4^

/^

r

_^

4

//^ ^

VOYAGE

AND

TRAVELS

In the LEVANT

In the Years 1749, fo, 51, 52*

V O Y A G E S

AND

TRAVELS

In the LEVANT;
In the Years 1749, 50, 51, 52.

CONTAINING

Obfervatlons in Natural Hiftory, Phyfick,
Agriculture, and Commerce :

PARTICULARLY

On the Holy Land, and the Natural Hiflory of the

Sc RIPTURE S.

Written originally in the Swediih Language,

By the late Frederick HasselquistTM. D.

Fellow of the Royal Societies of Upsal and Stockholm.

Publilhed, by Order of her prefent Majefty the Queen of Siueden
By CHARLES LINN.EUS, ^

Phylician to the King of Sweden, Profeffor of Botany at Upfal,
and Member of all the Learned Societies in Europe.

LONDON,

Printed for L. Davis and C. Reymers, oppofite Gray's-Inn-
Gate, Holborn, Printers to the Royal Society.

MDCCLXVL

•:0J -gan .

"■•-^ fi 'gnibnft .

. .Yio:friH f':

ADVERTISEMENT.

A Few Copies of Dr. Hasselquist's
Travels into the Holy Land, &c, in the
Swedilh Language, having found their Way
into this Kingdom, AppHcation v/as made
to an ingenious Gentleman, who had lived
fome Time in ^^.v^den, to tranJlate them
into Englifi. An Opportunity of furnii'hing
the Learned of this Country with fo curious
a Work, was not difpleafmg to Orje, who had
been well acquainted with the Merits and
Abilities of the Author, being himfelf a Pu-
pil of the celebrated Dr. Linnaeus. He ac-
cordingly undertook, and before his Depar-
ture from London finilhed, the followins:
Tranflation ; which indeed fuffers in point of
Stile, from the Tranflator's not being a Native
of England, and from his adhering too
clofely to the Idiom of the Swedhh Language:
but it is hoped that when the candid Reader
confiders the great Difficulty of finding a Per-
fon Tufficiently verfed in Natural Hiftory, and
the Swedifh Language, and at the fame
time wilHng to undertake fuch a Tafk, he
will rather forgive Imperfedions, than wifli
to have deprived the Republic of Letters of
fo agreeable an Acquifition.

ERRATA.

For

Read

Fage 17, Sec.

raturaliiu

?ic:fU'al Cmiofitles,,

29 line

'9

not.

//fa'.

32

18

was.

as.

77

i?

February,

September.

73

35

Officers,

Officers blades.

ro9

4

even.

ever.

I lO

21

unfit,

only fit.

132

I

1 2 th of April,

gth tf April.

1^-7

2

here againji the Be

1S5

2

Mahhalia,

Maimnalia.

593

10

Pirus,

Picus.

594

8

Nuonida,

Numic/a.

200

8

Pirus,

Picus.

222

17

fcolubrina.

coluhrina.

225

4

Echencis

Echeneis.

251

20

veticum.

(reticufn.

274

27

Aga-onyx

Jgat ■ cnyx.

^17

Ichneumon

Ichneumon.

' 441-

7

Crab-Treee,

Caroh-Tree,

450

20

Mofes,

Moffes.

1S2

J?

a fruit.

a fruitfuL

C O N T E N TS.

VOYAGE to Smyrna. Page I

Travels in Natolia to Magnefia, 33

Alexandria. 5 2

Rofetta. 54

From Cairo to the Pyramids. 66

Defcription of the Mecca Caravan. 77

The Sepulchres of the Mummies, ^4.

Damiata. 108

The Holy Land. 116

Jerufalem. 120

Jericho. 125

Bethlehem. ^43
Paleftine, Syria, Nazareth, Tyre, Sidon, &c, 151

Voyage to Cyprus. 169

Voyage to Rhodes, Chio and Smyrna. 17^

Natural Curiofities,

Quadrupeds. 183
Birds. - 193

Amphibia, 214

Fifh. 223

Infers. 228

Worms. 239

Plants. 240

Stones. 273

Natural Hiflory of Paleffine. 276
Plants, Animals, &c. mentioned in the Scriptures. 286

Materia Medica. 293

Difeafes and their Remedies. 380

Obfervations on Commerce. 395

The Author's Letters to Dr. Linnseus. 403
The Map to face the Title.

Books printed for L. Davis and C. R e y m e A s'.

THE Antiquities of Egypt and Nueia ; engraved by
the famous Mark Tufcher, of Nurenburg, from near
200 Defign'^,- accurately takfen on the Spot, by Capr. Norden,
F. R. S. elegantly printed on a Writing Royal Paper, 2 vol.
Folio, Price bound 4I. 4s.

_ Capt. Norden's Travels in Egypt and Nubia, printed in one
Volume Oftavo, with Platesy 6s.

The Natural Hiftory of Norway, by the Right Rev. E. Porr-
toppidan, BiHiop of Bergen ; with 28 Copper-plates, Folio,
Ptice bound, il. is.

Mr. Bingham's Antiquities of the Chrifiian Church, in
Twenty-three Books ; together with his other Pieces. In 2 voh.
Folio, iiluftrared with Maps, &c. Price i8s. bound.

The Hillory of England ; as it relates to Religion and the
Church. By F. Warner, D. D. Reaor of Queen Hithe, London,
and of Barnes in Surry. 2 vols. Folio, pr. 2I. 2s.

An Ecclefiaftical Hiftory ; from the Birtl\ of Chrift, to the
prefent Time. Written originally in French, by Mr Formey,
Secretary to the Accademy of Sciences at Berlin. To which is
added, an Appendix, giving an Account of the People called
Methodifls. 2 vols, price bound, los.

A Key to the NewTeftament; giving an Account of the feveral
Books, their Contents, their Authors, and the Times, Places,
and Occafions, on which ihey were refpe£livel/ written. V/ith
an Introduction, c'oneerhing the Jewifh Sedts or Parties alluded
to in the Gofpels. Price zs.' 6d. bound.

The Beauties of England, comprehended in a pocket volume :
Giving a fuccindl Defcription of the Antiquities of this Kingdom;
the Seats of the Nobility and Gentry; ti.e Remains of Palaces,
Monalleries, Camps, and Caftles ; the Market- towns. Cities, Sec.
the two Univerfities ; London and WeftmiDfter. Inrended as a
Travelling Pocket Companion, pointing out whatever u curious
in Art and Nature. Price bound 3s.

A Voyage to South America, defcribing at large the Spanifh
Cities, Towns, and Provinces on that Continent, with their Flif-
tory, natural, commercial, &c. by George Juan and Ant. de
Ulioa, F. R. S. &c. 2 vol. Svo. with Plates, price bound 1 2s.

Travels through part of Europe, Afia Minor, Syria, PaleiHne,
Mount Sinai, &c. by the Hon. Mr. Van l^gmonci and Profcflbr
lleyman, 2 vol. Svo. with Plates, price bound los.

Dr. Kjempfer's Hillory of Japan and Siam, natural and civil,
with 45 Copper-plates, 2 vol.-. Folio, price bound il. los.

Ant.quitates Afiaticffi, per Edm. Chilhull, Folio, Royal Paper,
price boimd il. is.

Mr Chifhul's Travels in Turkey, with a Preface by Dr.
Mead, Fol:o, prict bound 1 5s.

SOME

A G C O U N T

O F

Dr. HASSELQ^IST,

Written by

CHARLES LINN^US, M. D.

FREDERICK HafTelquift was born the third
of January 1722, at Toernvalla in Eaft
Gothia. His father Andrew HalTelquiftj was curate
there, and had the leaft income of any clergyman
in the diocefe. He died during the minority of
his fon, in indigent circumftances ; his mother
Maria Helena Pontin, being weak both in body
and mind, was put into the infirmary at Vad-
ftena. This Frederick therefore would have been
unnoticed in life, if his uncle, the Rev. Mr. Pontin,
had not taken cpmpafTionon him.j and kept him wiih
his children at the fchool in Linkceping -, but he
was foon deprived of this Benefaflor, and obliged
to fupport himfelf by teaching young children,
until he was of age to go to the Univeriity.

In the year 1741, he came to the Univerfity of
Upfala, where he was obliged to content himfelf
with inftru6ling others for trifling gratifications,
but by this had the advantage of living conftantly
at the Univerfity, and daily hearing the ledures
of the Profeflbrs. His inclination v;as immediate-
ly bent for Phyfic, and Natural Hiftory foon be-
came his favourite Hudy j he had alio fome talents

A for

ii SOME ACCOUNT OF

for Poetry. The Faculty perceived the fervour
with which our youth ftudied thofe Sciences his
inclination led him to, and therefore in 1746 gave
him a royal ftipend. In 1747, he gave the firft
proof of the proficiency he had made in his ftudies,
in his Differtation on the Virtues of Plants, which
he wrote well, and defended flrenuoufly. In one
of my botanical leftures in the fame year, I enu-
merated the countries of which we knew the Na-
tural Hiftory, and thofe of which we are ignorant.
Amongft the latter was Paleftine ; with this wc
were lefs acquainted than with the remoteft parts
of India-, and though the Natural Hiftory of this
remarkable country was the moft neceffary for Di-
vines, and Writers on the Scriptures, who have ufed
their greateft endeavours to know the animals
therein mentioned, yet they could not, with any
degree of certainty, determine which they were,
before fome one had been there, and informed
himfelf of the Natural Hiftory of the place.
This is the more furprizing, as Botany is much
indebted to feveral induftrlous Divines, who
have ftridly examined the plants of other coun-
tries •, but though many of the Romifti clergy
travel to Paleftine every year, not one has ever
troubled himfelf upon this fubjeft. Hafielquift
was very defirous of being the firft who fhould in-
form the Public of the Natural Hiftory of Pa-
leftine, and was determined to accomplifli it.
He imparted his defign to me foon after, but,
furprized at his enterprifing fpirit, I reprefented
to hirn the length of the way, the great diffi-
culties, the many dangers, and the very confi-
derable expences which would attend fuch an un-
dertaking, and laftly, his indifferent ftate of health,
in particular his weak lungs, as he was fub-

jed

Dr. H as SEL Q^U 1ST. iii

jed to fpitting of blood : bur he urged it the
more, as weak lungs can only be cured by travel-
ling and change of climate, and was enough de-
termined in his refolution, to fay, he would ra-
rather walk all the way, than have his purpofes
croffed. His mind was fixed on the voyage ; he
therefore folHcited for fome of the legacies left by
perfons of diftinftion for thofe who intend to tra-
vel, but fortune did not favour him in this attempt.
He prevailed on his countrymen to contribute
fomething towards this journey •, when he had
got this, he follicited the Faculty of Phyficians
and they gave him two of the King's ftipends, the
Faculty of Civilians gave one, foon after the Phi-
lofophic, and at length the Theologic, gave him
each a ftipend. But how little was this propor-
tioned to fuch an expenfive undertaking Haf-
felquift in the mean time was preparing : he
began to fludy the Arabian and other eaftern lan-
guages •, and that this enterprize might not ob-
Itrucl his academical ftudies and defigns, he gave
the ufual fpecimens of his abihties, viz. he was
examined, he wrote, and defended his Differration,
for the Degree, read Lectures, &c. that he might,
though abfent, receive thofe honours in Phyfic,
which a youth of his merit and learning had a
right to claim ; therefore the degree of Doftor of
Phyfic was conferred on him on the 8th of March
1 75 1, at which time he was in Cairo. The Fa-
culty was well, acquainted with his induftry and
narrow circumftances, and therefore gave him
gratis all Lectures, Examinations, Prsfidii and
the Promotion.

In the fpring 1749, Hafielquift already a licen-
tiate went to Stockholm, having firft finifiied hig
academical ftudies, where he read Ltdures on Bo-

A 2 tany

IV SOME ACCOUNT OF

tany during the fummer, and got the good graces
of every lover and patron of this Science. He pre-
pared himfelf every day for his Voyage, and the
Levant Company offered him a free paflage to
Smyrna.

The 7th of Auguft he went on board, and ar-
rived at Smyrna on the 26th of November. It
was his good fortune to find Mr. Andrew Ryde-
lius, Conful General from Sweden, at Smyrna,
who was his countryman and relation, and re-
ceived him with paternal kindnefs, and forwarded
his undertaking by every means in his power. He
llaid in Smyrna all the winter, and beheld all the
produdions of nature in that temperate chmate.
In March 1750, he travelled to Magnejia in Na-
tolia^ viewed mount Sipylus^ and returned again
to the worthy Rydelius in Smyrna.

In the beginning of May 1750 he left Smyrna,
travelled by way of Alexandria and Rofetta, arriv-
ed, in July, at Cairo, the capital of Egypt ; here he
remained near a year, and had the befl op-
portunities of informing himfelf of the fingu-
larity of the climate for which it has always
been famous. Here he viewed the Pyramids,
one of the feven wonders of the world -, de-
fcended into the fepulchres of the Mummies; ob-
ferved the ftrange rifing and falling of the Nile;
colleded the fcarcefl produ£bions of Nature ; and
this he did with more attention, than any one
had done before him. During this time he cor-
refponded diligently with his friends in Sweden,
and filled his letters with curious Experiments
and Obfervations, which were inferted in the
papers printed twice a week in Stockholm under
the tide of Literary News, and all who read them,
were prepofTefTed in favour of this attentive tra-
veller. Our HalTelquift therefore was not forgot

in

Dr: HASSELaUIST. v

in his own country. The Faculty of Phyficians
propofed him as Profeflbr extraordinary of Phyfic
to the vacant place, and the Royal Academies at
Upfala and Stockholm chofe him a Member of
their Societies ; he made himfelf worthy of thefe
honours, by the excellent Obfervations, which he
fent to both Societies, which are printed in their
Tranfadlions. In thofe of Upfala for the year 1750,
are inferted his Obfervations and Treatifes on the
Egyptian Acacia, which affords the Gum Arabic,
page 9. The Camel-Beer,^. 15. The Jumping
Moufe, p. 17. Tht Oriental Thrujh., p. 2:. The
Coote, p. 22. The Viper of the Shops, p. 24. The
horned Viper, p. 27. The horned Snake., p. 28.
The Seine, p. 30, and in the tranfadions of Stock-
holm for I j^o. The Endemical Difeafe of Aleppo,
p. 136. 1751. The H^w/^, p. 196. The i^it^d.-
Tuition of Sal Ammoniac, p. 259. 1752. The Locujis,
being ufed for food in Arabia, p. 76. The moun-
tain Rat, p. 123. It was furprifing to fee how
anxious the nation was to fupport Dr. HafTelquift,
when he lived in an expenfive place, where he
could not advance a ftep without confiderable
charges, and wanted money to accomplifli his de-
fign. The lovers of Science contributed feveral
times, and raifed in a very fhort time about one
hundred and ninety pounds ; an inflance, fcarcely
to be met with amongft the raoft opulent nations.
Dr. Hasselquist at length left Cairo in
March 1751, and went over Damiata, Jaffa, and
the Holy Land, Hence he travelled to Jerufalem
with the Pilgrims who intended to celebrate their
Eafter there-, and thence he went X.Q Jericho, J or dan,
Bethlehem, Acra, Nazareth, 'Tiberias, Cana, Galilee,
Tyre, Sidon ; thence he failed over to Cyprus, Rhodes,
Cbio, and arrived fafe at Smyrna, laden with an

incr%

vl SOME ACCOUNT OF

incredible quantity of curiofities collefted in the
three kingdoms of Nature, being the produdions
of the Eaft, Egypt and Paleftine.

Nothing now remained but to wait for a pro-
per opportunity of returning home with his riches ;
but his ftrength was fpent by the difficulties he had
undergone in his travels, as well as by the violent
heat of the climate in Paleftine •, and whilft he in-
tended to recover it by tarrying in Smyrna, the
ferpent which he had long harboured in his bofom
awoke, and a confuming hedtic fever with weak-
nefs, reftleflhefs, fpitting of blood and fhortnefs of
breath, confined him to his bed, but he ftill pof-
feffed that hope, which is peculiar to thofe in his
condition. He defired to be removed out of the
city into the country, to enjoy the free air, and ufe
milk as his only refource, which was accordingly
done ; but notwithftanding all this, our beloved
Dr. Hafielquift wafted away daily like a lamp
■whofe oil is fpent, and departed this life^ the
9th of February 1752, to the inexpreiTible grief of
all who knew him.

We were immediately informed of his death by
Mr. Rydelius, whofe love for Hafielquift was not
to be extinguifiied by his departure •, this gentle-
man alfo added to our forrow by giving us to un-
derftand, that the late Dr. Hafifelquift, had con-
tradled a debt of 350/. on his travels, and that his
creditors had at the time of his death taken pof-
fefllon of all his colletflions of natural curiofities,
obfervations and manufcripts, v*hich they would
not part with, until their demands were fatisfied.
Thus did we lofe our v/crthy and dear country-
man ; his name was in the like danger •, and his la-
bours were threatened with deftruftion by the
hands of Barbarians. We knew no means of col-

leding

Dr. H a S S E L QJJ I S T. vii

letting on a fudden fuch a fum of money, but
the worthy Dr. Bseck, firft Phyfician to the Queen
of Sweden, who has always loved the Sciences,
and patronized learned men, undertook to pre-
fent thefe unhappy circumftances to her Majefty
Queen Louisa Ulrica, who gracioufly prote6ls
Science, and is pofleffed of a moft refined tafte
for the produdions of Nature. Her iMajefty im-
mediately refolved to pay the debt out of her own
purfe, and redeem the Colle6tion, without which
the Public would very late, if ever, have enjoyed
this Work. The next year all thefe treafures ar-
rived fafe and well preferved at her Majefty's
palace of Drottningholm^ at which time I was
ordered to attend, and was aftonifhed at the
fight of fo many unheard of curiolities. The col-
lections of dried plants from Natolia, Egypt, Pa-
leftine, Cyprus, &c. all the Stones and forts of
earth from fo many remarkable places in Egypt
and the Holy Land ; the many rare FiJJjes out of
the Nile, and poifcnous Serpents from Egypt, the
rare Infe^s^ the extenfive coUediions ot Oriental
Drugs, Arabian Manufcripts, Egyptian Mummies^
&c. could not but excite the admnration of the
beholder.

Last year Dr. Hafielquift's own original Ma-
nufcripts arrived, with the principal Obfervations
he had made. Her Majelly was moft gracioufly
pleafed to order me to arrange and publifh them
for the fatisfa6lion and advantage of mankind. I
have accordingly digefted the Work in the beft
manner 1 could, ranged every thing under its pro-
per Tribe ; added Names to plants and animals,
altered the Technical terms and manner of writing,
without changing in the ieaft the Author's meaning:
1 had the work corrected at the prefs, and myfelf in-

fpeded

viii SOME ACCOUNT, &c.

fpe6led its publication. I imagined it needlefs to
add Synonyms^ which would have fwelled the book j
efpecially as they may eafily be found in the tenth
edition of my Syftem of Nature, in which I have
introduced thefe names.

There is an incredible number of curiofities
from the three kingdoms of Nature in the Collec-
tion of our late Author, which have been incor-
porated with the cabinets of their Majefties, and are
already defcribed, and may foon be publillied with
pther wonderful produftions of Nature*.

Her Majefty has been pleafed to give me a
fpecimen of every plant, in which there were above
two, thefe I have defcribed in another Treatife, un-
der the title of Flora Palafiina ; and therefore think
it needlefs to enumerate them here, as I would not
infert any thing, which did not come from the
Author's pen. I fhall think myfelf happy, if I
have fulfilled her Majefty's command, and anfwer-
ed the expedlations of the Public.

* Thefe have been fince publiihed in Oftavo, under the
title of Mufaeum Reginae.

[ I ]

TRAVEL

T O

HE EAST.

AUGUST tKe 7th, 1749J 1 went on board
the lliip Ulrica, belonging to the Swediili
Levant company, which was now about
making the 8th voyage to Smyrna, under the com-
mand of Captain Ekeroth. We failed from Stock-
holm at ten o'clock, and came to Skaggeharan in the
evening, where we lay that night.

The next day we came to Diurhamn. The
wind was fbutherly, which obliged us to tack fre-
quently ; but the weather was very fine. Here we
lay wind-bound to the 13 th.

I HAVE always had a great inclination to botanize
on the fea coafl of Sweden, and now a fine oppor-
tunity offered ; but this opportunity proved inef-
feftual, as the hufbandmen had already cut down
the flowers of this fummer. I was neverthelefs in
hopes that the fliore would in fome meafure gra-
tify my curiofity, and therefore on the 12 th went on
an illandj but found nothing there except the Glaux

B raaritima

2 1:'RAVELS TO tHE EAST.

maritima, Or Sea Milk Wort, and Arenaria fd^
plaides, or Sea Chick Weed, which was already in
feed.

The rocks here feemed to be fplit by the waves
in large perpendicular clefts, which were filled up
tl'ith cleaf quartz, or cryftallirie matter, by whteh
one might plainly difcover traces of the generation
of this flone. The 1 3th, at two o'clock in the morn-
ing, we came to DalerOen', where We anchored, in
Order to fhew our pafs at the fort, and get cuftom-
houfe officers on board to vifit us. Both fides of the
harbour were built with fmall wooden-houfes, Ivhich
gave the place the appearance of a little town*
Thofe on one fide are called lutholmen and the
other Dalereon. The inhabitants of both places
are chiefly pilots and filhermen. They catch here,
fometimes in large quantities, a kind of fifli, called
by LinnseuSjCottus quadricornis (Four-horned Bull's
bead). The fituation of the place was very difa*
greeable, being furrounded with barren mountains
and fandy hills. I could not learn that they had
any other fign here of the change of the wind; but
when the fea fwells towards the fliore they are fure
of a northerly wind, which our pilots faid they knew
from long experience.

The i4?;h, we failed by a gentleman's feat called
Sandmar: here there is an elegant garden and a fine
view of the fea. On the 1 6th, we left the harbour
of Daleroe, and weighed anchor at five o'clock in
the morning, in hopes not to anchor again in the
Baltic, which happened luckily according to our
wiilies.

Land SORT was the lafl: land we faw on the
Stockholm coalf ; there is a light-houfe here for the
fervice of feamen. Our pilots left us here, and our
teamen took charge of the fliip. The Captain,
among other accounts he gave us of his travels, as we

were

t O S M Y R N a; 5

^'ere Vvralking the deck on the 17th, acquainted us,
that he had carried the famous King Theodore to
Holland. He was delivered to him near Corfica by
Captain Blix, a commander of a Swedifli man of
war, who had taken him under his protection, when
he fled from Corfica. Captain Ekeroth put him
in a Dutch fifliing boat in the Texel. His retinue
confided then of a footman and a cook. I relate
this circumftance for the fake of fome future Bio-
grapher, to whom it may happen to be unknown.

The high fandy mountains of the ifland of Goth-
land appeared to-day on our left, looking like {o
many great columns at a diflance. We could dif-
cover nothing from hence through our glalTes, but
the fleeple of a church *.

Charles's iflandswere in fight on the 1 8th, in the
forenoon. The mountains of limeftone on the fliore
ftood like high broken walls towards the fea. Both
iflands were fo barren, that we could only fee two
ilirubs on one of them. .

The 19th, we had CEland on our right.

About one o'clock on the 20th, a httle grey bird,
of the fparrow tribe, came flying clofe after our fliip.
The Captain faid immediately, that it fignified a
llorm. Half an hour had fcarcely paflTed, before we
had foil rong a gale, that the fea beat over our gunnel.
I have afterwards obferved feveral times, both in
the Baltick, the North and Spanifli feas, that as of-
ten as birds came on board, we had hard weather,
which induces me to believe that the Peteril (Pro-
cellaria) is not the only forerunner of bad weather.

The ifland Bornholm was the firfi: Danifli land we
faw on the 2ifl:. We had Scania on our flar-board,
and were in fight of both the whole day.

The 2 2d, we came near the fliore of Scania, and
in the evening were within a cannot fliot of Trsellc^
' Linnsei Iter Gothland. 282.

B 2 Wr

4 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

borg. The fields of Scania were covered with Iheav^^
of corn, and afforded the agreeable fight of a fertile
country.

We lay to all the night of the 23d within fight
of Scania, for fear of running a-ground near the
Sound in the night, and at day-break had two fine
views : one on fliore, of the white chalk mountains
of Seel and : the other at fea, of fome llijps which
had come up with us whilft we lay by in the night.
Drakoe is a handfome village, with a church to the
left. V/e hoifted our flag here, and got three Da-
iiifli pilots on board, who carried us paft Copen-
hagen for fix rixdollars. We faw that the road was
dangerous ; for a Dutch fliip had yefterday run
s-ground here in fine w'eather, and was now fur-
rounded with a number of fmall craft from Drakoe,
which were employeti in getting her off. We faw a
fine foreft of oak between this village and Copen-
hagen, where there is penalty on any one who at-
tempts to cut the timber. About noon. We were
within cannot fliot of Copenhagen, and could fee the
palace, fleer, arfenal, and fome fine churches. Here
the Danifli pilots left us, after they had truly fore-
told us fine weather^ We could fee the city of Malma^
with its churches, and large houfes from the ftarboard^
oppofite Copenhagen. A handfome beach wood came
in otir view, in which were fome fine houfes; this was
laid to be the royal Danilli deer park. The whole
coaff IVom Drakoe is very beautiful from the fea, and
Icems contrived by nature to refrefli and give plea-
fure to feamen, long ufed to the melancholy prof-
peel of nothing but fea and flvy. We faw Land-
fi. rona from the flarboard at tvvo o'clock, and went
quite near under Hven, which was entirely unin-
habited tovv-ards this fide. In the afternoon, we
came to an anchor in the road between Helfing-
borg and Helfingneur, to pay toll to the Danes.

liclfin?-

TO S M Y R N A, 5

Heifingneiir is a little town, the v/alis of the hoiifes '
are framed v/ith timber, and the void fpaces filled
up with either brick or clay, and near it lies the
fortrefs Cronenburg, which, from its outward ap-
pearance, feems fufficient for what it is intended, a
key to the Baltick.

I WENT up to town the 24th, where every thing
that can accommodate feafaring peo|:le is fold in fuch
plenty, that the town really merits the name of a
Mart for feamen.

We went early under fail the 2 6tb, and fleered
for Gottenburgh, where we were to take in fome
Eaft-India goods and carry them for the Levant com-
pany's account to Smyrna. Sullen was the lad hind
of Scania, about thirty Englifli miles from the Sound,
confifting of high hills, upon which there is a light-
houfe.

TuE 27th, I faw animals and vegetables, the like
pf which I had never before feen. The former were
Sea-nettles (Medufe), which, yeflerday and to-day,
(hone by thoufands in the fea, and in calm weather
and a ferene fky afford an agreeable appearance
from their fkining green colour. The latter were
fea weeds, called Fuci Veficulofus, Faftigiatus, Sac-
charinus, to which hurig a vail: number of the (luall-
eft fliells. We could fee the coail of Halland before
us. The 28th, early, we failed pafl the town and
fortrefs of V/arberg and Nidingen, which is the firil
iiland on the Gottenburgh coall, where there is a
ijght-houfe.

On the 29th, v/e knew we were not far from
Gottenburgh, by difcovering the iiland of Vinga and
its light-houfe, foon after which a pilot came on
board us.

VV £ filled pafl the fortrefs of Elffborg about
noon, and there came to an anchor. This fort ap-
peared to be in a good flate, and well fituated to
B 3 (;oranian4

6 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

command the harbour of Gottenburgh. The road»
without Gottenburgh, hath many httle rocks lying
clofe to one another ; fome of them being under
water, makes the navigation dangerous. The Swedifli
Eafl-India company's fliip Gottenburgh, was lod
three years ago in her voyage home, on one of them,
within the fort, which cohjfirms this account of them.
We faw Gottenburgh the 30th, which is known to be
a Ilrong and famous trading town, and the befl in
Sweden next to Stockholm. We had fix miles to row
from the fort to the town. The firfl; objefts that
prefented themfelves to our view in the harbour,
which is large and fafe, furrounded with high
mountains, were fpmt fmall men of war and fri-
gates ; farther up five Eafl-India fliips j then three
or four dock yards.

The faw mill is built on a rifmg ground, clofe by
the harbour ; it is furnifhed with many faws, which
are worked by the wind ; and is fo contrived, as to
raife the timber put pf the fea. We came out of the
large harbour, through a flood-gate, into a ditch or
walled canal, which runs through the town. In this lay
fmall craft, efpecially Dutch fmacks that were em-
ployed in exporting Eaft-India goods. The town is of
middling extent. The houfes are generally of wood,
fpme few of ftone. The buildings are very neat; they
are covered v/ith deals, which are painted yellow or
red : there are hnall narrow yards to each houfe,
which make the place dangerous in cafe of fire. The
court-houfe, flate houfe, and Eaft-India houfe, are
the largeft and handfomefl: buildings in the town.

Here I fortunately met with my relation Mr. Guf-
ftaviis Tollander, who had returned this fummer from
the Eaft-Indies : he was fo kind as to fliew me many
curious obfervations, which he had made during his
flay there, efpecially among the Chinefe. I viewed at-^
tentively the Chinefe weight, apd was informed, that

the

TO SMYRNA, 7

til e weight China was divided in i catche, which con-
tains 16 teel; I teel 10 mees; i mees locandrin; i can-
drin 10 caas. A catche is equal to i i-lb. A hundred
catche make 1421b. The common money weight
contains 50 teel in China, which make 3 catche and
2 teel. A Spanifh piece of eight contains 7 mees and
4 candrin. On comparing it with the medical weights,
J find that i ounce is equal to 8 mees.

