NARRATIVE

OF THE

-UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION.-

DURING THE YEARS

1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.

BY

CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N.

COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION,
MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

IN FIVE VOLUMES, AND AN ATLAS.

VOL. I.

PHILADELPHIA:

LEA & BLAN CHARD.
1845.

ENTKRED, ACCORDING TO THE ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1844,

BY CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N.,
IN THE CLERK'S OFFICE OF THE DISTRICT COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

STEREOTYPED BY J. PAGAN
PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN.

CONTENTS OP VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.

DEPARTURE FROM THE UNITED STATES — VOYAGE TO MADEIRA — ARRIVAL AT
FUNCHAL— APPEARANCE OF MADEIRA FROM THE SEA— LANDING AT FUNCHAL —
VISIT TO THE CIVIL AND MILITARY GOVERNORS — STREETS AND MODE OF TRANS-
PORTATION — CRIMINALS AND PRISONS — VILLA OF CARVALHAL — CONVENT —
RIDES IN MADEIRA — CURRAL — VISIT OF SCIENTIFIC GENTLEMEN TO SAN VIN
CENTE — EXCURSION TOWARDS THE EAST END OF THE ISLAND — STORY OF ITS
DISCOVERY — POPULATION OF MADEIRA — WINE — GOVERNMENT — CHARACTER OF
THE INHABITANTS — DRESS— DWELLINGS — MODE OF TRAVELLING — EMPLOYMENTS
OF THE PEOPLE — WINE -MAKING — LOWER CLASSES — ASCENT OF PICO RUIVO —
NATURAL HISTORY-aUINTA OF MR. BEAN— SCHOONER STAR SAVED FROM WRECK
—DEPARTURE FROM MADEIRA 3—24

CHAPTER II.

SUUADRON SAILS FROM MADEIRA —CURRENTS— SEARCH FOR SHOALS AND VIGIAS—
ARRIVAL AT ST. JAGO —APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND — TOWN OF PORTO PRAYA —
ITS POPULATION -LANGUAGE -VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR -PUBLIC FOUNTAIN-
MARKET—DRILL OF RECRUITS — DROUGHTS — CLIMATE — SLAVES — DRESS — DEPAR-
TURE FROM PORTO PRAYA — FURTHER SEARCH FOR SHOALS, ETC. — ARRIVAL AT
RIO JANEIRO • • • • 27~ 41

vi CONTENT S.

CHAPTER III.

CITY OF SAN SALVADOR — ITS IMPROVEMENT— ITS PRESENT CONDITION — CHURCHES—
THE MI8ERICORDIA— FUNERALS— EMPEROR'S BIRTHDAY— AaUEDUCTS— GEOLOGICAL
CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY— PUBLIC GARDEN— MUSEUM— BAY AND HARBOUR-
VEGETATION — BOTANIC GARDEN — SLAVE POPULATION — COFFEE- CARRIERS — RE
SEARCHES INTO THE NATIONS OF AFRICA— TREATMENT OF SLAVES— STREETS OF
THE CITY— SOCIETY — WHITE JACKET BALL— ARRIVAL OF THE RELIEF— ASCENT
OF THE SUGAR-LOAF—SURVEYS—DEFECTS IN THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SQUADRON
— TRIP TO THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS — JAUNT TO PIEDADE — CONCLUSION OF THE
SURVEYS AND OBSERVATIONS— ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADO 45-75

CHAPTER IV.

CHARACTER OF THE BRAZILIANS— CONSTITUTION OF THE EMPIRE— RULING PARTY-
ELECTIVE REGENCY— ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE— ELECTIVE FRANCHISE— ARMY
—NAVY — SCHOOLS — SLAVERY — FEELING TOWARDS FOREIGNERS— POPULATION —
NATIONAL DEBT, REVENUE, AND EXPENDITURES— COMMERCE — EVENTS IN THE
SQUADRON— DEPARTURE FROM RIO .. 79—89

CHAPTER V.

PASSAGE TO RIO NEGRO — ARRIVAL THERE — GUACHOS — EXCURSION OF THE NATU-
RALISTS-SALT AND SALT LAKES— GOVERNMENT AND POPULATION— PRODUCTIONS-
TARIFF— INDIANS— WANT OF ENTERPRISE— DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY— RIVER
AND TIDES — CLIMATE— VEGETATION — TRADE— HARBOUR— SQUADRON DRIVEN TO
SEA — DANGERS IN SURVEYING — CONVICT SETTLEMENT — COMMUNICATION WITH
BUENOS AYRES— DEPARTURE FROM RIO NEGRO-STATEN LAND— STRAITS OF LE
MAIRE— APPEARANCE OF TERRA DEL FUEGO— ITS HARBOUR — PARHELION— MIRAGE
—MEETING WITH THE RELIEF— HER DEPARTURE FROM RIO-CURRENT—RIO PLATA
—CAPE RASA— CAPE ST. JOSEPH— CAPE THREE POINTS— DREDGING— BELLACO ROCKS
— CAPE ST. DIEGO— GOOD SUCCESS BAY— CAPTAIN KING'S SAILING DIRECTIONS-
NATIVES— INTERCOURSE WITH THEM— BOTANY — GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION — NEW
ISLAND— ITS POSITION— ARRIVAL AT ORANGE HARBOUR— EMPLOYMENTS 93—116

CONTENTS. vjj

CHAPTER VI.

ORANGE HARBOUR — PLAN OP THE SdUADRON'S OPERATIONS — NATIVES — THEIR AP-
PEARANCE—THEIR HUTS — ARRIVAL OP MORE NATIVES — THEIR TALENT FOR
MIMICKRY— VISIT TO THEIR HUTS — THEIR FOOD — SOIL NEAR ORANGE HARBOUR
—TIDES— WHALES . . ] 19—129

CHAPTER VII.

DEPARTURE OF PORPOISE— WHALE-SHIP — HEIGHT OF WAVES — KING GEORGE'S IS-
LAND—O'BRIEN'S AND ASPLAND'S ISLANDS— PALMER'S LAND— ADVENTURE ISLETS-
GALE— SEA-GULL ORDERED TO RETURN— RETURN OF THE PORPOISE — ELEPHANT
ISLAND-GOOD SUCCESS BAY— BOAT DETAINED— ATTEMPT TO RELIEVE— ACCIDENT
—LIEUTENANT HARTSTEIN— GALE— FURTHER ATTEMPT TO RELIEVE THE PARTY-
PORPOISE COMPELLED TO PUT TO SEA— CAPE ST. DIEGO— ANCHOR OFF IT— RETURN
TO GOOD SUCCESS BAY— PARTY JOIN— THEIR TRANSACTIONS— LEAVE GOOD SUC-
CESS BAY— NASSAU BAY— DARK NIGHT— FIND OURSELVES AMONG KELP— ANCHOR—
NATIVES-REACH ORANGE HARBOUR-ALL WELL-SEA-GULL-DECEPTION ISLAND-
PENGUINS—SEA LEOPARD— TEMPERATURE— VISIT TO CRATER— FORCE OF WIND-
CAPTAIN SMILEY— DEPARTURE— ARRIVAL AT ORANGE HARBOUR-SENT IN SEARCH
OF LAUNCH— LOSS OF THAT BOAT— RETURN OF SEA-GULL— AGAIN SAILS FOR WOL-
LASTON'S ISLAND — BAILY ISLAND— SEA-GULL HARBOUR — ARRIVAL OF FLYING-
FISH 133—145

CHAPTER VIII.

DEPARTURE OF PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH — GALE—RETURN TO ANCHOR— FINAL
DEPARTURE— DIEGO RAMIERES— GALE— SEPARATION— DEFECTIVE OUTFITS OF PEA-
COCK-CURRENT—GALE— ACCIDENT TO WILLIAM STEWART— HIS RESCUE— DEATH-
FIRST ICEBERG— DIP OBSERVATIONS- WEATHER— ICEBERGS AND SNOW— GALE —
SITUATION OF PEACOCK— BIRDS— AURORA AUSTRALIS— DEEP SEA SOUNDING— FOG-
PETRELS— BREAKING ASUNDER OF ICEBERGS-DENSE FOG— D ANGERS-SNOW-STOR M
—OBSERVATIONS— FLYING-FISH REJOINS— LIEUTENANT WALKER'S REPORT— SITUA-
TION OF VESSELS— COUNCIL OF OFFICERS— CAPTAIN HUDSON RESOLVES TO RE-
TURN-WEATHER—AURORA— GALE— SHIP ON FIRE— FLYING-FISH DESPATCHED FOR

iii CONTENTS.

ORANGE HARBOUR-GALE— ACCIDENT TO ROYAL HOPE— PHOSPHORESCENCE OF SEA
—WHALE SHIP— ARRIVAL OF PEACOCK AT VALPARAISO— FIND THE RELIEF— LIEU
TENANT COMMANDANT LONG'S INSTRUCTIONS — DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED —
GALE— TOWER ROCKS— ANCHOR UNDER NOIR ISLAND— DANGEROUS POSITION— LOSS
OF ANCHORS— AWFUL NIGHT— PART CABLES— NARROW ESCAPE— CONDUCT OF COM-
MANDANT AND OFFICERS-COUNCIL—DETERMINATION OF IT— PROCEED TO VALPA
RAISO— ARRIVAL OFF THE PORT-COMMANDANT LOCKE, H. B. M. SHIP FLY— RELIEF
ANCHORS- ARRIVAL OF FLYING FISH AT ORANGE HARBOUR— PREPARATIONS FOR
DEPARTURE— WINDS— TEMPERATURE— BAROMETRICAL RANGE-CLIMATE—ANIMALS
—WOLF— BIRDS— ORANGE HARBOUR— VINCENNES AND PORPOISE TAKE THEIR DE-
PARTURE—SEA GULL AND FLYING FISH TO AWAIT THE RELIEF— ANCHOR IN SCA-
PENHAM BAY— GALE— ORANGE BAY— FINAL DEPARTURE — VINCENNES AND POR-
POISE PART COMPANY — ALBATROSS— DYSENTERY — ISLAND OF MOCHA— TRADE
WINDS-VINCENNES' ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO-ARRIVAL OF PORPOISE AND FLY-
ING FISH— HEAVY GALE— SEA-GULL LAST SEEN— WHALER 140— 1(3 J

CHAPTER IX.

APPROACH THE COAST— CORDILLERAS— VISIT TO AUTHORITIES OF VALPARAISO —
LANDING OF INSTRUMENTS— CUSTOM HOUSE OFFICERS— MR. GOOD— OBSERVATORY-
G. G. HOBSON, ESQ.— NORTHERS— PERCEPTIBLE CHANGE IN THE BAY— VALPARAISO
—DESCRIPTION OF IT— ITS ORDER AND GOVERNMENT— TRAIT OF CHILIANS-POLICE
—THEIR SIGNAL-SHOPS— AMUSEMENTS— CHINGANO-DANCES— SAMACUECA— HIGHER
CLASSES— DRESS-TASTE FOR MUSIC- FONDNESS FOR FLOWERS-GENERAL PRIETO
— HONOURS PAID HIM— BALL-DESCRIPTION OF IT J(i5_ 173

CHAPTER X.

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR-BILOCHES-TRAVELLING-CASA BLANCA-GEOLOGI-
CAL FORMATION— CURACOVI — HEATH ABOVE THE SEA — CUESTA DE ZAPATA —
CUESTA DEL PRADA — ROADS — TRANSPORTATION OF GOODS — BEGGARS — PLAIN OF
M A YPO — CORDILLERAS — ST. J AGO — MINT — LIBRARY — AMUSEMENTS — FASHIONS—
MARKET-CLIMATE-EXCURSION TO THE CORDILLERAS - MOUNTAIN SCENERY-
SNOW— GUANACOES— HEAT— RETURN TO ST. JAGO-MAYPOCHO— JOURNEY TO SAN
FELIPE — QUILLOTA — TUPONG ATI PEAK — DIKES — EVANGELISTO CELIDONO— FARM-
HOUSE—CATCHING WILD HORSES— RANCHO— ENTERTAINMENT-ARRIVAL AT SAN
FELIPE DE ACONCAGUA— MR. NEWMAN'S— MR. CHASE— TOWN OF SAN FELIPE —
CHIf-HA AND AOUARniENTE-THEIR MANUFACTURE— AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS

CONTENTS. ix

—VISIT THE COPPER MINES — MODES OF WORKING THEM— THEIR SITUATION —
TRANSPORTATION OP ORES— WAGES— TEMPERANCE REGULATIONS— LAKE ON THE
HIGH CORDILLERAS— COPPER ORES— RETURN TO SAN FELIPE— KINDNESS OF MR.
NEWMAN AND LADY— CELIDONO— Q.UILLOT A— RETURN TO VALPARAISO— EARTH-
QUAKES-PROTESTANT CHURCH — LIBERALITY OF PRIESTHOOD — ORACION — COM
MERCE — EXPORTS — IMPORTS — FOREIGN VESSELS — POPULATION— COLLEGES — CON-
GRESS—IMPROVEMENTS IN PROGRESS — REVENUE — NATIONAL DEBT — CLIMATE-
FRUITS— ADMINISTRATION— EXECUTIVE— SENATE— HOUSE OF DEPUTIES— MILITIA-
ARMY— NAVY— G. G. HOBSON, ESa, U. S. CONSUL— LIEUTENANT CRAVEN— HIS GAL-
LANT CONDUCT— CAPTAIN ISAAC M'KEEVER— U. S. SHIP FALMOUTH— FLYING-FISH—
GALE— SEA-GULL LAST SEEN— HER LOSS— PASSED MIDSHIPMAN JAMES W. E. REID-
PASSED MIDSHIPMAN FREDERICK A. BACON— ADMINISTRATION OF GOVERNMENT
OF CHILI 177—208

CHAPTER XI.

WANT OF CORRECT HISTORICAL RECORDS — O'HIGGINS DECLARED SUPREME DICTA-
TOR—RESIGNS IN 1823— COUNCIL OF STATE APPOINTED-GENERAL FREYRE LANDS
AT VALPARAISO— ARREST OF O'HIGGINS— HIS RELEASE— GENERAL RAMON FREYRE
ASSUMES THE GOVERNMENT— RETIRES TO PRIVATE LIFE— ADMIRAL BLANCO PRE-
SIDENT—BLANCO RESIGNS— SUCCEEDED BY VICE-PRESIDENT— HIS RESIGNATION —
FREYRE AGAIN CHOSEN PRESIDENT— FREYRE RESIGNS— PRIETO BECOMES PRESI-
DENT—RESIGNS— PRESIDENT OF THE SENATE ACTS— ELECTION HELD — PRIETO
ELECTED — REFUSES TO SERVE — VICUNEA PRESIDENT OF SENATE — TROUBLES —
JUNTA APPOINTED — CIVIL WAR — ABANDONMENT OF THE CAPITAL — FREYRE
CALLED IN— JOINS THE PRESIDENT'S PARTY— BATTLE OF LIRCAI, APRIL, 1830— DE-
FEAT OF FREYRE— HIS BANISHMENT TO PERU— NEW ELECTION— DON FRANCISCO
TAGLE RETURNED AS PRESIDENT— OVALLE AS VICE-PRESIDENT— BOTH RESIGN—
PRESIDENT OF SENATE AGAIN ACTS— NEW ELECTION— GENERAL PRIETO ELECTED,
JULY, 1831— STATE OF THE COUNTRY— HIS ADMINISTRATION— DIEGO PORTALES—
-SYSTEM OF REFORM — MILITIA SYSTEM — ESTABLISHES PUBLIC CREDIT— CIVIL
RULE— TRANSACTIONS WITH PERU— RATIFICATION OF TREATY, AND RECEPTION
OF MINISTER— CIVIL WAR IN PERU— DEFEAT OF SALAVERRY— NEW ORGANIZATION
OF PERUVIAN GOVERNMENT-RUPTURE BETWEEN CHILI AND PERU— SECRET EXPE-
DITION UNDER GENERAL FREYRE— INTELLIGENCE OF IT RECEIVED IN CHILI— AC-
TIVITY OF GOVERNMENT— CAPTURE OF FREYRE— HIS SECOND BANISHMENT— POPU
LARITY OF THE ADMINISTRATION— SEIZURE OF PERUVIAN VESSELS— SUSPENSION
OF HOSTILITIES-CONVENTION—CHILI REFUSES TO RATIFY THE PROCEEDINGS —
CHILI SENDS HER FLEET— CHILI DECLARES WAR— EXPEDITION ORGANIZED— DE-
CREE OF PRESIDENT PRIETO— EXPEDITION FITTED OUT UNDER ADMIRAL BLANCO
—TROOPS aUARTERED AT QUILLOTA— PORTALES' INSPECTION OF TROOPS— HIS AR-
REST—VIDAURRES MUTINY-ACTA OF OFFICERS-NEWS REACHES VALPARAISO-
VOL. I. B

i CONTENTS.

CONSTERNATION - CONDUCT OF MILITIA — VIDAURRE'S DEMANDS — PORTALES1
NOBLE CONDUCT— VIDAURRE'S ATTACK ON VALPARAISO— HIS DEFEAT AND FLIGHT
—PORTALES' DEATH— VIDAURRE CAPTURED AND BROUGHT TO VALPARAISO— TRIAL
AND EXECUTION— EXPEDITION SAILS TO PERU— ITS FAILURE— TREATV OF PAUCAR-
PAT A— EXPEDITION RETURNS— BLANCO DEPRIVED OF HIS COMMAND — BULNES —
NEW EXPEDITION— ITS DEPARTURE .. 211—225

CHAPTER XII.

PORPOISE SAILS— ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS— DIFFICULTIES OF LEAVING THE
BAY— REGULATIONS OF PORT BADLY OBSERVED— CONDUCT OF THE CAPTAIN OF
HAMBURG VESSEL— DEPARTURE— PART COMPANY WITH PEACOCK AND TENDER-
EVENTS ON PASSAGE TO CALLAO— ZODIACAL LIGHTS— MAKE THE COAST OF PERU
—TEMPERATURE OF WATER— ENTER BOUdUERON PASSAGE— ANCHOR AT SAN LO-
RENZO-GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF ISLAND— BURYING GROUND— ARRIVAL OF FAL-
MOUTH-CAPTAIN M'KEEVER-HIS KINDNESS— DESERTERS-CONDUCT OF CREW OF
RELIEF— PUNISHMENT— EFFECTUAL SUPPRESSION OF SUCH CONDUCT— COURT-MAR-
TIAL—JUSTIFICATION— CHANGE OF ANCHORAGE TO CALLAO— HEIGHT OF LIMA —
MOLE-€ALLAO— VESSELS IN PORT— CASTLE— DESCRIPTION OF HOUSES— RELIGIOUS
PRACTICES— MARKET — REVIEW OF TROOPS — OLD CALLAO — EFFECTS OF EARTH-
QUAKE—VAULTS FOR DEPOSITING THE DEAD— POPULATION OF CALLAO-FOURTH
OF JULY— ROAD TO LIMA— DEVASTATIONS— BELLA VISTA— APPROACH TO LIMA— EN-
TRANCE AND APPEARANCE — ITS PLAN — AMUSEMENTS— SAY A AND MANTA— ITS
PRIVILEGES— DESCRIPTION OF IT — HOUSES — PORTALES OR ARCADES— PALACE —
FOUNTAIN — CATHEDRAL — CRYPT — NOVEL HEARSE — MARKET— CONVENT OF SAN
FRANCISCO— LIBRARY— SIGNATURE OF PIZARRO— FOUNDING OF LIMA— THEATRE-
NAVAL SCHOOL— CLASSES OF NATIVES— POPULATION— NEWSPAPERS— HANDBILLS-
FESTIVAL— CORPUS CHRISTI— MR. MATHEWS— MANUFACTORIES— FESTIVAL OF ST.
JOHN'S— AMANCAES— CELEBRATION — EARTHQUAKES— EFFECTS PRODUCED— GATE-
WAY OF NAVAL SCHOOL— CLIMATE-RAIN— MEAN TEMPERATURE— HEALTH— RIMAC
—IRRIGATION— HARVEST— CHILIAN ARMY— STATE OF THE COUNTRY-MANNER OF
RECRUITING THE ARMY-TREATMENT OF SLAVES-DEATH OF BENJAMIN HOLDEN
—SMALL- POX— PRECAUTIONS ADOPTED 229—250

CHAPTER X T T I.

A PARTY FOR THE INTERIOR— PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY— PASSPORTS-MR.
BIGGS— DEPARTURE— EFFECT OF OFFICIAL PAPERS— FACE OF COUNTRY— RUINS OF
INCA TOWNS— PONCHORUA-CABALLEROS-CONVOY OF SILVER— ACCOMMODATIONS

CONTENTS.

XI

—EARTHQUAKE— ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF CAXAVILLO— FACE OF COUNTRY— ST.
ROSA DE aUIVI— YASO— OBRAJILLO-DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING MULES-BEAUTY
OF SITUATION-LLAMAS—RIOTERS—PLUNDERING OF INHABITANTS— CULNAI — LA
VINDA— VEGETATION— MULETEERS ENCOUNTERED —REACH THE CREST OF THE
CORDILLERAS— CASA CANCHA— ITS ACCOMMODATIONS— COOKING RANGE— SICKNESS
OF PARTY— SNOW-STORM— ALPAMARCA— COMPANY OF PERUVIANS— THEIR ATTEN-
TIONS—PROCESS OF AMALGAMATION OF ORE— MR. SEVAN— VISIT TO THE MINE-
FACE OF THE MOUNTAIN— ROAD— BANGS— HOT SPRING— BEAUTY OF VALLEY— VE-
GETATION—THREATENED ATTACK OF A CONDOR— PORTRAIT— INCIDENTS RELATING
TO IT— DESCRIPTION OF BANGS— ITS HABITATIONS-STATE OF HORSES— RETURN TO
CASA CANCHA— CHILIAN CONVOY FROM PASCO-PASCO— MINES— VEINS OF ORE-
NUMBER OF MINES IN OPERATION— LAWS IN RELATION TO SILVER MINED— DUTIES
—HILL OF RACO — NEW SPECULATIONS IN 1840 — DIFFICULTIES IN PURCHASING
MINES— THE POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY ADVERSE TO THIS BUSINESS-
TEMPERATURE— BEAUTY OF SITUATION OF CASA CANCHA— THEIR DEPARTURE ON
THEIR RETURN— LINE OF PERPETUAL SNOW— AMMONITE— CHICRINE— TRAVELLING
PARTIES - FRENCHMAN— HIS COMPLIMENTS— CULNAI— CULTIVATION— HOSPITALITY
— OBRAJ1LLO— ACCOMMODATIONS— WANT OF GALLANTRY— GUIDES— SETTLEMENT-
BRIDAL PARTY— YASO— ROBBERY— YANGA— HOSTESS— ANGELIT A— CABALLEROS-RE-
TURN TO LIMA— BOTANICAL REVIEW-GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY
—FLYING-FISH SENT TO PACHACAMAC— LANDING— TEMPLE— TOWN— TOMBS— THEIR
CONTENTS— EMBARK ATION— RETURN TO CALLAO 253—281

CHAPTER XIV.

SELF-AGGRANDIZEMENT THE OBJECT OF RULERS-END OF REVOLUTIONARY WAR-
GENERAL BOLIVAR DICTATOR— HIS AUTHORITY CEASES— GENERAL LA MAR ELECTED
— GAMARRA'S TREACHERY— LA MAR ARRESTED AND BANISHED— GAMARRA AND
LAFUENTE ELECTED— ATTEMPTS TO SEIZE LAFUENTE— HIS ESCAPE— EXECUTION
OF MAJOR ROSEL — CONVENTION CONVOKED — GAMARRA RESIGNS — ORBEJOSO
ELECTED — REVOLUTION BY BERMUDEZ AND GAMARRA — BERMUDEZ CAPTURED —
ORBEJOSO'S AUTHORITY RESTORED — SALAVERRY REVOLTS — DECLARES HIMSELF
SUPREME DICTATOR— UNITES WITH GAMARRA— GAMARRA DEFEATED— ARRESTED
BY SALAVERRY AND BANISHED-SALAVERRY MARCHES AGAINST SANTA CRUZ-
BATTLE OF SOCABAYA— SALAVERRY DEFEATED— TAKEN PRISONER— TRIED AND
SHOT-ORBEJOSO REINSTATED— TREATY WITH CHILI NULLIFIED-SANTA CRUZ'S
INTRIGUES — DISMEMBERMENT OF PERU — ASSEMBLY OF SICUANI — SANTA CRUZ
NAMED SUPREME PROTECTOR— CONVENTION OF HUARA-GENERAL FREYRE FITS
OUT AN EXPEDITION— CHILIAN CONSUL-GENERAL EVADES THE EMBARGO-SEI-
ZURE OF PERUVIAN VESSELS— NEGOTIATION— CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES— INVA-
SION OF ALTA PERU— DISASTROUS CAMPAIGN— TREATY OF PEACE— RETURN OF

xii CONTENTS.

CHILIAN ARMY-CHILIAN GOVERNMENT REFUSES TO RATIFY THE TREATY— LE
G1ON OF HONOUR — DISCONTENT AT SANTA CRUZ'S POLICY — WAR AGAIN COM
MENCED— EXPEDITION FROM CHILI— INVASION OF PERU— BATTLE OF LIMA— LIMA
TAKEN — ORBEJOSO ESCAPES — GAMARRA NAMED PRESIDENT — SANTA CRUX
MARCHES UPON LIMA— CHILIANS EMBARK— LAND AT HUARA— PURSUED BY SANTA
CRUZ-BATTLE OF YUNGAI— SANTA CRUZ TOTALLY DEFEATED-ESCAPES TO LIMA
—THENCE TO AREdUIPA— SEEKS REFUGE ON BOARD A BRITISH SHIP OF WAR-
BULNES SAILS AGAIN FOR CALLAO-DISEMBARKS HIS TROOPS— TAKES POSSESSION
OF LIMA— CONGRESS CONVOKED — GAMARRA ELECTED PRESIDENT — RESULTS OF
BATTLE OF YUNGAI— BULNES WITH HIS ARMY RETURNS TO CHILI— GAMARRA GOES
TO AID BOLIVIA— HIS FORCES ROUTED. AND HIMSELF KILLED-CHARACTER OF
BOLIVAR-LA MAR-GAMARRA-LAFUENTE-ORBEJOSO-SALAVERRY-SANTA CRUZ
—HIS ACTS— COMMERCE— PERU AND CHILI— IMPORTS— EXPORTS— TRADE WITH THE
UNITED STATES 285—304

CHAPTER XV.

STORE-SHIP RELIEF— EDWIN BARTLETT, ESQ.— EDWARD M'CALL, ESQ.— DEPARTURE-
CAPTAIN M'KEEVER-PERUVIAN BRIG— SMALL- POX — GENERAL ORDER — PROPOSED
ROUTE — CURRENTS — EXPERIMENTS — TEMPERATURE — ALEXANDER OGLE — CLER-
MONT DE TONNERRE-APPEARANCE OF IT— SURVEY-NATIVES— JOHN SAC— DIFFI-
CULTIES WITH NATIVES-LANDING-SERLE ISLAND -HONDEN- SURVEYS- CORAL
ISLANDS — VEGETATION— BIRDS, ETC.— DISAPPOINTMENT ISLANDS— INHABITANTS—
WYTOOHEE— OTOOHO— TAIARO-RARAKA— LANDING— ONE HANDED CHIEF-HIS VISIT
TO THE SHIP— INHABITANTS— CATCHING FISH — LEAVE-TAKING — GALE— NARROW
ESCAPE OF PEACOCK— PORPOISE DESPATCHED— VINCENNES ISLAND— CRITICAL PO-
SITION OF TENDER— LANDING— ARATICA ISLAND-COMMUNICATION WITH ITS IN-
HABITANTS—LANDING—VILLAGE-DESCRIPTION OF ISLAND— FRESH WATER— FOOD
—TENDER DESPATCHED TO KING GEORGE'S GROUP— VINCENNES AND PEACOCK DIS-
COVER MANHII AND AHII ISLANDS— SURVEY— LANDING— OBSERVATIONS— NATIVES-
DESERTER — ECLIPSE — PEACOCK DESPATCHED TO RURICK ISLAND — VINCENNES
PASSES TO NAIRSA— INHABITANTS— KRUSENSTERN'S ISLAND— METIA ISLAND— ITS
APPEARANCE-SURVEY—LANDING—NATIVES-MISSIONARIES' KINDNESS — COSTUMES
—ASCEND THE ISLAND— VEGETATION— APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND— DEPARTURE
—ARRIVAL AT TAHITI — ANCHOR IN MATAVAI BAY — OBSERVATIONS ON POINT
VENUS— PROCEEDINGS OF PORPOISE— PROCEEDINGS OF PEACOCK— ARUTUA— SURVEY
—NAIRSA OR DEAN'S ISLAND— CORAL BLOCKS— METIA ISLAND— OBSERVATIONS —
TETUAROA-FLYING FISH-TIOKEA AND OURA-HISTORY OF PAUMOTU GROUP-CHA-
RACTER OF ITS INHABITANTS— POPULATION 307—345

INTRODUCTION.

THE Expedition, a narrative of the operations of which is now laid before
the public, was the first, and is still the only one fitted out by national munifi-
cence for scientific objects, that has ever left our shores. It would, therefore,
appear proper that a more minute account of its outfit should be given, than
could be expected of one despatched by an older nation. This is more particu-
larly the case, as a great part of the difficulties it had to encounter, occurred
previously to its sailing. I would not, however, have the reader to believe that
I intend to enter into details of transactions of which, perhaps, no one knows the
origin, or to speculate on the causes that operated to prevent its sailing within a
reasonable time after the passage of the Act of Congress directing it to be under-
taken.

The command of the Exploring Expedition devolved upon me, by orders from
the Hon. Mahlon Dickerson, then Secretary of the Navy, on the 20th March,
1838. At that time, great confusion existed in its organization. It is unneces-
sary, and would be out of place here, to enter into its previous history. It is
sufficient to refer to the fact, that it had already been denounced as an entire and
complete failure, and that I was instructed to organize it anew.

Whatever others are disposed to think, I am inclined to believe, that the
originating, getting up, and getting off a first National Expedition, is a work of
no small difficulty, and this is much increased by the public thinking, talking of,

xiv INTRODUCTION.

and interfering too much with it. I felt this myself, although it did not cause
me much difficulty. The successive resignations of the different officers who
had been appointed to the command, led every body to look upon it with dis-
gust, and, in consequence, my road was clear, or comparatively unembarrassed.
The very state of things that brought the Expedition into general disrepute, was
of great advantage to me, for I was left to perform my duties unmolested. One
of the difficulties I had to encounter, was to make a selection from the numerous
articles provided, and this was a work of no ordinary kind. They may have
been all useful, and perhaps necessary for a larger Squadron; but if all had
been embarked, every vessel of the Squadron would have been filled. Every
expense that could be lavished on its equipment had been incurred. One rule of
action soon brought me to dispose of the whole : this was the capacity to stow
them ; and parts of each were accordingly selected for the new order of things.

On the 20th of April, I was informed that the vessels appointed for this ser-
vice were the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, the brig Porpoise, and
store-ship Relief. The tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish were subsequently
added.

The Relief was the only one of the vessels that had belonged to the original
Squadron.

On this reduction of force, it became necessary to change the organization,
not only in point of numbers, but also to bring the officers into more intimate
connexion with the scientific duties.

This was done by placing all those departments that in any way appertained
or belonged to our profession under my direction, with officers of the navy for
assistants. The size and accommodation of the vessels naturally led to the
reduction of those departments that were placed under the corps of civilians,
including naturalists as well as artists. As many of these were taken as could
be accommodated. The selection was made with much deliberation, and with
great impartiality. Reference was had to the departments in which results were
most to be expected, and most desired by the country. The only new one
added was the Horticulturist and Assistant-Botanist, Mr. Brackenridge.

After the 20th of April, every exertion was made to forward the various out-
fits. By the 7th July, the Vincennes and Peacock were taken charge of, and
dropped down between the forts at Norfolk, and it was determined that the
Squadron should rendezvous in Hampton Roads. On the following day, the
seamen were transferred from the Macedonian, which had been the flag-ship
under the original organization. I felt some solicitude about the crews. They

INTRODUCTION. xv

had been a long time shipped, and had manifested their discontent in a letter
addressed to the Secretary of the Navy, in which they objected to being trans-
ferred to a younger and new set of officers. The plan I adopted was at once to
send them on shore on liberty, and thus show entire confidence in them. To
my great surprise, they returned, to a man, showing that no disposition adverse
to the service existed among them, and that the bad feeling was nothing more
than what might naturally be expected to result from a long confinement on
board of a ship, in sight of their homes, and the constant disappointment they
had met with in a delayed departure. From this circumstance, and the pros-
pect of no further detention, their spirits revived, and great activity prevailed in
all the departments to forward the preparations. All the instruments had been
brought from New York in the Macedonian, under care of Lieutenant Carr.
Part of them, including the Chronometers, had been landed at the Naval
Asylum, where a Portable Transit had been put up, for rating them. The
instruments appertaining to Magnetism and the Pendulums were carried to
Washington, to make the necessary experiments.

The depot of charts and instruments on Capitol Hill, was selected to make
the series of observations at. These occupied my own time until sailing.

On the 26th of July, Martin Van Buren, the President of the United States,
accompanied by Mr. Paulding, Secretary of the Navy, and Mr. Poinsett, Secre-
tary of War, did us the honour to visit the Vincennes. On this occasion, and
the only one during the continuance of my command, a salute was fired, (none
of the instruments had then been embarked,) by all the vessels, and the yards
were manned. This produced a good effect on all, for it showed us that a
watchful eye was kept over us, and that much interest was felt in the under-
taking. This visit formed an epoch to which I often heard reference made
during the cruise. Few are able to estimate the feelings of satisfaction that such
acts occasion to those engaged in undertakings like this.

I shall now proceed to give a description of the vessels that composed the
Squadron.

The Vincennes was a sloop of war, of seven hundred and eighty tons, origi-
nally single-decked, but in consequence of the intended cruise, a light deck was
put on her for the protection of the men, and to afford more room. The accom-
modations thus became those of a small frigate.

The Peacock was of smaller size, a sloop of war of six hundred and fifty
tons, originally built for this service in 1828, with a deck like that of the Vin-
cennes. She had made two cruises previous to her sailing in 1838.

Xvi INTRODUCTION.

The Porpoise, a gun-brig of two hundred and thirty tons. The experience I
had had in this vessel induced me to ask for an alteration, which was made, and
added much to her safety, as well as increased her accommodations. This was
to build a poop-cabin and a forecastle on her deck.

The tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish were New York pilot-boats. The
former had been known as the New Jersey, of one hundred and ten tons ; the
latter as the Independence, of ninety-six tons. They were purchased on the 3d
of August. Their masts, sails, &c., were reduced, and their outfits completed
in the short space of three days, by those enterprising shipwrights, Messrs.
Webb and Allen of New York, to whom much credit is due. They joined the
Squadron on the 12th of August, in Hampton Roads.

The Relief was a new vessel, originally intended for a store-ship for the
Navy, but had been transferred to the Expedition on being launched. She was
built for carrying, and her slow rate of sailing made her ill adapted for the
cruise.

The Expedition is much indebted to Commodore Ridgely and the officers of
the Brooklyn Navy- Yard. To Commodore Downes and Captain Percival, of
the Boston Navy-Yard, we are also under great obligations. The boats pre-
pared under the direction of the last named officers, were found to be well
adapted for the service. They were all clinker-built, with the exception of the
launches, and of the description used by whalers and sealers.

After the Peacock's return in 1837, she had undergone little or no repairs.
Her bottom was indeed sound, being built of live-oak, but her upper-works were
worn and much decayed, as the sequel proved. After this vessel left the Navy-
Yard at Norfolk, her fore and cross-jackyards were found by her commander to
be rotten. On its being reported to the commandant of the yard, they were
ordered to be replaced, and all the other defects partially remedied.

The carpenter of the Washington Navy- Yard, Mr. J. H. Smoot, built for me,
under order of the Commissioners of the Navy, a very convenient portable pen-
dulum-house and observatory, which answered every purpose for which it was
intended.

The organization of this Expedition has frequently been a subject of remark.
I have therefore obtained all the papers that passed between the government and
Captain Hudson, in relation to it, prior to his accepting the position he occupied.
They form, with a few remarks, the first pages of the Appendix to this volume,
and will place the whole in its true light.

The Narrative will fully show the part he has taken in carrying out the

INTRODUCTION. xvii

instructions of the Department, and I must acknowledge and return my thanks
to him for the aid he afforded me in the arduous duties that devolved upon me.

To Lieutenant Cadwalader Ringgold, the commander of the Porpoise, I am
indebted, for his hearty co-operation in the duties that devolved upon the Expe-
dition. The efficient manner in which he at all times held his command, and
the promptness with which he carried out the duties assigned him, merit my
warmest acknowledgments and thanks.

The best encomium I can bestow on the united efforts of the officers and men,
is to refer the reader to the Hydrographical Atlas, and the details in the Narra-
tive of the duties which have been performed.

In the observatory duties and pendulum observations, I was principally
assisted by Lieutenant Carr, Passed Midshipmen Eld and Blunt, and Mr. Howi-
son. I deem it my duty to speak of the devotedness of Assistant-Surgeons Fox
and Holmes, who, besides attending to their engrossing medical duties and
meteorological observations, manifested the utmost zeal in collecting and making
researches in the various departments of natural history. They also frequently
assisted in the surveys, and I found them ever ready to engage in any thing that
could promote the success of the Expedition.

It gives me great pleasure to acknowledge the credit that is due, and the obli-
gations I feel under to Mr. R. R. Waldron and Mr. William Spieden, Pursers
attached to the Expedition, for their promptness in procuring the supplies, and at
all times forwarding the business of the Expedition; none of the departments of
the service were more efficient than that over which 4hey had control.

Since our return, Lieutenants Carr, Budd, Totten, and Eld, with Mr. F. D.
Stuart, who were attached to the Expedition, have been engaged under my
direction in recalculating and revising our numerous surveys, previous to their
being engraved.

To Messrs. Drayton and Agate, the Artists of the Expedition, I feel it due to
make known how constantly and faithfully they have performed their duties.
The illustrations of these volumes will bear ample testimony to the amount of
their labours, and the accuracy with which they have been executed.

Mr. Drayton has had the management of the whole engraving department
assigned him by the Committee of the Library, and has accomplished what very
few believed could be done in this country. The distribution of the work among
the engravers has given general satisfaction, not only to the Committee, but to
the artists themselves, and has afforded a national encouragement to this
description of art, the benefit of which it will long continue to feel.

VOL. i. c

xviii INTRODUCTION.

To Mr. Dray ton I owe many acknowledgments for his constant and untiring
zeal in all the departments of the Expedition, not only during the continuance of
the Expedition, but since its return, while acting in concert with me in pre-
paring the illustrations of the Narrative for the press. I cannot but congratulate
myself that we should have been so fortunate in having one attached to the
Expedition so well adapted to encounter, and from his former experience to
overcome, the difficulties we have had to contend with in the progress of the pub-
lication.

The country is particularly indebted to the Joint Committees of two successive
Congresses* who have had the execution of the law for the publication of the
results of the Exploring Expedition entrusted to them. They have afforded me
all the assistance I could desire; and through the facilities obtained, I have been
enabled to bring the Narrative to completion at a much earlier day than I at first
anticipated.

To the Hon. Benjamin Tappan especially, I feel under obligations for the
great interest he has ever taken in the Expedition. The law for the publication
was originally reported by him ; he was at an early day appointed the Agent of
the Committee to superintend the whole work in its progress ; and it has afforded
me great pleasure, as well as satisfaction, to co-operate with one so competent to
the task.

I am aware that some dissatisfaction was occasionally felt at the outset by a
few of the naturalists, because they were not allowed all the opportunities

• Members of the Joint Committee on the Library of Congress, at the Second Session of
the Twenty -seventh Congress :

SENATORS. REPRESENTATIVES.

Hon. William C. Preston, Chairman, Hon. Joseph L. Tillinghast,
Benjamin Tappan, John B. Aycrigg,

Rufus Choate. Thomas D. Sumter.

At the Third Session of the Twenty -seventh Congress:

SENATORS. REPRESENTATIVES.

Hon. William Woodbritige, Chairman, Hon. Joseph L. Tillinghaat,
Benjamin Tappan, John B. Aycrigg,

Rufus Choate. Thomas D. Sumter.

At the First Session of the Twenty -eighth Congress.

SENATORS. REPRESENTATIVES.

Hon. Rufus Choate, Chairman, Hon. Edmund Burke,

Benjamin Tappan, George P. Marsh,

John M. Bcrricn. William B. Maclay.

INTRODUCTION. xjx

they desired of making investigations. It was not to be supposed, from the
many interests, and their inexperience in naval duties, that all could agree that
the particular objects of their several departments received the proper considera-
tion. Each would naturally look upon his own as the most important. They
were not aware of my instructions, and of the duties that were enjoined upon
me; and I think did not take into consideration the loss of time I had met with
from various causes, and that my intentions were at times unexpectedly frus-
trated. Besides, it was my duty to look to the essential objects of the Expedi-
tion, which were entirely unknown to them. They are now, after the cruise has
passed, I believe fully satisfied that it was riot possible, without sacrificing the
greater interests, to give more attention than I did to subordinate parts.

I cannot avoid bearing testimony to their perseverance, industry, zeal, and
strict conformity to the rules and regulations laid down for the government of
us all. The result of their labours will shortly be before the public, and will
show the manner in which they have performed their duties. They messed
with the ward-room officers, and received all the privileges, respect, and atten-
tion due to that rank.

In the following Narrative, it may perhaps be necessary to state, that although
our time was limited to a few days at some of the places we visited, yet the
number of officers and gentlemen engaged under my command, enabled me to
have every thing worthy of notice examined. The result of our observations,
I am satisfied, will give a faithful representation of the countries and islands,
during the period of our visit.

I received every facility for obtaining information from our consuls, as well as
from missionaries and American residents abroad. Some of them furnished me
with interesting documents, connected with the past and present state of the
countries where they reside, and procured from the different governments many
valuable official papers. Indeed, the facilities met with have evinced a desire in
all to further the undertaking with which I was charged.

To the Governor of New South Wales, Sir George Gipps, my acknowledg-
ments are particularly due, for his generous liberality in ordering me to be fur-
nished by the Colonial Secretary, E. Deas Thompson, Esq., with all the docu-
ments published, not only at the time of our visit, but since. The latter have
been kindly forwarded by our consul, J. H. Williams, Esq., to whom the Expe-
dition is also greatly indebted. From all these documents I have been enabled
to draw much valuable information, which I hope will be interesting to the gene-
ral reader, as well as useful to our interests abroad.

xx INTRODUCTION.

The reader who shall look to this Narrative for my version of the develope-
ments which were elicited by the proceedings of the courts-martial, will be dis-
appointed, as I shall make no allusions that I can possibly avoid, to any of the
subjects of a personal character that came before those tribunals, that occurred
after the return of the Expedition ; nor will the following Narrative embrace any
personal matters or difficulties that may have taken place with the officers, for
the reason that I do not regard such details as relevant or interesting to the gene-
ral reader. The attempts to throw impediments in my way were unsuccessful,
and I fully believe, that from whatever motive they may have arisen, those who
caused them are now desirous that they should be forgotten. My countrymen
will see that my duties were sufficiently arduous without having other difficulties
to contend with, and I have the gratification of feeling that those duties have
been performed, and the results fairly obtained.

The performance of these duties is the best refutation that can be given to the
many misstatements that have been circulated to the prejudice of the Expedition,
but which, I trust, will now be set at rest. I have never had any personal feel-
ing in the matter, except that which naturally arises from the wish to overcome
all impediments, of whatever nature they might be. I can, therefore, have no
iesire but to give the true version of every circumstance of a public nature that
/nay concern the Expedition, and I hope that I shall be able to do it with impar-
tiality and justice, touching as lightly as possible on the faults of individuals, and
bestowing praise wherever it is justly due.

The objects intended to be accomplished by the Expedition, were such as to
require not merely the usual obedience to the orders of its commander, but
demanded, in addition, a zeal, that could only be inspired by a strong interest in
its success, and intelligence of a higher character than is called into action in the
ordinary routine of the duty of an officer. Deficiency in either quality was to
oppose an obstacle to the success of the enterprise; in a word, we were placed
in circumstances in which it became necessary for us to perform more than our
ordinary duties. Those who felt and appreciated our situation, are entitled to
the highest praise; while some apology may be made for others, who, perhaps,
were unconscious of any failure in discipline, or actual dereliction of duty, and
may have thought that they had cause to be aggrieved, when they found that I
was not satisfied with the manner in which their services were rendered; yet, it
was as incumbent on me to see that our work was not retarded by their want of
zeal and knowledge, as to shorten sail on the approach of the tempest.

The instruments I was supplied with, were procured by myself in Europe;

INTRODUCTION.

XXI

they were made by the best English, French, and German artists. A descrip-
tion of these will be given in the volume on Physics.

The longitudes of our principal stations have been determined by series of
moon culminating stars, and meridian distances have been measured from them
to other points by chronometers.

The latitudes of the important places were obtained by a number of sets of
circum-meridian observations of sun and stars.

The chronometers used were by the best English makers, and most of them
performed very satisfactorily. But two out of the twenty-nine became defective,
and stopped ; these will be more particularly noticed hereafter, in the volume
pertaining to this subject. To it I must also refer for the manner in which our
surveys were executed.

The magnetical instruments were by both English and French makers.
Results have been had throughout the cruise, and will serve to give a magnetic
chart of the world ; these will be published in the volume on Physics. Those
observations of more immediate interest in the high southern latitudes, will be
embraced in these volumes.

In the Appendix will be found all the official documents relating to the opera-
tions of the Squadron. These I have thought it necessary to lay before the
public, in order that it may have a full view of the whole of the operations in
which the Squadron was employed, and may be able to examine and compare
the orders under which we acted, with the duties which have been performed.
The Narrative will embody all those which we executed, and will thus enable
all to judge how the work was conducted. I have a strong desire also that the
whole should appear, in order that the Expedition may stand before the country
and the world, in its true merits. When they become aware of all the facts,
they will be able to see the injustice that has been done it, — will wonder at the
extraordinary reception that awaited its return, and the persecutions I met with,
as the reward of the arduous labours of four years. These I cannot but feel
were unjust, particularly as they were carried on without any hearing whatever,
and even without any examination of the results, or any inquiry relative to the
extent of the duties, or the manner in which they had been performed. This,
however, is not the place to speak of these things.

I had, at an early day after my appointment, assigned the 10th of August
as the time for our departure, and had assured the President that at that time
I should be ready, and would sail; but that it was entirely impossible for me to

xxii INTRODUCTION.

fix an earlier day. I feel much satisfaction in reflecting on the confidence the
President and Secretary placed in me. It was fully appreciated. The exertions
of all were bent to fulfil this pledge, although almost all those connected with the
enterprise doubted the possibility of getting off" so soon. Every thing, however,
was completed, and I left Washington on the 10th of August.

On my arrival at Norfolk, I found every thing in a state of forwardness, and
the Squadron in Hampton Roads, whither they had dropped down on the 8th of
August. The names of the pilot-boats were now changed to the Sea-Gull ana
Flying-Fish, as had been agreed upon with Mr. Paulding ; and they were placed
under command of Passed Midshipmen Reid and Knox.

I was well aware, from my own observations and the reports made to me,
that we were any thing but well equipped for such a cruise. But whatever our
defects were, it was now entirely too late to remedy them. The great anxiety
of the government to have us get to sea, after the vexatious delays that had
before occurred in the sailing of the Expedition, disappointing the honest expec-
tations of the whole country, and particularly the depressing effect any further
delay would produce on the spirits and ardour of the officers and men, made me
come to the resolution to put to sea at all hazards, and endeavour to remedy the
defects as much as possible within our own means, or on our arrival at places
where it could be done effectually.

Before sailing from Hampton Roads, the internal rules and regulations for the
government of the Squadron were issued, in order to make the terms of duties
more uniform, and that in case of transfer of men and officers during the cruise,
from one vessel to another, no one could be at a loss to know the duties he had
to perform. These continued without any material change to be rigidly enforced
throughout the cruise. Signal-books were also arranged to supply the defective
ones that are furnished the navy.

I was called upon, in a few cases, to exercise the means in my possession to
punish aggressions. Yet my aim has been throughout the cruise, so to conduct
the duties devolving upon the Squadron, that it would carry with it the force of
moral principle. All the regulations and operations were made to tend to this
end. I considered this as one of my first duties, and in it I have been well sup-
ported by Captain Hudson and Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, and by most
of the officers of the Expedition. I feel great satisfaction in having received
testimonials from the different missionaries, that my course has been fully appre-
ciated by them. Indeed, I have reason to rejoice that I have been enabled

INTRODUCTION.

XXlll

to carry the moral influence of our country to every quarter of the globe

where our flag has waved, and I trust that the Expedition will compare

advantageously with any other that has preceded it, in its moral and correct
deportment.

CHARLES WILKES.

WASHINGTON CITY,

November, 1844.

INSTRUCTIONS.

Navy Department,

August llth, 1838.
SIR,—

The Congress of the United States, having in view the important interests of
our commerce embarked in the whale-fisheries, and other adventures in the great
Southern Ocean, by an act of the 18th of May, 1836, authorized an Expedition
to be fitted out for the purpose of exploring and surveying that sea, as well to
determine the existence of all doubtful islands and shoals, as to discover and
accurately fix the position of those which lie in or near the track of our vessels
in that quarter, and may have escaped the observation of scientific navigators.
Liberal appropriations have been made for the attainment of these objects, and
the President, reposing great confidence in your courage, capacity, and zeal, has
appointed you to the command of the Expedition, requiring you to proceed to
the performance of the duties of that station with the vessels placed under your
orders, consisting of the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, the ship Relief,
the brig Porpoise, and tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish.

As soon as these vessels are in every respect ready, you will accordingly
take your departure from Norfolk, and shape your course to Rio Janeiro, cross-
ing the line between longitude 18° and 22° W., and keeping within those meri-
dians to about latitude 10° S., with a view to determine the existence of certain
vigias or shoals laid down in the charts as doubtful, and whose position, should
they be found to exist, it is deemed useful to the interests of our commerce to
ascertain.

At Rio Janeiro, you will replenish your supplies, taking special care to
furnish yourself with a sufficiency of all those articles which aro considered the

VOL. i. D (xxv)

xxvi INSTRUCTIONS.

best preventives and remedies for the scurvy. You will determine the longitude
of that place, as well as of Cape Frio; after which, you will either detach a
vessel, or proceed with your whole squadron, to make a particular examination
of Rio Negro, which falls into the South Atlantic about latitude 41° S., with a
view to ascertain its resources and facilities for trade.

Having completed this survey, you will proceed to a safe port or ports in
Terra del Fuego, where the members of the scientific corps may have favoura-
ble opportunities of prosecuting their researches. Leaving the larger vessels
securely moored, and the officers and crews occupied in their respective duties,
you will proceed with the brig Porpoise, and the tenders, to explore the southern
Antarctic, to the southward of Powell's Group, and between it and Sandwich
Land, following the track of Weddell as closely as practicable, and endeavour-
ing to reach a high southern latitude; taking care, however, not to be obliged to
pass the winter there, and to rejoin the other vessels between the middle of
February and beginning of March. The attention of the officers left at Terra del
Fuego, will, in the mean time, be specially directed to making such accurate and
particular examinations and surveys of the bays, ports, inlets, and sounds, in
that region, as may verify or extend those of Captain King, and be serviceable
in future to vessels engaged in the whale-fisheries, in their outward and home-
ward-bound passages.

You will then, on rejoining the vessels at Terra del Fuego, with all your
squadron, stretch towards the southward and westward as far as the Ne Plus
Ultra of Cook, or longitude 105° W., and return northward to Valparaiso,
where a store-ship will meet you in the month of March, 1839. Proceeding
once more from that port, you will direct your course to the Navigator's Group,
keeping to the southward of the place of departure, in order to verify, if possi-
ble, the existence of certain islands and shoals, laid down in the charts as doubt-
ful, and if they exist, to determine their precise position, as well as that of all
others which may be discovered in this unfrequented track. When you arrive
in those latitudes where discoveries may be reasonably anticipated, you will so
dispose your vessels as that they shall sweep the broadest expanse of the ocean
that may be practicable, without danger of parting company, lying-to at night
in order to avoid the chance of passing any small island or shoal without detec-
tion.

It is presumed you will reach the Navigator's Group some time in June, 1839.
You will survey this group, and its harbours, with all due care and attention.
If time will permit, it will be well to visit the Society Islands, and examine
Eimeo, which, it is stated, possesses a convenient harbour.

From the Navigator's Group, you will proceed to the Feejee Islands, which
you will examine with particular attention, with the view to the selection of a
safe harboui, easy of access, and in every respect adapted to the reception of
vessels of the United States engaged in the whale-fishery, and the general
commerce of these seas ; it being the intention of the government to keep one
of tho squadron of the Pacific cruising near these islands in future.

INSTRUCTIONS. xxvij

After selecting the island and harbour best adapted to the purposes in view,
you will use your endeavours to make such arrangements as will insure a
supply of fruits, vegetables, and fresh provisions, to vessels visiting it hereafter,
teaching the natives the modes of cultivation, and encouraging them to raise
hogs in greater abundance.

These objects will, it is presumed, occupy you until the latter end of October;
and when attained as far as may be possible, you will proceed to the port of
Sydney, where adequate supplies may be obtained. From thence you will
make a second attempt to penetrate within the Antarctic region, south of Van
Diemen's Land, and as far west as longitude 45° E., or to Enderby's Land,
making your rendezvous on your return at Kerguelen's Land, or the Isle of
Desolation, as it is now usually denominated, and where you will probably
arrive by the latter end of March, 1840.

From the Isle of Desolation you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, by
such route as you may judge best, from the information you may acquire from
such sources as fall in your way.

A store-ship from the United States will meet you there, with a supply of
provisions, in the month of April, 1840.

Thence you will direct your course to the Northwest Coast of America,
making such surveys and examinations, first of the territory of the United
States on the seaboard, and of the Columbia river, and afterwards along the
coast of California, with special reference to the Bay of St. Francisco, as you
can accomplish by the month of October following your arrival.

You will then proceed to the coast of Japan, taking in your route as many
doubtful islands as possible ; and you have permission to pass through the
Straits of Sangar into the Sea of Japan, where you may spend as much time as
is compatible with your arrival at the proper season in the Sea of Sooloo or
Mindoro.

Of this sea you will make a particular examination, with a view to ascertain
whether there is any safe route through it, which will shorten the passage of
our vessels to and from China.

It is enjoined on you to pay very particular attention to this object, in order
that you may be enabled to furnish sailing instructions to navigators. It may
be also advisable to ascertain the disposition of the inhabitants of the islands of
this archipelago for commerce, their productions and resources.

Having completed this survey, you will proceed to the Straits of Sunda, pass
through the Straits of Billiton, which you will examine, and thence to the port
of Singapore, where it is probable you may arrive about the beginning of April,
1841, and where you will meet a store-ship from the United States.

Having completed this service, it is presumed the objects of your enterprise
will be accomplished, and you will accordingly, after receiving your supplies at
Singapore, return to the United States by the Cape of Good Hope, taking such
a course as may be most likely to further the great purposes of the Expedition.

During your stay in the southern latitudes, should the dysentery or any

xxviii INSTRUCTIONS.

other fatal epidemic make its appearance among your crews, you have leave to
proceed to the northward, until the disease shall either disappear, or be so miti-
gated, as to admit of the resumption of your surveys.

The Department does not feel the necessity of giving any special directions
for preserving the health of those under your command, confiding in your own
experience, the care and precautions of the able surgeons with whom you are
provided, and in the conviction you must feel, that on the health of your crews
must depend the success of the enterprise.

In the prosecution of these long and devious voyages, you will necessarily
be placed in situations which cannot be anticipated, and in which, sometimes
your own judgment and discretion, at others, necessity, must be your guide.
Among savage nations, unacquainted with, or possessing but vague ideas of the
rights of property, the most common cause of collision with civilized visiters, is
the offence and the punishment of theft. You will therefore adopt every possible
precaution against this practice, and in the recovery of the stolen property, as
well as in punishing the offender, use all due moderation and forbearance.

You will permit no trade to be carried on by the squadron, with the countries
you may visit, either civilized or savage, except for necessaries or curiosities,
and that under express regulations established by yourself, in which the rights
of the natives must be scrupulously respected and carefully guarded.

You will neither interfere, nor permit any wanton interference with the
customs, habits, manners, or prejudices, of the natives of such countries or
islands as you may visit; nor take part in their disputes, except as a mediator;
nor commit any act of hostility, unless in self-defence, or to protect or secure
the property of those under your command, or whom circumstances may have
placed within reach of your protection.

You will carefully inculcate on all the officers and men under your command,
that courtesy and kindness towards the natives, which is understood and felt by
all classes of mankind ; to display neither arrogance nor contempt, and to
appeal to their good-will rather than their fears, until it shall become apparent
that they can only be restrained from violence by fear or force.

You will, on all occasions, avoid risking the officers and men unnecessarily
on shore at the mercy of the natives. Treachery is one of the invariable
characteristics of savages and barbarians ; and very many of the fatal disasters
which have befallen preceding navigators, have arisen from too great a reliance
on savage professions of friendship, or overweening confidence in themselves.

Much of the character of our future intercourse with the natives of the lands
you may visit, will depend on the impressions made on their minds by their
first intercourse with your vessels.

It is the nature of the savage, long to remember benefits, and never to forget
injuries ; and you will use your best endeavours wherever you may go, to leave
behind a favourable impression of your country and countrymen. The Expe-
dition is not for conquest, but discovery. Its objects are all peaceful ; they are
to extend the empire of commerce and science; to diminish the hazards of the

INSTRUCTIONS. xxjx

ocean, and point out to future navigators a course by which they may avoid
dangers and find safety.

An Expedition so constituted, and for such purposes, armed for defence, not
conquest, and engaged in pursuits in which all enlightened nations are equally
interested, has a right to expect the good-will and good offices of the whole
civilized world. Should our country, therefore, be unhappily involved in war
during your absence, you will refrain from all acts of hostility whatever, as it
is confidently believed none will be committed against you. So far from this
being the case, it is not to be doubted that even hostile nations will respect your
purposes, and afford every facility to their accomplishment.

Finally, you will recollect, that though you may frequently be carried beyond
the sphere of social life, and the restraints of law, yet that the obligations of
justice and humanity are always and every where equally imperative in our
intercourse with men, and most especially savages ; that we seek them, not they
us ; and that if we expect to derive advantages from the intercourse, we should
endeavour to confer benefits in return.

Although the primary object of the Expedition is the promotion of the great
interests of commerce and navigation, yet you will take all occasions, not
incompatible with the great purposes of your undertaking, to extend the bounds
of science, and promote the acquisition of knowledge. For the more successful
attainment of these, a corps of scientific gentlemen, consisting of the following
persons, will accompany the Expedition, and are placed under your direction.

MR. HALE, Philologist.

MR. PICKERING, )

,, r, > Naturalists.

MR. PEALE, $

MR. COUTHOUY, Conchologist.

MR. DANA, Mineralogist.

MR. RICH, Botanist.

MR. DRAYTON, i

MR. AGATE, Draughtsmen.

MR. BRACKENRIDGE, Horticulturist.

The hydrography and geography of the various seas and countries you may
visit in the route pointed out to you in the preceding instructions, will occupy
your special attention ; and all the researches connected with them, as well as
with astronomy, terrestrial magnetism, and meteorology, are confided exclu-
sively to the officers of the navy, on whose zeal and talents the Department
confidently relies for such results as will enable future navigators to pass over
the track traversed by your vessels, without fear and without danger.

No special directions are thought necessary in regard to the mode of con-
ducting the scientific researches and experiments which you are enjoined to
prosecute, nor is it intended to limit the members of the corps each to his own
particular service. All are expected to co-operate harmoniously in those

xxx INSTRUCTIONS.

kindred pursuits, whose equal dignity and usefulness should insure equal ardour
and industry in extending their bounds and verifying their principles.

As guides to yourself and to the scientific corps, the Department would,
however, direct your particular attention to the learned and comprehensive
Reports of a committee of the American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia,
the Report of a Committee of the East India Marine Society, of Salem, Massa-
chusetts ; and to a communication from the Naval Lyceum of New York,
which accompany, and are to be regarded as forming a part of these instruc-
tions, so far as they may accord with the primary objects of .the Expedition,
and its present organization. You will, therefore, allow the gentlemen of the
scientific corps the free perusal of these valuable documents, and permit them to
copy such portions as they may think proper.

The Russian Vice-Admiral Krusenstern, has transmitted to the Department
memorandums relating to the objects of this Expedition, together with the most
improved charts of his atlas of the Pacific Ocean, with explanations, in three
volumes. These are also confided to your care ; and it is not doubted that the
friendly contributions of this distinguished navigator will essentially contribute
to the success of an enterprise in which he takes so deep an interest.

You will prohibit all those under your command from furnishing any persons
not belonging to the Expedition, with copies of any journal, charts, plan, memo-
randum, specimen, drawing, painting, or- information of any kind, which has
reference to the objects or proceedings of the Expedition.

It being considered highly important that no journal of these voyages, either
partial or complete, should be published, without the authority and under the
supervision of the government of the United States, at whose expense this
Expedition is undertaken, you will, before you reach the waters of the United
States, require from every person under your command the surrender of all
journals, memorandums, remarks, writings, drawings, sketches, and paintings,
as well as all specimens of every kind, collected or prepared during your
absence from the United States.

After causing correct inventories of these to be made and signed by two
commissioned officers, and by the parties by whom they were collected or
prepared, you will cause them to be carefully sealed by the said officers, and
reserved for such disposition as the Department may direct.

You will adopt the most effectual measures to prepare and preserve all
specimens of natural history that may be collected, and should any opportuni-
ties occur for sending home by a vessel of war of the United States, copies of
information, or duplicates of specimens, or any other material you may deem
it important to preserve from the reach of future accident, you will avail your-
self of the occasion, forwarding as frequently as may be done with safety,
details of your voyage and its most material events, at the same time strictly
prohibiting all communications except to this Department, from any person
attached to the Expedition, referring to discoveries, or any circumstances
connected with the progress of your enterprise.

INSTRUCTIONS. xxxi

It is believed that the officers under your command require no special advice
or direction from this Department. Beai'ing in mind, as they no doubt will,
that the undertaking which they are about assisting to accomplish, is one that
necessarily attracts the attention of the civilized world, and that the honour and
interests of their country are equally involved in its results, it is not for a
moment doubted that in this, as on all other occasions, they will so conduct
themselves, as to add to the reputation our navy has so justly acquired at home
and abroad.

With the best wishes for the success of the Expedition, and the safe return of
yourself and your companions,

I am, very respectfully,

(Signed) J. K. PAUXDING.
To LIEUTENANT CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding the Exploring and Surveying Expedition, &c.

P. S. The accompanying printed list of English words, drawn up by Mr.
Gallatin, and received from the War Department since these instructions were
prepared, are intended for Indian vocabularies, which can be filled up as
circumstances permit, taking care that the same words be used in all of them.

(Signed) J. K. PAULDING.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN

ATTACHED TO

THE UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

UNITED STATES SHIP VINCENNES.

CHARLES WILKES, ESQ., Commanding Exploring Expedition.

Lieutenant. Left at Valparaiso June 6th, 1839, to take

command of the Sea-Gull.

Lieutenant. Took command of brig Oregon, at San

Francisco, October, 1841.

Lieutenant. Commanded Sea-Gull on her Southern

Cruise, detached at Honolulu, Novem-
ber, 1841.

Lieutenant. Joined brig Porpoise at San Francisco,

October, 1841.

Lieutenant. Joined Peacock at Orange Bay, and Por-

poise at Callao.

Acting Master. Joined Porpoise at Callao.

Acting Surgeon. Detached at Sydney, March, 1840.

Purser.

Chaplain. Detached at San Francisco, October, 1841.

Assistant Surg. Joined Porpoise at San Francisco, October,
1841.

Assistant Surg. Joined Peacock at Honolulu, and Vin-
cennes again at San Francisco.

Passed Mid. Joined Porpoise at Callao, and Vincennes

at Honolulu.

Passed Mid. Joined Peacock, 1839, and Flying.Fish at

Honolulu, 1840, and Porpoise at Singa-
pore.

Passed Mid. Joined Flying-Fish on a cruise south,

1839-'40, and Vincennes again, May,

THOMAS T. CRAVEN,
OVERTON CARR,
ROBERT E. JOHNSON,

JAJUES ALDEN,
WILLIAM L. MAURY,

JAMES H. NORTH,
EDWARD GILCHRIST,
R. R. WALDRON,
J. L. ELLIOTT,
J. L. Fox,

J. S. WHITTLE,
GEORGE M. TOTTEN,
WILLIAM REYNOLDS,

WILLIAM MAY,

1840.

VOL. 1.

(33)

XXXIV

L I S T O F OFFICERS AND MEN.

JOSEPH P. SANDFORD,

GEORGE W. CLARK,

SAMUEL ELLIOTT,
WILLIAM SMITH,
WASHINGTON BRIGHT,
WILLIAM M. LAIGHTON,
SAMUEL N. HAWKINS,
BENJ. VANDERFORD,
R. P. ROBINSON,
JOHN G. WILLIAMSON,

Passed Mid.

Midshipman.

Midshipman.

Boatswain.

Gunner.

Carpenter.

Sailmaker.

Pilot.

Purser's Steward.

Gunner.

Joined Porpoise at Tahiti, schooner Fly-
ing-Fisli at San Francisco, and Porpoise
at Singapore.

Joined Peacock at Tahiti, and Vincenncs
again at San Francisco.

Joined Relief at Callao.
Joined Relief at Callao.

Died, April, 1842.

CHARLES PICKERING,
JOSEPH DRAYTON,
J. U. BRACKENRIDGE,
JOHN G. BROWN,
JOHN W. W. DYES,
JOSEPH P. COUTHOUY,

SCIENTIFIC CORPS.

Naturalist.
Artist.

Assistant Botanist.
Mathematical Instrument Maker.
Assistant Taxidermist.

Naturalist. Left at Sydney, and detached at Hono-

lulu, November, 1840.

UNITED STATES SHIP PEACOCK.

WRECKED JULY 18TH, 1841.

WILLIAM L. HUDSON, Eso,., Commanding.
SAMUEL P. LEE, Lieutenant.

W. M. WALKER, Lieutenant.

GEORGE F. EMMONS,
O. H. PERRY,
THOMAS A. BUDD,
J. F. SICKLES,
WILLIAM SPIEDE.N,
SILAS HOLMES,

JAMES B. LEWIS,

HENRY GANSEVOORT,

HENRY ELD,

GEORGE W. HARRISON,

WILKES HENRY,
WILLIAM H. HUDSON,

Lieutenant.
Lieutenant.
Acting Master.
Surgeon.
Purser.
Assistant Surg.

Passed Mid.

Passed Mid.
Passed Mid.
Passed Mid.

Midshipman.
Midshipman.

Joined Vincennes at San Francisco.
Detached at Orange Bay, Feb. 1839.
Commanded Flying-Fish first cruise,

joined Porpoise at Columbia river, and

Vincennes at San Francisco.
Joined Vincennes at San Francisco.
Joined Vincennes at San Francisco.
Joined Vincennes at Feejee.
Joined Relief at Callao.
Joined Oregon at Columbia River.
Joined Porpoise at Sydney, and Oregon at

San Francisco.
Joined Flying-Fish at Feejee, returned

home from Oahu sick.
Detached at Callao, 1839.
Joined Vincennes at Feejee.
Joined Flying-Fish on cruise south, Pea-
cock at Feejee, and Oregon at Columbia

River.
Joined Vincennes at Callao, killed, July

24th, 1840, at Malolo.
Joined Vincennes at Columbia river.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

xxxv

FREDERICK D. STUART,
THOMAS G. BELL,

JOHN D. ANDERSON,
JONAS DIBBLE,
J. D. FREEMAN,
WILLIAM H. I.NSLEV,

Captain's Clerk. Joined Porpoise at Columbia river, and
Vincennes at San Francisco.

Boatswain. Joined Porpoise at Columbia river, and

Oregon at San Francisco.

Gunner. Detached at Callao.

Carpenter. Joined Oregon at Columbia river.

Sailmaker. Joined Porpoise at Columbia river.

Purser's Steward. Detached at Callao.

SCIENTIFIC CORPS.

JAMES D. DANA, Mineralogist. Joined Vincennes at San Francisco.

T. R. PEALE, Naturalist. Joined Vincennes at San Francisco.

HORATIO HALE, Philologist. Joined Vincennes at New Zealand, Peacock

at Honolulu, and was left at Oregon to
cross the country.

F. L. DAVENPORT, Interpreter. Detached at Rio.

UNITED STATES SHIP RELIEF.

SENT HOME FROM CALLAO, BY WAY OF SANDWICH ISLANDS AND SYDNEY.

A. K. LONG,

R. F. Pl.NKXEV,

A. L. CASE,

JOSEPH A. UNDERWOOD,

GEORGE T. SINCLAIR,

J. C. PALMER,
ALONZO B. DAVIS,

THOMAS W. CUMMINGS,
JAMES L. BLAIR,

JAMES R. HOWISON,
J. BLACK,
THOMAS LEWIS,

Lieutenant-Commandant.

Lieutenant. Joined Peacock at Orange Bay, Flying-

Fish at Callao, and detached at Hono-
lulu, 1840.

Lieutenant. Joined Vincennes at Callao.

Lieutenant. Joined Vincennes at Callao, and killed at

Malolo, July 24th, 1840.

Acting Master. Joined Porpoise at Callao; Commander
Flying-Fish at Feejee; joined Porpoise
again at Honolulu, November, 1840.

Acting Surgeon. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at
Columbia river, and Vincennes at San
Francisco.

Passed Mid. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes

at Columbia river, and Oregon at San
Francisco.

Passed Mid, Left sick at Rio.

Midshipman. Joined Peacock at Rio, schooner Flying-

Fish at Columbia river, and Vincennes
at Honolulu.

Captain's Clerk. Joined Vincennes at Callao.

Boatswain.

Gunner. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at

Columbia river.

WILLIAM RICH,

SCIENTIFIC CORPS.

Botanist. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes

at San Francisco.

XXXVI

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

ALFRED T. AGATE,

Artist.

Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vmcennea
at San Francisco.

UNITED STATES BRIG PORPOISE.

CADWALADER RINGGOLD,
M. G. L. CLAIBORNE,
H. J. HARTSTEIN,
JOHN B. DALE,
A. S. BALDWIN,

C. F. B. GUILLOU,

SIMON F. BLUNT,

GEO. W. COLVOCORESSIS,

THOMAS W. WALDRON,
O. NELSON,
AMOS CHICK,
JOHN JOINES,
WILLIAM H. MORSE,
JOHN FROST,

Lieutenant-Commandant

Lieutenant.
Lieutenant,
Lieutenant.
Acting Master.

Assistant Surg.

Passed Mid.
Passed Mid.

Captain's Clerk.

Boatswain.

Carpenter.

Sailmaker.

Purser's Steward.

Boatswain.

Joined Relief at Orange Bay.

Joined Relief at Callao.

Joined Relief at Callao.

Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at
Columbia river.

Joined Peacock at Sydney, Flying-Fish at
Columbia river, and detached at Hono-
lulu, November, 1841.

Joined Vincennes at Orange Bay, and
left sick at Honolulu, in April, 1841.

Joined Peacock at Rio, Vincennes at Fee-
jee, and Oregon at San Francisco.

Detached at Rio.

Joined Vincennes at Callao.

Detached at Callao; joined Relief.

JAMES W. E. REID,
FREDERICK A. BACON,
ISAAC PERCIVAL,

TENDER SEA-GULL.

LOST ABOUT MAY 1ST, 1839.

Passed Midshipman, Commandant.

Passed Mid.

Pilot. Joined Relief at Callao.

SAMUEL R. KNOX,
GEORGE W. HAMMERSLY,

RICHARD ELLICE,
II. A. CLEMSON,

EGBERT THOMPSON,

A. M. CESNEY,
E. H. DE HAVEN,

JAMES S. POWER,

TENDER FLYING-FISH.

SOLD AT SINGAPORE.

Commandant. Commanding schooner most of the cruise;

joined Vincennes at Singapore.
Midshipman. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes

at Fecjee.

Ac. Master's Mate. Detached; joined Relief at Rio.
Midshipman. Joined the Vincennes at Rio; detached at

Callao.
Midshipman. Joined Vincennes at Rio, Peacock at Feejee,

and Vincennes again at Columbia river.
Master's Mate. Detached at Honolulu.
Acting Master. Joined Vincennes at Callao, Peacock at

Fecjee, and Oregon at Columbia river.
Purser's Steward. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at

Columbia river.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

JOHN ANDERSON. Seaman.

JOSEPH R. ATKINS, Ord'y Seaman.

CHARLES ALLEN, Ord'y Seaman.

XXXV11

STEPHEN F. ANGELL,
JOSEPH C. ALLEN,
JEAN ANTONIA,

JOSEPH ALLSHOUSE,

JAMES ANDERSON,
JOHN ANDERSON,

JAMES ALLMAN,
SILAS ATKINS,
PETER ACKERMAN,

JOHN AYRES,
CHARLES ADAMS,
JOHN BROWN, 1st,

ROBERT BOYLE,
HENRY BUCKETT,

JOHN BROOKS,
HENRY BATCHELOR,
JOHN BLACK,
HENRY BLACKSTONE,
FRANKLIN BROWN,
DAVID BANKS,
PETER BROWN,

DAVID BARTLETT,
JOHN BROWN, 2d,

JOHN L. BLAKE,
JOHN BREMOT,

Joined in the United States; returned,

expiration of cruise.
Joined at Sydney; served to end of the

cruise.
Joined at Oahu; served to the end of the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Oahu; run at Oahu.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run at Hawaii.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Cape Town ; served to the end of

the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States ; died October

30th, 1841.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Callao ; killed by the natives at

Drummond Island.
Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Landsman. Joined at Callao ; run at Sydney.

Cooper. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

Seaman, Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Sydney.

Quarter Master. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Upolu, Nov. 10th,

1839.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

1st Class Boy. Joined at Rio; run at Sydney, Dec. 31st,

1839.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; discharged June 30th,

1840.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio; run at Callao, July 13th,

1839.

XXXV111 lj I S 1

O * O t t I C I

JOHN BUCKLEY,

Officers' Steward.

FREDERICK BEALE,
ANDREW A. BROWN,
SHELDEN BENEDICT,
JOHN BARTHOLOMEW,

Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Qr. Gunner.
Ord'y Seaman.

JOHN A. BROWN,
EBENEZER BARTHOLOMEW,
DERBY BATCHELOR,

Landsman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.

DAVID BATEMAN,

Private.

RICHARD BROTHERS,

Seaman.

JAMES BROWN,

Carpenter's Mate.

JOSEPH BASS,

Ord'y Seaman.

JAMES BERRY,
JOHN BAPTISTE,
JOHN W. BOYSON,

Seaman.
Seaman.
1st Class Boy.

JOHN F. BROWN,
ROBERT C. BERNARD,
ALEXANDER BOWMAN,
SAMUEL BROWN,

Seaman.
Quarter Master.
Seaman.
Capt. Forecastle.

WILLIAM BROWN, 2d,
ALEXANDER BARRON,

Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.

PETER BOWEN,
WALSTON BRADLEY,
WILLIAM BRUCE,
DAVY BEAL,

Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Landsman.

JOHN BROOKINS,
ARTIMEUS W. BEALS,
WILLIAM BOSTWICK,

Ord'y Seaman.
Capt. Hold.
Capt. Cook.

THEODORE BETON,
ROBERT BROWN,

Ord'y Seaman.
Boatsn's Mate.

WILLIAM BRISCO,

Armourer.

CHARLES BERRY,

Mast. Arms.

DAVID BURNS,

Officers' Cook.

: R S AND MEN.

Joined at Valparaiso; discharged at Cal-

lao, June, 1839.

Joined at Sydney ; run at New Zealand.
Joined at New Zealand ; served the cruise.
Joined at New Zealand; served the cruise.
Joined at Oahu ; run at Oahu, Nov. 26th,

1841.

Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.
Joined at Maui ; run at Oahu, Nov. 26th,

1841.
Joined in the United States ; died at Fee-

jee Islands, June 30th, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; sent home

from Rio, sick.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.
Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Joined at the Feejee Islands; run at

Oahu.

Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Joined at Oahu ; run at Singapore.
Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.
Joined at Rio ; run at Valparaiso.
Joined at Valparaiso ; run at Callao.
Joined at Valparaiso; run at Sydney.
Joined at Callao; left sick in charge of

Consul at Sydney.
Joined at Upolu ; served the cruise.
Joined at Upolu ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; returned in

Relief.
Joined in the United States ; returned in

Relief.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.
JOHN B. BROWN,
JOSEPH BRIMBLECOMB,

XXXIX

Seaman.
Seaman.

Joined in the United States ; returned in

Relief.
Joined in the United States ; returned in

Relief.

PATRICK BOYLE, 1st Class Boy. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.

THOMAS BURKE, Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
PHILIP BABB, Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
GEORGE BUTTER, Officers' Cook. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

DAVID BLODGET, Officers' Cook. Joined in the United States ; died at Navi-

gator's Islands, Nov. 6th, 1839.
JACOB BOLIN, Capt. Forecastle. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
FRANCIS BAKER, Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

HENRY BINGHAM, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

GARRET COLE, Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
W. H. CUMMINGS, Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
MASON CROWELL, Landsman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
JOHN COOPER, Armourer. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
JAMES CUMMINGS, Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
ISAAC CARMEY, 1st Class Boy. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
CHARLES J. COLSON, Hosp. Steward. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
DANIEL CLUTE, Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; lost in the

Sea-Gull.
ROSWELL CANN, 1st Class Boy. Joined in the United States ; lost in the

Sea-Gull.

JAMES CORSE, Seaman. Joined at Rio ; sent home in Relief.

WILLIAM CLARK, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; served out the cruise.

EZEKIEL COOPER, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run, same place.

JASPER CROPSEY, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

TOM COFFIN, Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run at Hawaii.

GEORGE CROKER, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Hawaii ; run at Oahu.

DAVID CROPSEY, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.

GEORGE CASE, Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

EPHRAIM COFFIN, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; discharged at California.

JOSEPH CLARK, Corp'l Marines. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
ROBERT CAMPBELL, Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

xl LIST

LAWRENCE CAVENAUGH,
JOSEPH CLARK,
ISAAC COOK,
JOHN H. COLE,
CHARLES CLIFFORD,

PAUL CAMELL,
CHARLES CHANCY,
JAMES CUNNINGHAM,
RICHARD COOPER,
LEVIN CLARK,

GAYLORD P. CHURCHILL,
JOSHUA GARY,
JAMES CRONTU,

JOSEPH CROSBY,

ALFRED CASSEDY,
WILLIAM CLEGG,

JOHN COOK,
WILLIAM CARTER,
JOHN COOK,

CHARLES CHAPMAN,
JAMES COBURN,
GEORGE COOK,

VALENTINE DISTER,
JEROME DAVIS,
JOHN DOUGHTY,
JOHN DEMOCK,
JOHN DISMOND,
JAMES DUNN,
ALEXANDER DUNN,

OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

Private.
Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Capt. Top.

Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, 2d November, 1840.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, 2d November, 1840.

Officers' Steward. Joined at Valparaiso ; run at Sydney.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; run at Sydney.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; run at Tahiti.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Upolu ; run at Sydney.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at

Sydney.
Carpenter's Mate. Joined in the United States ; returned in

Relief.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States; run at Callao,
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

Relief.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; returned in

Relief.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Capt. Top. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at New Zealand; served the cruise.
2d Class Boy. Joined at Oahu ; discharged same place,

November 19th, 1841.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; transferred

to Independence, at Rio.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Officers' Steward. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Cockswain. Joined in the United States; discharged

at Rio, November 30th, 1838.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

xli

JOHN W. DIVIN,

CHRISTIAN DOBLEMAN,

JAMES DANIELS,
JAMES DOWLING, 1st,
JOHN N. DEAN,
JOHN E. DAY,

JOHN DAVIS, 1st,
HARVEY DEAJJ,
JOHN DAVIS, 2d,
JAMES DOWLING, 2d,
CHARLES DUEGEN,
JOHN DISBROW,

ADDISON DUNBAR,

WILLIAM DAMMON,
GEORGE DAILY,
WILLIAM DAILY,
STEPHEN W. DAYS,

SOLOMON DISNEY,

JOSEPH DOLEVAR,
THOMAS DEWEES,

THOMAS DERLING,
SAMUEL DINSMAN,

JOSEPH DE SILVA,
SAMUEL DINSMAN,
DAVID D ALTON,
THOMAS DICKENSON,

WILLIAM DILLON,
JAMES DERLEY,
CHARLES ERSKIN,

GEORGE ELLIOTT,
W. H. ELDRIDGE,
HENRY EVANS,

SAMUEL EASTMAN,
VOL. 1.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.
Master-at-Arms. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at New Zealand.
Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at New Zealand.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; served the cruise.
Landsman. Joined at New Zealand ; served out the

cruise.

1 st Class Boy. Joined at New Zealand ; run at Oahu.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run at Singapore.
Seaman, Joined at Oahu ; run at Hawaii.

Landsman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; returned in Relief.

Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Hosp. Steward. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Sailmaker's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.

Corporal. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; run at Oahu.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
1st Class Boy. Joined at Rio ; transferred to Falmouth at

Callao.
Corp'l Marines. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Officers' Steward. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Carpenter's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at Oahu.
Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

1st Class Boy. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Cape Town ; served the cruise.
Officers' Cook. Joined in the United States ; run at Fort

George, Columbia River.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, October 31st, J840.

xlii

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

WILLIAM EASTWOOD,
JAMES ELLIOTTE,

WILLIAM FRAZIEK,
JOHN FENNO,

HENRY A. FELSON,
WILLIAM FORSDICK,

JOHN FISK,
THOMAS FORD,
WILLIAM FRAZIER, 2d,
EDWARD Fox,
FREDERICK FRIENDS,
MATTHEW FRANCISCO,
ALEXANDER C. FOWLER,

JOHN FRANCIS,
JAMES FRITZ,
STEPHEN FOSDICK,

ROBERT FURMAN,
THEODORE FRENCH,
KINNARD FOREMAN,
ISAAC FRIETUS,
ROBERT FLETCHER,

VINCENT FRIETUS,
WILLIAM FINNEY,
JOSEPH FRANCIS,
HENRY GROSS,
LYMAN GAYLARD,

WILLIAM GILLAN,
MATTHEW GARRIGAN,
JAMES H. GIBSON,

JAMES H. GREY,
JAMES GRAHAM,

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Gunner's Mate. Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.

Seaman. Joined in the United States; run at Sydney.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served out

the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served out

the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Oahu,

Oct. 31st, 1840.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served out the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served out the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; lost in the Sea-Gull.
Officers' Steward. Joined at Sydney ; discharged at Oahu.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served out the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; discharged same place.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served out

the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Qr. Gunner. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Gunner's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, 31st Oct. 1840.
Ship's Cook. Joined in the United States ; discharged

5th August, 1839.
Sailmaker's Mate. Joined atCallao; returned to United States

in the Relief.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Madeira; discharged March

31st, 1840.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.

2d Class Boy. Joined at Rio ; run at Valparaiso.

Landsman. Joined at Callao ; run at Oahu.

Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; discharged at same place.

Officers' Cook. Joined in the United States ; run at Oahu.
Carpenter's Mate. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Landsman. Joined in the United States; sent home in

the Relief.
Cockswain. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Oahu.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

xliii

JOHN GRIEM,
JAMES GREEN,

BARNEY GIBBONS,
FRANCIS GARRISON,
MADISON GREEN,
JOSEPH M'GOMEY,

HENRY GREENFIELD,
DANIEL GREEN,
THOMAS GREEN,
NATHANIEL GOODHUE,
JOHN P. GRIFFEN,

Lumvic GRAVES,
ROBERT GOODWIN,
THOMAS GORDEN,
GRIFFITH GRIFFITH,

FERGUS GALLAGHER,
JOHN GAUNT,

DOMINGO GONZALEZ,
JOHN A. GARDNER,
MOSES GALCHELL,
JOHN GORDEN,

JOHN GILLIN,
EZRA GREEN,
JOSEPH GUNDY,
JOHN GREEN,

WILLIAM GOODMAN,
JOHN GLOVER,
MANUEL GUIDO,

JAMES GREY,
EDWIN HUBBARD,

Seaman. Joined in the United States; transferred

to the Independence.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Landsman. Joined at Rio ; run at Valparaiso.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run, April 9th, 1840.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; discharged at Oahu,

Oct. 31st, 1840.
Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Gunner's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Capt. Fore-top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-

ney.
Cooper. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; sent home

sick from Madeira.

Seaman. Joined at Rio; returned in the Relief.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; run at Oahu.
Seaman. Joined at Callao ; run at Tahiti.

Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Yeoman. Joined in the United States: served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.
Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Capt. Top. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.

2d Class Boy. Joined at Madeira ; returned to United

States in the Relief.
Pilot. Joined at Tongataboo; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

xliv LIST

OF OFFIC

THOMAS HARDEN,

Officers' Cook.

JAMES HARRISON,

Officers' Steward.

JOHN HARMON,

Capt Forecastle.

JOHN HARMON,

Seaman.

WILLIAM HYDE,

Carpenter's Mate.

LEWIS HERRON,

Cooper.

JAMES HENDERSON,

Quarter.Master.

LYRANUS HATCH,

Seaman.

HENRY HUGHES,

Ord'y Seaman.

HENRY R. HEYER,

Quarter-Master.

HENRY HUDSON,

Seaman.

LAWRENCE HUFFORD,

Seaman.

JAMES HASKINS,

1st Class Boy.

JAMES HAGGERTY,

Ord'y Seaman.

WILLIAM H. HICKS,

Ord'y Seaman.

ROYAL HOPE,
JOHN HARRIS,
CHAS. E. HORNISTON,
DAVID HAINING,
ANTONIO HERNANDEZ,

Landsman.
Landsman.
Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Officers' Steward.

WM. HUTCHINSON,

WlNSLOW F. HlGGINS,

JOHN HALL,
JOHN HELLENDER,
GEORGE HUSTED,

Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Seaman.
Quarter-Master.

JACOB HARRID,

Seaman.

SAMUEL HOBSEN,

Armourer.

EDWARD HILL,

Seaman.

ROBINSON HICKS,
JOHN HUGHES,

Ord'y Seaman.
2d Class Boy.

Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; discharged

at Madeira
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at New Zealand.
Joined in the United States; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; sent home

in the Relief.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.
Joined in the United States; sent home in

the Relief.

Joined at Rio ; run at Oahu.
Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.
Joined at Rio ; run at Valparaiso.
Joined at Rio ; lost in the Sea- Gull.
Joined at Callao ; discharged at California.
Joined at Hawaii ; served the cruise.
Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.
Joined at Cape Town ; served the cruise.
Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; run at

Callao.
Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.

Joined in the United States; run at Sydney.
Joined at Callao ; run at Oahu.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

xlv

JOHN HAGGERTY,
JOHN HARRISON,
ASA HART,

EMANUEL HOWARD,
JOHN HARMAN,
ARTHUR HUGHES,
AMOS HOWELL,
JOHN C. HEAD,
WM. P. HEFFERMAN,
JAMES G. HANBURY,
SANTO HERCULES,
SAMUEL B. HOLT,
JAMES HUNT,
BENJAMIN HOLDEN,
ALVIN HARRIS,
NATHANIEL HARRIS,
WILLIAM HAYES,
JAMES HAYES,
HENRY HAMMOND,
LEWIS HANSON,

THOMAS HIKES,
FRANCIS G. HOGGINS,

WILLIAM JARRETT,
WILLIAM JOHNSON,
ARCHIBALD JACKSON,
FRANCIS JOSEPH,

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Upolu ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run at Singapore.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Capt. Hold. Joined in the United States ; sent home

from Rio, sick.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Hosp. Steward. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged in

New Zealand.
Capt. Hold. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, October 31st, 1840.
Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States ; died at Cal-

lao, July 8th, 1839.
Sailmaker's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

New Zealand, 31st March, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; discharged at Sydney,

Dec. 16th, 1839.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Sandwich Islands ; served the

cruise.
Master-at-Arms. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, October 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; sent home in

the Relief.
1st Class Boy. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

xlvi

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

THOMAS JONES,

FRANCIS JOHNSON,
ROBERT JOHNSON,
WILLIAM JONES, 1st,
JOHN JOSEPH,
WILLIAM JONES,
CHARLES JORFF,
DAVID JONES,
WILLIAM JEWELL,

WILLIAM JEFFRIES,
SAMUEL J. JORDON,
A. JACO.UINOT,
WARREN JOHNSON,

JOHN JONES,
THOMAS JEFFERSON,

DANIEL JEFFERSON,

HENRY JOHNSON,
ELIJAH KING,

THOMAS KENNEDY,
STEPHEN KNIGHT,

Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.

Seaman.
Ship's Cook.

CHARLES KNOWLES,

RICHARD KING,
WM. H. KING,

CHARLES KINGSLAND,
ALLEN W. KIRBY,

JOHN KELLUM,
SAMUEL KEENAN,
JOHN KEDD,
JOHN KING,
JOSEPH LIMONT,
FRANCIS LINTHICUM,
GODFREY LETOURNO,

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; sent home

in the Relief.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; sent home in the Relief.
Seaman. Joined at Rio ; lost in the Sea-Gull.

Seaman. Joined at Rio; run at the same place.

Capt.'s Steward. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at same place.
Ass't Sc. Corps. Joined at Rio ; run at Callao.
Officers' Steward. Joined at Oahu ; run at Fort George,

Oregon.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.

Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Joined at Rio ; run at the same place.
Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.
Corp. Marines. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Upolu ; served the cruise.
Capt. Hold. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-

ney.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Cockswain. Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, October 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

xlvii

PETER LEWIS,
JOHN LATTY,
WM. J. LESTER,
WM. LAWRENCE,
DAVID LEAVITT,
CHARLES LEAR,
LAWRENCE LITTLEYEAR,

Ord'y Seaman.
1st Class Boy.
Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Private.

CHARLES LOWE,

Seaman.

WILLIAM LLOYD,

Capt. Top.

WILLIAM LOWE,
JOHN LEWIS,
WASHINGTON LYNER,
HENRY LUTHER,
JOHN LENNARD,

Seaman.
Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.
Seaman.
Seaman.

WILLIAM LEE,
JAMES LEAVETT,

Seaman.
Capt. Top.

PETER LINES,

Ord'y Seaman.

WM. S. LONGLEY,

Seaman.

BERNARD LOGAN,

Ord'y Seaman.

HORACE LAMSON,

Ord'y Seaman.

JAMES LOWELL,

Capt. Forecastle.

JOHN LOYD,

Ord'y Seaman.

WILLIAM LOYD,

Landsman.

LAURENCE M'Giix,

Ord'y Seaman.

WM. M'DONALD,

Seaman.

HENRY MABEE,

Seaman.

DANIEL M'CARTY,

Quarter-Gunner.

FRANCIS MONTSERAT,

Officers' Steward.

JAMES MORAN,

1st Class Boy.

JOHN M'lvEEN,

Ship's Cook.

Joined at Rio ; served out the cruise.
Joined at Rio ; served out the cruise.
Joined at Rio ; served out the cruise.
Joined at Valparaiso; run at Sydney.
Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.
Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States; sent home in

the Relief.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Joined at Oahu ; discharged same place.
Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Joined at Rio ; run at Valparaiso.
Joined at Rio ; sent to the United States

in Relief.

Joined at Callao ; run at Sydney.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; returned in

the Relief.
Joined at Valparaiso ; sent to United

States in Relief.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-
ney.
Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.

Joined in the United States ; run at Ma-
nilla.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-
ney.
Joined in the United States; discharged

at Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

xlviii

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

JOHN MYRES,
THOMAS M'MANUS,
WILLIAM MILLER, 1st,

JOHN MATTOX,
ALEXANDER M'DONALD,

WM. MILLER, 2d,
JUSTIN MANDON,
ANDREW MURRAY,
JOSEPH MEDLEY,
EDWARD M'!NTIRE,
JAMES M'KENZIE,

SAMUEL MORE,

PETER M'FEE,
JOHN H. MYRES,
THOMAS MIZIR,
ARTHUR M'GiLL,

FRANK MACKEY,
ROBERT MONROE,
JOHN MUNROE,
BERNARD M'GEE,
LEWIS MEAKER,

WILLIAM MIGLEY,
JOHN MEINEY,

GEORGE MITCHELL,
THEODORE MATHER,
EDWARD MOTT,
HUGH M'BRIDE,
JOHN C. MARCH,

JAMES M'CORMICK,
MICHAEL MILLER,
DAVID MILLER,
JAMES MARSHALL,
WILLIAM MOODY,

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; lost in the

Sea-Gull.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Landsman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Callao.
Captain's Cook. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at Oahu.

Seaman. Joined at New Zealand ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Cape Town ; served the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Nov. 20th, 1841.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
2d Class Boy. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
1st Class Boy. Joined at Tahiti; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Upolu; discharged at Oahu,

Nov. 20th, 1841.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; run at Sydney.

Seaman. Joined at Callao ; run at Sydney.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; discharged at Oahu,

25th Nov. 1840.
Quarter-Gunner. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Master-at-Arms. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Quarter-Master. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Upolu ; served the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; died at sea,

15th August, 1839.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

xlix

JOHN MORE,
THOMAS MARTIN,

JOHN MITCHELL,
STEPHEN MORANT,
EARL MILLIKIN,
JACK MILLER,

JAMES NOWLAND,
WILLIAM NORTON,

EDWARD NICHOLS,
JOHN NEBHUT,

HORATIO NELSON,
NELSON NORTON,
WILLIAM NOBLE,

THOMAS NOBLE,
GEORGE NICHOLS,
JOSEPH NEALE,
CHAS. H. NICHOLSON,

WILLIAM NEILL,
ANDREW NORDSTON,
JAMES NURSE,
BENJAMIN NORTON,

THOMAS NISBET,
WILLIAM ORR,

ALEXANDER OGLE,
JOHN ORR,

AMBROSE W. OLIVAR,
DANIEL OSMAND,
DAVID B. PARK,
THOMAS FINER,

Seaman. Joined in the United States; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Landsman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at Oahu.

Quarter-Gunner. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Sandwich Islands ; served the

cruise.

Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; run at Sydney.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Cape Town ; served the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Val-

paraiso.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; sent home in the Relief.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; run at Sydney.
Officers' Cook. Joined at Callao ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Nov. 25th, 1841.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the TJnited States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Officers' Steward. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Rio, Dec. 3d, 1838.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Singapore ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Corp. Marines. Joined in the United States; died at sea,

Aug. 12th, 1839.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Val-

paraiso.
Sailmaker's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

VOL. I.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

GEORGE PORTER,

BENJAMIN FULMAR,
THOMAS PARKER,
WILLIAM PEARSON,
CALVIN PROCTOR,
JAMES PERRY,
GEORGE PARKER,

THOMAS PENNY,
JAMES M. POTTLE,

JAMES PATTERSON,
SAMUEL PENSYL,
ROBERT FULLY,
JOHN POLNELL,

JAMES POTTER,
GEORGE PARMILLA,
JAMES QUIN,

CHARLES RAY,
WM. ROBERTS,
THEODORE RAMERIS,

JOSEPH REEVES,
WILLIAM ROBINSON,

WILLIAM ROBBIN,

MICHAEL RYAN,
WILLIAM ROBB,
JOHN RIVERS,
JOHN ROACH,
ABRAHAM ROBERTS,
GEORGE ROCKET,

JAMES ROCK,
JOHN RADLEY,
GEORGE ROBI NSON,
EDGAR A. RICHARDSON,

OWEN ROBERTS,

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; died at sea,

March 3d, 1842.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; run at

Sydney.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Oahu.
Private. Joined in the United States ; run at Val-

paraiso.
Landsman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Private. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Gunner. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at New Zealand ; run at Oahu.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
1st Class Boy. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Val-
paraiso.

Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.

] st Class Boy. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.
1st Class Boy. Joined at Rio; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; lost in the Sea-Gull.
Landsman. Joined at Sydney ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at New Zealand; served the cruise.
Landsman. Joined at New Zealand ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run at California.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Maui ; served the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

li

GEORGE RODGERS,
JOHN ROBINSON,

HUMPHREY ROBERTS,
MATTHIAS ROACH,
MORRIS RUSSEL,
ELIAS RUSSEL,
JOHN RYE,

JOHN RILEY,
WM. RICHMOND,
JOHN D. RICHARDSON,

JOSEPH REBO,
JAMES G. ROWE,

GEORGE REYNOLDS,

Private.

Capt. Forecastle.

Armourer.
Ord'y Seaman.
Landsman.
Ship's Cook.
Seaman.

Private.
Boatsn's Mate.
Cooper.

2d Class Boy.
Seaman.

Ord'y Seaman.

RAY.VOND RKED,
NELSON RANSOM,

Seaman.
Seaman.

GEORGE SMITH,

Seaman.

WILLIAM J. SMITH,

Quarter-Master.

THOMAS SINCLAIR,

Seaman.

JAMES STRAHAM,

Seaman.

JOHN SAC,

Seaman.

DAVID SMITH,

Ord'y Seaman.

JAMES SHEAF,

Ord'y Seaman.

JOHN W. SMITH,

Seaman.

EDWARD SOUTHWORTH,

Quarter-Master.

ALLEN SIMONS,

Ord'y Seaman.

JAMES SMITH, 1st,

Seaman.

JOHN SMITH, 1st,
JOHN SMITH, 2d,

Ord'y Seaman.
Ord'y Seaman.

Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Joined at Sydney ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Joined in the United States ; run at Callao.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; died at sea,

Aug. 22d, 1839.

Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Joined it Sandwich Islands ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Rio, Nov. 28th, 1838.
Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Sydney, 19th March, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Joined in the United States; run at Val-
paraiso.

Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-
ney.

Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Joined in the United States; lost in the

Sea-Gull.

lii

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

JAMES SMITH, 2d,
JOHN SMALL,

WILLIAM SOULE,
MOSES J. SMITH,
WM. II. SPENCER,
FREDERICK SEYMORE,
GEORGE STAUNTON,
PETER SWEENY,

JAMES SCOTT,
JAMES STOVER,
THOMAS SIMMONS,
JOSEPH SILVEY,

MICHAEL SPINEY,
WILLIAM SMITH, 2d,
SIMEON STEARNS,

WILLIAM SMITH,
JOHN H. STEVENS,
CHARLES C. SHERWOOD,
ANTONIO SYLVESTER,
WILLIAM STEWARD,

PETER SHAW,
WILLIAM SLATER,
FRANCIS SALSBURY,

FRANK SMITH,
THOMAS SCOTT,
BENJAMIN STEVENS,
HENDRICK SMITH,

SAMUEL STEWARD,
JOHN SMITH,
GEORGE SEABOLD,
ROBERT STEWARD,
JAMES SPEAR,
JAMES SWEENEY,
JOHN SMITH,

SIMON SHEPHERD,
JAMES DE SAULS,

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; lost in the

Sea-Gull.

Baker. Joined at Rio; discharged at New Zea-

land.

Landsman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at Oahu.
Seaman. Joined at New Zealand ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.

Seaman. Joined at New Zealand ; run at Oahu.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Hawaii ; run at same place.
1st Class Boy. Joined at Maui ; died at sea, April 19th,

1842.

Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

1st Class Boy. Joined at Oahu; discharged at same place.
Orderly Sergeant. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; drowned at Feejee.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Tahiti ; run at Sydney.
Seaman. Joined at Rio ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu; run at same place.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; died at sea,

llth March, 1839.

Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Officers' Steward. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Nov. 2d, 1840.

Landsman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Sydney.

Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Aurora Island.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; run at Aurora Island.
Armourer. Joined at Valparaiso; run at Sydney.

Seaman. Joined at Sydney ; run at Oahu.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Feejee Islands ; discharged at

same place.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ship's Cook. Joined at Callao ; run at Astoria.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

liii

J. SOMERNDYKE,

JOHN SMITH,

GEORGE SHARROCK,
ROBERT SPEARS,

SAMUEL SUTTON,

JOHN STRAFFORD,
GEORGE SMITH,

THOMAS SANDFORD,
WILLIAM SMITH,
JOHN STEWARD,
SAMUEL STRETCH,
DAVID M. SMITH,
WM. SCHENCK,

THOMAS SCARPA,
HENRY SARES,
JAMES STARK,

HENRY STEPHENS,
THOMAS SHOR,

GEORGE SUDOR,
RICHARD TERRY,
HENRY TURNER,
JAMES TOWNSEND,
GEORGE TREBLE,
MATTHEW THOMPSON,
HENRY TUBOR,
JOHN THOMPSON, 1st.

JOHN THOMPSON, 3d,
SAMUEL TABER,

Carpenter's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Carpenter's Mate. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.

Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Yeoman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Ship's Cook. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Gunner's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Armourer. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Carpenter's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Officers' Steward. Joined at Rio ; discharged at same place.
Capt. Top. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; discharged at Sydney,

Dec. 15th, 1839.

1 st Class Boy. Joined at Sydney ; run at New Zealand.
Seaman. Joined at the Sandwich Islands ; served

the cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; sent home in

the Relief.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; lost in the

Sea-Gull.
Capt. Forecastle. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Capt. Top. Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.
Seaman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.

Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-

ney.

1st Class Boy. Joined at Sydney ; run at same place.
1st Class Boy. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.

liv

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

JOHN TRACK,

Seaman.

ASHTON TAYLOR,

Private.

DAVID THOMAS,

Officers' Cook.

ABIJAH TRAVERSE,

Ord'y Seaman.

EEWARD TOWN-SEND,

Ord'y Seaman.

HENRY THOMPSON,

Landsman

HUMPHREY THOMAS,

Ord'y Seaman.

JOHN THOMPSON, 2d,

Capt. Forecastle.

WM. W. TURNER,

Quarter-Gunner.

CHARLES THOMAS,

Seaman.

EDWIN THENE,

Seaman.

WILLIAM THOMPSON,

Seaman.

WILLIAM TENEYCKE,

Seaman.

CHARLES TRUELARE,

Ord'y Seaman.

JOHN UNDIETCH,

Ord'y Seaman.

JOHN VANCLECK,

Seaman.

EDWARD VERRY,

Ord'y Seaman.

JOHN VANDERVEER,

Seaman.

ANTONIA VINES,

Officers' Steward.

GEORGE WESSON,

Seaman.

JAMES WILKINSON,

Seaman,

SAMUEL WILLIAMS,

Gunner's Mate.

DANIEL WRIGHT,

Cockswain.

EDWARD WIDDOWS,

Seaman.

JAMES C. WALFE,

Quarter-Gunner.

BENJAMIN WEBB,

Ord'y Seaman.

ROBERT WILLIS,

Seaman.

THOMAS WILSON,

Sailmaker's Mate.

Joined at Oahu ; discharged same place.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

Joined at Feejee Islands; served the cruise.
Joined at Oahu; served the cruise.
Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Joined in the United States ; run at Callao.
Joined at Upolu ; run at Sydney.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oahu, Oct. 3lst, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; run at Syd-
ney.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; sent home

in the Relief.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined at Valparaiso; sent home in the

Relief.

Joined at Callao ; sent home in the Relief.
Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.
Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; discharged at

Oahu, Oct. 31st, 1840.
Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.
Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

Iv

HORACE WISTER,
HENRY WALTHAM,
MARK WIDDEN,
PHILIP WILLIAMS,

NICHOLAS WHITESTON,
JOSIAH WEAVER,
THOMAS WILKINS,
CHARLES WILLIS,
ZACCHEUS WHEELER,
JOHN WELLER,
MICHAEL WARD,

JAMES WILLIAMS,

JOHN A. WEAVER,
WILLIAM WHITE,
JEDEDIAH WILBER,
JOHN WILLIAMS,
THOMAS L. WILLIAMS,
JOHN WHITE, 2d,
STEPHEN WINKS,
WILLIAM WELLS,
GEORGE WILLIAMS,

JAMES WHITE,
KEMBAL WHITNEY,
JOHN WILSON,
AARON WALMSLEY,
DANIEL WHITEHORN,
NOAH WYETH,

JOSEPH WILSON,
PETER WELSH,

WILLIAM WILSON,
HENRY C. WILLIAMS,
MICHAEL WILLIAMS,

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; discharged

at Oaliu, March 31st, 1841.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Landsman. Joined in the United States; returned in

the Relief.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; returned in

the Relief.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Rio ; lost in the Sea-Gull.
1st Class Boy. Joined at New Zealand ; run at Oahu.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; run at Hawaii.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Oahu ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Cape Town ; served the cruise.
Private. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Landsman. Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.

Seaman. Joined at Valparaiso; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Callao ; served the cruise.
2d Class Boy. Joined at Sydney ; served the cruise.

Seaman. Joined at Upolu ; served the cruise.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States; run at Rio.
Yeoman. Joined at Valparaiso ; served the cruise.

Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Capt. Forecastle. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Call-

fornia.
Sergeant Marines. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Gunner. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States; discharged at

Rio, Dec. 31st, 1838.

Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; run at Rio.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.
Quarter-Master. Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.
Landsman. Joined in the United States; served the

cruise.
Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.

jv-t LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN.

FRANCIS WILLIAMS, Boatsn's Mate. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
THOMAS WALLACE, 1st Class Boy. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
JACK WILLIAMS, Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; served the

cruise.
WILLIAM YORK, Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States ; sent home in

the Relief.

