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OURNALS OB|EUI (OMM J)

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Marine ^Biological Laboratory Library

^oods ofole, Massachusetts

cVoyages ■ of • (Exploration

Collected

^ewco/ab Ohompson {Montgomery

(1307-1966)

<Thiladelphta architect, ncphctf of
Ihomas Jiamson Montgomery (1673-19121
(MBi investigator, and ^Prtscilta Wraislin
{Montgomery U&74-1956\ MBi librarian.

Gift of their sons jiugh (Montgomery, M(D.
and Raymond <B. Montgomery — 1987.

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Copyright, 1883,
Br EMMA De LONG and HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO.

All rights reserved.

Hie Riverside Press, Cambridge:
Electrotyped and Printed by H. 0. Houghton & Co.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS.

September — December, 1880.

The Ship Afloat. — On an Even Keel. — Again Frozen in. — A
Snow-Storm. — Prepared for Winter. — Dog Food. — The Village
on Deck. — Monotony. — The Dogs' Treatment of each other. —
Chase after a Bear. — The Health of the Men, as shown by Rapid
Recovery. — Anticipations of Removal. — Pure and Impure Air. —
The Beauty of the Night. — Sensitiveness to Cold. — Fox-Tracks.

— Observations. — Treadmill of Life. — The Effect of Arctic Life
on Health and Spirits. — Sudden Appearance of the Sun. — Shocks
to the Ship. — The Dryness of the Quarters. — Sleeplessness. — A
Minstrel Entertainment Christmas Eve. — Christmas Dinner. —
Auroral Display. — The Last Day of the Year. — The Jeannette
Minstrels. — Courageous Outlook ....... 441

CHAPTER XI.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE.

January — 9 June, 1881.

The Old Year out and the New Year in. — The Solid Snow. — Im-
prisonment. — Exercise. — Sudden Changes. — Reappearance of the
Sun. — Increase of Days. — Dog Misfortunes. — Deep Soundings.

— Aneguin's House. — Washington's Birthday. — Alexey's Sick-
ness. — Bear Fight. — The Sick-List. — Sick Dogs. — Danenhow-
er's Case. — The Chinamen stray off with the Dogs. — Search for
the Lost Dogs. — The Wildness of Ice. — The Dogs on Short Ra-
tions. — Land ! — Speculations about the Island. — Mr. Chipp on
the Sick-List. — Lauterbach's Misfortune. — A Party sent to visit
the Island. — Their Outfit. — Orders. —Lead Poison. — Return
of the Party. — Report of Discoveries. — Henrietta Island. —
Jeannette Island. — Anticipation of Trouble. — Sudden Disaster . 501

iv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND.

11 — 25 June, 1881.

The Attack of the Ice on the Ship. — The Break across the Ship.

— Orders given to remove Provisions. — The Ship hegins to fill.

— The Unloading. — The Ship sinks. — The Camp on the Ice. —
Preparations for Journey. — Loading of the Sleds. — Arrangement
of Camp. — The Sick-List. — Orders for the March. — Deposit of
Records.— The Start. — The Difficulties at the Outset. — Terrible
Roads. — The Heavy Loads. — Snow and Rain. — The Cracks in
the Ice. — Ice Bridges and Ferries. — Fog. — The First Good
Day's Work. — The Daily Routine. — Papers brought to Light. —
Doubts as to Locality. — Reconnaissance 571

CHAPTER XIII.

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN.

26 June — 14 July, 1881.

Five Ice Bridges in One Day. — The Heat of the Sun. — Discourag-
ing Progress. — The Reticence of the Captain. — Cheerfulness of
the Men. — Beautiful Cloud Formations. — Vexatious Openings. —
Paleocrystic Sea. — Daily Fog. — Wild Geese. — The Water. —
Wet Beds. — Uncomfortable Dinners. — Hard Ice. — The Glorious
Fourth. — Change in Character of Ice. — A Gale. — Half a Mile
in Six Hours. — The Repeated Journeys. — Impossibility of get-
ting Position. — Needle Ice. — Cry of Land. — A Lost Bear. —
Land and Water. — The Hard Work of the March. — Ferrying. —
No Thoroughfare. — Condition of the Dogs. — Damage to Walk-
ing Gear. — Nearer Sight of Island. — Seal. — Mr. Dunbar goes
to look for the Land 609

CHAPTER XIV.

BENNETT ISLAND.

16 July — 5 August, 1881.

Nearer View of the Island. — A Narrow Escape from Drowning. —
Open Water in Various Directions. — Crimson Snow. — Perplex-
ing Views of the Island. — Land or Water ? — Making for the

CONTENTS. V

Land. — Impassable Roads. — Needle Ice. — Walrus. — Rotten Ice.
— Confusion of the Moving Ice. — Clear Weather and New Views. —
Recourse to Boats. — Fearful Work. — The Constant Change of the
Ice. — Drifting Away from the Island. — How Relief is called. —
Sudden Discovery of a Cliff. — A Rush for the Island. — A Terrible
Landing. — Taking Possession of Bennett Island. — Plan of Opera-
tion. — Assignment of Work. — Geological Foundation of the
Island. — Tidal Observations. — Reconnoissance by Mr. Dunbar. —
Coal on the Island. — Mr. Chipp sent on an Expedition. — -Return
of Mr. Dunbar. — His Report. — Disagreeable Weather. — Return
of Mr. Chipp. — Record made for Deposit. — The Cold Storm. —
Shooting of Dogs 648

CHAPTER XV.

IN THE BOATS.

6 — 30 August, 1881.

Leaving Bennett Island. — The Island Disappearing from Sight. —
Loading the Boats. — Orders to Mr. Melville. — Reduction of Lug-
gage.— Loss of Dogs. — Two only remain. — Following Leads. —
Inventory of Provisions. — Snow-Storm. — Camping on the Ice. —
Appearance of Land. — Shut in. — The Last Ration of Bread. — A
Good Run. — Fog. — Preparations for Open Water. — Distribution
of Effects. — Instructions to Mr. Cbipp and Mr. Melville. — Weari-
some Waiting. — Dependence on Tobacco. — Between Two Islands.
— The Ice Breaking Up. — Shoal Water. — Land ....

CHAPTER XVI.

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS.

31 August— 11 September, 1881.

Deer Tracks. — A Deserted Hut. — Coasting along the Island. —
Rough Water. — Across the Strait. — Separation of the Boats. —
Terrible Anxiety. — Reappearance of the Second Cutter. — Letter
to Mr. Chipp. — The Hardest Morning's Work. — The Sand Bank.
— Landing on Kotelnoi. — A Retrospect. — Signs of Life on the
Island. — Hut. — Explorations. — Candle-Snuffer Hills. — Under
Way again. — Semenovski Idand. — Deer and Ptarmigan. — Ele-
phant's Tusk. — Record for Deposit 725

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE LENA DELTA.

12 — 30 September, 1881.

Under Way again. — The Boats separate. — Heavy Gale. — Shoal
Water. — Wading Ashore. — The Prospect. — Preparations for
March. — Copy of Record. — The Start. — Terribly Slow Prog-
ress. — The Last Can of Pemmican. — Divine Help. — Straggling.

— Ericksen Breaking Down. — A River. — Huts. — Proposals to
send for Relief. — Well done, Alexey ! — A Respite. — A New
Start. — Trying to Raft. — Perplexities of the Country. — Fox-
Traps. — Enough left for Three Meals only. — Unfaltering Trust.

— The River. — Saved again. — Shooting the Deer. — Ericksen's
Condition. — A Moccasin Print. — Drowsiness. — In the Fork of a
River. — Doubts as to Position. — Flying a Black Flag. — Am-
putation of Ericksen's Foot. — Failure of Game .... 749

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE FATAL MONTH.

October, 1881.

The Hundred and Eleventh Day. — Crossing the River. — Halting
on a Bluff. — Cold Nights. — Weakness. — A Man's Track Seen. —
Huts in the Distance. — Uncertainty. — Disappointment. — The
Hut becomes a Mound. — Camping in the Face of the Bluff. —
The Dog Killed. — A Fearful Night. — Under Cover of a Hut.—
Extremity of the Party. — Speculations as to Position. — Death of
Ericksen. — Burial. — Final Start without Food save Alcohol. —
Three Miles More. — The Effect of Alcohol. — Nindemann and
Noros Sent Ahead for Relief. — A Spoonful of Glycerine for Sup-
per. — Arctic Willow. — Staggering Forward. — Alexey Dies. —
Death of Kaack and Lee. — No Foot Gear. — Iversen Dead. — The
Last Recorded Deaths 781

CHAPTER XIX.

NINDEMANN AND NOROS.

9 October — 2 November, 1881.

Captain De Long's Instructions. — They start on their Forced March
to the Southward. — They shoot a Ptarmigan and miss Deer. — i
Arctic Willow Tea and Boot-soles. — Camping in the Snow. — Loss

CONTENTS. Vli

of Alcohol. — A Hut. — Refuge from the Storm. — Struggling
against the Wind. — Crossing Streams. — Another Hut, and a
Burial Place. — Camping in a Crevice. — Reduced to Seal-skin
from Pantaloons. — Making for the Mountains. — Miserable Shelter.

— A Deserted Settlement. — A Needed Refuge. — Discovered by a
Native. — Carried to a Camp. — Their Journey Southward. —
Impossibility of Communication. — Ku Mark Surka. — Bulun. —
The Telegraphic Message. — The Appearance of Chief-Engineer
Melville 801

CHAPTER XX.

' THE FORTUNES OF THE WHALEBOAT PARTY.

12 September — 2 November, 1881.

The Separation in the Gale. — Heaving to. — The Storm. — Standing
in toward the Coast. — The Mouth of a Broad River. — A Landing.

— Up the River. — Discovery of Natives. — Cape Borkhia. — Pi-
loted by the Starosti. — Arrhu. — Geeomovialocke. — Attempts to
reach Bulun. — Condition of the Men. — Dispatches. — Kusmah. —
Kusmah sets out for Bulun. — Lieutenant Danenhower attempts
to reach Barkin. — Anxiety at Kusmah's Delay. — Return of
Kusmah. — Intelligence of Nindemann and Noros. — Mr. Melville
sets out for Bulun 825

CHAPTER XXI.

THE FIRST SEARCH.

3 — 27 November, 1881.

Bartlett arrives at Bulun with Dispatches from Geeomovialocke. —
Mr. Melville goes North to Buralak. — Meets the Whaleboat Party.

— Sends them South to Bulun and Yakutsk. — Proceeds in the
Track of Nindemann and Noros. — At Bulcour. — The Two Crosses.

— Mat Vai. — Kas Karta. — North Bulun. — Is shown Records left
by Captain De Long. — To Balloch. — Finds the Cache made when
the First Cutter Landed. — Secures the Deposit. — Returns to North
Bulun. — To Osoktok. — To Sister Ganach. — Loses the Trail. —
His Perilous Condition. — Sets out to return to Bulun. — A Severe
Journey. — Rejoins the Party at Bulun. — Proceeds with them to
Yakutsk. — Remains at Yakutsk with Nindemann and Bartlett. —
Lieutenant Danenhower proceeds to Irkutsk. — Details of Men to
assist in Spring Search. — Lieutenant Danenhower returns to
America 835

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXII.

THE FINAL SEARCH.

Mr. Melville makes Preparations at Yakutsk. — Russian Assistance.
— Rendezvous at Bulun. — Mr. Melville at Geeomovialocke. —
Depots Established at Kas Karta and Mat Vai. — The Explorations
from these Points. — The Discovery of the Bodies. — The Removal
to Mat Vai. — The Entombment. — The Search for Lieutenant
Chipp's Party. — The Three Search Parties. — Nindemann's Jour-
ney.— Bartlett's Journey. — Mr. Melville's Journey. — Meeting at
Geeomovialoeke. — Mr. Jackson and Noros. — The Journey to
Yakutsk. — Lieutenant Berry and Ensign Hunt. — The Return
Home. — Lieutenant Harber's Search. — The Alliance . . .848

CHAPTER XXIII.

CONCLUSION.

The Court of Inquiry. — The Points of Instruction. — The Finding
of the Court. — The Voyage of the Jeannette and its Word to the
Reader 863

APPENDIX A.

Translation of the Opinion of M. Wilfrid de Fonvielle, Aeronaut, as
to the Best Manner of preparing Balloons for Use in the Polar
Regions 871

APPENDIX B.

Shipping Articles for the Naval Service for Persons enlisting on Board
of the Arctic Steamer Jeannette 873

APPENDIX C.

Muster Roll of Officers and Men on Board the Arctic Steamer Jean-
nette at Date of Sailing from San Francisco for the Arctic Ocean,
July 8, 1879 875

APPENDIX D.

Officers' Bill of Fare. — Crew's Bill of Fare 876

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX E.

Extracts from a Memorandum by Dr. Ambler on Ice formed by Sea
Water

APPENDIX F.

Memoranda of Design for Construction and Fitting of a Vessel for Arc-
tic Exploration, by George W. Melville, Chief Engineer, U. S. N. . 880

APPENDIX G.
Some Remarks of Dr. Ambler on Snow Crystals, etc 887

APPENDIX H.
Tide Measurements made at Bennett Island 889

APPENDIX I.

Report of the Court of Inquiry convened at the Navy .Department,
Washington, D. C, by Virtue of an Order signed by the Honorable
William E. Chandler, Secretary of the Navy, to investigate the Cir-
cumstances of the Loss of the Exploring Steamer Jeannette . . 892

INDEX 903

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME II.

TINTED LITHOGRAPH.

Cairn Tomb, Monument Hill, Lena Delta. From a Drawing by
A. Larsen Frontispiece.

ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD.
PLATES.

PAGE

The Sinking of the Jeannette. From a Design by M. J. Burns.

Engraved by George T. Andrew ...... . 575

Dragging the Boats over the Ice. From a Design by M. J.

Burns. Engraved by George T. Andrew 629

Landing on Bennett Island. From a Design by M. J. Burns.

Engraved by George T. Andrew 677

The Separation of the Boats in the Gale. From a Design by

M. J. Burns. Engraved by George T. Andrew 751

Wading Ashore. From a Design by M. J. Burns. Engraved by

George T. Andrew 759

Nindemann and Noros IN Search of Help. From a Design by

M. J. Burns. Engraved by George T. Andrew .... 793

Finding the Bodies of Captain De Long and his Companions.

From a Design by Captain Grdnbeck. Engraved by George T.

Andrew 857

VIGNETTES.

The Kittiwake 500

Jeannette Island 550

Henrietta Island 551

The Loon 647

Bennett Island as seen in the Distance, July 19 . . . 650

Travelling over Ice-Hummocks 656

Bennett Island, discovered by Captain De Long and party . 665

Xll

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

Hut on Kotelnoi Island 739

Head of a Siberian Reindeer 780

Captain De Long's Note-Books and Map 800

Portrait of Nindemann. With Autograph 805

Portrait of Noros. With Autograph 814

Siberian Exile Huts 836

Melville's Depot of Supplies and Station at Mat Vai, during

Spring Search 849

Monument Hill, Lena Delta 869

MAPS, CHARTS, AND DIAGRAMS.

Sawing the Ice under the Forefoot . ..... 442

Sail Plan of the Jeannette 510

Spar Deck, Berth Deck, and Hold Plan of the Jeannette .511
Drifting by Jeannette and Henrietta Islands . . . 565

Position of the Ship before the Final Crush .... 573

Plan of the Camp on the Ice 582

Situation Relative to Bennett Island 669

The Jeannette's Boats 693

What I thought I was doing, and what I was doing . . 735
Map Showing the Course of the Jeannette Party after

Leaving the Ship . 744

Fac-simile of last two Pages of Captain De Long's Journal . 798

Facsimile of Captain De Long's Map 824

Map of the Lena Delta 825

Map of the Lena Delta, showing the Routes taken after

Landing, and of the Search Parties 840

Plan of the Last Camp, showing the Position in which the

Bodies were found 854

Plans of a Vessel Designed for Arctic Exploration . . 884

CHAPTER X.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS.

September — December, 1880.

The Ship Afloat. — On an Even Keel. — Again Frozen In. — A
Snow-Storm. — Prepared for Winter. — Dog Food. — The Village
on Deck. — Monotony. — The Dogs' Treatment of each other. —
Chase after a Bear. — The Health of the Men, as shown by Rapid
Recovery. — Anticipations of Removal. — Pure and Impure Air. —
The Beauty of the Night. — Sensitiveness to Cold. — Fox-Tracks.
— Observations. — Treadmill of Life. — The Effect of Arctic Life
on Health and Spirits. — Sudden Appearance of the Sun. — Shocks
to the Ship. — The Dryness of the Quarters. — Sleeplessness. — A
Minstrel Entertainment Christmas Eve. — Christmas Dinner. —
Auroral Display. — The Last Day of the Year. — The Jeanuette
Minstrels. — Courageous Outlook.

September 1st, Wednesday. — At last we are on an
even keel ! This morning at 9.35 the ship suddenly
righted, and moved astern about two feet. It was done
very quietly and without shock, except to a dog who
was on the gang-plank, and was suddenly tumbled, to
his surprise, on to the ice below. Thin ice had formed
around our free part to the thickness of nearly an inch,
and the cracking and breaking of this film(?) was the
only accompaniment to our movement. One or two
large chunks of ice rose to the surface on the port side,
and then all was still.

By previous orders, at the first movement Sweetman
ran down in the fore peak and closed the opening in the
extra bulkhead built last January. We feared that on

442

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXXETTE.

taking the water again our leak might largely increase,
but we found for the time no difference. The water-
level on the ship was at the height of eight feet four
inches on the stem, and thirteen feet five and three
fourths inches on the rudder-post. Believing that the
ship was fairly afloat (her stem being sixteen inches from
the groove in which it had been resting), we carried an
ice-claw to the floe astern, placing it on our port quar-
ter, and, attaching a hawser, tried heaving with the cap-
stan. To our surprise, beyond swinging her bow a little
to starboard, perhaps a point, the ship was immovable.
Thinking the ice on either bow was holding her, we
took the ice-claw in a line right astern, and hove again
until we parted the hawser. Then we went to examin-
ing the ice around her bows. The groove in which her
stem had rested was in plain sight, and a crack in that
floe extended right ahead. Right against the bows on
either side there was water, but on reaching clown a
measuring rod under the starboard cat-head Chipp found
it strike on ice at a depth of seven feet four inches. Ev-
idently, then, her keel and forefoot were yet held in a
cradle. Desiring to get a little
away from the heavy floe which
had damaged us last winter, a
larger hawser was got out right
astern and hove on, but without
effect. The ice-saw, worked by a
rope from the fore yard, was then
brought into play, and put down
a hole which we found in the cra-
dle - piece, which, with its other
part eleven feet in thickness, we

Af-

commenced to saw through

Sawing the Ice Under the Forefoot. ter we nac| sawn f0r about five Or

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 443

six feet, dinner time came and we stopped. A careful
watch had been kept of the leak, and it was now found
that more water was coming in than formerly. I was
anxious naturally to get the ship afloat properly, but of
course I did not want to do so at the cost of materially
increasing the leak while there was no chance to navi-
gate her. Upon reflection, I concluded to leave well
enough (or bad enough) alone, and accordingly all saw-
ing and hauling was suspended. I have some fear that
the broken stem or sprung garboards, whichever is the
damage, may be firmly held in the ice, and that all our
hauling will only tend to open the rent still more widely
and leave us with a filling ship.

From noon to eight p. m. 1,044 strokes were required
at the quarter deck pump to keep her free, or about
3,200 strokes per day. On the 11th August 1,295
strokes kept her free, and before that, and subsequent
to July 15, 240 strokes per diem kept her free. I have
no desire to go back to steam-pumping again, and God
forbid that it should again be a question of main boiler
and Sewell pump. With the emergency of a second
winter in the pack staring us in the face, we cannot be
too saving of our fifty-three tons of coal. An equal
weight in diamonds would not tempt me to exchange.

The increased comfort of being on an even keel is
very great. No longer is moving about awkward and
inconvenient ; our plates and cups are not now tempt-
ing their contents to slide away over the table-cloth,
and we do not have to mount high in the air to get on
board ship from the ice. The ship looks now some-
thing like a ship. Standing upright, with her nose well
up, she looks like a horse eager for a start. But, poor
lady ! she has no chance to clo so yet. All the steam-
power of all the engines and boilers, and all the

444 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

strength of all the ships in the world, if combined in
her, would not be able to get her to the open sea just
now.

At eight p. m. the water-level stood at 8 feet 101
inches on the stem, and 13 feet 41 inches on the rudder-
post, showing a settling forward, of 6! inches, and a
coming up aft of li inches, due probably to the effect
of the hauling.

September Id, Thursday. — A cheerless and gloomy
day. The usual fog in the forenoon, and in the after-
noon until midnight an almost steady fall of very light
snow. In one day we seem to have jumped into win-
ter. All our lakes and rivulets are covered with ice
an inch in thickness, and that in turn being hidden by
snow, the general view is as cold and cheerless as pos-
sible. While we had such mild temperatures, and the
ice was in a soft and loose condition, how anxiously we
hoped for a gale of wind to break upon us to give
everything a good shaking up and, perhaps, release us
from our fetters. But now that everything is begin-
ning to freeze fast again our chances of liberation seem
infinitesimally small. However, never say die ! some-
thing may be done in the month of September after
all. Everything is for the best.

A calculation of the work done by our quarter deck
bilge - pump, running 3,200 strokes per diem, gives
2,741.76 gallons of water (or, 114.24 per hour) as the
extent of the leak at present.

Mr. Collins on returning from the lead, about two
miles ahead of the ship, reports that it is about one
hundred yards in width.

For a clay or two there have been indications of land
to the northeast, clouds hang steadily there as over
mountain peaks, and such birds as we have noticed

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 445

moving south have come from that direction. To-day
numerous small flocks of phalaropes (perhaps one hun-
dred all told) winged their way to southwest from
northeast.

September 3d, Friday. — Observations to-clay ob-
tained place the ship in latitude N. 73° 52', longitude W.
176° 51', showing a drift since September 1st of six and
eight tenths miles to N. 37° W.

September 5th, Sunday. — One year in the ice ! and
we are only one hundred and fifty miles to the north-
ward and westward of where Ave entered it. If a time
ever comes when I can sit down quietly, free from the
mental strain I am now undergoing, I dare say I shall
be able to describe in some coherent style my thoughts
and feelings ; but at this moment I have neither power
nor inclination to mention them at any length. Anx-
iety, disappointment, difficulties, troubles, are all so in-
separably mixed that I am unable to select any one for
a beginning. Articles of War, muster, inspection, and
church as usual for the first Sunday in the month.
Our windmill is brought into use again, as we have a
wind strong; enough to run it.

September Qth, Monday. — We have been treated to
a spell of refreshingly low temperature, maximum 27°,
minimum 17°. This, I suppose, may be termed our
Indian summer ! And if so what is an Indian winter ?
Everything is frozen as hard as a flint, and the little
streams and ponds over which I used to scull or row
the dingy are now covered with ice almost strong
enough to bear my weight. If this continues we shall
have to commence fires again on the berth deck and
in the cabin, for it is but cold comfort surveying an
unlighted stove.

Observations obtained to-day show a drift since the

446 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

3d of twelve and one quarter miles to S. 28° W. I
suppose we may now say goocl-by to the Pole or the
Northwest Passage. With us it is now another winter in
the pack or a failure. If we get the ship in open water
again, it is a question of our ability to keep her afloat.

Our pumping to-day is done by hand at the quarter
deck bilge-pumps, both of which are kept going to pre-
vent their freezing. Our deck-house progresses towards
completion in its new position, and already affords a
shelter to our men while engaged in thrumming a sail
ready to put under our bows, if we ever get afloat
again.

At ten p. m. the effect of the changed wind was heard
in the motion of the young ice to southwest, which split
and cracked with the old familiar noise as the heavy
ice got under way. Mr. Collins, on coming in from the
lead to the northeast, reported the ice in motion about
eight hundred yards from the ship. Our trouble may
commence earlier this year than last, therefore.

September 7th, Tuesday. — Another day of refresh-
ingly low temperature, maximum 27°, minimum 16° ;
it is enough to make one heart-sick. This is worse
than Weyprecht and Payer, for before a second winter
stared them in the face they had a newly-discovered
land in sight,' had landed on it, and looked forward to
its exploration in the ensuing spring. We have seen
nothing, done nothing, and, so far as human judgment
can foretell or the human vision foresee, we shall see
nothing, do nothing but battle another winter with
the pack. If the coming winter's temperature may
be judged by that of the early fall, we are in for some
hard experience. However, never say die ! Who can
tell what Providence has in store for us ? Dark as our
future seems to be, the light may be getting ready to
shine through.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 447

The work on our deck-house being so far advanced
that we were ready to shut in the after end, the steam-
cutter was hoisted out and hung up at the port cutter's
davits, the cutter going to the dingy davits, and the
metallic clingy to the ice. The sail for the forefoot is
finished to-day, and is now thrummed and ready for
use. Fires were started on the berth deck and in the
cabin this afternoon, the low temperature inducing me
to add thus to our general comfort.

September 8th, Wednesday. — We seem to have
reached the bottom of our low temperature for the
present. At six a. m. the thermometer ceased going
down, and at midnight we had the comfortable figure
of 25.7°.

All the ponds are covered long since with ice, and
one can walk all around our neighborhood without get-
ting his feet wet. I had a piece cut out and measured
to-day, and it was found to be three inches thick. This
is formed since the low temperature of the evening of
August 30th.

September § tli i Thursday. — It seems we are to have
a spell in the cold snap, for to-day we have had an agree-
able change in the temperature. The weather is, how-
ever, dull and gloomy, no sun appearing long enough
for me to obtain observations.

Ice three fourths of an inch in thickness formed since
nine A. m. yesterday over the water which was left when
the three-inch block was cut out.

We have again arrived at the end of sufficiently pure
ice for cooking and drinking, and as I was regretfully
obliged to order the resumption of distilling, the steam-
cutter's boiler was again called into use. A large patch
of crimson snow was found about one half mile ahead
of the ship, and a handkerchiefful brought in by Mr,

448 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Dunbar. I have had a quantity of it put away in a
jar for carrying to the United States. Our liquid com-
passes seem very sensitive to cold weather. This morn-
ing the spirit was found oozing out around the edges of
the glass covers. I had the compasses removed from
the binnacles and stowed below.

September 12th, Sunday. — One more week is added
to the long and weary round of weeks which records our
imprisonment and drift, and we seem as far from libera-
tion as ever. There is nothing I know of more wearing
than waiting, — waiting without a chance of relief visi-
ble. Are we to be blamed if we find a year of such a
life monotonous ? Or is it to be wondered at that we
do not welcome the beginning of a second year of the
same thing ? I say a second year, but not a last year ;
for as far as we can see ahead and judge of the future
by the past, there is no good reason for this condition
of things to change this side of eternity. We may pass
away and our ship may be among the things that were,
but I calmly believe this icy waste will go on surging
to and fro until the last trump blows. But it is a long
lane that has no turning, and our troubles may be ap-
proaching a relief. I hope they are, for I am becoming
weary of the load of cares and anxieties I have so long
carried about.

At ten a. m. I inspected the ship, and after this read
divine service in the cabin, with Chipp, Melville, Dun-
bar, and the doctor as my congregation. Although
there is no fear of my taking up a collection, a larger
attendance is rare.

September \Wi, Monday. — The new week seems to
promise but little. Observations to-day show a drift
since the 10th of six and eight tenths miles E. Consid-
ering the almost steady S. W. or N. W. winds which we

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 449

have had, I am surprised to find we have made so little
easting. x

September litJi, Tuesday. — The arrival and depar-
ture of one more day to record, and that is about all.

At eight p. m. the moon was rising on the southern
horizon, and very much distorted by refraction. It
seemed of immense size four days before full moon, and
reminded one of a large city burning. Auroral flashes
shot up from the eastern horizon toward the zenith,
and, with the many stars visible, made a beautiful scene.
At midnight, on going out to make the meteorological
observation, I was considerably startled. South south-
east of the ship, right ahead, the sky at the horizon was
lighted up as by a coming daylight, the clear bright light
being very marked. I knew, of course, it must be an
auroral display, but while I looked a brilliant green, and
then a brilliant red color spread all over it, very much as
different colored lights are made to shine on a stage in
spectacular pieces. As a scenic effect it was grand in-
deed. The changes were vivid and instantaneous, and
had we been in open water I should have declared that
the occurrence was due to signal lights from a ship.
But alas ! open water, if any such thing exists, must be
many miles to the southward of us. I say "If any such
thing exists," because I should not be very much sur-
prised if the ocean had frozen over during the summer
down to the equator.

Sweetman and Nindemann having finished the deck-
house commenced to-day the erection of an inclosing
porch around the cook-house, while the crew nailed
canvas on the outside of the deck-house and the bows.

September 15th, Wednesday. — A regular stormy day
of wind and snow. Until about five p. m. such clouds
of snow were whirled through the air that our sur-

29

450 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

roundiiigs at a distance of one hundred feet were as
invisible as if they were in another world. Drifts into
which one might flounder to his waist were as common
as water holes used to be a month ago ; and between
them bare places of ice, worn as smooth as glass by the
friction of the snow blast, caused heels to fly up without
warning or avoidance. Looking to windward was a
sheer impossibility. Even the clogs, usually so indiffer-
ent to weather, were cowed, and after vainly seeking
for a shelter under the ship's side, or to leeward of a
barrel, fairly gave it up, and lay down in disgust to be
snowed in. Mounds here and there showed for a time
where a dog was buried, but after a while these became
so indistinguishable that it wras only when somebody fell
into or over them, and caused a smothered howl from
the dog beneath, that the dog's presence was betrayed.
All fighting was suspended by unanimous consent. We
human beings remained carefully housed. We stood
the cold until noon, when I directed fires to be lighted
on the berth deck and in the cabin, and, seeing no let
up in the severity of the temperature, continued them
during the night. Temperature, maximum, 19.5° ;
minimum, 9.5°. We are having an early start to our
cold weather this year, and though we are sufficiently
seasoned to go without fire as long as the air outside
remains above 20°, we are a little chilly when it gets
below it. 40° seems to be the turning point inside the
cabin. At 40° or over we are comfortable, but at 39°
we commence to feel chilly. While the open, air is 20°
or so, we seem to generate heat enough to keep the
cabin at 40° by our personal radiation, and at 43° or so,
and even 46°, when the lamps are lighted at night. But
otherwise we fall short of the requirements of comfort.
No carpenter work being possible, we employ the men

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 451

in breaking out the forward store-room, getting all our
peinmican up ready for an emergency, and then re-
stowing.

At nine p. m. a very beautiful lunar halo formed, and
remained at midnight, the segments of a circle having
prismatic colors. At 9.30 an auroral curtain arch south
of zenith and 30° in altitude, extending from southeast
to northwest, was visible, and at eleven it had crossed
the zenith and stood at 20° above the northern horizon.

September 11th, Friday. — Latitude N. 72° 30' 12",
longitude W. 176° 30' 15", showing a drift since yester-
day S. 22° E. six and three fourths miles, — a somewhat
curious result, for our gale had about blown itself out
without any marked change occurring in our position,
and here we go away to the southward at a great rate.
Occasional fog indicating ice openings, soon turning
into snow.

September ISth, Saturday. — A cheerful little fall of
temperature to 3.7° makes this day exceptionally dis-
agreeable, and seems to make assurance doubly sure
that we are frozen in for another winter. Not a vestige
is left of the many little ponds and streams which such
a short time ago might be seen in our neighborhood ;
on the contrary, what with snow-drifts, and the freezing
over of all water, one could readily believe that water
had never been here at all. The .ship looks as if she
had been here always, and, what is worse, intended to
remain. Excellent observations to-clay show a drift
since yesterday of two miles to N. 35° W. And so it
goes, — one day southeast, and the next day northwest
zigzag, zigzag. The lead two miles ahead of the ship
(southeast by south) is opening again, and, being visited
by our hunting parties, two seals are brought in.

September IWi, Sunday. — The arrival of another

452 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Sunday brings around another inspection. The deck-
house being finished, except its entering porch, and the
wing porches to the galley-house being completed, I am
able to form some idea of how our coming winter is
prepared for. I am convinced that the changed deck-
house is an improvement. The berth deck is, of course,
somewhat darker, but it is also much dryer, and I think
will remain so. This morning's inspection reveals the
fact that the two rooms opening off the berth deck
(and occupied on the starboard side by Lee and Bart-
lett, on the port side by Cole and Sweetman) are acting
as the condensing chambers for the whole deck. This
is bad ; but Chipp suggests placing a stove on the old
galley platform, and by heating that portion of the
ship prevent the condensation, and force it to the cold
roof of the deck-house above. This involves moving
Alexey's berth, but as his trouble generally consists in
finding his sleeping-place too warm, he will be improved
by building his berth up in the deck-house. I therefore
approve of the stove being placed there, and during
the coming week the change will be made. I think we
might burn all the coal in the ship this winter with-
out making the house as comfortable as the berth deck
(because the heat would melt the frost and cause it to
drip without drying it and making it disappear), while
with a fire on the berth deck, and another on the old
galley platform, a steady heat will be maintained, and
its ascending columns will carry up the moisture to the
roof of the deck-house, where it will be condensed and
will remain. By this means the two decks should be
kept dry : for although the temperature of the deck-
house will be comparatively comfortable, it will not be
high enough to cause dripping ; and the berth deck,
being uniformly warm, will present no cold surface (ex-

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 453

cept the ship's side) for condensation. Should we get
a large enough snow-fall, heavy banking may make a
warm jacket for the ship outside. The galley-house,
being protected on its sides by two porches, will be
padded on its forward end with the felt used in the
deck-house last Avinter. The after end, being next the
galley, will not require any protection, I imagine, but
should it be found necessary will be supplied.

And so we prepare for our second winter in the pack.
Our sleds are yet to be arranged, provisions piled on
deck ready for an emergency, our worthless clogs got
rid of to save dog food, and our wardrobe generally
overhauled and made ready.

This item of dog food is a serious consideration.
Thus far we have got along well enough with the help
of a few walruses, seals, bears, etc. Fortunately our
dogs are not fastidious, and are willing to eat anything,
and failing that even, to go without. For the emer-
gency of travel, we have saved forty days' dried fish,
and of course cannot use this otherwise. To-day we
(men and dogs) have eaten our last piece of bear, and
we have only about half a dozen seals in the larder as
our stock of fresh meat. Bears have been scarce, and
but few seals are brought in ; not many are seen, and
of those shot, a large proportion still sink. However,
we have not been out of fresh meat as yet, and have
no reason to complain.

The thing that gives me more concern and anxiety
in connection with our winter preparations is the readi-
ness for a sudden abandonment of the ship in case of
disaster. This is exceedingly difficult to arrange for.
To place sleds and boats, or sleds only, on the ice, and
pack them ready for use, involves the danger of losing
them should a sudden opening occur. If we keep the

454 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

sleds packed on board ship, the quick debarking of
such heavy weights would be difficult, if not impossible,
without damaging them seriously. If we do neither,
but have everything handy for heaving over the side,
and pack afterwards, our emergency may be so sudden
that we shall not have time to save anything. In any
case the impossibility of being ready for anything and
everything is settled. No matter which plan might be
adopted, our emergency, if it came, might make me
wish I had adopted another. So as feasible a plan as
any will be to have sleds, boats, provisions, dog harness,
sleeping-bags, knapsacks, etc., as accessible as possible.
Stick to the ship as long as she will stick to us, and
when she is ready to leave us try to be a little readier
to leave her. I dislike to dwell on the idea of aban-
donment, and even dislike preparations for such a step.
We have come through so much, it gives me hope of
our surviving more. As long as enough of the ship
remains to shelter us it is preferable to camping on ice ;
and I can conceive of no greater " forlorn hope " than
an attempt to reach Siberia (say two hundred and forty
miles) over the ice that surrounds us, and with a win-
ter's cold sapping one's life at every step. Of course,
if we were to lose our ship I would make the effort to
get there, but the chances of success would be ex-
tremely problematical. Divine service was performed
after inspection.

Weather generally clear and pleasant from nine A. M.
to three p. m., cloudy and dull the remainder. In the
early morning light snow, and after three p. m. fog —
resulting from a reopening of the old lead which made
our floe an island. I am very much afraid that our ex-
penditure of fuel this winter will be much greater than
last winter. We are coining to much fine dusty stuff,

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 455

a Nanaimo coal, which burns like powder, and requires
a large quantity to generate heat- Last winter we had
much anthracite coal in our daily issue, and that lasted
longer and did better work.

September 20th, Monday. ■ — The cold weather we
have been experiencing warns us that we can no longer
run the quarter deck bilge-pump without incurring the
risk of freezing and bursting it. Accordingly, this af-
ternoon we cease to use it, and fall back upon the for-
ward spar deck bilge-pump, which, being covered by the
deck-house, is protected from freezing. With the stove
on the galley platform, as proposed, I hope to keep it
from freezing all winter. To bring this pump into
play the flood-gates in the water-tight bulkhead are
closed, and the water allowed to bank up until at a
height of seven inches it may be drawn by the pump.
Some little water finds its way aft into the fire-room,
and is pumped out from time to time by the steam-
cutter's boiler, driving the altered main engine bilge-
pump. Our distilling being done between four p. m.
and three a. m., we can pump during that time, when
necessary, letting the water accumulate during the day
(amounting to five inches probably), as just now it will
not freeze and do damage. We shall have to con-
sider carefully whether the steam pumping increases
our coal expenditure or not, for if it does, we shall
have to pump this small amount of water by hand,
altering back the main engine bilge-pump for that
purpose.

By observations to-day a drift since yesterday of
four and a half miles W. by S. is shown.

The carpenters commenced building a porch outside
of the deck-house door, using portions of the observa-
tory for that purpose. When our winter housing is

456 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

complete we shall have quite a village on deck. There
is no doubt in my mind of the superiority of wooden
houses and porches to tent awnings and hatch covers,
and the benefit to be gained compensates doubly, I am
sure, for the inconvenience and lumbering up the deck
while making the passage from port to winter-quarters.

If I could have known before sailing from San Fran-
cisco all that I have learned during the past year, I
think I could have brought about a more comfortable
cruise and have saved myself much mental annoyance,

Septe?nber 21st, Tuesday. — A clay of magnificently
bright weather, but also of low temperature. Maxi-
mum, 155° ; minimum, 11°. Evidently we are going to
have a cold winter. September only two thirds gone
and a temperature nearly zero. Each clay our chances
of liberation seem to grow fainter and fainter. It re-
quires a disposition more sanguine than natural to
gather any comfort, or indulge any hopeful sentiment,
while regarding the icy waste in which we are located.
Alas, alas ! the North Pole and the Northwest Passage
are as far from our realization as they were the day the
ship left England ; and my pleasant hope, to add some-
thing to the history of Arctic discovery and explora-
tion, has been as ruthlessly shattered and as thoroughly
killed as my greatest enemy could desire.

I frequently think that instead of recording the idle
wrords that express our progress from day to clay I
might better keep these pages unwritten, leaving a
blank properly to represent the utter blank of this
Arctic expedition.

Our pumping, however, goes on with commendable
regularity. We have proved by actual demonstration
that it requires an expenditure of an additional twenty-
five pounds of coal per diem if we use the steam-cut-

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 457

ter's boiler to pump out such water as filters aft into
the fire-room through our water-tight bulkhead. This
we cannot stand, and I direct that hereafter pumping be
done by hand. This necessitates the altering back again
of the main engine bilge-pump. We are acquiring a
thorough training and education in the art of pumping
at all events, and I dare say any one of us could write a
valuable paper entitled, " What I know about Pumps."

A low fog rests all the afternoon on the southwest
horizon, and the sky otherwise is very nearly cloudless.
At midnight there was not a speck of cloud in the
heavens, and the most beautiful effects were created by
a bright moon and starlight illuminating the floe and
the ship, every spar and rope of which was so thickly
covered with snow and frost feathers as to be simply a
wonderful sight, while northeast to southwest, about 15°
above the southeast horizon, extended an irregular cur-
tain-like arch spreading at its southwest end into large
patches of a most vivid sea-green. Imagine the ship
standing out in bold relief against these large green
patches, every rope the size of my arm, with soft down-
like fluffy frostings, and the bright moonlight showing
their pure whiteness to double advantage, and my feel-
ings may be understood when I thought such a sight
was worth coming for.

September 22c?, Wednesday. — The early part of the
day was marked by the lowest temperature so far in
the month, 0.5°, but I shall not be surprised to find it
go much lower before September 1880 is a thing of
the past. In fact I have ceased being surprised at any-
thing. This kind of life begets a careless sort of feel-
ing as to what may happen, and a lazy belief that time
is of no value whatever. Knowing that our surround-
ings to-day are the same as yesterday, we see no rea-

458 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

son for anticipating a change to-morrow. With certain
duties assigned for certain hours, we move along me-
chanically, satisfied we can do no more and naturally
unwilling to do less. Deriving our motive power from
the food we eat, we perform the operations of break-
fast, dinner, and supper as a duty rather than as an en-
joyment. With even a liberal variety of food, we know
exactly what we are going to eat and how much, and
when we are going to eat it, and hence have no nov-
elty in that respect. Eating, sleeping, and performing
duties which are as regular as time and as invariable as
one day succeeds another, no calculation is necessary,
no one heeds the arrival or departure of a new day or
a new week. A prisoner in a jail has an advantage
over us ; for knowing his sentence he can fix the date
of his release, while we know " neither the day nor the
hour."

To-day Melville changed back our main engine bilge-
pump to a piston-pump as before, and arranged it so
that it could be worked by hand. To use the steam-
cutter's boiler for pumping as well as distilling requires
more coal than I think we can afford. Our carpenters
were at work felting the forward side of the galley-
house, using all of the felt which remained serviceable.
The sides being protected by the porches, I think we
have made the cook-house habitable, and our cook and
steward seem as pleased with their habitation as if it
were on the banks of the Yang-tse-kiang. We have
such treasures in them as no previous Arctic expedi-
tion had I am sure. Our next work is to build Alexey
a house inside the deck-house, and then our township
will be ready for a charter.

If it had not been for an occasional fog obscuring
everything, we should have had an entire bright and

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 459

cloudless day. Observations show a drift since yester-
day of five miles to S. 71° E.

Yesterday I went into winter-quarters by closing the
door leading out of the forward part of my room, and
opening the one leading into the starboard chart-room.

September 23d, Thursday. — A somewhat agreeable
change from the low temperature of yesterday, maxi-
mum 26°, minimum 14° ; and although not up to fever
heat by any means, still it is acceptable, as giving a
little variety. A very few lines will serve to record
the events of to-day. By observations we have drifted
since yesterday two and one quarter miles to N. 23° W.

September 2ith, Friday. — 9.45 a. m. the ice opened
at the old place about a half mile astern of the ship,
the lead extending a short distance northeast and south-
west. We got a seal by this occurrence, a much de-
sired addition, for our stock is running low. Mr.
Dunbar also saw a walrus, but too far off for a shot.

It is well worthy of mention that during the whole
summer (and spring, too) in all the leads, openings, etc.,
we have seen no white whales. Last fall, after becom-
ing beset, whenever we made excursions to the few
lanes in our neighborhood, it was not uncommon to see
a white whale blow ; and Mr. Dunbar, whose experi-
ence makes him an authority, argues from that fact
that now we are far removed from the open sea. Wal-
ruses and seals will go readily into a pack, and dive if
necessary, swimming a distance under ice from hole to
hole should there be no surface connection ; but the
white whale, unless chased, will not go so far into the
pack as to jeopardize his easy return to the open water.

September 2Qth, Sunday. — One more week come
and gone, and here we are yet ! The usual Sunday in-
spection is made, and I am much pleased to find that

460 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

the dampness has altogether disappeared from the berth
deck. In fact, it is drier than it has ever been, winter
or summer, since we came within the Arctic Circle.
Alexey's house is already occupied by him, and the
stove is in place on the old galley platform.

September 28th, Tuesday. — The usual monotony of
our lives was broken in upon to-day by the appearance
and capture of a large bear, and it is such a welcome
addition to our larder that its acquisition deserves more
than a passing mention. Early this morning our " hood-
lum gang," Prince, Tom, and Wolf, made an attack
upon a valuable dog, Jim, and nearly ate him up before
they could be driven off. The doctor fortunately saw
them and went to the rescue, or we might have been
minus a four-footed friend. These hoodlums have in-
augurated a reign of terror among the pack. If a sin-
gle dog strays away twenty feet from the ship, they
pounce down on him like a. hawk on a chicken, and
proceed at once to " chew him up ; " and as they are
generally describing uneasy circles around the ship,
they make the entire neighborhood unsafe for strag-
glers. The whole pack seem to be afraid of these three
dogs, and cower alongside of or near the gang-plank
ready for a retreat. Religiously shirking work, the
" hoodlums " object to other dogs working, and attack
them if they do work. We have anchored them and
tied, them up until their howling became a nuisance,
and we had to release them in self-defense ; but they
were as intractable as ever. On this occasion it was de-
termined to tie large blocks of wood to them, to ham-
per them in running away from work, and make their
fighting qualities somewhat less obtrusive. Getting
ready the blocks was one thing and attaching them to
the dogs another, for suspecting evil the " hoodlums "

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 461

became impressed with the importance of looking at
the ship from a distance, and departed incontinently.
At eleven o'clock they were observed to be suspiciously
alert, and Mr. Dunbar, who was on the fore yard,
sighted a bear about a quarter of a mile from our star-
board bow, to which these hoodlums at once gave chase.
The alarm at once spread. Out rushed Mr. Collins,
Wilson, Sharvell, Ericksen, Mr. Dunbar, and half the
dogs. Of course the bear turned and ran, and being
out of range already I concluded his pursuit would be
another of the stern chases which we have had without
result. But the " hoodlums " stuck to the game, and at
one third of a mile from our starboard beam came up
with Bruin, and, yelping and dancing around him, so
disorganized his retreat as to make him wheel in circles,
charging at one dog and then at another, until so many
more dogs came up as to hold him at bay. Then se-
lecting a kind of well between hummocks he made his
stand, until Mr. Dunbar coming up stretched him out
with a bullet in his side and another one in the neck.
Upon examination afterwards we found that Dunbar's
first bullet had gone through the heart, cutting away
the lower end of it, and it explained why the bear had
not again risen upon tumbling at the first shot.

Bruin was a perfect beauty ! As he lay upon the ice
on his belly and spread out, with his nose on his front
paws, he seemed as if asleep. Little or no blood was
on the surface of the ice, and the yellowish white of
the fur stood out in all its richness, while so fat was the
carcass that every curve of the body was as fully devel-
oped on the coat as if he had been cut out of marble.

In a triumphal procession he was dragged home on
a sled, the "hoodlums" making a fine distinction be-
tween chasing a bear while alive and dragging him when

462 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

dead, by declining to be caught for harnessing. Fol-
lowing on the wings of the procession they saw the car-
cass laid out for cutting up, and then, falling victims to
their stomachs' cravings, they came near for the scraps,
were caught, the blocks of wood hung to their necks,
and thus weighted set at liberty. But soon after, as if
to show they were not subdued if burdened, they gave
chase to their prey of the morning, and caused him to
make his best time on record in covering the short dis-
tance remaining to the gang-plank. The dimensions of
our prize were as follows : —

Length from tip of nose to end of backbone equals 7 ft. 4 in.

Length from tip of nose to end of tail .

Girth abaft fore shoulder ....

Girth of fore leg below shoulder .

Girth of bind leg below shoulder

Length of fore leg below shoulder

Weight before skinning and dressing

Such an addition to man and dog food is well worthy
of a page in my journal.

In accordance with my custom, the skin and head go
to the captor, Mr. Dunbar. He very generously gave
them to Melville, who intends putting the skin in pickle
and presenting it to Engineer in Chief Shock, upon our
return to the United States. Otherwise the day was as
all other days with us.

September 2Wi, Wednesday. — Another of our clogs
has fallen a victim to swallowing a bone, and of course
it happens to be one of our effective dogs. We could
very well spare one of the half dozen old skeletons that
would not grow fat if they ate forever, but they seem
to have a hold on life that nothing short of a bullet can
loosen. I cannot distinguish the defunct by a name, for
to me he has had none, though the men may have chris-

7 ft.

11 in.

5 ft.

9 in.

3 ft,

4 ft.

3 ft.

6 in.

943^

lbs.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 463

tened~him. The usual post-mortem examination by
Iversen disclosed a bone lodged crosswise in an intes-
tine, and the usual cutting of that article.

The cracking of a pipe leading from the steam-cut-
ter's boiler through the steam-pipe to the water-cask
resulted to-day in spoiling half a cask of water for us,
by carrying along salt-water from the feed tank. We
had used the water at dinner before the trouble was de-
tected, and have consequently absorbed a certain quan-
tity of salt in our systems, but nothing to be alarmed
about I imagine. The most serious feature was the en-
forced expenditure of twenty-five pounds additional coal
to carry on the distilling for the day after the pipe was
repaired.

September 30th, Thursday. — Another bear ! — I sup-
pose one of these days in the future I shall smile at
reading such an imposing manner of describing a very
ordinary occurrence ; but just now, where it means not
only fresh meat for men, but daily food for dogs, I feel
that I cannot make too imposing a heading.

About 3.30 p.m. the man on watch came in the cabin
and quietly announced the stranger. Rushing out with
my rifle I saw Bruin making away over the hummocks,
about three hundred yards ahead of the ship. The
dogs did not see him, nor for a time could they be made
to see him ; but noticing my excitement, they danced
along before me in great glee. At first I led the chase,
but being short-winded, and unused to running in such
drifts as the snow had made among the rough ice, I
wras soon passed by Dunbar, Alexey, and Aneguin, and,
easing up my gait, by Newcomb and Wilson. Alexey's
dogs for a long time could not make out the bear either,
but when they did see him they tore along in such fine
style, that, at the distance of one mile ahead of the

464 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ship, they caught up with him and held him at bay.
Mr. Bear took refuge on top of a hummock, while his
persecutors surrounded him, looking like all possessed,
and dancing around like a monkey in his confusion.
Alexey and Aneguin reached the spot first, and fired.
Off the hummock tumbled the bear, and literally fell
on the clogs beneath. Tom and " Alexey's brown dog"
getting each a slight touch from his claws. A few more
shots finished him. When I reached the spot he lay
dead on his back, with his left fore-paw thrown across
his breast, as pretty a sight as one could see in the
Arctic regions. With wonderful self-denial Dunbar
had held his fire, and tried to get the Indians to do so
(but being at a distance they did not understand him),
in order that I might come up and have the honor of
killing. However much I felt the intended compli-
ment, I was too well satisfied at the addition to our
provisions to feel any annoyance at my failing to enjoy
it. Melville came out with the sled, and we dragged
our prize home, where we found it to weigh 469 pounds.
This marked the day as eventful. Our " hoodlums "
started off in fine style for the chase, but Wolf stum-
bled so often with his block of wood that he turned
back in disgust, with a look that said plainly, " You
may catch your own bears hereafter." Tom kept on,
occasionally stepping on his block, and turning head
over heels, and reached the scene just in time to have
the bear fall on him and plant a claw in him. We re-
moved the block as a reward, and as he of course de-
clined to haul in the carcass, he rejoined his gang in
time to meet and fall upon Alexey's dogs and thrash
them for their zeal, thus no doubt easing his mind for
the day.

A careful measurement of ice-thickness shows that
seven inches have formed since August 31st.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 465

I nearly forgot to mention a very pleasing occur-
rence, the discharge of Kaack from the sick-list and
his return to duty. It is not only a gratifying result
to him, but well worthy of mention in connection with
the general condition of health of all hands. As his
injury consisted of a broken bone, any defect in his
constitution arising from his life in the ice would make
itself apparent by a slowness in healing. If, for in-
stance, anything in his food, drink, or surroundings had
given him a scorbutic taint, an infallible proof would
have been given by the bone of his arm uniting slowly
or badly. But the process of union has gone on regu-
larly and promptly, and the doctor tells me the cure
has been effected in the same time that would have
been necessary if the accident had occurred on shore
in the ordinary course of events.

Another proof is presented in the gunshot wound of
Alexey. This healed promptly, and the hand is as ser-
viceable as ever. And if further proof were necessary,
we can refer to Danenhower's case. For nine months
has he been under severe treatment, involving opera-
tions, confinement in a dark room, deprivation of ex-
ercise, and at times shortening of diet. But though
weak and emaciated, he is as free from scurvy to-day
as if he had-remained in America. In all our trials we
have something still to be thankful for.

October 1st, Friday. — After all the space devoted
to yesterday, it seems like a shame that it is necessary
to use only a few lines for to-day. But so it is. Our
eventful days are like rare oases in a large desert, and
we would like to hurry over the vast wastes interven-
ing. House clown the quarter deck awning for the win-
ter. In the afternoon I went out with Mr. Dunbar,
Alexey, and Sharvell, and we set the bear-trap, about

30

466 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

two miles southwest of the ship, baiting it with a seal,
and we shall now stand by from day to day for a cap-
ture.

October 2d, Saturday. — Mr. Dunbar, the natives, and
I visited the bear-trap to-day, but found everything un-
disturbed. The trap and its surroundings had the same
general dreariness, which is so painful on board and
around the ship. Such a waste as this ice-field is no-
where to be seen out of the Arctic. Not a sound breaks
the monotony. Not a bird is seen from morning till
night ; and but for our own voices to hear, and our
shipmates to see (and neither the one thing nor the
other is a novelty), we might easily imagine that the
world had come to a stand. I can easily believe that
this state of affairs always has been and always will be ;
and somehow or other it is not difficult to suppose that
I have never been anywhere else. The regularity with
which days come and go, the unchanged character of
our surroundings, the mechanical sameness with which
we live, eat, drink, and sleep, all go towards lulling the
mind when it tries to remember any other situation in
the past, or anticipate anything different in the future.
That there are others in the world living in bustle and
excitement we do not yet doubt, because a little over a
year ago we saw them ; but I am well satisfied that if
we held together for five years we should not believe
it. Whether this is a natural sequence of our utter
stagnation or not, I must leave to others to decide.
We are not lethargic to an irremediable extent, how-
ever, and if the ice were to open, we would jump quick
enough to get the ship under way.

October 6th, Tuesday. — At six a. m. Chipp heard a
grinding of ice to the eastward, and I suppose we shall
have the satisfaction now of waiting for the repetition

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 467

of the anxious times of last winter, not knowing how
soon we may have pandemonium around us. In order
to provide for any emergencies we can do nothing more
than getting provisions on deck, convenient for heaving
on the ice, and we therefore devote the day to this oc-
cupation. Pemmican, bread, tea, sugar, cooking-stoves,
alcohol, tents, and sleeping-bags are all that we can
hope to be able to drag should we have to leave the
ship, adding, of course, our knapsacks, medical stores,
instruments, arms and ammunition, and our records,
and if we can get over the two hundred and fifty and
odd miles between us and Siberia with this load we
shall do well.

October Qth, Wednesday. — Hardly had Kaack re-
ceived his discharge from the sick-list than he is back
again. To-day, while moving around the spar deck in
the deck-house, he slipped and fell, striking on his right
elbow and again fracturing the olecranon process. As
the recovery this time will be a more tedious operation
than before, we cannot count on his being all right
again in six weeks.

Commenced to - day banking up snow against the
ship's side. If we are to be located in the pack a sec-
ond winter we may as well keep all the heat inside the
ship, if possible, instead of radiating it through the side.
In order to prevent the freezing of our forward pumps,
we have to keep a fire in the stove on the galley plat-
form at night, and that adds to the demand on our di-
minishing coal pile.

The difficulties under which we labor, the knowledge
that we have done nothing, and the virtual impossibil-
ity of doing anything but retreat should the ice open
(which it certainly shows no signs of doing), are almost
enough to make me tear my hair in impotent rage.

468 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

October 1th, Thursday. — We continued to-day the
banking up of snow against the ship's side. Daily visits
to the bear-trap have thus far been unproductive of
results, not even a track being found. Morning and
afternoon our hunting parties go out and entirely cir-
cumnavigate the ship at distances varying between two
and four miles, and do not see so much as a feather.
No water, no seals ; no seals, no bears ; and evidently
no bears, no foxes ; no foxes, no birds. We are all
alone in the midst of a (to us) measureless frozen ocean,
the only living things in the deathly waste of the north.
The days are so much alike that we almost lose track
of them, or rather fail to notice the date. Man is but
a superior kind of machine after all. Set him going,
and keep him wound up by feeding him, and he can
run monotonously like a clock, at least we do, and I do
not think we are exceptional creatures.

Dull, leaden sky, gloomy as a dungeon to look at, and
an almost steady fall of light snow.

October 9th, Saturday. — The ice is yet ready day
after day for contemplation, and is as unchanging as
the laws of the Medes and Persians. Not a sign of a
bear-track, and the bear-trap was never so carefully set,
nor the scraps of seal laid around it more innocently.
But even bears seem to have left this locality to itself.

At eleven p. m. a slight disturbance occurred among
the dogs, and it led the quartermaster to believe there
was a bear within hail. In fact he thought he saw
Bruin ahead of the ship, and he called me promptly
from my reading. I rushed out, and though the dogs
took my appearance with my rifle as a sure sign of a
hunt, they could find nothing, nor could I discover
any traces.

A dull, gloomy day, enough to make a man blue to

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 469

endure it. Dull, leaden gray sky, no sun, and that ex-
asperatingly light fall of snow which is neither one
thing nor the other.

October 12th, Tuesday. — Gloomy and dull as a fu-
neral. Not a sight of the sun, and not a star. Really
it is such a long time between observations that we
have plenty of time to get lost.

October loth, Wednesday. — Nothing unusual occurs
to mark this day over any other. But 1 observe one
little circumstance which I cannot account for until
time or some future occurrence give a clue. While
standing alongside of the ship, on the ice at the fire
hole, abreast the port cabin door, I noticed a bubbling
of the water in a free place, as if some seal, for instance,
had just gone under. In a minute it had subsided, and
the surface was smooth again. In five minutes it re-
commenced, lasted for a short time, and again ceased.
I should not have attached any importance to it, or,
perhaps, might have remained satisfied with the belief
that it was caused by the discharge from the main en-
gine bilge-pump, but Mr. Dunbar, who came in from
an opening ahead of the ship, described the rising and
falling of water in a small hole he saw, as if acted upon
by a swell of the open ocean, and while the previous
occurrence then came again to my mind, I asked my-
self, " Can it be possible we are approaching open water
again ? "

Mr. Dunbar brought in three seals, having shot and
lost two more, and mentioned having seen a new bird,
with red and black feathers, which tried to alight on a
seal the natives were dragging. The party having
only rifles with them fired at the bird, but without
effect.

October lAth, Thursday. — One more day comes and

470 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

goes, and finds and leaves us in the same situation as
ever.

The new location of the deck-house gives daily more
and more satisfaction with respect to dryness, for it is
marvelously clear from all moisture. But we must
now watch for a new enemy, carbonic acid. The doctor
tests it regularly every Sunday night, and his last ex-
periment shows too large a quantity for perfect health.
It will be by our constant efforts only that we can ac-
complish a proper condition of things, in spite of these
two great enemies, — moisture and carbonic acid.
Sailors, as a rule, confound ventilation with draft, and
though they will unhesitatingly and without noticing it,
live, eat, and sleep in an evidently impure atmosphere,
they promptly complain of cold when a change of air is
permitted. With a stove on our berth deck lighted
during the day, and the one in the galley-room lighted
during the night, with the deck-house covering the
entire deck, there can be no question of a proper amount
of heat being distributed. By keeping the forward
skylight always uncovered, and the occasional opening
of the berth deck doors during the day for ingress and
egress (not to speak of the deck being cleared for in-
spection), the accumulation of moisture in the air of the
deck is carried up into the deck-house and deposited on
its cold roof and sides. So far, we are fortunate. But
a fresh supply of air must be given the berth deck from
time to time, and we find that the occasional opening of
the deck-house door does not accomplish this. There-
fore I have directed the trap-door in the roof of the
deck-house over the skylight to be kept open six inches
or so whenever a snow-storm is not raging, and in order
that the carbonic acid may not bank up on the after
part of the berth deck, the berth deck doors are ordered

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 471

to be opened, and kept open after ten p. m. Promptly
the complaint of being cold is made, though the air
does not move along the berth deck a mile an hour I
am sure. But, by serving out some seal-skin blankets,
additional cover is given, and the complaint ceases. As
a further effort to reduce carbonic acid, since last Sun-
day's observations I have ordered the berth deck doors
opened at and after nine p. m.

Beginning on September 1st, I have instituted the
practice of serving out two ounces of rum once a week,
generally Wednesday night, to all hands. This I con-
sider a good thing, not only because it conduces to
sociability, but because it breaks the monotony, and
gives something to look forward to. This, and two
glasses of sherry at dinner on Sunday, constitute the
extent of our tippling. What a country this is, and
how monotonous a life we lead, may be inferred from
the fact that two ounces of rum every Wednesday are
looked forward to as a change and excitement.

October loth, Friday. — Desiring to get some idea of
the amount of air passing through the berth deck I
took a pocket anemometer down there at eleven p. m.
and obtained the following results : —

Starboard door sill = GO ft. per minute, in (i. e. from aft for-
ward).
Port door sill = 99 ft. per minute, in (i. e. from aft forward).
Skylight hole = 96 ft. per minute, up (i. e. from aft below).
Open air = 570 ft. per minute.

Temperature at berth deck 49° Fahrenheit. Tem-
perature, open air, 10.5°, Fahrenheit.

October lQth, Saturday. — The clearing of the sky
at midnight last night continued, I am happy to say,
giving us twenty -four hours of bright weather, and so

472 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

far as can be judged, promises to give us twenty-four
hours more. Although the temperature fell to minus
8°, it could not keep us from enjoying the bright sun
while it lasted, or the bright moonlight which almost
made sunset unappreciable.

I have heretofore made several attempts to describe
the beauty of these Arctic winter nights, but have
found my powers too feeble to do the subject justice.
They must be seen to be appreciated. It is so hard to
make a descriptive picture of moon, stars, ice, and ship,
and unluckily photography cannot come into play in
this temperature to supply a real picture. Imagine a
moon nearly full, a cloudless sky, brilliant stars, a pure
white waste of snow-covered ice, which seems firm and
crisp under your feet, a ship standing out in bold relief,
every rope and thread plainly visible and enormously
enlarged by accumulations of fluffy and clown-like frost
feathers ; and you have a crude picture of the scene.
But to fill in and properly understand the situation, one
must experience the majestic and awful silence which
generally prevails on these occasions, and causes one to
feel how trifling and insignificant he is in comparison
with such grand works in nature. The brightness is
wonderful. The reflection of moonlight from brio-ht
ice-spots makes brilliant effects, and should a stray
piece of tin be near you it seems to have the light of a
dazzling gem. A window in the deck-house looks like
a calcium light when the moonlight strikes it at the
proper angle, and makes the feeble light from an oil
lamp within seem ridiculous when the angle is changed.
Standing one hundred yards away from the ship, one
has a scene of the grandest, wildest, and most awful
beauty.

We have had other things to contemplate also. The

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 473

hunting parties, on going out this morning, found an
opening in the ice about two miles southeast and east
from the ship, and extending in alternate open and
closed spots for a short distance. Where they were
closed large ridges of piled-up slabs seven and eight
feet thick rose to heights of thirty and forty feet. As
this occurred since yesterday, the pressure and up-
heaval must have taken place during last night. While
going out to the bear-trap yesterday with Mr. Dunbar
we noticed several cracks along the ice, formed over
what had been a lane of water an eighth of a mile
northwest of the ship, which lane extended in an arc
of a circle, or rather curve, around to northeast on one
hand, and west on the other, at distances varying from
one eighth mile to two miles, ending at rough and
heavy ice-ridges. That ice appeared subjected then to
some great strain, and to-day I was concerned to find
that the new ice around us was receiving strains and
pressure. The hunters — Mr. Dunbar especially — de-
scribed the grinding and crashing having recommenced
two miles ahead of the ship as they turned to come in ;
and when Nindemann came home, just before supper,
he reported that the ice was at work heavily, or, as he
expressed it, " the whole ocean was alive."

During the evening various snaps and cracks were
heard around the ship, and occasionally we had a light
jar. Going out repeatedly for examination, we at last
found crevices and cracks meandering along ahead of
the ship under the stern athwart ships, and here and
there in other places.

For nearly nine months we have had a rest, and now
our old cares and anxieties begin again, to end — when?
Our circumstances are somewhat different now, for we
have an injured ship, small amount of coal, and hardly

474 TPIE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

the same vigor that we had a year ago. In anticipation
or contemplation of the winter before us, there is but
little that can be planned. So far as human agency is
concerned we have done all we can do, and must wait
and take things as they come. No human power can
keep the ice still, and no human ingenuity can prevent
damage when it begins to grind and break up. Held
fast in a vise we cannot get away, so we have to trust
in God and remain by the ship. If we are thrown out
on the ice we must try to get to Siberia, if we can
drag ourselves and food over the two hundred and fifty
miles intervening ; sleds are handy, dogs ready, pro-
visions on deck, knapsacks packed, arms at hand, rec-
ords encased. What more can we do? When trouble
comes we hope to be able to deal with it, and survive
it! If it comes too suddenly we shall be in a bad
plight, and cannot help it. From this time forward
care and anxiety will hang on me more heavily than
before.

October 17th, Sunday. — The arrival and departure
of another Sunday marks the passage of one more week
of our imprisonment in the ice. Beyond a sharp crack
now and again, and the discovery of several new crev-
ices in the ice, we have nothing to give us uneasiness,
and we have a day for " calm repose and contempla-
tion." Inspection is made at ten a. m. as usual, and
divine service is performed at its completion, my small
congregation of four, Chipp, Melville, the doctor, and
Dunbar attending.

The day is simply magnificent, and the night beau-
tiful beyond description. At midnight the scene is thus
described by me in the log, and it was one almost worth
the imprisonment accompanying it : —

" At midnight one half of the sky was covered by cumulo-

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 475

stratus clouds moving from north to south, and at that mo-
ment extending from the zenith to the southern horizon, ob-
scuring the moon and the stars (north of the zenith the sky-
was clear, except a streak of cirro-stratus above a small bank
of rising cumulo-stratus). Immediately following the first-
named cumulo-stratus clouds, and near the zenith, was a faint
auroral arch extending from east to west, with its ends slightly
curving to the southward, and hidden by the clouds near the
horizon. As the clouds nearly uncovered the east end, a mass
of bright green light shot up, and spread like a fan over 10°
of arc ; and just as the east end was completely uncovered the
mass changed into brilliant green, spiral curtains, terminating
a bright white arch through the zenith to west. After per-
haps a minute, the clouds being well clear of the arch, the
light paled and lost colors, and the arch ends straggled back to
northwest and northeast, the centre being at the zenith. The
moon then became entirely uncovered, the floe seemed lighted
as in midday, and but few faint streaks of arches remained,
thin and almost indeterminate."

W. N. W. winds, and falling temperature until mid-
night, when it jumped up from minus 14.5° to minus
7.5°, being mild and pleasant by comparison.

October ISth, Monday. — A clay of no particular oc-
currence worthy of mention.

October 20th, Wednesday . — I do not notice that I
am more sensitive to cold this winter than I was last
winter, but I am certainly more sensitive to heat.
With the temperature of the outside air at 14° or 15°
I find it soft and mild, and were it not that my hands
break out with chilblains and old frost bites from last
winter, I should experience no difficulty in going bare-
handed. Of course when I go out on the ice I wear
my fur jacket and suit generally, and am well pro-
tected. But in the cabin, with a temperature of 50°,
wearing ordinary clothing, I am often too warm, and
when by accident the temperature runs up to 60° I am

476 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

positively uncomfortable. Night after night I sleep
with my air port one third open, and yet in the morn-
ing find I have slept too warm if anything. However,
it is rather early to talk ; we have not had our normal
condition of cold yet.

An almost steady fall of small snow particles all day,
enough to be driven along the surface ice (gathering
salt and being consequently of no use to us), and fill-
ing up the spaces between hummocks so completely as
to make many traps into which we flounder in our
wanderings.

October 21st, Thursday. — Another day has come
and gone, and here we are yet; and the only thing
which has disturbed the regular monotony may be de-
scribed as the stupendous discovery of a fox - track.
Upon going out to the bear-trap this afternoon we saw
a number of small foot-prints of this little visitor, and
we promptly sent back to tine ship for a couple of fox-
traps for his benefit should he come that way again.

October 22d, Friday. — Continuing up the prodig-
ious excitement of yesterday, Mr. Dunbar and I walked
out to the bear- trap to-day to look for our fox. We
found he had been there, had eaten up all the small
scraps of meat laid out for him, and walked all over
the fox-traps without springing them, so we walked
back again hoping for better luck to-morrow. Other-
wise the da}r was without event, and so we worry along.
The routine is as regular as clock-work, and is carried
out with mechanical exactness. If we must spend a
second winter in the pack we cannot help ourselves,
and must confront it with cheerfulness and courage.
We have enough coal to keep us warm (unless some
accident requires a resumption of steam-pumping), and
food enough to save hunger, and the only thing to be

THE RETURN TO COLD AXU DARKNESS. 477

dreaded is our being turned out on the floe by the loss
of our ship, and the knowledge that we have to trav-
erse two hundred and fifty miles to get to the main-
land, which may be safely assumed as a humanly im-
possible task.

October 2od, Saturday. — Our fox is not yet caught,
though he visits the place and eats all he can find.

October 24th, Sunday. — Our friend the fox again
visited the trap, and this time got caught in it and
escaped. Hair and blood and a closed trap were the
proofs of his being caught ; his absence sufficiently
proved his escape.

There is a considerable amount of doubt thrown on
all observations taken during such cold weather as we
experience in an Arctic winter. Sextants were never
designed to be submitted to such contraction as they
now undergo in use, and there is no way to allow for
or remedy the changes produced in the length of the
arc. The greater the cold the greater the contraction
of course, but that gives no index error. A sextant
very carefully adjusted to-day, and then having an in-
dex correction of 30", was found after a short exposure
to have an index error of 4' apparently, but how much
the arc was shortened it would be impossible to say.
The mercury on the index and horizon glasses cracks
and splits, and Chipp is kept busy in supplying new
backs. For some time, over a month, I have been try-
ing to get some satisfactory lunars to check our chro-
nometers by, but they have all resulted so ridiculously,
and no twTo alike, that I have despaired of getting any-
thing reliable. As another resource I shall break out
our zenith telescope, and see if it has power enough to
define Jupiter's satellites, by whose eclipses, occulta-
tions, or transits I can get chronometer errors. The

478 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

way of the Arctic navigator, drifting in the pack, is dif-
ficult to determine in winter. Divine service followed
inspection. The berth deck was as dry as a bone fore
and aft, and it would seem that we have solved the
problem, " how to overcome dampness in the living
quarters of an Arctic ship."

October 2ftth, Tuesday. — Our fox is at last caught,
and, poor thing, in two traps at once. Mr. Dunbar, on
going out to them this morning, found the victim moan-
ing and crying, with one fore leg held in one- trap and
one hind leg in the other. Dispatching him he brought
him in, a fine white fox, plump as a partridge, but not
choice enough for eating. Resembling as it did an
overgrown cat, the game seemed too cruelly obtained,
and Dunbar said he felt ashamed of himself for the
capture, though admitting that he had promptly reset
the traps ! The skin will come in handy for trimmings.

October 27th, Wednesday. — As the winter grows on
us, and our daylight fades away to the time when the
sun will leave us altogether, our anxieties recommence.
All the time of our perpetual day, when we hoped and
prayed for a breaking up of the ice to occur, so that we
might again attempt to redeem ourselves by some ef-
fort, not a sound, not a motion was to be noticed. But
now, when a breaking up of the ice can serve no other
purpose but disaster, so far as our human judgment can
foretell, we seem to be promised enough of it. This
morning at daylight a crack or lane six feet in width
was discovered on our port beam, about five hundred
yards distant. It extended to and joined with what
was an open lane an eighth of a mile astern of the
ship. (This last-named lane has remained closed or
frozen over for nearly three months until a few clays
ago, when numerous cracks appeared in it, extending

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 479

lengthwise, or, roughly, northeast and southwest. These
cracks opened on Sunday to a width in some places of
eight feet, and to-day they are again closed, a ridge of
broken blocks four feet in height marking where the
union was made.)

At 11.30 A. m. the ship received a considerable jar,
causing the lamp-chimneys and shades to rattle and
ring;. Most of us were on the ice at the time, and there
it was unnoticed by all seemingly excepting myself. I
detected an earthquaky movement or two which seemed
like a lift and a shove. This, however, is merely a be-
ginning. Next month, if it is anything like last year,
will be full of events.

October 2Sth, Thursday. — Not a sound from the
ice to-day, and evidently a period of rest or prepara-
tion. Soundings in thirty-one and one half fathoms,
and an indicated drift to south.

October oOth, Saturday. — Cracking and noises of
grinding commenced just after midnight, the former
seeming to be under the stern, and the latter coming
from some distance on either quarter. The snaps and
grinding lasted until nearly three a. m., and again set
in for a short time about three p. M. No evidence of
any disturbances could be seen around the ship, though
a crack or narrow lane was found about a mile ahead
where it has opened and closed before.

At midnight an arch 10° in altitude south, made of
curtains of pale green light, with masses of bright
green light pulsating across it, made a brilliant auro-
ral display.

October olst, Sunday. — Another week has come and
gone, and with it ends the month. Uneventful, and, so
far as any results obtained are concerned, a clear waste
of life. It is hard to feel satisfied even with our being

480 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

still alive. That, after all, seems such a negative kind
of thing — a living with no purpose, an existence with-
out present tangible results, a mechanical supplying the
system with food, heat, and clothing, in order to keep
the human engine running.

I have often wondered if a horse driving; a saw-mill
had any mental queries as to why he tramped over his
endless plank, and what on earth there was accom-
plished by his so doing. The saw was generally out of
his sight, he perceived no work accomplished, he never
changed his position relatively, he worked on and on
without advancing a foot, and ended his day's work in
identically the same place at which he began it, and, as
far as equine judgment could forecast, would do the
same thing to-morrow, and every other day thereafter.
If that horse had reasoning faculties, I pity him and
appreciate now his thoughts and feelings. We are in-
dividually in that horse's position — we see no saw, we
can detect no work accomplished, we move on without
advancing a foot, wre shall do to-morrow what Ave have
done to-day and what we did yesterday, and wTe fill up
with oats, so to speak, merely that the saw-mill may not
have to suspend sawing. This kind of life is wrorse than
Mr. Mantalini and his mangle. With him life was "one
demnition grind," but with us it is " one clemnition
blank."

A man up here thinks a wonderful amount of non-
sense, says many things which he would be surprised at
remembering hereafter, and, if he writes, commits to
paper many absurdities which he will laugh at after-
wards. But to a physiologist, who could retain his own
mental poise and strength under these circumstances,
the study of human life and characteristics developed
by a residence of white men in the Arctic regions would
give materials for a very readable volume.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 481

Measurements of the ice thickness to-day gave twenty-
four inches, direct freezing since August 31st. Bright,
pleasant weather until nine P. M., when it became over-
cast, and a steady rise of temperature from minus 21°
to almost zero.

Inspected, according to Sunday practice, and found
everything dry, warm, neat, and comfortable. We have
neither cold nor moisture to complain of this winter at
all events.

November 1st, Monday. — To-day our winter routine
was resumed, whereby our meal hours are changed, and
an enforced exercise outside of the ship takes place
daily from eleven to one. Though the sun has not yet
left us, I consider it well to get the exercise resumed
now, for it can do no harm, and it will insure a proper
ventilation of the ship during the two hours she is
cleared.

I also resume the medical examination of officers and
men, and shall be anxious until I get an expression of
the doctor's opinion as to our general physical condi-
tion.

November 2d, Tuesday. — With to-day we have a
new moon, and in prompt accordance with our experi-
ence of last year a crack occurs in the ice about five
hundred yards north of the ship, in some places six feet
wide, and extending to the eastward for a short dis-
tance. Beyond an occasional shriek of newly made ice
being moved a little, there is no trouble received from
the opening.

November od, Wednesday. — By Sumner of stars our
position is found to be in latitude 73° 44' N., longitude
179° 57' E., showing a drift since October 24th of twenty-
five and one third miles due west. As I did not change
the date when we went to the westward of the 180th

31

482 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

meridian before, I do not change it now, for in all prob-
ability in a day or two we will be east of it again.

Magnificent sunset at 1.45 (shorter and shorter grow
the days), presenting a solar circle showing segments
with crimson lake tints. At six p. m. a faint arch 1.0°
in altitude to northward ; but at nine p. m. the sky was
literally covered with brilliant auroral patches and seg-
ments of curtain arches, which at times pulsated with
pale green light. The galvanometer, with one hundred
feet insulated wire extending nearly in plane of mag-
netic meridian, showed no disturbance, and the auroral
light thrown on unsized paper by a mirror showed no
effect in the sulphate of quinine spots.

A magnificent large seal, weighing 149 pounds, was
shot by Aneguin, and dragged in by " Smike " a good
two miles, — a heavy drag for one dog. Aneguin had
a ducking, however, in trying to secure the prize.
After shooting, he embarked on a cake of ice and pad-
dled out for the seal, but, on nearing his goal, the cake
broke under him and in went Aneguin. Swimming to
the floe edge he wras helped out by Alexey and ran for
home, nothing the worse for his involuntary bath. The
doctor handed in his report of medical examination.
Several cases, such as Danenhower and Kaack, are ex-
ceptional, and have received special mention. Of the
rest of us the doctor finds nothing wrong except a gen-
eral want of tone and less vigor than last year. As
this is exactly what would result from our life of en-
forced monotony and prolonged absence from land,
there is no surprise to be manifested. Generally we
feel strong and well, but have, as a rule, lost flesh.
The small change of temperature during the summer
months compared with our spring and fall cold weather,
and the short time that the respite endured, have not

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 483

been enough to allow us to spring up to anything like
a normal condition. And we are again called upon to
endure cold weather before we have had a decent
chance to recover from our last trial. No doubt we
shall be able to put in this winter as safely as last winter,
so far as our health is concerned, so long as we have the
ship as our home. But if we are turned out on the floe
by disaster, we shall not be as well able to stand the
exposure as we should have been this time a year ago.

The condition of our living quarters, as far as warmth
and dryness go, is all that could be asked, and more
than any other experience has shown. Ventilation of
the berth deck is fairly secured by our present mode,
and, were it not for our lamps, I could say the same of
the cabin. Last winter while we had kerosene we had
light without smoke, but now we are trying to use
Walton's lamps, with oil received from the navy yard,
and it is a failure. The oil is poor, does not flow read-
ily, and easily chokes the tubes. They cannot always
be cleaned, and, in consequence, the light soon grows
dim. Turning up the wick makes a tremendous smoke,
and turning: it down dims the light too much. We
have stood the smoke for a while, but it is too great for
a continuance, and we shall have to fall back on maga-
zine candles.

November 6th, Saturday. — Our long night has com-
menced. The sun showed above the horizon to-clay for
the last time this year, in this latitude, and for ninety
days or thereabouts we must be content with our recol-
lection of his looks. He struggled up about 11.30, and
at noon was about two of his diameters above the hori-
zon, and about 12.30 said good-by. Well, as far as
his heat in thawing ice went he had been of very little
use to us this past summer, and his absence is not de-

484 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

plored on that account. We shall miss him chiefly
when the horrible yelling and screeching of the ice,
and its piling up around us and squeezing and crush-
ing, make darkness a more terrible enemy than cold.

Of this last — cold — we had a lively touch to-day.
At midday it was minus 30°, and at midnight minus
33.2°, — neither of which figures did we have last winter
until January. As last summer was an open (?) season,
it will probably be followed by a sharp winter, and I
suppose we shall see some cold yet that will make to-
day seem a dream of the tropics. The ice commenced
screeching at six a. m. in the northeast, and at 3 p. M. in
the west. At midnight the sky was nearly covered
with auroral loops from east to west, and from north-
ern horizon to 40° south.

November 1th, Sunday. — It is idle to speak longer
of the coining and going of weeks — it is record enough
when I mention the coming and going of months. The
arrival of the first Sunday in the month involves the
reading of the Articles of War and the mustering of
the crew. The reading is conducted with all the se-
riousness and decorum that would prevail in a frigate ;
and the clause, providing that " all offenses committed
on shore shall be punished in the same manner as if
they had been committed at sea," is delivered with as
much impressiveness as if we were in a port full of
sailor temptations, instead of being in a howling wilder-
ness of ice. I think many of us look back to a " shore "
as some memory of our childhood, or a previous exist-
ence in another sphere. That this world should be
anything but pack ice is a tax upon even extraordinary
credulity.

After muster we bundled out on the ice. It was all
there fortunately, for with our present temperature it

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 485

might have melted. Minus 33°. (This is intended for
keen irony, but like Danenhower's description of his
foot warmer, " a hot brick, in the shape of a flat-iron,
made of brass," it may sound somewhat vague and
peculiar.) The sun having left us yesterday, we had
the pleasure of judging where he was by a bright red
tint in the sky, above the horizon. Just to think that
there were people at that moment in our longitude,
with the sun in their zenith, who were not happy and
no doubt complaining bitterly of the heat. They have
no more use for heat than we have for cold.

Inspection showed a perfectly dry and fairly well
ventilated berth deck. I say fairly well if compared
with perfect ventilation, but remarkably wrell if com-
pared with Arctic ships in general. Divine service fol-
lowed at 1.15 p. M.

During the forenoon the ice was found to be cracked
between the ship and the thermometer box, and I sup-
pose the time is not far distant when we shall see the
ice floating away from us again as it did a year ago.
During the clay and evening grinding of ice could be
heard to the southward, and generally the snapping
and crackling of the surface crust.

November 9th, Tuesday. — Observations to-night
show a drift since the 3d of nine and one quarter miles
to S. 64° E.

To our unmitigated astonishment the sun came above
the horizon at noon, some portion of his disc being vis-
ible from eleven a. m. to one P. m. Of course this is
due to extraordinary refraction, for in our latitude the
sun to-day at noon wras 52' below the horizon. If w7e
were superstitious we might attach some significance to
this strange occurrence.

November 10th, Wednesday. — The extraordinary re-

486 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

fraction continued to-day, and even greater in amount.
The sun was well above the horizon at noon, and some
portion of his disc showed from eleven to one, at which
last named hour he sunk out of sight. For how long ?

Mr. Dunbar and Alexey on going out to the bear-
trap to-day saw fresh tracks near it, and setting
Alexey 's clogs on the scent a chase was inaugurated.
The dogs came up with Bruin several times and got
him at bay, but as the traveling was " fearful bad " the
hunters could make no headway, and the dogs were
forced to give in at last. When Dunbar and Alexey
finally came up with the dogs the poor brutes lay ex-
tended on their sides exhausted, but the bear had gone
on.

November 11th, Thursday. — The general monotony
was somewhat varied to-day by Aneguin sighting a
bear from the deck-house, and though he started with
some dogs in chase failed to come up with it. Even
the failure was a change to the monotony.

Bright, cloudless Arctic night in all its beauty of
moonlight and starlight. A magnificent lunar halo at
six p. M., something grand beyond description. Sur-
rounding the moon were sharply defined circles of deep
prismatic colors, making one think of a large colored
glass dial strongly illuminated. The whole, 5° in di-
ameter. Sounds of grinding ice to southward at three
A. M.

November 12th, Friday. — Another day easily re-
corded by a few lines and the greater part of those
lines devoted to mentioning the demise of another dog,
a victim to a cross-lodged mutton bone. The thirty-
four survivors of the canine family do not seem over-
come by grief, — the advent of the steward with dish-
water and dinner bones admonishes them of the greater
importance of the reality of life.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 487

The native instinct among Esquimaux is to let sick
or wounded dogs take their own chances of recovery,
although no lack of regard and good feeling is appar-
ent. If a bear tears a dog, or if in a fight a long cut
is inflicted, the victim licks his sore until healed. Sew-
ing up a wound is not adopted. Anything besides a
wound is diagnosed by Alexey thus, " Something wrong
inside ; bymby, perhaps, die." And though we have
physicked and operated on dogs, " bymby" they do
die.

November lith, Sunday. — At 1.30 a. m. I was
startled by a severe shock to the ship, taking her as if
she were sliding down an inclined plane and suddenly
brought up, or as if she had been struck a severe blow
under her stern. I ran for the man on watch, but he
had noticed nothing he said, and there were no signs
of disturbance in the ice. I learned afterwards that
the shock had awakened everybody aft, but that no
one forward had felt or noticed anything ; it may be
well to add that so callous have we become to such
things as shocks that nobody turned out. At six p. m.,
while the ice was grinding in an ugly way in the lead
one eighth mile astern, 1 was on the deck-house with
the zenith telescope, looking out for occultations of
Jupiter's satellites. Mr. Dunbar came up and quite
earnestly asked me if I heard the pressure going on ;
but as I was watching Jupiter intently I made some
such indifferent answer as, " Heard it some time ago,"
etc., quite to his astonishment. No doubt he thought
that I was taking things easy, but the fact is I have
long since concluded to borrow no trouble. We cannot
prevent any disaster that may befall us, and we have
made all possible provision for its coming. Human
strength is of no avail and human wisdom of no value.

488 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

In our position we have clone all that man can do, and
we must leave the rest with God. After breakfast, as
soon as people began to move around, it was discov-
ered that the lead a mile ahead of the ship, as well as
the lead one eighth mile astern, were both open, the
latter to a width of one hundred yards. Hunters were
out at once and Nindemann got a seal, in which was
found an embryo, as beautiful an addition to our col-
lection of natural history as we have yet received. Ex-
cept as to its flippers it looked like a puppy in many
respects.

Inspected the ship at eleven, and had divine service
at 1.30. The berth deck, for dryness and general com-
fort, was as perfect as perfection itself. If we keep it
all winter as it is now, we may consider that we have
solved a difficult (heretofore) Arctic problem.

November \bth, Monday. — A day magnificently
bright and clear. For the greater part of the day the
sky was absolutely cloudless, and a bright moon and
starlight made up a superb Arctic picture. Light S. W.
breezes and a most remarkable rise of the barometer
from 30.15 to 30.95. It will be well worthy to note
carefully the result of this occurrence, particularly as
it comes about the time of full moon. If -a full moon
for tides, a high barometer for wind, do not make
some remarkable change in the ice I shall be much sur-
prised.

November lQth, Tuesday. — The barometer goes up,
up, until at nine a. m. it reaches its maximum 31.08 ;
at nearly the same time the moon became full, so these
two occurrences coincided. Light southerly breeze of
six miles had diminished to two miles by noon, and as
the barometer then began to fall I was on the lookout
for some unusual result. The wind began to back and

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 489

freshen, going from S. S. W. to E., freshening gradu-
ally, and the barometer dropped to 30.89 (one tenth
of an inch in the last three hours); the temperature
went up in the most charming manner to minus 10.5°.

Sounds of grinding ice were heard from ahead and
astern at three p. m., but nothing remarkable occurred,
and we must wait to see what to-morrow will bring
forth.

November 17th, Wednesday. — The result of the
wonderful barometric action has shown itself to-day in
a lively gale of wind which blew the light snow surface
around in clouds of blinding dust, and banked them up
here and there in hard masses strong enough to bear a
man's weight. The wind varied between E. and E. S. E.
all day. The barometer dropped rapidly from 30.77
to 30.10, and the temperature rose steadily to plus
8.5°, giving us by comparison a temperate zone exist-
ence.

November 18th, Thursday. — The gale came quickly,
lasted but a short time, and is gone. Dull and gloomy
weather ; heavy water-sky to northwrard.

November 21st, Sunday. — Usual Sunday routine of
inspection and church.

November 22d, Monday. — I said nothing yesterday
about the dryness of the berth deck and ward-room, for
those places are now steadily dry. The galley-house,
from its exposed situation, has given some discomfort,
but I hope that is now overcome. Deprived of its shel-
ter of last winter, the deck-house, its forward end is not
sufficiently protected by the felt which we have padded
it with. As a consequence, condensation takes place on
this forward end during the night (the galley fires are
out at four o'clock), freezing and giving no trouble.
But when the galley fire is lighted in the morning, this

490 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ice melts, and used to make the two beds wet. By
building a little canvas pocket or back to each berth,
the ice can be scraped out readily each morning before
it melts, and the enemy is accordingly thus circum-
vented.

In my room and in Chipp's room condensation takes
place regularly on the forward bulkhead, and generally
remains as ice. But sometimes, when the temperature
of the cabin runs up to 60° by inadvertence, our rooms
get warm enough to melt the ice, and a little pool or
meandering stream results. This, of course, is at once
dried, and the evil is checked. But when the berths
are against the inner bulkheads, everything is as dry as
a bone. Low temperature as a rule, except at nine
and six p. m., when some ice opening made heat escape
from water exposed, and the temperature jumped up.

November 23c?, Tuesday. — Another day of the usual
stagnation. Alexey's dogs got on the trail of three
bears, overtook them, and brought them to bay for the
time ; but the bears escaped by swimming across a lane
of water before Dunbar and Alexey could come up.

