, R. Bi'.

Celosia sp.

Fleurya ceshcans, Gaud.

Synadenium sp.

Arthrosolen latifoJius, Oliv.

Podocarpus sp.

Encephalartos sp. Leaflets only (4,000 feet).

BOTANY 325

Eulophia milanji((n<i, Iveiidle.

Eulo}>hia sj).

Poly stack] /a sp.

Angrciecuiii s]i.

Dim, Stairsii, Kriinzl.

Glddiolua quartinianus, A. Rich.

Asjjaragtts africamis, Tjam.

Chlorophj/t mil lile/iharoplii/lluin , Scliweiiif.

Scilld, sp.

Glorlosa virescens, Lindl.

Bulhostylis trichobasis, van unUeridUi, C. B. Clarke.

Pycreus rehmannianus^ C. B. Clarke %

Cm-ex 7-unssorensis, K. tScluim.

Poa sp.

Imperata arundinacea, Cyr.

Olyra latifolia, L.

Davallia elegans, 8w.

Cheilanthes farinosa, Kaulf.

Pterin flahellata, Thunh.

Asplenium furcaturn., Lam.

A. ariKenum, C. H. Wright, sji. iiov.

-4. rutcefolium, Mett.

Polypodium rigescens, Bory.

Lycopoditim dacrydioides. Baker.

Breutelia Stuhlniannii, Broth.

Polytrichum sp. (barren).

Rhacocarpus liumhohltii (Spreng.).

Herherta jtmiperina. Spruce {Sendtnera jtmiperina, Nees).

Plagiochila sp. (barren).

The following is a description by Mr. AN'riglit of tlie new plants fi-oni
Kuwenzori : —

Cynometra Alexandi-i, C. H. Wright, a C. Mdmiii, Oliv., pediccllis iion fcrrugiiieo-
tomentosis facile distinguiter.

Arbor 60 pedalis, raiiiis elcmgatis ex caule brevi ortis, raniulis virgatis leuticellis
praediti. Folia bijuga, subsessilia ; foliola oblique lanceolata, acuminata, obtusa, glabra,
inferiores 9 lin. longa, 4lin. lata, superiores Ih jjoll. longa, 6 lin. lata ; stipul;« laiiceoIat;e,
ad 3 lin. longte. Eacemi corymbosi, sessiles vel subsessiles; rhachis minute ]tubescen.s ;
pedicelli glabri, tenues, ad 6 lin. longi. Calycis tubas campanulatus, 1 lin. longus ;
segmenta elliptica, obtusa, 2 lin. longa. Petala oblonga, obtusa, dilute roseo vel alba,
3 lin. longa, 1 lin. lata. Stamina dilute roseo; filamerta glaV)ra, ad 4 lin. longa : anthene
globosa?. Ovarium oblongum, breviter stii)itatum ; stylus ovario leiiuilongus ; stigma
truncatum.

Toro District : Itivcr Kirurume, Alexander Johnston.

Ptd»(.'< Doggrttii, C. H. Wright, a P. apetalus, I'oir., differt foliis fere glabris et
petalis (piam sei)ala longioribus.

Folia pinnatim 5 foliolata ; foliula ellii)tica, basi rotundata, ajiice acuta, irrcgularitcr
crenato-serrata, glaberrima (nervis sid)tus pilo.sis exceptis), 24 poll, longa, circa 1 poll,
lata, breviter petiolulata, costa subtus spinis comi)re.s.sis recurvati.s instructa ; rhachis

326 BOTANY

minute pubescens, spinis acuti.s compressis recurvatis 2 lin. longis instructa ; stipulsB
ovatse, breviter acuminata?, basi rotundatas, pseudo petiolatse, ciliataj. Pedicelli appresse
pubescenti, dense spinosi. Flores 1| poll. diam. Se])ala lanceolata, acuminata, 8 lin.
longa, 2 lin. lata, utriiKjue dense albido-tomentosa, ad costam parce spinosa. Petala
suborbicularia, emarginata, breviter unguiculata, 9 lin. longa. Filamenta comi)lanata,
2j lin. longa ; antherce oblongo-lanceolatas, 1 lin. longa\ Ovarium leviter falcatum,
lateraliter compressum, dorso tomentosum ; stylus 2 lin. longus ; stigma punctiforme.
Ruwenzori, 8,500 to 12,000 feet, W. G. Doggett.

Anthriscus dissectus, C. H. Wright, a speciebus reliquis differt foliis magis divisis
lobis ultimis angustis.

Herba robusta, fere undique hirsuta. Caulis 1 poll, diam., sulcatus. Folia quinque-
pinnatipartita, deltoidea, Ij ped. longa, 9 poll, lata, segmentis ultimis obliquis, 1 lin.
longis, ^ lin. latis, valde acuminatis ; vagina? laxa\ Umbellae paucifloi'te ; bracteolis
ellipticie, mucronatse, valde costata?, ciliata?, \h-2 lin. longae, 1 lin. latte ; pedicelli
fructiferi 2 lin. longi. Petala viridi-flava ; anterior obcordatum, 1 lin. longium, | lin.
latum ; lateralia oblique obovata, | lin. longa, f lin. lata ; posteriora obovata, i lin.
longa, A lin. lata. Filamenta subulata ; antliera? subglobosse. Ovarium glabrum.
Fructus 3 lin. longus, glaber.

Ruwenzori, 8,000 to 11,000 feet, W. G. UoorjETT ; Kilimanjaro, 8,-500 feet, Sm H. H.
Johnston, G.C.M.G., K.C.B., No. 40.

First collected in young flower on Kilimanjaro, and afterwards in fruit on Ruwenzori.

Solanum runsoriense, C. H. Wright, ad ;S'. concinnum, Schott, accedit, foliis supra
subglabris floribusque majoribus differt.

Caulis scandens. Folia lanceolata, basi rotundata, supra pilis paucis simplicibus
deciduis instructa, subtus pilis stellatis dense vestita, Sh poll, longa, 1-lj poll, lata ;
petiolus 9 lin. longus. Infiorescentia terminalis, corymbosim paniculata, fere undique
pilis stellatis stipitatis vestita ; pedicelli 6 lin. longi. Calyx turbinatus ; lobi oblongi,
subacuti, i-2^ lin. longi, 1 lin. lati. Corolla cobaltina, paulo irregularis; tubus cam-
panulatus, 3 lin. longus ; lobi lanceolati vel ovati, acuminati, 5 lin. longi, 2-3 lin. lati.
Stamina exserta ; filamenta compressa, pubescentia, 1^ lin. longa ; anthen>? oblongae,
obtusa?, filamentis longiores. Ovarium globosum, | lin., glabrum ; stylus cylindricus,
glaber, 2| lin. longus.

liuwenzori, 8,r)00 to 9,400 feet, W. G. Doggett.

Asplenmm amoeuum, C. H. Wright, ex afHnitate A.furcati, Thunb., differt stipitibus
glabris et frondilius anguste oblongis.

Stipites nigelli, su]ira canaliculata, subter concavi, glabri, 3 poll, longi, basi squamulis
angustis brunneo-marginatis vestiti. Frondes ')h \)o\]. longae, l^ poll, latte, flavo-virides ;
rhachides stipitibus similes ; ])inna? lanceolati-deltoideie, profunde incis;e, lobis obtusis,
supra glabra?, subter squamulis minutis brunneis suff'ulta? ; vense furcata?. Sori ad
4 lin. longi, flabellatim disjjositi ; spora? Igeves, circa 40u longse, 30u lata?.

East Toro : River Kirurume, alt. 5,000 feet, W. G. Doggett.

It may also be useful if I give a list of the plants collected on the
slopes of Mount Elgon or on the adjoining Nandi Plateau : —

Farsetia stenoptera, Hochst.
Cleome diancha, Burch.
Ca2J2^aris spinosa, L., forma.
Polygala persica7-icefolia, DC. 1

BOTANY .'527

Viola ahyssinica, Steud.

Talinum cuneifoliuni, Willil.

Hypericmn lance(Antum, Lam.

Sida sp.

Ahutilon sp.

Pavonia kiliniandscharica, Ci ii rke.

Trihidiis terrestris. L.

Geranium simensf, Hochst.

Vitis quadramjidaris, \\\W\.

Jihus glaiccescenii, var. Kchiiiijx'ri, Oliv.

TrifoUtim subrotundum, Steud.

7\ a/ricanum, Ser. ?

tSeshania pubescens, DC.

Crotalaria labwnifolia, L.

Greivia asiatica, L.

Batddnia fassoglensis, Kotscliy.

Rubus rigid us, Sui.

Alcheviilla sp.

Kalanchoe sj).

Kalanchoe sp.

Trichocladus malosamis. Baker.

Cacoucia 2}(inictdata, Laws.

Combrettim sp.

Terminalia sp.

Trachydium abyssinicwn, Benth. tt Hook. f.

Lythrum rotundifolituii, Hochst.

EpiloJnum hirsictum, L.

Alepidea amatymbica, Eclil. & Zeyli.

Pentas thomsonii, Scott-Elliot.

Canthitirii sp.

Anthospermiim ^\).

Rubid cordifolia, L.

Scabiosa columbaria, L.

Felicia abyssinica, Sch. Bip.

Athrixia rosmarinifolia, Oliv. li: Hieni.

Emilia integrifolia, Baker.

Gerbera lasiopus, Baker.

Ifotonia grantii, Oliv. A: Hiern.

iSenecio sarmentosa, O. Hofi'iii.

*S'. mannii, Hook, f., var.

Helichri/sum declinatum, Less.

HeUchryswa sp.

tSphifranthus c)/afhuloides, O. Hoffni.

Tarchonanthus cai/iphoratus, L.

Conyza neivii, Oliv. & Hiern.

Ceirojjsis sp.

Cephalostigma sp.

Lobelia sp.

Z. deckenii, Hem si.

Enca arborea, L.

JasminumfloribiuiAjum, E. Br.

328 BOTAXY

Olea chrj/itophjiUa, Lam.

Asclejiias ijltfhfrriin'i, Schltr.

Marsdenia spissa, S. Moore, var.

Calotropis procera, E. Br.

Braclii/stelmajohnstoni, N. E. Br.

Heliotropium zei/lanicum. Lam.

Cynoglossum coeruletmi, Hochst.

Cuscuta ohtvsiflora, H. B. ct K.

Cuscula s]).

Solanmn hasti folium, Hochst.

Mhamphicnrjxi heuglinii, Hochst.

Cycnium s}).

Veronica africana. Hook. f.

Thiuihi-rgia (lihsoni, S. Moore.

Acanthus eviijiens, C. B. CI.

Hifjyoestes verticillaris, B. Br.

H. t7-iflora, Roem. k Sell.

Grossandra subacaidis, C. B. C").

Justicia anselliana, T. Aiideis.

Di/schoriste sp.

Hehenstreitia dentata, Linn.

Clerodendron mj/ricoides, E. Br.

Micromeria sji.

Ocimum cajntatuni, Baker.

Plectranthus sp.

Leiicas, near thi/moides, Baker.

Boerhaavia diffusa, L.

Pollichia campestris, Sol.

Deeringia celosioides, R. Br.

Digera arvensis, Forsk.

P^ipalia lappacea, Moq.

Cyathula sp.

Che no podium sp.

Polygonum senegalense, Moq.

Loranthus ffscheri, Engk

Euphorhia sp.

Podocarpus falcatus, E. Br.

Evlophia sp.

Eulophia sp., rootstock yielding gum.

Pancratium trianthum. Herb.

Sansevieria guineensis, ^^'ill(l.

>S'. stdcata, Boj.

.4/0^ sp.

Bnlhine asphoddioides, Eoem. it 8ch.

Ornithogalum melleri, Baker.

Scilla indica, L.

aS'. mctsta, Baker.

Aneilema cequinoctiale, Kunth.

Conimelina sp.

Cyx)er us papyrus, L., var. antiquorum, C. B. CI.

C exaltatus, var. rfiWs, Del.

BOTANY :',j()

Panicum {Echinochloa) sj).
Pennisetum sp.
Eraqrostris sp.
Cheilanthes inultijiiJn, Sw.
Osmiinda rcrialin, L.

This chapter may be concluded by a list drawn up for nie In .Mr. Wrii/ht,
under the direction of Sir William Thiselton Dyer, K.C.:M.g!, at tiie Kew
Herbarium, of all the plants known to occur wit hin the I'ganda Protectorate :

LIST OF THE

PLANTS OCCURRING IN THE UGANDA
PROTECTORATE,

COMPILED. BY PERMISSION* OF THE DIRECTOE, FKO.M MATERI.\LS IX THE HERBARIUM OF
THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW,

P.V C Tl. WEKiHT, A.L.S.

In compiling this list (which must be regarded as provisional) the collection of
Captains Speke and Grant has been taken as a basis, to which have been added the
collections of more recent explorers. Speke and Grant entered the region now
known as the Uganda Protectorate from the south about April, 1862, and, travellin"-
round the north-western shore of Lake Victoria as far as Mutesa's, struck northwards
and eventually quitted it in February, 1863, at Gondokoro on the Nile, ")' X. An
enumeration of the plants collected during this ex])edition ajjpeared as an ajipendix
to Speke's " Xile Journal," but subsequently a more detailed account, by Professor
D. Oliver, F.Pi.S., and others, was published in the twenty-ninth volume of "The
Transactions of the Linnean Society." The figures acconii)anying this paiier have been
quoted in the following list (under the abbreviation T.L.S.), as well as the plant-
names, when dift'ering from those now acceiited.

In 1880 a collection, chiefly from the Kingdom of Uganda, Avas received from
the Rev. C. T. Wilson, M.A., a missionary and the first European resident in that
country.

In the course of an expedition in 1890-1892, Dr. Stuhhnann collected to the
north-west of Lake A^ictoria and on some of the islands in that region, subsequently
journeying round the south and west of Lake Albert Edward, along the western
side of Piuwenzori, and through the Semliki Valley to the south-west of Lake Albert.

A short time afterwards Mr. G. F. Scott- Elliot, M.A., B.Sc., entering the Pro-
tectorate at ^lau, travelled westwards, and, having rounded the southern half of
Euwenzori, left the region and went southwards.

More recently Sir Harry Johnston, G.C.^f.G., K.C.B., and his collectors have
been busy, especially throughout the southern half of the Protectorate. The result
of their labours has been incorporated in the following list as far as possible, but
many of the plants collected by them have still to be determined, notably a large
collection made by Mr. Alexander Whyte.

In the course of his expedition to Mount Kenya, Dr. J. W. (Jregory collected a
few plants in the Kamjisia country.

The north-eastern part of the Protectorate remains to be explored botanically.

In this list " Uganda " refers in the restricted sense to the Kingdom or Province
of Uganda.

330 BOTANY

PHANEROGAMS.

Kanunculacese.

Clematis Thunhergii, Steud. Madi, Speke & Grant; Ukidi, Speke k Grant.
C. grata, Wall. Uganda, Speke & Grant.
Ramincuhis pubescens, Thunb. Euwenzori, Doggett.

Anonacese.

Anona senegalensis, var. latifolia, Oliv. Unyoro and Madi, Speke & Grant.
Hexalobus senegalensis, A. DC. Madi, Speke & Grant.
Ghasmanthera dependens, Hoclist, Unyoro, Speke & Grant.

ITymphaeaceae.

KyinphLi^a stellata, Willd. Congo Free State frontier, Doggett; Nile, 2" N.

Speke & Grant ; Uganda, very common, Wilson.
iV. Lottcs, L. Unyoro, Wilson ; Nile, 2° N., Speke & Grant.

Cruciferae.

Cardainine pfatensis, L. Euwenzori, Doggett.
Arahis alpina, L. Euwenzori, Doggett.
Farsetia stenojotera, Hoclist. Baringo, Johnston.

Capparidacese.

Cleome diandra, Hoclist. Baringo, Johnston.
C. mojiojihylla, L. Uganda, AVilson. T.L.S. xxix. t. 5, f. 1.
Gynandropsis j^entaphf/lla, L. Uganda, Wilson.
Courbonia decwmbens, A. Brongn. Madi, Speke ik Grant.
Boscia salicifolia, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Capparis spinosa, L., forma. Baringo, Johnston.
C. tomentosa. Lam., var. Madi, Speke k Grant.
Cratceva, religiosa, Forst. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Violaceae.

Viola abyssinica, Steud. Nandi Forest, Johnston.

Bixaceae.

Cochlospermwn niloticum, Oliv. j\Iadi, Speke k Grant. T.L.S. xxix, t. 7, f. 1.
Flacourtia sp. 3° 15' N., Speke k Grant.

Polygalaceae.

Folygala acicidaris, Oliv. Madi, Speke k Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 9, f. L

P. j)ersicaricefolia, DC. Unyoro, Speke k Grant ; Baringo, .Johnston. T.L.S. xxix.

t. 8, f. 1.
Folygala sp. Ankole, Doggett.

Caryophyllacese.

Folycarjxea corymbosa, var. effusa, Oliv. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Portulacaceae.

Fortulaca oleracea, L. Unyoro, Speke k Grant.

Talinwn cuneifolnim, Willd. Unyoro, Speke & Grant ; Baringo, Johnston.

Hypericacese.

Hypericum lanceolatum, Lam. Euwenzori, Doggett ; Nandi, Johnston.
Fsorospermimi febrifugum, Spacli, var. Uganda, Wilson.

BOTANY 331

Guttiferae.

Si/utphonin sp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Sipterocarpaceae.

Lophira alata. Banks. Madi, Speke li: Grant.

Malvaceae.

Si lilt ronlifolid, Ij. I'liyoro, S])eke ct- Grant ; Uganda, Wilson.
tS. rhomhifolia, \.. Unyoro Plateau, Speke k, Grant.
S. schimperiaiia, Hochst. Uganda, Wilson.
S. spiiwsa, L. Unyoro, Speke & Grant.
Sida sp. Baringo, Johnston.
Wissadula rostrnta, Planch. Uganda, Wilson.
Ahutilon sp. Baringo, .Johnston.
Urewj lohata, L. I'nyoro, Speke et Grant.
Pavonia kilimandscharica, Giirke. Baringo, Johnston.
P. macro}>h}/U(i, E. ^ley. Uganda, Speke k Grant.
Hibiscus articidatus, Hochst. Paiwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; Unyoro, Speke k Grant.

T.L.S. xxix. t. 13, f. 1.
II. escidentus, L. Unyoro, Speke k Grant.
H. Grardii, Mast. Bukedi, Ugani, and ^ladi, Speke it Grant ; Toro, Doggett.

T.L.S. xxix. t. 12, f. 1.
II. lunarifolius, Willd. Ruwenzori and Uganda, Scott-Elliot.
H. panduriformis, Burni. Unyoro, Speke it Grant ; Berkeley, Scott-Elliot.
H. phj/saloides, Guill. it Perr. ^Madi, Speke it Grant.
H. Sahdariffa, L. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
H. vitifolius, L. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Gossypmm barbadense, L. 3" X., Speke it Grant.
Adansonia dir/itata, L. 2" 'K., Speke k Grant.
Eyi'xJendron anfractuosum, DC. 2" N., Speke it Grant.

Sterculiaceae.

iStercidia cinerea, A. Rich. ^ladi, Speke it Grant.
Dombeya Mastersii, Hook. f. Chiope, Speke it Grant.

B. viidtijlora, Planch, ^[adi, Speke it Grant.

D. reticidata, Mast. 3° N., Speke k Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 1"), f. 1.
Melhania ferruginea, A. Rich. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. IG, f. 1.

Tiliaceae.

Greu'ia asiatica, L. Baringo, Johnston.

G. mollis, Juss. Toro, Doggett.

G. popidifolia, Yahl, forma. Toro, Doggett.

TriumfeUa anmca, L. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

Triumfettn sp., cf. T. tomentosa, Boj. L'ganda, Wilson.

Corchorus olitorius, L. L'ganda, Wilson.

C. tfilocidaris, L. Unyoro, Si)eke it Grant.

Zygophyllaceae.

Tribidus terrestris, L. Baringo, Johnston.

Oerauiaceae.

Guviu'um aculeolatum, Camb. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
G. simense, Hochst. Nandi Plateau, Johnston.
Impatiens Ehlersii, Schweinf. ? Ruwenzori, Doggett.

332 BOTANY

Geraniace.*: — (cotitinued).

Od-alis corniculata, L., forma. Uganda, Wilson.

0. {Biophytiua) sensitiva, L. Unyoro, Speke tV: Grant.

Siiuarubacese.

Jjdlanitfs mij/2)tiaca, Del. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Harrisonia ahyssinica, Oliv. Madi, 8peke & Grant. T.L.8. xxix. t. 18, f. 1.

Ochnacese.

Orhnd sp ? Madi, Speke it Grant.

Burseracese.

Bosivellia sp. ? Madi, Speke and Grant.

Bal samodend^'on africannm, var. ahyssinica, Oliv. Ugani, Speke it Grant.

Meliacese.

I'lidiilia emetica, Yah]. ]\[adi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. -20, f. 1.
Ehaya se7iec/alensis, A. Juss. Madi, Sj^eke it Grant.
Soinnichi sp ? !Madi, Speke it Grant.

Olacacese.

Ximenia americaiia, L. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Opilia amentacea, Eoxb. Madi, Speke it Grant.

Celastraceae.

(J('/(fsfnis xenegalensis, Lam. Madi, Speke it Grant ; Uganda, Wilson.

Rhamnaceae.

Rliamnus sp. 3° N., Speke it Grant.
Zi~.yphus jujuba, Lam. Madi, Speke it Grant.

Ampelideae.

Vitis adenotrndis, Steud. Unyoro, Speke tt Grant.

V. cornifolia, Baker. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 22, f. 1.

V. cyphopetala, Fres. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

V. quad rangtdaris, L, l^nyoro, Speke it Grant ; Baringo, Johnston.

SapiudacecB.

Cardiospeiinum Halicacahum, L. Unyoro, Sjjeke it Grant ; Uganda, Wilson.
C. microcarpum, H. B. ct K. Ruwenzoi'i, Doggett.

Anacardiacese.

Ehus giaucescens, A. Eich. Madi, Speke & Grant ; Uganda, Man, and Nandi, Scott-
Elliot ; var. Sckimperi, Oliv. Baringo, Johnston.
Odina fruticosa, Hochst. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Sderocarya Birrea, Hochst. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Beisama s})., cf. B. ahyssinica, Fres. Kuwenzori, Doggett.
Leguminoss.

Crotalaria afrorubens, Hochst. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.

C. calycina, Schrank. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

C. cephidotes, Steud. ^ladi, Speke ct Grant ; L'ganda, Wilson.

C. glauca, Willd. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

C. hyssopifolia, Klotzsch. Man, Scott-Elliot.

C. incana, L. Uganda, Wilson.

C. intermedia, Kotschy. 2° N., Speke it Grant.

C. labiirnifolia, L. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; Baringo, Johnston.

C. natalitia, Meisn. Kuwenzori and LTganda, Scott-Elliot.

BOTANY 333

LeguminoSjE — (continued).

Crotalaria recta, Steud. Uganda, Wilson.

C. sjnnom, Hochst. Ankole, Lake Albert Edward, and Kuwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

C. striata, DC. Uganda, Wilson.

Parochetus communis. Ham. Ituwen/.ori, Doggett.

Trifoliiim africamun, Ser. 1 Nandi I'lateau, Johnston.

T. suhrotundiwi, Steud. Nandi Plateau, Johnston.

Indigo fera arrecta, Hochst. Ituwenzori, Scott-]*^lliot.

/. capitata, Kotschy. Madi, Speke it (jri-aiit.

I. endecaphylla, Jacq. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

/. hirsuta, L. Unyoro, Speke & Grant.

/. macrocarjja, Lepr. Kuwcnzori, Scott-Elliot.

I. 2Jentaphylla, L. Madi, Si)eke it Grant; Lake Elmenteita and Man, Scott-Elliot.

/. secundijk)7-a, Poir. ITnyoro, S])eke k Grant ; Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.

/. stenophylla, Guill. k Perr. Madi, Speke it Grant.

/. suhulata, Vahl. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

Tejyhrosia dichroocarjxi, Steud. Puwenzori, Doggett.

7\ lom/ipes. LTganda, Wilson.

T. poli/sperma, Baker. Uganda, Speke & (Trant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 30, f. 1.

T. rigida, Baker. Madi, Si^eke it Grant.

T. villosa, Pers. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.

T. Vonelii, Hook. f. Ruwenzori and Uganda, Seott-EUiot ; Unyoro, Speke it

Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 31, f. 1.
Tephrosia spp. Uganda, Wilson.
Alilletia sp. Ankole, Doggett.
Seshania ccgyptiaca, Pers. Madi, Speke ct Grant.
;S'. pubescens, DC. Baringo, Johnston.
Astragalus venosus, Hochst. LTganda, Speke & Grant.
Herminiera Elaphroxylon, Guill. it Perr. ITpper Nile, 3' to 8' N., Speke tt

Grant ; shallow water of Lake Victoria Nyanza, Johnston.
^Eschyno-mene indica, L. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
jEschynometie sp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
Arachis hypogcea, L. Cultivated to a small extent from 7° S. to 2° N., Speke it

Grant.
Zornia diphylla, Pers. I'ganda, Wilson ; T^nyoro, Speke it Grant.
Desmodium lasiocarpum, DC. Uganda and Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Desmodium s]:)p. Uganda, Wilson.

Pseudarthria Ilookeri, W. it A. Uganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
Pseuda7-thria sp. Uganda, Wilson.
Urariapicta, Desv. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Ahrus Schimperi, Hochst. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Glycine javanica, L. Uganda, Wilson.
Teramnus lahialis, Spreng. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.
Canavalia ensiformis, DC. Chiope, Speke it Grant.
Vigna luteola, Benth. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.
V. nilotica, Hook. f. 2° N., Speke it Grant.
V. vexillata, Benth. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Dolichos Lahlah, L. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

D. shuterioides. Baker. Toro, Doggett.
Dolichos sp. ? Madi, Speke & Grant.

Cajamis imlicus, Spreng. LTnyoro, Speke it (rrant.

334 BOTANY

Leguuinosm— (continued ).

Rhynchosia Grantii^ Baker. Unyoro, Sjieke k Grant.

R. viscosa, DC. Uganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.

Eriosema Elliotii, Baker f. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.

E.flemimiioides, Baker. Madi, Speke & Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. .34, f. 1.

E. parvijiorum, E. Mey. Berkeley Bay, Victoria Xyanza, Scott-Elliot.

Didhergia melanoxylon, Guill. A: Perr. ^Madi, Si^eke A: Grant.

Lonchocarpus laxiflorus, Guill. & Perr. Madi, Speke &: Grant.

Stvartda madac/ascariensis, Desv. Madi, Si)eke Sz Grant.

Cordyla africana, Ijour. Six miles south of Gondokoro, Speke tt Grant.

Parkinsonia acideata, L. Gondokoro (introduced), Speke & Grant.

Cassia didymohotrya, Fres. I^ganda, Wilson ; j\Iadi, Speke k Grant.

C. Kirkii, Oliv. Uganda, Wilson.

C. miiiiosoides, L. Unyoro, Speke k Grant.

C. Tora, L. Uganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke tt Grant.

Baukinia fassoglensis, Kotschy. Baringo, Johnston.

B. reticulata, DC. Uganda, Wilson; Unyoro, Speke k Grant.
Detarium senegalense, Gmel. Madi, Speke k Grant.
Cynometra sp. Toro, Doggett.

Mimosa asperata, L. jNIadi, Speke k Grant.

Acacia Catechu, Willd. JNIadi, Speke ct Grant.

A. hecatophylla, Steud. Madi, Speke k Grant.

A. sieheriana, DC. !Madi. Speke k Grant.

A. stenoca7-pa, Hoclist. jNIadi, Speke it Grant.

Acacia sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Alhizzia rhomhifolia, Benth. 1 Madi, Speke k Grant.

Rosaceae.

Rulnts rigidus, Sm. Nandi Forest, Johnston.
Ridfus sp. Euwenzoi'i, Doggett.
Alchemilla sji. Near El Burgan, Johnston.
Alchemilla sp. Euwenzori, Doggett.

Crassulacese.

Bryoj'hyUiDii cal yet iiuiii, Salisb. Madi, Speke k Grant.
Kalanchoe sp. Eavine, Johnston.
Kalanchoe sp. Baringo, Johnston.
Kalanchoe sp. Toro, Doggett.

Hanianielidacese.

Triflinvhitlus malosanus, Baker. Nandi Forest, Johnston.

Combretaceee.

Terniinalia macroptera, Guill. it Perr. Madi, Speke and Grant.

Terminalia sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Anogeissus leiocarjms, Guill. k Perr. Bari country, 4° N., Speke k Grant.

Gombrettcm cajntuliflorurn, Fenzl. Madi, Speke & Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 38, f. 1.

C. collinum, Fres. Madi, Speke k Grant.

C. glutinosum, Guill. it Perr. Madi, Speke k Grant.
C. petitianum, A. Piich. Madi, Speke it Grant.
C. racemosum, P. Beauv. Lake Nyabukere, Doggett.
C. reticulatum, Fres. Madi, Speke it Grant.

BOTANY 335

CoMBRETACE^ — (contimied).

Coinhretum sp. Mau Plateau, Johnston.
Cacoucia paniculata, Laws. Baringo, Johnston.

Myrtaceae.

Emji iiiit omM-inma, P. P>eauv. Madi, Spcke k Grant.

Melastoniacese.

OsUckia sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Dissotis jietiolata, Hook. f. Madi, 8peke & (irant.

Di.^wtis i^\). Uganda, Wilson.

Lythraceae.

Scofi ro)rIata, Hiern. INIadi, Speke it (xrant.

Lytkriuii rotundifolium, Hochst. Nandi Plateau, Johnston.

Ammania senegalensis, Lam. Madi, Spcke it (Irant.

Jiissima diffusa, Forsk. Uganda, Wilson ; TJnyoro, Sjieke <.t (irant.

J. pilosa, H. B. ct K. On the Nile, 4' N., 8peke it Grant.

J. villosa, Lam. Bukedi and Madi, Speke & Grant.

Ludwiyia ■parviflora, Roxb. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

L. prostrata, Roxb. Uganda, Wilson.

Onagrariaceae.

Epilohiuin hirsutiun., L. Rmvenzori, Scott-Elliot ; Lake Naivaslia, .Johnston.
Trapa natans, L. Floating on the Nile at 2° N., shores of the Mctoria Nyanza at
the equator, and Katonga River, Speke ct Grant.

Cucurbitaceae.

Lagenaria vulgaris, Ser. Unyoro, S])eke it Grant.
Momordica Morhorro, A. Rich. Ukidi, Speke it Grant.
Cucurbita maxima, Duch. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
Bryonopsis laciniosa, Arn. Unyoro, Speke & Grant.
Mdoihria triangidaris, Benth. Unyoro, Speke ife Grant.

Begoniaceae.

Jinjoiiin sp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Unibelliferae.

llydrocotyle natans, Cyr. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

Alejddea amatimhica, Eckl. it Zeyh. Kavirondo, Scott -Elliot, Johnston.
Trachydium abyssinicum, Benth. it Hook. f. Nandi Plateau, Johnston.
Diplolophiuiii abyssinicwa, Benth. it Hook. f. Uganda, Wilson ; ^ladi, Speke &

Grant.
Peucedanum fraximfullum, Hiern. ^ladi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 42, f. L
P. Grantii, Kingston. Unyoro, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t 43, f. 1.
Aiithr/scus dissectus, C. H. Wright. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Rubiaceae.

Sa7'cocephalus Russeggeri, Kotschy. ]\[adi, Speke it Grant.

Hymenodictyon sp ? Madi, Speke it Grant.

Crossopteryx kotschyana, Fenzl. Madi, Speke & Grant.

Pentas Ainsworthii, Scott-Elliot. Western Uganda, Doggett.

P. occidentalis, Benth. it Hook. f. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

P. quaytmiaiui,\iiook. i. Madi and Bukedi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 46, f. 1.

P. Tlioiasonii, Scott-Elliot. Nandi, Scott-Elliot, Johnston.

336 BOTANY

B.UBIACEM— (continued ).

Pentas sp. Toro, Doggett.

Pentas sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Virecta sp., cf. V. multijlora, Sm. Ankole, Doggett.

Otomeria madiensis, Oliv. Madi, Speke k Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 47, f. 1.

Hedijotis sp. 1 Uganda, Wilson.

Oldeidandia ahyssinica, Hiern. Congo Forest, Doggett.

0. Heymi, W. & A. Uganda, Speke tt Grant.

Musscenda erythroplv/lla, )Sch. it Tlionn. liuwenzori, Doggett.

M- luteola, Del. Gani and Madi, Speke ct Grant.

Bandia dumetoriim, Lam. ? Madi, Speke c\: Grant.

Gardenia lutea, Fres. Madi, Speke & Grant.

G. Thiinbergia, L. f. Uganda, Wilson.

Tricalyda sp. 1 Madi, Speke lVt Grant.

Plectronia venosa, Oliv Madi, Speke A: Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 49, f. 1.

Canthmm sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Vangueria sp. 1 ^Nladi, Speke cV: Grant.

Ixora spp. 1 Madi, Speke et Grant.

Coffea arabica, L. Waiehiru, near Lake Victoria Nyanza, Speke ct Grant.

Rytidea sp. 'I L^ganda, Wilson.

Anthospermum sp. Nandi Forest, Johnston.

Spermacoce avipliata^ Oliv. L^nyoro, Speke tl' Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 54, f. i.

S. hehecarpa, Oliv. 1 Ukidi, Speke & Grant.

S. kotschyana, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 53, 1 1.

S. sjjhcenostigma, A. Rich. ? Uganda, Wilson.

S. stricta, L. f. Bukedi Forest, Speke & Grant.

Mitixicarinim senegalense, DC. Unyoro, Speke A: Grant.

Buhia cordifolia, L. Uganda, Wilson ; a\Ian, Johnston.

Dipsaceee.

Scahiosa Colurnharia, Jj. Kandi Plateau, Johnston.

Compositse.

Gutenbi^rgia cordifolia, Benth. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.

Bothriocline Schimperi, Oliv. & Hiern. Uganda, Wilson.

Vet-nonia ambigua, Kotschy & Peyr. Madi, Speke k Grant.

V. cinerea, Less. Uganda, Wilson.

V. Grantii, Oliv. Unyoro, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 57, f. 1.

V. hymenolepis, A. Piich. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

V. Perrottetii, Sch. Bii). Madi, Speke & Grant.

V. pwnila, Kotschy k Peyr. Uganda, Wilson ; Madi, Speke it Grant.

V. puiytirea, Sch. Bip. ]Madi, Speke ct Grant.

V. thomsoniana, Oliv. it Hiern. Madi, Speke it Grant.

V. turbinata, Oliv. ct Hiern. Madi, Speke ct Grant.

F. violacea, Oliv. ct Hiern. Uganda, Wilson ; ]\Iadi, Si^eke ct Grant.

Vernonia spp. Uganda, Wilson.

Vernonia sp. Western Ankole, Doggett.

Adenostemma viscosnm, Forst., forma, Uganda, Wilson.

Ageratum conyzoides, L. Uganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.

Felicia abyssinica, Sch. Bip. Man Plateau, Johnston.

Erigeron Grantii, Oliv. it Hiern. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 58, f. 1.

Conyza oigyptiaca. Ait. ITnyoro, Speke ct Grant.

BOTANY 337

Composite — (vontin iie,!).

Comfza Neivii., Oliv. it Hieni. Nandi, Johnston.

Cowj/za sj). Uganda, Wilson.

Tarchominthus cmnphoratics, L. Mau Plateau, Johnston.

Jihimea lacera, DC. Uganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.

Lagqera alata, Sch. Bip. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

L. pterodonta, Sch. Bip. Unyoro, Speke & Grant.

Sx>hoeranthus cyathulokles, O. Hoffm. Baringo, Johnston.

S. suaveolens, DC. Madi, Speke & Grant.

Helichrysum (ledinatum, Less. Nandi Plateau, Johnston.

//. elegrnitissimun, DC. Pvuwenzori, Doggett.

//. umlatum, Less. Uganda, Wilson.

llelichrj/sum sp. Nandi, .Johnston.

Ilelichrysum sp. Ankole, Doggett.

Athrixia rosmarmifolia, Oliv. & Hiern. Nandi Forest, .Johnston.

Anisopa2^pus chinensi.% Hook. A: Arn. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxi.x. t. 64^

f. B.
Siegesheckia orientalis, J^ J'ganda, Wilson.

Aspilia Kotschyi, Benth. it Hook. f. I'ganda, 8i)eke it Grant, Wilson.
Aspilia sp. L'ganda, Wilson.
Coy^eojisis Stejijna, Steetz. Panvenzori, Doggett.
Coreojisis sp. Nandi Plateau, Johnston.
Coreo2)sis .sjd. Mau, Scott- Elliot.
Coreopsis sp. Ivavirondo, Scott-Elliot.
Coreopsis sp. Gani, Speke it Grant.
Chri/santhdlum indicum, DC. LTnyoro, Speke it Grant.
Chrysanthemum 2^i'ocuiiihens, Pers. I'ganda, Wilson.
Gynura vitellina, Benth. Uganda, Wilson.

Emilia integrifolia, Baker. Mau, Scott-Elliot ; Nandi Plateau, .Johnston.
Notonia ahyssinica, A. llich. Uganda, Wilson.
N. Grantii, Oliv. it Hiern. Nandi, .Johnston.
iSenecio discifolia, Oliv. l^ganda, Speke it Grant, Wilson.
aS'. Mamiii, Hook. f. Kivata, Kuwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; var., Nandi Forest,

Johnston.
>S'. sarmentosa, O. Hoft'm. Nandi I^lateau, .Jolinstnii.
Senecio sp. L^nyoro, S])eke it Grant.
Senecio spp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
Berkheya spekeamx^ Oliv. Uganda, Wilson ; J'nyoro and Madi, Speke iV: Grant.

T.L.S. xxix. t. 66, f. 1.
Echinoj^s a7)iplexicatdis, Oliv. Uganda, Wilson.
E. longifulius, A. Pdch. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Ec.hinops sj). Toro, Doggett.

Gerhera lasio/ms, Baker. Toro, Doggett ; Nandi I'lateau, Johnston.
G. piloselloides, Cass. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.
Sonchus oleraceus, L. L^nyoro, Speke it Grant.

Campanulacese.

Lobelia Deckenii, Hemsl. Ruwenzori, Doggett ; Nandi Plateau, Johnston.
L. Giberroa, Hemsl. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
L. Stuhlmamii, Schweinf. Ruwenzori, Doggett, Scott-Elliot.
Lobelia sp. ]SIau and Nandi J'lateau, Johnston.
VOL. I. 22

338 BOTANY

Campaxulace,!: — ■( continued).