I WAS not a little glad to meet two more perfon$
from the Eafl-Indies the ill of September. They
were clergymen, and had returned this year ; Mr.
Thoren in the fliip Freden, and Mr. Hiortberg in
the fliip Hoppet. They had both, befides the duty
of their office, purfued the fludy of natural hiftoiy,
agreeable to their inflruftions from the direftors
of the Eaft-India company, which they performed
with honour and applaufe. Mr. Hiortberg was
now bufy in finifliing his journal ; he could
draw, which made it an eafy matter for him to
adorn his book with the figures of what he had feen
in natural hiftory. He had in particular chofen
filjies, and hath made fome fine obfervations and
figures of them, but efpecially on the Hoimd-iifh
(Squalus Acanthis) Scomber Duftor, and R.smora
(Echeneis). He had likewife coliefted fome iniecls
and vermes. He promifed to prefent the whole to
j:he Royal Swediih Academy of Sciences. Mr. Tho-
ren has fhewn himfelf in botany a worthy difciple
of his mafter Dr. Linnaeus. His coUeilion of piiiatj
was faid to be very confiderabie, v*-hich he had 3.1-
ready delivered to Mr. Lagerflroera, who fent it to
Dr. Linnceus, by him to be made public, to ^he ho-
nour of the coli^ftor and pleafure of the lovers of
nature.

The 2d of September T faw feveral natural curi-
ofities from Eail-India and China, at Mr. Lager-
(Iroem's, one of the Dirciflors of the Eaft-India cora-

B 4 pany,

8 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

pany. This gentleman has for feveral years been
making colle6lions of natural curiofities. Halle
would not permit mc to fee more than a large col-
lection of fhells and handfome corals, efpecially one
that had a large piece of the balls left, which was
clay. This gentleman had got home, in the lalt
fhips, four gold filh in frefh water ; they were from
Canton, and quite lively. They eat wafers : the
manner of bringing this fifh to Europe is defcribe4
by Dr. Linnaeus, in the royal Swediili academy of
Sciences for 1746. A heifer, nine months old, from
China, which differed in nothing from our cows but
that flie feemed more lively and fprightly, as if ilie
had been bred up in the fields and in the open air,
and not confined in a narrow hut or a dark ftable,
which always give creatures a fad and poor appear-
ance. She was of a red brown, fat and merry, and
the voyage feemed to have had no bad effect on her,
A live plant of the Bamboo reed, fo much ufed by
the Chinefe; the item was an inch thick, articulated,
a fpan's length between the joints ; the leaves fword-
iliaped, the whole plant was two feet high. Mr. Ar-
vidfon, the librarian, {hewed me the library of the
college. Seba's excellent book was the dearefl and
bell they had. They had already made a handfome
collechon of natural curiofities, amongft which were
the Flying-filli, an Eel of an enormous fize, the teeth
of a Sea-horfe, a very handfome Lithodendron, a
Hair Bali ( iEgagropila) of a Cow, the bignefs of
one's fill, a Parcel of Petrefadtions given by the late
Dr. Stobcrus.

The cloaths which women here ufe in bad wea-
ther appear ftrange to travellers. They throw a piece
of black fluff, four feet long, over their heads and half
their bvodies, fo as likewife to cover their faces. It is
ufed by all people of middling fortunes, and hath
without doubt been introduced by the foreigners,

that

T O S M Y R -N A, 9

that firft built the town, nor has it yet undergone the
change, to which the drefs of women is liable.

The yth infliant, I went to a peafant's houfe in the
country, where the window was. in the roof, which
'made the rooms dark, but much warmer: In Scania,
SmOland and Bohus,they ufe the fame method. Cab-
bages were planted here in large quantities by every
farmer ; and I am told that this ufeful plant is more
ufed here than in any other place.

Early in the morning of the 8th, we hove up
our anchor and fet fail from Elffbprg fort. We faw
Marftrandln the afternoon, and at night Skagens
light-houfe.

The 9th, we had Jutland on our larboard.

On the ioth, we took the Efox Roftro Cufpi-
dato, Artedi fpec. 2. (Garfilli). The defcription
comes very near the common Pike ; but is eafily
diflinguiftied by its long rollrum. The fcales were
green, the whole body was of a green colour, and
its back and fide bones were green, which I have
hot obferved in any other fifli.

Thf 1 3 th, we had a Wefterly wind and hard
weather.

On the 15th, fome little birds, fuch as the Red-
ftart, common Swallow, and a Sea Swallow, were
driven by bad weather on board us, before we per-
beived it ; not long after we had a violent florm from
theN.W. which lafted for three days.

The 20th, fome Chaffinches and a Sea Swallow,
the common forerunners of bad weather, came oil
board us. In the evening it blew a flrong cold wind
from the Weft, which was foon over.

The 2 1(1:, in the morning, a failor, at the mad
head, faid, he faw the Dutch coaft ; our Captain
believed us not fo far in our way, and therefore re-
garded it not : before three in the afternoon, we
^' '" faw

Id TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

faw the Englifh coafl about Yarmonth, from th«;
mafl-head, by which we knew where we were, and
that it was necefTary to be upon our guard, as we
were between the EngUfli banks. The founding
lead is in fuch a cafe a failor's right hand ; and it
was now much ufed between fear and hope. Wq
fopnded, and found twenty fathom, and immediately
after five, which continued for feveral hours, and wa?
a fign of the uncertain ground on which we were,
The failors believed us to be out of our true courfe,
and upon fome bank not put down in their chart.
We were fo lucky as to have excellent weather, and
the wind proving favourable, which brought us be-
fore night in our true courfe.

The Dutch havp here their gold mines, for fo
We may juftly call their herring fifliery ; nqr can it
be idenied that they keep nearer their neighbours
than their own properties. We failed by numbers
of their boats on the 2 2d, and could once count
above t\iiTty on a little fpot.

On the 23d, we entered the narroweil part of
the channel, between France and England, and
could fee the coafts of both thefe powerful kingdoms
at the fame time. We were very near the latter, and
could without a glafs fee its chalky hills, covered with
ilints, and Dover fort fituated pn the fummit of them.
A gopd wind and excellent weather drove us over
thofe dangerous fhoals, that have been fp fatal to
failors. The 25th, about noon, we came into the
Spanifhfea, having in two days and a half failed 540
jnile§, being the whole length of the channel.

OuK Swedifh jBag hath nothing to fear from the
rovers of the co^ift of Barbary, as long as the
Swediih crown, to the great advantage of our trad^,
keeps at peace with the moil powerful of them.
A fe^v fmall rovers, from the ports of Salee and

Tangier,

TO SMYRNA. u

Tangier, that Ibmetimes infefl: thefe feas, are the only
pirates againft whom the Swedes fhould be particu-
larly cautioned : and as an enemy ought never to be
defpifed, we put our cannon in order, and the 2 6th
gave arms to as many as were on board. In this
pofture our velTels commonly fail until they have
palTed Gibraltar.

The 28th, at noon, we were in fight of the fa-
mous head, beyond which the ancients thought
there was no land, and were fo near the fliore that
fome Linnets (Fringilla) reached us, and wearied
out, fought a night's reft in the fhelter of our fails.

The 30th, as we were failing in the Spanifh feas,
the weather was fo fine, that it feemed as if the fky
and fea ftrove to excel each other in beauty. The
little knowledge I had, was confined to the three
kingdoms of nature, and therefore I found myfelf
in the fame fituation, as a perfon who walks in a park
filled with the finefl animals and plants, without un-
derftanding natural hiftory. Such a one can fay no
more, but that it is very handfome. I doubL not but
many fine opportunities paiTed unobferved by me,
which might have given hints for ufeful obferva-
tions to a perfon who had any knowledge in aftro-
nomy and natural philofophy. We had now paffed
by St. Vincents head, which is a head-land wellknowii
tQ failors, when we, .the 9th of October in the
morning, overtook a Dutch frigate of war, which
was carrying home a Tripoline Aii Effendi, who
returned from his embafly to the Dutch republic,
and was the fame that fqme years before had been
in Stockholm on the fam.e errand. It feemed very
fuipicipus, confidering the place we were in, to fee
Turks on board a fliip, and a number of armed
men, who hoifted no flag when we did ; this occa-
fiQned qUr feamea to anii themfelves for their de-

:e;

12 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

fence ; but our fufpicions ended, when the lleute?
nant, with a fubahern and eight men, came on boar4
to enquire whence we came, and whither we were
bound.

Here we obferved large droves of PorpulTe?
coming from the W. towards the S. E. which were
the firft we had feen fmce we left the North fea.
The failors fay they foretell bad weather, when they
appear on the furface of the water, efpecially in
thofe places to which they direct their courfe. But
they were miHaken this time ; for the fine weather,
which we had through the Spaniili feas, continued
with violent heat for fome days.

The 1 1 th, we were the whole day in fight of the
African coafl:, and towards evening had the Spanifli
coafl on our right as before. We were no'yv yery near
going into the Mediterranean fea ; but were obliged
to be content, and cruize for two days between the
Spanifh and African coaft, on account of a briflv:
Eafterly wind.

The 14th, in the afternoon, we went througli
the ftrait that divides Africa from Europe. High
limeflone mountains were to be feen on both fides
of the channel, out of which there came the fraoak:
of many fires, which are lime-kilns, that they have
in the clefts of the rocks of both coafis. Befides
thefe lime-fiione mountains, we could fee others of
loofe fand. which were not fo deep, but more gra-
dually declining to the fea. They were quite green,
covered with fome flirubs, and had fome vineyards.
The profpeft of thefe mountains was far from being
agreeable. The ornament of the Northern moun-
tains, Ever-green Pines and Jimipers, are not to be
feen here.

Vf E faw the town and fortrefs of Gibraltar the
15th; they are fituated on a high rock, that termi'

" ■' • • • <■ natej^

^r 6 SMYRNA. ii

Hates the Spanifh mountains towards the fea. Ceuta
lies ahnoft facing it on the African coaft. When
thefe are out of fight, the Straights are paffed, and
another fea is entered.

We faw the Mediterranean by fun-rife, and
failed along the Spaniili coaft, to which feamen
always keep nearer than the African. A beauti-
ful little bird (Motacilla Hifpanica) came on board
lis from the Spaniili coaft. It was the forerunner of
hard weather, which happened to us a few hours
after, with a flrong N. E. wind, which lafted all
night. We had violent thunder and lightning, with
hail and rain, in the night of the i8th, which
was an uncommon fight for Swedes. We were yet
in fight of the high Spanifh mountains, which by day
we faw covered with fnow, and at night fhining with
fires, which are partly thofe of the guards, and
partly thofe of the lime-kilns. We caught a Lark
and a Wagtail (Motacilla corpore e fufco viride-
fcente, peftore ferrugineo) on board. Many of thd
former were drowned ; only this one came in a mife-^
table weak condition on board.

The 25th, in the forenoon, we had Forraentera
on our left. This is an ifland in the Mediterranean,
over-againft the Spanifh coaft, upon which we cotild
only fee a few buflies j its fliores rife perpendicular
from the fea.

We experienced for fome days the autumn of
this climate ; ftorm, cold weather, rain, and at night
terrible lightenings ; but at nine o'clock, in the night
between the 28th and 29th, twelve miles to the
Weft ward of Sardinia, we had the moft terrible and
fevere weather that we had yet fuffered in our voy-
age. The wind from the North, attended with
violent hurricanes and lightening from all parts of
the iky, with fome thunder : then a fhower of rain,

with

14 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

with liail ; but this did not lafl above half an hour.;
The hail flones which fell, were partly of an ova!
form, fome round, fome elliptical, others angulated.
The largeft were bigger than walnuts, the leffer like
liiitmegs. The outfide was white and clear, with a
kernel in the infide, Which was blueifli, and the big-
nefs of a pea. I found fome of them that weighed
an ouncei

The ill of Novemiber we could fee the African
coaft from the mad-head ; from thence a bird called
Emberiza africana came on board us.

The 2d, we failed by Sicily, with a ftrdng North
wind : jufl before this we had feen fome PorpuiTeSi

An innumerable flock of Sparrows (Emberiza
melitenfis) furrounded our vefTel on the 3d, and im-
mediately after we had a hard gale that lafled all
the following day.

The 7 th, we were in fight of the coaft of Mo*
rea, when a Levant, i* e. a N. E. wind met us, and
obliged us to Cruize to the nth, without gaining
the leaft.

Early on the 1 2th, we had Candia and Cerigo on
our left.

The 13th, we faw Morea to the left> and Milo
to the right, when we were in hopes foon to end
our voyage, and the fine weather we now had^ made
fome amends for the difagreeable neceffity of being
fo long at fea. But our happinefs was at an end
in the afternoon. The nearer a failor comes to
the fliore, the furer he may be of inconftant wea-
ther. A North wind met us with a moft dreadful
ftorm, and obliged us to drive about for two days*

It was lucky for us, that on the 15th we were fo
near Milo, that we could run in during fuch a fu-
rious ftorm. The harbour of Milo is one of the
beft in the Archipelago, furrounded with mountains
on all fides, of which one hath a ruined caftie and

%

To SMYRNA. Ijf

a village at the entrance, which without doubt
hath one of the higheft fituations, and moft exten*
five horizons of any in the univerfe. We came to
an anchor in full twenty fathom water. The depth
bf the water in this harbour, makes it of much more
confequence in bad weather.

The 1 6th, in the forenoon, we rowed a {hore,
and went up to the town of Milo. I was glad to
find fome plants in bloflbm at this time of the yeaf ^
though autumn had already taken hold of the
greater part, and of thofe the withered remains were
only now to be feen. The firfl I faw was the au-
tumnal Dandelion, which grows in Sweden, and
flowers about the fame time. The Anemone Coro-
tiaria was in full blolTom, fome of which were white,
others blue. Nerium (Oleander) flood in two places
in large bufties befide the road, and adorned the
place with its fliff green leaves and long pods, buc
had not yet ripened feeds. A Fig-marigold, half a
foot high (Mefembryanthemum Nodiflorum) grew
in all the fields, with little obtufe and fucculent
leaves, without flowers. In the wall, grew two
Ihrubs or buflies four feet high ; one of them had
little oval green leaves, without flowers (Pihamni
Species) ; the other had hoary leaves, which I like-
Wife defcribed. The road was full of pebble flones
and clear quartz in fmall pieces, red and white fpar,
befides fand-ftone and hard lime-flone. On both
fides, the walls round the gardens were built with a
rough fand-fl:one, with which was mixt with fome
coarfe light yellow clay in large pieces ; this was in
fome places turned quite red by the heat of the
fun.

After walking near a mile from the fliore, we
came into the town. The fight of it could not but
excite the compalfion of the beholder, as nothing

i^ TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

was to be feeii but the remains of ruined houfes*
ibrmerly ilately, built of fquare lime-ftone. Withirf
thefe poor walls, lived miferable inhabitants, whofe
dwellings differ from the word of prifohs, only as
thefe receive light through the door, inflead of the
windows, and have the liberty of going in and out
of them. We went immediately to the Dutch Con-
ful, and after dinner with the Venetian Conful, to
fee the principal church. On the iliore I found the
Nerium (Oleander), Erigeri S'pecies, Fig-marigold,
&c. In the gardens, which are bad, are very large
Palm-trees, fome Fig-trees, fome large old builies
of Rofemary, Narciffus, Marjoram', which was
there reckoned a rare plant, and was almofl the
only one kept in pots. Wild fowl they have in'
plent)^ Amongft them they had a black game,
larger than the Swedifli j this Was a rare bird, fo
far to the Southward. The town, though poor,
is full of people. Children come out of every
corner, but all miferable. The better fort dwell
in the firil floor, but their dwellings were alike
bad. Here are two Greek churches ; but no' Romiih'
chapel or miffionary. I went into one of the above
churches, which made a tolerable appearance. They
fhewed me a curiofity, which deferved attention.
It was a piece of a fliip's plank, bored through
by a fiilibone, which was part of the tooth of
the Monodoii (Unicorn fifli); A French Cap-
tain had found it in the keel of his' lliip, as fhe
was careening iti Moirea. He cut out the piece
and took it to this place, to be hung up in the
church. It was curious, but not miraculous, as
thefe good people imagined. The French have
here a Conful of their nation ; the Duch and Ve-
netians have each one from among the Greek in-
habitants. There is no Turk in this ifland. The

Captain

TO SMYRNA.

17

captain Pafcha fends a galley here while he cruizes
in the Archipelago to fetch the Turkifli emperor's
yearly tax, which is high enough confidering the
poverty of the country and the fcarcity of money.
It is governed by primates, who colieft and ac-
count for the taxes, and compound differences.
The people in general are very friendly and polite.
The women's drefs is one of the oddeft and lead
becoming of any of the iflanders in the Archi-
pelago. They were naked from the neck to the
waifl, and had ailiort petticoat reaching to the mid-
dle of the thigh, a loofe garment covered the
head, and their plaited hair hung down to the fmali
of the back. The ifland produces fome cotton, which
the French and Venetians buy. They alfo have
bad wine.

The 1 8th, after taking a pilot, who was to
conduft us through the Archipelago, we fet fail.

The 19th, we faw the ifland Parfo. The 20th,
Tins, Negropont ; and the 21 ft, we anchored on
the coaft of Karuburno, which is on the continent
of Natolia ; we had Natolia on the one fide and
Scio on the other. I went on fliore the fame day,
but found nothing to reward my labour, except the
common wild Thyme. Haliotis (Scar Ear) and Pu-
mex (Pumice ftone) were the other naturalia found
here.

The 25th, we failed under Scio, and had an
opportunity of feeing its handfome town, which
makes a fine appearance ; but the plantations and
gardens are a more material ornament, as they
produce the famous Maflix.

The 26th, we came in the Gulph of Smyrna,
and had Natolia on both fides.

The 27th, we had like to have made an unfortunate
. end of our vova^e. at a time we thought our mif-

C ""■ fortunes

i8 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

fortunes were all over. Wc had the wind con-
ftantly a-head, which obliged us to beat up be-
tween two fliores; this is dangerous in a narrow chan-
nel. By failing too near the land, at day break,
we run aground. A Greek and a Turk, who were
fiihing on the fliore, came immediately on board,
and offered us their aiTiflance in procuring fmall
veffels to lighten ours; but a land breeze filled our
fails and help'd us off. At noon, we anchored without
the Caflle of Smyrna, which commands the en-
trance, when Meffieurs Palm and Hebbe, our Swe-
dilli merchants, came on board. We went into the
harbour, and were faluted, according to cuftom,
'by the guns of all the velTels, except the French,
who never honour any nation with a falute, nor re-
ceive it from them.

We went on (liore in the afternoon with the
.captain, and were, by our conful Mr. llydelius, re-
ceived with a politenefs to be expelled from a
gentleman of his noble qualifications.

The 29th, I waited on Mr. Peyfonel, the French
conful, and member of the Academy of infcri ptions
und belles lettres. To his great knowledge I
am indebted for the following obfervation relating
to natural hiftory. Corals have in our age been e-
lleemed a proper fubjeft for the pens of the greatefl
naturahfts. Nature hath fo contrived this part of
her works, that Corals have had a contrary lot
from other naturalia, and have been claffed
under the different kingdoms of nature. And
it is yet uncertain, to which they properly be-
long. In Mr. Peyfonel's company, the learned
Count MarGgli had the good fortune to overcome
all the doubts he had entertained about thefe na-
turalia, when in his invaluable HifLoria Maris he laid
before the world what he took to be the flowers of

the

TOSMYRNA. ip

the Corals. At that time they were thought to be
vegetables. We know of none who immediately
diiTented from this opinion. Mr. Peyfonel, by
fome obfervations he made on the French coaft,
before Marfigli printed his book, had reafon to
think otherwife, experience convincing him that
Corals were inhabited by worms. Mr. Peyfonel
did not make natural hiftory his chief ftudy ; he
did not fet much value on thefe obfervations, yet
communicated them to his brother, a learned
phyfician, who intended to publifli them.

At length, Count Marfigli anticipated Mr. Pey-
fonel, who fupprelTed his and his brother's obferva-
tions; but afterwards informed Mr. Reaumur of
them, who knew hov/ to make ufe of fuch a con-
fiderable fpeculation. Mr. Reaumur gave it in to the
Royal Parifian Academy of Sciences augmented with
his own obfervations; nor omitted to attribute the ho-
nour to the real difcoverer. This was the rife of an
opinion about Corals, that fmce hath been thought
worth the enquiry of the learned, and has received
an almoft univerfal applaufe, which the inventor ne-
ver expefted

A TRAVELLER, who, either for his pleafure or
fome ufeful purpofe, v/ould chufe to be acquainted
with the ceremonies of thofe religions which have
claimed the attention of mankind, fhould vifit
fome city in the Levant, where he will fee them all,
except idolatry. Many Chriilians imagine that the
Greek church comes nearefl with refpe6l of ceremo-
nies, to that, which was predominant at the begin-
ning of chriftianity. I faw thofe of the church of Smyr-
na fo remarkable for her antiquity, andyet more for
having preferved herfelf in the tolerable fituation
{lie now is in, though perfecuted by the Pope and
Turk, while her fillers are fcarcely known here!

C 2 Thel

20 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

The ehurcli of Smyrna hath a billiop, fucceflbr to
him who received this remarkable title from the
fupreme Shepherd. His poAver is limited to thofe
who live in this city, of whom, by contributions and
money for ceremonies,. he hath his revenue, which
is one of the mofl confiderable among the Greek
clergy.

Few of thofe, who have publiilied travels, have
given us any account of the ftate of phyfick out of
Europe. Few phyficians have travelled out of the
circle of the learned world; though others have
been attentive to what regards their refpe£tive pro-
feffions. I have thought it my duty to make myfelf
acquainted with what regards medicine in thofe pla-
ces through which I went. Smyrna, in the time
the Grecians made phyfick a part of heavenly
doctrine, was adorned with temples, facred to the
God of Health and Medicine. They ftruck medals
in honour of thofe who praclifed this facred fcience,
and with judgement adminiftered thofe remedies,
which Providence had revealed to them \ Time hath
greatly changed the ftate of this Science here. The
Greeks have yet remaining fome fparks of that fire,
which fhone in their fore-fathers ; but which would,
without doubt, be extinguiilied, if a few, more en-
couraged by the hope of getting a living than out
of love for the fcience, had not determined to acquire
knowledge in our learned Europe. There are fome
Greeks to be found in Conftantinople and Smyrna,
who have fludied phyfick, chiefly in Padua : mofl of
them born on fome iiland in the Archipelago. Scio,
in particular, has a number of tolerable phyficians,
and alfo fupplies other places with them; I know
not what pretenfions iflands have to furniHi good

» See Mead, Orat. de Honor. Med.

phy-

TOSMYRNA. 21

phyficlans: Stanchio (Cous) and England afford us
remarkable examples. I had an opportunity of
making thefe obfervations, on the 9th of De-
cember, when I was called to a confultation, to
enquire into the difeafe of their chief brother
phyfician, a Greek from Scio, who died vrithin
a few days of an Aflhma convulfivura. He obler-
ved flri^lly the rule he had followed in his praclice,
to leave all to nature, without ufmg any drugs, un-
iefs dicetetical. Thefe are almoft the only drugs
prefcribed by the phyficians in Smyrna, and the diet
confifls in a fort of failing. They give for reafoa, that
the air is nouriiliing, and fufficient to keep the fick
in life; but this convinced me of my former experi-
ence, that the moil falutary rules may prove detri-
mental, when carried too far, and not apphed to
circumilances. The phyficians here, in my time,
were Doctor Demetri, who was above 80 years old,
was born in Scio, had travelled through England
and Germany, praftifed nine years in St. Efprit, the
chief hofpital in Rome, and in his youth had acqui-
red fome knowledge in botany, which he did not
negleft, as he at this age had a complete knowledge
of Ray's and Tournefort's fyltems. I gave him
fome idea of Dr. Linnseus's famous fyflem. He re-
ceived my informations in the fame manner, as an
aged foldier, incapable of attending battles and
fieges, is yet rejoiced to hear of new expeditions.
Dr. Zani was the other of the faculty in Smyrna ;
he appeared to be ayoung, handfome, and naturally-
ingenious man, provided with fuch learning as is
required for knowing common difeafes : he had
great hopes to gain the peoples confidence, towards
which he was already pretty well advanced.

The 16th, I made my firfh jaunt on Iiorfcback,

which gave me no favourable opinion of the iaiia-

C 3 bi:aii:5

22 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

bitants of the Eafl:. The miferable roads, over hills
and dales, full of Hones and mud, put me in mind of
the incomparable roads in Sweden, and gave me a
much worfe. opinion of the celebrated Southern
countries, than I before had. But what on this
journey caufed a woeful remembrance to a Swede,
was the place, where five years ago, Mr. Kierman,
merchant in Smyrna, and fon to Mr. Alderman
Kierman in Stockholm, was lliot dead by fome
highwaymen. The lofs our trade fuffered by the
death of this young man, was not to be repaired by
the lamentations of the Turks or the punifliment
of the murderers. The former however ihews
that, amongfh thofe we efteem barbarians, there arc
lovers of virtue, and the latter confirms to us, that
the Turks have learn'd the wife rule, that juftice
is due to all men. Budgia, an agreeable country-
feat of the Dutch Conful Hochpied, to which
"we came, expelled thefe melancholy reflexions. Its
Cyprefs park, filled with Gazellas, Peacocks, Phea-
{cuns. Partridges and Nightingales, is incompa-
rable.

The diverfior.s of the Carnaval began amongfl:
the Franks, the beginning of the year, with balls
and genteel fuppers. I was prefent, the 5th of Ja-
nuary, at the entertainment the Dutch Conful
Hochpied gave to all the Europeans. Every thing
was well conducted, after the European manner.
Mufick is the only thing, we muft put up with, after
the manner of the country, which is bad enough. It
confifted of two miferable violins, and two lutes, nei-
ther of which was well played. This noble art is now
no more to be found, in a country where it once had
arrived to the higheil perfection. In vain may we
now look for an Orpheus among the Greeks; but
^ dance, a remain of the Grecian age, performed by

the

' TO SMYRNA. 23

the Greek women, afforded me infinite pleafure.
They were about fifteen in number, the foremoll of
which conduced the dance, by making fignswitha
garment ilie held in her hand. The art confift ed
in keeping an equal half-circle, to be obferved un-
der all their different turnings. They likewife fe-
veral times made a labyrinth, but immediately re-
affumed their former flation. There was fome-
thing particular in this dance, which at firil fight,
convinced me it was ancient. My conjeflures were
confirmed by Mr. Peyfonell, the French Conful,
who hath much knowledge in what relates to Gre-
cian antiquities. He told me, that fome monuments
of marble had been found, on which this dance
was fculptured. It is fo agreeable when danced
by Greeks, dreffed in the ancient manner and con-
formable to the dance, that no modern invention of
this kind feems to equal it. The mufick ufed on
this occafion did not appear to me to have been de-
figned for it by the antients. What J afterwards
heard them fing, feemed to mt better applied.

