&

'* *+m]

Y*r*gi

VOYAGE

INTO THE

LEVANT:

Perform'd by Command of the Late French King.

CONTAINING

The Antient and Modern State of the Iflands

of the Archipelago ; as alfo of Conftantinople, the Coafts of the
(Black. Sea, Armenia, Georgia, the Frontiers of (perfia, and
Afia Minor.

WITH

Plans of the principal Towns and Places of Note $ an
Account of the Genius, Manners, Trade, and Religion of the re-
fpedtive People inhabiting thofe Parts : And an Explanation of Variety
of Medals and Antique Monuments.

Illuftrated with Full Defcriptions and Curious Copper-Plates of great
Numbers of Uncommon Plants, Animals, &c. And feveral Obfer-
vations in Natural Hiftory.

By M. TOVRNEFORT, of the Royal Academy of Sciences, Chief
Botanifl to the late French King, &c.

- ■ -- - - ■ ...... i i ■ i ■

To which is Prefix'd,

The Author's LIFE, in a Letter to M. Begon : As alfo his Elogium, pro-
nounc'd by M. FonteneUe, before a publick AiVembly of the Academy of Sciences.

Adorn'd with an Accurate MAP of the Author's Travels, not in the Reach

Edition : Done by Mr. Semx.

In Two Volumes.

LONDON,
Printed for D. Browne, A. Bell, J. Darby, A. Bf. ttesworth, J. Pnvi-

»S R. T O N, C. R I V I N G T O N, J. H O O K E, R. C R V T T E N D E N and T- C O X,
J. B A T T L E y, E. S Y M O N. M. DCC XVIII.

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T O

Sir SAMUEL STANIER.

-

S I R,

)\HE more than equal Share 1 have had in rendering into
Englifli this Work^of the Celebrated M. Tournefort, giving

if me a fort of (Right to make a particular Dedication 5 I take
this publick. Opportunity, inflead of begging your patronage, to return
You the Tribute of my Thanks for having early and conflantly honour d
me with it. Such Acknowledgments were indeed the Original of \Ad-
drejfes of this kind,

A VOX AGE throughout the Levant cannot fail of Acceptance
with a Gentleman, who has him/elf not only traVeXd great part of ity
but bears as great a Sway, and has as extended an Interefi in the
Commerce of the whole, as any other Member whatever, of the
ant'tent and opulent Company trading thither. A Circumjiance he-
reditary fotlie Staniers, one of whom 1 find, in a Dedication of
a certain Italian fBookj highly prats' d for doing good Offices to fuch as
trafficked into the Levant, refided, or had any Correfpondence there. This

A 2 was

iv The Dedication.

was Mr. James Stanier: and' that the fame good Offices are
continu'd abroad by Sir Samuel Stanier, -his 'Beneficence at
home leases no room to doubt.

S I R,

TO U ^ Iqiown Skill in Languages, together with your Love and Tafte
of Polite Literature, may have already engaged you to read this Piece in
the Original : if fo, without fore flailing your Judgment, I cannot but
believe You found this Relation of M. TournefortV Voyage into the
Levant to be equally entertaining and improving, and, as it were> an
Encyclopaedia, a Circle or Courfe of all the Arts and Sciences. 'Tis
certain he himfelf looted upon it as his Maflerpiece, and was much fonder
of this than of any other of his Performances . It may, however, be
juflly faid to be fo full of unufual "Terms and peculiar Modes of Ex~
prejjion, that it required fmne Study and Pains to unfold the My ft cries of
this Oracle of an Author.

, THE Verfion, fuch as it is, 1 fubmit to your Candor-, and am, U

■

S 1 %>

Jour mofl Obedient Humble Servant,

John OzclL u

( V ^

THE

I F E

0 F

M, TO U R N E F 0 R T:

1 N

A Letter to M. Begon, Intendant of the
Marine at Rochefort, &c.

SIR,

| HE Letter you was pleas'd to write to my Father, fufficiently
mews your Concern for the Death of M. Tournefort. You
at the lame time. intimate how glad you mould be, to know
the various Circumftances of his Life. I therefore do my
ielf che honour to communicate to . you all the Particulars I am ac-
quainted with relating to that Subject, and which I learnt from the De-
ceas'd himfelf.

VOUCHSAFE me, Sir, fome little Thanks for the Agonies I fuiFer,
to obey you j fince Vm forced to a frefli Remembrance of thofe happy
Hours fpent ,on me by M. Tournefort, to inform me of his Travels,

and

vi The Life of M. Tournefort.

and inftrudt me in his Syftems and Difcoveries : Things which I cannot
depofite in better hands than yours. No body is ignorant of the Efteem
you had for him ; nor indeed could he mite it, deferving as he was from
all Perfons of Merit. Your Efteem is a fort of Tribute you think
owing to the Reputation and Memory of Great Men: witnefs their
Portraits, with which you adorn your rare well-chofen Library ; witnefs
too that noble Hiftory of the Great Men of the lad Age, for which
the World is indebted purely to your Love of them.

NO doubt there will be found excellent Pens, that fhall make EIo-
giums truly worthy of M. Tournefort : But, Sir, in executing this me-
lancholy Duty which you have engaged me to perform to him, well
latisfy'd that I only fpeak the Language of the Heart, I fhall be far from
envying Them, en this occafion, their Productions of the Head. As I
cannot vie with them in Sublimity of Thought, nor Politenefs of Ex-
preflion, my Endeavours fhall only be to reprefent with cxa&nefs fuch
Facts as I can call to mind.

JOSEPH PITTON DE TOVRNEFORT was born at Aix in
Provence. He had not only the Birth, but Sentiments and Virtues of a
Gentleman : Advantages which he was contented to pofTefs, without
being ofteritatious of 'em.

FROM his earlieft Infancy, he felt that PaiTioh'for Plants, which
afterwards caus'd him to carry the Knowledge of 'em to fo high a pitch.
His innate Genius was his firft Mafter ; impatient to break out, it foon
knew how to difcover itfel£ He was confefs'd a Botanift, even before he
himfelf could know what the Word meant.

OFTENTIMES would he Heal away from his Play. fellows, to
purfue his Inquiries after Vegetables. His frequent Sallies from his Fa-
ther's Houfe were only to go a fimpling ; for which be was fbmetimes a
little too feverely punifh'd, through their Ignorance who knew no better :
fucW however was the Prelude of his Botanick Excurfions. He was not
near fo much concern'd at thefe Chaftifements, as he was pleas'd WlWn
he met with a Vegetable that was new to him. From hence 'tis plain, the
Education that was given him contributed nothing towards his Knowledge
in Botany. The Lights he acquir'd therein, were fblely owing to his
happy Dilpofition, or rather to a fort of Scientifical InftinC^.

THIS

The Life of M. Tournefort vil

THIS however maybe faid, that Art envying Nature the Glory of
forming, alone, this gto wing Botanift, threw in his way the Works of
Diofcorides and Matthiolw. Thefe he faw, and perus'd again and again ;
with Tranfports of Joy, that foretoken'd how great a Figure he would
one day make in their Art. But, not content with feeing the bare Re-
prefentation of Plants, becaufe he was not as yet of an Age ripe enough
to underfland without help the Explications thofe Mailers have given
of 'em ; he was refolv'd to learn their Names, and even their Properties :
and accordingly, by one means or other, attain'd his Defires.

WHAT did he do, or rather what did he not do, to improve him-
felf in this Science ? No place was inacceflible to him, where he had
any iulpicion of Plants. Once, in a more than ordinary Botanical Fir,
having fcaled a high Wall in queft of fomething in that way, he had like
to have paid for his Curiofity with the lofs of his Reputation, and almofl
that of his Life too ; being taken for a Thief by the Owners of the
Ground, and warmly purfu'd with Vollies of Stones and Brickbats. This
Accident made him indeed more wary, but not lefs ardent in his Re-^
fearches.

BOTANY however was not the only Object of his Investigations:
he had the fame Fondnefs for Chymiftry and Anatomy. They llrove
which fhould have the preference in his Bread, or rather it was a Con-
tention among thefe Sciences, which of 'em fhould engrofs him to it
felf. He reconciled their emulous Claims, and had the Art to fliare him-
felf among them ; a fecret Pre-dile&ion made him, however, lean tc*
Botany, which was always his favourite Study.

WITH fuch Difpofitions, it was impoflible but he fhould make great
advances. Being a younger Brother, he was deflgn'd for the Church,
and accordingly had begun his Theological Courfes. But Heaven having
beftow'd on him an elder Brother's Portion in Gifts of the Mind, and
being as it were pre-ordain'd to ftudy the Author of Nature, in her re-
fpe&ive Operations, rather than in fcholaftick Books, he fhew'd no great,
liking to the Ecclefiaftical State. He could not take up with Sciences that
were indolent and purely fpeculative ; the active and practical fort were
thofe which alone engaged his Attention. His Parents could not in con-
fcience withftand fuch laudable Inclinations, and thought themfelves

obliged

viii The Life of M. Tournefort.:

obliged to let him improve his "talent his own way. ' Then it Was 'he
undertook his firft Travels': The moil unknown Plants of Provence, Sa-
i-oj, and Daiip mny\ he foon became thoroughly acquainted with. For
fome time he- flroll'd from One Country to another, indifferent which
way he diredtcd his Steps. He was for examining all things, and know-
ing every thing at once. Yet being guided by VDifcretion that out-
flript his Years, he well law that his Body could not keep pace with his'
Mind, and therefore was of opinion 'twould be better to conduct himfelf
as it were by Rule.

HE prefently went to Mont pettier, where he bent himfelf to the Study
of Medicine, and by the Principles of Art riveted and inlarg'd thole:
Endowments Nature had already beflow'd on him. His Tafle loon de-
clar'd it felf : he contracted a fad Friendfhip with M. Magnol, a famous
Botaniit, who would have been the firft of the Age, had he not had
M. Tournefort for his Contemporary. This Gentleman accompany'd
him in his Herborizations. Such a Difciple, you may be fure, foon
equal'd his Mailer ; nay, he in a manner became his Collegue, and dif-
cover'd divers Plants that till then were unknown.

HERE he form'd the Defign of travelling into Spain. He fet for-
wards for Barcelona, furnifh'd with not a few Recommendations, particu-
larly to M. Salvador, no lefs skilful in Pharmacy, than famed for Bota-
ny : and care was had to let him know M. de Tournefort'^ Relifh for that
Science, as well as the Progrefs he had already made therein.

LONGING to acquire further Knowledge, our young Traveller
began his Journey by himfelf about the Clofe of Winter,1 undaunted at
the Severity of the Seafbn, or the Dangers he expos'd himfelf to, and
which were foretold him by lome of his Friends. Which Prediction was,
to his forrow, fulfilPd in the Pyrenean Mountains, where the Miquelets
fliipt him to his Skin. This Misfortune mov'd him: being young,
and more a Botanift than a Philofopher, he could not refrain from weep-
ing. The Cold being lrkewife very violent, he conjur'd the Robbers to
return him at lead his Clothes. May there not be lbme particular Effi-
cacy in the Tears of a Youth born to Great Things ? His, 'tis certain,
were fo perfoafive, that -one of the Rogues threw him his upper Coat
again: in which, by an unexpected Good- fortune, he recover'd fome

Mony

The Life of M. Tournefort. ix

Mony he had ty'd up in his Handkerchief, which flipping down into the
Lining, had efcaped die Search of thefe Thieves.

THIS Refource, tho no extraordinary one, help'd to reftorc his Spi-
rits. Philofophy, which began to dawn in his Soul, was his Support^
and ftrengthen'd him againfl: the Inclemency of the Weather, as well as
againft the Badnefs of his Fortune. Yet, as Philofophers have a Body
as well as a Soul, fo M. Tournefort being bare-legg'd, had much ado to
reach the next Town, tho not far off the place where he was robb'd.
Here he put himfelf into an Equipage luitable indeed to the Lowneis of
his Circumftances, but far inferiour to his real Merit. In a word, Sir,
I have heard him more than once relate with pleafure this Circumftance
of his Life, wherein all he could afford himfelf was a Thrum-Cap,
Linen Trowzers, and a Pair of Wooden Shoes. And yet as melancholy
as his Cafe was, the Lois that molt afFe&ed him was that of the Re-
commendatory Letters he was carrying with him to Barcelona. One thing
did indeed comfort him, and that was the Fertility of the Plains, where
he breath' d a fweeter Air than in the Mountains he was newly got out
of : to charm away his Sorrow, he gathered Phyfical Herbs all the way
he went. Divers ftrange Plants, which ceas'd to be ftrange to him,
made him amends for his late Sufferings. He flatter'^ himfelf that
thefe would be his beft Credentials with the Perlbn he was directed
to. He was not difappointed of his Expectation; for no fboner had he
made himielf known, but he was recerv'd with all the Civility he de-
ferv'd. The Condition he appear'd in, wrought as much Companion as
his Prefence created Pleafiire. M. Salvador left nothing undone, to

make him forget bisDifafter; nor was it long before his Endeavours had

the fuccefs he defir'd.
DURING the time that M. Tournefort tarry 'd in Catalonia, he tra-

vers'd the whole Country, accompany'd by feveral Perfons who were

Lovers of Botany ; and his coming into that Country leem'd to be on

parpofe to difcover to them Variety of rare Plants, which they were in

pofTeiTion of, without knowing it.

YET did he not in this firft Journey meet with every thing that he

had promis'd to himfelf. His Return into France had like to have been

more fatal to him, than his Departure out of it.

VoL L a IN

x The Life of M. Tournefort.

IN a certain Village hard by Perpignan, the Houfe where he took up
his Quarters fell down in the night-time; he continu'd a good while
bury'd under its Ruins, and 'twas almoft miraculous he was not fmother'd
or crufh'd to death.

HE return'd to Moxtpellier, to continue his Courfe in Medicine, as
alfo his Operations in Chymiftry and Anatomy: in faying this, I fay
enough to periuade that he perfected himfelf in every one of thofe
Sciences. He afterwards went to Orange, where he was admitted Do&or
of Phyfick.

FROM thence he repair'd to Jix .• But his Paflion for whatever had
the appearance of Natural Philofophy, not permitting him to make any
long ftay here ; he refolv'd to try whether the Alps would not be more
propitious to him than the Pyrenees. While he travelPd the Countries
that parted 'em, his Thoughts were perpetually employ'd in the Study of
Vegetables and Nature. High Mountains and fteep Precipices were to
him the moll inftru&ive Books in the World, tho no lefs difficult than
dangerous to run over.. Many a time, when he had clamber'd to the
top of a mountainous rugged Rock, 'twas as much as he could do to get
down again.

M AUG RE fo many Fatigues and Dangers, he thought he could
never purchafe tod dear the Pleafure of improving himfelf y he knew of
no greater.

NEITHER Plants nor Stones, in fliort, nothing that relates to
Natural Hiftory efcaped his Attention wherever he went : he examin'd
every thing with an Eagernefs that never flagg'd.

THE Lights he acquir'd were too great to be any longer conceal'd
or fiuitlefs. Altho Merit be proper and perfonal to a Man, yet the
Effects it produces feem to be in a manner foreign to him. This kind
©f Paradox was verify'd in M. Tournefort. Whilfl he was at Aix (whi-
ther he would now and then take a turn, as he thought fit) intirely bufy'd
with his Phyfical Obfervations, his Merir was operating (without his
privity) at Paris. Not even his Prefence (when he came thither him-
felf) contributed any thing to the Reputation he there acquir'd ; for his
Fame had got thither before him.

AMONG

The Life of M. Tournefort. xi

AMONG numbers that fpoke in praife of M. Tournefort, none did
it fo efficacioufly as Madam de Venelk, Sub-Governefs of the Children
of France. Having always been in Ariel Friendship with M. Tournefort's
Family, flie was minded to give him more fobltantial Proofs of it than
mere Commendations. She engaged him to come to Paris, and prefented
him to M. Fagon, who at that time was chief Phyfician to the Queen.

M. F AGO N's Depth of Knowledge foon made him fenfible of that
of M. Tournefort, who in his firft Converlation juftify'd all the advan-
tageous things that had been fpoken of him. Overjoy'd with having
lit on lb rare a Man, he bent all his thoughts how to procure him every
thing his marvellous Talents deferv'd. He made it his Duty to the Pub-
lick, and a particular Pleafure to himfelf, to be his Protector ; and ac-
cordingly he got him nominated Profefibr of Botany in the Royal
Garden.

M.TOVRNEFO fiT's Abilities foon drew to him a numerous Af-
fluence of Men of Learning, or of fuch as endeavour'd to be fo. His
Renown was not confin'd to France ; foreign Countries furniih'd him a
world of Admirers, who turn'd their Admiration into Friendfhip, the
moment they became acquainted with him, and ever after counted it a
Glory to carry on with him a Correlpondeuce of Love and Literature.

IN his Botanick Lectures he join'da ufeful Pradtick to a learned
Theory ; and in his divers Herborizations (Simplings) about Parti, he
taught to know on the (pot the feveral Plants he had before given a de-
fcription of.

FOR the ufeful Ernbeliihment of the Royal Garden, he travel'd to
Spain and Portugal, by the King's Order ; as likewife into England and
Holland. At Oxford he had feveral Conferences with Dr. Goddard, who
conceiv'd fo great an Efteem for him, that he imparted to him the ad-
mirable Secret of his Drops. So true is it, that Men of real Learning
refpeel and cherifh Merit in the Perfon even of their Rivals in Learn-
ing, tho they be of another Nation : their Intellectual Parts feem to
make 'em all of one Country.

M.TOVRNEFORT brought home from his Travels very large
quantities of uncommon Plants ; and many more were fent to him by Per-
fons whofe Acquaintance he had cultivated in divers Countries : fo that by

a 2 his

xii The Life of M. Tournefort.

his means the King's Garden is become the richeft Magazine of Plants
of any in Europe, perhaps of the whole World ; it is, as one may fay,
the very Seat and Manfion of Botany.

HIS Skill and Capacity were too generally acknowledg'd, not to ob-
tain the Juftice they deferv'd. The King, whole liberal Hands were con-
tinually open to pour Favours on Men of Worth, found M, Tournefort a
Subject truly worthy of the Academy of Sciences. He was inftantly
admitted therein among the number of Penfionaries in 169 1.

MONSIEUR the Chancellor de Pontchartrain, who was at that
time Comptroller-General of the Finances and Secretary, of State, had
the Academies .under his Care. Being no lefs juflr and certain in the
Choices he made, than profound in the Sciences to which he condefcended
to apply himfelf ; he intruded the Care of the. Academy of Sciences to
his Nephew the Abbot Bignon, to whofe good Tafte and penetrating Judg-
ment we owe the Nomination of M. Tournefort. Thus, Sir, the Firft-
fruits of his Adminiftration were confecrated to the Glory of the Con>
rnonwealth of Learning, by the Choice he made of two Men of fiich
diftinguifh'd Merit as the late M. Tournefort and M. Homberg, who fince
has alio been one of the principal Ornaments of that Academy.

THE more M. Tournefort came in view, the more his different Qua-
lifications were taken notice of . The Philofophers, the Chymifts, the
Anatomifts, and the Geometricians, admired in him thofe rare Talents for
which themfelves are admired.. Tho he was flricUy only of she Clals
of Botanifls, yet his Genius was capable of every thing.

IN order to juftify his Majefty's Choice to the Learned World, he
publihVd in 1694, his Element* of Botany, or Method how to know Plants,
in three Volumes in Octavo. The firft contains the Explications of fev&-
ral Plants ; and the two laft confift of Plates giving an analytical De-
fcription of the Leaves, Flowers, Fruits, and Seeds of all the Plants in
the firft Volume : and for the fake of Strangers, M. Tournefort afterwards
publiflfd them in Latin, with the Title of Injtitutiones Rei Herbaria.

IN this Work be found a way to clear the main Difficulties of
Botany, by reducing the Eight Thouland Eight Hundred Forty Six
Species of Plants at that time known, to Six Hundred Threescore and
Thirteen Genera ; and thofe Genera into Two and Twenty ClalTes. He

exactly

The Life of M. Tournefort. xiri

exactly fpecifies the effential Figures and Qualities that diftinguifh them,
as well in their Flower as in their Fruit and Seed. And as Diofcorides
treated only of Six Hundred forts of Plants, M. de Fontenelle, in his
Hiflory of the Academy of Sciences for the Year 1700, fays with his
ufual Delicacy, That by the Labours of M. Tournefort, we are now ac-
quainted with more Genera of Plants, than Diofcorides knev Species.

AFTER the Reputation M. Tournefort had acquired, did he not de-
ferve to be of a Faculty of Phyfick fb famous as that of Paris ? 'Twas
even necefTary in common Decency, that he fhould be received into it.
M. Fagon, to whom he dedicated his Thefis, was reciprocal Surety be-
tween both; and therein fhew'd that he was no lefs ftudious of the
Glory of a Body under his Protection, than defirous of the Advance-
ment of a Man that was likely to be one of its mod eminent Members.

AFTERWARDS M. Tournefort wrote his Hiflory of the Plants that
grow about Paris, with their Medicinal Vfes. It came not out till 1698.
He therein fhews, that France pofTefTes within her own Bolbm whole- Trea-
sures of Remedies, and Springs of Health which fhe was ignorant of, and
which perhaps might have frill continu'd unknown to her, but for M. Tour-
neforfs Application and Inquiries. His Elements of Botany had taught how
to diftinguifh one Plant from another ; this Book taught a way to learn their
Virtues by means of a chymical Analyfis. The Author there fhews in
a convincing manner, that any Artifl obferving thereby whether Alkali,
Acid, Sulphur, fome of the Salts, Earth or Water prevail in them, may
clearly diftinguifh their Qualities, and judge in what Diftemper each Plant
is prevalent.

NOT fatisfy'd with having made an Analyfis of Plants, he alfb fta-
dy'd their Anatomy ; and diflinguifh'd in them Parts like to thofe of
Animals, before him unknown. His Eye, affifted with the Micro-
fcope, difcover'd Pipes through which the nutritious Juice of the Earth
filtrated, and others whereby they flow'd back again ; he compares them
to the Veins and Arteries. He likewife found out, by his Penetration
other Conduits like wreathed Pillars, by means whereof the Air contri-
butes to the Nourifhment and Support of Plants, and is carry'd into the
Trachian Arteries, or what we may call the Lungs, which till then were
unknown to us.
* 'TWAS

xiv The Life of M. Tournefort.

'TWAS too incoufiderablc a thing in his Thoughts to have found
out in Plants a Life almoft fenfitive ; he renew'd, and, which is more,
demonstrated a Syltem of the vegetative Life of Stones. Several cu-
rious Differtations, which he read to the Academy of Sciences upon this
Subject, acquired him abundance of Followers.

W E alio owe to him a thoufand furprizing Particulars relating to the
Formation of Corals, Spunges, Sea-Muflirooms, Lithophites and itony
Plants, or others that grow at the bottom of the Sea : he calls them by
the name of. marine Plants, to diftinguifh them from the maritime ones
that grow on the Sea-fhore.

M. TQVRNEFORT extended his Syftem of Vegetation to Mine-
rals, and even to Metals, Rock-Chryltals, and precious Stones. Some
may perhaps imagine, that he flung out thefe Notions at a venture :
but, Sir, this was very far from being his Character. His Refervednefs
was fo great in this relpecT:, that he was rather fcrupulous than fanciful :
bare Conjecture, unfupported by Proofs, had no weight with him. He
built wholly upon certain Experiments or folid Demonstrations : fo that
every thing he advanc'd, tho out of modefty he might do it only as an
Obfervatioo, might go for experimented, with a Prabatum eft.

H E knew how to draw Profit from mere Curiofity. There was not

a thing in his Collections, but what fupported fome Point of his Syltem.

For inftance, he had maintain'd that in a certain Seafon of the Year the

Coral emits, at the extremity of its Branches, an acrid Liquor heavier

than the Sea- water, which confequently finks to the bottom, and being

extremely clammy, fattens to the firit folid Body that it meets : divers

Corals, which he had gather'd together, were the proof of this curious

Propagation. He fhew'd fome of all Ages and of all Sorts, from their

flrft Stage (which is as it were the Bud) to their compleat Formation.

Among the Corals he pofTefs'd, there were fome of different forts of red,

of role-colour, flem-colour, white, black, and fillemot : fome growing

upon Flints, others on pieces of Wood, on Shells, on bits of broken

Earthen- Ware, and even on a piece of a human Skull; and they all as it

were incorporated with thofe various Subftances which lay at the bottom

of the Sea, and on which they commenc'd their Growth.

* AS

The Life of M. Tournefort. x v

AS to the Vegetation of Stones, we are obliged to M. Tournefort for
the reviving of this Hypothefis, which had been long forgotten. In-
form'd by his Reading, but much more by his Travels, he examin'd with
a knowing Attention every thing in general that could have the lead re-
lation to it. When he had made fome Difcoveries, it was not enough to
fatisfy him ; he not only fearch'd the Caufes of them, but he muft alfb-
have the Proofs. We owe thofe Proofs, and, if we may be allow'd to
go fb far, the Evidence of this Syftem, to the Reflections he made, and
at the fame time to the Care he took in collecting every thing that could
fupport and ftrengthen his Opinion.

, OBSERVING that the Sea-Mufhrooms, Corals, and the other
{tony Plants, were Bodies ever organized, and conftantly of the fame
Conftru&ion, each according to its Species, tho found in different Coun-
tries ; he concluded, that each Species had its peculiar Germen.

FURTHERMORE, having in fome Shells found very hard Chalk,
and in others Flint-ftones of much larger fize than the Hole of the. Shell
could admir ; he thence infer'd, that thofe Subftances could not be re-
ceived therein any how, but when they were liquid or only in their firfl
Speck of Entity, and that afterwards they mufl have enlarg'd and har-
dened, in proportion as they came to maturity.

THIS great Philofbpher went further, and proved that Shells vege-
tate ; that by a kind of Fraternity between them and Stones, they mu-
tually incorporated the one with the other ; and that fometimes Stones
invelop'd the Germina of Shells, which had their Growth, fb inclos'd ; and
at other times the Shells cover'd over the Germina of Stones, which
throve in their bofom. He had Collections of both forts.

AS to the Vegetation of Metals, Minerals, Rock-Chryftal and pre-
cious Stones, M. Tournefort proved it evidently by divers Marcatfites,,
wherein Nature had taken pleafure to make a mixture no lefs curious than
humorous, of Sulphur, Vitriol, Iron, Copper, Marble and Chryftal,
Some more rich were ftreak'd with Threds of the pureft Gold and Sil-
ver, running through a fine Marble. Other Mar caffites, flill nobler than,
the laft, had a mixture of feveral Metals with precious Stones. In fome
you might fee Emeralds, Silver, or Copper enchas'd, and as it were incor-
porated.

xv i The Life of M. Tournefort.

porated together : in others, Rubies, Arnethifts, Topazes, or various
Stones of Value, which Nature had employ'd and mingled in the fame
manner. This excellent Naturalift had collected Pieces of each of the
Minerals, Metals, Marbles, Chryftals, and precious Stones of all Quali-
ties, and even of all the different Bakings that the Earth gives them.
Herein he had lb many convincing, tho filent Proofs of the Syftern he
propos'd, of the Formation and Growth of all thefe Bodies by way of
Vegetation. Thus, Sir, one might fay of all thefe Difcoveries made by
M. Tournefort, that he was fo watchful a Spy upon Nature, that at length
he found out her very Recipe in a vaft many of her Operations.

'TWAS not out of a vain Curiofity that he compofed his Cabinet,
which contain'd within it lelf feveral others o f different forts ; the whole
being of ineftimable value. Always taken up with his Defigns in Natural
Hiftory, he was much lefs ftudious about making it curious, than about
rendering it ufeful. Upon a due Examination of what feem'd in him to
be only bare [Amulement, there appear'd to be Labour and Views ; fo
that the Agreeable was mix'd with the Ufeful, and the Ufeful was found
even in what leaft feem'd to be fb.

WHAT I have been faying, is inanifeft From every thing in his Ca-
binet. The prodigious quantities of Plants that he had collected ; rare
Woods and Fruits ; the Druggery, confuting of above eight hundred
fimple and natural Remedies ; the perfect Collection of Shells, the molt
fingular in every kind ; the Minerals ; the Marcaffites ; the Metals ; the
precious Stones, the extraordinary and even die common ones ; the Pe-
trifications j the Congelations ; the different Corals ; the S.ea-Mufh-
rooms ; the Lithophites ; the feverai marine, maritime, and ftony Plants ■
the ftrange figured Horns of Animals ; the fcarce Infects, Reptiles,
Fifhes, Birds, Animals ; in a word, a great number of other things, which
in the eye of fome People might feem to be merely curious, all had their
Offices in Natural Hiftory. His Cabinet (if I may venture at fuch a
Metaphor) was a fecond Atky to which the Creatures, animate and in-
animate, were come to own themfelves as it were the Tributaries of him
who had brought them together; for each Piece, according to M. Tourne-
fort, had its Quota of Proofs to pay in.

4- HE

The Life of M. Tournefort. xvii

H E had formM a Defigu of writing an exact and methodical Hiftory
of all thefe Cuiiofities : but he was prevented by the Voyage into the
Levant, which he undertook in the Year 1 700, at the King's Command,
and under the Aufpices of M. the Count de Pontcbartrain. His Majefty
gave orders, that M. Tournefort mould carry with him a Painter, to take
the Views of the Places through which they mould pals, and to draw
(uch curious Plants, Animals, and other things, as he mould find in the
Courfe of his Journey. For this purpofe they pitchM upon M Jubriet,
an excellent Painter in Miniature ; and the Academy of Sciences named
for his Companion M. de Gundelfcheimer, a German Phyfician, excellently
skilPd in Botany.

M.TOVRNEFORT laid down a Plan for his Voyage truly worthy
the Prince that commanded it, and the Subject that performed it. His
Views in it were indeed almoft univerfal. As he knew himfelf to be a
Man as well as a Scholar, his Defign was to make his Travels as ufeful to
Mankind in general, as to the Sciences in particular.

ONE of his chief Objects was Geography; he propos'd to explain
the antient, and efpecially to rectify the modern. Not only Cities, but
whole Provinces, had changed their Names as often as their Matters.
The Sea had fwallow'd up many Iflands, taken notice of in antient Au-
thors. Others had appear'd fince, and confequently were unknown to
them. Whole Towns had been funk into the Earth, and Lakes formM
in their places. All theie Alterations were Co many Defects in Geogra-
phy, which M. Tournefort refolvM to rectify.

THE Advantages likely to accrue to Botanicks were not lefs confide-
rable. He allotted it for one of his ufeful Diverfions, to examine upon
the ipot whether what Tbeofbraftus, Diofcorides, Matthiolm, and leveral
other Authors, have written concerning Plants, were conformable to
Truth. His Exactnels ftrongly inclined him to inquire whether they
had not imposM upon Nature, or whether Nature her felf had not dege-
nerated fince their Obferyations.

IT had been accounted Temerity in any but M. Tournefort, fo much

as to doubt of what the Antients have once faid : But the Sequel has

fully juftifyM his Doubts, which were as laudable as ufeful. Antiquity, in

this Article, has gatherM no advantage from its Priority of Birth:

Vol. I. b M.

xviii The L i f e of M. Tournefort.

M. Tournefort has fet it right upon many occafions. Thofc antient Au-
thors had falfify'd Nature, with a view perhaps of etnbelifhing her :
M. Tourwfort's Obfervations have in a manner reftored her to her felf •
me has in his hands recover'd that true fimple Beauty, which ought to
ihine in her.

I N more, his Intention in his Voyage was to collect every thing in
general that was worthy his Attention in all kinds of Sciences, or which
might any ways ferve to enrich the Study of Phyfick and the Common-
wealth of Learning.

ALMOST three Years were fpent in thefe learned Travels. As
Botanicks were his chief Delight, he fimpled in all the Iflands of the
Archipelago, upon the Coafts of the Black Sea, in Bithynia, Pontm, Cap-
j>adocia, Armenia, Georgia, quite to the Confines of Perjia. In his Return
he took a different Road, in hopes of rinding new Subjects of Obferva-
tion, and came home by Galatia, Mjfia, Lydia, and Ionia.

HIS Reading had already furniih'd him with fuch , a full Know-
ledge of all thofe Countries, that when he came there he found himfelf
as it were naturalized in each by his Learning. So that he was the pro-
pereft Man in the world to examine the Truth of whatever had been
related of them extraordinary, and to difcover what before had efcaped
the Inquiries of Travellers..

PHYSICK, which he pra&is'd with the moft perfect Difmtereft a-
mong the Rich, and with extreme Charity towards the Poor, gave him
entrance every where- By this means he found great helps towards
the Accomplishment of his Defigns, to which the Cuftoms of thole
Countries were very contrary. But his perfonal Merit, and the Obliga-
tions he laid on the People he had to do with, eafily made them forget
he was a Stranger. We may fafely affirm, he omitted nothing that
might fupport with dignity the Glory of the Prince, at whofe command
he undertook his Travels.. He was obliged to put an end to them, and
to embark at Smjma for France, with the regret of not being able to go
into Egypt and Syria, upon account of the contagious Diflempers
which then infected thole Countries.

I F it had been in M. Toumeforfs power to have compleated his mighty
Defigns, and feen all the Places he intended, how vaftly had Phyfick

% been

The Life of M. Tournefort. xix

been enrichM by it ! Tho he faw but part, yet we owe to him the Know-
ledge of Thirteen Hundred Fifty Six Plants which he brought home with
him, and which before were never heard of. Some of them fell naturally
into the Genera he had before given an account of. All the trouble he was
at to entertain thefe new Botanical Guefls, was to form Five and Twenty
new Genera, under which he mufter'd fuch Plants as did not agree with
any of thofe he had before eftablifh'd. Of thefe he compos'd a Book,
intitled, Corollarium Inflitutionum Rei Herbaria. And in order to immor-
talize his Gratitude to his Protectors, and his Affection to his particular
Friends, he gave their Names to many of thofe Plants that wanted them.

WHAT he further difcover'd relating to Stones, could not but im-
prove his Syflem of their Vegetation. The Defcription he read to the
Academy of Sciences of a Labyrinth which is in the Ifland of Ca»diay
and the Reflections he join'd to it, have carry'd that Syftem up to a Cer-
tainty. He had obferv'd, that in many parts of that Labyrinth there were
written upon the Walls, which are a quick Rock and of a greyiih colour,
the Names of People who had been there, and that the Letters were of a
much whiter colour than the Stone whereon they were cut. Thefe
Names could have been carved in the Rock no way but with the Chizzel,
and yet they jutted out about two lines in fome places, and three in
others : fo that the Letters, which at flrft were hollow, are now become
embofTed. Hence he infer'd, that the nutritious Juice of the Stone being
extravafated, and finding thofe Fractures where there was an Interruption
of the Fibres, had made a kind of Callofky ; in the fame manner as it
happens to Trees, whereon any Letters have been cut or graved. He
waS'fatisfy'd, that it was the lame natural Mechanifin which produced
the like Effects in both, and that this Mechanifin could be nothing but
Vegetation.

T O add fome further Proofs to thofe already related, M. Tournefort
fhew'd, that the Stones which we call Jmmon' s-Horns, Eagle-Stones,
Toad-Stones, Pyrites whether oval or cylindrical, Judaick-Stones, Ser-
pents-Eyes, Aftroite, Boulogne, Florence-Stones, which always reprefent
the fame Landfchapes, and the fame ruinated Towns ; the Dendroides,
or a fort of Agate which reprefents Sea-Coafts, Fortifications, Shrubs,
or Landfchapes ; all Rock-Chryflals cut in Panes, or with feveral Faces ;

b 2 in

xx The Life of M. Tournefort

in a word, many other Stones could come only of Germintt particular to
each of them. The reafon he gives for this Opinion, is, that they all
retain the fame Figures, and are always organized exactly in the fame
manner, each after its Species. From this Principle he concludes, that
it was a proof that thefe Stones always produced their like, in the lame
manner as each Plant and Tree follow the Species of the Germen in
which they are inclofed ; Nature never making any miftake, and always
diftributing to them like a common Mother the Juices neceilary for their
Increafe and Vegetation.

THIS Syftem was ftrengthen'd by feveral Stones which M. Tournefort
produced; they had been broken, in all probability, at the time of the
rifing of their Sap : and Nature herfelf had pieced them together again
by a Solder, which was nothing but a Callofity form'd by the nutritious
Juice of thofe Stones, which after having rejoin'd and glu'd the pieces,
had cover' d 'em over again for about the thicknefs of half a line : nay,
fome were found, which in their rejoining had inclofed fome Rock-
Chryftals and fmall Diamonds.

THE Hardnels of Stone might ferve as a pretence for Incredulity touch-
ing the Filtration of the nutritious Juice through their Pores. To remove
this, M, Tournefort obferv'd, that the Heart of BM-s/7-Wood, Iron- wood,
Guaiacum, Ebony, and fome other Woods, the Bones of fome Animals and
Fiffies, equal'd, if not exceeded, the Hardnels of Stones. That neverthelefs
'twas unconteftably true, that thofe Trees and thofe Bones received Nou-
rifhment, the one from the Juices of the Earth, and the others from the
Subftance of the Animal of which they made part.

1 H E further fupported this Opinion, by taking notice that the hardeft
Stones, Marble, Porphyry, Jewels, and even Diamonds, have a Thred
and Veins, which make 'em eafier to cut one way than another ; which
{hews that they really have Pores, tho thofe Pores are very compact
and imperceptible. If, fays he, we have not hitherto been able to
find the Gertnina. of Stones, flony Plants, Shells, Minerals or Metals ;
that is no manner of reafon for denying their Exiftence : fince it is cer-
tain, we have not yet difcover'd any Seeds of Mufhrooins, Nightfhades,
Truffles, Moffes, nor of a great many other Plants ; tho in good Phy-
ficks nothing comes but by Generation in matter of Plants, as in matter
of Animals and Infects. THUS,

The Life of M. Tournefort. xxt

THUS, Sir, M.Tournefort may be call'd the Reflorer of the Syftem
of the Vegetation of Stones, and the Founder of that of Univerfal Ve-
getation.

AFTER having learnedly explained the Formation of thefe various
Works of Nature, he gave a defcription of feveral deep Grottos which
he had feen in the Courfe of his Travels. Among the different Orna-
ments with which Nature had embelifli'd thofe fubterranean Palaces?
M. Tournefort found a cylindrical Block of Marble, which had been
broken through the middle. ■ He obferv'd, that in this Marble you might
diftinguiih the Heart, the Bark, a kind of Sap, and even feveral different
Saps, which might plainly be known by feveral Circles, each iome lines
thick, that furrounded it. By this one might come to know the Age of
this Marble, as we know the Age of Trees by the like Circles, when,
they have been cut diametrically.

THESE Grottos were befides enrich'd with Congelations and Chryf-
tallizations mofl perfectly beautiful, and irregularly adorn'd with an
agreeable, tho confufed Mixture, of all kinds of Metals, Marbles, and
Rock-Chryftals incorporated together. Several different pieces, which
he brought home with him, were the proof he alledg'd to demonftrate
the Fluidity, or at leaft the Supplenefs, of all thefe Bodies at their For-
mation, which continues in part as long as they are flanding upon their
Stocks in the Bowels of the Earth. And as in all thefe things M. Tourne-
fort feem'd to have become Nature's Confident without asking her Con-
fent, fb he thought he had a right to betray her for our benefit, by making
her Miracles familiar.

LASTLY, Having proved every thing that he had advanced, he was
willing to give it Authority from the Teftimonies of Authors facred and
profane. He did fb by a PafTage in Tliny the Naturalift, who informs u?y
that Theophraflus and Mutianus fancy 'd that Stones produce other Stones :
and by a PafTage of St. Gregory Naz,ianz,eny where this Father maintains,
that many Authors had written that Stones made love to each other. This
Love, tho very cold, is neverthelefs fruitful ; fince from the Creation of
the firft Stones, the Race has been perpetuated to this day ; and every
one of 'em has preferv'd its Species, in the fame manner as the Trees
and Plants have done.

AS

xxii The Life of M. Tournefort.

AS the Birth and Generation of Stones had taken up M. Tourneforfs
Meditations, fo the Caufes of their Deftru&ion feem'd to him to deferve
to do the fame. He made exact Obfervations upon the Lithophagi, a
Name given to certain little Worms, which fubfift by gnawing of -Stones.
One would think it no eafy matter to perfuade one's felf that Stones can
have Inhabitants, and even ferve them for Food as well as Habitation.
And yet both thefe Wonders are certain ; and Stones have in them a fort
of little Republicks of thefe Worms, which feed upon them. They are
covered with a very minute Shell, greenifh and afh-colour'd ; and the
Cavities thefe make by gnawing the Stones, are what the Vulgar afcribe
to the Impreflion of the Moon.

THE different Countries M. Tournefort had journey'd through, furnifli'd
hiin with Subjects for feveral particular DilTertations. Among others, he
has treated of the Ifland of Milo, where, as in moft of the Iflands of
the JrcbipeUgOy they cannot ripen the Garden-Figs but by the Punctures
of certain Infects, which are form'd in the Wild-Figs, and which they
carry on purpofe to the Trees that produce the former, that thole Infects
may prick the Fruit in order to ripen it.

AFTERWARDS he explain'd the Caufe of the fubterranean Fires
which are in that Ifland ; and he afcribes them to the Filtration of the
Sea-Water, which infinuating through the Pores of the Earth, wets the
Iron-Mines that abound in it, and there caufes violent Bubblings, by the
Sea-Salt that mixes with them, and makes them take fire. This Thought
lias been found true, by various Experiments made by the moft able
Chymifts.

WHILE he was making all thefe curious Obfervations, his beloved
Study was not forgot. The Diftempers of Plants and Trees had a due
ihare of his Inquiries. He afcribes the Caufe of them either to the too
great Abundance, or to the Want, or to the unequal Diftribution of the
nutritious Juices ; or elfe to the bad Qualities thofe Juices may contract ;
orlaftly, to divers exterior Accidents.

WHO would imagine, Sir, that a Tree could be fuffbcated? This at
firft feems incredible ; and yet M. Tournefort has ihewn, that the Over-
abundance of Nutriment produces this Effect in certain Trees, becaufe it
clods in the Veffels, and there flops ; fo that the new Juices which rife

from

The Life of M. Tournefort xxiii

from the Root, finding thofe Paflages obftructed, get by little and little
to the Channels form'd like a wreathed Pillar, and which are as it were the
Lungs of Plants : there they hinder the PafTage of the Air; and the Cir-
culation being thus intercepted, the Tree is fuffocated and dies, in the
fame manner as an Animal that is ftifled.

AS to the feveral exterior Accidents that caufe the Diftempers of
Plants, M. Tournefort fpecifies Ibme few of them.

THE fuft is Hail ; it bruiies the Fibres, and then caufes a fort of
Obftructions ; which are much lefs confiderable when the Hail is mix'd
with Rain, becaufe the Water makes thofe Fibres more fupple, which in
fome meafure deadens the Blow, and gives room to the Juices to flow
with greater eafe.

THE lecond is Frofl ; which kills them, becaufe the watry Particles
of the Juices being condens'd in their Pores, fplits and tears them, as
Water frozen breaks the VefTel which contains it.

THE third is Mouldinefs ; it has been difcover'd by the affiftance of
the Microfcope, that this is nothing but the birth of a multitude of little
Plants, which are ne'er the lefs real, tho they efcape our fight. They
have their Leaves, their Flowers, and their Fruits. I have feen of them,
Sir, which have round Flowers, confuting of fix Leaves ; fome with Buds
half open ; and others, which after having been fome time blown, were
faded away. They are little Parafites, that fuck away part of the Sub-
fiance allotted by the Earth for the Nutriment of the Plant to which
they adhere. Yet the greateft mifchief they do to a Plant, is not their
fubfifling at its cofl : But as their Roots are very flender, they infinuate
into the Partitions of the Pores, and enlarge them ; which produces a
Rottennefs or Gangrene, that kills the Plant if not timely remedy'd.

THE other Accidents are the Punctures of various Infects. As they
depofite their Eggs in the holes which they pierce in the Plants, thofe Eggs-
caufe Tumours there; thefe little Fractures occafioning the fhedding of
the nutritious Juices, which run into the neighbouring Pores, and make
them fwell in proportion as they dilate their Fibres. What alfb hinders
the Juices from returning their ordinary Courfe, is the little Obftructions
that the Depofite of the Eggs of thofe Infects caufes in the Pores of
the Plant. This is the Original of Gail-Nuts, Sage-Apples, Picea-Hives,

and:

xxiv The Life of M. Tournefort.

and feveral other Tubercula, that grow upon the Thiftle, Eglantine
and alnioft all Turpentine-Trees ; whole Juices being very vifcous, re-
fume their Courfe with greater difficulty than thofe of other Trees when
once they are diverted.

M. TOV RNEFORT did not think it fufficient to have found out
the Dillempers of Plants, and penetrated their Caufes, unlefs he alfodif-
cover'd the Symptoms by which they may be known, the Method of
preventing them, and the Remedies proper to cure them : all this he has
very exactly explain'd, being no lefs their Phyfician than their Anato-
anift. Thele Inquiries are not barely curious, they may be reckou'd
fome part of his Profelhon ; fince by preventing and curing the Dillem-
pers of Plants, he puts them in a better condition of preventing and
curing the Dillempers of Man. I believe, Sir, 'twill not be thought ex-
travagant to fay upon this, that M. Tournefort feem'd to be the Genius of
Botany and of Medicine ; I dare not go Co far, as to call him that of Phy-
ficks and of Nature.

N O leis fond of the Difcoveries of others, than capable of making
them himfelf ; he took particular pleafure in reading to the Academy of
Sciences an Anatomical DiiTertation upon the Cailors of Canada. There
was alio in it an account of all the Actions of thofe amphibious Crea-
tures ; their way of living, building, and defending themfelves againil
Inundations ; their Cunning and their Stratagems ; and, if we may ufe
fuch Exprefllons, their Manners and Polity. He had this curious Piece
of M. Sarrazin, Royal Phyfician in Canada, and one of his Correfpon-
dents for Science in America.

THIS, Sir, is but part of what I gather'd from M. Tournefor^s Con-
version at various times. 'Twould be a Work of too great length to
relate all the other things which he dilcover'd and dilcours'd of.

HIS Voyage into the Levant, which will make two Volume* in
Quarto, now printing at the Louvre, gives a thorow Knowledge oi tl e
Man; the two Volumes contain twenty two Letters, wherein he lends
M. de Pontcbartraw an exact Account of all the Countries through
which he travel'd.

I F this were a Poetical Epiflle, I fhould tell you, that every Letter is
as it were, enamefd with an agreeable Variety of Subje&s. It contains

j. Remarks

The Life of M. Tournefort. xxv

Remarks upon the Situation and Geographical Pofition of the Towns,
upon their Origin, the Nature of their Climate, and their different
Names j Obfervations upon the Manners, Cuftoms, Religion, and Dif-
tempers of the People ; and a Defcription of the rare Plants, Animals,
Filhes, and Birds which he found, as well as of the Antiquities he faw.

SO many painful Travels, no lefs glorious to M. Tournefort than ad-
vantageous to the Commonwealth of Learning, gain'd him at his Return
particular Marks of Diftinction from the King. That Prince enter'd with
fo much Goodnefs into the Fatigues and Dangers M. Tournefort had un-
dergone, that he bemoan'd him, and even condelcended to let him know
it by word of mouth.

SOME little time afterwards, his Majefly gave him the Chair of Pro-
felTor in Phyfick at the College-Royal. I mould not affect, "Sir, to fpeak
of the advantageous Polls wherewith M. Tournefort was intruded, if his
fole Merit had not rais'd him to them. Nay, I fhould bury in filence the
Offer that was made to him of the Place of Firit Phyfician to the King
of Spain, if his Refufal of it did not fhew what a Love he had for his
Country, and how little he was ambitious. Wholly poffefs'd with a De-
fire of improving the different Sciences he cultivated, he thought of
nothing but how he might make himfelf yet more worthy of the Favours
which the King had been pleas'd to heap upon him. He believed it
would be to throw- up bis Duty with relation to his Prince, to be want-
ing to his own Family, and to abandon his Friends, if he fhould accept
of this Place, tho ever fo honourable. And indeed 'twould have been
robbing his Country of an Honour that was her Right, had he enrich'd
any other Climate with his Refearches and Dilcoveries.

A S he had always labour'd to increafe them, they could not but pro-
duce him the Advantages which they richly deferv'd. M. the Abbot Big-
non took him for his Phyfician, and fhew'd by this Choice the value he
fet upon his Merit and Capacity : A Preference like this, exceeds an Elo-
gium. It is. certain, he could not trull his Health to the hands' of any
Man that better knew the Confequence of it, or was more capable of
preferving it. M. Tournefort gave very eiTential Proofs of what I fay ,
and they flill increaie our Grief for lofing him, fince to him we owe the
Prcfervation of that illuflrious Magiftrate, who may be look'd upon as
Vol. I. c the

y

xxvi The L i f e of M. Tournefort.

the protecting Genius of two famous Academics, which he every day
renders more arid more flourilhing.

A VAST many Peribns of Diftinction, both of the Court and City
had the like Confidence in M.Tournefort. His conftant Vifitation of the
Sick, his Attention to the Accounts of their Illnefs, and his Skill in
judging by Symptoms, gave him a wonderful Juftnefs and Exactnefs in
what he prefcribed to them. He charm'd away the Melancholy and
Pain of his Patients, by a Converfation extremely agreeable, and always
adapted to the Condition wherein he found them. By this means he
reftored their Minds to a State of Tranquillity, and feem'd to Impend
their Ailment. So that his Converfation may be faid to be his firft Me-
dicine ; it might almoft vie with thofe which Reading and Experience
had taught him : and producing upon the Mind what his Prefcriptions
did upon the Body, he may be accounted the Phyfician of both.

AN unexpected Accident was the caufe of his Death. As he
Was going to the Academy of Sciences, he had his Breaft violently
fqueez'd by the Axle-tree of a Cart which he could not avoid ; and if
one of his Friends had not immediately run to his afllftance, that fatal
Moment had been the laft of his Life. This gave him a fpitting of
Blood, which he flighted; His too great Exactnefs in acquitting him-
felf of all his Duties, made him continue, notwithflanding this ill State
of his Health, to read his Botanick LefTons at the Garden of Simples, his
LefTons of Phyfick at the College-Royal, and to labour at the Account
of his Voyage.

S O that his own Skill and Experience became equally ufelefs to him.
He hearkenM more to his own Zeal than to the Advice of his Friends ;
and in order to perform what he reckon'd the Duties of the Polls he
held, neglected what he ow'd to himfelf : fb that he may be truly call'd
the Decim of the Republick of Letters, fince he devoted himfelf to
death for her Service.

HIS Health was too far gone to be recover'd. After having lan-
guiflfd fome months, he died of a Dropfy in his Breaft, the 28th of De-
cember 1708, aged Fifty Three Years, with fmcere Piety, and profound
Sentiments of Humility. He was too great a Philosopher, and too well
acquainted with the Secrets of Nature, not to acknowledge the Author

thereof ;

The Life of M. Tournefort. xxvii

thereof; and too deeply penetrated with the Greatnefs of Religion, not
to adore both its Obje<ft and Principle.

BY his laft Will and Teftament he befought the King to do him the ho-
nour to accept of his Cabinet. It was worthy of being prefented to him ;
finceby containing the Proofs of fo many Syftems, it had fully fatisfy'd the
Curiofity of the Learned in divers Nations, and of feveral foreign Princes,
and drawn the principal Perfons of the Court to come and admire it.
His Majefty was pleas'd to receive this Prefent, and gratify'd M. Tourne-
fort's Nephew with a Penfion of a thoufand Livres, to fherv him (thefe
are the very Words of the Warrant) his Majejlfs Satisfaction in the Services
of bis Vncle, and even to make him fome fort of Recommence for the Legacy
he had bequeathed him.

M. TOV RNEFO RT believing he could give the compleat Col-
lection he had made of Botanical Books to no Man that was better ac-
quainted with their Value, than M. the Abbot Bignon ; he left them to
him, that they might have a place in that choice and numerous Library
which his Knowledge in all the Sciences is every day increafing with
new Riches.

ASM. Tournefort had always been perfuaded that Celibacy was the
Condition moil: irritable to a Man of Learning, he kept it all his life,
for fear the Cares of a Family fliould rob him of fome of thofe Moments
which he devoted wholly to Study ; well knowing that the Sciences are
jealous, and do not love to have Partners in their Votaries Hearts.

THE Fruit of his Travels and Obfervations were found in the Manu-
fcripts he left behind him : one is intitled, Botanical Topography, or a Ca-
talogue of the Plants he had obferv'd in divers places, from the Year
1676, to 1690, in 'Provence, Languedoc, the Alps, the Pyrenees, in Spain,
and in Portugal. He fets down precifely in what Kingdom, what Pro-
vince, and near what Town each Plant grows. So that to lee how he
cantons them out in each Country, one would be apt to fay, that they
are lb many Botanical Conquefts, the Glory of which is wholly owing
to his Inquiries.

H E had alfo compofed another Work, which he intended to publifh
with the Title of Phntaram Adverfar'u : it is a univerfal and critical

c 2 Hiftory

xxviii - The Life of M. Tournefort.

Hiftory of Plants, wherein he ranges them alphabetically, collects all
that the moil skilful Botanifts have faid of each, relates the difference of
their Opinions, and adds his own, which may ferve as a Decifion to
theirs.

HIS Botanical Lectures at the Royal Garden will make a Volume no
lefs curious. A Learned Englfiman, who calls himfelf Simon Wbartony
has publifh'd part of them with the Title of Scbola Botanica, five Cata-
logus Plant arum^ &c. I have feen one of thofe Books, wherein M. Tour-
nefort has made feveral Corrections and Additions in his own Hand-
writing, and in one place writes that this Englifhrnan's true Name was
William Sberard. My Father has put it into his Library, with the reft of
M. Toarnefort's Works, of which he made him a Prefent.

IN turning over his Manufcripts, I found, befides thofe already fpoken
of, a Volume of Obfervations upon the Analyfis of feveral Plants, fpe-
cifying their Natures and Qualities, which he learnt by his Chymical
Experiments.

I F O R G O T to mention, that he had made it his method to divide
his Botanical Coarfe into one and thirty Demonftrations. He defcribed
about a hundred Plants in the Courfe of each. About feven and twenty
of them were for Plants, and four for Trees, and for marine and maritime
Plants. In the fame Idea he divided his Hiflory of the Plants that grow
about Paris into fix Herborizations. And as he therein writes of Plants,
which in company with his Difciples he had found and obferv'd in fix
different Days, might not that Book be call'd the Botanical Hexameron ?

THESE Pieces, which are Works of immenfe Labour, give the
Commonwealth of Learning an exact account of every Moment of
M. Tournefort's Life ; and I believe I may add, that the Sciences he cul-
tivated cannot upbraid him with the leafl Fault of Omiflion in any thing
that concern'd them.

, DOES not what I have faid of his Works, require, Sir, that I
fhould add fomething touching his Perfon ? The Quality of Scholar,
which he carry'd fo far, was certainly the leafl he pofTefs'd. It was
impoflible to know him without efleeming him. Jealoufy itfelf, in thofe
that were fufceptible of it, did him honour \ fince it fuppofes an Efteem

% which

The L i f e 'of M. Tournefort. xxix

which a Man feels in fpite of himfelf. So that his Envycrs (without
defign) have only hclp'd to coniecrate his Merit, by declaring that he
was worthy to be envy'd.

T O the Knowledge of the hatin and Greek, he join'd that of the
Spanifi and Julian. He was as laborious, as his Genius was vaft. La-
Vifli of the Treafures of his Capacity, he beftow'd them liberally, and
(which is moft rarely to be met with) free from all Oftentation. Loving
to adorn himfelf inwardly, better than to mine externally ; he ftudy'd
rather to deferve Applaufe, than to obtain it. The things he faid, great
in themfelves, and naturally beautiful, had no occafion for foreign Or-
naments. His Converfation had thofe genuine Charms, which pleafe
before one takes notice of their doing fo : one perceiv'd their Effect
only upon Reflection ; and the delight one took in hearing him, was-
juftify'd by the Inftrudtion arifing from it.

A S he had cultivated his excellent Talents by prodigious Study, there
was in him an agreeable Mixture of Nature and of Art, which could not
be diftinguilh'd, but which never fail'd to pleafe.

WAS he to difcourfe of Plants? As dry as that Subject appears in
itfelf, he lent it a thoufand Ornaments, which one would not imagine
it to be capable of; he in a manner had the art of metamorphofing it :
And we may juftly fay of him, in the words of our modern Horace, as
well in a proper as figurative Senie, that from Bryars and Thiflles he
gather'd Rofes and Pinks.

BUT whatever Subject he handled, Nature feem'd to have given him
a particular Title to a good Reception of whatever he faid. She inter-
fpers'd it with a certain Agreeablenefs, which fhe alone can beftow, and
which fhe never grants but to her Favourites. In a word, fire bad
blefs'd him with it in fuch abundance, that it quite effaced the feeming.
Negligence with which he deliver'd himfelf; for he was as fimple in his
way of Speaking, as he was fublime in Thinking and Writing.

N O leis profound than juft in his Reafonings, a true Philofbpher, a
good Geometrician, an attentive Anatomift, an exact Chymift, a pene-
trating Naturalift ; in every thing he undertook, the Excellence of his
Tafte would never allow him to reft beneath Perfection. As great as is

his

xxx The Life of M. Tournefort.

his \Reputation, it is ftill very much below the Truth. He was a Man
iu his kind more than Rare ; he was a None-fuch.

AFTER having faid fo much of his Mind, I mould never forgive
my felf, Sir, if I were filent concerning his Heart. The Qualities of the
one exceeded in him the Talents of the other. He was a good Kink
man, a faithful Friend, a zealous Citizen ; incapable of the leaf! Jealoufy
of Great Men • iilPd with a prudent Emulation, that ftirr'd him up to
imitate them ; a fond Lover of them ; always juft and equitable ; a Fol-
lower of Truth, as much through Inclination as Duty, as well in his
Words as in his Writings, wherein his Exactnefs exceeded even to Scrupu-
loufnefs; circumfpedt, more than can be exprefs'd, in the Prefcription
and Compofition of his Medicines, which he made up himfelf, for the
greater fafety ; difinterefted, generous, born left for himfelf than for his
Friends, whom he obliged without ihew of fo doing, endeavouring to
hide it, if pofiible, even from himfelf. Accordingly, he died beloved
and relpecied of the Learned of all Nations ; efteem'd by the Great and
Rich, bewail'd by the Poor, having always been obliging to the one
charitable with profufion to the others ; ufeful to all.

THE Praifes he has received from a vaft many People whole Merit is
equal to their Quality, and the Grief he has coft them, are the moll elo-
quent Panegyricks : After which, it is impoilible to add any thing to
that Happinefs which may be enjoy'd in this World by a Man that no
longer exifts in it.

H E deferv'd them fb much the more, becaufe %; never courted them.
A true Modefty crown'd all his other Virtues. To conclude, he was
Matter of fo many excellent Qualities, there was no knowing him
thorowly. So that, if .we may venture to praife him at the expence
of the Sciences which ware lb dear to him, we may lay, He was a
Man that was to be ftudy'd with as much care, as he himfelf ftudy'd
Nature.

I WISH, Sir, this Account may anfwer your Expectation, and the
Reverence I pay to the Memory of M. Tonrmfort. I ihall think niy-
felf but too happy, if in fome of thofe precious Moments which you

* fet

The Life of M. Tournefort.

fet apart for Reading, I can in fome Imall meafure alleviate thofe
Pains and Labours, which the Good of the State and his Majefly's
Service require from you. I have the Honour to be with Reipeft,

XXXI

SIRt

Tour molt Humble and

Moji Obedient Servant*

Lauthieiu

r h e

( xxxii )

::.

i-

wm'wwwwwmwwmwwm'ww^wT^^wwwwwm^wmw^

THE

E LO G I U M

O F

M. TOURNEFORT-.

By M.Fontenelle, Perpetual Secretary of
the Royal Academy of Sciences, and one of
the Forty of the French Academy.

gOSEPH PITTON DE TOVRNEFORT was born at

dix in Provence, the fifth of June 1656. His Father, Peter

Iglll Pitton Efq; was Lord of Tournefort : his Mother, Aimare de

Fagoue, was a Gentleman's Daughter of Paris.
H E went to School to the Jefuits of Aix ; but tho they put him fblely
upon the Study of Latin, as they did all the other Scholars, yet the
moment he call his eye on the Vegetable Part of the Creation, he felt
himfelf a Botanift : He was for knowing the names of the leveral Plants,
and criticizing on their Differences ; and fometimes would mils his School,
to go a fimpling in the Fields, and to ftudy Nature inftead of the Lan-
guage of the antient Romans. Mod of thofe who have excell'd in any
one thing, have done it without a Mafter ; this was his Cafe : in a very

fhort

An Elogium on M. Tournefort. xxxiii

fliort fpace of time he acquir'd of himfclf the Knowledge of all the
Plants about the City of Jix.

WHEN they enter'd him in Philofophy, he took but little liking to
that which they taught him : inftead of Nature, which he fo much de-
lighted to obferve, he faw nothing but loofe abftracled Ideas, that lie by
the fide of things, as 'twere, but never touch 'em. In his Father's Clo-
fet he lit of the Philofophy of Defcartes, and prelently found it to be
what he wanted, tho but in fhiall efteem at that time in Provence. He
never could get to read it but by Health ; his Father debarring him from
fo ufcful a Study, made him the more eager on't, and thus unwittingly
gave him an excellent Education. Deligning him for the Church, he
made him ftudy Theology, nay, put him into a Seminary. But natural
Deftination prevail'd. Nothing could hinder him from profecuting his
favourite Study, either in the Gardens of Aix> or in the adjacent Fields,
or among the Rocks and Cliffs.

H E had very near as great a Paflion for Anatomy and Chymiftry, as
for Botany. In fliort, Natural Philofophy purfu'd her Claim to him lb
vigoroufly, that flie loon ejected Theology, which had unjuftly gain'd
pofleffion of him. He was encouraged by the example of an Uncle of
his, a very able Phyfician, and in great vogue : his Father's death too,
which happen'd in 1677, left him intirely free to follow his own Incli-
nation. And accordingly the very next Year he perambulated the Moun-
tains oiD-xufoiny and Savoy, from whence he brought a great many choice
Plants, which began his Herbal.

BOTANY is not a fedentary idle Science, that can be attain'd at
one's eafe by the Fire-fide, like Geometry, Hiftory, &c. A Botanill
muftlcour the Mountains and Forelts, climb lieep Rocks and PreciDices,
venture down AbylTes. The only Books that can thorowly inftrudt m
this matter, are fcatter'd up and down the whole Face of the Earth, and
not to be gather'd up without fatigue and peril. Hence comes it that lb
few excel in this Science : a degree of Paflion fufEcient to make a Vir-
tuofo of another kind, is not fuificient for making a great Botanill: ; be-
fides, there is required a Stock of Health that can follow it, a Strength
!bf Body to anfwer it. M. fotirhefor'tH' Conftitution was lively, laborious,
athletick ; an exhauftlefs Fund of unaffe&ed Gayety fupporred him in
,r VoI-J d his

xxxiv An Elogium on M. Tournefort.

his Travels, and both in Body and Mind he was cut out for a Bo-
tanift.

IN 1679, he began his Journey to Montpeltier, where he greatly im-
prov'd himielf in Anatomy and Medicine. Tho the Phyfick-Garden
which Henry IV. founded in this City, abounds with great Variety of
Plants, it fell fhort of M. Tournefort' 's Expectation : he went about ga-
thering Phyflcal Herbs for above ten Leagues round Mont pettier, and
brought with him a noble Crop of Vegetables unknown to the very
Natives of the Place. But even thefe Walks being too confined to fatisfy
his Curiofity, he fetout for Barcelona in April 168 1 ; and arriving in the
Mountains of Catalonia, he was referred to and follow'd by the Phyfi-
cians of the Country and young Students in Medicine, jufl: like the an-
tient Gymnofophifts, who led their Difciples into the Defarts, where they
kept their Schools.

THE high Mountains of the Pyrenees were too near, not to tempt
him to pay them a Vifit. Yet he well knew, that all the Subfiftence he
mould meet with in thole vail: Solitudes would be mere Hermit's Fare ;
and the wretched Inhabitants, from whom he was to have even that,
were fewer in number than the Robbers that haunt thofe places. Many
a time was he flript by the Spanifb Miquelets; which at laflr put him
upon a Contrivance how to conceal a little Mony on iuch occafions : he
inclos'd Ibme Ryals in a Loaf of Bread fb black and hard, that as fharp-
fighted and ravenous as the Rogues were, they never took it from him,
nor fulpedted the Deceit. His predominant Inclination made him fur-
mount every thing ; thofe frightful and almoft inaccefTible Rocks which
lurrounded him on every fide, were in his eye a magnificent Library,
wherein he had the pleafure to find whatever his Curiofity required, and
where he pafs'd his time mod delicioufly.

TOWARD the Clofe of the Year 1681, he return'd to Montpeltier,
and from thence went home to Aix ; where he diftributed into his Her-
bal all the Plants he had pick'd up in Provence, Languedoc, Dauphiny
Catalonia, the Alps and the Pyrenees. Every body can't conceive that
the pleafure of feeing fuch numbers of 'em, all intire, in perfect good
condition, orderly difoos'd in large Books of white Paper, was to him a
fufficient Recompence for whatever they had coft him.

M.

An Elogium on M. Tournefort. xxxv

M. VAGON, the Queen's chief Phyfician, was always very ftudious
of Plants, as one of the mod curious Parts of Natural Philofophy, and
the mod effential of Medicine. M. Tournefort* s Name reach'd him from
fo many different places, and (till with fo much uniformity, that he was
defirous to get him to Paris, the general Rendevouz of almoft all the
bright Spirits of the Kingdom. To this end, he fpoke to Madam VeneUe,
Sub-Governefs to the Dauphin's Children, who was well acquainted with
M. Toumeforfs Family. She wrote to him to come to Pari*, and in 1685
prefented him to M. Fagon, who that very Year procured him the Place
of Botanick ProfelTor in the Royal Garden of Plants, eftablifh'd by
Lewis XIII. for the Inftrudtion of young Students in Medicine.

THIS Employ did not prevent his going feveral Voyages. IviAnda-
lufta, a Country abounding with Palm-Trees, he endeavour'd to find out
the truth of what has been fo long talk'd of, concerning the Amours of
the Male and Female Palm, but could difcover nothing certain ; fo that
thole antient Amours, if any fuch there be, continue ftill a Myftery.
In Holland and England he gain'd the Efteem of many famous Botanifts :
infomuch that M. Herman, the celebrated ProfefTor of Botany at Leyden,
would fain have refign'd his Place to him. He wrote to M. Tournefort,
in the beginning of the lafl War, very preffingly to accept of it : his
Love to the Science he profefs'd, made him chufe for a SuccefTbr, one that
was not only a Foreigner, but of a Nation then in enmity with his own.
He promis'd M. Tournefort a Penfion of 4000 Livres from the States-
General, with hopes of an Augmentation when he was better known.
Tho the Stipend belonging to the Place he was then in, was but a very
flender one, yet out of love to his Country he refufed fo advantageous a
Proffer. He added to this another Reafon, among Friends, namely, That
he thought the Sciences were at leaft in as high a degree of Perfection in
Trance, as in any other Country. That's not a Virtuofo's true Country,
where the Sciences don't flourifh : His was not ungrateful. The Aca-
demy of Sciences being in 1691 intruded to the Care of the Abbot Big-
non ; one of the firft Inftances he gave of his Authority, was to afTociate
into this Company Meflieurs Tournefort and Homberg, tho he knew nei-
ther of them but by Fame.

d 2 IN

xxxvi An Elogium on M. Tournefort.

IN 1694^ appear'd M. Tourneforfs firft Work, intided, The Elements of
Botanyy printed at the Louvre in three Volumes. The Defign of it is to
bring into order that prodigious number of Plants fo confufedly fcatter'd
all oyer the Earth, and even beneath the Waters of the Sea ; and to diftri-
bute them into Genera and Species, ib as to. make the Knowledge of
'em cafy, and fpare the Memory from being overloaded with infinite num-
bers of Names. This Order, fo necefTary,, is no way eftablifh'd by Na-
ture's felf, who has prefer'd a noble Confufion to the Conveniency of the
Philofophers. And 'tis their bufinefs, almoft in her defpight, to difpofe
the Vegetable World into Method, and form a Syftem of Plants. As
this mull: needs be a Work of the Brain, 'tis eafily forefeen there will
be Contrariety of Opinions, nay, that fome will be for no Syftem at all.
That which has been pitch'd upon by M. Tournefort, after a long and
learned Difcuffion, confifts in regulating the Genus of Plants by their
Flower and Fruit put together ; that is, all Plants which are refembling in
thole two particulars, mall be of the lame Genus : after which, the Diffe-
rences, whether of the Root, the Stalk, or Leaves, mall conftitute their
different Species. Nay, M. Tournefort went further j over and above the
Genera, he has placed Clafles to be regulated by the Flowers only; and
he was the firft that had this Thought, which is of far greater ufe in
Botany than can prefently be imagin'd : for as yet there are found but
fourteen different Figures of Flowers, which muft be imprinted in the
Memory. Thus, for example, fuppofing you have before ye a Plant in
Flower, whofe Name you are ignorant of, you prefently lee to what Clafs
it belongs in the foregoing Book of the Elements of Botany : fome days
after the Flower, appears the Fruit, which determines the Genus in the
fame Book, as the other parts give the Species ; fo that in a moment is
found both what Name M. Tournefort gives it with reipec~t to his own
Syftem, and what Names have been given it by other eminent Botanifts,
either with reipecl: to their particular Syftems, or without any Syftem at
all. This puts a Man in a way to ftudy fuch or fuch a Plant in the Au-
thors that have treated of ir, without danger of afcribing to one Plant
what they may have faid of another, or of afcribing to another what
they may have faid of It. A prodigious Eaie this Method muft be to
the Memory ; for by thus retaining only 14 Figures of Flowers, you de-

fcend

An Elogium on M. Tournefort. xxxvii

fcend to 67$ Genera, which comprehend 8846 Species of Plants, ei-
ther of Land or Sea ; which were all that were known at the time this
Book was publifh'd. What would a Man do, were he obliged to know in
the firft inftance all thefe 8846 Species, and that too by the different
Names the Botanifts have been pleas'd to impofe on 'em ? What I have
been here faying, would require fbme Reftrictions or Explications ; but
this has been already done in the Hiflory of 1700, where M. Tournefort^
Syftem has been more' copioufly treated of.

IT feem'd to be very much approved of by the Majority of the Phy-
ficiaus. He was indeed attack'd in fbme things by M. Ray, a celebrated
Englijb Botanift and Natural Philofbpher : M. Tournefort publifh'd an An-
f\verini697, being a Lat in DifTertation addrefs'd to M. Sherard, another
ingenious Englifbman. The Difpute was carry'd on without the lead Gall,
nay, with extreme Pohtenefs and Good-breeding on both fides, which is
a thing to be obferv'd. Perhaps you'll fay, the Subject was fcarce worth
while to be warm for ; the queftion being only, whether the Flowers and
Fruits were fufficicnt to defignate the Genera, whether fuch a certain
Plant was of this or that Genus. 'Tis no fuch uncommon thing, how-
ever, for Men, efpecially the Learned, to fly into a Pafllon upon light
occafions. M. Tournefort, in a fubfequent Work, bellows great Praifes on
M. Ray, and even on his Syftem of Plants.

H E took his Degree of Do&or of Phyfick of the Faculty of Paris,
and in 1698 publifh'd a Book, under the Title of, A Hiflory of fuch Plants
as grow about Paris, with their Vfe in Medicine.

YOU may well think, he that had been in fearch of Plants as far
as the Jlps and Pyrenees, beftow'd no fmall pains on thofe in the Neigh-
bourhood of Paris, after he was fettled there. Botany would be but a mere
Curiofity, did it not refer to Medicine : the Botany too of a Man's own
Country fhould be chiefly ftudy'd ; not only becaufe Nature has taken
care to furnifh each Country with fuch Plants as are proper in the Mala-
dies of the refpective Inhabitants, but becaufe they are more readily
come at, and are full as prevalent as thofe that come from abroad,
which are ne'er the better for being far fetch'd. In this Hiftory of
Plants growing about Paris, M. Tournefort mufters up all their different
Names, and then gives their Defcriptions, their chymical Analyfes made

* by

xxxviii A'Elogium on M. Tournefort.

by the Academy, and their beft approv'd Virtues. This Book alone is
fufrkient to wipe away the Alperfion caft fbmetimes on Phyficians, as if
they did not care for Medicaments drawn from Simples, became they are
too eafy, and have too quick, an effect. 'Tis certain M. Tournefort in this
Work produces great numbers, yet are they for the molt part difregarded,
and by a fort of Fatality they are ordain'd to be much coveted, and
but little ufed.

AMONG M. Tournefort^ Works, maybe reckoned a Book, or at
leaft a part of a Book, intitled, Schola Botanic a, five Catalogus Plant arum,
quas ab aliquot annis in Horto Regio Parifienfi Jhtdiofis indigitavit Vir da-
riffimus Jofepbus Pitton de Tournefort, Doctor Medicus, ut & Pauli Her-
manni Paradifi Batavi Prodromus, dfc. Amfielodami 1699. An Englifb-
?nan, whole Name was Simon Wharton, compos'd this Catalogue of
Plants, taught him by M. Tournefort, under whom he had ftudy'd Bo-
tany three Years.

HIS Elements of Botany having had all the fuccefs the Author him-
felf could wifh for, he publinYd it in Latin, for the benefit of Foreigners,
in the Year 1700, with Additions, under the Title of Injiitutiones Rei
Herbaria, in 3 Vol. in 40. Whereof the firft contains the Names of
Plants difpos'd according to the Author's Syftem, and the other two
their Figures in curious Copper-Plates. PrenVd to this Tranflation is
a large Preface or Introduction to Botany, wherein, befides an ingenious
and folid Eftablifhment of the Principles of M. Tournefcrt's Syftem,
there is a very accurate and agreeable Hiftory of Botany and Botanifls.
You may well fuppofe he took delight in a Task, that illuftrated the
Object: of his Love. And yet was he not fo attach'd to Plants, but
that he had almoft an equal Fondnefs for all the other Curiofities of Phy-
ficks, figured Stones, curious MarcaiTites, extraordinary Petrifications
and Chryftallizations, Shells of all forts. His Love of Stones was the
more confident with his Love of Plants, in that he took Stones to be
Plants that vegetate and have Seeds ; nay, he had a good mind to ex-
tend this Syftem to the very Metals : and thus, as much as in him lay
he transform'd every thing into what he himfelf loved beft, Vegeta-
bles. He alfo made Collections of Habits, Arms, Tools and lnftru-
ments of remote Nations, which tho not the immediate Work of Na-

# ture,

An Elogium on M. Tournefort. xxxix

ture, become philosophical in a Philofopher's hands. Of all together he
form'd a Mufaeum worth 50000 Livres. So great an Expence would
have caft a blemifh on the Life of a Philofopher, had it not been purely
directed to a philofophical End. It evinces that M. Tournefort, in Co
narrow a Fortune as his was, could not beflow much on Plealures that
are more frivolous, and yet a great deal more fought after.

M. TOVRNEFORTs (Qualities make it eafy to be imagin'd he

was the fitted Man in the world to be an excellent Traveller : by

this Term I mean not thofe who barely travel, but thofe who not only

have a moft extenfive Curiofity, which is a pretty rare thing to be met

wirh, but alfo, what is rarer, a certain Gift of Clearfightednefs. Philo-

lophers feldom fcour about the World, and fuch as do, are generally no

great Philofophers ; which makes a Philofopher's Travels to be extremely

valuable. We therefore count it an honour to the Sciences, the King's

ordering M. Tournefort in 1700, to travel into Greece, Afia, and Afr tea.

He was likewife order'd to write as often as he could to the Count de

Font char train, who procured him all poflible Accommodations in his

Voyage.

M.TOVRNEFORT, accompany'd by M. Gundelfcheimer a con-
fiderable Phyfician, and by M. Aubriet an eminent Painter, pafs'd as far
as the Frontiers of Perfia, gathering Simples, and making Obfervations
all the way. Other Travellers go by Sea as much as they can, becaufe
the Sea has more Conveniences ; and when they go by Land, they chufe
the moft beaten Roads : Contrariwife, M. Tournefort and his Compa-
nions went by Sea as little as poflible, and on Land they always chofe
untrodden Paths, and ftruck into Places till then deem'd impracticable.
You will by and by read, with a Pleafure mix'd with Horror, an Ac-
count of their Defcent into the Grotto of Antiparos ; that is to fay,
into three or four frightful AbyfTes one under another. M. Tour w fort was
highly delighted to fee therein a new kind of Garden, whofe Plants
were all different Pieces of growing Marble, and which, according to
all the Circumftances their Formation was attended with, muft needs
have vegetated.

I N vain had Nature withdrawn herfelf into fucb deep and inacceffi-
ble Places to work on the Vegetation of Stones: thefe bold Cu-

riofo's

xl An E l o g i u m on M. Tournefort.

riofo's of ours caught her, one may fay, in the very Fact.

AFRICA was compriz'd in the Defign of M.Toarneforfs Voyage ;
but the Plague then raging in Egypt, obliged him to return from Smyrna
into Fiance in 1702. This was the flrft Obftacle that put a flop to his
Progrefs. He came home, as was faid by a great Wit on a brighter, tho
lels ufeful occafion, laden with the Spoils of the East. He brought away,
befides an Infinity of different Obfervations, 1 356 new Species of Plants,
great part whereof came naturally under lome one of the 67 3 Genera he
had eftablihYd : for all the reft he was obliged to create but 25 new Ge-
nera, without any Increafe of Claffes ; and this lhews the Convenien-
cy of a Syftem, wherein fa many exotick unexpected Plants, fo eafily
enter'd. Of thefe he made his Coroliarium Injlhutionunt Rei Herbaria,
printed in 1703.

WHEN he was return'd to Paris, he had thoughts ofrefuming the
Practice of Phyfick, which he had lacrificed to his Voyage into the Le-
vant, at a time when he began to be at the top of the Profeflion. Ex-
perience fhews, that in all things which depend on the publick Tafte,
elpecially in this kind, Interruptions are dangerous : the Approbation of
Men muft be forced, and requires nothing lefs than perlevering to the
end. M. Tournefort therefore found it no eafy matter to renew the
Thred he had dropt; befides, he was obliged to perform his former
Exercifes belonging to the Royal Garden : to thefe he join'd alfo thofe
of the Royal College, where he had the Place of Profeffor in Medi-
cine ; the Functions of the Academy too required fome time : laftly,
he was defirous to perfect the Relation of his Voyage into the Levant^
of which he had only made a rough Draught, intelligible to none but
himfelf. The Hurry and Labours of the Day, which made the Repofe
of the Night more neceflary to him, did on the contrary oblige him to
pals the Night in other Labours : and if one may fo fay, it was his mif-
fortune to be of a ftrong Conftituticn, which allow'd him to take a great
deal on himfelf for a long time together, without feeling any fenfible In-
convenience. But at length his Health began to fail, and yet he did not
favour himfelf e'er the more. When he was in this bad State, he hap-
pen'd to receive a very violent Contufion on his Breaft, which he pre-

fcntly

An El o g i u m on M, Tournefort. xli

fcntly conceiv'd would fhorten his days. He languifli'd a few months,
and then died, the 28th of December 1708.

BY his laft Will and Teftament he bequeath'd to the King his Cabinet
of Curiofities, for the life of the Learned : his Books of Botany he left
to the Abbot Bignon. This fecond Article, no lefs than the firft, de-
monstrates his Love of the Sciences : 'tis making a Prefent to the Scien-
ces, to make one to him that watches over 'em Co carefully, and favours
them ft) tenderly.

I N the Relation of his Voyage into the Levant ■, you will find, be*
fides all the Learning we have hitherto reprefented M. Tournefort to be
Matter of, a vaft Knowledge of Antient and Modern Hiftory, and an
unbounded Erudition, which we have faid nothing of, fb far are our Elo-
giums from Flattery. One prevailing Quality oftentimes makes us over-
look others, which yet defer ve their mare of Praife, and to be fee in a
proper Light.

.

«*v

Vot. I. c The

( xlii ) (K

-

The Contents of the Letters m the

Firft Volume.

HE Occaftop and Deftgn of this Voyage. *° '-"• ■ ' ' pager

Jl£3 6l 013 13V< '. .

LETTER I.

Defection of the If and of Candia. 15

LET. it.

Defection of Candid tontinu'iL ■■'■>■ •'- 1o a 45

let. in.

T£<? Pre/e/tf SMte 0/ fjfe" Greek CWifr. " • 76"

LET IV
Defcription of the IJlands of Argentiere, Milo, Siphanto, and S'er'pho. 1 1 1

LET. V.
Defcription of the IJlands of Antiparos, Paros, and Naxia. 144

LET. VI.

Defcription of the IJlands of Stenola, Nicoujia, Amorgos, Caloyero, Chei-
ro, Skinoia, Raclia, Nio, Sikino, Policand^ .Santorin, Nanfio, My-
cone. "> 177

LET. VII.

Defcription of the IJlands of Dek>&^ 221

LET. VIII.
Defcription of the IJlands of Syra, ^Tjjermia, Zia, Macronifi, Joura, An-
dros, and Tinos. 245

LET. IX.

Defcription of the IJlands of Scio, Metelin, Tenedos, and Nicaria. 278

LET. X.

Defcription of the IJlands of Samos, Patmos, Fourni, and Skyros. 30$

L E T. XI.

t

Defcription of the Strait of the Dardanelles, of the Cities of Gullipofi • and
Constantinople. 340

LET. XII.
Continuation of the Defcription of the City of Constantinople. 366

JVMap of somucli of
The ARCH I PELAGO, f Coai't
of the BLACK SEA,NAT0Il4
ARMENIA and GEORGIA

a.> v jfcee/£aiy /vrd&Atitsrlttuktfimity
JVf.lbumefort's Travels

Iffy I.Stn&x

0

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iT OJT .

19

£

^jfCoaft
TOLIAl
IA

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( * )

18*
Ift

V O Y A G E

INTO THE

LEVANT-

By the KING 5s Exprefs Command.

77>e Occajion and Dejign of this Voyage,

[HE Count de Pontchartraiti, Secretary of State, towhofeCare
the Academies are committed, and who is ever intent upon
I promoting the Sciences, mov'd hisMajefty, towards the End
of the Year 1699, to fend abroad into foreign Countries ibrne
Perfons that were capable of making pertinent Obfervations, not only
upon the natural Hiftory, and the old and new Geography of thole
Parts, but likewile in relation to the Commerce, Religion, and Manners
of the different People inhabiting there.

THE King, by whole Command I had formerly perform'd lome Voyages

in Europe^ was pleas'd to pitch upon me for this of the Leva/it likewile.

Vol. I. B • That

A Voyage into the Levant

That great Prince, who by his Protection and Beneficence is ever
contributing to the Advancement of all the noble Sciences, being al-
ready exceedingly pleafed with the curious Difcoveries, which, under
his Aulpices, the Gentlemen of, the Royal Academy of Sciences have
from time to time made in the mofl diftant Climates : the King, I lay,
caus'd it to be fignify'd to me, that I muft fet out for the Levant, there
to make Remarks on every thing worthy notice.

I WA S overjoy'd at this further opportunity of gratifying the flrong
Pafllon I always had to travel into .remote Places, where by perfonally
ftudying Nature and Men, a much furer Foundation is laid, than by read-
ing in one's Clofet. I begg'd M. de Parte bar train io let me have the
chufing of the Peffons who. were to accompany me in. the Execution of
this Defign.

I WANT ED a couple of ftanch Men that could be depended upon, and
who were of a humour to mare with me the Inconveniences infeparable
from long Journeys. Nothing is fo difmal, as to fall fick in a Country
where one knows no body, and where Phyfick is unknown. It frets a
Man too, to lee fine Objects, and not be able to take Draughts of them j
for without this help of Drawing, 'tis impoffible any Account thereof
ihould be perfectly intelligible. By a fingular good fortune, and which
anfwer'd all my Willies, I found in the Perfons of Meffieurs Gundelfcbeimef
and Jubriet two real Friends ; the one an excellent Phyfician, the other
as good a Paiutcr. M.Gundelfchetmer, a Native ;<rf Jnffach^ i\i Franconia,
is at this time Counfellor and Phyfician to the Electoral Prince of Bran-
denburvb'. To an extreme Paflion for Natural Hillory, he has join'd a
compleat Knowledge of Vegetables and Phyfieks in general. I am be-
holden to his Care, for great, part of the icarce Plants which I mall men-
tion in the courfe of this Work.

M. AoBRJET of Chalons m Cbsappagne, is no lefs mduftrious than
skilful in paiuting in miniature the Plants of the Royal Garden. No-
thing has hitherto been leen fb beautiful in that way : and accordingly
his Ability has merited him the Place of Painter ,f the Kjng'.s Clofet.

S E C U RE that thefe Gentlemen were my Well-wilhci-s, I prefcnted them
to M. VAbb'e Rigpfot ; whole marvellous Tafte. for all the Sciences, made
him long ago fenfible how necefiary it was to go and afcertain one's felf

upon

The Occafion and Dejign of this Voyage. 3

upon the fpot, concerning what the Antients knew of Natural Hiftory,
and principally of Vegetables. And indeed, after having rang'd under
their rcfpe&ive Genus's all fuch as are already known, what could a Man
do more advantageous for Botany, than to enrich it with new Species,
particularly fuch as were made ufe of by the antient Phyficians in the
Cure of Maladies ?

SOME rime afterwards, M. de Pontchartrain fix'd our Departure for
the ninth of March, 1700. He wrote a Letter to M. VAbb'e Bignon, Pre-
fident of the Royal Academy of Sciences, to let him know that the King
had order'd me to go into Greece, to the Iflands of the Archipelago, and
into Apa ; to make diligent Search after things relating to Natural Hifto-
ry ; to inform my felf touching the feveral Diftempers and Medicaments
in thole Countries ; to compare the Antient Geography with the Mo-
dern •, and that his Majefty had granted me an Afliftant, as likewife a
Painter, and would defray all the Charges of our Voyage.

THIS Letter was read in the AfTembly the 16th of February. The
Society exprefs'd a great deal of Joy at an Undertaking which promis'd
fo well for Phyficks, and which fhew'd how much his Majefty had at
heart the perfecting the different parts thereof. At the fame time M. VAb-
be Bignon propos'd to them M. Gundelfcheimer^ who was unanimoufly
accepted, and his Letters were expedited in quality of the Academy's
Agent, to aid me in my Labours. He thank'd the Society at the firft
Meeting, and was prefent at all the reft till the day of our departure,
which was the fixth of March, when we took our leave of them, and
afterwards went to Versailles, to receive the laft Orders of M. de Pont-
chartrain, and of the King's chief Phyfician. M. Fagon, who fb diftin-
guifhingly poffefles that Poll, not content with having oftentimes fpoken
to the King concerning the Advantages that might accrue from fuch a
Voyage towards the illuitrating of Natural Hiftory, was further pleas'd to
introduce me to his Majefty ; who with his wonted Goodnefs accep-
ted a ' Book which he had eiven me leave to dedicate to him. ' In(liu

D It ei Hwbarix.

THE 9th of March we fet out in the Flying-Coach, and reach'd Lyons
in feven days and a half. Here we law the Collection of rare Plants,
which Ml Gotjfon obferv'd in the Alps. That learned Phyfician promifes-
the Publick not only a Hiftory of the Vegetables growing in the Ncigh-

B 2 bourhood

4. ^Voyage into the Levant.

bourhood of Lyons, but alio feveral uncommon Obiervations in Ana-
tomy ; and above all, fuch as concern the Structure of the Ear. M. Gotf~
fon brought us acquainted with Father de Colonia, Library -Keeper of the
Jefoits, a learned Antiquary. He has collected, in a very fhort timer
an amazing number of Greek and Latin Medals, Idols, Utenfils ferving
for the Heathen Sacrifices, Weights and Meaiures of the Antients, Ta-
Iifmans ; and in fine, every thing that regards Polite Antiquity.

THE 1 6th of March we fell down the Rhone to Condrieu, a Village in
Dauphiny, feven Leagues from Lyons, and two from Vienne. The next
day we lay at Pouzin, a little Town four Leagues below Faience.
A ;x. THE 1 8th we went aihore at Avignon, from whence we let forward

for Aix, a Day's Journy from Avignon. Without being partial to the
Place of my Nativity I fpeak. it, Aix for its biguefs is one of the beft-
built agreeable Cities in all France. After I had embrae'd my Relations,
we went and paid our Refpects to M. de Boyer d? Aiguilles, Counfellor in Par-
liament : and however curious his Pictures are, We were lefs affected by
them than by his own perfbnal Merit. That learned Magiftrate not
only excels in the Knowledge of Antiquity, but is endow'd with that
cxquifite Tafte for Drawing, which gives fuch an additional Luftre to the
Great Men in that kind. M. d? Aiguilles has caus'd to be grav'd part of
his Collection, upon a hundred large Plates, after the Originals of Raphael,
Titian, Michael Angelo, Paul Veronefe, Corregio, Carrachio, Tintoret, Gui-
do, Pouffin, Bourdon, Le Sueur, Puget, Valentine, Rubens, Vandyke, and
other Mailers. That worthy Gentleman muft permit me to tell the
World, that fbme of thofe Plates he grav'd with his own Hand ; that the
Frontifpieces of the two Volumes, which compofe the faid Collection,
are of his own Invention ; that the Ingravers, for the Truth of the
Contours, and the Force of the Expreflions, were directed intirely by
himfelf. There cannot be a nobler Diverfion for a Man of Quality,
who, over and above, fb worthily difcharges the Duties of his high
Station.

M. DE THOMASSIN MJZjiVGVES is another Counfellor of
the Parliament of Provence : a Gentleman of diftinguiih'd Merit, who puts
us in hopes of a Collection of Letters by M. de Peyrefc, which in Manu-
fcript have been handed about through the whole Kingdom. That indefa-
tigable

The Occafan and Dejign of this Voyage. £

tigable Man left above ioo Letters all of his own Hand-writing, as M. Sport
oblerves. It is confidently reported, that M. de Peyrefc's Heirs, for one
whole Winter, made uie of the Papers they found in his Clofet for Firing
to warm themfelves. Better had it been to have burnt Cedar, or the
Wood of Aloes : Enough of both thefe, Nature every day produces ;
but luch a Man as M. de Peyrefc, the World perhaps may never fee.

AMONG the other Literati of our Town, is reckon'd M. Gamier,
Prior de la Valette ; that great Aftronomer, fo prais'd by Gajfendus. ' Scaliger 'J^'5' 0puf'
and ' Cafaubon, who were not over-lavifh of their Encomiums, agree that ' r>e satir,
M. de Rafcas de Bagarris, Clofet-Keeper to Henry IV. was one that under-
flood all the antique Monuments wonderfully well. We muft not forger
Hannibal Fabrot, an eminent Lawyer, and who was a perfect Matter of
the Greek Tongue, and thorowly knew the Oriental Hrftory, as is appa-
rent from the Verfions he made of fome Volumes of the Byzantine Hifto-
ry, and his learned Notes upon the raoft obfcure PafTages. Father Tho-
majfin and Father Cabajfut, Priefts of the Oratory, will for ever be arv
Honour to the City of Jix. Their Erudition was unbounded, as like-
wile was that of Father. Pagi a Cordelier^ one of the profoundeft Chra-
nologers of the lad Age.

THERE are few Cities in the Kingdom, or perhaps in Europe, where
there have been more Cabinets of Curiofities : nay, at this very time there
are very fine things to be feen, efpecially at the Intendant M. le Brefs..
Hardly any Ship comes from the Levant to Provence, but either the
Merchants or lome of the Sailors bring with them Medals, grav'd Stones,
or other Rarities of Antiquity ; which they eafily find vent for, becaufe
the Parliament and the other fuperiour Courts being held at Atx, the
Country is oblig'd to repair thither as the Centre of Bufinels.

THE 27th of March we arriv'd at Marseilles. The firft thing I did, Marseille.
was to wait upon the Commiffioners of Trade, to whom I imparted the
Orders M. de Pontchartrain had charg'd me with. There being no Ship
ready to fet out for the Levant, we had time enough to view the Beau-
ties of that City, and to admire the Alterations which have been made
there in this Reign. If they go on building in the lame magnificent man-
ner, Marfeilles will loon recover the Luftre it had in the time of the
Greeks and Romans : for all that we fee there of the old Town is the

Work.

6 A V o y a g e into the Levant.

Work of later Times, which even then had a tang of the Gothick Igno-
rance and Barbarifm.

RevumGeog. ST R A BO, the exacteft of the antient Geographers, as great an Ad-
mirer as he was of the Afiatick Buildings, wherein nothing was ufed but
Marble and the glittering Granate, defcribes Marfeilles as a City very hand-
lomly built, and of a confiderable Largenefs, difpos'd in manner of a

■ AetriJiav. Theatre round a ' Haven naturally form'd by Rocks. Peradventure it

Euftath. ad . ' •

Dionyf.Perieg. was yet more luperb before the Reign of Auguftus, under whom Strabo
*' .j5" : liv'd : for that Author, fpeaking of Cyzicus as one of the bravefl Cities of
Afia, has this Obfervation, That it was beautify'd M'ith the fame Orna-
ments of Architecture, as had been formerly leen at Rhodes, Carthage,
and Marfeilles.

THERE are not to be found any Remains of that antient Splendour :
it were but labour loft, to look for the Foundations of Apollo's and Diana's
' tfliff(M$l& Temples, which its Founders, the * Phoceans, had erected there. All that
MeeawAi* we know of the matter, is, that thofe Edifices were in the higheit part
G^'.'iiiM. of the Town Neither can we find the place where Pytheas fix'd his
» Tnifutr. famous '' Needle, for determining the Elevation of the Pole of Marfeilles.
hb.V. ' ' Pytheas, who was of this Town, and who flourifh'd in Alexander's time,
was, according to Gajfendtts, the antientcfl of all the Men of Letters that
the Eaft, produc'd. Glorious it is for France, as M. Caffini, the beft
Aftronomer of our Age, obferves, to have given Birth to a Perfbn ca-
pable of carrying his Speculations to a point of Subtilty, which the
Greeks had not then been able to attain, though they afTum'd to tbem-
felves the Invention of all Sciences.

MA RSEILLES may not only boafl of having given the Sciences In-
duction into Gaul, but likewife of having form'd one of the three mod fa-
mous Academies in the World, and of having fhared her Scholars with Athens
* Tacit. mVit. and Rhodes. 4 Marfeilles was reforted to from all parts, for the Study of
gr. cap. 4. ^e -Qenes Lettres and Philofbphy. The Romans, on account of its Polite-
neis, lent their Children to be educated there : and the Gauls, who
were not over-proud of that Virtue, were fo delighted with the Greek
♦Strab.Rer. Tongue, which was ipoJten in its Purity at ! Marfeilles, that they made
0&' ' ' 4' ufe of it even in their publick Acts.

THO

The Occafion and Dejign of this Voyage. 7

THO the People of Marfeilles at prefent make Trade and Com-
merce their principal Occupation, yet it is a Place that often produces
very ingenious Men in every relpedt. 'Tis with juft rcafon that France has
admired the Eloquence of M. Mafcaron Bifhop of Jpen. The Chevalier
d'fleriicu was well skill'd in the Oriental Tongues. M. Rigord is emi-
nent among the Antiquaries, as is Father Feuillee, a Mininie, among the
Aftronomers. Father Plunder of the fame Order, and of the lame Town,
has immortaliz'd himfelf by the Difcovery of above nine hundred Plants,
which had elcap'd the diligence of other Travellers into America. He
died toward the Cloie of the Year 1704, at Port St. Mary over a-
gainft Cadiz, where he was waiting for PafTage to Peru, by the King's
Order.

W E were not long at Marfeilles e'er we went to lee the lad Performances m. Paget"*
of M. Puget, an admirable Sculptor, great Painter, and excellent Architect. ogMm'
He was born at Marfeilles in 1623, of Parents who had not Eftate enough
to keep up their Name. The happy Difpofitions he had for Drawing*
difcover'o! themfelves as foon as he could well hold a Pencil. At
fourteen Years of Age he was put out to the Sieur Roman, the ablefl
Sculptor and beft Shipwright ; who, after two Years, was lb fatisfy'd
with his Difciple, that he left it to him intirely to build a Gaily of con-
fiderable magnitude, and likewife to do the carving parr. After this
Specimen, young Puget fet out for Italy, and rarry'd about a Year at
Florence, where he wrought half a dozen graven Stands for Candleflicks
by the Great Duke's Order. This would have procur'd him more confide-
rable Work, if the ftrong Defire he had to fee Rome had not indue1 d him to
quit that Court. At Rome he apply'd himfelf intirely to Painting, and
gave fo well into Peter de Cortona's Manner, that that eminent Artifl
happening one day to pafs by a Houfc where M. Paget had fet out one of
his Pictures for mow, ' fie had the Cmiofity to go in, and cngag'd the'
Author to accompany him to Florence, whither he wasfent for, to paint
a Gallery for the Great Duke : but M. Puget loon went back to Romef
being promis'd by a certain Perfbn, Agent to the Queen Mother, that
he fhbuld be employ'd by her Majefty m drawing the Jmeft Pieces of
Antiquity. He acquitted himfelf perfectly well of this CommiiTIon,
and took fuch a Relilh for Painting, that he ftaid there near fifteen Years ;

and

8 A VorAGE into the Levant.

and had not come away then, but to look after what little Matters his
Father had left him. The Duke de Breze, Grand Admiral of France,
order'd him to make a Model of as noble a Ship as he could invent :
which Model was follow'd, and the Ship was named the Queen. He
then invented thole beautiful Galleries, which Foreigners have fo much
admir'd, and but faintly imitated. He drew fome Pieces at Thoalon, a
St. Felix in the Church of the Capuchins, an Annunciation for the Do-
minicans, and another Picture which is in the Cathedral. At La Valette
near Thoulon are feen three Pieces of his ; one at the high Altar, repre-
fenting St. John writing the Apocalyple ; St. Jofepb in the Agony of
Death ; and St Hermentariiu.

A T Marseilles he painted, for the Church de la Majour, the baptizing of
Qlovis, and that of Conjlantin : but that Piece of his call'd the Saviour
of the World, is, if pofiible, more beautiful. The Jefliits have in their
Houle atjix two Paintings by this excellent Man, the Annunciation,
and the Vifitation of the Virgin. The Education of Achilles is the laft
thing he did : it remains in his Son's Gallery,

M. PVGET had, in 1657, fo dangerous a Fit of Sicknefs, that after
his Recovery he was advis'd by bis Friends and Phyfician never any more
to meddle with Painting. But how was it poflible to check fo lively a
Fancy, feconded by fuch capable Hands ? However, whether it was
becauie Sculpture was eafier to him, or that he had a mind to go on
with the Models he was then upon purely for his diverfion, he never ap-
ply'd himfelf any more to Painting. Some time afterwards he began
that fine Gate of the Tovvn-Houfe of Thoulon, whole two * Termini
under the Balcony, the Marquifs de Seignelay was fo pleas'd with, as to
propofe to the King to have them brought to ferfailles. The Arms of
France in BafTb-Relievo of Marble, was another piece of V/ork done
about the fame time by M. Paget ; and is one of the chief Ornaments of
the Town-Houfe of Marseilles.

HE came to Paris in 1659, being invited thither by M. Girardin ; who
for fome time employ'd him at his Seat of Vaudretdl in Normandy, to
make two large Figures- which M. le Pautru was fo taken with, that he

* Figures, the upper part like a human Shape, and ending in a Pedejlal ; call'd Termini by the Antknts,
who ujtd them- for Boundaries, and number d them among their Gods. The French call them Termcs.

advis'd

The Occctfion and Defign of this Voyage.

advisrd M. Fouqaet to make ufe of fo great Mafter in the Works of Faux-
le-Yicomte. Marble being a fcarce Commodity at Paris, that Minifter,
who had an exquifite Tafte for every thing that was excellent, order'd
M.Pacct to go to Italy, and buy up as many Blocks of Marble as he
pleas' d : by this means he was the firft Man that made that beautiful Scone
io familiar to us. While he was at Genoa freighting three Shipload of it,
he carv'd that noble Hercules, which is now at Seaux, leaning on a Shield
charg'd with Flower-de-luces. The News of that Minifter's Diigrace,
kept him at Genoa longer than he propos'd. He left there two admirable
Figures, St. Sebajlian and St. Ambrofe, placed among the Pillars of the Cu-
pola of St. Peter de C.arignan. Under that of St. Ambrofe, he has repre-
fentcd the blefTed Alexander Saul/, a Prelate of an exemplary Life, whole
Anceftors founded that Church. M. Paget did likewife acquire great Fame
by his Piece of the Virgin, which is in the Palace of Balbi.

THE Duke of Mantua about the fame time caus'd him to make a
Bafto-Relievo of the Afiiumption, which drew thither the Cavalier Ber-
nini ; and that great Man allow'd it to be a compleat Piece. The Duke
left nothing unattempted to engage M. Paget in his Service, and pro-
mis'd him lbme confiderable Pofts in the Government ; but died ibon
after.

MARIA SAVLIy a Nobleman of Genoa, who after the example of
his Anceftors has expended great Sums for adorning the Church of
St. Peter de Carignan, pray'd M. Paget to make a Model of a Canopy
for the great Altar. This Work fhews to what a degree of Perfection
that incomparable Man had carry'd Architecture. Whilft he was pre-
paring to execute it, M. Colbert, upon M. Bernini s> Character of him,
oblig'd him to come to Prance by the King's Command ; where his Ma-
jefty honour'd him with a Penfion of 1 200 Crowns, in quality of Sculp-
tor, and Director of the Works which regarded the Shipping and Gallies.
M. Paget, defifous to go upon things of a longer duration, ap ha .ig
done his Duty in that refpect, undertook a BaiTo-Relievo of Alexander
and Diogenes -. it is the grandeft Piece of Sculpture he ever perform'd ;
but he did not finifh it till a little before he died. Milo Crotonienfis was
the firft and fineft Performance of M. Paget, that ever came to Verjailks :
Anguiih and Rage are imprinted upon the Vifage of Milo j every Mulcle
Vol. I. C of

10 ^ Voyage into the Levant.

of the Body is expreffive of the Stragglings of that fturdy Priie-fighter
to difingage one of his Hands caught fall within the Trunk of a rifted
Tree, which he was trying to pull in pieces ; whilft with the other he is
tearing up by the roots the Tongue of a Lion that was going to devour
him behind.

THE Marquifs de Louvois, Super-Intendant of the Buildings after
M. Colbert's Death, wrote to M. Puget, that his Majefty was defirous
he would undertake a Groupe, to accompany that of Milo. M. Puget
made the Model of his Andromeda, but finding himfelf indiipos'd, he
caus'd one of his Difciples to rough-hew it ; and after he himfelf had
finiih'd the lame, it was prefented to his Majefty by his Son. The King
not only honour'd him with the Character of a moft excellent Sculp-
tor, but likewiie ftiled him Inimitable.

SOME Years afterwards, patting through Marseilles, I told M. Puget
that the Figure of Andromeda was thought to be too imall, and that
Perfeus look'd a little oldifh for fo young a Hero. He anfwer'd me very
calmly, that one of his Men named Verrier, who was fince grown very
eminent in Statuary, had in the rough-hewing made the Figure of An-
dromeda a little too fhort ; but yet that there would be found in it the
lame Proportions as in the Venus of Media's. As for that of Perfeus^
added he liniling, the Down on his Cheeks denotes him to be of no fuch
advanc'd Age.

M. PVGET has preferv'd his Father's final Work, namely, the Baf-

Relief of St. Charles, wherein the Plague of Milan is reprefented in fo

moving a manner. This beautiful Piece was long ago befpoke by the

Abbot de la. Chambre, Curate of St. Bartholomew : but it was very late

e'er M. Puget finifiVd it. His Son has, in Wax, the Equeftrial Figure of

the King, which was to have been erected in the Royal Square at Mar-

feilles, of which likewife his Father had drawn the Plan. M. Lauthier a

celebrated Lawyer, and M. Girardon his Majefty's Sculptor in chief, have

lome Sea-Pieces done with a Pen by M. Puget : they are perfectly

charming.

EQUALLY happy in Invention, Fecundity of Fancy, Noblenefs
of Tafte, and Correctuefs of Defign, he animated the very Marble, anc
made it as it were breathe : The hardeft Stones foften'd and grew tender

under

The Qccafion and Defign of this Voyage.

under his Chizzel, and acquir'd from his Hands that Flexibility which is
the eflcntial Character of Flefh, and which makes ye fee it even through
the very Drapery. This Brisknefs of Fancy, join'd to fuch lively and
natural Expreffions, is a Gift from Heaven not to be attain'd by any
Study. How many Figures do we meet with, to the laft degree cor-
rect and yet as cold and flifF as the Marble or Brafs they are made of!
M. Pwet died at Mar/eilles in 1695, aged Seventy Two Years.

THE Arfenal and the Gally-Dock are well worth the feeing. The
Grandeur of the King, and the Vigilance of M. de Pontchartrain, are
confpicuous in every corner thereof. The Armory is one of the nobleft
and beft-order'd of the whole Kingdom. The Rope- Yard, in its kind,
yields not to the fineft Work-houfes of the Dock. The very Spinning-
places for Sails, the Smithy, the Sheds for Oars, all confefs the exacl: Re-
gularity and conlummate Neatnefs of M. de Montmor, Intendant of the
Gallies.

THIS Intendant does not take cognizance of the Affairs of Com-
merce : they are within the Jurifdiclion of the Intendant of Juftice, who
fits as Chief of the Chamber of Commerce ; a particular Court, con-
fiding of the Echevins, and a certain number of the greateft Traders of
Marseilles. This Chamber gives a Penfion of 18, coo Livres to our Em-
balTador at the Porte, to maintain the Rights ftipulated to France for the
Levant-Trade. They pay 6000 Livres yearly to the Intendant, as Judge
Commercial ; and befides all this, they allow confiderable Salaries to the
French Confuls and their Chancellors in the Sea-ports of the Levant.
Thofe Confuls are properly Long-robed Swordmen, if one may ufe that
Expreflion ; and the Chancellors are National Notaries. The Chamber
is often oblig'd to extraordinary Expences, cfpecially in Prefents to the
Bafhaws on their Arrival in the Sea-ports, and in making good the
Damages frequently fuffer'd by the French from the OppreiTion and Ex-
tortion of the Turks.

THIS Chamber not only fetches up its Charges, but makes vafl
Advantages of the Conlulary Duties paid in the Levant, by fitch Com-
modities as are laden where there are French Confuls : Thefe Duties are
paid to the Deputies of each Port, and they account for the fame to the
Chamber of Commerce at Marfeilles. Thefe Gentlemen had for lbme

C 2 time

II

12 ^Voyage into the Levant.

time the Nomination of the Confuls : the Court has now taken it out
of their hands, and the CommiiTIoners in all their Tranfactions are fub-
ordinate to the Minifler who has the Super-Intendance of Commerce.

THE French never had fo confiderable a Trade to the Levant as
now. It rivals, nay exceeds that of all other Nations, through the good
Management and Oeconomy fettled therein by M. de Pontchartrain .• our
Merchandizes yield quick Returns in thole parts, when they are of the
quality requir'd. There needs no prodigious Genius to carry on this
Trade, but a great deal of Probity and Honefty : all Bufinefs there goes
through the hands of the Jews, The Cuftoin of the Country muft be
comply'd with ; that is to fay, we mull: trull them with our Effects, fell
them according as they advife, buy up Goods of the Levant, and barter
ours juft as they think convenient. The Jews make all the Bargains ;
for which they have Brokerage, and there's an end of the matter : So
that if a Man is prudent, he need not doubt growing rich ; efpecially
if he avoids Commerce with the Greek Women, who are the moft dan-
gerous Traders in the World.

THE Shops of the Coral-Merchants, the Druggifts Ware-houfes, the.
Sugar-bakers, the Manufacturers in Gold, Silk, and thofe of Soap, are
worthy of a Traveller's Obfervation.

THERE are no Coral-Merchants but at Mar fellies and Genoa: thofe
of Marseilles have much the greater Dealings ; the whole Eaft is fill'd with
their Necklaces and Bracelets. This has been a (landing Commerce for
many Ages : we are alTur'd by Pliny, that the Gauls wanted Coral at home
to adorn their Arms, having fent it all away to the Indies, where it
was recommended by the Priefts as a Prefervative againll: all Dangers. The
Coral that was got on the Coaft of Provence about the Ifles of Hyeres,
and on the Coafts of Sicily, was mod in efteem. There are (till fbme
Fisheries of Coral in thofe parts ; but the greateft: of all is towards Afri-
ca, about the Bafiion de France, from whence 'tis fent to Marseilles.

M. S A L A D E, one of the principal Coral-Merchants there, flievv'd
us fbme very fine Pieces of that Commodity, both rough and wrought.
Wrought Coral fells for about five Livres an Ounce : I have of feveral
colours in my Scrutore, common red, as well as pale and deep red ; rofe-
colour, fleili- colour, white, red and white, fillemot, gridelin ; this lafl

is

The Occajion and Dejign of this Voyage. i g

is brought from America. But what is very remarkable, is a pretty-
large piece of Coral I have feen growing upon a broken piece of Earthen
Ware : which demonftrates, that Sea-Plants are not nourifh'd like thofe
which grow on the Land. What Nutrition can the Coral derive from a
Brickbat, a piece of human Skull, a broken Glafs-Bottle, a hard Flint-
Stone, a dry Shell ? Coral has been taken up from the bottom of the
Sea, flicking naturally upon all the forenamed Subfiances. I have given
my Thoughts on this Subject in the Second Volume of Memoirs of the
Royal Academy of Sciences, Anno 1700. p. 27.

AS for Drugs, you find in the Port of Marfei/les every valuable one
that comes from Smyrna, Aleppo, and Alexandria ; that is to fay, the bell
Scammony, Caffia, Rhubarb, Storax in Tears (/. e. in Drops or Grains)
Storax liquid, Myrrh, Frankincenfe, Bdellium, Tamarinds, Galbanum,
Opoponax, Sagapenum, white Balfam alias Opobalfamum, Pepper, Cin-
namon, Sal Ammoniac, and a multitude of other things. Yet, fince
the Dutch have made fuch powerful Settlements in the Eaft-lndies, much
of the Trade of Marseilles and Venice is fallen off The We f -India Drugs
come to Marfeilles directly, or by the way of Cadiz, : thefe are the Ipe-
cacuana, the Quinquina, Ginger, Caffia of the Iflands, Indigo, Rocou,
Balfam of Pern, Balfam of Capivj, &c.

A T Marfeilles they refine to perfection the Sugar of our American Plan-
tations : the Soap-Trade is likewife very confiderable, as appears from
the Confumption not only of the Oils of Provence, but likewife thofe
which are fetch'd from Candia and Greece.

AFTER we had vrevv'd every thing of Note in Marfeilles, we took a
turn into the Country adjoining, the Wind not as yet permitting us to pro-
ceed on our Voyage. The Chartreufe is a ftately well-contriv'd Edifice :
the Burghers Houfes, which are calPd Bafiides, are only remarkable for their
Number ; and ftand fo thick together among the Vines, the Olive and
the Fig-Trees, that they make an agreeable Landskip.

THE Soil of Marfeilles is a well-cultivated Garden. Being naturally
lean and hungry, they take care not to lofe the leaft Dab of Dirt in
the whole City ; nay, they make advantage of the very Excrements of
the Gally-Slaves, by placing at one end of the Gallies proper VefTels
for receiving a Manure fo neceflary to the Country. The Major of the

Gallies

i4 ^Voyage into the Levant.

Gallies makes confiderablc Gain of this fort of Commodity, which by
warming the cold and husky Land, produces excellent Grapes, good
Olives, and the bell Figs in the world.

A S for us, whole prevailing Paffion was Simpling, we were perpetually
upon the hunt all round the City, and more particularly in that fandy
Plain which extends it lelf along the Sea, from the Butt of the little
Monredon to that call'd the great Monredon. We went likewile and vi-

• or St. John, fited the Ifles of the Caflle of Tf, ' Pomegues, ' Ratonneau, de Maire, Pi-

' st. Stephen, hmtey^ Riou^ Conclu, Collefareno, Jarret.

' Mifttai. IN fine, after having waited for aJ Northweil Wind to carry us to

Candia, we left the Port of Marfeilles the 23d of April ; but the Wind
being too frelh, we tarry'd among the Ifles, and put not to Sea till the
next day about eleven in the morning. Our Bark, which went by the
name of the Holy Ghofi, was commanded by one Carles, an honeft Tar ;
who landed us in the Port of Cane a the jd of May, without touching any
where in our Paflage. So quick a Voyage happens but rarely. We
run 1600 Miles in nine days, leaving the Ifland of Malta half-way be-
hind us.

THE Length of Miles is not precifely determin'd in the Levant,
efpecially at Sea, where they are lengthen'd or Ihorten'd as every one
pleaies. I never yet met with two Pilots that were of the fame mind ;
ibme reckoning no lefs than 1800 Miles from Marfeilles to Candia, and
others allowing but 1500 : We follow'd the moll common Opinion,
which is 1600. 'Tis much the fame thing with relpecl: to the Land: there
are places where the Miles are fo Ihort, that fcarce four of 'em ihall make
a French League.; molt commonly three are enough. Hence arifes the
Difference, or Corrclpondence, that is found to be between the Mea-
fures of the Antients and thofe of the Moderns. In the Ealt they know
nothing of Geometry, or the Art of liirveying Land ; and indeed Land
may be purchas'd there fo very cheap, that they don't give themfelves
ihe trouble to meafure it with any exadnefs.

&.

9&

LET-

(*»*)

OC«J

LETTER I.

To Monf eigne ur the Count de Pontchartrain>
Secretary of State, Sec.

My Lord,

PURSUANT to your Commands, I give you a particular Deftription of
M Account of what we obferv'd in Candia, that fam'd Ifland Candia.
1 fb well known in former Ages by the name of Crete. The
Letters which I had the honour to write to you when I was
upon the fpot, are fince my Return grown, as it were, under my Pen.
You gave me leave to infert fome Touches of Erudition, to heighten the
Subjects therein treated of. I fancy fiich Additions will make 'em lefs
tirefbme. What can a Man fay of a Country inhabited by Tsrfa, if he
is confin'd to what he fees of it in its prefent Condition ? Almofl their
whole Life is fpent in Idlenefs : to eat Rice, drink Water, Imoke To-
bacco, fip Coffee, is the Life of a Muffulman. The Speculative Sort
(of which there are not many) employ themfelves in reading the Alco-
ran, confulting the feveral Interpreters of that Book, thumbing over the
Annals of their Empire : what's all this to us ? The things which at-
tract Strangers thither, muft be a Search after Antiquities, Study of
Natural Hiftory, Commerce. Relations of the Levant would be but
dry fluff, if a Man were to defcribe nothing but the prefent State of the
Provinces under the Ottoman Domination.

THE Pafilon my felf and Friends had for the Difcovery of Plants
and antient Monuments, made us think the Voyage very long from
Marfeilles to Candla^ the firft Ifland of Greece which we were to land at,

according

\6 ^ Voyage into the Levant.

according to your Lordfhip's Orders. And yet it was next to irnpoffible
to have a happier or fhorter Voyage. The Wind was conftantly in our
Stern, and in nine days we reach'd Canea.

Cant a. YOU know, my Lord, that the Venetians purchas'd this City, toge-
ther with the reft of Candia, in 1204. They were in pofleffion of
•,.tjTo- Canea till 1645. ' IJfoaf the Captain-Baihaw coming before the Place

^chard' ' with eighty Ships, and as many GaJ lies, 2 took it in ten days time. Sul-

Voyag. -ran Ibrahim caus'd him to be ftrangled after his Return to Conjlavtinople,
that he might have the Confutation of his Wealth, which however could

' dh Loir's not be very confiderable. ; He had juft fucceeded to that famous Mujla-

; Amurathiv./^ whom Sultan 4 Jslourat fo tenderly, lov'd, as to defire to die in his
Arms.

A T this time Canea is the fecond Place of the Ifland. Befides its being

' Begierbey. not fb big as Candia, 5 the Viceroy of that City commands over the
Bafhaw of Canea, and him too of Retimo. The whole Ifland pays obe-
dience to thefe three General's,- and each has his refpe&ive Province. There
are not reckon'd to be in-Cant a above 1 5 co Turks, 2 oco Greeks, ^oJetvsy
10 or 1 2 French Merchants, a Conful of the fame Nation, and two Ca-
pucins who are their Chaplains. The Body. of the Place is good; the
Walls well fac'd with Stone, and well terrafs'd, defended by a deep
Ditch, and there is but one Gate land-ward.

THE Venetians, who had caus'd this City to be fortify'd with great
care, might eafily have retaken it in the laft War, had they but laid hold
of the Difbrder the Turks were in, when the Chf iftians came before it.
There were hardly 200 Men in the Town fit to bear Arms, and the

"Bourma. greateft part were * Renegadoes : that is to fay, Fellows without either
Faith or Fidelity, neither Turk nor Chriftian ; who always fide with
the ftrongeft, and feek for nothing but Plunder. If General Mocenigo,
inflead of lofmg eighteen Days in threatning the Turks, and fummoning
them to furrender, had fir'd briskly on the Place, he had doubtlefs car-
ry'd it ; whereas the Breach was not made till after the Bamaw of Re-
timo, who was known to be a good Officer, had thrown Succours into
it. Add to this, the French Deferters, who, after their Commander
M. de St. Paul was kilPd with a Cannon-mot, being fed with nothing

' Prifope. but 7 Bifcuit-duft full of Moufe and Rat-dung, went over to the Enemy

in

WftisaS^^JV^CTf

cjfa ytfute. ^ ^Mjij*u'n>s

Defer ipt ion of the IJland of Candia. 1 7

in a Fit of Defpair, which brave Men arc often driven to by want of Letter I.

Neceflaries. They fhould likewife have landed at la Culata, the further ^^^^^^

end of the Gulph of la Suda, which the Venetians are even at this day

matters of; and then have entrench'd on the adjoining Eminences, in-

ftead of leaving them to be polTefs'd by the Bafhaw of Retirno, who in-

cefTantly harafs'd the Befiegers with his Detachments. The Venetians,

no doubt, believ'd that Candia would be fuccour'd by Sea, and did not

think it convenient for their Fleet to remove from the Coaft of ' St. Odero. ' St.ThcoJore,

A Couple of Frigats well arm'd had been fufficient to block up the Port

of Canea.

THIS Port, tho expos'd to the North Wind, (or the Tramontane, as
they call it in the Mediterranean) would be a pretty good one, were it
carefully look'd to. There are (till to be feen the Ruins of a noble Ar-
fenal built by the Venetians, towards the left hand at the further end of
the Bafon. All that remains, is the Arches of the Work-houfes where
they fitted up their Gallies. The Turks intirely negledt the repairing of
Ports and Walls of Towns. They take a little more care of the Foun-
tains, becaufe they are great Water-Drinkers, and their Religion obliges
'em very frequently to wafh every part of their Body. The Entrance of
the Port of Canea is defended on the left by a finall Fortrefs, where there
is a Light-houfe. The Caftle, which is on the right beyond the firft
Baftion, is quite ruin'd. After you are paft the Light-houfe, there is a
very handfome Mofque, with a low round Dome. The Front confifts
of feveral Arches, bearing as many finall Domes of the lame profil 'as
the great one. The Houfe of the French Capuchins Hands by this Mofque :
their Chappel is a Room, ill built, worfe furnifli'd, ferv'd by two Friars
of the Province of Paris ; one of thefe bears the Name of Superior, and
the other reprefents the reft of the Community. The Chamber of
Trade allows them 1 40 Crowns yearly ; and they receive the Charity
of our Conful, Merchants, and Sailors.

A S for the Houfes, they are here, as every where elie in the Levant,
very ordinary : the beft are but two Stories high, of which the firfl
(that is, the Ground-Floor) ferves for a Parlour, Ware-houfe, Cellar, and
Stable. The Walls are Brick- Work, with Free-flone Angles. From the
firft Floor you afcend to the fecond by an almoft perpendicular wooden
Vol. I. D Ladder :

i8 ^ Voyage into the Levant.

Ladder : this fecond Floor is divided into different Apartments, accor-
ding to the Capacity of the Place, and cover'd Terrace-wife, but -without
either Brick or Plafter, only fome Deal-Boards put together like a Cieling,
fupported by Joyfts of Oak laid two or three foot afander : outward it
is cover'd with a Lay of Earth temper'd like Mortar and well beaten,
and then pav'd with fmall Flint Stones and Pebbles. The Terrace is
made a little floping, for the Rain to run of£ In fine Weather they
walk, and in the great Heats will lie, on thefe Terraces. You fee to
what a pitch of Perfection the Candiots have carry'd the Art of Building.
Thefe Coverings muft be repair'd every Year. Befides thefe Terrace-
Roofs, every Houfe has commonly another lmall Terrace on the lame
Floor with the fecond Story : 'tis properly but an open Room, adorn'd
with fome Pots of Flowers, and is of great benefit to their Health ; for
moll of the Houfes of the Town being turn'd to the North, they fhut
the Windows when the Wind fits in that Corner, and open the Door
of the Terrace which faces the South. Contrarywife they lhut that
Door, and open the Windows to the North, as foon as ever the Southerly
Winds, fb dangerous throughout the Levant, begin to be felt: thefe
Winds are fometimes fo hot, that they mfTocate People in the open
Fields.

THE Country about Can en is charming, between the Town and the
• *o& Tw- firft ' Mountains : fo is it likewife all the way between the Town and
g^trab.R^. the Gulph of la Sttda ; nothing but Forefts of Olive-Trees, as high as
thofe of Toulon and Seville : thele never die in Candia, becaufe it never
freezes there. The Forefts are diverfify'd with pleafant Fields, Vine-
yards, Flower-Gardens, purling Streams, fhaded with Myrtle and Laurel.
M. TRV1LHJRT, on whom your Lordlhip confer'd the Place of
Conlul of Canea, entertain'd us at his Houfe with great Civility. He
f Miftaches. affur'd us, that in the Year 1699, the Ifland yielded 300,000 J Meafures
of Oil; of which the French bought 200,000 at Canea, Retimo, Candia,
and Girapetra, the only places where they take in Freight. The Crop of
Oils faiPd that Year in Provence, and the Ports of Candia were crouded
with Ships from MarfeiUes, to fetch Supplies for the Soapmakers there.

THE ordinary Meafure of Oil weighs at Canea eight Oques and a
half; at Retimo it weighs ten : the Oque is three Pound two Ounces,

which

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 1 9

which makes 400 Drams, according to the Eaftern way of Reckoning. Letter I.

The Pound is 128 Drams, and the Dram is 60 Grains. The beft Oils of ^"v~"^-'

the Ifland are thole of Retimo and Canea : the Girapetra Oils are black and

muddy, becaufe before they empty their VefTels, they take a ftick and

ftir up the Sediment, and fo fell the Oil and the Lees all together. In

1700, the Oils were worth but j6 to 40 Parats a Meafure, or at moil

but an ' Abouquel, which is worth 44 Parats at Canea, and but 42 at 'A p5"^'* ,

* * Dutch, which

Retimo. The Eagernefs of our Merchants, notwithftanding your Lord- m/wto to one
ihip's Orders that no Ship ihould go out of its turn, raisM the Market to %™rt %Zch.
60 or 66 Parats the Meafure : thefe Parats are a Silver Coin of a bafe Al- J*« J3"^1
lay, worth about fix French Farthings, or eighteen Deniers of Provence. **«■ Name,

, , _ , Aflani, from

BESIDES the Forefts of Olive-Trees, there are abundance of Gardens the figure of*
about Caned, planted juft like all the reft in Turky, without Order, Sym- 2jJJ
metry, or Neatnefs; In thefe neglected Orchards, the Trees produce but Man«
forry Fruit ; and indeed they plant no other, nor do they know what
Grafting means. Their Figs are infipid, and the Melons almoft as bad.
We went to fee the * Governour's Houfe at Varrouil, the Garden there ' Difdar.
being cry'd up for a Terreftrial Paradife. Before I defcribe it, I mud ob-
lerve to your Lordfhip, that Varrouil was once the handforaeft Village in
all the Ifland. It was burnt by the Turks during the laft Siege of Caneay
to prevent the Venetians fettling there. The Greeks of Canea were all
oblig'd to go and lie every night at this Village, or rather Suburb, and re-
turn'd again the next morning at a certain hour; and but for the Lownefs
of their Circumftances, the Government would have made them re-
build it. Nothing is now to be feen there but Ruins and Demolitions
made by the Fire. The Deftruction of Varrouil was of no ufe to any
but the French, who ruin'd themfelves there in Luxury and Riot.

THE Governour's Garden is a little Wood of Orange-Trees, Lemons,
and Cedars, intermix'd with Plumb, Pear, and Cherry-Trees. The
Orange-Trees here are as ftrong and vigorous as any in the beft ; Gardens » Quimas, v»
of Portugal, tho not nearfo carefully look'dto : for tho they're burden'd PonuSuefc-
wTith either dead or fuperfluous Branches, they put forth with profufion
Bunches of Flowers, cluttering upon one another in large heaps. They
cultivate in Portugal none but that excellent fort of Orange, call'd
throughout Europe the Portugal Orange, and which the Pcrtngueje then>

D 2 felve-s

20 ^Voyage into the Levant.

' Naranca da felves call ' China Orange : it is not known in Candia. or any where ehe

China.

in Turk]. In this Country every Man is content with what he finds in

his Garden, juft as it comes up fpontaneous and without Culture. The

' Malus Au- common Orange of the Levant is a large fweet or rather infipid * Oranse.

rantia major, ° ° r D "

c. b. rin.436. with a thick Rind, bitter, and as it were fpungy. They raife here fbrne
Citrons, which are a fine Fruit when they are candy'd, but the Natives
know not how to go about it. The Governour's Garden was kept, or
* Caloyer. rather neglected, by a Greek 5 Monk ; a Wretch without a Shirt to his
back, who could neither read nor write, any more than three or four of
the fame Fraternity, who were almofr. eaten up with the Itch. The poor
Creatures prefented us with lome Orange-Branches full of Flowers and
Fruit : and we put them in a way to cure themfelves, by ufing Brimftone.

I N our Return to Canea, we were almoft poifon'd with the abomina-
ble Stench from the Burying-places. The World knows, that the Turks
interr their Dead upon the Highways : this Practice were extraordinary
well, did they dig the Graves deep enough. Candia being a very hot
Country, thefe Smells are very ofFenfive under the Wind. The Turks
place a Stone at each end of the Grave, fbmetimes a Pillar of Marble
crown'd with a Turbant inflead of a Capital : this is never done but to
Perfons of ibme Rank.

I CAN'T forbear mentioning here, how aftoniflfd M. Gundelfcheimer

and my felf were in our firft Walk. Being landed at Canea, we had fcarce

paid our Reipects to the Conful, but we haften'd to the Gate of the

♦AAEfmenard. Town, with the 4 Chancellor of the Nation, to fee what rare Plants this

fine Country of Candia produc'd, which we fo much long'd for all the way

*HefperisCre. from Mar fei lies. There grows in the Streets of Canea a fort of s Juliane,

Ibiio wa'iro'hi- witn a ^ar8c Fl°wer and fining Leaves, not to be defpis'd : We flatter'd our

cido, magno felves we mould meet with lome greater Rarity out of Town, but to our

no finall grief we did not hit the right place. Along by the Walls on the

right hand we pais'd through a fat Soil, over-run with Clover-Grafs, and

other very common Herbs. I fancy'd my felf at Barcelona • where, as

•Ch.'yfanthe- „ , « ,, ., , r .. t-. 11

mum, floie at Canea, all the Ramparts are cover d with thole yellow Flowers, which
S^paafa lu- trie Greeks knew not how to defignate more properly than by the name
ieo, c-B.Pin. 0£ « Q0[^en flowers. Our Aflonifliment inereas'd as we approach'd

134. & Chry- rr

fanthemum nearer the Sea, where we hoped to find fomething that might recom-

Creticum,Cluf, r

Hift. 335. Penfe

Defcription of the Ifland of Candia. 2 1

penfe us for our Difappointment in other places. And indeed we began Letter I.
to cheer up at fight of a ' prickly Acanthus, which we had never feen ^ Acamhus^
any of, but in the Gardens of Europe ; and very often a Man is as much ^'eatus, c.b.
pleas'd with finding a rare Plant in its natural place of Growth, as to light
of an unknown one.

THIS Place is a Tra(5t of Ground cover'd with the downy ■ Folium ' Pol>'umGna-

" - phaloides Prof-

of the famous Alpinm, Profeflor of Padua ; who gave a Cut of it fifty peri Alpini
Years ago, as a Plant different from that which Bauhinut, the celebrated
Profeflbr of Bafil, had call'd by the name of ' Gnaphalium maritimuw. I ' Gnaphalmm
can fafely affirm, there's no difference at all between theie two Plants, a. Pin. 263'
Alpinus, 'tis likely, had never leen the Plant of Bauhinm, tho it is very
common in Italy on the Sea-fide. But to return to the Climate of C&-
nea, we found nothing in that place we are fpeaking of, except the prick-
ly 4 Chicory and Thyme of Crete ; which two Plants delight in Heath * cichorium
and Rocks. I was rejoic'd to meet here with the 5 Thyme of Crete, vin. i26.
which fome Years before I had obferv'd growing about Seville and Car~ 13hymus ?*"

o o pitatus, qui

mona in Andalufia. However, as we expedted to find fbmething more D,°rcoridis» c.
curious than all this, our Difoontent return'd at every ftep we took : for
in fine, my Lord, we went to Candia purely for the fake of fimpling, upon
the Veracity of Pliny and Galen, who gave the Plants of this Ifland piece*
dence of all others throughout the World. We ever and anon look'd at
one another without opening our mouths, fhruggling up our moulders,
and fighing as if our very Hearts would break, efpecially as we follow'd"
thofe pretty Rivulets which water the beauteous Plain of Canea, befet.
with Rufhes and Plants fo very common, that we would not have vouch-
fafed them a Look at Paris ; we whofe Imagination was then full of Plants-
with filver Leaves, or cover'd with fbme rich Down as fbft as Velvety
and who fancy'd that Candia could produce nothing that was not ex-
traordinary !

WE afterwards met with what made us amends. The Neighbour-*
hood of Canea, and chiefly thofe high Mountains where they fetch theis
Snow in Summer, are the mofl fertile of the whole Ifland, and in-
comparably more to be valued than Mount Idt, or the Mountains.- of
Girapetra : thefe of Canea not only afford whatever the others do, but
likewife a multitude of Rarities not to be found elfewhere. Theo-

phrttjlttS) .

2 2 ^Voyage into the Levant

' i * KivyJ phraftus ', Strabo, Pliny, and Ptolomy call'd 'em the white Mountains, on
Thwphr. Hiii. account of their being perpetually cover'd with Snow. From a Paflage
«^. Ptaf. in 8&k*** it Should feem that the Mounts * Cadiftos and DiBymna made
lib. 3. «p-«?. part of thofe Hills. Whatever } Belonitu fays to the contrary, " Theo-
strab. Rer. phrajltu and Pliny with juft reafon amrm'd Cyprefs-Trees to grow there
A^Montes, ' naturally amidft the Snow, as well as in the Valleys. Belonins did not
I i'" s «pN3a'". »ive himfelf the trouble of going thither. They are now call'd the
9 soiin. Poly- Mountains of la Sfacbia, a Village of the fame name, which is difcern'd

•obfer iap 5. ^rom tne t0P °^ 'em> as ^ ou ^efcend to tne Sea Southward, and which has
4 Theophr. & perhaps retain'd that of one of the antienteft ' Towns in Crete, the
> m ' . Saab. Birth-place of the famous Epimentdes. The People thereabouts are named
Reran GeoS. Sfacbiots. and are held to be the beft Soldiers of that Ifland, and the

lib. IO.

mod: dextrous at their Bow. The Pyrrbick Dance is ftill in ufe among
them, as will appear by and by.

A SEARCH after Plants being one of our principal BufmelTes, it
would not feem improper to particularize here all thofe which we ob-
ierv'd about Canea. However, fuch matters being what does not relifh
with every body, and becaufe they would not only fwell this Relation,
but utterly break the Thred of it, I fancy 'twere better to referve this
long Detail of Plants for a Work by itfelf; and only here to give a
Defcription, with a Sculpture, of feme fuch as are fmgular and not known.
'Tis true, diverfifying the Subject is pleafing in Relations of this kind ;
but a Man mull keep within certain bounds, which can't be done when
once he undertakes an Enumeration of the Plants of any Country :
Notice mud: be taken of every Individual, tho ever fb common, that
fo the moll skilful Botanifts may the better form a Judgment of the Qua-
lity of each Country. For example, Candia has hardly a dozen Plants
peculiar to it felf. The other Plants that grow there, in whatever num-
bers, are alio to be found in the Iflands of the Archipelago ; nor are the
greateft part of 'em any Rarity in Europe. 'Twould be wrong to fancy
that the Levant yields nothing but extraordinary Vegetables, fince in
America there grow Mallows, Fern, Nettles, Pellitory of the Wall, as
they likewife do on the Coafts of the Black Sea, among the fcarceft
Plants.

HERE

/<V. T

Jizy.&j.

_^_

Defer iption of the IJland of Cand/a. % 3

HERE follows a Defcription of one of the moft remarkable Plants Letter I.
about Ctnei.

ITS Root is ligneous, crooked, a foot in length, reddifh, inclining STACHjsCre.
to brown, furnilh'd with Fibres not ib deep, half a line in thicknefs, inft.iuiHeib.

1 86

feven or eight inches long. The Stalks are near two foot high, iquare,
two or three lines thick, cover'd with a white velvety Down ; at each
Knot two Leaves, three inches long, an inch and a half broad, roundilTi
at their Bafis like a human Ear, lefTening inlenfibly to a ibrt of bluntifli
Point. Thefe Leaves feel rough, they are wrinkled, full of Veins,
grcenifh-white, waved, curPd, moderately notch'd : they diminiih con-
fidcrably from the middle of the Stalk towards the top, and are not
above an inch and a half long, and eight or nine lines broad ; towards
the Extremity of the Plant they are fcarce half an inch in length. After
thefe Leaves, along the Stalk and Branches grow Flowers difpos'd in
Rings, pretty dole to each other. Every Flower is a Tube, half an
inch long, one line thick, with a hole towards the bottom, whitifh,
opening into two Lips of a Rofe-colour ; the upper more than half an
inch long, guttering, hairy on the back, obtufe, and as it were cut
Hoping at the point : the nether Lip of the fame length, flanVd into three
parts, the two of each fide very finall, and the middlemoft four lines
long, and half an inch broad. The Cup is another Tube, half an inch
long, white, cotton-like, widening iuto five points, purpurine, hard, and
fharp-pointed : they inclofe a Piftiie with four Embryos, lurmounted by
a Filament gridelin, forky, attended with fome Chieves faften'd in their
firil Formation to the innermoft Edge of the Tube, or Pipe of the
Flower. The Embryos afterwards come to be fo many Seeds one line in
length, roundifh-back'd, pointed on the other fide, blackiih. The
Flower has no Smell, and the Leaves without any notable Savour.

