B.

EMPEROR OF ALL HORSE EDUCATORS.

Valuable Book on the Handling and Subduilig of
Wild and Vicious Horses and their
Proper Treatment.

NDER THE MANAGEMENT OF NAT BEHRENS.

'■■■^..<#

HORSEMANSHIP.

It is necessary for any man wishing to handle horses suc-
cessfully, to be self-possessed, determined, and to give sonn
attention to the horse's natural habits and disposition. I do
not think it is claiming too much for this system to say, by
its use, any horse may be broke (regardless of his being
previously spoiled) so as to make him perfectly docile and
safe, even for a family horse.

In dealing with this plan you are not wasting your time witli
a mysterions trick with which so many are humbugged b}
unprincipled men, who have nothing good at heat for eithei
horse or man, but merely want ill gained dollars. In this
b )ok you will find the principles of a universally applicable-
system for the better training of horses for man's use, pro-
ducing such matchless docility as has not before been
found. The three fundamental principles of this theory arc-
first, unconditional control, and teach submission and docility .
(This being the first lesson for the horse, is of the greatest
importance, and is the same to his education that the alpha-
bet is to the bay's, and should be learned perfectly for ease
and success in after lessons.) Secondly, let kindness run
through all your actions towards the horse ; thirdly, appeal
properly to the horse's understanding, prudently associating
mastery with kindness ; rebuke wrong and reward right.

Although the horse possesses some faculties superior to man
yet he is deficient in reasoning power, consequently cannot
associate past and present things, know right from wrong or
decide what he should or should not do, yet he is naturally of
a kind disposition, as evidenced by his attachment for his
kind keeper. He has no thought of disobedience except by a
pernicious imprudence of violating the laws of his nature, in
which case he is not at fault, but the violator You will
hereinafter learn that he may be taught to perfectly submit to
anything, however odious it may have been to him at first.
Truly yours,

PROF. NORTON B. SMITH.

SYDNEY R. SMITH

Sporting Books

Canaan, New York 12029

TO SHOE KICKER BEHIND.

Put on foot you wish to shoe between hoof-band and
fetlock, a hames strap with ring in it, pass through
ring from underneath the end of a rope same as used
for Double Safety-Rope. Make slipnoose in end and
hang over left arm. Take wooden pin 6 inches long,
and I or i}^ inches diameter, lay across top of tail
at the end of the bone in the tail, fold hair
back ovet it, and put noose on left arm over
pin and around tail, close up to pin. This holds pin
firmly in tail and tsiil firmly in noose. Take hold of
other end of rope and pull saying, " Take up your
foot." Foot will come up sure.

BREAKING AND TRAINING COLTS.

The first lesson given to a colt should be as follows:
Turn him loose, either in a box-stall or carriage house,
and, with the whip in right hand, slowly approach him
and crack the whip. The colt will run away from you

2

and generally go into the corner. FoI'dw him up
however, and keep cracking the whip until he will
turn his head toward you. The moment he does this
step right up to him and caress him on the point of
the shoulder. If he should, as you near him, whirl
around and kick at you, keep your eyes open and
quickly give him a sharp cut on the hind legs with the
whip. By following this up carefully, in a very short
time he will learn to his sorrow that when he turns
away from you, and attempts to let his heels fly he will
receive punishment, and that when he looks you in the
face he is treated well and rewarded. The intelligence
of any colt is always sufficient to perceive this, and in
fifteen to thirty minutes he will follow you around like
a dog. As he will feel that you are his superior and
master, he will show no desire to kick.

What the fingers are to a man, the nostrils are to a
horse,*and au}^ object that seems to occasion a feeling
of tear in the horse you should slowly either take him
to or bring up to him, and permit him to nose around
it and smell it until he is satisfied it is harmless. For
instance, before making any attempt to put on the
halter, take it in your left hand and let him smell it;
then buckle it on over his neck. Always be very calm
and quiet in your manner, and talk softly to the horse,
which goes a great way toward getting him accustomed
to your presence.

If, after the halter is on, the colt endeavors to pull
awaj^ my theory is to circumvent him by a little strat-

3

egy; that is, if you cau call it such. Take a common
clothes-line rope and make a large slip-loop knot
around the body, drawing it moderately tight, and pass
the end up between the front legs through the halter.
The reason for doing this is of course very apparent.
He cannot understand how anything can pull the hind
part ot his body and his head at the same time; and
on feeling the strain behind, he will go forward, and
thus you will accomplish your object without being
compelled to use force. Taking this rope in the right
hand and standing directly in front of the colt, say, in
a decided manner: "Come here," and at the same
time pull the rope sharply. He will invariably move
forward, and when he does so, caress him. Repeat
this operation two or three times, until he will quickly
move forward when you say "Come here."

Then with this rope hitch him to the manger or to a
post, and, standing in front of him, open and shut um-
brellas, shake buffalo robes and beat tin pans, in fact,
make as much noise and confusion as possible without
touching him. Of course he cannot think of two
things at once, and the rope, tied around him behind,
catches him by surprise, and he will end by giving up
trying to get away when he finds that he is freer from
pain when he is quiet and still than when jerking his
head. For a very nervous horse put the rope as far
forward as possible around the body. This treatment
can be applied until he is thoroughly halter-broke*
The same arrangement is the most successful one in

4

existence for halter-pullers, and is also a most valuable
assistant in leading a horse behind a wagon. How
many people are at their w^its' ends continually when
on a long ride with a horse tied to the carriage be-
hind!— and yet this simple invention would prevent it
all, and they would not be obliged to even give the
horse a thought.

