VEGECULTURE

HARRY A. DAY. RR.H.S.

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VEGECULTURE

BY THE SAME AUTHOR
SPADE-CRAFT

VEGECULTURE

HOW TO GROW VEGETABLES,

SALADS, AND HERBS IN TOWN

AND COUNTRY

BY

HARRY A. DAY, F.R.H.S.

SECOND EDITION

METHUEN & CO. LTD.

36 ESSEX STREET W.C.

LONDON

This Book was First Published - - - May ijth, 1917
Second Edition - -, October, 1917

PREFACE

THE advent of this book occurs at a very auspicious
time. The great European War has been instrumental
in revealing unpleasant facts concerning the nation's
stores of food. The high price and comparative scarcity of
vegetables, for example, has brought home to every one the
loss which is yearly incurred by allowing the ornamental to
overrun and overshadow the importance of the useful. In
many gardens the vegetable quarters appear to exist as painful
necessities rather than first-class adjuncts to the household
and national well-being, by providing healthful food materials.
The pleasure of cutting, cooking, and eating one's own vegetables
is one which the possessor of even the smallest plot of garden
ground may enjoy, despite the limitation thereof ; and I trust this
book may be useful in encouraging and helping many a hitherto
neglected piece of ground to assume an air of prosperity, and
be a source of profit to its cultivator.

I do not pretend to claim anything new so far as general
cultural principles are concerned ; but, wishing to keep on the
practical side, I have adopted the system of grouping together
those vegetables possessing cultural affinity, rather than an
arrangement based upon botanical, alphabetical, or other formal
considerations. Such grouping of subjects, too, facilitates and
assists the selection of vegetables for a correct rotation of crops
and the choosing of suitable subjects for the quality, consistency,
and position of the soil at command. As both these con-
siderations have a most important bearing upon the successful
growing of vegetables, a system of groups that indicates plainly
the calibre and manner of growth of any vegetable should prove
most useful to the cultivator.

I have introduced to notice some vegetable products which
are, as a rule, but imperfectly understood and rarely cultivated
in any serious quantity with an eye to general utilization as an
addition to food supplies ; and in doing this, I do not wish to

vi VEGECULTURE

be guilty of alluring gardeners from the straighter and more
useful paths of ordinary vegetable culture into those which
may prove somewhat uncertain, misty, and unprofitable.
However, while much valuable time and material can be wasted
in experiment and trial, there is no reason why a moderate
indulgence in " new " vegetables of repute should not be under-
taken by anyone who has sufficient room to spare and time and
means to afford all that may be required in special culture.
Some of these almost unknown and usually untried subjects
are real delicacies, and worthy of serious attention ; others,
again, have to be very well grown if they are to successfully
appeal to popular taste ; yet the very same thing may easily
have been said of the Potato and Tomato at the time of their
introduction to universal notice.

The points I wish most to emphasize in this volume are :
The urgency of a more serious study of the soil, its composition
and functions ; a better acquaintance with the actual needs of
vegetables in the way of culture, rather than a elementary,
fragmentary, superficial knowledge of the soils, manures, and
general environment they may have affinity for. I grant that
elementary knowledge is useful, but it should be backed up by
a thorough appreciation of scientific basic facts ; for I main-
tain that a studious gardener can, by application of mental
and manual effort, wrest from the most ungrateful, unlikely
soil a fair return — and is it not true that we all have no alter-
native but to make the best of what we possess, rather than
sigh and mourn because we have not the ideal ?

The kitchen-garden is an integral part of household economy.
That fact is insufficiently realized by many a householder whose
chief source of anxiety lies in the upkeep of the domestic equi-
librium. There can be no doubt of this, because, if it were
otherwise, more vegetables would be grown ; even the smallest,
almost hopeless plot of land would be utilized in a laudable
attempt to produce something towards provisioning the home.
I am so impressed with these conditions that I feel I cannot do
better than devote much space in this book to the enlightenment
and encouragement of those who are unfortunately situated,
reviewing the black side as well as the brighter outlook, and
giving equal attention to the favourable and unfavourable.
It is an easy matter to lay down rules where everything seems
perfectly in balance and opportunity is great and advantageous ;
but it is far more interesting — and difficult — to lay down equally
effective rules for adverse circumstances. In this book through-

PREFACE vii

out I have endeavoured to hold impartial balance. I realize
that there are many small contrivances and simple methods
which the possessor of a country garden would pass over with
scorn and contempt, simply because he has no necessity for
their use ; but these same small and simple matters are very
essential to the garden of humble dimensions and limited oppor-
tunities ; and there is no reason why a boon should be withheld
from one section of the community because it may not be
strictly orthodox or conventional. I therefore add anything
which may help to all departments contained in this book,
hoping that someone may find a beneficial use for it.

In order that the reader's view of the whole process of vege-
table culture shall be clear, uninterrupted, and concise, and that
a sure grasp of the prime essentials shall be obtained, I have
relegated such incidentals as recipes, processes, constructions,
definitions, as well as descriptions and explanations of materials,
etc., to an Appendix, which will be found at the end of the
book.

I invite correspondence from any reader in genuine difficulty
or doubt, and will endeavour to assist in solving the problem
thereby indicated.

"Kildare," HARRY A. DAY

Longlands Park Road,
Sidcup, Kent.

CONTENTS

PAG::

PREFACE - - - v.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS - i

I. VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION - 29

II. LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES - 32

III. LEGUMINOUS VEGETABLES - - 45

IV. TUBEROUS-ROOTED VEGETABLES - - "54
V. VEGETABLES IN TRENCHES - - 63

VI. THE CABBAGE FAMILY - -70

VII. THE ONION TRIBE - - 85

VIII. THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS - - 95

IX. MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES - - 113

X. SALADS AND HERBS - 121

I. — Salads and Salad Herbs - - 122

II. — Vegetable-Herbs - - 131

III. — Flavouring Herbs - - 133

IV. — Garnishing and Decorative Herbs - - 139

APPENDIX - - 143

CULTURAL CALENDAR - 147

INDEX - 149

via

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS

/" H AHERE are few books written upon vegetable culture
* that do not emphasize those essential rules which regulate

JL kitchen-garden procedure, i.e. : Better culture, more
space, quality before size, gathering at the best stage, and
improved cookery ; yet there appears to be quite as much
necessity to point to these things persistently as there has been
in the past, for although great improvements exist, much more
could be done in each of these directions. Great credit is due
to the many societies and individuals who have endeavoured
to awaken public interest in vegetable culture ; but a better
understanding as the result of study or acquired interest is
needed to make the growing of vegetables as popular and as
profitable as it ought to be, and can be.

The model kitchen-garden, to my mind, is one that combines
the floral with the vegetable, not forgetting a certain proportion
of fruit to make the garden complete and self-
The Model containing. I do not wish this statement to be
Kitchen- read in the light of the crowded, jumbled mixture
Garden that one so often sees, neither do I claim any
sympathy with the silly vapourings the great war
has induced many to utter concerning the growing of vegetables
in the flower-border. Those who write about or regard the
combination of Cabbages and China Asters with seriousness
have certainly passed beyond the limits of common sense.
That one can with profit grow certain fruits and vegetables in
the floral quarters is quite true ; but the qualities of such
vegetables must always be on the ornamental-utility basis ;
and environment must also be taken into consideration. For
instance — Beet as an edging to a wide border of perennials,
or an occasional specimen as an alternate item in a general
scheme of colour effect ; variegated Kales as a " first line " in
the shrubbery ; an amalgamation of both vegetables in a
general foliage scheme — here we may have the artistic and
useful in perfect agreement and alignment, without destroying
the effect of either, or both. Again, there is a decided advantage

2 I

3 j t. ... ,.; -VEGECULTURE

'to* be secured by tlie 'planting, at wide intervals, of such subjects
as the Tomato, Japanese Cucumber, or Ornamental Gourd,
trained to 4-ft. canes, in the border ; the gain is at once evident
in both the ornamental and useful sense. Trained to a single
stem, and kept within circumscribed limits of height and girth,
these vegetable-fruits would not interfere with the other occu-
pants of the border half as much as a rampant, struggling
perennial flower of doubtful decorative value.

This view relates, of course, principally to the smaller garden,
where space is limited, and a desire exists on the part of the
owner to allot a fair share of such space to the three principal
departments of his garden in turn. A judicious mixture, in
this case, keeping in view the ornamental aspect of the whole,
would be most profitable. The wonder is that some such
system is not generally adopted ! I consider that the reason
for its rarity lies chiefly in the slavish adoption of too severe a
line of demarcation — a too strict dividing-line between the
kitchen- and flower-gardens. That is all very well where ample
space is at the disposal of the cultivator ; but in the small
garden such division is usually the result of a misinterpretation
of certain regulations which may be supposed to govern good
gardening, and a worship of the formal and conventional.

When I have on occasion shown a fine painting or photograph

of flowers, vegetables, or fruits to certain persons, I have been

met with this dictum : "All very fine, but such

Possibilities specimens as these can never be grown in an

versus amateur's garden ! The professional gardener,

Realization who can sit beside his plants and watch them

grow, and coddle them into perfection, has the

advantage of the amateur, and often he has the choice out of

large stock ! These pictures are useless, misleading, impossible ! "

If these individuals could only allow their better judgment
to have fair play, they would perceive that these resplendent,
perfect-petalled flowers, immaculate leaves, shapely vegetables,
and rounded, beautifully-coloured fruits of luscious appearance
are but TYPES — an example, the object of attainment, the
guide and reference-book wherewith to refresh our memory,
the stimulus to back up our energies, the pattern upon which
our ideas are based and worked out through perseverance and
study !

Unfortunately, matters are not always represented in such a
light. Insistence is often placed upon the certainty that, if
suitable seeds are sown, the highest results will be forthcoming.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 3

But there is a wide difference between the nurseryman, seeds
man, and exhibitor, on the one hand, and the cultivator, pro-
ficient or otherwise, on the other. The former group are quite
right in their asseverations : the potentialities are existent in
the subjects — possibilities and probabilities await development;
but the realization often falls far short of expectations in
inexperienced and time-limited hands !

Still, the veriest tyro should never be afraid to aspire even to
the highest, and extremely creditable achievements often result
from careful and persistent endeavour, maybe under adverse
conditions. There are difficulties in every garden, however
perfect and well-balanced ; and it must be the cultivator who
overcomes such difficulties — they are entirely in his hands ;
therefore he must not rely upon the products of the nursery
and seed-bed to accomplish that which only he can do by patient
perseverance and intelligent labour. The ideal garden may not
be within the gardener's reach ; but an appreciable advance
towards it may be made by persistent endeavour.

I am not in entire agreement with the usual practice of
treating the kitchen-garden as if it were a necessary evil instead
of a source of profit and health. It is a snobbish
Vegetables prejudice that would relegate the kitchen-garden
versus to a corner somewhere well out of sight and mind.

Flowers That the vegetable quarters should be divided
in some way from the floral department of the
garden I fully endorse ; but let it be done with justice. I have
visited some kitchen-gardens that are screened from view by a
tall, thick-set, beautifuUy-trimmed hedge of Privet or other
bushes, which has effectually excluded light, air, and a percentage
of moisture from both the vegetable- and flower-gardens, not to
speak of the blood-sucking, life-stealing roots that are draining
away the nutriment intended for the vegetables ! Where the
garden is very large, of course, the walled-in or hedged kitchen-
garden becomes a very proper and permissible affair, because
the ample space ensures full exposure to the life-giving sunshine
and air, and presents no obstacles to the perfect development
of the inmates of such a garden ; but in his cramped space,
the small gardener who allows trees, shrubs, etc., to rob the soil
and throw an unwanted shade over vegetables pining for sun-
shine— just for the sake of formal appearance — is adopting a
suicidal policy.

The only results accruing from such management are seen
in the indifferent vegetables produced, and as often as not the

4 VEGECULTURE

kitchen plot becomes the hidden receptacle for all kinds of
rubbish that is necessary to put out of sight, and is soon trans-
formed into a dust-heap.

Is secrecy concerning vegetables necessary ? " They are so
unlovely! " may be the excuse put forward. Well, let me
point out that the kitchen-garden may be effectively screened
from view — or, rather, the parts of it that may be unsightly —
without recourse to the repressive measures I have indicated.
Vegetables require all the light and air they can get, therefore
the site should be an open one. The judicious planting of
fruit trees — a wise procedure ! — will afford whatever shade may
be required in summer ; and for a screen — there is the Logan-
berry, the Blackberry, cordon fruit-trees, and not too rampant
climbing Roses, which may be profitably employed. Certainly,
screens are often required as a protection against wind, storms,
etc. ; but that is an entirely different matter.

I have studied small vegetable-gardens attached to the
dwelling-house a good deal lately, and I find that much the
same state of things prevail in nearly every case —
The the kitchen-garden is not only planned to exist as

Household far from the house as possible — with which no one
Kitchen- will quarrel — but it is hemmed around and corn-
Garden pletely shut in by the inevitable screen which
divides it from the flower-garden, and contains far
more fruit trees and bushes than the small plot can accommodate.
These latter, it may be conceded, are planted when of small
stature and girth, and it probably never occurs to the planter
that, if not curtailed, those small twigs and slender stems will,
in five years' time, have become increased enormously in every
direction, and that those roots, which can at planting-time be
removed from the ground by a child, will in a surprisingly short
time defy the efforts of the strongest man.

The householder should turn his eyes for a moment to the
allotment. Here is an excellent, practical example of what
the kitchen-garden should be, clothed in a more
The artistic garb. The allotment is rough and ready,

Allotment but intensely productive ; its chief feature and
probable secret of prosperity is its open nature — a
full exposure to sun and air, with free action of wind, rain, and
frost upon the soil — there is nothing whatever to hinder the
beneficent work of every element in its season upon the plot
and the occupants thereof. Here, I contend, we have a model
for the kitchen-garden formation, rough, but productive.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 5

The chief requirements of a small kitchen-garden are : An
open situation ; the provision of a moderate shade in convenient
portions by means of tall-growing vegetables and cordon or
espalier fruit trees and bushes ; naturally shaded ground to
be afforded relief from further shadow, if possible, or used only
for those plants requiring protection from sun or hard weather ;
the drastic elimination of weeds and all superfluous vegetation ;
the frequent use of salt, soot, lime and ashes, to kill and keep
away insects and sweeten the soil ; a well-thought-out laying-
out plan ; and a wise choice of subjects to be grown.

It is astonishing how far the good growth of vegetables in
town — even in city — gardens can be accomplished. Evidence
of this is very public in the case of the Church
Vegetables Army waste-ground allotments in the city of
in Town London. Where the demolition of buiklings have
Gardens taken place, and no further erections substituted,
the bricks, timber, and other debris has been
removed or perhaps piled away in one corner of the piece of
ground, and willing and enthusiastic hands have converted,
in a surprisingly short space of time, the dust-heap into a
smiling garden of vegetables that would do credit to many a
cottager in the heart of the country !

Such successful enterprise must put to shame anyone pos-
sessing a fair amount of garden lying uncultivated and idle!
When one, in passing these allotments, stops for five minutes
to contemplate the neat rows of flourishing vegetables amid a
scene of desolation, and then, in leaving the spot, glances up
at a murky sky, and realizes the presence of a smoky, stifling
atmosphere, only one word seems to fit the situation, and that
is — " Marvellous ! "

I was privileged to see, at the beginning of July, an exhibit
of produce fr^m one of these allotments, at the Royal Horti-
cultural Hall, and it seemed to me an impossibility that such a
collection of vegetables could have been secured from a city
waste-heap so early in the season ! Yet there was no doubt
about it, for I had only to step outside the Hall, and there,
a short distance away, were the very " allotments" from which
the vegetables came, an oasis in the midst of a desert ! l

1 If the reader would like to know more of this unique and successful scheme,
I am sure the Rev. Prebendary W. Carlile, of St. Mary-at-Hill Church, E.G.,
the initiator of the idea and head of the Church Army ; or Mr. H. T. Bennett,
Hon. Sec., 55, Bryanston Street, Marble Arch, W., would be pleased to give
every information.

0 VEGECULTURE

Here, surely, is sufficient encouragement for the town gardener
to attempt something in the way* of vegetable-growing, be it
on only a small, humble scale ! And it may assist the towns-
man in his efforts if some of the pitfalls that may lie in his path
are pointed out, for he will then be enabled to avoid them.
Moreover, these mistakes are not confined to the small garden ;
they occur frequently in gardens blessed with a far superior
environment !

The choice of subjects to be grown is a serious stumbling-
block in many a town or suburban gardener's path — I mean a
wrong choice, a mistaken choice, a pandering to
Choice personal fancy rather than a subservience of all ques-
of tions to actual needs, means, and circumstances.

Subject One can grow one's favourite vegetable if the soil,
situation, and aspect are suited to that vegetable,
or can be made suitable ; otherwise, time and energy expended
in such cultivation is sheer waste and grievous disappointment.
It is far better to accept the inevitable, however disappointing,
and select another vegetable — the nearest approach to the
ideal one which may be impossible to grow successfully. Of
course, there is often much latitude in cultivation, and many
methods of circumventing the difficulties of site and soil, and
if the gardener has a good stock of patience, time, and money
available, he may cheerfully undertake anything in the way
of making circumstances more amenable to desires ; indeed,
if the ground at his disposal is his own — then let him spare no
trouble.

To quote examples of choice of subject : I fail to see the use
of growing vegetables that demand considerable space, such as
Potatoes, Peas, or Celery, with the addition, most likely, of
fruit trees and bushes, in a garden of very small dimensions ;
and yet, again, it is sheer folly to allow a good-sizfed open space
to be monopolized by petty crops of salads or indifferent vege-
tables that would grow equally well, perhaps better, between
rows of more valuable main-crop subjects. In the small garden,
a succession of vegetables, of a kind that will grow quickly,
or the specializing of a couple or so of extra choice vegetables,
should be aimed at. For example, a well-grown head of Cauli-
flower or Broccoli, a sweet " spring " Cabbage, or a few of the
choicer salad-vegetables would be better appreciated from a
small garden than a few pounds of Potatoes. Not that J wish
to decry or ignore the joys of a dish of real " new " Potatoes
from one's own garden ; they are indeed a luxury to be sought

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 7

after ; but here again the small gardener unfortunately com
mits the serious mistake of planting main-crop varieties requiring
long growth, instead of the quickly-developing early sorts, such
as Sharpe's Express, Puritan, or the Ashleaved varieties.

I think much of the trouble centres around that word " early."
In the case of some people, it is really a misnomer, for it is taken
to indicate a class of vegetables, of delicate constitution, fitted
only for the forcing-house or intensive cultivation ; whereas
the " early " sense indicates precocity, quick growth, early
maturity. As vegetables with these qualities are usually small,
they are often looked askance at ; yet they are the most profit-
able of all, for they come into use at a time of scarcity.

Fortunate indeed is the individual who becomes possessed
of a garden wherein soil, site, and aspect combine to produce
the ideal ! Such a garden, unless its extent affords a
The variety of situations from which a choice can be made,
Ideal is a rarity, and greatly to be prized. However, nothing
but good can result from keeping the ideal before us,
as a pattern whereby to weave our garden schemes into some-
thing approaching perfection ; for skilful and intelligent
manipulation can achieve wonders of transformation. A few
words upon the ideal vegetable-garden, therefore, should prove
helpful.

A flat surface is to be preferred for most ordinary crops, but
the sloping portions of the garden may be utilized for hastening
or retarding certain crops. A slope to the south or east, it
may be noted, is far preferable to a slope towards the north.
As the sun is the agent in bringing vegetable life to perfection,
a moderate exposure to sunshine, winter and summer, and a
free current of air, is very necessary. If the ground has no
shelter on the north side, some contrivance to produce one
should be invented. A wall on that side will create a south
border for trained fruits and seed-beds on gentle slopes ; and
this would be favourably situated for sowings to produce crops
that are wanted early in the spring. A slightly elevated and
sloping piece of land, facing the east, moreover, will be
admirably situated for the first crop of early vegetables, and,
indeed, of many other things, for the frost will be melted there
long before it disappears from other parts of the ground.

Trees and shrubs in the immediate vicinity of a garden often
prove injurious by intercepting the sun's rays, and preventing
free circulation of air. To be well placed in all respects, a
garden should haye efficient shelter on the northern and

8 VEGECULTURE

eastern sides ; the south-west being another quarter against

which some protection is oftei\ desirable. Very high and

very low positions are equally unfavourable ; in the

Things first case, the ground is exposed to wintry blasts and

to be the occasional droughts of summer ; and in the second,

Avoided severe frosts, and excessive damp in autumn are

hard to circumvent.

A " border " is a narrow strip of garden soil, as distinguished
from the bulk of ground in the open, running along the garden
fence or wall. In the formation and laying-out
The Utility of the kitchen-garden, whatever the shape, aspect,
of Borders or quality of the soil, it will be found very advan-
tageous to secure one or two narrow borders under
a wall or fence ; or, perhaps, there may be a continuous border
all round — on one side enjoying early sun, and the other side
being shaded. These borders are of great value. In early
spring, when the first sowings of Lettuces, Cabbages, Horn
Carrots, and other early subjects are made, a well-drained border
under a wall is an ideal place for them, especially if it obtains
the morning and mid-day sun. All tender vegetables, sown or
planted a little before the usual time, would do well in such
a position ; and many of these may be safely sown there at a
time when they would surely perish if exposed to the severity
of the weather in the more open ground. The first crop of
Potatoes, and a small but welcome quantity of every summer
vegetable, may be thus obtained a fortnight earlier. From
seed-beds in such a position, plants for future transplantation
may be advantageously raised. The borders exposed to the
north will not be less useful, for the practical gardener will
appreciate a shady spot as much as he does plenty of sun else-
where ; and many subjects may be had late in the season.

The walls and borders, if arranged with a continuous walk
around them, will leave an open space clear for general opera-
tions. Here utility, not fancy, must determine the
General plan or lay-out of the garden. The central portion
Laying- of the ground, then, should first be divided by narrow
Out paths into several square plots, or beds, of soil.

Permanent walks — unless the size of the ground
renders such necessary — are undesirable ; narrow alleys, to be
turned over into garden ground every year and fresh ones made,
should be the procedure ; and no path need be wider than will
allow of a wheelbarrow to pass along it freely. The plots thus
marked out are apportioned to the various vegetables desired

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 9

to be grown, choosing the site to suit the subject, and treating
it accordingly; and the dimensions of each plot will, of course,
coincide with the size of the crop it is intended to carry. These
necessary details being satisfactorily arranged — long before
planting or sowing time — it will be as well to commit the arrange-
ments to paper in the shape of a detailed and descriptive plan.

Much benefit will be derived from an adherence to the usual
and delightfully old-fashioned style of kitchen-garden — that
which combines to produce an artistic admixture of vegetable,
fruit, and flower. This is usually effected by the planting of a
belt of dwarf bush, cordon, or espalier fruits — (regulated by
the extent, shape, and position of the garden) — about four to
six feet from the principal pathways, thus cutting off a service-
able border from the main portion of the vegetable quarters,
which can be utilized with charming effect as a flower-border,
and may also contain herbs and ornamental vegetable subjects.
The path will thus run between two borders — that next the
fence or wall, and the one just indicated. The purposes of the
flower-border are to serve as a screen, a setting, to the some-
what sombre uniformity of the vegetables growing beyond it ;
and also to provide a sweet-smelling, eye-pleasing antidote to
the cruder aspect and perhaps inodorous indispensable adjuncts
of the vegetable quarters. There is much to recommend this
floral border ; and even in the smallest vegetable plot a row or
edging of dwarf or semi-dwarf flowers will be greatly appre-
ciated ; and for such a purpose the Herb section (pages 121-142)
will be found to offer subjects combining both utility and
decoration with a delicious fragrance.

When the general laying-out of the kitchen-garden is com-
pleted to the gardener's satisfaction, attention is next directed
to the preparation and manipulation of the soil ; but the wise
cultivator will first of all make himself acquainted with the
composition, needs, and every characteristic of the earth with
which he has to deal, and from which he expects a fair return
for labour, expense, and thought. And when he has mastered
and thoroughly understands the essential fundamental
principles governing horticultural effort, he will have laid
the foundation of, and made great progression towards, the
ideal garden.1

1 Should fuller information concerning these matters be sought by the reader,
I can do no better than recommend a perusal of my previous book, Spade-
craft, wherein is portrayed in simplest words the detailed fundamentals of ix
garden operations.

10 VEGECULTURE

The most important factor to consider when studying the
formation of the ideal kitchen-gardeti is the composition of the
soil. The perfect soil is undoubtedly a natural
Composition one — a virgin soil, the result of centuries of
of the Soil accumulated deposits of decaying vegetable and
animal matter, sweetened and refined by atmo-
spheric, climatic, and underground influences. The nearest
artificial approach to this virgin soil is that of a garden which
has for many years been subjected to a wise routine of scientific
cultivation, aided, probably, by a natural adaptivity, composi-
tion and situation. But there is many a garden wherein these
favourable conditions do not exist, even to a partial extent ;
and it is in connection with these gardens that the study of the
composition and manipulations of soils becomes most impera-
tively necessary, in order to correct their inherent bad or
indifferent qualities. The ideal soil may be an impossibility
in such cases, but, nevertheless, earnest aspirations towards it
should be indulged in by every gardener.

Soils are composed of minute particles or grains lying more or
less closely together, the interstices between the particles being
filled with either air or moisture, for " Nature abhors a vacuum."
It is from the extent to which air or water predominates that
soils derive their fertility and texture — neither water nor air
in excess being desirable ; and it is also when the two opposing
elements are present in equal balance in the soil-spaces that they
coalesce and form a moist air or vapour, in which the many
chemical constituents of the soil are dissolved. The roots of
plants are furnished with an infinitesimal terminal suction-
mouth, that is capable of absorbing food in large quantities ;
and it will be understood from this fact that no solids, or even
crude liquids, can be taken up by the roots — that all nutriment
absorbed must first be transformed into a moist air or vapour —
a process accomplished by the correct relationship of air to
water in the soil interstices. It will be also readily seen how
greatly the state of the soil affects the food supply of plants
growing therein ; and indications of its correct manipulation
to bring about a congenial medium suited to plant life are
provided by an intelligent consideration of the foregoing facts.
The procedure to be adopted depends upon the kind of soil
one possesses. In cases far removed from the ideal, drastic
means, attended by hard work, will be necessary to bring the
earth into a sufficiently workable consistency; while better
staples, if needing but little alteration, will certainly demand,

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 11

at least, preservation — a fact often forgotten is that soils de-
teriorate !

The principal means of bringing about the happiest state of
affairs in our gardens are draining, digging, manuring, cul-
tivating.

The first operation that is necessary to ensure a fertile soil
is draining the land — facilitating the quick passage of surplus
water naturally present in the earth, as well as
Drainage rain-water and artificial liquid applications, to the
lower depths, at the same time conserving a
sufficiency for the needs of plant life near the surface. It is
a mistake to suppose that draining the land means the abstrac-
tion of every ounce of liquid from the soil ; on the contrary,
the operation, properly performed, causes wet land to become
dry, and vice versa, all other conditions being normal. This
is a paradox, but of most easy solution. The withdrawal of
excessive moisture from the land by any drainage system causes
the soil to become at once amenable to the influence of air and
light, the particles become drier and more widely separated,
making the soil loose in texture ; but the air which rushes into
the interstices absorbs the small proportion of moisture that
remains therein, and thus is created the vaporous atmosphere
so necessary to plant life. In this way, the withdrawal of
liquid in an objectionable deleterious form leads to the substitu-
tion of moisture in a form which is most acceptable to and
assimilable by the plants. Another effect of drainage is to
raise the temperature of the soil by the same process of changing
a cold, water-logged mass into an aerated, porous soil, and
facilitating the entrance of the sun-warmed atmosphere.

Whilst noting the grand results of a proper system of drainage,
the question occurs as to the methods and means of accom-
plishing the work. These must obviously be regu-
Metbods lated by circumstances — i.e. the length of one's
of purse, the nature of the soil to be drained, the

Drainage extent of the ground, the materials and labour that
may be available in the district, and other considera-
tions. The orthodox drainage system is carried out by means
of a train of pipes, laid a few feet below the surface along the
whole length or width of the plot — in whichever direction the
ground may incline. Where no incline exists, the pipes are
laid nearer the surface on one side of the garden, with a down-
ward tendency towards the opposite end, where provision for
receiving or passing on the liquid accumulations must be made.

12 VEGECULTURE

But where expense is a consideration, other effective systems
can be introduced in a way of a toose layer of broken bricks,
stones, crockery, clinkers, or similar material, placed on the
same principle as the pipes under the surface soil. There
may be one or more of these drainage lines, as circumstances
may dictate ; but if the garden paths are well drained, in many
instances there will be little necessity for a drain running under
the garden soil. Considering the fact that soil-drains often
become choked — especially open drains made with loose rubbish
— it is as well to cause each pathway to become a deep, effective
drainage system — an underground watercourse, in fact — well
guarded from danger of sinking or filling up, and the hard surface
of the path made up on top of the drain. A narrow, deep gulley
may also be excavated on each side of the pathway next to the
garden soil, in which the pipes or broken rubbish may be laid ;
then, if the path be formed in arch fashion from side to side,
water will run off and soak into these gullies, thus draining the
pathway as well as the garden soil. An obstinate piece of
waterlogged ground may be effectively drained by excavating
the soil at the lowest spot to a considerable depth and placing
at the bottom large branches of trees, prunings, or other woody
rubbish, the earth being returned on top of the branches ; indeed,
a path may be thus efficiently drained by placing such materials
in a deep trench dug in the border next the pathway on one or
both sides of the latter.

The object of digging is to loosen the soil so as to render it
more fit for the reception of seeds and plants, and the work

may be performed by either the spade or fork. The
Digging operation is as follows : The digging-tool is thrust

into the ground, and driven down as far as it will
go by pressure of the foot. The workman begins at one end
of the piece of ground, and opens a trench quite across it, at
least a foot wide and deep, or more, carrying the earth to the
end of the plot where he intends to finish. So far as depth
and width are concerned, shallow soils resting on chalk, gravel,
sand, etc., should not be dug deeper than half a foot ; clay
soils do not often admit of digging to a depth of more than a
foot ; whilst upon other soils no limit is placed. The trench is
then filled up again by digging out the next foot-wide-and-deep
piece of ground. Every spadeful of soil must be reversed when
replaced ; and the open trench must be preserved, as the
digging continues, between the dug and undug ground. As the
work proceeds, all large clods should be broken, especially

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 13

when the ground is required for almost immediate sowing or
planting, and an even surface preserved. Then, having dug
to the other end of the piece, the earth taken out of the first
trench is used to fill up the last opening.

Where the ground is of a greater depth, the subsoil being of
good calibre or capable of improvement, and the cultivation
of deep-rooting subjects is in view, the soil should receive a
thorough breaking-up in its lower depths as well as the layer
nearer the surface. Despite what I have said concerning
digging shallow soils, the under strata of which would be useless
on the surface, there is every reason for attacking and pulverizing
this hard, chalky, rocky, or clayey mass, as the case may be,
through which no root can penetrate or derive much benefit.
One strong argument in favour of breaking up such subsoils
is that drainage is effected thereby ; another is a welcome
addition to the depth of the earth which in time would be
afforded.

The nature and composition of the ground determines its
treatment. Heavy or "strong" soils, which are naturally
of a clayey nature, may be greatly benefited by
Manipulation being manured and roughly laid up in ridges
of the early in the autumn ; if, however, there is a

Different very great percentage of clay in the soil, an

Textures early exposure to frosts may cause the soil to

partake of the nature of plaster, and thus be very
difficult to work for some time. However, repeated dressings
of road scrapings, sand, ashes, burnt soil, decayed garden
rubbish (with which lime should be mixed), and similar opening
material, well mixed, when opportunity presents itself, with
the clay, will gradually convert the plastic mass into a more
easily- worked soil. These materials should be collected all the
year round, placed upon any piece of ground which becomes
vacant, or requires digging, and dug in with a fork. Ground
that has been ridged in autumn should be levelled when the
soil appears in workable condition ; this will be during frosty
weather, especially immediately after a severe frost — just before
a decided thaw sets in, for the soil will then crumble readily.
Besides, when thus levelled, the drying winds and frosts of
early spring will bring about by their influence that fine surface
which is so necessary for sowing seeds. In some soils and
situations, however, the state of the ground is inclined to become
very cold and sodden, and difficult to form into ridges ; and the
procedure in such instance is to fork or prise up the soil in rough

14 VEGECULTURE

lumps, without any attempt at pulverization, and leave these
to the mercy of the weather until a modification in the con-
sistency of the lumps is observable.

Clayey loams are improved by being manured and roughly
dug during the autumn and early winter.

Soils of medium texture, and light soils resting on chalky,
gravelly, or sandy subsoil, which work freely without a long
exposure to pulverizing influences, are best left severely alone
during autumn and early winter.

In digging friable soils — especially with a fork — there is
little necessity to break whatever lumps may be formed, pro-
viding these do not interfere with the preservation of an even
surface.

Moist soils are in the best condition for digging just after
gentle rains, but the digging should never be attempted when
the ground is soaked with heavy rain. Neither should any
soil, light or heavy, be touched in the way of digging whilst
snow lies upon it ; nor should ice or frost be buried ; for thawing
under the surface of such buried snow or ice is so slow that it
causes the land to retain a cold, wet state until it is almost too
late for use in spring.

A dressing of clayey marl or clay is very valuable to extremely
light soils ; the lumps of such materials being scattered
promiscuously over the ground. The frosts will break the*se
up, and the residue may be thoroughly mixed with the soil in
the spring.

One of the main sustaining features of a vegetable-garden is

a substance called " humus." Without this substance vegetable

culture becomes impossible ; yet there are many

Humus gardeners who never trouble to ascertain whether

this essential material is present in their soils to an

appreciable extent. Certainly humus is present, more or less

in nearly every kind of soil, but the proportion in which it'

exists determines the extent of fertility, which shows at once

its great importance.

Humus is formed in the soil by the decay of vegetable matter.
A typical example of humus is well-decomposed leaf -mould.
The sources from whence the soil usually obtains its store of
humus are the farmyard manure we apply, and the roots and
tops of all vegetation growing in it. Humus, being formed from
decaying vegetable matter, naturally contains a large proportion
of the chemical food that was taken up by the plants when
they were growing. Many acids are also formed which attack

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 15

and corrode the soil particles. Plant food is thus liberated,
and becomes available for successive crops. Humus has the
power of retaining plant food which has been applied to the
soil in the form of manure, together with a large amount of
water, thus providing soluble chemical compounds that are
readily absorbed ' by growing plants, and affording liquid
sustenance during drought.

Despite the annual provision of humus in a natural way by
decay of vegetable substances, the severe drain upon the resources
of the soil of a well-cropped vegetable garden is so great that
supplementary provision of humus must be given by the
gardener, to keep up a balance of nutriment in his soil. This
is an easy task, for Nature, ever ready to assist, produces the
materials for the purpose in abundance ; but they must be
collected and conserved by the cultivator if he wishes to use
them. There is much in the way of vegetable refuse, for
example, which can be turned into this valuable humus ; there
is also refuse from the house that can be pressed into the
same service ; and these materials, together with burnt rubbish,
soot, lime, etc., may be systematically collected, and buried
deeply in the ground wherever a vacant space may present an
opportunity. This may be done all the year through, until
quite a large portion of the garden soil is honeycombed by these
holes containing the refuse. Of course, decomposition sets in ;
but being underground, no offence is occasioned, and the lirne
and soot hastens the process and sweetens the mass at the
same time. When the ground has to be dug or trenched, these
buried refuse-collections are brought to light, and, being in a
more or less advanced state of decay, the stuff incorporates
with the soil after the manner of, manure, where it completes
disintegration. A year or two of this process will bring the
poorest of soils into a hearty state of fertility, and together
with applied organic and chemical manures, prove the main-
stay of the soil all through the burden of the carriage of heavy
crops.

In speaking of the calibre or quality of garden soils, the
presence of humus therein supplies the meaning of the word

" rich," for the richness of soils always depends upon
Manure the quantity of humus the}' contain. No soil can
versus have too much of this valuable fertilizing material.
Humus The cultivator, however, must note the difference

between manure and humus. The former, in a fresh,
crude state, firstly raises the temperature of the ground wherein

16 VEGECULTURE

it is placed ; secondly, it has a mechanical effect upon the soil
a heavy medium is disintegrated and lightened, a light soil
is rendered more compact and moisture-retaining, by its applica-
tion. But so far as vegetation is concerned, crude manure is
absolutely poisonous; its powerful chemical gases, burning
acids, and reactionary activities are fatal to the roots of plants
wherever contact occurs, so that manure, in its fresh, undecayed
state, is useful only in a mechanical way, or for providing heat.
Yet, this same manure, after a while, becomes toned down into
a mellow, black, soft, friable soil, extremely rich in food com-
pounds and sustaining elements, receiving, filtering, retaining,
and giving moisture by means of its well-balanced and organized
moist-air cells and perfect composition ; in fact, the manure
has been transformed into humus.

Where lasting benefit is desired, therefore, from manurial
applications, every facility should be given for the thorough
decay of all crude substances committed to the soil. The
mechanical action of such matters as lime, soot, ashes, burnt
refuse, slops, soap-suds, salt, all helping to bring this desirable
state of affairs to satisfactory completion.

The term " rotation of crops " is an incomplete one, it fails
to describe or indicate its meaning. The rotation of crops — a
system whereby no land shall be made to bear the
Rotation same or a similar crop two consecutive seasons-
o! Crops does not meet the actual needs of the soil. There
is many a piece of land which has borne a crop of
the same kind of vegetables for many years without a break.
I personally know of a plot upon which Potatoes are planted
every year — with good results, too ; and of another that has
carried Runner Beans for several years — planted in almost
precisely the same spot every time — also with fine results.
These instances show that mere rotation of crops does not
bring about perfection of produce. The secret of the success
that rewards these old-fashioned gardeners of unscientific
habit is the fact that each year a sufficiency of the right quality
manure is put into the soil, thus giving back what has been
extracted by the crop, that the succeeding crops shall not
suffer.

Now, if we look at the rotation of crops from the manurial
standpoint, we have in a moment found the true meaning of
the term. A system of manuring and a system of cropping
should always be applied in company ; neither must be applied
alone. I fail to see the use of arranging for Potatoes to follow

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 17

Carrots, for instance, if the ground does not contain the right
sort of nutriment to successfully produce and sustain the
Potatoes ; or attempting to grow Cauliflowers after the essential
nutriment has been abstracted by Parnsips or Peas. It is plain,
then, that the gardener must, in arranging for the succession
of certain crops, also ascertain by observation and calculatioa
whether the ground is in fit condition to maintain such succession
or not. It is often advised, in a casual manner, to allow surface-
rooting crops to follow deep-rooting ones, and vice versa ;
but there is this to remember — the presence of the deep-rooting
vegetables prohibited the incorporation of manure in the surface
soil during the year of their occupancy, therefore this portion
of the ground must be in an almost starved condition by the
time the shallow-rooting plants are to take their turn ; which
makes it quite evident that the latter are in for a very
bad time should it not occur to the cultivator to renovate that
surface soil with a manurial application suited to the crop that
is to succeed the long roots. This is very obvious, one may
point out, and is easily left to the intelligence and initiative
of the gardener. Quite correct ; but the most intelligent man
makes ridiculous mistakes sometimes ; memory will fail ;
distractions will occur ; and forgetfulness, lack of forethought
and too little time to spare in these rushing days are common
to us all. It is therefore best to face the fact that, where the
cropping of ground with vegetables is concerned, the formula,
" rotation of crops " must be amended, in order to read " Rota-
tion of crops with manurial adjustment."