HENRY YOUNG, 1st, Ord'y Seaman. Joined at Hawaii ; served the cruise.

HENRY YOUNG, 2d, Ord'y Seaman. Joined in the United States; discharged at

New Zealand.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME I.

PORTRAIT OF COMMANDER C.
ESTROZA PASS, MADEIRA.
HEATH FOREST, MADEIRA.
PATAGONIAN.

FUEGIAN.

LIMA GATEWAY.

LA VINDA MOUNTAIN.

BANGS, PERU.

CURRAL, MADEIRA.
PORTO PRAYA.
CORCOVADO, Rio JANEIRO.
PARHELION.
ORANGE HARBOUR.
VOL. I.

PLATES.

WILKES, U. S. N. Painted by T. Sully.

Engraved by R. W. Dodson, TITLE

Drawn by J. Drayton.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin, 3

Drawn by J. Drayton.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin, 14

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, 93
Drawn by J. Drayton.

Engraved by Jordan and Halpin, 119

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by A. Halbert, 229

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, 257
Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by Rawdon, Wright and Hatch, 263

VIGNETTES.

Drawn by J. Drayton.

Engraved by W. E. Tucker, 12

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.

Engraved by W. H. Ellis, 29

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.

Engraved by Smillie and Hinchelwood, 65
Sketched by J. B. Dale, U. S. N.

Engraved by W. H. Dougal, 109

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by D. Kimberly, 120

Iviii

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FuEGIANS AND CAN'OE.

PORPOISE AND SCHOONER.
CORDILLERAS, CHILI.
MARKET-PLACE, ST. JAGO.

VlGA OF THE CoNCON.

AMANCAES, PERU.
COOKING AT CASA CANCHA.
Low CORAL ISLAND.
HIGH CORAL ISLAND.
DEAN'S ISLAND.

Drawn by J. Drayton.

Engraved by W. H. Dougal, 123

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.

Engraved by Jordan and Hal pin, 138

Drawn by J. Drayton.

Engraved by V. Balch, 179

Sketched by J. Drayton.

Engraved by J. F. E. Prudhomme, 183

Sketched by J. P. Couthouy.

Engraved by M. Osborne, 189

Sketched by J. Drayton.

Engraved by J. N. Gimbrede, 245

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by E. G. Dunnel, 259

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by M. Osborne, 311

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by W. H. Tappan, 338

Drawn by A. T. Agate.

Engraved by W. H. Tappan, 342

MADEIRA SLEDGE.
PEASANT'S HOUSE.
WINE-CARRIERS.
WINE-PRESS,

MADEIRA BOAT.
WATERING-PLACE,

COFFEE-CARRIERS.

Music.

MINA, NEGRO.
TATTOOINGS.

ASHANTEE.
TATTOOINGS.

MUNDJOLA,
TATTOOINGS.

BENGUELAN.

CONGO NEGRO.

KASAXGI.

TATTOOING.

MAKUAN.

TAKWANI.

CAFFRE PROPER.

WOOD-CUTS.

Sketched by J. Drayton.* Engraved by F. E. Worcester,
Sketched by J. Drayton.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Sketched by J. Drayton.* Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.* Engraved by F. E. Wor-
cester,

Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
PORTO PRAYA. Sketched by J. B. Dale, U. S. N.f Engraved by

R. H. Pease,

Sketched by J. Drayton.* Engraved by F. E. Worcester,
Sketched by J. Drayton,

Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by J. Drayton and A. T. Agate. Engraved by

B. F. Childs,

Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by J. Drayton and A. T. Agate. Engraved by

B. F. Childs,

Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by J. Drayton and A. T. Agate. Engraved by
B. F. Childs,

Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate.
Sketched by A. T. Agate,

Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly.
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,

10
19
20

21
24

41
53
53
54

56
56

57

59

59
59
60
60
60
61
62
62

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

lix

Engraved by B. F. Childs,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,
Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

Engraved by R. H.

TATTOOJNGS. Sketched by A. T. Agate.

NYAMBANA. Sketched by A. T. Agate.

MUDJANA. Sketched by A. T. Agate.

SLAVES SLEEPING. Sketched by J. Drayton.*

PALACE. Sketched by J. Drayton.

ESTANCIA. Sketched by J. Drayton.*

GUACHO. Sketched by J. Drayton.*

MIRAGE. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.

Pease,

MIRAGE. Sketched by T. R. Peale. Engraved by R. H. Pease,

PATAGONIANS. Sketched by A. T. Agate.f Engraved by J. H. Brightly,

FUEGIAN PADDLES. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,

NATIVE FUEGIAN. Sketched by J. Drayton.}: Engraved by R. S. Gilbert,

FUEGIAN HUT. Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by F. E. Worcester,

Music. Sketched by J. Drayton,

Music. Sketched by J. Drayton,

NATIVE HUT. Sketched by J. A. Underwood, U. S. N.f Engraved by J. H.

Brightly, 129

Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by B. F. Childs, 135
Sketched by J. B. Dale, U. S. N. Engraved by R. H. Pease, 145

62
63
63

75

89

97

102

110
110
115
116
122
124
125
127

HEIGHT OF WAVES.

CAPE HORN.

RELIEF AT NOIR ISLAND. Sketched by A. T. Agate.f Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Music. Sketched by J. Drayton,

TAKING GRASS TO MARKET. Sketched by J. Drayton.f

PEASANT'S HOUSE.

OX-CART.

STIRRUPS, SPURS, &c.

HEARSE.

PIZARRO'S AUTOGRAPH.
GATEWAY, LIMA.
HOUSE, LIMA.
PLAN OF PASCO.
TEMPLE, PACHACAMAC.

Engraved by R. H. Pease,

Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton. f Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N.f Engraved by J. H.

Brightly,

Engraved by J. H. Manning,

Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by F. E. Worcester,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by J. A. Underwood, U. S. N. Engraved by B. F.

Childs,
GROUND PLAN OF PACHACAMAC. Sketched by J. A. Underwood, U. S. N. Engraved

by B. F. Childs,

CHURCH AT BANGS. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by O'Brien,

FOUNTAIN, LIMA. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. H. Brightly,

SECTION OF CORAL ISLAND. Sketched by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by J. H.

Brightly,

Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by O'Brien,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton.f Engraved by O'Brien,
Sketched by A. T. Agate.f Engraved by J. H. Brightly,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Eng. aved by R. H. Pease,
Sketched by J. Drayton. Engraved by J. J. Butler,
Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. II. Brightly,
GROUP. Sketched by J. Drayton.f Engraved by J. H.
Brightly,

CANOE.

HEAD OF NATIVE.

NATIVES.

NATIVE HUT.

TATTOOING.

DOUBLE CANOE.

ONE-HANDED CHIEF.

NATIVE OF PAUMOTU

161
169
173
180
208
225

240
242

247
250
267

279

280
281
304

316
319
319
322
323
326
327
329

333

lx LISTOFILLUSTRATIONS.

CORAL BLOCKS. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. H. Pease, 334

COSTUME. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by R. S. Gilbert, 339

TRADING CANOE. Sketched by A. T. Agate. Engraved by J. H. Brightly, 345

DIAGRAM OF A BASE-LINE BT SOUND. Drawn by C. Wilkes, U. S. N. Engraved by

J. J. Bailor, 387

DIAGRAM OF SURVEY. Drawn by F. D. Stuart. Engraved by J. H. Brightly, 431

MAPS.

PAUMOTU GROUP. Engraved by Smith, 307

Those marked with a *, were drawn on the wood by F. O. C. Darley ; those marked
with a f, by J. H. Manning ; those marked with a J, by W. G. Armstrong. Those not
marked, by the Artists of the Expedition,

CHAPTER I.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE FROM THE UNITED STATES — VOYAGE TO MADEIRA — ARRIVAL AT
FUNCHAL — APPEARANCE OF MADEIRA FROM THE SEA — LANDING AT FUNCHAL —
VISIT TO THE CIVIL AND MILITARY GOVERNORS — STREETS, AND MODE OF TRANS-
PORTATION—CRIMINALS AND PRISONS— VILLA OF CARVALHAL— CONVENT— RIDES IN
MADEIRA— CURRAL— VISIT OF SCIENTIFIC GENTLEMEN TO SAN VINCENTE— EXCUR
SrON TOWARDS THE EAST END OF THE ISLAND — STORY OF ITS DISCOVERY —
POPULATION OF MADEIRA — WINE — GOVERNMENT — CHARACTER OF THE INHABI-
TANTS — DRESS — DWELLINGS — MODE OF TRAVELLING — EMPLOYMENTS OF THE
PEOPLE - WINE-MAKING — LOWER CLASSES — ASCENT OF PICO RUIVO — NATURAL
HISTORY — dUINT A OF MR. BEAN— SCHOONER STAR SAVED FROM WRECK— DEPAR-
TURE FROM MADEIRA.

MADEIRA. r

<J

direction of the Gulf Stream towards the Western Islands. We felt
its influence until \ve reached the longitude of 48° W., and found it to
set for the last few days to the northward of east. The winds had
been light and the sea smooth, indicating no other impulse than the
flow of the Stream. The temperature gradually decreased from 83°
to 75°.

On the night of the 26th we parted company with the Peacock and
Flying-Fish in a squall, and did not again meet them until we reached
Madeira. The 2d September we spoke a brig from Salem on a
whaling voyage. The 5th of September, being near the reported
shoal of St. Anne, I determined to pass over its position.

On the 6th we passed over it, the sea was smooth, the horizon clear,
and the day beautiful. At 8 A. M. the look-out cried out " Rocks, or a
wreck on the starboard bow !" which at once created an excitement
on board. We stood for it. It had at first every appearance of a
rock, then that of a wreck with the masts gone. It proved, however,
to be a large tree of cotton-wood, one hundred and twenty feet in
length, and fourteen feet in circumference at the height of five feet
above the roots. It had been a long time in the water, was full of
barnacles, and much eaten by the teredo navalis. Great quantities of
fish were about it, consisting of dolphins, sharks, &c. We did not,
however, succeed in taking any. In rough weather it might easily
have been mistaken for a rock, particularly if passed in twilight, or at
night. There is little doubt in my mind that many of the numerous
vigias that appear on our charts have as little foundation. No current
was experienced hereabouts, and I am led to the conclusion that a sort
of eddy or still water is here found, wherein most of the wood carried
by the Gulf Stream becomes deposited for a time.

On the 8th, longitude 34° 08' W., latitude 37° 17' N., the current
was found setting to the southward and westward.

In consequence of the wind being from the southward and westward,
I was compelled, after making the Peak of Pico, to go to the northward
of St. Michael's. I am satisfied, however, it is much better to keep to
the southward, as the wind will be found more steady and stronger.
Besides, the current, at that season of the year, sets to the westward
among the islands.

As we passed St. Michael's, we amused ourselves by a view, through
our glasses, of its villas, groves, and cultivated fields.

On the night of the 13th we laid by, just after passing the north end
of St. Michael'?, in order to examine the position of the Tullock Reef
by daylight. We passed within a mile and a half of its reported

6 MADEIRA.

position, but saw nothing of it, although the sea was running suffi-
ciently high to have made a heavy break on it, if it did exist.

On the 15th, as we were making sail, George Porter, one of our
maintop-men, in loosing the top-gallant sail, was caught by the
buntline, and dragged over the yard, where he was seen to hang, as it
were quite lifeless, swinging to and fro by the neck.

On the alarm being given, two men ran aloft to his assistance. It
now became doubtful on deck whether they would not be all dragged
over by the weight of his body, until several others gave assistance
and relieved them. It caused a breathless anxiety to us all to see a
fellow-being in the momentary expectation that he would be dashed to
the deck. He was fortunately rescued and brought below yet living.
Here he speedily came to his senses, and recollecting that the drum
had rolled to grog just before his accident, he, sailor-like, asked for his
portion of it. It was truly a providential escape. This young man
died on our way home, in the China Seas, of an inflammatory fever.

On the 16th we made the island of Madeira, and having a strong
westerly wind, I determined to pass to Funchal, on its southern side.
This may be done at this season, but vessels bound to that port usually
prefer going round the eastern point of the island. When off the
western point of Madeira we experienced a very long heavy swell,
which gave me an opportunity of trying the velocity of the waves,
by noting the time the same wave was passing between the vessels.
The result gave twenty-three miles per hour, but I was not altoge-
ther satisfied with it. It was difficult to measure the correct angle
subtended by the Porpoise's masts for the distance, on account of the
motion of both vessels. The measurement of the height of the waves
I found still more difficult, and the results varied too much to place
confidence in them, principally owing to each succeeding swell or
wave being less than the preceding one. The different observations
gave from twenty-five to fourteen feet ; the width of the wave, from
the same causes, was equally variable, and each successive result
varied from that which preceded it.

Before sunset, we cast anchor in company with the Porpoise and
Sea-Gull, and were the next morning joined by the Peacock and
Flying-Fish.

Shortly after coming to anchor, we were boarded by the health
officer, with the captain of the port, who, on being assured of our good
health, gave us permission to land. The United States' Consul, Henry
John Burden, Esq., also came on board, and kindly offered us all the
attention that lay in his power.

MADEIRA. 7

At night, there was a general illumination of the churches, and the
constant ringing of the bells added much to the excitement of many on
board, and told us we had reached foreign shores.

The first appearance of Madeira did not come up to the idea we
had formed of its beauties from the glowing description of travellers.
It exhibited nothing to the distant view but a bare and broken rock,
of huge dimensions, which, though grand and imposing, is peculiarly
dark and gloomy, and it was not until we had made our way close
under the land, that we could discover the green patches which are
every where scattered over its dark red soil, even to the tops of the
highest peaks.

The mountain verdure was afterwards discovered to be owing to
groves of heath and broom, which grow to an extraordinary height,
aspiring to the stature of forest trees. In addition to these groves, the
terraced acclivities, covered with a luxuriant tropical vegetation,
change on a closer approach its distant barren aspect into one of
extreme beauty and fertility.

The most striking peculiarity in the mountain scenery, is the jagged
outline of the ridge, the rudely shaped towers and sharp pyramids of
rock, which appear elevated on the tops and sides of the highest peaks
as well as on the lower elevations, and the deep precipitous gorges,
which cut through the highest mountains almost to their very base.

The shores of the island are mostly lofty cliffs, occasionally facing
the water with a perpendicular front one or two thousand feet in
height. The cliffs are interrupted by a few small bays, where a richly
cultivated valley approaches the water between abrupt precipices, or
surrounded by an amphitheatre of rugged hills. These narrow bays
are the sites of the villages of Madeira.

As we sailed along from its western end, we occasionally saw, in
these quiet and peaceful situations, small white-walled villages, each
with its little church at the outlet of the gorges. We were particularly
struck with that of the Camera de Lobos, a few miles to the westward
of Santa Cruz hill. This is the largest, and is the most interesting of
any, from its having been the first point settled by Europeans. The
high precipices were new to us Americans : so different from what
we are accustomed to in the United States. The scene was still more
striking, and our attention was more forcibly arrested, when passing
under cliffs of some sixteen hundred feet above us. We were so
near them that the sound of the surf was distinctly heard. The whole
effect of the view was much heightened by a glowing sunset in one of
the finest climates in the world.

Off the eastern cape of the island, many isolated rocks were seen

8 MADEIRA.

separated from the land, with bold, abrupt sides and broken outlines.
The character of these rocks is remarkable : they stand quite detached
from the adjoining cliffs, and some of them rise to a great height in a
slender form, with extremely rugged surfaces, and broken edges.
Through some, the waters have worn arched ways of large dimensions,
which afford a passage for the breaking surf, and would seem to
threaten ere long their destruction.

Similar needle-form rocks are seen off the northern Deserta, an
island lying some miles east of Madeira. One of them is often
mistaken for a ship under sail, to which when first seen it has a
considerable resemblance. It stands like a slender broken column,
several hundred feet in height, on a base scarcely larger than its
summit.

Funchal has a very pleasing appearance from the sea, and its
situation in a kind of amphitheatre formed by the mountains, adds to
its beauty. The contrast of the white buildings and villas with the
green mountains, forms a picture which is much heightened by the
bold quadrangular Loo Rock with its embattled summit commanding
the harbour in the foreground.

The island throughout is rough and mountainous, but the steeps
are clothed with rich and luxuriant verdure. Terraces are visible
on every side, and every spot that the ingenuity of man could make
available has been apparently turned to advantage, and is diligently
cultivated. These spots form an interesting scene, particularly when
contrasted with the broken and wild background, with the white
cottages clustered at the sea-shore, and gradually extending themselves
upwards until the eye rests on the highest and most striking building,
that of the convent of Nostra Senora de Monte.

Through the western half of the island runs a central ridge,
about five thousand feet high, on which is an extensive plain, called
Paul de Serra, which is mostly overgrown, and is used especially
for breeding mules and horses. The eastern portion of the island,
though quite elevated, is less so than the western.

The valleys usually contain a strip of land of extreme fertility,
through which winds the bed of a streamlet, that becomes a mountain
torrent in the rainy seasons, but is nearly or quite dry in summer.

The landing at Funchal is on a stony beach, and is accompanied
with some little difficulty, partly on account of the surf, but more
from the noise, confusion, and uproar made by the native boatmen
in their efforts to drag their boat up on the beach. This operation
they however understand, and are well accustomed to, and those who
desire to land dry, will be wise to employ them.

MADEIRA. 9

On the 17th, we paid our respects, with a large party of officers, to
the civil governor the Baron de Lordello, field-marshal in the army,
and administrator-general of the Province of Madeira and Porto
Santo; and also to the military governor Jose Teixcera Rebello,
colonel in the army, and commandant of the district.

The civil and military governments were formerly united in the
same person, but since the restoration after the reign of Don Miguel,
they have been divided. The military governor is now obliged to
consult, and is under the control of the civil governor. I was
informed that on the appointment of the military governor this was
expressly intimated to him, and that the arrangement was made in
order to avoid placing too much power in the hands of any one
man.

His Excellency Baron Lordello resides in the government house or
palace, which is a large quadrangular building, occupied in part as
barracks. His suite of apartments fronts the bay, and enjoys a
beautiful view of it; they also have the enjoyment of the inbat or
sea-breeze. They are very large, and but meagerly furnished.
Around the large anteroom are hung the portraits of all the civil,
ecclesiastical, and military governors, which form an imposing array
of hard outline, stiff figures and faces, with a variety of amusing
costume. Those of later years which have been hung up, are not
calculated to give very exalted ideas of the standing of the present
Portuguese school of portrait painting.

His Excellency the Baron Lordello received us very courteously.
Our audience, however, was extremely formal : the whole furniture
and appearance of the room served to make it so. We all found
it difficult to school ourselves to ceremonies, having been ushered as
we were through dilapidated and impoverished courts and vestibules.
His Excellency the Baron speaks English remarkably well, which I
understood he had acquired while acting as interpreter to the British
staff in Portugal, during the Peninsular War. He had been no more
than a week in charge of the government, having just arrived from
Portugal. After a few monosyllabic questions and answers we took
our leave, and he did us the honour to see us through the anteroom to
the hall of entrance, where we parted with many bows.

Our next visit was to the military governor, Senor Rebello, who
occupied a small apartment at the opposite end of the building.
This was not large enough to accommodate us all, and chairs were
wanting for many. The manner and ease of the occupant made
full amends. Ceremony and form were laid aside; he seemed to

VOL. i. 2

10 MADEIRA.

enter warmly into our plans and pleasures, and evinced a great desire
to do us service.

Colonel Rebello was one of the proscribed during the reign of
terror of Don Miguel, and was concealed for four years, all of which
time our consular flag afforded him protection. During this whole
period he did not leave the apartment he occupied, or even approach
the window.

The streets of the town are very narrow, without sidewalks, and
to our view like alleys, but their narrowness produces no inconve-
nience. They are \vell paved, and wheel-carriages are unknown.
The only vehicle, if so it may be called, is a sledge, of some six
feet in length, about twenty inches wide, and only six or eight inches
high, on which are transported the pipes of wine. Two strips of hard
wood are fastened together for runners.

This sledge is dragged by two very small oxen, and slips easily
on the pavement, which is occasionally wet with a cloth. It is no
doubt the best mode of transportation in Funchal, for their wine, on
account of the great steepness of their streets. Smaller burthens are
transported on men's shoulders, or in hampers and baskets on the
backs of donkeys.

The middle gutters are now for the most part closed, and made
subterranean, no longer the stranger's nuisance. Funchal may
compare with most places for the cleanliness of its streets. Little
improvement has as yet taken place in the cleanliness and discipline
of its prisons.

I was surprised to learn that all misdemeanours are referred for
trial to Portugal, and that persons having committed small crimes are
kept for years without any disposition being made of them by those
in authority. They are maintained at the expense of the complainant,
consequently crime is scarcely noticed or complained of. On the
one hand it makes the punishment very severe, and on the other,
persons are inclined to take the law into their own hands against
petty thefts. It is impossible to avoid many painful sights in passing
the prisons. Caps on sticks are thrust through the iron gratings, and
requests are made for alms, first in beseeching tones, and afterwards,

MADEIRA.

11

if nothing is given, one is pained with hearing cries of execration.
The occupants are in keeping with the premises, and did not fail to
excite both our commiseration and disgust.

Among the lions of Madeira is a villa once belonging to Senor
Jose de Carvalhal, a wealthy nobleman who died about a year before
our visit. The gardens are well taken care of, and contain many
trees and plants from various quarters of the globe. The grounds
embrace extensive deer parks, but I was not much struck with the
manner in which they were laid out. The present proprietor is the
nephew of the late Count.

The convent is also a place to which strangers resort, and the
fair nuns of twenty years' standing, I will not dwell on, lest truth
might compel me to destroy some of the reputation of those charms
which former visitors have done honour to. Feather-flowers continue
to be sold here, and the nuns to jest with, and receive the homage of
their guests. Since the overthrow of Don Miguel in 1 824, monasteries
have been abolished and liberty given to the nuns to return to the
world, of which privilege some of them availed themselves. They
do not now exceed eighty in number, and as none have since been
allowed to take the veil, they will soon decrease.

The rides in Madeira are beautiful. The roads are well made,
easily and safely travelled on a Madeira pony, with a pony-boy or
burroquerro. One is at a loss to which to impute the most strength
of mind and endurance, the pony or the boy. These boys keep
constantly near the rider, at times holding on to the tail of the pony,
then bestowing repeated blows with their long sticks, and ever and
anon urging him on with their singular tones of voice, so that the rider
is compelled to allow himself to be carried along, contented with
passing safely over so novel and (to him) apparently so impassable a
roadway.

On proceeding out of Funchal, fruits, flowers, and vegetables
seem crowding upon the sight; in the lower portions, groves of orange
and lemon trees are mingled with the vineyards, the trees are loaded
with fruit ; then, as one mounts higher, bananas, figs, pomegranates,
&c., are seen, and again, still higher, the fruits of the tropics are
interspersed with those of the temperate zone, viz., apples, currants,
pears, and peaches, while the ground is covered with melons,
tomatoes, egg-plant, &c. Farther beyond, the highest point of culti-
vation is reached, where the potato alone flourishes. Then the
whole lower portion is spread before the eye. Vineyards, occupying
every spot that is susceptible of improvement, and one rides through
paths hedged in with geraniums, roses, myrtles, and hydrangeas.

12

MADEIRA.

These plants, which we had been accustomed to consider as the
inhabitants of our parlours and green-houses, are here met with in
gigantic forms, and as different from our small, sickly specimens as
can well be imagined. For those unacquainted with the luxuriance
of the tropical vegetation, it would be difficult to conceive an idea
of this favoured spot. Many of the terraces on which the vines
are grown are cut on the sides of the hills, and the visiter cannot
but admire the labour expended on the stone walls that support them.
The road at times leads through small villages, the houses of which
are built of blocks of lava, without plaster, about six feet high,
with a thatched roof of broom brought up to a pole in the centre for
its support, and of a moderate pitch.

Every one who visits Madeira should see the Curral. It is a
very remarkable spot, and it is difficult, if not impossible, to give
an idea of its beauty and grandeur. This place is approached by
the usual ascent from Funchal, through the narrow roads, or paths

MADEIRA. 13

hedged with roses, &c., the view gradually extending beneath,
over the terraced vineyards. Just before reaching it you mount a
small ascent; you are then on the summit or edge of the Curral,
and the whole scene suddenly bursts upon you. The eye descends
to the depth of two thousand feet, into the immense chasm below,
and wanders over the ragged and broken outline of the many peaks
that rise from its very bottom ; then upwards, following the gray
precipitous rocks, till their summits are lost in the clouds, which
are passing fitfully across it, occasionally permitting the sunbeams to
glance to its very bottom. One feels surprised, in gazing on this
scene, that its character of wildness should become softened, and its
beauty increased, which is effected in part by the plants and shrubs
which cling or have fastened themselves into the fissures of the rocks.
These the eye gradually makes out, and is led by the small and
narrow strips of green on the ledges downwards, until it finally rests
on the secluded church of Nostra Senora de Livre Monte, and the
peasants' cabins embedded in the dark and luxuriant foliage beneath,
whose peace and quietness are in such strong contrast with the
wildness of nature above. The whole looks more like enchantment
than reality. The shape of the Curral and its perpendicular sides
give the idea rather of a gorge than of a crater.

In the descent the road winds along the sides of the precipice,
turning around sharp and jutting projections, with a frightful gulf
yawning below. A misstep of the horse would plunge the rider to
destruction. At every turn new and striking views are brought out,
almost surpassing in grandeur the first. The descent is so gradual,
that one scarcely seems to advance downwards, and the length of
time necessary to accomplish it (upwards of an hour) will give some
idea of the vastness and grandeur of the scene. Continuing on, the
gorge opens to the south, where the streamlet of the Curral, joined
by several lateral branches, forms the river Socorridos, which empties
itself into the sea at the ancient town of Camera de Lobos.

A party, consisting of Messrs. Drayton, Pickering, Couthouy, and
Brackenridge, visited San Vincente, on the north side of the island.
They describe the road to it as passing over projecting ledges, of
which those unacquainted with a volcanic country can form but little
idea. The first night the party stopped at Santa Anna, where they
were hospitably entertained by Senor A. Accraiolis, who afforded
them every comfort in his power. They were exceedingly well
accommodated. The next morning they set out on their way to Pico
Ruivo. On their road they encountered the forest of arborescent
Heaths, some of which were found thirty feet in height and four feet

14 MADEIRA.

in girth at a height of two feet from the ground. These have by
former travellers been reported as pines. Mr. Drayton's illustrative
drawing of these remarkable trees is very characteristic.

After a fatiguing day's ramble, in which they collected many
specimens, they returned to Santa Anna, quite wet, it having rained
most of the day on the mountain. The next day they set out for San
Vincente, their kind host furnishing them with a letter to Padre
Jacinto Neri. Passing along the north side, over some of the most
mountainous and broken parts of the island, though at the same time
extremely beautiful, and in places well cultivated, they reached the
pass at Estroza. This is particularly striking, winding around the
precipitous cliff, almost overhanging the sea, several hundred feet
below, and with its pinnacles reaching the clouds. The path around
this bluff, which is only wide enough for one at a time, is a good
specimen of the roads around the island. It has been worked with
great labour, and made quite easy to travel by its zigzag direction.
The feeling of insecurity to those who are unaccustomed to these
mural precipices, with the extended ocean lying far beneath, serves
to give additional interest to the scene.

To the plate of this pass, facing page 1, the reader is referred for a
correct representation of the same.

They passed through several villages, all prettily situated, among
which was Porto Delgada, and about sunset arrived at San Vincente.
At Porto Delgada, their guides would not allow them to stop, as it
was necessary to descend and pass along the rocky shore before the
tide came in. They succeeded in passing safely, but were kept on
the qni vive by the numerous stories detailed by their guides of the
accidents that had occurred there. The road to this part of the
island is little frequented by strangers, of whom only three are said
to have visited San Vincente during four months.

On their arrival they found Padre Jacinto engaged at prayers.
After his duties \vere finished he received them kindly, and accommo-
dated them for the night. San Vincente is but a small village of
fifteen houses, a chapel, and a distillery, in which, during the season,
they make between four and five hundred gallons of brandy a day.
As Padre Jacinto could not speak a word of English, they had but
little conversation with him. However, a little Spanish on both sides,
with gesticulations, enabled them to pass the usual compliments, and
to obtain the requisite directions for proceeding back to Funchal
on the next day. They were kindly and hospitably entertained by
the Padre, and left him with many thanks for his kindness. Taking
the road or rather path across to the Cnrral, they passed over a most

16

MADEIRA.

the island. This was too great a shock for poor Anna, and she died
soon after of a broken heart. Robert did not long survive her, and
died, uttering as a last request that he might be laid in the same grave
with his mistress, in a chapel which they had erected in commemoration
of their deliverance from shipwreck. From the survivors, Alcoforado
is said to have derived the story, they having left the island, (after
many adventures,) returned to their native country, and gave accounts
of the discovery of Madeira."

The country along this route is much diversified in surface, and
extremely beautiful. The road is quite good and much wider, enabling
two to ride abreast.

This party complained much of the inhospitality of the inhabitants.
They could not get any accommodation whatever at Santa Cruz,
although it contains three thousand inhabitants. They were told "that
Santa Cruz was a very poor place," and that it would be better to ride
on to Funchal. One of the inhabitants, of respectable appearance,
told them there was an empty house which they could occupy, with
permission of the owner. His offer was courteously declined, and the
party rode back through a dark night to Funchal.

The islands of Madeira and Porto Santo, under the new constitution,
promulgated in 1836, were included in one district, called " Districto-
administrativo do Funchal." It contains ten councils, in which are
forty-five parishes. The population, according to the census taken in
1836, is taken from the Cronica.

PARISHES.

FAMILIES.

SOULS.

MALES.

FEMALES.

Funchal ....

(J

5,975

28,653

13,444

15,204

Santa Cruz . . .

4

1,450

7,287

3,611

3,676

Macliico ....

4

1,030

5,207

2,655

2,552

Santa Anna . . .

5

3,972

14,799

7,572

7,227

San Vincente . .

2

1,972

8,848

4,425

4,423

Porto Moniz . .

4

1,559

7,333

3,606

3,727

G

2,731

13,133

6,341

6,792

Porto do Sol . . .

6

3,288

16,111

7,852

8,259

Camara do Lobos .

4

2,323

12,458

6,119

6,339

Porto Santo . . .

374

1,618

883

758

45

24,674

1 15,447

56,508

58,957

The English population amounted in 1836 to 108 families, numbering

souls.

MADEIRA.

PROGRESS OF POPULATION IN 1835.

Legitimate births, male 1807

Illegitimate " " 222

2029

Legitimate births, female 1868

Illegitimate " " 205

2073

4102

Deaths, male 1383

" female 1368

2751

17

Excess of births ... 1351

Marriages .... 1065

The revenue of the island is stated to be about $210,000 per annum.
That portion which is derived from the customs, is about one half, or
$110,000. The remainder is from taxes and tithes. The latter are now
collected by the government, and from it the priesthood receive salaries.
The inhabitants are liable to pay tax for the maintenance of the small
naval force kept on the station. The expenses of the government of Ma-
deira, including the support of the military garrison, is about $150,000,
leaving a surplus to the government of about $50,000 or $60,000.

There are about five thousand proprietors of the soil, of whom no
more than six hundred and fifty live on their rents ; and there are
about four hundred who receive government salaries.

Mendicants are numerous, and one is much tormented with them
from the very moment of landing. It is surprising to find them so
importunate in so fine an island, and where the necessaries of life
ought to abound.

Wine is the staple commodity: the produce during the year 1837
was 14,150 pipes. The export the year previous to our visit amounted
to 8,435 pipes, of which about 3,800 pipes, valued at $793,000, went to
the United States. The imports only amounted to $105,000, in staves,
rice, and oil. The 5,700 pipes that remain, includes that shipped
to Europe, the home consumption, and what is stored for refining.
The inhabitants of Madeira are much alive and justly jealous of the
reputation of their Wines, which are generally the engrossing topic of
conversation. An amusing excitement existed during our visit. A
London paper (the Times) had asserted that foreign wine had frequently
been introduced into Madeira, and afterwards exported as the genuine
article, to the United States in particular ; and what gave more force
to the story, it was stated as a fact, that seventy pipes had lately been

VOL. r. 3

18 MADEIRA.

entered, at the expense of 81000, and remanufactured. Every body
was up in arms. The commercial association of Funchal passed
resolutions denouncing the publication in strong terms, as designed by
certain interested persons to injure the reputation of the wine of
Madeira. So strict are the laws to prevent frauds, that even genuine
Madeira, after being once shipped, cannot be returned to the island.
I heard, however, of an attempt, and but one, to smuggle in Teneriffe
and Fayal wines, which was discovered. The casks were broken, the
wine destroyed, the boats confiscated, and the smuggler condemned to
be transported to the coast of Africa.

We were informed that the industry of the inhabitants had much
increased within a few years, and since the new order of things : this
is shown in the increased quantity of grain which is raised, viz., wheat,
barley, rye, and Indian corn. Sugar and coffee are also raised, and of
superior quality. All kinds of vegetables and fruits are in abundance,
all of very fine kinds, and not only sufficient for their own wants, bu<
to supply the shipping that touch there.

There are some things relative to the organization of the present
government, that seem to forebode any thing but harmony in its
operations. It is too complicated for an ignorant community, that
cannot value the elective franchise. The system is somewhat a
caricature of our own, in the frequency of elections, and the numerous
small magistrates who have for the most part little or no emolument.
I was told that instances had occurred of their refusing to educate
their children, in order that they might escape being elected to an
office, which would bring them nothing but toil and vexation. As they
become more enlightened this prejudice will pass away.

The people are industrious, sober, and civil, and although ignorant,
I should think happy. There is little, if any, mixed blood among
them. They are of the old Arabian stock. Free negroes are seen.
Dark hair, eyes, and complexion, are most common; but much
diversity in form and feature, and in the colour of the hair exists.
The character of the features of the inhabitants is usually rather a
broad face, high cheek bones, and pointed nose, full lips, good teeth,
and retreating chin. The men are very muscular, rather above the
middle height, strongly built, and capable of enduring great fatigue.
We all agreed that the women were particularly ugly, which is to be
imputed in part to the hard labour required of them. The two sexes
do not appear to belong to the same race.

The men of the lower order are dressed in a kind of loose trousers
(cuecas), descending as far as the knee, with a shirt or jacket of a
gaudy colour. Both sexes wear a kind of cap (carapuca), of very

MADEIRA.

19

small dimensions, tied under the chin. Its use is not readily conceived,
as it is only a few inches in diameter at its base, and terminates in a
conical top, like an inverted funnel.

The women wear bodices, with short petticoats of a variety of
colours, in stripes. They have usually shoes and stockings, but they
generally go barefooted, with these articles tied in a small bundle, to
be put on when they wish to appear fine. The children are poorly
clad, have but one garment, and that dirty.

The habitations of the lower order would be called huts in our
country. They are composed of walls of stone, about five or six feet
high, with a roof rising on all sides to a central pole, are thatched with
straw or broom, and contain only one room. The only aperture for
light and smoke is the door. There is but little necessity for chimneys,
as fire is seldom required. It is said that in the northern part of the
island, some of the peasants make their habitation in caves or
excavations on the hill-side.

PEASANT'S COTTAGE.

In the town of Funchal, there are many elegant establishments, and
much luxury among the higher classes, but the poorer classes are
lodged miserably. The houses are generally of one story, of which
the exterior is well kept, being neatly whitewashed ; but the interior
is any thing but comfortable. They have but one entrance. The
floors are paved with round stones, and the walls are of rough stone,
presenting no better an appearance than our wood-cellars. The
furniture is scanty, and of the coarsest kind. Those of the peasants
are more characteristic to the island. The wood-cut above is a good
representation of their habitations.

Travelling is performed in sedan-chairs. This mode is always
considered the safest for ladies, particularly in crossing the mountains.
Horses and mules are seldom used. On leaving Funchal for the

20

MADEIRA.

country, it is one continued ascent between high stone walls, these
forming abutments to the terraces, which are covered with vines,
and afford protection from the sun. After reaching the hills, one
enjoys a delightful view of the beautiful gardens. The roadsides
are lined throughout with flowers, (to us, those of the green-house,)
among them Fuchsias, Digitalis, Rose geraniums, Punica granata,
Rosa indica coccinea, Hydrangea hortensis, mixed with box-trees,
myrtles, &c.

The valleys are covered with the Belladonna lily, and the mountain-
passes cannot be compared to any thing more appropriate than to a
rich flower-garden left to grow wild. Added to all this, a climate
which resembles our finest spring weather.

Such of the peasantry as do not gain a subsistence in the vineyards,
have usually a small patch of ground which they cultivate, raising
grain, corn, potatoes, and the taro (Arum esculentum), in quantities
barely sufficient to eke out a scanty living. The cultivation is
commonly performed by hand, although a plough of very simple
construction is someti nes used. Many of the peasantry are em-
ployed as carriers, and one is much struck by their numbers when
entering Funchal, early in the morning, with sheepskins filled with
wine on their shoulders, that look at a distance more like the live

WINE-CARRIERS.

animal than a filled skin. These skins are preserved as entire as
possible, even the legs of the animal being retained. They are
generally kept steady by a band that passes over the forehead, which
supports a great part of the weight. About twenty-five gallons,
weighing more than two hundred pounds, is a load. They move

MADEIRA.

21

rapidly, and carry this load five miles for a mere trifle. To us, one
of the most remarkable features in the population, was to see a
female not only thus employed, but a stout mountain lass trudging
up a steep path with ease, under a load that would have staggered
one of our labourers, even for a short distance.

The manner of expressing the juice I have no where seen particu-
larly described, and although a description of it may not add a relish
to the cup, yet it will show the manufacture as conducted according
to the old custom, at the present day. A friend of our consul was
obliging enough to show us his works, and the machinery for
expressing the juice from the grape. It was in a rude sort of shed.
On our approach we heard a sort of song, with a continued thumping,
and on entering, saw six men stamping violently in a vat of six
feet square by two feet deep, three on each side of a huge lever beam,
their legs bare up to the thighs. On our entrance they redoubled
their exertions till the perspiration fairly poured from them ; the
vat had been filled with grapes, and by their exertions we were
enabled to see the whole process. After the grapes had been suffi-

WINE-PRESS.

ciently stamped, and the men's legs well scraped, the pulp was made
into the shape of a large bee-hive, a rope made of the young twigs of
the vine being wound around it. The lever was then used, which
has a large stone or rock attached to it by a screw. Much time is
lost in adjusting this, and much consultation and dispute had. The
juice flows off, and is received in tubs. The produce of the press is
on an average about fifty gallons daily. Each gallon requires about
ten bushels of grapes. The taste is very much like sweet cider.
The process is any thing but pleasing, and endeavours have been

22 MADEIRA.

made by English residents to substitute machinery, but the prejudices,
vexations, and difficulties experienced, have caused them to give up
the attempt. The general average is from one to three pipes of wine
per acre annually.

The south side of Madeira, as is well known, although not the
most fertile, produces the finest wines. Every point which can
be cultivated successfully is attended to, and earth is brought to
increase the soil from other parts. The kinds of grapes are various,
and the wines manufactured as numerous. The common Madeira
is obtained from a mixture of Bual, Verdelho, and Negro Molle
grapes ; the Malmsey and Sercial from grapes of the same name.
There is a great difference in the spots and peculiar exposure where
the vine grows, and different kinds of wine are produced, according
to the state of maturity to which the grape is allowed to arrive at
before being gathered. After being expressed, it is put into casks,
undergoes the process of fermentation, is clarified with gypsum or
isinglass, and a small portion of brandy is added, two or three gallons
to the pipe.

The deportment of the lower classes is a mixture of politeness and
servility. They invariably noticed us in passing by taking off the
cap ; and on receiving any thing, kissed their hands, or made some
other respectful salutation.

The language spoken in Madeira is Portuguese, but with a rapid
utterance, or rather, clipping or abbreviating of their words and
expressions.

The ignorance of the common people seems great. Few can read,
and still fewer write. It is said they are acquainted with no more
than three coins, all of which are Spanish, namely, dollars, pistareens,
and bits, and that many kinds of Portuguese coins current at Lisbon
will not pass in Madeira. The want of a small description of money
is much felt.

I directed a party of officers to make an excursion to the top of
Pico Ruivo, in order to ascertain its height, and that of the several
points on their way up. They remained four hours on the summit,
during which time simultaneous observations were made at the con-
sul's house by Lieutenant Carr and myself. They ascended by the
Santa Anna road, which is the only one now said to be practicable.
Punta d'Empeno, the highest point of cultivation, was found to be
four thousand one hundred feet above the sea. The heights of other
points measured will be found in the tables. The results of the
observations give for the height of the peak above the American
Consulate, six thousand one hundred and eighty-one feet. The

MADEIRA.

23

cistern of the barometer at the latter place, above half tide, was found
to be by levelling fifty-six feet. Total, six thousand two hundred and
thirty-seven feet above half tide.

The magnetical observations for dip and intensity were also mad%
and the longitude by chronometer was found to be, 16° 54' 11" W.
Latitude by observation, 32° 38' 11" N.

The markets are well supplied with meat, poultry, fish, and all
kinds of vegetables.

The bat noticed by Bowdich was the only one of the mammalia
seen in a wild state. Of birds, two species of hawks, the linnet, the
canary, the goldfinch, the yellow wagtail, and the swift, were all that
were seen. Sea fish are abundant ; but not a single trace of a fresh
water fish was seen or found in the streams. Many specimens of
Crustacea, insects, and mollusca were added to our collections.

The ride to the Quinta of Mr. Bean at Comancha is one of the
prettiest the island affords. It is towards the east end, and some
eight or ten miles from the town of Funchal. For variety of scenery
and the beauty of its grounds it is not exceeded by any on the island,
and it gives a good idea of the effect of English taste when applied
to the scenery and fine climate of Madeira. The road to it is the
same that has been before described, passing through the gorges and
around the different spurs, which gives great variety to it, and presents
many fine views. Having a note of introduction from our consul, we
stopped at Mr. Bean's gate and sent the servant in, who returned,
informing us that Mr. Bean was not at home, but a kind invitation
to enter was sent to us from his lady. We did so, riding through
hedges of Fuchsias and Myrtles twelve feet high, when a beautiful
little cottage on a small level spot burst suddenly upon our view, with
its verandahs embosomed in creeping vines, and from the notes
of various kinds of birds, one could almost have fancied oneself in an
aviary. All united to give the impression that it was the abode
of contentment. Several small lakes were partially seen, their
dimensions being ingeniously hid from view. On one of them was
seen a tiny fleet safely moored, on another, waterfalls, &c., &c. ; the
banks of others were surrounded with aquatic plants, among which
was the Calla Ethiopica in full bloom. Then again we were struck
with the dahlias, geraniums, roses, and jasmines, and the varieties of
trees and shrubs from the tropics, besides willows, oaks, elms, &c.,
that were familiar to us. A view through the trees down the gorge
to the distant ocean was beautiful, bringing before us all the bold
scenery of Madeira : truly it was an enchanting spot. The grounds
are extensive, and laid out with great taste, and each spot appeared

24 MADEIRA.

in keeping with the whole. The hill behind the house was found by
the sympiesometer to be two thousand and ninety-eight feet above the
level of the sea. The cottage had every thing to recommend it, in its
library, &c., &c. All is enjoyed here that such a climate as that of
Madeira, combined with taste and refinement, can give.

After a stay of a week, we had made all our repairs and arrange-
ments which were necessary in consequence of our defective outfits,
recruited the officers and men, and prepared for our departure.

Lest it should be supposed at home that I had exaggerated the state
of the ships, I forwarded from Madeira to the Honourable Secretary
of the Navy, as an ocular proof how defective our outfit had been,
the iron hoops that had rusted off the pumps, and were found in the
well-room of the Peacock. Captain Hudson's report relative thereto
will be found in Appendix XV.

The diarrhoea made its appearance among the crews, but in dis-
pensing with fruit it was soon stopped.

During our stay, the English schooner Star was seen drifting rapidly
upon the Brazen-head, and was only saved by the timely aid of our
boats. She was found to be without an anchor, and had been
upwards of eighty days at sea from the coast of Africa. The garrison
of Loo Rock, on seeing the boats proceeding to render assistance, fired
several guns to prevent her being boarded. This would have effectually
prevented her receiving any aid from the shore, but as our boats did
not understand the signal, they went on, and succeeded in saving her
from wreck, and supplying her necessary wants.

With a favourable wind we took our departure, after experiencing
many kindnesses and attentions from our worthy Vice-Consul, Henry
John Burden, Esq., whose house and time were entirely given up to
us during our stay, and to whom I would beg to tender our warmest
thanks.

MADEIllA BOAT.

CHAPTER II.

CONTENTS.

SQUADRON SAILS FROM MADEIRA— CURRENTS— SEARCH FOR SHOALS AND VIGIAS—
ARRIVAL AT ST. J AGO— APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND— TOWN OF PORTO PRAY A— ITS
POPULATION— LANGUAGE— VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR— PUBLIC FOUNTAIN— MARKET-
DRILL OF RECRUITS — DROUGHTS — CLIMATE— SLAVES — DRESS — DEPARTURE FROM
PORTO PRAYA— FURTHER SEARCH FOR SHOALS, ETC.— ARRIVAL AT RIO JANEIRO.

(25)

CHAPTER II.

PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA TO RIO JANEIRO.

1838.

O\ the 25th of September, having completed all that was deemed
necessary, we sailed from Madeira, and stood to the southward,
intending to pass over the localities where shoals were supposed to
exist.

The morning after our departure from Madeira it was reported to
me at daylight that the squadron were not in sight; as we had been
making rapid progress throughout the night, I concluded that we had
outrun the squadron, and hove to for them to come up. About eight
o'clock they were discovered. On joining, I was informed by Captain
Hudson that they had been becalmed for several hours, although we
were near each other when the breeze sprang up. These veins of
wind are frequent in this part of the ocean.

After passing the Canary Islands we experienced a current setting
northeast by east, of about one fourth of a mile an hour, until we
reached the latitude of Bonavista, one of the Cape de Verde Islands.
This somewhat surprised me, for I had formed the idea that the set of
the current should have been in the direction of our course ; but many
careful observations with the current-log, and the difference between
our astronomical observations and dead reckoning, gave the same
results.

It was my intention on leaving the United States to pass from
Madeira through the Sargasso Sea, in order to ascertain something
definite in relation to this unexplored and interesting locality, and to
gain some information relative to the Fucus natans, or Gulf-weed, the
origin of which has remained so long in doubt. Deep soundings in this
part of the ocean I deemed would be very interesting, and afford an

(27)

28 PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA

opportunity of settling the origin of this plant, which is spread over the
whole ocean ; but my time did not permit me to make this deviation
from our direct course, and I hoped on my return to have ample
leisure for its exploration.

On the 29th of September, we passed into discoloured water, as
green in appearance as that of fifty fathoms depth. On entering it the
thermometer fell one and a half to two degrees. The distance run in
it was about four hundred and fifty miles. Repeated casts of the deep
sea lead were had in from two to three hundred fathoms, but no bottom
found. The water was particularly examined for animalcules, but
none were detected. On leaving it a rise of temperature took place of
two degrees ; and much phosphorescence was seen when we had
passed out of it.

The first shoal searched for was the Maria Rock, said to be in
latitude 19° 45' N., and longitude 20° 50' W. In its neighbourhood
our position was carefully ascertained. The vessels were then spread
in open order, and a course sailed to pass directly over the spot. The
surface of the ocean visible was not less than twenty miles in latitude
with every opportunity which clear weather could afford. Good look-
outs w^ere kept at the masthead, and there was a sufficient swell to
cause breakers on any shoal within fifteen feet of the surface. We
ran over the locality without perceiving any thing that indicated a
shoal.

The situation of the Bom Felix Shoal, laid down about ten leagues
to the south of the above, was passed over in the same manner,
sounding repeatedly for bottom with three hundred fathoms of line,
but no appearance of a shoal was observed.

The reported position of the Bonetta Rocks next claimed our
attention, in latitude 16° 32' N., and longitude 20° 57' W. After this
locality had been well examined, a course was steered over its sup-
posed bearing from Bonavista, one of the Cape de Verde Islands.
The vessels of the squadron sounding every half hour during the night,
which was clear and bright moonlight.*

On the night of the 6th of October, we hove to off the island of
St. Jago. Seldom have we seen the sea exhibit so much phospho-

* Since our examination, I have seen a letter from the American consul at Porto Praya,
F. Gardiner, Esq., detailing the wreck of the British ship Charlotte in 1841, and placing
this shoal in latitude 16° 17' N., longitude 22° 21' W., 84' in longitude and 15' in latitude
from the position I searched for it in ; whence it appears that it is the same reef on which
the Magdelaine was lost. I have no kind of doubt but that they ought all to be referred to
the Hartwell Reef. The same gentleman was confident at the time I saw him that the
Magdelaine had been lost on the reef of that name.

TO RIO J A N E I R ().

29

rescence. Its brilliancy was so great, that it might truly be said to
have the appearance of being on fire. We made some experiments
to ascertain the depth to which these phosphorescent animalcules
extended. After many trials they were not found below eighteen
fathoms. The temperature of the water at that depth was 79°, at
the surface 80°, and at one hundred fathoms depth 58°. The mean
temperature of the air from Madeira until our arrival off this port,
was found to have increased from 69° to 78°, while the difference in
the water was from 71° to 81°.

On the morning of the 7th, we anchored in Porto Praya bay. The
island of St. Jago presents a very different appearance from Madeira,
particularly the southeastern portion of it, though its formation is
known to be similar. There are many high peaks and mountains
in its centre, which afford a fine background for the barren and
uninteresting coast scenery.

kThe time of our arrival was just, after the rainy season, the island
nsequently presented a more verdant appearance than it does at
other seasons of the year.

Our Consul, F. Gardiner, Esq., came on board and made us wel-
come to all the island afforded. An officer was despatched to call
upon his excellency the governor, to report our arrival, who proved
to be a black man. Knowing that the regulations required permission

30 PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA

for vessels to depart, the request was made during the interview, which
he readily granted at any hour we chose.

The town of Porto Praya is prettily situated on an elevated piece
of table land, and looked well from the anchorage.

The bay is an open one, but is not exposed to the prevailing winds.
There is generally a swell setting in, which makes the landing un-
pleasant and difficult. The only landing-place is a small rock, some
distance from the town, and under a high bank, on which there is,
or rather was, a fortification, for it is now entirely gone to decay. It
commands the bay, and is situated about two hundred feet above
the sea. The horizontal stratification of the red and yellow-coloured
sandstone shows most conspicuously in this clift', and forms one of the
most remarkable objects on this part of the island. It is of tertiary
formation, and contains many fossils. I regretted extremely that my
time did not permit me to make a longer stay, as we left the island
under the impression that there is much here to be found that is new
in the various departments of natural history. Between this bluff and
the town is an extensive valley, in which are many date-palms, cocoa-
nuts, and a species of aloe.

On landing, a stranger is immediately surrounded by numbers of the
inhabitants, with fruit, vegetables, chickens, turkeys, and monkeys, all
pressing him with bargains, and willing to take any thing for the
purpose of obliging their customers. Many of them continue to follow
until they meet with some new customer.

The soil, rocks, and every thing around on the surface, show
unequivocal marks of volcanic origin. The rock above the tertiary
formation is a thick bed of cellular lava, with fragments of the same
strewn in every direction over it. A thin and poor soil gives but
little sustenance to a light herbage. Goats and asses are found in
great numbers grazing upon it.

The length of our visit did not permit us to make much examina-
tion, yet the character of the vegetation was unequivocally African.

The walk from the landing to the town is exceedingly fatiguing,
and the road deep with sand. The first view of the town on entering
it is any thing but striking, and all the ideas formed in its favour are
soon dispelled. The houses are whitewashed, and in general appear-
ance resemble those inhabited by the lower orders in Madeira, but
they are much inferior even to them. The northeast part of the town
is composed of rough stone houses, covered with palm leaves. The
streets are wide, and in the centre is a large public square, the middle
of which is occupied by a small wooden monument said to be emble-

TO RIO JANEIRO.

31

matical of royalty! A chapel, jail, and barracks constitute the
principal public buildings. The fort, which flanks the town, is almost
entirely in decay. This is the case with almost every thing we saw
here : the place is, indeed, little better than an African town. The
houses are of stone, one story high, partly thatched, and others tiled.
Their interior presents only a few articles of absolute necessity. Of
comfort and cleanliness, in our sense of the words, they have no idea.
The houses and streets are filthy in the extreme, and in both of them,
pigs, fowls, and monkeys appear to claim, and really possess, equal
rights with the occupants and owner.

The population is made up of an intermixture of descendants from
the Portuguese, natives, and negroes from the adjacent coast. The
Negro race seems to predominate, woolly hair, flat noses, and thick
lips being most frequently met with. The number of inhabitants in St.
Jago is about thirty thousand. Porto Praya contains two thousand
three hundred, of which number one hundred are native Portuguese.

The language spoken, is a jargon formed by a mixture of the
Portuguese and Negro dialects. Most of the blacks speak their native
tongue. Mr. Hale, our philologist, obtained here a vocabulary of the
Mandingo language, and found it to agree with that given by Mungo
Park.

The officers of this garrison were, like the governor, all black.
The latter made a brilliant appearance, dressed in a military frock
coat, red sash, two large silver epaulettes, and a military cross on
his breast. He was quite good-looking, although extremely corpulent,
and speaks both French and Spanish well. He was very civil and
attentive. Fruit, bread, cheese, and wines were handed about. Some
of the wine was made on the island of Fogo, and resembled the light
Italian wines. The cheese also was made here from goats' milk, and
resembled the Spanish cheese. After doing ample justice to his excel-
lency's good fare, we proceeded to view the lions of the place.

The first and greatest of these is the fountain, or common watering
place of the town, above half a mile distant by the path, in a valley to
the west of the town, and almost immediately under it. The fountain
is surrounded by a variety of tropical trees, consisting of dates, cocoa-
nuts, bananas, papayas, sugar-cane, and tamarinds, with grapes,
oranges, limes, &c. &c., and when brought into comparison with the
surrounding lands, may be termed an enchanting spot ; but what adds
peculiarly to its effect on a stranger, is the novelty of the objects that
are brought together. Over the spring is a thatched roof, and round
about it a group of the most remarkable objects in human shape that
can well be conceived. On one side blind beggars, dirty soldiers, and

32 PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA

naked children ; on another, lepers, boys with monkeys, others with
fowls, half-dressed women, asses not bigger than sheep, and hogs of
a mammoth breed ; to say nothing of those with cutaneous disorders,
&c. &c., that were undergoing ablution. All conspired to form a
scene peculiar, I should think, to this semi-African population. Here
sailors watering and washing, chatting, talking, and laughing ; there
a group of "far niente" natives of all sizes, shapes, and colours, half
clothed, with turbaned heads and handkerchiefs of many and gay
colours, tied on after a different fashion from what we had been ac-
customed to, the shawls being reversed, their ends hanging down
behind instead of before, completely covering the breast, and one
fourth of the face. What portion of this group had honoured the
place in consequence of our visit, it would be difficult to conjecture,
all were eager, however, to derive some benefit from the meeting,
particularly the beggars, who are equally pertinacious with those
found elsewhere, and are certainly great objects of commiseration.
This well barely supplies the wants of the inhabitants and shipping,
and they are now about building a reservoir. The whole of the stone
for it was prepared in Portugal, and made ready for putting up. It is
to be of marble. The water for its supply is brought two miles in
iron pipes. It is said that it will cost $130,000, and is the only im-
provement that has been undertaken by government for many a year.

A market is held daily in the morning when any vessels are in
port. The square in which it is held is quite a large one, with a cross
in its centre. The market is not of much extent, but a great variety
of tropical fruits, of the kinds before enumerated, are exposed for sale
in small quantities, as well as vegetables. These consist of cabbage-
leaves, beans, pumpkins, squashes, corn, potatoes, yams, mandioca,
&c. All these were spread out on the large leaves of the cocoa-nut
tree. No kind of meat was for sale. The only articles of this
description were chickens four or five days old, tied up in bunches,
and some eggs. In order to obtain beef, it is necessary to buy the
cattle at the cattle-yard, where, on previous notice being given, you
may choose those that suit for slaughter. They are in general of
small size, and dark-coloured. Those we saw were from the interior
of the island, where they are said to thrive well.

The morning drill of the recruits which was witnessed, was
amusing. They were cleanly dressed, but the rattan was freely used
by the sergeant, and what seemed characteristic or in keeping with
appearances around, the sergeant during the drill ordered one of his
men from the ranks, to bring him some fire to light his cigar !

No trades were observed, and but one small carpenter's shop. A

TO RIO JANEIRO.

33

few shops were supplied with cotton, hardware, &c. There were
likewise a number of little wine shops, where they also sold fruit, which
they usually have in great plenty, but all their crops depend much
upon the rains, and the inhabitants have also become indifferent or
careless about raising more than for their own supply, from the heavy
exactions of government made upon every thing that is cultivated.
The demand for shipping has of late years very much decreased.
The improvement in the supplies and comforts on board of vessels on
long voyages, now make it unnecessary to touch in port, as was
formerly deemed unavoidable.

Porto Praya is yet visited by whale-ships for supplies. Although
the soil is poor, and the crops very uncertain, yet the tropical fruits
and some vegetables can always be obtained here. They are usually,
if time is allowed, brought from the interior. The inhabitants have
at times suffered almost the extremes of famine, in consequence of the
droughts that prevail for successive years, and especially during the
one that took place in 1832. It gave me pleasure to hear that the
timely aid sent there during its prevalence from the United States was
remembered with gratitude.

The exports from these islands are salt, some ordinary wine, hides,
goats' skins, and orchilla. The latter is a government monopoly.
Ninety thousand milrees were paid by the company for the yearly
crop, and it is said at that price to yield a handsome profit.

The climate of these islands is said to be healthy, though exceedingly
warm. It is subject to fevers, which generally take place during the
rainy months of July and August. There is an indistinctness in the
atmosphere that I have not experienced elsewhere, which causes every
thing to be ill defined, although the day may be fair. The same
appearance was observed after a shower of rain as before. The
temperature of the air was found here to be 75-7°, and of the water 81°.

The seine was drawn for fish in one of the coves to the eastward
of the anchorage, in what we understood was a place well adapted
for the purpose, but it did not prove so. I should prefer the western
beach, as offering better luck and being more advantageous.

Bats were the only wild mammiferous animals seen here. For
the short time we remained, our naturalists were actively employed,
and many specimens were added to our collections in Ornithology,
botany, shells, and zoophytes, with some fossils from the bank already
spoken of.

Slaves are imported from the coast of Africa, and settlers or heads
of families are not allowed to bring with them more than ten slaves.

34 PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA

There was one at the consul's, recently imported from the Foolah
district in Africa, who was purchased by him for one hundred and
fifty dollars.

The costumes here are so various that it scarcely can be said that
any one of them is peculiar to the island. The men generally wear
a white shirt and trousers, with a dark vest, principally the cast-oft'
clothing of the whites. Others go quite naked, excepting a straw hat ;
others again are in loose shirts. The women have a shawl fastened
around them, with occasionally another thrown over them, covering
the mouth and bust, and crossing behind. The children for the most
part go naked.

The Relief not having arrived, I deemed it an unnecessary deten-
tion to await her here. There was great necessity of reaching Rio
de Janeiro as soon as possible, in order to complete our outfits,
and put the vessels in fit condition to meet the Antarctic cruising
as soon as possible. I therefore determined to proceed thither forth-
with. The store-ship did not reach Porto Praya until the 18th,
after a passage from Hampton Roads of sixty days. Nothing more
truly illustrates the necessity of navigating in the prevailing winds,
than this passage of the Relief compared with that of the squadron.
We took the route by Madeira, over one thousand miles greater in
distance, remained there a week, and yet we arrived at Porto Praya
eleven days sooner. The Relief, pursuing the direct route, had light
baffling winds during her whole passage. Although something is
undoubtedly due to her dull sailing, yet the difference is too great to be
entirely attributed to that cause. The winds were generally found by
her from the northward and eastward, and southward and eastward,
whilst we, in a higher latitude, had them from the southwest, and the
westward.

On the 7th of October, we left Porto Praya, and stood for Patty's
Overfalls, as laid down on the chart, in latitude 11° N., and longitude
24° 25' W. In the afternoon we spoke the Danish brig Lion, from
Rio de Jnneiro. She had crossed the line in longitude 27° W., and
had brought the trades to 6° 30' N. We lost the trade winds the day
after we left Porto Praya, the 8th of October, in latitude 12° N., and
longitude 23° 30' W. The winds then became variable, and squalls
of rain ensued. The upper clouds had still a quick motion to the
westward. On the same day we spoke the Crusader, seventy-five
days from Bombay, which vessel was in want of medical aid. I sent
the surgeon on board, and ad-rinistered to their wants every thing
that was in our power. It afforded us no small pleasure to suppb

TO RIO JANEIRO.

35

them with some fruit and vegetables, which were very acceptable to
the numerous passengers. The Crusader had crossed the line in
longitude 22° W., and lost the trades in latitude 7° 30' N.

On the 9th we reached the supposed position of Patty's Overfalls,
and were becalmed close in their proximity for forty-eight hours.
Nothing was seen of them. We had passed through rips trending
east and west, but no current was found on the trials which were
made, nor did the reckoning show any. If any had existed, we must
have been made aware of it during the time we were becalmed, for
we remained nearly in the same position forty-eight hours. Thence
we stood for Warley's Shoal. The weather had the same indistinct-
ness that we had first observed at Porto Praya. It might be termed
a dry haze.

In this part of the ocean we passed through spaces of water, from
ten to thirty miles in width, in which the temperature of the water
frequently rose three or four degrees. This increase seemed to me
to indicate the existence of currents. I was, therefore, very particular
in watching for them, and the only indication we had was of a very
slight one to the southward and eastward. Our winds continued light
and variable, and sailing in squadron, we had many opportunities
of observing their different courses. On the 12th of October a
remarkable one happened, in which all the squadron, while sailing
with a brisk breeze from the southeast, were taken aback, and at one
time all apparently had the wind from different quarters, although but
a few cables' length distant from one another. The Peacock and
Porpoise were very near running into each other. The whirl was in
the direction of the hands of a watch. On the night of the 16th we
parted company with the Peacock, and on the 17th spoke an English
whaler, seventy days from New Zealand, by the way of Cape Horn,
who reported he had lost the southeast trades in latitude 6° 55' N.,
longitude 21° 10' W.

On the morning of the 18th, thirty falling stars were seen in as
many minutes, shooting in all directions from the constellations
Gemini and Taurus. On board the Peacock, some sixty miles to the
westward of us, they were much more brilliant, and in greater
numbers.

On the 22d, several common European swallows were seen about
the vessels.

The 24th, we reached the position assigned to Warley's Shoal, in
latitude 5° 4' N., longitude 21° 25' W. The vessels were spread as
before described, in open order, covering as much space as possible.
We passed over the supposed locality, but saw no appearance of

36 PASSAGEFROMMADEIRA

shoal water, or danger of any kind. Here we experienced westerly
winds, and took advantage of them to make easting. After we had
lost the trades, in latitude 12° N., I observed, when the upper stratum
of clouds could be seen, that they were passing from east-northeast,
with rapidity to the westward.

We now ran for the French Shoal, in latitude 4° 5' N., longitude
20° 35' W. Here the wind inclined to the southward, and we pro-
ceeded as far east as longitude 13° W., passing over the two positions
laid down by the French and English hydrographers, but saw nothing
of it.

We now tacked to the southward, to cross the equator in longitude
17° W. The weather had changed, the rains which we had expe-
rienced at night ceased, and the extremely indistinct atmosphere
which at times had prevailed for the last fortnight, disappeared. It is
difficult to describe the peculiar effect this haziness produced. It
seemed to me an effect the opposite of that of looming, apparently
diminishing all objects. Although the horizon was seen, yet the sea
and sky were so blended together, that it was difficult for the eye to
fix upon or define it at any moment. It was impossible to use the dip
sector. At the same time it was perfectly clear over head, with a
bright sun, and the upper cirrus clouds, when seen, were in rapid
motion to the westward.

The quantity of rain that fell between 9° 30' and 5° north latitude,
was G-15 inches during ten days. The greatest fall in twenty-four
hours was 1-95 inches. The temperature of the rain on several trials
varied from 09° to 72°, that of the air being at the time 77°.

The nights wrere now beautiful until near morning, when it generally
clouded over, and remained overcast with flying clouds until evening.
The zodiacal light was once or twice observed, but the presence of
these clouds for the most part prevented it from being seen.

On the 29th, in latitude 3° 40' N., our observations gave a current of
ten miles in twenty-four hours, to the north. Until the 3d of November
we had light winds ; the upper stratum of clouds was now seen moving
from the east. On the 4th we had a cry of breakers from the mast-
head. We immediately changed our course and ran for the appear-
ance, but it proved on nearing it to have been one of the many optical
illusions seen at sea, from the effect of light and shadow.

On board the Peacock, on the 30th of October, in latitude 1° 30' N.,
longitude 18° W.. they witnessed a remarkable appearance, resembling
the aurora borealis, radiating from the northwest point of the horizon
in different directions, and extending from southwest round by the
north to the eastward, at an altitude of from 10° to 50°; afterwards

TO RIO JANEIRO.

37

reaching to the zenith, and passing over the moon's disk, encircling
her with a faint halo of twenty degrees in diameter. It continued an
hour, and although it was bright moonlight, the phenomenon was very
distinct and beautiful.

On the 5th, the winds drew to the south-southeast, and we crossed
the line, as we had intended, in longitude 17° W., which enabled us to
pass over and examine the supposed locality of the Triton Bank, in
longitude 17° 46' W., latitude 00° 32' 00" S. The current was
found this day to be setting to the northeast, fifteen miles in the
last twenty-four hours. This night the sea was extremely brilliant,
showing in large luminous patches. The light proved to be occasioned
by a large species of Pyrosoma, some of which were ten inches in
length, and two inches in diameter. Many phosphorescent animal-
culse were taken, and some rips that were seen, exhibited long lines
of brilliant light. Temperature of water 76-5°. Our dipping-needle
on the equator gave 23° 30'. Hourly observations were made for
forty-eight hours, to ascertain the oscillations of the barometer
under the equator (for which see Appendix XVI.) The periods of
oscillation were found to be as follows: the maxima at nine A. M.
and nine p. M., and the minima at three A. M. and three p. M. The
variation was *1 of an inch, and was found to be very regular, from
latitude 3° 30' N., to 4° S.

We had now heavy deposits of dew, on several fine and cloudless
evenings. Indeed the sun had scarcely set before the ship was quite
wet with it. One of the essential requisites supposed necessary by Dr.
Wells for a deposit of dew, wras certainly wanting in this case, viz.,
that " the temperature of the body on which it was deposited, should
be considerably lower than the surrounding air ;" — the temperature of
the air and ship having remained the same for several days at about
78° : all objects, hammock-cloths, spars, sails, and rigging, so far as
could be ascertained, showed the same. And at the time when the
dew was observed to be most copious, we had a fine breeze. It has
generally been supposed that dew never falls off soundings. This at
least is an old saying among seamen : but our observations are at
variance with this notion ; for, as far as every indication went, both by
sounding and blue water, we certainly had no bottom.

The supposed position of the Triton Shoal was now passed over,
and examined carefully in the same manner as heretofore described,
sounding at the same time with two and three hundred fathoms of
line. Nothing of the kind was perceived, nor was there any indication
of soundings in the discoloration of the water, or any change in its
temperature.

38 PASSAGEFROMMADEIRA

We next sailed for a vigia laid down on the chart.

On the 7th November at noon we were in longitude 18° 20' W.,
and latitude 3° 30' N. Here we first experienced the influence of the
equatorial current, and found it setting west by north at the rate of
half a mile per hour. This vigia was not seen. I then stood for
Bouvet's Sandy Isle, or its reported position. We saw nothing of it
whatever. I was very desirous of continuing my search farther to the
west, from the report I had seen of various vessels having experienced
shocks of earthquakes, and the belief having been entertained that
shoals might have been formed by them. The equatorial current
having been felt, I was aware that in getting farther to the west, I
should lose the opportunity of examining the locality where that
distinguished navigator, Admiral Krusenstern, supposed he saw a
volcano. I therefore gave up proceeding farther to the westward in
this latitude, and hauled up for its position.

It was now the 9th of November ; we had delightful weather ; and
moderate breezes from the south and east.

An amusing circumstance occurred this night. In our course we
passed very near a large sail, which from the night being dark, the
officer of the deck of the Porpoise mistook for the Vincennes, although
sailing on a different course. He immediately, agreeably to his orders,
followed the vessel, and continued after her until morning, when, to
his surprise, he discovered that it was a large Dutch ship. Fortu-
nately, I had perceived the ship pass, and conjectured, when we found
the Porpoise was not in sight at daylight, the nature of the mistake. I
therefore retraced my steps, and in an hour or two we again came in
sight of her, then tacked and proceeded on our course. On the next
day, the time being very favourable, we hove-to, to get a deep-sea
sounding with the wire line, and ran out one thousand six hundred
fathoms of it. On reeling it up, the wire parted, and we lost nine
hundred and sixty fathoms of line, with our sounding apparatus,
including one of Six's self-registering thermometers. The wire was
badly prepared and ill adapted to the purpose.

On the llth we found ourselves near the location of Krusenstern's
supposed shoal, ran over the position in parallel lines, and satisfied
ourselves of its non-existence.

Having now examined all the localities which were designated in
my instructions, I made all sail for Rio de Janeiro.

We now found ourselves in the equatorial current, setting us west
twenty-five miles in twenty-four hours.

On the nights of the llth, 12th, and 13th, we kept a watch for the
periodical showers of stars. About thirty were seen in the mid-watch

TO RIO JANEIRO. 39

of the 13th, proceeding from the Pleiades, and shooting in a northerly
direction. Our position was in latitude 6° 15' S., and longitude 24°
25' W. The Peacock, whose situation was about forty miles to the
westward of us at the time, saw a number shooting from the constel-
lations Orion and Leo. The equatorial current was now strongest,
setting thirty miles in a day to the westward ; the breeze had become
very steady and strong ; the upper current was found to correspond
with the direction of the lower. Every day the wind was observed
to freshen as the sun was coming to the meridian, and continued so
until the afternoon, when it died away again, freshening after dark,
and continuing until near daylight.

On the 16th of November we passed the magnetic equator in latitude
13° 30' S., longitude 30° 18' W. The variation was found by careful
observations to be 10° 30' W. We continued to pursue our course
rapidly, experiencing the current setting more to the southward, and
upwards of twenty miles a day.

On the 22d we made Cape Frio ; here we fell in with and boarded
ship Louisiana, in fifty days from New York, and were much
gratified by getting letters and papers.

The progressive temperature on the passage from the Cape de Verde
Islands to Rio, was as follows : it rose until it reached its maximum
in 9° 24' N., water 83-5°, whilst the air was at 81-6° ; from thence
to striking soundings, it decreased to 75°, and on soundings 69°.

The soundings obtained off the cape were in fifty fathoms, ouze and
shells, the water changing its colour to a deep green, and as we
ipproached the harbour, to a dark olive. On the afternoon of the 23d
)f November, we took a light wind from the southeast, and with all
sail set stood in for the magnificent harbour of Rio Janeiro. Our
ittention was drawn first to the high, fantastic, and abrupt peaks of
iavia, the Sugar Loaf, and Corcovado, on our left ; whilst on our
right, we had the bold point of Santa Cruz ; then before us the city of
>an Salvador, and the towns of San Domingo, with Praya Grande
opposite, and the islands and fleet that lay between them decking this
jautiful expanse of water. These objects, with the pinnacles of the
Organ Mountains for a background, form such a scene that it would
be difficult to point out in what manner it could be improved. The
life and stir created by the number of vessels, boats, and steamers of
various forms and of all sizes passing to and fro, give great animation
to the whole.

The mountains present a very peculiar appearance. Their tops and
sides have a rounded or worn surface, destitute of verdure, with the
exception of here and there a yellowish patch, produced by the

40 PASSAGE FROM MADEIRA

Tillandsias, which in places cover the rocks. The abruptness of the
Sugar Loaf Mountain, and those immediately behind Santa Cruz,
strikes the spectator very forcibly.

The shipping do not form as in other places a dense forest of masts.
There being no wharves, they are obliged to lie at anchor, exhibiting
their proportions and symmetry to great advantage. They are usually
seen grouped together, with their different flags flying, forming a
picture that a painter would delight in.

As we proceeded up the harbour, our own flag was seen to wave
over that magnificent specimen of naval architecture, the Indepen-
dence ; and as we passed her, our bosoms beat to the tune of Hail
Columbia, played by the band.

There is a feeling of security on entering the harbour of Rio, that
I have seldom experienced elsewhere, not even in our own waters.
The mountains seem as it were to afford complete protection from the
winds and ocean. We anchored near Enxados or Hospital Island,
and found the Peacock had arrived here three days before us, and
that she was proceeding with her repairs rapidly. The vessels being
altogether unfit for the southern cruise, it became necessary to effect
the requisite repairs as speedily as possible. While I could not but
deprecate the loss of time and the shortening of the season for our
southern operations, I felt it an imperative duty that I owed to those
who were engaged with me on this service, not to suffer them to go
among the many dangers of our southern cruise badly provided with
the means to secure them against ordinary accidents, and to encounter
the weather we must necessarily anticipate.

On our arrival I was told it was the beginning of the hot season,
and that rains usually prevailed during the coming months. This was
unpleasant news, particularly as I was desirous, whilst making the
necessary repairs on the vessels, to complete a set of astronomical
observations, and to perform a series of experiments with the pendu-
lums, &c. This information, however, I did not find to be correct,
and from the examination of the meteorological tables (see Appendix
XVII.) obligingly furnished me by John Gardner, Esq., an American
gentleman residing at Rio, I am not disposed to credit this common
saying. It therein appears that rain falls as often in other months as in
December, and my experience during the time of our stay corresponds
with these tables. The first fortnight we had occasional rains, but
before we left the harbour our parties reported that the country was
suffering from drought.

Mr. Gardner has also obligingly favoured me with a table (see
Appendix XVIII.) showing the monthly average of passages from the

TO RIO JANEIRO.

41

United States to Rio during eight years, from 1834 to 1841. The
shortest passage occurred in the year 1835, and the longest in 1840.
The former by a very fast vessel in twenty-nine days ; the latter by an
ordinary merchant-ship in ninety days. The Relief, our store-ship,
had one hundred days in 1838 ! but this includes touching three days
at the Cape de Verdes.

It will be seen that the average monthly passage does not vary but
a few days throughout the whole eight years. The winter months
are the most favourable, in consequence of the strong westerly winds
that prevail in the North Atlantic at that season, and also to the preva-
lence of the northeast monsoons on the coast of Brazil.

Our observations would point out the necessity of dull-sailing vessels
not crossing the equator to the westward of 20° of west longitude,
where the equatorial current begins to be felt; but vessels that sail
well, may cross it as far as 26° W., particularly when the northeast
monsoons prevail in their full strength, and very much shorten their
passage by such a course.

During the repairs, I endeavoured to employ my time and that of
the officers and scientific gentlemen in as advantageous a manner as
possible. We are indebted to the Hon. William Hunter, our charge
d'affaires, and our consul, William Slacum, Esq., for many kindnesses
and attentions received during our stay. Through their intercession, I
obtained the use of the small island of Enxados, which was well
adapted to our purposes. The instruments and stores were allowed to
be landed there free of inspection, and every assistance we could desire
was afforded us by the government and its officers. How different a
policy and treatment from that pursued towards Captain Cook some
seventy years before, under an ignorant and jealous colonial govern-
ment !

AVATKRJNG FLACK, PORTO J'KAYA.

CHAPTER III.

CONTENTS.

CITY OP SAN SALVADOR— ITS IMPROVEMENT— ITS PRESENT CONDITION— CHURCHES—
THE MISERICORDIA — FUNERALS-EMPEROR'S BIRTHD AY— AQUEDUCTS— GEOLOGICAL
CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY — PUBLIC GARDEN — MUSEUM— BAY AND HARBOUR —
VEGETATION — BOTANIC GARDEN — SLAVE POPULATION — COFFEE-CARRIERS — RE-
SEARCHES INTO THE NATIONS OF AFRICA— TREATMENT OF SLAVES— STREETS OF
THE CITY— SOCIETY— WHITE-JACKET BALL— ARRIVAL OF THE RELIEF— ASCENT OF
THE SUGAR LOAF — SURVEYS— DEFECTS IN THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SQUADRON—
TRIP TO THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS — JAUNT TO PIEDADE— CONCLUSION OF THE
SURVEYS AND OBSERVATIONS— ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADO.

(43)

CHAPTER III.

RIO JANEIRO.

1838.

THE city of San Salvador, better known as Rio de Janeiro, has
been often described. At the time of our visit a great change
appeared to have taken place within a few years, as well in its
outward appearance as in its government and institutions, thus giv-
ing to the whole a different aspect from that it formerly wore. Under
its former monarch, Don Pedro the First, it had all the aspect of a
court residence ; now it is the very reverse. I shall, therefore, give
my own impressions, and sketch a picture of its state as we found it
in the latter part of the year 1838.

Republican forms, habits, and customs, are gradually creeping in
under its new and reformed constitution. It is not to be denied that
the people now appear to be much better off than formerly, and more
at liberty to carry on their lawful pursuits. Commerce, and inter-
course with foreigners are every day making liberal advances.
Every one, on his first landing at Rio, will be struck with the
indiscriminate mingling of all classes, in every place, all appearing
on terms of the utmost equality ; — officers, soldiers, and priests, both
black and white, mixing and performing their respective duties,
without regard to colour or appearance. The only distinction seems
to be that of freedom and slavery. There are many wealthy free
blacks, highly respectable, who amalgamate with the white families,
and are apparently received on a footing of perfect equality. The
solice, too, consisting of a national guard, has taken away those forms
jf military parade that formerly existed. An air of independence/is
creeping in even among the working-classes. Any little service that
is required, and for which they are well paid, they appear to consider
is a favour done you. The mechanical arts are at least half a century

(45)

46 RIOJANEIRO.

behind those of our own country. The churches, which are numerous,
are falling into decay, which gives a dilapidated look to the city ; its
religious ceremonies are dispensed with, and to crown all, the steps of
the churches are made a market-place for the sale of sheep, pigeons,
fruit, &c. To judge from appearances, and the attendance on its
services, there exists little religious feeling towards the Roman Church.
It is true, the same constant ringing of bells occurs that is to be heard
in all Catholic countries, and other outward signs are still kept up ; but
the priesthood are not regarded with such awe as they formerly were,
and society seems to be breaking through the trammels that have so
long enslaved the female portion of it. Religion is a mere name
among the youth of Brazil. The aged are still observant of its cere-
monies, but little or no attention is paid to the Sabbath. The stores
do business, and the workshops are open the same as on other days.
A few are seen going to worship in the morning of that day, but a
greater number attend the billiard-tables in the afternoon, and the
theatres at night. There is an Episcopal church, and a missionary
of the Methodist persuasion from the United States resident here.

We saw Rio de Janeiro under its most favourable aspect, that of
the holidays, when the church had put on all her finery and decora-
tions, and every one, slave as well as master, seemed intent upon
enjoying himself. The Christmas week or holidays give a respite
from all labour, and various are the amusements. The churches
are decked, and the services extraordinary.

The neglect of the public walks and roads shows a want of proper
attention, and strikes the visitor as different from the usual order of
things around a court. So far as cleanliness goes, Rio, I should
think, is not much improved. It has every advantage to make it
a clean city, but the inclination appears to be wanting. Neither do I
intend to assert that its style of building is changed. Although the
government is doing little, one sees the spirit of enterprise among
the citizens. Many private dwellings are being erected, and I under-
stood that many other improvements were taking place.

The houses of the city are strongly built of stone, cemented together
with clay; this is used in consequence of the scarcity of lime, which
is only obtained by burning shells fished up from the bay. The houses
are plastered on the outside, and have a pretty appearance and colour.
The floors, beams, and roofs, are made of the hard wood of the coun-
try, of great size and strength, which are indeed necessary from the
great tile roof they have to bear. Very few of the houses have yards,
cellars, or gardens : consequently the dwellers are still greatly incom-
moded from the want of water-closets, detrimental both to health and

RIO JANEIRO.

47

comfort, and not only an annoyance and inconvenience to the inhabi-
tants themselves, but is shared by the stranger in passing through the
streets.

We of course saw all that was to be seen in Rio. The churches
claimed our first attention. They are richly decorated in the interior,
with massive gold and silver ornaments, and at this time glittering
with gems and precious stones. On some of the altars of the saints it
is the practice to suspend the diseased parts of the body in wax, in
honour of the cure supposed to have been effected by the saints' inter-
cession. The sight of these is truly disgusting, although they are far
from being well executed. The chapel of St. Cecilia was visited on
the saint's day, 25th November. The music was very fine, from a
large choir, consisting, besides the organ, of flutes, hautboys, horns,
and basses of all kinds, with about ten vocalists, two of whom were
eunuchs, about seventy years of age. The music consisted of selec-
tions from the best masters. The performers were about seventy in
number. The steps of the church and the street were strewed on this
occasion with orange-leaves. A number of females present were
seated on the floor of the church, dressed in black, with white lace
shawls, and wreaths of flowers round their heads. Fireworks, as
usual in such ceremonies, were set off in front of the church at the
beginning and end of the service.

The Misericordia has now become much out of repair, and I
understood had fallen off in its charitable usefulness, but it still shows
the remains of its former splendour. Few monks were seen about,
arid dead bodies were laid out in the Green House. At the time we
visited it there were eight, the greater part of whom were negroes. A
monk was seen saying a hasty prayer over the bodies, which were at
once thrown into the trench, when they were sprinkled with lime,
placing one layer over the other, until the hole, about six feet square
and as many deep, is filled or level with the surface. After one of the
trenches is filled, another is dug by the side of it. The crowded state of
this place of interment is but too evident from the number of skulls and
bones lying about, some still with portions of flesh adhering to them.

On the same evening, whilst this scene was still fresh in our minds,
and as if in strong contrast with it, we met the funeral of a person of
distinction. A black hearse, ornamented with black plumes, was
drawn by mules. The driver had a cocked-hat and black plume.
The coffin was covered with a scarlet pall ornamented with silver.
About twenty altar-boys, in their church dress, preceded the hearse,
which was surrounded by about the same number of black servants.

48 RIOJANEIRO.

in livery, all carrying lighted wax candles. The body, on arriving at
the Imperial Chapel, was removed into it, and all who entered the
chapel were furnished with lighted tapers. Mass and the funeral
service were performed by the priest, and some delightful music by a
full choir. The body was then taken into the Campo Santo, a kind of
amphitheatre, with high walls, a short distance from the church.
About a thousand vaults are built in the wall. One of them was
opened, the body interred, and the wall built up again. The centre of
this sepulchre is laid out in a flower-garden, and is about one hundred
feet in diameter.

December 2d was the birthday of the Emperor, Don Pedro the
Second, who then was thirteen years old. It was celebrated with all
due pomp. Great preparations had been making for many days. He
was to pass into the city from St. Christoval, his usual residence, in
procession, and to hold a levee at the city palace. The streets were
strewn with orange and other leaves, a triumphal arch erected, &c.
But a description of his progress will give a better idea of it.

Having left St. Christoval, he entered the city about noon, preceded
by a large troop of horse. He rode with his sisters, one sixteen, the
other fourteen years of age, in a splendid English carriage, with
bronze and gold mountings, drawn by eight cream-coloured horses,
gaily caparisoned, with silver-mounted harness, the servants in rich
liveries. Three carriages, drawn by six horses each, followed, con-
taining officers of state and his household, the whole surrounded by
the Emperor's guards, and above five thousand military following.
Great crowds of people had assembled to witness this parade. As the
carriages passed under the balconies, garlands of flowers were thrown
upon them. They entered the principal street through a triumphal
arch, beautifully decorated with natural flowers, on which were placed
two little boys, dressed in blue and pink, with wings to represent
angels, each holding a basket of flowers, which they threw on the
young monarch as he passed. The houses in the streets through
which the procession -moved, were hung with satin damask draperies
of the richest tints. These I understand are kept expressly for such
occasions. At short intervals national flags were suspended across
the streets. On the custom-house the flags of every nation were seen,
in the centre of which was the Brazilian, and next to it the " star-
spangled banner." The Emperor moved on, receiving the same
marks of affection from his subjects until he reached the great square
and palace, where he alighted. The troops forming around the square
soon came to order, and a general pause ensued, until the firing of the

RIO JANEIRO. 4S)

fen de joie began, one of the most deafening I ever heard. He finished
this public exhibition by showing himself to the multitude below, from
the balconies of the city palace, and was received with many vivas.

He then held his levee, which the Rev. Mr. Walsh has so well
described, and which closely resembled the one at which he was
present, with this difference, that this was much more of a farce, in
consequence of the boyhood of the Emperor. Nothing can be more
ridiculous than to see all the dignitaries, and old men, the mitred
bishop, the sage diplomatist, and the veteran soldier, ushered into the
presence, and out again, without saying a word, or turning their backs
on the young monarch. Mr. Walsh has, however, said nothing about
the scene in the ante-room ; to me it was the most ridiculous of all.
The arranging the order of entrance to the presence, with due form
and etiquette ; the examination by each diplomatist, that he has his
due order of precedence ; their anxiety to gather their suites around
them, not unlike a hen with her chickens, to make the fullest show ; all
prepares one for the ridiculous scene that is to follow. The oldest
resident minister always takes the lead. At night the city was
illuminated.

Rio is now well supplied with water. Aqueducts have been finished
within the last two years, which bring it from the Corcovado and
Tejuca Mountains, a distance of six or seven miles. There are a
number of public fountains in different parts of the city. All the water
for the supply of families is transported by slaves, who are constantly
seen about these fountains. Until the amount of toil and time occupied
is seen, little idea can be formed of the saving of labour that hydrants
and pipes, for the supply of this necessary article, effect. These
fountains have numerous jets, and some have pretty edifices over them.
During the day, there are seldom less than fifty to one hundred, both
male and female, water-carriers around them, filling their jars, with
which they are seen moving about poised on their heads. Near the
large fountain called Hafariz, in the square of Santa Anna, are two
large basins, about fifty feet long and twenty-five wide. These are
commonly filled with about two hundred negro women, who daily
assemble to wash. Numbers of them are half naked, standing up to
their middle in the water, beating and thrashing the clothes against the
stone wall, to the great destruction of buttons, &c.

Few articles are transported in any other way than by slaves, and
it is extremely rare to see a cart drawn by any beast of burden.
Antique-looking carriages and two-wheeled calescas are generally
seen.

It is impossible to remain long at Rio without noticing the geolo-

VOL. I.

50 RIOJANEIRO.

gical structure of the country. It is all granitic, and occurs in vast
blocks. Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge, who visited the Organ
Mountains, reported that the country was of the same general cha-
racter, but on a much grander scale.

The garden at the water side is delightfully situated. From this
point the bay offers amusement at all hours. I should think the people
of Rio might be classed among the indolent, and that they are not
fond of walking; for the garden appears to be but little frequented.

The museum is open twice a week : it is quite creditable to the
city, and well worth seeing. It appears to attract more attention from
the inhabitants of Rio than I should have been led to expect. It is
extremely rich in its native collections, and is well taken care of.

The theatres, of which there are three, are seldom open on week
days, but always on Sunday.

The sail up the bay is beautiful. The surrounding picturesque
peaks, varying their outline with every change of position, give it
great variety, and the objects are so interesting that one is never tired.
The many islets that stud this bay add greatly to its beauty, and excite
interest, covered as they are with tribes of tropical plants, all new to
the eye. Among these are seen tufts of Bromelias and Cactus, while
Orchidese plants were abundant on the rocks and trees.

This bay is usually covered with small boats, passing to and fro,
felucca rigged, without decks, and generally about twelve tons burden.
These boats are rowed by blacks, who are seen toiling at their task.
The oars are large, the men row in a standing posture, and thus add
the weight of their bodies to their strength. At times, the bay seems
alive with the number of these vessels, and of small canoes, each
made of a single trunk, which are used in fishing. Many of these
vessels are also engaged in the coasting trade. Foreigners are usually
employed to take charge of the latter, which sail under the Brazilian
flag. Steamers are beginning to be used. One plies between Rio and
Santos, and during our stay, another left the harbour for Montevideo.
The greater part of the vessels in the bay are under foreign flags, and
I was much surprised to observe how few comparatively are English,
and how many are from the north of Europe.

The harbour of Rio may be considered as not extending farther
than Enxados Island, above which few vessels lie. The front of the
city is not well adapted for wharves, and none consequently exist.
There are some stairs ; but they are not well protected from the sea,
which at times renders landing almost impossible.

The environs of the city were visited by many of our naturalists
and officers, and although this ground has been so often gone over by

RIOJANEIRO. 51

others, it was yet found to offer many objects of interest, and we
believe of novelty, particularly in the waters of this bay.

In Rio, the vegetation seems to fix the attention above all other
things, especially of those situated as we were in the harbour, having
it continually before one's eyes ; and I can well understand the depri-
vation Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Solander must have experienced in
their visit. Our naturalists remarked that although the productions
are still American in character, the same families prevailing, often the
same genera, yet they were entirely distinct in species from those
of other parts of the continent. As an example the Furcroea takes
the place of the Mexican Agaves. The Furcroea is a peculiar plant,
vnd attracts attention by its bayonet-shaped leaves, branching up in
every direction; some of these are ten or twelve feet in height and ten
inches in diameter. This plant, with the well-known Cecropia, with
its candelabra branches, and the prevailing yellow blossoms of the
trees, give a peculiar and lively character to the landscape and woods,
when compared with the dull sombre hue of our own forests.

Here, as in all tropical climates, the truth of the remark made by a
botanist, " that every thing grows into shrubs and trees," is obvious.
Herbaceous plants are rare, and annuals may be said to be almost
wanting. The fruit trees were generally seen bearing fruit and flowers
at the same time. This was the case, as observed by one of our
party, even in the cultivated apple on the Tejuca Mountains.

The vegetation near the coast differs considerably from that of the
inland country. Plants are more dense and succulent, species and
tribes have little of a local nature ; yet particular kinds of palms and
bamboos are found in separate groups on the top of the Organ
Mountains, but this is only a slight exception to the general rule,
which nature seems to have adopted in the distribution of plants over
the country. This character strikes the observer forcibly in the
Cecropias, Ca3salpinia brasiliensis, and several Melastomas, which are
rarely seen in pairs.

The Botanic Garden is in a flat situation, backed by a high ridge
of mountainous land. In front, is a lake of brackish water, which
forms a considerable bay, and communicates with the sea by a narrow
inlet. The entrance to the garden has a mean appearance, and does
not correspond with the broad promenades within, which are planted
with trees on each side. The whole is laid out in the old Dutch
style; seats, arbours, and houses are cut out of Arbor vitae (Thuja
orientals). Terrestrial Orchideas are cultivated in earthen vases
placed in rows in the herbaceous ground, which appeared to have been
once planted after the Jussieuean, or natural system, but is now some-

52 R I O J A N E I R O.

what out of order. In the centre of the garden was a small fountain,
near which grew some fine specimens of the splendid Bougainvillea
bracteatea, in full flower. There is also a fine collection of Orchidea3,
which are cultivated on decayed trunks of trees. The bread-fruit
trees (Artocarpus incisa, and integrifolia) succeed very well. There
were some trees of both kinds forty feet high, and the fruit of the
latter as large as an ordinary watermelon. The rows of trees along
the sides of the walks were principally Apeiba hispida, Theobroma
cacao, several kinds of Lauraceae and Myrtacea?, with a species of
Casuarina, introduced from New South Wales. Several groups of
bamboos had a good effect among the other trees, but their stems bore
evidence of a propensity to the carving of names, as a memento of the
distinguished persons' visit. Among them I was glad to see the
names of many Europeans, which serves to prove that this habit does
not exist among Americans alone. Here an attempt was made some
years since to introduce the tea-plant, with natives of China to
cultivate it. The plantation appeared to our botanical gentlemen in a
sickly state.

The great and distinctive characteristic of Rio may be said to be
its slaves and slavery. This evil continually presents itself to the
observer, and he cannot, if he would, divert his attention from the
many sights which keep it before his mind.

The slave population is stated at five times the number of that of the
whites, and notwithstanding the existing danger of maritime capture,
the supply still seems equal to the demand. Although many slavers
are taken by the English cruisers, brought in and tried by the mixed
commission, agreeably to treaty, yet means are found to introduce the
slaves. Two slavers were lying in charge of the English squadron
while we were there. On board of them, though quite small vessels,
were two and three hundred negroes. It is difficult to imagine more
emaciated, miserable, and beastly-looking creatures, and it is not a
little surprising that they should be kept thus confined by those who
affect to establish their freedom and ameliorate their condition. These
vessels it is understood had obtained their victims on the eastern coast
of Africa.

Slaves are almost the only carriers of burdens in Rio Janeiro. They
go almost naked, and are exceedingly numerous. They appear to work
with cheerfulness, and go together in gangs, with a leader who carries
a rattle made of tin, and filled with stones, (similar to a child's rattle.)
With this he keeps time, causing them all to move on a dog-trot.
Each one joins in the monotonous chorus, the notes seldom varying
above a third from the key. The words they use are frequently

RIO JANEIRO.

53

relative to their own country ; sometimes to what they heard from
their master, as they started with their load, but the sound is the

same.

Ri-pcRted several times.

Ve na ca - a man - yan a a Par a can tar sen hor a.

Another.

COFFEE-CARRIERS.

The coffee-carriers go along in large gangs of twenty or thirty,
sinin—

Another.

-e

One half take the air, with one or two keeping up a kind of a hum
on the common chord, and the remainder finish the bar.

These slaves are required by their masters to obtain a certain sum,
according to their ability, say from twenty-five to fifty cents a day.

54 RIOJANEIRO.

and to pay it every evening. The surplus belongs to themselves. In
default of not gaining the required sum, castigation is always inflicted.

It is said that the liberated negroes who own slaves are particularly
severe and cruel. The usual load carried is about two hundred
pounds weight.

Mr. Hale, our philologist, found here a field of some extent in his
department, through the slave population ; and it afforded more
opportunities for its investigation than would at first appear probable.
Vast numbers of slaves have been, and are still imported annually
into this market ; and as very many of the same nation or tribe
associate together, they retain their own language, even after they
have been in the country for some years. It may be seen by the
most cursory examination that they are marked in such a manner as
to serve to distinguish their different races. Some have little of the
distinctive negro character, and others more of it than any human
beings we had seen. Mr. Hale obtained from a gentleman of Rio the
following information respecting them, with their distinctive marks;
the accuracy of which we had an opportunity of verifying during
our stay. The likenesses made of them by Mr. Agate are very cha-
racteristic.

The negroes of Brazil who have been brought from North and

O O

South Africa, are divided into two distinct and very dissimilar classes.
The natives of that portion of the continent known under the general
name of Upper Guinea, include the countries in the interior as far
as Timbuctoo and Bornou, being the whole of that region lately
explored by the English expeditions. The slaves from this quarter,
though of various nations and languages, have yet a general likeness,
which stamps them as one race. In Brazil they are known under the
name of Minas.

The Minns slaves are said to be distinguished from others by their

RIOJANEIRO. 55

bodily and mental qualities. They are generally above the middle
height, and well formed. The forehead is high, and the cheek-bones
prominent; the nose sometimes straight and sometimes depressed;
the lips not very thick ; teeth small and perpendicularly set ; the hair
is woolly, and the colour an umber or reddish brown, approaching
to black.

The look and bearing of the Mina blacks are expressive of intel-
ligence and dignity, and they betray little of the levity usually ascribed
to the negro race.

In Brazil they occupy the highest position that slaves are allowed
to attain, being employed as confidential servants, artisans, and small
traders. Th y look down upon, and refuse to have any connexion
with, or participation in, the employment of the other negroes. Many
of them write and read the Arabic, and all can repeat some sentences
of it. The greatest number of slaves who purchase their freedom
belong to this race.

The e is one singularity which seems to be common to the inhabi-
tants of both regions, and which may be compared with the practice
of tattooing which prevails throughout the tribes of Polynesia, viz.,
the custom of cutting or branding certain marks upon the face and
body, by which the individuals of one tribe may be distinguished from
those of any other. This practice is general among all the Minas,
and also prevails along the eastern or Mozambique coast of Southern
Africa. Among the western or Congo tribes it does not appear to be
universal. It will be readily understood that these marks are of great
service to the slave-traders, and all that have much to do with native
Africans soon learn to distinguish them ; and the price of a slave is
depressed or enhanced accordingly. Among the Mina nations, so
called after a port on the Slave Coast in Upper Guinea, where these
slaves are obtained, this practice is carried to its greatest extent.
Each province or city of importance has a distinct brand or mark,
which is invariable for all the inhabitants.

Of the tribes speaking the Houssa language, the Goobere, or Gu-
beri, from the kingdom of Bornou, have three or four marks on each
side of the mouth, converging towards the corners.

Those from the town of Kano, inhabited by a population of traders,
have several perpendicular and parallel marks on each cheek.

V\\\

The same mark prevails among the people of Kashua and Labbi,
neighbours of the foregoing.

56 RIOJANEIRO.

The Soccatoos, or Sakatus, on a branch of the Quorra, have several
fine long oblique marks, converging towards the corners of the mouth.

Dawwarra or Dawara : these have parallel oblique lines, drawn to
the corners of the mouth, with shorter marks meeting or bordering
them above and below.

The men of the Nago or Yarribe nation, on the west bank of the
Niger or Quorra, below the Houssa, have three or four longitudinal
marks on each side of the mouth.

Ill Sill

Those of the women are more complicated.

The Tacqua, otherwise called Nouffie or Nyffie, live on the eastern
side of the Quorra, opposite the former, and have two or three oblique
lines drawn to the corners of the mouth.

The Fantees and Ashantees inhabit that part of the coast of Guinea
known as the Slave Coast, and the country in the interior. The
former have no distinguishing mark ; the latter are characterized by
scars produced by burns on the forehead and cheeks.

The Minas are held in much fear in Brazil. They are extremely
numerous at Bahia, and it is understood, that during a late insurrec-
tion, they had fully organized themselves, and were determined to
institute a regular system of government. They had gone so far as
to circulate writings in Arabic, exhorting their fellows in bondage to
make the attempt to recover their liberty.

RIO JANEIRO.

57

The Calabars, on the Gulf of Benin, near the mouth of the Quorra,
are marked with two lozenge-shaped brands on the breast and
stomach.

The Eboes live near the preceding, at the separation of the
mouths of the Quorra. Their mark is an arrow on each
temple. The town of Ebo is a great mart for the surrounding
country.

The nations to the south of the equator, have the usual form of the
negro, agreeably to our ideas. Those of the slaves at Rio de Janeiro,
are, in general, short, badly formed, or clumsy, with narrow foreheads,
flat noses, protruding jaws and teeth, and prominent cheek-bones, with
the chin sloping backwards. They are indolent, thoughtless, and
licentious. They may be seen in the streets at all hours, employed as
carriers, earning the stipulated sum for their masters. And when this
is gained, they are to be found stretched out on the sidewalk, under the
porticoes, or on the steps of churches, enjoying themselves as mere
animals, basking in the sun or sleeping in the shade. They are not
deficient in intelligence : the defect is less in their intellectual powers
than in their character, which appears to want energy.

Tattooing, or marking, does not prevail among the tribes of Lower
Guinea to such an extent. The Kambindas, who border immediately
upon the Minas, appear to have borrowed from them the custom, but
employ it rather for the purpose of ornament than as a mode of dis-
tinguishing their origin. The marks or figures with which they brand
themselves are various, and sometimes ornamental. They are called
in Brazil, Kambindas, after the town on the river Zaire or Congo, at
which they are procured.

Csl

Of the Sundi or Mayomba, who live immediately north of Loango,
between latitude 3° and 4° S., some have a row or band of small
cicatrices coming from each shoulder to the centre of the breast, like

O

the ends of a pelerine ; others have various arabesque ornaments.

VOL. I. 8

58

RIO JANEIRO.

Those who come from Buali, the capital of the Loango district, in
about latitude 4° 30' S., have marks like the preceding, on the breast,
and others on the arms.

k

Towards the south, tattooing is less common, and among the Goy
or Angoya people (the Kambindas proper), few but women are so
ornamented. Their marks are characterized in the three figures
appended.

I

\

I
I

The Angoyans, however, file their teeth after a peculiar fashion,
each tooth being cut down or filed in the centre, so that only the sides
are left standing ; the contiguous sides of the teeth form a single saw-
like tooth.

The inhabitants of the town of Embomma, on the north bank of the
river Congo, are distinguished by the teeth being filed so that each
tooth forms a point.

The Mundjola, a savage tribe, live in the interior, beyond the
Loango district, with whose inhabitants they are constantly engaged
in wars, made expressly to procure slaves. They are esteemed the
least valuable of all the blacks imported into Brazil, being stupid,
ferocious, and intractable. In Africa they are stigmatized as man-
eaters by the other negroes. The Mundjola have the usual negro
features, with somewhat of a Tartar expression. Their cheeks are
furrowed longitudinally by numerous parallel lines.

Of the exact geographical position of the Mundjola, no definite

RIO JANEIRO.

59

information was known. The part of the continent which they are
said to inhabit is still unexplored ; the account which one of them
gave Mr. Hale was, that he had been three days with his captors in
canoes, from his native place, M'te, situated on the great river Muote,
before reaching Loango, where he embarked. It is probable that M'te
is in the interior, two or three hundred miles northeast of Loango, and
that he was brought to the coast by the Zaire river ; but in this wild
unexplored ground, all is yet conjecture. The next town or tribe to
M'te he called Mudimbe.

The extensive territory, bounded on the north by the river Coanza,
in latitude 9° 20' S., on the west by the Atlantic, on the south by the
Great Desert, which interposes between it and the country of the
Hottentots, and reaching to an indefinite distance in the interior, is
known under the name of Benguela, or as the natives pronounce it,
Bengera. Over this extent of country, comprising at least half of
Lower Guinea, the same general language is supposed to prevail,
though subdivided into several dialects.

BKNGUELAN.

The Benguela blacks have a much higher character as slaves than

60

RIO JANEIRO.

the other nations of Lower Guinea. They are next in estimation to
the Minas, being steady, industrious, and intelligent. They make
excellent husbandmen. They are generally of good height, with
features having less of the negro stamp than those of the Congo : the
forehead tolerably high, the nose not much depressed, and the lips
moderately full.

The extent of the Congo territory is now comprised between the
Zaire and Dande rivers, or about two hundred miles of sea-coast.
These limits define with sufficient accuracy the extent within which
the Congo language prevails.

The Congocs file their teeth after the fashion of the Angoyas.
Sometimes, though not often, they have a few marks on each temple.

0 0"»

The Angola and the Kasanji are considered in Rio as of different
nations, but their languages are the same, with hardly a dialectical

RIO JANEIRO. 61

difference, and it is extremely soft in pronunciation. Some of the
natives found great difficulty in enunciating sounds of the Portuguese,
saying balaba for barba, cibali for cidade. Though the Angola and
Kasanji spoke the same language, yet there was a considerable differ-
ence between the dialects of two Angolas, the one from Loando on
the coast, the other from M'baka, or Ambacca, about three hundred
miles in the interior.

From the best information, it is believed that the only distinction
between them is, that the Angolas are under the domination of the
Portuguese government, and the Kasanji are the free natives of the
interior.

The former inhabit a narrow province, from sixty to eighty miles
in width, between the two rivers Dande and Coanza, and extending
inland something more than one hundred leagues, or as far as the
Portuguese power can make itself felt; the latter, commencing at this
point, are spread over a large territory in the interior of the continent.
One of the natives stated the time it took to go from Loando (the
Portuguese seaport) to Kasanji to be three months, and to return,
two ; the former journey, as far as it was made in boats, being against
the stream.

The eastern coast of Africa, from the equator to the Hottentots 'of
the Cape, is occupied by two nations or races of people, which, though
bearing marks of a common origin, are yet perfectly distinct. Each
of them is subdivided into several minor tribes or clans. The first of
these may be called the Mozambique or Makua, and the second the
Caffre race.

The Mozambique or Makua tribe, are the people who possess all the
country inland of the Portuguese and Arab settlements, Melinda,
Quilao, Mozambique, Quilimane, and Sofala. They occupy the country
which was formerly comprised in the empire of Motapa, but is now
divided between the Portuguese and several native provinces. The

02 R I O J A N E I R O.

southern boundary of this people appears to be the river Inhambane,
which empties into the Indian Ocean, near Cape Corientes, under the
southern tropic. The negroes who inhabit the country near the Portu-
guese settlement of Mozambique, are the Mozambique or Makuans :
they differ little in their character or bodily conformation from the
Congo tribes on the opposite coast. They have the negro physiog-
nomy and qualities in their full extent, and perhaps are, if any thing,
rather lower in the grade of intellect than their brethren of the west.

The custom of marking prevails among all the tribes of the eastern
coast. The Mozambique people are distinguished by a scar like a
horseshoe in the centre of the forehead, with others somewhat different
on each side. They have other marks of a similar nature on the chin,
and a large brand in the shape of the letter S covers the breast ; their
teeth are filed sharp, each tooth making a separate point.

The Takwani dwell on the great river Zambezi, at whose mouth
Quilimane is situated. This was formerly the line of division between
the northern or barbarous Makuans and the territories of the Motapa.
Although this empire is extinct, the countries south of the river still
preserve some political connexion. All this region was formerly
termed Mocacougua by the Portuguese. The Takwani, by way of
marks, have several groups of dots or scars imprinted in various parts
of the forehead, and also on the breast.