The hard frofl, which had lafted a whole week,
(the like was not remembered by the oldefl men li-
ving) was now fo far broke, that I in the afternoon
of the 2d of February could venture myfelf in the
gardens, without the town, to fee what havock win-
ter had made amongft my flowers, which I a Ihort
time before had feen in their glory. They had
withflood the cold pretty well, fo that Chryfanthe-
mum and Calendula, with feveral others, yet adorn-
ed the fields; but fome of the Syngenefifls had fuf-
fered a Httle. Art has been but of fmall affiflance
to the gardens here, except in planting a few
Orange-trees, which do not grow wild. Nature in
this place is amiable ; but, if a little art was ufed,
the gardens here would foon poffefs much greater
C 4 beauties

2.4 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

beauties, than tliofe in our Northern Europe, which
require (o much coil and labour ; Orange-trees grow
here in abundance, nor does any body care to pluck
the fruit, which remains on the trees the whole
year, until the flowering feafon, when it falls off.
Some Fig, Olive, and Pomegranate-trees, ftand here
and there, wiihout order. Poplar-trees are common
enough few Dates and Palm-trees are to be feen,
and thofe feem to be very old. Cyprefs trees
grow in fome places, and mount towards the i]<y,
like tall Pyramids. Such are the greateft ornaments
nature has given to thefe countries. Pledera Helix
(Ivy) grows in fuch abundarc^ about and within all
the gardens of Smryna, that it can fcarcely be more
common in any place. It makes the greatefl part
of their hedges, and creeps about every where in
their gardens, to which it is an ornament but of
little fervice. I faw fome of nature's mafter-pieces,
of this plant, which confirm'd me in -my former o-
pinion, how ufeful it is to adorn gardens, efpecialiy
if art leads it to proper places, where it is moil
wanted. I faw an Ivy and a Vine together, cover
a Pome-granate tree, which made a noble appear-
ance. In another place, four Vines had crept up a
Fig-tree, and with their librous roots faftened to
the bark, which was not lefs agreeable ; but the
handfomeft of all was a gateway, nature had made
of Ivy, which had twilled itfelf together, over^
a miferable crarden ^ate, to the thicknefs of three
feet, and the length of eight. The gate confifted of
foraeunplaned and rough deals nailed together, ordi-
nary enough for a common (table door ; but the cover-
ii]g might have been an ornament to the .entrance
of a royal garden. The fences round gardens are
moilly fuch as the want of wood taught them to
make. They are chiefly hedges, and therefore

perma-

T O S M Y R N A. 25

permanent. They make them of Willows, which are
planted at the fides of a ditch, at four feet di fi-
ance; or of Caprificus, which is yet handfom-
er, and peculiar almofl to this country, planted in
the fame manner. I beheve, that our Swedifh huf-
bandmen will not dare to plant fuch fences; but I
know the former hath been under confideration,
and I wiih it was done in the fame manner it is here,
as I am perfuaded it may. •

Banks are more common here. Ivy, and a
parcel of other builies grow on them, with common
Reed, Arundo Phragmites, (Donax) much larger
than the Swediili, and make them durable and a
good defence. I was curious to know how this Reed
came to grow in fuch quantities on thefe banks, and
enquired of the inhabitants whether it had been
fown or planted there ? They anfwered in the ne-
gative. I allied whether they had carried the
earth from the fea fliore, and the roots in it, which
afterwards grew up ? This they likewife denied.
The earth for the banks is dug on the fpot, and
thrown out of the ditches on both iides. It was not
however very difficult to difcover whence this plant
came. It is not long fmce the fea v/ent up to thefe
gardens, which runs now a cannon-lliot from them,
and then, as now, Reed grew on the *fhore. The
fea decreafed, and its bottom became dry land,
whereby the roots of this Reed remained with its
former lliores, which, after the ground was dug up
for banks, were at liberty to fpi;ead, grow up and
feed, like the largefl wood; but this was not i'o ea~
fy, whilft they lay hid in the ground under a high-
way. Clay walls are the worfl kind of fences ufed
here. The fpring began already, on the 12th of
Februa'ry, to bring forth the beauties of the South-
ern regions, owing to the mild climate. The x4l1-

mond-tree

26 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

mond-tree flowered around Smyrna on bare
boughs. Anemones and Tulips adorned the fields,
and grew fpontaneouily in valleys, and at the foot
of mountains. The former are pretty, of different
colours, purple and deep red, cochineal red,
with a white ring at the bafis of the petals. I
defer ibed to day a Solitaire, a bird kept in a
cage in our Swedifli houfe. It is a kind of Thrulh
(Turdus folitarius), highly eiteemed by the Eaft-
ern nations for its fong; and they have told me, that
it fells to the Turks at Conftantinople, for 200 Pi-
afters. It whiftles, and can learn to fmg entire
airs, if it be kept to it, and exercifed. They are
found in the Grecian iilands. Whence they are
brought over and fold by the Greeks, who in their
language, call it hhyaXa. If kept in a cage, it is fed
with frejQi meat, infe6ls and currants,

I was defirous to fee Opobalfamum or Balfam of
Mecca in a place where I was certain to find it good
and genuine. This is feldom found genuine in Europe,
and perhaps never entered an Apothecary's fliop in
Sweden, unadulterated. It is a drug that is feldom
to be had genuine, even in Turkey ; for the bullies
from which it is taken are fcarce in Arabia, and the
quantity they yearly afford is barely fufEcient for
the court of the Turkiih Emperor, and the gran^
dees of the empire. A few of the common Turks,
who make pilgrimages to Mecca, may chance to get
a fmall quantity not mixed, but fcarcely one in a
thoufand that yearly go there return without fome
mixture, which they fell for the true Balfam, though
they have made it of Turpentine, &;c. Of this kind f
take the greatcft part to be, which the Druggifls
and Apothecaries in Europe have; as I faw their
merchants in Smyrna buy fuch mixtures, and fend
them to Europe, there to be difpofedof under the

name

TO SMYRNA. 27

name of the trueBalfam of Mecca. I faw fome the
13th of February, which lam fure was of the true
khid ; as it agreed with the defcriptions the befl au-
thors have given us, and what I myfelf have learn'd
concerning its tranfportation. I had frequently op-
portunities to fee, what was called Balfam of Mecca,
but I never beheved any to be the true, except
this, which I have defcribed.

Spring was now advancing apace: and as the
heat encreafed, I went without the town on the
14th, to fee what effeft this fine weather had on na-
ture, and what fort of plants the fpring afforded. I
went to the burying-places of the Turks, to fee
whether they contained any thing worth notice.
They bury mod of their dead without the town,
they have however near fome of their churches,
and even private houfes places fiU'd with graves.
But the largefl and moft numerous are without
the town. They occupy a large terrace around the
town, and therefore make an incredible quantity of
earth ufelefs, which they encreafe daily, by digging
new graves and fearching for other places, when
they bury their dead. They have their burying-
places furrounded with fine walls, and handfomer
than thofe about their gardens and vineyards. At
each grave they had raifed up a flone of coarfe
marble, for the moll part grey, but fome brown.
On thefe they had beflowed more or lefs art, ac-
cording to the eflate and efleem the deceafed enjoy-
ed while living. I concluded thofe were grandell,
over whom was built a triangular monument of
ftones. Next were thofe with oblong flones, on the
farther end of which was engraved a turban or
Turkifh h.eaddrefs ; if this is green, it fignifies that
an Emir or relation of Mahomet lies here. The
pogrefl had plain flones withoiit any art and la-
bour.

^8 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

bour, except cutting them out of a rock and
fmoothing. There Avere fome that had infcrip-
tions. The burying-places of the Turks are
handfome and agreeable, which is owing chiefly to
the many fine plants that grow in them and which
they carefully place over their dead: Cypreffes of
remarkable height, and an innumerable quantity of
Kofemary, were the plants chiefly found here. The
latter were now in full bloflbm and afforded a de-
licious odour. The former, which the Turks ef-
teem mourning trees, were in fruit, and are agree-
able both fumraer and winter to the fight and fmell.
The Turks a6i: much more confident than the
Chriflians, when they bury their dead without the
town, and plant over them fuch vegetables, as
by their aromatick and balfamick fmell can drive a-
way the fatal odours, with which the air is filled in
fuch places. I am perfuaded, that they by this ef-
cape many misfortunes, which aifecl Chrifl:ians, from
their wandering and dwelling confliantly among the
dead. A large and fine variety of Ranunculus
Ficaria; the Androfaceof Linnceus were new flowers
of this year, which I faw, and the Almond-tree
which was fnow-white with bloflfoms. Why does
the Almond-tree, which hath white flowers, blof-
fom on bare boughs ? not for the fame reafon as
the hazel ; perhaps the fruit, having a ftone,
requires a longer time to grow ? They adorn the
rifmg grounds, and according to nature's order ought
TO afford much fruit, as they bloom at a time of
the year when the ll^y is confl:antly ferene, and it
neither rains nor is there any kind of bad weather,
which in many countries prevent a fine bloflbm
from giving the wiflied-for fruit.

The 17th, I found Hyacinthus Mufcari grow in
common round the town, and in full bloflbm. The

Turks

TOSMYRNA. 29

Turks call it Mufcharumi, and it ferves them in
their love affairs in this manner : A young man fends
this flower to a girl he loves ; When flie fees it is
Mufcharumi, flie mufl remember a word in rhime to
anfwer this, which is Ydilcerumi, and puts her in
mind by implication what her lover expects from
her. This is properly called an allegorical manner
of fpeaking. This evening I learned an ingenious
method of giving wine a good and pleafant tafle,
from the French conful Mr. Peyfonell, who had late-
ly got it from the Greek billiop in Smyrna. I have
defcribed it in my colleclions, and took care of the
thing with which it is to be done : this Mr. Peyfonell
likewife gave me.

The 24th in the afternoon, I had an opportunity
of feeing the Jews fynagogue. I went there with
Mr. De Colla, the principal Jew merchant in Smyr-
na, -and a man of knowledge acquired both by
obfervation and reading. There are not about fix
fynagogues in Smyrna ; there were more formerly,
which were deflroyed by fire, and not fmce rebuilt.
Thofe remaining are fmall, but handfome. In
the middle of the fynagogue was an elevated
place furrounded with a clofet, within which were
benches. I took thofe, who fat there, for holy men.
Piound the walls v/ere likewife benches, upon which
the men fat, and on the fides on the floor and in
galleries were feparate clofets, in w^hicli the women
performed their devotions. From the cieling hung
a quantity of glafs lamps and fome metal candle-
fticks. In one of thefe fynagogues I was fliewed
the books of Mofes, wrote in a fine Hebrew let-
ter on parchment, covered with filk, roiled up and
tied round with ribbands. They had about four
clofets filled with fuch volumes ; thefe clofets flood
in the wall 5 and on the pannels of the doors the
'2 Law

30 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Law of Mofes, the ten commandments, and oth^r
parts of the Pentateuch, were worked with letters cut
out of black cloth, and fewed on cloth of different
colours. In each fynagogue fat a man on one fide of
the door, dreffed in black or white, reading in the
books of Mofes; and feveral people that fat on
the benches likewife had them and read after him.
Coming home, I got an Iris (tuberofa) imberbis,
corollis apice purpureis.

Barnaba is one of the prettleft villages round
Smyrna, being about two hours journey from the
town, whither we went on horfeback the 2d of
March. An Aga had the command of this, as well
as fome other villages hereabout ; but the lafl
poffeflbr of this office having feveral times furnifli-
ed the Franks with occafion of complaint, at the
beginning of this month they petitioned the Porte to
difmifs him. He was accordingly difcharged, by
v/hich means, the Franks became more at liberty
to enjoy the pleafures the country might afford.
The hufbandman was now ploughing the land that
had been fallow laft year. The foil is here quite
loofe and eafy to till, and therefore requires little
labour in cultivation. It confifls chiefly of a loofc
clay mixt v/ith fand and covered with rich mould.
They always ufe oxen to plough the field ; the con-
ftru6tion of the plough I have defcribed in another
place. It is amufmg to fee them take off the
plough-fliare when they have done their work, and
put in on again when they have occafion. We
paffed by the burying-ground of this place, than
which many of our ccmntry pariflies in Sweden have
not larger. It fliou'd therefore feem, that it was
more than fufficient for a village, which contains
not ahove 20 or 30 families j but, to bury after the
I Turkifli

T O S M Y R N A. 31

Turkl{h manner, who never lay a corpfe where
another before hath been burled, fuch a place
mufl been larged every year; and probably, all the
land belonging to the village will in time be filled
with grave-ftones and bones of the dead. The
iargenefs.of the place, and the number of monu-
ments ftiew, that the village muft have been acon-
fiderable time inhabited, as people live to a great
age, and few die in a year. We alighted at the
houfe of Mr. Begler, the chief Grecian merchant
in Smyrna, a man v/hom I ought to mention with
refpe^ ; he had good lenfe, had lived long in Holland,
and now had an extenfive trade to that country in
company with a Dutch merchant. His houfe was
built in the Dutch tafte, and furrounded with a
fmall garden, where no other plants grew
than thofe of the country. Marjoram (Origanum
Majorana) which almoft every farmer in Sweden
has growing in his garden, was reckoned the fcarceft
plant, and kept in a pot near the entrance of the
houfe, with Cheiranthus Incanus over againft it,
on the other fide were Fig-trees, Almond-trees,
Orange-trees, Oriental Plane-tree, (Platanus orien-
talis) &c. which with us are kept in hot-houfes
and pots, but here in the open air left to nature ;
I took however notice, that the hard frolt towards
the latter end of February had ravaged the Orange-
trees, whofe leaves and fruit were entirely deflroy-
ed. This had likewife happened in the town, a-
mongil the trees that were there. On our return
we faw Storks, that were traveUing from the South-
ward to the Northward, who took up their lodg-
ings in a wheat-field, where they v/alk as gentle and
fearlefs as if they were tame, Thefe birds are
znofl favoured in Turkey. The Turks are their

greateft

32 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

greatefl defenders ; and if a Chriilian fliould hap-
pen to kill one of them, he would endanger his
fafety. Thofe who own a houfe where Storks have
nefted, are fuppofed to receive great bleffings
from heaven, and to be free from all misfortunes.
A nefl of them is efleemed by a bigoted Turk,
more than a field full of Sheep and Camels.

The I ft of March in the afternoon, I viewed
the dock-yard in Smyrna, as they were about laying
down a Swediflr fliip. This is a miferable place,
built by the Turks, where fliips can be laid over to
clean them, but a middling veflel will not be hove
down for lefs than 150 to 200 piaflers. The
place over which we went and returned took
up my attention more than the dock : It confifted
of a pretty fpacious field, which, as well as I can
guefs, may contain little more than one acre. I be-
held this field was anew world, or a new enlargement
of the inhabited world ; it may be difficult to find
a place which fo clearly proves the decreafe of the
fea, as this: Here I could plainly fee a dried bot-
tom of the fea, which confided of clay fiU'dwith fliells
and all forts of fea-infeds; around its extremities, on
the former fliore, lay all forts of pebble-fi:ones,
which the fea had thrown up. Here no plants had
yet had time to root, and be changed into mould ;
but I am perfuaded that within a few years one may
walk here as in a garden, fetch fruit out of a vine-
yard, or mow a corn-field. Towards the latter a
good beginning was already made by the Turks at
the weft-end of the place, where a little ftripe was
fown with barley, which grew freely. The place
on which Smyrna is built hath had the like origin
and appearance, with its gardens, vineyards and
corn-land : I could never have found any thing more
agreeable than our Swedifh arrow-headed grafs

(Triglochin

TO SMYRNA. ^

(Trlglochin paluftre) which I found to the north-
ward of this field. If I had not been able to dif-
cern with my eyes, and confirmed by the inhabi-
tants that this place formerly flood under water,
this plant had been fuificient to convince me and
others, who know its nature, and that through
the whole world it grows in fuch places, where it
can receive nourilhment from an -earth that hath
fome remains of fea fait.

I HAD an inclination to fee the inland fituation
of Natolia, before I left its coafls, and therefore
fet out on the nth of March for Magnefia, v/hich
is 8 hours travelling from Smyrna. I fet cut at
fan-rife, accompanied by a Drogman, an Arminian
fervant and a guide. We were all well armed,
which is cuftoraary in this country, and fre-
quently neceffary in the fiiortefl journey. We took
horfes from the caravan, which goes every Wednef-
day and Sunday from Smyrna to Magnefia. In one
hour's travelling from the town we came to a large
field, covered with Olive-trees, and in fome places
turned into corn land. Round thefe fields were fe-
veral villages, under the command of an Aga, who
had his feat in Barnaba, one of the largeft and
handfomefl. After this we fav/ a quite diiFerent
profpedl, and this fo odd, that I doubt whether any
one who has not feen the Eaftern countries can
have any idea of it : a mixture of hills and vallies,
like the high billows and gulphs in a boifterous fea.
In no place was it more evident that the continent,
we call earth, was in the beginning the bottom of
the fea. The hills were in their form unequal,
fome being flat towards the top ; others of a
conick figure. At a diilance they feemed com-
pofed of fand, gravel, clay, or fome other earth,
being covered with mould and plants. But at a

D nearet

34 TRAVELS TO THE EAST,

nearer view they are found to confill of a dark
brown, coarfe, loofe flate, compofed of thin flates,
and which may eafily be broke by the fingers.
I found hills of flate at the road fide, with breaches
cut through them to make paffages for travellers.
The other hills of Natolia confifled of Lime-flone,
which was whitifli, and of a coarfe grain : in thefe
I hkewife faw fome large breaches; but an innu-
merable quantity of loofe ft ones of this kind covered
both hills and roads. Nor were there wanting
loofe ftones of (^artz, Spart, reddiih Lime-ftone,
Sand-ftone, Spars mixt with Quartz; yet unmixed
Quartz was fomewhat fcarce, and always in fingle
pieces. Such mountains as we moftly have in the
North, are not to be feen here. Mould makes the
upper furface of all hills, in which grow various
plants, but none fo common as Arbmus Andrachne.
This bufh covers the hill in every place^ and grows
in fuch quantities, that I have never feen any plain
fo covered with Juniper-buflies in Sweden. The
latter were fo fcarce, that I fcarce faw ten on the
whole road. The Spanifh Pine (Pinus Picea) was
fomewhat more common, and occupied the moft barren
places ; but moft of thefe trees were young. All
the hills lay uncultivated, a fign of a country
badly till'd. If Natolia was well inhabited, good
hufbandmen would certainly make the hills turn
out to fome account. Here might be planted
good vineyards of the fine vines that grow about
Smyrna. Here a number of flieep might feed in
places that agree well with them, where the llieep's
Fefcue grafs (Feftuca ovina) grows fufiiciently.
Goats might feed here to a much greater number
than are now found here, there being plenty of
food for them. And if all other places, which here
lie uncultivated, were to be turned into corn land,

a careful

T O S M Y R N A. 35

a. careful hufbandman might raife the fineft crops on
thefe hills. The vales between the hills did not
appear very remarkable to me. They rather con-
fifted of fmall vales dividing one hill from another,
than of large and level plains. I faw no more than
two or three fuch plains, but they were not large, or
elfe over-run with the Andrachne. The profpeft of
the country is rather flrange than pleafnig ; and the
roads are very bad, as travellers muft ride amongfb
broken Hones up and down the highefl: hills. In
fome places the roads were paved, which feem to
be the remains of the ancients care for the conve-
niency of travellers. We met alfo with fl: one-
bridges, which feemed too good to be built by the
people who now inhabit the country. They were
formerly of more ufe than at prefent, as the river
muft have been larger; for we could now conve-
niently crofs it without palling the bridge. Taverns
were frequent on the road. We came to three or
four, but they have nothing to give travellers but
coffee, and water, which every one might fetch fromi
the well. The coflee-houfe confifted of a heap of
flones piled, covered with boughs. Here a Turk
made a fire for the coffee-pot, and to light pipes ;
thefe, with a cup, were all we could get for our bo-
dily wants. Wine and brandy are flrange things
for a Turk to give or fell to a traveller ; but if he
be treated with a glafs by a traveller, he will forget
the rigour of his rehgion during the time he drinks
it. A Turk of the better fort commonly makes it
a matter of confcience not to tranfgrefs the law that
- forbids them the ufe of fpirituous liquors. There
are however more to be found that regard this as
a commandment not rigoroufly enforced ; and when
the number of Turks" who believe drunkennefs no
fin, comes to equal that of the Chriflians, Hfe will be
D 2 ranch

^6 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

much more miferable both for them and ftraiigers.
We ahghted to reft at one of thefe places, and I
feized the opportunity to fee what plants the fpring
had brought forth. Saffron (Crocus fativus Linn.)
was the iirft, and the moft remarkable I found. I
fliould have been well fatisfied with feeing this
plant grow in its native country, if I had found no-
thing elfe in this journey. The oriental Saffron is
not a diftinft fpecies from the European ; but its
gcodnefs and virtue in phyilc hath always been
more efteemed than the latter, therefore the dofe
of it is lefs as it is ftronger. It grew here, but in no
confiderable quantity, amongft the Arbutus An-
drachne ; not at the top, but towards the decline of
the hills ; nor expofed to the heat of the fun, but in
fliady places. The colour was a pale yellow; but I
faw fome near Smyrna of a more dark and almoft
deep yellow. Natolia is well ftored with this pre-
cious plant, without culture; and in certain places,
as round Magnefia, towards the confines of Bruffa,
large quantities are gathered and exported to dif-
ferent places in Afia and Europe ; I have however
good reafon to fafpect that all our apothecary {hops
have not the fort to fell that is gathered here, when
oriental Saffron is prefcribed. The phyfician as well
as the apothecary cannot but fufpecl its genuinenefs,
after having gone through the hands of fo many
druggifts, who, as I myfelf have feen, underftand
the art of encreafmg a drug they cannot gain by
when fold genuine. Therefore, if any one is de-
firous of having the true oriental Saffron, which is
fuch a noble medicine, he muff endeavour to get it
from the iirft hand, which can beft be done by or-
dering it from any of the above-mentioned towns,
and fome iflands in the Archipelago, where it grows
in yet larger quantities. A phyfician, who is not

certain

TOSMYRNA. 37

certain of this drug, will find it confiftent with pru-
dence, rather to prefer ibeEngliili Saffron in a larger
dofe, than to prefcribe one thing and get another.
The Hyacinth (Hyacinthus) and Star-flower (Orni-
thogalum) were the other fpring flowers I found
here. We came to Magnefia at 3 o'clock in the
afternoon, and got lodgings in the firft Khan or
Caravanferai place, which for its ufe anfwers to an
inn in Europe; and where a traveller hath the fame
kind of accommodations, according to the cuftoras of
the country. The houfe was well built, but kept in
bad repair, covered with lead, and over the whole
roof Vv^ere raifed arches at the diflance of 12 feet
from each other. The building was two {lories high.
The upper were lodging rooms, and the lower ma-
gazines for goods and {landing for horfes. It con-
fifled of a quadrangle which enclofed a fine large
yard, in the middle of which was a good fou tain,
affording excellent water. This the Eaftern nations
are always follicitous to keep in order, for themfelves
and travellers. I here firft experienced how a tra-
veller is lodged in Turkey. We were led to a
chamber, the palfage to which was more difficult
than the high hills I afterwards afcended ; as on the
latter I had firm ground to ftand on, but here loofe
ftones. The inward appearance was fuch as might
be expe£i:ed in a place which has not been cleaned
for rooo years, viz. from its beginning, and perhaps
fome thoufands of people have lodged in it. A rufli
matt was laid on the floor for each of us, on which
we put the bed-clothes we had taken with us ; and
this was all our furniture, table, chairs and bed.
They make no great preparations here to accom-
modate travellers, and yet they live tolerably well,
though not very agreeably, in the beginning, to
thofe who are not accu{lomed to it. Mufelem (thus

D 3 the

38 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

the chief commander of a town in Turkey is called)
was the firft I had to wait on, to deliver him my
letters of recommendation from his friends in
Smyrna, and to let him know my intention of feeing
the town and places adjacent. I went immediately
to him, and made him fome prefents I had brought
with me. No traveller approaches a Turkilli of-
ficer, efpecially if he has any bufmefs with him,
without bringing him fome prefents. This is thq
CLiflom of the country, and was the fame in ancient
times, as may be feen by the travels in the Old
Teflament. Sweetmeats, tea, or fome fuch mat-
ters, are what a traveller had bell offer, as they are
acceptable. When I fu'll came in, he was engaged
in more important bufmefs than to be at leifure for
me. He was at his prayers, which were thofe, that
after the Mahometan religion are performed an
hour before fun fet, and no Mufulman will on any
account omit or poflpone them. I therefore went
away, and was by his fervant brought into a houfe
where a Turkifli wedding was celebrating. I was
politely received here, as well as in every place I
went to in the town. I could not fee the marriage
performed, nor the married couple. Very few
Turks, much lefs a Chriflian, are allowed to be
prefent. But I was at liberty to behold the diver-
sions of the guefts, who were in a large room, which
always is before the Turks chamber. They con-
fifted here, as in other places, in mufic and dancing,
tho' quite foreign to our tafle. The mufic were
two fmall kettle drums of copper, and a kind of
rough and ill-founding dulcimer. The muficians
beat both fo hard, that in a very large room, open
on all fides, none could hear what another faid,
tho' he fpoke loud ; but there was nothing like order
©r time kept. The dance was performed by one

perfon^

TOSMYRNA, 39

perfon, who might juflly be faid to dance for alL
He was dreiled in a iliort jacket, was bare footed,
and looked like a Turkifh foldier. He held in each
hand two wooden fpoons. Thus accoutred, he
lldpped about the middle of the room, and moved
his head and arms as much as his feet, at the fame
time often bending his body backwards, forwards,
and fideways. He held the fpoons, two in each
hand, in fuch a manner between his fingers, that he
could frequently ftrike them together, which with
the rough mufic made a noife no ways agreeable to
our ears. As far as I could comprehend, the chief
pleafure confifled in feeing a perfon for full three
quarters of an hour perfift in a motion fo ftrong,
as to put the body and every limb at once in full
aftion. By this we may fee that fomething of the
cufloms of the ancient inhabitants of thefe places,
whofe greatefl diverfions confided in feats of ac-
tivity, ftill remains. I v/ent back to Mufelem, and
being now admitted to a hearing, was received with
much politenefs. He was fo young that his whiflcers
had but jufl begun to grow, and was therefore
early enough appointed to fuch a confiderable em-
ployment. The road to preferment is the fame
amongft the Turks as amongft other nations. Merit
is fometimes of fervice, but connections, riches and
power bed avail. Kara Ofman Oglou, one of the
moft remarkable perfons at this time under the
Turkiih government, was his father. He had found
means to get the command over all this part of Na-
tolia, which reaches from Smyrna to Burfa, and had,
at the change the Turkifli Emperor m.ade this year
amongd his officers, prevailed fo far as to be ap-
pointed Mufelem in Magnefia, where he put his fon
in his room, and fent his fon-in-law, who had hi-
fhprto been in Magnefia, to Smyrna. Himfelf lived
D 4 in

40 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

in Kyragatch, a village two days journey from Mag-
iiefia, where are the richefl and fineft Cotton plan-
tations in Natolia. He could immediately raife
20,000 men, which were under his command; and it
was rumoured that his revenue were 1200 piaflers
a day. It was now about fun fet, when the Turks
eat fupper ; I therefore took ray leave, after being
defired to call again after fupper. I had fcarcely
time to go from the fopha to the door, before the
cloth was laid and two difhes cleared. The Turks
eat extremely faft. I have known a dinner of above
twenty difhes to have been finiflied in a quarter of
an hour.

I COULD not undertake any thing before I had
made another vifit to the Mufelem. Being a phy-
lician, I was much regarded by him; and his example
was not only followed by his fervants, but through
the v/hole town wherever I went: fo far from point-
ing at me or my fervant, and calling Jaur (unbe-
liever) which is other wife cuffcomary amongft the
Turks when they fee a Chriflian, efpecially a
ftranger, I f;aw and heard myfelf called and taken
notice of as Hekim Packi : however, I had not this
complaifance for nothing. Mufelem, as the chief
of the town, began very carefully to think about
his health ; which was not only followed by his fer-
vants, but by all in the town whom I had occafion
to converfe with. It is common enough amongft:
the Turks, and even Greeks, to be fick as often as
they have an opportunity of fpeaking to a phyfi-
cian. Mod: of them are fubje6i: to the hypochon-
driac diforders; and as this difeafe always occafions
perfons to be fufpicious of their health, efpecially
in the country, and in little towns, where they feldom
have an opportunity of conveding with them who

can

T O S M Y R N A. 41

can give them any fatisfa^llon, it is no wonder they
fliould be curious, and that a phyiician ihould be
both welcome and employed. There is no occafion
to defire to feel the pulfe. The firft thing the per-
fon does who confuks a doctor, is to put forward his
naked arm. I know not where they leariied this, as
perhaps neither they, nor their fathers before
them, ever appeared before a phyfician capable
of judging by the pulfe. If I may guefs, I fliould
think it tranfmitted by the parents to their ofF-
fpring, and to have been jBrfl introduced by that
great phyfician who lived here, and put fuch great
and jufl confidence in the pulfe. It is not difficult
to imagine that the great doftor from Stanchio
(Cous) to acquire perfeft experience, on which he
built his fcience, here introduced the cuftom, that,
when any difeafed perfon confulted him he felt his
pulfe, which he taught his difciples ; of whom the peo-
ple learned it, and have retained it to this day
without knowing the reafon ; in the fame manner
as hath happened with religious ceremonies amongil
fome nations, who now, tho' they ftill ufe them,
know not whence or why they were introduced,
thofe who introduced and propagated them having
through the change of times been extirpated. I
gave my Mufelem fome medicines I had taken with
me from Sweden in order to fi:rengthen his ftomach,
A Seraglio of fifteen women, which at fo early
an age he kept, was enough to hurt it ; but I would
not advife any phyfician, who may chance to be in my
fituation, and is confulted by a Turkilh grandee, to
tell him this, as he might perhaps become a martyr
to truth. It is beil to think and do what appears
to be of fervice, and talk as little as pofiible. By
way of recompence he gave me, as Lord of the

Town^

42 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Town, liberty to go whither I pleafed, and pro-
iiiifed to take care that the mountains and places
where I intended to botanize (liould be clear,
which I efteemed the befl: reward I could defire.