It is certainly true that manurial adjustment often accom-
panies rotation of crops as a natural result ; but is it not acci-
dental rather than designed in a great many cases,
Manurial owing to the geniality or adaptability of the soil ;
Adjustment and is not the crop selected for succession also
often a happy accident in following a theoretical
course of operation rather than a well-thought-out choice ?
It is also true that rotation of crops assists manurial adjustment —
in theory, but not always or necessarily in practice ; it depends
on local conditions, as a rule. And it must be admitted that
the balance of nutriment can always be corrected by a scientific
application of artificial chemical manures during the growing
season. Still, after these facts are conceded, there yet remains
the glaring need of bringing the soil up to the mark by the
judicious application of organic manures to replace the nutri-
ment which has been extracted or not been given previously.

3

18 VEGECULTURE

As an illustration of this, l$t me say a few words anent a
system of cropping a piece of land in any garden. We will
presume the first crop to be carried is a tap-root one — say,
Parsnips. The land is, of course, dug very deeply, and manured
deep down in the subsoil only, the presence of fresh manure
being undesirable in the top spit for this crop. When the
Parsnips have been removed from the plot, the soil of the latter
may be considered an excellent medium for the production of
Greenstuffs of some kind ; but there is one defect — an exhausted
top-soil. (There can be no question about this, considering
that no manure has been applied to it for nearly two years,
and all the original nutriment must have been used up by the
Parsnips.) The plot, then, must be dug over, and well manured
during the operation, before planting the Cabbages, etc. If
there is time before the winter months approach, a very light
catch-crop may be secured, if desired, when the Greenstuffs
have matured ; but the winter should be devoted to deep-
digging, or trenching, with manuring, as deeply as possible,
distributing the manure throughout from top to bottom. The
plot, in the spring, will be an ideal site for an Onion bed, capable
of high-class results, especially if a fair supply of soot, ashes,
lime, etc., is given during soil manipulation ; and the same may
be prophesied for such crops as Peas, Beans, or other strong-
feeding vegetables. Following upon this strenuous cropping,
if the plot be allowed a rest all the succeeding winter and early
spring, there surely could be no more ideal soil than this for
producing an excellent crop of Potatoes or Beet — and without
further manuring. A process of this or similar kind could be
repeated indefinitely, with variations and modifications, as
desire or necessity dictated, with the certainty of the ground
maintaining an equable state of fertility and tilth.

Manures directly assist vegetable growth by recharging the
soil with those nutritive chemical properties which have been
extracted by previous crops, thus preventing exhaus-
Manures tion and sterility : and also provide heating materials
which considerably raise the temperature of the soil
wherein they are placed. Organic manures are the natural
products of vegetable decay and animal refuse ; artificial
manures are manufactured chemical products. The first class
contain the decaying materials in bulk, and are useful in adding
to and enriching the soil as well as affording food direct to
plants ; the second class are composed of concentrated chemicals
in a more or less powdered or crystallized state, to be used in

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 19

very small quantities near the surface of the soil. New and
fresh organic manure ferments, and has the effect of lightening
the soil ; whilst well-decayed manures render it
Organic more compact. The manure of birds is richer and
Manures stronger than that of animals, and should be used
cautiously and sparingly, or well mixed with soil.
Guano and poultry manure are examples. The manure of
horses, pigs, etc., is hot, and suited to cold, heavy soils ; whilst
that of the cow and sheep is useful upon light, sandy soils.
Fresh manure, of whatever kind, is preferably mixed with the
lower strata of the garden ground, where it will decay and lose
its burning, acid properties, and afterwards prove most beneficial
when brought to the surface. Old, " spent " manure makes an
excellent top-dressing for all purposes. Fish manures are most
excellent, providing the valuable phosphate of lime needed by
so many vegetable crops ; whilst bones and blood are very
rich in fertilizing properties ; bone-meal is most permanent in
its effect upon the soil.

I would advise beginners to use artificial manures in small
quantities and often. I remember giving an extra quantity of
nitrate of soda to some very backward plants.
Artificial A few days afterwards, however, the leaves turned
Manures a sickly hue, and it was with great difficulty that I
was able to save the plants from dying. I have
found that it is best to discover which two manures suit
any one particular crop, and then use each alternately. It is
a better way than treating the plants with any one particular
manure time after time.

As I have indicated the special manures required by all the
classes of vegetables treated in this book, whilst discussing
cultural and managerial procedure, there is no
Mechanical necessity to enlarge upon the subject just here ;
Manuriai but I would like to emphasize the great value of
Agents lime in the vegetable-garden— its sweetening,

fertilizing, pulverizing properties are wonderful,
'o which must be added its deadly effect upon insects, weeds,
:ungi, all forms of decay or rot, disease, and sourness. Lime
n quantity should be placed upon the ground some time previous
to cropping, and dug in thoroughly ; its effect may be hardly
noticeable the first year, but there can be no mistake about
ts beneficial presence subsequently. Potatoes are the only
vegetables which are injured by the presence of lime. Gas-
ime must be applied to ground infested with insects or disease

20 VEGECULTURE

germs, and no crop must be grown thereon for at least three
months afterwards. Lime, in very small quantities, may be
effectively used as a preventive of insect attacks. Salt is another
fertilizer for the kitchen-garden, and one not generally recog-
nized ; in fact, many of our vegetables are native to the sea-
shore, and even demand .the application of this commodity,
which is often denied them. Common salt, sea-sand, and sea-
weed may all be used for the purpose of keeping up the balance
of saline elements in the soil, not forgetting also its drastic
action upon anything in the way of unwanted vegetation,
weeds, insects, and decay. Soot and vegetable-ash form other
valuable manurial and insect-combating agents ; and no garden
should be without a liberal supply.

One point connected with the selection of suitable seeds that
is provocative of much heartburning and disappointment with

cultivators may be noted. There is, I admit, much
The seductive attractiveness in the offer of new, im-

Selection proved, or giant strains of certain vegetables, and
of Seeds an almost irresistible impulse and desire on the

part of the gardener to try " just one row " in order
to experience the delights of producing something large and
novel or super-productive ; and there are few who can resist
the temptation thus presented. Well, that is perhaps as it
should be — at least, so the seedsman thinks ; but the latter
individual often has to alter his jubilant note into something
of a sad strain upon receipt of complaints that his new seeds
did not come up to the advertised mark in the way of expecta-
tions ! But the seedsman is often unfairly blamed. Let it
be noted, and treated as a maxim, that improved strains created
by intense cultivation and rigorous selection demand a con-
tinuity of such cultivation and selection to maintain the standard
of excellence which the strain has acquired. In other words,
when the gardener buys seeds of an avowed improved vegetable,
he also purchases the responsibility of maintenance of quality —
by personal attention to culture and treatment of his purchases ;
the improvement is passed by the seller to the buyer on the
understanding that the latter affords the necessary essentials
to enable the improvement to be perpetuated. Otherwise, under
bad cultivation and indifferent care, the good work is lost,
and the vegetable reverts to its former low standard. Thus it
must be clearly understood that high-class vegetables, raised
to the highest pitch of excellence, size, and productiveness by
diligent cultivation, require a generous treatment from the

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 21

gardener into whose hands they pass. The individual who
cannot give such exacting treatment had better by far abstain
from plunging into a business which he cannot accommodate,
and be content with the old, useful varieties instead.

In speaking of the old-fashioned sorts, I would like to com-
mend them. Have not many of our oldest vegetable selections
kept their place in the forefront of utility, despite
Old the greater attractiveness and superiority of the new-
versus comers ? And cannot these same vegetables be made
New to yield wondrously well by fair and generous cultiva-
tion ? But I am afraid many gardeners forget the
status of the older sorts, and look upon the improved vegetables
as merely labour-saving creations whereby they can work less and
obtain more ; but it is not so. It is the duty of every gardener
to maintain the standard, and, if he can, raise it still higher.

Size is not always a desirable quality in vegetables, and the
amateur especially should be careful in this matter, because
the finely-proportioned vegetable is so very attractive
Size and so alluring that the temptation to produce it is
versus almost irresistible. And nothing can be more dis-
Quality appointing and disgusting than the discovery that a
huge, white, perfectly-shaped Turnip is nothing more
or less than a fraud when its interior is exposed to light, or the
ine-looking super-Carrot which on cooking betrays the fact
:hat it consists of wood rather than flesh! Yet I have nothing
to say against the advance in proportions many vegetables have
ittained, when the outward gain is balanced by an equal amount
of inner richness. Such a vegetable, it must be remembered,
s not brought into existence by a process of stimulating culture
or forced growth ; rather, it is the result of years of patient
selection and re-selection, often bringing disappointment and
chagrin to the experimenter, but paying him well in the end.
There is a vast difference between the two processes ; and time
s always the factor which evolves the larger vegetable with
unimpaired stamina and finer qualities.

The committal of seeds to the ground is an operation which
does not always receive sufficiently serious consideration. Upon
seed-sowing, to a very large extent, depends the
Seed- success or failure of the crop. Seeds are often spoilt
Sowing by being sown at the wrong time — during very wet
or very dry weather ; sown upon unsuitable surface,
composed of soil of a sticky nature, liable to cake, dry or sandy,
'umpy, insufficiently drained.; sown too deeply or not deep

22 VEGECULTURE

enough ; sown too thickly — under all of these conditions seeds will
not germinate, and seedlings will not prosper. The ideal sowing
c onditions include, first, a suitable surface soil — fine, rich, friable,
warm, moist, recently dug ; second, propitious weather — just after
a gentle shower or watering, and during a spell of atmospheric
warmth, without great sun-heat ; third, good, fresh seeds.

To secure the first-named, good digging and draining, with
the use of hoe and rake, is necessary ; while over the second
the gardener has but little control beyond taking
The Depth advantage of any favourable development in the
to Sow state of the weather to make his sowings ; and

the third is a matter of judicious selection. The
points to be thoroughly understood by the sower are that, in
order to germinate, seeds require moisture, air, genial warmth,
and darkness. The ground atmosphere being in a condition
to provide the first three, the seeds are placed just deep enough
in the soil to ensure the fourth condition. This depth is deter-
mined by the size of the seed ; that of a Bean, for instance,
may be planted two to three inches deep, whilst the seeds
of the herb Rampion — the smallest of kitchen-garden seeds —
must be simply scattered upon the surface and gently pressed
into the soil. Another factor that determines the depth to
sow is the nature of the ground and the state of the prevailing
weather. If the ground is on the heavy or wet side, the seeds
are more lightly covered than those which are sown upon a
light, dry soil ; the advantage being, in the first case, the access
of air to the seed, and, in the second, ensuring a sufficiency of
moisture. Seeds may also be planted much nearer the surface
in intermittent damp weather, when there is a prospect of the
ground remaining fairly moist until the seedling plants have
obtained a secure hold upon the soil. In drier weather condi-
tions, however, the seeds must be placed deeper in the soil, or
the young plants will die for lack of sustenance later on.
" Depth," it must be remembered, is to be reckoned in very
small fractions of inches.

It is an advantage, on the majority of soils, if the drills are
made about twice as deep as necessary, and partly filled with a

compost containing materials which offer a better
A medium than the surrounding soil, which, if at all

Seed-Bed stiff or clayey, is certain to be somewhat lumpy,
Compost however well pulverized, and in which the seeds

may get out of their depth or become covered by
clods, stones, etc. The materials for this sowing-compost may

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 23

be divided into three distinct sections, and include : (i) Very
fine and rich garden soil, crumbly loam, leaf-mould, peat, old
hotbed manure, etc. — these may form the basis of the compost,
and they must be reduced to a powdered state. (2) Sand, sea-
sand, road-dust, wood ashes, flue-dust, soot, salt, etc. (3) Super-
phosphate, Clay's Fertilizer, bone-meal, guano. This list indi-
cates the kind of ingredients that are suited to the purpose ;
any or all of them may be used — whatever the locality produces
and circumstances provide. They must be well mixed — Nos.
i and 2 in any proportion ; and at intervals during the mixing
a slight dusting of No. 3 should be sprinkled over the mass.
Any one favourite and suitable chemical manure may be used ;
but the bone-meal should not be omitted, for its effects are very
beneficial.

When the mixing has thoroughly and completely taken place,
the finished product will prove a valuable asset in the hands
of the sower. A drill partly filled with this compost provides
a mechanical support wherein the seeds may lodge without
any fear of being spoilt ; for the compost, lying lightly and
loosely upon the seeds, can, by slight pressure only, be made
quite compact, yet admitting light and air, and conserving a
sufficiency of moisture to ensure germination. Moreover, the
resultant seedlings will have the inestimable advantage of a
fine, rich soil, replete with food elements, into which the young
rootlets will enter and find a congenial home. These circum-
stances will have a marked effect upon the future well-being
of the plants, because good initial growth must certainly result
in greater stamina and size. Therefore it will be seen how
valuable good seed- and seedling-beds are, and the enormous
aid a compost such as I have described would afford in this
direction.

Broadcast sowing — i.e., scattering the seeds here, there, and
everywhere — is not to be recommended except for the purpose
of snatching a quick crop from a newly-planted or sown Potato,
Carrot, or Onion bed by scattering a handful of seeds of Turnip
Radishes or Lettuces thereon. Drills are by far the best, not
only on the score of neatness, but because the gardener has
complete control over the rows of seedlings, and can with
greatest ease perform the operations of weeding and thinning.
The drills should always be drawn as straight as possible, and
in very dry weather or situations, water should be poured along
the drills some time previous to sowing the seeds.

I fail to see the use of estimating the exact quantity of seeds

24 VEGECULTURE

necessary for a given space. In these days of penny and two
penny packets, stating the number of seeds therein, it is very
easy to judge the quantity required ; and it all depends upon
the sower whether a large or small amount is purchased. In
fact, much seed is wasted by sowing far too thickly. Sow the
seeds in sufficient numbers to compensate for losses, and no
more.

The treatment of seedling plants from 'the time they peep
through the soil until they are able to take care of themselves

as adults demands great care upon the part of the
Seedling cultivator, for a plant may be made or marred
Plants quite easily in the initial stages of its existence.

Strong, continuous, steady growth must be main-
tained throughout the first few weeks of the career of any
seedling ; and vegetables are to the forefront in this respect.
Weakly, drawn, straggling growth is useless. Such conditions
are usually the outcome of a crowded seed-bed or seed-drill ;
and emphasizes the necessity for early and judicious thinning
out of all plants that cause a cramped situation, however fine-
looking they may be. There is a great timidity on the part
of many cultivators in dealing with the young plants — the fear
of mistaking weeds for good plants, the possibility of selecting
for removal those that are really the best specimens, and a
general reluctance to interfere with what appears to be luxuriant
growth. But there must be no hesitation or reluctance where
crowded seedlings are concerned. Severe thinning need not
take place at the outset ; the gardener who is at all doubtful
of his ability to make a wise selection whilst the plants are very
young should first of all remove a few of the very crowded
seedlings, leaving the others a few days longer to show their
true colours. Then another thinning may be made, pulling
out all plants that do not appear to be growing so strongly as
their companions, as well as those that show any fault or have
become damaged. After this, there will be ample room for
the remainder to develop, and they may be allowed to attain
to a good size before the final selection and rejection is made.
The last thinning, of course, should leave the plants disposed
at a distance from each other to ensure ample space when they
have become full grown.

All during these operations the use of the hoe and the drastic
removal of weeds is imperative. The latter operation, as well
as that of thinning out, is facilitated by being carried out after
a gentle shower of rain, or the application of water from the

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 25

watering-pot ; the hoe following immediately between the
rows, which preserves a fine, open surface, and allows the
entrance of light, air, and moisture into the soil. Particular
care should be taken to make the young plants quite firm in
the ground after disturbance by weeding, thinning, or cultiva-
tion.

Water is another provision that must have attention when
the soil becomes at all dry. Before the water-pot is used,
however, and during showery weather, an occasional dusting
of artificial manure may be applied to the ground between
the rows, and gently hoed, raked, or forked in. This is unneces-
sary where steady growth is being maintained.

Disease belongs more to the adult than to the younger plants,
as a rule, although, of course, the latter are liable to be attacked ;
insects are the enemies that seedlings suffer from
Enemies most, as the tender leaves and shoots of the imma-
of ture plants are very attractive to them. Such

Seedlings attacks must be guarded against and prevented, at
all costs ; for once the little plants are robbed of
their foliage, their chances of proving useful in the future are
almost nil. Soot may be liberally sprinkled upon the foliage
as a preventive ; whilst salt, lime, soot, and flue-ashes may be
also used effectively upon the ground.

The use of the hoe and hand-fork should keep pace with
the growth of the plants. Neglect of cultivation is often the,
ruin of what would otherwise be a fine crop ; in fact, cultivation
of the soil is really more important than manuring the soil,
in many cases, especially on heavy clays.

Transplanting and planting out are two operations often
imperfectly done. The first applies chiefly to the removal
of plants from the seed-bed to the nursery or
Transplanting permanent quarters, and requires care and
and skill. If a thin-pronged fork be inserted at

Planting Out the edge of the seed-bed or drill, and the soil
gently raised, the plants therein may be removed
with a small ball of earth attached to the roots, especially if
the bed is moist at the time. Holes in the new quarters may be
made with a dibble or trowel, and filled with water a few minutes
before the planting takes place. Then each plant should be
inserted carefully, holding it with one hand whilst filling the
earth in with the other ; finishing by gentle pressure all around
the collar of the plant with the fingers or point of the trowel or
dibble. Transplanting — or " pricking out " — from boxes and

26 VEGECULTURE

pots is performed in similar manner. Planting-out refers usually
to larger specimens that have passed some time in a nursery
bed to gain a sufficiency of strength. The operation coincides
with that of transplanting seedlings, but the procedure may be
somewhat rougher. Cabbage, Onion, and Lettuce plants,
for example, are usually placed in a dibbled hole, which is then
filled with water, and soon afterwards the earth is made firm
around the stem of the plant by pressing with the point of the
dibble.

The art of cultivation consists in: (i) continually stirring the
soil, either vigorously or gently, as circumstances warrant, by
means of the rake, hoe, fork, and cultivator ;
General (2) a sufficient provision of liquid supplies ;

Cultivation (3) the application of stimulating manures during
growth, chiefly chemical and in liquid form, or
assisted to act by watering or rainfall ; (4) weed-killing — by
no means the least of all operations ; and (5) the removal and
destruction of insects, or prevention of their attacks. Good
cultivation assists growth, fruitfulness, size, and quality. It
often succeeds in producing good crops on poor soil, and where
a proper system of cultivation and drainage exists, quite half
the usual quantity of manure afforded under indifferent methods
may be dispensed with. The golden rule for the vegetable
gardener is to never let the soil rest.

So much time, worry, and labour is spent upon the attempted
elimination of insect pests, and with but poor success, after all,
that the gardener is often in despair and feels
Insect like giving up the conflict. This proves that

Pests and prevention by any means is better than cure ;
Diseases that it is far wiser to track the enemy to its place
of origin, and destroy it there, or remove causes and
environment that may afford the least encouragement to insect
and disease production, rather than to wait until the enemy is
actually upon the scene and the deadly, fatal attacks begun.
And if we carefully examine and inquire into these matters, we
shall find that one of the most prolific encouragements to garden
enemies is weeds and superfluous vegetation ; another is decay-
ing vegetable and other matter left lying upon the surface of
the soil, wherein breed hosts of undesirables that affect both
the health of the garden and the gardener ; stagnant water,
excessive dampness, planting too closely, too much shade,
and, worst of all, lack of care, foresight, and vigilance on the
part of the cultivator himself, are other channels through and

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 27

by which disease and insect pests are spread. My favourite
antidote, which may not appeal to everybody — is a healthy,
vigorous pen of poultry — the number of insects such birds
dispose of is marvellous ; and a brood of ducks, if judiciously
allowed to perambulate the garden — under the watchful eye
of the gardener — at dusk, will make terrific gaps in the ranks
of our enemies. Again, we must not despise the humble efforts
of the robin, starling, thrush, and blackbird. Despite the evil
reputation that surrounds such birds when the ripe fruit is in
evidence in our gardens, whatever damage they may do in that
direction is fully compensated by the enormous number of
insects these birds dispose of in the autumn, winter, and spring
months — just the period during which the destruction of insects
is most opportune. If there is a choice, I would rather allow
Mr. Blackbird or Mrs. Starling to appropriate my Plums and
Cherries than a rascally wasp or wriggling maggot ! And I
really think that is what it generally amounts to. Let us be
lenient with our birds, even if some of them are incorrigible
thieves ! If we destroy our feathered allies, there is far worse —
indeed, something unmanageable — to follow !

But I maintain that the worst of all, the most insidious,
disseminators of insect and disease troubles are weeds. It

is a notable fact that when weeds are allowed to grow
Weeds in close proximity to vegetables that belong to the

same family group of plants, those vegetables often
fall a prey to disease and insect pests. The weeds, of course,
spring up in advance of the good, useful plants, and are attacked
by garden enemies, which are at once attracted to so plentiful
a stock of food ; moreover, weeds occur in such numbers, so
crowded are the plants, that most of them have not sufficient
stamina to withstand attacks of disease, and become infested
in a wholesale manner. One can test this almost anywhere —
weeds, grasses, and other undesirable plants are always a home
for greenfly, blackfly, mildew, slugs, caterpillars, snails, etc.
When the enemy has worked his will upon the weeds, he is
faced with a greater temptation in the shape of the more luscious
vegetables close by, which immediately become the object of
attack. The cultivator may, by thinning out quickly by culti-
vation, and by the use of insecticides, ward off or prevent serious
developments of the attack ; but it is far better to remove the
weeds at the beginning. It behoves every gardener, then, to
quickly eliminate every seedling weed that appears in his
garden, v/hether on the pathways^ vacant or unused ground, the

28 VEGECULTURE

seed-bed — anywhere, in fact, where weeds make an appearance ;
nothing else will better help to s*ave our crops from the atten-
tions of disease and insects.1

I would like to emphasize the fact that over-manuring, under-
manuring, rank manure, manure- and rubbish-heaps and refuse

of any kind lying about the ground are the breeding-
Fatal grounds of insect and disease troubles. Unless
Exposure manure and vegetable rubbish can be put deep
of Refuse down in the ground immediately it is received or

formed, and all woody matter burnt, it should
cither be utilized in some other fashion or cleared away. Lime
and soot used freely will mitigate much of the danger, and
manure and vegetable refuse that is unwanted for immediate
use should be covered with a layer of earth and used for growing
Cucumbers, Gourds, Marrows, and salading plants. In treating
manures to obviate nuisance or insect breeding, there is probably
much danger of spoiling the best qualities of the manure ; but
circumstances have to be considered, and the risk must be
run,

Having now concluded 1113' remarks in "general concerning
the possibilities of the kitchen-garden, I will proceed to discuss
the merits of each vegetable subject, with specific details as to
uses, culture, management, and value attached thereto. The
vegetables are placed in a special grouping ; and the subjects
in each group will be found to call for cultural treatment upon
approximate lines.

A chapter will be tound in Spadeoraft upon " Weeds," replete with
interesting and informative facts concerning \\ceds and means of elimination.

SECTION I

VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION

AL vegetables required for show purposes must be
accorded special individual treatment, from the seed
to the matured plant — a careful, painstaking, watchful
system of culture, entirely different from the general procedure.
The results depend almost entirely upon the skill and perse-
verance of the would-be exhibitor, and the attention he lavishes
upon his plants. It also depends upon the rules and require-
ments of the show authorities as to how the growth of the
produce is to be guided and controlled in order to bring forth the
style of vegetable in demand. As a general rule, a selection is
made from seeds offered by firms of repute, and these are sown
upon a choice bed of rich soil, a few being dropped at intervals
of several inches. In the case of long-rooted vegetables, a hole
is made with a long dibble — the deeper and wider the better ;
this is filled with very rich, friable soil, upon which a few seeds
are sown. In every case, a careful examination of the seedlings
are made as soon as they are large enough for their character
and quality to be clearly observable ; one plant — the strongest
and healthiest — is chosen, all the others being pulled out. The
remaining plant will hereafter be regarded as a precious thing —
something to be jealously guarded, zealously cultivated, and
judiciously fed, until the day approaches for its qualities to be
put to the test. There is also much art in sowing and planting
in order to have the exhibits ready by a certain date.

PREPARING THE VEGETABLES FOR THE SHOW. — I give a few
hints as to the preparation of the exhibits which may prove
useful to the amateur. Tap-roots, such as Beetroots, Carrots,
and Parsnips, are usually lifted several days before the show,
and, after a. thorough washing, may be either stored in dry
sand or finely-sifted ashes, or wrapped in clean white paper,

29

80 VEGECULTURE

Potatoes should be selected immediately they are removed from
the ground, placing the chosen tubers in a dark cupboard ;
defer washing them, however, until the day previous to the
show. If Beans or Peas are likely to be too old on the eventful
day, or should trouble be feared from rats, mice, or birds, the
pods, with as much stem as possible, should be cut, and, after
tying them in small bundles, stored in a dark, cool place, allowing
the tips of the stems to rest in rain-water. Take especial care
of Cauliflowers and Broccoli, and, if fully grown, pull the plants
up, and hang, head downwards, in a cool spot ; if this is done
even a week before the show, it will, be far better than running
the risk of the specimens being too matured, discoloured by
sun, or disfigured by the many insects which abound. Celery,
Leeks, and Onions are best left in the ground until the last
moment. When selecting Vegetable Marrows or Cucumbers,
handle them with care, always endeavouring to retain the faded
flower on each specimen. Lastly, make a point of having
in reserve several spare samples of each vegetable it is intended
to place before the judges, for, not infrequently, through acci-
dent or carelessness, specimens get damaged, and, if the exhibi-
tion is too far from your garden to allow these being replaced,
you will experience the mortification of realizing that your
strenuous efforts all through the growing season have been an
utter waste of time — a calamity even worse than having your
exhibits contemptuously ignored by the judges !

HINTS FOR VEGETABLE EXHIBITORS. — Do not make entries
that you have no reasonable prospect of filling. Aim at
quality, together with uniformity, rather than extra large size.
Medium-sized specimens of Turnips, Potatoes, Marrows, Beet-
root, and Cauliflowers invariably find most favour with the
judges. Tomatoes, Celery, Peas, Beans, and Cucumbers can
hardly be too large. The exhibits should be arranged upon
plain white plates or dishes; if coloured plates are used, it
will be wise to cover them with green leaves. Always show
vegetables in a scrupulously clean condition ; if given a short
immersion in rain-water, even the dirtiest specimens may be
effectually cleaned without injury by the aid of a soft sponge or
rag. Take special care in " setting up " vegetable collections.
Boards are better than baskets for this purpose, and should
be of a size large enough to allow every vegetable to have ample
room. A few sprays of Parsley considerably improve and add
greatly to the appearance of any exhibit ; if Parsley is un-
obtainable, greenery of any sort maybe substituted — Carrot-tops,

VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION 31

for instance. The boards may also be covered with large sheets
of white paper, each specimen being placed upon small heaps
of fine wood or paper shavings. Do not forget to place a ticket
bearing the name on each exhibit ; otherwise, loss of points,
or disqualification, is incurred. .Celery, Runner, and Kidney
Beans, Broccoli, and Cauliflower, Onions, Peas, Cabbage, and
Seakale usually gain highest points at a show for vegetables.

SECTION II

LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES

NO one can look at the long, tapering root of a Parsnip
or I'arrot without realizing the great depth of loose soil
such a rout demands for its sustenance and perfect
development, the freedom which must be given to its downward
eouise. and the indifferent results which would perforce accrue
were that cuursr hindered or thwarted by obstruction in the
shape of hard, almost impenetrable soil ! And it is upon this
realization that all operations governing the production of
tap-rooted subjects must pivot and be firmly and irrevocably
based. There is. indeed, little to be gained from the attempt
to grow tap-roots upon an ungrateful, hard-working, compact-
lying soil, or upon ground that is begrudged the necessary spade-
work. The possessor of shallow or hard soils, therefore, should
confine his ambitions to the cultivation of round, or turnip-
muted varieties, in which nearly all vegetables have repre-
sentatives 01 substitutes. I ha vr mentioned spade-work : this
and tap-rooted vegetables air indissoluble partners — where
the former is lacking, the attempted production of the latter is
sheer waste of time. Of course, the class of vegetables under
consideration can be. ami are often, grown upon poor, neglected
soils, and by indifferent, careless gardeners; but I fear the
resulting specimens do not accord with my definition and con-
ception of a desirable vegetable, or come within the catego;
culinary digestible^ which should form part of our daily menu !
A gOOO-sized, tender, easily-cooked root is my objective ; and
nothing tends to produce this desirable article of food as — first,
deep digging, of any and every effective character ; second, subsoil
manuring, to accompany the digging ; and third, but not 1
top-spit and surface cultivation with a sufficiency of moisture.
AN the aid of frost and wind is very desirable in the desiccation

LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES 38

of heavy subsoils — the essential of tap-root culture — the ground
should be thrown up in lumpy ridges during late autumn,
thoroughly breaking up the subsoil thus exposed before levelling
again. Nothing but good can result from labour expended in
tins direction ; pulverization can never be too thorough. There-
fore, o< rasional ridging or trenching, as far as circumstances will
permit, may be done all through autumn, winter, or spring
months. If there be a question of giving any part of the ground
lo !><• devoted to long-rooted vegetables the maximum of atten-
tion in the way of digging and manuring, let it be the subsoil.
and superphosphate are excellent artificial manures for
UK- drills at sowing-time, and weak applications of nitrate of
soda every few weeks after the plants are up.

PARSNIPS (Panistaca saliva). — The Parsnip is a vegetable

requiring long, uninterrupted growth, added to which is the

lowncss in the germinating power of its seeds. These two

characteristics impose upon the gardener the necessity for early

and as seed committed to the ground early in the

year February and the beginning of March — is none too safe,

i is best to sow fairly thickly and on good friable soil. The

n< ntioned condition presents some difficulty during the

adverse weather which will probably be the rule, or the wet

of the soil, but the " seed-bed compost " advocated will

be found most useful in the realization of a good seed-bed in

unfavourable situations.

The ground should be watched for the first sign of germina-
tion, because if the appearance of the seedlings eventually
prove " patchy," fresh seed can be sown, thus ensuring evenness
in t lie rows of plants. The seeds, however, may not all germinate
i-at once, especially in dry weather, and a short time should be
iriven to allow this to take place before conclusions of total
are formed. Early thinning and the drastic elimination of
every suspicion of a weed is imperative.

Beyond cultivating the soil with the hoe, and keeping the
soil free around the crowns of the plants, there is no special
requirement to be met concerning the development of the
Mi: snip until its maturity ; and when this last stage has become
patent, the roots may be dug for immediate use, and to be
stored ; or they are left in the ground — as frost i mproves rather
(haii harms the roots — to be removed as required for consump-
tion ; the only objection to the latter method is the loss of
winter preparation the ground occupied by the roots might

4

34 VEGECULTUHE

otherwise have received, and this is reduced to a minimum when
the treatment given the previous winter is considered. I would,
moreover, like to suggest the use of a small fork between the
rows where the ground tends to consolidate ; the soil cannot
be kept too free.

Variations among Parsnips are not at all numerous ; indeed,
there are but three or four distinct kinds, those offered as
specialities by seedsmen being simply improvements on existing
types. The Hollow Crowned Parsnip is the one most generally
in cultivation. The Student is another fine sort, of medium
length, and most suitable for exhibition purposes. There is
also a dwarf variety suited to shallow soils.

CARROTS (Daucus carota). — Unlike the Parsnip, the Carrot
can justly lay claim to a number of distinct varieties, suited to
various uses and seasons. It is, on the whole, a deep-rooting
subject ; and although the stump-rooted varieties will flourish
on soil of medium depth, there is every prospect of securing
better produce on well-trenched ground. Here is another case,
moreover, in which no fresh, rank, or strong manure, organic
or artificial, should be put in any effective quantity into the
upper layer of soil, but rather it must be well mixed, deep down,
with the subsoil. Its presence in the top-soil will inevitably
lead to the production of badly-shaped, stringy roots, with
large core and very little flesh — just the opposite to that so
greatly desired in a Carrot destined for kitchen operations.
This reminder will suffice to suggest the best procedure as to
the treatment of the ground.

The Carrot succeeds best in an open site, free from heavy
shade, with a well-worked subsoil, and the surface kept in a
loose, porous condition by frequent cultivation. Carrots should
never be allowed to exist in what is little more than a hole in
hard, unyielding ground, sometimes very dry, sometimes sodden.

Seed-sowing is most profitably performed when the ground is
in a friable, moist condition ; if the soil is excessively wet or
dry, failure to germinate will be the lot of the majority of the
seeds. Early sowings are made somewhat thickly, in order to
compensate for a percentage of losses, but thin sowing should
be the general rule.

The different classes of Carrot accommodate themselves
splendidly to the special requirements of the culinary art at
different times of the year ; and their cultivation may be under-
taken with this end kept well in view. Three divisions may be

LONO-ROOTED VEGETABLES 85

recognized for this purpose : the quickly-maturing short or
" stump "-rooted varieties ; the intermediate sorts ; and the
large, long, main-crop Carrots, that require prolonged growth
and thorough maturing for storage purposes.

The first class may come well into the category of " catch-
crops." These vegetables are most valuable on account of
their very tender and sweet qualities — if well and quickly grown,
of course. They are adapted for growth in any garden, large
or small, and at almost any time of the year, with the aid of
glass in the winter months. A great depth of soil is not required,
but it should be rich and friable. Sowings may be made as
early in the year as the weather will permit outdoors in a warm
position ; if under a frame-light, earlier still. These will
mature in time to be replaced by a summer crop. A supply
of fresh young Carrots may be secured all through the winter
by sowing seeds of the Stump-rooted or " Horn " varieties in
August, choosing a warm site. The roots will have attained a
fair size by the time cold weather approaches, and although
active growth may be stopped, their preservation may be
assured by covering the bed with leaves or other protective
materials.

The " intermediate " section is well-described in its appella-
tion, for the roots are of medium length, tender, and fleshy ;
and by good culture can be made to acquire increase of girth
to make up for shortness. These Carrots are very useful for
summer cookery. They grow speedily, and may be lifted when
young or in maturity. The latter will make the roots amenable
to storage. Seeds may be sown from March to the end of May.
The standard variety in this section is undoubtedly James'
Intermediate Scarlet.

The longer style of Carrot is usually a much coarser vegetable,
and a useful main-crop. Early sowing is best — as soon as the
weather conditions and state of the soil facilitates the operation.
A rich, very deep soil is most essential, with all manure in the
subsoil. Good cultivation all through the period of growth
must be given, as neglect will induce the formation of a hard
core, to the detriment of the cooking qualities.

There are many kinds of the long type — white, yellow, purple,
red. Of these the Long, Surrey is a good selection, also the
Long Red. The white, yellow, and purple Carrots are of too
coarse a nature for garden culture, being more suited to cattle,
poultry, etc. ; Wiltshire Giant White is one of the best of these.

A good dressing of soot given to all land devoted to Carrots

36 VEGECULTURE

will always prove beneficial, and soot and guano may be applied
during showery weather around the young plants.

Carrots are the prey especially of the wireworm, slug, and
leather-jacket ; and the maggot is often destructive. These
may be combated by the previous application of gas-lime (see
page 144) ; also by the use of wood-ashes, sand saturated with
paraffin, lime, and soot upon the soil around the growing plants.

BEET (Beta vulgar is). — This sweet, nourishing salad- vegetable
may be grown wherever a moderate depth of rich soil exists —
aye, even in the flower-border, for the Beetroot's ornamental
attributes are quite equal to its useful qualities !

Dealing with this phase of Beet culture before passing to
that of the kitchen-garden, it may be said that, of the many
vegetables which possess the decorative as well as the utility
side of usefulness, Beets surely take a rank to the extent which
fully entitles them to a place amongst our choicest flowering
and foliage plants — a prominent place, too, in the way of pro-
viding rich colour effects amongst the lower growth of leafage
in the border — a spot where very often in dry weather is much
that is unsightly in the presence of fading and soiled foliage.
Deep crimson red, rich golden yellow, and glistening whitish
green placed here and there amidst the ordinary greens and
browns of the flower-plants, add considerably to the beauty
of the whole ; besides which, the flower-border is, as a rule, in
a state of rich friability, well adapted to root action, so that
Beetroots will be quite at home therein, and appreciate their
aristocratic surroundings to the extent of affording additions
to our food supply in the shape of some edible roots. At the
same time, too much should not be expected in this direction
from a tap-root cultivated principally for the beauty of its
leaf-development, which is accomplished at the expense of
the root. Some of the ornamental varieties of Beet will be
found to be considerably affected by this principle ; but the
round or turnip-shaped sorts — usually crimson-leaved — give
splendid roots under almost any conditions. A few seeds of
both the ornamental and useful varieties may be sown at
intervals along the bed or border, at the time when spring-
sown annual flower-plants are being thinned, thus effectively
and beautifully filling up blank spaces. Suitable sorts for this
purpose include : Brazilian, having leaves two feet in length,
beautifully veined, and of rich scarlet, crimson, and yellow
colours ; Willow-leaved, a newer introduction, with dark,

LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES 37

bronze-crimson, narrow, willow-like leaves, in neat little bushes,
suitable for edgings or bedding, one foot high ; Chilian, in
several colours, one-foot leaves ; and Dell's Crimson, both useful
and ornamental, deep dark red, with excellent roots.

A more practical matter is the cultivation of Beetroots in the
kitchen-garden, which is, on the whole, of the easiest descrip-
tion, provided an open situation and a deep, freely- working
soil be chosen. As with other tap-roots — perhaps more par-
ticularly so — the soil must be well dug, and deeply manured,
with no forcing materials placed in the upper portion of the
ground. In selecting the site, and subsequently sowing the
seeds, harvesting facilities should be particularly kept well in
view, as the Beetroot is so easily injured by careless removal
from the ground. It only requires the smallest bruise or break-
age to ruin the whole vegetable — both in flavour and quality —
the damaged root presenting a most unattractive, anaemic
appearance when ccoked and placed upon the table, instead of
possessing that rich, crimson hue, its finest attribute in decora-
tive cookery. These facts enjoin the greatest care in removing
the roots from the soil. The fork is the best tool for this purpose,
and it must be thrust down well beneath the root to be lifted,
so as to bring it forth intact.

The storage of Beetroots is an important operation, for they
must be well protected from damage and deterioration. It is
sufficient to shake the earth from the roots, without washing or
trimming, and place them where they can be easily got at in
sand, or ashes, and in a well-protected, dry situation, for they
[will probably be frequently required for use. Never use a
i knife or any sharp instrument upon this vegetable until it has
been sufficiently boiled. Do not cut off the leaves ; twist or
i wrench them off. Prior to cooking, the roots are well washed
to remove as much of the dirt as possible ; then they are boiled
in an old saucepan kept for such purposes. After the cooking
is completed, the roots may be scraped and thoroughly cleansed,
and cut in any manner that may be desired, without the least
: detriment to them ; but it is as well to again emphasize the truth
that it is fatal to attempt anything of the sort at any previous
stage. Dell's Crimson and Egyptian are good round sorts for
shallow soils ; whilst there is a good choice of varieties for the
deeper soils.