THE propereft places for herborizing about Canea, are Calepo, St. George , KaAwc*
St. Eleutherim, a Monaftery a mile and a half off, where fome place the j~^f £*~"
Epifcopal See of Cjdoma, tho there are no Ruins of any great antiqui- "A;;<* uir,tc{+
ty there. According to StrabO) CyJ.onin. was a maritime Town ten miles Remm Geog.
from Jpteron : now Canea is exactly that diftance from P/ileocafiro, which k^aqniA.
is certainly the Town of After on, as we fliall hereafter make appear. So £ydohia.
potent a City as C)domay which us'd to turn the Ballance to which ever strab; ibid,

fide

24 ^Voyage into the Levant.

fide it efpous'd, in the Contefts between Gnojftes and Gortyna : this Cy-

T.Liv.Hift. donia, I fay, which fingly withflood the Force of thofe two Cities

link'd together to deilroy it, mufl have had a good Haven, and confe-

quently Inhabitants ready at all times to lay Chains acrofs it, and hinder

■ tcfctofa $ their Enemies from feizing it. Now in all that part there is ' no other

s«&.pS£' Haven but that of Canea, or that of la, Suda. Tho la Suda feems ftill to

in voce k?iitc. confer ve fbme Fragments of the Name of Cydonia, yet it is built in an

Ifland, and not oppofite to the Lacedemonian Territories in the Peloponne-

' Bibiiot. Hift.y^} by which ' Diodoru-s Siculus and5 Strabo flx'd the Situation of Cydo-

' Smb. ibid. ni&. For the fame reafon, the Ruins of that Town mufl net be look'd

for above Culata at the bottom of la Suda, as ibme pretend ; much leis at

Paleocajlro, which is on one fide of la Suda, where it feems Ptolemy has

• Contra cy- plac'd Cydonia. In fliort, 4 Pliny pofitively decides the Pofition of that

& duxBudroi. Town, fince he marks it as over againfl three fmall Iflands, which doubt-

Piin.Hiii. Nat. lefe e the Ifle of Su Qd and the Rocks or shelves of Turluru.

ho. 4. cap. 12. '

1 P<lufan_ De. THE City of Cydonia was befieg'd to no purpofe by s PbaUcus, Prince
fcliP^ G[xc- of the Phoceans, who perifh'd there with his Troops : being hard prefs'd
Diod. sic. Bib- by " Nothocrates, ilie lent a Deputation to Eumenes King of Pergamus,
«Poiyb Legat. w^° caus'd che Siege to be rais'd by one of his Generals. The Conqueft
79. of it was referv'd for 7 Metellm, to whom it yielded after the Defeat of

Roman, lib. 3. Lajlhenes and Panares. s In the Wars of Augujlus and Antony, the Cydo-
«p. 7- „ianj declar'd for the former, and after the Battel of Atfium they re-

8 DionCnffius, , „ , ^ 1,11 1

lib. 51. ceiv d Marks of his Gratitude. Nothing does more honour to Cydoniay

than the ftriking of Medals, with a proper Legend relating to the State

of that Place, and with the Heads of Augujlus, Tiberius, Claudius, Nero

Jritellius, Vefpafian, Domitian, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius.

' Mavctnetrnf THE 1 2th of May we went and lay at the Convent of the ' Trinity,

JmTedJks. half a day,§ journey from Cafje^ juft by Cape Melier. Formerly this

>,is novo fro- Convent had '" a hundred Monks : at prefent there are not fifty, tho 'tis

Itlmht to be the befl Monaftery of the Ifland, except that of Arcadi. Each Monk
"£f/j Sf°Ai"»' Pays ^eveu Crowns to the " Capitation-Tax. The " Superior made us

from y&kU very welcome, according to the Cuftom of the Oriental Chriftians, to

jtjw'.old. lodge the Pranks in Monafleries. It cofts a Man more when he goes

•• Cantcb, or awaV) than was expended on him while he ftaid: but then he has the

**". conlolation of being among Chriftians. The Revenues of this Convent

'-' H^^- confift

l/.V.J-.

-Sy- <fS-

ft/'r/iv Trtr/r'ra, /ruzzftniz.,

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 25

confift in Oil, Wine, Wheat, Oats, Honey, Wax, Cattel, Cheefe, Milk. Letter I.
Sometimes the Crop of Olives is To great, that the Monks not being -^^^^^
fufficient to get it in, are forc'd to give half the Fruits on the ground for
gathering the other half: they give Mony for beating down luch as are
on the Trees ; but with their Poles they dcftroy half the young Shoots
laden with Buds and BloiToms. They never prune or lop thole Trees,
nor do they ever cultivate the Earth about 'em, but only to fow fome
Seeds in it.

HERE I might properly enough mention the Rule which thefe
Monks follow ; but your Lordfhip will give me leave to go on with the
Relation of our Walk, and to keep againfl another time what Knowledge
I have gain'd of the prefent State of the Greek Church. We took notice
of many rare Plants growing about this Monaftery, among which is a
fort of ' Orchis with a Flower of a furprizing Beauty. 'Orchis

THE Root confifts of two Knobs, white, flefliy, almoft oval, about m3> flore Pai-
fifteen lines long, full of Juice, more hairy than are the Knobs of thofe formafcforoi
of this kind, whofc Fibres only iflue from the lower part of the Trunk. Inft,ReiHerb-
The Trunk or Stalk we are fpeaking of, is about a foot high, four lines
thick, adorn'd from the beginning like the Sheath of a Knife, with two
or three Leaves of about three inches long, and near an inch and a half
broad, veined, light green, much imaller along the Stalk, elpecially in
thole places where they are fucceeded by Flowers. The CoirF, or upper
part of thefe Flowers, confifts of five Leaves, three great and two fmall ;
the great are fix or feven lines in length, three or four in breadth, warp-
ing, fharp-pointed, rofe-colour'd, ftreak'd with green on the back : the
two fmall Leaves are plac'd alternately among the great ; they are hardly
three lines long, and a line in breadth. The Under-leaf of this Flower,
which is larger and fairer than any of the reft, is about fifteen lines long,
and begins in form of a Pidgeon's Breaft, yellowifh green, the Head
inclining to green ; the reft of the Leaf is a fort of a Bifhop's Cope,
cut into three parts, of which the middlemoft is the leaft, mode-
rately indented and fomewhat floping ; the other two parts more
picked. The Cope is of a dun colour, fhagg'd like Velvet, embellifh'd
with a fort of a purple and brilliant, like the back of a Bee ; two
fharp Eminences, greenifh-yeliow and nappy, rifing a little beneath, and
Vol. I. E on

26 ^Voyage into the Levant.

on one fide of the Pidgeon's Breaft, which makes part of an oblong
Cartouche, the lower part whereof is a tawny yellow, fet off with yel-
lowifh Fleurons, terminating like an Anchor. The Tail of this Flower
is about an inch long, two lines thick, and fbmewhat crooked • this in
time becomes Fruit : we faw it not in its maturity.

FROM the Convent of the Trinity we went and lay at that of

Mwadti n St. John, at the entrance of Cape Metier, in a little Plain which has an
eafy Defcent all the way to the point of the Cape. On the way there's
another Monaftery of the lame name, which has Co often been rifled by
the Corfairs, that they let it run to ruin ; tho it was a handlbme Struc-
ture, and fituated in an agreeable Solitude : We enter into it down a De-
fcent of 1 1 5 Steps cut in the Rock, among terrible Precipices, bedeck'd

'Origanum wjth that fine ' Dittany, of which the Antients report fb manv Mira-

Creticum lati- _ * , . . L J

fbiiuiiyomen- cles : here it flouriihes almolt all the Year, as it does at Paris in the
IwCwi- King's Garden. Cmdia was the only place we faw it in ;' and had ' Dio-
ciis inft.Rei rcor^es been there himfelf, he would not have faid, it neither bears

iievb, 199. J

* Diofc. iib.3. Flowers nor Seeds. Cape Metier is one of the belt places of the whole
cap. 36. ifland for fimpling : there it was we firft faw that noble Plant, which
3 Ebenus Procerus Jlpinus calls the * Ebony of Crete, tho it has not any refem-

Cretica P. Alp, , . . „.

Exot. 278. blance to the true Ebony.

S^Sfci CAPE Metier, (to the Eaft whereof, and under covert, lies the Ifle
ticajfmtefcens, ancj Xown of I a Suda, and which the Venetians are in pofTefTion of;) is
fpicato, purpu- call'd-G^o Maleca : but what Name the Antients call'd it by, is not cer-
BieynTiSU. tainly known. If we follow 4 Ptolemy s Account of the remarkable

* Geog. iib.3. Places of Crete, perambulating the Northern Coaft from the Eaft to the
"P. l7. Weftj ^g Guiph 0f iA Suda, the beft and only Bay of the Ifland, mould

* 'a^*^a~< feem to be that of s Amphimalla ; fince he names it immediately after
Ibid™' Retimo. What occafion had that Author to fpeak of a crooked winding
'Aff^A">" Road between Ret imo and la Punt a de Drepano, where there is no fhelter
**■ stephan. for Shipping; ? Therefore the Cape Metier muft be the Cape Drepanum

Amphimalla. l l r . 1 1 n 1 /- . 1 .

plin.Hift.Nat. of Ptolemy, fince it is beyond and weltward of the Gulph of Amphimalla ;

tb.4. cap.12. wYnch with good reafon is fuppos'd to be that of la Suda. But then again
here's another difficulty ; they now call la Punt a de Drepano another Cape
fituated eaftward of the Gulph of la Suda, in the way to Retimo : And
it is from the Refemblance of the Names Drepanum and la Punta de Dre-

fanOy

Defcription of the IJland of Candia.

pano, that all this Perplexity arifes. Either Ttolemy was mif-inform'd, or
that PafTage in him is corrupted, or the People of the Country have
fince confounded the old Names. If we chufe Ptolemy's Defcription be-
fore that of Strabo, the Road of Retimo will be that of Amphimalla ; the
Punt a de Drepano, Cape Drepanum ; Paleocajlro, which is over againft
U Suda will be the Town of Cydonia : Cape Melier muft be taken for
Cape Cyamum; Cape Spado, for Pfacum, and that of Grabufes for Coryc us -.
But would it not be better to fuppofe that Ptolemy means the Gulph of
U Suda, by the Name of Amphimalla, than to arraign him of forgetting
the fineft Bay of the Ifland, to take notice of an unfecure open Road ?
■ Pliny's Account of the Towns of that Coaft, affords us no light : he 'Hift,Nat.ib.
names them without exa&nefs, tho he feems to aim at Method, by run-
ning a Courfe from Weft to Eaft. To return to Cape Metier, or Maleca,
as the Greeks and Italians pronounce it ; if we take Amphimalla for la Suda,
the word Maleca may be an Abridgment of Amphimalla, as the Name of
the City of Jix is certainly the Skeleton of Aqu&fexti&. Firfl they calt.
away Ampbi, as fuperfluous ; then of Malta they made Maleca or Meleca ;
and of Meleca, Melier.

WE return'd to Canea to houfe our Harveft, and on the 24th of May
we fet out for Retimo. We lay at Stilo, a Village ten miles from Canea :
The 2 5th we dined at Almyron, ten miles fiom Stilo. Almyron is a fmall
Fort, with four forry Baftions : jufl by it, is a Houfe of Entertainment,
fuch as it is, with only two large Cufhions, Water, and Coffee ; fb that
if we had not brought our Provifion along with us, we might have
ftarv'd. Some paces from this Houfe rife two curious Springs of Water,
one fweet, the other fait, from whence comes theN&me of Almyron. We "bxpu&f, fal-
walk'd fbme fpace on the edse of the Coaft, till we came to a fmall .f;. ,

1 Ifia.Theop.

River : after which, for four miles or more, the Way is perfectly fright- Hift. Plant.
ful, cut through a Rock till we come within fight of Retimo. This Road x^'/Aiw-''*
is paved, as one may fay, with the Plant call'd a Ixia by Theophrajlus, ^^\flofc'
and White Chamdeon by his Interpreters, as likewife by Diofcorides. I CnicnsCarJinse
have marfhaPd it under the Tribe of Cnicus, on account of the Structure gUmmifer,acu-
of its Flower and Fruit. Columna has given an excellent Sculpture of it : p"pi,reo? Co-
that of Carduus pinea Theophrajli by Profperus Alpinus reprefents it when «';.l n'VRei
it is run up to Seed, and the Leaves fcorch'd by the Sun. Theot>hra(lus column* part

- J l / 1. Profp.Alp.

E 2 lays, exm. 12-t.

28 ^Voyage into the Levant.

lays, this Plant yields a Gum in Crete : the Inhabitants chew it, as they

do Maftick of Sew, not only to make 'em lpit, but to fweeten their

Breath. This Plant is very common in the Ifles of the Arches, in Greece,

Italy, Portugal.

Retimo, v'i- RET I MO is the third Place of the Country : the Turks took it in

GTO*'iibt0h ^47> and fince that time it has been govern'd by a Bafhaw, under the

cap. 17. Viceroy of Canea. Retimo extends alone the Haven, and look'd more

Rithymna, J ■ n

PHn.Hift.Nat. gay and ferene than Canea, tho it is lefs in compafs ; and has Walls fitter
>.4. cap.12. ro indole a Park for Deer, than to keep out an Enemy. The Citadel
was built for the Security of the Haven : it Hands on a lharp Rock,
ftretching into the Sea, and would be of great ftrength, were it not com-
manded by a flat Rock which is on the road to Almyron. This Citadel
commands a Fort they have built at the other end of the Town, to
guard the Haven. This Fort is at prefent ruinous, and the Haven
utterly neglected: Ships of War ufed formerly to be laid up here
below the Citadel : at prefent there is Icarcely Depth enough for fmall
Craft.

WHILE the Turks were befieging Famagoufta in the Ifle of Cyprus,
Ali Bafhaw, their Admiral, would needs attempt an Invafion of Candia :

Leunci. Suppi. but every Place was fb well provided, that none but Retimo was fack'd by
Vlus-Ali, General of the Barbary Squadron.

THE Champain of Retimo is all Rock on the Weft fide: the Road
towards Candia is very delightful. All along the Shore there is nothing
to be feeii but Gardens : Cherries are earlier here, than in any part of
the Ifland. All their Fruit is better tailed : their Silk, Wool, Honey,.
Wax, Ladanum, Oils, &c. are prefer'd to all others. The Water that
lupplies this Town, comes gufhing out of a narrow Valley, a quarter
of a League from the Town foutherly : they have cut a Channel, to
bring it to Retimo, but they lofe one half of it by the way. On the
Road leading to the Valley, there is a handfbme Mofque ; in the Court-

• Caravan- yarc} 0f w a certain Turk has founded ' a Houfe of Reception, where

Sarai, KajC*- ... „

C<*'?nf, « Houfe Travellers, that arrive after the Gates of the Town are Ihut, or who
dafimf^ca- defign to fet out before they are open'd, may lodge and eat for nothing.
ravam. TJiis Houfe is well look'd to : they raife here a beautiful fort of

Calves'*

J572-

7Z6Z.

2kif.ii.<?.

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 29

' Cakes-Foot, which has been taken by mod Authors for the Coloeafia of Letter F.
the Antients : the Natives eat it in their Broth. ■ Amm mnxi.

THE Malmfy Wine of Retimo was in great efteem when the JW- SJJ^jgj
tuns held the Ifland. ' Belo/iius reports, that they ufed to boil this Li- vjg& Coloca-
quor in large Kettles, along the Seafide. Such little quantities are made Pin. i93'. '
now, that we could not get a drop for a tafle, tho we lodg'd at the * obferv- lib.
French Viceconlul's, Doctor Patelaro ; where we lived in Clover, as the
Saying is. He is a fine old Gentleman, has Wit at will, and crowns
Converfation with the Charms of that Greek Eloquence, which is the
Soul of Good-Fellowfhip. He was very young when the Turks made
themfclves mailers of Cane* : his Mother was carry'd away to Confian-
tinop/e, and there prefented, for a beautiful Slave, to Sultan Ibrahim,
who beflow'd her on the Prime Vifier. This latter had one Male Child
by her, who was kill'd at the laft Siege of Vienna, where he was a Ge-
neral Officer.

THIS Viceconful is of the Greek Communion. He was brought
up according to the Faihion there ; but his Parents difcovering more of
a Genius in him than in Lads of his. Age, fent him to Padua to ftudy
Law, and take his Degrees there. Being return'd to Candia, he fet out
for Conftantinople to fee his Mother, who was grown vaflly rich ; he
made himfelf known to her by a Wart behind his Ear : This Wart, which
he took care to ihew us, is crovvn'd with a blackifli Spot, not unlike a
Half- Moon in form. She prefently remember'd this Mark, and would
fain have made ufe of it as an Argument that he was ordain'd to be a
Mujfulman; which to bring about, no Sollicitations were wanting: he
was ply'd night and day with 'em ; they went fo far, as to get him to
accept of Lands to a great value in Wallachia. But all this won nothing .... , .

r ° o ' Atnplex lati-

upon him ; he foon refign'd the Lands, and declared he would die in the folia> five Ha~

Religion of his Forefathers. He leads an agreeable Life, under the Pro- fil^Morjijft.

te&ion of France. ?xon- Part 2°

607. -

THE Hedges which run along the Shore from Retimo, confifl of no- "aa/(w, Diofc,
thing but that fore of ' Arroche, which was known to the Antients by H«ba"AA/fw*
the name of Hdimus. Solinus fancyM it to be peculiar to the Ifle of SrfkdiSiS
Crete; but I met with a great deal cf it in Spain, mJndalufia, and in-Jj?1""'^
the Kingdom of Granada, & hsec Cretka

^-,TT eft. Solin. Po-
i <lk !:l.:ft. C.1JMI.

30 ^Voyage into the Levant.

THE 26th of May we din'd under a fair Plane-Tree, by a running
Spring, ten miles from Retima,. on the way to Candia : this Stream, which
iffues from the Hollow of a Rock, would turn many Mills. Here-
abouts we took notice of fome very fine Plants ; above all, an odd fort

■ rhiomisCrc- of a , pyiom;s wnich we faw not in the other Iflands of the ArchppeUaa.

tica, fruticol.i, ' 1 6

folio fubicnm- That night we took up our Quarters at Daphnedes7 a large Tcwn, whole
corol. Jnft. ' Accefs is a fort of Ladder-like Footing cut in the Rock, very dangerous
RuHerb.io. for Horfes to afcend: but our Guides, afharn'd for us, put on oriskly,
and made their Palfrys mount the Stair-cafe with an aftoniihiog roldnefs.
We folio w'd, and as it happen'd came off with flying Colours., as well
as they. We were conducted to a Papas, who was the chief of the
Town : here we refrefh'd our felves, to our hearts defire. The Town is
encompafs'd with low eafy Hills, of a charming Verdure : the Olive-
Trees and Vines afford a delightful Proipe#, amongft little Woods of
Mulberry and Fig-Trees.

THE 27th of May we travel'd but feventeen miles, and ftopt at
Damajia, another Town, the Champain whereof look'd as if it would
afford us matter for Simpling ; but we were miferably difappointed. Next
day, through a very rugged barren Country, we arriv'd at Candia, eigh-
teen miles from Damajia. I do my ielf the honour, my Lord, to fend
you the Profil of this famous Place, as it appears towards the Road
of Retimo.
Candia. C AND I A is the Carcafs of a large City, well-peopled in the time
of the Penetrans, flourifhing in Trade, and very ftrong : at prefent it is

■ Bazar. iittie better than a Defart, all but the 3 Market-place and thereabouts

where the principal Inhabitants dwell ; the reft is hardly any thing but

Rubbifli, ever fince the lafl Siege, which was one of the moft confidera-

3 chardm'j ble that has been undertaken in our memory. We are told by ' M. Cbar-

oya"' din, that in the Reprefentation prefented to the Divan by the High Trea-

furer of the Empire, concerning the extraordinary Expences for the

three lafl: Years of the Siege of Candia, there is mention made of 700,000

Crowns, given as Rewards to fuch Deferters who turn'd Turks, and to

the Soldiers who had diftinguifh'd themfelves ; and to fuch as had

« j Gold coin, brought in Heads of Chriflians, for which they were allow'd a * Sequin

crowm and * per Head. This Reprefentation fets forth, that 100,000 Cannon-Bail had

half, ,

been

/:>/.z.

Ta.7.$o .

3

Defcription of the Ijland of Candia. g r

been fir'd againft the place ; that feven Balhaws had laid their Bones Letter I.
there, as aho fourfcore principal Officers, 10,400 Janizaries, befides (-*v*-'
other Militia.

THE Port of Candia is fit for nothing but Boats : Ships of Burden
keep under the Ifle of Dw, almoft directly fituated againft the Town
North-Eaft, and which the Franks nonienfkally call ' Standia. It is plain ■ 'e« tW
to be feen, that the Saracens built Candia on the Ruins of the ancient
City of Heraclea. ' Strabo fupplies us with a demonftrative Proof of this, ' Rer. Geog.
in defcribing the Ifle of 5 Thera, which he fays anfwers to the Ifle of , ^nt."En'oi
Dia ; and this Iflaud, according to the fame Author, is fituated over cr San">lin.
againft Heraclea, a Sea-Port belonging to the Gnojjims.

THE Town of Candia is indifputably the Candace of the Saracens.
It is a Remark of Scylitz.es, that in the Language of thefe People, * Chan- 4 Xw-c&g.
dax fignifies an Intrenchment : and lure enough 'twas there where the '} '
Saracens were advis'd by a Greek Monk to intrench themfelves, in the time
of the Emperor Michael the Stammerer. It feems more natural to deduce
the Name of Candia from Chandax, than from Candida, as ! Morofini calls ' Hift. Vener,
it. Pi net as, in his Tranflation of Pliny, unwarrantably takes Mirabeau- '
for Heraclea. According to " Strabo, Heraclea was oppofire to Dia ; and ' 'h^kasw
according to Ptolemy, hard by Cape Salomon. We muft abide by the
Decifion of Strabo, who was far better inform'd of the Pofkion of
Towns than Ptolemy was.

THEY who believe Candia to be the antient Town of Matium re-
built by the S.tracens, are perhaps fomewhat towards the Truth ; fuppo-
fing that in the Specification 7 Pliny gives of the Iflands on the Coaft of » Hift. Nat.
Crete, we ought to read (and it is not at all unlikely) Dia infteadof Via llb-4- "F' I:>
or Cia, as they ftand in the Editions of Dalechamp and Gronovius. In
this cafe Heraclea and Matium would be perhaps one and the fame Town,
bearing different names at different times. It is to be obferv'd, that Strabo
and Ptolemy make no mention of Matium, and Pliny writes thefe two
Names all of a piece : peradventure it muft be read Matium Heraclcu,
without a Comma between ; as who fhould fay, Matium late Heraclea.
It may be likewife, that Matium and Heraclea were two feveral Towns
adjoining clofe to each other, and confequently both oppofite to the
Ifland of Dia : for this Ifland, which is North-Eaft of Candia, might

make

g2 ^ Voyage into the Levant.

make a Triangle equilateral with the two Towns in queftion ; (b that
Strabo and Pliny were in the right, to defignate their Pofition by that of
Dia. Confidering how pofitive Strabo is, that Heraclea was the Sea Port
of the Gnoffians, the powerfulleft People of Crete, there's no doubt but
Candid, the only confiderable Sea-Port in all thofe parts, was built on the
Ruins of Heraclea. According to this Conjecture, the Town of Maiium
ihould be more to the Eaft.

T H O the Town of Candia be at prefent difregarded, yet its Walls
are good Walls, and well terraced : this was done by the Venetians, for
the Turks have hardly repair'd the Breaches of the laft Siege. There are
computed to be in this Town about 800 Greeks paying Capitation: their
Archbiihop is Metropolitan of the whole Kingdom. The Jews are about
1000 in all. As for Armenians, they have but one Church here, and
fcarce exceed 200 in number. Of French there are no more than
three or four Families, a Viceconful, and two Capuchins, who have
purchas'd a very pretty Houle near the Sea. The reft of the Inhabitants
of this Town are all Turks, diftinguifh'd according to the following
Mufter-Roll ; which will ferve to give an Idea of thofe Troops that are in
Places of War among the Turks.

JANIZ^ARIES of the Port, cali'd Capicoulou, ioco; in ten Com-
panies of a hundred Men each.

T. A MA CH CAPICOVLOV, or Soldiers detach'd from feveral Com-
panies, 1 500 Men ; exempted from ordinary Duty.

TERLI-COVLI, or Janizaries of the Country, 2500; in twenty
eight Companies.

SPA HIS, or Horfe of the Country, 1400 Men; divided into two
Regiments, of nine Companies each.

AZ^APS, another fort of Country-Cavalry, in two Regiments of 700
Men each.

DISDARLI, Militia of the Lieutenant of the Cattle ; a Regiment
of 400 Men, in fixteen Companies.

TOPTCHIS and Gebegis, that is, Canoneers and others belonging to
the Ordnance; two Regiments of 500 Men each, arm'd with Sabre,
Half-pike, and Coat of Mail.

SOV-

Defcription of the TJland of Candia. 33

SOVCOVLELIS, that is, Troops appointed for the Guard of the Letter I.
great and little Fort of the Sea, 400 Men ; 350 for the great Fort, and ^f^f^J
50 for the little Fort.

FOR the other Forts of the Town, 1 000 Men.

THESE ought to be the Troops in Candia, according to the Repre-
fentation communicated by their Paymafter to our Viceconful. There's
good reafon to believe that none of thele Bodies were compleat at the
time the Venetians befieg'd Canea, fince in the whole Ifland they could
not raife above 4000 Men to relieve it ; and yet they left none but In-
valids in Candia and at Retimo.

THE Country about Candia confifls of fpacious fruitful Plains, en-
rich'd with all forts of Grain. It is prohibited to export Wheat out of
the Ifland, without the ' Viceroy's leave. In 1700, the Viceroy was ' Begierbey.
Hal) Bafhaw, that voluptuous Minifter, who continu'd Prime Vifier but
nine months in the laft War : his Ingenuity fav'd his Life. Mahomet IV.
upbraiding him with being too good a Man, the Vifier confefs'd it, and
pray'd his Highnefs to eafe him of that heavy Burden, which was im-
mediately done. Some Years after this, he was appointed Viceroy of
Candia, where he was fore troubled with a Diflemper which can't be
cur'd without the help of Mercury. The Greeks being unacquainted
with this Remedy, intreated our AmbaiTador, the Marquifs de Ferriol,
who on his way to Conftantinople put in at Candia, to lend him Ibme
skilful Man to doctor him. The AmbaiTador recommended a certain
Irifb Surgeon he had on board, and who had ferv'd a long time in the
Troops of France. This Surgeon, after having examin'd into the Vice-
roy's lllnefs, very wifely put him into the Powdering-Tub ; but in the
heighth of the Salivation, the Great Man thinking himfelf in danger of
Death, call'd together his Council, to advife what to do with this fame
Surgeon ; raid was the firft. that fentene'd him to have a hundred Bafti-
nadocs : the Council, wifer than he, were of opinion the Surgeon, fince
he had made a beginning, ought to go on to the end. In fine, the Inflam-
mation of his Throat and other parts went off, and the fick Man per-
fectly recovciM. Upon this, the biggelt Lords of the Ifland would needs
try this Operator's Art, one after another ; infomuch that Teagae was
[ atoiofl tired out of his Life in 'nointing the Muffulnta/ii. When we were

Vol. I. F

in

34

A Voyage into the Levant.

in Candia, the Viceroy was bufy'd in creeping a Mofque : for which pur-
pofe all the Greeks were fetch'd in from the adjoining Villages, with
their Tools and Infhuments : like a hackney Horfe, they had com-
monly more Whipcord beflow'd upon 'em than Corn. It mufl however
be confefs'd, that fometimes to comfort 'em up when they were hard
wrought, they would give 'em a Sup or two of Wine • which the Vice-
roy's Officers would, without any Ceremony, fetch out of the Vice-
conful's and French Merchants Cellars.

THE generality of the Bafhaws are rapacious, and in regard they buy
their Places at Conjlantinople, where every thing goes by Auction, they
fpare nothing to lick themfelves whole. He of Canea having, at entring
on his Government, receiv'd from our Factory among other Prefents a Veil
of rich Brocade, he fent to ask fuch another ; and wonder'd that French Peo-
ple, who are noted for Good Breeding and Polite Manners, fhould occafion
a Diforder in his Family : adding, that the Conful fhould have known he
had a couple of Wives, and confequently could not give the Vefl: to
one, without difobliging the other. This Demand being five or fix times
repeated, the Conful fent anfwer there were none of thofe Stuffs to be
had in that Country, but he mull wait till they could be fetch'd from
France. In fine, he was teaz'd fo, that a fecond Vefl was deliver'd to
theBafhaw, by order of the Company. The Turks mufl never be ufed
to Prefents, or thofe Prefents mufl never be difcontinu'd : they look on
the firfl as a Contract for the future. The toppingefl Lords think it no
lhame to beg, and laugh at ye if ye talk of Generofity.

WE happen'd to be in the City of Candia, the night before the Iefler
Bairam ; that is to fay, the Eve of the Day on which the Caravan of Pil-
grims arrives at Mecha. The Commander of the Janizaries march'd round
the Town in Cavalcade, with the Captains of Companies and the fub-
altern Officers ; the People were bufy in cutting the throats of Sheep
and Lambs at the doors of the principal Houfes : the Peafants crouded
the ftreets with thofe Creatures alive, on their backs, in the fame Attitude
as the Good Shepherd is ufually painted. The Heads of thefe Animals
they fmear with red, yellow, or blue ; and then make Prefents of 'em up
and down: this Rejoicing holds three days. The 30th of Maj, the Day
of Pentecoft, and the firfl Day of the Bairam, we went to the Baihaw's

Houfe,

Defer iption of the //land of Candia. gc;

Houfc, where by his order were diih'd out early in the morning, after Letter I.
cheir religious Worfhip was over, no lefs than fifty Muttons or Lambs, ** ■>"v">*-'
(bme roafled whole, or cut in quarters ; others boil'd, or in Ragou : nor
was there any want of Pullets and Rice. We had the pleafure to be-
hold the Tttrkifh Rabble fcrambling for this Meat, and /hatching it from
one another, either to eat it therafelves or carry it off: the Viceroy
(landing all the while at a grated Window, ready to fplit with laughing:
20 or 25 Fellows playing on Inflruments, Drums, Trumpets, Bagpipes,
Tabors, and the like, feem'd to increafe the Difbrder ; thefe Muficians
went in a Body to the prime Men of the Town, for Donatives. M. Va-
lentin, Viceconful of France, at whofe Houfe we were, order'd them
twenty Crowns : the Eve of the Feaft he had fent the Viceroy a Prefent
of Coffee, Sugar, and Confecls. There's not the meanefl Water-Porter
but will have a hand in this Feflival : thefe go to the principal Mens
Houfes, where they empty their Water-Budgets on the Threfhold, to
(hew their Refpects, or rather to get a few ' Parats. In every Hcufe ■ a Coin
there's Merry-making; fome dancing, others eating and drinking: heie TeZ^Denien.
they repeat Verfes, there they range the Streets with mufical Inftrumcnts ;
while others take their pleafure on the Water. In fhort, this Nation, (b
grave, and which always feems to be on one pin, is of a fudden quite
off the hinges, and run about like fo many mad things : happy that thefe
Feflivals return no oftner.

YOUR Lordfhip will believe me, without (wearing, that we were

perfectly fick of thefe Gambols ; but our Guides durft not proceed a

flep during the three days of the Bairani. All this while we had met

with nothing very extraordinary in Candia relating to Plants, and we

pleas'd our felves with hopes of finding fbmething uncommon towards

the South. We began therefore our Journey to Girapetra the lafl Day of

May, and we lay eighteen miles off of Candia, at a Town call'd Trapftno,

where they drive a great Trade in Earthen Pots, Paris, and huge ' Crules 2 k<*°s.

for Oil. We had a mind to take in our way the Valley of Mir'abeau : for

vhich reafon the next day we fet our faces towards thofe great Moun-

ains Northward. We went and lay at Plati, another Village, ten miles

rom Trapfano, after we had crofs'd over many a frightful Hill, from

y hence we could fee the SnoW, which all the Year round covers the tops

F 2 of

I

36

A Voyage into the Levant.

of tliofc Mountains. 'Tis being ib near this Snow, that makes the Wine
of PUti fo flat : the Grape hardly ever ripens there, and the Wine they
brought us feem'd to be Wine de Brie : and yet we found abundance of
■ or of Siti. Plants there. The Plain of ' PUti uied to pay the Venetians 40,000

* Each -weigh- ' Meafures of Wheat by way of Tythe : for want of hands, the Country

ing 45 Found. _ , . . .

now is in a very lorry condition. The Turks never trouble themlelves
for the matter. Befides the Capitation-Tax, they exact half what Corn
each Inhabitant gets off the ground.

THROUGH a Paflage full of Precipices, we entred, the 2d of
June, into the Valley of Mirabeau ; fhut in with other Mountains, which
look'd very agreeable to the Eye, the Valley being difpos'd in manner of
an Amphitheatre, from whence it flretches out as far as to the Sea. All
this Tracl: abounds in Oil and all forts of Grain, as being populous
enough and well labour'd. That night we reach'd Commeriaco, a Towi
fifteen miles from PUti : here we lay at the Sign of the Moon and feven
Stars (anglice in the open Air) among certain Monks, who had remov'
all the Furniture of the Houfe into the Churchy to make way for the
Silk- Worms in the Cells and Dormitories. The 3d of June we arriv'd at
Critza, about three a clock in the afternoon. This Town ftands on the
highefl part of a very fruitful Plain, at the foot of a fteep Rock, abound-
ing with noble Plants. From this place we difcern'd the Road of Mira-
beau, which is very much expos'd, tho it feems to be cover'd by higr
Mountains. The Cadi of Critza defir'd we would come to his Houfe, tc
feel his Pulfe : 'tis the way of the Turks, tho they ail nothing. His
Abode was in a noble Park: almoft every Alley in it was terrae'd anc
planted with Orange, Pomegranate, Cyprefs, and Myrtle-Trees : the
Kitchin-Garden is full of Apple, Pear, and Apricock-Trees, kept a U
mode de Turkji ; that is, left to themfelves, as if they were in a Forefr.
The Houfe is ready to fall about one's ears, for want of repairing the
top : it once belong'd to a Family of the Cornaros of Venice, as appears
by fome Remnants of Infcriptions.

THE / th of June we went down to the Road of Mirabeau, in viev
of the great Mountains of U Side, known to the Antients by the name

* HA!*1iio£«f of 3 Diffe, about twelve miles and a half from Cape Salomon. The Iflanc
suTk i&r. is Yery much pinch'd in between the Road of Girapetra and Mhabeau.

Geo£. lib. 10.. Ja

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 37

In lcfs than two hours we got to the Town : the Land being pinch'd, Letter t,
as I faid, is what makes the Peninfula, where in time paft flood the Town <^~^''m**>J
of Pr.tfos, the Capital of the Eteocretes, whom Homer calls Men of high
Spirits : they had erected a Temple to Dittxan Jupiter, but this Town
was deftroy'd by the Inhabitants of Girapetra, alias Hierapytna.

' HIERAPTTNA was a good Place when Me tellies undertook the ^IAEPArTrT"
Conqueft of Crete. Ariflion, after he had beaten Lucius Baffin, retreated Hierapytna, or
thither, and put it into a very defenfive Condition. ' Oaavius, after he had Girapetra.
been worfted by Metellits, repair'd thither likewiie, to confer with Arijtion : j?iod- ^c-
Advice being brought them that the forenamed General was coming to lib. 36.
befiege 'em in Perfon, they quitted the Caftle, and fail'd away.

AT prefent Girapetra. is a fmall Town, defended by a fquare Fort,
built upon a ! crooked Coaft, on all fides expos'd : from hence are dif- * ei; xoW&> J9
cern'd the Rocks call'd the + ljles of Affes. The Ruins of the old Town strab. Rer. '
confift of ibme very thick Quarters of Walls, and feveral pieces of Pil- f e°s' llb',10
lars up and down in the fields. Gr titer us records ibme Infcriptions of chryfo&Gau-
Hierapytna, and there are extant Ibme 5 Medals of Caligula, on the Re- Nat. lib. 4-
verfe whereof is an Eagle perch'd as it were upon a Thunderbolt : thecap*12*
Tree which is by the fide of the Eagle, teems to be a Palm-Tree. Now eot
I am fpeaking of thefe Medals, I remember there are no Palm-Trees i*E^°nr0-
about Girapetra, and but very few in the whole Ifland ; the Dates they n 1 n n.
eat there, being brought from Africa. M. Spanheim mentions another IE pa n re-
■ Medal of the fame Town, whofe Genius is reprefented by a Woman's
Head charg'd with Turrets: on the Reverie is alio a Palm-Tree and aniEPAnre-

N I Q. N

Eagle. As for thefe pretended Palm-Trees, they are fb bunglingly imepaios^-
done, that they may pafs for Pines. I very well know, Tbeophrajlus af-
firms there were ieveral forts of Palm-Trees in Crete; but that Author
never travel'd any where himfelf, and hardly advances any thing but by
hearfay. We muft like rife cbferve, that the Medal we are fpeaking of
has a Border of a couple of Olive-Branches ; this is a very common
Tree about Girapetra : Perhaps the Intent of reprefenting this Tree, as
alfo the Pine, was to indicate that thefe two Trees were what grew moft
frequent about the City ; the Pine on the Mountains, and the Olive in.
the Champian, where they are careful in watering it. Our Countrymen-
come heie to freight Oils, Cheefe, and Wax.

SIR ABO,

38

A Voyage into /^Levant.

ST R A BO, for determining the Breadth of the Ifthmus of the Penin-
fula of U Si tie, feems to have oppos'd the Town of Minoa againft that of
Hierapytna ; between which he places LyBium. If this be fo, then Mi-
noa can't be far from the Ruins of the Caftle of Mirabeau ; and the
diftance which we have obferv'd, correfoonds to that of Strabo, who
■ (o Stadia, makes this Ifthmus to be about ' feven miles and a half broad,
nb. 10. THE 5th of June we went to vifit the great Mountains, which are

on the Northweft of Girapetra : they are Continuations of Mount Ida.
' T»i 0 IJto ' Strabo informs us, that the City of Hierapytna took its name from a
*V ? Js^VJ- Mountain call'd Pjfm, which in all probability is the Mountain of Males :
& l^Rer' tnat ^Zy wentDy tne nanie of Cyrba before, as Stephens the Geographer
-<3eog. lib. io. relates ; then Pytna, afterwards Qamirw, and at laft Hierapytna. Ptolemy
'U(>cr: riir&. calls it Hierapetra, which is now turn'd into Girapetra.

Ptol. Geo«. r 7 '

lib. 3. cap. 17. WE went the lame day and lay at Calamafca, z Village within feven
,miles of Girapetra. The 6th of June we pafs'd through Anatoli, and
got to Males, about eight miles off Calamafca : we alcend thefe Moun-
tains, without once lofing fight of the Southern Sea. The 7th of ^«»e>
we made the beft of our way, and yet were fain to Ipend the night in a
ftrange By-place, near a Fountain, where we fupp'd by the Light of a
• ilex acukata, dozen huge Holni- Trees, and as many ' Kermes or Scarlet-Berry- Trees,
ra.c.B. pin. which our Greek Conductors iht fire to: thefe lighted us all the night
AJ Tree prod*- l°ng> an^ excited in the Air a Warmth that was very comfortable to us.
ring the ve,- i"hat day we got no further than the firft Snows at the foot of other

milion or Scar- J °

let Grain. Mountains far higher, on which we walk'd the day after. Though thefe
4 Acei AfPhen- Mountains are very cold, yet the Holm-Oaks are very flour ifh in s, and

dgnnos. Belon. J » °7

obf. lib. 1. the Kermes grow as tall as our common Oaks : there are alio fine 4 Ma-
Arer cretica, pies, with Leaves flafh'd into three points. Nothing is more furprizing
p.Aip.Exot.9. than afort of « p]umb.Tree, which all thefe Rocks are embellilh'd with,

» Piiinus Cre-

ticn, montana, and which flourifhes in proportion to the melting of the Snow : its
™fa,inflorcf™- Stalks are not more than half a foot in heighth ; the Branches are very
co"oMnft bufhy, loaded with Flowers of a flefh-colour : its Fruit is hardly bigger
Rei Herb. tnan a white Goofeberry.

fSSSSmL- THE wild Goats mention'd by Solinut, and which * Belonitu has given
pranim oopio- a prjnt 0f run Up and down thefe Mountains in Herds ; the Greeks call

fus eft. Solin. ' r '

poiyhift.cn. ^m Jprimia, a Name they give to all Deer. We wonder'd to fee Olive-

* Obferv. ^ _,

hb. 1. cap. 13. Irees

Defer iption of the Ijland of Candia. go

Trees in thefe Parts, and fo near the Snow too, /bringing up naturally, Letter I.
and molt of 'em refembling thofe which are rais'd by Art : wild Olive- ^^^r^-1
Trees are diftinguifhablc not only by the Fruit, but alfo by the Leaf,
which is rounder and harder. If Hercules the ' Cretan had been inform'd 'orthtiitaaj,

and the Cu-

that thefe Olive-Trees grew in Crete, he would not have given himlelf retes.
the trouble of going among the 2 Hyperboreans, to bring 'em into Greece. ' Paufan. Pe-
Dtodonts ' Siculus with good reafon obferves, that Minerva tranfpianted Eliacfe prion
from the Woods into Orchards your domeflick Olives ; there are whole ,' Bibli°th-Hift.

lib. 5.

Mountains cover'd with 'em, on the road from Smyrna to Ephefus.

AFTER we had wander'd about in the Snow, and pick'd up fuch
Plants as occur'd, we went down to Males, and fo to Girapetra, the 9th
of 'June. The 10th we took the fliorteft Cut to Candia, where we tarry'd
the 13 th, and lay at Dinajla the 14th ; the 15 th we lay at Daphne des;
the 1 6 th on the Coaft of Almyron, partly wet and partly dry, among the
Rulhes: the 17th at Canea, where having difcharg'd our felves of our
Luggage, we again vifited the Neighbourhood of that City and Cape
Melter, to look upon fome Vegetables that were but juft fpringing up the
beginning of the pall Month

THE 28th of June we left Canea, to go fee Mount Ida, the Labyrinth
and the Ruins of Gortyna. Our firft Stage was Almyron, our fecond Re-
timo. The 30th we went and lay at the Convent of Ar cadi, within Arcadi.
twelve miles of Retimo. This Convent, the handfbmeft and richeft of
all the Monafteries in the Ifland, feems to have retain'd the Name of the
antient City of Arcadia, mention'd by 4 Seneca, Pliny, and Stephens the * Quart. Nat.
Geographer : but it is rtrange that Seneca and Pliny mould prefiime to pVn! Hiftl'Na'r*
vouch Theophrafim to an incredible thing; namely, that after the De- llb-3'- "P-4-
ftrudion of this Town, all the Springs round about were dry'd up, and
never ran more till it was rebuilt. In times paft, 5 Arcadia was honour'd * Novel, imp,
with the third Biihoprick of the Ifland : all that's now left, is a great
Convent feated in a Plain, like a Platform, on the top of a Mountain,
at the foot of Mount Ida. The Accefs of this Platform is through an
agreeable Valley, divided into Orchards, Vineyards, and arable Lands ;
overfpread, in fuch places as are unmanur'd, with Holm-Oaks, Kermes,
Maples, Phillyrea, Myrtles, Maftick-Trees, Turpentine-Trees, Pifla-
choes, Laurels, Cyprefs, Storax. The place is full of Springs and Ri-

■yulets.

^.o ^ Votage into the Levant.

Esi 3 bgeivn >fc vulets, and revives the Idea of antient Crete ; which, as Strabo defcribes

'i%i si dvk£- it, is lull to be perceiv d here.

GeU^fe) THE main PiIe of Building is grand and regular; the Church has
two Naves, adorn'd with Gothick Pictures. Is it not a furprizing thing,
that the Greeks, whole Forefathers fo juftly follow'd Nature, mould dege-
nerate into the Tafte of the Goths, who were fuch ill Imitators of her ?
This can be no otherwife accounted for, than becaule fine Performances
require too much Time and Study; In this Houfe there are about a

1 Caioycrs. hundred ' Monks, and two hundred Out-liers, employ' d in Husbandry

Me76^, Fa™. ^^ improving their Farms. The * Superior, a genteel-fpirited Man, en-

cwi£ *' tertain'd us with wonderful Civility : Perfons in his Poll being for the
mod part grave, and of a venerable Mien, 'twould be an Affront to
offer them Mony when one goes away : the Cuftom is, to drop a few

' ^ Gold coin 3 Sequins into the Bafon of the holy Bread, which they prefent to you

worth two i r J l j

crowns and when Mais is over.

THE Cellar is one of the handfomeft places of the whole Monaftery :
there are no lefs than 200 Butts of Wine in it; the bell: Piece is mark'd
with the Superior's Name, and no body dare touch it without his leave.
By way of blefling this Cellar, he once a year, after Vintage is over,
repeats the following Prayer, printed in the Greek Ritual : tranflated, it
runs thus; 0 Lord God, who lovest Mankind, cast thy eyes on this Wine,
and on thofe that fhall drink it ; hlefs thou our Butts, as thou didft of old
the Well of Jacob, the Pool of Siloam, and the Drink of thy holy Afojlles.
0 Lord, as thou wast pleased to be prejent at the Wedding at Cana, where by
changing Water into Wine, thou tnadelt thy Glory manifejt ; fend down now
thy Holy Spirit on this Wine, and blefs it in thy Name. Amen.

THE Lands of this Religious Houfe reach as far as to the Sea to-
wards Retimo, and to the top of Mount Ida on the South. We were
told that the Monks had gather'd this year above four hundred Meafures
of Oil, tho one half of their Fruit was loft for want of hands to get it
in. Below Arcadi, verging to the Sea, is the Convent of Arfeni, which
is reported to be a very handfbme Building ; but we had not time to
vifit it.
h 1 ah THE firft of July we fteer'd our courle to Mount Ida, in company

Ida Mons. with two Fryars, who were order'd by the Superior of Arcadi to conduct

Mount H 1. %. nS

Defer iption of the IJland of Candia. 41

us through the Defarts, which our Guides were ftrangers to. Our Con- Letter 1.
voys brought us to a Fountain eighteen miles from the Convent, and ten •^m^T^-'
miles from the top of Mount Ida. There's no going on horfeback be- ^tZhaTto
yond this Spring : the whole Country here is quite bare, and very ftony.P)'. H|'gh
We left our Horfes to the Care of a Monk, who has a Lodge by this J4«aw \a(.
Fountain, and is a fort of a Stud-mafter to the Monaftery. Our Guides r/^nj^y**
took with 'em Provifion for three days. The two Monks taking their Se«w'-V°'w-

•> ° -rev. otrab.Rer.

leaves of us, we were left to the Stud-mafler, who conducted us to a Geog, lib, M,
Sheep-fold fix miles from the Fountain : we were obliged to flop here,
and tho it was a very uncomfortable place to take up one's Quarters in,
yet it was neceiTary to us, becaufe it was the only place that had Water
all thereabouts. From this Well to the top of the Mountain, they
reckon four miles : we afcended it with much difficulty, on the third of

THIS mighty Mountain, which covers almoft the middle of the
Ifland, has nothing of note but its Name, fo renown'd in antient Hiftory.
This celebrated Mount Ida exhibits nothing but a huge overgrown, ugly,
fharp-rais'd, bald-patcd Eminence ; not the leafl fhadow of a Landskip,
no delightful Grotto, no bubbling Spring, nor purling Rivulet to be
feen : tljere is indeed one poor forry Well with a Bucket, to keep the
Sheep and Horfes from perifhing with Thirfl. All the Cattel bred on
it, are a few fcrubby Horfes, fbme Sheep and ftarveling Goats, which
are fore'd to brouze on the very Tragacantha ; a Shrub lb prickly, that Tejtft&p&t,
the Greeks call it Goats-thorn. Begging ' Dionjfius Periegetes's pardon, as •orbi/rT-
likewile his Commentator's, the Archbilhop of Theffdonica ; the Praifes fc'jpt.ver.$8i.
they beftow'd on this Mountain, feem to be ftrain'd, or at leaft are now vei-c'eundem.
pad their feafbn. They who have advane'd, that the upper parts of
Mount Ida were quite ' bald, and that Plants could not live there for « $«Aa'«^/
Snow and Ice, came much nearer the Truth. Tbeofhraflm talks of a^^g^"1/"^
fort of Vine growing here, and Pliny has done no more than tranflated Eyfant:
the Defcription of it. We look'd about to fee if we could find any fuch ^ifa & ^
Vine, but to no purpofe ; and yet it can't be doubted but thofe Authors ^.^ £f
meant Mount Ida of Crete : for on that of Phrwia there's neither Snow **'***?;.„ The_
nor Ice to be feen. On whatever fide we turn'd our eyes, from one Pimt.iib. 3.
Heighth to another, we faw nothing but bottomlcfs Quagmires, and deep pifn.iuft.Nat.
Vol.1. ^G -AbyiTes1*-1'4-^-'

a 2 A Voyage into the Levant.

Abyfies fill'd with Snow ever fince the Reign of King Jupiter, the firft
of the Name.

FROM the top of Mount Ida, which is the higheft place of the

Ifland, you difcern the Sea, South and North ; but why all this pother

to fee it at fuch a diftance ? and yet this was the reafon of its being

> cited in the caU'd j^ jn the earlieft Antiquity. According to ' HelLidius. it was the

Bibliotheque of \ ,, . ,, ,/ . .

photius. common Appellative of all Mountains from whence a great Extent of
^"ijw.videre. Country could be difcover'd : and if a Suidas may be credited, all Forefls
that afford an agreeable Profpecl, were call'd Ide. As for us, whole
Heads at that time were not bent to fiich book-learn'd Thoughts, and out
of humour that we found nothing but Flint-Stones, and but a few uncom-
mon Plants, being fcarce able to draw one Leg after the other ; yet that
we might have nothing to upbraid our felves withal, we exerted our
utmoft Strength to reach the furthermoft Summit, in fpite of the Winds
which beat us. back again; and getting under the covert of a perpendu
cular Rock, a fancy took us in the heads to make a little Sherbet. That
which the Turks uiually drink, is nothing but an Infufion of Raifins,
into which they throw ye a handful of Snow : the Ptifane of the Hotel-
Dieu of Paris is a much better Draught. We fill'd our Cups with clean
chryflalliz'd Snow-Drops, and here and there a Lay of Sugar between : on
this we pour'd a quantity of excellent Wine ; and then making the Cups,
the whole prefently dilTblv'd. We did our felves the honour to drink
the King's Health and wifh his Majefty long Life and Happinefs : after
which, we the more manfully clamber'd up to the very point of this
Rock, deep as it was. Whither would not one go, with fuch good
Wine, and commanded by fo great a Prince ? This Wine was of the
colour of Alicant, without any Lufcioufnefs, rich, racy, ftrong-body'd,
deep-colour'd, perfumed with a penetrating Spirituoufhefs. The Supe-
rior of Arcadi made us a Prefent of it, or rather we had it in barter for
fome Polychreft Pills, and a few Dofes of Emetick Tartar, which fome
of his Religious had reap'd no fmall benefit from. Emeticks fuit the
Greek Conftitutions in many cafes : moil: of them, especially the Eccle-
fiafticks, who, to give 'em their due, are none of the meagereft of the
Country, have a broad Cheft and a very capacious Belly, which is eafily
mov'd by the leaft Attacks of Antimony.

AS

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 4.3

AS for Plants, there's none on Mount Ida but what may more com- Letter I.
modioufly be come at on the Mountains of Canea ; whole Frefhncfs, Vw/^/r^-'
Verdure, and limpid Streams are really inviting to a Herborizer. We
had, however, the fatisfa&ion of fully obierving the ' Gum Adragant on ' a -Drug u/ed
Mount Ida. I can't understand how ' Belonius comes to aflert fo pofi- „rieSj ^'iaI
tively that there's no fuch thing in Candia. -. fure he had not read the firft S^£j22H
Chapter of the ninth Book of Tbeophrajttts's Hiftory of Plants. The *«.
little bald Hillocks about the Sheep-fold produce much of the Tragacan- t ap^ij! '
tha, and that too of a very good fort. Belonita and Projper Alpinus were Tragacamha
doubtlefs acquainted with it, tho 'tis hardly poffible, from their Defcrip- f^f^T''
tions. to diftinguifh it from the other kinds they make mention of. This 1'neis PU1 '» 'ure''s

rf ftriato. Corol,

Shrub Spontaneously yields the Gum Adragant towards the end of June, inft. Rei Herb.
and in the following Months ; at what time the nutritious Juice of this 29'
Plant, thicken'd by the Heat, burfts open moil of the VefTels wherein
it is contain'd. It is not only gather'd in the Heart of the Trunk and
Branches, but alfo in the Inter-fpaces of the Fibres, which are fpread in
a rcund Figure or Circle like Rays of the Sun, as appears in the Trunk
mark'd A. This Juice is coagulated into fmall Threds, which palling
through the Bark, hTue out by little and little, according as they are
protruded by the frefh Supplies of Juice arifing from the Roots : this
Subftance being expos'd in the Air, grows hard, and is form'd either
into Lumps, or flender Pieces curl'd and winding in the nature of Worms,
more or lcls long, according as matter offers: it feems as if the Con-
traction of the Fibres of this Plant contributes to the expreiTing the
Gum. Thefe delicate Fibres, as fine as Flax, being uncover'd and trod-
den by the Feet of the Shepherds and Horfes, are by the Heat fhrivel'd
up, and facilitate the Emanation of the extravafated Juice.

'TWAS not without fome furprize, we found that a Plant which
Profper Alpinm made no difficulty to lift under the Species of Traga-
ctntba. ought to have been plac'd among thofe of Limonium. Who Limonium

11 ' 1 1 r 1 1 1 .1 n, _ Creticum Tuni-

could imagine that there was any luch thing in the world, as a Plant of peri folio, co-
this laft kind with Juniper-Leaves ? Now I'm mentioning Juniper, that Heri,.a<;
which grows on Mount Ida riles not above two or three foot high : its Ecllinus> ''d *&

*? ° Ti'.igacantna

Twigs Spreading out on the fides, form a Shrub like the Juniper of altera, p. Alp.
the Alps, and there's no diftinguilhing 'em but by their Fruit : that of Exot" 5 *

G 2 Candia.

44. A Vo y A g e into the Levant.

jimiperus de- Candia is as large and as red as that of the red-berry'd Juniper, fb fre-
ratiffimo. Ki- quent in Provence and L.tnguedoc. Befides, the dry Wood of the Candia.
rmn reKmo- Juniper, is colour'd and lcented juft like that kind of American Cedar,
num. coroi. wjth which at Paris they make Borders for Stamps.

Inft.ReiHerb. J L

41. FOR want of better Accommodation, we were forc'd to come back

to the Sheep-coat. The next day, being the 14th of Juljy we dined at
the Spring where we had left our Horfes ; and ftriking towards the South-
weft, we defcended down horrible Precipices, almofl winding about like
a Snail as far as the foot of Mount Ida, the View whereof grew more
and more frightful : afterwards we were all of a fudden raviih'd with a
delectable Contrail. We enter'd into a large open Valley between Mount
Ida and Mount Kjntro, all over planted with Olive, Orange, Pomegra-
nate, Mulberry, Cyprefs, Walnut, Myrtle, Bay, and all lorts of Fruit-
Trees ; the Villages are numerous, and the Waters admirable. Mount
Ida, is a huge Lembick, which fupplies all around it with Liquor, viz.
almofl: one third of the Ifland. The Valley we fpeak of, lofes it felf

' l* Meforia, infenfibly in the fined and fruitfulleft ' Plain of all Candia : this Plain

or Materia. . 1 ■ t

ltretches as far as Girapetra.

W E, according to cuflom, retir'd to a Monaftery ; the Name of it is
cA<7»V?«f5 * Jfomatos. that is to lay, the Monaftery of Angels : the Superior, who

un-bcdy'd, or 111 '

the Monzjhry lpoke Italian, accommodated us the belt he could ; and underftandin»
ofAnga. that we were in purfuit of Simples, he fhew'd us fome Colocajia aloncr the
Brooks thereabouts. We were exceedingly rejoic'd to meet with a Monk
that was going to Canea : he was fo kind as to take charge of a Packet
of Letters for our Conful, who was difpatching a Bark to Marfeilles. I
with pleafure laid hold of the opportunity of alluring your Lordlhip
that I am,

My Lord,
Tour very Humble and

Mofi Obedient Servant,

TOURNEFORT.

L E T-

(45)

m%m%m%'M%m%Mmm£mm%m%:m3m%m$m£mxi

LETTER II.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.

My Lord,

N regard our Enquiries were not limited to Natural Hiflory %'/"¥'<>» °f

0 1 J Candia con*

alone, we left Afomatos the fifth of July, to go lee the Ruins of thud.
Gortyna, 24 miles diftant from that Monaftery. We paft'd
through Apodoulo, a Village within fix miles of it ; and flill
coafting along Mount Ida, crofs very barren Mountains, where nothing
grows but the prickly Pimpernelle, we took up our Lodging very near
the Sea, Southerly, at la ' Trinit'e, another Town fix miles and a half 'Ay!*Tet*-
from Afodoulo. The fixth of July we pafs'd through Novi-Caftelli, a
Hamlet ten miles ofTJ where we arriv'd in very good time. The Ruins
of Gortyna are but two miles from this place.

THE Origin of Gortyna is as obfcure as that of molt antient Towns, gortyna.
What fignifies it to us, whether its Founder was ' Gortyn, Rhadamanthus's & p"o*'
Son, or 5 Taurus, he that ran away with Eurofa on the Coaft of Pheni- ' befaLGnec.
cia ? Certain it is, that after the Decadence of Gnoffus, which the , Cedren.
Romans made it their bufinefs to humble, 4 Gortyna became the moll ComPen- Hift.
puifTant City of Crete ; nay, it had iTiar'd the Sovereignty of the Ifland, Geog. lib. 10.
before the Romans Conquefl: of it; Hannibal thought himlelf fafe there
againft thofe very Romans, after the Defeat of Antiochus : i the vaft •.Juftfo.Hift.
Treafure which' that fam'd African carry'd thither, rais'd him a great
many Enemies ; but he skreenM himfelf from their Infults, by pretending
to depofite his Riches in the Temple of Diana, whither he caus'd to be

carry'd

46 A To y a g e into the Levant.

carry 'd fome Veffels fill'd with Lead. Not long after, he repafs'd into
JJia, with his Gold, which he had hid within the Images of the Deities
he worfhip'd.
K"7?' X h. THE Ruins of Gortyna. are not above fix miles from Mount Ida, at
rbpvrfer «6- the foot of low Hills, as you enter the Plain of Mejfaria, which is pro-
Geog. lib. 10. perly the Granary of the Ifland. Thele Ruins Ihew indeed how magni-
ficent a City it once was, but 'tis impoiTible to look on 'em without con-
cern : they plough, low, feed Sheep among the Wrecks of a prodigious
quantity of Marble, Jalper, Granate-Stone, wrought with great curiofi-
ty : in the room of thole great Men who had caus'd luch ftately Edifices
to be erected, you fee nothing but poor Shepherds, who are fo flupid as
to let the Hares run between their legs, without meddling with them ;
and Partridges bask under their very nofes, without offering to catch
'em. The chief thing we difcover'd among thele Ruins, was a Relick of
one of the City-Gates ; tho the bed Stones of it are miffing, yet it is
dill evident that the Arch was finely turn'd ; the Walls which are con-
1 strab. ibid, tiguous to this Gate, may have been thofe which ' Ptolemy Philoparor,
King of Egypt j had caus'd to be rais'd ; the Mafonry of 'em is very thick,
and fae'd with Brick. This Quarter fecms to have been one of the
belt of the Town ; we met with two Pillars of Granate, eighteen foot
long: not far off are yet to be feen divers Pedeftals, rang'd equally two
by two on the fame Line, for fupporting the Columns of the Frontifpiece
of fome Temple. Here are a world of Capitals and Architraves ; per-
adventure they are the Remains of the Temple of Diana before-men-

• Jupiter Heca- tion'd, or of that of ' Jupiter to whom Menelaus facrifie'd, after he had
Phot. Bib- heard the News of his Wife Helenas Flight, according to Ptolem&us He-
l'°(. llb-5- fi)ejijcn->s Report, which Photius has prelerv'd fome Extracts of As for

Apollo's Temple, mention'd by Stephens the Geographer, it flood in the
' X the Py. middle of the 5 Town, and confequently remote from the place we are
now defcribing. Among other Columns ftill remaining, there are fome
of an exceeding beauty, cylindrical, and gutter'd fpirally ; the thickeft
are not more than two foot four inches diameter. It is notorious, the

♦ fA %- Turks have carry'd away the fineft of 'em, and accordingly there's a
Town of the 4 Village within two Musket-ihot of thele ruinous Fragments, where the

Tea Saints. - O O >

Garden-

A V.J- ". -

■j 7^7////- 6yy j/i& of

t/lt. J{//v//,t .

J^.-H/ /■///,•/-

yl/// '//, : / of CrOJUTlTJV^d .

S. W2>^ Jf//-/??<p /ti/7t/7/2

J///y?/i/ y ^M>?l.'ri ft

7%2/sr.
tf- 3%s S7<7//sr/J//r/- {fas

dtrf ' r^ri /-ry tf/fc/zr

A? fAs ^7on/n .

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 47

Garden-Gates are of two antique Columns, between which they place a Letter If.
Hurdle of Wood for a Door. <S^T\^

THIS Place was calPd Alona : it has gone by the name of the
Town of the Ten Saints, ever fince the ten illuflrious Chriftians, Natives
of this Ifland, fuffer'd Martyrdom there, in the Perlecution of the Em-
peror Decius. Theie Martyrs were Theodulus, Saturninus, Euporus, Ge- Su™»-
lafius, Eumcianus, Zgticas, Cleomenes, Agatbopus, Bafdides, Evarijius. The
Chappel of this Village is ftill crouded with antique Columns, but there's
nothing to be leen of the Tomb of the Martyrs, mention'd by the Con-
tinuator of Conji inline Porpbyrogenetes. Thefe Martyrs are reprefentcd L,b> 2-
in the principal Picture in two Rows, in the lame Pofture and on the
fame Line, erect and ftifT as Stakes. The Greeks celebrate their Feftival
the 2 jd of December, and the Latins have folio w'd 'em therein.

AMONG the Ruins of Gortyna are Columns of red and white Jafper,
refembling that of Cofne in Languedoc : others we law juft like Campan,
which is ufed at Versailles. As for Figures, there are but few, the bell
having been carry'd away by the Venetians. The Statue which is on the
Fountain of Candia, hard by the Mofque beyond the ' Market-place, ' Bazai'
was fetch'd from among thele Ruins : the Drapery of it is excellent, but
the Figure is without e'er a Head ; the Turks having an abhorrence to
the Reprefentation of the Heads of things animate, unlefs upon Coins,
which they are fond enough of, no People more. Rumaging in a By-
place, we met with half a Figure in Marble well-drapery'd : the Leg
was artfully jointed, and the Toes wonderful.

A T the further end of the Town, between the North and the Well,
hard by a Brook which doubtlefs is the " River Lethe ; which, if we may \&<*ih 5
give credit to Strabo and Solwus, ran among the Ruins of Gortyna; are A».s*7of wow-
to be feen fome curious Remains of an autient Church, in the Quarter (feog^k w>!
calPd Metropolis. Though the Architecture of this Church is good, yet 253J*Fn"
towards the left there's a piece of Painting half effaced ; but quite afPr*te,flu'M»q
the Gotbick Tafle ; it was in all probability a Reprelentation of lbme <*orfc Gortywi
Story of the Virgin : there are ftill legible in large Characters ' m* g?j SSTfcSS-
We were not able to unfold a large Infcription in Greek, which is in the 17h,'ft« caP- ' fc
Chancel : it is plac'd too high, and much worn by Time. We however
fancy 'd there was ibmewhat of the Name of Cyrille, which is not un- ktpiaaos.

likely ;

48 ^Voyage into the Levant

likely : for Hiftory makes mention of two Cyrilles Bilhops of Gortyna,
one martyr'd about the beginning of the third Age under the Emperor
Decius, and the other by the Saracens in the ninth Age under Michael the
Stammerer. We inquir'd concerning thefe holy Bilhops, among the Pa-
pas thereabouts ; but they knew nothing of the matter. One of them
told us, that Titus, to whom St. Paul wrote an Epiflle, was Nephew to
n^ Tiny <t a Bilhop of Gortyna ; wherein he was egregioufly miftaken. Titus,
Ju%Siw whom St. Paul calls his dearly-beloved Son, was himfelf the firft Bilhop
'£r wiieL °f Crete ; and it is highly probable, his See was at Gortyna : which was at
,* &c. Epift. that time the principal City, and afterwards it had conftantly the honour
of being the firft Bilhoprick, of the Illand.

NEAR to the Ruins of the Metropolitan Church, we met with more,
which feem'd to be the Remains of fome Monaftery : the Shepherds
there have built them forry Sheltring-places, with huge pieces of antique
Marble, among which there's a Capital adorn'd with two Rofettes, and
a Crofs of St. Job ft of Jerusalem. The Town, doubtlefs, was not de_
ftroy'd till after the Eftablimment of the Knights Hoipitalers, who now
are at Malta. Their Inftitution began in 1099, by Girard Te/tque de
Martigues in Provence. Clofe by thefe Ruins, on the Brook-fide, is the
Refidue of an Aqueduct, the Arch whereof is fix or ieven foot high :
on the fide of it is a noble Cellar, vaulted by Bands, and which feems to
have been a Refervatory for lupplying another Aqueduct, which is on
the way to the Town of the Ten Saints ; the Canal of this Aqueduct was
barely a foot broad.

• Hift. Phot. ' THEOPHRASTVS, ' Varro, and ' Pliny, fpeak of a Plane-Tree
= d ReRuf wmch was at Gortyna, and which ufed to Hied its Leaves according as

• lie- new ones fprouted forth : perhaps there are ftill fome of this kind to be
l'liTn cap' 1 found among thole which grow numerous along the River Lethe, which
4 soiin. Poly- Europa fwam up as far as Gortyna, on the back of her 4 Bull. This Plane-
- * ' ■ ■■„ Tree, always green, was thought lb odd a thing by the Greeks, s that
$sk&i jtuivi they gave out that the firft Loves of Jupiter and Europa were tranfacted
fsSlTzsuf. under the fhade thereof. This Adventure, however fabulous, was what
Theoph. ibid. jn ajj appearance gave occafion to the Inhabitants of Gortyna to ftrike
' Legend. a ' Medal, which is in the King's Cabinet, with Europa on one fide, fir-
ms', ting melancholy on a Tree, partly the Plane and partly the Palm- Tree,

* at

Description of the I/land of Candia. 4p

at the foot whereof is an Eagle, to which fhe turns her back : the fame Letter II.
Princefs is reprefented on the other fide, fitting on a Bull encornpafs'd ^^r^j
with a Border of Bay-leaves. Antonius Augujlinus, Archbifhop of Tar- Dialog. t.
ragona,- takes notice of the like Type. Pliny lays, Endeavours were ufed
to multiply in the Iflaiid the Species of this Plane-Tree ; but it dege-
nerated : that is to fay, thofe of the new Plantation fried their Leaves in
Winter, as well as the ordinary Planes.

THERE are yet extant Medals of Gortyna, ftruck with the Heads
of Germanics, Caligula, Trajan, Adrian, the ' faireft of which is to be ' Legend.
feen in the King's Cabinet : it tells, that they ufed to aiTemble at Gortyna, kpht°n
to celebrate the publick Games in honour of Adrian. roprrs.

BESIDES the Infcriptions of Gortyna reported by Gruterus, which
Honorio Belli, Author of lbme Letters to Clufius, concerning the Cretan
Plants, had communicated to Pigafeta, we copy'd two, which had efcaped
the Inveftigation of Belli.

ryh erpoNXQNTiPOBON' rC

^TO.NLAAMHPOTAT 0 yj/

ANQTTlAr ON JKA2/2>

ATJO TTlAPXOJSniEAJTOJTIQN

Is VjOPTT.NIWKTBOX^HC

OJKOTMeMOCAOCI0€OC
AOKAHTUOAOTO C £P
OAAMT1P 0 TAT 0 C Y 71AT I

KO CAtfSCT HC€N^T

B Y Decree of the lllufinous Senate of Gortyna, Oecumenius Dofitheus
Afclepiodotus of the mott lllujlrious Confulary Dignity, erecled this Monu-
ment to the mofl Muflrious Proconful and Prefectus Pretorius, Petronius
Probus.

HERE follows one that is not fo antient.
Vol.I. H Enr.

$o ^Voyage into the Levant

4GuI0€:0AUP0TTOTAriCO^^Xr€niCK:

K^TUATOTT OT nePIB^NGTTlATO T
erTYXC0CAN^e0J>0HKOT.,.OTOIY0C

fo^Tl nicOWOCTOTAAM^INA^ +

• oftUccn- THE Reverend Father ' Bernard de Montfaucon, a Perfbn of profound
s^Maur? Learning, and of a univerfally-allow'd Capacity, has found out the true

Palaeog. Grace. ~ r tUelpQe
lib. 2. p. 175. SemC Ulcrcul*

'E7n ©t<a5b'§8 T» aytoTara a.p;£e7n<rjto7ra fc, A. niAi's to zreg(6A£7rfs av,9u7raTS
ttTVX& avevtco^n Kou .... 0 Torj/ps -ccrocTS *A«6/s 'A7r7ri'6)V0? to Aa^7rgoTaT»
ivtas^i's B.

THIS Wall was hazily rebuilt under the mott Holy Archbifhop Theodo-
rus, and under the Illufirious Proconful A. Pilius, in the fecond Tear of the
Confulate of the most Illufirious Fl. Appion.

MOST of the other Infcriptions which are in the Fields thereabouts,
are either fra&ur'd, or Co worn away, that there's no decyphering 'em#
The Seafon advancing apace, and the mofl favourable time of the Year
for Simpling being come, we were obliged to quit Gortyna, without being
jui-. Geo*, able to examine its antient Ports. According to Strabo, the chief was at
^ 10* Lebene, ninety Stadia from the Town, towards the South, which is ex-
actly true : for they reckon but thirteen Miles from the Ruins of Gortyna
to the Sea, and twenty four Miles from the laid Ruins to Candia. The
other Port of Gortyna was at Metallum, within fixteen Miles of the Town,
and more to the Weft than Lebene ; for the Lebenians were Neighbours
to the Praifians, a People beyond Girapetra, and confequently to the
South-eaft of Gortyna. Strabo has fb well mark'd the Situation of molt
of the Towns of Crete, that it would be an eafy matter to find them out :
and yet our Geographers are very erroneous in placing them.

THE firft of July, after we had furnim'd our felves with Flambeaux

■ Protopapas. at the ' Arch-Prieft's, we fet forward to fee the Labyrinth; This famous

#/AcIL'ia.TH Place is a fubterranean PafTage in manner of a Street, which by a thou-

fand Intricacies and Windings, as it were by mere chance, and without

the

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 5 1

the leafl regularity, pervades the whole Cavity or Infide of a little Hill Letter II.
at the foot of Mount Ida, Southward, three miles from Gortyna. utT'V^hj

THE Entrance into this Labyrinth is by a natural Opening, (even or
eight paces broad, but fo low, that even a middle-fiz'd Man can't pafs
through without {looping. The Flooring of this Entrance is very rugged
and unequal ; the Cieling fiat and even, terminated by divers Beds of
Stone, laid horizontally one upon another. The firft thing you come at,
is a kind of Cavern exceeding ruftick, and gently (loping : in this there
is nothing extraordinary, but as you move forward, the place is perfectly
iurprizing ; nothing but Turnings and crooked By-ways. The principal
Alley, which is lels perplexing than the reft, in length about 1 200 paces,
leads to the further end of the Labyrinth, and concludes in two large beau-
tiful Apartments, where Strangers reft themfelves with pleafure. Tho this
Alley divides it felf, at its extremity, into two or three Branches, yet the
dangerous part of the Labyrinth is not there, but rather at its Entrance,
about fome thirty paces from the Cavern on the left hand. If a Man ftrikes
into any other Path, after he has gone a good way, he is bewilder'd among
a thoufand Twiftings, Twinings, Sinuofities, Crinkle-Crankles, and Turn-
again Lanes, that he could fcarce ever get out again without the utmoft
danger of being loft. Our Guides therefore chofe this principal Alley
without deviating either to the right or left : in traverfing this Alley, we
mealur'd 1160 good Paces; it is from feven to eight foot high, ciel'd
with a Stratum of Rocks, horizontal and quite flat, as are mod Beds of
Stone in thofe parts. And yet there are fome places where a Man mud:
ftoop a little : nay, about the middle of the Route, you meet with a
PafTage fo very ftrait and low, that you muft creep upon all four to get
along. Generally (peaking, the grand Walking-place is broad enough for
three or four to go a-breaft : its Pavement is fmooth, not many Ups nor
Downs : the Walls are either cut perpendicular, or made of Stones which
formerly choak'd up the PafTage, and which are difpos'd with a ftudy'd
regularity ; but fo many Alleys offer themfelves on all fides, that you
muft take the utmoft care how you proceed.

BEING beforehand refolv'd to make the beft of our way out of this
(iibterranean Maze, our firft Care was to poft one of our Guards at the
mouth of the Cavern, with order to fetch People from the next Town,

H 2 to

IM

t'2 ^f Voyage into the Levant.

to come and help us out, in cafe we return'd not before night : in the
fecond place, each of us carry'd a large lighted Flambeau in his hand :
thirdly, at every difficult Turning we faften'd on the right hand Scrolls
of Paper numbcr'd : fourthly, one of our Guides dropt on the left fmall
bundles of Thorns, and another fcatter'd Straw all the way on the
ground. In this manner we got fafe enough to the further end of the
Labyrinth, where the grand Walk divides it felf into two or three Bran«
ches, and where there are likewife two Rooms or Apartments, almoft
round, about four Tories in breadth, cut in the Rock. Here are divers
Infcriptions made with Charcoal ; fuch as Father Francifco Maria Pefaro,
Capuchin. Frater Tadeus Nicolaus ; and over againfl it, - 1 5 39. Further on,
1444 ; as likewife, Qui fu el firenuo Signor Zjn de Como cap™ de la Fas-
ter i a 1 526 : in Englijb, Here was the valiant Signor John de Como, Captain
of Foot, 1 5 26. In the grand Walk there are alio great numbers of Cyphers
and other Marks ; among the reft, that which is in the Margin, which
feem'd to be put by fbme Jeluit. We oblerv'd the following Dates,
1495, 1560, 1579, 1699. We too wrote the Year of the Lord 1700,
in three different places, with a black Stone. Among thefe Writings
Hiftory of the there are fbme really wonderful : This corroborates the Syftem propos'd
^"fsciencT by me f°me Years ago, concerning the Vegetation of Stones, which in
A»no 1702. thiS Labyrinth increafe and grow fenfibly, without being fufpe&ed to
receive the leafl adventitious Matter from without. When the Perlbns
were graving their Names on the Walls of this place, which are of living
Rock, little did they imagine that the Furrowings wrought by their Pen-
knives would be infenfibly filPd up, and in time adorn'd with a fort of
Embroidery, about a line high in fbme places, and near three lines in
others : lb that thefe Characters, inftead of being hollow and concave, as
they were at firft, are now turn'd convex, and come out of the Rock
like BafTo-Relievo. The Matter of them is white, tho the Stone they
ifTue from is greyifh. 1 look upon this BaiTo-Relievo to be a kind of
Callofity form'd by the nutritious Juice of the Stone, extravafated by
little and little into the above-mention'd Channellings made by the
Graver, like as Callofities are form'd at the extremities of the Fibres of
broken Bones.

HAVING

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 53

HAVING taken thefc precautions, \x was eafy enough to find our Letter II.
way out : but after a thorow Examination of the Structure of this Laby- ^^^ ^^
rinth we all concur'd in opinion, that it could never have been what
Belonius and fome other of the Moderns have fancy'd ; namely,, an an- °M<*». •">• ««

cap. o«

tient Quarry, out of which were dug the Stones that built the Towns of
Gortyna and Gnojfus. Is it likely they would go for Stone above a thou-
fand paces deep, into a place Co) full of odd Turnings, that 'tis next to
impoffible to dif-entangle one's felf ? Again, how could they draw thefe
Stones through a place fo pinch'd in, that we were forc'd to crawl our
way out for above a hundred paces together ? Befides, the Mountain
is fb cragoy and full of Precipices, that we had all the difficulty in the
world to ride up it.

WE look'd about for the Cart- ruts mention'd by Belonius, but all to
no purpofe. It is likewife obfervable, that the Stone of this Labyrinth
has neither a good Hue nor a competent Hardnefs; it is downright
dingy, and rel'embling that of the Mountains near which Gortyna flands.
As for the Town of Gnojfus, it was at a diftance from this Labyrinth, Smb. iter.
towards the Northern Coaft of Crete, about 3125 paces from Gortyna, be-
yond the Mountains ftretching towards Candia, adjoining to fbme ' poor ' K^a?-
Gutter of Water, on the Banks whereof were celebrated the Nuptials of &im. Diod.
Jupiter and Juno. Belonius, of all Men, might have determin'd the Si- HjftfJJ°?"'
tuation of Gnojfus ; he who boafts of having feen the Tomb of * Jupiter, * obr. lib. 1.
juft as 'tis defcrib'd by the Antients : that Tomb mutt certainly have sepukhrum
been in the Town of Gnoffus : and according to Belonius's Route from eius eft in Cie-

•£ ta, in oppido

Candia to Mount Ida, Gnojjus was in his way. Cnoflb. Lac-

IT is therefore much more probable, that the Labyrinth is a natural ""£' ^ u
Cavity, which in times paft fome body out of curiofity took a fancy
to try what they could make of, by widening molt of thofe Paflages
that were too much flraitned. To raife the Cieling of it, they only took
down fome Beds of Stone, which quite throughout the Mountain are
horizontally pofited •, in fbme places they cut the Walls plumb down,
and in clearing the PafTages, they took care to place the Stones very
orderly. The reafon why they meddled not with that narrow Neck
mention'd before, was perhaps to let Pofterity know how the reft were
naturally made ; for beyond that place the Alley is as beautiful as on this

■x fide

^ A Voyage into the Levant.

fide it. It would be a difficult task to rid away the Stones beyond ; unlefs
they were broke to pouder, they could never be brought through this gut-
like PafTage. The antient Cretans, who were a very polite People, and
ftrongly devoted to the fine Arts, took a particular pleafure in flnifhing what
had been but sketch'd out by Nature. Doubtlefs iome Shepherds having
difcover'd thefe fubterranean Conduits, gave occafion to more confiderable
People to turn it into this marvellous Maze, to ferve for an Afylum in the
Civil Wars, or to skreen themfelves from the Fury of a Tyrannical Govern-
ment : at prefent 'tis only a Retreat for Bats and the like. This place is
extremely dry, not the lead Water- fall, Congelation, nor Drein to be feen :
we were told, that in the Hills nigh the Labyrinth there were two or three
other natural Openings of a vail: depth in the Rock, which they may
try the lame experiments upon, if they have a mind. Through the whole
Ifland there are a world of Caverns, and moll of quick Rock; efpecially
in Mount Ida, there are holes you may run your head in, bored through
and through : many very deep perpendicular AbyfTes are feen there ;
may there not be alio many fubterranean horizontal Conduits? efpe-
cially in fuch places where the Lays of Stone are horizontal upon one
another.

I QJU E S T I O N not but they who in France dug the Amphitheatre
LipfiusdeAm- of Douvai near the Font de Ce, were invited thereto by fbme Cavern open
at top, like the mouth of a Well : the Beauty, or perhaps the Oddnefs of
the Place, put 'em upon enlarging it, and forming it like an Amphitheatre,
whofe Outfide is all cover'd with Earth, except the Entrance. This
Work is as wonderful in its kind, as the Labyrinth of Candia ; which, by
the way, People mult not believe to be that which the Antients fpeak
■ Bibiiotii.Hift. of. ' Diodorm Siculus. and * Pliny tell us, there was not the lead foot-
* Hift. Nat. ftep of it remaining in their time. It was made after the model of the
^•r^ "P-1 3- Labyrinth of Egypt, one of the fainoufeft Fabricks in the world, embel-
foipt. Grax.in lifh'd at the Entrance with a great number of Pillars, and a hundred
in Thefeo. ' times bigger than this of Crete, which from antique Medals appears to
have been in the Town of Gnoffm. It's pretty plain, that the Labyrinth
which flill fubfilts in Candia, was known to the following Authors. CV-
Compend.Hift. drenus fays, that Tbefeus palling into Crete, at the requeft of the Sena-
tors of Gortyna, the Minotaur, feeing himfelf forfaken, and going to be

* deliver'd

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 5 5

deliver'd up, went and hid in one of the Caverns of a certain place Letter II.
call'd the Labyrinth. The Author of the grand Greek Dictionary re- ^^s^"*
ports, that the Labyrinth of Crete was a Mountain full of nothing but t*Kw» vnet^
Caverns ; and the Bifhop of Candia, George Alexander, quoted by Vola- owk<uw. Er/-
terranus, defcribes it not only as a hollow Mountain, but made fo by™'^^1'
manual Labour; and not to be perambulated without a Guide, and
lighted Flambeaux, by reafon of its infinite Variety of Turnings.

THE 7th of July we lay at Novi-Cafielli, at the Houfe of Signior
Gieronimo, where we had dined in our way to Gortyna. He fhew'd us a
piece of Antiquity, wonderfully well fancy'd : 'tis a Head of a Ramy
adorn'd with Feftoons, which was found among the Ruins of that fa-
mous Place.

THE 8th of July we travel'd 24 miles, to get to the Monaftery of Afo~
matos, and next day we went on to the Mountain of Kjntro, being told K^7e?.
of a hundred and one Springs ifluing from it : may not this be the Moun-
tain Tbeopbrajlus calls Kjdrios, and which he places very near Mount Ida ? K«JW The-;
In truth, this Mountain is not above four miles from the Monaftery of pfant. lib; 3.
Afomatos, feparated from Mount Ida by the Valley we have been ipeakingcap"'5*
of, which lofes it felf in the Plain of Majferia or Meffaria, according to
the Greek Pronunciation. Kjntro is a bare dry Mountain to look at,
tho it fends forth many fine Springs of Water, which take their courfo
to a large Village call'd Brices, on account of the faid Springs : here we
lay, and were very much pleas'd with our Difcoveries. We went back to
Afomatos, to fetch our Baggage, and lay fix miles from thence in the Con^
vent of Arcadi. The ' Arhute-Tree of Greece, a Plant we had till then ■ Arbutus folio
fought in vain, rejoic'd us not a little : it grows between thofe two cB^vin.^o.
Monafleries, in the chinks of a Rock on the High- way. Here is one AdrachneThe--

.... . .. , _ , ophrafti, Cluf,

of the belt places for herborizing in all the Illand. . Hift. 48.

I FORGOT to tell that at Brices we Jodg'd with an old Papas, very
zealous for his Way of Worfliip, and wretchedly ignorant. He would
have periuaded us in his Balderdafh Italian, that there was an antient Pro-
phecy wrote on the Walls of the Labyrinth, importing that the Czar of
Mufcovywzs very foon to be Mafter of the Ottoman Empire, and deliver
the Greeks from the Slavery of the Turks ; adding, that he very well
remembred, when the Siege of Candia was carrying on, a certain Greek

afTur'd

c6 A Voyage into the Levant.

aflur'd the Vifier Cuperli that he mould take the Place, according to ano-
ther Prophecy of this fame Labyrinth. Whatever Scrawlings are made
upon the Walls of the Labyrinth by Travellers, thefe Simpletons fwallow
down for Prophecies.

A T our Return to Retimo, we were told, that then was the Harveft-
- a pmgufed time for ' Ladanum: and if we had a mind to fee it, we might go to

by the Afcthe- ' ° °

caries and per- Melidoni, a pretty Village lying to the Sea, 22 miles from Retimo : we

lay there the 2 2d of July at a Papas, to whom we were recommended by

Dr. Patelaro. This Papas promis'd to mew us all the Curiofities of the

Country, and, erpecially, an Infcription as you go into a Cavern near

that Town. The next day we were mortify'd at the Proceeding of a

1 soubachi, or " Turk, who was gathering the ? Tythe in thofe parts, and whom we were

cieri;> subde- afraid to invite to Supper, becaufe we had nothing to eat but a Pig. This

legate. T^k underflandins our Defien, came to the Papas, and forbid him

3 Decatie in " r it

Lingua. Fran- mewing us to that Cavern, laying we were Spies, and that we made re-
DLme,"?!'.:- marks on every thing • that he had been infonn'd the very Trees and
>J,rn, <« A>r Plants did not efcape us ; and that he would not let us proceed in this
tum decimae manner, or fuffer us to go and confalt thole old Marbles fill'd with Prophe-
cies relating to the Grand Signior : Though I caus'd him to be told over
and over again, that we were profefs'd Phyficians ; that all we defir'd,
was to oblige the People of the Country, by diftributing to them our
Medicaments gratis ; and that if we took Draughts of the Plants, 'twas
purely for our own Inftxuc'tion, and 'twas what could not poflibly do any
hurt to any body. He did not value what we laid, but threaten'd both
the Papas, and all the other Greeks of the Town, with tne Baflinado.
*&py*(fMi<>u Our 4 Interpreter in vain reprefented to him, that we were Frenchmen,
nsi^Tae- who were come to Melidoni out of curio fity to fee how the Ladanum was
ma^Dra.'-uf- ! gather'd, and that we fhould be very glad to fee the other Rarities of the
man, Drago- Country. Upon this, I took one of our Guides by the hand, that he

man, Tiuche- * , *■ ' J 7

man. might fliew us to the Cavern, hoping to find in that Infcription the Name

of fbme antient City, on whofe Ruins Melidoni was founded. We pleas'd
our felves hugely with the very thoughts of it : but our Guide could not
be prevail'd on to ftir a (lep, any more than the People of the Place,
who trembled like Criminals fentenc'd to Death. The Turk did but
laugh at 'em • he caus'd them to tell me, that tho indeed he had no

power

av. r.

^V-^7

Defcription of the Ijland of Candia. 57

power over us, yet he had over the Greeks, and he'd make 'em know it : Letter II.
adding, that if we were minded to buy Ladanum, we need not take the
pains to go to the place, for that he would lend for lbme of the belt.
After which, he repeated his Prohibitions, and charg'd 'em more elpe-
cially not to inform us how they prepar'd that Drug. Seeing the Man
lb obflinate, we e'en went into the Papas's Houfe, to pack up our things,
and be gone. However, I defir'd they would fell us the ' Inflrument they ' *e?>«;-»« «j
ule in gathering the Ladanum. It is a fort of Whip with a long Handle, influent':
with two Rows of Straps, as you fee it reprefented in the Figure. The '^f'J^ff
poor Greeks were fb intimidated with the Waiwod's Menaces, they did * sll°p or *
not dare to fell it without his leave. We whiiper'd 'em to bring it pri- Bum-Bailies
vately, and put it under the Garden-Gate ; fay what we would to 'em, itf^h0f E£££
figuify'd nothing, fuch an Awe had the Officer over 'em. P'?s " f4""*

° * a -when they

WHILE this was palling, a Mefienger came to us from a Papas, have hdg'd
who happen'd to break a Leg fome few days before : we told him what ^2 £ on»
he was to do to get cured, and then went back to our People. The {mbt the?

o ' x. borrow jrorm

other Papas, who was at the bottom of all this, came and told us with the Greek.
a pleafing Afpect, that he had found out a way to procure us two of
thofe Whips, notwithstanding the Prohibition of the lurk ; that thofe
Inftruments were ufiially fold at two Crowns a-piece, but in regard we
were Dr. Patelard's Friends, we fhould have 'em for a Crown and a half.
I paid him three Crown-pieces in prefence of the Turk, who flill con-
tinu'd fretting and fuming, teeth outwards. As for going to the Cavern,
the Papas told us it was not a practicable thing, becaufe the Officer really
believ'd there were fome Prophecies there, which concern'd the State :
but as for the Ladanum-Bufmefs, he would himfelf conduct: us a By-
way, and the Turk know nothing of the matter. Not in the leafl
diftrufting this Priefl's Sincerity, I afTur'd him we would not fail to gra-
tify him for his trouble ; and thereupon we took horfe, and follow'd after
him : but we were fcarce gone a quarter of a League, e'er the Turk came
up with us florming like a Fury, threatning the Papas .with the Baftinado,
and that he would inftantly let the * Aga of that Precinct know of1 Comma«-
his favouring of Spies. Our Papas, who was mounted on a very hand- "
fome Mule, anfwer'd him like a Bravo, he might write what he would
to the Aga. We went forward on our way, looking out fharp for fome
Vol. 1. I curious

58

A Vo y A a e into the Levant.

curious Plant or other ; but a while after, this long carrot-bearded Trick-
fler bid our Convoy tell us, that, to ferve us, he expos'd himfelf not
only to the Infamy of the Baftinade, but likewife to the Forfeiture
of all he was worth. I made anfwer, we had better go back, for that
we mould be very forry to fee him a Sufferer in any wife on our account.
After fome formal Argumentations, it was agreed we fhruld give him
three Crown-pieces, one for himfelf, and a couple to appeafe the Wai-
wode. This gave us a fufpicion there was a Fellow-feeling between him
and the Turk, and that they jointly contrivM to worm us out of this
Mony : The Greeks have not quite forgot thofe ways of their Forefa-
fyhkfui xj thers in this Ifland, which Plutarch calls Cretifm. The Knavery of this
n'Sn'pIuio Fellow was grofs : he had been better paid, and we mould have thought
Xvt-'r < him an honeft Man into the bargain, if he had gone and given the Turk
xjJTaj. suid. the two Crowns when firft he fpoke to him, to prevent his writing to
the Aga.

"TRAVELLING on towards the Sea, we at length found our felves
Kfeupfr among thofe dry fandy Hillocks, overfpread with the little Shrubs that
yield the Ladanum. It was in the Heat of the Day, and not a Breath of
Wind ftirring ; Circumftances neceffary to the gathering of Ladanum.
Seven or eight Country-Fellows in their Shirts and Drawers were brufh-
ing the Plants with their Whips ; the Straps whereof, by rubbing againft
the Leaves of this Shrub, lick'd up a fort of odoriferous Glue flicking on
the Leaves : 'tis part of the nutritious Juice of the Plant, which fweats
through the Texture of thofe Leaves like a fatty Dew, in fhining Drops,
as clear as Turpentine.

WHEN the Whips are fufficiently laden with this Greafe, they take
a Knife, and fcrape it clean off the Straps, and make it up into a Mafs
or Cakes of different fize : this is what comes to us under the name of
! a* Oque- La Annum or Labdanum. A Man that's diligent will gather ' three Pounds
two Ounces per day, and more, which they fell for a Crown on the fpot :
this fort of Work is rather unpleafant than laborious, becaufe it inuft be
done in the fultry time of the Day, and in the deadefl Calm ; and yet the
pureft Ladam<m is not free from Filth, becaufe the Winds of the preceding
days have blown dull upon thefe Shrubs. To add weight to this Drug,
they knead it up with a very fine blackifh Sand, which is found in thofe

* parts ;

Dtfcription of the TJland of Candia. 59

parts ; as if Nature her felf was minded to teach them how to adulterate Letter II.
this Commodity. It is no eafy matter to difcover the Cheat, when the ,*-''~W-<
Sand has been well blended with the Ladanum : you mull chew it a good
while, to find whether it crackles between the teeth ; or elle you muft
ftrain it after you have difiblv'd it, in order to purify away what has been
added to it.

THE' Shrub which produces the Laianum. is full of Branches, and ' 5:ftu!,La'Ja'

r « mfera, Cretica,

riles two or three foot high. The Flower is an inch and a half diameter, flore purpm-eo.
compos'd of five roie-colour'd Leaves, ragged, round, though narrow at Rei Herb. "19.
firft, mark'd with a yellow Speck, and oftentimes torn in the edges ; Lajanum^n
from the Centre of thefe Leaves arifes a numerous train of yellow Threds Cieta coVii'-
or finall Chieves, topt with a fmall Button of a fillamot colour : they ferv. lib." 1.
inviron a Piftile of two lines in length, ending in a Thred rounded at its SSanim cre-
extremity. The Cup confifts of five Leaves, feven or eight lines long, £Cum'8g- AIp'
oval, veiny, hairy at the edges, picked, and mofl commonly curvated
downwards : when the Flower's gone, the Piftile or Pcintal is chang'd
into a Fruit or Cod about five lines long, almoft oval, hard, obtufe,
brown, cover'd over with a filky Down, wrapt within the Leaves of the
Cup, divided all along into five Apartments or Seed-VeiTels, in which
are contain'd a world of Seeds, red, angular or corner'd, near a line in
diameter. The Root of this Shrub is ligneous, divided into thick Fibres
or Sprigs about eight or nine inches in length, and hairy ; the infide of
the Root is white, the Bark is reddilli inwardly, brown outwardly, and full
of Chaps as well as the Trunk. This Trunk at firft is divided into thick
Branches, about the compafs of one's little Finger, hard, brown, greyifh,
fubdivided into other Branches of a brick-colour, bearing Leaves that
grow by couples, oblong, of a dark green, wav'd at the edges, thick,
veiny, chagrin'd, eight or nine lines in breadth, an inch or fifteen lines
long, blunt-pointed, iupported by a Pedicule or Stalk three or four lines
long and one broad ; thole next the Flowers are almoft round, and their
Pedicule two lines broad. The whole Plant is fbmewhat ftiptick, and
taftcs bwtriffl : it thrives at Paris in the King's Garden, and much re-
lembl. s that kind of Ciftus, which is degenerated from that * Ciftus which ' Ciftl,s mas. '

j folio Chamac-

has Germander Leaves. This laft fort is diftinguifti'd by the Nerves drys. c. b.
crofling the length of its Leaves. . Pin,4<S4-

I 2 IN

So ^Voyage into the Levant.

* Herod. iib.3. IN the time of Diofcorides, and ' before, they ufed to gather the La-
quo*A,',„w danum not only with Whips, but they alio were careful in combing off
tobum/* mch °f ic as was f°un(l flicking to the Beards and Thighs of the Goats,
which fed upon nothing but the Leaves of the Ciftus. The fame Author
AnAt. Diofc. has ^ defcribed this Plant under the name of Ledo».

lib. I. cap. 1 28.

THIS, my Lord, istheRefult of what we remarked about Melidoni :
all this while we hanker'd after the Cavern and Infcription ; it ran in my
head, that the antient Name of this Village muft be mention'd there, and
yet 'twas nofuch thing. I have found out in the heart of Paris, what I
was not able to fee in Candia. Turning over Gruterns's Collection of
Tag. mixviii. infcriptions, I lit upon that of the Cavern of Melidoni, when I lead
aptemis h thought of it J it fpeaks of one Artemis or Sallonius, offering Sacrifice to
02. Mercury on occafion of his Wife's Death. This being a thing of no man-

ner of importance, 'twere needlefs to fet down the Infcription here • it
confifls of a dozen Verfes, yet fb much may be faid, we find in it a
'ovfix t*a- p0int of Geography, namely, That Mount Tallia, which Mercury made
vtia, Ma«Ji( the place of his Refidence, and which had given a Sirname to Jupiter
iltl'tU i was not for fr°m Melidoni. The Cretans held thefe two Deities in great
Zswfc* KfiiTu- veneration : Jupiter is often call'd Cretan and Idean. on Medals • and Mer-

Hefycn. ^ l ' '

'£<&{ ivo.ua. cury, by the People of this Ifland, was ftiled the Beneficent God, the

jSEpt*? Wte Djftributor of Good Things.

tV**W|*« THE 13th of July we took up our Lodging at Veribolia, a fmall

moi.mag. Edit. Town a mile off Retimo ; where nothing's to be feen but Gardens pro-
J u^-P-3'7- ducing mofl; excellent Cucumbers. In vulgar Greek the word Periboli fie
nines a Garden. The 14th of July we refted at Neocorio, another Town
ten miles off Jlmyron, and two from Stilo, at the foot of huge Moun-
tains contiguous to thofe of la, Sphacia : a fine fort of Sage grows plen-
tiful all hereabouts.

salvia Craica, IT isa Shrub very branchy, about two or three foot high; the Body

frutefcens, po- . . 1 j i_ j- • 1 i ■ ■ O ' J

mifeta, foiiis 01 it is crooked, bending in and out, brittle, two inches thick, between
ianfs&'cnipil" red and yellow> cover'd with a grey Bark, chapt ; divided into feveral
Branches, thick as one's little Finger, fubdivided into Sprigs, whofe
Shoots or Buds are four-fquare, that grow by couples, inclining to white,
foft like Wool, garnifh'd with Leaves, which likewifegrow by couples,
two inches and a half long, fometimes more, about an inch or fifteen

lines

canis Sc crilp
Corol. Inft.
ReiHerb. 10

AV.J^

Myr.tfo.

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 6 1

lines in breadth, chagrin'd, whitifh, rugged, neatly vein'd, fliff, hard, Letter II.
pointed beneath, fupported on a Pedicule or Stalk feven or eight lines long,
cottony and ridgy. The Flowers grow like an Ear of Corn in Rows,
very clofe together : every Flower is an inch or fifteen lines long ; it is
like a Pipe whitifh, four or five lines thick, widen'd into two Lips,
whereof the upper is hollow'd like the Bowl of a Spoon, hairy, bluilh
more or lefs, eight or nine lines long. The undermoft Lip is foraewhat
longer, flafh'd into three parts, the two outermoft whereof border on
the Opening which is between the two Lips ; the middlemoft is rounded,
and falls down like a Man's Band cut Hoping or hollow, rough, bluilh,
marbled, flreak'd with white towards the middle. The Chieves (or little
Threds Handing out of the Flowers) are whitifh, divided much like the
Os Hjoides : the Piftile or Pointal, which bends and is forky in the upper
Lip, is garnifh'd with four Embrio's in its lower part, which turn to fo
many Seeds, oval, blackifb, a line long. The Cup is a Tube half an
inch long, dark green, mix'd with purple, irregularly cut into five points,
widening like a Bell.

THIS fort of Sage, in Smell partakes of the ordinary Sage and La-
vender. The Buds of this Plant, being wounded by the fmall Beak or
Sting of certain Infedts, fwell up into Blifterings, hard, flefhy, eight or
nine lines in diameter, almofl fpherical, afh-colour'd, cottony, of an
agreeable tafte, mofl commonly garnifh'd with fbme Leaves like a RufT:
their Flefh is hard, and fometimes transparent as an Icicle. Thefe Tu-
mours or Bladders are rais'd by the nutritious Juice being pour'd out from
the VefTels or Fibres, which were fb torn by the Infect. The like Tu- Salvia Cretica,
mours are alfo found on the ordinary Sage of Candia : they carry 'em to auniiift.343.
market, where they fell 'em by the name of Sage- Apples.

THE 1 5 th of July, after rambling about thefe Mountains, we repair'd
to another 'Town of the fame name, three miles from Canea ; and con- ■ Peribolia, or
tinuing our progrefs towards the Eminences cover'd with Snow, we there Ivle(bl&llianj-
met with more Curiofities of the Vegetable Kind, than we had done
throughout the reft of the Ifland, notwithflanding all the care and pains
it had cofl us. We were oblig'd to return the 1 8 th to C&nea^ to unlade
our Treafure, and to fet our Plants a drying in frefh Paper : after which,
we could not forbear revifiting a Country fo pronrifing of Difcoveries.

But

62 A Voyage into iht Levant.

But when we had reach' d the Sumraities where we hoped to find fbme
very uncommon things, we were forc'd to give over our defign by the
Fog and Snow. The 2 2d of July we began our Journey to the Cape des
Grabufes.

THE 23d we coafled along the Shore, in fight of the. Ifle Saint Odero
•Plin.Hift. or St. Theodore, antiently known by the name of1 Leuee. We lav that

Nat. lib. 4- . , , * •

cap. 12. night at Placatona I the 24th we pafs'd through Chifamo, a imall Town on
1 Neocorio- the Sea-fide, thirty miles from Canea, and ftopt at a poor ' Village two
miles beyond Chifamo, and eight miles from Cape des Grabufes. Chifamo
'Plin.Hift. is the old Town of "' Cifamum, mention'd by Strabo, Pliny, and Ptolemy,
«p.' 12. Here was eftabliih'd, in former times, the 4 twelfth Bilhoprick of the

Ki^ooj.Strab. ^ ,
Rer.Geog. iliaiia.

lib. 10. T H E 25th of July we rambled about the Mountain des Grabufes, and

Leon? ' ' ' defcended down a moft horrible Country to the point of the Cape, and
in view of the Fort des Grabufes, built upon an ill-favour'd Rock, ac-
company'd with two other fmall foriaken Iflands. There's no taking
this Fort but by ftarving it ; nor that way neither, becaufe as on the one
hand whoever would prevent its re-vidtualling, mull keep the Sea all the
Year round ; fo on the other, the North Wind would hinder their ft
doing in the Winter. The Turks had a good Pennyworth of -this Place :
the Venetian Commander Ibid it 'em fome years ago for a Barrel of Se-
quins ; at Conjlantinople all the name he goes by is Captain Grabufe.
This Fort was one of the three Places which the Republick was in pof-
fefTion of, belonging to the Ifland \ all they have now, is la Suda and
Spinalonga. It is highly probable, the Ifles des Grabufes > are the Ifles of
Poriper& H^ft C°rtce and Mjle-> f'nce tne>" are oppofite to the Peloponnefm, or Ifle of
Nat. 1.4. c.i 2. Pelops, now call'd the Morea, from the vaft number of Mulberry-Trees
(in Latin, Moras) that have been planted there.

THERE'S no room to doubt, that the Cape des Grabufes is the Cape
■'jA^MeA* * Cimaros of Strabo. According to him, the Ifland of Crete is divided
ReTGeog. ' into tw7o Capes, a Southern, call'd the Rani's ' Front, and a Northern
i'^°V >w call1 'd Cimaros. So that this Name can luit no other than Cape des Gra-
KfSf&mmr. bufes, or Cape Spada ; but befides' that the latter is neither at the extre-
mity of the Ifland, nor oppofite to the Cape of the Rain's Front, it is

^jnEwbr! ceitaia that the CaPe fyad* is the CaPc ■ Vttfymea of Strabo, fituate on
stiab. ibid. Mount

Defcription Jof the IJland of Candia. 6%

Mount Titytos 3 that is, on the Mountains of Canea, where flood the Letter II.

Temple of Diana Duiynma. *-<^v-^j

TRISTANVS and Segainus have publifh'd a fine Medal of Trajan ) L^end.

AIKTtnim a

on the Reverie is a Woman fitting on a Mountain, by which perhaps is
meant Diana on Mount Tityros, or on the ' Dittynnean Mount, which I ' Mons Die-
take to be Cape Spada. lis nottmoully known, that Diana was ho- iib.4. cap. i2.
nourM in Crete under the name of Diciyune or ] Britomartis, on account of ^jf^f™
a Nymph fo calPd, who was tenderly lov'd by her ; and was named T*fu* HefydS.
Diciynney from being the firft that contriv'd Toils to catch Deer. We tv" apud o-e-
had better hold to what 5 DtoAorm Siculus fays of the matter, than to any ^" y"1^' .
of the Fables concerning; Dtctyane. . »^eI\o^r

«, ■ 77; dulcis Vir-

THE 26th of July we went to view the Ruins of Paleocaftro, or Old go. vide
Crf/?/?, according to the vulgar Greek. The People of the Country know ah^wm*'"
not its antient Name ; it is however not unlikely, that it was the old f *™w' re\e-
Town of Apteron, mice Strabo delivers, that Chifamo was its Arlenal and lib. 5.
Port. Chifamo is indeed a Sea-port, on a large Road form'd by the n«^*'^^f-
Horns of the Cape des Grabufes and Cape Spada : now the Ruins of Paleo- Geog'5Ti'b. 10.*
cajlro are in fight of that Port, on a fteep Rock fortify'd by Nature. At Apferon. plin.
the foot of this Rock, between the Town and the Sea, was that famous Hift- Nat- lib-

. 4- cap. 12.

4 field, where the Sir-enes being overcome by the Mufes in aTryal of*M(j^wA_
Skill in Mufick, loft their Wings, if we may credit feme antient 5 Au- n'w <* »«-
thors. 'Tis even pretended, that the Town took its Name from this &*U-rlwh
Fable; for Apteron (\gp\fas Wing~Ufs ■ : and yet the Etymology given of , ^ ah"'
it by Eufehius of Cefarea, is more likely to be true ; he fays that After as magn. Suidas.
King of Crete was the Perfon that gave it his Name, after he had built it. ! X™ j^t
THERE are not many antient Marbles anions the Ruins of Apteron, V^* W/?

tm V- 11^ i*\itruf> Eufeb.

though they fpr ead a great way. There s a pretty Frize, which lerves for chron. Grsc.
a Lintel of a Door to a Chappel, fabricated in a Rock; and by the way •
it mufl be obferv'd, -that this is one of thofe parts of the Ifland that is
fulled of Grots, and Caverns. Contiguous to the Rock, on one of the
antient Gates of the City, there is ken IMP. CAESAR, 011 a long
Stone, in wonderful fair Characters. We could not find the reft of the
Infcription, to inform us who this Princ* was. Upon another Stone,
which ferves for a Lintel to a Door of a Home-fted, thefe Characters
are to be read; IVIJ. COS. III. By all which it's plain, that it was a

con-

H

A Vo stage into the Levant.

considerable Town in its day, and there would be no room to doubt of
Paleoca/lro's being the Refidue of the old Town of Apteron, were it not
for Strdo's placing it within ten miles from Canea : but the Meafures of
the Antients is what can't be certainly depended upon. Perhaps too this
Place in Strabo is corrupted.

B«f«wi3w BERECTNTHVS, a celebrated Mountain with the Antients, is

doubtlefs in the neighbourhood of Apteron : This Name being loft, it is
very difficult, if not impoflible, to diftinguilli it among thofe which ad-
join to that City. It would however pleafe a Man, to know the place

pio J. sic. Bib- Qf Berecyatbasy becaufe one would never forget the name of a Mountain

liot.Hilt. I10.5. J ' D

where the Daclyli Idxi found out the life of Fire, Iron, and Copper.
Who thefe Daciyli ldxi were, and what opinion may be entertain'd of
'em, will appear in the Elucidations we ihall deliver concerning antient

•BMd&jTi Crete. Meurftus has made an excellent Remark on that PafTase of' Dio-

X,*W> ">Jh3ii dor us Siculus, which (peaks of Afteron.

eaiw. dod. THE 27th of July we went to the Convent of Cougna, juft at the
Entrance of Cape Spada, in fight of Canea : we defign'd to view this
Cape very attentively, but we had not time ; being advis'd by an Ex-
prefs from the Conful of Canea, that a Bark of Provence was departing
for the Negropont, and that he had bargain'd with the Owner to carry
us to Mtlo. We look'd on it as a fair opportunity of going to the Archi-
pelago ; but the Wind fuddenly the next day fell to a Calm, which gave
us full time to pack up our things at Canea, and to commit to writing
the Reflections I had at my leifure made in that Ifland ; fince when, I
havemadefome additions.

Creu jovis THE Ifle of Candia is about 1600 miles from Marfeilles, and 600

magni medio r „ . ,_,, , .. ■ ,. * •

jacet indiia from Lonjtanttnopk. Iney reckon 400 miles from Candia to Damietta in
!cneid. lib?-. Egjpti 3°° t0 Qprus> IO° to Milo, and 40 to Cerigt. Never was Situa-
v. 104- tion niore favourable than this of Candia, for eftablifhing a mighty Em-

pubLi.j.c.io. pire, as Arijlotle well obferves : in the midft of the Sea, and within reach

• 'Aapfreur 0f Europe, Afta, and Africa.

ueog. lib. 10. THE Length of Candia is to be taken from Cape * des Grabufes to
&*.uuvioi>. e- Cape ' Salomon: from one to t'other are computed 250 miles. Strabo
,ufde'n' . makes this Ifland to be 287 miles and a half in length : 4 Pliny 270, be-

* Hift. Nat. ' ° * - J ' '

tib. 4. cap. 1 2. caufe

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 6$

caufe they counted from Cape ' St. John (by forne (till calPd Cabo Crio) to Letter IF.
Cape Salomon. According to the Calculation of'Scylax, it is $12 miles . -f^>?
and a half in Length. As for the Breadth of Candia, it is not above 5 5 gg*"*"
miles as ' Pliny obferves : towards the middle it is broader than in any > periPi.
other part. Strabo and Scylax were in the right to fay it was narrow, ' Ibid-
long, extending from Eaft to Weft: fo likewife Stephens the Geographer
takes notice, that it went by the name of the Long IJland.

BELONIVS was not well appriz'd of the Compafs of the lfle of ^JJ* Jib* u
Candia; he makes it to be 1520 miles : whereas it is not above 600,
according to 4 Mr. de Breves. The Natives are of the fame opinion, and l%j£*l*
this Meafure anfwers to that of Strabo and Pliny ; the ! firft gives it 62 5 ?*™ 1628.
miles in circumference, and the 6 other 590. It is much, that the Mea-4 ^ ^'
fures of the Antients fliould fbme times be 10 conformable to thofe of thelib-4. cap. 12.
prefent Greeks : -fure thefe laft muft have preferv'd 'em by Tradition ; for
they have no certain Meafure, and only go by the common Paces 5 that
is, a Stride of about two foot and a half each. In the Courfe of this Re-
lation it will likewife fometimes appear, that the antient Reckoning was
very wide of the modern.

THE Inhabitants of Candia. both Turks and Greeks, are naturally tall ,e*»5c«?«»5i»

'j T£?£gv ac De-
proper Men, vigorous, robufl ; they love mooting with the Bow, an Ex- fciipt. Gnecio

erciie they have been diftinguiih'd for in all Ages, and Paufanias fays it
was almoft peculiar to them, of all other People of Greece: and there- Goitz.Gwc.
fore we fee nothing but Quivers of Arrows reprefented on the antientefl
Medals of the Ifland. 7 Ephoms has handed down to us a Law of Minos, Geo^'iib"^
ordaining the Children to be taught Archery : the Cretan Bowmen, com-
manded by Stratocles, were a great help in the s Retreat of the Ten Thou- ! De'Expdk4'
fand. It is but reading 9 Jrrian, to fee what ufe they were of to Jlexan- Mex-
der : their Arrows were, in all probability, made of that fort of frnall nea, acufeata. '
Reed, hard, flender, picked, which grows among the Sands of the Ifland, ExoiTio4.'
along the Sea-fide. Theophraflits and Pliny have made mention of it ; and Nec Goityn;*-

0 i j j » ca calamus le-

Profperus Jlpinas has given an untowardly Cut of it. vis exit abar-

T H E Cretans were likewife very expert at the Sling : at this time lib! 7.
they know nothing of it. Livy has not forgot the Advantages which SfSffi?
Eumenes and the Conlul Manilas made of the Archers and Slinsers of "Pr'od-rIT?i-r-

,..._. ° Theop. Hul.

tnis Ifland • one at that famous Battel where Antiochus was overcome Piam.L4.c13.

Vol« *• K byiib.rV.cap.^.

66 A Vo y A g e into the Levant.

t. Liv. Hift. by Sc ipio, the other at the Battel of Mount Olympus, where the Gauls
&i.738.C'c.2i. were worfted. 'Tis obferv'd by Jppian, that there were Cretan Slingers
Athen. Deipn. at -pharfalia in Pompefs Army. The other Exercifes of the Body, Dan-
cing, Hunting, Foot-Racing, Riding, they excell'd in. As for their
Morals, in fpite of all the Care their Legiflators took to mould them,

• Lib. 6. they have been found tardy in many things. ' Polybms writes, that of

all Mankind the Cretans were the only People that thought no Lucre

* KfS-ny <t» • fordid. * St. Paul palfes no Compliment upon 'em, any more than ' Con-
Smei*, yc^c-t ft amine Porpbjrogenetes. Suidas and * Callimachus give 'em the Character

afyti,

Ad Tit.

of Lyars and Impoflors. The Impurity of their Amours are but too no-
Kji'wm, km/- torious, witnefs the Account given us of 'em by ! Strabo, \ Serviust and

■m]rs.xj<&. 7 Athen AUS.

^kIto "tt T H E Prefent Race is not fo bad : they have no Beggars in this Ifland,
4<Csa.i. Cain- nor Pick-pockets, nor Cut-throats, nor Highway Robbers. The Doors

h> jCovem,™8. of their Houfes are faften'd with nothing but flight wooden Bars, which

5 Strab- £*- ferve for Bolts. When a Turk commits a Theft, which rarely happens,

Ceog. lib. io. ' J r* '

* serv. /Eneid. he is ftrangled in Prifon, for the honour of the Nation : then they put
lib io. v.325- his Bocjy into a gack fun 0f Stones, and fo call it into the Sea. A Greek

'Deipn. 1. 13. J '

«c alibi. that is guilty of the fame Crime, is fentenc'd to be baftinado'd, or hang'd

* Boarma. up on the next Tree. The Turks throughout the Ifland are moftly ? Re-

negadoes, or Sons of fuch : the true Turks, take 'em one with another
are much honefter Men than the Renegadoes. A good Turk fays no-
thing when he fees the Chriftians eat Svvines Flefh, or drink Wine : a Re-
negado fhall fcold and infult 'em for it, tho in private he will eat and drink
his fill of both. It mud be confefs'd, thefe Wretches fell their Souls a
Pennyworth : all they get in exchange for their Religion, is a Vefl, and
the Privilege of being exempt from the Capitation-Tax, which is not
above five Crowns a year.

THE Greek Peafants wear on their head nothing but a red Leather
Cap, like that of our finging Boys of the Choir. In the Country, to
skreen themfelves from the Sun, they have no other way but to make a
fort of an Umbrella of their Handkerchief, by putting it over their Cap,
and bearing up one of the Corners with their Stick. The Turks do the
iiiftSi- fame. The Greeks drefs light; nothing but a Pair of blue Callicoe
Drawers, very wide, and falling down to their feet : but thefe Drawers
* are

<rs.

Defcription of the Ijland of Gandia. 6j

are fb deep behind, it makes 'em look ridiculous. Every body here is Letter II.
very neat about the Legs, whereas in Europe the Peafants are moft of 'em *-^~v~^»J
bare-footed, or fadly out at heels. In Town the Greeks wear red Turkj-
Leather Pumps, very pretty and light : in the Country they ufe Buskins, vnianos, Ruf-
or a fliort fort of Boots of the fame ; thefe will lad years, and are as *£J^ Rufi
handfome Wear as that of the antient Cretans in the time of Hippocrates. ticus-
That famous Phyfician (peaks of it as a very commodious Coverture for Amc.' 1,b'de
the Leg and Foot ; and Galen, his Commentator, fays it reach'd up to Gaienus Con>
the Calf, that it was made of a good Skin, with holes in proper places lTb.^xdio™
for the Straps, to fatten 'em on, and keep 'em from falling down. Hippocr.

A S for their Women, we faw fome very pretty ones at Girapetra ; the
reft are but queer Pieces : their Habit difcovers no Shape, which yet is
the beft thing about them. This Habit is very plain : a fort of an upper
Coat of reddifh Cloth, full of Pleats, hung on the moulders by a couple
of Thred-Laces ; their Bofbm is left quite bare. The Females of the
Archipelago wear Drawers ; thofe of Candia have nothing but a Shift under
the Coat we have been {peaking of: their Head-Drefs is much the fame
tor Simplicity ; a white Veil, which falls very becomingly on their moul-
ders. In other refpe&s, thefe Women are none of the moft taking. Few
or none of the Turkijb Women appear in the Streets, and when they do,
not only their Face is cover'd, but their whole Body is muffled up in a
Veft of Cloth. The Jevvilh Women are good clever Girls : The Negrefles
are the uglieft of the whole Ifland.

N O People under the Sun are more familiar than the Greeks ; where-
ever we went, they would come and join company, Women, Girls, Old
Men and Boys : they examin'd our Clothes, Linen, Hats ; the whole
Town would be up, lbme furrounding us, others ftanding on the Ter-
races : not to affront us in the leaft, but out of curiofity to look on us,
elpecially when we went in fearch of Simples among the Mountains,
where no Stranger was ever before feen. After flaring a fufficient pe-
riod at each other, both they and we too would fall a laughing ; they at
our Garb, and we at their Folly. This was in the Street, while our
Guides were bufy'd in looking out a Lodging for us : when a Lodging
was found, we began our March, convoy'd by half the Town. We

K 2 . gene,-

(58 A Vo y a g e into the Levant.

generally tarry'd fome time at the door, till they within had let out the
Smoke, and driven away the Flies, Gnats, Bugs, Fleas, and Pifmires.

THIS Interval they laid hold of, to confult us : the Sick were
brought out into the Street, as in the time of Hippocrates. We often-
times made ufe of the firft Plant that came to hand ; and in Cafes of
NecefTky we made 'em a Prefent of fome Vomitive, to carry off the
Leven of the worft Diftempers. This we did moft commonly to the
Greeks : towards the Muffulmans we adted with more caution, efpecially
in Places through which we forefaw we mult pals in our return back.
Who knows but they might have taken it in their heads to compliment
us with the Baftinado, if our Prelcriptions had wrought too hard ? We
remember'd the Example of the Bafhaw of Candia, and we could not in
that cafe have purfu'd our Travels in lefs than fix weeks. In the Turks
Territories, they very gravely apply, by way of Percuflion, an Inftru-
ment cali'd a Batoon to the Soles of a Man's Feet : they have a Chape-
let, or a String of Beads, of which they drop one at every Blow ; and
fometimes regale you with a few Salutes over the Shoulders : this they do
into the bargain, without asking you any Queftions whether you like it
or no.

THOUGH we had left our fober Air behind us at Paris, yet we
could not help being every moment teaz'd : they would run after us in
luTfo? j£j7«t'- Crouds, bauling out, Phyficians, prescribe us fome Plants to cure our Diftem-
pers. If we continu'd any time on the Highways, either to examine or
take a Draught of a Vegetable, immediately were brought out their Chil-
dren or difeas'd Old Men ; we very readily gave 'em our Medicines and
Advice, which made us lofe a great deal of time : but befides the Con-
ization we had in doing good, we improv'd thofe Opportunities to learn
the vulgar Names of the Plants we met with. I regarded the Brain of
thefe poor Greeks, as fb many living Infcriptions, ferving to retain the
Names quoted by Theopbrafttts and Diofcorides ; thefe, though fubject to
divers Alterations, will doubtlefs lafl: much longer than the moft folid Mar-
ble, becaule they are every day renew'd, whereas Marble wears off, or
is deftroy'd. Thus the Infcriptions I'm (peaking of will, to Ages yet to
come, preferve the Names of many and many a Plant, well known to
thofe learned Greeks, who lived in more enlighten'd happier Times ; we,

in

N

Defcription of the Ifland of Candia. 69

in this manner, got above 500 of thefe vulgar Names, which by their Letter II.
Analogy to the antient Names, are of great affiftance to the bed Bota- ^-*~v^*
nifts in deciding even the mod: familiar Plants.

FOR this purpofe, we principally addrefsM our felves to the Papas
and the Caloyers ; whom we efteem'd as Defcendants, in a right Line,
of thofe fa<*e Curetes, in whole Heads was inclos'd all the Knowledge of
their time : ' and yet they are mere Ignoramus's. They know indeed
how to feather their Nefts a little better than their Neighbours ; and
accordingly the faireft and fatteft PoiTeiTions of the Ifland are theirs. Is
there a Spot of Ground better than ordinary, a fertile Plain, fine Olive-
Trees, well-cultivated Vineyards ? you need not ask who they belong to,
the Monaftery is prefently found : if no Monaftery, a Papas lives not far
off! All the bell; Farms depend on the Convents ; this perhaps is what
has ruin'd the Country, for your Monks are none of the fitted Peo-
ple to keep up an Eftate. Thefe Greek Monks, it is true, are a good
fort of People ; they mind nothing but tilling the Earth, and never con-
cern themfelves about Medicine : they fare hard ; the Wild-Fowl of the
Country were created in vain, but for other Perfons who know their ufe.

THE Burghers of Candia eat well. In the Ifland they breed a world Quicquid in

, ■ _ ^,, , , _ Creta nafcitur3

of Poultry, Pidgeons, Beeves, Muttons, Swine. They have likewife infinko prxftac
great plenty of Turtle-Doves, red Partridge, Woodcocks, Wheatears, ™t£m
Hares ; no Rabbits. Their Butchers-Meat is excellent, except in Winter; S6"'^ pli"-

71 ' Hift. Nat. lib,

when, for want of Pafture, they are oblig'd to feed their Cattel along the 25- cap. 8.
Sea-fide among the Rufhes, which makes 'em fo lean, that their Flelh is
mere Flax. The Greeks doa't much mind that ; they quicken their Ap-
petite with Roots : and this is what gave occafion to the Proverb, which
fays, That a Greek would grow fat on what would ftarve an Afs. This is
literally true, the AfTes eating, none but the Leaves of Plants, whereas
the Greeks devour the very Root. We often wonder'd at their way of
living : Our Seamen, for days together, eat nothing but forry Bifcuit,
with fbme of that briny Mofs which grows on the Rocks of the Sea.

THOUGH there is not in the Ifland half enough People to cultivate
it, yet it produces more Grain than the Inhabitants can confume. It not
only abounds in Wines, but it alfo fupplies Strangers with Oils, Wool,
Silk, Honey, Wax, Cheefe, Ladanum. They raife but little Cotton and

* Se-

jo ^ Voyage into the Levant.

Sefame : their Wheat is excellent, efpecially about Candid, and in the
Plain of Meffaria, but they know not how to make Bread : theirs is a
flabby Dough, rather bruis'd than kneaded ; and this they fb under-bake,
that it flicks to the teeth like Glue. The French People there make very
good Bread, well bak'd and well leven'd ; the Turks are mighty Lovers
of it.
Goitz. gxc THE Wines are exquifite, Red, White, and Claret. No wonder we
fee Medals of the remoteft Antiquity flruck on account of the Cretans,
Xarga vitis mi- the Reverfe whereof reprefents Garlands of Ivy interwoven with Bun-
gemia. Soiin. ches of Grapes. The Wines of this Climate have juft Tartnefs enough
cap. ii. t0 quaijfy their Lufcioufhefs : this Lufcioufhefs, far from being fulfom, is
attended with that delicious Balm, which, in thofe who have once tailed
die Candia, Wines, begets a Contempt for all other Wine whatever. Ju-
piter never drank any other Nectar, when he reign'd King of this Ifland.
Comment. 3. Though thefe Wines are full of Fire, yet Galen met with a fort in this

inlib.Hippocr. ° J

de viftus ra- place, temperate enough to be given in a Fever.

a'cw.6"10101 ' THE Turks can't forbear this tempting Juice, at lead in the night-
time ; and when they get to a Tub of it, they make clear work. The
Greeks drink it night and day, without Water, and in final! Draughts,
happy that they can thus bury the Remembrance of their Mifery. When
Water's pour'd on thefe Wines, the Glafs looks as if 'twere full of
Clouds, ihot through with fluctuating curling Threds; occafion'd by
the great quantity of ethereal Oil which predominates in this divine Li-
quor. An excellent Spirit might eafily be drawn off it ; and yet no-

; P*w; Raki. tkjng is more jeteflable thari the ' Brandy of this Country, as likewife
of the whole Levant. They make it in the following manner : Upon
the Husks or Skins of Grapes, after the laft preflmg, they pour Water :
this, when it has digefled fifteen or twenty days, they exprefs with flat
heavy Stones laid on it; then they diflil it to one half, and throw away
the refl : they would do better to throw it all away, for their Brandy
has no manner of Strength, and fmells of nothing but burning ; it is of
a tawny colour, and prefently corrupts.

THE Wool of Candia, like that of Greece, is fit for nothing but
coarfe Stuffs. Their Silk would be exceeding good, if they knew how
.to manage it. The Honey is excellent, and finells of the Thyme which

the

Defcription of the IJland of Candia. 7 1

the whole Country abounds with : its Scent does not agree with every Letter II.
body ; it is the colour of Gold, and more liquid than that of Narbone. ***** *^
The Wax and Ladanuni of this Ifland are not defpicable. There comes a
Chcele from the Mountains of Spbachia, which is much in requeft. Athe- D^n. lib. 14.
naits reports, that in C rete they ufed to make a fort of thin broad Cheefe
to burn in Sacrifices ; doubtlels they were excellent good, for in thole
Ceremonies they made ule of nothing that was not fb. Though CandU
is a rich Country, yet the belt Land in it is cultivated but by halves ;
nay, two Thirds of this Kingdom is nothing but Mountains, bald, dry,
unpleafant, cut fteep down, and fitter for Goats than human Creatures.

THEY breathe a very good Air in Candia, only the South Wind is
dangerous : Canea was like to be abandon'd twice or thrice upon that
very account. We have before taken notice, that it often fuftocates Peo-
ple in the open Field : we were in the like peril as we came from Cape
Metier to Canea. As for Water, there's none better in the world. All Macros. Piin.
things confider'd, this Ifland may be faid to be happily fituated : and 4. cap. i2. "
accordingly, in time paft, it was call'd the Fortunate Ifland ; the very Nonnuiiietiam
Stones it produces, are valuable. ITSiS?^"

MOST of its Villages are built of white Marble, but in rugged un- ™£"> ^'jj'
hewn Pieces : they make ule of Marble, only becaufe it is more common to». soiin.
than other Stones, for the lame reafon as they ufe Gold and Silver in Ame- ° ) '
rica, becaule they are more common than Iron. What would the Dip&nus's,
the DedduSs, xhtScyllis, the Ctejiphons, the Metagenesis fay, were they to lee
Marble whiten'd over with Lime ? Except Dedalus, all thefe brave Sculp- Plin.H.'ft. Nar.
tors and Architects were Cretans, and the two lafl built the Temple of Dia~ & lib."^^'
na at Efhefus : Thefe great Men did not employ Mud inflead of Mortar, as J*™* ^rA*
the Greeks now-a-days, who only dilute Earth in Water, without mixing
either Lime or Sand with it. In the Villages, the Houfes have but one
Floor, divided into two or three Apartments, illuminated each by an
Opening, wherein they place a flone Pitcher of a foot and a half dia-
meter, open at both ends, and wrought into the Roof ; which is a kind
of Terrace, confiding of a Lay of Earth half a foot in thicknefs, fpread
upon Faggots, fupported by Joyfls plank'd over. Our Countrymen of
Awvergne and Limoge would find full employment here.

IN

72 A Voyage into the Levant.

I N time of Peace, 'tis pleafant living in this Ifland ; but when there's
a War, the whole Country is ravag'd and laid wafte by the Cains .- fb
they call the Greeks, that run over to the Venetians at la Suda or Spina-
long*. Thele Cains, or falfe Brothers, burn, plunder, ravifh, and com-
mit all forts of Inhumanity : they principally endeavour to take the
Turks prifoners, and make 'em pay dear for their Ranfom. If a Cain
happens to be taken, they give him no quarter ; he is either impal'd or
■ a dreadful ' gaunch'd. In the laft War, there was a Fellow offer'd to buy off this
me'ntfo'Zird. laft Punifhment for ' 2000 Crowns : the Balhaw would not liften to't,
* lour Pur/is, but caiTS'd him to be impal'd with the Mony about his neck.
5QD&MMW. WHEN a Wretch is to be impal'd, they lay him naked on the
ground, his Face downward, his Hands ty'd behind his Back, on which
they place a Pack-Saddle ; aftride of this, fit two of the Executioner's
Servants, ' to - keep the Criminal from ftirring, while a third, with both
his Hands fqueezing the Nape of his Neck, keeps him from turning his
Head : a fourth Officer thrufts a Stake in at the Fundament. This Stake
or wooden Pike, after he has fhov'd as far as he can with his hands, is
leilurely driven up with a Beetle or Mallet till the Stake comes out at
the Shoulder or Breaft : then are they ty'd upright to Polls fix'd in the
Highway, and fo left. If they chance not to die immediately, the
Turks that are moil zealous for the Government come about them, not to
exhort 'em to turn MuiTulmans, i.e. Believers, but to rail and call 'em a
thoufand Names. The Turks are fo fully perfuaded that a Man who com-
mits any great Crime is unworthy to be a MiuTulman, that when a Muf-
fulman is condemn'd to die, no body will ailift him in the leaft, becaufe
they believe his Crime has render'd him Jaour, that is to lay, an Infidel
and a Chrrftian.

THE Gaunch is a fort of Eftrapade, dually fet up at the City-Gates :
The Executioner lifts up the Criminal by means of a Pully, and then
letting go the Rope, down falls the Wretch among a parcel of great
Iron Flelh-hooks ; which give him a quick or lafling Mifery, as he chances
to light : in this condition they leave them. Sometimes they live two
or three days, and will ask for a Pipe of Tobacco, while their Com-
rades are curfjng and blalpheming like Devils. A Baihaw palling by one
of theie places in Candia, an Offender that was hanging on the Gaunch,

calls

Defer iption of the IJland of Candia. 75

calls out to him, with a fheer, Good my Lord, fince you are fo charitable ac- Letter II.
cor dim to your Law, be fo kind as to {boot me through the head, to put an ^-^^S*****
end to this Tragedy.

THOUGH the Candiots live a flothful Life, yet they are often on
horfeback a hunting ; they have no notion of hunting a-foot : the great
Men have for the moll: part Barbary Horfes, exceeding beautiful, and
which will hold out much longer here than in France, where the Damps
that fall after Sun-fet, together with the Hay, make 'em fhort-winded
and fubjed to Defluxions. The Horfes of the Ifland are fiery little Tits,
finely chefted and long-taiPd : molt of 'em are fo gaunt- belly 'd, the Sad-
dle wont't keep on their backs. They are Stone-Horfes, and have fuch
a way of clinging to the Rocks, that 'tis amazing to behold how fwift
they'll climb the fteepeft Heights. In the moft hideous Defcents, which
are frequent enough in this Ifland, they tread firm and lure ; but then
you mull give them their head, and truft intirely to their management :
they never mifcarry when they are left to themlelves, any more than
when they bear Burdens almoft twice the weight of a Man : when they
fall, ^tis generally occafion'd by their Riders holding too (trait a Rein ;
for then their Head being rais'd too high, they can't fee how to place
their Feet. Whenever I happen'd to be on the edge of a Precipice,
inftead of pretending to regulate my Horfe's Motion, I fhut my eyes,
that I might not fee the danger, or elfe alighted with my Friends to
fearch after Simples.

OUR Pains were generally recompens'd with fome new Plant, and
thefe forts of Plants are call'd rare, only becaufe they who apply them-
felves to Botany, rarely take the trouble of going to luch wild Places ;
it is more natural to walk about in a Wood. In the firfl Ages of the
World, the Plants call'd ufual or common Plants were only in ufe, be-
caufe of the facility Men had in coming at 'em. It is no eafy task to ac-
count why thofe Vegetables which grow in the Cliffs of a Rock, are fo
different from fuch as are produe'd in a pleafant Spot of Ground : to re-
fer it to the difference of the nutritious Juice, is making us jufl as wife
as we were before ; it is tumbling out of one Difficulty into another, the
common Fault of Phyficians.

Vol. I. L TO

y 4 A Vo y a g e z»f 0 ffe Levant.

TO return to the Horfes of Candia, the Turkiflj or Greek Ladies, 'who
can ufe no other Carriage, by reafbn of the Roughnefs of the Roads,
are never known to difinount ; nor does any ill Accident happen to 'em
by their Horfes falling. Thefe little Creatures are marvellous for courfing
a Hare : this Sport and Hawking are what the Turks moft delight in :
their Hawks are excellent, and as well train'd. They drove a fort of
Trade of thefe Birds, when the Venetians were mafters of the Ifland ;
and they ftill continue to export ibme into Germany, by the way of Ve-
nice: the greateft part are fent to Conjlantinople, as well as thole which
are bred in Ibme other Iflands of the Archipelago.

THE Dogs of Candia are all a Baftard-Greyhound ; mif-fhapen, thrn-
flank'd, and look to be all of one Breed : their Hair is ugly enough, and
they feem to be between a Wolf and a Fox. They ftill retain their an-
tient Quieknefs of Scent, and are all naturally Catchers of Hares and
Pigs : when they meet one another, they don't run away, but flop ihort,
and begin to fnarl and mew their teeth, which is not the uglieft thing
about 'em ; then they very fedately ieparate. There's no other Species
of Dogs in all this Country ; it feems they have been preferv'd there ever
fince the time that Greece flourifli'd : the Antients fpeak of no Dogs but
thole of Crete and Lacedemon, though inferiour to our Greyhounds,
which are very common in Afta, and about Confiantinople ; where they
find wherewithal to exercife their Talents, in the Plains of Thrace and
Anatolia.

WE had, in our Service, one of thefe Candia Dogs, who fometimes
was our Purveyor in places remote from any Town : Arab, for that was
our Dog's Name, had fc great an averfion to any that wore either a
Turbant or Cap, that he would go and hide himfelf in a corner of our
Conful's Porch, where he would patiently wait till they brought him
ibmething to eat, without daring ro enter the Kitchen. As foon as he
fet eye on any that wore a Hat, he would run and fawn upon 'em with-
out end : we took a huge liking to this Automaton, when we were told
of his ufcful Qualifications, and becaufe he feem'd fonder of us than of any
other French People : when we went abroad in the fields, 'twas but giving
him the Signal, by clapping our hands, and calling him three or four
times by his. name, away would he troop, and never return without

bringing

Defcription of the Tjland of Candia,

75

bringing us a Hare or a Pig. In the time of antient Crete, Pigs were not Letter II.
expos'd to fuch Infults ; they were deem'd a facred fort of Animal, ac- *-/">vrV-»
cording to a Fragment of Jgatbocles the Babylonian, preferv'd by Jthe- Deipn. lib. 5.
nxus : and yet their Veneration for Swine was founded upon nothing but
a Fable, of Jupiter's being born on Mount Difte, and fuckled by a Sow :
Arab and his Friends had fared but forrily in thofe days ; the poor Cur
follow'd us to the Sea-fide when we went to take fhipping, but he never
was on board any thing like a Ship in all his life : he avoided them with
as much precaution as the Turbants ; as if he was refolv'd to tarry in the
Ifland, to courfe Hares or hunt Pigs for the benefit of the other French
Folks that continue there. I have the honour to be, with the pro-
founded Refpecl:,

My Lord,

Tour moft Humble and

Mojl Obedient Servant,

TOURNEFORT.

L I

LET-

(76)

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&

itimiiM

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&. ,■<%, M.

I fe&d^«^«^«SI&«$fc!»

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in.

m

LETTER

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.

T/>« Prefent
State of the
Greek Church.

In I453«

My Lord,

^ S in the Courle of this Journey I fhall frequently mention the
Patriarchs, Papas, Caloyers, and other Minifters of the Greek
Church ; I believe that, to avoid Repetitions, it will be the
belt way to throw together in this Letter all that I have learnt
concerning the prefenr. State of that Church.

I T is fallen into fuch terrible diforder fince the taking of Constantinople

by Mahomet II. that no Man, who has the leafl Zeal for Religion, can

reflect upon it without ihedding Tears : and yet, as defirous as the Turks

have appear'd of humbling the Greeks, they never forbad them either the

Exercife or Study of their Religion ; on the contrary, the afore-mtntion'd

Sultan, to fhew them that he did not intend to make any Change in it,

honour'd the firft Patriarch that was elected in his Reign, with the fame

Prefents as the Greek Emperors were wont to make upon thofe occafions.

Thofe Prefents were, a thoufand Crowns in Money, a Paftoral Staff of

Silver, a Camlet Robe, and a white Horfe.

IT is therefore to nothing but the Ignorance of thofe who govern the
Greek Church, that we are to afcribe its Decadence, and this Ignorance
is the Confequence of the Miferies of Slavery. The mofl Learned a-
mong the Greeks, after the Lofs of the Capital of their Empire, took
fhelter in various parts of Chrijlendom ; they carry'd away with them all
the Sciences, and confequently all the Virtues of their Country. Thofe

who

The Trefent State of the Greek Church 77

who continu'd in the Ottoman Empire, and efpecially their SuccefTbrs, Letter III*
did fo grofly neglect the antient Greek, that they were no longer able v-/""v~*-'
to have recourfe to the true Sources of Chriftianity ; and by this means
grew incapable and unworthy of explaining the Gofpel. This Corrup-
tion frill remains among the Greeks ; fcarce can they read what they are
far from underftanding : 'tis great merit in the very Clergy to be able to
read ; and you will be furpriz'd, my Lord, to hear, that in the whole
Turkifh Dominions there are hardly twelve Perfons thorowly skilPd in the
knowledge of the antient Greek Tongue.