November 24th, Wednesday. — Light, variable airs.
A day more devoid of interest it will be difficult to find.

November 2Sth, Sunday. — One more week is come
and gone, and our life of monotony continues. The
sameness of our existence has become painful, and life
seems a burden. The mere fact of doing something
would be a relief, but even that is denied us. We have
done nothing, are doing nothing, and, so far as we can
see, shall do nothing that can be of any use. To eat
food and wear out clothes, without any result for the
money expended, is poor comfort. I am satisfied that
we are affected by the length of time since we have
had foot on shore. Like the old saying, " Dogs need

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. ^^4tff

grass occasionally," may be quoted as a proverb, " Man
needs land once in a while." Excepting the small party
that landed at Koliutchin Bay, none of us have set foot
on the land for nearly fifteen months, and our sensa-
tions now are somewhat dull when we try to realize
what it was like. According to my idea, we have be-
come receivers of magnetism without proper earths to
let it escape. Our rest is broken and unnatural. It is
not an unusual thing for those of us who turn in at ten
p. M. to lie awake until three A. m. ; and I, who cannot
turn in until after midnight, never turn in before one
o'clock, and rarely get asleep until nearly 3.30. We
are all awake at various times afterwards, and no one
sleeps after nine A. m. Each morning we are dull and
heavy, having no feeling of rest obtained, and a kind of
lethargy clings to us until we get out for our daily walk-
ing exercise from eleven to one. From that time for-
ward we are in our normal condition, having no especial
desire for sleep, and yet feeling somewhat out of sorts
for want of it.

November 30th, Tuesday. — Soundings in twenty-five
fathoms. Very rapid drift to N. N. W. At three p. m.,
by a Sumner of stars, the ship is placed in latitude 74°
N., longitude 178° 15' E., showing a remarkable drift
in two days of twenty-two miles to N. 32° W. Hardly
believing that we could have gone so far, I got the
meridian altitude of Jupiter at eight p. m., which gave
a latitude of 73° 50', differing 10'. But as the meridian
altitude was only 18°, and the refraction accordingly
much in doubt, I decided to consider the Sumner nearer
correct.

December 2d, Thursday. — The usual monotony was
very pleasantly broken to-day by the killing of a bear.
At ten a. m. Chipp sighted him, and got within eighty

492 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

yards of him, but it was so dark as to prevent seeing
the sights on the rifle. Like my adventure of August
22d, the bear showed no fear of Chipp, but advanced
toward him until the rushing of men and dogs startled
him, and he then turned and ran. Dunbar soon overtook
and passed Chipp, and Alexey and Aneguin passed both,
while the dogs took the lead and brought Bruin to bay.
Alexey got the first bullet in the prize, so the skin goes
to his employer, Mr. Bennett ; Dunbar got the second
shot, and Aneguin the third. The fourth and fifth shots
were delivered by Dunbar and Alexey, and the prize
was ours at about 1,000 yards on our port quarter. He
was a fine capture. Length over all, eight feet three
and one half inches; weight, eight hundred pounds; a
welcome addition to our provisions and clog food. The
traps were both found tripped but empty, showing that
they had been visited. Preparations are being made
for rigging one of our whale-guns at the trap to de-
liver a charge of buckshot, which ought to astonish if
not kill any bear who trips the line attached to the
trigger. A lively clay for wind. The surgeon's report
of examination is satisfactory. An improvement is no-
ticed in our condition this month over last month.

December 5th, Sunday. — At ten A. m. a crack was
found in the ice three hundred yards east. This is the
line of the same break that occurred some time ago.
At eleven p. M. the crack closed, grinding and groaning
going on at a great rate. After nine p. M. the cold
made our fastenings snap and crack. Observations
show our drift since November 30th, E. fifteen and one
fourth miles. The auroral display was exceedingly
fine to-night.

December 1th, Tuesday. — A bright, pleasant day
until noon, when it began to cloud up, becoming en-

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 493

tirely overcast by three p. m., and so continuing with
occasional clear spots.

December 11th, Saturday. — Our position is deter-
mined to be in latitude N. 73° 44', longitude W. 178° 56',
showing a drift since the 6th of thirty-three miles to
S. 74° E. This is remarkable for its amount, and would
be satisfactory in its direction if it would only continue
to the Atlantic Ocean. The day is otherwise worthy
of note for its clearness and brightness, and its intense
cold, minus 39°, which, later, led me to cut the usual
twro hours' exercise down to one hour.

Frequently during the day we were startled by loud
reports like the discharges of heavy guns, and the ship
was considerably jarred by them. I can only account
for these noises by supposing that the heavy ice splits
under contraction caused by the intense cold.

December 12th, Sunday. — The arrival of another
Sunday brings the usual inspection, which is satisfac-
tory, as showing dry quarters and other internal com-
forts. Divine service followed at 1.30.

December 15th, Wednesday. — A very severe day,
N. N. W. winds, backing after three p. m., and reaching
W. N. W. by midnight. The temperature begins at
minus 40°, and steadily falls until it reaches minus 43° ;
the lowTest point of our mercurial thermometer 4,313,
spirit thermometer 4,397, then reading minus 40°. The
purple bulb spirit thermometer, which agreed very well
with our mercurial last winter, was now exposed, and
it went down until at midnight it read minus 48°. The
sky has been absolutely cloudless all day.

December lQth, Thursday. — I have been waiting for
a long time in anticipation of making general observa-
tions on our surroundings, weather, etc., at the time
of the total eclipse of the moon, which occurred this

494 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

morning ; but I suppose I thought about it so much,
or thought about so many other things, that I lost it
in the confusion of my mind. For the first intimation
I had of having overlooked the time was a note in
the slate this morning of its approaching expiration
at three A. m. All that I can remark about this eclipse,
with reference to our experience, is, that it was pre-
ceded and followed by extreme cold ; that for twenty-
four hours previous we had an absolutely cloudless sky;
during the eclipse a thick haze prevailed, and after-
wards cloud-forms, cirrus, cirrus-stratus, and stratus,
were in view. During the day we had numerous
shakes and jars, as though we were passing over ice-
cakes. One of these was sufficient to set my lamp
swinging.

At three a. m., while lying awake, I heard two sing-
ing or humming sounds along our wires in the cabin,
resembling the buzz of a bee, or the whiz of a mos-
quito. These came from the vibrating of the dia-
phragms in the Bell telephone receiver and sender,
indicating an electric storm without, etc. This subject
is now receiving particular attention from Chipp, and
will be described thoroughly in a more suitable place
than this journal.

December 19th, Sunday. — Inspection at eleven,
church at 1.30, and this is the record of one more day
in the Arctic regions.

December 21st, Tuesday. — This day is noticeable
chiefly as having decreased by one the number of our
dogs. He was known in life as " Hard-Working Jack."
The usual post-mortem was performed by Aneguin, and
it was found that the premature demise was due to sev-
eral mutton-bones, two pieces of a tin can (cutting en-
trails, as might be expected), a piece of cloth, and the
fag end of a rope.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 495

December 22d, Wednesday. — Though the sun yes-
terday reached his greatest southern declination, and
commenced his return, I do not notice any difference
in the amount of light. We have had dull, gloomy
weather, dark as a pocket, and very depressing.

December 2iih, Friday. — Curious weather. Fluc-
tuating barometer, extremes 29.85 to 30.03. Very
hazy, lowering, dull weather, and a nearly steady fall
of fine snow.

In the evening we had a minstrel entertainment in
the deck-house, somewhat improved over last year.

GRAND OPENING

OF THE

NEW" JEANNETTE OPERA HOUSE,

Corner Forecastle Ave. and Bowery,

Friday Evening, Dec. 24, 1880.

Doors open at seven o'clock. Performance at eight.

Complimentary.

The success of the evening, however, was Sharvell as a
young lady, in an after-piece. Gortz, as costumer, had
made out of our calico a fine dress, with paniers, etc.,
complete, and found means to construct a beautiful wig
of long blonde hair. With these, white stockings and
low shoes with blue rosettes, Sharvell transformed him-
self into a very comely young English miss, quite calm
and self-possessed. A feature of the evening was pre-
senting each guest, on entering, with a little button-
hole bouquet of colored paper leaves.

The jokes were of the usual order, some broad ones
being inevitable. The conundrums were rather feeble :
" Should Melville give an alarm of fire, what place
would it remind you of ? " " Melville Sound." " Why
was Chipp like McClellan? " "Because he was liked
by his men." " Why was Danenhower like his native

496 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

city, Washington?" "Because he was at the head of
navigation." " Why was I like the mainmast ? " "Be-
cause I was de long-un." " Why did the crew of this
ship resemble the Captain ? " " Because he is Com-
mander, and they come-under, too," etc., etc.

Probably, however, the most acceptable occurrence
was the issue of a double ration of whiskey, with which,
hot water, and sugar, we tried to be cheerful, and make
Christmas Eve rather less dreary than many of our
days now s«em.

Christmas, December 2oth, Saturday. — The day was
made as acceptable as possible fore and aft, by the pro-
viding of a good dinner from our resources. And I
think we may refer to our bills of fare with pardonable
pride. Our mince pies were a work of art ; though
they were made from pemmican and flavored by a bot-
tle of brandy, they were as delicate to the taste as
if compounded from beef fresh from market. Hot
whiskey punch in the evening fore and aft brought an
agreeable close to our second Christmas in the pack.

CHRISTMAS DINNER, 1880.

CABIN. BERTH DECK.

The usual Saturday Soup. Soup.

Roast Seal, Apple Jelly. Roast Seal, Apple Jelly.

Tongue. Bacon (broiled).

Macaroni. Macaroni.

Tomatoes. Tomatoes.

Mince Pies. Mince Pies.

Plum Pudding. P'gs.

Figs. Raisins.

Raisins. Dates.

Dates. Nuts.

Nuts. Candy.

Candy. Chocolate or Coffee.

Chocolate and Coffee.

THE RETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS. 497

There is some atmospheric disturbance at work to
the southward of us, which may reach us later, for in
no other way can our high temperature, plus 11.5°, and
rapid drift be accounted for.

December 27th, Monday. — A very remarkable auro-
ral display at three A. m. is thus described by Chipp :
" A bright auroral curtain about 10° above horizon,
from east southeast to northwest, generally white,
but occasionally showing a green shade, and rarely a
brownish red color, which disappeared as soon as seen.
Above this curtain the sky was of a deep blue-black
color, through which the stars shone brilliantly, as
they did also through the deepest part of the curtain.
Above the deep blue-black color there were irregular
spirals and streaks of white light, which were in con-
tinuous motion, appearing and disappearing rapidly.
From east to west, through zenith, was an irregular
arch formed of detached streaks of brownish red light,
among which white light would suddenly appear, and
as suddenly vanish. This arch was 5° broad. Stars
shone with apparently undiminished brilliancy through
the deepest color.

" Between this arch and the bank of stratus clouds
above the southern horizon the sky was covered with
irregular patches and streaks of light, which seemed to
drift away to windward. At 3.30 all had broken up
and drifted to southwest, and there succeeded white
flashes all over the sky."

December 28th, Tuesday. — Weather clear, bright,
and pleasant, but extremely cold. Minus 32°.

December 31st, 1880, Friday. — The last day of the
year and I hope all our trials and troubles have gone
with it.

32

498 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

The men had a celebration from eight to ten p. m.
in the deck-house, very good minstrels and single acts
making an acceptable programme.

THE CELEBRATED JEANNETTE MINSTRELS.

PROGRAMME.

Part I.

Overture ..... Orchestra.

Ella Ree A. Sweetman.

Shoo Fly . . . . H.Wilson.

Kitty Wells .... Edward Starr.

Mignonette H. Warren.

Finale Company.

Intermission.

Part II.

The World-Renowned Aneguin, of the Great Northwest, in

his original Comicalities.
The Great Dressier, in his favorite Accordeon Solos.
Mr. John Cole, our favorite Clog and Jig-Dancer.
Wilson, as the great Captain Schmidt of the Dutch Hussars.
Violin Solo. By George Kuehne (Ole Bull's great rival).
Intermission.

Part III.

Concludes the performance with the side-splitting farce of

"MONEY MAKES THE MARE GO."

Mr. Keene Sage .... George Boyd.

Miss Keene Sage . . . Miss Sharvell.

Charles Tilden, a promising young

man in love with Miss Sage . H. Leach.
Julius Goodasgold ... H. Warren.

Costumer, A. Gortz. Property Man, Wm. Nindemann.

THE EETURN TO COLD AND DARKNESS.

499

JEANNETTE MINSTREL TROUPE.

PROGRAMME.

Part I.

Overture .....

Company.

The Slave ....

Mr. Sweetman.

Nellie Grey ....

Wilson.

What should make you Sad

Boyd.

The Spanish Cavalier

Starr.

Our Boys ....

Warren.

Part II.

The Great " Ah Sam " and " Tong Sing," in their Wonderful

Tragic Performances.
Accordeon Solo, by the Celebrated Artist " Herr Dressier."
Mr. Henry Wilson, in his Serio-Comic Songs.
Alexey and Aneguin still on the Role.

Violin Solo G. Kuehne.

Ellagic Views . . . Mr. Sweetman.

Part III.
To conclude with the popular play

"THE SIAMESE TWINS.
Professor .....
Agent, in love with Professor's

Daughter ....
Professor's Daughter .

The Twins

G. W. Boyd.

H. W. Leach.

Miss Chicken.
P. E. Johnson.
H. D. Warren.

Friday, December 31st, 1880, " Star Spangled Banner
Company.

Everybody was bright and cheerful, and the perform-
ance closed by all hands singing the " Star Spangled
Banner." For the sake of saying something cheering
to the men, I then made a few remarks to the effect

500 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

that we were about to turn our backs on the old year
and our faces to the new ; that this cruise, like every
event in life, might be divided into two parts, that
which has been and that which is to be. During the
past sixteen months we had drifted 1,300 miles, far
enough, if in a straight line, to reach the Pole and be-
yond it ; but we were only actually 220 miles north-
west of where we were first beset; we had suffered
mishap, and danger had confronted us often ; we had
been squeezed and jammed, tossed and tumbled about,
nipped and pressed, until the ship's sides would have
burst if they had not been as strong as the hearts they
held within them ; we had pumped a leaking ship for a
year and kept her habitable ; we were not yet daunted,
but were as ready to dare as ever. We were all here,
in good health, etc. We faced the future with a firm
hope of doing something worthy of ourselves, worthy
of the enterprise of the gentleman whose name was so
closely connected with the expedition, worthy of the
flag which floats above us, as by the blessing of God
we would, and then we could go back to our homes,
and with pardonable pride exclaim in the future, " I,
too, was a member of the American Arctic Expedition
of 1879."

The Kittiwake.

CHAPTER XL

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE.

January — 9 June, 1881.

The Old Year out and the New Year in. — The Solid Snow. — Im-
prisonment. — Exercise. — Sudden Changes. — Reappearance of the
Sun. — Increase of Daylight. — Dog Misfortunes. — Deep Sound-
ings. — Aneguin's House. — Washington's Birthday. — Alexey's
Sickness. — Bear Fight. — The Sick- List. — Sick Dogs. — Danen-
hower's Case. — The Chinamen stray off with the Dogs. — Search
for the Lost Dogs. — The Wildness of Ice. — The Dogs on Short
Rations. — Land ! — Speculations about the Island. — Mr. Chipp
on the Sick-List. — Lauterbach's Misfortune. — A Party sent to
visit the Island. — Their Outfit. — Orders. — Lead Poison. — Re-
turn of the Party. — Report of Discoveries. — Henrietta Island. —
Jeannette Island. — Anticipation of Trouble. — Sudden Disaster.

January 1st, 1881, Saturday. — I begin the new year
in this book by turning over a new leaf, and I hope to
God we are turning over a new leaf in our book of luck.
The record on January 1st, 1882, " No greater advance
toward the Pole, or toward the accomplishment of some
other object worthy of consideration," would be humil-
iating indeed. I am, of course, thankful and grateful
for our preservation in many perils, for our continued
good health, and for our undiminished zeal and enthu-
siasm as manifested last night, when the men made the
deck-house ring with their cheers at the end of my re-
marks, but I want to get on to achieve something to
save us from disappointment and mortification.

Melville and Dunbar sat up with me to see the old

502 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

year out and the new year in. At midnight, when
the men had finished a verse and chorus from " March-
ing through Georgia," eight bells were struck for the
old year, three cheers were given for the ship, eight
bells more were struck for the new year, and 1881 was
thus officially inaugurated in the United States Arctic
Steamer Jeannette, in latitude 73° 48' N., and longitude
177° 32' E.

January 3d, Monday. — A gale all day from east.
The ship is buried up to her rail by the snow-drift, and
wherever the deck was exposed large masses were piled
there also. A low bank in the southwest horizon, which
has remained there for two days, looked suspiciously
like land.

Usual medical examination to-clay and the doctor re-
ports favorably, our general condition being even im-
proved, though we never had anything to complain of.

January 1th, Tuesday. — The day began with a con-
tinuance of the gale, but it moderated rapidly after
noon. The sky being cloudless we had excellent chances
for determining our position ; by meridian altitude, Ju-
piter, and time sights of Vega, we find we are in lati-
tude 74° 8', longitude 175° 32' E., showing a drift of no
less than thirty-eight and one half miles to N. 58° W.
since December 31st. This is startling, for it shows
more of a chance of getting along somewhere yet. We
are very little south of our position of June 3d (74° 18'),
which we attained after a steady drift during March,
April, and May ; and if wTe can only hold our own near
this until the effect of the Siberian rivers can be again
felt, we may get a push that will get us into open wa-
ter, or at least navigable water. Soundings in thirty-
two fathoms, rapid drift to W. N. W. being indicated by
the lead line. The planet Venus showed at three p. M.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 503

on the south meridian, about 2° above the horizon. It
was a beautiful sight indeed. The refraction being
considerable, she showed with remarkable size and daz-
zling brilliancy, while seeming to dance about with un-
restrained joy. I take it for a happy omen.

The old crack, two hundred and fifty yards east of
the ship, opened again to the width of one foot. Tracks
of a bear were found nearly alongside this morning.

January 6th, Wednesday. — At three a. m. one would
have believed wTe were in for a lively time. At 2.50
the ice seemed in general excitement, snapping and
grinding, while the ship experienced several severe
nips. The quartermaster was running into the cabin to
report, but was met by Chipp on his way to make
weather observations, so I was not aware of it. The
quartermaster's impression was that everything was
about to turn upside down. Chipp says the ice was
cracking and grinding under his feet right alongside.
In ten minutes all was quiet again, and when daylight
came the only sign of any change was the closing to-
gether of the lead opened yesterday.

I anticipate from the falling barometer and increasing
cold a S. W.% wind before long. Anything that will
favor us is much to be desired. I can see nothing to
be gained by ranging along parallel to the Siberian
coast, and something may be gained by working to the
eastward. If patience and long - suffering, hope de-
ferred and deferred again, anxiety and ambition, could
give me foresight, how glad I should be, — perhaps, for
after all the yet unknown future may be worse than the
known present.

January 7th, Friday. — It would be very difficult for
any one accustomed to the winters of the temperate
zone to understand how hard the snow may be packed

504 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

by the action of the wind up here. The gale which
we had some days ago, and which sent us spinning away
to the northwest, played some curious freaks. It not
only buried the ship to her rails, but it laid out the
surface snow into long ridges sastrugi, which give our
surrounding floe the appearance of a newly-plowed
field. These ridges piled up in straight lines running
to leeward and as hard as ice, and making walking dif-
ficult, lead me to many a tumble as I poke about with
a lantern, reading thermometers, etc.

Our weary days drag along without novelty or
change. Living mechanically as we do, no change or
novelty seems possible. The wind having ceased to
blow, we are zigzagging again, evidently ; for our lead
line showing us to-day thirty and one half fathoms, in-
dicates also a slight drift to S. S. W. And so we go ;
the temporary hope that at last we are drifting some-
where was soon dissipated. So far as I know, never
has an Arctic expedition been so unprofitable as this.
People beset in the pack before have always drifted
somewhere to some land, but we are drifting about like
a modern Flying Dutchman, never getting anywhere,
but always restless and on the move.

Coals are burning up, food is being consumed, the
pumps are still going, and thirty-three people are wear-
ing out their hearts and souls like men doomed to im-
prisonment for life. If this next summer comes and
goes like the last without any result, what reasonable
mind can be patient in contemplation of the future ?

January 107/i, Monday. — Another easterly blow,
which causes the snow to fly in clouds again along the
surface of the floe. Barometer falls rapidly from 30.46
to 30.09, and the temperature as quickly runs up to
plus 6.5°, causing one to feel quite languid with the

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 505

heat. This sounds queer, but it is quite correct. So
generally are we accustomed to cold, and warmly clad
in consequence, that a change like to-day gives one a
lazy, drowsy feeling not easily overcome. A range of
32° is considerable, and would occasion remark at any
time at home.

January IWi, Wednesday. — One year ago to-day
we had our serious trouble with the ice and received
our injuries. Since that time the water has steadily
come into the ship, and has been as steadily pumped
out. Chipp kept a record of the number of pump-
strokes to-day, and determines our leak to be 2,692 gal-
lons for these twenty-four hours, or 112& gallons per
hour. Weather generally dull and gloomy until three
p. m. ; bright and pleasant thereafter. To-day at noon
I could read the instruments on the floe without a lan-
tern for the first time this year. At ten p. m. a brilliant
aurora.

January 20th, Thursday. — A very cold day, but, ow-
ing to the absence of wind, not an uncomfortable one.
I have made it a rule to suspend the enforced exercise
from eleven to one whenever the temperature is below
minus 30°, and in extreme cases of gales of wind have
extended the suspension with warmer temperature.
Though not enforced, the taking of exercise seems to
be adhered to for an hour at least, under even these un-
favorable circumstances. The thing is left to individual
option. To-day, while the thermometer stood at minus
44.5°, officers and men were walking around on the floe
as unconcernedly as if we had had a spring day common
to the latitude of New York. It is a matter of congrat-
ulation thus far that we have not had a single case of
serious frost-bite.

January 21st, Friday. — Another very cold day, and

506 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

being favored with very light southerly airs we are able
to go about without much discomfort. One's feet seem
to be the most vulnerable, particularly if standing still
for any time. In spite of fur stockings and seal moc-
casins, the heat is drawn out rapidly and wasted on the
ice beneath. As is usual with cold weather, we have
considerable auroral display. But as these displays are
carefully recorded in the meteorological log, I do not
care to repeat them here.

January 22d, Saturday. — Position : latitude 74° 8'
N., longitude 173° 26' W.

January 23d, Sunday. — A bright, pleasant day, but
intensely cold (minus 47°). Light southerly and S. W.
airs make outside walking tolerable, and for a short time
even very pleasant, but the heat seems to gush out from
one's nose and feet and bring one back to the realiza-
tion that it is a winter's day. Towards bedtime Mr.
Dunbar, on entering the cabin, announces in a grave
tone that he " thinks there will be frost to-night," and
after some consideration we all agree with him. Possi-
bly people in New York are feeling cold at plus 32°
(only 79° warmer than we are having it), — a tempera-
ture which used to remind us of the tropics last sum-
mer, and led to a search for straw hats. However, as
philosophy considers no such thing as cold, but charac-
terizes that phenomenon as a less degree of heat, we
may merely consider our climate as not so warm as that
of New York. I never think of phenomenon without
being reminded of Melville's story of the Scotchman,
who defined a phenomenon to his son Jamie as follows :
" Gin you see a coo, Jamie, that 's no a phenomenon ;
and gin you see a tree, that 's no a phenomenon ; but
gin you see a coo climbing a tree backwards, that 's a
phenomenon, Jamie, that 's a phenomenon."

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 5Q7

An extraordinary feature is the marvelous height to
which the barometer has risen. Beginning to-day at
30.55 it reaches 31.7 by midnight, and is not fin-
ished yet in its ascent. Something unusual may be an-
ticipated with respect to the weather as a sequence to
this state of things.

A bright red glow showed on the southern horizon at
noon, and a warm red glow in southwest at three p. m.,
— welcome signs of the approaching return of our long
absent sun. Already I have considerable daylight in
my room at noon, — not enough to read by, to be sure,
but still enough to enable me to do without my perpet-
ual candle, and to look at the ghastly shapes of my fur-
niture with a sense of pleasant relief to my eyes as I
peer around me from my easy chair. Inspection and
divine service followed our usual morning occupations.
It would be endless repetition to say we have a per-
fectly dry berth deck and not a sign of drip.

January 2Qth, Wednesday. — One thing may be said
of .this winter which we could not say of the last, that
if we have had plenty of cold weather we have also had
some remarkable changes to higher temperatures. Two
days ago we had minus 50° to contemplate, and now we
are sweltering at 0 and above it. What these sudden
changes may portend I cannot say, and what physical
circumstances they ma}^ indicate I am in no position yet
to affirm. But to my perhaps too sanguine imagination,
it seems that if we have reached such a changeable part
of the world we may reasonably hope for a different
experience next summer than we had during its prede-
cessor, and perhaps get adrift from these remorseless
prison walls of ice that have held us so firmly for seven-
teen months.

The easterly gale begins with a velocity of twenty-

508 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

nine miles an hour, but rapidly moderates, and by mid-
night we have a stark calm.

January 27th, Thursday, — Light southerly airs, po-
sition obtained showing a drift of thirteen and one
fourth miles N. 20° W. since 22d. Latitude 74° 20' 56"
N., longitude 173° 10' E., — the highest latitude we
have obtained in the nineteen months' cruising ! Slow
music !

January 31st, Monday. — Ice found by actual meas-
urement to be five feet four inches thick by direct
freezing since August 31st, and a gain of ten inches in
the past month. As all our measurements are made by
boring in a protected place, no increase of thickness is
due to snow-drift freezing on the surface. We get the
actual growth, and naturally all increase is on the un-
der side.

It is worthy of note, that the upper half is much the
harder. It is with great difficulty that the auger is got
down, the ice offering as great resistance as plate-glass
or rock, and the pieces broken out by the auger threads
being as firm as flint. Through the lower half the bor-
ing is much easier, the ice seeming to be softer and
more yielding.

February 1st, Tuesday. — The first of the month
brings the surgeon's examination if it brings nothing
else. Dr. Ambler concluded the examination, and
handed in his report. The condition of thirty-one of us
is pronounced good, the remaining two (Danenhower
and the cook) being in fair condition. The cook has
nothing the matter with him, but is simply thin.

Taking advantage of a break in the generally pre-
vailing cloudiness, Chipp gets a set of sights to-day by
which our position is determined to be in 74° 39' N., and
172° 25' E., a drift since the 27th January of thirty-two

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THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 513

miles N. 33° W. This is our highest latitude thus far,
but not the highest I hope for the cruise.

The gales and strong winds hold on with curious per-
sistency. To-day it blows from southeast from twelve
to nineteen miles an hour, while, strange to say, the ba-
rometer goes up steadily from 30.39 to 30.68, and the
temperature as regularly falls to minus 13.5°. Under
ordinary circumstances this would indicate a northerly
wind, but there is no disposition to change.

My wind record for January is curious. Of the
7,644.8 miles of wind, 5,137.1 are from between east
and south by east, and of these 2,892.2 are from east
alone. Our experience since September, 1879, fails to
show as windy a month. Our drift for the month end-
ing to-day is ninety-nine miles N. 59° W., as against
sixteen and a half miles S. E. for the same month last
year. There is so much encouragement in these fig-
ures that I record them here. A bright red glow on
the horizon at noon showed us where the sun had got
in his effort to reach us on the 3d.

February 2d, Wednesday. — Still drifting rapidly,
this time due north, and a marked increase in our
soundings thirty-six fathoms. The old lead astern is
opened to-day, and before ice can form Alexey and
Aneguin go out to it and fortunately get a seal.

February 5£/i, Saturday. — Observations to-day place
us in latitude 74° 49', longitude 171° 49' E., a still
further drift of thirteen miles to N. W. I confess T am
considerably disappointed, for, flattered by the increase
of soundings, and the rapidity of drift indicated by the
lead line, I was in strong hopes of finding our latitude
to be 75°. We no doubt have been further north than
74° 49', and are set back somewhat by the N. W. wind
of yesterday evening, though our lead line to-day, in

514 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

showing forty fathoms, indicates no drift, and our lost
ground cannot amount to much.

However, " Every cloud has a silvery lining," for, to
console us, we had the sun on our horizon to-day at
noon. The last time we saw it was on November 10th,
1880 (being then, as on the 9th, raised above the
horizon at noon by extraordinary refraction), and our
night has therefore been of eighty-seven days. It is
worthy of mention, however, that the sun disappeared
on the 6th of November, did not come above the hori-
zon on the 7th and 8th, and that our night might fairly
be called ninety-one clays, as against seventy-one of
last year. Well, we are all here, thank God, and as
hopeful and reliant as ever. We all look more or less
bleached out, and the doctor says we all look care-worn
to some extent. But I do not think any men could
lead the life we have led for seventeen months, of
peril, uncertainty, disappointment, and monotony, with-
out showing traces of its effects.

To-day we commenced with N. W. wind, but it backs,
and grows light in so doing, until at midnight it is from
east, and the temperature falls to a disagreeably low
figure ; though between nine p. m. and midnight it
jumps up from minus 36.5° to minus 26.5°. I may say,
however, with perfect correctness that the cold seems
to affect us less this year than it did last, and though
our night has been longer now than then, it has passed
away with seemingly greater speed. I cannot explain
the first fact, because it is contrary to general experi-
ence ; the second, however, is easily accounted for by
our exemption from pressures and ice movements. Last
year we were never easy — jam, smash, jam, smash —
until finally we had our stem sprung, and a leaking
ship to care for and preserve. This year we have not

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 515

been disturbed at all. The doctor puts it very well
when he says, " Last winter I went to bed expecting to
be turned out, and was surprised that I was not ; but
this winter I go to bed expecting not to be turned out,
and would be very much surprised if I were."

Our dogs have pulled through all right, but one hav-
ing yielded to the superior force of sharp bones in his
intestines. Though they are all lean and thin, I hope
soon to get fattening food for them in the shape of bear
meat. Bruin ought to leave his hibernation, and wan-
der around by sunlight in quest of food, and follow
the wind until he gets in our neighborhood. This win-
ter we have fed our dogs on seal-blubber mixed with
condemned oatmeal, which mitigates the effects which
blubber alone might produce from its oily properties.
The mixture steamed seems nutritious, and at all events
has accomplished our purpose.

February 7th, Monday. — The days seem to increase
■ in length like magic, — that is, the amount of daylight
seems to spring to large proportions, considering that
it is only two days since our sun came above the hori-
zon. This morning at six o'clock low, bright dawn
showed in the southeast ; at 10.22 a. m. the sun com-
menced to shove his upper limb to view from deck ; and
at 1.10 p. m. he passed again from view. At three
o'clock there was enough light in my room to answer
ordinary toilet demands, though not enough for read-
ing; but on the floe everything was bright and lively.
Venus and the moon showed plainly, Jupiter and Sa-
turn were barely visible in. the broad daylight, and stars
of the first magnitude not at all.

Accompanying the bright weather we had cold ad
nauseam. As is usual when the temperature is decent,
say between zero and minus 25°, the sky is generally

516 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

overcast, and the sensation produced is that of dullness;
and when the weather is bright enough to be enjoyable
the temperature is low enough to freeze the enjoyment.
It is on these occasions that we confidently predict
" frost to-night."

February 10th, Thursday. — I believe, upon mature
reflection, the only thing of importance in to-day's ex-
istence is our learning of one of our dogs having had
a tape-worm, and our proceedings to keep the article
from being generated* in other creatures, human or ca-
nine. About a week ago our little Kussian dog Dan
got rid of about eight feet of tape-worm, which it ap-
pears was carefully secured and bottled by Mr. New-
comb. Dan is now tied up, will receive no food for
twenty-four hours, and then will be treated to a dose
by the doctor, to insure a further installment or an ex-
haustion of the supply.

February 12th, Saturday. — Such curious weather as
ours has been to-day deserves recording. We are evi-
dently preparing for another blow such as we had on
June 24th, 25th, and 26th, the barometer acting in a
similar way. The temperature, however, acts differ-
ently. Then the coming wind was preceded by minus
44° to minus 49°, but it had pushed it up to plus 2° by
the time it ended. Now the temperature runs up to
plus 15.5° in anticipation. If the proportional increase
remains the same, we ought to have ice melting around
us before the coming gale ends. A year ago we had
on February 12th between minus 31° and minus 39°,
and an average for the day of minus 35.6°. Verily,
verily, no two winters in the Arctic are alike.

February 14th, Monday. — It begins to look as if we
wrere not going to have a gale after all. Position 75°
4' N., longitude 171° 3' E. ; drift since 5th, N. 37° W.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 517

nineteen three fourths miles. I have always felt that
75° would be our Rubicon, and now we have passed it,
and may hope for better things. Soundings forty-four
fathoms, a rapid drift to N. by E. Happy omen. Mr.
Newcomb while out to-day noticed a piece of ice of
this year's formation, he thinks, with icicles a foot or
more in length, from which drops of water were ready
to fall. These icicles were hanging from the south side
of the piece of ice, and were sharpened to quite an
edge southeast and northwest, as if cut by a blast of
drifting snow during our late heavy southeast winds.
The sun was about 5° above the horizon, the temper-
ature of the air minus 9°. He brought a piece on
board with icicles depending, and upon melting it I
tasted some of the water, and found it unpleasantly
salt, accustomed as I am to distilled water. The specific
gravity proved, however, to be 1.0005, and that is
fresher than anything we have seen thus far from sea-
water ice. Now, as I am convinced that the con-
tinued consumption of just such water (if no worse)
has had much to do with the heretofore unaccountable
outbreak of scurvy in previous expeditions I am de-
termined to bottle this specimen and take it home, as
also a specimen of the distilled water such as we have
used nearly always ; and in America to submit the first
specimen to medical experts for examination and anal-
ysis, asking these questions : " How long, under the
peculiar conditions of life in the Arctic regions, could
men habitually use that water without becoming scor-
butic ? " And, " Would it not be wonderful (or at least
strange) if men continued to drink it and did not be-
come scorbutic ? "

February 15th, Tuesday. — The wind veered to S.
S. W. and blew twenty miles an hour at six a. m., and

518 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

then veered away and grew lighter, so we cannot be
said to have had a gale.

To our unspeakable astonishment the lead line gave
fifty-seven fathoms, and a sticky mud at the bottom,
with a very rapid drift E. by S. Can it be possible that
we have left the Siberian shoals and are on the border
of a Polar Ocean ? I almost expected to see the ice
melt ! Our soundings were at ten A. m., and at 6.30
we established her position in 74° 59' and 171° 57' E.,
a drift since yesterday morning of fourteen and seven
tenths miles S. 70° E. These occurrences make this a
noteworthy clay. Magnificent weather, sky absolutely
cloudless after nine a. m.

February lQth, Wednesday. — Sunrise at 8.57, sun-
set at 3.05. The amount of sunlight we now get is
very charming after such a long spell of being without
it, and as our dawn light begins at six A. M. and lasts
until six p. m., we are able to see enough clay to make
the night less wearisome when it comes. At my end of
the mess-table we have had no artificial light at our
three o'clock dinner, and I smoke my after-dinner pipe
in a twilight that is conducive to enjoyable thinking.
Before the sun had been so long with us last year we
captured our first bear, but this year we have seen only
fox-tracks thus far. In this part of the world at this
season there can be no food for foxes, and they must
depend on what Bruin leaves them from the hunting of
seals. So as we see fox- tracks bears ought to be in
our neighborhood.

February 17th, Thursday. — It is so long since we
have seen a cloud that we nearly forget what it is like.
A remarkable mirage prevailed all clay. The horizon
was raised all around like a solid wall resembling cliffs
of a sea-coast. The hummocks, of course, made this

THE LAST OF THE JE ANNETTE. 519

appearance, and it was not difficult to imagine a broad
expanse of water at all points resting against the foot
of these cliffs.

February ISth, Friday. — This morning, between
ten and eleven, Danenhower (who is now able to get a
bit of sun and fresh air occasionally), while walking in
the trench under the port quarter, saw a bear close to.
He gave the alarm and away went the dogs pell mell,
headed by the " hoodlums," and, overtaking Bruin,
fought him and killed him before anybody could get
near. Tom and Alexey's dog got the bear by the
throat and held him while the rest of the pack sailed
in. When the carcass was brought alongside it really
looked like that of an overgrown cat, it was so small.
She (for he was a she) was only five feet six inches
long, two feet two inches high, three feet two and a
half inches girth, and weighed only one hundred and
twenty-nine pounds. Wilson easily tossed her on his
shoulder and carried her in. We suspect from her
small size and poor condition that she is the survivor
of the family of mother and two cubs we fired at and
wounded August 26th. Our theory is that mother and
one cub died from their wounds, and the survivor has
hibernated near us all winter.

When Aneguin came back from his cruise this after-
noon he astonished us considerably by the news that he
had found a " house " big enough for two men to live
in about two miles southeast of the ship. I think he
was considerably frightened at his find, and looked
upon it as something uncanny. By close questioning
it was elicited that the house was of canvas, that it had
a piece of brass served in it ; and then it occurred to us
that he had found a piece of tent-awning we had left
behind in the smash up November 25, 1879. The

520 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

" piece of brass served in it " meant a brass eyelet, one
of a number along the edge for lacing. Though many
times since we have hunted for our old resting place,
it has remained hidden. Chipp will go out to-morrow
with a sled and bring in the valuable relic. Another
absolutely cloudless day, except for a suspicion of stra-
tus clouds seen by the doctor at three A. m.

February 19th, Saturday. — Our anticipations of yes-
terday with respect to the house which Aneguin found
have been verified. Chipp went out this morning and
brought the trophy into the ship. He found it about
three miles southeast of the ship, and in a location
which gave evidence of about six feet of the surround-
ing ice having melted last summer. Nothing was found
of two barrels, which, being empty, were not looked
after when we broke away.

February 20th, Sunday. — The bright sunlight seems
to make us forget that we have gone through anything
in the past, and makes me at least hope implicitly in a
successful future.

February 22d, Tuesday. — Washington's birthday,
and celebrated by us for the second time north of the
Arctic Circle by mast-head and flagstaff ensigns and
the jack forward. With all patriotic solemnity we
hoisted them at sunrise and hauled them down at sun-
set, and " another of them was gone." A bright, cold
day ; temperature, minus 40.5°.

February 23d, Wednesday. — Bright and pleasant
weather, and the cheerful temperature of minus 42.5°.
Light airs from southward and westward, then a calm ;
and afternoon a light breeze springs up from the east-
ward with which the temperature rises, and I hope will
continue to rise, for I do not want our good average
for February to be spoiled.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 521

February 24th, Thursday. — Another instance of
extraordinary change of temperature in twenty-four
hours. Yesterday we had minus 42.5°, and to-day we
get minus 1° ! Who wants more than that to make
him happy ? A fine easterly gale, however, explains
the warmth. Although the clouds of drifting snow
threaten to bury us as usual, we are somewhat sur-
prised at having good large flakes fall at nine P. m.

February 2oth, Friday. — A gale blowing all day
from E. S. E., and temperature steadily falls to minus
14°.

I am strangely inclined to think that we are skim-
ming along close to the line of comparatively deep wa-
ter, and while making some northing are making more
westing, agreeably to the shape of the coast line of Si-
beria, and that when the ice in these rivers breaks up
we may be shot out to the northward far enough to
get into water sufficiently deep to give these floes a
chance to break up and expose some navigable lanes.
Nous verrons.

February 2Qth, Saturday. — Latitude 75° 11', longi-
tude 170° 31' E., a drift since the 19th of seventeen
and three quarter miles N. 56° W. The E. S. E. gale
continues twenty-six to twenty-one miles an hour until
noon, and after this it moderates, and by midnight has
backed to E. eleven miles an hour. The temperature
rapidly falls as the barometer rises, and the clouds clear
away so that after three p. m. we have an absolutely
cloudless sky.

February 27th, Sunday. — I am sorry to record that
Alexey is on the sick-list with an annoying trouble. A
cicatrice has opened on his leg, having been irritated
and inflamed by the tight lacing of his moccasin, — a
regular habit with him, — and has become an ulcer of

522 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

some magnitude. Apart from the laying up of a valu-
able hunter, and the additional care to be employed in
nursing one more sick man, as well as the constant
dread of having to look after two men now instead of
one should disaster overtake us, there is created a cause,
though not, as we can prove, a reason, for a suspicion
hereafter that we were not free from scurvy, much as I
have taken pride in our exemption all along. From
Alexey's imperfect knowledge of English, and our en-
tire ignorance of his language, the doctor cannot get an
exact account of his medical history. But as far as can
be ascertained, he had some disorder at St. Michael's
which Mr. Newman treated, and from Alexey's descrip-
tion of the effect produced, his hair falling off, etc., it
is likely that Mr. Newman dosed him with mercury.
At all events, Alexey had at that time several of these
sores, one of which, thanks to his tight moccasin lacing,
has turned into an ulcer.1

The probabilities — in fact, the certainties — are
that the man was never so well cared for, so regularly
and properly fed, so comfortably housed, and so little
worked in his life as he is now ; and in any other place
than this his condition would not suggest even a suspi-
cion of scurvy. But, as heretofore, the idea of an Arc-
tic expedition was always inseparably connected, seem-
ingly, with scorbutus ; the fact of this one escaping it
entirely would be received with more or less incredu-
lity. Accordingly, the occurrence of this ulcer on Alex-
ey's leg is peculiarly annoying.

The usual Sunday inspection and divine service.

1 This statement must be corrected. Subsequent inquiry shows that
Alexey had these sores before he came to St. Michael's, and was treated
by his uncle, who applied pulverized whalebone, etc. He was afterwards
treated at St. Michael's with mercury for another disorder, and the original
uicer business and its cause may have been unknown to Mr. Newman.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 523

February 28th, Monday. — We had some little dis-
turbance to-day in the jarring of the ship at one, eight,
and nine P. M., and the frequent snapping and cracking
of the ice. After so much E. and S. E. wind, I suppose
some slack place has been made in those directions ; and
as we have to-day fresh N. W. winds, a closing up has
occurred, which would explain the disturbance. Some
snow and fog indicated openings in the ice in our neigh-
borhood, and the barometer and temperature readings
were in accordance with such changes going on. Sound-
ings in thirty-nine fathoms; moderate drift S. This is
unpleasant, for I want to hold on to our latitude until I
can get some good out of the Siberian rivers, to wit :
pushing us and our ice to the northeast to deeper water
where this summer we may hope for a release.

By measurement the ice around us was found to be
six feet thick, direct growth since August 31st.

March 1st, Tuesday. — The medical examination be-
ing concluded to-day, the doctor handed in his report.
It is, on the whole, satisfactory. Six are in good con-
dition, and two (Mr. Danenhower and Mr. Dunbar) fair.
All hands forward are in good condition except Alexey,
and his condition is fair. The doctor reports that a
want of tone prevails ; that is, we are not as vigorous
and could not stand exposure and prolonged muscular
exertion as we might have clone when we first reached
the ice. As far as Alexey is concerned, the views of
the doctor and myself are fully set forth on the preced-
ing page. To-day we have a moderate northerly gale.

March 6th, Sunday. — A bear of 374 pounds weight
was captured to-clay after a most tremendous fight. At
about eight A. M. he came up from astern, and when
about five hundred yards distant was sighted by the
dogs, about twenty of whom made for him and brought

524 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

him to. He took to a hummock to have a command-
ing position, and there the dogs charged him, while
Nindemann and Wilson hastened to the scene with rifles.
He fought tooth and nail, and flung the dogs off right
and left with many a cut and scratch. Chipp saw the
fight from the deck-house, and says that when the dogs
charged the fur would fly, and then a dog would be sent
through the air, torn and repulsed. When the men
came within range Nindemann fired, the ball passing
through the bear, glancing against some bone, and, to
our great sorrow hitting poor Plug Ugly, entering his
lungs and causing death. It was not until WTilson fired
that Plug Ugly fell, and it was at first supposed he was
killed by Wilson's shot. But our usual post-mortem
showed a flattened Remington bullet in the dog's lungs,
and the entrance and exit of the ball were found in the
bear's carcass. Wilson's piece was an English rifle.

When injuries came to be examined, we found it a
very costly bit of bear. One dog killed, Plug Ugly ;
Prince with his back and fore shoulder cut, where Bruin
had caught him in his mouth and flung him ; Tom bad
a long gash on his rump, which had to be sewn up ;
and Wolf, the third hoodlum, had a long cut from his
rump to his stomach, requiring considerable sewing.
Bingo was torn in his side in two places clean through
to the intestines, making plenty of stitching necessary.
One of Alexey's dogs had a gash in his throat from the
claw. Snoozer had his mouth lengthened by a claw on
the cheek. Smike was torn in two places, and cuts of
less importance were more common. Such a fight we
have never had. The bear was seemingly a mother
of recent date, for she was plentiful in milk (in fact,
smaller tracks were afterward found alongside her
trail), and quite fat and otherwise in good condition.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 525

Ordinarily they do not fight much, generally jumping
around and around to keep face to the dogs, but this
one had her war paint on with a vengeance.

Something is getting ready for a move, for three
times to-day, seven A. m., two and four p. m., the ship
was heavily jarred, and the grinding and snapping of
the ice occurred alongside of us, though nothing could
be seen.

March Sth, Tuesday. — We have had a screamer of
a S. W. gale all day. Away we flew to the northeast,
our soundings deepening to thirty-six and one half fath-
oms. What little was left visible of the ship on her
starboard side was promptly buried by the clouds of
drift, and we looked like three masts rising out of a
snow-bank ; even the decks were piled up, and one
had to climb over the snow barricade that the wind
had heaped up against the porch door.

March 10th, Thursday. — A light S. W. breeze and
steadily increasing temperature. Just as the wind
changed, at three p. m., the ice commenced to jar the
ship. The sound of our going over some underlying
pieces wras apparent, and considerable strain seemed to
be received. Five hundred yards east of the ship a
long crack occurred running north and south, and the
ice beyond immediately commenced crowding in, break-
ing up edges and piling a ridge all along its length.
This advance looked something like our old experience
of November, 1879.

March 11th, Friday. — Our days are steadily length-
ening. At nine to-night the twilight arch was distinct
above the northwest horizon. At midnight brilliant
flashing of an auroral mass of curtain segments west
between horizon and zenith. At the same time I re-
marked what I have frequently heard before, noises

526 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

from the ice all around me like the singing which a
whiplash makes in cutting through the air, or a noise
produced by switching a rattan.

March 12th, Saturday. — Latitude 74° 54' N., longi-
tude 171° 16' E., 320 miles northwest of Herald Island,
— a drift since the 5th of ten and one half miles N.
80° E. The temperature remains uniformly low and
minus 43°. Sunrise, 6 h. 18 m. ; sunset, 5 h. 25 m. ;
early dawn, three a. m. — northeast ; last twilight, nine
p. M. — northwest. Considerable fog along horizon from
nine a. m. to six p. m. The ice five hundred yards south-
east of the ship got under way between six and eight
A. m. and made quite a disturbance, and between noon
and one p. m. the screaming and grinding commenced
ahead. This motion of the ice, after our long quiet of
over a year, is incomprehensible, unless by some happy
chance we are as close to the northern edge now as we
were to the southern edge then of a great icy barrier.

March 13th, Sunday. — Sunday comes in the ordinary
course of events, and finds us still here or hereabouts.
Inspection is made as a matter of routine, for things do
not change much from clay to clay. The holds and
store-rooms are showing large holes, and our provisions
are steadily diminishing, with nothing to show for the
consumption. We have been an expensive Arctic ex-
pedition in view of the results, for, like unworkecl horses,
we have " eaten our heads off and have accomplished
nothing."

Divine service followed at 1.30. As an evidence of
our vagaries in the Arctic we have taken to flying kites,
Chipp of a scientific kind for electrical effects, and the
Chinamen of a fancy kind for their own amusement,
and in their enjoyment of the fun they amuse the whole
ship's company.

THE LAST OF THE JE ANNETTE. 527

March 11th, Monday. — Surprised by sounding to-
day in fifty and one third fathoms. Our position is
found to be in latitude N. 75° 5', longitude E. 171° 36',
showing a drift since the 12th of twelve and three
quarters miles N. 28° E. Temperature minus 43°. Dug
away snow from the port rail amidships, to enable us at
least to see over the ship's side, — something we have
long failed to do.

March 15th, Tuesday. — An unusually bright and
pleasant day, but very cold, minus 45°. By counting
the stroke of our bilge-pump for twenty-four hours we
determine the amount of our leak to be two hundred
gallons per hour.

March lQth, Wednesday. — Astounded to-day by
getting sixty fathoms of water, the deepest yet obtained
by us north of the Aleutian Islands. By the sun at
noon, we find Ave are in latitude 75.7°, and by Venus at
8.30 p. m. we get our longitude 171° 48' E.? showing a
drift since the 14th of N. 59° E. 3 miles.

It is worthy of remark that the increase in depth is
abrupt. On the 13th we had thirty-eight and one half
fathoms, and on the 14th fifty and one half fathoms.
Yesterday we had forty-six fathoms, and to-day sixty.
I think the water to the northeast will be deeper the
further we go, and my prayer is that we may go on
until we come out into the Atlantic Ocean.

March 17th, Thursday. — The wonder is increasing.
Sixty-seven fathoms to-day, and a slight drift N. E.
May it keep up and increase in rapidity until we come
up into the Atlantic very early in the summer. A
mysterious disappearance of one of our clogs, Skinny,
is now to be mentioned. He has been growing thin so
regularly since he first came to us that of late there has
been but the frame of a dog visible. Now he cannot

528 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

be found, and it is supposed that he has wandered away
somewhere and become covered with drifting snow and
thus buried. He never would have been of any use to
drag a sled, but still it is unfortunate that his end should
have occurred in this way.

The cheerfulness and persistence with which our two
Chinamen attend to flying their kites would lead one
to suppose that they were on green, grassy fields at
home. They make them of all sizes and all shapes, —
like flies, like birds with wings, etc., — and as long as
there is daylight they are out on the ice enjoying their
sport. When work requires their presence in the galley
or cabin they tie the kite-string to a boat davit, and
leave the kite flying until they can run out again to
watch it. I verily believe they would cheerfully tear
up all their clothes to make kite-tails of.

March ISth, Friday. — Soundings in sixty-six fath-
oms. Sunrise at 5.38, sunset at 6.10. Our sick-list to-
day received another addition in Dressier, who dislo-
cated one of the bones (os magnum) of his right wrist.
While he had his arms full of provisions, carrying them
forward to the berth deck, he attempted to open the
deck-house door, and in so doing sustained the injury.
It will lay him up for a week, but beyond that there is
no reason to be concerned.

Alexey is improving, I am glad to say, his ulcers
granulating all right. There is no reason to suspect
any scorbutic taint in his case.

Danenhower pulls along just the same, sometimes
better and sometimes worse. There is no reason to
hope for his improvement until he can be operated on
ashore, and no reason to fear unless we should be turned
out of the ship and he should fail to stand the exposure
and hardship of ice life.

THE LAST OF THE JE ANNETTE. 529

March 19th, Saturday. — Soundings in seventy-one
fathoms. Slight drift to N. Observations place us in
latitude N. 75° 15', and longitude E. 171° 36', a drift of
eight and one half miles N. 20° W. since the 16th.

Yesterday I had occasion to speak of sick men and to-
day I mention sick dogs. Poor Tom received a severe
hurt in the memorable bear fight, for to-day the doctor
got a piece of broken bone out of his back, and it would
seem that Bruin must have taken him in his mouth and
bitten deep before flinging him to one side. It will
be a long time before Tom is on duty again. Wolf is
mending slowly, his injury giving him a strong disin-
clination to sit down, however, but this is favorable
to his improvement. The other dogs are also improv-
ing. Smike was succeeding, by judicious management,
in keeping his wound open, but Wilson made him a
one-legged pantaloon and clapped it on him, and now
Smike is so proud of his clothes that he has forgotten
all about his injuries.

March 20th, Sunday. — To-day the sun crossed the
line coming north, and I hope he will see us out of
all our trouble before he crosses it going south. He
showed that we are in latitude N. 75.17°, and that is
some comfort.

Inspection and divine service mark this day above
others.

March 21st, Monday. — Soundings in sixty-eight
fathoms, and an indicated slight drift to N. W. Every
time we go northeast wre deepen our water, and shoal
it when we go northwest. When a good depth con-
soles us, a light wind sets us west again, and thus heads
us off.

This morning wTe found a track ahead of the stem,
and one leading astern, as if our floe were split in a line
34

530 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

with the keel. At the same time we noticed that our
snow walls were an inch or two away from the sides, as
if an opening and spreading outward were about to oc-
cur. We can but await developments, as we did in
the fall of 1879, for I have long since ceased to build
any castles in the air on probabilities or possibilities.

March 22d, Tuesday. — The doctor communicated to
me to-day some matters in relation to Mr. Danenhower's
case, which I consider proper to enter here at length.
The doctor considers that the diseased eye is in such a
condition that no improvement will take place in it un-
less a very serious operation is performed, though no
assurance can be given that this operation will be suc-
cessful. Still, under favorable circumstances of surround-
ings, appliances, and hospital treatment the operation
would be considered advisable, and no hesitation wrould
be felt. Here, howrever, the situation is unfavorable.
The doctor has no proper instruments in the first place ;
and finally, if any mishap should occur by which wre
were turned out on the ice without a ship, the eye would
be in a worse condition and would suffer more than if
let alone. For as it now is, it can be kept at least from
growing worse. Danenhower can see with one eye, the
right ; is in fair physical condition ; is not absolutely
helpless; and, in the event of disaster, stands a better
chance of safety than if he were disabled by an opera-
tion of which the ultimate benefit is more or less doubt-
ful. I have no hesitation in approving the doctor's
views, and in asserting that Danenhower's case is best
dealt with in leaving it judiciously alone.

It would be difficult to find a more perfect day than
we have had. Light airs, clear sky, a bright sun, and
hard, firm walking, go to make up an Arctic Paradise.
So bright and warming was the sun that the tempera-

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 531

ture, minus 39°, was forgotten ; and after walking long
enough to get the blood in circulation, such a glow of
heat was felt as tempted me to throw off my fur coat
and continue without it. I did not do it, however, for
no doubt I should have had my enthusiasm cooled. I
see very clearly we shall have to come back to snow
spectacles before long. Such a dazzling diamond dust
as the floe presents under the action of the sun's rays is
too trying for long endurance. And yet the sun has
only 15° or so altitude. Sunset 6.39, and considerable
daylight even at midnight.

When the air is perfectly dry, and the sky cloudless,
the intensity of the sun's rays, even in these low temper-
atures, is wonderful. In fact, as we can have a dryness
of atmosphere here that is unusual in the tropics, except
in deserts, the sun's heat may be more uncomfortable
here on the same day than in places much further south,
though in the latter case the temperature shown by a
thermometer may be as much above zero as here it is
below. It is a fact verified by our experience that we
have had a greater sensation of cold in the summer,
when dampness and fog are common, than in the win-
ter, when the atmosphere was dry, although in summer
the temperature was from 30° to 40° plus, and in winter
from 30° to 40° minus.

March 23d, Wednesday. — This month seems to hold
on with cold weather very steadily, still minus 39°. We
had very much warmer weather last year at this time,
though of course it should be remembered that we have
not had as great a degree of cold at any one time this
year as last. However, the air was so dry, the breeze
so light, and the sun so intense that we do not complain
of to-clay, for it has seemed delightful. With the sun
above the horizon for fourteen hours, strong twilight

532 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

for six hours more, and even a dawn light at midnight,
we can no longer be oppressed by darkness. It is so
hard to realize that we are unable to go ahead. What
would we care for labor if we could only accomplish
something by it ? Nineteen months of inactivity and
failure is a long time and a severe trial, but I am satis-
fied we have all the zeal and energy needed to make a
dash when we are given the chance.

March 2\th, Thursday. — Soundings in sixty-four
fathoms, light drift W.; it is again evident that the deep
water is northeast of us.

March 25th, Friday. — Dressier has so far regained
the use of his wrist as to be returned to duty. But as
I am quite convinced that Chipp is overworked, and as
he looks wretchedly thin, I have directed him to dis-
continue taking three A. M. meteorological observations,
and I shall hereafter take them myself.

March 2ftth, Saturday. — And thus do we drag our
weary length along, and seemingly no nearer a success.
Is there never to be a change to this simply horrible
monotony ? Soundings to-day in sixty-one fathoms ;
slight drift W. S. W.

March 2Sth, Monday. — Latitude 75° 27' N., longi-
tude 170° 26' E., and a drift since the 19th of eighteen
miles N. W. We are to-day 350 miles northwest of Her-
ald Island. As may be seen we have, for some days,
been having cold mornings and evenings, and consid-
erable rises of temperature in the middle of the day.
It may be that the winter is breaking up, or, poetically
speaking, " lingering in the lap of spring."

We have been quite excited to-day about ice open-
ings. At six A. m. masses of dark vapor were rising
in clouds from north northwest. Around by north to
southeast and from aloft a very large opening could be

THE LAST OF THE JEAXXETTE. 533

seen. Toward four p. m. another opening occurred in
the southwest, and the old lead one eighth of a mile
astern (north) opened also. All the hunters were out,
of course, and made for the water. But three seals
were seen, too far to shoot at, and no bear-tracks.
By using a glass from aloft, ice could be seen across
this large opening to the northward. So we were not
on the edge of an open sea, as we might have hoped.
Generally speaking, however, the ice is full of small
cracks, and it seems as if a good southwest blow would
send it streaming away to the northeast without any
difficulty, and getting these fields into deep water
break them up, and so allow us a chance to get our
poor ice-ridden ship under way. We had quite an
alarm about Wilson, who, accompanied by his satellite
Smike, started off at the first sight of water. Not
coining back by six p. m., though the recall had been
hoisted for two hours, Ericksen and Starr were dis-
patched in search of him. Eight p. m. came and no
Wilson, and I was about to send out large parties in
various directions, when the man arrived with Smike.
We had next of course to send for Ericksen and Starr.

Wilson had crossed a crack before it opened, and
on his way back he found himself headed off. Conse-
quently he had a five mile walk over rough ice, until
somewhere on our starboard quarter he could get across
and make his way home.

March 29th, Tuesday. — As if by magic every ice
opening of yesterday is closed to-day, and not a drop
of water is to be seen. A light N. E. breeze veers to
E. N. E. and to S. E , and the ice is all solid again. To
the southwest of us it came together with some force,
for a ridge of broken lumps marks the line of closing.

April 1st, Friday. — Our spring and summer routine

534 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

goes into effect to-day. But one item needs especial
mention, and that is, " watch below to go hunting."
This, it will be observed, insures every man going on a
hunt once a day, and, incidentally thereto, the securing
of enough exercise to prepare him somewhat for possi-
bly greater exertions.

April 7th, Thursday. — Seventy-two fathoms, and a
rapid drift N. N. E. The faster the better, for I am
convinced we stand a better chance of breaking out
of our ice-prison by getting into deep water. Having
finished breaking the ice out of the store-room, we now
turn our attention to the deck-house, from which the
frost deposit is scraped by bushels and carried away in
wheelbarrows.

April Sth, Friday. — Seventy-five and a half fath-
oms; still deepening, and a slight drift S. S. E. Lati-
tude 75° 46', longitude 169° 57' E. A drift since the
5th of eight and three fourths miles to N. 18° E. At
six p. m. the ice commenced to open about two miles
west of the ship, and by nine P. M. the opening had ex-
tended in an irregular curve around by north to north-
east, and the condensation caused a thick fog. The
water could be plainly seen from the deck-house about
two miles distant, the width of the opening varying
from a few feet to one hundred and fifty yards. At
midnight, however, the opening had closed and a small
one had occurred to the southward. The ship received
several severe shocks at midnight, presumably caused
by the floes coming together.

April 13lh, Wednesday. — Eighty-five and a half
fathoms, and a slight drift S. S. W. So we go north
one day, south the next, until man's patience and en-
durance almost give way. Is there never to be a
change ? Dull and gloomy weather, much fog, and
water-sky.

THE LAST OF THE JEAXXETTE. 535

April lith, Thursday. — An opening occurred in the
ice about five hundred yards ahead of the ship, and
extended in an irregular curve around her bows for
several miles. Bear-tracks were seen, and one seal
was brought in. As this is the time of full moon, the
question .again comes up are these ice openings due to
tidal action?

April 16th, Friday. — Eighty-two fathoms ; moder-
ate drift N. W. Latitude 75° 52' N., longitude 169° 56'
E., — adrift since the 12th of ten and three fourths
miles to N. 68° W. Evidently the slack water or slack
ice exists to the westward, for we go so readily that
way. Another dog dead, I am sorry to say. Dan,
the dog who obligingly furnished a tape-worm to our
collection, has departed this life, and we now mourn
his loss. By measurement to-day in the most accurate
manner, we find the ice to have attained a thickness of
eighty-four inches direct freezing since August 31,
1880.

April lQth, Saturday. — Evidently we have not got
over winter yet (minus 26°), and I must say it is a dis-
couraging realization. This is worse, by long odds, than
last year, and does not promise one half as much.

Eighty -four fathoms ; slight drift W. N. W. Latitude
75° 53' 30" N., longitude 169° 45' E., — drift since yes-
terday N. 53° W. three and one fourth miles. " West-
ward ho ! " and " Go West, young man ! " are clearly
applicable to us.

April 19th, Tuesday. — Occasionally we have some-
thing to excite us, but unfortunately it is not pleasura-
ble excitement. To-day the steward and cook started
off at 2.30 on their walking hunting exercise, but did
not come to time when the usual recall was hoisted at
five p. m. For one result, we in the cabin were for a

536 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

long while without supper. Finally, at 7.30 p. m., the
steward came back alone and greatly excited, his expla-
nation being such a confused account of bears, dogs,
cook, and guns as to bewilder us completely. When he
calmed clown, we managed to get at the following :
" He left the ship with the cook and one dog, went off
to the westward, and at one half mile distance saw a
fresh bear-track. While following it up, and going over
young ice six miles from the ship, saw Prince and Wolf
on a hummock ; then saw a bear. Steward fell clown
among some rough ice, and a piece fell on his back and
held him down, else he would have shot the bear(?).
The cook's gun would not go off. Cook got the ice off
steward's back, and helped him up. They both ran
three or four miles after the bear and dogs ; then saw
the bear again standing on a hummock and fighting
the dogs. Cook's dog came back upon being called.
Bear was too far off to shoot. Cook then said, ' It 's
about six or seven o'clock ; you go on board and cook
some supper.' So steward came back alone, while cook
kept on. Was out of sight of ship, but after coming
back one half mile got on hummock and saw a little bit
of mast, and so came in, seeing another (?) bear-track.
Knew he should not have disobeyed order about not
going out of sight of the ship, but thought he ought to
kill that bear and save the dogs." Of course, I was
anxious now about the cook. To send to look for him
was like looking for a needle in a haystack. No direc-
tion could be selected, because a bear chased by clogs,
chased by a cook, would no doubt be too much pressed
for time to adhere to a compass course, and as the wind
was blowing the surface snow along in low clouds every
print would soon be filled up. So nothing was left but
to wait. At midnight along came the cook with but

THE LAST OF THE JE ANNETTE. 537

one dog, and he was exhausted. I made him drink a
half tumbler of whiskey the first thing, and then ques-
tioned him ; but he was so excited, or tired, or fright-
ened that he immediately commenced to cry, and I
packed him off to bed.

"When he became calm, his story agreed with the
steward's, and supplied the following additional details:
He found a seal, which the bear had been eating, mi-
nus its head and shoulders. The bear and dogs would
fight every now and then, and the dogs were bleeding.
Thinks he went fifteen (?) miles away in chase before
he gave it up. Prince and Wolf were still following
the bear when he saw them last. Cook tried to drag
the seal in, but was too fatigued, and had to give it up.
Knew he should not have gone out of sight of the ship,
but felt he ought to get the dogs back.

So, as the case stands at midnight, two of our best
dogs — in fact, our two best dogs — are missing. Wolf
is barely discharged from the sick-list before he is again
on the war path. A very curious feature of the whole
business is that no one took these two dogs away with
him, and our assumption is that Prince and Wolf must
have seen or scented a bear, and have started off on
the hunt on their own account. Fortunately Tom, the
third of the gang, is not out of the hospital yet, and
seldom is let out of the deck-house, and never unac-
companied, or we might now be lamenting the loss of
three dogs instead of two.

April 20th, Wednesday. — Immediately after dinner,
Ericksen, Wilson, and Dressier, accompanied by dogs
Smike, Snooze r, and Kasmatka, started off on a search
for our missing dogs, but came back about 8.30 with no
success. They found the tracks and followed them
about ten miles, and, singular to say, the bear seemed

538 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

to have come down to a walk, with a dog on each side
of him. Possibly all three were so fatigued that they
had declared a temporary truce. I say the men fol-
lowed the tracks for ten miles, but double that distance
would be nearer the distance traveled. When they
started to return, they were as far as that in a straight
line from the ship. The ice at that point was all in
motion, grinding and groaning to a fearful extent, and
Ericksen, obeying orders, ran no risk of being cut off.
The tracks were still visible, showing that the bear and
his two satellites were continuing south. At 7.05 p. m.
the ship received a jar as if striking in going over a
submerged piece of ice.

April 21st, Thursday. — Latitude 76° 2! 34" N., lon-
gitude 167° 45' 30" E., — a drift since yesterday of ten
and one half miles to N. 53° W. My courage is all
aroused again, for if we go on now, as seems not im-
probable, we may accomplish something yet. A gale is
blowing from east all clay, and with no sign of a let up.
Soundings in eighty-one fathoms, and a rapid drift indi-
cated W. N. W. Herald Island is now 400 miles S. 43°
E. from us. I hope our two missing dogs have not gone
to look for us there.

April 25th, Monday. — A clear, bright clay, and I
am enabled to get good sights for position, with the
following result : Latitude 76° 19' N., longitude 164°
45' E. A drift of no less than forty-seven miles N.
69° W. since the 21st. This is the greatest drift we
have yet to record, and though 147 miles would be
more satisfactory I cannot complain, though I hope the
time is not far distant when 147 miles will be an ordi-
nary day's work.

So much theorizing has been done this cruise, that
one more theory will not be amiss, namely, that the

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 539

New Siberian Islands are acting as the breakwater or
stop to the regular onward flow of the ice. If we can
get well to the northward of their position we may
come to more water spaces, and have better chances of
navigation, and so work our way afloat. After such
long waiting we surely have earned some reward.

Soundings in thirty-five fathoms, rapid drift S. W. by
W. It is not very encouraging. E. N. E. to N. N. E.
represent our winds. A disgusting state of tempera-
ture for this time of year. At nine P. M. zero again
stared me in the face, and at midnight minus 6° was as
calmly registered as if it were a temperature to grow
roses in. What a country this is ! It would be difficult
to make anybody understand what a dreary waste of
ice surrounds us. We are so accustomed to it that its
monotony is its only disagreeable feature generally ;
but at times its wildness strikes deep into us. One can
go aloft and thus extend his horizon, but he only adds
to the amount of wild scenery. Nothing but ice, day
after day. Hummocks large and small, ridges high and
low, a rough, tumbled mass over which there is no path,
and through which there is no road, and in the centre
of the picture a poor little ship buried to her rails in
snow-drifts, — a stranger in a strange land, indeed ! As
day adds to day the sameness becomes wearing, and
after our long experience of it, it is perfectly mad-
dening. Sun above northern horizon at midnight.

April 2&th, Tuesday. — The most marvelous thing
to-day was the return of our dog Prince at six A. m.,
very thin, and evidently exhausted. He has been gone
within a few hours of a week. What has become of
his companion Wolf, we know not ; though, if Prince
could speak, no doubt he would tell us a story of ad-
venture and suffering. Our presumption is that Wolf

540 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

was badly hurt by the bear, and that Prince stayed by
him until he died. It would not surprise us, however,
to see Wolf come straggling along yet, but judging by
Prince's condition he had better not defer his arrival
much longer.

April 27th, Wednesday. — For the first time we get
some diatoms in our Sands cup, and of the order cos-
cinodiscus. As these things are supposed to be a river
growth, it is fair to presume that we have just come
within the area of the deposits from the Kolyma River.
Let us then hope for something from the much lauded
velocity of the spring freshets of Siberian rivers, for
that is about the only Arctic theory that we have not
exploded.

April oOth, Saturday. — Ice found to be seven feet
six inches in thickness, direct freezing since August
31, 1880.

May 1st, Sunday. — The month of May enters prom-
isingly, indeed, — a temperature of minus 2° being a
cheerful indication of future spring ; for I suppose I am
not very far wrong if I consider we are yet enjoying
winter. At five P. M. we got a sharp shock under the
stern, and soon after we found the ice open about one
hundred and eighty yards from the ship, and running
in an irregular bow-and-quarter line as far as we could
see it through the rough ice. It gave a chance for
Chipp to make some interesting measures of ice thick-
ness which I put in my general items book.

May 2d, Monday. — Surely in no other place in the
world north of the Equator have I heard of a temper-
ature of minus 10° on the 2d day of May.

May 3d, Tuesday. — In a little book called " Rein-
deer, Dogs, and Snowshoes," there is a remark that in
Siberia there is no spring — the transition from winter

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 541

to summer being abrupt. We must be having Sibe-
rian weather, for how else can we account for a tem-
perature of minus 12° on the 3d day of May? Our
men to-day were at work clearing away the snow-
banks surrounding us. The drifts have almost buried
us. and we are anxious to see our black sides once
more. Shall we ever see them above the surface of an
open ocean again?

May, ith, Wednesday. — A flock of ten wild geese
were seen flying west this morning, and some ducks
also flying in the same direction in the afternoon.

May 5th, Thursday. — The pleasantest thing I have
had to record for some time is an occurrence of to-
day — the capture of a bear. This morning, while the
men were out on their usual walking and hunting ex-
ercise, Wilson and others saw a bear about a mile ahead
of the ship, and our fine dog Prince at once made for
him and seized him by the hind leg. Bruin promptly
wheeled to confront his assailant, when, according to
Ericksen, Prince shot ahead of him cutting off his line
of retreat until Wilson, one hundred yards distant, got
a bullet in that dropped him. A splendid shot, and a
piece of great good luck for us. Weight 790 pounds ;
his stomach was empty but for one tobacco quid picked
up on his way.

May Qth, Friday. — At one and four A. m. the ship
received some severe shocks, and in the forenoon, when
we came to look around, we found that the lead, one
hundred and eighty yards off, had partially closed ;
that a crack extended ahead in line with the keel ; one
from our starboard quarter toward the one hundred
and eighty yard lead, and several between the bow and
beam on the starboard side. Not of importance any
of them, unless as indicating a future line of opening.
A flock of ducks flying west seen to-day.

542 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

May 7 th, Saturday. — Brisk east wind. The only
effect seen resulting from this brisk wind was a re-
opening of the one hundred and eighty yard lead and
some water spaces a mile on the starboard bow and
astern.

May 9th, Monday. — A pleasant figure in tempera-
ture at all events. Maximum plus 17°. Soundings in
thirty-seven fathoms ; no drift. Light E. S. E. breeze.
And still the days succeed each other, and no signs
of a change. Twenty months of this imprisonment is
monotonous indeed.

If our poor clogs could talk they would most likely
express their astonishment at the small amount and
great variety of food offered them for consumption. It
is not only a surprising but a wonderful matter that
we have kept them alive so long. Fish was very ac-
ceptable while it lasted ; pressed scraps (horse flesh,
etc.) not so good, but yet not to be despised ; and seal
and walrus meat were excellent substitutes. But it is
over a year since we have seen a walrus, and such few
seals as we have caught since last summer have been
reserved for our own eating. The entrails of our few
captured bears were but a hasty lunch, hardly worth
mentioning. For a long time, therefore, our dogs have
been on short commons. Condemned oatmeal was
given them while any was on hand ; then condemned
corn meal and suet ; then spare corn meal from natu-
ralist's stores, with suet added ; and we are now about
to try desiccated potatoes and suet. No doubt they
think, " Well ! what next ? "

May 11th, Wednesday. — One uncomfortable result
of the high temperature is making itself apparent,
namely, a thaw within the cabin. The accumulation
of frost in the window-pockets, and more particularly

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 543

between the ceiling and bulwark, is melting slowly
but steadily, and as the ship has a list of 2° to port,
several little streams trickle out from the water-ways
in my room and from under the chart drawers, and
make unpleasant little puddles. If dried up as soon as
they are seen no great inconvenience results ; but if
not earlier attended to they spread and find their way
down below through the ventilating holes bored in the
deck, or in some cases, as I am sorry to see, through
the deck seams. I do not think that such was the case
last spring.

I frequently wonder how long a body of men could
stand this enforced monotony of existence without giv-
ing up altogether. There is no way of solving the
problem except by our own experience, for we have
had a greater amount of it thus far than any others on
record. My own sensations are those of unmitigated
disgust, and I suppose the sensations of others are
similar to my own. I do not care to commit to paper
even my own ideas and feelings. The probabilities are
that I shall never forget them, and that hereafter they
will be pushing themselves to the front of my mind in
spite of my efforts to keep them back.

May lZth, Friday. — To-day I observed Aneguin
cutting up a curious looking thing like a block of
pasteboard for our dogs, which were standing around
expectantly. Upon asking him what it was, he replied,
"Pie." "What?" said I, wonderingly. " Pie," said
he. Curious to know how pie ever came in that shape,
I examined carefully a package, and just managed to
decipher the word " pumpkin," and, of course, at once
knew it was a condemned package of dried pumpkin.
As Aneguin has eaten pumpkin pie on board, he at
once gave the name of pie to the vegetable itself, and

544 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

as " pie," therefore, it was served out to the dogs, no
doubt to their admiration of man's ingenuity in finding
food for them.

Alexey's case still hangs on curiously enough. The
ulcer in his leg heals very stubbornly, and does not
look healthy in healing. Otherwise he is in excellent
condition, eats well, sleeps well, looks well, and feels
well, and has no more scorbutic symptoms otherwise
than I have (who have none at all). Bright and cheer-
ful is he also, and save for this stubborn ulcer would be
on duty as before.

May 14th, Saturday. — A flock of eider ducks seen
flying west during the forenoon. An almost contin-
uous snow-fall to still further enliven us.

May 15th, Sunday. — At last there seems to be a dis-
position on the part of the weather to grow warmer,
and it is high time. Full moon occurred on the 13th,
and we have been accustomed to have our coldest
weather at that phase.

Inspection and divine service as usual.

May lQth, Monday. — Land ! There is something
then besides ice in this world. About seven o'clock
this evening Mr. Dunbar, who usually winds his way
aloft several times a clay, could hardly believe his eyes
when they rested on an island to the westward. He
called Chipp to look at it, and Chipp saw it was land
sure enough, and sent Ericksen to inform me. I had
just finished working out our position when the ex-
traordinary news came, and was writing out the result :
Latitude 76° 43' 20" N., longitude 161° 53' 45" E., a
drift since the 14th of five and a half miles to N.
16° E. Of course I dropped my books and ran up to
the fore yard, and there, sure enough, I saw a small
island one half point forward of our starboard beam,

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 545

the first land that has greeted our eyes since March
24, 1880, nearly fourteen months ago. And our voy-
age, thank God, is not a perfect blank, for here we
have discovered something, however small it may be.
Some fog is resting over it, and to the right hand or
northward of it, and we do not think we see all of our
wonderful landfall. Bearings I take at once, and find
our island bears S. 78° 45' W. (magnetic), or (the va-
riation being 18° E.) N. 83° 15' W. (true), but we
can do nothing more. Its distance we cannot esti-
mate. If low land comparatively, it may be forty
miles distant (see our idea of Herald Island's distance),
and if high land seventy to eighty miles. But after
a number of days, if we change the bearing of it to
some extent, I can compute its distance, and deter-
mine if, and in what manner, we can land upon and
take possession of and explore our discovery. Cooped
up as we have been for over twenty months, we shall
enjoy getting our foot on solid earth or stone as much
as if it were Central Park, for it will be a change. But
whether it will be earth or stone we do not know of
course. What this poor desolate island, standing among
icy wastes, may have to do in the economy of nature I
do not know, or in fact care. It is solid land, whether
of volcanic origin or otherwise, and will stand still long
enough to let a man" realize where he is. Moreover,
this must be the spot to which the ducks and geese
have been steadily flying, and if we can get some of
them for a change to our canned meats, what a treat !
And then bears must swarm on our island ! In fine,
this island is to us our all in all. We gaze at it, we
criticise it, we guess at its distance, we wish for a favor-
ing gale to drive us towards it, and no doubt we would
accept an assertion that it contained a gold mine which

35

546 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

would make us all as rich as the treasury without its
debts. I believe most of us look carefully at our island
before we go to bed, to make sure it has not melted
away. Fourteen months without anything to look at
but ice and sky, and twenty months drifting in the
pack, will make a little mass of volcanic rock like our
island as pleasing to the eye as an oasis in the desert.

Beside this stupendous island, the other events of the
day sink into insignificance.

May 17th, Tuesday. — Our island continues to be the
cynosure of all eyes, of course, and as the fog which
hung over it yesterday has disappeared to-day, we are
able to define its appearance better, the white portion
which the fog hid yesterday showing as a snowy slope
extending back to some distance. The shaded portions
seem to be rock, with clefts or gulleys in it, in which
snow has lodged. The highest and further corner
seems to be a volcano top. We are watching the land
anxiously enough, and getting our position by obser-
vations daily, but of course in one day we have not
altered bearings at all. That may be a question of
weeks, unless we have stiff winds. Sights to-day place
us in latitude N. 76° 43' 38", longitude E. 161° 42' 30",
— a drift since yesterday of two and one half miles
N. 83° W., or exactly towards the island.

Soundings forty-three fathoms (mud and pebbles), a
slight drift N. by E. being indicated by the lead line.
Temperature, maximum, 11.5° ; minimum, minus 5.5°.
What lovely Aveather for the middle of May !

May ISih, Wednesday. — Latitude N. 76° 44' 50", lon-
gitude E. 161° 30' 45". As we draw ahead of our island,
we open out quite a face to the northward, and Mr.
Dunbar is quite certain that he saw high land above
and beyond it to the westward. My repeated visits to

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 547

the crow's-nest show me a strong appearance of high
land, but I have not yet been able to say positively that
it is not cloud. At one time I thought I could see a
connecting snow-line, as if the upper part of our island
sloped backward and upward to a higher ridge beyond,
but I was unable to see a snow-peak that Mr. Dunbar
saw just before I could join him in the crow's-nest.
Weather generally clear, bright, and pleasant. An E.
wind freshening, and promising a stronger blow for to-
morrow.

The ice opened in a crack about five hundred yards
to the eastward of the ship, and came together toward
midnight, the ship receiving several slight shocks when
the ice edges met.

We are favored with an occasional dovekie (black
guillemot), shot by some of our people, the luckless
bird being attracted by the little lanes and cracks in the
ice near us instead of making for the island, where it
would be safe. Last Saturday we in the cabin had one
apiece for dinner, and I am in hopes of seeing enough
hanging to the main boom to have them for dinner fore
and aft next Saturday.

May 19th, Thursday. — E. S. E. wTinds make us move
along at a brisk rate, evidenced by our opening out our
island's north side. Centre of island bears W. (true).

At 9.30 A. m. the ice quietly opened seventy yards
from our starboard bow, and a lane of water about
twenty feet in width extended north and south for
about three miles, and several other cracks and lanes
were visible to the northwest. Whether when we get
to the westward of our island the ice will spread and
open remains to be seen ; but this lane is quite close
enough, unless we can use it for an advance. We have
a crack under our starboard counter that may connect,

548 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and a crack ahead in the line of our keel as a starter,
which may at any time leave our whole starboard side
bare.

May 20th, Friday. — Latitude 76° 52' 22" N., longi-
tude 161° 7' 45" E., — a drift since the 18th of nine
miles N. 35° W. As the island point observed on the
16th now bears S. 78° 30" W. (true), I can compute the
distance by the change in bearing, and the result is
twenty-four and three fifths miles (and thirty-four and
seven tenths miles on the 16th). The dimensions of it
I cannot accurately measure yet, though with an octant
I find it subtends an angle of 2° 10' on this bearing.
But from our point of view the island is foreshortened,
for I think its greatest length is in an east and west
direction. As we draw to the northward, we open out
the western face and shut in the eastern face corre-
spondingly, but I have taken the same point each time
for my bearing by the course indicator on the bridge.
There now seems to be a curious little island off the
western end, which looks like a mound with a beehive
on it, but I hope soon to be able to say whether it is a
separate island or a continuation of the first one.

Toward midnight a strong appearance of land was
seen bearing west by north roughly, like an inclined
plane, but clouds rested on so much of it that I cannot
speak positively.

Soundings in forty-two fathoms ; drift N. W. indi-
cated. At this rate we shall soon get to the shortest
distance from our island, which I locate by computation
of its distance before mentioned to be in latitude N. 76°
47' 28", longitude 159° 20' 45" E. E. S. E. gale seven-
teen to twenty-one miles an hour, and a pleasant tem-
perature plus 16°. At 8.30 A. m. the ship received a
blow under water, seemingly near the stern post, and
doubtless from some drifting, submerged ice-block.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 549

May 2\st, Saturday. — A dull, gloomy day, E. S. E.
gale, and I manage to get a meridian altitude, showing
that we have made seven miles in latitude at all events.
Our island appears only occasionally, but bearing S. 72°
W. There seems to be no immediate chance of this
blow abating, so it will be a question of waiting to see
in what position it leaves us before deciding upon our
ability to land upon and take possession of our island.

I am sorry to record the mysterious disappearance of
another of our dogs, generally known as Lauterbach,
and heretofore recognizable by his having a hairless tail,
the result of a scalding accident. He has gone and laid
himself away somewhere, for he has been missing sev-
eral days.

May 22d, Sunday. — At nine A. m. the ship received
another severe shock, probably striking ice under water.

May 23c?, Monday. — I am sorry to be obliged to re-
cord the addition of Chipp to our sick-list. For a long
time past he has been in poor condition, growing thin
and weak, but insisting on going about and attending
to his duty. He has strong dislikes to medicines and
medical treatment, and would not believe he stood in
need of either. Being overruled in that respect by me,
he did take a tonic prescribed by the doctor ; but of
course, as it wras taken unwillingly, under protest,, no
good was experienced from its use, and it was discontin-
ued. Now nature asserts itself, and he is so reduced,
by reason of his failure to eat enough, and so nervous
and restless, because of continued loss of sleep, that it
is simply impossible for him to keep up, and he is forced
to his bed. The doctor hopes to have him around in a
few days, but I am not satisfied that a few days can
repair the damage already done. Considerable fall of
soft, large snow-flakes.

550 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

May 2ith, Tuesday. — The first thing I heard upon
arising this morning was that more land was in sight,
and the next thing was that the ice was very slack,
with many large lanes of water. The strong appear-
ance of land on the 20th, towards midnight, proves to
have been land in reality, — another island being added
to our discoveries, somewhat longer (if not less distant)
than our first named. Upon going up to the crow's-
nest I had a good view of both islands and of more
water than we have seen since September, 1879. In
consequence of the subsidence of the wind, the ice has

■■■■'J«;<^'^M&'^s't:-

Jeannette Island. From a Sketch by Mr. Melville.

become very slack, and numerous long openings or
lanes have occurred, varying in width from twenty to
one hundred feet, and in length from one eighth mile
to three miles. Unfortunately for purposes of naviga-
tion they are not connected, and though having a gen-
eral northwest and southeast direction, do not lead to
anything. Just at this moment I would be contented
if by any means I could get the ship into one of these
islands for a temporary breathing spell, and a chance
to get some game for our supplies; but, unfortunately,
I cannot saw through thirty miles of ice or blast that
amount out of my way. The lanes of water are very
tantalizing, for they indicate what might be done if

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE.

551

there were more of them. They
seem to be in our neighborhood
only, or within a radius of five miles,
while the islands are thirty, and say
forty miles off, — and from that five
miles radius to the islands the ice is
as close and compact as ever.

However, we made all the use we
could of the openings. The iron din-
gy, the two kyacks, and the oumi-
ack were put into requisition, and
away went parties to hunt for birds
and seals, dragging the boats from
one lead to another, as occasion re-
quired. And while a party of men
were thus employed in transporting
the oumiack on their shoulders she
slipped, and brought so much weight
on John Lauterbach (a coal heaver)
as to double him up and severely
strain his back.

" It never rains but it pours," is
an old saying, and it seems to be
proven in our case, for hardly had
we prepared ourselves to take care
of Chipp when we have another case,
Lauterbach. When I sawr him being
supported back to the ship by a ship-
mate, I was afraid he had shot him-
self, or had been shot by a compan-
ion,— accidentally, of course, in both
cases, — and I ran out to meet him
with considerable alarm. For some
time it was impossible to find out
what was the matter, for the man

552 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

was in great pain and unable to talk. However, be-
yond a severe wrench to the small of his back, there
was no injury inflicted, and except for his being laid up
for some days no serious consequences are to be antici-
pated.

Now for the land. It is an island beyond doubt; and
its nearest point, which I take to be its southern ex-
tremity, bears S. 69° 30' W., and it subtends an angle
of 3° 35', while our first discovery's eastern end bears
S. 17° W., and subtends an angle of 2° 42'. I think
both islands extend in a west by north and east by
south direction. Computation of the position of our
first island, from our change of its bearing of the 20th
and 24th, would put it more accurately in latitude N.
76° 48', longitude E. 159° ; and until I can get its bear-
ing due south (true), this bearing of to-day and the
20th are more nearly accurate as to longitude than
those of the 16th and 20th.

Latitude N. 77° 16', longitude E. 159° 33' 30". A drift
since the 20th of thirty-two and one half miles N. 41°
W. This is progress indeed, — eight miles a day. Con-
sidering that we commenced the year in latitude 73° 48',
longitude E. 177° 32', we have no reason to complain
at the long step we have made, — 310 miles N. 47° W.

Soundings in forty and one half fathoms, and tem-
perature comparatively cheerful, plus 27°.

Our engineer's force are occupied in putting together
the windmill pump and getting it ready for the sum-
mer's work. Chipp is still quite weak, and in conse-
quence obliged to keep his bed. I have taken every
precaution to keep his surroundings as quiet as possible,
muffling chair legs, not striking the ship's bell, etc., and
he has had a peaceful day in consequence.

May 26th, Wednesday. — Our invalids are progress-

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 553

ing slowly. Chipp is still very weak, and obliged to
keep his bed altogether by the surgeon's orders, as a
surety for rest and quiet. DanenhowTer is just the same,
but as he caught a cold some days ago, he is forced to
stay below at all times, except at meal hours. Lauter-
bach is better, though his back will feel the wrench it
received for some days. Alexey is slowly getting his
leg to heal, there being now but a very small hole open.
Otherwise, we are all as well as usual, and all hands arc
certainly free from scorbutic taint.

Many of our lanes are found closed to-day, the ice
having come together during the night. A light film,
say one eighth of an inch of ice, formed over the lanes
not disturbed. Our islands were in plain sight all day,
giving me a chance to get good bearings and angles,
which are sufficiently indicated by the sketches on the
preceding pages.

May 2Qth, Thursday. — A dull, gloomy day, with
overcast sky, and N. N. W. breezes puffing fitfully.
The islands were invisible until six p. m., when they
came out from the dull, thick haze. The ice seemed to
slack up again to-day, numerous unconnected lanes and
ponds showing themselves, but of no use to us yet.
Took advantage of the breeze to make the windmill do
all the pumping after noon, to the relief of the men on
watch, who must have learned to hate the hand-pumps
many months since.

May 27ih, Friday. — Latitude 77° 14' 45" N., longitude
159° 16' E. A drift since the 25th of five miles S. W.
This brings us much nearer our second island, and it is
very tantalizing to be gazing at what seems a fine bay
and not be able to sail into it. Soundings in thirty-nine
fathoms, slight drift S. W. On account of light winds
had to close the water gates again and fall back upon
hand pumping.

554 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

May 2Sth, Saturday. — Soundings forty fathoms, and
the state of the temperature is by no means pleasant,
maximum 19°, minimum 15°. Our invalids give me
the usual anxiety. Chipp is very weak, and I fear it
will take a long time to build him up. Danenhower,
of course, will be of no use so long as he is in the
ship. Alexey slowly recovers. Lauterbach is improv-
ing, his back slowly recovering from the strain. But
with many things crowding in on me I almost feel that
the crucial moment in our voyage is at hand.

May 29th, Sunday. — We get considerable work out
of the windmill to-day, and our men are consequently
relieved from the endless clang -clang of the hand-
pump. Our dull and gloomy weather continues, to my
disappointment, for I can get no observations for posi-
tion. These are particularly desirable now, because I
want to fix the position of Henrietta Island. It is very
difficult to get good bearings from deck of anything,
because the ice-hummocks and ridges are so high and
so continuous that it is only here and there that we can
see even the plainest land ; and then it looks so much
like the black spots in the ice, that when .one puts his
eye down to the sight-vane of the compass, he is as
apt to take the bearing of a black spot as of the land.
Besides, we cannot see extreme points from the land.
Angling with a sextant from aloft is cold wrork, and
some points show too faintly to get a reflection, so that
though I have measured angles several times, I have
only recorded them when I have been sure of them.