In addition to the foregoing utility Beets, there are others
that are grown for the sake of their leaves and stalks rather
than the root. One of these is the Perpetual or Spinach Beet

38 VEGECULTURE

(Beta maritima), which will prdtiuce a quantity of green leaves,
to be cooked as Spinach, during summer, autumn, and winter ;
and another variety is called Seakale Beet (Beta cicla), on account
of its use as a substitute for seakale, the white mid-rib of the
leaf forming an excellent, delicate dish for summer and autumn
use. Seeds of these kinds are sown in April or May, in drills,
in an open situation. The soil must be good, and well worked
and manured. Severe thinning of seedlings — quite sixteen inches
from plant to plant — is necessary, and waterings in dry weather.
The green- and white-leaved Beets must be carefully managed
with regard to gathering for use, the outside leaves being removed
first, and the inner ones left to expand for later pickings.
Moreover, the leaves are to be used when perfectly fresh, green ,
and not too mature, otherwise they are very tough and not
worth cooking. In the case of the Seakale Beet, the mid-rib
of the leaf only is used. This can be grown to quite three inches
in width, is pure white in colour, and capable of being blanched
to a high degree of efficiency ; indeed they are said to be quite
equal to Asparagus, when peeled and well cooked. It is recom-
mended that the stalks be earthed up after the manner of
Celery.

SEAKALE (Crambe marititna). — Native to British soil,
Seakale may be found growing along the seashores of these
isles as a wildling. Pressed into the service of the garden, it
becomes a delicious and palatable vegetable. To bring the
plant into this desirable state, however, good cultivation in
the richest of soils is necessary, and the stalks require a
thorough blanching before their utilization upon the table
becomes possible. This blanching, moreover, is effected in a
different manner to that in vogue for Celery, Asparagus, or
Rhubarb — these three requiring a certain amount of light and
air to produce them fit for food ; whereas Seakale is both forced
and blanched in total darkness and absence of air. When well
blanched, Seakale becomes a delicacy of great merit ; and
there is evidence of this in the many substitutes for Seakale —
any vegetable whose leaf-stalks possess qualities approximating
a similarity to Seakale being made to do duty for the real
article. But as anyone with a moderate amount of space and
a fair depth of soil at his disposal can successfully grow Seakale,
there would appear to be little reason for the introdnction of
substitutes.

Seakale may be raised from seeds, and although there is

LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES 39

nothing difficult in this operation, it would prove a tedious and
unprofitable one for those who wish to obtain a supply for
present consumption, as quite three seasons are wasted whilst
the plants are progressing towards maturity and a usable size.
The seed is sown upon a well-trenched and manured plot, about
the last week in March. The seed-bed may previously have
been treated with a thin layer of salt. Sow very thinly, two inches
deep, and strew wood-ashes in the drills. Thin out the seedlings,
leaving the best, to about six inches apart. Liberal waterings,
both clear and manurial, must be given ; also top dressings
between the rows of salt, soot, ashes, etc., and the hoe frequently
used.

Strong one-year-old plants are chosen for the permanent
beds, to be transplanted into similar quarters in which they
passed their existence as seedlings. Of course, the seed-bed
can be transformed into the permanent location, if desired, in
which case the seedlings must be thinned out to about two
feet apart, and given food and generous culture to ensure strong
roots resulting.

Whether from home-sown seed, or from roots purchased from
the nurseryman, the subsequent procedure is the same.

Cuttings may usually be purchased cheaply from the nursery-
man. They consist of thong-like roots, about five inches in length,
which are taken off the base of the root-stock when lifting,
preparatory to forcing. The top of the cutting will be recognized
by the square cut with a few growth buds showing. The base
will be cut in a sloping direction. There thus can be no con-
fusion as to how to insert them in the ground. A rich rooting
medium is necessary, if full-sized forcing plants are desired the
following autumn and winter. The end of March is a suitable
time to plant in cold, stiff soil, but on soils of lighter texture,
a fortnight earlier. Dibble the cuttings one foot apart in the
row, and two feet apart between the rows. See that the crowns
are about an inch below the level of the ground line. When
growth is active go over the plants ; it will then be found that
numerous shoots are springing from the crown. These should
be reduced to one on each root, choosing the strongest.

The frequent use of the hoe during the growing period is all
the cultural detail required, for they are not appreciably affected
by drought, as the long, thick roots which spring from the base
of the plants search deeply for moisture. On the approach of
autumn the leaves will show signs of decay, and when, after a
few sharp frosts, the plants are perfectly rested, they are in a

40 VEGECULTURE

suitable condition for forcing. Lift the crowns as carefully
as possible, preserving all the strong roots, for these are the
material for ensuring a supply of plants in the future. After
removing these roots, place from six to nine crowns in a nine-inch
pot, using any light, porous mixture. See that the crowns
are just above the level of the soil, when potting up is com-
pleted. A good watering will settle the earth around the roots.
The pot may be placed under the greenhouse stage, with another
pot inverted on it, in order to exclude all light. Boxes or other
receptacles may be pressed into service, but pots are better.
A few crowns thus potted up at intervals of fourteen days
will keep up a nice succession of this succulent vegetable. Where
no artificial heat is available, the crowns may be forced without
lifting from the soil in which they are planted by the aid of a
few Seakale pots, or boxes — in fact, anything which excludes
light — relying upon littery manure, leaves, etc., to give the
necessary heat.

CHICORY (Cichorium intybus) .—This is another floral
vegetable of merit, greatly neglected, and but little appre-
ciated. In the first place, it grows wild inalmost all parts of
Britain and Europe, and a plant or two, removed from the
roadside into the garden, prove very ornamental in the flower-
border. Again, seeds of the large-leavedkinds sown thickly,
in drills, produce long leaves like those of a Dandelion, which,
although bitter, may be used in salads, or,better still, thoroughly
blanched like Endive, when the bitterness is eliminated. The
leaves may be gathered several times during the year. As a
vegetable, Chicory becomes a delicacy. For this purpose, the
large-rooted, or Witloof, Chicory is used, the latter being a product
of Belgium, where this vegetable is grown to perfection. The roots
of these plants are used in the manufacture of coffee chicory.
The varieties are the Magdeburg, Brunswick, and Witloof.

Seeds are sown in the open ground, in June, in drills, and
the resulting plants grown on until end of autumn, when the
roots are removed from the ground, shortened to about eight
inches, all secondary shoots removed, and the leaves cut off.
All roots bearing several heads or indifferent foliage are dis-
carded. A trench i opened in the ground, sixteen to eighteen inches
deep, and the roots placed upright in it a short distance from each
other ; the necks thus being quite eight inches below the surface
of the soil. The trench is then filled with good, light soil. A
layer of manure or leaves may next be placed over the spot,

LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES 41

to a height of two or three feet. In a month or six weeks' time,
the head of leaves will have grown to a good size. The roots
are then taken up, and the splendidly blanched head of leaves
cut off with a small portion of the root attached. This head
makes a delicious salad or boiled vegetable.

SALSIFY (Tragopogon por rifoli us) , the Vegetable Oyster,
combines ornamental (floral) qualities with useful food possi-
bilities. The flower, when the plant runs to seed, is pretty
and of a violet colour. The roots are six to eight inches in
length, about one inch in diameter, and possess a smooth yellow
skin. Seeds are sown in the spring, in drills, and the seedlings
thinned to about four inches apart. Good, well-dug, and finely-
pulverized soil grows the best roots, and the hoe and watering-
pot will be the principal things in demand during the growing
season. The general tap-root treatment may be given. The
jseed-drills should be kept moist, or germination will be uncer-
tain. The roots are boiled as a vegetable, and are a delicacy ;
while the young and tender leaves may be used as a salad.

SCORZONERA (Scorzonera hispanica). — A Spanish vegetable,
resembling Salsify in most points, especially culture, but it has
a black skin and yellow flowers. The roots, moreover, may
remain in the ground a second season, and continue to grow
larger, without deteriorating in flavour or texture — a fine
[quality indeed ! Like Salsify, the roots are boiled as a vegetable,
and the young leaves used as a salad.

RHUBARB, that popular medicinal vegetable-fruit of early
spring, requires a moist, deep, mellow, well-manured soil, which
'it does not always obtain, for this useful plant is more often
relegated to an out-of-the-way spot in the garden, on account
of the room it occupies, and left much to itself until its owner
requires its produce ; and then, perhaps, a small heap of manure
ilitter, leaves, or an old basket or box is thrown over the crowns
in order to force them to yield up their harvest. A far better
procedure would be to give the plant the richest and deepest
soil of the garden, and to drain the site well beforehand. Four
feet of root-run is none too much for Rhubarb ; and copious
supplies of liquid manure may be applied all through the growing
season with splendid results. The plant is propagated by
slicing the fleshy root into suitable pieces, each with one or
more crowns attached, and planting in good soil from three

& VEGECULTURE

to six fe«t apart. Seeds may also be sown, but the process is
tedious and without advantage. Too many stalks should
not be pulled at once, when gathering for use ; and the method
of detaching the stalk should consist in an outward twist,
so as not to break off a portion of the crown as well. Close
cropping, also, weakens the plant.

Rhubarb may be forced for early use ; of course, this process
entails blanching, and the stalks are rendered somewhat insipid,
although delicate and very welcome, considering the time of
the year.

For forcing purposes Rhubarb plants must be quite three
years old and have firm, plump crowns. Various places may be
utilized for the work — cellars, outbuildings, mushroom-houses
and sheds — but if attempted during the winter months there is
no better place than under the bench in a greenhouse where a
little warmth is available, this, of course, ensuring quick, tender
growth. Lift the roots from the ground with a good ball of
soil attached seven or eight days before they are required,
and stand them in a frost-proof shed. A bed of light, rich soil
may be made up on the floor, or the roots may be planted in
boxes, the crowns in either case being left uncovered above the
surface. Water with tepid water, maintain a moist temperature
about the plants, and exclude light. If a temperature of from fifty-
five to sixty-five degrees is available, satisfactory sticks of Rhubarb
will quickly be produced. After a time the roots will become
exhausted, so that if a continuous supply of stalks is required,
other roots must be planted at intervals of a few weeks. Rhu-
barb can, of course, be forced out of doors similarly to Seakale,
early in the spring, by heaping over the roots such materials
as littery manure, leaves, straw, etc., or by placing a box or
skep over the crowns.

YAMS (Dioscorea batatas). — Ornamental and useful, the
Chinese Yam would probably find a place in many a garden
were it not for its bulk. The roots attain large and long dimen-
sions, and require great depth of loose soil to grow in. They
are floury when cooked, of good flavour, and keep well. The
best plan of culture to be adopted is to form high ridges of soil,
upon the tops of which pieces of the roots, root-buds, or bulblets,
are planted, the ridge affording facilities for harvesting. Mois-
ture is very essential. The habit of the Yam resembles that
of the Runner Bean. Long twining stems, really handsome in
appearance, are produced, and stakes or trellis are necessary

LONG-ROOTED VEGETABLES 43

to support them. Small roots may also be started in heat and
planted out, which procedure will ensure an earlier and heavier
yield. Lift the roots in November and store them. Being
quite hardy, however, the roots may be allowed to remain in
the ground a second season ; they will improve in size, but
deteriorate in flavour.

HORSERADISH (Cochlearia armor acia). — Horseradish will
grow anywhere, and thrives under oppression. A garden
overrun with it is a true sign of neglect, and the individual
whose lot it is to eradicate the roots has my sympathy. But,
nevertheless, the Horseradish is a useful vegetable commodity ;
and if it becomes a pest and a nuisance, the gardener is alone
to blame. There are too many instances where roots are
planted in some out-of-the-way corner, cultivation being left
entirely out of the question ; the result being ugly forked
specimens, with just a crown and a mass of roots, which are of
little use. During the months of November and December,
when the soil is workable, the Horseradish-bed may be taken
in hand, and, if managed properly, there need be no lack of
useful roots, in due time, without the fear of encroachment
beyond the specified limits of the bed. There is no need,
moreover, to select the best site in the garden, because the
Horseradish is accommodating enough to thrive in any situa-
tion. To grow straight roots the soil must be deeply worked,
and, if poor, some well-decayed manure applied. Pieces of
young, straight roots about six inches long, and furnished with
a crown, should be selected. Gently scrape off all rootlets that
may be upon the selected piece, without injuring the skin.
Plant the roots about nine inches apart, and bury them so
that there are three or four inches of soil between the crowns
and the surface of the ground. Growth will make its appear-
ance the next spring, and by autumn there will be an abundance
of useful sticks. The bed should be treated in the same manner
the following winter, though there is no real necessity for chang-
ing the position. If the ground is well dug and manured
annually, Horseradish may be grown on the same site for many
years. One other method consists in making a very deep hole
with a long dibble, and, selecting a fair-sized, straight young
root with a plump crown, shorten it to about four inches in
length, and drop it into the hole, pushing it gently to the
bottom. Do not fill the hole with soil. The plant may also
be grown upon ridges of soil, adopting either of the foregoing

44 VEGECULTURE

methods of planting, in order to secure facility of lifting the
matured roots.

EVENING PRIMROSE ((Enothera biennis}.— Although the
roots of this plant, used in a young state, before the plant sends
up its flower-spike, are edible, even tender, I do not recom-
mend it as a vegetable ; still, it is used as, and really is, such.
I mention it here as a tap-root worthy of a place in the kitchen-
garden on account of its gorgeously beautiful flowers, and as an
illustration of my idea of combining the beautiful with the
commonplace in the vegetable domain. A few of these four-feet
plants growing in an odd corner where little else can be planted,
along a fence, against a shed or a wail that may be unsightly,
or by a manure-pit or rubbish-heap that requires to be hidden,
are extremely useful and ornamental. The Evening Primrose
is a biennial ; seeds never fail to give good results, and little
or no culture is required.

LARGE-ROOTED OR HAMBURG PARSLEY, an excellent
vegetable with a good-sized edible tap-root, is dealt with under
the heading of "Parsley" (page 142). Its culture, however,
coincides with that of the commoner long-rooting vegetables.

RAMPION. — Particulars of this useful plant will be found in
the Herb Section (page 130) ; but, being a tap-rooted subject,
demands mention herein as requiring soil and culture conditions
usually afforded plants with long roots.

Attention may be drawn at this juncture to the long-rooted
varieties that occur amongst the strictly turnip or ball-shaped
roots. They include long Radishes and Horn Turnips, both
of which require treatment similar to that accorded to Carrots
and Beet.

THE STORAGE OF TAP-ROOT CROPS. — Carrots, Beet, Chicory,
Scorzonera, and Salsify require to be lifted when matured and
stored out of the way of damp and frost. Large quantities
are usually stored outdoors in pits or clamps ; but smaller lots
should be given a place indoors, placed in dry sand, or where
available in an outhouse or cellar. Arrange the roots in double
rows, placing the crowns outside, and over each layer of roots
place an inch of sand. When required for use commence with
the top layers. In the event of severe weather being likely to
set in, Parsnips may be stored. Many gardeners do not lift
this crop, but cover the ground with a thick layer of dry straw
or bracken.

SECTION III
LEGUMINOUS VEGETABLES

ESUMINOUS vegetables—Peas, Beans, etc.— are not
only valuable as a nourishing article of food for human
consumption, but they also contribute to the soil in
which they grow a large share of its fertility. The roots of
legumes have a natural habit of collecting and storing nitrogen,
which may be seen in the shape of small nodules clinging to
the roots when pulled from the ground. The strange fact also
remains that, although nitrogen is stored up in this manner and
rendered available as food for the plants, the latter actually
require a further supply, given artificially, to ensure heavy
crops. This may be explained by the affinity which leguminous
vegetables have for nitrogen, enabling them to absorb a large
amount of this chemical without causing undue growth, which
would be the case with many other subjects; the surplus, it
would appear, being stored by the roots in the most convenient
manner. Be this as it may, the peculiar trait is a wise pro-
vision of Providence bearing upon the manurial development
of the soil ; and the cultivator may have the certain and satis-
factory knowledge that the more such plants are grown in his
garden, the larger an amount of stimulating, sustaining food is
being placed in the soil. It is beneficial, then, for the roots
especially of leguminous crops to remain in the soil after the
crop is cleared ; they should never be thrown aside or burnt,
but buried and dug in with the earth after the manner of ordinary
organic manure. The haulms, too, should be burnt and the
ashes returned to the soil, for they contain valuable chemical
food substances. It will also be seen that if nitrogen-loving
crops, such as Greenstuffs, Spinach, or Lettuces, be planted
in succession to Peas and Beans, great advantage will accrue
from the supplies of nitrogen existing in the soil. Deep digging,

45

46 VEGECUtTURE

heavy manuring, moisture, and good cultivation are essentials
with all members of this wonderful family ; and it is the pro-
portional extent in which these necessities are given that deter-
mines the weight of the crop. Bone-meal, superphosphate,
soot, and good liquid manure are excellent fertilizers for legumes.

PEAS are most nutritious vegetables, and to grow them to
anything like perfection needs strenuous work in the preparation
of soil. It will be found quite impossible to grow large pods
full of rich, green Peas, by just digging the soil over one foot
deep. The ground must be trenched quite two feet, and if
the soil is not of sufficient depth, it will be better to take out
a trench and dispose of the bottom spit, putting in its place
something of a better nature. Old garden refuse, such as
rotted vegetable leaves, well dressed with lime, soot, etc., will
be found admirable to mix with this bottom spit. Then the
good soil originally taken from the top can be put in its proper
position, adding well-decayed manure as the filling up proceeds.
This completed, a sprinkling of soot should be well worked into
the surface soil, with which a little superphosphate can be mixed
with advantage. Remember to sow very thinly in the case of
the giant podded sorts, for they develop plants five or six feet
high. When the plants are up a few inches they should be
earthed up, pushing the soil well among them with the hands.
Then staking should follow, using good ash or hazel boughs.
If the weather is very dry, the plants will be benefited by a
good watering twice a week, and a little nitrate of soda will
make the growth more vigorous.

Those who have heavy, badly-drained soil will be handicapped
as regards early Peas, as, owing to very heavy rainfall, the
land is often waterlogged. It will repay growers to forward
their early crops by sowing under glass. A much better selec-
tion may be made, too, as one can grow sorts which, if sown
in cold, wet soil would fail. When sown under glass it is not
necessary to use fire-heat, provided the seeds are sown suffi-
ciently early, and though germination is slower, the plants
will be large enough by the time our variable seasons permit
of planting out. Seeds may be sown in cold frames, or any
cool glasshouse, but the young plants should be stood as near
the glass as possible so soon as they appear above the soil;
while, if grown in cold frames, care must be taken to give
sufficient shelter should the weather be very severe. When
sowing I would advise the use of a loamy soil, as this induces

LEGUMINOUS VEGETABLES 47

strong root action. It is an excellent plan to sow in pieces
of turves, obtainable from a good pasture, keeping a sharp look-
out that no wire- worm is present therein. Perhaps it is safer
to use turf that has been cut some little time and stacked.
Place the strips of turf close together in the frame or house,
grass side downward. Draw a light drill in the fibrous soil
down centre of each strip, and sow the seeds evenly, afterwards
covering with some good soil. The frame must then be kept
closed until the seedlings break through, when careful ventila-
tion will be required. At the time of planting out, the turves
can be lifted with the mass of roots, and placed in well-prepared
drills or shallow trenches. For smaller quantities, five-inch
pots are doubtless more useful, although the root-ball is often
broken, thus injuring the roots when planting. Eight or nine
seeds may be sown in each pot, thinning the resulting plants
to the six strongest and best-placed. Avoid forcing of any
kind. Another excellent way is to sow seeds in boxes. The
seedlings from this process lift well if the soil is made firm and
the boxes are not too deep. A little moisture will be necessary
till growth is active ; later on, ventilate freely in fine weather,
and plant firmly.

GROWING PEAS FOR EXHIBITION is not an exacting operation
when suitable soil is provided. The main point is to secure
well-formed pods filled with a regular row of the largest Peas
that can be induced to form therein ; and this is a matter of
skill on the part of the grower. No amount of instructions
can ever replace individual, personal, skilful attention to details
and essentials. A deep, well- worked, richly-manured soil is
one of the latter, but it must be sweet and clean also, otherwise
disease and insects will certainly step in. Wide planting is
another ; whilst the provision of moisture and liquid manure
may be left to the intelligence of the would-be exhibitor. As
a large number of pods will not be required, the small space
devoted to the plants may well be given every attention to
ensure success, such as the entire removal of indifferent soil,
the careful mixture of well-rotted manure, soot, charred refuse,
wood-ashes, the selection of a site calculated to afford the greatest
amount of light and air, and yet allow of the retention of
sufficient ^moisture at the roots. All such essentials will, of
course, be carefully planned and provided. Then follows the
selection of the pods which show the most promise, and these
should be carefully marked, all others which might affect the
development of these precious specimens being removed, if

48 VEGECULTURE

thought proper. A sufficiency of selected pods should be
allowed to remain, however, as a reserve stock is never to be
despised. The selected plants should have an occasional
dose of liquid manure, and not more than two or three pods
be allowed to stay on each plant. It rests thereafter with the
grower to see that these selections develop to the quality and
size desired. When ready to gather, do not handle the pods,
but cut them off with a pair of scissors, for the destruction of
the " bloom " spoils their attractiveness and chances of suc-
cessful competition with more carefully managed specimens.

There is such a bewildering array of varieties, heights,
constitutions, and claims of superiority among Peas that it
becomes a difficult operation to make a fair and impartial
selection.

The early sorts are mostly dwarf or of medium height. The
Pilot and Peter Pan are the earliest Peas yet introduced ; may
be sown in autumn. Telephone and Telegraph are two grand
old sorts found in every garden where tall Peas are grown.
Tall Sugar Peas possess edible pods. For the main crop
there is a choice selection of three- to six-foot sorts ; and
for the last sowings (in May and June) the best variety,
perhaps, is Autocrat. Besides the above, there have been
introduced lately Peas of immense size which deserve the
attention of all who exhibit.

PEA MILDEW (EresipheMartii). — This disease is very common,
especially on light soils and in dry weather, particularly towards
the close of the season. The fungus at first makes appearance
on the surface of the leaves, which become whitened on both
sides, and fade to a pale yellow colour. Dry weather is pro-
pitious to its development ; wet checks its progress. Nourish-
ment, such as mulching, watering, and syringing in dry seasons,
is the best moderator of its evil influence. Applications of
potash and nitrate of soda after the first pods are set are helpful ;
and sulphide of potassium (one ounce to four gallons of water)
will arrest the mildew.

SCARLET RUNNERS (Phaseolus multiflorus) — I shall not be
far wrong, if I say that there is hardly a garden, large or small,
wherein is not seen the Scarlet Runner ; and a reminder or two
concerning the culture of these vegetables will not be wasted.
As the plants are voracious feeders and appreciate a cool,
moist root-run, no pains should be spared in providing them
with these essentials. The stout roots also penetrate the soil

LEGUMINOUS VEGETABLES 49

to a considerable depth, so that it well repays to break it up at
least two spits deep. With the lower spit plenty of partially-
decayed manure should be mixed. If the soil is sandy, cow or
pig manure is best ; but if clay is the principal element, that
from horses is preferable. Some superphosphate or steamed
bone-meal — a good handful of either to each yard run of row —
should be strewn upon the surface and dug lightly in. If the
soil is very stiff clay, burnt earth, old potting soil, road scrapings,
anything of a porous nature that will tend to render it more
friable, may be added. The time usually selected for sowing
Runner Beans is the second week in May ; it is inadvisable to
sow earlier because the plants are so easily injured by frost.
In cold districts, and where early crops are desired, the best
plan is to sow the seeds in pots or deep boxes and bring the
plants along in a cold frame, transplanting them to their per-
manent quarters about the end of May. Where such a system
is adopted, it is highly essential that the plants be grown on
as sturdily as possible ; any attempt at forcing results in weak,
attentuated specimens, unfit for cultivation. In sowing out-
doors, make a trench about three inches deep and fifteen inches
wide ; this facilitates watering during hot weather. The seeds
should be sown in two rows in the trench, placing them eight
inches apart in the rows and leaving the rows about ten inches
asunder. Two inches is about the right depth to sow. When
the seedlings appear, steps must be taken to guard them against
slugs, which are particularly fond of them. Apart from trap-
ping the pests, ashes, soot, or lime may be sprinkled round
the plants, but the soot or lime must not touch the foliage.
As soon as the plants begin to run, stout stakes, twine, or coarse
netting about six feet high must be placed for them to climb.
The plants will climb much higher than six feet, however, if
supports are available. The plants may be topped — i.e., the
centres pinched out when about one foot high — if desired ;
but this is far from an ideal method of growing Runner Beans,
for wherever a pod rests on the ground its flavour is impaired.
During hot weather, and particularly when the plants commence
to flower, copious supplies of water must be afforded, with
weak liquid manure, once a week. When the plants reach
the tops of their supports, the growing point of each
should be nipped out. The Scarlet Runner is a perennial,
and roots may be either left in the ground, with a protective
covering, or pulled up, tied in bundles and hung up in
a dry shed all winter. Planted out next season, these

50 VEGECUJ/IURE

roots will spring into life and afford a supply of Beans much
earlier than from seed-sowing. It should be particularly noted
that, although the pods and young seeds are edible and harmless,
the matured seeds are very poisonous, and should be kept out
of the way of children. The Scarlet Runner has been of late
greatly improved, and fine strains may be bought.

Other excellent Runner Beans may be found in the Painted
Lady, an ornamental variety, the white-flowered Czar, and
the variety that produces those enormous, yard-long pods,
which is more novel than useful. The tall " Butter Beans "
are also worthy of notice, for they are extremely tender and a
great table delicacy. Mont D'Or and Early Golden Cluster
are two of the best of these.

Although few vegetables enjoy more popularity than the
Scarlet Runner or climbing Kidney Bean, many growers fail to
give the plants rational treatment, as may be inferred from the
poor crops of small pods (especially in -towns), which are often
the rule. These poor crops may usually be traced to out-of-
date varieties, sowing on poor ground, overcrowded rows,
inadequate support, and too little attention after pods begin to
form. If justice is to be done to a plant capable of growing
twelve or more feet in height, and flowering and setting pods
throughout its entire length, the provision of a root-run, three
feet deep, into which manure of some sort has been freely added,
is most essential.

The overcrowded row is a great mistake. Many sorts are
quite capable of growing pods eighteen inches long, but only
where plenty of room is afforded ; and for such as these, one
foot between the plants must be the smallest space allowed,
If grown in a double row, allow a foot and a half between the
rows. Plants growing under these conditions must also have
good stakes, ten to twelve feet long, to support the strong
growth. This allows of a foot or more being in the ground,
ensuring safety from wind. By the advent of August the
full length will be covered with extra large leaves, forming an
impenetrable fence, ensuring privacy in what might otherwise
be an exposed garden. Runner Beans are essentially moisture-
loving plants, and any serious lack of this is soon apparent.
In giving water do not make the fatal mistake of using it fresh
drawn from the tap or pump. Overhead syringing, especially
after the flowers open, is greatly beneficial. It should be remem-
bered that pods too old for use are not only worthless, but their
presence prevents further growth .

LEGUMINOUS VEGETABLES 51

FRENCH OR KIDNEY BEANS (Phaseolus vulgaris).— This
class of Bean may be described as being of a very delicate
character so far as flavour is concerned ; but they must be
well-grown to ensure this quality. So far as soil is concerned,
even one of poor constitution will give a fair return if planted
with Kidney Beans ; but that is no excuse for attempting such
unfair culture. A deep, light, rich soil — sandy loam, for
example — is excellent for this vegetable, and will give it a chance
to withstand the hottest weather without a great amount of
attention as to watering. One essential in the culture of Kidney
Beans is wide planting; nothing is gained by overcrowding.
To produce an early crop, seeds should be sown under glass,
in boxes or pots filled with fibrous soil in which the roots may
penetrate and fix themselves ; this facilitates transplanting,
which may be done in May. Growth under these conditions
must not be forced, for stout, sturdy plants are necessary to
ensure success. A rich soil, well exposed to the sun's influence,
should be given to these firstlings, and a little protection until
establishment is assured will not be wasted. The plants are
best planted in wide holes, keeping the ball of roots intact.
The main crops are sown successively from the last week in
April until the end of July, in the open ground. The seeds
should be dropped along the drill at intervals of six to twelve
inches, according to the variety sown ; or at three-inch intervals,
and the surplus plants removed and replanted elsewhere.
Kidney Beans are not at all exacting in their demands upon the
grower's attention ; if the soil is right, and kept open, moist,
and free from weeds, the Beans will bear abundantly. In
gathering French Beans, every pod must be removed when of
fair size ; for if allowed to mature and the seeds to swell, further
production is immediately stopped, and the plants cease bearing
altogether. A mulch between the rows in dry weather will greatly
assist in the formation of pods and the prolongation of bearing.

The variations in French Beans are seemingly inexhaustible.
Some are quaintly and prettily marked, others produce hand-
some flowers, and others again pods of peculiar shape. All,
however, are good and delicate, and should be tried in turn as
interesting novelties and a welcome change from the ordinary.
For early use, Ne Plus Ultra, Pale Dun, and Earliest of All
are excellent, and the first-named forces well. The general
crop may contain Canadian Wonder, Golden Butter, and any
of the French and Jersey kinds ; whilst Excelsior and Negro
Mammoth are good exhibition kinds.

52 VEGECULTURE

French Beans lend themselves very readily to forcing. A
good plan is to sow a few seeds every week or fortnight, so that
a succession may be relied on, in four-inch pots (five seeds in each) ,
and then to shift them on into larger pots in which to bear
pods. Any old potting soil will serve, and a little old manure
should be added when putting the Beans into their fruiting
pots. A temperature of sixty degrees forms a good forcing
heat. It is imperative that the Beans be freely exposed to
light, that they be well syringed to keep them free from red
spider, and that they be supported by twiggy sticks as soon as
they are needed. If a greenhouse is not available for the pur-
pose, a heated frame will serve the purpose admirably. Nc
Plus Ultra is an old variety which may be thoroughly depended
on. The climbing French Bean is also good for forcing, but
not for those with limited accommodation.

It must not be supposed that the ordinary Runner and Dwarf
Beans exhaust the list of these vegetables, for there are many
others, quite distinct, in shape, flavour, and natural charac-
teristics, and which are extensively used in the country to which
they are native. Many of these have been introduced into
France, and have found favour there, but have not made much
headway in Britain. To mention some of them, there are :
The LIMA BEAN (PJiascolus lunatus) ; the DOLICHOS, an orna-
mental species, grown in conservatories, with beautiful blue
flowers ; the ASPARAGUS BEAN (Dolichos sesquipedalis) ; the
LABLAB or EGYPTIAN BEAN (Lablab vulgar is) ; besides Chinese,
Canadian, Algerian, Bulgarian, Japanese, New Zealand, and
Mexican species.

THE BROAD BEAN (Faba vulgaris or Vicia faba).— This
Bean is a vegetable of great antiquity, and one of the first to
come into use in the earlier portion of the year. Broad Beans
like a deep, rich, strong, even heavy soil ; a liberal dressing
of manure should be applied to light soils. If sown early, the
first gatherings may be made by June; and to secure this,
sowings may be made either in October, November, and
December during mild weather ; or, failing that, the seeds may
be sown in pots or boxes under glass or in a frame and the plants
placed in their intended stations when of fair size. Ordinary
sowings for main-crop purposes are made in February and
March ; and, if a succession is wanted, in April and May. Many
gardeners will have noticed that some of the seeds — often the

LEGUMINOUS VEGETABLES 53

best — are pierced with a small hole, the work of an insect,
probably still in the seed. These Beans are often regarded as
worthless, and consequently they have been thrown away.
This is an altogether unnecessary course to adopt, for repeated
experiments show that seeds such as these are quite capable
of germinating well, and developing into plants as strong and
healthy as others not attacked.

The seeds may be soaked in water for a few hours to accelerate
germination, and sown in rows about four or five inches apart,
and two or three inches deep. They may be dibbled in or
deep drills drawn, according to the nature of the soil. When
the plants are a few inches high, they should be slightly
earthed up, especially the early batches, for these are easily affected
by frost. After sufficient bloom has been produced to ensure a
good crop, the tops of the plants should be pinched off ; this
will ward off an attack of the dreaded black fly. If sown in a
deep soil, it is not often necessary to supply water to Broad
Bean plants ; but if a hot spell of weather sets in a mulch over
the roots will be found beneficial. Bone-meal, soot, super-
phosphate, and liquid manure may be applied to the soil before
and after the crop is put therein, and all manurial applications
will be regulated by the quality of the soil and the prosperity
of the growing crop. Broad Beans can be grown to a great size
by good culture and a judicious use of fertilizers. The Early
Magazan is probably the best variety for the earliest sowings —
on a rather dry, warm and sheltered border in November, in
boxes under glass in January, or in the open ground at the end
of February. For the main crop, the Longpods are useful ;
also Aquadulce, Bunyard's Exhibition, and one or two others
may be considered for selection as a main crop or for exhibition.
For later sowings, the Windsor section may be drawn upon.

The beans, not the pods, are cooked, and if gathered before
maturation has been completed — full-grown but still young —
and properly cooked and served, they make a very delicate
and tasty dish ; although Broad Beans are not sought after like
Scarlet Runners or French Kidneys are, many people confining
their desires to one or two dishes only in the season as a palatable
change.

SECTION IV

TUBEROUS ROOTED VEGETABLES

TUBEROUS-ROOTED vegetables, represented by the
household Potato, may be generally given a light soil,
the wisdom of which proceeding is exemplified in the
fact of the large amount of room required for tuber develop-
ment, and the fatal results which must ensue if a hard, unyielding
soil is to be fought during such development. Waterlogged
ground, too, is to be avoided ; and depredations by slugs, and
wire-worms, are to be guarded against. The other members of
this group are well worth consideration. The gardener possess-
ing a light, sandy soil, well manured, and the means of main-
taining a fair moisture, has the best medium for tuber-production.

THE POTATO (Solanum tuberosum) .— The humble Potato
is generally supposed to be simply an article of diet, but there
are other uses made of it. By chemically treating them,
Potatoes are quickly turned into a beautiful hard substance
from which many so-called ivory articles are made. Enormous
quantities of starch are also made from Potatoes. In America
16,000 tons are annually used for this purpose, the starch being
obtained from small tubers thrown out during grading; sixty
bushels yield one barrel of starch. Spirits and other chemical
products are also obtained from Potatoes.

For edible purposes, the Potato has proved itself invaluable.
At the present moment of writing, the Potato supply is a burning
question in certain quarters, and a most important one in nearly
every country, thus showing the large part Potatoes take in
providing the world's food. A wise gardener is he who grows
Potatoes — but there are limits to such action ! A great mistake
is made by possessors of small gardens endeavouring to raise a
quantity of main-crop Potatoes from a piece of ground of small

54

TUBEROUS-ROOTED VEGETABLES 55

dimensiorls. Potatoes grown in bulk require much space ;
therefore, where the latter is limited, a few rows of the early
short-haulm varieties should be planted — aye, even twice during
the year ! An available greenhouse or frame also may be well
utilized by the skilful gardener to obtain tubers ; for, however
small, new Potatoes are always welcome.

The secret of Potato culture consists in the constant stirring-
up of the soil. From the moment the purple head of the shoot
appears above the surface of the ground the hoe or fork should
never allow the soil to rest for any length of time. Hoeing,
breaking up lumps, large and small, loosening all soil with a
tendency to settle down firmly, applying soot, wood or vegetable
ashes, and perhaps a little artificial manure at the same time —
this is the process that aids the formation of the popular tuber
in all soils : strenuous cultivation, in fact !

There are varieties of Potatoes to suit certain soils ; and it
is a wise plan to take note of this when choosing the sorts to be
grown. The soil which suits the Potato in general is a deep,
thoroughly-drained, sandy loam ; but this is not always in
evidence, unfortunately. The Potato, however, is an accom-
modating plant, and will thrive more or less on most soils,
especially if measures are taken to improve those soils by
digging and trenching the heavy, and manuring the light
ground. Organic manure, by the way, should always be applied
in the autumn, if at all, never in the spring ; and ground that
is rich in old manure and vegetable matter (that which has been
applied for a previous crop), is the best medium.

Some time before planting, the " sets " should be placed
close together in shallow boxes, " eyes " upwards, and put in a
light place (near the glass in greenhouse or conservatory, or a
shed with glass roof or skylight), until the sprouts begin to turn
green and purple. When in this state, they may be planted
with a certainty of quicker results than would obtain if planted
earlier without being allowed to sprout in the light.

There are several methods of planting. On light ground only
should the dibble be used ; the hole thus made would in heavier
soils simply form a receptacle to hold rain-water, wherein the
" set " would rot instead of growing. On medium and heavily-
inclined staples, planting should be performed while trenching
is being done — i.e., a spade-deep trench is taken out, the subsoil
broken up and pulverized, and the row of " sets " placed upon
it ; then the next spit of surface-soil is dug and thrown over the
" sets," Two or three feet of ground are next dug in a similar

56 VEGECUtTURE

fashion, which will allow sufficient space, when another row of
Potato " sets " may be planted. This system, I consider, is
the best method of planting the tubers ; the soil lies loosely
both under and over the " sets," and forms an excellent medium
for a spreading subject like the Potato, which requires ample and
free room for development. A deeper trench is best excavated
in sticky, clayey soil, the bottom broken up or loosened, and
the opening partly filled with a compost consisting of any light
soil that may be obtainable, with soot, salt, ashes, sand, road-
scrapings, old spent manure, chopped turves, burnt rubbish,
and similar light and porous materials, the " sets " being covered
with similar compost. During subsequent growth, the inter-
vening soil may be forked over and the same class of materials
incorporated until it becomes of better consistency, suitable
for being drawn around the young shoots, which operation
should be a gradual and continuous one throughout the whole
period of growth.

Superphosphates, sulphates of ammonia and potash, and
guano are good Potato artificial manures. Nitrate of soda
tends to produce a " waxy " Potato ; lime, if applied, should be
put on the ground some time before planting.

To ensure a supply of new Potatoes throughout the whole
summer, keep back a number of seed-size tubers of the early
varieties. Store these with their eyes upwards, exposed to all
the light possible, in a cool place. When the earliest crops are
being dug, in June, and a few roots are lifted, replant the same
piece of ground from the tubers in store, repeating the process
until the middle of July. Jhe state of the ground at this season
favours a very rapid growth, and in a few days after planting
the shoots will appear above the ground. A week later give
a good dressing of soot or a little nitrate of soda, and earth up
immediately afterwards. Good-sized tubers from this second
planting may usually be dug early in September.

Those who force a few early Potatoes will find Sharpe's Victor,
if old, still a very reliable variety. The dwarf haulm renders it
specially adapted for this purpose, and if it is not such a heavy
cropper as some of the newer kinds, its qualities are undeniable.
For early work in the open Sharpe's Victor is also valuable, for
if planted in a warm and sheltered border early in March it is
ready for use in May.