Takwani is situated four days' journey up the river Zambezi.

The natives of Mesena have also the same marks ; they inhabit the
country round the Portuguese fort Sena, on the Zambezi, and were
formerly part of the great kingdom of Motapa.

TAKWAM. CAFFRE PROPER.

RIO JANEIRO.

63

The Caffres who are found as slaves, are generally slender and well
made, with faces partaking slightly of the Moorish cast. Their
colour is a yellowish brown, between that of a mulatto and true
negro. The nose is not depressed, the lips are rather thick, the eyes
large, black, and bright, and the hair woolly. Two divisions of the
Caffres have been described by the various authors who have written
of them and their dialects. These tribes they have divided into the
Caffres proper, to the east of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope,
extending from the Great Fish River as far east as Delagoa Bay, in
latitude 26° S. ; and the Bechuanas, to the north, inhabiting the
interior as far as the tropics, and the country of the Wanketsi.

The country between Delagoa Bay and Sofala, Mr. Hale, from his
investigation, believes to be inhabited by another race of Caffres,
which he designates by the name of Nyambana. He remarks, that
their language and physical traits belong to the same family with the
Caffres proper and the Bechuanas. Their physiognomy is similar to
that described as distinctive of the Caffres, and their language proved
to be a sister dialect.

The natives whom he met with, and from whom this information
was derived, came from the town of Okankomatta, on the coast,
between the Nyambara and Nyango rivers, in about latitude 24° S.,
and from Kamouanawankushion, the river of Nyampara, in the inte-
rior. The distinctive personal mark of this tribe is the most extra-
ordinary of any. It consists of a row of artificial pimples or warts,
about the size of a pea, beginning in the middle of the upper part of
the forehead, and descending to the tip of the nose. Of these they are
very proud. The manner in which these singular elevations were
produced we were not able to learn. The natives appeared to be
averse to speaking of it.

NYAMBANA.

64 RIO JANEIRO.

The Mudjana or Mutchana are one of a number of savage tribes
who inhabit the country inland of Makua and Mocacougua, with
whom they carry on a continual war, for the purpose of procuring
slaves. The best known of these are the Mudjana, the Mananji, the
Maravi, and the Makonde. The Mudjana dwell about three hundred
miles from the coast, and are among the ugliest of the African tribes.
They are short and ill-formed, with the usual negro features in their
most exaggerated forms. They have on the face and body cicatrices
in the shape of a double cross or star, disposed without regularity.
The incisions are made when they are children, and some kind of
wood is rubbed upon them to give a dark colour.

The Mokonde, similarly located, have marks like to those of the
Mudjana. Their teeth are filed down in the centre, the sides of each
tooth being left like those of the Angoyas.

All these blacks are from different parts of the coast, and having
been hostile tribes, retain much of their antipathy to each other. In
general they are kindly treated, and become firmly attached to their
masters ; more, however, from a clannish feeling than from gratitude,
of which virtue they seem to possess little. They are baptized by their
owners as soon as purchased, and in the cities attend mass regularly,
and go to confession, but they are never thought to become entirely
civilized. Those who receive their freedom in reward for faithful
services, or purchase it, conduct themselves well ; their descendants
are much superior in point of intelligence. Many of them own slaves,
and prove much more severe masters than the whites. Male slaves
are put to any trade or craft they may desire. Females are for the
most part employed as mantua-makers, and almost all the finery worn
by the higher circles at public fetes is made by slaves. Indeed, many
masters and mistresses are dependent on the labour of their slaves for
their daily support. There are some blacks who are priests, and
others officers in the army ; indeed, some of the deputies would not
pass for white men elsewhere.

Another remarkable circumstance that strikes the visiter is the
absence of beggars. Many disgusting objects may be seen among the
slave population, but I do not recollect having met with a beggar. I
have understood that they are not suffered to appear in the streets.
This is the law in almost all cities, but here it is rigidly observed.
Charitable institutions are extensively endowed, particularly that of
the Misericordia.

The streets of the city generally cross each other at right angles.
Some few of them have sidewalks, but they are narrow and badly
paved. The gutters are in the middle of the streets, with a stream of
water which emits a smell by no means agreeable. Those most

RIO JANEIRO.

65

frequented are the Rua Direita and Ouvidor. The former, containing
the palace and cathedral, is the broadest in the city. In the latter are
the principal shops, and it is the gayest. The streets are paved with
blocks of stone. The houses are for the most part two stories in height,
and notwithstanding the materials are strong, yet the red tiled roofs
overhang in places fearfully. The interior of the houses will not bear
inspection. Ceilings, walls, and floors, are all exceedingly rough. In
those of the better kind, the walls and ceilings are plastered, and have
ornamented designs painted in fresco. Silk hangings are much in
vogue. I was struck with the want of light and ventilation in the
rooms and houses. The city in some parts has a triste appearance,
but in others there are few places which show so much stir and bustle,
particularly when it is considered that wheeled vehicles are not used
for transportation. What gives Rio its principal charm are its suburbs
and the small quintas around it. Nothing can exceed the beauty of
those around Gloria and Botofogo. These situations are generally
occupied by foreigners established here in business.

The amusements of riding and fishing, with water excursions, are
frequent, and of the most agreeable kind. These and other advantages
of so fine a climate, soon render a residence at Rio quite desirable.
There is much pleasant foreign society, composed of the diplomatic

VOL. i.

66 RIOJANEIRO.

corps, many retired gentlemen, and generally the officers of the several
men-of-war of different nations. I had the pleasure of meeting some
old friends, and the time I could spare was very agreeably spent in
their society.

There appears to be but little intercourse between the Brazilians and
the foreign society. The female sex particularly is still much restricted
in this respect, and although great improvement has taken place, yet
they seldom mix in social intercourse with foreigners ; I am told that
even among themselves they are seldom seen except at ceremonious
parties. They are very much as one would expect them to be,
reserved, retiring, and wanting in education. They dress after the
French fashion, and are usually covered with finery, often displaying
splendid jewels, without taste. There is none of that ease and gaiety
which exists where the fair sex is considered on an equality with the
other, and there is a total absence of that tone which a consciousness
of their value gives to society. Though there is a great advancement
in their education, yet there is still much room for improvement.
Formerly they were not allowed to be educated at all. Their usual
place of resort during the afternoon and evening is the balconies of
their houses ; some of them are occasionally seen at church. It is said
they soon lose their beauty, an early age being considered as their prime.

It gives me pleasure to bear testimony that I witnessed an excep-
tion to the above general rule.

Among the many places to which we had the honour of an
invitation, was the White-Jacket Ball, at Praya Grande, so called in
consequence of a request being made on the card of invitation, that
the gentlemen would come in white jackets, and the ladies appear
without brilliants or other jewels. We gladly accepted the invitation.

The row across the bay was beautiful ; the water undisturbed by
any breeze ; the air cool and balmy ; while thousands of lights along
the shores, and the phosphorescence of the water, gave additional
interest and brilliancy to the whole. The distance, though great,
was not too much for so beautiful an evening.

After being once or twice at fault, we at last found the landing,
and walked a short distance from the beach. On reaching the
ante-room, we were met by the committee of gentlemen or managers,
and kindly greeted without ceremony, making us at once feel at our
ease. We were shortly after ushered into one of the most splendid
ball-rooms I ever saw ; it would contain over one thousand persons.
There were upwards of three hundred present, all dressed in pure
white, without any finery whatever. The room was brilliantly
lighted. We were shown around and introduced to a great many

R I O J A N E I R O. C7

persons of both sexes, who all seemed bent on amusement. It was
truly a sans souci meeting. Seldom have I seen so much good taste
as was displayed in the arrangements, or so good a tone of society.
A good band of music, all Brazilians, played waltzes and marches
alternately. I was told there were many distinguished persons,
senators, representatives of the congress, &c., present.

These balls take place monthly, and are really what they profess
to be, for the pleasure of meeting, innocent amusement, and recrea-
tion. All the expense that attends them is the music and lights ; some
few dulces were the only refreshments.

The language generally spoken was Portuguese, though some few
of the ladies, and many of the gentlemen, spoke French. I was not
much struck with the beauty of the ladies, though many wrere quite
pretty. The great charm thrown over the whole was the unaffected
manners and naivete exhibited by the whole company. I left the ball
at a late hour, exceedingly gratified with my visit, and the politeness
and kindness that had been shown us.

On the 27th of November the Relief arrived, after a passage of one
hundred days from the United States, the longest ever made. On
requisitions being made for her stores, I was greatly and vexatiously
disappointed to receive a report that they required a survey, as all
were considered defective, including even the bread and flour. This
report, after a careful survey by seven officers, proved to be true. I
had been informed before taking command of the squadron that these
provisions had been inspected, and understood them to be in good
order, and that they would last over a year.

Although this did not delay us, for the repairs in progress could not
have been completed before we would be able to replace them, yet
coming as it did with other vexations and delays, it was rather trying
to the patience, and made it necessary to redouble our exertions.

The Relief was despatched at the earliest day possible, the 14th of
December, in order to enable her to reach Orange Harbour, in Terra
del Fuego, the place I had fixed upon as a rendezvous, supposing she
would take at least fifteen days more than the other vessels to reach
the place at the same time. The boats towed her down the harbour
and gave her a fair start.

Two of the officers of the squadron ascended the Sugar Loaf.
Hearing the expression of my surprise that they should have per-
formed such an undertaking without instruments, they immediately
volunteered to make it again. Lieutenants Underwood and Dale
were furnished with the requisite instruments, and the height was
obtained by the sympiesometer, which agreed within a few feet of

68 RIOJANEIRO.

that obtained by triangulation. The results will be found in the
table.

Not having time to complete all they desired, some of the party
remained over night to complete the interesting observations. Lieu-
tenants Emmons and Underwood, on their first trip, obtained many
interesting botanical specimens, among them Bromelias, Tilland-
sias, &c.

On the 16th, the Peacock, with the two tenders, sailed for the
purpose of measuring the distance between Cape Frio and Enxados
observatory. I had first determined to measure the distance by
rocket-signals, as the distance, lying nearly east and west, rendered
this method very applicable ; but the duties I was engaged in, and
the difficulties I might encounter from delays, prevented me from
having recourse to it. I therefore adopted that by sound, wishing
also to satisfy myself with what accuracy a length of this distance
could be measured in this manner.

Captain Hudson was also ordered to examine the St. Thomas
Shoal, to the northward of the Cape.

The manner of accomplishing the former duty was as follows.
The three vessels were anchored in a triangle, with the light-house in
sight, two vessels being in range with it, nearly east and west,
towards the harbour of Rio. Each vessel firing four guns, the times
of the flashes and reports of which were noted in the others. The
angles were simultaneously observed between the objects, and the
astronomical bearings taken. This gave the data to connect the
survey with the light-house.

The vessels now changed their positions alternately, anchoring in
range, and on astronomical bearings proceeding westward, until they
reached the island of Enxados, where they again formed a triangle in
connexion with the observatory.

Our repairs in Rio were extensive, particularly those on the
Peacock. Among other things, the head of the mizzen-mast had to
be cut off eighteen inches, in consequence of a defect in it, which it
appeared had been filled up with rope-yarns and putty, and painted
over, at her outfit. The defects about the vessel were so glaring
that in going to the high latitudes, it would have been impossible to
secure the crew from great suffering and exposure. Even in the
state in which the squadron was now put, I had every apprehension
of the greatest disasters. The Peacock, particularly, was wholly
unseaworthy with respect to such a cruise.

My object in giving these details is not to impute blame to any one,
however satisfied I may be of the great neglect in all the outfits, but

RIO JANEIRO.

69

to let the country know what were the difficulties we had to
encounter.

It is always difficult to calculate upon the delays that may occur
in a foreign port, particularly when it is necessary to employ foreign
workmen. Their hours, habits, and manner of working, are so
different from our own, that great patience is required in those who
employ them. The manner in which the calkers of Rio work, would
draw crowds around them in one of our own cities ; to see many of
them engaged on a single seam on the outside of the vessel, striking
the mallet at a signal given by their leader or overseer with his
whistle, is amusing. They are generally blacks, (probably slaves,)
and the leader a white man. The impression made upon us all was,
that they were an indolent set ; yet they are said to understand their
business well. I cannot, however, bear favourable testimony to their
work ; the calking of my ship was certainly badly done.

The uncertainty of the length of time I should be detained, rendered
it impossible for me to allow long absences from the ship. I was
anxious to have made some measurements of the Organ Mountains,
and that our parties should extend their researches beyond them to the
Campos.

Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge succeeded in making the
trip to the Organ Mountains on a botanical excursion ; but the outfits
and duties connected with the vessels and observations, made it
impossible for me to spare any officers to make the measurement of
their height, or to go myself. These gentlemen set out, having taken
passage in the usual freight-boat, (felucca rigged,) for Estrella,
embarking their horses and mules in another. These boats are not
decked, and are of sufficient tonnage to make them safe and convenient
freight-boats. They generally have four or five slaves with a padron
to manage them.

On leaving Rio they steered up the bay for the island of Goberna-
dor, round which it is necessary to pass, on their way towards the
river Anhumirim, aided by a fair breeze and fine weather. They
found the sail up the bay extremely beautiful, the islands offering a
constant source of interest and novelty. The mouth of the Anhu-
mirim river was reached in about three hours. It was found about
forty yards wide and quite shallow. The banks are an extensive
mangrove swamp. They passed up the river about eight miles, and
reached the port of Estrella at midday, where they took their horses
and pursued the main road to the mines, which crosses to the west-
ward of the highest peak. The distance to the base of the mountain

70 RIOJANEIRO.

from Estrella, is about ten miles, due north. The country is flat, with
occasional undulations. About two miles from Estrella they came to
a guard-house, where they were stopped. Their guide not being at
hand, and not understanding the language themselves, they supposed
their passports were demanded, and believing the reports to be true
that we had all heard so often of the jealousy of the Brazilians in
relation to the admission of foreigners into the interior, they concluded
they were now to experience it. But on the guide coming up, the
matter was soon arranged by the payment of a small tax, which was
the only passport they found necessary. The ascent of the pass is
made by a well-paved zigzag road. They soon reached the house of
Padre Luiz, where they were kindly and hospitably received, and
supper was supplied them from his scanty larder.

Padre Luiz's house was quite spacious : a long one-rstory building,
containing under the same roof the stable and storehouse, as well as
accommodations for travellers and the females of the family. The
latter, agreeably to the custom of the country, were not seen, though
knowrn to exist. Cold and wet, our travellers were ushered into an
apartment where there was neither floor nor fire, and in which there
was a free circulation of air through the cracks and crevices in the
walls. The roof, however, wras tight, which was lucky, as it was
raining hard. A little further insight and experience into the customs
and comforts of the country, made them think that the accommodations
here had been excellent. After a most unreasonable delay, coflee, a
fowl, and rice were set before them, with much parade and ceremony.
During the night they heard what was supposed to be the howling
monkey, but upon inquiry it turned out to be a Brazilian toad, called
in Brazil " the blacksmith," whose croak is said to resemble very
much the sound of hammering on an anvil.

The next morning, understanding that they had been treated with
luxuries and as persons of distinction, they told their host that they
preferred the dish of the country," carne seca" and " farinha," which,
with the addition of a few eggs and a cup of coflee, made an excellent
meal, and was quickly served.

They rode this day about twenty miles beyond the Organ Moun-
tains, the extent to which their jaunt reached. On their way, they
met vast numbers of mules heavily laden. The roads were generally
good, and very little expense would have made them excellent for
carriages.

At Padre Coneas', at the top of the pass, they found a native fig-
tree, of enormous size, with numerous parasitical plants upon it. Jt

RIO JANEIRO.

71

was to them quite a novelty from its low branches, which extended hori-
zontally and covered a space of one hundred and forty feet in diameter.

After leaving the Estrella Pass, the descent was very gradual, the
route lying among the mountains. Crossing the river Paibanha, they
reached a hamlet beautifully situated on the brow of a hill, and com-
manding an extensive view of the country. Here they found the
place well suited to their employment of making collections of
plants, and resolved to stop. Their host kept a small store, and had a
German for salesman, who was greatly delighted at finding that Mr.
Brackenridge could speak his language. He paid them great atten-
tion, and provided amply for their wants.

They were gratified by the rich botanical field that was open to
them. Among the plants, or trees, were Cupheas, with deep purple
flowers, and others with lilac ; Lobelias fifteen feet high, with spikes
of blue flowers three feet long ; and Acacias in full flower. Cyrtopo-
dium Andersonii grew on the rocks in bunches, &c. Several trees
of the Araucaria Brasiliensis, from seventy to eighty feet high, were
found in the valley, which Mr. Brackenridge succeeded in climbing,
and obtained two handsome cones. The rivers were also searched
for shells, but the water was too high to afford success.

Returning at dark they found the German had provided supper,
which was soon served. It consisted of bean soup, Indian bread, fried
jerked beef, and sausages : they had the satisfaction of eating the meal
on their knees, for there was no table, but one spoon, and only one
knife for three persons.

Having loaded themselves with specimens, they concluded to return,
their ideas of life in tropical climates having undergone much change
in this short time, from the erroneous belief they had entertained that
industry was not necessary, that the inhabitants were surrounded by
luxuries, having every delicacy imaginable, and that the only reason
they were not advanced in agriculture and the arts was from the idle-
ness engendered by the enervating influence of the climate. The
fatigue and endurance necessary to overcome the actual state of
things, was least of all expected ; and such a thing as suffering from
cold, even on elevated spots, had not been dreamed of.

The common food of the country was found to be ground manioc
and jerked beef, which proved palatable after their fatigues. Their
guide, however, who was a New Hampshire man, complained much
of his privations.

They had seen the Mato Virgen, or primeval forest, and instead of
finding it, as had been represented, beset with difficulties in penetrating
it, they were surprised to find it more accessible than some of the

72 RIOJANEIRO.

forests in our Atlantic States. According to the accounts of intelligent
residents, it is easily traversed in any direction. The accounts of
difficulties have probably arisen from the second growth on spots that
have once been cleared, where the bamboos are intertwined so as to
render the woods almost impassable, and this has no doubt been taken
for the primeval forest.

The nature of the Brazilian forest will account for so little being
known of its botany. The trees are in fact inaccessible, the trunks
being from seventy to one hundred feet high, before the branches
appear, so that the latter can only be got at by felling. The view of
the forest is truly remarkable. Trees of immense growth intermingled
with others of less size, presenting to the eye the most singular and
fantastic forms imaginable. The roots of climbing plants, dangling
between their straight trunks, resembled the tackling of a ship.

A little incident that occurred to these gentlemen will show the
difficulties to be encountered in obtaining specimens. They had
observed for a few days a beautiful yellow flowering tree, that was very
conspicuous in the forest. Believing that it could be easily come at,
they made the attempt to reach it, but without success, finding it,
instead of being low, a high and inaccessible tree. They then directed
their steps to others, but were disappointed again. Determined not
to be foiled in their pursuit, they again went off in search of others in
sight ; these, to their surprise, were on the opposite side of a river.
Nothing daunted, Mr. Brackenridge crossed it, though deep, and
endeavoured to scale the tree. What had appeared near the ground,
now proved a tree of some sixty feet in height, with a smooth and
slippery bark; and he returned to his companion empty-handed. Dr.
Pickering next made the attempt. After crossing the stream with
difficulty, he reached the desired object, and endeavoured to climb, but
after reaching some forty feet, was obliged to acknowledge himself
vanquished. They continued their return, and when near Padre Luiz's
house, they found a small tree of the same kind they had been searching
for, which proved to be a species of Caesalpinia.

At Padre Luiz's they again passed the night, and the next day
endeavours were made to reach one of the pointed peaks of the Organ
Mountains. In this Dr. Pickering succeeded, though it did not prove
the highest. On their way they found many interesting plants ; among
them the Epiphytic Orchidese, slender Cecropias, rising to the height
of one hundred feet without a limb, arborescent fern trees forty feet in
height, and numerous parasitical plants hanging from the various trees
in great profusion; Bromelias, Bignonias, &c. On reaching the top, he
found trees stunted and gnarled of about thirty feet in height.

RIOJANEIRO. 73

A good idea will be given of the richness of the Brazilian Flora by
the fact, that when mounted in the tree-top, he collected specimens of
three flowering trees not before seen, and three species of mistletoes.

The same afternoon they reached Estrella, but found their guide had
not procured any passage for them. They, however, succeeded after
some difficulty in procuring one, set out before sunset, and reached Rio
the next morning by three o'clock, having been greatly tormented by
the musquitoes, and a minute fly, which was even more troublesome.

Finding that the repairs had not proceeded so rapidly as I anticipated,
I readily gave permission for a second jaunt, which they urdertook in
the direction of Piedade. Piedade is on the eastern side of the bay,
nearly opposite to Estrella. On landing, they proceeded to Trexal, at
the foot of the mountain, sixteen miles from Piedade, where travellers
may get good lodgings, &c., for Brazil. The next day they took the
route by the pass to Mr. March's. The summit of this pass commands
a magnificent and extensive prospect, and is called Buena Vista. They
reached the Fazenda of Mr. March about midday. It is situated in a
beautiful valley, immediately behind the main ridge, and between two
mountains. The houses were overflowing with visitors, who had
assembled to pass the holidays. This estate is large, embracing some
thirty miles square, but only a very small proportion of it is cultivated.
A large number of negroes were about the establishment, and every
thing is kept in perfect order. It is a place of fashionable resort for
the inhabitants of Rio, especially the English. The houses were
comfortable after the Brazilian style. The garden and grounds are
laid out on the English plan, and well stocked with very fine fruits,
peaches, apples, pears, plums, gooseberries, all of which come to
perfection. Of vegetables, they have potatoes, cabbage, turnips,
carrots, beets, onions, parsnips, celery, and lettuce. Bananas will not
ripen, the temperature being frequently as low as 40°. Mr. March
said his houses were situated three thousand one hundred and fifty feet
above the level of the sea, and the peaks in the vicinity are about one
thousand feet higher. To the westward he pointed out a peak said to
be eight thousand feet in altitude, and which is the highest of the
range. So far as is known, no one has gained the summit, although
Mr. Gardner, an English botanist, by following the tracks of the tapir,
had reached within a few hundred yards of it, after two days' hard
labour, and found that the vegetation resembled that of temperate
climates. Time did not admit of our gentlemen making the attempt.
All that could be done was to ascend the hill pointed out by Mr.
March, in the vicinity of his house, as never having been ascended, and
which is one thousand two hundred feet above it. This was accom-
VOL. i 10

74 RIOJANEIRO.

plished, although with difficulty. On this trip they met with fallen
timber, but the Brazilian woods, in general, were remarked as being
much more free from it than our own. No change in the vegetation
was observed. The route through this pass is much more difficult for
travellers than that of Estrella, but to the admirer of nature more
interesting. From the base to the summit of the mountains the virgin
forest extends. The main chain here is much broken ; the peaks
appear more in the form of columns or pipes, and are quite inaccessible,
casting a dark shade upon the deep and wooded valleys beneath. After
being hospitably entertained they came back, crossing over to the
island of Pagueta, where they had an opportunity of examining the
large heaps of the shells fished up out of the bay, for the purpose of
burning for lime, and were not a little surprised at the numbers of
different genera which composed them.

The results of these two expeditions were the addition of a great
number of very interesting plants to our collection. These will be
treated of in the Botanical Report.

A few days before our departure, we made a trip to the top of the
Corcovado. The naturalists, who were of our party, observed that
almost a total change had taken place in the plants since their last
visit, about a fortnight before. I took with me the necessary instru-
ments to measure its height, and we all amused ourselves with
collecting plants, insects, lizards, &c. We took the road that turns
off near Gloria, and even before we began to emerge from the city,
several novel kinds of ferns were observed growing on the house-tops
and walls. We soon entered coffee plantations, groves of bananas,
tamarinds, mangroves, and orange trees. A vast variety of plants
were pointed out to me by Mr. Brackenridge, among them the
beautiful Vochysia, with its splendid yellow blossoms, showing con-
spicuous among the rest. After a fatiguing walk we reached the top.
The last quarter of a mile, or the last rise to its summit, causes one to
become somewhat breathless in a hot day; but when the top is gained,
it is worth all the labour of climbing, and amply repays for the
exertion.

The whole of the magnificent harbour, the city and environs, lay
beneath our feet. A bird's-eye view is had of every thing, grouped
in the most pleasing variety ; and nothing strikes one so forcibly as
the white sandy beaches of Botofogo and Praya Grande, with the
beautiful blue of the sea washing on them. The many lakes, the
castellated peaks, and the variously shaped, craggy, and broken hills,
are all softened by the light and airy green vegetation, creeping up
their sides so as to melt them almost into one. The harbour was

RIO JANEIRO.

75

covered with its busy and now tiny fleets, and many of its large islands
looked as but specks on its flat surface. The day was beautifully
clear, and the refreshing sea-breeze just what we could desire. The
tower and observatory have been destroyed. To form an idea of the
beauty of Rio and its environs, it is necessary to mount to the top of
the Corcovado, or some high peak in its neighbourhood.

After finishing our observations, and fully satisfying ourselves with
the beautiful scene, we descended to the Belle Rue, where we enjoyed
a rest and lunch. We returned to the city by the way of the Aqueduct
late in the afternoon, all greatly delighted with our day's jaunt, which,
beside the amusement, had proved quite a profitable one in the way of
collections.

SLAVES SLEEPING.

CHAPTER IV.

CONTENTS.

CHARACTER OF THE BRAZILIANS— CONSTITUTION OF THE EMPIRE— RULING PARTY-
ELECTIVE REGENCY— ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE— ELECTIVE FRANCHISE— ARMY
— NAVY — SCHOOLS — SLAVERY — FEELING TOWARDS FOREIGNERS — POPULATION-
NATIONAL DEBT, REVENUE, AND EXPENDITURES —COMMERCE — EVENTS IN THE
SaUADRON— DEPARTURE FROM RIO.

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CHAPTER IV.

POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL.

1838.

DURING my stay at Rio, I had an opportunity of seeing several
intelligent gentlemen, who had long been residents of the country; I
am indebted to them for much information relative to the political
state of this empire. Brazil, though quiet at the time of our visit, will
long be destined to outbreaks and alarms, either from local oppression
or some slight political movements. The people for the most part
take very little interest in politics, or in the general welfare of the
state. As yet, their habits make them averse to mental exertions, and
they generally prefer their own ease, which precludes them from
engaging in political excitement. They are not yet sufficiently
advanced in civilization and education, so far as regards the mass of
the population, to rise from the mental degradation which the policy
of the mother country entailed upon them.

The Brazilians, from the character I have received of them, are
very ceremonious and punctilious, susceptible of flattery, suspicious
yet courteous, selfish, cunning ; assuming frankness and generosity,
timid, unsteady in purpose, and without any large and comprehensive
views. What is claimed from them as a right in a bold and confident
manner, is readily yielded, while often through their ignorance they
become presumptuous.

The people are farther advanced in morals and intelligence than
their government, but as yet they are not sufficiently enlightened to
know their power. They are slow to act, and appear very patient
under oppression. Long endurance of despotism has made them so.

The new constitution was adopted in 1825. This secured the
legislative power from further interruption, and achieved a complete
victory over the bayonets and tyranny of Don Pedro, by forcing him,
through the threats of the people and his fears, to grant a more liberal

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80 POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL.

constitution. Political freedom seems to have made rapid advance-
ment through the freedom of the press, and the voice of liberty may be
said to have been heard. At first it was listened to with apprehensions,
and its meaning but imperfectly understood. Although many years
have since passed, the people have scarcely more than begun to feel
that they possess individual rights, and for the most part yield a blind
obedience to the laws. This is true as respects the population of the
seaports; but in the country, the population being sparse, communi-
cation of every kind is difficult, and social intercourse embarrassed by
early habits and customs. The advantages of a free and frequent
interchange of sentiments are in consequence almost entirely unknown.
A long time will probably elapse before there will be any political
struggle among them. They are prospering in their private concerns,
and contented without any ambition to advance themselves in political
knowledge, or to meddle with the concerns of the government, except
in their local operation. The state of society in the interior is very
much of this character, and consequently the affairs of the country
have suffered little derangement from the difficulties which have
occurred, and mal-administration under the different sovereigns who
have held rule for the last thirty years. Through part of this time a
rapid decline was experienced in the national prosperity, which led to
the abdication of the late Emperor Pedro I.

The whole political machine by which the government is adminis-
tered is uncouth and awkward, being composed of a mixture of feudal
notions with the refinements of modern times. It is moved and
sustained more by the habit of obeying the laws, than by skill and
judgment in administering them. There is an entire absence of all
force, moral as well as physical, to sustain the government; yet to
this in a great measure is it to be ascribed, that the country has not
become a prey to anarchy and confusion. Combined with the above
causes, is the jealousy that exists among the parties who have been
called to office, and which prevents self-aggrandizement. Pretensions
have been at times asserted, dangerous to public tranquillity and
threatening the subversion of the established order of things. These
have been promoted by the disaffected and discontented, principally
composed of or countenanced by those persons who, after the depar-
ture of Don Pedro I., remained in the country, and who, having lost
their importance with their offices, returned to private life, with their
pride wounded, their fortunes and reputation impaired and injured,
and themselves dissatisfied with their condition. These persons have
sought every occasion to disturb the even current of events, and to
array themselves against the power of the state, wielded as they deem

POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL. 81

it to be, by plebeian usurpation of the royal prerogative ; but hitherto
they have failed.

Causes of dissatisfaction are not wanting to produce discontent.
They are indeed numerous, and among them are a total want of
justice in the administration of the laws ; the neglect, of all petitions
for political reform and the remedy of abuses ; the onerous and
injurious regulations imposed by the government ; and the haughty
conduct and absolute power of those who hold office. Notwith-
standing all these discouragements, well-informed residents perceive
an improvement within the last few years, on the part of the govern-
ment and of the people also. The establishment of a public press has
had its effect in producing this change, by enlightening the public
mind, and will gradually acquire the same control here that it exercises
elsewhere; and education is better attended to than it used to be,
although as yet it is far in the background.

According to the best information, the present government was
established by, and is under the guidance of, a few leading men, a
small party in Rio, who manage all the political concerns of the
empire. They seem to act without any desire of personal aggrandize-
ment, and apparently without ambition to be distinguished beyond the
circle of their party. From what has already been said of the
interior and the character of its inhabitants, it will be seen that there
is no great difficulty in managing the provinces by means of a few
influential men, and thus the whole power seems concentrated within
the city of Rio, where it is easy to direct things to the issue that they
may desire.

It wras this party which overthrew or effected the reform in the con-
stitution under Don Pedro I. in 1823, and established the new Congress,
consisting of a senatorial body of fifty, who were chosen for life, and
of one hundred deputies, for three years. The reformed constitution
provided that the succession should devolve on the eldest son of
Pedro L, during whose minority there should be three regents chosen
for life.

Things went on badly after the beginning of the new order of
government, principally in consequence of the disastrous Banda
Oriental war, which caused a great sacrifice of money and resources,
deranged the currency, and involved the nation in debt. In 1831, Don
Pedro abdicated the throne, and went to Europe ; the regency came
into power, and this band of leading men formed themselves into an
opposition to the government. They succeeded in making some
important changes, setting aside the three regents for life, substituting
one elected for four years, and introducing a federal system, which

VOL. i. 11

82 POLITICALSTATEOFBRAZ1L.

gives the provinces the right of local legislatures to regulate their pro-
vincial concerns, independently of the general government.

The manner in which the reforms in the constitution were effected,
will give some insight into the mode of conducting business, and
exhibits the power of this party. The plans, after being long under
discussion in the Chamber of Deputies, were referred to a committee
of that body, who reported upon them, and they were finally passed,
under a decision by the Chambers that the Senate and Regency had
no right to vote, control, or even deliberate upon the question. They
thus assumed to themselves the whole power of legislative action on
so momentous a subject, totally disregarding the constitutional claims
of the other co-ordinate and co-equal branches of the government,
whose concurrence was necessary to legalize all their acts under the
constitution, and whose authority was then in vigour, and could not be
suspended, although it was susceptible of modification in the proper
form. This subject was recommended to the attention of the people
in 1833, with a view to party action on it; and new elections were
ordered, for the purpose of deliberating upon a new constitution. But
from some circumstances, the regents were not willing to accede to
the measure, after it had passed the forms of legislation in the
Chamber of Deputies ; they steadfastly adhered to the determination
of withholding their sanction to the law, opposing all terms of com-
promise. For a long time the tranquillity, if not the destiny of the
country, was in jeopardy. The regents were finally, as was supposed,
and generally believed, brought over by pecuniary considerations.
The Senate also ineffectually attempted to interpose a protest against
the measure (the election of a regent to hold office for four years), not
only to sustain their dignity but maintain their rights; neither was
it satisfactory to the people generally, nor to the national guard, who
it was well known would have supported the regents in their oppo-
sition. All impediments, however, to the passage of this favourite and
important measure, were overcome by the power and management
of this band of leading men, who contrived to unite with them the
most opposite characters, and to neutralize personal animosity, as well
as party strife, absorbing all other subjects, and enlisting them in
support of this measure. They thus clearly manifested their influence,
in being able to set aside constitutional restraints, overcoming the
executive power, and controlling the senatorial aristocracy.

The new constitution seems to operate satisfactorily under these
leaders. There are, however, some features in it which give its
warmest friends many fears respecting the stability of the government.
One of these is the difficulty of making the provincial legislatures

POLITIC AL STATE OF BRAZIL. 83

work harmoniously with the general government. Great stress is,
however, laid upon the character of the Brazilians, who are disin-
clined to change, and upon their habits of obedience to the laws and
constituted authority. This gives a well-grounded hope for the
peaceful and onward march of the public prosperity under the new
constitution.

Every exertion is making to give the young Emperor a good
education, and his talents are well spoken of.

The regulation of the currency has continued to claim the attention
of the government, as involving the most important questions, and
those likely to bring about difficulties. Some apprehensions are
entertained that the local governments may apply a remedy them-
selves. In the Chamber of Deputies, all money-bills originate, but the
Senate may amend them. All laws must be sanctioned by the
Emperor after having passed both branches of the legislature. In
case of disagreement between the two houses, the members unite in
the Senate chamber, and the question is decided by a majority of
votes. There are no doubt many sources of discord, but they are not
fully known by any, except the principal actors, and few are aware
how the affairs of the kingdom are going on. At this time (1838 and
'39) all those acquainted with the people and government considered
the whole kingdom in a precarious state : the administration at Rio
Janeiro was believed to be unpopular, while some of the provinces
evinced a strong disposition to join with that of Rio Grande in
revolution. But this cannot succeed. Rio, with its situation and
commercial advantages, must and always will have the ascendency in
one way or other, will control its resources, and must be the seat of
government of this empire.

The administration of justice is confided to two high tribunals,
which are open to the public, and where causes are decided on appeal
by a majority of the judges.

These tribunals are, first, the Relacao, of which there are two
branches, one at Rio and the other at Bahia, each composed of eight
judges. Second, the Supreme Tribunal of Justice, of twelve judges.
The inferior courts are those for the trial of civil and criminal cases,
an Orphans' Court, and a Court and Judge of Findings and Losings,
the last of which is not yet abolished, however obsolete it may have
become. Great corruption exists in them all, and no class of people
are so unpopular as the judges. It is generally believed, and the
belief is acted upon, that to obtain justice, all classes, including priests
and laymen, lawyer and client, legislators and people, regents and
ministers, must submit to great imposition ; that it is next to impossible

84 POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL.

to recover a debt by law except through bribery. If a debtor has
money or patronage, and refuses to pay, it is difficult to obtain the
payment even of an acknowledged note of hand through the process
of the law, and it generally takes years to accomplish.

It is, however, greatly to the praise of the Brazilians, that it is not
often necessary to have recourse to law for this purpose. The
greatest injustice occurs in the Orphans' Court; but the Court of
Findings and Losings is one of the most singular in this respect. It
takes charge of all things lost and found, making it the duty of a
person finding any thing to deposit it with the judge. The loser, to
prove property, must have three witnesses to swear that they saw him
lose it, and three others, that they saw the finder pick it up, otherwise
it remains in deposit. To show the working of this system, a gentle-
man of Rio found a bank-note of four hundred milrees (about $250).
The owner went to him and claimed improving satisfactorily to the
finder that the identical bank-note was his, upon which the finder gave
it up. The Judge of Findings and Losings heard of the circumstance,
sent for him, and asked a statement of the case, which the finder
unsuspectingly related. The judge praised his honourable conduct,
and was punctiliously polite. The next day, however, he issued an
order for the deposit of the money found ; and because it was disre-
garded, the finder, a respectable foreign merchant, was arrested in the
street and sent to prison, to be confined with common criminals. The
jailer, however, having private apartments for those who could pay
for them, he became his guest, and was preserved from the disgust of
being a close prisoner, and the companion of degraded and depraved
wretches. Before he could regain his liberty, he had to pay the
amount found, the decision being the forfeiture of a like sum, together
with the jailer's fees, &c.

The justices of the peace for each district are elected by the people,
four at a time, to serve as many years by turns, substituting one for
the other, when sickness or other circumstances prevent either from
serving. They have final judgments in amounts not exceeding sixteen
milrees. In cases of civil process, they act as mediators to effect a
compromise and reconcile difficulties. Their political attributes are to
preserve the peace in case of riot or disorder among the people, and
they have a right to call on the national guard or military police to
aid them, who must act under their direction. There is no civil
police, and no imprisonment for debt. Trial by jury was at first
limited to political offences and violations of the liberty of the press,
but it is now extended to criminal cases, and in some instances to
civil suits. Sixty persons compose the jury, and forty are necessary

POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL. 85

to try causes. The juiz de decrito (judge of law) sits with them in
court, acts as president, and applies the law to the cases the jury may
decide. Jurymen serve for one year, and are chosen in the following
manner. In each district the vigairo (vicar), a justice of the peace
and a member of the municipality, select from a list of male pa-
rishioners, those qualified in their judgment for jurymen, and submit
the names to the municipality, who, assisted by the vigairo and justice
of the peace, purge the list of such as may be considered improper
persons. It is then officially communicated by the municipality to
the justice of the peace, and posted up for public inspection in the office,
and on the doors of the parish churches throughout the district.

To entitle any one to vote at an election, he must have an income
of two hundred milrees per annum from property, trade, labour or
employment of any kind. The vigairo sits with the judges at elections
to decide on the qualifications of voters. Friars or members of
religious fraternities are not entitled to a vote. Free blacks have all
the civil rights, and vote at elections the same as white men.

The attorney-general of the nation is the accuser in all criminal
cases. Criminals have the right of counsel.

It may be said that there is no standing army in Brazil, for the few
troops do not merit that name. A military staff on a large scale is
supported, with a large corps of military police, and a national guard.
The national guard is organized by law, and in it all males from
eighteen to forty-five years of age are enrolled. They are equipped
at their own cost, the nation furnishing arms and ammunition only.
Detachments of this guard are on duty daily at the palace and public
offices.

The navy is not effective ; they want seamen, and are not likely to
have any. A naval academy is established for the education of cadets
or midshipmen. Here they enter at twelve years of age, receiving
some of the first rudiments of education, and remain four years.
After passing an examination, they are sent to sea, serve there four
years, and if found qualified are then promoted to second lieutenants.

The military academy they enter later, remain seven years, passing
through various courses of study, and if found competent, they are
made lieutenants. From what I understood, the system of education
is very imperfect.

Schools for educating the people have been established, and the
female sex are now allowed to be educated.

Agriculture is extending ; and the slave trade, since the treaty with
England, has been prohibited ; but large numbers of slaves are still
easily smuggled, by the connivance of the authorities, and although

86 POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL.

many are captured by British cruisers, yet it is said that more than
one half of the vessels escape, and smuggle the slaves into the small
rivers and harbours, bribing the collectors, who permit them to be
landed. After landing, the slaves are driven into the woods, where
they are secreted until they are sold to the planters in the interior.

The slaves do not increase, as procreation is prevented as much
as possible. The two sexes are generally locked up at night in
separate apartments. The number of slaves imported into Rio and
Bahia previous to the prohibition of the slave trade in 1830, was
about forty thousand a year for the former, and ten thousand for the
latter, as follows :

RIO. BAHIA.

1828 . . 41,913 . . . 8,860

1829 . . 40,015 . . . 12,808

1830 half year 29,777 • . . 8,588

About one-third of these were lost by death, leaving two-thirds as
an accession to the labour of the country.

The number annually imported since 1830, contrary to law, is
estimated at seven to ten thousand.

In speaking of the apprehension of a rise of the blacks in the pro-
vinces, the well-informed seemed to entertain no kind of fear of such an
event. I was told that Bahia was the only point at which insurrections
were ever likely to occur, and this was from the prevalence of the
Mina slaves, who are very intelligent, and capable of forming organized
bodies, which they occasionally have done. The slaves of the other
provinces are of a mixed character, incapable of any organization, and
from having been taken from different tribes on the coast, they are
more or less hostile to each other, and would be opposed to any such
union.

The Brazilians have great respect for foreigners who are not
Portuguese. The latter are detested. They have a strong bias in
favour of the United States and the American government generally.
They think the time is approaching which will unite the people of this
continent in a distinct national policy, in centra-distinction to that of
Europe, and in rivalry to it. They are vain of their own country and
its institutions, and firmly believe that a high destiny awaits Brazil.
The government, in its political relations with other countries, is
seemingly confiding and liberal.

The population of the empire, taking the last returns of the members
of the Chamber of Deputies as a guide, is estimated at five millions.
No census has yet been taken, but it is thought to exceed this number.
The scrutiny formerly exercised by the government into their domestic

POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL. 87

afiairs, it is said, caused them to conceal the actual number of persons
in their families. Of the above number, about two millions are slaves.
No estimate has been made of the proportion which free blacks,
mulattoes, or Indians bear to the whites or to each other. The relative
number of slaves varies much in the different provinces ; it is largest in
Rio de Janeiro and the Minas Geraes. The population of Rio in 1810
was estimated at forty thousand, in 1838 it was two hundred and fifty
thousand. In Appendix XXI. will be found a statement of the popula-
tion that may be considered semi-official.

The national debt of Brazil amounts to one hundred million milrees,
or sixty million dollars. The revenue was about sixteen millions of
dollars for 1838. It is derived principally from exports and imports.
A statement of the quantities of produce exported in the above year,
will be found in Appendix XXII. I was not able to obtain those of the
imports. The expenditures of the government are fixed by law at
about the same sum. All appropriations are specific.

The imports amounted to over twenty millions of dollars. The
amount of exports is variously stated. Coffee is the great staple, and
more than one hundred and twenty millions of pounds were exported
in 1838. It is derived from the central provinces, and the exports of
it have more than doubled within the last ten years. The exports of
the southern provinces are mostly confined to hides and tallow ; those of
the northern, to sugar, cotton, and tobacco.

The trade with the United States has greatly increased. Within the
last few years, from one hundred and sixty to one hundred and seventy
American vessels take and bring cargoes to and from the United
States, and some foreign vessels are engaged in the same trade. The
consumption of American flour in Rio and the neighbouring country,
has been during the same year, about one hundred and twenty thousand
barrels.

The state of this country and the southern republics, renders it
highly necessary that a suitable naval force should be employed on
this coast for the protection of our increasing trade.

The currency of the country is in paper and copper. Gold and
silver coins are articles of traffic, and fluctuate in value : few or none
of these are in circulation. The bank issues notes of milrees, which
also fluctuate. The usual value of a milree is from sixty to seventy
cents. One thousand five hundred ries are equal to a dollar.

Printed books of all kinds are allowed to be brought into the country.
Those of foreign origin are not under censorship.

The great drawback to the facility of business is the number of
holidays on which the custom-house is closed, and all business

88 POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL.

suspended. These amount to about one hundred days in the year.
These holidays are a great alleviation to the labour of the slave.

Foreign merchants reside in the country, in the neighbourhood of
the city.

During our stay in Rio, George Smith, a seaman, while employed
on board of one of the lighters in charge of Midshipman May, fell
overboard and was accidentally struck with an oar ; Midshipman May,
in a praiseworthy manner, jumped overboard to his relief, but did not
succeed in saving him, for he sank immediately and was drowned.

The delays in Rio had no effect upon the general health of the
squadron, although I was fearful such might be the case, not only
from the heat of ihe climate, but the copious draughts of aguardiente
with which the foreigners supply the sailors.

I found it necessary here to increase the crews of the ships, and
applied to Commodore Nicolson, commander on the Brazil station, for
that purpose. Thirty men were supplied the squadron. They were
the most indifferent and worthless set, with two or three exceptions,
we ever had on board. They were almost the only persons attached
to the vessels on whom it became necessary to inflict punishment.

The markets are abundantly supplied with fish, beef, and poultry.
Vegetables are to be had in abundance, and are all sold in the streets.

On the 26th, the Peacock and tenders returned, and brought their
work up to the observatory at Enxados Island. Captain Hudson had
not been able to examine the St. Thomas Shoal. Having lost five
days in consequence of bad weather, it became impossible to accom-
plish it within the given time.* During his progress, he had lost an
anchor, which, when hove up, was found to have been broken oflf at
the shank. Application was immediately made to the government
for one, which request was very obligingly and promptly replied to, by
desiring us to select one of a suitable size from those in the dock-yard.

By the last of December we had completed all our scientific duties.
These consisted of a series of pendulum observations ; those for
longitude by moon culminating stars ; circummeridian observations
for latitude ; magnetic dip, intensity, diurnal variation ; and others,
including tides, and solar and terrestrial radiation. We now made
every preparation for sea.

* The measurement of the whole distance by sound, when reduced, gave 1° 08' 52" 8'"
for the difference of meridians. Each distance between the vessels was the mean of about
thirty observations. The longitude of Cape Frio Light, deduced from that of Enxados,
which had been ascertained by moon culminating stars to be in 43° 09' 06" 67'" west of
Greenwich, is, therefore, 42° 00' 13" 87'" W. For the particulars and a diagram of this
work, see Appendix XXIII.

POLITICAL STATE OF BRAZIL.

89

On the 5th of January the Porpoise was ordered to drop down near
a slaver, on board of which it was reported some of our men had been
smuggled, to form a part of her crew. She was boarded, and though
the captain denied that they were on board, after a search two were
found. One of them was a black, who had himself been a slave, yet
he had been induced to enter for the purpose of carrying on this
nefarious traffic. This was the brig Fox, and though undoubtedly
fitted for a slaver, she sailed under English colours. It was given out
that she was bound for New Zealand.

On the 6th of January, every thing being ready, we weighed
anchor, and dropped down the harbour. On passing the Indepen-
dence, we were saluted with six cheers, which were returned with
enthusiasm.

There is no difficulty in beating out of the harbour of Rio, with a
ship of any class, although vessels sail generally in the morning,
with the land-breeze. The breeze failing, we anchored without the
harbour, and I took this opportunity of sending back the Flying-Fish,
in order to recover some of our men who had absented themselves.
Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold took charge of her, and effected the
object without difficulty. During this time I employed the officers in
measuring the height of the Sugar Loaf again for exercise.

In the evening we weighed anchor, and stood to the southward on
our course.

VOL. I.

12

CHAPTER Y.

CONTENTS.

PASSAGE TO RIO NEGRO — ARRIVAL THERE-GUACHOS— EXCURSION OF THE NATU-
RALISTS—SALT AND SALT LAKES— GOVERNMENT AND POPULATION— PRODUCTIONS-
TARIFF— INDIANS— WANT OF ENTERPRISE— DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY— RIVER
AND TIDES — CLIMATE — VEGETATION — TRADE — HARBOUR — SaUADRON DRIVEN TO
SEA— DANGERS IN SURVEYING — CONVICT SETTLEMENT — COMMUNICATION WITH
BUENOS A YRES — DEPARTURE FROM RIO NEGRO — STATEN LAND— STRAITS OF LE
MAIRE— APPEARANCE OF TERRA DEL FUEGO— ITS HARBOUR— PARHELION— MIRAGE-
MEETING WITH THE RELIEF— HER DEPARTURE FROM RIO-CURRENT—RIO PLATA-
CAPE RAZA— CAPE ST. JOSEPH— CAPE THREE POINTS— DREDGING— BELLACO ROCKS-
CAPE ST. DIEGO — GOOD SUCCESS BAY — CAPTAIN KING'S SAILING DIRECTIONS —
NATIVES — INTERCOURSE WITH THEM — BOTANY — GEOGRAPHICAL POSIT
ISLAND— ITS POSITION— ARRIVAL AT ORANGE HARBOUR— EMPLOYMENTS.

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CHAPTER V.

RIO NEGRO.

1839.

THE winds proved light and variable during our passage to Rio
Negro, and we occasionally experienced a southwesterly current, of
little strength. On the 18th January, when seventy-eight miles
distant from the mouth of the Rio la Plata, we passed through the
discoloured water of that river. Its temperature was 4° less than that
of the surrounding sea. After getting to the southward of the river,
the direction of the current changed, and it was found to be setting to
the northward.

Towards evening, on the 19th, we met many discoloured patches
in the water, and found they proceeded from a species of Salpse, which
we had not before seen. When the night closed in, the sea became
very luminous, the vessels in passing through the water leaving long
bright trains behind them. Vivid lightning in the west showed a dark
bank of clouds, betokening a storm. About 10 o'clock p. M., a haze
suddenly enveloped us ; the temperature of both air and water fell
from 67° to 57°, ten degrees, giving a cold clammy feeling to the air.
The water became quite smooth, and the breeze died away ; all on
deck seemed awakened to a sense of danger. We immediately
shortened sail and sounded, but found no bottom with one hundred
and fifty fathoms of line. The vessels of the squadron came up in close
order, sailing as it were in a sea of silver, from the light of which
their forms became visible. The effect was beautiful, and increased
the mysterious and alarming sensation. Shortly after, we had a
change of wind to the southwest, followed by a dense fog, which
lasted for a day ; but the temperature of both air and water remained
six to eight degrees colder, until the 23d, when it again rose to the
height it had been before.

(93)

96 RIONEGRO.

All this accounted for the reconnoitring that we had observed, and
our not being able to obtain a pilot. What still more alarmed them
was the different vessels firing whilst surveying, and our making the
attempt to force the passage in the small vessels.

The captain of the coast guard now afforded all facilities, and a
pilot for the schooner was sent on board to take her up the river, and
horses and guides were furnished for a party to visit the town.

The next morning a detachment of lancers arrived from the
governor, with orders not to allow our vessels to proceed up, and that the
pilot should come on shore, which effectually put a stop to our plans ;
when Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold determined to go by land.

It caused much alarm to the pilot, who entreated the officers to
intercede with the governor in his behalf, and for that of the captain
of the coast guard, stating that their lives would be forfeited for having
attempted to pilot a vessel without the governor's orders. After some
delay, a party proceeded to Carmen, under the escort of Guachos, to
wait on the governor or commandant. On their way they met with
a cordial welcome from all they passed, as the minds of all were now
entirely relieved from fear, and great delight was expressed at seeing
the North Americans.

These Guachos are generally well made, tall and muscular, with
swarthy complexions, black eyes, and long hair, very large mustachios
and remarkably small feet. Their costume is a red striped shirt, and
white drawers, large, loose, and fringed at the bottom of the leg, called
cahoncillas. Their trousers (chilipa) consist of two yards of scarlet
cloth, which is sometimes ornamented at the corners; to form this
into any thing like a garment appeared strange enough ; yet, when it
is on the wearer, it has the appearance of a pair of Turkish trousers.
The mode in which it is put on is to confine the ends round the waist
by a girdle (triando), the middle of the cloth passing down between
the legs, while the ends fall over the girdle. On the head was worn a
red conical cap surmounted by a tassel.

Their riding boots or leggings are made of the hide from the leg of
a horse. This is stripped oflf and put on the leg while yet green,
where it is suffered to dry, and remain until worn out. They fit very
closely to the foot, like a stocking. The two largest toes of each foot
were uncovered, for the convenience of putting them into the stirrup,
which is only large enough to admit them. A long knife in the girdle
completes the dress.

During the time of our stay, the naturalists ranged the country in
the vicinity, and the officers wrere engaged in making a survey of the
roadstead and bar.

RIO NEGRO.

97

The road to El Carmen is on the north bank of the river, over a
range of downs, the south side being low. The river continues, about
one-third of a mile wide, flowing in a broad, still current. There are
no trees to be seen in the landscape.

On their way, the party stopped at several estancias. These are
houses built of adobes or unburnt brick, divided into two or three
apartments, without floor, ceiling, or furniture, and with a few out-

GOVKRNOR S ESTANCIA.

houses for the horses and slaves, and a coural for the cattle, formed
of high poles, placed so near as to prevent the cattle from breaking
through ; the poles are from four to six inches in diameter, and from
twenty to thirty feet high. They were met on the way by the minister
of finance or collector, whose interrogations were satisfactorily an-
swered ; they were then allowed again to proceed.

The next person whom they encountered was an American, Dr.
Ducatel, who was especially despatched by the governor; he an-
nounced himself as a physician and a citizen of the United States.
His appearance was unlike both. He was dressed in the chilipa and
calzoncillas, — in the full costume, and had the appearance, of the
Guachos. His skill was much vaunted by his attendants. We
afterwards understood that the doctor, having picked up a smattering
of physic, and wishing to acquire a fortune, had gone to Buenos Ayres
to seek one. There he accidentally heard of the want of Rio Negro in
that respect; he embarked for that place with an ample store of drugs,
and established himself as apothecary, surgeon, and physician. He is
reported as having done well for some time, notwithstanding the
healthiness of the climate and place, until the troubles at Buenos Ayres
with the French, when the communication with the city being cut off,
had prevented him from obtaining his usual supplies, and the troops
from receiving their pay. With the former he had lost the means of

VOL. i. 13

98 R I O N E G R O.

curing his patients, and with the latter the remuneration that was due
him. He had therefore, to use his own term, " retired from business,"
and lived several miles from the town, husbanding his estate, which
consisted of an estancia, as above described, and his demands upon
the government and soldiers.

Under his escort they arrived at the pueblo, consisting of a few
rows of mud and brick huts, scattered without any regularity over a
sandy declivity by the side of the river.

On the opposite slope was the fort, an enclosure of some extent, in
which were seen the house of the governor and the barracks. A
presentation to the Governor-General, Juan Jose Hernandez, now took
place. He, on being informed of our character, and the object of our
visit, received our officers in a most courteous and friendly manner.
He is a native of Buenos Ayres, of dignified manners, polite and
courteous, and invested with great authority. The officers were invited
to dine with him, and received his hospitality.

The doctor now undertook to show them the " lions" of the place,
and carried them to the part of the town nearest the river, in which
were the only two houses built of red brick. There they were
introduced to an old Portuguese, who kept the only mercantile
establishment in the place. It was a small store, said to have a very
promiscuous assortment of goods, though the stock had become some-
what reduced ; as an evidence of which, a few of the inhabitants
applied to be furnished with pairs of pantaloons from on board ship,
for their own were worn out, and the only articles of dry-goods at
present in the store, were three or four yards of calico.

An American by the name of Adams, who was absent at the time
of our visit, has engrossed all the trade and business of this place, and
no other vessels but those in which he is interested had traded with it
for the last two years, with the exception of two whale-ships, in 1837
and 1838; on them a duty of twelve and a half cents per ton was
levied, although their sole object was to obtain fresh provisions. This,
together with the difficult and changing bar, will always prevent their
resorting to this port.

The inducements for a merchant vessel to visit this port are few ;
for it would be difficult to dispose of even the most necessary articles,
in consequence of the poverty of the place ; and there is no possibility
of obtaining any thing in return, except salt. Of this there are several
cargoes in stack along the banks of the river, which it is said could
be delivered on board for twenty cents per bushel. It is obtaine 1
from the salt lakes, or salinas, on the Campos, and is transported to

R I O N E G R O. 99

the river in ox-carts. I regretted extremely that I had not time to
spare to send a party to explore them, in order to have ascertained
the extent of the staple commodity of this port.

These salt lakes are known to be numerous throughout the Pampas,
and within a few leagues of the town of El Carmen there are four,
from two to three leagues in circumference, from which salt has been
taken, besides many others of smaller dimensions. From the 'largest
of these, the salt that is exported from the Rio Negro is mostly
obtained. In dry weather it is said to form very rapidly, so much so
that it may at times be gathered daily, and that it attains the thickness
of two inches in twenty-four hours. How far this is true, I will not
pretend to vouch. Still more wonderful stories are told of the larger
lakes in the interior; of their being ten leagues in circumference; and
they are described as being covered with a crust of dazzling whiteness,
so strong that a horse and rider may pass over it without leaving an
impression. In heavy rains these lakes are converted into morasses
of black mud, which, as the water evaporates, becomes encrusted with
salt. The salt is beautifully white and finely crystallized, and requires
no purification before carrying it to market. The specimens were
thought to equal in purity those from our own springs. The general
belief relative to these salt lakes is, that the salt is disseminated
through the soil, no salt in a solid state having yet been found in any
part of the country. No satisfactory information could be obtained
relative to their having become weaker, as the only person who was
able to give this information was Mr. Adams, who, as I mentioned
before, was absent.

It appears that the policy of the present government of Buenos
Ayres has been to discourage the raising of cattle and the exportation
of hides from this place, in order, it is said, to concentrate the trade
at Buenos Ayres. The large herds that were formerly kept in this
country are now reduced to comparatively few.

None of the government officers have received any salaries for the
last eighteen months.

There are about two thousand inhabitants within a circuit of eighty
miles, exclusive of a few roving Indians. The population of Carmen
is about five hundred. There are five Americans residing here, who
state that they enjoy all the protection that the government can give,
and that they are well treated.

The Rio Negro is navigable for boats to the village of Chichula,
two hundred miles from its mouth.

The distance across the country to Buenos Ayres is but five hun-
dred miles, yet it requires fifteen days to communicate with it ; the

100 RIO NEGRO.

governor had received no advices or information for the last two
months from that place. The route is very uncertain, owing to the
hordes of hostile Indians.

Grain, fruit, and vegetables thrive well, and with proper industry
might be produced in abundance.

The climate is delightful, and cold weather is seldom felt, although
ice has occasionally been seen a quarter of an inch in thickness.

Bullocks and horses are the principal articles of trade ; indeed they
constitute the legal tender of the country. The former are worth
from five to ten dollars, according to age ; wild horses, two or three
dollars, and if broken to the saddle, ten or fifteen.

The tariff of duties is the same as at Buenos Ayres, but the late
reduction of thirty-three per cent, during the blockade did not extend
to this place.

The Indians that are accustomed to visit this place (Carmen) for
the purpose of war or trade are of four different tribes, viz., Pampas,
Ancases, Tehuiliches or Teheulehes, and Chilenos. The two former
occupy the territory to the north of the Rio Negro as far as the Rio
Colorado. The Tehuiliches are from the mountains to the south, and
the Chilenos from the southwest.

During the infancy of the settlement, and until of late years, these
Indians were extremely troublesome, making descents upon the place,
and ravaging the outposts, waylaying all who were not on their
guard, killing them, and retreating rapidly on their wild steeds, with
their booty, to the pampas and mountains. The Spaniards frequently
retaliated, and by the superiority of their arms and discipline, inflicted
summary punishment on them. The last attack of the Indians was
made in 1832, when they met with such an overwhelming defeat, that
they have not ventured to make another; yet the garrison is always
kept in anxiety for fear of attacks.

The weapons usual in their warfare are a long lance and the
ballos, such as is used in taking the ostrich and throwing cattle, which
they use with great dexterity. This consists of a thong of hide, four
feet in length, with a leaden ball at each end, which the horseman
grasps in the middle, and gives the balls a rotary motion by whirling
them above his head, then dashing on to the attack, he throws it when
within range with unerring aim, and seldom fails to disable his
enemy. The Indians who are most feared are the Chilenos. The
Tehuiliches, notwithstanding their immense size, are considered little
better than cowards.

All the information gained here tended to confirm the general
impression that the Tehuiliches or Patagonians are above the ordinary

R IO NEGRO. 101

height of men, generally above six feet ; and the minister asserted that
he had often seen them above seven English feet. We had not any
personal opportunity to verify this statement, the Indians being only in
the habit of visiting this post once a year, to obtain supplies, viz., in
the month of March, at which time a vessel usually visits the place.

The few Indians who inhabit the huts or toldos on the opposite side
of the river, are converted, and are termed Indios Mansos ; they are
a mixture of all the tribes, and so much changed in habits and dress
from their former condition and mode of life, that an accurate idea
could not be formed of their natural character. They were none of
them above the middle height; their limbs were usually full and well
formed ; their complexion a brownish copper, with coarse straight
black hair, growing very low on the forehead : this is suffered to grow
long, and hangs down on both sides of the face, adding much to the
wildness of their appearance. Their foreheads are low and narrow
towards the top, their eyes small, black, and deep set. Some were
observed with their eyes set Chinese-like. The resemblance was
somewhat increased by the width of the face, which was a particular
characteristic. The nose is usually a little flattened at the root, and
wide at the nostrils, the lips full, and the chin not prominent. The
expressions of their countenance betoken neither intellect nor vivacity.
The men were generally decked out in tawdry finery, partly after the
Spanish fashion; the women had only the chilipa to cover their
nakedness.

Of the Ancases very little appears to be known ; they live towards
the north, speak a peculiar language, and are inferior to the rest in
stature.

The Chilenos are derived from the western side of the continent,
and are predatory bands of the great Araucanian nation.

The Peulches, including the Pampas and Tehuiliches, Falkner, in
his account of this country, describes as inhabiting the portion south
of the Rio de la Plata, and to the east of the Cordilleras ; they are
scattered over the vast plains of the interior. Those to the north of
the Rio Colorado are generally known under the name of the Pampas
Indians; they call themselves Chechehets. Those to the south of that
river are termed Tehuiliches ; they inhabit the table-land between the
Cordilleras, and the desert plains of the coast.

These people are represented as of gigantic stature, and it is said
by the residents, that those from the south are generally taller than
those from any other part, and Indians are said to have been met with
who are distinguished for their gigantic height and well-formed limbs ;
but this rests on vague authority.

102 R I O N E G R O.

Our philologist related an anecdote of a young Indian, who had
learned the Spanish tongue, whom he had been questioning relative
to his language, in order to obtain a certain class of phrases. After
having written down a word, in repeating it, he connected it with
some adjunct, as my father, his house, this knife. The Indian mistook
his meaning, and immediately took fire at the supposed insult, thinking
that the correctness of what he had said was doubted, and that the
object was to entrap him in a falsehood. It was with some dilficulty
that he was pacified.

The Guachos and Indians are of course good horsemen, being
trained to it from their infancy. Indeed they may be said to live on
horseback, and it is very seldom that they are seen to walk any
distance, however short.

Their dress, although uncouth and ill-arranged, is comfortable, and
picturesque when they are on horseback, particularly when at full
speed in search of a bullock to lasso. The ease and nonchalance
with which a Guacho mounts his steed, arranges himself in the
saddle, quietly trotting off, lasso in hand, to select his victim, and
detach it from the herd ; then the eager chase, the furious speed of
the horse, the flying dress of the Guacho, with upraised arm whirling
his lasso, the terror of the animal, the throw of the lasso, and instan-
taneous overthrow of the bullock, all the work of an instant, excited
both our admiration and astonishment. Nothing can exceed the ani-
mation of both horse and rider on these occasions.

Mr. Waldron, our purser, made an endeavour to purchase some
vegetables for the crews, from an estancia on the river-side, of which
an old Spaniard was the owner, thus affording him an opportunity of

RIO NEGRO. 103

disposing of many of them ; but the conditions were, that the articles
must be on the beach in a few hours, which was ample time to have
dug up an acre. As soon, however, as he learned these terms, he
shrugged his shoulders, and declared the thing impossible, took down
his guitar, seated himself in front of his house, and began to play a
lively air, which his two sons accompanied with their voices.

The coast and the banks of the Rio Negro are composed of sand-
hills, of from thirty to fifty feet in height, covered with a scattered
growth of grass, which prevents the sand from blowing away. These
gradually rise to the height of one hundred feet, except to the south-
ward of the river, where the bank is perpendicular ; at this height the
ground stretches away in a level prairie, without a single tree to break
the monotony of the scene, and affords a view as uninterrupted as the
ocean.

The apparent hills along the river are found to be no more than the
face of the excavation made or worn down by the river, forming the
valley through which it flows.

The only verdure on the prairie is a small shrub, which when the
lower branches are trimmed off serves a useful purpose. From an
optical illusion, (the effect of refraction,) they appear, when thus
trimmed, as large as an ordinary sized apple-tree, and one is not a
little surprised to find them, on a near approach, no higher than the
surrounding shrubs, four or five feet. Shrubs are trimmed in this
manner at distances of about half a mile from each other, and are
used as guide-posts on the prairie. A similar optical effect is spoken
of by travellers on the steppes of Russia.

Game is most plentiful, consisting of deer, guanacoes, and cavias,
cassowaries, partridges, bustards, ducks, &c. Armadillos were com-
mon, and the ostrich was frequently seen ; porcupines are said also to
be found. The cavias were seen running about in single file, with a
sort of halting gait.

The soil of the Campos was mostly a mixture of clay, sand, and
small pebbles, but is destitute of vegetable mould. They have the
practice of burning the prairies in order to produce a new crop of
sweet and nutritious grass for the cattle. The rock of the cliff, and
along the river where it can be seen, is a soft, gray sandstone, in some
places so friable as to be easily crumbled between the fingers, while
other specimens are of sufficient hardness for building-stone. The
stratification is perfectly horizontal.

The width of the river is less than a third of a mile ; it has a rapid
current, and a large body of water is carried by it to the ocean. The
ordinary tide is about eight feet rise, and the spring tides fourteen feet.

104 RIO NEGRO.

The current is mostly downward, although the tide is felt about ten
miles above its mouth. The ebb sets off shore some three or four
miles, and may be known by the discoloration of the water, which
just without the bar is comparatively fresh. The depth at high water
on the bar is two and a half fathoms, and the bar is a changing one.

No springs were observed in the vicinity, or any trace of running
water, except in the river. The water from the rains collects in the
depressions, and forms large ponds, covering acres of ground, but only
a few inches in depth.

The time of our visit corresponded in season to our midsummer
months, and the mean temperature was found to be 73°. The winters
are represented as very mild ; snow does fall, but it disappears in a
few hours. Ice is seldom seen, though frosts appear to be frequent in
the winter. January, February, March, and April, are the least tem-
pestuous months.

The vegetation of the upland bears the marks of long-continued
droughts, in an absence of trees, and the roots of plants penetrating
vertically. The stunted appearance of the shrubs, branching from
their base, their branches dense, rigid, and impenetrable, usually
growing into spines ; the smallness of the leaves, and their texture
which is dry, coriaceous, and hardly deciduous; together with the
general brown aspect of the landscape, all denote a vegetation adapted
to endure or escape drought.

There was formerly some trade here with Boston and New York, in
hides, horns, bones, and tallow, in exchange for cotton and woollen
goods of a warm fabric, hardware, crockery, boots and shoes, a few
articles of furniture, spirits, and tobacco, all of which are bartered at
an enormous profit. Considerable quantities of salt are shipped round to
Buenos Ayres. Vessels discharging or taking in a cargo here, pay
twelve and a half cents per ton. Vessels stopping without discharging
pay half duty ; vessels for refreshments are permitted to remain twenty-
five days free of duty, after that time they pay half duty. This duty
includes pilotage and all other charges ; but the governor seems to have
the power to exact the full duty whenever he thinks proper.

Sarsaparilla abounds in this section of the country.

As the bar is a shifting one, no permanent directions can be given,
nor can any survey be relied on. The annual freshets and gales of
wind that take place from May to October, often change the position
of the bar. According to the pilots, it had recently undergone a
change, and the depth of water was three feet less on it than had been
before. Even the direction had been altered from southeast-by-south,
to southeast, by compass.

RIO NEGRO. 105

The week we lay off the bar, we experienced much fog, and found
the current strong, two and a half knots on the flood and ebb. The
former runs to the southwest, the latter in the contrary direction. The
roadstead may be considered a very unsafe anchorage, except in the
fine season. The gales come from the southeast, with a heavy sea.
By taking advantage of the fiood tide, and standing off to the southward
and eastward, there will be found little difficulty in getting off shore, to
avoid the danger a vessel would be exposed to.

While engaged at this place, I felt great uneasiness for the safety of
the boats, the officers employed having but little experience in managing
them. The fogs and strong current rendered it extremely difficult to
proceed rapidly with our survey : many of the boats were detained out
over night, and others reached the ship with difficulty.

On the night of the 30th of January, the weather assumed a
threatening appearance. The wind changed to the eastward, with a
falling barometer ; the sea rising, accompanied by a heavy fog, with
the absence of three boats, caused me much anxiety. During the night
the wind increased to a gale from the southeast. At daylight the
Peacock made signal that the boats had reached her in safety. It had
now became necessary for the squadron to leave this dangerous
anchorage. Taking advantage of the tide, we effected it without diffi-
culty, getting off under our storm-sails ; three of the vessels were
obliged to slip their cables. The barometer during the gale fell to
29-600 in., which was lower than we had seen it since our departure
from the United States. Towards evening, when the weather mode-
rated, we again sought our anchorage. One of the boats returned to
the Vincennes with but half her crew ; the rest, it was reported to me,
had deserted. Two boats with officers were accordingly despatched
for the purpose of apprehending them, as soon as we anchored. The
men were found by the Guachos without difficulty. They accounted
for their absence, that they had, while waiting on the beach, been
enticed into the interior in chase of some game ; and the fog coming on
suddenly, they had lost their way, missed the boat, and were obliged to
pass the night on the prairie. The boats in returning to the ships
narrowly escaped accident in passing through the rollers on the bar,
and it was with great difficulty they reached the ship at midnight.
Their lengthened absence caused no little anxiety for their safety to all
on board.

Dr. Pickering on this occasion at my request visited a cave he had
mentioned to me as existing, for the purpose of ascertaining its tempe-
rature, believing it would give some more accurate information as to

VOL. I. 14

100 RI O NEGRO.

the mean temperature of the climate at this season. It was found tube
70°, in a horizontal hole, twelve feet from the surface.

On the 1st February, the Peacock, Porpoise, and tenders, were
engaged looking for their anchors ; the latter regained theirs, but the
former was lost, the buoy having sunk.

El Carmen may be termed a convict settlement ; for culprits and
exiles are sent here from Buenos Ayres. The garrison is composed of
about two hundred soldiers, principally African and Brazilian slaves
brought here during the Banda Oriental war. Among them we found
a person who called himself an American, from Rhode Island, by name
Benjamin Harden, junior, who was desirous of claiming our protection.
He was of small stature, slender make, and a light complexion, with a
mild expression of countenance, and about thirty years of age. His
story was, that he had been by chance in Buenos Ayres at the time
when the government was in want of troops, and that he was seized
and compelled to enlist. On inquiring, however, of the governor, it
proved that he had been engaged in a riot at Buenos Ayres, in which
he had killed two or three men, and committed other outrages, for
which he had been condemned to death, but on the intercession of a
friend, the sentence was commuted to that of exile as a soldier at this
place. His farther history is, that not long since he formed the plan
of deserting with another convict, by seizing an English trading vessel,
in the absence of the captain and part of the crew, and making off with
her, which he was fully able to accomplish, being an excellent sailor.
The night however before the day fixed on for the execution of this
plan, he got intoxicated, discovered the whole design, and received the
severe punishment of twelve hundred lashes, at three different times.

On the morning of the departure of the schooner, he effected his
escape from the town, and swam off to the schooner. He was recog-
nised by an officer, who knew his history in part, namely, that he had
become a robber and a murderer, and had been an outcast from his
father's house for fifteen years. He was told that he could not be
received on board, and a boat landed him again.

On the 3d of February we got under way, and were glad to leave
so exposed and unpleasant an anchorage.

On the 4th and 5th, we experienced a heavy sea from the south-
ward, with much wind.

Finding the tenders were much distressed while keeping company
with the ships in the heavy sea, I made signal to them to make the
best of their way to Orange Harbour, judging that I should thus save
much time, as well as great wear and tear to the vessels : they would

R I O N E G R O. 1 07

also, by arriving before the squadron, materially aid it by acting as
pilots, in case we should need such guidance. On the 6th the weather
began to moderate, and the wind to haul to the westward. Shortly
afterwards we had strong winds accompanied with rain. The lower
scud was seen passing rapidly from the northward and westward,
whilst the upper scud was moving from the south-southwest We
found the current setting to the north-by-east, about fifteen miles in
twenty-four hours.

On the 8th we had a sudden fall of the barometer to 29-500 in., but
without any change in the weather except fog and mist. The wind
was from the west-northwest. On the llth, the wind hauled to the
southwest, when the barometer began to rise, and the wreather to clear
off. On the 12th, the barometer again fell to 29-500 in., which brought
thick weather and rain, with a heavy bank of cumuli to the southward
and westward, a precursor of bad weather. In a few hours we had
heavy squalls, with hail and rain, the weather becoming sensibly colder.
Temperature 46°. The next morning we made Staten Land, and
soon afterwards Cape St. Diego, Terra del Fuego. The land was
broken, high, and desolate. The Straits of Le Maire were before us :
we were just in time to take the tide, and with a fair wind we sailed
rapidly through the strait, passing its whirls and eddies, now quite
smooth, but in a short time to become vexed and fretted by the
returning tide. The squadron glided along with all its canvass spread
to the breeze, scarcely making a ripple under the bows. The day
was a remarkably fine one for this climate, and the sight beautiful,
notwithstanding the desolate appearance of the shores.

I cannot see why there should be any objection to the passage
through the Straits of Le Maire, as it gives a vessel a much better
chance of making the passage round the cape quickly. No danger
exists here that I know of. A vessel with the tide will pass through
in a few hours. As for the " race and dangerous sea," I have fully
experienced it in the Porpoise on the side of Staten Land ; and am well
satisfied that any vessel may pass safely through it, at all times and in
all weathers, or if not so disposed, may wait a few hours until the sea
subsides, and the tide changes. We were only three hours in passing
through. We entered the straits with studding-sails set, and left them
under close-reefed topsails. Squalls issuing from the ravines were
frequent and severe, and were accompanied occasionally by a little
snow. The barometer had fallen to 29-250 in. Contrary to my
expectations, we had on the next day delightful weather, with light and
variable winds from the eastward, and at times calms. This gave me
an opportunity of examining the currents. Many rips were observed,

108 R I ° NEGRO.

and it was found, as the vessels were on different sides of them, they
were set in opposite directions. The current on the outside of a line
drawn from Cape Good Success to Cape Horn sets to the eastward,
and vessels sailing to the westward would greatly facilitate their
passage by beating -within this line, taking advantage of the tide 01.
its ebb, and passing between the Hermit Islands and the main through
Nassau Bay, if the time is at all favourable for it. In case of necessity,
they may obtain good anchorage.

To the eastv\ard of Cape Horn I obtained a sounding with the deep
sea thermometer to the depth of four hundred and fifty fathoms. The
temperature at the surface was 44°, and when the thermometer came
up it showed but 28°. The sounding was perpendicular, and the
thermometer had been examined by two or three persons before going
down, so that we were assured there was no mistake. So remarkable
a circumstance surprised me not a little. It was too late to attempt
another sounding that night, and I regretted in the morning to find
myself on soundings in eighty fathoms water. The temperature at
that depth did not fall below 46°, whilst at the surface it was at 49°.

The coast of Terra del Fuego presents the same general character
throughout, of high, broken, and rugged land, which appears of a
uniform elevation of about one thousand or fifteen hundred feet, with
here and there a peak or mountain covered with snow, rising to some
four or five thousand feet. The whole wears a sombre and desolate
aspect. It may be said to be iron-bound, with many high and isolated
rocks, that have become detached from the land apparently by the
wear of ages. Numerous unexpected indentations occur all along the
coast, many of them forming harbours for small vessels, and some of
them very safe ones.

On Captain King's report of Orange Harbour, I had determined to
make that our place of rendezvous previous to our first Antarctic trip,
and accordingly all the vessels were ordered to proceed thither. We
had his directions, although we were without the chart. I felt confi-
dent I might repose full reliance in them, from his well-known ability;
and I now offer an acknowledgment of their value and general
accuracy.

The channels formed by the islands are deep, with no anchorage
except in the coves near the rocks ; but a vessel is generally safe in
passing through, as there are no dangers but those which show them-
selves, and wherever rocks are, kelp will be found growing upon them.
To pass through the kelp without previous examination is not safe. It
borders all the shores of the bays and harbours, and effectually points
out the shoal water.

RIO NEGRO. 109

It was my intention to pass within or to the north of the Hermit
Islands into Nassau Bay, but the wind did ndt permit our doing so.
This bay forms a large indenture in the southern coast of Terra del
Fuego, a few miles to the northward of Cape Horn ; it is about thirty
miles east and west, by eight miles north and south, and is somewhat
protected from the heavy seas by the Hermit Islands. Around the bay
are found some harbours sheltered by small islands, and surrounded by
precipitous rocky shores, with occasionally a small ravine forming a
cove, into which streams of pure water discharge themselves, affording
a safe and convenient landing-place for boats.

On the morning of the 16th, on board the Porpoise, Lieutenant Dale
observed a remarkable parhelion, of which he made the annexed sketch.

The upper is the true sun, the lower the mock sun. They were of
equal size, and nearly of the same brightness. The latter was about a
diameter below the former. The sun's altitude was 8°. At the same
altitude, and 21° 40' south of it, was another mock sun, showing
prismatic colours towards the sun, and with a brush of light in op-
position. No halo or arc was seen. The whole disappeared in about
fifteen minutes. The masthead temperature was not noted on board
the Porpoise ; but according to that of the Vincennes, there was a dif-
ference of five degrees in temperature at the time between the deck and
the masthead, showing a state of atmosphere favourable to this
phenomenon. Barometer 29-55 in., temperature 42°.

In passing the cape, the weather was delightful. We sailed within
two miles of this dreaded promontory, and could not but admire its

110

RIO NEGRO.

worn and weather-beaten sides, that have so long been invested with
all the terrors that can beset sailors. Here we first encountered the
long swell of the Pacific, but there was scarcely a ripple on its surface.
Although the landscape was covered with snow, the lowest tempera-
ture we had yet experienced was 40° Fahrenheit.

The Porpoise, just before night, made signal that she wished to
speak us, and sent on board a tub filled with a large medusa, for
examination by the naturalists. Its dimensions were nine feet in
circumference ; the brachiae seven feet long. It proved to be the
Acalopha medusa pelagia of Cuvier.

On the 17th of February, we had
an extraordinary degree of mirage
or refraction of the Peacock, exhi-
biting three images, two of which
were upright and one inverted.
They were all extremely well
defined. The temperature on deck
was 54°, that at masthead 62°. A
vessel that was not in sight from the
Vincennes' decks, became visible,
as in the annexed sketch ; the land

at the same time was much distorted, both vertically and horizontally.

Barometer stood at 29-62 in. ; hygrometer 10°.

On board the Peacock, similar appear-
ances were observed of the Vincennes and
Porpoise. There was, however, a greater
difference between the masthead tempe-
**** rature and that on deck, the thermometer
standing at 62° at masthead, while on
deck it was but 50°, being a difference of
12° , that on board the Vincennes differed
only 8°. The sketches were taken about
the same time : that made of the Peacock
on board the Vincennes it will be seen was
the most elongated.

We continued beating into the passage

between the Hermit Islands and False Cape Horn, and found great

VINCENNES.

RIONEGRO. HI

difficulty in passing Point Lort, from the very strong outward set of
the tide, which we found to run with a velocity of five miles an
hour. We were not able to make way against it, though the log gave
that rate of sailing. After beating about in this channel a long and
dark night, with all hands up, we made sail at daylight, and at half-
past 6 A. M. anchored in Orange Harbour. Here we found the Relief
and tenders, all well.

The Relief, it will be remembered, was left by the boats at the mouth
of Rio Harbour, on the 19th December. Lieutenant-Commandant
Long found it necessary to come to anchor before they cleared Raza
Island, in consequence of its falling calm, and the flood tide drifting
them in towards the harbour. The next day they took their departure,
and with a northerly wind steered on their course to the southward,
with hazy weather.

On the 22d they experienced a current of twenty miles to the east-
ward.

The barometer stood lower than had been observed before, 29-79 in.
The weather had the appearance of a change, the wind hauling to the
southward by the west, and then to the southeast quarter, with cloar
and pleasant weather.

The 26th, the sea was extremely luminous in large patches; tem-
perature of the water 73°.

On the 27th, in longitude 50° 19' W., latitude 35° 11' S., being
three hundred miles off the mouth of the Rio Plata, they found the
water very much discoloured ; its temperature had fallen to 70° ; no
bottom was found with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. Three
sail of American whalers were in sight, one of which they spoke.

The 28th, the current was found setting to the east-southeast, twelve
miles.

The 29th, in latitude 38° 54' S., longitude 54° 00' W., the water was
still much discoloured, its temperature having fallen to 56° ; air 66°.
The ship was set southwest forty-six miles in twenty-four hours. No
bottom was obtained with the deep sea line. On this and the next day
the ship was surrounded by large numbers of birds, consisting of
albatross, black petrel, &c. Shoals of porpoises and seals, and large
patches of kelp, were met with. The current was now found to have
changed to north-northeast, fourteen miles.

On the 31st they had reached the latitude of 40° S. Many tide rips
were here observed, and the water continued very much discoloured,
having the appearance of shoal river-water. Although the chart
indicated bottom at fifty-five fathoms, a long distance to the eastward,
none was found with one hundred and seven'v fathoms. The cur-

RIONEGRO.

rent was felt setting north 69° east, thirty-six miles ; water fell to 55°,
air 59°.

On the 1st of January, they obtained soundings in fifty-five fathoms,
fine yellow and black sand ; this day there occurred a thunder-storm,
with rain and hail. The current was north 49° east, thirty-one miles ;
temperature of the water 54°, that of the air 64°.

On the 2d, latitude 41° 24' S., longitude 58° 40' W., the wind was
from the northward and westward, and was accompanied by hazy
weather ; the temperature of the water rose to 58°, air 66°. The cold
water which had been passed through had continued for a distance of
one hundred and sixty miles ; the current was found, by anchoring a
boat, to set south-half-west three-fourths of a mile per hour. The
same kind of soundings continued ; some large dark spots were dis-
covered in the water, but on examination they proved to be shoals of
small fish resembling herring. Immense flocks of sea birds were still
met with.

The current from the 4th till the 7th was setting northeast-by-east,
ten to twenty miles a day ; water and air continued at about 60°.

On the 5th, in dredging, they succeeded in obtaining a number of
interesting shells, from deep water.

On the 9th they discovered the coast of Patagonia, near Point
Lobos. It appeared low at first sight, but, on approaching it, showed
a level table-land, between four and five hundred feet high. At eight
miles south of Cape Raza, latitude 44° 20' S., longitude 65° 06' W.,the
water was seen to break moderately in the direction of east-northeast
and west-southwest ; a boat was lowered, and an officer sent to exa-
n.ine the shoal : the least depth of water found was fourteen fathoms.

On the 10th they rounded Cape St. Joseph's. The country was
destitute of trees ; only a few shrubs were seen : it appeared covered
with a tall grass, and the only living thing seen was a herd of
guanacoes.

During the sail down the coast the dredge continued to be used,
and with success, and many interesting objects were obtained ; among
them, terebratulas, chitons, corallines, sponges, many small and large
crustaceous animals, and large volutes (Cymbiola magellanica.)

On the 12th they again discovered land to the southward and west-
ward, which afterwards proved to be Cape Three Points. Captain
King's remarks, relative to the apex of one of the hills, as not being
visible to the northeast, was found to be erroneous : it was distinctly
seen on board the Relief at a distance of twenty miles. It is one of
the most remarkable headlands of the coast, showing as it does above
the flat table-land that is immediately behind it.

RIO NEGRO. U3

There is a shoal to the westward of Cape Three Points, which
Lieutenant-Commandant Long, after anchoring, sent three boats to
examine. The least water found upon it was seven fathoms; this
was believed to be a continuation of the Byron Shoal.

The Bellaco Rock was seen in latitude 48° 30' S., longitude 66° 07'
11" W. ; there is another rock bearing S. 17° E. (true), about nine or
ten miles distant, in latitude 48° 38' 44" S., longitude 66° 03' 53" W. ;
this last rock was found to correspond in position with the Bellaco Rock
of Nodales. It would seem, therefore, that there are two rocks, and
that the one given by Captain Stokes is not the true Bellaco, but that
it lies in the place assigned it by Nodales in 1619 ; it is probable that
the Relief is the first vessel that has verified the existence of both. To
account for this discrepancy, it is possible that the true Bellaco was
covered with the tide when Captain Stokes passed that part of the
coast. At their anchorage the tide was sweeping past them at a
furious rate ; they had been much affected by it for the last few days,
and had, on the many trials they had made, found it setting in
various directions, according as the flood or ebb prevailed.

At meridian the same day they were off" Port St. Julian. Lieu-
tenant-Commandant Long thinks the vicinity of Watchman's Cape
ought to be avoided, from the strong currents that exist near it.

On the 19th they made Cape Virgins, having kept along the coast
until then, in from forty to sixty fathoms water, with bottom the same
as before described.

On the 21st they passed Cape St. Diego with a strong northwest
wind, which gradually moderated and fell calm off Good Success
Bay. It was deemed prudent to wait until the threatening appearance
of the weather subsided, and at 1 p. M., they anchored in Good Suc-
cess Bay.

The Relief had an opportunity of proving the positions and sailing
directions of Captain King, R. N., and it affords me great pleasure to
say that all his observations tend to show the accuracy of the posi-
tions, and the care with which that officer has compiled his sailing
directions.

No navigator frequenting this coast or passing round Cape Horn
should be without the sailing directions for East and West Patagonia,
and he will prize them as highly valuable after he has once used them.
The admirable surveys and exertions of this officer and those under
him on this coast entitle him to the rewards of his country, as well as
the thanks of the civilized world.

The day they landed, no natives were seen, but many marks of a
recent visit were evident on the beach and in the deserted huts. On

VOL. i. 15

114 RIO NEGRO.

the morning of the 22d, at daylight, the natives appeared on the beach,
shouting to them to land. Lieutenant-Commandant Long delayed
his departure for a few hours, and landed with a number of the
officers. As the boats approached the shore, the natives began their
shouting, and advanced towards them on their landing without fear,
exhibiting a pleasant air, and apparently with every feeling of confi-
dence : they were all unarmed. An old man, who was the chief, came
forward to salute them, first by patting his own breast several times,
and then that of each individual of the party, making use of the word
cu-char-lie, dwelling on the first syllable, and accenting the last, in a
whining tone of voice. The meaning of cu-char-lie it was impossible
to divine, for it was used for every thing. After this ceremony, they
returned to the thicket, and brought forth their bows and arrows.
These people were admirable mimics, and would repeat all kinds of
sounds, including words, with great accuracy : the imitation was often
quite ridiculous. They were naked, with the exception of a guanacoe
skin, which covered them from the shoulders to the knees.

Mr. Agate's drawing of one of these Patagonians, faces the first
page of this chapter.

The party of natives were seventeen in number, and with a few ex-
ceptions they were above the European height. The chief, who was
the oldest man among them, was under fifty years of age, and of
comparatively low stature ; his son was one of the tallest, and above
six feet in height. They had good figures and pleasant-looking
countenances, low foreheads and high cheek-bones, with broad faces,
the lower part projecting ; their hair was coarse and cut short on the
crown, leaving a narrow border of hair hanging down ; over this they
wore a kind of cap or band of skin or woollen yarn. The front teeth
of all of them were very much worn, more apparent, however, in the
old than in the young. On one foot they wore a rude skin sandal.

Many of them had their faces painted in red and black stripes, with
clay, soot, and ashes. Their whole appearance, together with their
inflamed and sore eyes, was filthy and disgusting. They were thought
by the officers more nearly to approach to the Patagonians than any
other natives, and were supposed to be a small tribe who visit this
part of Terra del Fuego in the summer months ; they were entirely
different from the Petcherais, whom we afterwards saw at Orange
Harbour.

None of their women or children were seen, but they were thought
to be not far distant in the wood, as they objected to any of our
people going towards it, and showed much alarm when guns were
pointed in that direction. They seemed to have a knowledge of fire-

RIO NEGRO.

115

arms, which they called eu, or spirit; and kai-eu, which they frequently
uttered with gestures, was thought to indicate their Great Spirit, or
God.

PATAGONIANS.

They had little apparent curiosity, and nothing seemed to attract
or cause them surprise; their principal characteristic seemed to be
jealousy. Though they are a simple race, they are not wanting in
cunning ; and it was with great difficulty that they could be prevailed
upon to part with their bows and arrows in trade, which they however
did, after asking permission from their chief: this was always neces-
sary for them to obtain before closing a bargain. They have had
communication frequently before with Europeans; pieces of many
articles of European manufacture were seen in their possession, such
as glass-beads, &c. They refused tobacco, whiskey, bread, or meat,
and were only desirous of getting old iron, nails, and pieces of hoop-
iron.

Their food consists principally of fish and shell-fish. Their fishing
apparatus is made of the dorsal fin of a fish, tied to a thin slip of
whalebone, in the form of a barb ; this serves as a good hook, and with
it they obtain a supply of this food. Their arms consisted altogether
of bows and arrows. The natives had the common dog, which they
seemed to prize much.

Mr. Rich employed his time in botanical researches : the prominent
plants were Berberes, Winteria, Vaccinium, Andromeda, Composite,
(some woody) Cruciferse, Umbelliferae, &c. A number of these were

110 RIONEGRO.

just putting forth their flowering buds. Scurvy-grasses and wild
celery abounded.

The tracks of the guanacoe were seen, and some land-shells were
obtained.

Captain King's description of this bay was found to be correct ; the
position of it by the Relief's chronometers was 65° 11' 31" W., by
sights taken on shore, which is 2' 13" to the west of the longitude
assigned it by him. The latitude was not obtained, but that given by
Captain King, 54° 48' S., is believed to be correct.

The morning of the 23d they left Good Success Bay. On the 25th,
having made but little progress to the westward, and the usual arid
certain appearance of bad weather approaching, Lieutenant-Com-
mandant Long determined to anchor under New Island to await it,
which was accordingly done at five o'clock the same evening, in
thirty fathoms. Shortly afterwards it blew furiously, with rain and
hail, which continued throughout the night.

The plants were the same as those seen at Good Success Bay, but
were much farther advanced, being in full flower. Several heath-like
plants and many new grasses were procured. During the time they
were at anchor, some tide was perceptible, but it was quite irregular.

The latitude of the anchorage was determined to be 55° 17' S.,
longitude 60° 13' W. It is not deemed a suitable or safe anchorage,
unless well provided with good ground-tackle.

On the 26th they again were under way for Orange Harbour, which
they reached four days afterwards, where they were employed pre-
paring for sea and accumulating fire-wood, preparatory to the arrival
of the rest of the squadron. They had also established a light-house
on the top of Burnt Island, which forms the protection to Orange
Harbour on the east, as directed by their orders. On the 17th of
February, as before stated, the Relief was joined by the rest of the
squadron.

FUKGIAN PADDLES.

CHAPTER VI.

CONTENTS.

ORANGE HARBOUR — PLAN OF THE SQUADRON'S OPERATIONS — NATIVES — THEIR
APPEARANCE— THEIR HUTS— ARRIVAL OF NATIVES— THEIR TALENT FOR MIMICKRY
— VISIT TO THEIR HUTS — THEIR FOOD — SOIL NEAR ORANGE HARBOUR — TIDES -
WHALES.

TERR A DEL FU EGO. 121

In making the changes necessary for this cruise to the south, I
regretted extremely being compelled, from the want of junior officers,
to supersede temporarily both Passed Midshipmen Reid and Knox in
command of the two tenders. These officers had not their superiors
in the squadron for the situations they occupied; bat the duty I owed
ihe Expedition and country compelled me to do it, and also to refuse
their application to be transferred from the tenders, for I was well
satisfied, as long as they were on board, the vessels would be well
taken care of. I had a very high opinion of Mr. Reid, from the expe-
rience I had had of him ; and as respects Mr. Knox, I feel it my duty
here to acknowledge how much the Expedition is indebted to him for
nis services on board the Flying-Fish. He not only had the ability,
but the necessary persevei'ance and ambition, to perform his duties
well. So arduous were they, that I was for a time obliged to transfer
him to my ship on account of his health. The moment his health
permitted it, he was again put in command of the Flying-Fish, to the
great advantage of the service. In according thus much to his indus-
try, ability, and zeal, I am well satisfied that I but speak the opinion of
every officer in the squadron.

The vessels were well supplied with fuel, provisions, and various
antiscorbutics, for ten months. A spot for the observatory was fixed
upon, and orders left for the duties to be performed during the absence
of the squadron.*

The 22d of February was duly celebrated by the hoisting of flags,
but we had not time to make a holiday of it.

During our stay, we had at various times, visits from the natives.
They were all at first very shy, but after they found our friendly dis-
position towards them, they became more sociable and confiding.

Before our departure from Orange Harbour, a bark canoe came
alongside with an Indian, his squaw, and four children. The tribe to
which they belonged is known by the name of the Petcherai Indians.
They were entirely naked, with the exception of a small piece of seal-
skin, only sufficient to cover one shoulder, and which is generally
worn on the side from which the wind blows, affording them some
little shelter against its piercing influence.

They were not more than five feet high, of a light copper colour,
which is much concealed by smut and dirt, particularly on their faces,
which they mark vertically with charcoal. They have short faces,
narrow foreheads, and high cheek-bones. Their eyes are small and

* The instructions issued for the proceedings of the vessels will be found embraced in the
Appendix, from XXV. to XXX. inclusive.

VOL. 1. 16

122

TERRA DEL FUEGO.

usually black, the upper eyelids in the inner corner overlapping the
under one, and bear a strong resemblance to those of the Chinese.
Their nose is broad and flat, with wide-spread nostrils, mouth large,
teeth white, large, and regular. The hair is long, lank, and black,
hanging over the face, and is covered with white ashes, which gives
them a hideous appearance. The whole face is compressed. Their
bodies are remarkable from the great developement of the chest, shoul-
ders, and vertebral column ; their arms are long, and out of proportion ;
their legs small and ill made. There is in fact little difference between
the size of the ankle and leg ; and when standing, the skin at the knee
hangs in a large loose fold. In some, the muscles of the leg appear
almost wanting, and possess very little strength. This want of de-
velopement in the muscles of the legs is owing to their constant sitting
posture, both in their huts and canoes. Their skin is sensibly colder
than ours. It is impossible to fancy any thing in human nature more

NATIVE OF TERRA DEL FUEGO.

filthy. They are an ill-shapen and ugly race.* They have little or no
idea of the relative value of articles, even of those that one would
suppose were of the utmost use to them, such as iron and glass-ware.
A glass bottle broken into pieces, is valued as much as a knife. Red

* For their dimensions, see Table of Comparative Proportions, at the end of the work.

TERRA DEL FUEGO. 125

which they gave their spears, a dog, and some of their rude native
trinkets. They did not show or express surprise at any thing on
board, except when seeing one of the carpenters engaged in boring
a hole with a screw-auger through a plank, which would have been a
long task for them. They were very talkative, smiling when spoken
to, and often bursting into loud laughter, but instantly settling into
their natural serious and sober cast.

They were found to be great mimics, both in gesture and sound,
and would repeat any word of our language, with great correctness
of pronunciation. Their imitations of sounds were truly astonishing.
One of them ascended and descended the octave perfectly, following
the sounds of the violin correctly. It was then found he could sound
the common chords, and follow through the semitone scale, with
scarcely an error. They have all musical voices, speak in the note G
sharp, ending with the semitone A, when asking for presents, and were
continually singing,

Yah mass scoo nah Yah mass scoo nah.

Their mimickry became annoying, and precluded our getting at any
of their words or ideas. It not only extended to words or sounds,
but actions also, and was at times truly ridiculous. The usual manner
of interrogating for names was quite unsuccessful. On pointing to the
nose, for instance, they did the same. Any thing they saw done they
would mimic, and with an extraordinary degree of accuracy. On
these canoes approaching the ship, the principal one of the family, or
chief, standing up in his canoe, made a harangue. He spoke in G
natural, and did not vary his voice more than a semitone. The pitch
of the voice of the female is an octave higher. Although they have
been heard to shout quite loud, yet they cannot endure a noise. When
the drum beat, or a gun was fired, they invariably stopped their ears.
They always speak to each other in a whisper. Their cautious
manner and movements prove them to be a timid race. The men are
exceedingly jealous of their women, and will not allow anyone, if they
can help it, to enter their huts, particularly boys.

The women were never suffered to come on board. They appeared
modest in the presence of strangers. They never move from a sitting
posture, or rather a squat, with their knees close together, reaching to
their chin, their feet in contact and touching the lower part of the
body. They are extremely ugly. Their hands and feet were small
and well-shaped, and from appearance they are not accustomed to do

120 TERRA DEL FUEGO.

any hard work. They appear very fond and seem careful of their
young children, though on several occasions they offered them for sale
for a trifle. They have their faces smutted all over, and it was
thought, from the hideous appearance of the females, produced in
part by their being painted and smutted, that they had been disfigured
by the men previous to coming alongside. It was remarked that when
one of them saw herself in a looking-glass, she burst into tears, as
Jack thought from pure mortification.

The men are employed in building the huts, obtaining food, and
providing for their other wants. The women were generally seen
paddling their canoes.

When this party of natives left the ship and reached the shore, the
women remained in their canoes, and the men began building their
temporary huts ; the little children were seen capering quite naked on
the beach, although the thermometer was at 40°. On the hut being
finished, which occupied about an hour, the women went on shore to
take possession of it. They all seemed quite happy and contented.

Before they left the ship, the greater part of them were dressed in old
clothes, that had been given to them by the officers and men, who all
showed themselves extremely anxious " to make them comfortable."
This gave rise to much merriment, as Jack was not disposed to allow
any difficulties to interfere in the fitting. If the jackets proved too
tight across the shoulders, which they invariably were, a slit down
the back effectually remedied the defect. If a pair of trousers was
found too small around the waist, the knife was again resorted to, and
in some cases a fit was made by severing the legs. The most difficult
fit, and the one which produced the most merriment, was that of a
woman to whom an old coat wras given. This she concluded belonged
to her nether limbs, and no signs, hints, or shouts, could correct her
mistake. Her feet were thrust through the sleeves, and after hard
squeezing she succeeded in drawing them on. With the skirts brought
up in front, she took her seat in the canoe with great satisfaction, amid
a roar of laughter from all who saw her.

Towards evening, Messrs. Waldron and Drayton visited their huts.
Before they reached the shore, the natives were seen making a fire on
the beach, for their reception, evidently to avoid their entering their
huts.

On landing, one of the men seemed anxious to talk with them. He
pointed to the ship, and tried to express many things by gestures;
then pointed to the southeast, and then again to the ship, after which,
clasping his hands, as in our mode of prayer, he said " Eloah, Eloah,"
as though he thought we had come from God.

TERRA DEL F U E G O.

127

After a little time, they gained admittance to the hut. The men
creeping in first, squatted themselves directly in front of the women,
all holding out the small piece of sealskin to allow the heat to reach
their bodies. The women were squatted three deep behind the men,
the oldest in front nestling the infants.

After being in the hut, Mr. Drayton endeavoured to call the atten-
tion of the man who had made signs to him before entering, to know
whether they had any idea of a Supreme Being. The same man then
put his hands together, repeating as before, " Eloah, Eloah." From
his manner, it was inferred that they had some idea of God or a
Supreme Being.

Their mode of expressing friendship is by jumping up and down.
They made Messrs. Waldron and Drayton jump with them on the
beach, before entering the hut, took hold of their arms, facing them,
and jumping two or three inches from the ground, making them keep
time to the following song :

Ha ma la

ha ma la

ha ma la

ha ma la.

la la la la

la la la la la.

All our endeavours to find out how7 they ignited their fire proved
unavailing. It must be exceedingly difficult for them to accomplish,
judging from the care they take of it, always carrying it with them
in their canoes, and the danger they thus run of injuring themselves
by it.

Their food consists of limpets, mussels, and other shell-fish. Quan-
tities of fish, and some seals, are now and then taken among the kelp,
and with berries of various kinds, and wild celery, they do not want.
They seldom cook their food much. The shell-fish are detached from
the shell by heat, and the fish are partly roasted in their skins, without
being cleaned.

When on board, one of them was induced to sit at the dinner-table;
after a few lessons, he handled his knife and fork with much dexterity.
He refused both spirits and wine, but was very fond of sweetened
water. Salt provisions were not at all to his liking, but rice and
plum-pudding were agreeable to his taste, and he literally crammed
them into his mouth. After his appetite had been satisfied, he was in
great good humour, singing his " Hey meh leh," dancing and laughing.

128 TERR A DEL FU EGO.

His mimickry prevented any satisfactory inquiries being made of him
relative to a vocabulary.

Some of the officers painted the faces of these natives black, white,
and red : this delighted them very much, and it was quite amusing to
see the grimaces made by them before a looking-glass.

One of these natives remained on board for upwards of a week, and
being washed and combed, he became two or three shades lighter in
colour. Clothes were put on him. He was about twenty-three years
of age; and was unwell the whole time he was on board, from eating
such quantities of rice, &c. His astonishment was very great on
attending divine service. The moment the chaplain began to read
from the book, his eyes were riveted upon him, where they remained
as long as he continued to read. At the end of the week he became
dissatisfied, and was set on shore, and soon appeared naked again. It
was observed on presents being made, that those who did not receive
any began a sort of whining cry, putting on the most doleful-looking
countenances imaginable.

They are much addicted to theft, if any opportunity offers. The
night before they left the bay, they stole and cut up one of the wind-
sails, which had been scrubbed and hung up on shore to dry.

Although we had no absolute proof it, we are inclined to the belief
that they bury their dead in caves.

There is a black-coloured moss that covers the ground in places,
giving it the appearance of having been burnt. Many small ponds are
met with, as though the peat had been dug up from the place, and the
holes filled with water. There is great plenty of scurvy-grass and wild
celery close to the beach.

Here any quantity of water may be obtained on the top and sloping
sides of the hills.

The decomposition of the feldspathic rocks appears to be going on
rapidly. This, combined with vegetable matter, forms a rich soil ;
but it is so exceedingly wet from the constant rains and snows, that
it is very questionable if any agricultural operations could succeed.

At Orange Harbour the tide was found to have four feet rise and
fall. High water, full and change, at 4 p. M. Among the Hermit
Islands it seems to be affected by the winds in the offing. The flood
sets to the east.

Large numbers of humpback whales were seen in March, about
Orange Harbour.

In a small cove on New Island, a different description of hut was
seen by the officers of the Relief. Not having met with any natives,
it was not in their power to ascertain if it belonged to the same tribe.

TERRA DEL FUEGO.

129

It was built of logs, with their upper ends leaning together, in the
form of a cone, and nearly circular at the base ; the interstices were
filled with grass, leaves, and earth, in which some grasses had taken
root, and were growing. It is represented in the tail-piece.

NATIVE HUT.

VOL. I.

17

CHAPTER VII.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE OF PORPOISE — WHALE - SHIP — HEIGHT OF WAVES — KING GEORGE'S
ISLAND— O'BRIEN'S AND ASPLAND S ISLANDS— PALMER'S LAND— ADVENTURE ISLETS
-GALE — SEA-GULL ORDERED TO RETURN — RETURN OF THE PORPOISE— ELEPHANT
ISLAND— GOOD SUCCESS BAY-BOAT DETAINED— ATTEMPT TO RELIEVE-ACCIDENT—
LIEUTENANT IIARTSTEIN— GALE — FURTHER ATTEMPT TO RELIEVE THE PARTY—
PORPOISE COMPELLED TO PUT TO SEA— CAPE ST. DIEGO— ANCHOR OFF IT— RETURN
TO GOOD SUCCESS BAY— PARTY JOIN— THEIR TRANSACTIONS— LEAVE GOOD SUCCESS
BAY — NASSAU BAY — DARK NIGHT — FIND OURSELVES AMONG KELP — ANCHOR —
NATIVES — REACH ORANGE HARBOUR— ALL WELL— SEA-GULL— DECEPTION ISLAND-
PENGUINS— SEA-LEOPARD— TEMPERATURE— VISIT TO CRATER— FORCE OF WIND —
CAPTAIN SMILEY— DEPARTURE— ARRIVAL AT ORANGE HARBOUR— SENT IN SEARCH
OF LAUNCH — LOSS OF THAT BOAT — RETURN OF SEA GULL — AGAIN SAILS FOR
WOLLASTONS ISLAND-BAILY ISLAND— SEA-GULL HARBOUR— ARRIVAL OF FLYING-
FISH.

(131)

CHAPTER VII.

SOUTHERN CRUISE.
1839.

ON the 25th of February, having completed the arrangements for
the southern cruise, and prepared instructions for the continuance of
the duties of the Expedition in case of my being detained among the
ice, the signal was ordered to be made for the vessels to get under
way, when I joined the Porpoise. Very many of my crew were
desirous of following me, and expressed regrets and disappointment
that the Vincennes was not going south. All I could do, was to
promise them enough of Antarctic cruising the next year, and I believe
they are now all satisfied that I kept my word. About 7 A. M., we left
the harbour, with a light breeze from the north, having the Sea-Gull,
of which vessel Lieutenant Johnson was in charge, in company. On
passing the other vessels of the squadron, we received three hearty
cheers, which were duly returned.