We were startled this afternoon by an enormous flock
of ducks, estimated to be five hundred in number —
more than any one had ever seen before — flying quite
low, and heading to the northward, where I suppose
there must be more land. Our dogs took after them in
a body, until stopped by water, and turned back.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 555

The ice seems to be very close again, an easterly
breeze setting it in motion enough to press against the
islands and close all lanes.

Inspection and divine service as usual on Sundays.

May oOth, Monday. — I have decided to send a party
to try to make a landing on Henrietta Island. Tired of
waiting for a chance to get observations to determine
its position, I accept twelve miles as its probable dis-
tance southwest and a half west, true. Though I know
the traveling will be heavy, I hope that by sending
two officers, four men, fifteen dogs, with a sled and
light dingy (for ferriage), and seven days' provisions,
as the only heavy weights, they will be able to accom-
plish my object, — landing, leaving a record of our con-
dition, and perhaps bringing back a good supply of
birds. Having but one commissioned officer available,
Melville, he must take charge of the party. With
Chipp and Danenhower both on the sick-list, they can
neither be sent, nor left in charge of the ship if I go
myself, as is my strong desire. The doctor cannot go,
for his steady sick-list puts him hors concoitrs, and my
responsibility for the ship and the safety of all hands
will not permit me to leave her in charge of Mr. Dun-
bar, the only sailor man in the cabin besides myself fit
for duty. Consequently I make out orders for Mr.
Melville to go in command, and to take Mr. Dunbar,
Ninclemann, Ericksen, Bartlett, and Sharvell with him,
and to start to-morrow morning. The weather con-
tinues good, with light winds, and barometer rising
to 30, and I think we are drawing in toward the
island all the time with the ship. Such arrangements
as I have made for them and their return I will write
out in full to-morrow. To-clay I had Sweetman remove
the porch from the starboard side of the galley, and I

556 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

set the men to work digging a trench around the ship.
We are now beginning to be straitened for dog food ;
all our condemned meats, fish, and other suitable arti-
cles are ended. Having tried the dogs upon every-
thing to their seeming satisfaction, we at last tried them
with potatoes (desiccated). But here was the dividing
line. They turned up their noses and walked away in
disgust, and no matter how great their hunger, they
cannot be induced to astonish their stomachs with such
an excellent (?) anti-scorbutic' In fine, something else
had to be done, and so I ordered one half pound English
pemmican, and one half pound corn meal to be served
out to every dog every second clay from the ship's
stores ; and in order that no more of such precious food
than was absolutely necessary should be expended for
dogs, I gave orders that three old and worn-out dogs
should be quietly removed from the ship and shot. Of
course I regret taking even a dog's life, but where it is
a question of sentiment only in putting priceless food
into a dog, from which no work can ever be obtained,
the sentiment cannot be tolerated.

May 31s/, Tuesday. — At nine a. m., everything be-
ing ready, the sledge party, in charge of Melville,
started. Mr. Dunbar, Nindemann, Ericksen, Bar tie tt,
and Sharvell composed the personnel, and the following
the material : —

15 dogs, 6 sleeping-bags,

42 lbs. American pemmican, 10^ lbs. sardines,

21 lbs. pigs' feet, 42 lbs. mutton-broth,

42 oz. lime juice, b\ lbs. coffee,

1 McClintock sled, 2§ lbs. tea,

1 McClintock dingy, 5^ lbs. chocolate,

1 tent, . 10£ lbs. sugar,

5 tent-poles, 2 rubber blankets,

210 lbs. English pemmican, 6 packed knapsacks,

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 557

42 lbs. bread, 2 rifles,

1 cooking-stove and mess gear, 2 shot-guns,
sextant, artificial horizon, prismatic compass, opera-glass, en-
sign, medicine, etc.

We all assembled on the ice, and of course cheers
were exchanged. Away they went merrily enough
until they came to an ice opening, where they were
obliged to make a ferriage. Here some of their clogs
ran away and returned to the ship, but I sent them
back at once, and followed up the sled until they made
a new departure. I watched them frequently from the
crow's-nest, and at six p. m. I saw them about five miles
from the ship, evidently halting for a rest. Of course
I sent lime juice, and moreover I started them with
eleven gallons fresh water; and besides having Dr.
Ambler prepare medical advice and suggestions, I di-
rected Melville frequently to rest his party, to look out
for snow-blindness, and to avoid using surface snow and
floe ice. Should the distilled water give out during the
trip to the island, he was directed to scrape the broken-
down crystals from the tops of old hummocks. From
the moment of his departure, a large black flag eleven
feet six inches square was to be kept flying at the
main, and he was frequently to take bearings of it.
Should it shut in thick after he had been away forty-
eight hours, one of the whale guns or the brass piece
will be fired every four hours ; and in clear, bright
weather, from and after the third noon from his depar-
ture, a fire of some material, giving plenty of smoke,
will be made at meridian. He is not to remain at the
island more than twenty-four hours, and is to do as
much as he can in carrying out my written orders.

Of course there is some risk in this trip. But the
weather remains good, light northerly winds prevail,

558 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and our drift seems to be directly towards the island.
I want to know whether there is any bay in which I
can place the ship, and perhaps remedy her leak ;
whether there is any animal or bird life with which I
can replenish our waning stock of provisions ; and
whether, in the event of disaster, we can fall back upon
this island as a place to live, and make a fresh depar-
ture for the Siberian coast ; whether there is any more
land in sight from its summit; and very particularly
wrhat is the appearance of the world beyond, whether
interminable ice or a chance of water. Should the ice
break up around us, I want to know what are the pros-
pects; and so much knowledge can be gained by this
visit, as well as the satisfaction of planting our flag upon
a newly discovered piece of the earth, that I think the
risk of undertaking the journey is justified. During
the afternoon, when the weather cleared up, I got good
bearings, and I find Jeannette Island on our port bow
(S. 11° E. true) and Henrietta Island on our starboard
bow (S. 51° W. true), verifying my belief that we are
drifting toward the latter island, and heading; between
the two. My anxiety will be endless and unremitting
until I get all hands under my wing again ; and I pray
God so to aid them and guide us that no mishap may
occur.

Soundings in thirty-nine fathoms ; slight drift S. S. W.,
and a low temperature to close our month — 9°. Lau-
terbach restored to duty from sickness.

June 1st, Wednesday. — What next ? The doctor in-
forms me this morning that he is of opinion that sev-
eral of our party under his treatment are suffering
from lead poisoning. Newcomb is quite under the
weather with severe colic, and Kuehne is about the
same. Alexey is complaining in a similar manner, and

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 559

our steward is very ill indeed. The doctor says he is a
little disturbed also, and Chipp has had a sharp touch of
it. No less than six people, and the sledge party yet
to hear from. Suspicion was first directed to the wa-
ter, for as all joints about the distiller are red leaded
to make them tight, we fear that some of the lead was
carried over with the steam and deposited in the re-
ceiver. This, unfortunately, cannot be entirety avoided,
though it may be reduced. Then I examined all ves-
sels in which drinking water is carried or tea and cof-
fee made, and I put out of commission all having any
solder patches, substituting iron vessels lined with
porcelain. But upon examining our tomatoes, they
were found to show traces of lead in larger amounts
than the water, and the doctor thinks that the distem-
per, if I may so call it, is due to our large consumption
of that vegetable. The acid of the tomato acts chem-
ically upon the solder used in the tins, and the danger-
ous mixture is formed ; and since we have had tomatoes
every day for dinner subsequent to May 4th, it is as-
sumed that we have become largely dosed with lead,
and some of us have had to succumb. Inasmuch as we
all eat tomatoes, the exemption of the majority is due
to their greater capacity for lead, I suppose, for no good
reason presents itself to my mind. It has transpired
that the steward, who is the worst case, is remarkably
fond of this vegetable, and eats of it unsparingly. Of
course we have eaten tomatoes four times a week ever
since our commissioning, and until May 4th, without
any bad result, but that does not prove anything. A
very interesting question here comes in. Our canned
fruits have, I believe, similar chemical action upon the
lead soldering, and no doubt we are absorbing more or
less lead all the time. Now does this chemical action

560 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

begin at once or at the end of two years ? A very im-
portant question to an Arctic expedition, for of what
use is it to secure exemption from scurvy for two years
if disabling lead poison finishes you in the third year ?
The doctor says each severe attack may be mitigated
by medicine, but a continued absorption of the lead
will produce palsy, and that would certainly be a per-
plexing disease to deal with in an Arctic ship. If the
chemical action begins as soon as the tomato is canned
one is in danger at all times. However, as we stood
the vegetable four times a week, I order a return to
that issue to see what effect will be produced.

"We are certainly drawing in upon Henrietta Island,
and getting Jeannette Island well opened on the port
bow. Bearings to-clay : ship's head S. 10° W. (true) ;
east end Jeannette Island, S. 10° 30' E. ; south end
Henrietta Island, S. 51° W. ; north end, S. 57° W. ;
latitude 77° 16' 14" ; but I could get no time sight.

During the forenoon our traveling party were sighted
from aloft, apparently more than half way to the isl-
and.

Dull and gloomy weather ; temperature, maximum
15°, minimum 8°, — lovely for a June day. (Strawber-
ries will be late this year in these latitudes.) The ice
seems to have slacked up again, a wide opening occur-
ring about twenty yards west of the ship, and extend-
ing for a mile north northwest and south southeast.

June 2d, Thursday. — Henrietta Island has been in
sight all day and very plainly too, and I am very much
deceived if it is more than eight miles distant.

Our lead invalids are responding to treatment, the
steward more slowly than the rest, as his attack was
the most severe. I have had occasion heretofore to
note how naturally one of our two Chinese does the

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 561

work of both whenever one is sick, and I am not sur-
prised, therefore, to see the cook calmly cook for all
hands and look out for the cabin and ward-room, and
wait upon the table; and just now, with extra things
like arrow-root, beef-tea, etc., for the sick, and the
serving of one sick officer's meals in his room, he has
no easy time of it. But it is all done, and Ah Sam
nurses Charles Tong Sing meanwhile. My respect and
admiration for these two men are boundless. Every-
thing about the ice seems to have come to a stand
again. Ice has formed over all openings.

June od, Friday. — Nothing yet to be seen of Mel-
ville and his party. Taking all things into considera-
tion, I do not expect him before to-morrow night or
Sunday morning; but though neither of these times are
here yet, I cannot help the constant uneasiness which
I experience. Henrietta Island was in plain sight all
day, and we are assuredly closing in on it. Bearings
of the south end, S. 52° W. (true), and of the north
end S. 61° W. (true). I fix our position to-day in lati-
tude 77° 13' N., longitude 158° 12' E. ; and by the
change of bearing since May 24th I fix the south end
of the island in latitude 77.8° N., longitude 157° 43' E.,
and that makes it eight miles distant. Our drift since
May 25th has been S. 74° W. nineteen miles.

We discovered this morning that the ice under the
stern was domed up and cracked, and we came to the
conclusion that the ship was trying to rise in her bed.
To facilitate this operation, and to prevent too much
strain being brought on her keel which prolongs under
the rudder, the men were set to work digging away
the ice. It was a tough job, for it is as hard as flint,
and clings like an old and tried friend. Here and there
the mark of the fibre of the wood shows in the attached

36

562 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

ice, and in several places the oakum has been torn out
of the seams when the ship has been raised a little.

We rig our quarter deck pumps for an hour to-day,
and pump the ship out dry, getting up much of the
dirty water which has been stagnant all winter, and of
late has occasionally greeted our noses. By counting
the number of strokes of our pumps and computing the
work done, I find that our leak now amounts to 4,874
gallons a clay, or about 203 gallons an hour.

The steward has gone back to duty to-day, to our
great comfort. He seems quite recovered from his
share of lead. Chipp is, however, set back again by an
imprudent eating of raisins yesterday. Newcomb is ter-
ribly down in the mouth, and looks as woe-begone as
possible. He has suffered considerably. Curious that
so many of us feel no effects of " Lead in ours " as yet I
And we are all on the same diet. I hope none of the
traveling party have been afflicted, for assuredly they
have enough to do for wrell men.

June A.th, Saturday. — With one thing and another a
lively clay. As a fog shut everything in after three
p. m., I got our brass gun out and loaded it for a signal
to our traveling party should they be within range.
Before noon it was fairly clear and pleasant weather,
and at eleven a. M. I had a fire made on the ice ahead of
the ship, and with tar and oakum we made a good black
smoke for an hour. About two p. m. I heard a shot, and
going out to see about it I learned that a bear had come
up near the ship without being seen by the man on
watch (a bright lookout on Dressler's part), and when
Starr, who was astern, ran out to get a shot, his aim
was so disturbed by his breathlessness that he missed,
and away ran Bruin, Chase was given him, of course,
and he was fired at ; but alas ! our 600 pounds of fresh
meat escaped.

THE LAST OF THE JEANNETTE. 563

From Starr's account, he came up and looked at our
few remaining clogs, and they looked at him without
making a sign. Then Bruin walked to the nearest
clothes-pole, deliberately used it to scratch his back and
sides against, and then, seeing Starr, commenced to walk
away. As he heard the bullet sing he quickened his
pace to a run and (why prolong it) escaped. Our tar
smoke, no doubt, attracted him. Fired the guns at four
p. m. At eight p. m., with a good clearing, we could see
nothing of the sledge party.

June 5th, Sunday. — At six a. m., Manson, the man
on watch, informed me that the traveling party was in
sight. Going out on deck, I could see the silk flag here
and there appearing among the hummocks as the sled
advanced through the ice. I ordered our colors to be
shown, and the men to be turned out to receive the
travelers, and then hastening out on the ice tried to
fire the whale-gun as a signal to our people that they
were seen. After failing once or twice, I left the
gun in charge of the men who had come on deck, and
came on board. As I reached the mainmast I heard
a slight explosion, and, anxious to know whether it was
our gun or a shot from the returning party, I was rush-
ing up on the bridge, when crash ! I got a terrible blow
on the head. Forgetful of the windmill, in my anxiety
for the travelers, I had rushed up in time to get a blow
from one of its wings flying before a ten-mile wind.
Stunned and confused I crawled back, while the blood
sprinkled on the ladder and quarter deck, and the quar-
termaster ran toward me in alarm. Feeling that my
head must be cut, I called the steward to get me some
water in a basin, and when he came I told him to see
what was wrong. He looked at my head, and ex-
claimed, " Oh my ! great big hole ! " upon which I con-

564 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

eluded I wanted the doctor's opinion, loath as I was to
disturb him and add to his already great care and anx-
iety. When Dr. Ambler came up in the cabin, I learned
that I had my head cut open in a four-inch gash, etc.
Stitching and plastering followed, and then I resumed
my scrutiny of the returning party.

To my relief I could count six people, and all hands
seemingly had come to a halt. As soon as possible, I
sent out Mr. Cole and the starboard watch to meet them
and help them in. At 8.50 A. m. along came the sled,
drawn by the dogs and three of the six travelers. Mel-
ville and Sharvell had remained with the boat, and Mr.
Dunbar was carried part way and walked part way, and
reached the ship snow-blind. He was disabled at noon
on the third day out, and led or carried thenceforth.
Melville sent me the following message, on receipt of
which I sent the port watch in Sweetman's charge with
a spare sled, and, accompanied by the doctor, I went
forward shortly after. By 9.40 A. M. I had them all on
board, worn and tired, it is true, but no one disabled
but Mr. Dunbar.

Melville's message : —

10.30 A. M. I have just broken the sleigh runner, dis-
mounted my boat, and am in the midst of a heavy jam of ice.
Please send another sled at once. Landed on the island 5.10
P. M., third day out.

Respectfully, Melville.

To Lieutenant De Long, Commanding Jeannette.

The party landed on the island on Thursday, June
2d (Friday, June 3d), hoisted our silk flag, took pos-
session of the island in the name of the Great Jehovah
and the United States of America, and, agreeably to my
orders, named it Henrietta Island. They built a cairn
and placed within it the record which I sent with them,

THE LAST OF TOE JEANNETTE.

565

and made as much examination of the island and search
for vegetation as their limited stay would permit. The
island is a desolate rock, surmounted by a snow-cap,
which feeds several discharging glaciers on its east face.
Dovekies nesting in the face of the rock are the only
signs of game. A little moss, some grass, and a hand-
ful of rock were brought back as trophies. The cliffs
are inaccessible, because of their steepness. The ice
between the ship and the island is something frightful.

Drifting by Jeannette and Henrietta Islands.

Road-digging, ferrying, and its attendant loading and
unloading, arm-breaking hauls, and panic-stricken dogs
made their journey a terribly severe one. Near the
island the ice was all alive, and Melville left his boat
and supplies, and carrying only a day's provisions and
his instruments, at the risk of his life went through the
terrible mass, actually dragging the dogs, which from
fear refused to follow their human leaders. If this per-
sistence in landing upon this island, in spite of the su-
perhuman difficulties he encountered, is not reckoned a
brave and meritorious action, it will not be from any

566 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

failure on my part to make it known. I issued a gen-
eral order communicating the names and positions of
the two islands : Jeannette Island (our discovery of
May 16th), in latitude N. 76° 47', longitude E. 158° 56' ;
and Henrietta Island (our discovery of May 24th), in
latitude N. 77° 8', longitude E. 157° 43' ; and in the
evening I ordered a double ration of whiskey served
out forward. At ten a. m. I read the Articles of War
and inspected the ship, and at 1.30 p. M. I read divine
service.

Thank God, we have at least landed upon a newly
discovered part of this earth, and a perilous journey has
been accomplished without disaster. It was a great
risk, but it has resulted in some advantage.

Our sick-list now assumes quite a proportion. Chipp,
Danenhower, Newrcomb, Dunbar, Alexey, and, in addi-
tion, my head for a day or two. For one night, at all
events, the doctor insists I shall not go out to the ob-
servatory, lest I take cold in the cut and erysipelas en-
sue ; but as soon as I get over the stunned and dazed
sensations I have now I think I shall be as fit for work
as before.

June Qth, Monday. — While the ocean around us has
been alive all day we have remained perfectly calm
and undisturbed. This morning we found that such a
disruption of the ice-fields had occurred as to leave us
on the western side of a floe island, about one hundred
yards from its edge, and that the whole of the outside
ice was broken up into a terribly confused heap of roll-
ing, tumbling, and grinding floebergs, forcibly remind-
ing us of our experiences of November, 1879- We
were evidently in transit across the north face of Hen-
rietta Island, and bound westward ho !

Our ice-island was irregular in shape, with its longer

THE LAST OF THE JE ANNETTE. 567

diameter about a mile in extent, and its shorter di-
ameter about half that amount. Close to us we had
plenty of water, but it was in disconnected spots, and
we should have been infinitely worse off had we been
in one of them. No lead making toward Henrietta Isl-
and was to be seen, and in fact the changes going on
all over, except in our isolated spot, were so kaleido-
scopic that it would have been impossible to detect
such a lead if it had existed. Lanes and openings were
forming and closing during all the forenoon, and every
once in a while the sudden rearing up of some ridge of
broken floe pieces, twenty and thirty feet high, showed
where a lane had closed, or the sudden tumbling of a
mound showed where a lane was opening. In all this
confusion worse confounded we remained as quiet as
ever. We were moving along slowly and grandly, a
dignified figure in the midst of a howling wilderness.
Had our floe broken up and hurled us adrift we should
have had the liveliest time in our cruise, for to have
escaped destruction would have been a miracle, and to
have got anything or any person out of the ship in
case of accident an impossibility. One can hardly fall
back upon yawning chasms for launching boats or de-
positing provisions.

Over such ice as this Melville charged in for the land
on his late journey, and he tells me on one occasion,
while aiding Dunbar across a large hummock up-ended,
the ice opened beneath them, and the hummock sank
until they just escaped touching the water as they
sprawled out on the ice.

In anticipation of any accident or mishap I had the
steam-cutter hoisted, the kayak and the oumiak brought
aboard, and all other things which could not be grasped
at a moment's notice.

568 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Soundings in thirty-eight fathoms, muddy bottom.
Drift moderate to S. W. ; N. E. to E. winds, nine to
twelve miles an hour. Barometer 30.16 to 30.20.
Our observation of the rate at which we were drifting
was prevented by a dense fog, which hid the island
completely after three p. m. Of course I was more or
less anxious, not being sure that wre were not sweeping
down on the island instead of going by it; but as noth-
ing could be clone, we were forced to fall back upon
our long and too uncomfortably familiar resort, waiting
in blindness until we could see.

June 7th, Tuesday. — At ten a. m. the fog cleared
away for the first time since five p. M. yesterday, and
we saw the island right ahead (S. 80° W. true), and
about four miles distant. We were clearly in transit
across the north face of the island, and so steadily did
we move that it was easy to check our flying-jib stay
as it passed slowly from point to point. The confu-
sion worse confounded of yesterday was tranquillized,
though many ridges of piled up floe pieces between us
and Henrietta Island showed that the fight must have
gone on all night, as our fields ground and ploughed
their way along. Many of the large water spaces had
closed tightly, and the very large one which was on
the west side of our ice-island had disappeared. A
Ions; ridy^e of ice-slabs and blocks six and seven feet
thick had fenced us in on that side, showing where a
meeting had taken place and a crush had occurred, of
which wTe had been quite unconscious, though it was
only one hundred and fifty yards distant Consider-
able water-sky was visible to the southward and south-
west, and several unconnected lanes were to be seen in
those directions. The ice having passed the obstruction
caused by Henrietta Island had seemingly closed up

THE LAST OF THE JE ANNETTE. 569

again and resumed its accustomed drift N. W. In that
direction the ice extended in a limitless field. Sound-
ings in thirty-seven fathoms ; moderate drift W. ; E.
N. E. and E. winds prevailed all day from ten to four-
teen miles velocity, and from the general appearance
of things I am inclined to think we are going to have
a little blow.

I am intensely relieved that our traveling party had
no mishap. They started in just the best time and got
back none too soon. Sunday morning they were all on
board, and Monday we commenced our drift again. Of
course, with the fogs and our drifting, had they been
absent yesterday the chances of their safety would have
been seriously jeopardized. And now where next ?

June 8th, Wednesday. — By great good luck got
sights for position and determined it to be latitude N.
77° 14' 45", longitude E. 156° 41' 30", a drift since the
3d of twenty and a half miles N. 85° W. As we moved
so little while the sledge party was away, we have
probably made the most of this distance in the past
three days. Soundings in thirty-four and a half fath-
oms, a rapid drift W. S. W. being indicated by the lead
line ; lowered and hauled the dredge.

A little lane of water remains on what were the
north and east sides of our island, but otherwise the
ice-field seems as boundless as ever. We are leaving
Henrietta Island rapidly to the eastward of us, and be-
fore many days it may be lost to view. Inasmuch as
we have passed it already, one might call it a thing of
the past. (I am afraid that is a poor joke, but since
the windmill struck me I can do no better.)

Fresh E. N. E. breezes fifteen to seventeen miles an
hour. Barometer 30.11 to 30.14.

I am glad to say that Alexey was this day discharged

570 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

from the sick-list, though still kept under slight med-
ical attention.

June 9th, Thursday..— Latitude N. 77° 14' 20", longi-
tude E. 156° 7' 30", a drift since yesterday of seven and
three quarters miles S. 87° W. Soundings in thirty-
eight and a half fathoms. No perceptible drift. Clear,
bright, and pleasant weather, E. N. E. breezes fifteen
to eleven miles an hour, and barometer 30.13 to
30.25. At eleven p. m. the ship received several se-
vere jars. At 11.30 the old eighty-yard lead, or what
was left of it, opened to a width of ten feet, and at
midnight such a snapping and cracking took place
around us that I concluded we were in for a time, and
hastily bundling on my clothes I rushed out.

CHAPTER XII.

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND.
11— 25 June, 1881.

The Attack of the Ice on the Ship. — The Break across the Ship.

— Orders given to remove Provisions. — The Ship begins to fill.

— The Unloading. — The Ship sinks. — The Camp on the Ice. —
Preparations for Journey. — Loading of the Sleds. — Arrangement
of Camp. — The Sick-List. — Orders for the March. — Deposit of
Records. — The Start. — The Difficulties at the Outset. — Terrible
Roads. — The Heavy Loads. •— Snow and Rain. — The Cracks in
the Ice. — Ice Bridges and Ferries. — Fog. — The First Good
Day's Work. — The Daily Routine. — Papers hrought to Light. —
Doubts as to Locality. — Reconnaisance.

[Up to this time Captain De Long had kept his pri-
vate journal, in addition to the ship's log, and from that
journal the narrative has been taken. After abandon-
ing the ship he kept but one journal, and the pages
which follow are from that, with the exception of the
first entry, which is from the ship's log.]

June 10th, Friday, ship's date (June 11th, Saturday,

correct date). — At 12.10 a.m. the ice suddenly opened

alongside, and the ship righted to an even keel. Called

all hands at once, and brought in the few remaining

things on the ice. The ship settled down to her proper

bearings nearly, the draft being eight feet eleven inches

forward, and twelve feet five inches aft. A large block

of ice could be seen remaining under her keel. At the

first alarm the gate in the water-tight bulkhead for-
ts o

ward was closed, but the amount of water coining into

572 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

the ship was found to decrease, a small stream trickling
aft being all that could be seen.

There being many large spaces of water near us. and
the ice having a generally broken up appearance, it
was concluded to ship the rudder, to be ready for an
emergency awaiting the moving of the ship. After
some trouble in removing accumulations of ice around
the gudgeons the rudder was shipped, and everything
cleared away in the wake of the booms and yards for
making sail.

As well as could be judged by looking down through
the water under the counters, there was no injury
whatever to the after body of the ship. As soon as
possible a bow line and quarter line had been got out,
and the ship secured temporarily to the ice which re-
mained on her starboard side as nearly in the same
berth as she could be placed. By looking down through
the water alongside the stem on the port side, one of
the bow straps near her forefoot was seen to be sprung
off, but otherwise no damage could be detected. It
was assumed by me that the heavy ice which all along
bore heavily against the stem had held the plank ends
open at the garboarcls, and that as soon as the ship was
able to move from the heavy ice the wood ends came
together again, closing much of the opening and reduc-
ing the leak ; the water-line, or rather water-level, being
below the berth deck. No difficulty was anticipated in
keeping the ship afloat and navigating her to some port,
should she ever be liberated from the pack ice of the
Arctic Ocean.

Sounded in thirty- three fathoms, bottom mud. Rapid
drift W. S. W.

June 11th, Saturday, ship's date {June 12th, Sim-
day, correct elate). — At 7. 30 a. m. the ice commenced to

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND.

57:

move toward the port side, but after advancing a foot
or two came to rest. Employed one watch in hauling
heavy floe into a small canal on the port bow, to close
it up, and receive the greater part of the thrust.

The ice at ten a. m. had advanced toward the port
side until these floe pieces had received the thrust, and
everything quieted down again. The situation of the
ship and her surroundings may be seen below.

At four p. M. the ice
came down in great
force all along the port
side, jamming the ship
hard against the ice on
the starboard side of
her, and causing her to
heel 16° to starboard.
From the snapping and
cracking of the bunker
sides and starting in of

■ I .1 -\ •->• Position of the Ship before the final Crush.

the starboard ceiling,

as well as the opening of the seams in the ceiling to the
width of one and one fourth inches, it was feared that
the ship was about to be seriously endangered, and
orders were accordingly given to lower the starboard
boats, and haul them away from the ship to a safe po-
sition on the icefloe. This was done quietly and with-
out confusion. The ice, in coming in on the port side,
also had a movement toward the stern, and this last
movement not only raised her port bow, but buried the
starboard quarter, and jamming it and the stern against
the heavy ice, effectually prevented the ship rising to
pressure. Mr. Melville, while below in the engine-
room, saw a break across the ship in the wake of the
boilers and engines, showing that so solidly were the

574 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

stern and starboard quarters held by the ice that
the ship was breaking in two from the pressure up-
ward exerted on the port bow of the ship. The star-
board side of the ship was also evidently broken in,
because water was rising rapidly in the starboard coal
bunkers. Orders were now given to land one half of
the pemmican in the deck-house, and all the bread
which was on deck, and the sleds and dogs were like-
wise carried to a position of safety. At 4.30 there was
a lull in the pressure, and it was assumed for the mo-
ment that the ice had united under the ship, and being
as close together as it could come would occasion us no
further injury, and that we might be able to take care
of the ship yet. The ship was heeled 22° to starboard,
and was raised forward 4' 6", the entire port bow being
visible also to a height of 4' 6" from the forefoot. (In
the early morning we had been able to see through
the water down alongside the stem on the starboard
side, and we could see that the forefoot was bent to
starboard about a foot. This would indicate that the
pressure received on the 19th January, 1880, was from
port to starboard, instead of the other way, as we then
supposed.) But at five p. m. the pressure was re-
newed and continued with tremendous force, the ship
cracking in every part. The spar deck commenced to
buckle up, and the starboard side seemed again on the
point of coming in. Orders were now given to get
out provisions, clothing, bedding, ship's books, and
papers, and to remove all sick to a place of safety.
While engaged in this work another tremendous pres-
sure was received, and at six p. m. it was found that
the ship was beginning to fill. From that time forward
every effort was devoted to getting provisions, etc., on
the ice, and it was not desisted from until the water

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND.

577

had risen to the spar deck, the ship being heeled to
starboard about 30°. The entire starboard side of the
spar deck was submerged, the rail being under water,
and the water-line reaching to the hatch - coamings.
The starboard side was evidently broken in abreast of
the mainmast, and the ship was settling fast. Our en-
sign had been hoisted at the mizzen, and every prepa-
ration made for abandoning, and at eight p. m. every-
body was ordered to leave the ship. Assembling on
the floe, we dragged all our boats and provisions clear
of bad cracks, and prepared to camp down for the
night. Took an account of stock and found the fol-
io win 2* : —

4,950 lbs. pemmican, American,

75 bottles malt extract,

1,120 lbs. hard bread,

^ barrel lime juice,

260 gals, alcohol,

2,000 rounds Remington am-

100 lbs. cut loaf sugar,

munition,

400 lbs. extra crew sugar,

1 gal. whiskey,

100 lbs. tea,

1 gal. brandy,

94j lbs. mutton soup,

2 gals, whiskey,

176 lbs. mutton broth,

2 gals, whiskey in lime

150 lbs. Liebig's ext. beef,

juice,

252 lbs. canned chicken,

7 bottles brandy,

144 lbs. canned turkey,

First cutter,

36 lbs. green corn,

Second cutter,

12£ lbs. pigs' feet,

First whaleboat,

32 lbs. tongue,

Iron dingy,

42 lbs. onions,

McClintock dingy,

18 lbs. pickles,

6 tents,

120 lbs. chocolate,

Sleeping-bags,

36 lbs. cocoa,

33 knapsacks packed,

205 lbs. tobacco,

5 cooking-stoves,

48 lbs. veal,

3 boat sleds,

44 lbs. ham,

4 McClintock sleds,

150 lbs. cheese,

2 St. Michael's sleds,

210 lbs. ground coffee,

2 medicine chests and med-

60 lbs. whole coffee,

icine.

37

578 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

At midnight piped down.

June 12th, Sunday (or Monday, June lWi). — At
one a. m. were turned out by the ice opening in the
midst of our camp. Transported all our gear and be-
longings to a place of safety, and again piped down at
two a. m., leaving a man on watch. At one a. m. the
mizzen mast wrent by the board, and the ship was so
far heeled over that the lower yard-arms were resting
on the ice.

At three a. m. the ship had sunk until her smoke-
pipe top was nearly awash.

At four A. m. the Jeannette went down. First right-
ing to an even keel, she slowly sunk.

The maintop-mast fell by the board to starboard,
then the foretop-mast — and finally the mainmast, near
the main truss — when she finally sank; the foremast
was all that wTas standing.

At nine called all hands and breakfasted, after which
collected all the clothing, arranging it for distribution.
Beside the contents of the packed knapsacks, and the
clothing in wear, we find we have the following : —
28 over-shirts (woolen), 20 trousers (cloth),

24 drawers, 8 fur blankets,

27 under-shirts (woolen), 18 woolen blankets,

24 sack-coats, 13 skin parkies, —

8 overcoats,

and they were divided among all hands as required,
much of it being in excess.

Latitude 77° 14' 57" N., longitude 154° 58' 45" E.
Crew engaged in various occupations : getting sleds all
ready for boats, changing sleeping-bags. Everybody
seems bright and cheerful, with plenty to eat and plenty
of clothes. Even music is not forgotten. Lauterbach
serenaded us to-night with a mouth harmonica. Set up

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 579

a work-tent for my use. Kept silk flag flying. Wind
N. E. ; force, from two to three miles. Temperature
about 23° all clay. All visit wreck. Find one chair on
the ice, and some oars and spare planks. Set watch at
ten p. m. Chipp better. Danenhower lively. Alexey
" plenty good." At 9.45 p. m. read divine service.

June loth, Monday. — Called all hands at seven a. m.
Breakfast at eight. Turned to at nine and set to work
mounting first and second cutter and whaleboat on
their traveling sleds, and at the same time fitting pads
and bumpers for stretching under the bilges of the
boats, to prevent injury in case of heavy riding or tum-
bling off hummocks.

Such of the men as were not thus employed were set
to work making bags to hold bread, tea, coffee, and
sugar for our traveling rations. I have concluded to
remain where we are until all our preparations are well
made, and then to start properly.

We have provisions enough to live upon for some
time without impairing our sixty days' allowance for
going south. Our sick are progressing favorably, and
this delay will also tend to their advantage.

Sweetman visited the place where the ship sank, but
nothing could be seen but a signal-chest floating bottom
up. N. E. wind. Temperature at noon, 28°. Much
water-sky in all directions. Air very damp and raw.
We all slept very well last night, being both warm
and comfortable. Fog and clouds thick.

During the afternoon the boats were mounted on the
sleds and got ready for hauling. Between times, we
shifted camp further to the westward, as we were too
near the edge of the floe in case of accident. Placed
Chipp's tent to the rear and to windward, that he might
not be kept awake by the " snorers," as was the case last

580 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

night. Then moved all our boats to the front of the
tents, and the provisions to the front of the boats, and
had our supper in our new location.

We carried out of the ship all the drinking water we
had on hand, and made it last until Sunday night ; but
now we are, of course, down to what we can scrape up
from the ice. We select the oldest and highest hum-
mocks, and scrape off the broken down crystals when
we can find them, but of course the sun has not haJ
power enough yet to do any great amount of melting.

The snow, or rather ice, is fresh to the taste, but the
doctor, by a nitrate of silver test, finds it much too
salty. However, we cannot help ourselves, and must
with lime juice, which we take daily, try to avert the
danger. Just now we are living royally on good things,
and not working very hard, and we are in glorious
health, except for some occasional touches of the old
lead poisoning suspicion. Temperature at eight p. m.
18° and very damp. Wind N. E. At ten p. m. set the
watch and piped down.

June lith, Tuesday. — Called all hands at seven A. m.?
breakfasted and turned to by nine A. m. ; then set two
men from each tent, under Melville's direction, to get
together our sixty days' provisions, and to strip off all
wooden packages. The doctor, with one man, set to
work dividing up (and fortifying) the lime juice among
three water-breakers. Dunbar, with two men, over-
hauled and relashed the three McClintock sledges, to
get them ready for stowage and loading. The rest of
the men continued the work of making extra foot
nips, reducing sleeping-bags, and making such additions
to their comfort as were possible. Our sick-list is not
progressing favorably. Alexey was very sick all night
with stomach-ache, groaning all the time, and vomiting

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 581

violently at three A. m. Kuehne is quite sick, and both
he and Alexey are laid up in their sleeping-bags. Chipp
seems brighter, but as he did not get much sleep dur-
ing the night he cannot be said to have improved.

Weather clear, bright, and pleasant ; wind N. N. E. ;
temperature at ten a. m. 19° in the shade (minimum
during the night 12°). A few cloud-streaks, cirro-
stratus, to northward. To southward the openings in
the ice are shown by light masses of thin, bright fog,
sweeping away before the wind. Barometer, 30.37
at 33°, but I am a little suspicious that my pocket
barometer is out of order. Latitude by meridian al-
titude at noon, 77° 16'; temperature, 23° in the shade
(running to 30° in the sun). At four p. m. wind not
changed, and temperature 24° in the shade. Large
masses of fog and soft " steam " are continually rising
in all directions and sweeping away before the wind.
It would almost seem to indicate a general breaking up
of the ice.

Dinner at one p. M. Turned to at two, and immedi-
ately commenced loading up five sleds with provisions.
Divided our 3,960 pounds pemmican and 200 gallons
alcohol among the sleds, and then, having our weekly
ration-bags ready, we switched off to fill them.

The daily allowance of tea is . . 1 oz.

" " " coffee is . . . 2 oz.

" " " sugar is . . . 2 oz.

To get our weights exactly, we have to start on an
ounce weight and the doctor's scales, and work up by
a number of Remington cartridges to a pound. Two
empty meat tins tied to the end of a stick suspended
by its centre made our scale, and we rattled along our
weekly rations until supper time (seven p. m.) came.

Sights obtained at six p. m. -place us in longitude

582 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

153° 58' 45" E., — a drift since the 12th of thirteen
and one half miles N. 84° W. Thus far we are getting
along very well. Everybody is bright and cheerful,
and our camp has a lively look. Its arrangement is as
follows : —

^arCO

A

Plan of the Camp on the Ice.

A. Headquarters. B. De Long. QCEH*

C. Chipp. D. Melville.

E. Danenhower. F. Ambler. Ml >—

G, G, G. Boats. II, II, II, II. Sleds.

After supper no work was done, except putting two
rifles apart for each tent (ten in all), which are to be
carried in the boats — four in the first cutter, four in
the second cutter, and two in the whaleboat.

Wind at eight p. m. light N. N. E. Temperature 17°
shade. Piped down at ten p. m.

June 15th, Wednesday. — Called all hands at seven.
Breakfasted at eight. Turned to at nine. At eight wind
N. E. (mag.). Temperature, 23° shade. Weather dull,
gloomy, and foggy, but after ten A. m. it cleared away
to a bright, sunshiny day. The night has been cold,
the minimum pin showing 10°. I for one did not sleep
well, having found it impossible to keep my shoulders
covered by my sleeping-bag, but everybody else seems
to be all right and to have slept well.

The sick are as follows : Chipp is better, he says ;
has slept well, and feels bright. Danenhower goes

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND.

.83

around with his game eye darkened, and does a number
of things, but of course I can assign him to no regular
duty. Alexey has had a bad night, and is quite sick
this morning. Kuehne still remains shut up in his tent.
During the forenoon we were engaged in bagging as
much tea, coffee, and sugar as possible, and in dividing
the weights among our five sleds. This was completed
by eleven a. m., and we then set to work to lash and
secure the loads.

The distribution of weights was as follows : — ■

No. 1.

No. 2.

No. 3.

No. 4.

No. 5.

765 lbs. Pemmican.

720 P.

720 P.

720 P.

720 P.

40 gals. Alcohol.

40 A.

40 A.

40 A.

40 A.

36 lbs. Liebig.

36 L.

—

—

18 L.

61 lbs. C. L. Sugar.

—

—

—

61 S.

60 lbs. X. C. Sugar.

—

—

—

—

4 Bags Bread.

4B.

4 B.

4B.

2 B. Br.

30 lbs. G. Coffee.

30 Coffee.

—

30 R. Coff.

—

90 lbs. Tea.

—

—

60 G. Coff.

—

10 lbs. X. C. Sugar.

—

—

—

—

1,659 lbs.

1,318 lbs.

1,252 lbs.

1,342 lbs.

1,325 lbs.

On the ice yet 30 lbs. roast coffee, 30 lbs. ground
coffee, 1 bag bread, which must go in the boats.

Still short of sixty days' provisions, viz. : 315 lbs.
pemmican, 43 lbs. tea, 55 lbs. sugar, 37 lbs. coffee.

We are, of course, leaving behind us many provis-
ions, and our two dingys, as well as one St. Michael's
sled. As our progress will necessarily be slow, I am of
the opinion that each encampment for a week after our
start will be near enough to our present location to
enable us to send back a dog sledge each halt, to bring
forward our supplies for the succeeding twenty-four

584 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

hours. In this case we shall not break in upon our
packed sledges.

Dinner at one p. m., turn to at two p. m., sleds all
lashed; and I notice No. 2 (Chipp's) has a sled flag
already mounted with the name " Lizzie."

Upon calling Nindemann's attention to our having
none, he informed me that one was under way, and
that he should like to name it " Sylvie," to which I had
naturally no objection. Sights to-day place us in lati-
tude N. 77° 17', longitude E. 153° 42' 30". A drift
since yesterday of three and three fourths miles N.
70" W. Temperature at six p. m. 19°. Wind N. E.,
force 2.

During the afternoon I issued the following order : —

U. S. Cutter Jeanxette.
On the Ice, Lat. 77° 17' N., Long. 153° 42' E.
Arctic Ocean, June 15, 1881.

ORDER.

When a start is made to drag our sleds to the southward,
the clothing allowance for each officer and man will be limited
to what he actually wears and the contents of his packed
knapsack. Each may dress in skins or not as he pleases at
the start, but having made his choice, he must be ready to
abide by it. Extra outside clothing of any kind (except moc-
casins) cannot be taken. The contents of the j)acked knap-
sacks are to be as follows : —

2 pairs blanket nips, or duffle 1 skull-cap,

nips, 1 comforter,

2 pairs stockings, 1 pair snow spectacles,

1 pair moccasins, 1 plug tobacco,

1 cap, 1 pipe,

2 pairs mittens, 20 rounds ammunition,
1 undershirt, 24 wind matches.

1 pair drawers,

Soap, towels, thread and needles at discretion.

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 585

An extra pair of moccasins (making three pairs in all) with
its foot nips may be carried in the sleeping-bag, but nothing
else is to be put therein.

Each officer will see that the allowance is not exceeded in
any particular.

Sled No. 1. Stores, sleeping-bags, tents, knapsacks, and
mess-gear, in first cutter.

Sled No. 2. Ditto, ditto, in second cutter.
Sled No. 3. Ditto, ditto, in whaleboat.
Sled No. 4. Ditto, ditto, in second cutter.
Sled No. 5. Ditto, ditto, in whaleboat.
If at any time we go in the boats, —

Sled crew No. 1 goes in the first cutter.
" " " 2 " " " second cutter.
" " " 3 " " " whaleboat.
" " " 4 " " " first cutter.
Surgeon, Mr. Cole, and cabin steward in whaleboat.
Remainder of No. 5 in second cutter.

Further orders or modifications of the above will be given as
necessary. Very respectfully,

Geoege W. De Long,
Lieut. U. S. Navy, Commanding Arctic Expedition.

An almost cloudless sky, and, in consequence, a broil-
ing hot sun shining down on the floes makes us very
uncomfortable. We are all terribly sunburned, and our
noses, lips, and cheeks are beginning to get sore. Our
eyes are all right yet, however. A few cirro-stratus
streaks to southward and southwest, but I do not want
the wind from those directions until I can get to the
open water.

Supper at seven, lime juice at 8.15, and our customary
pipe down at ten.

June lQth, Thursday. — Called all hands at seven,
breakfasted at eight, turned to at nine. Engaged dur-
ing forenoon in making foot nips and making sure our
boat accessories were complete.

586

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

In anticipation of our sleeping-bags not being warm

enough, I ordered each officer and man to take a half

blanket also, to be stowed within the sleeping-bag. At

4.30 p. m. I started Mr. Dunbar ahead to the southward

to seek and make out a good road, and I then prepared

the following order : —

U. S. Cutter Jeannette.

On the Ice, Lat. N. 77° 18', Long. E. 153° 25'.

Arctic Ocean, June 16, 1881.

ORDER.

We shall start to the southward at six p. M. Friday, June
17th (Saturday, June 18th), and our traveling thereafter is to
be done between six P. M. and six A. M,

The order of advance will be as follows : —
1st. All hands drag the first cutter. Dogs drag the No. 1
sled.

2d. Starboard watch drag the second cutter. Port watch
drag the No. 4 sled. Dogs drag the No. 2 sled.

3d. Port watch drag the whaleboat. Starboard watch drag
the No. 3 sled. Dogs drag the No. 5 sled.

Alexey's three dogs will drag the St. Michael's sled. Kuehne,
Charles Tong Sing, and Alexey, to report to and accompany
Lieutenant Chipp.

The daily routine will be as follows : —

Call all hands 4.30 P. M.

Breakfast 5.00 "

Break camp 5.40 "

Under way ..... 6.00 "

Halt 11.30 "

Dinner Midnight.

Pack up 12.40 A. M.

Under way ..... 1.00 "

Halt, pitch camp 6.00 "

Lime juice 6.00 "

Supper 6.30 "

Set watch, pipe down, turn in . . 7.00 "

Course S. by E. one half E. (magnetic).

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 587

Before lighting any alcohol lamp, the stove is to be placed
in a hole in the snow to prevent loss of heat, and a passage
way cut to supply air for the flames. The cooks will be
changed every Saturday. They are to get meals as rapidly
as possible after each halt, going at once to St. Michael's sled
for alcohol, and to be sure that the alcohol tin is tightly
closed up before returning it. Particular care must be taken
in getting ice and snow for cooking. The tops of the highest
hummocks only must be used, and scraping is not to go more
than an inch below the surface. It will be the duty of the
man whose next turn comes to cook to collect the snow or ice,
and assist the cook of the week.

The work of unloading and reloading will be done by the
remainder of each sled crew. As long as it is possible to do
so, the St. Michael's sled will be sent back each morning to
bring up provisions now in this camp, in order that we may
not have to break in upon our sled stores. But when we do
commence upon our loaded provisions the following will be the
ration table: —

BREAKFAST. DINNER. SUPPER.

4 oz. pemmican, 8 oz. pemmican, 4 oz. pemmican,

1 oz. ham, 1 oz. Liebig, 1 oz. tongue,
3 pieces bread, \ oz. tea, \ oz. tea,

2 oz. coffee, | oz. sugar. § oz. sugar,

| oz. sugar. 1 oz. lime juice,

\ lb. bread.

Geo. W. De Long,
Lieut. U. S. Navy, Commanding Arctic Expedition.

During the afternoon the sleds and boats were each
supplied with their flags.

The first cutter Jeannette carries my silk flag.
The second cutter Hiram carries flag Hiram.
The whaleboat Rosey carries flag Rosey.
No. 1 sled carries square blue flag Sylvie. Motto, Nil des-
perandum.

No. 2 sled carries swallow-tail flag Lizzie.

588 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

No. 3 sled carries flag.

No. 4 sled carries white flag, red Maltese Cross. Motto,
In hoc signo vinces.

No. 5 sled carries flag Maud. Motto, Commeje trouve.

At eight took our lime juice. Then called all hands
to muster and read the foregoing order, after which we
hauled up the light clingy and left her alongside the
iron clingy. We are now, I believe, all ready, and
will start at six p. m. to-morrow. Loaded the St. Mi-
chael's sled with twenty gallons lime juice in two ten-
gallon breakers, ten gallons alcohol in whiskey keg, in-
strument box, medicine box, two demijohns whiskey,
five rubber bottles lime juice, surgical case, Winchester
rifle, and twelve cartridges in its magazine, box chro-
nometer Negus No. 1630.

Latitude N. 77° 18', longitude E. 153° 25' ; tempera-
ture 20°. Division of officers into watches : —

STARBOARD WATCH.

PORT WATCH.

De Long,

Chipp,

Danenhower,

Melville,

Ambler,

Dunbar,

Collins.

Newcomb.

Jane 11th, Friday. — Called all hands at seven.
Breakfasted at eight. Turned to at nine. Loaded up
our second St. Michael's sled with provisions and started
it ahead to our furthest guide-flag. Tightened up lash-
ings of all sleds, and put in soft wedges of wood be-
tween alcohol tins. Prepared one of our records to
leave in a water-breaker closed up, in case it is ever
picked up. (The dates are correct dates for our longi-
tude.)

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 589

U. S. Cutter J,eannette.

On theIce,Lat, N. 77° 18', Long. E. 153° 25'. .
llth June, 1881.

We break camp and start to the southward over the ice
to morrow evening, Saturday, June 18th, hoping with God's
blessing to reach the New Siberian Islands, and from there
make our way by boats to the coast of Siberia. The Jean-
nette was beset in the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean on the
5th day of September, 1879, about twenty-five miles east of
Herald Island, and between that date and the 12th day of
June, 1881, was drifted to the northwest, reaching, finally, lati-
tude N. 77° 15' and longitude E. 155° 0'. On the last named
date she was crushed by a coming together of heavy floes after
a slight opening in the ice, and sunk at four A. M., June 13th.
We had abandoned her and camped on the ice at eight P. M.,
June 12th, having saved about eighty days' provisions, five
boats, all tents, and other traveling gear, and more than
enough clothing, arms, and ammunition. Our party consists
of the following named persons, no death having occurred
since our leaving the United States [here comes a list of all
hands], and are all in fairly good health, no scurvy having
made its appearance in our midst. I say fairly good health,
because there are two officers (Lieutenant Chipp and Mas-
ter Danenhower) and three men (Alexey, Tong Sing, and
Kuehne) under the surgeon's charge for various debilitating
causes. We have discovered and named two islands, land-
ing upon the second one a party in charge of Mr. Melville ;
May 21, 1881, Jeannette Island, in latitude N. 76° 47', and
longitude E. 158° 56' ; and May 25, 1881, Henrietta Island, in
latitude N. 77° 8', longitude E. 157° 45'. Excepting these
islands we have seen nothing but ice since losing sight of
Herald Island in March, 1880. The ice in this ocean is of the
same character as that encountered north of Smith's Sound by
Captain Nares, and as the prevailing winds are from the south-
east this ancient ice moves slowly along to the northwest.
There are no currents which are not caused by the wind pre-
vailing at the time. Our lowest temperature in winter of
1879-80 was minus 56° Fahr., and in winter of 1880-81 mi-

590 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

nus 50°. Our highest temperature in summer 1880 was plus
46°, and thus far our highest has been plus 30°.

This month seems to be a cold one, — plus 20° to plus 25°, —
and I am inclined to think this will be a cold summer. There
has never been a time that we could move a ship's length since
our first besetment.

We have remained in camp since the loss of our ship in
order to pack our sledges, make all our arrangements for
proper traveling, and recruit our sick. We start with sixty
days' provisions, and besides ourselves we have twenty-three

dogs.

Geo. W. De Long,

Lieut. U. S. iV., Commanding American Arctic Expedition.

This I had carefully sewed in a piece of black rubber,
and placed it in an empty boat-breaker, which left on
the ice may get somewhere.

Dinner at noon. At one p. m. piped down, — all
hands lying down to get some sleep before starting.

At five p. m. called all hands again, and as soon as
possible had supper, or, as it ought to be called now,
breakfast. Broke camp at 5.50 p. m., and though six
was the time for starting it was 6.20 p. m. before we
got under way. All hands started with the first cutter,
while the dogs, managed by Aneguin, attempted the
No. 1 sled. The cutter went easily enough, but No. 1
sled was more than a match for our clogs. Occasion-
ally stopping, we lent a hand to start the sled from
a deep rut, and, finally, seeing the necessity of more
force, I detached six men from the cutter and went
back with them to help the No. 1 sled, and to this the
origin of our day's trouble may be referred. When I
sent Mr. Dunbar ahead yesterday it was to plant flags
for our first day's journey, and upon his return I could
see but three flags, and supposed there were no more.
Melville accordingly dumped the provisions at this third

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 591

flag, as the end of our clay's journey. Upon the cut-
ter reaching the third flag Melville wanted to stop,
but Dunbar informed him there was a fourth flag, and
that that was the end of the first day's journey. Of
course I could not be everywhere in a road one and a
half miles long ; and Melville, in his uncertainty about
my wishes, had to be guided by Dunbar's idea, so that
the first cutter, instead of halting by our provisions,
was carried on beyond them, to my extreme annoyance
when I learned of it.

Meanwhile the six men and myself went back to the
No. 1 sled, and by almost superhuman exertions got it
along a quarter of a mile, and then seeing Chipp and
the hospital sled hanging behind waiting for it, I sent
him ahead with the invalids to go after the first cutter.
The six men and myself then got the second cutter
and whaleboat along to where we had left No. 1 sled,
and while wondering what kept Melville and the men
away so long (they should have been back long since),
I saw that Chipp had come to a stand-still. Hastening
toward him I found that the ice had opened, and that
our remaining effects would have to be unloaded and
ferried over.

Here was a nice fix. Sending back at once for the
light dingy, I got Chipp and the hospital sled over, and
sent him on to hurry the cutter party back. Time
was slipping away, and all that the six men and myself
could do, with the assistance of the dogs, was to get
the second cutter and whaleboat, with No. 1 and No. 2
sleds, as far along as the ferry.

By ten p. m. the first cutter party returned, and we
at once launched the two remaining boats, hauled across
and got them upon the ice on the other side. To avoid
unloading the sleds, a road was sought and found higher

592 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

up, when, by filling in with some large pieces of ice, we
managed to get an uncertain way of crossing the open-
ing; lead. While so crossing; we doubled under the right

O o o

runner of No. 1 sled, and had to stop lest we should
ruin it No. 2 and No. 5 each broke a runner, the
tenons of the upright breaking short off. And in fine,
by the time we had crossed this lead, Saturday, June
18th, 12.10 A. M., we had three disabled sleds, were al-
ready an hour late for our dinner, had our provisions
half a mile further on, and the mess gear and sleep-
ing gear of No. 1 sled a half mile further still. How-
ever, there was no help for it. So, buckling to our two
boats we started on, and by 1.30 A. M. had reached the
black flag and our provisions. Here I ordered a halt
and dinner cooked. On the way back from the first
cutter the doctor had encountered Chipp and the in-
valids hobbling along pretty well exhausted, and after
administering a dose of whiskey to Chipp had recom-
mended him to stop at the third flag, where the pro-
visions were. But to make our confusion more com-
plete he had not clone so, but had continued on to the
first cutter. Hence I had to move all hands on to him
or bring him back to us. Deciding the latter to be
most feasible I sent Ericksen ahead with a dog sledge
to bring No. l's mess gear back, and with orders for
the invalids to come back riding upon the dog sled, if
they could not walk. (During the advance with the
first cutter Lauterbach had doubled up with cramps,
and was left where the cutter stopped in Newcomb's
charge. Lee frequently was falling clown also suffering
with cramps, for which we can assign no cause except
lead poison.) Well, I got all hands together by two
A. m. and at dinner, except No. 1 sled, which did not
get dinner until three A. m.

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 593

As soon as two, three, four, and five sled crews fin-
ished dinner, I sent Starr, Bartlett, and some clogs with
St. Michael's sled back to our old camp to bring for-
ward provisions ; and Mr. Cole, with the remainder of
our dogs ahead, to bring back hospital sled. And when
No. 1 finished dinner I took all remaining hands and
went back to the ferry, unloaded entirely our broken
sleds, and from the two sound ones removed everything
but pemmican awd alcohol ; and then, eight of us to each
sled, we dragged them up to our camp, reaching it by
six p. m. Cole, meanwhile, had arrived with the hos-
pital sled, and Ericksen took his dogs and went forward
for No. l's tent and sleeping gear. At seven we had
supper, and at eight a. m. set the watch, and piped down,
a weary lot of mortals. Weather all day overcast.

Temperature at eight p. m. 21°. Wind northeast.
Weather overcast, and very raw and damp. The fog
seems to penetrate to the bone. All hands seem bright
and cheerful. None of us are stiff after our hard work,
strange to say, and have slept splendidly. The sick
are as follows : Chipp used up about the legs ; has slept
some, but only in the early part of the day. Alexey,
better; steward, better; Kuehne, better.

Got up the first two sled loads, and one broken sled,
by 9.30 p. m., and immediately sent off the relief party
for two more sled loads. Sent Mr. Dunbar ahead to the
southward again to make out a road, and our first party
set to work repairing our sleds. Found to my un-
pleasant surprise that the whaleboat's sled was broken
in the after cross-pieces ; dismounted the boat and set
about repairs.

Our experience thus far in traveling has not been
very encouraging. We have had such terrific roads,
such soft and deep snow, and such ugly ice openings,

594 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

that our difficulties have been increased. The necessi-
ties of the case have led to overloading the sleds, and
though they would have gone well enough on smooth
ice, the snow Mrould stop these or any other sleds —
twenty-eight men and twenty-three dogs laying back
with all their strength could only start our sixteen
hundred pound sled a few feet each time ; and when
sliding down a hill it would plunge into a snow-bank,
it was terrible work getting it out. Though the tem-
perature was between 20° and 25° we were in our shirt-
sleeves, and perspiring as on a hot summer day. I see
very clearly that we must run with lighter loads, and
go over the same ground oftener. I hoped to be able
to advance our boats and provisions in three separate
hauls, but I must be satisfied if we now do it in six.

By midnight we had got up all our sled loads left
at the ferry, and sat down to our dinner.

June 19th, Sunday. — At one a. m. turned the hands
to and resumed work on the sleds. I started back the
St. Michael's sleds and dogs, with Starr in charge, to
our old camp to bring forward the remainder of our
provisions.

Loaded up Melville's sled with his pemmican and al-
cohol only : 720 lbs. pemmican, 320 lbs. alcohol, —
1,040 lbs. instead of 1,342 lbs., as before.

Finding that the second cutter's sled was beginning
to spread, dismounted the boat and set to work tight-
ening the lashings. After having tightened the lash-
ings of No. 1 sled, packed upon it seventeen cans pem-
mican, 765 lbs. ; eight cans alcohol, 320 lbs. ; one bag
tea, one bag coffee, one bag sugar, one half bag sugar,
one half bag tea, thirty-six lbs. Liebig. And upon the
doctor's No. 5 sled, all the bread except one large bag.
Upon Danenhower's and Chipp's sled packed only their

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 595

pemmican and alcohol. At six A. m. had supper; at
7.30 A. m. had lime juice; at 7.40 A. m. had prayers;
and at eight A. m. piped down.

At eight P. m. started ahead the second cutter, No. 1
sled, and hospital sled, while Starr and Ericksen ran
ahead a St. Michael's sled, with provisions. All, this
time, to stop at first cutter, No. 3 sled crew finishing
lashing on the whaleboat while I remained in the rear
to hurry things forward.

I have changed our procedure to the following :
Chipp, Danenhower, and the other sick go along with
the medical sled under the doctor's charge, and reach-
ing our halting place, stop there. Melville, wTith the
men, conduct the boats and sleds to the front, and I
load and dispatch clog sleds and bring up the rear.
This programme would have worked very well had not
the ice opened after Melville got the second cutter and
No. 1 sled to our new camp ; and, consequently, when
I, to relieve Ericksen, ran forward with the two dog
sleds, we had a hard time in getting across the opened
place. However, we got across and to the camp at
noon, and I ordered dinner to be prepared for twenty-
six, while I took back enough for the remaining seven,
myself included, intending to eat it at our old camp.
To my surprise, however, I met Melville half way with
the whaleboat, which disarranged my plans somewhat.
I called a halt, sent Melville with his men on to their
dinner, ordered dinner to be prepared for my party of
seven at the whaleboat, and going back to the old
camp brought up to the whaleboat a load of provisions.
This brought us to one A. m.

June 20th, Monday. — As soon as dinner was ready
at the whaleboat we sat down to it, having the unprec-
edented luxury of a board for a table. Just at one I

596 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

heard Melville arrive at the camp, the last yo-heave-
yup of Ninclemann announcing that fact. At two a. m.
we turned to and went back for the sled load of bread,
while Ericksen went on to the camp. When we got as
far as a crossing place beyond the whaleboat, though
there was a smooth road and no provocation, our Mc-
Clintock sled broke down, to my unmitigated disgust,
one runner doubling under completely. We unloaded
the bread and hitched on to the whaleboat, but could
only get her as far as the crossing place. Here Mel-
ville and his party hove in sight, "and they took the
boat away in good style, leaving me to guard the bread.
Soon Ericksen came along with his empty sled, and
upon his return trip with a load, I sent the broken
McClintock sled to the carpenter's hands. When Mel-
ville got into camp he went to work pitching tents by
my order, and Wilson unloaded No. 3 sled and brought
it back with the dogs to me. We then loaded one half
of the bread, and by some filling in where the ice had
opened we got it safely home. Bartiett then went back
for the remainder, and got it up by five A. M. ' Ericksen
by this time had made one more trip, and I now re-
lieved him and Leach, sending back Boyd and Johnson
for one more load before supper. Having left some
leaking tins of alcohol in our old camp, I sent back an
empty boat-breaker to be filled from them.

Supper at six A. M. Mr. Collins was added to our list
of ineffectuals to-day with " a stitch in his breast," but
seems all right again at supper. Last night we were
somewhat inconvenienced in our tent by a wet lower
blanket, and my sleeping-bag. got wet. The snow and
ice thaw from the heat we generate, and flow over our
rubber blanket. With the snowy weather we have no
chance to dry it, and have to take it as it is. Lime

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 597

juice 7.30 a. m. Pipe down eight a. m. at first cutter's
camp, only one and one half miles from our first start-
ing place of Friday, the 17th.

Called all hands at six p. m. Breakfasted at seven
p. m. It has been raining steadily for the last eight
hours, and I find the temperature up to 35°, and the
wind still from N. E. Not caring to expose anybody to
the weather, I sent around word that we should not
start until the rain let up ; and during the remainder
of this day we sat around in our tents wet and uncom-
fortable, hoping for a change, and wishing for a little
sun to dry our sleeping-bags.

At no time of the year is traveling worse than at
present. In the winter or spring months it is, of course,
cold and comfortless, but it is nevertheless dry. In au-
tumn or late summer it is favorable, because the melted
snow has all drained off the hard ice, and the traveling
is excellent. But just now the snow is soft enough to
sink into, and progress is almost impossible. And when
a rainy clay sets in, one's misery is complete. Even
the dogs cower under the boats for shelter like hens, or
snuggle up against the tent doors begging for admission.
One comfort we have is, that this rain will melt and
pack the ice, and, should a cold snap follow, freezing
will make a good road.

On shore the pattering of the rain on the roof has a
pleasant sound to those within, but out here it is far
from pleasant. No fires, of course, except for cooking,
and no place to dry clothes, and little streams of water,
trickling clown on you from the tent ventilating holes,
make your own wetness more wet.

These halts and long camps have shown me that sev-
eral of our party have been carrying more than I can
permit. It is astonishing how many " little things that

598 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

don't weigh anything " have crept in, and it is equally
surprising how great is their aggregate weight. I shall
have one more clearing out before leaving this camp.

Dinner at midnight carries us into

June 21st, Tuesday. — Day opens with N. E. wind,
a steady rain -fall, and a temperature of 35°. My
pocket barometer has got down to 30.22", but I still
think it out of order. At 2.30 A. m. the rain ceased,
and we resumed the work of repairing our St. Michael's
sleds. Having finished repairs to the doctor's light
McClintock sled, I sent it back with Boyd, Iversen, and
Aneguin, to bring up a load of provisions from the last
camp, which was accomplished by five a. m. Sent Mr.
Dunbar ahead with four men to make a road where
necessary, and to place flags. At 3.30 a. m. I took a
narta1 and nine dogs, and with Kaack carried forward
450 pounds pemmican and 50 pounds Liebig extract.

Mr. Dunbar had cut two roads, — one through piled
up hummocks, and another through a broken ridge, —
but generally speaking our day's work to-morrow will
be easier than any of the preceding days. There is one
ugly place where the ice has cracked and opened to a
foot in w^idth, and if it opens further, requiring bridging
or ferrying, we shall again have our hands full. Though
the rain has ceased, the sky remains overcast and threat-
ens more moisture. The temperature remains at 35°.
Wind E. N. E.

Supper at six. Pipe down at eight A. m. Called all
hands at six p. m. Breakfasted at seven, and at 7.50
p. m. got under wray. Sent Melville ahead with Nos. 1
and 2 sleds and two dog sleds (one narta, and one No.
5), and Ericksen and Leach with the other narta to the
old camp to bring forward remainder of stores. Left
i A sled. — Ed.

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 599

the camp pitched, and sleeping gear and mess gear con-
venient to the boats, in the event of our having to dine
here. The doctor with the sick remained, of course,
with the tents.

By 8.30 p. m. Melville and his party and the two ad-
vanced dog sleds have come back to camp, having left
the first load at the crack in the ice mentioned this
morning, it having widened as I feared during our sleep.
By nine the second installment was sent along, and by
9.30 the camp was broken, and the whaleboat, with
two more dog loads, under way.

Mr. Dunbar and two men remained ahead to try to
get a large piece of ice down to bridge the opening. I
had instructed Melville, in case Dunbar had managed to
bridge the opening, to get all our traps through the gap,
and as he did not return for the first cutter, I concluded
this was being done. At 11.30 P. M. Leach and Erick-
sen arrived from our old camp with the dog sled and
half the remaining provisions, the balance being left
with the dingy some distance back. As I was anxious
to get forward to see the state of things ahead, I sent
Ericksen and Leach back with three dogs for the dingy,
and placing No. l's mess gear in the clog sled, I started
on with three more dogs. This brought us to —

June 22d, Wednesday. — I hardly had gone one
fourth mile when I came to an ice opening, and in spite
of my strongest efforts, the dogs scattered across some
lumps, capsized the sled, dragged me in, and sent all
my mess gear flying, having accomplished which, and
reached the other side themselves, they sat down and
howled to their hearts' content.

Floundering across, I managed to collect my scattered
property and get it safely over, and then righted and
dragged out the sled. As soon as resistance was re-

600 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

moved, away went my dogs again. Reaching the ice
Oj^ening which had occasioned the delay at one a. m.,
I found Melville afloat and adrift on an ice-island with
all boats and sleds, nothing having been got through
the gap. I shouted to him to start dinner, and I would
join him later when the dingy came up. But he man-
aged to get a cake of ice dragged to me, and I ferried
across with my dog team and mess gear. At once we
set to work getting floes in place as bridges, and be-
fore sitting down to dinner we had two sleds and a lot
of dog loads through the gap on to the heavy ice be-
yond. At 1.30 sat down to dinner, and at two Ericksen
and Leach arrived with the dingy. At 2.20 a. m. turned
to and ran the whaleboat and second cutter through
the gap. Then sending Melville back with the party
for the first cutter, Ericksen, Leach, and myself pushed
on two dog teams with pemmican and bread as far as
the flag which I left a load at yesterday. When we
got back to the gap the doctor and the sick were
adrift, the ice having opened out during our absence.
Dragged cakes of ice down, and made a crazy bridge
over which the sick walked, and then we got the med-
ical sled across, and after bridging, dragging, digging,
and filling in, by six A. M. we had everything, first cut-
ter included, through the gap and on the hard ice.

Melville had to launch the first cutter and paddle her
part of his way, but he got her up in time to take a
share in the work of the rear-guard.

At 7.30 a. m. we had supper, and a more tired and
hungry set of mortals could not be found.

And so we got ready to bag, having come along about
a half a mile in ten hours' hard work. At nine A. m.
piped down.

At six p. m. called all hands. Breakfasted at seven.

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 601

Lime juice at 7.30, and at eight started off Melville
and Nos. 1 and 3 sleds, while Ericksen and Leach took
on two dog sled loads.

Weather a trifle pleasanter. Much fog prevails,
through which the sun glimmers and blinks like a
drunkard's eye.

Sick, so so. Chipp has had a bad night, and is much
the worse for wear this morning. Alexey is so easily
upset by a little stomach-ache as to lose his grip alto-
gether. Lauterbach looks as if he were going to at-
tend a funeral any moment, and must keep his counte-
nance to the proper point of solemnity. Danenhower's
trouble is, of course, his blindness. Mr. Dunbar be-
gins to wear again, and I have cautioned him to be
careful of himself for a few days, and not to exhaust
all his strength.

By 8.45 Melville had returned from a little distance
ahead, having broken a McClintock sled, or rather dis-
abled it ; for we at once set to work to right the turned
runner, and strengthen it with an oar lashed along the
inside. No time was lost in sending along one more
sled load, and at 9.15 Ericksen and Leach had started
with another invoice drawn by dogs.

On this second trip unfortunately a runner of a Mc-
Clintock sled doubled under, and had to be brought
back for repairs. I kept Nindemann and Sweetman to
do this, and sent on the boats and continued the trips
of the dog sleds. At 10.30 I sent on the doctor with
the sick, and at 11.30 everything else having gone
ahead, Nindemann, Sweetman, Aneguin, and myself,
with some dogs, dragged along the dingy and a few cans
of provisions, and reached the halting place by 11.55
p. M.

For the first time in our experience we were able to

602 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

reach in one half day the indicated place, have dinner
on time, and get ready for a new start after dinner.
This was because we were on solid ice, and had no open-
ings.

June 23c?, Thursday. — Sat down to dinner at 12.15
a. m., and turned to at 1.15. The weather remained
foggy, and we had a perfect calm. Running ahead a
dog team I found we could get on about a mile further
before being stopped by rough ice, and the word was
given for a general advance. By four A. M. everything
was forward. Meanwhile, seeing a good-looking lead
Mr. Dunbar and I got in the clingy and followed it up,
but it turned soon to the northwest, and I gave up the
idea of taking to the water. Just where wTe are it
seems impossible to proceed without the occurrence of
an opening. A small opening alongside of our track
terminates at our camp, unfortunately, as it tended in
a southerly direction. We made use of it to float our
boats down for an eighth of a mile.

At 2.30 the sky cleared, and the sun came out
brightly. A few cirrus clouds were all that could be
seen, the fog rolling away as if by magic before a light
N. E. breeze. At five A. M. the temperature was 25s°,
and at seven A. M. 2G?°, and our camp being pitched we
prepared to bag, having supper at six a. m. This is the
first really good day's work, and yet I do not think we
have made good more than one and a half miles, though
working seven hours steadily.

To the southward of us the ice is terribly confused,
and presents no chance for an advance as yet. But
no one can tell what six hours may bring forth, and
when we get up again we may see something. I at-
tempted to get our position by a Sumner, but the
change of bearing of the sun in the two hours gave me

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 603

hardly angle enough for a good intersection. The lon-
gitude is about E. 152°.

At 8.30 a. m. piped down. At six p. m. called all
hands. Breakfasted at seven. Sent Mr. Dunbar ahead
through the most likely looking part of the rough ice
in front of us to try to find a road. At eight started
ahead on our day's work, and, to save unnecessary de-
tailed description, I will here mention once for all our
manner of procedure.

The daily routine and manner of progress marked
out on the 16th have had to be abandoned for several
reasons, the principal of which was the impossibility of
telling one minute how the ice would be the next in
disarranging plans ; and second in importance, because
men cannot do this kind of work ten and a half hours
each day without breaking down. By and by, perhaps,
when our loads are lighter, wTe may be able to do it, but
just now it is out of the question. Our route having
been indicated by several black flags placed after a halt,
or before a start, Mr. Dunbar goes ahead at eight p. m.
to make sure that no bridges have become necessary in
the mean time. Then right after him goes Melville,
with nearly all hands, dragging the heavy sleds. No. 1
(already christened the Walrus) requires all his force,
but generally he can start two of the others at one
time. Ei'icksen and Leach run two dog sleds, trip after
trip, all day ; while I load, and occasionally run one
myself ahead, to mark progress and indicate the route.
The loaded sleds being up, Melville's party comes back
for the boats. I then start the doctor ahead with the
sick, to go as far as the heavy sleds have been dragged.
I then get the medical sled and run a load up to the
same place. By this time the boats are up, and eleven
p. M. has arrived, and I break off the cooks to get din-

604 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

ner, while Melville and his party drag the sleds ahead
another stage. Then there is midnight, and —

June 24:th, Friday — Dinner succeeds. At one we
turn to, drag the boats to where we left the sleds ; then
along goes the doctor and the sick to that place ; then
ahead go the sleds again ; again the boats, always the
dog-sleds, and finally at 5.30 or six I bring up the rear-
guard. We prepare for supper, pitch camp, and the
dog-sleds get up with the last load. At seven we sup,
at eight pipe down, to be called at six p. m.

We therefore haul nine hours a day, sleep or rest
ten, meal hours three, and the other two hours are oc-
cupied in pitching camp, serving out and cooking food,
breaking camp, and marking road ahead. There is no
work in the world harder than this sledging ; and with
my two line officers constantly on the sick-list, I have
much on my hands. In Melville I have a strong sup-
port, as well as a substitute for them, and as long as he
remains as he is — strong and well — I shall get along-
all right. The doctor is willing and anxious 'to pitch
in and haul like a seaman, but I consider him more
necessary to the sick, and have directed him to remain
with and accompany them.

To-day we have clone very well, having made one
and a fourth miles (estimated), good. The ice opened
on us twice, and gave me and the dog-sleds some trou-
ble. The heavy sleds had gone on before the ice opened.
One dog sled got half overboard, and we had to cut the
dogs adrift to save them from being drowned, while two
of us held the sled back. The prospect for our next
start is encouraging. We are now on a piece of old
ice which seems to extend for several miles yet. To-
day has been unusually disagreeable on account of the
amount of water on the surface of the ice. Frequently

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 605

the men broke through over their knees, and dragging,
under these circumstances, is hard work. In pools here
and there around us water has formed, and though the
lower temperature freezes it at night, the sun thaws the
ice in the middle of the day, and we suddenly flounder
in. A month later this water will drain off to the sea.
The weather was foggy at our start last night, but
though the fog disappeared soon after, the sky was
covered with cirro-cumulus and cumulo-stratus clouds,
effectively blocking my attempt to get the latitude
at midnight, consequently we are still in the dark as
to our position.

Chipp is very weak, and just strong enough to be
able to walk from place to place by easy stages. I am
very seriously disturbed about him. Lauterbach was
restored to duty yesterday evening. Alexey still sick,
unable to keep anything on his stomach.

Starr informs me that he has often come across writ-
ten papers in our provision packages, and he has
brought me this one which he found yesterday with
some coffee : —

" This is to express my best wishes for your furtherance and
success in your great undertaking. Hoping when you peruse
these lines you will be thinking of the comfortable homes you
left behind you for the purpose of aiding science. If you can
make it convenient drop me a line. My address,

" G. J. K.
" 10 Box, New York City."

At the doctor's suggestion I to-day issued an order
that all salt now in our possession should be saved, and
none used until further orders. Each boat box has
two tin canisters containing two pounds each, and that
gives us twelve pounds altogether.

We used the last of our chicken and turnips to-day,

606 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and now we come down to our traveling rations, nearly.
Chocolate, cocoa, and cheese we still have, in addition,
and so long as carrying them does not stop our way we
shall take them with us.

Piped down at 8.30 a. m. ; called all hands at six
p. M. Weather foggy. At seven breakfasted ; at eight
started ahead sleds, — Dunbar and I going ahead to
mark out a road. Much water under the surface crust ;
broke in frequently to our knees. Placed two flags
half a mile south of this camp, and sent doctor and sick
ahead to this spot at 9.30. We did not succeed in get-
ting all our gear up last march, and have to send back
for six sled loads. By midnight everything was so well
along that —

June 25th, Saturday, found us getting ready for din-
ner, to which we sat down at one A. m., turning the
hands to at two A. m. At midnight I had got a meridian
altitude, which to my amazement gave me a latitude of
N. 77° 46'. There was no mistake in the observation,
and I went over my figures a half dozen times to find
any error. But each time 77° 46' was the result. I
overhauled my sextant, but that was all right, and my
amazement increased. To start in 77° IS' N., travel
south a week, and then find one's self twenty-eight
miles further north than the starting point is enough to
make one thoughtful and anxious. For a long time I
pondered, and for the moment was inclined to attribute
the strange result to some extraordinary refraction, but
upon looking back at my rejected Sumner of the 23d
I found that the intersection gave 77° 46', and so was
more anxious than ever. At 4.30 A. M. and 7.30 A. m.
I got another Sumner, and this, plotted, gave me 77° 43'
for a latitude. My rough means of making a skeleton
chart accounted in part for the difference from the

LEAVING THE SHIP BEHIND. 607

lower meridian altitude. More anxious than ever, I
determined to sit up until noon and get the upper
meridian altitude before committing myself to plans
for the future.

This day's work has not been as satisfactory as yes-
terday's. We have advanced about three quarters of
a mile. Ice openings bothered us, and it was not until
eight A. M. that we had our supper at camp.

The weather was calm and foggy until the beginning
of the day, and then it cleared rapidly away as the
temperature fell to 22°, and a light west air sprung up.
By eight a. m. the temperature was 28°, and the west
air continued freshening to a light breeze. The sky
was one half covered with cirro-cumulus clouds moving
east.

We camped on an old piece of ice, and here wre were
soon brought to a stand. The country to the south-
ward of us is terribly wild and broken. Mr. Dunbar,
whom I sent ahead to reconnoitre, reports that it is
such a jam and so full of holes that he could not crawl
over it. However, Nil desperandum. Got soundings
in twenty-five fathoms.

Chipp has become alarmingly weak. After walking
one third of a mile to the halting place for dinner, he
was completely exhausted, and though he remained on
or in his bag until six A. m. (seven hours after), he was
unable at first to get on his feet when we tried to take
the hospital on to camp. Being assisted to stand he
was clearly unfit to walk, and to his great mortifica-
tion was compelled to accede to our request to be car-
ried on in a dog sled. How are we to get him through ?

At noon I obtained a meridian altitude, and this gave
me latitude 77° 42', and of this at least there is no
doubt. My Sumner of this morning was accurate, and

608 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

my midnight observation was out only by the greater
refraction of such a low altitude. I therefore accept
the situation, and shall modify my plans to this extent.
Instead of making a south course I shall incline more
to southwest, for as the line of our drift is northwest,
a southwest course will cross it more rapidly than a
south one, and bring us quicker to the ice edge.

I turned in at one p. M., a fog creeping up with the
west wind. I had piped down the men at 9.30 a. m.,
with orders to call all hands at seven p. m. This wras
done, but from a desire not to disturb me, no move
was made toward getting alcohol until eight p. m., when
I became aware that something was amiss and roused
up to set it straight. In consequence wre did not get
breakfast until 8.45 p. m.

I find this morning my hands were so badly sun-
burned before our halt as to be now swollen and pain-
ful. A little cerate, however, soon made them easier.

Such a rough country as we have before us requires
more careful examination than a short run ahead can
give ; and I have therefore sent Mr. Dunbar to seek a
road out of our difficulty, while I let the camp remain
"on their oars." After our hard day's work of yester-
day, this additional rest is wrelcome, and if a good road
is found we can make a long step this afternoon. At
the -same time there is no loss, for Ericksen and Leach
have two or three loads yet in the rear to bring up.

CHAPTER XIII.

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN".

26 June— 14 July, 1881.

Five Ice Bridges in One Day. — The Heat of the Sun. — Discourag-
ing Progress. — The Reticence of the Captain. — Cheerfulness of
the Men. — Beautiful Cloud Formations. — Vexatious Openings. —
Paleocrystic Sea. — Daily Fog. — Wild Geese. — The Water. —
Wet Beds. — Uncomfortable Dinners. — Hard Ice. — The Glorious
Fourth. — Change in Character of Ice. — A Gale. — Half a Mile
in Six Hours. — The Repeated Journeys. — Impossibility of Get-
ting Position. — Needle Ice. — Cry of Land. — A Lost Bear. —
Land and Water. — The Hard Work of the March. — Ferrying. —
No Thoroughfare. — Condition of the Dogs. — Damage to Walk-
ing Gear. — Nearer Sight of Island. — Seal. — Mr. Dunbar goes
to look for the Land.

June 26th, Sunday. — Sat down to dinner at 12.15
A. m., and turned to at 1.15 A. m. Mr. Dunbar now
returned, and I sent him to get his dinner, while with
the bridge makers and two dog sleds I pushed ahead.
Melville accidentally fell into the water and got wet to
his waist, and during the morning's work the Walrus
(No. 1 sled) fell in, sticking her nose well under the
ice. However, she was dragged out. Though the road
generally was better than yesterday, no less than five
bridges had to be made, and consequently, when at
6.30 A. m. I halted and pitched camp, we had made
good only one half mile south southwest. Before us,
however, we seem to have a good road from south to
southwest.

39

610 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

It has been blistering hot since midnight, though the
thermometer marked only 23° in the sun. The sky was
cloudless. A light S. S. W. breeze fanned along, but
we all suffered from the heat. Our hands and faces
are all swollen and blistered, and my hands are very
painful.

At 7.30 a. M. had supper; at 8.30 a. m. read divine
service, and at nine A. M. piped down ; at six p. m. called
all hands ; at seven breakfasted, and at eight started
ahead again. Dunbar first, road makers next, dog
sleds third, and Melville, with the heavy sleds, last.

For breakfast had beef- tea (excellent), coffee, bread,
and pemmican. By eleven p. m. the sleds and boats
were advanced half a mile over a fairly good road,
and the sick were sent to the front. A thick fog hid
our flags, and I had to stumble and flounder along Mr.
Dunbar's tracks to gain a place for marking a halt. I
say the road was fairly good, though for the greater
part of the way we had to wade through water nearly
to our knees. At one half mile we had a bad place to
cross, requiring some digging and bridging, but

June 27th, Monday, — one a. m., found us about a
quarter of a mile further, and we halted for dinner.
Turned to at 2.15 A. m., and from this time to seven
a. m. we had the hardest time we have yet had. We
succeeded in advancing only half a mile further south
southwest, making one and a quarter miles in eleven
hours' steady work. Just after leaving our halting
place, we had another opening to cross twenty feet in
width ; and while we tried bridging it, it opened twenty
feet more. After great exertion we succeeded in drag-
ging in three large floes for bridges,, and by herculean
efforts got our sleds and boats over, launching first and
second cutters. Drifting about one eighth of a mile

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 611

further, we had another ice opening about sixty feet
wide, and to bridge this we had literally to drag an ice-
island thirty feet wide and hold it in place. Hardly
had we done this when the lead widened, and we had
to scour around for more huge blocks to make them
serve our purpose. There seems to be general slack-
ness to the ice, and a streaming away without any re-
sistance. It is hardly late enough to find leads of any
length, but there are openings enough to give us seri-
ous trouble.

To work like horses all day for ten or eleven hours,
and to make only a mile, is rather discouraging ; and
the knowledge that we are very likely going three
miles northwest to every mile we make southwest
keeps me anxious. Melville and the doctor are the
only ones to whom I have communicated our latitude,
and to them I intend it shall be confined ; for no doubt
great discouragement, if not entire loss of zeal, would
ensue were such a disagreeable bit of news generally
known. I dodge Chipp, Danenhower, and Dunbar, lest
they should ask me questions.

Thus far everybody is bright and cheerful, and sing-
ing is going on all around. I hope our good health and
spirits may long continue. Supper at 7.40 ; piped down
at nine a. m. Found upon arrival in camp that the run-
ner of the second cutter's sled was beginning to double
under, so we dismounted the boat and left the relash-
ing to be done by the successive men on watch.

Everybody complaining of the heat — at nine the
temperature was 30° in the shade. It seems curious
enough to see men seeking a shady spot in which to sit
and smoke while the temperature is so low. At supper
we found the tent exceedingly warm, and as soon as I

612 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

had it cleared I hung up a thermometer with the fol-
lowing result : —

One foot above the ice .... 37°

Height of my breast 40°

Calm and pleasant weather when we piped down.
Called all hands at six p. m. Breakfasted at seven;
under way at eight p. m. Some ugly bridging delayed
us considerably, so that

June 2Sth, Tuesday, found us advanced only one half
mile southwest. At 1.15 we had everything across the
lead, and had dinner ready. At 2.15 a. m. we turned
to again, and immediately had to tow a large ice-island
into a lead, and placing all our stuff and boats on it.
made a flying bridge of it. Then we sped on a quarter
of a mile farther, and at five a. m. pitched camp. When
we started we had a cloudless sky, a blistering sun,
light east airs, and a temperature of 28°. But toward
dinner time clouds began to rise in the west, and pass-
ing around by north and by south at equal speed had
entirely covered the sky by four a. m., and rain com-
menced to fall in large drops. The temperature rose
to 30°, and the wind veered to S. E.

The cloud formations were, in the foreground, beau-
tiful cirro-cumulus, which, nearly reaching the eastern
horizon, assumed most striking resemblances to ice
raised by refraction. Every hummock and peak was
very strongly defined, seemingly. Following the cirro-
cumulus were stratus, cumulo - stratus, and nimbus
clouds, and frequently the rain pattered down from
these last named. Though we could have gone on a
short distance further before getting to an opening, I
decided to camp, in order to save ourselves a wetting.
Wet we were, it is true, below our knees, but this

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 613

meant only changing foot gear. At five a. m., there-
fore, camped. At six a. m. had supper, and after sup-
per set No. 2 at work restowing sled, the lee boards
having been left out last time.

Strong indications of water to the southwest.

Chipp is improving in health, and I hope in a few
days the doctor will be relieved from the necessity of
staying with or near him.

At eight a. m. piped down ; at six p. m. called all
hands ; at seven breakfasted, and at eight started
ahead. For one eighth of a mile we had fair going
with no more road-making than what a few strokes of
a pickaxe could do, and then we came to a very ugly
piece of ferrying ; an opening twenty feet wide filled
with ugly lumps and blocks of ice had to be passed,
and our only means available were to make a flying
bridge. The wind set all these lumps down faster
than we could clear them away, and our flying bridge
was unwieldy. However, we got across somehow, and
moved on, accomplishing half a mile before we halted
for dinner at 12.30 A. M.

June 29th, Wednesday. — At 1.30 turned to. Right,
at our feet we had some road-making to do, and then
we came to some very old heavy ice, dirty and dis-
colored with mud, with here and there a mussel shell,
and with a piece of rock on it, which, as it was similar
to that on Henrietta Island, I carried along. Going
ahead with the dog sleds and Mr. Dunbar we suddenly
came to water, and peering into the fog it seemed as if
we had some extensive lead before us. Going back
hurriedly I sent the dingy ahead for an exploration,
but, alas ! it was fruitless. The favorable lead which
we thought we had turned out to be another wretched
opening seventy-five feet wide, which we had to bridge.

614 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

By great good fortune a large piece was handy, and by
hard hauling Dunbar, Sharvell, and I succeeded in get-
ting it in place, and a fortunate closing of the lead a
foot or two jammed it in as a solid bridge. Unfortu-
nately openings were occurring in our rear, and we
had more bridging; to do there.

Never was there such luck. No sooner do we get our
advance across a lead than a new one opens behind
it, and makes us hurry back lest our rear should be
caught. By the time we have got a second sled ahead
more openings have occurred, and we are in for a time.
These openings are always east and west. By no
means, seemingly, can we get one north and south, so
that we might make something by them ; and these
east and west lanes meander away to narrow veins be-
tween piled up masses, over which there can no road
be built, and between which no boat can be got. It is
no uncommon thing for us to have four leads to bridge
in half a mile, and when one remembers that Melville
and his party have to make always six and sometimes
seven trips, the amount of coming and going is fearful
to contemplate. Add to this the flying trip of the dog-
sleds, and the moving forward of the sick at a favor-
able moment, and it is not strange that we dread meet-
ing an ice opening.

This very old and hard ice is beyond doubt what Sir
George Nares calls " paleocrystic." I measured one
place and found it thirty-two feet nine inches thick,
and where it is not mud-stained it is rounded up in
hummocks resembling alabaster. Over this we sledded
and dragged well enough, though it was, as the men
said, " a rocky road to Dublin." I encountered one
piece, which was sixteen feet thick, and I am almost
inclined to think was a single growth, for not a line of
union of layers could be seen.

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN". 615

By 7.30 A. M. I arrived with the rear guard at the
camp, after sounding in twenty-seven fathoms. I tried
to get sights, but the fog was too much for me. To-
day we detected the second cutter's runner preparing
to double under, and it was at once repaired and re-
lashed, getting the boat off the sled for that purpose.
The port runner of No. 4 sled was found trying the
same trick, and proper repairs were made by the watch
while we were sleeping.

Chipp seems to be gaining strength.

The temperature has been steady at 30° all day, but
it seems much colder; we always get our feet wet early
in the morning, and that keeps us uncomfortable until
we stop to camp ; a thick fog seems to penetrate to our
bones all day. And an unusual thing, a S. W. wind, is
worthy of record. My barometer marks now 29.90",
so it may have been right all along.

Supper at 8.30 a. m. ; piped down, 9.30 a. m. Called
all hands at seven p. m. ; breakfasted at eight p. m. ;
underway at nine p. M. ; wind S. W. From nine p. m.
to 12.40 A. M.,

June SOth, Thursday, we advanced without much
difficulty, only one or two small openings presenting
themselves. In these three hours and forty minutes
we succeeded in getting everything along half a mile,
and then halted for dinner.