THE Greeks flatter themfelves with hopes that the Great Duke of
Mufcovy will one day free them from the Milery they are in, and deftroy
the Turkifb Empire : but befides that there is no likelihood of this Re-
volution, their Knowledge would not be at all improv'd by this changing
their Mailer. The Muscovites themfelves have all their Inftruction from
the Monks of Monte-Santo, who do not delerve the name of Theologifls. "o^t "ASar,

WHAT can we think of a Church, whofe Head, inflead of being %%,"*»"
pitchM upon by the Holy Ghoft, is very often named by the Grand Sig-
nior or his Prime Vifier, who have the utmoft abhorrence for the Chrif-
tian Name ? There cannot be a more melancholy Consideration, than
that the Greeks themfelves were the Authors of this Abomination. The
Turks never exacted any thing but a Sum of Mony for the delivery of-^^, fr
the new Patriarch's Letters-Patent ; the Greeks were the beginners of
letting the Patriarchate to fate, without waiting for the Death of the In-
cumbent. This Dignity is now fold for fixty thoufand Crowns. 'Tis in
vain to alledge that this Mony is given only for the obtaining the Con-
firmation of a Canonical Election : one Patriarch very often dethrones
another, and lome, after having been perhaps twice diiplaced, do again
afcend the Chair. Crufim afTures us, that Simeon of Trebifond was the
firft that undermined the Patriarch Mark, by* prefenting a thoufand Se-
quins to Mahomet II.

NOT that we believe that all Promotions of Patriarchs are Simo-
niacal : on the contrary, we are fully fatisfied that there are Holy Men in
the Greek Church, who wculd not for the world arrive at that Dignity by
Purchafe, and who after their Election canonically perform'd by the :
Bifhops, do give the Vifier the ufual Sum, only with the view of ob-

* taining

73

A Voyage into the Levant.

Caimaca^

taming their Patents, as is practis'd by our own Prelates with relation to
their Bulls. This Conduct: cannot be at all found fault with ; but neither
can the Greeks deny that many of their Clergy have at times -dethroned
their Patriarch, while yet alive, and in full health, by bidding a greater
Sum than what he had given. Is not this a direct Purchafe of the Pa-
triarchate, and can fuch a Practice be call'd by any other name than
Simony ? When therefore a Caloyer is fo far blinded by Ambition, as to
be defirous of purchafing his Miffion of Satan, he forms a Party of
fuch Biihops as are his Friends, who very probably are no Lofers by his
Promotion : he never fails making a Prefent to the Prime Vifier ; the
Bargain is foon flruck, and the Pretender, tho poor, is in no danger of
wanting rich Merchants, who in expectation of a confiderable and cer-
tain Profit, make all the neceffary Advances. If the Prime Vifier is not
at ConftAntitiofle, the bufinefs is treated with the ' Governour of the City.
The Patents are granted upon payment of the Mony ; and the new Pa-
triarch, accompany'd by the Bifhops of his Faction, without giving him-
felf any uneafmefs about what the old Patriarch or the reft of the Clergy
may fay to it, goes to receive the Caftan of the Vifier or Governour :
This Caftan is a Veil: of Linfey-Woolfey, or of fbme other Stuff, which
the Grand Signior preients to AmbafTadors, and Perfbns newly inverted
with fbme confiderable Dignity..

THE Biihops of the Patriarch's party do alfo receive each of them
his Veft, and then proceed in a kind of Triumph to the Patriarchal
£»¥>&• Church, in the Quarter of the Town call'd Balat, preceded by a ' Guard
*pfSZ£i " oi the Portet ty two ' Exempts of the Grand Signior's Guard, by one
chiaout'e. 0f tne Secretaries either of the Prime Vifier or of the Governour of the
City, and by a Troop of Janizaries : the Bifhops and Caloyers bring up
the Rear of the March. When they are come to the Gate of the
Church, they read the Patriarch's Letters Patent, whereby the Sultan
commands all the Greeks in his Dominions to acknowledge fuch a one for
the Head of their Church, to allow him the Sums neceffary for the Main-
tenance of his Dignity, and the Payment of his Debts : all this upon
pain of the Baftiuade, Confifcation of Goods, and Interdiction from the
Church. Fine Marks thefe, of Apoftolical Million ! After the reading
of the Patent, the Gate of the Church is open'd, and the Prime Vi-

fier's

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. j?

Tier's Secretary having placed the Patriarch in his Seat, withdraws with Letter III*
the reft of the Turks, who have each of them his Spill of Mony. v>~\T~vj

W E need not at all doubt but the new Patriarch makes the bed of
his time ; Tyranny fucceeds to Simony : the firft thing he does, is to
fignify the Sultan's Order to all the Archbifhops and Biihops of his Cler-
gy. This new Head of the Church is call'd not only Tour Holinefs, but nix^-mx
Tour All-Holinefs. He continues always to drefs like a plain Caloyer J*^***
and when you falute him, you kils his Hand or his Chapler, carrying
it from your Mouth to your Forehead. His greateft Study is to know
exactly the Revenues of each Prelate ; he impofes a Tax upon them,
and injoins them very ftri&ly by a fecond Letter to fend the Sum de-
manded, otherwife their Diocefes are adjudg'd to the higheft Bidder.
The Prelates being ufed to this Trade, never fpare their Suffragans ■ thefe
latter torment the Papas; the Papas flea the Parifhioners, and hardly
fpr inkle the leaft drop of Holy Water, but what they are paid for be-
forehand.

IF afterwards the Patriarch has occafion for Mony, he farms out the
Gathering of it to the higheft Bidder among the Turks: he that gives mofT
for it, goes into Greece to cite the Prelates. Ufually for twenty thou-
fand Crowns that the Clergy is tax'd at, the Turk extorts two and twen-
ty, fb that he has the two thoufand Crowns for his pains, befides having
his Charges borne in every Diocefs. In virtue of the Agreement he has *
made with the Patriarch, he deprives and interdicts from all Ecclefiaftical
Functions, thofe Prelates who refufe to pay their Tax : if they have not
Mony by them, they borrow of the Jews at exorbitant Intereft, upon
the Security of their Diocelans. This is now that Church, which was
formerly fo flourifhingandfo glorious, in having had for Paftorsthe Atha-
nafuts's, the Bafils, the Chryfojioms.

THE Hierarchy of the Greek Church confifts of fome other Patriarchs
who acknowledge him of Conjlantinople for their Head ; namely, the
Patriarch of Jerufalem, who governs the Churches of Palejline, and
of the Confines of Arabia ; that of Antioch, who refides at Damafctis,
has in his care the Churches of Syria, Mefopotamia, and Caramania ; that
of Alexandria dwells at Gran Cairo, and governs the Churches of Africa
and Arabia. All the other Greek Churches under the Ottoman Empire

depend

8o A Voyage into the Levant.

depend immediately upon the Patriarch of Qonftwtinoyle : the Arch-
bilhops are next in Rank to the Patriarch ; and after thefe come the

• Anhprkp. Bilhops ; next the ' Protopapas, then the " Papas, and laflly the Ca-
\ Curatts- loyers. When you falute an Archbifliop or a Bilhop, you kifs his Hand,
a« *me9™ ancj caj[ him i iour M-Priejlhood, or 4 Tour Beatitude ; Priefts are call'd

4 Ma^ei'oTH , t r t- r

^5, ! lour Holinejs.

* • 'ApinW* THE' Caloyers are Monks of the Order of St. Bsfil ; there is no va-
\lfotfiun. riety of Colour in their Habits. This Body fupplies the Greek Church
' n*V«, «■ with all its Prelates. The 7 Papas are properly no more than fecular
n*Vw«. pneftc and can never rife higher than to be Curates or s Archpriefts.
«. The firft Order confer'd on thofe that dedicate themlelves to the Church,
> AHtQwfait. is that of 9 Reader, whofe Office is to read the Holy Scripture to the

>**Aim. People on high Feftivals : thefe Readers come to be ,0 Chanters, then
■• TTra/^'w- " Sub-Deacons, and fing the Epiftle at Mafs; afterwards they are made
t?AMtfr* "Deacons, and fing the Gofpel : the laft Order they obtain, is the
" uSanr». <i Prieilhood. As for Clerklhip, they do not reckon it to be properly one
of the Sacred Orders ; they call Clerks all the Perlbns in general that are
of the Body of the Clergy : in fome places they apply this Name to
•♦ KtmvJtw ,4 thole who give out the Anthems to the Chanters, to inform them what
IMW'' they are to fay : any Child that is prefent may do as much ; for almoil:
all of them are taught to do it. The Sub-Deacon takes care of the Sa-
bered Ornaments and VeiTels : it is he that prepares the Bread for Confe-
cration, and that lays it upon the Table of Shew -bread ; he receives the
To UcuMmov, Offerings, drefles the Pried, gives him the Water to waih and the Cloth
fryr, to dry his hands. The Deacon holds the Stole, and a Fan to drive away

To gm'Jlp, Fiies from the Altar.

Tan.

THE Prieils are allow'd to marry once in their life-time, provided
they engage themlelves in the Bonds of Matrimony before they are or-
dain'd : they mull for this purpofe declare in Confeilion to a Papas,
that they arc Virgins, and they intend to marry a Virgin. If they ac-
cufe themfelves of having known a Woman, they are incapable of being
Priefts, unlefs they corrupt their Confeflbr with Mony. When the Con-
felTor has received the Depofition of the Deacon, he certifies to the
Bilhop that fuch a one is a Virgin, and defigns to marry a Virgin : he is
marry'd, and afterwards receives the Order of Prieilhood ; but he mull

not

The Vrejent State of the Greek Church 81

not enter into a fecond Marriage : for which reafbn he chutes the ■ hand- Letter III.
fomeftGirl in the Village, and one whole Complexion feems to promife Vr^^^-'
Length of Days. As to Flefh, the Papas are not oblig'd to abftain from
it more than two Days in the Week, any more than the Laymen. The
Library of thele Priefts is ufnally very finall ; their Breviaries and other
Forms of Prayer being very dear, becaufe of the neceflity they are in
of fetching them all from Venice ; they difpenfe with the Repetition of the
Office, tho 'tis in the vulgar Greek : as to Mafs, they fay it not every day,
becaufe it is not lawful for them to lie with their Wives the Eves of the
Days on which they are to celebrate.

THE Papas are diftinguifh'd from the Caloyers by a white2 Fillet, 'n«c«V
about an inch broad, which goes round the bottom of their Caps : and
there are many places where both Papas and Caloyers wear a piece of
5 black Cloth faften'd on the infide of their 4 Caps, and hanging down on ' n*&"*»-
the back ; this gives them the Air of fo many little Prelates. All their ♦ Ka^W-^p
Caps are of the fame form, and made at Monte Santo, flat at top, black, % k**"**''-
and Hoping down over the ears ; their 5 Habit is deep brown, a kind of «*****'*.
plain Caflbck, over which they wear a Girdle of the fame colour. riu*vS)j».

THE Caloyers take the Vow of Obedience, of Chaftity, and of Ab-
ftinence ; they never fay Mafs, if they mean to continue in their Rule :
if they take the Priefthood, they become 6 facred Monks, and never ce- ' Uepiuviyct
lebrate but upon the highefl Feftivals ; upon which account, in Convents ^L^l^".
there are Papas kept to ferve the Church. Thus the Sacred Monks really
differ from the Caloyers only as to Priefthood.

THOSE that would be Caloyers, apply to fbme Sacred Monk to re-
ceive the Habit, and this Ceremony cofls about a dozen Crowns. Before
the Decadence of the Greek Church, the 7 Superior of a Convent was wont ' H^tyw.
to examine the Candidate very ftrictly, and for a proof of his Call, obliged
him to remain three Years in the Monaflery : after the expiration of which
term, if he perfevered in his defign, the Superior brought him into the
Church, and fpoke to him as follows ; " My Brother, behold us now
" ftanding here in the pretence of the Angel of the Lord, before whom
" we muft not lye : Is it not to avoid the Punifhment of fome Crime,
•* that you would retire into this Houfe ? Is it not fome domeftick Difc
" appointment, fome Crofs in Love, fbme criminal Affair, that brings
Vol. I. M « you

82 ^Voyage into the Levant.

* you among us ? No, Father, ufaally reply'd the Perfon examin'd ; it
" is with no other defign than to work out my Salvation, that I defire
" to quit the World and its Vanities." Then the Superior gave him the
Habit, and after lome Prayers he cut off a Lock of his Hair, which he
faften'd with a piece of Wax againft the Wall near the Altar.

THERE is noDifcipline now left among the Greeks; they receive
their Monks very young, and efpecially in the Convents, where you mall
have fbme not above ten or twelve Years old : they are moft commonly
the Sons of the Papas, who are taught to write and read ; befides which,
they are employ'd in the meaneft Offices, and this ferves them for their
Noviciate. In the more regular Convents, the Noviciate is further pro-
long'd two Years after taking the Habit : thefe Convents are thofe of
Monte Santo, of St. Luke near Thebes, of Arcadi in Candia, of Neamoni at
Scio, of Mavromolo upon the Bofphorus, the Monafleries of the I/les of Prin-
ces, &c. Thefe poor Novices are fadly troubled with Vermin ; we taught
• Delphinium them the ufe of ' Staves-ager, or Loufewort, to kill them : the Lord has pro-

Platani folio, ii/-ityi-

staphifagria vided for them very well, for the Herb is common all over that Country.

ReiHab.428. THE Caloyers and other Ecclefiafticks are very flovenly, their Hair
and Beard are utterly neglected ; for moft of them get their Livelihood
by the Sweat of their Brows, and betake themfelves to all forts of Em-
ployments, efpecially to tilling the Earth, and cultivating the Vine. The
Lay -Brothers are of the coarfeft Make, and are like our Freres Donnez, :
I don't know what they call them among the Greeks ; they are honeft
Countrymen, that after the death of their Wives give all they have to
fome Convent, where they fpend the reft of their days in labouring the
Earth. All thefe Monks live upon nothing but fbme forts of Fifh, Pulfe,
Olives, dry'd Figs: their Refectory is not in the leaft better furniih'd
than that of U Trappe, except as to Wine ; and the very worft Wine in
Greece is incomparably better than the beft Perche Cyder. Strangers eat
Meat in the Houfes of the Caloyers, but then they mult bring it with
them They are generally well provided with green Olives faked, which
are extremely agreeable : black Olives are alfo common among them, and
of a better Tafte ; they are put with Layers of Salt in great Pitchers,
where they will keep without Water for above a year : I have try'd to
prelerve them in Provence the fame way, but it would not do.

IN

The Vrefent State of the Greek Church. 83

IN the Greek Monafteries their Commons are all equal ; the Superior Letter III.
is not better fed than the meaneft Monk ; and the fame Rule is obferv'd ^-/~v_^~»
in all the other NecefTaries of Life. When the Superior leaves his Of- nt^y^tu
fice, he is flript only of his Authority : when he is in Office, he never
dares abufe it, efpecially with relation to the Punifhments and Penances
due to the Faults of his Monks ; the leaft Severity would ibmetimes put
them upon taking the Turbant inftead of the Cap of Monte Santo. AIL
Penances therefore are voluntary in their Cloiflers • they are not at all
acquainted with Submiilion and Humility : thofe Virtues are practis'd
only by their Cooks, who proftrate themfelves at the door of the Re-
fectory, to receive the Benediction of the Monks as they come out.

A S there are three States of Perfection in the Monaftick Life among
the Greeks, the Monks are accordingly diftinguifh'd by three forts of Ha-
bits : the ' Novices wear only ' a plain Tunick of the very coarfeft of* A.?%te.Uu
Cloths ; the ProfefTed have a ! larger and neater : they call the moreFer- ' ~£mf $
vent the * Monks of the little Habit, to diftinguifh them from thofe who ' MtuJJlm,
lead an indifferent fort of Life like the reft : laftly, the 5 Cowl and S^^
' Scapulary are beftow'd upon the moft 7 Perfect, whom they do not fcru-* mm^'j^/.
pie to compare to Angels. They are bury'd in thofe Ornaments, for in , ***? x""'
their life-time they wear them only for feven days. » Uiyt^ '

I N fome parts of Greece the Caloyers are divided into Anchorets and lW/'
Afceticks or Hermits : The Anchorets live three or four together in a
Houfe own'd by the Convent, of which they hire it for their Lives.
There they have their Chappel, and after Prayers employ themfelves in
cultivating Pulfe, Vines, Olive, Fig, and other Trees, which furnifh them
with Fruits in their feafon. Thefe Monks differ from the conventual
only in their converfing lefs with the World, and being in fmalier numbers
in their Retreat.

THE Life of the Afceticks or Hermits is the ftricteft of all ; they arc
reclufe Caloyers, and voluntarily retire into the moft frightful Rocks :
they eat but once a day, except upon Feftivals ; they fcarce take enough
to fatisfy the Calls of Nature : the Pacomujfes and Macairiuffes never
lived more aufterely. Without a very particular Vocation, I hardly be-
lieye it is lawful for Men to put their Life to fuch a Teft ; it is certainb/
the Will of God that we fhould preferve it as much as in us lies, whereas

M 2 thefe

H

A Voyage into the Levant.

thefe Men deflroy themfelves without any necefTky ; on the other hand,

thefe great Auflerities, join'd to a perpetual Solitude, very often turn

their Brains. Mofl Afceticks are apt to fall into piteous Fancies, that

have nothing at all to do with the true Knowledge of our Duty ; fb that

by little and little their Heads grow fo full of Vifions, that they are

little better than diftra&ed. Thefe poor Hermits are nor mendicant .

the Monks from time to time bring them a little Bifcuit, which with a

few wild Herbs is all their Support.

• K*\<vei<t, THE Greek Nuns ' do by no means live fb auflerely as the Hermits ;

K*o °« 'k*"h- tneY are m°ftty Magdalen s reform'd, that towards the Decline of their

y&ia, pod ^pc make a Vow to be more obfervant of fome Virtues that they have

old Woman. ° J

ttfjryeltu, very much neglected in their Youth : they then retire into Monafleries,
KaAoyepv tjjere t0 ieacj a Life left fcandalous, under the Infpe&ion of a kind of
am?*I. ' Abbefs, who is not over-fevere.

" W^71**- A S to the Greek Monks, they apply themfelves to Contemplation left

than the Afceticks : thefe Monks rife conflantly an hour and a half after

Midnight to pray together. The Night between Saturday and Sunday

Tbteiwi*? they rife exadly atone : the Nights of the Eves of the Afcenfion, Pen-

™ $&3i tecofl, St.Jobn Baptift, St. Peter and St. Paul, the Transfiguration of our

VUKTJX.0V) *"* * «/ * * ' «-?

offiitof m»- Saviour, the Feafl of the Virgin, are wholly fpent in Prayers. Ulually

tl OKaixmv after tne midnight Office, the Monks retire to their Cells, and return to

ii OKimamv church about five to fay Matins, 5 Laudes, and Prime, which is begun at

prayers that Sun-rife : after this, each Man goes to his work ; thofe that flay in the

"igh"-' Convent go again to Church to fay Tierce and Sixte, and to aflifl at Maft.

1 "Of%«. From Mais they go directly to dinner in the Refectory, where they have

Reading in the fame manner as in our Communities : after Dinner, they

return to work : at four they fing Vefpers, fup at fix ; after Supper they

fay Complines, and at eight go to bed.

BESIDES the Fafts of the Church, the Caloyers have three parti-
cular ones : the firfl is inflituted in honour of St. Demetrius ; this Fall be-
gins the firfl: of October, and ends not till the twenty fixth of the fame
•EejTMrafM- Month, which is the 4 Feafl of St. Demetrius martyr'd at Tbeffalonica :
^nZrli"^ tne iecond Fafl is of but fourteen days, namely, from the firfl of Sep-
j h t-4«?< y tember to the Feafl of the ' Invention of the Crofs : the lafl is the Fafl
tu7Tc™™« of St. Michael ; it begins the firfl of November, and ends the eighth,
**= «*"*=• * which

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. 8 £

which among the Greeks is the Feaft of ' St. Michael, St. Gabriel, and all Letter III.
the Hoft of Heaven. There are Caloyers that obferve the Fafts of ^X^.
St. Jthanafius and St. Nicholas Bifhop of Myra ; the firft begins the feventh a*' *Sj^'Af-
of January, and ends the eighteenth of the fame Month ; in fhort, Qf&fo, Ent-
ail Chriftians the Greeks are the greateft Fafters next to the Armenians. ££&£ ^
EVEN the Laymen keep four Lents; the * firft lafts two Months? \ Mi^ai ^
and ends at Eajler, for which reafon they call it the great Lent, or the M^, '***&'
Ealier-Lent : in the firft: ' Week of this Lent, it is lawful to eat Cheefe, ' T»ety» *) m-
Milk Fifh, and Eggs; all which they are forbidden during the following ntf, which
Weeks : they feed wholly upon Shell-fifh, and fuch other as they believe cheefe, *
to be without Blood, as are the Polypus and the Cuttle-fifh 5 they alfo eat
the Eggs of certain Fifh faked, and efpecially thofe of the ' Mullet and V'flrf -ma^
t Sturgeon : the firft are prepared upon the Coafts " of Ephefus and 7 Mile- targo, or p0-
tus, and the others on thofe of the Black Sea. The Shell-fiih molt eaten ^^^
in Greece, are the red s Naker, the 9 common Oyfters, which are perfectly ' xa£ta.tl>
delicious, and infinitely better than the red ,? Oyfters, which do not agree s ^j1
with all Stomachs. The Greeks alfo eat a Fifh calPd " Goats-Eyes, Mufcles, ' Paiatia.
Perewinkles, and Sea- Hedgehogs. The Caloyers in Lent live almoft upon ' uirvf Met.
nothing but Roots: the Laymen, be fides the Fifh aforemention'd, ufe *°x2jk-d-
Pulfe and Honey, and drink Wine ; that Liquor was forbid them, as well f-
as Oil, as St. John Chryfofiom obferves. They eat Fifh on Palm-Sunday, AiS*^
and the 2<;th of March, the Day of the " Annunciation, provided that Homil- *■ «

^ ,, 1 tt 1 ur . Gen.&Homil.

Day does not fall in the Holy Week. <*. ad popu].

ON Maundy-Thurfday the more zealous among the Bifhops wafh the ,^'°d^
Feet of twelve Papas : this Ceremony was formerly accompany'd with a a/^ rSs
little Exhortation, but now they excufe themfelves from that trouble. ^^J'/^
On Good- Friday, to celebrate the Memory of the Holy Sepulchre, two "h&t»*lis'
Papas in the night carry upon their moulders in procefllon the Reprefen-
tation of a Tomb, wherein Jefus Chrift crucify'd is painted on a board : on
Eafier-day that Tomb is carry'd out of the Church, and the Prieft begins
to fing, Jefus Chrifi is rifen from the Dead ; he has overcome Death, and
given Life to thofe that were in the Grave. This Reprefentation of the
Holy Sepulchre is carry'd back again into the Church, where it is iu-
cenfed, the Office is continu'd, the Pneft and Congregation every mo-
ment repeat, .Jefus Christ is rtfen from the Dead.. Then the Perfon that Xeigii*risii.\

officiates

86 ^Voyage into the Levant

officiates makes three Signs of the Crofs, and kiffes the Gofpel and the
Image of Jefus Chrift : after this, he turns the other fide of the board,
where Chrift is reprefented arifing from the Sepulchre ; the Pried kifTes
k, reiterating, Chrift is rifen from the Dead : and the Congregation does
the fame, embracing and reconciling themfelves one to another ; they
even fire off Piftols feveral times, which often finges the Beard and Hair
of the Papas. At this frefh noife every body cries out, Christ is rifen from
the Dead. This fpiritual Rejoicing continues not only the whole Eafter-
Week, but alio till Pentecoft. In the ftreets, inftcad of the ordinary Form
noM/'x&iw. of Salutation, which is, 7 'wifh you Length of Tears ; they only fay, Jefus

Chrift is rifen from the Dead.
Th Siwfltt- THE fecond Lent is that of Chrifimas, and lafts forty Days ; in this
^IZllt^ot tney eat Fifh? except on Wednefdays and Fridays ; fome abftain alfo on

CSJST Mo»d*ys-

auarantam. THE third Lent bears the Name of the Apoftle6 St. Peter and St. Paul :

^w^bot? ic begins the firft Week of Pentecoft, and ends on St. Peter's Day ; thus

n v\$Ti* ^ ic is ^on§er or morter> according as Eafter falls higher or lower in the

Year. During this Lent, it is lawful to eat Fifh, but nothing made of

Milk. They are even forbid to eat Flefli, if the Feaft of the ApofUes

happens to be a Faft-Day.

• TeaM^M^ 'THE lafl Lent begins the firft of Augufi, and ends at the Feaft of
™ ?50£,"£" the AfTumption ; on which account it is call'd the Lent ef the Holy Vir-
raa.{^'i/>s. gjn, Theuie of Fifh is forbidden in this Lent, unlefson thefixth of the

* MtTTttulftpo- iame Month, which is the Day of our Saviour's Transfiguration \ All
™f .™ the other days they are confined to Shell-fifli and Pulle. During all

thele Lents, the Monks live upon nothing but Pulle and dry'd Fruits, and

drink Water.

sncfpxflf $ THE reft of the Year the Greeks faft every Wednefday and Friday :

on Wednefday, fay they, becaufe on that day Judas took Mony of the

Jens to betray our Lord ; on Friday, becaufe on a Friday he was crucify'd.

If Chrif mas-Day falls upon a Wednefday or Friday, the Laymen eat

Flefh, and the Monks are dilpens'd from fafting. The Greeks are very

much fcandaliz'd at our fafting on Saturdays iu the Latin Church, upon

XeKVKl'orot account of a PafTage mifunderftood in St. Ignatius the Martyr ; who fays^

£plft. vfad' that, they who faft on Saturdays, do crucify the Lord anew.

Plulippcufes. T H F

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. 87

THE Laymen eat Meat from Chrijlmas to the fourth of January : Letter III.
the fifth of January, which is the Eve of the Epiphany, they faft, be- TbuTZfii!*1
caufe they fancy Chrifl was baptiz'd the fixth of that Month ; it is for Jjjjj n<t^'
this reafon that the Bifhops, or their chief Vicars, do on that day about
Evening make ' Holy Water for all the enfuing Year; they drink of it, ' W*p^W
and fprinkle their Houfes with it : if they happen not to make enough, ,a< a?/*^.
when that is out, they make * more. Every Man carries a ' Pot-full of it ^°-J^t
to his own Houfe ; but they never put Salt into it, and find great fault • a^j-^s-
with our doing fo : the Papas go and fprinkle the Houfes of every private fyjt"_°pyc~t%
Man with their Holy Water. The Day of the Epiphany they alio make
4 Holy Water in the Morning at Mais ; it ferves to give to fucb Peni- * "p a>/*>>(*
tents to drink, as are excluded from the Communion, to purify Churches the Epiphany
that have been profaned, and to exorcife Demoniacks. On that day they ' eyca *ara'
blefs the Springs, the Wells, and even the Sea : this Benediction is very
fblemn, and brings in Grift to the Clergy, who to ftrike the Imaginations
of the People, fling into all thofe Waters little wooden CrofTes before
they fay Mafs. We faw it done at Mycone, by a Bifhop delegated from him
of the Ifland of linos ; he march'd in proceflion in his Pontifical Habits,
with his great • Veil upon his head, and his Paftoral ' Staff in his hand. ' h**ri k*-

T H E Greeks faft again on the fourteenth of December •, in honour of faw^tLr,
the Invention of the Crofs ; they alfo faft the Eve of St. Job/t the Baptift: ° ^aewfcuw.
and during thefe Fafts they abftain from Fifh, and eat hardly any thing
but Pulle ; as they do alfb the Monday in Whitfun-Week : that Day is
fet apart for putting up their joint Prayers to the Lord to fend his Holy
Ghoft upon the Faithful, which they do in the Evening. But they make
themfelves amends for this laft Faft the following Wednefday and Friday,
for then they return to eating of Flefh, for joy of the Defcent of the
Holy Ghoft. In a word, the Devotion of the Greeks confifts hardly in
any thing more than a regular Obfervation of their appointed Fafts.

I CONFESS, my Lord, I mould have made a very fbrry Greek, efpe-
cially if Travellers had not a difpenfation from the Law of Failing, which
the Natives here certainly have not ; Children, Old Men, Women with
child, fick Perfbns, are not excus'd : they are much left anxious about
the Practice of the Chriftian Virtues; It is true, this is lefs their fault
than that of their Teachers ; who though much more numerous than in

any

A Voyage into the Levant.

any other Chriftian ^Country, do not perform the Duties of their Mi-
nifhy : you fee in Greece ten or twelve Monks or Papas to one Layman.

THIS Multitude of the Clergy is certainly the occafion of the vaft
number of Chappels that are in Greece ; new ones are daily built, though
K«J>'< ; <"■ ,K«- permilTion muft firft be purchas'd of the Cadi, e'er it can be done : nay,
it is forbidden to rebuild fuch as are fallen or burnt, till after having paid
the Dues of that Officer. Each Papas thinks he has as much a right to
poiTefs one Chappel, as he has to marry one Wife. Few of thole Priefts
care to celebrate in the Church of another, and this perhaps is the only
thing in which they are fcrupulous : iuch Celebration is in their opinion
a kind of fpiritual Adultery. It is poilible too, this Multiplicity of
Chappels may be a Relick of the antient Cuftom that prevail'd in Greece,
of raifing little Temples to their falfe Gods. It is certain, the Greeks re-
tain many of the Pagan Ceremonies, and among others that of dancing
their Saints to theMufick of Fifes and Tymbals; which is pra&is'd alio
..even in Provence on great Holidays.

A S the antient Greeks found the whole Earth in Gods and Goddelfes,
:Lib. ?. deCi- as St. Aufiin obferves, they were obliged in honour to build them Tem-
ples in their own Country : thofe Temples were fmall, but magnificent,
adorn'd with Columns, Architraves, Pediments, whole Workmanlhip was
far more valuable than the Marble they were built of. This Marble grew
So beautiful under the hands of luch Mailers as Phidias, Scopas, Praxi-
tiles, that it became the Object of the Adoration of Mankind : dazzled
by the Majefty of their Gods of Stone or Brals, their Eyes were fbme-
times too weak to bear the Luftre of their fight. Whole Cities have
been known to be fo foolilhly prepoiTefs'd, as to imagine they law altera-
tions in the Countenances of their Idols : Stories of this nature are told
Hift.Nat. lib. by Pliny, of the Statues of Diana and Hecate, one of which was at Scio,
:- "^ 5" and the other at Ephefm ; the Situation of feveral of thefe Temples are
yet difcoverable by bits of Pillars ftrew'd about the fields. The Greeks
have been very happy, that Churches are fubftituted in the place of thole
antient Edifices.

THOSE Churches now are very indifferently built, and very poor;

but Chrift is adored in them, inftead of the falfe Deities, which were ib

long the Gods of their Forefathers. Except 67. Sophia at Conjlantinople,

< there

The Vrefent State of the Greek Church. 89

there have been very few great Churches among them, not even when their Letter III.

Empire was in the heighth of its Glory. Some old Churches that ftill re- '^~^r^~'

main, have two Naves, both cover'd in with fharp-rais'd vaulted Roofs ; and

the Steeple, which might as well be left out of the Building for any Bells

it is troubled with, ftands between the two Roofs in the Front : all thefe

Structures are generally upon the fame Plan, moft of them in the fhape

of a Greek, that is, a fquare Crofs. The Greeks have preferv'd the an-

tient Ufe of Domes, which they do not execute much amifs : the Choir

of the Churches always faces the Eaft ; and when they pray, they turn to

that fide. Their ufual Prayers, after reiterated Signs of the Crofs, confifl

in the frequent Repetition of thefe words, Lord have mercy upon us ! Chrift J^4 «*«w»

b.tve mercy upon us ! mis^ \hinmv

THEY are too obfervant of the Laws of Nature in the Greek Church, wk'v.*"
not to forbid the Women entrance into their Churches at certain times :
they are obliged to remain at the Door ; and as if their Breath was tainted,
they are not fufFer'd to communicate in that condition, nor to kifs any
Image. They are not fo fcrupulous in thole Monafleries where they keep
Women to warn the Monks Linen. The Images in their Churches are
all flat, and you never fee any Sculpture there, except it be fome flight
Incifion. In greater Churches, they have ' Sextons, ' Door-keepers, and ' 2«w?w«?.
' Church-wardens : formerly there was a 4 Pulpit fet apart for the Preacher, * Tvfu&{-f
but they are very rarely to be met with now, Preaching being almofl ti K«*/WX'*V '
wholly difufed among them ; and if a Papas does undertake to meddle JJ^ Sa «.
with it, he acquits himfelf moft wretchedly, and does it only for the £*»'> *)*%
fake of the two Crowns that are allow'd for the Sermon, which is not
worth the Mony. It is a fhame to hear thofe Priefls fpend half an
hour in diflilling as it were, about twenty words fadly mifmatched,
which for the generality the Curate underftands as little as the Congre-
gation.

THE Monafleries are built in a uniform manner; the Church always
ftands in the middle of the Court, fb that the Cells lie round about it.
Thefe People have not that Variety in their Tafle that we have ; a De-
fect not at all to be prais'd, fince Variety is of great ufe to the perfecting
of Arts. It is vifible by the old Belfries of the Monafleries, that the
Greeks never had any great Bells ; and fince the Turks have forbidden
Vol. I. N them

po ^Voyage into the Levant.

them the ufe of all, they hang with Ropes to the Boughs of Trees, Plates
of Iron, like thofe Rims which are fix'd round Cart-Wheels, crooked,
about half an inch thick, and three or four broad, with a few holes drill'd
through them : they chime upon thefe Plates with little Iron Hammers,
to call the Monks to Church. They have another ibrt of Chime, which
they endeavour to tune to the fame Key with thofe Iron Plates: they
' To SiVar- hold in one hand a wooden ' Lath, about four or five inches broad,
'tkIw. ' which they ftrike with a wooden Hammer ; you may imagine what a Con-
tort it makes. That which they have at their Feafts on High Days, is but
little more tolerable ; they jingle a Copper Bowl, by ftriking upon it
with the Haft of a Knife, while the Monks fing through the Nofe like
our Capuchins.

AS to the Exterior of Religion, it mull: be own'd to be flill pretty

regular among the Greeks : their Ceremonies are fine, and that's all ; never

ask them for an Account of their Faith, for they are miferably tutor'd.

Neither are we to expect to find among them thole regular Churches of

old, which their Hiftorians delcribe, and which were divided into three

parts; to wit, the Veftibulum or Fore-Nave, the Nave, and the Sanctua-

' n*'$^5 £ ry : there remain no more now, than thefe two laft parts. The * Vefti-

bulum was the firft part you. met with at entring the Church : it was

f b*»W«»' properly a By-place, let apart for the ' Baptiftery, for thole that were

4k*7»x*kV«> condemn' d to do Penance, for 4 Catechumens, and for5 Energumenes;

be inflrueicd : and feparated from the reft of the Church by a Wall or Partition, about

fefn?*0' " the heighth of a Man. Two of thefe Veftibulums were contriv'd at the

' trtfyifj/itsi Entrance of the Church of St. Sophia at Confiantinople.

EnrJusoafi. FROM this Fore-Nave, you pafs'd into the * Nave by three Doors,

' N**'" , „ the chief of which was call'd the 7 Gate-Royal : the Nave is (till the

x) z*nkrM. greateft Divifion of the Greek Churches. They fit, or rather ftand, in

Chairs fix'd up againft the Wall, in fuch manner that the People leem to

• ©o>'w. be upon their legs. The 8 Patriarch's Seat is the highefl: of all, in the

Patriarchal Churches ; thole of the other Metropolitans are lower : the

» KvitxoyAov. Readers, Chanters, and meaner Clerks fit oppofite ; and the 9 Desk upon

which the Scripture is read, is placed there alio. The Nave is feparated

'•'E/mkoju'- from the Sanctuary by a Partition'0 all gilt and painted, rais'd from the

Ground to the very Cieling : this Partition has three Doors ; the middle-

moft

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-7<r

The Prefent State of the Greek Church. 9 r

moft is call'd the ' Holy Door, which is never open'd but during fo- Letter III.
Jemn Offices, and at Mafs when the Deacon goes out to read the Gofpel ; . r^TJ^
or when the Prieft carries in the Elements to confecrate them ; or laftly,
when he takes his Seat there, to give the Communion.

THE ' Sanctuary is the higheft-rais'd part of the whole Church, and ',^'f'«";
terminates in a ' Half-Arch, Here they celebrate the Holy Myfteries . hfw bW *j
for which reafbn none are admitted into it, befides the Minifters of the"""**'""1''
Lord, the Patriarch, the Archbifhops, the Bifhops, the Priefts, and the Kife.
Deacons ; the Greek Emperors themfelves had no place in it, but fate in
the Nave. There are three Altars rais'd in the Sanctuary: the 4 Holy * '&*> '"&>
Table ftands in the middle, and upon this they fet the Crofs and the Book r^m^.
of the Gofpels. This Altar was formerly cover'd by a fort of s Canopy . s KiCawr.
the * Altar on the left hand as you go into the San&uary is not fo large "n^W.
as the Holy Table ; here they lay the Bread that is to be 7 confecrated. ' ~r&-m&
The third Altar is on the right, and made ufe of to hold the facred Vef- $ ^muvnir-
fels, the Books, and the Sacerdotal Habits : the Deacons and Sub-deacons
fland near this Altar, which is of the lame fize and form as that on which
they put the Bread that is defign'd for Confecration.

THE Prieft that is to fay Mafs, begins with making three * Signs of 's-w^V*^
the Crofs, in honour of the Holy Trinity ; firft upon his Forehead, then rTe*""""*e"*
on his right Shoulder, and afterwards on his left : and concludes with a
profound Inclination of Body at each Sign of the Crofs.

H E firft puts on a kind of 9 Albe, of brocaded Silk, or fbme other • st^j*
Stuff tolerably rich ; for the Greeks fpare no Coft to get fumptuous B,Zfi'Jn^he
Ornaments. Secondly, he puts on a " Stole : Thirdly, a broad " Girdle, jj*» alfi ,
flat like a Ribband: Fourthly, " brocaded Cuffs : Fifthly, a piece of f»-
fquare " Brocade, about fevenor eight inches large, faften'd by one of its ^ £^71^'
corners to his Girdle on the right fide : Sixthly, a '4 Cope of Brocade open *""'•
only at top, and which the Prieft tucks up above his Arms ; to this Cope ■ ■ rJuwin
they faften with a Pin, between the Shoulders, a little fquare " piece of $ k****'***.
Brocade, three inches large, placed in form of a Lozenge. All rhefe >$ -n rmjg-
Pieces are pretty well defcribedin our Plate, except the firft fquare Piece v*™i q^ .
of Brocade, which inftead of falling down upon the right, feems there"' *f»i^">"*
to be on the left, becaufe the Figure was turn'd in taking off the De- »»aW> *a,W
fign. The poorer fort of Papas make all thefe Ornaments of Linen. *' n*-**

N 2 THE

9 2 A Voyage into the Levant.

THE Prieft being veiled, lets about the Preparation of the Bread
andWineatthe little Altar on the left hand; inftead of which, in ordi-
nary Chappels they make ufe of a Hole cut into the Wall : hence he
' n&w&' takes the Bread defign'd for the Sacrifice. This ' Bread is of Wheat le-
1 ZtswJ*. vened, and there is ftamp'd upon it with a wooden 2 Mold, before it is

put into the Oven, the following Characters, which fig-
■v- nify, Jefus Chrift is Conqueror. If there is no Bread fb
mmm4 ftamp'd, the Papas draws thofe Characters upon a common

N/xct. 1.V*

►«

Nr K ^oa^ wit^ t^ie ^oint °^ a K-niie ; then he cuts the piece of
Craft, upon which they appear, into a Square. In doing
I'AyiaAcftf. this, he muft ufe a Knife that is ihaped like a s Lance, to reprefent that
with which the Side of our Lord was pierced.

THIS Piece being put into the Balbn, he pours the Wine and Water
into the Chalice : he afterwards lifts up a piece of the Craft of the lame
Loaf, which he cuts into a Triangle of about an inch long, and much
fmaller than the great Piece which contains the Letters. He then offers
the Sacrifice to the Lord, in the Name of the Virgin.

HE takes, with the Point of his. Knife, a Piece of Cruft, as big as
a Lentil, for St. John the Baptift, whofe Name he pronounces; doing in
like manner at lifting up each of the following Parcels : that is to fay,
pronouncing the feveral Names at each Parcel.

ANOTHER Parcel for the Prophets Mofes, Aaron, Eli as, Eli/hah,
David.

THE fame for St. Peter, St. Paul, and the reft of the Apoftles.
FOR the Holy Fathers and Doctors, St. Bajil, St. Gregory, St. John
Chryfofiom, St. Athanafius, St. Cyril, St. Nicholas Bifhop of Myra.

FOR the firft Martyrs, St. Stephen, St. George, St. Demetrius, St. The-
odore.

FOR the Hermits, St. Anthony, St. Euthymius, St. Saba, St. Onuphrius,
St. Arfenius, St. Athanafius of Mount Athos.

FOR St. Cofmus, St. Damian, St. Pantaleon, St. Hermolaus.
FOR St. Joachim, St. Anne, and for the Saint in whofe honour they
perform the Mafs.

FOR the Perfon that caufes the Mafs to be faid.
FOR the Patriarchs, and for the Chriftian Princes.

HE

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. 03

H E lifts up as many Parcels of the fame Cruft, as he recommends Letter III*
Perfbns to God. v-#v%-»

H E does the like, in praying for the Dead.

LASTLY, He puts a Crofs ' of Silver or Tin over the * Bafon, in ''o^dam.
which are all the Portions of Bread that are to be confecrated : this Crofs A(°WfA>,°f
hinders the' Veil with which he covers it, fromfwagging down upon thofe > -ra a/w^-.
Portions. After having fet theBalbn at the foot of the Chalice wherein M(irA'
are the Wine and Water, he leaves them on that little Altar, and goes to
the great one to begin Mafs ; but he returns to take the Bafon and Chalice
at the time of the Confecration : then he carries them to the great Altar,
palling through the little Door on the left hand, and re-entring into the
Sanctuary by the middle Door. Through inexcufable Ignorance, the
Greeks adore the Bread and Wine in this PalTage, though they are not yet
confecrated ; whereas at the time of their Confecration, they extinguifh
the Candles, and think no more of that Holy Myftery. This may per.
haps be a Remnant of the Herefy broach'd by Mark of Ephefas, that the
Confecration was done by the Prayers of the Prieft, and not- by virtue
of the Sacramental Words. Be this as it will, it is certain thefe poor
Wretches, for want of being better taught, fhew much more Devotion
and Refpedt before, than after the Confecration. The Prieft having fet
the Chalice and Bafon upon the great Altar, breaks the biggeft piece of A?nyj,&ti<tr
Cruft crofs-wife, and puts the four parts into the Chalice, with all the
Parcels ; he pours a little hot Water, repeating the Sacramental Words : ©eft*3» £
if there are no Communicants, the Papas alone confumes all that is in
the Bafon and Chalice: if there are Communicants, he gives them each .. , ,„
a Spoonful : Come mar, fays the Prieft, ftanding at the Door of the Sane- &*i *r'men $
tuary, come near , with the Fear of God, with Faith, and with Charity. tnAtliT^'

THOSE that are to communicate, prepare themfelves by re-iterated 'h 'eu^/j/*.-.
Signs of the4 Crofs, accompany'd with profound Inclinations of the Bo- \ ^^"V*.
dy. s Adoration and ' Penance differ among the Greeks in this ; in Ado- « n(\a
ration they make Inclination only with half their Body, mixed by fe-
veral Signs of the Crofs ; whereas in Penance, befides the Inclinations
of Body and Signs of the Crofs, they fall down upon their knees, and
kifs the Earth. In order to make the Sign of the Crofs regularly, they
join together the three firft Fingers_of the Right Hand, to figuify that

there

l&vcia.

94. ^Voyage into the Levant.

there is but one God in three Perfons. They carry this Hand to the
Forehead, afterwards to the right Shoulder, and then to the left, repeat-
*A}to( l &««, ing theie words ; Holy God, Holy and Mighty God ; Holy and Immortal God,
"AyioiJ&t'vA- have mercy upon us !

JJS^JSb THE Papas puts the Ritual upon the Head of the Communicant,

-p^yfMM^ and lays the Prayers for the Forsivenefs of Sins ; while the Communi-

cant fays foftly to himfelf, / believe, 0 Lord, and confefs that thou art truly

the Son of the living God, and thou camejl into the World for the Salvation

of Sinners, of which I am the greatefi. The Papas giving him in a Spoon

■ A«C/f, a*- > the conlecrated Bread and Wine, pronounces thefe words ; Thou, calling

jtS,. him by his Chriflian Name, Servant of God, receive the precious and mofi

holy Body and Blood of our Lord Jefus Chrifl, for the Remiffion of thy Sins,

and for Eternal Life.

THE antient way of Communion among the Greeks, was a little dif-
ferent from what it is now : the Penitent being come to the Door of the
San&uary, proftrated himfelf, and worlhip'd God, with his Face to the Eaft:
then turning to the Well, he addrefs'd thele words to the Congregation ;
Let us forgive one another, my Brethren : we have finned in our Actions, and
in our Words. The Congregation anfwer'd, God will forgive us, my Bre-
thren. He repeated the lame Ceremony towards the South and North.
Then advancing towards the Priell, he ufed this beautiful Form of
Speech ; 0 Lord, I will not give thee the Kjfs of Judas ; but I will confefs
thy Faith, after the example of the good Thief : Remember thy Servant, 0
Lord, when thou comefi into thy Kjngdom. The Priell gave him the
Communion, faying, The Servant of God receives the Communion, in the
Name of the Father, of the Son, and of the Holy Ghojl, for the Remijjion of
his Sins. So be it.

THE Holy Sacrament is not carry'd with due Refpect to the Houles

• M*f>*f,77, of the Sick ; the Conlecrated Elements are in a a wooden Box, that is kept

fm. ?7tffl" in a Linen Bag hung up in the Sanctuary of the great Churches, where

there is a Lamp burning night and day : this Bag is put behind the door in

ordinary Churches ; the Priell takes it under his Arm, and goes his way

to the fick Perlbn by himfelf.

W H AT remains of the Loaf, off of which the Priell has cut the
Pieces to be confecrated, is divided into little Bits, and dillributed to the

Faithful

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. og

Faithful by the name of Holy Bread. The Man or Woman that kneads Letter III.
the Bread defign'd for Confecration, muft be pure ; that is to fay, the ^/£V
Man muft not have known his Wife, nor the Woman her Husband, the ^,l &&'
Eve of the Day on which the Bread is made. So mnch for the Mafs and
Communion of the Greeks.

AS to Confeffion, it was practis'd among them in a very edifying confession.
manner before the Decadence of their Church. The Prieft began with «*'•'*••
this wholefome Advice ; The Angel of the Lord, is at ■your elbow, to hear from
your own mouth the Confeffion of your Sins : take good heed how you conceal the
leafl Particular, either out of fhame, or any other motive. After Declara-
tion of his Sins, he again exhorted him to hide nothing, to perform Acts
of Contrition, enjoin'd him Penance, and gave him Ablblution in thefe
terms : By the Power which Jefus Chrifi vefted in his Apojlles, when he faid
to them, Whatever ye fhall bind upon Earth, fhallbe bound in Heaven ; by that
Power which the Apojlles communicated to the Bifhops, and which I received of
him that gave me the Prieflhood, thou art abfolved from thy Sins by the Far-
ther, the Son, and the Holy Ghofi : So be it. Thou fbalt receive among the-
Jujl the Inheritance which is due to thy Works.

AT prefent thofe wretched Papas that do the Function of ' Confef- nX^Wc "'
fors, know not fb much as the Form of Ablblution : If a Penitent ac-
cufes himlelf of having ftolen, they firft ask him whether from a Native
or a Prank ; if he replies, from a Frank, there's no Sin in that, quoth the r
Papas, provided we mare the Spoil. Confeffion among the modern
Greeks is in effect no more than the Exaction of the Tax, which the
Priefts have arbitrarily impos'd upon each Sin, with an eye to the Sub-
ftance of the Perfons that confefs themfelves guilty. The Monks of • "Ea*«„, £~
Monte Santo roam all over Greece, and Mufcovy too, during Advent and Ztld Tepeikn- -
Lent, to fell their * Oil : and thofe Monks vifit Peoples Houfes, to hear dos, moibos

' ■ * r ' utebantur. Vid.

Confeftions (for the Curates feldom meddle with that Office) and toViiams. pa-
give Extreme Unction to Perfons in full health; they anoint the Peni- 30. &vS
tent's Backbone for each Sin that -he declares, always taking care to lofe n'4E7utych"
neither their Oil nor their Pains ; the lead Unction whatsoever cofts a ;' wt** **fi
Crown: that which is perform'd for the Sin of the Flefh, is the deareft *5*y85^!£
of all; and as this Sin is moft common, you may judge what the Tax/^/^t"
amounts to. Thofe that apply this Unction moft regularly, make ufe fed [". throw

f r •> ° J ' ma bit of the

Of true Crof),

96

A Voyage into the Levant.

'hW* nn- of facred Oil, and pronounce at each lick, the words of the 1 24th Pfalrrr
f/H< Ippu'^H- The S ft are is broken, and we are delivered.

^m^^Ta, T O continue to defcribe the Pra&ice of the other Sacraments among
& nos liber.™ fa Greeks, you will permit me, my Lord, to put you in mind, that a-
Baptism. mong them Baptifm is perform'd by Immerfion ; it is reiterated three
^k^tri'w*' timesj at eacn time plunging in the whole Body of the Child, which the
Eaptifttry. Curate holds under the Arms. At the firft Immerfion he pronounces in his

Language a Form of Words, that fignify, Such a one the Servant of God,

is baptized in the Name of the Fathe-, now, for ever, and in Secula Seculorum,

At the fecond Immerfion he fays, Such a one the Servant of God, is

baptized in the Name of the Son, 8cc. At the third, In the Name of the

• AydJb^i. H0iy Ghofi. The ' Godfather anfvvers every time, So be it. The Parents

do not ufually prefent the Child till eight days after its Birth ; on the

day of its Baptifm, they take care to warm a quantity of Water, and to

throw into it Flowers of a grateful Scent : after the Papas has blown it

and blefs'd it, pouring into it fome facred Oil, with which they anoint

the Body of the Child fo thorowly, that hardly any of the Water can

J ri smMtsi- dwell upon it, they throw into a * Hole that is under the Altar, all that

has been ufed in this Ceremony. The Greeks fb firmly believe that

fprinkling of Water on the Head of the Child among us is infiifficient for

Baptifm, that frequently they rebaptize the Latins who embrace their

Communion.

conftrma- AFTER having baptiz'd the Child, and faid fome Prayers, they give

rmv'tw n ll Confirmation : This is the Seal of the Gift of the Holy Ghofi, fays the

Xfirt"1."- Curate, applying the holy Chrifm to its Forehead, Eyes, Noflrils, Mouth,

Ears, Breaft, Hands, and Feet : they afterwards give it the Communion,

tho oftentimes it throws out half the confecrated Bread and Wine that

is put into its mouth. Seven days after Baptifm, they carry the Child

to Church, to perform the Ablution ; the Curate repeating the Prayers fet

down in the Ritual, not only wafhes the Child's Shirt, but with a new

• To s*£*v<*. Spunge, or a neat [ Linen Cloth, cleans its whole Body, and fends it away

with this Form of Words ; Thou hafi now been baptized, enlightened with

the Heavenly Light, fort iff d with the Sacrament of Confirmation, fanfiiffd

and waflSd, in the Name of the Father, of the Son, and of the Holy Ghofi.

THE

ir j

The Prefent State of the Greek Church. 97

THE Greeks more frequently confer Extreme Un&ion upon Perfons Letter III.
in Health than upon the Sick, as we juft now laid: ufually they anoint e^^v~*
only the Forehead, Cheeks, Chin, and Hands of the Sick, with common j?^10^
Oil that has never been blelTed ; afterwards with the fame Liquor they
dawb all the Rooms in the Houle, all the while repeating of Prayers, and goXvft c
draw great CrolTes upon the Walls and Doors, while they fing the 90th fc^o-

Plalm. rioAhiffirai,

THEY do not give Priefthood' to Deacons upon account of'Ho- ,,„T
linels of Life or Proofs of Learning ; they rely intirely upon the publick
Voice, which is not always lb fure a Recommendation, as an exacl: Search
into the Life and Manners, and a due Examination of the Doctrines of
the Perfbns that offer themfelves. They never now confult the antient
Canons about the requifite Age, or about the Interval that mould be kept
between the feveral Orders ; the Bilhop confers them all in courfe, in three
or four days : in a word, any Deacon may be admitted Prieft, tho but fifteen
Years old, provided he have Mony, and no avow'd Enemy. The Bilhop
puts the queftion to the Congregation aloud in the Church, whether they
think the Deacon there prefent to be worthy of the Priefthood : if all
cry, worthy, which they generally do, his Confecration prefently fol- *A§wf*Ag«.
lows: if on the contrary but one oppofes it, he is incapacitated for that 'AvJZw.
bout ; he muft try to appeafe his Enemy either by Mony or Submiflion.
He is generally allow' d a fecond or a third Prefentation ; yet fome have
been known to ruin themfelves in Expences, and never arrive at it. The
Greeks are very revengeful, and a Family-Quarrel cannot always be made
up among them with Mony ; they are not apt to pardon even Relations.

THE Ceremonies of Marriage amus'd us agreeably one day at Mycone ; Marriage.
we accompany'd the Couple to Church with their Godfather and Godmo- <*fM<
ther, they are even permitted to chuie three or four ; and this is done
chiefly when the Bride is the eldeft Daughter of the Family. I have not
been able to learn for what realbn ihe has the advantage above the reft of
the Family : for a Man that has ten thoufand Crowns, for example, gives
five thoufand to his eldeft Daughter ; and though there be a dozen other
Children, they have no more than ihares of the other half.

AFTER the Papas had receiv'd the Company at the Gate of the
Church, he ask'd the Confent of the Parties, and put upon each of their
Vol. I. O heads

9 8 ^f Voyage into the Levant.

ib zrw>- heads a Garland of Vine-Branches, adorn'd with Ribbands and Laces :

& he afterwards took two Rings that were on the Altar, and put them on

their Fingers ; to wit, the Gold Ring on the Bridegroom's, and the Silver

on the Bride's; laying, Such a one the Servant of God, efpoufeth fuch

a one m the Name of the Father, of the Son, and of the Holy Ghoft, now

and always, and for evermore. So be it. He changed the Rings from the
Finger of one to that of the other above thirty times ; putting the Bride's

upon the Finger of the Bridegroom, he laid, Such a one the Servant of

God, efpoufes, &c. Then he again fell to changing the Rings feveral
times, and left the Gold Ring with the Bridegroom, and the Silver with
the Bride. Thus far we had nothing to grumble at ; but we thought it
very ftrange, that the Godfather and Godmother mould fpend as much
time as the Papas had done, in the fame fport : you may guefs what a
fine tedious piece of work 'tis, when there are four Godfathers and as
many Godmothers. The two that were concern'd in this Wedding
rais'd the Garlands three or four inches above the heads of the Bride and
Bridegroom, and with them went three times in a round, while the Com-
pany, Relations, Friends, Neighbours, very civilly gave them Kicks and
Cuffs, according to I know not what ridiculous Cuftom which they have
in that Country ; there was no body but we that (pared them, and they
imputed our fb doing to our want of Good-Breeding. After this Dance,
the Papas cut little pieces of Bread, which he put into a Porrenger with
lome Wine ; he eat of it firit himfelf, and then gave a Spoonful to the
Husband, and another to the Wife : all the Company tailed of it too ;
and we fhould have been counted very rude, had we refus'd it. Thus
ended the Efpoufals : the Prieft did not fay Mats, becaufe the Ceremony
was done in the Evening. The fame day their Relations, Friends, and
Neighbours fent them in Sheep, Calves, Fowls, and Wine ; they lived
merrily for two months : and fo they do after Burials, which among the
Greeks are the greateft times of Jolhtry. Thefe Burials are perform'd in
mod doleful fort ; we were furpriz'd at one in the Ifland of Milo : the
bufinefs pafs'd as follows.

THE Wife of one of the principal Men in the City, over againft
whofe Houfe we lodg'd, expired two days after our Arrival. Scarce had
/he given up the Ghoft, before we heard extravagant Cries, which made

us

The Prefent State of the Greek Church. pp

us inquire what was the matter I they told us, that according to the an- Letter III.
tient Greek Cuftom the publick ' Weepers were doing their Duty over the ,v-y^^>^
Body of the Deceas'd. Thefe Women really earn their Mony hard, and ?pu «; m^-
Horace had good reafon to fay, that thele Folks give themfelves more /aMm!"'^'
plague and uneafmefs, than thole that mourn naturally. Thefe hireling w?nluHereslIa'd.'
Gnevers lhriek and beat their Breads mod luftily, while fbme others of 'amemandum
their gang fing ' Elegies in praife of the dead Peribn : and their Songs are duct*, qUK
fo contriv'd, as to ferve for any Age, Sex, or Quality whatfbever. During pu^endi'mo-
this Clutter, they from time to time apoftrophiz'd the Lady newly de- y™- . Fe^tm
fund: : we thought the Scene a very odd one. Thou art happy, laid they ; "pJoram in

thou may ft now marry fitch a Man. And this Man was fbme old Friend, & (admit pro-

that cenforious People had talk'd of for the Deceas'd. We recommend^™^'
our Kjnsfolk to thee, laid one : Our Service to Gaffer fitch a one, laid t'other : mo- Hor- &
and a thoufand fuch Fooleries. After this, they fell again to their cry- , Na.nia „ -
ing, fhedding floods of Tears, interrupted by Sobs and Sighs, that feem'd carmen quod
to come from the bottom of the heart 3 they fcratch their Breafts ; they dand; gratia,
tear their Hair, they refolve not to outlive the Deceas'd. blTwil

THE March of the Funeral began by two young Peafants, that car- s™3'"" * (jr

° J jo nodali edicto

ry'd each a wooden Crofs, follow'd by a Papas in a white Cope, attended excommunka-
by fome Papas in Stoles of different colours, their Hair uncomb'd, and quiln eiTdem*
but indifferently furnifla'd with Shoes and Stockins: next to thefe went ^fu?enb"s) -

J mulicas & que-

the Body of the Lady uncover 'd, drefs'd after the Greek manner in her ru,as nugatio-
Wedding-Clothes ; the Husband follow'd the Bier, lupported by two pro Epitaphio
Perfons of good Confideration, who endeavour'd with weighty Argu- cdeb^"1™
ments to keep him from expiring : though by the way it was whifper'd, ^ifaraon m
that his Wife's Dileale was nothing but Vexation. One of her Daughters, Conc.Canhag.
a tall handlbme Girl, her Sifters, and fome She-Relations, march'd in
their turn, their Hair dilhevel'd, and leaning on the Arms of their
Friends. When their Voices fail'd them, and they knew not what to
fay next, they laid violent hands upon their Locks, which they tugg'd
heartily from one fide to t'other. As Nature cannot long conceal it lelf,
it is eafy to diltinguifh upon thefe occafions which of them adt fincerely,
and which counterfeit. If there is a fine Suit of Clothes in the Town, speaatm
it is lure to come out this day : the She-Relations and Friends are glad of "'""'>

t ipectei™

the opportunity of mewing themfelves in all their belt rigging ; whereas ip&. Ovid.

Olib. i. de Arte
2 among Amand.

m ve-
veniunt
enrur ut

ioo A Voyage into the Levant.

among us it is dual for every body to be in black: but all this does not
hinder them from groaning terribly. It mufl be own'd the Greeks, both
Men and Women, are very tender-hearted : when any body dies in the
Neighbourhood, Friends, Enemies, Relations, Neighbours, Great and
Small, think themfelves bound to fhed Tears ; and a Man would be
thought a very ftrange Fellow, that did not pretend at leaft to weep as
well as the reft.

THEY do not fay Mafs for the Dead on the day that the Perfon is
bury'd ; but the next day they caufe forty to be faid at each Parifh, at
Seven Pence per Mafs. When the Procefiion was come to the Church,
the Papas faid with a loud Voice the Office for the Dead, while a little
Clerk repeated fome of David's Pfalms at the foot of the Bier : the Of-
fice being ended, they diftributed twelve Loaves, and as many Bottles of
Wine, to fome poor People at the Church-Gate ; they gave ten Gazettes,
or Venetian Pence, to each Papas, a Crown and a half to the Bifhop that
■ 'owwfcof. accompany'd the Body : the ' Great Vicar, the ' Treafurer, the * Archi-

' K^o2§.'vift> wno are PaPas tnat P°ft& tne chief Dignities in the Church after
the Bifhop, received double what was given to that Prelate. After this
Diftribution, one of the Papas put on the Stomach of the Defunct a
piece of broken Potiherd, whereon was graved with the Point of a Knife

jefuso/Naza- a Crois, and the ufual Characters INBI. Then they took their leave

reth, King of 1-11 1 111

the jews. of the dead Perlon ; the Relations, and particularly the Husband, kifs'd

her Mouth ; this is an indifpenfable Duty, tho flie had died of the Plague :

her Friends embraced her ; her Neighbours faluted her, but they fprinkled

no Holy Water after the Interment. They waited upon the Husband

back to his Houfe : at their departure, the Weepers began their noife a-

Su^dAfmmen-d new> anc* at nignt tne Relations fent in the Husband a good Supper, and

wm coaum, came to give him comfort, by debauching with him all night.

5 i)Tgiwiis a'i- NINE days afterwards they fent the < Colyva to Church ; Co they call

mails seTa- eat Bafon fifo of fotfd wheat, garniih'd with blanch'd Almonds,

mum dicta. O > c '

inft. Rei Herb, dry'd Raifins, Pomegranates, s Sefamum, and fet round with Sweet-Bafil,
•xhe seed of or lbme other odoriferous Herbs : the middle is rais'd up like a Sugar-
'gkJ a'gccd Loaf, top'd with a Nofegay of artificial Flowers which are brought from
nitjh to the yenice ■ and round the Rims of the Bafon they lay either Susar or dry'd

Bread : and is ' J J o J

tommonUj cat Comfits, in the form of a Crofs of Malta. This is what the Greeks call

h) the People ef " ,

■ht Levant. * tne

TheVrefent State of the Greek Church. 101

the ' Offering of the Colyva, eftablifh'd among them to put the Faithful in Letter III.
mind of the Refurre&ion of the Dead, according to Cbrift's own- words ■ Y.ixvcH^
in St.John : Verily, verily, I fay unto you, except a Corn of Wheat fall into f^^"
the ground and die, it abideth alone ; but if it die, it bringeth forth much
Fruit. The Defign of men Ceremonies cannot be difcommended, and mum of the
thofe that instituted them were full of the Holy Scripture : the Comfits Nfceph'caliift.
and Fruits are added to it, only to make the boil'd Wheat lefs difagree. "tf^w^ia.
able. The Grave-digger carries the Colyva on his head, preceded by a
Perfon holding two large Candleflicks of gilt Wood, adorn'd with
Rounds of very broad Ribband, edg'd with a Lace half a foot deep :
this Grave-digger is follow'd by three Perfons, one carries two great Bot-
tles of Wine, another two Baskets of Fruit, and the third a Turky-Carpct,
which they fpread on the Tomb of the Defunct, as a Table-Cloth for the .
Colyva and Collation.

WHILE this Offering is carrying to the Church, the Papas fays the
Office for the Dead ; he then devours a good fhare of the Feafl : they
invite the People of Fafhion to partake of their Wine, and what is left,
is diftributed among the Poor. When the Offering lets out from home,
the Weepers fet up their throats again as they did at the Burial: Relations,
Friends, Neighbours, make the fame Grimaces. In recompence for all
this Sniveling, each Weeper has but five Loaves, four Pots of Wine,
Half a Cheefe, a Quarter of Mutton, and Fifteen Pence in Mony. The-
Kinsfolk are obliged by the Cuftom of the Country to weep often, over
the Tomb ; and to fhew the Excefs cf their Grief, they never fhift their.
Clothes in that time ; the Husbands neglect to be ihaved, and the Wi-
dows iuffer themfelves to be half devour'd with Vermin : in fbme Iflands
they weep inceffantly in their Houfes. Neither the Widows nor Wi-
dowers fet foot into the Church, nor frequent the Sacraments, during the
time of their Mourning : fometimes the Bifhops and Papas are obliged to
conftrain them to communicate, with Menaces of Excommunication,
which the Greeks dread more than Fire it felf. As to the Ceremonies we
have mentioned, they differ in different places ; and at My cone, where we
winter'd, we faw them practis'd as follows.

A S foon as the Perfon has given up the Ghoft, they ring one of their
Bells •, the Relations, Friends, and Weepers, mourn round the Body, which

they

»2

^'Voyage into the Levant.

they carry to the Church loon afterwards, nay they feldom Hay till 'tis quite
cold : they get rid of it as foon as they can, without giving themfelves
the trouble to inquire whether it died of a lingering Sicknefs, or whether
it be only dead in appearance, as Apoplecticks have fometimes been, and
yet recovered. The Funeral flops in the middle of the chief place;
where they weep very bitterly, at lead in appearance. The Papas fay
the Office of the Dead round the Corps : 'tis then carry'd to the Church,
where it is inhumed after reciting a few Prayers, accompany'd with Tears,
Groans, and Sobs, true or counterfeit.

• THE next day they again ring their Bells : they ferve up a Colyva in
the Houfe, on a Carpet fpread on the ground ; their Friends and Rela-
tions place themfelves round it, they weep for two hours, while Mafs for
the Dead is faying at Church. In the Evening they fend thither another
Colyva, with a Bottle of Wine : all the Kindred and Children of the De-
funct that are marry'd, do the like. This is divided among the Papas
that recite the Office : each Man eats and drinks his fill, upon condition
that he drops a few Tears now and then, for Manners lake.

THE third day in the morning they fend other Coly vas ; and as it is
ufual to lay but one Mafs a day in Church, the Papas take their fhare, and
officiate in their own Chappels. The other days, till the ninth, they fay
MafTes only ; the ninth day they perform the fame Ceremony as the
third.

THE fortieth day after the Perfon's Death, and at the end of the
third, ftxth, and ninth Months, and the end of the Year, they do the
lame as on the third day; never failing to beftow a due quantity of Tears.
Every year the Heirs fend the Colyva to the Church, on the day of the
Death of their Father and Mother : and it is only then that the Cere-
mony palTes without grief.

EVE RY Sunday in the firft Year after the Perfon's Death, and fome-
times in the fecond too, they give a great Cake, with Wine, Meat, and
Fifh to fbme poor Man : on Chrifimas-Dny they do the fame, fb that you fee
Quarters of Mutton, Woodcocks, and Bottles of Wine, continually
palling along the ftreets. The Papas diftribute what part of it they think
fit among the Poor, and make merry with the reft : for all thefe Offer-
ings are carry'd from Church to their Houfes. Thus thefe Gentlemen

have

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. i 03

have more than they well know how to confume • and befuks thele Per- Letter III.
quifites of the Church, they are loaded with other Prefents. The Heirs, s-'~v~"v-'
during the firfl Year, give to the Poor night and morning the Portion of
Meat, Bread, Wine and Fruit, that the Defuncl: would have eaten had he
lived.

W E were prefeiit at a very different Scene, and one very barbarous,
in the fame Ifland, which happen'd upon occafion of one of thofe ' Corpfes, ' Vr°u«>]acas.
which they fancy come to life again after their Interment. The Man b?«w'a«w, $
whole Story we are going to relate, was a Peafant of Mycone, natu- b^Wa^, <*
rally ill-natur'd and quarrelfome ; this is a Circumftance to be taken ^o/J^ad'
notice of in fuch cafes : he was murder'd in the fields, no body knew Bedy and *

■ Demon.

how, nor by whom. Two days after his being bury'd in a Chappel in the some think
Town, it was nois'd about that he was feen to walk in the night with great 'J^f^^'l
hafte, that he tumbled about Peoples Goods, put out their Lamps, griped ^fl- Je"y'd
them behind, and a thoufand other monky Tricks. At firfl the Story was "«'• z?im &
receiv'd with Laughter ; but the thing was look'd upon to be ferious, n*Jj™%nkZg
when the better fort of People began to complain of it : the Papas them- fj^u^'l'^
felves gave credit to the Fact, and no doubt had their reafbns for fb ^flom <>f old
doing ; MaiTes mud be faid, to be fure : but for all this, the Peafant AdKxllknl
drove his old trade, and heeded nothing they could do. After divers fies a Dtuh°
Meetings of the chief People of the City,4 of Priefts and Monks, it was
gravely concluded, that 'twas necefTary, in confequence of fbme mufly
Ceremonial, to wait till nine days after the Interment fhould be expired.

O N the tenth day they faid one Mafs in the Chappel where the Body
was laid, in order to drive out the Demon which they imagin'd was got
into it. After Mafs, they took up the Body, and got every thing ready
for pulling out its Heart. The Butcher of the Town, an old clumfy
Fellow, firft opens the Belly inflead of the Bread : he groped a long
while among the Entrails, but could not find what he look'd for ; at lafl
fomebody told htm he mould cut up the Diaphragm. Tne Heart was
pulfd out, to the admiration of all the Spectators. In the mean time, the
Corple flunk fo abominably, that they were obliged to burn Frankincenfe •
but the Smoke mixing with the Exhalations from the Carcafs, increas'd
the Stink, and began to muddle the poor Peoples Pericranies. Their
Imagination, ftruck with the Spectacle before them, grew full of Vifions.

* It

1 04 A Vo yage into the Levant.

' Ic came into their noddles, that a thick Smoke arole out of the Body ;
we durft not lay 'twas the Smoke of the Incenfe. They were incelTant-
ly bawling out VroucoUcas, in the Chappel and Place before it: this is the
name they give to thele pretended Redivivi. The Noile bellow'd through
the ftreets, and it feem'd to be a Name invented on purpofe to rend the
Roof of the Chappel. Several there prefent averr'd, that the Wretch's
Blood was extremely red : the Butcher iwore the Body was flill warm;
whence they concluded, that the .Deceas'd was a very ill Man for not
being thorowly dead, or in plain terms for fuffering himfelf to be re-ani-
mated .by Old Nick ; which is the Notion they have of a VroucoUcaSi
They then roar'd out that Name in a ftupendious manner. Juft at this
time came in a Flock of People, loudly proteftiug they plainly per-
ceiv'd the Body was not grown ftifT^ when it was carry'd from the Fields
to Church to be bury'd, and that conlequently it was a true Vrousolacas;
which word was ft ill the Burden of the Song.

I DON'T doubt they would have fworn it did not ftink, had not
we been there; fo mazed were the poor People with this Difafter, and
fb infatuated with their Notion of the Dead's being re-animated. As
for us who were got as clofe to the Corpfe as we could, that we might be
jmore exadt in our Obfervations, we were almoft poifbn'd with the into-
lerable Stink that ifTu'd from it. When they ask'd us what we thought
of this Body, we told them we believ'd it to be very thorowly dead :
but as we were willing to cure, or at leaft not to exafperate their preju-
diced Imaginations, we reprefented to them, that it was no wonder the
Butcher ihould feel a little Warmth when he groped among Entrails that
were then rotting ; that it was no extraordinary thing for it to emit
Fumes, fince Dung turn'd up will do the lame ; that as for the pretended
Rednefs of the Blood, it ftill appear'd by the Butcher's Hands to be no-
thing but a very {linking nafty Smear.

AFTER «dl our Reafons, they were of opinion it would be their
wifeft courfe to burn the dead Man's Heart on the Sea-more : but this
Execution did not make him a bit more tradable ; he went on with his
racket more furioufly than ever : he was accus'd of beating Folks in the
night, breaking down Doors, and even Roofs of Houfes ; clattering Win-
dows; tearing Clothes; emptying Bottles and Vefiels. Twas the moft

thirfty

The Prefent State of the Greek Church. 105

thirfty Devil ! I believe he did not fpare any body but the Conful in Letter III.
whole Houfe we lodg'd. Nothing could be more miferable than the Con- {^^r^-i
dition of this Ifland ; all the Inhabitants feem'd frighted out of their
fenfes : the wifeft among them were ftricken like the reft : 'twas an Epi-
demical Difeafe of the Brain, as dangerous and infectious as the Madnei;
of Dogs. Whole Families quitted their Houfes, and brought their Tent-
Beds from the fartheft parts of the Town into the publick Place, there to
fpend the night. They were every inftant complaining of fome new In-
iuit ; nothing was to be heard but Sighs and Groans at the approach of
Night : the better fort of People retired into the Country.

WHEN the PrepofTeffion was fo general, we thought it our belt way
to hold our tongues. Had we oppos'd it, we had not only been ac-
counted ridiculous Blockheads, but Atheifts and Infidels. How was it
poflible to ftand againft the Madnefs of a whole People ? Thofe that
believ'd we doubted the Truth of the Fact, came and upbraided us with
our Incredulity, and ftrove to prove that there were fuch things as Frou-
cvlacajfes, by Citations out of the ■ Buckler of Faith, written by F. Ri- ' T*'?^ r»s
cbard a Jefuit Miflionary. He was a Latin, fay they, and confequently >^sm-
you ought to give him credit. We fhould have got nothing by denying
the Juftnefs of the Confequence : it was as good as a Comedy to us every
Morning, to hear the new Follies committed by this Night-Bird ; they
charg'd him with being guilty of the moft abominable Sins.

SOME Citizens, that were moft zealous for the Good of the Publick,
fancy'd they had been deficient in the moft material part of the Cere-
mony. They were of opinion, that they had been wrong in faying Mafs
before they had pull'd out the Wretch's Heart : had we taken this Precau-
tion, quo' they, we had bit the Devil, as lure as a Gun ; he'd ha' been
hang'd before he'd ever ha' come there again : whereas faying Mafs firft,
the cunning Dog fled for it a while, and came back again when the Dan-
ger was over.

NOTWITHSTANDING thefe wife Refledions, they remain'd in
as much perplexity as they were the firft day : they meet night and morn-
ing, they debate, they make Proceflions three days and three nights;
they oblige the Papas to faft ; you might fee them running from Houfe to
Houfe, Holy-Water-Brufh in hand, fprinkling it all about, and wafhing
Vol. L P the

io<5 ^Voyage into the Levant.

the doors with it j nay, they pour'd it into the mouth of the poor Vrou-
coUcas.
imramt. WE fo often repeated it to the Magiftrates of the Town, that in
Cbrifiendom we fhould keep the llrictefl watch a-nights upon fuch an occa-
fion, to obferve what was done ; that at lafl they caught a few Vagabonds,
who undoubtedly had a hand in thefe Diforders : but either they were not
the chief Ringleaders, or elfe they were releas'd too loon. For two days
afterwards, to make themfelves amends for the Lent they had kept in
Prilbn, they fell foul again upon the Wine-Tubs of thofe who were fuch
fools as to leave their Houfes empty in the night : fo that the People
were forc'd to betake themfelves again to their Prayers.

ON E day, as they were hard at this work, after having thick I know
not how many naked Swords over the Grave of this Corpfe, which they
took up three or four tirnes a day, for any Man's Whim ; an Jlbaneze that
happen'd to be at Mycone, took upon him to lay with a Voice of Autho-
rity, that it was to the lait degree ridiculous to make ufe of the Swords
of Chriflians in a cafe like this. Can you not conceive, blind as ye
are, lays he, that the Handle of thele Swords being made like a Crols,
hinders the Devil from coming out of the Body ? Why do you not ra-
ther take the Turkijb Sabres ? The Advice of this Learned Man had no
effect : the VroucoUcas was incorrigible, and all the Inhabitants were in a
flrange Confirmation ; they knew not now what Saint to call upon,
when of a Hidden with one Voice, as if they had given each other the
hint, they fell to bawling out all through the City, that it was into-
lerable to wait any longer ; that the only way left, was to burn the
VroucoUcas intire ; that after fo doing, let the Devil lurk in it if he
could ; that 'twas better to have recourfe to this Extremity, than to have
the Ifland totally deferted : And indeed whole Families began to pack up,
in order to retire to Syra or Tinos. The Magiftrates therefore order'd the
VroucoUcas to be carry'd to the Point of the Ifland St. George, where they
prepared a great Pile with Pitch and Tar, for fear the Wood, as dry as
it was, mould not burn fall enough of it lelf. What they had before left
of this miferable Carcafs was thrown into this lire, and confumed prcfent-
ly : 'twas on the full of January 1701. We law the Flame as we re-
tuin'd from Delus 1 it might jultly be call'd a Bonfire of Joy, fince after

this

The Prefent State of the Greek Church. 107

this no more Complaints were heard againft the Vroucolacas ; they faid Letter III.
that the Devil had now met with his match, and fome Ballads were made ^^~^^^
to turn him into Ridicule.

ALL over the Archipelago they are perfuaded, that only the Greeks of
the Grecian Rite have their CarcaiTes re-animated by the Devil : the In-
habitants of the Ifland of Santorini are terribly afraid of thefe Bulbeg- Sant-Erini.
gars. Thole of Mycone, after their Vifions were clearly diipers'd, began
to be equally apprehenfive of the Profecutions of the Turks and thofe of
the Bifhop of Tinos. Not one Papas would be at St. George when the
Body was burnt, for fear the Biihop mould exact a Sum of Mony of
them, for taking up and burning a Corpfe without permiilion from him.
: As for the Turks, it is certain that at their next Vifit they made the Com-
munity of My cone pay dear for their Cruelty to this poor Rogue, who
became in every refpecl' the Abomination and Horror of his Country-
men. After fuch an Inftance of Folly, can we refufe to own that the
prefent Greeks are no great Grecians ; and that there is nothing but Igno-
rance and Superftition among them ?

WHATEVER their Genius may be, they want Inftru&ion, and
know nothing but by Tradition, which among them is not always infalli-
ble ; fb that it is no wonder they mould {till continue in their anticnt
Herefy concerning the Holy Ghoft, which, according to moll of their
Doctors, does not proceed from the Son : But which of them troubles
hirnfelf with Theological Diiputes, except a few Monks of Monte Santo ?
Moll of the Papas whole Opinions we ask'd upon that head, did not lb
much as know the State of the Queflion. They are much better in-
form'd as to the Eucharift, and reply'd boldly, and as it were in pafllon,
thinking we doubted their Faith, He is prefent corporally, when we ask'd 5«p«7«wV.,
them in what manner they believ'd Chrift to be in the Sacred Hofl.

A S to Purgatory, they know not what to fay to it ; molt of them
imagine that no body mall be judg'd till the end of the World : and tho
they do not determine the Place where the Souls of the Dead are kept
till the Day of the Refurrection, they however pray for the Departed,
in hopes that the Mercy of God may be moved thereby : nay, there are
lome of them that believe the Pains of Hell not to be eternal ; but as

P 2 they

io8

Iktvayiu.

B/o/ S.yuv'
Venet. 1621.
©Hjat/£?f, Pa-
mafceni Thcf-
falonicenfis.
Venet. 1618.
'O Nee* 0ir-

Venet. 1621.

A Voyage /»/o the Levant.

they are very indifferent Geographers, they are as much puzzled where
to place Hell, as where to place Purgatory.

OUR Miflionaries find it very difficult to recall the Greeks to their
true Belief, efpecially in Towns remote from the Sea-Coaft, where
the King's Charities cannot eafily reach. Their Devotion to Saints,
and particularly to the Holy Virgin, wants very little of Idolatry :
thev carefully burn a Lamp before her Image every Saturday ; they are
continually calling upon her, and returning her thanks for the good Suc-
cefs of their Affairs : their Promife is inviolable, when they give it
with either a Kifs or a Touch of her Image ; but then they fbmetimes
grumble at her, and expoftulate with her in their Misfortunes : this Breach
is prefently made whole again, they return to killing her, they call her,
The JH-Holy, and at their Deaths leave her cither a Vineyard or a Field.
Moll of their Chappels are dedicated to her ; the Papas lofe nothing by
this ; they are, as it were by Birth, Heirs of all the Goods belonging
to the Virgin*

THO the Greek Chappels are not very neat, they however never
fail to perform the Office in them regularly every Sunday and Holiday :
this Office is very long, and holds above five or fix hours. After the
ufual Prayers, they read fome Paflages of the Holy Scripture, arid even
the Lives of the Saints in vulgar Greek ; we were affured that there are
many apocryphal Fa&s in thole Hiftories : all this while they lean on a
fort of ' Crutches, which all their Churches are very well furniiTi'd with ;
it would be impoffible for a Man to keep fo long upon his legs, with-
out this help. The Office begins very early in the Morning, according
to the Cuftom of the Primitive Chriflians • and befides, the Greeks may
pray more free from Interruption, while the Turks are afleep : they come
therefore to Church two hours after midnight, and carry Victuals and
Drink with them.

THEIR Country -Feftivals are great Days among them ; the Eve of
thofe Days is fpent in Dancing, Singing, and Feafting : Vollies of Muf
ket-fhot make a great noife all over the Iflands of the JrchipeUgo ; he
that makes the greateft bouncing, is reckon'd the braved Man. The
Day of the Feflival is fet apart for the fame Diverfions, provided they

pay

The Trefent State of the Greek Church. 1 09

pay fbmething to the Turkifh Officer for liberty of Merry-making : Letter III.
they themfelves will join with them, but they do it efpecially in the v-/"^/"^~'
night-time, for fear of being cenfured. The handfomeft Women never
fail to be there ; and nothing is fo little thought of, as the Saint they are
celebrating: inftead of invoking him, they eat ' Fritters fry'd in Oil ; ' TV"*^'*.
fometimes, inftead of a Bean, they mix with them a ' Parat, and he whofe \f fmaU

' L - Silver Com.

mare it falls to, is King of the Feaft. We may fwear they don't forget
drinking and joking : their way of dancing is very fingular, and has no
variety : the Dancers generally hold by one another's Handkerchiefs ; the
Man cuts a thoufand Capers, while the Woman hardly fo much as ftirs.
The higheft of thefe Feftivals are thofe of St. Michael, St. Andrew, St. Ni- JJ&Si.
cholas, St. George, and the Forty Martyrs. Formerly they ufed to recite
the Panegyrick of the Saint whofe Memory they honour'd, but that
Practice is now difcontinu'd in the Iflands of the Archipelago. He that
is at the charge of the Feaft, only gives a few poor People fbmething
to eat ; and this is an Imitation of the ' Banquets of the Primitive Chrif- ' aj«W, Ad-
rians, which * St. Peter, 5 St. Paul, and " St. Jude, found great fault with, that were kept
What would thole Holy Apoftles lay to lome Rogueries now commit- %£ //^

or pro-

tcd by the Curates? On Twelfth-day, for inftance, and at Eafier, upon ™otim °fchtl-
pretence of giving little ' Wax-Candles to the Children gratis, they dearly * 2 Ep;ft iu
fell thole which they diftribute among the grown People ; like lbme *3-
Quacks, who ask nothing for the Vifits they pay to the Sick, but Corinth, dud.
who make themfelves hearty amends in their Demands for their Phy- , ' ■!'

J J * Epift.ver.12.

fick. In mod Villages, on the firft Sunday in Lent, every Family car- ' Uoxwmuov.
ries a s four-corner'd Loaf, each Corner, as alio the Middle of the Loaf, 5 ^fus-?^-
mark'd with the Name of Jefus Chrift : the Papas blefTes it, and diftri-
butes the Corners to four Perfons of the Family, whether Mafters or
Servants ; the Middle is given to fome fifth Perfon, that happens to be
there by chance: and thefe five give to the Curate twelve or fifteen Pence
in all, upon his alluring them that this Bread has more Virtue in it than
the common Holy Bread. Laftly, the Curate receives the moft zealous
of his Parifhioners at the Church-Door, with a Glafs of Brandy in his
hand ; being very certain, that this Glafs will procure him a Jug of
Wine, and a Hollow Bit. Many fuch Abufes as thefe were committed -

among

iio A Voyage into the Levant.

among us, before the Eftabliftiment of Seminaries : we are to look upon
thofe Houfes as fo many Nurferies of True Shepherds and Holy Priefts j
but we dare not hope, that fo wholelbme a Remedy will yet this long
while be ufed in the Greek Church. The Convents of Monte Santo, tho
regular in appearance, breed up the molt dangerous Trickfters, inftead
of Apoftolical Teachers, that might reftore their Ecclefiaftical Difcipline.
I have the honour to be with the profoundeft Refpecl:, ejre.

LET-

(Ill)

LETTER IV.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,-
Secretary of State, &c.

My Lord,

T is fo dangerous going from Candia to the Ifles of the Arcbi- r>efiriptioyf

» & & the lflands of

pelago, on board the Shipping of the Country, that we durfl Argemiere,Mi-
not attempt it : the PafTage is a hundred miles, and thefe Vef- wserpho?
fels or ' Boats, not above fifteen foot long, are presently over- ' Kaimn,
with a fudden Gufl of the North Wind. Befides, there's no fheltring- ai<l"e°
place on the way, which is a grievous misfortune at Sea, when a Temped
rhreatens. We therefore refblv'd to wait for a French Bark : by good
. luck there was at Canea one of thofe which your Lordfhip has forbid pic-
' Peering from Ifland to Ifland for Plunder. I promis'd the Matter not to
nform againft him, and fo he convey'd us to Argentiere, the firft of
Auguft.

THIS Ifland, by the Greeks- calPd Chimoli, took the name of Areen- Kr\inA02-
>iere at the time when the Silver Mines were firft difcover'd there : there Geog. lib. w,
are Hill to be feen the Work-houfes and Furnaces where they ufed to pre- vulgar Greek
pare this Metal ; but at prefent they dare not meddle with this fort of S'.mo'u£ XT

r J Plm. Hilt. Nar.

Work without leave of the Turks, who under pretext that the Inhabi- lib- 4. caP.i2.

_ Argentina

rants of the Ifland reap'd great Advantages therefrom, would be fure to load iaW.
em with Imports. The Inhabitants are of opinion, that the principal LA'eennc'e*
vlines are towards the Poloni fide, a fmall Port of the Ifland Milo. Thefe
[flands are net above a mile afunder from Cape to Cape, as the Geo-
graphers phrafe it } but the PafTage is twice as much. The Port ofArgerr-

tiere

H2 u#Voyage into the Levant.

tiere is not large, nor has it depth enough for Ships of Burden ; which
' S'10C« therefore flop at the Road of the ' South-Eaft, under covert of the Ifle

of Polino, calPd Burnt-Ifland by the Franks.
cimoius quae V LI NT writes, that Cimolus was antiently call'd the Ifland of Vipers :
PK«!^)id. the Breed of 'em muff be now extinct, for the People afTur'd us they
never law any of thofe venomous Creatures. Pinetus, Plinfs Tranflator,
and fome other modern Geographers, thought this was the Ifle of Sican-
dro : for my particular, I take Siccwd.ro to be an imaginary Ifland ; Fm
Jure we could get no tidings of it in the Archipelago.

THERE'S but a fingle Village in Argentiere, and that a very poor
one : the Ifland, which is parch'd up and full of barren Mountains, is
but eighteen miles about. They low no Barley nor Cotton but round
this Village : they drink Wine of Milo and Rain-water, for they have no
Fountain in the whole Country, only a few forry Wells. The Vines
yield no Grapes but for eating : all the Olive-Trees were cut down by
the Venetians, when they had war with the Turks. In fine, this Ifland
is become wretchedly poor ever fince the King put down the Trench
Corfairs in the Levant. Argentiere ufed to be the place of their Rende-
vouz, where they fpent in horrible Debaucheries the Booty they took
from the Turks ; to the great advantage of the Ladies, who are none of
the coyeft nor uglieft : this is the moil dangerous Rock to fplit upon, in
all the Archipelago ; but he mufl be a mere Ignoramus that can't avoid it.

THE whole Trade of the Ifland confifts of this fort of rough Gal-
lantry, fuitable enough to Sailors who have none of the nicefl: Stomachs :
the Women have no other Employment but making Love and Cotton
.Stockings. Thefe Stockings are none of the neateft, tho they fapply
the neighbouring Ifles with 'em. The Men ufe the Sea, and in time grow
to be very good Pilots. As for Religion, they are not over-burden'd
with it here, any more than in the other Ifles of the Archipelago ; where
they are thorowly ignorant and illiterate, confequently very ibrry Chrit
tians, I may fay, downright Villains. The People of Argentiere are almoft
all of the Greek Communion, and are flill in poiTeffion of a fcore of
fmall Bells in their Chappels \ a notable Privilege, confidering the Go-
vernment they live under ! The Latins here are few in number, and
there's ne'er a Barrel the better Herring between them and the Greeks.

* The

T>efcription of the Ifland of Argentiere. 113

The Latin Church is fupply'd by a Vicar of the Bifhop of Mtlo, to which Letter IV.
Argentiere is a fort of Suburb. Juftice is adminifter'd here by a Judge ^"v'^»
Itinerant, who is the only Muffulman of the whole Ifland : he is mod
commonly without either Man or Maid-Servant, and dares not talk big,
for fear the Inhabitants ihould fend him packing on board fome Corfair

of Malta.

ARGENTIERE is never mention'd in antient Hiflory : it is an
liland that always follow'd the Fate of Milo. In the Overthrow of the
Greek Empire by the Latins. Marco Sanudo a Venetian Nobleman annex'd Hiitory of the

-. 1 ■ 1 r 1 ,n 1 i- • • Dukes of the

it to the Dutchy of Naxia, together with iome other Iilands adjoining ; Arching*.
it was afterwards involv'd in the Conqueft of the Archipelago by Bar-
barojfd.

AS poor a place as Argentiere is, it pays the Turks 1000 Crowns for
the ' Capitation and * Land-Tax, which confifts in the fifth part of all ■ K=$«War.
Commodities : befides thefe Duties, the Inhabitants prefent the Collectors , ™^6e .
with j or 400 Crowns. &n&-mi, De-

THERE are but two things in this Ifland which concern Natural
Hiitory ; the Terra Cimolia, and the Vegetables : as for the Silver Mines,
they are no more to be thought of.

The J Terra Cimolia, fo highly efteem'd by the Antients, is a white • 'h y» Kif^.
Chalk, very heavy, without any tafle, abounding with a fmall Grit that Ge^TiKc.*
lets one's teeth on edge : this Chalk is eafily crumbled, but it does not Crecx Plura

0 J genera ; ex lis

ferment, nor has the leaft EfTervelcence when 'tis put in Water ; it only cimoiix duo
melts away, and turns to a Glue : its Solution, which is greyilh, makes penineinia,5
no alteration in the Tindure of Turn-fole, nor is it in the leaft affected SSSSfa
by Oil of Tartar. Spirit of Salt ftrew'd on the Terra Cimolia ferments 'neKnans.piiw.
cold, as do all flony Subftances : which makes me believe, that this fortM.35. M/-.17.
of Chalk is the fame with that which is found about Paris, only the
former is more fat and loapy ; and accordingly it is ufed in warning of
Linen, to fave the Expence of Soap, but it does not waih near fo white.
I fancy any fort of Chalk would do as well ; only care muft be taken in
this of Argentiere to feparate the Grit, which would tear the Linen. To
conclude, thefe Iflanders make no other Lye to wain with ; and this has
been a very old Cuftom here, fince I Pliny declares they made life of it in ♦ lblJ
cleanfing of Stuffs.

Vol.I. O AS

ii4

Cretofaque ru-
ra Cinioli.
W.atn. lib. 7

MHA02.
Strab. Ker.
Geog. lib. 10.
Melos. Plin.
Hifi. Nat.
lib. 4. cap. 12,
Milo, or Le
Milo.

* Ha;c inful.i-
rum omnium
rotundifiima.
Plin. ibid.

' 'H Utihoi

t'vtwv. Strab.
ibid.

I Lib. 5.

* Thucyd. 1. 2,

5 Lib. 5.

* Narrat, jdL

I Thucyd. 1. 3

* Diod. Sicul.
Biblioth. Hift.
!ib. 12.

^ Voyage into the Levant.

A S for the Medicinal Virtues of the Terra Cimolia, the Antients em-
ploy'd it in difcufling of Tumours : the Moderns would do better, in the
room of it, to fubftitute Potters Earth rather than Cutlers. Ovid, ipeak-
ing of Cimolm, very truly fays it was a very clayey Country ; it is almoft
all over white with it : we found none inclining to red ; perhaps the other
fort of Cimolia, mention'd by Pliny, lies deeper.

A S for Vegetables, they were all burnt up when we arriv'd at Ar<ren~
tiers : 'tis the lame in the other Iflands, towards the end of July ; the
annual Plants are all gone; there's no knowing 'em but by their Skele-
tons, as one may fay, or by their Seeds ihed on the ground, and which
grow up after the firfl Rains of the Autumn.

BEING incumbred with our Baggage, and repofing no great Confi-
dence in the People of the Place, we went over to the Ifland of Milo in
lefs than half an hour, on the fecond of Augutt, in the ordinary Ferry
which goes and comes every day from one Ifland to the other. Strabo
places Milo 24 miles off Cape Skilli in the Morea, and almoft the fame
diftance from Cape Spada in Candia. A hundred miles between theie two
Iflands, is the general Computation. Milo is a fine Ifland, almoft ' round,
about fixty miles in compafs, well cultivated ; and its Haven, which is
one of the beft and largeft of the Mediterranean, ferves as a Retreat for
all Shipping that ufe the Levant : for it is fituated at the Entrance of the
Archipelago, which was known to the Antients by the name of the
Eaean Sea.

o

THIS Ifland, tho fmall, was very " confiderable in the time that
Greece flourilh'd. Milo, lays Thucydides, enjoy'd a perfect Liberty 700
Years before the famous War of Peloponneftts, which he gives io exact a
Defcription of : a War wherein not only Greece was concern'd, but all
the neighbouring Iflands and principal Towns of the AJiatick Coaft. In
this hurly-burly, the 4 Miliotes, notwithstanding ftrong Court was made
to 'em by the Athenians, refolv'd to ftick to a Neutrality : peradventure
becaufe they were delcended of the Lacedemonians, according to ' Thucydi-
des and " Conon ; tho Stephens the Geographer makes Milo a Colony of
Phemcians. 1 Nicias the Athenian General came to Milo with a Fleet of
60 Sail, and 2000 Soldiers on board, who landed, and laid the whole
Country wafte : yet ' was he fain to raife the Siege of the Town, which,
^ according

i >///,/ , > '/J,/,/// . rL y/ Dv/U* sf <?//// ruSaAjt twin* ZJlcuub . * ' l/ ^

£//////- Zs/a/id

Definition of the IJIand of Milo. 1 1 5

according to ' Syncellus, is as antient as Minos the Son of Europa. Some Letter IV.
Years afterwards the Athenians made another Defcent with 3000 Men, !"£^f.
commanded by Cleomedes and Tijias; who after a tedious Conference "l.Annai.
with the Chiefs of the Ifle, block'dup the Town : but the Miliotes tuirfd ucy ' "5
their Works. At length Philocrates bringing a frefli Reinforcement from
Athens, they furrendred at dilcretiou ; and then happen'd that mighty
Maflacre, fpoken of by Strabo, Diodorus Siculus, and Thucydid.es. The
Athenians, by advice of* Alcibiades, put to death all the Inhabitants of ' P'utaixh. in
Milo, except the Women and Children, + which were carry'd away Slaves 4 xhucyd.ibid.
into Attica. Five hundred Perlbns of the lame Country were brought
over to fettle a Colony in the Ifland : mean while, 5 Lyfander the Lacede- JSJjy"^ in
monian General having obliged Athens it felf in its turn to furrender at
diicretion, the remainder of the Miliotes were reftor'd into the Ifland, and
the Colony of Athenians fent back again.

MILO afterwards underwent the fame Fate with the other Illands of
the Archipelago, that is to fay, it fell under the Yoke of the Romans, and
then under the Greek Emperors. Marco Sanado, firft Duke of the Archi- Sa«ut' Kb. r.
pelago, join'd this Ifland to the Dutchy of Naxia in the Reign of Henry r I207.P
of Banders, Brother to the Emperor Baldwin. It was difmember'd from
this Dutchy by John Sanudo, the fixth Duke of the Archipelago, who H,ftor>' of the
yielded it up to Prince Marco his Brother, who gave it for a Dowry with Archipelago.
his Daughter Florentia to Francis Crifpo. This Crifpo, who was delcended
of the antient Greek Emperors, found means to re-unite Milo to the
Dutchy of Naxia, by procuring Nicholas Carcerio, the ninth Duke there-
of, to be aflaffmated : whereby Crifpo became the tenth Sovereign of the
Dutchy of the Archipelago. This Ifland, and molt of the others of this
Dutchy, were redue'd by Barbaroffa to the Obedience of Solyman II.

W E have leen in our days a Miliote, whole Name was Capji, let him-
felf up for King of Milo : he wanted neither Courage nor Talents for go-
verning •, but he was fo indilcreet, as to delcend from his Throne, and
without his Guards pay a Vifit to a Turkish Captain of a Ship, who was
come to make him lome advantageous Propofitions from the Grand Vifier,
to whom this new Sovereign had given ibme trouble : loon as Capji was
on board, they hoifted fail, and carry'd the Wretch away to Confianiino-
ple ; where, after a Reign of three Years, he was hang'd at the door of

Q^ 2 the

1 1 6 ^f Voyage into the Levant.

■ n Bagno. t]ie . prifon for Slaves. Not Co imprudent were the antient Inhabitants of
De vh-timbiis ^/^ mention'd by Plutarch ; they having planted a Colony at Cryajfa, a
Town of Can a, caus'd their Wives to conceal each a Dagger in her
Boibm, with which they very feafonably murder'd the Inhabitants of the
Town, who dcfign'd to have done as much by them, and to that end
had invited 'em to a Banquet.

W E landed at a place calPd Poloni, on account, I fuppofe of lome an-
tient Temple of Apollo : here we were fain to tarry till Noon, before we
could get Horfes ; for it is five miles from Poloni to the Town, which is
call'd after the name of the lfland, according to the old Cuftom of Greece
De slmP^Me- noted by Galen. After travelling more than half-way amidft Hills and
lib. 9. §. 11. barren Fields, you come into a very pleafant Plain, which extends itfelf
as far as the Town of Milo. This Town contains near 5000 Souls, and
is prettily built, but abominable nafty ; for when they make an Erection
of a Houfe, they begin with the Hogfty, beneath an Arch even with the
ground, or a little lower, and always fronting the Street : in a word, it
is the Jakes of the whole Houfe. The Ordure that gathers there, join'd
to the Salt-marines on the Sea-fide, the mineral Exhalations of the
lfland, the Scarcity of good Water, fb infecl: the Air, that it breeds very
dangerous Diftempers. The Houfes of this Town are far beyond thofe
of Ca.nd.ia. ; the former being two Stories terrace-wife, the Mafbnry well
perform'd, the Material an uncommon fort of Stone, like a Pumice, but
hard, blackifh, light of weight, not fufceptible of ImpreiTions of the
Air, and very fit for fharpning all forts of Iron Tackle. 'Tis not likely
De Lapidib. Theophrafim and Pliny meant this fort of Stone, when they faid the beft
Jib.36.cap.21. Pumice-Stones were found in this lfland; for the Antients ufed it to
dorunUmpeN foften the Skin, and make it look fleek. It is certain, the common
cujus textma pumices are much fitter for this purpofe, but thofe of Milo did not feem

ad pumicem r r

accedit ? to us to have a finer Contexture than thofe which are on the fhores of all
the Grecian Iflands ; they come all out of the fame Quarry, as hereafter
we fliall fee. The Terraces at Milo are made juft as thofe of the other
Towns of the Archipelago ; that is to fay, a Lay of Earth well beaten
up, which fplitting, lets in the firft Rain- Water through a thoufand
Chaps ; but it becomes ftronger and firmer, as it imbibes the Water, and
its Crevices Clofe up very leifurely.

* THE

r&.x.

2Ja4.J17 .

Defcription of tte Ifland of Milo. 1 1 7

THE French Capuchins are well lodg'd in this Ifland, at the Entrance Letter IV-
into the Town on the right hand coming from the Port : fome years ago s-/^/ ^
their Convent was demolifh'd by the Turks, under pretence that they con-
ceal'd the Plunder made by the Rovers ; the Houfe is rebuilt, and the new
Church is very pretty, confidering the place : the King contributed i ooo
Crowns towards this Building ; the French Merchants, the Captains of
Ships, and the very Corfairs, beftow'd their Benefa&ions according to
their refpe&ive Abilities, the Capuchins themfelves being every where
very poor. In the Levant they lay out what they can fpare towards
the maintenance of poor Chriftian Families, nor do they omit any oppor-
tunity of relieving or delivering of captive Slaves. One of the two Fa-
thers that are in the Convent of Milo, keeps a School for Greek, the other
for Italian r they have in their Garden an antique Figure without a Head, .
and in other refpeclrs much maim'd ; 'tis thought to have been a Statue of
Pandora, what is left of it is very curious. I rather took it to be a
Diana, fuch as we fee her reprefented on fome Medals of Domitian, Tra- aptemis
jan, Marcus Attrelius, Commodus, and others. to2> Diana •

THE Miliotes are good Sailors ; being much ufed to the Archipelago, p^f mant~
they ferve as Pilots to moft Ships trading thither from abroad. When
the French Corfairs were mafters of the Sea in the Levant, this Ifland
abounded with all manner of Accommodations : they ftill have in their
mouths the Atchievements and heroick Actions of Meffieurs Benevitte
Temericourt, Chevalier d? Hoquincour, Hugh Cr livelier, and others who
ufed to bring in their Prizes thither, as the principal Fair of the Archi-
pelago : Merchandize ufed to {ell cheap, the Burghers retail'd them again .
with good advantage, and the Ships Crews made conlumption of the Pro-
duel: of the Country.

THE Ladies likevvife made no ill hand of it ; they are as arrant Co-
quettes as at Argentiere • they all make ufe of the Powder of a Sea-Plant
to beautify themfelves; it gives a Ruddinefs to their Cheeks, but it loon Akyonium c'j.
goes off; and fpoils the Complexion, as well as deftroys the upper Skin. ,um Impcr*
The Ladies of both Iflands follow the lame Drefs ; it is a very diiadvan-
tageous one to the Fair Sex, and muft needs look very odd in the eyes of
all Foreigners : it utterly mif-mapes them, and reprefents the prettiefl of

'em

ii8 A Voyage Into the Levant.

'em with monftrous mill-poll Legs, fie for nothing but to be painted on
Skreens or Fans.
cadi. I N Milo there are none but Greeks, except the ' Judge, and he's a

• Hewhokvies Turk. The 2 Wayvod is ufually a Greek, who not only levies the Land-
Tax, but alio has power of chaftizing Offenders, and inflicting the Bafti-
nade, in like manner as the Aga of the Janizaries in the Towns of Turk)-
In the Year 1700, the Land-Tax amounted to 5000 Crowns, and the
like Sum was paid to Me&omorto, the Captain-Bafhaw, for the Capitation.
EmT&KK, Every year they chufe three Confuls at Milo ; they are call'd Epitropi, and
iritendant. ' thole who go out, Primati or Vechiardi, that is, antient Confuls. The
Confuls for the time being have the management of the City-Rents, ac-
cruing from the Cuftoms, the Salt-pits and Mill-flones : the whole is
farm'd out at no more than 1000 Crowns a year. The Cuftoms are 3 per
Cent, on all forts of Wares. The Hand-Mills made here are very neat,
and the Stone excellent : they are exported to Constantinople, Egypt, the
Mi/a<*. Morea, Zjnt, Ceph&lonia, and even Ancone. Mylos in Greek fignifies a

Mill ; 'tis faid the Ifland borrow'd its Name from the great Trade it drove
in thefe Mills, but 'tis much more likely, that it has preferv'd its antient
Name of Melos, (now Milo) which Fefius derives from a Phenician Cap-
tain call'd Melos.
' Kiho. AS for Salt, it cannot be faid to be fold here ; for the ordinary f Mea-

*22oOques. fure, which weighs + 66 Pounds French, is to be had for feven Pence.
The Salt-pits are two miles from the Town : in Winter the Sea-water
fills the Cifterns with it, and in the great Heats the Salt chryftallizes
therein.

THE Confuls have the Nomination of all the Officers to collect the
Capitation in the Town : each Head is rated at five Crowns ; they then
pay over this Mony to the Captain-Balhaw's Order. The Turks are con-
tinually griping thefe poor Greeks : for example, when we were there,
they would take Sequins at no more than two Crowns, whereas they are
worth feven Livres ten Sols ; another year they will be paid in fuch Goods
of the Country, as are like to produce moft Gain, fuch as Silk and fpun
Cotton : more than that, you mufl make 'em large Prelents, if you would
avoid being put in Irons or baftinado'd. The Turks are more inlblent
than ever in the Iflands, fince the difappearing of the French Corfairs, fo

that

Defer ipt ion of the Ifland of Milo. 119

that the Greeks are at a lofs what to wife : the Corfairs kept the Turks in Letter IV.
awe, and eat up the Profit of their Captures in the Country ; but then •"
they were fometimes none of the eafieft Guefts to be dealt with.

SUITS in Law come firft before the Confuls and Primati ; from
whom an Appeal lies to the Cadi, if the Party pieafes : but the Confuls,
who afllft at the Cadi's giving Judgment, will not only threaten to turn
him out of the Ifland, but often aclually do fo, if he does not do juftice.
The Grand Cadi of Scio has the right of fending another : the new Cadi
is treated for three days by the Officers of the Town, who afllgn him a
Lodging, he paying the Rent. He has i o per Cent, out of the Effects that
are litigated ; fometimes he takes Silver of one fide and Gold of t'other :
the bigger Sum determines his Decree. If, as it fometimes happens, he's
an honeft Man, he orders immediate Payment in Mony or Merchandize •
if the Debtor has no EfTe&s, he's undone, unlels he craves time to make
Satisfaction ; if he denies the Debt, his Oath is taken, and he exemp-
ted from farther Profecution : a Papas is fent for, to be prelent at his
fwearing by the Gofpel ; or if he has no mind to flay till the Papas
comes, he fwears him by the Alcoran.

THERE are two Bifhops in this Ifland, the one a Greek, the other
a Latin ; this laft has but one Prieft for his whole Body of Clergy, tho
he be Bifhop of Milo, Argent iere, and Sipbanto, where he keeps only
fimple Vicars : the See was vacant in 170c, and 'twas thought the Pope
would have none but an Apoftolical Vicar there, in regard the Church of
Milo is not endow'd with above 1 50 Crowns Rent ; formerly it had 500,
but the Grand Signior after the War of Candia having caus'd the Iflands to
be vifited, and the Titles of thofe who were poffefs'd thereof examiu'd,
the Latin Bilhop of Milo, who under leave of the Venetians enjoy'd Burnt-
IJland, was found to be without Title : whereupon this Ifland, which ad-
joins to Argent iere, was put to fale by Auction, and fold for 500 Crowns.
The laft Bifhop died fo neceffitous, that he had pawn'd the Chalice, Mi-
tre, and all the Ornaments of his Church : he had ftarv'd to death, had
not the King allow'd him a Penfion. The Epifcopal Church is in-
titled St. Cofmus and St. Damianus ; it was heretofore a Greek Chappel,
fold to the Latins : the Bifhop's Lodge, which is exactly oppofite, is very
handfome. This Bifhop has no contcft with the Greek Bifhop about

thei

I.20

' 'OlXfiVOfiU!.
* 2*l«SAAtt-

A Voyage into the Levant.

their Income, tho M. Thevenot affirms the contrary : perhaps the Occa-
fton of their Difference is ceas'd.

THE Greek Biihop is rich. We law him not J he was gone to Con-
(htntmople to be confirmed by the Patriarch, who had appointed a new-
one with defign to extort Mony from the old one.

THE principal Church of Milo is our Lady of the Port, nctvxyix

nO£7T«XVW.

THE others are St. Normantinm, a Hermit of Mount Sinai. The
Greeks call this Saint Kxa^KciSo^ as who mould lay, a Saint that is in-
voked in cafes of Leprofy : Kag^ fignifies Black, and a&Gos a Leper.

THE Grand St. George, '*yiv> napyioi (AtyxKos.

ST. George the Hermit, 'a}<os recogj^os /ACvovx<snioftt$.

THE Annonciade near the Square, 'tvxyfchWty.

ST. Anthony near the Caftle, ' hyice, avtow'os.

S T. Demetrius in the lame Quarter, \yio% ah/wht^i'oc.

ST. Michael, the Archangel, '&ym<; Ta|i'«gxHS.

ST. John Baptist, 't>.yi@j icsxvvk ngo'^,go/u<§H.

THE Grand St. Nicholas, 'Ay!& Nmo\a©j iAiyxh(Qj;

THE Little St. Nicholas, 'A.y!& NwoA.a©-' ftwgos.

THE Holy Gholt, ' Ay iov mivi&x.

S T. Athanajius, 'Ayi& A3rtv&ai&.

ST. Spiridion, 'Ayl& s^g/^?.

01) R Lady, Uxvxy'ix Kugi'a.

THE Forty Saints, 'a>i'o« salvia.

ST. Polycarpas, a/®-' noAvstagTrcs.

S T. Eleutherius, 'Ayi& hhitttp^

THESE Churches are fo many Pariflies, and each hath its Papas.
Next to the Biihop, the ' Economus is the firfl; Dignity Ecclefiaftick ;
he walks on the right hand of that Prelate, whole Subftitute or Vicar
he is. The ' Treafurer walks on the left : the ' Archivift or Record-
keeper comes next ; all his Places are in the Bilhop's dilpofal : more than
this, he has thirty Priefts under him.

BESIDES the Chappels, which are very numerous in this Illand,
there are thirteen Monafteries : to wit,

OVR Lady of the Cajtle, uxmyiA Kot^iocvw, two miles from the Town,
Eaftvvard. , 5 71

Defcription of the Ijland of Milo. i 2 1

S T. Helen, towards the North, a mile from the Town, 'a^x z\(w. Letter IV*

OV R Lady of the Veil, on a little Hill, Eaflward, a mile and a half ^r^r^^J
from the Town, nxvxyix "a^u^m.

6" T. Michael the Archangel, depending on the Convent of the fame
Name, which is in the Ifle of Serpho, 'Ayv^rxlix^wi.

THE Monapry of Chritf, dependant on the Convent of St. John de
Patino or Patmos, 'o x^scs.

5 T. Saba, belonging to the Patriarch of Jerafalent, \ylx xa€«.

5 T. Johtr de Fer, fituated below the Mountain of St. Elijah, rAy&

OVR Lady of the Mount, Eafhvard, four "miles from the Town,
uxvxyx B8v«5b.

OVR Admirable Lady, four miles ofF in like manner, uxvxylx Oio-Qxvt.

OV R Lady of the Garden, nxvxyix Kynro.

S T. Elijah near Cajlro, on a Hill over againfl the grand Mountain of
St. Elijah, on the top whereof is a Solitude, where there's but one
Caloyer; 'a>«s 'bKU<;.

ST. George the Bald, on a Hill near St. Elijah, in fight of the Port,
'Ayloi rs&pj/ios koc7t»a.us.

ST. Marine, a Convent below St. Elijah, 'a-^x m«?i'vm.

THIS is the faireft Monaftery in all the Ifland : they drink admira-
ble Wine, not at all inferiour to that of Candia. There are more Olive-
Trees hereabouts, than any where elfe throughout Milo. The Spring that
waters the Gardens of this Convent, is very beautiful, and runs down
into a huge Well. The Orange and Cedar-Trees would be perfectly fine,
did they but know how to manage 'em. The Neighbourhood of the
Houfe is pleafant, cover'd with Maflick and Arbute-Trees, which are
elfewhere very fcarce ; for they burn nothing m this Ifland but Under-
Wood, and for fifteen or twenty Pence, they buy an Afs-load of it.

A S for what concerns Natural Hiflory, Milo muft be look'd upon to
be an almofl intirely hollow Rock,- fpungy, and fbak'd, as one may fay,
vvith Salt-water of the Sea. The Iron Mines which are found there, and
Tom whence a certain Tract of Land takes the denomination of St. John s//»^-w<>
le- Fer, maintain perpetual Fires : the following Experiments feem to de- m
nonftrate this Metal to be the chief Caufe of fubterranean Fires. A
VbL I. R Prin-

122 A Voyage into, the Levant.

Principle, which, well evinc'd, will help to explain the Production of
the Minerals, which this Ifland fo abounds with.

'TIS certain, Filings of Iron, fteep'd in common Water, will grow
confiderably warm, and much more lb in Sea-water ; and if you mingle
therewith fome Sulphur powder'd, you will fee this Mixture really burn
fome time after 'tis inoiiten'd. It is therefore probable, that the Fires
which are conftantly felt in this Ifland, are folely occafion'd by a ferru-
ginous Matter, and by Sulphur, which no place in this Ifland is without :
thefe Materials are heated by being drench'd with Sea-water. Coafting
round the Ifland in a Boat, a Man difcovers multitudes of fubterranean
Mouths, through which the Sea-water ingurgitates, and by means where-
of the Sea-falt is convey'd into the minutefl Cavities of this ipungeous
Rock.

'T I S highly probable, this Salt undergoes much the lame Procefs as
that we put in our Retorts : namely, the Fire which is continually heat-
ing the Bowels of this Ifland, caules an acid Spirit to feparate from this
Salt, which Spirit is not unlike that we draw from Sea-falt by common
Fire. To the forefaid Acid muft be refer'd the Production of Alum and
Sulphur, which are the commoneft Minerals in Milo : for this Liquor pe-
netrating infenfibly the hardeit Rocks, diflblves 'em, incorporates with
'em, and is converted into Alum. We can hardly make a queftion of
this, fince by pouring Spirit of Salt upon common Stones or upon Chalk,
aluminous Concretions are produced : the fame acid Spirit, mix'd with the
Brimflone which pervades the Veins of the Earth, occafions the Forma-
tion of Sulphur. No body denies that Sulphur is only a fat Subftance
fix'd by an acid Spirit : the Sulphur which is artificially made, and the
Analyfis of common Sulphur, put this Truth out of all difpute. The
Water of the Sea is not only fait, but bitter and fat : for all things well
confider'd, what can become of that vaft quantity of Oil which mufl be
depofited therein by the Fifh, which are continually corrupting ? No
wonder the Sea is fbmetimes in a flame, when agitated by Tempefts.
Perhaps this Fat is partly the Matter of Brimflone, of which the com-
mon Sulphur is made ; and this may be the realbn of Sulphur's being or-
dinarily found in places lying to the Sea, where Earthquakes are but too
frequent. Such are the famous Vulcanoes that vomit Flames of Fire ; Ve-

fuvius,

Defer iption of the Ifland of Milo. 123

fuvias, Stromboli, Mount JEtna, Mountains in Ireland, Fayal, Pic-Tene- Letter IV-
rife. In thefe Iflands, and on the Coafts of the Terra-frma of America, t-*s^v-**^
there are Fires which have been burning from the beginning of the World.

T O return to the Ifland of Milo, it certainly abounds with all the
Materials neceffary to the Production of Alum and Sulphur. As for
Nitre, there's none at all, whatever the Inhabitants fay, who confound it
with Alum. The Sulphur of Milo is very beautiful, and has a greenifh
mining Call, which made the Antients prefer it to that of Italy • it is Sed nobiiifll-

,., . iii- 1 11 muminMelo

found in this Ifland in large pieces when they dig up the ground, and in in&U. pu».
huge Veins in the Quarries whence they draw their Mill-ftones. If the f^'cf?"t1\lf'
other Iflands are without thefe forts of Minerals, it is becaufe their inte- tivv£tu 3
rior Structure favours not the Introduction of the Sea-water into the Hoi- Z'^"/"*,.
lows of the Rocks, and becaufe they are empty of ferruginous Particles. •**»• Diofc*

^ J r / ° lib. $. cap. 1 24.

THUS is the Ifland of Milo a natural Laboratory, wherein is conti-
nually preparing Spirit of Salt, Alum, Sulphur, by means of the Sea-wa-
ter, Iron, and Rocks ; and by the Angular Structure of the Interior of the
Ifland, which is lb form'd as to flrain the faline and fat part of the Sea-
water : thefe parts are put in motion by the Violence of the Burnings exci-
ted therein day and night by the Iron and Sulphur • which Burnings, pro-
duced by the Spirit of Salt, give birth to the Sulphur and Alum. Tis
oblervable, that this fpungy cavernous Rock, on which Milo is founded,
is a kind of Stove, gently warming the Earth, and caufing it to bring
forth the bed Wines, and Figs, and mofl delicious Melons of the Archi-
pelago. The Sap of this Earth is admirable, and is always at work ; the
Fields there are never at reft. The firfl Year is fbwn Wheat, the fecohd
Barley, and the third they raife Cotton, Pulfe, and Melons, all higgledy-
piggledy. The Champain is cover'd over with all manner of good things:

the Lands are ib many Gardens, feparated from each other by Walls of
dry Stone, without either Mortar or Mud. In time of War they fow x> ion five
but little Cotton, becaufe the Armies are furnifh'd from thence with Corn, ba^eum"01
French-Beans, and other Pulfe : in time of Peace they don't gather Corn f*au"' *'
enough for the Inhabitants ; but they fow a great deal of Cotton, which
yields a better Price. Cotton in the Cod, that is, wrapt in its Fruit, is
worth a Sequin the Hundred Weight, and ten or a dozen Livres when it 7 l>v. jo s.
is ftript. 140 Liv.

1 weight.

R 2 FROM

124. ^Voyage into the Levant

FROM the Town to the Road for Ships, the length of two miles,

there's nothing to be feen but Gardens, and Fields crouded with Wheat,

Barley, Cotton, Sefamum, Frencb-Beanss Melons, Gourds, Coloquintida ;

thefe Fields are terminated by the Salt-pits, and the Salt-pits by the fore-

faid Road, the Heights whereof are cover'd with fine Vineyard Plots,

Olive and Fig-Trees.

THIS Road may eafily contain a large Naval Army : its Entrance

Miftwi. faces the North- Weft, and the Ships he fecure from every Wind towards

rifUTt.5*- the Protothalaffa, where is good Anchorage. The two fmall Rocks at the

teZ'uM, mouth of the Road are call'd Jcraries, that is to lay, Eminencies : Anti-

milo is a defart Ifland rifing like a Sugar-Loaf, between the Weft and the

North- Weft j the Greeks call it Remomilo, and the Franks continue to call

it after its old Name Antimilo. Prafonifi is another Ifland near the Port

of St. John de Fery behind the Mountain of St. Elijah, on the left of the

Road, as you come from the Town. There are likewife many fmall

Shelves or Rocks round Milo ; but they're too inconfiderable to be taken

particular notice of.

IN Spring-time Milo and the reft of the Iflands of the Archipelago are
all like a Carpet, thick-fet, and as it were ftudded with Anemonies of all
Colours ; they are fimple, and yet from their Seeds come the moft beau-
tiful Kinds that arefeenin our Parterres. Of all the rare Plants growing
rimpinelia fpi- in this Ifland, the prickly Pimpernelle was that which pleas'd us moft : we
peahens fem na(* met with it before in Candid, but I could not perfuade my felf that
Mor.umb.^. tnjs plant, which requires great Care to raife in our Gardens, could be Co
common in the Archipelago. It is an Under- Shrub, call'd in vulgar Greek
Stcebida : befides the Relemblance of its Name, it aniwers in its Virtues
2t»/«. Diofc. to the Step be of Diofcorides. The prickly Pimpernelle is of marvellous
ufe in this Ifland, towards multiplying tiic Pafturages, and transforming as
it were the Heaths into Meadows. In Augujl, when it blows North, and
this Plant is dry'd up, they let fire to the foot of it ; in an inftant
the Wind carries the Flames far and wide, even to the very Mountains.
The firft Autumn-Rains that fall, fetch out an excellent Herbage from
thefe burnt Lands : and this much lboner than in France, becaufe it never
freezes in this Ifland, and very rarely fnows; when it does, the Snow
melts away in a quarter of an hour : the Cold here is not at all preju-
dicial

Defcription of the Tjland of MWo. 12$

dicial to the Olive-Trees, as in Provence and Languedoc, where the Con- Letter IV.
texture of the Bark of thofe Trees is torn by the Dilatation of the Water, *-»V»*
which freezes in the Pores of their Fibres. This happy Temperature,
and the Goodnefs of the Pafturage, contribute mainly to the Excellence
of the Cattel bred in this Ifland ; where you fee fine Flocks of Goats, of
whofe Milk they make admirable Cheefe. ' CL,..cns Alexa.nd.rinm and ' P«dagog.
• Julius Pollux, in reckoning up the niceft things ferving for Food iftt-^JJ.
Greece, have not forgot the Goats of Milo. v{£\?™~

WINE is one of the beft Commodities of this Ifland ; throughout cap. 10.
the Archipelago they make it thus : Every private Man has in his Vine-
yard a fort of a ' Ciftern, of what dimensions he thinks fit ; it is made ' n*7»we*.
fquare, well wall'd, and cemented with Brick-Mortar, open at top. In „ m^J-prefil
this they flarnp the Grapes, after letting 'em lie in it two or threcdaysto ""^£^1
dry : as faft as the Muft or Liquor runs out at a certain hole of Commu- This Refervoir
nication into a Bafon plac'd below the Ciftern, they pour it into Leather ;.,-.V; i-> it
Budgets, and away with it to Town, where they empty 'em into Casks c'rlpLflkh
of Wood, or into large Earthen Jars, bury'd up to the neck in the ground : *«s» fiat

' " in.ii Stones fiat d

in thefe Veffels this new Wine works as it lifts ; they throw into it three at to?.
or four Handfuls of white-lime Plafter, with the addition now and then
of a fourth part of frefh or fait Water, according, to the Conveniency of
the place. After the Wine has fufficiently work'd, they flop up the
VelTels with Plafter ; which is no fcarce thing here, efpecially towards
Poloni : for want of Wood, they burn it with Cow-dung.

THEIR way of warning Linen, is, to let it fteep in Water ; then
fmear it with a white Earth or Chalk, the fame as the Terra Cimolia
mention'd before. A finer and whiter fort, I'm apt to think, might be
found, if they would take pains to dig for it. Diofcorides and Pliny call Meiinnm can-
it the Earth of Milo, becaule in their days the beft was found in this eft optimu^™

jn . . inlnfulaMelo.

"W*' Plin.Hifi.Nat.

THE Waters of Milo are not very good to drink, efpecially in low ''*• 35 • M/« 6»
places, where they a*e infected with a Smell of Sulphur and rotten Eggs.
They have fcarce one good Spring but that of Cafiro, which is warm at
its Source, but grows very cold two hours after 'tis drawn up ; and for
Lightnefs of Weight, none can compare with it. In the time of the laft
War, General Morofini fent fome Galliots to fetch a quantity of it for

his

126

A»T£$t. 'Pit

■ja Akt£«,
ad Balnea.

A Voyage into the Levant.

his Tabic. Ca/lro is a Village (landing on a Mountain, on the left hand
as you enter the Road. The People of Provence call it Six-Ovens, from
its refembling a Village of the fame name not far from Toulon. Our
Abode for fome days in this Ifland, gave us an opportunity to make the
following Remarks.

THE publick Baths are at the foot of a fmall Hill on the right, going
down from the Town to the Port : The Greeks call thefe Baths Loutray
and not Staloutra, as the Franks pronounce it ; who on this occafion,
as well as many other, corrupt the Expreffion ufed by the Greeks,
when they call to one another to go to the Baths. You enter in at a
Cavern, which you muft (loop to go through ; but after you are ad-
vane'd about fifty paces, you find two Ways, one of which is Co narrow,
a Man mult crawl on his Hands and Knees : yet this is prefer'd to the
other, becaufe the latter, tho more fpacious, is extremely rugged and un-
even : both lead to a Chamber form'd by Nature ; adjoining to this Cham-
ber, is a Confervatory of lukewarm Salt-water, in which they fit to
bathe. It is Co exceffive hot in this place, that the Sweat gufhes out in
huge Drops ; this is much better than your artificial Baths, where the
Bread ufually fufFers : thofe who go there only to fweat, fit themfelves
down at the further end of the Chamber in a place fomewhat rais'd.
This natural Stove would be proper for Perfons afflicted with the Pally,
Rheumatifm, or other Fluxions independent of die Secret Difeafe, which
is not to be conquer'd by Sweatings excited by external Remedies : and
yet the Stove we're (peaking of, is frequented by none but old batter'd
Debauchees, who can never be cured without Mercury ; and this is what
brings thefe places very much into difcredit. The Water of the Baths
makes no manner of alteration in the Tincture of Turn-fole : it is nothing
but Sea-water heated; it whitens and coagulates Oil of Tartar; Sea-
water quite cold will do the fame. The Water of thefe Baths naturally
glides away into the Salt-Marfhes fome paces diflant.

BELOW thefe Baths on the (hore, juft by Protothalajfa, we found
bubbling through the Sand variety of little Springs, (b hot as to burn
one's Fingers : having never a Thermometer, nor any other Inftrument
for meafuring the Degree of Heat, a Thought came into my head, to
drop a dozen of Eggs into this Water, to fee iC it would harden 'em in

five

Defcription of the IJland of Milo. 127

five or fix minutes, as common Water will over the fire ; but to our great LetteriV.
furprize we found, that after half an hour's waiting there feem'd to be v-/*^-'
little or no alteration in the Yolk of thofe Eggs. We open'd lome other
of our Eggs an hour after, but they difTer'd very little from the firfl ; nor
indeed after two hours continuing in the Water was there Co much as one
boil'd as it mould be. We obferv'd that fome other which were bury'd
in the Sand, were fufficiently boil'd, and fit for eating : this mews that
there's as much difference between the Warmnefs of Water and that of
Sand, as between the Balneum Maria and the Fire of Sand. This Phe-
nomenon however feem'd to me to be fbmewhat furprizing ; for I remem-
ber'd I had feen, at Fort des Bains in Roufflllon, Soldiers eat Pullets boil'd
in that large fine Conlervatory, built and magnificently arch'd by the
Romans, for preferring a Spring of boiling Water* which gufh'd out in the
high Road. All the Sources of boiling Water which I have met with in
different Countries, feem'd to me to be equally hot, having no other
Thermometer but my Hand ; and I can fafely fay, I did not meet with
any one of them that I could dip my Fingers in without burning me.
They all finoke alike ; yet there is this difference between 'em in relation
to Eggs: in fbme, an Eggfhall not be boil'd in two hours, and in others
four or five minutes will do the bufinefs ; as we obferv'd fbme time after in
thofe of Proufa the Capital of Bithynia, at the foot of Mount Olympus
in Afta. The Sediments or Bottoms of every one of thefe boiling Wa-
ters, feem'd to me to be of the colour of Ruft : which makes me fancy,
that they participate much of a ferruginous Matter.

THIS is no place for fpeaking of the Virtue of hot Waters : all I
fhall fay, is, that a Gentleman of Cepbalonia, being over-run with an in-
veterate Itch, and the ufual Remedies proving ineffectual, was cured by
bathing 25 days in the Waters of Milo ; which were brought to Town by
order of Dr. Stai a Candiot, a Man of Senfe, and a good Phyfician. This
Perfon had better luck than he that Hippocrates tells us of, who after be- Epid. lib, 5,
ing cured of the fame Difeafe as above, by ufing the Milo Waters, be-
came hydropick, and died. A very authentick Proof of the Goodnefs
of the Baths in this Ifland !

THE 1 5 th of Augutt we went to fee the purging Fountain: it is fix
miles off the Town Northward, between St. Conjlantine and Caftro. This

* Spring

128 ^Voyage into the Levant.

Spring rifes on the very edge of the Sea, in a deep place, but it flows on
a level with the Sea-water, and often mixes with it : there is another that
bubbles up, a little beyond it, where the Sea reaches not in cairn Wea-
ther. They are almoft lukewarm, and not at all Salt-tafted, but rather
of a vapid Sweetnefs ; and yet they coagulate Oil of Tartar, tho they
have no effect: in other Trials. In May, when the Sea is low, the Greeks
go and drink of this Water, by way of Purgative ; they fwallow whole
Jugs of it, and after they have voided the grois Dejections, they go on
drinking till it comes out at the Anus as clear as it went in at the Os.
Thus are they purg'd once for the whole Year, as Dogs are by eating the
Herb calfd Dogs-grafs in the Spring.

AFTER we hadvifited the mineral Waters, we went to fee the Alum
Mines, the chief of which are half a league from the Town towards
Sl VeneranAa, : they are at prelent unwrought, for fear of freih Exactions
from the Turks, en account of the Profits that might accrue therefrom.
They made a thoufand Scruples before they would let us lee them ; only
to skrew a little Mony out of us, a common Practice in the Levant for
the leaft Trifles. The Entrance is through a narrow PafTage, which leads
to certain Chambers, or hollow Places, formerly made fo, when they
wrought for Alum : thefe Vaults are four or five foot high, nine or ten
broad, incruftated almoft throughout with Alum, which grows in the
form of flat Stones from nine to fifteen lines thick : as faff as they take
thefe away, there come new ones ; and 'tis plain the Spirit of Salt, which
penetrated thefe Stones, did as it were make 7em exfoliate according to
their refpective Veins. The Solution of this Alum natural and unpre-
pared, is acrid and ftiptick : it ferments and coagulates Oil of Tartar, in
like manner as Alum purify'd, from which it differs in nothing but hav-
ing a greater quantity of ftony Matter. The plumous or feather'd Alum,
which is found there likewife, performs the fame Alterations when try'd:
but neither of 'em emits any urinous Smell, when Oil of Tartar is pour'd

thereon; which allows no room to fufpect there's any mixture of Salt

Ammoniack.
THIS* plumous or feather'd Alum is one of the moft curious things

* So call' J, becaufe inftead of farting into Scales, it rifes in while foft Thrtdt or Filaments, like tht
leathers of a Quill, from whence comes its Name.

in

Defcription of the Ijland of Milo. 1 29

in all the Levant, with refpect to Natural Hiftory. No Traveller, that I Letter IV
know of, has ever given an account of it. It rifes in large Lumps com- *S~Y~^J
pos'd of Threds fine as the foftefl Silk, filver'd over, mining, an inch
and a half or two inches in length, of the fame tafte with the Stone-Alum.
'Tis a vulgar Error, to think the feather'd Alum to be the fame with the
Lapis Amianthus, or incombuftible Stone. Whenever I ask'd for feather'd
Alum, either in frame, Italy, England, or Holland, they always fhew'd
me ? bale fort of Amianthus brought from Caryfio in the Negropont : it is
eafy to break and divide, and of all the kinds of Amianthus is certainly the
mod defpicable ■ but it does not melt or conlume either in Fire or Water,
any more than the Amumhus of Smyrna, Genoa, and the Pyrenees*. T©
make ihort, the Amianthus is a flony infipid SublTance, which fbftens in
Oil, and thereby acquires Supplenels enough to be fpun into Threds : it
makes Puries and Handkerchiefs, which not only refill the Fire, but are
whiten'd and cleans'd in it. The plumous Alum, contrariwile, is a true
Salt, not differing from the common Alum otherwiie than as it is divided
into fmall Strings : the Stones through which this Alum protrudes, are
very light and friabie. From the furthermoit of thele Vaults to the Ca-
vern at the Entrance, we counted, as we cajme back, a hundred paces :
and we were often fore'd to creep on our Bellies from one Vault to
another.

THE Antients were acquainted with all thefe forts of Alum. Pliny Concreti aiu-
declares, that next to the Egyptian Alum, this of Melos was molt in genus schifton
efteem; it being, hes fays, iblid. liquid, and hairy : there cannot, in, my *j>P;„ a^"
opinion, be an aptcr u mpurifbn made of plumous Alum, than this of menta iuadam

1 r r 1 canefi-entia de-

Hairinefs. ' Diojcorides, who likewiie fpoke of it before him, lays, that hifcens ; unde
the Alum of Mdos hinders Women from conceiving ; this may be but a^n^u'sap'"
falfe Oblervation. Yet thole Authors who are commonly look'd upon J^^-
as falle Hiftorians of -Nature, were far better acquainted with thefe Alums w-3^. ^.15.
than any of us. According to J Diodcrus Si cuius, the Antients drew but ' 'H^l>'el*
little Alum from the Ifle we're {peaking of; and they knew of none, but lib-^. cap.I2>
the Mines of Lipara and Melos. ^Biblfoch. Hift.

FOUR miles from the Town, Southward, on the edge of the Sea, in
a very fteep place, is a Grotto about fifteen paces deep, whither the Wa-
ter of the Sea penetrates when it is rough Weather. This Grotto, which
V©1. I. S " is

i go A Voyage into the Levant.

is from fifteen to twenty foot high, is all crufted over with Alum fubli-
mate, white as Snow in fbme places, reddifh in others, and golden-
colour'd like the Chymical Flowers of Salt Ammoniack ; which doubdels
proceeds from fbme mixture of Iron or Oker. All the Rocks round the
Cavern are lin'd with the like Concretions, of which there are a great many
which are only of Salt Marine fublimated, as foft and fine as Peruke-
Powder ; you may fee the holes through which appears the Alum per-
fectly pure, and as it were gritty, but exceflively hot : thefe Concretions
ferment cold with Oil of Tartar.

AMONG thefe Concretions, we difcover'd two forts of Flowers very
white, fine as Silk-Thred : the one aluminous and acrid, the other utter-
ly infipid and ftony. The aluminous Threds are but three or four lines
long, and faften'd to Concretions of Alum ; fb that they differ nothing
from the plumous Alum : but the ftony Threds are longer, a little more
flexible, and iflue from thofe Rocks. 'Tis highly probable this is the
2,;b.5.cap.i2> Stone which Diofcorides compares with the plumous Alum, tho it be, as
he fays, taftelefs and non-aflringent : the fame Author diftinguifhes it from
the Lapis Amianthus. Be that as 'twill, this Concretion fhould feem to be
a Vegetation of the Rock it felf; for there are found parcels of thefe
Threds that have loft their Flexibility, and are become very Stones rbr
hardnefs, and yet the Direction of the Threds not confounded nor ef-
faced : this may furnifh new Lights towards the Knowledge of the Vege-
tation of Stones, which I propos'd in the Hifiory of the Academy Royal of
Sciences. The fame Direction of Fibres appears fenfibly in every Species
of the Amianthus, efpecially in that of the Pyrenees and Smyrna. Thefe
Stones are very hard for a certain fpace of time, and ftriped according to
their length : afterwards they de-compound thernlelves, I can't tell how,
and their Strings or Filaments feparate themfelves from each other in par-
cels, as if they had been glued together at firfl, and now were unglued.
We likewife very fenfibly perceiv'd the fame Direction in the Stone
whence is taken that beautiful Plafter of Spain : this is a very common
Stone in Provence. I have in my poffeffion fbme pieces of Plafter of
Montmartre, where are the like Concretions'.

THE Flexibility of thefe Stones of Milo, which properly fpeaking are
nothing elfe but ftony Embryos, may help to account fot a wonderful

Stone,

Defcription of the IJlcrnd of Milo. 1 3 r

Stone, which M. Lattthier has a long time prefcrvM in his Cabinet : this Letter IV*
Stone, which was very hard, a fort of a brown Free-done, fquare, near ^^^^^
two inches thick, and one foot long, had a certain Flexibility, fo that it
would vifiblybend in your hand, when you held it in the middle in an
Equilibrium, and let it poife even.