The next lesson to be given to the colt should be the
harnessing. First, put on the open bridle with the
straight bar bit, and run the lines back through the
thillstraps. Then teach the colt to turn to the right
and to the left, and to stop at the word whoa. These
lessons should never be longer than an hour each, and
generally only two a day. Check-reins I do not ap-
prove of, as, in my judgment, if a horse is born into
this world without style, you cannot help the matter
any by forcing him intq it until you have thoroughly
trained him to drive. Then put on your check-reins
and take him up gradually, elevating his head only to
a natural position.

I believe a colt should be first broke wlien about a
year old, but never worked in a vehicle until at lea^t
five years of age; and it is my opinion, that a great
many of our horses are almost ruined, or at least
greatly decreased in value by being broken too young.
Any good practical man, with good judgment, can
break a colt; yet he must never get impatient but bear
in mind that a colt is just like a child learnifig his A.
B. C. All colts, of course, cannot be handled alike

and, as perhaps you have already inferred from the
preceding, should each be handled according to his
nature, and the common sense of the trainer should
indicate the most advisable course to pursue.

THE DOUBLE SAFETY ROPE.

In breaking horses that are kickers or runaways I
use the ''Double Safety Rope." In case some of you
may not have the surcingles and different appliances
that I use, I will explain how you can use what you
have near at hand. Take a common harness and put on
the horse an open bridle and lines. Run the latter
back through the thill straps, the same as in driving a
colt. Next take two straps, with a ring in each one,
and buckle around the front limbs j ust above hoof.
Take about a one-half or five-eighths inch cotton rope
twenty feet long and fasten one end through the ring
in strap on near foot, and pass the other end over the
belly-band of the harness; down through the ring of
the off front foot and back over the belly-band of har-
ness again. Now take the rope back with the lines

6

and start the horse. The moment he starts to kick or
run you can test the control you have over his front
feet by simply pulling tightly on the rope you hold in
your left hand. This will, of course, bring him to his
knees and render him powerless to get away, unless
you permit him to by loosening the rope.

In thirty minutes the most vicious runaway or
plunger will be completely subdued by this treatment.
I also use this rope on horses afraid of bicycles, cars,
fire-crackers, etc., as well as driving over paper or
going past top carriages. It is impossible for the
horse to turn around with you, for as he does so just
tighten the rope and he is on his knees. Loosen the
rope and he is on his feet again. In manipulating
this rope on the road I use knee pads made in the fol-
lowing manner : Take a piece of felt about six inches
one way and twelve inches the other, and in the mid-
dle of it sew on a piece of leather in the shape of the
horse's knee. Have a strap fastened to the top of this
felt, and a strap to buckle on the bottom. Buckle
these on the horse's front knees and you have a pair of
knee pads that will answer every purpose. They can
be bought, however, of any regular harness dealer.

HOW TO RIDE A COLT.

When you want a colt to start do not touch him on
the side with your heel, or do anything to
frighten and make him jump. At once
speak to him kindly and if he does not start, pull
him a little to the left until he does so, then let

7
him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk
him around in the stable a few times until he gets
used to the bit; you can turn him about in every di-
rection and stop him as you please. It will be well to
get on and off a good many times, until he gets per-
fectly used to it, before you take him out of the stable.
After you have trained him in this way, which should
not take more than two or three hours, you can ride
him anywhere j^ou choose without ever having him
jump or make an effort to throw you.

When you first take him out ot the stable, be very
gentle with him, as he will feel a little more at liberty
to jump or run, and be easier frightened than he was
while in the stable; but will nevertheless find him
prett}- well broke, and will be able to manage him
without trouble or danger.

When you first mount a colt, take a little the short-
est hold on the left rein, so that if anything frightens
him you can prevent him from jumping by pulling his
head round to you.

This operation of pulling a horse's head around
against his side, will prevent him from jumping ahead,
rearing up or running away. If he is stubborn and
will not go, you can make him move by pulling his
head round to one side, when whipping him would
have no effect. Turning him around a few times will
make him dizzy, and then by letting him have his head
straight, and giving him a little touch with the whip,
he will go along without any trouble.

TO EDUCATE A HORSE NOT TO GET CAST IN
THE STALL

Drive a staple in the ceiling over the manger at the
side of the stall ; then another in the ceiling in the
center of the stall over the horse's head ; pass a small
cord through the staple at the side of the stall, tie a
horseshoe, or the weight of a horseshoe so that the
cord will not draw through the staple, then put the
cord through the staple in the center of the stall,
bring it down within two and one-half feet of the
floor and cut it off, attaching a snap to the end,
place a ring in the halter at the top of the head,
in the center, as seen in the engraving. Now
when his head raises up the weight comes down ;
when his mouth is on the floor he can lie down with
ease, but he cannot get the top of his head to the
floor, and if he cannot get the top of his head to the
floor he cannot roll, and if he cannot roll he cannot
get cast. This remedy'is as simple as it is certain and
is always perfectly safe.

HORSE BAD TO BRIDLE.