The Greek and Armenian churches kept this
week (April 12) holy. They ufe the Old Style
as we do in Sweden ; but our Celfian amendment
of the Swedilh almanack brings ourEafter ^nd Lent
at the fame time with the Roman Catholics and others
that follow the New Style. The ceremonies, which
certainly make the greatell part of the divine wor-
fliip amongft the Chriilians here, v/ere better to be
feen this week than at any other time, becaufe now
they were to be more devout. They all tend, and
were by the ancients evidently inftituted, to fliew
and reprefent all which the Scriptures hiftorically
tell us of Chrifl's fuiferings, refurrection and his
great works. On Thurfday preceding Good Fri^
day, was celebrated a commemoration of Chrifl's
wailiing the difciples feet, in both churches.
On Good Friday, they reprefented the burial
according the Scriptures. On Eafter, was per-
fonally fliewn the Refurre^lion of Chrift ; however,
the perfon of our Saviour was not reprefented by
any body, but painted on a table with an enfign
in his hand, which was carried by priefts. The
, Greeks have likewife proceffions, but dare not go
farther than round the church, though the Roman
Catholics go through all French-Street, from the
Capuchins to the Jefuits Convent. They have this
liberty as fubjects of European powers; but the
Grecians are not allowed, as they are fubjefts of the
Turkifh Emperor. I faw the ceremony of wafliing
the feet performed by the Greek Bifhop at 1 1
o'clock in the forenoon, in their largefl church St.
Pholini, which was done in this manner : After mafs
had been read in the veflry, where the priefts and

Billiop

T O S M Y R N A. 43

Bifliop alone had taken the Lord's Supper, there
came forth twelve priefts dreffed in habits of cere-
mony ; ihey had mitres on their heads covered with
jcrape, which is the head drefs of the Greek priefts.
Thefe took their places on a fquare flage raifed three
Heps from the ground, and feated therafelves on two
benches, fix on each fide. The Bifhop foon fol-
lowed dreffed in his epifcopal habit, with two, if not
three, palls and fmall bells hanging to them, and a
Biiliop's mitre of gilt filver and richly fet with pre-
cious ftones. He niounted the theatre and took a
a front place, fo as to have his Abbots before him
on each fide. At the fame time an aged man that
had been Bifhop in another place, but depofed by
the Turks, afcended the pulpit which was oppofite
to the ftage, dreffed in a pall, accompanied by four
priefts, and had with him the writings of the Evan-
gelifts wrote in folio in literal Greek, and bound
magnificently in filver. So foon as he had left his
epifcopal chair, I was permitted to feat myfelf in it
by fome of the chief of the Greeks, whence I could
plainly fee all the ceremonies. Any one that will
reprefent to himfelf the Bifliop as Chrift, and the
twelve priefts as the twelve Apoftles, and then read
the account the Evangelifts give us of this act,
may eafily conceive how all was conduced. The
prieft in the pulpit read the hiftory of Chrift's
wafliing the difciples feet; and as faft as he read
what Chrift did, the other imitated. There was
even occafion for Judas to be prefent to make up
the number; but no prieft will voluntarily take
upon him to aft his perfon if he is not paid for
his trouble; wherefore he that takes upon him to
reprefent the perfon of Judas for a little while, re-
ceives fifteen piaftres. It would be but of fmall confe-
quence, if he had only the name of Judas during the
pme his feet are waftied, but he commonly retains

'it

44 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

it for life. Peter politely refufed when that part of
the text was read which concerned him, wherefore
eleven only were wafhed. The Billiop again put on
his pall, and finiflied with a bleiling, after he had
waflied, dried, and kiifed the feet of his meanefl
brethren; and they in return had the honour to
kifs his head or rather mitre, with which the fcene
concluded. During the whole fcene, many large and
fmall wax candles, and a prodigious number of lamps
were burning. TheBifliop held three fmall wax can-
dles, and each prieft held one. The congregation
fung in chorufes their hymns, but in their Greek
method, which is the mofl: pitiful that can be heard,
Noife and riot, which proceeded even to blows on
the head, were not wanting whilft this fcene lafted.
In a Greek church the people cannot fleep, which
often happens in the churches of other perfuafions,
as thefe are obliged to ftand up, and be in a con-^
flant motion by croffmg and bowing ; but they fall
into the other extreme, and are too much awake
going out of church. I faw the Greeks receive the
Lord's Supper. Married priefls only receive with
their own hands the bread and wine, which is given
them by the Billiop. This was alfo done, as I have
already noticed, before the wafliing of the feet.
The bread was of wheat, thick, hard, in fmall cakes
of three inches diameter, and feemed to be of the
kind the European mafters of velfels have baked in
Smyrna for fliip-bread, which otherwife never is ufed
by the inhabitants of the country. The cake was by
the Biiliop broke into fmaller bits, which were taken
by the priefts that flood round the altar, who bit off
a piece and took the wine, which was likewife given
them by the Billiop. The people received the commu-
nion from a prieft after the waflimg of the feet. He
ftood in a little chapel befide the veftry,. and through

a window

TO SMYRNA. 45

a window reached out to them the Sacrament. He
had bread and wine mixt together in a lilver cup, of
which he gave a tea fpoonful to every body that
advanced. This was done as the people were pref-
fing out of the church. The confeffion had been
before made, which is done here as in the Latin
church, each confeffing by himfelf (Confeffio Au-
ricularis). The Greek church enjoins children to
be confeifed as foon as they can fpeak, and they
even give them the Lord's Supper. The Armenians
performed this a£l in the afternoon; but it was far
from making the appearance which that of the Gre-
cians did. It was done before the altar in the
church by one of their chief priefts, as they have
no Biihop living here, but are fubordinate to the
Bifhops of other congregations w^ho now and then
vilit them. Mafs v/as firft read; the priefl was
drelTed in a pall, and had an epifcopal mitre of
filver ; he feated himfelf on a carpet ; before him
flood a chair, in which fuch as were to be waflied
feated themfelves one by one. The firll that Avere
wafhed were twelve priefts, but the humility was
carried farther than with the Greek's ; for here the
whole congregation had this liberty, without dif-
tinguifliing the richeft merchant from the lowefl
fervant of the flable, of which two conditions this
congregation chiefly confifts. The priefts waflied
and dried the feet, and anointed them with frefli
butter, which they faid was made out of the firft
milk of a young cow. The perfon waflied and
anointed kiiled the prieft's head, went chearfully
away, and made room for another, which they told
me would laft a good part of the night. On each
fide of the prieft was a number of people, old and
young, who fung in the fame difagreable tone as
the Greeks had done ; but in the literal Armenian

tongue,

4^ TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

tongue^ which is likewife ufed in their public wor-
ftiip, and differs as much from the Armenian they
commonly fpeak as the literal Greek does from the
modern Greek. They had lefs regard to order and
decency here than amongft the Greeks. He that
came iirft began to fmg ; and if any thing was to be
done, as dreffing and undreffmg the prieft, lighting
the candles, &c. they ran to and fro without order.
They had not fo many lights in proportion to the
fize of the church> which is large, handfome and
magnificent, and by far furpaifes the Greek church.
The fair fex never ihewthemfelves openly in any of
the Chriftian churches in the Eaft, or mix amongft
the men; but are always prefent in the church,
where they have galleries for themfelves, before
which are fixed lattices through which they may fee
all that paiTes in the church, but cannot be feen.

The burial of our Saviour was celebrated by the
Greeks in the afternoon of the 1 3th. The daughters
of Eve have, by virtue of the Evangelic Hiftory, re-
ferved this ceremony to themfelves, which is but
right, as nature has made them propereft for what
is here required, namely, to weep. I know not how
many there were that fulfilled their duty, as I dared
not to go there. Their bowlings were difagreable
enough at a di (lance, and nothing amiable could
be feen, as they were veiled.

The Armenians had a large and magnificent mafs
on the afternoon of the 14th, Eafler eve, at which
I was prefent. In the choir beneath the altar was
placed a de/k, on which were laid the books of the
Evangelifls, wrote in literal Armenian, bound in
foho in red and gold tiiTue. On one fide of the deflc
was placed an armed chair, which was occupied by
the chief prieft (who was to dire£l the aft inflead of
the Bilhop) drelTed in his black prieftly habit, and a

cowl.

TO S M Y It N A. 47

cowl. On each fide of him fat a prieil on the floor*
drelfed in the fame habit. Six married priefts went
forward to the pulpit, one after the other, fome of
which read, others chanted, foraething out of a
booL They were dreifed in their black prieflly
habits, and when they began theiroffice, a handfome
pall was put on them. On each fide of the pulpit
flood a prieft, having a pall and mitre, who held
fome wax candles, near whom were fome boys
drelfed in white furplices adorned with crolfeSi
When thefe had made the round, twelve handfome
young men came up to the fame place drelfed in
white furplices, which reached to the ground,
adorned on the back and ileeves with red croifes.
They were bare-headed, fnaved to the ears, and
the crown bald like the Romifli Monks. As far as
I could learn, fome of thefe were difciples to the
clergy, the others common fervants, but who had
the advantage to have been at the hallowed places
near Jerufalem, and acquired the name of Hadgi.
They were all handfome and well-made youths,
and feeraed to be fitter to be under the command of
a Colonel than a Bilhop. They kiifed the Vice-
Bifhop's arm as they went forward, and obferved
the fame at their return. Each of them chanted or
read fomethiiig out of a book, in the fame manner
as the former ; and betwixt each of their chanting,
one of the priefts who fat on the floor rofe up, and
repeated fome words thrice over. I underftood not
what they were, but was told they were Gloria.
Their fong ended, one of them that had before
chanted mounted one of the (leps, and flood before
the altar, which was hid by a curtain. After he
had chanted a piece out of the fame book, the vocal
and inftrumental mufic began below the altar. The
latter confided of fmall iron pipes, not unlike a kind

of

48 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

of dulcimer, which were ftruck againft one another;
and two round brafs plates, which were, according to
true time, {truck together. This is Turkifti mufiG,
and does not found very bad in a fong. At certain
times fmall bells might be heard. After the mufic
had lafted awhile, the curtain which hid the niche
of the altar was opened, when an old venerable
priefl was to be feen, having on a gilt epifcopal
mitre adorned with precious flones, (landing a fmall
diflance from the altar. On each fide of him flood
a priefl in black habit, and nearer to him flood the
pricfts who had before been at the pulpit with the
incenfe pot and candles in his hands. The priell
began to chant and give benedidlons, which were
anfwered with fmging and mufic by the congrega-
tion. A little while after the Sacrament was brought
forth from a little clofet behind the altar. It was
borne by one of the above-mentioned difciples,
who carried It as high as his head, and placed it on
the altar. At the fame time came another, who
took the mitre off the prieft, who was now to pro-
nounce a benediftlon over the Sacrament and ex-
hibit it to the congregation. Every one lighted the
candles, which were before diftributed through the
whole church for money, and were large and nu-
merous. Two were lighted at a time, as fad as the
ceremony advanced. The largeft, which flood on
the front of the altar, and were about fix inches
diameter, were feemingly lighted when the Sacra-
ment was blelTed. It was however not they that
burned, but fmaller candles fixed to the top were
lighted in their (lead. The priefls chanted and the
congregation fung, until the fcene was concluded.
The priefls on each fide had a plate faflened to a
long flaff, with which they made a tinkling when
any thing of confequence was performing j nor did

the

TO SMYRNA. 49

the pflefl with the incenfe pot omit his duty, for he
often waved and diftributed his odours both towards
the akar and choir. The curtain at length was let
down, to fignify that all was ended, and for every one
to return home. On each fide of the principal altar
were two fmaller, on which no ceremonies were per-
formed; but in a handfome large chapel without
the church, there was mafs read by other priefts,
for thofe who had not room in the church.

The 15th, Eafler-day, the feftival of the Arme-
nians and Greeks began. The manner in which it-
was celebrated by the latter was worth notice, as it
teftified how much this nation retains of its former
inclinations for diffolute diverfions at feflivals. He
that knows what is related about Bachanals, &c. of
their anceftors, may here fee the remains of them
in their offspring. They purchafe from their
mafters the Turks, the liberty of purfuing their
pleafures uncontrouled ; for which they pay to their
Mufelem in Smyrna one purfe (500 pieces of eight);
but in Conftantinople they give five or fix purfes. In
confideration of this, they are at liberty, iu their
houfes and in the ftreets, to get drunk, fight, dance,
play, and do every thing their hearts defire. An
Eafler feldom palfes in Conftantinople, without
fome perfons being murdered. There was a high
mafs in both churches on the night before Eafter.
This concluded about midnight; and fcarce was it
ended, before the whole congregation cried X^iro?
dvis-vi, becaufe then their great and long fad had
ended, wherefore they in that very moment begsn
to eat of what they had taken to church with them;
and having begun their joy in church, they ruflied
out, in order to return with pleafure to their ordi-
nary food; and this ib violently, tha^-am perfuaded
many received raiferable Eafter Wrks, who were
1^ juil;

50 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

JLift beginning their joy. A high mafs and magni-
ficent procelTion was performed by the Billiop of St.
Trinity church about noon on Eafler day, to the
honour of our Saviour's refurreftion. There was
nothing wanting in point of magnificence and fliew,
which could attract the attention' of the audience.

The 1 6th and 17 th, nothing was to be heard
but the Greeks Eafter frohcks, in the flreets and
alleys, houfes and yards. They ftrove, efpecially
the mob, who lliould eat and drink moft. They
danced their Greek dances through Frank-ilreet,
after bagpipes, drums, and inllruments unknown
to us, but neither fo tuneful or agreeable as
to merit much attention. They had a fort made of
the peritoneum of oxen, fpread on a circle of ^wood,
which they beat with their fingers. They invent
feveral tricks to get money from thofe that chufe to
look on, to defray the expences for liquors. Amongll
the refl, I faw one who could ballance fo well with
his head, as to fet a large bottle of wine on it, on
which he laid a roll, upon this a glafs of water, in
which he put a ix)fe bufh, and with thefe he danced
through the whole ftreet, hopp'd and kept good
tim.e. In their fongs they often cried X^ifog dvis-y\.
No murder was heard of, this feftival, as the Bifliop
had oh Eafter-eve ufed the precaution to declare
him excommunicated, who fl:iould, during the holi-
days, carry a knife or piflol about him. The Ar-
menians are a more fedate and wife people, and
don't celebrate their holidays with fuch fuperfluities.
I never faw them dance, drink, or make a noife in
the flreets; but if they divert themfelves, it is done
in fome houfe or chan, where the Armenian fervants
affemble and enjoy innocent diverfions, or a
company ride out on horfeback, in which they

greatly

T O S M Y R N A. 51

greatly delight, and fliew that they inherit of
their forefathers the art of good horfemanfliip.

Sedekio near Smyrna, is a remarkable place,
becaufe the great Sherard, who in his time was Re^
gent of the Botanic world, here gave Flora a feat,
wherefore it cannot but be viewed with plea-
fure by a Botanifl. I determined to vifit this place
on the 20th. This great lover and patron of Bo-
tany fpent his time agreeably here every furamer,
during his flay in Smyrna as Conful from England.
I have feen the houfe where he hath enjoyed the
greateft pleafure of perhaps any European that
ever was in this country, when he employed his
time in making the great Botanical colleftions, by
which he rendered himfelf immortal. Near the
houfe is a little garden laid out by him, "in which he
introduced no foreign plants, nor was at great pains
in adorning it. He knew it was better to fpend
his time and money on fuch matters in his native
country, than in a barbarous place, in which his
flay was fo uncertain.

E 2 ALEX-

52 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

ALEXANDRIA.

AY the 15 th, I rode out to fee the gardens
of Alexandria, which were the firfl places I
faw after my arrival. I procured an equipage
which I had never ufed before. It was an afs with
an Arabian faddle, which confided only of a cufliion
on which I could fit, and a handforae bridle. On
each fide of the afs walked an Arab, and another
followed, who took care to help me along. The
beaft Vv^as one of the handfomeft to be feen of the
kind, lively and well kept. I here miffed the ad-
vantage I had a fortnight before of riding on horfe-
back. The great opinion Turks have of themfelves,
and contempt for Chriftians, Jews, and Moors, are
in Egypt very evident ; of which this is a proof, that
they never permit any of the above-mentioned peo-
ple to ride on a horfe, which they efleem too noble
a creature to bear fuch defpicable wretches, and
which ought only to ferve a Mufelman. A few
Arabs or Moors, who are in forae efleem, lawyers
or the like, are permitted to ride on a mule. The
Chrifllans laugh at this foolifh behaviour, which is
only the height of flupidity. Since cuflom has in-
troduced the ufe of thefe creatures, they can fcarcely
be deemed defpicable : but on the contrary, one
may in fome meafure be well fatisfied with this in-
ftitution. No town has better conveniences of

going

TO ALEXANDRIA. 53

going from place to place than Cairo or Alexandria.
The ilreets are almoft all full of alTes. A perfon
who chufes not to walk, mounts the afs he likes
beft, and gets on apace. For one, two, at the moft
three para, he may ride through the whole town.
The Moors own thefe beads, and value them high
enough. Few would imagine that they pay more
for fuch a miferable beaft, than a fine horfe cofts in
Europe or here. The perfon who owned that I
rode on, faid it cofl him 20 ducats, and that he
would not take double the money for it, as it fup-
ported him. In the place I had hitherto refided, I
had walked in gardens of Lemon, Orange, Fig and
Mulberry trees. I had feen whole fields filled with
the fined vines. 1 had travelled through forefts of

O

Olive-trees, and reded myfelf in the agreeable
groves of CyprefTes ; but I faw not one of thefe
Eadern glories in Egypt. Here I met a garden
filled with other forts of plants, which the Creator
hath given to the Southern countries. Palm or
Date trees now defended us with their agreeable
fhade. I began immediately to enquire of the in-
habitants what they knew concerning the quaiities
of this vegetable, in order to encreafe the hidory of
them, which is yet fo defective araongd Botanids :
As whether they knew any thing about a male and
female of the Dates, and their fecundation? But the
French interpreter interrupted m^y enquiries by
changing the difcourfe.

The gothj at two o'clock in the morning, I left
Alexandria in a little boar. At 1 2 o'clock I came
into the opening of the Nile that leads to Rofetta,
where it is about a cannon fliot over. The fliores
were at fird dry and covered with fand ; but farther
Vip the country, which is level, they were full of
fine Palni^-^r^es. Tiie ihores afterwards begame nar-

S 3 rawer,

54 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

rower, and were elegantly adorned with Rullies and
the fineil Rice-fields ; yet farther in were clofe
Palm-woods. We failed by two fmaii caflles. Some
villages lay on our left hand, fituated on Delta.
Dolphins and PorpoilTes tumbled about in the water.
I came at two o'clock to Rofetta, and was well re-
ceived by the French Conful Du Salauze. Towards
evening I went out in the fields, which had been fowii
with Rice eight days before. The Rice was three
inches high; the water flood four fingers high on the
ground, and was raifed by wheels worked by
oxen, and conducted on the fields in channels. Tliis
is done during the time the Rice grows and ripens.
I heard a found which feemcd artificial; for example,
as if fomebody had knocked together hard wooden
flicks. I ailvcd . what it was, and was told that my-
riads of little frogs which kept under water emitted
this found. We were on the road perfecuted by two
kinds pf creatures of different nature, tho' both in-
tended to hurt us ; they were Gnats and Buflaloes.
The latter efpecially feemed to be angry with me
and the interpreter I had with me, as we were
dreffed in red. Our JanifTary was obliged to drive the
animals from us with his cudgel. Under the Turkifli
Government one mufl always be ready for attack and
fence. The people in Rofetta are tolerably civil ;
therefore a perfon is in no danger of being attacked
by them. Our other-enemies, the Gnats, tho' they
were much weaker, yet could not be fubdued
by this guard. Their num.ber made them intoler-
able and invincible. The Rice-fields, becaufe they
are conft:antly under water, occafion a fwampy
ground, fit for the fupport of thefe vermin, and in
thefe they lay their eggs. They were a different
fort from thofe we have in Europe, being lefs ; but
bit worfe, and left great boils in the ikin, with an in-
tolerable

TO ALEXANDRIA. ss

tolerable itching in the place they bit. They are
quite different from thofe I fawat Alexandria, which
were as larsre as we have them in Sweden, but of a
different colour, namely, aili-coloured with white
fpots on the joints of the legs.

The nth of June, I faw at Mr. Bai'ton's, the
Englifh Conful, Tamarinds which clofed their leaves
every evening towards fun-fet. A variety of a Cat
head, foraething more oblong than in the common
Cats. She was of a confiderable fize, being the
length of five fpans, three and a half high, and two and
a quarter broad. This fort is found in Egypt. I got
forae information concerning Sal Armoniac, and how
it is made in Egypt in large quantities. It is made
of Soot, which is gathered of the burnt dung of
Oxen and Camels, and is carried hence in great
quantities by the Venetians. The manner and place
of making it is kept fecret. The Seine, a me-
dicine which is ufed in Europe, but its hiflory
fcarce known, is a Lizard, found on the Ihcres of
the Nile in Egypt, and even in the houfes up in the
country. It is dried and fold to the Venetians and
Genoefe, who powder it, becaufe then m.ore con-
venient for tranfportation; wherefore it was difficult
to know whence this drug came. The inhabitants
of Egypt in general fear this animal, and few are to
be found that for the fake of gain catch and fell
them to the Europeans. The Egyptians ufe this
drug to excite venery, and of them the Europeans
have without doubt learned to make the fame ufe
of it.

I SHOULD mention fomething concerning the
hatching of Chicken in Egypt. The method the
women ufe is extremely odd. They put the eggs
under the arm pits, and have the patience to keep
them there until they are hatched by the natural

E 4 be.iL

5^ TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

heat of the body. I got fome corals that were
taken in the Red fea.

A WHOLE company of us rode out on afTes on
the 1 2th of June, to take an airing with the Con-
ful. We faw an incredible number of peafants on
the road driving afles laden with dung, and fome
with Saf-flower (Carthamus) which had already
been reaped. Both were defignedfor firing, to fup-
piy which article every thing is taken in Egypt,
CajfTia fiflula, Oily grain, Bammia, were now in blof-
fom. On our return, we faw a number of women,
who went about inviting people to a banquet, in
a fmgular, and, without doubt, very ancient man-
ner. They were about ten or twelve, covered
with black veils, as is cuftomary in this coun-
try. They were preceded by four eunuchs : after
them, and on the fides, were Moors with their ufual
walking ftafFs. As they were walking they all
joined in making a noife, which I was told fignified
their joy; but I could not find it to referable a joyful
or pleafmg fong. The found was fo fingular, that
I am at a lofs to give thofe an idea that have not
heard it. It was fhrijl, as womens voices commonly
are ; but it had a quavering which was much dif-
tinguifhed, and which they had learned by long
praftice. It was much like the found I heard the
frogs make near Rofetta.

At fix o'clock in the evening, we went with the
French Conful to fee a feftival, which was cele-
brated by a rich Turk, whofe fon was to be circum-
cifed. The father was one of the richeft private
perfons in Egypt; he therefore fpared no coft to
celebrate this fefiival, which is by the Turks done
with all imaginable grandeur. The iefiival lafted
30 days before the circumcifion of the child, and
this was the lafl day. The preparations had been

alike

TO ALEXANDRIA. 57

jilike each day with open table for every body, fire-
works, illuminations, mufic and dancing, &c. We
went to fee the illuminations, which were made in
a large plain before the father's houfe. They were
not like thofe made in Europe ; but were pretty
enough confidering they were made by the inhabit-
ants of this country. They were three : To the
right in a corner of the place was reprefented a
Rhombus, which was terminated by a fquare, the
.corners of which were cut off. To the left in the
other corner was reprefented the machine, in which
the Coran every year is carried to Mecha, when the
caravan with the pilgrims travels thither. Here
were prettily reprefented the carpets raifed and
divided into pinnacles, with the Camel that bore
them. In the middle or near the houfe of the
Turk, at whofe expence this fellival was celebrated,
was a large portico ; the whole was conftrufled of
lamps hung on cords, without any other building.
The fireworks confifted chiefly in a great number of
rockets, which mounted well; fome wheels and
fountains, with two boys who had f aliened round
their waifts two machines refembling horfes, out of
which poured forth fire on all fides. It was plea-
fant to fee the people who had aifembled in great
numbers, fit ftill on the field in a ring, without
making the leafl noife, quite contrary to what is
done in Europe on the like occafions. The mufic
was to the tafte of the country, with hautboys
and kettle-drums. They brought us Coffee, which
was of the beft kind, and Carpets in cafe we woul4
fit down. It was believed that the expences of this
circumcifion amounted to 8000 ducats. Thefe ex-
pences are in a great meafure paid by the large
prefents he receives from all his friends. It was.
rumoured that this man had received twenty or
I thirty

58 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

thirty camels laden with prefents. On fuch occa-
fions, all thofe that depend on him mud fliew their
duty with fome prefents, which confift in camels,
iheep, oxen, or fomething of the kind that belongs
to their eftate.

About noon on the 2 2d of June, appeared fome
Egyptian dancers under the windows of the French
houfe, where I had an opportunity of feeing them.
Each country hath its peculiar pleafures, which from
times immemorial have been adapted to the people's
difpofitions. The Egyptians, inclined to a loofe life,
are pleafed with the tricks and inventions of thefe
common dancers, as they are entirely adapted to ex-
cite fenfual defires. It is furpriling, that in a country
where all other women are locked up and guarded,
thefe fhould be permitted by the government, not
only to {hew themfelves to the people, but even to
appear in the commoneft, and, as we Europeans
fhould think, moft unbecoming habits and geftures.
Thofe that follow this pradice, and by it acquire
money, are young country laffes, and fometimes
married women, all dark-brown, and little better
than naked, being dreifed in a blue linnen garment
adorned with different kinds of bells, together with
a parcel of hollow filver machines which ring when
they move themfelves, and make part of the mufic
that ferves them in their folly. They were veiled
according to the cuflom of the country, with a cover-
ing which only left an opening for the eyes, and
hang loofe over the face, which they adorned with
all forts of tinkling pieces of brafs, filver, and even
gold if they could afford it. They feldom appeared
barefaced, but made no fcruple to difclofe thofe
parts which our European ladies never expofe to
public view, though they iliew their faces without
blulliing. It is a cuitom introduced in later times,

which

TO ALEXANDRIA. S9

which the greatefl part of the old men imagine as
unbecoming as we think it ridiculous when we fee
it, but retained to this day by their offspring in the
Eaft. The mufic they ufed on this occalion, befide
their rattHng-fluff, was a kind of drum with one
head, or parchment extended on a wooden circle,
which a woman beat with her fingers; and a kind
of violin with two firings to it, which founded more
like a wind inftrument than a violin.

About noon on the 23d, I faw a burial, which
was one of the mofli remarkable procelTions in the
country. It was a Scheik, for fo they call the Law-
yers of the Moors and Arabs. This man was up-
wards of eighty years of age ; who by a pious and
honefl life had acquired much love whilfl; living,
and was greatly lamented when he died. It was
thought that he had acquired fo much refpeft by a
virtuous life, as to be pronounced a Saint at his
burial, which is cuilomary amongft the Mahome-
tans as well as Chriftians. He had been warden of
a Mofque lituated in the Chriilian quarter; where-
fore he had an opportunity of making himfelf known
and efteemed by the Chriftians, to whom he did
good fervices on thofe occafions wherein they needed
his alTiilance, which is very necelfary in a tyrannical
country. Thefe Scheiks conilantly endeavour to
gain the confidence of the populace, by which they
make themfelves necelfary and even dangerous to
the Tarkiili Regency, as being capable of railing
a mob.

The proceffion was as follows: An old worthy
Dervice marched foremoft, bearing an enfign, fucli
as they have on the Minarits of their Moiques at
feftivals. On each fide of him walked a confider-
able Moor : An innumerable croud of people fol-
lowed, all men, without any order, fome lining the

flreets.

<5o TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

flreets. Amongft thefe were feme Scheiks who
carried enfigns. Then came the corpfe laid in a
miferable coffin without a lid, covered with a piece
of coarfe linnen. After which followed a pretty
large number of v/omen, all veil'd with their cufto-
niary black garments. Some men carrying enfigns
and walking in ranks clofed the proceiTion. All the
men cried with a loud voice, and called to God in
behalf of the deceafed and themfelves, which occa-
fioned a terrible and difagreeable npife ; but the
women made the fame noife I heard when they in-
vited to a banquet. It is fmgular enough that they
fhould not rather fmg mournful tunes : I ailced the
reafon, and was anfwered, they imagined that joy
agreed better than fadnefs when a righteous man
died, at whofe happy ilate every body ought to be
well pleafed. At other burials in Cairo I faw wo-
men lamenting. It was extremely odd to fee how
anxious every one was to touch the corpfe. It was
with miuch trouble the bearers advanced, on ac-
count of the number of people that thronged upon
them to enjoy this benefit. After they had touched
the corpfe, they raifed their hands to their fore-
head, at the fame time lifting up their eyes very de-
voutly. The proceffion went through the ftreet
where the French have their houfe, as the deceafed
was to be carried to a Mofque at the end of the
ftreet. This was very difagreeable to the Mufel-
men who attended, on account of the Chriflians be-
holding their devotion; and for every bleifmg they
bellowed upon the dead, they uttered a curfe againll
the enemies of their faith. Conjurers are com-:
mon in Egypt. They are peafants from the coun-
try, who come to Cairo to earn money this way.
I faw one the 24th, who was expert enough, and
in dexterity ec^ualled thofe we have in Eurppej

but

TO ALEXANDRIA. 6i

but the Egyptians C9.n do ;one thing the Europeans .
are not able to imitate; namely, fafcinate fer-
pents. They take the mod poifonous vipers with
their bare hands, play with them, put them in their
bofoms, and uie a great many more tricks with them,
as I have often feen. The perfon I faw on the above
day, had only a Imall viper ; but I have frequently
feen them handle thofe that were three or four feet
long, and of the mod horrid fort. I enquired and
examined whether they had cut out the vipers poi-
fonous teeth ; but I have with my own eyes feen
they do not ; we may therefore conclude that there
are to this day Pfylli in Egypt; but what art they
ufe is not eafily known. Some people are very fu-
perftitious; and the generality believe this to be done
by fome fupernatural art, which they obtain from
invifible Beings. I do not know whether their power
is to be afcribed to good or evil; but I am per-
fuaded that thofe who undertake it ufe many fuper-
ilitions. I fhall hereafter give a plainer defcrip-
tion, with fome obfervations on this fubjeft.

The 2d of July, I waited on the Greek Pa-
triarch, who hath his feat here inftead of Alex-
andria, and is the fucceflbr of St. Athanafms. He
was a pious man, of about fixty years of age, feemed
to underfland the principles of his religion well, and
was greatly inclined to the Evangelical doftrine. He
fpoke no language but the Greek, and was dreffed
in the habit of the Greek clergy. I went after-
wards to the Coptite Patriarch, an Egyptian of the
Cophtite nation, abont forty years old. He was not
to be diftinguifhed by his habit, vv^hich was fuch as
are worn by an Arab or Turk. He was very po-
lite, and was employed at ray arrival in adjuiting dif-
ferences between his followers ; being in matters of
fraall confequence a Judge, or, in virtue of his office,

a Mediator.