Toward midnight we had observed a long low line of
black cloud in the west, extending from southwest to
northwest, and it promised a rising fog. By the time
we had halted it had spread around in its accustomed
way north and south, and by 1.30 a. m. the sky was
entirely overcast, a wet, damp fog like fine rain shut-
ting in everything. The daily recurrence of this phe-
nomenon makes me believe that we are drawing near

616 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

open water, for I hardly believe that such a fog could
arise from ice openings daily. Towards midnight the
sun's power wanes, and the water begins to give off
heat slowly, which is condensed on being carried by
the wind over the cold ice, and is deposited or carried
along as fog, etc. Generally speaking, when we turn
out at six p. m. the sun is brightly shining, and when
we go to bed at nine A. m. is shining again. But be-
tween midnight and camping time it is foggy enough.

After dinner, 1.50 A. M., we pushed ahead again. By
going in advance with Mr. Dunbar I managed to make
out a long route of one and a half miles, and termina-
ting in a good flat floe piece. But it required some
little bridging and considerable road-making and man-
aging-, and a roundabout road of about five miles.
However, we accomplished it with no other accident
than breaking one St. Michael's sled and springing a
cross bar of the first cutter's sled. While ferrying
across a lead with Mr. Dunbar this morning, we saw a
fish about four inches long dart out from a hole in the
ice, and as suddenly dart back again. During our sec-
ond summer we used frequently to see the same kind
of fish, and I wondered if they were young cod or
salmon. We never could catch one for a specimen.
This morning we also heard some wild geese calling to
each other, and a Ross gull was seen. This is the sec-
ond we have seen since the ship sank. Is this their
habitable part of the world ? On top of the old ice
which we have encountered wre have met many pools
of water which seem to me to be the same kind as
those mentioned by Captain Nares, and from which the
Alert's people drank steadily. Seeing some of the^-e
pools freeze to-day at 32°, I imagined they might be
fresh water, but the doctor tested some with nitrate of

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 617

silver and found it contained much salt ! Supper at
nine ; piped down at ten A. m., a long day's work, and
I think two miles made good.

The sick being far enough convalescent to do with-
out the doctor's steady presence, I assigned him to-day
to the road and bridge-making ; his force consisting of
Mr. Newcomb and Lee. Alexey will now run with a
dog sled helping Aneguin. Called all hands at eight
p. m. Breakfasted at nine p. m. Under way at 10.30,
repairs keeping us back. By one A. m.,

July 1st, Friday, had advanced everything one half
mile over a fair road, and halted for dinner.

At two A. M. turned the hands to and pushed ahead
until 7.30 A. m., when we halted and camped, having
made good one and a quarter miles southwest in eight
and one half hours' work. The road was a mixed one,
sometimes very good and sometimes very bad, but as
we had a fine, smooth piece in view for our camp, with
a fine stretch of three quarters of a mile for our next
tramp, we cannot complain at our luck. Some bridg-
ing we had to do, and of course much road-making, but
we got through without mishap, except the knocking
overboard of the doctor by the Walrus, and his get-
ting wet through. During our first stage Sweetman re-
paired the St. Michael's sled, and consequently we had
both of them running regular trips during our second.

Called all hands at six p. m. Breakfast at seven p. M.
During the whole of our sleeping time the rain was
falling in showers, and when we were called the patter-
ing of the drops could be heard on our tent. Our bags
are of course wet again, and in some of them, mine
and Ericksen's particularly, the feet end is as wet as a
sop.

Ericksen, Boyd, and Kaack turned in with dry foot

618 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

gear, and turned out wet to the knees. I managed to
get my feet doubled up to a dry place, and slept with
tolerable comfort for some hours, until my bones com-
menced to ache with the infernal hardness of the ice on
which we were lying. Snow would be softer, of course,
but the heat from our bodies would soon melt it, and
we should be lying in a pool of water before long.
There is so much snow-water all over the ice that we
cannot find a place dry enough to make our rubber
blanket a sufficient protection. At eight p. m. a few
rain-drops were falling, and the sky promised copious
showers. A light N. W. breeze was blowing, and, though
there was no fog to speak of, it was difficult to see any
distance. Not carina; to run the risk of drenching;
everbody, I delayed marching until nine p. m., when
the temperature being 30.5° I concluded we should
have no rain, and gave the order to start. A fair road
enabled us to move everything one half mile southwest
by 12.30 a. m.

July 2d, Saturday. — When we halted for dinner I
had gone ahead with Mr. Dunbar to select and make a
road, but a thick fog shut in everything a few yards
distant. By much groping we found a very rough and
circuitous way to some smooth ice (i. e. ice with two feet
of slush and water over it, and holes where you would
suddenly sink to your knees), and got back in time to
eat dinner. This dinner time is our most uncomforta-
ble part of the twenty-four hours. Our feet and legs
are wet in the first half hour of our marching, but as
long as we move ahead we do not mind it ; but when
we halt for dinner our feet become cold, and generally
remain so until we camp at night and change our foot
gear.

At 1.30 a. m. turned to, and sent one hand from each

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 619

tent to help the road and bridge makers. These so
quickly cut out a road for us in a roundabout mass of
confused ice that by three we had got everything on
to the " smooth ice " before referred to. This " smooth
ice " led to another piece where the water was knee
deep, and we plowed everything through it by five a. m.
— a good three quarters of a mile since dinner. Here
we were confronted by a terrible mass of hummocks
and rubble, but, setting the road makers at it in ad-
vance, no delay was occasioned, and we jumped every-
thing through it on to some " old-fashioned ice " (Erick-
sen) i: e. paleocrystic, by 6.45 a. m., and pitched camp.
Supper at 7.30 a. m.

Called all hands at six p. m. Breakfasted at seven
p. m. A brisk N. N. W. wind ; barometer 29.95 at 38° ;
temperature 29.5°. Rain and snow at various times
during our stop. The temperature and our sleeping
in wet bags make us somewhat cold and stiff, but that
will soon wear off. We have the satisfaction of know-
ing now that this wind will dry our wet bags and foot
gear. At 8.30 p. m. advanced through a very rough and
confused " skeleton pack " for one half mile, after which
we fell in with some smooth ice, with but little water
and snow on it, and this extended for about one mile
on our course. It took us until 12.30 a. m., —

July od, Sunday, — to get all our sleds and boats up
to the beginning of the smooth ice, and then we halted
for dinner. The sun now began to try to force its way
through the clouds and fog, and it seemed to grow
much colder. My thermometer being packed away, I
did not verify my sensations.

To avoid the wind as much as possible the boats were
slued around across the wind, and we huddled under
their lee while we ate our dinner. Having placed Hags

620 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ahead farther than we had been able to go before din-
ner, I instructed Melville to move everything on to
the last flag, while I went ahead to plant more. By
3.30 A. m. I had marked out a point which I considered
a good two miles southwest of our last camp ; and con-
cluding this would be as far as we should be able to
drag our loads, I sent word back by Dunbar to Melville,
and ordered my instrument box sent to the front. The
sun was now showing at times, and the clouds and fog
were rolling away before the N. N. W. wind. The ba-
rometer was at 30, and the thermometer at 27°, the
latter accounting for the clearing weather ; ahead of
us a smooth road extended for a mile, apparently giv-
ing good promise for to-morrow. The fog in rolling
away disclosed a few cirrus clouds, promising good
weather, and the low temperature seemed to insure our
having the sun long enough to get our wet clothing
and sleeping gear dry. At 6.45 a. m. everything was
up and we pitched the camp. At 7.30 had supper. At
nine a. m. read Articles of War, and had divine service.
At 9.30 a. m. piped down. Everybody is bright and
cheerful, and apparently (except Chipp and Danen-
hower) in excellent health. We have abundance of
food, good appetites, sleep well, and, as Mr. Cole ex-
presses it, he " seems to get more spring in him every
day." My sights place us in 77° 31' N., and 150° 41' E.,
a change in position since June 25th of thirteen miles
S. 30° W. As our distance made by account is twelve
miles, it would seem that we have had no current
against us. But of course I cannot tell ; we may have
been set down that much in three days by our northerly
winds, and therefore I must accept the position as sim-
ply showing where we are, and push on for the edge of
the ice.

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 621

Called all hands at seven p. m. Breakfasted at eight
p. m., under way at nine p. m. Chipp seems so much
better that the doctor has concluded to stop his whis-
key for a clay or two, to see if he can gain strength,
or keep what he has, without it. By ten p. m. the
wind was very light from the southeast, temperature
251°, and a long, angry series of cirrus clouds and
mare's tails extended from northwest to southeast.
Beautiful summer temperature ! ! Having remained
behind to work out my sights, I now, at ten p. m.,
hastened forward, and was able to fix upon a good
place one and a fourth miles southwest for our dinner,
and accordingly had things brought to that point.

July Ath, Monday. — At 1.45 a. m. halted for dinner.
At three sharp set out again, and though some little
confusion was imminent because the Walrus took the
wrong road, we avoided all serious delay, and by 6.20
A. m. had advanced everything one mile more, making
the, to us, unprecedented distance of two and one fourth
miles southwest in eight hours and twenty minutes.
For the last one fourth mile our course lay over some
beautiful hard ice parallel to a narrow lead, and we
were able to send two sleds ahead at a time, and the'
second cutter and whaleboat together, making the first
cutter our only " all hands " haul. This reduced the
number of trips from seven to four, a great saving, —
though possible only for short stages, because such work
soon exhausts the men's breath. Having been sixteen
days under way, we have sensibly reduced the amount
of our provisions hauled on the dog sleds, and in con-
sequence the dog sleds get home some little time in ad-
vance of the boats and heavy sleds. I have therefore
ordered the bags to be removed from the Walrus, and
the top tier of bags from the " bread sled," assigning

622 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

them to the quick-running clog sleds, and in this man-
ner I hope to lighten the heavier sleds so as to enable
the men to haul two sleds at a time. While the after-
dinner work was going on, Mr. Dunbar and I went
ahead to look for a road for to-morrow. At the camp-
ing place we seem to have come to the end of the
heavy, smooth floe over which the last half of yester-
day's and both portions of to-day's work was done.

The narrow lead which I mentioned as running par-
allel with it for the last one fourth mile separates it
from some disconnected pieces of ice of last winter's
formation, extending for about a mile, and then we
seem to come to some old ice again. The prospect is
not bad ; I find we are not consuming our daily ration
— one pound of pemmican — nor have we ever done
so ; and, strange to say, the dogs do not sometimes eat
theirs. We all like it amazingly, eating it cold three
times a clay, like cake out of our hands, but yet we
seem to have enough on less than a pound.

Our greatest comfort morning and evening is Lie-
big's Extract, or beef-tea. Our daily allowance of one
ounce per man is sufficient to give us a pint morning
and evening, and I know of no more refreshing and
comforting thing up here than this same warm drink.
Some tents take the whole ounce at dinner, but we in
No. 1 prefer it when we get up, and when our day's
work is clone.

I find, also, that one pint of alcohol is necessary for
each tent each meal to cook coffee, beef-tea, or choco-
late, as the case may be, and to melt enough snow and
broken-down ice-crystals for drinking water. This, I
am sure, is in excess of former sledge, travelers, but as
yet I can see no way of reducing it. Supper at 7-15
a. m. Our flags are all flying in honor of the day,

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 623

though to me it is a very blue one. Three years ago
to-day in Havre the Jeannette was christened, and
many pleasant things were said, and anticipations
formed, all of which have gone down with the ship. I
did not think then that three years afterward would
see us all out on the ice with nothing accomplished, and
a story of a lost ship to carry back to our well-wishers
at home. My duty to those who came with me is to
see them safely back, and to devote all my mind and
strength to that end. My duty to those depending on
me for support hereafter impels me to desire that I
should return also ; but those two duties apart, I fancy
it would have made but little difference if I had gone
down with my ship. But as there is nothing done
without some good purpose being served, I must en-
deavor to look my misfortune in the face, and to learn
what its application may be. It will be hard, however,
to be known hereafter as a man who undertook a Polar
expedition and sunk his ship at the 77th parallel.
Piped down at nine a. m. Called all hands at six p. m.
Breakfasted at seven p. M. Under way at eight p. m.
Three hundred yards from our camp we came to an ice
opening one hundred and fifty feet wide, right in our
way ; as we are now doubling our fleets, that is, drag-
ging two sleds at a time, such an opening was a serious
inconvenience. A small, thick floe piece was floating in
the middle of the lead, and I hoped to get that pressed
into service before any delay could occur. Sending for
the dingy I succeeded in getting this lump in tow, and
ready for a flying bridge, or ferry, while the other
boats were coming up. Second cutter and two sleds
were then carried across, the remainder being kept be-
hind for a second load, and to avoid an accident involv-
ing loss of our provisions. However, everything got

624 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

across all right. Soon after we had to make a second
ferriage, and then a number of bridges before we reached
the hard ice which Dunbar and I had visited before our
last camp. Ice which was connected then was all open
and moving now, and it was not until one a. m.,

July 5th, Tuesday, that we had everything in suffi-
cient security to sit down to our dinner. The snow was
falling quite heavily in large flakes, and we rigged up
our rubber blankets from the boat's rails to protect us,
making our dinner-halt look like a small country fair,
as some of the men said. I could not help remarking
that there were many people under canvas in Hoboken
to-day picnicking, who would like a little of the cool-
ness we were now having, but it seemed to provoke a
desire to exchange places with them, and I said noth-
ing more.

At two a. m. we turned to and went ahead. Ice
openings again annoyed us somewhat, but we set to
work bridging them. While so doing the whole pack
seemed to get alive, and the tossing and tumbling that
went on for fifteen minutes were uncomfortable to wit-
ness. Large floes, which had been held under others,
became liberated, and rising to the surface floundered
around like huge whales ; where the floe edges came
together large blocks were broken off, and reared up
on end twenty-five and thirty feet high ; a mass of rub-
ble coming together raised an enormous piece, until it
stood like a monument thirty feet above the surface of
the floe. Long, thick snouts shoved up above and over
even floe pieces, like immense snow-plows, and groans
and shrieks came from all directions as these snouts
rose and advanced inch by inch ; where long floe pieces
reared up to thirty feet and toppled backward, they
broke in large lumps and scattered themselves for

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 625

yards. And yet we seem to have got out of a paleo-
crystic sea. Our road yesterday and to-day has been
over ice that more nearly resembles the pack we en-
tered near Herald Island than anything else, and with
occasional exceptions seems to be one season's growth,
the thickness varying between seven and ten feet. If
this be correct assumption, we may be out of the drift-
ing pack and in the ice clinging to the Liakhoff Islands,
in which case I hope many days will not elapse before
we get in a lead to some purpose.

Chipp is not nearly as strong as he would have us
believe. I mentioned yesterday that the doctor stopped
his whiskey to see the effect. Last night (our sleeping
time) Chipp ate nothing, had no sleep, and was groan-
ing and tumbling around all the time. This we learn
from Dunbar, for Chipp asserts he is " first rate," and
tells Dunbar to say so when he is asked by the doctor.
Foolishly enough he wants to be discharged to duty,
thinking he is able to do work.

Going ahead I marked a camping place, which we
reached at six A. M., having made good two miles in a
southwest line. Called all hands at six p. m. ; break-
fasted at seven p. m. ; under way at eight. About five
hundred yards from camp we came to a lead which
we easily crossed, and then had some fine sledging for
one quarter of a mile along its eastern side on our
course. We spun along merrily enough this stretch,
and were then confronted by a ridge of large floe
pieces through which we had to dig a road. This was
done while the boats were being brought up, and the
sleds were got through ; but before the boats could be
got along the ice commenced to open, and we had
great difficulty in getting boats and dog sleds through.
Meanwhile I had pushed on and laid out a road, and

40

626 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

directed Mr. Dunbar to proceed ahead of the dog sled
to mark it for the heavy sleds, while I remained at
the opening ice - ridge. Toward midnight the sun
made several ineffectual attempts to break through,
and a line of soft fog rested low down between south
and west. I was somewhat in hopes that the sky would
clear and the fog roll away and show us land, but no
such good luck attended us. Sometimes it snowed, at
others a mist, cold and searching, surrounded us.

July 6th, Wednesday, one A. m., found us halted for
dinner, about a mile from our starting point, at the
edge of a broken mass of floe pieces and water. The
wind had got to S. S. W. and began to freshen, and the
mist was colder and wetter than ever. At two A. m.
we turned to and immediately hooked on to a large ice-
cake for a ferry boat, and placing two provision sleds
and the dog sleds on it, we hauled it along two hun-
dred yards to the other side of the lead, launching and
paddling the boats after it. This took some time longer
than necessary, on account of the line parting and the
clingy getting adrift, but we finally had our things fer-
ried by four a. m. Pushing on across a second lead we
dug a road over a ridge of piled up hummocks, and
had nearly completed our second mile for the day when
we were checked by an ice opening thirty yards in
width. As I generally wait to see the rear safely up
before pushing ahead, nothing was done until I reached
the front again. A large piece conveniently at hand
was seized upon as a bridge, and things rushed across to
a camp at six ; but it was not until 7.30 A. m. that I
came up with the rear guard, and sat clown to my sup-
per — cold, wet, and hungry. Ericksen (who had no
sleep last night on account of toothache, and who suf-
fered very much to-day) brought up the clingy as a finish
to our day of ten and a half hours' work.

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 627

The after bearer of the first cutter's sled was found
sprung, and the runner lashings slack. Ordered the
watch to repair during our sleep. Several Ross gulls
and three seals seen to-day. Piped down at nine a. m.
Called all hands at six p. m. ; breakfast at seven p. m.
A gloomy, disagreeable day, and unless we want soak-
ing wet jackets we must stay under our tents. As soon
as breakfast was over I sent word around that no start
would be made until the weather improved. We are
evidently having a S. W. gale, an unusual thing in our
experience of two years, and it would be a matter of
pleasant interest, were it not also a subject of much
anxiety, to remain quiet and see where it would drift
us. This wet day and consequent halt come in op-
portunely, for the men are enabled to repair their worn
and leaking moccasins. Our sleeping-bags, alas ! are
again wet, and in fact it is a miracle when they are
dry. If we keep wet this way all the hair will come
out of the bags, and we shall lie down on the bare skin.
Up to midnight the wind tore around us in fierce gusts,
threatening to blow our tents away, while the rain beat
down almost steadily. Though cold and damp, if not
to say wet, we were in tolerable comfort, because shel-
tered. The doo-s crouched under the boats, or what-
ever else afforded a shelter, while we, human beings,
stayed within doors. The wind continued at S. W.
true (all directions in this journal are true) ; the barom-
eter fell to 29.30 at 36°, and the temperature rose to
33°. If this blow does not sweep us to the northward
again, which I very much fear it will do, it will do us
good in two ways : break up the ice and improve our
traveling.

July 7 th, Thursday. — Had dinner at midnight. The
wind freshened a little, the temperature fell to 30.5°, and

628 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

the barometer fell to 29.28 at 36°, and there remained.
The rain ceased, and I am now looking for a change of
wind to northwest. Everything had such a stormy and
unsettled look, however, that I decided to remain in
camp until our usual starting time, or a little earlier,
perhaps. Aneguin shot a seal, but it sunk before the
dingy could be run clown to the water. Twenty-three
fathoms water, and rapid drift to leeward N. E. Sup-
per at six a. m. Mounted the first cutter again on her
sled. Nindemann felt ill to-day, and in order to let him
get quiet and warm, the rest of us in No. 1 tent turned
in at seven a. m. Wind canting a little to the westward,
but the barometer sticks at 29.28, and the temperature
stood at 32°. A heavy fall of snow in large blotches
like a bunch of feathers. Piped down at nine. Called
all hands at six p. m. During our sleep the wind had
got to N. W., and was blowing in fresh squalls. The
sun occasionally appeared. The barometer had risen
to 29.42 at 35°, and the temperature was 30.5°. Got
under way at eight p. m., and by seven a. m.,

July 8th, Friday, had completed one mile after the
most disheartening and discouraging clay we have yet
had. The fresh N. W. wind had opened the ice in all
directions, except the one we wanted, and a constant
succession of ferriages and bridges fell to our lot. The
wind seemed very searching, and finally our customary
fog and misty rain set in, making us wet as well as cold.
We did not have dinner until two a. m., it taking us six
hours to make our first half mile. At three we turned
to again, and by seven went into camp. Supper at 7.30
a. m., piped down at nine a. m. Called all hands at six
p. M. ; at 7.45 snow-squall ; at eight p. m. got under
way, and, thanks to a good road, were able to push on
in such good style that at 12.05 a. m.,

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 631

July 9th, Saturday, we had advanced everything one
and one quarter miles, and had come to a halt for din-
ner. Our traveling to-day must make up for our mis-
haps and delays of yesterday. We can do well enough
when the ice holds together. It is only these ugly open-
ings which make us lose ground.

Now that we have two of the sleds lightened and the
clogs' work increased, I find that the men have to go
over the same ground four times each way, minus one,
and the dog teams five, minus one. This means that at
the first trip they bring up two sleds; second trip, two
sleds ; thircl trip, first cutter ; fourth trip, second cutter
and whaleboat, and, generally speaking, they and the
dog sleds finish the day's work at the same time. One
mile made, therefore, means seven miles traveled by
men, and nine by clog sleds. What with coming and go-
ing, ■ — getting ahead to select road and going back to
see the rear close up, — I am three times over our road
night and morning, and I know from my own sensations
how welcome the camping hour must be to Melville and
the men. Alexey stills hangs to his work, though under
the weather from indigestion. I learn from the doctor
that one cause of Alexey's clownheartedness lately was
because his father and uncle died from the same disor-
der, and he feared he was surely about to follow them ;
and another cause was his anxiety lest he should not
be paid because he was sick, and thus Aneguin would
get more money than he. He seems to have a won-
derful confidence in our ability to provide him with
everything, for he very seriously told the doctor yes-
terday that he would like some mutton ! When pem-
mican has to be fish, flesh, and fowl to us, his request
was somewhat amusing. The northwest wind continued
fresh while we were at dinner, and though we cowered

632 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

under the lee of the boats we were cold and miserable.
Our usual fog made things still more uncomfortable, and
I think no one was sorry when at 1.10 A. M. I gave the
order to turn to and go ahead.

A short distance from our dinner camp we saw a seal
igloo, where, no doubt, a seal had had her young. The
communicating hole to the water remained, but the
snow part or covering had melted away. Farther on
we saw some bear droppings several days old. We
have struck some old ice again, and our going promises
to be good. There are no signs of any openings, and I
hope to have accomplished three miles altogether by
the time we camp. This would be our best day's work
in that case.

Though this is old ice I do not mean to say it is
paleocrystic. It is of more than one year's growth.
Numerous snouts, smooth, hard, and in places muddy,
stick up above the level to a height of twelve and
fifteen feet, and I notice they all point to southeast,
as if the jam came from northwest. My German
chart says the prevailing winds at the New Siberian
Islands are from southwest and northwest in winter,
and it does seem as if we were having similar here.
Toward three a. m. the wind backed to W. N. W.
Sometimes snow, sometimes fine hail. Though we had
a good road, comparatively speaking, everybody was tir-
ing with the numerous " fleets," and it was not until 7.30
A. m. that the last boat was hauled into camp, — over
three miles accomplished since eight p. m. yesterday.

I am not sure that I make anything by this, for
everybody is fatigued, and, perhaps, will not be very
fresh for hauling this evening. We have one and one
half miles same kind of road flagged out ahead of us.
Supper at 8.30 a. m. Piped down at 9.30 a. m. Called

THE MARCH OVER TIIE FROZEN OCEAN. 633

all hands at six p. m. Breakfasted at seven p. m. The
wind went down during our sleep, and we found, on
awakening, a light west air, temperature 32.5°, barom-
eter 29.90 at 42°, and, wonderful to relate, some sun-
shine, with a promise of more by and by if our accus-
tomed fog does not intervene. The ends and undersides
of our sleeping-bags are now like pulp from wet, and
though enough hair remains dry inside to swear by,
there is not much comfort in them. Got under way at
eight p. m. One and one half miles by 12.15 a. m.,

July 10th, Sunday, at which time we halted for
dinner. We had had considerable sunshine thus far,
but now the fog began to shut down on us. Unfor-
tunately the lower meridian altitude is too low for me
to get it in an artificial horizon, and there has been
too much wind ruffling the ponds for me to use them
instead of mercury. So whenever the sun has shone
at midnight, which has not exceeded three times since
our start, I have only once got his altitude. To-day
we encountered considerable " needle ice," so called by
Parry, and by him attributed to the action of rain
drops. In our opinion this is caused by the more
rapid drawing away of the salt in some places than in
others, leaving bunches or tufts of long spikes. A
piece of honey-comb cut down through shows the same
general formation. In one or two places there were
large mats of it, trying alike to dogs' feet and mocca-
sins. Light airs and calms, with occasional snow-squalls.
At 1.15 A. m. turned to, and went ahead and had a fine
road. By five a. m. we had reached the end of the
smooth floe commenced on yesterday, and had come to
a lead separating almost entirely this floe from another,
and somewhat rougher, but still not difficult. Over a
small neck of connecting ice I pushed everything, lest

634 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

an opening should occur during our sleep, and at 6.40
a. m. pitched camp. In the lead several seals were
seen, but as soon as rifles were obtained they were re-
markable by their absence. Got a fair Sumner this
morning, from which I determine our position to be
latitude 77° 8' 30" N., longitude 151.38° E., a change
of position since the 3d of twenty-six and three quar-
ters miles S. 30° E. By account we have made about
sixteen miles southwest, so this shows how little can
be done with any certainty. Keeping on in our course
is all that can be accomplished, and, in my opinion, if
our longitude be right, a southwest course soonest
brings us to the edge of the ice.

Supper at 7.30. Divine service at 8.45. Piped down
at nine. After supper quite a little excitement was
created by the cry of land. To the southwest there
was something which certainly looked like land, but the
fog assumes so many deceiving forms that one cannot
be sure of anything. The nearest Siberian island is one
hundred and twenty miles from us, and, unless we are
going to discover new islands, I cannot believe that we
have seen land to-day. I think we made good three and
a quarter miles to-day in nine and one half hours' work.

At piping down, light northwest airs. Barometer
30.05 at 40°. Temperature 32°. Called all hands at
six p. M. Breakfast at seven p. m. Under way at 8.15
p. M. Some little delay was occasioned by my sending
around a bag and the following order : —

July Uth, 1881.

Officers in charge of tents will please have collected and
placed in this bag all loose ammunition. This bag will be car-
ried in the first cutter, and will be in my charge. In an emer-
gency, while marching, or encountering any game while under
way, any officer at hand may serve out ammunition at his dis-

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 635

cretion ; but when encamped, such serving out is to be done by
me. Respectfully, G. W. De Long,

Lieutenant Commanding.

Being somewhat backward in my writing, and hav-
ing a road marked out for half a mile ahead, I sent Mr.
Dunbar ahead, next the doctor with his road makers,
and then Melville and his haulers, while I remained be-
hind to write up my journal.

At nine I started forward and met Aneguin coming
back in haste for a rifle, saying that Mr. Dunbar had
seen a bear. Getting to the front, I met Mr. Dun-
bar, who, sure enough, had encountered Bruin, and
like a prudent man, having nothing more danger-
ous than a boarding-pike, took to his heels. While
turning a sharp corner, he met the bear at thirty yards
distance, and, upon retreating, was followed in chase for
a short spell. The bear then sat down and looked at
him, and, while Mr. Dunbar was waiting for a rifle,
waited conveniently in the neighborhood, leaving only
as Aneguin with the weapon came in sight. Chase was
given, but with the usual result — nil. By one a. m.,

July 11th, Monday, everything was advanced one
and a half miles, and I was counting upon completing
another three miles this day, when a lead was found
open a quarter of a mile from our dinner camp. Every
time I stopped before midnight I could hear the soft
roar of water lapping against ice, and I wTas not much
surprised when wrater was found close at hand. Turned
to at 1.50 a. m., and advanced everything to the lead by
3.50. The opening had widened considerably, and
several of them followed in close succession, requiring
ferrying and bridging, and at 6.40 a. m., when we
pitched camp, I am sorry to say we had advanced only
two miles altogether instead of three.

636 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

While waiting for everything to come up to the first
ferry, I was much struck with the unusual appearance
of the clouds to the southwest, which gave more indica-
tions of water than anything we had yet seen. Calling
Mr. Dunbar's attention to them, he expressed his opin-
ion that such clouds did not hang over ice. Climbing
to the top of a hummock twenty feet above the water-
level, and examining carefully with a glass, I saw un-
mistakable land and water. It now appears that this
was the land seen yesterday. At all events it is land,
sure enough, and water, too. What it may be no one
can say — whether newly discovered land, or (our lon-
gitude being out) some portion of Siberia. ]t can
hardly be any one of the Liakhoff Islands.

Another pleasant feature is our course, southwest be-
ing a straight line to it. My change from south to
southwest may therefore be a wise act, resulting in our
speedier liberation. Judging by ordinary distances, I
should say the land is ten to fifteen miles distant ; and
as I could see quite a large expanse of water, with long
streams of detached ice, it may be that once at the mar-
gin of this ice-field through which we are now toiling
wre may have open water to the Siberian coast, thus
verifying some part of the statement of Russian ex-
plorers. We have exploded so many theories of other
people that it will be hard to make us believe that we
can have left the ice behind us short of the Arctic
circle.

One month ago to-day our ship went down, and I do
not see any one the worse for the work that has fallen
to us since. That it is hard work there can be no dis-
pute. It is conceded by everybody to be the hardest
work they ever did. The drag, drag, the slips and
jerks, the sudden bringing up of the hauling belt across

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 637

the chest, are fearfully trying ; and the working with
pickaxes through flinty ice makes every bone ache.
From the looks of the weather at camping, I judge we
are in for a southeast blow. The sky is overcast, a
nasty fog shuts in everything. If we have a south-
easter we may be blown miles to the northwest before
we can get to this land or water.

Our cocoa and chocolate being exhausted (to my sat-
isfaction, for I like neither), we commenced this even-
ing (morning) on our tea, — one ounce per man is too
much, and I shall reduce it to a half ounce. Pipe down
at nine a. m. Men to stand watches of two hours.
Called all hands at six p. m. ; breakfast at seven for
everybody but No. 1, and wTe were delayed until 7.20 ;
occasionally the cooks get bothered with the stoves, and
this was the case with our cook, Ericksen, this morn-
ing. Found the barometer had fallen to 29.55 at 38°,
and the temperature risen to 35°. A thick fog shut in
everything at short distances, but we had so much wa-
ter around us that we seemed already to have reached
the margin of the ice. Rain fell at six p. m. heavily,
and the S. E. wind, which blew freshly during our
sleep, was now only a moderate breeze from south south-
west. At eight p. m. I took the dingy and went ahead to
look at our prospects. So much fog prevailed that from
the camp it was impossible to see the other side of the
water around us. Just after I started rain fell again,
but the wind shifted to southwest, and a clearing along
the horizon indicated a change for the better. I found
that in order to make any progress we must ferry our
things down a lead about three hundred yards in length,
and then drag them across an intervening floe piece to
another lead which we must cross. Emptying the first
and second cutters at nine p. m., they were made to

638 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

serve as ferry boats. Hauling loose packages, tents,
sleeping-bags, knapsacks, and even dogs and dog sleds
was easy enough, but the loaded sleds gave much an-
noyance, lest improper managing should damage a
boat. Using the first cutter alone for this purpose, and
hauling one sled at a time over the stern, two trips
were made, and then I took her and gave her the two
remaining sleds to carry, one over the bow and one
over the stern, while six of us got amidships to distrib-
ute weight while we hauled her over. It was risky, I
admit, but I did not want to lose the time which would
be required to unload, load, and relash the four heavy
sleds. I do not think, as it was, we made more than
one quarter of a mile good when the arrival of —

July 12th, Tuesday, gave the signal of halting for
dinner, which we ate at one A. m. The weather was sen-
sibly colder, and the wind had veered to the west. The
sun began to show brightly, and we could see for some
distance. The ice ahead of us had all opened with the
change of wind, and ferrying was the order of the day.
Though not disagreeable work it is at times fearfully
slow, particularly when no suitably sized pieces are at
hand, and we have to take an island as long as a mail
steamer, and seven to ten feet thick, for a ferry boat.
However, over we went, traversed two floes one quar-
ter of a mile each in extent, and, finally, at 6.30 A. M.,
halted and camped on an island of ice five hundred
yards in diameter, and averaging ten feet in thickness,
as the best camping place available. Our outlook was
not encouraging. Lanes of water not large enough
to help us, but wide enough to bother us, and some
rough-looking ice lay before us for our next task. The
wind had got to northwest and the weather was bright
and sunny, but somewhat squally. Distance made

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 639

good one and a half miles. Nothing could be seen of
the land and water we saw yesterday. The southwest
horizon was foggy. Many dovekies (guillemots) were
seen, several gulls, one auk, and, strange to say, the
doctor picked up a live butterfly, which I have pre-
served. This last is not an habitue of the ice, and was
certainly blown from the land by the southeaster of
yesterday, or by the south wester which followed it.

Supper at 7.30 A. m. Nobody under our conditions
could write very fully all the occurrences of a day, and
I am very glad before turning in each morning to re-
member even as much as I write. The hundred trials
and difficulties in getting along, the heavy hauling, etc.,
are regular, and once mentioned need no repetition.
No doubt, one of these days I can more satisfactorily
describe our march over the frozen ocean, but just now
these rough notes must suffice. Sounded in twenty-
three fathoms ; muddy bottom, rapid drift S. E. Piped
down at nine A. M. Called all hands at six P. m. ;
breakfasted at seven p. m. ; fresh N. W. wind ; ba-
rometer, 30.05 at 40° ; thermometer, 31° ; cloudy and
foggy ; under way at eight p. m. Immediately we had
to ferry all our things across from the island on which
we camped to the one alongside of it, and from there
to adjoining ones, and at 12.30 A. m.,

July loth, Wednesday, we had only made one half
mile good, reaching then a strip of ice about a mile
long. Halted for dinner, and at 1.50 went ahead
again. Traversed this one mile piece, and then came
to an opening about two hundred feet wide, separating
us from an ice-island, which on the opposite side was
near enough to a floe piece to make access easy. By
great good luck there were three large cakes floating
along this two hundred foot opening ; we seized on

640 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

them, dragged them into position for a bridge, and
were thus able to proceed without much delay. Be-
yond them was a long, flat floe one half mile in extent
northeast and southwest, and probably five miles north-
west and southeast. As we only took so much of it as
was on our course, the one half mile was all that we
traversed, and at 6.35 A. m. halted and camped, satis-
fied that our one and three fourths miles were well
made. While the boats were being brought up, Mr.
Dunbar and I took the dingy and went clown the lead
at which our floe terminated, to see what it promised.
It resulted in nothing except giving me a high hum-
mock from which I could see well around me. I at
once made up my mind that to go on our course to-
morrow would be impossible. For not only did we have
a fearful half mile of repeated ferryings before we
reached good ice again, but the unloading of the boats,
and a whole day, would be thus involved. By going
across the lead due west we had a level floe running
west southwest for two miles, which then connected
with good ice, and would enable us to resume our course
southwest. This I decided to be my plan of action on
again breaking camp. Returning to our camping place
I a^ain saw the curious-lookinn; clouds noticed in the
southwest on the 11th, and looked anxiously for the
same land and water then seen, but was disappointed.
Shortly after Mr. Dunbar came to me and said he saw
the open water. After some looking in vain, I at last
saw it, with ice-streams in it, but no land, and judging
from relative distances and my range of view, I think
it was inside of eight miles southwest. The weather
since midnight had been dull and gloomy. Large
ponds, larger than any we had yet seen, were crossed,
and more lay beyond us. These, and the remarkable

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 641

looseness of the ice, led us to infer that we were near
open water. As a good clear horizon would decide this
question beyond doubt at any time, our foggy weather
is all the more deplorable before camping.

And now occurred the first serious breach of disci-
pline among the crew since our commissioning, over
two years ago, and on the part of a man whose con-
duct has been so uniformly beyond reproach as to make
it the more surprising. It appears that Melville had
placed a pair of soles in the stern of one of the boats,
and the shaking of the boat in dragging had shifted
them on the sleeping-bag of Ed. Starr (seaman). Upon
halting to camp, Starr went to the boat, picked up the
soles, and flung them some distance on the ice, in a tem-
per. Melville informed him they belonged to him, and
ordered Starr to pick them up, at the same time saying,
" Don't do that again." To the order Starr paid no at-
tention, but growled something about wet soles and his
sleeping-bag, and he did not care whose they were.
Hearing Melville repeating his order, and Starr making
argumentative and sulky replies, I went to the scene,
and to my surprise found Starr showing no intention to
pick up the soles, but continuing to speak in a surly and
disrespectful manner. I at once ordered him to stop
talking, and to obey Mr. Melville's order. He paid no
attention to either order, but continued his rummaging
in the boat ; and his growl continued, " A nice place to
put wet boot soles," etc., etc. And it was only upon
my three or four times repeated order to pick up those
soles that he did so. But to my order to keep silent
he paid no obedience till he apparently had no more to
say. I ordered him to stand apart from everybody,
and in a few moments asked him if he had anything to
say in explanation of his conduct, — disobedience of Mr.
41

642 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANXETTE.

Melville's orders, and disobedience of the orders of his
commanding officer. He had nothing to say beyond
mildly offering a statement that he did not know Mr.
Melville was speaking to him, which, to say the very
least, is preposterous. I at once put him off duty.

Piped down at nine A. m. Called all hands at six
p. m. Breakfasted at seven p. m. A clear, bright even-
ing and calm. Upon looking to the southwest a land-
like appearance was to be seen, and several declared
they could also see the water. The sun at this hour
strikes at right angles, nearly, to anything southwest,
and consequently prevents clear views. But if we
can hold this bright weather until four a. m. to-morrow,
the sunlight will then be at our backs, and upon the
supposed land and water, and we can have a good pos-
itive view.

Under way at eight p. m. Crossed the lead near the
camp, and swung along on a west southwest course, as
mentioned in my remarks at camping. During our
sleep, however, several small openings had occurred in
the large ice floe, and we found ourselves obliged to
bridge. It was not until 12.30 a. m.,

July lAth, Thursday, that we had reached the good
ice, and were enabled to lay out a track on our south
southwest course. We now halted for dinner. At tw7o
hours before midnight a breeze had sprung up from
northwest and brought up masses of fog, which soon
spread over the whole sky, and during our dinner we
were dampened and chilled by the change from the
bright sunlight.

I have hitherto forgotten to mention that within a
few days some of our dogs have been attacked with
fits. First, the dog Jim ; his fit took him while in har-
ness, and lasted for some time after he was cut adrift.

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 643

ISot much foaming at the mouth, but long continued
shaking, as if suffering from cold. Next, Foxy had a
bad fit. Then Tom had a queer sort of attack ; he
acted as if dizzy, and spun around for a minute or two
before attacking his partner in the harness, Wolf, which
he did as if thinking Wolf answerable for it. With
Tom it has seemed to stop, for two days have elapsed
without any new cases. Foxy now heads the team
which the doctor has to draw the dingy, which team
consists of seven of our poorest dogs. Ericksen has
seven of our best. Alexey seven good ones. Poor
Jack (Joe), with the lame back, has been accidentally
left behind at some lead or other, and the remainder
are so mean that they are not worth hitching up.
Turned to at 1.50 A. m. and went ahead, and though
the road was somewhat ugly, requiring much road-
making and some bridging, at 6.20 a. m. we had ac-
complished two and a half good miles, and went into
camp.

The weather remained anything but satisfactory.
Sometimes the sun broke through the fog and gave
promise of pleasant weather, but fresh volumes of fog
rolled up from the northwest and shut in everything.
When we camped we had a succession of snow-squalls.

I noticed during the day that the small ponds on the
ice were freezing over, and upon camping I was struck
with the fact that upon the thin ice was plainly visible
the " efflorescence," or expressed salt. If the fact that
this pond water remained liquid below the temperature
of fresh water freezing were not sufficient proof that
it contained salt, the oozing out of the efflorescence
after it does freeze is surely proof positive. Our men's
boot-soles are wearing out so rapidly on the sharp ice
over which we are traveling; that their demands for

644 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

repairs exceed our supply. I have already author-
ized the use of the leather from the dingy's oars, and
this morning I had to have the leather cut off the first
cutter's steering oar for patches. This leather will last
longer than skin patches, it is true, but I hope the time
is not far distant when I can have at least this one care
and anxiety removed from my mind. Supper at 7.20
a. m. Piped clown at nine a. m. Called all hands at six
p. m. Breakfast at seven p. m. Moderate N. W. wind ;
weather dull and gloomy, with some fog. Under way
at 8.15 p. m., some little time having been lost in har-
nessing up the dogs. Some of them, during our sleep,
devoted themselves to eating the hide part of two har-
nesses carelessly placed within their reach. There were
no less than eleven openings in the ice ahead of us
before dinner, and we had to bridge and watch three
of them. In momentary fear that all eleven might open
and give us any amount of trouble, I hurried every-
thing along with all speed, and I am satisfied that by
one a. m. we had made a good mile and a half.

July 15th, Friday. — Before midnight the horizon to
the northwest began to brighten, and there were indica-
tions of a clearing. The heavy masses of fog and clouds
began to roll away, and occasional glimpses could be had
of the sun and blue sky, with cirro-cumulus clouds which
seemed to me to be rising from the southeast. By mid-
night the sky was clearing also to the west and south-
west, and I was beginning to peer around for our land
and water, when I saw Aneguin ahead of me on a high
hummock looking intently to the westward. Hasten-
ing forward, he showed me a long black streak on the
western horizon, calling it an island. I looked, but saw
what I called water, and so it proved upon getting my
glasses. I saw the long, regular curve mentioned on

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN. 645

the 13th, and, perhaps, the same seen on the 11th. I
certainly think it is the open ocean. As from our ele-
vation our horizon could not exceed six miles, I feel sat-
isfied that the edge of the ice must be within that dis-
tance, and as the point of the land came down in the
middle of the water it is equally evident that we shall
come to the water before reaching the land. As the
land now bears S. 60° W. magnetic (about W. by S.
true) we have been drifting a long distance to the
southeast, or else we are very close to it, for a change of
bearing of five points has occurred in fifty-two hours.
We have not had wind enough during that time to
make any very extensive drift, and our course has been
steadily southwest. All things taken into considera-
tion, therefore, I assume that we are near land and
water, and I decide upon resuming our march after
dinner, to head W. by S. directly for both. During
dinner (1.40 to 2.20) we saw the moon for the first
time, I think, in two months, and what was more satis-
factory we saw a seal in a lead near us, and Mr. Collins
shot him, while the dingy this time got him before he
sunk. Upon resuming the march at 2.20, therefore,
we headed W. by S. (true), and I directed Mr. Dunbar
to take Aneguin with him and go ahead a prudent dis-
tance to see whether we were really approaching the
open sea, without paying attention to the movements
of the sleds. I was certain that Mr. Dunbar and
Aneguin could go three miles while we were advancing
half a mile, and from this three miles a better view
could be obtained, and a more correct opinion formed
as to its remoteness. If the water were only six miles
off, going three miles toward it would permit a very ac-
curate estimate of the remaining distance. Mr. Dunbar
carried a rifle and ammunition and some pemmican.

646 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXNETTE.

By 5.50 A. m. we had advanced everything three
quarters of a mile, and then had come to a smooth place
for camping, the only suitable place except one at a
much greater distance than I thought we could make
in reasonable time. Camped therefore and very for-
tunately, for no sooner were the tents pitched than it
commenced to rain steadily. The wind had backed to
west northwest, the sky had become covered with
clouds, generally in north and south lines.

The seal comes in splendidly for two things, — food,
and grease for our leaking boots. Before camping I had
Iversen break off from boat-hauling, and set to work
on the preparation of pussy. Removing the backbone
and blubber the meat was cut up into small pieces
for convenience in stewing, and the amount, twenty
lbs., proportionally divided among the five tents. A
similar division was made of the blubber, so that I am
sure each man got his share for his food and for greas-
ing his boots. Extra alcohol for cooking (2 oz. of salt),
and a potful of broken bread to each tent, — seemed
to promise a good supper. At 7.15 A. m. we sat down
in No. 1 tent to a simply delicious repast. After our
long diet of pemmican the change alone was a luxury.
We did not stand upon our ship ideas of hanging the
seal up until the animal heat had departed, or keeping
it for a few days. The seal was shot at 2.30, skinned
at four, and eaten at seven, and we feel as if we had
dined at Delmonico's. Our seven thirty-thirds of
twenty lbs: were cut up in small lumps, boiled in water,
three and one half ounces Liebig added, one pint bread
crumbs added to that, and salt to the extent of one
ounce, and for a feast I shall long remember it. No. 4
tried to fry their six thirty-thirds, and so very success-
fully that Melville says the taste was like fried oysters !

THE MARCH OVER THE FROZEN OCEAN.

647

At 7.30 Mr. Dunbar and Aneguin returned, and I
was informed of the result of their journey. They went
about three and one half miles, and Mr. Dunbar says
he thinks they were half way to the open water. He
was raising it very fast, but the land remained as dis-
tant as ever, — that is, he could see nothing but the
faint snow curve which we have seen all along. Evi-
dently, then, the land is distant, and may be, after all,
one of the Liakhoff Islands. But I thank God that our
chances seem so good for a speedy getting afloat, and
thus rendering comparatively easy our access to it.
Piped down at nine A. M. Called all hands at six p. M.

Weather, curiously enough, bright and pleasant,
though from the temperature (34° in the sun) one
would expect our customary fog.

Under way at eight p. m. Had " a rocky road " ahead
of us with some digging, and, though we crossed several
leads, but one bridging had to be done.

CHAPTER XIV.

BENNETT ISLAND.

16 July — 5 August, 1881.

Nearer View of the Island. — A Narrow Escape from Drowning. —
Open Water in Various Directions. — Crimson Snow. — Perplex-
ing Views of the Island. — Land or Water? — Making for the
Land. — Impassable Roads. — Needle Ice. — Walrus. — Rotten
Ice. — Confusion of the Moving Ice. — Clear Weather and New
Views. — Recourse to Boats. — Fearful Work. — The Constant
Change of the Ice. — Drifting Away from the Island. — How Re-
lief is called. — Sudden Discovery of a Cliff. — A Rush for the
Island. — A Terrible Landing. — Taking Possession of Bennett
Island. — Plan of Operation. — Assignment of Work. — Geolog-
ical Foundation of the Island. — Tidal Observations. — Reconnois-
sance by Mr. Dunbar. — Coal on the Island. — Mr. Chipp sent on
an Expedition. — Return of Mr. Dunbar. — His Report. — Disa-
greeable Weather. — Return of Mr. Chipp. — Record made for
Deposit. — The Cold Storm. — Shooting of Dogs.

July l§th, Saturday. — By 12.30 a. m. we had made
a good mile from our camp, and halted for dinner. The
weather continued bright and pleasant, and a few cir-
rus clouds were all that could be observed. The island
shows more plainly than yesterday, but no water could
be seen. At two a. m. resumed our march, and advanced
everything another good half a mile by 5.30 a. m. Here
there was but a poor place to camp, and, as I was closely
occupied with getting sights, I sent Mr. Dunbar ahead
to choose a place. He informed me that a quarter of a
mile ahead there was a good place, and that, though

BENNETT ISLAND. 649

there had been several leads open, they were now
closed, and we might sled right over. I gave the order,
therefore, to go ahead, and returned to my work of a
Sumner. As I have to carry my instrument box on a
dog sled, my movements and those of the sled do not
correspond, and I generally have to send to the rear to
get my box brought up, and keep by it during the in-
terval between sights to prevent it getting out of my
reach. Mr. Dunbar had gone ahead to get a good hum-
mock to look for the water. Much time elapsed with-'
out Melville coming back for the second fleet, and I
could not understand why. Finally I rushed ahead,
with my sextant in one hand and my artificial horizon
in the other, and at last found the cause of the delay ;
the ice had opened again, and left us in a fearful mess.
The dog sleds had got over and discharged, but could
not get back, and Melville was trying to get his two
sleds out of the snarl in which he found himself. I saw
we were in for a time, and so it was ; for not until nine
A. M. did we get all our traps into camp, requiring three
hours for what we expected to do in one. However,
we are consoled, for Mr. Collins shot a seal meanwhile,
the dingy got him, and we have another luxurious sup-
per ahead.

Previous to getting sights, I had a mishap which wTas
annoying. Going to the top of a hummock to take a
look at the land, Mr. Dunbar and I had to go out of the
road and jump some rather wide openings. Going was
all right, but jumping across a four foot opening the ice
broke under me as I jumped, and I went into the water
up to my neck. My clothes held me up for a moment,
and Mr. Dunbar grabbed me by the hood, as he thought,
but by the whiskers principally, as I realized, for he
nearly took my head off. My knapsack was away to

650

THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

the rear, and I sent Johnson back for it when I reached
the dingy. However, I soon got dry clothes on, and,
thanks to the bright sun, my wet ones were soon dry-
ing. By capsizing of a dog sled we lost 270 pounds of
pemmican. Mr. Newcomb shot a bird new to us, — a
Mollemokki. The event of the day, however, was the
seal, — a fine, large, fat one, giving us food and boot
grease. Not much less in importance was the appear-
ance of a walrus, — the first one seen by us in a very,
very long time. Though fired at and hit by Mr. Col-
lins and Nindemann, he remained under water finally
after many reappearances.

The land showed somewhat plainly to-day, but I
could see no water. Mr. Dunbar thinks he saw it,
about seven a. m., to the left of the land, but I do not
think he wras right.

Supper at 10.15 a. m. Our seal was simply delicious.
As it was so late (11.05) when we had finished supper,
I concluded to sit up for a meridian altitude, which,
when obtained, gave me 76° 41' N. for our latitude,
agreeing fairly with my Sumner, roughly plotted as
it was. I shall now work my first sight over, with this
correct latitude, and see our exact position.

BENNETT ISLAND. G51

As we heave started the Irshings of No. 1 sled, and as,
in anticipation of rough roads ahead, I have concluded
to lighten its load anyhow, we have some work ahead
of us before our next march, and shall probably make
a late start ; I therefore, on piping down at 11.15, or-
dered all hands to be called at eight p. m. Wind light
northwest ; barometer 30.40 at 40° ; thermometer 31° ;
sky beginning to cover with cirrus and cirro-cumulus
clouds.

Called all hands at eight p. M. ; light west breeze,
overcast sky ; breakfasted at nine p. m. Chipp was dis-
charged from the sick-list, and returned to duty. This
relieves Melville, who now takes charge of the road
and bridge making, in place of the doctor, who now
becomes a reserve.

Set to work repairing and lightening Nos. 1 and 2
sleds. Sent Mr. Dunbar ahead to flag out, and upon his
return he told me he had seen the water. I now was
able to see it from a hummock alongside the camp, and
it was to the right of the island. The island itself was
much plainer in sight than ever. I am again in hopes
that we have made another discovery.

Working my longitude over with correct latitude, I
find we are in 76° 41' N., and 153° 30' E. Soundings,
twTenty-three fathoms - — mud.

This brings me along to —

July 17th, Sunday, upon the arrival of which wTe
promptly sat down to dinner. Turned to at one A. m.,
and started ahead, leaving Mr. Cole and a sled crew to
finish lashing and bring on No. 4 sled. At two hun-
dred yards from camp we had some bridging to do, and
five hundred yards further some more serious. How-
ever, Melville managed it well, and Chipp lost no time
in jumping things across, and we finally reached a

652 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

stretch of hard ice, over which we could make good
time, so that, by 6.45 A. m., I am satisfied we had
made one and a half miles good. We then halted and
camped.

During our march, from the top of a hummock we
saw the water to the right and left of the island, and
on the right, through spaces between hummocks, we
could see it continue for a short distance. Believing
we were close to it Mr. Dunbar went ahead one and
a half of his miles, and kept raising the water very
fast. From his turning point, he says, he thinks the
water about twice as far as he went, making its dis-
tance four and a half miles. After he returned we
advanced half a mile more, so that, upon camping,
we ought not to be more than four miles off. The
land seemed as distant as ever. He says the ice is very
much better, much of it being smooth and of last win-
ter's growth, and thinks in two days we can reach the
water. But we shall see.

To-day I saw some faint " crimson snow " and sev-
eral pieces of muddy ice. A very curious seal trick
came to light by my breaking through the ice. He
had two holes leading from the sea connected by a
covered way under the snow ?nd thin crust. T suppose
it was to give him a resort in case a bear headed him
off. On the ice, by one hole, was a cavity in which
the seal had lain and rubbed the shedding hair off his
skin.

Supper at 7.45 A. m. Divine service at 8.30. Piped
down at nine. Called all hands at six p. M. ; breakfasted
at seven p. M. Under way at eight p. m. About one
quarter of a mile from the camp we came to our first
opening in the ice, which, simple enough for the lead-
ing dog sled, became very difficult for the heavy sleds

BENNETT ISLAND. 653

and boats, because of a sudden widening. Two other
leads beyond widened also, and altogether we had a
very delicate amount of work, requiring much care and
attention.

Anxious to see what Mr. Dunbar saw before camp-
ing, I hastened forward with him to the same high
ridge at which he stopped, and which commanded a
good view. Here, to my unpleasant surprise, I could
see land enough, but no water ; and though Mr. Dun-
bar averred he could see water with streaks of ice in it,
I felt inclined to think it was an effect of refraction.
After undergoing many kaleidoscopic changes, I be-
gan to believe it had settled into land and water, both.
The whole back curve remained as a dim outline, but
lower down there were apparently dark cliffs and snow
patches, but infinitely less distinct and regular. The
more I looked the more confused I became, and Mr.
Dunbar was nonplussed. At one time I was ready to
declare that nothing but ice extended to the land ; at
another, that the land was very distant, and that we
were near an open ocean, with pieces of drifting ice ;
and again, that mirage had raised and inverted ice
hummocks and small peaks, and that there was neither
land nor water. This last I abandoned, however, be-
cause the light curve above had been too often seen
and too well maintained its regularity to be an effect
of refraction. I sat and studied this thing for an hour,
watching every change carefully with a glass, and I
finally made up my mind that part of the dark looking
mass was land, but that the lower strata was certainly
water. I decided, however, to send Dunbar and the
doctor ahead after dinner, to look nearer and speak
more surely. Turning back to see what kept Chipp
and the boats behind, I learned of the serious ice-open-

654 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

ings, and, having got everything advanced a good three
quarters of a mile since breaking camp, I halted at
midnight and prepared for dinner. Just then Mr. Col-
lins called out to me, " Captain, is that land or water? "
Looking south, where he pointed, behold there were
some more uncertainties. "Was this land or water ? If
land, then we had seen no water west. If water, then
our only land west was the faint curve drawn above
and very distant. I was fairly staggered, and Mr. Dun-
bar looked as if he had been dropped from the clouds.
It was a confusing moment to me. The south appear-
ance indicated much greater distance, and if I made for
it a S. E. wind might spring up and drift me away from
it faster than I could go toward it, and I might, by
going to the westward, reach the land or water before
a southeaster set me away from it. I decided to await
the result of the trip of Dunbar and the doctor.

July 18th, Monday. — At 12.50 A. m. ahead went
those two gentlemen, and at 1.15 A. m. we moved along
with our effects. After crossing two small leads we
struck a long piece — two miles — of smooth ice, made
last winter, and got along splendidly. Next to the
smooth ice was a long floe of hard, older ice (two miles),
and I was beginning to contemplate a good clay's work
when some unexpected openings occurred among the
last winter's ice and threw us back somewhat, and, in
consequence, when I halted and camped on the old ice
at 5.40 A. m., I think we had barely made two miles
good since our breakfast. |

The weather had remained pleasant. The sun was
frequently obscured, and enabled us to dispense from
time to time with our snow-glasses, to the great relief
of many who have difficulty in wearing them. Light
west airs, the clouds having a slow motion from that
direction.

BENNETT ISLAND. 655

At six A. m. the doctor and Mr. Dunbar returned.
They had gone, they thought, four miles ahead of our
dinner-camp, and from there had concluded they saw
no icater at all, but all land ; and, though they could
form no estimate of the distance of the land, they
thought the ice extended to its base. This is slightly
different from the " open water in two days," but it
cannot be helped. After mature consideration, I have
decided to keep on heading for the land for several
days yet. From the manner in which we have raised
it in two days, I hope it is less distant than supposed ;
and, as the appearance south can no longer be seen, it
is evident that the land west is the nearer. Chipp says
he saw a similar appearance north this morning.

If we can get on this land, we shall, at all events,
know that we are stationary, and that the wind will not
carry us around aimlessly. Unless the Liakhoff Islands
are incorrectly charted, this land is not one of them, for
the northern point on the chart is still south of west
considerably of our position on the 16th. If there
ever was open water north of these Liakhoff Islands, as
stated by Wrangel, Anjou, and Hedenstrom, we may
get to it from the south side of this land. " A bird in
the hand is worth two in the bush," and I will head for
what I can plainly see, instead of bearing away across
a shifting sea of ice for something which I cannot see.

Supper at 6.30 a. m. Piped down at nine A. m.
Called all hands at six p. m. Breakfasted at seven p. m.
Bright and absolutely cloudless. Thermometer 31°.
Temperature inside tent No. 6, 48.5°. Under way at
eight p. m., and immediately had a stretch of three
fourths of a mile, over good ice, bringing up at a lead
two hundred yards wide. In this we secured a large

656

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

floe piece, and having everything on it by 10.15 P. M.,
we ferried across. Then we had a mile of splendid
going over smooth ice, and when we halted for dinner
at 12.30 a. m., —

July 19th, Tuesday, I am sure we had made one and
three fourths miles good, over a west and north (true)
course. The weather bright and sunny, a few cirro-
cumulus clouds only having appeared in the northeast.
The wind remained at south, and seemed inclined to
freshen. The land was in plain sight, and though I
was so puzzled yesterday, I am not satisfied yet that
there is no water.

Turned to at 1.50 a. m. and went ahead. For two
miles we had a good road, and then we came to a fear-
ful mess of small ice lumps and water, with a rare large
block. It was the kind of ice over which one might
walk, but dragging anything was out of the question,
while a boat would be knocked to pieces. Some fear-
ful disturbance has occurred here at some time or other,
and huge blocks have been reared up on end, and at
all anodes. Traveling looks something like this : —

BENNETT ISLAND. 657

In vain I climbed np several large hummocks and
kept Mr. Dunbar running around in quest of a better
place for crossing. Melville had already commenced
the herculean task of digging away some of these huge
slabs to level a road, in case we could manage the wa-
ter-gaps, which seemed almost impossible, when the
doctor said he had seen what he thought a better way
of crossing farther to the northward. We hastened to
the spot, and by some work and management, I think
we can get across this mess and on the level ice beyond.
But it was now six a. m. and our usual supper time,
and we had made nearly four miles. The work of cross-
ing would probably require three hours ; so, instead of
continuing at once, I decided to get supper first and
proceed afterwards. I am too anxious to leave this
mess behind us, to camp on this side of it, and though
we have made a good three and one fourth miles
already, I must keep the men at it for a little while
longer. The barometer is falling rapidly, 29.95 at 44°,
and though the temperature is 31°, I anticipate a S. E.
wind, and do not want to lose the grip I almost feel I
have on the land.

The action of the ice in formation is nicely shown
by blocks of wasted (needle) ice, which we pick up and
can pull in pieces. The doctor called my attention to-
day to the distinct manner in which the hexagonal
prisms were visible, and the vacuole, as well as the lines
of successive freezing. The formation is like that of
muriate of ammonia, or the basaltic columns in Fin-
gal's Cave. The blocks can be easily separated, flake
by flake, vertically, and at each freezing line horizon-
tally. (See Appendix G.)

By 7.20 a. m. everything was up to the edge of the
rotten pack, and we sat down as soon as possible to
42

658 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

supper. The sky remained nearly cloudless, and the
sun shone brightly. As everybody was complaining of
the heat, I exposed a thermometer to the sun, getting
35°. At 8.40 A. m. turned to and set to work, and from
this time to three p. m. we had the hardest time we
have had yet. Such a mess of loose cakes, rotten ice,
water holes, and pack ice I have never seen. We
tried everything, bridging, road-making, and finally,
by means of rope, to join the moving mass together.
Everything succeeded for a few moments, and then
came to nothing; and it was only by rushes and jumps
and risks that we got everything on solid ice and
camped, — four and a quarter miles good. Towards
noon clouds rose rapidly from the southward, and cov-
ered the sky so as to prevent my getting a latitude,
which I very much desired. Called all hands at eleven
p. m., and at midnight sat down to breakfast. Sound-
ings in twenty- two and one half fathoms.

July 20th, Wednesday. — Hard as our work was last
night I congratulate myself that it was not left till this
morning, for we have a thick fog, which would have
made our task an impossibility. Temperature 27°, due
to the evaporation, for the pools on the ice show not
the slightest sign of freezing. Found Foxy dead in
the water. He probably had a fit and fell in.

Got under way at 1.30 A. m., and though our work was
not so difficult as yesterday, it was still sufficiently try-
ing, and by the time we had succeeded in getting all our
things across the one half mile intervening between the
hard ice on which we camped and the long level plain
beyond, it was six a. m. and I decided to go no further.
Tents were accordingly pitched and preparations made
for supper. While loading the first detachment of sleds
on a cake of ice for ferrying, we were surprised by see-

BENNETT ISLAND. 659

ing a walrus come up alongside us, and apparently in-
tent upon getting on our cake too. Mr. Collins hurried
along with his gun and fired at him, hitting him near the
eye. Down went the walrus, and we thought we had
seen the last of him. Soon after, however, we heard a
sound of hard "blowing" to the northward of us, among
the fearful mess of broken ice, and looking along in
that direction, we could see large patches of blood on
the ice where it had been ejected in breathing. The
doctor at once set out on the hard ice to the west, and
Mr. Collins on that to the east, while I sent Mr. Dunbar
along to the scene. Soon I heard a shot and a cry for
a rope, and then four more shots, and, in fine, we killed
him and secured the game.

While the doctor was firing at him the walrus was in
the water, and, no doubt, if he had been killed at once
he would have sunk, but while stunned for a moment,
Mr. Dunbar cut a hole in a flipper with a knife, and
rove in it the doctor's belt, and then one more shot fin-
ished him. We hauled him clown to camp. He was a
young bull, from 1,200 to 1,500 pounds in weight, —
more meat than we and the dogs can eat under the
circumstances. The choice parts, tenderloin, sirloin,
heart, liver, brain, and flippers, will more than suffice
for three meals for us, and the dogs may eat all day if
they like. The skin will be cut up into pieces and di-
vided for boot soles. The tusks go to Mr. Collins, one
of which he gave to the doctor. In the walrus's stom-
ach there were shrimps and small fish like smelt, and
numerous sea anemones or sea cucumbers (?).

Fog cleared away about four A. m., but weather re-
mained cloudy and dull. No land in sight up to seven
A. M.

We found our walrus stew excellent. It was not as

660 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

good as seal stew, the meat being coarser and .not
so sweet. We shall repeat for breakfast, and carry as
much as we can conveniently in the dingy. Piped
down at nine A. m. Called all hands at six p. m. Noth-
ing visible on account of fog.

Breakfast should have been ready at Seven p. m., but
as both our supper and breakfast were cooked by burn-
ing blubber, much longer time was required, and it was
not until 7.45 that we in No. 1 sat down to our meal.
The saving in alcohol has been effected at the expense
of time.

Under way at 8.30 p. m., and after advancing three
quarters of a mile over our course, W. and S. (magnetic)
we came to a broken and confused mass of water and
ice, much resembling our recent serious experience,
and here I halted the leading sleds. Two of our Mc-
Clintock sleds had received some hard usage in our
troublous trip over the " mess" on the 19th, and needed
relashing, and the dingy sled was crippled, one runner
being doubled under entirely. Ericksen's dog sled was
also hors de combat, and much work was thus in readi-
ness for Sweetman. This delayed us considerably, for
I could not attempt to cross the rotten and ugly mess
before us with crippled sleds, and I dared not leave any-
thing behind me.

At eleven p. m. the wind had got to N. E. and com-
menced to blow. Rain fell also, and seemed likely to
fall for some time. The ice in the opening (one quarter
of a mile of lumps, hummocks, and floebergs) commenced
moving, and I began to fear it was now impossible to
cross. Altogether it was a dreary prospect. Every-
body was getting wet. We could not advance over a
living, moving, rotting pack, and the increasing wind
promised a gale. So I concluded to pitch the tents
where we were, as a shelter, and get dinner.

BENNETT ISLAND. 661

July 21st, Thursday. — At one a. m. the tents came
along, and the cooking stoves, and while the cooks
pitched camp and prepared dinner, Chipp took the rest
of the men back and brought forward the dingy, with
walrus meat enough for supper. At two a. m. dinner
was ready, alcohol being used as fuel. Rain still con-
tinued in squalls, and the ice in front of us was moving
before the moderate northeast gale. Clearly this was
a case of a lost day, and I accepted the situation.

At 5.30 a. m. the land showed quite plainly between
W. S. W. and a half W., and W. by N. Soundings in
twenty-two fathoms, and a rapid drift W. S. W. (two
points to right of leeward). Supper at seven a. m., and
as our bags were the most comfortable things we had
at our disposal, we in No. 1 crawled into them at eight
a. m. Piped down at nine a. m. During the sleeping
time the wind tore around our tents in fierce gusts,
threatening to pull them out and whirl them away.
Rain fell from time to time. Called all hands at six
p. m. Breakfasted at seven p. M. Ice still moving in
the lead. Land in plain sight, and much nearer too,
extending from S. 87° W. to N. 56° W., both magnetic.
Wind strong from east, but moderating somewhat.

The confusion before us was such that I dared not
risk trying to cross anything. Large blocks, small
lumps, and floebergs were moving along to the south-
ward, and occasionally a large piece, seemingly free,
would suddenly be shot up in the air as it was squeezed
by larger ones, or its submerged portions became freed
from overriding masses. If one of our sleds had been
caught in such a predicament, or one of our boats, the
result w^ould not be doubtful. The wind seemed in-
clined to freshen again, and going ahead was oiit of the
question. A quarter of a mile of this living, moving
ice would hold a Goliath back.

662 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Looking further north we saw the most promising
place jet, which seemingly offered an easy transit
across the narrowest part of this ice channel. Send-
ing Mr. Dunbar ahead to pick out the road, I hurried
back to bring up the sleds, and at 9.35 p. m. we com-
menced our first forward movement. Some little pick-
axe work gave us a fairly good road, though three jams
were threatening to relax and leave water gaps every
movement. In fact, hardly had we got the boats
through than one of them opened. Meanwhile, a cold
fog had shut us in and hidden the island from our
sight.

July 22d, Friday. — As but one sled or one boat
could be hauled at one time through the passageway
above described, it was one a. m. before our last boat
was through, and we halted for dinner. We were on a
good piece of hard ice, lumpy, but giving fair traveling.
This was separated from a much larger piece of hard,
old, smooth ice by another ugly mess, which we could
get over if it held together ; but it was threatening to
open at any moment.

Before dinner I had sent Melville forward to cut a
road, which was done, and by great good fortune at
2.20 a. m., when we turned to, we got everything
through without trouble. Before us there lay a mile
of excellent going, which we took so well that at 5.45
A. m., when I pitched camp, I felt satisfied that two
miles might be scored as made good from our starting-
point at 9.35 p. m. yesterday.

Dunbar and I had gone half a mile further ahead on
hard, smooth ice (after passing a ridge at which we
camped), and were then brought to a stand by some
more confused mess, across and beyond which the fog
prevented us from seeing. Though we might have

BENNETT ISLAND. 663

gone as far as this before camping, I preferred to have
a clear stretch at first for onr next move, hoping to see
the land meanwhile, and perhaps change our course to
more favorable ice. Saw several murres, one loon, and
many gulls. Walrus meat again for supper, and then,
except his flippers, we have eaten all the choice parts.
Our dogs have literally gorged themselves on the re-
mainder, and some of them are too fat for comfort.

We are, thank heaven, rid of the wet, slushy travel
which tried us so long. So many holes have been made
through the ice, either old seal-holes or places where
mud has collected, that the surface snow in melting has
drained off, leaving good, fine, hard traveling. Our
only enemy now is an ice-opening, and unfortunately
this occurs frequently.

Piped down at nine A. M. ; called all hands at six p. m.
The sun shining brightly, though much fog around the
horizon prevented us from seeing the land. Under
way at 8.10 p. m., and made good time over the mile of
smooth ice which lay before us. At the end of this
mile we came to some trouble ; a mess of loose pack,
fifty feet in width, and some rough ice beyond, sepa-
rated us from hard ice one quarter of a mile distant.
However, we made a flying bridge, or ferry rather, and
by 12.10 A. m.,

July 23eZ, Saturday, had everything across in safety
on the hard ice, and halted for dinner. Turned to at
1.20 a. m. and went ahead. The fog seemed inclined
to lift, and we could see a point showing which, from
its bearing N. 40° W. (magnetic), I judged to be the
point which yesterday bore ,N. 56° W. (magnetic).
Shaped a course to carry us to the left of it. We came
to some good hard ice again after crossing one bad
mess, and I hurried along a good mile and a half to a

664 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

high ridge, to watch with Mr. Dunbar the reappear-
ance of the land. Upon the ridge we began to see a
headland working out from the fog, and bearing N.
84° W. (magnetic), and apparently good ice leading to
it. Almost calm at four. At 5.40 a. m. halted and
camped, having, I consider, made an advance of two
and a half miles west northwest since breaking camp
yesterday evening.

The fog now almost uncovered the island and en-
abled me to determine that the land wTas one island
and not two, as I for some time supposed. The bear-
ings of its extreme points were S. 82° W. and N. 27°
W., both magnetic. Other bearings will appear in the
sketch which I have directed Mr. Collins to make. I
do not think it is now five miles distant, and a long,
low point of land, sloping to the ice, I think some-
what nearer. Magnificent weather, calm and cloudless,
save for a few streaks of cirro-stratus clouds. Suffi-
cient mist and fog rest over the top of the land to hide
whatever is in the background ; but several have said
they saw high rolling land back from the cliffs, which
are shown in the sketch. Broiling hot sun, though the
thermometer reads 27°. Got a Sumner, and determined
our position to be in latitude N. 76° 40', longitude E.
151° 25', a change of position since the 16th of twenty-
eight and a half miles to S. 88° W. Soundings, twenty
and a half fathoms ; rapid drift to westward.

Piped down at nine A. m., but I remained up until
noon to get a meridian altitude ; latitude resulting 76°
39' 15". So my Sumner was very nearly exact. In
fact we are drawing in so rapidly upon the land all
the time that I dare say my Sumner is quite exact.
Called all hands at six p. m. ; under way at eight p. m.
Bright, nearly cloudless wTeather ; an appearance of
land to the southwest.

BENNETT ISLAND.

665

Before getting under way
got fresh bearings. The ex-
treme points were found to
bear as follows: S. 87° W. and
N. 18° W., both magnetic,
and the low point at which I
headed, west (magnetic).
Though the weather was
bright and pleasant, a fog-
bank was in the eastern hori-
zon and threatened to advance
upon us. In order to give
this new island a chance to see
the " Stars and Stripes " be-
fore the fog shut in, our colors
were displayed.

For one and three quarters
of a mile we advanced over a
good road, and then came to
an opening with large and
small blocks of ice, but yet
water enough to permit a fer-
ry. The ice was all in mo-
tion, and as everything might
change favorably before we
were ready to cross, no use-
less labor was indulged in by
getting ready bridges or fer-
rying pieces. At 11.50 p. m.
all our sleds and boats were
up. At ten the fog had cov-
ered us and shut in the land,
while an easterly breeze sprang
up that changed our sensations
from those of uncomfortable

N

666 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

heat to those of uncomfortable cold, though probably
the temperature remained unchanged.

July 24:th, Sunday. — At 12.20 a. m. we sat down to
dinner by the opened ice. Some little excitement was
created by the appearance of a seal, which Mr. Collins
killed ; but it sank before the dingy could reach it, and
thus our luxurious supper faded away. At 12.50 A. M.
turned to ; the ice had been alternately moving east
and west during dinner, but had now subsided, leaving
a lane fifty yards wide of clear water between us and a
neighboring hard floe. I at once decided this to be a
case for floating boats, and as soon as I had run a line
across in the dingy, and Mr. Dunbar had secured its
end, the boats were in turn drawn over. The first cut-
ter upon arrival was emptied, and used to ferry dogs,
dog sleds, and loose packages, and in one and a quarter
hours everything was across, then we proceeded for a
short distance three quarters of a mile, and were again
confronted by an ice freshet. Large blocks were be-
ing swirled around and carried first west and then east;
leads were opening and closing every moment ; water
lanes opened now, where a moment before a good road
appeared, and such a state of activity as we have not
before seen. Beyond this lay a stretch of good hard
ice, and better than that a lead of water on our course
west (magnetic), and fifty to one hundred feet wide,
while extending as far as the fog would permit us to
see, which, it is true, was not far. But the sliding,
shifting mess, before alluded to, bothered us exceed-
ingly ; though there were three dog-sled trips for each
sled, and four trips for the men, a new way had to be
found each time, going and returning, and it was not
until 6.40 A. M. we got all things over and camped.
Mr. Collins, however, at 6.30 shot a seal, and we know

BENNETT ISLAND. 667

that to-morrow we shall have a seal for supper. The
land showed just once, about 5 a. m., and we are seem-
ingly quite close to our point. It still bears west, but
hardly had we seen it than down shut the fog thicker
than ever.

Supper at 7.30. Divine service at 8.30. Piped
down at nine a. m. Immediately after a cry was raised
"a bear," and away rushed three or four in pursuit.
We soon heard two shots, but at 9.45 A. m. all returned
without any game. The natives fired at about one
thousand yards, but rather wildly, I imagine. Bruin is
described as not very large, (sour grapes?) and of a
dirty brown color.

As I was very tired upon turning in, I at first slept
very soundly ; but towards morning (i. e. evening) I
became wakeful. During one of these breaks, I heard
two shots fired at some distance. Supposing it to be
another wild goose chase, I paid no attention to it, and
resumed my sleep; but at six p. M., when Mr. Cole
called all hands, I learned that at four p. m. Gortz had
killed a bear. Bruin came within five hundred yards of
the camp, and Gortz crawled within one hundred yards
of him unnoticed, and planted his two bullets with good
results.

Fog still continues. Light airs from east. Tempera-
ture 28°. What lovely weather for the last week in
July ! Breakfast at seven p. m. Under way at eight
p. m. Start fleet where lead bent to west. Go clown it
in dingy. Lead closes. Much trouble. Strike hard ice
finally, but much difficulty in getting gear up to it-
Succeed by 12.45 a. m.

July 25th, Monday. — Sent Dunbar ahead, across an
ugly mess. He and doctor go together. Strike hard
ice, and at its edge they see low point, through fog,

668 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

one eighth mile distant, bearing west. Turn to at 1.45
A. m. Very ugly time crossing mess. Little or noth-
ing accomplished in distance by six A. m., our usual
supper time. Conclude to work all night. Land sud-
denly shows plainly, and we seem about one mile from
it. Moss plainly seen on the face of the cliffs. Go
ahead at eight A. M., and from that time to noon, fright-
ful work : ice opening, swirling, swinging us off from
land, separating our things in spite of us. Rain sets in
and continues in showers. Get our things together and
dine at 12.45 p. m. Getting our reckoning straight
at the expense of rest. Under canvas to avoid rain.
Apparently we are drawing into a bay making an in-
dentation on south side of island. Rain ceases. Turn
to at two p. m. ; go ahead. Simply fearful work which
I can never forget, and ending at six p. m. in a fog
which hid everything. Got on a piece of good ice and
pitched camp. Bear meat for supper. Twenty-four
hours since we commenced work. Wind S. E. Tem-
perature 30.5°. Tired, cold, wet, hungry, sleepy, dis-
appointed, and disgusted ; but ready to tackle it again
to-morrow. Piped down at nine p. m. This affords me
a chance to return to our natural way of living, work-
ing by day and sleeping at night.

July 2Qth, Tuesday. — During the night I was fre-
quently awake, and could hear the wind getting up,
and occasionally the rain pattered down. As I gave
everybody a good long rest, it was eight A. m. before
all hands Avere called. I then found a northeast gale
blowing, a thick fog, and only unsatisfactory glimpses of
the land now and then obtainable. The ice to the east-
ward of us was all in motion, and much water and drift-
ice pieces lay between us and the land. Several of the
watch declared that during the night, when they saw

BENNETT ISLAND.

669

the land, it was much nearer than when we camped ;
and Mr. Collins, who turned out during the night, said
we were in front of the valley, and he could see clear
water between us and an ice-foot, or strip of ice next
the land. The situation I think is as follows : —

A. Our position.

E. East end of south side island.

W. West end of south side island.

B. Ice rapidly drifting to S. W. before wind.

C. Water and drift pieces.

D. Ice-foot or strip of fast ice.

I think we are far enough under the lee of the point
east to escape drifting with the ice pressing down along
the island, and passing the point east, even if we are
not in an eddy so created, and thus pushed in closer to
the land. As nothing can be seen clearly, it would be
folly to move into a probably endless confusion, and I
shall therefore wait until some plan can be safely car-
ried out.

I do not think I shall ever forget yesterday. Such
a time of difficulty and vexation can be experienced
nowhere else. Such a shifting of ice and opening of
leads ! Hardly had we commenced to move our things
along what seemed a fair road, than the road broke up ;
ice broke under us, ice slid away from us, ice moved to
the right, when we wanted to go to the left, and vice
versa, and each installment of provisions got safely
across was considered by me as barely rescued from de-
struction. And all this time the land, not one half mile
off, was tempting us by its solidity, and appealing to
our desire for rest by its moss-covered hills and slopes.

670 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

At eight A. m. yesterday, when we concluded to go on,
and worked for twenty -four hours, so many good roads,
each leading seemingly directly on shore, presented
themselves, that I was embarrassed in a choice. In fif-
teen minutes they had fallen to pieces, and became puz-
zling masses of ice and water. There was no question
that when I gave it up at six p. m., everybody was used
up, and could not possibly have gone further. Every-
body was wet up to his knees, stiff legs and cramps an-
noyed us until we had been an hour or two in our bags,
and we were too tired, in fact, to get the rest we stood
so much in need of. However, we are all right again
this morning, and none the worse off, better off, in fact,
for if we had not put in the twenty-four hours in full,
we should have been out in the heavy drift ice, and
probably miles away from the land by the time this
gale is over.

At noon the fog broke away and showed the land for
a few moments. We were exactly as I had supposed
and indicated by the sketch on the preceding page.
The pressure of the ice in swinging off the east point
has backed us in toward the bay, and between our floe
and the land there is about two miles of water nearly
clear of ice. Jammed against our floe are a number of
large blocks and hummocks, offering serious difficulty to
any attempt to launch our boats. On the off side of
these hummocks the sea is breaking considerably. The
wind tears around us in fierce gusts. No. 6 tent has
been twice blown clown. We shall see what the state
of affairs is after dinner. Dined at 12.30 P. M. luxuri-
ously on bear stew.

By 1.30 the land was again in fog, and otherwise the
situation was as before. My desire was to go ahead,
but prudence told me to wait until the weather moder-

BENNETT ISLAND. 671

ated. The barometer is still falling, the rain beats
down from time to time, and nothing can be seen
through the fog. I decide to wait for an improve-
ment, and then I shall push on in the second cutter
and try to land some provisions.

Soundings in thirteen fathoms ; no drift indicated.
Our ice is evidently jammed tight. Probably at the
first chance the loose hummocks now pressing against
it will slack off and leave us place to launch our boats,
even if our floe piece does not go bodily in toward the
land.

During the afternoon the ice scene was constantly
changing. At one moment ice seemed to reach from
our floe to the land ; at another time lanes of water
were seen, and once our floe was left as an island, while
it would have been possible to launch a boat and reach
the shore. I confess I was tempted to try it, but I re-
alized that the whaleboat could carry nothing more
than her crew safely until her garboards were re-
paired, and that it would take six or seven trips of the
two other boats to carry our effects. The whaleboat
has leaked badly each time she has been floated, and
the weather to-day (the first chance for repairs) has
been such that Sweetman could not handle his tools.
Before I could have got one boat in the water ice shoved
in between us and the land, and we were once more
helpless. It seems as if Providence were directing our
movements, for the floe upon which we camped last
night is the only large piece of ice to be seen ; all
else is confusion and trouble. Had I gone farther, or
stopped short of this place, it is hard to say where we
should be now.

We are moving west slowly, about a mile or a mile
and a half from the land, and are now (seven p. m.)

672 THE VOYAGE OE THE JE ANNETTE.

abreast a large glacier, whose broken edge (it may be
twenty feet high) we can see with a glass. I have
watched carefully all day for a landing-place, but not
one has shown. The coast is either steep cliff or gla-
cier, and neither is a successful landing-place. The ba-
rometer is now at a stand, — I think 29.63 at 33°, —
and, though rain is occasionally falling, and the sky is
dark and threatening where the fog does not hide it
altogether, I am in hopes the weather will improve dur-
ing the night. Supper (bear stew) at six p. m. Piped
down at nine.

July 27th, Wednesday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. The wind has veered to E., and
is dying away. A thick fog continues, hiding every-
thing fifty yards distant. The barometer is rising, —
29.67 at 36°, the temperature is 28.5°, from which
two things I anticipate clearing weather. Meanwhile,
we remain where we are. " Hope deferred maketh the
heart sick." Patiently and hopefully have I waited
all the forenoon for a clearing, but still, at one P. m.,
does the fog hang about us impenetrably. The barom-
eter still goes up (29.72 at 38°), and the temperature
is 30°.

Soundings in sixteen fathoms water, and I am afraid
we have drifted down abreast the point west, and are
too far west to hope for any benefit from the bay in
which yesterday we shoaled our water to thirteen fath-
oms, in which case we are now beginning to open the
west face of the island. This will be the last forlorn
hope for open water in this neighborhood.

And yet there is much to be thankful for ; everybody
is in excellent health, in spite of our terribly hard work ;
the appetites are something wonderful to think of, and
our sleep is sound and unbroken. Forty-one days of

BENNETT ISLAND. 673

our march over the frozen sea have had no bad effect.
Our bear is so nearly consumed that for supper we have
only half our usual ration to serve out. (In five meals
we have eaten about 250 pounds bear meat. The gross
weight was probably 450 pounds.) The only trace our
marching shows on us is tender feet, and that probably
arises from their being so often wet. Wading through
pools would make wet feet if our foot gear was changed
every hour.

Chipp described to me the queer way in which the
man on watch " calls " his relief. Instead of calling
him, which would wake everybody else up, or of crawl-
ing over to him, which would also awaken everybody,
a boat-hook is employed. Chipp says, while awake the
other night he saw, to his amazement, a boat-hook
slowly coming through his tent door, and poising a mo-
ment over Sharvell, poke him vigorously in the back.
To show how soundly the man slept, it is worthy of
mention that he merely tried to brush it away, as a
troublesome fly. This ought to make a good Arctic
sketch.

At six p. m. had supper. At 6.45 the fog lifted a
little, and showed us the land, seemingly about half a
mile off. We have drifted along shore since last even-
ing, and have left on our right hand the glacier which
we were in front of last night ; but ahead of us, and
apparently extending in to the land, was a very heavy
floe of blue ice, separated from us by a few insignif-
icant openings. Such a chance was not to be lost.
All hands were at once turned to, and at 7.15 we went
ahead with all four sleds, officers dragging also, and
then bounced along the boats, and in one hour we had
everything on the heavy floe. This we now found to
be one and one half miles in width upon going over it,
43

674 THE VOYAGE OF TPIE JE ANNETTE.

and we were still separated from the land by a half mile
of broken ice, water lanes, etc. I at once made up my
mind that it could not be done to-night, and that I had
better devote a day to it.

The wind had veered to E. S. E., was blowing fresh,
and rain began to fall steadily, and when, at 10.45 P. m.,
just inside the blue floe edge, I gave the order to camp,
I think I did a very prudent and sensible thing.

July 2&th, Thursday. — Called all hands at seven.
Breakfasted at eight. Windy (E. S. E), foggy, and dis-
agreeable. Land in sight at times. We have gone a
short distance to westward. Temperature 29°. Under
way at 8.50 a. m. Sent Mr. Dunbar ahead, and after
a while we succeeded in crossing the broken ice which
had stopped us last night. Here we had a small floe,
across which we speeded. The fog now shut in impen-
etrably, and I feared we were in for a troublesome
time. Mr. Dunbar returned, however, and informed
me, that after crossing this floe we should find large
ice blocks, with only two-foot openings, and that these
extended to the ice-foot, or fast ice, and that, more-
over, he had climbed up on the ice-foot, and advanced
one hundred yards over it toward the land. This
was too good a chance to lose, and away we went.
But though we made all haste, and got over our last
ferry, and across the small floe in splendid time, when
we reached the further edge we found everything fallen
to pieces, and more water and rapidly moving ice than
we could undertake. Much of the moving ice looked
like small bergs broken off from a glacier foot, and
from the rounded lumps of ice on top, and their almost
straight edges, I am inclined to think they were ice-
bergs. By 12.30 p. m. we had everything up to the floe
edge, and halted for dinner.

BENNETT ISLAND. 675

The sun now tried to break through the fog, and I
hoped for a clearing; but at 1.30 p. m., when we turned
to, the fog was as thick as ever. The situation had im-
proved somewhat, for another floe piece had now come
along, and a few loose pieces offered a convenient
bridge. Away we went, but the floe piece was a small
one, and we soon reached its edge. Here was another
confusion, but we could make out a larger floe ahead.
Everything was embarked on an ice-cake for a ferry-
boat, and a hauling line run to the floe. By great ef-
fort we got our piece clear by four p. m. and commenced
to haul over. Suddenly everybody gave a shout,
" Look ! " Away up over our heads 2,500 (?) feet
towered the land, and we were sweeping past it like a
mill-stream. Hurriedly sounded in eighteen and one
half fathoms. Soon our floe was reached. Away we
jumped our sleds and boats, and, seeing two or three
large cakes nearly together, ran everything rapidly
over until we at last stood at the base of the ice-cap.
It was a narrow squeeze, for the men with the tents
and remaining loose provisions on their shoulders had
hard work to run fast enough to get on the last cake
before the other cakes were swept away. Now that
we were on the last cake our situation became critical.
We could not get up on the ice-foot, for ten feet of
water and small lumps intervened, and we were sweep-
ing along by it at the rate of three miles an hour. Our
cake was none of the strongest, and in the swirling and
running masses, and small bergs, I feared we should be
broken up and separated. It was an anxious moment.
The southwest cape of the island was not half a mile
away, and this was our last chance. Over two weeks
of dragging and working to reach this island seemed
about to be thrown away. I soon noticed our cake begin

676 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

to turn around, and saw that it might be whirled into a
kind of corner against the fast ice, where, if it remained
long enough, a landing might be effected. " Stand by,"
was the order now, and with sled ropes in hand we
waited the trying moment. Soon our cake caught and
held. " Now is the time, Chipp! " I shouted, and away
we went.

One sled got over on the rough ice-foot all right ; a
second nearly fell overboard ; the third did fall over-
board, dragging in Cole ; and a piece of ice had to be
dragged in by sheer force to bridge for the fourth.
When I started the St. Michael's sleds, they seemed to
stick somewhere. Watching our cake closely, I saw
signs of its giving way. " Away with the boats ! " — but
how ? Nindemann sang out, that he thought we could
float the boats below, and haul them over. No sooner
said than done, and down they went into the water.
The men were hurried from the sleds to the boats, and
I saw the first cutter just beginning to haul out, when
away swept our ice-cake, carrying Melville, Iversen,
Aneguin, and myself, with six dogs. Wilson had car-
ried one load of clogs over in the dingy, but he could
not get back for the remainder. Chipp was on the ice-
foot with the boats, and I knew he could look out for
them, and I felt pretty certain we had saved everything
For ourselves, on the drifting ice-cake, I had some lit-
tle anxiety, but one corner of our cake fortunately soon
after drifted near a fast berg, and by making a flying
leap through the air, we escaped in safety. At last !
But though standing still, we were not ashore. The
ice-foot extended out from the land, and was a con-
fused mass of piled up ice-blocks and ridges, — honey-
combed, cracked, and broken, — and presenting a
simply impassable road for travel with sleds. Glad

BENNETT ISLAND. 679

enough was I to get a solid foothold anywhere, and I
gave the order to camp at 6.30 p. m. (our first sled hav-
ing got on the ice-foot about five), everything being
hauled in as near to the land as possible, say fifty feet
from it. Rocks were occasionally slipping down and
falling into a little stream of water at the foot of the
cliff, the stream being where the thawing of surface
ice has left a channel about four feet deep.

The face of the cliff was literally alive with dove-
kies. Supper at 7.30 p. m. At 8.30 p. m. all hands
were called to muster and, led by me, everybody waded,
or jumped, or ferried over to the land, where we held
on as well as we could to the steep slopes of debris,
while our colors were displayed. When all had gath-
ered around me, I said, " I have to announce to you
that this island, towards which we have been struggling
for more than two weeks, is newly discovered land. I
therefore take possession of it in the name of the Pres-
ident of the United States, and name it Bennett Island.
I now call upon you to give three cheers." And never
were three more lusty cheers given. With great kind-
ness three were then given for me.