Various causes conspired to render our short stay in Orange
Harbour the turning point of the discipline of the cruise. 1 cannot but
express my surprise, even at this distant day, that any officers
embarked in this undertaking could have so far lost sight of their duty
as to attempt to throw obstacles in the way of the prompt execution of
the duties they owed to the country, and the service on which they
were engaged, or would have allowed selfish feelings to predominate
over those for the public good. Prompt and energetic action soon put
an end to these small difficulties.

At the mouth of the harbour, Captain Hudson and the few officers
who had accompanied us, took their leave. I must own at that moment
I felt greatly depressed, for I was well aware that we had many, very
many dangers to encounter before meeting again. But there is a feeling
produced by the kind of service on which we were engaged, that gives
a stout heart, braces it for meeting almost every emergency that may

(133)

134 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

happen, and causes one to look forward with hope to overcome the
difficulties that may lie in the path. After a short time we saw the
Peacock and Flying-Fish under sail, following us.

The wind continued light, with fine weather, until the afternoon.
The whole scenery around us was viewed to great advantage, under a
mild state of the atmosphere, taking away from it the usual gloomy
aspect which a sky, overcast and boisterous, gives. A dense bank of
cumuli in the southwest foretold that we were not long to enjoy such
moderate weather. About 4 p. M., a heavy squall struck us, which
soon took us clear of the islands, on our course to the southward.

On the 26th, we discovered a sail, which proved to be the whale-
ship America, from New Zealand, bound to New York, and afforded
us an opportunity of writing home, which we gladly availed ourselves
of. The master of the America informed me that he had experienced
constant heavy winds, and had been thirty-five days from New
Zealand ; that the ship was very leaky, but having a full cargo of
three thousand eight hundred barrels of oil, he was in great spirits.
I have seldom seen at sea a more uncombed and dirty set of mariners
than his crew. How they preserve any tolerable state of health I
know not, and it is not at all surprising that the ravages of scurvy
should be felt on board of some vessels belonging to the whaling fleet,
if this is the usual state in which they are kept.

After delivering our letters, we bore away to the southeast, the wind
inclining to the northwest and blowing heavy, with a high and
remarkably regular sea following. This afforded me an opportunity
I had long desired, for making observations to determine the height
of the waves, together with their width and velocity. It is obviously
very difficult to do this with correctness. I shall therefore state the
means which I adopted, in order that it may be perceived what
reliance is to be placed on the results.

This opportunity was far more favourable than that which occurred
off Madeira, when I was enabled to get only an approximation to
their velocity : they were not then urged on by any fresh impetus, as
in the present case.

The Porpoise was directly ahead of the Sea-Gull, and but two waves
apart ; the rate of sailing was about eight knots an hour, both vessels
being apparently very steady. In heaving the log, I found that the
chip, in drawing in the line, was, when on the top of the next wave
astern, distant by line three hundred and eighty feet, equal to one-
sixteenth of a mile, and the schooner being on the next wave, was
twice the distance, or one-eighth of a mile. The time occupied for a
wave to pass from the schooner to the brig was thirteen seconds,

S O U T H E R N C R U I S E. 135

taking the mean of many trials, from which none varied more than a
second and a half. This gave about twenty-six and a half miles in an
hour for their apparent progressive motion. In order to get their
height, I took the opportunity when the schooner was in the trough of
the sea, and my eye on board the Porpoise in the horizon, to observe
where it cut the mast : the wood-cut will illustrate it.

This gave me thirty-two feet. The waves ran higher and more
regular on this occasion than I have seen them at any other time
during the cruise.

We had many albatrosses hovering about, and at times resting as it
were immovable in the storm, some gray petrels, and Cape pigeons in
numbers. The weather becoming thick, and the temperature of the
water having fallen to 32°, I deemed it prudent to heave-to during the
darkness.

The 28th came in more moderate. As soon as it was light we
again made sail to the south. Towards noon the wind hauled to the
northward and brought rain. The temperature of the water was 37°.
The wind now again hauled to the southward and blew fresh. At
noon we had reached the latitude of 61° 20' S., longitude 60° 49' W.
We found ourselves obliged to lay-to this night also, it being too dark
to run.

At daylight on the 1st of March we had snow in flurries, and the
first ice-islands were made. They excited much curiosity, and ap-
peared to have been a good deal worn, as though the sea had been
washing over them for some time. They were of small size in com-
parison with those we afterwards saw, but being unused to the sight,
we thought them magnificent. At noon we made land, which proved
to be Ridley's Island. It was high, broken, and rugged, with the top
covered with snow. The rocks had a basaltic appearance, and many
were detached from the main body of the island, with numerous high
pinnacles, very much worn by the sea. The surf was too great to
attempt a landing for the purpose of procuring specimens. As we
closed in with the land, we lowered a boat and tried the current, which
was found setting to the north-northwest, two fathoms per hour.

At 6 p. M. we had several ice-islands in sight. Cape Melville bearing
south-by-east (true). We now had light winds from the south-south-
west.

136 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

The north foreland of King George's Island was in sight, and found
to be well placed on the charts. The appearance of all this land is
volcanic ; it is from eight hundred to one thousand feet high. The
upper part is covered and the valleys rilled with snow of great depth.
Before night we had several other islands in sight, with many bergs
and much drift-ice.

On the 2d, at daylight, we made O'Brien's and Aspland's Islands, to
the eastward, with many ice-islands, some of a tabular form, and from
half a mile to a mile in length. The temperature of the water was
34°. Through the fog and mist, we got a sight of Bridgeman's Island,
and stood for it, with the intention of landing on it. The fog cleared
off as we approached it, and we could perceive distinctly the smoke
issuing from its sides. We made it in latitude 62° 06' S., and longi-
tude 57° 10' W. I determined to land, although the fog was hovering
in the horizon around us, and ordered a boat to be prepared. While
in the act of getting ready, in less than ten minutes, we were enveloped
in a fog so dense, that we could not see three lengths of the brig. We
were now a short distance from and under the lee of the island, and
perceived a strong sulphureous smell. We waited for some time, in
hopes of its clearing, but we were disappointed, and I therefore deemed
it advisable to proceed under short sail, feeling our way to the south-
ward, with the expectation, every moment, of encountering icebergs.

This island is about six hundred feet high, and of the shape of a
flattened dome. The sea was quite smooth, but the long swell was
heard dashing against it and the icebergs as we passed them.

On the 3d we filled away at daylight, and stood for Palmer's
Land. The birds now had very much increased, Cape pigeons,
with the gray and black petrel, and occasionally penguins, swimming
about us in all directions, uttering their discordant screams : they
seemed astonished at encountering so unusual an object as a vessel in
these frozen seas. At 6h 30m we made land, which I took to be Mount
Hope, the eastern point of Palmer's Land. By 8 A. M. we had pene-
trated among the numerous icebergs, until we found it impossible to
go farther. I have rarely seen a finer sight. The sea was literally
studded with these beautiful masses, some of pure white, others show-
ing all the shades of the opal, others emerald green, and occasionally
here and there some of a deep black, forming a strong contrast to the
pure white. Near to us, we discovered three small islets, and gave
them the name of the Adventure Islets ; while beyond, and above all,
rose two high mountains, one of which was Mount Hope. I place the
eastern extremity of Palmer's Land, or Mount Hope, in longitude 57°
55' W.. latitude 63° 25' S.

SOUTHERN CRUISE. 139

On the 6th March the wind shifted to the northward, with snow.
Great numbers of penguins, Cape pigeons, and whales, were around
the vessel.

The 7th commenced with rain and snow. The wind was light and
from the westward; it gradually hauled to the southwestward and
blew fresh. While making all way to the northward, the fog lifted,
and high land was reported within a short distance of us. A few
moments more, and we should have been wrecked. This proved to be
Elephant Island. We found from its position that we had been set
upwards of fifty miles to the eastward, in the last four days, by the
current. We passed to leeward of it. The sea was too high to
attempt a landing. In the afternoon it cleared, and from our obser-
vations we found Cape Belsham, its eastern point, well placed. We
passed between it and Cornwallis Island. The Seal Rocks were also
seen and observed upon.

Elephant Island is high and of volcanic appearance ; its valleys
were filled with ice and snow. We tried the deep-sea temperature.
At the surface it was found to be 36°, whilst at three hundred fathoms
it was 33°.

We now stood to the northward, and until the 14th had continued
bad weather, accompanied with heavy seas. On this day we made
the land.

On the 16th we were off the Straits of Le Maire, where I again
tried the deep-sea temperature, with a wire sounding-line, which parted
at three hundred and forty fathoms, and we lost the apparatus. I then
made a second experiment, with a line of rope four hundred fathoms
in length. The temperature of the surface was 44°, of the water
below, 37°. This was about sixty miles to the eastward of the place
where I had sounded before, on the 15th February, when passing
around Cape Horn in the Vincennes.

March 17th, we had light winds from the eastward, and a smooth
sea, with delightful weather. There was, however, a heavy bank of
cumuli to the southwestward, and after a few hours' calm, the wind
came from that quarter, and began to blow fresh, accompanied with
heavy squalls. We did not succeed that night in reaching New
Island, where it was my intention to have anchored and rode out the
gale. We in consequence found ourselves the next morning thirty
miles to the eastward of our position on the previous evening, having
drifted at the rate of three miles an hour. From appearances, I
inferred that the gale had set in for several days ; I therefore deter-
mined to make for Good Success Bay, and await the breaking up of

140 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

the storm, being satisfied we could make little progress to the west-
ward during its continuance.

We anchored in the bay early in the afternoon, when we took our
boats and went on shore for a few hours. There was but little surf
when we landed, but it rapidly increased, and one of the boats in
attempting to pass through it filled, and after several ineffectual
attempts, did not succeed in getting off. A boat was sent to assist, but
returned with a report that no relief could be rendered them, and that
they had determined to remain until morning.

In the morning the surf had very much increased. The sea setting
in the bay, rendered our situation uncomfortable, and somewhat
dangerous, as we were exposed to the force of it and the wind, which
had hauled to the southeast.

At 1 P. M., being desirous of sending provisions to the party on shore,
Lieutenant Hartstein was ordered to take charge of two boats, to
communicate with them, and give them supplies.

My intention was to effect this by having a line floated on shore by
which to haul the seal-boat or yawl, having provisions lashed in her,
through the surf by the party on shore. Instructions to this effect
were given to Lieutenant Hartstein, who was enjoined not to risk the
lives of the men. We watched them attentively with our glasses.
Shortly after they had anchored their boats outside the surf, we
perceived Lieutenant Hartstein and three men strapping on their life-
preservers, and preparing themselves for a landing in the boat. I felt
under great apprehensions of accident. Placing, however, great
confidence in that officer's judgment, I was assured he would not risk
the lives of the men, and his own, on such an occasion. It was with
great anxiety we watched their proceedings ; in a few moments after-
wards they were separated from the other boat, still apparently making
preparations. In an instant they were borne on the crest of the rollers,
and immediately disappeared. Some few minutes after, the boat was
seen bottom up among ihe rollers. Presently, the other boat's crew
were seen pulling in haste towards a person ; one was picked up. then
another. We looked intently for the rest, but no signs of them were
seen. We then endeavoured to count the party on shore, and we
thought it had increased, but the constant motion of the vessel ren-
dered it impossible to keep our glasses fixed on them for a sufficient
length of time to ascertain their number. We now saw the boat
returning ; it soon reached the vessel, and Lieutenant Hartstein and
Samuel Stretch proved to be the two that had been saved. Both were
much exhausted. The persons in the boat, while yet at a distance

SOUTHERN CRUISE. 141

from the brig, to relieve our anxiety, gave us the joyful intelligence
that Williams and Moore had reached the shore in safety.

Lieutenant Hartstein, on recovering from his exhaustion, informed
me, that on arriving at the surf and anchoring the boat, he found it
impossible to carry into effect the intention of getting a line on shore.
He then concluded that in the surf-boat, with oars, and a line from the
boat outside, they might land in safety. Samuel Stretch, John Wil-
liams, and Samuel Moore, volunteered to accompany him. They
strapped on their life-preservers, with which they were provided, and
were preparing themselves for the trial, when a wave curling without
them, carried them forward with rapidity ; in an instant the boat was
thrown end over, and they found themselves struggling for life in a
furious surf. Had it not been for the life-preservers, they must all
have been drowned. The under-tow assisted in bringing Stretch and
himself out, (neither of whom could swim,) together with the boat.
Williams and Moore swam to the beach.

The night proved dark and stormy, and the squalls were furious.
The morning of the 21st dawned with no better prospect. All our
endeavours to get a supply of provisions to the party on shore by kites,
&c., failed, and it was now deemed advisable for the safety of the
brig, to slip our cables and go to sea on the making of the flood,
which sets out of the bay. Previous to this time, we were employed
in supplying the yawl with provisions, intending to leave her as a
buoy to our cable and anchor ; and, to prevent her from sinking, our
India-rubber life-spars were lashed in her.

When the time arrived, there appeared no alteration for the better.
We slipped our cable, and stood out of the bay under our storm-sails.
A very heavy sea was encountered in the straits, and particularly in
the race that is formed on the Staten Land side; but we passed
through without difficulty or accident. When we got under the lee of
that island, we had smooth water, almost a calm, and moderate
weather. The contrast was great indeed, from the violent gale we
had just left.

On the 22d and 23d we had light winds, and were drifted to the
northward some thirty miles, occasionally passing through rips and
tide eddies. We had generally between fifty and sixty fathoms water,
with soundings of sand, shells, and coral.

On the 24th, it being calm, we anchored in forty-four fathoms, off
Cape St. Diego, to await the tide, and found the current running at
the greatest strength two and a half miles per hour.

We did not again reach Good Success Bay until the night of the
25th, after five days' absence, when we found the party had got the

142 SOUTHERNCRUISE.

provisions, and were all well. At daylight on the 26th they came on
board. On the 27th we recovered our anchor, and on the 28th set
sail for Orange Harbour.

On the evening of the 29th, having entered Nassau Bay, (it being
quite dark,) as we were standing as we supposed over for Orange
Harbour, we heard the surf, and suddenly discovered that we were
close in and among the kelp ; we immediately anchored, in six
fathoms.

At daylight we found ourselves in a snug cove of Wollaston's
Island, and discovered that it was the false pack-saddle to the south-
ward of the island which had served to mislead us.

We were here visited by a canoe with six natives, two old women,
two young men, and two children. The two women were paddling,
and the fire was burning in the usual place. They approached the
vessel, singing their rude song, " Hey meh leh," and continued it until
they came alongside. The expression of the younger ones was ex-
tremely prepossessing, evincing much intelligence and good humour.
They ate ham and bread voraciously, distending their large mouths,
and showing a strong and beautiful set of teeth. A few strips of red
flannel distributed among them produced great pleasure ; they tied it
around their heads as a sort of turban. Knowing they were fond of
music, I had the fife played, the only instrument we could muster.
They seemed much struck with the sound. The tune of Yankee
Doodle they did not understand ; but when " Bonnets of Blue" was
played, they were all in motion keeping time to it. The vessel at this
time was under way, and no presents could persuade them to continue
any longer with us. There was some disposition in the younger ones,
but the adults refused to be taken where the fickleness of their climate
might subject them to be blown off. We found them also extremely
imitative, repeating over our words and mimicking our motions.
They were all quite naked.

I have seldom seen so happy a group. They were extremely lively
and cheerful, and any thing but miserable, if we could have avoided
contrasting their condition with our own.

The colour of the young men was a pale, and of the old a dark
copper colour. Their heads were covered with ashes, but their ex-
terior left a pleasing impression. Contentment was pictured in their
countenances and actions, and produced a moral effect that will long
be remembered.

On the 30th we reached Orange Harbour. While yet off the port,
we made signal for the boats, and were soon joined by them, and
learned with much pleasure that they were all well. The Sea-Gull had

SOUTHERN CRUISE. 143

returned safely. Lieutenant Craven having entertained some fears of
the safety of the launch, which had been absent on a surveying excur-
sion, had despatched that vessel in pursuit of her.

The Sea-Gull returned to Orange Harbour from the southern cruise
on the 22d of March, having, after parting company, visited, as
directed, Deception Island. On the morning after she left us (5th
March,) Lieutenant Johnson gives the following account of the situation
of the Sea-Gull: " The water was freezing about the decks, icicles,
forming with the direction of the wind, enveloping every thing, shipping
seas every five minutes, jib still hanging overboard, it was next to
impossibility for us to make sail, and we should even have found diffi-
culty in waring ship to avoid danger ; our foresheets were of the size
of a sloop of war's cable, from being so covered with ice ; there was
scarce a sheave that would traverse." After encountering thick and
foggy weather, they reached Deception Island on the 10th of March,
and anchored in Pendulum Cove.

The weather was extremely unfavourable during his stay of a week,
being very boisterous. The plan of this bay by Lieutenant Kendall,
of the Chanticleer, with which I furnished Lieutenant Johnson, was
found accurate. On their landing, the bare ground that was seen, was
a loose black earth. The beds of the ravines and the beaches were of
a black and reddish gravel, much resembling pumice-stone in appear-
ance. Penguins were seen in countless numbers, or, as he expresses
it, " covered some hundreds of acres on the hill-side." It was then the
moulting season, and they were seen busily occupied in picking off
each other's feathers. It was an amusing sight to see them associated
in pairs, thus employed, and the eagerness with which the sailors
attacked them with the oars and boat-hooks. They were not inclined
to submit quietly to this intrusion, and in some instances readily
gave battle. Their manner in doing it was to seize the aggressor
with their bill, and beat him with their flippers. Their bearing
was quite courageous, and their retreat dignified, as far as their
ridiculous waddle would permit. They were showy-looking birds,
with yellow topknots, and are known as the Aptenodytes chrys-
come.

As an accompaniment to these penguins, a small white pigeon,
(Chironis or sheath-bill,) was found here, quite tame. These were
easily taken in numbers. They are not web-footed, have red legs and
bills, with perfectly white though not fine plumage. They seem to live
entirely on the dung of the penguin, and their flesh is black, coarse,
and unpalatable. Sailing up the bay, they descried a sea-leopard (the
Phoca leopardina Jam), which Lieutenant Johnson succeeded in taking ;

144 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

but by an unaccountable mistake, the skull, &c., were thrown over-
board. Its dimensions were also omitted to be taken.

Knowing that Captain Foster, in the Chanticleer, had left here a
self-registering thermometer, in 1829, I directed Lieutenant Johnson
to look for it, and note its standing. Immediately on securing the
tender he proceeded to search for it, but notwithstanding the particular
directions, he did not find it. Since my return home, I have received
a letter from William H. Smiley, master of a sealing vessel that
touched there in February, 1842, stating that he had found the ther-
mometer, and carefully noted its minimum temperature, which was
5° below zero.

Lieutenant Johnson, in company with Assistant-Surgeon Whittle,
visited an old crater, at the head of the bay, where a gentle ascent of
about four hundred feet, brought them to the edge of an abrupt bank,
some twenty feet high, surrounding the crater on the bay side. The
crater was about fifteen hundred feet in diameter, from east to west,
bounded on the west or farther side by lofty hills, with many ravines,
which had apparently been much washed by heavy rains. This led to
the belief that the water found within the crater would be fresh, but its
taste, and the incrustation of salt found on its borders, showed that it
was not so. Near the east end of the crater, the water boils in many
places, sometimes bubbling out of the side of a bank, at others near the
water's edge, with a hissing noise. The surface water was found to
be on a level with the waters of the bay, and to be milk-warm. A few
inches below, it was perceptibly colder. No thermometric observa-
tions were obtained. The ground near the Boiling Springs was quite
hot. In the vicinity were lying quantities of cellular and scoriaceous
lava. The only sign of vegetation was a lichen, growing in small
tufts, around the mouth of several small craters, of three or four feet
in diameter. From these a heated vapour is constantly issuing,
accompanied by much noise. Before they returned to the tender, they
were overtaken by a violent snow-storm from the northeast, and with
difficulty reached the cove without the boat, having been compelled to
leave it at the opposite side of the bay, for the force of the wind was
such as to render all their efforts to pull against it useless. This
weather continued with much snow for three days, when it ceased
snowing, but still blew heavy. It was the intention of Lieutenant
Johnson to carry over the yawl, for the purpose of sounding in the
crater, to ascertain its depth, and get its temperature, which it is to be
regretted was not done. On the 17th of March they sailed from
Deception Island, having left a bottle enclosing reports, tied to a flag-
staff. This was afterwards found by Captain Smiley, who mentions in

SOUTHERN CRUISE. 145

his letter to me, that in February, 1842, the whole south side of
Deception Island appeared as if on fire. He counted thirteen
volcanoes in action. He is of opinion that the island is undergoing
many changes. He likewise reports that Palmer's Land consists of
a number of islands, between which he has entered, and that the pas-
sages arc deep, narrow, and dangerous.

The Sea-Gull, after a stormy passage, reached Orange Harbour on
the 22d, with all hands much exhausted. She was despatched by
Lieutenant Craven the next day, as before stated, in search of the
launch, (which had been absent eleven days,) on the route she had
been ordered to pursue.

In passing over from Hermit Island to that of Evout's, during a
brisk gale and heavy sea, the launch, in towing, filled, broke adrift,
and was lost. The men had all been previously ordered out of her,
and most of the articles removed. The Sea-Gull again reached
Orange Harbour on the 5th.

On her arrival, finding the launch had not completed the duties
pointed out, I again despatched the Sea-Gull tender, to finish them,
particularly to examine and survey a harbour on the east side of
Wollaston's Island. She accordingly sailed the next day, and suc-
ceeded in performing the required duty, having surveyed a very safe
and convenient harbour on the east side, and ascertained that the so-
called Wollaston Island formed two islands. Leaving to the eastern-
most the name of Wollaston, I have given to the western the name of
Baily, after Francis Baily, Esq., the well-known Vice-President of the
Royal Society, as a small memento of the obligation the Expedition
and myself are under to him, for the great interest he took in the
equipments, and the kindness shown me while in London when pro-
curing the instruments. The harbour that lies between these two
islands was named after the Sea-Gull. A chart of it will be found in
the Hydrographical Atlas. Lieutenant Johnson was again transferred
to the Vincennes. On the 12th, the Flying-Fish arrived, bringing
news of the Peacock and their operations, which will be detailed in
the following chapter.

VOL. I.

CHAPTER VIII.

CONTENTS.

DEPARTURE OF PEACOCK AND FLYING-FISH — GALE — RETURN TO ANCHOR — FINAL
DEPARTURE — DIEGO RAMIERES — GALE — SEPARATION — DEFECTIVE OUTFITS OF
PEACOCK— CURRENT— GALE— ACCIDENT TO WILLIAM STUART— HIS RESCUE — DEATH

— FIRST ICEBERG — DIP OBSERVATIONS — WEATHER— ICEBERGS AND SNOW— GALE —
SITUATION OF PEACOCK— BIRDS — AURORA AUSTRALIS— DEEP-SEA SOUNDING— FOG-
PETRELS— BREAKING ASUNDER OF ICEBERGS— DENSE FOG— DANGERS-SNOW-STORM—
OBSERVATIONS— FLYING-FISH REJOINS— LIEUTENANT WALKER'S REPORT— SITUATION
OF VESSELS — COUNCIL OF OFFICERS — CAPTAIN HUDSON RESOLVES TO RETURN-
WEATHER— AURORA— GALE— SHIP ON FIRE— FLYING-FISH DESPATCHED FOR ORANGE
HARBOUR— GALE— ACCIDENT TO ROYAL HOPE— PHOSPHORESCENCE OF SEA— WHALE-
SHIP— ARRIVAL OF PEACOCK AT VALPARAISO — FIND THE RELIEF— LIEUTENANT-
COMMANDANT LONG'S INSTRUCTIONS— DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED— GALE-TOWER
ROCKS— ANCHOR UNDER NOIR ISLAND— DANGEROUS POSITION— LOSS OF ANCHORS-
AWFUL NIGHT— PART CABLES— NARROW ESCAPE— CONDUCT OF COMMANDANT AND
OFFICERS— COUNCIL— DETERMINATION OF IT— PROCEED TO VALPARAISO — ARRIVAL
OFF THE PORT — COMMANDANT LOCKE, H. B. M. SHIP FLY — RELIEF ANCHORS —
ARRIVAL OF FLYING-FISH AT ORANGE HARBOUR— PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE—
WINDS-TEMPERATURE—BAROMETRICAL RANGE— CLIMATE— ANIMALS— WOLF— BIRDS

— ORANGE HARBOUR— VINCENNES AND PORPOISE TAKE THEIR DEPARTURE— SEA-
GULL AND FLYING FISH TO AWAIT THE RELIEF— ANCHOR IN SCAPENHAM BAY-
GALE— ORANGE BAY— FINAL DEPARTURE— VINCENNES AND PORPOISE PART COMPANY
—ALBATROSS— DYSENTERY— ISLAND OF MOCHA— TRADE-WINDS— VINCENNES' ARRIVAL
AT VALPARAISO — ARRIVAL OF PORPOISE AND FLYING FISH - HEAVY GALE — SEA-
GULL LAST SEEN— WHALER.

CHAPTEE VIII.

SOUTHERN CRUISE — CONTINUED.
1839.

Ax 10 A. M., on the 25th of February, the Peacock, with the tender
Flying-Fish, got under way, and also received parting cheers from
the Vincennes and Relief as they passed out of the harbour. The
wind, as with the Porpoise, was light and variable until the afternoon,
when they likewise encountered the heavy squall from the southwest,
which with the thick weather induced Captain Hudson to regain the
outer anchorage of Orange Harbour, and remain there during the
continuance of the gale. The next morning, the weather proving
more favourable, they again got under way, and stood down the bay,
with all sail set, and a fine breeze from the northward. Although they
were passing rapidly through the water, when off Point Lort they
found the flood tide so strong as to impede their progress. Indeed,
such was its strength, that for a portion of the time they made little or
no headway; and the tide being contrary to the wind, produced a
cross and very unpleasant, sea. By meridian, they had reached the
island of Diego Ramieres.

The heavy bank of cumuli that had been perceived in the west, by
noon began to develope itself, and by three o'clock they were under
their storm-sails. The barometer, which was at 29-21 in., began to rise
as it came on. This gale lasted twenty-four hours, and during its con-
tinuance the tender Flying-Fish was lost sight of. Captain Hudson in
his instructions to Lieutenant Walker, notified him that the Peacock
would wait twelve hours in or near the situation where last seen ;
which he now did ; but no tidings being received of the tender, he
bore away for their first rendezvous, having taken the precaution to
fix four places of meeting.

During the last gale, from her bad and defective outfits, no vessel

(149)

150 SOUTH ERN CRUISE.

could be more uncomfortable than the Peacock, and although every
precaution was taken to make the ports tight, yet from their working,
it was found impossible to keep them so.

After the gale, they found they had been set about three miles per
hour to the southeast. Until the 3d of March, they had moderate
weather. On the morning of the 4th of March, the barometer stood
at 28-31 in. Shortly afterwards it began to rise, and a gale set in
which blew heavily for several hours, when the weather again mode-
rated, but the sea continued very high, and rendered the ship extremely
wet. The wind varied from south-by-west to west-northwest.

On the 7th they again had squalls of snow and rain, with strong
gales. On the 9th, although the weather had moderated, yet the sea
was very heavy, and the ship tossed and tumbled about in every
direction. William Stewart, captain of the main-top, was this day
knocked off the yard, and in his fall struck the main rigging, but he
canted and fell overboard, when he was seen to lie quite insensible,
feet up, supported by his exploring boots, which were supposed to
have occasioned his fall. A bowline was thrown over them, and he
was dexterously drawn on board again. The ship had but little
headway, and it would have been impossible to lower a boat on
account of the roughness of the sea ; his rescue was therefore almost
miraculous. Every care was taken of him, but it was soon found that
the violence of the concussion had been so great that his lungs had
become gorged with blood, and little hopes were entertained of his
recovery. After lingering to the llth, he died. He was greatly
regretted by both officers and men, for he had proved himself an
excellent man, and was well calculated for the service. On the same
day his body was committed to the deep, with the usual ceremonies.

This day they made the first iceberg. The only indication in the
air or water on approaching it, was a fall of two degrees in the tem-
perature of the former, and one degree in the latter. Their position
was in latitude 64° S., and longitude 80° W.

On the 13th the weather proved fine and the sea smooth, affording
an opportunity of making dip observations. These gave it 75°. The
variation was 33-30° E. Their position was in latitude 64° 27' S.,
longitude 84° W.

On the 14th, Captain Hudson remarked a great and striking change
in the weather since they passed the 62° of south latitude, it having
become much more settled, and free from the sudden squalls and con-
stant gales they had experienced since leaving Cape Horn. Several
birds were shot this day, including an albatross and many penguins.
Petrels and Cape pigeons were seen. They now began to fall in with

SOUTHERN CRUISE. 151

icebergs in numbers. The temperature of the water and air had fallen
to 33° and 32°.

On the 15th and 16th they had very many icebergs as their compa-
nions, mostly of fantastic shapes, much worn and broken, — disagree-
able weather, with snow-squalls passing over. A continued twilight
in the horizon and slight appearances of the aurora were seen, but no
rays.

They encountered, during the 17th, and part of the 18th, the
heaviest gale and sea they had experienced since leaving the United
States. The thermometer in the air stood at 21° of Fahrenheit, and
in the water at 28°. The ship was completely coated with ice, even
to the gun-deck. Every spray thrown over her froze, and her bows
and deck were fairly packed with it. The crew suffered much from
the gun-deck being constantly wet; and it being now covered wTith ice,
the ship was damp throughout.

On the 18th, the gale continued, with a heavy sea, the winds prevail-
ing more from the south and south-southeast. There were many birds
about, the ship ; among them a sheath-bill, which Mr. Peale made
every exertion to take, but without success. A blue petrel was,
however, caught. Several icebergs were in sight, and at night they
had a beautiful display of the aurora australis, extending from south-
southwest to east. The rays were of many colours, radiating towards
the zenith, and reaching an altitude of 30°. Several brilliant meteors
were also observed.

Hot coffee was now served to the crew at midnight, or at relieving
of the watch, which proved exceedingly acceptable. The temperature
of the air had fallen to 22°, and of the water to 28°.

On the 19th they had another display of the aurora, and it exhibited
a peculiar effect. In the southern quarter there was an appearance of
a dense cloud, resembling a shadow cast upon the sky, and forming
an arch, about 10° in altitude. Above this were seen coruscations of
light, rendering all objects around the ship visible. From behind this
cloud, diverging rays frequently shot up to an altitude of from 25° to
45°. These appearances continued until day dawned. The night was
remarkably fine, and many shooting stars were observed. The
barometer stood at 29-77 in. During the afternoon of this day, a fog-
bank was perceived in the southwestern quarter, and they were a
short time afterwards completely enveloped in a fog so dense and
thick, that they could not see twice the length of the ship. Fortu-
nately, before it closed in, they were enabled to get good bearings of
the different icebergs in sight, and particularly of those which closely
surrounded them.

152 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

On the 20th, they had moderate weather, with fogs. They had now
reached the longitude of 90° W., latitude 68° S., and obtained a sight
of the icy barrier. The fog becoming dense, they were obliged to
heave the ship to ; the sea being smooth, they took the opportunity to
sound with the deep-sea line, with the apparatus for temperature. The
line being of copper wire, they succeeded in getting out eight hundred
fathoms of it ; but when they began to reel it up, it parted, and the
whole was lost. The noise of the sea beating on the icebergs was
frequently heard close aboard, and several loud sounds resembling
thunder, which they imputed to the breaking asunder and turning over
of large icebergs.

The dip was also tried, and was made 78° ; the variation was found
to be 33° easterly. On the fog lifting, they found themselves in near
proximity to icebergs and field-ice. Some few petrels were seen
about the ship, of a different species from any heretofore observed by
us. All trials to obtain one proved unsuccessful.

During the whole of the 21st they could not venture to run, in
consequence of the dense fog, which lasted all day, with the exception
of about an hour. Mr. Peale having shot one of the petrels, of the
same kind as seen the day before, a boat was lowered to pick it up,
of which advantage was taken to try the current. It was found setting
one-third of a mile per hour to the northwest-by-west.

The 22d also proved foggy. At daylight the fog lifted for a few
moments, and they discovered the icy barrier extending from north-
east-by-north to southeast-by-east. At about 9 A. M. the fog again
lifted, when they discovered icebergs all around them, rendering their
position extremely dangerous. Every endeavour was made to effect
their escape as soon as possible. Besides petrels, Cape pigeons, &c.,
a flock of tern was seen.

The wind continuing from the northward and westward, they wore
ship to the northward. In the latter part of the day, considering their
situation in the vicinity of so many icebergs too dangerous to be held
under such circumstances, they therefore made sail, and ran off to seek
a more open sea. Many whales were seen and heard during the last
few days.

On the 23d it partly cleared, and the fog having been succeeded by
a snow-storm, the wind hauled to the west, with a heavy bank of
clouds in that quarter. The barometer showed no indication of a
gale ; the weather turned out thick, and prevented them from seeing any
distance. They had some severe squalls, accompanied with snow. On
the 24th, the wind hauling to the northward and westward, brought
snow and thick weather, with some heavy squalls. Many icebergs

SOUTHERN CRUISE. 153

were met with, which were fortunately avoided. A sharp look-out
was kept for them, and the ship put in readiness to perform any
manoeuvre that might be desirable. Some of the icebergs were two
hundred feet above the surface of the water, and of a pinnacle shape.
The snow continued to fall fast, rendering the ship uncomfortably wet.

On the 25th, the fog continued until near meridian. Many birds
were seen about the ship, and many fin-back whales. They obtained
a meridian observation, the first for the last six days, and found them-
selves in the latitude of 68° S., longitude 97° 58' W. Here, in the
evening, to their great joy, they fell in with the tender Flying-Fish.
On her near approach, all hands were turned up, and gave her three
hearty cheers. Lieutenant Walker came on board, and reported to
Captain Hudson as follows.

That he had visited all the appointed rendezvous in hopes of falling
in with the Peacock, but without success, having encountered very
severe and boisterous weather. On the 18th they left the fourth
rendezvous, having passed the 17th in its vicinity. They then turned
towards the south for Cook's Ne Plus Ultra, and continued their way
to the southward. The weather was at times very thick, the ice
islands became numerous, and they occasionally passed a little floating
ice. On the 18th the ice became abundant, and floated in large masses
around them. At 4 A. M. the water was much discoloured, and some
of the ice also having the appearance of being but lately detached from
the land. They obtained a cast of the lead, but found no bottom at one
hundred fathoms. At eight o'clock the fog lifted, and discovered, to the
amazement of all, a wall of ice from fifteen to twenty feet high,
extending east and west as far as the eye could reach, and spreading
out into a vast and seemingly boundless field to the south. This wall
was formed of masses of all sizes, and various shapes and colours.
Their latitude at this time was about G7° 30' S., longitude 105° W.
The weather becoming thick, they stood to the northward, and soon
ran into blue water.

On the 21st, at 7 A. M., they saw the ice extending in broken ranges
from south-by-east to northeast, and the sea extending round to the
westward. At eight o'clock, the water was again much discoloured,
and many large icebergs were around. At meridian, their latitude was
68° 41' S., longitude 103° 34' W., when they again stood to the south-
ward, running among the ice-islands with a fair wind, flattering them-
selves that they should before noon of the next day get further south
than Cook had. But their hopes were soon blasted ; for the weather
became thick, and they were in consequence obliged to heave-to. The
wind soon freshened to a gale, accompanied by a heavy sea.

VOL. r, 20

154 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

March 22d, from midnight to four o'clock, a fresh gale, with rain.
The weather lighting up at intervals, made them aware that they were
in the midst of innumerable ice-islands, so closely packed as scarcely to
afford a passage between them. At four, the wind still continuing fresh
and the weather misty, they stood to the northward and eastward.
The weather grew thicker and became colder. Shortly after the fog
lifted, and they found themselves surrounded by narrow fields of ice,
with contracted passages between them, extending in a direction
perpendicular to that of the wind. As far as the eye could reach were
icebergs, packed and floating, in all directions. After a short exami-
nation, some places appeared where the ice was not so compact. At
one of these, they succeeded in passing through. Fresh gales and
thick weather followed, and they still passed numbers of icebergs, of
from eighty to one hundred feet in height, with the sea breaking on
them.

On the morning of the 23d, their latitude was 70° S., longitude
100° 16' W. The weather proved clear. In the afternoon they again
stood to the southward and eastward for three hours, when they
observed the appearance of land, and discovered large masses of ice
and numerous icebergs. At midnight the southern horizon was beauti-
fully illuminated with the aurora australis.

On the 24th of March, they had a heavy fall of snow ; passed many
icebergs, and large quantities of floating ice ; got suddenly into large
fields of packed and broken ice, extending as far as the eye could
reach, in all directions, which, with the accumulation of snow,
appeared to be rapidly becoming solid. They lost no time in forcing
their way out. All on board were of opinion, that within a short time
after they cleared it, it became a firm field of ice. The latitude observed
was 69° 00' S., longitude 96° 50' W.

Having on two occasions narrowly escaped being closed in by the
ice, Lieutenant Walker had determined to return, and was making his
way to the north when he fell in with the Peacock.

The nights having become long, with the interruptions occasioned
by fogs and snow-storms, afforded but little time for running the
vessels among the icebergs, whose numbers rendered the navigation
extremely hazardous. The condition of the Peacock for a winter's
campaign, was miserable, and on board the Flying-Fish there was no
protection in the event of being frozen in. The positive nature of his
instructions, combined with the report of Lieutenant Walker, convinced
Captain Hudson of the necessity of turning the vessels' heads towards
a more temperate climate. On holding a council with his officers, he
found them all of the opinion that the season for active operations in

SOUTHERN CRUI SE. 155

these latitudes had passed, and that it was advisable for the vessels to
proceed without delay to the north.

He remarks in his report (which, together with Lieutenant Walker's,
will be found in Appendix XXXI.), " That it required more moral
courage than I can well describe, to bring my mind to this decision,
for we had at that moment less ice about us than at any time since we
had entered among it; but I felt satisfied, taking all things into
consideration, that nothing more could be done at this late season, and
that it would be recklessly hazarding the lives of those entrusted to
my care, jeoparding the vessels, and of great detriment to the future
operations of the Expedition, which an honest conviction of the duty
I owed my country, most decidedly forbade." The vessels accord-
ingly steered to the northward.

The weather, during the cruise south, was exceedingly unfavour-
able ; for, with few exceptions, during their stay in the Antarctic
Circle, they were enveloped in dense fogs, or found only occasional
relief from them in falls of snow. The crew during the whole time
enjoyed an unusual degree of health, which is not a little surprising ;
for, since leaving Orange Harbour, the state of the ship had been such
as to promote disease. The precautions and endeavours to keep the
men dry, entirely failed, from the condition of the ship, heretofore
referred to.

On the night of the 26th, they had again a slight display of the
aurora, its radiations extending 30° in altitude. Fresh gales blew
from the northwest, with a heavy sea, so that the tender found diffi-
culty in keeping company, and they reduced sail in order to "avoid
parting with her.

The fresh gales continued on the 27th, accompanied with rain.
Towards night it cleared a little, and, with the aid of the young moon,
they were enabled to run through the ice.

The weather proved thick on the 28th and 29th, and they had little
opportunity of making progress to the north, against the northwest
winds, which were light. On this night a new danger beset them, that
of being consumed by fire ! At midnight, on the 29th of March, they
were aroused by the smell of burning and smoke, issuing from the
main hold. The usual orders were given relative to the magazine.
The drum beat to quarters. On opening the main hatch, smoke issued
out in volumes, and fire was discovered under it, proceeding from a
bag in full blaze. This was soon passed on deck, and the fire extin-
guished. It was fortunately discovered in time, and was found to pro-
ceed from a quantity of coffee, which had been put below, in the bag,
after it had been burnt or roasted, the previous afternoon.

156 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

On the 1st of April, in latitude 60° 12' S., longitude 84° 20' W.,
Captain Hudson despatched the tender to Orange Harbour, with his
reports to me, and continued his route to Valparaiso. The last ice-
bergs seen were in latitude 62° 30' S., longitude 87° 41' W. ; the
temperature of air 33° ; of water 35°.

Captain Hudson speaks in the highest terms of his officers and crew,
of their promptness and efficiency in the performance of their respective
duties, and of their cordial co-operation in carrying out his views.

They experienced a gale of wind on the 6th and 7th of April, in
which the barometer fell to 28-71 inches. Some of the squalls were
remarkably heavy, and the sea high and topping. The gale began at
northwest, varying to the eastward, and suddenly changed to west-
southwest ; latitude 52° 47' S., longitude 84° W.

On the 9th, Royal Hope, ordinary seaman, fell from aloft, but did
not experience any injury. In latitude 51° S., longitude 82° W., the
sea again showed signs of phosphorescence: the temperature of the
water was 40°.

On the llth, they had reached the latitude of 47° 30' S., longitude
80° W., and the weather began to moderate, having passed the stormy
latitudes of from 50° to 60° S., where the heaviest winds and seas are
met with.

The wind, on the 13th of April, in the latitude of 40° S., began to
draw to the eastward, and gradually passed into the trade-wind. The
15th of April was the first fair day they had had since the 25th of
February.

On the 16th of April, they had much phosphorescence, appearing
as it were in sheets of liquid fire: the temperature of the water 58°;
latitude 36° S., longitude 75° W.

On the 17th, they spoke the whale-ship Francis, and afforded her
medical assistance. Until the 20th, they had very light airs, inclining
to calms. On the evening of the IDth, they made the land of Chili ;
and on the 21st the Peacock arrived in Valparaiso, where to their
surprise they found our store-ship the Relief, which had arrived at
Valparaiso some days previous.

The Relief left Orange Harbour on the 26th of February, (a copy
of her instructions will be found in Appendix XXX.,) for the purpose
of visiting various places in the Straits of Magellan, to afford an op-
portunity of making investigations, and opening a larger field for our
naturalists during the fifty or sixty days they were to be detained on
the coast. Most of the scientific gentlemen were accordingly trans-
ferred to her ; and she was ordered to enter the Brecknock Passage,
and thence into Cockburn Sound, of which we had King's valuable

SOUTHERN CRU I SE. 157

chart ; and I thought that the passage into the strait was more feasible,
and might be sooner accomplished by that route than by taking the
eastern passage, particularly as the wind was favourable. I also
thought it would enable them to explore more parts of the straits, and
those which had been least visited.

Various difficulties prevented her reaching the entrance to the
Brecknock Passage, principally that of keeping too far off the coast
on long tacks to the southward.

On the 17th of March, after being- at sea twenty days, they ap-
proached the coast, and a gale ensuing from the southwest, Lieutenant-
Commandant Long, on the following day, determined to run in and
anchor under Noir Island, which is spoken of by King as an excellent
harbour. The wind was blowing a gale from the southwest, with
thick weather and hail-squalls. Noir Island was discovered under the
lee, judged to be about twelve miles distant, when they steered for it.
It becoming thick, they did not discover the Tower Rocks until they
were almost up with, and just had time to clear them. These rocks
presented a magnificent and fearful sight, the sea breaking completely
over them. Three anchors were prepared. They rounded the south-
cast point of the island, and stood in for the bay. At about five o'clock
they anchored in seventeen fathoms, and the anchor took effect.

On the morning of the 19th, the highest point of Noir Island was
seen, capped with snow ; the wind had abated somewhat, but not
enough to permit of their landing in a snug little cove abreast of them.
In the afternoon the wind again increased, and another anchor was
let go. There was much sea, and the ship rode very uneasy at her
anchor. The sea broke tremendously on the reef astern, shooting up
in columns, such as are seen to appear under the effect of mirage.
After it became dark, the wind shifted to the southward and eastward,
which brought the sea from that quarter, and exposed them more both
to it and the wind. The anchors shortly after began to drag, and the
vessel was urged in the direction of a rock. Fortunately the wind
abated towards morning, and came from its old quarter, southwest,
more off the land, but still blew with violence.

On the morning of the 20th, one of their chain cables was found to
have parted. The chain was hove in with some difficulty, and another
anchor let go. The weather towards evening became again threaten-
ing, and produced no little anxiety. At nightfall it shifted in the same
way it had done the previous evening, blowing again heavily. The
ship was felt to be constantly dragging, acco npanied by that grating
kind of noise of the chain moving on the bottom, which is any thing
but agreeable. The rock astern, together with the reef toward which

158 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

the wind and sea were both setting the ship, rendered their situation
truly appalling. The prospect of any one surviving, in case they had
struck, was extremely slight. The night was dark and stormy, and
the dragging continued occasionally until midnight, when they found
they had passed and escaped the rock, and were near the reef. They
now shipped a heavy sea over the bows, the shock of which was so
great that it parted their cables, and their drifting became rapid.
From the set of the current, they just cleared the reef. When the
point of the island bore east of south, they slipped their cables, wore
round, and made sail; and on the 21st, at daybreak, they found them-
selves off Cape Gloucester.

The conduct of Lieutenant-Commandant Long, his officers and men,
during the perilous situation in which the Relief was placed, deserves
great praise; they did their duty in every respect. On getting to sea,
Lieutenant-Commandant Long, with a council of officers, opened his
sealed instructions, which directed him to proceed to Valparaiso, in the
event of not finding me on his return to Orange Harbour; and con-
cluded to make for Valparaiso, off which port he arrived on the 13th
of April, without anchors, which soon became known to Commandant
Locke, of her Britannic Majesty's ship Fly. He, in the most prompt
arid handsome manner, despatched a boat with an anchor to the
assistance of the Relief; and it affords me great pleasure to acknow-
ledge the obligation we feel for this opportune service. The next
day the Relief anchored in the bay of Valparaiso.

But to return to Orange Harbour.

The Flying-Fish arrived on the llth April. The duties of the
observatory having been completed, the instruments were embarked,
and every thing made ready for our departure. During the Vincennes'
stay here of sixty days, we found the weather exceedingly changeable.
The winds prevailed forty-seven days from the westward, twelve days
from the north and eastward, and one from the southeast. The mean
temperature was 44-36° ; maximum, 56°, minimum, 32°. During this
time there were eleven gales of wind, of from two to three days' duration.

The mean range of the barometer was 29-801 in. ; its movement in
predicting the weather, was directly opposite to that observed in other
latitudes, the gales always commencing when the barometer began
to rise, fine weather generally continuing until it reached its minimum,
29-109 in., to which it sinks in from twenty-four to thirty-six hours,
and where it remained stationary for a few hours, during all which
time the weather continued good. As the barometer begins to rise,
the gales come on, and continue until the mercury again reaches
nearly its maximum point, 30-244 in.

S O U T H E R N C R U I S E. 159

There were but few days on which rain did not fall during some
portion of the twenty -four hours, but seldom heavily ; lightning and
thunder occurred once during the time. The climate may be called
extremely boisterous, although from the fact of the natives being with-
out any kind of covering, one would suppose it cannot be very variable
as to temperature, throughout the year. The want of clothing is not,
however, peculiar to all the natives ; those seen at Good Success Bay
were well covered with guanacoe-skins, and are a finer-looking and
taller race of men.

Observations of any kind are difficult to be had at Orange Harbour,
either by day or night.

While Lieutenant Carr and his party were at the observatory, a
wolf was seen, at which Midshipman Clark fired, but supposed he
was not shot. The next morning he was found dead at a short dis-
tance from the place. He appeared very ferocious and fearless. Mr.
Drayton made a correct drawing of him, and a number of measure-
ments were taken. The hair was long over the whole body, and that
about the neck and shoulders stood erect. It was a male, weighed
fifteen pounds and three quarters, and measured, from nose to tip of
tail, three feet six and three-fourths inches, and stood sixteen inches
and a half high ; colour of back, top of head and tail, gray, the latter
\\ith a tuft of black at its end; sides of head and outside of legs
reddish brown ; white between the legs and on the belly. Dr. Fox
some days afterwards shot a female near the same place ; she had
attacked one of the men, and seized his pea-jacket.

The wolf is the only land animal that is a native of the soil, and is
supposed the same as that described by Captain King. The natives
have many dogs.

Of land birds, we found the upland goose, a most beautiful eagle, a
few plover, and some small birds. There are great quantities of wild
fowl, geese, ducks, and the usual sea birds, to be seen at all times in
the harbour, where they find abundance of food among the kelp.

A number of burnt human bones were dug up in a cave; but
whether the natives burn their dead or not, we had no opportunity of
ascertaining.

Orange Harbour is an excellent place to obtain wood and water.
The latter is easily procured and of good quality. Winter-bark may
be obtained here in large quantities ; scurvy-grass and wild celery are
also plentiful around the shores ; and fish are in abundance.

As a resort for vessels in distress or affected with scurvy, &c. &c.,
this port may be recommended ; and it is the only one on this coast
that offers a safe and convenient harbour to supply their wants.

160 SOUTHERN CRUISE.

On the 17th April, the time having expired for the return of the
Relief, I concluded to leave Orange Harbour with the Vincennes and
Porpoise. Believing the Relief had been detained, the Flying-Fish and
Sea-Gull tenders were both left to await her arrival, for ten days, to
take the scientific gentlemen on board, and join us at Valparaiso, in
order to prevent detention by the slow sailing of that ship.

We got under way; but the wind drawing ahead, with appearances
of bad weather, we anchored in Scapenham Bay. The weather
becoming stormy, and thinking the place in which we were anchored
too much exposed, we again got under way, ran back, and anchored
in Orange Bay.

Before leaving these desolate and stormy regions, it may be expected
that 1 should say a few words relative to the passage round the Cape.
There are so many opinions relative to the best manner of proceeding
in this navigation, that one in consulting them derives but little
satisfaction, no two authorities agreeing in their views upon the
subject. I am inclined to believe that as much depends upon the
vessel, and the manner in which she is navigated, as the route pursued,
whether the Cape is passed close to, or given a good berth : the object
of all is to pass it as quickly as possible, and taking into consideration
the difficulties to be incurred from boisterous weather, heavy seas, and
ice, it is impossible to lay down any precise rule : that course which
appears most feasible at the time ought to be adopted, keeping, how-
ever, in view, that there is no danger to be apprehended in navigating
on the western coast of Terra del Fuego, as the current sets along its
coast, and it is perfectly safe and practicable to navigate it as far as
Cape Pillar. The great difficulty exists in passing the pitch of the
Cape ; there is none afterwards in getting to the westward. On the
coast, the wind seldom blows long from the same quarter, but veers
from southwest to northwest : the gales generally begin at the former
quarter and end at the latter. Previous to the southwest gales, it
would, therefore, in all cases, be advisable, when indications of their
occurrence are visible, (which are known by the banks of cumuli in
that quarter, some twenty-four hours previously,) to stand to the south-
ward and westward in preference, with as much sail as well can be
carried, that when the change occurs, you may be ready to stand on
the other tack to the northward. One thing every navigator ought to
bear in mind, that it requires all the activity and perseverance he may
be possessed of, to accomplish it quickly.

On the 20th we took our final leave of these waters, and "on the
21st lost sight of land, passing to the northward of the island of Diego
Rat meres.

SOUTHERN CRUISE.

161

On the 23d, during a strong gale, we parted company with the
Porpoise. On the 28th, found ourselves in longitude 78° 30' W.,
latitude 56° 30' S., when I kept away to the northward, it blowing
violently from the southward and westward, with a heavy sea.

On the 30th, we had reached the latitude of 43° S., longitude 76°
W., when the wind came out from the northward. It being a mild
day, we caught with a small hook, several fine albatrosses, ten feet six
inches from wing to wing. They were preserved as specimens.

Immediately after leaving Orange Harbour, dysentery made its
appearance on board the Vincennes, and ran through the whole ship's
company. Some of the officers were also affected. It proved of a
very mild type, and readily yielded to medical treatment. Upon our
arrival at Valparaiso, it had entirely disappeared. The medical
officers were unable to account for it, the health of the ship's company
having been very good during our stay at Orange Harbour. It was
not thought to be owing to the water, as they had been using it for
two months without any bad effect, but I think must be imputed to the
cold and wet we experienced in the first part of tfee passage.

On the 10th, we made the island of Mocha. The northerly wind
continued until the llth of May, when we had a gale for several hours.
The barometer indicated this gale by a fall of .300 in. This gale
seemed to break up our adverse winds, and we were shortly after-
wards enabled to lay our course. This was the first fair wind for nine
days, the head winds having continued from the 2d till the llth instant.

On the 13th, in latitude 36° S., we took the trade-winds, Cape
pigeons, and albatrosses still continuing with us.

On the 15th we made the land off Valparaiso, and before noon
anchored in the bay, where we found the Peacock, and received
tidings that the Relief had sailed with the store-ship Mariposa for
Callao. The Porpoise arrived on the 16th, and the Flying-Fish
reached Valparaiso on the 19th, after having experienced extremely
boisterous weather.

RELIEF AT NO] II ISI-A.M).

VOL. I.

21

CHAPTER IX.

CONTENTS.

APPROACH THE COAST— CORDILLERAS— VISIT TO AUTHORITIES OF VALPARAISO-
LANDING OF INSTRUMENTS— CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICERS— MR. COOD— OBSERVATORY—
G. G. HOBSON, ESQ.— NORTHERS— PERCEPTIBLE CHANGE IN THE BAY— VALPARAISO-
DESCRIPTION OF IT— ITS ORDER AND GOVERNMENT— TRAIT OF CHILIANS— POLICE—
THEIR SIGNAL — SHOPS — AMUSEMENTS — CHING ANO — DANCES— SAM ACUEC A— HIGHER
CLASSES — DRESS — TASTE FOR MUSIC— FONDNESS FOR FLOWERS— GENERAL PRIETO
—HONOURS PAID HIM— BALL— DESCRIPTION OF IT.

(163)

CHAPTER IX.

CHILI.

1839.

ON approaching the coast of Chili, every one is anxious to get a
sight of the Cordilleras. There are only two periods during the day
in which they can be seen to advantage, viz. : in the morning before
sunrise, and in the evening at sunset. The first is the most striking
view. The outline is at that time of a golden hue, and may be easily
traced, in a long line, running north and south. This gradually
brightens, and is lost the moment the sun is seen.

The evening view gives rise to disappointment. The mountains are
seen at a great distance (eighty miles in a bird's flight) reflecting the
setting sun, and, in consequence, appear much lower than is anticipated.

On our arrival at Valparaiso, I lost no time in establishing the
observatory. The officers and scientific gentlemen were assigned to
such duties as were deemed most desirable to insure the results in the
different departments.

The authorities, whom I at once called upon in company with our
consul, were exceedingly kind and attentive, and gave every offer of
assistance.

The officers of the customs readily gave me permission to land all
rny instruments. Mr. Good, an English gentleman, kindly offered our
consul to place at my disposition an unoccupied house on the hill.
Although it was some distance to mount up, as it was quiet and out of
the way, I accepted the kind offer, and occupied it.

As I was desirous of avoiding all unnecessary delay, not only on
account of the loss of time we had already met with, but because the
season was approaching when the northers might be expected, every
exertion was made to supply our wants, and through the kindness and
attention of our consul, G. G. Hobson, Esq., this was effected in the

(103)

166 CHILI.

shortest possible time. The northers are greatly dreaded, although 1
think without much cause. One of them, and the last of any force, I
had myself experienced in June, 1822, (whilst in command of a
merchant vessel.) In it eighteen sail of vessels were lost. But since
that time vessels are much better provided with cables and anchors,
and what proved a disastrous storm then, would now scarcely be felt.
I do not deem the bay so dangerous as it has the name of being. The
great difficulty of the port is its confined space, and in the event of a
gale, the sea that sets in is so heavy, that vessels are liable to come in
contact with each other, and to be more or less injured. The port is
too limited in extent to accommodate the trade that is carried on in it.
Various schemes and improvements are talked of, but none that are
feasible. The depth of water opposes an almost insuperable obstacle
to its improvement by piers. The enterprise of the government, and
of the inhabitants of Valparaiso, is, I am well satisfied, equal to any
undertaking that is practicable.

From the best accounts, I am satisfied that the harbour is filling up.
from the wash off the hills. Although this may seem but a small
amount of deposition, yet after a lapse of sixteen years, the change was
quite perceptible to me, and the oldest residents confirmed the fact.
The anchorage of the vessels has changed, and what before was
thought an extremely dangerous situation, is now considered the best
in the event of bad weather. The sea is to be feared rather than the
wind, for the latter seldom blows home, because the land immediately
behind the city rises in abrupt hills, to the height of from eight to fifteen
hundred and two thousand feet.

Valparaiso has greatly increased in size and consequence within the
last few years, and has become the great seaport of Chili, and, indeed,
of the whole coast. Although it labours under .nany disadvantages as
respects its harbour, which is inferior to others on the coast, yet it is
the nearest and most convenient port to Santiago, the capital.

I have had some opportunity of knowing Valparaiso, and contrast-
ing its present state with that of 1821 and 1822. It was then a mere
village, composed, with but few exceptions, of straggling ranches. It
has now the appearance of a thickly-settled town, with a population
of thirty thousand, five times the number it had then. It is divided
into two parts, one of which is known by the name of the Port, and
is the old town ; the other by that of the Almendral, occupying a
level plain to the east. Its location is by no means such as to show
it to advantage. The principal buildings are the custom-house, two
churches, and the houses occupying the main street. Most of the
buildings are of one story, and are built of adobes or sun-dried brick.

CHILI. 167

The walls of the buildings are from four to six feet thick. The reason
for this mode of building is the frequent occurrence of earthquakes.
The streets are well paved. The Plaza has not much to recommend
it. The Government House is an inferior building. Great improve-
ments are now making, and many buildings putting up.

They are about bringing water from one of the neighbouring springs
on the hill, which, if the supply is sufficient, will give the town many
comforts. On the hills are many neat and comfortable dwellings,
surrounded by flower-gardens. These are chiefly occupied by the
families of American and English merchants. This is the most
pleasant part of the town, and enjoys a beautiful view of the harbour.
The ascent to it is made quite easy by a well- constructed road through
a ravine. The height is two hundred and ten feet above the sea. The
east end of the Almendral is also occupied by the wealthy citizens.
The lower classes live in the ravines. Many of their habitations are
scarcely sufficient to keep them dry during the rainy season. They
are built of reeds, plastered with mud, and thatched with straw. They
seldom contain more than one apartment.

The well-known hills to the south of the port, called the " Main and
Fore Top," are the principal localities of the grog-shops and their
customers. These two hills, and the gorge (quebradd) between them,
seem to contain a large proportion of the worthless population of both
sexes. The females, remarkable for their black eyes and red " bayettas,"
are an annoyance to the authorities, the trade, and commanders of
vessels, and equally so to the poor sailors, who seldom leave this port
without empty pockets and injured health.

It was difficult to realize the improvement and change that had
taken place in the habits of the people, and the advancement in civil
order and civilization. On my former visit, there was no sort of
order, regulation, or good government. Robbery, murder, and vices
of all kinds, were openly committed. The exercise of arbitrary
military power alone existed. Not only with the natives, but among
foreigners, gambling and knavery of the lowest order, and all the
demoralizing effects that accompany them, prevailed. Every body
engaged in trade was found more or less to recognise the system of
fraud and deceit that had become the order of the day. The de-
moralizing influence of smuggling, and bribery in open day, without
disguise, with the knowledge and connivance of the higher authorities,
whose duty it was to apply the corrective, naturally brought about
this state of things ; and the inference was drawn, true or false, that
they participated in the profits accruing from such transactions.

I myself saw on my former visit several dead bodies exposed in the

168 CHILI.

public squares, victims of the cuchillo. This was the result of a night's
debauch, and the fracas attendant upon it. No other punishment
awaited the culprits than the remorse of their own conscience.

Now, Valparaiso, and indeed all Chili, shows a great change for
the better ; order reigns throughout ; crime is rarely heard of, and
never goes unpunished ; good order and decorum prevail outwardly
every where ; that engine of good government, an active and efficient
police, has been established. It is admirably regulated, and brought
fully into action, not only for the protection of life and property, but in
adding to the comforts of the inhabitants.

There is no country that more strongly bears the impress of the
working of a master spirit, in conjunction with a desire on the part of
the people to maintain order by good government, than Chili.

The civil power has now complete ascendency over the military,
which had so long ruled Chili with despotic sway. The breaking
down of the latter was the first step to the establishment of good
order, and removed the spirit of disorganization that a military
ascendency was for ever producing. Revolution had become another
word in the army for promotion, for with it, every officer usually
obtained a grade. Each officer was ever ready to seek self-aggran-
dizement, whenever he could create a party in his favour ; and no
opportunity was lost in bringing about dissatisfaction at the mode in
which the existing government conducted affairs.

The predominant trait of the Chilians, when compared with other
South Americans, is their love of country and attachment to their
homes. This feeling is common to all classes. There is also a great
feeling of independence and equality. Public opinion has weight in
directing the affairs of state. The people are fond of agricultural pur-
suits, and the lower orders much better disposed towards foreigners
than in other parts. Schools and colleges have been established, and
a desire to extend the benefits of education throughout the popu-
lation is evinced. This has been of late one of the constant aims of
government.

The credit of forming this police is given to Portales. It consists
of two distinct bodies, one mounted, the other on foot. The watch-
men carry swords only. The former patrol the streets on horseback,
while the latter take their particular walk round a square or two, for
which they are responsible. A message may be sent through them to
the farthest end of the city, and an answer returned, in fifteen minutes.
They carry a loud and shrill whistle, the sounds of which are varied
as occasion requires, and by it a concentration of force can be effected
in a few moments. The notes of the whistle when all is well, are

CHILI.

160

When they cry the hour they all sing the same tune, but the pitch
is ranged in accordance with the scope of the voice. The manner of
singing the hour is pleasing, thus :

se - re - na.

Viva Chi - li, Viva Chi - li, las die/ and - a y

In the morning they add to it a prayer, as Jive Maria purissima las
cinco y media. The music does not differ from the night-song, but
has the few additional notes that are necessary.

This police adds greatly to the comfort as well as to the safety of
the inhabitants. To give an instance of its effects, apothecaries are
chosen weekly to keep their shops open all night, and in case of
sickness or requiring any aid, one has only to call for the vigilante,
who takes the recipe and passes it to the next, and so on to the shop,
where it is obtained, and returned as soon as possible, without any
trouble whatever. They have their particular rounds, and each door
is obliged to have a padlock. If any door is found without it, they
put a lock on, for which the owner has to pay a fine of four dollars to
the city to have it removed ; half is the reward of the vigilante.

A complaint during our stay was made by one of the officers, of
exactions made by a policeman. It was instantly taken notice of, and
punished. It is to be regretted that this police should still wear the
military uniform, as it seems unbecoming in a republican form of
government ; at least we thought so.

The shops are well filled with almost all articles of English, Ameri-
can and French manufacture. The markets are well supplied. There
are no market-gardens in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, and nearly
all the vegetables are brought from the valley of Quillota, about sixteen
miles distant, on the backs of mules, in panniers. The mode of bringing
grass or clover to market is peculiar : it sometimes almost covers both
horse and rider. The supplies are abundant and of excellent quality,
consisting of all kinds of fruits and vegetables, &c. The prices vary
but little from those at home ; beef, for instance, costs six and a half
cents per pound.

There are but few amusements. Among them is a theatre, which is
small and inconvenient, and the chingano, both of which are usually
open on a Sunday evening.

The Chilians are extremely fond of the dance called the samacueca.

VOL. I. 22

170 CHILI.

This may be called the national dance, and is in vogue among the
common people. It is usually performed at the chingano, which is a
kind of amphitheatre, surrounded by apartments where refreshments,
including strong drinks, are sold, and is generally well filled by both
sexes. The dance is performed on a kind of stage, under an open
shed. The music is a mixture of Spanish and Indian, and is performed
altogether by females, on an old-fashioned long and narrow harp, one
end of which rests on the lap of the performer, and the other on the
stage, ten feet off. A second girl is seen merrily beating time on the
sounding-board of the instrument. On the right is another, strumming
the common chords on a wire-string guitar or kitty, making, at every
vibration of the right hand, a full sweep across all the strings, and
varying the chords. In addition to this, they sang a national love-
song, in Spanish, at the top of their voices, one singing a kind of alto ;
the whole producing a very strange combination of sounds.

The dance is performed by a young man and woman ; the former
is gaudily decked in a light scarlet jacket, embroidered with gold lace,
white pantaloons, red sash and pumps, with a tiny red cap; whilst
that of his partner consists of a gaudy painted muslin dress, quite short
and stiffly starched, not a little aided by an ample pair of hips; thrown
over all is a rich-coloured French shawl ; these, with well-fitted silk
stockings, complete her attire. These last are in truth characteristic of
the Chilian women of all classes, and they take no pains to conceal
them. One not unfrequently sees the extravagance of silk stockings
in the washerwomen at their tubs, and even with their hands in the
suds. The dress in general fits neatly, and nature is not distorted by
tight lacing, or the wearing of corsets. Nothing is worn on the head,
and the hair, parted and equally divided from the forehead back to
the neck, hangs down in two long plaits on each shoulder to the
waist.

The style of dancing is somewhat like a fandango. The couple
begin by facing each other and flirting handkerchiefs over each other's
heads, then approaching, slowly retreating again, then quickly shooting
off to one side, passing under arms without touching, with great
agility, rattling and beating time with castanets. Their movements
are quite graceful, those of their feet pretty, and withal quite amorous ;
the gestures may be readily understood, not only by the native
audience, but by foreigners. I cannot say much for its moral tendency.

The higher classes of females have the name of being virtuous and
estimable in their domestic circle, but we cannot say that they are
beautiful. They dress their hair with great care and taste. Their
feet are small, and they have a graceful carriage.

CHILI. 171

The French fashion of dress prevails, and they are just beginning
to wear bonnets. The advancement of civilization is rapid ; the imi-
tation of foreign habits and customs will soon predominate over those
of Chili ; and what is of more consequence, some attention is being
paid to their education.

A rather singular occurrence took place at a review of the militia
on the Plaiancia, one Sunday, by the President, who was attended by
his daughter, and a number of the most respectable ladies of the place.
They marched down the line, and afterwards danced with the officers
on the field, in the presence of the soldiers. All the South Americans
are inveterate dancers, the Chilians taking the lead. The taste for
music is general, but although they have a number of national airs,
few have been printed. All the printed music in common use is
foreign, as are the instruments. Pianos are to be seen in almost every
house.

The natives have a fondness for flowers, although they are but little
cultivated. Few gardens are yet to be seen of any consequence.
They require constant irrigation the most of the year, which may
account for this want. There are two in the Almendral, surrounded
by high walls, and kept in tolerable order ; and great attention is paid
in these to foreign plants.

We happened to be at Valparaiso during the President's visit,
which, connected with the late victory and successes in Peru, caused
much rejoicing; every possible attention was shown to the Chief
Magistrate, by both natives and foreigners. Among others, he was
taken on an aquatic excursion, on board of a small brigantine, decked
out with the flags of all nations, and was accompanied by the civil
authorities of Valparaiso, the English admiral, and others. On pass-
ing the men-of-war, he received the customary salutes from all but
ourselves. We could not fire the guns on account of our chronometers.
On his passing, however, the rigging was manned, and we gave him
several hearty cheers, which, it was said, much delighted the Presi-
dent and his suite, from the novelty of the compliment.

Three balls were given during the stay of the squadron here, in
consequence of the visit of the President (General Prieto) ; one in
honour of the recent victory of Yungai over the Peruvians ; the others
by the citizens and foreigners to his Excellency. As the former was
an extraordinary occasion, a description of it will give some insight
into the manner in which they conduct these affairs in Chili. All three
were managed in a manner that would have been highly creditable in
any part of the world.

The place selected for the great ball was between the walls of two

172 CHILI.

large unfinished storehouses, a space of one hundred and fifty feet long
by ninety wide, over which temporary arches were built, the whole
covered with an awning lined with blue, and studded with stars, from
which were suspended some twenty very handsome chandeliers. The
whole was carpeted, and the various pillars which supported the roof
were decorated with emblems of the victory and nation. At the end
opposite to the entrance was a transparency of General Bulnes, the
hero of Yungai, surrounded with scrolls of his deeds. Along the
corridors which the piazzas formed, ranges of sofas and seats were
placed; on the walls were hung rich mirrors and paintings: the former
rested on massive pier-tables, in which hundreds of lights were seen
reflected, whilst the graceful festoons of the national flags and pennants
formed into draperies, intermixed with wreaths of flowers and ever-
greens in endless variety, encircling emblematic designs of the nation's
glory, produced an effect not easily surpassed. The reception-room
of the President was hung with scarlet tapestry, decorated with
paintings, mirrors, and pier-tables, and brilliantly lighted with chande-
liers, &c.

There were likewise card-rooms, smoking-rooms, supper-rooms,
and a dressing-room for the ladies, in which were a number of hair-
dressers and mantua-makers constantly in attendance. The whole
was well got up, unique, and truly splendid ; all Valparaiso had sent
furniture of every kind, and even the churches had contributed to assist
in the great gala fete in commemoration of the national victory.

The company consisted of about five hundred, one-third of whom
were females. Many costly uniforms, of various patterns, and not a
little fanciful, added to the brilliancy of the scene.

About ten o'clock, the ball was opened by the President, Don Joaquim
Prieto, in person, a novel sight to us. He was dressed in a richly em-
broidered coat, gold epaulettes, and field-marshal's sash. He danced
a minuet with a lady of Valparaiso, whom he had especially selected,
after which the dancing became general, consisting of quadrilles,
country-dances, and waltzes, besides which they had the lascivious
dances of samacueca, cachuca, and lordean. These partake somewhat
of the bolero and fandango, or Spanish and African dance.

By way of interlude, marches and national airs were played and
sung. The ball did not break up until eight o'clock next morning, at
which hour the President and his daughter were escorted home by a
procession of the dancers, with the music playing national airs, forming
rather a grotesque show to the bystanders, from the interchange of
hats and outer garments that had taken place.

On reaching General Prieto's quarters, they sang a national hymn,

CHILI.

173

after which many were invited in, where they again continued dancing
until noon.

I should not omit to mention that after midnight the ladies under-
went a second operation of the toilet.

The whole equalled, if it did not surpass, any of our own fetes at
home ; indeed all who attended were much surprised, having little idea
that Valparaiso could have made so brilliant and tasteful a display of
beauty and magnificence.

TAKING GRASS TO MARKET.

CHAPTER X.

CONTENTS.

JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR— B1LOCHES— TRAVELLING — C ASA BLANC A — GEOLOGI-
CAL FORMATION-CURACOVI— HEIGHT ABOVE THE SEA— CUESTA DE ZAP ATA— CUESTA
DEL PRADO— ROADS— TRANSPORTATION OP GOODS — BEGGARS — PLAIN OF MAYPO —
CORDILLERAS — ST. JAGO — MINT — LIBRARY — AMUSEMENTS — FASHIONS— MARKET —
CLIMATE— EXCURSION TO THE CORDILLERAS— MOUNTAIN SCENERY-SNOW— GUANA-
COES — HEAT —RETURN TO ST. JAGO — MAYPOCHO — JOURNEY TO SAN FELIPE —
QUILLOTA — TUPONGATI PEAK — DIKES — EVANGELISTO CELIDONO — FARM-HOUSE —
CATCHING WILD HORSES — RANCHO — ENTERTAINMENT — ARRIVAL AT SAN FELIPE
DE ACONCAGUA— MR. NEWMAN'S— MR. CHASE— TOWN OF SAN FELIPE — CHICH A AND
AGUARDIENTE — THEIR MANUFACTURE — AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS — VISIT THE
COPPER MINES— MODES OF WORKING THEM— THEIR SITUATION— TRANSPORTATION
OF ORES— WAGES— TEMPERANCE REGULATIONS— LAKE ON THE HIGH CORDILLERAS-
COPPER ORES— RETURN TO SAN FELIPE— KINDNESS OF MR. NEWMAN AND LADY—
CELIDONO — aUILLOTA — RETURN TO VALPARAISO — EARTHQUAKES — PROTESTANT
CHURCH — LIBERALITY OF PRIESTHOOD— OR ACION— COMMERCE— EXPORTS — IMPORTS
— FOREIGN VESSELS — POPULATION — COLLEGES — CONGRESS — IMPROVEMENTS IN
PROGRESS — REVENUE — NATIONAL DEBT — CLIMATE — FRUITS — ADMINISTRATION —
EXECUTIVE— SENATE— HOUSE OF DEPUTIES— MILITIA— ARMY— NAVY— G. G. HOBSON,
ESQ., U. S. CONSUL— LIEUTENANT CRAVEN— HIS GALLANT CONDUCT— CAPTAIN ISAAC
M'KEEVER— U. S. SHIP FALMOUTH— FLYING-FISH— GALE— SEA-GULL LAST SEEN— HER
LOSS— PASSED MIDSHIPMAN JAMES W. E. REID— PASSED MIDSHIPMAN FREDERICK A.
BACON— ADMINISTRATION OF GOVERNMENT OF CHILI.

U75)

CHAPTER X.

CHILI — CONTINUED.
1839.

PREVIOUS to my arrival at Valparaiso, the naturalists and some
officers on board the Peacock and Relief had made excursions into
the interior. On my arrival, I allowed all those who could be spared,
and were desirous of visiting Santiago, sufficient leave to make the
trip. Several set out for that city, and some with a view of extending
their journey to the Cordilleras beyond.

The bilocheros were eager for opportunities to hire their biloches,
a vehicle somewhat resembling a double gig, which is generally used
for travelling in Chili. They have a most rickety and worn-out
appearance; almost every part appears mended with cords made of
hide. They accommodate two passengers ; and the time required
between Valparaiso and the city (Santiago), is about eighteen or
twenty hours. In the shafts a horse is put ; a postilion rides one on
the left, and sometimes another is placed on the right, both being
fastened to the vehicle by lassos of raw-hide proceeding from the
saddle. Each vehicle is attended by three bilocheros or drivers, with
a drove of twelve or fifteen horses, forming quite a cavalcade.

The bilocheros are very expert at their business. They are excellent
riders, having been brought up to this exercise from their infancy, and
understand managing their horses, though in a rude way. Their
horses are small, but spirited, and bear fatigue well. Their usual
speed is about nine or ten miles an hour. Few equipages can com-
pare with these crazy machines, driven, as they sometimes are, pell-
mell up hill and down dale, with all their accompaniments of horses,
Guachos, &c. ; and it affords no small amusement to those on foot, to
witness the consternation of the affrighted passengers, in momentary
expectation of a break-down, and a broken neck or limbs. It is a

VOL. i. 23 <177)

178 CHILI.

difficult matter to acquire composure, on seeing the numerous tem-
porary lashings, giving ocular proof that accidents have been frequent,
however well satisfied one may be with the skill of the conductor.
Fortunately the road is excellent, though at this season (May) it is
divested of much of its beauty from the want of vegetation. The inte-
rest is, however, carried forward to the lofty peaks of the Andes, of
whose summits occasional glimpses are had ; and the eye glances over
the surrounding scenery in the immediate neighbourhood, that would
elsewhere be deemed grand, to rest on some high and towering peak.
Among these the peak of Tupongati is the most noted, ranking, since
the measurement of King, as next in height to the Himmaleh mountains.

The first stopping-place is at Casa Blanca, a small pueblo of some
five hundred inhabitants, where travellers usually sleep. The accom-
modations were good, having been recently much improve!. In the
neighbourhood is the only tract of woodland to be found in this part
of the country. The elevation of Casa Blanca, about thirty miles
from Valparaiso, is five hundred and ninety-eight feet about the level
of the sea. The primitive district extends about fifty miles from the
coast, and of course is found here. It is composed chiefly of gneiss,
which is generally easily decomposed. The mountains, in conse-
quence, are not rugged, but of an easy ascent, and mural precipices
are not met with. The gneiss was in some places observed to pass
into hornblende rock, resembling the trachytic or igneous greenstone.
It contains abundance of diffused epidote, and among the minerals
schorl was observed, but no garnets were found.

The road from Casa Blanca next passes through Curacovi, a small
pueblo, three hundred and forty-four feet above the level of the sea,
where the trap rock first makes its appearance, and then over a high
ridge, called the Cuesta de Zapata. This terminates the first plain,
and divides it from the second, of similar character, which extends to
the Cuesta del Prado. It is passed over by a zigzag road, and was
found to be two thousand three hundred and ninety-four feet high.
On reaching the top, the view that presents itself is extensive and
magnificent.

In front is the extensive plain of Maypo, with here and there a conical
mountain standing alone on it. At the extremity of the plain rise the
lofty peaks of the Andes, covered with eternal snow, some reaching
above the clouds. They appear but a few hours' ride off, although at
a distance of twenty leagues. On either side rise the high ridges of
the Cuesta. Beneath lie grazing grounds, extending over the plain,
and covered with flocks and herds. Variety and life are given to the
whole by the view of the national road, on which are seen numbers of

CHILI 181

into bold relief, and at times produce yellow and red tints, which give
a remarkable character to the whole scene. The red tints are often
accompanied with a green hue in the sky. The city is surrounded by
many fine orchards, gardens, farms, and grazing grounds. The former
being enclosed by high adobe walls, give it a rather unpleasant
appearance, until the city is fairly entered, when the streets have a
fresh and clean look. The city is laid out in squares. Its streets are
well paved, and have good sidewalks. This fresh and clean appear-
ance, we afterwards understood was owing to a law, obliging all
to whitewash their houses and walls once a year, a practice which
gives a general uniformity, at least in colour, to the whole, and forms
an agreeable contrast with the red-tiled roofs. The houses are mostly
of one story, built in the form of a hollow square, from twenty to forty
feet wide, round which the rooms are situated. The roof projects so
as to form a kind of piazza or covered-way. The gateway is usually
large, and the rooms on each side of it are not connected with the rest
of the building, but are rented as shops. Opposite to the gateway is
the centre window, guarded by a light and ornamental iron frame,
painted green or richly gilt. The court-yard is usually neatly paved
with small rounded pebbles from the bed of the Maypocho, arranged in
fanciful forms ; but in many cases they are laid out in flower-gardens,
where roses and geraniums are seen in full bloom.

The river Maypocho runs through one portion of the city, and
supplies it with water, which is conducted through all the principal
streets, assisting much in preserving their cleanliness, though not suffi-
cient to supersede the necessity of scavengers. In the centre of the
city is the great Plaza, where the public buildings are situated. These
are built of a coarse kind of porphyry, obtained from the mountains,
and are on a large scale. The cathedral and palace each occupy one
side; in the centre is a fountain, with several statues of Italian marble;
but which is entirely too small to have any effect in so large a square.
All these buildings are much out of repair, having been at various
times damaged by earthquakes.

The cathedral is very large and extensive. Its altar is decked with
a great quantity of gold and silver. There are many paintings and
hangings, among which is a large number of trophies, which have
been taken in their various wars, and are here preserved. The
niches are filled with wax figures, representing saints ; and there are
also the remains of two martyrs of the church, in a tolerably good
state of preservation.

The palace was originally built for the Viceroy. It is now appro-
priated to the accommodation of the President, and the public offices.

182 CHILI.

On the side opposite to the palace is a colonnade, which is not yet
finished, and will occupy the whole side of the square. Under its
portico are fancy and dry-goods shops, and between the columns
various trades, or lace and fringe-makers are at work. In the even-
ing, this becomes a most busy scene. Females, with large flat baskets
before them, are vending shoes, fruit, and fancy articles ; others are
employed in cooking cakes, and the whole lighted up as it is with
numerous candles, affords much amusement to the stranger, besides
giving him an opportunity to see a large number of the inhabitants.
The greater part of those present are females.

The mint occupies a whole square ; it has never yet been completed,
and has also suffered greatly from earthquakes. The operation of
coining is in the rudest and oldest form, the same as practised in
Europe in the last century. The rolling and cutting are done by
mule-power, and the oldest kind of fly-press, with a great screw beam,
having enormous balls at the end, is used. The dies they use are
made from the male die, in the same way as with us, but they have
not the same facilities, and want the modern improvements in the pro-
cess. A toggle-jointed press was imported from France ; but it was
soon put out of order by the workmen, and there being no one to
repair it, its use has been abandoned.

The library is extensive, containing several thousand volumes,
which formerly belonged to the Jesuits, and many curious manuscripts
relating to the Indians.

The amusements are not very remarkable. Santiago, however,
boasts of a theatre, and a chingano. There appears to be little busi-
ness doing, and it may be called a quiet city. The siesta is daily
indulged in ; even the shops were shut in the afternoon, and the city is
as quiet as midnight. Towards the cool of the evening, the Alameda
is resorted to. It is a beautiful walk, about a mile in extent, well
shaded, and occupies one bank of the river. It is planted with a
double row of poplar trees, which seem to thrive well here. Streams
of water are constantly running on each side of the walk. Every few
yards stone seats are placed, which are at times filled with a well-
dressed population. The Alameda affords at all times a cool and
pleasant promenade.

The evenings are generally passed at terlulias, in visiting socially,
or in shopping in the colonnade. The inhabitants are much addicted
to gambling. Monte is the game with the higher classes, whilst that
of match-penny is the favourite of the lower orders. The Chilian
ladies are remarkable for their ease of manner, kindness, and attention
to strangers. They are fond of diversions of any kind, but more

CHILI. 185

became almost wholly extinct. Places occurred of an eighth of a
mile in breadth, destitute of verdure of any kind. The party then
ascended a ridge belonging to the main body of the Cordilleras, and at
an elevation of about ten thousand feet, they reached its summit.
Here they had an extensive view of all the line of the snow peaks.
That of Tupongati appeared the most conspicuous, although at a
distance of eighty miles. The guide asserted that he could see smoke
issuing from its volcano in a faint streak, but it was beyond the vision
of our gentlemen. The peak itself from this view of it was quite
sharp-pointed. The scene immediately around them was one of
grandeur and desolation : mountain after mountain, separated by
immense chasms, to the depth of thousands of feet, and the sides
broken in the most fantastic forms imaginable. In these higher parts
of the Cordilleras they found a large admixture of the jaspery aluminous
rock, which forms the base of the finest porphyries ; also chlorite, in
abundance. The rock likewise contains fine white chalcedony in
irregular straggling masses. Trachytic breccia was observed in
various places. The porphyry is of a dull purple colour, rather lighter
than the red sandstone of the United States. No traces of cellular
lava were seen, nor of other more recent volcanic productions. No
limestone was seen in the regions traversed by our parties; all the
lime used at Santiago is obtained from sea-shells ; nor were any
proper sedimentary rocks seen.

Nothing could be more striking than the complete silence that
reigned every where ; not a living thing appeared to their view.

After spending some time on the top, they began their descent ; and
after two hours' hard travelling they reached the snow line, and
passed the night very comfortably in the open air, with their blankets
and pillions, or saddle-cloths. Fuel for a fire they unexpectedly found
in abundance : the Alpinia umbellifera answering admirably for that
purpose, from the quantity of resinous matter it contains. Near their
camp was the bank of snow before spoken of, from which the city
has been supplied for many years. It covers several acres. The
snow line here seemed to have remained constant, and would have
afforded a fine opportunity to have verified the rule of Humboldt, but
they had no instruments. The height they had ascended was supposed
to have been about eleven thousand feet, and the Cordilleras opposite
them about four thousand feet higher. The view of the mass of the
Cordilleras, in its general outline, was not unlike those of Mont Blanc
and other mountains in Switzerland.

Mr. Peale went in search of the guanacoes, and succeeded in killing
one nine feet in length and four feet in height. They were found to

24

186 CHILI.

frequent only the most inaccessible summits, and are said never to
leave the vicinity of the snow. They feed upon several small thorny
bushes, which impart a flavour to their flesh, and a smell to their
excrement that may be distinguished at some distance from their
places of resort. They make a peculiar sound when alarmed, like
that of the katydid, (Gryllus.) This animal is never hunted for the
market, though its flesh is good. The Benzoar is often found in its
stomach, and is highly prized among the natives and Spaniards as a
remedy for various complaints. It is also used as a gum.

All the party suffered greatly from the heat of the sun's rays, and
the dryness of the atmosphere. Their faces and hands were blistered,
and the nose and lips made exceedingly sore, while the reflection of
the light from the snow caused a painful sensation to the eyes.

The next day they reached Santiago, whence they returned to the
Port, as Valparaiso is usually distinguished in the country.

Over the Maypocho at Santiago there is a substantial stone bridge,
with five arches. For nine months of almost every year, the bed of
the stream is nearly dry. At the time of our visit it was about two
yards wide and several inches deep; but in the winter and spring,
during the melting of the snows, it becomes quite a torrent, and from
the damage that has been done in former times, they have taken the
precaution to wall it in on the side of the city, towards the Cordilleras,
for several miles, with stone and hard brick. When swollen it is a
quarter of a mile wide, rapid and deep, and would cut off the commu-
nication with the surrounding country were it not for the bridge.

Messrs. Couthouy and Dana were desirous of making a trip to the
copper mines of San Felipe, to which I readily consented, and gave
them all the time possible. Although this was short, yet by their
indefatigable industry it afforded some interesting results. They left
Valparaiso on the 17th for San Felipe, which is about one hundred
miles north of Valparaiso. They were to have taken a barometer
with them in case of ascending some heights, but it was forgotten.

These gentlemen took a biloche as far as Quillota, a distance of
forty miles, and proceeded thence to San Felipe on horses; for the use
of which they were to give thirty dollars each, and one dollar extra
for the service of the peon who accompanied them, for seven days.
The road to Quillota was found good, although many hills and valleys
were met with.

For the first twenty-five miles the road passed along the sea-shore,
with no elevation over two hundred feet ; it was thought equal to the
most frequented turnpikes in our own country. At six miles from
Valparaiso, the road is cut through a bed of sienite, remarkable for

CHILI. 187

the singular vertical dikes of granite by which it is intersected. As
this curious formation will be ably treated of in the Geological Report,
I shall refer the reader to that for a description.

Ten miles from Valparaiso, the valley of Villa del Mar, having a
breadth of nearly three miles, is crossed. This is a sandy plain,
through which a broad shallow stream, coming from the eastern hills,
runs. At twenty-five miles they reached the broad valley of Concon.
Here the road turns to the eastward. This valley varies in width
from three to six miles. The character of the rocks is granitic, and
they appear to decompose rapidly when exposed to the air. Sienite
was frequent, and on approaching the mountains, numerous varieties
of trap formation, greenstone, porphyry, &c., were met with.

Ten miles before reaching Quillota, the road passes over a level
plain, which extends beyond that place. The hills which bound the
valley to the south, are of low elevation until approaching Quillota.
Near Quillota, in the south and southeastern direction, a lofty ridge
rises, adjoining the campagna of Quillota, which is one of the high
cones used as sea-marks for the harbour of Valparaiso. This is lost
sight of at the town, in consequence of it being shut out by an inter-
vening ridge. The town, or city of Quillota, occupies the centre of the
valley, and is twenty miles from the sea. They reached it about one
hour before sunset, when they stopped at Mr. Blanchard's, who keeps
a house for the accommodation of foreigners.

On the 18th they arose at daybreak, at which time the thermometer
stood at 36° in the open air, seventy feet above the sea.

The town of Quillota, (according to Mr. Blanchard,) is embraced
within a circumference of three leagues. It contains several churches,
of simple construction. The " Calle Largo," the longest street, is
upwards of a league in length. The same authority gives its popula-
tion at ten thousand inhabitants. The houses are all of one story, and
are built of adobes, with thatched roofs. There is an abundance of
fine building-stone, but in this land of earthquakes, it is considered
safest to use the lightest materials. Almost every house has a vineyard
attached to it, the grapes of which were of good quality, and very
abundant. At some places, although the vintage was half gathered,
yet the crop still on the vines was such as would have been considered
elsewhere an abundant yield. A portion of the grapes rot upon the
vines, as the inhabitants have not the industry or inclination to manu-
facture them, although by proper attention they would yield a good
wine. As it is, they only manufacture some into a hard and acid wine,
called Masta, or boil the juice down to the favourite drink of the lower
classes, called Chicha, which somewhat resembles perry or cider in

188 CHILI.

flavour. The small quantity that is not consumed, is distilled into
aguardiente, and disposed of at Valparaiso. Besides grapes, consider-
able quantities of wheat and Indian corn are cultivated. Apples,
pears, and quinces, are also raised. The former are inferior to our
own, the latter much superior, and in great plenty.

Oranges were also abundant, but of indifferent flavour.

Quillota is well supplied with water from the river Concon or
Aconcagua. The water is led through all the streets and gardens of
the place. It is used for all household purposes, as taken directly from
the gutters, which are the recipients of dirt of every description from
the town. For drinking, it is allowed to settle in large jars kept for
the purpose.

The intercourse with strangers at Quillota, has been much less than
at Valparaiso or Santiago, and consequently they are less liberal, and
more bigoted. This was particularly shown, about four years previous
to our visit, by their burning in the public square, a large number of
Bibles in the Spanish language, along with a heap of immoral and
indecent pamphlets, in the presence of the civil, military, and ecclesi-
astical authorities. These Bibles had been distributed by our country-
man, Mr. Wheelwright, who has done so much by his enterprise in
introducing the communication by steam along the western coast of
South America.

In the morning early, the thermometer stood at 36°. The greatest
cold is experienced just before sunrise and after sunset.

On leaving Quillota, they went through the " Calle Largo," and took
the southern side of the valley, passing along the foot of the Mellacca
Hill, a smooth and rounded elevation, about three hundred feet in
height, and a mile and a half in circumference. This hill is covered
with a thin soil, formed from the decomposition of its own rocks. The
valley now narrows, and in some places is not more than a few hun-
dred feet in width. At about a league from Quillota, they ascended a
cuesta of the Quillota ridge, one thousand feet above the plain. On its
top, they were much gratified with the beautiful prospect. The fruitful
plain or vega of Aconcagua, varying in width from one to six miles,
extends to the west some twenty miles to the ocean, and is lost in the
other direction in the mountains ; it is watered by pure streams, and
covered with farm-houses and hamlets, surrounded by trees and vine-
yards. To the northeast are the Andes, heaped as it were on each
other, until the towering and distant peak of Tupongati, with its giant
form, crowns the whole. One feature of the plain was peculiar : the
mountains seemed to sink into it as if it were the ocean itselfl In
some cases the line was so well defined, that one foot could be placed

CHILI. 191

Shortly afterwards, it was suspected their peon was leading them
astray ; this was evident by their crossing and recrossing the river, and
wandering at random on a road which was apparently but little
travelled. After a toilsome route of three and a half hours, they found
themselves surrounded by many branches of the river, whose banks
were but a few inches above the water. The peon then acknowledged
himself bewildered, and that he had missed his way. Crossing the
streams was attended with some danger, for owing to their rapidity
and depth they were near sweeping the horses oft' their legs. Return-
ing a league or two, they fortunately met a muleteer, who put them in
the road ; but their horses were now so exhausted that they were
compelled to seek lodgings at arancho. After applying at several, they
succeeded in getting a place to lie in, after making many promises of
liberal payment. A similar course, notwithstanding a positive refusal
or denial of having any provisions, procured them a casuela, served in
a large wooden bowl, with wooden spoons. This is a sort of Chilian
chowder, with a plentiful supply of garlic, onions, Chili pepper, &c.,
and one of the favourite dishes of the country. In three days' ride
they had passed over about sixty miles ; the highest temperature expe-
rienced was 65-5°, the lowest 35-7°. At the rancho where they stopped
for the night, the temperature fell 20-5° in three hours.

They passed the night with the usual annoyance in most houses in
Chili, for fleas were found in great abundance. In the morning the
temperature was 35-5°, and the ground covered writh hoar frost. The
rancho was supposed to be about one hundred feet above the level of
the sea. The mountains in the immediate neighbourhood were from
six to seven thousand feet high, exhibiting a gorgeous appearance as
the sunbeams lighted them up, and at times the brilliancy was so great
as to dazzle the eye. They left the rancho at seven o'clock, and
although it was only ten miles distant, they did not reach San Felipe
before eleven. The road passed over a third cuesta, which exhibited
a regular columnar structure. The hills inclining to the northward
open and present to view the broad plain of Aconcagua. San Felipe
de Aconcagua stands about fifteen miles from the foot of the Andes,
and the mountains are seen from thence in all their grandeur. The
peak of Tupongati is, however, lost sight of as the town is approached,
disappearing behind the nearer snowy peaks. This mountain is situated
on the dividing or eastern ridge of the Cordilleras, and within the
United Provinces of La Plata.

On arriving at San Felipe, they proceeded at once to the house of
Mr. Henry Newman, an English gentleman resident there, and engaged
in mining operations, to whom they had letters. Mr. Newman was

192 CHILI.

not at home, but they were hospitably received by his lady, a native
of Chili, who treated them with great kindness and attention. In the
absence of her husband, she made them acquainted with an American
gentleman, a Mr. Chase, who happened to be on a visit there, from
Santiago. He had been in Chili since the failure of the expedition of
Carrera, when he, with several of his companions, settled in Chili, and
afterwards engaged in mining operations. He had several times
amassed a large property, and as often lost it, by the revolutions that
had taken place in the country. He is now engaged in working a silver
mine, in the vicinity of Santiago, and attempting the German process
of smelting, as there are vast quantities of ore, containing a large per
centage of silver, which have hitherto been neglected, from the imprac-
ticability of separating the silver by the usual method. There is now
only one survivor from among the thirty persons who settled in Chili
with Mr. Chase. From his operations he expects in a few years to
realize a large fortune.

The town of San Felipe is laid out with great regularity, in the
form of a square, surrounded by extensive alamedas, which are planted
with Lombardy poplars. Mr. Newman gave the population at from
twelve to thirteen thousand. In the centre of the town is a large open
square, one side of which is occupied by the town hall, and offices
connected with the muncipality. Opposite are the church and bar-
racks, and the remaining sides are occupied with shops and private
dwellings. The houses are all of one story, and are in a good style of
building. The better class of houses stand some distance back from
the street, and are decorated tastefully with paintings in fresco on the
walls. Roses and jessamines were seen in every court-yard, and the
gardens are well filled with various fruits, apples, peaches, pears,
grapes, pomegranates, oranges, lemons, and quinces; the latter are
remarkably fine, and in great plenty. The houses, as in other parts
of Chili, have no fire-places, in lieu of which they use brazeros, or
pans of live coal when heat is required. Mr. Chase took them to a
friend of his, to see the process of manufacturing the acida and aguar-
diente of the country. The whole process is carried on in a large
court behind the house. The grapes are brought in large baskets, or
on hand-barrows, made with poles and raw hide, and are emptied in
heaps, under an open shed. Here several small boards are placed, on
which the grapes are laid by the men, who separate them from the
stalks, by rolling them rapidly in their hands, the grapes falling along
the boards, which are inclined into a large vat, where they are trodden
out by men. The juice, which runs off through a rude strainer at one
end, is received into large earthen jars ; the pumice, or residuum, is

CHILI. 193

from time to time taken out of the vat, and placed on a platform, when
more juice is expressed, by laying boards and heavy stones upon it.
That part which is intended for wine proper, or the" must," is received
like the first into earthen jars, where it undergoes the requisite fermen-
tation, and receives a small quantity of brandy, or the aguardiente
of the country, to give it body. The chicha is made by boiling down
the clear grape-juice after fermentation, for several hours, over a slow
fire. After this process, it was put in enormous earthen jars, contain-
ning sixty to one hundred and twenty gallons, which are covered
over, and tightly luted. The portion not required for consumption,
is afterwards distilled with the pumice into aguardiente of the country.
The stills were of the simplest construction, being nothing more than a
number of large earthen pots, holding from eighty to one hundred
gallons, placed in the ground over a long narrow oven. Instead of a
worm, a straight pipe of copper is used, about twenty feet long ; one
of these was inserted into each pot or jar, and to effect the condensa-
tion, a stream of water from the river was led so as to pass over them.
All the agricultural implements are equally rude and primitive. The
I loughs are nothing more than a crooked stick, with the share-end
pointed, and hardened by charring. Notwithstanding these disadvan-
tages, they are enabled to raise large crops, and bring their farms
into tolerable condition.

In the evening they had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Newman, who
returned ; and his reception of his guests was, if possible, even more
kind than that of his good lady. Learning that our gentlemen wished
to visit some of the mines in the neighbourhood, he immediately made
arrangement to send his agent to his own establishment, five leagues
beyond San Felipe, and provided them horses and mules, in order that
their own might recruit for their return journey. The temperature at
San Felipe varied, between noon and 10 p. M, from 63° to 49°. The
night was remarkably clear and fine.

The next morning they started, with Mr. George Alderson, for the
mines, which are near the summit of the first Cordillera, on the
Mendoza road, and about three thousand feet above the level of the
sea. They were here informed, that in consequence of the late heavy
falls of snow, the roads were all covered and congealed, and that it
extended several thousand feet below the limit of perpetual snow.
They had no use for the neglected barometer, and had some satisfac-
tion in feeling they had not been troubled with it. About a league
from San Felipe they passed a large porphyritic mass, some specimens
broken from which contained grains of quartz. They then passed up
a singular gully, about twenty feet deep and as many wide, for about
VOL. i. 25

194 CHILI.

a league. On leaving the gully, they gradually ascended until they
reached the ranches at Jaquel, at the foot of the mountain where the
mines were situated. It being too late to make the ascent to the mines
that night, the running streams in the neighbourhood were visited, but
nothing was found. They were entirely destitute of fluviatile shells
and rnollusca. Other objects of interest were, however, obtained, in
the classes of insects and reptilia, which will be described in the
reports of these different departments. At sunset the snowy mountains
exhibited a magnificent sight ; lighted up and glistening in the sun-
shine, it appeared as though some tremendous conflagration had
broken out. After this, the progress of night produces a peculiar
effect. It was quite dark in the valley, while the lofty summits were
yet tinged by the setting sun. The limit of darkness was distinctly
seen advancing upwards like a dark wall, and as it ascended, peak
after peak became lost to view, until the whole was enshrouded in
obscurity.

The part of this valley where the ranches are situated is called La
Vega of Jaquel. This is the principal smelting-place, the ore being
brought here by mules from the foot of the mountain, down whose
sides it is thrown from the mines. The descent is about two thousand
feet, and very steep. Mr. Alderson stated that it took thirty seconds
for the ore to descend. The face of the mountain from long usage in
this way is worn quite smooth. The ranchos at the mine, about six
hundred feet below the summit, on the steep mountain side, are visible
from the smelting huts. The Jaquel valley is said to contain a few
sulphur springs, which are reported as poisonous. Our gentlemen had
not time to visit them. The temperature, before leaving San Felipe,
at six o'clock, A. M., was 45°, at 10 A. M., 54° ; at Jaquel, three hundred
feet above the sea, at 5h 30m, it was 55°, at 11 p. M. 51.°

Mr. Newman had previously lost much property here by the burning
of his whole establishment, excepting two buildings, fire having been
communicated to the thatched roof by the sparks from the furnace,
during a tornado that passed over. So rapidly had the flames spread,
that it was with difficulty that Mr. Newman and his agent saved their
lives. Besides the loss of buildings, a large quantity of machinery,
lately imported from England, was destroyed.

On the 21st May, they set out on mules for the mines, accompanied
by Mr. Alderson, and reached them about ten o'clock. Their first
act was to change their boots for a pair of raw-hide shoes, such as
are used by the miners, in order to insure a safer footing. They now
entered the principal gallery, which was about seven feet high and five
broad, excavated for about twenty yards horizontally ; it then divides

CHILI. 195

into several branches, and these again into others, from fifteen to
twenty yards in length.

The greatest extent of any one gallery is about thirty feet. The
mountain has been penetrated horizontally to about four hundred feet,
in the direction of northeast to east-northeast, as the veins run, and
vertically to a depth of about one hundred and fifty feet. Each person
was provided with a tallow candle, stuck in the end of a split stick
six feet long, and caution was given not to lose sight of the guide, for
the galleries, although small, are so numerous, and communicate with
each other so frequently, that a person might easily be lost.

The ladders, or rather posts, by which the descents are made, are
not a little dangerous. They are not all secured, so that it becomes
necessary for one person to hold the ladder whilst another descends,
and it causes no small uneasiness to see the foot of it resting on a
mere ledge. These shafts are at times crossed by a gallery, where
but a single post is laid over them, and the men pass over it by
steadying themselves against the side-wall. At the bottom of one of
the shafts, at about three hundred feet from the mouth of the mine, the
thermometer, after remaining for half an hour, stood at 52°, the air
outside being 56°. This may be considered a fair test of the tem-
perature. They report that they perceive no difference in the mine, in
winter and summer.

There appears to be little system in working the mines, and little
knowledge of the structure of the rock or the courses of the veins.
Mr. Alderson mentioned that a few months previously, they had been
working for several weeks, extending a shaft, without meeting a
particle of ore to repay their labour, and they were just about giving
up the search, when the mayoral, or master-workman, declaring he
would have a last blow for luck, struck the rock with all his force.
This detached a large fragment, and to their surprise and delight, laid
open a vein which proved the largest and richest that had been worked
for many years. From this it would appear that the employment is
attended with much uncertainty; and after exhausting one of these
treasure deposits, there are no means or signs known to them by which
they can ascertain the best direction to take to discover another.

This mine is situated in claystone, the sedimentary rock of the
region, where it is intersected by a dike of compact clinkstone. The
dike is about six feet wide. The adjoining claystone has a dark
greenish brown colour, and resembles a wacke. It is so much fissured
that it is difficult to break off a small piece which will present a fresh
surface. The green carbonate of copper, and silicious carbonate of

196 CHILI.

copper (chrysocolla), stain the rock for one hundred feet from the
vein, occupying the fissures, and giving the surface a green or bluish
tinge. In some places chrysocolla forms in small botryoidal incrusta-
tions on the face of the rock. The ores of copper occur in veins in
the claystone and the rock of this dike, but most abundantly near the
junction of the two rocks. The veins are very irregular, and are more
or less elongated. They are occasionally connected, but in the excava-
tions frequently run out. In order to discover new ones, they follow
the lines of the green carbonates, or the seams of calcareous spar and
quartz. The name of metal is given as a general term to all the ores,
that of quizo to the lode in which they are contained.

The ores contain more or less sulphur, and often a portion of arsenic.
Some silver is also occasionally mixed with the copper. Some of the
ores found at this mine have been very rich, yielding sixty-five to
seventy per cent, of pure copper. The average yield is about forty-
five per cent. The various qualities are denominated, metal-regio,
platiado, bronze, and piedra bruta. The last, as the name implies, is
worthless.

The mines, by the light of the numerous candles, exhibited all the
shades of green, blue, yellow, purple, bronze, &c., having a metallic
and lustrous appearance. The confined air, with the heat of so many
candles, made it quite oppressive ; and persons who have not often
visited mines, are subject to faintness and vertigo from this cause. Mr.
Alderson and Mr. Dana were both affected by it. It was the first time
the former had ever penetrated so far, Mr. Newman and himself being
governed by the report of the mayoral, and the ore brought up in their
operations. The miners were not a little astonished at our gentlemen
loading themselves, besides the specimens of ores, with the piedra
bruta, which they considered of no value. The manner of labour in
the mines is in as rude a state as it was found in the agricultural
branches of industry. A clumsy pick-axe, a short crowbar, a stone-
cutter's chisel, and an enormous oblong iron hammer, of twenty-five
pounds weight, were the only tools. The hammer is only used when
the ore is too high to be reached with the pick or crowbar. The
miners, from the constant exercise of their arms and chest, have them
well developed, and appear brawny figures. When the ore is too
tough to be removed by the ordinary methods, they blast it ofFin small
fragments, not daring to use large blasts, lest the rock should cave in
upon them. Only a few weeks previous to their visit, the mayoral,
while at the farthest end of the gallery, was alarmed by the rattling
down of some stones, and before he could retreat, the walls caved in

CHILI. 107

for several yards outside of where he was, leaving but a small space.
It required eighteen hours of unceasing effort by nearly a hundred men
to extricate him from his perilous situation.

The ore is brought to the mouth of the mine on the backs of men,
in sacks made of raw hide, and holding about one hundred pounds.
Whenever a sufficient quantity to load a drove of mules is extracted,
it is thrown down the mountain slide, and then carried to the furnace
at Jaquel. Only seventeen miners were employed ; previous to this
the number employed was one hundred. Whenever a richer vein was
struck a larger number were employed, who could always be easily
obtained by foreigners, the natives preferring to work for them, as
they say whatever the profits or losses may be, they are sure of being
regularly paid. The wages are small — from three to four dollars per
month, in addition to their food. They are allowed to draw a third
of their pay on the last Saturday of every month, and full settlement is
made twice a year. They are supplied with clothing and other
necessaries, out of which the agent makes a per centage, and which is
charged against their wages.

There is one admirable regulation of the Chilian government, that
of not permitting liquors to be brought within a league of any mine,
under a severe penalty, which is strictly enforced. The cost of the
maintenance of each workman is not great; they are allowed as
rations for breakfast four handfuls of dried figs, and the same of
walnuts : value about three cents. For dinner they have bread, and
fresh beef or pork. Small stores, as sugar and tea, they find them-
selves. One of the greatest inconveniences, and which is attended
with some expense, is the supply of the miners with water, which has
to be brought up the mountains.

The miners' huts are the last dwellings on the Chilian side of the
Andes. Mr. Alderson mentioned, that in five hours' ride from thence,
a lake was reported to exist, three leagues in circumference, on the
summit of a conical mountain, which is surrounded by a beach of
sand and gravel, and has no outlet. Several persons confirmed this
statement as to the existence of the lake, that it had no visible outlet,
and that the water was always at the same level. Although desirous
of visiting so interesting a spot, they found they had not time left to
accomplish it. They therefore determined, instead, to make a visit to
the coal-mine which was reported as existing about two leagues farther
on the Cordilleras. They reached this in about three hours. Leaving
their mules, they scrambled up the face of a cliff for some two hundred
feet, where some fragments of coal, more, however, resembling lignite,
and retaining perfectly the structure of the original wood, were found.