Lobelia sp. Xandi Plateau, Johnston.

Cephalostigma sp. Xandi Plateau, Johnston.

Lightfootia ahi/ssinica, L. Euwenzori and Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.

Ericaceae.

Erica arhorea, L. Piuwenzori, Scott-Elliot, Doggett ; X^andi Forest, Johnston.
Phili'jy}na sp. Kuwenzori, Doggett.

Myrsinaceae.

Eiididia iiilotica, Uliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 71, f. 1.

Sapotaceae.

Chrysophyllum sp. Madi, Speke k Grant.
Chrysophyllum sp. 1 5° S. to 3° 15' X., Speke it Grant.
Mimusops Kummel, Hochst. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Butyrospermum Parkii, Kotschy. (Eassia Parkii, G. Don. T.L.S. xxix. t. 73. f. ].
Madi, Speke k Grant.)

Ebeuaceae.

Eiiclea Diviiwrunu Hiern. Uganda, Wilson.

Oleaceae.

Jasminum ahyssinicum, R. Br. Mau, Scott-Elliot.
J. floribuiulum, R. Br. Xaivasha, Johnston.

Linociera nilotica, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 117, f. 1.
Olea chrysop>hylla, Lam. Ruwenzori and Mau, Scott-Elliot : Xandi Forest,
Johnston.

Apocynacese.

Landolphiaflorida, Benth. Uganda, Wilson ; :Madi, Speke k Grant.

Carissa sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Garissa sp. Madi, 3° X^., Speke & Grant.

Adeninm apecioainn. Fenzl. Bari country, Speke lV: (rrant.

Asclepiadacese .

Tacazzea <i/>ic>d'it'i. Oliv. Madi and Gondokoro, Speke A: Grant. T.L.S. xxix.

t. 72, f. 1.
Toxocarpus africanus, Oliv. I^nyoro, Speke »t Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 118, f. A.
Gomphocarpus fruticosm, E. Br. Unyoro, Speke A: Grant.
G. physocarpus, E. Mey. Uganda, Wilson ; Madi, Speke ct Grant.
G. robustus, A. Rich. Unyoro, Speke A: Grant.
Gomphocarpus sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Calotroiiis procera, R. Br. 3' 15' X., Speke it Grant ; Baringo, Johnston.
Asclepius glaberrima, Schltr. Baringo, Johnston.
A. macmntha, Hochst. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
Asclepias sp. Uganda, Wilson.
Margaretta rosea, Oliv. L^ganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix.

t. 76, f. 1.
Marsdenia spissa, S. ^Sloore, var. Baringo, Johnston.
Doimia extensa, R. Br. 2° X'^., Speke and Grant.
Leptadenia hmcifolia, Decsne. Madi, Speke k Grant.
Bvachystelma Johmtoni, X. E. Br. Xandi, Johnston.

BOTANY :3:39

IiOganiacae.

Stri/chnos sp. Madi ami I'nyoro, Speke li: Grant.

Gentianacese.

JJtliuoiitid t/randis, E. Mey. Ankole, Doggett.
Faroa sp. I'gaiida, Wilson.

Octopleunt latseliokleti, var. compacta, Oliv. ]Madi, Speke it Giant. T.Tj.S. xx'ix.
t. 78, f. A.

Soraginaceae.

Coldenia pvocwahens, L. IMadi, Speke k Grant.

Heliotropium zei/Innicum, Lam. Baringo and Xaivasha, Johnston.

C'l/noglossum cutridcum, Hoclist. Jiuwenzori. Doggett ; Nandi I'lalean, .Tolinston.

<3onvolvulaceae .

Argyreia popuUfoIia, var. 'tfn'cDut, Oliv. Chiope, Si)eke tt ( Jrant.

Ipomvea Batatas, Lam. " Cultivated all the way from Zanzibar to Egypt," Speke

ct Grant.
/. capitata, Choisy. Madi, 3' 15' X., Speke it Grant.
/. conunatophylla, var. any ui^ti folia, Oliv. 2° N., Speke it Grant.
/. Grantii^ Oliv. Unyoro, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 80, f. 1.
/. involucrata, P. Beauv. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
/. pinnnta, Hoclist. Madi, Speke it Grant.
/. sessiliflora, Choisy ? Uganda, Wilson.

Hewittia hicolor, W. »fe A. Unyoro, banks of the Nile, Speke it Grant.
Convolvulus vialvaceus, Oliv. Chiope, 1° 40' N., Speke & Grant.
E volvulus alsiiioides, L. Unyoro, Speke & Grant ; var., Uganda, "Wilson.
U. dichondroides, Oliv. I'ganda, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 78, f. B.
Cuscuta ohiusiflora, H. B. it K. Man, Scott-Elliot ; Nandi Forest, Johnston.
Cuscuta sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Solanacese.

Solanum diiplosinuatum. Klotzsch. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

,S'. r/ufauteum, Jacq. I'ganda, Wilson.

,S'. hastifulium, Hochst. Baringo, Johnston.

,S'. nodiflorum, Jacq. Uganda, Wilson.

S. runsoriense, C. H. Wright. Euwenzori, Doggett.

Physalis oeqiuita, Jaci]. f. I'nyoro, Speke it Grant.

Physalis sp. Uganda. Wilson.

Capsicum conicu/ii, var. orientale, DC. L'nyoro, Speke it Grant.

Withania somnifer(t, Dun. Uganda, Wilson : Madi, 3° 15' N., Speke it Grant.

Xicotiana J'/ibariD/t, L. " Cultivated from 7' S. to 4' N.," Speke it Grant.

Scrophulariacese.

lleijiedisji'jiihunda, R. Br. ^ladi. 3° 15' N., Speke it (Jrant.

Dopatrium macranthum, Oliv. ]\Iadi, 3 15' N., Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix.

t. 121, f. A.
Vandellia lohelioides, Oliv. ^fadi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 121, f. B.
Bonnaya trichotoma, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 122, f. B.
Veronica africana, Hook. f. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; Nandi Plateau, Johnston.
Strif/a Forbesii, Benth. I'ganda, Wilson.

3i0 BOTANY

SCROPHULARIACE.'E —( ColltiliUnl ).

Striga herinonthica, Bentli. Unyoro, Si)eke ct Grant.

Jiha/uphicarjia_fistulos!(, Bentb. Madi, 8peke ct Grant.

E. Retiglinii, Hochst. Baringo, Johnston.

JihamjyhicarjKi sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Ci/cnium adoneme, E. Mey. Uganda, Wilson ; Madi, Speke A Giant ; Nandi,

Scott-Elliot ; var. adscendem, Oliv. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S. xxix.

t. 88, f. 1.
C. herzfeldiamwi, Engl. Buddu, Scott-Elliot;
Cycnium sp. Nandi, Johnston.
Sopidjia lanata, Engl. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.
*S'. ramma, Hochst. Buwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; l^ganda, Wilson ; Madi. Speke k.

Grant.

Lentibulariaceae.

Utricularia infiexa, Forsk. Nile, 2' N., Speke it Grant.
U. rejkxii, Oliv. Unyoro, Speke k, Grant.

Gesneraceae.

>itreptocarpUA aadescens, Vatke. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Bignoniaceae.

SteirosjtenitKHi dcntatum, A. Rich. ]\Iadi, Speke it Grant.

Spathodea nilotica, Seem.

SjMthodea sp. Unyoro, S]jeke & Grant.

Spathodea sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Spathodea sp. ? Madi, 3° 15' N., Speke & Grant.

Kigelia pinwita, DC. Madi, 3" N., Speke & Grant.

Acanthaceae.

Thunbergia sericea, Burkill. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.

T. Gibsotii, S. Moore. Mau, Gibson ; Nandi Plateau, Johnston.

T. cUata, var. vixalata, Burkill. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

JVelsoiiia campestris, R. Br. Ruwenzori and X^ganda, Scott-Elliot.

Brillantaisia Nyanzariuii, Burkill. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.

B. cicatricosa, Lindau. Ruwenzori, Stuhhnann.

£. patula, T. Anders. (B. alata, T. Anders. T.L.S. xxix. t. 124, f. 1). Uganda

and Unyoro, Speke & Grant.
Mellera lohulata, S. ]Moore. East side of Lake Albert Edward Nyanza, Scott- Elliot.
Mimulopsis spuhidata, C. B. CI. Mau, Scott-Elliot.
M. runssorka, Lindau. Ruwenzori, Stuhlmann.
M. ElUotii. C. B. CI. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
J/, arborescens, C. B. CI. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

Whitfieldia longlfolia, T. Anders. Sese Islands, Lake Victoria Nyanza, Stuhlmann.
Dyschoriste depressa, Nees. Mau, Scott-Elliot.
J), radicans, Nees. I'ganda, Stuhhnann.
Dyschoriste sp. Baringo, Johnston.
Phaylopsis longifolia, T. Thorns. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot ;

Madi, Speke lic Grant.
P. Foggei, C. B. CI. East side of Lake Albert Nyanza, Scott-Elliot.
Blepharis mollnginifolia, Pers. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

IKJTANY :511

ACANTHACE.E — (continued ).

Acanthus arhoreus, Forsk. T.ake Victoria Xyaiiza, Stulilniaiiii ; I'gaiida, Wilson ;
Nandi, 8cott-EIliot.

A. e?nin€7is, C. B. CI. Mau, Scott-Elliot : Xaudi Forest, Jolinston.
Crossaiulra nitotici, Oliv. Madi, Si)eke it Grant ; Lake Rudolf, Donaldson

.Smith. T.L.S. xxix. t. 85, f. 1.
C. vnicromita, Lindau. Lake Victoria Xyanza and east side of Albert Eilward,
Scott-Elliot.

C. subacaidis, C. B. CI. Baringn, .[olniston.
Lejndaffathis ampliata, C. B. CI. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.

L. diversa, C. B. CI. {L. mollis, Oliv.). ^fadi, Sjieke it (Irant.

L. andersotiiana, Lindau. Uganda, Stuhlniaim.

Asystasia Schinij^eri, T. Anders. Uganda, Scott-Elliot , var. Grantii, C. B. CI.

Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
Barleria Grantii, Oliv, Nile about 2' X., Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 127, f. 1.
JB. vixdentata, C. B. CI. Uganda, Wilson ; Ruwenzori, Kavirondo, and Man,

Scott-Elliot.

B. Stuhlmanni, Lindau. [Nlau, Scott-Elliot.

B. micrantha, C. B. CI. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Ellint.

Eranthemum stcbviscosum, C. B. CI. Uganda, Stulihnann.

U. ardisioides, C. B. CI. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

Monothecium (jlandidosum, Hochst. East side of Lake All)ert Edward, Scutt-Elliot.

Justicia flava, Vahl. East side of Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot ; Uganda, Stuhl-

mann ; Kavirondo, Scott Elliot.
J. leikipiensis, S. Moore (./. neglecta, T. Anders.). Uganda, A\'ilsoii : Unyoro,

Speke it Grant.
J. pimjidor, C. B. CI. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot, Doggett.
J. Whj/tei, S. Moore. Lake Xaivasha, Scott-Elliot.
J. melaniivjrum, S. Moore. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
./. heterocarpa, T. Anders. Near Lake Ehnenteita, Scott-Elliot.
J. anselliana, T. Anders. !Madi, Speke it Grant ; X'^andi Plateau, Johnston ;

Kariandusi Biver, near Lake Ehnenteita, Scott-Elliot ; Kamasia, west of Lake

Baringo, Gregory.
J. matammensis, Oliv. Buddu (Buganga), Scott-Elliot.
J. tmcinidata, Oliv. Uganda, Stuhlmann ; var. tenuicapsa, C. B. CI Kariandusi

Eiver, ^lau, and near Lake Naivasha, Scott-Elliot.
Monechma kispidum, Hochst. (Schivabea ciliaris, Nees). Madi, Si)eke it Grant.
J/, bracteatuni; Hochst. {Justicia dehilis, Vahl). Near Lake Baringo, Gregory.
M. scahrinerve, C. B. CI. Near Lake Elmenteita, Scott-Elliot.
Isoglossa lactea, Lindau. Toro, Kivata, Scott-Elliot.
/. runssorica, Lindau. Toro, Scott-Elliot.
/. substrohilina, C. B. CI. Mau, Scott-Elliot.
/. rubescens, Lindau. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Hyjioestes triflora, Eoeni. it Sch. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot, Doggett ; Nandi

Plateau, Johnston.
H. verticillaris, R. Br. Toro, Scott-Elliot ; Baringo, Johnston.
Dicliptera laxata, C. B. CI. Kavirondo, Samia, Scott-Elliot.

D. nilotica, C. B. CI. ^Ladi, Speke it Grant.

Selaginacese.

Hebenstreitia dentntn, L. Nandi l^lateau, .Tohnston, Scott-Elliot.

342 BOTANY

Verbenaceae.

L<utt<tn,i s((!v/foli<i, Jacq. [Uganda, Wilson ; var. tenu/olia, Baker. Toro^

Doggett.
Lip^iia adoensis, Hoclist. Uganda, Wilson.
Verbena officimilis, Linn. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Premna sj). Euwenzori, Doggett.

Clerodendron Johnstoni, Oliv. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
C. cordifolium, A. Eich. Unyoro and Madi, Speke i^ir Grant.
C. rotundifolium, Oliv. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot. T.L.S. xxix. t. 89.
C. myricoUles, E. Br. Toro, Doggett ; Uganda, Scott-Elliot ; Nandi Plateau,.

Johnston ; var. discolor, Baker. Uganda, Wilson.
Vitex simplicifolia, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 1.30, f. L
V. madiensis, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 131, f. 1.
V. Cienskowsl-ii, Kotschy k Peyr. Madi, Speke it Grant.
V. Fischeri, Giirke. LTganda, Scott-Elliot.

Labiatse.

Ocimuni canum, Sims. L^nyoro, S]jeke it Grant.

0. capitatunt, Baker. iSTandi Plateau, Johnston.

Genios2}07'um pcdudosum, Baker, l^ganda, Wilson.

G. affine, Giirke. Uganda, Stuhlmann.

Moschosma riparium. Hochst. Euwenzori and Lake Xakuro, Scott-Elliot.

Acrocephalus ci/lindraceus, Oliv. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; Unyoro, Speke it Grant

T.L.S. xxix. t. 132, f. 1.
A. aieruleus, Oliv. Bukedi, Speke it Grant ; Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot T L S xxix

t. 133, f. 1.
A. lilacinus, Oliv. Uganda, Wilson. T.L.S. xxix. t. 134.
Hoslundia opposita, var. decumhens, Baker. I'ganda, Wilson.
Pycnostachys stenostachys, Baker. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
P. dejlexifolia, Baker. Near Lake Elmenteita, Scott-Elliot.
P. retictdata, Benth. I^nyoro : Bukedi, Speke it Grant.
P. decusmta, Baker. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.
P. nepetcefolia, Baker. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.
P. Volkensii, Giirke. Euwenzori, Stuhlmann.
P. rmoenzoriensis, Baker. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
P. ohlongifolia. Baker. Toro, Scott-Elliot.
P. urticifolia, Hook. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

jEolanthus ambustus, Oliv. ^[adi, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 136, f. B.
^E. heliotrojHoides, Oliv. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant; Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot

T.L.S. xxix. t. 82, f. 1.
Plectranthiis stachyoides, Oliv. Madi, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 81, f. 1.
P. ovatifoUus, Oliv. Madi, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 135, f. 1.
Plectranthus sp. Baringo, Johnston.
Coleus rmvenzoriensi.% Baker. Euwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
C. lamiginosus, Hochst. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.
C. barbahis, Benth. Uganda, Wilson.
C. latifoUus, var. utadiensis, Baker (C. latifoUiis, Oliv.). Madi, Speke ct

Grant.
Hy2)tis brevipes, Poit. I^ganda, Scott-Elliot ; Madi, Speke ct Grant.
H. spicigera, Lam. Gani, Speke ct Grant.
H. pectinata, Poit. Madi, Speke ct Grant.

BOTANY :3i3

Labiat.+: — (a>nthiiif<l).

Micromerla h/[ffora, Bentli. Kuwenzori, 8cott-Elliot ; south of Lake Xaivasha,

Thomson.
Micromeria sp. Naiidi Plateau, Johnston.
Leucas martinicensis, R. Br. Toro, 8cott-Elliot.
L. f/labrata, E. Br. Kamasia, Gregory.

L. calostachys, Oliv. Gani, Speke it Grant. T.LS. x.xi.x. t. S3.
Leticas sp. Xandi Forest, .Johnston.
Leonotis nepetcefolia, E. Br. Uganda, Wilson.
L. veliitina, var. ruffosa. Baker. Near Lake N^aivasha. Scott-Elliot.
Z. EUiotii, Baker. Man Forest, Scott-Elliot.
Tinnea itthiopicn, Kotschy iV: Peyr. Unyoro and Madi, Sjieke iV: (irant: Xandi,

Scott-Elliot.

Flantaginaceae.

Plantar/o paliiintn, Hook. f. ^laii, Scott-Elliot.

Nyctaginaceae.

hot rhnavl'i JiJ'usa, Linn. Baringo, Johnston; var., L'nyoro, Speke ct Grant.

lUecebracese.

PoUirliia cainpestrU, Sol. Xaivasha, Johnston.

Amaranthaceae.

Deeringia ce/osioides, E. Br. Baringo, Johnston.

Celosia arr/entea, L. Uganda, Speke it Grant, Wilson.

C trigi/na, Linn. Uganda, Wilson ; 2" X., Speke it Grant.

Celosia sp. Congo Forest, Uoggett.

Digera arvensis, Forsk. Baringo, Johnston.

Amaranthus Blitum, Linn. 3' X., Speke it Grant.

Cyathula cylimlrica, Moci. Above Elmenteita, Scott-Elliot.

C. prostata, Bl. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

Cyathula sp. Xaivasha, Johnston.

PupaJia lappacea, ^Moq. Baringo, Johnston.

Psilotrkhv.m sp. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot.

^Erua lannta, Juss. Uganda. Speke it Grant.

Achijranthes argentea, Lam. ? Uganda, Wilson.

Chenopodiaceae.

Cheiiopodium aUnim, Linn. I'ganda, Wilson ; Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

C. Botrys, Linn, Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

C. opuUfoliiun, Schrad. Lubwa's, Scott-Elliot.

Chfiii'ipoilium sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Phytolaccaceae.

Phytolacca ahyssinica, Hofim. Uganda, Wilson.

Polygonaceae.

Pulyguniijii barbatum, Linn. I'ganda, Wilson.

P. senegale/ise, Mocj. Xaivasha, Johnston.

P. tomentosum, Willd. X'ile at 2° X., Speke it Grant.

Rumex abyssinicus, Jacq. Unyoro, 2' X., Speke it '.Grant.

344 BOTANY

Froteacese.

rrotea imtdiensis, Oliv. Madi, 8peke k Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 92, f. ].

Th3anelaBaceae.

Arthrosolen latifolius, Oliv. West Toro, Uoggett.

Arthrosolen sp. Uganda, Wilson.

Gnidia involucrata, var. apiculata, Oliv. Madi, 8iJeke & Grant.

Loranthacese.

Ldf'iiifhus Fischeri, Engl. Mau Plateau, Johnston.

Euphorbiaceae.

Euphorbia Antiquorum, Linn. " Common over the whole route," Speke & Grant.

E. hochstetteriana, Pax. Mau, Soott-EUiot.

U. hppericifolia, Linn. Unyoro, Speke & Grant.

U. Stuhlmanm, Pax 1 Ruvi^enzori, Scott-Elliot.

£. Tirucalli, Linn. ? T S. to 3° 30' N., Speke ct Grant.

Eu2)horhia sp. Nandi Forest, Johnston.

Synadenium Grantii, Hook. f. 3" 15' N., Speke iV: Grant.

Synadenium sp. West Ankole, Doggett.

Bridelia micrantha, Bail!. Madi, Speke k Grant.

B. scleroneura, Muell. Arg. Madi, Speke & Grant.

Phyllanthus pseudoniruri, Muell. Arg. 2° N., Speke it Grant.

Phyllanthus sp. 3° 15' N., Speke & Grant.

Phyllanthus spp. Uganda, Wilson.

Hymenocardia acida, Tulasne. Madi, Speke & Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 94, f. 1.

Jatro2}ha sp. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Croton niloticus, Muell. Arg. Madi, Speke et Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 95, f. 1.

Acalypha vahliana, Muell. Arg. Unyoro, Speke tt Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 96, f. 1.

A. villicaulis, Hochst. Uganda, Wilson.

Acalyjiha sp. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Ricinus communis, L. Unyoro, Speke & Grant.

Urticacese.

Celtis integrifolia, Lam. Madi, Speke ct Grant.
Ficus glumosus, Del. ? Madi, Speke k Grant.

F. kotschyamis, Miq. 1 Madi, Speke k Grant.

F. Sycamorus, Linn. ''Along the whole route," Speke k Grant.

Ficus sp. 3° 15' N., Speke and Grant.

Ficus, sp. Madi, Speke k Grant.

Urtica dioica, Linn., var. Unyoro, Speke k Grant.

Fleurya cestuans, Gaud. Congo Forest, Doggett.

Cerat ophyllacse .

Cenifo/Jiylluin sp. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

Couiferae.

Jtmiperus 2)rocerus, Hochst 1 Top of the Kedong Escari)ment and forests north

of Lake Naivasha, Sclater.
Podocarpus falcatus, R. Br. Nandi and Eldama Ravine, Johnston.
Podocarpus sp. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Podocarpus sp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

]^OTAXY 315

Cycadaceae.

Km; jihalnrfo^ sp. Toro, Doggett.

Hydrocharidaceae.

JfjI'lriHn vfrtiril/nfn, Koyle. Buddu, ex Engler.
Boottia ahyssinicii. Ilidl. ^fadi, Speke tt Grant.

Orcliideae.

Lip'irU ruwenzoriensis, Rolfe. Uuwenzori : Butagu, Scott-Elliot.

Eulophia milanjidua, Rendle. "West Aiikole, Doggett.

Eidophia sp. West Aiikole, Doggett.

Eulophia sp. Xandi, Johnston.

Eissochihis jid^'vulus, Rendle. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.

L. fp-acilior, var. anrjusta, Rendle. East of Lake Albert Edward. Scott-Elliot.

L. validus, var. minor, Rendle. Uganda : Kampala, Scott-Elliot.

L. livinr/stonianiis, R'jichb. f. Uganda, Wilson.

L. cornigenis, Rendle. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot ; var. minor,

Rendle. Buddu, Scott-Elliot.
L. niediocris, Rendle. Kavirondo : Saniia, Scott-Elliot.
L. areiuirius, Lindl. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot • Unvoro

Wilson. ' ^ '

L. Elliotii, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Ruinii River, Scott-Elliot.
L. rutvenzoriensis, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
L. monticohis, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
L. saccatm, Rendle. Xandi Hills, Scott-Elliot.
Pteroglossaspis ri(i''enzoriensii<, Rolfe. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Polystachya rpncilenta, Kranzl. Ruwenzori, Stublmann.
P. nigrescens, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Ruimi and Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
P. simjilex, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Ruimi, Scott-Elliot.
P. sjiafella, Kriiiizi. Ruwenzori, Stublmann.
P. Elliotii, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
P. ruivenzoi'iensis, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Butagu, Scott-Ellic>t.
Polystachya sp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
Angroicum Grantii, Bateni. Madi, Speke it Grant.
A. Scottellii, Rendle. Ruwenzori and Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
Angrcecum sp. Ankole, Doggett.
Listrostachys Virgida, Rolfe. Ruwenzori, Stuhlmann.
JSpipactis africana, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
Dercemeria acuminata, Rendle ct Schlechter. Xandi Hills, Scott-Elliot.
Brachycm-ythis puhescens, Harv. Xorth-east of Kariandusi, Gregory.
JIahenaria Rendlti, Rolfe. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
H. tenuis2nca, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
H. 2>rcestans, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
H. rtcivenzoriensis, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Ruimi, Scott-Elliot.
M. ingrata, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
M. cidicifera, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
JI. genuflexa, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Ruimi, Scott-Elliot.

Cynorchis aiuicamptoides, Kranzl. Ruwenzori, Stublmann : Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
^Satyrium saccidatum, Rolfe. Ruwenzori : Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
J^. mystaciuuin, Kranzl. Ruwenzori, Stublmann.
-S'. niloticum, Rendle. Xandi Range, Scott-Elliot.

346 EOTANY

OBCniHEJE—fcontinunl).

Satyrium crassicaule, Rendle. Euwunzori : Ituimi and Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
Disa eruhescens, Rendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
D. Stairsii, Kranzl. Ruwenzori, Doggett ; Butagu, Stairs, Scott-Elliot.
Disperis nemorosa, Rendle. Ruwenzori : Ruimi, Scott-Elliot.

Scitamineae.

Costus afer, Ker. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

Amomum angustifolmm, Sonn. Semliki Valley and western foot of Ruwenzori^

Scott-Elliot.
Donax tigmiJensis, Schuni. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.
Mum Ensete, Gmel. Uganda, Scott-Elliot ; Madi, Speke ct Grant.

Hsemodoracese.

SamevLtria 'jitiueensis, Willd. Madi, Speke li: Grant ; Baringo, Johnston.
aS'. sulcata, Boj. Xaivasha, Johnston.

Iridacese.

Aristea lumdieusis, Baker. Xandi Range, Scott-Elliot.

Gladiolus guar tinianus, A. Rich. Ruwenzori, Doggett ; Uganda, AVilson.

Amaryllidaceae.

Uypuj'is villosa, Linn. f. East side of I^ake Albert Edward, and Ruwenzori..

Scott-Elliot.
Hceiuanthus multiflorus, Martyn. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Crimmi yuccftflorum, Salisb. Madi, Speke &. Grant.
Pancratiuiii trianthum, Herb. Baringo, Johnston.

Dioscoreacese.

Dioxrorea sativa, L. Unyoro, Speke A: Grant.

Iiiliaceee.

Smilax kratissiana, Meisn. Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 106, f. 1.

Asparagus Paxdi-Gulielmi, Sohns. Uganda, Wilson ; ^ladi, Speke k Grant.

T.L.S. xxix. t. 105, f. 1.
A. asiaticus, Linn. East side of Lake Albert Edward, and Andorobo near Lake

Nakuro, Scott-Elliot.
A. africanus, Lam. Ruwenzori and Uganda, Scott-Elliot, Doggett.
A. racemostis, Willd. Madi, Speke it Grant.

A. falcatus, Linn. Berkeley Bay, Lake Victoria Nyanza, Scott-Elliot.
Draccena fraf/rans, Gawl. Ruwenzori and L^ganda, Scott-Elliot.
D. reflexa, var. nitens, Baker. Ruwenzori : Yeria Valley and Butagu Valley,.

Scott-Elliot.
D. elliptica, Thunb. t(: Dalm. Toro : Ruinii Valley, Scott-Elliot ; Unyoro, Speke it

Grant.
Aloe abyssinica, Lam. Unyoro, Speke il: Grant.
Aloe sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Bidhine asphodelioides, R. & S. Baringo, Johnston.
Anthericuiii triflorum, Ait. Uganda, Lugard.
Chlorophytum hlep}harophyllum, Schweinf. Ruwenzori, Doggett.
Urginea micrantha, Solms. Madi, Speke ct Grant.
U. nupitana, Baker. Uganda : Kampala, Scott-Elliot.

BOTANY lur

LlLIACE.E — (contimicd).

Ornithogaluiii Mella-i, IJakfr. Xaiuli, .Iiiliii>tiiii.

Scilla indica, Baker. Naiidi, Johnston.

*S'. mcesta. Baker. Naiidi, Jolin.ston.

Scilla sp. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Androcj/^iihium melauthoide.';, var. Kfrintmit, Baker. Between Lake Victoria \yaiiza

and Lake Baringo, Fischer.
Gloriosa virescem, Lindl. Bnwenznri, Doggett ; Toro : Ihiinii ^'alley, Scott-Elliot :

Uganda, Wilson.

Pontederiacese .

Ifi'tcrantlKra kofscht/'tna, Fenzl. Madi, Speke i^' Grant.

A\'chonu'i( ludans, Solms {Pontedcrin natans, P. Beauv. i. .Maili, Speke it Grant.

Conimelinaceae.

J'olli'i rond'iisatu, C. B. CI. Uganda, Scott-Elliot.

Palisota Schu'einfurthii, C. B. CI. Uganda : Kalungi, Scott-Elliot.

Commelina nudiflora, Linn. White Nile, Petherick.

C. Sahatieri, C. B. CI. Sources of the White Nile, Sabatier.

C. henghalensis, Tinn. Uganda : near Kampala, Scott-Elliot.

C. madac/ascarica, C. B. CI. Rmvenzori : Kasagania, Scott-Elliot.

C. capitata, Benth. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot.

C.rirma, Eendle {Cyanotis hirsuta, Baker). Bukedi Forest, Siieke lV: Grant.

Commelina sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Aneilema heniniense, Kunth. Ruwenzori : Butagu Valley, Scott-Elliot.

A. (eqinnoctiale, Kunth. Baringo, Johnston.

A. Siaithii, C. B. CI. Lake Rudolf, Donaldson Smith.

A. j}eduncidosum, C. B. CI. Uganda, Scott-Elliot, Wilson; Toro: Ituimi River,

Scott-Elliot.
Ci/anotis longifolia, Benth. L^nyoro, ex K. Schumann.
C. ccesjntosa, Kotschy & Peyr. Nandi Hills, Scott-Elliot.
C. sotnaliensis, C. B. CI. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
Floscopa rimdaris, C. B. CI. {Laiiiprodithyros nvidaris, Hassk.). Ukidi. Speke tl'

Grant.

Juucaceze.

Juncus Fontanesii, J. Gay. Karia Xdusi, near Lake Eimenteita, Scott-Elliot.

Palmse.

Phcenix recUnata, Jacq. Uganda : Kampala, Scott-Elliot, Stuhlmann.

Raphia Monhuttorum, Drude. Lakes Albert Edward and Albert Nyanza, ex

Engler.
Horassm flabellifer, var. (rrthio/»(,n, ^Varb. ''About the e(|uator," Speke it

Grant.
Hyjihcene thehaica, Mart. Uganda, rare, Speke it Grant.

Araceae.

Arisi^ei/ia ruweuzoricuiii, N. E. Br. Toro : Kivata, Scott-Elliot.
Colocasia Antiquorum, Schott. T7ganda and l^nyoro, Speke it Grant.
Cidcasia scamlens, P. Beauv. I'ganda, Scott-Elliot.

M8 BOTANY

Xemnacese.

Lemiia cequinoctialis, Wehv. Uganda : !Maiiyonyo, Stuhlmann.

Alismaceae.

Linmophi/fon obfusifo/ium, ^liq. {Sagittaria ohtuufolia, Linn.)- Gondokoro, Speke
k Grant. T.L.8. xxix. t. 102.

It'aiadacese.

Aponogeton vallisnerioides, Baker. Vkidi, Speke & Grant,

Potamogeton lucens, Linn. In the Xile, 8peke & Grant.

Naias marina, var. muricata, Al. Br. In the Albert Xyanza, Stnhhnann.

Uriocaulonese.

EriocauloH sj). Uganda, Wilson.

dyperaceae.

KilUinga erecta, 8ch. tt Thonn. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

K. sphcerocephala, Boeck. Unyoro, Speke tt Grant.

K. melanosperma, Nees. Madi, Speke k Grant.

K. cylindrica, Nees. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

K. ruwenzoriensis, C. B. CI. Enwenzori : Kivata, Scott-Elliot.

K. albicej^s, Eendle. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.

Pycreus rehmannianus, C. B. CI. West Ankole, Doggett.

P. nigricans, C. B. CI. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.

/•'. Mundtii, Nees. Uganda, Stuhlmann.

P. globosus, var. tiilagirica, C. B. CI. Buddu, Scott-Elliot.

P. capillifolius, C. B. CI. {Cp2)erus flnoescens, T. Thorns.). ^Madi, Speke k

Grant.
P. umbrosics, Nees. (C'j/2>erus nitidus, Boeck.). Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot,
P. tremidus, C. B. CI. Uganda, Stuhlmann.
(Jiiperus compactiis, Lam. liake Albert Nyanza, Stuhlmann ; Lake Victoria Nyanza,

Scott-Elliot ; Nandi, Scott-Elliot.
C. reduncus, Boeck. Unyoro, Speke k Grant.

C. difformis, Linn. Lake Albert Nyanza, Stuhlmann ; Madi, Speke k Grant.
C. flavidus, Eetz. (C Haspan, Rottb.). Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
C. tenax, Boeck. (C Grantii, Boeck.). Uganda, Scott-Elliot.
C. Jischerianus, Schimp. Ruwenzori: Butagu, Scott-Elliot.
€. cuspidatus, Humb. it Kth. Madi, S])eke k Grant.
C derreilema, Steud. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
C. aristatus, Rottb. Kamasia, Gregory.
C. distans, L. f. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot.
C. latifolius, Poir. Nandi Range, Scott-Elliot.
C. callistus, Ridley. Uganda, Wilson.
■C. escnlentus, L. Ruwenzori : Kivata, Scott-Elliot.
C. articulatus, L. East side of Lake Albert Edward, Scott-Elliot ; Baringo,

Johnston.
C schweinfurthiamis, Boeck. Semliki Valley, Scott-Elliot.
C rotundus, L. Kamasia, Gregory ; var. spadiceus, Boeck. Kamdsia, Gregory.
C. rigidifolius, Stend. jSIarshes by Lake Nakuro, Scott-Elliot.
C. ibeensis, K. Schum. Uganda, Wilson.

BOTANY :5 111

Cypeeace.-e — (covti lived).

diperus (\ailtatm, var. dives, C B. CI. Semliki Valley, Scott-Elliot : I'liddu^

•Stuhlmann ; J^ake Baringo, Gregory, Johnston.
C. papi/rus, L. Shallow borders of Lake Victoria Nyanza and banks of the Nile

at 4° 56' N., Speke it Grant ; var. Antiquorum, C. B. CI. Naivasha, Johnston.
Mariscus coloratics, Nees. KaniAsia, Gregory ; var. macrocephala, C. B. Ch

Uganda, Stuhlmann.
M. vestitus, C. B. CI. Man, Scott-illliot.
M. sieberi(i/ii(.%^eefi. Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot; var. erohttior, C. B. CI. Uganda,.

Stuhlmann.
M. macer, Kunth (J/, uniliel/afux, Ollv., ])artly). Unyoro, S]icke it Grant.
J/, riiacrocarpus, Kunth (J/. u/nMlntas, Oliv., ])artly). T^ganda, Si)eke it Grant.
J/, procerus, A. Rich. Lake Elmenteita, Scott-Elliot.
J/, foliosiis, C. B. CI. Ruwenzori : Kivata, Scott-Elliot.
Courtoisia cyperoides, Nees. Malewa River, near Lake Naivasha, Gregory.
Eleocharis margimdata, Steud. Mau, Scott-Elliot.
FimhristyUs diphylla, Vahl. Ruwenzori : Kasagama, Scott-Elliot.
F. exilis, Roeni. it Sch. Ruwenzori and Uganda, Scott-Elliot.
F. monostachya, Hassk. {Ahildgaardia monosfdchya, Vahl. T. I^.S. xxix. 1. 109, f. A).

Ruwenzori, Scott-Elliot ; Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
BidhosUjlis trichohasis, var. uniseriata, C. B. CI. West Ankole, Doggett, Scott-

Ell'iot.
B. atrosanr/uinea, C. B. CI. Nandi, Scott-Elliot.
Scii-pus setaceus, Linn. Ruwenzori : Butagu River, Scott- Elliot.
;S'. cuhensis, Poepp. it Kth. (Isolejns echinocephala, Oliv. T.L.S. xxix. t. 107).

Unyoro : banks of the Nile, Speke ct Grant.
Ftdrena stricta, Steud. Kavirondo, Scott-Elliot.
F. leptostachya, Oliv. Madi, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 108, f. B.
F. umhellata, Rottb. Madi, Speke ct Grant.
Lipoearpa argentea, R. Br. Madi, Speke ct Grant.
Carpha Emini, C. B. CI. Ruwenzori, Stuhlmann.
Scleria foliosa, var. major, Oliv. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.
S. racemosa, Poir., var. Madi, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. Ill, f. 1,
S. glomerxilata, Oliv. Madi, Speke ct Grant, T.L.S. xxix. t 110, f. B.
Diplacriim pygmcewn, Nees. Madi, Speke it Grant.
Carex runssoriensis, K. Schum. RuAvenzori, Doggett.

Gramineae.

Lniperata arundinacea, Cyr. Semliki A'alley and Toro, Doggett.
Saccharum sp]). Ex Grant.
Pogonatherimt sp. ? Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
Manisuris gramdaris, Sw. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant.
Vossia procera, Wall, ct GrifF. Unyoro, Si)eke it (Jrant.
Andropogon cymharms, Linn., var. Gani, Siieke it Grant.
A.jinitiiiiiis, Hochst. Erom the eipiator to 2° N., Speke it (Jrant.
A. hirtus, Linn. By the Nile about 5° N., Speke it Grant.
Anthistiria sp. ? 3° 10' N., Speke ct Grant.
Perotis latifoUa, Ait. Uganda, Speke ct Grant.

Panicum brizanthum, var. httifolhim, Oliv. Unyoro, Speke ct Grant. T.L.S.
xxix. t. 112, f. A.

350 BOTANY

OeAMINE.E — (coufiu lied).

Panicum chrt/mnthiim, Steud. Unyoro, 8peke A: Grant.

F. Crus-Gnlli, Linn. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

P. sangiiinale, Linn. L^ganda, Speke it Grant.

P. verticillatum, Linn. Unyoro, Speke k Grant.

Panicum {Echinochloa) sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Pennisetum Benthaini, Steud. Madi, Speke it Grant.

Pennisetum sp. Baringo, Johnston.

Olyra latifoUa, Linn. Toro, Doggett.

Sporoholus elongatus, E. Br. Uganda, Speke it Grant.

Cynodon Dacti/lon, Pers. 5° S. to 2" X., Sjieke it Grant.

Chloris compressa, DC. L'ganda, Speke it Grant.

C. gayaiia, Kunth. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.

Eleusine coracana, QiMvtw. " Cultivated everywhere,"' Speke it Grant.