Horses become unwilling to be bridled from various

9

causes, sometimes from sores on the head or ears,
sometimes from hurriedly and improperly removing the
bridle, and sometimes from sheer ugliness of disposi-
tion, prompted by a desire to be master. The treat-
ment in these cases should be varied. In the latter
case named it will be necessary to la}^ the animal down
and while thus under control handle his head and
ears, after which put your bridle on and off several
times, exercising patience and being careful to avoid
anything like roughness. Should he resist, punish
him in the mouth, using your best judgment to avoid
severity, and so soon as he submits, caress. As to the
former, where a dislike to be bridled arises from abuses
kindness must govern the conduct of the educator.
By using my Bonaparte bridle you wall be able to con-
trol and counteract all predisposition to resist your
efforts in a very short time. Should there be sores
about the animars head you had better restore to
soundness before you attempt to educate to comply
with your wishes.

TAKING UP A HORSE'S FRONT FEET.

How many times I have been in blacksmith shops

10

and livery stables and seen people go at a horse to
make him take his feet up by pulling on the fetlock,
etc. Now let me give you an easy plan. If it is the
nigh foot that you wish place your left hand on the
shoulder and the right hand on the horse's limb.
Press in with the left hand at the shoulder and quickly
his foot will come from the floor ! How simple I
and yet why have you not done it before?

MY SIMPLE RIDING BRIDLE.

Take a piece of rope seven feet long ; lay the mid-
dle of this rope on the top of the horse's head, pass it
down the sides of his face and cross through his
mouth ; bring ends back and your bridle is completed.
This bridle is inexpensive, the cost being less than one
cent. If you are out in the country and have a good
sharp knife, somebody's clothes line wiJl answer the
purpose very well.

RIDING BRIDLE FOR KICKERS.

I will now describe a valuable riding bridle for kick-
ers : Take a piece of rope twelve feet long, double or
rather treble it making a three ply rope. Now take
vthe rope, make a half-hitch and tie it at each end.
Then take the rope and pass it through a loop to out.
side and same with the other. These three ropes at
the top of this bridle, pull forward as a brow band,
and the two ropes that are across each other go into the
horse's mouth. This bridle can be put over or under
your ordinary bridle, and it is impossible for any horse

11

to run away with it on. For riding purposes reverse
the bridle right around, placing three cords in his
mouth instead of two.-

TO BREAK HORSE AFRAID OF AN UMBRELLA OR
BUFFALO BOBS.

Place on his head my new training bridle. Present
the umbrella or buffalo robe, allowing him to vSmell of
it; then rub it across his nose and head; open it gent-
ly, at the same time allow him to smell of it several
times; work gently till he becomes reconciled to it,
and in a few lessons you will be able to use the um-
brella in any place around him.

HANDLING WILD MUSTANGS.

In throwing a wild mustang a lasso is used, the loop
being placed upon the ground and the animal either be-
ing led or driven so that his front feet are within the
loop. You then pull the loop quickly together,
which brings the animal's forward feet together, and
immediately throwing him down by a side pull on the
rope, you can then go to work and put on the neces-
sary appliances to break him, before letting him to
his feet. In handling vicious horses we very often

12

come across one that is impossible to approach or
catch. In such cases we resort to the Lasso, some-
times called a Lariat or Riata, which is used on the
western plains by the cow boys in catching wild
horses and cattle.

TO START A BALKY HORSE.

I am continually being asked how to move a balky
horse. I wish to say I have never j^et seen one, but
have seen a great many balky drivers; that is to say
the horse, by bad management on the part of the driver
is educated to balk. Now when a horse has this
habit, in order to break him of it you must first get
him under control. After getting the horse to obey
every command you give him, hitch him to a light
vehicle. If he obeys, reward him ; if not, and he
does wrong, punish him. After this you can use any
treatment that you see fit. I lay down no fixed rul'e,
as there are no two horses that can be handled by the
same process. A few lessons given by a man of intel-
ligence will have a gresft effect.

TO EDUCATE A COLT NOT TO BE AFRAID OF HIS
HEELS.

Too much importance cannot be attached to the
manner of educating a horse's heels, as it is in that
point his greatest means of defense and resistance lies,
and most men make the mistake of breaking one end
of the horse, while they allow his hind parts to go un-
educated. The instructions I am about to give will,
if properly followed, insure success.

Alter laying your colt ^ down, commence to handle
his hind parts and heels, being careful to hold the cord
firmly in your left hand, so that if he attempts to get
up you can control him, then strike him gently with a
Stick, and if he should show fear, which he naturally

13
will, punish him in the mouth; then place the stick
between his legs and commence moving it around, and
if he makes no resistance, remember to caress him ;
almost as much is accomplished by caressing as by
punishing.

The above instruction is equally applicable to a
kicking horse, but in his education he will require
more lessons before the habit will be entirely removed;
still kindness and a little patience will soon accomplish
all you desire.

Men in general exercise too little patience in the
training of their colts, and they frequently expect to
accomplish more in a short space of time than can pos-
sibly be performed. Yet the time really required,
when measured by days, is so short as to really be sur-
prising. Let us suppose that in training a colt one
were, to spend two hours a day for ten da5^s, which is
the longest time that could possibly be needed ; com-
pute the time at ten hours to the day, and the whole
amounts to but two days, at the end of which he would
have a well educated animal. I doubt if a farmer or
horse -raiser could employ his time more profitably in
any other way than in thoroughly educating his colts,
as he thus enhances their value, for there is no sensi-
ble man who would not give fifiy dollars more for a
properly educated animal than for one improperly
trained.