POTATOES IN POTS. — Early Potatoes may be had by the
possessor of a greenhouse or other structure from which frost is
excluded, the secret being to afford the plants unobstructed

TUBEROUS-ROOTED VEGETABLES 57

light, and give them air on all favourable occasions. The
temperature may range from fifty degrees at night, a little
air being admitted, to sixty-five degrees by day, with full
ventilation. This accords with the usual greenhouse tempera-
ture from and after the early part of February, in which Potatoes
in pots do exceedingly well, if arranged in light positions on
the borders or on shelves. Potatoes to be forced must first
be sprouted by being placed in trays of leaf-soil on a
greenhouse shelf in a light position. Short-topped varieties
are the most suitable. The soil should be in a moist
condition at planting ; and very little water will be
required for a time. The shoots on the tubers should be
some three-quarters of an inch below the surface, and the surface
of the soil at least three inches from the top of the pot. When
once rooting has commenced, liquid supplies will be needed,
always giving enough to thoroughly moisten the soil. Super-
phosphate four parts, sulphate of potash one part, and magnesia
one part, forms a good manure to use in liquid form, given at the
rate of half an ounce to one gallon of water. When the plants
are near maturity, keep them on the dry side in order to secure
high quality in the tubers. Potatoes can, of course, be forced in
a frame, providing that a good steady hotbed is available.

Potatoes may also be propagated by means of the "eyes"
or embryo shoots, a quarter-inch long, furnished at the base
with embryo roots. The sprouted " eyes " should be removed
with a portion of the tuber attached. These detached portions
are planted three inches deep and twelve to fifteen inches apart.
Each shoot should be surrounded by a handful or two of good
light soil and leaf-mould to encourage free rooting. The " eyes "
may be also planted in small pots, and placed in a frame until
well rooted, then planted out. Before planting or potting the
" eyes," rub a little lime on the cut surfaces of the base to
prevent premature decay. It is the choice, new, or expensive
varieties that usually receive this treatment ; but this plan is
to be recommended in gardens with limited space, or for the
purposes of producing early Potatoes.

When storing Potatoes for winter, preference should always
be given to a dry rather than a damp situation. The hole should
be cut out a foot or so wider than the heap of Potatoes it is
intended to build in it. Cover the bottom of the location with
several inches of dry cinders or ashes, and over this place a layer
of straw. Go carefully over the Potatoes, and remove all
diseased tubers, for if these are allowed to remain, the heat

58 VEGECfLTURE

generated will soon set up conditions favourable to the rapid
development of disease, and very soon a large quantity will have
become affected. If the tubers are thoroughly dry, there will
be no need to delay the covering up ; if dampness is feared,
however, it will be better to leave the final covering for a few
days, unless wet weather intervenes. Straw is a good material
for placing on top of the tubers. A thick layer should be pro-
vided, and upon this put soil, at least a foot in thickness, leaving
a hole in the top to allow any heat which may be present to
escape, a small quantity of straw being sufficient protection
if needed. Neglect to provide this ventilation hole is always
fatal, as the state of the interior of the heap is not suspected,
until one day the grower finds the side fallen in, arid nothing
but a putrid mass is to be seen. Small quantities may be stored
in cellars or outhouses, where light and frost can be excluded.
Darkness is very essential to prevent " greening " of the skins,
which greatly deteriorates the edible value of the tuber, and
renders it unsafe for eating purposes ; therefore, do not expose
to the light. The Potatoes may be stored in a sloping heap at
the side of a wall, or in a shallow heap on the floor. When
placed in position cover the tubers with a layer of straw ; they
will then keep safe and sound.

Varieties in Potatoes are very numerous, suited to various
soils, seasons, and localities. A good seedsman's list should be
consulted before purchasing seed tubers. A selection should
be made from each of the three classes of Potatoes — Early
(represented by Sharp's. Express or Victor and Ashleaved sorts);
Mid-season (such as British Queen) ; and Late (Up-to-Date, An an
Chief, etc.).

SAVING POTATOES FOR SEED. — Tubers of a suitable size for
planting next season should be selected. The average size of seed
tuber is one weighing about two and a half ounces. Spread the
tubers out in the open to " green," and then place them vertically
on their narrow ends in shallow boxes, and store these in light,
airy sheds, not in dark positions, as this induces premature
sprouting and weakening of the tubers. So many gardeners
do not pay proper attention either to the selection of their seed
Potatoes or to the after treatment of the sets. To this, more
than anything else, may be attributed the indifferent crops
and the want of character of many varieties. An eye should
be kept on the tubers, rubbing off all side shoots as they appear,
but reserving those at the top. Allow two to remain, and if
they are very strong, the weaker is removed at planting time.

TUBEROUS-ROOTED \7EGETABLES 59

Seed tubers thus properly prepared never shrivel, but keep
as plump as when lifted from the soil.

THE POTATO DISEASE (Phylophlhora infestans) develops about
midsummer. Yellow spots appear on the leaves, and spread
quickly in humid weather, eventually assuming a dark brown
colour. On the under surface a mound of spores is produced.
The result of germination of these spores is that the young
tubers either remain quiescent or become putrid, according
to conditions of weather and other circumstances. The tubers
so infested are said to be " brown," are unfit for consumption
by man. Tubers of infested stock should not be used for
" seed." It has been found useful to spray the crop with
Bordeaux mixture (see Appendix). This work should be per.
formed at two or three operations, the latter if the season is a
wet one and the disease bad — the first spraying in June, the
second about the middle of July, and again towards the end
of that month ; this prevents the spread of the disease, and
also prolongs the season of growth, hence the crop will be heavier
than a similar crop left unsprayed. As the early varieties are
not often materially affected, it is the winter varieties which
need to be sprayed. Where the area to be sprayed is not large,
it is well to buy the ready-made mixture.

POTATO LEAF-CURL is in some seasons very common among
Potatoes. One plot may be badly affected while another close
by is quite free from it ; and it is likely to recur unless the
precaution is taken to get healthy tubers, and to plant them in
uninfected ground. The most obvious symptom is the curled
leaves, accompanied by very poor growth. If a plant is dug
up the reason will be seen at once, for the tuber will be found
to be as firm as when it was put in the ground. In other words,
the young plant has not been able to grow because it has some-
how been deprived of its natural food.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Helianthus tuberosus).— A per-
ennial Sunflower, native of North America, producing underground
shoots which swell into excellent tubers, this useful vegetable is
so well known as to hardly need description ; and its culture
is simplicity itself. In fact, so prolific is this plant, that it
often becomes a nuisance in the garden, for the smallest piece
of tuberous root left in the ground will form a new plant — in a
spot where it is probably desired to plant some other subject.
The plants rise to a height of from four to six feet, rarely produce
flowers, but are very useful as a hedge or screen. They flourish

60 VEGECtfLTURE

fairly well on a poor soil, if light ; but a generous culture will
give far better tubers than those of neglected plants. They
are in their best condition when the stems have ceased growing,
and begin to wither. Frost does not hurt the tubers, which
may be left in the ground all the winter. These Artichokes
may be eaten raw in salads — a most excellent ingredient, too,
if sliced thinly ; or they may be boiled, like Potatoes, and served
up as a separate dish. They must be boiled unpeeled, receiving
a thorough cleansing only ; and if allowed to stand long, after
they are cooked, before consumption, the slight discoloration
that usually characterizes the skins will deepen, and the vege-
tables become unsightly in appearance. Personally, I cannot
recommend them as a " tasty " dish !

THE CHINESE ARTICHOKE (Stachys tuber i/ 'era). —A most
peculiar plant is this Artichoke, thoroughly and typically
Chinese in appearance, with tuberous rhizomes, which possess
white, very fine skins, and tender, though somewhat watery,
flesh. The plant forms a dense little bush of leaves, and pro-
duces tubers very late in the season close to the surface, after
the manner of the Potato or the Jerusalem Artichoke ; indeed,
the foliage and stems begin to wither, as a rule, ere the forma-
tion of tubers has reached its limit. The rhizomes are planted
in good, light or sandy soil, from February to April, according
to weather conditions, about twelve inches apart. The subse-
quent culture is simple — the elimination of weeds, hoeing
occasionally, and the provision of water in dry weather. The
tubers mature in October, and, as they do not keep very well,
should be lifted only as required for the table. Their uses in
the latter direction maybe in the form of a raw salad ingredient,
or fried as a vegetable.

SKIRRET (Slum sisarum). — This is a tuberous-rooted sub-
ject, usually classed with Herbs, and regarded as a native
of China, though it has been cultivated in Europe for many
centuries. The tubers, somewhat resembling Dahlia roots,
but longer and more slender, are produced in a bunch just
beneath the surface of the soil, and, if the medium is a favourable
one, push downwards and attain a good length. The flesh of
these tubers is very firm, white and sweet, and floury when
cooked ; the one drawback in its cooking is the central hard
core, which has to be removed before the tuber is boiled. How-
ever, good cultivation will produce flesh in preference to core ;

TUBEROUS-ROOTED VEGETABLES 61

and it is said that divisions or root-cuttings are productive of
tubers that contain a much reduced core ; moreover, careful
selection of roots will also go far towards eliminating this woody
heart from an otherwise excellent vegetable.

Skirret is propagated by seeds, offsets and divisions or
cuttings of the roots. The seed is sown either in autumn or
early spring, and when the seedlings possess four or five leaves,
they are transplanted to their permanent positions. The soil
for all purposes concerning Skirret must be very rich, friable,
moist, and well cultivated. Division of roots, cuttings, or off-
sets are planted in March and April, and the subsequent plants
treated like those raised from seeds. Copious supplies of
moisture and occasionally liquid manure applications are
desirable all through the growing season. The tubers quickly
form and grow well until the autumn, when they may be taken
up for use or left in the ground until required. They are quite
hardy, and the effects of frost need not be feared. In the
hands of the cook, Skirret may be treated in the same manner
as Salsify and similar roots. Experimenters with this subject
should try the effects of a few seasons' rigid selection, with the
object of reducing the objectionable woody core to vanishing
point ; then they would possess a most excellent vegetable of
great merit and worth.

NASTURTIUM (TUBEROUS-ROOTED) (Tropceolum tuberosum). —
This native of South America cannot be said to be a very good
vegetable, but useful as an ornament. It is a climber, with
yellow-orange flowers, and could be used for beautifying an
unsightly spot in the kitchen-garden. The tubers are rather
pretty and curious in appearance, of the size of a hen's egg,
and are planted in April or May, the produce being taken up
at the latter end of autumn. Frost will not harm the tubers,
however, while they remain in the ground. The culture is
very easy and simple, using the hoe to keep the soil loose ; an
open position is the most suitable one. The tubers are boiled
like Carrots or Potatoes, and are rather watery and of indifferent
flavour. I recommend them chiefly for ornamental purposes.

OKA PLANT (Oxalis crenata). — This is another curious
tuberous plant, the roots of which are used as a vegetable. It
is a member of the Oxalis Family, in which are other species
bearing edible roots. The Oka plant is propagated from tubers,
planted in May in a rich, light soil, or preferably started into

62 VEGECW/TURE

growth in heat and planted out afterwards. The stems spread
to a considerable extent, and require earthing-up to induce
tuber-formation ; these stems are killed by the advent of frost,
and the tubers are then lifted and stored. When fresh, the
Oka tubers are unpleasantly acid, but this can be altered by
hanging them up in bags to dry in the sun or a warm room,
when they become sweet and floury. If kept thus hanging for
several weeks they shrivel up, and in that state resemble in
flavour dried Figs. The tubers are of good size, and may be
eaten raw, in addition to the young shoots and leaves, as a
salad.

SECTION V

VEGETABLES IN TRENCHES

GROWING vegetables in trenches has mainly a two-fold
object — to blanch the matured hearts, stalks, or leaves ;
and an adequate provision of nutriment-laden moisture.
Certain vegetables — Celery and Leeks, for example — are far
from eatable in their natural green state, and require con-
siderable blanching to become at all palatable. Others, ordi-
narily grown upon the level ground, are greatly benefited by
being planted in shallow trenches which will hold moisture or a
mulch in very dry weather ; Peas and Beans are examples of
this system of culture. Wherever the soil is prone to excessive
dryness, or exposed to drying winds, the utilization of trenches
or light depressions would probably enable crops to be grown
that otherwise present an utter impossibility. Strong manures,
preferably liquid, are the best for trench-work : soot, cow-
manure, guano, are three excellent fertilizers, and the first-
named may be used liberally.

CELERY ( Apium graveolens). — Here we have a most palatableh
healthful vegetable, requiring long, continuous, strenuous growt,
to bring to perfection, yet presenting few difficulties that cannot
be overcome by the gardener with a fair soil and some per-
severance and common sense. Celery has its drawbacks,
certainly^-chiefly on account of space requirements, labour,
and the provision of adequate supplies of nutriment-laden
moisture ; but these disabilities — existing chiefly where there
is a lack of available means and materials (in which case, Celery
culture had better not be attempted) — are well counterbalanced
by the advantages derived from the production of well-grown,
well-blanched, crisp " sticks " of Celery, upon which one may
depend for use in winter salads, soups, etc. ; and the fact that

63

64 VEGEC.ULTURE

a garden may, in time, receive a thorough deep trenching and
subsoil manuring, by a system of devoting a different portion
of the ground each year to Celery-trenches, which could not
very well be given to it otherwise ; for the breaking up of the
subsoil, and the absorption thereof of enormous manurial
applications — principally liquid — must eventually bring about
a reaction in the most stubborn soil, and eventually produce a
splendid state of friability and fertility.

There are several methods of growing Celery. Some persons
prefer a trench with one row of plants down its centre ; others
provide a much wider trench, and plant two rows instead of one ;
while an excellent system, where circumstances warrant, is to
take out a trench four or five feet wide — excavating, indeed, a
sunken bed — across which the plants are set in rows. Too
deep and narrow trenches are often the cause of much trouble.
Celery, like other vegetable plants, must have light and air
to facilitate growth, and the trenches are only provided to meet
its two main requirements— the abundant provision of enormous
supplies of clear and manurial liquid, and the necessity of
thoroughly blanching the stalks.

Celery, in its natural habitat, is a waterside plant, in which
state it is neither desirable or useful, as its properties are then
poisonous rather than beneficial ; hence, even under cultivation
its green leaves and stalks retain much that is injurious to the
consumer, this disability being effectively got rid of by the
process of blanching.

Again it is necessary to emphasize — and it is so often for-
gotten!— that Celery requires ample air, light, and space for
development ; and it is only when maturity is within reasonable
distance, and the plants are to be prepared for edible purposes,
that these growing essentials may be withdrawn ; even then,
only to a certain extent, for when the Celery is earthed up
a limited amount of air and light penetrates the covering.
Therefore, Celery plants may not be planted in what is really
a damp, narrow ditch, cut out of a hard soil, with any expecta-
tion of good results being indulged in by the grower.

Seeds of this vegetable are sown early in the year, under
glass, upon a hotbed or hot-water pipes in the greenhouse, or
in a propagator. Germination is somewhat slow. The seedlings
must be pricked out early. into boxes or frames, and grown on
sturdily dose to the glass. When they have attained a handy
size, a very rich bed should be prepared for their reception, in
a warm position, wherein they are transplanted, and given every

VEGETABLES IN TRENCHES 65

encouragement to progress in size until they are ready to plant
in the trenches.

There, is no vegetable in the garden that responds more to
good culture than Celery. It should be remembered that the
plant is a gross feeder, requiring copious supplies of water and
liquid manure. Plants while growing should never lack water.
In order to facilitate thorough watering, the trenches should
be formed with a slight incline from top to bottom, so that,
when water is poured into the trench at the top end, it runs
away slowly all along amongst the plants to the bottom end.
By this method it is impossible for superfluous water to remain
in the trenches. Liquid manure can be applied two or three
times weekly. Horse and cow manure make good fertilizers,
and an occasional application of weak liquid made from fowl
manure may also be given. Soot water is very beneficial.
Liquid manure must not be allowed to fall on or to splash any
of the leaves.

To check green-fly and maggots, a little dry lime and soot
should be spread thinly over the foliage and trench ; but to
eradicate them successfully, a solution of soft soap and water
should be sprayed on to the plants. Let this remain on for a
day or two ; then, if dry weather prevails, clear water may be
used.

Earthing-up can be commenced at any time after the plants
have attained adult size, choosing a time when the soil is quite
dry. Some growers earth-up their Celery at one operation ;
others proceed gradually, filling in a few inches of soil when
the plants are fairly strong and have got above the trenches.
The main earthing-up is given when the plants are nearly full
grown. As winter approaches the later rows should be earthed-
up as high as possible. A simple plan for blanching is to place
a drain-pipe over the plant, or to wrap the stems in brown paper
or similar material. When earthing-up, the left hand should
clasp all the stems firmly together, and, with the aid of a
trowel in the right hand, the soil should be worked around and
pressed carefully close to each plant. Good blanching usually
takes from five to seven weeks.

The culture for show purposes is much the same as for table
vise, with the exception that extra attention is necessary in
watering, manuring, liquid manuring, and prevention of damage,
however slight, to stems and foliage. Quite three times the
space should be allowed the plants in the trenches — at least
eighteen inches apart. Blanching with soil should not be done ;
6

66 VEGECULTURE

instead, wrap brown paper, three folds thick, from bottom to
top of each plant, so that only top portion of the foliage remains
visible.

The variations in Celery are numerous. There are white,
golden, pink, and red kinds to make a choice from, as well as
those tall and dwarf in size.

CELERIAC is a comparatively little-known variety of Celery,
in which the root has been developed by cultivation into
great size and usefulness. It is an excellent addition to our
supply of edible Turnip-rooted vegetables ; and, unlike its
parent the Celery, it is grown upon the level ground, after the
manner of other ball-shaped roots. But it must have a
good, rich, moist, well-manured soil, of proved mellowness
and friability. Its initial culture is exactly that of Celery —
raised from seeds in heat, and thereafter grown on sturdily,
and finally planted out, in May. Weeds must be kept down,
and copious supplies of water and liquid manure be given ;
otherwise no further attention is demanded. Old-fashioned
gardeners used to carefully remove all the side rootlets from
the bulb, under the impression that the main root attains larger
size ; but I am afraid such procedure — or, rather, the hopes
based on it — is a fallacy. However, I would suggest that such
an action would result in better-shaped roots. This vegetable
is boiled and served as a separate dish. It keeps well in the
store, and is valuable for winter use. There are several kinds,
or improvements on the orginal, possessing either early or late
qualities. Where water supply is a difficulty, Celeriac will
benefit by being grown in a very shallow trench.

CELERY FOR SOUPS is a plant differing but little from the
wild Celery. It sends up a number of tender shoots, which are
useful in soups as a seasoning ; and, after cutting, these are
replaced by fresh growth.

THE CELERY FLY. — A dredging of very fine soot over the
leaves on damp mornings is the very finest remedy for this
fly, which pierces the leaves and lays eggs in the tissue. The
larvae eat away the tissue below the surface of the leaf and
cause blisters. When first seen, the larvae or maggots should
be crushed between the finger and thumb persistently, or the
infested parts of leaves should be removed and burnt. Plenty
of water and liquid manure to the roots encourages growth,

VEGETABLES IN TRENCHES 67

and thus treated, plants often throw off the attacks. Soap-suds
(not carbolic) scattered over the foliage is also said to be effective.

LEEKS (Allium porrum). — This splendid vegetable is not
appreciated half as much as it deserves to be, nor is it grown on
a fair scale in our gardens ; although it is a winter vegetable of
utmost utility, requiring but a fair amount of care and labour
to produce. It may be described as essentially a trench subject,
on account of its affinity for copious supplies of nutritious
moisture ; yet it can be, and is, grown successfully upon the
level ground, providing attention to the provision of water is
given. Where the latter essential is difficult to ensure, trench-
culture will be found the best plan.

The most difficult point, with most amateurs especially, is
raising the young plants. Glass of some sort is necessary to
obtain plants in good time, and so is heat. To those who possess
both, the only instructions required to be given are that the
seed must be sown early in the year, after the manner of Celery,
in a fair temperature, and the young plants pricked out, to
strengthen, under glass, or on a warm border of rich soil outdoors,
where they remain until planting-out time. On the other hand,
small but very useful specimens may be obtained by sowing
the seed on a sheltered border as soon as the weather becomes
warm enough, without the aid of glass or artificial heat. Hand-
lights, frames, or pieces of glass may be utilized also.

Large Leeks are obtained by growing them in trenches filled
with very rich soil, but extra large specimens are not nearly
so useful as those of medium size. In ordinary seasons these
will be forthcoming if good plants are dibbled out nine inches
to a foot apart, on well-manured ground ; but in light soils it
will be a decided advantage to plant in shallow trenches, drawn
out with the hoe. Leeks revel in plenty of moisture, both at
the roots and overhead ; therefore in dry weather do not neglect
to use the watering-pot pretty freely. As soon as the plants
get well hold of the soil, the can should contain liquid manure
made from horse or cow manure, which is in itself sufficient
to grow Leeks of large size ; but growth will be more rapid,
if sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda, at the rate of half
an ounce to a gallon of liquid, is given once a fortnight.

To render Leeks fit for table use, thorough blanching is
necessary. This is accomplished by drawing the earth up close
to the stems ; and therein lies another advantage of trench-
culture, which facilitates the operation, whereas those on level

68

ground become occupants of a ridge of soil, which is somewhat
difficult to keep moist in hot weather. The earthing-up should
be done gradually, commencing when the plants have attained
adult size. Leeks are boiled as a separate vegetable dish, and
are also added to stews and soups. They boil to a marrow-like
condition, and possess an excellent, mild flavour.

Exhibition specimens will require a very liberal treatment
and careful manipulation to bring them up to show standard,
most of which will depend on the skill of the cultivator ; but
I give here a recipe which I have found in a very old book, and
which may give good results. I have never had occasion to
try it : "To grow large Leeks, take the young plants, clip
short their roots, and cut off the top of the leaves about a third
of their length. Make holes in the ground with a dibble six
inches apart, eight inches between each row, and drop a plant
into each hole without filling in the soil, and water at once.
Sufficient soil will be carried down by the water to settle around
and fix the roots. Water freely during summer, and give them
a liberal supply of liquid manure. Hoe occasionally, and
shorten the leaves several times. Gradually and by degrees
draw soil round them for purposes of blanching."

All varieties have sprung from the common" wildling Leek,
so beloved of Welshmen, and great strides in improvement were
made in the Musselboro' and Broad Flag kinds ; but Mr. Lyon
has perpetuated a splendid Leek in The Lyon.

CARDOON (Cynara cardunculus). — The Cardoon, a European
vegetable of great merit, is not grown in English gardens to a
large extent ; in fact, few gardeners appear to know it or its
uses. It is allied to the Artichoke, and ranks with that vegetable
as a delicacy. Its appearance is decidedly handsome, with
four- to six-foot whitish stems, and large grey-green pinnate
leaves, and the whole plant looks like a gigantic specimen of
Celery. The blanched stalks and ribs of the inner leaves are
used as a winter vegetable, as well as the root, which, like that
of Celery, is very thick, and of pleasing flavour. The stalks
and root are boiled, carefully, until tender, and served with
sauce that is not too highly seasoned.

Cardoon culture resembles that extended to Celery. Seeds
may be grown either in March or May. In the first case, heat
is necessary to raise the young plants, the seed being sown in
pots or upon a hotbed ; this procedure being in order to secure
an early winter supply. Where early maturity is not essential,

VEGETABLES IN TRENCHES 69

sowings should be made in May or June, in trenches, a few seeds
being dropped at three feet intervals, slightly covered with
earth and, if possible, shaded until germination takes place.
The trenches should be dug out of good soil, in an open situa-
tion, two feet wide, and eighteen inches deep. The soil at the
bottom of the trench should be deeply dug, at the same time
incorporating therewith a thick layer of well-rotted manure.
When the seedlings appear, all but the strongest one in each
group should be removed, thereafter keeping the trench well
watered until September, when growth will be almost com-
pleted. Of course, those sown earlier in heat, and planted out,
will mature long before September. When commencing to
earth the plants up for blanching — which operation should be
done on a fine day and when the soil is dry — the leaves should
be carefully brought together to an upright position, and tied
with pieces of matting. Haybands, matting, or similar material
must be provided, one end placed around the base of the plants,
and the band wound upwards around the stems until only the
tops of the foliage are seen ; thus the plant is fully protected
from contact with the soil, which is now drawn carefully towards
the stems, first breaking up the ground as finely as possible.
The ridge thus formed is beaten with the back of the spade
to make it firm. Four to six weeks elapse ere the stalks are
blanched. Cardoons will not stand frost. The plants may be
lifted and stored in dry cellars amidst sand, or litter may be
placed along and over the ridges as a protection. Lifting is
to be preferred, however, as the stems are liable to rot in wet
weather.

SECTION VI

THE CABBAGE FAMILY

THE group of vegetables coming under the designation
of " Cabbages " or " Brassicas " are of the utmost
importance, for they comprise some of the most healthful
adjuncts of the dinner- table in the vegetable world. What
our modern communities would do without " Greenstuffs " is
too terrible to contemplate ! They are, justly, the most popular
vegetables we have, next to Potatoes, probably the most widely
grown, and are consumed in ever-increasing quantities. Very
tew gardens are there in which vegetable culture is attempted
that do not contain Greenstuffs in one shape or another. Perhaps
the ease of culture, too, has much to do with this fact ; for it
is easy to grow Cabbages — indeed, they grow wild and unfettered
along our seashores, with little else but salt sand to provide
them with nourishment ; thus suggesting at once the ability
of the Cabbage to flourish on the poorest of soils. Well, that
may be so — if a mass of green leaves, coarse and fibrous, are
wanted ; but when it comes to the production of choice, compact
heads, of good flavour and marrow-like consistency when
cooked, there is created ample scope for the careful cultivator.
I fail to regard the large Cabbage as a boon, except for the use
of poultry or cattle, or to emphasize one's cultural skill upon
the exhibition-table. Fair-sized to small specimens, well
grown, with solid, white hearts and few outer leaves, provide
a delicious vegetable dish when properly cooked ; and these
are the varieties to be sought after before all others. However,
tastes differ ; and so do methods of cultivation ; and cultiva-
tion, of course^ is the key to both good and indifferent produce.
Besides the numerous varieties and strains of the Cabbage
proper, with the Savoy Cabbage, the family includes the Cauli-
flower, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kales, Coleworts, Kohl-rabi,

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 71

Turnips, etc. ; and there are also novelties in the Chinese and
Portugal Cabbages — all of which have their peculiarities of
culture — small, perhaps, but important — which the gardener
will do well to note and act upon. Stable manure is undoubtedly
the best to use for Greenstuffs ; and this may be supplemented
by nitrate of soda in the case of Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, etc. ;
while kainit, used jointly with superphosphate, is excellent 'for
Cauliflowers and Broccoli.

CABBAGES (Brassica oleracea). — I think the best and most
popular type is the " Spring Cabbage." Coming in season at
a time when there is quite a dearth of new vegetables, and we
are tired of the long-stored, played-out specimens then available,
the sweet little " Spring Cabbage " always finds its way into
our affections. That Cabbages demand, and well repay,
solicitous care and good culture is a good reason why the
gardener should put his whole energies into this department
of gardening, even to the sacrifice and exclusion of other favourite
subjects. Seeds of a good strain, of a kind without a great
tendency to run to seed, should be secured and sown very thinly
at intervals during July and August, on a bed of fine, rich soil,
made moderately compact by gentle pressure after the seed is
sown. Every encouragement should be given to the resultant
seedlings to "make rapid growth with sturdy habit ; and this
will be secured, first, by seeing that the plants do not suffer
from lack of water, and, secondly, by a vigorous thinning-out —
the withdrawn seedlings may be replanted elsewhere as surplus
stock. The aim must always be to secure what is termed a
" stocky " plant ; weak, drawn, or defective specimens are
to be removed and destroyed, for they are quite useless for any
purpose, except to grow as greenstuff for poultry, and it is an
utter impossibility for them to negotiate a severe winter.

The young plants ought not to remain too long in the seed-
bed. As soon as their size permits, they should be transplanted
into a nursery-bed of good, compact soil. While the plants
are gaining strength in this second bed, their permanent loca-
tion may be considered and prepared. The selection of the
site is an easy matter, for at the time in question — September-
October — there is so much vacant ground that has carried
crops — now safely gathered. Soil from which root-crops have
just been removed is very suitable, because, for one thing, it
is certain to be well dug, and, for another, the manure required
for the Cabbages will renovate the top-spit, which will probably

72 VEGECtLTURE

now be quite exhausted, seeing that no manure was applied in
the spring on account of its utilization for root-crops. When the
surface soil has been thoroughly well manured, and dug, the
ground may be considered, with the exception of one thing,
to be in a fit condition to receive the young Cabbage plants.
This one matter — the consolidation of the soil — affects the
success of the whole operation. When the lifting power of
frost, the destructive force of strong winds, and the disintegrat-
ing effect on the soil of heavy rains are taken into consideration,
it becomes apparent that a strong foothold is most imperative
to any plant that has to undergo wintry conditions ; and the
only way to secure this is by planting in ground that has been
very much consolidated — for Cabbages, .indeed, the earth should
be rammed so hard that only an instrument on the lines of a
crowbar will make a hole of suitable size for the reception of
the roots ! The harder the surface is, in fact, the sturdier will
the plants become, with short, woody stems that are certain
to defy the severest frosts. These are the plants that will
delight the gardener early in the following spring, for as soon
as a rise of temperature begins to make itself felt, the Cabbages
will quickly respond to the congenial influences of a warmer
atmosphere acting upon a winter-bound soil, with the result
that, very soon, presentable little heads of Cabbage, will be
ready for the cook. To aid such an event, let the gardener
give all the assistance in his power to his plants, by cultivation
especially, when the state of the ground permits: opening up
the hard soil to the beneficent action of sun and air, by forking
between the rows, hoeing around the plants in their immediate
vicinity — especially after an occasional light application of
nitrate of soda ; these, and other little attentions, will be appre-
ciated by the plants, and will be productive of good results.

So far as the generality of Cabbages are concerned, the pro-
cedure is not so exacting, although similar, consisting chiefly
in sowing seeds of varieties calculated to mature at the period
they will be required, allowing plenty of room to each seedling
plant, keeping the seed-beds moist, transplanting, and, finally,
planting out. One of the most prolific causes of partial or utter
failure in Cabbage culture is the use of overgrown or deformed
plants, the results of lack of growing space allotted to seedlings ;
therefore, the beds should be thinned early and drastically,
the plants withdrawn therefrom being replanted elsewhere to
provide stop-gaps, to replace failures, and perhaps to make a
few additional rows. Never throw away a really good plant

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 73

if it can be used in any way, but ruthlessly destroy all indifferent
specimens.

A profitable way of growing Cabbages is to select a couple of
varieties — one that matures slowly, and of large size ; the other
small and quick-growing. The larger kind should be finally
planted quite three feet apart in the rows, and in the inter-
mediate space one— even two — of the small sort may be planted.
The latter, if pushed along by good culture, will be ready for
the cook by the time their larger confreres begin to require
considerable space for development, and can be removed bodily
to afford this additional room. (It is well to point out here
that such a system of growth would apply equally well to the
early and late sections of Cauliflowers and Broccoli.)

One other profitable item should not be overlooked. When
cutting heads of Cabbage, and the ground occupied by the
plants not being required for other immediate use, the cut
should be made close to the head, so as to leave the stalk and
outer leaves intact. Now cut the leaves back to within an
inch of the stem, and allow these stumps to remain in the soil.
In a week or two, a quantity of young shoots will be observed
sprouting from the stem ; these will grow rapidly, and in a
short time the gardener will find himself possessed of a fine
crop of tender sprouts of most excellent cooking qualities.
This system is best practised upon the Cabbages cut in the
autumn and early winter ; and the value of successive crops
of Greenstuff — (for, mark you, the stems will sprout again a
second or third time until exhausted !) — during winter-time and
early in the year is incalculable and very important, and really
wonderful, considering the humble means by which they are
produced !

The variations in Cabbages are very numerous, and widely
adapted for all seasons of the year. Generally speaking, as
with most vegetables, the small-sized sorts are usually the
earliest in growth, sweetest, and most tender, and may be
grown close together, thus making up in quantity — and quality —
what they lack in size. The large sorts are used for main crops.
There are also varieties which will not readily " bolt/' and run
to seed, and are most suitable for autumn sowing. It may
be here remarked that Cabbage seed should not be sown too
early at the end of summer for standing through the winter, as
this is the cause of " bolting."

THE RED CABBAGE is a kind grown principally for pickling.

74 VEGECtTLTURE

The culture and general treatment is the same as for the green
varieties.

THE SAVOY CABBAGE. — This is a fine hardy, accommodating,
wrinkled Cabbage, requiring the usual treatment, and may be
grown for successional crops. The smaller and earlier kinds
include the " Gem " class (nearly all nurserymen have a
"Gem"!), whilst the large Savoys are well represented by
the Drumhead sorts, and Norwegian (of medium size and
extremely hardy). The Savoy is noted for its beautiful white
hearts, and excellent cooking qualities.

COLEWORTS. — Cabbages of a sprouting nature, forming
rosettes of leaves, enclosing a heart — each rosette, indeed, a
miniature Cabbage. An excellent winter vegetable, to be sown
in March, and to be given the usual Cabbage culture.

THE PORTUGAL CABBAGE (CouvE TRONCHUDA) (Brassica
oleracea costata). — This Cabbage is a very useful and delicate
kind, requiring the same treatment as the other Cabbages.
It is ready for use from November onwards, and is improved
by a little frost. The heart is equal to that of a Cauliflower in
tenderness and rich, delicate flavour ; and the stalks of the
leaves may be used after the manner of Seakalc, for which it
will be found an excellent substitute.

"PAK-CHOI" and " PE-TSAI " (Brassica sinensis).—
Pah-Choi and Pe-Tsai are not characters in a Chinese romance,
neither have they any geographical significance ; they are
simply Celestial Cabbages ! But they are none the less interest-
ing to those gardeners on the lookout for new and choice vege-
tables ; and, like most things Chinese, they are quite unlike
the English idea of a Cabbage, either in appearance or taste,
favouring a Lettuce rather than a Cabbage. But the flavour
is unique and extremely delicate, and a great change from our
own coarser greenstuff.

Pak-Choi resembles Spinach Beet in growth, and is not
unlike it in taste. The green leaves are two feet long and the
stalks pure, glistening white, which gives the plant an orna-
mental value. The whole plant may be boiled as Cabbages
usually are, or the stalks may be separated, and sent to the
table as Asparagus. This Chinese vegetable is very hardy.

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 75

Seeds may be sown either in spring or late summer ; but the
spring sowing often proves abortive, owing to the habit of
quickly running to seed. The best time to sow is the end of
July or beginning of August. This ensures an early and mid-
winter crop. Sow in moist drills, and thin out the seedlings
well.

Pe-Tsai is not nearly so hardy a subject, and seeds must be
sown in early autumn and winter. This is really a salad Cab-
bage, as it is eaten raw as well as boiled. In appearance it
favours the Cos Lettuce. The heads are, moreover, very com-
pact and firm, and the pale green leaves are prettily crimped
and wrinkled. The whole plant makes a good salad ingredient,
and when boiled, and seasoned with butter, etc., it is one of
the most excellent salad-vegetables it is possible to obtain.

Both Cabbages are of most easy culture, and are very quick
growers. Anyone giving them a trial will discover serious
rivals to the English Cabbages, Lettuces, or Spinach ; for these
Eastern plants really combine the characteristics of the three
Western vegetables. I notice that Messrs. Ryder, of St. Alban's,
offer seeds of Pe-Tsai, but I do not know whether seeds can be
obtained from any other English firm ; they are usually stocked
by Parisian seedsmen (the vegetables are used a good deal in
Paris), and probably by many other Continental firms also.

CHOU DE BURGHLEY.— A most interesting little vegetable
is this cross between a Cabbage and a Broccoli ! It first forms
a Cabbage head, and subsequently a small " flower " appears
therein ; its use either in the Cabbage or Broccoli state becomes
possible, although the latter is the best. The seeds are sown
outdoors in May ; or, if an early supply is needed, a sowing
under glass in March becomes necessary. This plant is valuable
as an early spring vegetable, this resulting from the May sowing ;
while if an autumn supply is desired the seeds sown in March
in warmer quarters will provide it. The culture, otherwise,
resembles that given to ordinary Cabbages or Broccoli.

BORECOLE or KALE (Brassica oleracea accphala]. — Excellent
winter vegetables are the Kales, with an ornamental value of
high merit attached, which trait has been beautifully developed
in late years. There are many varieties, with foliage of many
hues and forms. Some of them, if compared with other Cab-
bages, >are rather coarse and indifferently flavoured ; but a
wise choice of good varieties will provide greens of excellent

76 VEGECULTURE

quality throughout the winter months. The usual procedure
governing the culture of Cabbages is observed. Some useful
sorts include the old-fashioned Ragged Jack and Cottager S
Kale, and Thousand Headed; the Scotch Kales, the Hearting
Kales ; Moss Curled, Drumhead, Asparagus, Bndat and others ;
while the Variegated Kales have been brought to a pitch of
handsome usefulness not generally known and recognized —
white, purple, blue, red, yellow, and every shade of green lending
their assistance to complete a glorious picture of vegetable
dccorativeness.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— Brussels Sprouts require a long
period of growth, good soil, and plenty of room for development.
This vegetable is a variety of Cabbage which has acquired an
abnormally long stem, covered with compact, crimped, miniature
Cabbage heads of fine flavour. These "sprouts" are exceed-
ingly firm, and will prove a very tender and sweet vegetable when
properly cooked. There is a tendency to-day toward the
production of large sprouts ; but there is little that is desirable
in this fashion, for a moderately sized " button " is far more
compact and of better flavour than a large specimen which has
burst open. If large heads can, by good culture, be secured,
free from coarseness and a tendency to split, so much the better ;
but there is considerable risk of failure. The stem terminates
in a small but useful head, which can be gathered and used as a
separate vegetable.

In order to have a matured crop by October, early seed-
sowing must take place — in March at the latest ; while later
successional crops may be secured by sowings from April to
early June. The procedure of seed-sowing and plant-raising
coincides with that of Cabbages generally ; and a well-drained
rich soil, not freshly or highly manured, should be ready for the
accommodation of the plants when sufficiently developed, and
a distance from plant to plant of from two to three feet allowed.
Compact soil is necessary, and the retention of a ball of soil at
the roots when transplanting is a decided advantage. Liquid
manure during growth may be applied, but caution is to be
observed, as over-feeding ruins the plants. A very early batch
of sprouts may be obtained by sowing seeds in gentle heat in
January, and planting the resulting seedlings in their permanent
stations in March or April, first hardening the plants by gradually
inuring them to open-air conditions beforehand. In gathering,
a sharp knife should be used to cut off the sprouts, for spurs

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 77

left upon the stem will probably result in a second crop of
sprouts. Frost does not harm Brussels Sprouts.

There are a number of varieties, old and new, with many
selected stocks to be recommended to those who wish to exhibit.
In the latter case, the degree of success is determined principally
by careful, watchful culture, an intelligent conception of the
style of exhibit required, and good staging.