Phragmites communis, Trin. Unyoro, and from 4' 55' X. northwards, Speke it

Grant.
Eragrostis megastachya, Koel. Unyoro, Speke it Grant.
E. patens, 0\\\\ Unyoro, Speke it Grant. T.L.S. xxix. t. 113, f. 1.
Eragrostis sp. Xandi, Johnston.
Poa sp. Kuwenzori. Doggett.

CRYPTOGAMS.

Tilices.

Gleichenia dichotoma, Hook. L^ganda, Wilson.

Cyathea Dregei, Kunze. Uganda, Wilson.

Davallia elegans, Sw. Kuwenzori, Doggett ; L^ganda, Wilson.

Lonchitis puhescens, Willd. Uganda, Wilson.

Ckeilanihes farinosa, Kaulf. Euwenzori, Doggett.

C. midtijida, Sw. Xaivasha. Johnston.

Pellcea geranicefoUa, Fee. L^ganda, ^Vilson.

P. hastata, Link. Uganda, Wilson.

Pteris flahellata, Thunb. Euwenzori, Doggett.

P. incisa, Thunb. Uganda, Wilson.

P. quadriaurita, Eetz. Uganda, Wilson.

Ceratojyteris thalictroides, Brongn. 3° 15' X., Speke it Grant.

Asplenium amcemun, C. H. Wright. Euwenzori, Doggett.

A.furcatton, Thunb. Euwenzori, Doggett ; Uganda, Wilson (and 2 vars.); 3" 15' X.

Speke it Grant.
A. longicauda. Hook, l^ganda, \Mlson.
A. nigripes, Bl. Uganda, Wilson.
A. rutcefolitcm, Mett. Euwenzori, Doggett.
Xephrodium Filix-Mas, Eich., var. Uganda, Wilson.
X. unitum, var. pj-ojiinquitm, Baker. 2" to 3' X., Speke it Grant.
jY. Wilsani, Baker. L'ganda, Wilson.
Nephrolejds cordifolia, Presl. 3° 15' X., Speke it Grant.
Oleandra articulata, Cav. Uganda, Wilson.
Polypodiiun lycojmdioides, Linn. Uganda, Wilson.
P. Phymatodes, L. Uganda, Wilson.
P. rigescens, Bory. Euwenzori, Doggett.

BOTANY

351

FiLlCES — (contiii ui'd).

AcrostichuDi pimctulatKm, S\v. l^ganda, Wilson.
Osniunda regal/s, L. Nakuro, Johnston.
Lijgodium scandens, Sw. I'ganda, Wilson.

Lycopodiaceae.

Ljia>i>odiiuii ducrifdioides, Baker. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Selaginellacese.

Stlaijinrlln lupestris, Spring. Madi, 8peke it Grant.

Musci.

Breutelia Stiddmanni, Brotli. Piuwenzori, Scott-Elliot, Stulihnann, Doggett.

Polytrichum sp. Euwenzori, Doggett.

Ehacocarjms Humholdtii, Lindb. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Erpodiiim H<tnmnrjtoni, ^fitt. " Lake Xyanza," Hannington.

Hepaticse.

Flwjiovlula sj). Ruwenzori, Doggett.

Ilerherta juniper ina, Spruce. Ruwenzori, Doggett.

219. I'APYHLS IN BLOSSOM

T

CHAPTER XII

ZOOLOGY
Mammals

HE8E countries round about the lakes whose waters unite to form the
-L- greatest river in Africa, must have been in tlie past, firstly for beasts,
and secondly for men, the critical point in Africa, the meeting place of
north and south, of east and west, the focus from which modern mammalia
and African man radiated all over Southern Africa, after a concentration
within the north-eastern portion of the continent. Here for a time, no
doubt, paused the European and Asiatic fauna of big beasts which glacial
epochs or the attacks of man when he had emerged from the ape drove from
India, Western Asia, and Mediterranean Europje into tropical Africa, at
that time peopled by the humbler fauna represented at the present day in
Madagascar. Creatures like the okapi, whose nearest relations are found
fossil in Egypt, Greece, and Western Asia, possibly got no farther than the
Semliki forests which lie along the south-western border of the Uganda
Protectorate. The other big beasts of the north and east made their way
from the countries round about the sources of the Nile into the savannahs
and forests of West Africa, and into the park-lands and grassy steppes of
the southern half of the continent. When palteontological researches have
shown us what the mammalian fauna of Uganda was in the Pliocene and
Pleistocene Epochs, we shall probably find that this fauna made a long stay
and developed many of its strange existing forms in and near these territories
grouped round about the great lakes and that changeable river, the Nile —
a river which in all probability once formed a huge lake in the Egyptian
Sudan, and at one time may have flowed into the Eed Sea, at another may
have communicated with Lake Chad.

One reason, no doubt, why the Uganda territories became so much of
a focus and centre from which beasts and men expanded their range over
Western and Southern Africa, and a centre from which languages and
civilisation overflowed and trickled, or rushed, in these directions, was no
doubt the existence of that great Congo Forest which even at the present
day stretches very nearly without interruption from the coast-lands of the

ZOOLOGY 353

Cameroons to the Seinliki Kiver or Albeitine \il(\ .Alan and beasts have
partially broken througli this forest barrier, though numy have been com-
pletely kept back by it ; but as most movements seek the line of least
resistance, so this lielt of forest stretcliing across two-thirds of the southern
prolongation of the Dark Continent (coupled possibly with a once existing
Eastern African forest, or with regions of al)solute sterility near to the
Indian (Jcean) must have concentrated from time to time within what is
now the Uganda Protectorate the movements of living beings whom
pressure from the nortli-east was thrusting farther and faither into
Africa. Tlie Uganda Protectorate is remarkable as containing illustrative
types representing nearly all tlie zoographical divisions into which Africa is
divided. Here we find forms peculiarly characteristic of the West African
region, of South Africa, of East Africa, Somalihmd. Central Africa, and the
Nile Valley. In the forests of its Western Province there are chimpanzees ;
the gorilla itself is found within a few days' march of Uganda's western
frontier. In the Eastern Province of Uganda there is that clumsy jerboa so
peculiarly characteristic of the South African karroo, the Cape jumping hare,
as it is incorrectly styled (Pedetes catfer). There are the aard wolf and a
baboon which, if not the South African chakma, is almost indistinguishable
from it. In the north, and })erha})s west, of the Uganda Protectorate,
the miscalled white or square-lipped rhinoceros, formerly thought to be
confined in its distribution to the districts south of the Zambezi, has been
shown to exist by INIajor Gibbons, and both Speke and Stanley claimed
to have shot it in Western Uganda. The buffaloes of Uganda are, in the
extreme west, the red, short-horned Congo form ; in the centre, the
Abyssinian type, with horns approximating slightly to the Indian buffalo ;
and, in the south-west, south, and north-east, the buffalo of South Africa.
In its eastern, central, northern, and south-western districts Uganda is
extremely rich in those vast herds of game which once characterised South
Africa. Xearly every known type of African antelope is represented here.
Here, too, are the two principal types of zebra — Grevy's zelira, with its
narrow black stripes, large ears, and great size, and Grant's variety of
Burchell's zebra, with broad black bands, small white ears, and a IuiIk not
much greater than that of tlie true zebra of South Africa.* The wild ass
of Nubia penetrates into the north-eastern part of the Protectorate. The
giraffes are mainly of the three-horned and five-horned northern species, but
it is possible that the Somaliland giraffe (G. reticulaUi) penetrates into the
Pudolf region. Lastly, in its Western Province, the Uganda Protectorate

* The existing striped horses should, 1 think, be divided into three groujis : {a)
Grevy's zebra (quite distinct from the others) ; {/>) the now extinct quagga ; (c) all
the other zebras — i.e., the four or five varieties of IjuiTliell's. and the true or mountain
zebra, which slightly approaches Grevi/i.

VOL. I. 23

354

ZOOLOGY

shares with the Congo Free State the lionour of being the hist refuge of that
newly discovered girafi'e-like animal, the okapi.

It would become wearisome if I continued generalising in this manner.
Enough has been said to show that this portion of Africa is singularly

220. THE ZEBKA

hl.GOX DIsTlllfT : UltAXX'.S ZEBKA {EQCCS BL'RCUELI-I GR.-l.XTJf)

interesting and rich in its mammalian fauna. I will now pass to the special
description of a few more remarkable, interesting, or beautiful tj'pes.

The existence of the chimpanzee within the limits of the I'ganda
Protectorate was first reported by Emin Pasha, who is said to have sent
home a skull from Unyoro. Subsequent travellers, however, denied that
this great ape was found there, and it was not very certain that Emin
Pasha had not obtained this skull from the forests to the west of the
Albert Nyanza instead of to the east of tliat lake. Soon after my arrival
in Uganda proper I began to make inquiries from the natives about the
existence of this ape. I found at once that it was well known to them
by tradition, and that they possessed a name for it in their language,
which was " edzike," a word that is obviously allied in origin to the '• nzige "
of Bantu races near the West African coast. According to the traditions
of the Baganda, the chim])anzee in the times of their forefathers was
found in an extensive forest which still exists in the District of Kiagwe,
on the borders of Busoga, and quite in the centre of the Uganda Pro-

ZOOLOGY 3i

)•>

tectorate. It is not improbable also, from wliat the natives told me, that
this ape further existed within the last few hundred years on the western
side of Mount Elgon. All this evidence of its having inhabited countries
nearer and nearer to the eastern side of Africa is interesting, because fossil
remains of the chim^janzee have been found in Western India; and it is
the opinion of some naturalists that the anthropoid apes, together with
their congener, man, were evolved in Asia. Diminishing forest, and, above
all, the evolution, multiplication, and rivalry of mankind, extinguislied the
anthropoid apes in India, and drove the ancestors of the chimpanzee and
gorilla westwards into Africa, across countries which in not verv remote
periods were sufficiently forested to admit of the sojourn of these tree-loving
creatures.

At the present day the chimpanzee is limited in its distribution — so
far as the Uganda Protectorate is concerned— to the Bugoma and other
forests in L'nvoro near the east coast of the Albert Xyanza, and to similar
stretches of forest in Eastern Toro, Northern Ankole. and perhaps also the
western slopes of Kuwen/ori and tlie 8emliki Valley. When the author
of this book visited the District of Toro and Mount Euwenzori, he made
many inquiries from tlie natives about the chimpanzee. Thev knew of
this ape's existence in certain forests, but declared they very seldom met
it, as it was exceptionally shy. When cut ofi" from retreat, however, it
-could display great strength and savagery, and the natives spoke of it
with a certain amount of awe. They told the same stories about the
chimpanzee's habits as have been reported by Emin Pasha and others,
such as its building "houses" (shelters) in the trees (though they relate
that the adult male chimpanzee often sleeps at the base of a tree with
his back against the trunk in the attitude given in the accompanying
picture).* [Male chimpanzees were said, as in West Africa, to be ready
to attack undefended women with the apparent intention of violating
them. In acts like these, however, I believe anthropoid apes, like their
near allies, the baboons, to be actuated by a sort of humorous spitefulness
wluch delights in frightening and annoying persons of whom they are
not afraid. In these attacks the males are often given to great indecency
of gesture without any defined intention of attacks on the chastity of
the women they are annoying. I should, however, certainly pity any
unfortunate woman carried ofi' for connubial purposes by a male ape or
baboon, since she would almost certainly be torn in pieces by the jealous
females, who, when adult, display the deepest jealousy of human beings of
their own sex. The natives of Toro repeat the assertions of Emin Pasha
to the efl'ect that the chimpanzees are rather fond of beating with their

* This jiicture is a photograph taken from an ailult male oliimpanzee obtained
in Toro. Its skin is now in the British Museum.

221. A MALE CHIMPANZEE

ZOOLOGY .357

hands hollow tree-trunks which they find in the forest, and of shouting
in acconopaninient to this primitive music. The chimpanzees are certainly
very noisy when they believe themselves to be unobserved. I have never
succeeded in seeing any of them in these Uganda forests ; but I have on
one or two occasions heard and recognised their shouting cries, so familiar
to me in the West African forests of the Cameroons and the Niger Delta.

^Seeing what an interest was taken by us in these chimpanzees, the
obliging chiefs in Toro and Unyoro sent us sev^eral dead specimens,
the skins of which we were enabled to send home to the British ^luseum,
besides two living chimpanzees, one of which I kept for some time in
captivity. The first chimpanzee to arrive at Entebbe from Toro gave rise
to rather a tragic incident. It was the first that had come to hand. We
had been obliged to gi\e up our personal researches in Toro for lack of time,
and we left the Western Province of the Protectorate with a strong belief
in the existence of the chimpanzee (owing to the cries that were heard and
the stories of the natives), but with nothing to add scientific proof to this
conviction. But the king of Toro had interested himself much in these
researches, and with the aid of the collector of the district, the late ]Mr.
Baile, he organised a great hunt in one of the chimpanzee-haunted forests.
His men were provided with extensive nets, and they caught a large
chimpanzee in one of these. They transferred the struggling monstej,-
to a kind of crate made of strong, lithe branches. This was slung on poles
and carried on men's shoulders 180 miles to my residence.

Arrived at Entebbe, the problem presenting itself to us was how to
withdraw this powerful and infuriated animal from its cramped confinement,
and how to keep it in captivity. It was decided to fasten a strong metal
collar round its neck, attaching the collar to a heavy iron chain, the
opposite end of which would be most securely tied to the trunk of a
growing tree. A hole was made in the withes which encircled the
struggling chimpanzee, and each hand or foot as it was thrust through
this hole was caught in a noose. At last all the four extremities of the
creature were thus secured and tied together. The withes were then cut
away, and the ape, hoarse with screaming and beside itself with rage,
floundered helpless on the ground. Then the metal collar was (as we
thought) securely fastened round the neck and rivetted to the chain, the
limbs were untied, and the creature was left to enjoy partial liberty. In
about two minutes, with its powerful hands it had wrenched apart the heavy
metal collar, which, with the chain, fell to the ground. The spectators
scattered right and left, and the a[)e scrambled up on to the branches
of a tall tree. The trees in the garden at Entebbe were linked In-
scattered forest to the dense woodland of the Botanical Gardens. Had the
chimpanzee, without pausing, made straight for the forest of the Botanical

358

ZOOLOGY

J-'-'. IIKAIi 111- CIIIMI'AN/.EK FROM TOKO

Gardens (wliich again joined on to a large extent of wild woodland and
jungle), he would in all probability have completely regained his liberty ;
but some half-human instinct prompted him to pause for a while on the
branches above us and scream defiant taunts. The idea of losing this
(at that time unique) specimen was too much for me. ^Ir. Doggett had
in his hand a loaded rifle. I called to him to fire at the gibbering chim-
panzee. He did so, and the poor creature, uttering a dreadful human
scream in the middle of its triumph, threw up its hands and fell heavily
to the ground, where it gasped out its life with such sighs and groans as to
make me feel a murderer.

The other living specimen sent to us was not quite so old or so strong,
and soon became tame. It died, alas ! as it was on its way home to the
Zoological Gardens, having caught a severe attack of pneumonia in passing
from the tropical climate of Uganda to the European bleakness of the
Nandi Plateau. This chimpanzee, when angry, did not attempt to bite
purely and simply ; its great idea was to strike with the open hand, though
there were occasionally gestures like those of the baboon, which might lead
one to believe that the chimpanzee at times drags its opponent to his
mouth with its hands and pushes him away as it bites, thus tearing out
the flesh with great force. These angry gestures were not so often made
towards human beings (with whom it reconciled itself rapidly), but were
used to punish two impudent baboons in my collection, who, whenever they

ZOOLOGY" ;5.V.)

managed to escape from confinement, would make fur tin- cliiinjianzee's
quarters and attempt to rob him of his food.

During my stay in the I'gaiKhi Protectorate the place of theatres,
concerts, exhibitions, and all the pleasant dissipations of our civilised
existence was taken by zoological studies, which, together with painting,
were my only distractions. I was greatly interested in keeping a large
menagerie. Many of the creatures, especially the larger in size, remain
still at my lieadquarters at Entebbe; others, tlie monkeys especially,
travelled about with me, and enlivened the caravan wit h their jiranks. It
amused us, amongst other things,, to name the baboons and monkeys with
distinctive appellations, which they soon came to realise as quickly as a dog
does. The male monkeys were usually given ]Muhammadan names, partly
by the Muhammadan coast porters, and partly in humorous raillery by the
Europeans. On the other hand, the female simians were called b}^ English
names of a more or less incongruous kind, largely taken from the heroines
of the works of iiction circulating in the camp. Amongst our baboons was
Eleanor Maltravers, from the Semliki Valley, on the ('ongo PVee State
boundary. 8he belonged to a species of baboon difficult to clas.sify,* but offer-
ing considerable resemblance to the chakma-like form which [ have observed
in the eastern part of the Protectorate. A male of this chakma-like type had
been captured by us near Xaivasha when a tiny little fellow, and seemed to
be indistinguishable from Eleanor in appearance, though nearly 400 miles
separated their l)irthplaces. The luale was called Nassur, and Nassur and
Eleanor, for aught I know, are living still as amusing bandits at Entebbe.

Baboons possess a quite half-human intelligence, and though sometimes
inconvenient in their audacious mischief, they are most interesting pets to
keej) and study ; and it is only by thus having them to live witli one for
years that one realises how much their average untrained intelligence is
above that of the ordinary beast, and how distinct an approach the baboon
makes towards man. Personally, I believe that the baboon comes very
near being an actual stage in man's ascent, the modern African baboon
having no doubt diverged a little from the ancestral types whence man
ascended; but, with the sole exception of their exaggeration of muzzle, they
undoubtedly approximate in form to that type — the grandparents, so to
speak, of man, the stage immediately preceding the anthropoid ape and
succeeding the mere long-tailed monkey. The ancient Egyptians, if their
sculptures and paintings are to be taken as accurate, not only tamed the
baboon of Xubia, but trained it to be a useful animal in gathering fruits and
performing other services. It is a pity that this art should have been lost.
I know from personal experience that it is extremely easy to tame baboons,
but very difficult to train them to real obedience, and anything like work is

* Papio do(juera (?).

300

ZOOLOGY

abhorrent to their nature. If only we could learn the secret of the ancient
Egyptians in this respect, we might solve the domestic servant problem
eventually, when all mankind becomes too proud to perform menial tasks.

223. ELKANOK AM) HEK MKSE (A FEMALE DOGCIzRA BABOON FROM THE SEMLIKI FOREST)

We might, in preference to automata, recruit our servants, our hewers of
wood and drawers of water, from amongst man's nearest relatives, the
neglected simians, the Bandar Log of Kudyard Kipling's "Jungle Stories."

ZOOLOGY

.'501

The monkeys of Uganda number amongst tliem some remarkable types.
There is the beautiful colobus, whose name in Greek means "mutilated,"
because the colobus monkey has by degeneration practically lost its thumb,
its hands being four-fingered only, and the place of the thuml) marked, if
at all, by a minute wart bearing a tiny nail. The colobus monkeys are a
genus peculiar to Africa. With j)erhai)S three exceptions they are remarkable
for their black and white coloration. The black is very black, and the white

224. TWO liAliV IiAliUL).\> (J'-U:

v./ .') I'lKLM TliK l;lFI \ AI.I.IA

is snowy white. The colobus has a long tail with an immense white plume
at the end. In certain forms found on Mount Kilimanjaro, this white
plume at the end so extends up the tail that the whole of this organ is a
creamy white plume about eighteen inches in length. Both sexes liave
stifif whiskers and beard of white, while the sides of the body have long
manes of white hair. In one rare species of colobus the white disappears
almost altogether, only being represented by a little fringe of grey. In
an entirely new species discovered by us on the north-west slopes of

862 ZOOLOGY

Kuwenzori,* the white hair is reduced to a minimum, the female being
mainly black all over. Lastly, there are two species of colobus which are
not black and white. One was found in the island of Zanzibar, and is now
nearly extinct. It was chiefly chestnut brown, with a little black and w^iite.
We discovered, however, another colobus in the forests of Western Torn,
to the east of Kuwenzori, which has no black or white on it, but is a
combination of bright chestnut red and pinkish grey. This I took to be
an animal new to science, but it appears that an identical red colobus
monkey w'as discovered by Dr. Peters on the Tana River. If the red
colobus of Western Toro (which is the only spot where it is found in the
Uganda Protectorate) and that of the Tana Kiver are the same species, it
is a rather remarkable instance of interrupted distrilnition. The red colobus
of Toro answers to its Greek name in the adults, which have only four fingers
on the hands, and the minutest trace of a thumbnail in the place where the
thumb is missing. But the young colobuses of this species have a complete
thumb, only a little smaller than this finger would be in the Cercopitheci.
As the animal grows to maturity, so its thumb dwindles, until in a very old
male there may be absolutely no trace left of the missing finger.

All the colobuses live in dense forest. The common black and white
species may be found at altitudes of 9,000 feet on Ruwenzori,f and also on
Elgon and the Nandi Plateau ; but the same animal is equally abundant in
the tropical forests of Toro and Uganda. Consequently the same species
inhabits districts where the temperature often descends to freezing point,
and others where the heat is that of a luxuriant tropical forest. The colobus
monkeys live almost entirely on leaves, and, unlike most other monkeys, seem
to dislike animal food. Several native tribes in the Protectorate eat this
monkey, and some, like the Andorobo, make it their favourite article of
diet, declaring its flesh to be sweet and succulent. These monkeys do not,
as a rule, live long or healthily when in ca[)tivity, for a rather curious
reason. The creature is so absolutely used to an arboreal life that when
taken away from the trees and obliged to live on the ground it is per-
petually sitting down on its haunches. When in the trees it is accustomed
to defecate as it sits over a branch or as it jumps from tree to tree.
Consequently, when on the ground, it is unable to void the excreta in a
cleanly manner, and soon a pad of mud and excrement forms over the
nates. This breeds grubs and parasites, and very often the monkey dies
from a painful disease caused in this way, unless, of course, it happens to be
the property of a European who takes care to have it kept in a cleanly state.

A strange-looking monkey comes from the District of Unyoro, and is

* Named Colobus ruivenzorii by Mr. Oldfield Thomas.

t As already related, a species of black colobus new to science was discovered by
us to exist in the dense forest on the north-west flank of Euwenzori.

Cor. OBI s occ/onxTA us.
The common Colobus Monkey of Central Africa.

ZOOLOGY

:5(;:j

found elsewliere in the Egvplian Sudan and in Seneganibia. Tliisjis the
patas monkey, a creature wliich ]i;is taken to living almost entirely on the
ground, and has developed very long legs like a greyhound. Its head is
a hriglit chestnut on the to]), and tlie rest of the hody is a mixture of foxy-

225. THE KKl) COLODLS FKOM TOKO (CO/.OBCS RiTOMITK.rri's)

yellow, buff, and white. In the Uganda forests there are large Cercopithecos
monkeys of blackish green, and, above all, there is a charmingly pretty
creature, the white-nosed monkey, a coloured illustration of which appears
in this book. The fur of this monkey is very brightly coloured with chestnut-
red, greenish yellow, and purple-black. Its white whiskers and white ti}) to

364 ZOOLOGY

its nose, together with the exceedingly long red tail, make it a conspicuous
object. The natives very frequently catch these monkeys (especially when
young), and they then become the most charming pets, being much more
cleanly in their habits than their congeners. Their ways are peculiarly
winning, and suggestive of some graceful spritelike Ariel.

]Mr. Alexander AMiyte, soon after his arrival in Uganda, made an
interesting discovery. He obtained a specimen of the West African potto,
or tailless lemur (Periodicticus jjotto). This had been thought formerly
to be confined to equatorial West Africa in the vicinity of Old Calabar.
It is evident that its range extends right across the continent to Uganda,
like that of the chimpanzee and other West African mammals and birds.
There are two or three species of galago lemurs in the country, whose
weird cries are often believed by the natives to be the voices of devils.
The young of the galago (and no doubt of other lemurs) do not arrive
very rapidly at maturity, taking two or more years to grow to full size.
Very often the young are believed by Europeans to belong to a different
species from the adult on account of this difference in size.

The bats of Uganda offer, so far as I know, no species peculiarly
confined to that Protectorate. The insectivorous bats belong mostly to
kinds widely spread throughout tropical Africa, though there are one or
two species of fruit-eating bats which are elsewhere only found in the
West African sub-region. Among insectivorous mammals may be noted
the large shrews of the genera Rhyncocyon and Macroscelides, the former
being the well-known elephant shrew, with a proboscis nearly an inch long.
Both these shrews stand and leap on their hind-legs only, like kangaroos or
jerboas. Also a golden mole (insectivorous) and a prettily coloured hedgehog.

The cat-like carnivores are represented by the lion, the leopard, two
species of serval, Felis caffra, the caracal lynx (in the north-east), and
the cheetah. Felis caffra is very like the wild-cat of Egypt and Syria,
which was the principal element in the origin of the domestic cat of
Europe and Asia, though I, for one, hold that our domestic cat has a large
infusion of the blood of Felis catus to account for the tabby markings
and certain peculiarities of form not found in Felis manicidata or in
the domestic cat of Egypt and North Africa (which is probably descended
without intermixture from the wild-cat of Egypt). Felis caffra, the
African wild-cat, spread throughout Africa from south of the Sahara to
Cape Colony, bears a strong resemblance in appearance to the domestic
cat. It was never caught and tamed by the natives of Africa until the
domestic cat had been introduced from Egypt and India, or by the
Portuguese on the west coast of Africa. After its introduction was made,
it has often occurred to natives of Uganda to catch the young kittens of
the wild Felis caffra and bring them up as domestic cats. In addition

The Whiik-nosed Ceroh'ITHEci\s Monkey >.k U(;a.m>a.

ZOOLOGY :u;r,

to this, the same wild-cat interbreeds freely witli tlic durnestic animal,
even though the latter may be of European oritrin, and tiie kittens of the
mixed lireed become handsome creatures.

The lion is found fairly abundantly throughout the Uganda Protectorate,
excepting only in the dense forests or in the more settled districts. There
is nothing specially remarkable about the lion in these parts, excejit
l)erhaps that young ardmals of both sexes often, when fully grown, though
not quite mature, retain rather clearly, marked in reddish lirown, the spots
of their cub-hood. On one skin of a young male lion killed by our ex-
pedition the spots are so clearly marked that their shape may be prettv
well defined, and they appear to be strikingly like in arrangement the
rosettes, single spots, and spots-ranning-into-stripes of a leopard skin. In
all probability both the lion and the tiger developed on independent lines
from a leopard-like form, the lion keeping the leopard's Ujarkings unaltered
until they f;ided away into the general dun colour of the body, wliile in
the tiger the rosettes gradually lengthened into stripes. On some tiger
skins the stripes are double throughout their length, and are simply
drawn-out rosettes. In the case of the lion, in all })robability the ground
colour of the skin darkened from the original yellow to its present tawnv
tint, while the spots faded from black to reddish brown. Curiously enough,
an analogous process is going on with the woolly cheetah found in South
Africa. In this case also the spots are fading from black into reddish
brown, while the rest of the fur is changing from pale yellow to dark
fawn colour. I do not know that I can say that the lions of Uganda are
more spotted than any other race, for since making these observations
I have examined other lions now alive in the Zoological Gardens from
other parts of Africa, and these in two instances present types retaining
the spots in quite as marked a manner as is the case with the specimens
I have examined in Uganda. I doubt whether it has been any particular
advantage to the lion to lose his spots ; one might imagine that on
retaining his lionhood he has cared more for the mane, and strength of
jowl and limb, and less for the decoration of his skin. What strikes one
irresistibly in these countries is that leopards, when seen in the open at
a little distance, appear to be without spots, and of as uniform a tawny
tint as a lion.

On nearly all the occasions when I have seen leopards wild in I'ganda.
I have either mistaken them for young lionesses or even for the hornless
females of antelopes ! — and this though my sight is good. Female reed-
buck have a certain way of crouching before plunging away in a loose-limbed
gallop which may very well cause one to mistake a leopard half hidden
in the grass for an innocuous doe. It is generally not until one sees tlie
long leopard tail waving in the air as the creature bounds away in a

366 ZOOLOGY

shambling gallop that one realises the nature of the animal. The leopard
is as abundant and omnipresent in the Uganda Protectorate as everywhere
else in Africa south of the Sahara and away from the settled districts of
Cape Colony. In forest regions the leopard is as much dreaded by the
natives as is the lion on the plains. Many are the stories told to one
by the people of the i^emliki forests or the more forested regions of
Uganda, such as Kiagwe, of the way in which leopards attack women,
children, and even men on the outskirts of villages.

Tlie serval cat is extremely al)undant in this Protectorate up to the
verge of the Congo Forest, though not withiu that forest. The skin of this
animal is much prized by the negroes in the Protectorate as a handsome
addition to their clothing, or as their only garment. In some districts only
voung men of royal blood are allowed to wear the serval skin. The serval
bears a strong resemblance in the open to a diminutive cheetah. This
resemblance is due to the length and slenderness of the limbs ; but the
tail is much shorter than in the great hunting cat. The resemblance, of
course, is only superficial, because the serval is a true cat, and is closely
allied to the lynxes, whereas the cheetah, as my readers know, is in
a different genus from the typical felines.* The serval hunts its game to a
great extent, and is capable of running down much of its prey, such
as young antelopes. One not infrequently sees a male and female serval
hunting together. The kittens of this handsome animal are occasionallv
caught by the natives and semi-domesticated.

In the Kingdom of Uganda and in the Western Province of the
Protectorate is found the servaline cat, which is considered to be a near
ally of the serval. It is distinguished from the last-named by its
markings. These in the serval are large simple black spots, running into
stripes here and there on a pale yellowish or yellowish grey ground. In
the servaline cat, however, though a few bold stripes are retained about
the throat and neck, and perhaps on the limbs, the whole of the rest
of the body is covered with tiny IJack spots, while the ground colour of
the fur has darkened from pale yellow to a greyish brown. It is not
very uncommon to see skins which are intermediate in markings between
the extremely small and numerous spots of the servaline and the Iwld
black patches and stripes of the common serval. Evidently the servaline
cat is a species in process of formation, and its markings are subject to
great variability. The natives state that some serval skins are a uniform
dark blackish brown (Melanosis^ of course). I have not seen any of these
black servals. What is not generally known in England, however, is the
large size to which these servaline cats may grow. Their tails are not
very long— they are thick and bushy ; but the size of the skin sometimes

* Cynoelums.

i?-0

^1

L ;^'o^^;ry/--^ , : 't-i^t^i

ZOOLOGY ;u;7

has appeared to be nearly that of a leopard. Seeing these very large
skins peppered all over with innumerable tiny black spots, yet retaining
bold black markings on the throat and belly, I was irresistii3ly reminded
of an abnormal leopard skin which was exhibited some years ago by
Dr. Giinther at the Zoological Society. This skin was marked precisely
like that of a servaline cat (it came from the northern part of Cape (.'olonyj,
but I think I am right in saying that its tail was long, and obviously that
of a leopard. But for the tail, I should say that this abnormal skin was
nothing but an unusually large specimen of the servaline cat.

The cheetah, or hunting leopard, is fairly common in the Nurtl.-
Eastern, Central, and Nile Provinces of the l^rotectorate. It is even,
1 believe, found in Unyoro and the northern part of the Kingdom of
Uganda.

As regards hyjx^nas, the spotted hyaena is found nearly everywhere in
the Protectorate, but in the interior of Ankole there would almost seem
to be a distinct variety of these S})ecies, in whicli the hair is a good deal
longer than in the ordinary form (this is also the case with the spotted
hyaenas of the Nandi Plateau), and the spots are much blacker, and .some-
times extend in length until they resemble horizontal stripes. A skin
exhibiting these peculiarities was sent by me to the Zoological Society.
In the north-eastern part of the Protectorate it is stated that the striped
hytena makes its ap})earance. This statement has not yet been confirmed
by the obtaining of specimens, and it is possible tluit people have confused
the striped hyasna and the aard wolf (^Froteles). The aard wolf is
undoubtedly found in the eastern part of the Uganda Protectorate, especially
in the Kift Valley. It lives in burrows, and is very seldom seen out in
the daytime.

Besides the civet cat, which is fairly common, there are the usual
African genets, and in addition a large new genet, the size of a civet,
which is found in the Western Province and in the Semliki Forest. This
new genet has been named by Mr. Oldheld Thomas Genetta victorioi.
I give a coloured illustration of it in this volume.

The jackal of Central Africa between the Zambezi and the latitudes
of Abyssinia alwavs seems to me a somewliat indeterminate species,
something like the servaline cat. Some specimens are very like the
jackal of Northern Africa. Others, again, might almost be mistaken for
tlie splendid black-lmcked jackal of Soutli and North-East Africa. I sup-
pose the common form of jackal, abundantly found throughout the I'ganda
Protectorate, and wliich is illustrated by my painting, would be called
the side-striped jackal (Cams lateralis), common throughout West Africa
and Nyasaland. The beautiful black-backed jackal, with bands of silver
fur and bright yellow tail and legs, seems to be confined to the north-

368 ZOOLOGY

eastern part of the Uganda Protectorate. I have seen them myself in
the vicinity of Lake Baringo.

The hunting dog (Lycaon pictiis) is abundantly found throughout the
Protectorate, especially in the north-east and centre and in the Xile
Province. Mr. Doggett and the present writer are both disposed to think
that that curious Abyssinian dog. Canls simensis, extends its range to
the north-eastern part of the Uganda Protectorate, and is found on the
north-eastern flanks of Blount Elgon and in tlie vicinity of Lake Baringo.
But this is only conjecture based on the peculiar bark of this animal, and
the sight of what was supposed to be its form in the moonlight. I remember
when sojourning on Kilimanjaro many years ago I was strongly of opinion
that Cams simensis was found on the flanks of that mountain.

The otter, probably Lutra maculicollis, is found in almost all the
lakes and most of the rivers of L^ganda. It is a very prominent beast in
the stories of the Bagauda, who greatly value its fur. The skin of this
otter is also made into strips for the sandals of kings, princes, and the
aristocracy generally in the Kingdom of Uganda and adjoining Bantu
countries.

The white-necked weasel (Pa'ciloj/ale albinucha) is found, but not
commonly ; the same thing may be said of the ratel, or honey-badger.

Amongst the rodents may be mentioned as specially common or
remarkable the handsome squirrels of the genera Sciurus and Xerns,
the porcupine (Hystrix galeata). the ground rat* (Thryonomys sivin-
derenianus), the Cape jumping hare (Pedetes cafer), and one or more
species of hare.

There are two, or possibly three, species of hyrax in the Uganda
Protectorate. Procavia Crcnvshayi and Procavia Jacksoni are found on
Kuwenzori up to the snow-line, on Elgon, and on the Nandi Plateau.
In the lower lying country below 4,500 feet, there is a hyrax {Procavia
raarmota) remarkable in appearance, witli long, silky, dark chocolate-
coloured hair and a very large white patcli on the back. The hair of
this animal falls over its face much as it does in those fancy breeds of
guinea-pigs or in a Skye terrier. I ke])t one of these animals some
months in captivity, and its favourite food was the flowers of the banana.
On the mountain ranges of the Uganda Protectorate the hyrax is a most
important animal in the eyes of the natives, as they depend on it almost
entirely for clothing and a great deal for food. They are extremely fond
of its flesh, and this is the one and only bait which draws them up to
the snow-line of Kuwenzori. The beautiful woolly fur of the mountain
hyraxes is the principal skin worn by the natives of these upland
districts as a protection from the cold. IMany hyrax skins are sewn
* A creature in appearance like a huge guinea-pig with a short tail.

\ k,.

A Iackal of Uganda.

ZOOLOGY

.S()9

together neatly until a large fur cloak is formed, and this is thrown over
the slioulders.

The elephant is found all over Uganda, except [nM-liaps close to thiekly

226. THE CAPE JUlll'ING HAKE (A CLUMSY .IEHBOA) : PJiDI-TKS C.iFFliK

populated districts. I liave seen large herds of this wonutrful lu-ast, whose
appearance and mode of life so vividly recall those past ages of the earth's
history when man had not yet made himself master of creation. The
elephant might have attained to this position had not this clever ape
VOL. I. -■!

370

ZOOLOGY

forestalled liini. J^ut few eleplianls were killed by my expedition. We
were rather anxious, on the other hand, to make experiments in the
direction of ])reserving and domesticating this remarkable beast. To attain
tliis end I called firstly the chiefs of the Kingdom of Uganda into council
and asked them whether their people could attempt to ensnare or catch
in some way very young elephants sufficiently small to be easily controlled.
Little or nothing of the kind had ever been attempted before in this [)art
of Africa, just as they had never made any previous effort to catch chim-
p)anzees ; but so delightfully quick of response are these intelligent negroes,

•:i.i'i'iiA\'r ANii y.KiiRA at Entebbe

and so anxious to meet one half-way in developing their country, that
within a week of having first mentioned the matter to the Baganda chiefs
the first young elepiiant in our series of experiments was landed alive and
well at Entebbe. This little creature was at the time only four feet high.
In two days it had become perfectly tame, and would follow a human
being as readily as his own mother. It was easy enough to feed him
with milk, because all that was required was a bottle with a long neck.
This bottle was filled with cows' milk diluted with water, and poured
down the elephant's throat. Soon all that one had to do was to place
the neck of the bottle in the elephant's mouth, and the intelligent

ZOOLOGY

>>/

A YOUXi; /.KlIKA

creature wound its trunk
round the neck of the
bottle, tilted it up, and
absorbed the contents.
For several weeks the
elephant throve, and be-
came a most delightful
pet. It would allow any
one to ride on its back,
and seemed to take plea-
sure and amusement in
this exercise. It would
find its way tln'ougli
diverse passages into my
sitting-room, not upset-
ting or injuring anything,
but deftly smelling and examining objects of curiosity with its trunk.

At the same time we had in captivity a young zebra, which was also
to be the pioneer of a domesticated striped horse. These two orphans,
the elephant and the zebra, became greatly attached to each other, thouc^h
perhaps there was more enthusiastic affection on the ])art of the elephant,
the zebra at times getting a little bored with constant eml)races. Alas
and alack ! liotli elephant and zebra died eventually from the unwhole-
someness, to them, of cows' milk. Several other elephants of the same
age — that is to say, about four to six months old — were delivered into mv
hands, but all eventually died. Cows' milk a])pears to give these creatures
eventually an incurable diarrhcea, while all attempts at that earlv age to
substitute for milk farinaceous substances have also resulted in a similar
disease. I do not say that it is impossible to rear young elephants
by hand, for we have not made a sufficient number of experiments, but it
is very difticult. I therefore favour the })lan of attem]>ting to catch
elephants of perhaps a year old, at which age they do not require milk
as an exclusive diet. One specimen of this age was caught, and was readilv
tamed, and for aught I know is still alive in captivity. As to young
zebras, thev must be reared with asses as their foster-mothers.