6i TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

a Mediator. He ordered fome perfons to (liew me
his Patriarchal church : the entrance to it was in a
narrow dark ftreet, through a miferable little gate,
which indeed was only a hole cut through a brick
wall. The church confilled of two ftories; the
under ilory being pretty large divided into five
rooms, with clofets that went acrofs, one joining
the other. In the foremofl flood the altar in a
niche under an arch, on which lay a manufcript
Ritual in the Cophtite language. The clofet with-
out this room was elegant enough, and well con-
ftructed after the tafle of the country, with coftly
woods from India in all parts inlaid with large
croffes and other ornaments of ivory. On the altar
flood a few candleilicks, which partook of the fim-
plicity of the firll church. The feet of them were
of Sycamore; and a fmall bough of the fame tree
ferved for an arm or pipe, to the fide of which the
candle was faflened: from the cieling hung feveral
lamps, the cords of which were adorned with
Oilriches eggs : on the walls were a parcel of
painted pannels ; the Virgin Mary with the infant
Jefus ; St. George on horfeback, fighting with the
dragon ; St. Antony, with a great many more of
their Saints, were reprefented in the ancient manner
of painting. Among the reft of the pannels fome
naked women were painted ; which they faid were
in remembrance of fome Indians, by their church
regarded as Saints. There were no carved images.
It was remarkable to fee amongft other things in
their church, a number of crutches, made of un-
barked boughs of Sycamore and other trees, about
three feet long, and of moderate thicknefs, with a
crofs at the upper end about a foot long. A parcel
of them ftood in the choir or foremoft room, and in
every other place in the church; but. in the room
2 neareft

TO ALEXANDRIA. 63

nearefl the door, lay thoufands of thefe flafFs. I en-
quired for what ufe they were defigned ; and was
anfwered by a Cophti, that in former times, in
the beginning of the church, the Chriftians had ufed
them for arms, to defend themfelves from their ene-
mies when they came upon them during divine fer-
vice; and from that time it has been cuflomary for
every ©ne to have fuch a ftaif during the time mafs
is read ; which now ferve only to lean on with the
arms, for which they are commodious and neceffary
in a church where no benches are to be feen.

The 3d. Now was the time to catch all forts of
Snakes to be met with in Egypt, the great heats
bringing forth thefe vermin : 1 therefore made pre-
paration to get as many as I could, and at once re-
ceived four different forts, which I have defcribed
and preferved in Aqua Vit^e. Thefe were the com-
mon Viper, the Cerafles of Alpin, Jaculus, and an
Anguis marinus. They were brought me by a
Pfilli, who put me, together with the French Conful
Lironcourt and all the French nation prefenr, in
conflernation. They gathered about us to fee how
ftie handled the moll poifonous and dreadful crea-
tures alive and brifk, without their doing or even
offering to do her the leafl harm. "vYhen llie put
them into the bottle where they were to be pre-
ferved, file took them with her bare hands, and
handled them as our ladies do their laces. She had
no difficulty with any but the Vipers Ofiicinales,
which were not fond of their lodging. They found
means to creep out before the bottle could be
corked. They crept over the hands and bare arms
of the woman, without occafioning the leail fear in
her ; Ihe with great calranefs took the fnakes from
her body, and put them into the place deftined for
their grave. She had taken thefe Serpents in the

field

6^ TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

field with the fame cafe flie handled them before
us ; this we were told by the Arab who brought her
to us. Doubtlefs this woman had fome unknown
art which enabled her to handle thofe creatures.
It was impoffible to get any information from
her; for on this fubjeft llie would not open her lips.
The art of fafcinating Serpents is a fecret amongft
the Egyptians. It is worthy the endeavours of all
naturalifls, and the attention of every traveller, to
learn fomething decifive relative to this affair.
How ancient this art is amongft the Africans, may
be concluded from the ancient Marii and Pfylli, who
Were frcm Africa, and daily fliewed proofs of it at
Rome. It is very remarkable that this fhould be
kept a fecret for more than 2000 years, being known
only to a few, when we have feen how many other
fecrets have within that time been revealed. The
circumflances relating to the fafcination of Serpents
in Egypt related to me, were principally, i. That
the art is only known to certain families, who propa-
gate it to their offspring. 2. The perfon who knows
how to fafcinate Serpents, never meddles with other
poifonous animals ; fuch as Scorpions, Lizards, &c.
There are different perfons who know how to faf-
cinate thefe animals ; and they again never meddle
with Serpents. 3. Thofe that fafcinate Serpents
eat them both raw and boiled, and even mal<:e broth
of them, which they eat very commonly amongfl
them ; but in particular, they eat fuch a difli when
they go out to catch them. I have even been told
that Serpents fried or boiled^ are frequendy eat by
the Arabians, both in Egypt and Arabia, though
they know not how to fafcinate them, but catch
them either alive or dead. 4. After they have eat
their foup, they procure a bleffing from their Sckeik
(Priefl or Lawyer) who ufes fome fuperftitious cere-
monies.

TO ALEX AN D R I A. 6s

monies, and amongft others, fpits on theni feveral
times with certain geftures. This matter of getting
a bleffing from the Priefl is pure fuperflition, and
certainly cannot in the lead help to fafcinate Ser-
pents ; but they believe, or will at lead perfuade
others, that the power of fafcinating Serpents de-
pends upon this circumftance. We fee by this, that
they know how to make ufe of the fame m^eans ufed
by other nations ; namely, to hide under the fuper-
ftitious cloak of religion, what may be eafily and
naturally explained, efpecially when they cannot or
will not explain the natural reafon. I am inclined
to think that all which was formerly, and is yet
reckoned witchcraft, might come under the fame ar-
ticle with the fafcination of Serpents. The difco-
very of a fmall matter may in time teach every body
to fafcinate Serpents ; and then this power may be
exercifed by thofe who have not got it from the
hands of a holy Scheik, jiifl as the heat would na-
turally hatch chicken in an Egyptian oven; whether
a Scheik did or did not lay himfelf naked on it, when
the eggs are'jufl put in; yet to this ceremony do
the fuperft itious Egyptians afcribe the happy event
of the chicken being hatched, when they are aiked
the reafon. I have been told of a plant with which
they anoint or rub themfelves before they touch the
Serpents ; but I have not hitherto received the leall
defcription of it, therefore I regard it as fabulous^*

* Mr. Jacquin, in a letter to Sir Charles Linnsus, fays, that
the Indians in the Weft-Indies charm Serpents with the Arilto-
lochia Anguiceda ; and the late Mr. Forfkohl on his travels to the
Eaft, likewife informed Dr. Linnsus, that the Egyptians ufe a
fpecies of Arillolochia (Birthwort) but does not determine which
ipecies it is.

F From

66 TRiVVELS TO THE EAST.

From Cairo to the Egyptian

PyR A MIDS.

I Left Cairo at four o'clock in the afternoon of the
17 th, accompanied by a Janiffary and my fer-
vant. I had befides for companions a traveller, born
in Aleppo, and bred at the court of the German
Emperor, who was entitled a Baron, furnamed Bur-
kana, and had lately arrived from Rome j a Geor-
gian Chriftian, who was a phyfician here, and a
Jew Rabbi from Nuremberg. We all rid on alTes.
After we had rid through the miferable, narrow,
foggy, and unpaved flreets of Cairo, we came into
a pretty fpacious and uninhabited plain, which re-
fembied a little defart; but with this difference, that
fome Sycomore and Tamarilks adorned this dry and
fandy plain with their green leaves.

We afterwards came to Old Cairo, which is a
fuburb to Cairo. We faw fome large, and accord-
ing to the tafte of this country, handfome houfes, as
we paffed by, which are the fummer habitations of
the Turkifli grandees. Adjoining to each was a
large, handfome, and fpacious garden, with fine trees
of Caffia, Acacia, Plaintain, Dates, Tamariik, Senfitive
plants, and many others, but all in diforder, being
entirely left to nature. Thefe feats were fituated
4 on

TO THE PYRAMIDS* 67

on the Nile, and were fuch as might certainly pleafe
the poffelTors of thenL

The moft remarkable thing at Old Cairo, was
the place where the depth of the water is taken^
when the Nile encreafes. This is a pretty large
houfe, built in a fquare near the river. Its roof
terminates in a white pyramid : in the foundation
wall are holes, through which the water has a free
entrance : in the middle of the building is erected a
marble obelilk, on which is a fcale of inches. Here
they daily fee whether the river decreafes or in-
creafes, till the water is let into the town and over
the country. The Regency fends fomebody hither
to take the mark every hour; and at this time their
fuperftition will not permit any but Mahometans to
enter it. It was therefore impoffible for us now to
fee the infide of this holy place, but I had an oppor-
tunity of feeing it another time. We went in a flat-
bottom boat over the Nile, with our aifes and all our
equipage, and landed on the other fide at Gifa, one
of the handfomefl villages round Cairo, where they
make Sal-armoniar. We continued our journey to
another village fome diflance from this, where we
lay that night. It gave me fmgular pleafure to fee
the perfeft hufbandry praftifed here, in a level
country, with villages, peafants, women, fields, cat-
tle, hufbandry, utenfils, &c. in them. Egypt re-
ferables entirely our fiat country in Europe. At
this time every thing was like our autumn : the
fields were dry and bare, and in the plains was
fcarce a green leaf to be feen, except in fome places
where the fields were fown with Cucumbers and Se-
famum (oily grain). It is in our winter and fpring,
from December to the month of March, that Egypt
is in its glory ; for then the Nile is confined within
its banks, and the fields are fown. Then a perfon

F 2. ' can

68 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

can fee from a little hill a ftriking refemblance of a
green fea, I mean the verdant earth, without being
able to fee the end. "We came to our quarters, and
were politely received by the Sheick, who was the
principal man in the Village. He ordered us to be
conduced to a large room of a ftone houfe, which
was the property of a Turk in Cairo. After fome
time we got our fupper, which, after the manner of
the country, was fparing. Our Sheick had killed
two kids. In the fame water they were cooked, was
alfo boiled a quantity of wheat-bread to a pudding :
of this they filled two veffels, each as large as two
men could carry. In the middle, and upon the
bread, was boiled rice ; round the edges the meat
was laid, cut into fmall pieces ; the floor ferved for
a table ; a rufli mat for a table cloth ; the palm of
the hand for a fpoon, and the fingers for knives and
forks. A perfon that cannot be fatisfied with this
treatment from Arabs, will fare but indifferently
amongil them : but if he takes in good part the
well-meaning manner in which they treat ftrangers,
I doubt whether more good will, franknefs, and hof-
pitality, is to be met with amongft any nation than
amongfl them. This hath been the manner of their
fathers, whofe hiftory we have in the Scriptures;
and fuch it is to this day, and will remain fo for
ever. We fet out at break of day for the place of
our dellination. After we had travelled an hour
and a half over plains, and near feveral villages, we
came to the Arabian tents, who have their camp
round the Pyramids. Their chief is a Scheck, and
without his permiffion none can approach the Pyra-
iTiids. He fent his eldeft fon out on foot to meet
and welcome us, and he conduced us to a little
houfe, built for travellers, at fome diflance from
their tents. I there ordered him the prefents I had

brought

TO THE PYRAMIDS. 6^

brought with me ; and after he had given us coffee,
we mounted our affes. The Scheck came then him-
felf from his quarters, accompanied by his youngeft
fon, both mounted on excellent horfes, and con-
duced us to the Pyramids. There I learned the
difference between a real and imaginary idea, be-
tween feeing a thing with one's own eyes, or thofe
of others. I had read all the defcriptions travellers
have given of thefe Pyramids ; I had feen drawings
of them ; I had heard them defer ibed by thofe who
had been here : and more than that, I had myfelf
feen them at various diftances fmce I came to Egypt;
but with all this, I knew not what the Egyptian
Pyramids were until I came within twenty yards of
them ; and lefs yet did I know of their inward ap-
pearance until I had been in them. We firil went
round the largeft and handfomeil Pyramid, to con-
template its height, breadth, form and conllruftion.
After the entrance had been opened, and we had
lighted our flambeaus, and difcharged fome piftols
at the entrance, we went in. The Scheck and his
fon faithfully kept clofe to my fide through all the
vaults, walks, and rooms. We went in at feven, and
came out half an hour before nine o'clock. After
we had come out, I began alone, whilft the others
were taking fome refrefliment, to climb up on the
out-fide, and gather what natural ia I there found of
flones and petrifaftions. I chofe the Weft fide, and
kept neareft the left corner, becaufe it was eafieft
there to afcend. I had already got to the middle of
the Pyramid, and between each ftep found fome-
thing worth notice ; when the ftones, heated by the
fun, began to burn through my boots, and therefore
were much lefs to be touched with the hands, which
prevented me for this time from reaching the top,
and obliged me to content myfelf with gathering

F 3 at

70 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

at the foot of it whatever I could find worth notice.
We afterv^ards went to the fmaller Pyramids, round
which I rid, and beheld attentively their appear-
ance. I was determined to know whether ftones
alone muft fatisfy my curiofity, and if a burning
fand had excluded every thing that had life from
this place. If I had not fearched attentively, I
Ihould certainly have been of the opinion, and con-
firmed what I was told in Cairo, that no living crea-
ttire, much lefs a plant, was to be found near the
Pyramids. The earth is of fuch a nature here, that
it would appear to many a miracle, if any animal or
plant could here find nourifhment and fuftenance. I
found however both; namely, one fmgle plant,
which was Gum Succoury(Chondrillajuncea). Of ani-
tnals, I found the little Lizard, which I had every
where feen running on the walls in the Levant, run-
ning here in numbers on the fand. But what moft
pleafed me was a Lion Ant (Hemerobius Formicaleo)
which infects have their own republic. Thefe run
by hundreds in the fand, in the fame manner as
Pifmires. Each held ftone, fand, or rotten bits of
wood between their curious jaws or maxillae, and
haftened with them to the dwellings they had made
in the fand. I fav/ numbers of this infecl's nefts.
They were thrown up in tufts in the fand, about
the bignefs of the two fifts, and a little deprefied at
the top. In the middle of this depreilion was a little
hole, about the bignefs of a fmall pipe flem, through
which they went in and out. I attacked them
within their intrenchments, in hopes of feeing the
inward conflru£lion of their nefts, but I was de-
ceived, and only demoliflied their outworks ; from
which went a private pafl'age, fo artfully conduced,
that it was in vain to endeavour to come to their in-
uermoft dwelling. All the architecture, magnifi-
cence,

TO THE PYRAMIDS. jt

cence, and expence that fliine in the excellent Py-
ramids, cannot give a contemplator of nature fuch
high ideas, as the art of thefe Httle creatures can
excite.

Between the tents of the Arabs and the Pyra-
mids, I faw the dreadful large image, mentioned by
every author. It was now fo much abufed that no-
thing like a face was to be feen. The Arabs, who
as Mahometans fuffer no images, have entirely ruined
the face, by calling their lances at it. It mufl have
been an excellent piece formerly, as the whole image
was cut out of one part of a iimeftone mountain.

We returned to the Arabian tents. I was curious
to fee in perfon their manner of living, of which I
will give a fliort defcription. The Arabians alTem-
ble in certain families, who occupy a place where
they ereft their tents. Thefe chufe a Scheck or
Leader. His office is to compromife quarrels be-
tween them, and lead them on when they are at-
tacked. Their ceconomy is compendious, but quire
fufficient to make life agreeable : they dwell in
tents, which commonly are made of camels hair :
they are divided in fuch a manner, that the women
live in different rooms from the men ; as both fexes,
according to the cuftom of the Eaft, are not per-
mitted to live conflantly in the fame room ; nor are
women permitted, by the Mahometan religion, to
fhew themfelves to other men. The furniture of
the rich confifls of a mat, which they fpread over the
ground in their tent; upon which they place a
fofFa which ferves them for table, chairs, and bed.
They have fome copper veiTels in which they boil
their viftuals, and fome wooden diflies in which thev
ferve them up. Their eflate confifts in cattle, as
horfes, ailes, camels, oxen, cows, fheep and goats,
of wh'ch each family hath their own before the

F 4 tent.

72 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

tent. For this reafon they keep a number of dogs.
At this time the Arabs had all their cattle at home,
and fed them with cuttings of flraw and dried tre-
foil, but the horfes with barley. At the time of the
year when Egypt is verdant, they fearch for fuch
places as will afford food for their cattle. The
greateft property of the Arabians confifls in horfes.
They have reafon to fet a great value on them, as
they are certainly the fined and bed in their kind
that can be feen. An Arabian horfe is .(lender, has
a long neck, clean legs, fine fkin, is full of fire, and
runs very fafi:. They are raoflly forrel or brown
bay, but fome are white and iron grey mixt. A
black horfe is very rare to be feen. If they get one
of this colour, without fpots, they reckon hira un-
lucky, and part with him. The Arabs are excel-
lent horfemen ; they fit faff and well on a horfe, being
ufed from their youth to it. Their faddles are almofl
made in the fame manner as ours; but the hindmoft
tree is fo high, that it covers more than half-way up
the rider's back. The ftirrups are flat in the
Turkifli manner, and hide the whole foot. They
never ufe a girt, ^vhich makes it fo much the more
difficult to ride and mount. The Arabian youths
often ftand fi:raight in the faddle, whilfi: the horfe
runs in full career, and keep themfelves in a juft
ballance, throw their lances, and turn backwards
and forwards ; fome of them whihl the horfe runs
in full fpeed, throw themfelves over and fi:and on
their heads in the faddle. Their cloaths are not
very elegant. Over the body they have a piece of
white woollen cloth, which they cafl feveral times
up and down from the feet over the flioulders, fo
that they always have their arms at liberty : they
likewife ufe linnen. Thofe with whom 1 was, had
red gampaches rotind their legs, and a turban

round

TO THE PYRAMIDS. 73

round the head. Then' arms are a lance, commonly
twelve feet long, with a point at one end, which
they ufe in battle, and when they take a long ride ;
a battle-ax faftened to a flick of three feet length,
with a little edged oblong iron club failened to fuch
another Hick; thefe they conftantly carry with
them. They ufe no fire arms, nor fabres, nor
knives.

The Arabs are of a middling fize, full of flefh,
but not fat ; they have flrong mufcies and a rough
fkin ; their countenance is dark brown ; and after
they are married they let their beards grow, which
are always black.

With the new moon at feven o'clock in the
morning on the 27 th, began the time when all
the Mahometans invert the order of nature, turning
night into day, and day into night. This is their
famous Kamazan or Ramadan, which lafls for
thirty days, or the whole courfe of the moon. Under
all this time every Mufelman refrains from meat,
drink, tobacco and coffee. In a word, none can
without punifliment take a drop of water from fun-
rife to Jun-fet ; but no fooner is the fun gone down
than they begin to eat, drink, and be merry until
fun-rife. All minarets, or fleeples of their Mofques,
are at this time adorned with burning lamps all the
night long, as likewife are the principal flreets. I
went on a balcony at feven o'clock of an evening, to
fee Cairo's innumerable minarets illuminated, which
afforded a fine fight.

On the 27th was celebrated a feflival, to which
nature gives Cairo alone a right, and therefore can-
not be celebrated at any other place in the world.
It was on this day that the water of the Nile was let
into the town, and therefore a beginning was made
fo Egypt's fertility for the enfuing year. As the

good

74 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

good or bad fortune of the country depends on this
day, in refpeft to the plenty of the water, it is
juftly one of the moft folemn in the whole year.
The Nile is entirely under the direftion of man : it
overflows the country, but wanders not at will : it is
conducted to all parts of the countries which may
•want it, with prudence and circumfpeftion ; but the
art of man cannot contribute to its encreafe. This
is the work of nature. When the Nile begins to
encreafe, a dam of earth is cafl up at the opening
of the ditch, which the Emperor Trajan made from
the river, and goes through the city, which for-
merly ended in the fea at Rofette, after having wa-
tered the whole country through which the ditch
was made. When the water hath rifen to a fuf-
ficient height, which can be feen by the famous
l^ilometre, this dam is opened and the ditch filled
with water, which is afterwards encreafed and led
over the whole country. The day this is done is a
feflival, and was now celebrated. The feflival was
not fo remarkable this year as in others, becaufe the
Turks had now begun their Ramadan, when every
body is filent and devout. The fcene was com-
monly performed in this manner: the Balliaw in
Cairo, accompanied by a detachment of looo or
more JaniiTaries, with his Kiaja and other officers,
goes to the dam on horfeback at feven o'clock in the
morning, where he enters a Tchioil-c (an open fum-
mer-houfe) and orders thofe that are to open the
dam to hold themfelves in readinefs. The honour
of opening the dam is divided between the Turks,
Cophti, and Jews, and is opened by them in their
turn. When every thing is ready for opening, the
Bafhaw throws with his own hands a fpade upon the
dam. This done, it is removed by thofe who are

appointed

TO THE PYRAMIDS. 75

appointed for the purpofe, with the loudeft accla-
mations of numbers of people.
. The Turkifli Emperor had fent a new Bafhaw
into Egypt, which happens almoft every year. Ali
Bafliaw, who fix months before was grand Vizir, was
now appointed Bafhaw. He came on the evening of
the 1 6th, to Bulack, after a voyage of ten days on
the Nile. He had been long coming a ftiort voy-
age ; but thefe velTels have neither fails nor oars,
being drawn with ropes by a number of people
on the ihore. At the arrival of a Bafliaw, the Beys
and other officers in Cairo, make handfome prepa-
rations to receive him. With thefe, the Englifli
Conful Mr. Barton and I rid out to fee the procef-
fion. After we had come out of the city and Bu-
lack, we alighted and went along the fliore on
foot. We had the Nile on our left hand, which
now had rifen to a tolerable height, fmooth, and
agreeable to behold; and on the right, magnificent
grand tents of the Beys and other grandees; before
each was a fine illumination of lamps in different ,
figures, hung upon cords. I went into the tent of
a young Bey, in which was a room capable of con-
taining two hundred perfons; the whole of the in-
lide covered with fine cloth of gold, with foifas of
the fame kind, and fine Indian carpeting on the
earth: a magnificence much more becoming a
Prince, than a perfon who fome years ago was
bought for fifty or fixty piaflers, whofe bufinefs was
to fit on his knees, pour out coffee, and light the
tobacco pipe for one who had rifen in the fame
manner to honour. This is the rife of the Egyp-
tian Regents. The Bafliaw had landed with his vef-
fels on the other fide of the river, oppofite the tents,
where he lay over night in his veffel. The next
corning he came over, and was received on the

fkore

76 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

ftiore by all the Beys, with much magnificence. He
mounted a horfe, and they accompanied him on
foot to a houfe hard by, where the Bafliaw com-
monly remains for fome days before he makes his
entry into the city. He forms a wrong idea of the
Turks, who imagines them to be rough, unpolite, and
ignorant of what we term complaifance. They are far
from wanting it. I received on this occafion, as I
had often done before, feveral proofs of it. Se-
veral who knew us not, defired us to walk in, and
we were politely treated by them.

ADc-

THE CARAVAN. 77

A Defcription of the Mecca Caravan
from Cairo.

THE Caravan goes every year from Cairo to
Mecca, about this time. The Bey's march
from the city, is one of the moft remarkable cere-
monies of any to be feen in the Eaft. I had an op-
portunity of beholding it on the i oth of February.
It began at eight o'clock in the morning, and went
rSpm a place below the palace, where all thofe aflem-
ble who are to go to a place without the city, where
the Caravan hath its encampment. They obferved
the following order on this occalion : i. A number
of fpare camels faddled. 2. Six field pieces on their
carriages, drawn by fix horfes. 3. Six Palangains
conftrufted of grand filk hangings, which covered a
foffa, each carried by two camels, the one behind
the other. They are for the ufe of the Bey, and
the principal officers on the journey. All the
others muft ride on camels. 4. About forty camels
with provifions, and as many with ammunition. 5. A
number of camels carrying water in leather bags,
for whofe fupport handibme legacies have been left
by the former Sarracenian Sultans of Egypt, which
flill continue to be paid. 6. Beds for the fick, car-
ried by camels, one on each iide. 7. Field mufic
of drums, kettle-drums and hautboys. 8. A num-
ber

78 TRAVEX.S TO THE EAST.

ber of fpare camels with empty faddles, in n»
order, followed by a number of Scheks. 9. Six
fine large led horfes, excellently faddled, out of the
Turkifli Emperor's (table, which he keeps in Cairo,
to ferve at grand ceremonies. 10. The Bafhaw's chief
eunuch (Kiflar Aga) with his flaves, above twenty,
on horfeback. 11. A number of fpare camels.

12. A number of fine well-faddled led horfes.

1 3. The Commiffary of the Turkifli Emperor, whom
he keeps here to buy flaves of both fexes, horfes,
jewels, curiofities, &c. 14. A number of fpare camels,
adorned with oflrich feathers on their heads, and
with {hells and pearls. On fome of them rid black
flaves, 15. A number of Scheks on foot. 16. The
officers led horfes. 17. The officer who hath the
infpe^lion over the water on the journey, and is one
of the greateft, with his flaves in armour. 18. Two
pair of kettle drums ; a large one and a fmaller to-
gether. 19. A number of fpare camels, about
lixty. 20. A troop of Pilgrims on foot, followed by
fome Scheks. 21. A troop of camels laden with
water. 22. Two pair of kettle-drums, followed by
a number of well-drefled camels in three troops, be-
tween each a pair of kettle-drums. 23. Two guides
riding on camels ; thefe were old men, each holding
a red enfign, adorned with green Arabian letters,
in his hand. 24. A Cadi, who is one of the prin-
cipal officers of the Caravan, and manages what-
ever relates to religion and juftice on the journey,
followed by a number of enfigns of different colour:
after which came a number of green enfigns carried
by Scheks. 25. The Turkifli cavalry (Spahi) in the
fame order as at the Baflriaw's entry; but with this
difference, that each troop was clofed by a number
of officers, flaves riding on camels, fome dreflTed in
black, others in white cloaks, and numbers of led

camels

THE CARAVAN. 79

camels with rich faddles, and covered with velvet
houfings. 26. The Janiffaries on foot, intended to
efcort the Caravan on the journey, to the number
of four hundred. 27. The Bey's two horfe tails
and two enfigns. 28. The Bey's Secretary, fol-
lowed by forae officers of the JanifTaries. 29. The
Aga of the JanifTaries and Azapes, in his drefs of
ceremony, attended by his ilaves and ordinary
guard. 30. All the Beys in ceremonial habits, with
their officers and attendants. 31. The corps of the
Azapes, with their officers in the fame order as be-
fore, with a number of Cuiraffiers on foot, armed
in the ancient manner. 32. The corpfe of Janif-
Taries with their officers, preceded by a number of
young flaves on foot. 33. Some officers of the
Bafhaw's court, in white cloaths. 34. The Bey him-
felf, who commands the Caravan, followed by Seven
Kiaja, and his flave Cuiraffiers. On his right was
carried a green enfign, which is the one that is by
the Bafliaw, in the Emperor's name, delivered him,
to be hallowed, by touching Mahomet's grave with
it; and he is enjoined, at the peril of his life, to
carry it fafe backwards and forwards. It is after-
wards fent over to Conflantinople, and is a great en-
couragement to all faithful Mufelmen, as they fol-
low it without fear againfl their enemies. The Bey
was a man of feventy years of age, rich and well
efteemed, and was now a fourth time employed as
conduftor of the Caravan. 35. The treafurer of
the Bey, with other officers of his court. 36, His
mufic, confiding of a number of kettle-drums, trum-
pets and hautboys, clofed by ten drums, all on
camels. 37. I afterwards faw nothing, but an
amazing number of Scheks (rulers of the church)
divided into troops, and Dervices (who are the fame
amongft the Turks as Monks amongft the Pap ids)

all

8o TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

all on foot. There were enfigns of differeiit colours
to each troop, fome green, others yellow, others
red, and others white atid red, &c. One troop car-
ried long reeds, fuch as grow near the Nile, inftead
of enfigns. I was told thefe were the fifliermen of
the Nile. The inventions thefe people had in their
inarch were innumerable, and all ridiculous, giving
them more the appearance of people that had lofl
their fenfes than of rational beings. All repeated
in a high tone of voice, but without the lead har-
mony, the Mahometan confeffion of faith. They all
continually call their heads backwards and forwards.
They mull either have ftronger heads than other
people, or be well praclifed, to be able to continue
this motion fo long, without being afFefted with
fwimmings. With each troop were fome that had
difguifed themfelves in different manners. 38. The
cavalcade was compleated by the camel that carried
the paviliion, under which are fuppofed to be the
carpets the Emperor fends yearly to Mecca, to
cover the magnificent mofque in which Mahomet's
tomb is. The camel was moil magnificently adorned
with feathers, ribbands, lace, falfe pearls. Sic. and
conduced himfelf in fuch a manner as to do honour
to his office. The paviliion he bore was formed
like a pyramid, about fix feet high, and covered
with green filk, emboifed with gold and filver letters.
Under this the carpets were fuppofed to be car-
ried; they were not however there, but were packed
up and loaded on other camels, fo that this had only
the honour, without bearing the load. A beafl;
chofen for this occafion may certainly be deemed
happy in comparifon to others of his kind. After he
has made this journey, he is kept in a liable during
the remainder of his life, a penfion being allowed
for his fuftenance, and is ferved very carefully by

feveral

THE CARAVAN. 8i

feveral perfons appointed for the purpofe, being
free from all future labour. The tapeflry fent to
Mecca is made by Coptites in Cairo, v/ho have a
certain number of rooms allowed them in the palace.
They are black ftuff, woven only for this purpofe,
and embofled with letters of gold. They are
changed every year; and thofe that are carried
there one year, are taken back again the next, being
then divided into feveral pieces, moil of which are
fent to the Turkiih Emperor, who gives part of them
to fome Mofque for covering the doors, or to fome
of his greateft favourites, as valuable prefents. The
Bey of the Caravan referves fome for himfelf, and
gives a piece to the principal officers. It was plea-
fant enough to fee how the mob crouded towards
the camel as he palfed, in order to touch the pavil-
lion, which they elleemed holy. Thofe that could
not come fo near as to touch it with their hands,
threw their handkerchiefs or failies on it, that they
might at leaft polTefs fomething which had touched
fo holy a thing. I aiked my companion, who knew
the cuftoms of the country, whether they did not
make a fuperftitious ufe of thofe things ; but he
denied it, faying, that they only keep them in
teftimony of having feen a thing, for which they
have fo great a veneration. Some travellers fay,
that the Alcoran is carried under this pavillion;
but I know not whence they have taken this rela-
tion. I have aiked Turks that were well informed
of every thing, but all anfwered, that no Coran is
under it. The Turkifli Emperor gives of his re-
venues from Egypt to the Bey 20,000 ducats, to
defray the expences he is at in conducting the
Caravan. A Bey, who only makes the journey
once, gains nothing by it, but rather lofes, on ac-

G count

S2 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

count of the many valuable equipages he mud pro-
cure, and the prefents he is obliged to make the
Arabian Princes through whofe territories he
marches, that may allow him a free paffage, which
he hath fometimes difficulty to gain even with pre-
fents. After the Bey has thus marched the Ca-
ravan with all its attendants through the city, he en-
camps at the diftance of about half a day's journey,
in a large plain, where he waits eight days. In this
time all affemble, who either out of devotion, or on ac-
count of traffic, intend to go to Mecca. It was ru-
moured that the Caravan would this year confiil of
40,000 fouls. A number of women alfo undertake
this journey every year. The Caravan is divided into
two troops; one confiils of thofe which come from the
whole African coaft, from Tetuan and Morocco, to the
three Ptepubhcs of Barbary. Thefe make about 1 0,000
men, Vv^ho in going bring up the rear of the Ca-
ravan; but returning, they are in the front. When
one refl.e£l:s on the long journey they take, who come
from the remotefl: parts of Africa, and go to Arabia,
and that the countries they pafs through over land
are uninhabited defarts of burning fand, we cannot
but conclude that they are induced to undergo thefe
hardfliips by an inconceivable zeal and religious
fervour. The other troop confifl s of Turks, from all
parts of the Turkilh Empire, except Syria, and
thofe that border on Perfia, who form another
Caravan at Damafcus, which meets and joins this at
an appointed place on the road. The Turks traffic
confiderably on this journey. They do not all go
out of devotion, that travel to Mecca : a confiderable
number go for the fake of gain. They buy from
the Franks in Cairo, and carry to Arabia Cloths, Co-
chineal, Spices, Lead, Brafs^ falfe Pearls, and other
things, together with, what iliould have been firfl

mentioned>

THE CARAVAN. 83

mentioned, an immenfe quantity of Spanllli or
German Dollars. They bring back Coffee, Opo-
balfamum (Balfam of Mecca) Myrrh, Frankincenfe,
Zedoary, with other drugs, China ware from India,
fine Cotton Stuffs, Turbans, Indian Silks and Tiffue,
or Gold Stuffs, Szc. By thefe merchants the Bey
gains confiderably : for the time is always fixed how
long the Caravan is to be on the journey, and how
long it may flay in Mecca. If the merchants cannot
fettle affairs within the limited time, which is very
fiiort, they defire the Bey to defer his march for
fome days, to which he complies, provided they
pay him a certain fura every day, which they wil-
lingly do, as their profit can well afford it.