14

TO CURE PAWING AND KICKING IN THE STALL.

For Pawing. — Take a piece of trace chain about
seven inches long, tie to one end a block of wood about
two inches in diameter and six inches long, strap other
end of this chain to front of leg just above knee.
When horse paws the block will rap his shin and
he will not paw over two or three times.

For Kicking in Stall, — Take a piece of elastic, same
as you wear around sleeves, sew vest buckle on one
end. Buckle this (not too tight) above knee-joint,
over leader on hind leg. When horse draws up his
leg to kick, this will cause unpleasant pressure on
leader and he will stop. Do not use leather strap or cord;
use elastic.

To Cure Horse of Jumping and to Keep Breachy
Cattle in Pasture . Tie or fasten around body in front
of barrel close up to fore legs, strap, cord or surcingle.
Put a strap around both fore legs above knee, close up
to shoulder. Make horse stand with both fore feet
close together. Take short rope or strap, fasten one
end in strap on near fore leg, pa ss over surcingle, un-
der belly, and fasten in strap on off fore-leg, draw mod-
erately tight. When this is on the honse can move
one leg at a time, so as to walk, lay down, or get up,
but cannot put forward both legs at once so as to run or
jump.

LADIES' EQUESTRIAN HORSEMANSHIP.

The saddlery for the use of the ladies is similar in
principle to that devoted to gentlemen's riding, with
the exception that the bits and reins of the bridle are
lighter and more ornamental and the saddle furnished
with crutches for side riding; the reins are narrower
than those used by the gentlemen, but otherwise the

15

same. The saddle should be ca refuUy fitted to the
horse and there should always be a third crutch, the
use of which will hereafter be explained. There is an

extra leather girth, which keeps the flaps of the saddle
in their places. The stirrup may be either like a man's
with a lining of leather or velvet, or it may be a slipper
which is safer and also easier to the toot. The lady's
whip is a light affair, but as her horse ought seldom to
require punishment, it is carried more to threaten than
to give punishment. A spur may be added for a lady's
use; it is sometimes needful for i he purpose of giving
a stimulus at the right moment. If used, it is buckled
on to the boot, and a small opening is made in the habit
with a string attached to the inside, which is then tied
around the ankle and thus keep the spur always pro-
jecting beyond the folds of the habit. A nose martin-
gale is generally added for ornament; but no horse
which throws his head up is fit for ladies' use. The
ladies horse ou^ht to be a most perfect goer, instead of

16

being, as it often is, a stupid brute, fit only tor a dray.
Many men think that any horse gifted with a neat
outline will carry a lady; but it is a great mistake;
and if the ladies themselves had the
choice of horses they would soon decide to the
contrary. The only thing in their favor, in choosing
a lady's horse, is that the weight to be carried is
generally light, and therefore a horse calculated to
carry them is seldom fit to mount a man, because the
weight of the male sex is generally so much above that
of an equestrian lad5^ Few of this sex who ride are
above one hundred and thirty pounds and most are
below that weight But in point of soundness, action,
mouth and temper, the .lady's horse should be unim-
peachable. A gentleman's horse may be good yet
wholly unable to canter and so formed that he cannot
be taught; he therefore, is unsuited to a lady; but, on
the other hand, every lady's horse should do all his
paces well. Many ladies, it is true, never trot, but
they should not be furnished with the excuse that they
cannot because their horses will not. In size, the lady's
horse should be about fifteen hands or from fourteen
and a half to fifteen and a half; less than this allows
the habit to trail in the dirt, and more, makes the
horse too lofty and unwieldy for a lady's use. In
breaking a lady's horse, if he is of good temper and
fine mouth, little need be done to make him canter
easily, and with the right leg foremost. This is
necessary, because the other leg is uncomfortable to

17
the rider from her side position on the saddle. The
breaker, therefore, should adopt the means elsewhere
described and persevere until the horse is quite accus-
tomed to the pace, and habitually starts off with the
right leg. He should also bend him thoroughly, so
as to make him canter well on his hind legs and not
with the disturbed action which one so often sees.
The curb must be used for this purpose, but without
bearing too strongly upon it. The horse must be
brought to his pace by fine handling rather than by
force, and by occasional j)ressure, which he will yield
to and play with if allowed, rather than by a dead pull.
In this way, by taking advantage of every inch
yielded, and yet not going too far, the head is gradu-
ally brought in and the hind legs as gradually
are thrust forward, so as instinctively to 'Steady
the mouth and prevent the pressure which is feared.
When this "sitting on the haunches" is accomplished
a horse cloth may be strapped on the near side of the
saddle to accustom him to the flapping of the habit;
but I have always found in an ordinary good tempered
horse, that, if the paces and mouth were all perfect,
the habit is sure to be borne.