I am afraid that blustering creature, the rhinoceros, can be turned to
no useful purpose in the future of Africa, luit he is such a grotesque
survival from the great mammalian epoch that he should be steadily
preserved from extinction. The rhinoceros, however, is a handful, to use
a coUotiuialistn. All along the route of the I'ganda Railway game is being
carefully protected, with tlie agreeable result that antelopes, zebras, and
ostriches graze close to the line, as fearless of man as if they were in an

372 ZOOLOGY

English park, ^lucli the same condition may be observed in parts of the
I'rotectorate off the beaten track, where British sportsmen have not had
an opportmiity to harry and destroy. But in all these countries the
rhinoceros is not tamed liy this tolerance, but is apt to become a dangerous
nuisance bv charging at all and everything at a moment's notice when it
is plavful or out of temper. Thus amongst a people like the Masai it is
much dreaded. The ]Masai do not eat — and therefore do not kill — game.
Thev fear no wild beast but the rhinoceros, because all other creatures,
if they are let alone, seem to experience, as a rule, no desire to attack
liuman beings. The rhinoceros, however, makes absolutely unprovoked
charges, and occasionally gores a man before he has time to get out of the
way. Fortunately these huge beasts are very stupid and very lilind. They
])robably can see little or nothing with any clearness that is ten yards
away from them. They are guided entirely by their sense of smell, which,
however, is extraordinarily keen. If the rhinoceros is out of temper, and
gets wind of a liuman being or some other form of animated life, he will
suddenly charge " up the wind." Mr. Doggett once saw a male ostrich
nearly felled and gored by a rhinoceros whicli was seized with a fit of
improvoked wrath. The ostrich was so completely taken aback at the
charge that it only eluded the rhino's horn by a close shave. It is
rare that the rhino deflects from tliis line of charge to the right or to
the left ; therefore, any one who is on his guard can jump aside and let
this steam-engine of an animal plunge snorting on its reckless career.
The rhinoceros, however, is often very timid, and so far as my small
experience of its habits is concerned, rarely, if ever, charges the sportsman
because it has been shot — unless, of course, the latter approaches imprudently
close to a wounded animal. Ehinoceroses are seen in ones and twos, or at
most there may be a bull, a cow, and a calf together. However abundant
they are in a district, they never seem to go in herds, and niore often
than not are seen grazing apart from one another.

The rhinoceros of which a picture is here given is the ordinary
pointed-lipped, black rhinoceros of Africa, which ranges, or used to range,
from Cape Colony to Abyssinia and Nubia, and thence, })erhaps, across
Africa westward to Lake Chad and Eastern Nigeria. So far as I am aware,
the rhinoceros has not been found to exist in x\frica west of tlie Central
Niger, if, indeed, it gets much farther west than Lake Chad.* This is
curious, if true; because the other big beasts of tlie African fauna, though,
like the rhinoceros, they mostly avoid the Congo and ^^'est African forests,
stretch in their distribution right across Africa, from Abyssinia to Senegal.

* Rhinoceroses swarmed in the countries to the north of Lake Chad in the days
of the Eonians. This fact was rejiorted by the exploring Eoman expedition under
Septimus Flaccus, sent south of Fezzan towards Lake Chad at about a.d. 10.

ZOOLOOV

373

229. A MALE KlllNutEUo.^ w

X/S)

The two exceptions, however, to this rule seem to be the zebra and the
rhinoceros. Not infrequently the East African rhinoceroses produce horns
of extraordinary length. The record, I believe, is forty-seven inches for the
front horn. I obtained from the north-eastern part of Uganda (Karamojo
country) a hovn measuring forty-three inches long. It is alwavs said bv the
natives tliat these very long horns are grown by old females. I do not
know whether this is true, but I only know in my own exjjerience that
I have never seen the head of a male pointed-lipped rhinoceros bearing an
exceedingly long front horn, though his front horn is always thicker and
larger at the base than it is in the female. P'emale horns are not only
long, but slender, and sometimes the extremity is a little thicker than
the diameter of the horn lower down — that is to say, the long front horn,
instead of tapering to a ]>oint, becomes very slender, and then expands
into a sjiatulate tip. It is clitiieult to see of what use this very
attenuated horn can l^e, as it looks too slender to be of much use as a
weapon of offence with such a iieavy mass behind it. I am inclined
to believe that all these very long horns coming from the Uganda
Protectorate belong to the (miscalled) white rhinoceros, the rhinoceros

874

ZOOLOGY

with the square-cut, non-prehensile upper li}). The existence of the
square-lipped rhinoceros in the Nile Province of the Uganda Protectorate
is now proved. The animal is probahly found eastwards as far as the
vicinitv of Lake Eudolf, and also in the Western Province of Uganda, in
Buddu, and Karagwe. Speke and Stanley both shot " white " rhinoceroses
in Karagwe and Ankole in the 'sixties and 'seventies.

As already mentioned, the horse tribe in Uganda is represented by the

230. YOUNG GRANT S /.I;Ii1;a, Ic.ANDA

Nubian wild ass in the north and north-east, Grevj's zebra in the north-
east and east, and Grant's zebra everywhere except in forest.

The common hippopotamus is still found in every river with water
enough to cover his recumbent body, and in nearly every lake or marsh
in the Uganda Protectorate. The animal is very dangerous to navigation
at the north end of Lake Albert and on the Upper Nile. He is conse-
quently not much protected by the Game Kegulations (purposely), as
there is no immediate danger of his becoming extinct; for in the vast
marshes of Kioga and Kwanya he will long be preserved from the white
man's rifle, and will be out of the way of steamer routes. I have noticed
among the hippopotamuses of the Victoria Nyanza a marked development

ZOOLOCJY 375

of white bifurcated bristles on the muzzle. It is the last vestige of the
hair which once covered this aiiiiiiars body before it took so markedly to
an a(|uatie existence. It is just possible that tlie natives' stories of a
huge pig in the Seniliki forests may jjoint to the extension of the range
of the Liberian or pygmy hi})po})otamus (a forest-loving animal; right
across through the forest zone from the west coast of Africa 1o the
Semliki Eiver. The Belgians state that there is a very small hipjio-
potamus in the south-western part of tiie Congo Free State.

As regards the pig family, that group of artiodactvles is represented in
the Uganda Protectorate by the Ethiopian wart-hog in the west and centre
and south-east, and by the P^lian's Avart-hog in the nortii-east; also by
the bush-pigs, or river-hogs. Of these there are the common East African
species, which is widely distributed throughout the I'rotectorate, and the
red river-hog of West Africa, which is found in the Semliki Forest.

It may be of interest to mention that the camel as a domestic animal
has penetrated into the Kudolf and Nile Provinces of the Uganda Pro-
tectorate, though this creature in pre-historic times was once found in
Algeria and Arabia. There is nothing to show tliar it was ever indigenous
to tropical Africa.

The giraffe is found at the present day in the Eastern Province of the
Uganda Protectorate, in tlie northern part of the Central Province, and
in the districts east of the Nile. So far as 1 know, in the north and
south-east of the Protectorate the species or variety of giraffe is tliat
known as the northern or three-h.orned, the ordinary form of eiraffe which
is found right across the Sudan from Abyssinia to .Senegambia. (In the
Niger and Benue districts it is replaced by a distinct and very tall species,
Giraffa peralta.) lint in the north-eastern part of the Protectorate, about
Lake Baringo and ■Mount Elgon, the male giraffes possess five horn-bumjjs
or ancient horn-cores. I first heard of this peculiarity from a Goanese
i\ory-trader ; but as he had no specimen to show me, I did not attach
much importance to his remarks. In the month of May, 1901, we were
returning from a journey round Mount F^lgon, and for the first time in
the Uganda Protectorate I found myself among large herds of giraffe.
I was anxious to secure good specimens for the British Museum.
Mr. Doggett and myself therefore shot two males and two females. I was
surprised to notice that each of the males had five horn-bumps,* the
females being restricted to three. The four heads thus procured are
now in the British Museum at Soutli Kensington. I give here a photo-
graph of a male five-horned giraffe as it lay on the groimd just alter

* The two extra "horns" are two paralle'l biimiis ov knobs risinj? from the ridge at
the base of the skull, close to the tirst vcricbruiu. Tiicy are occii)ital as compared with
already existing parietal an I frontal protuberance;.

ZOOLOGY

• >/ /

being shot. L'nfortuiiately, tliougli this photograph gives distinctly the
markings of the animal, it does not enable the reader of these notes
to distinguish the five horn-bumps; but a careful drawing in colour of
the head of this giraffe from a side view is given in Chapter I. facing
p. 25. This variety of giraffe would appear to differ from its northern
congeners slightly in its coloration. The old males or females have the
spots or patches almost ])urple- black, while the hair in between the spots
is a dirty brown. This is the coloration of the upper part of the body,
but the legs and belly in the old specimens tend to be nearly pure white.
Seen from a distance, therefore, these five-horned giraffes when old looked
black and white, or mainly black, since the white part of their bodies is
often hidden by brushwood. The young, especially amongst the females,
are coloured much like the ordinary northern giraffe, with orange-coloured
patches on a cream-coloured ground. But before reaching the old stage
of nearly black and white, the adult males and females offer a very beautiful
coloration. The great polygonal patches are orange-brown, with a ])urple
rosette or centre, liut some of the spots about the face are purple-black
on a white ground. I also think that these five-horned giraffes are sliglitly
taller than the other forms of this animal. One male that we shot certainly
carried his head at a height twenty feet above the ground. These animals
go about in large herds, and the old ones, males or females, seem to stand
sentry whilst the rest of the herd browses unconcernedly on the branches
and leaves of trees. These sentries often choose a small hillock or large
ant-hill, and look veritable lighthouses in the distance as they stand out
against the sky. Seen any way but broadside, they do not appear to be
beasts, but resemble a huge, tapering black tree-trunk reared into the sky,
the neck being carried like a perpendicular tower. I have never seen a
more im})ressive sight in Africa than a large herd of these animals moving
about unconcernedly, taking little or no notice of our presence amongst
them ; for in this country round ^Nlount Elgon they had evidently been
uuattacked by man for a long period. When the four specimens above
referred to had been obtained, all further shooting was rigorously stopped,
and therefore we passed through subsequent herds containing hundreds of
these animals witliout any feeling of blood-guiltiness. The Somali giraffe,*
a very well-marked species, on whose hide the place of spots is taken by
a reticulation of whitish lines on an almost red ground colour, probably
penetrates to the vicinitv of Lake Raringo and the south end of Lake
Kudolf.

The author of this book remembers having encountered in his child-
hood— say in the later "sixties — a book about strange beasts in Central
Africa, which was based on information derived iVom early Dutch and

* Giraffa reticulata.

378

ZOOLOGY

Portuguese works. The publication of this book was more or less incited
at the time by Du Chaillu's discovery of the gorilla and other strange
creatures on the west coast of Africa, and its purport was to show that
there were in all probability other wonderful things yet to be dis-
covered in the Central African forests. Amongst these suggested wonders
was a recurrence of the myth of the unicorn. Passages from the works
of the aforesaid Dutch and Portuguese writers were quoted to show
that a strange, horse-like animal, of striking markings in black and white,
existed in the depths of these equatorial forests. The accounts agreed in

'-•• ft*. » 1 X ll-l

232. OLD MALE OF KIVE-HORNED GIRAFFE

saying that the body of the animal was horse-like, but details as to its
horn or horns were very vague. The compiler of the book (the ]ate
Philip Gosse, I think) believed that these stories pointed to the existence
of a horned horse in Central Africa.

Somehow these stories — which may have had a slight substratum of
truth — lingered in the writer's memory, and were revived at the time
Stanley published his account of the Emin Pasha expedition, " In Darkest
Africa." A note in an appendix of this book states that the Congo Dwarfs
knew an animal of horse-like appearance which existed in their forests,
and which they caught in pitfalls. The occurrence of anything like a horse

ZOOT/)GY

->/

9

or ass — -aninials so jiartial lo treeless, grassy plains — in tlic (lejiths of" the
mightiest forest of the world seemed to me so strange that I determined
to make furtlier inquiries on the subject whenever fiite should lead uie in
the direction of tlie great Congo Forest. Fate was very kind to me in the
matter. In the first place, soon after arriving in I ganda my intervention
was necessary to prevent a too-enterprising (iernian carrying off" by force
a troop of Congo Dwarfs to perform at the Paris Exhibit ion. 'i'liesc lit tic
men had been kidna])])ed on Congo Vvee State territcrv. The Belgian

2^^. FEMALE UE K.ANDA El VE-11UKM;I I tUllAEEE (TliE EE.MALE HAS ONLY TMHEE lMi|;N>,i

authorities very properly objected, and as the German impresario had fled
with his Dwarfs to British territory, they asked me to rescue the little
men from his clutches and send them back to their homes. This was done,
and in so doing, and in leading them back to the forests where they
dwelt, I obtained much information from them on the subject of the
horse-like animal which they called the " okapi."' * They described this
creature as being like a zebra, but having the upper part of its body a dark
brown. The feet, however, they said, had more than one hcof.

* As a matter of fact, the Dwarfs ])roiiouiice(l the word "u'api,'" Imt the big
black tribes of tlie forest called the creature " okapi."

380 ZOOLOGY

Wheu we reached Belgian territorv, on the west side of the Seniliki
River, our inquiries were renewed. The Belgian officers at once said
they knew the okapi perfectly well, having frequently seen its dead hody
brought in bv natives for eatina;'. Thev stated that the natives were verv
fond of wearing the more gaudy portions of its skin ; and calling forward
several of their native militia, they made the men show all the bandoliers,
waist-belts, and other parts of their equijiment made out of the striped
skin of the okapi. They described the animal as a creature of the horse
tribe, but with large, ass-like ears, a slender muzzle, and more than one
hoof. For a time I thought we were on the track of the three-toed horse,
the hipparion. Provided with guides, we entered the awesome depths of
the Congo Forest. For several days we searched for the okapi, but in
vain. We were shown its supposed tracks by the natives, but as these
were footprints of a clov^en-hoofed animal, while we expected to see the
spoor of a horse, we believed the natives to be deceiving us, and to be
merelv leading us after some forest eland. The atmosphere of the forest
was almost im breathable with its Turkish-bath heat, its reeking moisture,
and its powerful smell of decaying, rotting vegetation. We seemed, in
fact, to be transported back to Miocene times, to an age and a climate
scarcely suitable for the modern type of real humanity. Severe attacks
of fever prostrated not only the Europeans, but all the black men of the
party, and we were obliged to give up the search and return to the grass-
lands with such fragments of the skin as I had been able to purchase from
the natives. Seeing my disappointment, the Belgian officers very kindly
promised to use their best efforts to procure a perfect skin of the okapi.

Some months afterwards, the pi'omise was kept by ]Mr. Karl Eriksson.
a Swedish officer in the service of the Congo Free State, who obtained
from a native soldier the body of a recently killed okapi. He had the
skin removed with much care, and sent it to me accompanied by the skull
of the dead animal, and a smaller skull which he had obtained separately.
The skin and skulls were forwarded to liOndon, where they arrived after
considerable delay, The British ]Museum entrusted the setting up of the
okapi to ]Mr. Eowland Ward, of Piccadilly, and from the mounted skin
and other data I have inade the drawings which illustrate this book, though
the coloured drawing was, in the main, done in Africa from the skin,
whilst this was fresh and still retained some indication of the animal's
form. The colours of the hair were brighter before the skin made its
journey to London. This coloured drawing originally differed in some
particulars from the appearance of the okapi as set up l\v Mr. Rowland
Ward. Until the okapi has been photographed alive or dead, and its
exact shape in the flesh is thus known, it is difficult to say which of the
two versions of my water-colour drawing is the more correct — that published

ZOOLOGY :^si

ill the " Proceedings oftlie Zoological Society" (wliicli was done iu Africa)
and tlie revised version of the same })ainting which illustrates this hook.
Ill the first version T have given the animal a very stout, horse-like build :

234. HKAII <IL' THK OKAPl

in the second, based on Mr. Kowland Ward's restoiatii>ii, T liave given a
more giraffe-like form to the mysterious okajti.

The size of the okapi is that of a large stag. It stands relatively

382 ZOOLOGY

liigher in the legs than anv member of the ox tribe; otherwise I should
compare its size to that of an ox. Like the giraffe, this ereatm-e has
onlv two hoofs, and no remains whatever of the other digits, whicli are
represented outwardly in tlie deer, oxen, and in most antelopes by the two
little "false hoofs" on either side of the third and fourth toes.

The coloration of the okapi is quite extraordinary. The cheeks and jaws
are yellowish white, contrasting abru})tly with the dark-coloured neck. The
forehead is a deep red chestnut ; the large broad ears are of the same
tint, hinged, however, witli jet black. The forehead ranges between vinous
red and black in tint, and a black line follows the bridge of the nose
down to the nostrils. The muzzle is sepia-coloured, Ijut there is a faint
rim or moustache of reddish yellow hair round the upper lip. The neck,
slioulders, barrel, and back range in tone from se))ia and jet l)lack to rich
vinous red. The belly is lilackish. exce})t just under the knees. The tail
is bright chestnut red, with a small black tuft. The hindquarters, land
and fore legs are either snowy white or pale cream-colour, touched here
and there with orange. They are boldly marked, however, with purple-
black stripes and splodges, which gi\e that zebra-like appearance to the
limbs of the okapi that caused the first imperfect account of it to indicate
the discovery of a new striped horse. The soft parts of the animal being
as yet unknown, it cannot be stated positively that the okapi possesses a
prehensile tongue like the giraffe, but the long and flexible lips would
seem to atone for the very weak front teeth. It is probably by the lips
and tongue tliat the creature gathers the leaves on which it feeds, for
according to the accounts of the natives it lives entirely on foliage and
small twigs. Like ail living ruminants (except the camel), it has no front
teeth in the upper jaw. The molars are very like those of the giraffe.

^fy first examination of the skull and skin of the okapi caused me to
name it tentatively Helladotheriani. The Helladotheriurii was a giraffe-
like animal that existed in the Tertiary Epoch in Greece, Asia jMinor, and
Lidia. Li India the Helladotheriurii attained a very great size, but the
Greek specimens were not quite as large as the modern giraffe. The
Helladotherium was hornless, like the okapi, and in another point it
resembled this animal, because the neck was not disproportionately long,
and the fore and hind limbs were nearly equal in length. The okapi bears
on the frontal and nasal bones three slight prominences, which may be
the commencement of horn-cores. These are covered outwardly with little
twists of hair. From the shape of the skull, which is straight and not
arched, Professor Eay Lankester argues that the okapi has never developed
horns. Though the okapi bears certain superficial resemblances to the
Helladotheriuin, it is probable, on the whole, that it comes nearest in
relationship to the giraffe, Heing, however, suthcientlv different from

ZOOLOGY 383

]io(li, it has been constituted liy Professor Kay Lankester a se])arate genus,
to wliicli he has given the name Okiiiila.

So far as is yet known, the existing range of the okapi is conHiied
to the northern |iart of the Congo Forest, near the SeniHki h'ivci-. The
okapi is found in the little territory of jAIhoga, which is an outlying
portion of the Uganda Protectorate. It is also found in the adjoinino-
})rovince of the Congo Free State. This same forest, I l)elieve, conceals
other wonders besides the okajji, not yet brought to light, including
enormous gorillas. ] have seen photographs of these huge apes, taken
from dead animals which have been killed In- the natives and brought in
to the J^elgians. A careful search might reveal several other sti-Hn<'-e
additions to the world's mammalian fauna.

Quite recently fossil remains of giraffe-like animals have been found
in Lower Egypt, as well as in Arabia, India, Greece, Asia Elinor, and
Southern Europe. It is prol)able tliat the okapi and the giraffe are the
last two surviving forms of this grou]) in tropical Africa. The giraffe has
esca})ed extermination from the attacks of carnivorous animals bv developing
keen sight, wary habits, and a size of enormous bulk. The giraffe, unlike
the okapi, prefers relatively open country, dotted with low acacia trees,
on which it feeds. Towering up above these trees, the girafie with its
large eyes can scan the surrounding country from an altitude of twenty
feet above the ground, and in this way during the daytime, and jjossiblv
on niglits that are not too dark, can detect the approach of a troop of
lions, the onlv creature besides man which can do it any harm. Man,
of course, has doiu' his level best to exterminate the mammoth, the
Fr ox, the quagga, the dodo, and the auk. But for the presence of man.
the giraffe might have been one of the lords of the earth. The defence-
less okapi, however, only survived by slinking into the densest parts of
the Congo Forest, wliere the lion never penetrates, and where the leopard
takes to a tree life and lives on monkeys. The only human enemies of
the okapi hitherto have been the Congo Dwarfs and a few Bantu negroes
who dwell on the fringe of the Congo Forest. How much longer the
okajii will survive now that the natives possess guns and collectors are
on the searcli for this extraordinary animal, it is impossible to say. It
is to be hoped, however, earnestly, that both the British and Belgian
Governments will combine to save the oka[)i from extinction.

All three species of African buffalo — Bos cafer (the well-known South
or East African buffalo) ; Bos tequinoctiaHs, the Central African buffalo of
Abyssinia and Lake Chad; and Bos pumilus, the little red Congo buffalo —
are represented in the Uganda Protectorate. The last-named is only found
within these limits in the country on the Congo border, in the western
l)art of the District of Toro. Its range extends to the easternmost limits

384 ZOOLOGY

of the great Congo Forest. (It is said, however, to be found in the forests
on the eastern side of Lake Albert Edward.) This creature would really
seem to be a degenerate development of the African buffalo, and not a
more primitive bovine. The least specialised of all the African buffaloes
is the Central African type, which is found in Kiagwe (a district of Uganda
2:)roper), and perhaps also in Karamojo and the north-eastern part of the
Xile Province. This animal has a much less marked development of frontal
boss on the horn than in Bos criffer and B. pmnilus. The horns are also
proportionately longer and flatter, and are turned more backwards towards
the neck than is the case with the South African buffalo. The Central
African type, therefore, makes an approximation to the Indian buffaloes.
The .South African buffalo once frequented the eastern, central, and western
districts of the Uganda Protectorate, as well as the Nile Province, in great
numbers. But the cattle plagues which began to ravage these countries
(coming thither from Dinkaland, between the White and Blue Niles) in
1883-4: and in subsequent years wrought such havoc among the buffaloes
that the South African species is now extinct in many parts of the
Uganda Protectorate, perhaps only lingering in Buddu (west of the
Victoria Nyanzaj, Ankole, Toro, Unyoro, and between the Nile and
Mount Elgon. The horns of this buffalo in Uganda scarcely differ in
size or develo^jment of frontal boss from those of South and South
Central Africa. The Uganda Nile Province almost marks the South
African buffalo's most nortliern limit of range, though this animal may
extend its distribution near the Nile to the vicinity of Fashoda. Its
])lace is taken northwards by the Central African tvpe (ceguinoctialis),
the range of which in Central Uganda overlaps that of the South
African form, for the Central African buffalo reaches the shores of tlie
Victoria Nyanza in the District of Kiagwe, and is also found in Busoga.

While dealing with the wild oxen of Ugauda, a few words might be
said here about the remarkable long-horned cattle of Ankole. This race
of domestic cattle, which is found in Southern Abyssinia and in Cala-
land, and wliieh reappears again in Ankole (west of Uganda) and tljence
southwards to Tanganyika, is characterised ordinarily by a straight back
without, or almost without, a hump over the shoulders and by horns of
gieat length. The horns have an outward and backward curve. They
are well illustrated by the accompanying photographs. This long-horned
breed has in many districts of Africa mingled with the other tropical
African race of domestic cattle, the humped zebu type so characteristic
of India. In the Central Province of Uganda most of the cattle are of
this mixed race. The long-horned type (not quite so pronounced) reappears
iu Africa south of the Zambezi. In a degenerate form also it is met
with in Western Africa in the [Nlandingo countries and Seneaambia.

VOL. I,

25

386

ZOOLOGY

The interesting question arises, Did this long-horned type originate from
a wild species of ox in Abyssinia or elsewhere in North-Eastern Africa?
Both the long-horned, straight-backed type of ox and the humped zebu,
together with the Eurasiatic cattle (Bos taurus) are all depicted in the
monuments of ancient Egypt.

There is no form of wild sheep or goat known to exist in any part
of the Uganda Protectorate, neither the ibex of the Abyssinian mountains

230. THE t'().M.\H)\ IHYKEU A.XTKLOPE OF EAST AXD SOUTH-EAST AFRICA (CEPJ{.U.OPHUS GRIMMl)

nor the maned sheep of the Nubian and Libyan deserts. The domestic
sheep and goats are of those types common to tropical Africa, Arabia,
Syria, and Persia, and certainly had an Asiatic origin.

Wherever there is not thick forest in the Uganda Protectorate, there
antelopes of many kinds are found, sometimes in great numbers. Within
the forest itself there are antelopes also, or ruminants, such as the
tragelaphs, which are incorrectly included under that designation. In the
dense iforests of Euwenzori and of Uganda proper the little Cephalopltus

ZOOLOGY

387

antelopes abound. On Kuwenzori these are of a species new to science,
with a coat of a brilliant chestnut-red. Elsewhere there is the common
duyker of South Africa, which is an ochreish yellow with black markings
on the head ; or there is the little blue Cephdophns of Uganda. This
is a tiny antelope hardly larger than a liare (Cephalophus equatwialis),
of a deep blue-grey colour inclining to black. The Baganda make beau-
tiful rugs of the small skins of this pretty little creature (which they call
■" entalaganya "), many skins being neatly sewn together.

237. A bTEINBUCK {RAPHICHKUS} OF THE EA&TKKN I'KoVlNCK OF XHK LUANDA rKOlECTOUATE

Although the western part of the Uganda Protectorate contains a
good deal of dense forest, and consequently many tracts in which large
antelopes are not found, it has, nevertheless, in Buddu (west coast of the
Victoria Xyanza), in Ankole (round the shores of the Albert Edwai'd Xyanza),
-and in the Upper Semliki Valley tracts of grass-land or park-like country
in which antelojjes abound so far as numbers are concerned, though the
species are fewer than in the northern and eastern parts of the Protectorate.
In these western districts the principal antelopes found are the waterbuck

388

ZOOLOGY

{Cobus defassa), Thomas's kob (Cobus thomasi), the topi, or bastard
hartebeest (Damaliscus), the reedbuck, the oribi, and the eland.
The most remarkable in appearance amongst all these is perhaps the
waterbuck (Cobus defassa). It is closely allied to the South African
waterbuck ((7. ellipsiprymnus), but has a tendency to be much redder
in the colour of its coat, especially on the head, which in some specimens
is vinous red and bright chestnut, with bold white markings. The horns,
above all, are superb. (.)ne pair we got was thirty-six inches measured

238. HOKNS OB" COBUS DEFASSA (?) FKOM THE SEllLIKI VALLEY

along the curve. I give an illustration of the head of one of these
magnificent waterbuck. In this particular case the horns were over
thirty-two inches in length. It was one of the most beautiful sights to
be seen in Africa to watch a herd of these fine creatures in the valley
of the Semliki Kiver. They had but little fear of man, so much so that
one could walk about amongst them almost as freely as through a herd
of deer in a park. They were moving slowly along, grazing, in thin,
short grass which flowered in remarkable white flossy plumes.. The
waterbuck were very red in colour, with black points and touches of
white about the bod^^; the thin grass through which they moved was-

ZOOLOGY

389

■emerald-green in stem and leaf, and bore this blossom of silvery white
on the surface, which the wind swayed into foam-like ripples. The river
lay below in bold sweeps of sky-blue broken here and there by purple-green
clumps of thickly foliaged trees. As a background to this scene rose the
grand heights of Kuweiizori, of a blue not much deeper than the azure
of the sky, showing here and there flakes of white, which were snow or
■cloud. The females of these waterbuck, as indeed of all the Cohus genus,
are without horns. Their large ears are l)lunt ; black noses give them
rather an asinine appearance.

The Cohus thoniasi antelopes are pretty, graceful creatures, of pale
straw-yellow, with, black streaks on the legs, and white stomachs. Occasionally

239. Thomas's kob (copcs thom.isi)

there is an individual with a grey-white back, a " sport " which may be
initiating a new species.

In the Nile Province, and perhaps also in Northern Unyoro, the white-
eared kob (Cobiis leucotis) abounds.

The northern parts of the Protectorate, though offering country often
lacking in water and a climate which at times is unbearably hot, and the
countries round Elgon, Baringo, and Naivasha, give possibly the linest
sport in the way of a varied collection of big game, especially amongst
antelopes. In the north-eastern part of the Uganda Protectorate there
are probably a few white-bearded gnus still lingering. There are Jackson's
hartebeest, Coke's hartebeest, the bastard hartebeest, the pallah, reedbuck,
roan antelope, oryx, Grant's gazelle, Thomson's gazelle, Peters's gazelle, the
long-necked Waller's gazelle, the waterbuck, Thomas's kob, the oribi, the
madoqua, various kinds of duyker, kudu, eland, and bushbuck, and, in

390

ZOOLOGY

the Mau forest?, a tragelaph of a new kind not yet fully described, but
allied to the broad-horned tragelaph of West Africa.

In the Nile Province and in Northern Unyoro the handsome Baker's
roan antelo])e is found.

Amongst Uganda antelopes the pallah is a very fine form. This animal
is found in the north, north-central, and eastern parts of the Protectorate.
It ranges thence northwards to the vicinity of Abyssinia, and southwards
(formerly) to Cape Colony, while another species is found in parts of the
Congo region. So far as I know, the pallah type, like the rhinoceros and

zebra, does not stretch across the continent to the Niger. It is a beautiful
and interesting type of antelope, which appears to be rather an old form
and very near to the stock from which the hartebeests and gnus sprang.
The pallah, on the other hand, is allied to the gazelle group, and it may
have been the connecting link between these antelopes and the bubalines.
In colour it is a rich chestnut-brown with a pinkish gloss. The median
line of the back and tail, the outlines of the hindquarters, the tips of the
ears, and patches on the feet are diversified by bold black markings. The
skin of an animal in good condition has a beautiful, satin-like gloss, which
is well represented in the accompanying photograph.

I give here an illustration (photograph from a dead animalj of a very

ZOOLOGY

391

remarkable ruminant, Speke's tragelaph (Limnotragus spekei), a creature
which inhabits the large swamps of the more tro})ical portions of the Uganda
Protectorate. The tragelaphs are a group of hollow-horned ruminants
incorrectly included under the designation of antelope. They are in reality
no more antelopes than they are oxen, and, as a matter of fact, are more
closely allied in origin to the last-named group. All hollow-horned
ruminants — oxen, tragela[)hs, capricorns, goats and sheep and antelopes —
are very closely allied in structure, but they might be more correctly
grouped than they are, in homogeneous divisions. The ca^jricorns, goats,

241. BAKEK 8 ROAN ANTELOPE (HIPPOTRJCCS B.lKliRI

sheep, and antelopes have one almost constant feature in the structure of
their horns. These are annulated with distinct rings of growth, which in
most instances develop into verv apparent transverse ridges. In the oxen
and tragelaphs there are but faint traces of these regular annulations, if,
indeed, there are any traces at all. The common ancestor of the oxen,
the tragelaphs, and the great group of ring-horned ruminants had short
triangular horns, the laminations of which may have taken the form of
regular rings of growth. The lowest existing type of ox — the anoa — has
horns nearly triangular in section. The early tragelaphs, like the nilghai
of India, also had triangular horns. Early in the history of the tragelaphs,
however, the horns in their upward growth began to take a spiral direction,

ZOOLOGY

393

^^.

243. HEADS OF coke's HAKTEBEEST [RUJLII.I.S COK-ISl)

and these spirally directed horns (though this feature has independently
•developed in certain antelopes and goats) are universally typical of the
■existing tragelaphs, and are found in a marked degree in such forms as
the kudu.

At the present dav there are existing in the world one tragelaphine
species in India, the nilghai, and about fourteen valid species in Africa,
amongst which may be enumerated the eland, kudu, dwarf kudu, broad-
horned tragelaph, the bushbucks, and the water-loving Speke's tragelaph.
This animal, which has a congener called Selous' tragelaph in Barotse-
land, is really a large form of bushbuck which has become sjjecially
adapted to an existence in the water, especially in marshes. There
is also a West African type which from its handsome appearance is
called the " Pleasant " tragelaph. In all these three forms — Limnotragus
spekei, L. selousi, and L. gratus — the hoofs are much prolonged, as can
be seen in the accompanying illustration. The under side of the foot
is without hair, the false hoofs are much developed, the two toes spread
widely, and the creature is thus able to walk with ease over spongy
vegetable growth. In colour Speke's tragelaph is a dark mouse-brown,
tending sometimes to chocolate. The youug aud the females are a little
more chestnut in colour, and have faint white markings. The males
alone develop horns. This creature spends the greater part of the day-
time in the water, with little more than its nose showing above the surface.
It feeds on the youug shoots of papyrus and on the leaves of marsh

394

ZOOLOGY

plants. Nevertheless, it is quite a mistake to suppose, as some travellers
have done, that it is unfit for progression on land. It can take tremendous
leaps, and gets over the ground at a great pace, little, if at all, hindered
by its splay feet.

The orycteropus, or ant bear, a huge edentate of nocturnal habits, is
found in the eastern part of the Uganda Protectorate, though not, I believe,
in Uganda proper or in the Western Province. It is, however, very common
in the Kift A'alley, round about Lake Baringo, and in Kavirondo, to the
south of ]Mount Elgon. Here it enters largely into the native beast
stories. The only other edentate in the country, of course, is the manis,
a creature so utterly distinct in formation from the ant bear (though
not so far removed from the armadillos and other edentates of South
America) that several biologists have considered the orycteropus to have

244. speke's teagelaph [limxotr.-igus spek-f./)

ZOOLOGY

395

no affinities with the other edentates, but to be separately descended
from some other mammalian stock. The manis lives on trees, and, like
the or3'cteropus, feeds on ants and termites, licking them up with the
long, sticky tongue which is protruded from its tiny mouth. In captivity
the manis seldom thrives, though it can be got to eat finely chopped
meat and milk. It is covered from its snout to the ti]) of its tail with

Hind foot

Cartilage
False hot

Under-side hare

245. FEET OF L/.UXOTR.-IGUS SPl'.k-E.

large overlapping scales of a horny texture, though there is hair on the
under side of the body. The mouth is reduced to a mere hole, but the
creature has means ot' offence in its sharp claws and of defence in its
horny armour. When in captivity, until tame or unless trying to escape,
it rolls itself into a ball. In this condition one must be wary about
taking it up, as it has a way of straightening itself and nipping the
fingers between the hard serrated scales. The manis of Uganda, like
that of West Africa, sometimes, if it descries a possible enemy whilst

396

ZOOLOGY

climbing a tree, flings its body backwards and remains perfectly immobile,
with the short front legs tucked uj), whilst the tail is firmly pressed
against the tree-trunk. The sharp toothed edges of the scales press
into the bark, and with the hind feet maintain the creature in position.
The body may fall back to an angle of 30° from the vertical tree-
trunk. In this attitude the manis resembles exactly the grey, scaly
commencement of a branch which near its junction with the trunk has

-'4'-'. KKMAI.E <Jf OiLVM's GAZKl.LE

been broken off. The manis naturally attracts a great deal of attention
from the natives, enters into their stories, and is one of the totems of
the Baganda clans.

The Uganda Protectorate is very rich in birds. In no part of Africa
that I have ever visited has bird life seemed so abundant and so omni-
present. In attempting to describe the landscapes in the first chapters
of this book it has been constantly necessary to refer to the bird element
in the scenery. The least observant European sojourner in the Eift Valley

ZOOLOGY 397

must be conscious of the black chats with white patches on their
wings, hopping about tlie settlements, courting, singing, fluttering their
wings, and turning back their tails. The flamingoes on Lakes Naivasha
and Hannington, the colleges of marabou storks, the companies of crown
cranes, the solitary stalking secretary bird, the wheeling kites, the grififon
vultures, the black and white Egyptian vultures with yellow beaks and
yellow legs, the gorgeous, glossy starlings, with their plumage of iridescent
blue-green and copper-red, the brightly coloured or extravagantly plumed
widow finches and weaver birds are all familiar objects in the landsca})es
of the Eastern Province. The grey parrots, and the many richly plumed
plantain-eaters and turacos in the forests of the Central, Western, and
Uganda Provinces, the screaming fish eagles, the brown Xecros/pies vulture,
the grey Spizaiitus eagles, and the handsome bateleur and lilack-crested
eagles, the sun birds, barbets, green parrots, green pigeons, blue and mauve
rollers are seldom absent from one's sight in the daytime as one traverses
the forests and the grassy down country in Uganda, Toro, Busoga, and
Elgon. The shores of the Victoria Nyanza and of the other lakes, the
marshes and back-waters of the Nile, are frequented by countless water-
birds, by whale-headed storks and saddle-billed storks, by herons of gigantic
size or minute, rail-like form — herons that are snow-white in many species,
or dark slaty blue or fawn-colour; by spur-winged geese, Egyptian geese,
knob-nosed ducks, and the exquisite little "pygmy goose"; by pelicans,
cormorants, and darters, to name only a few among the more prominent
types.

I will attempt to give a few notes concerning the more common,
striking, or rare members of this avi-fauna.

In India and Africa there is a group of birds related to the finclies and
starlings wdiich are called weaver birds from their habits of interlacing
grass and leaf stalks into a regular network to form their pendent nests,
A section of these weaver birds is known as widow finches, from the fact
that the male during the breeding season develops his tail feathers into
extraordinary plumes out of all proportion to the size of his body. The most
extravagant of all these birds in the development of tail is Chera progne,
of which a picture is given. This bird is found in parts of South Africa,
and reappears again (strange to say) in the north-eastern part of the
Uganda Protectorate. In this Chera (which is about the size of a thrush)
not only are the plumes of the tail such as would be remarkable in size
in a gamecock, but the primaries and secondaries of the wings appear also
to be permanently enlarged out of all proportion to the body, in order to
assist in supporting this enormous tail. The female is a small finch-like
bird, with a flat tail not out of the common. The male in this species is
supposed to drop these heavy plumes after the breeding season. When

398

ZOOLOGY

these birds are flying through the air they seem to be almost supported,
as by a parachute, on the outspread tail feathers, and to float on these
expanded plumes. When the bird is in full flight, yet slackening pace
with a view to perching on a twig, the tail feathers curl forwards and
diverge in a most shapely manner. Another common widow finch in
Uganda is Penthetria ardens. It is like anything but the conventional
widow in its gorgeous plumage of head and neck, just as its companion
in my water-colour drawing is known to " the trade " as the " bishop finch "
(Pyrofjielana), though it does not resemble the usual clothing of a l^ishop.
In the spring months in that part of the Uganda Protectorate which is

247. HETEROCORAX C.IPEXS/S

north of the equator (but perhaps again in the autumn) the males of these
widow finches develop extravagant tail plumes in the genera Chera,
Penthetria, and Vidua, and in other kinds, such as the bishop finch, blaze
out instead into gorgeous red or yellow body plumage. The male would
then appear to be courted or followed by five or six females, who are
assiduous in claiming his attentions. These pretty creatures are never
absent on bright, sunny days from the landscapes of flowering grass and
blossoming shrubs. The male, followed by his covey of adoring hens, flits
from one grass patch to another, and the air is full of the harsh little cries
which come from the squabbling and jealous hens.