G 2 FROM

84 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

From Cairo to the burial Places of the

Mummies.

IT was now a convenient time to vifit the burial
places of the ancient Egyptians, where em-
bahned bodies are yet to be found, under the name
of Mummies, as the journey might be made in
boats acrofs the country, which was now under
"Water. I fet out on the 1 6th, accompanied by Mr,
Roboly, a French interpreter in Alexandria, twor
janilTaries, and two French merchants. We came
to Old Cairo towards evening, and lodged with fome
Syrian merchants from Damafcus. Whilil we waited
for fupper, we fent for one of this country's mufi-
cians, who was a Chriftian Coptite, to amufe
tis with his mufic. His inftrument was common m
Egypt, and in many other places of the Eaft, being
without doubt of great antiquity, and probably re-
fembled David's harp. The Chriftian CoptiteSy
and even the Franks, who trade here, call it Pfal-
terium. It is in the form of an oblique triangle, fo
large as to lay commodioully on the knees when
they play on it. It has two bottoms, two inches
from each other, with about twenty catguts of dif-
ferent fizes. Our mufician, whilft he was playing,
fang fome Arabian fongs on Providence, a contented
mind, &c. which afforded an agreeable entertain-
ment. It was perhaps with this fimple, but inge-
nious, inftrum.ent, that David's Pfalms were fung

and

Sepulchres of the Mummies. 85

acid performed. We went the 17th at fun-rife, on
hoard one of the veffels in the Nile, after we had
encreafed our company with our landlords. We
failed firfh for the large Pyramids, which I had a
mind to fee once more, as well for their being fo
much worth notice, as particularly for the pleafure
I now had of coming to them on the water, the
fame way I fome months before had gone by land.
This voyage is the pleafanteft that can be imagined.
We failed in from two to four feet water; and thofe
places which the water hath not yet overflown, or
where it had already begun to decreafe, appeared
clothed with a charming verdure, a great part fowm
with Turkey wheat, and fome parts, tho' but few,
with Lucern,the latter not being commonly fown be»
fore the water has entirely decreafed. Innumerable
flocks of different kinds of birds are to be feen on
the places not under water, J particularly faw the
Royfl:on Crow, or common Crow (Corvus Cornix)
Sand Piper (Tringa Hypoleucos) which had lately
arrived, a kind of Dotteril (Charadrius) as large as
a Dove, which I have defcribed; the common field
Lark (Alauda arvenfis) a kind of Crane, Ardea
virgo temporibus crifliatis, the oriental Crane (Ardea
orientalis) which I have defcribed in Smyrna. The
Pelecan (Pelicanus Onocratalus) which flew by us in
large flocks : as this is rhe time of their migration,
when they come to thefe Southern parts from the
Black Sea and the coafl:s of Greece, the ufual places
of their fymmer's refidence. All thefe excited my at-^
tention, but none fo much as the Crane, call'd
Ibis : I thought this mofl; remarkable, as an incre-
dible number covered the fields. A perfon that
haih the leafl; knowledge of Nature's ceconomy, may
eafily find why the Creator hath ordered this bird
to come in fuch numbers to the marfliy Egyptiaq
G 3 fields

85 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

fields at this time: here they find in great abundance
their proper food, from the number of frogs that
cover the country when the waters decreafe, and
multiply extremely during the time of the flood. The
bird, by feeking its proper food, does the country a
fmgular fervice, freeing it from vermin; which, were
they to remain and rot, would certainly occafion a
fl:ench mortal to men and hearts. This bird never leaves
Egypt. I have feen it all the time the country Was dry,
but never in fuch numbers as now in certain places,
as they can then range over the whole country ; but
now the water obliges them to feek for dry places.
When the frogs are not fo numerous, it lives on
little grafhoppers, and other infects which are never
wanting in the burning fields of Egypt; and they
would certainly be in much greater numbers, if
they had not this enemy. I have (hot it in both
feafons of the year, but found a remarkable differ-
ence in its fatnefs, which proves that at this time it
gets greater plenty of proper nourifliment. The ac-
counts of Bellonius concerning the birds that come to
Egypt during the overflowing of the Nile, are very
juil. About noon we came to the large Pyra-
mids. Thofe of my companions who had not feen
the inward conflruclion of the largeil went in, and
I took the opportunity of looking for natural curio-
fities. I found none but fuch as I had feen here be-
fore, except a fine black Jafper,which will bear a good
poliili. The remarkable Rat (Mus Jaculus) which
the Egyptians call Gerbua, or Yerbua, and which
I have already defcribcd (Aft. Upfal. 1750, p. 17.)
and the little thin Lizard, Vv'hich I faw here for the
firfl time (Lacerta ^Egypriaca). This was by the
ancient Egyptians fo far honoured, as to have its
image engraved on an antique jacinth in my pofTef-
fellion. 1 now determined to put in execution my
I intention

Sepulchres of the Mummies. 87

intention of climbing to the top of the Pyramid,
which the heat prevented me from doing before;
but it feemed as if forrane had refolved that the
weather fliould always hinder me from reaching
above the middle of its height. When I had got to
the middle, there came fuch a wind, that I and my
fervant were glad to find ourfelves in a part of the
Pyramid where we could lay ourfelves down between
the fteps, until the violence of it had gone over us. I
thought it therefore too much to venture to proceed
farther, as in cafe of another fuch accident 1 might
not perhaps find the fame flielter. We continued
our voyage, which through the carelefsnefs of the
mafter was not fo agreeable as before. He carried
us to places where the water was not deep enough,
fo that our boat ftuck fall in the mud. It was not
fo dangerous to run a-ground here, as before d^Iand
or Yarm.outh. The watermen of the Nile knew a
convenient method of helping the boat forward. Six
of them went on each fide, put their flioulders under
the gunnel, and, as it were, carried the Vv^hole boat,
in which were above twenty perfons, with much
baggage. In the evening we came to Abufir, a vil-
lage, near which is one of the holes leading to the
Sepulchres of the Mummies. Before we reached the
land, the fliore was full of people, old and young,
women and children, who came out of the village to
fee and enquire what we wanted. Peafants are in
every place curious and full of wonder, when they fee
llrangers; and the Egyptians are moreover fufpi-
cious. The Scheck of the village came on board,
accompanied by two of his neighbours, who had the
appearance of Arabs, armed with fabres and pillols.
They enquired our errand, and permitted fiieep to
be brought us for money, to be drefled for our
fupper. The old man went away immediately, and

G 4 left

88 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

left us his companions. He was fcarce got on
flaore, when he made figns to our Janiffaiies, that
they were permitted to fire on thofe who remained
on the fliore after him; which the boys, of whom
the croud chiefly confifled, took in good earnell,
and went home. Thefe two men fupped with us very,
moderately and rationally. My interpreter afked one
of them, who was a large and ftrong man, why he eat
fo little ? He anfwered, " A fool eats more than na-
" ture requires, and afterwards (ickens with it." Our
guefts wiflied us a good night, and we refted in our
boat, where we were better off than if we had re-
moved to fome of the miferable huts of the peafants.
On the i8th, in the morning, the Scheck of
Abufir fent us a cake of flower, honey, butter and
water. The relifli of it was heightened by the Am-
ple and well-meaning manner in which we knew it
was given. The greatefi: virtue the Egyptians and
Arabs have retained of thofe that were to be found
amongft their forefathers, is hofpitality. It would
be a great error in the father of a family, to let a
ftranger go away without having treated him with
fomething. A perfon who is hungry, and finds them
eating, may boldly feat himfelf by them, and eat
with them, without fear. This is a liberty they
defire to have returned, as well by their equals as
others. "We walked to the cave of the Mummies.
On the other fide of the village we met with a wood
of the ^Egyptian Acacia, which in this dry fand was
a mere flirub, whereas in good ground it grows to a
large tree. It was yet in bloflbra, and at the fame
time bore ripe and unripe fruit. We met with hares
(Lepus timidus) round this wood in fuch numbers,
that without dogs v/e killed fome of them as they run
by us. This occafioned my interpreter to come hi-
ther again, after we had returned to Cairo, for the

fake

Sepulchres of the Mummies. 89

fake of hunting only, and he killed above twenty
within two days.

The Arabs and Egyptian peafants are the only
people that don't difturb thefe creatures, which are
persecuted in all other parts of the world. Mr.
Barton, the Englifn Conful at Cairo, told me that
Counfellor Carlefon, during his ftay in Egypt, had
there fhot the firfl hare that had been feen by the
Franks in that country. Before that time it was
fcarcely known that this creature was to be found in
Egypt, at lead not to the Europeans, and yet iefs
to the inhabitants of Cairo, v/ho neither admire the
meat, nor fuch a manner of hunting. On a little
iiland near this place, the French have introduced
hares for the pleafure of hunting ; and I was in-
formed, that they had increafed remarkably; nor
are the Rock Goats (Capra Cervicapra Linn.) fcarcc
in this part of the country. We faw their tracks in
the fine fand that covered the ground every where,
as plainly as we can difcern the tracks of different
beafls in the new-fallen fnow in Sweden. If we
had now been furniflied with a good long-barrel'd
gun, a fwift Arabian horfe, and a ftaunch hound or
a hawk, we might have diverted ourfelyes in a mari-
ner truly royal, and which is here chiefly praftifed
by the Arabs of quality, who kill the Rock Goats with
their lances whilil running, never making ufe of fire
arms. We at length came to the pit, fituated not
above a cannon fhot from the village of Abufir, on
a fandy plain, and refembling the fox-holes in
Sweden. We defcended with much danger and dif-
ficulty on a rope ladder we had brought along with
us from Cairo. At the bottom of this pit, on the
lide fronting the defart, was the entrance into the
famous Sepulchres of the Mummies. This lime-flone
rock, which I take to be the bafis of all Egypt, has

with

90 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

with an infinite deal of labour been hollowed out,
for the reception of the bodies and aflies of their
dead. The firft objects that prefented themfelves
to us, were an amazing number of conic urns, or
earthen veflels, fifteen inches long, and nine inches
diameter at the bottom. They are made of a very
coarfe clay, burnt in the manner of our earthen
ware, but not glazed. The opening is at the larger
end, covered with a lid of the fame workraanfliip, a
little raifed and cemented with mortar. In fuch
urns as have been well preferved, is found a piece
of middling coarfe fleafy linnen, artfully wound in
foldings, and kept together by twine, which is
pbhquely wound over from the upper to the lower
part. Within this linnen is preferved a quantity of
dark grey afhes, mixed fometimes with a beak or
bone of a bird. Thefe aflies, covered with the lin-
nen, are in the fame conic form as the urn, and are
commonly found packed clofe within it. There is
often found a lump of aflies without an urn, which
feems to have been deftroyed by time. It happens
fometimes, tho' very feldom, that they find in the
urns a bird, in which the feathers, head, legs and
feet, and even the colours, are fo well preferved,
as that one may know what kind of a bird it is.
The Crane, call'dlbis, and Cranes (Ardea Grus) are
the only kind, as I have been told, that could be
linown again. I had not the fortune to find one pre-
ferved, tho' I opened many fcore of thefe pots. I
have been told by thofe who have found them, that
their heads and legs have been laid under the
wings, and thus prepared in the fame manner as
^hofe whofe aflies are to be feen. There are even
found embalmed dogs, laid in linnen. I have feen
one in the polTefiion of the French Conful at Cairo,
Mr. Livencourt, which was (q well preferved, that I

^ould

Sepulchres of the Mummies, 91

could fee, by its hair, colour and appearance, that
the fame common fort of dogs is yet in Egypt, that
hath been there fome thoufand years ago; and that
none of the many varieties we have in Europe have
been tranfplanted here. Dogs had then a better lot
in Egypt than now, as they are accounted unclean,
unworthy to come under the roof of a Mahometan,
killed if they touch his cloaths, and forced to live in
the open air on the legacies left them by the chari-
table people and alms, or feek their food from what
fortune throws in their way. I have been in-
formed, that the French Jefuit Sicara, who for the
fake of antiquities travelled with much attention
fome years ago in Upper Egypt, had there found
an ox embalmed in the fame manner, which he fent
over to Paris. We left the burial place of irra-
tional beads, and. proceeded farther to that of man.
This is not done without fome danger of iofmg the
way, efpecially if one ventures too far in the paf-
fages. On both fides of this palTage are niches, in
which Mummies in their coffins are preferved, fland-
ing upright on their feet. The niche is clofed up
with a wall, fo that nothing can be difcerned on
the outfide.

At ten o'clock in the morning, we returned from
thefe fubterranean places, which afforded me lefs
pleafure than the open plain I faw around them,
where I fearched for natural curiqfities. The infers
I found in the fand were the greatefl advantage
I reaped from this journey. I found fome, which
i am perfuaded no natural hi had ever before feen.
Some of thofe I found were known to me. Of
thefe I colle6led within a fhort time fiK fpecics of
Libellulas (Dragon fly) four Cicad^e, and fome
Grylli (Locufts and Grallioppers). Of what ufe is a
wild defart, filled with burning fandJ' Can any living

creature

9^ TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

creature fubfift in it? Are not thefe defarts ufeleli:
fpots on the earth? Such are the queflions of a per-
fon who cafts a hafly eye on thefe wild plains. But
if he remains there a little time, and is not fright^
ened by the fcorching heat of the fun, or the flying
fand, bends himfelf down a little, and looks around
him with attention, he will in this dry fandy wilder-
nefs find a confirmation of that truth, that the
Creator hath not made any thing in vain : apd that
no place is to be found on our globe, which is not
by nature deftined for fome living creature. In the
afternoon we fet out on our return, and came to a
little fine wood of the Egyptian Acacia (Mimofi^
Nilotic.) which had on one fide a large field planted
with, Turkey wheat. I here faw that Acacia, like
moil other trees, hath its gall (Galla) which is foft,
white, confifts of feveral coats, with many cells.
This was now full of caterpillars, who without;
doubt bring forth a fmall fly (Cynips) which time
would not permit to fee. We faw the herb Purflaiq
growing in the moid places, where the water that
ran from the fields had ftagnated. We came to a,
fwampy defart, overgrowing with the thorny Reft
Harrow, and covered with the Ibis. This plant,
which occafions fo much trouble to the hufband-
nien in Scania, is no lefs common in Egypt. I have
feen it in many other places cover whole fields. If
the Egyptians were defirous of tilling all the land
fit for hulbandry, they would certainly fp?ire no
pains; to deilroy this pernicious weed ; but they fplf
low, with the fame religious zeal as other natiops.,
the footfi: eps of their anceflqrs : the fon lets the
"water run on thofe fields where the father and
grandfather did the fame; and the fields which
fhen brought forth thorns and thifiles, continue to
produce the fame weeds uu^er the children and

grand

SEfULCHRE^ OF THE MtfMMIES. 93

grand children. In many places in the fcriptures,
mention is made of Thorns, but none knows the
plant meant by that word, it might be worth while
for Writers on the Scripture plants, to think of this
Reft Harrow ; which not only grows in large quan-
tities all over Egypt, but even in the bordering
countries of Afia. In this defart, not far from the
Water, a Mahometan hermit had his dwelling near a
tomb erefted over one of his faints. Thefe are very
common inTurky^but more fo in Egypt. We continued
our voyage, and failed all the night the fame courfe
we had taken before. I had leifure to defcribe a bird
in the voyage, which my Janiffary had ihot in a wood
of Acacia, near the fand heath ; it is by the Arabs
. called Kervan, and highly elteemed, if they get it
alive to keep in a cage. It comes into the ordo of
Pic^, and is of the genus of Corvus, tho' its
beak hath no fetse at the bafls. When I came
home on the 19th, I met with two European tra-
vellers of condition, who had lately arrived in
Egypt; one of them was a Popifti prelate (Defiderio
de Cafa Bafciana) who had been this three years
guardian of the Popifh convent in Jerufalem, and
was now on his return to Italy : a man of merit,
who received me with great politenefs. I had let-
ters of recommendation to him from the Dutch
Conful Hochpied, and the Jefuits and Francifcans in
Smyrna : it was therefore a favourable circum-
flance for me to meet him on his journey. He
very kindly gave me other letters to the perfon
who fucceeded him in his oiSce. The other was
Commiffary Lauder, a Scotchman. The Emperor
of Germany, as Great Duke of Tufcany, had fent
him to get neceffary intelligence relating to the Le-
.Vant and India, which might contribute to forward
1 • the

^4 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

the trade, which he had eftabliftied in Trielle and
Leghorn.

The water in the channel of Cairo had on the
24th of September fo evidently decreafed, that it
could be Teen by the marks near the houfes on both
lides of the channel, to be half a foot lower. This
remarkable decreafe is occafioned by a channel about
a day's journey from Cairo being opened, which
leads the water on a fpacious country between Cairo
and Alexandria. The weather was now remarkably
altered. It had changed from being burning hot, to
moift and cold, equal to what we have in Sweden in
the months of September and Oftober, accompanied
with a flrong wind and cloudy iky, but without
rain ; for this is a very uncommon thing at Cairo,
and is efteemed a wonder if fome drops fall in No-
vember and December ; but in fome years it rains
in Alexandria for feveral whole days together. The
Turks begin now to drefs in furs. It is greatly con-
ducive to preferving health, to change cloaths ac-
cording to the different feafons. Flies were now
feen in much greater numbers, and more briik than
before. This was without doubt owing to the ex-
cefTive heat in the fummer months, which robbed
them of a great part of their vivacity, and forced
them to keep in their retreats, where they had
ihade ; but cool weather gives them air and liberty
to try their fortunes -every where. Migrating birds
of different kinds arrived at this time, Cranes, Peli-
cans, Sand-pipers, a kind of Petti-chaps.

On the 29th, I went to fee the Well of Jofeph,
which is one of the curiofities vifited by all flrangers
that come to Cairo. This Well is dug and cut in
the lime-flone rock, on which the palace of Cairo
is built. On the fide of its opening is the famous

labyrinth.

Sepulchres of The Mummies. pj

labyrinth, which is about three-quarters of a mile
deep, and two fathoms wide, being fquare : it clofes
continually from the upper to the lower part, and
at length anfwers to the depth of the Well : it is fix
feet wide in the narrowed places, but in fome places
wider. In feveral parts of the wall on the right-
hand, are cut holes through which the light comes
in. At the end of the labyrinth is the bottom of
the Well, out of which water is taken up, by the
ufual manner of drawing up water in Egypt, and
thence led to a large Mofque, and a large Bagnio
at the Balliaw's palace. The water is brought to the
Well from another refervoir which lies deeper,
from whence the water is drawn by oxen. To the
lowed of thefe refervoirs, the water is brought by
aqu£edu£l:s from the Nile, near Old Cairo. This is
the remains of a work which teflifies the magnifi-
cence of the ancient Sovereigns of Egypt. The
inconceivable labour and incredible coil which have
been bellowed on this labyrinth, certainly merit the
attention of travellers. The rock is of the fame
kind with that on which the Egyptian Pyramids are
built, viz. a whitiih lime-flone, filled with different
kinds of iliells and fea infects, entire and not changed.
The greatefl part of the palace, formerly in a good
flate of defence, is now defiroyed ; fome towers
only being left, of which one hath been entirely
preferved, but it is without a garrifon or ammuni-
tion ; the whole of it built of hewn Hone, of the
kind I have already mentioned. We beheld at lall the
ruined building, which was formerly the palace of
the Sarraeen Sultans. Here we faw magnificent
Granite columns, above two fathoms or twelve feet
in length, of one piece, with well wrought capitals
and handfome foliages, cut in Hone, and fome ob-
fcarc remains of painting in water colours, hand-
fome

96 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

fome enough for the time in which they were exe-
cuted ; fome palm boughs were the mofi: vifible.
The roof and columns of a very large hall were yet
entire, in which was alfo to be feen a number of
Arabian infcriptions, with Coptic letters round the
cornifh of the roof. From the ruins of this palace,
almoft the whole city of Cairo may be feen. As far
as I can judge, I fuppofe Cairo to be twenty-four
miles in circumference. The view is far from being
agreeable: ill-built houfes with flat roofs, grey,
dully and dirty walls, with a number of minarets of
Mofques (landing up amongft them, cannot, do not,
make it more agreeable.

The 1 2th, the verdure began to appear in Egypt,
the greatefl part of the water having drained from
the fields. At this time the country appeared in its
full beauty, wherefore I went to Old Cairo, to havci
ai^ opportunity of feeing what vegetables this fea--
fon could afford worthy of obfervation. Bladder
Ketmia or Venetian Mallow, is a plant eaten in Egypt,
contrary to the cuflom of other countries. It was
now in full growth, and had already finiflied its flow-
ering, when the country people took it up, tied it in
fmall bundles, and carried it to the city for fale.

The Turks, being fond of war, are not ignorant
of military exercifes. In Cairo they order their
flaves, who are all young Chriilians, moftly bought
from Circaflia and Georgia, to be inflru6led in thofe
exercifes to which they are moft accuflomed, which
confifl in riding well, firing on foot, but moflly on
horfeback. The latter is not unworthy of atten-
tion. They hold their gun in one hand clofe to the
thigh, and in the other they have the bridle and a
match : they touch the fufe when the horfe is in full
fpeed, and if they are well trained, hit the mark,
which is ajar fetup at a certain diltance. The per-

fon

T O C A I R d. 9:?

foil wtio beats down the jar, receives a reward from
the officer who commands the troop. Their third
axercife is to throw a lance. Inllead of lances, whilft
they are learning, they ufe branches of palm-tree,
with which they ride after one another in full gal-
lop. I faw all their revolutions as I was riding by
the place of exercife, between Old and New Cairo,
where they affemble three days in the week, undetr
the infpection of an officer of diftinflion.

I SPENT the T^th, on an iiland direftly oppofite
Old Cairo. I had here an opportunity of feeing the
Reed of the Nile, of which frequent mention is made
in the fcriptiires. There are two forts of Reed
growing near the Nile : one of them has fcarce any
branches, but numerous leaves, which are narrow,
fmooth, channeled on the upper furface, and the
plant is about eleven feet high. The Egyptians
make ropes of the leaves* They lay them in water
like hemp, and then make good and ftrong cables
of them, which with the bark (Integumxentum) of
the Date tree, are almofl the only cable ufed in the
Nile. They make floats of this Reed, which they
ufe when they fifli with nets. The other fort is of
great confequence. It is a fmail Reed, about two or
three feet high, full branched, with fliort, fharp,
lancet-like leaves : the roots, which are as thick as
the flem. Creep and mat themfelves together to a
confiderable di fiance. This plant feems ufelefs in
ordinary hfe ; but to this is the very foil of Egypt
owing, for the matted roots have flopped the earth
which floated in the waters, and formed out of the
fea a country that is habitable. Before I left this
place, I obferved attentively the fliore of the Nile.
It chiefly confifts of fand, which is compofed of a
whitifh Quartz, or Cridalline particles, united to

H feme

98 TRAVELS TO THE EAST,

fome oblong lamlnse of black Mica, and a very
fmall proportion of ruft-coloured Spar.

During my (lay in Old Cairo, I ventured to do
a thing, wliich I believe very few travellers before
me have done; neither would I advife any one to
follow my example, for it might not perhaps be
attended with equal good fortune. It was my
going on the 15th, into a Turkifh Mofque. Accord-
ing to the laws of Turky, a Chriflian, who goes
in one of their places of worfhip, mufl either
turn Mahometan, or be burnt ahve. Money will
fcarcely obtain a mitigation of the law in this cafe,
tho' it helps in all other cafes, even in the mofl:
notorious offences, except when any perfon hath
been too free with their women ; for this offence is
as heinous in their eyes, as feeing their Mofques.
The Mofque in which I went, is jufl befide the
mark-hdufe of the Nile : I chofe a time when none
of the Turks who live there were prefent ; and en-
tered it, accompanied by a French interpreter, Mr.
le Grand, and a good honefl JanifTary, who was
devoted to me, after I had given the door-keeper a
handfome fee. Such things may have good and bad
confequences, therefore a traveller fhould never un-
dertake them, without great circumfpeftion; and
the more, as all the advantage he derives from his
curiofity is, that he may fay he has feen a place of
this kind; for there is indeed nothing remarkable in
them. The Mofques are almofl all built in the
fame manner, confifling of four galleries, which
form an open fquare i but the galleries are covered
and fupported by columns. If thefe are of marble,
porphyry, or granite, in thefe confifls the greatefl
beauty of the Mofque. In the middle of that fide
which points towards Mecca, is an oblong niche cut
in the wall, in which the Coran Ues, and d'lix^lj op-

pofite

T d C A I k 0* 99

poCitt to it, is a fmall gallery between two columns,
pretty high from the ground; from which theirScheiks
orPriefts read to the people fome part of the Coran,
or fomething elfe which may excite them to obferve
their doftrine, and live accordingly. In fome of the
other galleries are the fleps that lead to the minaret
or fleeple, from which the hours of prayer are pro*
claimed fix times a day, viz. at fun-rife, at noon*
three o'clock in the afternoon, at fun-fet, half an
hour after feven in the evening, and at midnight.
If the minaret is well built, it makes the outward
appearance of the Mofque agreeable, and contri-
butes a little to the beauty of the city, if fuch a
thing is to be found amongfl a people who defpife
archite£lure, and glory more in deflroying than
erecting. Their fteeples are cylindrical, with one
or more balconies, and four doors, one from each
quarter of the world. In Old Cairo is a grotto
much efleemed by the Chriftians, as Chrifl and his
mother were concealed in it when they fled to
Egypt. Over this the Coptites have built a church,
they keep in tolerable repair, and ufe the grotto
for a chapel.