CAULIFLOWERS and BROCCOLI (Brassica oleracea botrytis).
— The " flower " of these plants is simply the result of natural
efforts at reproduction — the ultimate formation of seed. The
process, however, is a slow one, and requires warm weather to
complete it, which fact is really the raison d'etre of this class
of vegetable. Under the cooler weather conditions, that obtain
in spring and early summer, Cauliflowers and Broccoli develop
a close, compact head of embryo flowers, very small at first, but
steadily increasing, until a good-sized mass of succulent growth
is formed. This peculiarity has been taken advantage of by
cultivators, who, by continual selection and re-selection, have
succeeded in developing this trait of the Cauliflower and the
Broccoli to the extent that we now see in the very large heads
obtainable in our gardens.

CAULIFLOWERS may be roughly divided into three sections —
early, mid-season, and late — each division signifying the
approximate period of maturity ; but the deciding factors are
the time and manner of seed-sowing and subsequent good
growth. The earlier in the year seeds are sown, the better
are the chances of an early crop ; and this early sowing brings
glass into indispensable use. Boxes are probably the best
receptacles for the seed-bed. These should be partly filled
with a rich compost, upon which will rest an inch or so of fairly
fine sandy soil wherein the seeds are sown — very thinly— and
the surface pressed down lightly and compactly. Presuming
that the soil has been thoroughly moistened, and a sheet of
glass placed over the box, there should be no necessity for
further moisture until the seeds have sprouted. The time
occupied in germination depends on the temperature of the
house or frame, but in any case it is not at all long. There is
really very little trouble in raising Cauliflower seeds, which may
be sown in frames in the autumn or late spring, and in a heated
structure from December to March ; it is in the subsequent
development of the seedlings that difficulty and danger of

78 VEGECULTURE

failure is likely to be experienced. From the time that the
first seed-leaves push through the soil the young plants require
careful, watchful attention. If kept too far from the glass
they will become " drawn " and useless ; if moisture is withheld,
or the sun becomes powerful, they will die ; and in an atmosphere
of too high a temperature they make rank growth and become
too weak for future practical use.

The best procedure is to germinate the seeds in a temperature
of about fifty degrees, and allow the plants to remain therein
until they are well above the soil and have begun to show the
first true leaves. Then the boxes should be transferred to
cooler conditions — a " cold " house wherein thirty to forty
degrees can be maintained, for instance. Here the plants will
make steady, stocky, sturdy growth. When about an inch or
so of growth has been attained to, each plant should be potted
into a " thimble " or " thumb " pot — and it will be found to be
worth the trouble — to grow on. If these small pots become
full of roots before planting-out time arrives, a shift into a
larger size will greatly benefit the plants.

The foregoing process will appeal to those who desire to
produce a few really good heads of Cauliflower for home con-
sumption ; where plants on a larger scale are required, trans-
planting into boxes, or several plants in one large pot, will be
more convenient ; but, nevertheless, the fact remains that, if
a large Cauliflower of good quality is wanted, nothing tends to
produce such an article as " potting-up " surely will. We
take this same trouble over our bedding-plants and greenhouse
subjects — why not go the full lengths where the more useful
vegetable is concerned ?

Again, with an eye to the few, in opposition to the many,
extra large heads— either for consumption or exhibition — may
be obtained by digging for each individual plant a hole about
fifteen inches wide and of similar depth, filling three parts of
this cavity with a soil composed of such ingredients as well-
rotted cow or other manure, leaf-soil, loam, old hot-bed soil—
or a rich ordinary garden soil, mixed with cow manure, will give
good results. Put each plant — selecting an exceptionally
healthy specimen — into the centre of the prepared station.
As it grows, good soil may be added and drawn up close to the
stems of the Cauliflower, keeping the site well moist and free
from weeds. Of course the ground must have been previously
deeply dug or trenched. A generally open situation should be
selected for Cauliflowers, although the immediate location must

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 79

be sheltered from the effects of heavy rains, strong winds, frost,
and a scorching sun. Frequent waterings — especially manurial
— -are essential to good produce ; twice a week, at the least,
in dry weather. During showery weather, on the other hand,
a frequent sprinkling of artificial manure — kainit, for example —
in small quantities, may be placed upon the soil around the
plants and hoed in.

Cauliflower seeds, sown in August — preferably in a frame,
or in boxes in the glasshouse — will produce very large heads for
cutting early next season. The resultant seedlings must be
pricked out as soon as possible into another frame, where they
will remain all the winter, to be well protected from frost. It
must be borne in mind that all weaklings will surely succumb ;
therefore, keep the young plants in their baby stage quite close
to the glass, and encourage them to grow sturdily and strongly.
During the ensuing month of April the Cauliflowers are planted
out in a well-sheltered situation, quite two feet apart, in a rich,
well-dug soil. It will not be long ere satisfactory results in the
shape of excellent heads will be forthcoming.

The oldest and best known varieties in the earliest section
are the Early London, Early Erfurt, but as nearly every seeds-
man has listed a speciality of his own, the gardener must be
left to judge whose are the best by trial. The second early
sorts include the well-known Walcheren, which may be sown
several times during the year for successive crops ; while the
best one of those that mature very much later, and may require
protection, is Veitch's Autumn Giant, a universally popular .and
widely-grown Cauliflower, from which most of the advertised
late sorts have been derived.

BROCCOLI. — The divisions into which Broccoli are usually
formed are more pronounced in all features of growth than the
Cauliflower groups. The latter indicate little more than degrees
of maturity, whereas amongst Broccoli there are very distinct
and unalterable traits which make each section almost a separate
species ; at all events, an independent variety. For example,
there is a class of Broccoli of which seed sown in the May or June
of one year produces plants that require nearly a full year's
culture before any attempt at flower-forming is made, coming
into maturity during the May or June of the following year.
There is nothing alarming, however, in the apparent waste of
time and space which have to be devoted to the tedious
growth of the slowly-developing varieties : quite the contrary, if

80 • VEGECULTURE

intelligence is exercised in management. These usually produce
young plants ready to be put into permanent quarters just
about the time when ground becomes vacant here and there by
reason of lifting early crops ; and a row or two of such plants
on these vacant spots give that continuity of cropping which is
so desirable and profitable on ground that is kept in good con-
dition—at any rate, where limited space obtains. A light or
medium crop therefore — such as first-early Potatoes and other
early-maturing vegetables and salads — should precede the
Broccoli, and a thorough digging and manuring given when
these are cleared and before planting of the Broccoli is done.
Next season, when the matured Broccoli heads have been
gathered, light crops to mature in autumn and early winter may
be put on the same ground, after another digging and light
manuring, which procedure will enable the soil, after these
light crops have carried, to obtain a restful recuperation ail
through the following winter, with, if desirable, further trenching,
ridging, and manuring, thus getting the ground ready for the
carrying of spring-sown main-crops. In this way the plot
devoted to the long-standing Broccoli may be managed so as
not to lose what would practically amount to one year's crop-
ping out of two ; for it will be seen that the time taken by the
Broccoli to develop maturity comprises at least two sowing
seasons of main-crop subjects — i.e., no main-crop seeds can be
sown in the spring preceding the planting of Broccoli in May or
June ; the ground is still in occupation of the Broccoli when
next spring's sowing-time arrives ; and the ground must there-
after lie vacant until the advent of the third spring. This, I
believe, prevents and prohibits the utilization of slow-growing
Broccoli in many a garden that could well produce this splendid
and " easy " vegetable ; and I have tried to show how the
difficulty may advantageously and profitably be overcome by
the adoption of a judicious system of catch-crops.

There are other varieties which demand the usual " growing "
season — spring to autumn — only, and present no difficulty
beyond good culture ; but, speaking from experience and
personal preference, the long-standing Broccoli beats its more
amenable brethren in quality.

The divisions of Broccoli comprise (i) those varieties which
mature during the months of September to December ; the
seeds of these (such as Walcheren, Veitch's Self -protect ing] are
sown in the previous March and April. (2) The varieties which
continue the supply by maturing from January up to the end of

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 81

April, and are sown the previous April or May : Leamington,
Knight's Protecting, etc. (3) Those which follow the above
by becoming ready to cut in April, May and June, the seeds
being sown in April and May the previous year : Barr's May
Queen, Cattell's Eclipse, and many others.

It will be noted that a continuous succession of delicious
Broccoli heads may be secured from September to the following
July by sowing seeds during the previous March, April and
May ; for example, seeds sown in the spring of 1917 will produce
plants available for use by September, 1917, to the end of that
year, right on into 1918, ending in June of that year ; at which
period the early Cauliflowers will be ready to fill the gap until
the autumn months ! No gardener, therefore, need be without
Cauliflowers or Broccoli at any time of the year !

In addition to the foregoing, there are varieties of Broccoli
which produce small heads of flowers in great profusion in the
manner of sprouts. These are called Sprouting Broccoli.
There are two kinds — Purple and White, with late and early
strains. There is no vegetable more welcome, economical or
palatable than these Broccoli ; their yield is remarkable. Seeds
must be sown (out of doors only) — during March and April,
and the plants treated like ordinary Cabbages, etc.

KOHL-RABI ( Brassica caula-rapa) . — This is a novelty among
the Cabbages, partaking of the double nature of Turnip and
Cabbage. The stem above ground swells to a large size, forming
a bulb of splendid cooking qualities, and possessing a pleasing
flavour midway between the Cabbage and Turnip, or a better
description would be a combination of both vegetables. The
leaves are used as Greens. Kohl-rabi requires the culture usually
extended to the Cabbage Family, and is very accommodating
and easy to manage. A good soil should be provided, and the
plants kept free from weeds by the use of the hoe. The space
between the plants need not be great — from twelve to sixteen
inches, according to variety. As a rule, only the smaller kinds
are selected for garden use, the larger ones being of more utility
for cattle-feeding and of less delicate flavour. These vegetables
should be cut before they are fully grown, when, if deeply peeled
and boiled carefully, a delicious and appetizing dish of vegetables
will be forthcoming. There are two divisions of Kohl-rabi,
early and late. Early Green Erfurt is one of the best varieties
to experiment with.

82 VEGECULTURE

BLACK ROT OF CABBAGE (Pseudomonas campestris). — This
disease is of bacterial origin, causing the plant to rot and form
a pulpy, foetid-smelling mass. It attacks Cabbages, Cauli-
flowers, Brussels Sprouts, Turnips, and other members of the
Cabbage Family. The lower leaves are affected first, and is
confined to the veins, whence the disease passes into the leaf
stalk, thence into the stem and into the stalks of other leaves,
and in a short time every leaf is infected, which become dark
brown or black, and the whole plant collapses. Affected plants
should be removed and burned, and must not be thrown on
the rubbish heap, otherwise the disease may be transferred to
the land again. Seed may be disinfected before sowing by
soaking it for a quarter of an hour in a solution of one part of
corrosive sublimate in 1,000 parts of water, or in a solution of
formalin, one ounce in about two gallons of water.

TURNIPS (Brassica napus). — The Turnip needs no descrip-
tion. It has been in cultivation from a very early period, and
there are numerous forms, shapes, and colours to be found
amongst its varieties, and sorts suitable for sowing at all portions
of the year are to be obtained. Only good ground, well-manured
and prepared, will grow Turnips to perfection — tender, sweet,
and of good shape and size ; and a good variety chosen from
the class likely to prove amenable to the soil available is another
source of successful cropping. At the same time, a soil too
rich in decayed vegetable matter or fresh manure will tend to
the production of coarse, badly-flavoured roots. The ideal soil is
a fairly rich, friable, sandy loam. Stiff, cold, retentive soils
are most difficult to deal with, and if a fine, rich, friable surface
is not created for the seed-bed, the results are certain to be
poor. Given a fair start, and a favourable growing season,
Turnips will often give a good account of themselves on
indifferent soils. A genial site for a row of Turnips in the
summer months is between two rows of tall Peas, Climbing
French Beans, Broad Beans, or other vegetables that provide
shade ; such a place will conserve moisture and protection from
hot sunshine so necessary to the Turnip.

Turnips are really best treated as catch-crops — to be sown
and grown during the interval separating one main crop from
another ; and several successive batches may be secured during
the year. If seeds are sown early — say February or March,
and again in April and May, or June — a supply will be obtained
all the summer and early autumn ; whilst a sowing made in

THE CABBAGE FAMILY 83

July, and another in August, will provide a sufficiency for
winter and spring use.

The variety for early and successional use is undoubtedly
the well-known " Six- weeks " type of Turnip — Early Snowball,
Early White, Early Green-top, Early Milan, Early Munich,
etc. — which will provide small, well-shaped, crisp and sweet
roots of mild flavour and excellent cooking qualities. These
varieties, be it remembered, must be grown quickly, and not
retarded in any way, to secure satisfactory results. Orange
Jelly, Golden Ball, and other yellow-fleshed kinds are the most
useful for midsummer sowings ; whilst Chirk Castle, Green-top
Stone, and Red-top Stone are best for later sowing. Those
gardeners possessing a deep soil should try the tap-rooted
varieties of Turnip, which are both novel and excellent ; Jersey
Navet and Long White Horn are the two best of this kind.

Points to remember concerning Turnip culture are : (i) A
moist, friable seed-bed, with drills containing burnt rubbish,
ashes, soot, guano, bone-meal, or superphosphate — a light
sprinkling of one of the last three will be sufficient ; (2) a shady
spot in summer, and open, rich ground in winter ; (3) quick
growth, aided by cultivation with the hoe ; and (4) severe
thinning out of seedlings. Superphosphate is the very best
artificial manure, and light dustings of this may be given occa-
sionally with good results.

Turnip " tops " are the sprouts from old roots left in the
ground, which start into growth in early spring, and the young
tops— the thinnings of seed-beds — may be used for the same
purpose ; besides which the shoots may be blanched in damp
heat, and eaten as a substitute for Asparagus.

The Turnip-flea is probably the worst pest that troubles
this vegetable, and applications of lime or soot may be given
to prevent its attacks ; and if all weeds of the Cabbage Family
(such as Charlock) are carefully eliminated from the neigh-
bourhood of the Turnips, much good will accrue, for they are
usually the objects of attack by the same insect pests that prey
upon the Turnips, and their removal constitutes a safeguard.

SWEDISH TURNIPS. — These vegetables are really Turnip-
rooted Cabbages, and differ considerably from the true Turnip —
the latter deriving its origin from the Rape. " Swedes," as
they are termed, are of much better flavour than the Turnip
proper. Those usually grown in gardens possess yellow flesh,
which becomes marrow-like and of sweet flavour when boiled.

84 VEGECULTURE

They are best used just before they are fully grown. All the
varieties like a stiff, moist soil, such as a clayey loam, and grow
best in moist districts, although they accommodate themselves
to drier situations. Seeds are sown in May and June, in drills,
and the seedlings are thinned out to quite a foot apart. No
other attention is necessary after this, except the use of the
hoe, and applications of water and liquid manure during hot
weather, from which Swedes greatly suffer. A rich soil should
be allotted to these fine Turnips, as they pay for good culture.
Those roots that are not required for immediate consumption
should be lifted and stored ; but the plants are extremely
hardy, and frost does not affect them during growth.

One of the finest attributes of these Turnips is portrayed
when the bulb is perhaps in its worst condition — when it begins
to sprout afresh in the clamp or store ; for these sprouts form
one of the most delicious vegetables that can be desired. To
secure an occasional supply during winter and spring, a few
roots should be selected — especially those showing signs of
sprouting — placed in a warm, moist situation, and covered
with sand, ashes, etc. Suitable places for these are near the
hot-water pipes of a glasshouse, under the greenhouse stage.

SECTION VII

THE ONION TRIBE

ONIONS (Allium cepa).—The Onion speaks for itself!
Its aggressiveness is often both painful and objection-
able— to all but the consumer ! Hence a mighty
prejudice is observable in many quarters against this most
healthfully cleansing of all vegetables. While patent reasons
for objection undoubtedly exist, injustice falls to the lot of
the Onion, for it is robbed of its rightful place in the forefront
of the vegetable world, and its beneficent operations are
slighted, underrated, and refused full recognition. Yet the
fact remains, despite contumely and contempt, that the Onion
is indispensable ; its value inestimable, in culinary, sanitary,
and medicinal uses. . Besides, its palatable attributes are great,
for many a savoury dish or richly-flavoured, appetizing con-
coction would cease to justify that description were the Onion —
probably cleverly and artfully hidden or disguised! — eliminated
therefrom. On this latter score alone, there is ample basis
for the argument that the Onion — in some shape or form —
should be well represented — even given the lion's share, perhaps
— in every garden, large or small.

" Can I grow Onions in my garden ? " has been the query
put to me on various occasions ; and in every case the answer,
accompanied by obviously necessary explanation, has been,
' Yes, and No"\ This contradictory response is set right
by pointing out that one favourite way of producing Onions
in difficult situations is to procure or save all those Onions
which show signs of decay and particularly a tendency to sprout ;
these, planted in any moist spot at almost any time of year
will strike root, begin to grow, and in a very short time ulti-
mately form several divisions apiece, about the size of the
average " Spring Onion " so popular during the salad season.
These facts enable me to say emphatically " Yes " to the query

•85

86 VEGECULTURE

I have mentioned, even where conditions appear to be pro-
hibitive and hopeless ; and yet again there is the sowing of seed
to produce salad or " Spring " Onions, which may be practised
in otherwise unfavourable circumstances. In fact, the growing
of immature salad Onions is of the easiest description, and may
be confidently undertaken by the most adversely-circumstanced
gardener, provided he bestows attention upon the maintenance
of a congenial soil (a loose, moist medium is the best for this
purpose) in which the plants may make quick progress — an
essential to the creation of mild and tender qualities. One
may say, too, that the method of planting old sprouting Onions
cannot be surpassed in the effort to produce a mild and succulent
salad or flavouring Onion, the resultant " scallions," as the
divisions are called, being all that could be desired in this
direction. The sets may be planted anywhere, close together,
and should be kept well moist ; while seeds of the salad varieties
—White Lisbon, White Spanish, etc. — may be sown fairly
thickly between rows of long-standing vegetables, and can be
gathered for use from the time they attain three or four inches
in height. Both methods produce usable specimens in a month
or six weeks under the most favourable conditions, and in any
case the period of waiting for results is very short. Taking
these facts into consideration, the question is evolved : Why
are not salad Onions grown in every garden ; or at least to many
times the extent of the usual practice ?

But there is the more serious and exacting side to Onion
culture — the production of sound, useful bulbs for household
purposes ; and it is to this side of the question that the answer
" No " often emphatically applies.

First of all, a modification occurs in the case of the small
pickling Onion. These can be grown on the poorest of soil,
and as size is not a consideration, seed ma3' be thickly sown, and
the resulting plants left much to themselves, beyond an occa-
sional weeding.

Where a really first-class Onion for culinary or other house-
hold purposes is required, however, strenuous cultivation is
decidedly imperative. This style of Onion does not necessarily
imply great dimensions. I fail to see the domestic utility of
an enormous bulb, which cannot possibly be all used at the
one cooking operation, and is, moreover, of a flabby constitu-
tion. A large Onion is excellent for show purposes, but very
inconvenient to the cook. It is preferable, therefore, to aim at
a reasonable size combined with sound keeping qualities and

THE ONION TRIBE 87

tender flesh that will yield good results in cookery. I am
informed by many people that the average Spanish Onion,
so familiar to all, may be regarded as a good example of the
requirements of the kitchen — specimens, for instance, scaling
three or four to the pound. If growers will aim at, and obtain,
a crop of Onions ranging around this standard size and quality,
there should result every satisfaction ; only the desire for
sensationalism would demand anything further. Indeed, the
production of such Onions is no small undertaking ! And we
will proceed to discuss ways and means of doing so. The first
great essential of the Onion is a well-worked, rich, very deep
soil in which to send its long roots ; and it is astonishing how
long these roots are, and how far down they penetrate. And,
moreover, the deeper the soil, the greater will certainly be the
depth of penetration.

It will be noticed that Onions are partial to a firm soil ; that
is true ; but a firmness that destroys or prohibits liberty of
action of both roots and atmosphere and the rapid filtration
of water is disastrous, and should be guarded against by an
intelligent study and appreciation of the true definition of a
" firm " soil. One may put it as a direct opposite to a loose,
crumbling, dry medium — a soil which retains little moisture,
and offers no substantial support to a vigorous, root-action ;
a soil composed principally of sand particles, or almost pure
chalk, or extremely dusty in dry weather. This is a soil un-
suited to Onion-growing, if left to itself ; but it can be used
beneficially by means of the consolidation of these loose elements.
And this, let it be noted, is not accomplished by merely treading
or pressing the surface of the soil into an evenly smooth condi-
tion ; the whole soil requires mechanical consolidation by the
application of manure and retentive materials, which is com-
pleted by the pressure upon the surface from above. Many
people make this mistake, and fail to secure compactness in
the lighter kind of soils, with the result that, should the top
inch of soil be disturbed by weeding or hoeing, it is found that
the Onion plants have a very poor loosely-lying under-soil to
root in, and are readily pulled from the ground ; whereas, in a
more favourable soil it is a difficult matter to remove bodily an
established Onion plant without breakage. Consolidate light
soils, then, through and through. That is a safe maxim in
Onion culture. Heavy soils, on the contrary, must receive less
drastic treatment, for they are already compact ; even some
of the medium soils need not be too forcibly compressed. I

88 VEGECULTURE

point out these facts because there is so much danger in the
general advice one constantly sees concerning the preparation
of the Onion-bed — to " make the soil compact by treading
or beating down with a spade or board," etc. That is not
applicable, or effective, in all cases. A passing note may be
made of the fact that there is considerable difference between
consolidating the bulk of the earth and pressing the soil gently
upon newly-sown seeds, or making the surface firm and level
for the reception of transplanted seedlings. The latter two are
matters concerning the state of the surface of the ground at
the time of the operations, and are referred to under the heading
of " Seed-sowing " (see pages 21-23).

It will be seen, then, that the combination of a deeply-dug
yet compact soil is essential to the production of good Onions.
The thorough winter preparation of the Onion site by trenching,
ridging, or, at least, deep digging, effectually guards against
the adverse effects that might accrue from over-consolidation
of the ground ; for once the particles of soil are thoroughly
separated, they are likely to remain so for some time, on account
of the admitted presence of air and water, even under pressure
from above. (This can be readily proved by turning up a
light subsoil, the surface of which has been trodden down quite
hard and dry.) When this combination lias been effected, it
only remains to bring the surface into a reasonable condition
(see page 22) to create an ideal Onion-bed.

The seeds are sown, preferably in drills, one inch deep. A
deeper drill, to be partly filled with a compost as advised on
page 23, will prove useful on heavy soils. Fairly thick sowing
may be indulged in, as all thinnings may be either used in
salads or transplanted elsewhere.

SPRING SOWING. — This is carried out early in February, and
once or even twice afterwards during that month and March.
Small beds of several kinds may be tried, if desired. The young
seedling plants must be kept quite free from weeds, and imme-
diately they are large enough thinning should be performed,
choosing the weaker plants to be removed ; the distance from
plant to plant may be from four to twelve inches, according to
the size the bulbs are required to attain.

The seeds^of such varieties as Ailsa Craig and Cranston's
Excelsior may be sown in January in heat under glass, pricked
out into boxes and kept close to the glass until April, when
they are planted out one foot apart, Very large bulbs are
obtained by this means,

THE ONION TRIBE 89

AUTUMN SOWING. — Many advantages are to be derived from
the sowing of Onion seeds in the autumn instead of waiting
until spring. In the latter period of the year weather and soil
conditions are not always of the best calibre, sometimes delaying
the committal of seeds to the ground to an extent that preju-
dices the reasonable development of the crop. Greater size,
better flavour, a more abundant and heavier crop, and the
welcome provision of a large supply of "Spring" Onions all
through the winter months are the chief advantages of this
process ; while it is a well-attested fact that the maggot — a
dangerous pest indeed — never attacks autumn-sown produce.
The principles governing the autumn work are chiefly found
in proper and careful sowing, at the right time, so that the
plants may be of sufficiently adult stature to be able to with-
stand the devastating effects of frost ; therefore, the plants
of this section require a site thoroughly prepared to this end.
The seeds, if sown at the right time and under good conditions,
will produce sturdy subjects for negotiating all contingencies.
Sow any time from the middle of July to the second week
in September in moderately rich and well-pulverized soil,
in an open situation ; two or three sowings at intervals of
ten or fourteen days is the safest way to combat any vagaries
in the weather and other causes of failure. Consolidate and
level the ground, keeping the bed free from weeds and of uniform
moisture, and use the hoe whenever the surface of the soil
appears to need cultivation, or if the young plants do not
progress. There are two methods of culture, either of which
may be adopted as circumstances permit. The first is to sow
fairly thickly, and as soon as the plants are of useful size, thin
out to six inches apart in the rows ; these, under the process
of good cultivation — especially as the spring approaches — will
provide excellent bulbs of great size and good quality. But
by far the best procedure is that of transplanting. For this
purpose, seeds should be sown very thinly, so as to allow perfect
freedom of growing space for each individual plant — all those
that would hinder in this direction being removed early. The
remaining plants will stay where they are, with due and proper
attention as to weeding, etc., all the winter through. In spring,
when outdoor conditions are favourable, the plants may be
carefully lifted — without breaking roots and with soil attached,
if possible — and transplanted at least six inches apart in rows
in a bed of soil prepared as advised hitherto for Onions. Trans-
plantation will give the best of results, and is especially to be

90 VEGECULTURE

recommended, even with the thinnings of the spring sowings,
which should never be wasted if not wanted for salads. Ailsa
Craig, Cranston's Excelsior, T felons, and the Tripoli varieties
are suited to autumn work.

Onions, being what are termed " gross feeders," can accom-
modate almost any amount of strong organic manures, of any
kind. Whatever may be available in this respect should be
well incorporated with the soil, from the surface downwards to
at least two feet — even deeper, if possible. The soil can hardly
be too rich, especially if plenty of soot, wood-ashes, lime, and
burnt vegetable refuse is mixed with it, and the ground broken
up and exposed to the weather in the winter. Kainit and super-
phosphate may be dug into the soil before sowing the seeds
with good results. During growth, at intervals, soot-water
may be applied — copiously if the weather is dry — assisted by
the vigorous after-use of the hoe upon the soil. Sea-sand, also,
may be used with good effect upon heavy soils.

The richness of soil, however, constitutes the chief danger to
Onions, for it encourages attacks by the much-dreaded maggot,
which is usually the result of the application of crude manures.
This pest may be disposed of by the application of fresh slaked
lime to the ground and on the seedlings during the thinning
process — sprinkled thinly, and repeated if necessary. Another
serious cause of trouble is drought. This must be combated by
frequent waterings, with both clear and weak manure liquid,
and a mulch between the rows. Never allow the bulbs to be
covered in any way, by soil or mulching materials.

Many people seem to think that, in order to induce bulb
formation, top-growth especially must be discouraged. This
is a mistake. Growth above ground and vigorous, free root-
action are the only means of bringing about perfection in the
bulb ; hence the emphasis upon the provision of a suitable
soil. This will be more readily understood by noting that the
bulb is a reservoir of nourishment — an accumulation of food
reserve, to sustain the plant in its future labour of seed-produc-
tion. This latter is always a great strain upon the constitution
of plants, and, coming at a time when a plant like the Onion
has almost reached the end of its activities, and has probably
exhausted the soil in which it is growing, such a reserve of
nutriment contained in the bulb is very valuable ; the larger
the store, the greater the seed-production. To secure this
reserve, then, the Onion extracts from both the aboveground
and underground atmospheres all the available food ; and the

THE ONION TRIBE 91

more healthy the top-growth and the more vigorous the root-
action, the greater certainty is there of a large collection of
nutriment, with the consequent enlargement of the bulb.

But there comes a point in this procedure in which the Onion
will seriously turn its attention to the great object of its existence
— the production of seed for perpetuation ; and unless this be
stopped, the bulb will be spoilt, for all the store of richness
therein is commandeered for reproduction purposes. This
sudden perversion of food elements must be checked from
above—not below. This is usually accomplished by bending
over (not breaking!) the Onion stem about two inches from the
bulb towards the ground. But let there be no indiscriminate
action ; this drastic procedure should never be carried out where
signs of running to seed are not apparent. Retain all foliage
as long as possible — that applies always and everywhere in
plant -life. Premature destruction of the growth of foliage
invariably induces the bulb to stop growing, and to consolidate
and ripen instead.

Root-action, however, should never be checked or neglected
at any time, and certainly not during that period when the
bulb is drastically deprived of the support afforded by its
foliage.

When the necks pf the Onions begin to shrink and the root-
hold upon the ground is loosened, the bulbs have reached
maturity, and all showing these signs may be removed from the
bed, leaving the others to complete their growth ; for if the ripe
ones are allowed to remain in the ground, they may commence
fresh growth, certainly if rain intervenes, and be irremediably
spoilt. They are, after removal, spread out in the sun to dry,
turned frequently, and taken under shelter at nights. When
both foliage and roots have completely withered, the bulbs are
ready for storage in a dry place. Care must be taken not to
bruise the bulbs in any way, removing all soil, and any part
that would tend to decay. They should be disposed thinly
in the store, or hung in ropes or bunches, and carefully looked
over occasionally to remove any affected ones. To preserve a
number for very late use, a hot iron may be used to cauterize
the roots and necks, care being taken not to burn the bulb.

The maggot is the Onion's chief enemy, so far as insects are
concerned. This is very prevalent in light soils. The Onions,
when young, begin to turn yellow, as the first sign of the presence
of the maggots, the foliage droops, and the plant soon dies,
or becomes worthless, Trenching, autumn sowing, and the

92 VEGECtJLTURE

application of soot and lime are preventives, and the very careful
sprinkling of gas-lime between the rows of Onions left in the
ground for seeding will serve the same purpose, as will the
destruction of all decaying bulbs.

Onion variations are very numerous indeed. They may,
for a guide, be divided, first, into those suited to spring or
autumn sowing ; and second, globe-shaped, flat-shaped, red,
Tripoli, and silver-skinned Onions. The latter classification
principally affects personal taste or fancy ; but the first
division is most important to the general cultivation of the
Onion.

ONIOX " SETS." — These are small bulbs, about the size of
a marble. They are reared from seed of the White Spanish
variety, sown about the second week in May in a poor, dry soil.
In the event of dry weather prevailing at the time of sowing,
give a good watering to promote speedy germination, but after-
wards let the seedlings grow as they please until the tiny bulbs
are ripe, then lift, dry, and store in paper bags till spring. In
February plant the bulbs six inches apart, slightly pressing the
bulbs into the soil. For this purpose the soil must be rich and
prepared as for ordinary Onions. The bulbs will then develop
into exceptionally large ones by August.

TREE, EGYPTIAN, or CANADIAN ONION (Allium pro-
liferum}. — A species of Onion which does not possess a bulbous
root is a novelty. The Tree Onions produce numerous bulbs
on the stems, and these bulbs may be gathered, dried in a shady
place, and will keep for a long time if perfectly free from moisture.
They are mild in flavour and useful for pickling. The bulbous
offsets produced from the roots are planted either in March
and April, or September and October, but the bulbs themselves
are best planted in April ; and the old roots replanted will also
provide a crop of bulbs. It will be thus seen what a useful plant
the Tree Onion is ! Plant in rows six inches apart, in holes
two inches deep and six inches asunder. Autumn-planted sets
will start into growth the following spring, and will be ready
with a crop of bulbs in June and July. Spring-planted bulbs
appear later in vegetation, and mature their produce in July
and August. The bulbs must not be taken up until perfectly
ripe and the stalks are withered, and in dry weather. The
roots, if required for replanting, may be taken up and divided,
or they may be left undisturbed for three seasons ; after this
it is best to lift and divide the clumps, otherwise the produce

THE ONION TRIBE 98

deteriorates. The best plan of all is to make fresh plantations
yearly by moans of the root offsets.

POTATO or UNDERGROUND ONION.— These form a species
of Onion which, planted in the same manner as Shallots, produce
a number of new bulbs each season. The culture is of the
simplest nature, the results most profitable and extremely
useful where mild Onions are in demand, and it is strange that
one sees so few of these excellent members of the Onion tribe
in gardens. They ought to be universally grown, especially
in small gardens.

THE SHALLOT (ESCHALOT) (A Ilium ascalonicum) . -
Shallots demand a culture that a child of tender age could afford
with success, it is so simple ! A raised bed of fine, dry soil,
into which is worked any charred or burnt refuse, wood-ashes,
soot, flue-dust, etc., is all that is required, to start with. The
bulbs are planted singly, just pressed into the soft earth, and
then covered with ashes of any kind. After a short time, the
bulbs will root and become firri in the soil, when the ashes may
be removed, and the ground stirred gently between the rows,
eliminating all weeds. That is the only culture Shallots require.
They may be planted either in October or February, as cir-
cumstances permit, about six inches apart, in rows at intervals
of nine inches. In July they are ripe, and should be taken up,
dried in the shade, and stored. These plants are very orna-
mental, providing elegant tufts of green leaves long before
vegetation generally begins to make a show, and prove capital
subjects for edgings to beds of less attractive subjects. Their
use in cookery is of high degree, they possessing an excellent
mild flavour ; and they also make a splendid pickle.

GARLIC (Allium sativum). — This is an extremely odorous
member of the Onion Family, much used on the Continent, and
forming a prominent ingredient in many a dish. In these isles
its use is mainly confined to flavouring purposes, in pickles,
chutney, and similar preparations. The culture is precisely
the same as that advised for Shallots ; but they must not be
planted too early — say, in February— being not so hardy as
Shallots. A light, rich soil suits this bulb. It is usually
propagated by parting the roots, but the bulbs produced
on the stems may also be used for planting. If any sign of
running to seed is noted, tie the foliage in knots to prevent this

94 VEGECULTURE

development. In August dry the ripened bulbs well, and
retain part of the stalk, by which they may be suspended in
bundles until wanted for use.

CHIVES (A Ilium sch&noprasum). — A splendid and most
efficient substitute for "Spring" Onions is the Chive, or Give,
of Siberian origin, and of most easy growth. A light, rich,
moist soil is most suited to these plants, and a couple of rows
across a four-foot garden-bed will supply enough salad onions
for a large number of persons, for a considerable length of time,
for, soon after they are cut, the green leaves are succeeded by
fresh shoots. Small bulbs are formed, which are planted in
March and April, about eight inches apart. The leaves, when
gathered, must be cut close to the ground, to encourage the
production of a fresh supply ; and in autumn the bulbs, if
thought desirable, may be lifted and stored, to be used after
the manner of ordinary Onions. Seed, of course, may also be
sown, or growing clumps purchased. As a perennial edging to
the kitchen-garden they are unsurpassed.

LEEKS are treated in the section in which their peculiar
cultural necessities demand a place — that devoted to vegetable-
growing in trenches (pages 67 and 68).

THE STORAGE OF ONIONS, SHALLOTS, AND GARLIC. — The
bulbs are placed in a single layer on the floor of an airy loft,
on open lath shelves, or in portable trays, in a shed or spare room.
Darkness is not an essential. One of the best ways of storing
Onions, Shallots, and Garlic is to rope the bulbs. The Onions
must be carefully harvested, the tops being perfectly dry. A
piece of rope about three feet long is procured, and a knot tied
at one end and fixed to a nail. The rope is then split into three
strands. An Onion is laid along each string, the bulb towards
the knot, and the three plaited together, the tops of the Onions
going with their respective strings. This process is repeated
until a rope of Onions about two feet long is made. The three
strands are then tied together at the end, and the whole rope
and the Onion-tops tied with string as close as possible to the
last bulb. Thus a loop will be left by which to hang them. The
presence of the rope prevents the string of Onions from breaking,
and the bulbs can easily be detached as required for use without
disturbing the remainder.

SECTION VIII

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS

I HAVE placed several subjects in this section which answer
to the description of a vegetable-fruit, not that there is
any relationship or similarity between them from a botanical
point of view, but because, first of all, every one of them require
heat and glass protection of some sort in their initial stages of
growth ; secondly, much care is demanded on the part of the
cultivator in every phase of growth, mistakes or mismanagement
being rewarded by complete failure ; and thirdly, because they
are delicate subjects, both from a cultural and culinary point
of view, which will not accommodate themselves to the rough-
and-ready treatment that may with a measure of impunity be
given to most vegetables. No kitchen-garden, however, can
be considered complete without at least one of them. Glass is
indispensable where early and well-ripened fruits are desired ;
and some of the subjects should be given a place in a glass
structure during the whole course of their existence. So far
as raising the seedlings is concerned, although heat is neces-
sary as that operation is carried out so early in the year, yet the
means of providing heat need not be elaborate — a propagating-
box with a small lamp under ; a frame upon a slight hotbed ;
a heap of manure litter and leaves, into which pots or boxes
containing the seeds can be plunged, this being surmounted by a
larger box or framework covered with a piece or pieces of glass ;
or the greenhouse proper — these can all be utilized with profit
and success. The satisfactory development of the subsequent
growth and production of fruit depends upon the skill and
perseverance of the cultivator,

THE TOMATO (Solanum lycopersicum) . — This popular vege-
table-fruit is now an important addition to the common food-
supply of Britain, and an increasing quantity is grown each year

95

96 VEGECULTURE

to cope with the demand. A well-grown, freshly-cut Tomato,
straight from the vine, is a luxury, and that is why so many
people strive to grow Tomatoes under circumstances far from
favourable. To grow Tomato-plants, and to produce the
green fruits, is, on the whole, an easy matter, both outdoors and
in the glasshouse ; but to ripen the fruits in the absence of sun-
shine is not a light task. The best means of securing a good
percentage of ripe fruits, both under glass and out of doors
are the raising of an early batch of young plants ; rapid, sturdy
growth ; and early fruit-setting ; these things, indeed, being
the essentials governing Tomato culture. Even under glass,
late-raised plants are almost failures in a dull summer ; whilst
an early planting outdoors in a warm border, and training to
a wall which receives the maximum of sunshine, will give fail-
results even in indifferent weather.

The attention of the would-be Tomato-grower should therefore
be directed to the raising of plants very early in the year under
glass. The seeds should be sown thinly in five- or six-inch pots,
in pans, or in boxes. To accelerate germination, the pots may
be plunged in a brisk bottom heat, and the pots or pans covered
with squares of glass. The glass is not indispensable, but it
hastens germination and secures uniform moisture. The glass
must be removed as soon as the seedlings appear through the
soil, and when they are well above the surface the pots or pans
should be transferred to a shelf near the glass, aiming at all
stages of growth to keep the plants as sturdy as possible. Thin
out the seedlings if they are at all crowded, but this ought to
be avoided by sowing seeds thinly. Water them only when they
are dry, yet before the foliage flags, though a little limpness
will not do any harm, always using water of the same tem-
perature as the house. If the soil is of too close a nature, or
water too freely given at any time, however, the stems and roots
will rot. When the plants have developed a pair of leaves
other than the seed leaves, pot them singly into three-inch pots.
Employ clean, lightly-drained pots, and soil of the same tem-
perature as the house, consisting of two parts of fibrous loam
broken up moderately fine, and one part of thoroughly decom-
posed sifted manure. As the plants are rather tender, the
potting should be performed in the structure in which they are
growing.