I now change the date to the correct one, and record
that at 8.30 p. m.,

July 29th, Friday, I added Bennett Island to Amer-
ican soil. Our landing cape I name Cape Emma.
Piped down at nine p. m.; fresh E. wind, thick fog;
ice off shore rapidly moving west. The birds kept up
a fearful chattering all night, but we slept well in spite
of it.

July 30th, Saturday (correct dates hereafter). —
Called all hands at seven. Breakfasted at eight, and
at nine A. m. turned to. Our plan of operations for our
stay was put into execution as follows : —

680 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Cbipp, Nindemann, Ericksen, Lee, Bartlett— Tidal
observers.

Collins — Sketches, and general collection of facts.
' Newcomb — Natural History, Flora and Fauna.

Dr. Ambler — Geological work, and collection of facts.

Dunbar — Looking for game, etc.

De Long — Astronomical observations, barometer,
compass variations.

Crew generally — Getting murres' eggs, drift-wood,
flowers, and other specimens.

Before noon I had received moss, scurvy grass, grass,
tufa, lava, cryolite (?), yellow flowers (curious differ-
ences in these flowers), amethysts ; and in the afternoon
I received from Mr. Dunbar two eggs of murres, large
as hens' eggs, and spotted. And at three P. M. Johnson
brought in a piece of reindeer horn with moss on it.
Dunbar made a small collection of drift-wood, but saw
no way of getting a lodgment on the island, and no
signs of game. Latitude at noon 76° 38' 17" N. Ba-
rometer 29.80. Temperature 31°.

During the forenoon the tide was ebbing, and though
the wind was W., the ice was driving along to the west-
ward at a great rate. Large floes brought up against
our ice-foot for a moment with a jar that caused it to
tremble, but it stood firm, and the floes split and broke
and swept along. The pressure was tremendous.

The collections are coming in so rapidly that I can
but just notice them by a word. Melville found a vein
of bituminous coal, and brought a large lump. Doctor
found down from some fox or rabbit, also rock tripe,
mosses, and more flowers ; nine dozen murres and
dovekies brought in up to four p. m. Drift-wood ac-
cumulating. One piece chipped with an axe at lower
end like a fence-post ; another burned on end. We

BENNETT ISLAND. 681

have already collected enough fire-wood for two meals,
and with a coal-mine " handy by," and birds in thou-
sands, we need never want for a warm meal.

The o-eolog-ical formation of Bennett Island is thus

o o

described by Dr. Ambler : " It is certainly of volcanic
origin. It is composed of trap-rock : a species of felds-
pathic rock, igneous rock with silica caught up in it in
masses ; trap-rock with globules of silica ; trap-rock
containing globules, which rock being broken shows the
globules of the darker color sticking in the matrix,
while the portion of the mass knocked off will show a
complete mould or bed. The globules are about the
size of a pea, receive a bright polish from the finger,
and are soft enough to be cut with a knife ; silica, very
light stone, tufa, I think, of a light brown color, spongy
in appearance, as if blown up by gases ; lava of dif-
ferent colors, varying from a yellowish brown to a dark
green ; clays almost the color of bricks ; debris from
the sides of the cliff being disintegrated portions of
this red seemingly baked clay.

" The face of the cliff (Cape Emma) is in six terraces
of igneous rock, separated by other strata imposed, of
the red clay stuff which contains most of the silica.
The amethyst was found in a matrix of quartz imbed-
ded in the trap-rock. The stalagmite and stalactite
were found upon breaking open a mass of trap-rock,
found lying on the beach, and could be easily removed
by the finger. The stratification is horizontal; fossils
seen. There is also a white stone with very much the
appearance of gypsum. There are two varieties, one
occurring in tabular masses, with glistening sides when
held in the light, and the other of a dull, opaque white,
and in rounded masses which show the action of water.
Both varieties can be cut with a knife, and form an

682 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

opaque white powder, which effervesces upon apply-
ing nitric and acetic acids."

The bituminous coal is abundant, and burns readily.
Melville thinks it has from fifty to sixty per cent, car-
bon, but to-morrow he will experiment further, and I
will note his remarks.

Unfortunately, the forenoon and afternoon were both
cloudy and foggy, and I could get neither time sight
nor azimuth. A landslide occurred at 6.30 p. m., large
masses of rock and red clay being hurled down from
the summit of Cape Emma.

From our observations of tides to-day, it would seem
that the flood comes from the westward. Birds for sup-
per at seven p. m.

Measured the water at various distances from the foot
of the cliff, — 50 feet, 7 feet deep; 100 feet, 12 feet
deep; 150 feet, 16 feet deep; 200 feet, 28 feet. Our
ice-foot is kept in by grounded floe pieces, or bergs
broken off from the foot of the glacier on the south
face. Wind very light ; northeast airs ; barometer at
nine p. m. 29.84 at 37° ; temperature 30°. The tide
measurements were made by a pike-end stick (a paddle
with a chisel end) stuck in the bottom ice, and held in
rigidly against the face of a rocky cliff (Rudder Point).
The graduations are to inches, — half inches, and quar-
ter inches, being estimated by the observers. The first
reading was taken at 10.26 a. m. by my watch, and sub-
sequent readings hourly.1

July Slst, Sunday. — Called all hands at seven.
Weather cold and foggy. Mr. Dunbar having ex-
pressed a wish to go along the south side of the island,
and it agreeing; with my desire to know more of that
section, I this morning gave him permission to take

1 For this and subsequent measurements see Appendix II.

BENNETT ISLAND. 683

Alexey, Aneguin, five dogs, and a dog sled, and remain
away forty-eight hours for that purpose. He will start
after dinner, carrying provisions, lime juice, sleeping-
bags, knapsacks, arms, and ammunition, and a compass,
glass, and measuring line. I have instructed him to
take all possible bearings and sketches, and if he is
able to get up a hill-side to look carefully southwest
for land. At two p. m. he started, to be back by or
before noon on Tuesday, August 2d.

The bird-hunters were out again this afternoon, but
with rather poor luck. They barely got enough for
supper. The birds are becoming shy, and at the first
rock hove clown from above fly out in clouds and keep
on the wing. Hundreds and perhaps thousands remain
in the niches and crevices, but they are out of reach
and out of sight. Melville experimented with the coal
to-day, using a stove built of stones. The fire burned
until choked with its own ashes. The result gave fifty
per cent, of combustible matter, though of course we
could make no quantitative analysis. The shale and
slate burned with it, giving forth a gas like coal gas, or
petroleum gas. No sulphur evident. The coal was
merely the out-croppings of a vein extending down the
mountain side abreast the camp, and picked oft* easily ;
and further back, or deeper, the coal was no doubt bet-
ter. Hematite, from which brown metallic paint is
made, was also found.

Dinner at one, supper at 7.30. All three meals to-
day have been of murres, old and young. Delicious
food ! For a change from stew, our ordinary way of
cooking, we in No. 1 had them fried for supper in bear's
fat, and a more luxurious meal I do not recollect having
had. I must here note that our water supply is ob-
tained from streams running down the mountain side,
sweet and fresh.

684 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

At 8.30 p. M. read divine service ; at nine piped
down.

August 1st, Monday. — Called all hands at six. Break-
fasted at seven. Wind W., light. Upon mature consid-
eration I have decided to send Chipp with the second
cutter and six men to have a look at the west side of
the island. Upon walking out to the Rookery yester-
day, I saw a more distant cape through the fog, and
bearing N. 31° E. (magnetic), Rudder Point bearing S.
10° W. (magnetic), and Ericksen and Kaack walked out
to it and said it was only three miles distant. The ice-
foot breaks off, however, just beyond Rudder Point, and
a stretch of water takes its place, making in to some
little amount of beach. Beyond the distant cape Erick-
sen said the land trended more to the eastward and was
lower, and I am of the opinion that if Chipp is success-
ful with bearings and soundings on his journey we can
make a very fair chart of the island. Mr. Collins ac-
companies Chipp to make sketches, etc.

At ten the party started, all hands dragging the sec-
ond cutter along beyond the Rookery ; but upon arri-
val near the edge of the fast ice, instead of the stretch
of water along shore, the broken pack was jammed in
close. Chipp here halted his party to wait for a change,
while the rest of us returned to camp. I sent Mr. New-
comb out this morning to see what effect ten shot car-
tridges would have on the birds. Before noon he had
got forty, but the birds were extremely shy, and he
could not command a choice of position from his perch
on the dizzy cliffs. He had a narrow escape after tiring
his last shot, — a large piece of cliff tumbled from the
place he had barely left. We dined at twelve on pem-
mican, reserving the birds for supper.

Except supper the night of our arrival, and breakfast

BENNETT ISLAND. 685

the following morning, all our meals have been cooked
with drift-wood. Chipp carries a gallon of alcohol with
him, but he will of course avail himself of any drift-
wood. Dunbar depends entirely on wood, because he
will not leave the land- ice.

Weather at noon still overcast and foggy, but I am
in hopes of a clearing. I must get a longitude before
leaving. Thursday, the 4th of August, is the day I ap-
point for our start toward the Siberian Islands. Calm.
Temperature 29°. Sent out a party after dinner to
bring in the fire-wood which Ericksen and Kaack piled
up yesterday. The men sent out to bring back the
wood report that Chipp had just started afloat with the
second cutter. Newcomb came back at eight p. m.
with quite a collection.

August 2d, Tuesday. — Called all hands at six ;
breakfasted at seven ; pemmican, etc. After breakfast
sent out some bird-catchers. At ten A. m. Mr. Dunbar
returned. From his report, verbally made, he has been
about fourteen miles along the south face. He brought
back some mosses, stones, and drift-wood, and an old
bone which may have been that of a musk ox (?) or of
a walrus. No game of any kind was seen, but traces
of bears, foxes, Arctic hares (?), and grouse (?) were
found ; bear-tracks and a bear's winter house, divided
into outer and inner apartments at right angles, Arctic
hare (?) wool, grouse droppings. The extinct volcano,
which we saw to our right before landing, and which
I supposed to be at the shore, was three quarters of a
mile back and about four and a half miles from our
encampment. He saw two glaciers, and thinks they
unite at the top. The further and larger was three
miles across its face, and its edge was from fifty to
sixty feet in height. This is the glacier abreast of

686 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

which we were on the 26th, and upon which it would
have been impossible to land. It certainly looked
tempting then.

Three hours after leaving camp he came to a valley
through which a stream of water flowed. It was here
that he found the musk ox(?) horn and a track of a
bear. Here the ice-foot ended, and he took to the
beach, but finding the shore becoming bold and steep,
also, he came back half a mile and camped. He en-
countered at 'this place a large amount of drift-wood, a
great mass of it sticking out of the earth like a dock
fallen to decay. A hundred feet above the sea-level,
and five hundred feet up the slope, was more of this
drift-wood, probably carried there in the course of
years by the gradual upheaval of the land. Next
morning, August 1st, he left the sled and gear, and
started with Aneguin and Alexey, and the dogs, to try
to cross the mountain. After ascending about one
thousand feet (at which point he picked up some mar-
ine shells) he was shut in by thick fog and soon after
returned. He next attempted to cross the foot of the
big glacier, but after going about three miles was
obliged to give it up. He found cracks in the glacier
one foot wide, but widening below, and he could hear
the roar of water several hundred feet beneath him.
Large patches of crimson snow were abundant on the
ice-foot.

A N. W. gale has sprung up during the forenoon,
and is blowing the ice off shore, where the land ice
ends beyond the Eookery. Much water is consequently
between us and the pack west and southwest, and
Nindemann reports that from the Rookery he could see
large lanes of water making to the southwest, and the
ice was constantly separating to form new ones. Chipp
ought to come back riving at this rate.

BENNETT ISLAND. 687

Weather cold and very disagreeable. It is impossible
to keep warm, and my feet have nearly frozen. Thick
clouds are flying rapidly over the sky, and those peo-
ple who have not seen nimbus clouds in the Arctic
ought to be here to see the rain clouds and the ragged
threatening edges they show. I would like very much
to get the height of this bluff in front of which we are
camped. But though it is variously estimated from
1,800 to 2,500 feet, my sextant measurements only
make it 300, and I shrewdly suspect that my sextant is
nearer right than wrong. It is so positively dangerous
to attempt to climb on account of the rottenness of the
cliff, that if a man slipped he would inevitably break
the barometer if not his neck. Aneguin had a narrow
escape yesterday with Mr. Dunbar ; climbing a cliff after
a bird, he slipped, and after sliding rapidly toward de-
struction, just barely caught with his nails and fingers
as he was about going over a precipice to the glacier
sixty feet below.

The bird-hunters were unable to get a single bird,
and in consequence we had our last birds for supper.
Drift-wood enough was brought in to cook to-morrow,
and enough remains behind to last one day more.
During the evening rain fell occasionally. The wind
still blew a gale, and though we were somewhat pro-
tected fierce gusts took us, threatening to blow our
tents away. The doctor is quite sick. The birds have
not agreed with him, and pains, etc., are the con-
sequence. Piped down at nine p. m. Though I
have marked the wind N. W. it is possible that sweep-
ing around these points may constantly change its
direction. The wind may be much different from
what I marked it, though judging by the clouds it is
N. W.

688 THE VOYAGE OE THE JEANNETTE.

August 3d, Wednesday. — Called all hands at six ;
breakfasted at seven. Strong wind yet from N. W..
with mist, fog, and occasional rain. Clear water for two
miles off shore southwest, ice beyond. Barometer,
29.73 at 36° ; temperature 28°. At 9.13 a. m., this
morning, high water. Bartlett noticed that the high-
est tide-mark on the rock was one foot higher than the
3' 1" on our gauge. Of course it must be remembered
that the zero of our scale is where it is stuck in the
bottom ice.

At 12.30 P. m. Chipp returned, having been some
seventeen miles along the coast. He brought back
many stones, mosses, and some eggs, and Mr. Collins
made some excellent sketches. But as Chipp kept a
good diary he can hereafter make me a detailed report
and I need not itemize here.

The weather during the day has been simply dis-
gusting. Fog, rain, or mist as wet as rain, snow-hail,
— cold and sharp gusts of wind. At six the wind
was W. ; barometer 29.68 at 36° ; temperature 28°.
Too foggy to see whether ice or water is next our ice-
foot.

August Ath, Thursday. — This is the day which I ap-
pointed for leaving, but it is ordered otherwise. Dur-
ing the night the wind increased to a gale again, and
upon calling all hands at six A. M. we found ourselves
shut in by fog, while a pitiless storm of rain, snow, and
hail beat down upon us. Seaward nothing can be seen,
but whatever there may be the weather is unfit to
expose a dog even ; the wind where we are is about
W. N. W.

Filled out one of our blank records to be left behind,
in the following words : —

BENNETT ISLAND. 689

Bennett Island, Cape Emma.
Lat. N. 76° 38', Long. E.

August 4, 1881.

This island was discovered on the 11th of Jnly and landed
upon, taken possession of and named on the 29th of July by
the officers and men of the U. S. Arctic Steamer Jeannette,
which vessel was sunk by the ice on the 13th of June, 1881,
in latitude N. 77° 15' and longitude E. 155° 0'.

It is my intention to proceed from here at the first oppor-
tunity toward the New Siberian Islands, and thence toward
the settlements on the Lena River. We have three boats,
thirty days' provisions, twenty-three dogs, and sufficient cloth-
ing, and are moreover in excellent health. We drifted in the
pack ice from the 5th September, 1879, to the date at which
our vessel was crushed and sunk by the ice, and during that
time discovered two islands, Jeannette Island and Henrietta
Island, upon the latter of which a party landed. Jeannette
Island, discovered May 21, 1881, is in latitude N. 76° 47',
longitude E. 158° 5Q', and Henrietta Island, discovered May
25, 1881, is in latitude N. 77° 8' and longitude E. 157° 45'.
Excepting these islands we saw no land since losing sight of
Herald Island in March, 1880. Having rested here a few
days, we are now detained by a westerly gale, fog, sleet, and
snow, and though at times we see much open water to the
southwest we cannot yet say whether or not we can take to
our boats to resume our journey, or shall be forced to resort
again to dragging everything over the ice. The ice travel has
been very hard, and two miles a day made good has been our
usual distance, though many trips back and forth have been
necessary on account of our weights. The ice in this sea is
similar to the ancient ice encountered by the British Ex-
pedition of 1875, north of Cape Joseph Henry. We have lost
none of our original number, eight officers and twenty-five
men, and have not had scurvy.

George W. De Long, Lieutenant U. S. N.

Commanding U. S. Arctic Expedition.

I do not remember ever to have passed a more dis-
44

600 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

agreeable and uncomfortable day. Outside the tents
the wind blew in such fierce gusts that it was hard to
keep one's footing on the small pieces of ice left to us,
while the driving snow and hail made it impossible to
remain exposed. Inside the tents was wet and cold and
dreary. Packed close as we were, all moving around
inside was out of the question, and our feet were seem-
ingly freezing all the time. Beating them on our ice-
floor only made them ache, and using sticks as a basti-
nado, though making our feet tingle, hardly added to
our comfort. We could do nothing but sit and take
it, brightening up a little when hot coffee at dinner
and hot tea at supper thawed us somewhat.

At seven p. m. the barometer had fallen to 29.55,
at 34°, and was apparently on the stand, so I hope we
may have a change by to-morrow morning. A pro-
longed delay here, unless followed by open water, would
be a serious thing for us. It would seem that I am not
to get a time sight while here, for not once have I had
an opportunity.

The gale has loosened much of the rotten rock on
the cliff abreast our camp, and during the day frequent
showers of dirt and stones have fallen. Last night a
terrific amount shot down and threatened to bury us.
No. 2 tent turned out to a man, but the rest of us took
it quietly. In fact, after our experiences, we are pre-
pared for everything and surprised at nothing.

August 5th, Friday. — Called all hands at six A. m.
Breakfasted at seven A. m. Wind moderating some-
what, apparently W. Barometer 29.57 at 34°. Tem-
perature 28°. The clouds seemed inclined to break
away, and the sun threatened to show through, but
though I watched carefully during the forenoon, there
was no chance to get a time sight, such a mist, or rain

BENNETT ISLAND. 691

or snow fell all the time, that my sextant and artificial
horizon were useless, from the streams of moisture on
their glasses. Sent Mr. Dunbar to deposit our record
in a cairn one mile east from Cape Emma.

I, this afternoon, was forced to have shot ten of our
poorest dogs, including Tom and Jim. We have now
twelve left : Prince, Smike, Snoozer, Armstrong. Dick,
Pilgarlic, Geyotack, Magalan, Kasmatka, etc. The
amount of food these ten dogs eat is not compensated
for by the work done, and I must think of human life
first. The dogs were all worn out or subject to fits.

The sun showed about 4.45, and I got fair sights,
giving longitude E. 148° 20', the best I can do under
the circumstances.

There is a berg outside of us aground in five fath-
oms, probably thirty feet out of water ; sixty feet would
be height of glacier foot. Barometer rising at eight
p. m. 29.63, at 34°. Temperature 28°. We start to-
morrow.

CHAPTER XV.

IN THE BOATS.

G— 30 August, 1881.

Leaving Bennett Island. — The Island Disappearing from Sight. —
Loading the Boats. — Orders to Mr. Melville. — Reduction of Lug-
gage. — Loss of Dogs. — Two only Remain. — Following Leads. —
Inventory of Provisions. — Snow-Storm. — Camping on the Ice. —
Appearance of Land. — Shut In. — The Last Ration of Bread. — A
Good Run. — Fog. — Preparations for Open Water. — Distribu-
tion of Effects. — Instructions to Mr. Chipp and Mr. Melville. —
Wearisome Waiting. — Dependence on Tobacco. — Between Two
Islands. — The Ice Breaking Up. — Shoal Water. — Land.

August 6th, Saturday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. A gale of wind from N. W.
Snow squalls. Bright sunshine in spots, and generally
a queer day. Barometer 29.70 at 32°. Temperature
27°. Mountain side covered with snow. Excellent
time azimuth obtained, to be worked out hereafter.
Turned to at eight, and immediately commenced prep-
arations for departure. At 9.30 I started with the first
cutter full of goods and chattels, and sailed across two
miles of water before reaching the hard ice on the
other side. Then sent the boat back under oars, and
in like manner the second cutter and whaleboat as
they arrived ; but each boat had to make two trips,
and it was not until 2.45 p. m. that the last boat towing
the dingy reached the ice, and Bennett Island was left
behind us for a full due. I had dinner all ready and

IN THE BOATS.

693

we Scat down. Turned to at 3.30, and immediately
commenced loading the sleds. When we started in the
first cutter the wind had already moderated to a fresh
breeze, and by the time I had landed on the ice it had
almost died away. Then succeeded the rarest of things
in the Arctic — a perfect day. Bright sunshine, almost

2ft. II

tfte

?fk9£

Tha Jeannette's Boats.
-A. First Cutter, Captain De Long. B. Second Cutter, Mr. Chipp. C. Whaleboat, Mr. Melville.

cloudless, and a burning heat, 27°. The island came
out of the fog in all its beauty, every line, every snow-
curve sharp against the sky. I immediately set Mr.
Collins to work making a sketch.

Upon landing on the ice I saw a water-lane making
around on each side, and upon investigation I found
we were on a large ice island, and that beyond we had
a large expanse of water ; accordingly I determined to
sail the boats around while Mr. Chipp dragged the sleds
across. This we did, carrying in each boat sleeping
and cooking gear, knapsacks, etc. The first cutter was
manned by the doctor, Mr. Collins, Lee, and myself;
the second cutter by Mr. Dunbar, Starr, and Kuehne,
and the whaleboat by Mr. Melville and Mr. Newcomb,

694

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Mr. Danenhower going as a passenger. We were suc-
cessful in getting the boats around before six p. m.,
while the four sleds and clingy did not get across until
7.35 P. M. Camped and got supper ready. Light N.
W. airs. Barometer 29.83, at 37°. Temperature 27
in the sun, 2-5° in the shade. Piped down at ten p. h.
Cape Emma was certainly five miles oft", — a good
day's work.

August 7th, Sunday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. Wind W. Barometer 29.80, at
38°. Temperature 24°. Our usual fog seemed creep-
ing up from the southwest. The top of the island was
already swimming in the clouds. As a result of the
low temperature of last night, much young ice formed ;
close to the floes it was one eighth of an inch thick.

A careful look to the S. S. W. showed that with some
care we could probably make a mile or two with the
boats, but with sleds we could not make a mile in a
month. Numerous leads and much broken ice pre-
sented insuperable difficulties. Accordingly I deter-
mined to make the attempt, and the three boats were
loaded to their utmost capacity.

FIRST CUTTER.

SECOND CUTTER.

WHALEBOAT.

De Long,

Chipp,

Melville,

Ambler,

Dunbar,

Danenhower.

Collins,

Sweetman,

Newcomb,

Nindemann,

Sliarvell,

Cole,

Ericksen,

Kuehne,

Bartlett,

Kaack,

Starr,

Aneguin,

Boyd,

Manson,

Wilson,

Alexey,

Warren,

Lauterbach,

Lee,

Johnson,

Tong Sing,

Noros,

Ah Sam.

Leach.

Dressier,

Gortz,

Ivei'sen.

IN THE BOATS.

69

FIRST CUTTER.

1 dog.

10 sleeping bags.

765 lbs. pemmican.

Bread.

Second cutter sled.

35 gals, alcohol.

Sugar.

10 gals, lime juice.

Liebig.

Tea.

WHA.LEBOAT.

Boat box.

Coffee.

Pemmican.

4 tin cases.

2 tents.

Alcohol.

1 chart case.

2 stoves.

Liebig.

1 calculation box.

SECOND CUTTER.

Boat box.

3 boxes specimens.

540 lbs. pemmican.

2 guns.

5 guns.

8 gals, alcohol.

10 knapsacks.

13 knapsacks.

6 lbs. Liebig.

10 sleeping-bags.

Sleeping bags.

1 boat box.

Whaleboat sled.

1 cutter sled.

4 guns.

4 dogs.

No. 1 sled.

10 knapsacks.

At nine a. m., all being ready, we got under way.
The dingy was taken in tow with Ericksen in charge of
.seven dogs. But four jumped from the boat afterwards
and did not rejoin us, so that at noon we had only eight
dogs remaining of our twelve.

Proceeded under oars, pulling four at a time in the
first cutter. This gave us two watches of pullers, for
Lee was sent to the dingy afterward as a steady hand,
and after breaking through the new ice got into water,
and by 12.30 p.m. had certainly made three miles good
on a S. S. W. course. The fog now surrounded us, and
we had come to a floe island, the water around which
was choked at each side. There seemed nothing left
but dragging sleds and boats over, and I meanwhile
called a halt for dinner

We had left behind us two St. Michael's sleds and
four McClintock sleds, — no longer of use to us except
as firewood, and the dingy had two days' allowance of
that, counting her as fuel likewise. These sleds had
done good work, but our traveling now was beyond
even their capacity.

696 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Turned to at 1.30 p. m.. and I saw a chance to g-et
around to the left of the floe island. Started ahead,
but just as I got the first cutter to a narrow opening in
the before closed ice neck, the ice came together with
a snap and stopped me. Turned back to our dinner
place and discharged the boats, and loaded the provi-
sions on the four sleds. Then we all (except Danen-
hower) took hold at three p. m., and in one fleet dragged
the sleds across the floe island. By this time the ice
neck to the right had opened, and I was able to pull
the boats around to where the sleds were, and again
loaded up. Proceeded again on a general S. S. W.
course, and, upon coming to a closed place, unloaded,
carried things along on our shoulders, dragged boats
over, reloaded and resumed our journey, — making by
5.30 p. m., when I camped, a distance of two miles
more, or five miles for a clay's work.

Wind S. S. W. Temperature 28°. Hard floe for
camp. No further progress possible to-night, but a
promise for to-morrow.

COPY OF ORDER TO MELVILLE.

U. S. Arctic Expedition.

Cape Emma, Bennett Island,

Lat. 76° 38' N., Long. 148° 20', E.

August 5th, 1881.

P. A. Engineer -Geo. W. Melville, U. S. Navy :

Sir, — We shall leave this island to-morrow, steering a
course (over ice or through water, as the case may be) south
magnetic. In the event of our embarking in our boats at any
time after the start, you are hereby ordered to take command
of the whaleboat until such time as I relieve you from that
duty, or assign you to some other.

Every person under my command at this time, who may be
embarked in that boat at any time, is under your charge, and
subject to your orders, — and you are to exercise all care and

IN THE BOATS. 697

diligence for their preservation and the safety of the boat.
You will, under all circumstances, keep close to the boat in
which I shall embark, but if, unfortunately, we become sep-
arated, you will make the best of your way south until you
make the coast of Siberia, and follow it along to the westward
as far as the Lena River. This river is the destination of our
party, and without delay you will, in case of separation, ascend
the Lena to a Russian settlement from which you can commu-
nicate, or be forwarded with your party to some place of
security and easy access. If the boat in which I am embarked
is separated from the two other boats, you will at once place
yourself under the orders of Lieut. C. W. Chipp, and, so long
as you remain in company, obey such orders as he may give
you. Respectfully,

George W. De Long,
Commanding U. S. Arctic Expedition.

At 8.30 called all hands to muster. Read Articles of
War, and then performed divine service. Piped down
at nine. Soundings in twenty fathoms.

August 8th, Monday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. Wind S. jS. W. Temperature
28°. Turned to at eight and commenced to drag the
sleds and boats across the floe to a lead on the south
side.

I then went ahead, and by 11.50 had, perhaps, made
one half mile. Stopped for dinner. Most of our work
was dragging, though we had a little boating. At 1.10
turned to and went down a lead one mile, and then
were stopped. Cape Emma in sight, bearing N. N. W.
Distance ten miles. At three halted. After hauling
our boats out and having an impassable dragging road
ahead of us, waited for a probable opening. Disap-
pointed, and dragged along everything a little further
to some hard ice, when at five we halted to get supper.
Mr. Collins got a seal, and Dunbar shot three murres.

698 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

Cut up the McClintock dingy for fire - wood. After
supper I could find no chance to go ahead, and I there-
fore determined to pipe down and make an early start
in the morning. We had broiled seal and a taste of
murre apiece for supper. We then set to work reduc-
ing our luggage to a small compass. Got rid of our
knapsacks, and put all our clothing together in bags.
This reduces the number of packages, and materially
assists us in stowing the first cutter. Supper at six-
Turn to at 7.30. Shoot Prince and Pilgarlic. Lose
Smike, Armstrong, Wolf, Dick. Two miles by 9.30.
Halt and camp. Coffee giving out. Tea for dinner in-
stead.

August 9th, Tuesday. — Called all hands at five a. m.
Breakfasted at six A. m. Turned to at seven. Tem-
perature 26°. Loaded up sleds, and dragged them and
the boats about one quarter of a mile over the ice, and
then were able to float the boats. Nearly caught the
first cutter between two closing pieces of ice. Short
fleet, then drag again, and at 11.30 had made good
south about two miles. Halted for dinner. Twenty
fathoms. Turned to at 12.30 p. m., floated boats, and
then, by a miraculous piece of good fortune, were able
with one hitch to make a good five-mile stretch afloat.
The hitch occurred by the closing in of a narrow open-
ing through which I was desirous of pushing the boats.
Five minutes earlier and the opening would have served
us, but just as we got up the chance was gone. The
ice seemed about to close also astern of us, and we had
to make a very lively scramble up the side of a big floe,
and throw our provisions out with all speed. Then the
whaleboat's people had to lend us a hand to drag our
boat up this steep incline, which was a hard job. How-
ever, it was done, and we proceeded, and when the

IN THE BOATS. 699

time for supper came, 6 p. m., I considered we had
made good seven miles to the southward. This is too
immense not to glory in, when I remember the hard
days of dragging which only gave one and a half or
two miles.

Sat down to supper at six p. m. on a hard ice floe,
letting our loaded boats ride alongside. It was my de-
sire to keep the twelve dogs we had on leaving Ben-
nett Island, and if we could possibly carry them to
bring them with us to the end. But on Sunday, when
we were starting, four of them jumped from the boats,
and time was too precious to stop and run after them.
To-day four more, Smike, J. Armstrong, Wolf, and
Dick, did the same thing, and though their doleful
howling could be heard long after we had stopped for
dinner, I could not spare the time to chase them even
if the crowded condition of our boats would have per-
mitted their being carried. But as our boats are so
heavily loaded that the slightest motion causes the
water to wash in through the rowlocks, carrying dogs
becomes a risk. Perhaps the most sensible thing would
have been to shoot them all, but, with the island so
near, I thought if they escaped from us they might get
back and perchance live. So that chance for life was
given them.

To-night, however, after canning four dogs in the
first cutter, I came to the conclusion that I was wrong-
so to lumber up the boat, and much to my regret (and
to Ericksen's grief) Prince was one of the two victims
led off to execution, Pilgarlic was the other. We now
have two of our original forty, — Snoozer and Kas-
matka, — and these two I shall keep until it becomes
perilous to do so.

Got under way again at 7.30, and by 9.30 p. m. had

700 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

made two miles more, when I came alongside a hard
lloe. Unloaded and hauled up boats and camped.
Coffee is getting so low that I shall be compelled
after to-morrow's dinner to use tea at that meal and
supper both. Nine miles to-day.

August li)th, Wednesday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. Calm. At eight turned to, loaded
boats, and at 8.30 got under way. Worked along to
the southward under oars, and a light N. E. breeze
springing up made sail. At ten brought up by a large
amount of ice blocking up a lead, and had to land
on the hard lloe, discharge and haul up boats, and
drag everything one half of a mile " overland " to get
afloat again. At 11.30 came to alongside hard ice and
got dinner. Three miles made good for forenoon's
work. At 12.45 P. m. got under way again, but lost
half an hour by getting in and then getting out of a
choked lead. N. E. wind increasing. Snow falling
steadily. At 3.30 apparently came to the end of the
large lead, and ran alongside of hard ice to reconnoitre,
and let people run around to get their feet warm.
Found that by going northwest a bit I could keep away
again. Got under way at 3.45, and had such a glorious
run by 5.30 that I seized upon the first large ice-island
I met to come to for supper.

Nine miles this afternoon, or twelve miles good be-
tween breakfast and supper. Foggy, and steady snow.
Bennett Island not seen to - day. Pitched tents for
shelter during supper. Much open water. Large leads.
Ice broken up into islands.

Turned to at se/en and got under way, and thanks to
a freshening N. E. breeze had made five miles more by
nine p. m., at which time we were stopped by a choked
lead separating us from a large water space, and being

IN THE BOATS. 701

well enough satisfied with seventeen miles for a day's
work, unloaded and camped.

August 11th, Thursday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. Wind E. N. E. Barometer
30.08 at 32°. Temperature 26°. Turned to at eight.
The lead still remaining choked we were forced to carry
all our traps about three hundred yards along the ice,
and we then floated and loaded our boats. Under way
at 8.40, and proceeded until 11.45, by which time with
oars and sail wre had made seven miles. Came to
alongside a floe for dinner. Much thin young ice close
in to the heavy floes, the growth of the night. Saw an
oogook. Dunbar fired at him but missed.

Turned to at one p. m. and proceeded. Sun occa-
sionally showing through clouds and fog, but I gener-
ally steered by the wind, keeping it on our port beam,
or a little abaft it. Consequently we made a course
generally between south southeast and south southwest.

To save all time and distance, I cut off all the corners
I could in steering through the ice, and occasionally
crowded through some very narrow places, using pick-
axe, and jumping out to lighten boat when she grounded
on projecting tongues. Once this afternoon wras obliged
to turn back and " go west " for a time. In conse-
quence I think we did not make more than nine miles
by 5.45, when I ran alongside a drifting floeberg for
supper. Mr. Collins here shot a seal, which we shall
have for breakfast. Turned to at seven and proceed ed.
but after going beautifully south for one and a half
hours, were caught in a trap and obliged to go north-
west for one half hour before keeping away. Snow
now began to fall, and at 9.30 P. M. ran alongside a floe
piece, unloaded and hauled up boats, and camped. Ran
since supper four miles on our course, —

702 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Breakfast to dinner .... 7 miles.
Dinner to supper .... 9 miles.

Supper to camp 4 miles.

Total, 20 miles.

Wind E. Temperature 26°.

August 12th, Friday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven (seal). Turned to at eight and
launched and loaded the boats. At 8.20 started ahead
and was forced to steer to the westward, and making
for two and a half hours about west southwest, then I
was able to haul up more to the southward, and made
about a south southwest course until twelve, when I
ran alongside a floe for dinner. Here we were seem-
ingly brought up by a closed lead, and I did not think
we had made more than four miles altogether. Ben-
nett Island showed plainly, its ice-cap towering up like
a dome, bearing north northeast, distance forty (?)
miles. Until I get sights again I cannot tell how far it
may be off. From our experience in underestimating
distances when going toward Bennett Island, we may
now have fallen into the habit of overestimating:.
Turned to at 1.15, and after breaking through a kind
of Suez Canal, got into a large opening which unfor-
tunately soon terminated, bringing us up against a solid
floe. I walked ahead while the sleds were being loaded
and the boats hauled up, and seeing a possible chance
of resuming our journey afloat, if only a little ice would
slack off, I kept everything fast from 2.20 to three,
when, seeing nothing gained, we went to work dragging
our sleds and boats a half mile " overland," reaching a
narrow lane of water at that point. We went south
about two miles, when we were stopped by jammed up
blocks of ice. It was no use to attempt such work, and
at six went alongside a hard floe, unloaded and hauled

IN THE BOATS. 703

up boats, and had supper. At 7.30. the situation re-
maining unchanged, went into camp.

August loth, Saturday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six o'clock. Calm. Crooked lead opened
somewhat during the night. Bennett Island, Cape
Emma bearing N. 12° E. (magnetic.) Turned to at
seven. Under way at 7.15, and by poling, hauling, and
dragging got boats along five miles southwest, and then
by 11.20 A. M. was forced to come to alongside a small
floe piece, unload, and haul out. We were effectually
stopped. The continuance of calm prevents any move-
ment of ice, and all around us it lies in closely massed
blocks over which there is no sledding, and among
which there is no boating. Not a lane can be seen,
and not a single large floe, and until a breeze springs
up and opens the ice we must wait. Dinner at twelve.
Strong appearance of land to south and southwest, and
cumulus clouds indicating water.

During the afternoon the sun came out brightly, and
gave us a long-wished for chance to get our wet cloth-
ing and sleeping-bags dry. Light south air came along
occasionally, but the ice remained closed. Toward five
p. m. I thought there might be a change, and I ordered
supper to be got ready. At 6.30 packed up ready for
a start, Temperature 24°, though it has got as high as
32° in the sun at three P. M. At 7.10 got under way,
and proceeded about a mile southwest, but was then
brought up. Having a hard floe at hand, ran alongside
it, unloaded and hauled up boats. Fog setting in with
light southeast breeze.

PROVISIONS ON HAND.

65^ lbs. bread (4 days). 46 lbs. sugar (11 days).

43^ lbs. ham. 18£ lbs. coffee (9 days).

74.^ lbs. tea (36 days). 20 lbs. beef tongue.

704 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

14i lbs. pigs' feet. 1,600 lbs. pemmican (38 days).

24 lbs. beef extract (23 53 gals, alcohol (26 days),
days). 5 gals, lime juice (20 days).

August 14:th, Sunday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Wind S. E. Temperature 27°.
Turned to at 6.50, and launched and loaded the boats.
Started ahead at 7.10 and proceeded, making about a
west southwest course. We were terribly bothered
with young ice, which was found to the thickness of
one fourth inch, and had to be beaten down with boat-
hooks and oars before we could force the boats through.
Then all the twists and turns we had to make consumed
time, and though we sailed, pulled, and tracked our
boats until eleven a. m., I do not think we made more
than two miles. At eleven we could advance no further,
and I ran the boats into a sunken dock and got dinner
ready.

During dinner the wind backed to N. E. and fresh-
ened, and the ice seemed inclined to open. Pushed
ahead at 12.40, and by 2.40 had made about one mile
southwest when we were again brought up standing.
I now hauled up the boats and pitched the tents. The
snow was falling so thickly, and the wind blowing so
freshly, that remaining exposed to it was imprudent.
I could see no chance to go ahead. Sent Mr. Dunbar
across our floe to the south, and he came back at four,
saying three quarters of a mile south he saw a lead
making south, and one quarter of a mile wide.

The storm increased, and I concluded to defer mov-
ing until morning. Supper at six; divine service at
seven ; piped down at eight.

August 16th, Monday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Wind N. E. ; temperature 26.5°.
The wind had moderated considerably, but snow was

IN THE BOATS. 705

falling in thick flakes. Some sign of a good lead
showing to the westward, I sent Mr. Dnnbar out to
look at it, and upon his return he reported that it
trended to the northward. Nothing remained there-
fore but to drag everything across the floe to where
the lead was seen yesterday p. m. At 7.15 we com-
menced, and it was a fearful job. The ice was very
much wasted, and had numerous holes extending
through to the sea. So much snow had fallen during;
the night that these holes were covered by it, and the
first warning any one had was his going in up to the
waist. However we got across by going a crooked,
roundabout track, but it was 10.15 before we got our
boats floated, loaded, and ready to start. Then we
were much bothered with new ice and the thick sludge
which the snow had made, and at one time I had to
resort to hard tracking. But at twelve, when I came
to for dinner, I considered we were two miles south of
where we started after breakfast. While waiting for
dinner Mr. Dunbar shot a seal, which not only gives us
a good supper but also provides the two dogs with a
meal. At 1.15 went ahead again. During the fore-
noon I had been much bothered by the sun not showr-
ing, and the wind suddenly shifting from N. E. to S. E.
But during the afternoon the sun showed occasionally,
and I was able to keep a knowledge of our course.

There wras very little water indeed, so little in fact,
and so much young ice, as to make me more anxious
than I care to show or to record. With our provisions
running low, and no islands or open sea in sight, each
day finds me more and more anxious. Over two
months of this care and anxiety is very wearing.

By six p. M., when wre stopped for supper, I think
we had added three miles south to our day's work.

706 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Cooking seal meat with blubber consumed much time,
and it was not until eight p. M. that we were under
way again. The wind had now got to east, and the ice
commenced to open quite rapidly, sometimes to south,
sometimes to west. By ten P. M. we had advanced
south two miles, and as the fog prevented me from
seeing anything I hauled alongside a large floe and
unloaded and camped. Temperature 26°.

August IQth, Tuesday. — Called all hands at six.
Breakfasted at seven. Wind N. E. ; temperature 25.5°.
Loaded the boats and got under way at 8.15, but had
hard luck. First, I was compelled to go to the north-
ward to get in a lead running to the southwest, and
then with all our crooks and turns I do not think we
had made two miles southwest by eleven a. m., when
we were brought to a stand. From the highest hum-
mock we could command, but few patches of water
could be seen, and no lanes at all. The ice seemed all
ready to fall in pieces, but N. E. winds held it jammed
closely. I got the latitude at noon, 76° 2', and we were
not so far south as I had hoped. Bennett Island,
Cape Emma, being in 76° 38', we are only 36' south of
it, and as for longitude I can only say it bore N. 12° E.
on the 13th, when we saw it last. We are probably
not much over forty miles away from it. At one p. m.
made another start, and struggled along southwest for
perhaps a mile, when at four p. m. we were again
stopped. Hoping for a change of wind to the N. W.
I have done what I- considered a proper thing, that is,
waited. If I attempt sledding I shall probably lose
some of our provisions by sleds getting overboard in
this skeleton pack. Before supper I hoped for a change
after supper, but after supper no change for the better
had occurred. The wind had backed to N. and snow

IN THE BOATS. 707

was falling thick ; no water which we could use was in
sight, and I therefore ordered the boats unloaded and
hauled out. We prepared for another night in our
wet bags, and hoped for a change on the morrow.
Day's work: three miles southwest (?) ; sounding, nine-
teen and a half fathoms.

August 11th, Wednesday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six; calm and light west air. Underway
at 7.15, and by 11.30 had made about six miles good,
on a southwest course, out of eight miles sailed. Here
we encountered a large Hoe, and hoping a narrow vein
of water running around it would widen, we got dinner.
By 12.45 p. m. it had widened, and we proceeded at
such a good rate that by 5.30 p. M. I think wre had
made six miles more good (southwest). Instead of the
closely packed ice of yesterday, everything seemed to
have fallen apart by magic, and a light S. W. wind was
rapidly opening things before us. Saw an oogook on
the ice. Mr. Collins fired twice but missed him. Seals
plentiful in the neighborhood of our supper place.
Shots frequent, but no results. To the south, appear-
ance of land and fog and open water ; soundings in
sixteen fathoms. Under way again at 7.15, and till
9.30 made three miles good southwest. Total made
good for day fifteen miles (southwest). Camped.

August 18th, Thursday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Calm ; temperature 25°. Before
starting out a seal was shot and secured. Under way
at 7.10, but had such hard luck that by 9.30 we had
made only one mile west. Young ice bothered us very
much, and though we broke it through with poles our
progress was necessarily slow. I tried tracking the
boats, but that was no better. One man fell in the
water through the treacherous snow-crust and got wet

45

708 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

up to his shoulders. Two openings that I tried to get
through closed just as I got my bow entered, and I had
to back out hurriedly. The ice was moving to and
fro in no definite direction, and seemingly under great
pressure. At 9.30 I was regularly brought to a stand,
and at ten we commenced to get our seal dinner ready.
At 11.30 dined. The clouds broke away a little, and a
light N. W. breeze sprang up. At 12.30 p. m. made a
fresh start, the ice opening up rapidly before increas-
ing wind ; strange to say the openings were west south-
west and southeast. I took the first named.

To my surprise, the openings were closing rapidly,
and the ice was in violent motion. Twice I narrowly
escaped leading everybody into a trap. When we could
finally keep away to southwest, it was only for a short
time ; and, though we ran along merrily before the
strong breeze, we had made only six miles southwest
by five p. m., when the water came to an end and I had
to come to. The wind now freshened to a gale, thick
snow fell, the barometer was at 29.52 at 31°, and the
temperature 25°, and, wisely or not as the future
will show, I decided to remain where we were for the
night. No water which we could use was in sight,
and sledding is yet out of the question ; and, though
God knows I am anxious to proceed, I do not see how
I can.

Our last ration of bread was served out to-night.
Since two days ago our ration of Liebig has been re-
duced to half an ounce per diem. Since Friday we
have coffee at breakfast only, and tea the other meals.
Dismounted No. 1 sled to carry inside.

August 19th, Friday. — The wind howled and tore
around us until Ions; after midnight. The ice was mov-
ing rapidly by our floe, and the second cutter's and

IN THE BOATS. 709

whaleboat's men had to turn out and shift their tents far-
ther back. Called all hands at five. Breakfasted at six.
Light N. W. breeze. Temperature 27°. Under way at
7.10, and by twelve had made ten miles on a south course
good. At 9.20 we had come to so much open water that
I believed the sea was close at hand. With a view of
keeping under way all day, and perhaps all night, I ran
the three boats alongside a floe to lay in a supply of snow
for cooking. This took twenty minutes or so, but we
soon made it up in pulling and sailing. The wind was
freshening a little, and we were going at about two and
a half miles an hour. One of our sleds (No. 1) was dis-
mounted and carried inside the boat, and the other was
carried in the bows ; so we had none of the wearisome
towing and impossible steering of yesterday. Chipp's
sled was dismounted and laid across the stern of the
second cutter, Melville's being across the bow of the
whaleboat. I instructed the boats to keep close to me,
and away we went. Commenced getting dinner in our
boats, going under sail alone while so doing, and at
twelve, just as we were sitting down to dinner, I saw
the second cutter lower her sail and the crew hurriedly
unload the boat. We had just come through a some-
what narrow7 passage between small floes, and I supposed
it had narrowed too much to let the boat through. I
rounded to, and directed the whaleboat to do the same,
and we secured to a floe and finished dinner. The wind
had now veered to N. E., and ice seemed to come
down upon us on all sides. I could not get back to
Chipp to help him without being caught, and he could
not get to me. From noon to three p. M. he seemed
to be continually loading, unloading, dragging over ice,
tracking, and poling, so it was only upon his joining
me at 3.30 that I learned the trouble.

710 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

The ice had closed on him, and, seriously enough,
had stove a hole in the cutter's port bow. He at once
dragged the boat out and repaired her with a piece of
Liebig box. When we stopped for snow I had a sound-
ing taken, and we got nine fathoms water. I naturally
supposed we were near the land, and that the everlast-
ing fog alone prevented us from seeing it. At noon I
got the lead down again and found fifteen fathoms, so I
must choose between a wrong sounding (touching an
ice-tongue) or the discovery of a shoal.

I before remarked that the ice seemed to come
around us like magic, and that it was moving and swirl-
ing about as if in a tideway. As we proceeded, the
wind veered to the east, and we found ourselves work-
ing among loose streams of drift ice, through which at
times we could see the open ocean beyond.

The streams obliged us to make a course about south
southeast, and to south and southwest pack edge could
be made out, the ice behind it being closely packed to-
gether. By 7.30 we had made about six miles good,
our boats making so much leeway as to force us to steer
much higher than I wanted to go. At that time I
could see no land, though our view was exceedingly
limited. But the sky looked very ugly, and our fur-
ther progress might, in our loaded condition, be exceed-
ingly risky.

The second cutter had taken in a large quantity of
water and needed emptying, and if wre were at the open
sea, as I believed, material changes and reductions ought
to be made in the stowage of all the boats. Accord-
ingly I ran alongside the pack, unloaded, hauled out,
and camped. Hardly had I done so than an east gale
broke upon us, and it raged all the evening. Tem-
perature 26°. Soundings in fourteen and a half fath-
oms (sandy bottom).

IN THE BOATS.

711

August 20th, Saturday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Turned to at seven. Wind fresh.

gale from east. Temperature

27°

Immediately upon

turning to. commenced making our preparations for
sea. This involved overhauling the boats, cutting up
sleds, melting snow for water, distributing provisions,
and making lists.

The things carried in each boat appear below.

1 mast and sail.

1 painter.

15 fathoms small line.
3 lbs. spun yarn.
5 oars.

2 balers.

2 paddles.
l pike.

14 spoons.

3 forks.

1 dipper.
1 tin dish.
1 glass bottle.
7 sleeping-bags.
5 knapsacks.

I bag moccasins.
3 hanks twine.

II bbls. cotton twine.
1 piece wax.

1 roping needle.

1 roping palm.

1 pap. harness needles.

1 find, box, flints, steel.

2 doz. wind matches.
1 boat-hook.

1 boat cover.

2 saws.

1 broadaxe.

2 hatchets.
1 rudder.

1 yoke.
1 tiller.

SECOND CUTTER.

8 sq. ft. cedar board.
1 day's wood, fuel.
1 cooking stove.
1 doz. tin pots.

1 doz. tin pans.

2 brad awls.

2 large files.

3 saw files.
2 gimlets.
2 nail sets.
1 punch.

1 cold chisel.
1 pincers.
1 plane.
1 Bowditch.

1 compass, out of ord.

2 tents.

8 poles.

2 rubber sheets.

3 Remington rifles.
255 cartridges.

Boat box, viz.
1 sq. ft. lead.
1 sq. ft. tin.
1 snow knife.
U lbs. salt.
1 lb. tallow.

1 doz. fish-hooks.

2 fishing lines.

2 spools of thread.
2 screw-drivers.

9 sals, water.

1\ gals, alcohol,
1 qt. whiskey.

1 qt. brandy.

1^ bottles lime juice.

7 cans (315 lbs.) pern.
171 Ibs. ham.

8 beef tongues.
4| lbs. pigs' feet.
1\ lbs. coffee.

2 pkgs. matches.

3 candles.

1 can-opener.

2 oz. tacks.

1 piece putty.

1 lb. iron nails.

2 oz. copper nails.
\ lb. raw cotton.

1 brace and bitts.
1 small hammer.
1 hand hammer.
1 cutting nippers.
1 spoke shave.

3 chisels.
88 lbs. sugar.
15i| tea.

A.\ Liebig ext.

1 pocket chronometer.

1 pocket compass.

1 binocular.

1 drawing knife.

1 whetstone.

712

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

4 oars.

1 mast and sail.

1 boat-hook.

2 tents.

8 tent poles.

1 clay's fuel, wood.

8 sleeping-bags.
1 boat cover.

1 bag foot gear.
1 bag clothing.

3 knapsacks.
6 rowlocks.

1 rudder.
1 tiller.
1 paddle.
1 luff tackle.
1 quart whiskey.
1 quart brandy.

9 gallons alcohol.
1 boat bucket.

1 pike.

3 small cedar boards.

WHALEBOAT.
3 Remington rifles.

1 shot gun.

245 Remington rifle car-
tridges.

2 cooking stoves.
1 2 pots.

12 pans.
12 spoons.

1 axe. 1 saw.
10 men harness.

2 rubber bottles lime

juice.
1 rubber bottle for
water.

8 galls, water in kettles.
15^| lbs. tea.

2| lbs. coffee.

9 lbs. ham.

8 lbs. tongue.
4| pigs' feet.
5 Liebig extract.
1 compass.

1 pocket chronometer.

9 cans (405 lbs.) pem-
mican.
Boat box, viz. :

2 snow knives.

3 candles.

1 paper tacks.
40 cartridges.

1 flint steel, tinder, and

matches.

2 fish lines.

4 hanks heavy twine.
2 balls cotton twine.

1 palm.

2 roping needles.
1 lb. salt.

10 lbs. sheet lead.
1 ball marline.
1 file.
1 hatchet.
1 lb. tallow.
1 lb. nails.

71 lbs. ham.

9 lbs. tongue.

4| lbs. pigs' feet.

7^ lbs. Liebig extract.

3^ lbs. coffee.
10^ lbs. sugar
20| lbs. tea.

1 box chronometer
(1630).

1 pocket chronometer.

1 pocket compass.

1 sextant.

1 artificial horizon.

1 box medicines.

1 boat cover.

9 single sleeping-bags.

1 single sleeping-coat.

1 treble sleeping-bag.

1 rubber sheet.

2 sled covers.

FIRST CUTTER.

2 rubber bottles lime

juice.
2 quarts brandy.
1 quart whiskey.
4 tin cases books.

1 tin chart case.

2 opera glasses.
2 cooking stoves.
4 dippers.

1 bucket.

15 mess pans.
13 mess cups.
13 mess spoons.
8 rubber bottles.

2 Remington rifles.
297 cartridges.

3 Winchester rifles.
22G Winchester car-
tridges.

1 ensign.

2 tins specimens.
9 galls, alcohol.
12 cans (540 lbs.) pem-

mican.
1 mast.
1 yard.
1 sail.
1 rudder.
1 tiller.

1 yoke.
6 oars.

2 boat-hooks.

1 brad-awl case.
1 boat sled.

1 hammock.

3 bags of clothes.
11 men harness.

2 tents.

8 tent poles.

2 demijohns alcohol.

IN THE BOATS.

7

1 pickaxe. 1 hatchet.

1 wrench.

1 shovel. 1 hammer.

3 candles.

1 bundle sled lashings. 1 pot grease.

1 spirit lamp.

15 fathoms small line. 1 bag nails.

1 flint and steel.

1 instrument box. 1 bag tacks.

2 balls cotton twine.

matches. 1 snow knife.

4 hanks hemp twine.

1 dog. 3 fishing lines.

1 palm.

Boat box, viz.: \ doz. fish-hooks.

.10 fths. 3" hemp.

1 marlin-spike. 4 sail needles.

1 lead line.

1 pricker. 1 piece sheet lead.

3 cedar boards.

The people are distributed as follows : —

FIRST CUTTER.

Lieutenant De Long,

Noros,

Dr. Ambler,

Gortz,

Mr. Collins,

Dressier,

Nindeinann,

Iversen,

Lee,

Alexey,

Ericksen,

Boyd.

Kaack,

SECOND CUTTEE.

Lieutenant Chipp,

Sharvell,

Mr. Dunbar,

Starr,

Sweetrnan,

Manson,

Kuehne,

Ah Sam,

Warren,

Johnson.

WHALEBOAT.

Mr. Melville,

Tong Sing,

Master Danenhower,

Aneguin,

Mr. Newcomb,

Leach,

Cole,

Lauterbach,

Wilson,

Bartlett.

713

All this work kept us busy. During the forenoon
Boyd called my attention to land to the southwest, but
after looking carefully with a glass I was not sure about
it. At 2 p. m., however, it showed plainly enough, and
extending between S. and W. (magnetic).

714 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

There was no doubt in my mincl that it was the Island
of New Siberia, but at 4 p. m. I got a time sight, and
that settled it. Assuming a latitude of 75° 30' N., I got
147° 50' E., and that ran through the western portion
of the island. The ice has packed very heavily around
us, and we are drifting west very rapidly. Close to the
land is a lane of water, which will be all we want if we
can reach it.

I called Chipp and Melville into my tent this after-
noon, and gave them information in regard to my plans
for the future and such general verbal directions as to
their boats, food, and other things as were advisable.
Ordering them in all cases to keep close to me, I think,
covers any other point ; for if I am always at hand to
refer to, they need no orders in advance, and if unfor-
tunately we get separated things must be left to their
judgment. In this latter case they will, without delay,
proceed to the Lena, and not wait for me or anybody
short of a Russian settlement large enough to feed and
shelter them.

The wind is moderating, and the barometer rising
rapidly at six p. m., and I hope for good weather to-
morrow, when, with God's blessing, I expect to start on
our journey afloat. Kasmatka too clumsy and big, —
shot him.

Being so near the end of this book I will keep the
remainder of my log in a second one.

Provisions in First Cutter, August 20th.

llh lbs. ham. 3£ lbs. coffee.

9 lbs. tongue. 10H lbs. sugar.

4f lbs. pigs' feet. 20| lbs. tea.

7^ lbs. Liebig's extract. 630 lbs. pemmican.

IN THE BOATS. 715

Issue for One Meal for Thirteen Men.

4^ oz. tea. Pemmican, breakfast, 4§ lbs.

8| oz. sugar. supper, 4§ lbs.

8§ oz. coffee. dinner, 6-2- lbs.

34 tablespoonfuls Liebig's

extract. I65 lbs.

Lime juice 1 oz.

STARBOARD WATCH. PORT WATCH.

Nindemann, Ericksen,

Gortz, Lee,

Alexey, Dressier,

Iversen, Boyd,

Kaack. Noros.

August 21st, Sunday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Last night Nindemann got sound-
ings in eight fathoms, — sand and mud. Rapid drift W.
This morning the soundings are the same, but there is
no drift. Fresh E. wind, but still much more moderate
than yesterday. Temperature 25°.

So much ice has closed in around us that it looked
as if we had never been afloat at all, and though the
wind has moderated, we cannot resume our journey.
There are no leads for boating, and no floes for sled-
ding, and our surroundings seem as icy as ever. How-
ever, I know that a change of wind will scatter every-
thing again, and I most hope to make up for these two
lost clays, though, in my human judgment, I deplore
the loss of those three hours yesterday as a heavy
blow.

Read divine service in my tent at ten a. m. At noon
got a meridian altitude. Latitude 75° 40", and making
yesterday's sight with this latitude, I get 147° 31' 30"
for the longitude. This puts us eighteen miles north of

716 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

the coast, and about the same distance from the West
Cape, — which we would have to round to get into the
channel separating New Siberia from Faddejew Island.
During the day such little things about the boats as
were left undone yesterday were completed, and I
think we are as ready to go to sea as we can be. We
are now living according to our boat organization, serv-
ing out provisions from our boats. Piped down at nine.
Wind N. E. Barometer 30.17 at 42°.

August 22d, Monday. — The situation remains un-
changed, and though the wind is now N. N. E., and the
barometer 30.18 at 32°, seemingly at a stand, the ice
as yet shows no sign of slacking. Clear, bright, and
beautiful weather. The land shows out plainly between
S. 30° E., and N. 85° W. (magnetic) bearings, and I
think we have gone something to the southward and
something to the eastward. Temperature 25°.

My birthday — thirty -seven years old. My last was
remarkable by my narrow escape from a bear, and I
trust this will be remarkable as dating an escape from
the ice.

Toward noon the wind backed to N. and the barom-
eter fell to 30.10. We have already commenced to
drift again, apparently before the wind. But my lati-
tude at noon was 75° 40', only a few seconds south of
yesterday, and I think it likely we are moving east.
Hoping for the wind to go to N. W. and loosen this
pack, we can but wait.

And wait we did, during the long day, without a
change in our favor. The wind hung at N., and blew
a moderate gale, but we are so closely pressed down on
the coast of New Siberia Island that our drift is but
slight. Still I think we are moving east, and if the
wind will only get some westing in it during the night,

IN THE BOATS. 717

we may find plenty of water in the morning. The ba-
rometer has fallen to 30" at 43° by eight p. m., and the
scud seems flying from the northwest.

August 23d, Tuesday. — When I awoke this morning
it was to hear the wind howling around us, and the
sleet driving against the side of our tent. The wind
was N. N. E. The barometer was 20.78 at 35°, and the
temperature 29°. We are apparently in for another lost
day. No one seems to mind our having no bread. Our
rations now are exceedingly simple. The coffee being
gone we have tea at all meals.

Breakfast : Beef extract, tea, pemmican.

Dinner : Tea, pemmican.

Supper : Beef extract, tea, pemmican.

Pemmican per clay one and a fourth pounds; tea,
one half ounce ; Liebig's extract, one half ounce.

But we seriously feel the absence of tobacco. Those
who have a little piece left use it rarely and sparingly,
and the lucky ones are few in number. The rest go
without, or smoke coffee - grounds, or coffee - grounds
and tea-leaves mixed. The smoking of coffee-grounds
gives our tent the odor of a grocery where coffee is
being roasted. I expect I shall come to it to-morrow,
for my last pipeful of tobacco is to be smoked after
supper to-night.

Soundings in forty-four feet, no drift, mud and sand.
No change in the weather up to seven p. m., except
that the barometer seemed to stand at 29.70 at 40°,
and the wind moderate ; but the ice remains jammed
as hard against us as ever. Wind N. E. Tempera-
ture 28° Fahrenheit. Just before piping down Ninde-
mann shot a small seal, which will make a welcome
addition to our next breakfast.

August 2±th, Wednesday. — Called all hands at five.

718 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Breakfasted at six. Light E. S. E. breeze. Temperature
24°. Soundings eight and three fourths fathoms. Slight
drift N. W. To-day, at dinner we in No. 1 tent tried,
our pemmican fried in its own grease, and as a change
it was excellent, I have been much amused all the
morning at hearing men in No. 6 tent talking about
good things to eat, and the conclusion reached about
the excellence of Boston baked beans and brown bread.
The extent of my longings thus far is for fried oysters,
and recollections of their delicious taste will come up.
The day passed in dreary stupidity. The wTincl grew
light and backed to N., while the barometer fell to
29.53 at 40°. The ice commenced to slack up a bit
without opening any way of escape. Mr. Collins shot
a seal, which gave us about three fourths pounds each
fresh meat for supper. Temperature 22°.

August 25//z, Thursday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Barometer 29.36 at 36°. Tempera-
ture 24°. Light N. air. Otherwise the situation is the
same, discouraging, disheartening, consuming provisions
without doing work ; owing to our having cut up our
sleds, we are not making inroads on Our alcohol for fuel,
and there is a slight comfort in that, but provisions are
diminishing all the same, whether cooked with alcohol
or wood. During the afternoon a seal was brought in —
twTenty-t\vo pounds — which gave us a good supper.

The wind at seven p. m. was very light and westerly,
sometimes N., sometimes N. W. ; and there was a very
little movement in the ice toward the east. Tempera-
ture 27° in the sun, fell to 24° in the shade. If the
change of the moon has had anything to do with the
weather, the new moon at six this morning ought to
have made a difference ; but except that the ice is
slacking off a little from our floe piece, there is no

IX THE BOATS. 719

more chance of resuming our voyage than there was
yesterday.

August 26th, Friday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Calm. Ice tightly packed still.
Temperature 24° Used the last of our sugar at break-
fast. This may seem like a loss, but the announcement
received no attention whatever. During the forenoon
Bartlett shot a small seal, which we shall add to our
usual pemmican ration. Got a time sight: 147° 38'
45" E.

Since the evening of the 22d I confess I have been
perfectly miserable for want of a smoke. This after-
noon, after dinner, Ericksen came to me, saying he had
noticed me going around without smoking, and he ten-
dered me a small packet of the precious article, tobacco.
I declined more than a pipeful, but he insisted upon my
taking more, saying they had enough for some days in
No. 6 tent. I sought oat the doctor and Nindemann,
and made them as happy as myself. And now, " Rich-
ard is himself again." Mr. Dunbar shot and secured a
seal, so we are in for a good supper.

And so another weary clay dragged along. By seven
p. m. a light N. W. wind had freshened somewhat, and
while the ice seemed slacking, much water sky showed
to the southward and eastward, and the temperature,
which had got as high as 28° in the sun, now was at
26.5°. Still no chance to move, and so far as human
judgment can perceive, seven days have been utterly
lost by three hours' delay a week ago.

August 27th, Saturday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six.* A clear, bright morning, but tightly
packed ice. Light N. air. Temperature 24°. At noon
I got latitude, 75° 37' 28", showing two and a half miles
southing since the 22d, and thus another day passed.

720 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

A freshening N. W. breeze. Temperature 26° at six
p. m. Land showed between south and west. Evi-
dently we are more to the eastward than before. The
bearings of the extreme of land showing are 58° E.
and N. 71° W., both magnetic. Toward eight p. m.
lanes of water could be seen between us and the land,
and running parallel with the coast, but we were sepa-
rated from them by a mass of confused hummocks and
water gaps, over which it is simply impossible for us to
drag our boats and provisions.

August 28th, Sunday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at 6.30. Wet fuel caused the delay. Light
snow falling. Wind N. W. Temperature 27°. Seem-
ingly more to the eastward in the brief glimpse wre get
of the land. Divine service at ten. The ice seemed to
be loose, and here and there swirling around. Next
the land quite a lead showed, and numerous unconnected
ponds formed below us and it. Hope for a chance after
all. At eleven Mr. Dunbar came to me and said he could
see the open water to the eastward. Going to the top
of the nearest hummock, I saw what I took to be the
open sea ; but shortly after, Mr. Dunbar came to my
tent and informed me that it was land. Land it was,
sure enough, and bearing N. 70° E. (magnetic), while
the extreme point of our old land bore south (mag-
netic). Apparently, then, we are between the two isl-
ands, — Faddejew and New Siberia, — and our being
jammed is accounted for. In one respect we are better
off, because nearer the Lena River ; but in another, I
do not like it, because no one can tell how long we may
be caught.

And thus another weary day passed away. No seals
to amount to anything, and as shy as if they had been
hunted regularly. Our drift along the land, which was

IN THE BOATS. 721

at one time quite rapid, slacked np by seven p. m., and
the wind veered to N. Numerous lanes of water showed,
but none which we could use. Temperature 25°. The
wood being all burned, we to-night had to commence
again on alcohol to cook with.

Being miserable all day without something to smoke,
I had tea-leaves to-night, and, to my pleasant surprise,
got considerable comfort. Soundings in forty-four feet,
mud and sand. Drifting south. At eight p. m. the
wind had veered to N. N. E.

August 29th, Monday. — I have concluded that there
is very little use in calling all hands at five A. m. day
after day, when we have no chance to move along —
and God knows the hours of waiting pass drearily
enough without unnecessarily lengthening the days.
Accordingly, all hands this morning slept on until 6.30,
and when up we found that the ice seemed more tightly
closed than ever. A mist and fog prevented us from
seeing the land, or anything more than a mile, but
within that radius no water could be seen. Tempera-
ture 20.5°, and light N. E. air. Soundings in forty-four
feet ; slight drift to leeward.

At twelve Mr. Chipp came to my tent and informed
me of a lead making south along the west side of our
floe. At once finished dinner, broke camp, and carried
our provisions across the floe and dragged our boats.
At one p. m. got under way, and proceeded south till
1.30, when we wrere brought up. At three resumed
our journey, making between east and southeast until
six, when we made south to south southeast until 8.30,
then, seeing nothing promising, I hauled alongside a
floe, unloaded, and hauled out. At 1.30 we had sound-
ings in six fathoms, at four in four fathoms, and at 8.30
five fathoms. The ice was in one great swirl and flurry,

722 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

and we narrowly escaped being crushed. Very rapid
drift before the wind. I hope we are through the neck
of the strait, and may go on to-morrow.

August 30th, Tuesday. — Called all hands at four
a. m. Broke camp and loaded the boats. Land in
sight, extreme point bearing S. 46° W. (magnetic).
Now what point is this ? Nothing can be seen of land
more southerly than this, and we can hardly have come
so far south during the night as to bring the southern
end of Faddejew Island on this bearing. Soundings in
five fathoms ; rapid drift southward. The ice was swirl-
ing around us at a great rate, and we were sweeping by
the land (probably five miles distant) at a good speed.
To launch and load boats in such a hell-gate was a tick-
lish thing, but I knew it would look less terrible when
we were once among the ice-blocks and went ahead.

x\t 4.50 we were under way. Got breakfast in the
boats at 5.50. Weather bright and pleasant. Light,
variable air. Making south course in streams of drift
ice. Barometer 30.32 at 26°. Temperature 20°. The
bright sun was very warming and comfortable, and,
whilst we had it, we forgot the low temperature. Soon,
however, a fog spread over us and nearly hid the sun,
and at once the weather seemed raw and wretched. At
eleven a. m. the land was seen by me bearing west through
the streams of ice in which we were steering south, and
I at once decided to head for it. Our water spaces were
growing larger and larger, and apparently we were at
the edge of the ice at last, and at the open sea. I se-
lected the best looking floe piece I could see, and ran
alongside of it for five minutes to replenish the snow
supply. Sounded in four fathoms, and headed immedi-
ately thereafter for the cape or headland seen on a west
bearing. Until I can get sigh'ts, or have some other

IN THE BOATS. 723

undoubted proof of the correctness of my surmises, I
can only think that the cape was Cape Peszowij. At
two p. m. passed the last line of ice between us and
the land, and sounded in fourteen feet water one and
a half miles from the land. At 3.10 made the cape,
but, to my surprise, upon getting to within fifty yards
of the beach, my boat struck in the mud. Com-
pelled to seek another place, I headed across the bay
for the spot marked as Faddejew Hut ; but seeing
a nice looking place for a landing, at six P. M. I stood
in towards it. To my pleased eye there was pre-
sented a grassy or mossy slope for a camp, whole trees
of drift-wood, and small snow piles which I felt con-
fident did not contain salt ; but alas ! wre struck the
mud a hundred yards from the beach, and could do
nothing. I lightened the whaleboat of all but two men
and Melville, and sent her in to try and make a land-
ing, then act as a ferry, but she struck fifty yards from
the beach. We pulled away again, and, anticipating a
night in the boats, we commenced to cook supper.

But I then perceived further south a piece of beach
which showed gravel and not mud, and I ordered Mel-
ville in to try it, relieving him of his men as before.
To my great satisfaction he succeeded, and then, acting
as a ferry back, he assisted us, and by 6.45 P. m. all of
us were on good firm ground for the first time in two
years. My relief was great after the strain of the past
ten days, and the mental tension caused by the last two
days' work. To get moss and grass under my feet
again warmed me, and my freezing feet got back their
usual temperature. We moved up on the mossy level
back from the beach and camped, and our remaining
dog, Snoozer, tore around in glee, chasing lemmings,
whose holes were abundant, while we human beings

46

724 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

more seriously sought for eatable game, Deer drop-
pings were found quite fresh, pieces of deer horn, tracks
of a hare, flocks of black geese, etc., and whole trees of
Norway pine. Ponds of water were found on the level
plain where we camped, and we promptly got rid of
the salt snow water and laid in a fresh supply.

Our last ration of lime juice was issued this morn-
ing.

After supper hunters went out. Light S. E. breeze.
At eight p. m.? barometer 30.30 at 30° ; temperature
24°. Increased the ration of pemmican to one and a
half pounds per diem, — three quarters at dinner, three
eighths at breakfast, three eighths at supper.

CHAPTER XVI.

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS.

31 August — 11 September, 1881.

Deer Tracks. — A Deserted Hut. — Coasting along the Island. —
Rough Water. — Across the Strait. — Separation of the Boats. —
Terrible Anxiety.' — Reappearance of the Second Cutter. — Letter
to Mr. Chipp. — The Hardest Morning's Work. — The Sand Bank.
— Landing on Kotelnoi. — A Retrospect. — Signs of Life on the
Island. — Hut. — Explorations. — Candle-Snuffer Hills. — Under
Way again. — Semeuovski Island. — Deer and Ptarmigan. — Ele-
phant's Tusk. — Record for Deposit.

August 31s£, Wednesday. — Culled all hands at five.
Light E. air. Temperature 22°, but the air seemed
as mild and pleasant as it did when the temperature
was above 30°. The hunters brought in but three
ducks, and a small number of sanderlings. Deer tracks
were found to be plentiful and fresh, and numerous
pieces of horn — one piece with the velvet still on it.

Mr. Sweetman and the steward found, about one and
a half miles below to the southward, a hut tumbling to
decay on the right bank of a small river. This is
doubtless the "Faddejew Hut," marked on the chart,
and establishes well our position.

The doctor this morning saw a ptarmigan. Break-
fasted at six. Turned to at 6.30, and carried everything
clown to the beach. Launched and loaded boats in the
inverse order of last evening. Under way at 7.20. At
eight passed Faddejew Hut, and continued to south-

726 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ward. At 11.20 attempted to land for dinner, but took
the ground three hundred yards from beach. Pro-
ceeded under sail, while dinner was on hand. At three
rounded South Cape. Saw several piles of timber, or
old huts. At 5.30 attempted to land for supper and
camp, but took ground five hundred yards from beach.
Whaleboat lightened could not get nearer than three
hundred yards. Concluded to go on under sail all night.
Barometer 30.42 at 29°. Temperature of air at three
p. m. 28°, of water 33°. Tidal action two feet five
inches. Ducks, owls, snipe, seals.

Accordingly we proceeded, and believing myself to
be clear of the sand bank, I shaped a course west south-
west, which giving us the wind nearly aft, was an easy
one to make. The breeze freshened, and we went along
at a fair rate until ten p. m., when, to my surprise, we
saw ice ahead and on both bows, and all at once we
stuck fast in the mud. We had encountered an arm of
this sand bank, and the ice was small pieces grounded
at its edge. From this time until midnight wre were
fully occupied in tacking and pulling to keep in water
deep enough to float us. The night was very dark, and
altogether our surroundings were wretched ; two feet
of water seemed to be all we could find, and then eight
feet, suddenly changing to two feet again. We had no
anchors, and nothing except pemmican heavy enough
to use instead. As our pemmican tins are all " holey,"
the use would involve wet and condemned food. I tried
to make an anchor out of a pickaxe and tent-pole, but
it would not bite. I next tried to hold my boat by
driving tent-poles in the mud, but she broke away.
Sleep was impossible for anybody, and we waited in
wretched discomfort for the morning's light.

September 1st, Thursday. — At two a. m. sufficient

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 727

light for going ahead and seeing our way. Managed to
get the first cutter and whaleboat around the edge of
the bank by pulling and tacking, but we got so far
ahead of the second cutter that she was lost to view.
At six a. m. I ran alongside a grounded floeberg (in six
feet of water), and while we were waiting for the
second cutter got breakfast.

At 7.10 Chipp hove in sight, and I got under way
again. Before this, however, we had pitched tents for
eating, and were nearly drowned out by the sea break-
ing over as the tide rose. Stood along good full with
an E. S. E. wind. Barometer 30.42 at 41°. Tempera-
ture I do not know. On the port tack, and kept a
man in the bows sounding with a tent-pole. Suddenly
shoaled to three feet, and before I could get around,
stuck fast. Whaleboat tried to drag me off, but got me
on a reef, and we nearly filled the boat with water.
Got off and proceeded with freshening wind and deep-
ening water, on south southwest course until noon,
southwest after eight, and at three, west southwest.
Increased water to forty-four feet, at twelve ; five fath-
oms, at twTo ; five and a half, at three ; eight and a
half, at four; nine and a half, at five; when having lost
sight of second cutter, ran alongside floe to wait for her.
We were making excellent time. The first cutter and
whaleboat going at times five to six knots an hour.
The sea was increasing somewhat, and unless we kept
our boats going ahead full speed, the water would have
come over our rails in too large quantities for our con-
trol ; as it was, a sea would come in occasionally, wetting
us to the skin and forcing us to bail, as well as pump
constantly. I almost welcomed some little streams of
drift ice, for they gave smoother water under their lee,
though presenting nothing large enough to hang on to

728 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

while waiting. At four p. m. I saw a good-sized piece,
and ran both boats up to it. I could see nothing of the
second cutter, but I did see enough to make me anx-
ious. The ice was coming in on us in all directions,
much as it did on August 20th, and I feared we might
again be caught. There was no ice around us large
enough or safe enough to camp on, and nothing re-
mained but to go on. I had full confidence in Mr.
Chipp's ability to take care of the second cutter, and I
had no doubt he would soon overtake and rejoin us. At
five, seeing a good large floe piece, I ran up to it, as be-
fore stated, got supper, and then camped and turned in.

Being successful in keeping clear of the sand bank
during the day, we did not see the island marked in
the middle of the southern edge ; in fact, I had given
up all idea of making for it, and was now heading so
as to keep clear of the sand bank, and make the south
end of Kotelnoi Island. The distance was about sev-
enty miles from the south cape of Faddejew Island,
and though I could not tell how far we had run last
night before bringing up against the reef, I estimated
roughly that by five p. m. we had run fifty miles of that
seventy. The land was not yet in sight, though low-
lying clouds from west southwest along to the right
indicated its presence. Everybody was wet and cold,
and we crawled into our bags with great content.
Temperature 26°. Wind increasing and promising a
gale.

September 2d, Friday. — The wind remained at E.
S. E., and was blowing a gale with snow, at five A. m.,
when all hands were called. Temperature 29°, at
seven. Nothing has been seen of the second cutter
during the night. Soundings ten and a half fathoms.
Rapid drift W. N. W. But very little sleep was ob-

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 729

tained by anybody during the night, and we devoted
the day to making up our deficiencies of two nights.
The gale tore around us unheeded, and were it not for
the second cutter's separation from us, it would have
been comfort to me. But anxiety and care seem to be
my steady companions now, and they are doubled in
intensity.

During the afternoon Nindemann saw the land bear-
ing from west to northwest, and he thinks seven miles
distant. The snow let up for a time, and occasional
lulls were noticeable in the wind. At six p. m. the tem-
perature was 29°. Thick snow again falling. Sound-
ings four and a half fathoms water. Drift not so rapid.
Lest Mr. Chipp and his party should be within a short
distance unseen and unseeing, I had a black flag pre-
pared and hoisted at our mast-head as a signal.

Piped down at nine p. m. So much ice has closed
around us that it is hard to believe we came here
through open water. No longer is the ice navigable
for our boats, and a shift of wind alone can send it
streaming away- To the westward it is held by Kotel-
noi Island, and to the nortlrward by the sand bank, and
all the movement that is now taking place is simply the
massing together.

September 3d, Saturday. — Called all hands at six.
Strong breeze S. E., though not a gale by any means.
Nothing seen of the second cutter or her people. Tem-
perature 29°. Soundings twenty-two feet water. Wa-
ter in sight to north and northwest (probably the water
to edge of sand bank), and strong appearance of land
west to west northwest.

Up to noon the wind moderated considerably, and
the sun made several efforts to struggle through the
clouds. I was in strong hopes that the gale was over,

730 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and that a favorable change of wind would occur. But
alter dinner the barometer commenced to fall again,
and the wind increased. By four p. m. a gale was again
blowing. The barometer had fallen to 29.90 at 32°,
and the sky was one dull, leaden gray. The land
showed quite plainly. Seemingly mountains back of a
coast line of the same height as that of Faddejew Island,
viz. : fifty to ninety feet. How far it is off I can only
guess, — it may be ten miles. What with my anxiety
about the second cutter, and the uncertainty of our
own future, I am nearly worn out, and the resumption
or continuance of this southeast gale, which more closely
packs the ice around us than ever, adds hour by hour
to my care.

But thank God relief came sooner than I expected.
At 4.45 P. M., Aneguin, who was on the lookout, saw
a sail and called us out. There the second cutter
was, sure enough, about half a mile off, skirting the
edge of the ice to northward, where it had apparently
grounded against the sand bank. When she arrived
abreast of us, she came to alongside the ice and hoisted
a black flag at her mast-head.

At 5.50 Mr. Chipp and Kuehne came over the ice to
us, and we had them to supper. They lost sight of
us at three p. M. on Thursday, and soon after nearly
filled writh water. Hauled out, etc. For further details,
Chipp will give me a written memorandum when we
get ashore.

I gave him the following letter : —

Saturday, September 3, 1881.

My dear Sir, — I am very glad to see you close to us

again, for I have been very anxious for forty-eight hours.

When we commenced dropping you astern on Thursday, the

sea was running so high that I had to carry on sail to keep

THE NEAV SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 731

the water out of my boat until I could find a floe piece large
enough to hold on by until you came up.

While waiting, we were beset as you see. If your boat
and people are in a position of security, wait where you are
until the end of this gale or a shift of wind enables us to join.
My intention is to make at the first opportunity for the south
cape of Kotelnoi, or a convenient landing-place near it on the
southeast coast, and as soon as water is laid in and weather
favors to go as far as Barkin (Lena Delta) via Stolbovoi
Island. The distance from south cape of Kotelnoi Island to
Stolbovoi is sixty-five miles southwest by west, and from Stol-
bovoi to Barkin one hundred and twelve miles west southwest
(see your chart). You will be prepared, after falling in with
me, to send one man to the first cutter and one man to the
whaleboat, for your load must be reduced so that you can
keep up.

Make every effort to keep within sight, and, if possible,
within hail at all times hereafter ; but if by any mischance we
should become separated again, make the best of your way to
the Lena River, and try to reach some settlement large enough
to feed and shelter your men before thinking about waiting for
me. I do not think the land is more than ten miles off. We
came alongside of this floe in ten and a half fathoms water and
have drifted into three and a half fathoms.

I intend hereafter to keep a small black flag at the mast-
head of the first cutter whenever the sail is not set.
Very respectfully,

Geo. W. De Long,
Lieut. U. S. Navy, Commanding Arctic Expedition.

Lieut. C. W. Chipp, Executive Officer, Commanding Second Cutter.

To-day, at dinner, the whaleboat and first cutter fairly
divided twelve clucks (seven to me, five to Melville)
which had been shot, — two at Faddejew Island, and
ten which were shot on the 1st hist. I knew the sec-
ond cutter had one duck and three sanderlings, and I
wished to keep our stock until we came together and

732 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

could make a fair division ; but the birds had been
washing around in the bottom of the boat, and I feared
they would spoil. Hence a good dinner was made of
them, and half a pound of pemmican per man.

Chipp seemingly has run about thirty miles since ten
this morning along the edge of the sand bank, and
where he now is (about one mile north of us) he is in
four feet of water, and can see the edge of the sand
bank as far as eye can reach. From our camp we can
see the land from west to northwest, and I am strongly
in hopes that the water extends inside of the grounded
ice even to the land. We are in twenty feet of water
and not drifting, and I have arranged with Chipp a sig-
nal for to-morrow morning in case I decide to cross the
ice and float again in the shoal water, in which case I
shall use his men to help. Fresh southeast gale still
blowing,

September Ath, Sunday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Strong S. E. wind. Temperature
27°. At 6.30 started ahead Nindemann, Bartlett, Iver-
sen, Lauterbach, and Kaack to cut a road good for boats,
and then sent after them everybody with a bundle of
some kind (sleeping-bag, box, or package) to cross to
Chipp's camp. Lee and I remained alone behind. At
8.30 started with the boats over the ice, but, owing to
very rough road and hard dragging did not reach
Chipp's tent until one p. m. This has been, without
exception, the hardest morning's work we have yet had,
for as our boat sleds are no longer in commission, all
dragging has to be done on the keel runners, and there
is no protection for the bilges of the boats. The ice is
massed in a very rough and confused pack, and sharp
edges are innumerable. Long strips are peeled off the
keel runners as we drag along, and the boats themselves

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 733

get many a scratch. By placing the mast athwart-ship
the rail, and lashing down to a thwart, sufficient lever-
age is obtained to keep the boat upright without much
difficulty ; but it is the sudden drop from a lump into a
hollow, or the slide and sudden bring-up, that starts the
seams and does the damage. Holes between grounded
floes are common, and occasionally a man breaks through
and falls in, and has to be run along to get dry clothes.
So little food remains that I did not dare take it out of
the boats and carry it by hand, lest a man falling in
should lose a can of pemmican, which means a day's
food for all hands, and consequently the usual heavy
weights of the boats were increased. However, at one
p. m. the water was reached, and we got dinner ready
with all dispatch, sitting down at two.

The water is here six feet deep, and the shoal or
sand bank lies north of us, and stretching along from
east to wrest about two hundred yards distant. About
one hundred and fifty yards from the grounded heavy
(i. e. six feet thick) ice, there is a long string of smaller
grounded pieces, and fifty yards beyond the hard sand
bank. This makes two bars, as it were, and offers two
channels which seem to run to the west for a couple
of miles, and then sweep around somewhere to the
right.

In order to avoid the sroundino; of the first cutter
(now carrying fourteen men, Ah Sam being our addi-
tion from the second cutter, — Manson went to the
whaleboat, now carrying eleven), I ordered Chipp to go
ahead, Melville to follow, and I brought up the rear.
At three p. m. we started (the ice having considerately
broken under me, and sent me overboard up to my
shoulders a minute before), and flew down the deep
channel W. before a strong; S. E. wind, with snow

734 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

squalls. After running two or three miles Chipp sud-
denly took in sail, and coming near me reported no
passage ahead. Turned about and made the two other
boats tow me in line ahead for about three hundred
yards to windward, and then went through an opening
into the shallow channel, and ran along to the west-
ward, as before, in about four feet of water. To my
surprise, the ice seemed packed in close to the land in
all directions, and I began to think we were in for
another night in the boats, or a hazardous camp on small
grounded ice lumps. Water enough was on our N. E.
hand, but that led towards the reef or sand bank, and
was, therefore, not desirable. By hugging the grounded
lumps close on our port hand, we worked ahead rapidly,
so much sea having got up that I ran away ahead of
the other boats, and kept the lead thus obtained, though
the risk of grounding was thereby increased. At one
time we were actually running N. E., at another N.
(being forced to bring nearer the wind on the star-
board tack by the long streams of grounded ice making
out from the land), but finally, at five p. m. I thought I
had got clear of the last piece and could run N. W.
To my surprise I had then on the port hand, or S. to
S. W., a stream of grounded ice, and right ahead, or
N. W., a low sand bank with one end seemingly raised
six or eight feet above the sea. Naturally avoiding the
sand bank, I attempted to hug the grounded ice, and
suddenly shoaled my water too rapidly for any doubt
as to our soon sticking fast. Rounded to at once, and
made fast to a grounded floe piece. When the whale-
boat came up I unloaded her people (except four) on
an ice lump, and sent her in towards the raised sand
bank to sound, and the second cutter was ordered to
follow her slowly and carefully.

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS.

35

Watching them closely, I saw they had no lack of
water, and I took in my boat the seven belonging to
the whaleboat, and drifted down toward them. I say
drifted, for we were so deep we dared not pole, and
still less did I dare to sail. Soon I met the whaleboat
coming back, and Melville reported plenty of water
right up to the point. Gave him his people, and went
on. The second cutter had rounded the point and came
to against the beach and I ran in alongside her, and at
6.30 we all landed on the beach or sand bank, whatever
it is, pitched camp, unloaded, and hauled up our boats.

What I thought I was doing.

What I was doing.

Now where are we ? Snow squalls, fog, and thick
weather generally prevented my seeing anything ex-
cept that we had landed on a sandy spot, with lots
of drift-wood, but whether an island, or a low beach
extending from Kotelnoi Island, I knew not. Dimly
through the snow the loom of mountains could be seen
to the westward, but whether distant five miles or fifty I
could not say. Everybody was wet and cold, — running
before the sea, with loaded boats, being no dry operation,
— and I was only too thankful to get a place for my
people where we were at least secure, to care much for
its geographical peculiarities.

I had been in my wet clothes since falling overboard,
and they clung unpleasantly to me, chilling me to the

736 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

bone in spite of the ration of brandy which the doctor
had given me when I was hauled out, and I was as
anxious as anybody to get a fire made to stand in front
of to dry by. Chipp said he saw thousands of ducks
fly around a point as he came in, but though I at once
sent Mr. Newcomb away with his shot-gun, he, at the
end of an hour, brought back only one gull, and six
miserable little sandpipers, about the size of a fly.
While under way, he shot and secured two ducks, and
I was anxious for more. The announcement was made
that deer droppings were here, and in anticipation of
what the barren spot might give us to-morrow, we sat
down to a pint of beef-tea, six ounces of pemmican, and
one pint of tea without sugar. By this time, we had a
roaring fire going, however, and though choked by
smoke and scorched by sparks, we stood around it and
steamed ourselves into partial dryness. Some of the
wood was marked with axe cuts and one piece was cut
for a log-house.

The S. E. g-ale blew harder than ever, and dark nio-ht
shut in at nine o'clock. Standing by the fire, with my
congregation holding wet stockings and other gear to
dry meanwhile, I read divine service at 8.30. Though
it was the first Sunday in the month and the Articles
of War were in order, I postponed them to a more fav-
orable occasion. When anybody felt like it, he crawled
into bed.

September 6th, Monday. — Called all hands at six
a. m. Breakfasted at seven. More of a gale than
ever, with blinding snow-storm. Wind E. S. E. Ba-
rometer 29.76 at 32°. Temperature 28.5°. No chance
to send out anybody in quest of game, so we must eat
our pemmican and wait for something else. I am more
and more thankful that I have even a sand spit to live

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 737

on, though I do not know where I am. Nothing can
be seen through the thick snow but a dim outline of
land to northwest and west, — but near or far is a
doubtful point yet.

Mr. Collins evidently had a bedfellow last night, a
lemming, for when he went out of the tent this morn-
ing, one of these little creatures jumped out of the
hood of his fur coat and burrowred his way into the
sand like a flash. Johnson says he saw a moccasin
track in the sand, which was made where none of us
had yet been, and it wras quite fresh ; and some wood
around us bears fresh marks of axes. Can this place
have been visited lately ?

A fossil bone was picked up by the doctor last night.
Finding numerous ponds along this sand spit, we, for a
moment, supposed that we might find good water, but
investigation proved that it was all very salt. The
snow-fall this morning gives us a fresher supply, though
in drifting over the sand before massing in banks, it
collects an appreciable amount of salt.

Mr. Dunbar looks quite ill, and I am afraid has
suffered more in the second cutter than he will admit.
When we parted company with them, they had their
hands full in bailing their boat, and when they ran
alongside an ice floe and prepared to haul out, Chipp
had to be passed out by hand, he was so cramped
from sitting in the cold water. Chipp at once served
out two ounces of brandy to each one, and Dunbar im-
mediately threw his up and fainted. I have noticed
that all the second cutter's people looked tired and
strained, and several of them had swollen faces. When
I get Chipp's account in detail, I can set all these things
down.

Anniversaries come around with queer comparisons.