There are few districts in the Uganda Protectorate without the beautiful

ZOOLOGY

399

glossy starlings, but these birds appear to be more than usually abundant
or prominent round about Lake Baringo. Being quite unmolested by the
jNIasai and Kamasia, they frequent the outskirts of villages in large numbers,
making an impressive display as they settle in flocks on the bare skeletons
of leafless trees.

In the Uganda Protectorate the crow tribe is represented, in the
lower lying and more tropical portions, by the well-known black and white
crow of tropical Africa; on the high plateaux and mountains by the white-
necked raven, and also by a black crow which is ap])arently Heierocorax
capeiisis. On the Nandi Plateau is found a remarkable looking corvine,

248. RHfXOCORAX AbFlXJS (THE SI.ENl IKK-BILLEI) CROW OF NANDl)

which I illustrate. This bird in habits and general appearance strongly
resembles a rook. It has a way of perching on trees in the middle of a
camp and cawing until the exasjDerated traveller who sufifers from nerves is
inclined to go out and shoot it. Its scientific name is Bhinocorax affinis.

There is the usual abundance of bulbuls, warblers, and thrushes in
common with the rest of tropical Africa. In connection with these birds
I am weary of contradicting the foolish old dictum that in the tropics
birds, though gorgeous of plumage, do not sing. In Uganda, as in British
Central Africa, one's ear is constantly delighted with the songs of thrushes,
warblers, and bulbuls.

Amongst barbets may be mentioned the very common and very beautiful

400 ZOOLOGY

crimson-breasted barbet, found in all the well-wooded regions of the
Protectorate, and illustrated in this book.

Honey-guides (Indicator) are present, but one does not hear much from
the natives of their services in leading man to the hives of wild bees,,
though the practice is not unknown to the natives. There is a very
common and very handsome species of jjurple and white cuckoo (amongst
many other birds of this tribe). The mouse birds (Coiius) play in every
thicket, but I have not noticed them as present in the dense tropical
forests.

Amongst the most beautiful and remarkable birds of the Uganda
Protectorate must certainly be named the great blue plantain-eater.
This bird, which is called scientifically Corytlui'ola cristata, is the
largest member of that remarkable group of purely African birds which
are known as the plantain-eaters or turacos. The family of the turacos
{Musophagidce) occupies a rather central position in the classification of
birds. The nearest relations of the group are with the cuckoos, but there
are also interesting affinities to Opisthocomus* to the parrots, and perhaps
also to the gallinaceous birds. There is a remarkable superficial resem-
blance between the species now illustrated — the great blue plantain-eater
and the tree-haunting gallinaceous curassows of South America. As already
stated, the range of the Musophagidce is confined to Africa south of
the Sahara Desert. It is a remarkable fact that all its genera are
represented in the Uganda Protectorate, a fact which cannot be cited
of any other part of Africa, for here the western, eastern, and southern
forms all meet. Here we have the prince of the order, the great blue
plantain-eater (Corythceola), the violaceous plantain-eater {Miisophagci),
the grey plantain-eater (Schizorhis), the Gymnoschizorhis. the Gallirex,
and the turaco (Corytliaix). The great blue plantain-eater is found in
Uganda proper, and thence westwards throughout the Congo basin. It
is a very bold bird, rather preferring the vicinity of human habitations
than averse to the proximity of man. Through the hours of daylight
it is for ever shouting, boo-hooing, braying, and shrieking from
the branches of big trees. It is perpetually pursuing its comrades or
mates with sportive leaps from branch to branch. ^^'hen too closely
observed by man, the bird has a woodpecker-like habit of dodging round
the bole of a tree, keeping out of sight and out of aim. The female in
this genus (unlike the others) is distinctly smaller than the male and
much more dingily coloured. In size the male bird is equal to a large
pheasant.

The hornbills are well represented. There is the strange-looking ground

* A strange and primitive type of tree-haunting bird frequenting the forests of
South America — the " hoatsin."

. ^ < %.^

The Great Blue Plantain-eater (Coryth(eol.i cK/sr.ir.-i).

ZOOLOGY 401

licirubill, an instance of force of circaiusrances transforming a " small "
bird of arboreal habits (in its origin) into a large ground-frecjnenting bird,
the short legs of its family becoming long, and its whole outward
appearance presenting a remarkable but misleading resemlilance to the
gallinaceous birds. In the forests may be seen- — and heard — the large
black and white hornbills with enormous helmeted beaks. The crv of
these birds is unusually loud, ])enetrating. and vaiied in sound, sometimes
resembling the raving cries of a woman maddened bv fright and i)ain, at
other times being the caricature of a donkey's bray. Tlie smaller hornbills
of the genus Toccas, with their black, wliite. and lirown i)lumage, and
black or red beaks, are very common, especially in the east and central
parts of the Protectorate. Being absolutely uneatable and not usually
attractive in plumage, they are bold, and constantly thrusting tliemselves
on the traveller's notice.

Amongst parrots, there is the grey parrot of West Africa-, not differing
at all in colour of plumage from the parrots found along the course of
the (.'ongo. The range of this bird would appear to be increasing rapidly
at the present time. About fifty years ago (according to tlie stories of
Arabs and Swahilis) it had just reached the west coast of Tanganyika, and
had perhaps penetrated eastwards in the Uganda Protectorate as far as.
Kavirondo. It has now made its way across to the north end of Lake
Nyasa and to the east coa^t of Tanganyika, and thence up the course of the
^lalagarazi Kiver. From Kavirondo it has spread eastwards to the Nandi
forests and thence right across the Eift ^'alley to Kikuyu, whence it will
probably soon reach the east coast of Africa. Already this bird would
seem to be developing su'o-species that may in time become valid species.
Besides Psittacus temneh of Sierra Leone, which is a distinct species and
a gre}' parrot without a red tail, tlie grey ])arrots of Prince's Island, off
the coast of Lower (iuinea, are becoming different in coloration to the
ordinary type. The grey plumage is developing into a dull purple, while
the scarlet tail is becoming violet-red, the upper mandible of the beak has
lengthened, and in some respects the parrot in Prince's Island is taking
the place of the raptorial birds, which the natives say it is driving from the
island. In the interior of Angola and the south-western part of the Congo
basin the grey of the grey parrot is turning to white and pink, some of
these birds actually becoming pink all over, with a scarlet tail. In Uganda
the plumage is the normal colour as we know it — ash-grey and whitish
grey, with a bright scarlet tail. The young birds are cajttnred by the
natives from the nesting places (holes in trees) and are easily tamed.
Yet as far as I can ascertain the Baganda never commenced this practice
until taught to do so by the Swahili porters from the coast, who of course
were incited thereto by the Europeans and Indians; for it very rarely
VOL. I. 26

402 ZOOLOGY

occurs to the Negro as a matter of initiative to domesticate the birds and
beasts around him. In parts of the Uganda Protectorate there are love-
birds, and there are several species of the Poeocephalus (usually green,
grey, and sulphur-yellow in colour).

There is nothing specially remarkable about the gallinaceous birds. All
through the Protectorate guinea-fowl are extremely abundant, but they
appear to belong only to the two common species, the crested {Guttera
piicherani') and tlie horned {Nimiida ptilorhyiicha). The crested crane is
found throughout the Protectorate, but T do not think there is any other
member of the crane family within its limits.

As regards birds of prey, a word might be said about the distril)ution
of the vultures. Throughout the Protectorate is found that common — and
commonplace — Necrosyrtes ntonachus, a small brown vulture with a whitish
head and neck. This is the common vulture from Sierra Leone on the
west to Mombasa on the east, and from Fashoda on the north to the
Zambezi on the south. It is a near ally of the much more strikingly
coloured Egyptian vulture. This last bird, however, only penetrates into
the Rudolf Province and Rift Valley in the eastern part of the Protectorate.
Although the big vultures of the genera Ofogyps and Gypjs are entirely
absent from the forested regions of Africa, they make their appearance in
the Uganda Protectorate in two directions in the same arid portions of the
Eastern Province and the countries round Lake Rudolf, and again in
the dryer part of the Semliki Valley, between Ruwenzori and the Congo
Forest. As a general rule it should be noted that between the Zambezi
on the south and the more arid regions of the Northern Sudan, vultures as
devourers of dead men and beasts are not such common objects as in the
desert or extra-tropical regions of the African continent. The common
Neophron vulture frequents the vicinity of all camps and settlements in
order to feed on offal and excrement much more than for the pur2:)0se of
devouring corpses. ^larabou storks and kites do a great deal more of this
work than the vultures, besides, of course, the hyaenas and jackals. Never-
theless, wherever the big vultures are present one may expect to see the
truly picturesque spectacle of the huge-winged, by no means ugly birds
hopping and flapping and croaking and guzzling over a dead body, so
covering u}) the bloody part of the scene with their splendid wings as to
deprive it of any element of horror.

The black-crested eagle and the sci'eaming chocolate and white
fish eagle are very common and very beautiful objects amongst the
Uganda birds.

The bateleur eagle is [)erhaps in coloration the brightest and most
conspicuous of all the birds of prey. This eagle is remarkable for its
very short tail feathers. These are reduced to a length scarcely exceeding

ZOOLOGY 408

three inches, so that the hii'd \v\un\ Hying appears to be ahnost without
a tail. The bateleur eagle is solely confined in its distribution to those
parts of the African continent which lie within the tropics and outside
the forest regions of West Africa. Tliis eagle was probably first made
known to science from .Senegal, and its name— " bateleur "—appears to
be a French version of a Senegalese name. In the classification of the
eagles it is usually placed with tlie sea eagle group, the members of which
often exhibit bright contrasts of colour in their ])lumage. The bateleur
eagle lives chiefly on small mammals. It hangs almost motionless in the
air with widely expanded wings, or swoops in a series of circles, its large
■eyes being fixed intently on the earth beneath in search of some creature
on which it may make its fatal descent. When it strikes its prey on the
ground it almost invariably opens tlie wings and brings them round
in a semi-circle, ready to shield its body from a counter-attack or possiblv
to protect its prey from any counter-swoop by a hungrv rival. This ea'^le
is never met with in thickly wooded country, but is usuallv characteristic
of the drier portions of Africa, or at any rate of the grass-lands.

The sacred and iridescent ibises are met with verv frequentlv — the
former wherever it is open and marshy, and the latter rather more
amongst forested regions. Beautiful white egrets of several species and
different sizes rejoice the eye with their graceful forms and effects of
absolute snow-white. The smaller kinds follow the cattle about to relieve
them of insects. The larger birds fish in all the creeks and pools.
When I was residing at Entebbe large flocks of the smaller egrets would
appear from time to time on my lawn, hunt busily there for grassho[)pers,
and then disappear, being so conscious of their usefulness as to betray
little or no fear of man.

Amongst storks I have already alluded to the frequentlv-met-with
marabou. The beautiful saddle-billed stork is fortunately still common,
and I ventured to place it on the protected list in order to })reserve it
from needless attack. This, perhaps, is the handsomest of all the storks.
Its long beak is crimson-scarlet with a black band, and with a saddle or
excrescence of bright yellow. The neck is glossy bluish-black, the wings
and tail are iridescent copper, bottle-green and blue-black, the rest of the
plumage being snowy white. Another handsome stork is the tantalus, with
a long curved beak of lemon-yellow touched with crimson, black wings,
and white body, and the shoulder feathers tipped with the most exquisite
rose-pink.

The whale-headed stork is perhaps the most remarkable bird in Uganda.
In its range and distribution it seems to be very nearly limited to the
area of the Uganda Protectorate, though it extends north-west down the
Nile as far as the vicinitv of Fashoda, and into the Eahr-al-Cfhazal

404 ZOOLOGY

region.* The whale-headed stork is of doubtful affinities: in all probability
it is more closelv related to the herons than to the storks. It really
seems to be an independent development from some primitive stork-like
form, like the existing tufted umbre (Scoyjus umhretta). This is a brown
biid with a short, broad beak not unlike that of the whale-headed stork.
The Scopus is confined in its range to tropical Africa. Balceniceps rex
is verv rarely seen on the shores of broad rivers or open sjiaces of water;
it generally frequents marshes and narrow backwaters or inlets. It feeds
principally on fish, but probably also swallows crustaceans and molluscs.
These birds are generally seen in pairs, presumably male and female.
The first specimens were sent to England from the Upper Nile by the
traveller, trader, and consul, Petherick. They were supposed to be restricted
in their distribution to the Bahr-al-Ghazal and the Upper Nile. It is
forty-one years since these earlier specimens were received by the British
Museum. The revolt of the ]Mahdi cut us off from access to the regions
of the Upper Nile, and for some reasons I cannot give no one ap})ears to
have observed the existence of this bird on the northern shores of the
Victoria Nyanza. Soon after we reached Entebbe, in Uganda, however,
my assistant, Doggett, when out shooting one day brought home a
specimen of Balceniceps, and it was afterwards found to be quite common
in the creeks close to the Government station at Entebbe. When the
British Museum had been supplied with sufficient specimens, the bird
was placed on the protected list, and it is to be hoped every effort will
be made to preserve from extinction so remarkable a creature.

Grebes are very common on the smaller crater lakes and most other
small pieces of water in the Uganda Protectorate. The various ducks and
geese in their effect on the landscapes have been alluded to in many
passages of this book. Those interested in their distribution can find the
species enum.erated in the appendices of this chapter. The striped-headed
gull, one or more species of terns, and red-beaked scissor-bills are common
on the great lakes. The plovers, thick-knees, lily-trotters and coursers,
the snipe, knots, and stilt-plovers, are all common African species, and do
not, so far as I know, offer anything peculiar to the Protectorate. The
same may be said about pigeons, though attention should be called to the
beautiful, if common, Golumha guinea, a West African biid which is
frequently met with in the well-wooded parts of the Protectorate, and which
I have illustrated in this book.

* It seeiiLS curious that a fish-eatiug water-l)ir(l should be restricted in its range to
the Nile basin. It may be that the Upper Congo and Tanganyika are not marshy
enough. Sir Henry Stanley asserts that the Balceniceps is found on the Tapper Congo,
and the i^resent writer believed as far back as 1882 that he had seen it on the
marshes of the Kunene in South- West Africa.

ZOOT.OGY

405

The ostriches found within the Uganda Protectorate appear to be the
northern and East African species. At the present time there are three
types of ostriches in Africa— that of Soutli Africa (south of the Zambezi):
the East African ostrich ; and the northern ostrich, which was formerly

249. THE OSTRICH OF THE NOKTHEKX jeAKTS OF THE LG.VXIU PKOTECTOUATK
[STRUTH/0 CAMELUS)

found riglit across the Sahara from the Sudan and Nigeria to Tunis and
Algeria, and from Senegal eastwards to Syria and Arabia. (The ostrich
also in pre-historic times existed in South Russia and AVestern India.)
The Somaliland or East African ostrich has, as a rule, poor plumes in the
male, and the feathers of commerce are for the most part derived from

406 ZOOLOGY

the northern and southern types of the bird. The feathers of the Uganda
ostrich are of good quality. The ilkistration here given is taken from
life. It represents a fine young male ostrich from Karamojo, a country in
the north-east of the Uganda Protectorate. An attempt is about to be
made in the eastern part of tlie Uganda Protectorate to start ostrich farms.

Amongst reptiles, the common African crocodile is naturally the most
prominent. These creatures as they lie on the rocks and sand ap})ear to
be of enormous size and length, but actual measurements are apt to show
that these estimates by the eye are untrustworthy. The biggest crocodile
we ever shot scarcely exceeded twelve feet in length, though it looked a
monster, and I believe fifteen feet is the greatest recorded length of any
measured crocodile that has been killed in the Uganda Protectorate. Their
attacks on the people, as on the beasts that come to the water's edge,
are as serious as elsewhere in Africa. The carrying awav of a man or
woman by a crocodile was at one time a daily occurrence at Entebbe. Of
late attempts have been made to put in practice an excellent idea which
originated in some other Protectorate — that of offering small rewards to
the natives for crocodiles' eggs, which are then carefully destroyed. A
continual war is waged by Europeans desirous of a good kind of rifle
practice on the crocodiles frequenting the vicinity of their settlements,
and by constant persecution this nuisance may in time be abated, ^^'e all
know that the attacks of man have completely driven the crocodile away
from the Nile below Khartum, though at one time within the historic
period this creature was found down to the shores of the Mediterranean
and in the lakes which now form part of the Suez Canal.

The crocodiles of the Victoria Nyanza, and, indeed, of any other African
lake or river, are fond of crawling out of the water during the daytime
to bask in the sun and digest their food in this pleasant warmth. They
like to hoist the head and fore-limbs above the rest of the body, and
frequently assume an attitude exactly like that depicted in my coloured
illustration. The crocodile has probably no more real humour in him
than a sea anemone, and yet to our eyes nature has mingled with his
ferocious aspect a hypocritical leer which suggests false sentiment and
" crocodiles' tears." The peculiar scoop of the under jaw at its junction
with the upper jaw, the grinning teeth, and the placidly closed eyelids
suggest the foolish smile which might pass over the face of a sleeping
drunkard, as though this creature in its reptilian slumber was dreaming
of some unusually toothsome human whose tender body it has recently
champed with gusto. I have sometimes seen through a field-glass the
niost ridiculous and incongruous spectacle of sleeping crocodiles, each

ZOOLOGY

407

wearing this ineffixble and foolish leer, l)eing solemnly gazed at bv
storks, cranes, herons, and other water-])irds perched above them on

250. A NEW CHAMELKON FROM Hb'WENZORI {CHAM.-E!.EO.\' yOHXSTOA-l)

one leg, and apparently contem[)lating the monsters more in sorrow than
in anger.

Amongst chameleons, two very extraordinary new species have been
discovered by us on the slopes of Kuwenzori I am enabled to give

408

ZOOLOGY

illustrations of both by the courtesy of tlie Zoological Society. It will be
observed that one of these chameleons in the male develops three horns.
Snakes are abundantly met with in Uganda, but although many poisonous

^^^^^^?^^f^J

^^JicWiiii^

251. ANOTHER NEW ('HAIMKI.EON FROM KUWENZOHI (c. .\7:.\ OAV/ZAT-V)

species are present, such as cobras, tree cobras, and i.ufif-adders, it is xery
rare indeed that one hears of death from a snake bite. When this does
occur, it is generally attributed to either the tree cobra (which at certain
times of the year goes out of its way to attack passers-by— no doubt in

ZOOLOGY 409

the breeding season) or to the patf-adder. The dreadful viper, or puft'-
adder, wliich hears the scientific name of Bitis fjabonica, is verv common
in Uganda, and its bite is perhaps more rapidly and surelv fatal tiian
that of any other venomous snake. Nevertheless, it is not, as far as I can
learn, a creature of aggressive malice, and is so far sluggish that the specimen
from which this painting was made was kept by me in captivity for some
time witli very little objection on its ])art. It used occasionallv to esca[)e,
and would then allow itself to be picked u[) and brought back bv the
negro servants without any attempt at biting. In the cage where it lived,
however, were three enormous pythons, and the pythons used to annov it
by rolling their huge bulk over its body. When they were particularlv
exasperating, it would turn and bite them, and a bite with its formidable
fangs would be followed by the spurting forth of two little streams of
blood. Nevertheless, the death of the pythons did not follow as instan-
taneously as we knew would have been the case with warm.er-blooded
creatures ; they only became ill, and lingered for two days before they
finally died.

The coloration of tliis puff-adder is perhaps more vivid and beautiful
than in any other snake. It is like a carpet pattern of alternate black,
greenisli yellow, mauve, and liufif; while by the inflation of the body
white edges to the scales are often shown. Soon after deatli these colours
fade away completely and the dry skin gives no idea of the blooming
tints of the live animal. I write '• blooming," because the beauty of these
colours is enhanced by a delicate bloom which appears on the scales, and
which softens the tints so that the whole design might have been painted
on velvet.

Large pythons are very common, especially in I'ganda proper. They
eat beasts from a goat to a rat in size, and even condescend to devour
frogs and toads. Tliey rarely, if ever, seem to attack human beings, and
the natives ha\e little dread of them, often putting their hands into the
hole where the ])ython takes refuge and dragging out the unwilling
snake. I kept a number of these snakes in captivity for about a \ear,
and some of them became quite tame. The longest python we measured
reached to nearlv seventeen feet.

Among fish may specially be noted the ''mamba" of the Kaganda. the
Protopterus, or lung-fish. This animal is very abundant in the waters
of the Victoria Nyanza. To those to whom it is not a totem the flesh
appears very succulent and nourishing, but the Protoptenis is greatly
dreaded bv the fishermen. It has sharp teeth, which are n^ally .serrated
ridges of bone, and with these it inflicts very severe bites. Moreover, it
will take the offensive quite readily. Some of these mud-fish grow to

410 ZOOLOGY

a length of five feet. Their habits are well described in Mr. Eoulenger's
book on "The Fishes of the Congo Basin." A list of the known fish of
the Victoria Nyanza and of other parts of the Protectorate is given by
this gentleman in an appendix. The fish of Uganda are almost identical
with those of the tropical Nile, though of course not without close affinities
to the fish of the Congo basin, inasmuch as only a few miles of forest
separate tlie streams flowing to the Nile from the tributaries of the Congo.

The fresh-water ci'abs which are found in most of the lakes and rivers,
even to the tiny mountain streams, all apparently belong to the same genus
{TeJphasa). Scorpions, soiifugce, spiders, and ticks are of course abundant,
but as far as I know offer no species peculiar to the country. The Nejphila
spiders grow to a considerable size. If one of them were placed on a page
of this book, its legs would extend to the extremities of the page. One of
these (Xephila hicasii) weaves webs that must l^e a yard and a half in
diameter. The silk of the web is a pale gold in colour, and gives a
beautiful effect when the sun strikes it. This XepJtUa is illustrated by
a coloured drawing done by Mr. Doggett. Another species of spider
constructs cobwebs that are so dense as to be opaque. These spiders
evidently live in colonies, and cover the bushes all round about with
festoons of thick grey cobwebs so as to hide most of the leaves and
branches. It is most disagreeable to stumble by accident into one of
these spider colonies and emerge covered from head to foot with thick,
clinging cobwebs that are strewn with the remains of the spider>' feasts.
Ticks abound in the long grass, and constitute a perfect plague amongst
domestic animals. I do not remember, however, having encountered or
heard of that poisonous tick which is well known on the Zambezi, and
whose bite is so venomous as to induce fever.

As regards insects, much of the bitter complaint which the author of
this book wrote in his work on British Central Africa might be repeated
in regaid to Uganda. The butterflies^especially in the forested regions —
are certainly remarkable for their beauty, and there are enormous moths
exquisitely coloured in shades of pink and grey and lemon-white, and
measuring perhaps six inches across the wings. But the caterpillars of
these large moths — though equally beautiful objects, being covered with
golden, amber, or orange plush half an inch in depth — are creatures which
should not be incautiously handled, as these plush-like hairs can inflict a
most painful sting, causing sometimes severe inflammation.

Among beetles there is the Goliath beetle of West Africa, whose colora-
tion of blackish green and very pale pink makes him a striking object-
on the forest path.

A NePHILA Spider from Toko: half natural size.

ZOOLOGY 411

The jigger, or l)urio\viiig Hea, has reached Uganda from the west
coast of Africa in its migration across tlie continent. Two or three years
ago this pest was becoming very serious, as numbers of the natives were
permanently lamed by its attacks on their feet, or even lost their lives
from the mortification which followed jigger wounds. But, as in British
Central Africa, the jigger has recently decreased in numbers, l)eing
apparently kept down by the heavy rainfall. Europeans who take reason-
alile care of themselves scarcely suffer to any extent from its attacks,
and tlie natives are now becoming very adroit and careful in removing the
jigger soon after this little female flea settles herself under the skin.

The greater part of the Protectorate has been visited yearly for some
time past by ravaging flocks of locusts. These do not seriously damage
the well-forested countries that are covered with rich vegetation, but thev
cause positive famines in the drier districts, where they eat up food crops.
Tills locust, as already noted in the book, is the Pachytylns mirjratorioides
of tlie Sahara Desert and Arabia. Increase of population and human
settlement over the whole country is the only sure way of counteracting
the attacks of these locusts, unless they are exterminated in their original
home, the desert regions in the northern half of Africa.* If a countrv is
densely ])opulated, however, the noise made by the people distracts the
locusts and drives them off. They may in this manner be skilfuUv driven
towards the waters of some considerable lake, like one of the Nyanzas.
When they attempt to fly across a large sheet of water, they nearlv always
fall from exhaustion after a few miles' journey, and are drowned in the
waters of the lake. This fact has made such an impression on the
natives of Uganda that the Albert P>dward and Albert Nyanzas ai'e each
called the Killer of Locusts (Luta Nzige or Muta Nzige). Moreover, if
steady protection is accorded to all the larger insect-eating birds, and to
hawks, kites, storks, and cranes, a hundred agencies will exist by which
quantities of these abominable insects may be devoured.

In all the country below 7,000 feet in altitude termites (" wliite ants")
of several different genera are present, and the termite hill is one of the
commonest objects in all Uganda landscapes. The extraordinary ant-hills
which are raised in the Baringo and Kudolf Districts I have already
illustrated. In many countries the surface of the prairie-land is dotted
with innumerable mounds which are all raised by termites, and give the
earth's skin the a})pearance of being pimpled.

Mantises and stick insects, cockroaches, and crickets are to the full
as wonderful and repulsive in their develo}>ments as elsewhere in Africa.
The stick insects may reach quite twelve inches in .length, and their

* Where experiments, similar to those made in Natal, of inoculating captured
insects with a fungoid disease, might well be tried.

412

ZOOLOGY

252. A MANTIS INSECT

resemblance to stalks of
grass is amazing. If
they only had the senst-
not to move their legs,
tlieir presence would
never be detected by man
or bird. Several mantises
are painted with beauti-
ful pink eyes, like the
ocellus in a peacock's
tail, on the backs of
their wings. (Jne or
two cockroaches develop
wing-cases of mau\e
and yellow, but nevertheless have all the repulsiveness of their kind.
Some of the crickets are enough to make a sensitive person swoon
with horror at the sight of their enormous fat bellies and huge square
heads.

Wild honey bees are presumably present throughout the Protectorate.
There are many large solitary carpenter bees, one or two specimens of
-which produce really handsome insects. There is one very large bee of
this "solitary" kind which is abundantly met with in the well-wooded
regions of the Protectorate where there are plenty of flowers. This
creature is nearly the size of the smallest bird, and its body is covered all
over with golden plush. Wasps of many kinds are met with, but though
they are armed with powerful stings they very seldom take the offensive.
The mason wasp makes itself rather a nuisance if one lives in a house,
because it is constantly making clay nests on the backs of one's books
or wall ornaments and stuffing them with moribund grubs and caterpillars.
In addition to this habit, the mason wasp, when he, or rather she, visits
your dwelling, makes such a fidgety booming and buzzing that you are
compelled to take notice of her proceedings and flick at her with napkins
and handkerchiefs.

Ants, of course, are found in legions, except on the cold plateaux. There
is the tiny kind which gets into one's sugar and biscuits; there is a fierce
black ant in the forests and a red tree ant (both of which bite with great
ferocity and attack one unprovoked); and there is one ant, a large one,
living in twos and threes, which is worse than all the other ants put
together, for it produces the most api)alling stench, especially after rain has
fallen. If by accident you tread on one of these ants and crusli it, the
smell which results is so skunk-like that you are obliged to avoitl the
locality where the deed has taken place for some hours unless you want

ZOOLOGY 4ia

to be fairly sickened. The smell resembles that of ioul (h-aiiis or of a
decaying coipse.

As regards the Dipteva, the house-fly is a nuisance in all the cattle-
keeping countries. There are gad-flies and horse-flies of large size which
probe horse and man with their long probosces, draw blood, and causes
violent irritation. There is another fly which, as in British Central Africa,
inserts its eggs in the human skin, and these ^gg^^ duly ])rodnce grubs
at the bottom of a terrific boil. If unattended to, the grub when he is
sufficiently large emerges himself from the top of the boil and turns into-
a papa. He is, however, generally squeezed out by the enraged Kiu-o}iean
or native liefore he is ready to go.

Several kinds of mosquito are present, including two or more of the
Anopheles genus. This, as my readers are now aware, is the kind of
mosquito which transmits the germs of malarial fever either from the
blood of persons infected or, as I sometimes tliink, from marsh water,
mosquitoes being very fond of drinking. Midges and sand-flies are trouble-
some in some places, especially near forest and river lianks, or on moist
hillsides. One of these midges is rather large and has a black bod v.
It draws a little bead of blood to the surface as it probes the skin. This^
abominal)le little pest is particularly characteristic of West Africa, but it
is found in the District of Kusoga and in the forested regions of Uganda.
and Toro. From the waters of Lake Victoria, as from those of Nyasa,
rise up clouds of kungu flies, which are also a minute species of gnat.
The kungu fly has a soft little body, scarcely as large as that of a flea,
with gauzy wings. During the rainy season (generally) this gnat, which
lias been hatched in the broad waters of the lake, rises from the water
in clouds of millions, one might almost say billions. ^linute as the
creature is, it leaves the waters of the lake in such nundiers that its
masses are mistaken, when seen from a distance, for veritable cloudlets.
When the wind drives these creatures upon you, they will drift in through
your house or tent until they cover floor, furniture, dinner, and documents
with a thin layer of pale yellow insect atoms, not unlike the aphis in
appearance. The natives of Uganda, as of Nyasaland, collect these flies
by means of mat screens, brush them up, mash them u}) into cakes, fry
them, and eat them with gusto. It is perhaps scarcely necessary to add
that the natives of all parts of the Uganda Protectorate eat the flying
termites ("white ants") with enjoyment.

Flies of the genera Glosslmi (a genus of which the tse-tse is a member)
exist in the Uganda Protectorate. Tliey ha\e been caught there by Mr
Jackson and myself, not to mention many other collectors. Put eithei
the true tse-tse is absent from all parts of the Protectorate or it is unable
to obtain there the germs of fever which it is the agent in introducing

414 ZOOLOGY

to the blood of horses, cattle, and other beasts. This is a very fortunate
circumstance, as it removes a serious hindrance in the way of rearing live-
.stock and developing transport.

Earth-worms not dift'ering in appearance from those found in England
are present in the soil of Uganda, but the worm class is most notably
represented in the eyes of unscientitic people by two remarkable forms —
Benhamia, an earth-worm sometimes twelve inches in length, thick, and
of a bright verditer-blue ; and nematoid, or tape-worms. These last-named,
as elsewhere in Africa, develop in the intestines of mammals, birds, and
large insects, and may attain to a considerable length, perhaps two feet.
In the Nile Province, especially, the tape or Guinea worm is much
complained of b}' the natives, who take its germs into their intestines by
drinking impure water. Small leeches are found in some of the marshes,
but they are not as voracious as in tropical Asia.

It may be useful if at this stage in the book I say a few words on the
subject of the shooting of big game within the limits of the Uganda
Protectorate. The Foreign Office and the Administration of the Protectorate
are becoming more and more averse to the mere shooting of wild beasts
and birds for shooting's t^ake. The killing of beasts of prey or noxious
reptiles remains without any restrictions except in regard to the rarer cats
and the jackal. The chimpanzee and the colobus monkeys are partially
protected ; so are the rhinoceros, the zebra, and most of the antelopes ;
while the female or young elephant, the giraffe, the okapi (added sub-
sequently), the mountain zebra, wild ass, gnu, eland, buffalo, Speke's
tragelaph, and many of the rarer and more remarkable birds receive
absolute protection, and can only be killed under special licence, which
licence, it is to be presumed, would never be granted to mere trophy-
hunters, but only to scientific collectors, sent out properly accredited to
obtain a limited number of specimens for imjiortant museums which are
[)ublic institutions.

It is hoped by the British Government that tlie maintenance of these
restrictions on the needless killing of African wild creatures may result in
their preservation from extinction at the hands of the Euro]jean or the
Negro. The measure instituted may even tend towards the marked increase
within the game reserves of birds and beasts. Should their multiplication
ever tend to the overcrowding of these reserves, it will be easy enough to
thin them from time to time, and it is to be hoped that on these occasions
efforts will be made to capture living specimens for exhibition in the
zoological gardens of the world. Indeed, the sale of birds and beasts

ZOOLOGY [^r,

imder these conditions might be a not despicable item in the revenues of
the Protectorate.

The more important clauses of the Game Reirulations at ])resent in
force in the Uganda Protectorate are the following : —

Preservation of Game.

1. In these regulations : —

" Hunt, kill, or capture " means hunting, killing, or ca]ituring by any method, and
includes every attempt to kill or capture. " Hunting " includes molesting.

" Game " means any animal mentioned in any of the schedules.

" Public officer " means a European officer in the public .service of the Tganda or
East Africa Protectorates, or the superior establishment of the Uganda Piaihvay.

" Native " means any native of Africa, not Ijeing of Eiu-opean or American race
or parentage.

" Settler " means a person for the time being resident in the Protectorate not being
a public officer or a native, and includes a trader.

" Sportsman " means a person who visits the Protectorate wholly or jiartly for
sporting purposes, not being a public officer, or settler, or native.

" Collector "' means the principal civil officer in charge of a district of the
Protectorate.

General Provisions.

2. No person, unless he is authorised by a sjiecial licence in that behalf, shall hunt,
kill, or capture any of the animals mentioned in the first schedule.

3. No person, unless he is so authorised by a special licence under these regula-
tions, shall hunt, kill, or capture any animal of the kinds mentioned in the second
schedule if the animal be (a) immature, or (b) a female accompanied by its young.

4. No per.son, unless he is authorised under these regulations, shall hunt, kill, or
capture any animal mentioned in the third schedule.

5. The Commissioner may, if he thinks fit, by Proclamation, declare that the name
of any species, variety, or sex of animal (whether beast or bird), not mentioned in any
schedule hereto, shall be added to a particular schedule, or that the name of any
species or variety mentioned or included in one schedule shall be transferred to another
schedule, and, if he thinks fit, ap])ly such declaration to the whole of the Protectorate
or restrict it to any district or districts in which he thinks it expedient that the animal
should be jirotected.

6. No jjerson shall within the Protectorate sell, or purchase, or oti'er or exjiose
for sale, any ostrich eggs, or any head, horns, skin, feathers, or fiesh of any animal
mentioned in any of the schedules, unless such ostrich or animal shall have been kept
in a domesticated state, and no such person shall knowingly store, ])ack, convey, or
export any ])art of any animal which he has reason to believe has been killed or cajitured
in contravention of these regulations.

7. If any person attempts to sell or otherwise transfer within the Protectorate, or
to export from the Protectorate, any female elephant's tusk or any male elephant's tusk
weighing less than 11 lbs., or any pieces of ivory which, in the opinion of the Court,
formed i)art of a female elephant's tusk or of a male elephant's tusk under 11 lbs. in
weight, he shall be guilty of an oti'ence against these regulations, and the tusks or jiarts
of a tusk shall be confiscated by the authorities of the Protectorate.

416 ZOOLOGY

8. No person shall use any poison, or, without a special licence, any dynamite or
other ex])losive for the killing or taking of any fish.

9. Where it appears to the Commissioner that any method used for killing or
capturing animals or fish is unduly destructive, he may, by Proclamation, prohil)it
such method or prescribe the conditions under which any method may be used,
and if any person uses any. method so prohibited, or uses any method otherwise than
according to the conditions so prescribed, he shall be liable to the same penalties as for
a breach of these regulations.

10. Save as provided by these regulations, or by any Proclamation under these
regulations, any person may hunt, kill, or capture any animal not mentioned in any
of the schedules, or any fisji.

Game Reaervfii.

11. The area described in the fifth schedule hereto are hereby declared to be
game re.serves.

The Commissioner, with the ajijiroval of the Secretary of State, may, by
Proclamation, declare any other ]jortion of the Protectorate to be a game reserve,
and may define or alter the limits of any game reserve, and these regulations shall
apply to every such game reserve.

Save as provided in the regulations or by any such Proclamation, any ]jerson
who, unless he is authorised by a sj^ecial licence, hunts, kills, or captures any animal
whatever in a game reserve, or is found within a game reserve under circumstances
showing that he was unlawfully in imrsuit <if any animal, shall be guilty of a breach
of these regulations.

Licences to Europeans^ etc.

12. The following licences may be granted by the Commissioner, collector, or such
person or persons as may be authorised l)y the Commissioner, that is to say : —

(1) A sportsman's licence ;

(2) A public officer's licence ; and

( 3) A settler's licence.

Tlie following fees shall be ]iaid for licences, that is to say, for a sportsman's
licence 750 rupees, and for a public officers or a settlers licence LlO rupees.

Every licence shall be in force for one year only from the date of issue ; provided
that a public officer's licence may be granted for a single period of fourteen consecutive
days in one year on payment of a fee of 30 rui)ees.

Eveiy licence shall bear in full the name of the person to whom it is granted, the
date of issue, the period of its duration, and the signature of the Commissioner,
collector, or other person authorised to grant licences.

The applicant for a licence may be required to give security by bond or deposit,
not exceeding 2,000 rupees, for his compliance Avith these regulations, and with the
additional conditions (if any) contained in his licence.

A licence is not transferable.

Every licence must be produced when called for by any officer of the Protectorate
Government, or by any officer of the Uganda Piailway s|iecially authorised for the
purpose in writing by the Commissioner.

In granting licences under these regulations a collector, or any person authorised
to grant licences, shall observe any general or jiarticular instructions of the
Commissioner.

13. A sportsman's licence and a ])ublic officer's licence, respectively, authorise the
holder to hunt, kill, or capture animals of any of the species mentioned in the third

ZOOLOGY 417

schedule, but unless the licence otherwise ])rovi(les, not more than the number of each
species fixed by the second column of that schedule.