First carefully shake out the seedlings and select the strongest.
Put a little of the roughest soil over the one crock placed in
each pot, then finer soil, leaving sufficient space for the roots

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 97

and stem below the seed leaves. Place the single plant in
the centre, fill in gently with soil up to the seed leaves, and press
the soil down very carefully, taking pains not to bruise the root
stem. Give the bottom of the pot a sharp tap upon the bench
when all is finished. The newly-potted plants should be kept
somewhat close, and shaded from bright sunshine for a few days.
When they are established, return them without delay to shelves
as near the glass as consistent with allowance for growth. Do
not allow them to become dry at the roots, but avoid keeping
the soil constantly saturated. A good plan, where constant
attention is a difficulty, is to plunge the pots into a box filled
with cocoa fibre, or leaf -mould, which should be made moist.
This will keep the pots and their occupants in equable moisture.
Allow sufficient room for growth, crowding being fatal.

GLASSHOUSE CULTURE. — It is of the greatest importance to
obtain strong, sturdy plants to start with, and have these well
established in the fruiting-pots by the time the first fruits are
set, The plants are sometimes transferred from the three-inch
to the fruiting-pots, eleven- or twelve-inch, the potting being
such that about a quarter of the depth is left for top-dressings
of compost ; but it is better to shift the plants from the three-
inch into six-inch pots, and from this size to pot them finally
into twelve-inch pots, when the first trusses are forming. Each
time they are potted on the plant should be placed lower in
the pot, in order gradually to cover up the stem so far as an
inch below the first pair of leaves. This part of the stem is
most valuable to the plant ; for from it will start a mass of
surface roots, on the strength of which the crop will depend
for nourishment. In dealing with young plants which have
been neglected in this particular, place them almost horizontally
in the box at the last planting, and cover up the stem to the
first foliage. The plant will assume an upright attitude in a
few days. It may be necessary to fertilize the early flowers
with a camel's-hair brush, under glass. Boxes, one foot by
two feet, are in many cases to be preferred to pots, because
they give so much more room for cultivating a broad mass of
surface roots. Room should be allowed for repeated top-
dressings of old hotbed material, to which may be added lime,
soot, or a chemical fertilizer in small quantities when the plant
is swelling its fruits. More water may be given when this
happens, and then clear soot-water occasionally. Pinching
and pruning must be attended to regularly ; removing as soon
as it appears each leafy shoot on the stem, but preserving the
8

98 VEGECULTURE

alternate one which shows a bunch of fruit. One or two stems
only should be kept on each plant, the second starting from
the base when the first is two feet high, so as to take its place
when it becomes bare of fruit. The plants need a stake each,
about. four feet in length, and to this the stems must be secured,
always leaving sufficient room in the ligatures for aftergrowth.
When established, the plants require copious supplies of water ;
but it is advisable to err, if at all, on the dry rather than the
wet side, though a deficiency of moisture at the roots when
the fruit is forming will be the cause of trouble in the way of
deformed, small fruit, and lead to premature ripening, and
hard, seedy fruits instead of tender, fleshy specimens. In no
case must crowding be allowed, or the house kept close and
saturated with moisture. A temperature of fifty-five to sixty
degrees at night, sixty to sixty-five degrees by day, with ten
to fifteen degrees rise from sun heat, is suitable, a little air being
given at sixty-five degrees, and increasing it with the advancing
heat so as to have the ventilation free, between seventy and
seventy-five degrees.

TOMATOES FROM CUTTINGS. — The perpetuation of Tomato
plants from cuttings is chiefly recommended because they are
considered to begin bearing earlier than seedlings, and they are
sometimes less vigorous, which is an advantage in a limited
space. This system is an excellent one by which to raise plants
for winter fruiting. The cuttings are struck in August, in small,
single pots, grown on, and shifted into larger pots as they become
necessary until a ten- or twelve-inch size is reached. The plants
are grown with single stems, being pinched after each bunch
of fruit shows by taking off the extreme point. New feeders
then speedily form, and additional fruits appear at their first
joints, ensuring productiveness at an early stage. Cuttings
struck at the beginning of October supply the early crop in the
spring, and are more desirable, as winter-fruiting is not always
satisfactory. Cuttings root readily if kept close in a heated
house, and after they are struck should be gradually inured
to the air of the house, and placed on shelves near the glass in
an airy position. The night temperature that is necessary
during the winter is from fifty-five to sixty degrees, whilst in
the daytime a rise of five degrees suffices. Careful management
is most essential to success.

TOMATOES FOR SPRING CUTTING. — For this purpose, the plants
may be grown in a frame, which should stand in the full sunshine.
The plants will have been raised previously in heat, and be

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 99

sufficiently grown to be placed in the frame, planted in boxes,
in April ; and if set with their first fruit, they will soon take to
their new quarters. A hotbed is not necessary. The boxes
should be placed at the lower part of the frame, and half-buried
in soil mixed with half-decayed leaves — this affording slight
warmth without impure exhalations. Plenty of air must be
given in the daytime, and the frame should be kept slightly
open at night, unless sharp frost sets in, when the frame must
be covered with mats until the morning. As the season pro-
gresses, give the Tomatoes more air night and day, and train
the stems below the glass on wire netting, or on canes fixed across
the frame, to keep them from lying on the ground. Tomatoes
grown in this way can be made to ripen fruit early in the season,
and late in the year.

OPEN-AIR CULTURE. — This is possible in nearly every garden,
even if it only results in a crop of green fruit, for these will make
an excellent pickle, and also may be ripened by exposure to
sunshine after they are gathered. One point towards success
is the provision of early, well-grown plants, which, moreover,
should be thoroughly hardened off before being planted out.
The earlier the latter can be accomplished, the greater the
chances are of fruit ripening. Protections can always be pro-
vided from frosts and cold winds. A great mistake is often
made in giving the plants strong doses of liquid manure before a
single fruit is set, the result being a rank growth, which is very
pleasing to the eye, but the grower finds little satisfaction in
the crop of fruit these plants reward him with. Tomatoes like
a very firm soil ; therefore plants should have the soil for two
feet around them trodden as firmly as possible. In this con-
nexion, it may be pointed out that an old cinder-path, broken
up and manured, makes an excellent medium for Tomatoes.
Where plants are growing against walls, and are supported by
wires, make a point of examining the latter every few days,
many of the ties probably not allowing for expansion. Do not
attempt to produce a record crop by running up several leaders.
This plan answers very well if it is desired to cover a bare wall
in a short time, but it will not produce a profitable crop. It is a
decided advantage to grow but one leader to each plant, remov-
ing all side shoots as soon as they show. Trusses of flowers
showing a leaf at the extremity should have this leaf removed
at once. Feeding with soot-water for the first fortnight induces
a strong, yet not too rank, growth ; and heavy crops on outdoor
plants may be obtained by the use of this alone. Avoid a too

100 VEGECULTURE

drastic removal of foliage. If some of the leaves are too large,
and make too much shade, cut half the leaf away. Should the
month of August pass withcmt ripe fruit being gathered, it will
be advisable to pinch out the leader at a couple of leaves beyond
the last bunch of fruit. It is only in exceptionally favourable
seasons that fruit results from flowers opening after August.

Varieties of the Tomato are legion, and are continually being
added to. I will mention those with well-established reputa-
tions. They include, for indoor work : Early Ruby, Earliest
of All, Holmes' Supre-me, Button's Perfection, Frogmore Selected,
Kondine Red, Favourite, Tresco, etc. (The last-named is a
very prolific variety of recent introduction ; but, in my opinion,
it illustrates one of those instances of over-strain in the effort
to produce extraordinary results in cropping or size, for I have
found that the Tresco, although growing enormously and
quickly, and forming bunches of blossom as large as a man's
head, not one-half of these will set fruits. The plants therefore
take up extra room and nourishment without giving additional
produce. My experience is backed by that of several acquaint-
ances who have tried the Tresco. We may have been unfor-
tunate in lack of sunshine during the seasons under our observa-
tion ; yet I think the Tresco Tomato has too great a burden to
bear.) Outdoor sorts may be safely said to include many of
those usually grown under glass ; it is merely a question of
situation, prevailing weather, and good culture. Holmes' Open
Air and a few others are suitable sorts.

The Yellow Tomato should receive better attention ; its
appearance and flavour, and ease of culture are all in its favour.
The best kinds include : Golden Nugget, Golden Jubilee,
Chiswick Peach, Golden Queen ; and there are many American
varieties worthy of British consideration.

I have just room to mention some Tomato novelties. One
is the " Cherry" Tomato, a small-fruiting plant, carrying about
twenty bunches of fruit, of about eight or twelve, one inch
or so in diameter. A splendid mid-season Tomato, providing
abundance of small but good dessert fruits. The " Red
Currant " Tomato cannot be recommended for edible purposes,
but is extremely ornamental grown upon trellises, etc. The
" Pear-shaped" or " Fig " Tomato is a very vigorous and early
variety, and should receive attention. There are many pear-
shaped kinds grown in the south of Italy ; but I can find only
one British-grown variety — Nisbett's Victoria — and seeds of
this are probably unobtainable. On the whole, there are too

THE VEGETABtE-^JlU^S

many modern improvements to allow these older sorts to retain
a share of public favour.

THE EGG-PLANT or AUBERGINE (Solanum melongena) .—
This is a plant of the future ; for when its excellent qualities
become generally known, and its culture understood and
popularly adopted, it will probably leap into public favour like
the Tomato has done. The latter vegetable-fruit is one which,
with many people, demands an acquired taste ; and the Egg-
plant is a somewhat similar subject, only waiting to be known
in order to become popular. Its uses are at present limited to
being cut into slices, fried in oil, or as an ingredient in stews and
soups. But there is another excellent side to its character —
that of the decorative. All the variations of the Egg-plant are
most handsome, in foliage, flower, and fruit ; and a conservatory
embellished with a few pots of this interesting plant acquires a
valuable additional attractiveness. The Aubergine is essentially
a greenhouse subject, although, in good summers, outdoor
culture is possible. The seeds must be sown in March, in a
strong, moist heat, and, when the seedlings have had about six
weeks' strenuous growth, they are pricked out, either on a
hotbed or into small pots. The latter are returned to the
source of heat — a plunge into a hotbed is a good method —
and grown on steadily until very well rooted. After this, the
plants are treated in a manner suited to the method of culture —
in or out of doors. For the latter purpose, the plants are usually
placed in four-inch pots, gradually hardened off, and planted
out in June. The site must be warm, sunny, and rich. Two
feet between each plant should be allowed, and a stick provided
for support. When full greenhouse culture is intended to be
given, the usual " shifting " up to the fruiting-pot size is the
procedure to be observed. The Aubergine forms an erect,
bushy plant, bearing its fruit somewhat after the fashion of the
Tomato, only a certain number of which are allowed to remain
on the plant. Towards the end of the season, the top shoots
of the plants should be pinched off. A liberal supply of clear
and manure-water is a great necessity, especially in hot weather.
There are many forms of the Egg-plant. Those usually grown
for practical fruiting, in Britain, are the earlier quickly-growing
varieties, such as the Early Long Purple, and the Early Dwarf
Purple. Other varieties may be 'grown for the sake of orna-
mental effect, the best one being White Egg, a most handsome
subject, of distinct relationship, whose low-growing and branching

1C:* VEGECULTURE

habit makes it an excellent pot-plant ; the flowers are of lilac
colour, and the fruits — of the shape and as large as a hen's egg,
and of a pure glistening white — are not often used for food.

CAPSICUMS or RED PEPPER (Capsicum annum) .—These
ornamental, interesting, and useful plants are grown after the
manner of the Tomato or Egg-plant, with perhaps a greater
care, and longer housing. By sowing seeds, in heat, during
February, pricking the seedlings into pots, shifting later, and
growing on, plants can be obtained for planting out in the open
in May ; or pot culture may be continued all along. For the
latter purpose, Capsicums are more suitable in these isles ;
but the large-fruited kinds should be selected, although the
smaller sorts (including the Chilies) are not to be despised. A
south wall should be reserved for those to be planted outdoors,
and the plants for that purpose must be gradually hardened off
before placing in their permanent stations ; even thus treated,
Capsicums cannot be said to be a success outside the glasshouse.
The plants are, after all, much better grown under glass. In
pots they assume the dimensions of small bushes, with woody
stems, and nothing can be more handsome than a plant covered
with large green, red, or yellow fruits. A light, rich soil is
necessar}', composed of turfy loam, leaf-mould, cow manure,
and sand. Firm planting is also essential to fruiting. Six-
inch pots are large enough for the final potting, and frequent
syringeing of the plants is desirable during hot weather. The
fruits will hang a long time on the branches after they are ripe,
and this, of course, adds to the value of the plants for decorative
purposes. Frames may be utilized for Capsicum culture if
desired. Abundance of air, moisture, and manure-water should
be given in every circumstance. Green-fly and red-spider are
to be guarded against. The uses of Capsicums are, first, as a
pickle ingredient ; second, as a flavouring condiment ; and
third, as vegetables, boiled. For the latter purpose, there are
varieties in which the accustomed pungency is absent, or nearly
so. The best sorts for the amateur are the Elephant's Trunk,
Golden Dawn, Chili Pepper, and Celestial; and a packet of
mixed seeds will produce a profusion of ornamental fruits of
many shapes, in white, green, red, yellow, golden, and scarlet
colours.

THE UNICORN PLANT (Marty ma) .—This plant has a
valuable asset on the ornamental side, which perhaps prepon-

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 103

derates over the utility. It is indeed a splendid greenhouse
subject, of trailing of semi-climbing habit, bearing handsome
flowers, yellow or lilac, which are followed by a curious horned
green fruit, or seed-pod. These pods, while yet young and
tender, are gathered and pickled in vinegar. The fruits should
not be more than half-grown for this purpose. The plant yields
abundantly, as a rule. Full greenhouse culture, with much
heat, is essential all through growth, although the plants may,
if desired, be bedded outdoors. The seeds, especially, require
a brisk bottom heat to germinate, and the young plants are no
less partial to warmth. The plants are of annual duration,
and require exactly the same treatment in sowing and potting-
on as that given to most tender annual flowering-plants.

THE CUCUMBER (Cucumis sativus) is the popular repre-
sentative of the useful Family of the "Curcubjts," which
includes, besides the Cucumber, the Melon, Gourd, Pumpkin,
Squash, and Vegetable Marrow, suited to a variety of excellent
purposes, and all of them may be claimed as decorative subjects.
The culture is somewhat exacting, requiring the assistance of
heated glass structures, and much depends upon the skill in
management of the cultivator. Outdoor culture is amply
provided for, however, after the initial seed-germination and
plant-raising has been successfully completed under glass ;
and besides the Vegetable Marrows and Gourds, which are
essentially outdoor summer subjects, the Cucumber can be
given outdoor conditions, and Melons are also represented by
varieties which only require a nominal frame-protection. Where
there are no hothouses to rear the young plants, they may be
raised in a frame on a hotbed. Two or three barrow-loads of
fresh horse droppings put into a cool greenhouse will also give
sufficient heat to cause the seeds to germinate quickly. Light,
turfy loam is the best soil ; leaf-mould and sand should be
added. Cucumbers and Melons are best sown singly in small
pots. The soil should be pressed down gently, and the seeds
covered with half an inch of soil, placed lightly on them. When
the seedlings are up, and have made two leaves besides the seed
leaves, they should be potted into a larger-sized pot, using the
same soil materials. When the roots have filled these pots,
the plant will be ready for planting out in the cold frames.
Such plants as these are obtainable for planting outdoors the
first week in June, and there will not be much doubt about them
succeeding. Those plants to receive full indoor treatment all

104 VEGECULTURE

through their existence are grown on carefully from pot to pot,
until they occupy their fruiting quarters. At any rate, up to
the first shift, the culture is practically the same for all members
of the Cucumber Family. After that stage, separate and
special culture comes into operation for each section. It may
be well to mention here that, when hot manure is used, it should
be made firm before the soil is put on it ; also that the soil
should not be trodden firm for Cucumbers, but for Melons
should always be made compact all over.

With regard to the Cucumber, there is no more profitable
and ornamental procedure than growing this subject in a
greenhouse. Most glass structures, on account of the extra
attention demanded in the upkeep of moisture to combat the
hot, dry weather usually prevailing, and the tiring application
of liquid to so many small pots, are in a4 state of woeful neglect
during the summer months. In some cases, even Tomatoes fail
to give a satisfactory return ; but Cucumbers, if properly
managed and grown, will rarely fail to prove accommodating.
The conditions governing the culture of Cucumbers include an
ample provision of water and liquid manure, and this becomes a
far easier matter to accomplish where half a dozen or a dozen
plants are concerned, than fifty or a hundred or more in the
way of floral decoration, especially if the Cucumber plants
are grown in the greenhouse border, large, deep boxes, and
large pots, for the bulk of soil, besides holding a greater quantity
of moisture, can be assisted in liquid retention by the use of a
thick manurial mulch, which is not possible, of course, with
flowers in small pots ; hence, the comparative ease of Cucumber
culture. Then there is the advantages of a roof covered with
large, handsome leaves, affording desirable shade to such
flowering plants one may find room for ; and this adds to the
utility of the improvised Cucumber house in transferring the
almost impossible maintenance of floral supply in hot weather
into a certainty.

However, Cucumbers pay the amateur. After his autumn,
winter, and early spring floral beauties — which he is wise enough
to have been in possession of — have done their best, he should
clear his house of all these plants at the end of April, and make
ready for the accommodation of the useful Cucumber. The
procedure — to be brief — consists firstly in making heaps of
rich soil over the hot-water pipes, or on a hotbed ; the soil to
be, for preference, a sandy, turfy loam. The temperature

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 105

of the house should then be raised to at least eighty degrees.
When this is accomplished, seeds may be sown, or plants
placed, upon the prepared mounds of soil. For a while a
temperature of sixty degrees at night should be maintained,
until growth has become well advanced, all the time syringeing
and ventilating the house freely ; and soon the artificial heat
may be dispensed with or reduced. No stopping is required
until the plants have reached the roof ; here they may be
trained to suit the convenience of the grower. The fruits must
be kept well thinned ; and the whole plant should receive
copious syringeings, with liquid manure applications to the
soil below. As growth proceeds, the soil should receive additions
of rich materials to form a larger rooting surface.

Plenty of air, light, and moisture are the chief essentials to
Cucumber growing ; the leaves of the plant usually afford
sufficient shade from the rays of the sun, and, incidentally, to
a few flowering plants that may be placed here and there to
brighten the house. Initial heat may be dispensed with, if
desired, if well-grown, sturdy plants are used, the only object
being early produce. Such varieties as Rochford's, Telegraph,
and Lockie's Perfection, are used for indoor work.

As WINTER CULTURE is a somewhat exacting process, and
the Cucumber is not generally a winter favourite, I shall say
but little concerning this phase ; but a high temperature,
existing in a good house, careful, watchful management, and
a scrupulous regulation of heat, air, and moisture are the most
necessary items of culture where winter produce is aimed at.
Seeds or cuttings may be used to provide the plants, which
are raised from September to November for successional
supply.

OUTDOOR RIDGE CULTURE may be likened to Vegetable
Marrow treatment, with the exception that a bed of fermenting
materials is necessary, the plants are more delicate, and in cold
summers Ridge Cucumbers are often disappointing, and even
failures. Plants, raised in the usual manner and carefully
hardened off, are planted out on raised beds or mounds of
loamy soil in the first week of May, and afterwards afforded
protection by handlight, bell-glass, etc., until established.
When growth has well begun, pinch out the points of the shoots ;
no further interference with the plants will be required, beyond
training, after this. Subsequent culture may be generally
described as that given to Vegetable Marrows. Stockwood
Long, Barr's Excelsior, Bedfordshire Prize, Long and Short

106 VEGECULTURE

Prickly, etc., are usually grown outdoors. The Gherkin and
the Little Russian Cucumber are grown for pickling purposes ;
they are quite small, and require but little culture.

THE JAPANESE CUCUMBER. — This Cucumber is an uncommon
kind introduced from Japan several years ago. It is perfectly
hardy, of climbing habit, growing some four feet to six feet
high, and bearing fruits of good flavour, averaging ten inches
to twelve inches long, quite freely, the plant being readily
grown in the open air. Seeds can be obtained from most seeds-
men, and should be sown where the plants are required to grow.
Choose a sunny spot, dig a hole three feet wide and two feet
deep, put in a couple of feet of manure, and then replace the
soil on top to form a mound, on which plant three or four seeds
an inch apart. When the seedlings appear, select the two
strongest, and remove the others. Place some stout pea-sticks
around the plants, up which they will quickly climb. Give
plenty of \vater, also liquid manure when the fruit begins to
form. The Cucumbers should be gathered for use when about
six inches long, the flavour then being more delicate than if
they are allowed to grow to a larger size. This variety needs
little more care than the ordinary kinds, but is more productive,
the fruits being considerably longer and of better shape, while
if quickly grown, the flavour is certainly equal to the majority
of those from plants in frames. Should a border at the foot of
a warm wall or fence be available, the site will be an ideal one,
and will ensure fruits in a very short time after planting ; or a
sheltered spot may be selected and trenches containing plenty
of manure, covered with at least a foot of garden soil, may be
utilized. It all depends on the quality or consistency of the
soil and the suitability of the locality as to which system of
culture should be adopted. Afford plenty of tepid water as
soon as active growth commences, and after a hot day, sprinkle
overhead with a syringe or brush dipped in tepid water.

. THE VEGETABLE MARROW.— This vegetable, well-known
and popular, requires no description ; but its culture should
receive greater attention, especially from the household gardener.
There is no imperative necessity for a manure-heap or hotbed
in order to grow good Marrows ; but where such can be pro-
vided it is an advantage. Good, heavily-manured, well-worked
soil will be sufficient, however, and the plants may be planted
upon the level ground — perhaps in a slight depression to assist

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 107

the retention of moisture ; a heap of leaves or decaying weeds
and vegetable matter may also be pressed into service. Marrows
should, I consider, be trained to climb by a gradual ascent,
accomplished by means of wire-netting stretched over a frame
and tilted against the wall, or fence, or bank ; upon a faggot of
wood, a low shed, etc.

Marrow seeds are of an easy-germinating character. They
should be sown singly in three-inch pots, which may be either
placed in a warm greenhouse with a sheet of glass upon them,
or in a propagator. After the seeds have germinated, place
the pots near the glass to promote strong, sturdy growth, and
repot into larger-sized pots as required. To form a bed for a
Marrow, a hole about two and a half feet square and one and a
half feet deep should be excavated in the ground in a sunny
position and one foot of manure and leaves mixed together in
equal parts be placed in the bottom. On top of this about
twelve inches of rich soil should be placed. After the plants
have been gradually hardened off, one should be planted in
the centre of each bed and be protected with a handlight or
bell-glass until thoroughly established. Marrows require abun-
dance of moisture at the roots, whilst frequent applications of
weak manure are of great assistance during the fruiting season.
The fruit should be cut when they have reached a fair size,
because if left to grow as large as possible the plants quickly
become exhausted. Moreover, the younger fruits are the
tenderest. Seeds may also be sown outdoors in April where
the plants are to remain ; whilst as late as June, seeds of the
small-fruiting kinds may be sown under glass with good results
ensuing therefrom.

Pen-y-byd is a fine variety for late work. The larger sorts
include white, green, yellow, cream, and striped varieties ;
whilst the smaller Marrows are well represented by the Custard
varieties, Bush or Cluster, and Come and Cut Again.

THE PUMPKIN AND SQUASH.— The Pumpkin, or Gourd,
is not appreciated in this country, if one may judge by the
extent to which it is cultivated ; and the fact points out a
decided loss. The Pumpkin is an economical vegetable-fruit,
and may be used for a variety of purposes. Its large size and
bulk of flesh proclaims it a valuable food subject, and it would
prove an asset in the domestic economy of any household which
learned to appreciate its flavour and worth. Indeed, the latter
remark is the key to the question of general use. Very few

108 VEGECULTURE

know the Pumpkin. One or two slices of Pumpkin in almost
any fruit-pie imparts a rich and delicious flavour, and itself
constitutes an excellent fruit for all purposes. Culture of these
vegetable-fruits may be generally put on a level with Ridge
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows, with the exception that
they require more room. A hotbed, or mound of fermenting
materials, should be provided for Pumpkin-growing, and the
plants, raised under glass, should be put out as early as the
weather conditions permit, in order to secure a good start. The
object of the fermenting materials is simply to provide initial
heat to ensure strong and swift growth. Plenty of water and
liquid manure are the usual essentials, as well as the careful
training and disposal of the shoots so as to prevent overcrowd-
ing. In this respect it must be remembered that Pumpkins
are very rampant plants — a point that no doubt explains their
absence from the smaller garden — and they cover much space ;
but their large handsome leaves and novel fruit are compensa-
tions to all who enjoy the beautiful, and their space-absorbing
proclivities may be curtailed by training them — by means of
wire-netting frames placed slanting against fences and walls —
for many feet along such walls or fences ; and nothing can be
more effective. An old tree-stump, low shed, manure-heap,
or rubbish-shoot can be beautified and utilized in a remarkable
manner by planting Pumpkins near them. The ripe fruits may
be hung up in a dry, frost-proof shelter all the winter, and used
with vegetables in stews and soups, as fruits in pies, tarts, and
fruit-salads ; and the tops of the shoots may be gathered,
when no further fruits are wanted, and, boiled like Spinach,
will prove a most delicious and tasty vegetable dish. Pumpkin
and Vegetable Marrow Preserves are delicious.

THE SQUASH is a similar subject to the Pumpkin, and requires
the same treatment.

There are several kinds of both plants. The Mammoth
Hundredweight — green, white, yellow, red — are huge novel
fruits, and are suited to jam, preserve, or marmalade-manu-
facture and pumpkin pies. The Spanish Gourd is also ex-
cellent. A packet of seeds of mixed varieties will delight any
gardener. There is, of course, no necessity for allowing these
fruits to attain large size ; they are delicious when small and
young.

ORNAMENTAL GOURDS are not all of an edible nature, and
should not be grown for that purpose ; but, trained to stakes,
canes, trellises, fences, wires, arches, and pergolas, are about

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 109

the most handsome plants of vegetable origin one can possibly
wish for. The culture is precisely the same as for the larger
edible sorts, Great novelty is attached to shapes and colours
in these subjects ; the names given them indicating their de-
scription: Warted, Powder-flask, Turk's-cap (red, white, green),
Teasel, Hedgehog, Snake-cucumber, Ostrich-egg, Gooseberry,
Bottle, Hercules' -club, Rag, Bishop' s-mitre, Syphon, Squirting-
cucumber, Red China, Loofah, Onion-shaped, Black Pear,
Pear-shaped, Wax Gourd, Egg-shaped, Mock Orange, and
others, in yellow, white, green, red, orange, citron, and variously
striped ! A medley of colours, shapes, contortions, all quaint,
curious, ornamental, and decidedly interesting ; affording an
excellent opportunity to make the kitchen-garden really hand-
some and decorative !

THE MELON (Cucumis melo}. — The Melon can boast of great
antiquity, and is a native of the warmer parts of Asia. It
can hardly be classed as a vegetable, although its appearance
and manner of growth is of a vegetable nature, in close similarity
to the Cucumber and Vegetable Marrow ; it is, rather, a luscious,
cool, and most palatable fruit of high qualities. The culture
of the Melon may be generally regarded as the same as that of
the Cucumber, the difference being found in the somewhat
higher temperature, firmer soil, a greater amount of light and
air, with less moisture. Melons are essentially summer fruits
with the average grower, and the months that intervene between
the end of October and the beginning of May can with greater
profit be devoted to some other crop.

Although Cucumbers and Melons may be grown in the same
house, it is not advisable, for the greater moisture and shade
that Cucumbers enjoy would not be tolerated by Melons ;
therefore separate accommodation is best. For frame culture,
a hotbed is prepared in the usual manner, eighty degrees being
a favourable temperature at planting-time.

A good turfy loam is the ideal soil, and manure need not be
added to any soil unless it be poor. The soil should be piled
up into mounds, or ridges, whether in frames or a house ; and
if arrangements can be made for the occasional addition of
fresh soil as the plants grow, great benefit to the rooting powers
of the plants will be secured. Melons require, primarily, sun-
heat, and this fact should be taken into consideration when
planting.

If properly managed, Melons do not require much cutting or

110 VEGECULTURE

pruning. The first consideration is plenty of space for each
plant. When two rough leaves have been produced, the shoot
is pinched out, resulting in the formation of a couple of side-
shoots ; these, after half a dozen leaves have appeared, are
again pinched. No further interference with the growth of
the plants is needed, until the fruits are formed ; and then,
allowing one fruit only to remain, the shoot should be pinched
just above this fruit. It is a procedure of careful selection of
useful and removal of superfluous growth, remembering that
too much cutting induces disease, and overcrowding destroj's
fruiting. The rules governing the watering of Melon plants
are principally upon the lines of never allowing dryness at the
root ; a light syringeing over the foliage once or twice daily —
this latter principally to keep red spider away ; an extra supply
when flowers are forming ; and thereafter just sufficient moisture
provided to keep the plants growing healthily. When trained
to rafters, the vines must be given support to bear the strain
of the heavy fruits.

As this delicious fruit is now a great favourite with growers
of all classes, there is no reason why the amateur should not
succeed with a few plants, though these can hardly be grown
in an ordinary greenhouse ; they require a slightly higher tem-
perature, with a limitation of air, and a constantly moist atmos-
phere— during the early stages, at any rate. If there is no
proper bed, they may be grown in pots, or even in good-sized
boxes ; but the drainage must be very free, and the soil be
pressed quite firm. During the early stages, the general treat-
ment is somewhat similar to that for Cucumbers, but rather
less heat is necessary, and the plants should not be syringed,
nor the place damped down, quite as heavily as for Cucumbers.
When watering, the moisture must always be kept away from
the neck or collar of each plant, for, if this part is frequently
wetted, canker is very liable to set in. If the plants are grown
upon a mound of soil, this trouble will be avoided. An im-
portant point in the culture of this subject is the fertilization
of the fruit-blossoms, when expanded, for the Melon is one of
those plants that require to have its fruits " set " artificially.
This is done by transferring the pollen from one or more of the
male or barren flowers, with a small, soft brush, on to the
stigmas of the female or fruit-bearing blossoms. The work
should be done about the middle of a bright, warm day, with a
rather dry atmosphere prevailing, and all the fruits wanted
on each plant — usually five to eight — must be " set " at one

THE VEGETABLE-FRUITS 111

time. If the fruit sets, the blossom will close up in a few hours ,
and quickly fade away. The male flowers may be readily
distinguished, as they are larger than the females.

As a fair amount of sunshine is favourable to the growth of
Melons, every means should be provided to ensure it. Whilst
the plants are in flower they will need fresh air whenever the
weather will permit, but this must not be allowed to reduce the
heat too much. While the use of the syringe must be discon-
tinued until the fruits are set, it is advisable to damp
the walls and paths during this period, otherwise the plants
will become a prey to red spider. Also lightly stir the soil.
As soon as a sufficient number of fruits are set, let the foliage
be given a thorough syringeing with clear tepid rain-water, and
continue to keep the house well charged with moisture after-
wards. The trellis should be clothed with healthy foliage,
not too thickly placed ; and laterals must be removed as they
appear, stopping them at the first leaf. During the period
when the fruits are swelling the plants will need frequent
applications of liquid manure and soot-water ; whilst a sprink-
ling of some artificial manure on the surface soil, well watered
in afterwards, will afford a change of food.

CANKER. — One of the worst enemies of the Melon is the
canker, and when it appears it will soon affect the whole house.
There is nothing better than fresh-slaked lime, nibbed well into
the affected parts, which will harden the plants and dry up the
moisture in a few hours.

INSECTS. — The insects that chiefly attack Melons are red-
spider, black aphis, and thrips. The best and quickest way to
get rid of these pests is to vaporize the house.

There are a great many varieties of Melons, many of which
are not grown in this country, some being red, some green,
and others white-fleshed. Those suited to indoor culture
include Frogmore Scarlet, Lockinge Hero, Blenheim Orange,
and Countess of Lathom. Among the novel and peculiar kinds
may be placed : The Algerian, Black Portugal, and Paul Rose ;
and Long Island Beauty, Early Black Rock, and Netted Gem
are very early-maturing varieties. The Cantaloup, Open-air
Green, and White Flesh, are frame varieties, and may even be
treated like Gourds ; and Calabria and Fordhook Early are two
excellent " water " Melons.

GROWING MELONS, CUCUMBERS, AND VEGETABLE-MARROWS IN
FRAMES. — It is quite easy to grow these subjects in cold frames
during the summer months, although this is not generally

112 VEGECULTURE

realized or acted upon, consequently frames lie idle which
might profitably be used for this purpose. Success depends
a great deal on having good plants to start with, and these
should be raised or obtained in readiness. The Improved
Telegraph is one of the best of Cucumbers for frame culture.
The Melon usually grown in cold frames is the Cantaloup.
The flavour is inferior, to that of other kinds, but the plant
is very hardy, succeeding when some of the better-flavoured
varieties fail. As flavour is of most importance, however,
such sorts as Blenheim Orange and a few other good-class
varieties which are also hardy and almost as sure to succeed
in the cold frame as the Cantaloup, may be given a trial. The
soil in the frames should be made very rich by digging in three
or four inches of well-rotted manure. In addition to this
a hole is dug out in the centre of each light, about a foot deep
and as much wide, and filled up with well-rotted manure.
The soil which was taken out is put over the manure to form a
raised mound. If the hole is filled with the manure when it
is hot, it will keep warm for some time, and assist the plants in
starting root action and growth. One Cucumber plant is
enough for each light, and is better than when more are used.
Melons will prosper with three plants in each light, these being
put in the centre over the manure ; whilst the small-fruiting
kinds of Vegetable Marrows may be obtained earlier in the
year by frame culture.

SECTION IX

MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES

IN this section I have placed those vegetables which cannot
be said to possess any decided cultural affinity with other
occupants of the kitchen-garden, having peculiar and exclu-
sive demands in the way of cultivation. They are cultivated
for the use of their leaves, shoots, or flower-buds ; and the
inclusion of the unique Mushroom completes a very diverse
and yet extremely valuable collection of delicate, choice vege-
table growths.

ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis). — Under favourable cir-
cumstances the Asparagus-bed may be regarded as a permanent
establishment, for, improving with age, its qualities will not
become at all impaired for quite ten years, whilst many will
last double and treble that time if originally well made. A
ten- or twelve-year renewal is, however, advisable. Three-
year-old plants are necessary for immediate bearing ; but
those raised from seed sown in situ are the best. A sandy
loam, deep and rich, suits Asparagus more than any other soil ;
but any good soil will answer. The plant can be also grown in
chalky soils with success, if well manured. Asparagus is also
a seaside plant, and, naturally, is very partial to dressings of
salt, and a gritty or sandy soil. Thorough drainage is perhaps
the essential factor in Asparagus culture, for stagnant moisture
is fatal to good growth ; neither is it sufficient for the surface
spit only to be drained — the subsoil, too, must be well freed
from liquid accumulations. There is no necessity for the heavy
manuring that is often indulged in, except on poor ground ;
for a rich, deep, well-dug medium will give the best of results
with ordinary manuring and annual top-dressings.

The site for the Asparagus-bed must be an open one. It

"3

9

114 VEGECULTURE

may be trenched and well-manured several times before the
plantation is made — at least once in the autumn and again
during the winter. After that is done, the soil should be ridged.
Should such procedure be inconvenient, however, a good
Asparagus-bed will be forthcoming by deeply digging and manur-
ing the soil in the ordinary manner. Where the soil is not of a
good character, the top-spit must be removed entirely, the
subsoil thoroughly broken-up and manured, and upon it placed
a better medium to provide a surface soil. The bed may be
made on the level surface or raised a few inches. It depends
upon the quality of the soil and the situation thereof as to
what course shall be pursued in this direction ; but the raised
bed makes for drainage, for one thing, and assists in the im-
provement of indifferent soils. It is best to emphasize the
importance of perfect drainage when the plants are grown upon
the level surface. The rows may be, for an average crop,
about one and a half foot to two feet apart, and the plants one
foot to one and a half foot apart in the rows.

Seeds are sown in April, three inches deep, in dibbled holes,
two or three seeds being dropped in each hole, subsequently
thinning the seedlings to one plant only, when about six inches
high. Plants may be secured, if more convenient, and placed
at the same distances apart as the seed-stations. They should
not be planted too deeply. Future culture consists chiefly
in keeping the bed free from weeds — a most important thing,
for otherwise ruin results. To do this more effectively, narrow
beds, say, three feet wide (with a small pathway between),
carrying a couple of rows of plants, are advisable.

As soon as the shoots appear above ground, in early spring,
a light covering of hay, straw, grass cuttings, leaf-mould, or
similar material, may be placed over them, both as a protection
from frost and a means of blanching. This litter can be
removed after the month of May has passed, or perhaps left
to enrich the bed. The shoots may be cut with a. sharp knife
just below the surface of the bed, or pulled with a twist there-
from ; but extreme care should be exercised in the operation,
or great injury will be done to the roots and younger shoots.
Cutting should cease by the end of June. In exposed positions
supporting stakes or sticks should be given to the subsequent
light-stemmed, feathery foliage. As soon as these leafy stems
change colour, in the autumn, they should be cut down close
to the ground, the beds thoroughly cleaned and raked or lightly
and carefully forked over. This latter operation should be

MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES 115

repeated in the spring, all weeds also being removed, and a
couple of inches of well-rotted manure spread over the whole
bed.

Perhaps the best-known and most profitable variety is Con-
nover's Colossal, a splendid, large, all-round sort ; Purple
Argenteuill is a late sort, and so is the Purple Dutch ; Mortlake
Giant is very suitable for those who wish to force Asparagus, a
process I do not recommend the amateur to attempt ; and the
Green Canadian and the " Mammoth " special varieties offered
by most nurserymen are equally useful sorts.

THE GLOBE ARTICHOKE (Cynara scolymus). — This vege-
table consists of the " flowers " of a four-foot plant. These
" flowers " are composed of scale-like leaves, overlapping one
another, and fleshy at the base. It is propagated either from
seeds, " suckers," or division of the old stools ; the best one of
these methods being that of using the " suckers/' or shoots,
that spring up from the root-stock of the matured plant in the
early part of each year. This process, however, requires care,
for each shoot should retain a certain portion of the root-stock
from which it is cut, without seriously injuring the old plant.
The Globe Artichoke is a perennial plant, but it deteriorates
after a growth of three or four seasons, and requires replacing
by younger stock. Where there is an existing bed of this
vegetable, a few shoots may be allowed to remain to provide
a continuation of supplies until the new bed comes into bearing ;
all the rest being removed for new stock purposes. The
" heel " is trimmed and dressed, the leaves shortened, and the
shoot is then planted in a bed of rich, moist, deeply-dug and
well-drained soil, in rows, with as much space from plant to
plant as can be afforded — two or three feet, at least. Planting
must be done firmly, but not too deeply, and water given to
each shoot. Ample liquid supplies are often necessary during
growth ; and this, together with the use of the hoe, is practically
all the cultivation demanded. The soil, moreover, must be of
a well-manured character, rich in humus and moisture-retaining.
Sandy loam is an excellent medium. The shoots may, of course,
be given special initial culture in nursery-beds, if thought
desirable. Produce from these youngsters, if well-cared for,
will be gathered during the autumn of the same year ; and the
same results attend those raised from seeds sown in February,
in a gentle heat, and planted out in May. Where facilities for
the latter procedure do not exist, seeds may be sown in April

116 VEGECULTURE

or May in the open air, and the resulting plants allowed to
remain, thinned out to the required distance apart ; but these
will not give results until the following year. Other methods
consist in successional planting of plants, when obtainable ;
also in cutting back the old plants close to the earth at intervals
during the spring and summer. The Artichoke, however, is
at the height of its possible perfection in its third season. New
shoots can always be produced by cutting back the flowering
stems.