SOME paces from this Cavern on the Sea-ihore is another Grotto,
the bottom whereof is fill'd with Sulphur, which is incefTantly burning,
fo as there's no going into it. All the places near are continually fmoking,.
and fometimes caft out Flames of Fire ; there's feen Sulphur perfectly pure?
and a* it were mblimated, which is incefTantly inflamed in certain places :
there are others, from whence diflils drop by drop a Solution of Alum, much
more acrid than that of common Alum ; this Solution is of an almoft cor-
rofive Stipticity, and ferments briskly with Oil of Tartar. According
to appearance, this fhould be that fort of Alum, which Pliny calls liquid
Alum, and which he pofitively affigns to the Ifle of Melos : however,
this kind of Alum was not liquid, as may be feen in Diofcorides. It
feems as if the Liquor which flows from this Grotto fhould be only a
Spirit of Salt, which in Solution contains terrene and aluminous Particles :
this confirms the natural and continual Production of Spirit of Salt, in
the Bowels of this Ifland. They who are troubled with the Itch, go and
fweat in this Grotto ; they gently bathe and foment with this Liquor of
Alum, luch parts of their Skin as are moft affected ; then they wafh
themfelves in Sea-water, and are generally cured without any more ado.

I SHOULD never make an end, were I to defcribe all the various
Caverns of this Ifland. There's not a hole in thefe Rocks, but if you
put your Head down, you'll feel a confiderable Warmth. When the
Corfairs were Maflers of this Ifland, they caus'd to be repair'd an an-
tient Stove, which ftill bears their name. They made in it very con-
venient Rooms, where they would go and fweat fome days together :
this Stove is a natural Cavern, fituated on one fide of the Mountain of
St. Elijah, and heated by the Vapours of fome warm Water like that of
the Baths. 'Tis plain this is no dry Exhalation, becaufe it fupples and
mollifies the Skin, thereby facilitating Tranfpiration : they would be of
great ufe in Rheumatifins and certain Palfies ; but as it is frequented
only by fuch as labour under Venereal Diftempers, moft of 'em, inftead

S 2 of

XJ>(

132 ^Voyage into the Levant

of being better, are the worfe for it ; becaufe only the mod: fubtile part
of the Poifon being carry'd off by Sweating, what remains behind of
that Humour turns fb acrimonious, that it deftroys the Contexture of the
Bones.

AFTER examining the Cavern whence diftils this aluminous Liquor,
A)4t>s Kvel*.- we were led to a Chappel dedicated to St. CyrUcu-s ; not far off it, is a
Spot of Ground that is incelTantly burning, and the Fields about it con-
tinually fraoking ; fome of 'em as yellow as if they were cover'd with
Marigold Flowers : this is owing to the Sulphur, that colours the Earth
fb. The burning Fountain of Dauphine, which more juftly is call'd the
burning Earth, is of the lame nature.

T H O the Air of Milo is very unwholefome, and the Inhabitants fub-

ject to dangerous Diftempers, yet they lead a merry Life : they regale

very cheap ; Partridges are not above a Groat or Five-Pence apiece :

Turtle-Doves, Quails, Wheatears, Wood-Pidgeons, and Ducks, are in

.great plenty ; as likewife good Figs, Melons, and excellent Grapes.

BraflkaGon- Roots of the Cabbage-Kind are not bad ; nor is there any want of deli-

%n. "' C* B' cate Fifti on Faft-days : there are alio very good Oyfters, but thole call'd

' TcuJk&Tri- I red Oyfters are tough as Whit-leather, and intolerably fait ; the Shell-fifh

f6' ,. call'd ' Goats-eyes are perfectly delicious, and bigger than in Provence.

WHEN we were in this Ifland, there raged a terrible Diftemper, not
uncommon in the Levant ; it carries off Children in twice twenty-four
hours. It is a Carbuncle or Plague-Sore in the bottom of the Throat,
attended with a violent Fever ; this Malady, which may be call'd the
Child's Plague, is epidemical, tho it ipares adult People. The beffc
way to check the prcgrefs of it, is to vomit the Child the moment
he complains of a fore Throat, or that he is perceiv'd to grow heavy-
headed : this Remedy muft be repeated according as there's occafion, in
order to evacuate a fort of Aqua-fortis that difcharges it felf on the
Throat. It is necefTary to fiipport the Circulation of the Juices, and the
Strength of the Patient, with fpirituous things ; fiach as Treacle, Spirits
volatile, aromatick, unc~Hous, and the like. The Solution of liquid Styrax
(commonly call'd in Engliflj Storax) in Brandy, is an excellent Garga-
rifhi upon this occafion ; which tho a Cafe that requires the greatefl di£
patch, yet the Levantines are as flow as if 'twere a chronica^ not an

acute

Defcriptlon of the IJland of Milo. 133

acute Diftemper. The Surgeons here arc for the moft part arrant Ignora- Letter IV.

mus's and either French or Italian all of 'em. Yet at Conjlantinople we ^-/"v'^-'

met with an able Surgeon, M. Defchiens, who was bred in the Hotel Dieu

of Parii. Among the Phyficians, M. le Due holds the firft place ; he is

of Fire in Normandy, and pra&ifes Phyfick with great Succefs and Credit.

We were likewife acquainted with another excellent Perfon, who, to the

Practice of Phyfick, of which he has no fmall fhare, has join'd the Study

of Mathematicks and Natural Philofophy ; and this is M. Spoleti, Profef-

for of Padua, who formerly was a Retainer to M. Soranzo the Venetian

AmbafTador.

THE Phyficians, all over the Levant, are generally Jews or Natives
of Candia, old Nurfelings of Padua, who dare purge none but fuch as are
upon the mending hand. The whole Science of the Orientals, in mat-
ter of Diftempers, confifts in giving fat Broths to fuch as are in a Fever,
and in reducing their Diet to next to nothing : that is to lay, for the firft
fifteen or fixteen days of a continual Fever, happen what will, they will
not fuffer the Patient to take any thing but a flender Panade twice a day,
or two Doles of Rice-water; Thefe Panadoes are Bread crumb'd, and
boil'd in Broth not made of Flefli-Meat : they let a certain quantity of
Crumb of Bread foak in warm Water, and then boil this Water till the
Crumb is almoft diflolv'd ; fometimes they add a little Sugar at laft. This
Food agrees better with the Conftitution of Carthusian Monks than Lay-
men, who muft be blooded or purg'd at certain times, in order to prevent
fuch Accidents, as without luch precaution would be the death of 'em.
Thus fares it with thefe poor Greeks, whom the flighteft Fever (with their
way of managing) reduces to Skin and Bones, and they are whole Years
in recovering. Hippocrates, the learnedeft of all the Greek Phyficians,
has reafon good to condemn this outrageous way of Dieting, and pre-
fcribes Purgatives as foon as ever the Symptoms fufficiently appear.

I F the Patient grows light-headed, he is prefently look'd upon as pof- "E%t **e**»r>
fefs'd by the Devil : the Phyficians and Surgeons are ftrait difmifs'd, and
the Papas fent for ; who after they have extoll'd the fage Conduct: of
his Parents, fall to repeating I know not what Prayers, and almoft:
drown the Patient with Holy Water : and fo torment him with Exor-
cifms, that inftead of abating his Delirioufhefs, they add to it. At My-

* cone

A Voyage into the Levant.

cone they calPd us Madmen, for propofmg to the Relations of a Woman
of Quality to have her blooded in the Foot, to fettle her Head. The
Papas were going to ring us a Peal: What could we fay to People that
won't hear Reafon? Not content with fplitting her Brains two or three
days, under pretence of driving the Devil out of her Body nolens z'olens,
they carry'd the poor Woman to Church, and threaten'd to bury her
quick, if ilie did not declare the Name of the Demon that pofTefs'd her ;
could we but" learn his Name, quo' they, we'd loon make him know his
Lord God from Tom Bell. For want of this, they were fadly at a non-
plus, for they knew not how to fpeak to him. The Papas were in a
Muck-fweat upon't, and as uneafy as if they trod upon thorns : at length
the fick Party, whofe Diftemper was a mod malignant Fever, made her
Exit in fuch ftrong Convulfions, as frighten'd every body. The whole
Art of the Papas terminated in making the By-ftanders fenfible of the
Violence of the Conflict between the Devil and the Patient, who for
not making a vigorous Defence, thefe Doctors faid fhould not be bury'd
in confecrated Ground ; and accordingly they carry'd her from the
Church to the Country, whereas others are brought from the Country to
the Church. Whenever any one recovers after fb tragical a Scene, the
People cry a Miracle, and the Papas go for Wonder-workers.

BEFORE we le&Milo, we went to the top of St. Elijah (the high eft
Mountain of the Country) for the pleafure of furveying the adjoining
Iflands ; 'tis one of the fined Views of the Archipelago .• 'twas a glorious

■ imerfufa m- ^ne D^y^ ancj yielded us a fight of an Infinity of Iflands, which glitter

xquoia Cycia- m tne Sea, as ' Horace exprefTes it.

das. Hor.lib.l'
Od. 12.

siphanto. WHEN we were defcended from this Mountain, we embark'd for the

Ifle of Siphanto, which is not above 3 6 miles from Milo. Siphanto retains

its old Name of Siphnos, which Stephens the Geographer derives from one

SI4N02. Siphma the Son of Sun'ton : for before that, it was call'd Merope, according

Hift. Nat. to the fame Author ; and Merapia and Acis, according to Pliny, who makes

1 .4. cap. 12. .^ ^^ ke ^g miles in Circumference, tho 'tis reckon'd at 40.

THE Ifle of Siphanto is in a fine Air : they efpecially think fb, who
arrive there from Milo, where the fulphureous Vapours are perfectly in-
fectious. There are Men at Siphanto 1 20 Years old : the Air, Water,

Fruit,

Defer ipt ion of the IJland of Siphanto. 1 35

Fruit, Wild-Fowl, Poultry, every thing there is excellent ; their Grapes Letter IV;

are wonderful, but the Wines not delicate, and therefore they drink thole ^*

of Milo und Santorin. Tho Siphanto is cover'd over with Marble and

Granate, yet is it one of the molt fertile and beft-improv'd Ifles of the

Archipelago : it fupplies Corn enough for its Inhabitants, who are a good

fort of People. Their Ancestors Morals were very iiandalous. When

any one was upbraided of living like a Siphantine, or keeping his Word like

a Siphantine, it was as much as calling him Rogue ; according to Ste- ^h"''

then s the Geographer, Hefychms, and Suidas. Sty/fa *#*-

THE Inhabitants of Siphanto employ themfelves in improving theirs Suid.
Oils and Capers. The Silk of the Ifland is very good, but they have
not much of it ; there's great demand for their Callicoes. The other
Commerce of Siphanto is in Figs, Onions, Wax, Honey, Selamum ; they
work likewife in Straw-Hats, which are Ibid all over the Archipelago by
the name of Siphanto Caftors. This Ifland, wherein there are above 5000
Souls, wastax'd in 1700, at the rate of 4000 Crowns to the Capitation
and Land-Tax. Befide the' Cattle fituated on a Rock by the Sea-fide, 'PrtbtBurgh.
and perhaps built on the Ruins of the old Apollonia, there are five Vil- AnoAAn-
lages, Artimone, Stavril, Catavati, Xambela, and Petali ; four Convents
of Caloyers, Brici or the Fountain, Stomongoul, St. Chryfofiom, and St. Eli-
jah ; two Convents of Nuns, one containing about 20, and the other 40,
in a place calPd Camarea. Thefe 1 Maidens do not always lead the mod 2 Caloyeres or
regular Lives : ibmetimes they come hither from the Archipelago, to mak.e 3 °swes'
their Vows. There are 500 Cbappels, and 60 Papas, who lay Mais but
once a year, the day of the Dedication of their Chappels.

THE Harbours of the Ifle are Faro, Vati, Kjtriani, Kjroniflo, and
that of the 3 Cattle. Faro has doubtleis preferv'd the Name of an antient ' LaCalanque.
Phare or Light-Houfe, which lerv'd for the Direction of Shipping. Golt-
zim gives us a Medal, where on one fide is reprefented a Tower with a legend.

■», 1 L l. tt i rev • J- a- SI*NOT.

Man at top ; on the other, the Head of Jupiter, according to l\omm \
for my part, I rather take it to be a Head of Neptune. M. Foucault, who
has the bell Collection next the King's, has a Medal of this Ifland ; the Legend.
Type is a Head oiGordiantis Pius, and the Reverfe a Pallas with a Head- Cl*NIflN'
piece on, and darting a Javelin. The Ports of Siphanto were pretty
much frequented about fifty Years fince : one Bafili, a rich Trader of

* this

136

A Voyage into the Levant

this Ifland, and who lies inter'd in the Monaflery of Brici, drew thither
by his Induftry and Ingenuity a great Refort of Ships from Frame and
Venice.

S1PHJNTO, in days of yore, was famed for its rich Gold and Sil-
ver Mines : at prefent they fcarce know the places where thole Mines
were. To mew us one of the principal, they carry'd us to the Sea-
fide near San-Softi, a Chappel half in Ruins ; but we law no more
than the Mouth of the Mine, and we could move no farther becaufe of
the Intricacy and Darknefs of the place. Its Situation did however re-
Defcrip. Gr«c. ca\[ t0 our mind the account Paufanias gives of this matter ; namely, that

Phocic. r 1 1 1 1

Apollo appropriated to himfelf the tenth part of the Gold and Silver
which was got out of the Mines of Siphnos, and that they were deftroy'd
by an Inundation of the Sea, which aveng'd that God for the Contempt
fhewn him by the Inhabitants, in refuting to pay that fort of Tribute.
Lib. 3. Herodotus fpeaks of another Misfortune, which thefe Mines brought upon

this Ifland. Such of the Samians as had declar'd War againft Poljcrates
their Tyrant, finding themfelves forfaken by the Lacedemonians after the
Siege of Samos was rais'd, fled to Siphnos, where they wanted to borrow
ten Talents. Siphnos was at that time the richeft of all the Iflands, yet
they refus'd to comply with the Samians : whereupon thefe lad fell to
plundering the whole Country, and the Inhabitants were forc'd to give
them a hundred Talents by way of Redemption. 'Tis pretended that
the Pythcr/efs had foretold this Difafler : being confuked by the Siphnians
how long their Wealth would hold out, Hie bid 'em beware of a red
EmbalTy at a time when their Town-houfe and Market-place was
white. This Prophecy was, it feems, fulfill'd upon the arrival of the
Samians, whole Ships were painted red, according to the old Cuflrom of
the Infularies who have plenty of Bolus ; and the Town-houfe of Siph-
nos, as well as the Market-place, was faced with white Marble.

BESIDES the Mines aforefaid, they have plenty of Lead : the Rains
make a plain difcovery of this, go almofl where you will throughout the
whole Ifland. The Oar is greyifh, fleek, and yields a Lead like Pew-
ter. This Lead, which is a fort of natural Cerufe, eafily vitrifies ; and
• Hift Nat ' ma^es trie Seething-pots of the Ifland exceeding good. ' Theopbraf-
jib.36. cnp.22. tf#y ' Plii/j, 5 ljUorusy write, that at Siphnos they uled to carve out of a

On'g. lib. 16.

<ap. 4. certain

Defcription of the I/land of Siphanto. 137

certain foft Stone, a fort of Pots to boil Meat in ; and that thefe Pots Letter IV.
would turn black, and grow very hard, by being fcalded in boiling Oil : v-/"^r^-'
the Drinkins-Cups that uled to be made here, were likewife much in 2'>«" n*r»-

0 r e<ev. Steph.

requeft.

ABOUT fifty Years ago there came to Siphanto fame Jews, by order
of the Porte, to examine into the Lead-Mines ; but the Burghers fearing
they fhould be conftrain'd to work 'em, bribed the Captain of the Galliot
that had brought over thofe Jems, to fink hisVeflel, which according-
ly he did by boring holes in it while the Jews were aboard, with a
Cargo of Oar confign'd to Thejfalonica. This Officer laved himlelf in
hisChaloupe, the reft went to the bottom. After this, fome other Jews
came over on the like Errand, but made no better a hand on't. The
Siphantines, to get rid of 'em at once, gave a Sum of Mony to a Corfair
of Provence, who was at Milo, and who cannonaded a fecond Galliot
laden with Jews and Lead-Oar : fb that the Turks and Jews both gave over
their Enterprize.

THE Turks did not dare to appear much abroad in thefe Mauds before
the departure of the French Privateers, who would often go and take 'em
by the beard, and away with 'em on board Ship, where they made Slaves
of 'em. Our Privateers have been fometimes more fuccefsful in the Pre-
fervation of Chriftianity, than the molt zealous Miflionaries : witnefs the
following Example. Some Years ago, ten or a dozen Families of Naxos
embrac'd the Mahometan Religion : the Chriftians of the Latin Commu-
nion got 'em fnapt up by the Privateers, who carry'd 'em to Malta. Since
which, no one has thought it worth while to turn Mahometan at Naxos.
The famoufeft Corfairs of the Archipelago had nothing odious but the
Name of Corfair. They were Men of Quality and diftinguilh'd Valour,
who only follow'd the Mode of the Times they liv'd in. Did not Mef-
fieurs de Valbelle, Gardane, Qolongue, come to be Captains and Flag-Offi-
cers of the King's Fleet, after they had cruis'd upon the Infidels? How
many Knights of Malta do we fee fupporting in the Levant the Chriftian
Name, under the Banner of Religion ? Thefe Gentlemen minifter Juftice
to fuch as addrefs themfelves to 'em. If a Greek infults a Chriftian of the
Latin Communion, the latter need but complain to the firft Captain that
puts into that Port ; the Greek is fent for, taken up if he refuies to pay
Vol. I. T# obV

138

XTVttOfMVIMV

A Voyage into the Levant.

obedience, and baftinado'd if he has done amifs. The Captains put an end
to Suits of Law, without Lawyers or Attorneys. The Evidence is carry'd
on board Ship, and the Party againft whom the Tryal goes, is fentenc'd
to make fatisfa&ion either in Mony or dry Blows : All this is done gratis
by the Judges, without Fee or Reward, unlefs perhaps a Hogfliead of
Wine or a good fat Calf.

W E faid before, that the Bifliop of Milo was Biihop of Siphanto : he
has but one Vicar there, and his Church is very poor. The Greek Arch-
bilhop is rich ; for he is Spiritual Lord of the Ifles of Nanfio, Poticaxdro,
Nio, Serf ho, My cone, Sikino, Stampalia, and Amorgos.

THE Ladies of Siphanto, to preferve their Beauty, when they're in
the Country, cover their Face with Linen Bandages ; which they roll fo
artfully, that you can fee nothing but their Mouth, Nofe, and White of
their Eyes. You may be fure they have no very conquering Air in luch
a Difguife, but rather look like fo many walking Mummies : and accor-
dingly they are more careful to avoid Strangers, than thofe of Milo and
Argent iere are eager to meet them.

THE Antiquities of the Ifland have met with very ill Treatment.
Going from the Port to the Cattle, near a Well on the left hand of the
Road, there's an antique Tomb-ftone, which ferves for a Hog-trough \
it is Marble, a noble Defign, fix foot eight inches long, two foot eight
inches broad, two foot four inches in height; it is adorn'd with Acanthus-
Leaves, Pine-Apples, and other Fruit. Jufl by this Monument is ano-
ther piece of Marble mortis'd into the Wall, and which was the Fragment
of fbme other Tomb-ftone.

SOME paces farther, at the foot of a Hill, juft by the Ruins of an
eld Temple, which may have been that of the God Pan, antiently ador'd
in that Town, there's ftill to be feen a Marble Tomb-ftone eight foot
long, three foot four inches deep, two foot eight inches broad ; but the
Ornaments mere Baubles : Children holding up Feftoons, from whence
there hangs a huge Bunch of Grapes. The Fore-part of another fuch-
like Tomb-ftone is fix'd into the Front of a Houfe in the principal Street
in the Burrough : this has an Infcription, but fo blind as not to be read,
unlefs it be part of a word, b a 2 1 a e.

% AT

7)efcription of the IJland ofSiphanto. 139

AT the Monaftery of Brici, contiguous to a fine Spring, there's a Letter IV.
Tomb-ftone of Marble, ferving to a very different purpofe from that it 1^-*"v"^»
was defign'd for, it being turn'd into a Ciftern to water Cattel at : this
Tomb-ftone is but three foot eight inches long ; but tho the Ornaments
of it are deftroy'd, yet Time has fpar'd the three Children in the Fore-
part, which Figures mew that the reft was done by an excellent Hand.

OVER the City-Gate that opens to the Port, are fbme Fragments of
two Marble Figures of an indifferent Beauty, one naked, the other cloth'd.
At the corner of a fort of fquare Tower on the left hand of the Caftle-
Gate, is a Bas-Relief of Marble, which is taken to be the Hiftory of -
Tobit : I rather think it the Remainder of fome Tomb-ftone. In the fame
Wall there's the Head and Breaft of a Lion.

ON an o&ogon Pillar of Marble, near the Caftle-Gate, is to be read
in Gothick Characters, M CCC LXV MI SLCE. Tandoly de Coronia.
This Lord, we were told by the principal Men of the Ifland, was of Bo-
lonia in Italy, Father to Otuly de Corogna, who gave his only Daughter in
Marriage to Angelo Gozadini, Lord of Siphanto and Thermia. Siphanto had
been difinembred from the Dutchy of Naxos ; for 'tis certain that Marco Sa- Hiftory of th<s
nudo made a Conqueft of it, and annex'd it to this Dutchy under Henry II. 5«Afr5!ijc
Latin Emperor of Confiantinople. We faw at the Houfe of the Vicar of the
Latin Church, the Inftrument by which Otuly de Corogna fettled an Eftate
in 1 46 2, for the benefit of the Church in the Caftle. The Family of the
Gozadini were in pofieffion of Siphanto till Barbaroffa made himfelf mafter
of it under Solyman II. This Family is at prefent reduc'd to three Bro-
thers, who are confin'd to their Beds almoft all the Year round ; one by
the Gout, another by a grievous Rheumatifm, and the youngeft by a
Palfy. The Wife of M. Guidn, the French Conful at Siphanto, is of this
Noble Family : this Conful, who is a learned Perfon, and fpeaks many
Languages, preferves the Seal of Angelo Gozadini} by which it appears he
was Lord of Siphanto and Thermia. He allured us, that the publick Foun-
tain which is at the further end of this Valley leading to the Port, was a
Work of the remoteft Antiquity, and came out of an Alley cut in the
Rock above a mile deep.

T 2 BEING

i 4.0 ^Voyage into the Levant.

Serpho, tn BEING fb near the Ifle of Serpbo. we had the curiofity to 20 thither*

■vulgar Greek. ' J °

serphanto tis but twelve miles from Srpbanto, reckoning from Cape to Cape; but
no, <» Italian. '^ twice as inuch from the Caftle of S/phanto, whence we fet out the
TrkmlSme 24ch ofJuguffj to that of Serpbo. ' Pliny allows this Ifland but a Circuit
of the ifle. of 1 2 miles ; but 'tis certainly 36.

iib"JaP?i2. THE Mountains of Serpbo are fo rugged and fleep, that the Poets
feign'd that Perfetis transform'd into Stone the very Natives of the Place.
Rer. Geog. Strabo fays, and they who pleafe may believe it, that on this Coaft was
Apoiio'd. Bib- finVd up a Cheft, wherein Jcrifius had fhut up Perfeus and his Mother
Loth. 1.2. c. 4. i)mae^ Polydectes, who reign'd in this Ifland, would have oblig'd him to
bus Perfeus ait, marry her; and his Subje&s joining in the fame, Perfeus, who had
ore Medlfeo brought Medufa's Head along with him, tum'd them into Stone. There's
filicem fine great likelihood that the Iron and Load-Hone Mines of this Ifland were

fanguine fecit. °

ovid. Metam. not known at that time ; for otherwiie they had certainly attributed the
Production of thefe likewife to the Power of the Gorgon. Thefe Mines
lie very mallow in the Earth ; they are laid open every day by the Rain.
The Iron Mineral is feeded with Stars in feveral places, like the Regulus
' 'h k«**« StelUtus of Antimony. Thofe of the ' Load-ftone are very plentiful ;
hLn" but if a Man would have good pieces, he mud dig deep, which is very

difficult in a Country where amidft Co much Iron they have fcarce Tools
fit to turn up the Onions, which they cultivate among their Rocks in
little moifl Bottoms : thele Onions are very fweet, whereas the Onions of
SiphantOy which are not water'd, are as four as thofe of Provence ; but let
M. Spon fay what he will of them, the Onions of the Levant are not
better than fbme about Parti. In fhort, the Inhabitants of Serpbo are Co
proud of their Onions, that it never once enters into their pates to
catch the Partridges that devour half their Corn and Grapes. There is
in this Ifland but one Burrough, that bears the fame name, and a poor
•£««»« n<nt beggarly Hamlet call'd St. Nicolp. The Burrough incircles a hideous
^rVcyi? frightful Rock, three miles from the Port, which is a very handfome one
Per,p1, and ferves only for a Retreat to fuch Ships as happen to be put out of

their way by tempeftuous Weather : the Inhabitants are as arrant Drones,
contra Ceif. and as contemptible as their Forefathers. Origen being minded to let
l ' Celfus know how ridiculous it was to reproach our Saviour's Birth, tells

* him;

Defcription of the I/land of Serpho. 141

him, that even tho he had been born in the Ifland of Seriphus, even tho Letter IV.
he had been born of the very Scum of the Seriphixns, yet it muft be ^^ms^m^J
granted that he made more noiie in the World than the Themijlodes's, the
Plato's, the Pythagoras'' s, than the wifelt Greeks, than their greateft Kings
and Generals;

THE Inhabitants of Serpho pay but 800 Crowns to the Capitation
and Land-Tax : accordingly their Crop of Barley and Vintage is but fmall.
The belt Lands belong to the Monks of St. Michael the Archangel, whofe 4™*™ *!
Convent is Northward near the Sea, within fight of Thermia and Serpho- raijUfjc*-
poula, a bafe Rock, where thefe Monks breed their Goats and Swine,
under the infpecTion Of a Caloyer. Altho in the vulgar Greek the word
Poula fignifies little, yet there's no probability that ' Ovid and 2 Juvenal ' Te tame" 6
meant Serphopoula, under the name of Parva Seriphus ; for this Rock, Poiydefta Se-
which is not a mile in compafs, was never inhabited. 3 Origen and thofe \b,d.'
Authors call it Serpho, a fmall Ifland, became in fact it is no more than ' Ut Gyar*
36 miles in circuit. Here it was Poly defies reign'd ; and here are flill to pamqae.Ie-
be feen thofe dreadful Rocks, on which the Fable of Perfeus was grounded, "j^nf***

EVE RY Inhabitant of this Ifland is of the Greek Communion : the J Minima &
Cadi is itinerant, as well as h| of Stphanto. The Waivod of Serpho, a f2\z^™
Turk of Negropontus, to whom we were recommended by M. Guion, gave ibid-
us a hearty Welcome, and earneftly invited us to fee the Gretks dance at
la Madona de la Mafferia, which is the prettieft Chappel in the Ifland. It
is certain the Greeks have not abfolutely loft that Jocularity, nor that
.Genius for Satire, which fhone fo conlpicuous in their Anceftors ; they
are every day making very witty Ballads : nor is there any manner of
Pofture they do not put themfelves into, when they dance. The Feaft
feem'd to us to be fomewhat fcandalous, and much more tedious, in re-
gard it lafted all the night : far from languifhing after the Fair Ones of
the Country, we were impatient to be going to the Ifle of Thermia, which
is not above twelve miles from Serpho ; buton the morrow there role lb
flrong a Wind North, that we durft not venture out.

WE mull not look for Antiquities in Serpho: it is a place that never
was either powerful or magnificent, tho its Port made it recommendable,
even in the time when Greece was illuftrious. According to Herodotus, Lib. 8,
the Inhabitants of Seriphos, Siphnos, and Melos, were the only Iflanders

that

142 A Voyage into the Levant.

that refiis'd to admit Xerxes^s Troops and Fleet, when that Prince aiming
-at the Conquefl of Greece, would fain have fecur'd fuch as fided with him.
Herodotus deduces the Miliotes from the Lacedemonians, and thofe of Siphnos
and Seriphos from the Athenians, who took the name of lonians from one of
their Generals, Ion the Son ofXuthus. After the Battel ofArtemi/ium, where-
in 'twas a meafuring Call as to the Advantages gain'd either by the Greeks or
Per fans, the Athenians juftly anxious for the Prefervation of their City, fent

I Colomi. away their Wives and Children into the Ifle of ' Salamis, and made fuch
ftrenuous Inftances to the other People of Greece, that they prevail'd to
have a common Fleet afTembled round this Ifland. The Inhabitants of
Melos lent thither two Gallies, thofe of Seriphos and Siphnos the fame.
THE Romans look'd on Seriphos as a place fit to make enormous Of-

in faxo Sen- fenders die of the Spleen. Augufttts banifh'd to this place the Orator

phio confenuit.

Tacit. Ub.\. CaJJius Severus, who could not be cured of giving foul Language by
Annai. c 21. feventeen Years Banifhment into Crete. Vefitlia the Wife of Labeon, con-
Gr. & Lat. ' vi&ed of Adultery, was likewife banifh'd thither : and Stratonicus found
£j 15.8' , this place fb very uneafy, that he one day ask'd his Hoft, what fort of
Exii. Offence was punifh'd with Banifliment in his Country : Perjury, faid the

Hoft. Why doft not thou forfwear tia felf then, cry'd Stratonict/s, to
be difmifs'd from this curfed place ?

THE greatefl pleafure we took in this Ifland, was to hear the Frogs
Hift. Nat. croaking in the Marines round the Port. Pliny and Elian fay, they were
lib ^"ap-V- mute in Serphos ; and recover'd their Voice again, if tranfported elfewhere :
this Race of mute Frogs muft needs be loft. Hermolaus Barbaras has re-
flor'd the PafTage in Pliny where this Fad is reported : for in the antient
Copies it is Grafs-hoppers, not Frogs. Theophrajlus, fays Elian, does not
pretend it was Jupiter who flruck the Frogs of Seriphos mute, at the de-
fire of Perfeus, who could not fleep for their noife : that Philofbpher
refers the Caufe of it to the Chillnefs of the Water there. We roam'd
all about this Marfh in fearch of Plants ; and we found the Water as it
were lukewarm. However, this falfe Obfervation concerning the Frogs
of Seriphos, gave occafion to the Proverb quoted by Stephens the Geo-
grapher and Suidas, Such a, one is a Frog of Seriphos ; that is, he's a Fool,
and can't fpeak.

NEXT

/.V. J .

3>sij.J4.3 .

Defcription of the IJland of Serpho. 143

NEXT to the Mines of Load-ftone, the molt curious thing in the Letter IV*
Ifle of Serpbusy relating to Natural Hiftory, is a fort of Clove- jf7//j-Flower ; ^"W^
the Trunk whereof comes up like a Shrub, in the Chinks of thofe hor-
rible Rocks which are above the Town. This Plant has not chang'd,
tho raisM from the Seed, and cultivated in the Royal Garden at Taris>
where it maintains the Honours of Greece, amidft an infinite number of
fcarce Plants come from the fame Country.. ,-.

ITS Root is thick as a Man's Thumb, covered over with a Bark, caryophyiiu.

' ' Graecus, arbcr-

brown, hard, ligneous^ divided into feveral other Roots ibmewhat hairy : reus, Leucoii
it pafnes through the Chinks of the Rocks a crooked Trunk, two foot £.' cT"u*/.
high, about two inches thick, brittle, hard, dingy-colour'd within, cloth'd R»Hfr*-23»
with a Bark blackifh, chapt, rugged, and as it were adorn'd with fbme
Ringlets : this Trunk likewife produces feveral Stalks, all branchy and
brown, except towards the top, where the young Buds are of a fea-green,
garnifh'd with Leaves of the fame colour, an inch long, three or four
lines broad, obtufe at the point, oppofite two by two, brittle, bufhy,
bitter as Gall. Thefe Buds extend the length of half a foot, laden with
Leaves like the former, but narrower, and ufually fupport a fingle Flower,
fometime* a pretty large Clutter : each Flower confills of five Leaves, an
inch and a half long, which run not above half an inch out of the Cup,
rounded, indented like a Cock's Comb, giidelin, ftriped with Veins darker
towards their Bafe, the other Stripes a deep purple. The Tail of thefe
Leaves is narrow, white, and inclos'd in the Cup : this Cup is a Pipe
an inch long, a line in diameter, fbmewhat puffy toward the bottom,
where it is accompany'd wish another Cup, with many Scales pointed,
and lying one on another : from the bottom of the grand Cup rife flender
white Threds or Chieves, each charg'd with a gridelin Summit. The
Piftile or Pointal is but five lines long, cylindrical, pale green, terminating
in two white Horns, which mrmount the Threds. When the Flower is
gone, this Piftile becomes a fort of Cod or Shell, reddiih when 'tis ripe,
fwelling toward the middle ; at the point it opens into five parts, and dif-
plays the Seeds ; black, flat, flender, white within, fome oval, others cir-
cular, faften'd to finall Threds, which from the Body of the Placenta
convey to them the nutritious Juice.

I am. My Lord, &c.

LET-

( H4- )

LETTE R V.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.

My Lord,
Dcfcriftion of M^Ma, H O Auturnn is a very agreeable Seafon in the Jichipelaeo, yet

the I/lands of ipHZnlSS , „, ,.,,.- n. r ■>* f

Amiparos, Pa- fsf'-T p the Sky, which began to be overcalt, ieemd to threaten us
NaxiaT^ fatllll witn Storms and Tempefts ; which were what we fear'd more
than any other Adventure whatever : and as Storms do general-
ly^ follow the Change of Seafons, the Apprehenfion of the Rains which
conftantly fall in the Levant ax. the beginning of September, put us upon
making more difpatch than we mould have done at another time. Our
Defign was, if pofllble, to fee the whole Archipelago ; and fince our De-
parture from Candia, we had as yet been at no more than four Iflands of
it. We let out therefore from Serpbo for Siphanto, and embark'd for the
Ifland A/itiparos, which is eighteen miles diflant from it.
Aktiparos. - '--A NT1PA ROS -isa Rock about fixteen miles in circuit, flat, well-
stfph^02' cultivated, and produces as much Barley as ferves fixty or feventy Fami-
fiAEApos, lies, inhabiting a fbrry Village a mile from the Sea, who pay 700 Crowns
Oliaros, for their Land-Tax, and 500 Crowns Capitation, tho all their Trade lies
in a little Wine and Cotton. Every Year they chufe two Confuls, fbme-
timesbutone, who has ten Crowns for taking care of the Affairs of the
Ifland. In Spiritual Matters, it depends upon the Greek Archbifhop of
Aaxia ; but he has very bad Parifhioners, for the greateft part of the In-
habitants of the Ifland are French and Maltefe Corlairs, \vfho are neither
Greeks nor Latins.

THE

Defcription of the Ijland of Antiparos. 14.5

THE beft Eftate in the Ifland belongs to the Monaftery of Brici at Letter V.
Siphanto, which fends two Caloyers to gather in the Harveft : it brought "^^v***-*
in a confiderable Revenue, before the Venetians burnt its Olive-Trees ; but
they did not fpare the very Joyfts of the Houles in thofe places where
their Fleet winter'd during the Candian War. As to Good Cheer, the
People know not what it means, except in Fifli ; for Butchers Meat is
often impofiible to be had: they have neither Hares nor Partridges, but
only Rabbits and wild Pigeons. The Confirmation was fo great there
when we arrived, that they had not left fo much as a Table-Cloth or a
Napkin in their Houfes • but had buryM every thing in the Fields at fight
of the Turktflf Army, which was exa&ing the Capitation. It mud be
confefs'd, the Cudgel of the Turks has very great Vertues, the whole -**« Falaque.
Ifland trembles at the lead mention of the Baftinade : the Beft among them
dare not mew themfelves but in the moft humble pofture, their Heads
cover'd with a dirty Cap ; and moft of them, to avoid fo great a fhame,
hide themfelves in Caves. The Turks, who fufpect that the moft valuable
of their Goods are conceal'd, baftinade the Officers that are upon Duty,
and this Ceremony continues till their Wives have brought out their own
Ornaments and thofe of their Neighbours. We may eafily conceive what
Lamentations attend thefe Proceedings : oftentimes the Turks, after
having feiz'd all their Jewels and other Finery, will throw the Husbands,
Wives, and Children into Irons.

THE Port of Antiparos is navigable only for frnall Barks and Tar-
tanes ; but in the middle of the Canal, between this Ifland and that of
Paros, there is depth for the biggeft Veffels : this Canal, which is no more
than a mile broad between" the Rocks ofStrongilo and Defpotico, which are
fituated a little on one fide of its Opening, is full of other fmall Rocks
that have no names.

THIS Ifland, as defpicable as it appears, has in it one of the greateft
Rarities that perhaps is in Nature, and which proves one of the impoxrant
Truths of Philofophy, to wit, the Vegetation of Stones. We were re-
folv'd to be fatisfy'd ocularly of it, and therefore went to the fpot, that
we might be able to philofophize thereon with greater certainty. Thi
admirable place is four miles from the Village, about a mile and a half
Vol. I. U from

ia.6 A Voyage into the Levant.

from the Sea, in fight of the Iflauds Nio, Sikino, and Policandro, which
are but 35 or 40 miles diftant.

A ROUGH Cavern is the firft Object that offers it felf to you,
about thirty paces broad, vaulted in a kind of Arch, and inclofed with
a Court made by the Shepherds : this place is divided into two by fbme
natural Pillars, on the biggeft whereof, which looks like a Tower fix'd
into the top of the Cavern, there is feen an Infcription very antient and
very broken : it mentions fome proper Names, which the Natives, by I
know not what Tradition, fuppofe to be the Names of the Confpirators
againft Alexander the Great ; who after having faiPd in their Defign, took
refuge in this place, .as the lafeft they could think of.

AMONG thefe Names, there is only that of Antipater that can fa-
Bibiioth. Hift. your the Tradition of the Greeks : for Diodorus Siculus relates, that fome

«b. 17.

Hiftorians accufed Antipater of Alexander's Death. Every body knows
that that Prince left Antipater Regent in Europe, when he fet out for the
Conqueft of Perfia ; but that Minifler, enraged at the ill Offices done him
by Olympias with his- Mafter, was fufpected of having caus'd him to be poi-
fbn'd by his Son, who was one of the King's Cup-bearers: however whether
that Sufpicion was well or ill grounded, Diodorus takes notice that Anti-
pater neverthelefs retain'd part of his Authority after Alexanders Death :
fo far was he from having occafion to fly to this Ifland for Concealment.

W E could read only part of the Infcription ; but it was communicated
to us quite intire by a Citizen of the place, who keeps a Copy of it :
he affiired us, that it had been decypher'd by a more learned Man than us,
who pafs'd through Antiparos fome years fince. Thefe are the Contents
of the Infcription :

Enl UNDER

kpitcnos The Magiftracy of Crito,
oiAEHAeoN Game to this place,

MENANAPOS Menander,

SOxapmos Socarmus,

Menekaths Menecrates,

ANTiriATpos Antipater,

in n o m h a n n Ippomedon,

Arifteas,

Tkfcription of the I/land of Antiparos.

API2TEAS

ArifleaSy

* IAE AS

Phileafy

ropros

GorgtUj

Al OTENH2

Diogenes^

*I AOKPAT H2

Philocrates,

ONES I MOS

Onejimus.

PERHAPS they are the Names of the Inhabitants of the Ifland,
who in the Magiftracy of Crito were the firft that ventured to delcend
into the Grotto, to take a view of it;

BENEATH this Infcription is a long fquarifh hole, in which was
formerly flx'd a piece of Marble that now lies not far from it, but which
is not very antient, as appears by a Figure of the Crofs : 'tis a BafTb-
Relievo done in the time of the Chriftians, fb ill handled, that you can
make nothing of it ; and if we may judge by Appearances, it was never
thought worth carrying away. On the left hand, at the bottom of a
Rock cut into an inclining Plain, is to be feen another Greek Infcription
more worn than the former.

BETWEEN the two Pillars that are on the right hand, is a little
Platform gently Hoping, feparated from the innermofl part of the Cavern
by a low Wall : in this place was graved fome years ago, at the foot of
a Rock that is pretty flat, the following words :

HOC ANTRUM EX NATUR/E MIRACULIS RA-
RISSIMUM UNA CUM COMITATU RECESSIBUS
EJUSDEM PROFUNDIORIBUS ET ABDITIORIBUS
PENETRATIS SUS PICIEB AT ET SATIS SUSPICI
NON POSSE EXISTIMABAT CAR. FRAN. OLIER
DE NOINTEL IMP. GALLIARUM LEGATUS. DIE
NAT. CHR. QJJO CONSECRATUM FUIT. AN.
MDC LXXIII.

YOU afterwards go forward to the bottom of the Cavern by a
greater Defcent of about twenty paces long : this is the PafTage into the
Grotto, and this PafTage is only a very dark Hole, in which you cannot
walk upright, nor without the help of Torches. Firft, you go down a

U 2 frightful

14.8 ^Voyage into the Levant

frightful Precipice by means of a Rope, which you take care to fatten at
the very Entrance. From the bottom of this Precipice you Hide down
into another much more terrible, the fides very flippery, and deep Abyf-
les on the left hand : they place a Ladder afide of thefe Abyffes, and by
its means we tremblingly got down a Rock that was perfectly perpendi-
cular. We continu'd to make our way through places fbmewhat lefs
dangerous ; but when we thought our felves upon flue ground, the mod
frightful Leap of all flopt us fliort, and we had infallibly broken our necks,
had we not had notice, and been kept back by our Guides. There is
ftill the Remains of a Ladder, which M. de Nointd had placed there :
but as it is noW grown rotten, our Guides had taken care to bring ano-
ther brand-new. To get down here, we were forced to flide on our backs
along a great Rock ; and without the aiTIftance of another Rope, we had
fallen down into horrible Quagmires.

WHEN we were come to the bottom of the Ladder, we again rolled
for fbme time over Rocks, fometimes on our backs, fometimes on 01
bellies, according as we found moft eafe ; and after all thefe Fatigues, we at
length enter'd into that admirable Grotto, which M. de Nointel had juft rea-
fon to fay he could never fufficiently admire. The People that conductec
us, reckonM it 1 50 fathom deep from the Cavern to the Altar mark'd A. anc
as many more from that Altar to the deepeft place you can go down into.
The bottom of this Grotto on the left hand is very rugged : on the
right it is pretty even, and this way it is that you go to the Altar. Fror
this place the Grotto appears to be about forty fathom high, and fiftj
broad : the Roof of it is a pretty good Arch, in feveral places rifins
out into large round knobs, fome bridling with points like the Bol
of Jupiter, others regularly dinted, from whence hang Grapes, Fei-
toons, and Lances of afurprizing length. On the right and left arena
tural Curtains, that ftretch out every way, and form on the fides a fbi
of channelPd Spires or Towers, for the moft part hollow, like fb man]
little Clofets all round the Grotto. Among thefe Cabinets, one large
Pavilion (B) is particularly diftinguifhable ; it is form'd by Productions
that fo exactly reprefent the Roots, Branches, and Heads of Colly-
Flowers, that one would think Nature meant by this to mew us how fhe
operates in the Vegetation of Stones. All thefe Figures are of white

Marble

i49

Letter V;

•

r

Defcription of the Ifland of Antiparos. 149

Marble, traofoarent, chryftalliz'd, and generally break aflant and in difre- Letter Vl
rent Beds, like the Judaick Stone. Moft of thefe pieces even are cover'd
with a white Bark, and being ftricken upon, will found like Copper.

ON the left, a little beyond the Entry (C) of the Grotto, rile three
or four Pillars (D) or Columns of Marble, planted like Stumps of Trees
on the tuft of a little Rock. The higheft of thefe Stumps is fix foot
eight inches, and one foot diameter, almoft cylindrical, and of equal
thickneis, except in fome places, where it is as it were wavy ; it is
rounded at the top, and Hands in the middle of the others. The firft of
thefe Pillars is double, and nor above four foot high. There are on the
fame Rock fome other budding Pillars, that look like the Stumps of
Horns; I examin'd one which was pretty large, and that probably might
be broken in 1A.de NointePs time: it exactly represents the Stump of a.
Tree cut down \ the middle, which is like the ligneous Body of the Tree,
is a brown Marble approaching to an iron-grey, about three inches broad,
furrounded by divers Circles of different colours, or rather by fo many
old Saps, diftinguifh'd from each other by fix eoncentrick Circles, about
two or three lines thick, whofe Fibres run from the Center to the Circum-
ference. Thefe Stems of Marble muft certainly vegetate ; for befides that
not one fingle Drop of Water ever falls into this place, it would not be
conceivable, if they did, how a few Drops falling from a height of 25 or 50
fathom, could form cylindrical pieces, terminating like round Caps, and
always of the fame regularity : a Drop of Water would much rather diili-
pate in the fall ; it is certain that none diftils through into this Grotto, as
it does into common fubterranean Cavities. All that we could find here
of this nature, was fbme few indented Sheets of Stone, the points of
which let fall a pearly Drop of Water very clear and very infipid, which
no doubt was forin'd by the Humidity of the Air, which in fuch a place
mufl condenfe into Water, as it does in Apartments lined with Marble.

IN the furthermoft part of the Grotto to the left, appears a Pyramid
much more furprizing, which ever fince M. de Nointel caus'd Mafs to be
celebrated here in 167 j, has been calfd the Altar (A). This piece ftands
by it felf, quite feparate from the reft ; it is 24 foot high, fomewhat like
a Tiara, adornM with feveral Chapiters fluted length-ways, and fuftain'd
on their feet, of a dazling whitenefs, as is all the reft of the Grotto.

This

i£o ^Voyage into the Levant.

This Pyramid is perhaps the fined Plant of Marble that is in the world:
the Ornaments with which it is cover'd, are all in the fhape of Colly-
flowers ; that is to lay, terminating in large Bunches, more mafterly de-
fcribed than if a Sculptor had juft given them the finifhing Touch. Once
again I repeat it, 'tis impoilible this fhould be done by the Droppings of
Water, as is pretended by thofe who go about to explain the Formation
of Congelations in Grottos. It is much more probable, that thefe other
Congelations we fpeak of, and which hang downwards, or rife out diffe-
rent ways, were produced by our Principle, namely, Vegetation.

AT the foot of the Altar are two Half-Columns, on which we placed
Flambeaux to illuminate the Grotto, that we might view it more nar-
rowly. M. de Nointel caus'd them to be broken ofTJ toferveas a Table
for the Celebration of midnight Mafe. Upon the Balls of the Pyramid,
the following Words were carv'd by his Order :

HIC IPSE CHRISTUS ADFUIT
EJUS NATALI DIE MEDIA NOCTE CELEBRATO

M D C L X X 1 1 1.

I N order to go round the Pyramid, you pals under a great Mafs or
Cabinet of Congelations, the backfide of which is hollow like the Roof
of an Oven : the Door into it is low ; but the Drapery of the fides is
Tapeftry of great beauty, whiter than Alablafler : we broke off fome
bits of it, and the infide look'd like candy'd Lemon-peel. From the
top of the Roof, juft over the Pyramid, hang Feftoons of an extraordi-
nary length, which form as it were the Attick of the Altar.

MONSIEUR theMarquifs^ Nointel, AmbalTador of France to the
Porte, pafs'd the three Chrifimas Holydays in this Grotto, accompany'd
by above five hundred Perfons, as well his own Domefticks, as Merchants,
Corfairs, or Natives, that were curious to follow him. A hundred large
Torches of yellow Wax, and four hundred Lamps that burnt night and
day were fb well placed, that no Church was ever better illuminated.
Men were pofled from fpace to fpace, in every Precipice from the Altar
to the opening (C) of the Cavern, who gave the fignal with their Hand-
kerchiefs, when the Body of J. C. was lifted up; at this fignal fire was

put

Defcription of the I/land of Antiparos. 1 5 1

put to 24 Drakes, and to feveral Patcreroes that were at the Entrance of Letter V.
the Cavern: the Trumpets, Hautbois, Fifes, and Violins, made the Con-v">"
fecration yet more magnificent. The Ambaflador lay in the night almoft
oppofite to the Altar, in a Cabinet feven or eight foot long, naturally cut
in one of thofe large Spires which we mentiou'd before. On one fide of
this Spire is a hole that is an Entrance into another Cavern, but no body*
durft go down into it.

THEY were very much perplex'd to bring Water from the Village to
ferve fo many People. The Capuchins, that were his Excellency's Chap-
lains, were not in pofTeflion of the Rod of Mofes. After much fearching
they found a Spring to the left of the Afcent ; it is a little Cavern, in the-
hollow of the Rock, that ferves as a Receptacle to the Water.

M. DE NOINTEL was the Man that renew'd the Memory of this
Grotto. The Natives themfelves durft not go down into it before he
came to Antiparos ; he encouraged them by LargefTes. The Corfairs of-
fer'd to accompany any that would ihew them the way : thole Gentlemen
thought nothing difficult that might be a means of making their court to
his Excellency, who was a pailionate Lover of luch Curiofities, and elpe-
cially of any thing antique. Perhaps upon the credit of the Infcription'
we have inferted above, he imagin'd lome precious Monument might be
found there. He carry'd with him two very skilful Draughts-men, and
three or four Mafons with Utenfils that would loofen and lift away the-
moft lumberfbme pieces of Marble. Never did AmbaiTador return from,
the Levant with fo many fine things : and by good-fortune molt of thele
pieces of Marble are in the hands of M. Baudelot of the Academy Royal
of Infcriptions and Medals ; they were referv'd for a Perfon of his Merit.

I HAVE but one word more to fay of the Grotto of Antipater ; fo
they call a little Cavern, into which you enter by a fquare Window open
at the hindermoft part of that Cavern, which ferves as a Veftibulum to
the great Grotto. That of Antipater is all lined with Marble chryftalliz'd
and fluted ; it is a kind of Parlour of the fame Floor with its Opening,
and would be extremely agreeable to a Man that had not been dazzled
with the Miracles that are in the large Grotto.

THE top of the Mountain where thele Grottos are, is as it were
paved with traniparent Chryftallizations, like common Talc ; bur

* which

i £2 ^Voyage into the Levant.

which always break into Lozenges or Cubes : and I fancy thefe Chryftal-
lizations are Symptoms of fubterranean Grottos. I have feen the like at
Candia upon Mount Ida, and at Marfei/ks at St. Michael D'Eau Donee.
From the Ridges of the Cavern of Jnt /faros hang fome Roots of that

Capparis n°n fine Caper-Tree without Thorns, whofe Fruit they candy in the Iflands.

ma^ore. c. b. The reft of the Mountain is fpread with Cretan Thyme, falfe Dittany,

pin.ito. Cedars with Cyprefs-Tree Leaves, Lentifques, Squills : all thefe Plants
are common over the Iflands of Greece, and Jntiparos would not be worth
vifiting, were it not for this charming Grotto.

W E crofs'd the Canal that runs between Jntiparos and Paros, with

LabeJi. a South-Weft Wind, that blew in our poop, and carry'd us fix miles
in lefs than an hour's time : for tho the Canal is not above a mile broad,
it is reckon'd fix or leven from the Port of Jntiparos to that of Faros.
This Diftance fatisfy'd us that Jntiparos is the Ifland which the Antients
knew by the name of Oliaros : there is no room for doubting it, from a
Paflage which Stephens the Geographer has preferv'd to us, of the Treatife
of the Iflands by Htraclides Ponticus, who makes Oliaros to be a Colony

ivin ftad. 0f Sidonians, and places that Ifland about feven miles from Paros ; which
agrees exactly with the Length of our Paflage. Our Boat was bravely
tofs'd about, and the Rain, which fell in fheets, wetted us to fbme pur-
pofe : it was the laft Day of JuguH, and the firft time we had feen it
rain in the Jrchipelago.

nAPOS. WE landed the fecond of September at the Gate of theCaftle of'P*-
v ar°s! ' h rechia, the chief Town in the Ifland Paros, built on the Ruins of the
the Franks. antient and famous Paros, which, according to Stephens the Geographer,
was the biggeft and moft potent of the Cyclades. When the Perfians, by
order of Darius, crofs'd over into Europe to make war on the Jthenians,
jierod. lib. 6. Ptros fided with the Jftaticks, whom fhe affifted with Troops for the
Battel of Marathon. Mtltiades, laden with Glory after that great Day,
obtain'd of the Jthenians a ftrong Fleet, and aflured them, without de-
claring for what purpofe he defign'd it, that he would carry their Army
into a Country where it Ihould win great Riches without much trouble,
com. Nepos Payos was befieged by Land and Sea : the Inhabitants feeing their Walls
& Miiuad. ja.j iQ j^jfl^ defired to capitulate ; but perceiving a great Fire on the fide

of

Description of the Ijland of Paros. 153

of ' Mycone, they imagin'd it to be the Signal of fome approaching Sue- Letter V.

cour, fent them by Datis one of the Perfian Generals ; whereupon they ^steph!~^

would not any more hearken to Capitulation : and this gave occafion to

the Proverb, To keep one's Word, after the Parian manner. Miltiades, who kvttm&l-

ivas in apprehenfion of the Enemy's Fleet, burnt all his Machines, and

retired haftily to Athens.

HERODOTVS, who defcribes this very carefully, far from faying iWd.
:hat the Befieged were inclined to capitulate, relates, that Miltiades de-
pairing to carry the Place, confulted Timon, a Prieftefs of the Country,
yho advifed him to perform fome fecret Ceremony in the Temple of
Zeres near the City. That General follow'd her Counfel ; but endea-
vouring to leap over the Inclofure of the Temple, he broke his Leg. In
ill probability the Ceremony did not fucceed ; he was obliged to raife the
Jiege ; the Senate condemned him to pay the Charges of the Expedition :
le was thrown into Prifbn till he mould pay the Debt, and there he died
)f his Wounds. This Siege was very glorious to the Parians, notwith-
Unding they were reckon'd People without Faith for their behaviour in
r ; for Miltiades, who had been unable to fiibdue it, was the greater!: Sol-
der of his Age. After the Battel of Salamin, Themifiocles, tho buiy'd in Herod, lib. S.
he Siege of Andros, rais'd Contributions upon Paros, and made it tribu-
ary to Athens, becaufe itjbad favoured the Afiaticks more than any other of
be Iflands. This is what is to be found of moft certainty in the Greek
liftory relating to the Ifland of Paros. If we go back beyond the Power
f the Athenians, we fhall even then meet with fbraething confiderable of
bis Ifland ; and this would give occafion to fpeak of the different Matters
hat pofTefs'd thefe famous Cyclades, among which, Paros was not the leaft
onfiderable.
PERHAPS Sefofiris, that great King of Egypt, who call'd himfelf8"*^ Bal-
ing of Kings and Lord of Lords, receiv'd the Submiffion of Paros, as*tntZmr
'ell as of moft of the reft of the Cyclades, that is to fay, of fome other ££. Sttoth.
lands of the Archipelago that lie almoft in a Circle round the famous Hift-lib«I«
)elos. The Phenicians muft have poflefs'd thefe Iflands, fince they were Thucyd. lib.i.
le firft Matters of the Grecian Sea ; but it is no eafy matter to reconcile
hucydides and Diodorus Sicultts, about the time when the Carians fettled Biblioth. Hift.
1 thefe Iflands. Thucydides pretends that Minos drove thofe People out '
Vol. I. X of

_ ^4. A V6 y a g e into the Levant.

of them ; and Diodorus on the contrary advances, that they did not fa
much as go thither till after xhzTrojan War, and that they forced the Cre-
tans to leave them. Stephens the Geographer affirms, that the Arcadians
mix'd with the Cretans, and gave the name of one of their Generals,
calFd Par os, to the Ifland we are now fpeaking of; for before, it went by

H;ft. Nat. that of Minos, as Pliny obferves.

HwLh?«b £ ACCORDING to Apollodorus, it was in this Ifland that Minos learnt

"P- J4. the Death of his Son Androgen, who was kill'd in Attica, where he had
diftinguifh'd himielf at the publick Games. That unhappy Father, who
was then facrificing to the Graces at Paros, was fo ftruck with Grief, that
he threw his Garland to the Earth, and would not play on the Flute.

idem Biblioth. Eurydemon, Chryfes, Nephaliom, and Philolaut, other Children of Minoti,
were retired to Paros, when Hercules pafe'd through it to go in queft
of the Girdle of Hypolita, Queen of the Amazons, by order of £a-
ryftheti-s. I

I T is alfo certain, that Paros did not refufe the Propofals of Xerxes
Son of Darim, when that Prince demanded of the Grecian Iflands Earth
and Water ; fincc of all the Iflanders, there were only the Inhabitants of

Herod. lib. 8. Melos, Siphnos, and Seriphos, that would Hot grant him his Demand. The
Inhabitants of the other Iflands deferted the Athenians, and did not own

Biblioth. Hift. their Sovereignty till after the Storm was blown over. Diodorus Sicalns
1 ' ie>' remarks, that they were plunder'd, in fpite of the Athenian Fleet appointed
to defend them from the Infults of Alexander Tyrant of Phenea, who fur-
prized and routed that Armament.

IT appears by that famous Monument of Adtd 'as, Co exactly defcribed
Topogr.chrif- by Cofmos of Egypt, and fo well ilruftrated by the R. F. Dom Bernard de
tian.deMuodo, -^ontjaucon-j tnat- tne Cyclades, and confequently Paros, were under the

dominion of the Ptolemies, Kings of Egypt : for that Monument, which
is of the time of Ptolemy Evergetes, the third of the Name, makes mention
of thofe Iflands. • From the dominion of the Egyptians, if fell again into
De Bello Mi- that of the Athenians. Mithridates for a little while was Matter of the Cy-
clades \ but being forc'd to givC way to the Good-fortune of Sylla, to the
Valour of LucvHu-s, and to the Greatnefs of Pompey, as "Florin expreffes it
he retired towards the North. The Romans continif d quiet PolTefTors oJ
Athens and the ArclJipel.tgo, the Iflands of which were erected into a Pro-

1 vince

Defcription of the I/land of Paros. 155

vince, With Lydia, Phrygia, and Carta. This Province was afterwards Letter V.
under a Proconful, together with the Hellefpont and Afia Minor. *-^v^V>

THE Greek Emperors in their turn were Mailers of the Archipelago,
till Marco Sanudo, a Noble Venetian, was made Duke of Naxia by Henry 1 207,
Emperor of Conflantinople. This new Duke united Paros, and ievcral
other neighbouring Iflands, to Naxos. Paros was difmembred from it bv ^''J01')' °f ^e

00 * Dukes of the

Florentia Sanudo, Dutchefs of the Archipelago, who gave it as a Portion Archipelago,
to Mary her only Daughter, the Wife of Gafpar de Scmmerive : this was a Summaripa.
^reat Lord, who afterwards juftly pretended to the whole Dutchy of
Naxos ; but he was obliged to take up with Paros, being unable to refill
Francis Crifpo, who having caus'd Nicholas Carcerio to be aflaflinated, en"
ter'd into pofleflion of the reft of the Dutchy.

SOME Years after, Paros came into the Muftrious Family of Veniert
by the Marriage of Francis Venter, a Noble Venetian, with Florentia de Som-
fnerive, eldeft Sifter to Courftn de Sommerive, to whom ihe was fole Heireis.
Francis Venier was Grandfather of that famous Venter who yielded the Iiland
of Paros toBarbarojfa, Captain-Baihaw under SolymanW. only becaufe he was
utterly deftitute of Water ztKjphalo in Fort St. Anthony. Leunclivius makes supplem.
mention of a Greek call'd James Heraclides and Bafilicus, who deduced him- Anna1,
felf from the Princes of Wallachia, and bore the Title of Marquils of Paros.
The Wallachians put him to death in 1563 ; but it is not probable he ever
was in pofTeflion of that Iiland, in regard theTarks took it from the Venetians,

A S to the Caftle of Paros, or Parichia, its Walls are built of nothing but
antient pieces of Marble. Moil: of the Columns are placed in it long-wile,
and Ihew only their Diameter : fome of thofe that ftand upwards, fupport
Corniches of an amazing bignefs. On whatever fide you caft your eyes,
you lee nothing but Architraves or Pedeftals, mingled with great pieces
of Marble, that were formerly employ'd in nobler Works. ■ To make the
Door of a Stable, which ufually ferves for that of the whole Houfe, they
fet up two Ends of Corniches, the Moldings of which are admirable:
a-crols thefe they lay a Column to iervc for a Lintel, without much
minding whether 'tis placed according to Rule, and level, or no. The
Natives, who find this Marble ready cut to their hands, put it together as
well as they can, and oftentimes whiten it with Lime. As for Infcrip-
tions, they are not hard to be met with round the Town ; but they are

♦X 2 fo

itfi

A Voyage into the Levant.

fo mauled, that you can make nothing of them. The French, Venetians
and Englijb, have carry'd away the beft, and they every day break to bits
the fineft pieces that they find, for the inclofure of their Fields; Frizes*
Altars, Bafio-Relievos, nothing can efcape the Ignorance of the Greeks,
Wretched Cutters of Saltfellers and Mortars are all you can find here, in

US nSs. c^e room of t^10^e §reat SculPtors aiK* skilful Architects, who formerly
rUn.Htfi.Nau made the Marble of this Ifland more famous than that of the neighbour-
' ing Iflands ; for this beautiful fort of Stone is no lefs common at Naxos
and at Tinos, but they wanted Men of Skill to work upon it, and bring,
it into repute.

THEY carry'd us three miles from the Caftle to fee fome antient

Quarries, where there is nothing left but a few Trenches all covef d witl*

broken Bits and Rubhiih of Stone, as frefh as if they had been lately

work'd in : Mandrake and falfe Dittany grow plenty about them. The

Lapis Lychni- moft antient Quarries are a mile from thence, above the Mill belonging

kcemasTcu- ro fhe Monaftery of St. Minos. In one of thofe Quarries is an antique

niculis oedere- Bafib-Relievo, wrought upon the Marble it felf, which in that place lies

ttir. Plm. lib. i ' r

36. cap. 5. naturally almoft perpendicular at the bottom of a great Cavern that
*j£" *&• now is ufedfor a Sheep-fold, from whence it is probable they got this fine
Deipn. lib. 5. Marble by the Light of Lamps. There is great likelihood that the
SfctrxHy Mountain where this Cavern Hands, is Mount Marfefus,. mention'd by
V'jfJSufc *#M*wi and Stephens the. Geographer.

Marpefos mons THIS BafTb-Relievo is four foot long, and its higbeft part is two foot
fuiar.3"*^ five inches; the bottom of it is cut level, the top is pretty irregular, be*
i». j£»tid.e. caufe the Performer fitted it to the Figure of the Rock. Tho this Work
has been very ill handled by Time, it neverthelefs appears to be a kind
of Bacchanal, or if you will a Country-Wedding, containing twenty
nine Figures tolerably well defign'd, but ill put together. Gf twenty of
thefe Figures, which are upon a line, the fix biggeft are feventeen inches
tall ; they reprefent Nymphs dancing a fort of Brawl : there is another
fitting on the left hand, that feems to draw back, tho prefsM to dance.
Among thefe Figures appears the Head of a Satyr with a long Beard, that
laughs till his fides crack. On the right are placed twelve fmaller Figures,
which feem to come only to be Spectators. Bacchus fits quite o' top of the
Baflb-Relievo, with AiTes Ears, and a huge gundy Gut, furrounded with Fi-
gures

Defer iption of the Ifland of Paros. 1 57

gures in (everal Attitudes ; they all feem perfectly merry, efpecially a Letter V.
Satyr that ftands in the front, with Ears and Horns like a Bull. The ^'^r^-'
Heads of this Piece were never finifhM : 'twas a Whim of fome Carverr
who diverted himfelf with loading his Marble, and who wrote at the
bottom of his BafTo-Relievo,

A A A m a 2

O A P T 2 H S-

NTM4AIS.

AdamaS Odryfes reared this Monument to the Girls of the Country. An-
ciently the Ladies call'd themfelves Nymphs, as Diodorus Siculus informs *jj*"*' HHfc
U9 ; and Bart bias proves pretty plain, that this Name was peculiarly ap- Aiiimad. ad
ply'd to thofe that were not marry'di ,at# part 2"

IN a word, the Marble of this Ifland grew fb famous, that the beft °mnes "■Jf

7 a ' tantum candi-

Carvers ufed no other. Strabo had reafon to fay, that it is an excellent d° marmore
Stone for Statues ; and Pliny tells us, that it was lent for from Egypt, to infuia. piin.
adorn the Frontifpiece of that celebrated Labyrinth, which was counted ^\s"'ap fc
one of the Wonders of the World. As to Statues, the beft Judges agree, Asfo ©g?v
that the Italian Marble is preferable to the Grecian. Pliny juftly affirms* y«ffiffi§£
that that of ' Luna is much whiter. The Grecian Marble has a large ~* llb* IO*
chryftalline Grain, that gives falfe Lights, and flies in little bits, if not The f&rrm
cautioufly managed ; whereas that of Italy obeys the Chizzel, being of a caaa!mi*
much finer, and clofer Grain*- 'W*' »• *«;

THE Quarry of Marble that is in Provence between Marfeilles and
les Pennesy feems to be of the fame Grain with the Grecian Marble : per-
haps it would be fbfter, if they dug to a certain depth. There is alfb
found in thofe parts a very hard Stone like Porphyry, but the Spots of it
are pale ; the only way to know the Beauties of thefe Quarries,, is to
©pen them. Who would ever have thought, that a Reprefentation of .In v*™ma>.
Silenus would be found in thofe of Parosr had they not gone very deep rabifc prod.tur
to difcover that Miracle I E&Sk

AFTER vifiting thefe Quarries, we went to fee the principal parts of ^^nt.ium .
die Ifland Ther& ftill remains at Naufa or Jgoufa a ruinated Fort built nen» siieniin-
in the Sea, on the Remains of which are to be feen the Arms of Venice : pfiS^^toi
the other chief Villages are Coftou, LephcbU^ Marmara, Chepidc, and Dra-l,b'i> *&*•

goula-. .

crnl

r-58 A Voyage into rf>e Levant

goal a. Thefe three laft Villages are at Kjphalo, a part of the Ifland very
^-^ weli known by means of Fort 6>. Anthony, which Barbarojfa had not con-
quer'd, but that the Soldiers in it died of Third. Venter, the Lord of
the Ifland, who defended it fo vigoroufly, got away to Venice, whither he
had before lent his Wife and Children. The Fort AS demolifh'd, and no-
thing is left but the Monaftery of St. Anthony. At prefent they make
ufe of the Marble dug from the Quarries of that part of the Ifland, and
efpecially from thofe of Marmara, whence they carry it in Boats to Pa-
rechia ; whereas that of the antient Quarries can go thither only by Land-
Carriage, which is very fcarce in the Illands.
iSttSte; PL1NT very well fixes the Bignefs of the Ifland Pares, in faying it

' is but half as large as Naaos, which he reckons 75 miles round: by this
Reckoning, Pwmuft be but 36 or 37, the uiual Meafure of the Na-
tives. They fuppofe it to contain about 1500 Families, commonly. tax'd
at 4500 CrownsvCapitation ; but in 1700, they forced them to pay 6000;
and 7000 for the Land-Tax. Indeed this Ifland is well cultivated ; they
feed abundance of Flocks : tlieir Trade confifts in Corn, Barley, Wine
Pulfe, Sefamum, Calicoes. Before the Candian War, they gather'd a

v great deal of Oil ; but x\\zVenetian Army burnt all the Olive-Trees of
Paros, in nine or ten Years that it continu'd there. This Ifland is fo well
ftock'd with Partridges and wild Pigeons, that we bought three Partridges
and two Wood-Pigeons for eighteen Pence. Their Butchers-Meat is good,
and they do not want for Hogs : they have here, as in the reft of the
.Broufims. Iflands, excellent little ' Mutton, which they feed in their Houfes with
Bread and Fruits. Their Melons are - perfectly delicious; but they have
no opportunity of eating them when the Turkiflj Army is among them:
for they in a few days confume all the Fruits of the Archipelago-.

AT Paros we faw it rain for the firft time fince We left France. The
Earth was fo parch'd, that it required a little Deluge to allay its Thirft.
The Cotton, the Vines, and the Fig-trees would be quite burnt up, were
it not for the Dews, which are fo abundant, that our great Coats were
dripping wet with them, when we lay in the Fields, or in Boats, which we
were often drove to do, in pafling from one Ifland to another. To fet
out in a Calm, won't fave you : as they have no Compaft, you are forced
to put in at the firft Lee-fhore, when a brisk Gale begins to blow.

THE

Beftripthn of the IJland of Paros. 159

THE Cadi, the Confnls of Frhtifi England, and Holland, refide at Letter V'
Parechia, where two Confuls are chofen every year : the Office of Cadi,L^^r^J
and that of Vaivode, when we were there, were exercis'd by Conflantachi Thi%^t2'>'.
Condili, the richeft Greek in the Ifland, Brother of Miquelachi CondilL^K Dimi-

_ ,. , _ _, . , r- t-.i « r-> 1 trachi Nicola-

Coniul of France : it is a mark of great Elegance among the Greeks, to chi, Gourjachi,
have their Names terminate in acbi. They lay, Confidntacbi, Miquelachi pi^1™"^*
Janacbi, inftead of Conftantine, Michael, "John ; and in this Ifland they Franc.fcachi . ;
[peak with more propriety than in the rcll of the Archipelago. ter, Anthony,

THE Inhabitants of Pares have always been accounted People oT Nicholas '
good Senfe, and the Greeks of the neighbouring Iflands often make them ^en^phuf'
Arbitrators of their Diiputes. This puts me in mind of the Choice the Francis.
MdcCians formerly made of lome wife Parians, to put their City, which H«od. iib^„
was ruin'd by Parties, into a Form of Government : thofe Parians re-
Tiew'd the Country of Miletus, and named to the Magiftracy thofe whole
Lands were bed cultivated ; realbnably concluding, that they who took
due care of their own Eftates, would not neglect the Affairs of the
Publick.

ST. MARTS is the belt Port in the Ifland; the greateft Fleet may
anchor there with fafety, and more conveniently than in that of Agou-
fa, which is clofe to ir. The Port of Parechia is fit only for Small-
Craft : they have a mighty efteem for that of Drio, where the Turkip or Tieou,
Fleet generally cafts anchor. The Road of Drio, which is on the Weftern
part of the Ifland, leaves Naxia to the Eafl, and Aio to the South. The
mod Eafterly of the two Rocks that lie in the middle of this Road, is
not above 500 paces long, and the other is almofl Soo : here the Fleets
have good Mooring, and the South-Weft is the Wind that blows into the
Road. Oppofite to this latter Rock, in a Plain at the foot of a little
Hill, runs a fine Stream, iffuing from four Springs not above eight or ten
paces one from the other '. thefe Springs firft form a little Stream divided
into three Gutters, where the Turks have within thefe few years cut
Cifterns for Bathing and making their Ablutions ; thefe Gutters run down
into the Sea, and when the Ships water, they flow into the Casks in the
Boats, by means of Pipes made of boil'd Leather^ which they' call
Hand-Leathers. : '

T H E

i6o A Voyage into the Levant

THE Panagia or Madona, which (lands out of the City of Parechia,
is the largelt and handfomeft Church in the Archipelago : this is no very
great Commendation ; its Light is good, and the Arches of the Roofs are
tolerably beautiful : but as the Columns were taken out of the Ruins of
the City, and are of different Orders and Models ; the whole is fad-
ly miiinatched. The great Dome on the outfide has the form of the
Helm of a Lembick : the Sculpture of the Frontifpiece is execrable,
and the Painting of the Choir very coarfe. The Greeks call this Church
Kcmm\Uvn- Catapoliani. It is not at all probable, that it was built upon the Ruins of
Ad Ann. 902. that magnificent Church dedicated to the Virgin, defcribed by Earonius.
That was in the midfl of a great Foreft, which was the Retreat of St. The-
otfifta, the Patronefs of the Ifland ; and Catapoliani is at the Gate of Pa-
rechia, that is, of the antient City of Paros, on the Sea-fhore.

THE Convent of French Capuchins, which is on the right hand as
you go to this Church, is very well built ; its Church is pretty, and its
Garden agreeable : there are but two Fathers in it, who live upon Alms,
and teach Greek and Italian. It is the Rendevouz and Comfort of the
Latins, who are but very few in this Ifland.

AMO NG the Chappels in the Town, St. Helena's is much efteem'd :
indeed it is a very great pity, that the Parian Marble, formerly lb great
an Ornament to Greece, ihould be fo ill apply 'd. Nothing can be more
ridiculous than to fee poor Plates of Earthen Ware inchafed in that beau-
tiful Stone, inftead of Sculpture, to adorn the Frontifpieces of their Chap-
pels : 'tis like letting a Flint Stone in Gold. They reckon no lefs than
fixteen Monasteries in Paros, viz.

S T. Minas the Martyr, the biggeft Convent in the Ifland, tho it has but
rwo Caloyers ; 'w@J mhmcs.

ST. Michael the Archangel, 'a>ws T«|/a^x«.

THE Convent of the Apofiles, 'Ayloi AirozoKot.

OV R Lady of the Lake, nxvxyia, AxyoyzcfySb.

ST. John the Rainy, 'Ayios iaavvus Kaugex*-

ST. George of the Goofeberries, a Fruit pretty rare in the Eaft ; 'a>*os

TlbpyvK Mt<>8^,

ST. Andrew, 'a}«>s Av/g&xs.
ST* Anthony, \ym avt&vi'os.
• , * THE

Defcription of the IJland of Paros. 161

THE Holy Solitude, '*yx mo'vh. Letter V-

0 V R Lady of all Forejight, nxvxylx 2£K«?i«v»f. s-T^T^t

ST. John Adrian, Ay/05 icdvm a«A?<«»/.

ST. Cyriac, or St. Dominic, AyiosKvewnds.

ST. John of the Seven Fountains, ' Ayict iaxm$ yiafyiom.

OVR Lady of the Vnrvholefome Place, navayia tottxqxvcl.

ST. Noirmantinus, the Hermit of Mount Sinai, Ay/os Ka^A&g^.

THE Monafiery of Chrift, 'o x?isfc.

' ARCH1LOCHVS, the famous Author of Iambick Verfes, diftiu- ' Suab- *er-

Geog. lib. 10.

guifh'd himfelf among the Great Men of Paros. Horace was in the right Archiiochum
to fay that Rage infpired that Poet : his Verfes were fo biting, that Ly- l^°t [f^s
ca-mbas, his Antagonift, was fiich a Fool as to hang himfelf for defpair. bo- H°ra*. d*
Archilochus lived in the time of Gyges King of Lydia, and was Cotempo- TinftaLycam-
rary with Romulus. be.° fanSuine

J _ tela madent.

W E are at a lofs for the Name of an excellent Man of that Ifland, 0* m Am.
who was the Author of the nobleft Monument of Chronology that is in Herod* lib- '•
the World, which is now to be feen in the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford :
upon this piece of Marble, which M. de Peirefc purchas'd in the Levant, Gaffend. in
with feveral others, that fell into the hands of the Earl of Arundel, are via Eeuefc'
engraved the moit noted Greek Epochas from the Reign of Cecrops, the
Founder of the Athenian Monarchy, to Diognetes the Magiftrate ; that is
to fay, the Courfe of 1 3 1 8 Years. Bifliop Vjher believes that this Chro-
nology was written 26 3 Years before Chrift.

THIS Marble, which could not be corrupted like a Manufcript, in -
forms us of the Time of the Foundation of the moft famous Cities of
Greece, and the Age of the greateft Men that were Ornaments of that
Nation. For inflance, by this we know that Hefwd lived 27 Years be-
fore Homer, and that Sappho wrote not till about 200 Years after that
Poet. Thefe Marbles fix the Magistrates of Athens, and are of vaft help 'o va«^>v.
to us in the Wars of thole Times : but this is not a proper place to enter
into thefe Particulars • it is our bufinefs now to relate our PafTage into the
Ifland of Naxia, known to the Antients by the Name of Naxos.

W E arrived there the feventh of September, in lefs than two hours ;Naxia,
for the PafTage from Port Agoufa {which is at the North Point of Paros) n a x v »/
Vol. I. Y is

J 62

Hift. Nat.
lib. 4. cap. 1 2

De Excidio
Theflalon.

Ann. 904.

Bomdi<ious.

Diod. Sicul.
Biblioth. Hift.
lib. 3.

* Mogts.

• Siroc.

\

4 Voyage,
Tom. 3.

5 Lib. 6.

' Geoig. Syn-
tell. 2i/JjuA-
>,cf, in eadem
cella liabitans.
Ajftftant of the
Patriarch,

A Vo y a g e into the Levant.

is but nine miles over, and the Canal, in a diredfc line, is but fix miles broad :
fo that Vliny has very well fettled the diilance between thefe two Iflands at
7 miles 500 paces. Naxia is a Corruption of Naxos : every body knows
that the Greek Tongue has undergone great Changes in the Decadence of
the Empire. The word Naxia is to be found in John Cameniatas, who
wrote of the taking of Tkejfalonica by the Saracens : he was taken and
carry 'd to C audi a with the other Slaves. The Fleet of the Saracens r in
which they were, anchor'd at Naxia, fays he, to exacl: the accuftom'd
Tribute ; but it fufFer'd very much in the Port of the ' Fifhpond, which is
now calPd the Port of the Saltpits, to the right of the Gate of the Caftle.
They (till catch abundance of Mullets and Eels in this Port, by means
of certain Hurdles of Reeds faften'd together : thefe Hurdles fold like
our Skreens, and are fo order'd, that the Fifh which get into them at
holes left on purpofe, cannot difengage themfelves. They make ufe of
Machines like thefe, but much bigger and better-contriv'd, in the Canal
of Martigues in Provence : the Invention is very antient. The hhthyo-
pbagi of Babylonia apply'd themfelves to this kind of Fifhing, and without
trouble caught more Fifh than they knew how to diipofe of. Thefe
Hurdles laft a long while, and are very portable, like thofe which we ufe
as Pens for Sheep.

THE Fifhery of Naxia, the Cuftoms, and the Saltpits of the Towr% j
arefarm'd but at 800 Crowns: accordingly you may have twelve or fif-
teen Meafures of Salt for a Crown, and each ' Meafure weighs 1 20 French
Pounds. The Port of the Saltpits is not fit for large VefTels, no more than 1
the other Ports of the Ifland, which are all open tothe North ox' Soutb-
Eaff. : their Names are Calados, Panormo, St.JohnTriangata, Filolimnarez
Potamides, and Jpol/ona, which perhaps retains that Name from the Tei
pie of Apollo, which the Athenians built at the point of Naxos, oppofite
to the Ifland of Delos. We muft have a care not to confound the IflanC
of Naxos, as 4 M. Spon has done, with a Town of the fame Name in &•
cilj ; where, according to s Tbucjdides, the People of the Ifland Eubau
rais'd an Altar to Apollo.

NAXOS, tho without Ports, was a very flourifhing 6 Republick, anc
commanded the Sea, at the time when the Perjians pafs'd into the Archi-
pelago. It is true, they were in pofTeffion of the Iflands of Paros

Andres

Defer ipt ion of the Ijland of Naxia. 1 63

Andros, whofe Ports are excellent for the Reception and Entertainment Letter V.
of the greatefl Fleets. ' Ariftagoras, Governour of Miletus in Ionia, laid ■^HirodT^^
a defign to furprize Naxos, under pretence of reiloring the greatefl: Lords

I in the Ifland, who being driven out by the Populace, had taken refuge
with him. Darius King of Per fa furnifh'd him not only with Troops
for landing, but alfo with a Fleet of two hundred Ships. The Naxiotes
being fecretly forewarn'd by Magabates, the General of the Per fans, with
whom Arijlagoras happen'd to fall out, prepared a warm Reception for
him. He was forced to draw ofT, after a Siege of four months : and all
the Service he could do the Iflanders that had retired to Miletus, was to
obtain leave to build them a Town at Naxos, to cover them from the

; Infults of the People.

THE Per fans made a fecond Defcent upon this Ifland, when they ra-

• vaged the Archipelago. ' Datis and Artapbemes meeting with no refiftauce, * Heiod. lib.6.

' burnt the very Temples, and carry'd off a vaft number of Prilbners.
Naxos recover'd it felf from this Lois, and ; fent four Ships of War to that ' i<km> l»M.
powerful Grecian Fleet, which beat that of Xerxes at 4 Salamin, in the ♦ colouri.
Gulph of Athens. The Remembrance of the Mifchiefs the Per fans had
done to Naxos, and the Fear of provoking them to new ones, obliged the
People to declare for the Afiaiicks : but the Officers of the Ifland were of
a contrary Opinion, and carry'd the Ships which they commanded, to
join the Grecian Fleet, by order of Democritus, the moil potent of the
Citizens of Naxos. Diodorus Siculus informs us, that the Naxiotes gave BibHoth- Hift-

lib. *\

great proofs of Valour at the Battel of Platea, where Mardonius, another
Per fan General, was defeated by Paufanias. Mean while the Allies Thucyd. lib. i."
having given the Command of the Army to the Athenians, thefe latter
declared War againil the Naxiotes, to puniih the Favourers of the Per fans.
The City therefore was befieged, and forced to capitulate with its primi-
tive Mailers ; for Herodotus, who places Naxos ■ in the Diftrict of Ionia, Lib- 7-
and calls it the happiefl of Iflands, makes it an Athenian Colony ; and re- fowvmftf
lates that Piftfiratus had in his turn been in pofleflion of it. ' ™™v- Herod-

THESE are the moil remarkable Events that happen'd to the Ifland Wem, lib. r.
of Naxos in the polite Times of Greece. If we fearch into remoter Anti-
quity, we find in Diodorus Siculus and Paufanias the Origin of the firil Diod. sic. Bib*
People that fettled there. Butes, the Son of Boreas King of Thrace, Vmh' Hirt' :"

Y 2 having

164.

A Voyage into the Levant.

having attempted to furprize his Brother Ljcurgus in an Ambufh, was by
his Father's Order obliged to leave the Country with his Accomplices:

2TP01TT- their Good-fortune brought them to the Round Ifland, for lb they named
this we are now (peaking of. As the Thracians found in it few or no Wo-
men, and moil of the Iflands of the Archipelago uninhabited, they made
(bme Irruptions upon the Continent, whence they brought off Women,
among whom was Iphimedia the Wife of King Aloeus, and his Daughter
Pancratis. That King enraged at fuch an Injury, commanded his Sons
Otus and Ephialtes to revenge him : they beat the Thracians, and made
themlelves mailers of the Round Ifland, which they named Dia. Thefe

ljb.9. Princes lbme time afterwards kiJl'd each other in Combat, as Paufanias

lays ; or were kill'd by Apollo, according to Homer and Pindar : thus the
Thracians remairfd quiet PoflelTors of the Iiland, till a great Drowth con-
flrain'd them to leave it, above two hundred Years after their Settlement.

awbton*^ It was afterwards held by the Carians ; and their King Naxios or Naxos.

»«. steph. according to Stephens the Geographer, gave it his own Name. He was
fiicceeded by his Son Leucippus, the Father of Smardius, in whole Reign
Thefeus returning from Crete with Ariadne, landed in the Ifland, where he
left his Miftrefs to Bacchus, whofe Menaces had terribly frighten'd him in
a Dream.

THE Inhabitants of Naxos pretended that that God was brought up
among them, and that this Honour had procured them all manner of Fe-
licity. Others believed that Jupiter had intruded him with Mercury, to

Ab»'a*S< *) be educated in the Cave of Njifa on the Coafts of Phoenicia, on that fide

sic.^Bibibth.' that comes neareft to Nile : from whence Bacchus was calPd Dionyjiuu

Hift. lib. 4. & j^is is not a pr0per piace to difentaugle the Story of Bacchus. Diodorus

Siculus relates, that there were three of them, to whom we are obliged
not only for the Cultivation of Fruits, but alio for the Invention of Wine,
and for that of Beer, which one of them brought into ule, in favour or'
fuch Nations as could not raife Vineyards in their own Country,
idem Biblioth. THE famous Epocha that the lame Author has preferv'd us relating to
,ib* ">• the overflowing of the Pont us Euxinus into the Grecian Sea, gives us great

light into moft of the Adventures that happen'd in fome of thofe Iflands.
That Epocha at lead difcovers to us the Foundation of many Fables that
have been publifli'd of them : it will not be improper to mention it here by

the

Defcription of the I/land of Naxia. 1 6$

the way, that the Readers may not wonder at certain things which we Letter W

fhall fpeak of in our Delcription of the other Iflands. Diodurus then af- v-^"v""5!*»«-»

fures us, that the Inhabitants of the Ifland of Samothrace had not forgot sanmandiaki.

the prodigious Alterations made in the Archipelago by the Overflows of

Pontus Fuxinns, which of a great Lake that it was before, became at laft a

confiderable Sea by the Concourfe of the many Rivers that dilgorge into

it : thefe Overflows laid the Archipelago under water, deftroy'd almoft all

the Inhabitants, and reduced thofe of the higheft Iflands to the neceffity

of climbing up to the tops of the Mountains. How many large Iflands

were then fplit into divers pieces, if we may ufe that Expreflion ? Was

there not reafbn after this, for looking on thefe Iflands as a new World,

that could not be peopled but in procefs of time ? Is it at all furprizing,

that the Hiftorians and Poets ihould publifh fo many ftrange Adventures,

that happen'd in thofe Iflands in proportion as People of Courage left:

the Continent to go to view them ? Is it any wonder that Pliny, the

Epitomizer of fb many Books now loft, Ihould fpeak of certain Changes

incredible to thofe that do not reflect upon what has happen'd in the Uni-

verfe during fo many Ages ? What we have further to fay of Naxia, is

lefs remote from our Age.

DURING the Peloponnejian War, this Ifland declared for Athens, with Thucyd. lib. 2.
the other Iflands of the /Egean Sea, except Milo and ' Then. Naxos , Santorin,
afterwards fell into the hands of the Romans : after the Battel of Phdippi, Appian. lib. 5,
Murk Anthony gave it to the Rhodians ; but took it from them again fbme
time afterwards, becauie their Government was too rigorous. It was
under the dominion of the Roman, and afterwards of the Greek Empe-
rors, till the taking of Constantinople by the French and the Venetians; for l
three years after that great Revolution, as the French purfu'd their Con-
quefts of the Provinces and Places upon the Continent, under the Em-
peror Henry, the Vemtians being mafters of the Sea, gave permiffion to Flav BIond
fuch Subjects of the Republick as would fit out Ships, to polTels them- ?reviar- Rsr-
felves of the Iflands of the Archipelago, and other maritime Places, upon
condition that the Acquirers of them did homage to thofe to whom they h^"/^.
belong'd, according to the Partition made between the French and Venetians. <fc Conftant.
Marco Sanudo then got pofTeffion of Naxia, Paros, Antiparos, Milo, Argen- Hftor, of (h
tiere, Siphanto, Policxndro, Nanfio, Nio, and Santonni, The Emperor Henry Dukes of the

erected i °

1 66 j4 Voyage into the Levant.

erected Naxia into a Dutchy, and gave Sanudo the Title of Duke* of the
Archipelago' zv\d Prince of the Empire. F. Sanger, a Jefuit Miffionary very
much efteem'd in the Levant by the name of F. Robert, has happily clear'd
np the Succeffion of the Dukes from Marco Sanudo to 'James Crifpo,
the 2 1 ft and laft Duke of the Archipelago, who was outed by the
Turks under Selim II. and died of Grief at Venice. His Father John
Crifpo had enter'd into an Engagement fome years before, to pay Soly-
man II a Tribute of fix thoufand Crowns in Gold, when Barbarojfa made
his Defcent upon the Ifland, and plunder' d it. Thus ended the Sove-
reignty of the Archipelago, after having been above three hundred Years
Ducas H.ft. jn tjje nancjs 0f LAtin Princes. A long; while before, the Ifland had been

Byzant. cap. 7. o 1 ■"

ravaged by Homur a Mahometan Prince, Cotemporary with John Paleo-
logus, and Mafter of Smyrna and the Coaft of Ionia.

T H O this Ifland is one of the moft agreeable in the whole Archi-
pelago, yet to us it feem'd fitter to infpire Grief than Joy : you muft
traverfe it all over to find out the fine parts of it, which are the
Campo de Naxia, the Plains of Angarez, of Carchi, of Sangri, of Si-
deropetra, of Potamides, of Livadia ; the Valleys of Melanes and of Pe-
rato. The whole Ifland is cover'd with Orange, Olive, Lemon, Cedar,
Citron, Pomegranate, Fig, and Mulberry-Trees ; it has alfo a great many
• M«g£ y'i- Streams and Springs. ' The Antients were not in the wrong, when they
3wthem.lib?i. call'd it Little Sicily. Archilochm in Athenxus compares the Wine of
«>p. 5- Naxos to the Neclar of the Gods. There is a ' Medal of Septimim Seve-

' Legend. ' rusi on trie Reverie whereof Bacchiu is reprefented holding in his Right
n a 5 1 n n. Hand a Goblet, and a Thyrfus in his left. They drink excellent Wine at
Naxia to this day : the Naxiotes, who are the true Children of Bacchus,
cultivate the Vine very well, tho they let it run along the ground eight
or nine foot from the Trunk ; which is the occafion that in great Heats
the Sun dries the Grapes too much, and they are more eafily rotted by
the Rain than at Santorini, where the Vine-Stumps grow like Shrubs.

STEPHENS the Geographer relates two Fables out of Afclepiades,

which fhew the Goodnefs of this Ifland. It is given out, fays he, that

MoxDionyf.a- tne Women are brought to bed at the end of eight Months, and that

da ivinearum there flows a Spring of Wine in that Ifland : this Wine no doubt 20t.it

temhtate ap- * D o

peiiamnt. pim. the name of Dionyftai, which Pliny mentions. That Author allows Naxos

Hifi. Nat. -J J

lib. 4. w/i.12. tO

Defcription of the IJland of Naxia. 1 6j

to be no more than 75 miles about; but the Inhabitants fay 'tis ico. Letter V.
Its*Form is almoft oval, and ends in two Points, one looking towards **-'r~v~^
Nio, and the other pointing between Mycone and Nicaria.

THO there is no Port at Naxia, that is likely to draw a great Trade,
yet they carry on a confiderable TrafHck in Bailey, Wine, Figs, Cotton,
Silk, Flax, Cheefe, Salt, Oxen, Sheep, Mules, Emerils and Oil : they
burn only Maftick Oil, tho for a Crown you may have eight Oques of
Olive-Oil. Their Maftick-Trees are loaded with a prodigious quantity of
Seed, which when it is ripe they fet to concocl, and prefs fome days after-
wards : this Oil is good againft: a Loofenefs, the Whites, the Gonorrhea,
the Cholick: they anoint with it, in the falling of the Anus. ' Diofco- ' Lib.i.c.50.
rides recommends it for cutaneous Diftempers. The Ladanurn gather'd in
this Ifland is fit for nothing but the Ufe of the Inhabitants ; it is full of
Dirt, Goats-hair, and Wool : for they do not take the pains to get it
with Whips, as they do in Candia ; they only cut off the Wool and Hair
of fuch Animals as have rubb'd againft the Bullies of that fort of Ciftus
which we have defcribed before, and which is very common at Naxia.
* Herodotus and ! Diojcorides mention this way of gathering Ladanurn. * Lib. 3.
Wood and Coal, which are things very rare in the other Iflands,are in great ' Lib-i-c-irt-
plenty in this. The People eat well ; Hares and Partridges are extremely
- cheap ; they catch their Partridges in wooden Traps, or eife by means
of an Afs, under the belly of which a Peafant hides himfelf, and fo drives
them into the Nets.

IT is probable the City of Naxia, the Capital of this Country, was n^« Nk «
built upon the Ruins of fome antient City of the fame name, which Zlos. Iib?j.
Ptolemy feems to have mention'd. The Cattle fituated on the moftcap-15,
elevated part of the Town, was the Work of Marco Sanudo, the firft:
Duke of the Archipelago : it is a Circuit flank'd with great Towers,
within which Hands* a very large fquare one, whofe Walls are very thick,
and which was properly the Palace of the Dukes. The Defendants of
the Latin Gentlemen that fettled in the Iiland under thofe Princes, are
ftill in poiTeflion of the Scite of this Cattle. The Greeks, who are much
more numerous, enjoy all from the Cattle down to the Sea. The En-
mity between the Greek and Latin Gentry, is irreconcilable: the Latins
would rather make Alliance with the meaneft Peafant, than marry Greek

Ladies ;

i*58 ^Voyage into the Levant.

Ladies ; which made them procure from Rome a Difpenfation to inter-
marry with their Coufin-Germans. The Turks ufe all thefe Gentlemen,
of both forts, juft alike. At the arrival of the meaneft Bey of a Gal-
liot, neither Latins nor Greeks ever dare appear but in red Caps, like the
common Gally-Slaves, and tremble before the pettieft Officer. As foon
as ever the Turks are withdrawn, the Naxian Nobility relume their former
Haughtineis : nothing is to be feen but Caps of Velvet, nor to be heard
of but Tables of Genealogy ; fome deduce themfelves from the Paleolo°i
or Comnenii ; others from the Jujliniani, the Grtmaldi, the Summaripa's.

THE Grand Signior never need to fear any Rebellion in this Ifland •
the moment a Latin ftirs, the Greeks give notice to the Cadi ; and if a
Greek opens his mouth, the Cadi knows what he meant to lay before he
has fhut it. The Ladies here are moft ridiculoufly vain ; you mall lee
them return from the Country after Vintage, with a Train of thirty or
forty Women, half on foot and half upon AfTes ; one carries upon her
head a Napkin or two made of Cotton, or a Petticoat of her Miftrefs's ;
the other marches along, holding in her hand a Pair of Stockings, a done
Kettle, or a few Earthen Plates : all the Furniture of the Houfe is ftt
to view, and the Miftreis forrily mounted, makes her Entry into the
City in a kind of Triumph at the head of this Proceffion. The Chil-
dren are in the middle of the Cavalcade, and the Husband ulually
brings up the Rear. The Latin Ladies fometimes drefs after the Venetian
manner ; the Habit of the Greek Ladies here differs a little from that of
the Women of Milo : we fliall mention all their Clothes, in our Defcrip-
tion of the Drefs of thole of Mjcone.

TO come to fomething more ferious: There are two Archbifhops in
Naxia, one Greek, and another Latin ; the Latin one is very eafy in his
Circumftances, and is named by the Pope : his Church, which is call'd
the Metropolitan, was built and endow'd by the firffDuke of the Ifland;
and accordingly the Chapter confifts of fix Canons, a Dean, a Chanter, a
Provoft and a Treafurer, befides nine or ten affiftant Priefts, that make up
the reft of the Clergy.

THE Jefuits have their Refidence near the Ducal Tower ; they gene-
rally are feven or eight Priefts, not only employ'd in educating the Youth,
but alio in performing Millions into the other Iflands of the Archipelago,

which

/,y.j.

Jh*/-ifS.

*&•

Calam'tii.

Defcnptton of the Ijland of Naxia. 169

which they do with a great deal of Zeal. The Capuchins have alio a Letter V
Settlement ax Naxia, and apply themfelves no lefs ardently and fuccefs- *-^v*j
fully to the Inftrudion of the Chriftians. The Houfe of the Cordeliers
is without the Town ; but there are only one Prieft and one Lay-Brother
that lodge in the antient Monaftery of St. Anthony, which was formerly
erected into a Commandery of Rhodes, and given to the Knights by the Boffu, h».
Dutchefs frames Crifpo. <fcs chevaU

P H YS I C K is pradtis'd by all thefe Religious. The Jefuits and Capu-
chins have very good Apothecaries Shops. The Cordeliers fet up for the
Trade as well as the reft : their Superior was Surgeon-Major to the Vene-
tian Army during the laft War, and got himfelf naturaliz'd at Venice, that
he might be Mailer of his Convent, which is dependent on thatRepub-
lick, tho it is in the Dominions of the Turks. Thefe are the Doctors
that compofe the Faculty of Phyfick at Naxia ; they are all French, and
yet agree together very indifferently.

THE' Country-Houfe belonging to the Jefuits is pretty enough, cou-
ntering it is among a People that know nothing at all of Building.
The Greeks, who can but juft make a fhift to place a Ladder on the
Outfide of their Houfes, to get up to the firft Story, admire the Stair-
cafe of this, which is within :. this exceeds the Conception of their Ar-
chitects. We admired their Gardens and Orchards : their Fields ftretch
quite to the Valley of Melanez,, which is one of the mofl agreeable
Places in the whole Ifiand. ,*

THE Greek Archbifhop of Naxia is very rich; Faros and AmiPros
are dependent upon him in Spiritual Matters : he hath in the Town ?
Priefts, or Sacred Monks, that are under his Direction. Here follow the
Names of his principal Churches.

THE Metropolitan, 'h mwt pdinKis.

TWO Churches call'd by the name of ChriJt, 'pxp.srV.

THE Church of the Crofs, 'o ztou/xJs.

01) R Lady the Merciful, Tlxvxyla. EAesow.

OVR Lady Protetfrefs of the I/land, mvtyiu riaiSifoja.

ST. John the Evangelist, \yo% \cchm &u>K6y&.

ST. Demetrius, 'a^; ah^mt^©-.

.ST. Pantaleon, or the Great Almfgiver, 'w& nttmhi;^^

V°U- Z TV,..-

17a yf Voyage into the Levant.

TWO Churches call'd St.Veneranda^nx^sKwa.-

ST. John Baptifl, 'Ay log teams nec'J^o^©-.

ST. Michael the Archangel, 'Ayiog Tccf/o^x115.

ST. Elijah, 'Ayio% 'nMocg.

THE Church of the Favourite of God, 'Ayi'os eiMiTRtsv*.

ST. Theodofia, 'A-yrx eeoSbofa.

5 T. Dominica, 'ajix Rug/aw*.

S T. Anafiafia, 'ajIk Av«y«n«.

5 T. Catharina, 'ajicl KoeSagfax.

THE Annunciade, 'ftglgftfeM*

The chief Monasteries in the Ifland are,
THE Virgin of Publication, uxvxyix *«vajgo/ttm.
THE moft Elevated Virgin, nxmytx 'r^hdm^,
THE Holy Ghofi, Ktfpi®' kmbt*&Q^
ST. John Give-Light, 'a>ic?i<d«vw$ <j>oTo5iynj5.
THE Convent of Good Infiruclion, KccAugmiow.
THAT of the Crofs, 'o *tccv&.
THAT of St. Michael, *o t«|i«?^s.

The Villages of the Ifland are,

Comiaqui,

Votri,

Scados,

Checrez,

Apano Sangri,

Cato Sangri,

Cheramoti,

Siphones,

Mont,

Perato,

Caloxylo,

Charami,

Filoti,

Damariona,

Engarez,
Danaio,
Tripodez,
Apano Lagadia,
Cato Lagadia,
Metochi,

Vourvouria,

Carchi,

Acadinti,

Mognitia,

Kjnidaro,

Aiolas, meiocm,

Sealaria, where the Pots Fyrgos,

are made ; Apano Potamia,

Couchoucherado) Cato Potamhy

Gizamos, Aitelini,

Damala, Vazokilotifa,

Melanez, St. EleutheritVy the 0
Cabonez, of which is call'd Fa

Courmcorio, [tail/ foaiUiu

thes:

/.V.J-.

ui-a u/?f7n a Lft<?c£ near y JfltisLs/ af^ \/<zrcv .

**"<£■ JZ^,-

rDefcription of the IJland of Naxia. 1 7 1

THESE Villages arc not all very populous ; the Jefiiits afliired us, Letter V.
there were not above 8000 Souls in the Ifland. In 1700, the Inhabitants <^~^r^-^
paid 5000 Crowns Capitation, and 5500 Crowns Land-Tax. They every
Year in the City ele<5t fix Adminiftrators. At the time when we were
there, the Cadi was not accompany 'd with more than feven or eight
Tark/{b Families, and the Vaivode was another Turk deputed by a Bey of
a Galley of Scios.

THE Gentlemen of Naxia keep wholly in the Country in their
Caftles, which are pretty handfbmc fquare Homes, and vifit one another
but very rarely : Hunting is moll: of their Employment. When a Friend
comes to fee them, they order one of their Servants to drive the firfl: Hog
or Calf he can light of into their Grounds : thefe Animals thus caught
ftraying, as they call it, in their Territories, are confifcated, and put to
death according to the Cuftom of the Country ; and they feaft upon his
Carcaft. Pliki is a part of the Ifland where they fay there are Stags :
the Trees are not very tall ; we faw none but Cedars with Cyprefs- Cc^^ Mio

_ Cuprefll me-

J-eaVeS. ' dia, ruajonbus

ABOUT aMusket-fhot from the Ifland, near the Caftle, rifes outa^f- c' B'
little Rock, on which is to be feen a very beautiful Gate of Marble, a-
mong lbme large pieces of the fame Stone, and fome bits of Granate-
Stone ; the Turks and Chriftians have carry'd away the reft : they fay
thefe are the Ruins of the Palace of Bacchus ; but it is much more likely
they are the Fragments of a Temple of that God. This Gate, which
confifts but of three pieces of white Marble, is remarkably noble in its
Simplicity : two pieces form the Mounters, and the third the Lintel ; the
Threfhold was of three pieces, the middlemoft: of which is gone. The
Gate in the clear is eighteen foot high, and eleven foot three inches broad :
the Lintel is four foot thick ; the Mounters are three foot .and a half
broad, and four foot thick. All thefe pieces were cramp'd with Copper ;
for bits of that Metal are to be found among the Ruins.

K,1A, which is thehighefl Mountain in the Ifland, fignirles the Mount a 1 a, «»i^
of Jupiter, and has retain'd the name of Dia, which was formerly that zfa'.^'"*
of the Ifland. Corono, another Mountain of Naxia, keeps that of the
Nymph Coronis, the Nurfe of Bacchus ; which feems to give authority to
the Pretenfion of the antient Naxiotes, who maintainM that the Educa-

Z 2 rioa

172 y^ Voyage into the Levant

tion of that God was intrufted to the Nymphs Coronisr Philiay and Cleit
Bibiioth. Hift. (whofe Names are to be found in Diodorns Sictdus) in their Ifland. Fanari
is another of the Mountains of Naxia, and is pretty confideraWe.

TOWARDS the bottom of the Mountain Zja, on the right hand of
the Road to Perato, in the very Road, you fee a Block of rough Marble,
eight foot big, which naturally juts out about two foot and a half be-
yond the reft. Underneath this Marble, we read this antient Infcription j

O P O 2 A I O 2 MHAO.SIOT.

The Mountain of Jupiter, the Preferver of Flocks.

Mike!. Erad. m. Galand, of the Academy Royal of Infcriptions, who aceompany'd

M. de Nointel in his Voyage into the Archipelago, communicated this In-

iiiftory of the fcripti0n to M. Spon, and F. Sanger has tranfcribcd it alfo. The wav of

Dukes of the * ■• ' ° J

Archipelago, writing underneath, or to lay better, on the inferiour Surface of a piece
of Marble, is a very good means of prelerving the Letters.

WE were alfo fhew'd the Grotto where they pretend the Bacchantes
celebrated the Orgies : but for want of Torches we could not go into it.
As for the King's Arms, which M. de Nointel caus'd to be carv'd upon that
Rock, our Guide inform'd us that they had been deftroy'd by Thunder,
and that he did not know what was become of them.

A S to the Natural Hiftory of the Ifland, they pretend that near the
smeriiio. Caftle of Naxia there are Mines of Gold and Silver. Thole of Emeril
are at the bottom of a Valley beyond Perato, in the Territories of M. Co-
ronello, Conful of France, and of M. de Grimaldi. They find the Emeril
as they plough the Earth, and carry it down to the Sea-Coafl, to put it
on board Ships at Triangata or at St. John. The Englifh often ballaft their
Ships with it : it is fo cheap upon the fpot, that you may have twenty
Quintals of it for a Crown, and every Quintal weighs 140 Pounds. The
Mountains of this Ifland are of Marble or Granate : we were adored that
Terpentine Stona was alio to be found there.

W E fimpled in the Marines towards the Port of the Sakpits at Cala-
tnitia, where the Jeluits regaled us ; at Pliki ; at Perato, where the Conful
for fome days gave us very agreeable Entertainment ; at Fanari, and at
Zja. Before we come to give a general Defcription and Catalogue of the
Plants of this Ifland, we fhall here mention three, that are rare enough

to

/:>/. t

-fty-'W

Scrvp>/u//ar/si a/az/rt?

Defcription of the I/land of Naxia. 173

to deferve the Attention of fuch as apply themfelves to Studies of this. Letter V.
nature.

SCROPHVLARIAy gUtuo folby in amplas lacinias divifo. Corol.
Inft. Rei Herb. 9.

ITS Root is afoot and a half long, the Neck an inch and feme few
lines big, hard, reddiih within, brown without, picked at the bottom,
divided into hairy Fibres. The Stalk, which often rifes two or three foot
high, is full of Branches from the very bottom, ligneous, and comes to
be an Under-Shrub, quite bare of Leaves except towards the top : its
Leaves are eight inches long, fleek, ihining, divided almofl like thofe of
the Thapfia ; that is to fay, into parts oppofite two and two, cut in-
quite to the Stalk, and flafh'd very deep length-ways. This Stalk em-
braces part of the Branches, and furnifhes very vifibleVeffels, the Sub-
divifions of which ftretch out towards the edges of the Leaves : they di-
minifh quite to the Extremity of the Branches, among feveral fmall Stalks
laden with Flowers like thofe of the other forts : thefe Flowers are Cups
five lines long, greenifh, three lines diameter, divided into two Lips deep.
purple, the uppermoft of which is feparated into two roundifh parts, ter-
minated in a point, underneath which are two other little parts of the
fame colour. The Cup of thefe Flowers is a Bafin of one fingle piece,
divided into five rounded parts, from the bottom of which rifes a Piftile.
terminated by a pretty long Thred : this Piftile joints in with the Flower
by way of Gomphofis, like the Teeth in the Jaws, and afterwards becomes
a Cod four lines long, almofl round, terminating in a point hard, prickly,
brown, which opens in two parts, and difeovers two Cells full of black
Seeds pretty fmall. This Plant grows in the clifts of the Rocks along
the Sca-lhore, and is not rare in the other Iflands of the Archipelago : it
is bitter, and fmelis ill.

HELIO TR OP IV M, humi fufum, flore minimo, femine magno. Co-
rol. Inft. Rei Herb. 7.

ITS Root is about two inches long, no more than one line thick,
hairy, white, and puts forth feme Stalks that creep wholly upon the.
grouud, the longeft of which are above half a foot, pale green, hairy,,

full

174 ./? "Voyage into /7j* Levant.

full of Branches, with Leaves alrnoft oval, half an inch long, fonr lines
broad, thofe alio a pale green, hairy, vein'd, and of the lame texture
with thofe of the Wart-wort, but of a much fourer tafte : they do not
diminiih towards the top, .except juft at the fummits, where they are but
two or three lines long. All the Branches end in an Ear like a Scorpion's
Tail, from an inch to fifteen lines long, laden with two Rows of white
Flowers, of the lame figure as thofe of the common kind ; but their Bafln
is fcarce half a line broad : the bottom of it is greenifh, and the Rims
cut into ten points, five alternately bigger one than the other. The Piftile
is accompany'd with four Embryos, but ufually moit of thefe Embryos
are abortive \ and when the Flower is gone, you find nothing but one Tin-
gle Seed a line and a half long, rifing out on one fide, flat on the other,
pointed at one end, cover'd with a whitifh Skin, under which is another
almofl: black, which covers a fort of Cod, full of white Pith. This
Plant grows in the fields round the Port.

■

SCO R Z^O N ERA Gr.eca, faxatilis & tmritima, foltis varie hcimntis,
Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. 36.

THE Root, which is a foot long, as thick as a Man's Thumb, not
very fibrous, produces a Stalk a foot and a half high, ftrait, brittle, hairy,
.{triped, pale green, full of Sap, the lower part furnifh'd with Leaves
hairy alio, fliff^ feven or eight inches long, three or four inches broad,
cut in deep as far as the Stalk, and notch'd unequally about the edges;
Thofe Leaves that grow at the upper end of the Stalks, lie very far one
from t'other, are much fmaller, rais'd with a large white Rib in the fame
manner as the lowermoft ones : the laft Leaves are fmall, and notch'd only
about the rims ; the Stalks lometimes divide themielves into Branches
almofl; naked, each of which fupports a Flower of an inch and half dia-
meter, yellow, like that of the common Vipers-grafs : the Demi-fleurons are
one inch long, fiflulous, and white at their firft fpringiug, obtufe and notch'd
at their extremity, garnifh'd at the opening of the Fiftula with a kind of a
Sheath a-crofs, which runs a Thred with two Horns : each Fleuron bears
upon an Embryo of Seed, thin and barbed. The Calix or Cup is fhaped
like a little Pear, an inch long, feven or eight lines thick, cover'd with
ieveral Scales that are pale green or reddifh towards the middle, but white

and

/:•/. j.

J'af.JfJ

Defcriptim of tfo IJland of Naxia. 1 75

and finall towards the edges : the Demi-fleurons are about twenty lines Letter V?
long, white and fiftulous in the Gup, yellow elfewhere, jut out about an inch,
fquare, notch'd at the point, two lines broad. From the Fiftula arifes a
Sheath three lines long, which lets out a yellow Thredfork'd with Horns
curling downwards. Each Demi-fleuron bears upon an Embryo of Seed,
white, a line long, which comes in time to be a Seed greyifh, hairy,
near a line thick, channel'd, two lines and a half long, pointed at bot-
tom, full of a white Pulp : this Seed is a little crooked, adorn'd with a
tuft nine or ten lines long, of a dingy white approaching to red, pretty
dry and brittle, confifting of a dozen hairs. Thus by the Structure of
the Seed, this Plant may be rang'd under the Genus of Catanance.

"THE Height of the Mountain ZJa invited us to make a geographical
Station upon it. After regulating our univerfal Quadrant, we obferv'd

that, V"'-;! ~ tm^r ■■-■

Stenofa lies to the Eaft-North-Eaft. Acmes, a Rock between Naxia

and Stenofa, is uponthe lame Line, but much nearer to Naxia.
Amorgos is to the Eaft«-South-Eaft, asalfo are CheuozadCopriez,
Nicouria is between the Eaft and Eaft-South-Eaft.
Stampalia to the South^Eaft.

Skinofa between the South-South-Eaft and the South.
Raclia between the South and the South-Weft.
Nio between the South-South-Weft and the South-Weft.
Sikino to the South- Weft.

Volicand.ro between the South-Weft and the Weft-South-Weft, -
Santorin between the South and South-South-Weft.
Milo between the Weft-South-Weft and Weft.
Nicaria between the North-Eaft and the North-North- Eaft.
Samos between the North-Eaft and the Eaft-North-Eaft.
Vatmos to the North-Eaft.

Tinos between the North-Weft and the North-North- Weft.
Mycone between the North-North- Weft and the North.
• The two Iflands of Delos, the lame as Tinos.
Andros between the Weft-North- Weft and the North- Weft.

Sjra

ij6

A Voyage into the Levant

•

Sjra to the North- Weft.
Thermit to the Weft-North- Weft.
Paros to the Weft.
N*nfio to the South-South-Eaft.

I am, My Lord, &c.

■

■

\

p

.

-

LET-

■

( I77 }

' ■

LETTER VI.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.

My Lord,

HHHf? E fct out from Naxos the 15th of September, withdeilgn to go Definition «/
1 to Patmos, to vifit the Grotto where 'tis thought St. John Lm^Ni-^

wrote the Apocalypfe ; but the ' South-Well Wind obliged us couri*> ,Amor-

r J t > o gos, Caloyero,

to put in at ' Stenofa, a fcurvy dangerous Roek uninhabited, cheiio, ski-
and not above ten or twelve miles about. Stenofa is Eaft-North-Eaft, Nk>,' sikin'oj
eighteen miles from Naxos, reckoning from Cape to Cape : for from one satwrif Nan-
Port to t'other, it is 36. There's nothing in' Stenofa but a Sheep-fold, a fio> Mycone.
Iheltring-place for five or fix poor Goat-herds, who for fear of falling ' Labech-AW-
into the clutches of the Corfairs or Banditti, betake themfelves to the ijifnd. ""
Rocks at fight of the leatt Cock-boat. Once in three months Bilcuit is
fent to thele miferable Wretches : ;they can hardly find Water in the
Illand, which however is fertile in fine Plants, and cover'd with Len-
tisks, Kerms, and Ciftus's. It belongs to the Community of Amorgos.

BAD Weather detaining us at Stenofa longer than we expected, and
our Provifions beginning to fail, we were reduced to make Pottage
with Sea-Snails, and we had leifure enough to direct them : they are far
better than the Goats-eye Shell-fiih, if eaten raw ; and preferable to
Land-Snails, if boil'd. It was the only Ragou this Iiland fupply'd us
with ; for we had neither Nets, nor Hooks for fiihing : and the Goat-
herds taking us for Banditti, durft not come near us, tho our Sailors, who
knew not where to look for frefh Water, had difplay'd all the white

' Vol. I. A a Rags

178 -^Voyage into the Levant.

Rags they could mufter up, as a Token that we were peaceable
Folks.

THE Sea-Snails are of the fame kind with thofe in our Gardens ; their
Shell is much of the fame form and fize, but near a line in thicknefs. It
is a mining Naker within, the Outfide is mod commonly cover'd with a
tartarous greyifh Bark, under which the Naker is marbled with black
Spots, chequer-wife : fome there are without a Bark. This Filh, which
keeps a long time out of water, trails ov«r the Rocks, and draws its
Horns jufl as a Land-Snail: they are (lender, five or fix lines long, con--
filling of longitudinal Fibres, with two Planes external and internal, in-
terfpers'd with fome Rings or annular Mufcles ; by the playing of thefe
Fibres, the Horns go in or out as the Creature lifts. The Forepart of
this Snail is a large Mufcle or Plaftron cut beneath in manner of a Tongue,
towards the Root whereof is faften'd a round Blade, fine as a Carp's
Scale, mining, fupple, four lines broad, reddifh, mark'd with feveral con-
centrical Circles. The Plaftron is fo faften'd by its Root to the Shell
that the Creature can't be parted from it till after 'tis boiJ'd ; then it
comes out intire, and 'tis perceivable that this Root bending backwards,
anfwers to the turning of the Snail. In its interior Surface, the Plaftron,
which is hollow'd gutter-wile, fupports the Vifcera of the Creature wrapt
up in a fort of Purfe like a Worm of a Gun, where concludes the Con-
duit of the Mouth.

THE Ifle of Stenofa would not deferve to be mention'd, were it not
for fome rare Plants it produceth, and efpecially a kind of Ptarmica, which
we no where elfe met with : this Plant is fo rare, that I can't difpenfe
with giving a defcription of it.
Ptarmica i X S Root is ligneous, greyifh towards the neck, three or four lines
lis criftatis. thick, accompany'd with reddifh Fibres, about half a foot long, crooked
uZt.'-'f.' R" and hairy : it puts forth feveral Heads, where grow in bunches very white
Leaves, two inches and a half long, on which are rang'd fometimes al-
ternately, and fometimes in couples, other Leaves two or three lines
long, one line and a half broad, flafh'd like a Cock's Comb, cottony,
white, aromatick, bitter : from thefe Heads grow Stalks nine or ten
inches high, one line thick, cottony likewife, white, garniih'd with fome
Leaves like the undermoft, but imaJJer. : each of thefe Stalks is terminated

by

/;■/./.

Jiiy.jys.

N

VcV-X.

r^,/- ',7.9:

Defer iption of the Tjland of Nicouria. 179

by a Bunch, an inch broad, flat above, confuting of feveral Flowers very Letter VI.
thick &t, fupported by unequal Tails ; the Cup of thefe Flowers is two ^7~v~***>
lines long, one line broad, with manifold Scales, white, hairy, pointed,
thefe embrace the Fleurons and Demi-fleurons as ufual : the Fleurons are
a pale yellow, flafh'd into five points ; the Demi-fleurons of the lame
colour, a line broad. All thefe pieces are borne on the Embryos, which
afterwards become flat Seeds, half a line long, fbmewhat more narrow,
brown, with a whitifh Border, feparated from each other by little mem-
branous Leaves, folded up gutter-wife.

THIS fine Plant comforted us for the Irkfbmnefs of abiding fb long
in fo difmal a place. The North- Wind a fecond time made us lay afide
our Defign of going to Patmos. There's no wreftling againft Molus ; he
threw us towards the Ifle of Amorgosy which well deferves a Traveller's
Obfervation : but the Sea running high, we put in at Nicouria^ a fteep
Rock within a mile of Amorgos.

NICOVRIA is a Block of Marble in the midfl of the Sea, not very Nicouria.
high, but about five miles in compafs ; on it is feen nothing but lean
knk-gutted Goats, and red Partridges of a wonderful beauty, which made
us amends for the fbrry Fare we met with at Stenofx : our Greeks made
horrid havock among 'em; dry and tough as they were, we thought 'em
as delicious as thofe of Perigord. As for Simpling, we made no great
hand of it here ; yet there are two undefcribed, tho they grow in fbme
other Iflands of Greece.

AS PARAGVS Creticus fruticoftu, crafjioribfu & brevioribus Actdeis
magno fratfu. Corol. Infl. Rei Herb. 21.

THIS Plant pufhes through the Chinks of the Rocks in long Stalks
from one to two foot long, about three lines thick, crooked, angulous,
greyifh, oftentimes curvated below, branchy from their birth, fubdivided
into feveral gutter'd Branches a line thick, yellow-green, inclining to a
fea-green, garnifh'd here and there with large Prickles in clutters: the
thickeft of thefe Prickles are feVen or eight lines long, one line thick ;
the others are half as fhort, but all are firm, yellow-pale, ftriped, red-
dilh, and fometimes blackifh at the point. From the Bafe of thefe Pric-
kles iffue feveral Flowers all along the Branches, fupported by very flender

A a 2 Tails:

180 A Voyage into the Levant.

Tails ; each Flower confifts of fix greyifli Leaves, inclining to a yellow
difpos'd like a Star, ufually turning back in the lower part, two lines and
a half long, one line broad, pointed and ftriped. The Piftile is a three-
corner'd Button, one line long, furrounded with fix Grieves or Threds
two lines long each, topt with a yellow Summit, the Flower fmells ram-
mifh. The Fruit is half an inch diameter, adorn'd with three round
rifings, pulpy, and feparated into three Cells, each fill'd with a fpherical
hard Seed. This Plant varies, there is a- fort whofe Prickles are an.
inch long.

J? JVM Gr*cum faxatile, Crithmi folio. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. 2 1.
THE Stalk of this Plant, which likewife iflues out of the Rocks
rifes to about two foot high, thick as one's little Finger, intercut with fe-
veral Knots, crooked, branchy, attended with feveral Clufters of thick
Cntfcmum,five Leaves, refembling thofe of the Percepierre which is pickled in Vinegar
maritimum half a foot long, three or four inches broad, fea-green, flelliy, brittle
mmus. c. . jjjyjjgd ancj fubdivided into three pieces, nine or ten lines long, one line
broad, pointed, an aromatick pungent tafte : the Bafis of thefe Leaves is
pleated gutter-wife, and invelops part of the Stalk, which is ftriped, full
of Pith, ufually thick fet with Branches below ; garnifh'd with Leaves
like the former, but not above two or three inches long ; thofe of the
Branches are not above an inch or an inch and a half long : all which
Branches and their Subdivifions terminate in clufters about two inches
round, whofe Rayons are but an inch and a half in height, hairy, as well
as the Summit of the Plant, and laden with other fmall clufters of Flowers
compos'd of five white Leaves, but one line and a half in length. The
Piftile, alias Pointal, and the Cup of thefe Flowers, turn to Seeds about a
line and a quarter long, greyifli, lefs than half a line broad, picked at
both ends, a little bending, gutter'd, bitter, aromatick.

'TIS on the fteepeft Rock of Nicouria, where this fine Plant grows:
it's ftrange that Plants, which are not to be feen in the Plain, fliould be
produced in places higher by many fathom than the reft of the Country.
rui'**'*- Being landed, we fail'd not to inquire for lbme Chappel of the Virgin;
well afTured we ihould find it in a Situation of the moft difficult accefs
and confequently fitteft for our Searches : the whole Devotion of the
Creek Populace confifts in vifiting thefe Chappels. It fweats'em as much

as

■

/My.

J"af.jSo.

Savati/t' \ 67'uA/nc

Defcription of the IJland of Nicouria. 18 1.

as a Bagnio, to get thither : and this Fatigue is juftly look'd upon by the Letter VL

Greeks as one of the fevered Penances that can be undergone in this.^*'r~v^>-'

World. There, diflblv'd in their own Greafe, they huddle over a dozen .

Signs of the Crofs, and as many Bowings of the Head and half the Body ; Stok^V.

then, if the Lamp is not lighted, they take out their Tinder-box, and to

work they go; burning two or three Grains of Frankincenfe on a broad.

flat Stone, kifling the Image of the Virgin, and the reft that are there :

thefe Images are not graven nor carv'd, for fuch they can't endure ; they

are a coarle Painting on pieces of gilded Wood. Such of 'em as are call'd'

Painters in this Country, not knowing how to dcfign, make ufe of a,

Draught prick'd and rubb'd over with Coal-dud, to delineate the Features

of the Figures ; thefe Draughts are perpetuated by Tradition from Father

to Son ever flnce the time of St. Luke; for all their Madonna's are in*.

the Attitude of that Saint. While the Incenfe is burning, thefe Inno- -

cents recommend their Affairs to the Virgin,, and look out for a. Papas to

fay Mafs ; there's nothing amifs fo far : but how ridiculous is it for them

to expoftulate with the Virgin and Saints, if things don't go as they'd

have 'em ! The good Women bring with 'em for the mod part a Pot of

Oil for the Lamp, or a fine Wax Taper ; or elfe they leave behind 'cm a

Parat in the bottom of the Lamp, to buy Oil with, to burn before the

Image.

BUILDING being an eafy Expence in this Country, 'tis common -
for the Greeks on their Death-bed to bequeath a fcore of Crown-pieces
for the ereding a Chappel : this is what makes all the Iflands fo thick fet
with fuch Edifices. To the great fcandal of Chriftianity, there are fcarce-
any other places for Travellers to lodge in ; here they put up their Lug-
gage and Merchandize : here they drefs their Victuals, and likewife make
their beds ; a Cuftom of very great antiquity. Diana, and Juno ufed often \ .
to complain of their Temples being profaned ; God preferve the Chappels
we are fpeaking of, from the like. None but the Greeks of the Latin.
Rite can give any account of their Belief, or the Worfhip of the true •
God : and they too know but little of the matter. Such as do not con-
verfe with our MuTionaries, are as ignorant as the mofl favage Barbarians.
The whole Qualification of the Papas lies in infpiring them with an
Horroux to the Roman Church,

THIS,

1 82 A Voyage into the Levant

THIS, you'll fay, is a Digreffion very foreign to an Account of Ni*
cottria, where there's not a Man either of the Latin or Greek Communion ;
but pray, what can be faid of an Ifland unknown to the Antients and
Moderns, and which befides affords nothing uncommon, nothing fingft-
lar ? And therefore we only flaid there to take breath, and then pafs'd
over to Amorgos by night.

Amorous, JMORGO S is not famed in antient Hiflory for the Valour of its

amorgos2' Inhabitants ; they were rather devoted to the Arts of Peace : and hereof

AMOpn- we have very confiderable proofs. Goltz,im mentions two Medals of

nan. Jpollo's Head, the Reverfe of the one is an Aftronomical Sphere refting

on a Tripos; of the other, the Reverfe is likewife a Sphere and a Pair of

CompafTes : thereby indicating, that the People of this Ifland apply'd

thernfelves to the Study of Ailronomy and Geometry.

THEY had once a Manufa&ury of a fort of Stuff which bore the

name of the Ifland, as did likewife the red Colouring it was dy'd with.

SuidJsEtymoi. The Tunicks of Amorgos were much in requeft : they were call'd Amorgis,

Pol! lib. 7. as likewife was the Flax' they were made of. It is agreed by Hefychius,

■ cap 16. -paufaniat cited by ' Eultathitts, and others, that this Stuff went by the

' Ad Verfum i ~^i ■ r rr ■ 1 1 i- t 1

$?6. Dion, name of Amorgos. There is iumxient ground to believe, that m dying it

et"s' red they made ufe of a fort of Lichen, which is very common among

the Rocks of this Ifland, and thofe of Nicouria. This Plant is flill fold

for ten Crowns the Hundred Weight, and is tranfported to Alexandria

and England, where the Dyers ufe it, as we do the Pare/le of Awvergne.

To give a defcription of this Lichen, (which I think no body elfe has

yet done ;)

■lichen &«- IT grows in clutters, greyifh, two or three inches long, divided into

d«! dnftoriw. ^a3i^- Slips as fine as a Horfe-hair, and fplitting into two or three little

coroi. infl. Ret Horns, flender at firft, rounded and ftiff ; but afterwards near a line in

Uirb. 40. ' »

thicknefs, hooked like a Sickle, and terminating fbmetimes in two points.
The whole Plant is folid, white, of a fait tafte : it is no fcarce Plant in
the other Iflands of the Archipelago, but its Ufe in Dying is known only

at Amorgos.

ST R A BO makes this Ifland to be the Birth-place of the Poet Simo-
nides, fb famed for his Iambicks. Stephens the Geographer informs us,

that

Defcription of the Ijland of Amorgos. 1 83

that the antient Towns of Amorgos were call'd Arcefwe, Minoa, /Egiale ; Letter VI-
the Ruins that are to be feen about the Weftern Bay, are the Remains of ,*>~v~v-»
fpme of thefe Towns ; but of which, there's no certain determination
£anbe made, without the help of Infcriptions, and we met with but two
Stumps of Columns in a Chappel in the lower Town. The Southern k*t*™'a/<.
Harbour is the belt they have : and here it was, according to all appea- **"**•*

J ' ' ° l *■ Fortuna Alex.

ranee, that Clitus the Lydian, Admiral of Polyfperchorfs Fleet, grafping a Orat. 2.
Trident in his hand, aflumed the Name of Neptune, after he had fonk£0't°hd,^Kb'
three or four of Ant lochias Galleys. llb- 18>

HER AC LIDES agrees that Amorgos was very productive of Wine, Amorgus vlni,
Oil, and other Commodities : for which reafon, Tiberius baniih'd Vibius fy tiiiflfma eft.
Serenus thither ; the Emperor being of opinion, that when a Man's Life De Poltt-
was granted him, he ihould not be deny'd NeceiTaries. ufus cui vita

THE Ifland of Amorgos is at prefent well improv'd : it yields f$££*22L
enough for its Inhabitants, and more than enough of Wine and Corn : Wi 4. '«p.3o»
this Fertility invites thither the Tartanes of Provence. The Ifland is not
above 36 miles about, and ftretches from North to South: it is terribly
ftsep towards the South-Eaft : the Burrough is three miles from the Well
Port, built in form of an Amphitheatre round a Rock, where (lands the
old Caftle of the Dukes of the Archipelago, who for a long time were
matters of Amorgos. The People are not of the Latin Church : there was
neither a Cadi nor a Vaivod on the Ifland when we were there ; their
Law-Suits were carry'd to Naxia or Stampalia : the former is thirty miles
fsom Amorgos, the latter fifty.

THE belt Places of Amorgos belong to the Monaftery of the Virgin, nw/crfcu
whither they come from afar to affifl: at Mais : for all extraordinary Situa-
tions ftrike Devotion into the Populace. Three miles from the Burgh,
on the edge of the Sea, is built a large Houfe, which at a diftance refem-
bles a Cheft of Drawers fix'd toward the bottom of a hideous Rock, na-
turally perpendicular, and exceeding in height that of La Sainte Baume in
Provence. This Cheft of Drawers does however afford convenient Lodg-
ing to a hundred Caloyers ; but there's no entring without very good Re-
commendation, and by a fmall Opening contriv'd in one of the corners
of the Building, the Door of it cover'd with Iron Plates. Within is a
Guard-Room furnilh'd with huge wooden Clubs like that of Hercules,

fit

1%

A Voyage into the Levant

fit to knock down an Ox at a blow : there did not feem to be much

need of this Precaution ; for with a Kick of a Foot they might eafily

turn off a Man from the top of the Ladder by which they afcend to this

Door. The Ladder has a dozen wooden Rounds, without reckoning

iome ftone Steps againft which it refts. After this, you pafs up a very

narrow Staircafe; but neither the Cells nor the Chappel are cut in the

Rock, as hath been reported. The Religious aiTured us, that their

Houfe was built by the Emperor Comnenius, who likewife handfbmly en-

Coirtuberna- dow'd it j lam not flack to believe as much : Anne Comnenius, his Daugh-

•rtbiiioribus ter, takes notice that the Mother of that Prince had caus'd him to be

SSSiS- bred up in a Monaftery till the day of his Marriage. Thofe of Amorgos

tris quoad „jye out that this Foundation was occafion'd by a miraculous Imaee of

uxorem diixit. O ' J O

siiexMd.iib.i. che Virgin painted on Wood, which they keep in their Chappel for a
mighty Relick ; pretending that this Image being profaned in the Ifle of
Cyprus, and broke in two pieces, was conveyM in a fupernatural manner
by Sea to the foot of the Rock of Amorgos, where thefe two pieces
join'd themfelves again ; that the fame hath wrought, and does ftill work
divers Miracles. The Image feem'd to us to be altogether finoke-dry'd,
and of a very imperfect Defign : the Caloyers that keep it, are very flo-
wenly ; their Houfe has the Savour of a mufty Guard-Room, and this Con-
vent looks more like a Harbouring-place for Highway-men, than a Re-
ligious Retreat. As there's no departing handfomly from a Monaftery
without bellowing fomething by way of Benefaction, we dropt them a few
-vius uva per- Pieces, and the Monks regaled us with a Plate of Grapes, the Bunches
maximis"^- whereof were about a foot long ; each Berry almoft oval, fifteen or eigh-
b\\S-' *ibus'd' "teen ^nes *on§' wniri'n §reen> exceeding fweer, and of an exquifite tafte.
.11 Wt», »<* fA This Convent having nothing about it but the Sea and frightful Rocks, I
giS'corum re- could not forbear asking the Monks whence they had luch fine Fruit:
' 7"™; Rei -they anfwer'd, from another part of the Ifland near a Chappel, where
^2- >vvas preferv'd that famed Urn, which at a certain time of the Year fills
it felf with Water, and then empties it felf again.

CHRISTIANITY has not alter'd the fabulous Difpofition of the

Greeks : On the morrow we went to the Chappel, to iatisfy our felves

•concerning this Prodigy, and to eat of thofe fine Grapes. St. George Bai-

[ami, fo is the Chappel call'd, is four miles off the Town, on the left ot

the

Defer iption of the Ifland of Amorgos. 185

the Weft Port, clofe to an Orchard of Fruit-Trees terraced, at the fur- Letter VI*

ther end of a Kitchen- Garden vvater'd with a fmall Spring, among a parcel ^'^^VJ

of well-cultivated Vineyards : a charming Abode, as we thought, for a

Papas. Tho the Chappel is no more than fifteen foot long, and ten

broad, yet it is divided into three Naves with good Walls, as if 'twere a

large Church ; but the Side-Naves are fo narrow, that but one Perfon can

pad in front. You enter the Chappel by a corner of the Nave on the

left ; and we prelently fpying a Spring of Water over againfl the Door,

judg'd that this pretended Miracle was not difficult to be explain'd.

This Spring, which is a very little one, is reftrain'd in a Confervatory

five foot four inches long, two foot eight inches broad ; the Water was

not then above a foot deep : fix paces from it, below a Clofet wrought in

the fame Nave, is bury'd even with the Surface of the Earth, the fb much

celebrated Urn, which is confulted as the Oracle of the Archipelago : it is

a VefTel of Marble almoft oval, about two foot high, fixteen inches broad ;

the Opening of it, which is round, and eight inches diameter, is cover'd

with a piece of Wood faflen'd by an Iron Bar placed crofs-wife.

THE Clofet is more carefully fhut, and they never open it till you
have given 'em fome Mony towards faying Maffes ; we were not fhort in
our refpects of that kind, and fo had the pleafure to fee the Urn uncover'd
and to mealure the Water, which was feven inches nine lines deep : but
they would not let us fearch further, nor examine the bottom of the
Urn, which is cover'd with Mud. The Papas only told us it was the
ordinary Depth of the Water : we pray'd him then to explain to us the
Secret of this mighty Miracle. It confifts, faid he, in that the Water
riles and finks feveral times in the Year. 'Twas anf wer'd, that the Over-
plus of the Confervatory, which is clofe to it, might more or lefs pais
through the Earth, and be infenfibly imbibed by that Marble, which was
no more than an inch thick, and perhaps crack'd at the bottom : this
place is very dark, and the Urn muft be empty'd e'er it can be Well
fearch'd into ; for Father Richard afferts, that the bottom of this Veflel De<"c>'pt. de
is nothing but white Clay. The Papas thought it enough to tell us it
was a great Miracle.

WE defiredhimto tell us, whether 'twas true that the Urn was fill'd

fometimes in the fpace of half an hour, and empry'd it i'elf vifibly feveral

Vol. I. B b times

1 86

A Voyage inta the Levant.

Hiftory of the times a day in the fame fpace : whether 'twas true, that in a moment 'twas

Duk«s of the r c u ,, , '"', '

ArunHligo. io full as to run over, and the next moment lo dry, as if there never had
been a drop of Water in it : the good Man diftrufting us, and not being
(6 great a Fool as he feem'd to be, anfwer'd, That we needed but tarry a
little time to have ocular Demonftration ; that as for himfelf, he had never
feen it either quite full or quite empty, but that it was the EfFecl: of a
Miracle, and oi the Virtue of the Great 6Y. George ; that fuch as came to
coniult the Urn, before they undertook any Bufinefs of Importance, mii-
carry'd if the Water was lower than ufual ; that as for us, we ought to
rejoice it was otherwife when we came. We tarry'd about two hours in
the Neighbourhood of the Chappel, to make Draughts of Plants, or eat
Grapes ; detaching from time to time lome one of us, with a Wax-Candle
in his hand, to go and lee whether the Water role or fell : but it con-
ftantly anfwer'd our Plumb-Line, which was a Stick gaged at feven inches
nine lines deep. In fine, we thought we could not do better than abide
by the Explication given us of it by our Servant ; he was a Lad of good
Senfe, and perceiving we were under fome perplexity concerning this
Myftery, without recurring to the Tranipiration of the Water through

Tiutctyisb the Earth and Marble, without naming St. George or the Virgin Mtry9
told us with great Indifference, that the Papas, to make his own Pot boil,
had the Art to empty and fill this Urn out of the Conlervatory, with his
Pot-Ladle, whenever he met with fuch as were willing to be impos'd on,
as are for the greateft part thole who hunt after miraculous things

THIS blunt Speech made us laugh. We took our leaves of the Pa-
pas, who judging by our Behaviour that we wanted Faith concerning the
Urn, came in hafte after us, to tell us a convincing Story of it. A cer-
tain Greek Bifhop, laid he, with his pockets full of Gold, was going to
Conjtantinople) to purchaiefbme more confiderable Dignity, and by the
way had a mind firft to coniult the Urn, as to the Succefs of his Voyage 5
but he found it almofl empty. Mortify'd at this, he fpent four or rive
days in Prayer and Lamentation : the Papas feeing him fo dilpirited^
pioufly relolv'd to pour a good Pot-full of Water into the Urn, but to
his own great furprize, when he brought the Bilhop to vifit it, he found
the Water juft as low as before. They redoubled their Prayers to the
great St. George; nay, they went to the principal Convent, to conjure

the

7 U.I

J^.aS7

( \ia&nu/7i Dtctamsu. Cretid

*%;?/<•/,' ^S?>//1~ cr&zjtT rums tiY/cjo-
X&unc c//a/w- (?vv//.2rtjt. Jt?(

, AV-r

Defcription of the IJland of Amorgos. 187

the Virgin to fend Water. Would ye think it, Gentlemen, (continuM Letter VI.
our Papas with an Air of AfTurance) the Water one fine Morning was ^^Krs^-J
found there in great plenty. The Billiop departed, after returning a thou-
fand thanks, and was no fooner arriv'd at Paros, than he was inform'd to
his exceeding great comfort, that while he was at Amorgos, that is, while
there wds a Failure of the Water, the Sea was cover'd with Corfairs,
who meeting with nd Prize, had faiPd away, fome to the Morea, others
towards the Gulph of Thejfalonica. Furthermore, added he, our holy
Urn favours the Privateers, whether they be Chriftians or Barbarians:
they make us mad when they come to confult the great St. George, who
is the true General of the Heavenly Militia, and not St. Michael otSerpha, A?^rf*w^?.
as is pretended by the Caloyers of that ifland. After this fine Difeourfe,
which we made no other reply to than bowing our heads, we took our
leaves^ very well fatisfy'd with each other : the Papas, that he had rela-
ted to us his Story, and we with difcovering the Frauds of the Monks,
and Credulity of the People who are thus abusM in the Countries of Ig-
norance and Superftition.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are affable, and the Women pretty •
their Head-drefs is a Scarf of yellow Linen, which covers the upper part
of the Head and lower part of the Face, winding; it afterwards in manner
of a Turbant, with one of the ends hanging down the back : the Appa-
rel of thefe Ladies is as ridiculous here as in the other Iflands. We ihall
by and by give a defcription of the different parts of it.