738 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Two years ago we were beset in the ship, near Herald
Island, and to-day finds ns on a sand bank, — which of
the two situations is the preferable ? To go back with
the two years' experience to come, which we know we
have had, or to go on with everything unknown before
us ? I think I will pronounce in favor of the unknown
as less gloomy than the known. Toward noon the snow
ceased, the wind moderated, and the sun made one or
two efforts to shine through the clouds. Mr. Newcomb
went out with his gun, but got only two ducks. He
brought back, however, the antlers and skull of a deer,
pronounced by Alexey to belong to a young deer. Per-
haps wolves ate him.

After dinner I sent all the guns out but one. A seal
came close in shore, but before our gun had been got
he was too far off. Ducks made their appearance, but
out of range, had our shot-gun been in camp. Little
sand-pipers waded around the shore, and large purple
jelly-fish were seen. At two p. m. barometer at a stand,
almost calm. Temperature 29°. During the afternoon,
as our stragglers came in, various accounts were re-
ceived of what had been seen. Hundreds of cords of
drift-wood to the southeast of us, and curiously enough,
lying in lines northwest and southeast. Deer antlers
shed naturally. Places under six inches of water, etc.
Curious stones were picked up on the beach, among them
ammonites. Lee saw the ruin of a hut about one mile
southeast of us.

It may seem curious to some people why I do not go
around more myself when ashore, instead of taking
accounts of others ; but the fact is, my feet are swol-
len with cold, and my toes are broken out with chil-
blains, and I am unable to get around very much. In
the boat I am obliged, like everybody else, to sit or

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 739

stand quietly all the time, and my hands and feet are
in bad condition from the cold in consequence.

At 4.30 p. M. Chipp and the doctor returned. They
had walked about five miles out and back, and though
seeing deer droppings and antlers, found no game what-
ever. They found this sand spit to be the low beach
extending out from the main land, and we are, beyond
doubt, on Kotelnoi Island. This projecting piece of land
has a creek or river on its northwest face which could
be traced in toward the high hills (sixty feet high), and
we are seemingly at its broad mouth. From this fact,
and the immense amount of drift-wood seen by Lee, I
am inclined to think we are at the mouth of the Zareva
River, though I hope we may prove to be more to the
southward, and nearer the southern rivers about Bar-
encap.

Chipp and the doctor saw several ruined huts and

Hut on Kotelnoi Island.

much drift-wood. In one place the soil was composed
of rotting wood, being quite black. By five P. M. ev-
erybody had come in, but no game was brought. The
sky had cleared somewhat before a light N. W. air, and
we could see something of our surroundings. Kuehne,
who had gone around our sand bank to the southward,
reported that he had found the ruins of half a dozen
huts together, and around them piles of deer horns ;
and this showed conclusively that some people had
been here who could hunt and eat. Besides, Ninde-

47

740 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

maun brought in some fashioned pieces of wood, and a
hoop from a fish keg. I am inclined to think we are at
the Walakatina River. Leach came in at six, and re-
ported that he had crossed the neck which we are on,
and gone along its south side a couple of miles, where
he had found a hut built of logs, with rags stuck in the
chinks, and an elephant tusk ; we saw, also, some smaller
pieces of ivory. As the ice was closely pressed in
shore, no passage offered for a boat, but as he was
leaving, the wind shifted to northwest, and the ice com-
menced to slack off again. Alexey then came in. He
brought in from this hut a wooden drinking-cup, a
wooden spoon, a wooden fork, an elephant tusk, and a
small Russian coin, a copeck of the elate 1840. So
somebody has been here since Sannikov. Mr. Collins
made a sketch of the hut, and of its surroundings. By
eight p. m. a nice breeze from N. W. had sprung up.
The barometer was at 29.85 at 41°, and the temper-
ature 28°.

September §th, Tuesday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Light W. breeze. Temperature 25°.
Underway at 7.10, and proceeded very well until 10.30
(say six miles after rounding the point of the sand spit
and keeping away to the southward), when we were
brought up by the ice reaching in to the shore, and
leaving no lane for us to advance in. We turned back
to look for a chance off-shore lead, but none offered,
and there seemed but one of two things left to do :
either to drag our boats over the land, or wait for the
ice to slack off. Unwilling further to strain the boats
or tire the men, I concluded to wait for the effect of
a freshening wind. Meanwhile I sent away the men
with guns, and took advantage of the delay to visit the
hut seen by Mr. Collins yesterday. It was quite a^n

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 741

elaborate building with a porch ; and being plastered
with mud on the roof and sides, was no doubt suffi-
ciently wind-proof. No lack of fire-wood. Pine and
spruce lay in logs all around, but we had already spoiled
it of all relics. Lemmings without number ran around ;
owls, white and brown, are as common on this island as
ducks, almost, and of a great size.

At twelve we dined. The regulation fog had come
up and hidden everything, and the wind had all died
away. Off shore the ice seems somewhat slack, and I
made an effort to get the boats through to a lead, with-
out success. We were obliged to unload, make a port-
age, and embark again five hundred yards below. At
1.45 p. M. resumed our journey and tracked and pulled
along to the southward, following the coast line. In
vain did we hope that each piece of land showing
through the fog was Barencap, but at 6.30 Barencap
seemed as far as ever, and I ordered the boats in to the
beach for supper. From time to time I sent everybody
out of the boats, except the pullers, making them walk
along the beach. Occasionally we came to a steep cliff
without ice-foot or beach, and then I took them in. On
one of these walks the doctor found a slate cliff and
fossil ivory.

At 6.30 supper and camp. I climbed the hills and
looked for the land's end and the sea, but could see
little on account of the fog. The water spaces seemed
large, however, and that was one comfort. During the
drag overland, I noticed Mr. Dunbar fall out and stag-
ger to one side, when he sat down. I found upon in-
quiry that he had had another of his fainting spells, and
the doctor tells me it is some heart trouble. This is in-
deed serious, for in the hourly excitements no one can
tell what may occur to affect him. He has been cli-

742 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

rected to do nothing beyond steering the second cut-
ter.

We had, I think, by supper time entirely got clear of
the sand bank, for the water was bolder, and we stood
along in shore without difficulty. The cliffs made the
dividing line, and now, instead of the low, sandy beaches
with distant background of hills, we came to stretches
of candle-snuffer hills like our land at Faddejew Island.
These curious looking dirt-hills are in places seen back
from the coast line. In no place yet had I seen land
one hundred feet in height at or near the sea-shore.
Mr. Collins saw seeming excavations.

At eight got under way again, and proceeded until
9.45 p. m., when, having made three miles, ran in and
camped. I consider thirteen miles to represent to-day's
work.

September 7th, Wednesday. — Called all hands at five.
Breakfasted at six. Wind E. N. E. Temperature 24°.
Under way 7.12. About Barencap 9.12, took departure
at 10.30 and met big floe. Went to southeast to clear
it, but failed ; went to north northwest and succeeded.
Filled away again on course S. W. by W. (true). Wind
freshening. Ice streaming off before the wind. At
11.05 Melville called out he was leaking more than the
pumps could keep free. Ran alongside a floating ice-
cake all boats, and hauled out whaleboat. No leak,
plug was knocked out in coming through the ice chan-
nel six and three fourths fathoms (Barencap distant
about five miles). At 12.10 slipped from ice-cake and
proceeded, having cooked dinner in the mean time. At
1.45 double-reefed my sail, as I was leaving second
cutter out of sight. At 2.30 turned out one reef.
Strong* E. N. E. wind. Boats i>*oino* five to six knots.
Heavy sea. Boats very wet. Pump and bail all the

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 743

time. Cook seasick, then Mr. Collins at supper time.
At six wind and sea moderating. Water ration, one
pint each meal.

September 8th, Thursday. — At 1.30 ran into loose,
streaming ice. Bothered and delayed until 4.30, when
wind was found to be S. E. Ran alongside Hoe, and held
on until daylight. Then slipped and ran southwest.
Soundings in ten and a half fathoms. Strong wind,
rough sea. Everybody cold, wet, and miserable. No
sleep. At six weather changed. Bright sky, light
S. E. wind. Warm sun. Barometer 29.85 at 40°. Got
latitude at noon 74° 41', north of Barencap. Evidently
running before southeast gale some time before I dis-
covered the fact of the wind having changed. During
afternoon steered a course S. S. W. until four p. m.,
when, meeting a solitary floe drifting around, I had pity
on the wet and exhausted creatures around me, and
hauled out and camped. Sights place us in 136° 42'.

September 9th, Friday. — Called all hands at four
A. M. Somewhat better after our rest, but still wet and
cold. Light S. wind. An island in sight, bearing S.
57° E., distant fifteen to twenty miles. Is this Stol-
bovoi? Temperature 33°. Under way 6.20. Oars
and sometimes sail. Ran alongside floe at eleven for
dinner. Soundings seventeen feet. Stolbovoi Island
bears S. 89° E. (magnetic).

A very suspicious looking mass of hummocks resem-
bling land bore S. 19° E. (magnetic). Got latitude at
noon 74° 19'. Light S. by W. breeze, with occasional
rain or snow. Under way 12.15. At 2.30 encountered
immense area of loose floe pieces, extending to the ho-
rizon east and west. Pierced it southwest in a neck
about half a mile in width. At 3.30 sighted a low
block island to westward. Ran towards it. Calm. At

744 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

5.45 laid on oars for supper, twenty feet water. At
6.05 went ahead again. Evidence of tide setting to
southwest. At eight p. m. an impenetrable fog settled
down over everything, and so completely shut out the
land that after pulling until 9.40, three boats in a tow,
I concluded to give up for the night. Ran alongside a
rough floe piece, hauled out, and camped. Served out
tea and four oz. pemmican to each person, and lighted
a candle to see to eat it by. Dead calm. Seven feet
water. Floe aground.

September 10th, Saturday. — Called all hands at
seven. Breakfasted at eight. Light N. E. breeze. Tem-
perature 31°. Our Liebig all gone. Last used for sup-
per yesterday. Other boats out several clays ago.

Land in sight about one mile distant the northern
end of the island ; no doubt Semenovski Island, bearing
about west. Yesterday afternoon I saw a second island
(Wassilewski Island) to the southward. Underway 8.30.
Thick fog. Reached north end of island at 9.10. Stood
alono; its western edo;e until 11.30, when ran in for din-
ner. Island seems eighth of a mile in width. Fresh
deer-track and bear- track seen. Mr. Dunbar quite fee-
ble. Island seems washing away. Mud. Deer antler
found on top of hill. Teeth of mastodon found by doc-
tor. Fresh pond of water found on hill-top. Island
from thirty to one hundred feet high. Islands not the
result of river deposits, and consequently fossil remains
not brought here. That these islands had once trop-
ical climates is proven by the coal found on Bennett
Island.

Upon turning to at' 12.45 p. m., I ordered five of my
party to walk along to the south end of the island in
quest of game, and I directed Chipp and Melville to
send people from their boats for a like purpose. In

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 745

consequence, I had nine or ten people on the war-path
across this narrow strip of land. Proceeded slowly
along shore with the boats, and was soon agreeably sur-
prised at hearing several shots, followed by the cry,
" He is down ! " Being near the south end of the isl-
and, I proceeded to round it to pick up the people, but,
finding the shore too steep, I returned, and was pro-
ceeding along the west side of the island when I met
the second cutter with a fine deer in the bow. I at
once ran in to a small bay, ordered the boats unloaded,
the deer dressed, and a meal prepared immediately. I
was much pleased with the information that drift-wood
was lying on the east beach of the island ; that the
hunters had fired at two deer, though one escaped ; and
that a flock of grouse (ptarmigan) had been seen.

As I had made up my mind to remain Sunday, either
on this island or on Wassilewski, I concluded to be sat-
isfied with what I found here, and remain. Food, fuel,
and water secured, dry clothing, and a rest in prospect,
certainly I was justified in thinking a bird in the hand
worth two in the bush. Reindeer moss and scurvy
grass are abundant. As soon as we get something to
eat I shall send out the guns to secure that other deer,
and the bear, if such an animal is on the island. The
wind had veered to E., the thermometer at 32.5°.

Wassilewski Island in sight to the southward. The
southern end of this (Semenovski) Island is worn away
almost to a knife-edge. Standing around it in a boat,
one would suppose he was passing under the bows of
some very sharp ship. So intense has been the action
of the cold that large masses have fallen off the sides
of the island and lie prostrate on the beach ; and huge
cracks indicate where other land slides will occur be-
fore many seasons. There is, unpleasantly enough, ice

746 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANKETTE.

to be seen in large quantities, but I hope it is a loose,
navigable pack, and one we can work if necessary at
night. Uncomfortable enough as life in the boat nor-
mally is, it becomes absolutely horrible when, at night,
in a strong wind we suddenly encounter streams of drift-
ing ice. Unable to see, wet, cold, and wretched from
want of sleep, we grapple aimlessly with our foe and
try to overcome him.

I ordered one pound of meat to be served out per
man, and at 4.45 p. m. we all sat down to a delicious
meal of fried deer meat and tea. At eight I intend
to repeat the operation, and meanwhile I shall send our
hunters out for more game. An elephant's tusk was
found by Alexey, and a small number of shells by Mr.
Collins, about three or four feet above the sea-level, in
the face of the bluff. Bartlett saw a flock of ptarmi-
gan and killed three with one bullet. Two went into
a cleft in the cliff, and were inaccessible. Mr. Newcomb
shot another.

At eight p. m. we sat down to our supper proper, and
a second portion of deer meat was served out to all
hands — a little more than one pound each. This
gave us a royal meal and finished the deer, except his
bones, which we make soup of for dinner to-morrow.
We have thus consumed since dinner-time eighty pounds
meat alone — no bones — a little more than two and
one fourth pounds each, and are feeling comfortable
and warm. Wet bags and wet clothing are forgotten
in face of hot meat and hot tea. After three attempts
we got a dry place for our tents, and at 9.30 p. m. when
we went to bed for a long night's sleep, our lesser dis-
comforts seemed to fade away before the warmth and
security which Semenovski Island afforded. The wind
had freshened considerably, and was blowing half a

THE NEW SIBERIAN ISLANDS. 747

gale ; snow fell thickly. No more ice seemed to be ap-
proaching, and I have strong hopes of being able to
go on to the Lena without difficulty. All the hunters
returned without seeing any more game, except ptar-
migan. But as they only had a couple of hours before
dark they could not go very far.

September 11th, Sunday. — The ninety-first day since
the ship was crushed and ourselves thrown out on the
ice. Called all hands at eight a. m., a long and seem-
ingly refreshing sleep for all hands. Wind E. Barom-
eter 29.90 at 32°. Temperature 32°. At 10.45 called
all hands to muster. Read the Articles of War, and
then I read divine service in No. 1 tent. Wind fresh-
ening again, and snow, hail, and sleet falling plentifully.

The fawn came near the camp twice this forenoon,,
and once she got, unseen by him, within thirty yards
of Alexey, who took up the chase, and had not come
in up to noon. I think it is very likely that the deer
on this island consist of the one we shot and this fawn,
for the coining back to the place of separation would
hardly occur were there any others in the neighborhood.
The doctor's theory that the doe remained behind the
migrating drove in the spring to bring forth her young,
is a very probable explanation of their being here now.
No doubt these two islands serve as convenient stopping
places for the deer going north in the spring and south
in the fall.

For dinner we had deer soup and three fourths of a
pound of pemmican. After dinner prepared the follow-
ing record, which I shall deposit here in a tin case : —

Skmenovski Island, Arctic Ocean,
Sunday, September 11, 1881.

This record of our arrival at and proposed departure from
this island is left here in case of any search being made for us
before we can place ourselves in communication with home.

748 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

The Jeannette, after drifting two winters in the pack ice,
was crushed and sunk on the 12th June, 1881, in latitude N.
77° 15' and longitude E. 155°, and the thirty-three persons
composing her officers and crew succeeded in reaching this
island yesterday afternoon, intending to proceed to-morrow
morning toward the mouth of the Lena River in our three
boats.

A record of our doings was left at Bennett Island (discov-
ered by us) in latitude N. 76° 38' and longitude E.-1500 31',
and one (before the loss of the ship) at Henrietta Island (dis-
covered by us), in latitude N. 77° 8', longitude E. 157° 45' ;
and a third was left in a boat-breaker on the ice, in latitude
N. 77° 18' and longitude E. 153° 25'.

We are all well, have had no scurvy, and hope with God's
aid to reach the settlements on the Lena River during the com-
ing week. We have yet about seven days' provisions — full
rations.

George W. De Long, Lieutenant U. S. Navy,
Commanding Arctic Expedition.

The hunters all got back by eight p. m., but beyond
seeing many tracks they came across nothing. At 6.30
p. m. we had supper, — ptarmigan soup and fried pem-
mican and tea. We shall get under way to-morrow

CHAPTER XVII.

THE LENA DELTA.

12—30 September, 1881.

Under Way again. — The Boats separate. — Heavy Gale. — Shoal
Water. — Wading Ashore. — The Prospect. — Preparations for
March. — Copy of Record. — The Start. — Terribly Slow Prog-
ress. — The Last Can of Pemmican. — Diviue Help. — Straggling.

— Ericksen Breaking Down. — A River. — Huts. — Proposals to
send for Relief. — Well done, Alexey ! — A Respite. — A New
Start. — Trying to Raft. — Perplexities of the Country. — Fox-
Traps. — Enough left for Three Meals only. — Unfaltering Trust.

— The River. — Saved again. — Shooting the Deer. — Ericksen's
Condition. — A Moccasin Print. — Drowsiness. — In the Fork of
a River. — Doubts as to Position. — Flying a Black Flag. — Am-
putation of Ericksen's Foot. — Failure of Game.

September 12th, Monday. — Called all hands at five ;
breakfasted at six. Fresh E. wind ; temperature 31°.
Under way 7.30 ; course, south southwest (true) ; 8.40
abreast north end of Wassilewski Island ; 9.40 abreast
south end of Wassilewski Island; 11.30 came to along-
side ice for dinner. Run by estimation, sixteen miles.
Soundings, four and three quarter fathoms. Under
way at 12.30. Round to against ice at four. Whale-
boat stove. Under way at 4.15 ; freshening east north-
east breeze. At nine p. m. lost sight of whaleboat
ahead ; at ten p. m. lost sight of second cutter astern ;
wind freshening to a gale. Step of mast carried away ;
lowered sail and rode to sea anchor ; very heavy sea
and hard squalls. Barometer falling rapidly.

750 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

September 13th, Tuesday. — Very heavy northeast
gale all day until six p. m., when it moderated ; very
heavy squalls ; tremendous sea. Boat shipping a good
deal of water, she kept sea anchor abeam. At ten a. m.
got out the sail and attempted to ride under the lee
of it. After doing so very well for an hour, the sheet
parted and we lost sail and yard. Barometer fell to
29.35 at 35°. In the afternoon made a sea anchor of
oars and mast, and managed to ride out gale under
their lee. After six p. m. wind and sea moderated rap-
idly; clouds broke away; moon and stars appeared,
and auroral flashes. At eight p. M. set a jury sail made
of a sled cover, and kept the boat away to the west-
ward before the sea.

September lith, Wednesday. — Wind ahead ; sea
moderating rapidly. Rising barometer. Towards noon
the wind settled to about south. Boat making about
a west (true) course of about one knot per hour. Noth-
ing seen of either second cutter or whaleboat. Sound-
ings in ten fathoms. Served out eight and a half
pounds of ham instead of the pemmican rations at din-
ner.

September 15th, Thursday. — Light south winds;
much swell but moderating rapidly, Ericksen got
latitude at noon. My hands disabled since yesterday.
Kept boat on port tack ; making nothing better than
wrest under jury sail ; eight and a half fathoms ; sewed
two parts of jury sail together. Very little progress,
not one half knot per hour.

September lQth, Friday. — At four A. m. calm.
Sounded in six feet of water. Called everybody and
got breakfast. At six got out six oars and pulled south.
Seals numerous. Young ice met. At eight commenced
to raise little lumps of land on port bow and ahead ; at

THE LENA DELTA. 753

nine grounded. From this time until six p. m. strug-
gling to get into water deep enough to float us sixteen
inches; 'more than a mile from shore. Waited for tide
to rise, but there seemed to be only two inches in-
crease. Land line running east and west, low and flat.
Finally, at six p. M. ran up to a pilecl-up mass of thin
scales of ice in eighteen inches of water, and hung on
to it. Got ice from it for cooking. Ice and water
much fresher than anything from the sea.

Sejitember 17th, Saturday. — After a most miserable
and uncomfortable night called all hands at six and
got breakfast. Barometer 30°. At eight slipped from
ice and tried on the starboard tack. Grounded at
a few hundred yards. Tried port tack. Grounded
again. Struggled back to ice by eleven. Made raft.
Got dinner. Decided to unload and wade ashore. At
one loaded raft with tents, cooking stoves, and boat-
box, and though it was buoyed with two breakers
it took the ground. First load started at 2.45, —
everybody except doctor, Boyd, Ericksen, and myself.
Water knee-deep ; land one and one half miles off.
Returned from first load at 4.15. Hauled boat farther
inshore. Started second load (Collins and Sam re-
mained behind disabled) 4.45. Second load landed and
men back by 6.45. Hauled boat another drag inshore,
then say one eighth of a mile distant. Got her in to
one half of a mile distant. Then all got out and carried
load ashore. I landed at eight p. m. Dark and snow-
storm, but Collins had a good fire going. Sent every-
bod}^ except doctor, Collins, Sam, Boyd, Ericksen, and
self back for one more load, and at 10.20 had landed
everything except boat, oars, mast, sled, and breakers.
Got supper, — two pounds pig's feet additional. Negus
chronometer stopped at about eleven p. m., — only

48

754 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

eight hours after winding. Pitched camp. No watch
set. Chronometer reads 7h. 34m. 6s.

September l&th, Sunday. — Called all hands at eleven
a. m. Got breakfast of tea and pemmican as soon as
we could, and then the doctor commenced overhauling
us generally. Prepared to make a large fire to dry
us. The ground under us has been so wet all night
that we are soaking wet as a rule. Occasionally our
underclothes are only wet in patches, but as a rule we
are wet, bags, clothes, and all.

Sent out afternoon to the boat, and brought in the
alcohol, all clothing, boat-box, etc., and there was left
nothing but the oars, mast, half boat cover, water
breaker, etc. Had fires going all the time to dry our
clothes. We must look our situation in the face and
prepare to walk to a settlement.

For dinner had seven pounds of ham instead of pem-
mican, and for supper soup made from two ptarmigan
and two pounds pig's feet with two pounds ham instead
of pemmican. Snow, hail, and sleet, and strong wind.
Piped down at nine. No watch set. Divine service at
five p. m.

September 19th, Monday. — Called all hands at 6.30.
Breakfast of tea and five pounds of tongue. This ex-
hausts our canned meats, and now we have about three
and a half days' rations, pemmican and plenty of tea.

I ordered preparations to be made for leaving this
place after dinner, and as a beginning all sleeping-bags
are to be left behind. Foot-nips may be made of them.
List of things carried and left behind will be written in
here : —

THE LENA DELTA.

755

LEFT BEHIND.

1 sextant.

1 artificial horizon.

Mercury.

1 almanac, 1881.

1 useful table.

1 Chauvenet's Lunar and E^

Alt.
1 comparing watch.
1 cooking stove.
14 mess pans.
1 cooking pot.'
1 cooking pan.
1 box rock specimens.

Medical box, viz. —
10 rolls bandages.
2 oz. opium.
\ lb. cathartic pills.
2 elastic trusses (double).
1 case urinary instruments.
1 small operating case (par-
tial).
1 roll lint.
1 lb. cotton batting.
1 case sticking plaster.
1 clinical thermometer.
Small tray empty vials.

THINGS TAKEN ALONG.

2 pocket cases complete.

2 operating knifes.

2 small finger saws.

2\ jars carbolized vaseline (four

oz. each).
6 oz. glycerine.
6 oz. turpentine liniment.
2 oz. laudanum.
2 oz. cathartic pills.
2 oz. diarrhoea mixture.

1 oz. tincture capsicum.

2 oz. carbolic acid.
8 flannel bandages.
\ roll lint.

\ roll plaster.

J roll isinglass.

15 Dover's powders.

30 sulp. zi. powders.

1 quart brandy.

1 operating saw.

1 hatchet.

1 pocket barometer.

1 pocket compass.

1 thermometer case,

1 prayer book.

1 chart case.

4 tin cases.

Log books.

Papers.

Journal.

1 pocket chronometer.

1 Winchester rifle.

2 Remington rifles.

1 small Winchester rifle.

756 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

COPY OF RECORD LEFT IN INSTRUMENT BOX.

Monday, 19th of September, 1881.
Lena Delta.

The following named fourteen persons belonging to the
Jeannette (which was sunk by the ice on June 12, 1881, in
latitude N. 77° 15', longitude E. 155°) landed here on the eve-
ning of the 17th inst., and will proceed on foot this afternoon
to try to reach a settlement on the Lena River : De Long,
Ambler, Collins, Nindemann, Gortz, Ah Sam, Alexey, Erick-
sen, Kaack, Boyd, Lee, Iversen, Noros, Dressier.

A record was left about half a mile north of the southern end
of Semenovski Island buried under a stake. The thirty-three
persons composing the officers and crew of the Jeannette left
that island in three boats on the morning of the 12th inst. (one
week ago). That same night we were separated in a gale of
wind, and I have seen nothing of them since. Orders had been
given in event of such an accident for each boat to make the
best of its way to a settlement on the Lena River before wait-
ing for anybody. My boat made the land in the morning of
the 16th inst., and I suppose we are at the Lena Delta. I have
had no chance to get sights for position since I left Seme-
novski Island. After trying for two days to get inshore with-
out grounding, or to reach one of the river mouths, I aban-
doned my boat, and we waded one and a half miles ashore,
carrying our provisions and outfit with us. We must now try
with God's help to walk to a settlement, the nearest of which
I believe to be ninety-five miles distant. We are all well, have
four days' provisions, arms and ammunition, and are carrying
with us only ship's books and papers, with blankets, tents, and
some medicines ; therefore, our chances of getting through
seem good. George W. De Long,

Lieut. U. 8. Navy Commanding.

During forenoon Alexey shot a large gull, which we
made into soup for dinner, with our second drawn tea
and six ounces pemmican. At 2.45 went ahead, and at
4.30 stopped and camped. Loads too heavy, men used

THE LENA DELTA. 757

up — Lee groaning and complaining, Ericksen, Boyd,
and Sam hobbling. Three rests of fifteen minutes each
were of no use. Road bad. Breaking through thin
crust; young ice everywhere. Occasionally up to
knees. Conclude to send back log-books, stove, two
alcohol, one tent, binoculars. Built a roaring big fire,
and dried ourselves while we ate supper. Then sent
Nmdemann»back with Alexey and Dressier to deposit
log-books. They returned at nine p. m., when we all
crawled into our tents and tried to sleep. Bright sun
all the afternoon. Light south wind. Toward eight
p. m. became cloudy, and wind backed to S. E. and
freshened.

Sejrtember 20th, Tuesday. — Called all hands at 6.30.
Slept better than I expected on our wooden beds.
Woke up frequently to shiver with cold. Sick about
the same, but no worse. At 8.05 got under way. Left
No. 1 tent behind because we could not carry it. No.
6 tent is made of cotton, and sheds water better ; and
it is my intention to cut it at each end and use it as a
coverlet for the fourteen of us.

I found that our progress was terribly slow. The
sun shone brightly and enabled me to keep an idea of
our course, generally to the southward ; but so many
ponds with thin ice and mossy swamps intervened that
we were making a queer traverse table. The most
serious trouble was with Ericksen, who kept us all back
as he hobbled along a foot at a time. Frequent rests
did him no good, and at 11.05 I was compelled to halt
the party, for he was done up. Four miles made good.
Boyd and Sam did very well, though unable to carry
any wTeights. Every one of us seems to have lost all
feeling in his toes, and some of us even half way up the
feet. That terrible week in the boat has done us a
great injury.

758 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

Ordered tea made and pemmican served out. We
opened our last can (forty-five pounds), and in order to
make it hold out as long as possible, I so cut it that it
must suffice for four days' food. Then we are at the
end of our provisions, and must eat the dog, unless
Providence sends something in our way. When the
dog is eaten — ?

I was much impressed, and derive great encourage-
ment from an accident of last Sunday. Our Bible got
soaking wet, and I had to read the epistle and gospel
out of my prayer-book. According to my rough calcu-
lation it was the fifteenth Sunday after Trinity, and the
gospel contained some promises which seemed peculi-
arly adapted to our condition.1

During the forenoon we had almost got out of the
ridges of drift-wood, and I began to be uneasy lest we
should wander so far awray from them as to jeopardize
our tea and warmth. At 12.30 w^ent ahead again, and
almost immediately struck deer tracks comparatively
fresh. Elated beyond expression, I pushed ahead, fol-
lowing them, and heading about south, and soon came
to large masses of drift-wood again. Three traps of
some kind were here found, but whether to catch deer,
wrolves, or foxes I cannot sny. A fog was rising from
the southward, and I began to be in hopes that we were
close to the river, when a shout from the rear caused
me to notice that my party was straggling out too
much. Upon their closing up, I learned that Ericksen
had lain clown, desiring to be left. I rushed back, fol-
lowed by the doctor, and, by rating the man soundly
for his folly, got him on his feet again and drove him

1 The passage is in Matthew vi. 24 : " Take no thought for your life,
what ye shall eat, or what ye shall drink ; nor yet for your body, what ye
:-hall put on," etc.

THE LENA DELTA. 761

before me. But his condition is serious indeed, and he
can neither keep up with us nor be carried. Reaching
anywhere in four days with him disabled is out of the
question ; and it looks as if I must send the doctor and
Nindemann ahead for assistance.

Before getting Ericksen up to our halting place with
the doctor, I went ahead to send Nindemann and Alexey
on in the deer tracks, to see if we were close to a river
mouth ; but upon reaching the place at two p. m., I
found they had gone in chase of four deer which had
appeared in my absence. While waiting for results
built a fire. At three Nindemann and Alexey returned,
having seen a herd of seven or eight deer, but they
were unable to get a shot. At 3.20 went ahead again.
This time the doctor and I brought up the rear to pre-
vent Ericksen giving up, and we succeeded in advanc-
ing him a mile by 4.20. Here we crossed what I con-
sider a river mouth, from the enormous masses of wood
piled up on its southern shore, and as I had instructed
Mr. Collins, Nindemann, and Alexey to deposit their
loads here, and proceed in quest of game, I announced
this as the camp. If game can be obtained wre are all
right, but if not, here must some decision be made
about sending forward for relief.

At 5.30 hunters returned, saw plenty of tracks but
no deer. Supper at six. Light southeast wind. Ba-
rometer 29.87 at 50°. Temperature 29°. When we
halted at noon for dinner a little snow-bird flew around
us and finally lighted upon my flagstaff which I carry.
Mr. Collins immediately exclaimed, " That is good luck,
Captain." Such small things even are noticeable in our
kind of life. During the afternoon we saw what I took
to be a gate-post, with slots for fence-rails ; but Ericksen
says it was a loggerhead for a grain-boat or vessel of
that kind.

762 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Upon halting for supper we, of course, built a tre-
mendous fire, for the cords of wood along the beach
had no owner but ourselves. In front of this we sat
and roasted, while our wet clothes steamed in clouds.
Our beds we made of logs, and our coverings of our
blankets, and after we were all down our half of the
cut tent was hauled over us like a tarpaulin over mer-
chandize. Day's walk, five miles. <

September 21st, Wednesday. — During the night
snow fell heavily, and the wind increased. Our tent
cover blew away from us, owing to a mistake which we
made of turning in with our feet to the fire and our
heads to the wind. Besides this, we were all frequently
awake to shake, for I must confess it was a very cold
bed.

At six I called all hands. S. E. gale, snow and fog.
At 7.30 we loaded up and went ahead until 11.30. Boyd
and Sam made good progress, and Ericksen did better
than yesterday, but still it was terribly slow going ; four
miles was all that we covered in the four hours. I fol-
lowed the heavy timber on the south bank of the river,
though we saw no water except when thin ice let us
through knee-deep into swamp-grass and mud. On the
northern bank there appeared no drift-wood. Numer-
ous fox-traps were seen, some of them sprung. Deer
tracks were seen in large number, evidently made by
a large herd.

At eleven Nindemann, whom I had sent ahead of ev-
erybody to look for game, came up to me and reported
that we had reached a river one hundred yards wide,
with good, smooth ice along the shore. We had been
running about a southwest course, and this river was in
the same direction ; but now the line of heavy timber
was on the north side, just away from us. This gave

THE LENA DELTA. 763

me no anxiety, however, for enough wood remained on
our (the south) side to answer all our demands.

At 11.20 I halted and ordered dinner, which we were
d long time in getting, owing to wet matches, damp
wood, strong wind puffs, etc. To reach the smooth
river ice we had to leave the swamp and drop waist
deep in snow. A fox-trap was close by with a fox's
head in it, but the body had been eaten or cut off close
to the neck. Our plan of using one ration of tea for
all three meals has received occasional shocks ; as for
instance, to-day a small can of salt had been, I find,
carried in the tea-kettle for want of a better place, and
Lee has capsized it among the tea-leaves.

At one went ahead again, and at 3.30 came to a bend
in the river making south, and to our surprise two huts,
one seemingly new. In view of the action I am about
to take, I decided to remain here, and we entered in and
took possession. Distance made good six miles, this
one hundred and first day since we lost our ship. Is
this Tscholbogoje ? is now an important question, for if
this pair of huts make a settlement, our chances of
keeping on successfully are very slim indeed. Accord-
ing to my account we are now thii^-five miles away
from the next station ! ! and eighty-seven miles from a
probable settlement. We have two days' rations after
to-morrow morning's breakfast, and we have three lame
men who cannot make more than five or six miles a
day ; of course I cannot leave them, and they certainly
cannot keep up with the pace necessary to take.

When I saw these two huts — one evidently new, and
both habitable and intended for a prolonged residence —
I concluded that this was a suitable place to halt the?
main body, and send on a couple of good walkers to
make a forced march to get relief. The two I selected

764 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

were the doctor and Nindemann ; and I had a prelimi-
nary conversation with the former on the subject, giv-
ing him my views. He is to push on until he does come
to a settlement, and can get back relief to us. And we
are to remain here and try to eke out an existence with
two days' rations drawn out to their fullest extent, and
such chance game as may offer. Though loth to do
anything which seems like abandoning us, he is willing
enough to do anything that may give a chance for re-
lief, and by to-morrow morning I shall have his orders
perfected and my plans made. Go on wTe cannot just
now, and here we can have at least heat and shelter.
Seeing something across the river and farther down that
looked like a signal-post or a fish-frame, I sent Ninde-
mann along to look at it ; and some hut-like objects to
the eastward being seen, I sent Alexey over to look
at them. This was at four p. m. A flock of five small
ducks had been swimming around in the river, and sev-
eral rifle shots had been fired without effect. I had
caused a strict search to be made around both huts for
food of any kind, but nothing could be found. At six
Nindemann returned. He found a gull in a trap and
brought it in, but alas ! it was rotten. The trap had
been set for a fox or a goose, and baited with fish. We
ate our supper and crawled under our blankets. Two
good berths in the new hut gave bedsteads to the doc-
tor, Collins, Nindemann, and myself ; and ordering the
fire to be thrown outside, and the house shut up to keep
the heat in, I consigned myself to sleep. At 8.30
Alexey had not yet returned, and though I was anxious
to have no one away from me, I could not doubt he
would safely return. At nine p. m. a knock was heard
outside, and Alexey's voice asking, " All asleep inside ? "
and in an instant I was up. Sticking his head in the

THE LENA DELTA. 765

door, Alexey said, " Captain, we got two reindeer ; "
and in he came bearing a hind quarter of meat. Sleep
was at once forgotten. Fire was made, and cooking
begun in both huts, and we consumed about one and
one half pounds cooked meat each, finishing all that
Alexey brought, except two tongues, before we cried
enough.

Alexey went toward these seeming huts, and found
they were in fact huts, but very old. While walking
around and beyond them he saw deer traces so fresh as
to make him think the animals were close at hand. He
was in doubt as to incurring a scolding from me if he
stayed away, or to take the chances of getting meat.
He decided he would try for meat, and went on. Soon
after a snow-squall he saw deer horns moving, and by
strategy unsurpassed, crept upon a herd of fourteen,
and at twenty-five yards' distance dropped two. The
remainder at once left. Tickled to death, he cut off a
hind leg, and cut out both tongues, and staggered in
cold and wet. Well done, Alexey ! The darkest hour
is just before the dawn.

Sejrfember 22d, Thursday. — The hut remained warm
until toward daylight, when it began to grow chilly.
Called all hands at 5.30, and had a pemmican breakfast,
and at 6.45 sent out Nindemann, Alexey, and five men
to bring in our two deer. This, of course, changes my
plans. We can now remain here a day or two to let
our sick people catch up, and while living upon deer
meat on hand can search for more to cook and carry
with us. The two remaining days' pemmican is shut
up tight during our use of other food. Looking around
our hut we can see traces of Russians or other civilized
beings. A rude checker-board, wrooden forks, pieces of
pencil, etc., and other evidences of the use of tools by

766 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

somewhat skilled workmen. At noon light east breeze ;
temperature air 30°. Within the hut, at my berth in
front of the fire, the thermometer stood at 70°.

At 1.50 Nindemann and his party returned, bringing
in the two deer ; seven hours' walking was necessary
for them evidently. We immediately commenced get-
ting dinner, and at three sat down to one and a half
pounds each of fried steaks, liver, and heart. As soon
as we were through dinner we had to commence pre-
paring for supper, because, in our limited stock of
cooking utensils, a pot, frying-pan, and pot cover, we
can do but little at a time. Boiled down for two hours
a lot of bones for soup, and served out one half pound
meat for frying. At eight, therefore, we had soup,
one and a half pints each, and a half pound fried meat,
and at nine put out the fire and went to sleep, — sav-
ing our candle-ends for some emergency. Tea was
dispensed with also, because the pot was in use for
soup. The sick seem to be improving. Boyd is on
the rapid mend, Sam slowly, and Ericksen is no worse.

This rest, and food, and shelter will no doubt restore
their feet at the earliest moment, and I must simply
wait and hope. They cannot move now, and we are
so well off for deer meat (probably one hundred pounds
clear meat) that the necessity for separating our party
seems not a pressing matter.

September 2M, Friday. — Called all hands about
6.30. Breakfast, three quarters of a pound fried deer
meat, one and a half pints tea, at eight.

At noon light S. W. breeze. Barometer 29.80 at
55° ; temperature 25°. Appearance of high land to
the southward. Dinner of soup and three quarters of
a pound fried meat. From the surgeon's report of the
condition of the sick men I have decided to move on
to-morrow morning after breakfast.

THE LENA DELTA. 767

Took an account of our deer meat on hand. Meat
free from bone, fifty-four and a half pounds ; meat
on the bone, fourteen pounds; bones for soup, fifteen
pounds. After we had served out twenty-two pounds
meat on the bone for supper to-night, the fourteen
pounds on the bone wre shall have for breakfast in the
morning, and the fifty-four and a half pounds clear
meat we carry with us.

At three p. m. we each had one pint soup made from
marrow bones. At six p. m. had supper of tea, one and
a half pounds meat on bones, and then set to work boil-
ing down remaining soup bones for breakfast.

September 2Ath, Saturday. — Called all hands at 4.20;
at 5.20 had soup, and at six tea and one pound meat
on bones. Temperature 27.5° ; mild and pleasant.
Commenced preparations for departure at seven. Com-
pleted record [of movements of the party], placed it
in tinder box, and lashed it up on house-post inside.
Started the sick ahead under the doctor's lead at 8.05,
and at 8.20 I brought up the rear with Gortz, leaving
my Winchester rifle in the hut as a surprise to the
next visitor.

Followed along the bank of the river, rounding one
creek and going across the ice of another, and pro-
ceeded until 11.20, by which time we had made good
about three and a half miles to the southward, allow-
ing for all crooks and turns. Passed the ruins of three
huts. Upon rounding the creek, at the end of which
these huts were situated, and reaching the river again,
I was struck with the fact that it was no longer frozen
over, quite a little sea was raised by the wind showing
deeper water, and that the shores shelved rapidly out-
ward. Discouraged at the slow pace at which the men
staggered along under their loads, and worried by the

768 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

exhausted looks which I saw at each rest, it seemed to
me that if I could make a raft we might get along
faster or at least more easily. I concluded to try it,
and while halting for dinner selected suitable logs for
our frame. After dinner went to work again, but why
proceed. At 5.40 p. m. our raft, wretched and frail for
want of lashings, was finished, and at the risk of losing
all our things we embarked and tried to get it out in
mid-stream to send it along before the wind under sail.
But a strong ebb tide was now running, the wind had
grown lighter, and our raft was firmly grounded. In
disgust I abandoned the whole thing, and we again
loaded our backs and plodded on. I had sent the sick
on with the doctor afoot, towards some huts which
Alexey claimed he saw ; but upon catching up with
them at 6.40 I could see no huts, and Alexey now
thought " other side river stop," and I halted the
party, made a fire, and got supper. Wood apparently
ended ; all our trees being stuck in the banks and re-
quiring much labor to get them out. Dried ourselves.
One pound deer meat for dinner, each.

At ten made a rough bed of a few logs ! wrapped
our blankets around us and sought a sleep that did not
come. Day's walk, five miles.

September 25th, Sunday. — A wretched night, no
sleep, no rest, cold and stiff. Called all hands at 5.20;
three quarters of a pound deer meat at 6.30. Started
ahead at seven, and soon after crossed a creek, fortu-
nately iced over. Good road, and by 11.25 had come,
I think, six miles down the river. Halted for dinner.
Read divine service. Made the unpleasant discovery
that we had but eight pounds deer meat and two
tongues remaining. Some error in weighing before
starting, or in serving out. Ate all for dinner. Went

THE LENA DELTA. 769

ahead again at 1.10, and, thank God, came in sight of
two huts at four p. m. At 3.30 we had made four
miles good, cutting off the nose of the face in the Delta.
Here we had to take to the bluff, and the travel-
ing was heavy, terribly so, still the pace was forced,
and at 4.50, when the advance got in, they had covered
two miles more, making six miles for the afternoon, or
twelve miles for the clay. But recollecting that we
had no sleep last night, it has been a hard day's work
for us. I arrived at 5.50, having remained behind to
drive up Lee. A great trouble to-day was the way
in which our feet balled up. Occasionally breaking
through the ice our boots got wet and then collected
snow and surface crust readily, which froze at once
and made a man's feet as large and unwieldy as if
walking in sand-bags. It is hard to make the chart
reconcile with the country in some instances. Though
I left water in cutting across the neck and reached
water after crossing, yet we were all the time on a
smooth, frozen surface with a small timber line on each
side, and in one place the road had all the appearance
of a dried river bed. Here holes were encountered,
into one of which I and several others tumbled to our
waist.

Fox-traps were seen every two hundred yards or so,
baited with pieces of bird. Some of them wrere sprung,
but most of them were all right. The plan seems to
be to entice the fox within a pen by meat, in detach-
ing which he dislodges a small upright and a log falls
down on his back. One of our two huts had fallen to
decay, and was uninhabitable. The other was large
enough to cover us all, but it was very dirty. Some
deer horns showed that game had been caught, some
mouldy scraps w7ithin showed that the meat had been

49

770 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

eaten, and some wooden forks and plates showed that
more civilized people than natives had lived in the hut.
Several drying frames and fox-traps were around in
the vicinity. The land bluff was probably twenty-five
feet high. Supper at 6.30 — tea and four fourteenths
of a pound of pemmican. Turned in at 7.30 p. m.

September 26th, Monday. — Called cooks at 5.30.
Breakfasted at 6.30 (tea, four fourteenths pound pem-
mican). Doctor's report not so good. Ericksen has an
ulcer on the sole of his foot, and, though he can yet
walk on it, in a few days it will be too bad for him
to use it at all.

At 7.30 set Nindemann and the men to work to build
a raft for crossing the smaller stream, and sent Alexey
alono- its bank for a mile or more to look for a chance

o

means of fording or crossing on ice. No such crossing
could be found, and at ten, our crazy raft being ready,
we commenced to ferry over.

The first party consisted of Mr. Collins, Alexey, and
Lee, with Nindemann and Kaack to ferry. They suc-
ceeded in reaching the other side by dint of hard pad-
dling ; for though the raft would stick in the mud six
feet from shore, at ten feet no bottom could be got with
a ten foot pole.

At 11.30 the raft was back, and I attempted to send
a second load of five passengers this time instead of
three ; but it was too much, and I had to come clown to
three.

At 3.45 p. M. got the last load (the surgeon and Erick-
sen, with Gortz) over, and as soon as we could get our
priceless lashings from the raft we had our dinner (four
fourteenths of a pound pemmican and tea). This
leaves us exactly three meals more food and the dog.
But still the unfaltering trust in God which I have had

THE LENA DELTA. 771

all along makes me hopeful that some relief may be
afforded us.

At 4.30 went ahead again, and by 6.55 had made
four miles. Darkness was now approaching, and I or-
dered a halt for the night. It is hard to tell whether
we stopped on the river or not, for we came south south-
west and southwest; and, according to my chart, the
river should run west. We took a frozen stream south
southwest for the sake of the walking, and then cut
"across lots" to what I thought was the river. But
we shall see in the morning. Stood by for a cold night,
and no sleep.

September 27th, Tuesday. — After a cold and com-
fortless (and to nearly all hands sleepless) night, the
cook made tea at daylight, and at 5.05 we had our
breakfast, — four fourteenths pounds pemmican. One
more meal left.

Last night at our supper one half ounce alcohol was
added to our second cup of tea, to our advantage no
doubt, but it has nauseated me somewhat this morning.
At six we were ready to start, but Nindeinann saw
reindeer, and I sent him and Alexey in quest of them.
They were nine in number, and coining toward the
river, or down the wind.

Ericksen's foot in bad condition this morning. At
eight we heard a shout and saw our two men on the
eastern horizon. Sent five men out at once, and at 9.45
they arrived in camp, bringing a fine buck. Saved
again ! Eleven deer seen, — ten escaped.

I need hardly say how great the relief was to my
overstretched mind. Our last meal was on hand when
I sent Nindemann and Alexey off, and had they failed
we would have been obliged to eat it without advancing
a foot, and with eight miles more to make before com-

772 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ing opposite to a possible settlement. Our provisions
would consist of poor Snoozer.

Nindemann and Alexey crawled around to leeward
of the herd, until they went as far back nearly as our
ferry of yesterday. Here they got within one hun-
dred yards and fired, Nindemann's Winchester failing
to explode, but Alexey's Remington killing a fine buck,
— as much as five men could drag in. At 10.30
fourteen hungry men commenced eating fried deer
meat, and I must admit we ate three pounds apiece
before we were satisfied. Then I called a halt in eat-
ing, and weighed what remained. We found ninety-
eight pounds clear meat, free from bone, nineteen
pounds neck (for soup), and enough meat on the ribs to
make two meals alone. Besides this, there were the
soup bones, heart, liver, brains, and tongue, — in fine,
I think three days' rations, allowing one pound each for
a meal. If ever Divine Providence was manifested in
behalf of needy and exposed people, we are an instance
of it. All that I need to make my present anxiety nil
is some tidings of the other two boats and their occu-
pants.

The ulcer in Ericksen's foot has sloughed away so
much of the skin as to expose the sinews and muscles.
The doctor fears that he may have to amputate one
half, if not the whole, of both feet.

At 12.30 went ahead filled and comfortable, each of
us, except Ericksen, shouldering about fifteen pounds
of meat, in addition to his ordinary load. The doctor
and myself had each a set of ribs on our backs, and as
we trudged along all of us presented a queer spectacle,
somewhat of a nature to surprise our friends could they
see us. By four p. m. wre had advanced about three and
one half miles direct, but, by cutting across an angle we

THE LENA DELTA.

i (o

no doubt saved a mile more, making along the river a
distance of four and one half miles. Here, seeing lots
of wood, and more beyond, and knowing how exhausted
we were from want of sleep last night and our having
loads to-day, I called a halt, ordered supper (nine pounds
neck, seven pounds fried ribs), and made preparations
for rigging our tents against the bank as a kind of
shelter to crawl under.

We had had S. E. winds all day and thick snow, but
upon halting the wind seemed to back to the east and
grow very light. The river here seems to make a long
stretch southwest. According to my reckoning we are
only four and a half miles from a point opposite Sagas-
tyr. To-morrow will show whether I am right and
whether Sagastyr is a settlement. May God grant it is.

To our astonishment upon halting we found a moc-
casin print in the snow, extending from the water to
the bluff. Alexey says it is about two days old.
From the bluff wre can see across the river three things
which look like huts.

September 28th, Wednesday. — Called cook at five.
All hands at 5.55. Breakfast, soup (neck ten pounds),
ribs fourteen pounds, tea. Though last night was not
so uncomfortable, for we were under the lee of a bank,
and had our tents laid over us, we did not get much
sleep. For a few hours we lay stupid from sheer ex-
haustion, and the rest of the night we were kept awake
by the cold, and the shift of wind right along the beach.
Our breakfast was warm and refreshing, and we got
under way at eight. At 8.45, when I ordered the first
rest, I was sure we had made a mile ; and my surprise
was great to find everybody fall asleep, myself included.
We were evidently worn and jaded, and for every
twenty minutes' march I rested ten minutes thereafter.

774 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

We saw the tracks of two men walking along the beach
the way we had come ; and at 11.10 we came to an old
hut, which apparently (from fresh embers and meat
scraps) had been used last night. Here the river made
a long bend to the right, and anxious to shelter and
rest my weary party, I halted for dinner. A consid-
erable distance ahead of us on our side of the river is
another hut-like looking structure for to-night.

After getting my breath and resting a few moments,
I took a look at the situation and I was considerably
nonplused. Before us ran a river south southwest, and
at right angles to it, or east southeast, ran a second.
We were therefore in a fork, and in any case had to
cross a wide (one fourth of a mile) river before proceed-
ing on our journey. This involved a raft, and suitable
timber was neither convenient or accessible, even if we
had lashings enough, which we have not- I sent Alexey
along the stream running east southeast, and when
he came back he said it turned up more to the north-
ward and grew wider. I am inclined to think we have
reached the end of the Delta, and that the reason
why it does not correspond with my chart is because
the shoals of sixty years ago have become raised lands.
Sagastyr, if there is such a place, is five miles south-
west from us, if I am right, and the tracks of the
men seen this morning would point at their coming
from there.

If Chipp or Melville got through all right they would
naturally send back to look for us, and these two men
may have been on some such errand. At all events,
we are too much fagged out to do anything more with-
out some sleep, and I shall stay in this hut all night.
We had dinner (ten pounds ribs, five and a half pounds
heart and liver), and at 1.10 P. M. set Nindemann, with

THE LEX A DELTA. 775

Alexey and Gcirtz to patch up the hut and make canvas
door, while the rest were put at work gathering wood
for our use and for a signal fire this evening. I intend
to light a big fire outside the hut in hopes it may at-
tract attention.

At 5.30 we had supper (eight and one fourth pounds
bones for soup, one half pound deer meat), and im-
mediately commenced lying down. By eight p. m. I
had got everybody turned in, our signal fire burning
brightly, our hut closed up, and I went to sleep, worn
out.

September 29 ]th, Thursday. — One hundred and ninth
clay. Called the cook at six a. m. Fire had of course
to be made, and at seven we sat clown to breakfast ; one
half pound meat apiece and tea.

At eight sent Alexey along the river running to the
eastward in quest of game, and at the same time to
look for a chance of crossing it, or for a bend in it
looking to the southward and westward. The other
men were put at work gathering fire-wood. Excep-
tions : Nindemann, who was sent along the east river
seeking for materials to build a raft ; Gortz. who was
put to work erecting a flagstaff for showing a black
blanket, and in repairing our hut ; and Boyd and Sam,
who acted as our internal police, while the cook got
water for dinner purposes.

When I turned in last night I was in hopes that I
should find ice enough here this morning to cross the
river on, for though I think we have reached the end
of the Delta, I am not sure of it, and I do not like the
idea of standing still. No boat, and no materials for
building even a crazy raft. Water on both banks, and
but few days' provisions. One does not like to feel he
is caught in a trap. Poor Ericksen's condition becomes

776 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

more and more critical. The doctor tells me this morn-
ing that his foot is sloughing away very fast, and that
unless he can very soon be given the care and medical
treatment which only a prolonged stay at a settlement
will admit, his life is in danger. From the symptoms
of a couple of days back the doctor fears lockjaw may.
intervene and carry him off ; and in fact, it seems hard
to see how he can recover in any case. If we could
move on, and I forced him along, it would probably
shorten his life ; if I remained here and kept every-
body with me, Ericksen's days would be lengthened a
little at the risk of our all dying from starvation. This
is evidently a crisis in our lives. I can do nothing more.
We cannot cross the water until it freezes, or until we
are ferried across it. I may be mistaken in our posi-
tion, and we may be still twelve miles from the Delta
end. This river making to the east may be the river I
thought we rafted over some days ago, and we may be
that much out. Any raft that is built must be large
enough to carry us all at one time, for in such deep
water and strong winds, there can be no coming back
and forth ; and how can we secure enough logs together
to float us, having only a few ends of lanyards from the
mens' bundles ? The doctor and Mr. Collins started out
on a hunt, after breakfast, too, but beyond a ptarmigan
or two they saw nothing.

At twelve had dinner ; eight and one fourth pounds
bone soup, and seven pounds meat. At 12.15 Alexey
and Nindemann returned, having come together and
proceeded in company about four miles along the
river. According to Nindemann the river proceeds
indefinitely east southeast. Two miles from us they
came to a two-man hut, which seemed to have been
recently occupied. A portion of fish found there

THE LENA DELTA. 777

tasted to us fresh and good, both raw and cooked.
About one and a half miles from us the river was freez-
ing, and in a day or so might be fit to walk over ; but
no timber for a raft could be found. A few old deer
tracks were seen, but no deer. Nothing encouraging
in this forenoon's work.

I caused this morning a black flag to be displayed on
poles lashed together, about twenty feet in height, but
the weather is so thick I do not think it will attract
anybody. A large gull was drawn toward it, and Alexey
shot him, ensuring us gull soup for supper.

Parties out for wood after dinner. Alexey and Ninde-
mann rigging fish-lines. Sam plucking and making
ready gull. Cook chopping wood, and others repairing
or patching our hut or their clothes. At six had sup-
per, one half pint gull soup, one half pound fried meat.
At dark built fires again on the point in hope of at-
tracting attention ; but the attention of whom ? At
eight turned in. The wind moderated considerably,
and backed to W. N. W., and as the water smoothed
down I was glad to see ice form on both rivers.

September 30th, Friday. — One hundred and tenth
day. Called the cook at six a. m. Breakfast at 6.50.
Tea and one half pound fried meat. Light west breeze.
Barometer 30.10 at 65°. Temperature 16.5° at nine.
The main river is covered over with a sheet of ice, and
I have sent Nindemann to examine it for a crossing
place. Our hut remains comfortable for the first hours
of the night, but towards daylight it becomes so cold
and uncomfortable that sleep is out of the question.
Boyd and Sam are discharged from the sick-list to duty.
Ericksen is no better, and it is a foregone conclusion
that he must lose four of the toes of his right foot, and
one of his left foot. The doctor commenced slicing

778 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

#way the flesh after breakfast, fortunately without pain
to the patient, for the forward part of the foot is dead ;
but it was a heart-rending sight to me, the cutting
away of bones and flesh of a man whom I hoped to re-
turn sound and whole to his friends. May God pity us,
and grant that this is the only mishap that is to attend
the entire expedition. Now, of course, the man must
be dragged, for his walking is out of the question. At
the present daily decrease in temperature we shall not
have to wait long for the freezing over of the river.
Ninclemann and Alexey upon their return report they
crossed the east river about one and a half miles from
here.

At twelve had dinner ; seven pounds stew, or one
half pound each. I know this is not enough food per
day, one and a half pounds, for I am certainly hungry,
and I do not have even the work of bringing the wood,
which the men have. But our deer meat will last just
three days at one half pound a meal, and I cannot in-
crease the issue.

After dinner I sent Alexey on a deer hunt ; Mr. Col-
lins on a general short hunt ; the men for fire-wood, and
Ninclemann was put at making a sled-litter to carry
Ericksen. The doctor thinks the latter cannot live un-
less we are fortunate enough to make a settlement
within two or three days. Alas ! alas !

By six p. m. Mr. Collins and Alexey both returned
empty-handed. Alexey had gone, he thinks, about nine
miles, and saw nothing except old deer tracks.

Supper, one half pound deer meat and tea. Fire
going on our signal hill as usual. All abed by eight
p. m., our dirty hovel, unfit for a dog at home, seeming
a palace, because of the shelter it gives.

THE LENA DELTA.

779

DEER ACCOUNT — LENA DELTV

L

Sept. 21st

21 lbs

22d

21

7

" Bones ....

8

23d

11

«

11

" Bones .

7

" " ....

9

""....

22

24tb

14

" Cai'ry ....

54

" Bones ....

15

Two deer. Meat clear

. 96

Meat and bones ....

65

Bones .....

39

Total ....

200

Sept. 27tb. One deer, buck. Meat clear

98

Neck ....

. 19

Heart and liver

5h

Soup bones .

. 16£

Ribs

28

First meal (say) .

42

Total

209

Sept. 27th, 10 A. M., say

. 42

Supper, Neck .

9

Ribs ....

3i

28th, Breakfast, Neck .

10

Ribs .

14

Dinner, Ribs .

10i

Heart and liver

51

Supper, Bones

Sk

Meat

7

29th, Breakfast, Meat

7

780

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Dinner, Meat
Bones

. 7
8

Supper, Guli soup.
Meat .

. 7

30th, Breakfast, Meat
Dinner, Meat

7

. 7

7 lbs.

Head of a Siberian Reindeer.

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE FATAL MONTH.

October, 1881.

The Hundred and Eleventh Day. — Crossing the River. — Haltiug
on a Bluff. — Cold Nights. — Weakness. — A Man's Track Seen. —
Huts in the Distance. — Uncertainty. — Disappointment. — The
Hut becomes a Mound. — Camping in the Face of the Bluff.
— The Dog Killed. — A Fearful Night. — Under Cover of a
Hut. — Extremity of the Party. — Speculations as to Position. —
Death of Ericksen. — Burial. — Final Start Without Food save
Alcohol. — Three Miles More. — The Effect of Alcohol. — Ninde-
mann and Noros Sent Ahead for Relief. — A Spoonful of Glycer-
ine for Supper. — Arctic Willow. — Staggering Forward. — Alexey
Dies. — Death of Kaack and Lee. — No Foot Gear. — Iverseu
Dead. — The Last Recorded Deaths.

October 1st, Saturday. — One hundred and eleventh
day, and a new month. Called all hands as soon as the
cook announced boiling water, and at 6.45 had our
breakfast ; one half pound of deer meat and tea. Sent
Ninclemann and Alexey to examine main river, other
men to collect wood. The doctor resumed the cutting
away of poor Ericksen's toes this morning. No doubt
it will have to continue until half his feet are gone, un-
less death ensues, or we get to some settlement. Onlv
one toe left now. Temperature 18°.

At 7.30 Nindemann and Alexey were seen to have
crossed, and I immediately sent men to carry one load
over.

Left the following: record : —

782 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Saturday, October 1, 1881.

Fourteen of the officers and men of the U. S. Arctic
Steamer Jeannette reached this hut on Wednesday, September
28th, and having been forced to wait for the river to freeze
over, are proceeding to cross to the west side this A. M. on their
journey to reach some settlement on the Lena River. Ws
have two days' provisions, but having been fortunate enough
thus far to get game in our pressing needs, we have no fear
for the future.

Our party are all well, except one man, Ericksen, whose
toes have been amputated in consequence of frost-bite. Other
records will be found in several huts on the east side of this
river, along which we have come from the northward.

[List of party.]

George W. De Long,
Lieutenant U. S. Navy, Commanding Expedition.

At 8.30 we made the final trip, and got our sick man
over in safety. From there we proceeded until 11.20,
dragging our man on the sled. Halted for dinner ; one
half pound meat and tea each. At one went ahead
again until 5.05.

Actually under way: 8.30 to 9.15, 9.30 to 10.20,
10.30 to 11.20, 1.00 to 1.40, 1.50 to 2.10, 2.20 to 2.40,
3.00 to 3.25, 3.35 to 4.00, 4.15 to 4.35, 4.45 to 5.05.
Total, 5h. 15m. At least two miles an hour. Distance
made good ten to twelve miles.

And where are we ? I think at the beginning of the
Lena River at last. " Sagastyr " has been to us a myth.
We saw two old huts at a distance, and that was all,
but they were put of our reach, and the day not half
gone. Kept on ice all the way, and therefore I think
we were over water, but the stream was so narrow and
so crooked that it never could have been a navigable
water. My chart is simply useless. I must go on
plodding to the southward, trusting in God to guide me

THE FATAL MONTH. 783

to a settlement, for I have long since realized that we
are powerless to help ourselves.

A bright, calm, beautiful clay. Bright sunshine to
cheer us up, an icy road, and one day's rations yet.
Boots frozen, of course, and balled up. No hut in
sight, and we halt on a bluff to spend a cold and com-
fortless night. Supper one half pound meat and tea.
Made a rousing fire, built a log bed, set a watch (two
hours each) to keep the fire going, and at eight p. M.
crawled into our blankets.

October 2d, Sunday. — I think we all slept fairly
well until midnight ; but from that time it was so cold
and uncomfortable that sleep was out of the question.
At 4.30 we were all out and in front of the fire, day-
light just appearing. Ericksen kept talking in his sleep
all night, and effectually kept those awake who were
not already awakened by the cold.

Breakfast five a. m. One half pound meat and tea.
Bright, cloudless morning. Light N. airs. At seven
went ahead, following frozen water wherever we could
find it, and at 9.20 I feel quite sure we have gone some
distance on the main river. I think our gait was at
least two miles an hour, and our time under way two
hours four minutes. I call our forenoon wTork at least
six miles : 7.00 to 7.35, 7.45 to 8.05, 8.15 to 8.30, 8.40
to 8.50, 9.20 to 9.40, 9.50 to 10.12, 10.22 to 10.40,
10.55 to 11.15. Dinner camp. 1.00 to 1.30, 1.40 to
2.00, 2.15 to 2.35, 2.45 to 3.00, 3.20 to 3.40, 3.50 to
4.05, 4.15 to 4.20.

Divine service before dinner. Dinner one half pound
meat and tea. Started ahead at one p. m., and by 4.15
had completed two marching hours and made four miles.
I was much bewildered by the frequent narrowing of
the river to a small vein of ice, and the irregular ram-

784 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

bling way in which it ran. Frequently it led us into a
sand bank or deep snow, and our floundering around
was both exhaustive of energy and consumptive of
time. There is no use denying it, we are pretty weak.
Our food is not enough to keep up our strength, and
when we lose a night's sleep we feel it keenly. I had
several bad falls on the ice this afternoon which shook
me up pretty badly. A freshening N. E. wind had
blown the efflorescence off the ice, and left smooth,
clear spots as clear as glass. Frozen boots are but poor
foot gear, and besides cramping the feet, are like boots
of iron in walking. Slip, slide, and down you are on
your back.

At 4.05 p. m. I saw more wood than we had sighted
since our dinner camp, and but little ahead. I there-
fore called a halt and " camped," i. e., sat down, made
a fire and got supper. Then we stood by for a second
cold and wretched night. There was so much wind that
we had to put our tent halves up for a screen, and sit
shivering in our half blankets.

October M, Monday. — One hundred and thirteenth
day. At midnight it was so fearfully cold and wretched
that I served out tea to all hands, and on that we man-
aged to struggle along until five a. m., when we ate
our last deer meat and had more tea. Our remain-
ing food now consists of four fourteenths pounds pem-
mican each, and a half-starved clog. May God again
incline unto our aid. How much farther we have to
go before reaching a shelter or a settlement, He alone
knows.

Brisk wind. Ericksen seems failing. He is weak
and tremulous, and the moment he closes his eyes talks
incessantly in Danish, German, and English. No one
could sleep even if our other surroundings permitted.

THE FATAL MONTH. 785

For some cause my watch stopped at 10.45 last night
while one of the men on watch had it. I set it as near
as I could come to the time by guessing, and we must
run by that until I can do better. Sun rose yester-
day morning at 6.40 by the watch when running all
right: 7.05 to 7.40 (35m.), 7.50 to 8.20 (30m.), 8.30
to 9.00 (30 m.), 9.15 to 9.35 (20 m.), 9.50 to 10.10
(20m.), 10.25 to 10.40 (15m.), 11.00 to 11.20, 11.30
to 11.50, 11.50 dinner — 1 h. 55 m. — 2 h. 35 m., say five
miles.

Our forenoon's walk I put as above at five miles.
Some time and distance was lost by crossing the river
upon seeing numerous fox-traps. A man's track was
also seen in the snow, bound south, and we followed it
until it crossed the river to the west bank again. Here
we were obliged to go back in our tracks, for the river
was open in places, and we could not follow the man's
track direct. Another of the dozen shoals which infest
the river swung us off to the eastward, too, and I has-
tened to get on the west bank again, reaching there at
11.50 for dinner. Our last four fourteenths pound pem-
mican

At 1.40 got under way again and made a long fleet
until 2.20. While at the other side of the river Alexey
said he saw a hut, and during our dinner camp he
again saw it. Under our circumstances my desire was
to get to it as speedily as possible. As Alexey pointed
out it was on the left bank of the river of which we
were now on the right side looking south. But a sand
bank gave us excellent walking for a mile, until wre
took to the river ice and got across it diagonally.
Here, at 2.20, I called a rest, and Alexey mounted the
bluff to take a look again. He now announced that
he saw a second hut about one and a quarter miles

50

786 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

back from the coast, the first hut being about the same
distance south and on the edge of the bluff. The
heavy dragging across country of a sick man on a sled
made me incline to the hut on the shore, since, as the
distance was about the same, we could get over the ice
in one third of the time. Nindemann, who climbed
the bluff, while he saw that the object inland was a
hut, was not so confident about the one on the shore.
Alexey, however, was quite positive, and not seeing
very well myself I unfortunately took his eyes as best
and ordered an advance along the river to the south-
ward. Away we went, Nindemann and Alexey lead-
ing, and had progressed about a mile when, splash ! in
I went through the ice up to my shoulders before my
knapsack brought me up. While I was crawling out,
in went Gortz to his neck about fifty yards behind me,
and behind him in went Mr. Collins to his waist. Here
was a time. The moment we came out of the water
we were one sheet of ice, and danger of frost-bite
was imminent. Along we hobbled, however, until we
came, at 3.45, abreast the point on which the hut
was seen. Here Nindemann climbed the bluff, fol-
lowed by the doctor. At first the cry was, " All right,
come ahead," but no sooner were we all up than Nin-
demann shouted, " There is no hut here." To my dis-
may and alarm nothing but a large mound of earth
was to be seen, which, from its regular shape and sin-
gular position would seem to have been built artificially
for a beacon ; so sure was Nindemann that it was a hut
that he went all around it looking for a door, and then
climbed on top to look for a hole in the roof. But of
no avail. It was nothing but a mound of earth. Sick
at heart I ordered a camp to be made in a hole in the
bluff face, and soon before a roaring fire we were dry-

THE FATAL MONTH. 787

ing (and burning) our clothes, while the cold wind ate
into our backs.

And now for supper ! Nothing remained but the
clog. I therefore ordered him killed and dressed by
Iversen, and soon after a kind of stew was made of
such parts as could not be carried, of which everybody
except the doctor and myself eagerly partook. To us
two it was a nauseating mess and — but why go on
with such a disagreeable subject. I had the remainder
weighed, and I am quite sure we had twenty-seven
pounds. The animal was fat and — as he had been fed
on pemmican — presumably clean, but —

Immediately upon halting I had sent off Alexey with
his gun toward the hut inland, to determine whether
that was a myth like our present one. He returned
about dark, certain that it was a large hut, for he had
been inside of it, and had found some deer meat,
scraps, and bones. For a moment I was tempted to
start everybody for it, but Alexey was by no means
sure he could find it in the dark, and if we lost our
way we should be worse off than before. We accord-
ingly prepared to make the best of it where we were.

We three wet people were burning and steaming be-
fore the fire. Collins and Gortz had taken some alco-
hol, but I could not get it down. Cold, wet, with a
raw N. W. wind impossible to avoid or screen, our fu-
ture was a wretched, dreary night. Ericksen soon be-
came delirious, and his talking was a horrible accompa-
niment to the wretchedness of our surroundings. Warm
we could not get, and getting dry seemed out of the
question. Nearly everybody seemed dazed and stupe-
fied, and I feared that some of us would perish during
the night. How cold it was I do not know, for my
last thermometer was broken in my many falls on the

788 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ice, but I think it must have been below zero. A
watch was set to keep the fire going and we huddled
around it, and thus our third night without sleep
was passed. If Alexey had not wrapped his sealskin
around me and sat down alongside of me to keep me
warm by the heat of his body, I think I should have
frozen to death. As it was I steamed, and shivered,
and shook. Erickseri's groans and rambling talk rang
out on the night air, and such a dreary, wretched night
I hope I shall never see again.

October 4:th, Tuesday. — One hundred and fourteenth
day. At the first approach of daylight we all began
to move around, and the cook was set to work making
tea. The doctor now made the unpleasant discovery
that during the night Ericksen had got his gloves off
and that now his hands were frozen. Men were at
once set to work rubbing them, and by six A. m. we
had so far restored circulation as to risk moving the
man. Each one had hastily swallowed a cup of tea,
and got his load in readiness. Ericksen was quite un-
conscious, and we lashed him on the sled. A S. W.
gale was blowing, and the sensation of cold was in-
tense ; but at six A. m. we started, made a forced fleet
of it, and at eight a. m. had got the man and ourselves,
thank God, under the cover of a hut large enough to
hold us. Here we at once made a fire, and for the
first time since Saturday morning last got warm.

The doctor at once examined Ericksen and found
him very low indeed. His pulse was very feeble, he
was quite unconscious, and under the shock of the
exposure of the past night he was sinking very fast.
Fears were entertained that he might not last many
hours, and I therefore called upon every one to join
with me in reading the prayers for a sick person before

THE FATAL MONTH. 789

we sought any rest for ourselves. This was done in a
quiet and reverent manner, though I fear ray broken
utterances made but little of the service audible. Then
setting a watch we all, except Alexey, laid down to
sleep at ten a. m. Alexey went off to hunt, but re-
turned at noon wet, having broken through the ice and
fallen in the river.

At six p. m. all roused up, and I considered it nec-
essary to think of some food for my party. Half a
pound of dog was fried for each one and a cup of tea
given, and that constituted our clay's food. But we
were so grateful that we were not exposed to the
merciless S. W. gale that tore around us that we did
not mind short rations.

October bth, Wednesday. — One hundred and fif-
teenth day. The cook commenced at 7.30 to get tea,
made from yesterday's tea leaves. Nothing can be
served out to eat until evening. One half pound dog
per day is our food until some relief is afforded us.
Alexey went off hunting again at nine, and I set the
men to work collecting light sticks enough to make a
flooring for the house, for the frozen ground thawing
under everybody has kept them damp and wet and
robbed them of much sleep.

S. W. gale continues. Mortification has set in in
Ericksen's leg and he is sinking. Amputation would
be of no use, for he would probably die under the op-
eration. He is partially conscious. At twelve Alexey
came back, having seen nothing. He crossed the river
this time, but unable longer to face the cold gale was
obliged to return.

I am of the opinion that we are on Tit Ary Island,
on its eastern side, and about twenty-five miles from
Ku Mark Surka, which I take to be a settlement. This

790 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

is a last hope, for our Sagastyr has long since faded
away. The hut in which we are is quite new, and
clearly not the astronomical station marked on my
chart. In fact this hut is not finished, having no door
and no porch. It may be intended for a summer hut,
though the numerous set fox- traps would lead me to
suppose that it would occasionally be visited at other
times. Upon this last chance and one other seem to
rest all our hopes of escape, for I can see nothing
more to be done. As soon as this gale abates I shall
send Nindemann and one other man to make a forced
march to Ku Mark Surka for relief. At six p. m. served
out one half pound of clog meat and second-hand tea,
and then went to sleep.

October 6th, Thursday. — One hundred and sixteenth
day. Called all hands at 7.30. Had a cup of third-
hand tea with one half ounce of alcohol in it. Every-
body very weak. Gale moderating somewhat. Sent
Alexey out to hunt. Shall start Nindemann and Noros
at noon to make the forced march to Ku Mark Surka.
At 8.45 a. m. our messmate Ericksen departed this life.
Addressed a few words of cheer and comfort to the
men. Alexey came back empty-handed. Too much
drifting snow. What in God's name is going to become
of us, — fourteen pounds dog meat left, and twenty-
five miles to a possible settlement? As to burying
Ericksen, I cannot dig a grave, for the ground is frozen
and we have nothing to dig with. There is nothing to
do but to bury him in the river. Sewed him up in the
flaps of the tent, and covered him with my flag. Got
tea ready, and with one half ounce alcohol we will try
to make out to bury him. But we are all so weak that
I do not see how we are going to move.

At 12.40 p. m. read the burial service and carried our

THE FATAL MONTH. 791

departed shipmate's body down to the river, where, a
hole having been cut in the ice, he was buried ; three
volleys from our two Remingtons being fired over him
as a funeral honor.

A board was prepared with this cut on it : — -

IN MEMORY

H. H. ERICKSEN,

Oct. 6, 1881.
U. S. S. Jeannette.

and this will be stuck in the river bank abreast his
grave.

His clothing was divided up among his messmates.
Iversen has his Bible and a lock of his hair. Kaack
has a lock of his hair.

Supper at five p. m. — one half pound dog meat and
tea.

October 7 th, Friday. — One hundred and seventeenth
day. Breakfast, consisting of our last one half pound
dog meat and tea. Our last grain of tea was put in
the kettle this morning, and we are now about to un-
dertake our journey of twenty-five miles with some old
tea-leaves and two quarts alcohol. However, I trust in
God, and I believe that He who has fed us thus far will
not suffer us to die of want now.

Commenced preparations for departure at 7.10. Our
Winchester rifle being out of order is, with one hun-
dred and sixty-one rounds ammunition, left behind.
We have with us two Remingtons and two hundred
and forty-three rounds ammunition. Left the follow-
ing record in the hut : —

Friday, October 7, 1881.

The undermentioned officers and men of the late U. S.
Steamer Jeannette are leaving here this morning to make a

792 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

forced march to Ku Mark Surka, or some other settlement on
the Lena River. We reached here on Tuesday, October 4th,
with a disabled comrade, H. H. Ericksen (seaman), who died
yesterday morning, and was buried in the river at noon. His
death resulted from frost-bite and exhaustion, due to conse-
quent exposure. The rest of us are well, but have no pro-
visions left — having eaten our last this morning.

Under way at 8.30 and proceeded until 11.20, by
which time we had made about three miles. Here we
were all pretty well done up, and, moreover, seemed to
be wandering in a labyrinth. A large lump of wood
swept in by an eddy seemed to be a likely place to get
hot water, and I halted the party. For dinner we had
one ounce alcohol in a pot of tea. Then went ahead,
and soon struck what seemed like the river again.
Here four of us broke through the ice in trying to
cross, and fearing frost-bite I had a fire built on the
west bank to dry us. Sent Alexey off meanwhile to
look for food, directing him not to go far nor to stay
long; but at 3.30 he had not returned, nor was he in
sight. Light S. W. breeze, hazy ; mountains in sight
to southward.

At 5.30 Alexey returned with one ptarmigan, of
which we made soup, and with one half ounce alcohol
had our supper. Then crawled under our blankets for
a sleep. Light W. breeze ; full moon ; starlight. Not
very cold. Alexey saw river a mile wide with no ice
in it.

October &th, Saturday. — One hundred and eigh-
teenth clay. Called all hands at 5.30. Breakfast, one
ounce alcohol in a pint of hot water. Doctor's note :
Alcohol proves of great advantage ; keeps off craving
for food, preventing gnawing at stomach, and has kept
up the strength of the men, as given, — three ounces

NINDEMANN AND NOROS IN SEARCH OF HELP

THE FATAL MONTH. 795

per day as estimated, and in accordance with Dr. An-
stie's experiments.

Went ahead until 10.30 ; one ounce alcohol 6.30
to 10.30 ; five miles ; struck big river ; 11.30 ahead
again ; sand bank. Meet small river. Have to turn
back. Halt at five. Only made advance one mile
more. Hard luck. Snow ; S. S. E. wind. Cold camp ;
but little wood ; one half ounce alcohol.

October* 9th, Sunday. — One hundred and nineteenth
day. All hands at 4.30 one ounce alcohol. Read di-
vine service. Send Nindemann and Noros ahead for
relief ; they carry their blankets, one rifle, forty rounds
ammunition, two ounces alcohol. Orders to keep west
bank of river until they reach settlement. They
started at seven ; cheered them. Under way at eight.
Crossed creek. Broke through ice. All wet up to
knees. Stopped and built fires. Dried clothes. Un-
der way again at 10.30. Lee breaking down. At one
strike river bank. Halt for dinner, — one ounce alco-
hol. Alexey shot three ptarmigans. Made soup. We
are following Ninclemann's track, though he is long
since out of sight. Under way at 3.30. High bluff.
Ice running rapidly to northward in river. Halt at 4.40
upon coming to wood. Find canoe. Lay our heads on
it and go to sleep ; one half ounce alcohol for supper.

October 10th, Monday. — One hundred and twentieth
day. Last half ounce alcohol at 5.30 ; at 6.30 send
Alexey off to look for ptarmigan. Eat deerskin scraps.
Yesterday morning ate my deerskin foot-nips. Light
S. S. E. airs. Not very cold. Under way at eight. In
crossing creek three of us got wet. Built fire and
dried out. Ahead again until eleven. Used up. Built
fire. Made a drink out of the tea-leaves from alcohol
bottle. On again at noon. Fresh S. S. W. wind, drift-

796 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ing snow, very bard going. Lee begging to be left.
Some little beach, and then long stretches of high bank.
Ptarmigan tracks plentiful. Following Nindemann's
tracks. At three halted, used up ; crawled into a hole
in the bank, collected wood and built fire. Alexey
away in quest of game. Nothing for supper except a
spoonful of glycerine. All hands weak and feeble, but
cheerful. God help us.

October 11th, Tuesday. — One hundred and twenty-
first day. S. W. gale with snow. Unable to move. No
game. One spoonful glycerine and hot water for food.
No more wood in our vicinity.

October 12th, Wednesday. — One hundred and
twenty-second day. Breakfast ; last spoonful glycerine
and hot water. For dinner we tried a couple of hancl-
fuls of Arctic willow in a pot of water and drank the
infusion. Everybody getting wTeaker and weaker.
Hardly strength to get fire-wood. S. W. gale with
snow.

October loth, Thursday. — One hundred and twenty-
third day. Willow tea. Strong S. W. wind. No news
from Nindemann. We are in the hands of God, and
unless He intervenes we are lost. We cannot move
against the wind, and staying here means starvation.
Afternoon went ahead for a mile, crossing either another
river or a bend in the big one. After crossing, missed
Lee. Went down in a hole in the bank and camped.
Sent back for Lee. He had turned back, lain down,
and was waiting to die. All united in saying Lord's
Prayer and Creed after supper. Living gale of wind.
Horrible night.

October lith, Friday. — One hundred and twenty-
fourth day. Breakfast, willow tea. Dinner, one half
teaspoonful sweet oil and willow tea. Alexey shot one
ptarmigan. Had soup. S. W. wind, moderating.

THE FATAL MONTH. 797

October 15th, Saturday. — One hundred and twenty-
fifth day. Breakfast, willow tea and two old boots.
Conclude to move on at sunrise. Alexey breaks down,
also Lee. Come to empty grain raft. Halt and camp.
Signs of smoke at twilight to southward.

October lQth, Sunday. — One hundred and twenty-
sixth day. Alexey broken down. Divine service.

October 11th, Monday. — One hundred and twenty-
seventh day. Alexey dying. Doctor baptized him.
Head prayers for sick. Mr. Collins' birthday — forty
years old. About sunset Alexey died. Exhaustion
from starvation. Covered him with ensign and laid
him in the crib.

October 18th, Tuesday. — One hundred and twenty-
eighth day. Calm and mild, snow falling. Buried
Alexey in the afternoon. Laid him on the ice of the
river, and covered him over with slabs of ice.

October 19th, Wednesday. — One hundred and
twenty-ninth day. Cutting up tent to make foot gear.
Doctor went ahead to find new camp. Shifted by dark.

October 20th, Thursday. — One hundred and thirtieth
day. Bright and sunny, but very cold. Lee and Kaack
done up.

October 21st, Friday. — One hundred and thirty-
first day. Kaack was found dead about midnight be-
tween the doctor and myself. Lee died about noon.
Read prayers for sick when we found he was going.

October 22d, Saturday. — One hundred and thirty-
second day. Too weak to carry the bodies of Lee and
Kaack out on the ice. The doctor, Collins, and I car-
ried them around the corner out of sight. Then my
eye closed up.

October 23d, Sunday. — One hundred and thirty-third
day. Everybody pretty weak. Slept or rested all day,

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800 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and then managed to get enough wood in before dark.
Read part of divine service. Suffering in our feet. No
foot gear.

October 2Wi, Monday. — One hundred and thirty-
fourth day. A hard night.

October 26th, Tuesday. — One hundred and thirty-
fifth day.

October 2Qth, Wednesday. — One hundred and thirty-
sixth day.

October 21th, Thursday. — One hundred and thirty-
seventh day. Iversen broken down.

October 28th, Friday. — One hundred and thirty-
eighth day. Iversen died during early morning.

October 29th, Saturday. — One hundred and thirty-
ninth day. Dressier died during night.

October 30th, Sunday. — One hundred and fortieth
day. Boyd and Gcirtz died during night. Mr. Collins
dying.

aiS

Captain De Long's Note-Books and Map.

CHAPTER XIX.

NINDEMANN AND NOROS.

9 October — 2 November, 1881.

Captain De Long's Instructions. — They start on their Forced March
to the Southward. — They shoot a Ptarmigan and miss Deer. —
Arctic Willow Tea and Boot-soles. — Camping in the Snow. — Loss
of Alcohol. — A Hut. — Refuge from the Storm. — Struggling
against the Wind. — Crossing Streams. — Another Hut, and a
Burial Place. — Camping in a Crevice. — Reduced to Seal-skin
from Pantaloons. — Making for the Mountains. — Miserable Shel-
ter. — A Deserted Settlement, — A Needed Refuge. — Discovered
by a Native. — Carried to a Camp. — Their Journey Southward. —
Impossibility of Communication. — Ku Mark Surka. — Bulun. —
The Telegraphic Message. — The Appearance of Chief-Engineer
Melville.

The brief record in which Captain De Long recites
the experience of his party after landing upon the coast
is so calm and reserved, that the reader may easily fail
to recognize some of the extreme hardships which were
endured, and the difficulties which assailed the men.
So weak were they after their terrible exposure in the
boat that they could not raise their legs to break
through the young ice when wading to the shore, but
were compelled to push through it as they moved feebly
along. The land moreover on which they landed was
a vast morass, which afforded no sure foothold. When
the weather was mild the surface was spongy and wet ;
when the frost seized the ground, or snow fell, the walk-
51

802 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ing was equally hard. The men slipped at every step,
so that every mile they made was doubled in exertion.

Their track moreover was made in great uncertainty.
No chart had been laid down of this desolate region,
and indeed it would seem impossible to make any which
would not be falsified by the changes which every fresh
season brought. The fullest chart laid down only eight
mouths to the Delta, but two hundred and ten have
been counted by those who traversed the coast in the
searches which followed the fateful voyage of the Jean-
nette. All the low land of the Delta is yearly covered
with ice and water when the rivers break up, and the
whole country is ploughed by the swollen streams of
the Lena as they make their way to the ocean. Thus
the courses of the streams are never the same in two
years, and the countless branches bewilder the traveler.
It was this that caused Captain De Long and his party
to move more and more to the eastward, and become
entangled in the wilderness.

When Captain De Long ordered the two seamen,
Nindemann and Noros, on the morning of Sunday, Oc-
tober 9, to make a forced march to the southward to
Ku Mark Surka for relief, he gave to Nindemann a copy
of the chart by which he was working, and pointed out
the spot, the island of Tit Ary, where he supposed him-
self and his party then to be. He encouraged the men
by showing that there was only one river to be crossed,
and that the village was but twelve miles distant. He
hoped they could reach it in three or four days. In
reality, Tit Ary itself was near the point where the
two seamen fell in with natives a fortnight later, after
traveling nearly a hundred and twenty miles, and Ku
Mark Surka lay thirty-three miles beyond that. The
insufficiency of the chart wbich Captain De Long had,

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 803

the latest accessible at the time of his leaving San
Francisco, will be at once apparent by a comparison of
it with the chart laid down after the Lena Delta had
been traversed by the several parties. It is by this
fuller chart that one learns for the first time how near
was a settlement of natives to the point where the first
cutter landed, a fact upon which Captain De Long's
chart was silent as the grave, and which was unknown
even to the Russian government.

The instructions which Captain De Long gave to
Nindemann were not written. He bade him keep on
the west bank of the river, since he would not find
drift-wood on the east bank, and would not be likely to
fall in there with natives. He cautioned him to avoid
wading, but rather to walk round water when he could.
The two men were lightened of all burdens, were fur-
nished with a rifle, forty rounds of ammunition, and
two ounces of alcohol. When they were ready to start
at seven o'clock, they shook hands with everybody, the
party which remained behind gave them three cheers,
and they set forth on their desperate march.

They moved along the bank of the creek to the
westward until they could find a place where they could
cross. The young ice at the edge could not bear their
weight, and they were forced to find pieces of timber
with which they could make a rude footway to the
stronger ice ; upon the other side the ice at the edge
broke under them, but the water was shallow. About
two hundred yards to the south they came to the larger
stream which they were to follow, and found the river
open, and the ice running in it. They kept along the
bank until about noon, when they saw a ptarmigan
upon what appeared like a heavy piece of drift-wood.
Nindemann fired and shot his tail-feathers out, but the

804 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

bird flew away. The drift-wood turned out to be a
kayak turned bottom up. They broke it out of the
snow, but found nothing under it, and resumed their
journey.

When they halted half an hour later, and gathered
some bits of wood for a fire, eight or ten ptarmigans
appeared within about fifty yards of them. Nindemann
took the rifle and crawled half the distance, when he
had three or four in line. He fired and brought down
one only, which they cooked as well as they could, and
made their dinner off it, but the bird is only about as
large as a pigeon and has but little meat on it.

The river ran past a low bluff, and the two men as
they made their way along the bank sometimes tried
the top of the bank, but were hindered by the deep,
soft snow, and sometimes the edge of the river, where
the walking was better, except where the bank left no
room for passage. About three o'clock they came upon
another stream flowing in from the west, and followed
its northern bank for a mile, until they could come to a
good crossing, when they got upon the other bank and
regained the main stream. An hour later they came
upon a big flat boat shoved up on the beach, but so
broken up that it was unfit for use. It was the grain
raft which Captain De Long noted on the 15th. Here
they took a short rest and then started on again. A
little before dark they saw something to the westward,
which, in the uncertain light, they took to be huts. As
they came nearer, the objects began to move, and they
saw that they were deer. Nindemann went cautiously
toward them until he came within a thousand yards ;
some of the deer were lying down, and some were
browsing. He got clown upon his hands and knees and
crawled within three hundred yards, but the wind was

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 805

from his quarter, and they scented him and began to
run. He fired three or four shots after them but with-
out effect, and they fled westward, while he stood watch-
ing them till they were out of sight.

Back he went to his disappointed companion, and
they started again southward, walking until it was quite
dark. The wind was blowing, and they camped down
on a point of land where a large bay made in to the
westward. It was the confluence of several streams,

9/f^ofZr^™*™^.

and just beyond where, a week later, Captain De Long
and his party made their last camp. The two men col-
lected wood for a fire ; and making a little Arctic wil-
low tea and soaking and burning a boot-sole, they got
what nourishment they could, made bags of their blan-
kets, and crawling near the fire lay down for the night.
Now and then, as the cold penetrated, one or the other
would rouse himself, lay a little more wood on the fire,
and lie down again.

806 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

On the morning of Monday, October 10th, they had a
little willow tea and another boot-sole, and then started
along the bank to the westward, and again to the south-
west. They were aiming to keep a southerly course
on the west bank of the main stream, but they were in
a confused morass, with points of land here and there,
which they tried to reach. The wind was vhigh, and
the drifting snow filled the air, so that sometimes they
could not see fifty yards beyond them. When there
was a lull they would get their bearings, but as they
went from point to point, they were constantly com-
pelled to cross streams, wading through the water to a
sand spit beyond, only to find another stream beyond
that. Thus they struggled on all day, from nine o'clock
till nearly dark, making a course which was sometimes
northwest and sometimes west. The wind was still so
high when they halted for the night, that though they
found drift-wood, they were unable to light and keep a
fire. So, walking till they came to a bank of the river
where there was a deep snowT-drift, they set to work to
scoop out a hole into which they could crawl for shelter.
They had no tools but their sheath-knives, and it was
midnight before their task was done. Then they crawled
in, nearly closed the hole behind them to keep the snow
from drifting in, and rolled themselves in their blankets.
There they lay the night through, but they were wet
to their waists, and had to keep the blood in circulation
by knocking their feet together. One would sleep for
five minutes, and then be waked by the other and bid-
den keep from freezing by knocking his feet together.