In dry weather, copious waterings with clear and manure-
water are necessary, and a mulch of rotten manure, leaves, etc.,
is very beneficial. Globe Artichokes are not altogether of a
hardy nature, and in many districts protection during the
winter is imperative ; and it is usually advisable to place a
light heap of leaves or litter over the stools on the approach
of hard weather, or to give an earthing up of loose soil ; a
covering of litter, upon which the earth is banked, is an excel-
lent protection in cold districts. The protecting material,
however, should be removed immediately fair weather obtains.
The soil between the rows may be dug lightly and manured
each year in the spring with advantage. Fresh plantations
every year are advisable where space permits ; and no bed
should be allowed to exist longer than four years.

Artichokes are a most delicate vegetable when properly
and well cooked ; and it is in its ideal state when young and
freshly gathered. The base portion of the " scales " of the
heads and the stem just beneath them are the edible parts,
although, if blanched by earthing up, the stems and leaves
provide a dish not to be despised ; and if the heads themselves
are gathered when in a very young condition, and boiled like
an ordinary vegetable, they will be found to be most excellent.

There are several varieties, but British seedsmen and nursery-
men usually offer two stock varieties — the Purple and Green.

MAIZE, or INDIAN CORN (Zea ways) .—Most people are
familiar with the Maize, or Indian Corn, as grown for forage or
as an ornamental plant in the garden, but comparatively few
know what a delicious vegetable the " cobs " make when
properly grown and served. A hot, dry summer brings the
plant to the greatest perfection, and it requires a long season.
Seeds are sown singly in small pots in April, and the plants
established in well-enriched soil the first week in June. The
Seeds may also be sown in the open border about the same time

MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES 117

as Beet or Kidney Beans are sown— some time in May, when
frost no longer threatens ; yet, even though the plants be cut
down by frost, if not entirely killed, they will spring up again,
and give a good crop. The only attention required is the use
of the hoe and an occasional watering. Gathering usually
commences at the end of September, although, by sowing seeds
of different degrees of earliness, a successional supply may be
had until frosts put an end to growth. The heads, or " cobs "
are boiled whole, and served with butter ; and the smallest and
immature heads may be pickled in vinegar.

THE MUSHROOM (Agaricus campestris}. — Anyone in posses-
sion of an outhouse, shed, or cellar, in which an equable tem-
perature and even balance of moisture can be maintained, can
grow Mushrooms ; and there is no reason why those with out-
door facilities should not be equally successful. Mushrooms,
growing naturally in the fields, may be studied as a guide to
garden culture. A moderately dry spring, especially during
April, and a hot August and September, with heavy clews each
night, accompanied by an occasional downpour of rain, always
results in a good Mushroom season. But if it be a very wet
spring and cold summer, few Mushrooms will be found. The
same conditions governing the growth of Mushrooms in a natural
state, therefore, are also conducive to their successful cultiva-
tion in the garden. As a heavy shower of rain is the natural
method of watering in the open pasture, so are good soakings,
when required, given with the water-pot to the cultivated
fungi — always in a tepid state. Again, as natural heavy dews
are the promoters of plump, fleshy Mushrooms, every attention
must be given to the damping of floors and syringeing of walls
and bare spaces indoors, and the proper application of moisture
to the outside beds.

The culture of Mushrooms is a very simple process, and easily
accomplished when every detail is strictly observed. It is
preferable that the manure should be secured in a fresh condi-
tion, if possible. Only the longest straw need be removed.
The manure-heap is turned over every day, to allow the rank
steam to escape, and on no account is the material permitted to
remain undisturbed until it heats violently, or it will lose much
of its virtue ; neither should it be overdried. Avoid using
manure from stables in which horses are receiving medicine
or where carrots are used as a feeding material ; such manure
is injurious and detrimental to the growth of Mushrooms,

118 VEGECULTURE

In making the bed, the ridge usually measures about three
feet wide at the base, tapering to about a width of six inches at
the top, with a somewhat steep slope. The long and compara-
tively clean straw in the manure is forked out, dried, and placed
on one side for covering the bed later on. The remainder is
formed into a heap as for making a hotbed ; this heap being
pulled to pieces every four or five days, and rebuilt, with
thorough mixing. A further turning is given after this on
alternate days.

For both indoor and outdoor situations, the material should
be made into a compact bed, by treading or beating it heavily ;
and while this process will consolidate the bed vertically, the
sides will have to be well beaten, and combed down with a fork
to give a thatched effect which throws off rain. To prevent
violent heating or drying in the centre, deep holes should be
made in the bed with an iron bar six to twelve inches apart
along the ridge ; the excess heat will thus pass off. There are
different methods of testing the temperature to ascertain when
the correct degree of heat is in evidence. Large growers use
" test-sticks," inserted a foot or so into the lower portion of
the bed, and withdrawn daily. If the hand cannot then grasp
the stick, when removed, without inconvenience, the bed is
too hot, and spawning must be deferred until the end of the
stick can be held without discomfort. Experienced growers
also rely upon testing the heat with the naked hand only ;
but the amateur should always use a thermometer, for safety's
sake. Eighty degrees is the correct temperature for spawning ;
and this figure must be on the decrease, for if the heat rises the
spawn will be killed.

Mushroom spawn bricks, if containing good spawn, will, when
broken, present the appearance of a mass of silvery cobwebs
and smell strongly of Mushrooms. A mouldy or spotted brick
should be rejected, also any permeated by large white, cotton-
like threads and miniature tubercles here and there. The brick
is usually divided into about eight pieces. The operator simply
thrusts one hand into the bed, making a hole in the manure,
and forcibly presses in the piece of spawn brick with the other
hand, then readjusts the material. The rain cannot thus soak
into the holes, but is thrown off. The spawn is thus planted
all over the bed at intervals of about nine inches. When, after
about three or four days, the spawn has commenced to run,
the bed may be earthed. If necessary, the surface is covered
with litter previous to earthing to maintain the essential warmth*

MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES 119

Strong, turfy loam is the best for earthing a Mushroom-bed — the
top three or four inches ol a pasture which has been stacked
for some time previously, and chopped fine. Good, strong,
loamy garden mould will answer this purpose also. The soil
should be moist, and it must be beaten as firmly as possible.

Using soil in a suitable condition will obviate the necessity
for watering until the Mushrooms appear. If water is required
before this, supply it through a fine rose, at a temperature of
about ninety degrees. Remove the bulk of the covering while
watering, afterwards replacing it. This covering, moreover,
should be removed altogether when the Mushrooms appear,
substituting sheets of brown paper, as insects are then not
harboured; indeed, it may be dispensed with if the shed is
kept quite dark and the bed is protected from cold winds.
Mushrooms ought to appear in from five to six weeks after
spawning, and continue to do so for two months or more. When,
however, the spawn shows signs of exhaustion, a thorough
watering with tepid liquid manure in a weak state should be
given ; this will stimulate the spawn to renewed action. A moist
atmosphere is essential to Mushroom growth ; therefore the
indoor beds, walls, and floor of the shed should be lightly
syringed occasionally.

When gathering Mushrooms they should not be cut with
a knife, but pulled up with the stems attached, afterwards
trimming them. If a knife be used and the old stool left, the
latter decays and kills the small " buttons " which are growing
around, whereas if pulled up, young Mushrooms will quickly
grow in and near the cavity made. If gathered when about
three parts developed, the Mushrooms will be solid, fresh,
and more palatable on arriving at their destination. To secure
a regular supply, make a fresh bed at intervals of six weeks or so.

Should mice, woodlice, or cockroaches feed on the young
buttons, spread some phosphor paste on bits of bread and on
paper, and lay them thickly over the beds. If the straw with
which the beds are covered begins to rot, remove it and put
'clean material in its place. Fill up with ^oil all holes made in
removing the Mushrooms, and by no means allow rotting ends
to remain in the beds. These are small items of attention which
have a great influence upon the successful growth of Mushrooms.

SPINACH (Spinacia oleracea). — A deep, rich, moist soil is
necessary to grow good Spinach, a vegetable noted for its health-
giving properties, There are two kinds of Common Spinach

120 VEGECULTURE

one for summer and another for winter sowings. This vege-
table may be treated as a catch-crop. The summer varieties
(round-seeded) are sown at intervals of a fortnight, in drills,
from February to July, thinning the seedlings out to about
six inches apart. The sowings which have to stand the hottest
part of the summer are best sown between row of tall subjects,
such as Peas, in order to obtain the shade and conserved
moisture there afforded. The sorts for summer use are :
Longstanding Round, Thick-leaved Round, Victoria, Virofiay, and
New Zealand (Tetragona expansa). The latter is a fine, large
variety, and is sown in May, and requires but little attention
after being severely thinned ; the plants may also be raised
earlier in the year in heat and planted out afterwards. Leaves
from its two- to three-feet stems may be continually gathered all
the summer, and the plant is admirably suited to hot and dry
situations. The winter varieties include the Common Prickly,
Longstanding Winter, and Prickly Flanders. The seeds of
these are sown from July to September at frequent intervals,
thinning the seedlings put to quite one foot apart. During
severe frost protection must be given to these late sorts. The
summer Spinach must receive copious supplies of water or liquid
manure, and a mulch will assist in keeping down an inherent
tendency to run to seed. If Spinach seed is soaked in water
twelve hours previous to sowing, it will germinate more rapidly.
Care must be taken in gathering. Indiscriminate picking soon
ruins and exhausts the crop. Sufficient seed should be sown to
enable the leaves to be gathered in moderation to ensure supplies
for the table.

OR ACHE (Atriplex hortensis). — This is really a giant form of
Spinach, having stems, covered with large leaves, which rise to
a height of four or five feet. There are three kinds — Red,
White, and Green, the culture of all of which coincides with
that of Spinach.

SECTION X

SALADS AND HERBS

I HAVE grouped Salads and Herbs into one Section because
points of similarity occur in culture and use. In the first
case, they are all more or less of a " catch-crop " nature —
a crop which is " snatched " from the soil between the clearing
and sowing of main crops ; and in the second, there are a great
many Herbs proper that are or can be with advantage used
in salads. So far as Herbs are concerned, I intend to confine
my remarks principally to those Herbs which are of use either
as vegetables, salads, condiments, flavourings, and pickles.
There are others, which I do not enlarge upon, that have
medicinal value ; but they do not concern the kitchen-garden.
Herbs proper are used by the cook principally for seasoning and
garnishing. There are many others, however, that form most
excellent vegetable dishes, and others, again, that provide
some of the best salad ingredients. Thus three divisions can
be made, each calling for separate treatment to accord with
the end in view, and the uses to which they are to be put.
Besides these three attributes, there are two exceptional features
connected with Herbs that enhances their value — they are,
fragrance and ornament. The sweet scents of the old-fashioned
gardens seem to have flown with the past. We have scentless
Roses, Sweet Peas, and a multitude of gorgeous blossoms that
not only refuse to provide fragrance, but often emit evil odours ;
and if something is not done to counteract the pernicious influ-
ence which has been created by the love of the enormous and
gaudy, the gardens of the future will do no more than merely
please the eye. In this connection Herbs may well be brought
forward to take a prominent part in the remedying of the loss
of sweet savours in our gardens, both flower and kitchen ; for,
as I have said, fragrance is one of their most prominent attributes,

131

122 VEGECULTURE

after utility considerations. And the floral and decorative side
of Herbs will be readily seen. The plants, then, should be
cultivated with a five- fold object in view, which fact surely
indicates extraordinary usefulness !

PART I.— SALADS AND SALAD HERBS

BURNET (Poterium sanguisorba) . — The peculiar flavour of
the leaves of this plant, resembling that of the Cucumber, gives
it a value as a substitute for the latter where its flavour is
required and the real article unobtainable. The culture is
simple : Seeds are sown in spring or autumn in drills, either
in beds or as an edging. No attention is necessary, except to
prevent the plants producing flowers, this enabling the supply
of green leaves to increase and last longer. The latter are cut
with a knife as required. A hardy, almost wild plant, reaching
a height of from one to two feet.

CORN-SALAD (LAMB'S LETTUCE) (Valerianella olitoria).—
This European salad plant is a widely-distributed wildling,
enlisted into the service of the garden and salad-bowl. It forms
rosettes of Lettuce-like leaves, somewhat insipid in taste, useful
to mix with other leaves in salads. There are several varieties,
the Italian and Common being the best known. The seeds are
sown for successional crops from August to October, resulting
in a supply of plants until the following spring. They may be
sown on any soil and wherever a small space may become
vacant, but give better results in a rich medium. Little or no
attention is required, which is one of the chief attractions of the
Corn-Salad.

CRESS (Lepidium sativnw). — The common, well-known
Garden Cress was originally a native of Persia. It is an annual
plant of very rapid and prolific growth, usually and familiarly
associated with Mustard, or Rape, for summer salads, the seeds
of the latter two being sown a day or two later, when intended
to accompany the Cress to the table, as they germinate much
quicker. Cress and Mustard seeds germinate anywhere, in
fact, and under all sorts of circumstances. They are usually
sown very thickly in shallow boxes, in fine soil kept very moist,
and the leaves are cut when quite young and tender ; otherwise

SALADS AND HERBS 123

the plants run quickly to seed, and the flavour becomes hot and
unpleasant. Successional sowings every week or two can be
made, the seed germinating in twenty-four hours in moderate
heat ; indeed, the seed may be sprinkled upon a piece of wet
material, placed in a cooling oven overnight, and will be found
to have germinated in the morning ! Cress and Mustard Salads,
therefore, may be had at the will of the sower, and with a
minimum of trouble. The common Cress is too well known
to need description, but the Australian or Golden-leaved variety
is not so popular, although it deserves to be, with its larger
leaves and striking colour.

MEADOW CRESS (Cardamine pratensis) ("Lady's Smock"),
a British wildling of damp meadows ; AMERICAN, or BELLE
ISLE CRESS (Barbarea pr&cox) ; WINTER CRESS (Barbarea
vulgaris} ; PARA CRESS (Spilanthes oleracea) ; and BRAZIL CRESS
are excellent salad plants resembling the English WATERCRESS,
but growing on moist land instead of in water. Seeds of all of
them are sown in spring, and the simplest culture is demanded.
The America and Winter — two similar plants — are the most
useful of this group, and can be sown successionally all through
the year except the most severe winter months. The others
may be regarded in a medicinal light rather than that of diet.

WATERCRESS. — This popular salad may be grown anywhere
under sufficiently moist conditions ; in fact, if its additional
pungency is not objected to, the plants are easily and profitably
cultivated in any part of the garden, upon level soil, providing
they do not suffer from lack of water, which is the simple rule
attendant upon every other plant. But, of course, to grow
tender Watercress of mild flavour and good quality, water is a
necessity — and water in motion an ideal. Watercress is also
capable of development — witness the fact that rivers and
streams in these isles quickly become overrun, whilst those of
more favourable climates become completely choked by huge
bushes of Watercress rising to a considerable height ! Good
culture therefore pays. The methods of growing Watercress
are numerous — but all depending upon supplies of liquid —
natural* or artificial. The existence of natural water accommoda-
tion is fortunate and ensures success. The possessor of a ntn-
ning stream may secure abundant supplies of this fine salad by
planting roots in or upon the lower banks of the stream, so as
to be washed or covered by the water. A sunken bed may
be made, into and over which water from a neighbouring
stream, pond, or pipe-stand may be continuously or frequently

124 VEGECULTURE

conveyed. A fairly deep, narrow trench, kept cool and moist by
periodical flooding, is useful for the purpose, especially if it be
dug on sloping ground or constructed with a gentle incline,
because water poured into the top end will flow along the whole
trench and saturate it thoroughly ; an occasional pailful, for
instance, will keep a small trench — of sufficient size to ensure a
fair supply of leaves — in splendid hydrometrical condition.
Then there remains the greenhouse or hothouse in which to
grow supplies for the winter. Here the Cress may be grown in
boxes, borders, or pans, placed over hot-water pipes or in warm
corners, pieces of the stem or root being dibbled into fine soil
an inch or two apart, the whole being well supplied with moisture.
Baskets or pots containing cuttings may also be dropped into
both indoor and outdoor ornamental ponds or the water-butt.
In fact, Watercress grows with such ease, and rarely refuses to
flourish under the most crude conditions wherein moisture
predominates, that means of culture may readily be devised by
the grower to suit his own circumstances and needs. Water-
cress is usually propagated and increased by cuttings of stem or
root, or the young tops treated as an ordinary cutting, and
struck in pots or boxes. Any portion of the plant, indeed,
placed in water for a while will begin to emit white rootlets,
and in that state may be planted where desired to grow. One
of the simplest ways to ensure constant supplies of fresh Water-
cress is to sow seeds in pots. Keep these under glass, and the
compost very moist, until seedlings appear, then put the pots
in wire baskets, and sling them, an inch deep from the base,
in the rain-water-butt. Several baskets can be accommodated
in a large butt, and when the last basket has been stripped, the
first to be cleared will probably have a second lot of leaves ready
for use, for the old roots will send up new leaves in a few weeks'
time. If seeds are sown every week or fortnight a successional
supply may be kept up even in a small vessel of water. Wire
baskets, or the flat-backed wire pockets, can be fastened to nails
against the inner sides of the butt, if preferred. It is also easy
to grow the Watercress in this style in pottery wall pockets.
One inch deep in the water will ensure that the soil of the pots
is kept evenly moist, but in dry, dusty weather the baskets
should be dipped occasionally, or an overhead watering given.

DANDELION (Leontodon taraxacum}. — This is so well known
as a weed and a nuisance that attempt at description would be
ludicrous. But, nevertheless, the cultivated plant is a far

SALADS AND HERBS 125

different subject, producing a crop of splendid salading leaves,
which may be blanched by the same means as are employed with
Endive. A few plants will prove very useful in the kitchen-
garden. The root has a great medicinal value. The simplest
culture may be afforded with good results.

ENDIVE (Cichorimn endivia). — After the summer Lettuces
have been used, a good batch of Endive is much appreciated,
and it may be secured with but little trouble, if reasonable
care and attention is given, together with a fair observance of
the rules governing its culture. The leaves must be blanched
as white as possible to bring them into an edible condition ;
this is accomplished by tying the leaves together over the heart
of the plants, or by placing a board or piece of slate over them,
or covering with rough litter, straw, or hay. The plant is a
native of the East Indies, and of somewhat tender constitution.
Endive is often spoilt by neglect or wrong treatment. A well-
worked border, made moderately rich with rotted manure,
should be provided for the seed-bed. Sow the seeds thinly,
because the seedlings have a spreading habit, and when in a
fit condition to transplant a seedling covers a space quite two
inches square. Overcrowded seedlings cannot gain strength.
This is one cause of the numerous plants one sees that possess
large outer leaves and such poor hearts. Every plant should
be strong and compact from the seedling stage onwards. Trans-
plant the young plants in their permanent positions after well
watering the soil. In doing this, lift them by means of a garden
fork, and do not forcibly pull them up, and so needlessly mutilate
the roots. Endive is valued most when Lettuces are unobtain-
able, and every plant must be grown to withstand adverse
weather. In the case of heavy, retentive soils, it is a good plan
to form low, rounded ridges fifteen inches apart. On these
ridges plant the Endive at the same distance apart, when the
cultivator will find that the outer leaves will rest on the gentle
incline, the centre will heart freely, and practically every leaf
will remain sound, even if long spells of rainy weather and
occasional frosts are experienced. Firm soil is essential to
success, and where it is stiff and lumpy, the cultivator should,
before putting any plants in it, thoroughly break it up. All
this tends to the production of big hearts that are crisp and
blanched, with few outer, useless leaves. In low-lying districts,
where the soil is of a clayey, retentive nature, the cultivator
may have some difficulty in preventing loss through decay when

126 VEGECULTURE

the plants are large enough for blanching, owing to the excessive
moisture. It is a good plan, in such cases, carefully to scrape
away a small quantity of soil from the surface immediately
underneath the basal leaves. This can be done without dis-
turbing or damaging the plant in the least, and it will certainly
remain drier and blanch better. Blanching forward plants in
cool frames finds favour with many cultivators, but they often
make the mistake of packing the plants too closely together,
with the result that many of them decay. The remedy consists
in removing some of the useless outer leaves, and disposing the
plants more thinly. There are several distinct variations in
cultivation, the best known being the ordinary Curled Endive, of
two kinds suited to summer and winter use ; the Moss-curled,
which is very decorative ; and the Broad-leaved or Batavian, a
splendid winter salad, particularly tender and crisp, and
extensively cultivated. The flowers of the Endive, when
allowed to form, are well worthy of a place in the flower-
border. They arc really pretty, of a blue colour, and very
effective.

THE LETTUCE (Lactuca saliva) .—This salad plant, a native
of India, is so well known to everyone as to render any attempt
at description superfluous. It may be pointed out, however,
that few people ever grow the Lettuce to perfection, on account
of its very pronounced tendency to run to seed instead of
hearting. Seeds are sown, for an early supply, in frames, at
the beginning of the year ; or there are varieties which may
be sown during the previous autumn to stand through the
winter. In either case, early supplies are ensured. The
autumn-sown seedlings are transplanted into their permanent
quarters before the winter arrives, while those sown early in
the year may either be pricked out in other frames or under
cloches, or in the open wherever a sheltered spot is available.
The main sowings are successional, and may be performed from
February (upon a spent hotbed or in an open frame) to July.
The mistake often made with Lettuces is that the seedlings are
allowed to stay too long crowded together in seed-beds ; it is
far better to transplant an inch or two apart in nursery-beds of
good soil as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle,
and from there removed to the position they are to occupy
as adult plants. The seeds may also be sown very thinly in
the place where they are to remain, and the plants thinned
gradually to between six and twelve inches apart ; all the

SALADS AND HERBS 127

thinned-out plants may be transplanted elsewhere. The
Lettuce should be treated as a " catch "-crop, or side-issue,
and only a few seeds sown at a time — say, for a small garden,
once a month. The soil must be rich, friable, and moist, having
been previously well dug and manured. The main point of
culture is rapid growth, which must be encouraged in every
possible way- — by cultivating the soil with the hoe, the pro-
vision of copious supplies of water and liquid manure in dry
weather, and a supplementary mulch of manure or litter during
the hottest portion of the year.

Lettuces can be safely wintered, even where no pits or cold
frames are at command for winter protection. The procedure
is : Mark out a bed twelve feet wide, running east and west ;
throw up the soil in the form of a ridge, mixing with it a good
dressing of well rotted manure. Make the sides of the ridge
firm and even ; then plant on the south side strong, sturdy
plants of the Cabbage varieties, six inches apart, and mulch
the surface of the soil between them with pa tly decayed
manure. Should the frost be very severe, a little dry bracken
or stable litter may be lightly spread over them in the evening,
but removed whenever the weather is favourable. They will
thus pass safely through very severe seasons, and be ready for use
nearly as early as those that have had the protection of a frame.

There are two classes of Lettuce — the Cos, a tall, upright
plant, the leaves of which require to be folded around the heart
and tied in that position with bass, in order to encourage heart
formation, and blanching, and to prevent premature running to
seed ; and the Cabbage, or dwarf, type, which forms compact
hearts without assistance. These, again, are divided into
varieties for summer and autumn use. Besides the standard
varieties, every seedsman has a speciality of his own — a fact
which applies also to the dwarf kinds. These latter are also
legion. The smallest are the best for quick growth. For
winter use, the following varieties are useful : Cos — C event
Garden White and Brown, Hardy Winter White, Brown Bath.
Cabbage — Hardy Green Hammersmith. Those gardeners who
attempt any form of French gardening, the cloche system, or
early forcing in glasshouses, should obtain a supply of seeds of
the Parisian Cloche Lettuces, or Harbinger Forcing ; while
many of those previously mentioned will lend themselves
admirably to these systems.

Lettuces may be boiled and eaten as Spinach, if desired ;
and the tenderest stalks of the plant, when running to seed,

128 VEGECULTURE

are cut into lengths, peeled, and put into jar; with syrup, and
thus candied form a delicious confection styled " Mock Angelica," i
on account of the resemblance to Angelica similarly treated.

MUSTARD (Sinapsis alba). — A plant of rapid growth asso-
ciated with Cress as one of our best small salads. The seeds
should be sown a day or two later than those of the Cress they
axe to accompany (see Cress for culture). Rape seed is often
substituted for Mustard seed ; there is not much difference in
any respect. In China, two other kinds of Mustard are grown :
one, a tuberous-rooted vegetable, with Radish-like roots of
good size ; and the other a five-foot plant, possessing large
leaves, fifteen inches long, which are used as Spinach. The
flavour of both Mustards, it is averred, are mild and most agree-
able. The leafy kind is a subject for autumn sowing, and its
leaves are used as a winter vegetable.

NASTURTIUM ( Tropaolu m) .— The leaves of this Indian
Cress are not used nearly as much as they should be, in salads,
during the summer, for which purpose they are most excellent.
The flower-buds and seeds, too, form a very agreeable pickle.
The utility side of the Nasturtium is undoubtedly very much
neglected in Britain, the plant being grown chiefly for its floral
attractiveness, and with much reason. There are both tall
and dwarf, single and double strains among the common Nas-
turtiums, and a wide range of colour continually being added
to ; while the tuberous-rooted Nasturtium and Tropaolum
speciosum, a refined climber, are excellent for hiding ugly spots
in the kitchen-garden.

PURSLANE (Portulaca oleracea). — There are two varieties
of this Salad-herb, which differ only in the way of colour of
the leaves — the Green and the Golden. The plants are of
annual duration, grown from seed sown in drills in light soil,
successionally, from May to August ; and the leaves and stems,
used as salads or cooked as a vegetable, may be gathered about
two months from the date of sowing. Sowings may also be
made on hotbeds or in frames to secure a winter and early
spring supply. If plenty of water is given them, the plants
will supply sufficient material for two or three gatherings.

WINTER PURSLANE (Claytonia per foliata}.- -This is an
entirely different style of plant, of peculiar appearance ; but its
culture and uses are identical with that of the ordinary Purslane.

SALADS AND HERBS 129

THE RADISH (Raphanus sativus). — There is scarcely any
food-plant that is more widely known and used than the Radish,
and hardly one so badly treated ! I suggest that the ease of
culture that characterizes the Radish is responsible for the
latter fact, as this induces carelessness on the part of the gar-
dener. Radishes which are badly-grown and strong are unfit
for human food ; on the other hand, a quickly-grown, mild,
crisp, " watery " Radish is a luxury, not too often met with !
The essential conditions governing the production of the latter
kind are — speed of growth, a moist soil, and thin sowing;
the neglect of the latter often accounts for failure to produce
palatable roots. Size, as a rule, means deterioration ; although,
under good culture, large roots can be obtained of excellent
quality. Radishes form one of the most accommodating of
catch-crops. A few seeds dropped along or between the drills
of Carrots, Beet, Onions, etc., will germinate and produce
eatable bulbs before the main-crop plants require their final
thinning. A few seeds also scattered on the surface after
Potato sets have been planted will be ready for use by the
time the ground needs to be disturbed to cultivate the Potatoes ;
and the same operation can be performed upon heaps of leaves,
rubbish, manure, etc., that may lie awaiting future use ; in
fact, the smallest vacant space may be utilized. A shallow bed
of fermenting material, upon which is placed a six-inch layer of
rich, fine soil, makes an ideal Radish bed for early spring use ;
as also does a mild, or even a spent, hotbed upon which a frame
is placed. A deep, rich, friable soil is much appreciated by the
Radish ; and a cool site in summer is a necessity, when the
bed should be made firm to induce bulb-formation. The winter
kinds require an open site, plenty of air, light and moisture,
and severe thinning-out. In every case, quick growth should
be the main object of the gardener. Sowings of the earliest
and tenderest varieties are made, under glass protection, from
January onwards until March or April, when the succession is
maintained by the outdoor sowings. But the sowing of summer
Radishes is usually suspended by the end of August or beginning
of September, and that of the winter varieties substituted.
The golden rule to be observed by growers is a small successional
sowing every three weeks, the wide scattering of the seeds,
and every incentive to quick growth afforded the plants. Leaf-
mould is a fine medium for the early sorts.

The varieties are very numerous. They may be culturally
divided into three groups — (i) Early or Forcing Radishes
10

130 VEGECULTURE

(2) Summer Radishes ; (3) Autumn or Winter Radishes. The
first group include such sorts as Wood's Frame and French
Breakfast. The latter variety is greatly to be recommended
also for the summer sowings, in which the Turnip varieties,
white, scarlet, or mixed, will figure largely ; Golden Dresden is
a good novelty with a yellow skin. The long-rooted kinds,
which should be given a good, deep, free-working soil, are treated
more as a main- than a catch-crop. Those varieties suited to
winter culture are : China Rose, Black Spanish, and Cali-
fornian or Mammoth White. These are, as a rule, of much
larger size than the earlier sorts.

It should be borne in mind that, although the main portion
of a Radish for edible purposes is the root, the young leaves,
before they become rough, are excellent in salads and very
healthful, and the seed-pods, if gathered whilst very young,
make an excellent pickle, salted until tender, and then bottled
in hot vinegar.

RAMPION (Campanula ranunculus) .—Its generic name —
Campanula — proclaims the floral value of this plant, apart
from its utility in the salad-bowl. It bears, when allowed to
run to seed, sheaves of good-sized bell-flowers, of a fine blue
shade, and any spare plants may be used as biennials in the
flower garden. But it has even more useful points, for the whole
plant — leaves and root — make an excellent addition to salad
ingredients. The roots may be described as resembling a white
long Radish, and they are used in similar fashion. Thus we
have in Rampion a plant of the greatest usefulness. Seeds are
sown in the open ground in May, after the manner of biennial
flowering plants. The seeds, however, are extremely fine, and
care must be taken not to sow thickly ; at any rate, thinning
must take place early. Copious supplies of water are essential
to prevent the plants running to seed as the summer advances.
As a safeguard against this latter contingency, one or two
further sowings should be made, the last one in June. The
leaves may be used as required ; but it is as well to allow a
good percentage of plants to continue their growth unmolested,
in order to secure good roots. These will be ready to lift in
October, and may be stored in sand if not wanted for immediate
use. Good, well-worked, rich soil will give fine results.

SORREL (Rumex). — There are several kinds of Sorrel, but
the most useful are those of a broad-leaved nature. There can

SALADS AND HERBS 131

be no better plant used in salads where an acid flavour is
appreciated ; and the leaves may be boiled for table use after
the manner of Spinach. From seeds, sown preferabty in spring,
leaves large enough for use will be produced in eight or ten weeks.
A deep, moist, friable soil i^ the best medium, and the plants
should be thinned to quite a foot apart. A plantation of Sorrel
will last for several years, if care is exercised in gathering,
which should be performed by cutting a few outside leaves
from each plant. By growing plants in frames, a supply of
tender, mild Sorrel leaves may be had all the year round. No
heat is required, the protection of the glass alone inducing
more luxuriant growth. Plenty of moisture is necessary in
hot weather. A leaf or two, shredded, and judiciously mixed
with other salad ingredients, imparts a very pleasant and slightly
acid flavour to what might otherwise be an insipid salad.

WOOD-SORREL (Oxalis acctosella). — A plant with leaves
similar in taste to ordinary Sorrel, and found growing wild in
our native woods and shady places, Wood-Sorrel may be grown
with advantage in a cool, moist, shaded portion of the kitchen-
garden, which perhaps might otherwise be unoccupied and
wasted ; but there is also a cultivated form which produces
edible bulbous roots, of indifferent insipid flavour, resembling
in shape very small Turnips or Radishes. The leaves are of
better repute, and are very useful. Seeds or bulbs may be
planted to secure fresh plants.

HERB PATIENCE (Rimiex patientia) .-— Herb Patience, or
Patience Dock is a little-known plant resembling Sorrel in form
of leaf, having the same uses and culture, but reaching a height
of four to six feet. One plant would suffice for any garden.
The flavour is less acid than Sorrel.

PART II.— VEGETABLE-HERBS

GOOD KING HENRY (Chenopodium bonus- Henrtcus).—
Good King Henry, Mercury, or Perennial Goosefoot, is a
valuable vegetable-herb which ought to receive greater atten-
tion from British gardeners. Seeds are cheap, and the plants
are very hardy and accommodating, continuing in good growth
for a number of years, and requiring the use of the hoe only
in the way of cultivation. Seeds are sown in the spring, and

132 VEGECULTURE

the seedlings are pricked out in rich nursery-beds to strengthen,
before being finally planted out in permanent situations. There
are two uses attached to this plant — as Spinach, by gathering
the leaves ; and, preferably, as Asparagus, by cultivating the
young shoots. For this latter purpose, a well-dug, heavily-
manured bed should be made in a warm comer or border, which
will not need to be disturbed thereafter. The soil cannot be
too deep, rich, or friable. The plants for this purpose may be
raised the previous autumn, and planted as early in the spring
as possible, one foot apart. In April or May, an abundant
crop of young, tender shoots will be produced, and, if well
grown, will be about the size of Asparagus, and may be cut
after the manner of that vegetable. To prepare these shoots
for cooking, peel off the outer, tough skin, stripping it from the
bottom of the stem upwards ; then, after washing, boiling
until tender should be the rule. This vegetable may be served
simply as Asparagus is served, or upon toast, or in butter, gravy,
etc., as desired. Mercury may be obtained quite a fortnight
in advance of the first Asparagus cuttings, and for several weeks
after that crop has become exhausted.

FINNOCHIO (Fceniculum duke). — The Florence Fennel is an
Italian subject of merit, worthy of the attention of every gar-
dener on the look-out for something really good as an addition
to the ordinary run of vegetables. It is a favourite dish on the
Continent, but almost unknown in Britain. In taste and culture
there is a certain resemblance to Celery, but the flavour is much
more delicate than Celery, and the culture differs in the absence
of the trench, although the plants have to be earthed up. Seeds
are sown — successionally every month if desired — from the
end of March until August. The plants are characterized by
quick growth, and soon come into use — the sowings of March
producing plants ready for use in July ; and those of August
about November or December — the latest crop being given
some protection against frost. The seeds must be sown thinly,
and the seedlings thinned out to quite six inches apart. The
whole plant rarely exceeds two feet in height. The leaf-stems
are very broad, and as they grow become swollen and rounded
into a bulb-like formation of a light green colour. These stems
are earthed up, like Celery, about three weeks before they arc
required for use. They attain, under good culture, the size
of the fist, and possess very firm, white, sweet flesh, when boiled.
Fiimochio forms a very delicate and appetizing dish. The

SALADS AND HERBS 133

manner of growth is very peculiar, the swollen stems over-
lapping one another in fish-scale fashion. The culture consists
mainly in vigorously stirring the soil around the plants, and a
plentiful supply of water. Seeds are offered by several seeds-
men in this county.

EDIBLE BURDOCK or GOBO (Lappa edulia), a native of
Japan ; EVENING PRIMROSE ((Enothera biennis) (see page
44) , a very well-known plant of the flower-border ; and
GOLDEN THISTLE (Scolymus hispanicus), are three long-rooted
herb-plants that are used as vegetables. The three root-
formations are very similar, requiring nearly identical culture ;
but before they can be seriously reckoned among the more
useful vegetables, the roots will have to be greatly improved
by cultivation. These plants are not to be recommended,
except for experiment and improvement by culture.

SKIRRET. — (See Tuberous-rooted Vegetables Section, pages
60, 61). CAPSICUM.— (See Vegetable- Fruits Section, page 102).

PART III.— FLAVOURING HERBS

ANGELICA (Angelica officinalis). — This herb, an Alpine
subject, is a perennial, having four-feet stems with three-feet
leaves and umbels of small flowers. The plant requires a rich,
moist, deep soil. Seed is sown in spring in nursery-beds, and
the seedlings are planted out later on. The following year
the leaves may be cut and used ; and the third year, when
the plants run to seed, they are removed from the ground and
a fresh plantation made. Both the stems and leaves are pre-
served in sugar, and make an excellent confection ; while
the root is used in medicine and the seeds in the manufacture
of certain liqueurs. A most useful plant for any garden !

ANISE (Pimpinella anisum). — Found in a wild state in Greece,
Egypt, and parts of Asia Minor, Anise is well-known for its
perfumed and delicately-flavoured seeds, used in sweet con-
fections and as a medicine. Resembling Celery in its foliage
at the base of the fifteen-inch stem, the upper leaves being
more finely divided, Anise grows rapidly from seed sown in
April, and is of most easy culture. A well-drained, warm soiJ

134 VEGECULTURE

suits it best ; but the plant is very accommodating, and will
thrive in most gardens. It is of annual duration, and the
seeds are the only part used.

BALM (Melissa officinalis). — This is a perennial herb, growing
eighteen inches high, branching and spreading in habit, with
very green leaves, which are aromatic, and used principally
in the manufacture of scents and liqueurs, as well as for season-
ing certain dishes. Although seeds are sown, Balm is best
propagated by dividing the clumps — almost at any time of
the year except in very hot weather. This herb will grow in
any position, but, coming to us from Southern Europe, it
naturally prefers a warm border. Its culture is almost negligible.

BASIL (Ocymum basilicum). — A member of the same family
as Balm (the Labiatae), this herb forms an ornamental little
bush about one foot in height, producing a wealth of neat spikes
of white flowers. The best method of culture is to sow the
seeds on a hotbed in March or April, under glass, and plant out
the seedlings in May ; or previous to this the seedlings may be
pricked out into pots or boxes, and grown on for a time, being
afterwards planted out in June. The plants are very tender,
being natives of a warm climate. Plenty of room should be
given, as well as a light, rich soil, and moisture should be
liberally provided. Although the stems are cut down and
dried in the usual manner, green shoots may be encouraged by
hoeing around the plants after gathering the stems, until the
winter approaches, when some of these shoots may be lifted,
planted in pots or boxes, and placed under glass to furnish a
winter supply. This is a very aromatic plant, and the leaves
are used in perfumes and seasonings. There are two distinct
variations — termed respectively Sweet and Bush Basil. The
flowers are worthy of a place amongst other occupants of the
floral quarters, and the plants make an agreeable addition to
our garden perfumes.

BORAGE (Borago officinalis). — As a floral subject, Borage is
not to be despised, its splendid spikes of bright blue flowers
being very showy. It is native to the shores of the Mediter-
ranean, grows about one foot high, and has become naturalized
in England as a wildling. No particular culture is required,
and it will grow anywhere and on any waste spot. Seeds are
sown at any time from spring to autumn, and the plant grows

SALADS AND HERBS 185

quickly and soon blossoms. It prefers a chalky soil. The
plant is used for making claret-cup and other cordials ; but its
value in the garden probably centres in its flowers.