WE rauft not leaVe Amorgos, Without defcribing one of the rareft
Plants in all the Archipelago : we found it no where but in the Slits of that
horrid Rock, where Hands the Convent of the Virgin.

ORIGANVM Ditfamni Cretici facie, folio craffo, nunc villofo, nunc
glabro. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. ij.

I T S Root is fometimes thick as a Man's Thumb, ligneous, about a
foot long, brown, chapt, reddiih within, attended with hairy crooked
Fibres ; it puts forth ibme Heads, whence arife Stalks eight or nine
inches thick, fquare, fea-green, fome of them plain, others branchy,
garnifh'd with clofe-fet Leaves, oppos'd in couples, round or oval, termi-
nating infenfibly in points alrhoft like a Gothick Arch, nine or ten lines

.;

long, much like thofe of Cretan Dittany : but of the Leaves of the Ori

Bb 2 ganum

1 88 A Voyage into the Levant.

ganum we are mentioning, fome are iometimes thick as the Coin call'd a
Double, flefhy, and fleek ; the others thinner, and flightly hairy i {bme
are infipid, others poignant, odoriferous : they do not leiTen except to-
wards the top of the Branches and Stalks, which commonly divide them-
felves into two Ears, where they conclude in a fingle one : each Ear is
fifteen or twenty lines long, five or fix lines broad, form'd by four Rows
of Scales of a wamy purple, oval-pointed, four or five lines long. After
thefe grow Flowers which open fucceflively, nine or ten lines long : they
are Pipes or Tubes half a line long, whitiih, widening into two Lips, the
upper whereof is two lines and a half long, obtufe, and bent gutterwife :
the undermoft is of the lame bignefs, rounded and divided into three
obtufe parts, terminated behind by a Spur half a line long ; the Chieves
are longer than the upper Lip, but of the lame colour, and charg'd with
Summities divided into two Purfes. The Cup is a Tube two lines and a
half long, yellow-green, cut like a Flute, in the bottom whereof ripen
two or three Seeds very fmall, blackifh ; for of four Embryo's which are
at the bottom of the Piftile, there are always fome which mifcarry. Thefe
Seeds have thriven in the Royal Garden, where the Plant is not at all
chang'd by Culture : it is eafily preferv'd in a Green-houfe, where, with
other Aromatick Plants, it requires now and then a new Air warm'd bv
the Sun-beams.

THE Ifland of Amorgos wants Wood ; they burn nothing but Maflick

Cedrus folio and Cyprefs-leav'd Cedar, which the Fire conlumes in an inftant. The

jor/fruftufla- Greeks makeufe of this Cedar to go a fifhing, or rather a fpearing with :

piff.en*t/k.'B' ^ey break it into fmall pieces, which they lay over a Gridiron at the

Stern of their Gaily -boat, and burn it in the night-time, thereby to draw

the Fifh to 'em by means of the Light it calls, which while the Fifh are

following, they ftrike 'em with their Tridents or three-fork'd Javelins :

this Wood is brought to Amorgos from Calojero, Chtiro, Skinofa, and other

adjoining Rocks.

caloyero. THE 2 2d of September, aswepafs'd clofe by Caloyero, an ugly Rock
K*&CoxjJ?n<- twelve miles from Amorgos, the Mailer of our VelTel would needs climb
^bTlT^tr\f ODe °f *ts ^arP P°mts to take fome young Falcons out of the Nell ; we
the skiff. did not dare to follow him ; this Man not only knew how to run up the

^ Shrouds,

JU.T-

JPa^^iS S

Description of the IJland of Caloyero. 189

Shrouds, but would fcale the fteepeft Rocks with a fiirprizing Agility : Letter VI.
we defir'd him therefore to bring us all the Plants he could light of, aflu- vu*~v"s,&~»
ring him we would willingly refign to him our fhare of the Falcons. He
accordingly brought us fbme Plants, which we could have prefer'd to all
the Birds of Paradife in Arabia. The Defcription of one of thefe beauti-
ful Plants, take as follows :

LVNA RIA fruticofa, peretwii, incana, Leucoii folio. Corol. Inft.
Rei Herb. 15.

IT has a Root as thick as a Man's Thumb, reddifh, chapt, accom-
pany'd with long hairy Fibres : its Stalks are ligneous, about a foot tall,
cover'd with a Coat reddiih and chapt underneath, whitifh afterwards,
garnifh'd at firfl with many clufters of Leaves like thole of the white Vio-
let Plant, bufhy, an inch or eighteen lines long, four or five lines broad,
cottony, white, without either taile or fmell : they lefTen along the Stalks,
which grow in length in form of an Ear of Corn, charg'd with Flowers
confuting of four yellow Leaves, nine or ten lines long, oval at that end
which is oppofite to their tail. This Flower is cover'd with a Cup con-
fifting of four white Leaves, the Cup inclofes a Piftile of the fame colour, .
oblong, terminated by a fmall Head, and furrounded with Chieves with
yellow tops : when the Flower is gone, this Piftile or Peftle turns to a
Fruit almoft oval, about an inch high, eight or nine lines broad, quite
flat, cottony and white, in the frame whereof are faftea'd one or two
Seeds flat, reddifh, round, about two lines in diameter, edg'd with a
clearer Leaf, very fine, a little floping in the Cut. The Flefh of this
Seed, which likewife is brown, is bitter and of a hot tafte. This Plant
blows in the beginning of the Spring, but bears no good Seed in the
Royal Garden.

WE anchor'd at the Ifle of Cheiro, within Musket-fhot of Caloyero 7 c h e 1 r o.
the Falcons were there eaten according to the Cuftom cf the Levant,
where they never let their Meat mortify : the Flefh of thefe Birds is
white, delicate, and of an excellent tafte ; they would be marvellous,
if roafted and larded : we eat ours broil'd over the Coals, and without
either Pepper or Vinegar. Cheiro is a defart Ifland eighteen miles about ;
here the Monks of Amorgos fend their Caloyers at the time of Cheefe-

making.

ipo A Vovage into the Levant

making. They breed here abve 500 Goats or Sheep; We obferv'd a
rare kind of Campanula.

CAM PA NVLJ faxatilif, folia Inferior thus Belli dis, ceteris Nummula-
ris. Corol. Inft, Rei Herb. j.

ITS Root is thick as a Man's Thumb, infinuating into the Clefts of
the Rocks, white, fweet, full of Milk ; its firft Leaves are like thole of
the little Daizy, difpos'd in a round dark green, mining, two inches and
a half long, half an inch broad : thofe that accompany the Stalks, are
more like the Leaves of the Money-wort or Nummularis and are flefhy,
fleek, bright green, eight or nine lines long, terminating infeafibly in a
point, luftain'd by a very fhort Tail, thick let on the Stalks about eight or
nine inches long, and which often hang from the Clefts of the Rocks, a
line thick, milky, and full of white Marrow. From the Bafis of the
Leaves grow along the Stalks, Flowers like a Bell, feven or eight lines
long, four or five lines broad, wafhyblue, flafh'd in five parts like a Go-
thick Arch ; the Peflle comes forth from the bottom of this Flower, white,
and terminated in an anchor with three Crampirons or Hooks, furrounded
at the Bale with five Chieves, white, laden each with a yellow Summit,
yery narrow. The Cup is a Bafon five lines long, dark green, three lines
broad, purfled on five fides, flafh'd into five points ftar-like : it becomes
a Fruit with three Apartments fill'd with Seeds, reddifh brown, fleek, po-
lifh'd, fhining, oval, a third of a line in length. The whole Plant is
infipid.

s k 1 k o s a. A F T E R we had made the Tour of Cheiro, we pafs'd over to Skinoft,

another defert Rock, twelve miles about, eight miles from Cheiro, and

twelve from Naxia. Skinofa, for aught appears to the contrary, is the

Hift. Nat. ifle Skinuffa mark'd by Pliny to be near Naxos and Pholegandros. The

' ' ~ '«/ Greeks doubt not that Skinofa took its Name from its abounding with

5,M^S^»» -Tic J O

fj&> Maftick-Trees, tho this Tree is not more common in Skinofa than in the

rt?us?f' Len adjoining Iflands. There remains in Skinofa nothing but the Rubbifh of
a ruin'd Town, affording no one thing worth obfervation ; which occa-
fion'd our flaying but two hours there, to fearch for Simples.

THE Ferula of the Antients grows very plentiful in this Ifland; it
Nct'f5«^ has preferv'd its old Name among the modern Greeks, who call it Nartheca,

from

/^/■-z-

/W ■-».<?'

T)efcriptim of the Ijland of Skinofa. 19 r

froin Nartbex. ' It bears a Stalk five foot high, three inches thick, everyLetter VE
ten inches there's a Knot ox Knurr, branchy at each Knot, cover'd with ^^(T^
a hard Bark two lines thick : the Hollow of this Stalk is full of white 'Jf"** slnuco
Marrow, which being well dry'd, takes fire like a Match ; this Fire holds n-aflkmo ad
^ good while, and confqmes the Marrow very gently, without damaging raniofofcum-
the Bark; which makes them ule this Plant in carrying fire from one belIlfero- Ce-

J ° rol. Infl. Ret

place to another ; our Sailors laid in good ftore of it. This Ule is of the ««-*• 22.
earlieft Antiquity, and may help to explain a Paffage in Htfiod ; who ej>»»ia«»n«?-
fpeaking of the Fire which Prometheus ftole in Heaven, fays, that he 0lT& Dies! '
brought it in a Ferula. The Foundation of this Fable doubtlefs proceeds ver'-';2*

Clin Prnm*»

from Prometbeus's being the Inventor of the * Steel that ftrikes fire from tha mimere
|he Flint. In all probability Prometheus made ule of the Marrow of the ^",v. al!'
Ferula inftead of a Match, and taught Men how to preferve Fire in the ''*• **«
Stalks of this Plant. sw."2T"

THE Stalks are flrong enough to be lean'd upon, but too light to ^blioth- Hlft-
hurt in ftriking : and therefore Bacchus, one of the greatefl Legiilators of idem, lib. 3..
Antiquity, wifely ordain'd the firfl Men that drank Wine, to make ule of
Canes of this Plant, becaufe being heated with exceflive drinking, they 'f'^ $ <&>
would often break one another's Heads with the ordinary Canes. The Pl«. i^^.
Priefts of the lame God iupported themlelves on thefe Stalks when they
walk'd j and Pliny oblerves, that this Plant is greedily eaten by AiTes, ***■ **■
tho to other Beafls, of Burden 'tis rank Poifon : we could not try the
Truth of this Obiervation, there being nothing but Sheep and Goats on.
the Ifland. The Ferula of Italy and France differs from that of Greece ;
therefore when ' Martial faid, that the Ferula was the Pedant's Scepter, ' £nifePBr

r triftes fceptra-

becaufe they ule it in the correcting of their Scholars, he. doubtlefs meant Pa=dagogo:iim
that fort which grows in Italy, France, and Spain, on the Coaits of the to. Epm-ami.
Mediterranean.

THIS cf Greece ferves now-a-days to make low Stools of: they
take the dry'd Stalks, of this Plant, and by alternately placing 'em in
length and breadth, they form 'em into Cubes, fatten' d at the four cor-
ners with Pegs of Wood : thefe Cubes are the Vifiting-Stools of the
Ladies of Amorgos. What a different ufe is this from that the Antients
put the Ferula to ? Plutarch and Strabo take notice, that Alexander kept
Homers Works in.dos'd in a Casket of Ferula, on account of. its Light-

nefs ■;

1 92 ^ Voyage into the Levant.

nefs : the Body of the Casket was made of this Plant, and then cover'd
with fome rich Stuff or Skin, fet off with Ribs of Gold, and adorn'd
with Pearl and precious Stones. We made incifions into fome Stalks of
the Ferula; the Milk which came out, as like wife the Clots which were
naturally form'd on other Stalks of the fame Plant, did not at all favour
oiGa.lba.num: this Drug proceeds from an umbelliferous Plant growing

Oreofelini»i» in Africa, which has been a long time preferv'd in the Royal Garden.

Gaibanifeium, and which I have lifted under the Tribe of Oreofelinum, from the Struc-

fiutefcens Ani- n . _

fi folio, mft. ture of its Fruit.

Rei Htrb. 3 19-

Racua. FR O M Skinofa we pafs'd to Raclia, another Rock at three miles
diftance, fituated between Naxia and Nio: we lay at Raclia the 23d of
September, defigning to fet out immediately for Nio ; but there run fb high
a Sea, we were forced to flay three days on this bale Rock, which is not
above twelve miles about ; whereas Nio is a very agreeable Ifland, and
much bigger. The Monks of Amorgos, who are mafters of Raclia, have
a Breed here of 8 or 900 Goats or Sheep ; there are not above two Ca-
loyers to look after them : thefe poor Caloyers live on black Bisket and
Shell-fifh ; their Cheefe is very good. Thefe Monks, who keep their
abode towards the top of the Mountain, near a very plentiful Spring of
Water, are every moment alarm'd by the Corfairs, who often land there
to catch a few Goats ; there hardly paffes a Saick, but the Seamen Ileal
one : in two days, our Seamen, who were but three in number, knock'd
o' th' head feven, and pick'd the bones of 'em. We went our felves and
inform'd the Caloyers, and paid them fifteen pence a-piece for the Goats :
pleas'd with this, rhey prcfented us a Cheefe, and a Goat which prov'd
very good, becaufe we let it mortify fome hours.

AT firft blufh it mould feem as if Raclia borrow'd its Name from He-
r raclea ; but befides that the antient Geographers make no mention of any
Jic'^tjv' Ifland of this Name, there's a great probability that this we're ipeaking
srtfh01&*^'of> vvas known by the Name of ' Nicafia, placed near Naxos, by Pliny
Suid. and others. Having but little to do at Raclia, we took occafion, while

im&Jwi i we waited for a Paflage to Nio, to make a Geographical Station on the
N/y^n* «*»- top 0f the higheft Rock in the Country : that is to fav, after we had
Euftat. ad well regulated our univerfal Quadrant, we ask'd the Caloyers the Names

vei-f.e^o. Dio- J

nyf. Peiieg. Of

Toil.

Defcription of the IJland of Raclia. 193

of the circumjacent Iflands, and obferv'd to what Point of the Compafs Letter VI.
they lay : we found +Jrm\T\j

Naxia to be North of Raclia.
Stenofa, North-North-Eaft.
Skinofa, North-Eaft.
Cbeiro, Eaft -North-Eaft.
Amorgos, Eaft.
St amp. ilia, South- Eaft.
Paros, North-Weft.
There are but two Cales or finall Ports at Raclia, the one North, over caianque, in
againft Naxia, the other North-North-Eaft : here we difiected foine of the ca •, k*^:-
Shell-fiih call'd ' Goats-eyes, of which we eat various forts. jTcreik™'"

.THE Shell of this Fifh is a Bafon of one intire piece A. about an . Lepas.
inch or two in diameter, almoft oval, eight or nine lines deep, form'd like
a Funnel, terminating in a point, filPd by a Fifh which at firft prefents
you with a large pectoral Mufcle B. greyiih brown, the Rims reddifh, and
flightly waved : the Surface of this Mufcle moves in little grains or par-
ticles juft as Water ieething over a fire before it boils ; this Surface is fup-
ple, cover'd with a gluey flabber-like Liquor : by all which, the Fifh is
fo fitted for infinuating it felf into the minuteft Inequalities of the Rocks,
.and will ftick thereto fofaft, that there's no making 'em quit their hold,
but with a fharp-pointed Knife. This Mufdc is tough as Whit-leather
about three lines thick, and generally an inch in length, exactly refem-
bling the pectoral Mufcle of your Land-Snails : the inner Surface C. of
the pectoral Mufcle is fleek, mining, hollow'd gutter-wife, at the bot-
tom whereof is placed a Tendon, which leparates it into two Ventricles ;
this Mufcle is lurrounded with a Border or RufF D. which has a very
quick Motion (independent of the Mufcle) when 'tis prick'd : this RufF
or Border is compos'd of tranl'verfe Fibres, rang'd from the Center to the
Circumference ; which would make one fufpect it did the Office of the
Jfpera Arteria, if by means of its Tendon it did not adhere ib faft to
the Shell, infomuch that there's no loofening it without a Knife.

THE Head of the Fifh comes out of a fort of Coif fring'd and

ruffled, produced by Elongation of the Border or RufF abovemcntion'd :

this Head, not unlike that of a fucking Pig, is four or five lines long,

Vol. T. C c half

1 94 'A Voyage into the Levant.

half as broad, rounded upwards, ending in a reddifh Mouth, two lines
broad, and edg'd with a large Lip : on each fide its-Front, ilTues a Horn,
which are pulh'd out or contracted like other Snails ; only they bend
back much like a Cow's Horn.

TH E other parts of this Creature are inclos'd in a Bag E. where the
Efbphagus meets, as in its Center : this Bag, about an inch and a half
long, nine or ten lines broad, narrowing at the Head, is exactly kid on
the Gutter of the pectoral Mufcle, and contains a flabby Subflance, good
to eat, interlpers'd with blackilh VefTels.

THE pectoral Mufcles ferve for Legs and Feet to the Creatures, as
likewife to all Snails and Frfh whole Shell confifts but of one fingle piece.
When the Fim we're (peaking of would move forwards, they prefs hard
on the foremoft Edge of this Muicle ; and when they would go back-
wards, they do the like on the hindmoft Edge of the fame Muicle.

WE examin'd likewife another fort of Goats-Eye, whole pectoral
Mufcle is much thicker, and ferves the lame purpoies as that of the ordi-
nary Goats-Eye : its Head has alio two Horns, but ihorter. The Bafbn
or Shell is longer, more oval, and has a hole at top, through which it
feems to lpout Water.

j 0 s# THE Wind was fo favourable to us, that we -got to Nio before we

1 02. ^ were aware : the Antients call'd this Ifland Ios, from the ' hni.rns its firft
• ste b** V' Inhabitants. 'Tis forty miles about, remarkable for nothing but Homer's
ios Homeii Tomb : this famous Poet parting from Samos to Athens, put in at Ios, and
nePranda!p/!».died in the Port. They erected him a Tomb-flrone, on which (a long
lib. 4. M/.12. Cjme after) was grav'd th Epitaph related by Hevodotn*, the iuppos'd Wri.
» Rer. Geo", ter of Homer's Life. * Strabo, s Pliny, and c Pai/Janias, mention this Tomb :
lib. 10. 5tjs acJdecj by the latter, that the Tomb of Cljmene, the Mother of Ho-
4 Lib.' 10. mer-> was likewife ihew'd there; and furthermore, that there was an an-
tient oracular Refponfe at Delphos grav'd on a Column fupporting the Sta-
tue of that excellent Man. By this Infcnption it appear1 d, that his Mo-
ther was of the Ifle of Ios .- We read the lame Oracle in Stephens the
Geographer, who has been follow'd by Eujlathius on Homer ; but 'tis al-
Noft. Attic, ledg'd by Aulm Gellim, that according to Artftotle, Homer mufl have been
' born in the forefaid Ifle. Be it as 'twill, we could meet with no Remains

of

te/.z.

-Faa u.o -f

//<•/<• in, u- Stead- .

Defer ipt ion of the I/land of Nio. 19$

of this Tomb all about the Port : all we met with, was an excellent Letter VL
Spring of freih Water, bubbling through a marble Trough but one pace ~*~>S^>'
from the fait Water.

PLINY has rightly fix'd the diftance between Nto and Naxia at 24
miles : as likewife that between Nto and Santonn at 2 $ miles, tho ftrictly
'tis i o ; but that's an inconsiderable difference.

MARCO SANVDO. the firft Duke of Naxia, annex'd Nio to his HiftoiT °/ *e

t 11 cv Dukes of the

Dutchy ; nor was it difmembred till John Crijpo, the twelfth Duke, gave Archipelago.
it his Brother Prince Marco ; who built a Caftle on an Eminence, two
miles above the Port, as well for the Security of his own Perfbn, as to
defend his iinall Domains againft the Mahometans : he likewife fent for
fome Albanian Families to manure the Land, which wanted nothing but
Hands to improve the natural Fertility of the Soil. Thus in a ihort time
did this Ifland (which was look'd upon as a Deiart) become very popu-
lous and flourilhing. The Burgh now fubfiftmg, was built round the
Caftle like an Amphitheatre, probably on the Ruins of the antient Town
of los ; for the Author of Homer's Life relates, that the Inhabitants of
the Town came down to the Sea-fide, to adminifter ail the help they could
to that wonderful Man. 'Twere needlefs to lay, that Nio fubmitted in its
time to both the Roman and Greek Emperors: it came into the Family of
Pifatii by the Marriage of Prince Marco's -only Daughter with Lewis Pi-
fani a Venetian Noblemen.

THEIR Cuftom is once a Year to chufe a Coniiil or two. The In-
habitants paid the Grand Signior, in the Year 1700, two thouland Crowns
for the Capitation, and 3000 for the Land-Tax. The Ifland is well cul-
tivated, and not fo fteep as the other Iflands : fo that M. Bocbarfs Ety- Geogt. Saa.
mology of it, won't hold. There's great call for the Wheat it produces, llbl *' caF<14*
but Oil and Wood are fcarce. No Palrn-Trees are now to be leen, tho
'tis likely this fort of Tree was what antiently caus'd it to be calPd Pha-
uice, as is obicrv'd by Pliny and others. In the King's Cabinet there's a
Medal of this Iflaud, with JupiteSs Head on one fide, and a P.i/Us with ihtjin.
a Palm-Tree on the other. Father Hardouin mentions a Medal of this NUm. Pepul.
Ifland, with a Head of LucilU on it. &-Urb-

THERE remains, no Footftep of Antiquity in Nio : The Inhabitants
have no notion of any thing but the Pence: tbev are all Thieves by

Cc 2 Pro-

ipd ^ Voyage into the Levant.

Profeffion, and therefore the Turks call it Little Malta ; 'tis a Harbouring,
place for mod of the Corfairs of the Mediterranean. The Latins there
have but one Church, fupply'd by a Vicar of the Bifhop of Santorin • the
other are Greek Churches, depending on the Bilhop of Siphanto.

PRIVATEERS frequent this Ifland, attracted by the Beauty of its
Havens : that below the Burgh is one of the fecureft throughout the Ar-
chipelago, its Entrance verges from South to South-South-Ea{l. The Port
?he Machine- 0f ' Manganari faces the Eaft, and affords a fafe Retreat for the largeft
MavjWfM. Fleets. The Pilots of Nio and Milo are reckon'd the beft of any in the
Levant, becaufe they have a thorow Knowledge of the Coafts of Syria
and Egypt, where the richeft Prizes are taken. M. d'e Cintray, a Cruifer
put into Port while we were there : He came on fhore, attended by his
Levantines, arm'd up to the very teeth ; he took a Dinner at the French
Consul's, and then return'd on board his own Ship. He wanted Bisket
and a Pilot, which if the Conful had not procured, the Cadi or Waivod
would for Mony.

A S we were going in fearch of Simples, to our great furprize we law
our Sailors coming down from the Mountains, fo feared that they knew
■ corfahs of not whether their Saick was carry'd off by Maltefe, ' Barbarees, or Ban-
Barbary. ig^ *T\\\s Adventure concern'd us a little : but we loon learnt at the Con.
ful's Houfe, that the Veffel was in the Port, that the Seamen had quitted
it to get alhore, at fighc of one of M. Qintrafs, Galliots ; and that in
fhort M. Tourtin, who commanded it, being inform'd the Goods on
board belong'd to Frenchmen, fet it at liberty. One is fubjed: to thefe
petty Alarms in the Archipelago, where one can't pals from one Me to
another but in Boats with two or four Oars, which never go except in
calm Weather : 'twould be (till worfe to make ufe of large Veffels, which
tho they are fecure from the Banditti, yet they wear out one's patience in
flaying for a Wind.

THESE Banditti, who are dreaded in all parts of the Archipelago, are
a parcel of Villains, who are forced by Indigence to lay hold on the firft
Veffel they light of, and lie in wait for others at the Turn of fome Cape
or in fbme Creek : Thefe Wretches, not content with plundering People,
throw 'em over-board with a Stone about their necks, for fear of be-
ing feiz'd, upon the Complaints of thofe they have ill ufed. We under-

ftcod,

/:-/.j.

-Paf-JSf-

fU-T.

3*

Defcription of the IJland of Nio. 1 97

Hood, fome days afterwards, that M. de Ctatray had made prize of two Letter VI.
VefTels belonging to thefe Banditti, who were carrying off a Ship laden v-/~vr">*-'
with Timber, and eighteen Turkifi PafTengers.

THE People of Nio will never forget the great Actions of the Che-
valiers cC Hoquincourt and Temericourt : the firft came thither to refit, after
having in the Port of Scio fingly fought thirty Galleys commanded by the
Captain-Baihaw ; the fecond, by means of a favourable Wind, forced
fixty Galleys to fheer ofr^ after feveral of 'em had been well bang'd.
This Fleet had all the difficulty in the world to get away to Cavdia,
where it was carrying 2000 Janizaries.

IT had been very agreeable to have {laid at ATio, had there been Fruits
and Refrefhments : but the Soil affords nothing but Corn. The Wo-
mens Apparel in this Ifland is as odd as in the other Iflands. As for
Plants, the Ifland produces none uncommon ; yet we found a fort of
Cakile which is not yet defcribed, and which we met with an Mtlo and
fome other Iflands.

THIS Plant is branchy, a foot and a half or two foot high ; its Stalk cakhe
is three lines thick, dusky green, moderately hairy, angulous, full offo*™^?™*
white Pith, fubdivided into feveral Branches, attended with Leaves here ftriat,3> bIev,\

* Corel, bift. Ret

and there, like thofe of the Garden-Rocket: they are about two inches Herb. 49.
long, deep green, flefhy, acrid, mucilaginous, cut in as far as the Stalk,
and growing lefs the nearer they are to the Flowers. From the Bafe of
thefe Leaves grow finall Threds adorn'd with yet fmaller Leaves ; the Ex-
tremities of the Branches are laden all along with Flowers eonfifting of
four white Leaves, five lines long, which however do not rife out of the
Cup above two lines : the Cup alfo confifts of four leaves, and from its
Center grow fix white Chieves, with yellow tops. The Peftle is but
three lines long, and turns afterwards to a Fruit five or fix \ lines long,
two lines thick, gutter'd, picked, eonfifting of two pieces, jointed end
to end, fo as the lower part fomewhat hollow receives the Tuberofity of
the upper ; both are of a lpungy Subflance, and each inclofes in a ieparate
Cell a reddifh Seed half a line long.

BEING delighted with making Geographical Stations, we went to
one of the highefl places of the Port, and found that

Argentine is between the Weft and Weft-North- Weft of Mo.

^ Sipbavto,

198 A Voyage into the Levant.

Siphanto, between the North- Weft and Weft-North-Weft.

Santorin, to the South-South-Eaft.

Chriftidtta declines frorij the South to the South-South-Weft.

Sikino is at the Weft-South-Weft.

Avelo declines from the North-North-Eaft to the North.

Sicinus & AT Break of Day weembark'd, and according to Strabo's Advice we
s'ikhno's. t0°k the Road towards the Weft, in order to repair to the Ifle of Sikino.
sikino. We are told by Pliny, ApoSonius Rhoditu, and Stephens the Geographer,
oinoih. that it was antiently call'd the Wine Iftand, becaufe of its Fertility in
Vines : upon which the Scholiaft of Apollonins oblerves, that it took the
Aot 2/xic« i}» name of Sikinm from a Son of Thoxs King of Lemnos, the only Perfon of
CcTvJpm"1 tne Ifland who efcaped with Life by means of his Daughter Hypfipile, in
Rhod' aFvetf. t^at Crue^ Ma^acre? when all the Women murder'd in the night not
525. lib. 1. only their Husbands, but all the unmarry'd Men of the Country, for
preferring to them the captive Slaves they had newly taken in Thrace.
Tboas landing in this Ifland, was very kindly receiv'd by a Nymph, of
whom he begot Sikinm.
' fl vtf-nuv THERE is ftill Wine enough in Sikino ' to merit its antient Name,
f^rJLfrT abundance of Figs, but little Cotton : the green Figs are excellent, not
mna aim) *>- f0 tne dry ones, becaufe they bake 'em in an Oven to preferve 'em from
Schoi. Apoi. Worms. This Ifland, which is but eight miles from Nio, and about twen-
ty in circuit, ftretches from the South- Weft to the North-Eaft : it is well
cultivated, its Wheat is counted the beft in the Archipelago ; the People of
Provence catch it up: they fvvept away all the Corn in 1700, and mud
continue to do lb, if the Commerce of Cape Negre be not reftored.
There is however fome difficulty to lade Corn in the Levant ; being often
forc'd to run from one Ifland to another, before you can get a full Cargo,
and then it muft fometimes be half Wheat, half Rye. In 1700, the
Turks of Volo and Theffalonica being under apprehenfions of a Famine,
would not fufter the People of this place to fell Corn to Strangers, any
more than in Candia : but as the Mujfulmans will do any thing for Mony,
they let the Provenfals fhip it off by night.
Hiftorypfthe SIK^INO was part of the Domains of the Dukes of Naxia ; the
AnhipUp* Burgh, which is call'd after the name of the Ifland, is on an Eminence to

* the

TH.X

v Su?t7/u 6r> r< 'te/n 7?// znfomeun , /i viettA/une.

T)efcription of the IJland of Sikino. 199

the Weft-Soutl>Weft, by a frightful Rock, which hangs over the Sea Letter VI.

juft as if it were falling into it : This Burgh contains not above 200 In- ^^^*-*

habitants, who when we were there paid 850 Crowns to the Capitation

and Land-Tax. The French Corfairs that marry there, are exempt from

the Capitation ; but the Greeks are very fevere, in making them pay

Taxes for the Lands they pofTefs. There can't be a greater Punifhment

than for an old Fifherman to marry in Greece ; their Wives have neither

Virtue nor Mony : and yet they will venture upon 'em, notwithstanding

the King's Uriel: Orders, who for the Nation's Honour has very wifely

forbid any of his Subjects marrying in the Levant, without leave of his

AmbafTador, or lbme other of his Reprelentatives.

THE Ifle of Sikino has no Port ; we landed at San Bourgnias, an
ugly Road ; the Entrance of it is South-South-Eaft, but the Saicks mull:
be tow'd aihore : there's a pretty Chappel to lodge in, if a Man has not
a mind to go up to the Burgh. There are no Latins in this Ifland : the
Cadi goes the Circuits ; the Waivod is moll commonly a Greek, or a
frank from the adjoining Ifles. The Confal of Trance was a Maltefe, he signer Fnm-
gave us a kind Entertainment, and is a very good fort of Man.

OUR inquiring after Plants, together with the South-South- Weft
Wind, kept us here till the fecond of Oclober. We found a Muftard-
Plant of a very beautiful fort, which is ftill kept in the King's Garden.

ITS Root is nine inches long, white, two lines thick, hard, crooked, SlNAPI Gr*-

, .11 cum raa™-

©f a burning tafte, attended with iome Fibres a little hairy : it puts mum, tenuifli-
forth a Stalk a foot high, branchy, fpreading wide, fo that the whole floVprpu"™'
Plant is not fo tall as 'tis broad, except when 'tis run up to Seed ; for raifcente- c°;
then its Stalks lengthen confiderably. The Leaves next the ground are Herb. 1.7.
three inches long, fleihy, and flaih'd as far as the Stalk into feveral
pieces an inch long, two lines broad, furrow'd and rolling up. As
tbefe Leaves approach nearer to the Flowers, they grow lefs ; thele
Flowers, which at firil are in a duller, feparate themfelves from
each other in blowing : each Flower confills of four purple Leaves,
and fometimes whitifh, feven lines long, round at the point, two lines
broad, and rife half their length out of the Cup. The Cup confills of
four Leaves, pale green, four lines long, one broad ; fix Chieves pofTefs
the middle, topt yellowifh, difpos'd round a Peftle three lines long, fine

as

2oo ^Voyage into the Levant.

as a Thred, and which turns to a Pod or Cod half an inch long, reddifh,
almofl cylindrical, about a line in diameter ; it has two Apartments,
wherein are fome Seeds almofl fpherical, reddifh, half a line in diameter ;
the Partition concludes in a fort of fpungy Horn, two lines long, in
which there's a Seed like the others. The whole Plant has an acrid
poignant tafte.

THE great Rock on the fide of the Burgh, is the befl place for Sim-
pling : we obferv'd there with our univerfal Quadrant, that Milo is to the
Weft-North- Weft, and Policandro declines from the Weft to the Weft-
South-Weft.

Toucan- IT is highly probable, that Policandro is the Pholegandros of Strabo

*OAtrAN- and Pliny : for befides the Similitude of Names, Strabo fays exprefly, that

Phole'gan- in facing from los Weftward you meet with Sicenos, Lagufa, and Phole-

dros. oundros. As for Lagufa, I take it to be Cardiotiffa, an ill-favour'd Rock

*IAOKAN- *> £> J J , i ,

APOS- Ptoi. between Sikino and Policandro, where there s a famous Chappel of the
A;i»;}ral8s> yjr2in rnuch reforted to on occafions of Feftivity. What y/ni/«f lavs of
thli sixwof Pbotezandros, is applicable to Policandro ; namely, that it was call'd the
foKiyLvScst Iron Ifland. Stephens the Geographer lays, it took its Name from a Son

Si/ hfj.m en- _ ,.
^tiriioyJ.. of Minos.

C» cO* tw j T has n0 part . we landed the 2d of October at a ■ Creek to the Eaft-
StraK Rer. South-Eaft. The Bursh, which is about three miles from the fhore, near a

Geo» lib. 10. 1

$ohLivS,o< terriD^e R°c^> has no other Walls but what are form'd by the back parts
w« «$r fw of the Houfes : it contains 1 20 Families of the Greek Worlhip ; Anno 1 700
m^mto they paid 1020 Crowns to the Capitation and Land-Tax. As ftony and
uivaos. tep • parcj1»cj as this Ifland is, it yields the Inhabitants as much Corn and Wine
stario Carina- as they have occafion for. They are wanting of Oil : all the Olives are

Tithymalus

pickled againft Faft-days. The Country is full of the Shrub Tithymale,

arboreus. p. which for want of better Wood ferves for Fewel. The Ifland is poor,

*'1*' * and deals in nothing but Cotton ; you may have a dozen of Napkins for

a Crown, but then they are not above a foot fquare : for the fame price

you may have eight, fomewhat larger, and laced about.

THERE'S no want of Papas and Chappels ; that of the Virgin is
very pretty, it ftands on a huge Rock near the Ruins of Caftrc, the old
Caftle of the Dukes of Naxia, which no doubt is built on the Founda-
tion

i>«

Defer iption of the IJland of Policandro. 20 r

tion of the antient Town call'd Philocandros, as Ptolemy lays. In this Letter VI.
Chappel there are fome Remains of marble Columns. As for the old Sta- *-*"V"^
tue Ipoken of by Thevenot, we were told it has been faw'd to pieces to
help to make a Door-cafe of: fome years ago they found the Foot of a
Figure in Brals, which they melted down to make Candleflicks for the
Chappel. The old Monaftery of the Caloyers is no longer in being : the
Nunnery of St. John Baptist has but three or four Nuns. The Ifland
looks gay, as dry as 'tis : we lodg'd at the Houfe of Georgachi Stay a
Candiot, a Man of Wit • he's the Conful of France, he likewife executes
the Offices of Adminiftrator and Waivod.

WE were told of a very fine Grotto in this dreadful Rock; but we
could not lee it, becaule there's no going into it but by Boats in calm Wea-
ther, and the Sea was then very rough. The Rock is the belt place in
the Ifland for Simpling : we gather'd there the Seed of the faireft fort of
Campanula in all Greece ; this Seed has happily grown up in the King's
Garden, and produced the Plant I'm going to defcribe.

THE whole Plant, which is not above two foot tall, is round like an Campanu-
Under-Shrub: its firft Leaves are eight inches long, two and a half faxatilis jaco-
broad, and begin with a tail four inches long, guttering, very fine edges : c*oLinft.Rei
beyond this Tail the Leaves enlarge, deeply flalh'd, ihining, vein'd white Herb' 3*
as well as the Stalk. The Leaves along the Branches are not more than
two or three inches long ; the lalt Leaves are four or five lines broad, an
inch and a half long, moderately indented and pointed : the Stalk of this
Plane is woody, thick as a Man's Thumb at firft, laden with Flowers at
its extremities ; each Flower is bell-faihion'd about fifteen lines deep, widen-
ing to near two inches, walhy blue, flaih'd into five parts. The Cup is an
inch long, cut into five fharp points ; the Peftle rifes from the Center of
the Flower, white and hairy to the middle, afterwards greenifh, termi-
nating like a five-ray'd Star ; attended with five white Chieves, two lines
long, three broad, bending towards the Peftle, laden with a Summit four
lines long : the Cup turns to a Fruit round like a Man's Head, nine or
ten lines in diameter, fplitting in five Cells ; each whereof is gamifli'd
with a Placenta charg'd with Seeds flat, Ihining, brown-colour'd. The
whole Plant yields Milk, and has no manner of Smell : the Leaves are
fbmewhat aftringent ; it is bis-annual.

Vol. I. D d ON

202 A Voyage into the Levant.

O N the fame Rock we obferv'd that

Cardiotijfa declines from the Eaft-North-Eaft to the Eaft.

Mdo remains between the Weft-North- Weft and the Weft.

Polino, or Burnt IJland, is between the Weft-North-Weft and the

North-Weft.
Argentiere is in a right line on the back of Polino.
Sfpbfio is between the North- Weft and the North-North-Weft.
Jijtipuros between the North-Eaft and the North-North-Eaft.
Paros between the North-North-Eaft and the Eaft.
Naxos between the North- Eaft and the Eaft-North-Eaft.
WE defign'd to return to Naxia, but the Wind being North, obliged
us to put in at Sikino ; and it continuing in that Corner, we ihaped our
Courfe for Santorin, and arrived there the 16th of October. It is 36 miles
round, and diftant &onx Candia 70 miles, from Hikino 30.

KAAAISTH. SJNTORIN, or Ssnt-Erini, was calPd CatHfte, or the Handfome
OMEPA. 4" lfwd. Cadmus thought it lb agreeable, that he left his Kiniman Menu
i>\ nt-erin i. ^xres jn jt wftn {ome Phenicians to people it : were they now alive,
they would not know it again ; it's cover' d over with Pumice, the whole
Ifland is a mere Quarry of it, where you may cut as large Scantlings as
you pleafe, juft as any other fort of Stone in their refpeclive Quarries.
The Coafts all round the Ifland is almoft iuaccefllbly craggy and rugged,
occafion'd I iuppofe by Earthquakes.

• ibid. ' HERO DOTVS, ' Paufanias, and3 Strabo write, that Therasy one of

* Lb. 3, & 7- Cadmus1* Defendants, gave this Ifland the name of Thera : that not liking
Geog. ]i\f. 8. to live at Lacedemon, he went ever to C&lifta, after he had had the Re-
gency of Sparta during the Minority of his Nephews, Sons of Arijtode-
mm. Cd-(t.t was then in poflefllon of Membliaresys Descendants. Tberas
feiz'd the Ifland, with the help of fome Mjmans who had got out of pri-
fon at Lucedemon by a Stratagem of their Wives : the Story, my Lord, is
too pretty not to remind you of it.

YOUR Lordihip knows that the Mynims were the Progeny of fome
of thofe famed Heroes that accompany'd Jafo* to Coles's. In their Re-
turn back, they ftopt at Lemnos, where their Pofterity retain' d the name
ofMwi*9S\ who afterwards being overpower'd by the Fel.ij^ians, auo-

ther

/,:/. /.

J>,7<7 ao a ■

^ 7/7/7/7,/ of i£, LVT-fiJtIXJ .

or iSautorui .

Defer ipt ion of the IJland of Santorin. 203

ther People of Greece, they were driven out of Lemnos : upon this, they Letter VI.
went to Lacedemon, where they were fa well entertain'd, that they had ^"v"v-'
not only Lands given 'em, but their Men were allow'd to marry Lace-
demonian Women, and their Women Lacedemonian Men. Yet being the
Race of a parcel of vagrant ambitious Heroes, they foon diicovcr'd they
had not quite loft the Inclinations of their Anceflors ; and in Ihort they
attempted to leize the Supreme Authority, and veft it in thcmielvcj :
hereupon they were taken up, and fentenced to death ; but as gocd luck
would have it, they were not to be executed but in the night-time, ac-
cording to the Cuftom of the Lacedemonians. Mean while their Wives
Fondnefs fuggcffcd to them the means of their Efcape : they petition'd the
Magistrates to let 'em take a laft Farevvel of their Husbands ; which being
granted, they changed Clothes with 'em : the Men went off diigub'd like
Women, and thefe itaid behind in the Prifon difguis'd like Men.

HERODOTUS, who tells this Story, has recorded the Names of ibid.
two of Theras's Defendants who reign'd in this Ifland, A'jani/is and his
Son Grynus ; the latter went to coniult the Oracle of Delphos, accom-
pany'd with the moft eminent Peribnages of Ther a, among whom was Cyrene autem
Battus the Son of Polymnejtes (or Cyrnus) a Man of Quality, and very Liftaeo, mi
much in efteem among the Mynians. The Oracle bade 'em build a Town j^^^f"
on the Coafl: of Lybia, and the Prieftefs pointed to Bat t us i this they neg- ob'Untionem.

, , , , 1 • r / 11 Hujus pater

lecled to do, nor did they know where Lybia was ; but the Drought cymus rex
which lafled leven years in Ther a, and kill'd every Tree but one through- &c^Jj)^
out the Ifland, obliged the King to return to the Priefleis, who order'd''^ '3- caM-
'em a fecond time to build a Town in Lybia. They did lb, and this was
the Origin of Gyrene, the Country of the Poet Cailimachus, who calls it
the Mother of good Horfes : and indeed at this very time the finefl:
Barbs of Africa come from the Kingdom of Barca or Cyrene ; for this
Kingdom has borrow'd its Name from the antient City of Bare e.

ST R A BO, who places Ther a between Crete and Egypt, allows it butJbid.
25 miles compafs, and fays it is inform very long. Things are mightily
chang'd fure, fince that time. Ther a lies between Cand/a and the Cycla-
ses ; it is j 6 miles about, and in figure is exactly like a Horfe-Shoe. As
for its Situation, the PalTage in Strabo muft be corrected by that of his

Compiler, who places Ther a between Crete and Cynuru, a Region of the Ste?h- Byzam.

r\ A ~ v>i Kea!l &w*et**

204. A Voyage into the Levant.

Peloponnesus, belonging to the Lacedemonians. As for the Figure or Form
of it, no wonder itreprefents a Half-moon ; for fuch confiderable Changes
have happen'd in its Neighbourhood, that this is but a fmall matter. Be- '
fides the Mutation of its Form, it has gain'd eleven miles in length
more than it had in Strabo's days ; but then it has loft all its fine Towns,
Lib. 4. of which Herodotus fays there were no fewer than feven. It muft like-
wife have been confiderable for its Power, fince Thera and Melos were the
only places that in the famous War of Peloponnefus durft declare for the
Lacedemonians againft the Athenians,' who had all the other Ifles of Greece
on their fide.
Wftory of the THE Revolution of the Greek Empire, after the taking of Conftan-
Archinia«o. * tinople by the French and Venetians, occafion'd the annexing of Santorin
to the Dutchy of Naxia ; but John Crifpo, who was the twelfth Duke there-
of, yielded it up to Prince Nicholas his Brother, who was calPd the Lord
of Santorin. It was united to the Dutchy after the death of William
Crifpo, the fifteenth Duke, who by Will appointed for Succeflbr the Lord
of Santorin his Nephew : it was afterwards mortgaged to the Lord of
Nio, by James Crifpo the feventeenth Duke of the Archipelago, who was
fain to borrow excefilve Sums to carry on the War againft Mahomet II. in
that famous League he was enter'd into with the Venetians and the King of
Perfia. Laftly, Santorin furrender'd it felf to Barbaroffa under Solyman II.
ri N»ffi *»« IT is no eafy matter to find out when the Ifle of Thera took the name
dyt'M 'E;f,',- of smt^rmi . but in all likelihood 'tis deriv'd from that of St. Irene the

w,

sanftx Irenes. Patronefs of the Ifle, and from Sant-Erini 'tis become Santorin. This

Saint was of Thejfalonica, and fuffer'd Martyrdom on the firft of April in

3 04, under the ninth Consulate of Diode fan, and the eighth of Maximian

Hercules : the Latin Church obferves it as a Holiday at Santorin, where

are ftill nine or ten Chappels dedicated to St. Irene,

hmtviAiejui. W E were fet afhore at Port San Nicole below Apanomeria, which is on

the left as you enter the Port. We were very much tired in getting to

the Town, for it is not to be imagin'd how fteep the way is. The other

t3 Kd<rejv to Towns of this Ifland are Scaro or Caflro, Pyrgos, Emporio or Nebrio, and

2>»'f«' Acrotiri, fituated on the left fide of the Port oppofite to that of Apano-

tpirieiot. meria. This Port is like a Half-moon in form ; as fine a Port as it looks

hKcyriw to be, no Ship can anchor in it, for no bottom could ever yet be fovthd

by

Defer ipt ion of the IJland of Santorin. 205

by the Plumb-line : it has two Entrances, one at the South-Weft, the Letter VL
other at the Weft-North- Weft, under fhelter of the fmall Ifle of Tbira- '^^^^
fta, feparated from Santorin by the Port of San Nicolo, a fmall Strait
where Boats ply : over againft the other Entrance, there are three Rocks
lefs than Thirafia. ' The white Ifland is out of the Port, the 2 fmall Ifland ' ^tt^iW.
is within, and 5 Burnt Ifland is fituated between 'em both : the latter re- *™'laJmS ^
ceiv'd a confiderable Increafe in 1427, the 25th of November, as is re- P6*
corded in fome Latin 4 Verfes graved on a Marble at Scaro near the Church , DT^T'-

<J Reported in

Of the JeluitS. the Relation of

'TIS laid all thefe Iflands role from the bottom of the Sea. What a Father Ri-
frightful fight to lee the teeming Earth bring forth fuch unwieldy Bur- chards'
dens ! What prodigious Force mult there needs be, to move 'em, dis-
place 'em, and lift 'em above the Water ! No wonder the Port of San-
torin has no bottom : the Hollow whence that Ifland iflu'd, muft by me-
chanical Neceflity at the lame time have been occupy'd by a like Bulk of
Water. What Shocks, what Concuflions muft have been excited in the
Neighbourhood of it, when this Abyfs lb of a fudden fill'd it felf up again !
Sure this new Ifland was not call'd by the name of Beautiful till long after
its birth ; for emerging as it did out of the Waters, it could be nothing elfe
but a Mafs of Stone cover'd over with Slime and Mud : numbers of Years
muft have been requifite to the forming, out of thole Subftances, a Soil
proper for Production ; I can't imagine whence it got the Seeds of Plants
it was adorn'd with.

THERASU, fays Pliny, was loofen'd from it afterwards; the Re- Hfft. Nat.
femblance of the Name is the caufe that many have taken Thirefia, a bale 4* cap" I2,
Rock feparated from Samorin by the Port of San Nicolo, for Pliny's new
Ifland. I can't help fulpedting that the Antients call'd Tberajia the white
Ifland, and gave the name of Hiera to Thirefia : if my Conjecture is falfe,
all the Authors that have mention' d the Tranfa&ions between Thera
and Tberajia, have been under a miftake, except Strabo, who alone has RemmGeog.
call'd by the name of Therafia the Ifle of Chriftiana ; otherwife that Au-
thor had ill exprefs'd himfelf, in faying that Tbera is in the neighbourhood
of Aiiapbe and of Therafia, fince Jnapbe is 18 miles diftance from it. Pto- Ge0„. ^,j
lemy has placed a Town on Therafia ; certainly it muft not have been on "P-1^
the prefent Thirafia, which has not extent enough to build a Caftle on.

* THIS

2o6 A Voyage into the Levant.

Qukft.Nat. THIS Obfervaticn may help to juftify Seneca, who refers to his time
' "?,*!' the Apparition of the Ifle of Thaufta : this likewife mews that Pliny was
not Cotemporary with Strabo, nor confequently with Diofcorides, fince
befides his fpeaking of Tberafia as a Spot of Ground bran-new, torn from
the lfle of Tbera by the Violence cf the Sea, he alio advances, that the
Rock Automate or Hiera appear'd to view fome time after between Tbera

Hift. Nat. and Tberapa. How can this Paffage of Pliny be explain'd, if we take the
cap'7 ' Rock of Tbirajia for the Tberafia of that Author ? For 'tis certain that
between Santorin and Thirefia there's only the Port of San Nicolo, where
there would not be room fo much as for a fingle Rock of any bulk. In our
days, continues Pliny, has been feen ifluing out of the Sea another Rock
call'd Tbia, juft by Hiera : Would it be going too far, to take for granted
thefe two Rocks to be Tbirefia and Cammeni, fuppofing that Afpronifi is
the real Tberafia of the Antients ?

THE Situation of all thefe Rocks can't otherwife be comprehended :

' Lib. 30. ' 'Jufti'h f°r example, reports that there was lb great an Earthquake be-

«p.4- tween the Ifles of Tbera and Tberafia, that a new Ifland was with great

• in notis ad admiration beheld fpringing forth amidlt the hot Water. ' Father Har-
iib.2" Hift. doiitn has perfectly well corrected Plinfs Text upon the Origin of Tbera.
Nat Dm. 3 Yy-wn Qajjjtts fpeaks barely of the Apparition of a fmall Iiland, which

♦ in Claud. fhew'd it fclf near Tbera in Claudius's time. 4 Jurelius Victor fays, it was

confiderable ; and Syncellus, who places it in the 46th Year after Chrift,
aiTigns it between Tbera and Tberafia : laflly, Ptolemy places a Town on
Tberafia.
Compend. CEDRENVS fays, that in the tenth Year of Leo the Ifaurian, that

Chrift. 713. grand Iconoclaft, there appear'd for fome days together lb thick a Dark-
ncfs between Tbera and Tberafia, that it feem'd as if a burning Kiln or
Furnace was rifing up : this cloudy Subftance incraffated and harden'd it
felf arnidft the Flames, after which it faften'd on the Ifle Hiera, and in-
creas'd the bulk thereof. Mean time there were cad up luch quantities
of Pumice Stones, as cover'd the Coafts of Macedon and Afia Minor, even
as far as the Dardanelles. Cedrenus has done nothing more than copy
Theoph.chro- Tbeopbanes and Nicepborus ; the firft refers this Facl; to the Year 712
the other to 720.

THE

Defcription of the IJland of Santorin. 207

THE Natives, tho very ignorant, fail not to acquaint Strangers Letter VL
that all the petty Rocks about this Ifland were brought into the World ^-'^^^^
by Earthquakes. We learn from Father Richard the Year when the lit- Rcbt; ?e.

J x Sant-tnnu

tie burnt Ifland appear'd ; his Words are thefe : " There are many old

*' Men in this Ifland, who affirm they law an Ifland form it ielf by Fire

<* in the middle of the Sea, in the Year 1575. which Illand was tbere-

" fore call'd Micri Cammeni, that is to fay, Little Burnt I/land" Now

we're Ipeaking of Fire, Strabo lays that the Sea was obferv'd to boil four j^mm Ge0S-

days together, between Thera and Therafia ; that it cad forth flames, and

that an Ifland, 1500 paces in compafs, manifeftly appear'd, as if it had

been pluck'd up from the bottom of the Water by Engines.

M. TH EVE NOT relates fomething like what is recounted by Theo- R^f- cap.68»
pbanes, Nicephoruty and Ceirsnus ; namely, that about 53 Years ago a
prodigious quantity of Pumice-Stones was feen to ariie from out of the
Port of Santorin ; that they afcended from the bottom of the Sea with
fuch noife and impetuofity, that one would have thought 'em to be the
Burfls of Cannon. At Scio, above 200 miles from the place, they fan-
cy'd the Venetian Army was fighting the Turks, Thefe Pumice-Stones-
flew lb thick on the Coafts of the Levant Sea, that the Inhabitants of
the Iflands make no manner of doubt they came from Santorin.

AS for the Formation of Iflands now under confideration, can any
thing be more demonftrative than what we find in the publick News from
Conjiantinople ? " In November lafl^ 1707, the fubtcrranean Fires pro- Gazette <.f
u duced at Santorin an Ifland, already two miles in circuir, and was
" actually growing bigger the firft of December by additional Rocks, and
w other new Matter which the Flames coutinu'd to caft forth. The
" Burning was preceded by violent Earthquakes, follow'd by a thick
" Smoke, which iflu'd out of the Sea in the day-time, and Flames in the
" night-time, and accompany'd with terrible Noiies under ground." To
this may be adc!ed the appearing of a new Ifland out of the Sea, amiofl: a Not. in r>io»,_
dreadiul Hurricane in 10 58, near the Ifland of St.Micbxel, one of the
Azores : Gaffendu* reports this new Illand to be three Leagues in lengthy
and one and a half in breadth.

I T is high tame we entePd into a more exact Detail of the Lie of
S*stj>rin. Nothing is. more dry and barren than its Soil ; and yet tho \is

all

;i

208 ^ Voyage into the Levant.

all a mere Pumice, the Inhabitants by Labour and Ingenuity have made a
peifed: Orchard of the mod ungrateful Spot of Ground in the World ;
and however dilagreeable its Coaft may be, yet is Santorin a Jewel com-
pared to the Iflands about it : whereas in Nanfio, not above eighteen miles
from it, you fee nothing but Thirties and Brambles, tho the Land is na-
turally excellent. Santorin affords indeed little Wheat, but a deal of Bar-
ley, abundance of Cotton, and Wine in. profufion : this Wine has the
colour of Rheniih, but it is potent and fpirituous ; 'tis exported to all
parts of the Archipelago, and as far as Confiantinople : the main Trade of
the Ifland confifts in this Liquor and their, Cotton Manufactures. The
Women here are bufy'd in cultivating the Vineyards, while their Hut
. bands are abroad felling their Wines. The befl Vineyards are in a Plain
beyond Pyrgos at the foot of the Mountain of St. Stephen ; their way of
Culture is much like that of Provence : their Cotton comes in a Shrub like
our Gooleberry-Trees ; they don't pluck 'em up every Year, as is prac-
tis'd in the other Iflands : it is the fame Species with that which Bauhinus
calls Herb-Cotton, and which he has diftinguifh'd from Shrub-Cotton.

FRUIT is fcarce in this Ifland, except Figs: they fetch their Oil

from Candia, and Wood from Raclia ; the Scarcity of the latter is the

realbn of their hardly ever eating new Bread in Santorin : generally fpeak-

ing, they make Barley-Bread, and this but three or four times in the

■ Ziclozf from Year ; it is a black forry fort of ' Bifcuit. They kill Beeves but at one time

Sndof^*"' of the Year; after they have cut them to pieces and boned 'em, they fee

cMtfi the^s ^ YXeQn. to fl.eep jn Vinegar wherein Salt has been difTolv'd : this Fle/h

no eating em 11

without break- expos'd in the Sun feven or eight months, grows as hard as Wood ; fome
eat it dry, others boil it.

THERE are reckon'd to be in Santorin ioooo Souls: befides the
Towns noted upon our Plan, there are five populous Villages, Carte-
rado, Mafferia, Votona, Gonia, and Megalo-Chorio. The Inhabitants ol
this Ifland are all Greeks ; you never hear the Name of a Turk mention'd.
but when they fpeak of the Taxes. In 1700, they paid 4000 Crowns to
the Capitation, and 6000 to the Land-Tax. Among the Greeks, there'i
not above a third of the Inhabitants who follow the Latin Way of Wor/hip .
the Gentry live at Scaro, a fmall Town built at the further end of the Port on
a Rock that ftands almoft by it felf, and very rugged ; here too the Conful

ol

Defer iption of the IJland of Santorin. 209

of France refides, and the Jefuits have a good Houfe : Sophiano Bifhop of Letter Vh
Santorin reftored them thither in 1642, and gave 'em the place of the Ducal Relation tf^
Chappel to build a Church on. We were handfomly treated by their Sa"t'Er""'
Superiour ; he diftributes Medicines very mccefsfully as well as charita-
bly. However holy and zealous the Miffionaries be, it were to be wifh'd
there were but one fort of Religious in each Ifland : Experience mews
that the Chriftian Religion is propagated and maintain'd with more Edi-
fication in Syr a, where there are none but Capuchins, and in Santorin
I \ where there are none but Jeiuits, than in thofe Iflands where there are of
both forts. The two Biiliops of the Ifland, one whereof is a Greek, the
pother a Latin, refided at Scaro when we arrived there : there is. in the
lame Town a Curate, and five or fix Canons of our Communion. The
Greek Nuns of the Order of St. Bajil, are 2 5 in number ; the Latin but
I15, and follow the Rule of St. Dominic k : thefe Nuns make the bell Cal-
licoes in the Country ; they are carry'd to Candia, the Morea, and to all
, parts of the Archipelago.

THE Cadi of Santorin is fometimes itinerant ; when he refides in the

Ifland, 'tis commonly at Pyrgos, the prettied Town in all the Ifland,

ii;built on a rifing ground, from whence you difcern two Seas, and the

:. ;5neft Vineyards in the world : there wants nothing but Water, of

nvhich there is but one Spring in the whole Country, (on the Moun-

c ;.ain of St. Stephen) and that but a forry one. 'Tis true, they every where

lave places to receive and *eep Rain-water dug in the Pumice, and well-

i:emented. Molt of the Houfes are Caverns dug in the fame Stone, like

.Jadgers Holes, or thofe fort of Chymical Furnaces call'd Athanors : they riie**>

it arch'd over with very light Stones, reddiih, which look to be a half-

mmice. The Coaft of the Port is the moft frightful of any ; not lb much

s a Blade of Grafs to be leen, and the Rocks of the colour of Iron Drofs.

THE feventh of October we went to the Mountain of St. Stephen, fb yo#f & *y*
:alPd from a Chappel dedicated to that Saint. It is very extraordinary, ^'P*1"*'
0 fee a Block of Marble grafted, as one may fay, on Pumice-Stone.
)id it afcend from the bottom of the Waters, or has it been found fince
he birth of the Ifland ? There is ftill to be feen on one of its little Hills
t the foot of a Rock, the Rubbiih of an antient Town, and the Ruins
f a marblc-column'd Temple. It may have been that of Neptune, built
Vol. I. E e there

K

210 A Voyage into the Levant.

on the fourth there by the Rhcdians ; but the Scholiaft of Pindar obferves, that there
was another of Minerva, and that the Ifland of Thera was confecrated
Comment to Apollo : and therefore Pindar calls it a Holy Ifland. Trijlanas mentions
pag. 695. a Medal of Ve nus, on the Reverfe whereof is reprefented a fort of Boun-
Legend. dary-God, which that Author fufpe&s to be the Figure of Jupiter, God
zet2 o- of Confines or Limits.

jiJre/Sn-' HERE follow the Infcriptions that are found among the Ruins of
terminus. tne fineft ' Town of the Iiland, confiderable even when Rome was in its
$ "ow. Pwi. Glory, fince it had leave to confecrate Monuments to its Emperors.

Geog. lib. 3.

*»P» J5- T I B E P I O N K A A T A I O N

K A I 2 A P A 2EBA2TON

TEPMANIKON K0IPAN02

ATNO20ENOT2 RAI OTIOS

ATTOr ArNO20ENH2

TI1EP TOT AHMOT.

Coeranus Son of Agnoflhenes, and Agnoflhenes his Son, in the Name of
the People teflify their Attachment for Tiberius, Claudius, Casfar, Auguftus,
Germanicus.

ATTOKPATORA KAI2APA MAPKON
A T P H A I O N ANTnNEINON

2EBA2TON

f
H B O T A H K A I O A H M O S

O ©HPAIHN

THN EniMEAElAN KAI THN
ANA2TA2IN nOIHjAMENfiN
APXONTQN A2KAHnlAAOr B~
KAI KOIHTOT B~ KAI AAEsANAPOT
ET*POSTNOT IEPA2AMENOT

noATOTXOr b~

Under Afclepiades and Quietus, Magiftrates for the fecond time, with Alex
ander Son of Euphrofynus, the Senate and People of the Ifland of Then
have caused to be eretted the Statue of the Emperor Caelar, Marcus Aurelius,
Antoninus, Auguftus, confecrated by Polyuchus the High Priett for the
fecond time.

'TIS

If

Defcription of the IJland of Santorin. 2 1 1

»TI S faid the Fragments of the Statue are not far from the Infer iption ; LetterVI
)ut this Statue is without a Head.

w/-v^w»

ATTOKPATOPA K A I 2 A P A
A. 2 E n T I M I O N 2 E B H P O N
nEPTINAKA 2EBA2TON
H BOTAH KAI O A H M O 2
O 0 H P A I n N.

"he Senate and the People of Thera affure the Emperor Caelar, L. Septimius
everus, Pertinax, Auguftus, of their perfect Devotednefs.

ATTOKPATOPA KAI2ARA M. A T P H A I O N
2EBHPON ANTQNEINON ET2EBH
2EBA2TON APABIKON AilABHNIKON
nAPGIKON TEPMANIKON METI2TON
H BOTAH KAI O A H M O 2 O ©HPAIQN
APXI2. M. ATP. I20KAE0T2 A2KAHITIAAOT

TOB KAI AT P.
KAEOTEAOT2 TTPANNOT KAI ATR. *TAOsENOT
ABA2KANTOT THN tlPONOIAN TH2 nAPASKEBHS
KAI TH2 ANA2TA2ER2 TOT ANaPIANTOS nOIH"

2AMEN0T
TOT nPOTOT APX0NT02 ATR. I20KAE0T2 TO £

nder the Magifirates M. Aurelius Ilbcleus, Son of Afclepiades ; Aurelius
ieoteles, Son of Tyrannus ; and Aurelius Philoxemus, Son of Abafcan-
s ; by order of the Senate and People of Thera, Aurelius Ifocleus, Chief
agiftrate for the fecond time, has with Expence both of Time and Mony, erected
j Statue of the thrice mighty Emperor Casfar, Marcus Aurelius, Severus
■onions Pius, Auguftus, Arabicus, Adiabenicus, Parthicus, Germanicus.

ATP. TTXACIOC TON nATEPA
KAI EAnlZOTCA TON I A I O N
STMBION TTXACION
A # H P n I 2 A N.

tjrelius Tychafius for his Father, and Elpizoufe for her dear Husband Ty«
afius, confecrate the Tefiimonies of their mutual Love.

Ee 2 KAPnos

212 ^Voyage into the Levant.

KAPnOS TAN

I A I A N TTNAIKA

SHEIAA a*hpoisen

T H 2 MONANAPON.

Carpus has confecrated by this Monument his Love towards his deareft Wife
Soeide, who had no other Husband.

I COPY'D thefe Inscriptions at Paris from M. Spon's Collection of
curious Antiquities. Our Guides at Santorin had not the Wit to conduct
us to the noble Ruins of the Ifland ; fo, after we had view'd the Chappel
of St. Stephen, they perfuaded us we had feen whatever was worth Obfer-
vation in that Country : mean while the Weather was fo very tempting
for us to go to Nanfio, that our Mariners advis'd us to lay hold of the
opportunity.

n a n f i o. tfj NFIO is alfo one of thofe Iflands which made part of the Dutchv

A N A $ H» (

A nap he. of Naxia, under the Princes of the Line of Sana do and Crifpo. James\
Hiftory of the Crifpo, the twelfth Duke, who may juftly be (tiled the Pacifick, gave
jir Zfeiago. this Ifland to his Brother William, who rais'd a Fortrc-fs there, the Ruins;
whereof are yet to be feen on a Rock above the Town : he was Duke ofll
Naxia after his Brother 'James died; his only Daughter Florentia Crifpo\
remain'd Lady of Nanfio, nor was the Ifland annex'd to the Dutchy till|i
after her Death.
membaia. MEMBLIJROS was the antient Name of Nanfo, a Name taken:
from Membliares, a Relation of Cadmus, and who fettled at Thera inftead
of following that Hero in his Adventures. The Ifland we are fpeaking of
Tok 3 Ajj*- waS namecj jnAphe, on occafion of its being difcover'd by the Argonauts.
yja(wv°< r&- after a violent Tempeft, which had driven 'em to the further end of the
*$l°wvnt*- Archipelago; it was no very great catch of a Difcovery, the Ifland bein£
v^ccvh^o. a- k flxteen miies about, without ever a Haven, and its Mountains bare a;
w/. StePh> a Bone : yet is it not deftitute of noble Springs, fufficient to fertilize th<
Fields, with ever to little Application and Ingenuity.

ALL the Inhabitants are of the Greek Communion, and under th<
Bifhop of Siphno \ there are no Turks nor Latins among 'em: the Cad

anc

.Defcription of the IJland of Nanfio. 213

and Waivod go the Circuits. They are an idle fort of People, and their Letter VI.
whole Trade confifts in Onions, Wax, and Honey : as for Wood, I don't -^^^^^
think there's enough to roaft the Partridges the Country affords ; there
are fuch prodigious numbers, that for the prefervation of the Corn, they
take up all the Eggs they can light of about Eajrer-tide, and they gene-
rally amount to ten or twelve thoufand : they ufe 'em in all their Sauces,
in Omelets chiefly. Yet in ipite of this Precaution, we fprung a Covey
every foot ; they're of a very antient Breed, and came from ' AJlypalia : ' Stampaiia.
if any credit may be given to Hegefonder, a Burgher of this Ifland brought Athen. Deipn.
but a Brace to Anaphe ; but they mukiply'd ib faft, the People could fcarce
live for 'em : for which reafbn they ever fince have made it their practice
to deftroy the Eggs.

ONCE a year they chufe two Confuls, lometimes but one: thefe
Magiftrates had not Authority enough to procure us Bacon to lard our
Partridges ; the Greeks know nothing of larding ; fo we were forced to
cat 'em half boil'd, half roafled : this was not our greatefl grievance ; we
underflood there were Banditti hovering about the Ifland, efpecially at
Anophi-poula, an ugly Rock in fight of the Town. A Tartane of Mar-
tigues luckily putting in, diflipated our Fears : the Mafter made us a Pre-
fent of excellent Wine of Cadiere near Toulon, and had he been bound to
any Ifland of the Archipelago, we had gone along with him ; lb we chofe
rather to flay and roam about the Ifland, till the Banditti had quite clear'd
the Coafl.

TO the Sea, Southward, going to the Chappel of ' our Lady of the ' rw*,/«
Bull-ruin, you fee upon a fmall Rifing the Ruins of a Temple of Apollo > KeJ ^^mv
3 Egletes or Refulgent. Strabo, who [peaks of this Temple, fays not *?£* Az*v»
upon what occafion it was built ; it is"4 Cotton we learn it from : accor- yhfrnhxA-
ding to him, Jo-fin's Fleet in its Return from Colchis was overtaken with strah. R?r?
' fo terrible a Storm, they had no Reiburce but Vows and Prayers. Apollo ^|^b^°"
: was gracioufly • pleas'd to relieve fo many Heroes ; and accordingly a g°r-
1 ' Thunderbolt from Heaven falling into the Sea, immediately rais'd up an t """• **•
Ifland for their reception ; upon which they erected an Altar to Apollo, cem edo,
the Saviour of the Argonauts : they return'd their thanks to that God, ^(" coms
amidil an Affluence of Wine and good Cheer. Medea and the Ladies of
her Court perform'd the Honours of the Feftival : Wine and Joy infpired
I ' * 'em

<2 1 a ^Voyage into the Levant.

'em with Flights of Wit and facetious Repartees ; the Heroes, fays Cow//,
were the Butt of all the Railleries ; for betraying their Fear in the Storm,
'tis like : the whole Night was fpent in Sallies of this kind. Conon adds,
that after this Ifland was peopled, the Inhabitants celebrated the Anni-
veriary of this Efcape, by iacrificing to Apollo : there was no want of
Wine, nor, according to the Spirit of the Inftitution, could Pleafantry
be mining : the Greeks are admirable Fencers, where Wit's the Weapon.

THE Ruins of this Temple confift in fome pieces of Marble Co-
lumns : there is a beautiful Architrave, with a very long Infcription ; men-
tioning, belike, this Story of Conors, but 'tis fb worn, there's no making
any thing on't. Not far off, is built a Chappel, with the Materials of
the Temple. The Marble Quarry is hard by, at the foot of one of the
moil frightful Rocks I ever faw, and on which Hands a Chappel of the
Virgin. In the Neighbourhood you alfo fee the Ruins of a noble Edi-
fice of Marble, which looks to be none of the moil antique, but of the
time of the Dukes of Naxia,

AFTER we had fcaled this Rock, we rang'd through fuch places of
the Ifland, as afforded beft matter for Simpling : I there obferv'd the Fa-
gonia Cretica fpinofa. Inft. Rei Herb, which is not much more prickly
than that I met with in Spain, in the Kingdom of Granada, and which I
call'd Fagotti* Hifpanica, non fpinofa. Inft. 'Tis my opinion, thefe two
Kinds are but Varieties of the fame Plant.

BEING lure the Banditti were gone off", we prepared to pais over to
Stampalia, an Ifland forty miles from Nanfio, between the Eaft and Eaft-
North-Eaft ; but the Wind being againft us, we were forced to go to
Mycone, which we did not reach till the 2 2d of October, after putting in at
ieveral places.

THE Ifle of Mycone, which ftretches from Eaft to Weft, is 36 miles

about, j o miles from Naxia, 40 from Nicaria, and 1 8 from the Port of

Tine ; tho the Canal, which is between Cape Trullo of Mycone and le Tttte,

is but 1 8 miles broad : that of Mycone at Delos is no more than three

A ' 1 miles from Cape Alogomandra of Mycone to the neareft point of Delos :

park for for p/j>« who perhaps counts from one Port to another, makes it but

Horfes. J * L '

ngwjwa, 1 5 miles to this Canal. You fee there the two fmall Rocks of Prafonifi,

lfit of Leek:. which

_/',r_. t. -J. 1./ .

S/,l/e crt/a

t ■irrri*:si<ij ft

Jyh/3*lt?o*'a*rt. -="

r<istT/i/s/

De/ov .

fart S."~ Shan .

'I%s greater ^Dt:/cfz< . <?r

br& of <_yfo/>*i

-T.l.'.JL

-

1

Defcription of the IJland of My cone. 2 1 5

which MeiTieurs Spon and Wheeler took to be Tragonifi or Dragonera, ano- Letter VI.
therRock towards the Eaft-South-Eaft, and confequently out of the Canal j^^yt
we're fpeaking of. of Goats.

THE Port of Mycone is very open, and lies between the Well: and
Weft-North-Wcfl: ; but the Gulph, which is on one fide the Port, and is
impervious, is deep enough for the largeft Ships, which likewife it fecurcs
from the North Wind by means of a natural Jettee, form'd by Rocks on
a level with the Water's Surface. You enter this Gulph between the
North and North-North- Weft : the Port of Ornos is oppofite to the fur-
ther end, and looks between the South and South-South-Eaft. The Ifle
of St. George is at the point of the Gulph on the right hand : the other T^ofynvin, rjk
Ports of the Ifland are Port Palermo and Port St. Anne ; Port Palermo is nat'w'feof
a very large one, but too much expos'd to the North Wind ; Port St. Anne Pon ,0 ,f

J ° ' r ceive all forts

is likewife very bleak, and looks to the South-Eaft. »/ ships.

MTC ONE produces the beft Sailors of any in the whole Country •
there are at leaft 500 fea-faring Men in the Ifland, and above 100 Barks,
befides 40 or 50 large Saicks for the Trade to Turkey and the More a : that
to Turkey confifts in Hides, elpecially of ' Goats, which they take in at ' Cordouans.
* Siagi near Smyrna and Scalanova ; the Morea Trade at prelent lies in Wine, * Teos.
which the Mycomots fupply the Venetian Army with, at Napoli di Roma-
nia. There are fbrne Saicks of Mycone, which carry 7 or 800 Barrels of
Wine, each Barrel weighs 1 50 Pound French ; for the molt, part, 'tis mere 50 Oqu«s,
colour'd Water, and the Venetians pay 'em accordingly : the Greeks can't
forbear playing their tricks. Mycone ufaally affords 25 or 50,000 Barrels Authoiitasvi.
of Wine a year : the Vine has been very antiently cultivated there. TtinJn^iT
M.Wheeler bought upon the fpot a Silver Medal with J uf iter's Head on ^f'/'14'
one fide, and a Bunch of Grapes on the other. mtk o,

THE Ifland of Mycone is very dry, and its Mountains of no great > H;ft N
height ; the two mod noted are call'd by the Name of St. Elijah : one is ,,b- 4- «p.i2.
juft by Cape Trullo, as you enter the Canal of Mycone and of Tine ; the iem' Myconum
other is at the Extremity of Mycone, over againft Tragonifi. The Name £«°r*pe '«
Dimaftos, which ' Pliny gives to the higheft Mountain of the Ifland, will mtrfh. ln>.j.
quadrate with both of 'em, fince each has a forky Summit. I Ovid, who 12£jji
in his Voyage to Pontus had a nearer View of Mycone than 5 Virgil, was & li,tora cir-

, Clim errantem,

in the right on't to fay it was a low Ifland ; whereas Virgil fays quite the Mycone ceifa,

Gyaioque re-
^ COn- yinxit. JE.n.1,

2 id

A Voyage into the Levant.

lib. 10.

' Mvkuvhx

Strab. ibid.

♦ Ad Dionyf.
verf. 526.
1 Quippe My-
conii carentes
pilo gignuntur

contrary : not but that Humilis InfuU may likewife be taken for a mean
Myconos, hit- delpicable Ifland, as ' Statins calls the Ifland of Seripho.
pto?lS"i. ST R J BO reports, that the Poets made My cone to be the Bury ing-
' n<w8' dfo place of the Centaurs defeated by Hercules ; whence the Proverb, * Every
k *•! GeosT'"' 'thing is in My cone, of one that pretends in one and the lame Difcourfe
to touch upon all things. Stephens the Geographer, who copy'd Strabo
in this place, as in many others, delivers, that this Ifland took its
Name from one Myconus Son of ALnius ; but one is as little known as
t'other : 'tis a common thing for old Authors to be guilty of this Error.
The Remark of ! Strabo and 4 Euftathius is much better warranted, that
the Myconiots were apt to grow bald, fince at this day mod of the In-
habitants lofe their Hair at 20 or 25 Years old. 5 Pliny has another Ob-
■ fervation, that the Children are born without Hair ; for all that, the Inha-
bitants are a very handfome comely People : they were heretofore reckon'd
w?«S.i7. arrant Parafites, and would be ftill fo, were they to light of Cullies. We
read in Athenatts Ibme Verfes of Cratinus not much in their praife, but he
excules them on account of their Poverty.

OUR Franks call this Ifland Micouli ; it yields enough Barley for the
Inhabitants, abundance of Figs, but few Olives : Water is very fcarce in
Summer ; a huge Well ferves the whole " Town, which is the only one
of the Ifland, and contains fcarce 3 000 Souls : but for one Man, you lee
four Women, oftentimes lying among the Hogs in the open Street ; the
Men ufe the Sea very much. Two Confals are named every year to take
care of the publick Affairs. In 1700, the Myconiots paid 5000 Crowns to
the Capitation and Land-Tax : the Ifland was then under the Government
of Mezomorto, the Captain-Bamaw : in the laft War it was under the
obedience of the Bey of Stanchio, call'd 7 Cajfidi, who at this time has the
Command of fome Galliots to fcour the Archipelago of petty Rovers.

STRANGERS find it pleafant living at Mycone, provided they have

a good Cook, for the Greeks are the word in the world. Partridges are

very cheap and plentiful, as alfo Quails, Woodcocks, Turtle-Doves,

Rabbits, Wheatears ; there are delicious Grapes, and excellent Figs.

vi^aiuftf" They make their Salads with a kind of ! Sowthiftle, very whetting

fbiius c.B. t0 the Appetite when the Plate is rubb'd with Garlick. The Adra-

Couejio couiiil- * '

Hero. lida

•if;

* Muhovx »
<vbKlf. Ptol
Geog. lib. :
«.ap. I?.

1C

' Or Scald-
headed.

Defcription of the IJland of Mycone. 2 r 7

lida ' and the Radice ' are much in repute there : the firfl is a fort of Vi- Letter VI.
pers-grals, defence*! in a preceding Letter ; the Radice is prickly Chico- hko^n^
ry, whofe young Shoots naturally grow white in the Sand along the ^"ri^atlllJ
Sea-fide. In time of Lent they make a good Ragou with boil'd Vrouhs ; foljisvarie la-
the People here make delicious5 Cheefe: their pickled Quails are execra- infi.ReiHcrb,
ble ; they reduce thefe Birds in Vinegar to a fort of Pap : the Natives f f,df"/a*

' J o l ? Cichorium

admire 'em, becaufe it laves the Expence of Fire to drefs 'em. The Fewel fpinofum.es.
ufed here is Under-wood fetch'd from Delos. 'Pouino-

MTCONE was fome years together poifefs'd by the Dukes of Naxia. Hiftory of the
Father Sanger fays, that John Crifpo, the twentieth Duke of the Jrchipe- Anfr'qtlap.
logo, gave it in Marriage, together with the Ifle of ZJa, to his Daugh-
ter Thadde.t, Wife to Francis de Sommerive, who enjoy'd it not long-, and
the Venetians being become Mailers of Tinos, found Mycone to be conve-
nient for 'em, and fo the Proveditor of Tinos is to this very day caiTd
Proveditor of Mycone. Barbarojfa the Captain-Balhaw reduced it to the
Obedience of Solyman II. with almoft all the Iflands which the Repub-
lick had in the Archipelago.

IT mull not be forgot here, that Mycone and Tinos were conquer'd in the
Reign of the Emperor Henry by Andrew Gi&i, Ibme years after the taking
oiConftantinople by the French and Venetians. Jerome Gizi, his Brother, had
for his Allotment Skyro and Scopoli. From this Andrew defcends the Sieur
: Janachi Gizi, fb well known to your Lordlhip for his Services, and for
: whom you have procured Patents for Conful of Mycone and of Tinos ; his
1 Family has always behaved it lelf honourably ever fince the Latins became
1 Mailers of the Empire of the Eafl. Our Conful, who is a very religious
Perfon, has built at Mycone a Chappel to St. Lewis ; and he keeps in his
; Houfe a Prieil of our Communion to lay Mafs. The Latin Church of
the Burrough depends on the Bilhop of Tinos, who has put in a Curate,
and gives him 25 Roman Crowns a year for his Stipend ; M. Giz,irs Chap-
lain is better provided for : not that the Bilhop of Tinos is to be blamed,
fince the 4 Congregation allows no more to the Vicars of the other * r>e ptopa-
Iflands : nay, fome Biihops allow but 1 5 Crowns a year to their Vicars, §anda fiJe*
which they find enow ready to accept of, the Priells of the Archipelago
being very eager after thefe Polls, that they may live honourably at
their homes.

VoL I. Ff AS

2i 8 ^Voyage into the Levant.

AS fox Greek Churches, there are fifty in Mycone ; each has its Papa?
and almofl all the Inhabitants are of the Greek Rite : there is but one
Turk; and he the Cadi, who goes the Circuits. Thefe Cadi's purchafe a
Commiffion of the Grand Cadi of Scio, and then range the whole Archi-
pelago ; caufing notice to be given wherever they pafs, that all fuch as
have any Law-Suits on their hands, bring their Papers or WitnefTes, and
they iliall be immediately and with a moderate Charge difpatch'd. The
Greeks, who are naturally litigious, are fuch Fools as to come to this Tri-
bunal, inftead of making up matters amicably before the Adminiftrators
and Papas.
■ n****- THERE are many Chappels, and fbme Monafteries, at Mycone. • Pa-

TnmnZlurcb leoca.jiria.ni is a Nunnery with three or four Nuns, feated near the middle
cf the caftu. Qf ^ jflancj about * Paleocafiro, an antient decay'd Fortrefs on a pleafant
JX& ? Ptol. Hill. The Church of la ' Trinit'e is in the Circuit of Paleocafiro : that of
cap!SiV' St. Marina is not far off; every year they celebrate (on the 17th of July)
jyU'TW sH a Eighty Feftival, where they dance and drink after their fafhiou, that
pfriP1- r is, all day and night too. On the fide of Paleocajiro, in a fine Plain in
j^*the hv% fight of Port St. Anne , is the great Monaftery of ♦ Trulliani, pofiefs'd by
Trinity. ten or tweive He-Caloyers and fbme old She-ones : they have great Pot

* TjkmwJ, feflions in the Plain of ! Anomeria, the befl: and fruitfolleft part of the
IZclZdrli. Ifland. The Convent of St.Pantaleon is on this fide Paleocajiro, near
'Mo^k'^tbe port Palermo', but k contains not above three or four Religious. The

• n««j/«MS- forfaken Monafteries are that of the ' Virgin, St. George, and our Saviour J i
mva,, the vir- BESIDES the Conful of France, there's one for England, another for

£/» of Mycone. 7 - ■, ]

lA)hi Tt*>r Holland, tho no Ship of either Nation comes thither : but the Greeks i
''os\ fhelter themfelves from the Tyranny of Turks, under covert of fuch

Patents. The French Ships bound to Smyrna and Confiantinople pafs the
Canal of Tinos and of Mycone, fleering between the North and North-
Eaft : in foul Weather they ufually put in at Mycone, to get intelligence
about the War. The ordinary Route of the Englifo and Dutch is between
Negropont fand Macronift. There often arrive at Mycone French Barks, to
lade Corn, Oil, Cotton, and the like Commodities of the neighbouring
' Iflands.

THE Ladies of Mycone would not be difagreeable, were their Habits
but a little lefs ridiculous ; and yet an ordinary Suit fhall coft 'em 200

Crowns-

/.y-^

JPay aJf-

/;>/. i.

J',././ . Uj?

/////A v '-2ti >t/dice .

\
9

(7 jirr/- of eutdsr Pe&zaHUr

J/ivvf///,

Other varfo of tike* ////t-r/u/t// tfomens ///.>// ij/y/.

/<■•/. / ■

Tax?. ijj7l

P/r/v rr f//f tLmfrarel of /At » //i/rrvt/si/i 7/(^7/1^/7

*

m.i.

Xhy .pj-j

tl ' {2<rr~<&e£> .

J/IS-07U .

j'/^r,:..

<j7////?tKr ■

§

^//ur parte of ' {Ae^sffluccn/a/i 7/cm<vi.< <////?<//•/•/.

Defcription of the IJland of My cone. 2 1 9

Crowns ; fornc there are that come to 1 50 Sequins. 'Tis true, the La- Letter VI.
dies for the rnofl part clothe themlelves but once for their whole Life ; v~^yr"v-'
their Husbands have not the mortification of feeing 'em follow the Modes,
and dipping their hands in their Purfe every Change of the Seafon. I
am going to defcribe the feveral Parts of their Drefs, which is all over
Grotefque.

THE firfl is a fort of ' Under-Smicket A it has wrift-banded Sleeves, ' m^w.1
and is ufually made of Muflin, or a kind of fine Buckram, or Silk let oftnw&mn.
with Gold Lace or Embroidery : and thus are their rich eft Smickets no bet-
ter than a penitential Shirt, their Trimming making a Print on the Skin.

OVER this Smicket they wear a large ' Smock B. of Cotton or Silk, ' iW^ier.
with Sleeves as large as a Surplice : this reaches to their Mid-leg, and
fervesforan Under-Petticoat. It is garnifli'd with Lace, or embroider'd
with Silk or Thred of Gold and Silver.

THE third Piece is a fort of J Gorget or Stomacher C. cover'd with ! Zni**%wt:
Gold or Silver Embroidery ; this they apply to their Neck.

THEN they clap on a 4 Corflet D. with two Wings on the fides, and * m^sd?^-
two Openings to let the.Arms through j 'tis a kind of Bodice, without pronounced like
Sleeves: 'tis embroider'd.vvith Gold and Silver, adorn'd with Pearls; in&^k*"/^:
Winter they wear 'em with \ Sleeves. c^k* x?w

THIS Bodice extends three or four inches over the * Colubi, a kind e«7»'?H.
of Under-Petticoat F. very thick and full of Pleats, reaching no farther ' M^^*'cf-
than the Knees : they fallen k before with Ribbands. *,»,.

THE fixth Piece is an 7 Apron H. made of Muflin or embroider'd ' x,^,0"%

* Colibi, or Co-

Silk. Embroidery being an Invention of the Levant, they wear nothing low.

without it : and to lpeak truth, they excel even the French in that fort of ^ c/»«T

Work, as to Neatnefs ; but their Patterns are not fo well fancy'd. *nd *"fil*n'

IN Summer they wear8 Cotton Stockings, and in Winter red Cloth, » K*fT£«.
trimm'd with Gold or Silver Lace : thele Stockings are all full of Pleats,
for they wear four or five pair one over another. Their Garters are Rib- K*ezt6Ate«
bands edg'd with Gold and Silver Lace, faften'd through Loop-holes.

THEIR Slippers are Velvet; but the upper part fo fhort, that they Ksw^wW
cover nothing but the Toes, which gives the Ladies an ill Gait in walk- *"*
ing. Some among 'em have Venetian Shoes, which they tie with huge
laced Ribbands.

Ff2 LASTLY,

220 • ^ Voyage into the Levant.

i&tij?&»i LASTLY, Their Kerchief is a Veil of Muflin or Silk, ufually feJ
nfgfA*. yen or eight foot iong^ an{j tw0 broad, which they twine about their

Head and round their Chin, in a very agreeable manner, and which

gives 'em a fprightly Air.

THIS Ifland produces no extraordinary Plants; yet we met with

an Iris Tuberofa, folio angulofo. C. B. Pin. which we lit not of in any other

of the Iflands : I have made a particular Genus of it under the name of

Hermodatfylus.

WE obferv'd on that Mountain of St. Elijah which is by CapeTW?,'

that

Mxia lies between South-South-Eaft and South.
The letter Debs between South-South- Weft and South- Weft.
Paros in the fame Line. ^

The middle of the greater Delos and Cabronifi to the South-Weft.
Tragonifi to the Eaft-South-Eaft.
TW„W, Jjh TRAGONISI is an ugly Rock three miles about, one' mile from
ir^SL ty'one from Cape to Cape, below the Mountain of St. Elijah to the Eaft,
tho you'll find it near twenty miles to go from the Port of Mycone to that ;
of Tragonifi : at prefent there's neither He nor She-Goats, which former- 1
ly it fo abounded with, as to be call'd the Goat-Ifland. The Burghers i
of Mycone, efpecially the Monks' of TruBani, breed their Cartel there;. I
but the Shepherds are obliged to take >em up in Afrit, when the Rain- l
water begins to fall ihort. The Sheep-coat is pretty enough, but the (
twoChappels, built there fometime fince, have only four Walls.

STAPODIA is five miles off Tragonifi; it is a Rock form'd in lhape i
of a Saddle, and is cover'd with four or five pretty Plants : there's nei-
ther Shepherd nor Sheep, becaufe there's not a drop of frdh Water, and
k is frequently oveflowM by the Sea in many places.

1 am, &c.

A A ^

l W W

LET-

( 221 )

LETTER VII.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartraii^
Secretary of State, &c.

My Lord,

H E Greeks to this very day call by the name of • Dili two Rocks Defcriptton of

„ . . . . , , . , , , __ , , - . . the Iflands of

of the Archipelago ; they are both of 'em utterly deierted, and Ddos..

only ferve for a Retreat to Pirates and Robbers : the * largeft ' A"*«-
"° was antiently callM the Ifle Rhenia, and the ; other was known Ao? p^.««>an"
by the name of Debs, the Center of the famous Cyclades. This latter, ^uorurn-
which is not above feven or eight miles in circuit, tho + Pliny allows it quor. '
fifteen, was look'd upon as a 5 Sacred Place, from the moment a Report *!'*,%* f^**
was fpread, that Latona was there deliver'd of Jpo/Io and Diana. TheF^nks cali
Greeks, who were famed for Wit and Ingenuity before the Romans, were * ma. Nat.
fo attach'd to Delos, fix'dfo many Honours upon it, and made it lb mag-s1,b*4'cap'12*
nificent, that it became the Admiration of After-Ages : never was Ifland Geog/iib-io.
fo highly extoll'd; Pindar and CaUimachws compos'd Hymns in its ho-
nour. Eryfichton, Son of Cecraps the firft King of Athens, erected there a
Temple to Apollo : this Temple, which; afterwards became one of the E"kb. anon,,
ftatelieft Edifices upon earth, Hood at the entrance of a mighty City CedreiTcom-
built all with Granate-ftone and Marble, adorn'd with a Theatre, Piazza's, WeLchro i
a Bafon for the Reprefentation of Sea-Fights, a Gymnafium, and a pro- noKjca(MS.
digious number of Altars. SfSSf*

JUDGE, my Lord, how impatient we were to fee. a Country fo cele- v«c 266,
brated by Authors. The Ifland of Delos, which is full three times as
long as 'tis broad, ftands between two fine Canals, the one towards

pfycone}

222 A Voyage into the Levant.

Mycone, and the other towards the Ifle Rhenia .- in that of Mycone, which
n&mvimi, is Eaft-North-Eait, are a couple of fcurvy Shelves, accompany'd with
Lceki." "' forae Rocks. The Canal is three miles over, from Cape Alcgomandra in
Mycone to the neareft Point of Delos ; but they reckon it fix miles from
the Port of Mycone to the little Port of Delos, the ordinary Landing-
place : it is fifteen miles from this little Port to that of St. Nicolo of Tinos.
Pliny was not well acquainted with the diftance between Mycone and Delos •
for he determin'd it fifteen miles : he is likevvife miflaken in that between
Delos and Naxia, which is forty miles, tho he reckons it but eighteen. As
for that between Delos and Nicaria, he is right in faying it is fifty miles.
rPs(*tTw>?> THE Canal which runs between the two Dtlos's is fcarce half a mile
laborans: 'Pe- broad towards the greater Rematiari, a Rock fo call'd: the oddnefs of its
£bm5? ST Name rais'd in me a Curiofity to fearch after its Etymology ; and tho it
Ptt///.*x<£W. was a dilcovery of no great importance, yet I can't help being pleas'd
with it. Rematiari in the vulgar Greek fignifies a Perfbn fubjedt to
Fluxions: now as this Rock, being fomewhat flat, is frequently over-
flow'd by the Waters of the Canal, the Greeks, who are a facetious Peo-
ple, have given it the name of Rematiari ; that is to lay, an Ifland fub-
je&toRheumatiiins, or to be often overwhelm'd with Water. The An-
•Ewtk n»<™ tients held this Rock in great veneration, and confecrated it to Dianx
WrliZ n>* under the name of Hecate : for we read in Suidas, that it was call'd the
«/jw, &c. jQan<j 0f Hecate, or Pfammite, from the name of certain Cakes there
ofter'd in facrifice to that Goddefs.

A S this Rock ftands in the narroweit part of the Canal, it was in all
likelihood pitch'd upon by Polycratcs, the famous Tyrant of Samos, for
Ttmcyiiib.;. extending that Chain mention'd by Thucyd.id.es, which faften'd the Ifland
Rhenia to Delos, and is a proof they confecrated the former to Delia*
Plutarch, in Apollo. It is alio probable, that this was the very place where Nicias
crofs'd the Canal to enter into Delos ; nothing can excel the Pompoumefs
of this Entrance. Nicias being inform'd that the Priefts deputed from the
Grecian Cities generally landed in a diibrderly manner, and that they
were often enjoin'd to fing the Hymns of Apollo without giving 'em time
to dreis, order'd the Victims, and Prefents, and whole Retinue, to put
alhore in the Ifland of Rhenia, In the night they laid a Bridge over the
Canal, and next day to every body's great lurprize was feen this Proceflion

marching

j&iand df$)J5ZOS .

Jhtib of a . jf/fc

But ofp t/r,.;/,-,- £W<v <■</// U t/is Ir/mu/ 7t/tS,U,7

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y.'lbnm in rtasts .

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jo. t tettm, .//y
jr. Tti/istr -of d/io/iitt U. ,
j zJirsAsn /ns,-£S <•/■*. /£"/■/'
2,a>ns

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iS.Jluifw tfihi '/>■'<■"
j j. J7ts !&n -ri (f.tt£ '

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zjBumj of (fit fen'o ■;>
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It h f:'xr i

222

I"T£$!!n>!'iicn>/,
the JJles of
Leeks.

Rheumatifmo
laborans: 'Ps-
IMTi^eiV, aquis
obrueie, pro

My.
is )
fbn
My,
rhe
phi
Pli
for
De,
for

bro
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was
wit
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ffv'J)wt &C. Tfl.li

Suid. llU!

offe
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ext<
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Thucyd. lib.

Plutarch, in
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7/Z<ZS? /&

'• 'JC71-7J i

Defer ipt ion of the Iflands of Delos. 223

marching over the Bridge, cover'd with rich Tapeftry, with Parapets Lett. VIL
painted with Gold and beautify'd with Flowers ; all which was brought '-^"V*^
Horn Athens : the Company proceeded in good order, finely deck'd out,
and finging moll: melodioufly. In Apollo's Temple they perform1 d the
Sacrifice : Games were not omitted, nor magnificent Repafts forgot. A'/'-
eias caus'd to be rais'd a tall Palm-Tree of Brafs, which he confecrated
to the God of the Ifland : he did more, he appropriated the Income of a
confiderable Farm for a yearly Entertainment of the Delians, thereby to
procure the Blefling of the Gods by Sacrifice. This Donative, to render
it authentick and irrevocable, was grav'd on a Pyramid.

THE Canal above-mention'd is three miles broad from Camels Cape to cabo Caa&j
Port Pjrgos of the greater Delos ; one of its Mouths is to the South, the
other to the North. The great. Rewatiari is to the South- Weft, the little
Rematiari to the Weft : the diftance between 'em is the fame as from the
little Delos to the great Rock ; but the diftance of this great Rock and
the greater Delos, is far more. Ships of War call anchor towards the
j South Point of the great Rematiari, where is good Anchoring ; and no
Iefs than ioo Ships of War have been leen there after the Battel of Herod- llb-8v
j Salamin, to refcue Ionia from the Tyranny of the Perjians : Diodorus Si- Bibiioth. Hifc.
:ftf/#*faysitconfifted of 2 5oGallies.

SHIPS pais between the two Rocks and the greater Delos, when
they would go out by the North Paflage : the Gallies anchor a little lower
to the South. The other part of this Canal, which is between the
Rocks and the lefler Delos, ferves as a PalTage to the Galliots and Saicks.

WE fet out from Mjcone with M. Gizi Conful of France, who was fb oflober24i
■kind as to give us his Company in examining into the Ruins of this '
Ifland : our impatience to get thither, did not permit us to go fo far as
the little Port; we landed at a narrow piece of Land (i) to the North-
Eaft, the utmoft Extremity of the Ifland, a fmall Lake (2) about twenty
miles broad, which is never dry but in the hotteft Weather, and is full in
Winter. The Tamarisks which grow about it, rejoiced us; the more,
becaufe we needed not fear perifhing with Thirft in that place, as Met
fieurs Spon and Wheeler ran a rifque in 1675. This Lake is fifty paces
from the Sea, on that fide which faces the greater Delos y and 280 from
che Point of Land where we put afhore.

224 A Voyage into the Levant

-fywZoTo; IT fhould feera, that this piece of Water is that Morafs Ipoken of

vi£j?t eppss by Callimachus and Herodotus ; for the Name of Morals can by no means

Hym.' on Dd! aSree witn tne Fountain Inopus, forafmuch as Callimachus makes feparate

verf. 261. mention of 'em : neither is it credible that this Morafs Ihould be the oval

AR^rHerod. Baf°n wherein they uled to perform mock Sea-fights, becaufe it is not at

lib. 2. an likely they Ihould give the name of a Morafs or Lake to a Balbn made

by manual Labour, very well cemented, and which they uled to fill, as

we fhall make appear, with Sea-water, when they had a mind to repre-

Naufttejd'*. fent Naval Engagements. It mull therefore be concluded that our Lake,

which belike has. been partly fill'd up fince then, is the round Morafs

of CalUmachus and Herodotus.

WITHIN 255 paces from this Lake, beyond a fmall Eminence, is a
very flat Spot of Ground, with one of the noblelt Springs (j) in all the
Archipelago; 'tis a fort of Well, about twelve paces diameter, incloled
partly by Rocks, and partly by a Wall ; the Compafs of it is in Winter
laid under water : in October there were 24 foot of Water, and above $0
in January and February. This wonderful Spring is 1 00 paces from the
A Coaft which faces the greater Delos ; but it is much farther from that which

is oppofite to Mycone.

SURE LY this Spring mull be the Fountain hioptis of Pliny ; for I
have heard 'em fay at Mycone, that this of Delos role and fell at the fame 1
liifd" Ge0=* time with the River Jordan. £ Strabo fays, 'tis carrying Prodigies too 1 ,
MuDeioin- far, to bring the Nik as far as Delos. [Pliny goes more ferioufly to.,
fonVeTm work, and lays that the Fountain Inopus rofe and fell as the Nile did : the , .,
quo Nilus .mo- peopie 0f Mycone have retain'd this Fable by Tradition, but they con-
cimi eo dcaef- found Jordan with the Nile. I Callimachus Ipeaks of Inopus as a deep Wa-
Cp)mM™.xat. ter, and* Strabo as a little River. Our Spring has 24 foot of Water in
Kb.*, cap.101. Summer, asisfaid before. The Venetian and Turkijh Fleets water there;
'J* vaf.263. and I'm perfuaded that antiently it fupply'd both the Delos' 's with Water,
4 no7»^c< 5 for there's no Spring in Rbenia. Strabo mull have been wrong inform'd ;
Jo7i*v™V£ neither is there any Rivulet in Delos, except fome Trenches for con-
v-w >b #j Ve.yin2 Rain-water,

"i[

stiab. Rcr. WITHIN 124 paces from this noble Spring, near the Illhmus which

parts from the reft of the Illand the Tongue or Point of Land we de-

4. bark'd

I

Defcription of the IJlands of Delos. 22 £

bark'd at, is another (4) Hollow very deep, but dry ; we were told 'twas Lett. VII.
full in January and February.

THE upper end of this Ifthmus, on the left, you enter the Ruins of
the (5) antient City of Delos. We at firft difcover'd the Shafts or Shanks
of fix Pillars of Granate, one foot four inches in diameter, pofited on
the fame line, three upright, one Hoping, and two bury'd fo as we could
only fee the Diameters.

WITHIN 196 paces, towards the left, in a line with the fame Ruins
(6), you fee within thirty or forty paces from the Sea five fair Columns
of Marble, fixteen inches diameter, dilpos'd likewile in the fame rank.
And twenty five paces farther there are pieces of other Columns of Marble
gutter'd, two foot three inches diameter : near hand are found fbme other
pieces of Marble, and a little higher up along the Sea (7) rife two Pillars
of Granate, fquare, very flender. Thefe are all the Remains of Antiqui-
ty on the Coaft of Delos, over againfl Mycone : this was not the beau-
tifulleft part of the City ; the Ports which are between the two Delos's
made the Weftern Coaft be juftly prefer'd to that of the Eaft-North-Eaft,
'where are nothing but Shallows.

THE City therefore, inftead of extending to the Coaft of Mycone,
made a fort of Angle through the Ifland, towards the Weft, and following
the Hope of a fmall Hill (8), came and join'd one of the proudeft Edi-
;:fices (9) of the Ifland, if we may judge from its Ruins ; it was perhaps a
Portico fupported by a Colonnade, as is apparent from the Moulds and
'Pilafters: the Ruins of this Building are within 330 paces from Mycone,
almoft over againft the two Pillars of Granate (7) mentioned before. To-
wards the grand Delos, they anfwer to the Calanque of Scardana (i})>
which is 523 paces off: you fee among thefe Ruins nothing but broken
Marbles, Pedeftals, Pilafters, Architraves, wooden Moulds for Arches, and
•evers'd Bafes ; molt of the Columns were carry'd off: thofe that remain,
ire but fixteen inches diameter, and the Pilafters are a foot five inches
jroad. The Moulds are of one fingle fquare piece, five foot diameter,
rut fcmicircular, broad in the clear three foot four inches, with Mouldings
Df a noble Simplicity. There are Pedeftals three foot two inches diz-
neter, three foot and a half deep, cylindrical ; and on the Body of one
jf thefe Pedeftals are yet to be feen the Traces of a very long Infcrip-
Vol. I. G g tion ;

226 A Voyage into the Levant.

tion ; but fo worn by Time, that better Antiquaries could make nothing:
of it. After much difficulty, we perceiv'd the following Characters^.
A N 1 1 G \, which perhaps form'd the beginning of the Name of Antio-
chus ; that which feems to be a A. may have been an A. the firft I. may
ferve for a Leg of a T.

ANTIOCHVS EPJPHJNES, or Epimanes, King of Syria, had
embeliih'd Delos with many Altars and Statues ; as appears by a PafTage
Deipn, lib. 5. in Polybius, quoted in Atbenxus. The Fragment of the 41ft Book of
Livy feems only to be a Copy of what Polybius had publiih'd concerning
that Javifh Prince : peradventure he had caus'd to be built that Portico
where had been rais'd his Statue on. the Pedeftal we're fpeaking of ;
among thefe Pedeftals, are two Corinthian Chapiters, the others have
been carry'd away to make Mortars of, according to the Cuftorn of the
Levant.

AFTER perufing thefe Ruins, we went up a fmall Hill on the right (8)j *
where we difeover'd fome refidue of a Building. Advancing toward the a
Sea, we went up a fteeper Mountain (10), but yet not fo fteep as Mount L
Cynthus which we had flill in our eye. Between thefe two Hills are two
Citterns (n, 12), with no Rain-water in'em, and the Remains of feme
Marble Columns, which may have been Materials of a Temple; On the ?
Mountain ( 1 o) you lee the Foundations of part of the City, which ftretch'd (
as far as the Sea : Mr. Wheeler fufpedts, not without reaibn, that this was "
the new Athens of Adrian, built by the Athenians at that Emperor's
©ATMmEi- charge, and call'd Olympieion by Stephens the Geographer.. This Name is-
©N. Steph. derived from the Sirname of Olympian, mark'd on a Medal of the Nice-
©5>{OMi'fx- medians, where Adrian is call'd Olympian God: the fame Name is given :i
Nwpijiw' him on a Medal of the Ephefutns, where he is reprefeuted with Lucius ' w
'Av™. Ka/- yirus, Adrian being at Athens, built a Temple and an Altar there, which
cW/Kiwej, a«- he himfelf confecrated by the name of Olympian Jupiter.
3SU^!*Le- ON one fide the City of Adrian extended to the Gymnafium ( 15), and •
gend. £<pi<nov. on tfre other to the Portico of Antiochus, without any interruption be-
n y&yltM a tween that new Town and the great one where was the Tempie of -.i .1-
I^Ih'vqk- 1° '• nor are r^ere to ^ round hi any other part of the Town either Foun-
a« ?5fi«w. dations or Rubbiih : from whence we may conjecture that they made but

Calhm.Hymn. J J

on Delos, one fingle powerfiil City of all the little Towns which gave Xlalltmtchtts

verf. 266.

occa-

Ib

Defer ipt ion of the Ijlands of Delos. 227

occafion to call Delos a many-town'd Ifland. It appears from an Infcrip- Lett. VII.
rion, reported by M. Upon, the Marble whereof is in M. Baudelofs MiCIu^
Clofct, That there were feveral Temples in the new Athens of Delos ; *""* fea*10*
namely, thofe of Apollo, Hercules, Neptune.

FROM this Mountain you difcern the Calanque of Scardana (ij),
where landed Meflicurs Spon and Wheeler, and which they took for a fmall &m*w *)
Port : but this finall Port is higher up towards the Point of the little Re- **"*"
tnatiari.

ON the fide of this Calanque, within 170 paces of the Sea, in a flat
Spot (1 5), arc flill Handing fix Pillars of Granate, and a fquare Pillar of the
fame Stone : there were eleven Columns (landing when Meflieurs Spon and
Wheeler arrived there; we counted 25 thrown down; both forts feem'd
to have been pofited fquare : fome are a foot and a half diameter, others
two foot within two inches ; moft of 'em are nine foot and a half high.
Tradition will have it, that this Place was the Gymnafium of the Ifland ;
and therefore the Corfairs call this Delos the School, to diftinguifh it from
the grand Delos. This pretended Gymnafium was all of Granate, or
Stone of the Country : the Granate was drawn out of Mount Cynthus ;
The Infcriptions fpeaking of Gymnafiarchs, are in an oval Bafon I'm go-
ing to defcribe.

O N the left hand, about forty five paces from the Gymnafium, in a
narrow Bottom, is the Fountain of the Maltefe (16), a fmall Well whole
Mouth is even with the ground, and lozenge-faihion : in Ofiober, January,
and February, the Water was not above feven or eight foot deep.

WITHIN a hundred paces of the Gymnafium, almoft on the fame
line, and within 345 paces from the Sea, is an ovalBafbn (17), being 289
foot long, 200 broad, furrounded with a Wall about four foot high, al-
moft wholly faced with a very thick Cement, and fit to keep Water ; it
^mpty'd it felf through a Canal a foot and a half broad, which came from
:he Sea, and whole Mouth was oppofite to the Gymnafium. This Bafon xoeer^xjx*-
,is at this day calVd- the Dancing-fpot, or a place proper to dance in; and t^v71™'
indeed 'tis fit for nothing but Sailors and Fifhermen to dance in. The
intient Authors do not lay pofitively that they ufed to reprcfent Naval
3attels at Delos, yet this Balon feems to have been defign'd for fuch-like
Sxercifes ; but then the Ships muft have been very fmall ones : whereas

G g 2 the

228 A Voyage into the Levant.

the open Canal between the two Delosrs feems to be an admirable place
for fuch Spectacles in a fair Day, fince the People of both Wands might
from the Coaft behold 'em with all the convenience in the world; befides,
there was fpace and depth enough for Gallies and common Ships to ad.
Be that matter as it will, the Rain-water which had gathered in the faid
Bafon was briny and almoll: bitter, whereas that of other Pools of Rain
was fweetifh ; which feems to argue that this Balbn was formerly fill'd
with Sea-water, whole Salt and Slime is in great quantities (till remaining.
I T is not furprizing, that Meflieurs Spoa and Wheeler took this Balbn
for the Morals of Callimachus ; they had ill Guides, and faw neither the
round Lake we have been defcribing, nor the Fountain Inopus : the difc
covery of this Fountain was owing to our Impatience ; for we had not
feen the Slip of Land where it is, had we gone as far as the little Port:
whereas thofe Gentlemen coming from Tinos, pafs'd quite through the
grand Canal, and landed at Scardana. The Comparifon made by He*
lib. 2. c.170. roAotus of the Morals which is in Egypt at Sau near Minerva's Temple
with that of Delos, appears at firfb fight to favour their Sentiment,.'
fince that of Sais was inclos'd with a very handfome Wall, as well as
the Balbn we are (peaking of; but that Author's Comparifbn mould
feem rather to fall upon the Figure and Largenefs of the Morafs of Delosy
than on its Ornaments.

GOING down into this Balbn (now half fill'd up with Earth) we
prelently dilcover'd a Iquare Pedeftal, two foot five inches high, and two
foot one inch broad, half broken, and only affording part of an Infcrip-
tion, which (peaks of the Gymnafiarch Seleucus of Marathon. It is here
underneath reported intire, juft as Meflieurs Spon and Wheeler read it in
1675. the fide that's crofs'd (hews what is milling; for atprefcnt there
is no finding any more than what remains on the right hand.

©PAAATOY

XEAETKOS
rTMNASIAPXilN-

AS

Defcription of the IJlandr ofDdos. 229

A S for the Inscription of MithrMates Eupator, mention'd by Meflleurs Lett. VIL
Spun and Wheeler, it has fince then perhaps been taken away : it is not at l->r"v^y^
all furprizing to meet with Statues to thofe two Princes in this Ifland ; to
Mithridates Evergetesf on account of his Benefactions ; to his Son Eupa-
tcr, on account of his Formidablenefs : he caus'd Delos to be plunder'd
and fack'd, under pretext that me had deferted his Friends the Athenians, smb. Rer;

Geo°\ lib 1 22

During the Difbrder therefore which his Troops caus'd there, the Statues F|or° £ '
Ox Mithridates were fpared, but no Refpect at all {hewn to thofe of other caP- J*
Princes*

W E perceiv'd on the left hand, and in the fame Bafon, a Relique of
another Pedeftal, in figure cylindrical, half bury'd in the Sand : after we
had uncovered and wafh'd it, we read on it part of an Infcription fbme-
what maul'd by Time or Accidents, which makes mention of the King
Nicomedes Epiphanesy and of a Gymnafiarch who had caus'd a Statue to
be erected to him. This Pedeftal is feventeen inches diameter j the In-
fcription is as follows.

BA2IAEK2 NIKOMHA.-

TOT ETTONOT BASUEQS *

NIKOMEAOT Enl*ANOT

....KOTPlAHS aIOSKOPUOTm

PAMNOTSIOS TTMNA2IAPXO.

IT is the fame Nicomedes as put his Father Prufias to death, and who Appian. d«

» J Bells MiwiJa»

was'fiicceeded by Nicomedes Philopator his Son. I bought at Erzeron a
Silver Medal of Nicomedes Epiphanes : the Head is admirable, but the Re-
verfe was not done by the fame Hand.

ON

230 ^Voyage into the Levant.

O N the right hand of this Bafon, towards the bottom, about fifty
paces as you go up a fmall Eminence (18), there are ftill fubfrfting the
Fragments of fome glorious Temple, by what may be gather'd from fe-
veral Marble Columns about twenty two inches diameter, half fluted, and
half pannel'd, or perhaps fluted at both ends, and cut in fquare Panes in
the Inter-ipaces ; the Flutings i^or Channellings) and the Panes are three
inches and a half broad. We could only read the word aiontsiot
on the Remnant of an Altar, cylindrical, far bigger than the preceding
Pedeflals, adorn'd with Heads of Oxen, Feftoons, and Bunches of
Grapes : the .upper part of this Altar is ibmewhat hollow, and proper to
burn Incenfe on ; by this we rauft diftinguifh Altars from Pedeflals that
fupported Statues, and which confequentiy were quite flat. Thele Altars
are frequent in both Delos's ; we met with one fo very fine, I caus'd it to
be graved.

SOME paces from thence, on one end of a Marble Architrave, is to
be read in very fair Characters three inches deep, ontsiot e t, the
Remnant of a i o n t 2 1 o r etttxot, mention'd by Meffieurs Spo»
and Wheeler ; but the latter places it too near the Portico of Philip of
Maeedon.

M. SPO A7 doubts whether that Dionyfias Eutyches was the Son of that
famous Tyrant of Sjracufe, with whom the Carthagittians had fuch bloody
Wars : it is however certain, that the Sirname of Happy fuits better
''Euiu%&.tk. with his Father, whom Diodorus Siculus calls very fortunate : contrariwife,
m^it lli(t' trie Son was themofl unhappy of all Men; about the end of his Life, he
was obliged to keep a School for his Bread. If the Infcription means
the fir ft Tyrant of Sjracufe, it fhould feem as if that Deflroyer of Tem-
ples had a mind to atone for his Wickednefs by making Prelents to Apollo.
Why may not this Dionjfius have been one of the Tyrants of Heracleat
who reign'd very happily for the fpace of thirty Years, according to
1 ApuJPhot. • Mention ? ' Diodorus isictdus extends his Reign to thirty two Years, and
* BibHo^KHift.' '--dthenjeus to thirty three. He better deferves the name of Happy than
lib. 14, & 20. Dionyfius of Syracufe, who was the Curie of the Age he lived in.
ci/.'le.1 12 FROM this Architrave, verging Sea-ward, you.come to the Ruins of
part of a Town, along the Coafl. Two paces from the fame Architrave
you meet with fome Remains (19) of Lions in Marble much broken, tho
fa more

Defcription of the Ijlands of Delos. 235

Hiore eafy to difcovcr than thofe which are on the fide of Apollo's Temple. Lett. VII.
The Sieur OJlovichi, one of the mod lubftantial Burghers of Mycone, who V-<^V^*J
is every day a hunting at Delos, allured us that fome time ago he faw five
whole ones.

AFTERWARDS are difcover'd the Ruins (20) of a mod ftately
Building, at the end of an oval Bafon facing the Temple of Apollo ; an in-
finite number of Marble Pillars demonftrate that they were laid out hi a
Square as broad as the little Diameters of this Balbn : it was perhaps a Por.
tico built by Dio»yfius Eutyches, whole Infcription we had feen ; for the
Architrave and Altar with that Prince's Name thereon, are juft by thole
Ruins : fome of the Columns are ftill Handing ; moll of 'em are down
and broken to pieces : there are plain ones twenty inches diameter, and
others cut in Pannels eighteen inches, both intermix'd with huge Pillars
of Granate.

FROM this Portico towards the little Port (14), there's nothing but
Marble Columns and Pillars of 'Granate : thefe Columns are two foot
diameter, and their Channellings four inches broad. Thele Wrecks (21)
are lo magnificent, that we took *em for Fragments of LutoncCs Temple. T° autoo?.

° ' & r Strab. Rer.

THEY reckon about 24a paces from the oval Baibn to Apollo's Tern- Geog. lib. io-3
pie (22), the Ruins whereof are Hill more relplendent than thofe of the
other Edifices of the Ifland : this Temple, lb refpected among the An-
tients, fituated near a hundred paces from the little Port, was the Work
of all the Powers of Greece,. who contributed. to its Erection and Main-
tenance. Plutarch tells us it contain'd one of the leven Wonders of the DeSokit. .
World, which was an Altar built with Horns difpos'd with marvellous Art,
without either Glue or Pegs. It is to be fear'd this Author exaggerates
the Beauty of this Piece, as much as the Alcyons Nells.

THE Remains of Apollo's Statue. (2 3), are almofl: at the firfl of thele ■
Ruins, and confift in two pieces ; the Back for "one, the Belly and Thighs
for the other : they have left him neither Head, nor Arms, nor Legs. It
Was a Colofiial Statue of one fingle Block of Marble, the Hair falling
ibout his moulders in large rings. The Back is fix foot broad,' but there
irenofigns of any Ornament to be leen,. nor do. the oldeft Inhabitants
tfMycone remember they ever law that Figure whole; the Trunk of it is
quite naked, and is ten foot from the Haunch to the Knee. The Sculpr

tors

2Q2 A Voyage into the Levant

t6t$ of thofe Times knew better than to place fo large a Figure at an
ordinary diftance : in all probability it was defign'd for the Frontifpiece
of a Temple, whence it might appear no bigger than the Life ; and there-
by we may judge of the Height of that Edifice. We may alfo con-
jecture by the Ruins, which are above 500 paces long, that the Frontif
piece of that Temple fronted the greateft Delos, and that it was cover'd
with a Dome of a great diameter.

THESE Ruins are at prefent huge pieces of broken Columns, Ar-
chitraves, Bales, Chapiters, in difbrderly heaps ; among the reft, is a
quarter of a Marble well fquared out, which doubtlefs ferv'd as a Plinth
to Apollo's Statue : it is fifteen foot and a half long, ten foot nine inches
broad, and two foot three inches thick, with a hole in the middle, as if
chey had a mind to fcoop it to make it the lighter. It bears this Infcrip-
tion, in very fair Characters :

k

KASIOI AnOAAflNl. j \:

k

*o A <bsmi PLVTA RCH relates in the Life of Nicias, that that illuftrious Athe- -
&fV0viJLSfm,v n"in caus'd t0 De fet UP near tne Temple of Delos a huge Palm-Tree of
lmt*.<u?Li< Brals, which he confecrated to Apollo ; and that the Winds afterwards threw
N<4i*>" dvfer down this Tree on a Cofeffial Statue rais'd by the Inhabitants of Naxos : !
i^'x*v'vr£' ll is beyond doubt, that this was the Statue of Apollo we are fpeaking of
4f : A1"' in As for the Infcription, 'tis certainly of thole Times, and mews that the
Stone which bears it was the Plinth of the Statue ; but then we muft alfo
conclude, that this Statue was as yet upon the ground, or that the Palm-
Tree which threw it down was on the top of the Temple.

O N the Plinth over againft the Infcription of the Naxiots, you read
another in Characters fo uncouth, that they puzzle the moll: ingenious
Men of thofe Iflands. M. Spon at firft fancy'd 'em a-kin to the antient
Tufcan Letters ; but M. Wheeler and he, after a thorow Examination, con-
cluded 'em to be vulgar Greek, tho they could not interpret them : the
following is an exact Copy.

TWO

Defer iption of the I/lands of Delos. 233

TWO of the greateft Men of this .Age, without being told whence Lett. VII.
I had this Infcription, and without once feeing each other, without con- t^TX^0
ferring together, explain'd it ofF hand, and jump'd fb exactly in their Opi- nuJ de Mont-
nions, that it perfectly furpriz'd rae. Father Hardouin thinks that the Congregation
four firfl Letters intend fome proper Names ; and Father Dom Bernard "Lf'^her
doubts not but they are antient Ionian Characters, anfwerins: to the fol- "aidouin "/

' ' « the Society of

lowing : f*[m.

To Xido i$l) '<XV<fl$tX$ >(Cf.l TO GCpilwi.

Hnic lapidi ineji Jlatna & fcabellam, according to Father Hardouin : In

lapide fum (vel efi) Statua & Bafts, according to Father Bernard. fealawg. gr.

lib. 2. cap. I.

THE nobleft Columns were in the Front ; cylindrical, but aimoft n^W.
oval, cut plat-band before and behind, with the fides rounded and fluted ;
jtheir biggeft Diameter was three foot five inches, and that from one Plat-
jband (or Lift) to the other, two foot four inches and a half: the Plat-
bands were one foot five inches broad, and the Flutings near four inches.
Thefe Columns were, in feveral Lays, pofited one on another, and pieced
together by three Keys, whereof thoie on the fides were fquare, and en-
ter'd into holes two inches diameter ; that in the middle went into an
Opening half a foot long, an inch broad, about feven inches deep,
with a fort of cylindrical Nut, as appears by the Figure in the Margin.
'Among thefe noble Columns, there were likewife fome round and fluted,
|two foot two inches diameter.

THIS Temple was embcliihM with Variety of Statues, and innume-
rable Altars : moll of thofe now in being are three foot within two inches
diameter, and two foot two inches high ; but their Ornaments have quite
loft their Beauty. There is but one Corinthian Chapiter amongft a world
of Marble Studs, fuch as we fet at a Street's-end to keep off Carnages.

THE frightful Heap of Marble Ruins feems to indicate the Situation
of fome confiderable Dome, fupported by Columns of a fingular Order,
:ach Lay being faften'd in its Centre with Keys of Copper, fquare, three
inches diameter : the Lays are commonly three foot fave two inches
broad, two foot eight inches deep ; fome of thefe are cut in Panes, others
fluted very prettily.

Vol. I. H h THE

o

oa A Vo y A g e into the Levant.

THE Chapiters of thefe Columns were very extraordinary; their
Abacus is three foot five inches diameter, three inches deep : the Tim-
panum is nine inches deep, and is a fort of Quarter-round, the Bofs (or
Relievo) whereof leffeniug like a Pear, falls on a Fafcia two inches deep,
with three Fillets, beneath which begin the Flutings; the Plane of the
Chapiters which bear on the Shank of the Columns is two foot diameter.

HARD by the Ruins of the Temple, you fee four huge pieces of

Marble (24), lb mif-fliapen, no body would take *em to be Lions, had

not Tradition authoriz'd them for fuch. There are likewife two broken

Termini, (or Bounder-Gods ;) one has the Head of a Horfe, the other

that of an Ox : thefe Heads are fadly batter'd, nor do the Termini them-

felves feem to have been more than moderately beautiful ; yet they pur

irefe & h us in mind of the Hippodrom, or Running-place for Horfes. The Athe-

A v''f d>r"" nlm$ fa^d fuch kind of Exercifes in this place ; the Infcriptions are alt

tummy iy w- very much injured by Time.

veph&th*. WE next vifited the Portico of Philip King of Mace don (25), within
lib. 3>WC) ' about fifty paces of the Temple-Ruins ; this Portico confifts of Columns
and Architraves truly magnificent, and becoming the Grandeur of a mighty
Prince : we obferv'd two forts of Marble Pillars ■ the pieces of the big-
ger kind are twelve or thirteen foot long, half fluted and half pannell'd,.
five inches five lines broad, and are in the fame pofition with thole of the-
Frontifpiece of the Temple, but they are no more than two foot diame-
ter from one Plat-band to another ; the Plat-bands are feven inches two*
lines broad; the Flutings of the fides are two inches and a half broad::
the largeft Diameter of thefe Columns, is two foot four inches.

AMONG the Architraves there are three lying pretty near each
other, with Philip of Macedorfs Infcription : each Architrave is ten foot"
in length, two foot and a half in thicknefs, one foot eight inches deep-
On one of thefe pieces is graved in Characters feven inches in height,

* 1 a 1 n n.

b a 2 1 a e n 2, on the other . -

makeaonon, on the third.

THESE Architraves have efcaped breaking and carrying away, be-
ing enchas'd into the top of the Columns with two huge holes fquare

and

Defer ipt Ion of the IJlands of Delos. 235

and deep: thefc Columns had been very carefully chofen, and mark'd in Lett. VII.
the Quarry with an oand a $ on their diameters; fignifying, as I fuppofe,
c p«<n\tu?, the King.

FROM this Portico, about 500 paces on the left, you lee (26) on
the Hope of a little Hill, the Remains of a beautiful Marble Theatre:
the (pace between thefe two Buildings is full of nothing but Ruins of
Houfes built either with Brick ^or Stone of the Country. In all appea-
rance, this part of the Town was the befl peopled, on account of the
Temple. Thefe Heaps of Rubbiih contain fome Pillars of Granate ; and
clofe by the Theatre there are fome of Marble fluted, which doubtleis be-
long to fome Temple.

THE Opening of the Theatre faces the South-Weft ; it was all of

Marble cut different ways : there are few fquare pieces, moll: of 'em are

flanting and with various Angles, as if they had a mind to husband 'em,

by not diminiihing'emmore than needs muft, and fb would not cut 'em

fquare ; fome are cut diamond-falhion. The Diameter of the Theatre,

including the Steps, is 250 foot, and 500 in compafs: the left Angle of

this Edifice was fupported by a fort of Tower (27) about nineteen foot

: thick and thirty long. The Hill in this place falls off, whereas on the

i right it helps to fupport the Theatre. Ten or twelve paces from the

! Wall there was a large Edifice (28), among whofe Ruins there is ftill a

Cellar or Receptacle for Rain-water, with a Mofaick Pavement about the

■, edges.

FORTY paces from the Opening of the Theatre (29) even with the
ground, there's a fquare Spot a hundred paces long, twenty three foot
wide, and of a confiderable depth, parting in nine feparate Lodges.
M. Spon fufpe&s 'em to have been Receptacles for Water, becaule of a
Canal which feems to have ierv'd as a Feeder to one of thefe Lodges : but
it is more likely their ufe was to keep Lions and other Beafts for the pub-
lick Spectacles; the Canal fupplying 'em with Water to drink. Thefe
Lodges were. not arch'd over, but cover'd with huge pieces of Granate
cut like Beams, with proper Openings to enlighten the place, and let the
Beads pafs to and fro. From thefe Lodges to the Sea, they reckon 345
paces ; fo that the Theatre could not be above 380 paces from the Sea.

4. Hh2 FROM

2 %6

A Voyage into the Levant.

FROM the Theatre we went to an anticnt Gate (3 3) of the City, on
the Declivity of Mount Cynthw (32). In the way you fee three Columns
of Granate (30) on the fame line, befides a great many others tumbled
down : near the foot of the Mountain there are Remains of a Temple
(31), as may be fuppos'd from the nine Pillars of Marble difpos'd in a
round, three (landing upright, and fix fallen to the ground : rumaging the
Rabbit-holes, they lately difcover'd under thefe Columns molt beautiful
Cellars. The Pavement of the Temple was Mofaick.
•o&i'» KuV- MOUNT Cynthw (32), whence Apollo was calPd Cynthian, is an ugly
SiJ Hill, crofting almofl the whole Ifland obliquely : this Mountain properly
te. plin. Hift. fDeakjna, is nothine but a Block of Granate of the ordinary fort, com-

tfat. In/. 4. r o ° * '

(a}. 12. jnon in Europe; that is to fay, a fort of greyilh Marble, naturally made
up of little bits of blackifh Tak, glittering like Glafs : I have fome
pieces with bits of Talc as thick as one's Thumb. There's fcarce an;
Ifland in the Archipelago, but what abounds with this Granate, and the
Granitus ex Ro?nans ufed to fetch great quantities of it from the Ifland Elba on the
-•Etiwha. Q0:xft of Tufcany. M. Felibien fays, the Pillars of the Pantheon were made, jj c
Diar. itai. thereof ; but Father Montfaucon, who made fuch fine Obfervations irm*
Italy, gives us to underfland, that of the fixteen Pillars of the Portico '
of that Church, part is of Egyptian Granate, taken, Suetoniw fays, out M
of the Quarries of Thebais ; and that Granate is incomparably beyond
the European : I have feen Pillars of it at Confiantinople, of a yellow- ■!
dun, with here and there a fpot of the colour of Steel. The Emperor
Helio«abalw, as Lampridiw informs us, defign'd to have his Statue placed «
on a Column of Granate, to have been carv'd like that of Trajan, but
they could not find a piece long enough in the Quarries of Vpper Egypt.

I N Lower Normandy there are Quarries of ordinary Granate on the
fide of Granville ; and I have been told by M. Simon of the Royal Aca-
demy of Sciences, who let me have fome pieces in 1 704, that it was
daily ufed in that Country for Door-cafes and Chimney-pieces. Thefe
Quarries muft reach a great way, fmce M. Gaudron of St. iSlalo lent me
feveral Sea-plants naturally flicking to pieces of Granate. Father Trachet
being emplay'd by the King to render the Dordogne navigable, dilco-
■yer'd the fined Granate in the world among the Sources of that River.

THE

v!

Defer iption of the Iflands of Delos. 237

.THE Columns, which vulgarly pafs for melted Stone, are of this Lett. VII.
common Granate : thofe of St. Saviour at Aix in Provence, at Orange in
the Market, at Lyons in the Abbey of At nay, are of the fame fort of mat-
ter ; and we may aflure our felves, that all Stones, of whatever kind,
calcine in the Fire inftead of melting.

THE Inhabitants of the Iflands about Delos call Mount Cyntfms by TWy»«7*dl
the name of Cajlro ; and tho it is hardly fb high as Mount Valerian near "oyt utyh 5
Paris, Strabo makes it a very confiderable Mountain. From the Ruins of xj! Rel^Jeff.
the Town at an old Gate, you go up a pair of Stairs cut in that Rock : L,b' I0'
this Gate (33) is a fort of Corps-de-garde, which has very much the air
of the primitive Times ; it is not above fix paces long, five broad : the
top, which a Man on tip-toe can hardly touch with his hand, is cover'd
with pieces of Granate, flat like Planks, but very thick, nine foot long,
pofited in a fharp-rifing manner. From this Corps-de-garde you go up
to the top of a little Hill by means of a Marble Stair-cafe, mod of
whofe Steps have been taken away, and carry'd to Mycone to make Win-
dow-cafes of. On the top of the Mountain runs a finall Efplanade, Ax#?nfe«i
where are ftill to be feen the Remains of a Citadel that commanded the
whole Ifland ; the Foundations thereof are very thick, rectangular : this
contain'd fome {lately Edifice, Temple, or Portico ; you fee likevvife
Mofaick Pavements, Columns, and very fine Marble Monuments.

THE Town reach'd no farther than the top of Mount Cyntbm, ex-
tending to Port Fottrni (3$); and in its compafs was the Theatre, as is
demonltrable from an Infcription now in St. JS'Iarlfs Library at Venice :
Father Montfaucon has tranferibed it with more Care and Correctnefs thanDiar,I,a1, c- ^
Gruteras did. It tells, that among the Regulations introdue'd under Pa3- 405.
Ariftechmus, in favour of the Athenian Inhabitants of Delos, they fhould
be honour'd with a Crown of Gold when they folemniz'd Minerva's Fefti- **»«&"»£
val, and that Proclamation thereof iliould be made on the Theatre fituate Minw -\-a\h
in the City.

TO TE nPftTON nANA0HNAIOl2 E n O I H 2 E N TON AH-
MON TON A0HNAIAN T ft N EN AHAfi TIMH0HNAI XlT-
2P-I ZTEfANjlI ANAT.O PET MENftl EN TiiJ EN A2TEI 0EA-
TPfll, &c,

THIS

o

r>8 A Voyage into the Levant.

THIS Town ran on from Port Foumi beyond the little Port (14)
as far as the Calanque of Scares* (i j-), taking in Philip of Macedon'i
Portico (25), the Temple of Apollo (22), the Portico of Dionyfius Euty-
ches (20), the oval Baton (17), and the Gymnafium (15). The Sea
ferv'd as a Rampart to that Quarter of the Town, and all the fine Edi-
fices flood to open view. From Scardana it ipread to the neighbouring
Hill (10), and join'd New Athens ; afterwards it crofs'd the Ifland as far
as the Coafl oppofite to Mycone, and concluded at the Iflhmus of the
Tongue of Land («) at the North-Eafl : it did not flretch far Eaflward,
becauie of a very rugged Rock thereabouts ; and it is fbmewhat ftrange,
that the Greeks, who were of an enterprizing Spirit, did not level thefe
Inequalities. The Town, in fliort, took up the only Plain that was in

Her. Geog. the Ifland : and this is the Situation Strabo gives it,

AT the foot of Mount Cyntlms we were lhewn a fmall Lodge, where

Afiutajr. lived feme years ago an Afcetick, as the Greeks call 'em : his Name waSi:
Maximus, he was a Caloyer of Monte Santo, and he return'd thither to
confine himfelf in a difmal Solitude, far from any new Object to diflurb
his Repofe ; for the Myconiots, who go daily to Delos to cut Wood, to
fifli, or to hunt, gave him too frequent Diftraclions. He dwelt fome time
at Stapodia, a bafe Rock beyond Myeone ; but he was faiti to quit it, on
account of the Scarcity of Water to drink. This humble zealous Re-
clufe was going to Salonica, to preach publickly againfl the Mahometan
Religion, and thereby merit Martyrdom ; but his Ghoflly "Father dif
fuaded him from it, reprefenting to him that the Turks would doubtlefs
wreak their Rage upon the other Caloyers, that were lefs in love with
being impaled than he was.

HIS Lodge or Hermitage at Delos was not far from the Ciflern (54),
which was fo refrelhing to Meffieurs Spon and Wheeler, placed on the Sum-
mit of the Mountain, over againfl the great Rematiari : this Ciflern, or
Receptacle of Water, feems to have belong'd to fbme confiderable Houfc :
the Arch-work of it is admirable.

AFTER wc had fctch'd a compafs round Mount Cynthus, we fet for-
ward on the Road to Port Foumi (j$), and left towards the South fome

A«M4f h> >&• other lefTer Hills, diverfify'd with thofe Valleys which Euripides calls fer-
iphij-T ci^e : at Pre^eut tney are far from being fb, accordingly the People leave

'cm

Defcription of the IJlands of Delos. 239

Jem unmanured, whereas thofe of the Ifle Rhenia are duly cultivated. Lctt.VIL
On our way to the Port we difcovcr'd fome Marble Pillars (36), which "-"^ v ^~*
look'd as if they bclong'd to a Temple : we faw fome of Granate Stone
ready form'd, but never ufed; as alio huge unwieldy Blocks of the fame
Stone, which were doubtlefs intended for confiderable Works : the Gra- .
nate therefore was drawn not only from Mount Cynthus, but likewife
from the neighbouring Hills, between the Weft and the South.

PORT Fourni, the Entrance whereof is between the South and
South- Welt, looks to the South Point of the great Rematiari ; but it is fit
for nothing but fmall VefTels. Along the Coaft, you fee, in the very Wa-
ter, Remnants of antient Foundations ; lb that Port Fourni, likewife call'd
the great Port, was at one of the Extremities of the Town : there are
ibove ilxty Pillars of Granate (37) on this Coaft, rnoft of 'em ftill (land-
ing ; the Remnants, belike, of fome Warehoufes for Merchandize : the
Antients not being wont to ufeWood in their Buildings, thefe Pillars of
1 Stone ferv'd inftead of wooden Ports, and the Architrave over 'em form'd
! :he Door-cafe of their Shops. On the right (3 8) a little higher than thefe
hilars, you lee fome Columns of Granate pofitcd in the lame line, as if
hey had been the Ruins of fome Portico.

THE little Port (14) was likewife fet round with Buildings. Where- A7/M»ra*Mjj
:ver they dig. they find Mofaick Pavements, compos'd of fmall Cubes of
slack and white Marble, fix'd in a Lay of Mortar a foot thick. The
*Jorth Wind does not in the leaft affecl: the Saicks in this Port; for it has
' iwo Elbows, one to the right, the other to the left : that on the right,
owards the Point of the little Rematiari, has a Quickfand or Shelf made
>y the drift of Sand and Gravel.

IN the Beginning of the Year 1701, there was nothing to be feen all
bout Mount Cynthus but fmall Gutters of Water ; the biggeft of 'em ran
rom the South-Eaft to the South, and form'd a kind of Lake, which di£
harging it felf at the foot of the Mountain, difappear'd amidft the Ruins
f the Marble Temple (3 1). Toward the end of January all thefe Gutt-
ers were dry, and nothing but a Meer (or Pool of ftanding Water) re-
lain'd : fo that it is not probable that the River Inopas, which Strabo
■laces in this Ifland, was in any part hereabouts. Pliny more juftly calls
y this name the Fountain (3) which is below the Head-land (1) where

we;

240 A Voyage into the Levant.

we landed. We made fuch diligent Perquifition in this Ifland the four
Voyages we made thither, that we may affirm there's no running Water
there.

AS for the Stone employ'd in all thefe large Edifices in Delos, we ob-
ferv'd none but white Marble, Granate, reddilh Shards, and Bricks : we
law but one Quarry of red and white Jafper, like that of Langueioc.
The greatefl part of the white Marble is thought to come from Faros and
Tenos, where are ipacious Quarries towards the Coafl that faces the Ifle
oiAndros ; that of Naxos is likewife full of white Marble : as for Gra.
nate, Delos and Mycone are not without it.