The holder of a si)ortsman's or public officer's licence granted under these
regulations may, by the licence, be authorised to kill or capture additional aninials
of any such species on payment of such additional fees as may be prescribed by the
Commissioner.

14. A settler's licence authorises the holder to hunt, kill, or cajjture animals of the
species and to the number mentioned in the fourth schedule only.

15. A public officer's licence shall not be granted except to a public officer, and
a settler's licence shall not be granted except to a settler ; but a sportsman's licence
may be granted to a settler.

16. When a licence similar to a public officer's licence under these regulations
has been granted in the East Africa Protectorate, that licence shall authorise the
holder to hunt, kill, or cai)ture game in the T'ganda Protectorate, in all respects as
if the licence had been granted in the Uganda Protectorate, provided that such
licence shall be first endorsed by a collector or other authorised officer of the Uganda
Protectorate. Provided, also, that any authority to kill or capture additional
animals, or any animals not permitted under the corres])onding Uganda licence, shall
be void.

17. Where it appears proper to the Commissioner for scientific or administrative
reasons, he may grant a sjjecial licence to any person to kill or cajiture animals of any
one or more species mentioned in any of the schedules, or to kill, hunt, or capture, in
a game reserve specified, beasts or birds of prey, or other animals whose presence is
detrimental to the purposes of the game reserve, or, in particular cases, to kill or
capture, as the case may be, in a game reserve, an animal or animals of any one or
more species mentioned in the schedules.

A special licence shall be subject to such conditions as to fees and security (if aiiy),
number, sex, and age of specimens, district and season for hunting, and other matters as
the Commissioner may prescribe, and in the I^ganda Railway zone, whether included
in a game reserve or not, it shall be lawful to kill or capture any beast of prey.

Where the collector, or assistant collector, or other European officer of the
Protectorate Government, in a district comprising a game reserve, is the holder of a
public officer's licence, the Commissioner may grant a special licence authorising the
officer to hunt, kill, or ca{)ture, in the game reserve, such animals as may be allowed by
his public officer's licence.

Save as aforesaid, the holder of a si)ecial licence shall be subject to the general
provisions of these regulations, and to the provisions relating to holders of licences.

18. Every licence-holder shall keep a register of the animals killed or captured by
him in the form specified in the seventh schedule.

The register shall be submitted as often as convenient, but not less frequently than
once in three months, to the nearest collector or assistant collector, who shall counter-
sign the entries up to date.

Any person authorised to grant licences may at any time call u]ion any licence-
holder to ])roduce his register for inspection.

Every person holding a sportsman's licence shall likewi.se before leaving the
Protectorate submit his register to the Deputy Commis.sioner.

If any holder of a licence fails to keep his register truly, he shall be guilty of an
offence against these regulations.

19. The Commissioner may revoke any licence when he is satisfied that the
holder has been guilty of a breach of these regulations, or of his licence, or has connived

VOL. I. 27

418 ZOOLOGY

with any other person in any such breach, or that in any matters in relation thereto he
has acted otherwise than in good faith.

20. The Commissioner may at his discretion direct that a licence under these
regulations shall be refused to any ap])licant.

21. Any person whose licence has been lost or destroyed may obtain a fresh licence
for the remainder of his term on payment of a fee not exceeding one-fifth of the fee
paid for the licence so lost or destroyed.

22. Any licence granted under these regulations does not entitle the holder to
hunt, kill, or capture any animal, or to trespass upon private })roperty without the
consent of the owner or occupier.

23. Any person who, after having killed or captured animals to the number and of
the species authorised by his licence, jiroceeds to hunt, kill, or cai)ture any animals
which he is not authorised to kill or capture, shall be guilty of a breach of these
regulations and punishable accordingly.

24. Persons in the em])loyment of holders of licences may, without licence, assist
such holders of licences in hunting animals, but shall not use firearms.

The holder of a sportsman's or jjublic officer's licence while engaged in hunting
animals mentioned in the schedules shall not be accompanied by more than one person
provided with a settler's or native's licence.

In any case of a breach of this Regulation, the licence of every licence-holder
concerned in the breach shall be liable to forfeiture, and such licence-holder shall be
guilty of an offence.

25. The C'ommissioner, or any person authorised by him in that behalf, may at
his discretion recjuire any person importing firearms or ammunition that may be used
by such person for the purposes of killing game or other animals to take out a settler's
licence under these regulations, and may refuse to allow the firearms or ammunition
to be taken from the public warehouse until such licence is taken out. 8ave as.
aforesaid, nothing in these regulations shall affect the regulations of the Uganda
Firearms Regulations, 1896.

Leaal Procedure.

28. Where any public officer of the East Africa Protectorate thinks it expedient
for the purposes of verifying the register of a licence-holder, or suspects that any person
has been guilty of a breach of these regulations, he may inspect and search, or authorise
any subordinate ofticer to inspect and search, any baggage, packages, waggons, tents,
building, or caravan belonging to or under the control of such person, or his agent, and
if the officer finds any heads, tusks, skins, or other remains of animals appearing to
have been killed, or any live animals appearing to have been captured, in contravention
of these regulations, he shall seize and take the same before a magkstrate to be dealt
with according to law.

29. Any person who hunts, kills, or captures any animal in contravention of these
regulations, or otherwise commits any breach of these regulations, shall, on conviction,
be liable to a fine which which may extend to 1,000 rupees, and, where the offence
relates to more animals than two, to a fine in respect of each animal which may extend
to 500 rupees, and in either case to imiirisonment which may extend to two months,
with or without a fine.

In all cases of conviction, any heads, horns, tusks, skins, or other remains of animals
found in the possession of the offender, or his agent, and all live animals captured in
contravention of these regulations, shall be liable to forfeiture.

ZOOLOGY 419

If tlie ])erson convicted i.s the holder of a licence, lii.s licence may he revoked by
the Court.

30. Where in any proceeding under these regulations any tine is imjiosed, the
Court may award any sum or sums not exceeding half the total fine to any informer
or informers.

SCHEDULES.*

First Schedule.
Animals not to he hunted, killed, or captured hy any 2)erson, except under Special Licence.

1. Okapi.

2. Giraffe.

.3. ^fountain or Grevy's Zebra.

4. Wild Ass.

;"). White-bearded, brindled, or any other species of Gnu {Connochoetes),

6. Eland (Taurotrar/us).

7. Buffalo.

8. Speke's Tragelaph {Li>jmotra(/m spekei).

9. Elephant (female or young).

10. Ostrich (female or young).

11. Secretary-bird.

12. Vulture (any species).
1.3. Owls (any species).

14. Whale-headed Stork {Balfeniceps rex).

15. Saddle-billed Stork {Ej:>hippiorhyncns senegalensis).

16. Crowned Crane {Balearica).

17. Marabou Stork {Leptoptilus).

18. Egrets or White Herons.

Second Schedule.

Animals, the females of ivhich are not to he hunted, killed, or captured when accotnjxinied
hy their young, and the young of which are ivjt to he hunted, killed, or captured,
except under Special Licence.

1. Rhinoceros.

2. Zebra (other than the Mountain Zebra).

3. Chevrotain {Dorcatherium).

4. All Antelopes or Gazelles not mentioned in the first schedule.

* These schedules may contain the names of some species or varieties not found, or only
occasionally found, in Uganda.

420

ZOOLOGY

Third Schedule.

Animals, limited numbers of which may he killed or captured under a Sportsman^ s or

Puhlic Officer s Licence.

Kind.

Number allowed.

9.
10.
11.
12.
13.

14.
1.5.
16.
17.

18.

Elephant (male) ....

Ehinoceros

Hippoi^otamus

Zebras (other than the Mountain Zebra)
Antelopes and Gazelles —
Class A—

Oriix (Gemsbuck or Beisa)

Hippotraffus (Sable or Roan)

Strepsiceros (Kudu) .
Colobi and other fur-Monkeys
Aard ^'arks {Orycteropus)

Serval

Cheetah {Cymjelurus)
Aard Wolf \Proteles)
Smaller Monkeys, of each species
Ostrich (male only) .
Antelopes and Gazelles —
Class B-

Any species other than those in Class A
Chevrotains (Dorcatheriicm) .
Wild Pig, of each species
Smaller Cats ....

Jackal

Chimpanzee ....

2

2

10

2

2
2
2
2
2
10
2
2
2
2

10
10
10
10
10
1

Fourth Schedule.

Animals, limited nuinhers of fhich mat/ be Jcilled or captured under a Settler s Licencp.

Kind.

Number of
Animals allowed.

1. Hippopotamus

2. (i.) Wart-hog [Phacocharus).

(ii.) Bush-pig {Potamo choerus choeropotamus)
(iii.) Senaar Swine (Sus semiarensis)

3. The following Antelopes and Gazelles only : —

(i.) Grant's Gazelle

(ii.) Thomson's GazeUe ....
(iii.) Hartebeest (Buhalis and Damaliscus)
(iv.) Impala {.Epyceros) ....
(v.) Reedbuck iCervicapra)
(vi.) Duiker (Cephalojihus)
(vii.) Klipspringer (Oreotrarfus) .
(viii.) Steinbuck iRaphiceros)
(ix.) Waterbuck (Cobus) ....
(x.) Bushbuck (Tragelaphus) .

4. Serval and smaller cats ; jackal : of each kind

10
10
10
10

5 animals in all in any
calendar month, made
up of animals of a single
species or of several.

10

ZOOLOGY

421

LISTS OF
THE FAUNA

KNOWN TO EXIST IN THE TERRITORIES F0RM1X(; THE UUANDA

PROTECTORATE.

BY OFFICIALS OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM (NATURAL HISTORY),

Under the Dieection of Professor E. Ray Lankester. F.R.S.,

WITH A FEW SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES BY SIR HARRY JOHNSTON.

List of the

MAMMALS KNOWN TO OCCUR IN THE UGANDA PROTECTORATE

By Oldfield Thomas

The following list, compiled at the request of Sir Harry John.stoii, makes no pretence
at being a critical or exhaustive one, as the mammals of I'ganda have been neither
collected nor worked out enough to make such a list i)racticable. The names here
given are those of the species obtained and presented to the British Museum by Sir
Harry himself, by Mr. F. J. Jackson, whose valuable collections have added so
immensely to our knowledge of the East African fauna, by Dr. Donaldson Smith,
Mr. G. F. Scott-Elliot, Dr. W. J. Ansorge, and others, sup])lemented by the names of
those recorded by Mr. Oscar Neumann, Dr. Matschie, and other writers on the subject.
But it must be repeated that the list is necessarily very incomplete, especially as
such knowledge as we do possess of the mammals of our East African possessions is
largely based on collections made just outside the area now treated of, so that the
greater part of the specimens obtained by Mr. Jackson, and those of Lord Delamere,
Messrs. C. S. Betton, S. L. Hinde, H. J. Mackinder, A. B. Percival, and others do not
come into the count.

Primates.

Homo sapiens cethlops (Hamites ; Pygmy, Bantu,

Nilotic, and Masai Negroes)

Anthy^ox)opiihecus troglodytes schweinftcrthi, Oigl. .

Papio doguera, Puch.

Cercocebus aterrimus, Oud.

Colobus matschiei, Neum. .

C. abyssinicus j^oliui'us, Thos. .

C. ruwenzorii, Thos. .

C. rufomitratus,Vet. .

Cer-copitheciis rufoviridis centralis, Neum.

C. schmidti, Matsch. .

C. stuhlmanni, Matsch.

C. bourtoulini, Gigl. .

C. neglectus, Schleg. .

C. otoleucus ....

Galago demidoffi, Fisch. .

\_Periodicticus potto] .

Cheiroptera.

Epomophorus schoensis, Riipp. .
£. minor, Dobs.
E. pusillus, Pet.

Authority.

Johnston, Neumann.

Smith, Johnston, Neumann.

Neumann, Johnston .

Johnston, Neumann.

Donaldson Smith.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Johnston, Neumann.

Matschie, Jackson, Johnston.

Matschie, Scott -Elliot, Johnston.

Donaldson Smith.

Smith, Neumann.

Delme Radclifl'e.

Johnston.

Whyte, Johnston.

Johnston.
Jackson, An.sorge.
Newmann.

422

ZOOLOGY

Rousettus straiuineus, Geoff.

R. collaris, III

Rhinolo] )hus • h ildeh -andti, Pet.
Hipitodderus cajf'er, Cuv. .
Megaderma frons, L.
Nycteris hispida, Schieli. .
]V. thehaica, Geoff.
Pipisttdlus tianus, Pet.
P. kuhlii fuscatus, Thos. .
Glauconycteris vanegatus, Tomes
Scotophihis nigrita, Schr. .
Yespertilio tenuipinnis, Pet.
I'aphozoiis )nauritianus, Geoff.
Nyctinomics lohatus, Thos.

RJiynchocyon stuhlmanni, Matsch.
Macroscelides 2>ulcher, Thos.
Crocidura hedenborgi, Sund. .
C. doriana, Dobs.
Chrysochloris stuhlmanni, Matsch.
Erinaceus albiventus, Wagn. .

Fells leo, Linn. .
F. pardus, Linn.
F. serval, Scliieb.
F. servalina, Og.
F. caligata, Temm. .

F. caffra ....
Cynoelurus guttatus, Herrn.
Proteles cristatus
HycEtia circuta, Erxl.
Viverra civetta, L.
Genetta victorias, Thos.

G. jxivdina, Geoff.
Nandinia binotata, Gray
Herpestes cajf'er, Gm. .

H. gracilis, Riipp.
If. galera, Erxl.
H. albicanda, Cav. .
Helogale undulata. Pet. .
Canis adustus, Sund.
C. mesomelas, Schr. .
[C. simensis .?] .
Otocyon megalotis, Desni. .
Lycaon piictus, Temm.
Lutra capensis, Schinz.
L. maculicoliis, Licht.
[Poecilogale albinucha]
[MeUivora ratel]

Insectivora

Carnivoea.

Authority.

Jackson.

Jackson, Johnston, Betton.

Johnston, Neumann.

Neumann.

Ansorge.

Elliot, Ansoi-ge.

Johnston.

Jackson.

Jackson.

Jackson.

Elliot, Ansorge.

Jackson.

Stuhlmann.
Delamere, Johnston.
Jackson.
Ansorge.
Stuhlmann.
Johnston, Neumann.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Neumann, Johnston.

Neumann, Johnston.

Neumann.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Johnston, Doggett.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Neumann.

Johnston, Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston, Neumann.

Neumann.

Jackson.

Johnston, Neumann.

Rev. F. C Smith, Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston, Neumann.

Betton.

Johnston.

Betton.

Betton.

Neumann.

Neumann.

Johnston.

Johnston.

ZOOLOGY

423

IiUDENTIA.

Anomaluriisjackmni, De Wint.
Sciurus calliurus, Buclih. .
S. multicolor, Rii])}). .
S. rufohrachintus, Waterh.
Fimisciurim hohmi, Eeicheii. .
F. Jacksoni, De Wint.

F. ockraceus, Huet. .
Xerus eri/thropus, Geotf. .
X. rutilits, Critzschra.
Grajihiiirus murinus, Desiu.

G. iHtrvus, True.
<?. smithii, Thos.
Cricetoviys ijamhianus, Waterh.
Oerhillus (Tatua) sp.
Otomys jacksoni, Thos.
Dendromys sp.

Arvicanthis abyssinicus, Iliijjp.
A. massaicus, Pagenst.
A. jnimilio dirainutus, Thos.
Mus hifpojyxnthus, Puch. .
M. arhoraiius, Pet. .
J/, uffcindw, De Wint.
M.jacksoni. De Wint.
M. hildebramlti. Pet.
Leggada nunutrides. Smith
L. inuscnloides, Tenini.
Dasymys bentleyce, Thos. .
Lophuromys ansorgei, De W^int.
L. Jlavopiinctatus, Thos. .
Lophiomys smithii, Rhoads
Tackyoryctis sj)leiu/ens ibeanus, Thos.
Pedetes cafer. Pall. .
Thryonomys sivinderenianus, Tenini
1\ gregorianus, Thos.
Hystrix gaUata, Thos.
[Lepus, sj). inc.]

Elejihas africanus, Blum. .
Diceros bicornis, Linn.
Dquus burchelli bohmi, Matsch
Frocavia Jacksoni, Thos. .
F. brucei, Gray ...
F. craivshayi, Thos. .
P. niarmota, Thos. .
mppojxjtamus amjjhibius, Linn

Ungul

Authority.

Jackson, Neumann.

Jackson.

Emin, Donaldson Smith, Neumann.

Jackson, Scott- Elliot.

Jackson, Ansorge, Neumann.

Jackson.

Ansorge.

Ansorge, Neumann.

Jackson.

Jackson.

Rev. F. C. Smith.

Johnston.

Neumann.

Jackson.

Ansorge, Johnston, Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston, Neumann.

Jackson, Ansorge.

Jackson.

Jack-son, An.sorge.

Johnston.

Jack-son, Ansorge, Neumann.

Jackson.

Ansorge.

Johnston, Neumann.

Ansorge.

Jackson.

Ansorge.

Jackson, Ansorge.

Jackson.

Ansorge, Neumann.

Johnston, Neumann.

Donaldson Smith.

Jackson.

Johnston.

Johnston.*

Johnston, Neumann.

Jackson.

Neumann.

Johnston.

Johnston.

* Hares of perhaps three species are common throughout Uganda, but no specimens have
jet been identified. — H. H. J.

424

ZOOLOGY

Phacochceriis cBthiopkus, Sund.
[Potamochoerus choerajyotatn iis]
[P. penicillatus]
Giraffa camelopardalis, Linn.
Okapia johnstoni, Sclat. .
Pubalis ceqidnoctialis, Blytli (centr
Bubal is jackscni, Thos.

B. cokei, Giinth.
Damaliscus jimela, Matsch .
D. tiang, Hengl.
Cephalophus Johnston i, Thos.

C. rubiius, Thos.
C. cequatorialis, Matsch. .
C. (/rimmii, Linn.
C. ahyssinims, Riipp.
Oreotragus oreotragus, Zimni.
Ourebia montana, Riipp. .
0. haggardi, Thos. .
Raphiceros netimanni, Matsch.
Madoqtia kirkii, Giinth. .
Cobus defassa, Riipp.
C. thomasi, Scl.

C. leucotis ....

Cervicapra arundinum, Bodd.

C. redunca rvardi, Thos. .

C . fidvorufula chanleri, Rothsch.

Oryx beisa

Hijjpotragus equinns

H. bakeri ....

^Epyceros melampus, I/icht.

Gazella grantii, Brooke .

G- grantii notata, Thos. .

G. gi'antii brightii, Thos. .

G. thofnsoni, Giinth. .

Tragelajyhus decula, Riipp.

T. scriptus, Pall.

T. sc7-iptus bor, Hengl.

T. euryceros

Limnotragus spekei, Scl. .

Taurotragus oryx livingstonei, Scl.
Strepsice^-os kiidu
[Bos cajfh-] ....
\_Bos pjumilus] ....
\_Bos (.equinoctialis] .

Manis trictispis, Raf.
Orycteropm nfer, Pall.

lis, C

ray)

Edentata.

Authority.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Johnston, Neumann.

Johnston.

Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston, Neumann.

Johnston.

Jackson, Neumann.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Johnston.

Scott-Elliot, Jackson, Johnston.

Jackson, Johnston.

Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston.

Donaldson Smith.

Jackson, Johnston.

Jackson, Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston, Neumann.

Lugard, Scott-Elliot, Jackson,,
Johnston.

Delme Radcliffe, E. N. Buxton.

Neumann.

Jackson, Johnston.

Donaldson Smith.

Harold Baker, Doggett (Baringo).

Johnston.

Johnston, Delme Radclift'e.

Lugard, Jackson, Johnston.

Jackson, Johnston, Betton.

A. H. Neumann, Ferguson.

Bright, Ferguson, Donaldson Smith.

Jackson, Neumann.

Neumann.

Neumann.

Donaldson Smith.

F. W. Isaac.

Speke, Jackson, Johnston, Neu-
mann.

Jackson.

Doggett, Johnston.

Johnston, Jackson.

.Johnston

Johnston

Jackson, Johnston.
Johnston.

ZOOLOGY 425

A Tentativk List oi' the

BIRDS OF THE UGANDA PKUTECToKATP:.

By Charles Chlbb.

ORDER I. STRUTHIONIFORMES.

Family hTRUTHioMD.E.

1. ritruthio massaiciis, Xeuni.

:2. .S'. camehis, Linn. [The North African ostrich extends southward to Karamqjo
and even to near Baringo, judging from two live specimens seen by me in the
possession of an Arab caravan, and one killed by Doggett near Baringo. — H. H. J.]

ORDER II. GALLIFORMES.

Sub-order Phasiani.

Family rHASiANiDA".

3. Francolimis htihhardi, Grant.

4. F. strejjtophorus, Grant.

5. F. granti, Hartl.

6. F. kikui/iiensis. Grant.

7. F. elgonensis. Grant.

8. F. dappertoni , Childr.

9. F. {/edgei, Grant.

10. F. icterorhynchus, Heugl.

11. F. hildehrandti, Cab.

12. F. schuetti, Cab.

13. F. jacksoni, i.TViint.

14. Pternistes cranchi (Leach).

15. P. rufopicUis, Reichen.

16. Cottirnix coturnix (Linn.).

17. C. delegorguei, Deleg.

18. Excalfactoria adansoni (Yerr.).

19. Ptilopachys fuscus (YieilLl

20. P.Jlorencice, Grant.

Family NuMiDiD.i:.

21. Xuiiiida reichenou'i. Grant.

22. X. ansorgei, Hartert.

23. X. intermedia, Neum.

24. X. ptilorhyncha, Licht.

25. Guttera pucherani (Hartl.).

426 ZOOLOGY

OBDEB. III. HEMIFODII.

Family Turxicid.!:.

26. Turnix lepurana (Smith).

OBDEB IV. FTEBOCLIDIDIFOBMES.

Family Pteroclidid.e.

27. PterocUdurus exustus (Temni.).

28. Pteroclis lichtensteijii, Temm.

29. P. quadricinctus, Temm.

OBDEB V. COLUMBIFOBMES.

Family TEEEoxiD-i;.

30. Vinago ivaalia (Gm.).

31. V. nudirostris, Swains.

32. Columha guinea, Linn.

33. C. longirostris, Eeichen.

34. C. arqioatrix, Temm.

3.5. Turturoena shaiyei, Salvad.

Family Columbid,*:.

Family Peristeeidje.

36. Turtur lugens (Riipp.).

37. ^ilreptopelm semitorquata (Riipp.).

38. S. daviarensis (Finsch k Hartl.).

39. S. amhigvxi (Bocage).

40. Stigmatopelia senegalensis (Linn.).
4L (Eiui cajtensis (Linn.).

42. Ti/?npanistria tumpanistrla (Temm. it Knip.).

43. Chalcopdia afra (Linn.).

OBDEB VII. BALLIFOBMES.

Family Rallid.^.

44. Crecopsis egregia (Peters).

45. Crex crex (Linn.).

46. Liinnocorax nigra (Gm.).

47. Zapornia j)arva (Scop.).

48. Sarothrura jmlckra (J. E. Gray).

49. Gallinula chloropus (Linn.).
.50. Prn^pAyriola alleni (Thomps.).

51. Porphyrio jyjrphyrio (Linn.).

52. Ftdica cristaVt, Gm.

ZOOLOGY i27

ORDER VIII. PODICEPEDIDIFORMES.

Family roDicirEDiD.K.
-53. Lophijuthijia cristata (Linn.).

54. Podicipes cajierisis, Salvad.

ORDER XIV. LARIFORMES.

Family Lakio.+:.

55. Hijdrocheliilon leuco/itera (Meisn. ct Scbinz).
o6. H. nigra (Linn.).

57. Gelochelidon amjlica (Mont.).

58. Rh)jnchoi>sfavirostris, Yieill.

59. Laru.s fuscus, Linn.

■60. L. cirrhocephalu.'i, A'ieill.

ORDER XV. CHARADRIIFORMES.

Family Charadriid.e.

^L Defilippia crassirosti^s (De Fil.).

62. Lohivanellits senegallus (Linn.).

^3. L. lateralis (Smith).

64. Hoplopterus spntiosm (Linn.).

■65. Stepthanihyx coronata (^Bodd.).

66. S. iiwrnatus (Swains.).

•67. Ochthodromiis asiaficus (Pall.).

68. OjL'i/echus tricollaris (Vieilj.).

^9. ^gialitis hiaticola (Linn.).

70. ^E. duhia (Scop.).

7L ^E. venusta (Fisch. it Eeichen.).

72. ^E. varia (Vieill.).

7.3. Himantopus hiiiiantopus (Linn.).

74. Totanus stagnafilis, Bechst.

75. Helodromas ochropus (Linn.).

76. Tringoides hypoleucus (Linn.).

77. Glottis nehularius (Ounn.).

78. Rhyacophilus glareola (Gm.).

79. Pavoncella pugmix {\Am\.).

80. Calidris arenaria (Linn.).
-81. Limonites minuta (Leisl.).

82. Ancylochilus suharquntus (Giild.).

83. Gallinago major (Gm.).

84. G. nigrijieimis, Bp.

-85. Rostratula caj>eusis (Linn.).

Family Fakrid.*:.

■86. Actopihilus africanus (Gm.).
■87. Micro2>arra capensis (Smith).

428 ZOOLOGY

Family Cursoriid.r

88. Ortyxelus meiffreni., Vieill.

89. Pluvianus ceriyptius (Linn.).

Family Glareolid.*:.

90. Glareola pratinaAa (Linn.).

91. Galactochrysea emini (Shelley).

92. G. nuchalis (Gray).

Family Gi^dicnemid.t.

93. CEdicnenius sener/alensis, Swains.

94. CE. ver9/iictdatus, Cab.

95. (E. capensis, Licht.

96. G^. affinis. Pai]ip.

Family Otidid^.

97. Lissotis lovati. Grant.

98. L. hartlauhi (Heugl.).

99. Trachelotis canicollis (Reichen.).

ORDER XVIII. ARDEIFORMES.

Family Ibidid.*;.

100. Ihis cethiopica (I>ath.).

101. Hagadashia hagidash (Lath.).

102. Plegadisfalcinell us (Linn.).

Family Plataleid^.

103. PlataUa minor, Tenim. k Schl.

Family Ciconiid.e.

104. Pseudotantcdus this (Linn.).

105. Ahdimia ahdimi (Licht.).

106. Dissoiira ejnscopvs (Bodd.).

107. Cic(yaia ciconia (Linn.).

108. Aiuistaiuus lameliigerics, Temm.

109. Ephippiorhynchns senegalensis (Shaw).

110. Lepjtoptilus crumeniferus (Less.).

Family ScopiDJi.

111. Scopus umbretta, Gni.

Family Bal^nicipitid.e.

112. Balceniceps rex, Gould.

ZOOLOGY 429

Family Ardkid^.

113. Pyrrherodiaa jmvjmrea (Linn.).

114. Ardea goliath, Cretzschin.

115. A. vielanocephala, Vig. k Childr.

116. Mcmfhoyx hradiyrhyncha (Brehni).

117. Herodiaa alba (Linn.).

118. Melanophoi/x ardesiaca (Wagl.).

119. Garzetta garzetta (Linn.).

120. Jhdorides atricajnlla (Afzel.).

121. ErjithrocnuH rujiventri.s (Sundev.).

122. Buhidcus /ueidm (liafin.).

123. Ardeola ndloides (Seop. ).

124. Ardetta payed (Hart).).

125. Arderrallus sturmi (Wagl.).

OBDEB XIX. FHCENICOFTEBIFOBMES.

Family rH(i;NKO]'TERii),i'.

126. Fhoenicopterus roseus, Pall.

127. Phoenicoiuus minor (Cxeoffr.).

OBDER XXI. ANSEBIFOBMES.

Family Anatid.k.

128. Plectropterus gaiahensis (Linn.).

129. Sarcidiornis vielannnota (Penn.).

130. Nettopus awntus (Bodd.).

131. Cyanochen cyanopteruii (Riipp.).

132. Dendrocygna vidua (Linn.).

133. B.fulva (Gm.).

134. Alojjochen cegyptiacus (Linn.).

135. Anas undulata, Duboi.s.

136. Nettium jnmctatiim (Burcli.).

137. N. capense ((iin.).

138. Poecilonetta eriithrorhyncha ((j!ni.).

139. Erismatura maccoa (Sniitli).

OBDEB XXIV. FELECANIFOBMES.

FaMI L V 1'H ALACROIOK All U.Ii.

140. Phalacrocorax lucid us (Licht.).

141. P. luguhris, Reichen.

142. /■'. africanus (Gm.).

Family Plotid-e.

143. Plotns rufus, Dand.

Family Pelicanid.e.

144. Pelecanus rufescens, GnL

430 ZOOLOGY

ORDER XXVI. ACCIPITRIPORMES.

Family Serpentariid^.
145. Serpentarius serpentnrius (Miill.).

Family Vulturid.e.

46. Pseu(Io(/>/jis a/ricanus (Salvad.).

47. Zophogi/ps occijntalis (Burch.).

48. Neophron per cnopter%(,s (Linn.).

49. Necrosyrtes raonachus (Temni.).

Family Falconid.e.

50. Fol jjboroides ti/j>icHS, Smith.

51. CVrcMS^JJ/f/arr/?/.*! (Linn.).

52. C. certiginosus (Linn.).

53. Melierax j^olyzomis (Riipp.).

54. M. gahar (Dand.).

55. M. niger (Vieill.).

56. Astur tachiro (Dand.).

57. A. urulidiventer {}\ui>p.).

58. A. sjihenurus (Fiii])p.).

59. A. polyzonoiJes (Smith).

60. Accipiter melanoleucus, Smith.

61. Buteo augur, Riipj).

62. B. auguralis, Salvad.

63. B. desertorum (Dand.).

64. Aquila rapax (Temni.).

65. A. wahlhergi, Sundev.

66. Butalmai'tus spilogasta (Bp.).

67. S'jnzaetus coronatus (Linn.).

68. Lophonetus occipitalis (Dand.).

69. Asturimda monogrmnmica (Temni.).

70. Circaetus cinerascens, Miill.

71. C cinereus, Vieill.

72. Btitastur ruji])enms (Sundev.).

73. Helotarsus ecaudatus (Dand.).

74. H(diaeUis vocifer (Dand.).

75. Milvus (egyptius (Gm.).

76. M. korschim (Gm.).

77. Elanus ctei-ideus (Desp.).

78. Maclnjerhamphuit, anderssoni (Gurney).

79. Baza emini, Reichen.

80. Poliohierax semito7'quatus (Smith).

81. Falco tanypterun, Schl.

82. F. subbuteo, Linn.

83. F. cuvieri, Smith.

84. F. rujjcollis. Swains.

85. Cerchneis tinniinculus (Linn.).

86. C. alopex (Heugl.).

87. C. naiinianni (Fleisch).

88. Dissodectes ardesiacus (Bonn. & Vieill.).

ZOOLOGY 431

ORDER XXVIII. PSITTACIFORMES.

Family Psittacid.k.

189. Pijeocephalm masmicus, Fischer it Reichen.

190. F. mei/eri, Cretz.scli.

191. F. saturating, Sharpe.

192. Psittacus (vithacuH, Linn.

193. Fakeornis docilis (Vieill.).

194. Agapornis ptiUaria (Linn.).

195. A.fischeri, Reichen.
19G. A. permnata, Reichen.

ORDER XXVII. STRIGIFORMES.

Family Bubonid^.

197. Ado nisuella (Dand.).

198. Bubo maculosus (Vieill.).

199. B. cinerascens, Guer.

200. B. lactem (Temni.).

201. Scops capensis, Smith.

202. S. Uganda} (Neum.).

203. S. leucotis (Temm.).

204. Syrniwn michde, .Sharpe.

205. Glaucidimn perlatum (Vieill.).

206. G. castaneur/i (Reichen.).

207. Strix maculata, Brehm.

ORDER XXIX. CORACIIFORMES.

Family CoRAciiD.i;.

208. Coraclas ahi/ssinicus, Bodcl.

209. C. ncevius, Dand.

210. Etirystomus rufobucca/is, Reichen.

Family Alcedinid.e.

211. Ceryle rudis (Linn.).

212. C. sharpei, Gould.

213. Cori/thornis ct/anostir/ma (Riipi*.).

214. Ispidina pnsta (Bodd.).

215. Halcyon senegalensis (Linn.).

216. //. cyanoleucus (Vieill.).

217. //. semiccertdeus (Forsk.).

218. H. ckelicutensis (Stanl.).

Family BucEROxiih*:.

219. Bucorax cajfh; Bocage.

220. Ceratogymna atrata (Temni.).

221. Lo2)hoceros fasciata (Shaw).

432 ZOOLOGY

222. Lophoceros nasuttis (Linn.).

223. L. epirhinus (Sundev.).

224. L. erythrorhynchus (Temm.).

225. L. melanoleucus (Liclit.).

226. L.jacksoni, Grant.

227. Bycanistes suhquadratus, Cab.

Family Upupid^.

228. Upupa epops, Linn.

229. U. africana, Beclist.

Family Irrisorid^.

230. Irrisor er]ithrorhynchus (Lath.).

231. Ljacksoni, Shari)e.

232. Scoptelus notatus, Salvin.

233. Rhinojiomastus cabanisi (De Fil.).

Family Meropid^.

234. Melittophar/us cyanostictus, Cab.

235. M. variegatus (VieilL).

236. M. oreohates, Sbari)e.

237. M. frcBiiatus {R-AYiX.).

238. Jferops apiaster, Linn.

239. M. persicus, Pall.

240. J/, superciliosus, Linn.

241. 31. nubicus, Gm.

242. M. albicollis, Vieill.

Family Caprimulgidj?:.

243. Scotornis climacurus (Vieill.).

244. Cosrnetornis vexillarius (Gould).

245. Caprimidgusfossei, Hartl.

246. C. clarus, Eeichen.

247. C. inornatus, Heugl.

248. C. poHocepJinlus, Eiijjp.

249. C. europceus, Linn.

250. C donahhoni, Sharpe.

Family Cypselid.e.

251. Cypselus cequatoriaUa (IMiill.).

252. C. niansce (Reichen.).

253. C. shelleyi, 8alvad.

254. C. streubeli (Hartl.).

255. C. affinis (J. E. Gray).

256. TachornU jmruus (Licht.).

Family Colud^

257. Colius leiicotts, Eiipj).

258. C. berlepschi, Hartert.

259. C. affinis, Shelley.

ZOOLOGY 433

Family TROGOxiDiE.
260 Hapaloderma wiriim (Stepli.).

261. Heterotrorjon vittatum (Shelley).

ORDER XXX. COCCYGES.

Family Mi s(.i'h.v(,ii).+;.

262. Turaeus leucolojihus, Heugl.

263. T. hartlauhi (Fischer it Reichen).

264. GalUrex johnstoni , Sharpe.

260. MumpJiaga rosi^a, Gould.
266. Corythckola cristata {\\q\\\.).

261. Schizorhis leucogaster, Riipp.

268. <S'. zonura, Riipp.

269. Gymnoschizorhis leopoldi (Shelley).

Family Cuculid.e.

270. Coccystes glamkn-iiis (Linn.).

271. C. Jacob in us ( Bodd. ).

272. C. caffer (Licht.).

273. Pachycoccyx valiJus (Reichen.).

274. Cuculus gularis, Steph.

275. 0. canorus, Linn.

276. C. heiuflini, Cab.

277. C. soliturim, Steph.

278. C. (lahonensis, Lafr.

279. C. clamosus. Lath.

280. Jletallococcyx smaragdineus (Swains.).

281. Chrysococcyx Maasi (Staph.).

282. C. ciqyrem (Bodd.).

283. Centropus Jischeri, Reichen.

284. C. monachm, Riipp.

285. C superciliostis, Hempr. & Ehr.

286. Centhmochares intemedius, Sharpe.

ORDER XXXII. SCANSORES.

Family Indkatokid-I'.

287. Indicator indicator (Gm.).

288. /. vaHegatus, Less.

289. /. minor, Steph.

290. /. pygmceiis, Reichen.

291. /. exilis (Cass.).

292. /. eniini, Shelley.

Family Capitoxid.*:.

293. Erythrobucco rolleti (De Fil.).

294. Lybius cequo.tor talis (Shelley).

295. L. leucocephalus (De FiLV
VOL. I.

434 ZOOLOGY

296. Lybitcs abyssinicus (Lath.)

297. L. rulmfacies (Reichen.).

298. Tricholaema ansorgel, Shelley.

299. T. lachrymosum, Cab.

300. T. stigmatothorax, Cab.

301. T. diadematum (Heugl.).

302. T 7)iassaicu)n (Reichen.).

303. Gymnohucco cinereiceps. Sharjie.

304. Barhatida ugaiulce, Eeichen.

305. B. centralis, Reichen.

306. B.jacksoni, Sharps.

307. B. leucokema, J. k E. Verr.

308. B. leucomystax, Sharpe.

309. B. stellata (.lard, k Eraser).

310. Trachyjihoniis versicolor, Hartl.

311. T. arnawU (Des Murs).

312. TrachyJcemus elgonensis (Sharpe).

Family Picid.*;.

313. Cam2)othera mdnca (Cxm.).

314. C. nauviani, Reichen.

315. C. halia, Heugl.

316. C. mactdosa (Valenc).

317. C. 2)ennista (Reichen.).

318. C. tceniolcema (Reichen. & Neum.).

319. Dendropicus hartlauhi, !Malh.

320. D. nyansce (Neum.).

321. D. tropicalis, Reichen.

322. D. ■poeciloloeinus, Reichen.

323. D. lafresnayi, ^Slalh.

324. D. sharpei, Oust.

325. Thipias schoensis, Ru])}).

326. Jyngipicus ohsoletus (Wagl.).

327. .7. ingens, Hartert.

328. Mesopicus centralis, Reichen.

329. Jipix rnficollis, Wagl.

ORDER XXXVI. FASSERIFOBMES.

Family Hirundinid.e.

330. Clivicola riparia (Linn. ).

331. C. cincta (Bodd.).

332. C. minor (Cab.).

33.3. Ptyonoprogue rufigida (Fischer it Reichen.).

334. Hirunda rustica, Linn.

335. H. arcticincta, Sharpe.

336. H. (lethiopica, Blanf.

337. H. griseopyga, Sundev.

338. //. puella, Temm. it Schl.

ZOOLOGY 435

339. Iliiunda emini, Pieichen.

340. //. gordonl, Jard.

341. //. senegalenda, Linn.

342. //. monteiri, Hartl.