It is a kind of excuse which gentlemen are too apt
to make that their horses have never carried a lady;
but if they carry a gentleman quietly they will always
carry a lady in the same style, though they may not
perhaps be suitable to her seat or hand. The direc-
tions for holding the reins, and for their use, elsewhere

18

giveu, apply equally well to ladies, the only difference
being that the knee prevents the hand being lowered
to the pommel of the saddle. This is one reason why
the neck requires to be more bent for the gentleman's
use, because, if it is straight, or at all ewe-necked, the
hands being high raise the head into the air and make
the horse more of a "star gazer'' than he otherwise
would be. Many ladies hold the reins as in driving.
It is in some respects bett r. because it allows the
hand to be lower than the gentlemai-a's mode, and the
ends of the reins fall better over the habit. In mount-
ing, the horse is held steadily, as for a gentleman's
use, taking care to keep him well up to the place where
the lady stands, from which he is very apt to slide
away. The gentleman assistant then places his right
hand on his right kne^, or a little below it, and receives
the lady's left foot. Previously to this she should have
taken the rein in her right hand, which is placed on
the middle crutch, then, with her left hand on the
gentleman's shoulder and her foot in his hand, she
makes a spring from the ground and immediately stifif-
ens her left leg, using his hand, steadied by his knee,
as a second foundation for a spring, and then she is
easily lifted to her seat by the hand following, and
finishing her spring with what little force is required.
As she rises the hand still keeps hold of the crutch,
which throws the body sideways on the saddle, and then
she lifts her right knee over the middle crutch. After
this, she lifts herself from the saddle, and the gentle-

19

man draws her habit from under her until smooth,
he then places her left foot in the stirrup, including
with it a fold of her habit, and she is firmly seated,
and should take her reins and use them as directed for
the gentleman. The great mistake which is constantly
made in mounting is in the use of the lady's knee
which should be carefully straightened the moment it
can be effected, for if kept bent it requires a great
power to lift a lady into the saddle, whereas, with a
good spring and a straight knee, she ought to weigh
but a few pounds in the hand. The lady 's seat is very
commonly supposed to be a weak one, and to depend
entirely upon balance; but this is the greatest possible
mistake, and there can be no doubt, from what is seen
in private as well as in the circus, that it requires as
great an eflort of the horse to dislodge a good female
rider as to produce the same effect upon a gentleman.
Even with the old single crutch there was a good hold
with the leg, but now that the third is added, the grip
is really a firm one. When this is not used the crutch
is laid hold of by the right leg and pinched between
the calf of the leg and the thigh, so as to afford
a firm and steady hold for the whole body, especially
when aided by the stirrups. But this latter sup-
port merely preserves the balance, and is usei'ul
also in trotting. It does not at all give a firm steady
seat, though it adds to one already obtained by the
knee. When two crutches are used, the leg is brought
back so far as to grasp the crutch as before, but be-

20

tween the knees the two crutches are firmly laid hold
of, the upper one being under the right knee and the
lower one above the left. The right knee hooked over
the crutch keeps the body from slipping backwards,
while the left keeps it from a forward motion, and thus
the proper position is maintained. In all cases the
right foot should be kept back and the point of the toe
should scarcely be visible. These points should be
carefully kept in view by all lady riders, and they
should learn as soon as possible to steady themselves
by the grasp of the crutches without reference to the
stirrup-iron. In spite of her side seat, the body
should be square to the front, with the elbow easily
bent and preserved in its proper position by the same
precaution. The whip is generally held in the right
hand, with the lash pointing forward and towards the
left, and by this position it may be used on any part
of the horse's body by reaching over to the left and
cutting before or behind the saddle, or, with great
ease, on the right side. Its use may, therefore, in all
cases, be substituted lor the pressure of the leg in the
description of the modes of effecting the change of
leg, turning to the left or right, or leading with either
leg. With this substitution, and with the caution
against all violent attempts at coercion, which are bet-
ter carried out by the fine hand and delicate tact of
the lady, all the feats which man can perform may well
be imitated by her. In dismounting the horse is

21
brought to a dead stop, and his head held by an assis-
tant. The lady then turns her knee back again from
the position between the outside crutch, takes her foot
out of the stirrup, and sits completely sideways. She
then puts her left hand on the gentleman's shoulder,
who places his right arm around her waist and lightly
assists her to the ground.

THE AGE OF THE HORSE DETERMINED BY THE AP-
PEARANCE OF 1 HE TEETH.

The safest way of determining the age of a horse is
by the appearance of the teeth, which undergo certain
changes in the course of years. Although it may be
impossible to give any rules which will be found to be
exactly correct in every case, yet the following classifi-
cation is generally correct; but exceptions will occur,
as, for instance, a noble horse may be taken for younger
than he really is, because the strong structure of all
the bones makes the teeth also stronger than those of
a horse of the same age, of an inferior breed.

Eight to fourteen days after birth, the first middle
nippers of the set of milk teeth are cut; four to six
weeks afterwards, the pair next to them; and finally,
after six or eight months, the last.

All these milk teeth have a well-defined body and
neck, and a slender fang, and on their front surfaces
grooves or furrows, which disappear from the middle
nippers at the end of one j^ear; from the next pair in
two years; and from the incisive teeth (cutters) in three
years.

The teeth grow in length as the horse advances in

22

years, but at the same time, his teeth are worn away,
by use, about one-twelfth of an inch every year; so
that the black cavities of the centre nippers below dis-
appear in the sixth year; those of the next pair in the
seventh year; and those of the corner teeth, in the
eighth year. Also the outer corner teeth of upper and
lower jaw just meet at eight years of age.

At nine years old, cups leave the two centre nippers
above and each of the two upper corner teeth has a
little sharp protrusion at the extreme outer corners.

At the age of ten, the cups disappear from the ad-
joining teeth.

At the age of two, the nippers become loose and fall
out; in their places appear two permanent teeth, with
deep, black cavities, and full, sharp edges.