'TWERE needlefs here to recite the different Names which were for-
/.*?•'*• merly given to the Ifle of Delos ; that of Lagia, for inflance, does not

at all befit it : there being no Hares now in this Ifland, but great ftore of
Rabbits magnificently lodg'd in Marble ; generally thefe two forts of.
Creatures deftroy each other, and cannot live together. The abundance,
of Quails occafion'd the two Delos 's to be named Ortygia • but this Name,
would more properly be given to all the Iflands of the Archipelago, fmce
in certain Seafons of the Year all parts of 'em are cover'd with thofe
ir.vev. U29- Birds. The Scholiaft of Apohnias pretends that Delos was named Ortyrint
u.i«t!' s from a Sifter of L&tona, and that Delos was the firfl Name of the Ifland :
in all probability this Name was given it by the Inhabitants of the neigh-
bouring Iflands, at the time of the Inundation caus'd by the overflowing
of the Euxine into the Archipelago. This Ifland, which had been over-
whelm'd with the Waters, appear'd again, and once more manifefied it
felf, as its Name imports.

THERE are at prefent no Partridges in Delos, but a world of Wood-
cocks : we law fome Vipers and Land-Crocodiles, or beautiful Lizzards,
nine or ten inches long, exactly refembling the common Crocodiles;
their Skin, which is greyilh, is befet with fmall pointed Rifings in fome
places, and as it were fcaly : they are a harmleis Creature, and the Chil-
dren brought us a great many, which they had taken at Mycone in the
holes of the Walls. Field-Mice are alfo frequent in Delos, where they
live on nothing but young Rabbits : the belt parts of the Ifland being co-
ver'd with the Ruins and Rubbiili of Marble, are by no means fit for Cul-
c of any fort.

ALL

ftI4uL~L£.

L/zstrd catt 'd Ko££o £ ^A o s .

Jo

Defer iption of the //lands of Delos. 241

r AL L theMafons of the adjoining Iflands relbrt hither as to a Quarry, Lett. VII.
to make choice of fuch pieces they beft like : they will break to pieces a ^^^^^
fine Column, to make Steps to a Stair-cafe, Jambs for Windows or Doors •
they will carry away a Pedeflal to turn into a Mortar or the like. Both
Turks, Greeks, and Latins, come and make what havock they pleale ;
and what is very odd, the People of Mycone pay but ten Crowns Land-
Tax to the Grand Signior, for pofTefling an Ifland which was the Repo-
fitory of the publick Treafure of Greece, the then richeft Country of
Europe.

T H E Situation of Mount Cynthut tempted us to make a Geographi-
cal Station on it.

The Citadel of Twos ftands to the North-North- Well.

Mycone North-Eaft, and Cape Alogomandra Eaft-North-Eaft.

Prafonifi between the Eaft and Eaft-South-JEaft.

Stapodia Eaft.

The great Delos Weft.

Syra Weft.

:Joura Weft-North-Weft.

Siphanto South-Weft.

Serpho between the South- Weft and Weft-South-Weft.

Serpho-PouU Weft-South- Weft.

Antiparos South-South-Weft.

Paros between the South and South-South- Weft. 1

Sikino between the South-Eaft and Eaft-South-Eaft.

NaxU between the South-South-Eaft and South-Eaft.

Amorgos between the South-Eaft and Eaft-South-Eaft.

FROM the lefier Delos we went over to the greater the 25 th of OBo- tf Staaia;
her 1700, by the Canal which feparates thefe two Iflands, and which is £"£ Ei£' I0>
not above five hundred paces broad, according as Strdo has determined phnath.
it. This Author, Herodotus, and Stephens the Geographer, call the PHN^ V'K'
greater Delos by the name of Rhenia : it is eighteen .miles about, and is m^ p"*
as it were divided into two parts. * Rhene, Arte-

POLTCRATES Tyrant of Samos, Cotemporary with Cambyfes, midc 3J£2jJS2J
himfelf mafter of this Ifland \ and as a tokenof his confecrating it to Deliw lib-12- cnf-u

nr 1 t t • a tr Thucvd. lib.t-

VOl. J. I 1 ApOliO, & lib. 3.

242 A Voyage into the Levant.

Apollo, he faften'd a Chain to it from the Ifle of Delos. DatU, GeneraF
Herod. Hb. 6. 0f the Rev [tans, declining, out of refpeCt, to land at Delos, went aihore
at Rhenia ; where being inform'd that the Inhabitants of Delos were fled
to Tinos, to avoid the Fury of his Troops, he difpell'd their Fears, by
protecting to them, that according to his Prince's Commands and his own
Intentions, he would never permit any ill Treatment of a Country fo re-
verable for the Birth of Apollo and Diana t and he confirm'd his good In-
tentions by a Prefent of three hundred Pound of Frankincenfe to burn on
their Altars.

THE greater Delos is no longer inhabited ; its Mountains are none of
the higheft, abounding with excellent Paflurage ; its Soil is proper for
Corn and Wine. The Inhabitants of Mycone, who are diligent in the Cul-
ture of it, breed there Horfes, Beeves, Sheep, and Goats : but in regard
they are often vifited by the Corfairs, who come thither for Quarters of
Refrefhmenr, the Myconiots traufport their Flocks back into their owai
Ifknd. They pay the Grand Signior but twenty Crowns to the Land
Tax for the greater Delos.

OVER againft the great Rematiari, at the foot of a little Hill (i),

where the Corfairs place their Centry, are the Ruins of a large Town

Foot of a Ga- whichrun along the Sea-fide to the Point of GUropoda : this Name feems

Ihagot, in t0 be of great antiquity ; for we read in I CaUimachus, that Delos had plenty

SJf&^BM of thefe forc of Birds call'd Cormorants or Gabians.

M<ft*aGabian THE large Pillars of am-colourM Marble, and fbme pieces of fluted:

■i vi Provence *

it is {caru any Columns fcatter'd on the top of this Hill, declare there had been fbme
\heht tbt.h" ftately Temple : we immediately fix'd our eyes on the moft remarkable
^fal'arJk - Column ; tho broke, it is 14 foot long, and 2 diameter : nothing is to be
c'ock inking, feen all round but Bales of Marble ; there remains indeed but one fingle
•'AiSuinf *} Corinthian Chapiter. The Town faced that of Delos, and began below
foiiof >**}? tne Temple, as may be judg'd from the Ruins : part of this Town was
Hy^n'.inDe- defign'd for the Burying-place of the Delians ; and in that Purification o
lum, verf. 12. jyeios which wasmade under the Archon Euthydemus, all the Urns of th»
Dead were carry'd thither : we fhall enlarge on this Purification by and by.
GOING down to the great Rematiari, you fee nothing but Marbl<
Tomb-ftones, among heaps of broken Columns : there is a noble one
tho without Infcription, ending like a Dome, flat at top, adorn'd with

Foliage

/■•/.J.

Jii^.Z-f-2.

•-5

1

///i ////r////t 2c?n/v/{'//i jfi// to /<" ^<<vf /// yareater

Ue/vrf .

&v'&tar cf BdccAus in. /As ///?/<- Dc/oj

Defcription of the Tjlahds of Delos. 243

Foliage. The Coverture of moft of the reft is like a Cradle, a lit- Lett. VII.

tie doping on each fide, and on which are cut in Relievo Plates 0f yA?^v/^J

Marble faften'd by fmall Ribs : the Ridge of theie Covertures bears

a fort of a fmall Trough as in the Figure. We at firft fancy'd the ufe

of it was to preferve Water for the Birds to drink ; but there's no need

of luch a Precaution in a Country where it but feldom rains: it is more

likely this Trough was to receive the Libations; for Athen&ns obferves,DeiPn-lib."-!

that Libations were made on the Tomb-ftones. The following Epitaph

is on one of thefe Tomb-ftones ; by the Stile it is exceeding antient.

IlAfiTIA ATAOT
TTNHXPHSTH X A I P E.

T O our great (urprize, we counted above fixfcore Altars on our way

.to Glarof/oda, amidft the Ruins of Houfes which to this very day look

.ftately : they were not the Hofpitals nor Country-Houfes of the Delians,

as we at firft believ'd. By the vaft multitude of Marble Fragments, the

Town mult have been very populous, and accordingly it is call'd a Me- phnmn

r , , MHTPOnO-

tropolis on the Reverie of a Medal of Alexander Severn ; this Reverie aic. Gokz.
reprefents a Pallas with a Buckler in her Right Hand, and a Spear in her
Left. There is in the King's Cabinet a Medal of this Ifland, with the
Head of Maximus ; on the Reverfe is a Goddefs clad in a plain Tunick, PHNinN-
ihe bears Victory in her Right Hand, and a Spear revers'd in her Left.
'Tisftrange that Strabo, otherwife very exact, and who has not omitted fP«f«* ijSfss
the Tombs of the Ifland of Rhenia, mould call it a little defart Ifland. iZ, &!L Rer.
A S for its Magnitude, it is three times bigger than Delos, nor was it Ge°2' ' l0"
much inferior in Magnificence, if we may guefs by its Monuments of
Antiquity : moft of the Altars are cylindrical, adorn'd with Feftoons
With Heads of Oxen or Rams ; theie Altars are moft commonly three
foot and a half high, and three foot fave two inches diameter : that which
I have caus'd to be grav'd, was perhaps dedicated to Bacchus, as is proba-
ble from the Bunch of Grapes hanging below the Feftoons. There are
no Statues left among theie old Marble Monuments ; they were too near
the Sea, and confequently too liable to be ihip'd ofT To conclude, it is
not likely this Town was built after Strabo's death ; for, according to

I i 2 him.

244 « Voyage info the Levant.

him, the little Delos rather run to decay, than grew more flouriflihig,
after Aaguftus's Reign ; and the Ifland Rhenia had nothing to fupport it
ielf, but the Commerce of this little Ifland.

THE Point of Glaropoda, where the Town concluded, was bounded'
by fome magnificent Edifice, built in a round figure, and adorn'd with !
„ Columns and Architraves of Marble. Port Colonne, fituate on another;

Point over againft Glaropoda, ihews likewife that it was border'd with I
magnificent Buildings, which they are every day demolifhing, fbr lbme
vile ule or other. We obferv'd there a Crofs of Jerufalem-, and we were
told that the Stones were carry'd away to Mycone, where were feveral of I
theie CrofTes well carv'd.
THESE CrofTes left us no room to doubt that this was a Fort oi
Tf.it) (uiM& the Knights of St. John. Cantacuzenus reports, that the Emperor or-i
S^*!**. ^& the Building of a Fortrefs in the Ifle of Scio, to cover it from;
Hift. Lb. 4. t^e iufuits of their Neighbours, and efpecially the Hofpitlers of Delos- :'
Deium tunc on which Rontanus obferves, that at that time the Knighrs of Rhodes were
nus'Teiigiofb- in poiTeffion of Delos, invited thither, doubtJefs, by the Conveniency of;
^Pomificf its Harbours. The Mahometans began to infeft all the Archipelago, and the
ahUdii'&Me- KniSnts found Delos t0 De of great ufe to 'em againft thofe Pirates : the
iitenfes appei- Knights favour'd the Defigns of the Genoefe, and fupply'd Domimck Cau~
t7n.ZXcap,Ti.»ea with five Galliesto go and teize Lesbos, as will be fhewn hereafter.
'£££' BEYOND Glaropoda, the Ifland is hoUow'd like a Half-moon, at the
farther end whereof is a narrow piece of Land which joins the two parts
and is not above fifty paces broad ; in time the Waves may chance tol
carry it away, and then the great Delos will be divided into two Iflands.
iWSkinc*. The beft Port of Rhenia is call'd the Maftick-Port, from the abundance
of Maftick-Trees that grow about ir.

1 am, dec,

LET-

/.->/./.

J'a.J ■ 1.4- f ■

tel.X.

flJ3a/j-c> Jb//sifo af^ //ar/-/f. /i'///Wi /rrnnt/w /// // J/7s ofJpra .

■jJ^Sas-reut

u*f * w'^L

K4.1- &93*L

t?f^ /k/r/i/w/ts i/i tfu IsLi/id ofJh//io<r.

C 245 >

t»*&

LETTER Vim

3Tb Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c

My Lord,

E are now got into ' Syra, the moft Catholick Ifland of all oefiriftua »/
the ' Archipelago. To (even or eight Families of the Greek svwj 'tw
Communion, there are above 6000 Souls of the Latin ; and mia'r'3TT ^

7 cionilij joiTra,

when thefe intermarry with the Greeks, the Children are all Andi°s> «»<*
Roman-Catholicks : whereasat Naxos the Boys follow their Father's Way . 2Tp0v
of Worlhip, and the Girls that of the Mother. Thefe Bleflings axe Strab-
©wing to the French Capuchins, who are mightily belov'd in this Ifland, Nwb/w 2*-
and are very intent upon inftru&ing a People naturally inclined to Good, ^ *?omer-
avow'd Enemies to Fraud, full of worthy Sentiments* and fo-laborious^.-
there's no fleeping in this Ifland; not in the night-time, becaufe of theSvR,0S,SYRAa
univerfal Din made by the Hand-mills each Man works at to grind his
Corn ; nor in- the day-time, becaufe of the Rumbling made by the
Wheels for fpinning of Cotton.

THE Houfe and Church of the Capuchins are prettily built,- we were
rejoic'dto lee the Banner, of France difplay'd at the corner of their Ter-
rafs: Father Jacinthe of Amiens, a fenfible Man, and the Conful o£Ti-
tjw's Subftitute, entertain'd us in the moft obliging manner.. Thefe Fa-
thers direct the Confciences of twenty five Nuns of. the third Order of
St. Francis, who lead an exemplary Life, tho not cloifter'd. The Greeks
have but two Churches in Syr a, ferv'd by a Papas. There's but one
Turk, viz. the Cadi; and he too is fain to take flicker among the Capu-
chins,

■i 4.6 A Voyage into the Levant.

chins, when there appears any Corfair about the Ifland. They chufe
two Adminiftrators every year: in 1700, the Capitation and Land-Tax
amounted to 4000 Crowns.

W E landed there the 26th of OEtober. Syra is about thirty miles from

Mycone, reckoning from one Cape to the other ; but it is forty from the

Port of Mycone to that of Syra : this Port will receive the biggeft Ships,

'Syu>5<iujm its Entrance is to the Eaft. I The Ifland, which is but 25 miles about,

vig?ntiUmiiHae wants for no manuring, and produces excellent Wheat, tho but a fmall

STSs, quantity, abundance of Barley, plenty of Wine and Figs, as alfo Cotton

Mmianuscen- ancj Olives, which the Inhabitants pickle for ufe. Tho Syra is verv

tuin fexaginta. ' *• J J

pim. lib, 4. mountainous, it is deftitute of Wood, and all their Fewel is Shrubs ; the
.tap. u, ^ir -s jaumicjj an(j cqI^j. rnan 1q moft of the other Iflands of the Arcbi-
ZuGolot, 'iv- pelago : Homer has given an advantageous Deicription of it.
«-a»3»V,*W- THE Burrough is a mile from the Port, incircling a finall but deep
Sdfffi T' Hill, on the point whereof are fituated the Biihop's Houfe and the Epif-
yerf. 405. COpai Church dedicated to St. George : that Prelate's Income is but 400
Crowns a year, but for his Confolation he has the bed Body of Clergy
in all the Levant, confiding of forty Priefts.-

O N the Port are feen the Ruins of an antient and large City, call'd

Ctpoc. in former times Syros, as well as the Ifland ; as appears by an Infcription

brought from the Sea-fide to the Burgh, and fix'd into a corner of the

Church : therefore 'tis a miftake to think that Syra comes from a vulgar

*k^' *;&;• Qreek ' Word, fignifying a Miftrefs or Lady.

a^'itki*. O N the left hand of the Bifliop's Door on a Baft-Relief is repreiented
a Siftrum of the Antients, or an Inftrument ufed in Battel inftead of a
Trumpet, as likewife lome other Inflruments ; it was taken out of the
fame Ruins, among which is flill to be feen a fair flat Front of a Wall,
built of huge Scantlings of baftard Marble, cut facet-wife. There have
been likewife hewn thence feveral pieces of white Marble, and elpecially
of Columns, which ftand before the Capuchins Church.

THE chief Spring of the Ifland is very antient, and runs pretty
near the Town : the People have I know not what Tradition, that in
antient times the cuftom was for every body to go and purify themfelves
in it, before they came to Delos. There is, it feems, an Infcription at
this Spring, but they told us of it too late to go fee it.

THE

AV. Z.

r.i,> z-ir?

-^•J^w//^' SYRA .

ik

Defer ipt ion of the I/land of Syra. 247

THE Iflands round Syra cannot be the Anticyrx fo renown'd for the Lett. VIII.
Herb Hellebore : thefe are in the Gulph of Zjiton beyond the Negropont, V^"V"N^
over againft Mount Oeta, where Hercules is faid to have breath' d his laflr.
Inftead of Hellebore, we found in Syra. near the Haven a Plant which
pleas'd us exceedingly ; it is that which produces the Manna of Perfia.
Rauvolphus a Phyfician of Ausbourg, who difcover'd it in his Voyage to-
the Levant in 1537, lpeaks of it under the name of Albagi Maurorum',
but he is fb very luccincl, as the manner was then, that I thought it not
amifs to examine it fully on the fpot, left we fhould not meet with it
again in our Voyage. It feem'd fomewhat odd for a Plant, which is one
of the Beauties of the Plains of Armenia, Georgia, and Per fa, to be as
it were confined to the Iflands of Syra and Tims. M. Wheeler (aw \i in
Tims, and took it for a Plant undefcribed. I have made a particular Ge- coroi.jnji.iLi}
nus of it, under the name of Alhagi. Herb' 54' '

ITS Roots are woody, four or five lines thick, brown, not very AmAc-iMa* ;-
hairy ; its Stalks are near three foot high, about two lines thick, pale Voif. 94. Ge-.
green, {leek, hard, branchy below, attended with Leaves like thofe of "'fnaJ^':il™
Rupturewort : the biggeft are feven or eight lines long, three broad, pale liis Poiygom.
green, and fleek, faften'd to a very fliort Pedicule, rounded at the other Genifta fpin«^
end where they are terminated by a very delicate point j which is nothing b^ wild]
elle than the Extremity of the Stalk croiTing the Leaves without forming Polygonum
any fenfible Nervation : by the Leaves is a hard firm Prickle, from five J^f1'^.
lines to an inch long, ftreak'd and reddiih at the end. The Prickles of
the Branches are lefs, and grow out of the Bafes of the Leaves ; thofe
where the Branches and Stalks end, are an inch and a half long, finer
than the others, and with two or three leguminous Flowers on each3
about half an inch long, purple-colour'd in the middle, reddifh about the
lims, and rounded. The Under-leaf, which is obtufe and purple-colour'd; -
ferves as a white Wrapper to a white Sheath, fring'd, yellow-topt, and
covers a Peftle four lines long, ending in a Thred... The. Cup is a line
and a half long, pale green, fleek, moderately fluted. The Flower being
gone, the Peftle turns to a Cod about an inch in length, bending like &
Sickle, articulated, reddiih, two lines thick where the Seeds are inclos'd 3
for the Articulations are very narrow and eafily broken, Thefe Seeds are
brown, a. line long, fomewhat more than a line broad ; the Structure of

(ft:

248 A VotAge into the Levant.

the Cod or Pod is what diftinguifhes this Plant from the Species of Broom
and GemJiaSfartium.

I K NO W not whether the Alhagi yields Manna in the Ifles of Syr*
and Tinos ; but this I know, the People of the Country are ignorant that
this Plant furnifhes a Drug that purges full as well : it is chiefly about
Taurti, a Town in Perjia, that iris gather'd, under the name of Trungibin
©r Terenjabin, reported in AvicmnorzxA in Serapion ; thofe Authors thought
it fell upon certain prickly Shrubs, whereas it is- only the nutritious Juice
of the Plant we have been defcribing.

DURING the great Heats, you perceive fmall Drops of Honey fhed
on the Leaves and Branches of thefe Shrubs ; thefe Drops harden into
Grains about the oignefs of Coriander-Seed. They gather thofe of the
Alhagi, and make 'em into reddifh Cakes, full of Duft and Leaves, which
alter the Colour, and leflen their Virtue. This Manna is very inferior to
the It dim 1 two forts are fold in Perjia ; the befl is in little Grains, the
other is like a Pafte, and contains more Leaves than Manna. The ordi-
nary Dofe of both is from 25 to 50 Drams, as they term it in the Levant,
where they difTolve it in an Infufion of Sena.
Strab.Rer. PHERECTDES, one of the antienteft Philofophcrs of Greece,

m>« Laert Mailer of Pythagoras, and the Difciple of PitUcus, was born m Sjra,
in pherec. where they kept his Solar Quadrant as a Monument of his Capacity :
Iherec? V°Ce many afcribe the Invention to him ; others are of opinion he learnt it of
Cic. Quift. -the Phenicians, whofe Books he was well acquainted (with. But Cicero
cap.C'i56.' commends that great Man on a far more remarkable account, namely,
2»<>-m/ $ $ /for being the firft that taught the Immortality of the Soul; tho he is
w zj& if chargrd' by Suidas with publifhing the Tranfmigration of the Soul from

Vhq. Diog. one Body int() another#

BEFORE we left Syr a, we fail'd not to make our Geographical
Obfervations :

Andros is to the North of this Ifland.

'Jour a to the North- Eaft.

Zi* to the Weft-North-Weft.

Thermia between the Weft and Weft-North- Weft

■Mycone to the Eaft.

■;twos'tQ the North-Eaft.

The

*&**»

AV.S,

Ta.-^/J'

Defer iption of the IJland of Thermia. 24.9

The Great Debs between the Eaft and the Eaft-South-Eaft. Lett. VIII.

The Mountain of Zja, of Naxos between the South-Eaft and the ^-^V^v»*
Eaft-South-Eaft.

FROM Syra we directed our courfe to Thermia, another Ifland, 25 Thermia.
miles from Syra from Cape to Cape, but above 40 from one Port to the
other : for if you would go into the Canal of Thermit, you mult fetch a
compafs of almoft one half of Syr a. For the fame realbn they reckon
but 12 miles from Thermia, to ZJa, tho 'tis $6 from one Port to the
other. The N'earnefs of Thermia to ZJa, fuffers us not to doubt that
Thamia is the Ifland of Cythnos, fince Dtc&archns places it between Ceos De statu Grace
and Ser'tpbus ; it produced an eminent Painter, whom Euflathius calls Cv_ Comment- ad

r ' r ' J J Dionyf.Pciieg.

di:t.<. The Cheefes of Cythnos were much efteem'd by the Antients, ac-
cording; to the Report of Stephens the Geographer and Julius Pollux : it k*} _ kJ^-w
was likewife here that a Tempeft drove the counterfeit Nero, a Slave, a Zk\ \uyeJ-
great Lutenilt, together with his Followers, Birds of the fame Feather, pof- StePh"
as Tacitus tells us. Hift. lib. 2.

5 ft

W E arrived at Thermia the Night between the 30th and 3 ift of Otto- c p" '
her, and were forced to lie in a Chappel, where we were like to have our
Throats cut. Some Turks of Negropont, who were in a large Caick near
ours, feeing our Sailors ftripping off the Skins of a couple of Sheep we
had bought at Syra, went and rais'd the Town upon us, as if we were
Banditti, come to plunder the Port. Upon this, the Country People took
to their Arms: but as good-fortune would have it, the Conful of France
M. Janachi, whom they rais'd out of bed to go along with 'em, in-
quiring what fort of figure thefe pretended Banditti made, and being
told that four of 'em wore Hats, rightly concluded they could not be
Banditti, who feldom have fo much as a Thrum-Cap to their pates. He
■herefore pray'd the Townfmen of Thermia to go home again, affuring
:hem that they were Merchants, Frenchmen belike, come to buy Corn
ind Silk : for all that, they made him difpatch away two of his Do-
nefticks, to go and get intelligence of us. We were furpriz'd about Three
11 the Morning, to fee entring the Chappel two Perfons, who with their
Carbines cock'd demanded who we were, and all that : when we had
atisfy'd them, they told us, that had it not been for the prudent Remon-
Vol. I. K k ftrances

250 ^Voyage into the Levant.

ftrances of the C©nful of France, we had gone to pot, every Mother's
Son of us. Being recover'd from our Fright, we waited on the Conful
to thank him : there we had the mortification to fee, among our Accu-
fers, a Turk whom we knew Waivod at Serpho, and who was more alarm'd
than any other, becaufe he had pack'd up and was carrying off his ill-
gotten Treaiure ; he begg'd us a thoufand pardons, and recommended
us earneftly to the Conful's Favour and Protection.

THE Ifland of Thermia, unlike moft of the Iflands of the ArchU
pelago, is not fteep ; its Soil is good and well-improv'd, it affords little-
Wheat, but a great deal of Barley, and a fufficiency of Wine and Figs
fcarce any Oil at all. The Silk of this Ifland is faid to be as good as
that of Twos : this of Thermit ufually fells for a Crown a Pound, iome-
times a hundred Sous, nay two hundred, which brings confiderable Profit
to the Country ; for they make there above 1200 pound weight of char
Commodity. Their other Trade lies in Barley, Wine, Honey, Waxy
Wool ; their Cotton Manufacture is only for their own ule 1 they make-;
a pretty fort of gauze or yellow Veils, which the Women of the Ifland
wear about their heads. Thermia likewife affords plenty of Provifion •
there is fuch a prodigious quantity of Partridges, that they export Cages
full of 'em to the neighbouring Iflands, where they fell 'em for two Pa-
rats (Three-pence) a-piece • the place has few Rabbits, and no Hares at
all : as for Wood, they have none to fpeak of, Co they burn nothing
but Stubble.

THE principal Village of Thermia bears the fame Name ; the other
which is not fb large, is call'd Silaca : both together contain about 6 poo
Souls ; the Inhabitants of the whole Ifland generally pay 5000 Crowns to
the Capitation, and to the Land-Tax they were made to pay 6000
Crowns in 1700. As for their Religion, they are all of the Greek Rite,
except ten or twelve Latin Families, moft of 'em French Mariners, who
have but one Chappel, and that a poor one, in the Conful's Counrry-
Houfe : it is lupply'd by a Vicar, who is allow'd fifteen Crowns a year
by the Bifhop of Finos. The Greek Biihop there is pretty well to pafs,
and has above fifteen or fixteen Churches in the Town of Thermia alone.
1 s«t«£c«. xjie principal Church is dedicated to our ' Saviour ; it Hands at the upper
end of the Town, and is a very handfbme Building : the Monafteries are

X Bioft

Defer option of the IJland of Thermia. 2 5 r

mod: of 'em empty, except two call'd by the name of the ' Virgin, and as Lett.VIIT
many by that of ' St. Michael the Archangel. '^u^;^*

The Port of Sant-Erini, two miles from the Village, is very conve- "° T4'*£-
nient for Merchant-Ships, as well as that of St. Stephen to the fide of
Silaca : this latter looks South-South-Eafl, but the other North-North-
Eaft and North-Eaft.

BESIDES the Wells that are round the Villages, the Ifland wants gepmos,
for no Springs ; the molt noted are the hot ones, and from them the u>kt/ucma
Ifland takes its name : thefe are at the bottom of one of thofe parts of Th"mia> *"<*

r by Corruption

the Port that is impervious, North-Eaft as you enter on the right. The Femiij and
chief of the Springs boils up at the foot of a little Hill in a Houfe, whi-
ther they go to wain their Linen, and fweat when they're indifpos'd ; the
others bubble up Ibme paces further off^ and form a Stream which runs into
the Sea, from whence all thefe Waters come ; for they are very brackifh,
and no doubt contract their Heat in eroding the Hill amidfl Iron Mines
or ferruginous Subftances, which are the Caufe of moll hot Waters, as I
have laid down in my Defcription of Milo. Thefe of Thermia, turn the
Oil of Tartar white, but caufe no alteration in a Solution of corrofive
Sublimate, any more than the warm Springs of Protothalajfa in Milo, which
are abundantly hotter than thefe we're (peaking of. The antient Baths of
Therwia were in the midft of the Valley, where flill remain the Fragments
of a Repofitory built of Brick and Stone, with afmall Trench to conduct
1 the Water to what part they pleas'd : thefe Waters flill preferve their Vir-
tue, but have loll their Reputation, becaufe none refort to 'em but fuch
Invalids whom all the mineral Waters in the World will never cure.

I N this Ifland you fee likewife the two antient Towns of Hebreocajtro
and Paleocaftro : Hebreocaftro, or the Jews Town, is to the South- Weft
on the edge of the Sea, and on the flope of a Mountain near a Port
where is a finall Rock. The Magnificence and Grandeur of thefe Ruins
arc urprizing, and plainly fpeak it to have been a puifTant City, nay that
very City Dic^nrchm makes mention of. Among thefe Ruins, we were De Statu &■«•
led into three beautiful Caverns cut in the Rock by manual Labour, and
cemented, to keep the Rain-water from leaking in. By the remainder
of the Walls, built of huge Stones lozenge-cut and pointed like a Dia-
mond, we guefs'd 'em to be the Ruins of lbme antient Citadel \ but we

Kk 2 could

252 A Voyage into the Levant.

could find no Infcription, to let us into the name of the Town. They
iliew'd us a very fine Marble Grave-ftcne, almoft half-bury'd in the Earth,
and embeliih'd with Bafs-Reliefs ; as iikewife a Bounder-God of Marble,
the Drapery whereof is admirable.

PJLEOC ASTRO is another part of the Ifland, and tho 'tis quite

empty, yet is not Co ruinous as the other ; but it affords no Remains of

any thing grand : however, we obferv'd fome very fine Plants, and elpe-

Medicago ni- dally one which the Turks very much ufe the Trunk of, to make the

fo«ana. ft/fT Gripe of their Sabres with. They fay there's ftill in this Town 10 1

ReiHerb. Churches • we law many forfaken Chappels, but we had not curiofity

enough, or rather patience, to count 'em.

OUR Univerlal Quadrant gave us occafion to make fbme Remarks
with refpe<5t to Geography.

Serpho is South of Thermia.

Serphopoula South-Eaft.

Siphanto between the South-Eaft and South-South-Eaft.

Milo lies from the South to the South-South- Weft.

ZTA, KEflS. THUS much for Thermia : the Ifland of Zia affords a larger Field

cea'. ' for Difcourfe.

■ semusin ' ARISTEVS, Son of Apollo and of Cyrene, griev'd for the Death of

Vn-g.Georg.i. ^jg $on jffeofJy retired fwmThebes at the permafion of his Mother, and
went over to Ceos, now known by the name of Zja, and then uninha-

• Bibliot. Hift. bited. " Diodorus Skulus iays he went into that of Cos ; but 'tis likely
this Name was common to the Country of Hippocrates, and to the Ifland
of Kjos or Ceos and Cea : for Stephens the Geographer has uled the word
Kj>s f°r Kfost unlefs you'll have it be an Error both in him and in Diodo-
rus. Be this as it will, the Ifland of Ceos became ib populous, that a

Strab. Rer. Law pals'd, no left cruel than Angular, That all Perfons upwards of Sixty
eV ' • • years of Age ihould be poifon'd, that others might have wherewithal to
fubfift. Mean while this Country was cultivated to the utmoft degree, as
is manifeft by the Walls that were built to the very Extremity of the
Mountains to preferve their Lands: the truth is, they of this Ifland made
flight account of Life. Strabo reports likewife, that the Athenians rais'd

the

AY -T.

Defcription of the Ifland of Zia. 253

the Siege of Ioulit, upon being infbrm'd they had taken a Refblution to Lett.VIII.
kill all the Children of a certain Age. *>~/~Y^v-»

WE arrived at ZJa the 15 th of November in very foul Weather, which
retarded our Paflage not a little: for they count 36 miles from Thermia
to Zj*, tho 'tis but 1 2 from Cape to Cape. This Ifland mud have been
beyond comparifon much bi^eer, if Pliny was rightly inform'd of its Re- Hift- Njt- !*•

\ - • *" i- 1 • • „ , , 2. cap.92. 5:

volutions: in antient times, according to him, it was of a piece with the lib. 4. cap.12.
Ifland Eubea, but the Sea broke 'em aiiinder, and carry'd away great part Negropont,
of the Lands looking towards Beotia .- this indeed tallies exactly with the
Figure of ZJa, for it lengthens from North to South, and is contracted
from Eaft to Weft ; occafion'd perhaps by the Overflowing of the Black
Sea, fpoken of by Diodorus Siculus.

OF the four famous Cities which were in Ceos, none but Car the* re- ?«j.s*'*.n«'*

lie. ja. Strab.

mains, on whole Ruins is built the Burrough of ZJa : this no body can PoeeeiTa, pim-
doubt, that reads Strabo and Pliny : the latter fays, that Pceeeffa and Co- Ko^<t>Strab-

7 if 11 Coreflus, Plin.

reffus were fwallow'd up ; and Strabo writes, that the People of Pceeeffa I&it, Smb.
went over to Carthea, and thole of Coreflus to hulls. Now the Situation Ptolemyf.fi*"

' ■" mention like-

of Ioulis is lb well known, that it admits of no doubt : therefore all that's u'>fi »f th*
left is Carthea, ftill full of innumerable pieces of broken Marble, lying yund. °
abroad or ufed in the Houfes. K»f **«*< «• •»

THIS Burrough, or the old Cartbea, is on a Height three miles from k*?»w&, fc-
the Port, at the further end of a difagreeable Valley : 'tis a kind of Geog/i.b3*^
Theatre of 2500 Houfes, built in Stories and terrafs'd ; that is to fay,cap" I5'
their tops are quite flat, as they are all over the Levant, but firm and
ftrong as a Street-way. This is no wonder, in a Country where there's
no Carts nor Coaches, and where they walk in nothing but Pumps. To
the left is an empty Citadel, where fixty Turks made a brave defence
asainft an Army of Venetians, with only two Firelocks^ which was all the
Arms they could fave in the Shipwreck they had newly fufTer'd : they had
not furrender'd, but for want of Water. Among the Marble Monuments,
the word Gymnafurch is found in two Inlcriptions, pretty hard to be read :
we faw too a Bafs-Relief with the Figure of a Woman well- draper'd.

THE Town oi Car the a extended into the Valley w7hich comes to
the Sea- fide : here are many pieces of Antiquity, efpecially an Infcrip-
tion of forty one lines, tranfpoxted into St. Peter's Chappel; the be-
ginning

254 -^Voyage into the Levant.

ginning is wanting, and mod of the Letters fb expung'd, we could fcarce
pick any thing out but Gymnafiarch.

TO fee foraething more worth while, we directed our fleps towards
I0TM2. the South-South -Eaft, where are the Remains of the old Town of Ioulisy
now call'd Polls, as who fhould. lay the Polls, or City. Thefe Ruins take
up a whole Mountain, at whofe foot the Waves are always beating; but in
Straps time, they were three miles off it. Carejjus ferv'd it for a Port ; now
there's but two forry Creeks, and on the Cape's Point are the Ruins of an
antient Citadel. Hereabouts you difcover a Temple, from the Magnifi-
cence of its decay'd Remains ; mod of the Columns have their malt
half plain and half fluted, their diameter two foot within two inches,
their flutings three inches broad : they led us down to the Sea-fide through,
a noble Stair-cafe cut in the Marble, where they iliew'd us a Figure with-
out either Arms or Head ; its Drapery is well-contriv'd and regular, the
Leg and Thigh well-jointed : 'tis thought to be the Statue of the Goddefs
Nemefis, it being in the pofture of a Perfon purfuing fbme body. The
Remains of the Town are on the Hill, and extend as far as to the Valley
itfjifefcUfe h where glides the Fountain loulis, a beautiful Spring from whence the place
tMhKiAr ^as *ts namc* I never law fach huge Quarters of Marble, as thofe which
Kfnm. steph. are made ufe of in the building thefe Walls : fbme of 'em are above twelve
foot long.

AMONG thefe Ruins, in a Field fown with Barley, we found a bro-
ken Marble with the word iaAi'te, the Accufative of iaA/s ; the word
ZTe^pavos is twice there.

WE went from this Town to Cartbea^ through thefineft Road perhaps
that ever was in all Greece, and which ftill continues for above three miles-
together, parallel with a ftrong Wall cover'd with a flat Stone greyifh and
fplitting like a Slate : with thefe they cover the Houfes and Chappels in
mod of the Iflands.
Rer. Geog. 10 V LIS, according to Strabo, was the Country of Simonides the
hb. iq. Lyrick Poet, and of Bacbylides his Coufin. Erafifiratus a renown'd

Phyfician, and Jrifio the Peripatetick, were alfo born here. The Ojc-
Epoch. <;<;. ford Marbles tell us, that Simonides Son of Leoprepk, invented a fort
Tj Mmjuri- of artificial Memory, which he fhew'd the Principles of at Athens ;
and that he was defcended of another Simonides, a great Poet likewiic,

much

te/j

,/W ■?.-/-

Defer ipt ion of the Tjland of Zia. 255

much in efteem here, and fpoken of in the Epoch 50 : one of thefe two Lett. VIII.
Simonides invented thole doleful ' Verfes which ufed to be fung at Funerals. ■^Q'T^V-J
AFTER the Defeat of Cajfias and Brutus.* Mark Anthony gave the ^aeniaB- ,*j*

, J D Horat. lib. 2,

Athenians Cea, Egina, Twos, and fbme other adjoining Iflands : it is be- o^. i.
yond all doubt, that Cea was fubje&cd to the Roman Emperors, aira:* APP,aB«L5«
afterwards fell under the dominion of the Greeks. 1 know not what
Year it was annex'd to the Dutchy of Naxos, but Pierre Jnftiniani and Du Can3e

* J J Hift. of Con-

Dominique Michael leiz'd it in the Reign of Henry IJ. Latin Emperor of flam. lib. 2.
Constantinople. Father Sauger obferves, that during the Wars of the Ve- Hiftory of the
netians and Genoefe, Nicholas Carcerio, the ninth Duke of the Archipelago, ^ "J^ f °
declaring for the former, Zja, which belong'd to him, was befieged by
Philip Doria Governour of Scio : the Garilbn, not confiding of more than
a hundred Men, furrender'd at difcretion in the Citadel of the Town.
\1. du Cange, who places this Expedition in the Year 1553, was °* °pi~ lDki- "lj- '
lion that ZJa belong'd to the Genoefe ■ but we had better ftick to Father
laager, who exainin'd into the Archives of Naxos, on the very foot it ibid.
elf. ZJa was afterwards yielded up to the Dukes of the Archipelago, who
tcpt it till the Declenfion of their State. James Crifpo, the laft Duke,
•ave it in Dower to his Sifter Thadea, Wife of John Francis de Sommerive, Stitntoarfpaj
he eighth and laft Lord of Andros, drfpoiTels'd by Barbarojfa under So-
yman II.
THE Ifle of ZJa is at prefent well manured, and very fertile : they Et cult01' nCi

r moiiim cui

>reed good Cattel, but gather little Wheat • they abound in Barley and pfngnia Cex
Wiie : they have more Silk than at Thermia, and much of Velani; fo they veiwnS^
all the Fruit of one of the faireft Species of 5 Oak id the world : the meta iuY.e,aci-

--, * , .. Georg. I ft-, I.

Loot, Trunk, Height of it, is the lame with the ordinary Oak; it&verf.tA.
ranches very full and thick, wide-fpreading, crooked, whitifh within, ' Q.uer™s ca-

I 7 1 T-L T ,VCe ecl,in;"0,

over'd with a Bark greyifh, and in many places brown. The Leaves giande majors
row thereon in clufters, and are three inches long, two broad, round at
leir Bafe, deeply indented on the edges, each Tooth whereof (if we
lay fo call 'em) terminates in a flabby reddvih point : thefe Leaves are
lick, hard, pale green, fomewhat glittering in the upper part, cover'd
ith an almoft imperceptible Down, wjiite beneath, and as it were cot-
my,- fupported by a Tail about ten lines long. The Acorns are very
iffbrent from thofe of the ordinary Oak ; each of 'em begins by a Button

aluioft

2$6

A Voyage into ^Levant.

almofl fphcrical, and increafes to about an inch or fifteen lines diameter,
flat before, and hollow like a Navel, open enough to fliew the Point of
the Fruit within its Wrapper ; whereas our Acorns have only a flight fort
of Cap, that covers no more than a third part of 'em. The Wrapper of
the Acorn we are fpeaking of, is a fort of Box let off with feveral Scales
pale green, three or four lines long, pretty firm, a line and a half broad,
'h BAArtrof, blunt-pointed : when we were there, the Fruit was not ripe ; the Greeks
call them Vehni, and the Tree VeUnida.

HERE is likewife a fine fort of Phlomos or High-Taper, white, its
Leaves wavy and cottony, very different from that of Provence and La?i~

an Acorn.

guedoc.

o

VE RBASCVM Grscum^ fruticofum, folio fwuato candidiffimo. Co
rol. Inft. Rci Herb. 8.

ITS Root is woody, a foot long, bigger than one's Thumb, chapt,

bitterifh, hairy-fibred : its Stalk too is thicker than one's Thumb, hard,

white within, cover'd with a greyifhCoat, a foot and a half lone, with

Leaves clufter'd, feven or eight inches long, white, cottony, three or four

inches broad, but more undulated and prettier crifp'd than thofe of our

Vevbafcum lu- white High-Taper, (or Bouillon.) The Leaves of the middle of the

p^erfs cor- Clutters are thicker, yellowiih white : other Stalks rife from the Center

p.™lati' C' B' of tnefe Clufters to about two foot high, garnifh'd with fome Leaves,;*

fhorter, thicker, whiter. From their Bafes grow along the Stalks, anc

as it were in Balls, yellow Flowers, an inch broad, flafh'd into five parts

round, the two upper fomewhat lefs than the other. All thefe Flowers

have holes at the bottom, and from thence arife five purple Stamina oi

Threds, cover'd with a thick white Down ; hooked, top'd with Summi

ties of an Orange-colour. The Cup is a Cod five lines long, cottony.

divided into five points, from the bottom whereof rifes a Piftile termi

nating in a reddifh Thred : this Piftile turns to a red Cod, four lines long

two broad, hard, pointed, divided into two Cells, and opening in t\v(

parts fiil'd with fraall blackifh Seeds. This Plant has not degenerated ii

the King's Garden.

THE belt trading Commodity of the Ifland is of the fcre-defcribe<
VeUniy of which in the Year 1700, they gather'd above 5000 Hundrci
Weight. The iinall VeUni are the young Fruit gather'd off the Tree

\ an*

/;•/. /.

3,a$.Z$<f

/Pr/uisf///// araseusrv iyrulic0tfu/ri ,/b{io /isuisi-fio m/i
d/WiS si'/n*?- faro//. Irut-. list Aerv.S.

-

A>/ --1

j>.7/7.2.*r ■

Defcription of the IJlcrnd of Zia. 257

and much more valuM than thofe full ripe that fall of themfelves : both Lett. Vlir.
are ufed by the Dyers and Tanners. The young fort generally fetch a v-/^v/^-»
Crown the Hundred, whereas the other is not worth above half as much :
but moll: commonly they're mix'd. We left in the Port of ZJa a Vene-
tian Ship that was lading with thefe VeUni.

THIS Port, whofe Entrance is between the Weft-North-Weft an4
the North-Weft, admits the largeft VefTels : the beft Anchoring is on the
right, and the Spring of frefh Water is not far ofF (8). On the left is
a Road for Ships call'd the Cow's -Buttock, fit for none but finall VefTels.
The Chappels where Travellers ufually lie, are number'd (i) (2) ($) (4).

THIS Ifland produces a Lead like that of Siphanto, and chiefly be-
yond the Monaftery of St. Morina : thereabouts alfo is a Chalk like that
of Briancon. ZJa is deftitute of Oil and Wood : there's ftore of Wild-
Fowl, particularly abundance of Partridges and Pidgeons ; but the Inha-
bitants have feldom either Powder or Ball to kill 'em. The Venetian
Army, which was at Napoli di Romania, had fb famifh'd this Ifland when
we pafs'd that way, that a Pullet fold for Fifteen Pence.

I N all ZJa there are not above five or fix Families of the Latin Commu-
nion ; their Church is poor, ferv'd by a Vicar, to whom the Bifhop of
Tinos allows but fifteen Crowns a year, and this he muft go for as far as
Tinos ; for there's no fuch thing as Bills of Exchange here.

THE Greek Biihop is very rich, and the Ifland is full of Papas and
Chappels : there are five Monafteries of this Communion, St. Pantaleon,
St. Anne, la Madona d'Eprfcopi, Dapbni, and St. Marina, where they lliew,
as a Wonder of the Country, an antient fquare Tower of ordinary
Stone, cut oblique on the fides, facet-wife ; I thought it no Curiofity at
all. Below St. Marina, towards the Sea, runs a finall Brook : it may have
been the Elixm, which ran on to Carejfus. EssgdEAjgg

THE Burghers of ZJa generally get together in knots when they fpin Xi^KmUv.
their Silk ; they fit upon the very edge of their Terrafs-Roofs, and let Strab* lib- IO-
fall the Spindle into the ftreet, and then draw it up again in winding the
Thred. We found the Greek Bifhop in this pofture ; he ask'd who we
were, at the fame time giving us to understand that 'twas a fign we had
not much to do, if we came thither only to hunt for Plants and Pieces
of Antiquity : to which we reply'd, we mould be much more edify?d
Vol. I. LI to

258

A Voyage into the Levant

4

to find him reading St. Chryfoftom's or St. BafiPs Works, than winding off
Bottoms of Silk.

THE mart Clokes of Goats-hair wrought ia this Ifland, are very
commodious, and keep out the Rain a long while ; at firft- 'tis a fleafy
fort of Stuff", but thickens and contracts by being well prefs'd on the Sea-
Sand, which for that purpofe they wet again and again : after 'tis tho-
row ly foak'd and made lupple, they lay it in the Sun on Tenters with,
ftone Weights on it, left it iliould fhrink too foon,'

PL1NT and his Compiler Solinus write, that Silk-S tuffs were in-
vented here ; but it might be eafily made appear, it was in the Ifland of
5n cw infuU Cos, the Country of the renown'd Hippocrates. The lame Pliny obferv'd,
fe*nfunt.m' that in Zja they ufed to drefs the Fig-Trees with much care; they ftiU k
primo few fe- coatmue to ^0 fa. To underftand aright this Manufacture or Husbandry

quens CVOC.1- cr J

mv, fequenti 0f Figs (call'd in Latin, Capnjjcatio) we are to oblerve, that in moft of
t\ id caprffican- the Iflands of the Archipelago they have two forts of Fig-Trees to ma.
m^'it nage : the firft is call'd Ornos, from the old Greek Erinos, a Wild Fig-Tree, I
caP- 2~t- Caprifcus in Latin ; the fecond is the Domeftick or Garden Fig-Tree : the iii
done'1 vidl"" Wild f°rt bears tnree kinds of Fruit, Fornites, Cratitiresr Orni, of abfo- Hi
Theopimft. |utc neccffity towards ripening thole of the Garden-Fig. &

lib. 2. de Cau- J t J

fis'piaiu. c.i:. THE Fornites appear in August, and hold to November without ripen- i
dprificus vo- nig • jn thefe breed fmall Worms, which turn to. certain Gnats no where
"i'geneie Ficus to be feen but about thefe Trees : in October and November thefe Gnats
tuS?, fed" of themfclves make a pun&ure into the fecond Fruit, which is call'd Crati-
quodipfo non t;m and which don't fhew themfelves till towards the end of September;

habet alus tn- '. t.

buens. plin. and the Fornites gradually fall away after the Gnats are gone : the Crati~
™. wj.V.'" tires, on the contrary, remain on the Tree till May, and in-clofe the Eggs
depofited by the Gnats of the Fornites when they prick'd 'em. In May
the third fort of Fruit begins to put forth from the fame Wild Fig-Trees ]
« which produced the two other ; this is much bigger, and is call'd Orni :

when it is grown to a certain fize, and its Bud begins to open, it is prick'd
in that part by the Gnats of the CraJitires, which are ftrong enough to go
from one Fruit to the other to difcharge then Eggs.

IT fbmetimes happens that the Gnats of the Cm it ires are flow to
come forth in certain parts, while the Orni in thofe very parts are dik
pos'd to receive them : in which cafe the Husbandman is obliged co look

for

j

Defer ipt ion of the Ijland of Tail. 259

for the Cratitires in another part, and fix 'em at the end of the Branches Lett.Vin.

of thofe Fig-Trees whofe Orni are in fit difpofition, in order to be prick'd ^^V^*

by the Gnats : if they mifs the opportunity, the Orni fall, and the Gnats

of the Cratitires fly away. None but thofe that are well acquainted with

this fort of Culture, know the critical Minutes of doing this ; and in

order to it, their Eye is perpetually nVd on the Bud; of the Fig •, for

that part not only indicates the time that the Prickers are to ilTue forth,

but alfb when the Fig is to be fuccefsfully prick'd. If the Bud be too

hard and too compact, the Gnat can't lay its Eggs, and the Fig drops

when this Bud is too open.

THESE three forts of Fruit are not good to eat ; their Office is to
help ripen the Fruit of the Garden Fig-Trees, in manner following.
During the Months of Jane and July, the Peafants take the Orni at a time
that their Gnats are ready to break out, and carry them to the Garden
Fig-Trcc : if they don't nick the moment, the Orni fall, , and the Fruit of
the Domeftick or Garden-Fig not ripening, will in a very little time fall
in like manner. The Peafants are fo well acquainted with thefe precious
Moments, that every morning, in making their Inipe&ion, they only
transfer to their Garden Fig-Trees fuch Orni as are well-condition'd,
otherwiTe they'd lofe their Crop : 'tis true, they have one Remedy, tho
an indifferent one ; which is, to ftrew over the Garden Fig-Trees the
Afcolimbros, a very common Plant there, and in whole Fruit there are ^°'^ie.
certain Gnats proper for pricking: perhaps they are the Gnats of themof c.B.pin.
Orni, which are ufed to hover about and plunder the Flowers of this haw^/y£esi.
Plant. To wind up all in a word, the Peafants fo well order the Orni,
that their Gnats caufe the Fruit of the Garden Fig-Tree to ripen in the
compals of forty days.

THESE Figs are very good, green: when they would dry them,
they lay 'em in the Sun for fbme time, then put 'cm in an Oven to keep
'em the reft of the Year ; Barley-Bread and dry'd Figs are the principal
Subfiftence of the Boors and Monks of the Archipelago. But thefe Figs
are very far from being fo good as thofe dry'd in Provence, Italy, and
Spain ; the Heat of the Oven deftroys all their Delicacy and good Tafte :
but then, on the other hand, this Heat kills the Eggs which the Prickers

LI 2 of

2<fo ^Voyage into the Levant.

of the Orni difcharg'd therein ; which Eggs would infallibly produce
finall Worms that would prejudice thefe Fruits.

WHAT an Expenee of Thne and Pains is here for a Fig, and that but
an indifferent one at laft ! I could not fufficienriy admire at the Patience
of the Greeks, bufy'd above two months in carrying thefe Prickers from one
Tree to another ; I was fbon told the reafon : one of their Trees ufually
bears between two and three hundred Pound of Figs, and ours but
twenty five.

THE Prickers contribute perhaps to the Maturity orthe Fruit of the
Garden-Fig, by caufing to extravafate the nutritious Juice whofe Veffels
they tear afunder in depofiting their Eggs : perhaps too, befides their
Eggs, they leave behind 'em fome fort of Liquor, proper to ferment gently
with the Milk of the Fig, and to make the Flefh of 'em tender. Our
Figs in Provence, and even at Paris, ripen much iboner for having their
Buds prick'd with a Straw dipt in Olive-Oil : Plumbs and Pears prick'd
by fome Infect do likewife ripen much the falter for it, and the Flefh
round fuch Puncture is better-tafled than the reft. It is not to be diiputed
but that a confiderable Change happens to the Contexture of Fruits fb
prick'd, juft the fame as to the Parts of Animals pierced with any fbarp
Inftrument.

'TIS fcarce poffible well to underftand the antient Authors who
have treated of Caprifkation (or husbanding and dreiTIn g of Wild Fig-
Trees) if one is not well appriz'd of the Circumftances ; the Particulars
whereof were conflrm'd to us not only at ZJa, Twos, Mycone, and Scio ;
but in molt of the other Iflands. Before we left ZJa, we afcended to
the Tower of the Monaftery of St. Pantaleon, where we made the fol-
lowing Geographical Station.

Macronifi and Cape Colvnne Weft-North-Weft.

Gaidaronifi and Porto-Leone of Athens Wefl.

St. George of Mora and Hydra Weft-South- Weft.

Engia or Egina between Weft and Weft-South-Weft..

Thermit between the South and South-South-Eaft.

Serf ho and Siphanto South.

Milo between the South and South-South-Weft*

Sjra Eaft-South-Eafh

Andres

Defcription of the Ifland of Macronifi. 26t

Andros North-Eaft. Lett. VII L

Carifio North-North-Eaft. ^-v^j

Jour* Eaft.

Tinos between the Eaft and Eaft-South-Eaft.
Cape Skilli Weft.
Negropont North.
Port Raphti North-Weft.
THEY count from Zja to Fort Colonne 18 miles, to Cape Oro 40
miles, and from Cape Oro to Cape Colonne 60 miles.
•.

W E began to be quite fick of Zja, where the contrary Winds detain'd Macrons.
U9from the 5th of November to the 2jft ; at what time we were invited st, Long
by the Serenity of the Weather to pafs over to Macronifi, an abandon'd lfland*
but famed Ifland, twelve miles from Zja, reckoning from one Cape to ano-
ther, and feparated from the Terra-frma of Greece, or from the Coaft of *
Cape Colonne, by a Strait feven or eight miles over. Pliny fays, that the Hift. Nat.
Ifland Helene, or the Macronifi of the modern Greeks, is equally difrant1,M,cap'12'
from Cea and Cape Sunittm or Cape Colonne, where are the Ruins of the
Temple of Minerva Suniades : he fettles the diftance at 5000 paces : it is
probable the Sea, which has wrought fo many Revolutions in Zja, occa-
fions the difference of our Meafures.

THIS Ifland which is calTd MacrU, according to Stephens the Geo- makpis..
grapher, and which Pliny fays was feparated from the Ifland Eubea by the
Impetuoufnefs of the Sea, was not above three miles broad, and feven or
eight long; which is not very wide of the Dimenfion Strabo makes it to 60 Stacks-.
be of, and which oceafton'd its being call'd the Long Ifland. This Geo- ?-er- GeoS-
grapher writes, that it was antiently call*d Cranae, rugged, craggy ; but
it took the name of Helen after Paris had brought thither that Grecian eaenh.
Beauty, whom he had newly run away with. Stephens the Geographer i„ Attic.

pretends, with Paufanias, that this was not done till after Troy was ta- in Attide He-

i , . • • 1 l T/i 1 • • lene eft nota

ken • the Date is of no great concern : but certain it is, that the Illand is in fuipro Helens,

the very fame condition Strabo defcribed, namely, an uninhabited Rock ; situorfjit.^

fb that Helen belike had but an indifferent time of it there. Nor indeed caP- 1-

could I be brought to believe it ever was inhabited, but that Goltzius ^^'*SiH»b.

fDeaks of two Medals relating to the Inhabitants of it : we pafs'd over its ibid-

r , * eaenitkn.

•V cras§y

262 ^Voyage into ^Levant. 3

craggy Top, to get a fight of the Terra-firma of Greece. Macronif has

only a lorry Creek looking Eaft ; there's hardly Water enough to whet

one's Whiffle in the whole Ifland, and none but the Shepherds of Zja,

know where that is.

* n k 11, sen- W E lay in a Cavern near the Creek ; but we were heartily feared in

the Night : fome Sea-Calves, which had taken up their quarters in the

next Cavern to ours, fet up iuch hideous Cries, that we thought 'em fbme

Fiends from the other World ; our Mariners laughing, put us into heart

again. Whether thefe. Creatures make this notfe waking or fleeping, I

Hift. Nat. know not : it is a great diipute among the Commentators of Pliny ■. Her-
Jib, 9. cap. iS. ^

woUus Bar bams thinks it is , the latter, but be is not back'd by the old

A?"T V °Ss1 Manufcripts of Pliny ; befides, they oppofe to him a Text of Arijlotle

Arift. in ft. conformable to thele Manufcripts : without entring into this DhTertation,

capbi2. it is better abiding by what our Mariners told us of the matter, • namely,

- That thele Calves were at that time making love, or catterwawling. At

Day-break they quitted their Cavern, and dived fb fwift into the Sea,

there was no catching 'em.

THE only Pleaiure we had in this Ifland was Simpling, and in this

particular it is the lrioft agreeable of the whole Archipelago : the Plants

here are larger, frefher, and fairer than elfewhere ; we met with feveral

we had not let eye on fince we left France.
helianthe- THAT which Glvfiw calls Ciftus with Thyme-Leaves, anfwers ex-
foik/ehbr™1 a^y to P^/s Defcription of his Helenium ; he advances, that it was to
ir.ji. Re, Herb. ^ founcj in the Ifland Helene. and that it fprung from Helen's Tears : he

Otitis toho ' 1

Tiiymi. ciuf. leems here, according to his wonted Cultom, to have copy'd part of the
Hdenium, a Defcription Diofcorides gives of Helenium of Egypt, which was found on
i'enxydk-u"e" tne Coaft near C-wo/f, in an Ifland likewife call'd Helene, from the fame
namm, & jdeo pj jnce{s. Jf we will believe the Author of the Grand Greek Dictio-
fuia buJatifli- nary, who likewife relates the Fable of Helen's Tears, this Plant grows.
a"cm fmL about Alexandria : probably thefe Tears [fang very eafily. As for the
luimi fc ip.ir- common ■ Helenium, 4t does not grow in Macromfi • xhe 'After with white

•_;ens dodranta- ' ° ■' ' J

fibus ramuifs Phlomos-Leaves may be fufpeclcd to be the firft fort of Helenium of
pillo. plin. Diofcorides., it' the Structure of its Root correfponded better with the
W^-''2I'C,I°' Defcription this Author makes of it. This After is common enough at

■ Aun*e. I

= After tomen- Macromfi.

tofus, Verbifti _ _ . . , ,„

Jb'.io. ii. K. P. IjLI.Nu

toLl.

r

<■'•'■■'

■ ■J£\J> ,

I

I

ill

:

:

Defer iption of the IJland of Joura. 263

BEING apprehenfive of two Inconveniences in this Illand, namely, Lett. VIIL
Banditti and Famine, we tarry'd but 24 hours in it : and happy was it we w ^^ >^>
return'd to ZJa, for from the 8th of November to the 21ft, the Weather
was fo very tempeftuous, we had certainly perifh'd in that wretched
place, not having brought with us above five or fix days Provifion : lb
we got away as loon aspoffible to Zja, from whence we could not let
forward before the 2 a ft of November, and thence we fteer'd to Jour a..

THE Romans knew what they did, when they banihYd Offenders to jour a.
this Ifland ; there is not a more diiagreeable barren place in all the Archi- gy-arus
felago, not fb much as a Plant of any curio fity : we found nothing butGi'ARA\
huge Field-Mice, perhaps of the Race of thofe that forced away the In- brevibqsGyari*
habitants, as ■ Pliny reports. Some ? Authors, to let forth the Wretchednefs nu^ ^HVJi
of the Country, made no fcruple to fay that thefe Creatures were forced Sau
to gnaw the Iron juft as 'twas drawn out of the Mines. This fhews lib. ?.' cap.3?s
there were Iron Mines in Jour a, and truly the Soil looks difinal enough ' Amfeon.c*

*\ * ' ° rift. Natrat.

to confirm it. Miwb. c.2r,

JOVRA at this day is intirely abandon'd, and affords not any Foot-. A,rift: libA- de

•J J J ' J Mir.ib. Aufc.

fteps of Antiquity ; 'tis 'true, it was ever poor : s Strabo found in it but .©ian. Hift.

one Village, and that inhabited by none but beggarly Pifhermen, one of Aa""Ij" "^

whom was deputed to Auguflus, to obtain a Diminution of their Tribute steph. Byzam. .

fet at i^oDeniers. We recollected the Idea of this Miiery at fight of'Rer. Geog,

three ghaflly Shepherds, who had been flarving there ten. or twelve days ;

they look'd as if they had been cut down from a Gibbet : they came to

us, and without any Ceremony fell to rumaging our Caick for Bisker,

which they fwallow'd, hard as 'twas, without ever chewing ; confeffing

they were forced to eat their Meat without either Bread or Salt, fince the

Badnefs of the Weather had prevented their Matters, the Burghers of

Syra, from fending them their ufual Allowance.

JOVRA is but 12 miles about, andP//>j well knew the Compafs of
ir: it is 12 miles from Syr a, coafling it, and 18 from Zja from one Cape *
to the other ; but above 25, to go from thd Port of ZJa to the Creek
of Joura, whole Entrance is between the South and South-South- Eaft, near
the ugly Rock of Glaroniji, or the Ip of Cormorants,

m

264. ^Voyage into the Levant

I N the Map of Greece done from M. Baudrand, there's mention of the
Ifle of Joura, placed between Sjra and Andros, and much larger than the
firft of thofe Iflands : in all probability they meant the Joura we're fpeak-
ing of; yet the Author of that Map fets down another Jour a near Delos
where 'tis certain there's no fuch place. He put Tragonifi and Stapodia
juft by Nicaria, tho Tragonifi is that he calls Rocbo, a mile from Mycone,
and Stapodia fix miles farther, and above thirty miles off Nicaria. 'Tis a
common thing for Geographers to add to the Creation, and form ima-
ginary Countries, not of God Almighty's making. The fame Author
marks round Milo feparately the Ifles of Rencomilo and Antimilo, tho they
are only two Names of the farce place, call'd Rencomilo by the Greeks,.
and Antimilo by the franks. There's no Ifland of Caura between Zjt
and Andros, unlefs it be perhaps a fmall Rock juft by Port Gaurio of the
Ifland of Andros, call'd Gaurionifi. I could not find the Ifle Camera,
placed by this Author between Nio and Nanjio; he calls Sikino that
which he fhould have call'd Policandro : the Ifle of Sicandro not bein«
known in the Archipelago, 'tis likely it was fwallow'd up by the Sea. I
fay nothing of the Situation of the Iflands or their Towns, which for
the mod part are topfy-turvy in this Map, and much worfe in that of
Sophianits. That of the Mediterranean Sea by M. Bert helot, Profeflbr of
Hydrography at Marseilles, is the belt that has yet been publifli'd, efpe-
cially for the Latitudes. M. Berthelot is an ingenious Man, and rectifies
his Maps every day from the Journals of Pilots ; Jiowever, as Men often
go from one place to another by different Winds, 'tis not furprizing
there fhould be fbmething to be chang'd in the Pofition of fbme Iflands,
efpecially in the Contours of the Coafts of the firm Land. The Ifle of
JScio and Cape Carabouron are very well mark'd there ; but there's fbme-
thing wrong in the Ifle of Meteline, and the Terra-frma of Afia. The
Archipelago of Mark Bofchini is full of faults, as well as the Charts of that
Sea done in Italj. The Plans of Towns by Bofchini, are no better than
thofe of Porcachi. To make a good Chart of the Mediterranean, a Man
fhould follow the Defign of the Flambeau de la Mer, printed in Holland in
1705. and flick to the Chart of M. Berthelot for the Latitudes: thefe are
two valuable Performances. M. de Life, of the Academy Royal of Scien-
ce% has newly publifli'd an excellent Chart of the Archipelago, from the

Memoirs

I"

n/.-l.

^:AL- -

■■"

AXDROS

4:111

Defer iption of the Ijlctnd of Andros. 265

Memoirs of feveral Perfbns who have been perfbnally there; being an Lett. VIII.
able Cofmographer and skilful Aflronomer, he has corrected their Ob- {^^r^-*
fervations with great exadlnefs, and redrefs'd many^things with refpec"l to
antient Geography.

THESE are the Reflections we made atjoura in the night-time, as
we lay in a ruinated Chappel, where we durfl not fleep for fear the
Field-Mice mould come and gnaw our Ears ; fo we did not wait till Day
to be going over to Andros.

AiVDROS, which Pliny fets down to be ten miles off Caryjto, and JSSSSs
! thirty nine from ZJa, had many Names antiently. ' Paufania-s fays, thatf Andrus.
jof Andros was given it by Andrew ; and Andrew, according to * Diodorm cauro's, Lafia
\Siculw, was one of the Generals whom Rbadamanthus appointed in this jj^^g* "y"
Ifland : which made a free Gift of it felf to him, in like manner as mofl g»s- vUn.mii.

I. 4. c. 12.

|of the neighbour Iflands. * Phocfc.

*CO NO N carries the Genealogy further, and tells us that this fame ' Bibiiot. Hift.

lib. 5.

indreus or Andrus was Son of Anius, and that Anius was Son of Apollo and ♦ Narrat.
Ireufa. The Ifland we're fpeaking of, was named Antandros, becaufe, fays Am m% «V
ie, Afcanius Son of Apneas, who was its Lord, gave it in ranfbm to the v^' pr°

\Pelafgians, whole Prifbner he was. Stephens the Geographer fays nothing
particular of Andros, only he doubts whether Andrus was Son of £«rj-
Mchus or of Anius his Brother.

THE Ifle of Andros flretches from North to South, and is but eighteen
liles from Joura ; but above thirty from one Port to another. We ar-
ived the 2 2d of November at the Port of the Caflle, the chief Town of

[iche Ifland ; the Greeks call it the lower Caflle, to diftinguifh it from the Cato-cafeo,
jper Caflle, ten miles diflance. The old Marble Monuments of this 0rCoJ! '
ower Caflle, fliew plainly it was built on the Ruins of fome antient and
lately Town; perhaps by the Lords of Andros, who chofe this place for
heir Refidence, and who built there a Fort on the Point of Land which
eparates the Port in two : the Entrance of the Port is between the North
nd Eafl-North-Eafl ; but 'tis only fit for fmall VefTels. The Gentry
hink themfelves fecure from the Corfairs in this Caflle ; more than that,
c is the mofl agreeable and fertile part of tho Illand.

Vol.I. Mm 4. GOING

<i66

A Voyage into the Levant

twCJLS), Ah-
Qo-M-n-, Pia-
tiirn, loa

amcena.

GOING out of this Burgh, yon enter one of the fineft Champains
in the World ; on the left is the Plain of Livadia, i. e. agreeable Spot :
it is planted with Orange, Lemon, Mulberry, Jujeb, Pomegranate, and
Fig-Trees ; nothing's to be feen but Gardens and Rivulets. The Cabbage
Braflica Gon- call'd Chou-rave is very common, as in all the other Iflands ; 'tis the
%£. ei ' fame with that which at Paris they call Qhou de Siam, fince the Ambaffa-
dors of Siam came to the Court of France, tho this Plant was long be-
fore known in Europe.

ON the right hand of the Caftle of Andros, you enter the Valley of
'Megnitez, as pleafant as the other, and water'd with thole pretty Springs-
which come from about the Madona of Cumuloy a noted Chappel above
the Valley : thefe Springs turn eight or nine Mills ; one of the moft con-
fiderable of them iflues from the fame Rock as makes part of the ChappeL

The other Villages of the Ifland are,

I

MeJTty

CureUij

Arna,

Lardity

Strapurinsy

Pitrofoy

AmelochOy

Gianifiesy

La Picbia,

Megnitez,

Atinatiy

Gridiat

Livadia,

LamirOy

Vouniy

Pifcopio,

Merta Chorhy

Jpfltiy

CaftanieZ)

Capraria,

Aladina,

Steniezy

Cochiluy

Aipatia*

Falicay

Vurcortiy

'

IB

1

THE Village of Arm is built in feparate Clufters, adorn'd with Plane- , 3fi
Trees and ftreaming Rivulets : to go to it, you crofs the higheft Moun- .,
tain of the Ifland. Both it and Amelocho are inhabited by none but Alba- ,.
noisy (till drefs'd in the Mode of their Country, and continuing to live J£
fo ; i.e. without Faith or Law. The Turks engaged 'em to come hither, •,
where are Icarce 4000 Souls : the Lands look'd to be well manured;
Pliny makes this Ifland to be but 93 miles about 7 the Inhabitants fay
'tis 120.

THE principal Riches of Andros confift in Silk ; tho 'tis good for -
nothing but to make Tapeftry, no more than that of Tbermia, Caryfio7 :
and Volo, yet does it fetch a Crown and a half per pound on the fpot; they
make above 10000 pound per am. perhaps if it were well prepared, it
might ferve for Stuffs, Ribbands, and Sewing- work. The Ifland yields

X Wine

Defcription of the IJland of Andros. 26 j

Wine and Oil enough for the Inhabitants ; Barley is in much greater plcn- Lett. VIII.

ty than Wheat, which they are often forced to fetch from Fob. The ^-'^V^V-^

Mountains of Andros are cover'd with Arbute- Trees in many places ; the

Fruit thereof they diftil to make Brandy : the black Mulberries yield alfb

a fiery Spirit, not difagreeable, and they feed the Silk-worms with the

Leaves of this Mulberry. The Pomegranates are exquifite, you may

have a hundred for Three-pence ; Lemons are almoft as cheap, and lb Two parats.

~-a. > r,v,ft„r ' Malus Medi-

ate Citrons. c „ .

THE Cadi refides in the Cattle, with the Gentry of the Country and gemi mbaofo.
the Adminiftrators : one or two of thefe latter are created every year. Ponciie 0'r
The Ifle paid 1 5000 Crowns to the Capitation and Land-Tax in 1 700. Cedie'

W E went and paid our Refpeclrs to the Aga Commandant of the Ifland ;
he lives in an old fquare Tower, to which you go up by fourteen (lone
fteps, whereon is placed a wooden Ladder of the fame length, directly
aulwering to the Door-fill : upon the lead: apprehenfion of Corlairs on
the Coaft, the Ladder is drawn up, and the Fire-locks prepared to give
'em a Reception. The Aga's Tower is out of town, we found him much
indiipos'd ; he took very kindly a Prefent we made him, namely, a
Chryftal Bottle full of a Volatile, Aromatick, Oily Spirit, proper to eafe
him in his Afthmatick Fits. The whole Ifland is full of luch-like Tower?,
where the molt J Subftantial make their abode : they are ftrong, and have * "&?&, "V
only Dormer-Windows and Sky-lights, as in Dungeons of Prifons. -S^ayf, *a-

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are all of the Greek Communion, ?J7(Pro' J*
except Meffieurs de U Grammatics two very rich Brothers, and very Zea- bilis Dominus>
lous for the Latin Church : in their Chappel it is that the Conlul of
France hears Mais. The Latin Bifliop has but 300 Crowns a year ; lome Te«tj7«>.A-
Icime ago a lad Accident befel him : as he was palling over from Andros
ho Ataxia the place of his Birth, with his Robes and Church-Plate, he
was taken by the Turks, ftript, baflinado'd, put in the Gallies, and was
fain to pay 500 Crowns for his Deliverance : he never could difcover the
'.ea(l colour of realbn for their ferving him lb,

THE Greek Bilhop has 500 Crowns a year, and many comforta-
ble Additions in this Ifland, which is fo well ftock'd with Papas and Ca-
oyers : its chief Monafteries are Crufo Pigni, Panacrado, and San Nicolo
ioras. And yet fuch is the Ignorance of thefe Religious, that the Burghers

M m 2 were

268 A Voyage into the Levant.

were obliged, for the Education of their Children, to recall the Capu-
chins. Signior Nicolo Condofialvo, a rich Merchant of Andros now at
Venice, contributed a hundred Crowns towards rebuilding their Convent
and fettled fixty Ducats a year for ever towards its Maintenance, befides
the Prefent he made 'em of the Sacerdotal Veftments, and the Plate for
Divine Service. M. Nicolachi de la Grammatica, and fbme other Lords
of the Country, tho of the Greek Perfiiafion, have likewife been con-
fiderable Benefactors to the Church of thefe good Fathers dedicated to
St. Bernardin, but not made ufe of thefe fifty Years pad. What M. Theve-
not relates concerning the Proceffion on Corpus-Cbrijli-Day in Andros, is
ftill pradtis'd there ; viz. that the Latin Bifhop, who carries the Body of
our Lord, treads upon the necks of the Chriftians that proftrate them- \
felves in the ftreets, of whatever Communion they be. The Jefuits had
a good Hofpital in this Ifland ; but they were forced to quit it fome t
Years ago, through the Oppreffions of the Turks.

THE 27th of November we went to fee the Ruins of Paleopolis, two
miles from Arna, to the South-South-Weft, beyond Port Gaurio : this i
Lib. 3. Town, which bore the Name of the Ifland, as we are told by Herodotus It

De Simpl.Ms d. ~

racuL lib. 9. and Galen, was very large, and fituated advantageoufly on the Brow of m
a Hill that commands the whole Coaft ; there are (till to be feen the Re- rii
licks of a very folid Wall, efpecially in a certain remarkable place, where loi
.Lib. 31. C.4S. f^ood belike the Citadel mention'd by Livy. Here are fine Columns, p
Chapiters, Bafes, and fome Infcriptions, fbme of which fpeak of the Se-
nate, People of Andros, and Priefls of Bacchus ; which made me fancy m
the faid Infcription was placed either on the Walls or in the famous loi
Temple of that Deity, and confequently that it might point out the Si-
tuation of that Fabrick. fro
ADVANCING among thefe Ruins, we lit on a Figure of Marble, 4c
without Head and Arms; its Trunk was three foot ten inches high, and .Jin
the Drapery very fine. On the fide of a fmall Brook that fiipply'd the
Town with Water, we oblerv'd two more Trunks of Marble Statues,
which difcover'd the maflerly Hand of the Carver : this Brook put me
A,Sf'0so<fcW.in mind of the Spring caU'd JUpiterh Prefent, but we could not find it [
lib?* c ic- . out ; it may be bury'd among thefe Ruins, or perhaps this is the very
Brook that went by that name. Be that as 'twill, this Spring, according

to

Defer iption of the IJland of Andros. 2<5p

to the Report of Mutianus, had the tafteof Wine in January, and could Lett.VIII.
not be far off, fince Pliny places it near the Temple of Bacchus, men- ^^f^*
tion'd in the above Infcription. The fame Author fays this Miracle lafted h;i>. Nat.
feven days, and that this Wine became Water, upon being carry' d out ' "il*
of view of the Temple. Paufanias makes no mention of this Occur-
rence ; but advances, that it was the general Belief that every year du-
ring the Feafts of Bacchus, Wine flow'd from the Temple of that God in
Andros : the Priefts, no doubt, took care to keep up this Belief, by con-
veying a quantity of Wine through fecret Canals.

THE Port Gaurio is hard by thefe Ruins to the South-Eaft, and may
contain a large Fleet. Alcibiad.es put in there with a Fleet of a hundred Dl'°f sic-
Ships; he took and fortify'd the Caftle of Gaurium, whence comes the lib. 13. "
word Gaurio or Gabrio. The Andrians withftood the Athenians with all
their Forces, join'd with the Succours they had receiv'd from Peloponne-
fus ; but they were beaten, and conftrain'd to fhelter themfelves within
the Walls of their Town ; which Alcibiades not being able to take, went
and ravaged the Iflands of Rhodes and Cos, after he had left a ftrong Gari-
fon in the Caftle of Gaurium, commanded by Thrafybulus. This was
not the firft time the Athenians had vifited the Ifle of Andros : Themifto-
cles had humbled the Andrians fome years before ; for they having been a
long time under the dominion of the Naxiots, were the firft that took
party with the Perfians, whole Fleet had reduced almoft the whole Archi-
pla^e. The Greeks confederating, refolv'd to attack the Town of An-L^' ^J& 8*
dros, and Themifiocles not being able to levy Contributions on it, laid
formal fiege to it : he being an excellent Soldier, as well as a rare Wit,
order' d the Commandants of the place to be told, that the Athenians had
brought with them two mighty Deities, Perfuajion and Neceffity ; and
therefore he muft have fbme of their Mony by fair means or by fouL
They made anfwer, that truly for their parts they had no other Dei-
ties but Poverty and Impoffibility. The Town, 'tis like, was taken by
Storm, and the Ifland roughly treated, fince Pericles fbme time afterwards Plutarch. ia
fent thither a Colony of 250 Men ; whereas the Andrians were accuftom'd
to fend Colonies abroad into Thrace on the fide of AmphiplU, fubdu'd by Diod sfc
Brafidas a Lacedemonian Captain. gbiioth. Hiifc

' PTOLE-

2yo A Voyage into the Levant.

' lagus. * PTOL EMT, the firft of tke Name, being refolv'd to free the Towns'

Diod.sic. ibid, of Greece, travers'd the whole Archipelago with a ftrong Naval Force, and

ilb,2°' obliged the Garifon of Andros, then engaged on the fide of Antigonus, to

furrender themfelves, and quit the place : whereby he reflored that Town

to its priftine Liberty.

ATTALVS King of Pergamus laid fiege to Andros with a Rowan
Lib. 31.C.45. Army, which landed at VortGaurio, call'd Gauroleon by Liij : the Town
made no great refinance, and the Garifon retiring into the Citadel, capi-
tulated three days after. The Romans had all the Plunder : Attains had
the Ifland for his ihare, which to prevent the difpeopling of, he perfuaded
the Macedonians that were prefent, and the Natives, to continue there.
The Romans, upon the death of that Prince, being Heirs to all his Pof-
feffions, kept the Ifland till the Greek Emperors got it from 'em.
1203. ANDROS farrender'd to Alexis Comner.es, in his return from Italy to

implore the Succour of the Crufaders towards re-inthroning John Angela
Du CaugeHift. Comnene s his Father, Who was difpoflefs'd, imprifon'd, and depriv'd of Sight
Couft. b.i. by his Brother Alexis Comnenes Andronicus. Some time after the taking
of Confiantinople, Marinas Dandalo feiz'd the Ifland of Andros ; it was
idem, b. 2. afterwards poiTefs'd by the Houfe of Zjno, and given in Dower to Can-
Hiftory of the tiana %eno efpous'd to Courfin de Sommerive, as is obferv'd by Father Sau-
Ardnfeiago. ger, in the Life of James Crifpo eleventh Duke of Naxia. Courfin, the
third of the Name, and feventh Lord of Andros, was flript by Barbarojfa ;
but at the Solicitation of the Ambaflador of France, Solyman II. re-
inflated him in his Domains. John Francis de Sommerive was the laft
Lord of this Ifland ; and his Subjects of the Greek Communion, after
attempting to aflaflinate him, gave themfelves up to the Turk, that they
might intirely get rid of the Yoke of the Latins.

PORT Gaurio is the beft Port of the Ifland, and the Venetians come
thither to refrefh when they're at war with the Turks. Over agaiufl it,
is a very long Range of Rocks call'd Gattrionifi ; perhaps the Ifle call'd
Caura by Baudrand. Night coming on, hindred us from fearching after
the Veftigia of the Caftle of Gaurium.
..t WE were forced to lie at the Monaftery of the Virgin; an ordinary

piece of Building, tho the Monks are very rich. They have laid afide
2. good Cuflom the,y had in M. Thevenofs time, that is to fay, Feafling

of

AVJ

^y ■*;.-•

Defcription of the IJland of Tinos. 1 7 1

of PafTengers : we muft have faded whether we would or no, but for Lett.VIII.
M. Gafparachi, who lent us half a Sheep, with fome excellent Wine and ^^^v*^
other Refrelhnients. Next day we faw at Mafs abundance of Albanois
Women finely drefs'd, much beyond the Greek Women, who don't drefs
near lb well as any of thele Wanders. The Women of Andros ftmT their
Coats with great Rolls of Cloth, which makes 'em look like a Fardingalc.

THE Weather beginning to be cold, and the Sea rougher every day
than other, we went over to Tinos, in order to withdraw to Mycone, and
wait there for better Weather : the Archipelago is very dangerous in Win-
ter. Dionyfius the Geographer had juft realbn to fay there's no Sea toffes T"^*1 t5
its Waves higher, becaufe, as he very well obferves, being full of I (lands, phcc^yw w»
the Waves dalhing againft them with impetuofity, muft create a great "^ ^^~.
agitation : and, as Hefychius fays, the Surges refemble fo many Goats f^"i
skipping and bounding the fields. rpivatojiu*

*T I S but a mile, as Pliny obferves, from Jndros to Tinos : we crofs'd ^!"vet°.% i,
over the firft of December in a Caick; for by realbn of the fix Rocks ^32'133*
that are in the middle of the Canal, large VeiTels can't pafs. It is forty yuft* *«&£>-
miles from the Port of the Caftle of Jndros to that of St. Nicolo of 77- Hefych'
nos, where we arrived not till Seven in the Evening ; and the Officers re-
futing at that hour to take the trouble to perufe our Certificate of Health,
or to fend to the Conful of Trance, we were fain to lie in our Boat : they
were indeed io civil, as to make us an offer of the Lazaretto, in company
of fome Slaves who were devour'd with Vermin.

NEXT day the Conlulof Trance difpatch'd a Viewer to the Fortrels3
to his Excellency M. Lewis Cornaro, Proveditor of the Wand, who
granted us what they call the Pratique, i. e. Licence to come afliore.

THE We of Tine was antiently call'd Tencs, according to Stephens the tise.
Geographer, from one Tenos who firft peopled it. Herodotus lays, frWasTg^os
part of the Empire of the Cyclades, which the Naxiots polfefs'd in days
of yore. Mention is made of the Tenians among the People of Greece,
who had furnifh'd Troops at the Battel of Plate a, where Mardoniiis Ge-
neral of the Perfians was worfted ; and the Names of all thele People
were graved on the right hand of a Bafis of Jupiter's Statue, looking
Eaftward. By the Infcription quoted by Paufanias, the People of this Eiiac'pnor.

Wand

272 A Voyage into the Levant.

Ifland fliould feem to be at that time equal in Power to thofe of Naxos

Herod, lib. 3. if not fuperiour. And yet thofe of Tenos, the Andrians, and moft of the

other Iflanders, whofe Interefts were interwoven, being frighten'd at the

exorbitant Power of the Orientals, made no hefitation in Tiding with

them : Xerxes made ufe of them, and of the People of the Ifland of

Eubea, to recruit his Army. The maritime Strength of the Tertians is

Thniqn. noted in a very old Medal (truck with the Head of Neptune, revered in

torn??. °>aS' an efpecial manner here; the Reverie reprefents the Trident of that God,

accompany'd with a couple of Dolphins : Goltzim likewife fpeaks of

Comment. nvo Medals of Tenos with the fame Type. Tri (tanas too mentions a

riiit. torn, 2« *i \. j

fiiver Medal of the Tenians with Neptune's Head, and a Trident for the
Reverfe.

THE Burrough of St. Nicolo, built on the Ruins of the antient City
of Tenos, inftead of a Harbour, has nothing but a forry Creek looking
to the South, from whence you defcry the Illand of Syra to the South-
South-Weft. Tho there are not above 150 Houfes in the place, yet the
Name of Polls, which it ftill retains, and the feveral Medals and Monu-
ments of Marble that are from time to time dug up there, permit us not
Rer. Geog. to doubt its having been the Capital of the Ifland. Strabo fays, it was no
great City, but that there was a very handlbme Temple of Neptune in an
adjoining Grove : this Temple had an Afylum, the Privileges whereof
Tacit. Anna!, were regulated by Tiberius, as were likewife thofe of the moft eminent
6C63'. CJp" °5 Temples of the Levant. Philocorus, cited by Clemens Alexandrinus, re~'
Adrrion. ad lates, that Neptune was honour'd in Tenos as a great Phyfician ; and the

Gentes, ,

fame is confirm'd by fbme Medals : the King has one, mention'd by Trif.
Comment. tanus and Pal in ; the Head is of Alexander Severas, on the Reverfe is a
Hift. tom. 2. Trident witn a Snake wreathing about it, the Emblem of Phvfick with
Ophiufli. riin. rhe Antients : befides, this Ifland was call'd the Snake-Ifland.

I T is fixty miles in circuit, and ftretches from North-North-Weft to
South-South-Eaft ; full of bald Mountains, but the beft-mauured of any
in the Archipelago. All its Fruit is excellent ; Melons, Figs, Grapes : the
Vine thrives there to admiration, and has doubtlefs fo done a long time •
Numifm.Grxc for M. Vaillant fpeaks of a Medal ftruck with the Legend of this Ifland,
on the Reverfe whereof is a Bacchus, holding in his Right Hand a Bunch
of Grapes, and a Thyrfus in his left ; the Head is of Antoninus Pius.

The

;:;

ipn

nJ.x.

Taj.-jyz. .;■.

I 1

Defcription of the IJland of T'mos. 273

The Medal M. Spon bought here is more antient ; on one fide is the Lett.VIII-
Head of Jupiter Hammon, and on the other a Bunch of Grapes. They <**~t'iiS*'
fow but little Wheat in this Ifland, tho a great deal of Barley.

THE Fig-Trees of Tinos are very low and branchy : the Olives come
up very well, but there's not many of 'em ; they fetch their Wood and
Sheep from Andros. The Country is agreeable and well water'd with
Springs, which occafion'd the Antients to call it Hydruffa, as they did Steph.
mod of the Iflands abounding with Springs : we took notice before, that
it went by the name of Snake-IJland, and Hefycbius of Miletus tells us, that Trift- c?m:
Neptune made ufe of Storks to clear the Ifland of 'em ; whether that be two. 2. '
fb or not, 'tis certain no Snakes are now to be feen there.

THE Riches of Tinos confifts at prefent in its Silk; they get 16000
pound weight every year : when we were there, it was worth a Sequin The Seiuin "
per pound ; fometimes it rifes to three Crowns : our Countrymen bought crowns and a
up thegreateft part. Tho the Silk of this place is the belt prepared of**'''
any in Greece, yet is it not fine enough for Stuffs, but very fit for fewing
and to make Ribbands : the Silk Stockings of this Ifland are very good ;
but nothing can compare in beauty with the Gloves which are knit here
for the Ladies. They who ihip off Silk for Venice, pay no Duties of
Export ; they give Security to pay the Duties, if it mall be difcover'd
that the Silk was carry'd to any other place : the reafon is, this Commo-
dity paying the Duties of Import at Venice, it would in fuch cafe pay
twice in the Territories of that Republick.

THE Fortrefs of Tinos is on a Rock that overlooks the Country, and
is ftronger by Nature than Art ; the Guard of it is committed to fourteen
ihabby Soldiers, (even of them are French Deferters : we counted about
forty Brafs Cannon here, and two or three Iron. The beft People of the
Ifland dwell here, tho there are not above 500 Houfes, which are much
incommoded by the North-Wind, as cutting as at Paris. The Provedi-
tore's Palace is a forry Building : it is impoflible for any Marble to con-
tinue long here, becaufe of the continual Moifture occafion'd by the
Fogs, and the Chinks of the Terraces. The Jefuirs are well lodg'd ; but
their Church is too little to hold one half of their Votaries. Father Pr.u
ti, Superiour of the Houfe, gave us a genteel Reception, and we had the
pleafure to dine with the Fathers Forefii, Qa;nutty and Federic. His Exccl-
Vol. I. N n lency,

274

A Vo r A g e into the Levant.1

lency, whom we waited on to pay our Refpe&s to him, invited us like-
wife to dinner, and offer'd us Guards to attend us. M. Antonio Betti, one
11 Poi-go. of the moft noted Lawyers of Tinos, lent us his Houfe in the !, Suburbs
without the Fortrefs, where there are not above 150 Houfes ; but then you
have free Egrefs and Regrefs at any hour, whereas the Gates of the For-
trefs are ihut early, and open'd late.

BESIDES the Fortrefs of St. Nicole, the chief Villages of this
Illand are,

II CampOj

roughs, viz. Pyr-

Comiadot

Meffl,

11 Terebadoj

gos, Vacalado, Co-

Arnado,

Muofulu]

Lotra,

zonari, Bernarda-

Pergado,

Stignij

Lazaro,

do and Platia ;

Cazeradot

Potamia,

Peraftra,

Cijlernia,

Caticado,

Cacro,

Cumij

Cardiani,

Srnordea,

Triandaro,

Carcado,

Difado,

Cozonaraf

DouiCaJlelli,

Cataclifma,

Mondado,

Tripotamo,

Diocarea,

Aitofolia,

Majlro-mercato,

Cigalado,

Cica!adaf

Cbilia,

Micradoy

Agapi,

ScUvo-corhy

Oxomeria, con-

Carea,

Volacosj

Croby

taining 5 Bur-

Filipado,

Fa!Iatadof

Monajterio.

THE Proveditore's Pofl does not bring him in above 2000 Crowns,
and therefore at Venice they look on it as a Place of Mortification : hej
has the Tenth of all Wares, except Silk, for which he has about three
Crowns every Hundred-weight, if it be bound for any place 6efideS:
Venice ; otherwife, nothing at all. f

THE Bilhop ofTinos has 500 Crowns a year fettled Income, and 200
Crowns the Emoluments of his Church ; his Clergy too are a notable
Body, and amount to above 1 20 in number. The Greeks have full 200 Pa-
pas, iubjed to a Protopapas ; but they have never a Bifhop of their Commu-
nion, and in many things are dependent on the Latin Bifhop : a Greek
can't be a Priefl till this Bifhop has examin'd him. After the Candidate
has upon Oath acknow ledg'd the Pope and the Apoftolick Roman Church,
the Latin Bifhop gives him his DimifTory Letter in cafe he be 25 Years
old ; then he is confecrated by fome Greek Bifhop from an adjacent Ifland,

to

u/.x.

-o

cm?men, ofl/u Isle of^^^

Defcription of the Ifland of Tinos. 27$

to whom he allows ten or twelve Crowns for his Voyage. On the Day of Lett. VIII.
Confecration, the new Prieft gives three pound of Silk to the Provedi- v-^~v~s^>
tore, the like to the Latin Biihop, and a Crown and a half to the Proto-
papas who had given his Atteftation as to his Morals.

IN all Proceflions, and Ecclefiaflical Functions, the Latin Clergy
have the precedence : whenever the Greek Priefts enter the Latin
Churches in a Body, they uncover their Heads according to the cuf-
tom of the Latins, which they do not in their own Churches. When
Mais is faid in prefence of both Bodies of Clergy, after the Latin Sub-
deacon has fang the Epiftle, the fecond Dignitary of the Greek Clergy
fings it in Greek ; and when the Latin Deacon has fung the Gofpel, the
firft Greek Dignitary, or the Chief of the Priefts, fings likewife the Gof-
pel in Greek. In all the Greek Churches of the Ifland, there's one Altar
for the Latin Priefts ; they have full liberty in the Greek Church to preach
on any Controverfial Subjects between them and the Latins.

IN the Latin Churches, none but fimple Chaplains are amovable at
pleafure of the Bifhop. One Nuncio Vafielli, a Surgeon of Malta, having
acquired an Eftate at Tinos, and being without Iffue of his own, adopted
the Recolet Friars, and built them a Church and Convent in the Coun- Zoccolamf.
ay : thele Fathers are exceedingly beloved, but they have not many
Houfes in the Levant.

THE Wives of Citizens and Peafants are drefs'd after the Venetian
nanner : the other like the Candiot Women.

AS for what concerns the Hiftory of this Ifland, your Lordfhip knows
t is the fble Conqueft remaining to the Venetians, of all that they won
Imder the Latin Emperors of Conjlantinople. Andrew Gijci, from whom
S delcended the Sieur Janachi Giz,i, whom you have made Coniul of this
fland and that of Mjcone, fubdu'd Tinos about the Year 1207. and the
iepublick has enjoy'd it ever fince, in fpite of the Turks. It was in-
ked very near being taken by that Barbarojfa, who in 1537 reduced
dmoft all the Archipelago for Solyman II. Andrea Morojini fays it furren-
lei'd without flriking ftroke, of which being fbon after afhamed, they
ent to the Proveditore of Candia for Succours, with whofe help they
liove out their new Matters. They don't tell the Story exactly in the
ame manner at Ttnas : Barbarojfa, they tell you, fo ftraitned the Gari-

N n 2 ton,

aj6 ^Voyage into the Levant.

fon, that they beat a parley ; but the Gentry perceiving none but the
Inhabitants of the Towns of Arnado, Triandaro, and Doui Cajtelli, dit
pos'd to capitulate, fell upon the Turks fo vigoroufly, they were forced
to raife the Siege : they add, that the Soldiers of the Garifon, in their
fury, blew up the Officer whom the Captain-Baihaw had fent to regulate
the Articles of Capitulation.

EVER fince, by way of reproach to the Inhabitants of thefe three
Villages, the firft of May the Proveditore accompany'd with the Peafants
and Feudatories of the Republick, follow'd by the Militia with the Stan-
dard of St. Mark, marches on horfeback to the Church on the Mountain
of Cetro ; and there after thrice crying aloud, St. Mark for ever f there is
great firing of fmall Arms : then they go to dancing, and conclude with
a Banquet. The Feudatories who fail to appear at this Ceremony, are
fined a Crown the firft time ; and Jofe their Fiefs for ever, if they make
default three times.
snpfiem. An- LEVNCLAVIVS lays, that in 1570, the Emperor Selim fent to
nai. Tore. demand of the Senate of Venice the Reftitution of the Ifle of Cyprus ;
and on his refufal, Pialis Captain-Baihaw made a Defcent at Tinos, where
Hid Venet. he put all to fire and fword. Morofini lays, that in the fame Year the
Turks laid vigorous fiege to the Fortrefs of Tinos ;. that Eva Mujlapha
landed 8000 Men there, and that this was done at the requeft of the
Andrians ; but it mifcarry'd, becaufe the Proveditore Paruta had made
fuch preparation to receive 'em, that the Turks were conftrain'd to raife
the fiege and be gone, after having burnt the faireft Villages of the Ifland.
Two years after, they ravaged it the third time, under the command of
Cangi Alii*

T H O the Venetians have no regular Troops in this Ifland, yet in cafe
of an Alarm they can at the firft fignal get together above 5000 Men :
each Village maintains a Company of Militia, furnifh'd with Arms at
the Prince's charge, and frequently mufter'd and exercis'd. In the laft
War Mezomorto the Captain-Bafhaw wrote to the Proveditore, the Gen*
try, and the Clergy of the Ifland, that he would deftroy Man, Woman,
and Child, unlefs they paid him the Capitation-Tax : he was told, he
might come and fetch it; and when he appear'd with his Gallies, the
Proveditore Moroy a good Soldier, march'd out of the Intrenchments

of

Defer iption of the Ifland of Tinos. 277

of St. Nicolo at the head of a thoufand Men, who with their brisk Lett.VIIL.
firing prevented the Bafhaw's landing, andfenthis Gallies packing. To ^-'~v^-'
make a Conqueft of Tinos, there needs no more than to amufe the
Troops at St. Nicolo while a Defcent is carrying on at Palermo, the beft Palermo » de-
Port of the Ifland to the North : thefe Troops, which might ruin the ruLjfOfc.
Country, and eafily get Subfiftence from Andros, would foon flarve the £™h}™"'/J 4
Fortrefs, the only Bulwark of the Ifland ; for St.. Nicolo is open on fort °f sliiP-
every fide.

THE Badnefs of the Weather hmder'd our Simpling at Tinos; yet
we took notice of fbme fine Plants, among others that which yields the
Manna of Perjia : but we could not go fee the other Curiofities of the
Ifland, fuch as the Cavern of Eolus, the Damfels Tower, the Relicks of
Neptune's Temple, the Madona Cardiani ; happy that we had crofs'd the
Canal of Mycone, where we arriv'd not without danger of being overfet.
This confirm'd us in the Sentiment of thofe who fancy'd the Archipelago
was call'd by the Antients the JEgean Sea, becaufe the.leaft Blaft of Wind *Aj£...
fets the Waves a dancing like fo many Goats, as has been faid before*

WE fhall clofe this Letter with the Geographical Statioa we made
from the top of the Fortreis of Tinos.

Joura Weft

Syra South-Weft.

Andros between the North- Weft and North-North- Weft.

Faros South.

Delos between the South-South-Eaft and the South.

Scio between the North-Eaft and the NorthrNorth-Eaft

Cape Carabouron North-EafL

Scala-nova Eaft-North-Eaft.

Samos between the Eaft and Eaft-North-Eaft,

Nicaria Eaft.

fourni Eaft-South-Eaft..

Mycone South-Eaft.

Jmorgo between the South-Eaft and South-South-Eaft.

Naxia between the South-South-Eaft and the South.

I am, &c»

LET.

(278)

LETTER IX.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,

Secretary of State, &c.

...

Mlf.LoRD,

Defection of |p||§||i H E Hiftory of Scio is too voluminous to be brought into the
tl1JlZt-I WhHm compai's of a Letter : all that I ihall therefore do at prefenr.

scio,' Metdin, sgglj X § f comPais °$ * Letter : all that I ihall therefore do at prefent,
Tenedos, and ||JlLJ|§ is to entertain you with what has occurr'd there in our days.

as likewife with a plain Defcription of the Ifland.
ANTONIO Z^tAO, Captain-General of the Venetian Army, came
before the Xown of Scio on the 28th of April 1694, with 14000 Men;
and began to attack the Caflle towards the Sea, the only Place of Re-
fiftance throughout the Country : it held out but five days, tho defended
by ScoTurks, and fupported by above 1000 Men well arm'd, that might
throw themfelves into it without the lead oppofition to the Land- fide
Next Year, Tebr. 1 o. the Venetians loft it with the fame eafe they had ta-
'A/ Nmm 'o/- ken it, and precipitately abandon'd it after the Overthrow of their Naval
libTi'.' ' Army in the Iflands of Spalmadori, where the Captain-Bafhaw Mezomorto
Thucyd. lib. g. commancied the Turkt[h Fleet. Xhe Xerror was fa great in Scio, they kft
behind 'em their Ammunition and Cannon ; the Xroops ran away in dif-
order, and 'tis at this day a common Saying in the Ifland, Xhat the Sol-
diers took every Fly to be a Xurbant.

XHE Turks enter'd it as a conquer'd Country ; but the Greeks very
artfully threw all the blame on the Latins, tho they had no hand in the
Irruption of the Venetians. Xhey hang'd four of the mofl eminent Per-
fons of the Latin Permafion, and who had honourably bore the chief Of-
fices;

Defer iption of the Ijland of Scio. 279

fices ; Pierre Jujiiniani, Francefco Drsgo Burgbefi, Domenico StelLi Burgbefi, Letter IX.
Giovanni Cafielli Burgbeji. The Latins were forbid to wear Hats ; they v-^'V^-^
were alfo obliged to get iliaved, quit the Genoefe Habit, light from their
Horle at the City -Gate, and refpectfully falute the meaneft Muffulman :
the Churches were pull'd down, or turn'd into Mofques ; the Latin Bi-
fliop Leonardo Babarini, and above fixty of the belt Families, follow'd
the Venetians to the More a, where died this Bilhop fome time after he had
been prefented to a new Bilhoprick : the Sufpicion which the Turks had
conceiv'd of him and the Latins favouring this Expedition, was increas'd
by the Marks of Efteem the Venetians fhew'd this Prelate. Thefe poor
Latins, who, at the mitigation of the Greeks, are every day teaz'd with
frelh Dilputes, take all very patiently, and ailifl very devoutly at Divine
Service m the Frencb Vice-Conful's Chappel, which is a very large one
and well ferv'd.

THE publick Exercife of the Catholick Religion was the moil valua-
ble Privilege the Sciots enjoy'd,' through the means of the Kings of
France ; but it has been taken away under colour of Rebellion : Divine
Service was perform1 d there with the lame Ceremonies as in the heart of
Chrijlendom it felf. The Priefts bore the holy Sacrament to the Sick in
full liberty at Noon-day : the ProceiTion of Corpus-Cbrifii was made with
the utmoft Solemnity 3 the Clergy walking in their proper Habits under
Canopies, and bearing Centers in their hands : in fine, the Turks uled to
call this Ifland Little Rome. Befides the Churches in the Country, the
Latins had feven in Town : the Cathedral is converted into a Molque,
as alfo the Church of the Dominicans ; the Church of the Jefuits dedi-
cated to St. Anthony, is turn'd into an Inn ; thole of the Capuchins and
the Recolets, our Lady of Loretto and that of St. Anne, are pull'd down.
The Capuchins had alfo within 500 paces of the Town the Church of
St. Koch, where they ufed to bury the French ; but it has ihared the fame :
Fate with the reft. The Country-Churches were Sa Jofefb, two miles
diftance from the Town ; Our Lady of the Conception, two miles and a
half; St. James, a quarter of a mile ; the Madona, a mile and a half; the:
Madona of Eliflja, two miles and a half; St. John, half a mile.

THE Latin Fathers hadlikewife liberty to fay Mafs in ten or twelve
Greek Churches ; and fome Gentlemen had Chappels in their Country—

Houfes.

280 ^Voyage into the Levant

Houfes. The Bifliop had an allowance of 200 Crowns from the Pope,
befides confiderable Per qui fires. There are ftill at Scio 24 or 25 Priefts,
without reckoning the Religious of the French and Italian Nations, who
have loft their Convents. After Scio was taken, the Turks afTefs'd the
Priefts to the Capitation-Tax ; but M. de Riants, Vice-Conful of France
got 'em exempted : the Nuns are not cloifter'd here, any more than in
the other parts of the Levant ; the principal are of the Order of St. Fran-
cis or St. Dominick, both under direction of the Jefuits.

THE Gre<?& Bifhop is in very good Circumftances ; he has above 3 00
Churches in Town, and the whole Ifland is full of Chappels : the Greek
Monasteries tnere enjoy large Revenues ; that of St. Minas confifts of fifty
Caloyers, and that of St. George of about twenty five : the raoft confidera-
>j=tf^tf,N*w ble is Neamoni, that is to lay, New Solitude, fituated within five miles of
the Town ; we went thither the fifth of March 1701. This Convent
pays 5 00 Crowns to the Capitation : it has 150 Caloyers, who never eat
Together but on Sundays and Holy-days ; the reft of the Week they pro-
vide for themfelves as well as they can, the Houfe allowing 'em no-
thing but Bread, Wine, and Cheefe : fuch of 'em as have wherewithal,
live voluptuoufly, and keep their Horfes. This Convent is very large,
and looks more like a Town than a Religious Houfe ; it is faid to pofTefs
an eighth part of the Revenue of the whole Ifland, and has coming in
above 50000 Crowns a Year Penny-Rent. Over and above the conti-
nual Acquifitions by way of Legacies, there's not a Caloyer but helps to
enrich it; they not only pay down 100 Crowns for their Admiflion, but
at their death they muft give all they are worth either to the Convent or
fbme of their Kindred, who can't inherit above a Third of it ; nor that
unlefs he becomes a Member of the fame Religious Community : thus
have they found the Secret of hedging in the whole. The Convent is
on a little Hill well manured, but very lonely, amidft huge Mountains'
very difagreeable to the View.

THO the Church is dark, yet it is reckon'd one of the belt in all
the Levant ; it is intirely Gothick, except the Moulds for the Arches :
the Paintings are fo horribly done, they'd frighten ye, in fpite of the
Gilding they are loaded with ; each Saint's Name is put at the bottom,
left you Jhould miftake him for his Neighbour. The Emperor Conftanttne

* Mono-

Defcrijption of the IJland of Scio. 28 r

Monomchm, who, as the Monks told us, caused this Church to be Letter IX.
built, is painted there, with his Name to it. The Columns and Cha- U6?"V",*J
picers are Jafper, of the growth of the Country, but clumfily difpos'd ;
the Stone has no manner of Luftre : there's enough of it about this
Monaftery, but that which is employ'd in this Church, was dug out
of the antient Quarries of the Ifland hard by the Town. Strabo has A*^' , ,
taken notice of thefe Quarries, and Pliny lays the firft Tafper was difco- <™ ^ a*™-
ver'd there : when thefe Walls were raifing, Cicero happening to be there, ^fsf^bi*
they fhew'd him this Stone as a Curiofity; he told 'em, it was a beau- ^ber,iGe°s-
tiful Stone, but it would be much more fo, if it came from Tivoli r there- Multo, ;'»$«//,
by infmuating, that they would be Matters of Rome if they had Tivoli, ™ SKST'
or that their Stone would be more efteem'd if it were far fetch'd. In aUlaPidefecifl«is<
likelihood it was here that Cicero was inform'd of a Satyr's Head found in chiomm
in thefe Quarries, naturally defcribed on one of thefe Stones. aXffo'capui*

THE Inhabitants of Sao agree that their Ifland is 120 miles about: «"**■■**■

~ - Ck. de Dnm.

Strabo makes it but 900 Stadia^ that is, 1 12 miles and alhalf ; Pliny mounts
it to 1 25000 paces. 'All this may be, true; for befides that the difference
of thefe Meafures is no great matter, the mealiiring the Circumference of
an Ifland is the leaft ex act Method for finding its dimenfions, becaufe of
the Inequality of the Cqafts, which moft commonly are only guefs'd at,
The Ifland of Scio ftretches from North to South-; but it is narrower to-
wards the middle, terminated to the South by ' Cabo Maftico ox* Cato/neria, ■ An. ii n0-
and to the North by that of > Jpanomeria. The Town of Scio and/e Cam- ^j^"' Suab-
t>o are about the middle Eafterly on the edge of the Sea : this Town is *' 'Lower part
large, delightful, and the belt-built of any in the Levant ; the Houfes are fLLf^'
beautiful and commodious, the Roof terminates in Timber- Work cover'd »/'& $*»*•
with either flat or ridge Tiles : the Terraces are well cemented, and 'tis
slain the Sciots have retain'd the Gexoefe Way of Building, that Italian
People having embelifh'd all the Towns of the Eaft, where they once
ettled. To conclude, after we had fpent: a Twelvemonth in the Ar.cbi-
->elago, andfaw nothing but Mud-Houfes, the Town of Scio look'd like a
Jewel, tho not very lightfome, and paved with Flint-Stones like our
Towns in Provence : the Venetians in the laft War beautify'd Scio, by le-
velling the Houfes about the Cattle, where is now a fine Efplanade.

Vol.I. Oo THIS

282 ^Voyage into the Levant.

THIS Caftle is an old Citadel built by the Genoefe on the edge of the
Sea, it can batter the Town and the Port ; but there's one part of the
Town by which it feems to be commanded : 'tis faid there are 1400 Men
in Garifon ; there ihould be 2000, in proportion to its Circuit. 'Tis de-
fended by round Towers, and an indifferent Ditch : within it there's no-
thing but Gutters of Houfes inhabited only by Mufiulmans, or the Latin
Gentry, as appears from the Coat- Armour of the Jujtiniani, Sec. fet up
in many places. The Turks are every day repairing the Damage done to
their Houfes by the Venetian Bombs \ they have likewife built a neat
Mofque.

THE Port of Scio is the Rendevouz of all Shipping that goes either
up or down ; that is, either to Confiantinople, or from thence into Syria
Rer. Geog. and Egypt : yet is it none of the belt Harbours, tho Strabo fays it can
hold a Fleet of fourfcore Ships. At prefent there's only a fbrry Mole,
built by the Genoefe^ form'd by a Jettee level with the Surface of the Wa-
ter ; the Entrance is narrow and dangerous by reafbn of the Rocks,
which are but . juft cover'd with Water, and could hardly Be avoided,
were it not for the Light-houfe fet upon the Rock of St. Nicholas-. We
left in this Port feven Turkijh Gallies and three Tripoli Men of War : ge-
nerally there remains here a Squadron of Gallies.
'h # jiwwis* A S for the Country, Athen&ut had good reafbn to call it a mountainous
^f^stv^i. rugged Ifland ; and yet at that time thefe Mountains were render'd more
Athen. Deipn. agreeable by the Woods, whereas they are now very bare: yet infbme:
places there are abundance of Orange, Citron, Olive, Mulberry, Myr-\
tie, Pomegranate-Trees, without reckoning Maftiek and Turpentine/
The Country does not want for Corn ; but it not yielding a fufficient'
quantity, they fetch it from time to time from the Terra-firma : and for
this reafon the Chriftian Princes could not long keep this Ifland, if they
were at war with the Turks. Cantacu&enus reports, that Bajazet ftarv'd all
the Iflands, by prohibiting Corn to be carry'd to 'em : it would be diffi-
cult to maintain a Settlement in the Archipelago, without being in pof
feffion of the Morea or Candia, to fupply Provifions. The Town of
Gefme, which fbme will have to be the antient Town of Erjtbrea, ufed to
furnifh Scio with Corn; the Fertility of Jfia is incredible: Gefme is over
againfl Scio, on this fide Cape Carabouron.

AS

Tbefcription of the //land of Scio. 283

AS for Wine, Scio has enough and to fpare; it is pleafant and ftoma- Letter IX.
chical, quantities are exported to the neighbouring Iflands. Theopompus Ddpn^Ub^
in Athen&us fays it was Oenepion the Son of Bacchus that taught the Sciots
the Culture of the Vine ; that the firfl Red Wine was drank here, and
that the Inhabitants fhew'd their Neighbours how to make Wine. Virgil £,n"°^j™
and Horace had no averfion to the Wines of Scio : St rah, who fpeaks of this A™'fa
*em as the bell: Wines in Greece, extols particularly one part of the Ifland 5. wrf. 7if*
oppofite to that of Pfyra, or Pfara acthey now-adays pronounce it ; and H ,Ae««»* m
Pfara has nothing elfe but this Liquor to make it felf known by in the <ywV4"«*
Levant. Not long ago the Troops of Mezomcrto deftroy'd the Vineyards fj^™t*fv'
of Antipfara, which likewife was wont to produce great quantities ofGe°g. lib. 3,
Wine. Pliny often ipeaks of the Wines of Scio, and quotes Varro, theHift'Nat>
moft Learned of the Romans, to prove that they ufed to prefcribe it at lib- J* caP- 7*
Rome in Stomachical Cafes. Varro likewife reports, that Hortenfius left
above 10000 Pieces of it to his Heir. C<efar regaled his Friends with it, Cxfa. Epulo
in his Triumphs and Sacrifices to Jupiter and the other Deities : but At he- ^ n ™"b u
tjxus defcends more circumftantially into the Nature and Qualities of the
Wines of Scio; they help, he fays, Digeftion, they fatten, they are
wholefome, and exceed all other Wines in Delicioufhefs of Tafte, efpe-
cially thofe about Ariufa.

AT Scio they plant their Vines on the Hills, and cut the Grapes in
I August, and let 'em lie in the Sun to dry for feven or eight days, after
\ which they prefs 'em, and then let 'em (land in Tubs to work, the Cellar
i being all the while clofe ihut. When they would make the bell Wine,
I they mix among the black Grapes a fort of white one, which finells like
! a Peach-Kernel ; but in making Nectar, fo call'd even to this day, they 'A/ &&**!,
make ufe of another kind of Grape, fomewhat ftiptick, which makes it Avi^l*tn-'
1 difficult to fwallow. The Vineyards moft in efteem are thofe of Mejla, fi,cum* ,
from whence the Antients had their Ne&ar : Mejla is as it were the Ca*
pital of that famous Quarter call'd by the Antients Arioufia.

FROM hence we may eafily comprehend, why we fee in Goltzius Deinfui.G«a
'fome Medals of Scio with Bunches of Grapes for the Imprefs : on others Tab,I5>8ci6,
were reprefented ' Pitchers or Jars fharp-pointed at bottom, and with two • Diota.
Ears at the neck ; this Figure was proper for feparating the Lees, which
precipitated to the point after they had bury'd 'em : then they rack'd off

Oo 2 the

284.

A Voyage into the Levant.

the Wine. But it is not eafy to account for the Reprefentation of a
Sphinx on the Reverfe of theie Medals, unlefs the Sphinx ferv'd the Sciots
for a Symbol, as the Owl did the Athenians.

THERE is not much Oil got in Scio, the bed Crop yields but about
200 Hogfheads ; each Hogftiead weighing 400 Oques : the Oque at Scio
is but three Pound two Ounces. Our Countrymen get a good deal of
Honey and Wax off of this Ifland ; but the moft confiderable Mer-
chandize is their Silk : of this they make, one year with another, 6cooo
MafTes, according to their way of reckoning j that is, 30000 Pounds, the
Mafs weighing half of our Pound. Almoft all this Silk is ufed in the
Ifland in the Manufactures of Velvet, Damask, and other Stuffs, defign'd
for Afia, Egypt, and Barbary : ibmetimes they mix Gold and Silver in
thefe Stuffs, according to the Fancy of the Workers or Merchants. Eve-
ry Pound of Silk pays at the Cuftom-Houfe four Timins, that is, twenty
pence ; in 1700, it fold for 35 Timins the Pound: the Buyer pays the
Cuflom. The Turks and French pay 3 per C ent. for all the Commodities
of the Ifland : the Greeks, the Jews, and the Armenians pay 5 per Cent.
Hfty Purfes. Thefe Duties are farm'd at 25000 Crowns, payable to the Chief Trea-
surer of Constantinople.

THE other Wares of the Ifland are Wool, Cheefe, Figs, and Maffick:
the Traffick of Wool and Cheefe is not fo confiderable as that of Figs;
befides what are fpent in making Brandy, they fend away great quanti-
ties of 'em to the neighbouring Iflands. Thefe Figs they rear by Capri-
fication ; but to preferve 'em they are forced to oven 'em, where they
lofe their tafte. They have no Salt-pits in Scio ; they fetch their Salt
from Naxia or Fochia.

BEFORE we fpeak of the Maffick, we muff obferve that the Towns
of the Ifland are diftinguifh'd into three ClafTes ; namely, thole del Campo,
thole of Apanomeria, and thofe where they plant Lentisk-Trees, from
whence the Maffick in Tears is produced. The Villages del Campo, or
thofe in the Neighbourhood of the Town, are BaJilionica,Thymiana, Char-
kios, Neocorio, Berber -ato, Zjphia, Bdtiti, Daphnona, Caries, and Petrana ;
this laft almoft empty.

THE Villages of Apanomeru are St. George, Lithilimiona, Argoui,
where Charcoal is made, Anobato, Sieroanta, Piranca, Purperia, Tripez,

St.

Defer iption of the IJland of Scio. 285

St.Helene, Caronia, Kjramos, Aleut opoda, Amarca, Fit a, Cambiay Viki, A- Letter IX.

malthos, Cardamila, Pytios, Majatica, Volijfo, where 'tis faid they can fen- ^-'v"^-'

fibly difcern the Sea to boil ; peradventure, not unlike thofe Bubblings

of hot Water in Milo. Spartonda is another Village in the fame Quarter, T< vt**tvAur

at the foot of Mount Pelince, the higheft Mountain in all the Ifland, and

now known by the name of Spartonda : on its top is built the Chappel T» °eg ™f

of St. Elijah, hard by an excellent Spring ; there's the Ruins of no body

knows what old Caftle fituated on the fame Mountain. Near the Village 2«/&f« k*-

of Calantra there are feveral hot Springs.

THE Lentisk-Tree Villages are Calimatia, Tholopotami, Merminghi,
Dhidhinta, Oxodidhima, Paita, Cataraffi, Kjni, Nenita, where's the fa-
mous Chappel tof St. Michael, Vounos, Flacia, Patrica, Calamoti, Armoglia,
where they make Stone-Pots, Pirghi, Apolychni, Elimpi, Elata, Vejta7
Mejla in the renown'd Arvifian Field.

ALL the Lentisk-Trees belong to the Grand Signior, and they can't
be fold but under condition that the Purchafer pay the lame quantity of
Maflick to the Emperor : generally the Land is Ibid, and the Trees
referv'd.

THESE Trees are very wide fpread and circular, ten or twelve foot
tall, confuting of feveral branchy Stalks, which in time grow crooked ;
the biggefl Trunks are a foot diameter, cover'd with a Bark greyilh, rug-
ged, chapt : the Branches are fubdivided into variety of Boughs laden
with Leaves, confiding of divers Couples rang'd on a Slip hollow'd gut-
ter-wile, two inches long, and a line broad. The Leaves are difpos'd in
three or four Couples on each fide, about an inch long, narrow at the
beginning, pointed at their extremity, half an inch broad about the
middle. From the Junctures of the Leaves grow Flowers in Bunches like
Grapes: the Fruit too grows like Bunches of Grapes, in each Berry
whereof is contain'd a white Kernel. Thefe Trees blow in May ; the
Fruit does not ripen but in Autumn and Winter. *

THEY plant a great many Lentisks in Provence and Languedoc, but
their Leaves are not fo large as in the Levant. Gajfendus obferves, that via Pefrefa
about Toulon they yield fome Grains of Maftick, if they are cut: all
things confider'd, it is not the Culture makes 'em productive of Maftick,
as is commonly thought j even in Scio there are many that yield hardly

any

2 8 6 .//Voyage into the Levant.

any thing : fuch Stocks therefore as plentifully fhed their nutritious Juice
by Incifions, mull be preferv'd and propagated. They fometimes prune
'em by Moon-light in Otfober. Perhaps if they made Incifions in thefe
Trees in Candia, in the Wands of the ArcbipeUgc, and in Provence too,
fbme of 'em would yield as much Maftick as thefe of Scio. How many
Pines do we fee in the fame Forefts which fcarce afford any Rofin, tho
they are the fame Species with thofe that give a great deal : the Struc-
ture of the Roots more or lefs compact, may be the caufe of this
difference.

THEY begin to make Incifions in thefe Trees in Scio the firfl ofJu-
gust, cutting the Bark crofs-ways with huge Knives, without touching
the young Branches : next day the nutritious Juice diftils in fmall Tears
which by little and little form the Maftick Grains ; they harden on the
ground, and are carefully fvvept up from under the Trees. The height
of the Crop is about the middle of Augutf, if it be dry ferene Weather •
but if it be rainy, the Tears are all loft.

LIKEWISE towards the end of September the fame Incifions furnifh

Maftick, but in lefler quantities : they fift it to clear it of duft, which

Hicks fo faft to the Faces of thofe employ'd, that they are forced to uie

Oil to wafh it off! There fometimes comes an Aga from Conjlantiuople to

receive the Maftick due to the Grand Signior, or elfe they appoint the

Cuftom-houfe Officers of Scio to receive it ; who go to three or four of

the chief Towns before named, and give notice to the Inhabitants of the

reft, to bring in their Contingent : all thefe Villages together owe 286

Chefts of Maftick, weighing 1 00,025 Gques. The Cadi of Scio takes three

Chefts each weighing eighty Oques, one Cheft goes to him that keeps

the Accounts ; the Officer at the Cuftom-houfe that weighs the Maftick

takes a handful out of each Man's parcel ; the Garbler, or Sifter, likewife

has as much for his pains. If any Perfon is caught carrying Maftick to

fuch Towns as do not plant the Tree, they are fentenced to the Gallies

and ftript of all they are worth. Such of the Peafants as gather not

enough Maftick to pay their Quota, buy or borrow of their Neighbours ;

and thofe who have more than enough, keep it for the next year, or fell

it privately. Sometimes they compound with the Cuftom-houfe Officer,

who takes it at one Piafter the Oque, and fells it for two or two and a half.

* The

Defer iption of the Ifland of Scio. 287

The Planters of the Lentisks pay but half the Capitation, and wear the Letter IX.
white Safh round their Turbant as well as theTurks. •*fDr\j

THE Sultanas confume the greateft part of the Maftick defign'd for
the Seraglio : they chew it by way of Amufement, and to give an agree-
able Smell to their Breath, especially in a Morning fading ; they alfo put
fome Grains of Maftick in perfuming Pots, and in their Bread before it
goes to the Oven. Maftick is likewiie beneficially ufed in Diftempers of
the Stomach and the Vrima Vixy to flop Bleeding, and fortify the Gums.

THE Turpentine Harveft is likewife made by cutting crofs-ways with1*'"'''*?*" ? $
a Hatchet the Trunks of the biggeft Turpentine-Trees, from the end of **«« J# x^»
July to October : the Turpentine runs down on flat Stones placed under Diofc. Tib. u
the Trees; they fell it on the fpot for 30 or 3 5 Parats the Oque, that is, caP-9°-
three Pound and a half and an Ounce. The whole Ifland produces not
above 200 Oques: this Liquor is an excellent natural Balfam, afovereignn^^b5"**
Stomachick, and good for provoking Urine ; but care mult be taken not Vm ») T4p-
to give it to Perfons that have the Stone, nor indeed any other Diure- (bi^'ap.'iii*
ticks, which have been found by experience to do hurt rather than good
to fuch Perfons.

THESE Trees grow here without Culture, on the Borders of the

Vineyards, and along the Highway ; their Trunk is as tall as rhat of the

Lentisk, as full of Branches, cover'd with a chapt afh-coIourM Barki

The Leaves grow on a Rib about four inches long, reddifh ; thefe Leaves

ire about two inches long, an inch broad, pointed at both ends, bright

*reen, and have an aromatick Tafte, with fbmewhat of Stipticity^ It is

,vith the Turpentine as with the Lentisk ; that is, fuch Branches as bear

1 Flower, have no Fruit ; and mch as bear Fruit, have generally no

"lower : thefe Flowers grow at the extremity of the Branches towards

he end of April, before there's any appearance of Leaves ; they grow in

:Iufters like Grapes, four inches long. Each Flower has five Stamina^

vhich are not a line long, charg'd at top With Summits, yellowifh, full

)f duft of the fame colour. The Fruit begins with Embryos cluftering

lfo like Bunches of Grapes, three or four inches long, which rife from

he Centre of a Cup confiding of five greeniih pointed Leaves, fcarce a

ine long. Each Embryo is fhining, ileek, light green, oval-pointed;

hey turn afterwards to a Cod, firm, three or four lines lgng, oval, cover'd

with

2 83 ^Voyage into ^Levant.

with an orange-colour'd Skin, foniewhat flefhy, ftiptick, acrid, refinous ;'
the Cod contains a Kernel, flefhy, white, wrapt in a reddifh Coat : the
Wood of the Turpentine is white.

IN time of Peace the Cadi governs the whole Country: in War-time
a Balhaw is fcnt to command the Troops. The Mufti of Conjtantinople
names the Cadi of Scio, (he is a Cadi of 500 Afpers a day, that is, one
of the firft Rank ;) for in Turkj, tho there are no Appointments for thefe
fort of Officers, yet they are diftinguiih'd into feveral honorary ClafTes ;
namely, thofe of 500 Afpers a day, of 400, of 300, of 250: all thefe
Judges Subfiftence ariies from a Fee of 8 or 10 per Cent, out of the Caufes.-
they try. There's no Waivode here, only an Aga-Janizary, who has
under him about 150 Janizaries in time of Peace, and 3 or 400 in War-,
time. In all Scio there are not above iocoo Souls of the Turks, 3000. '
of the Latins ; but 'tis reckon'd there's 100,000 Greeks.

THE Capitation is divided into three ClaiTes in this Ifland ; the

higheft is ten Crowns three Parats, the middlemoft five Crowns three.

Parats, the loweft two Crowns and a half and three Parats ; the three

Parats are for him that gives the Acquittance : Women and Maids pay no

Capitation. In order to diflinguilh who are to pay this Tax, they take

rneafure of their Neck with a String ; then doubling this meafure, they-

put both ends into the Party's mouth, and throw the String over his head,

which if it can get clean through this meafure, the Perfon is fubjecl: to '

the Tax, other wife he is exempt. They pay no Land-Tax, but only fome

arbitrary Imports to clear off the Debts of the City, the Affairs whereof

go through the hands of four new Deputies elected once a year, and eight

Antients : in each Village is chofen two Admin iflrators and four Antients.

'h Ka?^fxi- THE 1 2th of March we went to the North of the Ifland, to fee the

lib'. s.lMi) ' Ruins of an antient Temple five miles from Cardamjla, a Village eighteen

To AeAjlww miles from Scio. beyond Port Dolphin. Cardamyla and the Port Dolphin

ibid. have retain'd their old Names : as for the Temple, 'tis unknown whom

it was confecrated to ; but there are no Vefligia of any flately Edifice.

It was built in an ugly narrow Valley : the Situation of the Place, and the

Paufan.Achak. Amours of Neptune with a Nymph of this Illand, made us fufpect it

was dedicated to that God; for as for the Temple of Apollo, mention'd by

Strabo> it was to the South of the Ifland, and confeauently very far

* from

Defcription of the IJland of Scio. 289

from this. Below this pretended Temple of Neptune, runs a fine Spring Letter IX.'
out of a Rock, arid which perhaps gave occafion of rearing this Edifice ^>"v>^
there : 'tis not likely that this Spring was the Fountain of Helen, in which
Stephens the Geographer lays that Princels was accuftom'd to bathe. The
Cafcade of it is very pretty, ifiuing from a Rock ; but there's no Re-
mains of thofe Marble Steps Ipoken of by M. Thevenot : that Traveller
was doubtlefs mifinform'd, or rather, in that Manufcript whence his chief
Defcription of Scio was taken, they had confounded the Spring of Naos
with the Fountain of Sclavia, which runs on a Marble Bottom in the Es, ,» KfWj
moft delicious Spot of Ground in the whole Ifland, which is fhewn to *kV" .'? ?
Strangers as one of the Wonders of Scio. to. steph.

AS for that other Spring in Scio, which Vitruvius reports to have de- Lib.3. cap. 3.
priv'd of their Senfes whoever drank of it, and for that reafon there
was an Epigram put over it by way of Caution to PalTengers ; we had
fome tranfient Difcourfe concerning it withM. Ammiralli, who hadftudy'd **m\vlt y
at Paru, and at prefent practifes Phyfick with much applaufe in his na- ^"^
tive Country Scio ; he allured us there was no talk now of any luch
Fountain, nor of the Scio-Earth mention'd by Diofcorides and Vitruvius.
'Tis true, Natural Hiflory is what no body in this Country bends their
Minds to : even the old Greek Tongue is very much neglected. M. Am-
miralli, who has tranflated Bourdon's Anatomy into that Tongue ; the
Papas, Gabriel and Clement ; are the three only Perlbns of this Ifland
that underfland it: they highly efteem Budaus's- Greek Letters, andM.Af<?-
nage's Poems in that Tongue.

THIS Ifland has, in times pall, produced very extraordinary Men • Strab. Rer.
Ion the Tragick Poet, Theopompus the Hiftorian, Theocritus the Sophift : Ge0S* lib- 10«
the Sciots pretend too, that Homer was their Countryman, and to this
very day fliew the School he went to ; it is at the foot of Mount Epos on
the Sea-fide, four miles from the Town : it is a flat Rock, wherein has
been hew'd a fort of round Bafon, twenty foot diameter, the Edge made
lb as to fit on • out of the middle of this Bafon arifes a piece of a Rock
cut like a Cube or Dye, about three foot in height, and two foot eight
inches broad, on the fides whereof were antiently carv'd certain Animals,
now fo disfigur'd there's no knowing 'em, tho fome fancy 'em to bear the
refemblance of Lions.

Vol. I. P p 'TIS

spo A Voyage into the Levant

"tori* mha( ■ T I S difficult to decide what Town Homer was of; he feems to have
fiCw^om*, induftrioufly conceal'd the Place of his Birth; for he drops nor the lead
K^*i!s*-f' **iQt concerning it, in any of his Works. ' Leo Allatius, a very Learned
**p{f> Xl^> Man, a Native of Scio, has taken a great deal of pains to prove him to-
vm. Aui.Geii.be of this Ifland : all things well weigh'd, tho feven renowned Cities
So". Hb!\. contended for the Honour of ' Homerh Birth, 'tis highly probable this
~- Leo Allat. de Great Man was either of Smyrna or Scio. Peradventure the School raen-
tion'd above, ferv'd for a Study ing-plaee to fuch as were defirous to get
his Verfes by heart ; for all Authors agree, the Homerides were Inhabi-
tants and Citizens of this Ifland : they are faid to defcend from Homer ;.
and in this Superftition 'tis poffible they caus'd this Rock to be cut, to*
ferve for a School to young People that were willing to inflrucl; themfelves
in the Works of Homer, as being the Prince of Poets, an excellent Hifto-^
rian, and moft complear Geographer : this School therefore may have
been the place where they repeated their Leflons ; the Matter fitting om
the Cube, and the Scholars on the Rim of the Bafbn.
Lib. i. contra NEVER did any Work pafs through (6 many hands as that of Ho-
pimmch. in mer- tyfefius fays,, that his Verfes were preferv'd by way of Tradition
Lycurg. from rne firft moment they appear'd, and that without writing 'em down*

Herac.dePolit. , i L l r U J t n

.*Han. verf. they were commonly got by heart :: Lycurgits,. the renowned Legiflator

wp!'i4. *3' °^ Lacedemon, found all thefe pieces in Ionia, from whence he brought

'em into Peloponnefus. 'Twas cultomary to repeat thefe Parcels of Homer

Laerun Solon. , , m <. t . ■ n r n ^

cic.de Orat. under different names, as we do now-a-days the Airs of our nneit Ope-
Jib. 3. ras . ^ur Solon, Pififiratus, and Hipparchus his Son, pieced 'em together,,

Paufan. in and reduced 'em into two regular Bodies; the Iliad and the Odyflee.
Achaic- .. Ariftotle, by Command of Alexander the Great, revis'd thefe Poems ; nay,,
strab. lib. 13. that Conqueror himfelf would needs affift therein, together with Callifihe-
nes and Anaxarchus. This Edition of Homer's Works was call'd the
***** w3£f Edition of the Casket, becaufe it was lock'd up in a Casket which Alexan-
Plutarch, in jer ufe(j to ]ay uncjer his Pillow a-nights. He afterwards had this Book.

Alex. & Strab. »■ D

ibid. put into a little perfumed Box, adorn'd with Gold, Pearl, and the molt

^in-H,^at' precious Stones.. 3 Zjnodotus of Ephefus, Preceptor of the Ptolemy s, Ara-

\ Suid. tus, Arijlophanes of Byzantium, Ariftarchus of Samothr&ce,, and many other

bright Wits, undertook to reflore to Homer his original Beauties; but

they have made fo many alterations in it, that 'tis faid if Homer were

4-- alive,

I

*

/«v.->r.

T'a.'.a.gj

S.7;'.-!.JJ

ffs/?f,-/i c^fr/tr Isfa/nY cy

|j to

*Defcription of the IJUnd of Srio. 291

alive, he would fcarce know it to be his Work. It muft however be al- Letter IX.
low'd to be the compleateft Piece in its kind that ever was produced *~/"VVj
among the Greeks. Paterculus, according to his ufual cuftom, has in a
few words given it its due praifc : He is the only Poet, fays he, that me-
rits that name ; and what is wonderful, is, there was no Man before him
whom He tould imitate, nor after his death any body to be found that could
imitate Him.

BESIDES Homer's School, they fliew his Dwelling-Houfe, where
lie compos'd mod of his Poems. This Houfe, you may be fure, is in
none of the beft condition ; for Homer lived 961 Years before Chrift. It Mum. o.w.,
Hands in a place which bears the Poet's Name, to the North of the Bpoch" 3°*
Ifland near Voltjfo, calPd Bolijfus by the Author of Homer's Life, and Thu- bSa/ww. Tiw-
cydides. Voltjfo is in the midft of the Arvifian Fields, which fupply'd the Author vit*
Nectar; and perhaps this Liquor was what did not a little help to elevate Homer.
the Poet's Genius. He is reprefented on a Medal of Cardinal Barberinfs Leo Aiiat. de
Collection, fitting on a Chair, holding a Scroll of Writing : the Reverfe Fatria Homer*
is a Sphinx, the Symbol of Scio. Father Hardouin (peaks of a like Me- xiqn.
dal ; M. Baudelot has fbme of Smyrna, with the fame Type, but a difle- smtp-
rent Legend.

TO conclude, 'tis pleafant living at Scio, and the Women there are x»« 'Opmar
better bred than «n the other parts of the Levant. Tho their Drefs looks f /°^X*
odd, yet they have a diftinguifhing Neatnefs. There's good Cheer at Jui.Poii. iib-9»
Scio : the Oyfters they bring from Metelin are excellent ; and Wild-Fowl
they have in great plenty, efpecially Partridge : they are as tame as
Hens. Some about Veffa and Elata breed 'em up with care : in the Morn-
ing they carry 'em into the fields to feek their Meat, like Flocks of Sheep ;
each Family traits its Stock to a common Keeper, who in the Evening
brings 'em back, after he has call'd them in with a Whiftle. If any Owner
has a mind to have his brought home in the day-time, the fame Signal
does the bufmefs, and you fee 'em come without the leafl confufion. I
have feen a Man in Provence, who ufed to lead Droves of Partridges
into the Country, and call 'em to him when he pleated ; he would take
'em up with his hand, put 'em in his bofom, and afterwards difmifs 'em to
pick up a Livelihood with the reft.

P p 2 AS

292 A Voyage into the Levant.

AS for Plants, the Ifle of Sclo produces very fine ones. The two

Species of Leontopetalov, (Lion's-blade) which I have taken notice of in.

the Corollary of Botanick Institutions^ are very common here in certain

places. We obferv'd near the Town a fort of Ariflolochia, (Birthwort)

whofe Flower feem'd to me too extraordinary not to take down the

figure of it.

Ariftoiochia THE Root of this Plant is a foot and a half long, two inches thick,

fubhlrfuevfo- picked at the bottom, hard, woody, crofs'd by a very folid Nerve, yel-

\\o obiongo, i0Wjfh marbled white and red, cover'd with a Bark fleihy, moderately

flore minimo. ' ' * ' J

ctr.i. Rcimft. purple. This Root is accompany'd with a few Fibres, but it is intolera*
bly bitter, and puts out many Stumps or Heads producing whitifh Buds,
ending in Stalks a foot high in the Spring-time ; they afterwards ftretch
to two foot, firm, folid, two lines thick, pale green, rough, gutter'd,
purple at their beginning, and lying along the ground. Thefe Stalks are
adorn'd with a Leaf at each Knot, about three inches long, and two and
a half broad at the BalTs ; which Bafis twirls or is rounded like two Ears,
below which it grows narrower infenfibly, and terminates in an obtule
Point, winch ends in a little ihort Beak. The upper part of the Leaf
is dark green, Alining, veining our into irregular Squares : the under
part is gteenifh, fet off with a very fenfible Nervation. From their Junc-
tures grows a Flower fupported by a Stalk an inch or two long, termina-
ting in an angulous Cup, with fix large Channellings about half an inch
long. Each Flower is crooked like the Letter S, three inches and a half
long. It begins with a Cod eight or nine lines thick, pale green, angu-
lous, which lengthens into a retorted Pipe, half an inch thick, ending
in a huge Mouth almoft oval, eighteen or twenty lines diameter, the
Rims equally round. The Hollow of this Mouth is almofl cover'd with
white Hairs, a line and a half long. The Ground-work thereof is pur-
ple, black, and livid, with fome clearer Spots, and fet off with a large
Rifing in the place where the Mouth begins to contract it felf into a. Pipe :
the Infide whereof is alio purple-colour'd, hairy, as is the Infide of the
Cod, which is pale. At the bottom of this Cod is a Hexagonal Button,
two lines and a half in diameter, fet off with large Stalks, between which
there are Summits which fhed a yellow Duft. This Flower has no Scent
at all ; the whole Plant is bitter.

* THE

• /I'/.J'.

J\,.a a.:?2.

Defcription of the IJland of Metelin. 293

Letter DC.

THE flxong defire we had to feeConftantinople, made us depart from ^*r~sr^*'
Scio the 27th of March on a Turki(b Saick ; the 28th we reach'd C Afire-,
the Capital of the Ifland of Metelin, formerly call'd Lesbos. It is pretty Mt->»n>»V-
plain, from Strabo's Defcription of the two Ports of Mytilene, that Cafiro su.ib. r«.'
was built on its Ruins. This Geographer, and Steph.wus Byzantinus who- e°3' ' ,l3*
often copy'd him, term Mytilene a very large City. Cicero and Vitruvius ^[^-^^%c
fpeak of nothing but its Magnificence ; nor indeed is there any thing Co viuw, lib. 1.
be feen but Stumps of Columns, mod of 'em white Marble, or am-C3P,d*
colour'd ; fome of 'em are fluted direct, others fpiral ; fbme are oval, let
off with Plat-bands like thofe of the Temple of Delos t but thofe of Me-^
telin are not fluted on the fides. Among thefe Ruins 'tis incredible, the
number of Chapiters, Frizes, Pedeftals, Scraps of blind Infcriptions, with »
the word Gymnafiarch up and down.