198 CHILI.

Other pieces had the form of coal, and on ignition burned quite freely,
showing the presence of bitumen and sulphur. The last was always
found in small lumps, resembling the siftings of coal, and was em-
bedded in a friable earth, containing saltpetre. No coal was found in
situ; their time did not admit of any extended examination. Coal
would indeed be a most valuable discovery for the Chilian mines,
where wood is so scarce that they are prevented from reducing the
ore, and in consequence, as I have before remarked, they are obliged
to send it to Valparaiso for shipment. The principal ores which the
mine of Mr. Newman affords, are the vitreous, gray, and variegated
copper. Copper pyrites and the red oxide of copper, also occur, and
the silicious carbonate (chrysocolla) is abundantly disseminated through
the rocks. These ores are generally massive, or exhibit only imperfect
traces of crystallization. Native copper is rarely found at this mine.
Its occurrence is not welcomed by the miners, as they consider it a
sure sign that the vein will soon run out. It is usually found with
large quantities of red oxide of copper. According to Mr. Dana, this
would seem to indicate that the native copper and red oxide have
originated from the reduction of other ores by heat, and this would
account for the above fact, which seems to be well established among
miners.

Copper ores occur sparingly at other localities in this part of Chili;
the valuable mines are chiefly confined to the northern provinces.

After again returning to Jaquel, they mounted their horses, and
reached San Felipe, in about two hours' hard gallop. The temperature
during the day varied from 44° at six o'clock in the morning, at
Jaquel, to 58° at noon, on the hill at the mines ; and at 10 p. M., at San
Felipe, it was at 47°.

On the 22d, they set out on their return, after a good deal of delay,
owing to the stupidity of their peon, who had indulged too much in
his favourite chicha. Nothing could exceed the kindness and attention
shown them by Mr. Newman, his lady, and Mr. Chase. Mr. Alderson,
the agent, devoted himself to them for two days, during which time he
left nothing undone that could promote and forward the object of their
visit. It affords me great pleasure to bear testimony also to the
numerous fine specimens of copper, &c., from other mines, which Mr.
Newman presented to the Expedition, and to return him our thanks for
them and the kind attention of his lady. Our gentlemen returned to the
rancho of Evangelisto Celidono, where they passed the night, and were
furnished with a like casuela as before. All the farmers they met
wrere a simple, good-hearted set, caring for little beyond their own
immediate neighbourhood, and knowing little but to supply their own

C H I L I. 199

wants. Celidono informed them that he had been at the Port (Val-
paraiso) only once in five years. He seems to have all that is needful.
His wife was engaged in spinning with the distaff and spindle. There
being but one room, they were accommodated on the clay floor, spread
with their pillions and saddle-cloths, while Celidono and his wife occu-
pied the bed. The temperature varied from 65-30° on their arrival, at
5h 30m, to 53°, at 1 1 P. M.

On the morning of the 24th, the thermometer stood at 51°, on the
summit of the cuesta, and at 58° between nine and ten o'clock. Here the
scene was very different from what they had before witnessed. The
plain they had just left was in broad sunshine, showing distinctly its
many cultivated farms; that to which they were about descending was
a sea of dense white clouds, extending seaward as far as the eye could
reach, as though a vast body of white cumuli had descended and filled
the whole extent of the Quillota valley. These clouds kept rolling off
towards the sea, before the light wind, and rose gradually as they passed
off. They reached Mr. Blanchard's, at Quillota, at noon, when the
temperature was 60°, and taking their biloche, they arrived at Val-
paraiso in the evening.

Having heard much about the rise of the coast, from the effects of
earthquakes, I was desirous of gaining all the information in relation to
this subject. From the residents, the accounts are so contradictory,
that no correct intelligence can be obtained. The decrease in the
depth of the bay, I have before said, can be accounted for, and
undoubtedly is owing, so far as it has taken place, to the wash of the
hills ; and the formation of a new street which has been reclaimed from
the bay, has given rise to the idea, and it is pointed out as having been
built upon ground left dry by the earthquake of 1832. Several of our
naturalists made a close examination of the coast in the neighbourhood,
the result of which on the minds of all was, that there was no proof of
elevation. That changes in the beaches, through the agency of the
heavy rollers and the northers that yearly occur, are constantly going
on, is quite evident ; but these, as one would naturally suppose, increase
the shore only in some places, while in others they are wearing it
away.

Earthquakes do not appear to happen at any particular season.
The great one of 1730 was in July ; that of 1751, in May; and those
of 1822 and 1835, both of which did much damage, in February.

Slight shocks of earthquakes arc experienced very frequently through-
out Chili. One during our stay, on the 28th of May, started every one
from their beds, but the shock was not repeated. No peculiar state of
the weather, or other phenomenon, seems to precede them. That of

200 CHILI.

1835 nearly destroyed the towns of Concepcion, Talcahuana, Arauco,
Angeles, Coluna, Chillian, Talea, and Cauquenes. It was very slightly
felt in Valparaiso, and scarcely at all farther north. The sea receded in
Valparaiso two feet, and returned immediately. The ground seemed
to swell under the feet. In Juan Fernandez, it was very severely
felt ; and the following extract from the report of the then governor of
that island, to the supreme government, is interesting. " I was walking,
at the Castle of Santa Barbara, with the commandant of the garrison,
when we suddenly observed that the sea had come over the mole.
Fearing great damage, I hastened to have the boats drawn from under
a shed, and prepared for use. At the same moment we heard a loud
roaring, as of thunder, and saw a white column, like smoke, rise from
the sea, a short distance from the place called ' El Punto de Bacallao?
and then felt the earth move. The sea retired about two hundred
feet, when it commenced returning with great violence. This time it
carried nearly every thing with it; broke down all the houses and
huts but the one recently built of stone and mortar to contain pro-
visions. Happily, this withstood its violence, although the water
ascended more than six feet up its sides. It then retired again to its
usual height. Constant shocks were felt during the night ; and the sea,
at the place before mentioned, continued throwing up water and
smoke like a volcano."

Chili abounds with volcanic mountains, but few of them are in an
active state of eruption ; which may account for the frequency of
earthquakes. The peak of Tupongati is the only one in activity in
this section. Our travellers to the Cordilleras were not fortunate
enough to get a sight of it at night.

Although by the constitution the Catholic religion is the established
one, yet they have become so far enlightened as to tolerate that of the
Protestant Episcopal form. A license could not be given to build a
church, but the authorities, on being asked if the worship would be
permitted, readily gave an assurance that it would not be interfered
with ; that although they could not allow a church to be put up, there
could be no objection to their worshipping in a private dwelling.
Since then, a very convenient room has been prepared, and a resident
chaplain, Mr. Rowlandson, has been called, who officiates regularly
on the Sabbath. The effect that it has produced on the habits of the
foreign residents, of whom there are about three hundred, is marked.
About one hundred and eighty of them are constant attendants on the
service.

What is somewhat remarkable, the person most in favour of tolera-
tion and building a church, is the priest of Valparaiso ; and the only

CHILI. 201

vote recorded for toleration, on the adoption of the constitution, was
given by a Catholic bishop.

The influence of the clergy is great, and they have much political
power in the state. The people may generally be called bigoted, and
under the control of the priests. The clergy as a body stand very
fair ; they encourage schools. The inhabitants are ignorant as yet ;
their opportunities for instruction are limited. There is no impediment
in the way of Protestants teaching.

Although it may be somewhat trite to mention it, yet one cannot
but admire the sight of the Oration, or sunset prayer. Whatever may
be our idea of Catholic worship, no one can witness it here without
feeling the solemn and impressive scene of a whole community, on the
striking of the evening bells, instantly stopping employment, both
within and without doors, and uncovering their heads to offer up their
thanks or prayer for a few minutes. It must bring reflection, unless
habit so blunts the mind and feeling as to make it callous to impres-
sions well calculated to make men consider their evil ways, and feel
thankful for the blessings they enjoy.

The commerce of Chili is increasing rapidly. Valparaiso numbers
sixty coasting vessels, of from fifty to three hundred and fifty tons,
part of which are engaged in the trade from Valdivia and Chiloe to
the northern ports, with timber and staves ; and part are charged from
Maule and Concepcion with grain, returning in ballast to Valparaiso,
to load with foreign manufactures for the various ports of the republic.
The exports are taken away in foreign vessels, and consist of copper*
hides, wool, hemp, and plata pifia. About sixty thousand quintals of
copper are exported from Huasco, Coquimbo, and Valparaiso annually ;
one hundred and fifty to two hundred thousand quintals of 100 Ibs. in
copper ores are shipped annually to England, and one hundred
thousand marks of 8 oz. in bar silver. The returns from sales of
English goods are made mostly in bullion.

Thirty thousand hides are exported, principally from Valparaiso.
Five to six hundred quintals of wool are shipped annually from Con-
cepcion. The grain and country produce are generally sent to Peru
and Guayaquil. Very little silver is coined in the country, dollars
being an article of merchandise, worth from seven to nine per cent.,
according to the supplies from Bolivia or Peru. From eight hundred
thousand to one million silver dollars come annually from Cobija to.
Valparaiso, and are shipped thence to England. Gold coins are issued
from the mint at Santiago, doubloons, half, quarter, and eighth doubloon
pieces ; the current value of the ounce is seventeen dollars twenty-five
cents.

VOL. i. 26

202 CHILI.

The annual imports into Chili and Peru have averaged —

From England, $6,000,000

" the United States, 1,500,000

" France, 600,000

" Germany, 500,000

" other quarters, ...... 2,000,000

Total, $10,600,000

The returns from Chili are in —

Copper and copper ore, $2,000,000

Bullion, ... 1,800,000

Hides, wheat, hemp, wool, ..... 700,000
Bullion and dollars, received in payment for goods
sold for other ports, and transported to Valparaiso,

for United States and Europe, .... 1,700,000

Total, 86,200,000

The revenue of the government is largest from commerce :

The custom-house receipts are rully . . . $1,000,000

Tobacco and wines, monopolies of government, . 400,000

Diezmos, or tithes, .... . 600,000

Alcavales, or internal sources of revenue, . . 200,000

Making a total of $2,200,000

The ordinary expenditure is about $1,800,000.

The number of foreign vessels employed in the trade is about two
hundred and seventy, the same vessels arriving generally twice. They
are of the following nations :

English, 90

American, .......... 80

French, 70

Hamburg, Dutch, and Sardinian, 20

Mexico, Colombia, and Sandwich Islands, .... 10

Total, 270

The population of Chili may be estimated at one million two hun-
dred thousand.

Santiago contains about sixty thousand inhabitants, and is one of the
few South American capitals, perhaps the only one, that is increasing
in wealth and population. It has various private seminaries for both
sexes, a national institute or college, on a liberal footing, an extensive
hospital, a medical college, and a military academy. The Congress
meets on the 1st of June, every year, when the President delivers his
message.

CHILI. 201

Valparaiso numbers thirty thousand inhabitants, and is one of the
most flourishing seaports in the world. Its population has quintupled
within the last twenty years, and it is rapidly advancing in every
improvement, growing out of an increasing foreign commerce, and
the enterprise of its inhabitants, fostered and encouraged as they are
by government.

The mining districts are to the north, and the grain country to the
south. Extensive flour-mills are now at work in Concepcion and its
neighbourhood : the machinery is brought from the United States.

The recognised internal national debt is about $2,000,000, of which
sum $800,000 is consolidated, bearing an annual interest of from two
to six per cent. The government was about to consolidate the re-
mainder, when their attention was called to other expenses abroad.
The foreign debt is a loan from England, taken in 1822, of £1,000,000,
with the interest now due, will not fall far short of 88,000,000.

There is very little variation in the climate. During what is called
the winter, when the rains prevail, between the 1st of May and the 1st
of September, the thermometer occasionally falls for a few hours to
52°, but the mean of it throughout the year, at mid-day, would be 65°.
During the dry season, from September to May, the thermometer at
times reaches 78° to 80°. In the evening and morning, it is at 60°.

Fruits are abundant in their season : apples, pears, apricots, necta-
rines, plums, peaches, cherries, &c. ; figs, grapes, strawberries, oranges,
limes, and every variety of vegetable.

The present administration is composed of

General Joaquim Prieto, President : term of office five years ; eligible
for a second, but not a third successive term.

Don Joaquim Torconal, Minister of Foreign Relations, and Acting
Minister of the Hacienda, or Treasury.

Don Ramen Cavareda, Minister of War and Marine.

Don Mariano Egano, Minister of the Interior and Justice.

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL.

The President of the Supreme Court of Justice,

The President of the High Court of Appeals,

The Reverend Bishop of Santiago, and Apostolic Vicar,

A General of Division,

The Minister of the Estanco, or Government Monopolies,

Two Ex-Ministers,

Two Judge.1?, and

A Secretary of the Council.

201 CHILI.

THE SENATE

Consists of nineteen members, elected for five years, representing
ten provinces.

THE HOUSE OF DEPUTIES

Consists of eighty-two members, elected for three years, representing
thirty-five departments.

Foreigners require ten years' residence to obtain citizenship, if
unmarried ; six years, if married ; three years, if married to Chilenos.

According to present calculation, the militia force of the republic
reaches forty-five thousand : forty battalions of infantry, eighty
squadrons of cavalry, and eleven companies of artillery.

THE ARMY,

Agreeably to the constitution, in time of peace consists of three
thousand men : eight companies of foot and horse-artillery, two regi-
ments of cavalry, and three battalions of infantry.

»

OFFICERS.

•

One Major-General,
Eight Colonels,
Twenty Lieutenant-Colonels,
Twenty-five Majors,
Thirty-four Captains,
Nine Adjutants,
Twenty-one Lieutenants,
Sixteen Sub-Lieutenants,
Two Surgeons-in-chief.

THE NAVY

Consists of the Brig Achilles, twenty guns ; Schooner Colocolo,
eight guns.

OFFICERS.

One Post-Captain,

Two Commanders,

One Lieutenant of Marines,

Three Pursers.

The late war with Peru has increased both the army and navy to

CHILI. 205

the following, in round numbers : eight thousand troops, six thousand
of whom are still in Peru, but about to return ; two thousand in Chili,
with officers complete, all under the command of General Bulnes,
nephew of the President.

The navy, increased by capture and purchase, consists of, and now
in service, four ships, two brigs, two schooners, and a new forty-four
gun frigate, expected daily from France.

During the time of our visit, June, 1839, the President, in his message,
resigned the extraordinary powers conferred upon him, and recom-
mended a reduction of the army to a peace establishment. Since that
time he has been succeeded by his nephew, General Bulnes, who from all
accounts retains the high reputation and popularity he gained in Peru.
From G. G. Hobson, Esq., United States' Consul at Valparaiso, and
our countrymen resident there, we received every kindness and
assistance, and from them we derived much information respecting
the country. To the former I feel myself under many obligations for
his great kindnesses, and the attention he gave to our business, the warm
interest he took in the Expedition, and the manner in which he for-
warded our views, and aided in procuring the necessary supplies.
To him I feel bound to acknowledge my indebtedness for much
valuable information, and the many agreeable hours spent in his family
will long be remembered. He not only stands deservedly high with
our countrymen, but has the respect and high consideration of the
Chilian government. An American cannot but feel proud of such a
representative abroad.

Our departure from Valparaiso was delayed for some days, owing
to the non-arrival of the Sea-Gull, and the prevalence of north winds
and calms, together with fogs. These often prevent vessels from
sailing in the winter season.

During this time, one morning as the fogs lifted, a brig" was disco-
vered in a dangerous situation near the beach of Concon ; boats were
immediately despatched to her relief; she proved to be the English
brig Superior ; the master was found dead drunk on his cabin-floor !
She was towed to the anchorage, and placed in safety.

Lieutenant Craven was left at Valparaiso, to take command of the
Sea-Gull when she should arrive. After a delay there of some months,
he joined the Pacific Squadron, and was transferred to the Schooner
Boxer, Lieutenant-Commandant Nicholson, which vessel made strict
search for the Sea-Gull in all the places she could have possibly met
with disaster, in conformity to the orders of Captain Clack, then in
command of the Pacific Squadron.

I cannot resist the opportunity when speaking of Lieutenant Craven,

206 CHILI.

to refer to his praiseworthy conduct in being instrumental in saving the
crew of the Chilian vessel of war, the Monteguedo, that came near
being lost. By his exertions, seconded as they were by the officers of
H. B. M. ship Fly, they were rescued from a watery grave. It gave
me great pleasure some time afterwards to receive the highly compli-
mentary notice of it by the Hon. J. K. Paulding, then Secretary of the
Navy, which will be found included in Appendix XXXIV.

On the 17th of May, the United States' ship Falmouth, Captain
M'Keever, arrived from Callao ; and it is with much satisfaction and
pleasure I refer to rny meeting and acquaintance with this officer,
whose liberal views, and the aid rendered the Expedition, were of
essential service in forwarding our duties. The manner in which the
aid was given, rendered it doubly welcome.

As before mentioned, the Flying-Fish arrived on the J9th, having
left Orange Harbour on the 28th of April, in company with the Sea-
Gull. At midnight, the Sea-Gull was last seen. Shortly afterwards,
it began to blow in strong squalls, and rapidly increased to a gale ; by
half-past eight of the 29th, it was " blowing furiously." At one
o'clock, False Cape Horn was made under the lee, when Passed
Midshipman Knox determined to run for a harbour. At 4 p. M. they
anchored under the south point of Scapenham Bay, where they dragged
their anchors, and were obliged to remove to Orange Bay. There
they anchored, and rode out the remainder of the gale, which lasted
with violence until the morning of the 1st of May, on which day they
again took their departure, and shortly afterwards fell in with a
whaler, who seemed not a little surprised to find a New York pilot-boat
off the Cape, and to have an interrogatory put to him, to know if he
wanted a Cape pilot.

Although I felt some uneasiness about the Sea-Gull, I did not appre-
hend that she had met with accident. The time that has since elapsed,
and the careful search that was made, leaves no doubt of her loss, and
a strong belief that all on board perished in that gale. Nothing since
that time has been heard of her. How, or in what way, disaster
happened to her, it is impossible to conjecture. I had the greatest con-
fidence in the officers who had charge of her ; they were both well
acquainted with the management of the vessel. Their loss and that
of the vessel, were a great disadvantage to the Expedition, which was
felt by me during the remainder of the cruise, these vessels being well
calculated for the southern seas, particularly in the low latitudes, though
much exposed in boisterous weather.

They were principally intended to be engaged with the boats in
surveying operations, and were well adapted to that service.

CHILI. 207

Messrs. Reid and Bacon were among the most promising young
officers in the squadron, and I was extremely well satisfied with thj
performance of their duty in the vessel. The crew consisted of fifteen
persons.

Passed Midshipman James W. E. Reid was the son of the late
Governor Reid of Florida. He was a native of Georgia, and entered
the service in September, 1831. He was ordered to the Exploring
Expedition in 1837, and appointed to the command of the Sea-Gull,
one of the tenders attached to the Expedition, previous to sailing, in
August, 1838.

Passed Midshipman Frederick A. Bacon, entered the service in
May, 1832. He was a native of the State of Connecticut, where his
highly respectable relatives reside. He joined the Expedition in 1838,
and was attached to the Sea-Gull, previous to leaving the United
States.

Both of these young officers brought with them into the Expedition a
high character, and, during the short period which they were attached
to it, they were distinguished for their devotedness to the arduous
service in which we were engaged. Their deportment was that of
ardent and zealous officers, and of upright and correct gentlemen.
Mr. Bacon left a widow and one child.

In the family of Mr. Reid there has been a remarkable fatality
during our absence. His respectable father, the Governor of Florida,
and three or four other members of his family, have since died.

During our stay at Valparaiso, the Chilian army was daily ex-
pected to arrive from Peru, and all were rejoicing over its success.
All opposition to the existing administration had died away. The
manner in which the government of General Prieto had carried
through its plans, both of war and peace, had met with the appro-
bation of all parties. One of the first acts of the government was to
restore to their ranks, Generals Pinto, Borgono, and others, whose
conduct had been extremely praiseworthy, though opposed to the
government for the last eight years. They, although believing
themselves ill used by it, discouraged all attempts at revolution, pre-
ferring to suffer themselves, rather than be instrumental in producing
changes. Attention was now paid to the building of custom-houses,
and other public works at Valparaiso, and elsewhere. The whole
seemed to have given a fresh impulse to every thing in Chili. Those
who had been at all doubtful of the stability of the government, lost
their fears, and became its warmest supporters, while happiness and
joy seemed to reign every where.

The Congress met on the 1st of June, when the President delivered

208

CHILI.

his annual message, resigning the extraordinary powers with which he
had been clothed in January, 1837. All Chili will bear testimony,
foreigners as well as native born, that in no one instance has he
abused them, but so conducted himself, and his administration, as to
entitle him to the thanks and rewards of a grateful country.

Chili, with such rulers, and so moderate and energetic a government,
must rise rapidly in the scale of nations.

CHAPTER XL

CONTENTS.

WANT OF CORRECT HISTORICAL RECORDS— O'HIGGINS DECLARED SUPREME DICTA-
TOR—RESIGNS IN 1823— COUNCIL OF STATE APPOINTED— GENERAL FREYRE LANDS
AT VALPARAISO— ARREST OF O'HIGGINS— HIS RELEASE— GENERAL RAMON FREYRE
ASSUMES THE GOVERNMENT — RETIRES TO PRIVATE LIFE — ADMIRAL BLANCO
PRESIDENT— BLANCO RESIGNS— SUCCEEDED BY VICE-PRESIDENT— HIS RESIGNATION—
FREYRE AGAIN CHOSEN PRESIDENT— FREYRE RESIGNS— PRIETO BECOMES PRESIDENT
—RESIGNS— PRESIDENT OF THE SENATE ACTS— ELECTION HELD— PRIETO ELECTED—
REFUSES TO SERVE— VICUNEA PRESIDENT OF SENATE— TROUBLES- JUNTA APPOINTED
—CIVIL WAR— ABANDONMENT OF THE CAPITAL— FREYRE CALLED IN— JOINS THE PRE-
SIDENTS PARTY— BATTLE OF LIRCAI, APRIL, 1630— DEFEAT OF FREYRE— HIS BANISH-
MENT TO PERU— NEW ELECTION— DON FRANCISCO TAGLE RETURNED AS PRESIDENT
— OVALLE AS VICE-PRESIDENT— BOTH RESIGN— PRESIDENT OF SENATE AGAIN ACTS-
NEW ELECTION— GENERAL PRIETO ELECTED, JULY, 1831— STATE OF THE COUNTRY—
HIS ADMINISTRATION— DIEGO PORT ALES— SYSTEM OF REFORM— MILITIA SYSTEM —
ESTABLISHES PUBLIC CREDIT— CIVIL RULE— TRANSACTIONS WITH PERU— RATIFICA-
TION OF TREATY, AND RECEPTION OF MINISTER— CIVIL WAR IN PERU— DEFEAT OF
SALAVERRY— NEW ORGANIZATION OF PERUVIAN GOVERNMENT— RUPTURE BETWEEN
CHILI AND PERU— SECRET EXPEDITION UNDER GENERAL FREYRE — INTELLIGENCE
OF IT RECEIVED IN CHILI — ACTIVITY OF GOVERNMENT — CAPTURE OF FREYRE—
HIS SECOND BANISHMENT — POPULARITY OF THE ADMINISTRATION — SEIZURE OF
PERUVIAN VESSELS — SUSPENSION OF HOSTILITIES — CONVENTION — CHILI REFUSES
TO RATIFY THE PROCEEDINGS — CHILI SENDS HER FLEET — CHILI DECLARES WAR
— EXPEDITION ORGANIZED — DECREE OF PRESIDENT PRIETO — EXPEDITION FITTED
OUT UNDER ADMIRAL BLANCO — TROOPS QUARTERED AT aUILLOT A — PORT ALES'
INSPECTION OF TROOPS — HIS ARREST— VIDAURRE'S MUTINY— ACT A OF OFFICERS —
NEWS REACHES VALPARAISO— CONSTERNATION— CONDUCT OF MILITIA— VIDAURRE'S
DEMANDS — PORTALES' NOBLE CONDUCT — VIDAURRE'S ATTACK ON VALPARAISO —
HIS DEFEAT AND FLIGHT— PORTALES' DEATH— VIDAURRE CAPTURED AND BROUGHT
TO VALPARAISO — TRIAL AND EXECUTION — EXPEDITION SAILS TO PERU — ITS
FAILURE — TREATY OF PAUCARPATA — EXPEDITION RETURNS — BLANCO DEPRIVED
OF HIS COMMAND— BULNES— NEW EXPEDITION— ITS DEPARTURE.

CHAPTER XL

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.
1839.

OF the early political history of Chili, we found it difficult to obtain
any correct information. There is no publication existing at this date,
which furnishes any satisfactory account of the republic in its first
struggles to establish itself.

Nearly all the principal actors in its busy scenes are yet living, and
not so advanced in age, but they entertain hopes of a change from day
to day, that may restore them to power and importance. These,
together with the factions that were connected with them, watch with
anxiety every turn of public opinion; and with one or the other of
them, most of the educated Chilians, who alone are capable of giving
an account, are more or less identified.

For this reason, only partial statements can be obtained from any of
them. Those who keep aloof from party, are too timid to express any
opinion on political subjects, as it might involve them in difficulty.
The few foreigners whose long residence in the country would enable
them to furnish facts, are so biassed by their prejudices towards
different administrations, that no dependence can be placed upon their
statements. The inequality of rule of the Chilian administrations
makes it difficult to follow their history, and one is left to the barren
sources of information afforded by government proclamations, and the
official reports of the day, always more or less erroneous and exagge-
rated, in favour of the ruling party. Under these difficulties, it will not
be surprising if the following outline of its history for the last twenty
years, should in a few particulars be erroneous; it is, however, believed
to be correct, having been drawn from sources that are most to be
relied on and entitled to credit, and that were at the time attainable.

After the battle of Chacabuco and Maypo, in which O'Higgins

(211)

212 POLITICAL HISTORY OF C II ILL

commanded, he was unanimously proclaimed Supreme Director of
Chili, in April, 1817. He continued to fill the situation until 1823,
when, in consequence of his allowing great abuses to exist in the
subordinate branches of government, and not listening to the respectful
remonstrances sent him from all quarters of the country, a meeting of
the principal inhabitants of the capital and neighbourhood took place
at the town hall.

The subject was discussed freely, and his deposition was determined
upon. It was agreed, however, to notify him, for few men were more
esteemed than O'Higgins. He received the commission courteously,
and when satisfied that they really expressed the voice of the people,
he without hesitation resigned his power, and departed for Valparaiso,
with the intention of proceeding to Peru. A council of state was
named by the assembly at Santiago, composed of three distinguished
citizens, until the supreme power could be disposed of.

When O'Higgins arrived in Valparaiso, he found General Ramon
Freyre had landed from Concepcion, with three hundred men, having
come up from the south to depose him.

Although the latter was no longer in his way, he arrested him on
the plea of making him give an account of his administration. This
step was not popular. The Junta in Santiago directed his release, and
ordered Freyre to furnish him with the necessary passport. This was
done in the most complimentary manner ; and this distinguished
individual, admitted by all to be the first soldier of his country, de-
parted for Peru, without complaint. There honours were showered
upon him as testimonials of his worth, and what was far better, the
Peruvian government gave him a hacienda.

He still lives in Lima, respected by every one, not having engaged
in politics since his retirement from Chili. He has been invited back,
but refuses to come. He was succeeded by Ramon Freyre, considered
as the champion of liberal institutions, who was named Supreme
Director and Captain-General, 31st March, 1823. He resigned in
July, 1820, retiring to private life, after a popular rule. His opposition
to O'Higgins is justified by its being said that he was left to perish
from want of supplies to his troops on the frontier. Though he had
been constant in his representations of the fact to O'Higgins, he had
been neglected, and was compelled to appear himself and claim
attention. There is believed to be much truth in this — O'Higgins
having many corrupt creatures about him, who are said to have been
the cause of it. Freyre is much respected, though not considered a
man of talent. He never mixed in public life after the resignation of
his dictatorship, unless when called on as a mediator.

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI. 213

Admiral Blanco was next named President by the Congress then
in session, and Don Augustin Azyguine Vice-President. Blanco was
one of the vainest of men. Fortunately for the country, he was so
much mortified at the opposition shown to some of his fancies, that he
resigned, two months and three days after his appointment. The
Vice-President succeeded him. Such dissensions, however, prevailed,
that he also became disgusted and resigned. Pinto was charged with
the presidency, which he exercised from the 5th of May, 1827, till
14th July, 1829, when, on the plea of ill health, he resigned, and went
to his estate.

In conformity with a law of 1826, the President of the Senate acted
as president until the middle of October, when the elections took place,
and General Pinto was returned to the office. During his acting
presidency, two military revolts had occurred, and the country was
full of factions. As the elections to Congress were considered to have
been illegally conducted, the general opposition to its measures was
ascribed to that cause. Pinto, therefore, on being elected, informed
them, that he would only accept on condition that the Congress should
be dissolved, and that new elections, according to the constitution,
should take place. They did not concur in this, when he declined
occupying the office, and it went begging again. Vicunea, President of
the Senate, entered upon the duties of President ; the clamours through-
out the country increased ; the whole population was in movement, a
party behind pushing it on. Town meetings were held, and repre-
sentatives sent to Santiago.

The government refused to receive their committee, and on this
being communicated to the meeting, a junta gobernativa was ap-
pointed, and the country was pronounced to be against the Congress,
as an unconstitutional body. Collecting a great number of all classes,
they again went to the President's house, and found he had set out in
the night, with all his ministers, for Valparaiso. The greatest confu-
sion prevailed in the capital ; orders were received at the public offices
from the Junta and from the acting President, both claiming to be
representatives of the people. In the mean time, the southern army,
under General Prieto, approached the city. It had declared for the
Junta. The troops in the city, under General Lastra, considered
themselves subject to the order of the President for the time. The
armies met on the field of Ochagavia, and the first blood in civil war
was shed. Both parties claimed the victory, after a sharp contest. A
convention w7as, however, entered into, and Freyre was again called
forward, to aid in restoring tranquillity to the country. Nothing
satisfactory grew out of this arrangement. Freyre became disgusted

214 POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

at some non-compliance with his orders as captain-general; but
ins-tead of returning to his family, started off to join the party of the
President in Valparaiso, setting himself in opposition to the Junta, and
calling upon all the officers to join him. Unfortunately, some of the
foreign officers did so. He embarked from Coquimbo with troops,
and thence proceeded to the south, landed, and was met at Lircai by
General Prieto's army, on the 17th April, 1830, when Freyre was
entirely defeated. This offence resulted in his banishment. Most of
the foreign officers were killed ; it is said, after they had surrendered.

The elections now went forward ; Don Francesco Tagle was re-
turned President, and Don Tomas Ovalle as Vice-President : both ex-
tensive land proprietors and respectable men. The first soon resigned,
and Ovalle exercised the honour but a short time, dying soon after his
accession. The President of the Senate acted until elections were
again held, when General Prieto was returned President, July 14th,
1831, and continued to hold the office at the time of our visit.

It appears throughout the history of the different administrations
which have ruled the country since its separation from Spain, that all
have been directed by a common spirit of advancement to the country.
All their decrees prove this, and under any one of them, had they
retained power but a few successive years, it would have prospered.
As the people of Chili (that is to say, the mass of the population,) are
proverbial for their apathy, and disposed to submit to authority without
questioning its origin, the main error of the early administrations was
their extensive lenity towards political offenders, whose turbulent spirit
and restless ambition no clemency checked. The impunity with which
such disorganizers returned to their intrigues after repeated pardons,
and the too liberal, or, more properly speaking, visionary schemes of
government, no doubt operated to produce the sudden and frequent
changes of government, before any one of them had had time to
mature plans of improvement or organize a system of legislation, or a
mode for the proper administration of laws. A want of energy and
resolution of purpose encouraged factions to hope for success in their
attempts to gain the ascendency. Imaginary abuses were charged
home against each successive ruler, and the country was a prey to
convulsions. This state of affairs prevailed in a greater or less degree
till 1831, when the present administration came into power. Its course
was totally different from its predecessors. It adopted at once the
most energetic measures to establish order ; introduced a necessary
severity, which produced a hue and cry against it, in the country. Bui
i', was not diverted from its purpose. It went on reforming abuses.
nipping revolution in its bud, and banishing the most refractory; by a

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI. 215

salutary terror awed the many factions, and pursued vigorously its
career of improvement in every branch of government. No one felt
disposed to give it credit. All its acts were ascribed to one or other
of the former parties. Every one spoke of them as being proposed,
projected, or introduced by O'Higgins, Freyre, or Pinto, forgetting
that their good intentions were never carried out, and that it was the
abuses permitted by them that led to civil war. The present adminis-
tration proved itself fit to rule. It wielded its power energetically but
beneficially. Its vigilance never slept ; and the parties which occa-
sionally showed symptoms of movement, have at last made up their
minds to come into the fold of good citizens.

The actual president at the time of our visit, was General Joaquim
Prieto, a man of umblemished private character, full of benevolence,
but who, no doubt, had he been left to the direction of his own feel-
ings and judgment, at several periods of his official career, would by
his mistaken lenity have brought upon his government the fate of all
the preceding ones. Fortunately for the lovers of order, he had for
several years to aid him, as minister of war and the interior, Diego
Portales, one of those master spirits a country but rarely produces ; a
man whose early life was engaged in commerce, but who, in the pro-
gress of revolutions, evincing more than ordinary ability, became a
prominent politician, and eventually one of the leading men of the
country. From his resolute and unbending temper, he was permitted
to become the head of a party, and soon gained such an ascendency,
that they abandoned themselves to his guidance. He might have
obtained the presidency, had ordinary ambition directed him ; but,
impelled by a more noble one, he chose to attach himself to the ad-
ministration as one of its ministers, in order, as subsequent events
proved, that he might be better able to carry out the plans he medi-
tated. He possessed a resolution in his political career which never
swerved from what he conceived his duty, or what he thought the
interests of his country required. He had the unyielding temper of
a reformer ; and never was one more wanted in any country. He
recommended the establishment of a militia system, with a view to
check every future military interference in the government ; and when
it was opposed, on the ground that it would only endanger the peace
of the country to place arms in the hands of the people, he answered,
" No ! depend upon it, the only way to secure permanent order, is to
create a power in the people which may be enlisted on their side; and
if this should declare against the government, it would be evidence
enough that it ought no longer to rule, for such a power should consist
of the best portion of the population of the country. The first object

216 POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

must be to counteract military influence ; for it too frequently happens
amongst us, that when we make a colonel, and give him a regiment,
his aspirations soon extend to supreme command."

His counsel was listened to : a militia system was organized ; the
army was reduced ; numerous generals and other officers were struck
oft" the list ; the number of civil officers in the various departments was
diminished, salaries cut down, and the most rigid economy observed in
every branch of the government. Setting an example of unwearied
industry in the discharge of his duties, he exacted from those under
him a strict performance of theirs. He corrected abuses which had
the countenance of time for their practice ; he aroused his countrymen
from their indolence ; corruption ceased, persons were selected to fill
office from their fitness, and not, as formerly, from family influence.
His militia system worked admirably ; it produced a feeling of order
among a population notoriously irregular in their private habits and
domestic economy; it became a national guard, exercising a certain kind
of police over the whole land. Indeed, all his energies were called into
play, to improve and advance his country; roads were planned to open
communications to the coast, from sections abounding in agricultural
wealth, but remote from the seaboard. He set about raising the public
credit by husbanding the revenue, so as to enable it, after consolidating
domestic and foreign debt, to appropriate a certain amount, first
towards the periodical payments on account of interest, and then to
effect an arrangement with the English-bond-holders. For the latter
purpose, an agent was named to proceed to England.

To accomplish such radical changes great perseverance and firm-
ness were requisite, and these qualities eminently characterized
Portales. It is surprising how well he adapted his march to the actual
state of the country, and its prejudices of education. He supported
the clergy, to obtain their instrumentality as a moral power to
strengthen the government, knowing that otherwise they would, as
they frequently had, become its most formidable opponents. All this
created much discontent among many speculative politicians, who
fancied they could establish a refined system of government over
an uneducated and prejudiced mass of men like the Chilians ; a popu-
lation that had but a few years emerged from a political state little
different from that of Europe in the middle ages, whose predilections
were deeply rooted, whose habits only change by an increasing inter-
course with nations more enlightened than themselves, and who
gradually and almost imperceptibly yield to such an influence.

This government came into power after military rule had been in
possession of authority almost ever since the nation became indepen-

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI. 217

dent. It had been the custom to consult military men on every change
of government ; the rivalry of generals consequently kept up a constant
revolutionary propensity. A government, to establish civil rule supreme
in the land, and in order to have its laws obeyed, would be obliged to
exercise more severity with it than pre-existing circumstances had
called for. Portales incurred the sole odium of this severity. His
activity and energy were ever present and before the public. He had
a difficult task to perform in reconciling jarring interests, and pushing
out this system of reform, but he did it fearlessly. No selfish feeling
seemed to actuate him. His enemies admit that his disinterestedness
was extraordinary, and that neither himself nor his family were bene-
fited by his public employment. The remains of that unquiet military
spirit, the growth of revolution, would occasionally show itself; but
the government instantly crushed it, and sent the offenders out of the
country. A good understanding was sought with foreign powers.
A treaty was effected with Mexico, and one with the United States ;
and a mission to accomplish one with Peru, sent up by President
Orbejoso, was met with confidence. Unfortunately, when the ratifi-
cation of the latter was about being exchanged, a military revolt broke
out in Peru, headed by a Colonel Salaverry, which succeeded in
driving the legal government from Lima, and established one there of
which Salaverry declared himself supreme chief.

The Chilian government, too anxious to complete the treaty, which
was advantageous to the two countries, sent it to Peru, and exchanged
ratifications with Salaverry, who was at the time acknowledged to be
the de facto ruler, as far as decrees and possession of the capital went.
In this view of the case, Chili had an undoubted right to conclude the
treaty, and to expect that it would be observed. The ratification of
the treaty by Salaverry was followed by his sending a minister to
Chili, although the ambassador of the former government (Orbejoso's)
was still there. This was the germ from which grew the misunder-
standing that occurred on the restoration of Orbejoso's government,
which was effected through the intervention of the President of Bolivia,
General Santa Cruz, who had been called upon by Orbejoso for
assistance. This resulted in the defeat of Salaverry, the establishment
of the Peru-Bolivian Confederation, and the naming of Santa Cruz
as Supreme Protector, for life, by assemblies convoked by him, and
the appointment of Orbejoso as President of North Peru.

While these matters, however, were in progress, Orbejoso, who had
returned to Lima after the battle of Socabaya, immediately on his
arrival annulled the treaty with Chili, with no other notice to the
latter government than the public decree, by which she was informed

VOL. i. 28

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

that four months were allowed her to renew it or not, otherwise it
would be of no effect.

Chili took umbrage at this abrupt mode of proceeding, and allowed
the time to pass, when both governments restored the former retalia-
tory duties on their respective products.

Santa Cruz framed a new commercial code for Peru, and among
its articles, was one imposing double duties on all vessels touching at
any Chilian port, before going to Peru. This measure was odious
to Chili, and was considered as evincing unfriendly feelings. Whilst
Chili was in the full tide of prosperity, and attending to her own
internal regulations, the administration, satisfied that all was quiet at
home, appears to have been utterly regardless of the course things
were taking in Peru. President Prieto at this time was re-elected for
a second term, upon which General Ramon Freyre, the former director
of Chili, but for some years banished the country, and living in Peru,
set out with a few other exiled Chilian officers, on a revolutionary
adventure to Chili. Embarking in two Peruvian government vessels,
hired from Orbejoso ostensibly for a trading voyage to Central
America, his real intention was to proceed to the south of Chili, and
make a descent upon the coast. He entertained the expectation of
being joined by the old military, and other dissatisfied persons, and
was in hopes of finally establishing himself again in power. Some few
days subsequently to Freyre's departure from Lima, the Chilian consul-
general hearing of it, despatched a fast-sailing vessel to apprise his
government. The vessel had a very short passage, and the intelligence
took the government entirely by surprise. They were wholly unpre-
pared for an attack from any quarter. Their only armed vessel was
a small schooner, and this was employed at the time to bring the
electoral returns from Chiloe. The intelligence, however, caused
government no alarm. With a promptitude characteristic of Portales'
system, which was now fairly established, a dismantled brig-of-war
was rigged, a crew shipped, and made ready for sea in four days.
Gun-boats were armed, and every precaution taken to guard against
surprise. At the same time the government received tenders of service
from people of property and influence throughout the whole republic,
and few felt any doubts that the result of the affair would be in favour
of the government.

Soon after, the largest of Freyre's vessels, with some of his best
officers on board, was brought in by her crew, and delivered up. It
was ascertained that the rendezvous was to be Chiloe. No time was
lost in sending off the prize, with a good equipment, to decoy Freyre,
if possible. He was found in possession of Chiloe. The stratagem

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI. 219

was successful, and they returned with him prisoner, and the other
vessels as prizes. Thus ended, in the short space of two months, an
expedition headed by one who had been the most popular ruler Chili
ever had. Though possessing still many friends in the country, he
found himself a prisoner and not a voice raised to his rescue. His
life was considered forfeited, as he had been banished by the present
government, and had come to introduce anew all the horrors of civil
war into a peaceful country. The recollection of his distinguished
services to the nation in times past, his having with honour to himself
and credit to his country filled its highest office, and no doubt some
sympathy for his changed situation, obtained for him the clemency of
the government. He and his adherents were again banished, and no
person connected with him otherwise punished. He was also per-
mitted to see his family frequently during his confinement.

The result of this attempt had the effect of strengthening the admi-
nistration. People of property and respectability, even of opposite
parties, rallied around it : a satisfactory proof that there was a love of
order rising, and that the supremacy of civil rule would no longer
submit to changes effected by arms.

In the meanwhile, circumstances seemed to justify the belief of the
connivance of the Peruvian government in Freyre's plan. It had been
notified by the Chilian consul-general, a few hours after the vessels
sailed, of the true objects of the voyage, and there was still time to
prevent Freyre's success. They shuffled out of the affair, and on
learning that the consul-general was despatching a vessel to inform
his government, they put an embargo on the port of Callao. The
vessel, however, had sailed before the order reached the port; on
understanding which the embargo was immediately raised.

This was publicly commented on at the time by foreigners in the
place, and afforded conclusive evidence that the Peruvian government
was concerned in the plot. The Chilian vessels of war, Achilles and
Colocolo, the only ones possessed by the government, were despatched
suddenly on secret service. A confidential agent accompanied them.
They went to Callao, and seized upon three Peruvian vessels of war
lying in the harbour, to take away the only means of offence in the
power of a government which had proved itself so unfriendly. This
being done, the vessels were taken over to the island of San Lorenzo,
and anchored under the guns of the Chilian vessels. The Chilian civil
agent demanded explanations respecting Freyre's expedition. Before
these were given, great excitement prevailed on shore, at what was
conceived to be an outrage against civilized nations ; for it was said
that the Chilian vessels had entered under the guise of friendship, and

220 POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

while partaking of the hospitality of a nation at peace with their own
had basely taken advantage of it to insult the country. The Chilian
consul-general, when the news first reached Lima, was subjected to a
short arrest. Finally, matters settled down, and the parties agreed to
discuss the subjects of complaint on board the English sloop-of-war
Talbot. Santa Cruz sent one of his principal officers, and a conven-
tion was agreed upon for the suspension of hostilities on both sides for
the term of four months. The Peruvian vessels were to remain in
possession of the Chilians, and no warlike preparations during the time
were to be made by either party. Santa Cruz disavowed any partici-
pation in Freyre's plans, and expressed his willingness to pay Chili the
expenses of suppressing the attempt. He also bound himself to the
performance of his part of the convention, leaving the Chilian agent
subject to the approbation of his government, and assured him of his
earnest desire for a good understanding with Chili.

The vessels returned to Chili, a diplomatic agent of Santa Cruz
accompanying them. The Chilian government refused to ratify the
convention when informed of it, and proceeded in the most active
preparations for fitting out all the captured Peruvian vessels. At this
time it might have dictated any terms to Santa Cruz, who was anxious
to secure his newly-acquired power. Chili, however, had no confi-
dence in him, and prepared for the coming struggle. Santa Cruz's
minister returned to Peru. He was followed by the Chilian fleet,
having a high diplomatic agent on board, with the government sine
qua non, viz., the abandonment of the Confederation, and the restora-
tion of the independent sovereignties of Peru and Bolivia. Santa Cruz
refused to receive a minister attended by an armed force, which had
the appearance of a menace. In vain did the Chilian minister offer to
send them away, and remain in the smallest vessel of the squadron,
saying the latter was merely to guard against a repetition of Freyre's
expedition. Nothing was done. The Chilian minister returned home,
and Chili then declared war against the Confederation, on the 12th ot
December, 1836. Freyre's attempt had been crushed in August, 1836.

Chili became sensible, too late, of her error in not protesting at first
against the armed interference of Santa Cruz in the affairs of Peru ; by
not doing which she tacitly assented, and thus encouraged him. But,
occupied with her internal concerns, she heeded little what was passing
around her, and had not Freyre's expedition been fitted out in Peru,
Santa Cruz's plans of government would have been unmolested. She
felt too late that no confidence could be placed in her new neighbours.
Determined, therefore, on his downfall, an expedition against him was
planned, composed of naval and land forces ; and numerous banished

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

Peruvians living in Chili were permitted to join, who formed them-
selves into a separate body, under General Lafuente, a distinguished
Peruvian revolutionist. The first ill effects of a revival of a military
spirit in Chili were now experienced. As before mentioned, one of the
reforms of the government was the reduction of the army to a number
barely sufficient to protect the southern frontier against the Indians.
To create a force, therefore, it became necessary to raise recruits in
every direction. Congress being in session, granted extraordinary
powers to the President, — a very necessary step to give effect to exe-
cutive decrees.

The following is a translation of a decree of the President, issued by
Portales, as Minister of the Interior, at the breaking out of the war:

Department of the Interior.

In consequence of the power that the 43d and 82d articles of the
Constitution have conferred upon me, I have well considered and
approved the following resolution of the National Congress.

1st. He who has been condemned to remain in a particular part of
the Republic, or exiled from it by the judicial sentence, and for the
crime of sedition, conspiracy, and riot, will suffer death if he breaks
his confinement or exile.

2d. In whatever part of the Republic any one of the criminals
included in the foregoing article may be apprehended, without the
limits that have been assigned to him, the authorities will seize and
shoot him, within twenty-four hours, without any other proofs than
may be necessary to identify the person, and without suffering any
appeal to a higher authority.

3d. The present law will begin to act, respecting all those who are
expelled the Republic for the crimes which are expressed in the first
article.

On this account I direct it to be promulgated, and to take effect in
all parts, as a law of the state.

(Signed) PR.IETO.
DIEGO PORTALES.

Santiago, January 28th, 1837.

Inasmuch as the National Congress has declared the state to be in
actual war with Peru, and in consequence clothed the President of
the Republic with all the necessary powers that his prudence may find
necessary for the exigency of the state, without any other limitation
than that he shall not condemn or give punishment of his own will, but
leave these to be judged by the established tribunals, or those which
this present government may hereafter establish. In consequence of

222 POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

the authority conferred upon me, I promulgate, by the articles forty-
third and eighty-second of the Constitution, sanction, approve, and
order the foregoing decree to be made public, through the press.

PRIETO.
DIEGO PORTALES.

Santiago, 31st January, 1837.

This decree did not fail to renew the complaints of old parties
against the government as despotic, &c. To carry on the war, part
of two battalions of a veteran regiment from the south arrived at
Valparaiso, under the command of Colonel Vidaurre, a brave and
distinguished officer. They were ordered to Quillota, where recruits
were to join them, until the regiment should be full, and where they
were to be drilled and disciplined, for embarkation. Vidaurre was
appointed head of the staff of the army, under Admiral Blanco Enca-
lada, commander-in-chief. A regiment of one thousand four hundred
men was soon completed, and reported to be in fine order. The navy,
composed of seven vessels, was ready to sail. At this time Portales.
being minister of war, came to Valparaiso, to hasten the departure of
the expedition, and to give his personal inspection to its materiel.
Vidaurre was his protege, and an invitation to a ball, said to be about
being given in Quillota, sent by Vidaurre, was accepted by Portales,
who intended going there to examine the condition of the troops. At
the same time, he determined on carrying Vidaurre his epaulettes and
promotion as brigadier and chief of the staff. On the afternoon of the
3d of June, 1836, Vidaurre ordered the troops into the square for
Portales' reception. When all were assembled, Vidaurre made a
signal ; some soldiers advanced, surrounded and seized Portales, who
was not allowed to say a word, but was hurried to prison, and heavy
irons put on him. An acta, or declaration, was drawn up and signed
by about forty officers, all subalterns, containing the usual phraseology
of such documents, about tyranny, injustice, suffering country, &c. A
servant of Portales escaped unseen, and brought the astounding intelli-
gence to Valparaiso, soon after midnight, creating the greatest conster-
nation. It was naturally supposed that an officer of Vidaurre's energy
and character would push for Valparaiso without delay. If he had
done so, he could have taken it. Alarm-guns were fired, and before
daylight the militia were under arms, and not long after the squadron,
consisting of some seven vessels, were hauled towards the Almendral.
In the course of the day, some few hundred men, sent by Vidaurre,
were met and repulsed by a body of militia. Not long after, a flag of
truce was sent to the town, demanding the delivery of the " Port" and
vessels, threatening, in the event of a refusal, to execute Portales, and

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI. 223

in case the town was taken, to give it up to plunder, besides shooting
every officer found in arms. It is said that Vidaurre offered to save
Portales' life if he would write an order for the surrender of the town.
This he refused with indignation. The authorities, nevertheless,
remained firm, and allowed the flag to return. The greatest anxiety
prevailed in the Port, as a night-attack was apprehended, and it was
feared the militia, new to warfare, would give way, or perhaps join
the revolters. The measures taken to defend Valparaiso were admi-
rable. No confusion was observed, and the greatest alacrity was
manifested by every officer of the government, and citizens, to aid the
cause of order. The foreign merchants, however, sent their books,
papers, and money, on board the English frigate Blonde, the only
foreign vessel of war in port. Vidaurre came on, confident of success.
He encountered the militia, at the entrance of the Port, about two
o'clock in the morning, and met with so warm a reception that he was
compelled to fall back. The militia pushed on, directed by Admiral
Blanco. The governor, Colonel Vidaurre, a cousin of the revolutionist
chief, followed him up so closely that it ended in a complete defeat,
Vidaurre's troops scattering themselves in every direction, himself
flying with a few officers. When the fate of his troops was decided,
his step-son, who was in the rear, where Portales was in a gig, heavily
ironed, had him taken out, with his secretary, and shot. Portales not
being killed by the first fire, was bayonetted, with savage brutality, in
various parts of his body, which they left in the road, covered with
thirty-five wounds. The pursuit continued throughout the day; the
soldiers were left without officers, and gradually returned to their old
quarters, where they were incorporated with other regiments. Some
days elapsed before Vidaurre and his accomplices were taken.
Although a feeling of horror pervaded the community at the fate of
Portales, yet the most perfect order and confidence continued. Neither
on his examination, nor that of his officers, did it appear that the move-
ment had been encouraged by any party in the country. In fact, it
could only be inferred that he was ambitious to play the part of a
second Salaverry.

Order triumphed most completely. The militia had arrayed itself
on its side, and increased confidence was felt in the government,
though there were not wanting some who predicted its speedy down-
fall, now that it was deprived of its most efficient member. Vidaurre
was replaced by a much more respectable person, General Aldunate,
a man characterized as the Don Quixote of honour by those less
scrupulous than himself. The government gained by this exchange,
but the loss sustained in the death of Portales was irreparable. He

224 POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

stood alone ; ho worked for his country ; and his fate was most un-
merited. Deeply did every true friend of Chili deplore it. He had
taught that the civil authority could be made supreme, and he
will have one of the most conspicuous places in the history of Chili.
He was in the prime of life, about forty-two years of age, unmarried,
and at no period were his services more required. His energy, how-
ever, seemed to have been imbibed by the whole administration, and
no abatement took place in the preparations for war.

Vidaurre and his officers were tried by a court-martial held in
Valparaiso, and condemned to be executed. Twelve were shot, the
rest were banished. This was the first execution of such a sentence
for political offences that had ever occurred in Chili. Some pretended
to bode ill from it, but its effects so far have been salutary ; and these
desperate characters will riot be so much inclined to run headlong into
revolutionary movements after seeing the fruits of it

The expedition, composed of three thousand men, finally sailed, and
disembarking at Islay, proceeded to Arequipa, the second city of Peru,
of which they took possession. Santa Cruz's troops retired to the
interior. Lafuente was here proclaimed Supreme Chief, according to
prescribed forms in such cases provided, and set about organizing his
government, filling offices without a real of revenue, or any source
from which he could raise any. No disaffected Peruvians joined
them, and their situation became very critical, as Santa Cruz was
concentrating his forces, and threatened to cut off the communication
with their ships. Thus hemmed in, they would have been obliged to
surrender at discretion. These advantages were possessed by Santa
Cruz, and the Chilians saw no way of escape. Why Santa Cruz
should have lost this opportunity to strike a decided blow, is incon-
ceivable. He did, however, waive it, and proposed to treat. Commu-
nications passed for some days. Santa Cruz's army augmenting daily,
was now double that of the Chilian general, who seemed to have no
alternative but submission. Still he put a brave countenance on the
affair, and signed at Paucarpata a treaty with Santa Cruz, having
previously held a council of war, which was attended by the minister
plenipotentiary which the Chilian government had sent with the ex-
pedition. There was no voice raised against the treaty. It was
honourable to the Chilians, and saved their whole army. Festivities
followed, after which the Chilian forces embarked and returned home.
Neither the government nor the people were satisfied. Blanco landed
secretly, and was received coldly. The President refused to ratify the
treaty. It was considered disgraceful, as the object of the war had
not been gained, and singularly enough, the war now became popular

POLITICAL HISTORY OF CHILI. 225

with all parties. The army landed in perfect order. Blanco was
deprived of his command, and a court-martial ordered. The troops
were again sent to Quillota, and the greatest enthusiasm seemed to
prevail. A new and more formidable expedition was determined on;
and General Bulnes, the President's nephew, who commanded the
troops on the frontiers, and was known as a bold dashing officer, was
appointed to the command. Many thought the government mad, fore-
saw forced loans, and all the attendant evils, great financial difficulties,
and, eventually, revolution. Still the government moved steadily on.
Six thousand men were soon got together, well officered, well equipped,
and with a military chest well filled. It is generally believed that the
church made a loan to the government for this war, and it is said that
it possesses one-eighth of the landed property of the country. This
second expedition sailed, confident of success. No loans were asked
for by government, nor any funds other than the ordinary revenue
used, yet no account remained unpaid. This was and continues to be
the marvel of every one. The greatest regularity was observed in all
the dealings of the government agents ; no complaints of extortion or
abuses were heard. The internal affairs of the country went on as if
no war existed. Improvements were not neglected; lighthouses built;
roads improved ; and no interruption took place in the usual operations
of government. With this last expedition went General Gamarra, one
of the fathers of Peruvian revolution, grown gray in the service.
Lafuente went as his adjunct, though he had once made a revolution
against him. With these went a host of military leeches, Peruvian
exiles, ready to bleed their country to its last gasp. High-sounding
words of patriotism, oppressed country, self-devotion, &c., flowed
from them in most extravagant terms. From their local information
it was expedient for the Chilians to have them, but if considered as
a constituent part of the army, they were like fire-brands. Bulnes, a
plain blunt soldier, it was thought would use no ceremony with any
of them if he found them troublesome, which those who knew their
characters thought would be the case.

The remaining part of the operations of the Chilian army in Peru,
will be treated of when I give the sketch of the history of that country.

STIRRUPS, SPURS, ETC., OF CHILI.

VOL. i. 29

CHAPTER XI L

CONTENTS.

PORPOISE SAILS— ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS — DIFFICULTIES OF LEAVING THE
BAY — REGULATIONS OF PORT BADLY OBSERVED — CONDUCT OF THE CAPTAIN OF
HAMBURG VESSEL — DEPARTURE — PART COMPANY WITH PEACOCK AND TENDER-
EVENTS ON PASSAGE TO CALLAO — ZODIACAL LIGHTS— MAKE THE COAST OF PERU

— TEMPERATURE OF WATER — ENTER BOUQUERON PASSAGE — ANCHOR AT SAN
LORENZO — GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF ISLAND — BURYING GROUND — ARRIVAL OF
FALMOUTH — CAPTAIN M'KEEVER— HIS KINDNESS-DESERTERS—CONDUCT OF CREW
OF RELIEF — PUNISHMENT — EFFECTUAL SUPPRESSION OF SUCH CONDUCT — COURT
MARTIAL— JUSTIFICATION— CHANGE OF ANCHORAGE TO CALLAO— HEIGHT OF LIMA—
MOLE-CALLAO— VESSELS IN PORT-CASTLE—DESCRIPTION OF HOUSES — RELIGIOUS
PRACTICES— MARKET— REVIEW OF TROOPS— OLD CALLAO— EFFECTS OF EARTHQUAKE
—VAULTS FOR DEPOSITING THE DEAD-POPULATION OF CALLAO— FOURTH OF JULY
—ROAD TO LIMA— DEVASTATIONS— BELLA VISTA— APPROACH TO LIMA-ENTRANCE
AND APPEARANCE— ITS PLAN— AMUSEMENTS-SAYA AND MANTA— ITS PRIVILEGES

— DESCRIPTION OF IT-HOUSES — PORTALES OR ARCADES — PALACE — FOUNTAIN —
CATHEDRAL — CRYPT — NOVEL HEARSE — MARKET— CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO-
LIBRARY— SIGNATURE OF PIZARRO— FOUNDING OF LIMA— THEATRE— NAVAL SCHOOL-
CLASSES OF NATIVES— POPULATION— NEWSPAPERS— HANDBILLS— FESTIVAL-CORPUS
CHRISTI— MR. MATHEWS— MANUFACTORIES— FESTIVAL OF ST. JOHN'S— AMANCAES—
CELEBRATION — EARTHQUAKES- EFFECTS PRODUCED— GATEWAY, NAVAL SCHOOL-
CLIMATE— RAIN— MEAN TEMPERATURE— HEALTH— RIMAC— IRRIGATION— HARVEST-
CHILIAN ARMY— STATE OF THE COUNTRY— MANNER OF RECRUITING THE ARMY-
TREATMENT OF SLAVES— DEATH OF BENJAMIN HOLDEN— SMALL-POX— PRECAUTIONS
ADOPTED.

(227)

CHAPTER XII.

PERU.
1839.

ON the 26th of May, the Porpoise sailed for Callao, in order that
some repairs might be made on her, which our time here did not
admit of. At Valparaiso the weather was extremely unfavourable for
astronomical observations. I had been in great hopes of being able to
obtain a series of moon culminating stars, and occultations, but no
opportunity occurred, so that I had to content myself with those for
rating the chronometers, and to connect this port with Callao. The
longitude adopted for Fort San Antonio, was 71° 39' 20" W., which
is the last determination of it by King and Fitzroy.

On the 4th, we made an attempt to get out of the bay, but were
obliged again to cast anchor. At this season of the year, light
northerly winds usually prevail, and a heavy swell frequently sets in
the bay, making the roadstead very uncomfortable, and at times dan-
gerous. The vessels are too much crowded, and the regulations of
the port are not sufficiently attended to.

I was not a little amused with the master of a Hamburg barque,
who dropped his anchor so as to foul the berth of my ship, and when
he brought up, swung close alongside. He seemed perfectly satisfied
with his situation, and apparently knew little about his business, show-
ing all the doggedness of his countrymen. The weather looking
threatening, I sent him word to move, stating that in case of a change
of wind, he would be greatly injured. He quietly replied that his
vessel was made of teak, and that his underwriters or my governmenl
would pay his damages, and that he could stand a good deal of grind-
ing ! Without more ado, I sent an officer and men, and put him at
once out of my way.

On the 6th, we had a breeze from the southward and eastward, and

232 PERU.

It was with much pleasure we greeted the arrival of the Falmouth,
Captain M'Keever, whose kindness in supplying our wants, and
forwarding our operations, we again experienced. The essential and
timely aid he gave me, in exchanging the launch and first cutter of
his ship, for materials to build one, which I had brought from Valpa-
raiso for that purpose, prevented our detention here.

The Falmouth brought from Valparaiso three deserters from the
squadron, who had been apprehended by Lieutenant Craven, and
from whom I received a report, stating that two of them, Blake and
Lester, had been guilty not only of desertion, but that their desertions
had been attended with very aggravated circumstances. Just about
this time the stores were delivering from the Relief. Among them
was a quantity of whiskey for the other vessels. The marines who
were placed on duty over the spirit-room as guard, with six persons
employed in moving it, got drunk by stealing the liquor, and her whole
crew became riotous. The delinquents were ordered on board my
ship in confinement. These were court-martial offences, but the duties
of the squadron would not permit me to order a court for their trial,
without great loss of time and detriment to the service. To let such
offences pass with the ordinary punishment of twelve lashes, would
have been in the eyes of the crew, to have overlooked their crime
altogether. I was, therefore, compelled, in order to preserve order
and good discipline, to inflict what I deemed a proper punishment, and
ordered them each to receive twenty-four lashes, excepting Blake and
Lester, who received thirty-six and forty-one. This was awarding to
each about one-tenth of what a court-martial would have inflicted;
yet it was such an example as thoroughly convinced the men that they
could not offend with impunity. This was, I am well satisfied, consi-
dered at the time as little or no punishment for the crimes of which
they had been guilty ; but I felt satisfied that the prompt and decided
manner in which it was administered, would have the desired effect of
preserving the proper discipline, and preventing its recurrence. In
this I was not disappointed. I should not have made this statement,
had it not been that this was the sole charge, out of eleven, spread out
into thirty-six specifications, on which a court of thirteen members,
after an investigation of three weeks, could find I had transgressed the
laws of the navy in the smallest degree. In justification of my course
on this occasion, I could not but believe that the following clause of
my instructions from the Hon. J. K. Paulding, Secretary of the Navy,
ought to have sufficed : " In the prosecution of these long and devious
voyages, you will necessarily be placed in situations which cannot be
anticipated, and in which sometimes your own judgment and discre-

PERU.

tion, and at others necessity, must be your guide." Under this I
acted. I am fully satisfied that in this case circumstances did occur,
which in the language of my instructions did make " necessity my
guide," and I fully believe that in so doing I saved the results of
the Expedition, the honour of the navy, and the glory of the country.

On the 30th of June, the squadron went over to Callao.

The Bay of Callao is too well known to require much to be said of
it. The climate, combined with the prevailing winds, make it a fine
harbour. The island of San Lorenzo protects it on the west from the
swell of the ocean, but its northern side is entirely exposed ; there is
no danger to be apprehended from that quarter. A few miles to the
north the influence of San Lorenzo ceases ; the surf there breaks very
heavily up on the beach, and prevents any landing.

The gradual manner in which the extensive plain rises from Callao
towards Lima, seems to give a very erroneous idea of the situation of
the city. From the bay it is seen quite distinctly, about six miles
distant, and does not appear to be elevated ; yet I measured the height
of Mr. Bartlett's house above the level of the sea by sympiesometer,
and found it four hundred and twenty feet. The rise would be scarcely
perceptible to a stranger passing over the road, or one who had not a
practised eye.

The tide at Callao is small, generally of three and four feet rise.
The temperature of the water during our stay was 60° ; of the air
from 57° to 63°.

Since my visit to Callao in 1821, it had much altered and for the
better, notwithstanding the vicissitudes it has gone through since that
time. A fine mole has been erected, surrounded by an iron railing.
On it is a guard-house, with soldiers lounging about, and some two or
three on guard.

The mole affords every convenience for landing from small vessels
and boats. The streets of Callao have been made much wider, and
the town has a more decent appearance. Water is conducted from
the canal to the mole, and a railway takes the goods to the fortress,
which is now converted into a depot. This place, the seaport of
Lima, must be one of the great resorts of shipping, not only for its
safety, but for the convenience of providing supplies. The best idea
of its trade will be formed from the number of vessels that frequent it.
I have understood that there is generally about the same number as
we found in port, namely, forty-two, nine of which were ships of war :
five American, two French, one Chilian, and thirty-five Peruvian
merchantmen, large and small.

The Castle of Callao has become celebrated in history, and has long
VOL. i. 30

234 PER U.

been the key of Peru. Whichever party had it in possession, were
considered as the possessors of the country. It is now converted to a
better use, viz. : that of a custom-house, and is nearly dismantled.
Only five of its beautiful guns remain, out of one hundred and forty-
five, which it is said to have mounted. During our visit there the
Chilian troops had possession of the country, which they had held
since the battle of Yungai. Most of the buildings are undergoing
repairs since the late contest.

It is said that the fortress is to be demolished, and thus the peace
of Callao will in a great measure be secured.

The principal street of Callao runs parallel with the bay. There
are a few tolerably well-built two-story houses on the main street, which
is paved. These houses are built of adobes, and have flat roofs, which
is no inconvenience here, in consequence of the absence of heavy
rains. The interior of the houses is of the commonest kind of work.
The partition walls are built of cane, closely laced together. The
houses of the common people are of one story, and about ten feet
high ; some of them have a grated window, but most of them only a
doorway and one room. Others are seen that hardly deserve the name
of houses, being nothing more than mud walls, with holes covered
with a mat, and the same overhead.

The outskirts of Callao deserve mentioning only for their excessive
filth ; and were it not for the fine climate it would be the hot-bed of
pestilence. One feels glad to escape from this neighbourhood.

The donations to the clergy or priests, at two small chapels,
are collected on Saturdays from the inhabitants. On the evening of
the same day, the devotees of the church, headed by the priest, carry
a small portable altar through the streets, decorated with much tinsel,
and various-coloured glass lamps, on which is a rude painting of the
Virgin. As they walk, they chaunt their prayers.

The market, though there is nothing else remarkable about it, ex-
hibits many of the peculiar customs of the country. It is held in a
square of about one and a half acres. The stands for selling meat
are placed indiscriminately, or without order. Beef is sold for from
four to six cents the pound, is cut in the direction of its fibre, and looks
filthy. It is killed on the commons, and the hide, head, and horns are
left for the buzzards and dogs. The rest is brought to market, on
the backs of donkeys. Chickens are cut up to suit purchasers. Fish
and vegetables are abundant, and of good kinds, and good fruit may
be had if bespoken. In this case it is brought from Lima. Every
thing confirms, on landing, the truth of the geographical adage, " In
Peru it never rains." It appears every where dusty and parched up.

PERU. 235

We had a good opportunity of visiting the far-famed fortress. It is
said to be able to contain ten thousand troops, and from its extent,
would appear capable of accommodating that number with ease.
What engaged our attention most, was a review of the soldiers of the
garrison. They are about eight hundred strong, and every one seemed
to be " acting on his own hook," as they are said to have done in the
late battle. The officers, instead of swords, carried coichides, about
five feet in length, which they applied with earnestness to the men,
and indeed, from appearances, they seemed to require it, if they were
ever to be changed into soldiers.

The situation of old Callao is still visible under the water, and though
an interesting object, becomes a melancholy one, when one thinks of
the havoc a few minutes effected. The very foundation seems to have
been upturned and shaken to pieces, and the whole submerged by a
mighty wave. The wonder is that any one escaped to tell the tale.

Two crosses mark the height to which the sea rose. The upper
one, one-third of the way to Lima, indicates the extreme distance to
which the water flowed ; the lower one marks the place whither the
Spanish frigate was carried. I very much doubt the truth of either.
I can easily conceive that a great wave would be sufficient to carry a
large vessel from her moorings half a mile inland, but I cannot imagine
how the water should have reached the height of one hundred and
fifty feet at least above the level of the sea, and yet permitted two
hundred inhabitants of old Callao to have escaped on the walls of a
church which are not half that height.

Outside the walls of the fortress arc several large vaults, filled with
the dead, in all stages of decay, and on which the vultures were
gorging themselves : this was a revolting spectacle. Indeed, it is
truly surprising that the higher classes, and those in immediate au-
thority, should not feel the necessity of appearing more civilized in
the disposition of their dead. Many are thrown in naked, and covered
only with a few inches of sand. Great numbers of skeletons are still
seen with pieces of clothing hanging to them. Dogs and vultures in
great numbers were every where feeding upon the dead, or standing
aloof fairly gorged with their disgusting repast. If any thing is calcu-
lated to make a people brutal, and to prevent the inculcation of proper
feeling, it is such revolting sights as these.

Callao is said to contain betxveen two and three thousand inhabi-
tants, but this number, from the appearance of the place, seems to be
overrated. Several new buildings are going up, which proves, that
notwithstanding the times of revolution, they still persist in carrying
on improvements. The principal street is about a third of a mile in

•>3(J PERU.

length, and is tolerably well paved, with sidewalks. Billiard-signs
stare you in the face. This, I presume, may be set down as the great
amusement, to which may be added the favourite monte" at night.
There is no lack of pulperias.

Coaches, or rather omnibusses, run several times a day to Lima.
The old accounts of robberies on the road to Lima, are still fresh in
the mouths of strangers. In times of revolution it was infested by
robbers, but the steps taken by government have effectually put a stop
to them.

The 4th of July was duly celebrated. The Falmouth, Captain
M'Keever, fired a salute in honour of the day, and the Vincennes was
dressed with national flags.

On the road to Lima is Bella Vista ; but it is in ruins, and has been
so ever since the revolution. It was generally the outpost or battle-
ground of the two parties, and although the soil in the plain which
borders the sea is extremely fertile, consisting of decomposed rock,
containing the elements of fertility in the greatest abundance, it now
appears a neglected waste. Attention to its cultivation and irrigation
would make it a perfect garden. On approaching Lima, the gardens
and fields are found to be cultivated and well irrigated. Fields of
Indian corn are seen, some fully ripe, some half-grown, and others
just shooting up, — a novel sight to us. This bears testimony not only
to the fineness of the climate, but to the fertility of the soil. The
gardens near the city are filled to profusion with fruits of all descrip-
tions.

The road, on its near approach to the city, forms an avenue of about
a mile in length. This, in its prosperous days, was the usual evening
drive, and afforded a most agreeable one. On each side are gardens
filled with orange trees, the fragrance of whose flowers, and the beauty
and variety of the fruit, added to its pleasures. It is now going to
decay from utter neglect. Its rows of willows, and the streams of
running water on each side, though forming its great attraction, will,
if suffered to remain without attention, be completely destroyed. No
one seems to take interest in the public works. So marked a diffe-
rence from Chili could not but be observed.

At Lima I was struck with the change that had taken place since
my former visit. Every thing now betokens poverty and decay; a sad
change from its former splendour and wealth. This appearance was
observed not only in the city, but also among the inhabitants. Whole
families have been swept off, and their former attendants, or strangers,
have become the possessors of their houses and property.

The countrv has been a scene of commotion and revolution for the

PERU. 237

last twenty-five years, of which Lima for a long time was the centre.
The fate of Lower Peru being entirely dependent on it, and the fortress
of Callao, the alternate possessors have stripped it and its inhabitants
in every way in their power. It may with truth be designated a
declining city.

The neglected walls and ruined tenements, the want of stir and life
among the people, are sad evidences of this decay. The population is
now said to be about forty-five thousand, although in former times it
has been supposed to amount to as many as sixty-five or seventy
thousand.

The aspect of the city, especially a bird's-eye view from the neigh-
bouring hills, gives to the eye of the stranger the appearance of ruins.
There are few buildings that have the look of durability, and no new
ones have been put up for the last forty years. The plan of the city
combines more advantages than any other that could have been
adopted for the locality. The streets are at right angles, and all
sufficiently broad. Those which run with the declivity of the ground,
northwest and southeast, have water flowing through their middle.
They have not, however, a very clean appearance ; but this is certainly
not to be imputed to the want of the facility of being made so. The
uses to which these streams are put, and the numerous buzzards that
frequent them, gives the stranger any other idea than that of cleanli-
ness. The buzzards are protected by law, and may be seen fighting
for their food in the gutters, regardless of passers ; or sitting on the tops
of the houses, thirty or forty in a row, watching for more food.

Great attention has been paid to laying out the Alameda, which is
on the north side of the city. Its centre is ornamented with a number
of fountains; its walks are well shaded on each side with trees; and
the running water adds to its freshness: all unite to form a delightful
promenade. In the cool of the evening it is much frequented, and its
stone seats are occupied by numbers of citizens. This is the best place
to get a view of the inhabitants ; and notwithstanding their internal
commotions, they appear fully to enjoy their cigarittas, which they are
constantly smoking. The peculiar dress of the ladies is here seen to
the best advantage, and, however fitted it may be to cover intrigue, is
not, certainly, adapted to the display of beauty. A more awkward and
absurd dress cannot well be conceived. It is by no means indicative
of the wearer's rank, for frequently this disguise is ragged and tattered,
and assumed under its most forbidding aspect to deceive, or carry on
an intrigue, of which it is almost an effectual cloak.

I never could behold these dresses without considering them as an

238 PER U.

emblem of the wretched condition of domestic society in this far-famed
city.

The saya and manto were originally intended as a retiring, modest
dress, to mark reserve, to insure seclusion, and to enable ladies to go
abroad without an escort. The general term for the wearers is
Tapada, and they were always held sacred from insult. Tapada is
likewise applied to a dress which is also frequently seen, viz., a shawl
worn over the head, so as to cover the nose, mouth, and forehead.
None but the most intimate friend can know the wearers, who frequent
the theatres in this disguise. It is to be regretted, that it is now worn
for very different purposes from its original intention. Intrigues of
all kinds are said to be carried on under it. It enables the wearer to
mix in all societies, and to frequent any place of amusement, without
being known, and, even if suspected by her husband or relatives, the
law of custom would protect her from discovery. In this dress, it is
said, a wife will pass her own husband when she maybe walking with
her lover, and the husband may make love to his wife, without being
aware it is she.

The saya is a silk petticoat, with numerous small vertical plaits,
containing about thirty yards of silk, and costing fifty or sixty dollars.
It is drawn in close at the bottom of the dress, so that the wearer is
obliged to make very short steps (ten inches). It is a little elastic, and
conforms to the shape, whether natural or artificial, from the waist
down. The manto is a kind of cloak, of black silk. It is fastened to
the saya at the waist, and brought over the head and shoulders from
behind, concealing every thing but one eye, and one hand, in which is
usually seen a cross, or whose fingers are well ornamented with
jewels. Before the manto is arranged, a French shawl of bright
colours is thrown over the shoulders, and brought between the open-
ings of the manto in front, hanging down nearly to the feet. The
loose saya is also much worn : this is not contracted at the bottom,
and in walking has a great swing from side to side.

The walk of the Lima ladies is graceful and pretty, and they
usually have small feet and hands.

The houses are built of sun-burnt brick, cane, and small timber.
All those of the better class have small balconies to the second story.
Most of the houses are of two stories, and they generally have an
archway from the street, secured by a strong portal, leading into an
open court. The lower, or ground-floor, is used as storehouses,
stables, &c. This peculiar manner of building is intended as a
security against the effects of earthquakes. The housetops are a

PERU. 239

depository for all kinds of rubbish, and the accumulation of dust is
great. The staircase leading to the upper story is generally hand-
some, and decorated with fresco paintings, which are, however, far
below mediocrity. This style of building is well adapted to the
climate.

The Portales or Arcades is one of the most attractive places for the
stranger. He is there sure at all hours to see more of life in Lima
than at any other place. They are built on two sides of the Plaza.
The ground-floor is occupied as shops, where all kinds of dry-goods
and fancy articles are sold. Between the columns, next the Plaza,
are many lace and fringe-workers, &c. &c. ; and without these again
are sundry cooks, fresco-sellers, &c., who are frying savoury cakes
and fish for their customers, particularly in the morning and late in
the evening.

The Arcades are about five hundred feet long, well paved with
small stones, interlaid with the knuckle-bones of sheep, which produces
a kind of mosaic pavement, and makes known the date of its being
laid down as 1799. This place for hours every day is the great resort,
and one has a full insight to every store, as they are all doors, and con-
sequently quite exposed, to their remotest corner. The second story
is occupied as dwellings.

The Palace of the Viceroy occupies the north side of the Plaza.
The lower part of it is a row of small shops, principally tinkers and
smallware-dealers. On the east side is the Archbishop's Palace and
the Cathedral.

The fountain in the centre of the Plaza is a fine piece of work, and
was erected, according to the inscription, in 1600, by Don Garcia Sar-
miento Sotomayer, the Viceroy and Captain-General of the kingdom.

" El que bebe de la pila sequenda in Lima," is the usual saying.

" He that drinks of the fountain will not leave Lima."

The Cathedral is a remarkable building, not only from its size, but
its ornaments. Most of the decorations are in bad taste, and I should
imagine its former riches in the metals and precious stones have con-
tributed chiefly to its celebrity. Certainly those ornaments which are
left cannot be much admired.

Its great altar, composed of silver, might as well be of lead, or
pewter, for all the show it makes. In a chapel on one side of the
building, there is a collection of portraits of the Archbishops. They
are good faces, well painted, and all are there but the one who at the
breaking out of the revolution, proved faithful to his sovereign and the
Spanish cause. They all have had the honour, except him, to be
interred in niches, in the crypt, under the great altar. Many of the

PERU.

coffins are open, exposing the dried-up remains of the saints, clothed
in leather jackets and shoes, which the sacristan made no difficulty
about disposing of for a trifle. Two skulls and a hand were obtained.
There is some good carving about the choir of the Cathedral.

A hospital is attached to this church. A novel sort of hearse was
seen employed here, with four drawers as temporary coffins.

HOSPITAL HEARSE.

The market of Lima is kept in an open square. Tt is a strange
place to visit, and the scene that is witnessed there cannot fail to
amuse the stranger. It is well supplied, and many purchasers fre-
quent it. There are no stalls, and mats are used in their stead. The
meat is laid on them in rows, and the vegetables heaped up in piles.
Some of the piles consist of only one kind, but they are generally all
mixed together. The meat, as at Callao, is cut with the grain, and
into small pieces, to suit the purchasers ; and poultry is cut up in a
similar manner. But what will most attract a stranger's notice, are
the cooking establishments. These are in great request ; stews, fries,
and olla podridas, are in constant preparation by some brawny dame,
who deals out, with much gravity and a business-like air, the small
pieces to the hungry Indians who stand by waiting for their turn. The
fried dishes seemed to claim their preference, if one could judge by
the number in waiting. The expertness of the woman who officiated
was truly wonderful, twisting and twirling the dough in her hand,
placing it upon a stick, dipping it in the hot oil, and slipping it as soon
as cooked dexterously into the dish for her customers. Then again
was a frier of pancakes close by, equally expert. The variety of
dishes cooking was surprising, and those who fried fish exhibited
undoubted proofs of their freshness, by consigning them to the pan
before they ceased to live.

I was surprised at the variety of fish, meats, vegetables, and fruits ;
the latter particularly. These were in season, and included oranges,

PERU. 241

cherimoyers, pomegranates, paltas, plantains, bananas, papaws, gra-
nadillas, apples, figs and ananas.

The above are the usual articles crowded into the market, but were
I to stop here, one half would not be told. All sorts of goods, jewelry,
cottons, woollens, laces, hardware, linen fabrics, handkerchiefs, shoes,
slippers, hats, &c., are hawked about by pedlers with stentorian lungs,
who, with the lottery-venders, with tickets, ink-horn, and pen, selling
the tickets in the name of the Holy Virgin and all the saints, make
an uproar that one can have little idea of, without mixing in or wit-
nessing it.

The convent of San Francisco occupies six or seven acres of
ground. In its days of prosperity it must have been a magnificent
establishment. Its chapels are very rich in gilding, carved work, &c.,
and the cloisters are ornamented with beautiful fountains and flower-
gardens. Part of it is now occupied by the soldiers as barracks, and
their muskets are stacked on the altar of one of its chapels. It has
long since been stripped of its riches and deserted, but it seems once
to have possessed all that wealth, luxury, and taste could effect or
suggest. The good Father Anculus, who showed the building, was
shrewd and obliging. The gallery of paintings contains it is said
many fine Murillos. The remains of its former splendour, even now,
justifies what Father Feiiillee asserted, that there was nothing of the
kind to compare with it in Europe. There are but few friars here at
present, but it is said to have formerly maintained five hundred, living
in the greatest luxury and licentiousness. The most remarkable object
in the church, was the shrine and image of a black Virgin Mary, with
a white infant Saviour in her arms.

The public library is composed of rare and valuable books, both in
French and Spanish, taken from the Jesuits' College and convents.
They are in good order, and among them are many manuscripts which
are beautifully illuminated. The librarian, a young priest, deserves our
thanks for his attention and civility.

The public museum has been but lately commenced. It contains a
collection of curious Peruvian antiquities^ some native birds, and the
portraits of all the Viceroys, from Pizarro down. At the cabildos or
city hall, are to be seen some of the archives of Lima, kept until
recently in good order. Many Signatures of the old Viceroys and
Governors are quite curious ; among others, that of Pizarro is shown.
As few of them could write, they adopted the Rubrica, made by
placing the finger of the left hand and making the flourish on each
side of it, the clerk filling in the name. This method has since been
generally adopted among the South Americans, in signing official

VOL. i. 31

242

PERU.

documents, being considered full as binding as if the name was
written.

The book in which the signatures were written, was entitled : —

LIBRO 10 DE LOS CABILDOS

DE ESTA CIUDAD DE LOS REYES,

QUE CORMIENZA,

EL ANO DE

This would make it appear that the city was founded a year before
the date given in Herrera, Garcilaso, Calancha, Montalvo, and others,
who dispute about the day of the month, without having regard to the
year. This book bears evidence that the municipality was organized
a year prior to that given by them as the year in which the city was
founded. Very little doubt can exist that the city must have been
founded before the municipality existed.

The theatre is a handsome building, although much out of repair.
It was brilliantly lighted the night we visited it, and was crowded with
numerous officers in full uniform. Among them were many Chilians
of rank. The ladies in the boxes were in full costume, and made a
great display of jewels. In the parterre there were many " tapadas."
The horrors of the Inquisition formed a prominent part of the subject
of the play. For the performance I cannot say much.

Near the Alameda, on the north side of the city, is a large oblong
enclosure of nearly eight acres, with thick stone walls, and a large
gateway at each end. It was intended for a naval school, and theatre
to exhibit sea-fights. It contains large reservoirs, which were intended
to be filled with water from the Rimac, to float a tiny fleet, some of
which it is said were actually constructed. This was a favourite
project with one of the last Viceroys, and a more absurd one could
scarcely have been conceived. The water is now used for a much
better purpose, namely, to turn the machinery of some adjacent mills.

There are three classes of inhabitants, viz.: whites, Indians, and

PERU. 243

negroes. The union of the two first produces the cholo; of the two
last, the zambo; and of the first and last, the mulatto. The Spaniards,
or whites, are a tall race, particularly the females. They have brown
complexions, but occasionally a brilliant colour, black hair and eyes.
Some of them are extremely beautiful. The cholos are shorter, but
well made, and have particularly small feet and hands. All classes of
people are addicted to the smoking of cigars, even in carriages and at
the dinner-table. It does not seem to be considered by any one as
unpleasant, and foreigners have adopted the custom.

The cholo women partake of the dark brown skin of the Indian,
have low figures, short round faces, high cheek-bones, good teeth, and
small hands and feet. Their whole figure is robust.

There does not appear to exist any accurate account of the popula-
tion of Peru; but it is generally believed to have decreased, particularly
as regards the whites and negroes. The best information gives but
little over a million inhabitants, viz. : about one hundred and twenty-
five thousand whites; natives and cholos, eight hundred thousand; with
ninety thousand negroes and ranchos, of whom about thirty-five
thousand are slaves. This does not vary much from the number given
by the geographies forty years ago. The country appears, from all
accounts, not only to have decreased in population, but to have
diminished in wealth and productiveness. A much less proportion of
the soil is now cultivated than formerly under the " Children of the
Sun."

There are half a dozen newspapers published in Lima, two of which
are issued daily. They are, like the Spanish, small sheets. They
have a good deal of control over public opinion. Few or no advertise-
ments are seen in them. These are deemed unnecessary in Lima,
and all the amusements, such as the theatre, cockfighting, &c., are pla-
carded on the portals. A high price is asked for the newspapers.

On the 30th of May there was a grand procession, on the festival
of Corpus Christi. It was preceded by a party of negroes, dressed in
the most gaudy colours, singing, dancing, and keeping time to a
native tune, somewhat like Mumbo Jumbo, to testify their joy that the
blessings of Christianity had reached them. Then followed some
priests, bearing lamps covered with artificial flowers, and swinging
censers. Next came the shrines of the Virgin and saints, covered
with tinsel and gold, mounted on large pedestals, and borne on the
shoulders of men. After this came the host, and on its passing every
one uncovered and kneeled down. Then came the military, who were
all out, and offered us a fine opportunity of viewing the recruits, the
greater proportion of whom were Indians. The government had been

«>44 PERU.

ferreting out the Indians in a manner hitherto unpractised. There was
much mixed blood among the Peruvian soldiers, cholos, zambos, and
some few negroes, while the Chilian troops had very little. Among
the Chilians, the regiment of Portales was pointed out, which had left
Chili six hundred strong, and was now reduced to four hundred.

During my stay at Lima, I had the pleasure of an introduction to
Mr. Mathews,* whose researches in natural history are so well known.
Combined with his being a good naturalist, he has great talent as an
artist. His portfolio contained many beautiful drawings of plants,
flowers, and birds, from beyond the Cordilleras. He owned an estate
of thirty miles square, at the foot of the eastern slope of the Cordilleras,
for which I think he had paid one thousand dollars. He is married to
a woman of the country, is extremely enthusiastic in his researches,
and has lately recovered some of the unpublished manuscripts of Ruiz
and Pavon.

There are several small manufactories of gold lace, &e., but nearly
all the goods sold and consumed in the country are foreign. Lima is
the great retail place. There has been lately set up a manufactory of
glass, but too recently to judge of its success. The mechanical employ-
ments are numerous, but all are in a rude state. When it is considered
that Lima was founded nearly a century before the settlement of our
own country, it shows a marked difference in favour of the enterprise
of the Anglo-Saxon race.

On St. John's day, (24th of June,) the patron saint of Lima, a great
festival among the lower classes — the cholos, natives, zambos, and
blacks — takes place. It is held in the valley of Amancaes, about three
miles north of the city. Previous to the day, a number of tents and
booths are erected in the valley, which is about half a mile long, and
one-third of a mile wide. These are decked out with flags and
banners. There are tents for refreshments, strong drinks, dancing,
gambling, &c., in every direction.

On the road leading to this scene are erected shrines of the saint,
where all who pass are expected to pay their contributions.

On this day, every horse and vehicle in Lima is engaged, and at
exorbitant rates. The whole road leading to the valley is crowded
from an early hour in the morning. The higher classes generally
frequent it early and return soon, while those of the middle and lower
classes continue to keep it up until a late hour. Every one is decked
with the flowers of the Pancratium Amancaes, which grows in great

* In the death of this gentleman, science has lost one of her most zealous and enthusi
astic labourers.

PERU.

abundance in the place where the festival is held ; and the decoration
extends even to the horses and mules, as well as to the booths and
vehicles. As the day advances, the crowd increases. No 4th of July
in our own country could equal the uproarious drunkenness that ensues.

Dancing is the favourite amusement. The dance in which they most
delight is a national one, called the samacueca, and no words can give
an idea of its vulgarity and obscenity. I think it a happy circumstance
that it is confined to this country. One Amancaes' day would upturn
a whole year of morals. As intoxication ensues, it goes to extreme
lengths. Italia, or rather, pisco, is pledged to every one, and many
are seen with bottle and glass passing about, arid pledging happiness
and prosperity, in the hope of getting a small reward. The music to
which they dance consists of a small guitar, accompanied with the
voice, and beating of time ; the time is quite monotonous, somewhat
resembling the Spanish seguidilla. The crowd is great, consisting of
cholos, zambos, negroes, and whites, variously dressed and jumbled
together ; 'some singing, some begging, fighting, swearing, laughing;
no order, all confusion. This is the centre of the fray. On the out-

246 PERU

skirts are seen groups of the better classes, sitting down to their
pic-nics.

The acting President and Governor of Lima, Lafuente and stnfF,
honoured the place with their presence, to please the people. He did
not, however, appear to receive any honours, nor was his arrival
greeted with marks of approbation or enthusiasm. Towards evening,
when the inebriated mass is returning, the great sport of the day
occurs. The cholo women, who ride astride, are remarkably good
horsewomen, and extremely expert in managing their horses. Their
dress is peculiar: a large broad-brimmed hat, with flowing ribands of
gay colours, short spencer or jacket of silk, a gaudy calico or painted
muslin skirt, silk stockings, blue, pink, or white satin shoes, and over
the whole is sometimes worn a white poncho. Large wooden stirrups,
ornamented with silver, numerous pillions, a saddle-cloth, and richly
ornamented bridle, all decked with amancaes, form the caparison of
the steeds.

Nothing can exceed the confusion of the return of this great throng,
moving over a dusty road, shouting and racing. The cholo women
are always on the lead, and actively engaged in taking care of their
drunken partners, who are frequently seen mounted behind them, with
their faces flushed from the effects of pisco, forming an odd contrast
to the beautiful yellow flowers that adorn their hats. The great feat
of the women who ride single, is to unhorse their companions, which
they frequently succeed in doing, to the great amusement and sport of
the pedestrians, and the discomfiture of their male associates. They
are seen while at full gallop to stop suddenly, whirl round two or three
times, and go off again at full speed, covering themselves and the
bystanders with dust. Just before reaching the city, the road is lined
with vehicles, not unlike our cabs, in which are seated ladies in full
costume.

The Alameda, as well as the streets leading into it, is crowded on
this occasion with all the fashion of the city. Though the crowd
would lead to the belief that every body was abroad, yet the doors
and windows are filled with heads, more or less decorated with
amancaes. This is a festival nowhere surpassed in drunkenness and
uproar.

Most of the buildings in Lima have suffered more or less from
earthquakes. It was the season of earthquakes during our stay, and
three were felt. Some of our gentlemen complained of a sickening
sensation during the first. It did not, however, do much damage.
The second took place on the 5th of June, and was sensibly felt ; a
third was experienced on the 10th of June, with a continued shaking

PERU.

247

of the walls and floors. The last was reported as having been more
severe to the northward. At lea, an official statement reported that
about one thousand jars of pisco had been broken. They are usually
set up on end in contact with each other, and contain from seven to
ten gallons each. It is truly surprising how long the churches have
stood, with their lofty towers. Curious effects have been produced in
some places. Two conical adobe caps of the Franciscan convent
have been shifted from their places ; one as if by a rotary motion or
force apparently in a direction from left to right ; the other is turned
half round, and seems ready to fall. Another instance was noted
at the gateway of the naval school before spoken of. A large block
has been turned one-fourth round, while those under it remain in
place.

These adobe blocks have generally a large iron rod running through
them. A representation of the latter is given in the annexed figure.

GATEWAY OF THE NAVAL SCHOOL.

With the name of Peru the want of moisture is generally associated.
The general impression is that it never rains there. This, however, is
far from being strictly true, except in certain parts of it. Were it
not, however, for irrigation by the mountain streams, a great portion
of Peru would certainly become nearly a desert. Indeed, the upland
is so now, not yielding any herbage whatever until the pasture region
of the Cordilleras is reached. We are not to imagine, however, that
the atmosphere is very clear, or that sunshine always prevails. It is
extremely difficult to get a clear day. Father Feiiillee has put upon
record, more than a century ago, that the heavens were generally
obscured. I can bear testimony to the truth of this remark, for
although a glimpse of the sun was usually had some time during the
day, yet it was almost as difficult to get equal altitudes at Callao
during our stay as it was at Terra del Fuego.

248 PERU.

The dew (almozo) of Lima is never so great as to produce running
water, yet it is more like rain than a Scotch mist.

The peculiarity of there being no rain, has been accounted for in
several ways, but not to me satisfactorily. The prevailing cold and
dry winds from the southward sweep over the western shores of the
continent ; having a great capacity for moisture, they absorb it as they
advance to the northward, from every thing. On reaching the latitude
of 12° S., they cease, and having become saturated, now rise to a
sufficient height, where they are condensed by the cold strata, and
again deposited on the mountains in almost constant rains. This will
account for the aridity in the high Cordilleras of Chili, as well as for
the existence of the Desert of Atacama, the want of rain on the coast
of Upper Peru ; and at the same time, for the moisture of the high
Cordilleras of Peru, which will be shortly spoken of. It will be remem-
bered that our parties on the Cordilleras of Chili found the aridity to
increase on ascending, to the very edge of the perpetual snow, and all
the plants were of a thorny character.

The records of Lima mention the falling of rain only four times in
the eighteenth century, and the occurrence of thunder and lightning an
equal number of times. But this applies to a small part of Peru only,
namely, the country bordering the coast, some fifty or sixty miles in
width, around Lima. It will be seen that our party who visited the
interior, when at the height of ten thousand feet, entered a region sub-
ject to rain, and on the crest of the mountains the soil was kept
perfectly moist by the frequent snows and rain.

Mr. Bartlett, our Charge d'Affaires, gave me the range of the ther-
mometer at Lima throughout the year, as being from 60° to 85° ; during
our stay, which was in their winter months of May and June, the range
was from 65° to 69°.

Fire is not used often, but from the continual dampness there is a
cold and clammy feeling, that is exceedingly uncomfortable and preju-
dicial to health. Lima has certainly the reputation of being a healthy
place — how obtained I know not — but it certainly does not deserve
it. The interments have annually averaged over three thousand five
hundred, in a population amounting by the best accounts to no more
than forty-five thousand. Many of these deaths are those of strangers,
and the climate has always been fatal to the Indians.

During our stay at Callao, the temperature of the air varied from
57° to 63°. On July 4th, it stood at the same point in both places. The
temperature of the Rimac on the llth of June, was 69° to 71°, on the
4th July, 64°.

The Rimac derives its waters exclusively from the snows of the

PERU. 249

Cordilleras. It is a mountain torrent throughout its whole course. The
quantity of water in it is small. The width at its mouth is about thirty
feet, and one foot deep. It has not sufficient force to break a passage
through the beach to the sea, and the water filters through the pebbly soil.

In Peru, when the land is irrigated, it is one continued vegetation
throughout the year. Harvests are gathered in every season, and
flowers and fruit may be seen at the same time. On the east side of the
Cordilleras the harvest lakes place about the middle of June. Tarma
and Jauja are the first cultivated districts. The " montanas," as they
call the forests, are situated at the eastern base of the Andes. Their
crest is estimated to be thirty or forty leagues from the coast, and it is
about fifteen leagues farther to the montanas. The thermometer during
the jaunt to the Cordilleras ranged from 50° to the freezing point of
Fahrenheit.

During our visit, the Chilian troops were in possession of the country,
and Lima was garrisoned by them. They were a sickly and worn-out
body of men, the tertiana prevailing to a great extent among them.
They were apparently well clad, new clothing having been issued to
them at the expense of the Peruvian treasury. They were all, I was
told, extremely anxious to return to Chili. Although the nominal power
was in the President, Gamarra, or the acting Governor, Lafuente, until
his arrival, yet Bulnes commanded and watched over their proceedings.
The Peruvians are to all intents and purposes a conquered people,
although they profess to think the Chilians their friends, and say that
the war was only against Santa Cruz and his policy. No favourable
accounts can now be given of the state of Peru. A want of confidence
exists every where. The government is bankrupt in principle and
funds. The tenure of property is uncertain, and oppression, extortion,
and want of principle have brought the country to the verge of ruin.
The people are harassed by the frequent changes ; and the government, a
military, and constantly changing one, gives rise to all kinds of disorder.
This is to be imputed to the ambition of the various rulers or generals,
who endeavour to keep old and little understood controversies in con-
tinual agitation, for their own benefit. Revolution is the order of the
day. One broke out again in Payta a few days before we sailed, and
Peru was raising troops to attack Bolivia.

The manner of recruiting the army is not unlike the employment of
press-gangs in England. They scour the country far and near for
recruits, and if not obtained, compel every poor Indian met with, to
serve against his will. Agriculture, and every other kind of honest
industry, has fallen into disrepute, if not into entire neglect, and the
whole country is left in a continued state of anarchy and confusion.

VOL. i. 32

ar>o PERU.

Yet, extraordinary as it may seem, one would never suspect, from the
outward appearance of its inhabitants, that the country could be in
such a state. All their pastimes go on as usual. Among these, the
festivals of the church are most conspicuous ; for they yet claim the
outward respect of all, both high and low, and constitute the only
bond that holds society together. All are subservient to the rites of
the church. Even the Chilian general officers dismount and kneel
when the procession passes; and all the different guards, with their
officers, not only give the military salute, but also drop on their knees.

I was much struck with the sight of a mistress and her slave, who
had followed her to the cathedral, kneeling on the same piece of cloth,
telling their beads, and saying their prayers together. This I was toid
was quite common. It seemed a tacit acknowledgment that religion
reduced all to the same level. From what I could learn, the slaves
are treated with great kindness.

During our stay here, we had the misfortune to lose one of the
marines, Benjamin Holden, who had been transferred but a few days
from the Relief to the Peacock. He was interred at San Lorenzo.
One of the servants on board :he Peacock, a boy, was discovered to
have the small-pox. He was immediately removed to a tent at San
Lorenzo, and every thing provided for him, until he could be sent to
Lima, Mr. Bartlett, our consul, having procured permission for his
removal there.

Every precaution against this disease had been taken, by vaccina-
ting the crews after leaving the United States.

I felt great uneasiness, lest we might carry it with us to the Islands,
where it might spread among the natives, and render our visit ever
memorable by the introduction of that dreadful scourge. All the
clothing, and every thing that had been in any way connected with
the sick boy or his nurses, was destroyed, in the hopes of rendering
us exempt from the contagion.

CHAPTER XIII.

CONTENTS.

A PARTY FOR THE INTERIOR— PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY— PASSPORTS— MR.
UIGGS— DEPARTURE— EFFECT OF OFFICIAL PAPERS— FACE OF COUNTRY— RUINS OF
INCA TOWNS— PONCHORUA— CABALLEROS— CONVOY OF SILVER— ACCOMMODATIONS—
EARTHQUAKE — ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF CAXAVILLO — FACE OF COUNTRY— ST.
ROSA DE QUIVI— YASO— OBRAJILLO— DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING MULES— BEAUTY
OF SITUATION — LLAMAS — RIOTERS — PLUNDERING OF INHABITANTS— CULNAI — LA
VINDA — VEGETATION — MULETEERS ENCOUNTERED — REACH THE CREST OF THE
CORD1LLER AS — CASA CANCHA— ITS ACCOMMODATIONS — COOKING-RANGE—SICKNESS
OF PARTY— SNOW-STORM— ALPAMARCA— COMPANY OF PERUVIANS — THEIR ATTEN-
TIONS—PROCESS OF AMALGAMATION OF ORE — MR. SEVAN — VISIT TO THE MINE
—FACE OF THE MOUNTAIN — ROAD — BANGS — HOT SPRING — BEAUTY OF VALLEY-
VEGETATION— THREATENED ATTACK OF A CONDOR— PORTRAIT— INCIDENTS RELA-
TING TO IT — DESCRIPTION OF BANGS — ITS HABITATIONS — STATE OF HORSES —
RETURN TO CASA CANCHA— CHILIAN CONVOY FROM PASCO— PASCO— MINES— VEINS
OF ORE— NUMBER OF MINES IN OPERATION— LAWS IN RELATION TO SILVER MINED—
DUTIES— HILL OF RACO— NEW SPECULATIONS IN 1S40— DIFFICULTIES IN PURCHASING
MINES — THE POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY ADVERSE TO THIS BUSINESS —
TEMPERATURE — BEAUTY OF SITUATION OF CASA CANCHA — THEIR DEPARTURE ON
THEIR RETURN— LINE OF PERPETUAL SNOW— AMMONITE— CH1CRINE— TRAVELLING
PARTIES— FRENCHMAN— HIS COMPLIMENTS— CULNAI— CULTIVATION — HOSPIT ALITY—
OBRAJILLO — ACCOMMODATIONS — WANT OF GALLANTRY — GUIDES— SETTLEMENT —
BRIDAL PARTY— YASO — ROBBERY — YANGA — HOSTESS — ANGELITA — CABALLEROS —
RETURN TO LIMA— BOTANICAL REVIEW— GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY
—FLYING-FISH SENT TO PACHACAMAC — LANDING — TEMPLE — TOWN — TOMBS— THEIR
CONTENTS— EMBARKATION-RI-.Ti'KX TO CALLAO.

CHAPTER XIII.

PERU — CONTINUED.
1839.

ON the arrival of the Relief at Callao, Messrs. Pickering, Rich,
Agate, and Brackenridge, requested permission to make a jaunt to the
Cordilleras of Peru, for the purpose of making botanical collections.
I felt much gratified that this object had been effected, although I
could not but regret that they were suffered to depart without the
necessary instruments for obtaining the altitudes, which had been put
on board the Relief at Orange Harbour, for that very purpose.

Mr. Rich spoke the Spanish language well, which afforded the
party many facilities for overcoming the difficulties that were thrown
in their way.

In Lima the journey was considered as a very serious undertaking,
arid likely to be attended with much danger, from the banditti who
frequent the route they intended to pass over, — that to the mines of
Pasco. Through the friendly assistance of Mr. Biggs, of the house of
Messrs. Bartlett & Co., every thing was made easy. By his advice,
they supplied themselves, not only with blankets and horse-furniture,
but with all sorts of provisions, and particularly with bread, of which
they took as much as they could carry, notwithstanding the country
was described as well inhabited. As a preliminary step, it was
necessary to provide themselves with passports, for which they lost no
time in applying. After the delay of a day, the passports came in the
form of a letter of protection and recommendation from Lafuente him-
self, to the local authorities throughout all Peru, couched in the most
liberal terms, and treating the affair with as much importance as if it
were a national one. It is a regulation that the names of all who
receive passports, shall be published in the official gazette; their
intention, therefore, became known to all Lima. From the few who

(M)

254 PER U.

are gazetted, it would appear that but a small number travel into the
interior, or else that the regulation is not very strictly complied with.

The injunction to render the party assistance in case of need was
very strong, and among other things specified to be furnished, was
clothing, which was thought to look somewhat ominous in this country
of banditti. In spite of the positive terms in which the passport was
expressed, it was found of little effect in procuring them mules or
horses ; and it was not till after much trouble and disappointment on
many sides, that horses were at last obtained from the post establish-
ment.

On the 16th May they were ready to set out, and were accompanied
for some miles by Mr. Biggs, whose friendly advice and assistance
they had often, during the jaunt, reason to be thankful for. It saved
them much inconvenience, and was the cause of their being provided
with many little comforts, without which they would have suffered
privation.

Their proposed route was up the valley of the Rio de Caxavillo,
the river next to the northward of the Rimac. Leaving Lima, they
passed through the suburbs of San Lazaro, at the gate of which, and
for the only time during the journey, they were desired to show their
passports. Some little difficulty arose, and an intention was expressed
to unload the baggage-mule for examination. This, however, was
soon removed by the reading of the passport, and the examination
ended in many bows, and the repeated exclamation, "Go on, go on!
God speed you !" Such was the talismanic effect of an official docu-
ment, at the period of our visit.

After leaving the city, their route lay along the margin of the
extensive plain that borders on the sea, at the foot and over the low
hills which skirt it. Many columns of dust and loose particles of sand
were seen rising from the heated plain, stirred by the action of the
wind, forming vortices of considerable diameter and elevation. Clouds
of smoke, too, were visible in the distance, proceeding, according to
the information of their guides, from the burning of the cane-brakes.
The Peruvian willow, so much resembling the Lombardy poplar in its
form, was much admired, and the contrast in the landscape between
the barren clay-coloured hills, and the bright green of the irrigated
fields, was quite remarkable.

At the distance of three leagues from Lima, they passed through
the ruins of an Inca town, situated (as they uniformly found them
afterwards) just on the border of the irrigated valley. The walls of
the town were very thick, built of mud and unburnt brick, at right
angles, very much after the modern manner; the hills, also, were seen

PERU. 255

covered with the ruins of Indian buildings, some of them resembling
fortifications.

They now turned up a beautiful valley, on the irrigated fields of
which were seen herds of horned cattle, horses, and goats, — a proof
that the irrigated land is not exclusively used for tillage.

At six leagues from Lima they reached Ponchorua, the first stop-
ping-place ; but the party concluded to go a league beyond it to
Caballeros, where they passed the night. They arrived there in
sufficient time to make a short excursion to the banks of the Rio de
Caxavillo, which appeared a larger stream than the Rimac.

Around Caballeros are very extensive meadows and fields of clover.
The posada was found occupied by the guard and muleteers who
acted as a convoy of silver from Pasco. They gave up the only room
in the house for our gentlemen, into which they were shown, and
where a good supper was provided for them, while the guard took
up their quarters in the yard. The metal, it was observed, was in
large masses of pifia, some of them heavy enough to be a load for a
mule, and an inconvenient burden to run away with.

They passed the night on the tables and rude seats, under cover, — a
luxury they had not yet learned to appreciate.