At the age of three the next pair fall out.

At four years old the corner teeth fall out.

At five years old, the horse has his permanent set of
teeth.

At the age of eleven, the cups disappear from the
corner teeth above, and are only indicated by brownish
spots.

The oval form becomes broader, and changes, from
the twelfth to the sixteenth year, more and more into
a triangular form, and the teeth lose, finally with the
twentieth year, all regularity. There is nothing re-
maining in the teeth that can afterwards clearly show
the age of the horse, or justify the most experienced
examiner in giving a positive opinion.

The tushes or canine teeth, conical in shape, with a
sharp point, and curved, are cut between the third and
fourth year; their points become more and more rounded
until the ninth year, and after that, more and more
dull in the course of years, and lose, finally, all reg-
ular shape. Mares have, frequently, no tusks, or
only very faintly indicated.

23
TO DRY UP OLD SORES.

Quarter pound dry white lead ; dust on the place
twice a day. Horses can be worked all the time.
This is simple and good.

FOR EYE WASH.

Two drachms sugar-lead, one half ounce laudanum,
one pint rain water. Bathe the eye above and in the
sockets twice a day.

FOUNDER.

Symptoms. — The horse will stand upon his heels, with
fore feet and legs stretched out as far as he can get
them, so as to throw the weight oiFas much as possible;
and he can scarcely be made to move. The horse has
fever and considerable constitutional disturbance, in
the acute form of the disease .

Treatment Give ten drop doses of tincture of aconite
every three hours for five doses, soak the front feet in hot
water with two tablespoonfuls of washing soda in it
for an hour at a time, twice a day; after each soak-
ing apply poultices of cold water and bran, feed the
horse on warm bran mash, and if the bowels are cos-
tive drench with one pint of flax seed oil and one-half
ounce of oil of sassafras.

TO STOP BLOOD.

Swab the wound with Nonsel's Solution of Iron.

FOR POLL-EVIL.

Take young shellbark hickory about as thick as

your wrist, prickly ash roots the same quantity, red
oak bark the same ; burn all together ; take the ashes

24

and make in a lye ; boil down till dry, then pulverize ;
put as much as will lay on a dime in a small piece of
tissue paper and put down in the pipes. Keep the
bowels open. A sure cure.

CONDITION POWDERS. No. 1.

Gentian, fenugreek, sulphur, saltpetre, cream of

tartar, of each two ounces ; resin, black antimony, of
each one ounce ; ginger, liquorice, three ounces each;
cayenne one ounce, pulverized and mixed thoroughly.
Dose, one tablespoonful once or twice a day, mixed
with the food. Used with good success for coughs,
colds, distemper, hide-bound, and nearly all diseases
for which condition powders are given.

REMEDY FOR COLIC AND BELLY-ACHE.

Take one half ounce of laudanum, two ounces of
essence peppermint, two ounces sweet nitre, one ounce
capsicum, and ten drops tincture of aconite. Mix with
one pint of whisky and give half this amount as a dose.
If not well in ten minutes, give the other half. Cover
the horse with blankets and do not move him.

TO FATTEN OLD HORSES.

One-half gallon alcohol, one quart brewer's yeast,
one quart buckwheat flour, two drachms tincture can-
tharides, four ounces soda ; put in a jug and let it
stand six days and it is fit for use. Dose one teacup -
ful two or three times a day on soft food.

NASAL GLEET.

No. I. — Copperas, two ounces ; pulverized gentian,
three ounces ; elecampane, i ounce ; linseed meal,

25
three ounces. Mix and give from a half to one table-
spoonful twice a day.

TO GROW HAIR.

Mix sweet oil, one pint ; sulphur three ounces. Rub
twice^a week.

THRUSH.

This is a very disagreeable discharge of offensive
matter from the cleft of the frog, by which pus is se-
creted together with or in place of horn. If the frog
is sound the cleft runs but a very little way into it, but
by contraction or other causes, the cleft will penetrate
to the sensitive sole within. Through this fissure the
discharge proceeds. It may be caused by bruises or
filth, and can be distinguished from any other disease
by the offensive smell.

CURE.— Cleanse the parts aff"ected with castile soap

and water. Apply chloride of zinc thoroughly or

crystalized carbolic acid. Repeat every day until

relieved. Keep the horse on dry floor. When the

acid or zinc is fit to use dilute with one ounce of soft

'water.

FOR LUNG FEVER.

Symptoms. — Cold, clammy sweat, distended nostrils,
hard breathing, soreness of chest opposite lungs,
legs cold below the knees, thirsty, but cannot drink.
The disease is occasioned by changing the horse from
warm to cold stabling. CURB- — Give one ounce sweet
spirits of nitre, one ounce compound tincture of lav-
ender,one ounce laudanum. Feed no hay, but feed soft

26 ' ■'

food. Blister all around the chest opposite the lungs
with two ounces spirits of ammonia, two ounces spirits
of turpentine, two ounces tincture cantharides, one
ounce sweet oil ; mix and use with sponge or woolen
rag. Don't bleed or death may likely ensue. If the
pulse is too quick take two drachms of digitalis and
two drachms of tartar emetic ; mix in six powders and
give one every four hours until the heart is quiet,
when stop. Give the water off slippery elm bark to
drink, with the chill broke. Rub the legs with cay-
enne pepper and alcohol. Blanket well and let him
breathe the fresh air. This is a very valuable recipe.