THIS recall'd to our minds the noted Epicurus, who read publick Lec-
tures at Mytilene at $2 Years of Age, as we are told by Diogenes LaertitU'
Arifiotle refided alio here two Years, according to that Author.. Marcellus^
after the Battel of Pbarfaliar not daring to appear before C&far, retired hi-
ther to fpend theremainder of his days in Study; nor could Cicero prevail*
on him to come to Rome, to experience the Conqueror's [Clemency, 1

MTTILENE has produced Great Men antiently. Pittacus, -one ofr
the feven Sages of Greece, whofe Sentences were written on the Walls of
Apollo's Temple at Delphos, in order to refcue his Country, Mytilene, from/
the Servitude of Tyrants, afTumed the Government himfelf, but fteelyj
refign'd it again to his Fellow-Citizens. The Poet Alc<eus, and Sappho-
whom Strabo calls a Prodigy, were of Mytilene, and lived about the fame:
time. They ftruck Medals at Mytilene in honour of thefe three illuftrious „ „
Perfons 'Tis from thefe Medals we learn that the Name of this Tovvru aakaios. •
mud be written with a y, tho in Str&bo 'tis with an /'. Pittacus is reprefent-. 'o/M/7v,v>^
ed on one fide of one of thefe Medals, and Alctus on the other. M. Spon ^j £ J^Jjft
hascaus'done to be graved, where Sappho is fitting, with a Lyre in hec"'^^7?"'
hand; on the other fide is the Head of Naujicaa, Daughter of Akinous7'nu\ ctpa.
whofe Gardens are fo extol'd by Homer. The Memory of this Towiv^0^'^;
will never be loft among Antiquaries ; the Cabinets of the Curious are fu!lrtore H,e™c!e°

01 ' And on the

of Medals of Mytilene, ftruck with the Heads of. Jupiter,. Apolloy Livia±°th^ fide, h-

Tibe- cikaan. "

294- >£ Voyage into the Levant

Tiberius, Cuius Cafar, Germanicus, Agrippina, Julia, Adrian, Marcus Aa-
relius, Venus, Commodus, Crifpina, Julia Domna, Caracalla, Alexander Se-
verus, Valerian, GeHian, Salouina. Long after Ptttacus, Mytilene, Strabo
fays, produced the Rhetorician Diopbanus ; and in the Age of Auguftus,
Potamon, Lesbode, Crinagoras, and Tbeophanes the Hiftorian, who was fo
well known on account of his Friendlhip with Pompey, whofe glorious
Actions he had a great fhare in.

CASTRO, or the antienr Mytilene, at this time is far inferiour to the
Town of Scio; but the Ifle of Metelm is much bigger than the Ifle of
Scio, and ftretches far towards the North-Eaft. Strabo makes Lesbos to be
137 miles and a half in compafs, and Pliny and Jfidcrus 168 miles, nay
195. We were told there were flill in this Ifland 120 Villages, among
Esgwaf. which is Eriffo, doubdefs the anrient Town of Ereffus, the Birth-place of
Tbeophrajlus and Phanias, the two famed Difciples of Arifiotle. But we had
not time to go to Erijfo^ being only Paflengers in a Turkijfj Bark. Strabo
has fb exactly noted the Situation of the antient Towns of Lesbos, that
'tis no hard matter to find 'em out by perambulating the Country. No-
thing gives more pleafure to a Traveller, than to behold the Birth-places
of Illuftrious Men ; This Ifland has turn'd out a good number of flich.
fiut»rA. de Plutarch writes, that the Lesbians were the greateft Muficians of Greece :
the famous Arion was of Meilrymne, the Ruins whereof to this day exift
here. Terpander, who was the firft that fitted feven Strings to the Lyre
was a Lesbian ; which occafiou'd the Fable of Orpbeus's Head being heard
to fpeak in this I Hand after it was cut off in Thrace, as is ingenioufly ex-
AdVerC537. plain'd by Eufiathius, in his Notes on Dionyfius Alexandrinus. Eujlathius
alfo obferves, that the Ifland was named Mytilene from the Name of the
Rer. Geog. Town. It is plain, Metelin is made of Mytilene. Strabo adds alfb to the
number of the Lesbian Worthies Hellanicus, a celebrated Hiftorian and
C alii as, who made Notes on the Poems of Alctus and Sappho.
AifZ'icw, V SO much for the bright fide of the Lesbians ; now let us turn the ta-
bles, and wefhall find they werefo corrupt in their Morals, that a worfe
thing could not be faid of a Man, than that he lived like a Lesbian. In
Gelt d us there's a Medal which does no great honour to the Ladies of
this Ifland; yet to do juftice to its prefent fiir Inmates, they are not fo
great Coquets as thofe of M'do and Argenttere. Their Drefs is not fo im-

niodeft,

AV^

f&i.x.

Jky-agj. ^7

Dejcription of the IJknd of Metdin/ 295

modefr> tho they expofe their Breads a little too much : fome go into Letter IX.
the other Extreme, and let ye fee nothing of them but the Roundnefs *~*?~**^*j
through a piece of Linen;

THE Soil of Metelin looks to be very good : the Mountains there are Hic wmmrf*
cool, and cover'd with? Wood in many places. The Ifland produces good duces fab um.
Wheat, excellent Oil, the beft Figs in the Ar cbipelago : nor have its Wines q& *'"£ Ir
loft any thing of their antient Reputation. Strabo, Horace, Atbenxus, Elian, Non eatJem
would like 'em full as well now as in their own time. Arifiotle, in the Ago- arbonbus pen-
ny of Death, pronoune'd in favour of the Wine of Lesbos. Upon debating noftris,
about a Perfon to fucceed him in the Lyceum, proper to keep up the Re- 2fa£*3^r*
putation of the Peripatetick School, Menedemus of Rhodes and Theo- £' de PaIm"e
fhrajlus of Lesbos put in for ir. Arijlotle call'd for fome Wine of each-^. 2. betrpu
Kland, and after he had deliberately tafted it, They are both excellent Wines, Utmmque, in-
ery'd he, but this of Lesbos- is moft agreeable of the two ; thereby giving to bonum Pfed°
underfland, that Theophrajlus as far excel'd his Competitor, as the Lesbian ifwiAtfr'l
Wine did that of Rhodes,. Trifianus gives the Type of a Medal of Geta,M- 13. "»m.-
who, according to Spartianus, was a dear Lover of good Wine : the Re- S?^?/
verfe reprefents a Fortune holding in her right hand a Rudder of a Ship,,
and in her left a Cornucopia, with a Bunch of Grapes among other Fruit.
Pliny praHes the Wine of this Iflandj on the Authority of Erafijlratus,
one of the greateft Phyficians of Antiquity.

THE fame Author and If dor us fpeak of the Jafper of Lesbos \ but we
had not leifure to fee it, any more than the Pine-Trees which yield a.
black Pitch, and Planks to build fmall Veffels. Our Captain made us
pay at the Port of Petra, from whence we durft not ftir, left he fhould'
go away and leave us : the T»rki[h Captains make their PafTengers pay
before-hand, and never trouble themfelves afterwards about 'em. Petra.
is a poor Place ; all the pleafure we had, was to drink Coffee at z Turk's
Houfe, who had been long a Slave at Marfeilles^ and who inform'd us con-
cerning the Ports of the Ifland, which areCaftro, or the antient Mytilene,
Port Olivier, Calcni, and Port Sigre.. He allured us there were in the
Ifland many Turks mix'd with the Chriftians of the Greek Rite,. The
Cadi and the Janizary-Aga refide at Cajlro, as alfo the Vice-Conful of
Trance,, who is fent by the Conful of Smyrna. Cajtro is not the only
Port of the Ifland;. Jero, known to the Franks by the Name of Port Oli-
vier

>

296 y^ Voyage into the Levant.

'-5non. vjer, and whofe Entrance is between the Eaft and the ' South-Eaft, is

ieckon'd one of the largeft handfomeft Ports of the Mediterranean. The

1 KaMSw, other Ports of Metelin are Calor/i and Sieve. ' Caloni is the beft of the

apuJCantacuz. °

lib. 2. cap. 30. two, and looks Southward, but you mult leave on the left a Rock Weft-
' %pe#t: ward of it : die Entrance of Port \ Sigre is between the South and
.MsLeJj. 4 South-Weft.

TH E Canal of Lesbos is, according to Strabo and Pliny, feven miles

> 7^ r»0m and a half: at its mouth are the Iflands of Mofconifi, which fpread to the

u^u^rj-nf Coaft of the autient Town of Phocea • fome of whole Inhabitants not

£ib*'ub*il' DrOQ^iug the Perfian Government, came to the Coaft of Provence, and

founded MarfeiUes.

WE fail'dfrom Port Petra the 25 th of March, an hour after Midnight,
and at Break of Day we found our felves in fight of Tenedos. Strabo de-
termines the diftance of thefe two Iflands 62 miles, and Pliny 56 ; they
generally reckon 60, at a medium.

Te-ke dos. TENEDOS has retain'd its Name ever fince the Trojan War : all the
autient Authors agree, that this Ifland, which was wont to be call'd Leu-
copbrys, was call'd Tenedos, from one Tenes or Tennes, who brought a Co-

BibUoth. Hift. jony thither. Diodorus Siculus fpeaks of it like a true Hiftorian : Tennes,
fays he, was illuftrious for his Virtue ; he was Son of Cycnus King of Co-
lone in Troas, and after he had built a Town in the Ifle Leucophrys, he
gave it the Name of Tenedos. He was, during his Life, beloved by his
Subjects, and adored by 'em after his Death ; for they rais'd a Temple,
in which they offer'd Sacrifice to him. Diodorus treats as fabulous whan
the Inhabitants of Tenedos publiih'd concerning him ; but Paujanias and

Phocic. Suidas fpeak of it very ferioufly, 'Tis faid, in lhort, that Tennes was Son

of Cycnus and Proclea, Sifter of Caletor, who was kill'd by A]ax at the
time he attempted to burn the Ships of Protefilaus. After the death of
Proclea, Cytnus marry'd Philonome, who thereby became Stepmother of
Tenne s and Hemithea his Sifter. The Hiftory adds, that this Stepmother
(aw fo many Charms in Tennes, and fo little difpofition to make himfelf
be beloved by her, that flie complain'd to her Husband how her Son )
would have ravifh'd her. Stephanus Byzantinus adds, that the Witnefs
(he produced in proof of her Charge, was a Player on the Flute. Cycnus,

as

;>/.i.

Huj. dfftP-

IfU of TEREDOS

Defcription of the IJland of Tenedos. 297

as much affected with his Wife's Virtue, as incens'd at his Son's Auda- Letter IX-
cioufnefs, caus'd him to be lock'd up in a Cheft, wherein his Sifter He- ^"W-i
mithea would needs accompany him. They were thrown into the Sea,
which caft 'em on the Ifland we are fpeaking of: thefe two charming Per-
fbns were receiv'd with fuch Applaufe, that Tennes was declared King
thereof Some time after, Cycnus, convinced of his Son's Innocence,
took a Refblution to go to Tenedos, and exprefs his Concern for what had
been done : but Tennes, inftead of receiving him, went to the Port,
where with a Hatchet he cut the Cable that faften'd his Father's Ship.-
The Hatchet was not loll : Periclytm, a Citizen of Tenedos, took care to Suid.
fee it carry'd to Delpbos, into the Temple of Apollo ; and the Tened.ia.ns
confecrared two of 'em in the Temple of their City.

THESE Adventures made a noife, and gave birth to two Proverbs :
When any one was minded to reproach a falfe Witnefs, he would lay he
was a Flutenist of Tenedos ; and when any Affair was to be diipatch'd in TtvUiocdstd*
the inftant, they brought in the Hatchet of Tenedos. Arijlotle, cited by j^^".'
Stepbanus Byzantinus, explains the thing in another manner. He lays, ***"*• Suid*
that a King of Tenedos having by an exprefs Law condemn'd Adulterers to
be beheaded by a Hatchet, the firft Example was made in the Perfon of
his own Son : this Geographer affirms, there were reprefented on the
Medals of the Ifland the Heads of the two Lovers back to back, and
on the Reverie the Hatchet with which they were executed. Goltzius
has given a Type of a like Medal. It might be explain'd according to
the Remark of Stephens • but the Conjecture of M. de Boze, perpetual Diflert. on the
Secretary of the Academy Royal of Infcriptions and of Medals, is much Amients. the
happier, and perfectly natural. That Academician, whole Learning out-
flrips his Years, is of opinion that thefe two Heads are of Tennes and
Hemitbea his Sifter : his Thought is conflrm'd by another Medal of the
Cabinet of M. Bwdelot, on which thefe two Heads (back to back) have
a fort of Diadem over them.

M. BAVDELOT, wTho is fruitful in ingenious Conjectures, thinks

one of thefe Heads is that of Jupiter, and the other that of an Amazon,

,who, when thofe Heroines ufed to make Incurfions, had founded fbme

Town in Tenedos. This is not wide of Probability, and the Inhabitants

of this Ifland were perhaps dcfirous to preferve the Remembrance of it

Vol. I. Q_ q on

2?8

A Voyage into the Levant

,

on their Coins ; as did thofe of Smyrna, Ephefus, and many other Towns of
Afia. The Hatchet on the Reverfe makes intirely for M. Baudelofs Opi-
nion; for every body looks on this Inftrument as the Symbol of the.
Amazons. Yec, on the other hand, it has been thought this was the In-
ftrument ufed by the People of Tenedos in their Executions of Criminals, i
To exprefs an unmerciful Judge, 'twas a Saying, according to Suidat I
Tmf)c( fyvv- Such an one is an Advocate of Tenedos* Hatchets were in fo great ufe
«Ss«7jw. in this Ifland, that there ufed to be continually behind the Judge an Offi-
cer bearing a Hatchet, and ready to exercife it on luch as bore falfe wit-
nefs : the King himfelf would lbmetimes be the Executioner of this vk
vere Juftice.

NOTHING has renderM this Ifland more famous in Antiquity, than
Eft in con- the Siege of Troy. Virgil rightly lays, that Tenedos was within fight of
do*, nmiffima that powerful City, and fuppofes that the Greeks conceal'd themfelves in
inoSa dives a Port of tnis Ifland, when they made as if they quitted the Siege. After
opum, Piiami t^e pau 0f Troy, its Circumftances were fo miferable, they were fore'd to
manebant. give themfelves up to their Neighbours, who built Alexandria on the Ruins
v,r&d.. o£Tr<y, zsPaafanias obferves.

T HIS Ifland was one of the nrft Conquefts of the Per fans, who after
the Overthrow of the lonians at the Hie of Lada right againit Miletus,
Hevod. lib. 6. made themfelves mafters of Scior Lesbos, and Tenedos. It was reduced
SST ^>y tne Athenians, or at leaft took party with them againit the Laeedema- .
nians, fince Nicolochus, who ferv'd under Antalcidas, Admiral of Lacedp\
mon, ravaged this Ifland, and raifed Contributions on it, in lpite of tfye
Vigilance of the Athenian Generals who were at Samothrace and Thajfe.x
This perhaps was the realbn why the Tenedians causM to be graved qd '
their Medals an Owl, as is apparent from that of M. Baudelot ; the Owl ,
being the Device of the Athenians.

THE Romans enjoy'd Tenedos in their day, and the Temple of thai ,,,

Town was plunder'd by Verres, who impioufly did the fame by thole o;

Scio, Erythrea, Halicarnajfus, and Delos : he carry'd away the Statue oi

cic. pro Lege Tennes, Founder of the Town ; which threw the Inhabitants, Cicero lays

pro Arch. into the greateft Concern. The fame Author frequently lpeaks of thai

Poeta' memorable Battel won by Lucullus at Tenedos over Mithridates, and the

Captains whom Sertorius had brought into his Army.

TENE-

»

Defcrlption of the Ijland of Tenedos. 299

TEN E DOS fliared the fame Fate with the other Iflands under the Letter IX.
Roman Emperors, and under the Greek Emperors. The Turks laid hands ^-^^^"^J
on't betimes, and (till have it in poffefilon : it was taken by the Venetians Theven.
in 1656, after the Battel of the Dardanelles , but the Turks took it again Voyas* tom'u
almoft as fbon.

ST R A BO makes this Ifland eighty Stadia about, i.e. ten miles : it is
a good eighteen, and would be almoft circular, but for its Elongation to
the South-Eaft. This Author determines the diftance of the Terra-firma
at eleven Stadia, equivalent to 1575 paces, tho they reckon about fix
miles. Pliny made a better Judgment, in removing it twelve miles and
a half from the antient Sig&urn, which was on Cape "Janizary : the diftance
1 between Lesbos and Tenedos he fettles at fifty miles. All that Strabo fays
'of this Ifland, is, that it had one Town, two Havens, and a Temple
dedicated to Smynthian Apollo. Who would think this Sirname of Apollo
• was occafion'd by Mice ? And yet thefe Vermin were reprefented on the
; Medals of the Ifland ; they are call'd by the Cretans, Trojans, and Eo-
\lians, 2<uiv6of. Elian relates, that they made fuch devaftation in the Fields
of the Trojans and Eolians, they were obliged to confult the Oracle of
Delphos. The Anfwer imported, that they fhould be deliver'd from them,
if they facrificed to Smynthian Apollo. We have two Medals of Tenedos, teneaos
' with Mice graved on 'em ; the one with Apollo's Head irradiated, and a
Field-Moufe under it ; on its Reverie is a two-edged Hatchet : the other
Medal is with two Heads, back to back ; the Reverfe is the fame Hatchet
1 erected, and beneath it two Mice are placed. Strabo delivers, that a 2w^o< a-
Moufe was graved at the foot of Apollo's Statue in the Temple of Chryfa, r^gco*? '
to unfold the reafon of his being firnamed Smynthian, and that it wasllb' I?"
done by Scopas the famed Sculptor of Paros.

A MERCHANT of Conjlantinofle, who was on board our Ship,
told us there were no Relicks of Antiquity now in Tenedos : And indeed
all its Magnificence fell with that of Troy. For our parts, we had no
great defire to hunt after the Ruins of thofe Granaries Jnfiinian built
there, for a Staple or Repofitory of Corn brought from Alexandria for Con~
flantinople, which oftentimes corrupted by being kept on fhip-board by
contrary Winds, at the entrance of the Dardanelles. Thefe Magazines, Procop. «
Procopius tells us, were 280 foot long, and 90 broad. Their Height was i^ f^!f£'

Q.q 2 very

300 A Vo y A g e into the Levant.

very confiderable, and confequently mull; have been extraordinary flout
Buildings. We admired that wife Emperor's Forecaft ; but all this was no
Hift. Nat. ^ Spur to our Curiofity, any more than the Spring which in Pliny's time
overflowed its Bafon in the Summer Solflice, from three a-clock after mid-
night till fix. A much greater Attractive with us, was the Mufcat Wine |
of this Ifland, the mofl delicious of all the Levant. I fhall never forgive
the Antients omitting to make the Panegyrick of this Liquor, they
who affected to celebrate the Wines of Scio and Lesbos. 'Tis no excufe
to fay the Vine was not at that time planted in Tenedos ; the contrary
may eafily be proved, by the Medal of Tenedos in the Cabinet of M. Batt-
delot. Thereon is reprefented, on the fide of the two-edged Hatchet, a
Branch of a Vine charg'd with a very handfbm Bunch of Grapes, in
token of this Fruit's abounding in the faid Ifland. Our Concern, on this,
occafion, was fufficiently alleviated at Conjlantinople, by Monfieur the
Marquifs de Ferriol Ambaflador of France there. He drinks the beft Wine
of Tenedos, and keeps the beft Table in all the Eafl, even from Conftati
tinople to China or Japan,
jp of Moors, w- £ pafs'd the 26th of March very near the Ifland of Rabbits, or
JJlands of Moors, known to the Antients by the name of the Calydnes ',
thefe Iflands are abandoned. The Sea being very calm, our Ship had
little or no motion ; fo that M.Jubriet had full opportunity to draw,a|
Plan of Tenedos : To it I fhall add a very exact Draught of the whole
Ifland, communicated to me fince my Return.

YOUR Lordfhip will permit me, before I leave the Archipelago, to
give you an account of what I learnt at Mycone concerning the Ifland of
Nicaria, from a Papas of that Country, who pretended to be of the Fa-
mily of the Paleologi, tho he had not a Shoe to his Foot, and was forc'd
to flit Deal-Boards for a Livelihood. We attempted twice to pafs over
to Nicaria, but were repuls'd by the Weather.

NlCARIA.

ij»ef* >y \w THIS Ifland is fixty miles about, and extends from the Point call'd
■whence Nica- Papa, looking towards Mycone, as far as to the Point of ' Fanar, over

* Ajw«7if'<yoK againft Cape * Catabate in the Ifle of Samos. Strabo gives to Nicaria but
sfib^'"' 3°° Stadia of Circumference, which is no more than $7 miles and a half.

• k^antiov He determines the diftance of thefe two Capes at eighty Stadia, which

KapScteioir. .

itrab. W

ai
c

d
K
I
tl

lit
o

I

iDefcription of the IJland of Nicaria. goi

is but ten miles : and yet the Grand Bougas, or the Canal which is be- Letter IXv
tween Samos and Nicaria, is 1 8 miles over. ^-/~v^v-*

NICARIA is very narrow, and crofs'd quite through by a Chain ofAn:ea vocata
fharp-rais'd Mountains ; for which reafon it formerly was eall'd the long C1is. piin.lbid,
narrow Ifland. Thcfe Mountains are cover'd with Wood, and fupply the
whole Country with Springs. The Inhabitants have no other Trade to live
by, but the Sale of Planks of Pine, Oak, and Timber for building or burning,
which they carry to Scio or to Scalanova .- and indeed the Nicarians are lo
very poor, that they beg Peoples Charity as foon as ever they're out of
their own Ifland ; yet 'tis intirely their own fault, for not improving their
Lands as they ought. They gather little Wheat, but a good deal of
Barley, Figs, Honey, Wax: but after all, they're a parcel of Sots, Churls,,
and Demi-Savages. They make their Bread in proportion to what they
mean to eat for Diuner or Supper. This Bread is nothing but Buns with-
out Leven, which they half-bake on a flat Stone heated very hot : if the.
Miftrefs of the Houfe be big with child, flie has a double Portion of
thefe Buns, one for herfelf, and another for her Child ; the fame Civility
is paid to Strangers.

THIS Ifland was never well peopled. Strabo mentions it as an un-
cultivated Country, whole Paftures were of great ufe to the Samians.
'Tis thought, at prefent there are not above iooo Souls in it: the two
principal Towns have about ioo Houfes each ; one is cali'd Majferia, and Ma^eta.
the other Peramare. The Villages are Aratafa, where there are but four a&T*Z~J
Houfes, which is a great many ; for at Ploumara they have but three, two j^W'
at Nea, four at Perdikis near Fanar, five at Oxo, feven at Langada, They r%JW.
call a Village, in this Ifland, any place that has above one Houfe in it. a*£«a.

Nl CA R I A has not chang'd its Name ; it is cali'd Icaria, juft as in
days of yore : but the Franks, who don't underfland Greek, corrupt moil
Names. Every one knows that this Name is afcribed to hat -us Son of leans, qua
Dedal&sx who was drown'd hereabouts in the Sea, whence 'twas named dedir. pfo,.
the Icarian Sea. Strabo takes Leros and Cos into this Sea. Pliny makes ff^p'^'^'
its Extent only from Samos to Mycone. M. Bochart alone derives the Name ich«hyoei&
of haria from the Phenkian word Icaure, which fignifies full of Fijb ; '
which however is not very different from the Greek the Antients cali'd lyji-JUem,
the fame Ifland by. Be it as it will, the Fable of Icarus is very prettily Step *

% explain'd

302 A Voyage into the Levant.

iiift. Kit. explain'd by Pliny, who attributes the Invention of Ship-Sails to Icarus
Baeotic.C3P ' ' FM[anias will have it to be Dedaltu : but take it which way you will, in
all appearance the Wings which the Fable gives harm to make his efcape
into Crete, were no other than the Sails of the Ship that carry'd him to
the Ifland we are fpeaking of, and where he fufFer'd ihipwreck for want of
knowing how to work the Sails.

ALL the Inhabitants of Nicaria are of the Greek Communion, and
'tis faid their Language comes nearer the old Greek than that of the other
Iilands, where Commerce has occafion'd the Settlement of many Strangers
who have introduced infinite numbers of Words and Terminations of
their refpe&ive Countries. 'Tis highly probable, this Ifland has foliow'd
the deftiny of that of Santos, its Neighbour and Miftrefs. The Ifle of
Nicaria is no where fpoken of in the Relations of any War, but that be-
H'ft0f I* tW€en Baldwin II. Emperor of Conftantinople, and Vatace Son-in-Law of
of conft. 1. 4. Iheodorm Lafcaris : for the Fleet of Vatace took in 1 247 the Ifles of Afc.
gor^uic!^ telin, Scio, Santos, Icaria, and Cos, as we learn from Gregoras.

THE Nicarians acknowledge the Biihop of Samos in Spirituals. He
has a Protopapas there, under whom there are twenty four Papas who
have the care of feveral Chappels. There's but one Monaftery, call'd
'AyUbirti*' St.Lesbia, whofe Body they have, as they believe: but this Monaftery
abounds with Monks all one as the Villages do with Inhabitants- for
there's but one Angle Caloyer belonging to it,
THE Ifland wants Ports, as Strabo has obferv'd. One of the -prin-
•bttLvjtsw. ,cipal Calanques is at Fanar, where was the antient Town Dracanon. The
K*f*e«5«. otner looks to Scio, and is call'd Caraboujtas, that is, the Calanque or the
jEnot, strah. Port. The Ruins of the Town of JEnoe are hard by, in a place call'd
rh bfan • dimply the Field, or the Field of Rujhes. Here feems to be the place
tl KttK&i+i- where the Miletians brought a Colony : and as Caraboujtas is the belt Port
GeoS. of the Country, there's ground to believe 'tis this that was call'd I fit at

Isw. strab. tnat time> xhe good Ports of thefe Quarters are in the Ifles of Fourni
which have borrow'd their Names from their Figure ; for they are natu-
rally hollo w'd in the Rocks like the Roofs of Ovens. Thefe Iflands are
equally diftant from Nicaria and Samos to the Leeward, and confequently
more Southern. There's nothing to be feen but Wild-Goats.

STRABO

jDefcr "iption of the Ifland of Nicaria. 003

STRJBO affirms, there was in Nicaria a Temple of Diana, call'd Letter IX.
Tauropolium ; and Callimachus made no fcruple to fay that of all Iflands this ^v7vC^v->
was the mod delighted in by Diana. Goltzius has given the Type of a Me- -riyufKi^t
dal, reprefenting on one fide a Huntrefs Diana, and on the other a Perfon on t£S&uw
a Bull, which may be taken for Europa ; but, according to the Conjecture &rj/N""5h
of Nonim, it is rather the fame Diana, the Bull denoting the Luxuriance ikapIqn*
of the Paftures of the Ifland, and the Protection of that Goddefs. This
Medal was (truck in the Ifland we are fpeaking of, and not in another
Ifland of the fame name in the Sinus Perficus. Dionyfius Alexandrinus ad- Verf.6o8, &<-r
vances, that they ufed to offer Sacrifice in this latter to Apollo Tauropolti*
Eujlathius, his Commentator, fays no more than that it was a very fa-
mous Ifland ; but he adds, that they likewrfe paid great Veneration to
Apollo and Diana Tauropoles in the Ifland of Jcaria of the Egean Sea :
whence we- muft conclude^ that thefe Deities were the ObjecT: of Worfhip
among the Inhabitants of thefe two Iflands. Tauropolis in this place fig-
nifies a Protector of Bulls; and not a Merchant, as one would think by
the name. 'Twould be tedious to relate the Sentiments of the antient
Authors concerning this Name ■; we muft abide by that of Suidas : it is
fufficient to obferve, that Diana Tauropolu was not only honour'd in the
Iflands of Jcaria, but alio in that of Andros, and at Amphipolu in Thrace,
as we learn from Lity. We mud not confound the Name of Tauropolis Lib. 44.
with that of Taurobolis, which likewife belong'd to Diana. The Tauro-
bolii properly was a Sacrifice altogether Angular, which Prudentius has
very well defcribed, and has fince been molt learnedly explain'd by
M. de Boze.

THE Fanar or Fanari of Nicaria is an old Tower, which ufed to ferve $rfvJ?w> tant-
for a Light-houfe to direct Shipping between this Ifland and Samos ; for this bh"',"^ Light~
Canal is dangerous when the Sea runs high, tho 'tis eighteen miles over.
That of Nicaria at Mycone is near forty miles, and from one Port to the
other above fixty. Meflieurs Fermanel and Thevenot were miftaken in
fpeaking of Nicaria : they took it for Niffaro, where are the famoufeft
Divers of all the Archipelago. The Inhabitants of Nicaria are wretched-
ly poor, and have nothing to do but to cut Wood : they are without
either Cadi or Turk ; all their Affairs are managed by a couple of Ad-
miniflrators, who are chofe annually. In 1700, they paid 525 Crowns

* to

3°4

A Voyage into the Levant.

to the Capitation, and 130 Crowns to the Cuftomer of Scio for the Land-
Tax, and more particularly to have the liberty to go fell their Wood out
of the Ifland. They ufe nothing but Hand-mills, fetch'd from Milo or
Argentiere ; but the Milo Stones are the bell:. Thefe Mills confift of two
flat round Stones, about two foot diameter, which they rub one on ano-
ther by means of a Stick, which does the office of a Handle. The Corn
falls down on the undermoft Stone, through a hole which is in the middle
of the uppermoft, which by its circular motion fpreads it on the under-
moft, where it is bruifed and reduced to Flower : which Flower working
out at the rim of the Mill-ftones, lights on a Board, fet on purpofe to re-
ceive it. The Bread made hereof is better-tailed than that of Flower
ground either by Wind or Water-mills : thefe Hand-mills coft not above
a Crown, or a Crown and a half.

I am, &c.

■

■

LET*

1-

I

n.Jiutns ofJunoir^i/ryt/Af ■

jjttu/is of '{isii+l/ur ansi&U- 'Jlmsn .
/; . //h/su/t- or Sa/>i/i/i?ri!f /TZeiuUzu/i .
o.Jiui/u of'un an£4£*ir "C^/f/i

j.Jiu//ts ty~asi afLceetiff-Ihfi/n. .'

S. 7/ltisi<t. li&r&a&cNiwidiov Na£OruGLj Jtm£:

g.^7t' /2ys tj\\<yv/ruu: .Awpomqc^i:
-ri-i-r n fort Jet.'

lo Wo&etdioi'

-^PiH

S^jjtfos

In

(3°5)

LETTER X.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain^
Secretary of State, &c.

My LorpJ

O T to break the Defcription of the Arcbipelagot I mall here Defection of
entertain you with an Account of Samosy Patmosy and Skyros ; sarnot"rat-^
tho we law them not till out Return from Anatoli a. mof» }™™\

and Skyros.

WE let out from ! Scalanova far Samos the 25th of January) ■ NsaW« »
1702, on a Tartane of Captain Duboisy who was picking up Turkijb Pil- ft^-q" &
grims, on the Co alls o£AJiay to conduct 'em to Ale xandria. Thefe PU-$s«f<iW.
grims are call'd y^gxr, and go from Alexandria, to Mecha. The Opportu- Geog. lib. 14.
j'nity was favourable, in fecuring us againft the Banditti, who lurk in the
S1 Boshas of Samos. Thefe Boghas are the Straits at the two Points 0f,^»«^.c*i

• b O nals, Straits,

the Ifland. The little Boghas is at the Eaft-South-Eaft, and its Mouth Bogazi, in
) ooks to the South. Strabo allows it to be but ' 875 paces broad, tho 'tis in , 5l..,w'Stad;a;
eality above 1000, and in length 3000. It parts the Ifle oi Samos from
he Terra-fir ma ofAfia: this4 Strait is fhut in, according to the fame Au- 42*>;n8f9-
.hor, between the s Cape of Neptune and the Mountain of4 Mjcale, which S^.""

I; iuft over aeainft it in Jfia. This Mountain, the higheft thereabouts, f'f • '*'*
nd forky at top, is to this very day in the iame lute Strabo delcnbes it ; jw. strafe,
amely, a very fine Country for Hunting, well wooded, and full of^«^^.
i»eer ; 'tiscall'd the Mountain of Sam [on. becaufe of a Village of the fame w ^&J^»-
. une, not far off, and which in all appearance was built on the Ruins ibid,
'the antient Town of Priene, where Bias one of the feven Wife-men oinatmh. Syab.
reece had his birth. The Robbers that haunt thefe parts in troops, did
Vol. I. R r not

306 A Voyage into the Levant.

not permit us to get a nearer infight into this matter, nor likewife whether
the Village of Tcbangli ftands in the fame place where was the famous
Hu'^A ^aniontumt where aflembled the Deputies of the twelve Towns of IonUt
Mvvfhnt '/*■ among which Samos held a confiderable rank : in this Sacred Place the

110V «S7 7«

iieiod. lib. i. moft weighty Affairs were wont to be regulated, after (acrificing to Nep-
Strab. lib. 8. tune^ fciungli is between Samos and Scalanova, to the North of Mycaley
m\K. exaclly in the Pofition Strabo affigns to Panionium, There wants only

an Infcription to authorize this Point;
Ww/Aar « i pg tne middle of this Strait towards its Southern Mouth on a Rock,
s«tab. Rer. is erecled an antient Chappel ; and the little Ifland which the Antients call
eog. i .14. jyartecjs js place<j between this Rock and the Ifle of Samos. N Art ecu
UmtJ&m* helps to determine the Situation of Neptune's Cape, which took its name
^^W/wii from a Temple dedicated to that God. The King has a Medal of Com-
j2^'J modus, the Reverfe whereof reprefents Neptune and Jupiter ; the Legend:
GAMinN. is of the Samians.

■ A4.ubecb.. TH E grand Boghas is to the ' South-Weft of the Ifland, between the

Stab, lib.' 14. Weftern Point, call'd the ' Cape of Samos, and the grand Ifle of Eourni.

This Strait is eight miles broad, and not above ten miles diftance from.

Nicaria : accordingly they reckon eighteen miles from Stmos to Nicaria%

from Cape to Cape. AH the Ships coming down from Confiantinople ^

into Syria and Egypt, after refting at Scio, are obliged to pais through one j,,

of thefe Straits. The fame mult they do, that go up from Egypt to Coif' p]r

ftantinople. Here they meet with good Harbours, and it would be too- ^

long a Courfe for 'em to pafs towards Mycone and Naxia : fb that thefe ^

Boghas are very proper places for the Corfairs to fpy what Ships pafs to u

and fro. ^

T H O the Paffage from Scalanova to Samos is but twenty five mile$r y

we were obliged, by reafbn of a Calm, to put in behind a finall Rock ,j„

H&totn** call'd Prafoniji, very near the little Boghas. We went afhore next day, y

the 30th of January, and in two hours and a half got to Vati, a Village

in the North of the Ifland on the defcent of a Mountain, within a mile of

the Port. There are fcarce more than 500 Houfes in tin's Village, witb)fJ(. ,

five or fix Chappels ; but both the one and the other are fcurvily builty tho; \ ,

this is one of the moft confiderable Places of the IflancL j u|fa,

THE

K

Defer iption of the Ifland of Samos. 307

THE Villages of the Southern Coaft are Cora, which in vulgar Greet Letter X,
fignifies the City, and yet it fcarce contains 600 Houfes, and i moll of^^T^-
'em empty ever fince the Country was ravaged by Morofni, General of the
Venetian Army. Cora is two miles from the Sea, adjoining to the Ruins
of the antient Town of Samos. Its Air is at this time unwholefome, be-
caufe of the Waters ftagnating in the Plain, which formerly empty'd
themfelves in the Sea ; yet is the Country fruitful and plealant to the Eye.
Within a league of Cora is a fmall Village call'd Miles, or the Mills ; next M,A"f' .

& 111 BtwovJk,

comes Bavonda, four miles from the Sea : the other Villages to the South, Nai^e^.
are Neocorio, two miles from the Coaft ; Gueitani, three miles ; Maratro- Ma^aims.
camp, the like diftance ; Eforeo, five miles ; Spatarei, on Cape Coloune ; ^ ^
Sureca is hard by. Paleocafiro is two miles from the Sea, North; Vour~^m-^^'
totes, the like; Fourni, three miles; Carlovaffi, one mile ; and Caflania is x\<ausi^t^t.
at the foot of the Mountain Catabate, as is alfo Albaniticorio. We muft k2a^.
add to thefe Villages, Platano, the handfomeft of 'em all ; Pyreos and Co- Ka^via-
marea, w hich are about the middle of the Ifland. This Ifland is full of e/o.
Eminences and Precipices, whence it had its Name ; for, according to n^-
Conjlantine Porphjrogenetes, the antient Greeks uled to give the Name of KoW~*'
'Samos to foch places as were very high. There's nothing agreeable in
this Ifland but the Plain of Cora. The great Chain of Mountains crofting
Samos from one end to t'other, was ufed to be call'd Ampelos. Its Weflern Kuv^emv.
Part, which dips into the Sea towards Nicaria, retain'd the fame Name ; k tT'L* "/4"
was alfo call'd Cantharium and Cercetetts. 'Tis this terrible Rock that ?***"*£•

Stiab. lib. 10.

makes the Cape of Samos. The Greeks have preferv'd to it the Name of Kt-mGd-m,
'Kjrki, which founds fomewhat like Cercetem. They alfo call it Catabate, *„%)"'!.
[ which fignifies a Precipice. dc*™ifdo''**

WHILE Greece was in its fplendour, this Ifland was very populous 0r ilfi thls
md well-manured. At top of the Mountains are flill to be feen Rows of ' ouafion'dfrom
iValls for bounding the Lands. I don't think there are at prefent in Samos fir"^",!,
.bove 1 2000 Men, all of the Greek Church. There are not above three V"tndV,:

KcLTet£a.7tif

ramilies of Turks ; that of the Cadi, that of the Aga, who live both at tieit, ^ri
"or a ; and that of the Aga's Subdelegate, who reftdes at Carlovaffi, or at %L$%It,
ratt, the Manfion of the Vice-Conful of Prance. The Aga is properly Ji^t*"
nly a Waivod, fent to colledt the Land-Tax. ™us Legat. ad

Julian. Paufar..
Eliac. prior.

Rr 2 ONCEPharnutu^f

qo8

A Vo y A g e into the Levant;

Tovij cogna- ONCE a year they chufe an Adminiftrator or two in each Village,.

minibus, ffeak J \ ' - . , .

«/ Jupiter, k*- except Cora, Vati, and Carlovafp, where they elect two Papas and four

TtSt™?*1" Burghers, in cafe there be fo many : otherwife, they take Matters of

Thunder. Caicks, or Labourers. The Papas themfelves are nothing but Pea-

fants advanced to Orders, without any other Merit but that of laying

Mafs by heart. There are above 200 of 'em, and the number of Ca-

loyers is dill greater; fb that the Ifland is governed by Churchmen,

n*!'*?* i*- who pofTefs feven Monafteries, namely, Our Lady of the Girdle, Our Lady

n&UyMtep-of the Thunder, Our Lady the Great, St. Elijah, the Convent of the Crofs,

Ito^dc St. George, and St. John.

C** „, THERE are four Nunneries in Santos • one at St. Elijah, another near

2t*y£«. Our Lady the Great, a third at Bavonda, and the lafl at the Monaftery of
Zy.u icdtm. the Crofs : we were furthermore told, there were above 300 private
"■*«■■ Chappels.

THE Biihop of this Ifland, who is alfo Bifliop of Nicaria, refides at
Cora, and enjoys about 2000 Crowns annual Income. Befides which, he
draws a confiderable Revenue by blefling the Waters and the Cattel,
which Ceremony is perform'd the beginning of May. All the Milk-
meats and all the Cheefe that are made that day, belong to the Bifliop:
he has likewife two Beafts out of every Herd.

THE Samians live at their eafe, and are not tyranniz'd over by the

Turks. The Ifland is rated at 1290 Billets to the Capitation, at five

Crowns a Billet ; which comes 106450 Crowns. The Aga, who puts his

Seal on every Billet, exacts likewife one Crown ; and the Papas, who will

be meddling in every thing, and who fettle the Allotment of the Billets,

xw« Twins, claim ten Pence each Billet, fo that the private Men pay fix Crowns

ten Pence, The Ouflorns of the Ifland are farm'd but at 10000 Crowns:

'tis thought the Aga who levies the Duties, gets full as much. Whenever

a Greek dies without Male Iflue, the Aga is Heir to all his arable Lands:

the Vineyards, the Olive-Plantations, and tire Gardens belong, to the

Daughters, and his Relations may have the Refufal when the Lands are

to be fold. The Aga's Silk pays 4 per Cent. Cuftom : the Aga has great

Perquifites out of this Commodity.

THE Women of this Ifland are very nafty and ugly, and don't fhift
above once a month. Their Habit is a Veil; after the TurktfJj manner, with

?g/-i-

Fap-^oS-

cf/orris/i '&f 'Jhsnv&.

i?S

Defcription of the IJland of Samos. 309

a red Coif, and a Taflel yellow or white, which hangs down their back, Letter X.
as does their Hair, which rnofl commonly they part into a couple of ^f^f^-*
TrelTes, at the bottom whereof hangs a Bunch of fmall Plates of Block-
Tin or Silver of a coarfe Alloy, for they have fcarce any other in this
Country.

THE Land-Tax here is about 12000 Crowns. A Tenth is likewife
paid out of all forts of Grain and Fruit, without excepting the very
Onions and Gourds : they have abundance of Melons, Lentiles, French-
Beans, &c. The Mufcadine Grapes are the belt and beautifullefl Fruit of .
the Ifland : when they are ripe, the Vineyards are crouded with People,
every body eats his fill, and picks and chufes where he thinks fit. Good
Wine might be made of 'em, if they knew how to make it,, and put it
into wooden Casks ; but the Greeks are extremely nafty, and befides,
they can't forbear mixing Water with it : yet have I drank excellent
Mufcadine Wine at Samos, which had been carefully made for the account-
of our Smyrna Merchants. They gather about 3000 Barrels of Mufca*-
dine at Samos. Each Barrel weighs 1 58 Pounds 4 Ounces ; and a Load of fifiy. °v>'T>.
this Wine, which is a Barrel and a half, fells on the fpot,from 4 to 7 Liyres
io Sous ; that of red Wine is worth but 4 Livres, or ico Sous : this is a
deep-colour'd Wine, and would be good, if it were not mix'd with Water j
'tis carry'd to Scio, Rhodes, and Napoli di Romania. The Greeks pay
4 or 5 per Cent, for exporting this Wine, or more, jufl as the Cuftom-
houfe Officers pleafe : the French pay but half as much. No Duty is paid
to the Grand Signior ; but every ' Piece of a Vineyard that has fifty paces ; Er^wx,
in length, and twenty in breadth, pays him ' forty Sous per ann. > An folate.

THE Import on Oil is after the rate of 1 o per Cent* The Greeks for
the Export of this Commodity pay 4 per Cent, and the. French 1 per Cent* .
but the whole feldom exceeds 8 or 900 Barrels, each weighing as much as
the Barrels of Wine, /'. e. 158 Pound. They'll fell you 1139 Pound for
a Crown.

THEY every year lade three Barks with Wheat for France. Each
Bark contains 8 or 90b Mealiires, that is, 60000 or 675,00 pound weight,,
for each Meafure is 7 5 pound. It is eall'd a Quilot ; the Quilot is three
Panaches, each Panache is 8 Oques, and the Oqucs are 25 pound. Be-
fides the common Grain, they fow in Samos a great deal of large white

Miller,

31 o A Voyage Into the Levant.

Milium arun- Millet, which they call Cbicri. The poorer fort, in making their Bread,
no aiboque fe- mix half Wheat and half Barley and white Millet. Some mix only Mil-
jnme. c, b. ^ aud Barley, of both which they have great plenty in this Ifland.

WHAT Figs they dry, are only for their own ufe : they are very
white, and three or four times as big as thole of Marfeilles, but not of
fb delicate a tafte : Caprifi cation is not pra&is'd in this Ifland, and there.
fore the Fig-Trees are lefs fruitful here than elfewhere. We thought their
Cheefe none of the befl ; they put 'em new into Leathern Veffels with
Salt-water, and let 'em drain and dry at leifure : the cuftom is to fend once
a year three Bark-load of it to France; ioo pound weight cofts but two
Crowns, or a Sequin.

THE Pine-Trees, in the North of the Ifland, yield about 500 or 400

Quintals of Pitch : 'tis worth a Crown a Quintal, and pays 4 per Cent.

Kihivt £ bj- Cuftom. Velanides is another Commodity this Ifland exports to Venice,

and Ancona ; 'tis that fort of Acorn which the Tanners ufe when reduced

to Powder, and of which I have given a defcription already. Santos was

Afu«*fe steph. antiently call'd the I/land of Oaks, upon occafion of the vafl numbers of j

Oaks it produced.
18 or 20 n. THE Silk of this Ifland is very fine; 'tis worth 4 livres 10 fols, or
pound. 1 00 fols a pound; this Traffick one year with another may be rated at
twenty or twenty 'five thouland Crowns. Their Honey and Wax are ad-
mirable : fifty pound weight of Honey fells for a Crown, but their Wax
is worth nine or ten Sous a pound. They gather no lefs than 200 Quin-
tals of Honey ; but of Wax, fcarce 100 : the Quintal weighs 140 pound,
as it does in all the other patrs of Turkey.
v.&yjj.*™ k, THE Scammony of Santos is not over-good : it is of a red colour
hard, tough, and confequently not eafy to break. It not only purges
with violence, but oftentimes occafions Gripings of the Bowels, and
very uneafy Super-purgations : we did not fee the Plant it comes from
becaufe it flioots not before the end of March or beginning of April. They
convolvulus fliew'd us for the Plant of Scammony, the youno Stalks of a fort of
fis. c. b. Bind-wccd, whole Leaves are not unlike thole of our little Bind-weed
but that they are larger, hairy, flafh'd at their Bafis not fo prettily as
thofe of the Syrian Scammony. The Scammony of Santos anfwers per-
fectly well to Diofcorides^s, Defcription of it ; it grows in the Plains of

Mjfa

lla/jM

377 «•

yz>Lx.

Ta^.3,1.

'■/■}

the. ffaty/iss.

rDefcription of the IJland of Samos. grr

My fa between Mount Olympus and Mount Sipyli : but 'tis flrange, tliat in Letter X.
the days of Diofcorides they fhould prefer the Juice of this Species to ^~v^*j
that of Scammony of Judea, which is the fame with that of Syria ; for
Experience obliges us to reject that of Myjia or of Smyrna, and flick to
the ufe of that of Aleppo or Syria. That of Samos and Scalanova is con-
joined in Anatolia. It is Cuftom-free ; and but little is tranfporred to the
Weflern Parts of the World.

THE Fecundity of the Ifland of Samos was matter of admiration with "on fa $
theAntients. Strabo was ravifh'd with every individual thing in it, ex« Jr^p£f*'
eept the Wine : but belike he never tailed its Mufcadine Wine, or perhaps y'wfejK
they never bethought themfelves of making any. Athen^m, after jEthUtts, Geog, Kb. i4*
reports that the Fig-Trees, Apple-Trees, Role-Trees, and the Vines too ^hen- D^n.
of this Iflandr bore Fruit twice a year. Pliny takes notice of the Pome- Hift. Njr,
granates of Samos, fome of which had red Seeds, others white. Befides ,'b• **' * I?*
Fruit, the Country is at this time full of Wild- Fowl, Partridge, Wood-
cock, Snipe, Thrufhes, Wood-Pidgeons, Turtle-Doves, Wheatears. Its-
Poultry too is excellent : Heath-cocks are not common there, but keep
to the Sea-fide between the little Boghas and Cora, near a marihy Pool, Tomtit, flte-
which we havenot omitted in our Chart ; they call 'era Meadow- Partridge, "f^. *
There are no Rabbits in Samos, but abundance of Hares, WildrBoars,
Coats, and fome Deer. They breed much Cattel : they have fewer
Sheep than Goats. The French lade a Bark with Wool once a year : 'tis
fold at the rate of 5 Ibis for $ pound 2 oz. weight.

PAR T R TD G E S you may have for three-pence a Brace. The Na-
tives not knowing how to moot flying, wait for 'em along the Brooks-
where they come to drink in Droves, like Larks ; they'll kill ye feven or
eight at a time, nay fifteen or twenty. The Mules and Herfes of the
Ifland are not handfome, but are good Goers ; and tho they let 'em graze-
as they lift, without confining 'em to Inclofures, they never flray from,
their Owners Houfes, and are eafily taken up whenever there's occafion..
They breed a great many Beeves, but know not what a. Buffalo is. The:
Wolves and Jackals do fbmetimes a deal of mifchie£ They have fome
Tygers too, which come from the Terra-frma by the little Boghas-

SAMOS does not want for Iron Mines; mofl of the Land looks of
the colour of Rufl. All about Bavonda is full of a Bolus, deep red, very

fine,.

rxs.

oi2 ^Voyage into the Levant I

s«_mia Ufa fine, very dry, and flicks to the Tongue. It is a natural Saffron of
efcuienris lau- Mars, from whence they extract 'Iron, by the afliflance Of Linfeed Oil ;
hIjl'IZ1!"' s*™m was heretofore famed for Earthen Ware ; perhaps it was this Earth
NosSamiode- about Bavonda. According to Aulus Gelliw, the Samians were the firft
invwm. "' Inventors of the Pottery-Trade ; now no body follows it, and they ufe
Aui.Geii. iib.5. the Anconx Ware intirely : the ' Jars for Brandy and Wine come from

, K^fJ^ot' v ^cio' ^itn ta^in§ ever *° nct^e Pains> one vvould find at Samos * thofe
feig. Dwj'c. two forts 0f white Earth which were ufed medicinally by the Antients a

lib.c. c. 172. **»»»,

pim.Hift.Nai. DUC tney don't concern themfelves about fuch Inquiries, any more than
lib. 3 2. cap. 1 6. for the Samian Stone, 'which was not only of ufe to polifh Gold withaL a>

* Diofc. ibid. * ^

cap. 173. but was very prevalent in many Diftempers.

5J*J2j*jj THE Emery Stone is not fcarce in this Ifland. Oker is common a-
bout Vati : it takes a very fine yellow being put in the fire, and if it lies
there long, turns to a brownifh-red ; it has no manner of tafte, and natu-
rally (tains a fillamot colour. There is found about Carlovaffl a very
black and fine Earth, but altogether infipid; which, becaufe it ferves to
dye lowing Thred of a black colour, fhould feem to partake of Vitriol.

ALL the Mountains of this Ifland are of white Marble. On the
way from Vati to the little Boghas there's a very beautiful Pillar, not yet
loofen'd from its Quarry. I was told there was a fine Jafper towards PU-
tuno. Thefe Mountains are very cool, .full of Springs cover'd over with
Trees, and very delightful. The molt noted Streams are that of Metelu
now, and that which runs beyond the Ruins of the Temple of 'Juno.

THE Port of Vati, which looks to the North-Weft, is the ."heft of bi
the Ifland. Ships come to an anchor on the right, in a fort of a Bay
form'd by a little Hill jutting out like a Pot-hook. This Port, which
-is capacious enough for a large Fleet, gave occafion to build a Town
•there; its Ruins, tho without any Badges of Magnificence, look to be
of a vaft extent : it has been forfaken a long time by the Inhabitants, for
fear of the-Corfair-s. Fetching a compafs round thelfland, from this Port
Wefhvard, you eome to the Coaft of Carlovatfi, which is fit for nothing v
but Caicks or large Boats, and thofe too muft be tow'd afhore. The Pore

Seit.Hi, :n Tur- . . . . . _. < -^

kifh L*ngua&. beitan is nine miles oft Larlovaffi ; but it is the worft Port of the whole
£-?' '** I^and, and the North-Wind is fatal to moll VefTels there. Beyond Seitan,
TUnCd™, de the liland terminates by the Mountain of Catabate, which makes the Cape

Eelcenliis. of

Defcription of the IJland of Samos. 3 1 3

of Samos, and the Cape forms one of the fides of the great Boghas*: Letter X.

when a Storm threatens, you muft retreat into fome Port of the Iflands v-'^v_^-'

of Four My on the right. After doubling the Cape of S.tmos, you come to

MarairoiAmpo thence you pals between the Ifland of ' Samapoula and the ' Ripara. pU»>

Cape Cologne, named the 2 Cape of Juno on account of a Temple hard by, , r'c H J,

facred to that Goddcfs. From this Cape you enter into a very convenient Stiab- Rer-

Port, but too much expos'd to the South-Eafi: Wind ; which made the They \ifo call

Antients to build on the Coaft of Cera, over againft the Town of Samos, corafmt

a beautiful Mcic, to Ihelter their Gallies : this Mole now goes bv the whi,e CaPe-

D •* a a-!r^ ^CD-

name of Tigani? bxaufe of its Roundnefs; for in vulgar Greek, Tigam

fignifies a round Cake.

I N the little Boghas, over againft the Mountain of Samfon, is a Re-
treat for Ships call'd the Gallj-port ; about which we difcern'd the Ruins
of an antient Town and the Remains of two Temples, as we conjectured
from five or fix Columns lying on the ground. The one was built on an
Eminence, and the other in a Bottom : the Ruins of the Town are full
of Bricks, interfpers'd with fome pieces of white Marble and bits of Co-
lumns of Jafper ftain'd red and white. At the Point of the Port, the
narrowed part of the Boghas, are the Foundations of an antient Tower
of Marble : the People of the Country pretend there ufed to be Chains
a-crofs to bar the Strait ; adding withal, that there are ftill to be feen on
the other fide, which is on the Terra-firma, certain mafTy Rings of Brafs
for that very purpofe. The laft Port of the Ifland is that of Prafonif,
behind a Rock fo call'd, between the Boghas and the Port of Vati. Be-
fore you difcover this Port, you pafs by three or four Rocks, the chief of
which is call'd Didafcalo or Dafcalio, within Gun-fhot of the Ifland : this,
they lay, was formerly the College or School of the whole Country.

I H A V E nothing further to add, in relation to the Ports of the
Ifland. The old Town of Samos extended from the Port of Tigani, ' o \i£&mi
which is three miles from Cora, to as far as the \ great River which runs st™fti, t
within 5 co paces of the Ruins of the Temple of Juno : for 4 Strabo ad- Me?f'*« «•■
vances, that one of the Suburbs of this Town was at the Cape of Juno ; g*r Greek.
the fame Author writes, thziTembrio, and Vrocles after him, built Samos. *T°,<w?'*"«-

' ' ov in zzgef rot

The Tranflation has it Patrocles, but 'tis much more probable it mould be H^fa. stiab.

ibid.

King Vrocles. Vitruv'ms pretends, the Town of Samos, and the thirteen Archit. Hb# 4>
VoL I. Sf Towns "P* •■

g 1 4- A Voyage into the Levant.

Towns of Ionia, were the Work of Ion the Athenian, who gave Ionia
its Name.

T H O Santos is intirely deftroy'd, yet may it be divided into Upper
and Lower, for the better understanding the Plan. The Upper Town
took up the Hill, North ; and the Lower ran along the Sea-more from
Port Tigani to the Cape of Juno. Tigani, which is the Gaily-Port of the
Antients, as I laid e'en now, is in form of a Half-Moon, and regards the

Lb- 3- South-Eaft : its left Horn is that famed Jettee, which Herodotus reckon'd

among the three Wonders of Samos ; this Jettee was 20 Toiles in height,
and advanced above 250 paces into the Sea. So extraordinary a Work at
that time of day, is an Evidence of the Samians Application to Marine

Thucyd. lib.i. Matters : and fo we find 'em receiving with open Arms Aminocles the Co-
rinthian, the ableft Shipwright of his time, who built 'em four Ships,
about 300 Years before the end of the Peloponnejian War. It was the Sa-
mians that carry'd Batus to Cyrene, above 600 Years before Chrift; in

Hia. Nat. fhort, we have Plinfs word for't, that they were the Inventors of Tranf-
port Ships for carriage of Cavalry.

FROM the Port of Tigani we afcended an Eminence thick fet with
Marble Tomb-ftones, without either Sculpture or Infcriptions. Thence,
Northward, begin the Remains of the Walls of the Upper Town, on the
flope of a rugged Mountain. This Compafs continuing to the top, form'd
a lafge Angle towards the Weft, after running the whole length of the
Mountain's fide. Thefe Walls, by what appears, were very noble, espe-
cially thofe in fight of Cora ■ they were ten foot thick, and in *fbme
places twelve, built with huge Scantlings of Marble, cut for the moft
part facet- wife like Diamonds. We "law nothing in all the Levant to
compare with them : the Inter-fpaces were Mafonry ; all the Redoubts
were of Marble, and had their FaufTe-ports to throw in Soldiers on oc-
cafion.

THE Brow of the Mountain, Southward, was cover'd with Houfes in
form of an Amphitheatre, and faced the Sea. Below, is flill feen the
place of a Theatre, the Materials whereof have been carry'd away to

n*v*>(* ka<- build Cora. It was fituated on the right of a Chappel, call'd, Our

*?^/«* £ Lady of a thou/and Satis, or Our Lady of the Grotto, on account of a
remarkable Grotto fill'd with Congelations. In the places about the

Cblippel

Defcription of the IJland of Samos. g r 5

Chappcl are abundance of Marble Pillars, forne round, others pan- Letter X.
nel'd. ^J^T>^

GOING down from the Theatre to the Sea, you behold a world
of broken Pillars, moil: of 'em either channel'd or in pannels ; lome
round, others channel'd on the fides with a Plat-band before and be-
hind, like rhofe of the Frontifpiece of Jpollo's Temple at Delos. There
are alio feveral other Columns with different Profils on lome adjacent Ri-
fings : their Dilpofition flill is round or in fquares, which makes me guefs
they lerv'd for Temples or Porticos. The like we fee in many other
places up and down the Ifland.

THE Ruins of the Houfes, among which they now drive the Plough, -
are of ordinary Mafbnry, mix'd with Bricks and lome pieces of Marble,
adorn'd with Mouldings, or fimply fquared out. We law no Infcriptions :
thoie made when Greece was in its Glory, are either fb broken or defaced,
they can't be underftood.

A S for the Breadth of the Town, it took up part of that fine Plain
which comes from Cora as far as to the Sea, Southward ; and Weftward,
as far as to the River that runs beyond the Ruins of Juno's Temple. The
Water was convey'd by an Aqueduct, the Remains whereof are ftiil in
part to befeen as you come from Miles to Pjrgos, as likewife at the Port
of the ' Farm of the grand Convent of our Lady. Thefe Canals or Aque- ■ uiiiyt T«
duels were of excellent Brick made of Bavonda Earth, and were very ^K,,i ,JJS""

' J ttya.i.

neatly fet in. Uai%,wkkk

BESIDES this Aqueduct, the Waters that come from MetelwousfgirGnxka
empty themfelves likewife at the Entrance of the Lower Town, after ^yX«/^*r
having pafs'd under the Arches of an Aqueduct crofs the Dale leading; comef from

" r ° [JLimiuHnf, ha-

from Cora to Vati. On the right of this Dale is the Mountain whereon bitatio.
is built the Upper Town : on the left is a Mountain, which I fhail here-
after call the perforated Mountain, for certain Reafons which fhall be
given. You pais over this fmall Stream along the Sea-fhore, going from
Tigani to the Ruins of the Temple : hereabouts are flill to be feen the
Badges of a very confiderable Chriftian Church. Beyond this Stream,
you crofs another, which comes directly from Cora, and in all appearance
fcrv'd the Upper Town with Water.

S f z ON

a 1 6 A Vo y a g e into the Levant.

ON the left of the Dale, near to the Aqueduct that croffes it, are
certain Caverns, the Entrance of fome of 'em was artificially cut;
and if we may believe the People of the Country, they have ferv'd for
above 2000 Years as Sheltring-places to the Sheep, Goats, and Cows :
and for that reaibn the Land there is full of Nitre. We were told they
had fhut up one of thefe Caverns where this Salt is perfectly cbryf-
talliz'd ; the Turks are neither induflrious nor ingenious enough to make
ufe of it, and would lay by the heels fuch Greeks as mould prefume to
touch 'em.

I N all appearance fbme of thefe artificial Caverns were what Herodotus
lays were rank'd among the mod wonderful Performances of the Greek
Nation. Eupalinus the Architect of Megara was the Contriver of this like-
wile. The Samians, to ule the words of Herodotus, bored through a Mountain
150 Toifes deep; and in this Opening, which was 875 faces long, they formed
a Canal twenty Cubits deep and three foot broad, to convey to their Town the
Waters of a beautiful Spring. The Entrance of this Opening is Hill to be
feen ; the other parts have been filPd up fince then. The beautiful Spring
which tempted 'em to go upon fo great a Work, is doubtlefs that of Me-
telinous, which I mall take notice of in its proper place ; for this Village
is feated on the other fide of the bored Mountain. From this marvellous
Canal, the Water pafs'd through the Aqueduct that croHes the Dale, and
proceeded to the Town by a Conduit which took the lame turn as the
Canal of Cora. The Canal that crofs'd the Mountain is of a furprizing
deepnels ; but this perhaps they were obliged to, for preferving the Level
of the Spring. Laurentius Valla had no good grounds for believing that the
Breadth of its Canal was triple its Depth ; for certainly the Opening, by
what now appears of it, could not be above fixty Cubits broad : befides,
a Canal of this diameter, and twenty Cubits deep, would be capable of
Aw niya.MK carrying a large River inflead of a Spring. M. du Ryer teems not to have
Tm! underftood this Paflage of Herodotus ; for, according to his Tranflation,

the Spring mould ilTue out of the bored Mountain ; whereas the Moun-
tain was bored on purpofe to bring the Water that way.

SOME 500 paces from the Sea, and almofl the like diftance from the

River Imbrafus towards Cape Cora, are the Ruins of the famous Temple

iie)v t« of Samian Juno, that is, Juno the Protectrels of Samos. The more inge-

Lb. i5« 4- mous

Hefrription of the IJland of Samos. g 1 7

mous lore of Papas ftiil call it by the name of Juno's Temple. Menodo- Letter X.
tus the Samian, cited in Athen&us as the Author of a Tractate about the
Curiofities of Samos, fays that it was built by Car teas and lome Nymphs ;
for this Ifland was firft in poiTeflion of the Carians. Paujanias fays, it
was luppos'd to be the Work of the Argonauts, who had brought from
Argos to Samos a Statue of the Goddefs, and that the Samians afferted
that Juno was born on the Banks of the River lmbrafus under one of
thofe Trees we call Aenus Callus. It is true thefe Trees are very frequent At/;« '" ""'
along this River, and indeed throughout the Ifland, and the whole Archi- dun Greek.
pelago. The Stump of the Agnus-Cajlus was Ihewn in way of Veneration
for a long time in the Temple of Juno. Paufanias proves alio the Anti-
quity of this Temple from that of the Goddels's Statue, which was the
Workmanfhip of SmilU Sculptor of Egina, Cotemporary of Dedalus. Cle-
mens Alexandrinus, on the Credit of ALtblius a very antient Author, ob-
ferves that the Statue of Juno at Samos, was only a Stump of Wood,
afterwards form'd into a Statue. Atbenxus, on the Veracity of the lame
Menodotus whom we juft now mention'd, forgets not a famous Miracle
which happen'd when the Tyrrhenians would have carry'd off Juno's Sta-
tue : thofe Pirates were wind-bound, till fuch time as they reftored it again
to its place. The Ifland was much relbrted to on account of this Pro-
digy, which had fpread its Fame far and near; the Temple was burnt by Paufaiu 533,
the Perfians, but it was not long e'er it was rebuilt, and fo heap'd with
Riches, that in a very mort Ipace of time there was no room for the Sta-
tues and Pictures. " Verres in his Return from Afia, notwithftanding the
Example of the Tyrrhenians, made no fcruple to rifle this Temple of
whatever was valuable : Cicero very juftly reflects on him for this Impiety.
Neither did the Pirates ftiew any more relpecl: to this Edifice in Pompefs
time. Strabo calls it a great Temple fill'd with Pictures and antique Or-
naments : among which, doubtlefs was that of the Loves of Jupiter and
Juno, reprefented fo natural, that Origen reproaches the Gentiles with it. Lib. 4. tonus
There was likewife in the Temple of Samos a Court or Yard for the Sra- e '
rues, among which were three Coloflus-like by Myron, on the lame Bafe.
Mark Anthony carry'd 'em away, but Augujlus reftored thole of Minerza.
and Hercules, and only lent that of Jupiter to the Capitol, to be placed
in a little Temple he caus'd to be built there.

OF

3 r 8 A Voyage into the Levant.

O F Co many fine things, we found but two Reliques of Columns, and
fome Bafes of the beautifulleft Marble I ever faw. Some years ago the
Turks imagining that one of thele Columns was full of Gold and Silver,
attempted to demolifli it by firing fbme Cannon at it iirom on board
their Gallies : and accordingly damaged it very much.

SOME Bafes of Columns are Hill to be ieen, and look to be fquared
out into a Parellallogram (or long Square) but being intermix'd with fe-
veral Tympanums of demoliih'd Columns, there's no afcertaining the
Difpofition, and confequently the Plan of the whole Edifice, which, ac-
k. h cording to Herodotus, was the third Wonder of Samos : that Author owns

it was the moil fpacious Temple he ever beheld, and, but for him, we
had never known who was the Architect ; he was a Samian, one Rhxcus
by name.

THIS Rh*cus had therein employ'd a very particular Order of Co-
lumns, as may be leen by the Figure. It is indeed neither better nor
worfe than the Ionian Order in its infancy, void of that Beauty it after-
wards acquired. The Bafis of the great Column juft now mention' d is
two foot eight inches high, with a large round Cordon below, an inch
high: the Bale is adorn'd with five annular deep Channellings ; the other
part of this Bale is of the diameter of the Shaft, but it is terminated by
a little Cordon or Edging : this Bafis is pofited on a Pedeftal eight inches
high, girt with five Rings like io many Hoops. There remains but one
fingle Chapiter, which we caus'd to be uncover'd, for it was bury'd in the
Inclolure of the Temple : this Chapiter, which at this time is the only
one in the World of its kind, is one foot feven inches high, and anfwers
to the Profil of its Bafe. Its Tympanum has a large Rouleau one foot
high, on which are cut Eggs in Relief, each within its refpective Bor-
der ; and from the Interfaces of the Borders hang Points like Flames of
Fire. There is a fmall Aftragal below the Rouleau • the Plan which
bears upon the Shaft or Body of the Column, is four foot three inches
diameter, and concludes alio in a finall Aftragal. The Frontifpiece of
the Temple faces the Eaft and the Town of Samos, as may be guefs'd from
the Range of the two Columns mention'd before ; for they range from
North to South. We dug above two foot, to come at the Pedeftal that
fupports the Bafe of the largeft Column, and this Pedeftal bears on a well-

fquarcd

'

/fr/. I.

Ta$.3lS .

. 4 thbttn/i 'aftA*: TOm/rle
of Juste) a£~ Jarruhr.

$

9

*

T>efcription of the IJland of Samos. gip

fquared Piece of Marble, which perhaps was pare of the Steps of the Letter X.
Temple. Standing, as it does, in a bottom, no wonder the Water has in y~/^^/~^-->
fo long a fpace of time brought Earth enough to cover 'em. If thefe
Conjectures are true, the Face of the Temple muft not have been above
24 Toifes long, for there's but that diftancc from the great Column to that
with one Tympanum : however, as we have H(rodotm and Strabo^s word
for it that it was a great Temple, it is highly probable this is but part of' J»no Pro-
thatFace. We muft not be govern'd by the Draught of that Temple, as ,
we find it on the old Medals ; for oftentimes they reprefent different Tem- '' ,Hl.m & »w-
pics under the fame Form, as I my felf have obferv'd in fbme of the 2>-rtempiumejus
v'antj where the Temples of Epbeftes and Samos were of the fame Defign. fim^Su^
A S for the Goddefs, /lie was differently habited, accord i no; to the '" !,abi'11 nu-
parts flie acted : fhe was made to prefide in ' Marriage, in 2 Child-birth, tum: pcftcra
and ' other Accidents natural to Women : but as for the Garb peculiar to ,-,'a tw$inm
each refpective Ceremony, he muft be a better Antiquary than I am, -to [jj "'^"n"
afcertain it. All I know of the matter, is, that the Crefcent or Half- m-}- defalk
Moon on her head, and under her feet, denoted the monthly Influence •junoLuctoa
fhe had on the Fair Sex : whence me was call'd the Goddefs of the 9ud Te^»t.
Months. For thisreafon, perhaps, fhe was reprefented on the Medals mfie».i. juno
this Tfland with Bracelets hanging from her Arms down to her Feet, with V^Kq.utDp.
a Crefcent over all. The Crefcent figuify'd the Months, and the Bracelets Ttus' ,

0 J ' J-ucma, ab to

fhew'd that fhe had taught the Women how to reckon certain Days : as we iuod w l"fm
ftill fee the People of the Eaft caft their Accounts by the Beads of their apild noftros

Bracelets .T«non«n Lu-

Draccicts. cinam in pa-

AFTER all, I know nothing more obfeure than thefe pretended Brace- riendo inv°-

cant, ait Cic.

lets of Jtwo ; for I fee no foundation to believe with * Triftanus, that Mr. \. de

Kat. Deoi
J Dea Mena

what I take for Bracelets fhould be Beards of a Ship's Anchor. Be it as A

'twill, there's no great harm in venturing fometimes into the Ocean of menftruis fluo-
Difcoveries, tho it abounds with Fictions. I therefore propofc it to the Aug. dtcw.
Curious to examine, whether thefe fame Bracelets with a Crefcent oyer De,'['7'c'11'
'em may not be an Attribute of Ju»o, betokening what I have faid above wiqn,
concerning Women, or elfe whether they are only a fort of Ornament 0}' / mITJi of
which lano advis'd 'em to wear : for that Goddefs was the Inventor of ^uguftus w
Drefs, according to St. At ban 'a fins. Numifm.imP.

Rom.

4 Comment.
TRJS-Hift. torn. 1,

320 A Voyage into the Levant.

TRISTANVS has given a Type of a Medal of the Samians, repre-
fenting Juno with a very bare Neck. She has a Tunick reaching to her
feet, with a Girdle very tight about her ; the Folding of the Tunick makes
a ibrt of Apron : her Veil hangs from the top of her Head to the bottom '
s G3&toTa of the Tunick- The ' Reverfe of a Medal in the King's Cabinet, repre-
sents this Veil at its full ftretch, making two Angles on the Hands, one
Angle on the Head, and another at the Heels. I have lome Medals of
Same/, where Juno's Neck is cover'd with a Ibrt of Camail, beneath
which hangs a Tunick with the Girdle placed crofs-wile. The Head of
thefe laft Medals is crown'd with a Hoop refting on each Shoulder, and
lupporting on the top of its Bow a fort of Ornament picked below, widen-
ing above, like a Pyramid revers'd. On one of the Medals in the King's

• n*7t« eivV Cabinet, that Goddefs wears on her Head a " Bonnet fharp-pointed. ter-
iiefych. minated by a Crelcent : on other ! Medals in the fame Cabinet, is feen a
Spanhcim/L kind °f Basket ferving that Goddefs for a Head-Drefs, the other parts of

her Habit refembling our Benedictine Monks. The Head-geer of the
Turkifb Women is very like this of Juno, and makes 'em look very grace-
ful : that Goddefs was undoubtedly the Inventrefs of this becoming Drefs
for the Head, and which our Commodes have fince imitated. Juno, who

* nvKim in prefided at Nuptials, wore a 4 Crown of Cyperus (a fort of Ruih) and of
lib. 14. thofe Flowers call'd by us Immortal : a little Basket was fill'd with 'em, and
cap. 16. ' ? faften'd to the top of the Head ; from hence perhaps comes the cuflom now

in trie in the Levant, of putting Crowns on the Heads of the new-marry'd
cam 1 an. Couple. The Abbot de Camps has a fine Medallion of Maximin, on the
Reverfe whereof is the Temple of Samos, with Juno in the Nuptial Ha-
Athen. ibui. bit, and two Peacocks at her Feet : this Habit differs not from thofe we
have been fpeaking of, and Peacocks are repreiented on it, becaule they
were bred about that Goddefs's Temple, as Birds lacred to her.

BESIDES all thele Medals I have been mentioning, I met with a very
fair one of TranquiMwa, on the Reverie whereof is Meleager, or rather
Gordianm the Husband of that Emprels, who Hew a Wild-Boar in hunt-
ing. In the King's Collection there are more Medals of the fame Type,
and another with the Head of Decieu.

THE third of January we lay within a mile and a half of Cora, in
the Farm of the great Convent of the Virgin : this Farm is but a quarter

of

Description of the I/land of Samos. 321

of a League from the Ruins of a Temple, in a Plain full of Vines, Olive, Letter X.
Mulberry, and Orange-Trees, efpecially about Miles, which is not above ^f^*-*
two miles from the Farm. The firft of February we let out for the great
Convent ten miles from the Farm, and dined there : it is fituated half-way
up agreeable Mountains, cover'd with Holm-Oaks, Pine-Trees, Philarea,
Adrachne ; we found fome Stocks of this Tree with large Fruit ending in
a point ; it mail be defcribed hereafter, as alio a fine fort of Germander
with Betony-Leaves, which grows about the lame place. After we had
eaten Ibme Olives, and drank a Glafs or two of rat-gut Wine, in this
Convent, we went to Pyrgos, a Town feven miles off; the Neighbour-
hood whereof abounds with a fine fort of Cachrys. which at this time Cach/1r)'s ^ieti~

J ' ca, Angelicas

was in flower. The fecond of February we went through Platano, eight folio, Afpho-
miles from Pyrgos, thence by the Convent of St. Elijah four miles off; rli.7njLiei~
that Evening we lay at Neocorio, which is one of the three Villages that lfer*'2>
form the Town of Carlovaffi two miles from the Sea.

THE third of February we took horfe for the great Mountain of Ca-
tabate, which is at the further end of the Ifland : our Guides led us di-
rectly to Marathrocampo, eight miles from Carlovaffi, and we fpent the
Night in St. George's Farm belonging to the Convent of St. John oiPatmos.

THE fourth of February we went to fee the Chappel, or rather the
Hermitage of Our .Lady of fair Appearance, which is four miles off, in a n<°'*?'* ***
Bottom commanded by fbme hideous Rocks : the Solitude is charming,
but the Mouth of the Cavern where the Chappel Hands, is frightful ; you
go up by a Stair-cafe almofr perpendicular. In the bottom of the Cavern
they have cut a beautiful Confervatory of Water, which they draw up
from an amazing Profundity. This Chappel is as homely as the other
Greek Chappels.

OUR Guides cou'd by no means be prevaiPd on to advance farther on
the Mountains ; the Cold was very piercing, and their Mules would have
been ftarv'd with hunger in thofe defart places : fb we return'd to Mara-
throcampo, in order to vifit another Solitude more gloomy than the former,
and very properly named, Our Lady of the Bad Way. We did not get UamjU k«-
thither till next day, after having crofsM over not a few Mountains over- W5*fes**"'
run with Pine-Trees, Broom, and Arbute-Trees : this folitary place gave
us hopes of finding fbme Plants worthy notice.

Vol, L T t THE

Q24 A Voyage into the Levant.

contrary to it : M. Lappazttolo, a Greek by Nation, and Conful of Venice
at Smyrna, never drank any thing but Water, and yet lived to be 118
Years of Age. So that no conclufive Argument can be drawn from the
Ufe of Drinks ; for M. Luppazuolo could not endure even Coffee or
Sherbet : but what redounds more to the honour of his Memory, is, his
having one Daughter 18 Years old, and another 85, without reckoning
a Son, who dy'd near 100 Years old.

W E were prevented by the bluftering of the Weather from narrowly
infpectiiig fome fine forts of Renunculus with a blue Flower : there was
but little Snow on the Mountains the 23d of February, but a great deal
of Hail big as Peas. Thefe Mountains are cover'd with two forts of

Ea*'t«. Pine-Trees ; but there are no Fir-Trees, whatever the Inhabitants lay, who
call by that name a beautiful fort of Pine, which is at Parti in the Parterre
of the Royal Garden, with Leaves about five inches long, and one line
broad, ftifT^ flat on one fide, round on the other : its Fruit is four inches
long, an inch and a half thick, very picked, confuting of very large and
hard Scales, Thefe Pines rife to a great height, and are fit to make Ship-
Mafts ; they yield abundance of Turpentine, but it runs in wafte, tho 'tis

pinus fyivef, very ciear anxj well-looking. The other Pines on thefe Mountains are the

«is, mantima, J "J . " .' .

conis firmiter common fort growing m all hot Countries.

Sbi^B. FROM thek Mountains we crofs'd the Ifland for Cora, where we had
hopes given us of finding fbme antient Infcriptions ; yet we met with no-
thing but a few Epitaphs fince the Chriftian iEra, and thofe in private Houfes.
The Ladies of Cora feeing us fo intent on Plants, brought us one, and caus'd

Thymelza feu us to be ask'd if we knew its Virtues : it was very like that call'd Tarton-

llni7<Ms*i- rA're at Marfeilles. After thanking them for their Nofegay, we caus'd 'em

gemeis. coroi. t0 be told they were in too good a Hate of Health to need the ufe of it.

4*. and that even in France it was never preicribed, but to Perfons of the

ftrongeft Conftitution : they burft into a Fit of Laughter, and pointed to

- their Head-drefs, which our Interpreter told us was to let us know they

made ufe of this Plant to dye their Veils yellow. A moment after, he

fhew'd us two or three of thefe Ladies fweeping their Terrace, and

s*{«j«*'ne^i pointing at their Brooms, to fignify that it was call'd Broom-Herb. When

sTL^'a' tney u^e "- to ^e wit^ tney ca^ tne t0Ps 0^ t^ie ^er^ iflto boiling Wa-
jBroom. ter ; after fbme Bubblings, they add a little ' Alom-Powder, then put in
'^' the

Defcription of the Ijland of Samos. 325

the Linen, Cloth, or Skins, and let 'em foak all night, off the fire : it Letter X.

dyes a very good Yellow, but I'm of opinion a more per fed: Colour might v->r>l/r^^

be made of it by more skilful hands. This Plant differs not from that

on the Coafls of Provence, only its Leaves arc narrower and longer.

M. Wheeler has obferv'd the difference. , Voyage into

THE 24th of February^ maugre the bad Weather, we got to- ^/vGm«)wm.i,
defigning to embark for Scalanova, and fo to pafs to Smyrna ; but we were
detain'd by the continual Rains and contrary Winds at Vati till the middle
of March. It was a little Deluge, nothing but Torrents running down
from the Mountains, which at another time are calcinM in a. manner ;
whence its Name of Samos, i. e. a dry fandy Soil. s<«« quaff

I N the interim we went to fee a handlbme Village call'd Metelinous, E/wa geni-
two miles off Cora. Metelinous took its name from the Iile of Metelin, .,r£ lax de'

' lectatur arena,

being built, or rather rebuilt, by a Colony of Inhabitants of this Ifland, J™, sat. i<5.
transported thither after Sultan Se lint had given Samos to the Captain-Bafhaw
Ochiali. Ever fince that Admiral's death, the Revenue of Samos is appro- Relation of
priated to a Mofque he caus'd to be built ztTopana, one of the Suburbs of voya«e..
Confiantinople : this Mofque ftill bears the name of its Founder, and, the
Suburb that of the Artillery which is caft there ; for Top in Turktfh fignL-
fies a Cannon, and Hana a Houfe : thus Top ana, is an Arfenal or Foundery
for Cannon.

THE Spring of Metilonous is the belt in the Ifland, and mud be one Giganho &>
of thofe two mention'd by Pliny. I make no doubt it was conducted to Natc. hIjl,
the Town of Samos, crofs the Mountain mention'd by Herodotus : this /,^"3*~
Author calls it the great Spring, and the Mountain is between Metelinous
and the Ruins of Samos. The Difpofition of the Places proved perfectly
favourable, the moment they had conquer'd the difficulty of boring it j
but in all probability they were not exact enough, in levelling the ground,
for they were obliged to dig a Canal of twenty Cubits deep,, for carrying
the Spring to the place defign'd : There mud have been fbme miftake in
this PaiTage of Herodotus. Jofeph Georgirene, Biihop of Samos, was no
doubt a very diligent Inquirer into all thefe things ; but the Defcription he
has given of Samos, Nicaria> and Patmos, is fo. fcarce,; tho tranflated out
cf vulgar Greek into. Englifh, that I have not been able to procure if..

* AT

326 A Voyage into the Levant.

AT the corner of the Church of Metelinous before this Spring, is fee
in bread-high an antient Bas-Relief of Marble, perfe&ly fine, which a
Papas found fome years ago, digging up a Field : it is two feet four inches
long, fifteen or fixteen inches high, three inches thick, but lying low
to the ground, the heads of it are extremely batter'd. The Bas-Relief
contains feven Figures, and reprefents the Ceremony of imploring the
Succour of Efculapius in the cale of feme fick Man of Quality : he is fit-
ting up in his Bed, his Head and Breaft rais'd, holding a Pitcher by both
Handles ; the God of Phyfick is leen on his right hand, towards the Bed's-
feet, in the fhape of a Serpent : the Table, which is right againlr. the Pa-
tient, and (landing on three feet like Goats-feet, is fpread with a Pine-
Apple, two Flaggons, and two things like Pyramids placed at each end.
On the right, fits a Woman in an Elbow-Chair with a very high back to
it ; the Drapery of this Figure is very good, and the Sleeves fit pretty
tight : her Face fronts ye, and ihe feems to be giving directions to a He-
Slave clofe by her, and who is habited in a loofe Coat over a Veil. At
the foot of the Bed is another Woman fitting on a low Stool, cover'd
to the ground with Cloth : fhe is habited like her in the Elbow-Chair, but
you only fee her fideways ; this perhaps is the fick Man's Wife, for there
Hands before her a young Child naked, with a Dog fawning about him.
A young She-Slave is alio placed behind this Woman, and is drefs'd in a
Ihort Coat without Sleeves, under which falls a fort of Under-Petticoat
full of Pleats : Ihe reds her left hand on her Breaft, and in her right,
which is eredt, Ihe holds a Heart with the point upwards. Farther off
at the extremity of the Bas-Relief, is feen another He-Slave Hark naked
who with one hand is taking Drugs out of a Mortar, to put 'em in a
Cup which he has in the other hand, and to whom EfcuUpius leems to be
giving order to pour them into the VelTel held by the Patient. Along
the top of the Bas-Relief runs a kind of Border, broken, and divided
into four long fquare Pannels : in the full is reprelented a very fine Head
of a Horfe ; the fecond contains two Flames ; the third is adorn'd with a
Helmet and Cuirafs ; the fourth is broken, and leaves nothing to be leen
but the Rim of a Buckler. Doubtlels thefe Attributes were intended to
fet forth the Inclinations and Employments of the Patient.

WHILE

Defer ipt ion of the Ijland of Samos. 227

WHILE we were confideriug the Beauty or' this Bas-Relief, they Letter X.
prefented us with fome Medals; the bed whereof was that of the famed v-/~v v-'
Pythagoras, who will be for ever an Honour to this Ifland, on account of
the Rank he held among the antient Philoiophers : but I'll be fworn there
are none of his Difciples now left in Samos ; for the Samians are no more
fond of fading, than they're Lovers of Silence. The Medal we are
(peaking of, has the Head of Trajan : Pythagoras is on the Reverie, fitting TPA.IANOC
before a Column, which bears a Globe, on which that Philoibpher feems Legend.
to be pointing to fomething with his Right Hand. The fame Type is in"^®*™;
Tulvim Vrfimu. but Pythagoras refls his Left Hand on the Globe. TheMIQN-

ATTOKPA-

like Medals are alfo feen with the Heads of CaracalU and EtrufcrlU, the thp kai-
fairefl I ever law in the King's Cabinet, ftruck with a Commodus on it, and Kos atph-
on the Reverfe Pythagoras pointing with a Rod to a Star on a Celeitial ^'° 20K0/c"
Globe: this mud be the Star of Venus, which he was the firft Difcoverer bastos.
of, as- we are told by Pliny. Hid. Nat.

O N the left hand of the Spring of Metilonous, is an Infcription whofe I,b* 2' cap" 8*
Characters have the appearance of being well done ; but they are not
now legible : perhaps the Name of the Spring may be pick'd out by fome
abler Heads; perhaps too this Infcription records the Names of thole,
who undertook to convey this beautiful Spring to Samos. This Spring
at prefent, falls into a little Brook, that empties it felf in the Port of

Tigani.

A T length, not knowing how to diipofe of our time, we made an
inquiry among fome of the moll eminent Men of the Ifland, concerning
a pretended Light which the Mariners fancy they fee in the Cape of Sa-
tnos when they're out at Sea, and which is invifible on fhore. Thefe
Doctors allured us, it appear'd in fo deep a place, that no Perlon could be
fufpe&ed to inhabit there, and that this Fire mud needs be miraculous :
for my part, I am perfuaded of the contrary ; and luppofing that any
fuch Fire was ever perceiv'd, I doubt not but it was kindled either by
the Caloyers or Shepherds, partly to divert themfelves, and partly to
preferve the memory of a thing the Papas of the Ifland call a great Miracle. uiy*s s«fy<*.

W E catch'd at a Glance of the Sun, to make our Geographical Re-
marks.

ScaUnova, is between the North- Eaft and Ead.

Cape

528 ^Voyage into the Levant.

Cape Coraca, between the North and North-North-Weft.

Cape Blanc between the North- Weft and the North-North-Weft.

Seh North- Weft.

Patmos between the South and South-South- Weft.

StAgi North.

Ephefus North-Eaft.

The higheft Top of Mycale or Samfon, between the Eaft and Eaft-
South-Eaft.

The Ifle of Arco between the South-South-Weft and the South- Weft.

Gatonifi South.

Cos or StAnchio between the South and the South-South-Eaft.

PaIaua or Miletus South-South-Eaft.
THIS, my Lord, is all I have to fay touching the Ifland of Samos,
We muft return to Port SeitAn-, to give an account of 4our Voyage
to VAtmos. Notwithstanding our Eagernefs to go to Nicaria, we were
fain to tarry in this Port, for want of a fair Wind ; Co we refolv'd to range.
11702. the Coaft and Cape of Samos in the mean time : this Cape is ten miles
from Seitan. Our defign was to enter the greater Boghas, which is be-
tween this Ifland and that call'd the Great Fourni.

.
■Patmos. THEY reckon forty miles from the Cape of Samos to the Ifle of

PAtmoSy now call'd PAtino : we caft anchor in Port de la ScaIa, which is
one of the fineft Ports throughout the Archipelago, and faces the North.
Weft and the Eaft. That of Gricou is likewife an admirable one, it is in
the South-Eaft, and has two Openings form'd by a Rock juft at the En-
trance : one of thefe Openings is turn'd to the South-Eaft, and the other
to the North- Weft. Saj>[iU is another good Port, between that of ScaIa
and Gricouy but expos'd to the North : the Port of DiAcorti, which is in
the South-Eaft of the Ifland, and into which the South and Labech blow
fo as to hinder the coming out, is not fit for Barks, any more than that
of MericA, which is turn'd to the Miftral, and which is on the Weft of
that of Ia ScaIa,

PATMOS is confiderable for its Ports, but its Inhabitants are not
much the better for 'em. The Corfairs have obliged 'em to quit the Town
which was in the Port of Ia ScaIa, and to retire two miles and a half, up
the Hill about St. Jobtfs Convent,

THIS

Pitino.

AY..T.

ISZE of R1THMOS

Fa^Sn 8

Oaite (/"/«■(' /Kile* i/r.< A.

7*

s*

Defer Ipt ion of the Ifland of Patmos. 329

THIS Convent is as a Citadel, confiding of feveral irregular Towc-iS; Letter X.
it is a very fubftantial Building, on a very fteep Rock : we were told, that *-*^"v"*^-»
the Emperor Alexis Comnenes was the Founder of this Monaftery. Its
Chappel is linall, and painted after the Greek manner, than which no-
thing can be more paltry : the Sexton made us pay a Crown for mew-
ing us the Body of St. ChriJtodulttSy that is, Servant of Christ ; they be- 'Aj!ot xe^-
liev'd that it was at this Saint's perfuafion the Emperor caus'd the Home ***
to be built. This good Father for t'other Crown would tain have drawn \
out the Shrine, to let us fee they had the whole Body ; but we had enough
of his Head and Face. This Convent has an Income of 6coo Crowns:
the Church-Plate is very handfome ; but their greateft Rarity of all is
two large Bells over the Gate-way, for in the Levant it is a very extraor-
dinary thing to meet with a large Bell. But the Turks having a Veneration
for St. John, they allow the Caloyers of Patmos the liberty of this ad-
vantage : there are above a hundred Caloyers in this Monaftery, but ge-
nerally not above fixty are refident, the reft are looking after their Farms
in the neighbouring Iflands.

T HE Iile of Patmos is one of the bafeft Rocks in all the Archipelago ;
it is bleak, uncover'd, without Wood, and very barren : it is indeed re-
plenifh'd with Hills and Mountains, the higheft whereof is call'd St.. Eli-
jah. "John Cameniatesy who was one of the Slaves whom the Saracens
made at the taking of Thejfalonica his native Place, and conducted to Can- Ann. 904.
dia. affirms that thele unfortunate Wretches tarry'd fix days at Patmos, *rJ£t*$«^

' •> J ' Id TH 7VTH i-

and had not Water to drink : they might have fared well, had they been ««'£*»» rh
fuffer'd to hunt ; for the Ifland abounds with Partridges, Rabbits, Quails^ ,', j}\*.. cn-
Turtles, Pidgeons, Snipes: it does not produce much Wheat or BarJjey \ dd/Thej&i.
they have their Wine from Santorin, for the Growth of Patmos Icarce "P' 6S#
amounts to 1000 Barrels. They practifc Caprification on the Fig-Trees,
but there arc not many of 'em : fo that the whole Bufincfs of the Iiland
confiftsin the Induftry of the Inhabitants, who with a dozen of Caicks,
or other.fmall Boats, go and fetch Corn on the Terra-firma, and even as
far as the Coafts of the Black Sea, for Cargoes to the French Ships.

THE Ifland of Patmos is but eighteen miles in compais: it may be
reckoii'd twice as much, including all the in-and-out Windings from Cape VMmos ™m

0 D r ru triginta ra

to Cape ; fo that Plinj may be forgiven, for making it thirty miles in cir- 1« paifami.

T7 t t it - Plm.Hift.Nat.

v 01. I. U xi cumicrcncc. ; . . ■ . ■,„. . ; ,

33<

A Voyage into the Levant.

cumference. Patmos is fixty miles diftance from the Ifles of Cos, Sum-
palfa, and My cone ; it is but eighteen miles from hero, and forty five from
pjic&ria.

THERE are hardly 500 Men in Patmos, and to one Man there are at
Ieafl twenty Women : they are naturally pretty, but disfigure themfelves
fo with Paint, they are really frightful ; yet that is far from their Inten-
tion, for ever fince a certain Merchant of Marfeitles inarry'd one of 'em
for her Beauty, they fancy there's not a Stranger comes thither but to
make the like Purchaie. They look'd upon us as very odd Fellows, and
feem'd to be mightily furpriz'd when they were told we only came to fearch
for Plants ', for they imagin'd, on our arrival, we would carry into France
at lead a dozen of Wives. It is ftrange, that in fb poor a Country the
Hoivfes are better built than in the Iflands where there's more Trade:
the Chappels are arch'd over, and very neatly cover'd ; they reckon above
250 of them in the Ifland, yet there were but nine or ten Papas when we
were there, the Plague having fwept away the others, as we were told-
Tho theBifliop of Santos calls himfelf Bilhop of Patmos, yet they fetch
what Bilhop they think fit, when they are minded to confecrare any
Papas.

THE Civil Affairs are managed by two Adminiftrators, chofen every
year ; thefe levy the Capitation, which amounts to 800 Crowns, and the
Land-Tax, which is 200, without including the Prefents that mull: be
made to the Captain-Balhaw and his Officers, when they come to receive
the Grand Signior's Dues. There are neither Turks nor Latins in this
Ifland : the Conlul of France's Office is perform'd by a Greek, tho he has
no Patent or Power for fo doing. He told us, that purely to do the Na-
tion ferviee his Family had taken upon them thar Office for three Genera-
tions from Father to Son, by virtue of an old Parchment- Writing in fome of
our Kings Reign, they know not which ; we judg'd it might be Henry IV.
By fome Accident or other, this Parchment was not to be found when we
defiredto lee it. This fame Conlul is a good lort of Man -r all Strangers
addrefs themlelves to him, and in cafe of need he would take upon him
to be Conlul of all Nations that come thither : he lofes nothing by it ; for
if we were well received in his Houfe, it colt us more than it would have
done any where elfe. They don't fpeak French at his Houfe, but Hammer

* *

AV. /.

Tay.33o.

+ -+- 'Jru iVu/iAj of y JiwA iArv n'6/M. y fi&/y iffo/h is /hid to Aav* dJ4€&&&&(- £0 SrJ<?/?si-

Defcription of the Ifland of Patmos. 33 r

a fort of Provenfal ; and as the Inhabitants of the Ifland are all of the Letter X.

Greek Rite, we had pafs'd our time but very ill with them, had not the ^"v******

Ladies reforted hither to us, under pretence of picking and cleanfing the

Plants we brought from out of the Country. There arc not any Reliques

of note in this Ifland ; only three or four Stumps of Marble Columns in

the Port of la Scda : they feem to be of a good defign, and are certainly

the antientefl in the Archipelago, where they have long fince forborn amu-

fing themfelves with fuch things : it is not unlikely thefe are the Relicks

of lbme Temple of the chief Town which bore the Name of the Ifland,

according to Galen's Remark. In the Porch of St. John's Church, there's

an Infcription, but Time has render'd it illegible, as it has another in

the Nave.

THE Houfe call'd the Apocalyfpe is a poor Hermitage, depending on AnoKA-
the great Convent of St. John. The Superior has given it for Life, for 200
Crowns, to an antient Bifliop of Samos, who received us very civilly : this
is thought to be the Place where St. John wrote the Revelations ; perhaps
fo, for that Holy Evangelift fays it was in the Ifland of Patmos, whither
he was baninVd in the Perfecution of Domitian, which began Anno 95. Ghrcx Ann-
after Chrift. The fame Year St. John was dipt into a Cauldron of boil- JJ^ Ann.
ing Oil at Rome, and then banifiYd to Patmos. The next Year Domitian 1,b- ll-
was kill'd on the 18th of September, a Year after the Baniihment ofp^cLHift!
St. John : but the Senate having annull'd what he had done, Nerva re-
call'd all thofe that were banifh'd ; and thus that Evangelift return'd to
Ephefus in February or March, Anno 97. and his Exile lafted but eighteen
Months. The Author of the Chronkon Pafchale makes St. John continue
in Patmos fifteen Years, and St. Iren<ew fixes it at five Years. St. Fitfo- Biblioth. Patr.
rinus Bifliop of Pettau, and Primatius a Bifliop in Africa, affirm St. John to fr"1,'^'^79'
have been lent to Patmos, to work in certain Mines there, now unknown. Comment, in

THE Hermitage of the Apocalypfe is on the fide of a Mountain fitua- P°C
ted between the Convent and the Port de la Scala. The way to it is very
narrow, cut half-way in the Rock, and leads to the Chappel ; this Chap-
pel is not above eight or nine paces long, and five broad; the Arch -Work,
tho of the Gothick, is pretty enough : on the right is St. John's Grotto,
the Entrance whereof is about feven foot high, with a fquare Pillar in
the middle. Over-head they fliew Strangers a TilTure or Chink in the

U u 2 quick

gas A Vo y a g e zWo *Af Levant.

quick Rock, through which, they tell ye, the Holy Ghoft dictated to
St. John, when he wrote the Apocalypfe : the Grotto is low, and has no-
thing remarkable. The Superior prefenting us with fome pieces of this
Rock, aflured us they had the Virtue to expel evil Spirits, and cure di-
vers and iiindry Difeafes ; in return, I gave him fome PiluU Febrifuge
which he had no little occafion for, to expel an Ague that had hung upon
him fome months.

W E went once more to the grand Convent of St. John, to make a
Geographical Station;

Lero is between the South-Eaft and Eaft-South-Eaft

Lipfo Eaft.

Calimno South-Eaft.

Auaria North-Weft.

Jrco between the North-Eaft and Eaft-North-Eaft. •

WE departed from Patmos the 15th of February in moft ferene Wea*
ther, which at this time of the Year is much to be fuipe&ed, being ge-
nerally a Prognoftick of a Storm ; our Defign was to pafs over to Nic&-
Skoc ria : the South-Eaft was fo bluftering, we were obliged to put in at St. Mi-

'A*"z&*lur- f}ai> one °^ tne *^cs °^ F°urf2h where we happily arrived about Evening.
tyr,_u-bofe Nex-t day the Wind increafing, we went a fimpling through a Storm of
celebrate on Rain, Hail, Thunder and Lightning ; and in the Evening return'd, laden
Becemb, 10. ^^ curjous piants . buC as there are no Caverns in this IfJand, or ar

leaft none that we could find, our Seamen,, to lecurcus from the Weather?
had bufy'd themfelves all the day in taking to pieces an old French Bark
that had been lately caft on the more by a Tempeft. With the Remains
of this Veffel we eredted a lorry Hut, which let in the Rain on all fides ;
and what was ft ill worle, a Hidden Guft of Wind over-fet our Edifice,
when we thought our lelves mod lecure. We were forced once more to
let it up, with huge Stones placed on it, to prevent the like Difafter-:
weftopt theDoon-way with the Sail of our Caick, but were under con-
tinual apprehenfion of having our Roof of Planks bore away by a Hur-
ricane, and our Brains beat out by the Stones.

THE third day, which was Febr. 17. having nothing to eat but Bif-
ket, nor to drink but Rain-Water, which pour'd down from the Rocks

full

Defcription of the IJlands of .Fourni. jaj

foil of Mild, we made an Eflay to get aboard, and had like to have been Letter X.
fwallow'd up by the Sea; the Billows whereof taking our Caick in flank,***"^^
very near turn'd it Keel upward more than once, notwithstanding our
Sail, which was of little ufe to us againfl the Fury of the Wind. You
may be fure we were not very ealy in a Boat but fifteen foot long, with
three ignorant Fellows to manage it, and who were almoft frighted out
of their wits : one row'd, another fteerM, the third ply'd the Sail;
while we empty'd out the Water with our Hats.

OUR Fear redoubled at the. fight of lome Citrons which came floaw
ing on the Water, in. token of a Shipwreck; which happen'd to be of
a large Caick, withibme of whofe Crew we had been drinking the day
before. They trailed to the Goodnefs of their Veflel, being quite new ;
but having, no Compafs, any more than we had, and not having a clear
fight of. the Cape ©f Samos, they fplit on the Rocks. We then held a
Council, and after mature Deliberation, mftead of going to Nicaria, W4
thought our befl way would be to double the Cape of Samos ; as good>
luck would have it, we gain'd the North of the Ifland, where we found
the Sea as fmooth as Oil, according to the Seamens Phrafe in a Calms.
We call anchor at Carlovajji, . and fent for lbme Papas to come and fay Mais
in way of Thanklgiving.

THE Ifle of St. Mm as is in the grand Boghas between Samos and
Nicaria, below the grand Fourni : all the Ifles to the Leeward are calFd
Fourni, becauie the Greeks, as we faid before, fancy their Ports, which
are better than ordinary, to be fhaped like an Oven. Thefe Iflandsi are
calPd by the Geographers Cruftar Tragia, Dipfo, Ponelli ; but the Greeks
know nothing. of theie Names:, at leaft our Sailors, tho Natives of the
Place, never heard of any fuch. True it is, there's an Ifland call'd L/pj6
eight miles from Patmos, and confequently a good diftance from the :
Iflands of Fourni^ Thofe neareft the grand Boghas, are the grand. Fourni,
St. Minos, or the little Fourni, Fimena : the. others are Jlacbopetra, Prafa-
nifi, Coucounes, Airopofages, Agnid.ro,. Strongylo, Daxalo, and many more -
which have no name, making in all about eighteen or twenty, but not
any one of 'em inhabited.

THAT of St. Minas is not above five or fix miles in compafs ; it is
in form like an Afs's Back,, and confifts as one may fay of two parts ; that

facing; .

33+

A *Vo y A g e into the Levant.

facing Patmos is of ordinary Stone, cover' d over with Mould and Under-
wood ; the other, which feems to be glued to it, is of the moll: uncom-
mon Marble I ever faw : and 'tis in the Chinks of this Marble where the
convolvulus belt Hants of the Ifland grow ; among others, the Liferon, (Bind-weed)
Sra™' .* Shrub with Leaves filver'd o'er, like thofe of the Olive.
ms.Mfi.sti MOST of the other Iflands are long, narrow, and travcrs'd through
iiorycnium. with a Ridge of Mountains : Candia, Samos, Nicaria, Patmos, Macronifi,
JS"! f"'' arc of this form. It feems as if the lower Country being of a moveable
Foundation had been gradually carry'd away by the Sea, and nothing left
but the Ruins of the Mountains which refilled the Force of the Waves.

t5-K?p.os. l SHOULD here conclude my Account of the Archipelago, but that
1 lBuft intreat a few more moments of your Lordfhip's Attention in favour
of Thefeus and Achilles, fo far as concerns the Ifland of Skyros • where the
former was bury'd, and the latter made love : tho it is very remote from
Samos, and we faw it not till our Return from Smyrna to Marjeilles, yet
I'm apt to think it would be better to fpeak here of it, than to feparate it
! SL«:h. from the other Illands of the Archipelago. The' PeUfgtms and the Ca-

rinas were the firft Inhabitants of Skyros ; but we find it not in Hiftory,
s pimaioh. in before the Reign of Lycomed.es, who ruled there when 2 Thefeus King of
Th?£ Athens retired thither to enjoy the EolTeffions of his Father. The f us not

only demanded the Reftitution of his Patrimony, but liied for Aid of the
King, againft the Athenians : but Lycomedes, either through apprehenfion
of that Great Man's fuperior Genius, or becaufe he would not fall out
with Mnefiheus, who had forced him from Athens, led Thefeus to the top
of a Rock, under pretext of fhewing him his Father's Lands ; but Hiftory
records, he caus'd him to be call head-long from the Rock. Some fay
Thefeus fell off* accidentally, as he was taking the Air after Supper : be it
as 'twill, his Children, whom he had fent into the Ifland Eubea, went to
the War of Troy, and reign'd at Athens after the death of Mnefiheus.
Rer. Geog. THE Ifle of Skyros became famous, fays Strabo, by the Alliance
^Eneid. ?T which Achilles flruck up there with Lycomedes, by Marriage with Deidamia
nmit rufus. n*s Daughter, by whom he had Neoptolemus, call'd Pyrrhus on account of
his yellow Hair. He was bred in the Ifland, from whence he drew the beft
Soldiers that he carry'd to the War of Troy, to revenge his Father's Death.

The

/■U~r.

1/U of
SKYROS

Jh^ .334.

Defer iption of the Ifland of Skyros. 335

The People of this Ifland were very warlike : Pallas was the Protectrefs Letter X.
of the Country ; her Temple flood on the edge of the Sea, in the Town p^jnQ^
that bore the fame Name with the Ifland. Of that Temple, there ftillce,el?l'abatSk>_

1 _ ros nonoram

remain fbme bits of Columns, and Cornifhes of white Marble clofe by a Fo«e diem.
forfaken Chappel, on the left hand going into Port St. George : we could utdi /,-//,',*
find no Infcription, but by the old Foundations and the Beauty of the ^&i nm
Port, we may be pretty fure the Town flood there. If they be not «feS>.3< Up. 13!
Relicks of the Temple of Pallas, they are at leafl thofe of that of Nep-
tune, who was worfhip'd here. Goltzius has given the Type of a Me- SKtppiaw,
dal, with Neptune holding his Trident on one fide, and on the other the
Prow of a Ship.

AFTER the War of Troy, the Athenians perform'd great Honours to
the Memory of Thefeus, and recogniz'd him for a Hero; nay, they were Plutarch. ia--i
commanded by the Oracle to gather up his Bones, and preferve them
with reverence. Marcian of Heraclea affirms that the People of Chalcis,
the Capital of Eubea, fettled themfelves at Skyros, being allured 'tis like by
the Convenience of its Port. Going through this Ifland, I bought a ;
filver Medal, which was fbme years ago dug up among the Ruins of the
Town as they were at plough ; it is flruck in the name of the Chalcidians,
who tho Inhabitants of Skyros, yet retain'd the Name of their own
Country, to diflinguifh themfelves from the Pelafgians, the Dolopes, and
others who were come and fettled at Skyros i this Medal is flamp'd with
> beautiful Head, but whofe I know not, the Name being quite worn
away ; on the Reverfe is a Lyre. This Piece bearing the Name of the
Chalcidians, one would not believe it to have been flruck at Skyros, had it xAAxfot.
not been dug up there. iiN*

NOW Pm fpeaking of the Dolopes, Plutarch takes notice of 'em as %?yl-mi kzm)
forry Husbandmen, but eminent Pirates, whole common practice it was mcimon?"
to rifle and imprifon fuch as came to traffick with 'em. Some of thefe
Villains having been fentenced to reflore their ill-gotten Goods to the
Merchants of The J] "aly, to avoid doing it, they fignify'd to Cimon, SbAThtaydiiib.j.i
of Mihiades, that they would furrender to him the City of Skyros, if he
would but come before it with his Fleet : by which means he became
Mailer of the Place. Diodorus Skulks adds, that in this Expedition the Bfbiioth. wttjA

Ifland ,ib'li'

^6 A Voyage into the Levant.

Ifland was caft lots for, and that the Pelafgians heretofore poflefs'd it con-
jointly with the Dolopes.

CI MO N ufed his utmoft: endeavours to find out where they had bury'd
the Bones of Thefeus : at length an Eagle was feen fcratching the Earth
with his Beak and Talons on a fmall Hillock ; which moved 'em to fearch
the fame place, where they found the Coffin of a tall proper Man, with
his Sword and Pike lying by him : this was enough. Plutarch (in his
Life of Thefeus) does not lay whether they were the Arms of an Athenian,
a Carian, a Pelafgian, or a Dolopian. They made no further fearch, but
lent away this Coffin to Athens 400 years after that Hero's death. The
Remains of fo great a Man were received with great Demonftrations of
Joy ; they even offer' d Sacrifices on that occafion : the Coffin or Bier
was placed in the heart of the City, and ferv'd for an Afylum to Of-
fenders.

SKJTROS was wrefted out of the hands of the Athenians during their
Bickerings with their Neighbours ; but it was reftored to 'em, by that fa-
mous Peace which Artaxer xes King of Per fa, gave to Greece, on the Solii-
citation of the Lacedemonians , who deputed Antalcidas to him to obtain
it. After the death of Alexander the Great, Demetrius the full of the
nokiHKnri* Name, call'd the Town-Taker, refolv'd to refcue the Towns of Greece, took

DioJ.Sic. Bib- ' '

liotii. Hiit. that of Skyros, and turn'd out the Garifon.

o. p. 2 'TWER/E needlefs to mention that this Ifland was reduced to the
Du Cange Obedience of the Roman Empire, and then to that of the Greeks* An-

Hill, of the 1 1 /- 1 1

Emp.ofce»/?. drew and Jerom Gizi reduced Skyros, after the taking of Confiantinople by
HtfWy of the the Frew// and Venetians: the Dukes of Naxia at length poiTeis'd them-

Dufces of the ° *

Mchipeiap. felves of it. William Carcerio made a Conqueft of it, and left it to his
Defcendants : his Grandfon Nicholas Carcerio, the ninth Duke of the Ar-
chipelago, caus'd the Caftle to be fortify'd with the utmoit care, on advice
that the Turks had an intention to feize it : and indeed they did make a
Deicent, but were ihamefully beat ofT About the Town are flill to be
feen the Ruins of thofe Fortifications, which the Mahometans, who are
now Matters of the Place, have let run to decay.

'TIS obvious why this Ifland was call'd Skjros {i.e. rugged) by .the
Antients, the whole Country being thick-fct with Mountains : nor is it
lurprizing, that in Strafo's time its Goats were more valu'd than thole of

any

Defcription of the IJland of Skyros. 337

any other Ifland ; for thofe Creatures delight in SteepnefTcs, and will Letter X.

browze on the fharpeft Point of the higheft Rock. The fame Author

too praifes the Metals and Marble of this Country, but at prefent there

are no Mines that they know of in this Ifland ; and for their Goats,

we law no difference between them and thofe we had met with elfewhere .

we ate in Skyros excellent Cheele, made of thele Goats Milk mix'd with

fome Sheep's. This Ifland, tho every where bridling up with fharp-

rais'd Hills, is very agreeable, and well-manured for the lew People it

contains; there not being above 300 Families in it, tho it meafures fixty

miles in circumference.

THE Inhabitants pay 5000 Crowns a year to the Grand Signior, in
lieu of all forts of Impofrs : they have enough Wheat and Barley for their
Subfiflence ; the French themfelves come thither fometimes for thele forts
of Grain. The Vines make the Beauty of the Ifland : their Wine is ex-
cellent and cheap enough ; a Crown a Barrel : great quantities are tranf-
ported to the Venetian Army in the Morea. As for Wax, they fcarce ga-
ther a hundred Quintals. There's no want of Wood, as in the other
Klands : befides Copfes of Holm-Oak, Lentisk, Myrtle, drc. we were
told there were beautiful Pines. Skyros is the only Ifland I know of, that
produces Eleagn/ts's ; they are in the Plain going from Port St. George to
the Village.

THE 18th of April 1702, the South-Eaft Wind, attended with a Storm
of Hail and Rain, forced us into that Port ; which is a very good one,
as is likewile another call'd the Port of three Mouths.

THERE'S but one Village in all Skyros, and that on a Rock running
up like a Sugar-Loaf, ten miles from the Port of St. George. The Mo-
naftery, which bears that Saint's Name, makes the fineft part of this Vil-
lage, tho it has not above five or fix Caloyers, who carefully preferve an
Image of Silver, on a very thin Leaf, on which there is a coarle Repre-
lentation of St. George's Miracles : this Leaf, which is about four foot
deep, and two broad, is nail'd on a piece of Wood which has a Handle
to it like a Crucifix, and which they carry as they do a Banner. They
pretend this Image efcaped the Fury of the Iconoclajies, and alio performs
great Miracles daily, cxercifing particular Severities on inch as neglect to
fulfil the Vows made to Si. George. There are not greater lmpoftors in
Vol. I. Xx the

qc$8 ^f Voyage into the Levant.

the world than the Greeks : Hear what they would have made Father Sanger
wftory of the belie ve concerning this matter. " This Image, {ays he, painted very
ArMpiage* " bunglingly on a Log of Wood, is placed over the great Altar of the
" Cathedral dedicated to St. George, and ferv'd by Schifmaticks. When
" the Church is full of People, the Image is feen to move of it felf; and
" notwithstanding its heavinefs, will tranfport it felf through the Air
M into the midft of the AfTembly : among whom, if there chances to be
" one that has fail'd to perform his Vows, the Image fingles him our,
" iquats it felf on his fhoulders, where it flicks dole, and plies him
" with furious BufTetings, till he pays what he owes to the Church. The
" Cream of the Jeft is, the Image is not only endu'd with this Virtue
" within the narrow Limits of the Church, but generally throughout
" the whole Ifland, where it will go and unkennel a Man in the moft
" fecret Lurking-place. It goes its rounds in an extraordinary manner ; a
" blind Monk carries it on his moulders ; the Image all the while, by
" an occult Impreflion, directing him where he mall go : the Debtor
" feeing 'em coming, makes off^ you may be lure, as fall as he can ; but
" all to no purpofe : let him dodge and play at bo-peep as much as he
u pleafes, the Monk is fteddy in his purfuit, afcends, defcends, palTes,
" repafles, enters all places ; foon as ever he finds his Man, the Image
" leaps on his neck to rights, and fb belabours him, that fome have told
" me they thought the poor Wretch would be murder'd."

WITHOUT having recourfe to Magick, as does Father Sanger, the
befl way is flatly to deny the Facl:, as we did, when they would have
paum'd thefe Impertinences on us. A very honeft Gentleman, in com-
pany with us, had a mind to convince himfelf of the thing, and pro-
mifed St. George ten Crown-pieces, with an intention never to pay him :
in our return back, we went to the Church, to fee if the blind Image-
Porter with his Burden would come and claim his Promife, or knock him
down for Non-performance ; but, Heaven be prais'd, both Image and
Image-bearer happen'd to be out of the fpleen that day.

FATHER Sanger was likewife mif-inform'd as to the Nature of the
Image : it is not painted, but only carv'd on a Plate of Silver, which the
more ftirpriz'd us, becaufe fuch fort of Sculptures are an Abomination to
the Greeks. The Chappel where it is kept, is very fmall, adorn'd with

Gildings

Defcription of the IJland of Sky ros. 339

Gildings after the Greek Mode : the Convent is very nafty, but we drank Letter X.
admirable red Wine there. It is certain we did not (mart for our Curiofi- '
ty and the Monks feeing by our Countenances that we were not over-
burden'd with Credulity, only laugh'd at our Queftions ; but (till (luck to
their main Point, of not promifing any thing to the Image, unlefs a
Man has a Will and the Means to be as good as his word. We aflcnted
to this Propofition, and commended their Devotion to St. George, ab-
ftra&ed from their Knavery.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are all of the Greek Communion :
they have another Monaftery call'd after the name of St. Demetrius, but
it is a beggarly one ; that of St. George belongs to the Caloyers of St. Lau-
ra, who live at Monte-Santo, and who depute none of the fimpleft among
the Fraternity, to keep up the People's Zeal for St. George .- they take
particular care to inftrudt the Monk that's blind, or pretends to be fo.

THE Cadi is the only Turk on the Ifland : the Adminiftrators are ob-
liged to ranfomhim, if the Corfairs mould chance to kidnap, him. The
Cadi is very pafllve, and acts e'en as the Adminiftrators would have him :
thefe latter are three in number, and chofen once a year ; they exercifc
Uriel: Juftice, efpecially on leud Women. When any fuch are caught in
the Fact, be they fair or be they foul, they mount her on the back of a
She-Afs, and make her ride through the Town, while every body has a
fling at her, fome with Mud, fome with Cow-dung, others with rotten
Eggs, and the like.

THE Bifhop of Skyros is very indigent, he lives in a manner upon
Charity, and is lodg'd in a Dungeon rather than a Houle. A Man may
live very cheap in this Ifland ; you may have a good fat Sheep for forty
Pence, and Lambs for half that price : there's plenty of Wild- Fowl, of
every kind and fort, efpecially Partridges. Their Water is admirable, and
every Rock affords a Spring : the Brook that empties it felf into Port
St. George, is very pretty ; when the Ships take in a Provifion of frefh
Water, they fend their Boats to more, and convey the Water into Barrels
through a Leather Pipe.

I am, &c

1
X x 2 LET-

C 34°)

# * * * * v 4 <»4 ##$#$#^##&##s!?&<*w£^ 3? <# <& * ## <£ 4? & * s#

■

LETTER XI.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, <3ee.

My Lo r d>
Defection of |j|§|||i||p E let fail for Conjlantinople the 15th of March 1701, from rhe
/A* Darda- ^HwlS *>orC °^ ^f r* m rne South part of the Ifland of Metelm i
neiies, of the i||U-J|lj having a fair Wind, we in a few hours sot fight of Tenedos,

Cities o/Galli- :lfflji|8gg||@/|3 s .

poii and Con- sSSsss^"—3 between which and Troas we pafs'd, and in a few hours
more, enter'd that famous Canal, which feparates the two faireft Quar-
ters of the Earth, Europe and Afta : 'tis call'd the Hellefpont, the Strait
of Gallipoli, the Canal of the Dardanelles, the Arm -of St. George, the
Mouths of Conjlantinople ; the Turks know it by the name of Boghas,
or Strait of the White Sea.

THE Hellefpont, every one knows, fignifies the Sea of Helle ; for the

Er fatisamifla, Antients believed that a Daughter of At ham as King of Thebes, whole

mis ab Helle. Name was Helle, was drown'd therein as flie was going to Colchis with her

Ve'ai'tL^d' Brother Phryxus, to carry the Golden Fleece. According to all appea-

utron, ranee, the Name of Dardanelles comes from Dardane, an antient City not

far off it, and would have been bury'd in oblivion, but for the Peace

Plutarch, in which was there concluded between Mithridates and SjlU General of the

Roman Army : this Strait was call'd the Arm of St. George, on occafion

rise/san*- of a Village beyond Gallipoli, call'd Peri/la/is, where there's a famous

Church of St. George, much refpedted by the Greeks.

THE Canal is in a fine Country, bounded on each fide with fruitful
Hills, on which you fee lbmetimes Vineyards, fbmetimes Olive- Planta-
tions,

-^~U ...

/<>.•.-./"//;.'//>•/ ///v/- t',is//y ,w //<* -i/ia/isA tied**

/</<•<■ ,>/' ///<■ /f/:-r //*//■ ///..//' .'// *S&? /'//nyj,\ifi Jiife

'W.'+jL:

De/cripti
the Stra.
the Dan
nelles, o
Cities of
poli ant
ihntinoj

Er fatis
locus hi
mis ab I
Ovid. 1
JLtand.
Heron.

Plutarc
Syll.

n<e/f

Defcription of the Strait of the Dardanelles. 34. r

tioiis, and a deal of arable Land. As you go in, you leave Thrace and Letter XF.
' Cape Greek on the left hand ; Phrygia and ' Cape ^aniffari on the right : , f^^*
the Propontis, or Sea of Marmara, prelents it felf on the North ; the Ar- lkln' Maftufo.
chipelago remains in the South. The Mouth of the Canal is four miles/;,. 4. cap. 1 %'.
and a half over : it is defended by the new Caftles which Mahomet IV. cap'eh.'TiLd!
built there in i6<o, to fecure his Fleet from the Infults of the Venetians. m«W« «-

r ' KQcf.. Ptol. lib.

who ufed to come and attack it in fight of the old Caftles. The Generals 3. cap. 12.
Morofini, Bemfo, Mocenigo, fignaliz'd themfelves here more than once, A€°feiy, ^^
during the Candian War. .' '3"

Pi'omonto-

THE Waters that pais through this Canal, from out of the Propoxt is, rium Sig*uin.
are as rapid as if they flow'd beneath a Bridge : when the North Wind sw^L*.
blows, no Ship can enter; but when 'tis South, you hardly perceive any j^-^-^
Current at all : only beware of the Caftles. indefumuHei-

AND yet this PafTage might be forced without much danger, the marTmcum-
Caftles being above four miles afunder : the Turkijb Artillery, however fW^
monftrous they look, would not much annoy the Ships, if they had di=ns> donec

3 ' 11 Afinm abrum-

a good Wind, and went in a file. The Port-holes of the Cannon be- pat Europe.
longing to thefe Caftles, look like Coach-houfe Doors ; but the Cannon, ub^Hfa^t
which are the largeft I ever beheld, not being fet on Carriages, can't fire
above once. And who would dare to charge 'em in the prefence of
Ships of War, that would pour in fuch Broadfides upon 'em, as would
foon demolifh the Walls of the Caftles which are not terrafs'd, and bury
beneath their Ruins both Guns and Gunners? half a dozen Bombs would
do the bufineis.

SUCH Merchant-Ships as come from Conftantinople, flop three days
at the Caftle of the Jfian fide, to befearch'd whether they have any of
the Turks Slaves on board ; and yet there pafTes not a day, but lbme or
other of thefe poor Creatures make a fhift to efcape : no Ship of War,
of whatever Nation,, is exempted from being thus vifited, without ex-
prefs Order from the Porte ; it's true, 'tis rather a Ceremony than a-Searclv

THE Geographers are generally of opinion, that the Caftles of the
Dardanelles are built on the Ruins of Sejlos and Jhjdos, two antient Abydos magni.
Towns famed for the Loves of Hero and Leander ; but they are ffldaiimoris comt
feftly miftaken, for the Caftles are dire&ly oppofite to each other, where^- . ™crcio in%n»>
as thofe two Towns were fituated very differently : Sejlos was fo far ad- **«>■«*. lib. 1*

vanced '9*

342 A Vo y a g e into the Levant.

Rer. Geog. vanced towards the Propontis, that Strabo reckons 3750 paces from the

lib 12

Hciod. lib. 7. P°rt of ^J^ t0 tnat °f 5e/w. Leander muft have been a (lout Blade
to fwira fuch a length to fee his Miftrefs ; and accordingly he is repre-
fented on the Medals of CaracalL and Alexander Severus, as conducted by
a Cupid flying before him with a Torch, no lefs an Affiflance to him than
the Beacon his Miftrefs took care ihould be kindled on the top of the
Tower where (he ufed to wait his coming : a Man muft be no Milk-fop,
to make love in that (brt. Stra.bo's Account of the Situation of Sejlos and
Abydos, is our beft Rule to go by : not only (b, but there are no Remnants
of Antiquity near the Caftles, and the narrowed; place of the Canal is
three miles further, on the fide of Ma.it a in Europe. There are dill to be
ieen alfo (bme remarkable Foundations and old ruinous Buildings on the
Jjia fide, where Abydos flood.
XERXES, whofe Father caus'd that Town to be burnt, to cut off

Kerod. ibid, from the Scythians an Entrance into Aft a. Minor, judicioufly chofe this
Strait to pafs his Army over into Greece ; for Strabo writes, that where he
made his Bridge, 'twas about a mite over. Out of a ridiculous Vanity,
as if he had a mind to lord it over the Elements, that Monarch order'd
300 Ladies to be given to the Sea, and a Pair of Hand-Fetters to be cad:
into it, for its daring to break down the firft Bridge he laid over it : the
Workmen fared worfe, for they had their Heads flruck off. Some days
after this, Xerxes being defirous to reconcile himfelf with the Sea, made
Libations to it out of a golden Bottle, and befbught the Sun to remove
the Obftacles that impeded his fubduing all Europe : the Bottle was thrown
into the Canal, with a gold Cup and a Scymeter. I cannot determine,
lays Herodotus, from whom we learn this Ceremony ; whether Xerxes
by calling thefe things into the Water, meant it as a Sacrifice to the Sun
or whether out of Compunction of Mind, for caufing it to be fcourg'd
he fought by his Offerings to make amends for the Outrage he thought he
had done to it.

DeBofph. M. GILLES thinks, that the Greek Poets father'd this Folly on

cap. 12. Xerxes, and that Herodotus took the thing too ferioufly : the 300 Ladies
according to M. Gilles, betoken fo many Anchors, which they had cafl
into the Sea to fix the Ships that ferv'd toward the building this fecond

% Bridge ;

343

.etterXI.

<u I

jiLZ.

Sraca rf'

rrian. lib.r.
! Exped.Alex.

Herod, ibid.

Bibliotli. lib.

p.irt 2.
In Panathe*

ic.

Var. Hift.
>. 13. cap. 3,
In Themift.

\nna1.Sultam
fmen. 8c
ft. Muflulm.

;rod,

menlic lfTar,
/orry Town
1 miles from
Jlipoti.

Uhe fftdsOzJtb oh y\A/taiLck Side.

Wis tVJ tajtit- an // Sifc&xreezn .'/</<'

1 imiii t

Defer Iption of the Strait of the Dardanelles. 343

Bridge; and by the Pair of Fetters is defign'd the two Iron Chains that Letter XL
falTen'd 'em together at both ends, and on each fide. ^>~v->w

OVER this fecond Bridge, within the compafs of feven days and feven taian. iii-.r.
nights, march'd Seventeen Hundred Thoufand Foot-Soldiers, according e X¥eu,Akx'
to ' Herodotus, and Fourfcore Thoufand Horfe, exclufive of the Camels ' Herod, ibid.
and Carriages : * Diodorm Stculm fays, but Eight Hundred Thoufand ' Biblioth. lib.
Foot; ' lfocrates, not fo many by a Hundred Thoufand ; 4 AHianus holds >i„ p'an^;ie.
to this Number for all the Troops together, Horfe and Foot ; Jujlin and "a,c*
Orofius add thereto Three Hundred Thoufand Auxiliaries : laftly, s Come- lib. 13. cap^g.
lius Nepos fixes the Infantry at Seven Hundred Thoufand, but increafes' lnThemi{i
the Cavalry to Four Hundred Thoufand.

THE Turks, when they made their firfl Incurfions over this Canal,
came very fhort of fiich Numbers ; but before we fpeak of that, 'tis good
to obferve that Parmenlo was order'd by Alexander the Great to tranfport
his Cavalry, and moft of the Infantry, from Sefios to Abydos, for which
Service they employ'd 160 Gallies, befides Ships of Burden. Chalcon-
dylu-s affirms, that under the Ottoman Empire 8000 Turks took, as i&
were, a Leap over the Hellefpont, and penetrated beyond the Danube,
where they were repulsM by the Scythians, and forced back into Afia •
while the Emperors of Confiantinople, Andronicus the old and the young,
of the Family of the Paleologi, were ruining the Empire by their Divifion :
the Mujfulmans however were not fo totally expelFd, but that there ftill
remain'd behind fbme of 'em, particularly in Thrace, whither they after-
wards drew greater numbers under Solyman the Son of Orcan.

ACCORDING to" Leunclavius, it was five miles from the Darda- s Annahsuitam
nelles, where this Transfretation was perform'd ; for he fuppofes that Hrft. Mu&ha.
1 Malta is but three miles diflance therefrom, on the Europe fide ; and he ' M*^«-

Herod.

places, two miles from Malta, the Cattle of 8 Zjmen/c, where the Turks' yle,A^T0\.
landed. Solyman walking one day along the Borders of Phrygla, which a'^fV^'
he had newly conquer'd, was fo ftruck with the Ruins of Troy, that he 2° «#«/«»
fuddenly fell into a profound Meditation, ^ufuph Ezes Bey, one of his
principal Officers, could not forbear asking him the occafion of it : I
would (faid Solyman) gladly crofs the Sea to Greece, without the privi-
ty of the Chriftians. Ezes, to pleafure him, puts himfelf into a Boat
with but one Friend, and off he goes to the Europe fide, where he feizes

and

344-

Hift. MuflTulm.
lib. 4.

A Voyage into the Levant.

and carries back a Greek to his Mafter, who treated him fo well, that he
undertook to mew that Prince the Ihorteft way to enter Greece by Health.
Seven or eight hundred pick'd Soldiers being carry'd over by night, the
Prilbner led them directly to theCaftle of Zjmenic, where they met with
no refiftance, the Inhabitants being buiy'd about their Harveft, and the
CafUe almoft bury'd under huge heaps of dung. The Turks, far from
mal-treating the People, exprefs'd the greatefl: Love to them, and gave
'em Prefents ; they did indeed fend away a few Prilbners to Solyman, to
aflure him of the Place's being taken : ihortly after, the Cavalry repair'd
thither likewife. At length Ga/lipoli was attack'd and taken, Anno 1357.
Soljman died the fame Year with a Fall from his Horfe in hunting. Qr-
cm furvived him but two months : he was fucceeded by Mourat, his fecond
Son, who took Jdrianople in 1360, and made it the Capital Seat of his
Empire in Europe, as Prufa was in AJia.

I HAVE been often told at Conjlxntinople, that the Turkijb Annals
were cramm'd with Stories and Stratagems, which the Turks boafl of, in
their Conquefts over the Chriflians. The following is one related by
Leunclaz'tus, and tranflated from the Turkiflj Original. The lame Soljman,
mention'd before, fends fourfcore Fellows over the Heliefpont : theie
lurking in the Vineyards till Break of Day, laid hold on half a dozen
Husbandmen, as they were going to their Work ; the next night, feventy
of thefe Muffulmans put themlelves in ambulli near the Town, while the
other ten remain'd further off with their Prilbners, four of whom they
murdefd, and hung on Trees upon a rifing ground, with their heels up-
wards, and ript out their Bowels as Butchers do Sheep in the Shambles :
one of 'em was put on a Spit like a Pig, and fuch as remain'd alive were
obliged to turn the Spit, and roafl: him at a lire. Next day the Turks took
more Prilbners, who happen'd to be decrepid old Men, that could hardlv
creep along : they were ltrangely frighten'd to hear they were Turks, and
lived upon nothing but Man's Fleih ; after Ibme very dilinal Dialogues thcy
ditmifs'd 'em, telling 'em they were ufed to better Meat, but bade 'em
be lure to lend 'em Ibme young Folks to feed upon. About goes the
Spit all the while. The old Men, not having feen above ten Turks, rc-
; urn'd to Town fader than they went out, and fell a fwearing like mad
at their Townlmen : What a deyil do ye Hand here for, with your fingers

4- in

Defcription of the Strait of the Dardanelles. 345

in your mouths ? Look yonder ! lee thofe Turks, there's but half a fcore Letter XL
of 'em, and they're roafting one of our Brethren, and would have done ^*s/~*i!*J
the fame by us, but that we were too tough and skinny : nothing but
young Flefh will down with them. The Commandant of the Place,
who was in the Prime of his Years, order'd out all the young Fellows
immediately to go and kill the Turks : accordingly, out they all run.
Mean while the feventy Muffulmans, who lay conceal'd among the Bufhes,
entered the Place and feiz'd the Gates, as fbon as they law the Croud at
a proper diftance. The Populace flill prefs'd forward, without fufpe&ing
the Stratagem : at laft the Turks that were roafting the Chriftian, inftead
of running farther into the Country, made the belt of their way to the
Town. What Fools are they, faid the Greeks, to take refuge in our
Houfes ! let 'em go, let 'em go, we'll deflroy 'em all together. But as fbon
as thefe fame Fools were got into the Town, they fhut the Gates, and
mounted the Walls with their Comrades, and mod of the Children which
were left in the Houfes. The poor Greeks look'd very fheepiih at this
Spectacle : they were told, unlefs they return'd to their Houfes, they
would cut the throats of all the Children •, but if they would fubmit,
they mould have no harm done 'em. The Populace, not knowing
what to do, accepted of the Offer : but the Perfons of Diftin&ion
flood out, till the Turks had fworn on the Alcoran not to take their
Eftates from 'em. Tho no Oath can be propos'd that a Villain will not
take, yet they had recourfe to a kind of mental Reftri&ion, unex-
pected by the Greeks: the Men of Note were all put to death, tho
their Eftates were not touch'd, which the Turks allured 'em they would
not. The Mujfulmans are very good at thefe Diftin&ions : Maho-
met II. after the taking of Negropont, caus'd the Governour to be faw'd
through the Body, faying, he had promis'd to fpare his Head, but not
his Trunk.

THE Greek Hiftorians differ in all thefe Adventures; fot Ducas pre.
tends, that the Turks pafs'd not the Hellefpont for the firft time till the
Years 1356 and 1357. that it was Homur Son of Attn, and Orcan, who
ravaged all Thrace ; one was mafler of Smyrna and Ephefus, and the other
of Prufa. Certain it is, the Mujfulmans did not infecl: Europe till about
700 Years after the Eftablifhment of Mahometilm in Jfi* : for the Egira,
Vol. I. Y y or

2^.5 A Vo y A g e into the Levant.

or Mahometan /Era, which rakes its date from Mahomet's Flight from
Mecha, began in the 6 2 2d Year of Chrift; and Othoman, the firfl; Empe-
ror of the Turks, died not till Anno 1528.

GALUPOLr. GALLIPO LI was the firfl Town they cantonM themfelves in.

piiJTtiLX the Situation of that Place is fo convenient for paffing into Thrace, that

cap- '.'• the Princes who have had defisns on that Province, have ever begun bv

making themfelves mailers of that Town. It fell to the lhare of the

• Giegor. ix. Venetians, after the taking of Conjlantinople by the Latins : but ' Vat ace
Du cm.^e ' ' Emperor of the Gr eeks, who made his refidence at Magnefia of Mount
Hid. of the Sipylw, being at war with Robert de Cotirtenai, fourth French Emperor*

Emp.ofCun/?. iJ D ' * >

lib. 3. befieg'd it, took it, and utterly deftroyM it in ' 1 2 3 5. The Catalans, wha

S" bmST fignanz'd themfelves in fo many Rencounters in G>we, fortify'd them-
generque The- fclves at GaUipoli in i?o6, under Roger de Fl or Vice-Admiral of Sicily.

odovi Lafcaris, „-,,, ,11 iu^/»

imperii fedem After the death of that General, who was murder d at C on/rant inople, in
fifad-s^pyUmi i violation of a Iblemn Oath made by the Emperor Andronicm, by the
annis33. Image of the Virgin painted by St. Luke; the Spaniards cut to pieces
nyzant. moft of the Burghers, and Co well intrench'd themfelves in the Towd,;
ibid^bT That Michael Paleologm, the Emperor's Son, was fain to raife the Siege.

• Pachim. lib. ' Remond Montaner, and the WiVes of the Catalans, whole Husbands were
ie, cap. 24, in t^e A^y tjiat ^ept tne Country, made fb gallant a Defence againft

Anthony Spinola, who fbrm'd a fecond Siege by order of the Emperor,,
that the Genoefe were conflrain'd to retire. At length the Catalans, per-
luaded that they could not hold out long in Ga/lipoli, level'd the Works

• Du cange in * 1307. Thus Soljman Son of Qrcan mult have got it cheap in ' i $57,

• Calvin ^r r^e Town was at that time difmantled, and the Emperor * John Pa~
*'Aaai\. Turc. leologuf, to comfort himfelf for the lofs of it, faid he had only loll a Jar

of Wine and a Stye for Hogs ; alluding, doubtlefs, to the Magazines of

> Procop. de Victuals and Cellars built by 7 Jufiinian, not only for maintaining a flrong

lib.'^'cap'.ip. Garifon within the Town, but Troops without. In the fame view that

Emperor, according to Procopius, caus'd GaUipoli to be fubilantially wall'd

about. Bajazet L knowing the Importance of this Poll for palling from

Prufa to Adrianople, which at that time were the two Capital Seats of the

»DucasHift. Ottoman Empire, caus'd GaUipoli to be repair'd in 8 1391 ; he llrengthen'd

' ' it with a huge Tower, and made a good Port for hisGallies. Mafia-

* fha?

I

AY --

nu7.3^/r

Jisn^ iyf //'ii/Z/pa//

Defcription of the City of Gallipoli. 34.7

pha, ' one of his Sons, fail'd not to feize it after the death of Mahomet I. Letter XI.
in order to bar the Entrance of Amurat I. into Europe : but this latter, mumd^c^J!
who was his Nephew and lawful SuccefTor, retook Gallipoli and Adriano-
pie, where he hang'd up Mufiapha.

THE Genoefe facilitated to Amur at the Paflage of the Canal. * Due as * Cap. 25, &
reports, that it was done by the help of the Ships of John Adorne Po- 1'
At fiat of the new Phocea ; but this Podeftat, young as he was, improved
the Opportunity like a wife Man : In the middle of the way he ask'd the
Sultan an Exemption from the Tribute paid yearly by the Genoefe for the
Alum of Phocea, and obtain'd it. ? Chalcocondylus mentions nothing of the ' L,b' *>'
Alum, but affirms this Tranfportation was procured by dint of Mony ;
and 4 Leunolavim adds, that Amurat gave no left than one or two Ducats * p*nd. Hift.

,_.,,. Jun. cap.8?.

for each Soldier.

GALLIPOLI is ftill a large Town at the mouth of the PropontU, or
Sea of Marmara, in a Strait about five miles broad ; it is 2 5 miles from the
Dardanelles, 40 from the Ifles of Marmara, and 1 2 from Confiantinople.
Gallipoli is in a Peninfula, which has two Ports, one to the South, and
the other to the North. They reckon in it about 10000 Turks, 3500
Greeks, not quite fb many Jews. The Bazar, or the Bezejlein, the place
where the Merchandizes are fold, is a handfome Houfe with feveral Domes
cover'd over with Lead : the Town has no Walls, and is only defended
by a fbrry fquare Caftle, with an old Tower, which doubtlefs is that of
Bajazet. We were aflured the Doors to the Greek and Jews Houfes were
not above two foot and a half high, and the like in many Towns of
Turky, to prevent the Turks in their Frolicks from coming a horfe-back
into their Houfes, where they would commit a thoufand Outrages.