At midnight they felt the shock of an earthquake. A distant hollow
sound was at first heard, which seemed to approach, increasing
rapidly, and before they could spring to their feet, the house was rolled
and shaken as if it had been on an agitated sea. Mr. Rich says that
it was with difficulty he could hold himself on the table where he had
been lying. The natives of the adjoining huts ran out into the road,
uttering horrible shrieks, striking their breasts, and offering up prayers
to the Holy Virgin to protect them. The shock continued severe for
forty seconds, but lasted altogether about two minutes ; it produced a
slight nausea, like sea-sickness, which continued for some time after-
wards, and a bewildering sensation, that rendered it difficult to collect
their ideas to speak. The sound resembled that produced by throwing
stones over precipices, so as to roll on hollow ground beneath. This
earthquake was the most violent that had been experienced for some
time, and was felt sensibly at Lima and through all Lower Peru. No
material damage was done, — in consequence, according to the people
of the country, of its not getting to the surface.

Early on the 17th the party set out up the dry mountain valley,
the soil of which is composed of stones and loose powdery earth.
This kind of ground continued for five leagues, with not a drop of
water, nor was a plant or bird collected ; nothing was seen growing
but a few Tillandsias. On this route they passed many crosses, mark-

256 PERU.

ing the spots where there had been loss of life : a sight that was not
calculated to excite pleasing thoughts, and bringing to mind not only
the great number of murders that had taken place, but the daily
occurrence of attacks upon small parties of travellers by the despera-
does of Peru.

Immediately on the confines of this dreary waste is Yanga, a
deserted-looking place, but having some good gardens and orchards.
At noon they reached Santa Rosa de Quivi, a small place, where they
procured some good fruit. After travelling two leagues, they at dark
reached Yaso, and stopped at the postmaster's house; he was not at
home, but they were permitted to sleep in the porch or veranda. No-
thing edible was to be found in the village, except a few potatoes, after
supping on which they disposed themselves on the clay and stones,
with their arms ready for service, — a precaution necessary at times,
even in the most frequented places, in Peru.

During the day, they had been much annoyed by sand-flies, and
fleas were as usual in myriads at night ; besides these, they had a few
musquitoes, but the latter are seldom felt in Peru.

The screaming of parrots during the night had announced that
some change had taken place in the vegetation. In the morning they
found this to be the case. The land in the vicinity of the town was
cultivated, and some good orchards and fields of clover were seen ;
the mountains, which had hitherto been gray with Tillandsias, had
now assumed a greenish tinge. Agaves made their appearance here,
and a few miles beyond, the hills became entirely green : all showed
that a different region had been entered. The inclined roofs of the
huts proved that rains were experienced, and that it was found neces-
sary by the inhabitants to protect themselves from them.

The valley had now become more contracted, and level ground was
seldom seen ; the mountains increased in elevation, the roads and
scenery partaking of the character of Madeira. Cascades were seen
springing from almost the very summits of the high peaks; cattle were
grazing, and occasional cultivated patches were mingled with the
pasture-grounds ; the aid of irrigation was no longer necessary ; and
the Cordillera plants of the Flora Peruviana, with the vegetation made
known by Humboldt and Bonpland, were recognised. At noon, after
travelling six leagues, they reached Obrajillo, the rendezvous of the
two celebrated Spanish botanists, Ruiz and Pavon, authors of the
Flora Peruviana.

There are three towns, Obrajillo, Canta, and San Miguel, about a
mile distant from each other, said to contain three or four thousand
inhabitants. At Obrajillo, the general to whom they had letters of

PERU. 257

introduction, was not at home; some difficulty in getting mule;
occurred in consequence, and it was not until much time and patience
had been exhausted, that our gentlemen understood the real difficulty,
which was, that the horses they had brought from the low country
were not considered capable of standing the cold and fatigue of the
mountains, the owners at Lima having refused to allow their mules to
cross the mountains. They were assisted in procuring mules and
guides by the general's son.

Obrajillo, the largest of the three towns, contains about one hundred
cottages. It has a stone church, with two towers, apparently of some
age, which fronts on the open square. The dwellings are of one story,
without floors, and almost without furniture ; yet it is said to be the
residence of many wealthy people. How true this may be, it was
impossible from appearances to determine, for the high and low, the
rich and the poor, all seem to live in the same style.

The difficulties that occurred in procuring mules for their journey,
had delayed them so long as to place it out of their power to proceed
/>eibre the next day. The opportunity of visiting the environs was
taken, and a large collection of plants was obtained, the annuals being
found in the right season for making collections. The cascade which
was seen as they approached, was visited, and exhibited a picturesque
and beautiful appearance, even when it was four miles distant.

At Obrajillo there are many pretty gardens and fields, under a good
state of cultivation. The roadside itself looked like a flower-garden,
and flowers of almost every hue were seen on either side, Calceolarias,
Lobelias, &c.

Here was the first point where they had met the llama used as a
beast of burden ; the load which they carry is from seventy to ninety
pounds.

On the 19th, at an early hour, some vagabonds, assuming the name
of Chilians, went the rounds of the village, helping themselves to
every thing they desired, to the utter dismay of the inhabitants, who
made no resistance. The consequence was, that having neglected to
supply themselves with bread the evening before, they lost the oppor-
tunity of doing it. This was a serious inconvenience, for Obrajillo
supplies the upper country with bread, as Lima does the lower, and it
is procured with difficulty, except at these two places. Potatoes were
therefore taken as a substitute, though a very inconvenient one, from
their great weight and bulk.

They were on the route by six o'clock, and an hour's ride brought
ihem to a spot where the river formed a very picturesque rapid, soon

VOL. i. 33

260 PERU.

the cooking is done with turf, when it can be obtained, but dry cow-
dung is most commonly used for this purpose. This is the only and
the best establishment the place affords ; even the first females in the
country can procure no better accommodations, and will bear it for the
night with contentment.

As a special mark of distinction, a smaller apartment was assigned
to our gentlemen, in a hut adjoining that in which their supper was
cooked, of which they witnessed the preparation. The cooking range
was of peculiar construction, and might serve as a pattern for a modern
cuisine. It occupied one corner of the apartment, and appeared to be
convenient and well adapted to the wants of the inmates. The vignette
on the preceding page is a representation of it and the occupant.

After a time the fore-quarter of mutton made its appearance, in the
hands of their landlady, scorched to a cinder. Being unprovided with
a knife, she began to tear it into small pieces with her fingers. Our
gentlemen remonstrated, but nothing would stop her until nearly every
morsel of it had passed through her dirty hands. This, added to her
state of intoxication, caused some of them to lose their supper from
sheer disgust, though all agreed that she carved or tore it into pieces in
a most dexterous manner.

After supper they were informed by their guides, in much conster-
nation, that a band of Chilian marauders were approaching ; the whole
establishment was in great uproar. The party, however, proved to be
a convoy. The officer in charge was civil, and engaged freely in con-
versation on the pending contest between Chili and Peru.

During the night the party were very much troubled with headache
and difficulty in breathing; they passed an uncomfortable night on the
clay floor. The thermometer in the doorway stood in the morning
at 33°.

Casa Cancha is in a valley surrounded by lofty mountains. Its
height, upon the authority of a gentleman at Lima, is fourteen thousand
five hundred feet above the level of the sea. Pasturage in its vicinity
is good ? sheep and cattle are abundant : bread and potatoes are brought
over the mountains from Obrajillo; of these they have oftentimes but a
scanty supply, which was the case at this period. The evening previous
to their arrival a theft had taken place there, — a gentleman had had his
fire-arms stolen ; a great loss when one takes into consideration the
nature of the country, and the dangers to be encountered in travelling.

On the morning of the 20th, with one exception, they were all
affected with vomiting, headache, and fever, and still suffering much
from difficulty in breathing ; this is usually felt on first visiting these
elevated regions, and is said to be particularly so at night.

PERU. 261

The morning proved so boisterous, with frequent hail-showers, that
they determined to remain the day, to rest their mules and recruit them-
selves. Their breakfast was more acceptable than the last night's
supper ; it consisted of olla-podrida and milk.

As the weather allowed them to botanize, they set out in two parties,
but had not been occupied over two hours, before they were overtaken
by a severe snow-storm, which entirely covered up all small plants, and
made it difficult for them to scale the rocks.

On the 21st, they had determined to proceed to Banos, which, from
the description of their guides, who were ignorant, however, of the
route beyond Casa Cancha, they had been led to believe was on the
eastern slope of the mountain.

They started at an early hour, with the wild geese flying and feeding
around them, determining to visit Alpamarca, which is distant from
Casa Cancha about two leagues ; but owing to their guides being unac-
quainted with the paths, they were led about among the mountains, and
over extensive plains, covered with coarse herbage. A variety of
beautiful flowers were found, and many domesticated llamas were seen
feeding. At eleven o'clock they stumbled, as if by accident, on the
place, consisting of a number of huts ; one of these showed the welcome
sign of bread for sale, viz., a basket stuck upon a long pole ; and they
were fortunate in procuring some small rolls.

Alpamarca proved to be in the vicinity of a silver mine, and here
they found a goodly company of Peruvian gentlemen, collected from
various quarters, and among them the general to whom they had
brought letters to Obrajillo. They were received with great kindness
and attention; the company insisted upon their dismounting, and gave
them the cheer they had prepared for themselves, which was readily
partaken of. It was served in a large gourd-shell, and consisted of a
Spanish hotch-potch, or olla, with carrots, pot-garlic, pepper, and small
bits of mutton. It was observed, as the eatables were disappearing,
that the Spanish Dons now and then would partake of the tidbits by
reaching over their shoulders from behind. This repast was well
timed, for our party had been fasting sufficiently long to enable them to
do ample justice to it.

On further examination, the hut proved to be provided with some few
of the necessaries of life, although the supply was not large.

The Peruvians sent for the superintendent of the mine, and in the
mean time showed the process of extracting the silver, which was as
follows : the ore is broken up until it resembles earth ; it is then thrown
into a large round vat and mixed with mercury and water ; six or
eight mules are then turned in and driven round and round, until the

262 PERU.

amalgam is formed ; it is then put into a vessel, and stirred with water
until the earth mixes with it, and the water being poured off, leaves the
amalgam, whence the mercury is finally evaporated.

The ore appears to be taken almost entirely from the surface. It is
poor, and the mines do not yield much profit. There are many old
veins that have been extensively worked, but owing to their depth have
been abandoned.

The superintendent arrived after a while ; he proved to be an English
miner (Mr. U. Bevan), who had been twenty years in the country. He
was delighted to see our parly, saying that an American and English-
man were all the same in Peru, and that he had not heard his own
language spoken for two years. He informed them that the old
Spaniards had worked the mines cheaper than any one has been able
to do since. They were large landholders, and contrived to keep them-
selves in debt to their tenants ; this they always paid in manufactured
goods, very much in demand with the Indians who worked the mines,
thus making a double profit on the wages. At the present time the
mines are worked by Indians of a mixed blood, who have a language
of their own. They are much addicted to the use of coca (the leaf of
the Erythroxylon coco, which is mixed and masticated with " Quinoa")
and without a supply of this leaf they will not work.

Mr. Bevan took the party to the mine, which is some distance up
the mountain. Much difficulty was experienced in breathing the
rarefied atmosphere, and great fatigue in walking, so much so, that it
was necessary to stop every few steps to rest; and what was sur-
prising, Mr. Bevan and the Indians who accompanied them, appeared
to be more affected than any of the party. He assured them it was the
same, even with the Indians born on the spot, showing that neither
time nor other circumstances can acclimatize a constitution to this
elevated region. On reaching the mouth of the mine, they saw several
emaciated and ghastly-looking Indians seated near the entrance ; they
descended a few yards into it, but found that time would not admit of
the delay necessary to pass down to the places where they were at work ;
and wishing to devote their attention to the interesting region of botany
in which they then were, they gave up their purpose of descending.

On no part of their journey did they find so many remarkable plants
as on this mountain ; for information respecting these, the reader is
referred to the Botanical Report.

Towards the middle of the afternoon they returned to the hut, when
they determined to proceed to Banos. Previous to leaving Alpamarca,
they had some difficulty with the guides, who were dissatisfied with
their bargain ; it therefore required some management to prevent them

. i i . r L . Wi i E#I t &: Hatch, s clip*

PERU. 203

from deserting altogether, and caused our gentlemen some fear lest
they might be compelled to return ; but after much dispute, the guides
consented to proceed, although it must be allowed that the bargain
was far from being advantageous to them.

Along the road to Baiios they passed some high ridges, with snow
and ice coming at times down to the path ; also lakes in deep ravines,
somewhat resembling small craters, which, like all the rest they had
seen, were tenanted by numerous water-fowl.

The crest of the Andes did not appear here quite so broad as it had
been found to be four leagues to the southward, but its elevation was
thought to be greater. The contiguous ranges of snowy peaks, in the
direction of Pasco, w7ere very striking. The Indians have names for
all the most remarkable ones, but the Spaniards embrace the whole,
together with the principal one, under the name of La Vinda.

From the direction of the descent to the northward and westward,
they began to suspect they were descending upon the western slope of
the Cordilleras instead of the eastern ; this proved to be the case,
which was no small disappointment, as it was their original intention
to reach the wooded district on the eastern slope, termed " montanas."
In this they were therefore disappointed. As they proceeded, the
country improved, the climate became milder, and the soil richer; on
their way they crossed a small stream, which was said to be the
source of the river Chancai.

At dark they reached Bafios, which is computed to be upwards of
five leagues from Casa Cancha. Banos is considered to be at about
the same elevation as Culnai, but the descent is more rapid to the
former. According to the custom of the country, they applied to the
alcalde for accommodations, who is obliged, according to law, to fur-
nish travellers with a house, if the town should possess none for the
use of strangers, free of expense, and to provide them with a cook ;
the travellers buy their own provisions, and pay for the cooking, one
real for each dish.

Bafios is celebrated for its mineral hot springs, from which it
derives its name; they flow from the base of a high mountain.

The town consists of about thirty houses, and a church, of which
the inhabitants are very proud. It is a neat village, situated in a deep
ravine, by the side of a tumbling stream, bounded on both sides by
mountains three thousand feet high. The mountain sides appear so
precipitous, that the remark was made by one of the party, " that he
could not conceive why the cattle that were feeding on their sides did
not fall off."

Along the margin of the stream, carnations, pinks, stock gilly-

266 PERU.

people of Peru, notwithstanding they are surrounded with every thing
to make them comfortable, want the knowledge and industry to use the
advantages nature has given them.

On the 23d they left Banos on their return. Notwithstanding their
horses had had some rest, their backs were in a shocking state, but the
sores did not seem to be regarded much by the guides, who applied
soap to them ; they scolded and blamed the English saddles, which
they called " Gallapagos turtles."

The party had determined to make another visit to Alpamarca, but
the guides would not listen to it, giving as a reason that they should
have their horses stolen if they went. While this discussion was
going on, they met a person who informed them that the only persons
now there were Indians. As their only inducement to return was the
agreeable company they had left, they acceded to their guides' views,
and taking another direction, arrived at Casa Cancha in the afternoon.
At night some Chilian cavalry arrived,which caused great alarm among
the occupants of the huts and the guides, for fear of losing their horses,
a disaster which they said often occurred when such visitors came.
The commander proved to be a gentlemanly person, and rendered our
party much assistance. This party had left Pasco, the chief mining
place of Lower Peru, in the morning, and represented it as a place of
considerable trade, containing many foreign residents, including English,
American, French, and German. He stated that the Quichua language
was spoken there, and that the Spanish was not commonly understood.

The town of Pasco is at an elevation of thirteen thousand feet, and
situated in the plain of San Juan, at the head of two ravines or gullies,
one called Rumiallana, leading to the northward, and the other
Huanuco, to the eastward, where the two great veins of Colquijirca and
Pariajirca unite. These are supposed to extend some seventy miles in
length, and the town of Pasco is situated at their junction, a plot of
which, taken from the survey of Mr. Trevithick, is given on the next
page. The part of the ground that has been broken up, and in which ores
have been found, is about half a mile in length in a north and south direc-
tion, and about one-fourth of a mile east and west. Within the whole of
this extent, ores have been mined of greater or less value, and the mines
formerly worked and now deserted are said to amount to upwards of a
thousand : some of these are represented on the plan by round marks.

The town of Pasco is surrounded on three sides — northeast and
south by hills of blue limestone ; on the west the hills are of sandstone,
and on the southwest of a blue slate. Through the latter rock the adit
which comes up from the lake of Quilacocha has been driven, until it
reached the metalliferous ground in the district of Santa Rosa. All

PERU.

267

the ores of the Cerro are ferruginous, and the silver nearest to the
surface is contained in an ochreous iron-stone. In particular spots the
silver is found mixed with lead and copper, and at variable depths in
different localities the ores rest on a bed of solid iron pyrites, which in
some mines yield silver and in others not.

Although there appeared to be two veins, crossing each other at
right angles, yet strictly speaking there is but one, the great vein of
Colquijirca. This vein comes in from the hill of Uliachim, on the south
of the town, and runs through the whole metalliferous ground to the
edge of the plain of San Juan on the north.

On the course of this lode, generally speaking, the richest ores are
met with. On each side of the vein an extensive deposit of ore is
generally found, with little regard to the ordinary regularity of metal-
liferous formation.

The plain of San Juan is divided into many mining districts, to which
names are given to distinguish them more readily. The southernmost
of these is called Zauricocha, and contains several mines, from which
great wealth has been produced since the revolution. This is the region
from which all the richest ores have been produced, and it has been
always looked upon as the most important district in the Cerro. It is
believed that farther south, between this point and the hill of Uliachim,
some good ores exist ; but no attempt has yet been made to mine there.

268 PER U.

In the district of Santa Rosa, lying west of Zauricocha, the greatest
quantity of ore has been raised : it has been worked down to the level
of the adit ; and in several mines, where good ore has been discovered,
they have descended to a lower level, drainage having been effected by
hand-pumping.

On the east of the Zauricocha is the district called Arenillapata,
in which few mines are now worked ; the ore which is produced,
although abundant in particular spots, is not rich.

Immediately within the town there are some few mines that are
good, but there has never been any extensive work carried on. It is
believed that profitable ore yet remains to be discovered.

Cayac, another district lying north of Zauricocha, is worked to
some profit ; the upper adit from the northwest reaches it, and several
mines in it have been yielding good returns.

To the north of Cayac are the Chucarillo and Zauracancha dis-
tricts, the working of the mines in which had been impeded by water
accumulated since the breaking out of the revolutionary war. The
upper adit, leading from the gully of Rumiallana, is carried above
them, and they consequently derive no benefit from it.

To the north of these last two districts lies the plain of San Juan ;
there are a few small veins running through some parts of it, but no
important discovery has yet been made, although many mines have
been opened and carried down to depths of from one hundred and
twenty to one hundred and fifty feet. The lower adit, from the gully
of Rumiallana, is to run through it, and may open to the proprietors
some discoveries to recompense them for their labour.

The whole number of mines considered rich in the different districts,
may be enumerated as follows :

In Zauricocha 12 to 14.

Santa Rosa 20 to 25.

Cayac 10 to 12.

Chucarillo 5 to 6.

Zauracancha 10 to 12.

Each of these mines comprises a space of one hundred and eighty
feet long by ninety feet wide.

The silver ores are estimated by a measure called a box of ore,
which contains twenty-five mule-loads of ten arrobas or twenty-five
pounds each. Each box varies in value from six Spanish marks to
three thousand ; the former being the lowest which, under the most
favourable circumstances, will pay the cost of working. The poorest
is of course the most abundant.

PERU. 269

The miner who can raise ores in considerable quantities, which will
give ten to twelve marcs per box, does well.

The produce of the mines since the close of the revolutionary war
has amounted to the following, viz. :

MARCS. OZ.

In 1825, 228 bars, . . weighing 56,971 6

1826, 818 163.

1827, 1068 221,707 7

1828, 922 .... 201,33-

1829, 359 ,31

457 96,265

1*31, 635 135,133 3

1832, 994 219,380 5

1533, 1133 256,333 2

1834, 1142 267,363 4

1835, 1148 !3 2

1836, 991 244,404 1

1172 234,7 vi 3

1838, 1172 .'26

1210 279,260 3

To this may be added one-fifth for silver that has not paid duties.

The first adit of importance driven into the mines was that of San
Judas, which passed the wall of the vein of Zauricocha in the year
1794. By means of this adit, very rich ores were raised, especially
from the king's mine. In the year 1808, the present deep adit, from
which so much was expected, was begun ; for covering the expenses
of constructing it, the body of miners imposed a duty of one real per
marc on all silver melted in the government assay-office. This adit
reached in 1830 the southwest edge of the metalliferous ground of
Santa Rosa, up to which time the whole of its course had been in a
hard rock. An auxiliary adit was then commenced, fifty-four feet
above the level of the main one, and both of these works have been
carried on until the present time. The ground above being better
adapted for driving in, the upper adit is in advance of the lower, one
thousand five hundred feet, and has arrived at the district of Cayac.
The lower adit has reached the mines situated upon the vein of Zauri-
cocha, without having cut a single vein or deposit of ore in its transit.
There are several rich mines a little in advance of this adit, some of
which have been hitherto drained by hand-pumps, and which must be
shortly very much benefited by it ; for, although they extend below the
level of the adit, yet they will have some fifty feet of pump-lift less.
It will excite some wonder that steam is not now employed in the
draining of such valuable mines. It has, however, been tried ; a few
years previous to the revolution, four steam-engines, of thirty horse

270 PERU.

power each, were brought out from England, and three of them put.
up in the districts of Santa Rosa, Cayac, and Zauracancha. That of
Zauricocha was not set up, but the other three were worked with some
success.

A level was driven from the engine-shaft of Santa Rosa, into the
mines of Zauricocha, and rich ores were raised. The engine of
Cayac did little more than assist that of Zauricocha, which, on account
of the greater quantity of water, was barely able to do the work
required of it. The expense incurred by the house of Abodia in this
undertaking was upwards of six hundred thousand dollars, and at the
moment when they had begun to receive a good return for their
capital, the revolution broke out, and the troubles incident to it put a
stop to their work, and left them with that amount of loss. Subse-
quently, at the close of the war, the engine of Santa Rosa was again
put in operation; and in parts of the years 1826 and 1827, a consider-
able quantity of silver was produced, by means of the drainage effected
by it.

Some abortive attempts were made to use the engine of Zauricocha,
from 1829 to 1833; but since the latter period they have all been
abandoned, as unserviceable.

The establishments for grinding and amalgamating the ores are
situated at from one mile to three leagues from the mines: those
nearest the town are deficient in water for several months in the year.
The construction of all these mills is rude, and much power is lost.
A mill will grind two hundred boxes of the hardest ore, if it have a
constant stream of water. The amalgamation of the ore with mercury
is effected by its being trodden by horses in circular enclosures,
containing from five to ten boxes. The consumption of mercury,
including mechanical and chemical loss, is about one pound for each
marc of silver produced.

No attempts have yet been made at roasting any of the ores.

Coal mines are met with in various parts of the country, at the
distance of from two to seven leagues ; the price is one real for an
arroba, but might be much reduced if the business were properly
attended to.

Various plans have been formed at Lima, and in England, to pur-
chase and work these mines, but with what success is very uncertain ;
the attempts have generally been supposed to have resulted in a loss.
Speculation is always rife in search of these valuable ores, and pros-
pects of great gain are invariably held out to those who engage in
them ; but there is much difficulty in getting the business into successful
operation. The great error committed by all the English companies

PERU. 27 1

established in 1825, for working mines in Spanish America, was in
saddling themselves with great numbers of people, engaged at high
salaries, and workmen at extravagant wages ; the expenses attending
this force swallowed up much of the funds before any work was begun.
These included not only inspectors and mining-captains, but artisans,
all of whom were sent from England. From a total change of life
and circumstances, the mining-captains and artisans almost invariably
turned out in a short time drunkards, and became good for nothing.
In some cases miners were brought out, and these turned out still more
worthless than either of the two former classes. They, indeed, did
more work than the Indians, but their wages were higher, and the
expenses for their importation in addition, made them cost much
more.

According to the laws of Peru, the silver produced in this depart-
ment must be sent to the government assay-office, to be melted into
bars, and thence to the mint at Lima to be coined. The usual price
of silver as it comes from the mine, is from seven dollars six reals, to
seven dollars seven reals per marc. If remitted to Lima on account
of the miner, it yields him about eight dollars one real per marc.

The duties it pays are six dollars per bar of two hundred and ten
marcs to the assay-master, one real per marc for the public works of
the Cerro, and one real per marc to government.

The mint price is eight dollars two maravedis per marc of eleven
pennyweights fine.

Within three leagues of Pasco, on an extensive plain, there stands
an isolated hill of porphyry, called Raco. From this hill are cut the
stones used in grinding the ores, which are from two and a half to
three varas in diameter, and from eighteen to twenty-four inches in
thickness. The cost for delivering them at the foot of the hill is ten
dollars for every quarter of a vara in their diameter, and the expense
of drawing them to the mills varies from seventy to two hundred
dollars, according to the distance.*

In 1840, several new attempts wrere about to be made in mining
speculations.

The great difficulty to secure success seems to be in providing for
the proper drainage, which the present adit will not accomplish alone,
and great advantages might be derived from steam-power properly
employed to free the mines of water. The owners of the mines are
always desirous of inserting in the contracts, that they shall not have

* Most of the above facts are derived from a person who had long resided on the spot,
and been engaged in various mining operations.

272 PERU.

any water to raise, as this is the most expensive part of the process :
the ore is very rapidly mined, after the water is drained off. The
remuneration given to the proprietors of the steam-engines, is one-fifth
of the ore raised ; this was the sum paid to the old company, and the
same was stipulated to be paid to the parties who undertook the same
work in 1829.

Mines are to be bought at all times, on reasonable terms ; for the
miners often desire to retire from business, or wish to sell for the sake
of profit, or are not able to carry them on from want of capital.
There is, however, one difficulty a purchaser has to contend with, for
the mines are almost always held in small shares among a number of
relatives, many of whom refuse to sell their small interest. This makes
the mines less desirable property, as difficulties almost invariably occur
with these small proprietors.

No miner who has worked with reasonable prudence, steadiness,
and a sufficient capital, has failed to do well since the year 1833.
The produce of the mines of the Cerro from that time, has not varied
much from one year to another, as will be seen by the table heretofore
given. The undertakings which have been carried on upon an extensive
scale, are those which have prospered most. There were many
difficulties that the first mining companies had to encounter, that others
need not again apprehend ; the local interests are better understood
and would be more respected ; a better knowledge of the people pre-
vails, and of the modes of mining ; and the people themselves have
lost some of their prejudices against foreigners. Persons may now be
obtained to assist in the direction as well as to afford advice to the
agents who may be entrusted with the affairs of the company, so that
the prospects of success in the operations are decidedly more favour-
able than they were fifteen years ago. But although the actual
operation of mining may be more advantageous, yet the country in its
political and commercial character has very much deteriorated, and
it is to be apprehended, that but little capital will be invested in
it until there is a great change in its rulers as well as in its people,
and until government, the laws, and good order, become as well
established as they are in Chili. All the friends of Peru, seem, how-
ever, to be well satisfied, from appearances, that the day is not far
distant when she will see the restoration of permanent tranquillity.

To return, after this digression, to our party: they had much
agreeable conversation with the Chilian officers, and passed a pleasant
evening. As I have before spoken of the accommodations, it is
needless to say that they were not improved.

On the morning of the 24th, the thermometer stood at 36° in the

PERU. 273

hut, and on the rivulet there was ice one-fourth of an inch thick.
Mr. Brackenridge gathered seeds here of a curious species of Cactus,
which grows plentifully all over the mountains in dense tufts ; from
the quantities of down or fine hair upon it, it has the appearance at a
distance of a white sheep, so much so that a group of them was
sometimes mistaken for a flock.

Although Casa Cancha was a wretched hovel, and had every thing
in it to disgust, yet the situation was one of great beauty. In the
stream that flowed near it, were fish of from six to eight inches in
length, but none of these were taken, as the party was not provided
with fishing-tackle.

When the time came for their departure, they were glad to bid
adieu to the place, and to begin their ascent to the top of the ridge.
They rode two leagues to the source of the stream, which is near the
summit of the ridge. At a short distance from their path was the line
of perpetual snow. They found the ground hard frozen as the snow
was approached, and almost bare of vegetation, only a few stunted
spears of grass occurring here and there; even this appeared to be
wanting in the bare spots above the snow line. The snow was but a
thin covering, its surface was hardened, and its lower margin formed
a perfectly unbroken horizontal line, along the face of the mountain.
This was not apparently the case on the other ridges, for the snow lay
there in hollows, and sometimes descended, as before remarked, below
the path.

In the alpine lakes was a species of Myriophyllum, the same as was
met with at Culnai, three thousand feet below. Dr. Pickering found
an ammonite here.

They descended rapidly on the western declivity ; the scenery was
beautiful, and they had enough employment in collecting specimens.
Two large parties were met, on the route, the one of loaded mules, the
other of several genteel travellers, among whom were females, ac-
companied by several servants well armed. In the afternoon they
reached a solitary hut, at a place called Chicrine, situated at the foot
of La Vinda, and kept by an old woman with one eye ; she proved
very much the reverse of their hostess at Casa Cancha, being very
cleanly ; here they passed the night comfortably.

A Frenchman, who was now passing for a native, and was on his
way to Pasco, with his servant, joined them at Chicrine. Being
invited to partake of supper, he accepted, and did ample justice to the
meal ; but when he had finished, contrary to the usual politeness of
his countrymen, he told them he had never eaten a worse meal in his
life.

VOL. i. 35

274 PERU

After this remark, a belief was entertained that his saddle-bags
contained edibles, and he was accordingly plied with questions until
he confessed he had a loaf of bread : this proved quite acceptable, and
a triumph over their fellow-lodger, who promised them a farther treat
in the morning upon some fine chocolate.

On the morning of the 25th, the Frenchman departed early, and
forgot all about his fine chocolate. They regretted to hear, shortly
after their arrival at Lima, that he had been robbed and murdered on
his return.

Our party set out early, and after an hour's ride reached Culnai,
where the villagers were busy gathering in their potatoes. There
were also several patches of Oxalis cunata, Tropseolum tuberosum,
and a species of Basella. The two former when cooked were well-
tasted, and all of them are much esteemed by the natives. These
patches are enclosed by low stone dikes; the plants as they advance
are earthed up, as we do potatoes, in the early part of the season ;
irrigation is necessary, as the soil is light and open, and consists
chiefly of decayed rock and vegetable mould. Here some very inte-
resting seeds and roots of a species of Alstrocmeria were gathered.

Culnai and Banos are about on the same level, ten thousand feet
above the sea, and are the highest points of cultivation ; they are both
distant from the crest, by the route of the water-course, about nine
miles.

Dr. Pickering having preceded the party on foot, reached Culnai
after nine o'clock, when he entered a store and was received with the
utmost cordiality; a meal was at once prepared for him, consisting of
eggs and potatoes, called chupe in the country, which was kindly
tendered ; the landlord was very inquisitive, and examined his budget,
calling the attention of the bystanders to it ; his charge was reason-
able, and he gave the doctor a hearty salutation at parting, with the
" Adios per Dios."

At dark the party was reunited at Obrajillo. Those who arrived
first witnessed the slaughtering of a bullock in the square, on which
occasion great numbers of condors and buzzards were collected in the
air above. The latter bird is seldom seen higher up than Yaso. They
stopped at the posada, which they found occupied by the company of
Chilian troops whom they had met at Casa Cancha, and in consequence
they were obliged to take up with a filthy hut.

At Obrajillo good crops of Indian corn, rye, and beans are raised;
but none of these grow at a greater altitude.

A singular and rather amusing custom was witnessed in the morning,
which does not speak much for the gallantry of the male population.

PERU. 275

A town officer was seen strutting with a spear about the public square,
calling all the women out to come and sweep it. They soon made
their appearance, and were not long in creating a prodigious dust.
They swept the dirt up into small heaps ; then taking their coarse
shawls from their shoulders, they spread them upon the ground and
put the dirt they had collected into them, to be carried away.

The Chilian officers called upon our gentlemen with offers of service,
and were very civil and obliging.

At Obrajillo it was said that the wealthy men of the place kept very
quiet, being much alarmed at the presence of the Chilians.

The guides now demanded a settlement, but requested their money
might be kept for them until the party reached Lima, as they certainly
would be robbed if they took it themselves. This incident proves how
little security there is in this country, for persons of any class having
any thing valuable about them.

The preparations that had been made in the town were for a
festival, and the guides were disinclined to start for Lima. A little
bribery, however, and reminding them that one of the greatest feasts
in the Catholic church, that of Corpus Christi, was near at hand,
induced them to go forward.

On their way from Obrajillo, which they left at an early hour, they
met a bridal party on horseback. The bridegroom's hat and person
were decorated with carnations and pinks ; the bride and bridesmaid
carried the same flowers, which they presented to our gentlemen in
passing. After a hard day's ride they reached Taso, and took up
their quarters in the porch of the posthouse; the landlord and post-
master's absence was now accounted for, by saying that he had gone
to church, but would soon be back ; he of course did not come, nor
was he expected by our gentlemen. They in consequence fared badly,
for they had nothing to eat. They found here a gentleman who had
been robbed the day before, by three persons in masks ; they had
treated him with great politeness, only proposing exchanges to his
disadvantage; he had nothing else to complain of; they took his
purse, watch, spurs, and a drink of his brandy. Much to their sur-
prise, the guides, who had been so scrupulous about their money,
showed no signs of alarm. A new difficulty arose with them : they
had been informed that a conscription was going on, and they were
afraid to proceed, lest they should lose their liberty; but the assurance
that they would be protected while with the party, satisfied them.

The frequency of murder, highway robbery, and a constant resort to
the cuchillo, has not been exaggerated in the accounts of Lower Peru.

On the morning of the 27th they again set out, having prepared

276 PERU.

themselves to encounter any attack. The guides, knowing well the
dangers that were to be apprehended, showed much solicitude about
keeping the company together.

They reached Yanga without accident, and finding the posada
occupied by a party of soldiers, and a recruiting officer, they were
directed to a house with a porch, but they found it shut up. They
therefore, being assured that the owner would soon return, deposited
the saddles, &c., in the porch. Soon after, a woman appeared, and on
being informed of their situation, and that they had fasted for two
days, she set about providing for their supper, apparently from
Christian motives, for during the process she crossed herself several
times. She proved to be the owner of the estate, was somewhat
advanced in life, managed her own affairs, and was seemingly well
adapted to encounter the roughness of the times. The heiress, a little
girl, (Angelita by name,) came galloping on a horse, driving the cattle
before her, with the air of a veteran, having command over both the
animal she rode, and those she drove ; they were not much struck with
her beauty, for her well-plastered face, and wide-spreading and matted
hair, gave her the appearance of an elf; but she was a specimen of
Peruvian nobility. Their supper was good, and they were permitted
to lie on the clay floor, in the house.

They paid the usual price for the accommodations. In the morning,
before their departure, they purchased fifty oranges for twelve and a
half cents (a real), it being stipulated, however, that they should be
gathered by themselves. These served to refresh them while passing
over the barren track (described in their ascent) of four leagues. They
were overtaken by their Chilian friends, and the troop, when their
minds were relieved of the apprehensions of robberies.

Caballeros was reached at an early hour, and here they intended to
stop on account of their horses ; but their Chilian friends persuaded
them to pursue their journey to Lima, promising to render them assis-
tance, in case they should need it. At Caballeros they witnessed a
fight between a turkey and a game-cock ; strife, indeed, appears to be
a constant amusement with the Peruvians, and scenes of this kind
alone seem to interest the public. After a long day's journey of twelve
leagues, they reached Lima at eight o'clock, very much fatigued, and
happy to return to the comforts of civilized life.

The only novelty they met with during the day's ride was a Guacho
on horseback, carrying a pine board before him, — a proof of the scarcity
of such articles in Peru, and the value that is set upon them.

This journey, although attended with much fatigue and some dis-
appointment, from not having accomplished their object entirely, that of

PERU. 277

reaching the wooded district of the Eastern slope of the Andes, yet
was very productive of results in the botanical department.

The great difference of elevation, and the variation in climate con-
sequent thereon, would lead one to expect a greater variety in the
vegetation than was actually found. Forests were no where met with,
nor were any of the palm tribe seen ; very few of the many tropical
plants were perceived even on the coast. The smaller shrubs were
seldom found, except in the lower region, where their limit is circum-
scribed to the well-watered district. Thickets are very rare, and in
the higher regions appear to be altogether wanting. The vegetation
of Peru on the whole is characterized by an air of tameness, indicating
but a slight change of season, and has been classed into four distinct
botanical regions, which are easily distinguished ; they will claim par-
ticular attention, and afford much interesting matter, in the Botanical
Report.

The geological region passed over was also one of much interest,
and from the observations of the gentlemen, the following information
has been derived.

The geological structure, as far as their observations went, cor-
responds to that of North Chili, with the exception of a narrow belt of
sedimentary rocks along the sea-coast, west of the granitic range,
which is wanting in that country. This belt includes the island of
San Lorenzo, and others, as well as the coast itself, to the extent of
from seven to ten miles from the sea-beach. These sedimentary
rocks are argillaceous, distinctly stratified, and more or less slaty, the
layers being in many places discoloured by the red oxide of iron. In
other places they appeared of a black colour, as if in the vicinity of
coal-beds, of which the existence was spoken of, but we did not dis-
cover any unequivocal traces of this substance. Some conspicuous
examples of faults were noticed by Mr. Dana, along the coast of San
Lorenzo. Many minerals were also found by this gentleman ; among
them gypsum was of frequent occurrence, as well as some fossils : for
fuller information, reference is made to the Geological Report.

The hills and mountains to the eastward, joining the above sedi-
mentary rocks, are exclusively of granite, which extends in width to
the distance of forty-five geographical miles beyond Yaso. In places,
it has very much the appearance of a stratified rock ; it is much broken
and variable in its character, so as to render it somewhat deceptive.
Dr. Pickering observes, that this peculiar character or appearance is
owing to the slow process of the decomposition of the rock in this dry
climate, and which would in other places, subject to the ordinary

218 PERU.

fluctuations of seasons, be covered with several feet of earth. The
same reasons will account for the duration of the Inca villages that
cover many of the hills, and which a copious shower would entirely
wash away. The granite on its eastern side was coarse-grained, pre-
senting more of the ordinary appearance of that rock.

Immediately eastward of the granite district commence the trap
rocks, consisting for the most part of porphyry. Dr. Pickering traced
the line of junction for some miles, the hills on one side being of
granite, on the other porphyry. The eastern limit of the trap region
is supposed to be distant some twenty miles from the western. The
porphyry resembles the Swedish, and that in the vicinity of Boston.
Many porphyry pebbles, supposed to be of this formation, were found
on the beach at Callao, having, it is to be presumed, been carried
there by the action of the water-courses.

Next comes the plateau of the Cordilleras, which is formed of sedi-
mentary rocks ; this includes the silver mines, and the highest peaks,
and is apparently of the same age as the coast. Much of the rock is
argillaceous. At Baiios an argillaceous limestone was used for burn-
ing, and quantities of gypsum, used for manure, was brought from the
vicinity of Casa Cancha, some twenty miles to the north. Conglo-
merates prevailed over a great portion of the crest the party traversed.
The included pebbles were observed to be of regular shape, smooth
and polished as if sea-washed. All the party remarked the smooth-
ness of the pebbles in the torrents of the Cordilleras, which had a
strong resemblance to those on the sea-beach. From the information
relative to the mines in the Cerro de Pasco, it will have been perceived
that blue limestone, slate, and sandstone, exist in that vicinity ; and at
the silver mines at Alpamarca, a compact bluish rock was observed,
probably the limestone ; it was not, however, ascertained whether it
was argillaceous or a pure limestone. Dr. Pickering remarks, that it
contained numerous hard seams of opaque calcareous spar, with some-
what the lustre of " satin spar." Sandstone with small pebbles was
not uncommon.

The bare spots of the higher peaks did not present the variety of
colour of the Chilian Andes, but had a uniform dark slaty hue.
Many incrustations were seen forming on the rocks and plants : this
was found to be gypsum.

Previous to our departure, I felt desirous of having an excursion
made to the ruins of Pachacamac ; and having heard that the landing

o o

was easy and good, on the inside of the island, I sent the tender
Flying-Fish thither, with Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Underwood.

PERU. 279

Pachacamac is one of the most interesting spots on this part of the
coast, although it is said it will not compare with many others in
various parts of the country, especially at Cusco.

They left Callao on the afternoon of the 28th of June, and were at
anchor about midnight abreast of the place. At daylight the surf was
found so heavy as to render it dangerous to land in the whale-boat.
By the perseverance of the officers, a raft was formed of the India-
rubber mattrasses and oars; two balsas were also provided. Lieu-
tenant Underwood made the first attempt, and paddled himself into the
rollers, the first one of which threw him and the balsas end over end.
Shortly after, the raft was seen bottom up, the oar broken, and the
fragments sticking up in various directions ; but he was missing. He
soon, however, made his appearance at some distance, and just as he
reached the raft, a second sea broke over him, and he again dis-
appeared, apparently much exhausted. When the third roller broke
over him, he was considered for a few moments as lost ; and it was
no small relief to see him crawling from the water up on the beach, a
short time afterwards. The raft was now pulled back to the tender
by the line. In consequence of the ill success of this experiment, it
was determined to make a trial in the whale-boat, which succeeded
without accident. Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant Underwood now
proceeded to the temple. At the base of the hills, they found a few
cabins of Indians, who stated that they had not chosen the proper
place for landing.

The Temple of Pachacamac, or Castle, as it is called by the
Indians, is on the summit of a hill, with three terraces ; the view of
it from the north is somewhat like that of the Pyramid of Cholula,
given by Humboldt, except that the flanks were perpendicular.

The whole height of the hill is two hundred and fifty fee*, that of
the mason-work, eighty ; the form is rectangular, the base being five
hundred by four hundred feet. At the southeastern extremity, the
three distinct terraces are not so perceptible, and the declivity is more
gentle. The walls, where great strength was required to support the
earth, were built of unhewn square blocks of rock ; these were cased
with sun-dried brick (adobes), which were covered with a coating ot
clay or plaster, and stained or painted of a reddish colour.

TKMPLE OF PACHACAMAC.

280

PERU.

A range of square brick pilasters projected from the uppermost
wall, facing the sea, evidently belonging originally to the interior of a
large apartment. These pilasters gave it the aspect of an Egyptian
structure. In no other Peruvian antiquities have pilasters been seen
by us. On one of the northern terraces were also remains of apart-
ments; here the brick appeared more friable, owing to a greater
proportion of sand ; where they retained their shape, their dimensions
were nine inches in width by six inches deep, varying in height from
nine inches to two feet; and they were laid so as to break joint,
though not always in a workmanlike manner.

The remains of the town occupy some undulating ground, of less
elevation, a quarter of a mile to the northward. This also forms a
rectangle, one-fifth by one-third of a mile in size ; through the middle
runs lengthwise a straight street, twenty feel in width. The walls of
some of the ruins are thirty feet high, and cross each other at right
angles. The buildings were apparently connected together, except
where the streets intervened. The larger areas were again divided
by thinner partitions, and one of them was observed to contain four
rectangular pits, the plastering of which appeared quite fresh.

The annexed wood-cut will give a representation of the ground,
&c. ; both are from sketches made by Lieutenant Underwood.

GROUND PLAN OF PACHACAMAC.

No traces of doors or windows towards the streets could be dis-
covered, nor indeed any where else. The walls were exclusively of
sun-dried brick, and their direction, northeast and southwest, the same
as those of the temple, which fronted the sea.

Some graves were observed to the southward of the temple, but the
principal burying-ground was between the temple and town. Some
of the graves were rectangular pits, lined with a dry wall of stone,
and covered with layers of reeds and canes, on which the earth was
filled in to the depth of a foot or more, so as to be even with the sur-
face. The skulls brought from this place were of various characters ;
the majority of them presented the vertical elevation, or raised occi-
put, the usual characteristic of the ancient Peruvians, while others

PERU.

281

had the forehead and top of the head depressed. Eight of these were
obtained, and are now deposited at Washington. The bodies were
found enveloped in cloth of various qualities, and a variety in its
colours still existed.

Various utensils and other articles were found, which seemed to
denote the occupation of the individual : wooden needles and weaving
utensils ; netting made in the usual style ; a sling ; cordage of different
kinds ; a sort of coarse basket ; fragments of pottery, and plated
stirrups. They also found various vegetable substances : husks ol
Indian corn, with ears of two varieties, one with the grain slightly
pointed, the other, the short and black variety, which is still very
commonly cultivated ; cotton seeds ; small bunches of wool ; gourd-
shells, with a square hole cut out, precisely as is done at present.
These furnished evidence of the style of the articles manufactured
before the arrival of the Spaniards, and of the cultivation of the vege-
table products ; when to these we add the native tuberous roots (among
them the potato) cultivated in the mountains, and the animals found
domesticated, viz., the llama, dog, and Guinea-pig, and the knowledge
of at least one metal, we may judge what has since been acquired.

The embarkation of the party was attended with risk, but they all
got on board the Flying-Fish without accident.

Mr. Knox also visited the island of Pachacamac, during the day,
but did not succeed in finding any graves. He obtained, however,
some interesting geological specimens.

In a few hours they again reached the anchorage at Callao.

CHURCH AT BANGS.

VOL. I.

36

CHAPTER XIV.

CONTENTS.

SELF AGGRANDIZEMENT THE OBJECT OP RULERS— END OF REVOLUTIONARY WAR-
GENERAL BOLIVAR DICTATOR— HIS AUTHORITY CEASES— GENERAL LA MAR ELECTED

— GAMARRA'S TREACHERY — LA MAR ARRESTED AND BANISHED — GAMARR A AND
LAFUENTE ELECTED— ATTEMPTS TO SEIZE LAFUENTE— HIS ESCAPE— EXECUTION OF
MAJOR ROSEL— CONVENTION CONVOKED— GAMARRA RESIGNS— ORBEJOSO ELECTED—
REVOLUTION BY BERMUDEZ AND GAMARRA — BERMUDEZ CAPTURED — ORBEJOSO'S
AUTHORITY RESTORED— SALAVERRY REVOLTS— DECLARES HIMSELF SUPREME DIG
TATOR— UNITES WITH GAMARRA— GAMARRA DEFEATED-ARRESTED BY SALAVERRY
AND BANISHED— SALAVERRY MARCHES AGAINST SANTA CRUZ— BATTLE OF SOCA-
BAYA — SALAVERRY DEFEATED — TAKEN PRISONER — TRIED AND SHOT — ORBEJOSO
REINSTATED — TREATY WITH CHILI NULLIFIED — SANTA CRUZ'S INTRIGUES — DIS-
MEMBERMENT OF PERU — ASSEMBLY OF SICUANI— SANTA CRUZ NAMED SUPREME
PROTECTOR— CONVENTION OF HUARA— GENERAL FREYRE FITS OUT AN EXPEDITION

— CHILIAN CONSUL - GENERAL EVADES THE EMBARGO — SEIZURE OF PERUVIAN
VESSELS— NEGOTIATION— CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES— INVASION OF ALTA PERU —
DISASTROUS CAMPAIGN— TREATY OF PEACE— RETURN OF CHILIAN ARMY— CHILIAN
GOVERNMENT REFUSES TO RATIFY THE TREATY— LEGION OF HONOUR— DISCONTENT
AT SANTA CRUZ'S POLICY — WAR AGAIN COMMENCED— EXPEDITION FROM CHILI -
INVASION OF PERU— BATTLE OF LIMA— LIMA TAKEN— ORBEJOSO ESCAPES— GAMARRA
NAMED PRESIDENT— SANTA CRUZ MARCHES UPON LIMA— CHILIANS EMBARK— LAND
AT HUARA— PURSUED BY SANTA CRUZ— BATTLE OF YUNGAI— SANTA CRUZ TOTALLY
DEFEATED— ESCAPES TO LIMA— THENCE TO AREQUIPA— SEEKS REFUGE ON BOARD
A BRITISH SHIP OF WAR — BULNES SAILS AGAIN FOR CALLAO — DISEMBARKS HIS
TROOPS-TAKES POSSESSION OF LIMA — CONGRESS CONVOKED— GAMARRA ELECTED
PRESIDENT— RESULTS OF BATTLE OF YUNGAI— BULNES WITH HIS ARMY RETURNS
TO CHILI— GAMARRA GOES TO AID BOLIVIA — HIS FORCES ROUTED, AND HIMSELF
KILLED — CHARACTER OF BOLIVAR — LA MAR — GAMARRA— LAFUENTE— ORBEJOSO —
SALAVERRY — SANTA CRUZ — HIS ACTS — COMMERCE — PERU AND CHILI — IMPORTS-
EXPORTS— TRADE WITH THE UNITED STATES.

(283)

CHAPTER XIV.

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.
1839.

THE history of Peru, during the last twenty years, is involved in
even more obscurity than that of Chili. This arises from the frequent
change of rulers, and the consequent alterations in policy and govern-
ment. The history may be said to be merged in biographical memoirs
of its several rulers, who have, without an exception, acted for self-
aggrandizement, without ever looking to the benefit of their country,
its peace, or happiness. They have, in their public decrees and acts,
been lavish and prodigal of the words honour, liberty, justice, &c.,
in order to extol themselves, and decry their opponents. Yet, without
exception, the moment they have attained power, they have pursued
the very course they before reprobated, and the country has continued
to suffer.

The victory of Ayacucho, gained by General Sucre in December,
1824, put an end to the war of the revolution, and placed the whole
country in the possession of the patriots, with the exception of Callao.
On the surrender of that fortress, January 7th, 1826, Spanish authority
ceased to exist in South America. General Bolivar was at this time
President of Colombia, and Dictator of Peru, invested as the latter
with constitutional powers, but exercising unlimited authority. Through
his means and the troops of Colombia, the liberation of Peru had been
effected ; and after that event, many of these troops were quartered in
Lima, much to the annoyance of the Peruvians, who were anxious to
get rid of the military, and the expense of maintaining them. Their
presence, and the cost of supporting them, became the more odious,
because it was believed they were retained to support the arbitrary
power of the Dictator. In the beginning of the year 1827, the Peru-
vians, through their intrigues, effected a revolt among the Colombian

(285)

286 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

troops, who made prisoners of their officers, put an end to the authority
of the Dictator Bolivar, and freed Peru from the presence, as well as
the expense, of foreign troops.

Immediately after this event, General La Mar was elected and
proclaimed President of Peru. He was a native of Guayaquil, reputed
to be a mild and just man, had been brought up in the Spanish army,
and was attached to General San Martin; but he appears to have been
ill adapted to rule over such a people as the Peruvians. At first his
election was popular, and his name took the place of that of Bolivar
over all the gates, &c., in the City of Kings.

At this change every demonstration of joy was witnessed. The
Colombian troops were sent to the neighbourhood of Guayaquil, when
they attempted a revolution against the Colombian authorities in
Guaymas and Quito, (about forming the republic of Equador,) in which
they were partially successful, but were soon put down by General
Flores. These acts led to hostilities between Colombia and Peru, and
in the beginning of 1828, La Mar marched to the frontiers of Colombia,
without any declaration of war, with a part of the Peruvian forces,
leaving General Gamarra, a native of Cusco, who had been the cause
of so much revolution and bloodshed in Peru, to follow with a second
division of Peruvian troops. At this time General Santa Cruz (who
had been for a short time President of Peru,) was President of Bolivia,
and he, together with Gamarra and Lafuente, conspired to overthrow
La Mar, after which Santa Cruz was to be proclaimed President of
Peru, Gamarra Vice-President, and Lafuente Minister of War.

With this plan in view, Gamarra joined La Mar on the frontiers of
Colombia. The battle of Portete took place soon afterwards, when,
in consequence of the treachery or cowardice of Gamarra, the Peru-
vians were beaten, and capitulated on the field of battle to General
Sucre, who was opposed to them with a much inferior force of
Colombians. A treaty was signed, but was soon violated by the
Peruvians, and hostilities again commenced. Another division of the
Peruvian army, one thousand five hundred strong, which had been
acting in Bolivia, embarked from Arica, under Lafuente, to join La
Mar, in the north. They arrived at Callao, and were disembarked
against La Mar's orders, and shortly after Lafuente overthrew the
government at Lima, whilst Gamarra arrested La Mar in the north,
and banished him to Costa Rica, in Central America, where he shortly
afterwards died.

Lafuente ejected all the officials, and assumed the government in the
name of Gamarra.

Gamarra and Lafuente, having thus secured the army and govern-

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 287

ment, overlooked Santa Cruz, and got themselves confirmed, the former
as President, the latter as Vice-President of Peru. This is the secret
and chief cause of the great animosity and personal hatred which
existed between Gamarra and Santa Cruz, and which has led to
several years of revolutions and counter-revolutions in Peru, as well as
to the wars of Bolivia.

In 1829, Gamarra was elected President for four years, and is the
only chief magistrate who has retained his office to the end of the term
for which he was chosen. Lafuente was at the same time elected
Vice-President. During the administration of Gamarra, there were
several attempts to revolutionize the country, but they were suppressed.

In the year 1831, Gamarra being on the frontiers of Bolivia, with
the army, he became suspicious that Lafuente was concerned in some
of the movements, and gave orders to seize him. Lafuente had little
notice of it, but when the party detached for the purpose arrived at his
quarters at night, Sefiora Lafuente, his wife, bolted the door, to give
time for her husband to escape. The officer in command, before going
to the apartment, had stationed guards around the square, with orders
to shoot any one whom they saw escaping. On arriving at the door
of the chamber, he found it bolted, and ordered it to be opened. This
was done by Senora Lafuente, after her husband had effected his
escape through the window. The officer, eager in pursuit, followed,
but mistaking the course of flight, got upon the roofs of the houses,
where he was seen by his own soldiers, who, true to their orders, fired
and shot him dead. Lafuente, thus saved by the good management of
his wife, escaped to Callao, where he found an asylum on board the
United States ship St. Louis, then lying in the roads. Thence he went
to Chili, and from Chili to Bolivia, where he became reconciled to Santa
Cruz, and endeavoured to obtain aid from him to overthrow Gamarra.

Another conspiracy is said to have been discovered by Gamarra in
1832, in which Major Rosel was suspected of being the leader. He
was then commander of a regiment, and the plot was believed to involve
the seizure of the President's person. Some colour is supposed to have
been given to this suspicion by the fact that Rosel drilled his men at an
unusual hour, and apparently kept them in readiness for active duty.
On the 18th of January, while at his quarters in the evening, he was
seized, disarmed, tried on the spot, and shot on the following morning.
It is believed that this, as well as many other supposed conspiracies,
existed only in Gamarra's own fears or suspicions. The summary
manner, however, in which he treated all who showed any thing
approaching a rebellious spirit, kept the disaffected in subjection.
Among other persons, his suspicions fell upon the President of the

288 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

Senate and acting Vice-President, Manuel Telluria, who was seized,
carried to Callao, forced on board a small vessel of war, and trans-
ported to Panama.

In July, 1833, just at the close of Gamarra's term of office, the con-
vention which had been provided for by the Constitution of 1828, was
convoked to meet at Lima, there to amend the constitution. It was
still in session when his term expired, on the 20th December, 1833.
On the 19th he sent in his resignation to the National Convention, and
issued an address to the people, announcing that the wished-for day
had arrived when he could retire to private life. This was well known
to be insincere, for while he was making these protestations, he was
doing every thing in his power to secure his re-election. Gamarra had
become extremely unpopular, and throughout the country was accused
of injustice and tyranny. News of revolts were reaching the capital
(Lima) every day, both from the north and south : only a short time
before his term expired, he had gone south, to quell one at Ayacucho.

At the time of the expiration of his term of office, the electoral
college for the choice of a president had not met, in consequence of
some informality in the election of its members ; and as no constitu-
tional election could be obtained, the Convention, with the sanction of
Gamarra, balloted for a provisional president, until the election should
take place, and the choice fell upon General Don Luiz Orbejoso, in
opposition to Bermudez, who was a creature of Gamarra's, Gamarra
himself, by the constitution, not being re-eligible.

Soon after Orbejoso was elected, Bermudez, instigated and aided by
Gamarra, on a plea of the unconstitutionality of the election, effected a
revolution in Lima. This took place on the 18th of January, 1834,
when the Convention was dispersed at the point of the bayonet ; many
lives were lost, and Orbejoso fled to the castle of Callao. The people
of Lima on this occasion showed some spirit, and took part in the
affray, which was quite unlocked for, as they had generally been in the
habit of retiring to their houses, and allowing the contending parties to
settle the strife. In a few days they rose upon the soldiers of Bermu-
dez, whom they compelled to evacuate the city and retire beyond the
mountains, where they soon after capitulated, and Orbejoso's authority
was re-established. Gamarra fled to Bolivia, and was protected by
Santa Cruz.

During this insurrection, Lafuente again returned to Peru, and,
being detected or suspected of intriguing to get himself named Presi-
dent, was banished by Orbejoso. He retired to Chili to await events.

In February, 1835, during Orbejoso's absence to the south, General
Salaverry, who was in command of the Castle of Callao, revolted,

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 289

seized upon the government, and declared himself Supreme Chief. In
June, he issued a decree appointing a council of state, consisting of
twenty-four members, of which he was president, and began to exer-
cise the most despotic authority. Orbejoso had, in the mean time,
sent to demand aid of Santa Cruz to suppress the insurrection. The
council of government had, during the previous rebellion of Bermudez,
invested Orbejoso with extraordinary powers, especially authorizing
him to call upon Santa Cruz, President of Bolivia, for aid to quell the
insurrection in Peru ; but Bermudez had capitulated before Santa Cruz
•was called upon to act. After the rebellion of Salaverry, Orbejoso
assumed those powers. In the mean time, Salaverry continued his
acts of cruelty and oppression.

Gamarra, always on the watch, now made his appearance, in the
hopes of again raising himself to power. He had fled from Bolivia,
and had collected about fifteen hundred men, to make war upon
Orbejoso, when he issued a proclamation in May, 1835. Salaverry,
however, knowing that Gamarra was entirely influenced by interested
motives, declared him an outlaw, and prepared to march against him ;
but on learning that Santa Cruz was marching on Peru with three
thousand Bolivian troops, he immediately treated with Gamarra, and
they agreed to act together against Orbejoso and his new ally. Before
they could unite their forces, Santa Cruz attacked and completely
routed Gamarra's troops : he fled almost alone to Lima, where Sala-
verry soon after arrested him and sent him to Central America,
whence he proceeded to Chili, to carry on his intrigues to keep Peru
in a state of civil war. Salaverry now marched against Santa Cruz ;
they met near Arequipa, and the battle of Socabaya was fought, where
Salaverry was completely defeated, and taken prisoner while attempt-
ing to gain his vessels at Islay. He was immediately tried by a
military commission, and with his principal officers shot, at Arequipa.
The career of Salaverry was short, but unexampled in Peru for its
activity and energy. His fate excited no sympathy, for he had
committed some of the most barbarous acts, executing persons
without trial, upon the slightest suspicion of being disaffected to his
authority.

Orbejoso, on being reinstated by the aid of Santa Cruz, and the
revolt suppressed, called an assembly of the deputies at the town of
Sicuani, and set about punishing all who had taken part or served in
any manner during the rebellion of Salaverry.

The nullification of the treaty with Chili is said to have been
brought about by the advice of Gavia del Rio, who was supposed to
be somewhat under the influence of Santa Cruz. He made use of the

VOL. i. 37

290 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

argument, that it contained stipulations injurious to, and contrary to the
true policy of Peru, which was to endeavour to promote a free inter-
course with all nations, a policy which outweighed all the advantages
that could be derived from the treaty with Chili.

In 1830, General Hcrrera was received as ambassador from Bolivia
by Orbejoso, and with General Moran, who commanded the troops,
seems to have exerted a great influence over Orbejoso. He entered
into an offensive and defensive alliance with Bolivia, which gave all
the ascendency to Bolivia, or rather to Santa Cruz, engaging that the
Bolivian army should remain in Peru until peace should be established
at the north. From this it was evident that Peru was ruled by stran-
gers, and her interests were forgotten. The people, therefore, soon
became dissatisfied with the administration of Orbejoso, and when he
ordered a new election of deputies, they in many of the towns refused
to vote, believing that his real object was to secure himself a re-elec-
tion by the Assembly.

He dismembered the eight provinces of Peru, by declaring that four
of them should be known hereafter under the name of South Peru,
composed of the departments of Arequipa, Ayacucho, Cusco, and
Puno. Nothing can be more absurd than the way in which he seems
to have conducted the government, and the bombastic and foolish tone
of his decrees, wherein he is styled, or styles himself, " Citizen, Don
Louis Orbejoso, Great Hero and meritorious General of Divisions, and
Grand Marshal of the State of South Peru."

The Assembly of Sicuani met on the 17th March, when it conferred
upon Santa Cruz the title of Supreme Protector of South Peru, con-
sisting of the four above mentioned provinces of Arequipa, Cusco,
Ayacncho, and Puno. At the same time, every power was given him
over the state, as well as the right to convene a legislature as soon as
he should think proper. This was virtually extending his power over
the half of Peru next bordering on Bolivia, and was the first step
towards making him head of both slates. The Assembly likewise
bestowed great encomiums on the Bolivian army, awarding to them
medals and thanks. On Santa Cruz it conferred the title of Invincible
Pacificator of Peru; voted that an equestrian statue of him should be
erected on the field of Socabaya, and that his portrait should be hung
up in their hall, and in all the tribunals and public offices of the repub-
lic. The next act was to appoint a committee to wait upon Santa
Cruz, to present him with the declaration of independence, and to
invest him with the Supreme Protectorate, awarding to him likewise
a salary of thirty thousand dollars a year for the expenses of his
exalted situation.

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 291

On the 19th, the Assembly approved of the treaty entered into
between Orbejoso and Santa Cruz.

The Assembly of Sicuani was but four days in session; and its
whole object seems to have been to confer titles and honours on Santa
Cruz, instead of looking into the affairs of the state. This must strike
any one as having been a ridiculous farce; and it cannot be a matter
of surprise that the South Americans should rather be retrograding
than advancing, when we look upon acts like these.

On the 3d August, 1836, the Convention of Huara (which had been
previously summoned) met. After being organized, it received mes-
sages from the provisional President, and the Supreme Protector by
his plenipotentiary, who submitted three projects for an organic law
for the purpose of uniting Peru and Bolivia under one head. It pro-
posed to form them into the three federative states of Bolivia, North
and South Peru, each to have a president, and all to be under the
Supreme Protector, who was named for life. The chief ditliculty the
Convention had to overcome was, whether a successor to the Pro-
tector, in case of his death or infirmity, should be named, and whether
Orbejoso should be the party. During the pendency of this question,
Orbejoso sent word to the Assembly, through the minister, that they
might desist from the considering him as a candidate to succeed the
Protector. This great difficulty having been thus removed, the organic
law was passed, organizing the four remaining provinces under the
title of North Peru. At the same time, the act that had been passed
by the Convention at Sicuani, establishing the state of South Peru, was
confirmed. At this session, Orbejoso was made a grand marshal, the
pay of that rank was voted to him, and also a clasp for a sword-belt
set with diamonds, with one hundred thousand dollars in money. A
monument to Santa Cruz in one of the Alamedas in Lima was provided
for, with a gold sword inlaid with diamonds, and one hundred thousand
dollars to his wife as pin-money. This convention was only in session
three days. It may well be imagined what the people of Lima thought
of these acts, by the fact that on the 13th August, Orbejoso returned to
Lima, without receiving any attentions whatever. Orbejoso had pre-
vious to this time adopted the novel plan of chartering (aumdamiento)
the government vessels of war, considering they had no longer any use
for them ; General Freyre, the former director of Chili, who it has been
mentioned was banished from that country, and was residing in Lima,
engaged the two frigates for the purpose of making a descent on Chili.
All the Chilians who had been banished, united with him, and it is
believed that Orbejoso favoured and aided the project by money as

292 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

well as advice. A similar belief was entertained in relation to Santa
Cruz, although he thought proper to deny the charge.

Peru and Bolivia thus became one government, under the name of
the Peru-Bolivian Confederation, and Santa Cruz was declared Supreme
Protector for life, with almost unlimited authority. This was an un-
popular measure in Peru, the people alleging that her independence had
been bartered for foreign aid. There was little to unite her to Bolivia,
no common interest, and but limited commercial intercourse to cement
a union. Bolivia, on the other hand, saw herself involved in quarrels
in which she had no interest ; moreover, Chili and Equador became
suspicious, and jealous of the ambitious projects of the Protector of the
new Confederation ; while the misunderstanding respecting the treaty,
and the restrictions that were put on her commerce, tended to widen
the breach with Chili.

The Protector, on his arrival in Lima, was received with great
rejoicings, &c. One of his first acts was to impose a discriminating
and additional duty on all goods introduced into the ports of the Con-
federation, when imported in vessels having touched at a Chilian port,
with the ostensible object of encouraging a direct trade from Europe
and the United States, to Peru and Bolivia. The Chilians took great
offence at this act. Peru in her struggle for independence had received
much assistance, first from Chili, and then from Colombia, and was in
debt to both for the expense of the war. This very aid produced its
usual consequences, by creating those feelings of hostility which the
ungrateful indulge in towards their benefactors.

It soon became apparent that the vessels of war were chartered by
General Freyre, who embarked in them with a number of the dis-
contented Chilians who were in exile, and about two hundred soldiers.
This was done secretly, but the Chilian consul-general contriving to
get the information, as has been related, despatched a vessel to notify
his government, before an embargo was laid. We have heretofore
seen, in the chapter which treats of the affairs of Chili, how the
whole affair was frustrated, and how Freyre and the others were
taken prisoners.

The party in power in Chili had always been opposed to Santa
Cruz personally, and believed that he had planned and aided the
attempt to revolutionize Chili. Under pretence therefore of danger
from the preponderating influence of the Peru-Bolivian Confederation,
under so ambitious and intriguing a head, they resolved on war. For
this purpose they deemed it necessary to secure the command of the
sea, and they sent two vessels of war to Callao, ostensibly on a

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 21)3

friendly mission, but \vith secret orders to cut out the Peruvian vessels
of war, then undergoing repairs in that port. This perfidious act was
successfully perpetrated, and the next day Santa Cruz ordered the
arrest of La Valle, the resident Chilian consul-general in Lima, but
released him in an hour or two, and sent him his passport.

Negotiations were entered into, and resulted, as we have before
seen, through the intercession of the English diplomatic agent, in a
convention and a cessation of hostilities for four months. It was
evident from the first that no peace would ensue ; both parties had done
wrong, and it is believed that neither wished for peace. Chili having
now obtained command of the coast, saw no difficulty in carrying on
the war. Accordingly, three thousand men were embarked, landed in
South Peru, and marched for Arequipa, where, however, they were
speedily cooped up, left without resources, and surrounded by superior
forces, daily augmenting under Santa Cruz; who finding the war
unpopular in Peru, was desirous of making peace, and waived all the
advantages of his position to make a treaty, which was entered into
whilst the troops were drawn up in order of battle. This treaty was
highly honourable to both nations. By it the Chilians were allowed to
re-embark, on condition of returning to their own country, and after-
wards giving up the plundered vessels to Peru. The troops returned
to Chili; but the Chilian government refused to ratify the treaty, —
which is known as that of Paucarpata.

Santa Cruz now instituted the Legion of Honour, in order to
reward all those who had served with him in his campaigns, and
annexed a certain compensation, which amounted to an annual charge
upon the state of fifty thousand dollars.

Great complaints were made by the Peruvians against Santa Cruz
for appointing so many foreigners to office, and for inveigling the
Peruvians, who were opposed to him into the country, and then
placing them under surveillance. These measures gave great dis-
satisfaction, and made him so unpopular that the people were at once
desirous of throwing ofF the connexion with Bolivia, which it was
now evident Santa Cruz's ambition had brought about.

He had besides given public notice in writing to the consul-general
of Great Britain, and of other nations, requesting them to communicate
from time to time their views, and information relative to commercial
matters. This, in the opinion of the Peruvians, had the effect of giving
to foreigners undue participation in the government. Even his friends
thought that he might have obtained all the information without calling
upon them in so public a manner for it, and thus exciting the jealousy
of the Peruvians. He also issued a decree opening the ports of Bolivia

294 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

and Peru to the Spanish flag. However wise the latter measure might
have been in a commercial point of view, it was ill-timed, for the pre-
judices against the old Spaniards are yet extremely strong in South
America, and especially in Peru.

Santa Cruz's policy seems to have been to attach foreigners to his
person and government, and they for the most part spoke favourably
of him ; but as he gained ground with them he lost it with his coun-
trymen, and those who were and ought to have been his supporters
were disappointed and mortified to see him pursue such a course.
The Peruvians are conceited, proud, and destitute of that education
and knowledge which would enable them to understand the necessity
of asking foreigners for advice respecting their commercial regula-
tions.

Santa Cruz, believing himself firmly established in Peru, was desirous
of seeking popularity abroad ; and for this purpose wished to have it
understood that he was disposed to encourage trade with foreign
nations.

Chili again despatched to Peru the same troops, augmented by
reinforcements, under the command of General Bulnes. With them,
as in the former expedition, came the proscribed Peruvians, among
whom was General Gamarra.

Previous to the arrival of the Chilian expedition, Orbejoso, who had
been appointed, by Santa Cruz, President of North Peru, revolted
against his authority, and declared the Confederation dissolved. In
this he was joined by General Nieto. Orbejoso, however, opposed the
Chilians, and declined their assistance, telling them that if they were
seeking Santa Cruz, they might seek for him elsewhere. Bulnes
replied that he must remain ; disembarked his troops, and encamped
near Lima. The next morning, as one of his regiments was removing
to a more favourable position for water, Orbejoso thought that he in-
tended an attack, and, determining to anticipate it, marched against him,
ordering General Nieto to follow. The latter, wishing to play chief,
kept back. Bulnes, finding himself unexpectedly attacked, ordered an
advance on the Peruvians, drove them before him, and after the
battle* entered Lima with his troops, where he maintained himself;
Orbejoso, after his defeat under the walls of Lima, secreted himself in
that city, and thence, in a few days, fled to the Castle of Callao, where
he remained until Santa Cruz again entered Lima. He then embarked

* This was witnessed by many persons from the housetops and steeples, who represent
it »s little better than a massacre ; scenes occurred thut were revolting to the sight The
history of this so-called battle will be a dark spot on the escutcheons of both Chili and Peru,
if the full details be ever sfiven.

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 295

for Guayaquil, where he still remains. Nieto sought an asylum on
board one of the foreign ships of war lying in the Bay of Callao, as
has been customary in their revolutions.

The day after the Chilians entered Lima, Gamarra succeeded in
getting himself proclaimed President of Peru, by a few of his rninions
under the bayonets of Chili, and exercised his authority as far as their
influence extended.

At the time of these occurrences, Santa Cruz was in Bolivia, when,
on learning the treachery of Orbejoso, and the occupation of Lima by
the Chilians, he collected his forces in the valley of Jauja, and marched
to join General Moran, called the Murat of Peru, who was encamped
within three days' march of Lima, with three thousand men, and
awaiting him. Santa Cruz approached Lima, after having effected
his junction with Moran. He moved on, confident of success, with
his well-appointed force, a host of marshals and generals in his suite,
and boasted that the Chilians would soon be in a worse situation than
when the treaty of Paucarpata was signed. Bulnes, on the approach
of Santa Cruz, retired, leaving Lima the day before Santa Cruz
entered it, embarked his troops in the fleet, and sailing north, landed
near Huara, in the department of Truxillo. This much increased the
confidence of the Peruvians, who now considered the Chilians as
already captured. Believing that as the rains had commenced, the
Chilians had gone into quarters for the winter, Santa Cruz determined
to pursue them by land, with which intent he made forced marches,
through fog and rain, and overtook the Chilian army at Huara, where
he encamped in a strong position. He considered his enemy to be in
so bad a plight, that he had so little doubt of overcoming them with
ease, that it is said he wrote to his ministers at Lima, in imitation of
Bonaparte, (whom he seems to have taken as his model,) " Ah ! these
Chilians, I have caught them !" His intention was to attack them as
soon as his soldiers had rested after their fatiguing march. The
Chilians did not give him leisure for this, but, to the surprise of Santa
Cruz, attacked him in his trenches. One of the most sanguinary
battles recorded in South American history ensued ; Santa Cruz was
signally defeated, and barely escaped with his life, accompanied by
no more than twenty soldiers. His whole army was entirely cut up,
two of his generals killed, and three taken prisoners. This battle
decided the fate of the Peru-Bolivian Confederation. Santa Cruz was
the first to take the news to Lima. He was joined there by Moran,
whom he placed in the Castle of Callao, with orders to hold out four
months, previous to which time he would bring relief, and reinstate

206 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

himself in authority. He was proceeding to Arequipa, when news
reached him that General Ballevian, the Bolivian commander-in-chief,
had declared against him in Bolivia, and also that General Velasco
was named President ; lastly, Arequipa, the faithful Arequipa, deserted
him, with all his officers, with one or two exceptions. Every where
his life was cried for ; he had but time to mount his horse and fly to
Islay, accompanied by General Miller, Cardeno, and Garcia del Rio,
who still adhered to him. They were hotly pursued by a troop of
cavalry, and arrived just in time to get on board the British sloop-of-
war Samarang, which was lying in the roadstead. Here the Protector
found a resting-place, and is said to have felt himself greatly relieved
from the incessant troubles he had been engaged in for the last three
years. Thus ended his, political career. He was taken to Guayaquil,
where he has since remained, forming new plans to involve his country
in war, for his own personal aggrandizement. He had promised
better for Peru than any other ruler before him, but his ambition
destroyed all the plans he had formed for his country's good, and he
ended by entailing upon her many difficulties and troubles, that will
take a long time to recover from.

Bulnes, after his victory of Yungai, immediately embarked, and
sailed for Callao, where he again disembarked, and took possession of
Lima. Gamarra, as I have before said, was proclaimed President, by
a Congress convoked by himself, which voted at the point of the
bayonet. This has not been unusual in South America, and all the
acts of the Congresses may in fact be called the sole will of the chief
magistrate, under w-hatever title they may be issued. Besides naming
Gamarra President, this Congress inflicted upon the people a new con-
stitution by his direction.

The battle of Yungai, which took place on the 20th January, 1839,
concluded the war with Santa Cruz, and entirely overthrew his power
by the loss of his whole army (in these countries a very few troops
obtain the name). In this battle there were four thousand two hundred
Chilians, and four thousand five hundred Peru-Bolivians engaged.
Fifteen hundred of the former, and two thousand of the latter, were
left dead on the field ; the wounded Chilians were numerous, but those
of the Peru-Bolivians were said to have been put to death in the rout
which ensued. The battle began at six o'clock in the morning, and
was contested for six and a half hours. The Peru-Bolivians complain
that at iis commencement great advantages were bst to them by the
conduct of Colonel Guilaste, who with seven hundred men, betrayed
his trust, and early decided the fate of the battle. It is said that every

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 297

soldier, on both sides, fought " upon his own hook," and continued the
battle as long as he chose, the officers having little or no control over
their men. Indeed, I heard it repeatedly said, that the troops com-
manded the officers, and not the officers the troops. If it had not been
so, many of the acts of cruelty and barbarity that are represented upon
good authority as having occurred, would not have taken place.
These I cannot but consider as destroying all the glory of the day to
the Chilians, whose avowed object in coming to Peru, was to make
war against Santa Cruz, and not against the Peruvians.

Gamarrawas now established firmly in Peru, and the Confederation
broken up. Bulnes and his forces returned to Chili, where he has
since been elevated to the highest office of the republic (that of Presi-
dent). Thus ended the year 1839.

In 1840, Bolivia, after the overthrow of Santa Cruz, became the
prey of rival factions, and Gamarra was invited to come with an
armed force and settle their disputes. No sooner, however, had he
reached Bolivia, than the rival chiefs, forgetting their own quarrels,
united, for their animosity against him exceeded their own little
jealousies. They attacked him at disadvantage, and completely routed
his forces ; he himself was killed in his flight from the field of battle.
The Bolivians in their turn now invaded Peru, but through the media-
tion of Chili, a peace was brought about, which left both Peru and
Bolivia in a state of great anarchy and confusion : all the men of any
note endeavouring to create parties for themselves.

The above sketch of the history of Peru has been obtained partly
from persons long resident and eye-witnesses of many of the scenes,
and the few official documents that have been from time to time pub-
lished.

To complete the history of the misgovernment of Peru, I will
now add short biographical sketches of the chiefs who have been the
principal actors in all these troubles and revolutions: these were
obtained from individuals who were personally acquainted with most
of them.

In the order of events, as they have occurred, Bolivar stands first ;
his history is, however, too well known to need any detail. He
undoubtedly had talents, and was probably at first an honest and
conscientious patriot. He split upon the rock that had already
wrecked so many before him. His desire of personal aggrandizement
caused him to forget that he set out to promote the welfare and happi-
ness of his country. He consequently fell a victim to his disappointed
ambition, and for many years previous to his death, accused his

38

298 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

country, which he believed to be indebted to him, of ingratitude, for
not preferring his interests to her own happiness. Notwithstanding
his many faults, posterity will give him due credit for his meritorious
actions. This, however, does not satisfy the South Americans. Their
taste and customs lead them to desire present gratification rather
than posthumous fame. It is remarkable, that not one of the men that
the revolutions in South America have brought forth, appears to have
been influenced by the feeling that he was serving his country.

La Mar was, during the early part of the war of the revolution, in
the Spanish service ; but he afterwards joined the popular side. He
served with great credit to himself until the close of it, and contri-
buted much to the success of the last and decisive battle of Ayacucho.
After this he retired to Guayaquil, where he had married a lady of
good family, and remained quietly in the enjoyment of domestic com-
fort, until he was called to the presidency of Peru. He was a man of
respectable talents, pure and unsuspected integrity, and universally
esteemed in private life. He died in Central America, whither he had
been banished by Gamarra, leaving a reputation much fairer than that
of any of his associates.

Gamarra also had served for several years in the Spanish army,
before the revolution broke out. He early joined the patriot side. As
a subaltern, he acquired the reputation of being an active and zealous
officer; but on his promotion to higher grades, he is said to have dis-
played, in the battles and skirmishes in which he was engaged, but
little military skill, and his courage was more than once questioned.
At the close of the war, he was raised to the rank of general of
division ; and his first act, as has been seen, was to desert La Mar at
Portete, which manifested both his treachery and cowardice. His
success has been ascribed to his skill in intrigue, and to his making
use of the patronage of his station to effect his purposes. He trampled
upon the rights of those over whom he ruled, while at the same time
he was making the strongest professions in favour of democratic
principles, and the rights of the people. Under the pretext of
restoring to his country its violated constitution, he has twice over-
thrown the established authorities, and placed himself in power at
the point of the bayonet. Lavish of the public treasure, and equally
careless in the economy of his private affairs, he lived and died
in poverty. False in his friendships, and unforgiving in his enmities,
he was especially to be feared by those with whom he became
apparently reconciled after a quarrel. He has left but few admirers,
although through his management he contrived to hold the reins of

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 299

government longer than any one who has yet occupied the presidential
chair.

Lafuente was a cadet in the Spanish service, but joined the patriot
cause. He did not gain much reputation in the war of the revolution,
and his first essay as a general officer was a disobedience of orders
in landing at Callao, while on his way to join La Mar, at the same
time uniting in intrigues with Gamarra, whom he succeeded in getting
nominated as President, and himself as Vice-President. These two
chiefs appear to have understood each other, and, to avoid collision in
the division of the spoils, agreed that each should pursue his leading
passion. Gamarra accordingly conferred honours and rewards, whilst
Lafuente indulged his mercenary propensity in the accumulation of
wealth. The latter has grown rich, by robbing the people and by
farming: out the resources of the state to his agents and friends.

o «--

Although certainly not the only chief magistrate who has plundered
the state, he is, perhaps, the only one in Peru who has hoarded his ill-
gotten wealth, and obtained affluence whilst his country was impo-
verished. He is still living, and was acting as chief during our visit
to Lima.

Orbejoso served in the patriot army during the revolution, and at
the close of the war retired to his estate near Truxillo, with but little
reputation. There he remained until elected to the presidency, in
1831. Without talents as a statesman or courage as a soldier, he
acquired more popularity than any other of his contemporaries in
Peru. He undoubtedly sold his country to Santa Cruz, receiving as
the price of it the appointment of President of North Peru, or rather
that of one of Santa Cruz's lieutenants. At the moment of a threatened
invasion from Chili, he renounced the Confederation, in order to
acquire independent command, and regained much of his lost popu-
larity by a show of patriotism and gallantry in opposing the invading
force. His imbecility and want of knowledge, together with the
conduct of General Nieto, lost him the battle under the walls of Lima,
as well as the possession of the city, and all his troops. Soon after-
wards, he was found in retirement at Guayaquil, where he has been
constantly occupied in forming plans for his reinstatement to power.

Salaverry served as a cadet in the last year of the revolution, and
was esteemed an enterprising and gallant officer. He was, however,
of a reckless disposition, and it is related that he threatened to shoot
his mother, who had opposed one of his youthful freaks. Others, how-
ever, bear testimony to his good conduct in all his domestic relations,
and to his kindness and generosity. When he usurped the supreme

300 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

authority, he had only about two hundred men at his command, yet in
less than three months the whole country had recognised his authority
and government. In his short public career he certainly displayed violent
passions, and he evinced cruelty in many of his acts; but he seems at
times to have had impulses of generosity, though they may have been but
feeble. When he assumed the command, and declared himself Supreme
Chief, he banished General Nieto, a superior officer. The captain of
the vessel in which he went was induced to land him in the north of
Peru, where he collected some troops, and made war upon Salaverry,
who immediately marched against him, vowing vengeance for what
he termed his ungrateful conduct, in return for his lenity. On
Salaverry's approach, one of Nieto's followers betrayed him, and he
was surprised and captured. Salaverry immediately invited him to
his tent; they supped and slept together on the same hide, but he after-
wards banished him from Peru.

Another act, which does not show him in quite so amiable a light,
was his ordering General Valle Reistra, an old companion, an estima-
ble and good officer, to be torn from his wife at midnight, and within
her hearing shot in cold blood, for no alleged crime, but it is supposed
merely for the purpose of striking terror into his opponents. Salaverry
was full of energy, both to determine and execute his plans, and evinced
talents which, had they been controlled by judgment and guided by
moral principle, might have consolidated his power and saved his
country from the anarchy which has since existed. He possessed the
true spirit to rule the Peruvians, so far as energy was concerned ; and
before Peru becomes settled, she will need some military despotism, in
order to break down the small and numerous contending chiefs, who
prove, as each gains the ascendency, the worst of tyrants. The mode
of his death has already been spoken of.

Santa Cruz was in the Spanish service at the commencement of the
revolution, and being captured by the patriots, was for some time a
prisoner in Buenos Ayres. On his liberation he espoused the popular
cause, and was for a short time at the head of the government in
Peru, where he had been placed by Bolivar, and continued until the
setting aside of that chieftain's authority, and the election of La Mar
as President. Santa Cruz was expelled by the intrigues of his enemies,
but was afterwards employed as minister to Chili. His subsequent
elevation to the presidency of Bolivia has led to the suspicion that he
participated in the assassination of the former President, Blanco; and
his patronage of the known actors in that affair, gave strong grounds
for believing the truth of the report.

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 301

Santa Cruz is a man of ordinary talents, but of sound common sense.
From his education (which is superior to that of his countrymen) he is
far in advance of them in his knowledge and appreciation of the insti-
tutions of other countries. He is indefatigable in his labours, and
always exacts the attention of others to their duties. His passions are
strong and his temper unforgiving. Mercenary in his disposition, and
economical in his habits, he has always been lavish of the public
treasure to promote his own views. From his liberal cast of mind, he
generally manifested a strong desire to forward the introduction of
improvements, and to adopt such measures as would tend to improve
the state and its people. His measures undertaken for this purpose,
were sometimes arbitrary, and by them, and his desire to engross all
the power in his own person, he lost much popularity. Foreigners
esteemed him as one of the most efficient chief magistrates that have
ever presided over this unfortunate country.

For the purpose of elucidating the character of the proceedings of
the chiefs in this country, I will conclude by giving a translation of
one of the decrees, establishing the government of South Peru, by
Santa Cruz.

Considerando.

1. That the government of South Peru remains incomplete by the
death and absence of some of the persons composing it.

2. That the necessity exists, that that government should have an
organization more simple than it has yet enjoyed.

It is decreed.

Article 1. That the government of South Peru be composed of a
Provisionary President, and a Secretary-General, who shall transact
all the ordinary affairs of the Interior and Hacienda, agreeably to the
laws, orders, and existing decrees.

Article 2. The Provisional President will place his rubric to all the
resolutions and official papers, and sign, with the Secretary-General,
the decrees which he may issue.

Article 3. The Provisional President and Secretary are responsible
for all the acts of his administration.

Article 4. There shall be two Secretaries, one for the Interior, the
other for the Hacienda, with the necessary subordinates.

Article 5. The Provisional President will fill all the vacant places,
and displace any from bad conduct, or the neglectful performance of
his duties, or transfer them to other posts, as he may deem best for
the public benefit.

302 POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

Article 6. He may lay duties, if they should be necessary for the
wants of the service or state.

Article 7. He will have all the executive power which may be
necessary for the security, order, and regulation of the state, in every
thing that is not reserved by this present decree ; notwithstanding, he
cannot, take the proper rights belonging to the executive power, neither
give orders nor resolutions contrary to the existing legislation, nor to
the decrees which may be in full force, but to facilitate, make clear, and
do away with the difficulties which may impede their execution, and
that they may be able to execute the intended reforms and mandates.

Article 8. The Provisional President of South Peru will receive the
honours and treatment which are due to a chief having executive
power, and the Secretary-General those corresponding to a minister
of the cabinet.

My Secretary-General is charged with the execution of the present
decree, who will have it printed and circulated.

Given in the Protectoral Palace of Puno, 17th September, 1837.

(Signed) ANDRES SANTA CRUZ.

The Secretary-General,

M. DE LA CRUZ MENDEZ.

Another decree followed this, of the same date, appointing General
Herrera the Provisional President, and Colonel Don Juan Jose Lavrea
Secretary-General.

The results of my inquiries into the commerce and trade of Peru,
are by no means satisfactory. The vacillating policy pursued towards
the trade has been most extraordinary; and some of those engaged in
commercial pursuits have frequently been enabled, through the neces-
sities of the government, to reap many advantages. Much illicit trade
was carried on, even before the revolution, under the Spanish rule.
The restriction laid by its authority on commerce, kept the prices of
imports high, whilst the low value of exports, left to the arbitrarv
demand of monopolists, prevented or diminished the means of these
countries to pay for what they wanted from abroad.

From this state of things resulted the limited trade and enormous
profits to a few individuals, under the colonial system. As soon as the
ports were opened, an expansion took place, and the trade was entirely
overdone. The markets became glutted with all kinds of foreign
fabrics, and many ruinous voyages were made from ignorance of the
wants of the people, and their means of payment.

For the last ten years the trade has been better understood. The

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU. 303

demand and the means of payment have been more accurately ascer-
tained, and a healthy and increasing commerce has been carried on,
as far as the state of the country and the fluctuations, which are
inseparable from a distant traffic, would permit. The commerce of
Peru will not bear a comparison with that of Chili, and while the
former has been diminishing, the latter has been rapidly increasing.
A portion of the supplies which were formerly sent to Peru direct, are
now obtained in Chili, and sent to their destination in coasting vessels.
This change has been brought about by the unwise policy pursued by
the various Peruvian rulers, in imposing heavy transit duties. This
is also in part to be attributed to the advantageous situation of Valpa-
raiso, where purchasers are always to be found for articles for the
leeward coast. There is little doubt in the minds of those who are
most competent to judge, that Valparaiso must become the principal
mart of foreign commerce on the west coast of America.

The foreign trade of Peru is principally carried on by the English,
Americans, and French. Of late years, a good many German and
Spanish vessels also have been sent thither ; and occasionally some of
the Mediterranean flags are seen on the coast.

The annual imports into Peru are combined so much with those of
Chili, that it was deemed proper to include them under the one head ;
those of Peru amount to about two-fifths of the whole. Of these
imports, part go to Guayaquil; the Intermedios, or South Peru and
Bolivia, take about one million from Chili and Lima. The returns
made from Peru are as follows:

In dollars and bullion, .... $4,500,000
Bark, hides, wool, cotton, &c., . . . 500,000

$5,000,000

It will be perceived, that both in Peru and Chili, the imports and
exports are nearly the same in amount ; and the question naturally
arises, whence the profits on the trade? It is readily answered that,
as has been already said, large quantities of goods are annually sold
in Chili and Peru for Central America, the proceeds of which are
shipped thence direct to Europe and the United States, and do not
appear in the above note of exports.

These countries ofler a large market for our domestic cottons ; and
if the prices can be maintained, the United States will supply the most
of the coarser kinds used there. I have it from the best authority, that
the consumption of these goods is now double what it was five years
ago, and it is still increasing.

304

POLITICAL HISTORY OF PERU.

The article of flour, however, has greatly fallen off: previous to
1830, there were nearly thirty thousand barrels exported to Peru from
the United States; in the last three years, only six thousand; and in
1841, but one thousand; in consequence of Peru being abundantly
supplied from Chili.

FOUNTAIN' AT LIMA.

CHAPTER XV.

CONTENTS.

STORE SHIP RELIEF— EDWIN BARTLETT, ESa.— EDWARD M'CALL, ESa.— DEPARTURE-
CAPTAIN M'KEEVER — PERUVIAN BRIG — SMALL-POX — GENERAL ORDER — PROPOSED
ROUTE— CURRENTS— EXPERIMENTS— TEMPERATURE— ALEXANDER OGLE — CLERMONT
DE TONNERRE— APPEARANCE OF IT— SURVEY — NATIVES — JOHN SAC — DIFFICULTIES
WITH THE NATIVES— LANDING— SERLE ISLAND— HONDEN— SURVEYS-€ORAL ISLANDS
—VEGETATION— BIRDS, ETC.— DISAPPOINTMENT ISLANDS— INHABITANTS— WYTOOHEE
— OTOOHO-TAIARA— RARAK A — LANDING— ONE HANDED CHIEF— HIS VISIT TO THE
SHIP— INHABITANTS— CATCHING FISH — LEAVE-TAKING— GALE— NARROW ESCAPE OF
PEACOCK — PORPOISE DESPATCHED — VINCENNES ISLAND — CRITICAL POSITION OF
TENDER— LANDING— ARATICA ISLAND— COMMUNICATION WITH ITS INHABITANTS-
LANDING — VILLAGE — DESCRIPTION OF ISLAND — FRESH WATER — FOOD — TENDER
DESPATCHED TO KING GEORGE'S GROUP — VINCENNES AND PEACOCK DISCOVER
MANHII AND AHII ISLANDS— SURVEY— LANDING— OBSERVATIONS — NATIVES— DESER-
TER-ECLIPSE—PEACOCK DESPATCHED TO RURICK ISLAND— VINCENNES PASSES TO
NAIRSA-INHABITANTS— KRUSENSTERN'S ISLAND— METIA ISLAND— ITS APPEARANCE
—SURVEY— LANDING— NATIVES— MISSIONARIES' KINDNESS— COSTUMES— ASCEND THE
ISLAND — VEGETATION — APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND— DEPARTURE— ARRIVAL AT
TAHITI— ANCHOR IN MATAVAI BAY— OBSERVATIONS ON POINT VENUS— PROCEEDINGS
OF PORPOISE — PROCEEDINGS OF PEACOCK — ARUTUA— SURVEY— NAIRSA OR DEAN'S
ISLAND-CORAL BLOCKS-METIA ISLAND-OBSERVATIONS-TETUAROA— FLYING-FISH
-TIOKEA AND OURA-HISTORY OF PAUMOTU GROUP-CHARACTER OF ITS INHABI-
TA NTS— POPULATION.

(305)

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CHAPTER XV.

PAUMOTU GROUP.
1839.

ON the 13th July we had finished the necessary outfits and taken in
our stores. The remainder of the latter were embarked in the store-
ship Relief, which was ordered to land a part of them at the Sandwich
Islands, and the rest at Sydney, New South Wales, after which to
proceed to the United States by the way of Cape Horn.

We took leave of our kind friends, Edwin Bartlett, Esq., United
States Charge d'Affaires, and Edward M'Call, Esq., United States
Consul. To both of these gentlemen I am under many obligations for
their kindness, and information in relation to the country and its
affairs. Their long residence had made them familiar with those
subjects; and many of the transactions they communicated had
happened under their own eyes.

At 5 p. M., having a light breeze, the signal was made to get under
way, and we were soon standing out of the bay under all canvass.
Captain M'Keever accompanied us until we reached the point of
San Lorenzo. On his taking leave, we expressed our thanks for the
important aid he had rendered us, by giving him several hearty
cheers.

The day after our departure, we fell in with a Peruvian brig, from
San Bias, in want of water, which we supplied. She had fallen to
leeward of her port, and her people were reduced to much distress for
want of that necessary article.

I had felt much anxiety lest the small-pox should make its appear-
ance among us, and looked forward daily with apprehension to the
hour when the sick reports were made. On the J4th my worst fears
were realized, for the Peacock made signal that they had a case of
that disease on board. It fortunately proved of a mild type, and no

(30")

308 PAUMOTU GROUP.

other symptoms occurred that left any doubt of the entire extinction
of the contagion. I was, therefore, greatly relieved, as day after day
elapsed, to be assured that we had not only escaped so dreadful a
scourge ourselves, but that there was no danger of its being communi-
cated to the islanders.

Being now about to enter upon a new field of observation, in which
we should necessarily come much in contact with the natives, I issued
the following General Order, to guard against any misdemeanours, and
insure a correct deportment in both officers and men, during our inter-
course with the islanders.

GENERAL ORDER.

The undersigned, commanding the Exploring Expedition, informs
the officers and crews under his command, that as they are now about
to visit the Islands of the Pacific, and to have intercourse with their
inhabitants, he wishes to inculcate on all in the squadron, that courtesy
and kindness towards the natives, which are well understood and felt
by all classes of mankind ; and trusts that neither contempt of, nor
interference with, their customs, habits, manners, and prejudices, nor
arrogance over them will be shown by any one belonging to the
squadron ; bearing always in mind, that savage nations have but
vague ideas of the rights of property, and that theft committed by
them has been the great cause of collision between them and civilized
nations.

He would therefore enjoin upon all great moderation in every thing
respecting their intercourse with them, that no act of hostility will be
committed, and that an appeal will be made rather to their good-will
than to their fears.

That the manner of trading with them which will be established in
the squadron, will be most strictly adhered to by all, and that in the
event of difficulties or collision, all acts of force will be avoided, unless
for self-protection; in short, our aim shall be peace, good-will, and
proper decorum to every class, bearing constantly in mind, that the
future intercourse of our countrymen with the natives of the islands
we may visit, will very much depend on the impression made on their
minds by us, and recollecting, that it is in the nature of the savage
long to remember benefits, and never to forget injuries.

It therefore behooves us, wherever we go, to leave behind us, whether
among civilized or savage nations, favourable impressions, not only as
respects this national Expedition, but of our flag and countrymen.
The Commander-in-chief feels a confidence in relying on the officers
and crews to carry out these views, from their good and exemplary

P A U M 0 T U GROUP. 309

conduct heretofore, and trusts that he will not have to regret the confi-
dence he reposes in them.

Any acts inconsistent with these views, will meet with the most
exemplary punishment.

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
July 13th, 1839.
United States Ship Vincennes.

I had determined, on leaving Callao, to take up the examination of
the Paumotu Group, recommended to the Expedition by that distin-
guished navigator and promoter of science, Admiral Krusenstern,
whose notes were made a part of my instructions, and have been
already referred to in Appendix V. I therefore steered for the island
of Minerva, or Clermont de Tonnerre, one of the most eastern of the
Paumotu Group, or Cloud of Islands, as the name implies. I deemed
this to be the most interesting point at which to begin our surveys, and
the researches of our naturalists, particularly as it was inhabited, and
would thus enable us to trace the inhabitants from one end of Poly-
nesia to the other, across the Pacific. At the same time, it afforded a
very desirable point for magnetic observations, and a visit to it would
also enable me to settle a dispute between the two distinguished
English and French navigators, Captains Beechey and Duperrey, rela-
tive to its geographical position. The longitude adopted for Callao,
from which our measurements were made, was 79° 11' 10" W. This
I found to correspond well with that of Valparaiso, the meridian
distance between the two being 5° 31' 50".

On the 14th we found the current setting to the northwest-by-west
three quarters of a mile per hour.

The 15th, at one hundred and twenty miles from the land, we had
changed the temperature of the surface to 67°, being a difference of 7°.
At three hundred fathoms depth, it was found to be 51°. This day the
current was found setting south-half-east, half a mile per hour.

The 16th brought several showers of rain, the first we had expe-
rienced since the 8th of June, off Valparaiso. Here we again tried the
current, but found none. I now continued the usual experiments on
the deep-sea temperature, dips, variation, currents, the visibility of a
white object in water, and the dip of the horizon, for which I must
refer the reader to the tabular results, only mentioning such as are
generally interesting.

On the 18th, the surface water was 70°, and at two hundred and
ninety fathoms depth, 50°.

On the 24th, in longitude 99° 39' W., we found the current setting

310 PAUMOTU GROUP.

southeast half a mile per hour, and directly against the wind. Our
latitude was 15° 35' S.

Until the 29th we had moderate breezes. The current this day was
found east-northeast, one-third of a mile per hour. At 9 p. M. the wind
came from the west. This evening we had a beautiful display of the
zodiacal light. It was very bright; its altitude was 25°; the upper
part of the cone was not well marked, and its apex was not defined ;
the breadth of its base was 30°. A fair breeze from the southwest con-
tinued all the next day, when we had reached the longitude of 113° 29'
W., and latitude 17° 36' S.

On the 31st, we passed over the locality of an island marked on the
charts of Arrowsmith. Although we ran over its position with the
squadron spread so as to cover an extent of thirty-five miles in latitude,
and on its parallel for several degrees, lying-to at night, nothing what-
ever was seen to indicate land ; and we therefore believe that it does
not exist.

On the 4th of August, the current was found north one-third of a
mile per hour.

Temperature at surface, . . . 75°

50 fathoms below surface, ... 74

100 " " " . 73i

200 " " " . GJ

300 " " " . 50

On the 5th, the current was two-thirds of a mile per hour, to the
north-northeast.

The winds on the parallel of 18° S., cannot well be termed "the
Trades," for at this time of the year they will be found very variable,
though prevailing generally from the eastern quarter, with a long swell
from the southwest. The upper stratum of clouds were generally seen
flying from the southwest. The deep-sea temperature on the 6th, at
three hundred and fifty fathoms depth, was 46°, surface 77°.

The 7th proved a calm and fine day, throughout which experiments
were made hourly to ascertain the depth at which a white object could
be seen ; the altitude of the sun was taken at each observation, and
also the force and direction of the current. The temperature of the
water at one hundred fathoms was 75°, whilst that of the surface was
77°. We were in longitude 125° W., latitude 18° 14' S.

The nights of the 8th, 9th, 10th, and llth, the meteoric showers
were looked for, the officers and naturalists keeping watch, each
quarter of the heavens being under vision at the same time. On the
8th, upwards of one hundred shooting stars were seen ; but the nights

P A U M O T U GROUP. 31 1

of the 9th, 10th, and llth, were cloudy. On the former we had much
lightning, thunder, and rain, with squalls from the southwest.

On the 12th, Corporal Alexander Ogle, of the marines, died of
inflammation of the brain. He was a valuable man, and had been
promoted for his good conduct. He possessed the confidence of his
officers, and the esteem of his corps. In the afternoon all hands were
called to bury the dead, and his body was committed to the deep, the
usual ceremonies being performed by the chaplain, and the vessels of
the squadron having their colours at half-mast.

On the 13th of August, at five o'clock, P. M., we made Clermont de
Tonnerre, or Minerva Island, and by careful observations the next day,
found its southeast point to be in longitude 136° 21' 12" W., latitude
18° 32' 49" S. Clermont de Tonnerre, being the first low coral island
we had met, naturally excited a great deal of interest. We had
pictured them to ourselves as being a kind of fairy-land, and therefore
looked for them with some anxiety. At first sight the island appeared
much like a fleet of vessels at anchor, nothing but the trees being seen
in the distance, and as the ship rises and sinks with the swell of the
ocean, these are alternately seen and lost sight of. On a nearer
approach, the whole white beach was distinctly seen, constituting a
narrow belt of land, of a light clay colour, rising up out of the deep
ocean, the surf breaking on its coral reefs, surrounding a lagoon of a

beautiful blue tint, and perfectly smooth. This island was twelve feet
above the level of the sea, and six hundred feet wide to its lagoon, and
is composed of coral debris and vegetable matter. The shrubs are
few, and not more than from twelve to fifteen feet high ; the Cocoa-
nut palms and Pandanus, showing conspicuously above them. We
found it, by our survey, to be ten miles long, by one and a half wide,
lying in a west-northwest and east-southeast direction. The first
sounding, on the east side of the island, at three hundred feet from the
reef, was obtained in ninety fathoms (coral sand) ; at one hundred and
eighty feet, eighty-five fathoms (coral sand) ; at one hundred and

312 PAUMOTU GROUP.

thirty feet, seven fathoms (hard coral), being at the edge of a nearly
perpendicular shelf; thence to the shore, the bottom was uneven,
decreasing to four, three, and two fathoms, until a second or upper
coral shelf rose, over which the water at high tide flowed. This
extended to where the beach is composed of broken coral and shells,
and arose on a gentle declivity to ten feet high.

The Peacock sounded within three quarters of a mile from the
southern point of the island : at three hundred and fifty fathoms, the
lead brought up for a moment, and then again descended to six hundred
fathoms without reaching bottom. When it was hauled up, it had a
small piece of white and another of red coral attached to it. The
west side of the island is a bare reef, over which the surf breaks
violently. There is no opening or entrance to the lagoon.

For the purpose of surveying the island, the Peacock and Flying-
Fish took the west side, while the Vincennes and Porpoise kept on
the east. Boats were lowered and sent on shore for the purpose of
landing; several of the officers and naturalists succeeded in reaching
the beach, (swimming through the surf,) where they remained about
two hours making collections.

I saw some natives, five men and two wromen, and endeavoured to
hold communication with them. The former were armed with long
spears. They were cautiously watching our movements; and after
the boats had left, they were seen examining the beach for articles
that might have been dropped. Every inducement was held out to
them to approach my boat, but without success ; and we were obliged
to return on board for the night, not having succeeded in finishing
the survey. Wishing to communicate with the natives, and effect a
landing, we lay-to, and by morning found that we had drifted off
from the island eight miles to the northwest, and did not again reach
our station until towards the afternoon. I then proceeded to the
beach, taking with me as interpreter, John Sac, a New Zealander,
who spoke the Tahitian language, determined, if possible, to enter
into communication with the natives, and to land to make observa-
tions. Seventeen natives were now seen on the beach, armed with
long spears and clubs, which they were brandishing with menacing atti-
tudes, making motions for me to retire. As I approached them with
a white flag flying, many more were seen in the bushes, probably in
all about one hundred. I told John Sac to speak to them, which he
did, and found he was understood. The only answer he could get
from them was, several of them crying out at the same time, " Go to
your own land ; this belongs to us, and we do not want to have any
thing to do with you." It was impossible to beach the boat without

PAUMOTU GROUP. 313

injury, on account of the surf and coral ; and in order to land, it was
necessary to swim a short distance, which could not be done without
our being attacked, and suffering injury, before we had established a
friendly intercourse. I therefore had recourse to throwing presents to
them, — all of which they eagerly took, — assuring them that we were
friends ; but they still continued warning us off, and threatening us
with their long spears. I am rather inclined now to think our
interpreter was partly the cause of my not succeeding in overcoming
their fears and scruples. John Sac was truly a savage, although he
had imbibed some feelings of discipline, and was generally a well-
disposed fellow. He was a petty New Zealand chief at the Bay of
Islands, and had resided some time at Tahiti, where he said he was
married. At times it was difficult to control John's movements. On
this occasion he soon became provoked at the chief's obstinacy ; and
the idea of their receiving all our presents so greedily without even
thanks in return, excited his native fire ; his eyes shone fiercely, and
his whole frame seemed agitated. Half naked as he was, his tattooing
conspicuous, he stood in the bow of the boat brandishing his boat-hook
like a spear with the dexterity of a savage. It was difficult to re-
cognise the sailor in the fierce majestic-looking warrior before us.
The chief and John kept passing words until both were becoming
vociferous, the one appearing as savage as the other. John's animated
attitudes and gestures were the admiration of all. As we could not
understand him, he may have said many things to irritate the savage
chief before he could be silenced, although he afterwards declared his
innocence in that respect. I had been engaged for upwards of an
hour endeavouring to overcome their fears, when I was joined by
several boats from the other vessels. The officers being anxious to
have communication with the natives, were desirous of landing, and I
readily gave them permission to do so without arms. They passed a
short distance from us, hoping to effect their purpose without oppo-
sition, but the natives separated, in order to oppose any landing. One
or two officers swam through the surf without arms, and were boldly
set. upon by three of the natives, when they made a hurried retreat.
This evidently gave the natives confidence, and their conduct became
more violent. Mr. Couthouy requested permission to land with
presents, under the protection of the boat, to which I consented.
He swarn on shore, pausing now and then, for the purpose of showing
the trinkets. The chief motioned him away, but he landed on the
rocks. The chief, retiring, appeared as if somewhat alarmed, while
Mr. Couthouy advanced towards him, holding out the presents. On
being joined by another native, the chief stopped, raised his spear,
VOL. i. 40

314 PAUMOTU GROUP.

and with a shout and distortion of countenance, made a pass at Mr.
Couthouy, who at once dropped looking-glasses, trinkets, &c., at his
feet, and quickly made for the boat. The savage took no notice of
the relinquished offerings, but advanced to attack him with his spear.
When he had reached the edge of the surf, the chief made another
thrust at him, but fortunately without injury. This precipitate retreat
gave them still more confidence ; they now began throwing pieces of
coral, numbers of which struck the men in my boat. I felt no dispo-
sition to do them harm, and yet I had no idea of letting them see and
feel that they had driven us off without landing, well knowing, how-
ever, if a forcible landing took place, and they made resistance, that
injury would befall one side, and probably both. I, therefore, thinking
that they had no idea of fire-arms, ordered several blank cartridges to
be fired; but they took no notice of them.* According to John Sac,
they hooted at these arms, calling us cowards, and daring us to come
on shore. I then fired a small charge of mustard-seed shot at their
legs, which did not produce any effect. Then, Mr. Peale, who was
near by me, was requested to draw his ball, and load with mustard-
seed, which he did ; and Lieutenant North likewise fired, which caused
the chief and all the rest to retreat, rubbing their legs. The officers
were now permitted to land, under strict injunctions, in order to avoid
all contact with the natives, not to leave the beach. So much time had
been lost before I could get the instruments safely on shore, that I found
it too late to make the observations I desired.