When morning came it was with difficulty that they
could extricate themselves from the hole which they
had dug, for the snow had been piled up by the wind
against the opening. Once on their feet again, they

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 807

found better weather and little of the drifting snow.
It was Tuesday, October 11th, and they pushed on
southward until midday, when they kindled a fire, mean-
ing to warm a little of the alcohol' which they carried ;
but Noros, who had carried the bottle in his pocket, put
his hand in to find that the bottle was broken, and the
alcohol gone. They had recourse to the Arctic willow
tea and boot-sole, and took up their march again. To-
Avard evening, as they stood on the river bank, they
sighted something beyond them which looked like a
hut, and after crossing a couple of streams they came
up to it, and hailed it as a refuge after that terrible
thirty-six hours.

They gathered wood for a fire which they made, and
searched the hut, but found nothing save some deer
bones,. which they threw upon the fire and burned and
then made effort to eat along with their willow tea.
They dried their wet clothes before the fire, and at
length lay down and slept. They were under shelter,
and when they looked out the next morning, it was
blowing a gale from the southwest, and nothing could
be seen but the wild, drifting snow. All day, therefore,
they lay in their refuge, seeking again for nourishment
from the willow tea and the charred bones.

On the morning of Thursday, the 13th, the weather
was clearer, but it was still blowing, and they could
get no certain view of where they were going. They
were apparently on an island between two streams.
The river to the west of them was open to the south-
ward and westward ; that to the southward and east-
ward was open on the south side, with three hills lying
there. They kept along the island through the morn-
ing, sitting down often to rest, for they were facing
the strong wind and it was hard work. It was on this

808 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

day that Captain De Long wrote in his journal : " No
news from Nindemann. We are in the hands of God,
and unless He intervenes 1 are lost. We cannot move
against the wind." Nindemann himself was slowly
passing the point where he was later to help bury his
captain.

In the afternoon they sighted a hut on the west
bank of the river. They had seen one in the morn-
ing, but had in vain attempted to cross the ice to it.
Now they tried to reach this, but were turned back by
the brittle ice. They kept it in sight, as they moved
southward, and made another attempt to cross the ice,
but it broke and they came back. Then they saw that
there was no further progress possible to the south-
ward on that side of the water, and they returned to
the ice. It broke again, but they kept on. They went
in to their waists, but managed to pull themselves up
on the stronger ice. The wind was blowing against
them, and the ice was a glare, so that they were driven
back. They looked about for ice which had been
roughened by the ripples beneath, and finding some
they succeeded at length in reaching the other side,
where were two wooden crosses beneath a bank, which
rose fifty feet above them.

They pulled themselves up the bank, but when they
came to the hut which they had kept in sight, they
found it a ruin nearly full of snow. While Noros was
trying to make a place in it for shelter Nindemann
saw a black object farther along to the south and
went to it. It was a small peaked hut without a door,

1 By an error this word in some copies of Captain De Long's journal has
been made relents. Not so did Captain De Long read the Divine mind.
To him God was no vindictive, stern tyrant. The records sufficiently wit-
ness to his devout, unswerving confidence in a watchful Father.

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 809

but large enough to hold the two men. There were
some fresh wood shavings outside the hut, and higher
up on the hill two boxes. On going to them Nincle-
mann found them old and decayed, and he began to
break one of them open. When he had ripped off the
top he discovered that there was another box inclosed ;
breaking into it he found a dead body, and hastily left
it. Doubtless the two crosses below on the river bank
were memorials of the two beings left high up above
the reach of the floods.

Nindemann went back to Noros, and told him what
he had seen, and that they would find shelter in the
little hut. So they began to gather wood for their fire,
and Nindemann came upon five or six pieces of timber
lying close together frozen to the ground. He got a
stick, pried them loose, and left them for use in the
fire, as they were near to the hut, and went off for
more drift-wood. Noros, meanwhile coming up, began
to move the timbers, when he found that they covered
a hole in which lay a box, half filled with the earth
which had fallen into it. Upon dragging it out, he dis-
covered in it a couple of fish and one or two fish heads.
He made known his prize, and Nindemann coming for-
ward seized upon a lemming, which at that moment
came out of his hole. They went to the hut and made
a fire. Their supper was some willow tea, the lem-
ming and the fish. They could not dress the lemming,
but made a spit of their ramrod and roasted the little
animal which they divided between them. The fish
were decayed and dropped apart as they handled them,
but they found a couple of flat stones and so cooked
the fish on these before the fire. Supper over, they
closed the opening of the hut with a couple of boards,
and lay down by the fire to dry their clothes and sleep
till morning-.

810 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

When morning came it was still blowing hard from
the southward, and though they made a start, they
found it impossible to make any headway, nor could
they see their way through the driving snow, so they
turned back to the little hut and stayed there an-
other twenty-four hours, eating what scraps they could
gather, and carefully husbanding the little wood which
remained to them.

When they looked out Saturday morning, the 15th,
the wind was still blowing from the southeast, but the
snow had stopped drifting. They made a start along
the river bank to the southward and eastward, looking
for the main river. They crossed an island and saw
signs of natives having been there, and coming upon
the river again they struggled over the ice, facing the
wind, which was now rising and increasing in strength.
About five o'clock in the afternoon they discovered an
opening in the river bank, and since the moving was
now very hard they thought to make a halt there, but
the wind drew through the crack and so they kept on
by the bank, hoping for better shelter. They found
nothing and had finally to turn back and put up with
this fissure. It was a kind of cave extending into the
bank, and having another opening at the top. They
gathered wood enough to last for the night. One
would get into the crack while the other passed in the
wood to him.

They found some Arctic willow, but they had noth-
ing to eat, and so Nindemann, who wore a pair of seal-
skin pantaloons, cut off a piece, which they soaked in
water and then burned to a crust. From this they
made out their supper, but though they had a good
fire they shivered with the draught which the wind
made through the funnel-shaped cave. They tried to

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 811

cover the opening with one of their blankets, but it
was not long enough. There was not room for both
below the fire, so they took turns, one crawling up
above and lying upon his face to avoid the smoke, but
this was so penetrating that it was impossible for him
to stay, and he would shift with his companion. There
was little sleep to be had, and little warmth, and they
watched for the morning. Possibly it was the smoke
from this fire which Captain De Long descried as he
lay in his camp to the north.

A little before daylight on Sunday morning, the
16th, the wind moderated, and the snow was drifting
less. They were impatient to get away from their
miserable shelter, and taking a little more willow tea
and seal-skin they started on their march to the south-
ward and eastward in search of the main river, which
they believed to flow by the high land which they
could see in that direction. They crossed the stream
by which they were, and got upon some sand spits
where were heavy hummocks of ice. The wind had
increased again. They tried to rest in the lee of the
hummocks, but the wind was searching and struck
through their imperfect clothing, so they struggled on
until they reached a large sand bank and saw that
the high hills toward which they had been aiming ap-
peared to be about three miles distant. They could
see no river, however, and began to fear they must
have crossed, the main stream. But they resolved to
push on to the foot of the hills, and then if they failed
to find the river to turn back and take a westward
course.

Following the sand spit on which they had halted
they soon came to the river. Their orders had been
to keep on the west bank, but there seemed to be noth-

812 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

ing but sand spits about them, with no chance of game.
Moreover they had just seen a crow flying overhead,
across the river and in among the hills. The crow, in
the Arctic regions, keeps among human beings, and
this decided Nindemann to cross the river in hopes of
reaching; some natives on the other side, or some game.
They had to move with caution, for there were large
open places in the ice. When part way across Noros
complained of illness. He had been spitting blood
twice. Nindemann, who could move more quickly,
bade him follow, while he kept on to the foot of the
hills. When he reached the edge of the river there
was nothing to be seen. The hills thrust themselves
into the river so that they had to take to the ice ; and
so, sometimes on the shore, sometimes on the river,
they kept on their way, but could see no signs either
of game or of natives.

At length at dark they came to a ravine in the hills,
where they gathered some drift-wood for a fire, and
finding no Arctic willow they were driven to taking a
little hot water and eating again of the seal-skin. They
could discover no shelter, and so they dug a hole in
the snow, piled up some blocks of snow to keep off the
wind as well as they could, and crawled into their
blanket bags. They could not sleep, and would gladly
have risen and pushed on, but the night was too dark
for them to see their way.

At dawn of Monday, the 17th, they started down
the ravine again and followed the river bank to the
south, making but slow progress, so rough was the
walking. They halted in the middle of the forenoon,
made a fire and boiled some water which they took
with their seal-skin ; they stayed there an hour, trying
to mend in a fashion the soles of their boots, which

NINDEMANX AND NOROS. 813

were badly worn. When they had gone a mile further
they abandoned the east bank and recrossed the river.
The wind was now blowing and the snow was driving,
but for the rest of the day they struggled onward until
they came to some hillocks, which appeared to be piles
of snow and sand. They tried to dig into them for
shelter, but found hard ice below. Again moving on
they came to some drift-wood, where they hoped to
find a piece large enough to afford some shelter, but in
vain. They kept crossing streams and sand spits, and
it was midnight before they finally struck a solid river
bank. There was drift-wood there for a fire, but the
wind was too high to suffer them to light it, and so
they had recourse to their expedient of the former
night, and dug a hole in the snow, sheltering them-
selves as best they could by a barrier of snow-blocks.

It was too cold to sleep, and they started again at
daybreak, Tuesday, the 18th, along the river bank to
the southward. They were now on the west bank of
the main stream, but found it easier at times to move
on the ice-bed of the river. Now and then they would
climb the bank above them to see what lay before them,
but the moss and snow there were so deep that they
sank to their knees at every step. They halted at ten,
when they made a fire, partook of willow tea and seal-
skin, but at six o'clock, when they had climbed the bank,
they saw a hut about a mile inland. They walked to
it and found it a peaked hut, without a door, and al-
most snowed over. A hundred yards farther on they
saw a pile of something which proved to be sleds.
There was no drift-wood near by, so they broke up
the sleds and used them for fire-wood. They dug out
enough snow from the hut to give them sleeping room,
and after staying themselves with willow tea and seal-

814 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

skin, they lay down for the night. They were weak,
but they were within shelter. They had had no real
shelter and no sleep since Friday night, and thus from
sheer exhaustion and with this slight comfort they slept
all night.

When they woke on the morning of Wednesday, the
19th, it was broad daylight. They made themselves

some tea, and started southward, weak and stumbling.
Till three o'clock in the afternoon they struggled on.
They came then to a high cliff, where they saw an owl
flying. They watched, hoping the owl would rest and
they could bring her down, but she kept flying in a
circle, and finally flew over the cliff beyond their hope.
They were so exhausted now that they could scarcely
move for more than five minutes at a time. They
began to regret the hut they had left behind them.
There at least they would have had shelter. About

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 815

four o'clock, as they stumbled on, they came to a small
river running across their line of travel. They reached
the other bank when Noros looking back discovered
three huts on the bank they had left. It was the place
set down on later maps as Bulcour. They recrossed the
stream, and on making their way to the huts found in
one of them a kayak with some fish-nets and other arti-
cles. Near by was a half kayak with something in it.
Noros tasted it. It was like sawdust. Nindemann also
tasted it. It was blue molded and tasteless to them,
but it was fish, and they took it with them to the other
huts. They found nothing more, and after gathering
some drift-wood they made a fire and tried to find
some food in the moldy fish.

They slept by the fire they had made, and Thursday
they gathered a little wood. They knew how weak
they were when they were gathering it, though when
they sat by the fire they thought themselves strong
enough to move on. But they stayed by the hut all
day. Dysentery had attacked them and their strength
seemed failing.

When Friday, the 21st, came, they thought they
would make a start, but were so weak that they put off
the attempt till the morrow, and spent the day in a
careful husbanding of their resources. They measured
in their tin cups the fish that was left, and found that
by taking each two cupfuls a day they had enough for
ten days. Nothing else remained to them but a skull-
cap apiece, and a pair of foot-nips. These they pro-
ceeded to fill with fish and sew up, and then rigged
them with straps for carrying.

On the morning of Saturday, the 22d, Nindemann
was ready to make a fresh start, but Noros said, u We
are pretty weak yet, and as the weather is cold we had

816 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

better rest another day ; " and Nindemann, in his narra-
tive adds, " By this time our dysentery was so bad that
it was almost impossible for us to start, and I think
that if we had started, we should have frozen by the
way." So they kept in the hut and worked at their
boots, which were falling to pieces.

At noon, as they were seated by the fire, trying to
get a meal ready, they heard a noise outside like a Hock
of geese sweeping by. Nindemann looked through the
crack of the door, and saw something moving which he
took to be a reindeer. He took the rifle down, loaded
it, and was moving forward, when the door opened,
and a man stood at the entrance. Seeing Nindemann
advancing toward him with his rifle, he fell on his
knees, throwing up his hands, and began to suppli-
cate him. Nindemann threw the rifle into the corner
and beckoned eagerly to the man to come in. At first
the man was fearful, but finally came in, and the two
men, wishing to show that they were friends, offered
him some of the fish they were cooking. The man
shook his head and made signs that it was not fit to
eat. He had come in a sleigh with reindeer, and the
men went out to see what he had. He had noth-
ing in his sleigh to eat, but Nindemann picked up a
large deer-skin coat and brought it with him into the
hut, and by signs offered to give the man in exchange
his flannel shirt, but he shook his head. Nindemann
showed him his boots, and the man went out to his
sleigh and brought back a pair of deer-skin boots.

The two men now tried their best by signs, but in
vain, to make the man understand the critical condi-
tion of the captain and their shipmates ; he only made
signs in return that he must go and that he needed his
coat, for it was very cold. He brought in a deer-skin.

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 817

however, which he gave them, and then held up three
or four fingers to tell them apparently that in three or
four hours or three or four days, they knew not which,
he would return. He took the shirt which Nindemann
had offered him, drove off along the river to the west-
ward, and was soon out of sight.

Nindemann and Noros looked at each other, when
he had disappeared, and began to question if they had
done wisely in letting him go off. Nindemann feared
he had scared him with his rifle, and that he would
not come back, but Noros was confident that he was a
good Christian and would return. Nindemann finally
said that they would wait four days for his return, and
then, if he did not appear, they would keep on to the
southward. They were too weak to think of a march
now. They were too weak indeed to go down the
river bank after drift-wood, and so they collected the
sleds which they found, the berths in the huts, and any
loose wood, and dragged these to their fire.

About six o'clock in the evening, as the}- were boil-
ing some of their moldy fish, they heard a noise with-
out, the door opened, and their visitor, with two other
men, came into the hut. After a vain attempt at mak-
ing each other understand anything, one of the men
went out, brought in a frozen fish which he skinned
and sliced; while the sailors were eating it — the first
real food which they had touched for many a day —
the natives made signs for them to go with them.
They brought in some deer-skin coats and boots for
them, gathered what was in the hut, and then put-
ting the men into reindeer sleighs drove off with them
along the river to the westward. The way led into
the mountains, and they kept on their drive for about
fifteen miles, when they came to a ravine where were

818 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

a couple of deer-skin tents, and fires could be seen
burning.

The natives took Nindemann into one tent and Noros
into the other, and gave them some boiled venison.
There were seven men and three women in the party.
One of the women seeing the forlorn condition in
which Nindemann was offered him water to wash. He
washed his hands, but they were so bent and sharp
that they were more like claws than hands, and he
found himself unable to wash his face, so that the
woman took pity on him and washed it for him. The
people gave the sailors more venison and fish, and they
in their turn tried to tell their story and their errand.
At first the people seemed to attend, but presently they
were curious to know what the sailors had about them,
and if they had any money. Nindemann tried to make
them understand that they had plenty of money in the
ship, that the ship had gone down, but that if the men
would help them, they should have plenty. It was im-
possible to say how far they were understood.

It was late in the night before the people in the tents
disposed themselves for sleep, and in the morning when
Nindemann awoke it was daylight, and breakfast was
prepared. Again he tried to make them understand
his wishes, but in vain ; and after breakfast, while the
rest were out catching the reindeer, he found the man
who seemed to be the head of the party, and drew in
the snow a chart of the places where he had been,
making signs all the time, sometimes thinking he was
understood and then in despair. There were over a
hundred head of deer which the natives harnessed to
twenty-seven sleighs loaded with reindeer meat, rein-
deer skins, and fish, and when all was ready, they broke
camp, and drove over the mountains to the southward.

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 819

At noon when they stopped to rest the deer, the man
with whom Nindemann had talked led him to a point
from which they could descry a prominent landmark in
the Lena Delta, which he and Noros had had in sight
a long while on their march. The man asked by signs
if that was wThere they had left their people. Ninde-
mann explained as well as he could that Captain De
Long and his party were fifteen or twenty miles prob-
ably to the northward of the point. He watched the
man anxiously to see what he would do, but he only
shook his head as if sorry, and went back with Ninde-
mann to the sleighs. They kept on their journey to
the south, camping again at night.

Another day was spent in the same way. Occasion-
ally when climbing a hillside, all the people would get
out to lighten the load, but Nindemann and Noros were
still so weak that they lagged far behind the rest, who
were obliged to wait for them. About five o'clock they
came to a collection of huts, the Ku Mark Surka, which
had been the point which Captain De Long had hoped
they would make in three or four days. Here were a
number of natives looking out for the return of the
party, and the two sailors were the object of great curi-
osity. The people crowded about them, talked to them,
talked about them, and Nindemann in vain tried to make
himself understood. The huts were full of people feast-
ing, and it was soon difficult to get their attention.

" On the morning of the 25th," says Nindemann,
" after breakfast, I started again talking to the people
through signs and pantomime ; it seemed as if one of
them had got some idea of where we came from, or
what we wanted, and he talked to one of the boys, and
the boy went out, and after awhile came back with a
model of a Yakutsk boat, and then they all got round

820 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

me and wanted to know, as near as I could make out,
whether our ship was something like it. I then went
to work and got some sticks and placed them in the
boat, showing them that our ship had three masts, and
then got more sticks, showing them that she had yards.
This seemed to surprise them very much. I then made
a smoke-stack out of wood, and pointed to the fire and
'smoke, and then showed them the place astern where
the rudder was, and had a small roll which I turned to
make them understand that our ship was a steamer. I
then made models of the boats, and showed them how
many boats the ship held. Then I told one of the men
to get me a couple of pieces of ice. He went out and
got me a couple of pieces of ice, and I showed them
how the ice had crushed our ship. I then pointed to
the northward, as much as to say, the ice crushed our
ship away to the northward, and that we saved three
boats, putting in each little boat so many sticks, to rep-
resent how many men there were in each boat. At the
time there was a clog in the room. A man pointed tc
the clog and wanted to know whether we had any dogs.
I counted on my fingers that we had about forty, and
made them understand that we had shot the most of
them, and left some of them behind on the ice. I then
showed them a chart of the ocean and the coast line,
showing that we had a gale of wind, and that our boat
went in here, and that we did not know what had be-
come of the other two. I then showed them on the
chart where we had landed, and made the boat on the
chart a little way oft: land, and then I showed them by
pencil-marks that everybody had left the boat and
waded ashore. Then showed them the way we walked
along the river bank, and I marked the huts where we
stopped. Here we came to the place where Ericksen

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 821

had died. I showed them through signs that he had
died, and that we buried him in the river. Everybody
shook his head, as much as to say they felt sorry for it.
I then made them understand that we had left the cap-
tain a couple of days after that, and by putting my
head down and closing my eyes, to show them how
many days it had been that we had left him. This
seemed to affect them pretty well, but it seemed to me
as if they would not give me any assistance. Some-
times it seemed to me as if they understood everything
that I wanted. Then all at once it seemed that they
did not understand a word. I kept talking with those
people till it must have been somewhere near twelve
o'clock, but they did not show any signs by this time
of any intention to give me assistance, or to do any-
thing for me."

Another day was spent in an incessant but fruitless
attempt to make themselves understood, and on Thurs-
day morning, October 27th, Nindemann sitting alone
on his berth and thinking of everything, of their ter-
rible march, of their helpless companions, and of the
hopelessness of carrying any aid to them, could contain
himself no longer, and broke into sobs and groans. A
woman in the hut took pity on him, and began talking
earnestly to one of the men, who came to Nindemann
and said something about a commandant. By this time
Nindemann had picked up a few w^ords, and he begged
the man to take them on to Bulun, for he was in despair
of doing anything in this place. The man in reply
again said something about the commandant, and held
up five or six fingers. Then he made Nindemann un-
derstand that he would take him to Bulun on the mor-
row.

The day passed by, and late in the evening a native

822 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXXETTE.

came in and told Nindemann that the commandant was
coming. He was followed at once by a tall Russian
whom Nindemann took to be the commandant, and
eagerly accosted in English. The Russian, an exile by
the name of Kusmah, could not understand him ; but
he evidently knew something of affairs, for he uttered
two words, Jeannette, Americansk. Nindemann sud-
denly thought he might be some Russian officer who
had had orders from his government to look out for
them. He tried him in German, but the Russian shook
his head. He took out the little chart which the cap-
tain had given him, and pointed out the places, but the
Russian seemed to have no conception of what the
chart was. Then the Russian said something, but all
that Nindemann could catch was, " St. Petersburg," and
"telegrams." If it was necessary to wait for a dispatch
to St. Petersburg, Nindemann thought in despair, all
was over, for it would be impossible to reach the cap-
tain in time.

While this confused exchange of words was going
on, Noros was in the hut writing out a note which the
two men had composed,, and the Russian picked up the
paper and put it in his pocket. They asked him for it,
but he refused to give it back, and about midnight took
his leave. He came back in the morning and rave
them to understand that he was going to Bulun, and
that they were to follow shortly. The people with
whom they were had furnished them with deer-skin
clothing and boots, and when preparations were made
to send them on their way, the woman of the hut
where Nindemann had stayed gave him some smoked
fish to eat on the road.

The two sailors were now in charge of a man with
reindeer who was to take them to Bulun. They spent

NINDEMANN AND NOROS. 823

one night in a lint on the road with natives, and after
twice crossing the river, continued to the southward,
and reached Bulim about six o'clock in the evening of
October 29th. Here they were housed and given some
tea, and then a native came and signed to them to fol-
low him to the commandant. They expected to see
the Russian with whom they had held their interview
at Ku Mark Surka, but found another man in his place,
who said that he was the commandant. Nindemann
shook his head and otherwise expressed his doubt,
whereupon the commandant, to convince him, showed
him his uniform and sword. Nindemann now attacked
this man also with signs and pantomimes to explain the
state of affairs. He counted off on his fingers the num-
ber of people whom he had left to the northward, the
captain and ten others. The commandant nodded as-
sent, and seemed to understand, and Nindemann went
on explaining. This man also spoke of telegraphing,
and Nindemann, making signs for pen, ink, and paper,
dictated to Noros a dispatch to the American minister
at St. Petersburg.

The commandant said that he would take the paper
on the morrow to the " captain," by which the men un-
derstood him to mean that he would take it to his su-
perior officer at the telegraph station, but they did not
know what telegraph station there might be in the
neighborhood. They stayed that night with the com-
mandant, and the next morninsf, and toward noon the
commandant packed a box, and repeated that he was
going off with the dispatch to the captain. The assis-
tant-priest of the village had come in, and when the
commandant left, invited Nindemann and Noros to his
house. He kept them to dinner, but could not have
them stay with him, as he was about to be married,

824

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEAXXETTE.

and sent them to the hut where they had been received

when they came the night before.

Both of the men were weak and sick with dysentery.

They were in wretched plight, scantily clothed (for

the natives h a cl
only lent them the
deer-skin cover-
ings), and insuffi-
ciently fed. They
kept in the hut
which had been as-
=^ signed to them, too
miserable to go
away from it, when,
in the evening of
November 2d,
three days after
j^y the commandant
§XN had gone off with
^^J their dispatch, as
Nindemann lay on
the rude bed, and
Noros sat looking
towards the open
door, a man came
in dressed in fur.
Nindemann h a d
turned to look at
him, b u t turned
^^%W /{/?.>' ) back upon his bed,

Fac-Simile of Capt. De Long's Map. wlldl the Uiail Came

forward to Noros, who was sitting upon the table, and
spoke to him.

" My God, Mr. Melville ! " said Noros, " are you alive ?
We thought that the whaleboat's were all dead ! "

NINDEMAJSft AXD NOROS.

825

Then it appeared that Kusmah had brought to Mr.
Melville the note which the two seamen had written, —

for it was he of whom he had spoken by the name of
captain, — and Mr. Melville had at once set out to

826 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Bulun to find them. They told their story, and showed
how they were now famishing, upon the meagre fish
diet, which was all they could get. Mr. Melville, who
could make himself understood in Russian, sent for the
priest, and demanded that the two sailors should have
the best which the place afforded. To them, however,
the best was that they were once more in the hands
of their countrymen, and under the direction of their
old officer.

• In

x '^ --•■

Native huts and fish houses, Lena Delta.

CHAPTER XX.

THE FORTUNES OF THE WHALEBOAT PAETY.

12 September — 2 November, 1881.

The Separation in the Gale. — Heaving to. — The Storm. — Standing
in toward the Coast. — The Mouth of a Broad River. — A Landing.
— Up the River. — Discovery of Natives. — Cape Borkhia. — Pi-
loted by the Starosti. — Arrhu. — Geeomovialocke. — Attempts to
reach Bulun. — Condition of the Men. — Dispatches. — Kusmali. —
Kusmah sets out for Bulun. — Lieutenant Danenhower attempts
to reach Barkin. — Anxiety at Kusmah's Delay. — Return of
Kusmah. — Intelligence of Nindemann and Noros. — Mr. Melville
sets out for Bulun.

When the three boats separated in the gale of Sep-
tember 12th off the Siberian coast, Lieutenant Chipp
was in command of the second cutter, and the three
boats were under close-reefed sail, driving before a
northeast gale. Chief -Engineer Melville was in com-
mand of the whaleboat. Lieutenant Danenhower, on
the sick list, was with him, and R. L. Newcomb, the
naturalist. The seamen Cole, Leach, Wilson, the fire-
men Bartlett and Lauterbach, the Chinese steward and
the Indian Aneguin completed the number.

At seven in the evening the whaleboat was a little
ahead of, and on the weather bow of the first cutter,
about five hundred yards distant, when Captain De
Long made a signal to Mr. Melville. In order to bring
the whaleboat nearer Mr. Melville partially lowered his
sail and gathered in the foot of it, hoping to drift
toward the first cutter, but in slackening the speed the

828 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

seas began to come over the stern, and though the men
pumped and bailed, there was great danger of being
swamped.

Captain De Long perceived the situation and waved
his arm to Mr. Melville with a motion which the latter
interpreted as bidding him run before the wind and
take care of himself, so he hoisted his sail, and in order
to keep ahead of the sea, shook out one reef and hauled
the boat about one or two points toward the southward.
At the same time he saw Captain De Long make a sig-
nal to Lieutenant Chipp in the second cutter, which
was about seven hundred yards distant from the first
cutter and on her weather quarter. Shortly after, the
whaleboat being a fast sailer, and darkness coming on,
Mr. Melville lost all sight of the other two boats, and
navigated the whaleboat without regard to them. He
was uncertain how long he might be at the mercy of
the elements, and accordingly reduced the allowance of
pemmican from one and a half pounds to three quarters
of a pound for each person, a clay. The snow which
they had brought from the island for quenching their
thirst was rendered useless by the deluge of salt water
which dissolved it.

The sea was running so high that it became necessary
to heave the boat to, and a drag was made of three
tent poles and a piece of canvas, giving about six-
square feet of surface. In this manner they rode out
the gale from nine o'clock of the evening of September
12th to five o'clock the next afternoon. Before leav-
ing Semenovski Island a weather-cloth had been con-
trived from the canvas boat-cover. It had been cut
from the stern nearly as far as the mast, and tacked
around the rail ; the canvas had been peaked up by
means of a mast coat, so as to shed the water off the

THE FORTUNES OF THE WHALEBOAT PARTY. 829

bows ; a piece of canvas also had been sewed across to
make a thwart-ship bulkhead ; the canvas was tacked
along the sides and raised on wooden stanchions ; it
was supported by the shoulders and backs of the men,
thus making a cockpit and half-decked boat. The men
crouched down to avoid the force of the gale and were
constantly at work bailing the boat.

The storm was still raging when daylight broke on
the morning of the 13th, and though the sun showed
itself a little after noon, it was not until five in the
afternoon that the storm had so far abated as to make
it safe to get under way again. The wind and the sea
had then subsided somewhat, and all night they ran to
the west and southwest.

On the morning of the 14th the boat grounded in
two feet of water, with no land in sight, and they stood
to the eastward, hoping to get off: the shoal and to feel
their way southward ; the point which they aimed to
make, in accordance with the instruction of Captain
De Long, wras Barkin. There were light airs from the
south southeast all day, but toward evening the weather
looked more threatening, and, fearing to be caught in
the shoals in bad wreather, they stood to the eastward,
and at midnight were in ten fathoms of water. Then
the course was laid southeast, and at six o'clock on the
morning of the 15th they stood to the southwest, hoping
to strike the north and south coast of the Delta.

It was not until the morning of the 16th that they
raised land, two low headlands forming the mouth of a
large river. The water was muddy and brackish, but
as the men had had no water to drink for four days
they eagerly partook of this ; as they slowly ascended
the river the water became sweeter. The river mouth
was a very wide one, the headlands being barely discern-

83 0 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

ible, and the water was discharged with considerable
force. The wind, however, was from the eastward, and
they worked on up the river, grounding occasionally on
the shoals, for the channel was very tortuous. They
tried to effect a landing but found it impossible, since
the channel did not pass near the land, and the shoals
constantly interrupted the boat's course. It was quite
clear that they wrere to the south of Barkin, which
point they had been ordered to make, but it seemed
unwise to put out again to sea with all the chances of
encountering another gale in their crippled condition,
and they kept on up the river.

About seven o'clock in the evening they sighted a
hut on a bank about ten feet above the water, and
succeeded in making a landing near it. They hauled
the boat up, got their gear out, and built a fire in the
hut, which showed signs of having recently been occu-
pied. When they got out of the boat, they were, for
the most part, scarcely able to walk, so swollen and
cramped were their legs and feet. They had been in
the icy waters of the river, and the exposure had inten-
sified the frostiness in their limbs, so that the fire at
night caused terrible pain ; nobody slept, and in the
morning they were in a worse condition apparently
than they were the previous night.

After shoving off in the morning and working up
the river all day long they made an excellent day's
work, finally coming to a branch of the river running
nearly north and south. This they took to be the Lena
proper, and after turning to the southward they camped
on a low point of land in the mud. They called this
the " Mud Camp." Three persons slept in a hut on
the high ground.

On the 19th they took to the boat again, and, after

THE FORTUNES OF THE WHALEBOAT PARTY. 831

following the river, came into what appeared to be a
large bay. The channel was very tortuous, sand spits
were continually interrupting their course, but at
length, shortly after noon, they effected a landing near
a collection of huts. They had taken their dinner and
were pulling off to get nearer the huts, when they
espied three natives approaching them in their canoes.
They beckoned to the natives to come close, and, after
some hesitation, one of the canoes came alongside the
whaleboat, when it was seized by one of the sailors. A
little alarm followed, but by various signs Mr. Melville
made the natives understand that they were friendly,
and followed them to their landing-place. Here they
feasted upon venison and goose and fish, and by an
interchange of civilities soon became on excellent terms
with the three natives. Mr. Melville tried by panto-
mime and drawing to persuade the natives to pilot them
to Bulun, and the natives in turn, making out his wish,
used very expressive pantomime to reply that it would
be sure death to them to attempt it.

The place proved to be Cape Borkhia, and was a
fishing camp of the natives. They stayed there all
night and tried again, but in vain, to induce one of the
natives to conduct them to Bulun. Then they pushed
off again, but after a day and night of great discomfort
on the river, a gale coming on, they were forced to re-
turn to the huts they had left, and reached Cape
Borkhia in the evening. They found then that the
Starosti, or head man of the village, had been sent for,
and, on his arrival, Mr. Melville succeeded in persuading
him to pilot the party to Bulun, which they made out
from him to be six days distant.

They started on their journey the next day, Septem-
ber 22d, and on the 25th had reached a collection of

832 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

huts called Arrhu, where were about a dozen men,
women, and children. Here the Starosti of Borkhia
gave out, and secured the services of three young men
of Arrhu to take them to the next point, the village of
Geeomovialocke, where they arrived on the evening
of the 26th. The condition of the men in the whale-
boat at this time was very trying. They were badly
frozen and otherwise incapacitated ; but two or three,
or at the most four, were able to do any work, but the
men and women of the village helped discharge the boat,
and the Starosti gave them the use of his house. The
village was the first place which could be so called,
which they had reached. It was upon an island in the
river, and the natives assured Mr. Melville that it was
a journey of sixteen days to Bulun. He insisted upon
being taken there, and as his supply of provisions was
now exhausted, he was compelled to depend upon the
stores of the natives and upon such small game as they
might fall in with.

They made an attempt to get away the next day,
the purpose of the natives being to skirt Cape Borkhia
and Cape Ordono, and to make their way into the Lena
River proper upon which Bulun was situated ; but after
struggling wTith the ice and beating against a rising
wind, they were compelled to return to the village and
haul the boat up. The ice began to close in about the
island, and the natives assured them that there was no
way of escape until the wind should blow the ice out of
the bay, or until the bay should be so completely frozen
over as to permit them to cross it on the ice.

They were given a single hut, and furnished with
provisions by the natives, but the addition of the party
to the village at a time when it was very difficult
to increase the stock of provisions made the situa-

THE FORTUNES OF THE WHALEBOAT PARTY. 833

tion a serious one, and the villagers put the strangers
upon an allowance. Moreover, the diet to which they
were forced, and the lack of any anti-scorbutic, might
lead to an outbreak of scurvy, as the party was in a
most crippled condition. " At this time," says Mr.
Melville, k- an exile had been put to live with us, mak-
ing twelve men in our hut. We had had no bread for
about forty days ; we had no anti-scorbutics of any
kind, no salt to use with our food, and the geese which
we were supplied with were in a very bad state of de-
cay, so much so that when we would hang them up
their intestines would drop out. I told the men that
they must be as cheerful as they could ; make a point
of burning plenty of wood ; keep themselves as warm
as they could ; any way get plenty of wood so as to ex-
ercise all hands. I was very anxious at this time, owing
to our short supply of provisions, and the kind we were
living on, fearing that the decayed geese would cause
typhoid fever, from the fact that we had no anti-scor-
bntics ; in case we stayed there, I felt there was great
probability of the whole party dying of scurvy."

They had amongst them prepared documents for
transmission to the nearest authority. Mr. Melville
prepared a telegram to the Secretary of the Navy and
to the American Minister at St. Petersburg ; letters
were also written in English, French, German, and
Swedish ; pictures of the ship in the ice, and of the
American flag, and some postage stamps were added,
and all the papers sewed in an oilskin bag and com-
mitted to the Starosti of the village, who undertook to
send them forward.

One by one the men began to improve in their con-
dition, and Mr. Melville was exceedingly anxious to get
the party moved to Bulun, and about the 10th of Oc-
53

834 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

tober there came to the village a Russian exile, who
seemed more intelligent than the men about them, and
was living across the bay on the mainland. This man
was the Kusmah who later fell in with Nindemann and
Noros. He represented that the ice in the bay was in
such a condition that it would be impracticable for
them to cross at this time, but promised on leaving to
return in a few clays and then go to Bulun for them
and secure the assistance of the commandant of that
post.

Kusmah was as good as his word, and on October
14th came again to Mr. Melville and expressed his
readiness to go to Bulun, and to bring reindeer teams
for the transportation of the party, as well as food and
clothing, of all of which they stood very much in need.
He told Mr. Melville that he would go and return in
five days, and Mr. Melville promised to pay him, if he
fulfilled his contract, the sum of five hundred roubles,
and give him the whaleboat. He required also that
he should start at once. He did not go7 however, un-
til the 16th, for it appeared afterward that as a crimi-
nal exile he could not go without the company of the
Starosti of the village. However, he went at last, and
they all impatiently awaited his return.

Meanwhile, in their intercourse with the Russians
and the natives, the}' were slowly acquiring greater
facilities of speech, and they learned that Barkin was
only forty or fifty versts, or twenty-seven to thirty-
four miles to the northeast of where they then were,
and Lieutenant Danenhower made an attempt to reach
the place in order to learn something, if possible, of
the other boats. Owing, however, to the faithlessness
or lack of intelligence of the natives, and to the diffi-
culty of travel, whether by land or by water, he was

THE FORTUNES OF THE WHALEBOAT PARTY. 835

obliged to return to Geeomovialocke without accom-
plishing his errand.

As the five days of Kusmah's proposed absence were
lengthened to as many more, Mr. Melville began to
grow exceedingly anxious, and to cast about for means
of getting away without waiting for Kusmah. He pro-
posed to take sleds, load them with provisions, and
while some of the party, who could, walked, to carry
the remainder on the sleds. The great difficulty which
presented itself was the necessity for a guide, and they
were also insufficiently provided with clothing for a
journey which promised great exposure. No guide
could be had, for there appeared to be no one, save
Kusmah and the Starosti, who were competent to pilot
them.

At length on the evening of October 29th Kusmah
returned, bringing with him some supplies, letters from
the commandant and priest at Bulim, and the short
note from Nindemann and Noros, which Kusmah had
pocketed when he met these men at Ku Mark Surka.
It may here be remarked that the sailors when talk-
ing by signs with Kusmah had been perplexed by the
alternate intelligence and ignorance of the Russian.
They did not know that Kusmah had come from Mr.
Melville, and Kusmah in talking with them, if talking
it could be called, had the whaleboat party in his
mind, when Nindemann and Noros had Captain De
Long and his party in their minds.

Kusmah explained to Mr. Melville that his prolonged
absence had been caused by unexpected difficulties in
the journey, and that the commandant was to leave
Bulun at once with the necessary teams and supplies.
But Mr. Melville, as soon as he had received this intel-
ligence of the whereabouts of Nindemann and Noros,

836 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and that the captain and his party were in need of as-
sistance, lost no time in starting for Bnlun. He left
his party in charge of Lieutenant Danenhower with in-
structions to proceed to Bulun as soon as transporta-
tion could be had, and started by dog-team, in company
with a native, to go on in advance, hoping to meet the
commandant on the road. They passed each other
without knowing it, and Mr. Melville reached Bulun
the evening of November 2d, where he found Ninde-
mann and Noros as already related.

'^

'

Siberian Exile Huts.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE FIRST SEARCH.

3 — 27 November, 1881.

Bartlett arrives at Bulun with Dispatches from Geeomovialocke. —
Mr. Melville goes North to Buralak. — Meets the Whaleboat Party.

— Sends them South to Bulun and Yakutsk. — Proceeds in the
Track of Nindemann and Noros. — At Bulcour. — The Two
Crosses. — Mat Vai. — Kas Karta. — North Bulun. — Is shown
Records left by Captain De Long. — To Balloch. — Finds the
Cache made when the First Cutter Landed. — Secures the Deposit.

— Returns to North Bulun. — To Osoktok. — To Sister Gauach. —
Loses the Trail. — His Perilous Condition. — Sets out to return to
Bulun. — A Severe Journey- — Rejoins the Party at Bulun. — Pro-
ceeds with them to Yakutsk. — Remains at Yakutsk with Ninde-
mann and Bartlett. — Lieutenant Dauenhower proceeds to Irkutsk.

— Details of Men to assist in Spring Search. — Lieutenant Dan-
en hower returns to America.

The commandant of Bulun, when he went to Geeo-
movialocke, carried with him the long dispatch which
Nindemann and Noros had prepared for the American
Minister at St. Petersburg, and delivered it into the
hands of Lieutenant Danenhower, who at once deter-
mined to send it by J. H. Bartlett, fireman, to Mr. Mel-
ville, and to follow with the rest of the party as soon
as he could persuade or drive the commandant into
starting. The next evening, therefore, after Mr. Mel-
ville had arrived at Bulun, he was met by Bartlett,
bringing the dispatch, and also a letter from the com-
mandant to the Starosti of Bulun, instructing him to

838 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

furnish Mr. Melville with a deer-team down the river
to Burulak, which lay on the road between Bulun and
Geeomovialocke, and advising that he was on the way
with the whaleboat party.

Accordingly, when Mr. Melville reached Burulak on
the evening of November 4th, he waited until the next
day, when the whole party appeared under charge of
the commandant. Mr. Melville now held a consultation
with Lieutenant Danenhower, and announced his inten-
tion of proceeding at once to the north with natives in
search of Captain De Long. He gave Lieutenant Dan-
enhower instructions to proceed with his party to Bulun,
there to add Nindemann and Noros. who were in no
condition at the time to join in any search, but to leave
Bartletf at Bulun for further service. He was then to
conduct the whole party under his charge to Yakutsk,
where he would be in communication with the Russian
government and with the United States Minister. There
he was also to await the arrival of Mr. Melville, who
expected to be absent a month possibly in his search.

Lieutenant Danenhower parted with Mr. Melville,
and at Bulun, finding there was not sufficient trans-
portation for the whole party, decided to leave the
most able-bodied under charge of Bartlett, and to pro-
ceed south with the weakest and most disabled, leaving
the others to act as support to Mr. Melville, and to re-
turn finally with him. He started from Bulun Novem-
ber 12th with Mr. Newcomb, Cole, Leach, Wilson, and
the Chinese steward ; leaving behind him Bartlett,
Nindemann, Noros, Lauterbach, Manson, and Aneguin.
Nindemann was by no means able-bodied at the time, but
he preferred to remain in order to regain his strength,
and it was possible that with the knowledge of the coun-
try and people which he had acquired, he might be of

THE FIRST SEARCH. 839

further use to Mr. Melville in his search. The party
with Mr. Danenhower reached Yakutsk, a distance of
about twelve hundred and fifty miles, December 17th.

When Mr. Melville started north from Bulim in
search of Captain De Long, he had made careful notes
of all the information which Nindemann and Noros
could give him. His intention was to return upon their
course as closely as the somewhat indefinite chart would
allow, and to continue as far as the point where Captain
De Long had landed. He was furnished with two dog
teams, two native drivers, and ten days' supplies of fish
for the men and clogs ; and immediately after confer-
ence with Lieutenant Danenhower at Bnrulak, he set
forth, and before night reached Ku Mark Surka. The
next day he came to Bulcour, the huts where Ninde-
mann and Noros had been found by the natives, but
was obliged to lie by there a day on account of a severe
storm which made further progress perilous. Mr. Mel-
ville had not yet recovered from the effect of the ex-
posure at landing when his feet were frozen, and had
again frozen his feet on the journey from Bulun to
Burulak. He remained, therefore, with his native
party at Bulcour until the morning of November 8th,
when the storm had cleared, and then proceeded on his
way.

His course took him, point by point, over the track
of the two sailors. On the 8th he found the place
where they had burned the sleds for fuel, and pushed
on thence, making about forty miles that day, and
camping at night in the snow. On the 9th he found
the place known as the Two Crosses, where Nindemann
and Noros had slept after their long wandering upon
the river, and that night he camped at Mat Vai, the
name given by the natives to the hut where the sailors

840 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

had spent the night of October 11th, and the whole of
October 12th. Nindemann, in reporting his journey to
Mr. Melville, had forgotten to name this place, and
accordingly Mr. Melville thought for a time that he had
come upon evidences of occupation by some of Captain
De Long's party ; for the sticks used to protect sleep-
ers from the ground had been rearranged so as to make
a bed with the feet toward the fire, a custom different
from what prevailed among the natives of this region.
One of the party also picked up a waist-belt, and Mr.
Melville, on examining the buckle, knew that it had
been made in the fire-room of the Jeannette.

With this perplexing evidence of occupation, he
made up his mind to keep on, following the wTest bank ;
but upon ordering the natives to make ready to move
the next morning, November 10th, they met him with
the statement that provisions were exhausted, and they
must return, for there was nothing either for them or
their dogs. As the commandant had agreed to load
the sleds with ten days' provisions for men and dogs,
and they had only been out five days, Mr. Melville in-
sisted upon going on. He asked how far it was to the
nearest village, and they replied that it was more than
a hundred miles, but they did not want to go on ; they
wanted to go back. There were twenty-two dogs with
them, and Mr. Melville very emphatically told them
that he should go on ; that they would eat the dogs as
long as they lasted, and when the clogs gave out he
should eat them.

His resolution had its effect, and they set out for the
village, which was called North Bulun and close to the
shores of the Arctic Ocean. They passed a number of
huts upon the way and spent one night at a place
called Kas Karta, where the abundance of scraps of

THE LENA DELTA.

SHOWING THE ROUTES TAKEN
AFTER LANDING, AND BY THE
SEARCH PARTIES.

THE FIRST SEARCH. 841

reindeer meat showed very clearly that none of Captain
De Long's party had come this way. The journey was
one of extreme severity, and when they reached North
Bulun, at midnight of the 11th, Mr. Melville was .so
badly frozen that he had to be carried from the sled to
a hut. Here the natives began to swarm about him,
and now for the first time he began to collect evidence
of the party. One man brought him a paper, which
proved to be one of the records left by Captain De
Long on his march, and told him there were other
papers and a gun to be had. These were produced the
next day, which was a very stormy one.

Upon examining the natives Mr. Melville was able
to locate the direction and distance of the huts where
the records had been found, and he at once made prep-
arations to push his search. His team of clogs was
worn out, and he secured a fresh team, and directed
ten days' provisions to be packed on the sleds. The
natives were reluctant to obey his instructions, and
when he had entered the hut again to make ready for
his journey, they managed to unload a portion and re-
turn it to their storehouse. Mr. Melville's feet were in
such a condition that he could not wear moccasins, and
the women in the hut provided him with deerskin muf-
flers for his feet. He set off, however, on the 13th, to
make Balloch, the hut where the first record had been
found, and distant from North Bulun about thirty-three
miles.

He reached the place in the evening and slept there
that night, but found no further record or evidence of
occupation. This was the place where Captain De
Long and his party had slept the night of September
21st. By reference to the chart which he had, it will
be seen that no such place as North Bulun was marked

842 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

upon it, and he could have no knowledge that there
were natives thirty miles or so to the westward. Mr.
Melville, on the morning of the 14th, turned his dogs
to the north and followed the east bank of the river
until he came to the Arctic Ocean. Then he kept along
the shore to the eastward until he came up with the
flagstaff which marked the place where the articles of
the boat had been cached. Upon digging he found the
log books, the chronometer, the navigation box, a lot
of pots and pans and kettles, two fire pots, a number of
old sleeping-bags and old clothing which had been used
to cover the instruments. He loaded his sled with
everything, carrying away much that was worthless, in
order to avoid misleading any one who might go there
afterward on a similar search.

He returned that night to Balloch, and the next day
he proposed going to Osoktok, the second hut at which
records had been found. It lay twenty-five miles or so
to the southward, but there were no provisions either
at Balloch or Osoktok, and he was compelled to return
to North Bulun to make a fresh start. There he se-
lected from the material which he had brought away
from the cache whatever was of value, and gave the
rest to the natives. He procured two good teams of
dogs and a short team of seven dogs, and set out again
on the 17th, as soon as a raging storm would permit
him, for Osoktok. He found nothing there, and pushed
on to the next hut where Captain De Long and his
party had stopped and left a record. In this record
Captain De Long had expressed his intention of cross-
ing the river to the westward, and following down the
west bank to a settlement. Mr. Melville, therefore,
after spending the night at a more habitable hut not
far away, took the same course the next day. He

THE FIRST SEARCH. 843

could distinguish the groove which the sled had cut in
the soft slush a month before. In that wilderness
nothing had passed since to cover the track.

Mr. Melville was in search now of the hut where
Ericksen had died. He was guided only by Ninde-
mann's account, and it was of course a matter of ex-
treme difficulty to determine a locality which was
marked clearly enough in the sailor's mind by the death
of his comrade, but had been only one of the various
stopping places in a fearful march tlnough snow and
over ice. As nearly as Mr. Melville could conjecture,
this hut was anywhere from fifteen to twenty-five
miles to the south of where the party had rested after
crossing the river, and the natives who were with
him guided him to a hut answering to that distance on
the west bank. It was not the place, however, for
which he was looking. They said there was another
on the east bank, a few miles farther south. He went
there also, but it was not the place, for Nindemann
had told him of the epitaph board which they had placed
over the door of the hut.

He kept on to a hut called Sister Ganach, and there
spent the night. It was storming furiously. The snow
was very deep, and it w^as with difficulty that he could
persuade the natives to go on, but at length they suc-
ceeded in moving forward to a hut known as Qu Vina,
In both of these huts there was so much in the way of
remnants of reindeer meat that it seemed very clear that
Captain De Long and his party could not have passed
this way. Itw7as Saturday evening, the 19th of Novem-
ber, that Mr. Melville reached this point, and here he
was forced to stay through the storm until Monday, the
21st, when the weather was comparatively fine. From
this time until he rejoined his people at Buluu we will
give the narrative in his own words : — '

844 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

" I started at three or four o'clock in the morning to
follow the river bank down as far as the hut Mat Vai.
This is where I was doubling on my own track. It
was now thirty or thirty-two days after the time that
Nindemann and Noros had left them there poorly clad,
and I had made up my mind by this time that after
thirty days' starvation they were all probably starved
or frozen to death ; that in the mean time if they had
found the natives, or if the natives had found them,
they were as safe as our party were ; but if they had
not found the natives they would surely be dead. I
then made up my mind to make as quick time as I
could by way of the hut Mat Vai back to Bulun. Now
that the weather was fine, I intended to run by the
hut, as it was but forty versts (twenty-six miles) even
if it stormed. I concluded to stop at Mat Vai as short
a time as possible, as we were out of provisions except
the offal that I had picked up in the huts. After leav-
ing Qu Vina about two hours the natives stopped their
teams and dug up a cache of venison bones that they
had buried the summer before. They added this to
our load, and we sledded along, passing Mat Vai in the
afternoon.

" About seven o'clock in the evening, in entering a
mountain gorge where the river debouched into the
bay, the storm blew from the southward, so that we
were compelled to camp down. It is impossible to
move when it storms and blows, because the dogs can-
not be made to face the wind. They simply lie down
and howl ; and beat them as you may you cannot make
them move. The natives dug a hole in the snow about
six feet square, three or four feet deep, turned the
sleds up to the windward of the hole, and got into their
sleeping bags in the snow bank. The storm continued

THE FIRST SEARCH. 845

to blow during the whole of that night, the next day,
and the next night. It was impossible to move until
the next day morning, when it cleared up a little, but,
in the mean time, we had nothing to eat. It was too
stormy to make a fire to make tea, and the venison
bones which the natives had dug out were full of mag-
gots. We chopped this up in little cubes and swallowed
it whole, which made me so sick after it wanned up in
my stomach that I vomited it all out again.

" About seven o'clock in the morning I got ready to
start the teams to the southward, turning the short
team back again to go home. The short team of dogs
had something like two hundred and fifty versts (about
a hundred and seventy miles) to go northwest, and no
supplies but two dried fish and a quarter of a pound of
tea. I put all the loads from the three sleds on to two
sleds, and started for Bulcour, the nearest place where
I could make a fire. I arrived at Bulcour about eleven
or twelve o'clock at night. It stormed so during this
day, the wind had carried clogs and sleds whither it
would. Owing to the manner in which the sleds were
made, in traveling over the sand banks the runners
were worn away, so that the lashings were constantly
cut and the sleds were continually breaking down. I
set to work repairing the sleds, and the next day
started for the native village known as Ku Mark Surka,
about fifty or fifty-five versts (thirty-three to thirty-six
miles) from Bulcour. On my journey to the northward.
I had traversed this fifty versts in about seven hours,
but on my return it was so stormy and the snow so
deep that it took about fourteen hours. The dogs were
so exhausted from starvation that they could only drag
the sleds along. I was frozen so badly that I could not
walk. The natives were not frozen, but were so tired

846 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

from hauling the sleds, that when they got within eight
versts (five and a half miles) of the village, they pro-
posed not to go any farther, but wait until the next
day and camp in the snow. When the natives stopped,
the dogs howled like wolves, the dogs in the village
hearing the dogs attached to the sleds howling, an-
swered the call, and the dogs made a fresh start and got
in all right that night out of the storm.

" I arrived at Ku Mark Surka on the 24th of Novem-
ber, remained there all night, and the next morning
started the dog teams and arrived at Burulak, where I
remained over night, and the next morning started for
Bulun, a distance of eighty versts (fifty-three miles).
The snow at this time was so deep and the weather so
bad that it required a train of sixteen reindeer to carry
myself and one dog driver and the articles recovered at
the cache ; for these eighty versts the ordinary time is
eight hours, and I had made it before in seven hours.
On this occasion it required fourteen hours to make
it, for I was obliged to stop at a native village called
Ajaket, the natives having lost their way on the river,
and bringing up at this place to warm up. I arrived
at Bulun on the morning of the 27th of November,
having been absent twenty-three days."

Mr. Melville estimated that on this first search he had
traveled about six hundred and sixty-three miles. He
had, without knowing it, passed near to the spot where
the party for whom he was looking lay dead ; but it
was plain that now in the depth of winter, and at a dis-
tance from necessary supplies, it was impossible to make
further search, either for the people of the first cutter,
or for those of the second cutter, about whom no syl-
lable had yet reached him. He determined therefore
to remove the men who had remained behind when

THE FIRST SEARCH. 847

Lieutenant Danenhower went southward, and return in
the spring for a further search. Accordingly he went
forward himself to prepare the way, and was followed
by Bartlett in charge of the whaleboat party, who came
up with him at Verkeransk, the first place of any im-
portance. Here he made provision for the further
transportation of the party to Yakutsk, and also took
advantage of the presence of an English-speaking Rus-
sian to write a full letter to the Espravnik,- or head man
of the district, giving explicit instructions with regard
to the recovery of any of the people, or their remains,
and such effects as might be found.

Mr. Melville finally reached Yakutsk December 30,
1881, and there found himself in communication with
his government, and with the authorities at St. Peters-
burg. Mr. Danenhower with his party had preceded
him about a fortnight, and Bartlett and the rest of the
whaleboat party arrived on the 3d of January, 1882.
It" was clear that nothing would be gained by maintain-
ing a large party for the spring search, as the necessary
supplies for the long journeys were difficult to procure,
and Mr. Melville therefore retained only Nindemann
and Bartlett to assist him in the further search, and
gave the other nine men in charge of Lieutenant Dan-
enhower, with instructions to proceed to Irkutsk, and
thence to the Atlantic seaboard on their way to Amer-
ica. He gave him also the articles, including log-books
and records left in the huts, which he had recovered
from Captain De Long's party.

Lieutenant Danenhower started from Yakutsk Janu-
ary 9, 1882, and reached Irkutsk, a distance of over
nineteen hundred miles, on the 20th of the same month.
One of the men, John Cole, was suffering from mental
aberration, and required a special attendant. Lieuten-

848 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

ant Danenhower himself had not fully recovered the
use of his right eye, but the oculist at Irkutsk advised
him that it would soon be well, and he telegraphed for
permission to remain and hire a steamer with which to
make search for Lieutenant Chipp's party in the spring
and summer ; and that two line officers should be sent
to assist. The entire party with him also volunteered
to remain and assist in the search. The permission to
remain was at first given, but Mr. Danenhower cabled
that his eyes were in very bad condition, the right eye
completely disabled, and the left one affected through
sympathy ; whereupon the order was revoked. He
was detained by the oculist, and while waiting, Mr.
J. P. Jackson, special correspondent of the " NewT York
Herald," arrived at Irkutsk, on his way to the Lena
Delta. By order of the Department, the seaman L.
P. Noros, was detailed to accompany him, and when
Mr. Jackson and Noros left for Yakutsk, March 12th,
Lieutenant Danenhower and the remainder of his
charge set out for St. Petersburg. At Nischnendinsk,
which they reached on the 17th, a telegram came
stating that Lieutenant Giles B. Harber, U. S. N., who
had been sent with Master W. H. Schuetze to search for
Lieutenant Chipp and his party, was on his way, and
they waited here for him. Lieutenant Harber, after
a conference with Lieutenant Danenhower, when the
entire company volunteered to join him in the search,
telegraphed for permission to take with him the five
seamen who were in the best condition, and upon receiv-
ing the assent of the Department, followed in the course
of Mr. Jackson and Noros, with Leach, Manson, Wilson,
Lauterbach, and the Indian Aneguin, while Lieutenant
Danenhower set out for home with Mr. Newcomb, the
seaman John Cole, who required a special attendant,

THE FIRST SEARCH. 849

and the Chinese steward. They reached New York
May 28, 1882.

There were now therefore three parties remaining in
Siberia to conduct the search as soon as the season
would permit : Mr. Melville, with Nindemann and Bart-
lett, whom we left at Yakutsk ; Mr. Jackson with Noros ;
and Lieutenant Harber with his force of five me'n.

Stolbuvoi. Monument Hill.

Melville's Depot of Supplies and Station at Mat Vai, during Spring Search.

CHAPTER XXII.

THE FINAL SEARCH.

Mr. Melville makes Preparations at Yakutsk. — Russian Assistance.
— Rendezvous at Bulun. — Mr. Melville at Geeomovialocke. —
Depots Established at Kas Karta and Mat Vai. — The Explor-
ations from these Points. — The Discovery of the Bodies. — The
Removal to Mat Vai. — The Entombment. — The Search for Lieu-
tenant Chipp's Party. — The Three Search Parties. — Nindemann's
Journey. — Bartlett's Journey. — Mr. Melville's Journey. — Meet-
ing at Geeomovialocke. — Mr. Jackson and Noros. — The Journey
to Yakutsk. — Lieutenant Berry and Ensign Hunt. — The Return
Home. — Lieutenant Harber's Search. — The Alliance.

As soon as Lieutenant Danenhower had left Yakutsk
for Irkutsk, January 9, 1882, Mr. Melville began his
preparations. He was fortified with a dispatch which
he had received from the Secretary of the Navy, which
read : —

" Omit no effort, spare no expense in securing safety of men
in second cutter. Let the sick and the frozen of those already
rescued have every attention, and as soon as practicable have
them transferred to milder climate. Department will supply
necessary funds."

When Tchernieff, the Governor of Yakutsk, saw this
dispatch, he recognized that it was an official telegram
from the United States government, and informed Mr.
Melville that the whole force of Russia at the command
of the Governor was at his service, and that there was
no limit to the demand which he might make for money,
provisions, or people. It was necessary to have tobacco,

THE FINAL SEARCH. 851

food, and clothing supplied from Yakutsk, and trans-
ported over the mountains in midwinter on pack-horses,
reindeer sleds, and dog sleds to the Lena Delta, the dis-
tance to the Arctic Ocean, by post road, being over
fifteen hundred miles. Mr. Melville engaged three in-
terpreters to accompany him and his assistants, for,
owing to the scarcity of teams on the road, it was nec-
essary to move in three separate parties.

Nindemann and his interpreter started for Bulun
January 19th; Bartlett and his interpreter, with the
provision train, followed on the 23d, and Mr. Melville
remained until the 27th, when he proceeded, accom-
panied by Captain Griinbeck, the captain of the steam-
boat Lena, which plied on the Lena River. With them
also went the Espravnik of the district, who wras to
lend the authority of the government in all their deal-
ings with the natives. Mr. Melville had provided him-
self with the most recent chart of the Lena Delta which
he could obtain, and this bore Nordenskjold's correc-
tions, which were of course not available when the
Jeannette had set out on her voyage. This chart it-
self was still very imperfect and was rendered much
more complete after Mr. Melville and his companions
had traversed the Delta.

Nindemann reached Bulun February 12th, and Mr.
Melville and Bartlett on the 17th and 18th. A month
was required to collect dog teams and provisions, and
to establish depots of supplies at Mat Vai and Kas
Karta, which Mr. Melville had selected as the most
convenient rendezvous. In making the necessary ar-
rangements Mr. Melville was obliged to revisit Geeom-
ovialocke, and to repeat much of the severe experience
in travel of the November before. He was, however,
in far better condition for his work than then : for not

852 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

only had he himself recovered from the effects of his
exposure, but he was relieved of the care of a partially
disabled party, and he was armed with all necessary
authority and means. Accordingly he settled all the
claims which the people in the district had against the
whaleboat party, inquired into the conduct of Kusmah,
whom he suspected to have played them false when he
had sent him from Geeomovialocke to Bulun, brought
to some sort of justice the petty authorities who had
refused proper care of his people when they were in
their wretched condition, and summarily broke up, with
the Espravnik's aid, a ring which had been formed to
get control of all the provisions of the country and ad-
vance the price to the Americans.

In the course of this month he learned much of the
poverty of the natives, and of the risks of starvation
and freezing which were run in this bleak and desti-
tute land. Once at least he was able to rescue one
party from starvation, and by energy and resolution he
carried through his plans until, on the 16th of March,
he was able to set out in company with Nindemann
upon his first search.

They left Kas Karta and found the place, Usterda,
where Captain De Long had crossed the river to the
westward. Nindemann at once recognized the spot, and
they now made search for the hut where Ericksen had
died ; for if they could once find that, their track after-
ward would be greatly simplified. They inquired of
their native attendants for all the huts in the neighbor-
hood, describing particularly the one for which they
were in search, and following the clues given them
went in every direction, but without success. The
snow lay deep on the ground, effectually covering any
traces of previous travelers, and they were themselves

THE FINAL SEARCH. 853

sometimes fighting the storm, sometimes running be-
fore it.

They were compelled to return to Kas Karta, and
now having made up another team for Bartlett, Mr.
Melville sent him to Mat Vai with instructions to work
his way northward on the largest branch of the river
he mio-ht find, while he and Nindemann would work
from the northward to the southward. Both parties
left at the same time. Bartlett ran for Mat Vai, which
he reached, but Mr. Melville and Nindemann were
obliged to camp out all night in the snow, only reach-
ing. Qu Vina the next day, where Bartlett afterward
joined them. They were all working at terrible disad-
vantage, owing to the storm which raged almost inces-
santly, but at length, leaving Bartlett at Qu Vina, Mr.
Melville and Nindemann set out from Mat Vai when
the weather had cleared, with the purpose of going to
the westward along this bay from headland to head-
land as far as the mouth of each river.

" We followed the bay," says Mr. Melville in his nar-
rative, " until late in the evening, having visited all
the headlands ; finally we came up to the large river
with the broken ice. I jumped up on the headland or
point of land making down in the bay and found where
an immense fire had been made. The fire bed was
probably six feet in diameter, large drift-logs hove into
it, and a large fire made, such as a signal fire. I then
hailed Nindemann and the natives, saying, ' Here they
are ! ' They thought that I had found the place where
the De Long party had been. Nindemann came up on
the point of land, and said that neither he nor Noros
had made a fire of that kind, only a small fire in the
cleft of a bank ; but he was sure that this was the
point of land they had turned going to the westward,

854 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

and that this was the river along which he and Noros
had come. I asked them if the Yakutsks made a fire
like that, and they said no ; that they only made small
fires. I then concluded that De Long and his party
had been here, but supposed they had turned, as Nin-
demann and Noros had, down to the westward, and
expected to find them somewhere to the westward.
Nindemann had described an old flat-boat that lay on
the bank of the river a short distance up this same
river. If we found the flat-boat that would show this
to be the river on which Ericksen's hut was located. I
then started up the river with the intention of going
as far as Ericksen's hut, getting the relics there known
to be in the hut, and to return to the point of land and
continue the search between the point where the fire
had been and Mat Vai. Nindemann started with his
dog team in advance, some four or five hundred yards,
and while running along sighted the flat-boat. I fol-
lowed after him, sitting on the sled, facing the bank.
The bank here was twenty-five or thirty feet high
above the bed of the river, and the snow filled in
with a natural slope to the height of the bank, and
passing probably forty or fifty feet out to the river ;
but the wind blew so fiercely in this section that very
little snow lies on the high lands or Tundras. The
snow was blown into the valleys, forming banks equal
in depth to the depth of the natural bank of the river.
It is the custom of the people here in making a search
to go facing the bank of the river, and when they see
anything to attract them, drop off the sled and ex-
amine it, or pick it up and go on. In this manner
about five hundred yards from the point where the fire
had been, I saw the points of four sticks standing up
out of the snow about eighteen inches, and lashed to-

STF

THE FINAL SEARCH. 855

gether with a piece of rope. Seeing this I dropped off
the sled, and going up to the place on the snow bank, I
found a Remington rifle slung across the points of the
sticks, and the muzzle about eight inches out of the
snow. The dog-driver seeing I had found something
came back with the sled, and I sent him to Nindemann
to tell him to come back, he having gone as far up the
river as the flat-boat. When they returned I started
the natives to digging out the snow-bank underneath
the tent poles. I supposed that the party had got
tired of carrying their books and papers, and had made
a deposit of them at this place, and erected these poles
over the papers and books as a landmark, that they
might return and secure them in case they arrived at
a place of safety. Nindemann and I stood around a
little while, got upon the bank, and took a look at the
river. Nindemann said he would go to the northward,
and see if he could discover anything of the track and
find the way to Ericksen's hut. I took the compass
and proceeded to the southward to get the bearings of
Stolbovoi and Mat Vai, so that T might return there
that night in case it came on to blow.

" In proceeding to a point to set up the compass I
saw a tea-kettle partially buried in the snow. One of
the natives had followed me, and I pointed out to him
the kettle, and advancing to pick it up I came upon
the bodies of three men, partially buried in the snow,
one hand reaching out with the left arm of the man
raised way above the surface of the snow — his whole
left arm. I immediately recognized them as Captain
De Long, Dr. Ambler, and Ah Sam, the cook. The Cap-
tain and the Doctor were lying with their heads to the
northward, face to the wrest, and Ah Sam was lying at
right angles to the other two, with his head about the

856 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

doctor's middle, and feet in the fire, or where the fire
had been. This fireplace was surrounded by drift-
wood, immense trunks of trees, and they had their fire
in the crotch of a large tree. They had carried the
tea-kettle up there, and got a lot of Arctic willow
which they used for tea, and some ice to make water
for their tea, and had a fire. They apparently had
attempted to carry their books and papers up on this
high point, because they carried the chart case up
there, and I suppose the fatigue of going up on the
high land prevented their returning to get the rest of
their books and papers. No doubt they saw that if
they died on the river bed, where the water runs, the
spring freshets would carry them off to sea.

" I gathered up all the small articles lying around in
the vicinity of the dead. I found the ice journal about
three or four feet in the rear of De Long ; that is, it
looked as though he had been lying down, and with his
left hand tossed the book over his shoulder to the rear,
or to the eastward of him. I referred to the last pages
of the journal, and saw where the next man had died
after Ericksen. The first man that died after Ericksen
was Alexey, the Indian hunter. The journal stated that
he had died in the flat-boat ; that was about five hun-
dred yards from where we then were. Referring to
the journal, I found that the whole of the people were
now in the lee of the bank, in a distance of about five
hundred yards. In the mean time, the native that
had gone for Nindemann had brought him back. We
covered the bodies with a piece of old tent cloth. . . „
The natives continued to dig underneath the tent-poles,
at the edge of the bank, and after a while struck the
earth and found nothing. In the mean time it came
on to snow and blow. I told the natives to dig away

^"^^^^»^^^^p

THE FINAL SEARCH. 859

for a spell, and just before night set in we found the
head of one man and the feet of another underneath
the snow-bank. The natives being frightened jumped
out of the hole quickly. I told them to dig a little
longer, that the books might be there ; and after dig-
ging for a spell they threw out a box of books, and
exposed the shoulders of a third person. It was about
twenty versts (about thirteen miles) across the bay to
Mat Vai, where our camp was. We stuck a stick of
timber in the hole where we were digging, gathered
up some traps we found, and returned to Mat Vai."

The next day, having sent for Bartlett, Mr. Melville
ordered the two men, with the entire force of natives,
back to the spot where they had discovered the bodies,
with instructions to bring to Mat Vai at night all that
they should uncover. He himself remained in the hut
with the interpreter, to prepare at once dispatches and
letters for his own government and the Russian. Two
days were thus occupied, and at the close of that time
there seemed to be nothing further to be recovered
save the body of Alexey ; and Captain De Long's record
that they had buried him in the river explained the
failure to find him. Mr. Melville offered a reward to
the natives if they should discover Alexey's body, but
desisted from further search.

It then became necessary to find a place for burial.
" The whole of the territory," says Mr. Melville, " to
the northward of where I was, and the headland where
De Long and Ambler had died, was sometimes covered
with ten or fifteen feet of water. The whole of that
portion of the Delta is covered at some seasons of the
year with ice and snow, and is carried away by the
floods that come down the river. When the snows melt
up the river the floods come down the river, rush over

860 THE VOYAGE OF THE JE ANNETTE.

and on the ice like an ocean bore, and carry away
everything. The nearest place of safety was the foot-
hills to northward of the mountains that form the
banks of the Lena River proper. About ten versts
(about seven miles) to the southward of Mat Vai there
was a little whale-back rock between three and four
hundred feet high. I selected a flat spot on the top of
that mountain, and started the hands at work to dig a
hole in the rock in which to set up a cross."

Nindemann and Bartlett were set at work with a
number of the natives to break up the old flat-boat to
get timber to make a box ; and a spruce spar was
found which was hauled to Mat Vai, and used in the
construction of a cross.

It was on the 23d of March that Mr. Melville had
found the first bodies, and on the 7th of April he had
completed his last offices. Every article carried about
the persons of the dead was carefully removed, to be
brought home, excepting a small bronze crucifix found
upon Mr. Collins, and left upon his breast. The bodies
were placed in the box, and the box securely covered
Then a pyramidal structure of timber and stone was
raised over the box. and the cross, with its inscription
cut deep into the wood, firmly fixed above the tomb.
Nindemann, meanwhile, had succeeded in finding the
hut where Ericksen had died, and brought away the
gun, record, and epitaph board which had been left
there. Nothing more could now be done for those who
had perished in this lonely spot, and it remained to
make search for the fate of the second cutter, under
command of Lieutenant Chipp.

It will be remembered that the three boats had
parted in the gale of September 12th off the Siberian
coast. We have followed the fortunes of the first cut-

THE FINAL SEARCH. 861

ter and of the whaleboat. No sign had ever been
given of the second cutter after she was lost to sight,
and there could scarcely be a doubt that she went
down in the gale, an end barely avoided by the other
boats. But Mr. Melville and his companions could not
leave the Delta until every possible search had been
made.

Mr. Melville now withdrew the whole of his force
to Kas Karta, to make that the starting point of his
search. He provided himself with dog-drivers and
guides who were well acquainted with the east and
north coasts of the Delta, established depots of sup-
plies at convenient points, and then divided his force
into three search parties. He sent Nindemann and
Bartlett with four dog sleds and drivers up the main
river to Barkin, where they were to separate, Bartlett
to take the southern track, the east coast of the Delta,
and visit all the headlands, running up rivers as far as
provisions would allow, and continuing until he came
to Geeomovialocke. Nindemann, after he parted com-
pany with Bartlett at Barkin, was to follow along the
north coast of the Delta in the same manner as far as
the river Osoktok, and finally to return to Kas Karta,
there to wait Mr. Melville's arrival.

Mr. Melville himself started to the northward and
westward, followed the coast in the same manner, and
returned finally to Kas Karta about the 21st of April.
As an illustration of the imperfect communication be-
tween parts of the Delta, it may be noticed that Mr.
Melville found natives who were entirely ignorant of
the landing of any Americans on the coast, or of the
various searches which had been made back and forth
across the country.

He found Nindemann at Kas Karta, and both pro-

862 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

ceeded to Geeomovialocke, where they found Bartlett.
They had, in their separate searches, outlined the en-
tire coast of the Delta, run up the mouths of all the
streams, held intercourse with natives in every direc-
tion, and the total absence of any evidence respecting
Lieutenant Chipp and his party left no room for doubt
in their minds as to the fate of the second cutter.

They had been at Geeomovialocke one night only,
when word was brought them that there were Amer-
icans at a village near by. Mr. Melville at once drove
over and found Mr. Jackson and Noros. Mr. Jackson
was desirous of visiting the tomb of Captain De Long
and his party, and left them to go thither ; while Mr.
Melville, Nindemann, and Bartlett set out for Yakutsk,
taking, however, the route by the river Jana, not be-
fore traversed, that no possible stone should be left un-
turned in searching for Lieutenant Chipp.

While at the mountain divide between Verkeransk
and Yakutsk, they were met by Lieutenant Berry and
Ensign Hunt, members of the relief expedition sent
out by the United States Government. This party had
left San Francisco in the U. S. S. Rodgers in June,
1881, and after cruising about Wrangel Island had
gone into winter quarters in St. Lawrence Bay, on
the northeast coast of Siberia. Here the steamer had
caught fire and burned at the end of December, and
while most of the party made their way to St. Michael's
and thence back to San Francisco in the following
spring, Colonel Gilder, Lieutenant Berry, and Ensign
Hunt, in pursuit of the main object of the Rodgers
expedition, travelled west, traversed Siberia and were
now in the Yakutsk district. They joined Mr. Melville,
who gave them the information which he had, and kept
on his way with them, arriving at Yakutsk about the
8th of June.

THE FINAL SEARCH. 863

Here he expected to find Lieutenant Harber, of whose
movements he had heard, but learned that he was then
at Vittim, nearly seven hundred miles up the Lena
River, getting vessels ready for an exploration of the
Delta by water. He hastened forward by steamer, hop-
ing to intercept him, but they passed in the night, as
Mr. Melville learned when he reached a station called
Olekma, where he found a letter from Lieutenant
Harber. Lieutenant Berry decided to send Ensign
Hunt, who had volunteered, back to join Lieutenant
Harber, and Bartlett requested and obtained leave to
accompany him. Nindemann also wished to be of the
party, but Mr. Melville was unwilling to increase Lieu-
tenant Harber's number without better knowledge of
his resources. At this point, accordingly, Ensign Hunt
and Bartlett turned back to Yakutsk, while Lieuten-
ant Berry, Mr. Melville, and Nindemann .kept on to
Irkutsk, where they were joined by Noros, whom they
found there with Mr. Jackson, and from Irkutsk they
made their way to the Atlantic sea-board and thence
to America.

A thorough search of the Delta was made by Lieu-
tenant Harber and his party during the summer, but
without avail, and in the autumn Ensign Hunt re-
turned to the United States, bringing with him Bart-
lett, Leach, Lauterbach, and Manson. Wilson had been
ill and had preceded them, while the Indian Aneguin
had died of small-pox on the journey. Lieutenant
Harber and Master Schuetze asked leave of the Secre-
tary of the Navy to remain another year and make a
still more thorough search, part of their plan being to
visit Semanovski Island. Permission was given, and
they were charged also with the duty of bringing back
to the United States the remains of Lieutenant-Com-

864 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

mander De Long and his comrades from the tomb on
the Lena Delta, for which purpose the United States
government had appropriated the sum of twenty-five
thousand dollars. They made the search, but did not
visit Semanovski Island, and in the spring of 1883
reached Yakutsk, bringing with them the remains.

One further attempt by the United States govern-
ment to communicate with the Jeannette during her
absence should be noted. In the spring of 1881 the
United States Steamer Alliance, Commander George
H. Wadleigh, at the instance of Mr. Bennett, was or-
dered to search for the missing vessel between Green-
land, Iceland, and the coast of Norway and Spitz-
bergen, with instructions to proceed as far north as
77° 45', if it should be possible to get there without
danger from the ice. The Alliance cruised through-
out the summer and took every means to learn of the
Jeannette, and to make known her errand along the
coasts and among the fishing vessels, but returned to
the United States in the fall without accomplishing the
main object of her cruise, though she ascended as high
as latitude 82° N., and showed how much could be
done with a vessel not originally designed for Arctic
exploration.

CHAPTER XXIII.

CONCLUSION.

The Court of Inquiry. — The Points of Instruction. — The Finding
of the Court. — The Voyage of the Jeannette and its Word to the
Reader.

The loss of the Jeannette and the subsequent fate of
the commanding officer and others of the ship's company
were made the subject of a court of inquiry, according
to the rides of the United States Navy. The court was
summoned by the Secretary of the Navy to meet at
Washington, October 5, 1882. Commodore William G-.
Temple was appointed president of the Court, Captain
Joseph N. Miller and Commander Frederick V. McNair,
members, and Master Samuel C. Lemly, judge advocate.
It was instructed " diligently and thoroughly to inves-
tigate the circumstances of the loss in the Arctic Seas
of the exploring steamer Jeannette, and of the death
of Lieutenant -Commander George W. De Long and
others of her officers and men." It was also " care-
fully to inquire into the condition of the vessel on her
departure, her management up to the time of her de-
struction, the provisions made and plans adopted for the
several boats' crews upon their leaving the wreck, the
efforts made by the various officers to insure the safety'
of the parties under their immediate charge, and for
the relief of the other parties, and into the general con-
duct and merits of each and all the officers and men of
the expedition."

866 THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

Under this comprehensive order the court conducted
its examination during eighty-five days, and received
the testimony of the survivors of the expedition, and
of a number of persons who had been personally cogni-
zant of the construction, alteration, and equipment of
the Jeannette. The log-books and journals of Captain
De Long were also read by the court as a part of the
testimony. The records of the proceedings of the court
form No. 108 of the Executive Documents of the Sec-
ond Session of the 47th Congress, House of Represen-
tatives. The finding of the court is reprinted in full
in the Appendix1 to this volume. It is a summary of
the narrative which has been given at length, and a
professional judgment upon those points which were
contained in the instructions to the court.

The reader who has followed attentively the history
of the expedition from its inception to its melancholy
close will have anticipated the judgment of the court,
and will be enabled to enrich its decisions with a
volume of illustrations. In one matter, the proceed-
ings of the court furnish fuller information than this
book. It was not thought necessary to burden the
unprofessional reader with a detailed description of the
measures taken to strengthen the Jeannette for her
northern voyage ; enough has been given to indicate
the character and extent of the work done. In the
testimony before the court, the observations of the offi-
cers of the Mare Island Navy Yard, and the experience
of the officers of the Jeannette, furnish additional evi-
dence ; and the reader who has attended to the vivid
description which Captain De Long gives of the terrible
power of the restless ice will scarcely need to be re-
minded that no vessel built by the hand of man could

1 See Appendix T.

CONCLUSION. 867

resist the ice under certain conditions ; and that the
Jeannette proved herself in the long struggle to have
been exceptionally staunch and seaworthy.

Of the management of the ship up to the time of her
loss no evidence could be so conclusive as the daily
record, begun with so much eagerness to note every
interesting and important fact, continued under circum-
stances of so much discouragement, and constantly
suggestive of the resources of the commander and his
associates, their unflagging zeal, their versatility, their
cheerful resolution, their devotion to the incidental
objects of the expedition, and their thoughtfulness for
the health and comfort of the crew. The final loss of
the vessel was beyond the poAver of man to foresee or
prevent. " Any vessel in like position," says the court,
emphatically, " no matter what her model might have
been, or however strongly constructed, and subjected
to the same pressures as those incurred by the Jean-
nette, would have been annihilated." That the aban-
donment of the vessel was orderly, and the retreat
managed with wisdom appears from the fact that
" ninety days after the destruction of the Jeannette the
officers and men were in fair condition, notwithstanding
their terrible journey." So reads the finding of the
court ; and the narrative drawn from Captain De Long's
ice journal, although necessarily compact and more in
the form of notes than of an extended record, affords
abundant evidence of the strain under which the com-
mander moved through that fearful summer, and of the
discipline and order which prevailed among his brave
comrades.

The final point upon which the court was to inquire
was as to " the general conduct and merits of each and
all the officers and men of the expedition." The find-
ins: is as follows : —

THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE.

" There is conclusive evidence that aside from trivial
difficulties, such as occur on shipboard even under the
most favorable circumstances, and which had no influ-
ence in bringing about the disasters of the expedition,
and no pernicious effect upon its general conduct, every
officer and man so conducted himself that the court
finds no occasion to impute censure to any member of
the party. In view, then, of the long and dreary mo-
notony of the cruise, the labors and privations encoun-
tered, the disappointment consequent upon a want of
important results, and the uncertainty of their fate (and
apart from a natural desire to tread lightly on the
graves of the dead), the general conduct of the per-
sonnel of the expedition seems to have been a marvel
of cheerfulness, good fellowship, and mutual forbear-
ance, while the constancy and endurance with which
they met the hardships and dangers that beset them
entitle them to great praise. Beside the mention al-
ready made, however, special commendation is due to
Lieutenant-Commander De Long for the high qualities
displayed by him in the conduct of the expedition ; to
Chief-Engineer Melville for his zeal, energy, and pro-
fessional aptitude, which elicited high encomiums from
his commander, and for his subsequent efforts on the
Lena Delta ; and to Seamen Nindemann and Sweetman
for services which induced their commander to recom-
mend them for medals of honor."

This decision was reached by the court after the full-
est hearing of testimony. The reader of u The Voyage
of the Jeannette " is in possession of the same general
evidence. It is the record of an expedition which set
out in high hope, and returned broken and covered
with disaster. It is also the record of lives of men
subjected to severer pressure than their ship met from

CONCLUSION. 869

the forces of nature. The ship gave way ; the men
surmounted the obstacles, and kept their courage and
faith to the end. It is, above all, the record of a leader
of men who entered the service in which he fell with
an honorable purpose and a lofty aim ; who endured
the disappointment of a noble nature with a patience
which was the conquest of bitterness ; who bore the
lives of his comrades as a trust reposed in him ; and
who died at his post with an unfaltering faith in God
whom he served and loved.

The voyage of the Jeannette is ended. The scien-
tific results obtained were far less than had been aimed
at, but were not insignificant. Something was added
to the stock of the world's knowledge ; a slight gain
was made in the solution of the Arctic problem. Is it
said that too high a price in the lives of men was paid
for this knowledge ? Not by such cold calculation is
human endeavor measured. Sacrifice is nobler than
ease, unselfish life is consummated in lonely death, and
the world is richer by this gift of suffering.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX A. {See page 48.)

Translation of the Opinion of M. Wilfrid tie Fonvieille, Aeronaut, as
to the Best Manner of preparing Balloons for Use in the Polar

Reg in us.

The captive balloon established by M. Henry Giffard last summer
in the courtyard of the Tuilleries may be considered as offering the
type which the constructors of balloons intended for use in the Polar
explorations should adopt for model. But in reducing considerably
the proportions (which would be absolutely necessary) it becomes in-
dispensable to introduce in the construction of such balloons important
modifications which will necessarily be expensive.

It would be imprudent to construct a balloon capable of resisting
powerful winds without employing two silk coverings, between which
should be placed a strong lining of caoutchouc. The external covering
of silk can be made much lighter than the other. This should be cov-
ered in its turn by a thin coating of caoutchouc, covered again by
muslin varnished over with common flaxseed oil. The balloon of M.
Giffard was composed of two linen coverings separated by a lining of
unvulcanized India rubber. The two linen coverings can be replaced
by two silk tissues, but it is impossible to suppress the external coat of
India rubber, which is intended to prevent the oil from penetrating
inside and attacking the non-vulcanized rubber as well as the silk
covering, which gives to the balloon all its power of resistance, and
which, combined with the caoutchouc, imparts to the whole a sufficient
elasticity.

But little reliance should be placed on the combinations so impru-
dently eulogized by aeronauts, but more especially on the so-called
Meudon varnish, about which the officers of the Engineers make such
a mystery.

The seams should be worked by hand, and should be made very

872 APPENDIX.

solid. It is important to diminish as much as possible the number of
tbe sections of tbe cloth composing the balloon, and this can be done
by having it woven especially for the purpose ; it is also necessary
that the greatest care should be taken to insure regularity in cutting
them. The joinings should be covered with bands of varnished cloth,
but these bands should be made as thin as possible.

It is also advisable to strengthen the head of the balloon round the
valve. For this purpose two coverings of the cloth should be used,
with a lining of caoutchouc between them, the whole covered with
muslin. This might be woven specially, just as a cotton night-cap is
made, and extended to a distance of two metres from the valve in
spherical sections, arranged in divisions of four or six, as might be
deemed advisable.

All the parts of the balloon in the neighborhood of the valve should
be varnished internally and externally, to avoid escape of gas by the
seams.

The valve should be constructed according to the system of M. Gif-
fard, but should be very much lighter. A model of this valve has
been made by M. Comme, and is to be seen at No. 50 Rue Rodier,
Paris, at the Exhibition of the Meteorological Academy.

The netting should be constructed in the ordinary manner.

It is not necessary to suppress the knots, and yet if means could be
found to execute this part of the work without them it would be found
advantageous. It is not absolutely necessary to have a safety valve.
It would be preferable to terminate the neck of the balloon by an
arrangement of the cloth susceptible of being hermetically contracted,
and to which the aeronaut could easily ascend.

There is no means of dispensing with the use of hydrogen gas as
the ascending power, and this necessitates the transportation of a large
quantity of sulphuric acid, — say from seven to eight thousand kilo-
grammes for every thousand cubic metres. It would be possible to
diminish this quantity by taking the acid, carefully rectified, or even
by taking anhydric acid, if the cost be not too great. The iron ought
to be in shavings and not in dust. A portion of them should be taken
in boxes or barrels not liable to oxydation, which would cause a loss
of the acid and of the weight. Before the iron is used it should be well
brushed or shaken.

For generators wine or spirit casks which have already served for
these liquids can be used with advantage, if care be first taken to
see that they do not leak. It would also be advisable to use the
apparatus called VappareU de engagement continu, employed by M.

APPENDIX. 873

Giffard, or something analogous to it. Nevertheless, the loss of gas,
which is inevitable when the constituent elements are renewed, consti-
tutes a serious objection. It is to be regretted that experiments on
the decomposition of steam from water by iron have not been made,
for this process would be infinitely preferable. But I dare not recom-
mend it in the imperfect state of information which the scientific world
is in with regard to it. And yet the aeronauts of the First Republic
inflated their balloons with it during the campaign of 1794.

If it were desired to inflate the balloons of the Polar expedition
with decomposed steam, it would be necessary to train the crew of the
Jeannette to its employment.

It would be equally indispensable to train the aeronauts by prelim-
inary ascensions at sea, in the neighborhood of vessels, and with attach-
ments composed of guide-ropes with running knots.

The car should be unsinkable, and shaped like a boat or like an ice-
sledge, with the anchors and guide-ropes disposed in such a manner
that the draft should always be effected from, the sides, and not from
the ends.

Ascensions should not be made when the thermometer is too low,
for there is then a probability that the caoutchouc might be affected
by the frost, and might crack.

The flaxseed-oil varnish is the only thing to be relied on, if it be
desired to make ascensions under such difficult circumstances.

Efforts should be made to find some means of ascending and de-
scending without sacrificing gas. The experiments which I am mak-
ing in this regard will be concluded before the end of May, and I
shall then be able to give more precise details on the subject.

Wilfred de Fonvieille.

Paris, 15 March, 1879.

APPENDIX B. (See page 67.)

Shipping Articles for the Naval Service for Persons enlisting on
Board of the Arctic Steamer Jeannette.

We, the subscribers, Petty Officers, Seamen, and others, do, and
each of us does agree to and with Lieutenant George W. De Long of
the United States Navy :

In the first place, we do hereby agree for the considerations herein-
after mentioned, to enter the service of the Navy of the United States,
and in due and seasonable time to repair on board the Arctic Steamer
Jeannette, for a cruise to the Arctic Regions, for the purposes of

874 APPENDIX.

. discovery, exploration, and scientific research ; and we do bind our-
selves to discharge our several duties or services to the utmost of our
power and ability ; and to be in everything conformable and obedient
to the several requirings and commands of the officers who may, from
time to time, be placed over us.

Secondly, we do also oblige and subject ourselves to serve well and
truly in carrying out the objects of said cruise to the Arctic Regions
from the date of our signing these to the day on which we are dis-
charged from the Naval Service of the United States by competent
authority.

Thirdly, understanding and appreciating fully the hardships and
dangers to which we may be subjected, and the varied and peculiar
duties which we may be called upon to perform, whether as members
of a ship's company, portions of an outlying and removed colony, or
forming one of a party told off for any particular duty, whether afloat
or ashore, on ice or over it, we none the less cheerfully and willingly
bind ourselves to unhesitatingly obey such orders as may be given us,
and devote to the carrying into effect thereof all our strength and abil-
ity ; and to strictly observe, comply with, and be subject to such laws,
regulations, and discipline of the Navy, as are or shall be established
by the Congress of the United States, or other competent authority,
and to such especial laws, regulations, and discipline as have been
established in this particular case.