343. Psalidoprocne orieittalis, Rcichen.

344. P. alhiceps, Sclater.

Family Muscicapid.k.

345. Alseonax murina, Fischer k Reichen.

346. A. pumila, Reichen.

347. Jfusdcapa grisola, Linn.

348. M. iufulata, Hartl.

349. 3£. tovHcnsis, Hartert.

350. Pedilnrhj/nchus stuhlmanni, Reichen.

351. Dioptrornis Jischeri, Reichen.

352. Melcenoi-nis pammdcena (Stan!.).

353. J/, tropicalts, Cab.

354. Brfuli/orms (jrlAca, Reichen.

355. B. iMllida (Miill.).

356. B mbalaris, Sharj)e.

357. B. pimiila, Sharpe.

358. B. minor, Heugl.

359. Stizorhina fraseri (8trickl.).

360. Empidornis kavirondensis (Neum.).

361. Hj/lwtafldvigastra, Swains.

362. Pogonocichla orientalis, Fischer & Reichen.

363. P. intensa, Sharpe.

364. Liojjtilus ahyssinicus (Riipp.).

365. Parisoma j^lumbeum (Hartl.).

366. P.jacksoni, Sharpe.

367. Chloropeta massaica, Fischer & Reichen.

368. Batis senegalensis (Linn.).

369. B. orientalis (Heugl.).

370. Plati/stira <dhifro)i>i, Sharpe.

371. P. cijariea Oliill).

372. P.jacksoni, Sharpe.

373. Bias musicus (Vieill.).

374. Megahias atrialatus (Cass.).

375. Smitliornis caj^ensis (Smith).

376. Artomyiasfidiginosd, J. & E. Verr.

377. Trochocercus alhonotatus, Sharpe.

378. Terpsiphone cristata (Gm.)

379. T. rujiventris (Swains.).

380. T. emini, Reichen.

381. Elminia teresiti, Antin.

382. Cryptolopha mackenziana, Sharpe.

Family Campophagidje.

383. Graucalus purus, Sharpe.

384. G. pectoralis, Jard. & Selb,

436

ZOOLOGY

385. Campophaffa phoenicea (Lath.).

386. C. hartlauhi (Salvad.).

387. C. qtiiscalimi (Finsch).

Family PYCNONOTiD.t

388.
389.
390.
391.
392.
393.
394.
395.
396.
397.
398.
399.
400.
401.
402.
403.
404.
405.
406.

Criniger veri'eattxi, Sharpe.

C. cahanisi, Sharpe.

Bleda pallidigula (Sharpe).

B. flavkfida ; Cab.).

B. shelleyi (Neum.).

B. knkumegre (Sharpe).

B. kikuj/i(£nsis (Sharpe).

B. orientalis (Hartl.).

Androjxidus icetisshnvs, Sharpe.

Eurillas virens (Cass.).

E. eiujemus (Eeichen.).

Stelgidillas gracilirostris (Strickl. ).

*S'. gracilis (Cab.).

Phi/llostrophus strepitans, Eeichen.

P. rufescens, Hartl.

P. placidiis, Shelley.

Pycnonotus minm-, Heugl.

P. dodsoni, Sharpe.

P. lai/ardi, (jrurney.

Family TiMELnD.iL

407. Argya rubiginosa, Riipp.

408. A. riifula, Heugl.

409. A. amaurura, Pelz.

410. Tnrdinus jacksoni, Sharjje.

411. Ptyrticus turdinus, Hartl.

412. Craterojius plebeius, Riipp.

413. C. buxtoni, Sharpe.

414. C. shatyei, Reichen.

415. C. teTiebrosics, Hartl.

Family Turdid-e.

416. Geocichla x>iaggiif: (Bour.).

417. Turdus j)elios, Bp.

418. T. bocagei, Cab.

419. Jlerida elgonensis, Sharpe.

420. CicMadusa guttata, Heugl.

421. Cossypha iolcema, Reichen.

422. C. natalensis, Smith.

423. C. jx>lio2ytera, Reichen.

424. C subrufescens, Bocage.

425. C. heuglini, Hartl.

426. C. melaiuj7wta (Cab.).

427. C. verticalis, Hartl.

428. Eryihropygia ruficamla, Sharpe.

ZOOLOGY 437

429. Eriithroi>]i<jia luirtlauM^ Reicheil.

430. Callene jnjrrhoptera, Reichen. it Neuin.

431. ThnmmiUea subt-njipennis, Reichen.

432. T. levaillanti (Reichen.).

433. T. shelleyi, Sharpe.

434. Pentholcea clericalis, Hartl.

435. P. bauds, Hartl.

436. Pinarochroa hi/fxtspodia, Shelley.

437. Pratincola ruhicohi (Linn.).

438. P. emmce, Hartl.

439. P. axillaris, Shelley.

440. P. rubftra (Linn.)

44L Monticola rufocinerea (Riipp.).

442. Ruticilla phcenicurics (Linn.).

443. Mi/rmecocichla cryptoleuca, Sharpe.

444. Saxicola oenanthe (Linn.).

445. S. isahellina (Riipp.).

446. S. pleshanlia (Lepsch.).

447. S. schaloiri, Sharpe.

448. .S'. falkemteini. Cab.

449. Campicola albonotata (Neum.).

Family Sylviidj:.

450. Luscinia philomela (Bechst.).

451. Sylvia hortensis, Bechst.

452. S. atricapilla (Linn.).

453. Phylloscopm trochilus (Linn.).

454. Hypolais jxillida (Hempr. & Ehr.).

455. Acrocephalm 2)hrag)nitis (Bechst.).

456. A. turdoides (Meyer).

457. A. jxilustris (Bechst.).

458. A. streperus (Yieill).

459. A. bceticatus (Yieill.).

460. BradyjAerus cinmimomexis (Riipp.).

461. Schoenicola apicalis (Cab.).

462. Calamocichla leptorhyncha (Fischer ct Reichen.).

463. Cjacksoni, Neum.

464. Calatnonastes simplex (Cab.).

465. Eminia lejnda, Hartl.

466. Ajmlis pulchra, Sharpe.

467. A. jiorphyrohema (Reichen. it Xeum.).

468. Euprinodes cinereuif, Sharpe.

469. E. f/olzi (Fischer it Reichen.).

470. E. mpiatoralis, Xemn.

471. Dryodromas jacksoni, Sharpe.

472. Dfymocichla incana, Hartl.

473. Phyllolais pidchella (Cretzschm.).

474. Sylviella brachyura (Lafr.).

475. S. jacksoni, Sharpe.

476. .S'. leucophrys, Shar])e.

438 ZOOLOGY

477. Sylvielld huraht, Jackson.

478. Eremomela griseofl/iva (Heugl.)

479. E. hypoxantha, Pelz.

480. E. eiegans (Heugl.).

481. E.Jktvotorqtmta (Hartl.).

482. Camaro])tera hrevicaiulata (Cretzsclim.).

483. C. griseoviridis (Miill.).

484. Hylia jyt'O-sina (Cass.).

485. Prinia mystacea, Riipp.

486. Burnesia reichenoivi, Hartl.

487. B. melan-ops, Eeichen. it Neum.

488. Orthotoraus erythropterus (Jard.).

489. Melocichla mentalis (Fraser).

490. J/, orientalis, SliaqDe.

491. Cisticola emini, Eeichen.

492. C. lateralis (Fraser).

493. C. cinei-ascens (Heugl.).

494. C. erythrops (Hartl.).

495. C.Jischeri,, Eeichen.

496. C rufa (Fraser).

497. C ■ ferruffinea (Hartl.).

498. C. hartlauhi, Sharpe.

499. C- cisticola (Temm.).

500. C- terrestris (Smith).

501. C- hirulei, Sharpe.

502. C. tinniem (Licht.).

503. C. nuchalis, Eeichen.

504. C. amhigua, Sharpe.

505. C. strangei (Fraser).

506. C. luguhris (Eiipp.).

507. C- suhruficajnlla (Smith).

508. C- cheniami (Smith ).
509 C 2»'inioides, Xeum.

510. 6'. htmteri, Shelley.

511. C. chuhhi, Sharpe.

Family Prionopid^.

512. Prionopjs cristatiis, Eiipp.

513. P. poliolophus, Fischer & Eeichen.

514. Sigmodus graculinus (Cab.).

515. Eurocephalus ruepdU., Bp.

516. Corvinella affinis, Heugl.

517. Lanitis fucmeraiis, Stanl.

518. L. excuhitorins, Des Murs.

519. L. caiuJatus, Cab.

520. L. mackiniwni, Sharjje.

521. L. minor ^ Gm.

522. L. dorsalis, Cab.

523. L. antinoi'i, Salvad.

Family Laxiid^.

ZOOLOGY 439

524. Laniits jKirailoxus, Kiehni.

525. L. (juhernator, Haiti.

526. L. isabellinnK, Heinj)!-.

527. Nilans nfer (Lath.).

528. X. nigntem/ioralis, Keicheii.

529. Liiuirius luehderi, Reicheii.

530. L. (jethio2>icus (Gni.).

531. L. major, Haiti.

532. L. nkiernmus (Heichen.).

533. L.funehris (}i?iXi\.).

534. Dri/scopus iiamJensis, Sharpe.

535. D.jacksoni, Sharpe.

536. D. cinerdscens, Hartl.

537. D. malzacii, Heugl.

538. D. nyansce, Neuui.

539. D. sicahelicus, Xeuni.

540. Antichromus minutm (Hartl.).

541. Telephonus senegalus. (Linn.).

542. T. hlanfordi, Sharpe.

543. T. minor, Eeichen.

544. T. emini, Eeichen.

545. Malacanotus hlanchoti (Steph.).

546. M. dohertiji, Rothsch.

547. M. sidphureipectus (Less.).

548. Nicator chloris (Less.).

Family Parid-e.

549. Parus leucojiterus, Swains.

550. P. nigricinereiis, Jackson.

551. P. barako', Jackson.

552. P. albiventris, Shelley.

553. Anthoscopus parmdus (Heugl.).

554. A. muscuius (Hartl.).

Family Xectariniid^.

555. Hedydipna jjlatura (Yieill.).

556. Drepjaiwrhynchus rekhenowi, Sharpe.

557. Xectarinia ctnigularis, Sharpe.

558. N. kilimensis, Shelley.

559. K. jndchella {\ Awn.).

560. Cinnyris cuprea (Shaw).

561. C. superbtis (Shaw).

562. C. erythrocerias (Heugl.).

563. C. stmhelicus, Reichen.

564. C. falkensteini, Fischer tt Eeichen.

565. C. ansorgei, Hartert.

566. C. cidoropygid (Jard.).

567. C. mediocris, Shelley.

568. C. orphogastra, Reichen.

569. 6'. reichenoivi, Sharpe.

570. Chalcomitra acik (Antinori).

440 ZOOLOGY

571. Clialcomitra ceqimtoralis (Reichen.).
r)72. C. incestimata (Hartert).

573. C. hunteri (Shelley).

574. C. kirki (Shelley).

575. C. kalckrenthi (Cab.).

576. C. doggeUi (Shaipe).

577. C. angolensis (Less.).

578. Cyancmiitra obscura (.Jard.).

579. C. ragazzii (Salvad.).

580. C. cyanoloema (.Jard.).

581. C. verticalis (Lath.).

582. C. vh'idisplendens (Reichen.).

583. Anthothreptes orientalis (Haiti.).

584. A. hypodila (Jard.).

585. A. tephroloima (Jard. i^t Fra.ser).

Family Zostekopid.e.

586. Zoster ops senegalensis, Bp.

587. Z. kikuyuensis, Sharjie.

588. Z. stuhlmanni, Reichen.

589. Z. jacksoni, Neuni.

Family Certhiici:.

590. Sal2J07"nis salvadorii (Bocage).

Family Motacillid.e.

591. Motacilla vidua, Sundev.

592. M. alba, Linn.

593. M. ca2)ensis, Linn.

594. M. melanojje. Pall.

595. M. campestris, Pall.

596. M. flava, Linn.

597. M. cinereicnpilla, Savi.

598. AI. feldeggi, Micah.

599. Anthus trivialis (Linn.).

600. A. latistriatus, Jackson.

601. A. gouldi, Fraser.

602. A. nicholsoni, Sharpe.

603. A. rufulus, Vieill.

604. A. cervimis (Pall.).

605. Macronyx croceus (Vieill.).

606. M. ivintoni, Sharpe.

Family Alaudid.e.

607. Mirafra athi, Hartert.

608. M.fischer'i, Reichen.

609. M. apiata (Vieill.).

610. M. bucolica, Hartl.

611. Heliocorys modesta (Hengl.).

612. Tephrocorys cinerea (Gm.).

613. Pyrrhtdanda leucotis (Stanl.).

614. P. dgnata. Oust.

ZOOLOGY 441

Family FRiNoiLLiDiE.

615. Emberiza flaviventris (Vieill.).

616. E. orientalis, Shelley.

617. Fringillaria tahapisi (Smith).

618. F. sejitemntriata (Riipp.).

619. F. saturatior, Sharpe.

620. Chrysomitris mdano])s (Heugl.).

621. Petronia 2)]/ir/ita (Heugl.).

622. Passer rujicmctus^ Fischer & Reichen.

623. P. shelleyi, Sharpe.

624. P. nr/aiidce, Reichen.

625. P. (jongonensis. Oust.

626. Sorella emini, Hartl.

627. Poliosjyiza reichardi, Reichen.

628. Serinus flavivirtex (Blanf.).

629. S. sharpei, Neum.

6.30. S. flaviventris (Swain.s.).

631. S. i mherbis {Cah.}.

632. .S'. icterus (Bonn, tt Yieill.).
63.3. ,S'. barhatus (Heugl.).

634. S. ca/iistratus (Finsch).

635. ,S'. afiinis (Richni.).
6.36. *S'. alhifrotis (Sharpe).
637. S. leucoiyygitis (Sundev.).

6.38. S. reichenowi, Salvad.

6.39. (S*. aiKjolensis (Gni.).

640. .S'. (Jorsostriatus (Reichen.).

Family Ploceid^.

641. Vidua ly^'inciixdis (Gni.).

642. Steganwa paradisea (Linn.).

643. Chera progne (Bodd.).

644. Penthetria ardens (Bodd.).

645. P. eqties (Hartl.).

646. Penthetriopsis macrums (Gm.).

647. P. soror (Reichen.).

648. P. humeralis, Sharpe.

649. Drepanojdectes jacksoni, Sharpe.

650. Urobrachya phcenicea (Heugl.).

651. U. aflinis, Cab.

652. U. traversi, Salvad.

653. Pyromehina flammicejis (Swains.).

654. P. nigrifrons, Bohm.

655. P. ansorgei, Hartert.

656. P. franciscaiia (Linn.).

657. P. diademata (Fischer k Reichen.).

658. P. xanthomehtna (Riipp.).

659. P. taha (Smith).

660. P. ladoensis (Reichen.).

661. Plocei passer melanorhynchus, Riipp.

442 ZOOLOGY

662. Floceipasser superciliosus (Cretzschm.).

663. P. donaldsoni, Sharpe.

664. Fhiketerus arnaudi (Bp.).
66.'). P. dorsalis (Reicben.).

666. Pyrenestes coccineus, Cass.

667. Quelea erythrops (HartL).
■668. Q. cardiimlis (Hartl),
€69. Q. cethiojiica (Sundev.).
■670. Q. quelea (Linn.).

671. Spei-niestes sfAgmatO'phorus, Reiclien.
€72. *S'. cucullata, Swains.
€73. S. scutata, Heugl.

674. Ortygosjiiza 2)olyzomi (Temm.).

675. 0. atricoUis (Vieill.).

676. Lagonostricta monteiri (Hart).).

677. L. minima (Vieill.).
€78. L. brunneiceps, Sharpe.

679. L. polionota, Shelley.

680. L. vara (Antin.).

681. L. rhodojxiria, Heugl.

682. Amadina fasciata, Swains.

683. Zonogastris melba (Linn.).

684. Z. sudanensis, Sharpe.

€85. Pytelia ■phoenico2)tera, Swains.
€86. P. afra (Gm.).

687. P. ansorgei, Hartert.

688. P. schlegeli, Sharpe.

€89. Coccopygia kilimensis, Sharpe.

690. Hyjiocha^ra tdtramarina (Gm.).

691. H. jiurpmrascens, Reiclien.
€92. Nigrita schistacea, Sharpe.

693. I^. spaisimguttata, Eeichen.

694. K dohertyi, Hartert.

€95. Sporcegitithtis subjfavus (Vieill.).
€96. Uroloncha canicejis (Reichen.).
€97. Estrilda astrild (Linn.).
€98. E. minor (Cab.).
€99. E. cinerea (Vieill.).

700. E. rhodopyga, Sundev.

701. E. palmlicola, Heugl.

702. E. roseicrissa, Reichen.

703. E. erythronota (Vieill).

704. E. nonntda, Hartl.

705. E. phoenicotis, Swains.

706. Graiiatina ianthinogastra, Reichen.

707. Spo^-ojnpes frontalis (L)and.).

708. Icterojtsis pelzelni (Hartl.).

709. Ano2dectes melanotis (T^afr.).

710. Heterhypjhantes nigricolUs (Vieill.).

711. H. melanoxanthus (Cab.).

712. H. reichenoivi, Fischer.

ZOOLOGY 443

713. Ileterhj/pkdntes atiMiiKtnni, Keiclit'ii.
7U. //. nnhd (Hartl.)-

715. J/. ste/)h(i>i,()/>ho)'u.'<, 81iari)e.

716. //. m.f'la)to(/ast)-a, Sharjte.

717. Sycobrotua luindoids, Jack.soii.

718. S. insif/nis, 8harpe.

719. SitMjra luteola (Licht.).

720. S. crocata (Haiti.).

721. Hyphantornis castmiojis (Shelley).

722. //. caiidnirai, Sbar2)e.

723. II. ahyssinicus (Chn.).

724. II. hohmJorJfi. (Keiolien.).
72."). H.Jischeri (Keichen.).

726. II. dutiediata, Antin. it Salvad.

727. Il.jacksoni (Shelley).

728. //. vittillinus (Licht.).

729. //. Utniopterus (Reichen.).

730. //. heuglini (Reichen.).

731. H.2)achyrhynchus (Reichen.;.

732. //. anomalus (Reichen).

733. Cimuxmopteryx ruhigiriosa (Riipp).

734. Melanopteryx niqerrihia (Vieill.).
73.J. Malimhus ruhricollis (Swains.).

736. Sj^ermospiza ncbrlcapilla, Shelley.

737. A77ihlyospiza capitalha (Bp.).

738. A. melanonota (Heugl.).

739. Dinemellia dinemdli (Riipp.).

740. Textor albirostris (Vieill.).

741. T. scioanus, Salvad.

Family L)icrurid.^<:.

742. Bucham/a assinulls (Bechst.)

Family Oriolid.*.

743. Oriolus galhula, Linn.

744. 0. aurattis, Vieill.

745. 0. notatus, Peters.

746. 0. rolleti, Salvad.

747. 0. larvatux, licht.

Family Sturnid.k.

748. Perissornis carunculatus (Gm.).

749. Pholidanges leucogasfer (Gni.).

750. P. verreauxi, Bocage.

751. P. sharpei, Jackson.

752. Galeopsar salvadori, Sharpe.

753. Lamprofornis brevicaudus, Sharpe.

754. Amydrm elgouetms, Sharpe.

755. A. morio (Linn.).

756. Stilbopsar stuhlmanni (Reichen.).

757. Ldinprocolius splendidus (Vieill.).

444

ZOOLOGY

758. Lamjyrocolius glaucovh'ens, Elliot.

759. L. ■purpureus (Miill.).

760. L. chalyheus (Ehr.).

761. L chloropter%t,s (Swains.).

762. L. chalctirus (Nordm.).

763. Spreo superbtm (Riipp.).

764. Buphaga africana, lAnn.

765. B. erythrorhyncha, Stanl.

Family Corvid.e.

766. Cryptorhina afra (Linn.).

767. Corvxts scapulatus, Dand.

768. C. edith(e, Lort Phillips.

769. Rhinocorax affitds (Riipp.).

770. Heterocorax capensis (Licht.).

771. Corvvhur alhicollis (Lath.).

253. A BR.\CE OF WHALE-HEADED STORKS

ZOOLOGY

445

List ok tiik

COLD-BLOODED VERTEBRATES HITHERTO RECORDED FROM
THE IGAXDA PROTECTORATE

By G. a. Boulenger, f.r.s

1. Testudo purdalis, Bell.

2. Cinyxis belliana. Gray.

3. Pelomedusa galfdtn, Schoeiift'.

4. Sternothcfrus sinwitm, Siiiitb.

REFTILIA.

CHELONIA.
Cryptodira.

Testudinid.e.

Pleurodira.

rEL0MEl)USII).4i.

5. Crocodilus tuloficus, Laur.

EMYDOSAURIA.

Crocodilip.e.

SQ CAM ATA.
Lacertilia.

Geckonid.e.

6. Hemidactiilus hrookii, Gray.

7. Lygodactj/lus picturatus, Ptrs.

8. Agama colonorum, Dand.

9. A. j)lanicej>s, Ptrs.

10. A. atricollis. Smith.

11. A. gregorii, Gtnr.

12. Chamcjesaura aunectens, Blgr.

13. C. fcB7inior, Gtnr.

14. Varanns ocellatus, Eupi*

15. V. niloticics, L.

16. Lacerta jacksoni, Blgr.

17. Nucras tessellata, Smith.

18. Eremius spekii, Gtnr.

AOAMID-E.

Cham.esaurid.e.

Vakanid.e.

Lacertid^.

446

ZOOLOGY

SciNCID^i:.

19. Mabuia macutilabris, Gray.

20. 21. iiiezalitra, Ptrs.

21. J/, varia, Ptrs.

22. M. striata, Ptrs.

23. Lygosoma sundevalli, Smith.

24. L. modestum, Gtnr.

25. Ablepharus ivahlhergii, Smith.

Anelytropid.*;.

26. Feylinia currori, Gray.

27. Chanueleon lavigatus, Gray.

28. C. dilejns, Leach.

29. C. hitceniatus, Fisch.

30. C. elliotti, Gtnr.

31. C. hoheneli, Stdr.

32. C. sphoiropholis, Pteichen.

33. C. xenorhinus, Blgr.

34. C.jacksoni, Blgr.

35. C.johnstoni, Blgr.

36. Rhampholeon kersteni, Ptrs.

37. Tf/phlojis jrunctatm, Leach.

38. Glaiu:onia emiiiL Blgr.

39. Fi/thon seb(e, L,

EHIPTOGLOSSA.

ChAMvELEONTID-E.

OPHIDIA.

Typhlopid^.

Glauconiid-i;.

BOID.E.

COLUBRID.E.

40. Tropidonotus olivaceus, Ptrs.

41. Bothrophthalimcs lineatiis, Ptrs.

42. Boodon lineatus, Ptrs.

43. Lycophidium cajjense, Smith.

44. Chloro])his emini, Gtnr.

45. C- hojilogaster, Gtnr.

46. C irregidaris, Leach.

47. Philothammis semivarirgatus, Smith.

48. Bhamnophis jacksoni, Gtnr.

49. Coronella semiornata, Ptrs.

50. Scaphiop>his albopunctatus,-Vixii.

51. Homalosoma Ititrix, L.

52. Grayia smythii, Leach.

53. G. tholloni, ^loQc\.

ZOOLOGY

117

.'i4. Dumpeltu scahra, L.

55. DipsadoniorphuH hlanduigii, Hallow.

56. Leptodira hotambosia, Laur.

57. Trimerorhimis triterniattis, Gtnr.

58. Psammojihis sibilans, L.

59. /*. puncttdntus, D. k, B.

60. Thelotornis kirtlandii, Hallow.

61. (Jalaianlapf, unicolor. Rhdt.

62. Elapechis giwntheri, Bocage.

63. Naia melanoleiica, Hallow.

64. Driidra.ymjamenoni, Traill.

VlPERID,«.

65. Causus rhomheatus, Liclit.

66. Bitis (irietans, L.

67. B. (jahonica, D. ife B.

(i'^. Atheris squamiger, Hallow.

69. Atractaspis irregidaris, Rhdt.

70. A. aterrima, Gtnr.

1. Xenopus, muelleri, Ptrs.

2. Biifo regidarin, Reuss.

3. Brevicepts vemKosus, Riipp.

BATRACHIA.

Ecaudata.

AGLOSSA.
Uactylethrid.*;.

PHANER0GL0S8A.
bufonicb.

Engystomatid.e.
Ranid.?':.

4. Rana delalandii, D. & B.

5. R. mascai-enicnsis, D. &, B.

6. R. stenocephala , Blgr.

7. R. nutti, Blgr.

8. Chiromantis xerampalinn^ Ptrs.

9. Rapypia cmctiventris, Cope.

10. R. marinorata, Riipp.

11. Megalixalus fomasinii, Bianc.

12. Cassina senegalensis, D. it B.

PISCES.

CROSSOPTERYGII.

PoLYPTEKID.t:.

1. Polj/pte7'i(,s senegalus, Cuv.

448 ZOOLOGY

\

DIPNOI.

Lepidosirenid^.

2. Protojjterus itthlopicus, Heck.

Teleostei.

MALACOPTERYGII.

MORMYRID.E.

3. Gnathonemus longirostris, Hilgencl.

4. Mormyrus kannmne, Forsk.

OSTAEIOPHYSI.
Characinice.

5. Hydrocyon forskalii, Cuv.

6. Alestes baremose, Joann.

7. A. 7iurse, Rtipp.

8. Distichochis niloticus, Linn.

9. Citharinus geoffi'oyi, Cuv.

10. Labeo forskalii, Riipp.

11. L. victorianus, Blgr.

12. L. rtieji>pelli, Pfeff.

13. Discognathusjohnstuni, Blgr.

14. Barhus edicardianus, Blgr.

15. B. fergusonii, Blgr.

16. B. page7istecheri, Fiscli.

17. B. bynni, Forsk.

18. B. titraspilus, Pfeflf.

19. B. alius, Pfeff.

20. B. paludinosus, Pfeff.

21. B. trimaculattis, Ptrs.

22. Neobola bottegi, Vincig.

Cyprinice.

SlLURID^.

23. Clarius lazera, C. it Y.

24. C. moorii, Blgr.

25. Schilbe dispila, Gtnr.

26. <S'. emini, Hilgencl.

27. AKchenoglanis biscutatus, Geoffr.

28. Synodontis zambezensis, Ptrs.

29. S. afro-fischeri, Hilgend.

30. *S'. citernii, Yincig.

31. Mochocus niloticus, Joann.

32. MalojHerusus electricus, Gin.

HAPLOMl.

Cyprinodontid^.

33. Ilajilochilus atripinnis, Pfeff".

34. Fundidus tceniojyygus, Hilgencl.

ZOOLOGY 449

PEKCESOCES.

OpHI()(K}M1AIJT) K.

35. Ophiocej/halm obsctcruft, Gtnr.

ANABAXTIl>.t:.

36. Aitabas jtfithersii, Gtnr.

37. Latis niloticuK, lAnu.

ACANTHOrTEl{Y(;ir.

SERRANID.i-:.

CiCHLID.E.

38. Faratilajiia longirostris, Hilgend.

39. P. cavifrons, Hilgend.

40. F. retrodens, Hilgend.

41. F. sennnm, Pfeff.

42. I'ilapia niloticn, Linn.

43. T. zillii, Gerv.

44. T. nuchisquamulata, Hilgend.

45. Fetrochromis andersoni, Blgr.

LAND :M0LLUJ^CS OF UGANDA.
Bv Edgar A. .Smith.

Comparatively little is known of the land mollu.scs of tlii.s country. A certain
number of species collected by Dr. F. Stuhlmann at various places near the north-
west border of the Victoria Lake and in the Euwenzori region have been described
by Dr. E. von Martens * and Dr. H. Simroth.* A few collected by Mr. G. F. Scott-
Elliot, also in the Paiwenzori country, were described by the writer ; + four new
species from the Mau Escar])ment on the east have lately been published, t and a
few species collected by Dr. Gregory in the neighbourhood of Lake Baringo and in
the lake itself were recorded in the Froceedimjs of the Mtdacological Socttti/ of L<>ndoi\,
vol. i. ].p. 163-168.

In the following lists the species from the lluwenzori district are marked (a),
those from the more central part of the Protectorate (6), and those from the eastern
side of the country (c).

The following is a list of the known forms : —

Family Uko( vclid.i:.

Trichoto,fon inncuhttiaji, Simroth {/>).

Family Vekonrellid.e.

Veronicdla stuhbnnniii, Simroth ('0-
V. schnitzleri, Siuiroth ('0-

* •' Deutsch Ost-Afrika," vol. iv.

f Smith, Proc. Malar. Sof., vol. i.

+ Smith, Joiini. Jfalacol., vol. viii.

VOL. I. 29

450 ZOOLOGY

Family Streptoxid-i:,
Enrica exogonia, ]\Iartens {(i).
E. curvilarnella, Smith {a).
E. limhata, ]\Iartens {a).
E. (jeminata, Martens {a).
E. runssorajia, Martens (a).
E. ]>aradoxula, Martens (a).
E. tigandensis, Smith (c).
E. pectdiaru, Smith, var. {Ij).
E. stuhlmanyii, Martens {b).
Streptostele costuhda, var. miiioy, Martens ('0-

Family Vitrinid.e.

lldicarioii stidd/iianni, Martens {(t).
H. caillaudi. Martens (a).
H. succidentus, Martens {a).
H. li/mphascens. Martens {a).
Vitriiui haringoensis, Smith (c).
V. obesa, Martens (a).

Family Tonitid.e.
I'hapsia hanningtoni, Smith, VKW f<isciat<i, Mts.i(6) ; var. stuhJvianai, Mts. (a).
T. emmiana, Smith 1 (a).
Moaria bellida, Martens {b).
Mm'tensia mozambicensis, Pfeiffer (b).
M. pjermanens, Smith (e).

Helix karevia, ^Nfartens (a).
H. runssorina, Martens (a).

Family/Helic'ID-E.

Family Pupid.e.

BidAminus bambuseti, ^lartens (c).
B. trajjezoideus, ^Martens («).
E. rectirugis, Martens (a).
B. stuhlmanni, ]\Iartens {a).
B. vgandce, Martens (b).

Family Stenogyrid^e.
Burtoa nilotica, Pfeiffer (a).
Limicolaria dohn-ti/i, Smith (c).
L. tui'riformis, ^Martens {b).
L. dimidiata, Martens (c).
L. rohl/si, ^Martens (6).
L. mediomacul'tta. Martens (c).
L. connectens, Martens (a), (b).
L. mar'tensiana, Smith (a).
L. saturata, Smith (a).
L. ventricosa, Smith {a).
Glosstida I'linssoriwi, Martens (a),
i^idjidina cnstaneti, Marteni- (a).

ZOOLOGY 451

SuhuUnn riK-mhriemi!,, Smith, var. circumstriata, Martens (a).

S. bicolutiiallaris, Martens {<i).

S. pauciydra, Martens (c).

Opeas svbvm-icosa, Martens (a).

0. streptostaloiiles, Martens (b).

0. cremdata, Smith (c).

Geostilbin stiMmdnni, Martens (a).

Family Cyclophorid.'E.

Ci/clophorm (A/eridm) intermedius, Martens {b).

The following species have been recorded from Lake Victoria

Family Limn^id^.
Limncea debaizei, Bourguignat.
L. nyanscH, Martens.
Isidora trigona, Martens.
/. strigosa, Martens.
/. transversal is, ^Martens.
/. forskali, Ehrenberg.
Phi/sopsis ovoidea, Bourguignat.
Planorbis choanomi>halus, Martens.
P. sudanicus, Martens.
P. victorice, Smith.
AiKylus stuhlmanni, ^lartens.

Melania tubercidata, Miiller.

Family Melaniid.^.
Family Ampullariid.e.

Amjndlaria ni/anzoi, Smith.

A. ovata, Olivier.

A. gordoui, Smith.

A. latourvieuxi, Bourguignat.

Lanistes schiveinfurthi, Martens.

Family Yiviparid.e.

Vivipara abj/ssinica, Martens.

V. phthinotropis, Martens.

V. rtcbicunda, Martens.

V. trochlearis. Martens.

V. costidata. Martens.

V. meta, ]\Iartens.

V. capillata, Frauenfeld.

V. victorice, Smith.

V. jiKunda, Smith.

r. capmdes, Smith.

V. ^cnicolor, Olivier.

ClfiojMtra guillemei, Bourguignat.

Bithi/nia hwnerosa, Martens.

452 ZOOLOGY

Family Cyrenid.e.

Corhiculd raJiatn (Pay)'e;/ss), Philippi.

S/>hcerium stuhlmanni, Martens.

*S'. nyanzce, Smith.

Eupera jMrasitica {Parreyss), Desliayes.

Family Unionid.e.

Unio hdkeri, H. Adams.

U. acuminatiis, H. Adams.

U. emini, Martens.

U. multicolor, Martens.

U. haictcoeuri, Bourguignat.

U. grandidieri, Bourguignat.

U. edivardsianus, Bourguignat.

U. duponti, Bourguignat.

U. granti/iiim, Bourguignat.

U. monceti, Bourguignat.

U. rudlani, Bourguignat.

U. lourdeli, Bourguignat.

JIutela ruhens, Lamarck.

21. suhdiajjhana, Bourguignat.

31. bourguignati, Bourguignat.

jSpatha (Spathella) bourguignati, Ancey.

jS'. martensi, Sturany.

iS. tixipezia, ^Martens.

>S. divaricata, ^Martens.

.S'. subcequilatfiu, ]Martens.

Family x^thepjid.*:.
J^theria clUptica, Lamarck.

The following forms occur in Lake Albert : —

I'amily Limx.eid.e.

Planorbis sudanicus, Martens.
P. .stanlcj/i, Smith.

Melanici tuberculatu, Muller.
M. liricincta. Smith.

Vivijxira ruhicunda, ^Martens.
Cleopatra jnrothi, Jickeli.
Bithynia alberti, Smith.
B. v'alleri, Smith.

Anipullaria ivernei, Philippi.

Family Melaniid.e.

Family yiviPARiD.j:.

Family Ampullariid.e.

ZOOLOGY 453

Family Cyrenid.k

Corbicnln vidirifa (Paryei/as:), Pliili]i]ii.
C. j'Ksill'i, Philipiji.

Family Unionid.*;.

Uuio (i'f/i/jiti((cm, Caillaud.

U. cnilbimli, Ferussac.

U. hah')-/, H. Adams.

U. acv7)u)i((ti(s, H. Adams.

Spntha {Spnthdla) hounfuifjnnti, Aneey.

S. stuhlmanni, Martens.

Mutda nilotica, Ferussac.

The following species occur in the Lake Albert Edward :

Family Limn-i-^id.*:.

Phiiiorhis ajtertus, Martens.
J\ su'l'inicus, Martens.

Family Viviparid.ic.
Vivipara unicolor, Oliviei", var. coiioidca, Martens.
BitJu/nia alherti, Smith.
Jj. hwncrosa, Martens.

Family AMruLLAKiiu.E.

Ampullm-ia e)-j/(h>-ost(j)ii'i, Keese, var. s.tuhlmanni. Martens.
A. ovdtK, Olivier, var. cinini, Martens.

Family MELAXiiD.i:.

Mdnnia tah-rcuhitn, Miiller.

Family CYREXID.^■:.
Corhicula radiata (Pnrret/ss), Philipjii.

Family Uniomd.^.
U)iio stuhlmanni, Martens.
U. ngesiamis, ^[artens.

CRUSTACEA.

Thelphusa nilotiai, M. E. See Bell, P.Z.S., 1S<)4, p. 16G : Blount Elgon— coll.

F. J. Jackson.
T. herardi, Sav. Ruwenzori, o,000 to 0,000 feet— coll. Scott-Elliot ; Mount Elgon,

7,000 feet — coll. Johnston.

VERMES.
Oliooch-eta.

Bmhamiit johmtoni, Beddard, P.Z.S., 1901, p. ^03. liuwenzori, fi,">00 feet— coll.
Johnston.

F. Jeffrey Bell.

454

ZOOLOGY

ARACHNIDA OF UGANDA.

SCORPIONES.

Pandinus viatoris, Pocock. Kavirondo country (W. .J. Ansorge).

SOLIFUG.*:.

Salpuga ohscura, Kraepelin. Kavirondo country (W. J. Ansorge).
Zeriassa &\). Baringo, 4,000 feet (H. H. Johnston).

AvANEi*; (Shioleos).

Ptermochilus murinus, Pocock. Kavirondo country (W. .J. Ansorge).
Anoploscelus celeripes, Pocock. Entebbe (H. H. Johnston).
Ctenus carsoni; F. Cambr. 1 Kavirondo country (W. J. Ansorge).
Pab/stes ellioti, Pocock. Ruwenzori (G. F. 8cott-Elliot).
Nejihila lucasii, Simon. Mpanga (H. H. Johnston).
JV. jnlijws, JjUcas. Ruwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Aranea pachana, Pocock. Ruwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Coerostris nodulosa, Pocock. Kavirondo country (W. J. Ansorge).
Gasteracantha ornata, Thorell. var. Ruwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

R. Pocock.

A List of the

LEPIDOPTERA

COLLECTED BY SIR H. H. JOHNSTON AND MR. C. W. HOBLEY IN
THE UGANDA PROTECTORATE IN 1900, 1901.

By Dr. Butler.

\* The specimens collected by I\Ir. Hobley are marked with an asterisk. They
were all caught in the Elgon and Nandi districts.

The new species in the accompanying list are : —

Harma johnstoni.
Pseudathyvia j^lutonica.
Aphnoexis hollandii.
Cryptomima haynpsoni.

Amaxirh niavius, Linn. .
*A. echiria

A. enceladus, Brown
*A. infer na

A. albimaculattts, Butl. .

Melinda mercedonia, Karsch.
*M.formosa

Tirumala petiverana, Doubl.

Monotrichtis persjncua, Trim.

List or the Species.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Toro, June, 1900.

Ruwenzori, 5,000 feet, Sept., 1900.

ZOOLOGY

455

i Monotrichtis sajitzx var., Hewits.

M. sausstirei, Dewitz.

Ypthima grantdosa, Butl.

Y. albida, Butl.
'*Y. asteroj>€

Charaxes mimenes, Hewitt

C. tiriJates, Fabr. .

C. hipunctatus, Rothsch.
*C castor .
*C. caiuJiojie
*6'. varanes
^C. viola .
*C. rosa
*C. cynthia
'*C. pithodoris .
*C. Tieanthtis
'*Cyrestis camiUus

Precis boopis, Trim.