I CAN fay no more of Gallipoli, not having been perfbnally in it:
we anchor'd in a Port fix miles below it, the North Wind detaining us AnPoitusCoc
there till the Holy Saturday, and we had the mortification not to land l2),Z Man!'
at Gallipoli : all we could do, was, as we pafs'd by, to take a Draught oV'k -•
it, wherein we were favour'd very opportunely by a Calm of Weather.

W E were told, that on the Afia fide, right againfl Gallipoli, there was
a Village call'd Chardac oxCamanar, whither they come from Smyrna to
pais the Canal, and take the way to Gallipoli by Land, and that the Winds
were not favourable for going by Sea to Conjtantincpk .- we would gladly

Yy 2 have

cat>, 2.

04.8 A Vo y a g e into the Levant.

have taken this Road. On the way (lands Rodofio, Heradea, Sclhrea,
and other Places, touching which, lundry Obfervations might be madej,
but our Captain would not put in any where on the Europe fide, and the
Wind rifing South-Weft, foon brought us in fight of the Ifles of Mar*
mxray on the fide whereof is a beggarly Town named Lartachi, fav& to be
the old City of Priapus. The Wind wafted us over the VropontU, and
prefcnted us the fineft View in the world, I mean, the Seven Towers and
the Coaft of Conjlantinople, which poflefles the Entrance of the Thracian
Bofphoms, call'd likewife the Canal of the Black Sea.

constant*. CONSTANTINOPLE, with its Suburbs, is, beyond diipute, the
N0FLE' largely City of Europe ; its Situation^ by confent of all Travellers, and
• Poiyb. Hift. even the antient ' Hiftorians, is the moft agreeable and the mod advaa-
Tscit Ann. tageous of the whole Univerfe. It feems as if the Canal of the Darda-
8b. 12. nelles, and that of the Black Sea, were made on purpofe to bring it the

Riches of the four Quarters of the World: thofe of the Mogul, the///-
dier, the rernoteft North, China and Japan-, come by the way of the Black
Sea ; and by the Canal of the White Sea, come the Merchandizes of Ara-
bia, Egypt, Ethiopia, the Coaft of Africk, the Weft-Indies, and whatever
Europe produces. Thefe two Canals are as the Doors of Conjlantinople ;
the North and South, which are the ordinary Winds there, are as it were
the two Leaves of the Door i when the North Wind blows, the South
'£/**>.'£'«< Door is Hurt, that is, nothing can come in from the Southern Coaft ; this
™"&dw$ Door opens, when the South Wind reigns: if you will not allow thefe
#f«* &**" Winds to be call'd the Doors of Constantinople, you muft agree 'em to be
xjn^tti ce«> its Keys at leaft.
%t$$!2S M..THEVENOT will have Constantinople to be not fo big as Paw,

at bm^ and kut ten or twelve mu*es aD°ut ; M. Spon allows it fifteen : for my part,
I believe its Compals to be twenty three miles ; to which if you add
twelve for the Suburbs of Galata, Caffun-Pacha, Pera, Topana, Fundukliy
the Circumference of this vaft City will be 34 or 3 £ miles. I can't hold
with them, who reckon Scutari among the Suburbs of Conjlantinople, be-
caufe 'tis only parted by the breadth, of the Canal : neither on the other
hand can 1 come into their Sentiment, who cut off from Conjlantinople all
the Suburbs beyond the Port ; fince even under the firft Chriftian Em-
perors,

Defcription of the. City of Conftanthiople. 349-

perors, Galata was the thirteenth Region of the City : the Fig-Tree Quar- LetterXf,
ter, which is the fame as Galata, makes part of the City, according to the ,^?'"v~^>
Emperor AnaftafiM, and Jujliwan placed it in the new Circumference. Novel- w
By little and little they have join'd to Galata the neighbouring Towns, ^st'.E^l'
as at Paris the Faux-bourg St. Germain, the Faux-bourg St. Antcin, and
others.

W E mud then diftinguifh the two parts in Conjlantinople, that on' this
fide the Port, and that on the other fide : the firft is the antient Byzantium ;
and Conjlantinople, whofe Plan is of a triangular figure : two of its fide&
are waftYd by the Sea, namely, that of the Port, which is the crookedeft
of all, and that which goes from the Point of the Seraglio to the Se-
ven Towers; the third is longer than the reft, and is on the- firm1
Land. To each of the two firft, they ufually allow feven miles, and
nine miles to the other: the firft Angle of this City is at the Sevea
Towers, the fecond at the Point of the Seraglio, and the third at the
Mofque of Ejouby towards the frefh Waters.

THE Walls of Conftantinople are very good ; thofe of the Land-fide
have a double Range twenty foot from, each other, and. defended by a
flat-bottom'd Ditch fome twenty five foot broad: the outer Wall,, which
is about two Toifes high, is defended by 250 low Towers; the inner -
Wall is above twenty foot high, and its Towers, which anfwer to thofe
of the outer, are well-proportion'd. The Battlements, the Courtines,
the Port-holes, are well-contriv'd, but we law no Artillery : Free-ftone-
is what it moftly confifts of. I think we counted five Gates on this fide :
it might be eafily fortify'd, for the Situation is naturally Hoping; very
far from commanding the City.

THE Walls from the Seven Towers to the Seraglio, and thofe along
the Port, look to be fbmewhat more difregarded : there's no going round
'em, becaufe of feveral Out-jettings to the Water. There's no Wharf or
Key ; fome part of the Walls, efpecially toward the Port, is (addled
with Houfes : the Towers of both fides are let at a proper diftance, but
have been often damaged by Storms, and repaired as often by the Greek'
Emperors Theofhiliis, Michael, Bafil, Conjlantine Porphjrogerretes, Manner
Csmnenesy 'John Paleologus ; as may be feen by the Infcriptron* onthe Se-
ven Towers, ancj other places in and. about the Walls. .

35°

A Voyage into the Levant

in en
xn ATT o
KPATOP02
nAAAIO
A o r o T.

Of John Paleologus Emperor
in Jefus Chrift.

■ -

THESE following are as you go from the Seven Towers to the

nASl' PQMAI0I2 METAS AESHOTH2 eVe-I-P £ PGMANOS
NEON nANMEflSTON TQNAE flTPTON EK BAQPflN.

Romanus, Illufirious Emperor of all the Greeks, did rebuild from the
very Foundation this new large Tower.

JO

TITPrOE BA2IAEIOT K A I K O N S T AN T I N OT niSTflN EN
Xfl ATTOKPATOPfiN ETSEBEI2 BASIAEI2 P CI M E fl N.

The Tower of Bafilius and Conftantine, faithful Emperors in Jefus Chrift,

pious KJngs of the Romans.

rrrpros ©eosiaot en
KPISTfl at tokpatop 02.

■

The Tower of Theophilus Emperor in Refits Chriff.

pit pros geo*iaot kai mi.

_

XAHA nlSTON EN xa . . .

ATTOKFATOPOH.

The Tower of Theophilus and Michael, faithful Emperors in Jefus Chr itt.

ANEKA1N120H En I 3A2 I AE I O T KAI KONSTANTINOT TON
noP*TPOr£NNHTnN ^IaO-KEIST^ON SEBASTfiN AEsnOTflN
E'N ETE K.4>. K. A.

This Tower w*s renewed under Bafil and Conftantine Porphyrogenetes,
Servants of Jefus Chrift y auguft Emperors in the Tear

ANE.

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople.

■
ANEKAINlSSH Eni MANOTHA TOT HAOXFl BASlAElOs;

PftME IOT,,-ir'fOT EN KAI ATTOK.PATOPOS p O M A I Cl N TOr

KOMNHNOT EN ETEI 4XOBMC.

This Tower was renewed under Manuel, Servant of Jefus ChriH, Roman
Emperor, Son and of the Roman Emperor Comnenes, in the Tear

ON THS 0AAA2SH2 0PAT2MO2 MAPKQ KPONfl KATAONI
nOAAfi KAI ^OiPJJ PH TNT MEN ON nEsEIN KATENArKASE

nrproN ek baqpcn basiaeios eteipe etzebhs anas.

■

This Tower, which the Concujjions of the Sea, violently and often repeated
had brought to ruin, was rebuilt from the Foundation by the pious J\Jng Bafil,

THERE are feven Gates from the Point of the Seraglio to the Seven
Towers ; five land-ward, and eleven on the Port : but whichever Gate
you go in at, you mount an Afcent. Conftantine, who defign'd to make
Conftantinople like Rome, could not have found a better Spot for Emi-
nences : it is a very tirefome City for Foot-Travellers ; Perfons of note
go on horfe-back. Before we enter the Town, we muft once more ad-
mire the Outiide : Nothing upon earth can be more delightful, than with
one Glance of the Eye to difcover all the Houfes of the biggeft City in
Europe, whofe Roofings, TerrafTes, Balconies, and Gardens, form a Va-
riety of Amphitheatres fet off" with Bezeftains, (Places like our Changes,
fof felling Wares) Caravan-Serais, (Houfes of Hofpitality) Seraglios, and
efpecially Mofques or Churches, which far outflieW ours in France. Thefe
Mofques, tho hideous for their Bulk, yet in appearance they have nothing
about 'em but what's beautiful ; the Defects and OddnefTes of the Turkijb
Architecture not being difcernable lb far off: on the contrary, their
principal Domes, aecompany'd with other little Domes, both cover'd
with Lead of Gilding ; their Steeples, if I may ufe that word for Towers
very flender and extremely high, with-the Crefcent at top : all together
yield a charming Spectacle to one that (lands at the Entrance of the
Canal df the Black Sea ;• nay, this Canal it felf flrikes you with admira-
tion, for Fanari-KJofc, Chalcedony Scutari^ and the adjoining Country,

have

35

A Voyage into the Levant

have an agreeable efTed upon the Eye, when, no longer able to bear the
Luftre of Constantinople, you turn your Face to the right.

•I MUST however confefs, that the Objects we had feen from our
Ship, appear'd quite different, on comparing them with thofe that pre-
fented rhemfelves to us when we went afliore. I know not whether
it was the Onions they fell at the corner of every Street, that awaken'd
in us the Idea of thole famous Temples in Egypt, whofe Outfide dazled
the. Beholder's Eye ; but I could not help comparing Conjtantinople with
thoie {lately Edifices, wherein were nothing but Crocodiles, Rats, Leeks,
Onions, which thole Idolaters regarded as fo many Deities. The Houfes
of Galata, where we landed, are low, built moftly of Wood and Mud,
fo that a Fire confumes thoufands of 'em in a day ; a Difafter which fre-
quently befals 'em, either from the Turks fmoking in bed, or elfe done on
purpole by the Soldiers, for the fake of pilfering : it would be no great
damage, if nothing but the Houfe was deftroy'd, for they cofl: but a
trifle to build again, and there's Wood enough on the Coafts of the Black
Sea to rebuild Conjtantinople once a year, if occafion were; but a world
of Families are utterly undone by the burning of their Merchandizes.
'Tis afmall matter, when they (peak but of 2 or 3000 Houfes burnt: a
Man has •oftentimes the mortification to fee his Houfe pull'd down and
pillaged, tho the Fire.be 200 paces off; efpecially when the North-Eafl,
«Cari-fei. which the Turks call the black Wind, is in its fury. They have found no
other Remedy to prevent the whole Town from being devour'd, but only
-" to blow up a great many Houfes, otherwife the Conflagration would

become general. The foreign Merchants have of late Years wifely be-
thought themfelves to build at Galata very fiibflantial Ware-houfes of
Free-flone, (landing fingle, and having no more Windows than are bare-
ly necefTary; the Shutters whereof, as well as the Doors, are eover'd
with Iron Plates.

THE Plague and the Leventis, next to Fire, are the two Scourges of
Conjtantinople : it is true, the Turks are unworthy to live, they Hand and
fee 5 or 600 die in a day of this cruel Diflemper, without doing the leaft
thing either to avoid it or flruggle againfl it, and never begin then: Pro-
ceflions till it fweeps away about 1 200 in a day. They buy and fell the
Goods and Houfhold Stuff of the Infe&ed, juft as if they had died of
I Old-

Defer iption of the City of Conftantinople. 353

Old- Age or a violent Death. As for us, we had the Forecaft, when we Letter XT.
let out from Marfeilles, to lay in a provifion of Lapis Infernalis ; and if
the lead Spot had appear'd on our Body, we mould not have fail'd to
tap it with a Lance, fcarify it, and clap fome of this cauterizing Stone
upon it, to cat away as foon as poilible that part where the Strength of
the Poiion difcharges it felf : befides this, we would have made ufe of
Treacle, Or vie tan, Englijh Drops, and other cordial and ipirituous Me-
dicaments, which we had Box-fulls of. Theie Remedies mull be pre-
ceded by the Uie of Emetick Tartar, which is to be repeated according
to occafion without delay, the moment the Head ails any thing, or the
lead Loathing is felt.

AS for the Lewntis, who are Soldiers of the Gallies that infult Peo-
ple with their Cutlafles in their hand, and make ugly Faces to frighten
iuch as don't know 'em ; ibme years ago the Caimacan, or Governour
of the City, at the follicitation of the EmbalTadors, gave Strangers a
perniiffion to defend themfelves againll theie diforderly Rake-lhames,
who have been often quclPd by dint of Sword and Piftol. Tho the
Turkijb Bravoes look on us as a parcel of very aukard Fellows, that know
not how to handle our Arms nobly and with a good grace ; yet they fly
from the Point of our Swords. Tbefe Chrifiian Dogs, lay they, run &
Man through the guts at once, without giving him time to defend himfelf.
Our Swords do their bufinefs off-hand, whereas ibme Movements of the
Body are required for the Ufe of a Scymeter. As loon as ever you per-
ceive in the ftreets of Conjhntinople any Perfons making towards ye, m
a Waillcoat and Drawers, barc-legg'd, with only Pumps on, and a Ponyard
in their hand, you muil uniheath your Sword ; fome have the precaution
to carry it naked under their Coat : if you wear a Veil, you mould not
ilix without Pocket-Piflols, well charged and primed, or at leaft ibme-
thin'g like 'em. A certain French Merchant one day put to flight a couple
of rhefe Levant is, with a large Ink-horn., which they took for fome Fire-
Arms: they fancy our Canes have Tucks within 'em, and always take
their meaiurcs from the Countenance we bear towards 'cm. To avoid
their Inlults, People ibmctimes take Janizaries for their Guard.

THE Marquiis de Ferriol gave us ibme of his Guard to go fclong

with us : he lodg'd us in the Chateau-Ga/l/ard, a Quarter in the Palais

VoL L Z z tie

354 & Voyoae into the Levant

de Trance, which he had allotted for us : this Palace feem'd to us to be
an inchanted Place, for the Mifery we had feen in the Archipelago, had
given us a very difadvantageous Notion of the reft of Turk], The Pa-
lace of frame is the moft agreeable Houfe in all Conjlantinople, to Per-
fons bred up in Europe ; it was built by order of Henry IV. when M. de
Breves was Embaflador, but there were fine Apartments made bv M. de
Nointel : Gentlemen there meet with every thing that's fit for 'em. Out
of this Palace, they know not what Good Eating means; no, not if you
were to go to the further end of Japan. The Embaffador's Table is as
well fupply'd as the beft in Paris • inftead of Copper- VefTels tinn'd over
which even the Grand Signior ufes in the Seraglio, you fee nothing in his
Excellency's Houfe but Piles of filver Plates, and Buffets charg'd with
Bafons, Ewers, Salvers, Vafes, and Goblets of the fame Metal. All the
Nations of the World are tempted thither by the Magnificence and en-
gaging well-bred Behaviour of the Owner : we cannot fufficiently admire
with what Refblution the Marquifs de Ferriol maintains the Grandeur of
the French Name, at a Court where one is every day expos'd to the Ca-
prices of new Minifters.

WHILE our Turkijb Habits were making, we rambled about the
Town in our French Drefs, with a Sword to our fide, a powder'd Wig
and Hat cock'd, tho nothing is more ofFenfive to the Muffulmans, efpe-
cially fuch as live further up in the main Land. 'Tis not lb with thofe
of Conjtantinople and Smyrna ; by a frequency of feeing us in our ordinary
Equipage, they are familiarized to our ways. We mould have made no
difficulty of walking the flreets without Janizaries, if my Lord EmbafTa-
dor, in regard we were employ'd by his Majefty, had not order'd fome to
attend us wherever we went.

THE Streets of Conjtantinople are very ill paved, fome not at all •
the only Street that is practicable, is that which goes from the Seraglio
to the Gate of Jdrianople : the reft are clofe, dark, deep, and look like
To many cut-throat Lanes ; and yet you frequently meet with good
Buildings, Bagnios, Bazars, and fome Houfes of Great Men, built with
Lime and Sand, and angled with Free-ftone, the Apartments running
very cleverly into one another.

4 WE

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7-c/-J.

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///,;•/'//<?///<■// /// //////• 0uirlfbfvru.

•'

Defcription of the City of Gonftantinople. 3*55

WE thought the Place more populous than they told us it was; the Letter XI.
Houfes arc but two Stories high, and are well filfd. I make no queflion
but there are as many People at Conjlantinople as in Paris : you meet with
but few Turks in the ftreets, they keep within doors, without concerning
themfelves about what partes abroad, except certain Women belonging to
the abfent Baihaws, and thefe have no averfion to Strangers; but their
Intrigues are attended with Danger, and Tendernefs is lbmetimes iuc-
ceeded by Cruelty. TheHusbands, that they may have no pretence for
. going abroad, have made 'em believe there's no Paradile for Women ; or
if there be one, they may attain it by faying their Prayers at home.
To amufe 'em, they build Baths for 'em, and treat 'em with Coffee : but
notwithftanding all this Precaution, a way is often found to introduce
haudibme young Fellows, difguiied like.Female Slaves, with Toys to fell.
The JemjJj Women i are dextrous at promoting the Belles PaJJions ; how-
ever, there is not nearfo much intriguing here, as with us: and moil of
fneTurkijb Ladies are obliged to ftay at home, and bufy themfelves in
Embroidery, for want of better Employment. The Greek, Jewijf), and
Armenian Women, have more liberty, but don't go abroad fb often as
our Women, becaufe the Slaves do all that's to be done without doors,
as going to Market, c?c Paris would feem far lefs populous, did we not
all the day long meet in the ftreets Women of all Ages and Conditions.

MANY things have contributed to fill Constantinople with People,
beyond die other Cities. of Turky : Traffick; Hopes of rifing at Court,
where there are no People of Quality, and confequently it is natural for
a Man to flatter himfelf that he may be advanced for his Merit and
Mony ; the Mifery that is fuffer'd in the Provinces, where the Bafhaws
have always exercifed grievous Cruelties; laftl.y, that prodigious Trade of
Slaves, which is inceffantly carrying on : thefe latter increaie and mul-
tiply by Marriage, and fwell the number of Inhabitants. In all Ages it
feems to have been a Maxim to bring to Confantinople powerful Colo-
nies ; I fpeak not of the Roman Families, which Confiantine engaged to
•fettle there: Glyas affirms, that that Emperor having confer'd on the
Senators that follow'd him the Command of his Armies in Perfia, he
made 'em leave their Rings behind 'em ; thefe he lent to their Wives, to
•oblige 'em to quit Rome, and come away to their Husbands, and fix

2z2 them-

^6 A Voyage into the Levant

themfelves at his Court. Mahomet II. having taken Amafiris, belonging
to the Genoefe, on the Co ails of the Black Sea, ient away almoft all its
Inhabitants to Conftantinople, Ann. 1460. In 1514, Selim having made
himfelf mailer of Tauris in Perfia, brought from thence all the Mecha-
nicks. Barbarojfa often tranfported thither the Inhabitants of iuch Iflands
as he conquer'd in the Archipelago : in 155 7, he caus'd 16000 Prribners
to pais thither from Corfu. In the lail Wars of Hungary,, what Shoals of
both Sexes were carry'd. away to Conjlantinople !

THE firil Walk a Stranger ufually takes in Conflantinople, is to the
Royal Moiques ; of which there are feven 06 call'd. Theie Edifices,
which are very handfbme in their kind, are compleatly finiih'd, and kept
in perfect good condition -r whereas in France we have fcarce iuch a thing
as a finiih'd Church : if the Nave is admired for its Largeneis and Beauty
of its Arch-work, the Choir is imperfect ; if theie two parts are eom-
pleat, the Frontiipiece is not begun : raoit of our Churches, efpecially in
Paris, are hedg'd in with profane Buildings, and Tradeiinens Shops, to
make advantage of every the leail Spot of Ground; the Church is often
Co choak'd up with Houies, there's no Avenue, no Vacancy left. Where-
as the Moiques of Constantinople iland fingle, within a ipacious Incioiure,
planted with fine Trees, adorn'd with delicate Fountains : they iufler not
a Dog to enter, no one prefumes to hold difcourfe there, or do the leail
irreverent Action ; they are well endow'd, and far exceed ours in Riches :
tho their Architecture is inferior to ours, yet they fail not to make an
knpreflion on the Beholder by their Largenefs and Solidity. In all parts
©f the Levant,, the Domes are well executed ; thoie of the Moiques are
©f art exact Proportion, and accompany'd with other imaller Domes,
which make 'em appear full and comely to the Eye : it is not ib with their
Minarets, which are Spires as high as any of our Belfries, and.asimall
about as a Nine-pin, in a manner. Theie Minarets are a great Ornament
to the Moiques,. and. to the whole Town : however, tho we have no
Work of that Boldnefs among us, our Eyes are form'd to our Belfries,
and our Ears to the Sound of our Bells, which are more harmonious
chan. the Singings of the Muefins. ; ib they term thoie who call, the Peo-
|»le to Piayers^ in a fingjng.Tone, from the top of the Minarets;.

ST.

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 357

ST. SOPHIA is the mod perfect of all thcfe Mofques ; its Situation Letter XI.
is advantageous, for it (lands in one of the bed and fined parts of Con- v-'"v~"*-'
jlantinople, at top of the antient Byzantium., and of an Eminence that
defcends gradually down to the Sea by the Point of the Seraglio. This
Church, which is certainly the fined Structure in the world next to St. Pe-
ter's at Rome, looks to be very unwieldy without : the Plan is almod
fquare, and the Dome, which is the only thing worth, remarking, reds
outwardly on four prodigious large Towers ; which have been added of
late years to fupport this vad Building, and make it immoveable, in a
Country where whole Cities are often overthrown by Earthquakes.

THE Frontifpiece has nothing grand, nor anfwerable to the Idea Men
have of St. Sophia.: you fird enter in at a Portico about fix Toifes (Fa-
thom) broad, which in the time of the Greek Emperors ferv'd for a
Yedibulum. This Portico communicates with the Church by nine Mar-
ble Folding-Doors, the Leaves whereof, which are Brafs adorn'd with
BafTo-Relievo's, are extremely magnificent : on the middlemod of 'em
you fee tome Figures of Mofaick Work, nay, fome Paintings toe The
Vedibulum is join'd to another, which is parallel to it, but has no more
than five brazen Doors without Bas-Reliefs :. the Leaves were charg'd with
CrolTes, but the Turks have only left the upright Pod. of thefe CroiTe.%
and have taken away the Crofs-Beam of 'em. You don't enter front-wife
into- thefe two Vedibulums, but only at doors open'd on the fides ; and
according to the Rules of the Greek Church, thefe Vedibulums were ne-
cefTary for the placing thofe that were didinguifh'd. either for being about
to receive the Sacraments, or undergo publick Penance. Parallel to
thefe Vedibulums, the Turks have built a great Cloider^ for lodging the
Officers of the Mofque.

'A DOME of an admirable dructure holds the place of a Nave ■ ' 7&c< y*

• '•' • •' ; ' -' ' 111, SnAo?, trallus,

at the foot of this Dome runs a Colonnade, which bears a Gallery five miib, hemif-
Toifes broad, the Arch-work whereof is exquifite.. In the. Interfaces Rido."""' te "
of the Columns, the Parapet is adorn'd with CrofTes in Bas-Relief: thefe ??*P**5'"
the Turks have ufed very ill : by fome it is call'd Conftantine's Gallery ; it c)xh' A D,m^
was formerly fet apart for the Women. At the Roof,, and on the Cornifh
of the Dome, runs a fmall Gallery, or rather a Baludrade, no broader
than juft for one Perfon to pafs at a time • and above this, there's alfb

another :.

3S8

A "Vo yage into ifo Levant.

another: thefe Baluftrades make a marvellous figure in time of their Ra-
mezan, when they are all adornM with Lamps. The Columns of this
Dome have fcarce any belly or fwelling, and their Chapiters look'd to be
of a fingular Order : the Dome is eighteen Toifes in the clear, (that is,
from Wall to Wall) and reds upon four huge Pillars, about eight Toifes
thick ; the Arch feems a perfect Demi-fphere, illuminated with twenty
four Windows, difpofed in a Circumference.

FROM the Eaft part of this Dome, you pafs (trait on to the Demi-

• The space be- dome which terminates the Edifice. ' This Dome, or Shell, was the
'vome lad the Sandtuary of the Chriftians, and the great Altar was placed there. Ma~
faTd "xZl * b°met H- having conquer'd this City, went and fat here with his Legs
K6fx«, vb<?«> crofsM under him after the manner of the Turks ; after faying his Prayers,

he caus'd himfelf to be fhaved ; and then faften'd to one of the Pillars
where was the Patriarch's Throne, a fine piece of embroider'd Stim^
with Jrabick Characters onit, which had ferv'd as a Skreen in theMofque
of Meca. Such was the Confeeration of St. Sophia ! There is at prefent

• Maharab. in this Sancluary nothing but the ' Niche where they keep the Alcoran ;
Marai4'. ^ looks towards Meca, and the Mttjfulmdns always turn that way when
Guebic. they fay their Prayers : the Mufti's Chair is hard by, it is rais'd on feve-

ral fteps, and on the fide of it is a kind of Pulpit, for the Officers to re-
peat certain Prayers.

THIS Mofque, built like a Greek Crofs, is in the clear 42 Toifes
long, 38 broad: the Dome fakes up almofl all this Square. They al-
lured me there were no fewer than 107 Columns of different Marble, of
Porphyry, or Egyptian Granate ; we had not time to count 'em our felves.
The whole Dome is lined or pav'd with Varieties of Marble : the In-
-cruftations of the Gallery are Mofaick, moftly done with Cubes or Dice
of Glafs, which are loofen'd every day from their Cement, but their Co-
■KemxeyWre lour is unalterable. Thefe glafs Dice are real Doublets, for the variega-
T'Kit?yjp™ te^ ^^ is cover'^ w^tn a piece of Glafs very thin, and glued on, fo as
**^e>raK. nothing but hot boiling Water can make it fcale off: if ever Mofaicks

Anonym, vt- o o

ftript.Conftan. fhould come again in fafliion among us, we could eafily do the like. Tho

•the Application of thefe two pieces of Glafs, containing the colour'd

Plate, be trifling, yet it proves the Invention of Doublets not to be

inew. The Turks have defhoy'd the Nofe and Eyes of fbme Figures,

as

Defer iption of the City of Confbntinopie. 359,

as well as the Faces of four Cherubims placed in the Angles of the Letter XI.
Dome,. v^vv^

THIS Church is not the firft that in Conjlantinople bore the Name V* 20?;a.
of St. Sophia i ' Conjtantine the Great was the firft that confecrated a ' Tteophin.
Chappel there to the Wifdom of the Uncreated Word; but whether that p.V.Diac.L-L
Building was too finall, or whether it was lome time after deftroy'd by ^e11,b°l,Ca!*
an Earthquake, ' Conftantim his Son caus'<f a larger Church to be built CJP- 49.
inftead of the former: the Sanctuary and the greateft part of this Church CA^l\ ' ,2'

were ruin'd in the Reign of Arcadius, when a Tumult was ftirr'd up I>h,loftor§- l;b-

D f ;, op. 3.

againft St. 'John Chryfojlom Patriarch of ' Conjl antinople ; nay, his" Party isNicephor.CaU
faid to have fet it on fire. It was again burnt under Honorius. and re- , ' ' K.'V

O ' ' Socrat. lib. 6,

eftablifh'd by youngTheodoJiits ; but in the fifth Year of Juftinian, St.So-"P- >6-
phia efcaped not the general Burning, in that 5 Infurrection, wherein Hy- , "^^u
patius was made Emperor in his own defpite. Jyjlinian having quelPd the * Manuel.
Sedition, and punifh d thofe that raifed it, caufed the fame year to be &dif, Efeeant
built the ftately 6 Edifice ftill exifting. 7 M. du Cange proves, that it was ' in Notis in
finifh'd in five years, and not feventeen, as fbme Greek Authors have
written : the Emperor was fo highly pleas'd, he burft into an Exclama-
tion, 1 have outdone thee, 0 Solomon ! but in the $2d Year of Juftiman, N«mm&, n<
an Earthquake threw down the Demi-dome, and the Altar was crufh'd vfcuTsa'io-
with its Fall : it was re-edify'd, and the Church confecrated a-new. Zp- ™0"' Coi'\

J ' ^ de Qng.Conft.

naras obferves, that Jujtinian did great injury to polite Literature, in ap-
plying to this Building the Stipends that were ufuaily given the ProfefTors
in every Town all over the Empire. Rather than not gratify his Itch of
Building, he melted down the filver Statue of Theodofmsy which Arcadim
had erected, and which weigh'd 7400 pound. To cover the Dome of
St. Sophia, Juftinian employ'd the Leaden Pipes which ferv'd to carry-
moft of the Water for the ufe of the City. The chief Architects that
were concern'd in this famous Church, were 8 Anthemius of Tralles, and 8 procop. &
lfidorus of Miletits : the firft was efteem'd the greateft Mechanift of his mi~- W-
time : he was, fbme think, no ftranger to the Art of making Gunpow-
der ; for 9 Agathias avers, that he would exactly mimick Thunder, Light- , Lib
ning, and Earthquakes. The Emperor Bafu the Macedonian caus'd the -
Weftern Demi-dome to be ftrengthen'd : laftly, this Church was fo da-
maged by another Earthquake. under the Empreis Anne and John Paleo-

logus

3<5o A Voyage into the Levant.

logus her Son, that: it required much Expence of Time and Treafare to

repair : for which reafbn the Marriage of the Emperor with Helm Daughter

Cantacuz. ub. of Cantacu&enus, was folemnized in the Church of Blaquernes, dedicated

Limd.Hift. to the Holy Virgin. Mahomet II. was Co pleas'd with St. Sophia, that he

Mufliilm. 5S2. caufe<j in to j)C repaired, and the Turks have ever fince kept it with the

utmoft care.

AFTER vifiting St. Sophia, we were carry'd thirty or forty paces ofF
Twbc. t0 be fhewn the Maufoleums of certain Ottoman Princes : they are four

fmall low Buildings with Domes cover'd over with Lead, fupported by
Columns hexagonally placed. The Baluflrades are of Wood, and the
Coffins cover'd with plain Cloth : the Emperors are diftinguiih'd from
their Wives only by their Turbant, which is on a Pillar at the head of
the Coffin, and this Coffin is fomewhat "bigger, as well as the Torches
that burn at each end. There's no Torch to that of Sultan Mourafs
Brother, tho there are to every one of the Grand Signior's Wives. They
pointed us to fome Handkerchiefs like Cravats round the Necks of cer-
tain Figures, in number 120, being Reprefentations of that Emperor's
Children, which were all ftrangled in a day by his SucoefTbr's order.
They have not been fparing of Marble in thefe Maufoleums, which are
conftantly illuminated night and day, not only with the Torches about
the Coffins, but many others : they have alio chain'd thereto feveral
Copies of the Alcoran, to be perufed by fuch as refbrt thither to pray.
Befides thofe who come out of Devotion, there are .here, as alfo in the
other Maufoleums, a Company of poor Alms-People, who have a Foun-
dation hard by : thefe wear wooden Chaplets, the Beads whereof are
about the fize of a Musket-Ball. I have forgot the Names of the other
Saltans who are in thefe Maufoleums- I think they mention'd to us-
Sultan Selnn and Sultan Muftapba,

HARD by isfeen an old Tower, faid to have ferv'd as a Church. to
the Chriftians ; they keep in it feveral wild Beads, fuch as Lions, Leopards,
Tvgcrs, Linxcs, Jackals : thefe lafl: are between a Fox and a Wolf, and
in the night make a crying like Children pain'd with Gripings.

THE other Royal Moiques of Conf.antinople may be reckon'd & many
Copies of St. Sophia, more or iefs rcfembling this Original ; they are
Domes of a goodly appearance, accompany'd with many other leifer

4- Domes :

-KzLJ^

Defcription of the Gty of Conftantinople. 361

Domes: the Building always ftands by it felf in an Inclofure planted with Letter XL
Trees, adorn'd with Fountains, Oratories to pray in, and all other ^-<?s*v^»-*
Conveniences necelfary to the Exercife of the Mahometan Religion.
As for the Minarets, that is, thofe flender Spires before mention'd,
there's no Royal Mofque without two at lead ; fome have four, nay fix
of 'em.

AT the antient Hippodrome (or Running-place for Hodes) now
call'd Atmeidan Mofque, each Minaret has three ftone Galleries : before
you enter this Mofque, you go through a Periftyle, which is a fort of
Cloifter, arch'd over, and cover'd with little Domes, and fupported by
Columns. The Pavement is of a very beautiful Marble, as alfo an
hexagonal Fountain which is in the middle, cover'd likewife with a Dome
form'd by Grates of gilded Iron. This Mofque, and the other Royal
Maufoleums which the Mujfulmans have built, are lighted with a great
many more Lamps than St. Sophia ; and among the Lamps of the new
Mofque are placed Chryftal Balls, branch'd Candlefticks, Oflrich-Eggs,
and fiich-like pieces, to pleafe the Eye. They fhew'd us a Globe of Glafs,
wherein was reprefented in Bas-Relief, with wonderful patience, the Plan
of the Mofque. The Turbe, or Maufoleum of Sultan Achmet, is behind
this Mofque, Northward.

OF all the Mofques in Conftantinople, there's none comes near to
St. Sophia in the Beauty of its Dome, but the Solymania, founded by So-
lyman II. the mofl magnificent of all the Sultans ; nay, its Outftde out-
does St. Sophia : its Windows are larger and better difpofed, its Galleries
more regular and flately ; the Whole is built of the fineft Stones that
could be found among the Ruins of Chdcedon. The indifpenfable Necef-
fity the Mujfulmans are under of making their Ablutions, obliges 'em to
build large Cloifters near the Royal Mofques : the Fountain is always
placed in the middle, and the Wafhing-places round about.

THE Maufoleum of its Founder, and that of the Sultana his Wife,
are behind the Mofque under very rich Domes : Solyman's Coffin is co-
ver'd with a fine piece of Embroidery, reprefenting the Town of Meca,
from whence it was brought. At the head of that Prince's Coffin are
two Heron's Feathers befet with precious Stones : here are conflautly
burning feven huge Tapers, and a great many Lamps ; Copies of the
Vol. I. A a a Alcoran

i&8 A VoroAE into the Levant.

Alcoran are chained up and down in divers places, and Perfons in pay
to read 'em : the Turks think the Dead are relieved by Prayers.

THE Validea, Co callM from Valide its Fouudrefs, Wife of Ibrahim,
and Mother of Mahomet IV. is another fine Edifice placed on the Port
hear the Seraglio. The Inftde is lined with fine Dutch Ware, but its
Colonnade is of Marble, with Chapiters after the TurkifJj way *, mofl of
the Columns were fetch'd from the Ruins of Troy : its Lamps, branch'd
Candleflicks, ivory Balls, chryftal Globes, are very ornamental. The
whole Work feems to be more delicate than the other Mofques, and has
nothing Gothick, tho much in the Turkijb Tafte : the Arches over the
Doors and Windows are well defign'd ; its two Minarets have each three
handfbme Galleries : 'tis furprizing that the Turks, who don't often raife
fuch Fabricks, mould find Architects skilful enough to build 'em.

THE Situation of this Mofque, which is full in fight of the Seraglio,
and in the mofl frequented part of the Town, makes it be prefer'd be-
fore all others on publick Rejoicing-Days : they don't content themfelves
with crouding with Lamps the Galleries of its Minarets, but throw fe-
veral Cords at different heights between one Spire and another ; thefe
Cords not only fupport the Name and Cypher of the Grand Signior, re-
prefented by imall burning Lamps, but like wife the Reprefentation of
Towns, and the principal Victories that give occafion to the Feflival.

I N thele Illuminations, every thing glitters, the very Crefcents are in
a blaze. Were the antient "Byzantines to return to Life, they would
doubtlefs be aftonifh'd at the prodigious Dimenfions of their City,
which at this day extends to the furthermoft part of the Haven, where-
as in their time it took up only the Southern Entrance : but they would
not be furprized to fee the Crefcent, it being the Symbol of Byzantium.
Sc^ir. Byzam. We are told the reafon of it by Stephens the Geographer, a Native of
this City. Philip of Macedon, Father of Alexander the Great, meeting
with mighty difficulties in carrying on the Siege of Byzantium, took the
opportunity of a very dark Night to fet Workmen to undermine the
Walls, fo as to make a Breach for his Troops to enter the Place, with-
out being percciv'd by the Enemy : but luckily for the Befieged, the
Moon appearing, gave 'em light into the Defign, and made it mifcarry.
The Inhabitants^ in acknowledgment, erected a Statue to Hecate on

the

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 363

the Port; and this place, which before was call'd Bofphorm, on account Letter XL
of an Ox's fwimming it over to Afta on a certain time, went afterwards ^~V-"^J
by the name of Phofphorus, on occafion of Diana the Light-bringer : 'tisH^TJiA^Tw-
likely that the Church of St. Plwtina of Topana was built on the Foun-
dation of fome Temple of the fame Diana. Triflanus has publifh'd the Comment.
Tvoe of a beautiful Medal of Trajan, on the Reverfe whereof is a Cref- ' '

J 1 J ' BTZANTI-

cent furmounted by a Star; and in the Legend 'tis notify'd, that theNH zaT.
Town was faved by favour of that Crelceut, or by the help of Diana, vlaix, '
whole Symbol it was. There are feveral Medals of the fame Type in
the King's Cabinet, in the name of the Bj&antines, with the Heads of btzanti-
Diana, Trajan, Julia Domna Wife of Severus i the Turks have Only
adopted the Crelcent, which they met with up and down among the
antient Buildings of the City.

O F all the Sultanas that ever meddled with Politicks, Valide, before
mention'd, was the moft fagacious in managing the Affairs of the Porte,
and acquired to her felf an incredible Authority and Intereft : file pitch'd
upon the moft advantageous place of all Conftantinople, to difplay her
Magnificence ; before her, no Sultana had the privilege to erect a Royal
Molque ; for as to that of St. Francis, befides its being no Royal one,
the Mother of Sultan Achmet III. now reigning, only converted into an
ordinary Molque the Church of the Italian Francifcans, belonging to the
Suburbs of Galata.

A SMALL matter fuffices to maintain an ordinary Molque : as for
the Royal Mofques, the Sultans, according to their Law, can't build one
till they have obtain'd fignal Victories over the Enemies of the Empire ;
nay, the Charges of building and endowing them, mull be defray'd out
of their Conquefts : for which reafon, Sultan Achmet having built a new
Mofque againft the Advice of the Doctors of the Law, who reprelented
to him in vain, that he having taken no Town nor Caftle, ought not to
undertake fo expenfive a Work, thefe Doctors gave it the name of the
Mofque or Temple of an Incredulous.

THESE Mofques require fuch immenfe Sums for their Support, that
they coniume a Third of the Land-Revenue of the Empire. The Kiflar-
Aga, or Chief of the black Eunuchs, is the Super-Intendant of them ;
'tis he that difpoles of all the Ecclefiaftical Offices belonging to the

Aaa 2 Royal

36+

A Voyage into the Levant.

Royal Mofques, the chief of which are at Confiantinople, Adrianople, and
Prufa. 'Tis affirm'd, that the Revenue of St. Sophia is 800,000 Livres^
The Grand Signior pays for the Ground on which the Seraglio is built,.
1 00 1 Afpers per day. Thefe Revenues are appropriated to keeping up-
the Buildings, paying the Salaries of the Officers of the Mofque, pro-
viding Food for the Poor, who come to the Gate at certain hours, main-
taining the Hofpitals that adjoin thereto, educating and breeding up of
Scholars in the Law of Mahomet, relieving indigent Tradefmen and Arti-
zans, and the like : the reft goes into the Treafury of the Mofque, to
anfvver any fudden unforeseen Call, fuch as the falling of Houfes, Damages
by Fire, &c. This Treafure, as well as that of the other Mofques, is-
kept in the Caftle of the Seven Towers, and the Grand Signior can't in
confcience touch it, but upon urgent occafions, when their Religion is-
at flake. The Villages, whofe Revenues belong to the Royal Mofques,
have large Privileges ; their Inhabitants are exempt from quartering Sol-
diers, and from being opprefs'd by the Bafhaws, who when they travel
that way, turn afide.

IN all the other Towns of the Empire, each Houfe pays annually a
JJ* or Va' Quit-Rent to thefe Mofques. The Quit-Rents belonging to St. Sophia,
arife from Smyrna, Validea from Rodojlo, Sultan Bajazet from Adrianople y
the Mofques of Adrianople enjoy the Quit-Rents of Galata. When the
Greeks, Jews, and Armenians die without Male IfTue, their Houfes de-
volve to the Mofque, befides the Quit-Rent it before receiv'd thereout ;
but among the Turks, the Brothers and Coufins inherit the Houfe, and
pay only the Quit-Rent to the Mofque. To redeem or buy out thefe
Quit-Rents, it is permitted to purchafe for the ufe of the Mofque any
Shop or Shops, or any fort of Effects, which may be an Equivalent for
the Quit-Rent.

THE other Royal Mofques are not fo confiderable as thofe already
mention'd : they are cali'd by their Founders Names, Sultan Bajazet, Sal-
tan Selim, Sultan Mahomet. The Mofque of Ejoup is not counted &
Royal Building, tho built by Mahomet II. who caus'd the whole City to
be repair'd, and founded many Colleges. This Mofque confifls in but
one Dome, famous for nothing but the Ceremony of crowning the
new Sultan ; the Ceremony is not long \ they have nothing to do with

4: Crowns

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 36$

Crowns or other Royal Ornaments. The Emperor afcends a kind of Letter XI.

Roftrum of Marble, and the Mufti girds a Sabre to his fide, as an Em- ,~/~v v'

blem of his being Lord of the whole Earth ; for at this Court, all the

other Kings are call'd Sultanons, except the King of France, to whom

they give the name of Padifcha, that is, Emperor, The Mofque of Ejoup

is at the Efflux of the freih Waters ; this lame Ejoup is efteem'd by the

Turks as a great Prophet, as well as Captain. They don't however deny

he was worded before Constantinople, and that he was kill'd there at the

head of an Army of Saracens, whom he commanded. His Sepulchre is

no lefs refbrted to than thofe of the Sultans : there is continual praying

at it, which fort of praying is what a great many People in Turk) get a

handfbme Livelihood by.

FROM Ejoup- 's Mofque we went to fee an old ruin'd Edifice, call'd
the Palace of Confiantine ; but it has nothing confiderable : it is a ruinous
decay'd thing, about 400 paces from the Walls of the City ; there are
left two Columns, that bore up a Balcony over the Gate : the whole
looks like fbme Gallery to which they afcended by a Marble Stair-cafe,
Ibme of the Steps yet remaining ; it is perhaps the refidue of fome Houfe
built by Confiantine Porphjrogenetes, for the Palace of Confiantine the Great
was in the firft Region of the Town, where now the Seraglio ftands.
Z^zimus affures us, that there was no finer in all Rome : Codinm calls it Yam\d± $ ™
the Palace of the Hippodrome. ™m$(£

WE afterwards crofs'd the Quarter of Balat, to go down to the Port, Hift- llb* '°
which is one of the Wonders of the City. The Greek Emperors ufed
heretofore to take the diverfion of Hunting at Balat • which is therefore
call'd in vulgar Greek the Park or the ' Hunter. Here is nothing but the « Km^f,
" Patriarchal Church, that can engage a Stranger's Attention, and that * n*Te«tp-
more for its Name than Beauty; it is about 200 paces from the Porr.^**1
The Greeks inuft not dare to beflow any Coft on this Church, even tho
they were ever fb rich ; for the Turks would not fail to lay hands on
whatever Mony mould be offer'd to be apply'd that way.

I am, &C.

L E T-

(3«)

LETTER XII.

To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, Sec.

My Lord,
Dtfrripthn of |||||||||| H E Port of Conjl antinople can never be too much admired.
v\*coMrimSd. 'hr iP ^e went rounc^ ic in a ^oat' in very ferene Weather : thefe

Boats are fmall Gondolas, exceeding light, and marvelloufly
neat and pretty ; they are in fuch numbers, they cover the
whole Haven, especially the PafTage to Galata. The Antients never put
a better thing into the Oracle's mouth, than when they made him give
this Anfwer to Ibme who confulted him about building a Town here-
abouts : Let it be, faid the Oracle, over againtf the Country of blind, Men.
For the Port of Chalcedony which is on the oppofite Shore, is lb odd a
place, that they may well be call'd blind, that firft pitch'd on it. The
Haven of Confiantincple is a Bafbn feven or eight miles in circuit towards
the City, and as much on the Suburbs fide : its Entrance, about 600
. pl0m0nt0- paces broad, begins at the Point of the Seraglio, or the Cape of St De-
rium chryfo- metr-ms fituated in the South ; it is the ' Cape of Bofphorus, where flood

tens. Pun. \ A ■"■ '

Hifl. Nat. nb. the antient Town of Byzantium. Thence to the Weft, the Port extends
Bofphorium like a ' crooked Horn, which may more juftly be compared to that of

^oii^cap^. an ^x r^an a Sta§> as StrAbo nas ir> f°r r^e Coaft has no in-and-out Turn-
' K'nhmi t5 ings like Divifions : it is true, M. Gilles 5 obferves, there have been many
K^f« VbJ-* Alterations that have deftroy'd its antient Form. This Port opens to the
jj**^ Eaft, and faces Scutari ; Galata and Cajfun-Pacha are to the North : laftly
lib. 7. it terminates to the North-North-Weft, where the River Lye us empties

' De Bofph. J r

Thrac. Ll.C.J. it

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 367

it felf. This River is made up of two Streams ; the biggeft, on which Lett. XII.
is the ' Paper-Mill, comes from Belgrade, the * other flows from the 'SJCm^-
North-Well:. The Lycm is not every where navigable, and therefore f^ZmMf*
there are Stakes to point out the fureft places. The Stream that comes eaWdh^fffa.
from the North- Weft is not practicable for Boats farther than the Village ^t™
of Hali-bei-cui. The other is deep enough, for about four miles : to go
from Vera to Adrian ople, you crofs thefe two Streams over Bridges. s Apol- * s«¥0i-?o£
loniits Thyan&w perform'd a world of Magick Ceremonies on thefe Wa-
ters : they are of wondrous ufe to cleanfe the Haven, for defcending from
the North- Weft, they wafh all the Coaft of Cajfun-Pacha and Galata,
while part of the Waters of the Canal of the Black Sea, which defcend
from the North like a Torrent, as * Dion Cajfim obferves, dafh violently 4 Apud xipfea.
againft the Cape of the Bofphorus, and recoil to the right towards the
Weft : by this motion they fweep away the Mud that might gather about
Conftantinople, and by a piece of natural Mechanifm ihove it on by de-
grees as far as the frefli Waters. Thefe freih Waters help to preferve the
Shipping, for Experience fhews that they are lefs iubjecl: to be worm-
eaten in fiich Ports where there's frefli Water, than where there's fait :
the Fifli too take greater delight in fuch Waters, and are better tailed.
The Port of Conftantinople abounds with Tunny-fifh, call'd Pelamides by lantw pam«,
the Antients: we fee them frequently reprefented on the Medals of By- T^ZTmZx-
zantium. with the Heads of the Emperors Caligula, Claudiu-s, Caracalla, re aut"mm>

7 tr . comitantur.

Geta, Gordianm, Pias, Gallien, and the Emprefies Sabina, Lucillia, Crif- Limofi vera i
Una, 'Julia Mcefa, and Julia Mamcea. Pliny fays, that under the water maprant"!©.
towards Cbalcedon, there were white Rocks that feared the Tunnies, and ca"> & c^"
forced 'em into the Port of Byzantium : Dolphins too fbmetimes appear feie tewpm;
there in fuch numbers, the Port fvvarms with 'em ; they are often fifh'd mft.Nat, uL
for, their Teeth are like a ! Saw : but Pliny was miftaken in the Story of9' ("p' *5*

7 ; IT2AN*

the white Rock above-mention'd, for the Tunny-filh go as far as Choi- t i a n.
cedon. where there are caught great numbers of them. £"ft- N"- „

PROCOPIVS, in commendation of the Port of Conftantinople, fays »Prift«s.
it is ^Thorough-Port ; that is, you may anchor in any part of it: and Aw j1 &j*
'tis juftly obferv'd by him, that the Ships there have their Prow on land r>71$i?fli.
while the Poop is in the water j as if thefe two Elements contended llb' ' *"'1p- 5*
which fhould be moft ferviceable to the City. In fhallowcr places, you

363

A Vo vaoe into the Levant.

Xipbilin.

.Zonar. Hill
Jib. 12.

go upon a Plank into the biggeft Ships ; fo there's no occafion for a Cha-
loupe to lade or unlade 'em. Goltzius makes relation of a Medal of
Bjzas Founder of Byzantium, on the Reverfe whereof is a Ship's Prow.
In the King's Cabinet there are two Medals in the name of the By-
z,aritines, on one is reprefented a Ship hoifting fail, on the other a hu-
man Figure with a Pike in its hand, and feeming to Hand Centry on
the Prow of the Ship. By all which it is plain the Byzantines loved the
Sea, and knew how to improve the advantages of their Harbour ; I
wonder they omitted to grave on their Medals thole Gallies with two
Helms, one at the Head, the other at the Stern : there ufed to be a
Abridgment of Steerfman at each, according to Xiphilin's Defcription. The Gallies of
impevoi &- the Byzantines, at the time when that Emperor befieged their City, went
forwards and backwards in a direct line by means of thefe two Pieces :
and therefore the ufe of two Helms in one Gaily, is no new Invention.
The Defcription of Bjzantium, and of that famous Siege, is one of the
fineit. things in Antiquity. The Byzantines fignaliz'd themfelves by Land
and Sea : their Divers would not only go and cut the Enemy's Ships from
their Anchors, but would tye Ropes to 'em under water, and fb drag 'em
wherever they would ; in fuch manner, that the Ships ieem'd to come of
their own accord, and furrender themfelves. They employ'd the Beams
of their Houfes to build Ships with, and the Hair of their Wives Heads
ro make Ropes and Cordage : they would dart into the Enemy's Tren-
ches the Statues that adorn'd their Town, and after they had confumed
all their Leather, would feed upon each other.

WOULD the Turks bend their thoughts to Navigation, they might
make themfelves formidable that way j for they have the bell Harbours
of any in the Mediterranean : they would be mailers of all the Trade to
the Eaft, by favour of their Ports in the Red Sea, which would open 'em
a door to the Eajl-Indiest China, Japan ; Places which the Chriftians
can't reach without doubling the Cape of Good Hope. But the Turks hug
themfelves at home, pleas'd to fee all the Nations of the World come
to them.

NOTHING but the Eafl: Wind can difturb the Port of Con ft antinomic,
it being totally expos'd thereto : whenever it blows hard from tha:
Quarter, cfpccially if it be in the night, it occafions a frightful hurly-
burly ;

I
Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 369

burly ; for the Seamen make fuch a bawling, and the Dogs fiich a barking, Lett. XII.
that one would think the Town was going to be fwallow'd up, if onew>~v >w
were not appriz'd of the caufe of it.

THE Seradio it felf is not free from this Alarm : for that Palace is Padifcha-Serai,

0 Palace of the

jutl at the mouth of the Port, and flands on the very fpot of the old Bj-
zantiurn, on the Point of the Peninfula of Thrace, exactly where the Bof- p*™J?tt$%A
phorus is. The Seraglio (the Workmanlhip of Mahomet II.) is near three p^'^a an
miles about : it is a kind of Triangle, whole fide next the City is the uund. H.'ft.
biggeft ; that next the Bofpboras is at the Eaft, and the other, that forms ^"falm. Pa3-
the Entrance of the Port, is in the North. The Apartments are on the
top of the Hill, and the Gardens below, ftretching to the Sea : the Walls
of the City, flank'd with their Towers, joining themfelves to the ' Point ' Serai-bomnu,
of St. Demetrius, make the Circumference of this Palace towards the Sea. ^esmuiu
As great as the Compafs of it is, the Outfide of the Palace has no- A,*£* X?1"""
thing curious to boaft of, and if one may judge of the Beauty of its ^ '
Gardens by the Cyprefs-Trees which are difcernable in 'em, they don't
much exceed thofe of private Men. That the Inhabitants of Galata, and
other Places in that Neighbourhood, may not fee the Sultanas walking in
thefe Gardens, they are planted with Trees that are always green.

T H O I faw only the Outfide of the Seraglio, I am perfuaded that its
Infide can mew nothing of what we call flately and noble ; becaufe the
Turks have hardly any Notion of Magnificence, and follow no one Rule
of good Architecture : if they have made fine Mofques, it is becaufe they
had a fine Model before their eyes, the Church of St. Sophia ; a Model
which indeed is .not to be follow'd in the Erection of Palaces. By the
Turkijb Pavilions (a larger fort of Building) a Man may eafily perceive
he is moving from Italy, and approaching towards Perfta, nay China it felf.

THE Apartments of the Seraglio have been made at different times,
and according to the Capricioufheis of the Princes and Sultanefles : thus
is this famed Palace a heap of Houfes cluttering together without any
manner of Order ; no doubt they are fpacious, commodious, richly fur-
niih'd. Their beft Ornaments are not Pictures, nor Statues ; but Paint-
ings after the Turkijh manner, inlaid with Gold and Azure, diverfify'd
with Flowers, Landskips, Tail-pieces, (fuch as the Printers adorn the
End of a Book or Chapter with) and Compartments like Labels contain-
Vol. I. B b b ing

los Leones.

cqo A Voyage into the Levant.

ing Arabian Sentences, the fame as in the private Honfes of Conjlantinonle .-■
Marble Bafons, Bagnios, fponting Fountains, are the delight of the Orien-
tals, who place them over the firft Floor, without fear of over-preflW
the Cieling. This too was the Tafte of the Saracens and Moors, as ap-
pears by their antient Palaces, efpecially that of Alhambra at Granada in
Spain, where they ftill fhew, as a Prodigy of Architecture, the Pave-
ei Qiiato de ment of the Lions Quarter, made of Blocks of Marble bigger than the
Tombftones in our Churches.

I F there's any thing curious in the Seraglio, 'tis what the EmbaiTadors
of foreign Princes have brought thither, fuch as French and Venice Glafs,
Perfian Carpets, Oriental Vafes. 'Tis faid moft of the Pavilions are
fupported by Arches, under which are lodg'd the Officers that ferve the
Sultanas : thefe Ladies dwell over-head, in Apartments commonly termi-
nated by a Dome cover'd with Lead, or by Spires with gilded Crefcents ;
the Balconies, the Galleries, the Cabinets, the Belvederes, are the moft
agreeable Places of thefe Apartments. In fhort, notwithstanding what
has been faid, take it all together, it is anfwerable to the Greatnefs of its
Mafter ; but to make a fine Edifice of it, it muft be pull'd down, and the
Materials employ'd to build another, on a new Model.

THE principal Entrance of the Seraglio is a huge Pavilion, with
eight Openings over the Gate, (or Porte.) This Porte, from whence the
Ottoman Empire took its name, is very high, fimple, femicircular in its
Arch, with an Arabian Infcription beneath the Bend of the Arch, and
two Niches, one on each fide, in the Wall. It looks rather like a Guard-
houfe, than the Entrance to a Palace of one of the greateft Princes of
the World ; and yet it was Mahomet II. built it : fifty Capigis or Porters
keep this Gate; but they have generally no Weapon but a Wand or
white Rod. At firft you enter into a large Court-yard, not near fo broad
as long ; on the right are Infirmaries for the Sick, on the left Lodges for

the Azancoglans, that is, Perfons employ'd in the moft fordid Offices of

the Seraglio : here the Wood is kept, that ferves for Fuel to the Palace ;

there is every year confumed 40000 Cart-load, each Load as much as two

Buffaloes can well draw.

ANY body may enter the firft Court of the Seraglio ; here the Do-

roefticks and Slaves of the Baihaws and Agas wait for their Mafters re-
turning,

Defer iption of the City of Conftantinople. qji

turning, and look after their Horfcs ; but every thing is fo dill, the Mo- Lett. XII.
tion of a Fly might be heard, in a manner : and if any one mould pre-
sume to raiie his Voice ever lb little, or lhew the lead want of Relpecl:
*© the Manfion-place of their Emperor, he would inftantly have the
Baftinado by the Officers that go the rounds ; nay, the very Horles leem
to know where they are, and no doubt they are taught to tread ibfter
here than in the Streets.

THE Infirmaries are for the Sick that belong to theHoufe; they are
carry'd thither in little clofe Carts drawn by two Men. When the Court
is at Conjlantinoph, the chief Phyfician and Chirurgeon vifit this place
every day, and 'tis allured they take great care of the Sick : 'tis even
faid, that many who are in this place are well enough, only they get
thither to refrelli themlelves, and drink their Skin-full of Wine : the life
of this Liquor, tho feverely forbid ellewhere, is tolerated in the Infirma-
ries, provided the Eunuch at the Door does not catch thofe that bring
it ; in which cafe, the Wine is fpiit on the ground, and the Bearers fen-
tenced to receive 2 or 3 00 Baftinadoes.

FROM the firft Court, you go on to the fecond, the Entrance where-
of is alfb kept by fifty Capigis. This Court is fquare, about joo paces
diameter, but much handlbmcr than the firft : the Path-ways are paved,
and the Alleys well kept; the reft confifts of very pretty Turf, whole
Verdure is only interrupted by Fountains which help to prelerve its Frelh-
nefs. The Grand Signior's Treafury and the little Stable are on the
left : here they ihew a Fountain, where formerly they ufed to cut off the
Heads of Baihaws condemn'd to die. The Offices and Kitchens are on
the right, embelifh'd with Domes, but without Chimneys : they kindle a
Fire in the middle, and the Smoke goes out through the holes made in
the Domes. The firft of thefe Kitchens is for the Grand Signior, the
fecond for the chief Sultanefs, the third for the other Sultanas, the fourth
for the Capi-Aga or Commandant of the Gates; in the fifth they drels
the Meat for the Minifters of the Divan ; the fixth belongs to the Grand
Signior's Pages, call'd the Ichoglans ; the feventh to the Officers of the
Seraglio ; the eighth is for the Women and Maid-Servants ; the ninth for
all fuch as are obliged to attend the Court of the Divan on days of Scf-
fion. They don't provide much Wild-Fowl, but befides 40000 Beeves

Bbb 2 fpent

37

A Voyage into the Levant.

fpent yearly there, the Purveyors are to furnifli daily 200 Muttons, 100
Lambs or Goats according to the Seafon, 10 Veals, 200 Hens, 200 pair
of Pullets, ioo pair of Pidgeons, 50 Green-Geefe : Victuals enough,
you'll fay. *

ALL round the Court, runs a low Gallery cover'd with Lead, and
fupported by Columns of Marble : none but the Grand Signior himfelf
enters this Court on horleback, and therefore the little Stable is in this
place, but there's not room for above thirty Horfes : over-head they
keep the Harnefs, than which nothing can be richer in Jewels and Em-
broidery. The great Stable, wherein there are about a thoufand Horfes for
the Officers of the Grand Signior, is toward the Sea upon the Bofphoms.
Such days as the foreign Embaffadors are admitted to Audience, the Ja-
nizaries in very handfbme Apparel range themfelves on the right beneath
the Gallery. The Hall where the Divan is held, that is, Juftice-Hall, is
on the left, at the further end of this Court : on the right is a Door which
lets into the infide of the Seraglio ; none pafs through, but fuch as are
fent for. The Hall of the Divan is large, but low, cover'd with Lead,
wainfcotted and gilt after the Moorifo manner, plain enough. On the
Eftrade is fpread but one Carpet for the Officers to fit on : here the Grand
Vifier, affifted by his Couniellors, determines all Caufes civil and crimi-
nal, without Appeal ; the Caimacan officiates for him in his abfence, and
the Embafladors are here entertain'd the day of their Audience. Thus
far may Strangers go in the Seraglio : a Man's Curiofity might coft him
dear, fhould he proceed further.

THE Outfide of this Palace towards the Port has nothing worth no-
tice, but the Kiofc or Pavilion right againft GaUta : it is fupported by a
dozen Pillars of Marble ; it is wainfcotted, richly furnifh'd, and painted
after the Per fun manner. The Grand Signior comes thither fbmetimes to
divert himfelf with viewing what pailes in the Port, or to take the plea-
lure of the Water when he has a mind to't. The Pavilion which is to-
ward the Bqfphorm, is higher than that of the Port, and built on Arches
which fuppoit three Salons terminated by gilded Domes.. The Prince
comes thither to (port with his Women and Mutes : all thefe Keys
are cover'd with Artillery, without Carriages ; molt of the. Cannon are
planted level with the Water : the largeft Piece is that which, they fay,

forc'd;

rDefrription of the City of Conftantinople. 373

forc'd Babylon to furrcndcr to Sultan Mcurat, and by way pf diflinclion Lett. XII.

has an Apartment to it ielf. This Artillery is what the Mahometans re- ^^ v ^

joicc to hear, for when they are fired, 'tis to notify that Lent is at an Ramraan w

' J J Ramazan.

end ; they arc likewife fired on publick Rejoicing-Days.

WHEN the Grand Signior is atConJlantinople, he fometimes amufes
himfelf with ubferving from this Kiofc the ridiculous Ceremonies of the
Greeks on the Transfiguration-Day, at a ' Fountain hard by. They not • ApWf<*>f£*
only fancy this Water will cure a Fever, but all other Diftempers prefent Ho y
and to come. And therefore they don't content themlelves with carrying
thither their Sick, to drink of the Water, but they bury 'em in the Sand
up to the Chin, and then take 'cm out again the moment after : fuch as
are well, waih in it, and drink of it till it comes out as clear as it went
in. All Greece is full of fuch Fountains, but they are not mineral ; their
whole Reputation is owing to the Peoples Credulity. There's a large
Window near the Source, out of which are thrown in the night fuch
as have been ftranglcd in the Seraglio ; and for every Perfbn fb ferv'd,
there is a Cannon difcharg'd. The Grand Signior's Barge-Houfes are
near thefe Kiofcs, and are under the care of the Boftangi-Bachi : thefe
Barges or Gallies, are made ufe of when the Grand Signior goes to the
Seraglio from Scutari... They are fteer'd by the Boftangi-Bachi when
the Grand Signior is on board ;. are very light and very neat : their Oars
are painted and gilded. Fanari-Kjofc is a Pavilion that Socman II. built
at the foot of the Light-houfe on the Cape of Cbalcedon : 'tis faid this
Pavilion is exceeding fine, and that its Gardens ate better contrived than
thofe of the Seraglio.

AFTER viewing the Greeks Fountain, we enter'd the Port, and made
towards the Seraglio of Looking-Glaffes : it is of no large compafs j behind
its Walls is the place where the Turks exercife themfelves in ihooting with Ocmeidan,.
the Bow. Near it is a kind of Gallery, where the Turks go in Procef-
fion, to pray for good Succels in an approaching Battel ; and fometimes
to deprecate the Plague, when it is very raging, that is, when it carries off
1000 or 1200 in a day.

WHILE we were ranging about the Port, we were fhewn fbrne
Stakes or Foils Handing in the Water, to notify how far the great Ships
mi^ht find Anchorage. From hence, we proceeded to the. Coaft of Cafiutt-

■k Puhoj.

374 A Voyage into the Levant.

Pachit, where is the Arfenal call'd Ters-hana, from the Perfian word Ttrs
Ships, and Nana a Place to build in. Here are built the Grand Signior's
Ships; we counted 28 fine ones, from 60 to 100 Guns. There are 120
Houfes arch'd over head for keeping the Galleys : the Store-houfes and
Work-houfes are under very good OeconOmy ; all here is lubjecl to the
Captain-Balhaw. The chief Sea-Officers are lodg'd here ; and but few
Chriftians are leen, unlefs it be the Slaves who are in the Bagno, that is
in one of the lidded Prifons in the world. It has three Chappels, one for
fuch Chriftians as are of the Greek Perfuafion, and two for thole of the
Latin ; one of the latter belongs to the King of France, the other to the
Venetians, Italians, Germans, and Poles : the Miffionaries confefs there,
fay Mais, adminifter the Sacraments, make Exhortations in full liberty,
paying a final! Acknowledgment to the Commandant of the Bagno;
whofe Place is in the Captain Bafhaw's Gift, who is almoft abfolute in his
Office, accountable to none but the Grand Signior, for which reafbn 'tis
reckon'd one of the bell Polls in the Empire.

FROM the Suburb call'd Cajfun-Pacha, you croft fome Burying-
sW< 3 ew- places to go to Galata, which is the handfomeil Suburb of the whole
foTeM A'- City, and formerly made its thirteenth Region. It is built over againll
!£°wS' the Seraglio, in the Fig-Tree Quarter. ' Jupnian repair'd this Suburb,
(cm>*. Socrat. and gave it the name of Jufliniana : 'tis not known why it was call'd Ga-

1 1 1 c. 30.

2»<s*}.Hefych. ^Atx f°me time after that Emperor's death, unlefs with Tz.etz.es you'll have
Miles. it derived from the G dates or Gauls, who crofs'd the Port about this

de .tdif. juft.' place. But Codings Thought is more probable : he makes it come from
*yS<aw <&" a Gaul or Galate, as the Greeks pronounce it, who fettled himfelf in this
tuwok n To.- Suburb, call d by the Greeks Galatou, and fince Galata. The Greeks of
iw'tw. "" Constantinople have a kind of Tradition, that Galata comes from Gda
Theophan. w hich in their Tongue signifies Milk : fo this part of the Town was
fuohixvw- named the Suburb of Milk, becaufe the Milk- Women lived there.
nfeT'ntM- GALATA forms the Entrance of the Port Northerly, and here it was
linri »-r«t- they laid the Chain that barricado'd it : Xipbiltn has not forgot this Chain
PadJym* Du* in the defcription he has given, after Dion Qaflim, of the Siege of Byzan-
tas. nz. tuim ^y tjie j;mperor Seve'rtfs. Leo lfaurittt, according to Tbeopbanes,
took away this Chain, when the Saracens came before the Place to be-
fiegc it, which made 'em give over their Defign ; for they were afraid left

-I- the

Defer iption of the City of Conitantinople. 275

the Chain, after they were enter'd the Port, mould be laid again, and Lett. XII
ihut'em in. ' Michael the Stammerer, on the contrary, made uie of it 'z-iwr. ^^
to hinder Thomas from coming in. ' Conftantiae Paleolcgus, the laft Greek 'Chalevcond.
Emperor, opposM this Chain to the Fleet of Mahomet II. nor did that
mighty Conqueror, haughty as he was, dare fo much as to attempt to
cut or force it : he perform'd however fomething more extraordinary, for
by his orders were dragg'd by human Strength leventy Ships, befides Gal- Hi,K iuxta Ga*
lies, up the Hill on the Coaft of Pera ; where after he had rigg'd and eoiiem quem-
inann'd 'em, he launch'd 'em into the Port, fill'd with Artillery. milem tranfi*"

GAL AT A is defended by pretty good Walls, flank'd with old Towers : Portari L vel

J l J a > ' lx naves in

but thefe Walls have been beaten down and built again at different times. Lif«° cui-avir,
Michael Paleologus having mafter'd Confiantinople through the Valour pf utfi in fcari *
Strategopule, or the little General, who obliged Baldwin II. the laftj^8!*^"
French Emperor, to retire ; gave this Place to the Genoefe, with whom he H;/]- Mujfulm.
had made an Alliance : this was after he had razed its Walls, according to
%Pachymerus and4 Gregoras. The Emperor rather choie to rid himfelf of Padiym. !ib.
fuch cunning Blades as the Genoefe, and coop 'em up in this Quarter, ♦ Gregor. lV
than leave 'em in Conftantitwple, from whence they might peradventure 12?I-
have expell'd him himfelf. ' The Donation was made on the following c. 3! ] )m'
Terms : 1 . When their Podejlat mould arrive there, he was by way of ^acuz- L u
Homage to come and kneel to the Emperor at the Door, and in the Cod'n«
middle of the Audience-Chamber, before he prefumed to kiis his Feet
and Hands. 2. The Genoeje Lords mould do the fame, whenever they
came to pay their court to him. j. The fame Honours to the Emperor
mould be paid by the Genoeje Ships, as were accuftom'd to be done by
thofe of the Grecians when they enter'd the Port. The ' Genoefe, notwith- * Gregor, L5,
Handing thefe advantageous Conditions, were not long e'er they quarrel'd
with the new Emperor ; the 7 Venetians themfelves attack'd 'em finartly 1 idem, lib. &
under Andronicus the Old, who fucceeded Michael : all this obliged them ^ \u ...

' o pachym. lib. 9.

to fortify themfelves with good Ditches, and build Country- Houfes, like caP*5-
fo many little Redoubts ; but they had the vexation to fee 'em pull'd
down by order of8 Andronicus the Younger, from whom they had ra- ' GregorJ.it.
vilh'd the Ifle of Metelin, which put 'em upon thefe Meafures of making
head againft the Emperors. In fhort, during the Troubles of the Em-
pire, they fo well fortify'd Galata under 9 John Paleologus and Cantacuzenus, ' Cawacuz.'

, lib, 4. «p. Bio

qj6 A Voyage into the Levant.

that it was look'd upon as a Citadel dangerous to Conflantinople it {elf.

The Turks having attacked Galata, obliged the Greeks and Tartars too
i4<n. 28june. to fheer off'; but at laft the Genoefe were overpower'd, and their Podejtat
lib. 8. deliver'd up the Keys to Mahomet II. the fame day that Constantinople was

J2ucas'caP-39' taken.
Phianz. lib. 3. THERE are flill to be feen on the Tower of Galata fome Coats of

cap. 1 'i.

Arms, and Infer iptions relating to fome of that Nation : thefe forts of
Monuments moulder away of themfetves, the Turks never pull 'em down
unlefs they want Materials for building Mofques, Bazars, or Bagnios, in
which cafe nothing can efcape 'em. Galata is divided into three Quar-
ters, from Caffun-Pacha as far as to Topana .« the Walls and Towers that
feparate thefe Quarters, are flill in being. The Quarter of Hafap-Capi
begins about Caffun-Pacha, and ends at the Mofque of the Arabs, where
terminates the Partition-Wall that runs from the Tower of Galata to-
wards the South-Wefl : thence as far as the Cuftom-houfe is that Quarter
call'd Galata of the Cufloms, and the Partition- Wall reaches to the great
Tower of Galata. Cara-cui is the third Quarter, and ends at Topana.

THE Mofque of the Arabs was a Church of the Dominicans, as an-
tient as the time of St. Hyacinth, who procured it to be built, as like-
wife another Church at Conflantinople. The Mofque of the Arabs was
taken from the Dominicans, about a hundred Years ago, as a Forfeiture,
and apply'd to the ufe of the Mahometan Granadins : there is no altera-
tion made in it ; the Gothick Windows and Infcriptions continue on the
Gates; the Belfry, which is a fquare Tower, ferves for a Minaret. The
Dominicans have alfo a Church at Galata dedicated to St. Peter, of which
they have been in pofTeflion for above 300 Years. The Trench Capu-
chins have had there for above 100 Years a Church call'd St. George; it
belongs to the Genoefe. The Greeks have three Churches in the Quarter
of Cara-cui, and the Armenians one by the name of St. Gregory. The
Latins polTefs that of St. Benedict^ which in the time of the Genoefe be-
iong'd to the Benedi&ines ; but it was given to the Jefuits by the Com-
munity of Pera. The Recolets, or Zocolanti, have a Being at Per a right
againft the Holpital of the Fathers of the Holy Land, whofe fole Bufinefs
at Conflantinople is to take care of the Affairs of the Holy Places. The
Cordeliers were Curates at Galata for 400 Years, but their Church is con-
verted

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 377

verted to a Mofque, call'd by the Franks the Mofque of St. Francis, and Lett. XII.
by the Turks the Mofque of Valide the prefent Sultanefs, who has contri- V-C?^V^>J
buted to the rebuilding of it. This Church was loft purely by the fault
of the Italian Monks, who lived a molt irregular Life : they fold by re-
tail Wine and Brandy, a moft abominable Trade in the eye of a Turk.
They have fondly inferted in the Letters-Patent of its Foundation, That
they have converted a Place of Scandal and Infamy, into a Houfe of God.
The Cordeliers at prefent are withdrawn to Per a, where they receive their
Parilhioners in a Room of their Houfe, which they have turn'd into a
Chappel : their Superior is Vicar to the Patriarch of Conftantinople, who
is ufually a Cardinal.

ONE taftes in Galata a fmatch of Liberty, not to be found elfe-
where throughout the Ottoman Empire. Galata is as it were Chrifiendom
in Turky : Taverns are tolerated, and the Turks themfelves refrain not
from 'em, but freely refort thither to take a chearful Glafs. The Fifh-
Market is worth feeing, and furpafTes that on the other fide the Port go-
ing to St. Sophia : this of Galata is a long Street, furnim'd on both fides
with the fined Fiih in the world.

YOU go up from Galata to Per a, which is as it were its Suburb, and rit^s, trans,
was formerly confounded under the fame name. Pera is a Greek Word,
fignifying beyond ; and the Greeks of Conjtantinople, when they are minded
to go beyond the Port, ftill ufe this word, which has been taken by
Strangers for the whole Quarter. This Quarter including Galata and
Pera, is call'd' Perea by Nicetas, by Gregoras, by Pachymerus, and plain ' ns^cia.
Pera by other Authors • but at prefent Pera is diftinguiih'd from Galata,
and is precifely nothing but the Suburb fituated beyond the Gate of that
Town. The Greeks in like manner call Paflage-Boats Peramidia, and n^.*,
the Franks by Corruption Permes. The Situation of Pera is perfectly tLTy pjfap
charming; from it you have a View of the whole Coaft of Afia, and of^w/
the Grand Signior's Seraglio. The EmbafTadors of France, England, Ve- ^Effort-
nice, and Holland, have their Palaces in Pera : the Embaflador of the
King of Hungary, (for under that Title, and no other, the Emperor fends
him) thofe of Poland, and of Ragufa, are lodg'd in Confiantinople. We
have already taken notice of the Palace of France, the Chappel whereof
is ferv'd by Capuchin Fryars, who are likewife the Teachers of certain
Vol. I. C c c young

373

A Votage into the Levant.

young Lads the King fends thither to learn the Turkish, Arabian, and
Greek Languages, that they may afterwards ferve for Interpreters to the
French Confuls in the Ports of the Levant. The foreign Merchants have
their Houfes and Ware-houfes in Pera, as well as in Galata, promifcuoufly
with the Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Turks. There's a Seraglio in Per a,
where are brought up the Children of the Tribute, i. e. fuch as have been
chofen out by the Grand Signior's Officers from among the Greeks in
Europe, to ferve about the Perfbn of his Highnels after they are made
Muffulmans, and are inftructed in the neceffary Exercifes. This Cuftom
being difcontinu'd, the Seraglio runs to decay.

FROM Per a you go down to Topana, another Suburb, juft as you
enter the Canal of the Black Sea : here fuch as have a mind to divert
themfelves on the Water, ulually take Boat. Nothing is fb agreeable as
the Amphitheatre form'd by the Houfes of Galata, Pera, and Topana9
running from the tops of the Hills as far as the Sea. Topana is fbme-
wbat lefs than either of the other. Mezomorto, who was Captain-Baihaw
in 1 701, built a handfbme Seraglio here. A hundred paces from the
Sea Hands the Arfenal or Foundery for Cannon (call'd Topana in Turkijb)
it is a Houfe cover'd with low Domes, and has given its name to the
whole Quarter. The Turks call very good Cannon, they ufe good Stuff,
and obferve a juft Proportion ; but their Artillery is as plain as poffible
without the leaft Ornament.

THE Turks are no Draughts-men, they have no Notion of Drawing,
nor ever will, being forbid by their Religion to deflgn any manner of
Figures ; and without Figures the Tafte can't be form'd, either in Sculp-
ture or Painting : the Turks therefore are ne'er the better for thole An-
tiques they have up and down among 'em. There are but two Obelisks
and fome few Columns at Conftantinople, befides fbme Bas-Reliefs at the
Codin. & Seven Towers. The Obelisks are in a place call'd Atmeidan, mention'd
before to have been the antient Hippodrome or Running-place for Horfes •
the Turks have done little more than tranflate the Name of it, for At in
Turki[h fignifies a Horfe, and Meidan a place ; it is about 400 paces
long, and 100 wide.

EVE RY Friday, for the mod part, when Service is over at the

Mofques, the young Turks that pretend to Feats of Activity, get together

* at

Defer iption of the City of Conftantinople. qjc?

at this place, well drefs'd and handfomly mounted; where they divide Lett. XII.
thcrnfelves into two Companies, at each end one. On giving a Signal, a ~*^"V~^J
Horfeman darts from each fide, and runs full fpeed with a long kind of
Dart in his hand ; the Excellency of their Performance confifts in throw-
ing this Dart and hitting their Advcrfary, or in avoiding the Blow : their
Motion is inconceivably fwift, and their Dexterity and Addrefs on horfe-
back miraculous.

THE Obelisk of Granate or Thebaick Stone is ftill in the Atmeidan : T«T?*TWe?p
it is a four-corner'd Pyramid, of one fingle Piece, about fifty foot high, fM'"K'^"'-
terminating in a Point, charg'd with Hieroglyphicks, now unintelligible :
a Proof however of its being very antient, and wrought in Egypt. By the
Greek and Latin Infcriptions at the Bafe, we learn that the Emperor Theo-
dofius caus'd it to be fet up again, after it had lain on the ground a con-
fiderable time ; the Machines which were made ufe of in rearing it, are
reprefented in Bas- Relief. Nicetas, in the Life of St. Ignatius Patriarch Nicetas Paph-
of Conftantinople, obferves that this Obelisk had at its top a brazen Pine- ag' „.
Apple, which was thrown down by an Earthquake. caw.

HARD by are feen the Remains of another Obelisk with four Faces,
built with different Pieces of Marble ; the tip of it is fallen, and the reft coioflus ftruc-
can't long continue : this Obelisk was cover'd over with brazen Plates, as
is apparent from the holes made to receive the Pegs that faften'd 'em to
the Marble. Thefe Plates were certainly fet off with Bas-Reliefs and
other Ornaments ; for the Infcription at the bottom fpeaks of it as a
Work altogether marvellous. Bondelmont, in his Defcription of Conftan-
tinople, makes the other Obelisk to be 24 Cubits high, and this 58 ; per-
haps it (imported the brazen Column of the three Serpents. The Infcrip-
tion tranflated, is as follows : The Emperor Conftantine now reigning, Fa-
ther of Romanus the Glory of the Empire, has made much more wonderful
than it was before, this admirable fquare Pyramid, which Time had deftrofd,
and which was crouded with fublime things ; for the incomparable Coloffus was
at Rhodes, and this furprizing Work here.

I T is not known what were thefe fublime things, nor what relation
there was between this Work and the Coloffus of Rhodes, unlefs their
being both wonderful in their kind. In fhort, 'tis a perfect Riddle.

Ccc 2 THE

38<

A Voyage into the Levant.

THE Column of the three Serpents is no better known ; it is about
fifteen foot high, form'd by three Serpents turn'd fpirally like a Roll of
Tobacco ; their Contours diminilh infenfibly from the Bafe as far as the
Necks of the Serpents, and their Heads fpreading on the fides like a Tri-
pos, compofe a kind of Chapiter. Sultan Mourat is faid to have broke
away the Head of one of 'em : the Pillar was thrown down, and both the
other Heads taken away in 1700, after the Peace of Carlowitz. What's be-
come of 'em, no body can tell, but the reft has been fet up again, and is
among the Obelisks, at like diftance from each other : this Column of
Brafs is of the very earlieft, fuppofing it brought from Delpbos> where it
ferv'd to bear up that famous golden Tripod, which the Greeks after the
Battel of Platea found in the Camp of Mardonius. This Tripos, Hero-
L>b. 9- dotus lays, was borne on a brazen three-headed Serpent : it was confe-
crated to Apollo, and placed near the Altar in his Temple of Delphos.
Paufanias, General of the Lacedemonians at the Battel of PUtea, was for
Paufan Pho- exPrefliHg this piece of Gratitude to that God. Paufanias the Gramma-
mic. rian, who was of C<efarea in Cappadocia, and who in the fecond Age pub-

lifh'd a fine Delcription of Greece, takes notice of this lame Tripod :
After the Battel of Platea, fays he, the Greeks made a Prefent to Apollo of
a golden Tripod (landing on a brazen Serpent. It is by no means un-
likely this mould be it ; for befides that Z^zimm and Sozomenes affirm the
Emperor Conjlantine caus'd the Delpbick Tripods to be brought hither,
Euftbiiis relates, that this Tripod fo tranlported did Hand on a Serpent
folded fpirally.

SUCH as will have thefe Serpents to be Talilmans, have lome colour
for lb thinking, from the Byzantines praying Apollonius Tkyantus to drive
away the Serpents and Scorpions, as Gljcas writes. 'Twas a common
Trade with Apollonius, to reprefent in Brais the Figures of luch Creatures
Amui.Giyc. as he pretended to expel: for the lame Gljcas writes, that he erected a
brazen Scorpion in Aniioch, in order to deliver that City from. Scorpions.

I N the Street call'd Adrianople, they ihew'd us the burnt Column ; and
well may it be call'd ib, for 'tis fb black and irnoke-dry'd by the frequent
Fires that have happcn'd to the Houfes thereabouts, 'tis no eafy matter
to find out what 'tis made of. But upon a narrow Inipe&ion, it appear'd
to be Porphyry-Stones, the Junctures hid with Copper Rings. 'Tis

^ thought

part;

Ttefcription of the City of Conftantinople. 381

thought Confiantine's Figure flood on it ; by the Infcription we Iearnr, Lett. XIL
That that admirable Piece of Workmanship was refiored by the molt pious Em- t/sXiT^
per or Manuel Comnenes. G lye as reports, that towards the Clofe of the w> &c-
Reign of Nicephorus Botoniates, who was fhaven and put into a Cloifter^
Confiantine's Column was ttruck with Thunder, and that this Column flip-
ported the Figure of Apollo, then call'd by that Emperor's Name.

THE Column call'd Hifiorical is not of fo valuable StuffJ it being
only plain Marble ; but 'tis remarkable for its height, which is 147 feet;
and for its Bas-Reliefs, which are well-defign'd for thofe times, 'tis pity
the Fire has 10 disfigur'd 'em : they reprefent the Victories of the Empe-
ror Arcadius ; the conquer'd Towns appear under the fhape of Women y
whole Heads are crown'd with Towers : the Horfes are finely done ; bur;
the Emperor is fitting in a kind of Elbow-Chair in a Fur-Gown, not un-
like a Judge. The Labarum, or Imperial Standard,, is over his head,
held by two Angels with the Device of the Chriftian Emperors, Jefus *■ x.Nnta*.
Chritt is Conqueror. As for Martian's Column, tho it be of Granate, it
is not much inquired after ; it does more honour to MelTieurs Span and
Wheeler who firft difcover d it, than to Tatianus who erected it : it may.
have been the Urn wherein that Emperor's (Marcianus) Heart was put,
'Tis fbmewhat flrange this Column efcaped the Curioficy of M.G/lles, in-
his exact Defcription of Constantinople : it Hands in a private Court -yard,
clofe by the Street call'd Adrianople, near the Baths of Ibrahim Bafhaw.

AFTER well obferving this Street, the longefl and broaden: of any
in the City, the next Walk ufually is the Bazars or Bezeflins, Places like
our Changes for felling fine Wares of all forts. The old and new Bazar
fland pretty near each other ; they are large fquare Buildings, cover'd with
Domes fupported by Arches and Pilafters. In the old one there is but?
little fine Merchandize ; it was built in 1461 : here they fell all forts of nucaS) H.Tt,
Weapons, efpecially Sabres ; and likewife Horfe-Harnefs, fbme of which B?z' "F'^1-
are enrich'd with Gold, Silver, and precious Stones. The new Bazar is
replenilh'd with all manner of Merchandize ; and tho there's none buc
Goldfmiths Shops, yet they fell Furs, Verts, Carpets, Stuffs of Gold and
Silver, Silk, Goats-hair ; nor is it without Jewels and China- Ware. They
are now repairing it ; it will be much more lightfome than before : there-
will be Apartments for Officers that have the guard of it, and go their

rounds.

382 A Voyage into the Levant.

rounds day and flight; The Goods are well fecured in thefe places ; the
Gates lhut betimes. The Turks retire to their own homes in the City,
but the Chrifiian and Jetvijb Merchants crof's the Water, and return next

morning.

THE Market for Slaves of both Sexes is not far off; here the poor
Wretches fit in a melancholy pofture : before they cheapen 'em, they
turn 'em about from this fide to that, furvey 'em from top to bottom, put
'em to exercife whatever they have learnt •, and this feveral times a day,
without coming to any Agreement. Such of 'em, both Men and Wo-
men, to whom Dame Nature has been niggardly of her Charms, are fee
apart for the vileft Services ; but fuch Girls as have Youth and Beauty,
pafs their time well enough, only they often force 'em to turn Mahometans.
The Retailers of this Human Ware are the Jews, who take good care of
their Slaves Education, that they may fell the better : their choiceft they
keep at home, and there you mufl go, if you'd have better than ordi-
nary ; for 'tis here as 'tis in Markets for Horfes, the handfbmeft don't
always appear, but are kept within doors : thefe Jews teach their beauti-
ful She-Slaves to dance, fing, play on Inftruments, and every thing elfe
that may inlpire Love. Sometimes they marry very advantageoufly, and
feel nothing of Slavery ; they have the fame liberty in their Houfes, as
the Turkijb Women themfelves.

NOTHING'S fo pleafant, as to fee inceffantly coming from Hun-
gtry, Greece, Candia, RuJJta, Mengrelia, and Georgia, Swarms of young
Wenches defign'd for the Service of the Turks. The Sultans, the Ba-
fhaws, and the greatefl Lords, often chufe their Wives among 'em.

THE Women whom Fortune allots to the Seraglio, are not always
the belt, difpos'd of : 'tis true, a poor Shepherd's Daughter may come to
be Sultanefs, but then what numbers of 'em are neglected by the Sultan ?
After the death of the Sultan, they are fliut up for the reft of their days
in the old Seraglio, where they pine themfelves away unlefs fbme Bafhavv
courts 'em. This old Seraglio, which flands hard by Sultan Bajazefs
Mofque, was built by Mahomet II. Here are confined thefe poor Wo-
men, to bewail at leifure the Death of a Prince, or that of their Chil-
dren, whom the new Sultan often caufes to be ftrangled : 'twould be a
crime to fhed a Tear in the Seraglio where the Emperor refides ; on the

con-

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 383

contrary, every body ftrives to exprefs their Joy for his Acceflion to Lett. XII.
the Throne. *•- f~V"v-

THE great Square near the Mofque of Sultan Bajazet, is the place
where the Mountebanks and Jugglers with their Cups and Balls play their
Tricks. We had not time to lee them, nor a thouland other things be-
fides. We endeavour'd, but to no purpofe, to fee the Caftle of the Seven 'Evlnmnim
Towers, fituated at the further end of the Town toward the main Land ^edl™ule>ieP-

' tem Turres,

and the Sea of Marmara. Every body knows, this Caflle took its name » a^W/?
from thofe fame Towers cover'd with Lead : 'tis a kind of Baftile or Pri- w6?7h* et7<s
fbn for Perfons of Diftinciion ; but 'tis afiured they admit no Strangers t&T4futJii"
fee it, fince the Chevalier de Beaujeu, who was there confined, found
means to efcape. He had made fuch confiderable Captures on the Turks,
that the Grand Signior reveng'd himfelf on the Head of the Governour,
by caufing it to be (truck off. The gilded Gate, which was the molt
confiderable of Conftantinople under the Greek Emperors, is within this
Prifon-Wall. In the time of the Greek Emperors, there was at this
Gate a kind of Caftle call'd the ' Round Caftle. ' Cantacuzenm, who was ■ kuxa^/oc ?
Emperor for fbme time, lets us know that he render'd it almoft impreg- Ka^^tw
nable by adding new Fortifications, which were demolilh'd by John Pa~ TheoPhan>.
leologus, his Son-in-Law, who thruft him into a Monaftery : Bajaz,et mean = Canwcuz
while threatning to befiege the Town, Paleologus ftrengthen'd with new I,b- 4- «p- 4^
Works the gilded Gates ; but fcarce had they finiih'd 'em, when Bajazet
by his Menaces made 'em demolifh 'em. If this Sultan had not had Tar
merlane upon his hands, he had certainly befieged and taken Conftantinople ;
for Paleologus was too weak to hinder it. The Conqueft of this City was Duca.3 c—^
reierv'd for Mahomet II. 'twas he that put the Caftle in the condition 'tis chalcocondyi..
now in. For fecuring his Treafure, he added three Towers to thofe that LeUn°. pand
were at the gilded Gate, and caus'd it to be wall'd in : theie three Towers Turc' num*
are within the compafs of the City, for the fide the gilded Gate is of,
looks towards the Country. The Place is pentagonal, but not large,
and has no Ditch on the fide of Conftantinople.

W E had a mighty defire to fee the Bas-Reliefs of this Gate. M. Span
afTures us, there are three principal ones ; Phaeton's Fall is repreien-
ted on the firft ; the fecond fhews Hercules dragging Cerbertu ; and
the third, Venus lighted by Cupid's Torch, iurveying the Beauties of an

Adonis

1 39.

384

A Voyage into the Levant.

Adonis flccping : but we prefer'd the March of the Grand Vifier to all
thefe. Such Strangers as cannot make a long flay in Confiantinopley would
be to blame did they neglecT: to fee this Spectacle : we were dazled with it ;
the Ceremony lafted half a day : we had a full View of it in the Adrianople
Street, at a private Houfe. All the Balhaws of the Empire that were then
at Conjlantinople, accompany'd the Prime Vifier on horfeback, all whole
Domefticks were gallantly mounted and richly habited : the other Vifiers
ailifted in it with their Beglerbeys and the Sangiacks, who on fuch occafions
are obliged to march with all their Officers and Domeflicks. The Agas
fail not to appear, nor any ProfefTbrs of the Law, who have bufinefs
with this Lieutenant-General of the Empire : 'tis indeed a Triumph with
refpect to him. You lee the finell Horfes of all the Levant, cover'd

gt/fft*, Amum with Houfings fvveeping_along the ground, embroider'd with Gold and
Silver fo fubftantially, as to ferve for many Generations; the other part
of the Harnefs befet with precious Stones. The Variety of Turbants
and Caps is -extremely delightful. Sabres, Quivers, Arrows, long Darts,
Veils, Fur-Gowns, &c. exceed all defcription. The only thing I dif-
liked, was the Officers, inftead of Piflols, carrying at their Saddle-bow

Mataras. huge Leather Bottles, pyramidally ihaped, which they fill with Water
every Spring they come at.

THESE Cavalcades are much more fplendid, you may well believe,
at fuch times as the Sultan is there in perfon. And yet I can't help think-
ing the Kings of France would make a better figure than what I'm de-
fcribing, would they but order the whole Royal Family, and all the
Lords of the Court, to attend them whenever they went to the Army,
or a Progrefs : but every Country has its Cuftoms, and the European
Princes are not ufed to travel in fiich flate.

NOT long after this, the EmbafTador did me the honour to permit
me near him, when he had Audience of the Grand Vifier, who was under
his Tents four miles from the Town, on the Road to Adrianople. No-
thing furpriz'd me ib much as thefe portable Houfes ; they are prodi-
gioufly magnificent, rich, large, beautiful ; the Proportions, Defign, Or-
naments, every thing is admirable. His Excellency being in that of the
Vifier, fat down on a Stool, the Vifier on a Sopha, his Officers on the
right and left, the Janizaries in Rows along the Walls ; we, who were of

the

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 385

the Embatfador's Train, forin'd a good thick Column behind his Stool, Lett. XII-
A refpeclml Silence was obfeiv'd throughout; the Druggermans on both
fides did their Duty, and when they had explain'd their Mailer's Inten-
sions, every body departed without the lead Ceremony.

I HAD alfo the honour to accompany Monfieur the EmbafTador in
fome Vifits ; he was attended by thole of our Nation, very neatly drels'd
and well mounted. As we pals'd by the Tent of Maurocordato, his Ex-
cellency, after the ufual Civilities, was pleas'd to prefeut me to him. Mau-
rocordato is a very ingenious Man, and tho a Greek by Nation and Religion,
has been promoted to the Oillce of Ccuniellor of State: he was born at
Seioj and ftudy'd Phyfick at PaJu.t, where he took the Degrees of Doctor
in that Faculty : he has writ a Treatile of Reipiration and of the Mo-
tion of the Heart. Having much Genius, and underitanding Medecine
better than the generality of thole who pretend to it in the Seraglio, he
foon was taken noiice of. He not long after laid afide the Practice of
Phyfick, for certain Reafons, and refolv'd to make the moll of his Know-
ledge in Languages, of which he has attain'd a great Maftery. As he is
well inform'd in foreign Affairs, and no flranger to the Interefls of the
Princes of Europe, he met with a thouiand opportunities of ihewing his
Capacity, and in a few years came to be chief Interpreter to the Grand
Signior. He made himfelf fo neceflary in the lafl War with Germany,
that he was appointed Plenipotentiary at the Peace of Carloivitz ; and
that this Character might fit the better on him, he was made a Counfellor
of State. He has a good ihare of Wit, and a very promifing Phyfiogno-
my ; and has accordingly attracted the Confidence of the chief Lords of
the Court, and of the Sultan himlelf, on account of his Qualifications
in Politicks and Medicine. He feem'd to me to be one that would tem-
porize in the Practice of that Science, and own'd to me that he was an
Admirer of the Boldnefs of the European Phyficians, but that he was too
old to imitate them, and alter his own Method. I faid that in Europe we
enter'd into the true Mind of Hippocrates, and endeavour'd to lay hold
of thole precious Moments that orler'd themielves in acute Diflempers-
that the illuftrious M. Eagon, firft Phyfician to the Emperor of France, had
happily taught us to exert our utmoft Diligence in every Inilance recom-
mended by that famous Greek in iuch Cafes as required diipatch, and that
Vol. I. D d d there-

g86 ^ Voyage into tie Levant.

therefore we made ufe of Remedies unknown to him, and all the Greeks
that concern'd themfelves in Medecine ; and inftead of that formidable
Hellebore, Thymelea, and other Purgatives, that are attended with ugly-
Accidents, we ferv'd our felves of Caffia and Manna, and Preparations of
Antimony, which root out the Caufe of the moft dangerous Maladies,
without begetting frefh Symptoms. How do ye manage as to bleeding,
ask'd he ? I told him we often practis'd it, both before and after the
Evacuations I had been fpeaking of, according as the Cafe requir'd : ad-
ding, that it was a Secret we were indebted to the faid M. Fagon for, in
oi er to avoid Inflammations that fometimes fucceed ftrong Purgings. He
exprefs'd himfelf to be fatisfy'd with this Method.

FROM Medecine we pafs'd to Botany : his Head running fblely upon
Politicks, he wonder'd I came fo far only to hunt for new Plants ; and his
Surprize increased, when I aflur'd him that the Royal Garden at Paris
abounded with greater numbers : for he had never feen any but that of
Padua, where they won't be at the charge of fuch Inquiries. I added,
that in my ordinary Lectures in the Royal Garden I once a year demon-
flrated above jooo Plants in fix weeks time, exclufive of fuch as could
not then be fliewn, became not in their feafbn. Theophrafius and Diofco-
rides, I told him, would be fbrangely aftonifh'd, (were they alive again)
to behold fuch a prodigious Collection of Plants, as is to be feen ia
our Gardens ; many of which they knew nothing of. We came after-
wards to talk about the Greek Tongue ; he with a Smile faid, we were in
the wrong to pretend to teach Them how to pronounce it, and that he
mould be glad to hear my Opinion of that matter. I refer my felf in-
tirely to you, cry'd I, fince you {peak Latin fb well, and have fo carefully
read Cicero : Thar Great Man, you know, had been at Athens and
Rhodes ; and it is highly probable, he pronoune'd the Greek Tongue as it
ufed to be pronoune'd in Greece : why mould he write it Delos and De-
moftbenes, if the Greeks pronoune'd it Dilos and Demofihenis ? He did
not altogether difapprove this Reflection ; then ask'd me if I had met
with many Medals in my Voyage through the Archipelago : I anfwer'd,,
I had not, but that I was well enough pleas'd with fome Infcriptions I had
feen. After the ufual Civilities, we parted ; he made me promiie to fee
him again after my Return out ofAJia, and made a Tender of his Service

with

r~/. t.

. 7lia.3St-

i//n/^' cj u~ (Iw/inritifwyp/t' , /v/r//
<yf/t //A;- ,i /////////// /*/ ij

Defer iption of the City of Conftantinople. 387

with the utmoft Complaifance. I thank'd his Excellency for procuring Lett. XII.
me an Interview with ib great a Man : I have fince underflood, that he ^"V"v-#
had like to have loll his Life in the Alterations that happen'd on the death
of Fefoui/U Mufti, who was knock'd o' the head, dragg'd through the
Streets of Adrianople, and call into the River : Maurocordato, who was
in his Confidence, found means to conceal himfelf, and fecure moll of his
Effects. There's nothing permanent at the Ottoman Porte ; it is a Wheel
that's inceiTantly turning. The Abbot Michaelis has writ me from Con-
ftantinople, that Maurocordato was return'd to Court, as much in efleem
as ever.

1 F we made no dilcoveries in Conftantinople with relation to Antiqui-
ties, we however met with fome fcarce Plants for the Embeliihment of
the Royal Garden, unknown to all that had travell'd the Levant before
us : the Antients themfelves have made no mention of what Plants grow
about this great City, tho they flruck Medals to Bacchus and Get a with btzanti-
huge Bunches of Grapes, fome of which Medals ate in the King's Cabi-
net ; yet the Wine about Conftantinople is none of the bell, nor was ever
reckon'd otherwife. This Country is fertile in fine Plants, but Mon-
fieur the Marquifs de Ferriol having propos'd to us to take a Journey to
Trebifond, and improve the opportunity of the Departure of Numan Cu-
perlif Balhaw of Erzeron, who was going thither by the way of the
Black Sea ; we thought of nothing but preparing our lelves for that Jour-
ney, His Excellency procur'd us the Bafhaw's Protection, nor was he
himfelf difpleas'd to have fome Phyficians in his Company. But before I
quit Conftantinople, your Lordfliip will give me leave to fend you the De-
fcriptions of fome rare Plants we met with at the very Gates of that City.

BORRAGO Conftantinopolitanat Flore reflexo, deruleo, Calyce veficario,
Corol. Intl. Rei Herb. 6.

ITS Root is as big as one's little Finger, about four or five inches
in length, blackiih without, flelhy, accompany'd with Fibres of the lame
colour, which are about half a foot long, whitiih within, fill'd with a
clammy Humour. It puts forth Leaves about half a foot long, and about
four or five inches wide, picked at the ends, but at their Bafe divided into
two round Ears ; thefe Leaves are fupported on a Pedicule or Stalk leven
or eight inches long, rounded on the back, hollow'd pipe-wife on the

Ddd 2 other

3 88 A Voyage into the Levant.

other fide, whitifh, diftributing it felf into many thick Nerves, extending
to the very edges : thefe Leaves are befides pale-green, rough, and ftudded
with fmall Tumours ; they tafte flat and mucilaginous,, as do the Roots,
The Stalk is a foot high, fblid, rough, hairy, two or three lines thick,
branchy below, garnifh'd with fmall Leaves like the other, but no more
than two inches long, to one and a half broad. The Flowers grow at the
top of the Branches, they are very fleekf and of a pale-red colour : each
Flower is eight or nine lines diameter, Handing on a Stalk near half an
inch long, fwelling behind like a Bladder, whitiih, and hardly a. line
broad. This Flower, which is a sky-blue, is divided into five parts dif-
pos'd like a Wheel, a line broad, turning back, obtufe at the point : from
the middle of the Flower, which is whitiih, tho the reft is blue, arifc
five Chieves or Threds three lines long, hairy at their Bale, white likewife,
each charg'd with a blue Apex. The Cup is cut into five points, hairy j
and from its Centex arifes a Piflile or Pointal fcruare, furmounted by a purple
Thred, half an inch long : this Cup dilates into a Bladder, four or five
lines diameter, half an inch long, augulous, bridling up with Hairs a line
and a half long : the Piflile turns to a Fruit with four Seeds, each of which
bears the figure of a Viper's Head, but are no more than a line long,
ihining, bright-green at firft, afterwards blackifh.

STMPHTTVM Conftdntinopolitamm, Borraginit Folio & Facie, Flore
albo. CoroL Infl. Rei Herb-

I T S Root is half a foot long, five or fix lines thick, divided into
large Fibres, hairy, whitiih within, cover'd with a black Skin, flender,
and as it were chapr. Its Stalks are upwards of a foot in height, and
about four lines thick, pale-green, moderately hairy, fulL of Juice, as is
alfo the reft of the Plant j, hollow, unequally channel' d, attended with
Leaves diforderly placed, like thole of Burrage : the undermoft are foui
ox five inches long, two inches and a half broad, terminating in an
Ova), pointed, pale-green, of a flat, mucilaginous tafte like its Root, fuf-
tain'dby a Stalk about three lines broad at firft, guttering on one. fide
rounded on t'other : thcic Leaves are fmaii,- as they arc nearer the main
Stem ©f the Plant. From- their bofoms fpring little Bunches of other
LeaveSj, and the Branches are lubdivided- info finall- Sprig?, generally
•charg'd. with, a couple; of imail Lea^,. in the miufjt whereof are iorne

white

JALZ,

J'aa-asa.

J'jg.3fi>

fierasiuuri Oriental*- toJu/n/>//i/t/n
\Zlore t/i<ia-///te . (ZsaAo-ckli rathc&
(o/o//. If is/ -. TL't /n//> . ac .

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 389

white Flowers, rang'd like a Scorpion's Tail, and blowing fucceffively Lett. XII".
one after another : each Flower is a Pipe bending downwards, about
(even lines long ; half of this Flower which is out of the Cup, widens
it felf like a Bell, about three lines in the Opening, fhallowly cut on
the edges into five points : the other half of the Flower is inclos-'d in
the Cup, and is but a line diameter. From within the Cup, where it be-
gins to dilate, arife five Leaves, white, a line and a half long, to a quar-
ter broad at their Bafe ; and from their Junctures or Bolbms (Armpits,
the Author calls 'em) arife five Stamina of the fame colour, a line high,
with Apices : the bottom of the Pipe is perforated by the Piflile, which
is furmounted by a very fine Thred about eight lines long. The Cup is
another Pipe about four lines long, hairy, cut into five parts. The four
Embryos of the Piftile turn to ib many Seeds, form'd like a Viper's
Head : we law 'em before they were ripe.

ALL the Meadows about donftantinople are fill'd with a beautiful fort
of CraJti's-Bexky which J have call'd by the name of Geranium Orientaley
totumbinam Flore ?ndximo, Jfylwdeli Radice. CcroL Inft. Rei Herb. 20»
For it is found in feveral other places of the Levants

ITS Root is like a Clutter of French Turnips, about two inches and
a half long, flefhy, brittle, ftiptick, reddifh within, brown without, a-
bout three lines thick, tapering to a Point, delicate and hairy. The
Body of this Root, which generally lies athwart, and is ligneous when
the Plant is old, produces fbme Stalks eight or nine inches high, one
line thick, pale-green, hairy, thofe towards the bottom of the Plant
lying flat on the ground, the others rifing up ; garnifh'd with Leaves twa
and two at each Knot, exactly like thofe of the Crain's-Beak call'd
Pidgeorfs-Foot\. They have a Pedicule three inches long, fine, hairy.
The Flowers grow along the Branches, and arife out of the Bolbms of
the Leaves, which as they grow nearer the tip, diminiili-: theie Flowers
blow one after another, are fuflain'd by fome Tails ordinarily fork'd,
three or four inches long : each Flower confifts of five Leaves, djfpos'd
in form of a. Role, h.Jf an inch about, three lines broad, round, faint
purple. From their Center grows a Pifiile two lines high, furmounted
by 1 purple Tuft : the Stamina are white, very, fine to feel, and. the
Ariices yellow ill I i Cup confifts of five Leaves four lines long, picked,

3po

•nin.Hift.Nat,
lib. l<5. cip.34,

Diofc. lib. 2.
.tap. 210. &
noth. 166.

HederaDiony
'• lios. C. B.

A Voyage into the Levant.

pale-green, flreak'd, difpos'd like a Star: the Fruit was not forward
enough to be capable of a defcription.

AS we pafs'd through the Herb- Market, we bought two or three
Bunches of Berries of the yellow-fruited, Ivy ; they grow as common here
as the ordinary Ivy at Paris, and the Turks ufe them in Cauteries. The
Antients apply'd them to a nobler purpofe ; for Pliny affirms, that it was
confecrated to Bacchus, and deftin'd to crown the Poets wfth. Its Leaves,
as that Author obferves, are of a brighter green than thofe of the com-
mon Ivy. Dalechamp has not well defcribed it ; I am apt to think the
.two forts differ in nothing but the Colour of their Fruit. Might not
the Seed of the red-fruited Holm produce Stocks with yellow Fruit?
Has not the fame thing been obferv'd of the Species of Elder ? Time
will difcover, whether the Ivy we are fpeaking of is the common Ivy,
only varyM : this laft is not fcarce about Conftantinople, and the Stocks
which have rais'd the Seed from the yellow fort in the Royal Garden,
have hitherto been all of 'em like the Stocks which raife Seed from the
black : their Leaves are corner'd, and one can hardly perceive any diffe-
rence. Diofcorides feems to have treated both Species as a Variety of
the fame.

I OBSERVD the Fruit of the former to be in large Bunches two
or three inches diameter, compos'd of feveral Berries fpherical, tho fome-
what angulous, four lines thick, fomewhat flat before, and mark'd with
a Circle, whence arifes a Point half a line high. The Skin, which is
fillamot, indoles three or four Berries, each two lines and a half long,
white within ; greyifh, vein'd black, and let off with fmall rifings with-
out : they have no tafte, and are fhaped like a fmall Kidney. The Flefh
that covers thefe Berries is at firft fweetilh, afterwards it feems muci-
laginous.

PL I N T has taken all he fays of this Plant out of Theophraftus and
Diofccridest who have only given a confus'd Account of Ivy : that which
they dclcribe with white Leaves arid white Fruit, I never law ; it mufl
have been in Greece. As for the Thraciat, Ivy, mention'd by them, we
met with fome Stocks of it on the Borders of the Black Sea. No won-
i der the Bacchantes heretofore made ufe of the Ivy to adorn their Thyrfi
and Head-drefTes, fince all Thrace is covefd over with it.

Defcription of the City of Conffantinople. 391

I CAN'T hold from adding to thefe Plants a very pretty Flower, Lett. XIL
with which they garnifh'd the Dimes at our Embaffador's Table : I had r, *uxv^~'
before feen it in Portugal. Its Root confifts of two Tubercules, flefhy, talis & Lufita.
roundifh, dingy white, full of a clammy infipid Humour : the biggeft is maximo, pa.
an inch diameter, the other is as it were wither'd, both are nothing but kVem^oW
hairy Threds. Its Stalk rifes to about half a foot, two or three lines InP- Rei Herb'
thick, wrapt in a few Leaves alternately, the Sheaths whereof lie on one
another, and afterwards dilate themfelves into Leaves like thole of the
Fower-de-lys, mining, fleek, vein'd, pointed, two or three inches long
to one broad : they neareft the Flowers are not by a great deal fo big, but
much more picked. Thefe Flowers form a Bunch at the Extremity of
the Stalk : each Flower has fix Leaves, five whereof, which are upright,
make a kind of purple Coif, ftreak'd ; the three outward ones are near
half an inch long, the two inward are narrower and fhorter, but very
fharp-pointed ; the Under-leaf is biggeft of all, and is the Ornament of
the Flower ; for it gives it in a manner the figure of a Butterfly that's
upon the wing. This Leaf terminates above in a frnall Neck furmounted
by a deep purple Head, behind it ends in a Tail or Spur, whitifh, four
lines long : the reft is like a RufF about an inch broad, curl'd on the
edges, above half an inch high, white, very prettily ftreak'd with purple
Veins. The Pedicule of the Flower is four lines long, to one and a
half thick : it twifts fpirally, is pale-green, and at laft comes to be a Cap-
fula like #fmall Lantern, half a foot long to three lines broad, confifting
of ftiff" Stalks, which admit as many membranous reddifh Pannels, whole
lower Surface is charg'd with a Velvet Band, which is nothing but a Down
of very fmall Seeds, like the Sawings of Wood. The Flower is without
fmell, and appears towards the end of Afril : the whole Plant has a flat
clammy tafte.

THERE are many other fine forts of Ore his at Conftantinople, but
can't be propagated in Gardens, they delighting in nothing but the Air
of the Fields. 'Tis not (6 with the RenunculufTes, which are perpetually
multiplying, and acquiring new Beauties from the hands of the Curious, .
For fome years paft, the Turks have been careful to cultivate thefe
forts of Flowers. Cara Mufiafha, he who mifcarry'd before Viennay is
laid to have brought RenunculufTes firft in fafhion. This Vifier, to amufe

* his

392 A Voyage into the Levant.

his Mailer Mahomet IV. who extremely loved Hunting, Privacy, and
Solitude, infenfibly infpired him with a Fancy for. Flowers; and under-
flanding that the RenuncululTes were what he was moil pleas'd with, he
wrote to all the Baihaws throughout the Empire, to fend him Roots and
Seeds of the fineft forts they could lay hands on. The Baihaws of Candia,
Cyprus, Rhodes^ Aleppo, Damafcus, outdid all the others in making their
court to him. From thence came thole admirable Species of Renuncu-
lufles which are to be feen in the fine Gardens of Conjlantinople and Paris.
The SeSds which were lent to the Vifier, and thofe propagated by private
Men, produced vail Varieties. The EmbaiTadors prided themielves in (ending
them to their reipe&ive Mailers : in Europe they were re&ify'd by Culture.
M. Malaval contributed not a little thereto at Marseilles : he furniih'd France
with 'em, and France all foreign Countries. Except Pinks and July-ilowers,
we have no fine Flowers but what originally come from the Levant. A
Virtuofo of Paris, one M. Bachelier, brought from thence in 1615, the
firil Indian Cheilnut-Tree and double Anemonies. The Tuberofes, the
Hyacinths, NarciiTus, Flower-de-lyfTes, came from the fame Country;
but have been re&ify'd in our Gardens. There are Cantons in France
very proper for the multiplication of certain Flowers. They raife in
Normandy double Jonquils, and very beautiful Anemonies : the Ciimate
of Toulouze is extremely agreeable to thefe forts of Flowers. Now I am
upon the Topick of Anemonies, there goes a Story of a certain Lawyer,
to whom M. Bachelier had refus'd to communicate the Seed of ^hefe fine
Anemonies; which when he could obtain neither for Friendihip nor
Mony, nor by way of Truck, a Fancy took him to go and vifit M. Ba-
chelier, with three or four of his Friends who were in the Plot : he or-
der'd his Lacquey, who bore the Train of his Gown, to let it drop on
fome Pots that were in fiich an Alley ; in thefe Pots were the Anemonies
ke wanted, and their Seed was ready to fall. They walk'd a good while,
and talk'd about the Times : as fbon as they were come to the very Spot
of Ground, a merry Gentleman of the Company began a Story which
engaged the whole Attention of M. Bachelier ; and at the fame rime the
Lacquey, who was no Fool, let fall his Mailer's Train : the Ai emony-
Secds having a downy Coat, fluck to the Gown, which the L ibou
gather" d up again, and die Company went forward. The Virtuolo (ok

leave

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 393

leave of M. -Bacbelier, and went his ways home, where he carefully pick'd Lett. XII.
off the Seeds which had ftuck to his Robes ; he fow'd 'em the lame day, ^-*~v~^-'
and they produced very beautiful Flowers.

THE Garden of the French Palace at Conftantinople is at prefent well
kept ; it has a Terrace, from whence may be difcover'd the Plains of
JfiOj but there's no need to ftretch the View fb far : the EmbafTador
caufes to be cultivated within his own Walls the fined Orange-Trees, Re-
nunculufles, Anemonies, and all fuch Flowers as are beautiful and agree-
able in their Sealbns.

I CAN'T conclude this Letter better, than by a Relation of what
pafs'd at the Audience M. de Ferriol had of the Grand Vifier, and at that
which was prepared for him at the Grand Signior's : a Perlbn of Quality,
who had the honour to be prefent at it, communicated to me the follow-
ing Account.

THE King's Ships the Bizarre and the Affeure came to anchor in Relation of ^
the Port of Conftantinople the eleventh of December 1699. the fame day ™a}. deFer-
the EmbafTador was complimented on his happy Arrival, by the Secretaries "ftshfpdr^cee
of the leveral EmbafTadors, and by Prince Tekeli. Next day his Excellence vifier^ &c
landed, and fent his chief Interpreter to the Grand Vifier, to notify his
Arrival. Some days after, this Minifter fent to compliment him by Mau-
rocordato the Father, Counfellor of State, and chief Interpreter to the
Forte : the Audience was fix'd for the 25 th of December. That day being
come, M, de Chute auneuf Caftagnieres, the former EmbafTador, and M. de
Ferriol, departed from the French Palace half an hour after Twelve.
M. de Chateauneuf on the right, and the new EmbafTador on the left, pre-
ceded by their Houfhold, and follow'd by a dozen Gentlemen who had
waited on M. de Ferriol to Constantinople ; all of the French Nation at-
tended them. The March was perform'd very orderly to the Sea-fide,
where the two EmbafTadors, who alone rode on horfeback, alighted, and
were receiv'd by fixty Officers belonging to the Sea, who embark'd with
all the reft for Conftantinople on Caicks prepared for them. When the
EmbafTadors pafs'd by the King's Ships, they were faluted with 21 Shot
from each Ship.

THE Grand Vifier had fent two Horfes richly harnefs'd for the Em-
bafTadors, and threefcore for the Gentlemen, Officers, Guards-Marine,
VoL I. E e e and

394- A Voyage into the Levant.

and the Retinue of M. de Ferriol : this number had not been fiifficient for
fo great a Train, but his Excellence had caus'd to be brought above fifty
to the Port, and all the French Merchants had fent theirs. The Caval-
cade began with fourfcore Janizaries, whom the Grand Vifier had order'd
to the Key ; then follow'd the Domeflicks of the Embafladors, that of
3VL de Chuteaaneuf on the right, and that of M. de Ferriol on the left..
M. de FerrioPs twenty five Footmen were cloth'd in Liveries trebly laced,
rhe middle gold, the other filk. Half a dozen Janizaries belonging
to M. de Chateauneuf, and as many to M. de Ferriol, walk'd with their
Caps of Ceremony before the Druggermans. A dozen Gentlemen*
and the Chancellor of M. de Ferriol, preceded the Embafladors : thefe
Gentlemen were fb magnificently habited, that the Turks confefs'd they
never faw any thing like it, The Chiaoux Bachi, who came to receive
his Excellency, march'd immediately before the Embafladors ; and Met
fieurs de Cour and de Broglio, Captains of the King's Ships, follow'd at
the head of the Officers and Guard-Marine, who march'd two and two,
according to their Rank. The French Merchants clos'd the whole, in
the fame order. The Company was fo numerous, there was hardly room
enough for 'em in both Courts of the Vifier ; yet was every thing fb or-
derly, that when the Embafladors enter'd, the Janizaries and the ChiaouX:
made a Lane for them to pais. The twelve Gentlemen, with M. de Fer-
rioPs Chancellor, were alighted from their Horfes, to expect the Embafla-
dors at the bottom of the Stair-cafe : they follow'd into the Audience-
Chamber, as did alio the Sea-Officers. The Embafladors took their
Seats on low Stools which were placed on the Sopha, M. de Chateauneuf
on the right, and M. de Ferriol on the left: all the reft Handing.

THE Grand Vifier, with his Cap of Ceremony, came in as fbon as
the Embafladors were placed ; and fat him down at a corner of the So-
pha, which is the Place of Honour. M. de Chateauneuf fpoke firfl, tel-
ling the Vifier that the King had chofen M. de Ferriol to lucceed him :
then M. de Ferriol prefented him a Letter from his Majelty, which he put
in the hands of the chief Chancellor, who was Handing at the Vifier's
elbow,, together with the chief Officers of the Empire. M. de Ferriol
■oausM that Minifter to be told. That the King his Mailer had with
oleafure heard that his Highuefs had committed the principal Affairs of

■fe the .

Defcription of the City of Conftantinople. 095

the Empire to a Perfon of his Underftanding, and that he made no Lett, XII.
doubt but he would contribute his utmoft to maintain the Union and ^"V5*-*
Correipondence, which had been fb long fettled between the two Em-
pires. After this Compliment, they brought in fome Sweetmeats, and a
couple of Difhes of Coffee for the EmbafTadors ; and then prelented the
Sherbet and Perfume. The Vifier caus'd M. de FerrioL to be ask'd how long
'twas fince he left France : Maurocordato reported in Latin to M. de Fer-
riol what it was the Vifier ask'd him ; M. de Ferriol anfwer'd in the fame
Tongue. Then they diitributed very rich Vefts to M. de Ferriol and
M. de Chateauneuf : thofe which were given to the Officers of their Re-
tinue were worth five or fix Sequins apiece. After this Diftribution, the
EmbafTadors rofe from their Seats, and went out of the Chamber of Au-
dience : they were follow'd in an orderly manner, and when they got on
horfeback M. de Ferriol took the right, as did his Houfhold ; M. de Cha-
teauneuf put himfelf on the left with his : the reft of the Train obferv'd
the lame Order as in coming. The Streets were crouded with Specta-
tors. The EmbafTadors re-embark'd, after M. de Ferriol had thank'd the
Lieutenant of the ' Chiaoux Bachi for accompanying him with his Chiaoux. . Thechiaoax~
The EmbafTadors Canoe was faluted by the Ships as before : And when Bachi comes
they landed, they proceeded in the fame Order to their Palace, and took mm the nm-
leave of each other in the firft Court. Next day M. de Ferriol forted £fi*5£i
his Prefents to be fent on the morrow to the Grand Vifier : there was a l'"ck hf deff"

bis Lieutenant

very large and richly-ornamented Glafs ; a great Pendulum, with the *° accompany
Dial-plate mark'd in the Turkijb manner : the reft confifted of Veils, a
dozen whereof were made of the fineft Stuffs of Gold and Silver that
are wrought at Lyons, the other of the fineft Englifh Cloth.

THE 3 1 ft of December the Grand Signior caus'd the EmbafTador to be
acquainted he fhould have Audience the fifth of 'January. M. de Ferriol
diipos'd himfelf for it, and the night before fent to the Seraglio the
Prefents defign'd for the Grand Signior : they are ufually carry'd before
the EmbafTador when he is going into the Audience-Room.

THE fifth of January 1700, M.de Ferriol by break of Day fet out
from his Palace, preceded by his Houfhold, accompany'd by twelve
Gentlemen of his Retinue, and all thofe of the French Nation. At the
Strand he found the two Commandants of the King's Ships, and thirty

E c e 2 Officers

em.

gp6 A Votage into the Levant.

Officers or Guards-Marine, named by M. Bidaud to "attend him. The
EmbafTador embark'd on his Canoe, and was fbllow'd. by the whole
Company in feveral Caicks. The Chiaoux Bachi waited for his Excellent
cy on the Wharf towards Confront i#ople, with the Janizaries of the Port,
and fixty of the Grand Signior's Horfes; that defign'd for the EmbafTa-
dor was richly harnefs'd. The March began by fix Janizaries of his Ex-
cellency's Family, as many Valets de Chambre, twenty five Footmen in
Liveries, and half a dozen Eftafiers in Turkijb Habits marching before
and about his Horle : the Drogmans or Interpreters came after his Do-
mefticks, and next to them the twelve Gentlemen. The Chiaoux Bachi,
preceded by his Chiaoux, went immediately before M. de Ferriol, becaufe
when he was about to take the right hand, his Excellency bid hinv go to
the left, unlefs he would rather walk before ; which was what he chofe
to do. The EmbafTador was foUowrd by the Officers of the Marine,
walking two and two according to their Rank : all of the French Nation
did the like. They pafs'd the firft Court of the Seraglio on horfeback ;
but had notice given to diimount at the Gate of the fecond. His Excel-
lency alighting from his Horfe, was receiv'd by eight Capigis, which led
the way to the Hall of the Divan.

A T the Entrance of the fecond Court, 4000 Janizaries j who were
erouded up to the Wall on the right,, on a fudden fcamper'd away, to go
leizethe Pots of Rice which were placed for them at lbme diftance ofT.
His Excellence enter'd the Hall of the Divan at the lame time that the
Grand Vifier did the like by another Door.- After mutual Salutation he
lat him down on the place that was prepared for him, arid the Grand
Vifier on a Bench, with three Vifiers at his right hand, and the two Cadi-
lefquers at his left. Some Caufes were firft heard, and Petitions dif-
patch'd ; after which they brought Water to the EmbafTador to warn
with, as likewife to the Grand Vifier, but in different Bafbns ; that pre-
fented to his Excellency was of Silver, the other Copper^ Water was
alfo cany'd to the Vifiers, Captains of the King's Ships, and all thofe
that were to dine at the five Tables fpread in the fameHalL None but
the EmbafTador ate with the Grand Vifier, the Captains of Ships with the
Vifier c, the two Cadilefquers ate alone, and fix Petfons named by his Excel-
lence at t\\ o other Tables with the principal Officers of the Empire. The
1 five

Defcription of tie City of Conftantinople. 397

five Tables were ferv'd alike with upwards of thirty Dilhes each, which Lett.XIE.
were brought in one after another, and taken away again almoft as foon. *S~V^

T H O the Turkiflj Dilhes are very different from ours ; his Excellency,
in refpecl: to the place, neglected not to tafte of every thing : after dinner,
Water was again brought to wafh with.

MJVROCORDJTO the Father, and the Sieur Fonton chief DrugT
german to the King, ferv'd as Interpreters all dinner-time. There was a
grated Window over the Embaflador's Table, at which his Excellency
perceiv'd the Grand Signior now and then taking a look. Orders being
now brought for admitting the EmbaiTador, there was brought into the
Hall of the Divan a Looking-glafs, which his Excellency was to give his
Highnefs; the Glals was 89 inches deep to 62 wide : all the Company
were furpriz'd at it, and the Grand Signior ey'd- it through the Grate
where he ufually is during the holding of the Divans The Looking-
glais was brought to the Door of the Hall of Audience, together with
a Pendulum far exceeding that presented to the Grand Vifier, as likewife
an admirable Piece of Clock-work, which, befides the Hours and Mi-
nutes, exhibited the Motion of the Moon, the Degrees of Cold and
Heat, and the Variations of the. Seafbns. More than this, there were
twenty Vefts of very rich gold Stuff's, and a world of other Verts made
of the fined Etiglifb Cloth. The Prefent appear'd fb magnificent,, that
the Grand Vifier caus'd the EmbaiTador to be ask'd whether it was the
King's or his own : he reply'd, it was a Prefent from himfelf.

THE Grand Vifier wrote to his Highnefs, to know if they ihould in-
troduce the EmbaiTador : the Telkidgt, who carry'd the Letter, brought TeikMo,- ;s an.
back the Grand Signior's Anfwcr in writing, which having firft kifs'd and MrrieslhTuf
mov'd to his Forehead, he caus'd to be read : which done, the proper Uri *>hkh
Officers led his Excellency to a certain place of the Court, where they *ht p,i>»e vi-
diftributed threefcore and ten Veils among his Retinue ; the EmbaiTador JGr<mdt^nkr.
receiv'd him fitting on a Bench cover'd with Icarlet Cloth. Hitherto
every thing was done according to the Rules, and his Excellency could
not but be highly delighted with the Honours he had receiv'd ; but as
they were moving into the Grand Signior's Apartment, the Chiaoux
Bachi, who was galPd at the EmbalTador's refufing him the right hand in
the March, went and infoxm'd MaurocordatOy who was at his Excellency's

dbow,

A Voyage into the Levant.

elbow, that he perceiv'd the Embaflador had his Sword on, and that none
were lufter'd to enter the Grand Signior's Chamber arm'd. Maarocordato
was for conniving at it, the rather for that the EmbalTador's Sword
was cover'd with his ' Caftan : but the Chiaoux Bachi threatning to ac-
quaint the Grand Vifier, he could not avoid ipeaking to his Exceliency, and
told him, with fome reluctance apparent in his Vifage, that he could not fee
the Grand Signior with any Weapon about him, and therefore begg'd he
would lay afide his Sword, which the Chiaoux Bachi had juft now hap-
pen'd to call his eye on. The Embaflador reply'd, That in wearing a Sword
he did no more than had been praclis'd by M. de Chateauneuf-, and that the
Sword being part of a Frenchman's Habiliment, nay the chief part, he
would not relinquish it. This Dilpute was carry'd to the Grand Vifier,
who was flill in the Hall : he lent word to the Embaflador, that he mull-
not lee the Grand Signior with a Weapon about him. His Excellency
again quoted the Example of M. de Chateauneuf, and laid it did not be-
come him to behold Co great a Prince as his Highnefs, without having
on every Ornament the French Habit confifls of. The Conteft lafted a
lull hour, Maurocordato carrying the MelTages to and fro : at laft the
Grand Vifier propos'd to the Embaflador, that if he would quit his Sword
the Grand Signior would write a Letter to the King in his excule. His
Excellency anfwer'd, there' needed no Excuie,^4or he would not commit
the Fault. The Grand Vifier reply'd, he would give an Atteflation
fign'd by himfelf and all the Grandees of the Empire, by way of Aflu-
ranee that no EmbalTador whatever for the future Ihould lee the Grand
Signior with Arms about him. The Embaflador reply'd, that the Porte
might alter its Ceremoniale for time to come, that then it would be the
Affair of his Succeflbrs, and of all the other Nations ; but that they
fhould not begin with him to take from EmbalTadors the Honours they
were in polTeflion of; and that he having the honour to be the chief of
Chriftian Embafladors, if he were to give any Rules, it Ihould be to en-
large their Privileges inftead of yielding to have 'em diminilh'd. The
Grand Vifier caus'd his Excellency to be told, that if he perfifted to
keep his Sword, he mull not lee the Grand Signior, who was come fif-
teen Leagues off^ on purpole to give him Audience. The Embaflador
made anlwer, he Ihould count it a very great Misfortune ; but as s^reat

T>efcription of the City of Conitantinople. 399

a Felicity as it was to fee his Highnefs, be would not purchafe it at the Lett. XII..
price of the King his Mailer's Glory, nor by proflituting the Character he l-c?^v^>->
was honour'd with. The Grand Vifter added, that no EmbalTador ever
faw the Grand Signior with Arms about 'em. His Excellency repiy'd,
that M. de Chatenuaeuf was a Man of Honour, and that he would not
prelume to impoie on the King his Mailer ; that he was Hill in Conftmti-
nople, and might be call'd to teflify the truth ; that he was furpriz'd they
ihould pick fuch a quarrel with him, but proteiled he would foonerparr
with his Life than his Sword. Maurocordato not knowing what to do,
defir'd M.de Ferriol to take counfel of the French Officers. His Excel-
lency anfwcr'd, that in fuch things as concern'd the Glory of the King
his Mailer, he was the fole Interpreter of his Will. Maurocordato went
again to the Grand Vifier, and returning to the EmbalTador, told him he
would kindle a Fire that would not be eafily extinguifli'd, and that he.
would be the caufe of ibme great misfortune. So much the worle for the
Weakefl, reply'd M.de Ferriol; yet I fhall not relinquilh my Sword but
with my Life, the Honour of my Character being faften'd to it. Then
the Grand Vifier lent the oldefl of the Capigis-Bachis to tell the Embaf-
iador, that it was attempting an Innovation in the Ceremouiale, and that
they could allure him they never had feen any EmbalTador take Audience.
of the Grand Signior with his Sword on. M. de Ferriol reply'd, that .
M. de Cbateauneuf was at leafl as worthy to be believ'd as they.. The.
Janizary-Aga came afterwards with the principal Officers of his Corps, to
allure the EmbalTador that tho he was a General Officer of the chief."
Militia of the Empire, he never enter'd arm'd into the Grand Signior's
Chamber ; no, not the Grand Vifier himfelf, tho his Highnefs's Lieute-
nant. M. de Ferriol reply'd, that the Grand Vifier and he were Subjects, ,
and fo the Law was made for them ; but as for himfelf, having the ho-
nour to reprelent the Perlbn of a great Prince, he was not in the lame-
llate of Dependauce. The two Cadilefquers came in their turn, and after
them the Vifiers of three Horfe-Tails, and all the Officers of the Pcrte,
to try if they could prevail on the EmbalTador, but he was immovable.
The Grand Vifier, who was inform'd of all that pafs'd, fancy'd he could
by Stratagem obtain what he was not able to compafs by Argument :
He therefore fent to let the EmbalTador know it was high time for him

to-.)

aoo A Voyage into the Levant.

to go take his Audience. The Embaflador ask'd whether it fliould be
v\ ith his Sword on : they anfwer'd, yes. So on he march'd, and being
come to the door of the Grand Signior's Apartment, he turn'd his head
to look for the fifteen Perfons he had named to follow him into his High*
neis's Chamber, to pay their Obeifance according to Cuftom. To his
great fiirprize he law but fix ; the Chiaoux and the Capigis-Bachis had
ftopt the reft at the door of the great Arch leading to the Audience-
Hall. The Embaflador then began to fufpecl: they had fome defign upon
Jiim ; fo, being deterrnin'd to lofe his Life in maintenance of what he
-had faid and done, he clapt his left hand on his Sword, holding in his
light the King's Letter to the Grand Signior : two Capigis Bachis took
him under the Arm, as is the cuftom ; mean while up comes a third, of a
gigantick ftature, who {looping down, laid violent hold of the Embafla-
dor's Sword to force it from him ; but hot being able to do it, the Em-
-baflador enraged gave him fuch a Salute with his Right-hand and Knee,
that he threw him four paces off; and then call'd out to M-a:irocordatot
Is it thus you violate the Law of Nations ? After which, feeing the Ca-
pigi Bachi, whom lie had fpurn'd, making towards him again, he by main
force broke from the two other Capigis Bachis, who ftill had him by the
Arm; and then half drawing his Sword, he ask'd Maurocordato aloud,
Are ne Emmies or how ? Maurocordato feem'd perfectly aftonifh'd, and
had not a word to fay. M. de Ferricl made no doubt but things would
be carry'd to the laft extremity ; but in that moment appear'd at the
door of the Grand Signior's Apartment, the Capi-Aga or chief of the
white Eunuchs, who making a. fign with his Hand not to commit any
violence upon the Embaflador, drew near him, and faid that if he would
enter without his Sword, he fhould be welcome ; but that if he perfifted
to wear it, he might return back to his Palace. M. de Ferriol reply'd,
he neither could nor would part with his Sword, and fo went his ways,
leaving his Caftan at the door, and order'd all thofe of his Retinue to
do the like ; which they did, putting them into the hands of an Officer
of the Grand Signior's: this pafs'd without giving any Subject of Com-
plaint.

T H E Embaflador being got near the great Gate, the Grand Vifier
fent word to the Sieur Fonton to come and take back the Prefents his

.* Excel-

Defrription of the City of Conftantinople. 401

Excellency had brought :" which was accordingly done. M. de Ferriol Lett. XII.
behev'd there would be no Ceremony in his Return; but yet he found
the Grand Signior's Hories, the Chiaoux and the Janizaries, who accoin-
pany'd him to the Sea-fide, in the fame Order as had been obfei v'd in
going to the Seraglio. There were infinite Swarms of People in the
Streets and at the "Windows, every body being psrfuaded the Embaffador
had taken his Audience ; and when he arrived at the Sea fide, he put
himfelf into his Canoe, which as it pafs'd by the King's Ships was faluted
with 42 Carmorr-fhot. M. de Ferriol being return'd to his Palace, caus'd
feveral Tables to be- fpread for the King's Officers, and all of the French
Nation, whom he treated with exceeding magnificence.

IT mult nor be forgot, thitMaurocordato affected all along to hold in
hugger-mugger the Negotiation of the Sword, and therefore talk'd to
M. de Ferriol in Whiipers ; but as it was an Affair of Ufage and Juftice,
the EmbafTador continually anfwer'd aloud, to the end that the feveral
Foreigners who were prefent out of curiofity, might hear what pafs'd.

'TWAS known fome days afterwards, that the Grand Sign ior chid
the Grand' Vrfi erTor exr3ofing 'him to lb dflagreeable a Scene ; telling him»
he might have forefeen it. The laft: Action of the Grand Vifier was ge-
nerally condemn' d, for going to circumvent the EmbafTador, and take his
Sword from him by foul means : the Turks themfelves could not but cry
fliame on it. M. de FerrioPs Prefence of Mind in all his Anfwers, and
his firm Refoiution, were admired by all that were WitnefTes thereof.

IT may not. be amiJs here to obfepve to our Merchants, how advan-
tageous it is to *em, to navC at Conjlantinofle, in the Perfon of the Em-
bafTador, a natural Judge, and one not to be appeal'd from, in all Civil
and Criminal Cafes that may happen among 'em.

BY the 24th and 43d Articles -of a Treaty made May 26. 1604. be-
tween Henry the Great and Sultan Acbmet I. Emperor of the Turks, it
was ftipulated, That the EmbaiTadors and Confuls of our Nation fhould
diftribute Juftice to iuch Merchants and Tradersas were his Majefly's Sub-
jects, according to; their own Laws and Cuftoms, without the Cognizance
of any Turkijb Officer whatever. Upon which, as I have been inform'd,
in 1673 there being a Suit between the Sicur Fabre and the SiexxxsGleyfe
of Marseilles, it was determin'd by a definitive Sentence of M. de Noi»tel,
Vol.I. Fff then

I

402 / Voyage into the Levant.

then EmbafTador at the Porte : but the Sieurs Gleyfe pretending to get
this Decree revers'd in the Courts of Provence, it was on the contrary
confirm'd by an Arret of Council from above, dated Sept. 1. 167 j. in
the following Terms.

Extract cf the %egifters of the Council of State.

< Hp H E King in Council confirms the Judgments pafs'd by the Sieur
1 de Nointel, the 4th of December 1671. the 2d & 18th of July

1 1672. Orders the fame to be executed according to their Form and
' Tenour ; and in confequence, his Majefty has made void and of no
' effect the Judgment given by the Lieutenant of the Admiralty of Mar-
1 feilles the 1 2th of November lad, and every thing that follow'd there-

* upon : forbidding him to take any Cognizance of the Difpute between

* the faid Gleyfe and Fabre ; nor are the faid Gleyfe to make any further

* or other Proceedings on the faid account, upon pain of 3000 Livres
1 Forfeiture, befides Cods and Damages. Done in the King's Council of

* State, held ztBriftc the firftDay o£ September 1673. Collated. Signed
' Colbert. VtraCopia, Lauthier.'

1 am, My Lord, &c.

The End of the Firfi Volume.

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