The natives whom we saw, appeared a fine athletic race, much
above the ordinary size. Their colour was darker than that of our
Indians, but their features resembled them. No tattooing was observed
on the men, and the women were not seen close enough to distinguish
them. The hair of the former was long, black, and straight. The
chiefs had theirs drawn back, and tied in a knot behind ; the others
had theirs hanging loose. They wore a small maro made of leaves,
and the chiefs a pandanus-leaf around their necks, probably to dis-
tinguish their rank. The women wore a piece of tapa as a petticoat;
they were not oiled, and the heads of some seemed filled with ashes or
lime. They spoke and understood the Tahitian dialect. The only
information obtained from them was, that vessels had before been
there, but had gone away without landing.

Immediately on their being driven from the beach, a large column
of smoke was seen, no doubt a signal to the other inhabitants of the

* I have since understood, however, that the poor natives have been fired upon by trading
vessels engaged in the pearl-fishery, in mere wantonness, which will account for their
hostile reception of us.

PAUMOTU GROUP. 315

island. After being on the reef half an hour, we joined our boats, and
returned on board near sunset. One canoe was reported, the next
morning, as having been seen from the Peacock.

The number of inhabitants that we saw certainly did not exceed one
hundred and twenty.

The common house-fly was found in great numbers at this island.
A number of fish were caught ; some shells, and specimens of most of
the plants, were also procured.

After lying-to for the night, we, at daylight on the 16th, bore away
for Serle Island, having first ascertained our distance from the point
of Clermont de Tonnerre by triangulation. We then ran by the patent
log for Serle Island direct, by which means we made the distance
between the two islands, twenty-six miles and two-tenths. No signs
of any other island exist between these two. This will, I think, settle
the question between Duperrey and Beechey. The latter is undoubtedly
wrong as respects the longitude of Clermont de Tonnerre, which he
places some twenty minutes too far to the eastward, and I doubt not some
accidental error has occurred in his observations ; for I find, at Serle
Island, Duperrey, Beechey, and myself, agree within a few minutes.

Serle is a low coral island, and has a large and very regular clump
of trees on its western end, which at a distance might be taken for a
mound or hill. Its length is seven miles, and its width one and a
fourth. It lies in a northwest and southeast direction. There are but
few inhabitants on it. The position of its southeast end is in latitude
18° 21' 10" S., longitude 137° 04' 10" W.

The vessels again separated for its survey ;* boats were sent to trace
the reef, and have communication with the natives, if possible. Before
night we had completed our survey, and the boats returned. Lieu-
tenant Alden, in charge of one of them, reported that he had had
communication with the natives, who were very friendly and desirous
of holding intercourse with him. He obtained several articles of
curiosity from them. Some of them were tattooed. They were found
to be arrant thieves, wishing to carry off every thing they saw, trying
even to pull the copper off* the blades of the oars, — and all this appa-
rently without any idea that it was wrong. When first seen they
were armed with spears, but observing that we did not attempt to
land, they sent them away in charge of a boy, and swam off to the
boat.

I now determined to wait until the next day, for the purpose of
having further communication with them, and ordered every thing to

* For the mode of making- the surveys* of the Coral Islands, see Appendix XLI.

316 PAUMOTU GROUP.

be prepared for an early landing; but during the night, the officer of
the deck of the Porpoise (Acting Master Sinclair) ran into the Vin-
cennes, and did both vessels some injury, smashing the starboard
quarter boat, which broke adrift, cutting off our backstays, and losing
some of the head-spars of the Porpoise. By this accident we lost our
position, and in the morning found ourselves so far to the leeward,
that I knew it must occupy much time — which we could not afford to
lose — before we could regain the island. I therefore reluctantly bore
away to the northward, to pass over the localities of one or two doubt-
ful islands, on our way to that of Honden.

On the 19th of August we made Henuake, Honden, or Dog Island,
and came up with it about noon. The boats were at once despatched,
in order to ascertain if a landing could be effected, and the ships began
the surveying operations. The surf was found very heavy on the
beach, but the boats notwithstanding succeeded in landing. The
number of birds seen hovering over the island was an indication that
it was not inhabited, which proved to be the case. Several turtles
were caught, and a number of specimens obtained. The survey of the
island not having been completed, I lay by all night, and early in the
morning despatched boats to complete the examination of it, and to
effect a landing. The greatest part of the day was spent on the island.
Near the place where we landed, there has been a channel to the small
lagoon in the centre of the island, and there is another of a similar
character on the opposite side. They were both dry, and the sea-
water can only communicate with the lagoon at very high tides.
From our observations of the day, the usual neap tide is three and a
half feet, and it would give high water at full and change of the moon,
at 2 r. M.

SECTION OF CORAL ISLAND.

There are many blocks of compact coral, just at high-water mark,
quite black on the outside, but on fracture they showed the white coral.
The white coral shelf over which the sea flows at high water was two
hundred feet broad, the low water falling two feet below its surface;
it is quite level, but there are many holes and large longitudinal cracks
in it. On this lies the compact coral above spoken of, extending

PAUMOTU GROUP. 317

beneath the coral sand. It is about ten or twelve feet wide. The coral-
sand beach above the compact layer has eight feet perpendicular rise,
and lies at an angle of 47°. On the top of this are small pieces of coral,
which have been thrown up by the sea, around the roots of trees and
shrubs, growing to the height of from fifteen to twenty feet. We found
the water in the lagoon quite salt, and very warm. Its bottom for a
long distance was filled with a fine deposit of calcareous mud, about
six inches in depth. The water had apparently evaporated from the
lagoon, and to the taste was much salter than the ocean. Purslane
(Portulaca) was found growing in a thrifty state in this deposit.
Where the lagoon was deeper, some fine specimens of corals were
observed and obtained. No traces of inhabitants were perceived on
this island. The state of nature in which the birds were found, and
other indications, gave proof that it had not been inhabited, at least for
some time. There were a great many sharks, both in the lagoon and
outside, which were so ravenous that they bit at the oars. It was by
no means pleasant to have to swim through the surf to the boat with
these dangerous animals so numerous around us.

The landing on a coral island effectually does away with all pre-
conceived notions of its beauty, and any previous ideas formed in its
favour are immediately put to flight. That verdure which seemed from
a distant view to carpet the whole island, was in reality but a few
patches of wiry grass, obstructing the walking, and offering neither
fruit nor flowers to view ; it grew among the rugged coral debris, with
a little sand and vegetable earth.

The principal trees and shrubs are the Pandanus, Boerhaavia, and
Pisonia. It is somewhat surprising that a few trees forty or fifty feet
high should have found sufficient soil to protect their growth. Most
of the trees, however, are of stunted size, being not more than ten to
fifteen feet in height, and eighteen inches in diameter.

Van Schouten and Le Maire visited this island, 10th April, 1616.
some two hundred years before, and it was even then clothed with
vegetation. If their description is an accurate one, the island appears
now to be rather higher, as they report " from what they could judge,
the greater part of the island is overflowed at high water ;" this is cer-
tainly not the case now. The centre of the island is in latitude 14° 55'
40" S., longitude 138° 47' 36" W.

The number of birds on the island was incredible, and they were so
tarne as to require to be pushed off their nests to get their eggs. The
most conspicuous among them was the frigate-bird (Tachypetis
aquilus) ; many of the trees were covered with their nests, constructed
of a few sticks. The old birds were seen, as they flew off, inflating

318 PAUMOTU GROUP.

their blood-red pouches to the size of a child's head, and looking as if
a large bladder were attached to their necks. The gannets, sooty
terns, and the beautiful tropic-bird, were in countless numbers; the
former guarding their eggs, (which were laid on the ground without a
nest,) with care, remaining by them, and even suffering themselves to
be captured without resistance. Their hoarse croaking was quite
deafening.

Some droll sights were seen of crabs walking off writh snakes, and
both again seized by some stout bird and borne away. Armies of
soldier or piratical crabs (Paguri) were seen moving in all directions
with their shells. We enjoyed ourselves much, and found no use for
our guns, powder, and shot ; as many specimens as we could desire
were taken with the hand, both old and young. In some cases the
tropic-birds were taken off their nests, and from others their eggs were
taken without disturbing them ; indeed, I have never seen any barn-
yard fowls half so tame.

The various snakes, the many-coloured fish, the great eels, enor-
mous and voracious sharks, shells, large molluscs, spiders, with the
curious lepidoptera, seemed to have quiet possession, their webs
stretching in every direction, and occasioning us much annoyance:
all gave a novelty to the scene, that highly interested and delighted us.
In the afternoon we returned on board, loaded with specimens ; and
the survey being completed, we bore away on our course.

There are no cocoa-nut palms on the island, as has been reported
by Captain Fitzroy, in his voyage ; nor is there any fresh water to be
found. Some of our gentlemen saw on the beach some broken oars
and remains of a boat, but nothing could be identified.

Pandanus trees exist on the south side.

On the 23d of August we made the Disappointment Islands of
Byron : they are two in number, called Wytoohee and Otooho. On
the same day, I was informed by Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold,
of the Porpoise, that George Reynolds, ordinary seaman, had died of
chronic pneumonia ; the chaplain went on board in the afternoon, and
performed the last offices.

On the morning of the 24th we were off the northwest end of the
island of Wytoohee, which lies in latitude 14° 09' 30" S., longitude
141° 17' 50" W. Many canoes came off to the ship : as they ap-
proached the vessels, the natives were heard, while at some distance,
singing ; and, as they drew near, the clamour increased, accompanied
with much laughing, and many gesticulations; but none of them could
be induced to come on board, and they were not willing to part with
any thing but some pieces of old matting. An attempt was made to

PAUMOTU GROUP.

319

get some of their paddles, but they rather ridiculed the idea of parting
with them.

CANOE OF WYTOOHEE.

The canoes were quite small, being only from twelve to fifteen feet
long. They generally contained two and sometimes three natives.
Each canoe had an out-rigger, and a projecting point, both before and
behind, by which they get into them from the water. They are formed
of strips of cocoa-nut wood sewed together. Two persons can carry
them. Their paddles were curved backwards.

In order to dispel their fears, articles were given them gratuitously,
and by way of showing their gratitude, they began a monotonous
song or chaunt. They would occasionally stop, look up, and return
the laugh of the crew by a grin ; apparently enjoying the sport as
much as any of them.

NATIVE OF WYTOOHEE.

These natives are peculiar, and appeared totally distinct from any
others we met with in this group, having strong wiry beards and
mustaches, and a different physiognomy. The portrait by Mr. Dray-
ton, gives a very correct idea of them.

I sent one of the boats to the shore, with the interpreter, under
Lieutenant Case, but they refused to allow them to land. No actual

320 PAUMOTU GROUP.

violence was attempted, but Lieutenant Case reported the impractica-
bility of landing without opposition, and injury to themselves and
natives. They received several presents, but they had no fruit to give
in return, as their cocoa-nuts were tabooed. They gave, in exchange,
some articles, consisting of cloth, fish-hooks, adzes, and pearl-shells.
Among the articles seen in their possession, was a fine silk pocket-
handkerchief, showing that they had had communication not long since
with vessels. They refused to part with their spears or clubs. Their
adzes were rudely made, but ground very sharp ; they were formed of
the tridachna or cassis shell, lashed on a handle somewhat resembling
our adze-handles. Knives were also observed in their possession.

The remainder of the day was employed in surveying the island,
which not being finished by night, we lay-to in order to complete it the
next day. On the 25th, the Peacock and Porpoise were ordered on
one side of the island, the Vincennes and tender on the other. Boats
were lowered to effect a landing if possible, and trace the shores.

Wytoohee is formed of islets connected by a washed coral reef, of
irregular shape, with a lagoon having many knolls in it, of various
sizes, some four or five feet above the surface. The southeast portion
is the largest and most thickly wooded, and contains the greatest
number of inhabitants.

After the surveying duties were over, we found ourselves at the
northwest point of the island. The natives who had refused to allow
us to land, were now seen waving green boughs, which is the general
sign of good-will, and a desire to have communication, and many
were seen dancing on the beach, with their spears in their hands. I
gave orders to send the boats to the shore, but on reaching it we
found them still averse to our landing ; they, however, assisted Mr.
Couthouy through the surf to the beach ; but when he had reached it,
they surrounded him, and led him back very gently to the water,
making him distinctly understand that they would not permit him to
visit their huts. They were extremely desirous of obtaining buttons,
pieces of iron, and cloth. We gave them several small articles, but
they could not be persuaded to part with their spears and clubs. The
chief, who was a very old man, was seen lying under a Pandanus
tree, close to the beach, and on being told I wished to see him, and
make him a present, he arose ; his hair was quite gray, and he had a
long and stiff white beard ; his legs were enlarged with the elephan-
tiasis, the swelling being of a white colour, and so large and regular
that many thought he had on sailor's trousers. About twenty natives
were with him on the beach. After being shown the presents I had for
him, he was induced to wade into the water up to his neck to receive

PAUMOTUGROUP. 321

them. On coming alongside the boat, he seemed somewhat uneasy,
until he had gone through the ceremony of rubbing noses, which I
must confess was any thing but agreeable with so dirty and diseased a
person. He was extremely anxious to get hold of the presents, and
amused us by at once plunging them under the water, seeming in no
manner concerned about keeping them dry. He was all the while
making a noise like the purring of a cat. In return for my presents,
he at once offered me the short mantle of matting which he had over
his shoulders.

They understood the Tahitian language. The chief gave his name as
Korokoa, and the name of the island as Wytoohee. He appeared about
sixty years of age, and his teeth were all sound and good.

His brother was the priest, to whom I also gave some presents.
This man had a very remarkable head, the forehead being very high,
and narrow almost to deformity, with a dark and suspicious bright
eye. His hands were deformed, being destitute of joints, and the
lower part bent at right angles. The son of the chief was a remark-
ably fine-looking lad of fifteen. We saw no women, as they had all
been hid. The colour of these natives was much darker than those
. seen before ; in some the hair was inclined to frizzle, and the beard
curly. All the grown men that I saw had mustaches; their features
were strongly marked with a good-humoured expression of counte-
nance ; they wore the maro, and some had a few feathers in their hair.
The boats of the Peacock succeeded in landing on the east side of
the island, where the coral reef shelves at about an angle of 10°, and
having the wind blowing obliquely on it, there is comparatively little
surf. Some half a dozen natives were here seen ; an officer approached
them making signs of friendship, which they returned. At first they
seemed quite timid, meeting the advances made in a manner which
showed that they were anxious to propitiate us, but still fearful. They
were reassured of our good-will by offering them some small presents,
when two old men came forward, holding their arms upright above
their heads, with their hands open, and became desirous of shaking
hands, and even offered to rub noses. Each was armed with a stick,
(for it could not be called a spear,) six or seven feet long : on some of
them were fastened the jaws of the porpoise.

Tney appeared to be greatly astonished, and their looks bespoke
amazement at our appearance. Occasionally, as if to satisfy themselves
of the reality, they would put their hands on us. On receiving a few
trifling presents, they broke forth into the same song or chaunt that was
heard on their first coming towards the ship. The younger ones were
the first to show confidence, and were much disposed to laugh and joke
VOL. i. 41

322 PAUMOTU GROUP.

with the men; and some of the officers thought they recog .ised those
who had been in the canoes the day before.

NATIVES OF WYI'OOIIEE.

On our gentlemen requesting to go to their huts, they seemed to be
thrown into a kind of stupid wonderment, but on being assured they
had nothing to fear, their countenances brightened up, and they led the
way through the wood to an ope:i space, surrounded by pandanus and
cocoa-nut trees. These natives had evidently had communication with
vessels, but I very much doubt if any had landed before. They did not
appear at all alarmed at the firing of guns, but were much surprised to
see the birds killed, holding up their hands, and making ejaculations.
They had no idea of the principles of barter, and allowed any thing to
be taken without opposition, receiving any articles in return with
gratitude and delight. Iron was prized more than any other thing. On
reaching the hu's, inquiry was made of them for their women, when a
general burst of laughter ensued, and they gave us to understand, that
they had penetrated our motive for visiting their island — "That as we
inhabited an island without any women, we wanted to have some."
Nothing more was said to them on the subject. They accompanied us
to the boats, and at parting went through the same ceremonies of
rubbing noses, shaking hands, and raising their arms with the palms
towards us. According to the estimate I made of the inhabitan's, the
number was about ninety. From the great age of the chiefs, and the

PATIMOTU GROUP. 323

absence of wounded or scarred individuals, I should conclude they
lived in peace. They, however, gave their neighbours on the small
island to the west (which they called O;ooho), a very bad name.
Water in small quantities is to be had on the eastern section of the
island, and a little biche-de-rnar might be taken on the reefs. A small
rat was very troublesome to the natives. This island has some Cocoa-
nut, Bread-fruit, and Pandanus trees; the Pisonia, Tournefortia, and
the shrubs that are common to the low islands, also grow upon it.

The huts of the natives scarcely deserve the name; they are merely
four or five poles, with both ends stuck in the ground, forming an arch
on which strips are tied, and over these the leaves of the cocoa-nut,
mats, and grass, are laid. They are about six or eight feet long, four
feet high, and about five feet wide, barely sufficient to keep out the
sun, and entirely useless as a protection from rain.

NATIVE HUT.

Their utensils are small, and seemed ill adapted to their use. Their
baskets were suspended from the tops of their huts and from trees. The
natives seemed destitute of tapa. No anchorage was found at this
island.

At nightfall the squadron was put under short sail, supposing that the
current by the morning would take us to the leeward near Otooh >, a
distance of ten miles. It lies west-northwest of Wytoohee, distant
twelve and one-third miles, and is distinctly seen from it, like a round
knoll. This appearance is owing to the trees upon it, for the land is as
low as coral islands usually are. We found by the morning, that the
current had been about one mile per hour to the west, and therefore
much stronger than I anticipated ; we were in consequence some dis-
tance to leeward of the island. With the light wind, I knew the ship
could riot reach it before the afternoon. I immediately sent the
naturalists on board the tender Flying-Fish, and gave Lieutenant
Pinckney orders to endeavour to land them, and to pass around the
island and survey it; neither of which he succeeded in doing. The
survey was finally completed by the boats of the Vincennes and
Peacock. The naturalists tried to effect a landing, but were opposed

324 PAUMOTU GROUP.

by some dozen natives, who were resolute in preventing them from
going beyond the water's edge ; in other respects, they were disposed
to be quite friendly.

The chief was an old man, and was induced to venture off towards
the boat. One of the gentleman swam to those on shore; his recep-
tion was similar to that met with at the other islands: rubbing noses,
kissing, and shaking of hands. Whenever he attempted to lay his
hands on them, they started back, but were continually pawing and
whining over him, making a kind of purring noise, not unlike that by
which we propitiate or soothe the feelings or doubtful temper of some
beast. They presented them with mats made of the pandanus-leaf, and
also pieces of worn-out tapa, in return for many articles received, but
would not suffer our people to put their feet upon dry ground, and
when it was attempted, kept shoving them gently into the water.

The naturalists in the afternoon endeavoured to effect a landing at
another place, out of sight of the natives, and succeeded. Mr. Brack-
enridge, on landing the second time, ran to the thicket, in order to
lose no time in making collections, and was employed in gathering
specimens, when two stout natives came running up, and made him
understand, by very intelligible signs, that he must return to the boat;
he pretended not to understand them, and endeavoured to proceed,
but they went before him, and crossed their clubs, determined that he
should go no farther. This caused him to laugh, in which the two
natives joined. Finding there was no alternative, he took an oblique
direction towards the boat, hoping by this means to enlarge his collec-
tion, which he succeeded in doing, while the natives, as he describes
it, shouldered him out of the bush, and then towards the boat. The
rest of the party having gone up to (he huts, were at once seized and
shoved down towards the boat, and into the surf, where they presented
rather a ludicrous appearance, with the danger of drowning on the one
side, and the natives on the other, who had them completely in their
power, as they had neither arms nor any other means of defence.
No harm, however, was done them, but the alarm incident to being
threatened with spears. The only mishap met with was the loss, by
one of the gentlemen, of a pair of spectacles, and a bruise or two from
the coral, in their hurried retreat. As the surf was heavy, life-preservers
were sent to those who could not swim; and after much detention,
they reached the boat in safety. Had such a circumstance occurred
at Clermont de Tonnerre, I am satisfied that most serious consequences
would have resulted to us.

The superficial extent of the island of Otooho is about a square
mile; it has no lagoon, is well covered with trees, and has fresh water.

PAUMOTU GROUP. 335

There were nineteen men counted, which would make the population
about fifty souls. No women or children were seen.

At all the inhabited islands we found the greatest numbers of the
common house-fly : while at Honden Island (uninhabited) none were
perceived. No one can estimate the annoyance they cause, until it
has been experienced.

The huts of the natives of Otooho are different from those of the
neighbouring island, but quite as rude.

About three quarters of an hour after sunset, the naturalists were
again on board, and we bore away on our course to Raraka. Having
been informed that several islands were supposed to be in this neigh-
bourhood, that were known to the natives, but not laid down on the
charts, I determined to lie-to during the night. At daylight we again
bore away, spreading the squadron in open order of sailing.

On the 29th, at daylight, land was reported, and we soon ascer-
tained that it was not laid down on the charts. It is low, nearly of a
circular form, and well covered with trees and shrubs, and has a
lagoon of some extent. Its centre is in latitude 15° 42' 25" S., longi-
tude 144° 38' 45" W. I named it King's Island, after the man at the
masthead who first discovered it. After completing the survey of it,
we landed on its lee side, where the water was quite smooth, and
spent the afternoon in examining it. There were no natives on it, but
every indication that it had been inhabited recently by a party of
pearl-fishers. The lagoon appeared to be well supplied with the pearl
oyster. We found on the island two small springs of fresh water,
near its lagoon, and a good supply of cocoa-nuts. Many specimens
of plants were obtained, and several interesting objects of natural
history were added to our collections ; for an account of these, the
reader is referred to the reports of the naturalists.

This island had more soil on it than any yet met with, and seemed
to be productive. Large quantites of cocoa-nuts were lying about in
heaps, no doubt gathered by those who had visited it before us.

The magnetic observations were also made here. The width of
the island to the lagoon was found to be twelve hundred feet. A very
narrow reef surrounded it, and the whole island was but six feet above
the sea reef. No coral blocks were seen. It lies twenty miles to the
northeast of Raraka. There is no opening to the lagoon, and the
island is thickly wooded all round. An old canoe was found, very
much decayed and broken, and the remains of a hut on the beach.

In the morning we bore away for Raraka, and shortly afterwards
made it. As we approached it, another island was discovered, to the
northward and westward, which was not laid down on anv charts.

326 PAUMOTU GROUP.

On Raraka we soon discovered a party of natives, near the entrance
to the lagoon, waving a Tahiiian flag, three horizontal stripes, red,
white, and red. They were partly dressed, some in shirts, without
hats, others with vests, and others again with trousers of all colours.
I joined the schooner, stood in for the mouth of the lagoon, and landed.
Nothing could he more striking than the difference that prevailed
between these natives and those of the Disappointment Islands, which
we had just left. The half-civilization of the natives of Raraka was
very marked, and it appeared as though we had issued out of darkness
into light. They showed a modest disposition, and gave us a hearty
welcome. We were not long at a loss as to what to ascribe it : the
missionary had been at work here, and his exertions had been based
upon a firm foundation ; the savage had been changed to a reasonable
creature. Among the inhabitants was a native missionary, who had
been instrumental in this work. If the missionaries had effected
nothing else, they would deserve the thanks of all those who roam
over this wide expanse of ocean, and incur its many unknown and
hidden dangers. Here all shipwrecked mariners would be sure of
kind treatment, and a share of the few comforts these people possess.
No savage mistrust and fear were seen here. The women and
children came about us, receiving our trifles. They showed much
joy and curiosity at the sight of us, and were eager to supply our
wants. The chief was an old man, much tattooed about the breast
and arms, which gave him the appearance of a blue and brown
checker-board ; others had large rosettes on their legs, and horizontal
bands on the back, passing a considerable distance on each side of the
spine, elaborately executed in various patterns.

This is believed to be the tattooing
peculiar to the inhabitants of Anaa or
Chain Island. They frequent the dif-
ferent islands of the group, and are
generally employed by those engaged
in the shell-fishery.
TATTOOING. I Was particularly struck with the

modest and quiet behaviour of the native missionary, who was a
Tahitian. He kept himself aloof, whilst all the others were crowding
round to partake in the presents we were distributing, and seemed
much gratified and astonished when 1 selected him out as the recipient
of a present similar to the one I had given the chief.

All the males' heads were shaven, sorneu hat after the fashion of a
Dominican friar. This practice is said to have been adopted by the
missionaries at Tahiti, for the sake of cleanliness, and also to dis-

PAUMOTU GROUP.

327

tinguish the Christian from the heathen party. The women have
theirs cut close, and some are clothed in a pareu, consisting of three
or four yards of cotton, others in a loose gown. They were any thing
but good-looking ; but the men were tall and well made. The variety
of apparel was droll enough. As for the children, I have seldom seen
finer ; all were well formed, and as cheerful as they could be. They
were for the most part naked. About two hundred inhabitants were
counted on the island, most of whom belonged to Tahiti and Anaa, or
Chain Island, and were here on a shelling voyage. They had arrived
in two double canoes, such as are used in navigating from island to
island; they were now drawn up on the beach. These vessels were
apparently well taken care of, and in this situation we had a good
opportunity of examining them. The annexed is a faithful represen-
tation of a double canoe.

DOUBLE CANOE OF THE PAUMOTU GROUP.

They are thirty-five feet long and four and a half feet wide, con-
nected together by a strong framework, on which is placed a deck,
and a temporary hut is erected on their voyages. Every part is neatly
put together, and well secured with twine and sennit made of cocoa-
nut fibres ; no iron or metal of any kind is used in their construction ;
they have two masts, supported by vines in place of ropes, and are
enabled to spread large mat sails; they steer with a large oar. After
examining them, one can easily account for the long voyages which
the natives have been sometimes able to accomplish. They find no
difficulty in navigating them, and are now learning the use of the
compass, but I am informed they still prefer sailing by the stars and
sun, and seldom make any material error. Navigating as they do
from island to island, they have not unfrequently been overtaken by
storms, and some have been lost, while others have taken refuge or

328 PAUMOTU GROUP.

been wrecked upon other islands, and have been absent from their
own several years. These gales they say come from the northwest
They live here in small huts, which are rather an improvement upon
those of the islanders we had already seen ; these dwellings are formed
of poles, with a mat covering, and are carried with them on their
voyages.

Though scarcely able to protect them from the weather, yet these
huts are clean, and lined with mats. Their persons seemed cleanly
also, and they showed a great disposition to oblige us. Some atten-
tion was paid to cultivation, as was evinced in the plantation and care
of their cocoa-nut groves, as if wishing to provide for their future
wants. The trees of the young plantations were all carefully staked
around. Their food consists of dried fish, somewhat similar to a
whiting, of which they had a good and plentiful supply, and also of the
masi, a preparation of the bread-fruit, which they were keeping for
their return voyage.

This was the first island on which we observed the dawning of
Christianity and civilization. The native missionaries, although they
are yet ignorant of most of the duties enjoined upon a Christian, still
do much good in preparing the way. Many learn to read, and some
even to write, under their tuition ; yet they have many impediments
thrown in the way of their efforts by the introduction of spirits by the
whites. The old chief, and others, are much addicted to the use of it,
and the vessels resorting here for the pearl-fishery generally employ
native divers, and pay them for the most part in rum or whiskey. We
found here an Englishman who had belonged to a schooner engaged
in the pearl-fishery. He told me he had been left there sick by his
captain, and had been kindly treated during his stay of three months
on the island. I was in hopes of obtaining some information from
him, but he knew little or nothing of the language, and was, moreover,
a stupid fellow. I gave him a passage to Tahiti, whither he was
desirous of going, in the tender.

Having some business on board, I invited the chief to go off with
me : he first inquired if all the boats and men were to stay ; on my
telling him they were not, he said he wrould go on board if I would
also take his wife, and her brother ; to which I consented.

The chief had lost one hand, which he informed me had been
bitten off by a shark whilst employed in diving for shells. We became
great friends, and he thought it necessary to be at my side the whole
time. He was an odd old man, and proved before we left him that he
had become acquainted with some of the vices of civilization.

We all embarked, soon reached the tender, and bore away for the

PAUMOTU GROUP. 339

ship, some three or four miles distant. The old one-handed chief
now came up to me in a very mysterious manner, and untying a knot
in the tail of his shirt (which was the only garment he wore besides
his maro,) with no small difficulty, with one hand and his teeth, drew
from it a small dirty piece of linen, tied up as a bag ; this he produced
with great form, and evidently expected to astonish me. The contents
proved to be a few small discoloured pearls ; these he begged me to
accept, but I declined to receive them. We now reached the ship,
and I ordered every thing to be shown them. Their surprise was
very great. While on board, Messrs. Drayton and Agate succeeded
in getting a most accurate portrait of him.

rOKTKAIT OF THU OXE-IIANDEI) CHIEF.

The natives were much amused with the ship, and surprised at the
number of men on board. Many small presents were given them.
When they were about taking their departure, the old chief com-
plained of being quite sick, and his whole air and manner showed that
he was much dissatisfied. The reason could not be imagined. The
vessel had so little motion, it was thought it could not originate from
sea-sickness. I therefore told the interpreter to inquire of him what
was the matter. No answer was given for some time, but they con-
sulted much among themselves in a low tone. The question was
repeated, when the old chief's wife answered, " that I had not returned
the present that had been offered me, and that the chief was not
pleased ; for, according to their customs, the offering a present to me
entitled him to receive one in return." As very many gifts had been
made him already, this amused me not a little. On asking 'what it
was they wanted, they at once signified whiskey, which they said was

VOL. i. 2C2 42

330 PAUMOTU GROUP.

always given them when they went on board ship ; and the chiel
wanted some, for he was very sick. I accordingly ordered a bottle
of water with a gill of whiskey in it to be given them, and the moment
they smelt it their manner was changed ; they became all animation,
and left the ship in great good humour. Mr. Waldron presented them
with two sheep, of which they appeared very proud. The brother
was quite an intelligent native; he drew for me with a piece of chalk,
on the deck, with considerable accuracy, all the islands he was
acquainted with, giving their relative situations, and the native names ;
—that of the island we had seen the day before, as Tai-a-ra, and the
one to which I had given the name of Vincennes Island, as Kawahe.
He informed me of three small islands to the southward of Sacken,
which were afterwards found by the Porpoise, during the cruise to this
group on which I sent her in 1840; his knowledge of the western part
of this group was quite surprising.

On the next day we landed early, and passed the whole of it on
shore, making observations. We found this was taboo-day, or their
Sabbath, although it was Saturday with us; and all the natives
seemed to be enjoying its quiet and repose. Few of them were to
be seen, and they exhibited but little curiosity. No persuasion could
induce them to employ themselves in getting fish and shells for us on
this day. We obtained a full set of observations to determine the
position, and also those for magnetic results. I place the entrance to
the lagoon of Raraka in longitude 144° 57' 40" W., latitude 16° 06'
25" S. The result of our day's observations gave the tides, at full and
change of the moon, two o'clock, and three feet in height ; the shore,
however, showed that there were at times very high tides. The natives
said, when it was a round moon they had very high water.

The entrance to the lagoon is on the north side of the island, about
one-third of its length from the western end. It is a narrow passage,
but will admit a small vessel. The current runs very strong out of
the lagoon, so much so, that a boat cannot be pulled against it. The
water in the entrance is from five to eight fathoms deep, but there is
no advantage in entering, as the reef is quite as steep within. A small
vessel may anchor on the outside, in ten fathoms, close to the shore.
This island is nearly of the shape of an equilateral triangle, and its
southern and eastern sides are formed by a submerged reef. It is
fifteen miles on each side.

The chief, on our second visit, was at first not altogether free from
alarm at the sight of so many persons on shore ; but each one bringing
himself, his wife, or people, some small present, soon reconciled him to
their presence. Among the sailors he contrived to get some grog,

PAUMOTU GROUP. 331

which intoxicated him, and he became of a most joyous temperament
and full of affection.

The way of catching fish practised here is quite amusing, and to it
we owe the many specimens in that department of natural history
which we obtained. The natives enjoy the sport amazingly, and both
old and young are all in some way participators in it. Near the mouth
of the lagoon are laid some coral stones, forming a rude and shallow
pen, with a channel leading to it ; several natives proceed about one-
third of a mile up the beach of the lagoon, where they enter the water,
ranging themselves in a row, the tallest in the deepest water. They
then move along down towards the pen, quite noiselessly at first, driving
the fish before them. As they approach, they begin to splash and make
a noise; the clamour gradually increases, until it becomes one continued
shout. They then contract themselves towards the pen, and the fish
are seen jumping and dashing in all directions, as if very much
alarmed, until they are forced to enter the pen, which is then closed
with a few stones; afterwards the natives begin to spear them with great
dexterity, and many were obtained. It was gratifying to witness the
pleasure that both old and young appeared to take in this employment,
and quite surprising that the fish do not escape over the low wall that
surrounds them, only two or three inches above the water ; but they
appear bewildered. The natives regretted that their success was so
small, and imputed it to the water being too high. Some fresh water
may be obtained here. The spring or pond is on the west side of the
entrance. What the natives had in their cocoa-nut shells was sweet.
It is, however, in no great abundance.

Many specimens were here added to our collections. This was one
of the islands in which I attempted to sound the lagoon. We began at
the entrance, but found, within a very short distance, that the depth
increased to thirty fathoms, the water being as blue as that of the
ocean. So great a depth made it an undertaking far beyond what my
time allowed. The sounding, in every case of any depth, was coral
sand.

Towards sunset we all embarked, and my leave-taking with the old
chief was amusing, He with all his household and retinue, began to
cry and whine over me, so that I was glad to escape from the display
of so much friendship and parental affection.

After reaching my ship, the Porpoise again joined us. She had
been despatched early in the morning towards the eastern end of the
island, to ascertain its extent, and fix its point in that direction ; not
being able to accomplish this, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold re-
turned for further orders. This night we lay-to under the lee of

332 P A U M O T U GROUP.

Raraka ; but as it proved dark and squally, we stood to the northward,
and about one o'clock we were surprised by seeing a signal from the
Peacock, of danger close aboard, under the lee. I immediately tacked,
and we soon cleared it. It proved to be the reef of Kawahe, over
which the surf was breaking violently. The Peacock was so close to
it, that Captain Hudson felt himself obliged to stand on his course,
rather than run the risk of missing stays, and continued to run along
it for several miles, until, by its trending to the westward, he was
enabled to clear the danger.

On the 1st of September, at daylight, we found ourselves between
the two islands, and the Peacock was out of sight ; but two hours
afterwards, she was again seen. I made signal to the Porpoise, and
despatched her to examine the southeast side of Raraka, and thence to
follow on to the westward as far as Krusenstern's Island, passing
along the south side of Nairsa or Dean's Island. I then despatched
the Peacock to the north end, and the tender to the south end of
Kawahe, to secure meridian observations, whilst the Vincennes was
employed in surveying its eastern shores. The wind was well adapted
to our object, and at sunset we met off the north end, having completed
our work. The current was tried, but we found none. The wind was
fresh from the eastward, with occasional squalls. On the morning of
the 2d, I determined to land the naturalists on the newly-found island,
and for this purpose made signal to the tender to come within hail.
My ship was lying with her main-topsail to the mast, and forging
ahead about a knot an hour. The tender came up on our lee quarter,
and luffed in an awkward manner, directly across our bow. Her
mast just escaped coming in contact with our jib-boom. I at once
ordered all the sails of the Vincennes to be thrown aback, which
stopping her way, prevented the dreadful accident of running the
tender down. It was a most miraculous escape.

We landed on Vincennes Island, and obtained the usual observations.
Its south point is in latitute 15° 59' 48" S., longitude 145° 09' 30" W.
It was found to be sixteen miles long by ten wide; its greatest diameter
lying north and south. It is a narrow annular ridge, consisting of
many blocks and slabs of coral, which give a clinky sound when
struck. The coral shelf seemed to dip in one place at an angle of 15°,
forming a ridge, which was so low that the tide was beginning to flow
over it before high water. There is an opening into the lagoon on the
southwest side; on its southeastern part is a high clump of trees,
looking like a knoll at a distance. The rest of the island is covered
with a growth of bushes, ten or twelve feet high. The blocks and
slabs above spoken of were very much water-worn, and were strewn

PAUMOTU GROUP. 333

about on the coral shelf. This, where I measured it, was five hundred
feet wide, but it is not of equal width in all parts. Among the coral
blocks was some sand, and in many of them were found large speci-
mens of the chama and other shells. I was informed at Raraka, that
there were a few inhabitants on Vincennes Island, but none were seen
by us. They were said to live on the southern end of it.

After finishing our observations, we returned on board, and made
sail for Aratica, or Carlshoff Island. We arrived off it in time to
secure its connexion with Vincennes Island : the distance was found,
by patent log, and astronomical observations, to be twenty miles to
the westward. We then stood on and off* its eastern point for the
night. The next morning at daylight we began its survey. The
tender was despatched round its northern shore, whilst the Peacock
and Vincennes took its southern side, running close along the reef,
which continued submerged until near its southwestern end, which is
twelve feet high and thickly wooded. On rounding the point, we saw
a white flag waved by several natives on the beach. I immediately
despatched a boat, with an officer, who brought off two of the prin-
cipal natives, one of whom spoke a little English, and proved quite
intelligent. One of these natives was tattooed only on one side, from
the pubis to the sternum, bounded by broad blue bands, which divided
and terminated under each ear.

NATIVE OF PAUMOTU GROUP.

He reported that there were about twenty natives on the islancf,
and that they had frequent intercourse with vessels that had visited
them. They informed me that water was to be had on the island.
Finding ourselves short of this necessary article, I despatched several
boats to procure it. Aratica is eight miles in length by five in
breadth.

334

PAUMOTU GROUP.

All the naturalists were sent on shore, with as many of the officers
as could be spared from duty. We landed near what the natives
called their village. This consisted of one or two huts, built in a grove
of large trees, consisting principally of Pisonias, fifty or sixty feet in
height. Some of these had been felled (with a small hatchet, of which
they possessed only one,) to build canoes. It is principally used for
out-riggers, being light and durable, and well adapted for that purpose.
We found two canoes partly dug out. The woods were quite thick
and forest-like. The inhabitants of the village consisted of four men,
two women, a dog, and a cat ; the remainder of the inhabitants live on
the northeast side. The lagoon abounds with fish, and has several
small coral knolls in it, though none with much vegetation on them.
This is the most elevated of the low coral islands we had yet met
with.

It has a deep entrance into its lagoon, on the west side.

The same formation presents itself here, of three distinct shelves:
the one submerged, narrow, and shelving rapidly, the other broad,
level, and covered at high water, but quite bare at low, and having
the same longitudinal cracks in it. On the upper one is the usual
accumulation of coral debris and sand, on which the vegetation
grows.

On the lagoon side the beach slopes gradually, and there is seldom
found any decided break, from which to judge of the thickness of the
coral shelf. On the upper shelf, some large compact coral blocks are
found. One of these, which I measured, was ten by twenty feet. It
rested upon two small fragments, the remainder having been gradually
worn away by the washing of the sea ; it seemed, in fact, to be a part
of that forming the second or upper shelf of coral. The following
wood-cut comprises several that were seen on the coral islands, and
will give an idea of their shapes. The highest point of the island was
twelve feet above low-water mark.

CORAL BLOCKS.

The fresh water is procured from a large pool, about fifty feet in

PAUMOTU GROUP. 335

diameter, and of considerable depth ; it is about half a mile from the
village, to the north, and situated within the line of woods. Watering
is very troublesome and fatiguing when the boats are outside, and it is
necessary to transport it a long distance ; but having leathern watering-
bags, it was less difficult for us. By entering the lagoon through the
opening, the boats could approach very near the pool. There would
be some difficulty in passing into it when the tide is setting out. It
was reported that there was enough water to supply the squadron.
The water was thought by some to be a little brackish, but it was
found quite potable.

Many botanical specimens were obtained here, similar to those
collected on the other islands ; also several birds, a harmless scorpion,
and lizards, the same as found on the other islands.

The reefs were covered with Holuthuria and some Biche-de-mar,
but none of the valuable kinds; we also obtained a large number of
shells. The fish here are said to be poisonous ; but the natives, we
understood, eat some of the kinds, so that the remark does not apply
to the whole. The position of the west point of the island was deter-
mined to be in longitude 145° 39' 46" W., and latitude 15° 26' S.

Having obtained all the water we could in the afternoon, amounting
to three hundred and ninety gallons, I directed the course of the
squadron to the northward and eastward, towards King George's
Group, having fresh breezes from the east-northeast. The next day
at noon, the most southern island was in sight, and finding the ships
could not make it without much loss of time, I despatched the tender
to the group, with orders to circumnavigate and examine the islands,
and then to follow us to Tahiti ; whilst the Vincennes and Peacock
bore away to the westward, for the doubtful island of Waterlandt.
At 5 p. M. it was discovered from the masthead, and at six from the
fore-yard, bearing northwest-by-north.

We stood on and ofFall night, and at daylight again made the land;
we reached its north point at four o'clock p. M., when the Peacock was
ordered to take the east, whilst the Vincennes took the west side ; we
continued the survey until dark, when we took the necessary angles
to resume the work in the morning. Many natives were seen, and
smoke was rising in several places. On the 6th of September, we
continued our surveying operations, and shortly afterwards joined the
Peacock, Captain Hudson having completed his side of the island.
The Peacock now made the signal of land to the westward. Wishing
to land and make an examination of this island, as well as to have
communication with the natives, the boats were lowered, and the
naturalists from both vessels, and many officers, landed, and rambled

336 P A U M O T U GROUP.

over the western part of the island for several hours. The few natives
were very friendly, and informed us that the native name of the island
was Manhii. This is, in all probability, the Waterlandt of Schouten
and Le Maire, and also Wilson's Island of the Duff. There is a large
and deep entrance in the southeast end into the lagoon of Manhii
Island, in which, the natives informed me, vessels had often anchored,
whilst engaged in the pearl-fishery. Many cocoa-nut trees were seen
on this island, and fresh water is to be procured from a pool on the
southwest side. The island at this end is upwards of half a mile wide
to the lagoon ; the coral reef is here quite broad. Soundings are not to
be had with one hundred fathoms of line, fifty feet from the edge of it.

There were some small compact coral rocks here and there, but no
regular upper or second shelf; the lower coral shelf was three hundred
feet in width, and had many long longitudinal cracks, from six to eight
inches wide, resembling those seen in ice-fields. In some places these
were quite deep, and in the chasms numerous shells of the chama
species presented to our view their beautiful colours. Some of the
gentlemen reported that they found a stone sarcophagus, or something
much resembling one. We made a set of magnetic observations on
this island, and many shells, plants, &c., were procured.

To our surprise, one of the men of the Peacock, by the name of
Penny, here deserted from the boats. He had been formerly much
among the islands, engaged in pearl-fishing, and spoke the language
well. Strict search was made for him, until the officer in charge of
the boats became satisfied that he had no intention of returning. On
hearing of it, I was convinced that he had chosen this opportunity to
leave us, particularly as he must have been aware that there is very
frequent communication with Tahiti. The chief of this island informed
us that he was a relative of the one-handed chief of Raraka.

The east end of the island lies in latitude 14° 26' 22" S., longitude
146° 04' 20" W.

Several of us had our feet severely blistered, from going barefoot on
the reefs, and were made very uncomfortable from this cause. After
returning on board, we bore away to the other island, to which the
natives gave the name of Ahii. I have also added that of Peacock
Island, to mark that its correct position was first established by the
Expedition. It lies west three-fourths north per compass from Manhii,
and was found by the patent log to be eight and six-tenths miles from
reef to reef. On coming up with it, the Vincennes and Peacock took
opposite sides, and surveyed it ; and the next morning parties landed.
I was hardly able to move, on account of my feet, but the desire of
getting observations of the eclipse, urged me to make the attempt; J

PAUMOTU GROUP. 337

only succeeded in getting the last limb and good observations for time.
After four o'clock, we returned on board. This island is not inhabited,
and has only a small boat-entrance into its lagoon, on the west side.
The coral belt is similar to that last described ; it was found to be
upwards of half a mile in width, and was covered with the same kind
of vegetation as the last, excepting cocoa-nut trees, of which none were
found on the island. The lagoon is quite shallow. A favourite fish
with the natives is found in it, and at certain seasons they visit the
island for the purpose of catching them. The coral shelf varied from
two to five hundred feet in breadth.

Being desirous of making the examination of as many of the coral
islands as possible, I now despatched the Peacock to the Arutua or
Rurick Islands, with directions to examine them, and then to proceed
along the south side of Dean's Island, whilst, in the Vincennes, I steered
for the north side of the latter, to pass along it. We then parted
company, and Dean's Island was made by us the next morning. After
establishing our position, we ran along the northern shore, and reached
its western point at 4 p. M. Off this point we obtained sights for our
chronometers, which put it in longitude 147° 58' 34" W., latitude 15°
05' 15" S. During the day we passed an entrance into its lagoon, and
some natives came off from a small village, in two canoes, to visit us.
They acknowledged themselves subjects of Queen Pomare of Tahiti,
and were very desirous we should land. They brought off a few shells,
and told us they had many fowls, pigs, taro, &c. There are several
islets in the lagoon covered with trees. Vast numbers of large blocks
were seen lying on its reef. The shore-reef is not more than two
hundred feet wide, and is composed of only one shelf. The current was
tried, but none was found. We had the wind very fresh from east-by-
north all day. When off the western point we discovered Krusen-
stern's Island to the west, and hauled up to pass between it and Nairsa.
The passage was found to be twelve and two-thirds miles wide, and
free from all danger. In the evening I stood for Metia Island, to the
southward. Nairsa or Dean's Island was found to be sixty-six miles
in length.

On the morning of the 9th of September we were in sight of Metia
or Aurora Island, the north end of which is in latitude 15° 49' 35" S.,
longitude 148° 13' 15" W. It was totally different in appearance
from those we had met with, though evidently of the same formation.
It was a coral island uplifted, exposing its formation distinctly, and as
such was very interesting. On approaching its eastern end, I sounded
at about one hundred and fifty feet from its perpendicular cliff, and
found no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. The

VOL. i. 43

338 PAUMOTU GROUP.

cliff appeared worn into caverns. We landed close in its neighbour-
hood, and on measuring its height, it proved to be two hundred and
fifty feet. The coral shelf was found to be five hundred feet in width,
extending on the north side of the island, and gradually diminishing in
width until it loses itself at the western end. This island has all the
features that one would naturally be led to expect from a low island
uplifted. The north, east, and west sides present a perpendicular cliff
or wall, but this character does not prevail on the south side, although
it has some high knolls. The north ridge is nearly level, and there is
a break through it (by which we ascended to its top) very much like
the opening of a lagoon. The north side is concave, and there is
found within the indentations between its two points, an extensive
inclined plane, composed of large masses of limestone and vegetable
mould, on which the village is situated, in a luxuriant grove of bread-
fruit, cocoa-nut, pandanus, and other trees, similar to those already
spoken of, as seen on the other islands. There were several copious
springs, but the natives informed me that there were no running streams
on the island.

The natives all seemed delighted to see us, crowding around my
boat, and assisting, to haul it up ; men, women, and children flocked
around us ; all the population were gathered, to the number of about three
hundred and fifty. We were at once invited to the chief's and native
missionary's house, situated in the centre of the village. The house
was constructed of the bread-fruit wood, for a frame, and reeds of the
wild sugar-cane for the uprights, with interstices for the passage of
the air, and lining of mats to exclude it when required. It was well
thatched, and the whole had a cool and comfortable appearance.
Cocoa-nuts were soon brought us, and all our questions were answered
with an alacrity and pleasure that showed their strong desire to oblige
and assist us.

The natives had gathered in crowds around the door to look at us.

PAUMOTU GROUP.

339

They were a fine-looking race, though forming rather a motley group.
The manner of carrying their children particularly attracted our
notice; it had a pleasing effect. We found it afterwards practised
throughout Polynesia. Many questions were put to me, and now and
then I could hear a voice saying, " Me ship, captain ; me go Tahiti."
All were more or less clothed in the cast-off" garments of whites, and not
very particular whether they possessed one, two, or parts of garments,
as long as it appeared different from their own tapa, and of foreign
fashion. This appeared more ridiculous, for on our first landing few
were to be seen except in their native dresses, but shortly afterwards
one might have believed the contents of all the old clothes shops of one

MODE OF CARRYING CHILDREN.

of our cities had been distributed among them : storm pea-jackets,
light summer pantaloons, vests, capes of overcoats, bell-crowned hats,
checked and red flannel shirts, most of which were torn or won
threadbare in many places ; whilst the women had bedecked them-
selves with cocoa-nut oil and turmeric, giving them a bright orange
cast. Their heads were adorned with flowers, and they evidently
considered themselves in their holiday attire. They had an abundance
of pigs and poultry. The rich soil on the upper and interior part of
the island produced taro (Arum esculentum), sweet-potatoes (Convol-
vulus batatas), melons, yams, and some tobacco, while the bread-fruit
and cocoa-nuts were hanging in clusters over their dwellings. They
had also an abundance of crabs and fish ; on our landing we found

340 PAUMOTU GROUP.

them devouring the latter, with great gusto, raw, but the former they
roasted. Here we again saw printed copies of several portions of the
Scriptures, and found that many of them could read and write well.
No spears, clubs, or warlike instruments were to be seen, and when I
asked for them as matters of curiosity, they said they had no arms
except two muskets, which were pointed out to me, hanging up under
the eaves of the house. The native missionary, a man about fifty
years of age, told me that in times past they had " all war," but now
all was peace. I was desirous of knowing to what he imputed the
change, and he very readily answered, " Mittionari, mai-tai, mai-tai,"
(missionary, good, good). They acknowledge the authority of Pomare
of Tahiti. Dr. Pickering, who was in company with me, came to
propose that we should ascend the bluff, which the chief, being made
acquainted with, readily gave his consent to, and sent for two men to
accompany us. We ascended through the narrow break, twenty to
thirty feet wide : the natives had improved the path up by placing the
clinky slabs of compact coral, as a rude pavement, and for steps, in
order to make the communication more easy to their planting grounds.
On reaching the top, we found ourselves in a wood, and wishing to
get a view of the interior, we made for the east end, passing occa-
sionally over beds of clinky coral, thrown and scattered in all
directions. After a walk of more than a mile, we came to an open
space, from which we had a clear view of the interior of the island,
which was found to be densely covered with trees. The general
shape, as far as it could be seen, was pan-like, or in the form of a dry
lagoon.

This island was particularly interesting, from its combining both
high and low vegetation ; and a very considerable collection of plants
was obtained. Several pigeons were seen, two of which we obtained;
they were of a large species of Columba oceanica, that inhabits these
groups. We crossed many large fissures, running in a line with the
cliff, some of them two or three feet wide, in which trees of some size
were growing.

As far as our observations went, the upper portion of this island is
composed of limestone or compact coral rock ; the cliff, on its eastern
side, where we first landed, appears stratified, horizontally, in beds of
ten to twelve feet in thickness, of a sort of conglomerate, composed of
shells, coral, and pieces of compact rock, cemented together by a cal-
careous deposit. The under part of this bed had been much worn by
the sea ; the rich soil was composed of vegetable matter and decom-
posed limestone. The slabs that were lying loose upon the surface had
a clinky or metallic sound when struck. The island has unequivocal

PAUMOTU GROUP. 34]

marks of having been uplifted at different periods; the cliff, at two
different heights, appears to have suffered abrasion by the sea. Stalag-
mites were observed under the cliffs, and some stalactitic columns,
fourteen feet high by six in diameter. On coming towards the village,
we saw many natives returning with loads of taro, &c., which they had
been sent to gather. On our return, we were taken again to the chiefs
house, and entertained with cocoa-nuts, baked taro, and bread-fruit,
which had been cooked during our absence. At the boat we found
more articles for purchase than we had the means to pay for, or the
boat could carry ; and every one seemed desirous of securing the sale
of his fruits and vegetables. Notwithstanding the over-supply, the
prices were I thought rather enhanced than lowered, and there was an
evident feeling among the crowd that we had not been so liberal in
buying as we ought to have been. I was glad to get off, in order to be
freed from the flies, which are in incredible numbers in all the inhabited
islands, and a great nuisance. I left the island under the impression
this little community was a happy and contented one. At about five
o'clock, we joined the ship, some distance to the southward of the
island ; all the surveying boats having returned, we bore away for
Tahiti, at which island we arrived on the 10th. At 5 p. M., Lieutenant-
Commandant Ringgold boarded us, and brought off Jim, the pilot ; he
reported all well on board the Porpoise. At sunset, we anchored in
Matavai Bay. I hastened to ascertain the correctness of our chrono-
meters, and the next day landed the instruments on Point Venus, and
took observations. They gave for its longitude 149° 31' 13-5" W.
Krusenstern makes it 149° 29' 17" W.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, in the Porpoise, after parting
company on the 1st of September, proceeded to the south side of
Raraka, in fulfilment of his instructions. He found the whole southern
part of it a bare reef, with the surf breaking violently over it. When
off the south point, he made the isle of Katiu or Sacken to the south,
and that of Makirna to the east, and connected them ; after which he
proceeded to the westward, passing Aratica (Carlshoff), and thence to
Nairsa or Dean's Island, which he made on the 5th; fixed its western
end, passed along its south to its western side, and thence to Krusen-
stern's Island, to the westward, which he circumnavigated ; from thence
went direct to Tahiti, anchored in Papieti Harbour on the 9th, and the
next day proceeded to Matavai Bay, the place of rendezvous.

On the 12th, the Peacock arrived, having passed to the Rurick
Islands or Arutua, the north end of which lies in latitude 15° 15' 00"
S., longitude 146° 51' 00" W. A landing was attempted at several
places in the boats. One of them succeeded near a cocoa-nut grove,

342 PAUMOTU GROUP.

but the two that went to land at the village, found the surf too high to
attempt it.

The north shore of Arutua Island was surveyed, when they bore
away, and connected it with Nairsa or Dean's Island, along which
they ran the whole length of its south side by daylight. The last
named island is for the most part a washed reef, with no opening.
The compact coral blocks showed themselves here more conspicu-
ously and in greater numbers than before seen.

The following sketch, by Mr. Agate, will illustrate their appearance.

&

-- ** r1 • ''; • _ ,•*.»• .1,.^.;.-

After making the west end of Nairsa, Captain Hudson sighted
Krusenstern's Island, and then stood for Metia Island, to the south-
ward, on which the officers landed the next day on its western side.
Their examination confirmed the facts already given, relative to its
appearance.

Mr. Dana found some recent shells embedded in the limestone, but
they had lost their texture.

On this island, the magnetic observations were made, with the
Peacock's instruments. Captain Hudson also sounded with the deep-
sea thermometer, when within a mile of the island, in six hundred
fathoms ; the temperature at the surface of the water was 80^°, that
below, 44^°. The next day they made Tetuaroa, to the northward of
Tahiti, formerly celebrated as the resort of the Tahitians, for the
purpose of recovering from the bodily diseases brought on by their
debaucheries, &c. It is a low island, about six miles long, with a few
trees upon it, and a reef off its southern end, extending half a mile. It
is plainly to be seen from the high ridges of Tahiti.

On the 14th, the Flying-Fish arrived. She had visited and sur-
veyed King George's Group, which appeared well inhabited, and have
entrances to their lagoons on the west side. The native name of the
two islands, is Tiokea and Oura. The southwest end of Tiokea is in
latitude 14° 31' 12" S., longitude 145° 09' 30" W. ; Oura bears
S. 68° W., distant four and a half miles. Then the tender passed to
Manhii and Ahii, round the north side of Nairsa, or Dean's Island, to
Tahiti.

PAUMOTU GROUP. 343

Little appears to be known of the history of the Paumotu Islands, or
their inhabitants. At Tahiti I obtained some information from one who
had been much among the group, and believe that it is as authentic as
can be obtained, and may be relied on.

The Island of Anaa, or Chain Island, has been the principal seat of
power, the natives of which had frequently waged war on the others,
and succeeded in conquering all to the west of Hau or Bow Island,
with which they have frequently fought.

In the reign of the first Pomare, under Tomatiti, they even attempted
the conquest of Tahiti, and succeeded in overcoming the small peninsula
of Taiarabu. The story is, that they were about to continue their
attack on the larger island, when Tomatiti received a written letter
from Pomare, which caused hostilities to be suspended ; and after
further negotiation, finally led to Tomatiti's retiring from the island
with a large present of hogs, tapa, &c. Notwithstanding this, the
Chain Islanders remained nominally under the government of Tahiti,
and now acknowledge their dependence on it.

Anaa, or Chain Island, is one of the smallest, yet it is the most
thickly-peopled island of the whole group. It is said to contain five
thousand inhabitants, which large number is accounted for by the con-
quest of the other islands, and taking their inhabitants oft' as captives.
In the list of the islands and their population, it will be seen how few
remain on the other islands in comparison with this number. The
whole island is one cocoa-nut grove, and the principal food is fish and
cocoa-nuts. The former are caught in large quantities in the lagoon.
A great change has been brought about in the character of these
islanders within the last twenty-five years, during which the Tahitian
missionaries have been established at Anaa. Before this period, the
inhabitants were cannibals. Since the residence of the missionaries,
they have imbibed better tastes ; and the Christian influence has also
made them more peaceful. This change was first evinced by the treat-
ment of their captives, whom they allowed to return, if they chose, to
their own island ; but very many of them had married at Anaa, and
became permanent residents there, and few have taken advantage of
the permission to return. Notwithstanding the numerous population,
they are said to have an abundance of food. The people of Anaa still
consider the inhabitants of the eastern islands as cannibals ; but their
statement in this respect is little to be depended upon, for they have no
communication whatever with those whom they class under this deno-
mination, seldom extending themselves beyond Hau or Bow Island.

The Paumotuans are considered more warlike than the Tahitians,
for which reason Pomare I. kept a body-guard of them in preference

344 PAUMOTU GROUP.

to his own subjects. They have the reputation of being an honest and
trustworthy race.

These islanders are certainly not all from the same stock, and those
of the Disappointment Group, whom we were much struck with at the
time of our visit, in particular differ from the others. Since we have
seen all the different Polynesian groups, these appear, however extra-
ordinary it may be, to resemble the Feejee Islanders more than any
other.

By all accounts, they speak a different dialect from that of the
Tahitian nation. The difference is, however, not great, for I was told
that it required but a few weeks for any of the natives to acquire it.
Mr. Hale met several Paumotuans at Matavai Bay, and among them
he found one by the name of Tuoni, who confirmed the accounts I have
detailed above.

The population of this group I have nowhere seen given ; I have
therefore endeavoured to obtain the most satisfactory information in
relation to it : the whole amounts, in round numbers, to about ten
thousand, as follows :

Anaa 5,000

Manhii 100

Aratica ........ 60

Nairsa 70

Metia 350

Rurick 200

King George's 700

Vincennes ....... 30

Raraka 40

Wytoohee 70

Otooho 40

Bow Island 60

Manga Reva, or Gambler Island . . . 2,000

Serle Island 30

Clermont de Tonnerre .... 120

8,870
Rest of the group . . 1,130

10,000

On the map of this group it will be seen to where the line of canni-
balism extends, according to native accounts. It may be said to divide
them into two divisions, the Christians and Heathens, or perhaps, more
properly, the eastern and western ; the whole comprise sixty-five islands.
Although there is little doubt that the natives of this group have been
addicted to this horrible barbarity, yet it is believed that it is not now
practised.

PAUMOTU GROUP.

345

The advancement of civilization by their intercourse with the whites,
together with the missionary influence, will put an end to this practice,
and promote peace among all the islanders of the group ; not only
ameliorating the condition of the natives, but protecting the unfortu-
nate mariner who may be wrecked within this dangerous archipelago.

From what has been said of the Paumotu Group, it is evident it can
afford but few advantages for commercial enterprise ; the only article
which of late years has been sought for among the islands, is the pearl
oyster-shell, of which considerable quantities have been obtained. The
return will be noticed under the commerce of Tahiti, of which it
forms a part. The vessels engaged in the fishery belong to foreigners,
who reside at Tahiti. The mode of taking the oysters is by natives,
who are employed as divers, for a very small compensation. It is
much to be regretted, that the traders should have recourse to the
demoralizing effects of spirits, in stimulating their exertions.

The natives themselves carry on a small trade in their double
canoes, which it will be seen by the wood-cut below, have already
undergone some modifications from that already given on a previous
page, as formerly in use. These are principally the Chain Islanders,
who supply themselves at Tahiti with various small articles, in ex-
change for their cocoa-nut oil and dried fish.

TKAIJ1XG IJOUHLK CA.NOK.

VOL. I.

44

APPENDIX.

CONTENTS.

I. STATEMENT IV RELATION TO LIEUTENANT HUDSON 351

II. LETTER FROM THE HON. JOEL R. POINSETT 351

III. LETTER FROM LIEUTENANT HUDSON 352

TV. NAVY GENERAL ORDER 353

V. MEMORANDUM FOR THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE

THE SOUTH SEAS 354

VI. LETTERS TO THE HON. JAMES K. PAULD1NG, AND COMMODORE L. WARRING-
TON 359

VII. ORDERS TO THE RELIEF , 361

VOL GENERAL ORDER, NO. 1 361

IX. ORDERS RESPECTING THE RECEIPT, SAFE KEEPING, AND EXPENDITURE OF

PROVISIONS, STORES, ETC 3C2

X. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS RELATIVE TO OBSERVATIONS 363

X I. INSTRUCTIONS, PORTION OF, PROMULGATED TO OFFICERS 364

XII. GENERAL ORDER RELATIVE TO JOURNALS 367

XIII. LETTER TO LIEUTENANT CRAVEN EXPLANATORY OF GENERAL ORDER

RELATIVE TO JOURNALS 367

XIV. ORDER TO PURSERS, AND LETTER TO SECRETARY OF THE NAVY RELATIVE

TO MARINES' BOUNTY.. 369

XV. LETTER TO THE HON. JAMES K. PAULDING, AND REPORT FROM LIEUTE-
NANT HUDSON RELATIVE TO DEFECTS OF PEACOCK 370

XVI. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS UNDER THE EQUATOR 373

XVII. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT RIO JANEIRO 375

XVIII. MEMORANDUM OF PASSAGES FROM THE UNITED STATES TO RIO JANEIRO

FOR EIGHT YEARS 379

XIX. ORDERS RELATIVE TO PERSONAL APPEARANCE, SCIENTIFIC DUTIES, ETC. 380
2E (3*9)

350 CONTENTS.

XX. ORDERS TO CAPTAIN HUDSON FOR SURVEY, ETC 384

XXI. POPULATION OF BRAZIL 385

XXII. STATEMENT OF THE EXPORTS OF THE PRINCIPAL PRODUCTS OF BRAZIL

DURING THE YEAR 1838 388

XXIII. RESULT OF THE MEASUREMENT OF A BASE LINE BY SOUND BETWEEN

CAPE FRIO LIGHT-HOUSE AND ENXADOS ISLAND 387

XXIV. SAILING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE RELIEF, PEACOCK, PORPOISE, ETC-... 391
XXV. ORDERS TO CAPTAIN HUDSON FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE 394

XXVI. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT R. E. JOHNSON FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE 397

XXVII. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT W. M. WALKER FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE 398

XXVIII. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOAT DUTY, SURVEYING, ETC 400

XXIV. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE VINCENNES 402

XXX. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT LONG 404

XXXI. CAPTAIN HUDSON'S AND LIEUTENANT WALKER'S REPORTS 405

XXXII. ORDER TO SEA-GULL 415

XXXIII. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS IN RELATION TO THE COLLECTION AND PRE-

SERVATION OF SPECIMENS, SHELLS, ETC 415

XXXIV. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT CRAVEN, AND PAPERS RELATIVE TO HIM 418

XXXV. GENERAL ORDER RELATIVE TO GOOD CONDUCT OF CREW 430

XXXVI. ORDER TO LIEUTENANT PINKNEY 420

XXXVII. GENERAL ORDER RELATIVE TO COURT OF INQUIRY 421

XXXVIII. LETTER FROM OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION, AND GENERAL ORDER... 422

XXXIX. ORDERS TO SQUADRON 433

XL. ORDERS TO RELIEF 425

XLI. ORDERS FOR OBSERVATIONS, MODE OF SURVEYING CORAL ISLANDS, ETC. 4-27

XLII. LETTER RELATIVE TO THE WANT OF CONFORMITY TO ORDERS 432

XLIII. ORDER RELATIVE TO CORAL SPECIMENS 433

XLIV. ORDERS TO PORPOISE 433

XLV. ORDERS TO TENDER FLYING-FISH 434

APPENDIX.

i.

STATEMENT IN RELATION TO LIEUTENANT HUDSON'S GOING OUT IN THE
EXPLORING EXPEDITION, UNDER LIEUTENANT WILKES.

LIEUTENANT HUDSON received orders, while first lieutenant of the
navy-yard, New York, to proceed to Washington. On his arrival, he
was told by the Secretary of the Navy, the Hon. Mahlon Dickerson,
that he had been sent for to go out in the Exploring Expedition, and
was directed to see Mr. Poinsett, then Secretary of War, under whose
direction these arrangements had been placed. After an interview
with the Secretary of War, the Secretary of the Navy, and the Presi-
dent of the United States, Lieutenant Hudson declined going out in
the Expedition, under Lieutenant Wilkes, in consequence of his rank,
and the military character of the Expedition. Lieutenant Hudson left
Washington, returned to New York, and resumed his duties as first
lieutenant of the navy-yard, under Commodore Ridgely.

After a short period the following communication was received from
the Hon. Joel R. Poinsett.

II.

[Copy.]

Washington, June 5th, 1838.
LIEUTENANT HUDSON, U. S. NAVY,

Sir, — The anxiety I feel, in common with the whole country, for
the success of the Exploring Expedition, and the high estimate I have
formed, from the testimony of your brother officers, of your character
and abilities, render me exceedingly desirous of securing your services

(351)

352 APPENDIX.

as its second officer. Not only is it of great importance that the
commander should have as his second in command, an officer in
•whose zeal and efficient co-operation he can rely, but the government
desires the choice should fall on one possessing the necessary qualifi-
cations in case of an accident to that officer, to carry out the objects
of the Expedition, and to conduct it in safety to our own shores. With
these views and wishes, I have seen, with regret, that a mere matter
of etiquette prevents you from engaging in a service for which you
are so well fitted.

Regarding as I do the practice of giving officers temporary appoint-
ments as illegal, and prejudicial to the service, I could not recommend
to the President to sanction its continuance for three years longer,
by granting such appointment to the officers of the Expedition.

It does not, however, appear to me, that this decision ought to
present an obstacle to your accepting a command under Lieutenant
Wilkes, whom you rank by what must be considered an imaginary
line.

If the Expedition were of a military character, I would not attempt
to combat your scruples ; but it is purely civil, and even should a war
break out between the United States and any naval power, your path
upon the ocean would be peaceful.

It is the opinion of the President, as well as my own, that an Expe-
dition, undertaken to promote science, and extend the bounds of human
knowledge, ought to command the services of all who can contribute
to its success, in whatever station it may be thought most advantageous
to place them ; and I venture to hope, that waiving all claim to superior
rank, you will accept the command now tendered you.

I am, sir, respectfully yours,

(Signed) J. R. POINSETT.

III.

AFTER Captain Hudson was assured that a General Order would be
published, divesting the Expedition of its military character, and con-
sulting Commodore Ridgely, — well known in the service for his high
sense of honour, and thorough knowledge on all points of etiquette and
duty, and for whose judgment he had great respect, whose decided
opinion and advice was, that it was his duty, as an officer of the
government, under the circumstances of the case, to accept the com-
mand and go out in the Expedition, — Captain Hudson sent the following
acceptance.

APPENDIX. 353

U. S. Navy-Yard,

New York, June 16Ui, 1838.
SIR, —

The peculiarly delicate situation in which I felt myself placed in
relation to Lieutenant Wilkes, must be my excuse for the delay
which has occurred in replying to your communication of the 5th
instant, proffering to me the situation of second in command of the
Exploring Expedition.

The coincidence of opinion between the President and yourself in
relation to its character in a military point of view, the claims of the
nation upon the services of its officers, with the very flattering sugges-
tion contained in your letter, have outweighed my scruples. I, there-
fore, from a sense of duty, accept the command, and tender my best
services to promote the objects of the Expedition, and advance the
honour of our common country.

Very respectfully, yours,

(Signed) WM. L. HUDSON.
To the HON. JOEL R. POINSETT,

Secretary of War.

The following order was issued :

IV.

NAVY GENERAL ORDER.

THE armament of the Exploring Expedition, being adapted merely
for its necessary defence while engaged in the examination and
survey of the Southern Ocean, against any attempts to disturb its
operations by the savage and warlike inhabitants of those islands;
and the objects which it is destined to promote being altogether scien-
tific and useful, intended for the benefit equally of the United States,
and of all commercial nations of the world; it is considered to be
entirely divested of all military character, that even in the event of the
country being involved in a war, before the return of the squadron,
its path upon the ocean will be peaceful, and its pursuits respected
by all belligerents. The President has, therefore, thought proper, in
assigning officers to the command of this squadron, to depart from
the usual custom of selecting them from the senior ranks of the navy
and according to their respective grades in the service; and has
appointed Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, first officer, to command the
Exploring Expedition, and Lieutenant William L. Hudson to command

VOL. i. 45

354 APPENDIX.

the ship Peacock, and to be second officer of said squadron, and take
command thereof, in the event of the death of the first officer, or his
disability, from accident or sickness, to conduct the operations of the
Expedition.

(Signed) MAHLON DICKERSON,

Secretary of the Navy.
Navy Department, June 22d, 1838.

V.

MEMORANDUM FOR THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE THE
SOUTH SEAS, BY ADMIRAL KRUSENSTERN.

NOTE. — The asterisk after the number of some of these articles, denotes that the
islands, &c., have been examined by the Expedition.

I. I HAVE pointed out, in the supplementary volume of my Hydro-
graphical Memoirs, (pages 19, 96, and 113,) several islands, the
existence of which does not appear to be subject to any doubt, but of
which the position is not determined with the best precision. It is
much to be wished that all such islands were to be visited, and their
position verified. With respect to the islands of rather doubtful
existence, the names of which I have given, (pages 156-165, supple-
ment,) there is certainly no other method of ascertaining their ex-
istence than to search for them, and to determine, with the greatest
precision, the latitudes and longitudes of such as are found. A great
number of these imaginary islands will then, of course, vanish from
the charts.

II. Captain Bligh discovered, in the year 1789, to the northward of
the New Hebrides, a group of islands, which he named Banks's
Islands ; and Captain Wilson, another cluster of islands, to the north-
ward of the Santa Cruz Islands, named by him Duff's Group. Neither
these nor the Banks's Islands having been since seen, it would be well
to make a new survey of them.

III. Islands of Santa Cruz. — In my Memoir, belonging to the chart
of these islands, I have discussed the situation of Carteret's Swallow
Island^ and expressed my belief that the islands seen by Captain Wilson
in 1797 are the same as Swallow Island. Captain Freycinet is of the
same opinion, and, by a new survey of Wilson's Island, confirmed this
hypothesis. There remains, then, no doubt that Byron's Swallow
Island does not exist ; but, as it still continues to be delineated on some

APPENDIX. 355

of the latest charts, it would be well that its non-existence should be
equally proved by the American Expedition.

IV. The Solomon Islands. — These islands have partly been visited
by D'Urville and Shortland, partly by D'Entrecasteaux ; and several
English ships have at different times sailed through them ; but a
complete survey of all the islands composing this great archipelago is
still wanting. It is indeed very singular that, of all the navigators who
have lately visited the Pacific Ocean, none have ever attempted any
thing like a systematic survey of these islands, with the exception of
D'Entrecasteaux, who, at least, sailed along the southern islands, from
east to west, and thus greatly improved the hydrography of them. I
have published, in the year 1827, a chart of these islands, (Carte Sys-
tematique de 1'Archipel des Isles Salomon.) Having collected all the
materials that were to be had at that time, many of them in apparent
contradiction to each other, I endeavoured to reconcile them, and to
delineate the islands belonging to this archipelago, to the best of my
judgment. (An account of my proceedings will be found in the
Memoir accompanying my chart.) By the first survey of these
islands, it will be seen whether some of my combinations have been
well founded or not. The Solomon Islands being the greatest archi-
pelago in the Pacific Ocean, and the least known, deserve, no doubt,
to be as completely surveyed as the Society, Friendly, or other groups.
Although ten years have elapsed since my chart was published, nothing
has been done since that time for the hydrography of, these islands, to
enable me to improve the second edition of that chart, (1836,) except
in the situation of a group of islands, discovered lately, to the north-
ward of the Solomon Islands.

V. New Caledonia. — A dangerous reef has lately been discovered by
the ship Petrie, to the northward of New Caledonia ; the precise posi-
tion of this danger ought to be determined.

VI. Loyalty Islands. — Captain D'Urville has been the first to survey
the Loyalty Islands ; but having sailed only along the northern side of
them, it is to be wished that the southern shore might also be surveyed.

VII.* The Feejee Islands. — Captain D'Urville has done a great deal
to give us a more correct chart of these islands, having surveyed a
great part of them ; but still he has left unexplored many islands
belonging to this archipelago. In my supplementary memoir to the
chart of these islands, I have endeavoured to combine Captain D'Ur-
ville's survey with such surveys as had been made previous to his
voyage ; and have constructed, according to all the data that have
come to my knowledge, a new chart of the Feejee Islands, (named by
Captain D'Urville, Viti Islands.) Of course the chart cannot be very

356 APPENDIX.

correct, but it may perhaps serve till a new complete survey is made
of them.

VIII. New Ireland. — It is astonishing that nearly two centuries
have elapsed without the islands situated to the north of New Ireland
— first seen by Tasman, and since by Dampier and Bougainville —
having been examined, so that we know as little of them as was known
one hundred and fifty years ago. There remains, then, to be made a
complete survey of all these islands. As to the islands near them, seen
by Maurell, it is not likely that they are the same, as some have
supposed. This is another reason why they should be all explored with
the greatest precision.

IX. Admiralty Islands. — It is much to be wished that the islands
seen by Maurell, to the eastward of the Great Admiralty Island, should
be explored, since we know that MaurelPs account of his discoveries
does not satisfy the hydrographer.

X. New Britain. — Admiral D'Entrecasteaux has seen and deter-
mined, with his usual exactness, the islands situated along the north
coast of New Britain; but he has not been able to lay down the coast
itself, which he has seen only at a distance, and some parts not at all.

XI.* Low Islands. — Captain Hagemuster, of the Russian navy,
discovered, in the year 1830, an island to the westward of King
George's Islands. This island cannot be any other than Schouten's
Waterlandt. Captain Wilson sailed between two islands, which he
took to be King George's Islands. Most navigators have been of the
same opinion ; although there is a difference of longitude of more than
a degree between the islands seen by Wilson and King George's
Islands. Captain Duperrey, (an excellent authority, as every hydro-
grapher will readily admit,) is of a different opinion ; he maintains that
the two islands between which Wilson sailed are not King George's
Islands, but are situated to the westward of them. He thinks that the
island seen by Captain Hagemuster, which I take to be Waterlandt, is
one of the two islands ; and that Captain Hagemuster has not seen the
other. In order to refute Captain Duperrey 's hypothesis, the second
island, which, according to him, Captain Hagemuster might not have
perceived, ought to be searched for, to the westward of Captain Hage-
muster's island ; if it really does exist, it cannot be at a greater distance
than about fifteen or twenty miles.

XII.* Commodore Byron's Isles of Disappointment have not been
visited since their first discovery in 1765. I have endeavoured to
settle their longitude at 140° 42' W. (page 87 of my supplement) ; but
this being only an approximation, they ought to be surveyed — at leas*
visited anew.

APPENDIX. 357

XIIL* By my Memoirs, page 281, and supplement, page 90, you will
perceive that there is a difference of 27' between Captain Belling-
hausen's and Captain Kotzebue's longitude of the west point of Prince
of Wales's Island* and the island situated to the westward of it.f
What may be the cause of this difference 1 since the two navigators
do not differ, either before or after, more than three minutes. Either
the length of Vlighen Island has been overrated by Captain Kotzebue,
or some other error has crept into the longitude of either the one or
the other. As both are excellent observers, it would be very desi-
rable to settle this point, by examining and surveying carefully all
the islands lying to the westward and eastward of Vlighen Island,
and determine with the greatest precision the width of the channels
separating the different islands, as well as the exact length of Vlighen
or Prince of Wales's Island : the error will, most likely, be detected
in the length of that isle.

XIV.* There is a difference of 17' in the longitude of the isle Cler-
mont de Tonnerre between Captain Duperrey and Captain Beechey.
At Serle Island, close to it, there is hardly any difference at all. The
same difference of 17' exists in the longitude of Prince William Henry,
which Captain Beechey has proved to be the same with Captain
Duperrey's isle Lortingo ; whereas at Mollu Island, both Captains
Beechey and Duperrey agree perfectly well. It would be worth while
to search for the cause of such anomalies.

XV.* Captain Beechey is of opinion that Captain Duperrey's isle
Clermont de Tonnerre is one and the same with the island of Minerva.
Captain Duperrey, on the contrary, maintains that the island Minerva
is the same as Serle Island. I am of this latter opinion ; although the
solution of this problem will much depend upon the distance of the
island Clermont de Tonnerre from Serle Island, which is much less on
Duperrey's chart than on Captain Beechey's.

XVL* There has been lately discovered an island of considerable
extent, of the name of Raraka. It would be well to examine it, since
the account given of it is not quite satisfactory. It is stated to be
situated in 16° 3' S., and 145° 0' W.

XVIL* I have placed on my chart of the Low Islands, several
islands, the position of which is rather doubtful; for instance, the
Bunyer's Group of Turnbull, the island of Britomart, the islands dis-
covered by Quiros, and several others. In order to have any certainty
about their existence and precise position, it is necessary to search for
and make a survey of them.

* On some charts this island is named Dean's Isle ; on my charts Vlighen Isle,
t By Captain Porter called Gamble ; by Captain Kotzebue, Krusenstern Island.

358 APPENDIX.

XVIIL* The Islands of San Bernardo and the Islands of Danger. —
Mendane discovered a group of islands, named by him San Bernardo.
These islands have been seen by Captains Freycinet and Bellinghausen.
Not far from them Byron discovered a small group, which he named
Islands of Danger. Notwithstanding a difference of latitude of half a
degree, the two groups have been considered as one and the same. It
has not been thought impossible that in Byron's latitudes there might
have been a typographical error : besides, none, of all the navigators
who have passed here, have ever found a second group, which they
could not have missed if it really existed. Captain Duperrey, how-
ever, who is, as I have said above, a high authority in whatever relates
to the hydrography of the South Seas, is of a different opinion : he
maintains that Byron's Islands of Danger do exist. In order to settle
that question, it is necessary to search under the meridian of the
islands San Bernardo, as determined by Captain Bellinghausen, for
these Islands of Danger in the latitude assigned to them by Byron, as
well as for the chain of rocks of which he speaks, and which are
situated, according to him, to the eastward. This has not been done
yet, and it would be very desirable if it was done, in order not to leave
the least doubt on the subject.

XIX.* Marianne Islands. — On Captain Freycinet's chart there is to
be seen, to the southwest of the island of Assumption, rocks, by the
name of Mary's. Rocks of the same name have been seen by La
Perouse, to the northward of Assumption Island. In case the Expedi-
tion should extend its exploratory researches to the northern hemi-
sphere, this doubtful point should be settled.

XX.* Caroline Islands. — These islands have been so well surveyed
by Captain Duperrey and Captain Liitke, that there is very little now
left to be done concerning them. I shall, however, point out here some
islands that require to be determined with great precision : 1. The
island named by Captain Morell, Fasolis, is most likely the same with
Captain Liitke's, Farroilep ; but a difference of 21' in latitude, makes
this doubtful. 2. Island Lydia, on Captain Duperrey's chart. We do
not know by whom it has been discovered, nor who has determined its
situation. 3. I have endeavoured to prove, in my Supplementary
Memoir of the Caroline Islands, that the islands Bordelaire, Fame,
Campbell, and the island St. Augustine, are one and the same. This
hypothesis requires to be verified. 4. The Monteverde Islands ought
to be surveyed; what Captains Monteverde and Morell, the only
navigators who have seen them, have said of them, is not sufficiently
satisfactory. 5. We see on Captain Duperrey's chart of the Caroline
Islands, several islands, of which we know nothing more than the

APPENDIX. 359

name, viz. : Bumkay's, Quekin's, &c., and their existence and position
remain to be ascertained. 6. The island of Arrecifos has, so far as
my knowledge extends, been seen only by the ship Providence, in the
year 1811. Not knowing much respecting it, it is to be wished that it
should be surveyed.

XXL* The Island of Gilbert. — At the end of my supplementary
volume, I have pointed out what remains to be done in order to have
a perfect knowledge of all the islands belonging to this archipelago.

Remark. — Independent of the American Exploratory Expedition,
there are to be at the same time three others in the South Seas : two
English and one French expedition. Many of the islands will of
course be visited by all the expeditions ; and it is to be apprehended
that their longitudes, determined by the different astronomers of the
expeditions, will, perhaps, not agree so well as might be wished. This
difficulty will of course be obviated, by referring their astronomical
observations to the longitudes of such places as are determined by
absolute astronomical observations with the greatest precision, and
those most likely to be visited by the ships of the expeditions. The
positions we have in the South Seas, are Point Venus, in longitude 149°
29' 17" W., determined by the passage of Venus over the disk of the
sun ; Port Honolulu, in the island of Oaho, by occultation of several
stars, in 202° 10' E. ; and Port Jackson, Sydney Cove, in 151° 17' E., by
an eclipse of the sun. In the northern part of the Pacific, East Cape
190° 16' 10" E., may be adopted as a well-fixed point, although not
determined by absolute astronomical observations. With respect to the
coast of South America, Talcahuana, the longitude of which was deter-
mined by Captain Beechey, to be in 72° 56' 59" W., seems to me a
well-determined point. Captain Duperrey is not of that opinion ; and
it remains to be settled whether the longitude of Talcahuana, or Valpa-
raiso, in 71° 33' 34" W., deserves the preference.

KRUSENSTEEN.
St. Petersburg, January 26, 1837.

VI.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Hampton Roads, August 14th, 1838.
SIR, —

I have the honour to state, that since my arrival here, I have
examined the General Requisition, complained of by Commodore
Warrington and the Commissioners of the Navy, and find (as I was
well aware was the case) it duly approved by me.

360 APPENDIX.

The articles that were stricken off the Requisition, were the most
necessary for us of any thing contained therein ; and I regret to say,
that in consequence of the objections to allow indispensable articles
for the service we are going on, we shall be obliged to go to sea much
less efficient than we would had they been furnished, and which will
compel me to subject the government to pay quadruple prices for the
same articles at Rio de Janeiro.

I have to request, that you will show this letter to the Honourable
Commissioners of the Navy, in order to notify them that the Requi-
sition was not irregularly drawn, but duly approved by myself, and
consequently assumed as my act.

I have the honour, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
HON. JAS. K. PAULDING,

Secretary of the Navy, Washington.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Hampton Roads, August 18th, 1838.
SIR, —

I have this morning ascertained that only one set of pump-gear is
on board this vessel, and one on board the Peacock, which are now
in use.

The pumps of the Vincennes are 6| inches.
2 " Peacock " 6 "

2 " " " 6J

We are now otherwise ready for sea, but cannot sail without these,
as they cannot be obtained elsewhere ; also two kedges are required,
and a hose for the pumps, and pipe for the hose of the forcing-pump,
and an iron brake for the Vincennes.

I have to request the favour of you to direct that three complete sets
of pump-boxes, &c., for each vessel, may be furnished to-day.

All these articles have been repeatedly called for by the officers from
this ship, but without success.

I am, most respectfully, sir,

Your most obedient servant,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
COMMODORE L. WARRINGTON,

Navy-Yard, Gosport, Va.

APPENDIX. 361

VII.

U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

At Sea, August 22d, 1838.
SIR, —

You will proceed with all practicable despatch to Port Praya, in the
island of St. Jago, where you will remain five days, and then proceed
to Rio de Janeiro, where you will await further orders.

During your stay at Port Praya, you will fill up with water, and
supply your crew fully with fresh provisions and vegetables.

You will leave a communication with the consul of that port on
your departure addressed to me, in case you should not hear from me
before that period.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
To LIEUT. COM. A. K. LONG,

U. S. Ship Relief.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sr.-i, August 22d, 1838.
SIR,—

Should you arrive at Rio de Janeiro before this ship, you will inform
the navy agent there, that about twenty-five thousand pounds of bread
will be required at that port for the Exploring Expedition, on our
arrival there, and request him to have the same prepared, of the first
quality, that there may be no detention.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES.

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
A. K. Loxc,

Lieutenant-Commandant Relief!

VIII.

GENERAL ORDER. NO. I.

THE squadron being now ready for sea, the undersigned, Commander
of the Exploring Expedition, takes this opportunity to return his warmest
thanks to the officers, scientific gentlemen, seamen, and marines, for the
indefatigable exertions they have made in equipping the vessels in their
several departments: being well aware that had it not been for the
individual and united exertions of all, the preparations could not have
been accomplished in the short space of time they have been; and he

VOL. T. 46

362 APPENDIX.

feels confident that the same hearty zeal and co-operation will carry us
successfully through the arduous service in which we have embarked.

To all the officers of the Expedition the undersigned would remark,
that every feeling which a devotion to such a cause can inspire, is felt
by him ; and that every thing will be looked to, which can tend to
insure success in this undertaking, may be confidently relied on.

Harmony and good feeling he would enjoin upon all ; the necessity
of cultivating this, and the united exertions of all, cannot claim too
much of your attention. Continue as you have commenced, and rest
assured that we shall be successful in meeting the expectations of our
country.

You may rest assured also of receiving impartial justice from me,
and that in the assignment of duties and promotions, if any should
occur; and that all will have the opportunities they desire of entering
upon the scientific duties, nothing shall be wanting that can tend to
this end.

To the scientific gentlemen, I have only to say, that they are, and
always will be considered as one of us, and that every opportunity
will be given them that can be imagined by the undersigned or suggested
by them, to promote the success of the Expedition, in their particular
departments. My conduct towards them will be the same as towards
the officers with whom they are associated.

Those composing the crews of the several vessels of the squadron,
may be assured that every thing will be done to promote their comfort,
and every indulgence granted them compatible with the interests of the
service ; and it is confidently expected that they will strictly conform
to the rules and regulations of the navy, and of the squadron ; and that
the same respect for their officers, good conduct, and good feeling for
each other, will exist at all times.

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vincenncs.

IX.

ORDERS RESPECTING THE RECEIPT, SAFE-KEEPING, AND EXPENDITURE OF
PROVISIONS, STORES, ETC.

A RETURN of all stores and provisions will be made before sailing,
and thereafter, on the 1st of each month, of all stores and provisions
on hand and expended.

The Relief having a large proportion of stores on hand, no expen-

APPENDIX. 363

diture of stores will take place, unless by a requisition approved
by me.

Great care and economy of stores is enjoined upon the commanders
in regard to the expenditures of provisions and stores ; and much is
expected, in regard to their preservation and expenditure, from the
well-known prudence and attention of the officer commanding the
Relief.

The attention of the commanders of the respective vessels is parti-
cularly called to the expenditure of wood, and every precaution is
enjoined for its economical consumption.

The monthly returns will not only embrace the actual condition of
the provisions and stores, but the quantity of wood, water, &c., on
hand, and expended.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Hampton Roads, August 14th, 1838.

X.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS RELATIVE TO OBSERVATIONS.

THE surgeon and his assistants will take the meteorological obser-
vations at 3 p. M., 9 p. M., 3 A. M., and 9 A. M. ; viz, the standing of
barometer, thermometer, and hygrometer.

The temperature at the masthead, and that of the water, wind,
weather, and the force of the wind, the quantity of rain, &c. ; the
officers of the watch will note and make any remarks of their own,
regarding facts that may have occurred, (during their watch,) in the
meteorological journal : all astronomical and atmospherical pheno-
mena, it is desired may claim attention, and be noted under their
respective heads. Astronomical phenomena, such as shooting stars,
zodiacal lights, aurora borealis, the height of their arcs, their colours,
&c., measured and the direction they take in the heavens. Atmo-
spherical phenomena, such as rainbows, halos, water-spouts, lightning,
appearance of the clouds, rain, the Magellanic clouds, to be noted when
first observed ; in short, any unusual appearance connected with the
weather.

Of the sea, all phosphorescent lights, fishes, and all substances
adhering to weeds, must not fail to claim attention, and specimens of
them obtained. Fish caught must be preserved till opened in the
presence of an officer, and their stomachs carefully examined, and if
any thing is found, it must be taken care of.

Things and animals that might in ordinary cases be deemed trouble-

364 APPENDIX.

some and useless, are not to be lost sight of, but are to be picked up
for examination.

Every opportunity of trying the current must be taken advantage of,
and marked.

Astronomical observations, viz., lunar distances of the stars, east,
and west of the moon, of the sun, and of the planets, to be frequently
taken.

Observations for chronometers must be taken daily, mornings and
afternoons, when the weather will permit ; azimuths and amplitudes,
at least once or twice a day, in the morning, or in the afternoon, and
the ship's head noted at the same time.

Any of the officers (among whom are considered the scientific
gentlemen) will on all occasions promote the objects of the Expedition
by procuring any article referred to in the foregoing instructions, or
aiding in carrying into effect the same. And the officer of the deck
is authorized to stop the ship's way, and perform any evolution with a
view of carrying into effect the above, in which case he will report
the same immediately to me, if time does not permit his doing so
previously.

It is necessary for the sea-officers to make themselves thoroughly
acquainted with the heavenly constellations, in order to be efficient in
noting the course of meteors, &c.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vinconncs,

At Sea, August 25th, 1838.

XI.

U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

At Sea, August 25th, 1838.

THE undersigned, commanding the Exploring Expedition, in com-
municating the following instructions, from the Navy Department, for
the government and information of those under his command, directs
the particular attention of all persons in the Expedition to the same,
and especially to that part of them, which prohibits any one furnishing
to persons not attached to the Exploring Expedition, any commu-
nications which have reference to the objects or proceedings of the
Expedition.

" Although the primary object of the Expedition is the promotion of
the great interests of commerce and navigation, yet you will take all
occasions, not incompatible with the great purpose of your under-
taking, to extend the bounds of science, and promote the acquisition
of knowledge. For the more successful attainment of this, a corps of

APPENDIX. 365

scientific gentlemen, consisting of the following persons, will accom-
pany the Expedition, and are placed under your direction.

MR. HALE, Philologist,

MR. PICKERING, )

•», -r, [ Naturalists.

MR. PEALE, }

MR. COUTHOUY, Conchologist.

MR. RICH, Botanist.

MR. DANA, Mineralogist.

MR. DRAYTON, ) _

MR. AGATE, [Draughtsmen.

MR. BRACKENRIDGE, Horticulturist.

" The hydrography and geography of the various seas and countries
you may visit in the route pointed out to you in the preceding instruc-
tions, will occupy your special attention; and all the researches
connected with them, as well as with astronomy, terrestrial magnet-
ism, and meteorology, are confined exclusively to the officers of the
Navy, on whose zeal and talents the Department confidently relies
for such results as will enable future navigators to pass over the track
traversed by your vessels, without fear and without danger.

"No special directions are thought necessary, as to the mode of
conducting the scientific researches and experiments which you are
enjoined to prosecute, nor is it intended to limit the members of the
corps each to his own particular service.

" All are expected to co-operate harmoniously in those kindred pur-
suits, whose equal dignity and usefulness should insure equal ardour
and industry in extending their bounds and verifying their principles.

" As guides to yourself and to the scientific corps, the Department
would, however, direct your particular attention to the learned and
comprehensive Report of a committee of the American Philosophical
Society of Philadelphia, the Report of a Committee of the East India
Marine Society of Salem, Massachusetts; and to a communication
from the Naval Lyceum of New York, which accompany, and are to
be regarded as forming a part of these instructions, as far as they may
accord with the primary objects of the Expedition, and its present
organization. You will, therefore, allow the gentlemen of the scientific
corps the free perusal of these valuable documents, and permit them to
copy such portions as they may think proper.

" The Russian Vice- Admiral, Krusenstern, transmitted to the De-
partment memorandums relating to the objects of this Expedition,
together with the most approved charts of his Atlas of the Pacific
Ocean, with explanations, in three volumes. These are also confided
to your care, and it is not doubted that the friendly contribution of

360 APPENDIX.

this distinguished navigator, will essentially contribute to the success
of an enterprise in which he takes so deep an interest. It being
considered highly important, that no journal of this voyage, either
partial or complete, should be published, without the authority and
under the supervision of the government, at whose expense this
Expedition is undertaken, you will, before you reach the waters of
the United States, require from every person under your command,
the surrender of all journals, memorandums, remarks, writings, draw-
ings, sketches, and paintings, as well as all specimens of every kind,
collected or prepared during your absence from the United States.
After causing correct inventories of these to be made, and signed by
two commissioned officers, and by the parties by whom they were
collected or prepared, you will cause them to be carefully sealed by
the said officers, and reserved for such disposition as the Department
may direct. You will adopt the most efficient measures to prepare
and preserve all specimens of natural history that may be collected ;
and should any opportunity occur for sending them home by a vessel
of war of the United States, also copies of information, duplicates of
specimens, or any other materials, you may deem important to pre-
serve from future accident, you will avail yourself of the occasion ;
forwarding, as frequently as may be done with safety, details of your
voyage, and its most material events ; at the same time strictly pro-
hibiting all communications, except to this Department, from any
person attached to the Expedition, referring to discoveries, or any
circumstances connected with the progress of your enterprise.

" It is believed that the officers under your command require no
special advice or direction from this Department. Bearing in mind,
as they no doubt will, that the undertaking in which they are about
assisting to accomplish, is one that necessarily attracts the attention
of the civilized world, and that the honour and interest of their country
are equally involved in its results, it is not for a moment doubted, but
that in this, as on all other occasions, they will so conduct themselves
as to add to the reputation our navy has so justly acquired at home
and abroad.

" With the best wishes for the success of the Expedition, and the
safe return of yourself and your companions,

" I am, very respectfully, &c.,

(Signed) " JAS. K. PATJLDING,

" Secretary of the Navy.

"Navy Department, August llth, 1838."

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

APPENDIX. 367

XII.

GENERAL ORDER.

ALT, the officers of the Exploring Expedition will be required to
conform to the rules and regulations of the service, by keeping a
journal during the cruise, which he will send to the commander of the
ship to which he may be attached, weekly.

This journal will contain the daily reckoning, distances, bearings,
&c., of the ship when at sea ; also, a full record (with such observa-
tions and remarks as may present themselves) in relation to all
occurrences or objects of interest, which may, at the time, be consi-
dered even of the least importance, and which may come under the
observation of the officers, whether on board ship or on shore, and may
tend to illustrate any transaction or occurrence which may take place,
or afford any information in regard to the manners, habits, or customs
of natives, and the position and characters of such places as may be
visited. The journals required by this order will be disposed of
agreeably to the directions of the Honourable Secretary of the Navy,
and it is expected that they will be as full and complete as possible.

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, September 13th, 1838.

XIII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, September 13th, 1838.
SIR, —

As the officers may not understand the kind of journal it is necessary
for them to keep, I take this occasion to make known the expectations
of the government and my wishes respecting this part of their duty,
which I consider as paramount to all others.

1st. The duties devolving upon all the officers of this Expedition are
altogether of a public nature, and it is incumbent on me to say,
require of them to bestow their constant and devoted attention to all
incidents, facts, or occurrences, which may present themselves, in
order that hereafter they may (if necessary) verify or confirm by their
testimony any information in relation to the same, and thereby place
the evidence beyond a doubt. This can only be effected by keeping

368 APPENDIX.

full and complete memoranda of all observations, made at the time,
and entered in the journals.

2d. I consider it of great importance, that every officer should know
the actual situation of the ship, from his own calculations, that when
called upon at any moment, he might be able to refer to his own
journal for the results. On this might possibly depend the safety and
ultimate success of the Expedition, as one or two might fall into error,
but it is not likely that many would.

3d. The kind of journal required is not a mere copy of the log-board,
but it is a diary, in which will be noticed all that relates to public
information, being a record of all objects of interest, however small,
which may take place during the cruise, in the scientific or any other
department : and the views of the officer ought to be briefly expressed
concerning things that may come under his notice. The very record
that nothing has transpired during the day, may be of use ; but it is
believed that this will be of rare occurrence.

The whole will form a mass of evidence for the use of the govern-
ment on our return, which will tend to illustrate and make clear the
transactions and occurrences that may have taken place, as well as
the habits, manners, customs, &c., of the natives, and the positions,
descriptions, and character of such places as we may visit.

These memoranda are highly essential to me, in order that nothing
may be neglected or overlooked in conducting the Expedition to a
successful issue, in which we are all so deeply interested. I wish
particularly to avail myself of the results and observations of all, to
avoid the possibility of passing over any subject without full examina-
tion and remark.

A casual memorandum or observation, believed at the time of little
importance, may lead to important and satisfactory results. These
journals, therefore, will become a useful medium of communication
between the officers and myself, relative to the scientific and other
duties in progress.

I trust I need not remark that the above relates entirely to public
transactions. With private affairs I have nothing to do: they are, and
always should be deemed sacred, and, consequently, will form no part
of the records.

I enclose a special order relating to this subject, which you will
promulgate to the officers of this ship.

I am, respectfully, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
THOMAS T. CRAVEN,

First Lieutenant, Vinccnnes.

APPENDIX.

XIV.

U. S. Ship Viucenues,

At Sea, September 14th, 1838.

As it appears to me that the bounty recently directed by the Fourth
Auditor, to be checked against the marines now attached to the
Exploring Expedition, was given to them by the authority of the
Navy Department, through Commodore Jones, (as appears by his
General Order, No. 1,) not as recruits, but in consideration of their
obligating themselves to serve during the cruise of the Expedition,
without reference to their term of service ; I deem it, therefore,
proper and just to order the Pursers of the Exploring Expedition not
to check the bounty against the marines of the squadron under my
command.

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
To Messrs. R. R. WALDRON and WM. SJPIEUEN,
Pursers, U. S. N.

U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,

At Sea, September 14th, 1838.
SIR, —

It was with much surprise I learnt, a few days after sailing from
Hampton Roads, that the pursers of the Exploring Expedition had
received instructions from the Fourth Auditor to check the marines
now in the Exploring Expedition with the bounty paid them in
November, 1837, by order of Commodore Jones.

I flattered myself that I had, on sailing, overcome all the obstacles
that had occurred, and I was not a little excited on finding that a new
apple of discord had been thrown into the squadron, and particularly
that part of it so valuable and necessary as the marines.

I presume, however, this has been done without a knowledge of the
mischief it might produce in the efficiency and progress of the Expedi-
tion, if carried into effect.

As it appears that some of the marines who received this bounty
had been in the service a long time, and none of them were recruits ,
and with a view of preventing any mischievous effects upon those now
in the Expedition, I have issued an order to the pursers not to check the
bounty referred to ; a copy of which is herewith enclosed, marked No. 1 ;
also a letter from Sergeant Stearns, in relation to the subject, marked
No. 2 ; I take leave also to enclose a copy of the General Order issued
by Commodore Jones to the Exploring Expedition in October, 1837,

VOL. i. 47

APPENDIX.

marked No. 3, which appears to me to embrace the case, and has, in
my opinion, pledged the faith of the government fully ; whether he was
authorized by the Department to give such pledges or not, is, I think,
wholly immaterial to the present case. It has been done : and those
who have complied and received the bounty, believed such to be the
fact, which the Department alone could give, thereby binding the
contract on the part of the government ; which (acting for the best
interests of the service in which we are engaged) I have thought
proper to confirm by issuing the order referred to, which I cannot
doubt will meet your approbation.

I have the honour, &c.,

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition
To the HON. JAMES K. PAULDING,

Secretary of the Navy.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Off Madeira, September 20th, 1838.
SIR, —

Although, previous to sailing from Hampton Roads, I was aware of
some of the deficiencies in the outfits of this ship and the Peacock, in
preparing them at the navy-yard, Norfolk, for the service in which we
are engaged, I omitted to mention the same to the Department, owing
to the necessity of our sailing without delay or detention ; but since
our arrival at this port, the Peacock particularly has been found in
such a condition, that it is with regret I consider it my duty to
represent the same to you, and take leave to enclose herewith a report
of their commander, by which it appears she was in a much worse
condition on leaving the dock-yard at Norfolk, than had been anti-
cipated ; instead of being well prepared for the service required in the
Exploring Expedition.

I have forwarded to you, through the navy-agent at New York, for
your examination, a box containing an. iron hoop, taken from one of
the pumps of the Peacock, as a fair specimen of the little attention
which had been bestowed upon her at the navy-yard in her repairs. I
have to state also, that a few days after the ship left the navy-yard,
her fore and cross-jack-yards were found so much decayed, that it
was necessary to replace them by new ones, on representation of her
commander.

I consider it my duty to state that we have found nearly all the men
furnished us from the receiving-ship, Norfolk, by your order, unfit for

APPENDIX. 371

the duty required of them ; and on sending some of them back, they
refused to receive them ; consequently I shall have to send them home,
or transfer them to the squadron on the Brazil coast, if Commodore
Nicolson will take them, and obtain others if possible.

We shall be put to much inconvenience and delay at Rio de Janeiro,
where it will be necessary to repair and recalk the Peacock, as far as
possible to enable her to perform the cruise required; this will be
attended with much additional expense, and is another reason for
making a full representation of the facts, to be made use of as the
Department may see fit.

I have the honour to be, sir,

Most respectfully, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES.

Commanding1 Exploring Expedition.
To the HON. JAS. K. PAULDINO,

Secretary of the Navy

U. S. Ship Peacock,

Madeira. September 18th, 1838.
t-t
blR,

In a verbal communication, a few days previous to leaving Hampton
Roads, I stated to you that I could point out many things that ought
to be done, or rather done over, on board this ship, particularly the
calking about the water-ways, sides of the ship, deck, &c., and that I
had no doubt the ship would make considerable water, when we got
to sea ; as the work enumerated would occupy some time, and to do it
conveniently we ought to go back to the yard, it was determined at
that interview (from the great desire of the Department, and in fact
the whole country, that the Exploring Squadron should get to sea.
as well as the injurious effects delay would have upon the officers and
men) that the squadron should get off the moment sailing orders were
received, and remedy as much as possible within our means, such
defects as might thereafter show themselves in the course of our
passage.

Coinciding most fully in opinion with yourself, on that occasion, as
soon as I returned to the Peacock, I had an examination of our pump-
gear, and found but one set of boxes in the two forward pumps, which,
from their rusty and otherwise worn-out appearance, I was induced to
believe had not been removed since her arrival in port. The pump-
gear had not yet come on board ; we immediately sent to the navy-
yard for it ; when it arrived, (the day before sailing,) the pumps were
tried, and appeared to work well ; w,e found, however, two of the
pumps with half an inch less diameter or bore than the others ; this I

372 APPENDIX.

consider a defect, for two reasons : first, the small ones not discharging
as much water as the large ; secondly, having to use pump-boxes of
different sizes in the same ship, where from accident to one set, the
other cannot be used to make up the deficiency. As the sequel proved,
the ship leaked considerably the moment we got a breeze which drove
us through the sea ; not only through her water-ways, upper works,
and decks, but through the eyes of her combings, I presume through
the scarf in the stem, — at all events, running by buckets-full down the
apron into the store-room, forcing such quantities of water on her berth-
deck, that I found it necessary to scuttle it to carry the water off.

The chain-cables of the ship I rowsed out of the lockers at sea,
examined the shackles, and found it necessary in two of the cables to
have almost every shackle put in the forge. So completely had the
bolts rusted in, that they could not be started until fire had done its
work upon them, and even then some of them had to be cut entirely
out. While thus making an overhaul below, I examined the pump-
well, and to my utter surprise and astonishment, found all the iron
bands on the two after pumps, below the berth-deck, in the state of the
one I now send to you for inspection ; and from the fact of one of
them having entirely rusted off", and found lying in pieces at the
bottom of the well-room, it may fairly be inferred they were not
examined at all after the arrival of the ship at Norfolk. I had the
two pumps, from which the bands had dropped off, well woulded at sea,
and from the appearance of soft spots about them, am fearful when
taken out, (which must be done at Rio,) we will find them rotten.