CARRAWAY (Carum carvi). — The seeds of this plant are too
well known to require description, but it may not be generally
known that the root, which grows to a good size, is edible, and
of a Carrot flavour, and that the leaves and young shoots are
eaten In salads in some countries. The plant is a biennial,
one foot or more high, in many places growing as a wildling,
and cultivated by sowing seeds in May or June, and the plants
thinned out. Growth and maturity are very quick, and in
July and August the seeds are ready for gathering.

CLARY (Salvia sclarea). — Here again is an ornamental
gem cropping up from the commonplace. The proper leaves
at the base of the plant are large and wrinkled like a Savoy
Cabbage, but the tall flower-spike is clothed with smaller leaflets,
which at the extreme tip is beautifully coloured either white,
purple, or red, imparting a striking effect, and having the appear-
ance of highly-coloured flowers. The blossoms, however, are
very small indeed. These plants are now much used in floral
bedding schemes. The utility side consists in the leaves being
used for seasoning. The seeds are sown in drills and the plants
thinned, or in a seed-bed, and the seedlings pricked out, in May.
Hoeing and watering are two essentials of culture, until, in
August, the leaves may be gathered for use, with a continuous
supply far into the following year. Although perennials, the
plants should be treated as biennials, either for flowering or
kitchen uses.

CORIANDER (Coriandmm sativum). — A two-foot, branching
annual herb of weedy appearance, Coriander supplies a useful
article of commerce in its seeds, which are used in culinary
preparations and confectionery. A warm site with a light
soil is preferred by this plant, whereof seed is sown in spring
or autumn. The culture is of the simplest nature.

CUMMIN (Cuminum cyminum). — The seeds of this herb,
which are of a pungent, aromatic flavour, are used for flavouring
soups, pickles, etc. The plant is dwarf (four inches in height),
and the seeds, sown in May, produce plants which mature and

136 VEGECULTURE

ripen seeds in their turn in July, so that a short growing season,
with little or no attention, characterizes this useful subject.

DILL (Anethum graveolens). — This herb affords very little
use to the average gardener, its qualities being medicinal rather
than culinary. Its appearance has a resemblance to Fennel,
and the taste of its leaves favours both Fennel and Mint, and
is not very attractive. The seeds are chiefly used, sometimes
in pickles. A warm, well-drained soil and ordinary culture are
its requirements. It is an annual, and therefore propagated by
seeds sown in April.

HYSSOP (Hyssopus officinalis). — This plant is not in very
great demand, although in the kitchen-garden its value is
decidedly ornamental, as it forms a close undershrub, suitable
for an edging, bearing pretty flowers of blue, pink, or white
colour. Hyssop is very suited to chalky soils and warm
positions. Seeds may be sown in April ; but the usual method
of propagation is by division. The whole plant is intensely
pungent and bitter, and the tenderer parts, such as the tips of
the branches, can be made into a hot, but bitter, condiment.

LAVENDER and ROSEMARY may be mentioned here in a
recommendation for use as fragrant and decorative shrubs
wherever their presence can be accommodated ; and they take
a place in this book in support of my plea for a recrudescence
of our old-fashioned scented plants. Rosemary leaves are
often used for seasoning. Both shrubs delight in a calcareous
soil, and require nothing in the way of cultivation that is worth
the mention.

MARIGOLD (Calendula officinalis). — Marigold is common
enough to almost justify its description as a weed. The Pot
Marigold, however, is cultivated on account of its use in
many culinary preparations, and for colouring butter, etc. It
is an annual, grown from seeds sown in March, and its cultural
requirements are practically nil.

MARJORAM (Origanum). — There are two sections of this
splendid herb, both being of the greatest utility in cookery.
The perennial kind is of most easy culture and will grow any-
where. It is best grown, however, in clumps amongst similar
subjects, allowing each plant plenty of room. The flowers and

SALADS AND HERBS 137

scent are both attractive, although the former are small. Grown
as edgings, from seed, and kept well clipped, the plants will
last for years. The leaves, shoots, and flowers possess excellent
seasoning properties when dried, and, with Thyme, forms the
basis of dried mixed herbs of commerce. The so-called annual
Marjoram is really perennial, but is usually propagated by
yearly sowings in March or April. It is a fast-growing plant,
and the leaves and shoots are ready for use as early as May.
A pretty, bushy, fragrant plant, of identical utility as the
perennial Marjoram.

MINT. — Mint is a herb so well known and so universally used
that description is entirely unnecessary. Its culture consists
in forming a bed of good loose soil into which its running root-
stems may travel at will ; and it is the best plan to give Mint
a site all to itself, for its encroaching proclivities are great and
persistent; and the bed, also, should be preferably isolated.
If the shoots are unused by the time autumn arrives, they must
be cut off close to the ground — and, incidentally, dried and
preserved for future use — and a layer of rich soil or compost
spread over the roots. For supplies of Mint during the winter
months, it is usual to rely on leaves gathered during the autumn
and dried by suspension in a warm room ; but dried Mint is
but a poor substitute for freshly-picked sprays, and these may be
obtained in the coldest weather with but little trouble. To
force Mint, simply select a few strong roots several inches long,
laying these about an inch apart in shallow boxes rilled with
finely sifted garden soil. The roots are then covered with an
inch of fine soil, a good watering given, and the boxes placed
beneath the greenhouse stage. Keep the soil constantly moist,
and directly the little green shoots appear place the box in a
light, warm position, such as a shelf near the glass in a green-
house or a window in a warm room. In the event of the supply
being greater than the demand, the boxes need not remain in
the greenhouse, but will be quite safe in a cold frame or light
shed where frost is not likely to enter. On the other hand, if
the shoots are cut, tied in small bunches, and placed in recep-
tacles containing sufficient water just to reach the tips of the
stems, they will keep fresh, and even continue to grow.

RUE (Ruta graveolens). — I fail to see the use of this herb from
a kitchen-garden point of view, although it is generally regarded
as a seasoning agent ; but this attribute belongs to old-time

138 VEGECULTURE

cookery. The leaves of Rue possess a very strong, most dis-
agreeable odour, and a bitter, pungent flavour. Still, there
may be flavouring concoctions whereof Rue is an ingredient,
and wherein its disagreeable qualities are efficiently disguised.
However that may be, those who wish to grow this plant should
sow seed in spring, or plant divided tufts in good, well-drained
soil. No particular care is needed beyond cutting the stems
down every couple of years, to promote fresh growth ; and the
plant will continue to flourish for many years. Rue forms a
bush about two feet high.

SAGE (Salvia officinal is). —Every one knows Sage ; very few
gardens are without a plant or two of this splendid seasoning
herb ; therefore a few remarks upon its culture — (which is of
the simplest description) — will suffice. Sage is very hardy in
this country, despite the fact that it is native to Southern
Europe ; and its principal requirement is a well-drained, dry
position, and a certain amount of lime in the soil — a chalky soil
suits it admirably. The plant may be used for edgings, if kept
clipped close.

SAVORY (Salureia). — There are two kinds of this valuable
seasoning herb—Summer Savory (Satureia hortensis) ; Winter
Savory (Satureia montana}. The first, an annual plant, not
quite one foot high, is grown from seeds sown in April and
May, or in March on a hotbed, in good, warm, light soil. In
June the tips of the steins are gathered for use, after which
branches are produced, and a continuous supply of leaves and
shoots are forthcoming for several weeks. The winter kind is
a perennial, low-growing, spreading plant, of which seeds are
sown in spring or end of summer in drills. It makes a good
edging. A well-drained soil is necessary, as stagnant moisture
is fatal in hard weather. No attention is required beyond
cutting down the stems every spring to within four inches of
the ground. Of both varieties the leaves and young shoots
are used for flavouring purposes.

TANSY (Tanacetum vulgare). — The leaves of this herb are
useful as seasoning material. The plant grows about three feet
high, is a perennial, and requires no culture whatever — any odd
corner may be allotted to it. Seeds and division are the means
of propagation, and the flower-heads should not be allowed to
.orm, thus prolonging and increasing the supply of leaves,

SALADS AND HERBS 139

TARRAGON (Artemisia dracunculns). — Tarragon is an aro-
matic herb employed chiefly for making Tarragon vinegar,
and succeeds in almost any soil. Plants should be increased or
propagated by division or from cuttings, as those raised from
seed are not always aromatic. This may be accounted for by
the fact that there is a plant sometimes grown which greatly
resembles the Tarragon, but it is quite destitute of the real
Tarragon flavour. To obtain healthy young shoots of this
herb, a fresh bed should be made yearly large enough to meet
the demand. It is readily multiplied by division, or by pulling
up young pieces when about three inches to four inches high
and dibbling them about four inches apart in well-prepared
beds. Water the soil well if the weather proves dry. April
is the best period of the year for this work. If desired, green
leaves can be obtained during the winter by lifting and potting
roots in the autumn and placing them in gentle heat. Tarragon
is a native of Siberia, and is therefore quite hardy.

THYME (Thymus vulgaris). — No better edging plant than
Thyme can be used for the 'kitchen-garden. Its uses, too, as
a seasoning material, are excellent, the flavour being one that
suits most forms of cookery in which meat takes a place, and
is used generally and freely in stuffings and forcemeats. As a
dried herb it is very useful. A well-drained soil in a warm
position suits Thyme best, although its accommodating qualities
are very good in other positions and soils. It may be propagated
by seeds, cuttings, or division of roots. Seeds form the best
method of the three, and these should be sown in April, either
in the permanent location (thinned to four inches or more
apart) ; or in seed-beds, and thereafter transplanted. When
used as an edging, Thyme should be renewed every three years,
although it may not appear necessary Lemon Thyme (Thymus
citriodorus) is a very agreeable herb, both in cookery and in the
garden, for its delicate " lemon " scent and flavour is most
pleasant.

PART IV.— GARNISHING AND DECORATIVE HERBS

CHERVIL (Scandix cerejolium}. — This herb is a native of
Southern Europe, and possesses useful, ornamental, and aro-
matic properties, resembling Parsley to a large extent, and
forming an excellent substitute for the latter. The leaves are

140 VEGECULTURE

ready for cutting about six or eight weeks after seed-sowing.
The latter operation may be performed almost at any time
of the year during fair weather, in an open situation, except in
the hottest parts of the summer, when a somewhat shaded
position will be found more convenient. The plants are of
annual duration only, and require yearly renewal by seed-
sowing. Of course, it is useless to attempt to place Chervil
on a level with Parsley, although, for garnishing purposes, and
where, lightness is necessary, it becomes an excellent substitute
for that somewhat heavier decoration. Mixed with salad
ingredients — judiciously — the leaves impart a unique flavour
by their aromatic properties ; and they can be used to flavour
other dishes also. This sums up its chief attributes. A few
seeds should certainly be sown annually in every garden.

But there is a variety of Chervil (Chcerophyllum bulbosum)
which has resolved itself into a really useful vegetable, by the
thickening of its roots, after the manner of a short Carrot.
The flesh of these roots is sweet, floury, and aromatic, and they
possess excellent keeping qualities. That sounds well, but the
roots taste even better. In appearance, Turnip-rooted Chervil
looks like a yellowish Shorthorn Carrot. But its culture is
peculiar. Seeds may be sown in the autumn, as soon as they
are ripe, but they do not germinate until the following spring !
The soil must be well-worked and manured, and thoroughly
drained, and pressed well upon the seeds, which are only
slightly covered. Sowing may be deferred till the spring, if
desired, but the seeds, in such case, are recommended to be kept
in sand, otherwise they take a whole year to germinate ! At
any rate, the seeds undoubtedly lose their vitality very rapidly,
and are best sown when fresh.

When up, the seedlings only require weeding, watering, and
thinning. In July, the leaves begin to wither — a sign of the
maturing of the roots, which are ready for use when the foliage
is quite dead. The roots, however, are frost-proof, and may be
left in the ground till required ; in fact, the flavour and con-
sistency is much improved by the delayed harvesting. They
are boiled after the manner of Parsnips.

The Prescott variety, from Siberia, is a useful sort, with larger
but coarser roots ; but it is very prone to run to seed, and must
be sown no earlier than end of July.

Turnip-rooted Chervil, together with Turnip-rooted Parsley,
form a couple of excellent vegetables, possessing the aromatic
flavourings of their respective parent plants ; and they will

SALADS AND HERBS 141

be welcomed by those desiring useful additions to the vegetable
quarters.

CHIVES. — (See Onion Section, page 94).

FENNEL (Fceniculum officinale). — The ordinary garden Fennel
is a five-foot perennial, with Asparagus-like foliage, used for
garnishing fish. The seeds are used in the manufacture of
liqueurs. It is an ornamental plant for the border where a
light-foliage effect is required at a good height, or any odd
corner in the kitchen-garden that can accommodate tall plants.
The best method of propagation is by sowing seeds in the autumn,
which brings the plants into use in the following spring and
summer, Little or no attention is required beyond the most
ordinary cultivation.

PARSLEY (Apium petroselinum}. — Apart from its culinary
and garnishing value, Parsley has many good points which
should commend it particularly to the town gardener, for it
becomes a decorative asset even where few things really thrive.
Many people sow much more seed than they can ever hope to
accommodate plants. This, together with neglect of early
thinning, accounts for the plants running to seed early in the
season. Parsley should have a very rich soil. Instead of sowing
the seed indiscriminately, draw shallow drills and drop a few
seeds at intervals of six inches. Cover the seed slightly with
fine soil, and when the seedlings show a few true leaves, remove
all but one strong plant of each group. Treated thus, with a
liberal supply of water should an excessively dry period follow
the germination, it will not be long before the leaves touch each
other. The adaptability of Parsley for providing a cheap and
ornamental edging to the garden walk should not be overlooked,
for even though the strongest-growing leaves may encroach a
little on the walk, these may be periodically cut back. In
showery weather, the whole row may be cut nearly to the
ground level, and in a very short time an abundance of new
leaves will spring up and take their place. Parsley is a native
of Sardinia. There are a few forms, chiefly based on the appear-
ance of the leaves, such as the Common or Plain-leaved, Double
Curled, the Moss-curled, and the Fern-leaved. There is also
a distinct variety which produces an excellent edible root.

To obtain a supply of Parsley during the winter and the early
part of the next summer, when older plants will be running to

142 VEGECULTURE

seed, an early autumn sowing — which will often stand through
the winter when older plants fail — should be made, about the
beginning of August, for preference. If possible, sow the seed
where some little winter protection can be given if necessary.
Healthy seedlings of last year's sowing, moreover, or the earliest
of this spring's crop, may also be potted in -seven-inch to nine-
inch pots, placing four to six plants in each and near to the
outsides. Ordinary soil will answer the purpose. Keep the
pots in a shady position until the plants have formed new roots,
after which place them in as open a situation as possible. If
the pots are a little more than three-parts plunged, the water
supply can be regulated better. Do not pick from these, how-
ever, but grow as strong a crown as possible. If brought
into the greenhouse during mid-winter, there will be a welcome
supply of excellent parsley up to the time of new growth the
following spring. Having a few plants in pots allows of removal
to any cover that may be needed during winter.

THE TURNIP-ROOTED OR HAMBURG PARSLEY forms thick
fleshy roots resembling a Parsnip, about six inches long and
two inches in diameter. The flesh is white, dry, and possesses
a taste resembling both Celery and Parsley flavours. It is a
useful addition to our available vegetables, of easy culture, and
not affected by frost. Seeds are sown in early spring on well-
dug soil, and give treatment identical to that of other tap-roots,
and the roots may be gathered for use from September onwards.

WOODRUFF (As per ula odorata], an ornamental, sweet-
smelling plant, and WORMWOOD (Artemisia absinthum) are
two herbs that cannot claim much attention from the cook ;
they are medicinal or toilet herbs, demanding little or no culture
or choice of site or soil. But they provide an item so much
needed in the kitchen-garden — fragrance !

APPENDIX

BORDEAUX MIXTURE. — Dissolve two pounds of copper sulphate in
a gallon of hot water, using a wood or earthenware vessel. Afterwards
dissolve one pound of caustic lime in a sufficient quantity of water. When
the lime solution presents a milky appearance, pour it into the vessel
containing the copper sulphate solution, strain the whole through a
rough piece of sacking, and add sufficient water to make sixteen gallons
of liquid. Stir the mixture well, and use it at once with a knapsack
sprayer or other apparatus having a fine nozzle. When spraying, it is
important that the liquid touches the underside of the leaves.

SOOT- or MANURE-WATER.— Procure a stout canvas bag, fill it with
soot, or sheep, cow, poultry, and similar manures, and tie the mouth
effectually so that none of the contents can escape. Then, by a piece
of string or wire, suspend the bag — by means of a piece of wood laid
across the top of any suitable vessel — in water, until the latter turns a
rich wine colour. The liquid may now be poured off, diluted to quite
double its bulk, and used ; while the vessel containing the bag of manure
may be again filled with clear water. Replace the manure, etc., when
exhausted.

HOW TO MAKE A HOTBED.— The materials required consist of fresh
stable manure in sufficient quantity, with a fourth part of dead leaves.
The manure must be strawy, and quite fresh. First of all, throw the
manure into a heap, and leave it for a few days to ferment. Then turn
it over on to another piece of ground, and work in the leaves. If it is
dry or mildewed, water it well. Next day turn it over again, and once
or twice afterwards. Measure the frame next, and add at least a foot
on, all round. Choose the most strawy portion for the outside margin,
as the small stuff can always be used for the interior. Tread each layer
firmly. It is well to erect the bed slightly leaning outwards, as this
ensures its being the proper width at the top. Continue to build till all
the manure has been used, and then, with the fork, remove any loose
manure from the sides, throwing it and the remaining droppings into the
centre. Tread the heap well finally, and then put on the frame. Throw
soil into the latter to a depth of six inches ; and, after putting in the
thermometer, leave the frame for some days with the lights a little open.
When the temperature is about seventy degrees Fahr., it is safe to sow
seeds or put plants isito the frame.

MS

144 VEGECULTURE

LIME, AND ITS APPLICATION.— Lime can be applied either as quick-
lime, slaked lime, or chalk. In the latter form it is of little value, although
it may be used if it can be had in plenty, and the other forms are not easily
procured. Quicklime should be spread on the surface and left to " slake " ;
immediately after slaking it should be worked into the soil. The length
of time it should be left exposed varies with weather conditions, but for
" shell-lime " a period of from twelve hours to two days is generally
effective. Quicklime can now be had ground into a fine powder, and this
is undoubtedly the best form in which it can be applied to the soil. Slaked
lime, being of a moist and adhesive character, is difficult to apply evenly.
A larger amount is necessary, but it can be had much cheaper. The
refuse from acetylene gas plants consists mainly of slaked lime, and after
a brief exposure to the air may be used as such. Lime which has been
slaked for some time is always inferior to freshly-slaked lime ; hence the
best method is to get quicklime, and dig it in immediately after slaking.
Gas-lime, in its crude state, kills almost everything in or on the soil ; but
it is the cheapest form of lime, and the most profitable. It should be applied
as slaked lime. Gas-lime will soon lose its poisonous gases if spread over
the soil, and on vacant ground no harm is done ; but it takes months to
lose these gases if kept in a heap, without constant turning, and deprecia-
tion and loss inevitably ensues. Of course, if gas-lime is to be spread
among plants, it must be previously exposed to the air ; on vacant soil,
however, it can be dug into the surface after a day or two, where it will
act as an insecticide, and the injurious properties will soon pass away.

DESTRUCTIVE PESTS.— Wircworms and leather-jacket grubs make
their presence in the garden obvious by the extensive damage done to
seedlings and tender plants. The wireworm remains in the soil for from
two to four years, then changes into a click beetle. The leather-jacket
appears in early spring, has a short but gluttonous life until June or
July, then, after a month's rest, is transformed into a " daddy-long-legs."
We have the latter only during spring and summer ; the former is ever
with us. Correct tillage and manuring are the best remedies. Too much
farmyard manure in the soil encourages the pests, and the cultivator
should see that the soil is open, sweet, and not too moist. Lime will
help to keep the soil in good condition, and afford an antidote against too
much organic manure. Gas-lime, applied in the autumn, is the best soil
iumigant for wireworms ; also sulphate of iron or copperas applied at a
quarter-ounce per square yard. Salt or kainit may be applied in
autumn, but, unless on heavy soil, it can be used at any time. Soot is
sometimes advised against these pests if it is well dug into the top two or
three inches of soil. When these two insects are expected in a garden,
all pl.-ints should be given nitrate of soda, or some quick-acting manure,
to hasten them past the seedling stage of growth, which is the most
susceptible and critical period of plant-life. Slugs and snails are dealt
with most effectively by means of hand-picking, after a shower or water-
ing, and the marauders thrown into a can of hot water. Salt, soot, and
lime — the first especially — are three good destructive agents, also preven-
tives, as the slimy creatures abhor them. Worms succumb to the
application of lime-water. Caterpillars should be gathered by hand,
as they are so easily found ; a dusting of soot or lime will prevent their
attacks, and, indeed, rout them effectually even in the midst of their
depredations.

APPENDIX 145

LITTER AND THE FROST. — The farmyard and stable and the manure-
heap, and many things close to our hands in the autumn, make capital
litter for sheltering such things that need protection from the frost
and very cold winds. Common bracken makes a light and warm
covering for many tender subjects. Pea litter, if spread out and dried,
may be utilized. Rushes and sedges, laced together, will be found of
service for putting over framelights when mats are not to be had.

BURNING GARDEN REFUSE.— The refuse of a garden may be utilized
and put to a good purpose, or it may be allowed to become a great nuisance.
All prunings, weeds, and decayed vegetables should be burnt, and the
ashes returned to the soil, which they will make more fertile. Never dig
in to the soil wood prunings or a fungus will grow from them as they
decay. Burn everything of a woody nature.

THE MULCH. — Materials spread upon the ground in considerable
thickness to conserve moisture in dry weather, which may be stable
manure, sewage refuse, grass cuttings, charred refuse, bracken, cocoa-
fibre, the rotted portion of refuse-heaps, peat-moss litter that has been
used in poultry-houses, etc., rotted turf, leaves, etc. The mulch must be
removed from the crops in continued wet weather and when ripening of
bulbs, etc., is imminent ; and the stuff may with advantage be dug into
the soil at any convenient time.

THE APPLICATION OF WATER.— Rains, mists, and dews supply the
bulk of liquids, but artificial waterings are often necessary. These are
given morning or evening (not while the hot sun is upon the crops), and
the hoe should be used upon the ground immediately after. This action
creates an inch or two of dry dust upon the surface of the soil, which acts
as a protection from the absorbing rays of the sun, thus enabling the
moisture beneath to benefit the roots.

HOME-SAVED VEGETABLE SEEDS.— Choose the best-shaped,
largest, and generally well-appointed bulb, tuber, or root, and replant
in good soil ; or allow an exceptionally fine plant to run to seed. The
seeds are gathered when quite ripe ; or, rather, the whole plant is then
pulled up, and hung in the sun or warm shed to dry. The seeds must be
kept in a perfectly dry place until used.

PROTECTION AGAINST BIRDS AND ANIMALS.— Wire, rope, or fish-
netting should be provided for seed-beds, nursery-beds, and rows of
young Peas, etc., as a protection against birds, cats, dogs, etc. ; the netting
must be raised quite a foot from the ground, with all the sides and ends
shut in, or birds, especially, will find their way inside. Cotton or thread —
a single line is most effective — is a good protection against birds; for
striking against unseen threads alarms them, and drives them away.
Bright-coloured papers, tinsel, glass, tin, etc., placed so that the wind
moves them violently, are useful as bird-scarers ; also old tins knocking
together in the breeze ; but birds are becoming used to such artifices, and
require something more effective. Netting supplies this. Seeds, etc.,
may be protected from, mice, birds, and insects by being treated with
paraffin, red lead, soot, and lime; but here, again, a close-meshed netting
often proves the best safeguard.

II

146 VEGECULTURE

STERILIZING THE SOIL.— The compost is placed in a large shovel,
and held over a fire until it is heated through, so hot that the fingers
cannot be borne in it — a temperature of about two hundred degrees.
This will destroy all insects and fungi which may be in it. Another way
is to pour boiling water on the compost, but this makes it very wet, and
there is some little danger of the seed rotting instead of coming up if the
temperature should be rather low. But the soil should always be thus
treated well in advance of the time when it will be used.

CALENDAR REGULATING VEGETABLE
CULTURE

IN studying this Calendar, the gardener must recognise the fact that
while no two months are really alike in weather conditions, it often
happens that there is but little difference in this matter between two
consecutive months, so that such two months may be classed as one period
for gardening purposes, and the operations suited to both carried out
whenever suitable opportunity occurs. There is no hard and fast rule ; it
depends upon the locality, state of the weather and soil, and the gardener's
convenience as to what should or should not be done at a certain period
of the year.

JANUARY. — This should be considered the most important month
in the garden calendar, for it is a time of study and planning. Every
thoughtful gardener will now be devoting his energies to the arrangements
for next year's crops — how he shall divide his available garden ground
fairly between the subjects he intends to grow ; what those subjects shall
be ; where he shall purchase his seeds ; and numerous other items of
procedure. If the weather is favourable, by all means get to work
outside — digging, trenching, manuring ; but do not attempt anything
of the sort if the weather conditions are not agreeable. Seeds of Celery,
Leeks, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Celeriac, and Cauliflowers may be sown in
a brisk heat under glass.

FEBRUARY. — In some respects, the outlook for this month is similar
to that of January. If the weather is of a fair nature, however, seeds
of Parsnips, Onions, and Broad Beans may be sown, but not if the soil is
in a bad condition, and Shallots should be planted. Attend to seedlings
under glass ; see that they are placed, in heat of course, quite close to
the glass. Do not delay the purchase of seed Potatoes ; box them, and
expose them to light in a frost-proof building.

MARCH. — The first of the " sowing " months. The weather, however, is
often unpropitious, and sowings, except of the more hardy subjects, should
be deferred till next month. At all events, Shallots, Onions, Turnips,
Parsnips, Peas, Spinach, and Broad Beans should be got in ; while on a
warm border Shorthorn Carrots, Lettuces, and Radishes may be sown.
Sow seeds of all kinds of Greenstuffs. If fair weather obtains, sow Carrots ;
Potatoes (early kinds) may be planted. Sprinkle superphosphate and
soot in all seed and potato drills. Dig, manure, and clear the ground of
all rubbish by burning, etc. Sow Dwarf Beans, Peas, Maize, Cauliflowers,
Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, under glass. Plant Seakale.

APRIL. — The second " sowing " month ; and the most reliable. Seeds
of nearly every vegetable of a fairly hardy or main-crop nature should be
sown now ; and towards end of month, Beet, Chinese Artichokes, Dwarf
Beans, Asparagus, Chives, Oka, Seakale, Salsify, Scorzonera, Skirret,

147

148 VEGECULTURE

Herbs, etc., may with safety be sown. An ideal month for planting main-
crop Potatoes, Garlic, Cabbage, Lettuce and Onion plants. Keep
plants under glass growing steadily.

MAY. — The third and " safe " sowing period ; also general planting-out
time. Runner Beans, Herbs, Swede Turnips, and other tender subjects
may now be sown ; as well as any additional seeds that may be necessary
to supplement the earlier sown crops. Plant out, at end of month,
Tomatoes, Marrows, Cucumbers, Pumpkins ; or sow seeds outdoors of
the three latter subjects. Onion, Leek, Globe Artichoke. Bean, Lettuce,
and similar plants raised under glass should now be planted out. Give
water if weather is dry. Use the hoe around growing plants ; earth up
Potatoes gradually ; thin out all crops ; destroy weeds mercilessly ;
apply soot, salt and lime to prevent insect attacks. Successional crops
of Lettuce, Turnips. Spinach, Peas, Radishes, and Salad Onions may be
sown every two or three weeks from now until August.

JUNE. — A period of cultivation. The hoe should be the principal tool
in evidence this month, stirring and loosening the soil around plants,
destroying weeds, etc. If weather is dry, use the watering-pot first.
Plant out Marrows, Ridge Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Pumpkins, and other
tender plants ; sow seeds for successional crops of Peas, Beans, Salads,
etc. Gather early crops for immediate use ; do not let them become
too matured. Give liquid manure and clear water in dry weather ; and
also a mulch. If wet, use the hoe vigorously after rain to assist drainage.

JULY. — A replica of June, so far as operations arc concerned. A second
batcli of early kinds of Potatoes may be put in now (" seed " tubers may
be saved from the lifted crops). Train, water, and generally assist vege-
table-fruits outdoors to make rapid growth. Several early crops will begin
to mature, and should be harvested carefully.

AUGUST. — A month of harvest. Also, towards the latter end, of
sowing for winter crops. Winter Radishes, Spinach, Lettuces, .Onions,
come under the latter operation. The weather may be dry and hot ; and
if so, plenty of water must be in evidence. Crops, as they mature, should
be thoroughly dried — in the sun, if possible — and stored.

SEPTEMBER. — The second harvest month ; also for the continuation
of August seed-sowing. The late crops are maturing fast now. Seeds of
Spring Cabbages should now be sown. Dig and manure all vacant ground.

OCTOBER. — The third harvest month for the latest crops. A trial
row or two of Early Peas and Broad Beans may be sown ; also seeds of
Cauliflowers sown under glass to be transplanted into frames to negotiate
the winter. A capital period for trenching, ridging, and general digging
the soil. Also for the application of lime, soot, and organic manures.

NOVEMBER. — A month of uncertain weather, probably restricting out-
door operations. The latter will consist mainly of protective work, so
far as crops still in the ground, and young plants, are concerned. An
excellent time for ridging the soil.

DECEMBER . — A replica of November, often even in weather conditions.
If wet, little or nothing can be done outside ; but if dry, digging,
trenching, and ridging may be continued putting manure down deeply
in subsoil.

INDEX

A.

Allotment, The, 4

Church Army, 5
Angelica, 133
Anise, 133, 134
Artichoke, The Globe, 115, 116

„ Chinese, 60

,, „ Jerusalem, 59, 60

Artificial Manures, 19
Asparagus, 113, 114, 115

Substitutes for 74, 83,
84, 128, 132
Aubergine, 101, 102
Autumn Sowing, Cabbages, 71, 72.

74. 75
Autumn Sowing, Onion, 89, 90

B.

Balm, 134
Basil, 134
Beans, Broad, 52, 53

„ Dwarf, 51, 52

„ Forcing, 52

Runner, 48, 49, 50

,, Various Forms of, 52
Beet, The, 36 37, 38

, Ornamental, 36. 37

„ Seakale, 38

„ Spinach, 37
Birds and Insects. Protection

from, 145
Borage, 134, 135
Borecole, 75, 76
Bordeaux Mixture, 143
Borders, 8

Broccoli, 77, 79, 80, Si
Brussels Sprouts, 76, 77
Burdock, Edible, 153
Burnet, 122
Burning Garden Refuse, 145

C.

Cabbage Family, The, 70, 71, 72,
73. 74. 75. 76, 77. 7«. 79, 80
81. 82, 83, 84

Cabbage, The Common, 71, 72, 73
Diseases, 82
The Portugal, 74
„ ,, Savoy, 74

Red, 73, 74
Cabbages, Chinese, 74, 75

,, Colewort, 74

Capsicum, 102
Carrots, 34, 35, 36
Canker, Melon, in
Cardoon. 68, 69
Carraway, 135
Catch Crops, 121, 122, 126, 127

128, 129, 130

Cauliflower, The, 77, 78, 79
Celery, 63, 64, 65, 66

for Exhibition, 65, 66
„ Soups, 66
Fly, The, 66
Celeriac, 66
Chervil, 139, 140, 141

Turnip-rooted, 140, 141
Chicory, 40, 41
Chinese Artichokes, 60

Cabbages, 74, 75
Chives, 94
Choice of Subject, 6
Chou de Burghley, 75
Clary, 135
Coleworts, 74
Composition of Soil, 10
Compost, Seed-bed, 22, 23
Corn Salad, 122
Coriander, 135
Couve Tronchuda, 74
Cress, 122, 123, 124
„ American, 123

149

150

VEGECULTURE

Cress, Brazil, 123

,, Meadow, 123

,, Water, 123, 124

Winter, 123

Crops, Rotation of, 16, 17
Cucumber Family, The, 103, 104,

105, 106, 107, 108, 109 no, in,

112

Cucumber, The, 103, 104, 105, 106
„ Ridge, 105, 106
,, Japanese, 106
in Frames, in, 112
Winter Culture, 105
Cultivation, General, 26
Cultural Calendar, 147
Cumin, 135, 136
Cuttings, Cucumber, 105
,, Tomato, 98

D.

Dandelion, 124, 125

Decorative Herbs, 130 133 136,

139, 140. 141, 142
Decorative Vegetables, 6, 36, 37,

38, 40, 41, 75, 76, 93, 94, 95,

IOI, IO2, IO3

Depth to Sow, 22

Digging, 12, 13

Dill, 136

Diseases, 26, 27, 28, 48, 59, 82, in

Drainage, n

E.

Egg Plant, 101, 102

Endive, 125, 126

Enemies, Insect, 26, 27, 28, 66, 83,

91, 92, in, 144
Evening Primrose, 44, 133
Exhibiting Vegetables, 29, 30, 31

F.

Family, The Cabbage, 70, 71, 72,
73. 74. 75, 76, 77> 7«. 79. 80, 81,
82, 83, 84
Fennel, 141

„ Florence, 132, 133

Finnochio, 132, 133

Flavouring Herbs, 133, 134, 135
136, 137. 138. 139

Flea, Turnip, 83

Florence Fennel, 132, 133

Frost and Litter, 145

Fruits, Vegetable, 95, 96, 97, 98
99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, no, in, n-

G.

Garlic, 93, 94

Garnishing Herbs 139, 140, 141,

142

Gobo, 133
Golden Thistle, 133
Good King Henry, 131, 132
Gourds, 107, 1 08

Ornamental, 108, 109

H.

Herbs, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125,
126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131,

132, 133. 134. 135. 136, 137.

138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143
Herbs, Decorative, 130, 133, 136,

139, 140, 141, 142

Herbs, Flavouring, 133, 134, 135,

136, 137. 138. 139
Herbs, Salad, 122, 123, 124, 125,

126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131
Herbs, Vegetable, 131, 132, 133
Herb, Patience, 131
Home-saved Seeds, 145
Horseradish, 43, 44
Hotbed, to Make, 143
Humus, 14
Hyssop, 136

I.

Ideal, The, 9
Indian Corn, 116, 117
Insects, 26, 27, 28, 66, 83, 91, 92,
in, 114

J-

Japanese Cucumber, The, 106

INDEX

151

Kale, 75, 76
Kohl Rabi, 81

K.

L.

Lavender, 136

Laying-out, 8, 9

Leeks, 67, 68, 94

Leguminous Vegetables 45, 46,

47, 48 49, 50, 51, 52, 53
Lettuces, 126, 127, 128
Long-rooted Vegetables, 32, 33,

34. 35. 36 37. 38, 39. 4°. 41.

42» 43. 44
Lime, 144
Litter, 145

M.

Maggot, The Onion, 91, 92

Maize, 116, 117

Manures, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 56, 90

Manure Water, 143

Marrow, Vegetable 106 107,

III, 112

Marigold, 136
Marjoram, 136, 137
Meadow Cress, 123
Melons, 109, no, in, 112
Mercury, 131, 132
Mildew, Pea, 48
Mint, 137

Miscellaneous Vegetables, 113,
114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120
Mulch, The, 145
Mushrooms, 117, 118, 119
Mustard, 128

N.

Nasturtium, Tuberous, 61
„ Common, 128
„ Speciosum, 128

O.

Oka, 61,62
Onion Tribe, The, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89,

90, 91, 92, 93, 94

Onions, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92
Autumn-sowing, 89, 90

Onions, Spring-sowing, 88

,, Potato or Underground, 93
Manures for, 90
Sets, 92

Tree or Egyptian, 92
,, Storage of, 90
Onion Maggot, 91, 92

P.

Pak-Choi, 74, 75
Parsley, 141, 142

„ Turnip-rooted, 142
Parsnips, 33, 34
Patience Dock, 131
Pea Mildew 48
Peas, 47, 48
Pests, Destructive, 144
Pe-tsai, 74, 75
Potato Onion, The, 93

„ The, 54. 55, 56, 57, 58
Potatoes, Diseases of, 59
,, Forcing, 56

in Pots, 56, 57
,, Manures for, 56
Seed, 58
Storing, 57, 58
Portugal Cabbage, 74
Protection against Birds and

Animals, 145
Pumpkin, 107, 108
Purslane, 128

Winter, 128

R.

Radish, 129, 130
Rampion, 44, 130
Red Cabbages, 73, 74
Rhubarb, 41, 42
Root Storage, 44
Rosemary, 136
Rotation of Crops 16, 17
Rue, 137, 138

S.

Salads, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126.

127, 128, 129, 130, 131
Sage, 138

152

VEGECULTURE

Salsify, 41
Savoy Cabbage, 74
Savory, 138
Scorzonera, 41
Seakale, 38, 39, 40
Seeds, 21

Seed-bed Compost, 22, 23
Seed Potato, 58
,.. saving, 145
„ sowing, 21, 22, 33
Seedlings, 24, 25, 26
Shallot, 93
Skirret, 60, 61
Soils, Composition, 10

Manipulation, 13, 14
Sterilising, 146
Sorrel, 130, 131

Wood, 131
Spinach, 119, 120
Squash, The, 108
Storing Onions, 94

Potatoes, 57, 58
Roots, 44
Swedish Turnips, 83 84

T.

Tansy, 139

Tarragon, 139

Thyme, 139

Tomato from Cuttings, 98

,, in Glasshouses, 97, 98, 99

,, for Spring Cutting 98
in Open Air, 90, 100

„ The, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100

„ Novelties, 100
Town Gardens. 4, 5. 6
Trenches, Vegetables in, 63, 64, 65,

66. 67, 68, 69
Tuberous-rooted Vegetables, 54

55. 56, 57. 58, 59, 60, 61, 62
Turnips, 82, 83

Swedish, 83, 84
Turnip, Flea, 83
Turnip-rooted Beet, 38

Cabbage, 81

Turnip-rooted Celery, 66

Chervil, 140, 141
, Parsley, 142

U.
Unicorn Plant, The, 102, 103

V.

Vegetable-Fruits, 95. 96, 97, 98, 99,
loo, loi, 102, 103, 104, 105,
106, 107, 108, 109, no, in,

112

Vegetable Herbs 131, 132, 133
,, Marrows, 106, 107

Refuse, 145
Vegetables, Choice of, 6

Decorative, 6, 36, 37,

38, 40, 41, 75. 76, 93, 94, 95, 101,

102, 103
Vegetables for Exhibition, 29, 30,

3L 47
Vegetables in Trenches, 63, 64, 05,

66, 67, 68, 69
Vegetables, Leguminous, 45, 46, 47,

48, 49- 50. 5L 52, 53
Vegetables, Long-rooted, 3^

34. 35. 36, 37. 38, 39. 4°. 4L 42

43. 44
Vegetables, Miscellaneous, 113, 114,

115, 116, 117 118, 119, 120
Vegetables, Tuberous-rooted, 54,

55. 56, 57. 58, 59. 60, 61, 62

W.

Water, Application of, 145
Water Cress, 123

,, Manure, 143

„ Soot, 143
Weeds, 27
Winter Cress, 123
Wood Sorrel, 131
Woodruff, 142
Wormwood, 142

Y.
Yams, 42, 43

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