RECIPE FOR SWELLINGS.

Double handful eachmullen leaves, May apple roots,
poke root, one gallon water; boil and add double
handful salt ; apply as warm as the hand can bear it.

FOR FITS.

This is caused by an overflow of blood from the
heart to the brain, which causes concussion. Bleed
through the nose, then give tablespoonful cleansing
powder twice a da}^ on bran mash, then the restora-
tive liquid; keeps the bowels open.

TO STOP HEAVES QUICKLY.

Three eggs, two drachms lobelia, one pint vinegar,
two drachms alum, mix altogether, divide in three
doses and give one every morning. This is not
permanent but good to trade on.

27
JAUNDICE OR YELLOW WATER.

Symptoms. — Hair of mane and tail loose, eyes yellow,
bars of moutli swollen, right fore leg lame. Give
physic, then cleansing powders. Don't bleed and you
will save your horse.

FLATULENT COLIC.

One ounce each tincture asafoetida, laudanum,
tincture camphor, two drachms spirits turpentine, one
pint whisky, mix and drench; then give one and a
half ounces soc. aloes, two drachms asafoetida, two
drachms calomel; make in ball, pull out tongue and
give.

FOR LICE ON CATTLE, HORSES AND HOGS.

Two drachms cuckle berries, one quart of water;
boil together and apply with a sponge or woolen rag.
Be careful as this is poison.

RECIPE FOR LINIMENT.

Two ounces each of oil origanum, laudanum, oil of
sassafras, tincture camphor, oil cedar, spirits ammonia,
spirits turpentine, sweet oil, one gallon alcohol. Good
for swelling, burns, etc.

SPASMODIC COLIC, CRAMPS, but no SWELLING.

The horse refuses to feed, paws with his fore feet,
tries to kick his belly with his hind feet, looks around
at his side, gets excited,kicks and rolls, sweats freely.
Give \ pint warm ale or porter, with teaspoonful of
ginger, or half pint of whisky and tablespoonful of es-
sence of peppermint; if not relieved give an ounce of

28

laudanum, 2 ounces sweet spirits of nitre in half pint
water; repeat either dose every hour.

PHYSIGING.

Barbadoes aloes is the best purgative, being always
sure and safe. The dose, with the horse prepared by
bran mashes, would vary from five to seven drachms,
the latter sufficient for any horse. You can dissolve
in warm water, and give as a drench, or make it into
a ball with linseed oil, and lay upon the roots of the
tongue, letting go of the tongue at the same time.

The next best purgative is the croton nut; the fatina
or meal of the nut is used. It should be made in-
to a ball with linseed oil. Give from a scruple to
half a drachm, according to the state of the subject. It
acts more speedily than aloes, but causes more debility,
lyinseed oil is uncertain, but safe in doses from a pound
to a pound and a half. It leaves the horse in very
good condition.

Cure for Cough. 2 ounces pine tar, 4 ounces honey.
I ounce pDwdered Irish mass, mix and give teaspoonful
night and morn on tongue.

TO TRADE ON WHEN A HORSE HAS THE HEAVES.

Two ounces each of gentian, Spanish brown, resin;
lobelia, and one-half pound Jamaica ginger; mix one
tablespoonful three times a day. This is good to trade
•on, but is not a cure.

FOR WORMS.

One ounce each calomel, copperas, gentian, fenu-

29

greek; mix one tablespoonful twice a day on soft food
for three days, then physic. A sure cure; or handful
cut dry tobacco mixed with food twice a week.

TO ENLIVEN AN OLD HORSE AND MAKE HIS HAIR
LAY NICE.

One ounce each of oil cloves, oil rosemary, oil sassa-
fras, oil wintergreen, tincture cantharides, two ounces
tincture asafoetida, four ounces alcohol; mix and give
ten drops in pail of water. This will give life to all
that is not dead.

FOR SCRATCHES

One ounce sugar lead, one ounce burnt alum, half
ounce sulphate zinc, one quart rain water; wash off
clean with castile soap and water; let dry and apply
the liquid for three or four days. A sure cure, if not
grease heel.

BLOODSPAVIN OR PUFFS.

Two ounces each oil origanum, oil hemlock, tincture
of camphor, spirits turpentine, tincture cantharides,
tincture iodine, four ounces alcohol; mix and apply.
This is an excellent article if properly used.

GREASE HEEL.

Bleed one gallon, physic; then give the cleansing
powders; then use the ointment, one ounce each, blue
vitriol, copperas, sugar lead, resin, two ounces spirits
turpentine, four ounces sheep fellow, one pound hog's
lard; make in a salve; wash the sores and then use the
ointment. Wash off all clean every third day till cured.

80

BUTTON FARCY.

First physic; then give the following powders: One
ounce each of gentian, foenugreek, rhubarb, calomel,
saltpetre, flour sulphur; half pound Jamaica ginger;
mix one tablespoonful twice a day; wash off the sores
and dust arsenic in to eat out the rotten flesh. Keep
on light food — bran mash.

TO CURE CORNS.

Cut the horn well down, but not to the quick ; fit

the shoe so that it will not press upon the part, then
saturate well with pine sap or gum, which is found
exuding from pine trees when cut. Fill the part in
nicely with tow and put on the shoe, which must be
so fitted as not to oblige the part to support but very
slightly, if any, the weight of the horse. Horses with
corns must be oftener and more carefully shod than
those free from them.