I should have recommended taking them out here, but in consequence
of having to raise up a portion of the spar-deek for that purpose, think
we may venture to delay it until our arrival at that port. I have also
to state that the bibbs of both the fore and main-masts have started and
canted three-quarters of an inch forward, and work considerably
while at sea. This we shall remedy by raising our lower rigging,
tops, and trestle-trees, and endeavour to get them back in their places,
and secure them with extra bolts. I have stated but a few of many
defects, and can only say that I have, during my service, assisted in
the fitting out of many vessels, and regret, under all the circumstances
of the case, to be compelled to add, that, taken as a whole, the Peacock
has been fitted out, (so far as the navy-yard was concerned,) with less
regard to safety and convenience, than any vessel I have ever had
any thing to do with.

Respectfully, &c.,
(Signed) WM. L. HUDSON,

CHARLES WII.KES, Commanding U. S. Ship Peacock

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

APPENDIX.

373

XVI.

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE ON BOARD THE UNITED STATES SHIP
VINCENNES, UNDER THE EQUATOR.

NOVEMBER 6 T H, 1838.

Mean Barometer,
Highest at 11 r. si.
Lowest at 3 r. si.

Mean Sympiesometer,
Highest at 11 P. si.
Lowest at 4 r. H.

Mean temperature of air,
Mean temperature of water

29-99
30-04
29-94

29-68
29-74
29-62

75-37°
76-10°

NOVEMBER 7TII.

'

HOUR.

BAROMETER.

SYSIPIESOMETER.

REMARKS.

P. SI.

A. SI.

P. SI.

A. SI.

1

29-98

29-98

29-66

29-68

Mean Barometer, 30-00

2

29-98

29-98

29-66

29-67

Highest at 9 A. M 30-05

3

29-96

29-98

29-63

29-68

Lowest at 3 p. M 29-96

4

29-97

29-98

29-63

29-68

5

29-97

30-01

29-64

29-70

Mean Sympiesometer, . . . 29-68

6

29-98

30-02

29-65

29-72

Highest at 8 A. M 29-74

7

30-00

30-02

29-68

29-70

Lowest at 4 p. M 29-68

8

30-02

30-03

29-68

29-74

9

30-03

30-05

29-70

29-72

Mean Temp, of air, .... 76-20°

10

30-04

30-02

29-72

29-69

Mean Temp, of water, . . . 76-18°

11

30-04

30-00

29-72

29-68

12

29-98

29-99

29-68

29-66

2G

374

APPENDIX.

X V I. — CONTINUED.

NOVEMBER 8TH.

HOUR.

BAROMETER.

SYMPIESOMETER.

REMARKS.

P. M.

A. M. P. M.

A. M.

1

29-95

29-99

29-64

29-68

Mean Barometer, 29-95

2

29-94

29-98

29-63

29-65

Highest at 9 p. M 30-04

3

29-93

29-98

29-60

29-68

Lowest at 3 P. M 29-93

4

29-96

29-98

29-62

29-68

5

30-00

30-00

29-64

29-70

Mean Sympiesometer, . . . 29-67

6

30-00

30-00

29-66

29-72

Highest at 9 p. M '. 29-74

7

30-03

29-99

29-70

29-71

Lowest at 3 P. M 29-60

8

30-04

30-00

29-72

29-70

9

30-04

30-01

29-74

29-73

Mean Temp, of air, .... 75-18°

10

30-04

30-02

29-74

29-72

Mean Temp, of water, . . . 76-26°

11

30-02

30-00

29-72

29-70

12

30-00

29-98

29-70

29-68

NOVEMBER 9TH.

1

29-98

30-00

29-62

29-70

2

29-97

29-98

29-65

29-70

Highest at 10 P. M 30-05

3

29-94

29-68

Lowest at 3 A. M 29-94

4

29-95

29-68

5

29-95

29-95

29-63

29-68

Mean Sympiesometer, . . . 29-68

6

29-97

29-98

29-64

29-68

Highest at 9 p. M 29-74

7

30-00

30-00

29-68

29-70

Lowest at 1 A. M 29-62

8

30.01

30-01

29-74

29-72

9

30-02

30-02

29-74

29-70

Mean Temp, of air, .... 75-87°

10

30-05

30-02

29-74

29-69

Mean Temp, of water, . . . 76-60°

11

30-05

30-00

29-74

29-68

12

30-02

29-98

29-72

29-64

TABLE OF METEOROLOGICAL OBSE

HIGHEST RANGE OF THERMOM.

LOWEST RANGE OF THERMOM.

MEAN

MONTHS.

1833.

1834.

1835.

1836. 1837.

1833.

1834.

1835

1836.

1837.

1833.

1834. ,

JANUARY.

92-5°

89°

91°

90°

91°

74°

80=

740

76°

73°

80-75^

78-33°

FEBRUARY.

93

90

91

90

85

79

79

76

78

76

74-33

77-5

MARCH.

90

88

85

90

86

76

77

74

76

73

73-5

70

APRIL.

88

84

80

82

79

76

72

72

68

69

72-25

73-5

MAY.

78

82

78

73

80

71

72

68

67

68

76

72-66

JUNE.

77

75

75

78

74

69

66

68

66

65

78-33

76-66

JULY.

76

77

77

77

76

67

69

68

66

64

79

75-25

AUGUST.

81

79

79

82

80

71

66

64

70

67

83

76

SEPTEMBER.

84

84

79

81

85

73

72

66

65

67

84

80-75

OCTOBER.

86

84

80

83

83

75

68

69

66

73

82-5

83-5

NOVEMBER.

89

83

84

83

82

76

71

73

72

72

87

84

DECEMBER.

91

90

88

86

85

80

72

72

76

73

83-5

81-25

1833.

1834.

Mean of the highest range of

Mean of the highest range of

Mean of

Thermometer at noon, for

Thermometer at noon, for

Therm

12 months, 85-5°

12 months . 83-75°

12 moi

Mean of the lowest range of

Mean of the lowest range of

Mean of

Thermometer at noon, for

Thermometer at noon, for

Therm*

12 months, 74

12 months . 72

12 mor>

Mean temp, for 12 months at

Mean temp, for 12 months, at

Mean ten

noon, 79-5

noon, ... . 77-5

noon

Fair days in 12 months, 276 ^

Fair days in 12 months, 238 i

Fair day

Cloudy do. do. 41 v 365

Cloudy do do. 56 V 365

Cloudy

Rainy do. do. 48 ^

Rainy do. do. 71 )

Rainy

HIGHEST RANGE OF THERMOM.

LOWEST RANGE OF THERMOM.

—

MONTHS.

1838.

1839.

1840.

1841.

1838.

1839.

1840.

1841.

JANUARY.

86°

87°

88°

87°

75°

740

75°

75°

FEBRUARY.

87

88

88

84

76

77

82

77

1

MARCH.

86

83

85

87

74

75

75

82

APRIL.

82

83

80

85

72

73

75

78

•

MAY.

76

79

80

78

68

71

70

71

1

JUNE.

76

76

76

75

70

68

68

69

•

JULY.

75

75

74

74

69

65

68

68

•

AUGUST.

75

76

75

77

66

65

65

66

•

SEPTEMBER.

78

76

82

77

70

68

73

68

•

OCTOBER.

83

82

86

84

72

69

73

72

NOVEMBER.

86

86

84

84

72

74

76

73

7

DECEMBER.

90

88

87

84

75

74

79

72

,-

1838.

1839.

Moan of the highest range of Thermo-
meter at noon, for 12 months, . . .

Mean of the lowest range of Thermo-
meter at noon, for 12 months, . . .

Mean temp, for 12 months, at noon, .

Fair days in 12 months, 228 1

Cloudy do. do. 70 >

Rainy do. do. 67 )

81-663

71-53
76-53

365

Mean of the highest range of Thermo-
meter at noon, for 12 months, . . .
Mean of the lowest range of Thermo,
meter at noon, for 12 months, . . .
Mean temp, for 12 months, at noon,
Fair days in 12 months, 219 1
Cloudy do. do. 67 V 365

Rainy do. do. 79 ^

Mean average of highest range of Therrn.
from 1833 to '41, 9 years, at noon, 82-059°

Mean average of lowest range of Therm,
from 1833 to '41, 9 years at noon, 71-064O

10 JANEIRO, BY MR. JOHN GARDNER.

FAIR DAYS.

CLOUDY DAYS.

RAINY DAYS.

!37.

1833.

1834.

1835.

1836.

1837.

1833.

1834.

1835.

1836.

1837.

1833.

1834.

1835.1836.

1837.

o

12

22

21

26

24

7

5

4

2

3

12

4

6

3

4

1-8

20

24

25

23

18

3

3

0

3

6

5

1

3

3

4

i-6

23

20

18

18

23

3

6

1

4

3

5

5

12

9

5

i-5

25

15

15

25

12

5

6

3

2

8

0

9

12

3

10

1-5

24

24

16

22

23

2

4

5

4

5

5

9

12

5

3

28

15

20

18

24

2

4

5

6

2

0

3

10

6

4

26

21

25

25

21

4

5

3

4

5

1

11

5

2

5

•5

23

18

19

26

25

5

4

6

4

3

3

5

3

1

3

27

20

15

20

15

1

7

8

5

5

2

9

6

5

10

25

1C

19

21

27

4

5

8

4

1

2

3

7

6

3

24

18

19

18

15

2

5

6

6

13

4

10

4

6

2

3-35

19

25

20

22

16

3

2

3

5

10

9

7

5

4

5

1836.

1837.

of

Mean of the highest range of

Mean of the highest range of

or

Thermometer at noon, for

Thermometer at noon, for

. 82-25°

12 months, 83°

12 months . . . 82-16°

of

Mean of the lowest range of

Mean of the lowest range of

or

Thermometer at noon, for

Thermometer at noon, for

. 70-33

12 months, 70

12 months 70

at

Mean temp, for 12 months, at

Mean temp, for 12 months, at

. 76-25

noon, 77-13

noon, 75-52

2 }

Fair days in 12 months, 264 }

Fair days in 12 months, 243 i

52 ( 365

Cloudy do. do. 49 V 366

Cloudy do. do. 64 \ 365

31)

Rainy do. do. 53 }

Rainy do. do. 58 }

MPERATURE.

FAIR DAYS.

CLOUDY DAYS.

RAINY DAYS.

1840.

1841.

1838.

1839.

1840.

1841.

1838.

1839.

1840.

1841.

1838.

1839.

1840.

1841

82-64o

83-35°

12

16

20

16

10

6

6

2

9

9

5

13

84-72

81-32

17

16

26

16

6

11

1

6

5

8

2

6

78-77

84-30

17

13

13

30

7

12

10

1

7

6

8

0

77-93

80-5

18

20

24

17

7

2

6

8

5

8

0

5

76-22

74-84

22

18

18

17

5

9

8

8

4

4

5

6

72-37

71-26

25

25

21

25

2

3

6

2

3

2

3

3

71-48

71-29

22

23

19

17

4

2

6

10

5

6

6

4

71-38

72-09

20

24

19

25

4

4

5

4

7

3

7

2

76-16

74-47

25

15

19

19

3

6

7

9

2

9

4

2

79-77

75-67

18

15

20

12

8

6

4

10

5

10

7

9

78-76

77-26

14

17

13

8

9

7

4

12

7

6

13 10

82-80

77-24

18

17

19

8

5

6

4

6

8

8

8

17

1840.

1841.

of the highest range of Thermo-
ter at noon, for 12 months, . . .
. of the lowest range of Thermo-
ter at noon, for 12 months, . . .
L temp, for 12 months, at noon,
days in 12 months, 231 )
[y do. do. 67 \ 366
f do. do. 68 >

82-08°

73-25

77-75

Mean of the highest range of Thermo-
meter at noon, for 12 months, . . .
Mean of the lowest range of Thermo-
meter at noon, for 12 months, . . .
Mean temp, for 12 months, at noon, . .
Fair days in 12 months, 210 i
Cloudy do. do. 78V 365

Rainy do. do. 77 )

81-33

72-58
76-92

noon, from
ars,77-01 =

Average fair days, from
1833 to '41, 9 years, 237

Cloudy days, from 1833
to '41, 9 years, 60

Rainy days, from 1833
to '41, 9 years, 67

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VI

380

APPENDIX.

XVII I. C O N T I N U E D.

AMERICAN ARRIVALS AT RIO DE JANEIRO.

1839.

1840.

1841.

From the United States,

92

97

119

From Europe, - - - -

31

27

39

From Whaling, -

26

13

20

]49

137

178

Vessels of War, ...

10

14

18

Total, ....

159

151

196

XIX.

TO THE OFFICERS OF THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

THE undersigned, in calling the attention of the officers of the
squadron under his command, to their personal appearance, would
observe, that in his opinion the example of some of them in this
respect is not such as should indicate to the crews of the different
vessels composing the squadron, the necessity which exists of the
greatest attention being paid to their personal appearance and clean-
liness, in conformity to the internal rules and regulations of the
squadron.

lie has not been aware until recently of the extent to which the
wearing of mustachios has been carried : they in most cases give a
notoriety and appearance of want of attention to neatness, &c., which
renders it impossible for the officer, with any degree of consistency, to
carry the inspection of their men or divisions to that extent, which he
considers absolutely necessary for the health and comfort of all.

He believes it only necessary to appeal to the good sense of the
officers in order to remedy their appearance, and feels assured that
upon reflection they will see the like necessity and importance of pre-
serving, in the first national expedition, the usual appearance, habits,
and customs of their own country.

Very respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,

At Sea, October 8th, 1838.

APPENDIX. 381

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, November 1st, 1838.
SIR, —

As some misapprehension may exist in relation to the use for which
the reading-room, or forward cabin, is intended, I think it as well to
briefly state my views respecting its uses, in which I have no doubt all
will see the propriety of concurring.

I view it then in the same light as the ship's library, or a place where
every one may usefully employ himself, free from the usual interruption
of the ship's duty, and not subject to other practices, which would cause
interruption in the use of books.

The accommodations, though not large, will with due respect and
consideration for each other's views, be found to be ample, and will
naturally prevent any one from appropriating exclusively its small
conveniences to himself; or using its table for writing (intended for
books and the facility of reference to them), as there no doubt exists
sufficient room in the several apartments appropriated to the different
officers for that purpose, without incommoding any one.

You will therefore keep its use confined to these purposes, and not
permit the issue of slops, &c., to take place in it.

Respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring1 Expedition.
LIEUT. THOMAS T. CRAVEN,

U. S. Ship Vincennes.

ORDERS FOR THE VINCENNES.

THE following arrangements in regard to the scientific duties of the
officers of this ship, will be adopted when in port.

Lieutenant Craven will aid the scientific corps as Assistant Natu-
ralist, when his duties on board can be dispensed with.

Lieutenant Carr will be engaged with me in scientific duty at the
observatory.

Lieutenant Johnson will perform the duty of first-lieutenant during
the absence of Lieutenant Craven, and will be excused from night
watch when so engaged. The officers will be divided into watches
for duty on board ship, at the observatory, and elsewhere, as follows :

1st watch, Lieutenant Johnson and Passed Midshipman Totten.

2d watch, Lieutenant Alden and Passed Midshipman Reynolds.

3d watch, Lieutenant Maury and Passed Midshipman May.

VOL. i. 48

382 APPENDIX.

4th watch, Acting-Master North and Passed Midshipman Sandford.

A relief watch will at all times be on board ship for such duty as
may be required.

Mr. Elliott, chaplain, supernumerary for such duty as may be
required.

Midshipmen Clark and Elliott, will be excused from watch for boats
and other duty.

Acting-Surgeon Gilchrist will be associated with Mr. Rich, Botanist
of the Expedition.

Assistant-Surgeon Fox, as assistant to T. R. Peale, Naturalist, and
Mr. Dana, Mineralogist.

Assistant-Surgeon Whittle as assistant to Dr. Pickering.

The officers attached to the tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish, will
be associated in scientific duties with the first and fourth watches of
the Vincennes and Peacock.

The arrangements heretofore made in regard to the duties of the
medical officers will be complied with until further orders, which will
enable them to devote much of their time to the scientific duties ; and
it is desirable that they should receive from the scientific gentlemen
with whom they are associated, every facility which can be afforded
them, and every opportunity of being useful.

As the object of this association of duty is to extend as far as
possible the operations of the Expedition, it is earnestly requested that
the gentlemen composing the scientific corps will on all occasions
avail themselves of the services of those officers who by this order
have been associated with them, and of all others who may (when
their duties and time will permit) be desirous of aiding or advancing
the interests of the Expedition, by making collections, drawings, &c.,
and that the utmost harmony, good feeling, and concert of action may
exist at all times, as nothing will so much tend to promote the useful-
ness, and be the means of extending the objects of the Expedition.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

IT. S. Ship Vincennes,

November 20th, 1838.

ORDERS FOR THE PEACOCK.

THE officers to be divided into watches, the same as the Vincennes,
and a relief watch to be always on board.

Midshipmen Henry and Hudson excused from watch for boat
duty, &c.

APPENDIX. 383

Dr. Sickles associated with Mr. Couthouy for scientific duty. Dr.
Holmes also to aid in scientific duty.

The orders in regard to the medical officers the same as the
Vincennes.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, November 21st, 1838.

ORDERS FOR THE PORPOISE.

THE following arrangements in regard to the scientific duties of the
officers of the Porpoise when in port, will be adopted.

The officers will be divided into watches, to perform duty on board,
at the observatory, and elsewhere, as follows :

1st watch, Lieutenant Claiborne and Passed Midshipman Blunt.
2d watch, Lieutenant Hartstein and Acting Midshipman Baldwin.
3d watch, Lieutenant Dale and Passed Midshipman Colvocoressis.
Lieutenant Dale in sketching when his other duties will permit.
Dr. Guillou on duty as Assistant Naturalist, and will make himself
useful in all the departments.

The order for medical officers the same as the Vincennes.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, November 21st, 1838.

ORDERS FOR THE RELIEF.

THE watch officers to be divided the same as on board the Porpoise,
as follows :

1st watch, Lieutenant Pinkney and Passed Midshipman Davis.

2d watch, Lieutenant Case and Passed Midshipman Cummings.

3d watch, Lieutenant Underwood and Passed Midshipman Sinclair.

Lieutenant Case, when his other duties will permit, will assist in the
naturalist department.

Dr. Palmer will be attached to the scientific department, as assistant
to Dr. Pickering and Mr. Couthouy, Naturalist.

Midshipman Blair will be excused from watch for boat duty.

Lieutenant Underwood will be employed in sketching, &c.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, November 21st, 1838.

A P P E N I) I X.

XX.

U. S. Ship Vinccnncs,

Rio do Janeiro, December 15th, 1838.

SIR, —

You will proceed and make a survey of a shoal said to exist oft'
Cape St. Thomas, about sixty miles north of Cape Frio, with the
Peacock, Porpoise,* Sea-Gull, and Flying-Fish, which are placed
under your command for the duty.

The shoal is supposed to be about twenty miles east-half-north from
Cape St. Thomas.

In surveying it, as far as I am able to judge of its locality, I would
recommend the following mode to be pursued, viz. :

On your arrival at or near its supposed locality, anchor your four
vessels at convenient distances from each other, within a suitable
distance for admeasurement by sound. Here ascertain your latitude
and longitude accurately, measure your distance between all the vessels
by sound, firing guns in succession, noting the elapse of time between
the flash and report ; then, or before, measure the azimuth between
each vessel and the sun, and proceed with your boats to sound,
radiating from each vessel on the several points of bearings: the
position of your boats may be accurately ascertained by the angles on
any three of the vessels, and the soundings obtained can at once be
inserted on the skeleton chart prepared for the occasion.

You will, while at anchor, heave the current log every hour, and
notice the direction by the head of your ship. After you have satis-
factorily explored the ground that your vessel may have anchored on,
you will then, in all probability, know the direction in which the
shoalest water lies from you, and by shifting the anchorage of each
vessel in succession toward that direction, you will occupy new
ground, when the same operation of measuring bases by sound, and
taking azimuths, will be gone through with, and then you may
approach the position without any danger, as your chart will be
constructed as you proceed.

Lieutenant Johnson has been ordered to the Porpoise to superintend
her movements in regard to this survey, and Lieutenant Alden to your
ship, in whose information, as respects the above mode of proceeding,
you may rely.

Mr. Knox of the Flying-Fish, is also apt at this work. T have

* The Porpoise was not on this duty ; these orders were countermanded, as she could not
be prepared for sea in season.

APPENDIX.

385

ordered Mr. May to assist him in this cruise, and Mr. Eld, of your
ship, to assist in the duties on board the Sea-Gull.

After you have obtained the necessary information in regard to
this shoal, (should you be so fortunate as to find it,) you will return to
Cape Frio, and from thence measure the distance from this harbour by
sound.

The most efficient mode of doing this, I conceive as follows, viz.
After getting the light in sight, anchor the three vessels so as to form
a triangle, and take their azimuthal bearings from the sun, measuring
by sound the distance between the vessels, which will give you the
bases of the triangle; then measure the angles from on board the
vessels, with the light-house, and this will give you data to calculate
its distance and bearing ; thence proceed west, keeping the vessels in
range, and as soon as you get their distance and bearing, change their
positions alternately.

Very respectfully,

CHAIILES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
CAPTAIN WILLIAM L. HUDSON,

Commanding U. S. Ship Peacock.

XXI.

POPULATION OF BRAZIL,

Estimated by the numbers of houses furnished by the returns of Elections for Deputies in
1833, to the National Legislature, calculating each habitation as containing five free
people, and the slaves as being two-fifths of the whole population.

PROVINCES.

NO. OF HOUSES.

INHABITANTS.

PARA ........

24,500

102,500

MARANHAO ..-..-.

30,600

153,000

PIANHY ........

11,300

56,500

35,900

179,500

RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE .....

12,400

62,000

TTT_ .

Q4 700

123,500

PERNAMBUCO .----..

« *, * " J
59,900

299,500

ALAGOAS »'..»...

33,300

166,500

SERGISSE .......

20,700

103,500

BAHIA ........

87,600

438,000

CUIABA ........

5,600

28,000

GOYAS, SLAVES, (17,375) .....

13,900

69,500

MINAS GERAES, (24,600) .....

120,800

604,000

ESPIRITO SANTO

7,700

38,500

RIO DE JANEIRO, (117,600) ....

58,800

294,000

ST PAULO, (94,166)

56,100

282,500

ST. CATHERINE'S ......

9,800

47,000

RIO GRANDE DO SOL, (20,500) - ...

16,400

82,000

X

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5

RESULTS OF THE MEASUREMENT OF A BASE LINE BY

POSITION OF VESSELS.

ASTRONOMICAL
BEARING.

DISTANCES.

DIFF. OF LAT.

DIFF. 0

From Light-house to Flying-Fish's 1st,

S.85°07' W.

19514-40 feet.

1661-2 S.

2064

" Flying-Fish's 1st to Sea-Gull's 1st,

87 45

7009-34

275-2

760

" Sea-Gull's 1st to Peacock's 2d,

85 31

15475-17

1209-7

1675

" Peacock's 2d to Flying-Fish's 2d,

87 46

9524-40

371-1

1033

" Flying-Fish's 2d to Sea-Gull's 2d,

85 16

12778-39

1054-4

13831

" Sea-Gull's 2d to Peacock's 3d,

85 52

13426-98

967-7

1454

" Peacock's 3d to Flying-Fish's 3d,

85 27

10525-39

834-9

1139i

" Flying-Fish's 3d to Sea-Gull's 3d,

86 04

13381-47

918-1

1 lot!

" Sea-Gull's 3d to Peacock's 4th,

86 13

20845-96

1375-5

22591

" Peacock's 4th to Flying-Fish's 4th,

85 12

12821-91

1073-0

1387

" Flying-Fish's 4th to Sea-Gull's 4th,

84 43

10468-50

964-9

1132

" Sea-Gull's 4th to Peacock's 5th,

26 33

16055-49

966-2

1741

" Peacock's 5th to Flying-Fish's 5th,

85 48

12801-15

937-5

138ft

" Flying-Fish's 5th to Sea-Gull's 5th,

85 10

8056-19

678-8

872

" Sea-Gull's 5th to Peacock's 6th,

84 41

18524-69

1716-5

2004

* The Peacock

Meridian Distances between Cape Frio Light-house and Enxados Island.
By Sound, ... 1° 08' 52" 8'"
By Chronometer, . 1 09 48 0

Ti:i:X CAPE FRIO LIGHT-HOUSE AND ENXADOS ISLAND.

j POSITION OF VESSELS.

ASTRONOMICAL
BEARING.

DISTANCES.

DIFF. OF LAX.

DIFF. OF LON.

lacock's 6th to Flying-Fish's 6th,

S. 87° 04' W.

12914-94 feet.

660-9 S.

14012-0 W.

Ling-Fish's 6th to Peacock's 7th,

87 12

20242-51

988-9

21965-0

peacock's 7th to Sea-Gull's 7th,

87 44

20993-89

830-3

22889-0

la-Gull's 7th to Flying-Fish's 7th,

89 54

15076-91

26-3

16379-0

Ling-Fish's 7th to Sea-Gull's 8th,

89 46

13654-56

55-6

14833-0

la-Gull's 8th to Peacock's 8th,

N. 89 46

19166-72

78-1 N.

20829-0

lacock's 8th to Flying-Fish's 8th,

89 58

21619-72

12-6

23487-0

lying-Fish's 8th to Sea-Gull's 9th,

89 52

16044-11

37-3

17429-0

fa-Gull's 9th to Peacock's 9th,

89 52

16157-90

37-6

17553-0

lacock's 9th to Flying-Fish's 9th,

25 00

18820-54

1705-7

8639-0

lying-Fish's 9th to Sea-Gull's 10th,

26 00

14030-06

12610-0

6678-0

la-Gull's 10th to Peacock's 10th,

25 05

15076-91

13655-0

6938-0

lacock's 10th to Flying-Fish's 10th

24 45

10877-13

1878-3

4942-0

ting-Fish's 10th to Sea-Gull's llth

24 05

2695-70

2461-4

1194-0

la-Gull's llth to Enxados Island,

S. 84 34

2726-00

259-1 S.

2956-0

o800l-5 N.

418194-5 W.

i-Gull's position.

Longitude of Enxados Is
Difference of Lon

and, 43° 09'

06" 67'"
52 8

gitude, .... 1 08

Longitude of Cape Frio Light-house, 42° 00' 13" 87'"

APPENDIX. 391

XXIV.

SAILING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE RELIEF, NOT TO BE OPENED UNTIL AT SEA.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Rio de Janeiro, December 1 8th, 1838.

SIR, —

You will sail from this harbour, and follow strictly the following
instructions, which are intended for your government.

1st. You will proceed with all possible despatch with the Relief,
under your command, to Orange Harbour, arid there await my
arrival.

2d. Orange Harbour is situated in latitude 55° 30' 50" S., and
longitude 68° 00' 23" W.

3d. You will pursue such a course as will take you on soundings
about latitude 45° S., and continue on them all the way to Terra del
Fuego, as near as you can to the land, westerly winds prevailing most
of the way.

4th. You will pass through the Straits of Le Maire, and double close
around the southeast point of Terra del Fuego, keeping in with the
land until you are up with the Hermit Islands ; you will then have
your port open to you clear of hidden dangers.

5th. A plan of Orange Harbour is among your Book of Charts, No.
1079.

6th. On your arrival there, you will set up tide-staves, similar to
those now in use by us on the Island of Enxados, and keep an hourly
register of the rise and fall.

7th. At Orange Harbour, you will employ your crew in cutting fifty
cords of the best wood, and deposit the same at the most convenient
landings, for the use of the squadron on its arrival.

8th. You will fill up with water, and have your stores and provisions
ready for any delivery.

9th. Your anchorage will be within Burnt Island, where you will
establish the light sent you, which you will place in charge of some
careful person, to be kept lighted during the night. In the event of
its failing, you will keep a bonfire on shore, as a night-signal for the
squadron.

10th. You will carefully preserve all the soundings brought up by
your deep-sea lead, in papers, with the positions where they were had.

llth. On your route you will make repeated trials of the current,
and while on soundings you will anchor your boat with the deep-sea

392 APPENDIX.

lead, making use of the current-log. Your acting-master has been
shown the one in use on board this ship.

12th. You will expose two thermometers, one having its bulb
covered with black wool, daily to the influence of the sun, and note
the difference in your journal ; also that which is shown in the shade ;
and you will continue all observations as heretofore.

13th. It is believed that the Relief will not require any repairs;
should, however, any be necessary, you will complete them at once.

14th. You will avoid being blown off to the eastward by all the
means in your power ; running with the coast, and anchoring during
the continuance of westerly gales under the land, is recommended. I
am not aware that you have any dangers to fear, except kelp, which
you may run boldly towards, but avoid entering.

15th. You will afford Mr. Rich, the Botanist, every facility in
collecting specimens, &c., and, if possible, seek out places where a
quantity of wild celery-grass may be collected for the crews on our
arrival.

16th. You will issue to such of the crew as may require the warm
urticles of clothing supplied for the Exploring Expedition, charging
them at the usual slop prices, which will be remitted at the end of the
cruise, on the good behaviour of the men.

17th. You will give particular attention to the health and comfort
of the officers and crew.

Wishing you a safe and speedy passage to your port of destination,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
I/iKt'T. COM. A. K. LONG,

U. S. Ship Relief;

U. S. Ship Vinccnncs,

Off Rio dc Janeiro, Jan. 5th, 1839.
SIR, —

In the event of our separating, which, however, you will avoid by
all possible exertions, you will proceed with all despatch to Orange
Harbour, which is situated in latitude 55° 30' 50" S., longitude 68° 00'
23" W., taking such a course as will put you on soundings in about
latitude 45° S. ; continue on them all the way to Terra del Fuego,
keeping close in with the land, as westerly gales prevail.

You will pass through the Straits of Le Maire, and double close
round the southeast point of Terra del Fuego, until you are up with
the Hermit Islands ; you will then have your port open to you, clear
of hidden dangers.

APPENDIX.

You will avoid being blown oft' to the eastward by all the means in
your power, running in with the coast, and anchoring during the
westerly gales. I am not aware that you have any dangers to fear
except kelp, which you may run boldly for, but avoid entering.

On your arrival at Orange Harbour, you will find me or instructions,
or you will await my arrival there.

You will issue to such of the crew as require them, the articles of
warm clothing supplied for the Exploring Expedition, charging them
at the usual slop prices, to be remitted them at the end of the cruise,
on their good behaviour.

You will give particular attention to the cleanliness of your ship,
and the health of the officers and crew.

A chart of Orange Harbour will be found in your Book of Charts,
No. 1079.

Lieutenant-Commandant Long, has been directed to keep the light
burning during the night, on Burnt Island, as a signal to the squadron.
I send you herewith the rates of your chronometers.

Very respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding1 Exploring Expedition.
To CAPTAIN WILLIAM L. HUDSON,

Peacock.
LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT C. RINGGOLD,

Porpoise.
PASSED MIDSHIPMAN J. W. E. REID,

Sea-Gull.
PASSED MIDSHIPMAN S. R. KNOX,

Flying-Fish.

GENERAL ORDERS.

As difficulties frequently occur in regard to the dates of the log-
books and journals of the squadron under my command, owing to the
difference between civil and nautical time ; hereafter, all the log-books
and journals will be kept in civil time, commencing at twelve o'clock
this day, being the meridian of the 20th of February, 1839.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Orange Harbour, Feb. 20th, 1839.

394 APPENDIX.

XXV.

U. S. Ship Vinccnncs,
Orange Harbour, Terra del Fuego,
February 22d, 1839.

SIR, —

Although I am aware of the lateness of the season, and the risk to
be incurred in attempting to make any explorations within the Antarctic
Circle ; yet I am of the opinion that there are many advantages to be
derived from it, that will prove of incalculable benefit in any future
attempts we may hereafter make at the proper season.

You will, therefore, with the Peacock and tender Flying-Fish, make
the attempt to carry out the following instructions.

Isl. On sailing from this anchorage, you will proceed as far as the
Ne Plus Ultra of Captain Cook, in longitude 105° W., and from thence
you will extend your researches as far to the southward and eastward
as you can reach, without rendering yourself liable to be closed in by
the ice.

2d. You will carefully note your daily positions on the skeleton
chart herewith, and trace upon it, by astronomical and tangent obser-
vations, (not by compass,) all the ice you may fall in with during the
cruise, whether island or field-ice.

3d. You will navigate to the southward, and eastward until you
reach the western side of Palmer's or Graham's Land.

4th. It is believed that the latter part of the summer will afford you
an opportunity of penetrating here farther south than has yet been
done, and possibly meet an extension of Palmer's Land, more to the
westward : if you should succeed, you will trace it to the eastward,
and return by the southern and eastern side of it, to this anchorage,
thus circumnavigating this land, unless you should receive further
information from me.

5th. Herewith you will receive a dipping and intensity needle, with
which you will make observations on any floe of ice that may be
accessible.

6th. In your progress to the eastward from Cook's Ne Plus Ultra,
105° W., you will endeavour to get more and more to the southward,
and to pass to the southward of the two small islands called Peter 1.
and Alexander, (the farthest land south discovered by the Russians in
1821,) and then fall in with what Briscoe denominated Graham's or
Palmer's Land, (its proper American name.) I am of the opinion that
it extends much farther to the southward and westward than where
Briscoe saw the Adelaide Mountains, and that the land stretches or

APPENDIX. 395

trends to the west. This will be a very important discovery, and the
lateness of the season is very advantageous for the exploration, if the
summer should have proved an open one. My reason for believing
in the extension of this land is, that such large quantities of ice-islands,
which are frequently drifted to the north and west of Cape Horn, must
have some land to form on, and we are aware that all the ice formed
about the South Shetlands goes to the eastward.

7th. You must endeavour to reach the southward of Peter J. and
Alexander I. Islands, or south of the Russian track.

8th. You will fill up the skeleton chart as you progress, and treat
the main ice and ice-islands as if they were land, by inserting them on
it, which will be an important addition to our knowledge, if we only
obtain the line of ice in those seas ; it does not appear ever to have
been done by southern navigators accurately ; had it been so, our task
would have been more easy.

9th. I should think the winds from the west to the east will be so as
to enable you to choose positions to shield your ship under the lee of
the icy shore (if I may be allowed the expression).

10th. In the event of your reaching the main land, or a channel
leading to it, if one offers, you will despatch the Flying-Fish, with
such officers as you may think fit, to make the recognizance of it, if
time should not allow a full survey.

llth. It is desirable that the extent and circumference of any islands
which you may fall in with be ascertained, with their general character
and productions, if any ; specimens of rocks and sketches of their strati-
fication will, if possible be taken. The islands of ice frequently show
appearances of stratifications, with earth and rocks attached to them.
Any thing gained from them will be interesting and valuable, with a
particular notice whether the ice had been much worn away under
them.

12th. The aurora australis has not been often seen; it is said to
have been seen by Captain Cook near his Ne Plus Ultra, where you
will commence. You will notice the extent and height of the ice, &c.,
and sketch, if possible, any remarkable refraction, with a description
which will render it clear.

13th. You will note the observations of the thermometer in the sun
and shade ; also the temperature of the sea at such depths as you may
judge best, with the sounding apparatus sent you.

14th. After having run to Palmer's Land, and not finding an opening
or land, you will return to this harbour direct, where you will find this
ship ; and you will despatch the Flying-Fish to the harbour of Decep-
tion Island for information from me, which will, if possible, be left in a

396 APPENDIX.

bottle, enclosed in a heap of stones (a sailor's grave), on the right-hand
side of that harbour, the entrance being at the east; and you will
direct the officer in charge of the Flying-Fish to remain there, if he
should hear nothing of me, as long as possible, even until the 1st of
May, when she will proceed with all despatch to this port.

15th. Should you be shut up or detained by ice, which of course
you will avoid by all possible means, you will, if possible, communicate
to me at Deception Island, as in case you are out of time, you may
rely on my sending there to hear from you, and afford any aid, as soon
as the season will permit, to which place your boats or the tender can
be navigated. It is my present intention, after surveying the southeast
shore of Palmer's Land, to touch at Deception Island on my return
north, and obtain or leave information as to our progress, in a bottle,
as above described.

16th. You will, of course, give the most particular attention to the
health and comfort of the officers and crews of your command, and
the most economical expenditure of stores and provisions, — of which
you have as much as you can stow, including a large supply of anti-
scorbutics, preserved meats, &c.

17th. Should it in your opinion be found at any time during the
cruise impracticable to carry into effect these orders, and you should
be of opinion also that a further attempt south during the present
season would be unavailing, owing to bad weather or obstructions,
you will, on arriving at such conclusions, proceed direct to Valparaiso,
and await further orders, making all necessary arrangements there in
regard to a supply of provisions, &c., for the squadron. In such an
event, you will immediately despatch the Flying-Fish to this anchorage
for further orders, which, if we have left, will be found in a pile of
stones on the summit of Burnt Island, near the tent and lighthouse ; in
the absence of which, however, she will proceed to Valparaiso for
further orders.

In conclusion, I cannot express to you how much I feel for the safety
of yourself, officers, and crews, on this first exploration you are about
to make, and how deep an interest and anxiety I shall feel for you ;
that you may meet with all the success I wish for, and that we may
rendezvous again to carry out this great national enterprise, is the
fervent prayer of your attached friend,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

CAPTAIN WM. L. HUDSON,

Peacock.

APPENDIX. 397

XXVI.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
Orange Harbour, Terra del Fuego,

February 22d, 1 839.
SIR, —

The Sea-Gull, placed under your charge, will be attached to the
Porpoise. I cannot impress upon you too strongly the necessity of
keeping company, as the safety of the crews of both vessels may
otherwise be hazarded ; you will, therefore, use every means in your
power to prevent a separation.

1st. You will keep a strict daily journal of every occurrence relative
to your co-operations with the Porpoise.

2d. A skeleton chart will be furnished you, comprising the latitudes
and longitudes in which you will cruise, upon which chart an accurate
track will be laid down of her route ; also the position of all land,
islands of ice, &c., which may be observed. Astronomical bearings,
when the weather will permit, will be preferable for this purpose.

3d. You will enter also in your journal, the variation of the compass,
morning and evening ; sketches of refractions, and minute observations
of all phenomena that may be seen ; also, sketches of stratifications of
ice, temperature of the water on the weather and lee sides of ice-
islands, &c. ; the form and direction of currents, and the apparent
formation of the ice ; also the collection and preservation of any
specimens of earth or stones that may be discovered on the ice, and
the appearance of any halos, auroras australis, &c.

4th. In the event of parting company, you will rendezvous, first, for
the Porpoise, off Cape Melville, George's Island, in latitude 61° 55' S.,
longitude 58° W., to remain two days ; and, secondly, at and near the
coast of the east side of Palmer's Land. You will, in such a case of
separation, avoid by all possible means being shut up in the ice, and
will, on the probability of such an event, proceed at once to Deception
Island, which harbour you will if possible enter, and deposit in a
grave formed of stones, on the north side of the entrance of the
harbour, information relative to your parting company, &c. ; and you
will remain there for orders as long as your safety will allow, and
while there you will hunt for and examine a self-registering thermo-
meter, left there some time since on the point forming the cove.

5th. You will give particular attention to the health and comfort of

398 APPENDIX.

all on board, and you have an ample supply of provisions, clothing,
preserved meats, antiscorbutics, &c.

Wishing you a safe and successful cruise,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUTENANT R. E. JOHNSON,

In charge of Tender Sea-Gull.

XXVII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,
Orange Harbour, Terra del Fuego,

February 22d, 1839.
SIR,—

The tender Flying-Fish, placed under your charge, will be attached
to the Peacock, and under the orders of Captain Hudson, during the
present cruise.

1st. I cannot impress too strongly on your mind the necessity of
avoiding, under any circumstances, parting company with the Peacock,
as the safety of all on board that vessel may be hazarded thereby;
every means will be taken therefore to prevent a separation.

2d. You will keep a strict daily journal of every occurrence relative
to your co-operations with that vessel.

3d. A skeleton chart is furnished you, comprising the latitudes and
longitudes in which you will cruise, and on which chart an accurate
track must be laid down of the route, daily; also, the positions of all
land, islands of ice, &c., which may be observed. Astronomical bear-
ings, when the weather will permit, are preferable for this purpose.

4th. You will also enter on your journal, the variation of the
compass, morning and evening; sketches of refractions, and minute
observations of all phenomena that may be seen ; also, sketches of the
stratification of ice, temperature of the water on the weather and lee
sides of the islands, the form and direction of currents, and the
apparent formation of the ice ; also, the collection and preservation of
any stones, specimens of earth, &c., that may be discovered on the
ice, and the appearance of any halos, auroras australis, &c.

5th. If you should unfortunately be separated from the Peacock, the
following rendezvous are fixed by Captain Hudson, for meeting again,
if possible :

1st. Latitude 62° S., longitude 80° W., to wait Haifa day.
2d. " 64° " 90° " one "

3d. " 65° " 100° " " "

4th. " 66° " 105^

APPENDIX. 399

And you will seek the nearest to the above named, coasting along
the ice as near as possible, and locating your position on your skeleton
chart.

6th. The Peacock will pursue the route laid down in the orders to
Captain Hudson, of which the following is an extract, and will give
you an idea of the intended cruise, viz. :

" On sailing from here you will proceed to longitude 105° W.
(Cook's Ne Plus Ultra) ; from thence extend your researches as far to
the southward and eastward as you can reach, without rendering
yourself liable to be closed in by the ice.

"You will then navigate to the southward and eastward, until you
reach the western side of Palmer's or Graham's Land, as it is called
on the charts.

" It is believed that the latter part of the season will afford you an
opportunity of penetrating here further south than has yet been done,
and possibly meet an extension of Palmer's Land, more to the west-
ward ; if you should succeed, you will trace it to the eastward, and
return by the southward and eastward side of it to this anchorage,
(thus circumnavigating this land,) unless you should receive any infor-
mation from me previously.

" In your progress from Cook's Ne Plus Ultra, of longitude 105° W.,
you will endeavour to get more and more to the southward, if possible,
and reach to the southward of the small islands of Peter I., and
Alexander, the farthest land south discovered by the Russians in 1821,
and fall in with what Briscoe has denominated Graham's or Palmer's
Land, (its proper American name.) I am of the opinion that it
extends much farther to the southward and westward than where
Briscoe saw the Adelaide Mountains.

" Your endeavours must be to get to the south of Peter I., and
Alexander Islands, or south of the Russian track."

7th. In the event of your separating from the Peacock, and not
joining her again, which, however, is not probable, you will coast
along the ice, agreeably to directions, as far as it may be prudent and
safe, and proceed to Deception Island for information in regard to us,
which if there, will be found in a sailor's grave, at the north of the
entrance of the harbour, where you will deposit a communication;
and in the absence of other orders, you will proceed to this anchorage,
where you will find me, or orders on the summit of Burnt Island, at
the flagstaff; in the absence of which, or any of the squadron, you
will proceed direct to Valparaiso.

8th. You will attend particularly to the health and comfort of all
on board ; you have ten months' provisions on board for the crew, and

400 APPENDIX.

an ample supply of warm clothing, antiscorbutics, preserved meats,
&c., in the event of detention, which will be expended in the most
judicious manner.

Wishing you a safe and successful cruise,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

P. S. You will, if possible, obtain from Deception Island a self-
registering thermometer, said to have been left some time since on the
point of the cove.

To LIEUT. WM. L. WALKKR,

In charge of Tender Flying-Fish.

XXVIII.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS, FOR BOAT DUTY, SURVEYING, ETC.

IMMEDIATELY after anchoring in position, you will hoist your dis-
tinguishing pennant, keeping it up till every thing is done, such as
distance measured, astronomical bearings taken on one of the vessels,
the angle between her and the others ; also, angles on any thing
remarkable on shore, such as headlands, flag or signal staves, huts,
trees, &c. When ready to change your position, haul down your dis-
tinguishing pennant ; and when ready to measure the base or distance
by sound, which is the first thing to be done after you are in position,
hoist your ensign at the fore; as soon as all the vessels have answered,
you will dip it and fire in a few seconds ; run up the ensign again, and
repeat firing three times.

To communicate the elapsed time to this vessel, hoist the distin-
guishing pennant of the vessel whose distance is to be shown, and
with it the " number" indicating the number of seconds ; the quarter,
half, or three-quarters, may be designated by hoisting the first, second,
and third repeaters under all, thus — the third repeater under No. 18,
would signify eighteen and three-quarters seconds of time. It will be
seen, therefore, that when it is necessary to repeat a number, one of a
similar denomination must be used, as another signification is given to
the repeaters.

The astronomical bearings may be communicated in the following
manner, with the distinguishing pennant of the vessel whose bearing
is to be shown: hoist the "number" indicating the degrees with the

APPENDIX. 401

cornet above, if the bearing be from the north, but under, if from the
south ; then the corresponding numbers for the minutes and seconds ;
with the preparatory pennant, if to the east, or without it, if to the
west, thus : the cornet under 56°, would signify S. 56 ; then 04-26,
would correspond, 04' and 26" W., or, the whole being put together,
would stand, S. 56°, 04' 26" W.

Each officer, before leaving the ship, will see that his boat is fur-
nished with water and provisions for three days for her crew ; that
her oars, spars, and sails are in good order, compass, sextant, spy-glass,
log-line and current-log, leads and lines, grapnel and lines for mooring,
materials for striking a light, lantern, and field-book ; also, that their
watches have been set to ship's time.

The boats will be divided into parties or divisions ; each division
will be under the orders of an officer appointed to take the charge,
who will receive the general instructions for the day, and who will
wear their boat ensigns as a distinguishing mark.

The formula of the field-books will be understood as follows :

At the head of each page the name of the boat and the date will be inserted.
In column 1st. The time of taking the angles.
2d. The soundings, and their nature.
3d. The soundings reduced.

4th. The name of the object and the angle to the left of the observer.
5th. The name of the centre objects only, unless there be three angles
measured ; then, the centre angle will be inserted with both the
centre objects.
6th. The name of the object and the angle to the right of the observer.

Officers are expected to note any observations on the current,
soundings, &c., that they may deem necessary to make the results
less liable to misconstruction, and obviate explanation.

When a line of soundings extends to, or commences at the shore,
the point must be accurately fixed by at least three angles, and the
shore sketched in on both sides for some hundred yards, or to some
well-defined object.

The daily orders must be carried into strict execution ; and .if an
officer does not clearly understand, or perceive any difficulty therein,
he will so state before leaving the vessel.

If a boat should require assistance, she will hoist the blue flag, or
No. 5.

After returning on board, each officer will furnish his commanding
officer with a copy of his day's work, with the soundings reduced to
the standard; a diagram of his boat's track; and, if co-operating with
other boats, their relative positions at each anchorage ; it being under-
212 50

402 APPENDIX.

stood in the diagrams, that the top of the paper will always represent
the north.

In case of night coming on, the vessels will, if their boats have not
joined them, fire a gun and then a rocket, — the first to call attention,
the latter to give the direction ; the rocket will be repeated every
fifteen minutes, and the gun every half hour ; keeping up their night
distinguishing signals till their respective boats have returned ; and
when any boat joins them other than their own, to remain the night
from stress of weather, fog, or any other cause, the vessel will fire two
guns in quick succession.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

February 22d, 1839.

XXIX.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE VINCENNES.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Orange Harbour, Feb. 23d, 1839.

LIEUTENANT CRAVEN will enforce strictly the regulations of the ship.

The following officers are left on board the ship for duty, viz.
Lieutenant Carr; Lieutenant Alden; Purser Waldron ; Chaplain
Elliott ; Acting-Master North ; Passed Midshipmen Totten, Reynolds,
May, and Sandford; Acting Midshipmen Clemson, Thompson, Clarke,
and Elliott : and the four forward officers.

1st. Lieutenant Craven will have the men who have been transferred
temporarily to this ship, stationed and quartered at the guns, dividing
the officers in such divisions that they may be regularly exercised
agreeably to the rules and regulations.

2d. Lieutenant Craven will have all the sails, boats, rigging, and
equipments of every description, overhauled and repaired.

3d. The comfort and health of the crew will claim his particular
attention, the regularity of their meals, and the avoiding unnecessary
exposure to the cold, &c.

4th. The baking of bread, it is desirable should be carried into
operation, in order that as small a quantity of ship's bread should be
used as possible. For this purpose, the oven is to be erected on the
gun-deck, and which it is anticipated by constant use will be sufficient
for this purpose ; if, however, from any defect, it should prove other-
wise, recourse must be had to serving out flour in lieu of ship's bread.

APPENDIX. 403

5th. Every opportunity must be taken advantage of to supply the
crew with fish, wild celery, &c., and a proportion suffered to visit the
shore when the work and weather will permit, who must return in
proper season, (early in the afternoon, by supper-time,) on board.

6th. The sheet cables will be kept constantly bent, and an anchor-
watch duly observed, night and day ; the three passed midshipmen
and Mr. North, will keep the watches regularly ; and the deck is never
to be left without one of them, and a midshipman.

7th. When his duties will permit, he will employ his time, and that
of the crew, in dredging and fishing, and all specimens will be care-
fully preserved, and drawings made of them.

8th. He will give all the assistance and afford every facility in his
power, to aid the duties confided to Lieutenants Carr and Alden.

Lieutenant Carr will attend to the astronomical and other observa-
tions (including tides) on shore, in which he will be assisted by Dr.
Fox and Chaplain Elliott, so far as the former's duties will permit for
this purpose. The observatory-house is to be set up on shore, and
other arrangements made suitable for the accommodations of them
and ten men, with a boat: this position will be in what is called Forge
Cove, on the weather side, near the anchorage of this ship.

Lieutenant Alden is charged with the survey and examination of the
northern side of Hermit Islands, and the passages between them and
Terra del Fuego, including Goree Road, and the two small islands
between the two. All kelp that he may discover is to examined ; also
the anchorage under Lenox and New Islands ; and to make a careful
examination of all other places that may seem to offer security for ves-
sels from the prevailing winds; making notes and taking bearings that
may serve for directions for vessels seeking shelter. Also the coast
between False Cape Horn and Weddell Cape, which is to the west-
ward of this harbour, being the parts of this coast that have not been
sufficiently examined by Captain King.

He will be accompanied by a passed midshipman on this duty : the
launch is to be fitted with her deck, sails, &c., with a crew of ten men,
and provisions, among which are included preserved meats, &c., for
twenty days, and a small whale-boat (the Fox), or another, if deemed
more suitable, a tent, and every other convenience that he may deem
requisite to make the service efficient and comfortable to the party.
He will proceed on this duty as soon after my departure as his prepa-
rations and the weather will permit ; and great hopes are entertained
that he will be enabled to complete these arduous and important duties
before my return. This service is considered a hazardous one, and he
will use every endeavour to avoid risking himself, men, and boats, as

404 APPENDIX.

in the event of any loss of the latter, much detention would result to
the after operations of the Expedition.

It is hoped that Lieutenant Alden will be enabled, prior to this duty
being undertaken, to finish the chart of the Rio Negro.

Acting-Master North will assist Lieutenant Carr in the care and
attention to the chronometers, their rate, observations, &c.

It is expected that ,all passed midshipmen, and midshipmen, will
exert themselves in carrying out the various and important duties
confided to them at this anchorage.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition

XXX.

U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,
Orange Harbour, Terra del Fuego,

February 93d, 1 839.
SlR, —

You will receive on board the U. S. Ship Relief, under your com-
mand, the scientific gentlemen, who have been transferred from this ship
and the Peacock, to the Relief, for scientific duty during the present
cruise, and you will afford them every possible facility and accommo-
dation to enable them to make such observations and collections as
may be in their power.

1st. You will proceed without delay to the Straits of Magellan,
entering by the west through Brecknock Passage, Cockburn's Channel,
and Magdalene Sound.

2d. Captain King's chart of the Straits of Magellan may be depended
on for all requisite information ; his book of directions will also give
you a full knowledge of the tides, currents, anchorages, &c. ; I would
recommend its attentive examination.

3d. You will keep full and complete journals of all your observations
as heretofore, in regard to the soundings, temperature, &c.

4th. You will on anchoring set up tide-staves, and enter all observa-
tions agreeably to our formula ; and you will continue your meteoro-
logical journal hourly.

5th. Should you experience any gales or storms, you will note their
progress, from the commencement to the end, with their appearance,
&c. ; and any occurrence of interest will be immediately noted in
your journal.

6th. You will also explore and survey Useless Bay in the Straits of
Magellan, and connect your observations, &c., with Captain King's

APPENDIX. 405

chart; and you will stop at Port Famine, on your way there and
back, and such other safe harbours as may appear to offer advantages
for scientific observations and collections ; and you will return to this
anchorage by the Straits of Le Maire, on or before the 15th of April
next, if possible, where you will find me, or orders on the summit of
Burnt Island ; in the absence of which, you will proceed direct to
Valparaiso.

7th. The north side of the Straits of Magellan affords at all times
good anchorage ; you will keep it close on board.

8th. The period of your absence must not exceed fifty days, if it
can be avoided ; during which time I have no doubt all on board will
exert themselves in making the best possible use of the short space of
time allowed.

9th. You will avoid being blown off to the eastward, as in such
event the Expedition will suffer.

10th. Should any accident happen to the Relief, you will despatch
without delay a boat to this anchorage, under charge of an officer,
through the route you are to enter, pursuing thence Whale-Boat and
Darwin Sounds, through the Beagle Channel, as far as the passage
of Host and Navarin Islands, thence into Nassau Bay to Orange
Harbour.

llth. Mr. Percival has been ordered to the Relief as pilot; he has
been in the Straits of Magellan, and will afford you all the aid in his
power.

You will give particular attention to the health and comfort of all
under your command.

Wishing you a safe and successful cruise,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. A. K. LONG,

U. S. Ship Relief.

XXXI.

U. S. Ship Peacock,
At Sea, lat. 60° S., long. 84° W.,

April 1st, 1839.
SIR, —

After separating from you in Orange Bay on the 25th of February,
I proceeded with the tender Flying-Fish, under the command of
Lieutenant Walker, to carry out your instructions, in making a recog-
nizance south. On the afternoon of the 26th, a few miles to the west-

406 APPENDIX.

ward of the islands of Diego Ramieres, we encountered a gale, in
which we lay-to forty hours, in the course of which we parted from
our little consort, although we had observed all the precautions of
firing guns, burning blue-lights, &c. ; after waiting in vain fourteen
hours, with the hope of again meeting her, we resumed our course for
the first rendezvous I had appointed with Lieutenant Walker, in the
event of separation ; that, as well as some of the others, we were
unable to reach, from a succession of westerly gales and boisterous
weather. To have persevered in working up for them would have
consumed the little time we could yet hope for in the advanced state
of the season, for our further progress south.

Without troubling you with a more minute detail of occurrences,
suffice it to say, that on the llth of March, we fell in with the first
icebergs, in the latitude of 63° 30' S., and longitude of 80° W., after
which time they were our constant companions (and on more than one
occasion very troublesome ones) until we reached the latitude of 68° 08'
8., and longitude of 95° 44' W., where to my great joy, we fell in with
the Flying-Fish, and learned from Lieutenant Walker that he had
passed near most of the appointed rendezvous, and worked down from
105° W., until he reached about 70° S. ; that the whole surface of the
ocean in the direction of south and west presented a perfect and im-
passable barrier of ice ; that he had been completely frozen in for a
short time on the 23d, and the ice forming rapidly around him, when,
fortunately, a breeze of wind rescued him from his perilous situation.
When we fell in with him, he was endeavouring to push his way north.

From the time of our first falling in with icebergs, we had been
daily passing great numbers (as will be shown by the chart), and
encountered on the 17th and part of the 18th, the heaviest gale and
sea we have experienced since we left the United States ; the thermo-
meter in the air at that time standing at 21° of Fahrenheit, and the
water at 28° ; the ship completely coated with ice, every spray thrown
over her freezing, and about her bows and head fairly packed with
it. From the 19th to the 25th, we were without a sight of the sun
or sky, surrounded by ice and icebergs, within the most neighbourly
distance. During a lift of the fog, for a few moments only, on the
morning of the 22d, and by the aid of an ice-blink, we discovered an
extended range of icebergs and field-ice in mass, presenting a perfect
barrier to our further progress south in that direction ; and so com-
pletely were we hemmed in by icebergs on that occasion, that I was
compelled to carry all the canvass on the ship that she would bear,
and work her out into some more open position, through a fog so
dense as to limit our view to two or three times the length of the ship.

APPENDIX. 407

In doing this, we of course kept well prepared, as the different icebergs
popped upon us, to tack, ware, or perform such other evolutions as
were found necessary to avoid them.

On the evening of the 25th of March, having reached the latitude
of 08° 08' S., and then in longitude 95° 44' W., (we had been as far
west as 97° 58',) with the air at 29°, and the water 30° of Fahrenheit,
— having had it much lower, as far back as the 17th, and to the north-
ward of us, where the ship was covered with ice, as well as some
parts of her gun-deck, — the sun having crossed the equator, and made
some northern declination ; the shortness of the days here, and the
little time allowed for running the ship amongst icebergs, without
much hazard, in consequence of fogs and snow-storms ; the miserable
condition of the Peacock for a winter's campaign, in the event of
being frozen in ; the masses of ice we had yet to pass through on our
return, and the nature of my instructions : these circumstances, com-
bined with the report of Lieutenant Walker, premonished me of the
necessity of turning the ship's head towards a more temperate climate.

It required more moral courage to bring my mind to this decision
than I can well describe, for we had at that moment less ice about us
than at any time since we had entered its neighbourhood ; and had I
followed my own inclinations merely, and allowed the promptings of
ambition, or love of praise, to have governed my decisions, regardless
of the future operations of the Expedition, the lives of my officers and
men, and the trust reposed in me by the government, I should indeed
have been unworthy of the trust I hold, and ever felt a consciousness,
that whatever more might have been achieved, by any further attempt
south, at that late season, would have been acquired only by recklessly
hazarding, what an honest conviction of duty to my country, and the
lives intrusted to my care, most decidedly forbade.

We observed the aurora australis for the first time on the night of
the 15th of March, in the latitude of 65° 24' S., and again on the 16th,
18th, and 26th. On the night of the 18th, an arc of pale twilight was
described in the southern quarter, reaching an altitude of twelve
degrees, and extending from southwest to southeast ; both above and '
below the arc were horizontal sheets of dark stratus clouds, and
between the lower strata and the horizon, a suspended bank of mist or
vapour, having all the appearance of a shadow cast on the sky ; rays
of light were continually being thrown out along the whole extent of
the arc, assuming various hues, of pale red, light blue, violet, and
straw-coloured tints ; radiating towards the zenith, and reaching alti-
tudes of from twenty-five to forty-five degrees. These exhibitions
were confined to that particular portion of the horizon, and continued

408 APPENDIX.

through the greater part of the night, which was of the clearest star-
light,— the Southern Cross garnishing the zenith, and the Magellan
clouds showing more distinctly than I had ever before seen them.
The weather, during our cruise south, was very unfavourable for
witnessing any very splendid exhibitions of the aurora ; for, with few
exceptions, during our stay in the Antarctic Circle, we were enveloped
in dense fogs, or found only occasional relief from such falls of snow,
as may fairly be classed with any one of our old-fashioned snow-
storms at home.

The greatest dip obtained, from the experiments with Dolland's
needle, was 78° ; and in the latitude of 68° S., we found nearly four
points easterly variation.

Mr. Peale has been fortunate enough to obtain as specimens, some
new and rare Antarctic birds.

The officers and crew have enjoyed excellent health, been prompt
and efficient in the performance of their respective duties ; and for
their cordial co-operation and aid in carrying out my views, deserve
my warmest thanks ; and I beg you will officially say so in your report
to the Honourable Secretary of the Navy. I herewith enclose you
Lieutenant Walker's report, who certainly deserves, with his officers
and men, great credit for his perseverance.

I have drawn up this report in great haste, for the purpose of
despatching the Flying-Fish to you, with the earliest intelligence, and
shall proceed direct to Valparaiso, to carry out your instructions there.

Very respectfully,
(Signed) WM. L. HUDSON,

Commanding U. S. Ship Peacock.
CAPTAIN CHARLES WII.KES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish,

At Sea, March 26th, 1 839.
SIR, —

In obedience to your order of to-day, I have the honour to report,
that after separating from you on the evening of the 26th ultimo, we
hovc-to under a reefed foresail until near meridian the next day, when,
the gale moderating, we kept off" the wind, with the hope of again
falling in with you; and on the evening of the next day made a large
sail to the northward of us, standing to the westward ; we imme-
diately gave chase, but on coming up, made her out to be a British
merchantman.

We then stood to the westward for our first rendezvous, with strong

APPENDIX. 409

gales from about south-southwest to west-by-north, accompanied by a
very large sea, — vessel labouring much, decks and ways becoming
leaky, but sustained no material damage until the 5th March, when
our jib was badly split.

On the 7th, we reached our first rendezvous, and whilst lying-to
there in a heavy gale, our decks were frequently swept by the sea,
and boats crushed. On the night of the same, the sea boarded us,
ripped off the companion-slide, washed the larboard binnacle from its
cleats and lashings overboard, injured the helmsman and look-out, and
half filled the cabin.

On the evening of the next day, the wind moderating, set the
reefed mainsail, but the vessel sending violently in the old sea, parted
the reef-pendant, and tore the sail badly; took in the second reef and
set. it.

On the 9th, the leakage increasing from stress of weather, were
obliged to move aft all the bread, replacing its weight in the bread-
room by less perishable stores.

On the llth, in the morning, found our new jib nearly gone from the
stay, but one or two hanks remaining ; got it in, and afterwards bent
it with a lacing ; set the reefed mainsail, and lowered the foresail for
repairs ; parted again the reef-pendant of the mainsail ; took the third
reef in it ; finished the repairs of the foresail, set it, and furled the
mainsail.

We were now up with our second rendezvous ; but the wind growing
fresh and the sea rising, the weather thick, with a heavy fall of snow,
and feeling confident I should only lose time by heaving-to, stood on
for the third rendezvous.

I have been particular in stating our losses in sails, as it was one of
the heavy causes of our not reaching the rendezvous sooner. I had
determined on making the old sails last, if possible, for the passage
south, reserving the better suit for our return, when, from the lateness
of the season, I believed we should encounter, if possible, more tem-
pestuous weather ; and owing to the close stowage of the hold, it
would have been no trifling labour under the circumstances to have
broken out for them ; and, furthermore, the old suit would necessarily
have gone below wet, to increase the discomfort of the already com-
fortless condition of the 'tween decks.

The weather continuing much the same, with the addition of rain,
hail, and snow, in almost every watch on the 14th and 15th, we
reached the third rendezvous, where we hove-to for nearly twenty-
four-hours.

I now despaired of again joining you, but nevertheless felt it my

VOL. I. 2K 51

410 APPENDIX.

duty to run over the track laid down for me, and on the 18th reached
the fourth and last rendezvous, having passed the 17th in the vicinity.
We turned our head south for Cook's Ne Plus Ultra, the longitude
alone being specified in the instructions — we continued our course to
the southward, the weather at times very thick, ice-islands becoming
numerous, and occasionally passing a little floating ice, until half-past
11 P.M., of the 19th, when it became so abundant and in such large
masses around us, that we hove-to until daylight, frequently filling to
avoid damage from it.

At four o'clock A. M., we again stood on, but were soon again from
the same causes obliged to heave-to. At this time the water was much
discoloured, and much of the ice also having the appearance of being
but lately detached from land. I got a cast of the lead in one hundred
fathoms, — no bottom. The same discoloration of the water I after-
wards observed always in the vicinity of extensive masses of ice ; and
thought it might possibly be produced by refraction. At eight o'clock
the fog suddenly lifted, and to the amazement of all on deck, disclosed
to us a wall of ice, from fifteen to twenty feet high, extending east and
west as far as the eye could reach, and spreading out into a vast and
seemingly boundless field to the southward, and so close under the lee
that 1 did not venture to ware, but after getting the foresail on her,
stood on to the westward, luffing and bearing away alternately to avoid
a dangerous contact with large detached masses, with which the sea
was filled in all directions. At length finding a place sufficiently clear
to put the helm down, we worked out, with the same risk, to the east-
ward, and at nine o'clock had reached a comparatively smooth sea.
Our latitude at this time about 67° 20' S., longitude 105° W. ; extre-
mities of the field, as far as visible, bearing per compass east-by-north
and southwest-half-west.

It was formed of various sized masses, of all shapes, and shapeless,
and of several colours, a dingy white (if I may say so) prevailing.
Continued to coast along the ice until meridian, when, seeing large ice
ahead, and weather thick, hauled to the northward, and soon ran into
blue water. At 2 p. M., weather clearing a little and sea tolerably
clear, stood to the southward and eastward, and at 3h 20m, saw the ice
in unbroken ranks, bearing from west-by-south to southeast-by-south.
At four, the weather very thick, stood to the northward and eastward ;
water discoloured: at the time of taking the above last bearings, our
view not extending beyond a few miles.

At six o'clock, weather lighting up, discovered field-ice distant
about four miles, bearing from southeast to east per compass, passing
through floating ice. At eight, lowered the foresail, and hove-to head

APPENDIX. 4H

to the northward, winds moderate, with thick rainy weather, but finding
her drifting upon the ice seen before dark, filled and stood to the north-
ward and eastward. At ten, the ice thickening around us, tacked to
the westward. From eleven to midnight saw no ice, but hearing a
crashing sound to the northward, were for some time apprehensive
that we might be embayed ; however, having nothing to direct us in
the gloom, we continued under easy sail our course to the westward.

March 21st, latitude at meridian observed, 68° 41' S., longitude,
chronometer, 103° 34' W. At four o'clock this morning was on deck,
and as soon as the weather cleared a little, hauled up to the north-
ward, to get clear of the field, which we had every reason to suppose
extended far to the eastward and westward of us. After attaining the
position which we felt confident would at least give us an open sea to
the westward, we kept off, gradually feeling our way to the eastward.
At seven, saw the ice extending in broken ranges from south-by-east
to northeast, and the whitish glare on the horizon, (which our expe-
rience had already informed us was an unfailing indication of its
presence,) extending far round to the westward. At eight o'clock,
water discoloured, and many immense ice-islands around us, which
accounted for the broken appearance that had been presented at
seven. The wind being fair, and being able to see a safe distance,
(two or three miles,) I ventured to give her southing, running through
the islands, and at 4 p. M. were making south true, eight knots: this we
continued until eight, when we reefed the mainsail, and lowered the
foresail, with the intention of standing on during the night, flattering
ourselves we should get beyond Cook, before noon ; but, alas, our
hopes were blasted in the bud : it soon became so thick we could not
see at all. Having some floating ice around us, and having seen the
unfailing indication of ice to leeward, before dark, we most reluctantly
hauled over the jib-sheet and hove-to ; the wind soon freshened to a
gale, with a rising sea.

March 22d, latitude, at meridian, about 70° S., longitude 101° 16'
W. From meridian to four, fresh northwesterly winds, with rain, the
weather lighting up at intervals, showing us to be in the midst of
innumerable ice-islands, so closely packed as scarce affording us a
passage between them ; though still lying-to, we were obliged to luff
and bear away for thirteen of them. At four, making short tacks to
the northward and westward, — islands, field, and drift-ice, in every
direction, and close around us.

From four to eight, I was on deck, and after looking round upon the
goodly company, selected the icebergs as my "compagnons du voyage;"
the wind was still fresh, and the weather misty. I stood to the north-

412 APPENDIX.

ward and eastward, and when in doubt, hove-to, to windward of an
island, and drifted down in its wake ; when finding a passage clear,
would again fall back on our own resources, flat sails and a pilot-
boat's bottom.

The weather grew thicker and intensely cold, though the thermo-
meter did not fall below 30° ; I attributed these changes to the ice to
windward, and, believing we were getting into a clear sea, I stepped
below to stick my toes in the stove. I had not been below certainly
five minutes, when the look-out called to me that the fog had lifted,
and that we were surrounded. I jumped on deck, and such was too
truly the case : narrow fields of ice, with narrow passages of water
between, and extending longitudinally in a direction perpendicular to
the wind, formed a complete circle round us, stretching in all direc-
tions as far as the eye could reach, and beyond, icebergs, packed and
floating ice. I did not know at first how I should proceed ; but, after
a careful look round, I ran over to the weather shore of the pond, and
stood along it in search of a passage, that I could not find ; but,
observing at intervals " sutures" in the ice, where it did not appear
firmly formed, I resolved to take advantage of this, and, if possible,
force a passage, feeling it necessary at all hazards, to extricate our-
selves as soon as possible. Having the wind free, I gave her the main-
sheet, and manned it well, and having got about six knots way on her,
kept close to the ice, and when at the proper distance, put the helm
down, hauled the main-sheet forcibly to windward, and let fly the
head-sheets ; this brought her round suddenly, before she had passed
through sufficient water to deaden her way ; the ice cracked, we
slipped over, or brushed through, and before eight o'clock I had got
into a tolerably clear sea. The weather again growing thick, the
wind freshening, and sea getting up, fatigued with labour and anxiety,
we hove-to, under the foresail with the bonnet off; and I believe all
must have returned thanks to Heaven for their deliverance.

From eight to meridian, fresh gales and weather very thick, with
innumerable ice-islands, which we frequently passed at a dangerous
proximity, owing to their number, and our limited vision, — the sea
breaking on them with the roar of thunder, and to the height of eighty
to one hundred feet ; I do not believe a ship could have passed these
dangers ; frequently we felt cramped in stays or in waring. At ten,
the sea tolerably clear, again stood to the southward and westward.
At. meridian, obliged to haul to the westward, many icebergs, and
floating ice in large masses around us. At 4 p. M., weather clearing a
little, discovered a field ahead; wore to the southward and westward.
Until midnight, working to the northward and westward, many islands,

APPENDIX. 413

loose tracts, and floating ice passing ; weather generally so thick as not
to be able to see two hundred feet. From eight to midnight, passed
twenty-five islands. At 10h 45m, weather clear for a short time ; saw
the ice extending from southwest to northeast. At midnight, sea
clearer ; sails and rigging stiff' with ice.

March 23d, latitude, at meridian, about 69° 17' S., longitude 100° 30'
W. This day the weather has been clearer than for some time past.
At daylight, intended keeping away to fix position of field-ice, but
about that time the weather became very thick ; hove-to until seven
o'clock, when, no prospect of the weather clearing, stood to the north-
ward and eastward. The sea now became tolerably clear, yet the
passage of floating ice and icebergs still devolved the necessity of a
bright look-out. In the afternoon, stood to the southward and east-
ward, and for three hours observed appearances of land ; but at
3h 30™, discovered large masses of ice, and numerous icebergs. At
six, the ice bore from south to east, standing to the northward and
eastward ; water much discoloured. At midnight, the southern horizon
brilliantly illuminated by the aurora australis.

March 24th, latitude, at meridian, about 69° 06' S., longitude 96° 50'
W. From four to eight had moderate northwesterly winds, with
snow ; weather hazy. From eight to meridian, moderate breezes,
with a heavy fall of snow ; first part passed many icebergs, and large
quantities of floating ice. At 10h 30m, got suddenly into large fields
of packed and broken ice, extending as far as the eye could reach, in
all directions, and which, by the assistance of the snow, (which, in the
clearer spots, laid undisturbed on the surface,) appeared to be rapidly
becoming solid ; the sea was cut off by the larger masses to windward,
and to add to our anxiety the wind appeared declining : we lost no
time in forcing out to windward, as on the former occasion. The
vessel seeming ill-constructed for such rough contusions, and very
fearful that her copper would be cut through, we cut up the boards in
the spare-cabin berths to preserve it ; but after getting into clearer
water, the sea became too heavy, and while within the field I did not
think we could spare the time to get them on. I am well convinced,
and such was the general opinion on board, that within a short time
after we cleared it, it became a firm field of ice. Having on two
distinct occasions narrowly escaped being closed in by the ice, our
want of fuel, the general unfitness of the vessel, and want of prepara-
tions for such an emergency, my " Instructions" called upon me most
imperiously to return; and I put our head to the northward, deter-
mined to keep it so until we should change our temperature ; which,
with a proper ambition to get beyond previous navigators, I did the

2K2

414 APPENDIX.

less reluctantly, as I felt confident the season for operations in these
latitudes had already passed, — the sun being already in northern
declination, and little assistance to be expected from the moon and
stars.

On the 25th of March I fell in with you again, sir. It had been my
intention that day at noon to stand to the eastward, and, if I found the
sea sufficiently clear, to pass to the southward and eastward of the
island of Peter I., in quest of the western extremity of Palmer's Land,
and thence to execute what should remain unexecuted of my " Instruc-
tions," with which you are well acquainted.

Fearful of an early separation from you, in the thick weather now
so prevalent in these latitudes, I have hurriedly drawn up this report,
which I trust will excuse its deficiency in minute details, for which I
beg leave to refer you to my journal (which I shall lose no time in
submitting to you), and to the log-book, and other journals of the
schooner.

I cannot close, sir, without expressing my entire satisfaction with
the conduct of the crew of the schooner ; they have now been wet for
thirty days, suffering from cold, and frequently covered with ice and
snow ; indeed, in my experience, I have never known men subjected
to equal hardships. From such causes, from two to three of the
number have generally been unfit for duty; nevertheless, the remainder
have displayed an enthusiasm for the service in which they have been
engaged, and have performed their duties with a cheerfulness and
alacrity that, if equalled, I have never seen surpassed. I confidently
trust that you will so represent their conduct to the commander-in-
chief, that it may be distinguished by a public expression of his appro-
bation.

In conclusion, sir, I must acknowledge my indebtedness to the skill
and experience of Mr. Knox, and the ready attention of Mr. Ham-
mersly, from whom I have received the most hearty co-operation.

Very respectfully, yours, &c.,

(Signed) WILLIAM M. WALKER,

Commanding U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish.

WILLIAM L. HUDSON, ESQ.,

Commanding U. S. Ship Peacock, and Schooner Flying-Fish.

In looking over this communication, I believe it better to state that
the appearance noticed in the ice, and of which I have made mention
on the third page, amounted to a deep earthy stain. I cannot pretend
to account for it.

APPENDIX. 415

XXXII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Orange Harbour, April 17th, 1839.
SIR, —

You will await here, until the 23d instant, for the arrival of the
Relief; and when she arrives, you will immediately receive on board
the gentlemen whom Lieutenant-Commandant Long may transfer to
the Sea-Gull. You will afford them the best possible accommodation,
and proceed with all despatch to Valparaiso, where you will find me
or orders.

Should the Relief not arrive here on or before the 23d instant, you
will proceed on the 24th, without delay, to Valparaiso.

You will report to Lieutenant-Commandant Long, on his arrival,
and show him this order, after which your detention must not exceed
six hours, as it is important you should reach Valparaiso.

If you should discover the Relief off, you will run out to take the
passengers on board, with as little delay as possible.

Should she not arrive on or before the 23d, you will deposit the
orders for Lieutenant-Commandant Long on the summit of Burnt
Island.

I am, respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
PASSED MID. J. W. E. REID,

Commanding Sea-Gull.

XXXIII.

GENERAL ORDER.

THE officers of the Exploring Expedition will transmit to me, on
the receipt of this order, such collections of shells, specimens, &c., as
they may have made since leaving the United States, with lists of the
same, for the purpose of having them placed in a proper state for
preservation and safe keeping.

It is presumed that each officer has availed himself of every oppor-
tunity of aiding, by individual collections, this most important depart-
ment of the Expedition.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Orange Harbour, Terra del Fuego,
April 16th, 1839.

416 APPENDIX.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS IN RELATION TO THE COLLECTION AND PRESERVATION
OF SPECIMENS, SHELLS, ETC.

THE undersigned, commanding the Exploring Expedition, has
examined the collections called for by him, and finds, with much
regret and mortification, that few or none have been made.

The object of this communication is to avoid any misapprehension
hereafter, in regard to the orders heretofore given by the Navy Depart-
ment and myself, requiring the collection and preservation of all shells,
specimens, &c.

To the country belong all our labours, and it being the earnest wish
of the government, that as large and extensive collections as possible
be introduced into the United States by the Exploring Expedition, it is
the duty, and should be the wish of every officer, to afford all the aid
in his power in effecting this object.

Any selfish ideas of accumulating for ourselves, I trust are laid aside,
particularly when it is considered that the opportunity of effecting this
object will be much greater by united and general collections and
preservations, as all which are left, after the government are supplied,
would undoubtedly be returned to those who had collected them, if
desired, in preference to others.

It is believed, that with proper exertions and attention, a sufficient
number can be obtained during the cruise, to supply every one who
may desire it, from the general collection.

No expense or means will be spared by me on the part of the
government, to place every article in the most secure state of preser-
vation and safe keeping; this could not be done, if all specimens are
retained by the persons collecting them.

1st. Hereafter, each officer will avail himself of every opportunity
of making collections, on shore and afloat, and transmit them to the
commander, or such person as he may designate, who will cause them
to be cleaned or arranged for safe keeping, and lists will accompany
them, with the name of the person who collected them.

2d. All specimens, shells, &c., (in no case exceeding one hundred,)
will be required if they can be obtained.

3d. The cost of any article purchased will be refunded, should it be
wanted by the government. Valuable and rare shells, seldom met with,
will of course be retained by the government.

4th. The Naturalists will have every opportunity afforded them, of
examining and describing any fish, shells, &c., as soon as taken.

These arrangements will, it is hoped, produce the desired co-opera-
tion, and will insure success ; not only meeting the view of the

APT EN L>1 X. 417

country, but also holding out to individuals the only way in which
they can be sure of procuring so desirable an end, as a complete
collection of all those obtained by the different vessels.

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

Orange Harbour, Terra del Fuego,
April 18th, 1839.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Valparaiso, May 17th, 1839.
SIR,

I enclose herewith the general instructions relative to the collection
and preservation of specimens, shells, &c., for the information and
government of the officers of the Peacock, under your command.

Some suitable person on board will be selected to preserve all articles
that may hereafter be obtained.

I wish to call the attention of the officers of the squadron to the
duties required of them at every port we may visit, in relation to
making and noting observations, &c.

To each and all of us attaches the obligation, not only of making
collections, but furnishing descriptions of foreign countries, and people,
their manners, customs, and inhabitants, their climate, soil, and pro-
ductions, with the many instructive and interesting incidents which
are afforded us.

The government expects and requires this of all officers attached to
the Exploring Expedition, in addition to their other duties ; and I
trust that no opportunity will be omitted in complying with all that is
required or expected.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
CAPTAIN WM. L. HUDSON,

U. S. Ship Peacock.
LIEUT. COM. C. RINGOOLD,

U. S. Brig Porpoise.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

May 25th, 1839.
SIR, —

You will proceed to the port of Callao, with all possible despatch.
The Bouqueron Passage is recommended to you to enter by, as it will
save you much time. You will anchor at the island of San Lorenzo,
near the wharf usually occupied by the Pacific Squadron. You have

VOL. i. 52

418 APPENDIX.

permission to lift the bowsprit of the brig, and endeavour to discover
and stop the leak ; this must be done with all possible expedition, as
you must be ready to sail in five days after my arrival there.

You will deliver the enclosed orders to Lieutenant-Commandant
Long, of the Relief.

Every exertion is expected from yourself and officers to effect this
object, in the speedy accomplishment of your repairs, whilst laying at
the island of San Lorenzo. You will be very particular in noting the
hourly observations of the temperature of the air and water.

Two boats of the squadron will tow you to sea to-morrow morning
at daylight.

Yours, very respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. C. RINGGOLD,

Commanding Porpoise.

XXXIV.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Valparaiso, May 31st, 1839.
SIR, —

In consequence of the contemplated changes which have become
necessary, you are hereby appointed commander of the United States
Schooner Sea-Gull, one of the vessels attached to the Exploring
Squadron (under my command), until further orders.

Your compensation will be the same as the lieutenants commanding
brigs and schooners on the coast survey, when the Exploring Expedi-
tion left the United States, which will include all expenses while on
shore or afloat.

I have directed Passed Midshipman Reid to report to you.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. T. T. CRAVEN,

Valparaiso.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Valparaiso, June 1st, 1839.
SIR, —

You will remain at Valparaiso until the arrival of the schooner
Sea-Gull, one of the vessels of the Exploring Squadron, expected here
hourly.

APPENDIX. 419

On her arrival, you will supply her with all possible despatch by
requisitions on the navy agent, with all the outfits, rigging, stores, and
provisions, (which you cannot more conveniently obtain at Callao,)
when you will proceed direct to Callao ; where you will find me, or
orders with the navy agent, directing your further movements.

You will also procure any funds you may require from the navy
agent on requisition and receipts, and will furnish me with a statement
of the amount received and disbursed during your separation.

It is necessary you should join me at Callao, as soon as practicable.
I trust, therefore, you will have every article ready to be put on board
the Sea-Gull the first day after her arrival, and sail the succeeding
day.

I have requested our consul, G. G. Hobson, Esq., to afford you every
facility.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. T. T. CRAVEN,

Valparaiso.

Navy Department,

December 9th, 1839.

SIR, —

The Department has observed in the newspapers a notice of your
gallant and successful efforts in rescuing a portion of the crew of the
Chilian sloop-of-war Monteguedo, which, it appears, was wrecked in
the harbour of Valparaiso, during the gale of the 24th and 25th of
July last.

Although you have already enjoyed the highest reward of your
exertions, in the success which crowned them, it would not do justice
to its own feelings, did it refrain from expressing to you its admiration
of the fearless self-devotion displayed by you on that occasion, and
which is alike honourable to yourself, to the service, and to your
country.

I am, very respectfully,

Your obedient servant,

(Signed) J. K. PAULDING.

LIEUTENANT T. T. CRAVEN,

United Stales Exploring Expedition.

420 APPENDIX.

XXXV.

GENERAL ORDER.

THE undersigned, commanding the Exploring Expedition, has de-
ferred acknowledging the great gratification he has received from the
reports of the commanders of the different vessels respecting the
officers and crews, during their late arduous cruise, and takes this
opportunity, not only to offer them his thanks, but to assure them that
he has duly represented the same to the government ; and feels great
confidence that in the coming service they will show an equal alacrity
and obedience to their officers, and a determination to carry out the
views of the government and the country.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,

June 15th, 1839.

XXXVI.

U. S. Ship Vincennos,

Harbour of Callao, June 20th, 1830.
SIR, —

In consequence of the changes which have become necessary in the
Exploring Squadron (under my command), you are hereby appointed
commander of the United States Schooner Flying-Fish, one of the
vessels attached to the same, until further orders.

Your compensation will be the same as the lieutenants commanding
schooners on the coast survey, when the Exploring Squadron left the
United States, which will include all expenses while on shore and
afloat.

I have appointed Passed Midshipman Knox an Acting-Master, with
orders to report to you for duty on board the Flying-Fish;

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. R. F. PINKNEV,

U. S. Schooner Flying-Fish.

APPENDIX. 421

XXXVII.

GENERAL ORDERS.

THE undersigned, commanding the Exploring Expedition, has atten-
tively examined the proceedings of the Naval Court of Inquiry, relative
to the detention of the boat at Good Success Bay, in March last, and
the conduct of Lieutenant Dale, who was in charge of her.

In the opinion of the court he concurs ; having been an eye-witness
to the principal transactions, and believes that the- whole difficulty and
detention of the boat arose and was occasioned by the inexperience of
Lieutenant Dale in managing a boat in the surf: the mode of using
the ample means he had; a want of determined perseverance to
execute his orders ; and some procrastination in effecting his progress
through the surf; being influenced by the timidity of some of those with
him, arising from the novelty of the situation they were placed in.

In consideration of the remarkably long confinement of Lieutenant
Dale under suspension, and being fully impressed with the opinion of
the court relative to his good conduct and attention to the men during
his detention on shore; he is restored to duty, and will resume his
duties accordingly.

The undersigned takes this opportunity to impress upon all under his
command, the great necessity of adhering strictly to and carrying
orders into execution, and of obtaining information relative to the
best modes of surmounting difficulties before encountering them ; also,
to provide themselves fully with the means necessary to execute
orders ; and all those who may be passengers in boats to abstain from
interfering or giving advice, unless it is asked, — as many delays and
difficulties may thus be avoided.

He cannot refrain from expressing the high opinion he has of the
conduct of Lieutenant Hartstein ; also, of John Moore (quarter-master),
Francis Williams (boatswain's mate), and Samuel Stretch (quarter-
master), who volunteered in the attempt to afford assistance to the
party on shore, and he desires to return them his thanks for their
conduct.

The Naval Court of Inquiry, of which Captain William L. Hudson
is President, is hereby dissolved.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding' Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

Callao, June 20th, 1839.

2L

422 APPENDIX.

XXXVIII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Callao, June 22d, 1839.

8lR, —

We, the undersigned officers of the Exploring Expedition, under
your command, respectfully take the liberty of addressing you on the
subject of those officers who have incurred your displeasure in conse-
quence of having been engaged in a duel; and whom, it is understood,
you intend sending to the United States, with a recommendation to the
proper authority that they may be dismissed the service.

We are very far from arrogating to ourselves the right of discussing
the propriety of any course you may think proper to adopt, with regard
to those gentlemen ; but, when we consider the youth and inexperience
of the parties, we are convinced that the affair was entered into with-
out proper reflection upon the ill effect that such conduct would have
upon the reputation and efficiency of the service upon which we are
engaged, and that the decided expression of your displeasure will be
sufficient to deter others from the commission of a similar error ; and
we respectfully assure you that it would be the source of great grati-
fication to all of us if you could render it consistent with your duties
and responsibilities, as the commander of the Expedition, to overlook
the offence against the discipline of the service, of which those officers
have been guilty, and restore them to their duty.
We have the honour to be, very respectfully,

(Signed) ROBERT F. PINKNEY, Lieutenant-Commandant.

OVER/TON CARR, Lieutenant.

JAMES ALDEN, Lieutenant.

A. LTJDLOW CASE, Lieutenant.

O. H. PERRY, Lieutenant.

JOHN B. DALE, Lieutenant.

JAMES H. NORTH, Acting-Master.

AUGUSTUS A. BALDWIN, Acting-Master.

GEORGE F. EMMONS, Lieutenant.

THOMAS A. BUDD, Lieutenant.

SAMUEL R. KNOX, Acting-Master.

WILLIAM SPIEDEN, Purser.

GEORGE F. SINCLAIR, Acting-Master.

JOSEPH A. UNDERWOOD, Lieutenant.

II. J. UARTSTEIN, Lieutenant.

APPENDIX. 423

GENERAL ORDER.

Having received a strong application from all the officers of the
squadron, in behalf of the young officers lately engaged in a duel, and
believing that so remarkable a circumstance as the unanimous call of
all their seniors, with their pledges that the reputation of the Expedition
shall not suffer from the repetition of a like occurrence, and feeling
also assured as I do, that nothing of the kind will again occur during
the cruise, to cast a stigma upon the reputation of the squadron, and
believing that the Honourable the Secretary of the Navy, after a perusal
of all the documents in relation to this case, will coincide in my views,
and justify my proceedings, I have determined under all the circum-
stances to retain them in the squadron.

Passed Midshipmen Lewis and Harrison, and Midshipmen Blair and
Henry, will therefore rejoin the Peacock forthwith.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Callao, June 23d, 1839.

XXXIX.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Callao, July llth, 1839.
SIR, —

You will, on the arrival of the Sea-Gull at this port, proceed direct
to Matavai Bay, Tahiti, Society Islands, pursuing the following route.

Steering a course that will take you in or about the longitude of
105° W., to the latitude of 20° S., which latitude you will pursue until
you fall in with the Low Archipelago, and continue thereon until you
reach the longitude of 134° W., where you will haul to the northward,
and make two islands, called by the English Minerva and Serle Island,
and by the French Clermont de Tonnerre : they are in about latitude
18° 32' S., longitude 136° W.,the latter, or Serle Island, in latitude 18°
05' S., longitude 137° W. The French and English differ as respects
the situation of this island.

From thence you will stand again to the southward, passing in the
latitude of 20° S., to see if Turnbull's Island does exist : it is said to
be in latitude 20° 10' S., longitude 143° W. ; thence you will make
and run over San Pablo Isle, another doubtful one, in latitude 20°
S., and longitude 145° W., and from thence to Matavai Bay, where
you will find me, or letters with the American consul, directing your
further movements.

424 APPENDIX.

In the event of the Sea-Gull arriving after receipt of this letter, you
will furnish her at Valparaiso with all necessary articles, and render
her complete for the intended service. After having completed which,
you will lose no time in proceeding on the route designated above.

Your attention is particularly called to investigating any shoal, reef,
or island that you may fall in with, not duly represented on your chart,
taking azimuth bearings, when you have determined your situation.

If you should not possess the necessary charts of the Pacific Ocean,
you will at once make a requisition on the navy agent for that purpose,
getting the latest and the best; I have written to him accordingly to
supply all your wants, believing that you will require nothing that is
not necessary.

You will, of course, continue the usual observations of temperature,
&c., and acquire as much information on your route as you can.

In the event of the Sea-Gull not being heard from within four months
after the 1st of June, you have permission to return to the United States,
or join the squadron on the Pacific Station, whichever may suit your
own views. The attempt to follow the squadron would be impossible,
with any chance of success; therefore I do not consider myself
authorized to incur the expense, and devote the time of any officer to
so vague a prospect of service.

Wishing you a pleasant and prosperous passage,

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

LIEUT. COM. T. T. CRAVEN,

Valparaiso.

Similar instructions were given to Lieutenant-Commandant Craven
at Callao, omitting those parts relating to Valparaiso.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

Harbour of Callao, July llth, 1839.
SIR, —

You will avoid by all means in your power a separation; in the
event of such an occasion, you will steer for the island of St. Paul's,
or its supposed locality ; thence to the island of Minerva or Clermont
de Tonnerre, in latitude 18° 32' S., longitude 136° W. ; then hauling
to the northward to make the Isle of Disappointment ; thence by King
George's Group, Waterlandt Land, and Dean's Island ; and from
thence to Matavai Bay in the island of Tahiti.

You will at each of these places make some stay, and remain at
Matavai Bay until you hear from me.

APPENDIX. 425

You will pay particular attention to all your observations, and make
a full examination of any thing you may fall in with.

On your arrival at Matavai Bay, you will lose no time in obtaining
sights for your chronometers on shore, on Venus Point.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
CAPTAIN HUDSON, Commanding Exploring Expedition.

Peacock.
LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT RINGGOLD,

Porpoise.
LIEUTENANT-COMMANDANT PINKNEY,

Flying-Fish.

XL.

U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,

Callao, July 12th, 1839.
SIR, —

You will proceed from this port to Oahu, Sandwich Islands, taking
in your route the American Group of islands, in latitude 16° 10' N.,
longitude 134° 50' W. These islands have been unsuccessfully looked
for by Captain Beechey, in this position ; you will therefore make the
latitude in longitude 130° W., to the eastward of their supposed situation,
and run along it until you reach 140° W. : — thence direct to Oahu.

On your arrival there, you will leave in charge of the United States
Consul, P. A. Brismade, Esq., all of the articles on board of the Relief
belonging to the Exploring Expedition, excepting eight months' provi-
sions for your crew, and sundry articles of provisions and stores to be
landed at Sydney, New South Wales, agreeably to the lists enclosed
herewith.

You will take from the consul receipts for the provisions which
you may land for me at Sydney ; you will require him, also, to have
two-thirds of the flour (reserving the kiln-dried) you deliver him, baked
and ready for the squadron early in the spring.

After remaining at Oahu fifteen days, you will proceed direct to
Sydney, New South Wales, passing through the different archipelagoes
as you may deem most expedient, and as the winds will permit. On
your arrival at Sydney, you will leave in charge of J. H. Williams,
United States Consul there, all the provisions and stores named in the
list herewith marked " for Sydney," taking receipts for them, which
you will leave enclosed for me, and request him to have one hundred
barrels of the flour (reserving the kiln-dried) baked into hard bread,
for the squadron, as soon as convenient.

von. i. 2L2 53

426 APPENDIX.

After landing all the articles at Sydney, you will take on board
sufficient ballast, and proceed, via Cape Horn, to the United States,
stopping at Rio de Janeiro if you require any provisions, stores, or
slop clothing, which you will obtain by requisitions on the navy store-
keeper there. You will not remain at Rio de Janeiro over ten days,
and will proceed to Norfolk or New York, the latter if the season will
permit, to enable you to dispose of the specimens, in regard to which
you have separate orders enclosed, and to which I request your parti-
cular attention.

You will take charge of, and send to the Navy Department, the log-
books of the squadron sent home by you.

You will, during the cruise, take on board the Relief, and ship, all
distressed American seamen whom you may meet with.

On your arrival in the United States, you will show these orders to
the commander of the station, and report by letter through him, to the
Honourable the Secretary of the Navy, enclosing him a copy of them,
as he has been requested to direct the payment of your officers and
crew by the purser of the station, to whom you will deliver the rolls
and accounts, with a statement of the money and slops advanced by
you, that the same may be checked, taking receipts for the same, as
offsets to the amount furnished you here in money and slop clothing.

You will keep a correct muster-roll of your officers and crew,
noting any changes.

You will require from the officers all their journals, specimens, &c.,
agreeably to the instructions of the Navy Department ; all of which
you will box up and deposit at the Navy Department.

I enclose letters for the Consuls at the Sandwich Islands, and
Sydney. Any expenses they may incur on the stores will be refunded
on my arrival.

Should the Consul arid Vice-Consul at Sydney be absent, you will
call on Messrs. Edwards and Hunt.

If possible, you will anchor in the inner harbour at Oahu.

You will leave for me, with the Consul at Sydney, a report of your
cruise from this place to Sydney; and you will on your arrival at
home, forward to the Honourable the Secretary of the Navy, under
cover to me, a report of the proceedings of the Relief from Sydney
to the United States, addressed to me at Washington.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. A. K. Lo.v;,

RelieC

APPENDIX. 427

XL I.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, July 16th, 1839.

WITH a view of avoiding any misapprehension in regard to the
duties of the artists attached to the Exploring Expedition, and that
their services and time may be as usefully engaged as possible, I deem
it proper to state, that they will not confine themselves exclusively to
any particular branch, without directions from me, but will divide their
duties among the different departments in such a manner as may be
deemed most conducive to the interest and benefit of the whole.

Very respectfully, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

ORDERS FOR OBSERVATIONS, ETC.

THE following arrangements with regard to observations will be
daily attended to on board the different vessels of the squadron, under
the directions of their respective commanders : returns will be made
to me weekly.

1st. The lieutenant, passed midshipman, and midshipman, of the
first watch will assist the master in the forenoon observations for time
and azimuth.

2d. Those of the mid-watch will take the meridian altitude.

3d. Those of the morning watch will assist in the afternoon obser-
vations.

4th. The officers who have no night-watch will be called upon for
measuring distances during the night.

5th. The master will be informed in time, when opportunities occur
for making observations for amplitude, in the morning and evening.

6th. The results of each officer, signed by him, will be sent to the
commander daily, and entered by his clerk in a book of observations,
who will note the time when required.

(Signed) CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, July 16th, 1839.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, August 2d, 1839.
SIR, —

When you suppose your vessel at her designated distance, you wil'
hoist your ensign for firing, which will be answered as soon as seen.

428 APPENDIX.

It is believed that when the Vincennes' masthead subtends an angle
of 25', you will be three miles from her.

After the signal is made to take stations, you will pursue that course
which will lead you to it as soon as possible.

Immediately after the signal being made to measure azimuths,
observations will be taken between the sun and vessels, during the
taking of which observations, the ship's ensign will be hoisted at the
peak.

You will, after we heave-to for the night, try the dipping-needles
and deep-sea temperature.

You will calculate the time, so as to be near the flag-ship at night-
fall, and any signals that are made will be repeated to the vessel
farthest off. In case of appearance of bad weather, you will at once
draw to close order of sailing unless otherwise directed.

It is desirable that all calculations should be made before the day
closes. The current should be tried daily, either morning or evening.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
CAPTAIN WM. L. HUDSON,

U. S. Ship Peacock.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, August 8th, 1839.

CAPTAIN HUDSON will assign watches to the scientific gentlemen and
officers who are usually excused from watch, on the nights of the 8th,
9th, and 10th of August. One quarter of the heavens will be assigned
to each person, who will note at once, on paper, any meteors that may
appear, viz., their size ; with or without train ; their height ; the points
of appearance and disappearance; and the time of flight.

Although it may seem difficult to accomplish all of this on a meteor,
yet it is possible and even easy, viz., by noting the star of the constel-
lation near which it appears and disappears ; counting until its dis-
appearance ; the arc may be accurately ascertained by a sextant ; and
the bearing of the two stars, its true direction ; the counting compared
with a chronometer will be the true time ; and yet one has time to
examine its length of train, brilliancy, &c.

Respectfully,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

Similar instructions to Lieutenants-Commandant Ringgold and
Pinkney.

APPENDIX. 429

U. S. Ship Vinccnnes,

At Sea, August 8th, 1839.

IN order more effectually to observe the periodical meteors which
may be repeated, on the nights of the 8th, 9th, and 10th of August,
the following officers will keep watch on those nights, and assist the
officers of the watch in making observations.

With the 1st watch, Mr. Couthouy and Mr. Elliott.

With the 2d watch, Dr. Pickering and Mr. Howison.

With the 3d watch, Mr. Drayton and Dr. Fox.

With the 4th watch, Dr. Gilchrist and Dr. Whittle.

The officer of the watch will assign a quarter of the heavens to each
person in his watch, who will note at once on paper, any meteors that
may be visible, viz., their size; with or without train; their height;
the points of appearance and disappearance ; and the time of flight.

Although it may seem difficult to accomplish all this on a meteor,
yet it is possible, and even easy, viz., by noting the star of the constel-
lation near which it appears and disappears ; counting until its dis-
appearance ; the arc may be accurately measured by a sextant ; the
bearing of the twro stars gives the direction ; and the counting com-
pared with a chronometer gives the true time ; and yet one has time
to examine its length of train, brilliancy, &c.

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.

MODE OF SURVEYING THE CORAL ISLANDS.

As the surveys of islands are frequently spoken of in the body of
the work, I have deemed it proper to give in this place a concise
explanation of the method employed for this purpose, and applied
particularly to the low coral islands, together with an example to
serve as an illustration of the mode in which it was carried into effect.

In consequence of the time that could be allotted to such examina-
tions being limited, it became desirable that such a course should be
pursued in our surveys as should unite to the utmost expedition the
greatest attainable accuracy. A method, which it is trusted united
these requisites, was, therefore, devised and communicated to the
officers of the squadron in the shape of a syllabus. In this I pointed
out the mode of operating, and it was recommended to their study, in
order that all might become familiar with its details. The basis of
this method rested upon the measure of distances by sound. For this
we had ready means by firing guns alternately from the different

430

APPENDIX.

vessels, any three of which being stationary, the distances and posi-
tions of objects could be determined from them by direct angles,
giving a double result, or by the angles between them, taken from the
shore or from boats, furnishing data for the problem of " the three
points." When both methods can be applied at the same time, it is
evident that the utmost accuracy may be obtained. Upon the land,
by employing many observers, and occupying all the points of a
trigonometric survey simultaneously, the whole work might evidently
be completed in a very short space of time ; and in like manner upon
the water, creating, by means of vessels and boats, a number of
artificial stations around an island, measuring angles simultaneously at
them all, and measuring the base lines by sound, the rapidity with
which a survey can be performed is equally as great.

By means of the system of signals prepared by me for the Exploring
Expedition, I could direct the vessels to assume any position I might
select as most fit for our purpose. When these were reached, general
but minute instructions, directed the observations that were to be taken
at each, in doing which there was no difficulty. These observations
were entered upon a deck-board, for which the following form was
prescribed :

FORM OF DECK-BOARD.

TIME.

AZIMUTH
OF Q.

LEFT-HAND
OBJECT.

CENTRE
OBJECT.

RIGHT-HAND
OBJECT.

REMARKS.

To illustrate still further the mode in which the whole squadron was
made to concur in obtaining unity of action, a detail of a survey and
a plot of the work are subjoined.

On approaching the island to be surveyed, signal was made to
prepare for surveying duty ; if boats were to be used, the number of
them and the vessels whence they were to be despatched was next
indicated ; and finally, the position each vessel was to occupy was
shown. The vessels having reached their assigned places, hove-to,
and the boats, having been previously despatched, would about the
same time have anchored in their assigned stations, at the points of
reefs, and hoisted their appropriate signals. The vessel that is first to
fire a gun then hoists an ensign at the foremast-head, which is answered
by all, and the flag is in like manner displayed previous to each sue-

APPENDIX.

431

cessive fire. The firing then goes on in quick succession from all the
vessels ; and at the time, all the officers being on deck for the purpose,
angles are measured between the other vessels and objects on the
shore, each by a different observer, as directed and indicated by the
oldest officer on the deck ; these angles, together with those made by
the visual tangents to the shores, have always been found sufficient to
plot from. During this operation the ensign is kept hoisted at the peak,
so that all the angles may be taken simultaneously. Altitudes of the
sun for time, and angles whence to calculate the azimuth of some one
of the objects, are also taken immediately before or after the horizontal
angles ; and at the same time, the altitude and azimuth of the mast of
one of the ships is observed for the purpose of defining their position.

When this is done, one of the vessels changes her position, while the
others maintain theirs by manoeuvring so as to keep the angles between
objects on the shore of the same magnitude ; the boats having in the mean
time changed theirs also : the same operations are then repeated.

Of such an operation, the annexed wood-cut is an example.

By these alternate changes in the stations of the several vessels, and
boats continued until a circuit of the island has been made, the work is
finished, and when it joins, it is proved by the last distance determined

432 APPENDIX.

by azimuthal angles and sound, as by a base of verification. The
deck-boards are now sent on board the flag-ship, where the work is
calculated and plotted.

The survey of the island thus represented, which is about seven
miles in length, was performed in three hours and thirty-five minutes.
It began, as noted on the deck-boards, at lh 18m p. M., arid the observa-
tions closed at 4h 53m p. M.

INSTRUCTIONS RELATIVE TO THE DECK-BOARD.

THE deck-board will be kept strictly according to the formula here-
with sent.

The officers of the deck will be particular in marking the times at
which any of the vessels change their position, and the length of time
they remain in them (by ship's time) ; also the times that the firing
takes place.

The measured angles will be at once communicated to this ship.

The original deck-paper, with the calculated azimuth results, will be
sent to me at the expiration of the day's work, a copy of which will
be made previously, and kept on board.

The particular attention of the officers is required to the " Instruc-
tions for Boat Duty, Surveying, &c.," of the 22d of February, 1839,
also to the Manual of Surveying.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

U. S. Ship Vincenncs,

At Sea, August 15th, 1839.

XLII.

s

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, August 25th, 1839.
SIR, —

I was surprised to notice this evening, that the boats from the
Peacock were not alongside at sunset, as there are positive written
orders to that effect, unless the boats are previously recalled by signal.

I presume, also, that the officers of the boats had no authority from
you to land, although I saw several on shore, which must have caused
some delay in regard to those engaged on surveying duty, a service
second to none in the Expedition; besides hazarding a difficulty with

APPENDIX. 433

the natives, which might have occasioned also a delay to the whole
squadron, as they are evidently hostile.

I trust a similar occurrence will not come under my notice again
during the present cruise.

The orders to the officers of the boats must be well understood
before they leave the ship, and strictly obeyed ; otherwise the inter-
course with the islands must be restricted.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,

Commanding Exploring Expedition.
CAPT. WM. L. HUDSON,

U. S. Ship Peacock.

XLIII.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

August 31st, 1839.

HEREAFTER no specimens of coral, live shells, or any thing else that
may produce a bad smell, will be taken below the spar-deck, or into
any of the rooms ; and it will be the duty of those bringing such on
board, to report them to the officer of the deck, who will see that they
are placed under the charge of a man appointed to look out for them ;
and that this order is strictly obeyed.

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

XLIV.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, September 1st, 1839.
SIR —

You will proceed around the island of Raraka, and obtain its
dimensions, as indicated in your orders of yesterday, turning its west
point, and continuing down its south side, until you reach the position
you left yesterday. Your courses and distances must be kept very
accurately, and your approach to the shore and reef, as near as prac-
ticable with safety.

You will always regain the same position in the morning, that you
left the day before.

After you shall have executed this duty, you will then proceed fo the
northeast, and make the island we discovered, called Taiara, or King's
Island, and steer from there by daylight a northwest course.

VOL. i. 54

APPENDIX.

You will make Carlshoff Island, and from thence proceed to the
north side of Prince of Wales Island, where you will meet me ; if not,
however, you will determine the east and west ends of it, and that of
Krusenstern's Island in' its vicinity ; from thence you will proceed to
Matavai Bay, and await further orders.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.

TjIEUT. COM. C. RlNGGOLD,

U. S. Brig Porpoise.

XLV.

U. S. Ship Vincennes,

At Sea, September 4th, 1839.
SIR, —

You will proceed to windward, and visit Oura and Tiokea Islands,
of King George's Group, and ascertain their correct position, and the
number of islands composing the group. From thence you will
proceed by Waterlandt to the Prince of Wales Island, coasting along
the northern side, and taking observations as required by my orders of
the 1st instant ; and from thence to Matavai Bay for further orders.

Should you arrive at Matavai Bay before this ship, you will allow
none of the natives to remain on board or visit the Flying-Fish after
sunset.

Your vessel must never be left without two officers.

I am, &c.,

CHARLES WILKES,
Commanding Exploring Expedition.
LIEUT. COM. R. F. PINKNEY,

Flying-Fish.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

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