Near Mataree is a well of fweet water; all the
others are fait. Here is likewife an obelii]<:, which
is the handfomefl in Egypt. I never believed na-
tural hiftory was fo ufeful in the fludy of antiqui-
ties, as I experienced on the 25 th. A perfon v/ho
is acquainted with birds^ may fee at firfl fight of
what kind thofe are, which are carved on it. I
could know a Strix (Owl) which Hood upperraofl
on the top of the obeliik ; a Scolopax (Snipe) much
like the pluvialis, an Anas (Duck) and, what I
think more remarkable, could plainly difcern the
Ardea Ibis alba in the pofition it is yet to be feen in all

H 2 the

loo TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

the fields of Egypt, carrying its head high and
tail low.

The entrenchments of Selim's camp, who took
Egypt from the Mahometans, were yet plainly to
be feen. They were built of brick, dried in the
fun, made of clay and ilraw, in the manner the
Ifraelites were obliged to make them during their
flavery in Egypt, in the time of Pharaoh j of thefe
bricks, the remains are to be feen to this day in a
Pyramid at Sacchara, which was built of them.

The Egyptian peafant now continues plowing and
fowing the field, which he has begun with the month.
Their utenfils are of the mofl fimple kind, but they
are fuiEcient for tilling the lighteft ground under
the fun. Their principal inftrument is a plow,
which confifls of a long handle, two uprights to
which the reins are faflened, with a fmall ill-made
fliare. They ufe oxen for their works of hufbandry ;
their inftruments are indifferent, when they cafl up
clods too large to be left entire, they break them
with a kind of hoe, which they alfo ufe in pre-
paring the beds in a garden, and to clean the fmall
partitions in the fields. Before I left Mataree, I
defired to fee the Sycamore, which, as they relate,
afforded our Saviour fliade when he fied into Egypt.
I regarded this tree as a lover of nature. It is only
four fathoms thick, fo that it is not fo large as others
I have feen in Egypt. It was a little hurt on the
Eaflern fide, and lefs in that part. By comparing
it with young trees of this kind, whofe age I knew,
1 imagine this, and the other trees of its fize, to be
about three hundred years old ; an age that will not
warrant us in regarding it as a relique.

The Janilfaries gate is on the left hand of the
entrance to the palace of Cairo, vdiere they have a
guard room for officers and common foldiers. In

the

TO C A I R O. loi

the afternoon of the 2 6th, I went thither to fee an
edifice, which was ere£ted by the ufurping go-
vernor, to tranfmit his name to pofterity. It con-
fided of a handfome hall for the Janiflary Aga,
clofing at the top in a dome, and had the walls
adorned with feftoons, but the roof was fupported
by fome fine marble columns from Italy. On each
fide of the hall was a gallery, with a flat roof and
painted walls.

We mufl not expect to find any traces in the
Turkilh architecture, of the magnificence which
is yet vifible in that of the ancient Egyptians,
Grecians, and Saracens. A Turk underflands
not how to lay a ftone properly, much lefs how to
raife a wall. The Armenians are their architects,
who, by their natural inclination for the art, ajffifted
by what they have feen on their travels in the Eaft,
build as well as can be expefted from people who
owe all their knowledge in a manner to nature. If
thefe people were to travel to Europe, and there
cultivate their parts, we might fee in the Eail,
mailers in every ufeful fcience, who might proba-
bly vie with the ancients, and furpafs many of the
moderns. In the entrance to this place, are to be
feen a number of various kinds of arms, ufed in the
holy wars ; being the remains of trophies which the
Saracens and Turks took from the Chriflian forces
after their viftories: fuch as helmets, harnelfes, battle
axes, pikes, partizans, and fome bows, one of v/hich
was of a prodigious fize. Thefe were the dellruftive
inftruments of thofe times, before an unlucky che-
mical invention taught men a Ihorter way to fend
one another to the other world. The Janiifary
Aga, the Kihaja, who fliould direft the police, and
a Tchiauz, are the officers that are obliged to live
conftantly in their guard-rojm, which I faw. A

H 3 number

102 TRAVELS TO THE EAST,

number of Capigi, or fubalterns, are conftantly in
their ftations. There is no fixed number of Janif-
faries ; they come and go as they think proper,
The foldiers think therafelves too good to be obliged
to keep a ftri^t guard. They find their account
better by keeping in the city, where they have an,
opportunity of robbing and abufing whom they
pleafe. This is the employment of thofe who
ought to proteft people from violence and injuflice.

On the 27 th, I faw black flaves fold in the Aurel
in Cairo; they were brought from Abyifinia, Ethi-
opia and Dongala. The greateft part were women,
almoft, naked, having only their private parts con--
cealed : they had their hair plaited in fmall locks,
anointed with fome kind of greafe, and adorned with
corals and coral beads, which hang in the nofe and
e^rs. Ornaments are neceffary to all nations.

On the 6ih. of December, advice came to Cairoi
that the German Emperor's CommiiTary, Mr. Lauder,
]iad returned to Egypt, which he had left two months
before to travel to Smyrna. In the Archipelago
he met with three of the Emperor's iliips of war,
bound for Alexandria, and with them returned,
The fame day we heard that Captain Jacobfon, of
Stockholm, had arrived at Alexandria from Leg-
horn. He had failed from Alexandria; two months
before, and now returned with 27,000- Spanifli
dollars, on account of the Jews in Leghorn, befides
merchandize.

Some days after we perceived that Ifmael EfFendij
who commanded the caflle of Alexandria, was de-
termined to raife the mob againft the Emperor's
three fliips of war. A ftrange flag, and efpecially a
black bird (the Imperial Eagle) in it, was fufiScient
to give the Turks a fufpicion. They had fent tq
Cairo frqm Alexandria, to give notice to the Re-
gency

T O C A I R O. 103

gency of their intention, and at the fame time raife
this city; but received a cold reception from the
Pacha and Janiffary Aga, who knew on what account
the (hips were come.

The firfl: of January 1751, Mr. le Grand took of
me the credentials by which I was empowered to aft
as Conful in Egypt. I knew not what he intended
to do with them, but believed he would, as he ought,
deliver them to the Regency. I was informed to
day by the Engliih Conful that he had delivered the
power and letters with it to the Jews, who rent the
cuftoms in Cairo ; and defired them to do what they
pleafed, as this matter concerned a foreign nation,
and he would not give himfelf any trouble about it.

The Mecca Caravan made its entry this day,
after it had been out fmce the i oth of September
of the lafl: year. Many of the people had periflied
on the road ; many by the rainy, cold, and bad
weather, which they could not bear ; fome were
killed by the Arabians, with whom the Caravan is
obliged to fight every journey, when they come to
plunder. It fliould feem that 100,000 fouls coming
into a city on one day, would occafion a great change
in the price of provifions; and I doubt whether
there is a city in Europe, capable of receiving at
once fo large a number of guefts without feeling
it ; but in Cairo no want of viftuals was known, on
account of this remarkable encreafe of inhabitants.
This is not only a proof of a rich country, but like-
wife of a fparing people, who have not yet forgot
that nature is content with a little. They loft the
Bey of the Caravan and 480 camels on the road.
It muft have been a tedious journey, when camels
could not ftand it. One of the grandees of Cairo,
who had been two years in Mecca, returned, and
was received with particular honour. All thofe

H 4 who

104 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

who had made this holy journey, had the firft flory
of their houfes painted, and hung over their doors the
luitre-fliaped Aloe, which grows in large quantities
in the gardens of Cairo, to teflify their hope by this;
Gver-green. This was both a joyful and forrowful
day. Thofe who could embrace their relations and
friends, after this dangerous, and by them greatly-
efteemed journey, had reafon to fmg joyful tunes,
^nd meet them with harps and drums ; but they
who had lofl their friends, filled all the ftreets;
with the lamentations and cries of hired mourn-
ers. This is a trade praflifed of old, and retained
to this day in Egypt, with another quite the
contrary, and both to be bought. When joy and
forrow are to be fold, nothing will be found in the
world which cannot be accorapliflied with mpney.

Cairo celebrates every year on a certain day,
\iz. the 28th of January, the birth-day of Mahomet,
in a more particular manner than any of thofe places
who efteem the name and memory of the founder
of this Eaftern religion. I may fay, that all who,
could ftir were this day in motion at Cairo, all of
the name of Mufelmen celebrated the day, and peo^
pie of other denominations went to be witneffes of
their joy. The large handfqme fquare Lefbikie,
was the centre of the feflival ; it is not far from the
Turks flreet, and exactly oppofite one inhabited
chiefly by Coptites, on the left hand of the road
that leads to Bulac. This place, which fome weeks
ago ftood under water, in the evening was bright
with illuminations. A city mull poflefs a Nile be-
fore it can have, in one and the fame place, at one
ti^ne a pleafant navigable river, at another a field
covered with verdant plants, and then blaze with
different kuids of bonfires. Fellivals of this kind

are

T O C A I R O. 105

are to the women of Cairo, as holidays are to
fchool-boys. The latter leap for joy, when they
get out of the fight of a fevere fchool-mafter, and
have an hour to indulge the inclinations of child-
hood. This muil likewife be the cafe with the
former when they are allowed a day, on which they
get an opportunity of enjoying thofe pleafures to
which their fex, oyer the whole world, are natu-
turally inclined, and mofl when they are kept un-
der conftraint. It is however a misfortune for this
fex in Egypt, that the feftival cannot procure them
all the liberty to be wiilied for, The eunuchs, their
fworn enemies, follow them conftantly; but their
fchemes are fpoiled if they can't outwit thefe wretches.
The reafon why this day is more celebrated here
than in other places, is, becaufe the eminent Abu-
bekir's race live here^ and can prove themfelves de-^
fcended in a direct line from the father-in4aw of
Mahomet. Of this family was in my time remain-
ing a Scheck, the mofl refpefled of any in Egypt,
who had once a brother (dead fome time before);
and on their children, which were numerous and
always marry one with another, depends this family
fo much refpefted in Cairo, which, according to ap^
pearance, is not likely to be extinft for many years.
A proof of the regard the people in Cairo have for
the head of this family, was to be feen this day,
when he received the vifits of the principal men in
the Regency, the Pacha excepted, who came to his
houfe, and by kiffing his hand, Ihewed the great
efleem they have for him. Some time after they
celebrated another feftival, to the memory of two
fons of prophets ; but in another manner, and with-
out illuminations on the above-mentioned place.
The houfes in the largeft flreets were adorned with

hangings,

f66 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

hangings, and lamps put up before thofe of the
principal perfons.

On the third of February it rained in Cairo»
which is worth remarking, as it happens fo feldom.
The weather varied at this time in Egypt, as it
does with us in April, but differed in regard to the
climate.

The 2 2d it was quite cold with a ftrong North
wind : all the trees lofe their leaves about this
time, and put forth new. Salix Calaf, Sycomorus,
Mimofa, had got young leaves, and the firll
bloffomed on bare boughs, which about this time
were brought to the apothecaries, who diflil from
them the Calaf water, fo famous and fo much ufed
in Egypt.

The yth of March happened a revolt in Cairo,
but it had not the defired effect. Some of the
Beys, who were baniflied on the ufurpation of the
reigning Abraham Kiahajas to the fupreme power,
had found means to fteal into the city, with an
intent to make an affault on their enemy j but
they had the misfortune to be difcovered. The
Governor fent men to furround the houfe, in
which they were concealed. Their faithful hoft,
and three of the confpirators, loft their heads in a
moment ; fire was put to the houfe, and all, even
the women, who were in it, were burnt alive.
The other Beys and their accomplices faved them^
felves by flight, and the Governor avoided this
blow, which ferved only to ftrengthen him in his
power. The riot lafted no longer than from four
to feven o'clock in the afternoon. The Turks dif-'
patch their affairs quickly, well or ill.

I LEFT Cairo on the loth of March, jufl: as the
Palms were ripe for copulation j all the bloffoms

were

TO CAIRO. 107

were now in their beauty, the trees iliot forth
new leaves, and wheat and barley were now in
ear ; after I had been there for nine months,
and had fulHcient opportunities of knowing Egypt,
a. country without an equal, and Cairo, a city
which is beil deferibed by the title its Lord the
Turkifh Emperor gives it, when he calls it fm-
gular in its kind*

T O

joS TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

TO DAMIATA.

THE 13 th of March in the forenoon, we paffed
by Maufora, a place which hath got an im-
mortal name by the unlucky pilgrimage of the
French King, Louis the Holy, to Egypt. It is now
a little town, or rather a large village, about half
way between Damiata and Cairo, well diftinguiflied
from the other villages, by fix Mofques, and its
fmall houfes, which however are tolerable hand-
fome and built of flone ; the others having mere
clay huts, and fome are without a Mofque. We
came to Damiata after a voyage of three days on
the Nile.

The i<5th early, I went out to botanize round
the town, but this neighbourhood affords nothing
different from the other parts of Egypt. Cicho-
rium fpinofum*, Centaurea calcitrapoides^, Carduus
fyriacus", Tragopogun picroides^ Medicago polymor*
pha% Trifolium refupinatum*", Scorpiurus fulcata%
Lathyrus hifpanicus *', Ranunculus fceleratusS Eu-
phorbia peplus*^, Poa annual Hordeum murinum™,
Adiantum capillus", Trifolium procumbens", Poa
bulbofa vivip.P, Apium graveolens^ Salix asgyptiaca^
Chenopodium viride^ Much larger quantities of
dew fall about this time in this part of Egypt,
which is nearell the fea, than in others more dif-

^ Thorny fuccory. ''Knapweed. '^ Syrian thiftle. 'i Goatsbeard,
^ Snail trefoil. ^ Kefupinaced trefoil, s Caterpillars. '' Spanifh
chichling vetch, ^Crowfoot. ''Spurge. ^Annual poa. ""Barley,
"^ Maidenhair. ° Procumbent trefoil. PBulbofepoa. ^Stinking
parfley, ' ^Egyptian willow. ' Goofefoot,

tanr,

TO D A M I AT A. 109

tant, by which the fields are enriched, even where
the Nile cannot overflow. The rain hkewife con-
tributes to it, faUing here frequently during the
winter and fpring months, which fcarcely even hap-
pens at Cairo. The Palm began now to open its
male flowers, which however is not general before
the enfuing month. In Damiata, which affords ati
incredible quantity of flax, they manufafture a
kind of handfome napkins with white, blue, red,
yellow^ and more forts of flripes, of which they fell
large quantities to Turkey. I faw this manufacture,
which is efl.abliflied in a little quarter feparate from
the town. On my return to my lodgings, I went
into a houfe where they dreflfed Rice, the chief com-
modity and riches of Damiata. It is pounded by
hollow iron peftles, of a cylindric form, an inch in
diameter, lifted up by a wheel worked by oxen.
A perfon fitting between the two peflles, puflies
forward the rice when the peflles are rifing. Ano«
ther fifts, winnows, and lays it under the peflles. In
this manner they continue working it, until it is en*
tirely free from chaiF and huflcs. When it is clean
they add a 30th part of fait, and pound them to-
gether, by which the rice becomes white, which be-
fore was grey. After this fining, it is paflfed through
a fine fieve, to part the fait from the rice, and then
it is ready for fale. Damiata fells every year 60,000
facks of rice, each fack of feventy-five oke, of which
the greatefl; part goes to Turkey, and fome to Leg-
horn, Marfeilles, and Venice. Rice is one of the
chief produftions of Egypt, and of courfe therein
confifls in a great meafure the riches of the inhabi-
tants ; it grows only in the rich fields round Da-
miata and Rofetta, which are eafily watered by the
Nile. The Egyptians undoubtedly learned the
cultivation of rice under the reign of the Califs, at

which

116 TRAVELS TO THKEAST.

which time many ufeful plants were brought ovef
the Red fea to Eg)^pt, which now grow fponta-
neoufly there, and enrich the country. The Re-
gency at this time would not give themfelves the
trouble of introducing any thing of the kind, and
perhaps would not even cultivate what they already
have, were it not for their flaves, the ancient inha-
bitants of Egypt, who are obliged to practice what
their forefathers taught them, without reaping the
lead advantage from the fweat of their brows, being
obliged to offer every thing to the luxury of their
tyrants.

On the 19 th in the afternoon, I failed on the
Nile, to view the fituation and appearance of the
town. Dam.iata is a little town, built on the Ihore
of the Nile in the form of a half moon, fituated on
the right hand in coming from Cairo. The Nile
makes a little turning to the Eaft, before it falls in
the fea. This reach, which is fomething broader
than the river in other places, ftretches beyond the
town, and ferves for its harbour, which is unfit to
receive the veiTels of the town, the mufches from
Cairo, chembecks from Cyprus, Syria, &c. fcheo-
meone from Alexandria, and other fmall craft of
this kind. The European veffels mull anchor in
the open road, without the mouth of the Nile,
where they are no longer fafe than whilft the wea-
ther favours them. In bad weather they have no
other chance but flipping their cables and running
to fea, or ilretching for the harbour of Cyprus.
On this account Damiata is a miferable place, and
•frequented by few European veffels ; yet forae
Frenchmen, who from their youth have been ufed
to the road, and are not frightened by thefe diffi-
culties, but for the fake of the profit they get by
the freight of the* merchants goods, run all hazard.

The

TO D A M I A T A. iii

The houfes near the fhore are tolerably well built
after the Egyptian manner, but thofe in the town
are the moft miferable huts one can any where fee*
I counted about twelve Mofques. 1 afterwards failed
to the other fide of the town, where I went on iliore
to look for plants, and there found in great plenty
the handforaeft in Egypt, and perhaps of all plants,
viz. the Plaintain tree, which, with Vines, Mulberry
and Peach trees, made part of a hedge round a field,
in which Sugar and different forts of Cucumbers
were planted. A more valuable hedge will fcarce be
found in any other place. If it was even made of
valuable metals, it would not equal this. The
Plaintain tree was now in blolfom, and had al-
ready at the lower end of the Pedunculus, fruit
of two inches long, on a flem two fpans thick and
about three fathoms high. Clifford's Plaintain
tree was too valuable for our Linnseus to anato-
mife. To me was left the bufinefs of anatomizing
and defcribing it, which I could do wit"h eafe in a
place where I might cut down the whole plant with
blolToms and leaves for fourpence : I therefore dif-
fered it, and found its conflruftion as wonderful as
the other parts which my mafler defcribed. The
Vines had lately put forth leaves. The Egyptians
don't cultivate them for the fake of wine, their re-
ligion forbidding them to drink it. They keep a few
for the fake of the grapes, which they eat freih.
The Peach tree was in bloflbm, but the Mulbei-ry
tree in the fame fituation as the Vine, nor is it ap-
plied to that valuable purpofe for which it is fo
ufeful to other countries.

The Maltefe cruizers frequently keep in the
road before Damiata, when they are at fea, which
is commonly about this time of the year, when the
pilgrims go to the holy land. One of them was feen

in
4

112 TRAVELS TO THE fcAST.

in the morning of the 20th, at the very month or
the Nile, where it feized three of this countries
chebecks, laden with wood from Caramania for*
Egypt, and having on board a number of Turks
and Greeks. The Turks taken on fuch an occafiorl
are made flaves, and the Greeks are fet at liberty,
but their goods are deemed a lawful prize. Thef6
cruizers are all equipped at Malta, but they feldom'
carry a Maltefe flag, except the ordinary religious
vefl'el which is commanded by a Knight, and con-
ftantly kept at fea. The others carry the flag of
Sardinia, Spain, or the Prince of Morocco, as thefe
powers are never at peace with the Porte, or the
Republics of Barbary ; that above-mentioned carried
a Sardinia flag, but was from Malta, Six others
cruized at the fame time on the coafl:s of Syria and
Caramania.

On the morning of the 2ifl:, I had the pleafura
of feeing from my window one of the mofl: remark-
able fights in nature. A female Palm (Phoenix
daftylifera Linnrei) had in the night put forth its
blollbms from the fpatha. I went thither at fun-
rife to fee it, whilfl the dew was yet falling. I faw
a gardener, the proprietor of the Palm, chmbing
Tip the Palm, which equalled our largeft firs in
height. He had a bunch of male flowers, with
which he powdered the female, and by thefe means
fecundated them. After he had done this, he
cut away the inferior boughs or leaves, between
which the flowers of the preceding year had come
out, together with the remarkable web which
covers the bafis of the leaves, and goes from one
edge of a leaf to the other.

On one fide of Damiata is a large river, or ra*
ther gulf, which empties itfelf into the fea, and
likewife receives an arm of the Nile j by which the

land

TO DA MI ATA. 113

land whereon the town is built becomes an iiland.
On the 2 2d, I went out to fee this gulph. The
mixture of fea and river water caufes this water to
be neither fait nor fweet, but between both. A
number of Mi keep here, which are caught
near Damiata, and confift chiefly of the Burri
(Mullet) of the Egyptians, and different fpecies
Sci^nas Artedi, which I have already defcribed. In
returning home I faw a lingle tree of Caffia fiilula,
which had ripened its pods, but had not yet put
forth leaves. This valuable tree is rarely feen in
thefe lower parts of Egypt, but more common
round Cairo : it grows now fpontaneoully, but was
firfl brought from India. On this excuriion, I found
the moil remarkable Date tree I had feen in Egypt;
it was compofed of two trees, which had grown to-
gether at their bafis, but parted two feet from the
ground, one ftem being larger than the other. It
fometimes happens that feveral of thefe trees grow
up fo near to each other, as to join with their ba-
fis ; but they are always diftinfl trees, nor does ever
one root emit two ftems. But at Tajum I faw a Date
tree divided into two crowns near the top, which
happens very rarely. Entering the town, I faw the
houfe in which the French Conful dwelt during his
flay at Damiata. It was entirely deflroyed, and
now uninhabitable. It has been in this fituation
ever fmce the Conful and his merchant were ex-
pelled the town for a riot which they had raifed
for an affair of gallantry ; fo dangerous and unpar-
donable an offence is this amongft the Turks. From
that time there has not been a French Conful or
merchant in Damiata. No other nation hath ever
had any bufmefs here. The Greeks alone have a
church in Damiata, by which I afterwards palfed.
It has a number of priefls and a pretty large con- '

I gregation,

114 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

gregation, particularly fince a number of thofc
Greeks, who were driven from Cyprus by the ty-
ranny of the Turks, have taken refuge here. There
are fome rich Greek merchants in Damiata, and the
infpector of the cuftoms is a Greek, who pays 400
purfes for his office; but in moft of the Greeks
here, their national rarfery fliews itfelf. The Papiftg
have neither chapel nor miilionaries here, which is
the only place of any eonfideration in Egypt de-
flitute of this kind of apoflles. The Syrian mer-
chants, about 200 in number, and all confiderable
people, have two monks from the mountain of Lr-
banon, of the order of St. Anthony, who read mafs
in their chambers, which even the French Captains
frequent. The principal part of the inhabitants
confifts in Turkifn Janiffaries, who are all merchants,
governed by Serdas; moft of them are rich, but
then they are chiefly knaves and run-a ways, who, for
great mifdemeanors having quitted Conftantinople,
Caramannia, or the iflands, took refuge in Egypt,
and there live in fafety. There are many Greeks
here; a few families of Coptites; about 200 rich
Syrian merchants already mentioned; of Jews a
pretty large number. The brokers are all Jews, a
few of them rich, but the greateft part poor. They
have no fynagogue here, but worfhip God in their
own private honfes. The Franks were obliged to-
quit the place entirely, after the French had been-
expelled.

On the 2 4th, we had the fineft weather I had feeir
for twelve months, as it rained' pretty hard in the af-
ternoon. One fliOUld live d. confiderable time in the
climate of Cairo, where there conftantly reigns a-
fcorching heat, and fcarcely ten drops of rain fall iif
the year, to be fenfible of the refrelhment both the
body and mind receive from a cooling rain.

The

to D A M I ATA. 115

, The 28th, I left Damiata with pleafure, as it is
Xhe raofl miferable place in Turkey for a Frank to
live in. We had two hours voyage on the Nile
iProm Damiata to the fea. The fhore on the right
hand confifled of fand-hills, with reeds near the
water^ and on the left rich land. At the mouth of
the Nile, on the left hand, was a tower which, they
fay, was founded in St. Louis's age. On the right
%as a village, near which we brought to with our
boat, and relied over night.

This was the laft night I flept on the Nile, and
the following day we went to fea with our fliip, and
failed three leagues^ We were at fea four days.

1 2 FROM

ti6 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

TO THE HOLY LAND.

THE firft of April, 1751, we anchored be-
fore Jaffa, called Joppa in the Holy Scrip-
t"Qre, after four days voyage from Damiata. This
town^ has no harbour, and the velfels muft an-
chor in the open road, which obliges them to put
to fea in the leaft bad weather, as is the cafe at
Damiata. The water was fo (hallow on this coaft, that
©ur boat could not reach land, and we were obliged
to be carried on iliore. We were fet down at the
fine Hone wharf lately built on the fliore : it is the
only one I have feen of this kind in the Levant. I
went firfl: with my Captain to a French- factor, who-
is kept here by the merchants in Rama, and is the
only Frank who dwells in Jaffa, being an old man,
and having two fons.

I WENT from thence to- the quarters of the Latin
monks, whoiire here to receive Filgrims, and take-
eare to forward them. They were two Monks,,
one Pried and one Layman, who was Procurator. I
had a- bad lodging, becaufe their building was very
fmall, and the avarice of the Turks did not permit
them to extend it, though they ought to have the
hirgell lodgings in the Levant, on account of the
number of travellers that land there; but I was welt
treated. The Procurator began direftly to make
preparations for my journey to Jerufalem. He
commenced with a queilion which I fliould wil-

TO THE HOLY LAKD. 117

Imgly have avoided. It was, Whether I came to
vifit the holy places out of devotion? 1 anfwered
without ambiguity, No. What, continued the
Monk, who was a Spaniard, travel to the Holy
Land without devotion ? i was for putting an end
to this difagreeable converfation, and began ano-
ther fubjeft, by talking of money. I counted to
him fixty-two piadres for myfeif, and the like fum
for my fervant. This money every Frank pays in
Jaffa, for his whole journey to Jerufalem and back
again. I left all my things in his charge till my re-
turn, only a fuit of cloaths and fome books, to dry
plants in, which were fent to jerufalem before me;
and I then put on a Levant coat and a Greek cap,
carrying nothing with me but my memorandum
book. After thefe preparations had been made,
the Procurator fent a meffenger to Jerufalem to ad-
vife them of my arrival, and I was obliged to v/ait
his return. I was well pleafed with this delay, as it
gave me time to reft myfeif, after a difagreeable
voyage, before I fet out on a journey yet more dif-
agreeable by land. I was now come into the Holy
Land, therefore had reafon to expeft continual in-
formations of holy things. The Monks began with
their hotel, by informing me that it was the holy
place where St. Peter had his fifning hut, and
where he threw the famous ring into the fea.
Every thing, even to the table on which we fupped,
was holy. The wine we drank came from the holy
defart where St. John dwelt; and the olives grew
on the Mountain of Olives near Jerufalem. Thefe,
independent of their holinefs, were of the bell kind
I had tailed in the Levant, being fuch as Paleiline,
always famous for Olive-trees, affords. Araongil
thofe who vifited me, during my (lay in Jaffa, was
jiderkof thecuffoms^who on the third day came tq

I 3 receivQ

ii8 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

receive the twenty-two piaflres, which every Frank
is obhged to pay to the cuftora-houfe of Jaffa, for
the privilege of coming on fliore and travelling in
the country. The inhabitants of the country, Ar-
menians, Greeks, &c. pay only half the fum. But
as 4000 perfons arrive yearly, befides as many
Jews, who come from all quarters of the world, this
may be efleemed a confiderable revenue for the
Turks ; and indeed they receive no other from this
uncultivated and almoft uninhabited country. The
greateft part of this money is by legacies left to
Mecca. A ihrewd difpofition, which appropriates
the revenue arifmg from one kind of fuperflition to
the maintenance of another.

The 4th of April, I went out to take a view of
Jaffa. This place, which may be called a little
town, is fituated near the fea, on a riling ground,
having a caflle on a rock, garrifoned by an officer
and fome foldiers, which commands the road; but
fome of the ordnance were honeycombed with ruff,
and others funk in the ramparts: in this negligent
manner the Turks keep their forts. The place was
Ibme years ago in a much worfe condition than at
prefent; but an Armenian from Conftantinople, for
reafons to me unknown, obtained liberty to im-
prove the buildings, which he did by rebuilding
the wharf already mentioned, and ere^fing fome
ftone houfes and magazines on the fhore, v/hich
give the place an appearance from the fea fide, much
preferable to the miferable profpeft it formerly af-r
forded. The other houfes in the town are poor
huts, chiefly inhabited by Turks and Arabs, toge-
ther with fome Greeks and Armenians, whofe
Monks have each an hotel here for the reception of
Pilgrims. The country round the town is not yery
agreeable: the roads are broad and level,, but incon-
venient

TO THE HOLY LAND. 119

Tenient from the quantity of loofe fand which covers
them : the handfome plain, which reaches as far as
Rama, begins at a fraall diftance from the town,
near which are fome pleafant gardens after the
manner of the country, where in particular I found
fome Fig-trees, as beautiful as any I had feen in the
Levant, Here were likewife feveral Sycamores,
which are fcarcer as you advance in the country.
The hedges were overgrown with different kinds of
prickly plants, in which the wild beafts had their
paffages and habitations, particularly the little
Eaftern Fox Jackal, who is to be found in large
timbers in this neighbourhood.

J 4 TO

ISO TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

TO JERUSALEM.