SCOURS.

This is a disease which requires no description- —
you will know it when it comes. It is the same as
cholera in a man, but is very easy to manage. In a
warm climate it is very dangerous, as two-thirds of the
horses taken with it die in three or four days.

Cure). — Boil red or. white oak bark to a strong ooze;
put two tablespoonfnls of cream of tartar to one quart
of decoction; give to drink or as a drench — then use
the bark water for injection. Keep this up until the .
purging is stopped, then give a mash of scalded wheat
bran twice a day. Give no hay or grain, or you will
cause a relapse. He will have a good appetite, but be
very careful for several days, and when you commence
feeding, feed very light. A positive cure.

31

GREASE.

In may cases, swelled leg, although distinct from
grease, degenerates into it. This disease is inflamma-
tion of the skin of the heels and very seldom comes on
the fore legs. The skin of the heel has a peculiar
greasy feeling, and when inflamed, the secretion 6f
this greasy matter is stopped. The heels become red,
dry and scurvy, and being so much in motion, they
very soon crack, and sometimes ulceration and fungus
will extend over the whole heel. They should be
washed with soap and water, and relieved of all the
hard substance that they can by soaking; then wipe
dry, and sprinkle pulverized verdigris; this will dry
up. But when the heels are/^adly cracked and ulcer-
ation has commenced it will be necessary to poultice
them with linseed oil, or, if not at hand, carrots boiled
soft and mashed fine; this is a good poultice for any
inflamed part.

When inflammation and pain have gone, and there
is a healthy discharge of matter, dress with an oint-
ment of one ounce of resin, two ounces of honey in
the comb, two ounces of lard, and one ounce of caliman
powder; this cools and heals very fast. If the fungus
is not entirely gone, wash with two drachms of blue
vitriol in a pint of water. It is well to give a mild diu-
retic every third day— one tablespoonful of pulverized
resin in a ball of bran mash. Mash the horse while
treating for this. Sassafras tea is good for him. If
the legs swell after they are healed, bandage every
night, and give moderate walking exercise. Give a

32

slight purge of linseed oil or Barbadoes aloes.

For all slints, bruises, and swelling of the limbs, use
thoroughwort and muUen, steeped and applied as hot
as possible, with bandages.

The horse's pulse beats from thirty-six to forty -four
per minute in health; ninety feet of distentions, thirty
feet of large and sixty feet of small; stomach said to
hold about twenty-four quarts. It varies with the size
of the horse.

STOCKED OR SWOLLEN LEGS.

This is caused by sudden heats and colds.

Clre. — Bathe the legs from the hoof to the knee,
in as hot water as he will bear, and then bandage
them; the hot water opejis the pores and thins the
blood, that has become thick, and will not circulate
well. Make a strong tea of sassafras roots, and give it
to drink. If not easily procured, give as purge one
pint of linseed or castor oil, half an ounce of oil of
sassafras. Feed light, give bran mash wnth one table-
spoonful of cream tartar for a few nights.

FISTULA OR POLL EVIL BEFORE BREAKING.

One ounce each sal-ammoniac, turpentine, oil ori-
ganum, oil cedar, tincture cantharides, four ounces al-
cohol; mix and bathe parts twice a day.

FISTULA AFTER BREAKING.

Half ounce each corrosive sublimate, calomel, blue

vitriol; mix and put as much as will lay on the point
of a knife blade in a soft piece of tissue paper and put
down as far as possible in the pipes; give a good physic
and feed the cleansing powders. A sure cure.

ON THE TRAINING OF HORSES FOR TROTTING.

The horse should be in good flesh. He should be
driven moderately, with walking exercise every morn-
ing of about five miles, f Before going into quarters,
give him a brush, for oiie hundred yards, at the top of
his speed, ard one or two miles of moderate driving,
sufficient to sweat him; then rub dry with rubbing rags,
light rubbing is the best, just enough to dry the hair.
Hard rubbing on the bones or cords causes soreness.
Rub the flesh and muscles well to harden them. When
driving to sweat, put on two thick woolen blankets,
and drive at full speed two miles. Then turn down
the hood, or neck cover, and scrape the head and neck
well, and rub dry; then cover dry, and continue the
same over the whole body, rubbing lightly and only
enough to dry the hair. Then put on nice dry cover-
ing, and let him stand. Sweating often in this way
will weaken; it should be done but seldom.

Their food and drink should be of the purest kind;
sift their oats free from all dust, and dust their hay
too. Give about a handful at a feed, morning and noon
and about twice that at night. From twelve to sixteen
quarts of oats would be a great plenty per day — twelve
would be plenty for the majority. Give one gallon of
water in the morning. The same at noon. At night
give two gallons of water, and a peck of oats, with
treble the quantity of hay. You should not exercise
any horse on a full stomach, for then fast work hmders
digestion. Grain, lying undigested in the stomach,
generates a gas by fermentation, which sets the bots at
work, and gives colic. Indigestion is the cause of
many diseases, and can be avoided by adhering to the
directions for feeding, watering and driving, given in
the first part of this book. If he is bound up, and you
wish to physic, given bran mashes.

Prof. NORTON B. SMITH,

EMPEROR OE Al,l,

!S aloes.
*of the limb-

One o

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i

1YII.D AND TICIOUS HORSES

HANDLED

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