Fourthly, recognizing the peculiar situations in which we may be
placed, and the extreme importance of carefully guarding against waste
or improvidence of any kind, we do each severally bind ourselves to
watch over and care for all articles of food, raiment, and equipment ;
to accept such establishment of food, both as to quantity and quality, as
may be directed from time to time by the commanding or other author-
ized officer ; to wear such articles of dress as we may be ordered to wear,
changing, altering, or modifying the same at the discretion of said
commanding or otherwise authorized officer; and to preserve faithfully
the good condition and usefulness of whatever articles of arms or
equipment of any kind may be entrusted to our care.

Fifthly, the said Lieutenant George W. De Long, for and in be-
half of the United States, does hereby covenant and agree to and with
the said seamen, petty officers, and others who have hereunto signed
their names, that they and each of them shall be paid, in consideration
of such services, the amount per month which, in the column hereunto
annexed, headed "Wages per month," is set opposite to their names
respectively ; or the wages due to the ratings which may, from time to

APPENDIX. 875

time be assigned to them during the continuance of their service afore-
said ; and likewise to advance to each and every one of them at en-
trance, due security for the same being first given, the amounts set
opposite their respective names in the column headed "Wages ad-
vanced," the receipt of all which they do hereby severally acknowledge.
It is understood, however, that such payments as are mentioned above
shall cease to be made personally upon the departure of the Jean-
nette from San Francisco, California. The amounts becoming due
from time to time shall be regularly credited and accounted for in the
hooks of such pay or disbursing officer as may be indicated beforehand
by the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, and such allotments of pay
as are desired by the said petty officer's, seamen, and others, and
allowed by the said Secretary of the Navy, shall be paid by the desig-
nated pay or disbursing officer. In the event of no such allotment
being made, the amounts becoming due shall be carried forward on the
books of the designated pay or disbursing officer until the return of
the individual entitled to receive the same, and his discharge from the
naval service of the United States : and in the event of the death or
loss of any one of the said petty officers, seamen, or others, the amount
due and remaining unpaid at the date of such death or loss shall be
paid to the widow or next of kin, as provided for by existing laws.

APPENDIX C. {See page 68.)

Hunter Boll of Officers and Men on Board the Arctic Steamer Jean-
nette at Date of Sailing from San Francisco for the Arctic Ocean,
July 8, 1879.

Lieutenant George W. De Long, U. S. N. . . Commanding.1

Lieutenant Charles W. Chipp, " . . Executive.

Master John W. Danenhower, " . . Navigator.2

Passed Assistant Engineer Geo. W. Melville, U. S. N. Chief Engineer.3

Passed Assistant Surgeon James M. Ambler, IT. S. N. Surgeon.

*Mr. Jerome J. Collins . Meteorologist.

*Mr. Raymond L. Newcomb . Naturalist.

1 Promoted 1 November, 1879, to be Lieutenant-Commander.

2 Promoted 2 August, 1879, to be Lieutenant.

3 Promoted 4 March, 1881, to he Chitf Engineer.

* Shipped as seaman, U. S. Navy. The men were all enlisted in the
Navy under the Special Shipping Articles giveri in Appendix B. Every
man before acceptance was subjected to a searching physical examination.

876

APPENDIX.

*Mr. William Dunbar
*Jolm Cole .

* William Nindemann

* Alfred Sweetman
Walter Lee
James H. Bartlett
Geo. W. Boyd .
John Lauterbach
Walter Sharvell
Nelse Iversen

Ice Pilot.

Boatswain.

Ice Qr. Master.

Carpenter.

Machinist.

Fireman.

Id class Fireman.

Coalheaver.

Seamen.

Louis P. Noros,
Adolph Dressier,
Henry Wilson.
Peter E. Johnson,
Hans Halmoi Ericksen,
Heinrich H. Kaack,

*Charles Tong Sing

*Ah Sam ....

Ah Sing; .....

Frank E. Manson,
Carl A. Gortz,
Herbert W. Leach,
Edward Starr,
Henry D. Warren,
Albert G. Kuehne.

Steward.

Cook.

Cabin boy.

APPENDIX D. (See page 166.)
officers' bill of fare.

Monday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread and butter, bacon,
hominy. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, ox-tail soup, turkey, pie or
chicken pie if no bear, potatoes, succotash. Supper : Tea. milk, sugar,
bread, butter, boneless ham, apple butter.

Tuesday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oatmeal,
St. Michael's salmon, potatoes. Dinner: Hard bread, pickles, mutton
broth with barley, roast mutton, tomatoes, green corn. Supper : Tea,
milk, sugar, bread, butter, tongue, corn meal.

Wednesday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oat-
meal, mutton hash. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, bean soup, pork
and beans, raw onions, potatoes, and duff. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar,
bread, butter, cold pork, peach butter.

Thursday. — Breakfast: Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, hominy,
beef hash. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, mock-turtle soup, roast beef,
canned beans, green peas. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar, bread, butter,
beef hash, prunes or dried peaches or canned pears.

APPENDIX. 877

Friday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oatmeal,
St. Michael's salmon. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, pea soup, corn
beef, tomatoes and oatmeal, potatoes. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar,
bread, butter, cold corn beef.

Saturday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, hominy,
corn-beef hash. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, mutton soup, barley,
pemmican if no bear, potatoes, curried rice. Supper : Tea, milk,
sugar, bread, butter, pemmican and rice, quince butter.

Sunday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread and butter, oat-
meal, canned fish, potatoes. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, beef soup,
salt beef if no seal, maccaroni, beets or carrots or onions, duff. Sup-
per : Tea, milk, sugar, bread, butter, kidneys or pig's feet, canned fruit.

Average per day 3 pounds, 15f ounces each person.

crew's bill of fare.

Monday. — Breakfast: Milk, coffee, sugar, bread, butter, sausage if
seal the day before, hominy. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, roast
mutton if no bear, potatoes, succotash. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar,
bread, butter, mutton hash, apple butter.

Tuesday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oatmeal,
St. Michael's salmon, potatoes. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, mutton
broth and barley, roast mutton, tomatoes, green corn. Supper : Tea,
milk, sugar, bread, butter, mutton, cornmeal.

Wednesday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oat-
meal, mutton hash. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, bean soup, pork
and beans, raw onions, potatoes, duff. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar,
bread, butter, cold pork, peach butter.

Thursday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, hominy,
beef hash. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, bean soup, roast beef,
canned beans, green peas. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar, bread, butter,
roast beef, prunes or canned pears or dried peaches.

Friday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oatmeal,
St. Michael's salmon. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, pea soup, corn
beef, tomatoes and ochra, potatoes. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar, bread,
butter, corn beef.

Saturday. — Breakfast : Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, hominy,
corn beef hash. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, mutton broth, pemmi-
can if no bear, potatoes, curried rice. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar,
bread, butter, pemmican and ground rice, quince butter.

Sunday. — Breakfast: Coffee, milk, sugar, bread, butter, oatmeal,
canned fish, potatoes. Dinner : Hard bread, pickles, beef soup, salt

878 APPENDIX.

beef if no seal, maccaroni, and potatoes, beets or carrots or onions,
duff. Supper : Tea, milk, sugar, bread, butter, seal hash, canned
fruit.

Average per day 3 pounds, 15f ounces each person.

APPENDIX E. (See page 251.)

Extracts from a Memorandum by Dr. Ambler on Ice formed by Sea
Water.

Thk following observations were made during the winter of 1879-80,
at which time the Arctic Steamer Jeannette was beset in the pack to
the north and west of Herald Island, in about 72° to 73° north lati-
tude. As we were out of reach of land, we had to depend for our
supply of water either upon the melting of snow or sea water ice, or
14)011 distillation of the sea water itself. The statements of previous
explorers that they had no difficulty in procuring a sufficient supply of
ice, yielding a pure and potable water, had been accepted, and we had
no doubt but that our own experience would be the same.

Expeditions wintering along the land can, of course, always draw
their supply of fresh water ice from the shore. Those who were un-
fortunately compelled to winter in the pack, obtained their supply
from pools melted during the summer on the surface of the floe and
refrozen. This, possibly, from the probable large admixture of land ice,
both from glaciers and water-courses, and from the heavier falls of snow
on the Smith's Sound route, may have given an absolutely pure water.
Our experience has been different. I have failed to find any ice of
any degree of thickness up to five feet, or ice from any pools found on
the floe surface that woidd give a water absolutely free from salt.
The snow-fall was not great, and as it was naturally very dry from the
extreme cold, it Avas, of course, readily moved by the wind, and it took
but a short time for it to become mingled with the loose granular ice
on the surface of the floe. The wind, too, driving it with considerable
force, may have caused the crystals to act as a sand-blast on the sur-
face of the hummocks, and thus a mixture of snow and salt water ice
made which contained a very large amount of salt. For some time
we used water obtained from the ice of pools and from the snow,
selecting it with care, and obtained a water that was potable, but not
pure, and the use of which should not be long continued. Finally, we
could not find it sufficiently pure to warrant its use, and we commenced
to distill.

APPENDIX. 879

Dr. Kane says that " ice formed at a temperature of 30° Fahren-
heit will yield a perfectly pure and potable element." Lieutenant
Weyprecht says, that they found ice of a " certain thickness " to yield
a pure water. Dr. Kane's statement and the opinions he expressed,
are to the effect that the colder the temperature of the air at the time
the ice is formed, the less salt will be contained in the ice. Dr. Saun-
derland of Parry's, and Dr. Walker of McClintock's expedition, ex-
press directly contrary views, and my experience leads me to coincide
with them. . . . (Tabulated Experiments.) This is simply one of a
number of instances which I think prove the fallacy of Dr. Kane's
opinion that the colder the temperature the purer sea ice. ... As
to an absolutely pure ice being formed at a temperature of — 30°
Fahrenheit, I am fully convinced to the contrary, as I have been able
to examine ice formed at various temperatures from -j- 28.5° Fahren-
heit to — 50° Fahrenheit, and have failed to find any sea water ice
absolutely free from salt. I have equally failed to find the statement
of Lieutenant Weyprecht borne out by my experience. It is true that
in thick ice you will find less salt in the deeper strata than in the upper,
but this is due in a great measure to the fact that the freezing process
necessarily goes on more slowly, as the upper strata of ice already
formed is a poor conductor.

It may be that I have not had the opportunity of examining ice of
the required thickness (Lieutenant Weyprecht does not state how
thick), but from my present experience I should expect to find salt in
any specimen of sea water ice from wherever obtained.

The following tabulated lists showing the result in a number of
experiments noted at the time, and the conditions under which the ice
was obtained, are not intended for comparison with each other, except
in cases marked, but simply to show the result in the given case. For
instance, in No. VIII. of the Table, ice formed at a temperature of
— 16.5° Fahrenheit, shows a much smaller amount of salt than a. of
No. IX. Here the conditions under which they were frozen come
into consideration. No. VIII. was taken from " Fire Hole " or sur-
face of the sea, where there was a more or less free movement of the
water, whereas No. IX. was frozen in a bucket, or rather tub, of a
slightly conical shape (which is an important factor). And also a cer-
tain amount of efflorescence had taken place from No. VIIL, and not
from No. IX. To compare the results obtained from any two speci-
mens you should know precisely all the conditions under which the ice
was formed. In the two specimens given in No. IX. {a., b.), I took
equal quantities of water obtained at the same time and exposed for the

880

APPENDIX.

same length of time in similar vessels, but at different temperatures,
collecting the ice from each, and examining it at the same time.

3

8

0)

^

CJ

' in

li « ■

tn .2

X

^ $

~ ■-

°S

5 £

1

s °

3-u 5

®1

Where obtained.

as

s~~

&

="'?

B J "^

5

Inches.

2.2

o

'3

a.

Z z.

11 =

o .5

C.2 1

Grains.

i.

Sea Water.

1.027

32°

2045

ii.

Floe-piece thrown up by pressure,
exposed to atmospheric changes for

some time, and from which efflores-

cence had taken place.

45

— 17.3°

a. Water from upper 5 inches.

1.007

60°

548.06

b. Water from lower 5 inches.

1.003

67°

347.25

in.

Water from ice of pool in old ice floe.

8.18

IV.

Water from mixed snow and surface
ice.

28.43

V.

Water from melted efflorescence on
young ice.

VI.

Sea water exposed 19 hours in tub.

4253.6

a. Water of entire thickness.

^

— 24.2°

1.0175

51°

1349.7

b. " " upper 2 inches.

1.019

48°

1922.3

c. " " lower 2^- "

932.52

VII.

Ice remaining from No. VI. col-
lected, melted, and refrozen at a tem-
perature above zero not precisely

known.

n

1.0025

55°

143.15

VIII.

Water from ice formed in " Fire

Hole."

*h

— 16.5°

1.016

35°

1096.12

IX.

Sea water, equal quantities, put in
similar vessels, exposed for the same
length of time at different tempera-
tures.

a. Water exposed on deck.

3

— 6° 1.029

32°

2535.8

b. " " in porch.

2

+ 5.6° 1.025

32°

1717.8

X.

Six inches of ice from which efflor-

1881,

March ".

escence had beeu removed.

6

— 39° 1.012

32°

797.1

APPENDIX F. {Seepages 509-512.)

Memoranda of Design for Construction and Fitting of a Vessel for
Arctic Exploration.

By George W. Melville, Chief Engineer, U. S. N.

A ship for Arctic cruising should he as small as possible, and yet he
able to carry her weight and billet her people with comfort. A light
draft is desirable to enable her to clear unknown shoals in strange

APPENDIX. 881

waters, and to seek safety in shallow harbors out of the way of run-
ning ice. The " dead rise " should be made great, for it gives a vessel
more of a tendency to rise when nipped or underrun by ice, thus ex-
posing less of her body to the ramming and underriding of ice floes.
A kettle-bottomed ship is to be avoided, for every consideration of
safety. The only reason for building ships thus is because of their
carrying capacity, — for their " great bowels," as the sailors say.

Great speed is not necessary in an Arctic ship ; it would only result
in her destruction if injudicious or accidental ramming should take
place, although great power is requisite at times to enable her to force
her way through ice obstructions. A coincidence has occurred in our
last two American Arctic cruisers. The Polaris and Jeannette both
had their " fore-foot" damaged, so as to cause continuous pumping
while their crews remained with them, and in the end the Jeannette
had her keel pushed right out of place, bursting open her garboard
strakes, letting the water up through her bottom. Moral : Have neither
keel or stem piece to expose to this danger. Have a false keel that
will be pushed off its place, not out of its place, and fore-foot and wood
ends enclosed or encased in iron sheathing around the bows, not on the
surface of the water alone, but to go all the way down to and beyond
the fore-foot, and clamp the whole together. Narrow bars of iron are
a snare. The whole surface of the ship should be covered by one
fourth inch sheeting of mild steel, for the following reasons : The ice of
the Arctic Ocean is as hard as marble, and when the square edge of a
floe-piece comes against the side of a wooden ship it does not glance
off or slip by : it cuts and gouges in ; the soft wood yields, and where
an iron-sheathed ship would slip up out of the grasp of the ice like a
greased pig from the hands of a clown, the unsheathed ship would be
held fast and crushed. Again, if the frames and planking of an iron-
sheathed ship were crushed, the sheathing would prevent the rapid in-
flow of water into the ship, after the manner of a sail as applied to a
damaged ship's bottom. Pure air and freedom from dampness are as
essential to the health and comfort of a ship's company as pure water
and good food. This can only be accomplished by billeting every
one above the spar deck, and having a condensing chamber surround
the apartment of the people to collect the moisture. Heretofore, it
was supposed that it would be too cold to quarter men above the
spar deck, but in the Jeannette the driest and warmest place in the
ship was in the trunk cabin above the spar deck, and the rudely made
deck house forward was always comfortable in winter time. In this
ship the men's quarters are in the centre of the ship, on the spar deck,
56

882 APPENDIX.

with a three-foot space all around it, and a low pilot house for the
man at the wheel to stand inside the quarters and steer his trick at
the wheel ; another wheel being fitted aft for fine weather or sailing
the ship by the wind.

Economic systems of heating the ship and distilling water for pota-
ble purposes are requisite and necessary, and I have no hesitancy in
saying that the freedom from scurvy enjoyed by the ship's company of
the Jeannette was wholly due to the system of ventilation, the use
of distilled water, and a liberal supply of food. For this purpose a'
heater and distiller are designed for cabin and forecastle, and the steam
after heating the apartments is condensed and used for drinking pur-
poses. A ship in the vicinity of glacier ice can dispense with the
steam heater, and use the less expensive system of stoves for heating.
To carry out these economic and sanitary arrangements a large supply
of coal is necessary : the ship as designed can stow two hundred tons
of coal. For ease and rapidity of working cargo an auxiliary boiler
and engine is fitted, which can also be used for working ship, raising
the propeller, receiving and discharging stores, unshipping the rudder
in time of danger ; and in case of the ship springing a leak the auxil-
iary engine can be used to work one or all six bilge pumps. Then
these pumps are of the simplest and most efficient kind, and can be
worked by hand while steam is being prepared. The bulkheads are
fitted in such a manner that they cannot leak, the inner and outer
planking of the ship being fitted and caulked against a double frame,
and the bulkheads in turn fitted to inner skin of ship, as set forth in
the drawings ; so that the bulkheads, in addition to being as strong a
truss as can be put in a ship, are watertight. No sluice valves are
needed, although fitted as a pair of pumps that can be worked by
hand or steam to each compartment. One peculiarity of the ship is
that the rudder can be lifted at any time, even while the ship is under
way, and can be used at any immersion from a foot of water near the
surface all the way down to its full draft of water. There is no lock,
and the rudder is outside of all parts of the ship, after the manner of
a Dutch galliot, and is made to slide up or down a bobb iron in lieu
of gudgeons and pintles. The iron plating is put on in a peculiar
manner with wood screw bolts, the edges of the sheets being beveled,
and the bolt holes placed and countersunk in such a manner as to
give a clean, smooth surface to the ship's bottom and sides. The keel
is fastened on outside of the plating, and in case of a great strain
being brought on the keel it is pushed off and lost without material
damage to the ship except sailing quality- A light house and deck

^

f\

£==

^Os

\

i=

4

4

p-4

J

i ^

5

^4--

T--

^^

J»

I—

-1--

t=L

tTt-A/o effuse

SHEAR, HALF-BREADTH,
AND BODY PLANS

Showing arrangement of
bulkhead and water - stop
frames in wake of bulkhead.

A VESSEL DESIGNED FOR ARCTIC EXPLORATION.

Note. The designs for this vessel were the work of Chief-Engineer Melville in
the last winter when the Jeannette was in the pack. He submitted them to Lieut-
Commander De Long, who gave them his approval. For description, see Appen-
dix G.

APPENDIX. 887

cover in such manner Lliat all people are accommodated above the
water line, and the whole of the bowels of the ship are given up to
engine, coal, and stores ; a fair division of the cabin space is allotted to
each person, and the berths are made movable, so as to remove any
ice that may form against the cold sides of the ship. Drying room,
bath room, closets, instrument room, photographer's dark room, and
dispensary are all in convenient position and roomy. Cook house for
officers and crew, and pantries to suit, are all arranged on the spar deck.
Provisions are stowed forward, coal amidship, clothing and fine stores
aft. Compound engine and boilers of the most approved type to be
fitted. General dimensions of ship from flank ends forward to for-
ward rabbet of stern post 140 feet on water line, 38 feet beam, 12 feet
draft. All of the foregoing requirements are fitted in the ship in ques-
tion, and fully set forth in the drawings.

APPENDIX G. {See page 657 '.)

Some Remarks of Dr. Ambler on Snow Crystals, etc.

After an experience of two seasons in the Arctic, I have no hesi
tation in saying that the variety of snow formations is as numerous,
if not more so, than in more temperate climates. Without having
made any special study of snow crystals I have been in the habit of
observing them for years, and I can fairly presume that I am as famil-
iar with the different formations as are most people. For some time
past I have paid especial attention to the subject, and have found
myself fully repaid for the trouble.

I will endeavor to give as clear a description as possible of what I
have seen, and for the accuracy of which I will vouch ; and will
undertake to show any one accustomed to the use of a microscope.
As for the deductions I make from the premises they must stand or
fall on their own merits.

It is not necessary for me to point out the well-known utility of the
hexagon in pattern drawing, but to the fact that water crystallizes in
this system may be ascribed all the beauty and variety of the snow-
flower.

The basic water crystal is the right hexagonal prism ; the hexag-
onal pyramid occurs less frequently, the prism most often ending
abruptly in an hexagonal plane, but sometimes being complimented by
the adhesion of the pyramid. The length of the prism varies from

888

APPENDIX.

® )ao:n

Too to 5*0 °^ an mch> few being as large as the ^, the breadth being
as one to three.

The various forms and patterns of the snow-flower are due in great
measure to the amount of saturation of the air stratum in which they
are congealed. The more complete the saturation the larger and
coarser the formation ; the smaller the degree of relative humidity the
finer and more beautiful the patterns. The so called " diamond
dust "falling from a clear sky shows the prism in its most perfect
condition : each little amorphous-looking mass is really made up of a
number of crystals sometimes showing the most beautiful patterns, to
which the large snow-flower, by comparison, is crude and rough.

The method of attachment between the crystals is usually butt to
butt, and they do not often lie across one another. The adhesion be-
tween any two crystals of that character is called striction. Very
small hexagonal scales under the microscope are seen to be built up of
A A' a number of what appear to be smaller

hexagonal plates, but which are really
the ends or butts of a number of hexag-
onal prisms which you are looking down upon, the thickness of the
scale being the longitudinal diameter of the prisms.

Frequently you will be able to make out in the crystal (by proper
manipulation of light) the vacua marked in the accompanying sketch,
•• A and A'." giving the two views.

I account for the formation of vacua in the following way : When
the molecule (as I am inclined to think the molecular group which
forms the practical working unit of water) loses heat the process is as
follows : —

Let Fig. I. represent a section through the middle of the molecular
group, and which simply for convenience we can conceive to be formed

of only two layers of molecules,
A. and B. Now as the outer
layer of molecules A. must ne-
cessarily lose heat sooner by rad-
iation than the inner layer B..
the temperature of any molecule
A. will fall below tbe tempera-
ture of any molecule B. that lies
within. As soon, however, as
this occurs, molecule B. will give
n j > some ot the excess ot neat to A., which will again radiate it; and
so on, until B. gives up all of its heat, A. receiving the last unit, and

some of the excess of heat to A.

APPENDIX. 889

then B. freezes while A. radiates this last unit into space. This pro-
cess, of course, goes on through the whole group.

While this loss of temperature is going on there is an accompanying
change taking place. The molecules A. and B. (B. more rapidly than
A.), in obedience to the universal law of nature, are contracting upon
themselves, and B., moreover, in obedience to another and invariable
law, is contracting and crystallizing in the direction of A., the surface
through which it loses heat And hence we find the two rows of mole-
cules B., which in Fig. I. touched each other in the centre of the
group, are in Fig. II. drawing away from each other, and are concen-
trating and crystallizing in and between molecules A. Molecules A.,
being still liquid or plastic, yield to the pressure, and allow a different
molecular grouping ; so that, although they themselves have obeyed
the same invariable law. yet the difference of time at which they have
done so has allowed a sufficient number of the molecules B. to be thrust
between them, and thus more than make up for their own contraction,
and hence the resultant ice-crystal will present a greater superficies
than the molecular group of H20, from which it was formerly, and
should naturally present a vacuum in its centre.

As an example of the increase of superficial surface by an alteration
of the molecular arrangement, we have only to refer to the common
soap bubble. Of course no similarity of production is implied, but
the result is the same in a degree.

So it follows that, if the reasoning is true, the so-called "expansion
of ice " cannot be looked upon as a special providence for the little
fishes, but must be regarded as another manifestation of the invariable
and immutable course of Nature's law.

April Is/, 1881.

APPENDIX H. (See page 682.)

TIDE MEASUREMENTS MADE AT BENNETT ISLAND,

July, August, 1881.

July 30, 10.26
11.26

P M.

12.26
1.26

2.26

A. M. Feet. Inches.

3.26 .... 0 9
4.26 ...14

5.26 . . , 1 11]

6.26 . . . 2 5\-

7.26 .... 2 8
8.26 ... 2 U1

1 Rise of 2 feet, 4^ inches.

(■ft

Inches

1

2*

0

8*

0

4|

0

U

0

5

890

APPENDIX.

A.M.

Feet

Inches.

P. M.

Feet.

Inches

9.26 .

... 1

104

12.26

. . . 1

n

10.26

. . . 1

5

1.26 .

... 0

8"

11.26 .

... 1

0*

2.26

. (l. w.) 0

7

A. M.

3.26 .

... 0

10

July 31, 12.26

. . . 0

n

4.26

. . . 1

2

1.26 .

... 0

5i2

5.26 .

... 1

8*

2.26

. . . 0

5|

6.26

2

2|

3.26 .

... 0

10

7.26 .

2

84

4.26

. . . 1

4*

8.26

. (H.V) 2

11

5.26 .

... 1

11

9.26 .

2

9

6.26

2

6*

10.26

2

4

7.26 .

... 2

81

11.26 .

'.''.". 1

n

8.11

. (h. w.) 2

2

9 3

A. M.

8.26 .

8

Aug. 2. 12.26

. . . 1

H

9.26

. . . 2

4|

1.26 .

... 0

11

10.26 .

... 1

10. v

2.26

. . . 0

9|

11.26

. . . 1

7i

2.42 .

(l. w.) 0

n

P. M.

3.26

. . . 0

10

12.26 .

... 0

104

4.26 .

... 1

2

1.26

. . . 0

7^
7]

5.26

. . . 1

8

2.11 .

(l. w.) 0
. . . 0

6.26 .

2

2i

2.26

8

7.26

. . . 2

8i

3.26 .

... 0

9Jr

8.26 .

(H. w.) 2

11*

4.26

. . . 1

2
3

9.26

2

101

5.26 .

... 1

10

10.26 .

... 2

"I

6.26

2

5A

11.26

. . '. 2

2{

7.26 .

'.'.'. 2

9

P. M.

12.26 .

... 1

8i

7.56

. (h. w.)' 2

10

1.26

. . . 1

0

8.26 .

... 2

n

2.26 .

... 1

(H

9.26
10.26 .

. . 2
. . . 1

2.56
3.26 .

. (L. W.) 0

... 0

Hi

11.26

. . . 1

5

4.26

. . . 1

if

A. M.

5.26 .

... 1

6

Aug. 1, 12.26 .

... 0

Hi

6.26

2

Oi

1.26

. . . 0

71

7.26 .

2

6i
10

1.54 .

(l. w.) 0

7

8.26

. . . 2

2.26

. . . 0

71

9.16 .

(h. w.) 2

Hi

3.01 .

... 0

7

9.26

2

11

3.21

. . . 0

n

10.26 .

2

8^
3i

4.26 .

... 1

2|

11.26

2

5.26

. . . 1

9

A. M.

6.26 .

... 2

2

Aug. 3, 12.26 .

... 1

10i

7.26

. . . 2

8*

1.26

. . . 1

5i

8.04 .

(H. w.) 2

9|

2.26 .

... 1

1

8.26

. . . 2

9i

3.16

. (l. w.) 1

Oi

9.26 .

... 2

7|

3.26 .

... 1

Oh

10.26

2

9

4.26

. . . 1

3"

11.26 .

' . . .1

8£

5.26 .

... 1

7

2 Fall of 2 feet, 2^ inches.

3 Rise of 2 feet, 3£ inches.

Aug. 4.

APPENDIX.

A.M.

Feet

Inches.

6.26

2

0i

7.26 .

2

6i

8.26

2

in

9.13 .

(h. w.) 3

i

9.26

. . . 3

Of

Aug.

10.26 .

... 2

lOf

11.26

2

64

P. M.

12.26 .

2

If

1.26

.'.'.' 1

8*

2.26 .

... 1

4

3.26

. . . 1

2i

3.41 .

(L. W.) 1

2

4.26

. . . 1

2*

5.26 .

... 1

5*

6.26

. . . 1

10i

7.26 .

2

3|

8.26

2

8

9.26 .

2

11

10.26

. (ii. w.) 2

113

11.26 .

2

8*

A. M.

12.26

2

4}

1.26 .

'.'.'. 1

IOJt

lv_'< ;

. . . 1

n

3.26 .

... 1

±h

3.56

. (L. W.) 1

3|

4.26 .

... 1

4

5.26

. . . 1

6|

6.26 .

... 1

10i

7.26

2

3i

8.26 .

2

8i

9.26

.".'." 2

1H

Aug.

10.26 .

(H. w.) 3

Of

11.26

. . . 2

11

P. M.

12.26 .

2

6

1.26

2

1

2.26 .

'.'.'. 1

n

3.26

. . . 1

6

4.26 .

(L. W.) 1

4|

5.26

. . . 1

53

6.26 .

... 1

8&

7.26

. . . 2

Oi

8.26 .

. 2

5*

P. M.

9.26

10.26
11.26

A. M.

5, 12.26

1.26

2.26

3.26

4.26

5.26

6.26

7.26

8.26

9.26

10.26

11.6

11.26

P. M.

12.26

1.26

2.26

3.26

4.26

4.56

5.26

6.26

7.26

8.26

9.26

10.26

11.26

11.56

A. M.

6, 12.26

1.26
2.26
3.26
4.26
5.26
6.26
7.26
8.26
9.26
10.26
11.26

(H.

891

Feet. Inches

2 '.!.',

w.) 2 1(>
2 9

(L. W.)

(h. w

(L.

(h. w

(l. \v

2 8?>

. 2 11|

.) 3 0

. 2 m

. i

i

i

. i

i

. 2
2

. 2
2

)2

. 1
1

■)1

1

. 1

2

. 2

2

(h. w.) 3

4 0 irark := 0 feet, 5| inches of scale very nearly.
Tidal observations cease. Last man left island about one P. M.

892 APPENDIX.

APPENDIX I.

Report of the Court of Inquiry convened at the Navy Department,
Washington, D. C, by Virtue of an Order signed by the Hon. Wil-
liam E. Chandler, Secretary of the Navy, to Investigate the Cir-
cumstances of the Loss of the Exploring Steamer Jeannette.

Commodore William G. Temple, United States Navy, president ; Master
Samuel C. Lemly, United States Navy, judge-advocate.

February 12, 1883'.

Ix conformity with a joint resolution of the Congress, approved Au-
gust 8, 1882, and in compliance with the orders of the honorable Sec-
retary of the Navy, dated September 29, 1882, the court of inquiry
has diligently and thoroughly investigated —

The circumstances of the loss in the Arctic seas of the exploring steamer
Jeannette, and of the death of Lieut.-Commander George W. De Long, and
others of her officers and men.

The court has also carefully inquired —

Into the condition of the vessel on her departure, her management up to
the time of her destruction, the provisions made and plans adopted for the
several boats' crews in their leaving the wreck, the efforts made by the va-
rious officers to insure the safety of the parties under their immediate charge,
and for the relief of the other parties, and into the general conduct and mer-
its of each and all the officers and men of the expedition.

And the court transmits herewith its proceedings, the testimony
taken, and after mature deliberation reports that the following facts
are deemed established by the evidence adduced : —

First. As to l* the condition of the vessel on her departure."

The Jeannette was originally her Britannic Majesty's ship Pandora,
and was purchased from the British government in April, 1875, by
Sir Allen W. Young, who made two voyages in her to the Arctic re-
gions, and who finally sold her to Mr. James Gordon Bennett in 1877.

By an act of Congress approved February 27, 1879, she was accepted
under certain conditions by the United States government for the pur-
pose of making further explorations in the Arctic regions, and although
the weight of the evidence shows that she was not especially adapted in
strength or model for that kind of navigation, the fact that an expe-
rienced Arctic explorer had voluntarily made two cruises in her to the
Arctic seas sustains the judgment and care shown in her selection
when last purchased.

The vessel was strengthened as much as practicable at the navy-yard,

APPENDIX. 893

Mare Island, California, and such other additions and improvements
were made as were recommended by her commanding officer ; and the
condition of the Jeannette on her departure from the port of San Fran-
cisco was good, and satisfactory to her officers and crew, except that
she was unavoidably deeply loaded, a defect which corrected itself by
the consumption of coal, provisions, and stores.

Second. As to " her management up to the time of her loss."

The lateness of the season when the Jeannette sailed from San Fran-
cisco, her want of speed, and the delay occasioned by her search along
the Siberian coast, under orders from the Navy Department, for the
Swedish exploring steamer Vega, placed the commander at a great
disadvantage on his meeting with the pack ice early in September, in
the vicinity of Herald Island. Either he had to return to some port to
the southward, and pass the winter there in idleness, thus sacrificing
all chance of pushing his researches to the northward until the follow-
ing summer, or else he must endeavor to force the vessel through to
Wrangel Island, then erroneously supposed to be a large continent, to
winter there, and prosecute his explorations by sledges. The chances
of accomplishing this latter alternative were sufficiently good at the
time to justify him in choosing it ; and, indeed, had he done otherwise,
he might fairly have been thought wanting in the high cpialities neces-
sary for an explorer.

This attempt unfortunately resulted in the vessel's becoming beset in
the ice pack within less than two months after her departure from San
Francisco, from which she was never released until her destruction,
more than twenty-one months later.

During these weary months of forced inaction the vessel and her
people were at times threatened with great dangers. Especially was
her destruction imminent on January 19, 1880. when she sprung aleak
from ice pressures, and for months after that date she was kept afloat
only by skillful devices and arduous labor.

It may be here mentioned that throughout the expedition every op-
portunity was improved for gaining scientific information. Meteoro-
logical and astronomical observations, temperature and density of the
sea water, and soundings were taken and preserved ; studies of the
character and action of the ice were noted ; specimens of the bottom
and of such fauna and flora as could be procured were examined.
Three islands were discovered, two of which were visited, explored,
and taken possession of in the name of the United States.

The arrangements to abandon ship at a moment's warning, and to
guard against fire, were all that could be desired, and the evidence

894 APPENDIX.

shows that in the management of the Jeannette up to the time of her
destruction Lieutenant-Commander De Long, hy his foresight and pru-
dence, provided measures to meet emergencies, and enforced wise reg-
ulations to maintain discipline, to preserve health, and to encourage
cheerfulness among those under his command ; and the physical condi-
tion of the people was good, with the exception of a few cases of lead-
poisoning, the result of eating canned provisions. The fact of the ship's
having passed a second winter in the pack without any appearance of
scurvy on board sufficiently attests the excellence of the sanitary ar-
rangements adopted, and reflects great credit upon her medical officer,
Passed Assistant Surgeon James M. Ambler, who throughout the ex-
pedition was indefatigable in the performance of his duties.

Third. As to the circumstances of the loss in the Arctic seas of the
exploring steamer Jeannette.

The Jeannette was sunk on June 13, 1881, from being crushed by
the ice in latitude 77° 15' north ; longitude 155° 50' east, after drifting
uncontrollably in the pack ice since September 6, 1879. Any vessel in
like position, no matter what her model might have been, or however
strongly constructed, and subjected to the same pressures as those in-
curred by the Jeannette, would have been annihilated.

She was abandoned in a cool and orderly manner on the evening of
June 12, and foundered about 4 A. M. the day following, and the court
attaches no blame to any officer or man for her loss.

Fourth. As to " the provisions made and plans adopted for the sev-
eral boats' crews upon their leaving the wreck."

The contingency of the loss of the vessel had been foreseen and pro-
vided for, and when the emergency arose, everything was prepared to
meet it.

The officers and men were divided into three parties and assigned
to the boats best fitted for the anticipated work ; boat and provision-
sledges had been provided, and more boats, clothing, provisions, and
stores were removed from the vessel than could be transported on the
retreat.

The party being thus thrown upon the ice, five days were passed in
arranging for the long journey to the land, and the provisions made
and plans adopted for the several boats' crews upon their leaving the
wreck were judicious, as the evidence shows that ninety days after the
destruction of the Jeannette the officers and men were in fair condi-
tion, notwithstanding their terrible journey.

Fifth. As to " the efforts made by the various officers to insure the
safety of the parties under their immediate charge, and for the relief
of the other parties."

APPENDIX. 895

The retreat commenced on the 18th of June ; and during the ensuing
three months the entire ship's company remained together, under the
direction of the commander, struggling against obstacles which required
indomitable pluck and perseverance to overcome — compelled to drag
their heavy boats and loads of provisions over broken and shifting
fields of ice, at times ferrying them over the water-spaces, and often
carried far out of their course by the drift of the pack, delayed by
storms, fogs, and snows ; there seems to have been no precaution neg-
lected which would tend to insure their safety. During this time, as
well as upon other occasions, the conduct of Ice Pilot Dunbar, Boat-
swain Cole, and Fireman Bartlett elicited well-deserved commendations.

The original plan of retreat was to make a southerly course, presum-
ably, to reach the open water as soon as possible, and thence by way
of the New Siberian Islands to the delta of the Lena, the nearest point
at which it was supposed that relief could be obtained. But the com-
mander found after a time, by observation, that the current was sweep-
ing them so rapidly to the northward and westward that their labor
was almost in vain, and that the course made good Avas but little to the
southward of west. He wisely refrained from discouraging the party
by announcing this fact, and changed his course so as to cross this cur-
rent at right angles, and get beyond its influence as soon as practicable.

After twenty-three days of toil and anxiety, Bennett Island was dis-
covered, where they landed, and occupied eight days in resting and
making necessary repairs to boats. In trying to reach this island the
party suffered many disappointments and encountered unexpected
dangers, difficulties, and delays in overcoming a very short distance,
owing to the swift currents and rapid movements of the broken ice
close to the shore.

A further delay, from August 19 to August 29, was afterwards
forced upon the party by the condition of the ice, which rendered
progress impossible. Meantime it had been deemed expedient at Ben-
nett Island, in order to save food for the men, that about half of the
dogs should be killed, as they were no longer needed to drag the sleds,
and it was considered inhuman to leave them there to starve, and
afterwards all but two of them escaped on the ice ; but still it was
found necessary to reduce the allowance of provisions from time to
time during the remainder of the journey.

On the 12th of September the three boats were separated in a gale
of wind when approaching the Siberian coast, at an estimated distance
of about ninety miles to the northward and eastward of the Lena Delta,
and no further record exists of the second cutter's party ; but as Lieu-

896 APPENDIX.

tenant Chipp, who was in charge of her, was noted for his seamanlike
qualities, it may safely be assumed that he did all that a brave and
capable man could do to weather the gale.

The first cutter and whale-boat, under the command respectively of
Lieutenant-Commander De Long and Chief-Engineer Melville, barely
managed to live through the gale by riding to sea-anchors, and in
rounding to, the first cutter carried away the step of her mast, and the
next day lost her sail, which formed a portion of her drag. During the
gale the professional services of Lieutenant Danenhower, who was on
the sick list, were called into requisition, and he is deserving of credit
for the skill with which he managed the whaleboat, as well as for her
subsequent navigation to the land.

When the weather moderated, both boats endeavored to reach Cape
Barkin, the northeast point of the Lena Delta, upon which the charts
erroneously indicated winter huts and inhabitants.

The whaleboat, with eleven people on board, on striking shoal water
out of sight of land, stood to the eastward, and hauling in for the land
the next day, she was fortunate enough, on September 16, to enter one of
the eastern mouths of the Lena River, and three days afterwards fell in
with natives, who guided them to the village of Geeomovialocke, where
they arrived on the 25th, and subsisted until they were able to com-
municate with the commandant of Bulun.

In the mean time, the first cutter, with fourteen persons in all, had
made the best of her way under a jury mast and sail towards the land ;
but encountering young ice and shoal water, the party, on the 17th of
September, was forced to abandon the boat a mile and a half from the
beach, and to wade ashore through the ice and mud, carrying the few
remaining stores and provisions on their backs. They had the misfor-
tune to land at the mouth of one of the northern outlets of the Lena
River, where no inhabitants were to be found, although a considerable
village, not indicated on their charts, and consequently unsuspected by
them, lay some twenty-five miles to the westward.

They had landed frost-bitten and exhausted, with only a few (lays'
provisions, which were eked out by a meagre supply of game. They
began their painful journey to the southward, hampered in their move-
ments by those who were disabled, but encouraged from time to time
by traces of frequent occupancy in the huts, and footprints about the
fox-traps which they encountered on the way. and they struggled on
manfully, misled by their imperfect map of the country, and always im-
agining themselves near a place of refuge, until toward the end of Oc-
tober, when, after eating their remaining dog, they perished from hun-

APPENDIX. 897

ger and cold, all but two — Seamen Nindemann and Noros, whom the
commander had previously sent on in advance for assistance, and who,
after great hardships, were found and rescued by the natives. These
two men did their utmost to make the natives understand the condition
of the commander's party, and to induce them to go to its relief, but
without success. It seems that there was some confusion in the minds
of these people between the commander's party and that under Mr.
Melville at Geeomovialocke, but the two seamen knew nothing of the
whaleboat's fate, and could not therefore guess at the mistake ; nor is
it probable that if they had returned they would have found any of the
commander's party alive.

Meanwhile the whaleboat's party .remained five weeks at Geeomo-
vialocke, living upon the limited hospitality of a few poor natives, who
saw their winter supplies rapidly disappearing before the hunger of
this large party. They, like the first cutter's crew, had landed frost-
bitten and exhausted, and being ill-fed, and badly clothed and lodged,
they were many days in regaining their strength.

Efforts were made from the first, but without avail, to get transpor-
tation for the party to a place of permanent safety, and also to insti-
tute a search for the other parties, which nevertheless they believed to
have been lost in the gale.

Lieutenant Danenhower started on the 17th of October, with a dog*
team, to explore the coast for the missing boats, but was unable, from
the condition of the ice, to proceed far in any direction, and returned
without results. The wide river, or rather bay, which separated Gee-
omovialocke from the mainland, was sometimes covered with young
ice, too thick for the passage of boats, and too thin for the passage of
sledges, and at times was filled with floating masses of old ice ; while
their ignorance of the language left them unable to express their wants,
or to discover the resources of the vicinity in respect to reindeer or
dog teams.

It was not until October 29 that Chief-Engineer Melville learned
that the first cutter had survived the gale, when he at once started,
and, meeting and consulting with Seamen Nindemann and Noros, did
all in his power to find and succor his missing comrades. He succeeded
in recovering a portion of the records left behind by the commander,
but after nearly sacrificing his life from hunger and cold, and feeling
assured that the remainder of the first cutter's party had undoubtedly
perished, he returned southward to Bulun, and then went to Yakutsk,
where he at once commenced preparations for a more extended search
when the season would permit, in the mean time forwarding to Irkutsk
the members of his party not needed or unfitted for the search.

898 APPENDIX.

On March 12, Chief-Engineer Melville was enabled to assemble the
relief party at Kas-Karta, the appointed rendezvous, when the search
for the first cutter's crew was commenced, and resulted in finding, be-
tween March 23 and 27, the remainder of the records, and the bodies
of Lieutenant-Commander De Long's party, except those of Ericksen
and Alexey, which had been buried in the river.

The bodies were removed and properly interred on high land near
Mat-Vai, safe from the effects of the spring floods.

After this had been done, three parties were formed under the charge
of Chief-Engineer Melville, Seaman Nindemann, and Fireman Bartlett.
respectively, and the coasts and upper portion of the Lena Delta were
thoroughly searched for the second cutter's party, but without finding
any traces of it. The search was continued as far as the river Jana,
and as by this time the sledging season was at an end, the parties re-
turned to Yakutsk, when Chief-Engineer Melville, with all but five of
his men, proceeded home by order of the Navy Department. These
five remained with Lieutenant Harber, who had been sent to aid in the
search.

Considering, then, the condition of the survivors, the unfavorable
season, the limited knowledge of the countiy, the want of facilities for
prosecuting the search, and the great difficulty of communicating with
the natives, everything possible was done for the relief of the other
parties.

The following is a list of the officers and crew of the Jeannette, show-
ing their assignment to the boats on the retreat, and their final fate or
disposition : —

FIRST CUTTER (XIV).

Lieutenant-Commander George W. De Long, United States Navy,
commanding. Died in the Lena Delta.

Passed Assistant Surgeon James M. Ambler, United States Navy.
Died in the Lena Delta.

Mr. Jerome J. Collins (meteorologist). Died in the Lena Delta.

Seaman W. F. C. Nindemann. Sent ahead for relief and rescued
by natives ; a witness before the court.

Seaman Louis P. Noros. Sent ahead for relief and rescued by na-
tives ; a witness before the court.

Seaman Heinrich H. Kaack. Died in the Lena Delta.

Seaman Carl A. Gortz. Died in the Lena Delta.

Seaman Adolph Dressier. Died in the Lena Delta.

Coppersmith Walter Lee. Died in the Lena Delta.

Seaman Hans H. Ericksen. Died in the Lena Delta.

APPENDIX. 899

Coalheaver Nelse Iversen. Died in the Lena Delta.

Coalheaver George W. Boyd. Died in the Lena Delta.

Seaman Ah Sam. Died in the Lena Delta.

Seaman Alexey (dog-driver and hunter). Died in the Lena Delta.

SECOND CUTTER (vill).

Lieut. Charles W. Chipp, United States Navy, commanding.
Seaman William Dunbar (ice pilot).
Seaman Alfred Sweetman.
Seaman Henry D. Warren.
Seaman Peter E. Johnson.
Seaman Edward Starr.
Seaman Alhert G. Kuelme.
Coalheaver Walter Sharvell.

Of which boat, with her crew, no record exists subsequent to the
gale of September 12, 1881.

WHALEBOAT (xi).

Chief-Engineer George W. Melville, United States Navy, command-
ing. Rescued by natives ; a witness before the court.

Lieutenant John W. Danenhower, United States Navy. Rescued by
natives ; a witness before the court.

Mr. Raymond L. Newcomb (naturalist and taxidermist). Rescued
by natives ; a witness before the court.

Seaman John Cole (boatswain). Rescued by natives ; now an in-
mate of the Government Insane Asylum.

Fireman James H. Bartlett. Rescued by natives ; retained in Sibe-
ria to assist Lieutenant Harber.

Seaman Herbert W. Leach. Rescued by natives ; retained in Sibe-
ria to assist Lieutenant Harber.

Seaman Henry Wilson. Rescued by natives ; a witness before the
court

Seaman Frank E. Manson. Rescued by natives ; retained in Siberia
to assist Lieutenant Harber

Seaman Charles Toug Sing. Rescued by natives ; a witness before
the court.

Coalheaver John Lauterbach Rescued by natives ; retained in Si-
beria to assist Lieutenant Harber.

Seaman Aneguin (dog-driver and hunter). Rescued by natives; re-
tained in Siberia to assist Lieutenant Harber; subsequently died at
Kirinsk.

900 APPENDIX.

Sixth. As to " the general conduct and merits of each and all the
officers and men of the expedition."

There is conclusive evidence that aside from trivial difficulties, such
as occur on shipboard even under the most favorable circumstances, and
which had no influence in bringing about the disasters of the expedi-
tion, and no pernicious effect upon its general conduct, every officer
and man so conducted himself that the court finds no occasion to im-
pute censure to any member of the party.

In view, then, of the long and dreary monotony of the cruise, the
labors and privations encountered, the disappointment consequent upon
a want of important results, and the uncertainty of their fate (and
apart from a natural desire to tread lightly on the graves of the dead),
the general conduct of the personnel of the expedition seems to have
been a marvel of cheerfulness, good-fellowship, and mutual forbear-
ance, while the constancy and endurance with which they met the hard-
ships and dangers that beset them entitle them to great praise.

Besides the mention already made, however, special commendation
is due to Lieutenant-Commander De Long for the high qualities dis-
played by him in the conduct of the expedition ; to Chief-Engineer Mel-
ville, for his zeal, energy, and professional aptitude, which elicited high
encomiums from his commander, and for his subsequent efforts on the
Lena Delta ; and to Seamen Nindemann and Sweetman, for services
which induced their commander to recommend them for medals of
honor.

Finally, it should be stated that there are several of the survivors of
the Jeannette who have not yet returned from Siberia, and whose testi-
mony might or might not modify the conclusions set forth in this report.

Wm. G. Temple,
Commodore, United States Navy, president.
Sam. C. Lemly,
Master, United States Navy, judge-advocate.

And the doors having been reopened, the court then, at 4 p. m., ad-
journed to await the further orders of the honorable Secretary of the
Navy. Wm. G. Temple,

Commodore, United States Navy, president.
Sam. C. Lemly,
Master United States Navy, jit dye-advocate.

APPENDIX 901

Navy Departm ent,
Office of the Judge-Advocate-General,

February 17, 1883.
Respectfully submitted, with the recommendation that the finding of
the court be approved. Wm. B. Remet,

Judge-advocate-general.

Navy Department, February 17, 1883,
The finding of the court is approved.

Wm. E. Chandler,
Secretary of the Navy.
eighty-fifth day.

Navy Department,
Washington, D. C. Saturday, April 7, 1883 — 10.30 a. m.
The court met pursuant to the adjournment of yesterday.
Present, Commodore William G. Temple, United States Navy, pres-
ident ; Commander Frederick V. McNair, United States Navy, mem-
ber ; and Lieutenant Richard Wainwright, United States Navy, judge-
advocate.

The record of the proceedings of Friday, April 6, 1883, the eighty-
fourth day of the inquiry, was then read, and. after correcting clerical
errors, was approved.

The court was then cleared for deliberation, and agreed upon the fol-
lowing report : —

In obedience to the order of the honorable Secretary of the Navy,
dated March 29, 1883. the court of inquiry of which Commodore Wil-
liam G. Tern j ile. United States Navy, is president, reassembled at the
Navy Department, at 12 o'clock M. on Friday, the 30th instant, for the
purpose of completing the investigation of circumstances of the loss in
the Arctic seas of the exploring steamer Jeannette. and the death of
Lieutenant-Commander De Long and others of the officers and men. &c.
Having concluded the examination of the survivors of that vessel
who have recently returned from Siberia, the court have the honor
herewith to report its further proceedings, with the testimony, and.
after mature consideration of the evidence adduced, find that no modi-
fication is requisite in their conclusions reported February 12, 1883.

William G. Temple,
Commodore, United States Navy, president.
Richard Wainwright,
Lieutenant, United States Navy, judge-advocate.

902 APPENDIX.

And the doors being reopened, the court then, at 11.50 A. M.. ad-
journed to await the further orders of the honorable Secretary of the
Navy. William G. Temple.

Commodore, United States Navy, president.
Richard Wainwright,
Lieutenant, United States Navy, judge-advocate.

Navy Department,
Office of the Judge-Advocate-General,

April 23, 1883.
Respectfully submitted, with the recommendation that the finding- of
the court be approved, Wm. B. Remey,

Judge-advocate-general.

Navy Department, April 23, 1883.
The finding of the court is approved.

Wm. E. Chandler,
Secretary of the Navy.

INDEX.

Adams, Captain, rescues the Polaris
crew, 37.

Ah Sara goes on a hunting expedition,
156 ; does Tong Sing's work when
lie is sick, 1 58 ; has a fever, and his
work is taken by Tong Sing, 355 ;
flies kites, 526, 528; experience with
a bear, 536 ; his dead body found, 855.

Air, precautions taken to secure fresh,
155, 470; measurement of, 471.

Ajaket, 846.

Alaska Commercial Company, 83 ; fur-
nishes supplies, 87.

Alaska, U. S. Steamer, 76.

Alcohol, value of, in warding off hun-
ger, 794.

Ale, value of, in the Arctic, 325.

Alert, U. S. Steamer, 76 ; carbonic acid
in, 131.

Alexey, Indian hunter, engaged at St.
Michael's, 95, 96 ; his wife"~96 ; talks
with an old squaw at Cape Serdze
Kamen, 105; his views on dogs, 162 ;
has a tussle with a bear, 179 ; gives a
native dance, 204, 208; digs out ice
under the bow, 220; politeness of,
272 ; meets with an accident, 409 ; on
the sick list, 521 ; causes of anxiety,
631 ; kills reindeer in an hour of anx-
iety, 765 ; is baptized and dies, 797 ;
vain search for his body, 856.

Alliance, U. S. S. sent in search of the
Jeannette, 864.

Allison's Bay, 18, 20, 28.

Ambler, James M., surgeon of the Jean-
nette, 64; his high qualities, 65; at
sea, 80; a Mark Tapley, 91 ; on a
bunting party, 94 ; experiments to de-
termine amount of carbonic acid in
sleeping quarters, 131 ; his curious
dream, 162 ; taken ill, 221 ; perforins
operation on Danenhower's eye, 227 ;
tests presence of salt in ice, 2*51 ; des-
cribes geological formation of Bennett
Island, 681 ; his dead body found,
855; and buried, 860; memorandum
by, on ice formed by sea water, 878;
remarks of, on snow crystals, 887.

Aneguin, Indian hunter, engaged at St.
Michael's, 95 ; takes part in tableaux,
208 ; digs out ice under the bow, 220 ;
cleverness at learning English, and
politeness, 272 ; finds a house, 519;
serves out pie to the dogs, 543 ; dies
of small pox, 861.

Arctic day, a perfect, 334.

Arctic fox caught, 237, 238; another,
after much tribulation, 478.

Arctic scenery, 213; beauty of, 358,
457 ; a night scene, 472, 474.

Arctic vessel, memoranda of design for
construction of, 880.

Arrhu, 830.

Articles of War, read monthly, 484.

Auroral displays, 189, 197;" less fre-
quent with the lengthening days, 270;
description by Mr. Collins, 287 ; re-
appearance of, at end of summer,
439; brilliant colors, 449, 479; de-
scription of, by Lieut. Chipp, 497.

Baffin Islands, 17.

Bailey, Captain, experience of, with re-
gard to ice north of Behring Strait,
362.

Baird, S. F., 66, 67.

Ballorh, one of the huts in which Capt.
De Loug had left records, 841, 842.

Balloons, the use of in Polar exploration,
49 ; best manner of repairing them,
871.

Barencap, 741.

Barkis, the point aimed at on the Lena
Delta, 829.

Barometric action, 488.

Bartlett, J. H., fireman, sent by Lieut.
Danenhower with dispatches to Mr.
Melville, 837 ; left in charge at Bu-
lun, 838 ; retained by Mr. Melville
to assist in search, 847 ; engages in
the search, 851 ; searches for Lieut.
Chip]), 861 ; returns to Yakutsk, 863 ;
and to the United States, 863.

Baxter boiler, used with the auxiliary
pump, 222 ; connected with the bilge-
pump, 224, 226 ; its good work, 230 ;

904

INDEX.

expectations of, 234, 235 ; kept in use,
240, 244, 245, 247-250, 257, 261, 262,
266, 271 ; breaks down, 272; further
use, 307, 313, 316, 332; used only for
distilling, 368.

Bears, the' first hunt for, 128; the first
one killed, 149, 236, 238; dogs fight-
ing with, 304 ; a successful chase,
348; tenacity of life in, 351, 352;
'meeting of a bear with the captain,
426; a group of, 431; dimensions of
a prize, 462 ; a severe fight, 524.

Bchring Sea, character of the, 98.

Behring Strait, proposed as a route for
the expedition, 45, 46 ; decided upon,
48: passed through by the Jcannette,
104.

Bennett, James Gordon, suggested by
Mr. Grinnell as the founder of an
Arctic expedition, 43 ; his consulta-
tions with G. W. De L., 43 ; writes
concerning Dr. Petermann, 47 ; his
testimonial of Cole, 53 ; his refusal
to interfere in appointments, 62 ; re-
ceives advice, 69 ; his farewell dis-
patch, 72 ; his intentions toward the
crew, 82 ; his efforts to send help,
864.

Bennett Island, first discovery of, 634 ;
Mr. Dunbar sent to look for, 645 ; re-
port of Mr. Dunbar, 652 ; seen to be
not one of the Liakhoff islands, 655 ;
is shown the stars and stripes, 665 ;
landed upon, 676 ; added to Ameri-
can soil, 679 ; measures taken to ex-
plore, 680 ; its geological formation,
681 ; left behind, 692.

Berrv, Lieut., 862, 863.

Bessells, Dr., 42.

Bills of fare, 166, 876.

Boats, distribution of company in, 694.

Bone Harpoon heads, 101.

Bone-pipe, 99.

Borkhia, Cape, reached by the whale-
boat party, 831.

Bovd helps to show where the leak is
not, 248.

Braine, D. L., captain of the Juniata,
orders of to G. W. De L., 13 ; wel-
comes him back with relief, 31, 36.

Brick Church, 85.

Brown Island, 17, 27.

Bulcur, reached by Nindemann and
Noros, 815 ; visited by Mr. Melville
839, 845.

Brushwood, odor of burning, 415.

Bulun reached by Nindemann and No-
ros, 823 ; a station occupied by the
men at different times, 837, 838", 839,
846,851.

Bulun, North, 840, 841.

Burulak, 838, 839, 846.

Butterflv, found in the Arctic Ocean,
639.

Canandaigua, IT. S. S., G. W. De L.

ordered to, 7 ; cruise of, 8.

Canned meats, tastelessness of, 238.

Carbonic acid, experiments to deter-
mine the amount of, in sleeping quar-
ters, 131, 135, 165; increase of, 247;
tests of, 340 ; reappearance of, and
precautions, 470.

Chinese boy on the Jeannette, misery of
when sea-sick, 78 ; his uselessness,
94 ; is discharged and sent back, 99.

Chipp, Charles W., accompanies G. W.
De L. on the Little Juniata, 14, 18;
the choice of G. W. De L. as his lieu-
tenant, 43 ; is detached from the Ash-
uelot and assigned to the Jeannette,
62 ; charged with selection of the crew,
68 ; his character, 79, 91 ; lands at
Serdze Kamen and makes inquiries
regarding Nordenskjold, 108; sent
with a party to explore Herald Isl-
and, 123; his report, 124; observa-
tions of on ice-openings, 164 ; his en-
ergy in an emergency, 223 ; flies kites,
526 ; overworked, 532 ; on the sick
list, 549; his description of calling
the watch, 673 ; sent with a party to
explore the west side of Bennett Isl-
and, 684 ; his return, 688 ; in com-
mand of the second cutter; instruc-
tions given him, 730 ; the last that
was seen of him and his party, 828 ;
the search made for him, 861.

Christmas, 1879, 202; 1880, 495; the
dinner, 496.

Chuckch language, the, 100, 101.

Coal, economical use of, 133 ; bitumin-
ous, found on Bennett Island, 680.

Cochran, Pavmaster, 203.

Cogan, Captain, 99, 100.

Cold weather, signs of, 191,212; borne
well by the men, 265 ; sensitiveness
to, 475 ; influence on observations,
477 ; personal comfort in, 505 ; more
perceptible in summer than in winter,
531.

Cole, John, boatswain, employed by Mr.
Bennett and transferred to the Jean-
nette, 52 ; on watch, 77 ; his tem-
perament, 81 ; dances a jig, 208 ; suf-
fers from mental aberration, 847 ; re-
quires a special attendant, 848.

Collins, Jerome J., meteorologist of the
expedition, 66 ; his relations with G.
W. De L. and the officers, 67; on the
voyage to the north, 78 ; his disposi-
tion to pun, 92 ; on a hunting party,
94 ; photographs the first bear caught,
129; discovers opening in ice, 165;

INDEX.

905

composes a prologue, 208 ; discovers \
magnetic particles in sand, 434 ; finds
good luck in a snow-bird lighting on
a flagstaff, 761 ; his dying the last
word recorded by the captain, 800;
crucifix buried with him, 860.

Compasses, effect of temperature on the
needles of the, 335.

Cone Island, 17.

Congregation, limited, at divine service,
448.

Congress passes a bill accepting the
Jeannette, 54.

Cook, Chinese, on the Jeannette, 78, 80;
his excellence, 82 ; his slight deficien-
cies, 93 ; indifference to weather, 271 ;
interchange of work with steward,
355.

Coral brought up in dredging, 148.

Court of inquiry held upon the Jean-
nette, 865 ; its examination and find-
ing, 866-868; text of finding, 892-
902.

Crimson snow, 447.

Danenhower, John W., goes in Jean-
nette to San Francisco as executive
officer, 52 ; in charge at Mare Island,
57 ; on the voyage to the north, 80 ;
his character, 91 ; starts a school of
elementary navigation for the crew,
190; beginning of trouble in his left
eye, 202; further trouble, 211; his
case excites uneasiness, 212 ; his cheer-
ful courage, 212 ; operation performed
on his eye, 227 ; disquiet caused by
his case, 229 ; critical condition, 241 ;
aggravation of his case, 259 ; sixth
operation on his eye, 274 ; his heroic
endurance, 274 ; unaffected by scur-
vy, 309 ; a relapse, 347 ; his helpless-
ness, 379; his cheerfulness, 391 ; im-
possibility of satisfactory surgical
operation on shipboard, 530 ; makes
an attempt to reach Barkin, 834 ; left
in charge of the whaleboat party by
Mr. Melville, 836 ; joins Mr. Melville
at Burulak, 838 ; proceeds to Ya-
kutsk, 839 ; to Irkutsk, 847 ; returns
to United States, 848.

Danes as Arctic sailors, 48.

Darkness, effect of, on human beings,
193; experiments regarding, 195;
bleaches the face, 231.

Day, in the Arctic, record of a, 383, 384.

De Haven expedition, the, and its ex-
perience of scurvy, 290, 291.

De Long, George Washington, paren-
tage and birth, 1 ; character of his
mother, 1; early education, 2: choice
of profession, 3; enters the office of
Mr. Oakey, 4 ; eager to enlist, 4 ;

applies for admission to Naval Acad-
emy, 5 ; his rebuff, and his way out
of his difficulties, 6 ; graduates, 7 ; is
ordered to U. S. S. Canandaigua, 7 ;
presents his views to Admiral String-
ham, 8 ; promotion, 8 ; ordered to the
Lancaster, S ; death of his mother
and father, 9 ; hurries to Havre, 9 ; is
married under difficulties, 10 ; is or-
dered to the Nantasket as executive
officer, 11 ; is ordered to the Frolic
and then to the Juniata, 12; volun-
teers for special service, 12; takes
command of search party in Little
Juniata, 13; receives his orders, 13;
starts on voyage to the north, 15;
puts in at Tessiussak, 16 ; passes Cape
Shackeltou, 17; caught in the pack,
18; iu the fog, 19; driven by the
storm, 22 ; gives up the search, 26 ;
returns to the Juniata, 30 ; the peril
in which he was, 31 ; his account to
his wife, 32 ; tenders his services iu
eveut of another Arctic expedition,
37 ; his power of endurauce illustrated,
37 ; his first and only appearance in
opera, 38 ; his circus feat, 39 ; his
courtesy and kindness, 40 ; interview
with Mr. Grinuell, 42; proposals
made to Mr. Bennett, 43 ; attached to
the St. Mary's, 43 ; makes search for
an Arctic vessel, 44; writes to Mr.
Bennett upon purchase of the Pan-
dora, 45 ; proposes plans of procedure,
46 ; inquires into the practicability
of balloons in the Arctic, 50 ; sails with
his wife and child for San Francisco,
52 ; his responsibility in preparing for
the expedition, 55 ; ordered to Wash-
ington to meet the Secretary of the
Navy, 56 ; gives instruction to Master
Danenhower, 57 ; his regard for econ-
omy, 59 ; his varied tasks, 62 ; writes
to Lieut. Chipp, 63 ,• his estimate of
his associates, 66 ; his views regarding
the crew, 68 ; his disappointment that
Mr. Bennett could not bid them fare-
well, 71 ; his motives for the expedi-
tion, 73; his character, 74 ; survey of
himself, 92 ; leaves a letter regarding
Nordenskjold at Cape Serdze Kamen,
106; physical condition, first winter,
165 ; anxiety of mind at the action of
the ice, 177 ; disinclination to describe
ice-scenery, 187 ; his anxiety at the
condition' of affairs, 221, 229, 259;
tries his hand at driving a dog team,
310; depression at the outlook, 360 ;
bis sense of impotence, 3£3 ; af-
fected by the silence of the Arctic,
396 ; discouragement, 404, 405 ; sur-
vey of the situation, 410 ; encounter

906

INDEX.

with a bear, 426 ; speech to his men,
New Year's eve, 499 ; knocked down
by the windmill, 563 ; orders the ship
to be abandoned, 574 ; alarm at dis-
covering the northing made on the
march, 606 ; confides his knowledge
only to Mr. Melville and Dr. Ambler/
611 ; reflections upon Fourth of July,
623 ; has a narrow escape from drown-
ing, 649 ; leaves record on Bennett
Island, 689 ; miserable for want of a
smoke, 719; instructions to Lieut.
Chipp, 731 ; suffering in his feet, 738;
leaves record on Semenovski Island,
747 ; is separated from other boats,
749 ; lauds on Lena Delta, 753 ;
leaves record on shore, 756; begins
march, 757 ; is cheered by a passage
in the gospel, 758 ; proposes to send
a relief party forward, 764 ; attempts
a raft, 768 ; his trust in God, 772 ;
perplexed over the situation, 774 ; his
distress over Ericksen's misfortune,
778; leaves record in hut, 782; reads
prayers over the dying Ericksen, 788 ;
sends Nindemann and Noros forward
for help, 795 ; his last record, 800;
finding of his body, 855; burial, 860;
removal of remains, 864 ; finding of
the court of inquiry upon his com-
mand, 868 ; his character, 869.

De Long. Mrs. Georue W., accompanies
her husband in the voyage through
Magellan Straits, 52 ; letters to, from
G. W. De L., 77, 82, 88, 96 ; health
drunk at Christmas, 203.

De Long, Sylvie, 52 ; health drunk at
Christmas, 203 : i:ives name to flag
on her father's sled, 584.

Devil's Thumb, 18, 27, 28.

Diomede Islands, 99.

Discipline, first ease of, 641.

Discovery, carbonic acid in, 131, 132.

Distilling, difficulties of, 192.

Dodge, Henry \Y., pilot on the Little
Juniata,14; his services, 19, 21, 35.

Dogs, the forty, 98 ; turned out on the
ice for exercise, 121 ; the difficulty of
keeping them on shipboard, 177;
their instinct for danger, 193 ; sick-
ness and death among, 205, 206 ;
trouble with their food, 254 ; effect
on the dogs, 255 ; names of, 293 ;
driving a team of, 310; watch kept
by them over the walrus meat, 319;
taking comfort, 329; their fondness
for fighting, 343 ; their treatment of
eaeli other, 344 ; their cunning, 345;
indifference to their surroundings,
387 ; punishment of the hoodlum
gang, 401 ; scarcity of food for,
453; influence of the hoodlums upon

the others, 460 ; Esquimaux treat-
ment of, 487 ; their diet in the win-
ter, 515; Dan and his tape-worm,
516; treatment when injured, 529;
short commons for, 542 ; pie served
out to them, 543 ; taken with fits,
642 ; ten of them shot, 691 ; others
shot or lost, 698, 699; Kasmatka
shot, 714; the last one shot for food,
787.

Drift, difficulty in accounting for, 134;
record of, 283 ; explanation of, 369.

Drift-wood from Siberia, 275.

D neks, 333.

Duck Island, 17, 27.

Dunbar, William, ice-pilot of the Jean-
nette, 66; watch-officer, 77 ; his qual-
ities, 81 ; on a hunting party, 94 ; his
estimate of distances, 160; his pre-
vious experience, 199 ; depression in
sickness, 202; kills a bear, 2.39; re-
gaining strength, 308 ; observation of
an ice phenomenon, 309 ; his estimate
of distance put to the test, 332 ; the
first to suffer from snow-blindness,
336; is snow-blind again when going
to Henrietta Island, 564 ; sent for-
ward to get a better view of Bennett
Island, 645 ; his perplexity in making
out the land, 653 ; sent to explore
south side of Bennett Island, 682 ; his
report, 685 ; his fainting spells, 741.

Edison's generator, 154.

Electric machine, worthlessness of, 163.

Electric phenomenon, 135.

Emma, Cape, Bennett Island, 679.

Ericksen lies down and desires to be left,
758; has his foot amputated, 777; is
delirious, 787 ; prayers are read for
him, 788; dies, 790; is buried, 791;
finding of epitaph board, 860.

Exercise in cold weather, 262 ; its con-
nection with ventilation, 481.

Faddejew (Thaddeus) Island, 720;
Hut, 725.

Flute, a, for the Arctic vovage, 70.

Fonvielle, Wilfrid de, aeronaut, 50 ;
opinion of, as to the best manner of
preparing balloons for use in the po-
lar regions, 871.

Food, tables of, 137-144; character of,
322, 385.

Forecastle, dryness of, 1-J9.

Franklin, Sir John, Dr. Ambler's dream
of, 162.

Freezing, depth of, 292.

Fuel, economy of, 306.

Geeomovialocke, the place where the
whaleboat party was detained, 832.

INDEX.

907

George, chief, 99 ; his report of Nor-
denskjold's expedition, 100.

Gilder, Col. VV. H, 860.

Glasgow, General, finds technical diffi-
culties in the way of G. VV. De L.'s
marriage, 10.

Godhavn, 32.

Goggles liable to frost, 266 ; made of
horse-hair, 269.

Grant, General U. S., 52.

Greeks as Arctic sailors, 47.

Greenbaum, Mr., of the Alaska Com-
pany, and his liberality, 88.

Greer, James A., 28.

Gfinnell Henry, conversation of, with
G. W. De L.", 42.

Gronbeck, Captain, joins in the search,
851.

Guillemots, 340.

Gulf stream affected by the ice, 373.

Hall, Captain, 70.

Hamilton, Frank, machinist on the Lit-
tle Juniata, 14.
Hand-pumping, 272 ; impracticability

of for any length of time, 273 ; effect
of upon men, 307 ; slight amount re-
quired, 396, 446.

Harber, Lieut. Giles B , sent out in
search of the Jeannette party, 848 ;
his operations, 863.

Harrison, C. H., 76.

Henrietta Island, first seen, 548; diffi-
culty of getting bearings of, 554 ; party
sent out to land on, 555 ; return of
party, 563 ; taken possession of, 564.

Herald, New York, 53.

Herald Island, first sighted, 114; land
beyond, 115; exploring party sent to,
123; its character, 125; gradually
disappearing, 127 ; almost out of sight,
134; reappearance of, 148; its doubt-
ful form, 153; again sighted, 174,
264 ; the point of departure in the log,
350.

"Horpish," 100, 107, 108.

Horse's Head, 17, 27.

Huguenot descent of G. W. De L., 1.

Hunt, Ensign, 862, 863.

Hyde, Fanny A., the consort of the
Jeannette, 76 ; impatiently awaited
at St. Michael's, 90 ; arrival, 92 ; is
sent back from St. Lawrence Bay,
103, 104.

Ice, movement of, 165, 166, 167, 168;
character of the sound of, 169, 170;
its awful appearance, 171, 172; anx-
iety caused by, 177; new movement
of, 196 ; formation of, 199 ; sounds
of, 209, 213, 214; excitement and
worry caused by, 215; severe pres-

sure of upon the ship, 218 ; hardness
of, 282 ; floats deeper in winter than
in summer, 299 ; clearing of, from
tiller room, 315 ; from the captain's
cabin, 318 ; from the chart room, 324 ;
difficulty in travelling over, 349, 359;
sledging over with a load of bear's
meat, 362 ; waste of, 372 ; which way
does it go?, 373 ; conditions of thick-
ness, 398 ; measurements of thickness,
400; effect of fog on, 418; specula-
tions as to its outlet, 419 ; renewed
movement of, 473; hardness of , 508 ;
dreariness of ice scenery, 539; paleo-
crvstic, 614, 619; needle, 633.

Indian summer, 445.

Irwin, Governor, 76.

Italians as Arctic sailors, 47.

Iversen, Nelse, on the borders of insan-
ity, 374 ; improved condition of, 391.

Jackson, J. P., special correspondent of
the New York Herald, 848 ; visits the
tomb of Capt. De Long, 862.

Japan current, the, 48 ; supposed to
carry coral into the Arctic ocean,
148.

Jeannette, the, formerly the Pandora,
48 ; made ready for sea, 51 ; the na-
ture of the repairs and strengthening
of, 60, 61 ; put in commission, 70 ; de-
parture from San Francisco, 76 ; ar-
rival at Ounalaska Island, 83 ; at St.
Michael's, 89 ; at St. Lawrence Bay,
97; at Cape Serdze Kamen, 106;
makes Herald Island, 114; jammed
in the ice, 119 ; made ready for win-
tering in the ice, 126; her steadiness
in the ice, 153; a beautiful spectacle
when covered with ice, 161 ; her peril
from grinding ice, 168; breaks adrift
from the floe, 180; moves through a
canal-like opening, 182; again closed
in, 184; appearance in the moonlight,
1 89 ; subjected to terrible pressure,
218; springs a leak, 219; one effect
of the pressure, 233 ; careful examina-
tion of, 428 ; on an even keel again
for a short time, 441 ; the ice opens
about her, leaving her free, 571 ;
again under pressure, 573 ; breaking
in two, 574; abandoned, 577; sinks,
578 ; finding of the court of inquiry
regarding, 868.

Jeannette Island, first view of, 544 ; the
pleasure which it afforded, 545.

Jensen the Dane, at Tessiussak, 16, 27,
28.

Juniata, Little, cruise of, 15.

Kaack, on the sick list, 422 ; his dis-
charge, 465 ; a new accident, 467.

INDEX.

Kamtchatka, 100.

Kas Karta, 840.

Kellett H., Captain, 114.

Kellett Land, 90, 149.

Ketchum, Mr., 95.

King-, S. A., the aeronaut, and his views,
50.

King, William, extra seaman on the
Little Juniata, 14.

Kingitok, 15.

Kite-flying by Mr. Chipp and the China-
men, 526, 528.

Koliutchin Bay, 99, 109.

Koteluoi Island, 728 ; hut on, 739.

Kuehne, violin solo of, 208.

Ku Mark Surka, reached by Ninde-
mann and Noros, 819; visited by Mr.
Melville, 839-843, 846.

Knrosiwo current, the, 48, 148, 373.

Kusmah, a Russian exile, meets Ninde-
mann and Noros, 822 ; is sent to Bu-
lun by Mr. Melville, 83 i; returns
with tidings, 835.

Lancaster, U. S. S., Geo. W. De L.
ordered to, 8.

Land, first sight of new, 544.

Laundry, an Arctic, 394.

Lauterbach, John, on the sick list, 551.

Lead-poisoning from tomato cans, 558.

Leak discovered, 219 ; efforts made to
stop it, 220-230; diminution, 234,
235 ; its locality partly determined,
248 ; puzzle concerning, 301 ; calcu-
lation of its amount, 335 ; decrease of,
392.

Lemly, Master Samuel C, judge advo-
cate of court of inquiry, 865.

Lena Delta, character of the, 801, 802,
859.

Liebig's extract, value of in the Aretic,
622 ; the last in use, 744.

Lime-juice, 189, 190, 321 ; last issue of,
724.

Lisbon, G. W. De L.'s first and only ap-
pearance in the opera at, 38 ; his cir-
cus feat there, 39.

Loft us, Lord, 394.

Lunar halos, evidence of ice openings,
236.

Lutke's Island, 101.

Lynghe, Jacob, an Esquimaux inter-
preter and coast pilot on the Little
Juniata, 15.

McClintock, Admiral, 44.

M'cNair, Commander Frederic V., mem-
ber of court of inquiry, 865.

Magnetic observations, impossibility of
securing accurate, 357.

Maher. .Martin T., seaman on the Little
Juniata, 14.

Mare Island Navy Yard, 54.

Markham, Captain, on G. W. De L.'s
boat journey, 32 ; his views regarding
balloons, 49 ; his difficulty in travel-
ling over ice, 350.

Mat Vai, 839 ; a depot of supplies, 851,
853, 855 ; camp there, 859.

May, Sidney II., accompanies G. W. Ue
L., on the Little Juniata, 14 ; has diffi-
culty in lighting a match, 25.

Medical examinations, 159; results of,
165, 166, 241,308.

Meerschaum pipe lost and found, 366.

Melville, George W., chief engineer of
the Jeanuette, 64 ; his qualities, 80,
91 ; on a hunting party, 94 ; put in
charge of the coal, 133; gets the
steam-pump ready, 219; his valuable
services, 223 ; his ceaseless activity,
224 ; his inventiveness, 235 ; con-
structs a windmill, 311; the credit
which it reflects on him, 367 ; heads
a party to visit Henrietta Island, 555 ;
equipment furnished, 556 ; directions
given. 557 ; his experience at the isl-
and, 565 ; in command of the whale-
boat, 694 ; instructions given him by
G. W. De L., 696 ; is separated with
his party from the rest, 828 ; weathers
the gale', 829 ; makes land, 830 ; starts
for Bulun, 831 ; is detained at Geco-
movialocke, 832; prepares dispatches,
833 ; sends Kusmah to Bulun, 834 ;
receives word of Nindemann and No-
ros, 835 ; goes alone to Bulun, 836 ;
starts north in search of Captain De
Long and his party, 838 ; his expe-
rience on the first search, 839-846;
goes to Yakutsk, 847 ; makes prepa-
rations for final search, 850; returns
to Bulun, 851 ; goes to Mat Vai and
proceeds to search, 853 ; discovers the
bodies, 855 ; finds a place for burial,
857 ; sends out parties in search of
Lieut. Chipp and party, 860 ; returns
to Yakutsk, 862 ; returns to the
United States, 864 ; praised by court
of inquiry, 869 ; his memoranda of
des'gn for construction and fitting of
a vessel for Arctic exploration, 880.

Melville Bay, 13, 18; its dangers, 32.

Meteorological instruments, moved from
ice to ship, 166 ; back to the ice again,
172 ; once more to the ship, 173.

Miller, Capt. Joseph N., member of
court of inquiry, 863.

Miller, General, of the Alaska Company,
88, 103.

Minstrel entertainment, Christmas eve,
4'.»5 ; New Year's eve, 498.

Moisture between decks, 154, 158, 191,

INDEX.

909

197, 198, 210, 261, 283, 295, 311, 325;

absence of, 346, 452, 489.
Monotony of life in the Arctic, 194, 267,

383, 448, 466, 480, 490.
Monterey, Navy Yard tug, 76.
Moon, eclipse of, 205 ; great refraction

of, 449 ; eclipse of, auuoted, 493.
Moonlight effects; 189.
Morison, J. C, 76.
Morse, Dr., of the Nares expedition, on

te>ts of ice for drinking, 252.
Mosquitoes at Ounalaska Island, 85 ;

found on the ice, 382.
Much, George W., 58.
Murres found on Bennett Island, 680.
Muster roll of officers and men, 875.

Nares, Sir George, 32.

Near-sightedness corrected by horse-
hair goggles, 269.

Needle-ice, 633.

Nelson, Mr., signal corps agent, 91, 95,
96.

Newcoinb, Raymond L., naturalist of
the Jeaunette, 67 ; his relations to the
officers, 67 ; on the voyage to the
north, 78; his qualities," 80 ; collects
at St. Lawrence Bay, 101 ; adds ivory
gulls to his collection, 129; and a
Ross's gull, 151 ; finds mosquitoes,
382.

Newman, Mr., agent at St. Michael's,
90 ; his generosity, 94, 95 ; bills the
expedition good-by, 96 ; an extem-
poraneous doctor, 522.

New Siberian Islands, acts as a break-
water, 539; sighted, 720; landed on,

• 723.

New York, college of the city of, 2.

Niudemann, one of the Polaris seamen,
12 ; makes crutches for G. W. De L.,
38; on watch, i* ■ his qualities,
81; his previous experience, 199;
works in the fore peak stopping the
leak, 220 ; his tirelessness, 225 ; his
great strength, 225-229 ; work done
by, 234 ; is sent forward in company
with Noros by the captain for relief,
795 ; instructions given by Capt. De
Long, 802 ; the start, 803 ; loses a
deer, 804 ; the first camp, 805 ; the
difficulties of the march, 80(5 ; the two
ero>ses, 809 ; camp in a crevice, 810 ;
the camp fire seen by Capt. De Long,
811 ; crossing the river, 812; a snow
camp, 813; exhaustion, 814; shelter
in lately occupied huts, 815; a native
appears, 816; carried to the native's
camp, 817; attempt to explain the
situation of the party, 818 ; Kit Mark
Surka, 819 ; a pantomine, 820 ; in-
terview with Kusmah, 822; a dis-

patch, 823 ; discovered by Mr. Mel-
ville, 824 ; remains at Bulun while
.Mr. Melville goes north, 838; re-
tained to assist in final search, 846 ;
returns to Bulun from Yakutsk, 851 ;
assists in the search, 853 ; helps bury
the dead, 860; goes on the search for
Lieut. Chipp and party, 861 ; returns
to the United States, 863 ; recom-
mended by court of inquiry, 868.

Nischneudinsk, 848.

Nordenskjold, Professor A. E., Arctic
voyager, 45 ; to be looked for by the
Jeaunette, 71 ; no news of at Ounalas-
ka, 85, 86 ; nor at St. Michael's, 90 ;
reported by Chief George, 100, 102;
conclusive evidence concerning, found
at Cape Serdze Kamen, 108.

Nordquist, Lieut., 100.

Noros, See Nindemann; accompanies
Mr. Jackson, 848, 849 ; returns to
United States, 863.

Oaket, John, G. W. De L., in law
office of, 4.

Olekmn, 863.

Oogook, an, 409.

Ounalaska, Alaska, 82, 83 ; marriage
ceremonies at, 85 ; imperfect condi-
tion of the charts of, 87.

Osoktok, 842.

Paleocrystic ice, 614, 619.

Pandora, the, a steamer bought for the
Arctic Expedition, 44 ; renamed the
Jeaunette, 48.

Papers in provision packages, 605.

Paraselene, 157, 207.

Parhelion, a, 296, 314.

Patterson, Captain, 67.

Peaked Hill, 20.

Pemmican, preference given to Ameri-
can over English, 323.

Petermann, Dr., views of regarding
Polar exploration, 47 ; his supposi-
tion regarding Wrangel Land, 49.

Pie served out to the dogs, 543.

Polaris, misfortunes of the, 12, 14 ; a bit
of her flag for the North Pole, 70.

Porter, value of, in the Arctic, 325.

Potatoes, discovery of, 284.

Prince, the adventures of, 536, 537, 539.

Propeller, means taken to get a sight of
the, 428 ; its good condition, 430.

Qui xx, Vicar General, interest of in G.

W. De L., 5.
Qu Vina, 843, 844.

Rodger, Admiral John, 66.
Rodgers, U. S. S., sent in search of the
Jeaunette, 862.

910

INDEX.

Ross's gulls, 151, 385, 387, 390.

Routine, daily, 145 ; in winter months,
160; change of, for spring and sum-
mer, 305.

Rush, revenue cutter, 83, 86.

Sabine Islands, 20.

Sagastyr, where was it?, 773, 774, 782;
all hope of it given up, 790.

St. George, schooner, 83.

St. Lawrence Bay, 85 ; character of the
scenery of, 99.

St. Mary's, School-ship, G. W. De L.
ordered to, 43 ; incident on, 40 ; how
G. W. De L was regarded by the boys,
41.

St. Michael's, Alaska, 83; reached by
the Jeaimette, 89; its miserable char-
acter, 90.

St. Raul's Island, S3, 84.

Sannikov, of Hedenstrom's expedition,
740.

Salt beef, experiments in curing, 278 ;
quality of, 325.

Schuetze, Master W. H., with Lieut.
Harber, 848.

Scurvy, and its connection with the use
of salt water, 290, 291 ; freedom from,
of the crew of the Jeannette, 321 ;
causes of its absence, 337 ; special
signs of its absence, 465.

Seals, vulnerable in bones, 135; steady
provision, 155, 157, 159 ; watching for,
268 ; carnivorous, 327 ; success in
catching, 385 ; time of shedding coat,
404, 427 ; delicious article of diet,
643.

Seddon, Cape. 18.

Semenovski Island, lauded on, 744 ; de-
posit left on it, 747 ; proposal to visit,
863.

Sengstaecke, Captain, 105, 107.

Serdze Kamen, Cape, 102; made by
the Jeannette, 105; description of,
106.

Sewell Rump, the, 234, 235, 240, 241,
245.

Shackelton, Cape, 15. 17, 19, 27, 28.

Sharvell, detects leak in ship, 219; dis-
turbance at the appearance of ice,
298.

Shipping articles, 873.

Sibiriakoff, Mr., 105, 107.

Silence of the Arctic, 396.

Sister (ianach, 843.

Smith Sound as a route to the Pole, 45.

Snellen type-tests, 195, 200, 201.

Snow crystals, remarks of Dr. Ambler
on, 887.

Snow-spectacles, difficulty in securing
constant use of, 339 ; g'eneral use of,
360.

Snow-storm, a, and its effects, 449, 450.

Snuffy, a dog, 328 ; his death, 438.

Spitzbergen route to the Role, 48.

Spring in the Arctic, 280.

Steam-cutter's engine, attempt to use it
to work the bilge-pump, 243.

Starr, Edward, case of discipline with,
641.

Steward, Chinese on the Jeannette,
traits of, 81; illness of, 157; calm-
ness and contentment of, 271.

Stove, an economical, for heating and
distilling, 337.

Street, Richard, boatswain's mate on
the Little Juniata,. 14.

Stringham, Admiral, and the reasona-
ble midshipman, 8.

Sukkertoppen, Greenland, 12.

Sun, the, at midnight, 334 ; extraordi-
nary refraction of, 485.

Surgeon, letter of G. W. De L. regard-
ing the post of, 64.

Swedes as Arctic sailors, 48.

Sweetman, Alfred, carpenter, employed
by Mr. Bennett and transferred to the
Jeannette, 53; his character, 81 ; on
New Year's evening, 207 ; work done
by him, 225, 234,' 235; his valuable
services, 437 ; recommended for a
medal of honor, 868.

Tchernieff, Governor of Yakutsk, 848.

Tease, the, death of, 413.

Tegetthof, the, 126, 174.

Temple, Commodore Wm. G., president

of court of inquiry, 863.
Tessiussak, 15; character of the place,

16, 27.
Thermometers, mercurial and spirit, 273.
Thompson, R. W., Secretary of the Navy,

dealings of with G. W. De L , 56 ; his

comments on the commander, 57 ; his

orders for the expedition, 71 ; letter

to from G. W. De L, 86.
Tide-measurements at Bennett Island,

682, 889.
Tigress, U. S. S., 13, 14, 26, 31.
Tiller-room, the, 315.
Tobacco, absence of, regretted, 717.
Tuscarora, U. S. Steamer, 76.
Two Crosses, the, 809, 839.
Tyson, Mate of the Polaris, 1 2.

Upernavik, Greenland, 12, 13, 14, 15,
35.

Vandalta, U. S. Steamer, 52.
Ventilation on ship-board, 150, 483.
Verkeransk, 847.
Vincennes, point reached by the, 123.

Wadleigh, Commander Geo. II., 866.

INDEX.

911

Walakatina river, 740.

Walker Cape, 19.

Walker, Dr., on presence of salt in drink-
ing water, 289, 290.

Walrusses, shot by Mr. Newcomb and
Alexey, 138; three shot and lost,
160; the most vulnerable point in,
327.

Washington, Rev. George, 10.

Washington's birthday observed, 263.

Wassilewski Island, 744.

Watch, novel method of calling the,
673.

Water for drinking, the question of,
124; helped by charcoal, 128; melted
snow used for, 130; noes scraped,
184 ; distilling for, 185 ; tests of, 251 ;
Dr. Kane's views on, 288, 289 ; connec-
tion of scurvy with, 290 ; no snow to be
found fit for* 333 ; difficulty in guard-
ing against carelessness among sea-
men, 338 ; taken from surface ice, 393 ;
tests of the experiment, 395 ; the tank
filled, 396 ; results of experience in us-
ing sea-water ice, 423 ; the peril attach-
ing to its use, 425 ; specimens of the
water, 517; difficulties in securing
proper water on the march over the
ice, 5S0, 616; experiments of Dr.
Ambler concerning, 878.

Wedge Island, 17.

Welles, Gideon, interview of G. W. de
L. with, 6.

Wells, Captain, of the Shenandoah,

furnishes American territory to a
wedding-party, 11.

Weyprecht, Lieut., 126, 251; his com-
ment on ice and the Gulf-stream, 373.

Whales, absence of, 459.

Wilcox Head, 17, 18.

Windmill planned for running pumps,
311; progress of construction, 314;
mounted on the ice, 320 ; mounted on
the ship, 326 ; set to work, 327 ; sup-
plied with tin fans, 331 ; new arrange-
ment of, 351 ; does all the pumping,
354 ; meets with an accident, 357 ; is
perfected, 365 ; adaptability to differ-
ent velocities, 367.

Wood, Benjamin, helps G. W. dc L. to
an appointment in the naval academy,
5 ; employs him as letter-writter, 6.

Wotton, Emma J., 11.

Wrangel Land, supposed extent of, 48,
49; sighted by Captain De Long, and
believed to be an island, 160 ; in sight
again, 172, 174; distance measured
from, 217; reappears, 231, 242; vol-
cano on, 286.

Yakutsk, 838, 847, 849, 850, 851. 862,
863, 864.

York, Cape, 20, 21, 22, 26, 35.

Young, Sir Allen William, owner of the
Pandora, the vessel bought by Mr.
Bennett for the Arctic expedition, 44;
his reluctance to part with the steam-
er, 45.