*/*. Sophia .
P. cldia, Cram.

*P. sesamus
P. cebrene, Trim.

*P. elgiva .

P. W€ster7)ianni, Westw.

P. terea, Drury

P. gref/orii, Butl.
*P. limno7-ia
*P. pj/riforinis .

P. choriviene, Guer. .

^Pseiidargi/nnis hegeiaone

Protogoniomorpha teviora, Feld
*/*. amtcardii .
*P. nebidosa

Hypolimnas salituicis var., Drury

H. niisippus, Linn. .

Chloi-ojioea lucretia, Cram

Harma johnstoni, Butl

H. coenis, Drury

//. hobarti, Butl.

H. aramis, Hewits. .

H. theobene, Doubl. .
'*A rgynnis ha nnmgtoul

Crenio occidentcdium, Mab.

Ruwenzori, 4,200 feet, Sept., 1900.
Kuwenzori, 5,000 feet, Sei)t., 1900.
Bu^\•enzori, 5,000 feet, Sept., 1900.
Kuwenzori, 5jj00 feet, .Sejjt., 1900.

Entebbe, April 30tli, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th and
July 23rd, 1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th and 21.-^t,
1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th and 22nd,
1900.

Toro, June, 1900.
Entebbe, April 20th, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Port Ugowe, April 21st and 22nd,
1900.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Congo Forest, July Kith, 1900.
Port Alice, March 2:3rd, 190O.
Toro, June, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 4th, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 16th, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 16th, 1900.

Busiro, June 2nd : Toro, June 16th,
1900.

t This is apparently a wet phase of the variety with strongly an^nilated line below, to
which Professor Aurivillius has given the name of Mycalosis campina.

450

ZOOLOGY

Crenio hcisduvaJii, Wllgr.
Euphoedra eleus var., Drury .
E. iiianum var., Butl.

*E. anrlvillius ....

E. xi/petina, Stgr. .

E. sp-iUosa var., Mab.
'^,Sj>i)uIacis victorue .

Aterica galene, Brown

Ciinamlra opis, Drury

Euryphene abesa, Hewits.
'*E. neo-soj)hii>< ....
*C(dlidryas jf'Jirlla .

Diestogyna <xiimranta, Karscli.

Diestogyna sp. 1 ? , near veronica

Pseti'lathi/ma plutomca, Butl.

Kfdlima rumia, Westw.
*A'. ansorr/ei

Euvjjtela hi/arha, Fabr.

Ergolis enotrea, Cram.
*Catncroptyia chxintlvi
*Hj/j>hanis dethi/id .

Catuna crithea, Drury

Nepttis nicomedes, Hewits

J^. melicerta, Drury
*iV^. agatha .
*Xej>tidoptsis opioar .

AUlla phdjintha, Drury

*..l c(Axiiahin<i
Acroea torwut, Gr.-8ni.
A. alicia, Sharpe
A. livid, Gr. 8m.
A. vinidia, Hewitf?. .
A. Serena var. 7'oiigetii, Guer.
A. encedon var. lycia, Fabr.
A. onerata, Trim.

*A. peruana

*A. disjuncta

*A.Joh)tstrjni

'"'A. sotikensis

*A. Ventura

'''A. pharsahia

*.4. egina .

'''A. neohtde .

■""J . esehria (?)
A. nataUca var. dissociata, Gr.-8m
A. zetes var. menijij/e, Drury .

Busiro, June Snd, 1900.
Congo Forest, July, 1900.
Toro, June ; Congo Forest, July
16tb, 1900.

Congo Forest, July 16tli, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.

Congo Forest, July 16tb, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 16tb, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 16th, 1900.

(^, Congo Forest, July 16tb ;

? , Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 16th, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Busiro, r),050 feet, June 2nd, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Busiro, 5,500 feet, June 2ncl, 1900.

Congo Forest, July 16th, 1900.

Port Alice, March 20th ; Entebbe,
April 30th.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.
Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th, 1900.
Entebbe, April 20th, 1900.
Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th and 22nd,
1900.

Piuwenzori, 7,000 feet, Sept., 1900.
Entebbe, ^March 20th and April
30th, 1900.

ZOOT/)GY

457

Acra-a orhKita 9, Oln-rtli.

A. oreas, E. M. Sharjie
*Mijl(>thris iKjatliin't .
*M. ruppellii
*M. rubricoi^td .
*M.j<ickson/
*Lej>tosia medus'i
*L. alcestor

*Ha)nainiai(la >neleaf/ris .
*Pardopsis jninctili.^sima .
*Pl/ranieis cnydui
*P. abt/Ksinica .

Mer/alojtaljnis zijiiiwi, Westw.
Zeltus ? antifiiumis, Hewits.
Aphnoeus hollandii, Butl.
Cacyreus luigeus, Cram. .
Azanus nntalcnsis, Trim.
Zizera antanossa, ^laVi. .
Xi/chitona laedmn var. alcesta, Cram.

„ „ var. imriKiculntd,

Colias electa var. edits'i, Fal)r.
* Pier is tki/sa ...
Terias hrigittH var. loe, Ho]iff.

*T. Senegal etisis .
T. hoisdiival/toi't, ^lab.

T. j>u)ictinofat(( (J, Butl.
*Phrissi<ra eudoxin ,
^Teramlus chfoiiii/erus
*T. incretus
*T. aurigineus .
*T. pseudocnstn .
*T. emini .
*T.ocale .
*T. gavisa .
*r. casta .

Catopsila Jlorclla

Beleiiois solilucis, Butl.

B. calj/pso var., Drury
II. instabilis, Butl. .

*B. dentigera
B. forniosa, Butl.
B. severina var. injida, Butl

B. mesentina, Cram.

B. raff'rai/i, Oberth.
*B. alba " . . . .

Auri

Entebbe, Aj.ril 30tl), IfJOO.
Toro, June 16tli, 1000.

Congo Forest, July IGtli, 1000.
Congo Forest, July 16tli, 1900.
Congo Forest, July 16th, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, lOOO.
Toro, June 16th, 1000.
l^ort Ugowe, Feb. ^2nd, 1900.
Entebbe, A]iril 30th, 1000.
Toro, June 16th, 1000.
Toro. June, 1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 21st and 22n(l,.
1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 21st and 22nd,

1900.
Toro, June, 1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 21st to 23rd,

1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Toro, June 16th, 1900.
Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th ; Toro,

June 16th, lfX)0.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Port Ugowe, Feb. 20th to 23rd.

1900.
Port I'gowe, Feb. 20th to 23rd.

1900.
Toro. Julv 16th, 19<X).

458

ZOOLOGY

*Glutuphrissa saha .

1* Inacojderya liliana, Gr.-Sni.
fLeuceronia argia ? , var. idotea, Boisd.

L. pharis Si '^^i'-' Boisd.

Eronia dilatata, Butl.
*E. argia .
*E. thalassina .
*E. cleodora
*E. ceda

Papilio policenes, Cram.

P. demodocus, Esper.

I\ lormieri, Distant
*/-'. merope
*P. mackinnoni.
*P. opihidicepiiahis .
*P. nireus .
*P. bromius
*P. phorcas
*P. corinneus
*P. jacksoni
*P. leonidas

Eretis p>erpaupera, Holl.
*E. ohscura
*E. lugens .

Celoinoyrhinus opalimis ? , Butl
*C macrostictus

* Rhojmlocampjta forestall
Baoris inconsjncua, Bertol

* Vanessula milca
*Mi/calesis aurivilli .
*3J. p>erspicua .
*M. desolata
*M. ena

*M. auriconda .
"^Neocoenyra victori(je.
*E)iotimi dentata
"^Li/hithia labdaca
*Catochryso2>s osiris .
*C. aso])us .
*C'. telicanus
*C. ])atricia
*C. azaiius .
* Lycamesthes Tcersteni
*Polyommatus bcedectis
*Cyclo2)idis metis
*Iaira orithia .
*Pano2)ea tarquinia .
*Danais chrysipqje

Port Ugowe, Feb. 23rd, 1900.
Congo Forest, July, 1900.
Tore, June, 1900.
Port Ugowe, Feb. 23rd, 1900.

Port Alice, Marcli 20tli, 1 900.
Entebbe, April 30tli ; Toro, June

16tb, 1900.
Toro, June, 1900.

Toro, June 16th; 1900.

Toro, June 16th, 1900.

Entebbe, April 30tb, 1900.

t Differs from typical L. idotea iu the narrower border to the wings.

ZOOLOGY 459

In Sir Harry Johnston's collection there was one moth worth noting, a remarkable
new genus of " Clearwings," for which Dr. liutler has i)roi)osed the name of—

Cryptomi/na kamj>soni, Butl Toro, June 10th, 1000.

Mr. (1 W. Hobley caught the following moths in the Nandi District (1900, 1901) :—

Ntidaurelia zaddachu.
ChikTocainpii celeris.
Sphingomor}>ha monteironis.
Arifina serrata.
Phiala xanthosovia.
Metarctia lateritia.
M.flavivina.
Syntomis consini His.
Cyligramma latowi.
Grammodes stolida.
Utethesia ptdchella.
^Egrocera rectUhiea.
Trif/onodes hyjijnsia.
Dysgonia curvaPt.
Ai'va'strigosa.
Rigema ormita.
Diacrisia jnmctarm.
P(j>nj)Os(ola scintillaris.

COLEOPTERA.

By C. O. Wateehouse (excejit where otherwise stated).

Geodephaga.

Carabid^e.

Anthia hucolia, Kolbe. Entebbe (X. shore of Lake Victoria), October, 1900 (Sir

H. H. Johnston).
Tefflus delegorgtiei, Guerin. I'ganda (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Clavicornia.

SiLPHID.E.

tSdpha iuicaiis, F. Katwe sub-district, Toro (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

HlSTERID.*:.

Hister sjL Uganda (Sir H. H. Johnston).

C0CCINELLID,E.

(By G. J. Arrow).
Alesia aurora, Gerst. Ruwenzori, 6,000 feet, and sub-district of Katwe (G. F. Scott-
Elliot).
Ejnlachna hirta, Thunb. Neighbourhood of Katwe (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
£. deleta, Muls. With the jneceding.

E. tetracycla, Gerst. Kuwenzori, 9,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
E. scuteliaris, Kolbe. Ruwenzori, 6,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Ejnlachna sp. n.

460 ZOOLOGY

Languriid.e.

Promecolanguiia cupren, Arrow, sp. ii.

Reddish brown, head nearly black, elytra with a metallic lustre. Parallel-sided,
elongate, head finely and not closely punctured, thorax rather densely, elytra with
deei)ly imjn-essed rows of punctures. Antenna? with a loosely three-jointed club, the
two preceding joints very slightly widened. Eyes moderately finely facetted. Prothorax
rather longer than wide, Avith the sides hardly perceptibly curved and slightly ap-
]iroximating behind. Elytra truncate at the extreme apex.

Length, 12 mm.

Hab., Katwe and west of Euwenzori.

This species is allied to P. li/ctoides. Fowler, but is considerably larger than that or
any other described representative of the genus.

Three specimens were found by Mr. Scott- Elliot.
Pyomecolangurin sp.

Pectinicornia.

LUCAXID.E.

ITomoderiis johnstoni, s]). n.

? . Elongate ovate, moderately convex, cinnamon-brown, dull, slightly shining on
the sutures of the elytra only. Antennae and mandibles black. Head black in jiarts ;
closely and very coarsely ptunctured (more so than in //. mellyi). Thorax finely rugose,
with fine punctures intermixed ; the punctures on the front margin and at the hind
angles are more distinct. The margins are edged with black ; there is a rather large
black spot on each side of the disk, and there is a small lateral s]iot. There is a lightly
impressed, but distinct mesial line. Scutalum black, shining. Elytra with the suture
and the basal and lateral margins narrowly edged with black ; the whole surface
rendered dull by the extremely close, fine punctuation. Under side of the body black,
with a small obscure red spot on each side of the metasternum. Femora black, with a
red line beneath. Tibife red, with the spurs and the extreme base black. Tarsi black.

Compared with the ? of //. melb/i, this species is rather broader. The thorax is
somewhat of the same form, but is less emarginate at the sides before the lateral tooth.
The anterior tibia? are much broader ; coarsely punctured. The labium is more trans-
verse : the front margin scarcely produced forward in the middle.

Entebbe, October, 1900 (Sir H. H. Johnston).

A single ? example only.

Iiamellicornia.

TRO(;IL).^':.
Trox sp. Mount Elgon (Sir H. H. Johnston).

ScAEAB.i:iD.E.

Scarah<rvs (t-gf/jdiormn, Latr. Baringo, 4,000 feet. December, 1899 (Sir H. H. Johnston).
Ati/(chfflcos j>rocen<s, Gerst. Baringo, 4,000 feet, December, 1899 (Sir H. H. Johnston).
Ciithnnlm gorilla, Thorns. :\Iount Elgon (Sir H. H. Johnston). Common in West
Africa. The Museum previously to this possessed no East African examples.

ZOOLOGY u;i

111 TELID-K

Popillia cframinea, Kolbe. Ruwenzori, ."),300 feet ((J. F. Scott-Elliot).
P. kraatzi, Ohau.s. Ruwenzori, 9,000 feet (G. F. .Scott-Elliot).

Cktoxiid.*:.
Dicranorrhina johnstoni, n. sp.

I feel obliged to give a name to this fine species. I expect it is the same as that
recorded by Herr Kolbe ("Deutsch Ost-Afr.," Kiifer, p. 181), as D. mica us, Drury, from
Victoria Xyanza. All the West African sjiecimens of D. mican); known tQ me have the
head more or less green, with the fore part only black. The specimen.s now before me
from Entebbe have the head entirely black, except a trace on the neck.

Entebbe, October (Sir H. H. Johnston), two ^, one ? .

Xeptunides stanlei/i, Janson. Ruwenzori, 6,000 feet. (d. V. Scott-Elliot).

Gametis ba/teaf'i, De Geer. Ruwenzori, '>M0 feet, and Salt Lake district ((t. F.

Scott-Elliot).
Pachnoda Jlaviventris, G. k P., var. Ruwenzori, 6,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Diplognatha silicea, MacLeay. Ruwenzori, 7,000 feet (( J. F. Scott-Elliot).

Serricornia.

Blpkestid.*;.
Sternocera funebris, Bohem. Entebbe, Octol)er, 1900 (Sir H. H. Johnston).

Elaterid.e.

Tetrdlohiis hopei, Guer. Entebbe, October (Sir H. H. Johnston). A single example,
which I refer with some doultt to this species. •

Malacodermata.

LvCIDJi.

Lkm sinemtus, Schonh., and three other species. Ruwenzoii. o.OQO to 8.CC0 feet
(G. F. Scott Elliot).

Heteromera.

TENEBRIONID-t.

Aiuiantm castanopferus, Haag. Baringo, 4,C00 feet, December, 1899 (Sir H. H.

Johnston).
Hopdtrum sp. Katwe sub-district Toro ((}. F. Scott-Elliot).

CANTnAEIl>.E.

Mj/Iahris dicinctn, Bertol. Entebbe, October, 1900 (Sir H. H. Johnston).

Four examples of peculiar interest. Two of the examples have the two usual broad
yellow bands on the elytra. The third examjtle has a trace of a yellow sjiot in the
basal area of the left elytron, with a small but distinct spot on the right elytron. The
fourth specimen has a much larger yellow spot on the left elytron ; and on the right
elytron a similar spot, connected by a narrow line with the broad median baml.

Although there is a long series of this species in the Museum, there are none that
show similar variations.

462 ZOOLOGY

Rhynchophora.

Attelabid-*;.

Apoderics dumosiis, Gyll. Buwenzori, 6,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Lixits hildehrandi, Gerst. Mount Elgon (Sir H. H. Johnston).

Lixus spp. Four species from neighbourhood of Salt Lake (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Alcides olivaceus, Gerst. Piuwenzori, 7,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

LONaiCOKNIA.

By C. J. Gahan.

PRIONID.i;.

Colpoderus stithlmanni, Kolbe.

One cJ specimen taken at Entebbe (October, 1900) by Sir H. H. Johnston.

This species was described from a female siiecimen collected at Ituri, west of
Albert Nyanza, and the determination of the species from the male sex only must
therefore be somewhat conjectural.

In the male specimen from Entebbe, the mandibles are long, divergent from the
base to the middle, and then .strongly incurved, so that when closed they circumscribe
a somewhat transversely elliptical space ; they are gradually and regularly narrowed
from the middle to the apex ; the antennae do not reach beyond the middle of the
elytra, the first joint is relatively as long as in C. forc/pitm, Har., but somewhat
thicker, and each of the joints from the third to the tenth is gradually widened from
the base to within a short distance of the apex, being a little more prominent in front
with the apical angle rounded off ; the upper face of each of these joints is sparsely
punctate, the lower furnished with an elongated fossa, which is very densely and
minutely punctulate ; the prothorax has on each side a strong submedian tooth,
behind which it is obliquely and sinuately cut away towards the basal margin, the
latter being much narrower than in other .species of the genus ; the pronotum is smooth
and almost impunctate except in two depressed spaces near each side — one broader
close to the lateral margin in front of the submedian tooth, the other narrower close
to the oblique lateral margin behind the spine.

CEEAMBYCID.i:.

Xystrocera ansorgei, Gahan Uganda (Dr. Ansorge),

Compsomera ansorgei, Gahan Uganda (Dr. Ansorge).

LamiD-E.

Anthores leuco)ioti(s, Fuse Entebbe (Oct., 1900, Sir H. H.

Johnston).

Coptopsfusca, Oliv Ruwenzori (Sir M. H. Johnston).

Anci/loiuAus tribuliis, Fab Entebbe (Oct., 1900, Sir H. H.

Johnston).
Stei-noto/ms vari<djilis, Qued Ruwenzori, 7,000 to 8,000 feet

(G. F. Scott-Elliot).
S. aglaura,Ko\hQ Uganda (G. F. Scott-Elliot and

Dr. Stuhlmann).

ZOOLOGY 463

Entebbia, gen. nov.

Head slightly concave between the antenniferous tubers and marked there with
a horseshoe-shai)ed impression. Antenntc of c? half as long again as the body ; third
joint scarcely longer than the fourth ; fifth to tenth sub-etjual or very gradually
diminishing in length ; eleventh twice as long as tenth. Prothorax tubereulate at each
side, lobed at the middle of the base. Intercoxale of jirosternum regularly arched,
rather narrow in the middk% gradually dilated behind; that of the mcsosternum
sub-vertical in front, horizontal behind, with a small tubercle at the intervening angle.
Outer margin of middle tibiaj sinuate below the middle. Body covered with a
close-fitting squamous pubescence, and furnished also with rather long erect hairs.

This new genus must be placed in the group Tnujocephalides of Lacordaire.

Entehhld hijiioict'if't, sp. n.

Densely covered with a close-fitting scaly pubescence, which is for the mo.st ]»art
of a light coppery brown colour, l:)ut here and there of a greenish tint. Antennit
black, with the tip of each joint above and the whole of the under side thinly covered
with a greenish grey pubescence. Prothorax with some small scattered black granules
on each side. Elytra with some minute black spots near the base, each sjiot marking
the position of a setigerous puncture ; each elytron is marked with a small round
black spot on the disk at about one-third of its length from the base, and on each
also there are two faint longitudinal bands covered with greenish ]iubescence, the
inner band lying along a channel running close to the suture, the outer band along
the side in a line with the shoulder. The whole of the body is sparsely furnished
with rather long, erect, pale-coloured hairs.

Length, 25 ; breadth, 8 millim.

Hab., Entebbe (October, 1900, .Sir H. H. .Johnston).

Moecha adusta, Har Entebbe (Sir H. H. Johnston).

Ceroplesis irregiddyis, Har Kavirondo (O. Neumann).

C. sifjnata, Waterh Kavirondo (O. Neumann) and

Kuwenzori, 7,000 to 8,000 feet

(G. F. Scott-Elliot ).
C. qumquffasci'ita, Fab Entebbe (Oct., 1900, Sir H. H.

Johnston).
Ceratkesjdxjddem, Serv Uganda (Captain Lugard and

O. Neumann).
Phri/netoldes regai, Auriv Piuwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot)

and Busoga.

Pachi/stolaftdiijinosa, Chew Kavirondo (O. Neumann).

Phri'/stoln hecphora, Thoms. I Ruwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Fhrjineta obscum, Oliv Entebbe (Sir H. M. Johnston).

Petrogmitha f/igas, Fah Kavirondo (O. Neumann).

Glenea johnstoni, sp. n.

Dark brown, with luteous-yeliow bands ; legs reddish, with a faint grey pubescence.
Head with a spot on each cheek, two widely separated longitudinal bands on the
front, and two, more ajtproximated, on the vertex, luteous-yeliow. Prothorax densely
punctured, covered with a velvety black tomentum, marked on each side with two
luteous-yeliow bands— one placed low down just over the coxal cavity, the other
high up and distinctly visible when the thorax is looked at from above. Elytra each
a short oblique band running from the middle of the base towards the suture, a

464

ZOOLOGY

shorter longitudinal band just above the shoulder, a transverse band at the middle
reaching from the lateral carina to the suture, a short sutural band running from
this towards the scutellum, and a transverse quadrate spot near the apex, luteous-
yellow; upper surface of elytra marked with some rows of large punctures, which
are, however, more or less concealed by the dark brown, or almost black, tomentum ;
the sides each with two rows of punctures separated by an obtuse carina ; apices
of elytra truncate, each furnished with two short teeth. Body underneath covered
Avith an ashy grey pubescence, but Avitli spots on the breast and along each side of
the abdomen reddish brown. Antennae of the female slightly longer than the body,
and entirely blackish brown in colour.

Length, 16 ; breadth, 5h millim.

Bab., Entebbe (October, 19C0, .Sir H. H. Johnston).

This species resembles Volumnia morosa, Pasc, in markings, but its structural
characters show it to be a true Glenea, coming nearest, perhaps, to G. arcuata, Chevr.,
from Old Calabar.

Glenea sj). .....

Volumnia ■n'estoinanni, Thoms.

Xapserha sp

Nui'serha sp. ....
Fhj/tuecia sp. . . . .

Euwenzori, 6,000 to 8,0CO feet
(G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Euwenzori, 2,0C0 m. (Dr. Stuhl-
mann).

Euwenzori, 5,300 feet (G. F. Scott-
Elliot).

Euwenzori, 6,000 to 8,000 feet
(G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Euwenzori, 6,000 to 8,000 feet
(G. F. Scott-Elliot).

PHYTOPHAGA.

By C. J. Gahan.

CRIOCERID.i:.

Lema sj:).

Potcilomorjiha sj
Pcecilomorplta sj

Cor) /nodes sp

Diacantha 2>assetl, Allard .

^Ethmiea sji

Avlacophora fisskollU, Th., var.
Monolepta sp. . . . .

Aspidoniorpha silacea, Bohem. .
A. mutata, Bohem. .
LaccopiUra sp

Megalopodidj':.

EUMOLPID.E.

GALEErClD-E.

Cassidid.e.

Euwenzori, 7,0C0 to 8,000 feet
(G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Euwenzori, 6,0C0 to 8,CC0 feet.
Euwenzori, 6,000 to 8,000 feet
(G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Mount Elgon (Sir H. H. Johnston).

Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Euwenzori (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

ZOOLOGY 465

DIPTERA.

By Ernest E. Austen
(Zoological Department, British Museum).

So far as can be ascertained, no diptera whatever have as yet Ijeen descril^ed from
Uganda, and the present brief list is based almost entirely upon a small series of
specimens presented to the British Museum by Mr. G. F. Scott-Elliot, and collected
by him in Ruwenzori and the neighbouring region of the Western Province. Un-
fortunately the majority of these are in very poor condition, while some are altogether
undeterminable. The diptera of Africa generally have as yet l>een little collected and
studied, but sufKcient is known to indicate an extraordinarily wide distribution in the
case of many species, some of which range from Seiiegambia to Delagoa Bay, and from
Algeria to Cai^e Colony. It it practically certain, therefore, that many species described
from other parts of the African continent will be found to occur within the confines of
the Uganda Protectorate, and it is to be hoped that the in.sects belonging to this
interesting order will soon receive their fair share of attention in the territories which
form the subject of the present work.

BiBIONIDiE.

Flecia dorsalis, Macq. Ruwenzori, .5,300 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot). This species was
described from the Cape : the Museum collection contains a specimen from Pretoria
(W. L. Distant).

TiPULID.E.

Tipida sp. (probably new). Between Katwe and Buamba (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Tiinda sp. (probably new). Ruwenzori, 6,000 to 8,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
Pachi/rhina sp. (probably new). Ruwenzori, 6,000 to 8,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

Tabanidj^.

lahanus sp. Laikii)ia (W. J. Gregory). Very close to T. dorsivltfd, Walk., but the
median stripe on the abdomen is narrower, while the fringe on the outside of the
hind tibite consists of black pile, or of black mixed with i)ale i)ile, instead of jiale pile
alone. The palpi are clothed on a portion of their outer face with thickly set minute
black hairs, which are absent or less numerous in the case of T. dorsivitta. It is,
of course, quite possible that further researches may prove the supposed species to be
nothing more than a local race of the latter. Although Laikipia is beyond the borders
of the Uganda Protectorate, there can be no doubt, in view of the wide distribution of
other African species of Tdbniius, that the range of the present one extends into the
Eastern Province at any rate. The true Tnhanm dorsivitta was originally described
from the Gambia, Init the British Museum collection also includes specimens from Voi
and Samburn, near ]Mombasa, as well as from the Zaml)ezi. A si»ecimen of the species
from Laikipia, as distinguished above, was taken by Mr. L. L. Prichard on the Zambezi
on February 27th, 1901, with si)ecimens of T. dorsivitta ; and the Museum also possesses
examples from Mombasa (I). J. Wilson), and Kilimanjaro (F. J. Jackson). Specimens
of both species were labelled " Hippo flies " by Mr. Prichard.

Tabamis latipes, Macq. Laikipia (W. J. Gregory) (syn. 7'. africamis. Gray ;
T.fenestratus, Walk.). Although there are no specimens in the Ihitish Museum from
VOL. I. 30

m6 ZOOLOGY

any locality in the Uganda Protectorate, this s])ecies, like the former, can safely be
assumed to extend into it, since T. latipes and T. hu/utUitus, Wied., are perhaps the two
most widely distributed— as in appearance they are among the most striking— species-
of Tabamis in Central and Southern Africa. Of 7\ latipes the Museum possesses
further specimens from Kinsembo, in Angola ; the White Nile (Consul Petherick) ;.
Witu (Imperial British East Africa Company) ; Delagoa Bay (H. A. Spencer) ; Durban
(Plant) ; Malvern and Isipingo, Natal, February, 1896 (G. A. K. Marshall) ; Kiliman-
jaro (F. J. Jackson) ; Ngatana (W. J. Gregory) ; and Lake Nyasa (Bellingham).

ASILID-E.

Hyperechia sp. (}»robably new). Entebbe, October, 1900 (Sir H. H. Johnston, K.C.B.).

Syrphid.e.

Plagiocera macxdipennis, Lw. (G. F. Scott-Elliot). Between Katwe and Buamba.

Plagiocera sp. (G. F. Scott-Elliot). — Between Katwe and Buamba. Near but
distinct from PI. maculipennis, Lw., as shown by the more incrassated hind femora,
a dark transverse band on the front, the colour of the thorax posteriorly, and the colour
of the abdomen, which is also more .shining.

Plagiocera 1 sp. nov. (G. F. Scott-Elliot). Between Katwe and Buamba ; and
Ruwenzori, 6,000 to 8,C00 feet.

Syrphus adligatus, Wied. Between Katwe and Buamba ; Ruwenzori, 6000 to
8,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot). Other specimens of this species in the British ^Museum
collection are from Ulundi, Natal, 5,000 to 6,500 feet, September, 1896 (G. A. K. Marshall) ;
Delagoa Bay (K. W, Plant) ; and Cape of Good Hope.

Syrphus intersectus, W^ied. Between Katwe and Buamba (G. F. Scott-Elliot). I
am not altogether satisfied as to the correct identification of this specie.s, especially
since Mr. Scott-Elliot's specimens (the only ones in the collection) are in very jjoor
condition.

Asarkina sp. (?nov.). Ruwenzori, 7,000 to 8,000 feet (G. F. Scott-Elliot). Near
Asarkina eremophila, Lw., but the yellow bands on the second and following segments
of the abdomen of uniform width, not constricted in the middle.

Asarkina ericetorum, Fabr. (Asarki7ia salvice, Lw., " Di]it. Fauna S. Afrikas"). Between
Katwe and Buamba (G. F. Scott-Elliot). This is a very Avidely distributed species-
in Asia as well as in Africa. The Museum collection includes specimens from Sikkim,
2,000 to 3,000 feet, August, 1895 (J. G. Pilcher) ; N. Bengal (Lieut. Campbell) ; Ceylon
(Col. YerburyandE. E. Green); Mount Ophir (Wallace) ; Penangand Singapore (H. N.
Ridley) ; Sumatra (Sir Stamford Raffles) ; Lawas, N.-W. Borneo, July, 1895 (A. Everett);.
Labuan, March, 1895 (A. Everett) ; Masauadel (D. W. Barker) ; Sierra Leone, September^
1899 (E. E. Austen, Capt. Clements) ; Fernando Po (Louis Fraser) ; Delagoa Bay
(R. W. Plant).

Megaspis sp. Between Katwe and Buamba (G. F. Scott-Elliot).

MusciD.E.

Dejeania sp. (probably new). Between Katwe and Buamba (one specimen) ;.
Ruwenzori, 7,000 to 8,000 feet (one specimen) ; Ruwenzori, 9,000 feet (three specimens)
(G. F. Scott-Elliot). In the list of Mtiscidcn (excluding Anthomyitice) of the world
published by Prof. Braner in 1891 (Denkochr. K. Akad. Wiss. Wien., Bd. Iviii, pp. 398-
443), the only African Dejeania is D. (Stomoxys) hombylans, Fabr.— a yellow species^

ZOOLOGY

467

■with a row of conspicuous black s])Ots down the lufdian line of the abdomen ; the
species from Ruwenzori, liowever, has a claret-coloured al)domen.

DexUi sp. (probably new). Ruwenzori, 7,000 to 8,000 feet {(i. F. 8cott-Elliot). Braner"s
list above referred to contains no African species of Dexki. The present species, both
in general appearance as well as in size, closely resembles the European Dexia rustica,
Fabr., but the wings are more strongly infuscated, and there are conspicuous differences
in venation, in which respect the species comes nearer to the European Dexia vacwi, Fin.
Melanota sp. (probably new). Between Katwe and Buainlja (G. F. Scott-Elliot).
The only Melniiot>i included in Braner's list is the Europja:! J/, vohidm, Fabr.

Mkropezid.e.

Calohat'i sp. Between Katwe and Buamba ; Pvuwenzori, 5,300 feet (G. F.
Scott-Elliot).

List of
ORTHOPTERA OF UGANDA

By W. F. Kirby, F.L.S., F.E.S.

Blattid.I':.

Temiiopteryx fevruginea, Schulthers-ltechberg

DerojKltis atra, Brunner

D. melanophila, Walker

Rhyi>arohia viaderw, Fabricius
Folyphaga cagyptiaca, Linnteus

Tenodera ca2ntata, Saussure
Mantis sacra, Thunberg .
M. callifera, Wood-]Mason
Miomantis pellucida, Saussure
Fopa 2mdata, Fabricius .

Curtilla africana, Beauv.
Brachytry/tes me7nbranceus, Drury
Acheta bimandata, De Geur
(Ecanthus ca2)ensis, Sauss.

Gryllacris na7ia, Brunner .
Enyaliopsis petersii, Schauni. .
U. dtirandi, Lucas
JJugaster loricatus, Gersttecker
Zabidins lineolatus, Stal. .
Cymatomera spilo])hoi-a, Walker
A7uedojx)da latipennis, Burmeister

Mantid.e.

ACHETID.E.

Phasgomirid.1-:.

Ruwenzori.

Ruwenzori.

Baringo.

Uganda.

Baringo.

Ruwenzori.
Rmvenzori.
Uganda.
Buamba (Toro)
Mount Elgon.

Baringo
Ruwenzori.
Entebbe.
Ruwenzori.

Ruwenzori,

Mount Elgon and Ruwenzori.

T'ganda.

Uganda.

Uganda.

I'ganda.

Uganda.

468

ZOOLOGY

LoCUSTID.t'.

Tri/x<tlis giff(niteus,¥i\ei'i>ly

T. acuminata, Stal

Phloeoha rufescens, Kirby, ]\Z.S., 1902
Pnorisa squalus, Stal.
Chlehora thalassina, Kirby, P.Z.S., 1902
Gastrimarffus determinutus, Walker
G. marmoratus, Thunberg
Lociista im'gratoroiJes, Eeiclic.
Zonocpvus elec/ans, Thunberg .
Ph}/i)iatfus (legretiis, GerstKcker
Tajthronota gabunica, Karsch. .
Dictyophorus anchietce, Bolivar
Xiphocara gibhe, Kirby, P.Z.S., 1902

Acridium tataricum, Linnaeus .
Cyrtacanthacris prdlidicorne, Kirby (

Burmeister, vel Fabricius) .
Catantops capncola, 8tal. .
C. vielanostrictus, Scliaiim.
Eu7-yphymus crasstis, Walker .
Demolosiis heltoni, Kirby, P.Z.S., 1902
Pentacriola johnstoni, Kirby, P.Z.S., 1902

riijicorne,

Uganda.

Baringo.

Baringo.

Baringo.

Euwenzori.

Baringo.

Uganda.

Uganda.

Uganda.

Uganda.

Huwenzori.

Entebbe.

Between Lakes

Tanganyika.
Uganda.

Baringo.

Uganda.

Huwenzori.

Baringo.

Baringo.

Baringo, Euwenzori.

Victoria and

List of

NEUROPTERA OF UGANDA.

By W. F. Kieby, F.L.S., F.E.S.

I-IBELLULID-E.

Palpojiletira poytia, Drury
Ehyothurius ducalis, Kirby
Tritheinis lacustris, Kirby
Orthetrurii truncatum, Calvert
Caceryotes unifasciata, Olivier

jEschna elUotti, Kirby

^SCHNID,*:.

C.ENAGKIMID.i:.

Micronympiha senegalensis, Rambur.
Brachybasis rhomboidalis, Paliset de Beauvois

Termitid-E.

"Wadelai.
Uganda.
Wadelai.
Ruwenzori.

Katwe to Buamba, "Wadelai,
Entebbe.

Ruwenzori.

Termes bellicostcs, Linnieus

Wadelai.
Uganda.

Ruwenzori.

ZOOLOGY 469"

Myrmeleonid,!-:.

Palpures inclemens, Walker AN'adelai.

Cymothcdes johnstoni, Kirby, sp. ii.

Long. enp. 33 milliin. ; long, antenn. 13 niillim. ; long. al. ant. 40 niillini. ; long, al..
post. 43 niillim.

Female. Body almost uniform pale yellow ; antennal tubercles and the space between
the antennae, blackish ; antennie long, slender, filiform, the last joint blackish, and
l)ointed, vertex transverse, raised, with a rounded elevation on each .side, between which
and the eye is a blackish .spot. Pronotum about twice as long as broad, gradually
widened behind, a brown line on each side at the base, parallel, and another jiair^
diverging towards the extremity ; a black irregular band interrupted at the sutures
passes from the back of the pronotum over the middle of the meso- and meta-notum ;
the pleura is also marked with a broad black line. Abdomen with slender and in-^
complete brown or blackish lines in the back and on each side ; it is densely clothed
with short hair, especially towards the extremity. Front legs pale yellow, femora
thickly clothed with longer black hair and raised slender bristles on the ai)ical half ;
tibia? with three rows of a very few long, slender diverging black bristles : terminal
spines of equal length, and extending to the third tarsal joint ; the remaining legs-
wanting. Wings hyaline, lirilliantly iridescent, with a pink shade in some lights, and
irregularly varied with pale ochraceous, especially towards the marginal area of the^
apical third. Fore wings very slender at the base, very broad at two-thirds of their
length, and obtusely pointed. Many of the cross nervules in the costal area are double
at their base, where they are marked with a pale ochraceous spot. Two oblique black
irregular transverse stripes, one near the base, and the other before the middle of the
wing ; the latter shades into ochraceous above, below, and in the middle. A row of
irregular and interrupted ochraceous and blackish markings also crosses the wing at
three-fourths of its length. Hind wings longer, narrower, and produced into a point-
at the extremity ; the space between the hyaline portion of the wing and the apex
is irregularly varied with brown ; and the outer third of the inner margin is ochraceous,
slightly marked with brown on the inner side ; and before the inner end of this-
ochraceous border an irregular ochraceous mark, varied with brown above, is thrown
up for about one-third of the width of the wing, the whole inner area of which is
other\^-ise entirely hyaline.

Entebbe, March 24th, 1900.

DiiFers from all the described species of this curious genus by its pale colouring,
and pattern, as well as in the comparatively long, slender antennte, which hardly
accord with the short clubbed antennae which are usually characteristic of the family
Mj/rmeleonidce.

POLYZOA.

Plunmtdla 2yrince2)s,Yi.v?iQ\i%\m .... Lake Victoria.

P. j^^rinceps, Kraepelin Lake Albert.

P. jn-inceps, Kraepelin Lake Albert Edward.

P. 2'oli/morph/t, Kraepelin Lake Albert Edward.

Hydrozoa.
fff/Jra, resembling JTi/dm fiisca Pallas (JJe Meissner).

470

ZOOLOGY

Protozoa.

Order Lohosa.

Arcella vulgaris var. angidosa, Leidy

A. discoides, Ehrenberg

A. mitrata, Leidy

A. ajncata, Scbaudinn

Ilyalosphenia j^apiHo, Leidy

Qimdrida symmetrica, Wall

Difflugia globosa, Dujardin

D. ■pyviformis, Ehrenberg .

JVehela collaris, Ehrenberg

JW lagenifortnis, Penard .

JV. carinata, Leidy .

Leqiiereusia spiralis, Ehrenberg

Euglypha alveolata, Dujardin

Trinema evA:helys, Ehrenberg

Cyphoderia margaritacea, Schlumberger

Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake
Lake

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Albert f]d\vard.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Victoria.

Order Heliozoa.

{Jlathridina stuhhianni, Schaudinn.

E. KiRKPATEICK.

PrmteU bit ffazell, If'atson £ Viney, Id., London and Aylcsbv.ry.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

Los Angeles
This book is DLL on the last date stamped below.

iSI

^^^J 61986

24139

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