THE 5th of April, about noon, I travelled
from Jaffa, accompanied by my merchant
from Leghorn, and two French Monks. We got
from the Monks in Jaffa, whofe bufmefs it is to ac-
commodate with necelTaries thofe who intend to vifit
Jerufalera, miferable affes, and yet worfe faddles,
together with ten Arabs and two Turkifli horfe-
men to conduft us, who received us at the town's
end. The whole country from Jaffa to Rama con-
fifls of little hills; between thefe are level and
handfome vales, which extend in large plains. A
part is turned into corn fields, but mofl of it lies
wafle. The ground here confifts of a loofe reddifli
iandy mould ; and I have never feen in any place
the ground fo caft up by moles as in thefe
plains. There was fcarce a yard's length between
each mole hill. This is an advantageous circum-
ifance for all forts of felf-fown wild plants; there-
fore entire plains were covered with Buphthalmum
foliis oblongis dentatis ; or Oxeye, with oblong
dentated leaves; which made them much yellower
than our Swediili meadows are in the month of
June, from the Caltha Paluftris and Ranunculus,
or Marfh-marygold and Crowfoot. In other places
the fields were white with a fort of Matricaria,
or Feverfew. In three places, we had fine vales
abounding with Olive-trees. Cranes, the inhabit-
ants of uncultivated countries, were here to be found

in

T O J E R USA L E M. 121

in great numbers. At four o'clock we came to
Rama, and alighted at the fine convent, which, if
.we except Jerufalem, is the beft in the Holy Land.
In the afternoon of the 7 th, the Prefident at the
■Holy Sepulchre in Jerufalem went with the greateft
part of the Monks to the church, where the Holy
Sepulchre is, to remain there till Eafter day, after
.they had firfl made a holy vifit in the morning of
the 4th, to the place where the garden Gethfemane
had been. About three o'clock in the afternoon,
the Monk, who was appointed to wait on me, con-
ducted me to the famous temple where the places
were ihewn, which Chrift, by his fufferings, death
and burial, has immortalized in memory. Before
.the door of the temple is a little place, to which one
defcends by a flair cafe of ten or twelve fteps. This
ferves for a market, in which Paternofters were the
chief commodity. The place on which the temple
is built, is faid to be that which formerly was called
Golgotha, or the place of Skulls. The Europeans
imagine this is a hill or rifing ground ; it is quite the
contrary, a va}e or deep ground. We now went
into the temple, which at its entry had two doors,
one befide the other, but one of them was walled
up. Before the entry we found three Turks,
a Scherif or Lawyer, a Janiffary, and^ a Bo-
flangi, who were ordered thither by the Regency
of the country. The bufmefs of the firfl is to
mark down the nam^es of thofe who go in, for
fake of the payment, which the Turkiih Regency
takes froin th€ Chriflians who vifit this place, as it
belongs to the Turks. The latter fliould take care
and prevent quarrels between Chriflians of various
denominations, who pay their devotions here. The
lirfl thing I was lliewn at my entrance, was the flone
on which Chrifl's body, as they fay, was laid and

' anointed

122 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

anointed by the women, before it was placed in the
grave. It is directly oppofite the door, and a few
fleps from it, furrounded with high iron rails. It is
a fine flab of white marble, about fix feet long ancj
three broad. This belongs to the Latins ; for each
kind of Chriftians, except Proteftants, pofTefs cer-
tain holy things. From thence we went into the
holy Sepulchre, which is in the midft of the choir,
being the center of the church, and belongs to the
Latins.

In the afternoon of the 8th, I went to fee fome
,of the remarkable places in the town. i. The
Bazar, or market place, which is miferable, and
contains few valuable goods. 2. A houfe, in which
the mother of the fons of Zebedee lived, as the
Monks report. The Maltefe had it for their dwel-
ling, whilfl they were mafters of Jerufalem. The
Greeks have now turned it into an inn for pilgrims,
and have a little chapel there. 3. A church of the
Syrians, which is faid to have been St. Mark'?
houfe. They fliew a ftone veffel, in which the
Apoflles are faid to have baptized the primitive
Chriftians. 4. The place where Annas's palace for-
merly flood; iind where Chrift was tried, which be-
longs to the Armenians, who have a little chapel
there. -^Before the houfe ftands an old Olive-tree^
which thefe people have in great veneration : the
ftem of it is covered over with earth, and it has
only fome branches above ground. They fay that
Chrift was tied to this tree whilft the trial conti-
nued. 5, Another Armenian chapel, faid to be
iDuilt on the place where Chrift was examined be-
fore Caiaphas : this was not far from the other, but
without the town gate. In both was a little (c->
parate chamber well ornamented, exa£lly over the
place where the aiTair happened, which was painted

in

I

TO JERUSALEM. i^g

In It. In the chapel of Caiaphas, the altar confifted
of a done eight feet long and five feet high, faid
jto be the fame which had beei> laid on Chrill's
grave at his burial, and the women wouI4 have
taken away, but found it too large. It was now
covered with mortar an inch thick, and was of "the
hard limeftone, common in Palefline. In fome
places they have left it bare, for devout Pilgrims to
. kifs : here was likewife painted Peter's denial of
Chrifl:, From thence we went out through one of
the town gates, and came immediately on the holy
, njount Sion, fo famous in the days of David. It is
now a defart flat and level, fituated immediately
without the ramparts. It is occupied by, and left
to the Chriflians for a burial place, where all deno-
minations of them bury their dead. Hence we
could fee a Turkifli Mofque, with a handfome
cupola, erefted over David and Solomon's grave.
In this fame place, they fay, Chrifl: inftituted the
Lord's Supper, and the Holy Ghofi: came upon tlie-
Apoflles. No Chriftian can approach nearer to
this molt principal of holy places, than Sioii, which
is at two guns iliot diftance. I botanized on the dry
and poor Sion, and found fome common plants
there, viz. Allium pallens, Veronsnfe ; Belonica ojfici-
nalis ; B'lfcutella didyma ; 'irifoliuni alobofum, tO'
7nentofiim, refupinatum; Ephedra diftachia'^.

The 9th in the forenoon, I paid a vifit to the
Patriarch of the Armenians, with whom I had been
acquainted in Smyrna. He refided in the convent
of this nation, which is the largefh in Jerufalem,
larger than that of the Latins, and the next to it in
riches. It has above 1000 chambers for Pilgrims,
befide thofe of the Monks. The rich Armenian
nation, which is more inclined to devotion, if not

* Two Lrts of Garlick, Betony of the fhops, Buckler Mullard,
ijjree foits of Trtfoi!, and the Snrubby Horletaii.

fuperftition,

Z54 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

fuperflition, than any other nation of the Eall, hath
by pilgrimages put this their fpiritual dwelling in
Jeruialem into fo refpeftable a condition. There is
not a year pafles but more than looo Pilgrims ar-
rive from Armenia, Perfia, and Turkey, who never
ieave it without giving confiderable alms. The cha-
pel which they have here in the convent is the hand-
fomefl of all the private chapels in Jerufalem j the
■whole is adorned with rich hangings, fine painting^-,
and an innumerable quantity of valuable filver
lamps, fome gilt, and almofl all made by eminent
mafters. Going home, I palTed by David's caflle,
which at this time is the name of a Turkifli fort,
and the only one with which they think themfelves
able to defend Jerufalem. This is almofl totally
deflroyed, as are all the fortreffes belonging to the
Sultan. On a platform lay a dozen of cannon,
which muft be cafl over again before they can be
ufed. This fort lies on a low ground, and is not
fituated fo as to command the town. It ferves only
to give fignals by firing fome cannon on the feflivals
of the Turks. Jerufalem has amongft its inha-
bitants about 20,000 Jews. The Jew women go
here with their faces uncovered; this the Turks
have ordered, that they may be known from their
own women. The greatefl part of the Jews here
are poor, as they have no opportunity of trafficking;
for without it they cannot thrive in any part of the
world. They have no other income here than
what they can get from the Pilgrims of their na>
tion, who come far and wide from all places to pay
their refpecls to the feat of their forefathers. Their
Rabbi has large revenues from his brethren through-
out the whole world, of which the Turks draw the
greatefl part; for Jews as well as Chriflians mufl
conflanily bring offerings to their altars^ if they will
kifs their holy places in peace.

^ T Q

1 O J E R I C H a

TO J E R 1 C tl 6.

ASTER day fell tliis year on the fith of

April, new ftyle. After di-^^ine fervice, and

all the ceremonies were ended at the holy Sepul-
chre, we went to St. Salvador to dine. At dinner
the Superior broke the filence, which had lafted
during the Lent ; and at the fame time proclaimed,'
that all who intended to make the journey to Jordan,-
and the remarkable places- adjacent, fhould be ready
to go with the Caravan after dinner. We affembled
at the time appointed, and found a company of
4000 people, Greeks, Armenians, Goptites, Sy-
rians, and a few Roman Catholics. From the Latiri
convent were the Superior, the Procurator^ and-
Vicar, with about thirty Monks, the interpreters
and Janiffaries of the convent. The Caravan was'
kd by the Governor of Jerufalem with 300 foldiers,
and was accompanied by the Arabian Princes and
commanders from the confines of thofe places'
through which we were to pafs. The Governot
makes a good deal of money by this journey, con-^
fidering the fhort time and little trouble that is em-^
ployed in it ; for he receives from each of the in-
habitants four, and from a Frank ten piafiers. Be-
diany, famous for the raifmg of Lazarus from the
dead, was the firfl remarkable place we came to,
about three quartern of a mile from the town..

We

126 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

We were fliewn the place where Lazarus's Sepul-
chre had been; over which was erefted a Httle flone
hut, and the ruins of an old houfe, but no other
figns of a town or building, which formerly muft
have been there. After travelling two leagues, we
refted at another old demolifhed houfe, which was
reported to be a remarkable place by the Monks*
It would make one fmile to be Ihewn a place where
an affair happened, which perhaps never did hap-
pen; for they fay this was the place where the
man fell in amongfl the robbers, and waspafTedby
the Prieft, but taken up by the Samaritan : a pa-
rable which Chrifl delivered after his ufual manner,
and therefore cannot be affigned to any particular
fpot. Not far from this place, is a hill on which
the Chriflians in the time of the Croifades had a
fort. On this road the original fituation of Judea
may be feen, which is the fame as it hath been from
time immemorial; though many divines contend^
that Judea hath undergone a change, or, according
to their manner of fpeaking, hath been transformed
fmce the death of Chrifl. Judea is a country full
of hills and vales, and as fuch it has been defcribed
both in the Old and New Teftament; where it is al-
ways called a hilly land, and is every where famous
for its mountains. The hills are all of a moderate
height, uneven, and are not of any mathematical
figure, like many others, which are either of a
conic, hemifpheric, or fome other fuch form^ At
firft, and nearefl to Jerufalem, they confifl of a very
hard limeflone, which approaches to the nature of a
flint, of a whitifli colour, or pretty near a pale
yellow. They afterwards, and nearer the Dead Sea,
confifl of a more loofe limeflone, fometimes white
and fometimes greyifh; between which are layers
of a reddilh mieaceous ftone, or Sa?!u?n punm

micauum.

TO JERICHO. Hi

micaceum. Near Jerufalon grow diiFerent forts of
plants on thefe hills, efpecially Ceratonla^ Carob-
tree; Myrtus^ Myrtle ; and 'Tereblnthus, Turpentine-
tree; but farther towards Jericho, they are bare
and barren. The vales, like the hills, are not fruit-
ful, but deferted and uncultivated, being full of
pebbles, and without vegetables ; neverthelefs, the
earth confifts of a good red mould, and would am-
ply reward the hufbandman's toil. In the begin-
ing they are fomewhat narrow, but become wider
nearer Jordan. Thefe interchanges of hills and
vales, make the roads in Judea as dangerous as in
any place whatever; and they could not be travelled
with any but Arabian horfes, which are ufed to go
upon fuch ftony roads as feem irapalTable, and per-*
form it with great fagacity. I have had fuch proofs
of this as I (hould fcarce believe, if I had not ieen ic
myfelf, efpecially on the journey from Jericho tof
the Dead Sea : but though thefe creatures are ufed
to trot in the hills, they will blunder unlefs they
be well governed. This I faw by thofe on which
the Monks rid, who were but indifferent riders,
and therefore their horfes feemed to have forgot
the expertnefs and fafety with which they went
when managed by an able horfeman. The fun had
already hid himfelf behind the hills of Stony
Arabia, and the moon come from her retreat ; wheii
we, at eight o'clock in the evening, arrived at our
encampment, which was laid out on the great plain:-
of Jericho, that extends two leagues in length along.
the Dead Sea. Here we found tents erected for us,-
which by the care of the Procjirator had been-
brought. thither; under which we had a pleafang^
and delicious fupper, and reded during the darkell
part of the night. My Herbarium ferved mt for a
pillow. I was happy in having this, when the red-
of the company, and the hiperior himfelf, hi:d no-

thiiix

128 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

thing to lay on but the bare earth. If our bed whs
not convenient, our reft was not long. We aroie
before day -break to go to the mountain where Chrifl
failed and was tempted by the devil : we came
thither at fun-rife, and began to afcend before the
iieat fhould incommode us. The mountain is high
and pointed ; and on our left, as we afcended, was a
deep valley, towards which the rock was perpen-
dicularly fteep. It confifts of a loofe white lime-
flone, feixed with another that is greyifh and
harder. The way up ta its higheft point is danger-
ous beyond imagination. It is narrow, fteep, full
of rocks and ftOnes, which obliged us frequently to
creep over them before we could accomplifti our de-
fign. The difficulty is encreafed by the valley on-
one fide ; which, befide its terrible afpe^t, is danger-
ous in cafe one fhould flip, as in fuch cafe it would
be impoffible to efcape death. Near the top of
the mountain are the ruins of an old Greek con-
vent, which fliew how the Monks and Anchorites of
the ancient Chriftians lived, and what places they
inhabited, viz. fuch as really inclined them to lead a
lonely, detached, and devout hfe : therefore de-
farts and inacceffible rocks were chofen by the pri-
mitive Chriftians for their dwellings, where they
might offer up their prayers in folitude. The former
are yet occupied by the Coptite Monks in Egypt,
for they have two convents in the defarts; and with
refpeft to the latter, the Greeks preferve the an-
cient dwellings of their forefathers in Mount Sinai,
Saba, St. Elias, and other places in the Eaft. I
went as far up on this terrible mountain of teinpta-
tion as prudence would permit, but ventured not to
go to the top, whither I fent my fervant to bring what
natural curiofities he could find, whilll I gathered
what plants and infe<Sts I could find below j of the

latter

TO JERICHO. I2P

latter I found a very curious and newCimex, or bug.
I had time enough to view the mountain and ad-
jacent country, when we broke up at nine o'clock,
and continued our journey to Jericho, and travelled
over a part of its large plain, which was entirely
defart and uncultivated, bringing forth a number
of the trees that afford the oil of Zacchseus, and fome
Rhamnus call'd Chriil'sThorn. We came, after a little
time, to the fountain of Eliflia, which is the name of
a fine fpring of frefli water, fituated in a vale, and
furrounded with divers fine trees, viz. Salix fafsaf,
Lonicerse afiEinis floribus coccineis ; and, amongfi: the
reft, fome Fig-trees, which grew there wild. We
continued our journey over a vale of this plain, in
which the Arabians had fown barley for their
horfes ; and this was the only cultivated fpot of
ground I had feen between Jerufalem and Jericho,
a country of a good day's journey in extent. We
came rowards noon to Jericho, or two ftones call
from the place where they fhew fome remains in
memory of this famous town. At this time there is
not the leaft building, except the walls of an old
houfe, which the Monks, who are apt to fan^lify
every thing, have called the houfe of Zacchasus,
who, as they fay, climbed up in a Sycamore tree,
growing on this road, to fee Chrift. But the Chrif-
tians of the Eaft fay that he climbed up in a different
kind of tree, which now grows common here, and of
whofe fruit the Arabs exprefs an oil, which the Pil-
grims purchafe under the name of Zacchasus's oil.
The Grecian text plainly calls it Sycomiorus; which in
the Swediili tranflation, and by Luther, is erroneoufly
called a Mulberry tree. The Sycamore does not
grow near this place at prefent, but is to be found
in other parts of Judea nearer the fea; and might
have been planted here when the country was in-

K habited

130 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

habited and cultivated. We returned in the after-
noon to our tents; and after dinner I walked out to
fearch for Natural curiofities around Jericho, efpe-
cially near the rivulet that runs acrofs the plain. The
famous Afclepias gigantea of Judea, and the tree
whofe flowers referable a Honeyfuckle, and hath thick
leaves, were the mofl remarkable plants I found.

We broke up from Jericho dire£dy after mid-
night, to go to Jordan. We travelled over the re-
maining part of the plain of Jericho, and therefore
had a good road. We came before day-break to
the fhore of Jordan, three leagues from the Dead
Sea. Here mafs was read by feven Priefts. 1 ob-
ferved the different breadths of Jordan. Here it
was about eight paces over, the fliores perpendi-
cular, fix feet high, the water deep, muddy, rather
warm than cold, and much inferior in goodnefs to
the Nile. On the fhores grew Rhamnus,Vitex Agnus
Caflus, a Willow of which Pilgrim.s make ftaffs. "We
travelled hence to the Dead Sea, accompanied by
an Arabian Prince. The plain reached to the fea,
and was three leagues long, level, with fome fmall
rifmg grounds difperfed in different places ; between
which were narrow vales, uncultivated and barren.
The foil is a greyifli fandy clay, fo loofe that our
horfes often funk up to the knees in it. The whole
furface of the earth was covered with fait, in the
fame manner as in Egypt. The foil therefore was
Egyptian, and might be as fruitful if it were tilled;
and, without doubt, it was fo in the time of the
Ifraelites. The river had thrown up a quantity of
Willow at its mouth. The fliore confiiled of the fame
clay as the large plain over which we had paifed.
In fcveral places were perpendicular ftrata formed
of a reddifh brittle earth; which, without doubt, will
in time become Ikte, inclofed m limeftone, fuch as

TO JERICHO. 131

Is to be found in the different parts of Judea nearell
the Dead Sea. The flones on the Ihore were all
C)uartz, of different colours and fizes. We fol-
lowed the whole length of the fea ihore. Here I
found Quartz flones in the form of a flate, which is
one of the rareff Natural curiofities I got in my tra-
vels. If it was burnt, it fmelt like Bitumen ; which
proves that it had its origin from it, like all the flate
of this country. We took another road to our en-
campment, and followed the foot of that mountain,
which at this time divides Arabia Petrsea from the
Holy Land ; and was formerly the boundaries of rhe
Ifraelites who lived on this, and the other fide of
Jordan. A Lichen covered in feveral places the clay
ground in this large plain, \^hich was fomewhat
ftrange in an open defart. There grew in feveral
places of this defart, the Tamarilk tree ; Reaumuria ;
a kind of the Arabian Kali, and a labiated flower
of Linnceus j clafs of Didynamia ; this had a foetid
fmell, and is called Bafel by the Arabs, which fignifies
a Leek. I found but one fhrub of the Mimofa Ni-
lotica, or true Acafia ; which has been brought hither
by birds from Arabia, its proper and native country.
In a place near the foot of this mountain, is a river
that has its fhores covered with Reed, which does
not grow near the Dead Sea. We faw on the top of
a mountain, the Greek Convent St. Saba, famous in
former times ; and where, in the firfl ages of Chrifti-
anity, 4000 Monks were maintained, who lived there
in caves. The Greeks continue to make pilgrimages
hither, and have Monks fent hither as a punifliment
for fome tranfgreffions. As we continued our journey,
T found the Partridge of Arabia, or the Holy Land,
which hath never been before defcribed; and 1 think
it alone worth a journey to the Dead Sea. Thefe
birds are undoubtedly the Quails of the Ifraelites.
K 2 TO

13? TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

TO JERUSALEM.

GOOD Friday fell on the 1 2*^ of April, new fly] e.
Every one may imagine that it was particu-
larly celebrated in Jerufalem, as being the place
where thofe things happened, which make this day
facred to all ChriOJans. The ceremonies at the
holy Sepulchre were thefe : i .We went in the church
at three o'clock in the afternoon, when the officium
began as ufual; and ended when the Superior fell
en his knees before the door of the holy Sepulchre,
and faid his prayers. 2. At fix o'clock we went into
the little convent, which the Latins have befide the
chureh, through which they go into the vellry room.
Here we fupped, which was the miferableft meal I
ever eat : it confifled of a head of lettuce ; the de-
ficiency was to be made up with bread and wine;
two material articles for the refrefhment and fufte-
nance of man, and which the Monks always had
very good. To be more at liberty, which is hard to
obtain in a cloifter. I went with a Jefuit, who was a
Pilgrim, into another chamber, where we were re-
frelhed with Hebron wine, and excellent bread,
baked with oil, that we might fapport a whole
night and day's fatigue in beholding the ceremonies.
A Capuchin, who came immediately after to us,
made a better fupper than either of us; in virtue of
a Canon ufed by the Monks, which he rehearfed :
c " Humidum

TO JERUSALEM. 133

** Humidum non rumpit jejunium;" but he. added
" modice fumtum." 3. At eight o'clock, the proceffion
began to the moft remarkable places in the church.
Whilll: this was doing, feven fermons were preached
in different languages, which was the bell of any
thing that was done. The firfl: was preached in the
veftry room, before the proceffion went out; during
which the Monks underwent difcipline, as they call
it, or whipt themfelves in memory of the fufferings
of Chrift. They had fermon and difcipline amonglf
themfelves, without any fpeftators. Upon this the
proceffion came out into the church, and halted
firft, where the cloaths of Chrifl had been divided ;
and here the fecond fermon was preached in
French, by a Monk from the Low Countries.

We afterwards went to the place of crucifixion,
belonging to the Greeks, under which they have
their magnificent choir. Here they preached a
third fermon, on the place where Chriil was nailed
to the crofs; and the fourth, not far from thence,
where the crofs was fet down, and where they fhew
the hole which is open, round, of half a fpan dia-
meter, and lined with filver, over which the Greeks
have built a fine altar. Here the firll was preached
in French by the fame Monk, and the other in Ita-
lian by a German. We defcended hence, and came
to the (lone where Chrifl's body Vv^as anointed:
here was preached a fermon in Arabian, and at
eleven o'clock we finifiied the proceffion at the
grave, where a flow and zealous Spaniard tried our
patience.

The 15th, I went to fee thofe places in the town
which had hitherto efcaped my notice, and which
were thought remarkable, i. Where the old city
fonr^erly ended, which is now in the middle of th<;
new. 2. V/here St. Veronica dried the face of Chriil

K 3 with

134 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

with the famous napkin, g. Where Chrift's judg-
ment was read, " JefusNazarenus Rex Juda?orum,"
where now {lands a broken column, erected by St.
Helena, in memory of the place. 4. Where Chrifl:
fell down, tired by the weight of the crofs. 5. The
place where Pilate iliewed Chrift to the people, and ■
faid, " Ecce homo ;" where are the ruins of a theatre
and an arch pretty high. 6. Where Mary Mag-
dalene obtained the Remiilion of Sins : here the
Turks have a wretched Mofque. 7. The palace
-of Herod, now the ftable of a Turk. 8. The
Tower, which defended itfelf longed again Vefpa-
fian. 9. The place where one of the gates to So-
Jcmon's temple flood, i o. The grotto where the
Virgin Mary is faid to have been, born : over this
the Turks have a large well-built Mofque, which be-
fore was a fine church. Here was a fine court;
and in it grew Iris florentina, Jafminum fruticofum,
Amygdalus and Rhus coriaria. 1 1. An old fquare,
and formerly-magnificent ciflern or pool; in which
the angel ftirred the water at Bethefda, that came
from Fons Signatus. 12. A gate of the town St.
Mary, which was fliut, like all the others, daring
the time of pilgrimage. 13. The hofpital of St.
Helena, formerly a magnificent building, now an
lioufe for the poor, poifefled by the Turks : here
were feven large copper kettles, which are faid to
have been here from the firfl foundation, and two
were yet ferviceable. 14. The palace of Pilate,
now the feat of the Turkiih Governor, but'almofl
ruined. 15. Hence we fiiw the temple of Solo-
mon, which is an o£l:angular well-conditioned
Mofque, with a fine court before it. In going out
from the court of Pilate's houfe, the place is fliewn
where Sandta Scala flood, which is preferved in
Rome as a valuable relique. 1 6. The prifon of

Peter,

T O J E R U S A L E M. 135

Peter, which is yet ufed by the Turks, to imprifon
thofe guiky of great crimes. 1 7. A Greek chape?,
where Abraham intended to offer his fon Ifaac on
the place of Skulls. The holy Sepulchre is in the
middle of the church, which is built over the holy
places, in the middle point of that choir which be-
longs to the Latins, and which is the middle part of
the church. The chapel round the holy Sepul-
chre, is quadrangular, confiding of two apartments ;
the exterior can hold twelve people, and the inte-
rior fix. In the interior apartment is a coffin of
marble, on one fide of the wall, over the burial
place : over this hang a number of lamps, belong-
ing to all the different fe(5ls. The chapel is ruin-
ous, and cannot be repaired on account of the diA
fenfions of the fefts. Directly oppofite the door of
this chapel, the Greeks have their magnificent
choir ; and over it is the place where Chrifl was
fixed to the crofs, belonging to the Greeks, built in
a half cyhndric form. The large choir adjoins alfo
to a gallery, of which the Armenians have a fhare,
confiding of a fpace, containing feven columns for
their chapel. The Syrians have under this their
chapel. The Coptites have theirs behind the chapel
of the holy Sepulchre. The vefiry room of the
Latins is under their gallery; from which they go
into their little convent, where they have conllantly
ten or twelve monks.

On the i6th, I faw what I do not effeem the
leaf! curiofity in Jerufalem. This was the Pharma-
copcea of the Latins; which, on account of the rich
ftores of Drugs and Medicines, may fafely be
reckoned one of the mofl valuable in the world. It
was amazing to fee what quantities of the dearefl
Prugs their magazine contained. All forts of

Jw 4 balfama.

136 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

balfams were to be found here, to the value of fome
thoufand piafters. Here were feveral pounds of the
valuable Mumia mlneralis from Perfia, vs^hich is fold
at three ducats. The Indian and American drugs
come all from Spain, and are chiefly given as pre-
fents. Here is prepared the Jerufalem Balfam, fa-
mous in thefe countries, which is a preparation made
of all kinds of balfams, and a number of aromaticks
diifolved in fpirit of wine. Of this they make yearly,
in the fummer folllice, a quantity that cofts 150
ducats at Jerufalem. It is very ufeful in all frefh
external wounds; but too hot to give internally.
However, they give it in blood-fpitting and con-
tufions, from ten to twelve drops. The M^hole Phar-
macopoea is valued at 100,000 piaflers. The Greeks,
Armenians, Syrians and Coptites, who all follow
the Julian Calendar, had Eafler eve on the 17th. At
two o'clock in the afternoon, we went to fee the fa-
mous facred fire ; one of the moll remarkable rites
to be feen at any place of divine worfliip. All the
Chrillians of thefe denominations believe, that on
Eafter eve a fupernatural fire com.es up out of the
holy Sepulchre, and this they call holy or facred.
They believe, that their prieils, by a miracle, call
it down from heaven on this day. One prieft of
each fe<5l goes down into the holy Sepulchre at two
o'clock. The Greek prieil goes into the innermofl
apartment, and the others into another chapel, be-
hind that apartment belonging to the Coptites.
They there fay prayers by themfelves; and to thofe
the common people afcribe the coming of the fire.
In the mean time the Greeks, who are the moft dif-
orderly Chrillians, ufe various inventions in the
choir round the Sepulchre; fuch as the ancients de-
fcribe to have been ufed at their Bacchanals. Boys
dance and ilvip about, reprefenting the death and

refurretStion,

TO JERUSALEM. 137

refurreftion, and praftice a tlioufand other follies
of which the heathens would have been afhamed.
This they do, at leall fo they fay, to w^arm the
earth, that the fire may come up more eafily. At
four o'clock, all the three nations began a procef-
fion; and a little while after, a lamp was brought
out of the grave, which they believed to have been
lighted by the facred fire.. There was fuch a fight-
ing with torches and flambeaux, becaufe every one
was defirous of lighting his at the facred fire, that
it occafioned a greater and more deteftable noife,
than is even heard in a market place or a bear
garden. The moft entertaining fight was the
manner in which the Turks treated the Greeks on
their fefi:ival. About twelve ftout men polled them-
felves at the entrance of the Sepulchre : fome had
whips, other flicks, wnth which they laid on the
crouding multitude, without paying any regard to
great or fmall, fpiritual or temporal: they even
fpared not the Bifiiop's gown; for as the Greek
Biihop was carried out on the Ihoulders of his con-
gregation, with the holy lamp in his hand, he re-
ceived unexpeiledly a hard flroke with a flick over
one hand: yet they muft bear this treatment; and,
blind with fuperflition, they fuffer it with pleafure.
If the Turks did not ufe precaution, and banifli as
much as polfible the diforder that would enfue, this
fcene would never end without fome unhappy ac-
cident. The Franks or Latins look with difdain oa.
this fuperflition, and thofe who think rationally do
the fame; but here the ilupid vulgar mufl be kept
in the fuperditious imagination they have long had;
befides, it is certain, that of 1000 Pilgrims who now
yearly arrive, not ten would come, were it not for
the facred fire : to let it go over their faces, and the
women over their, breafi;s; to let fome of theirwhifkers

and

138 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

and beards be burnt, in order to fan£llfy them-
felves. Another powerful motive for their pil-
grimages is, to waih themfelves in Jordan, the
water of it being no lefs fan(5llfying than the former
element. It is a matter of confequence to receive
the facred fire from the Bifliop firft; and confe^
quently it cofts much in a place where holy things
are fo valuable. Some rich merchant, for the moit
part an Armenian or Syrian, as the Greeks are ge^
nerally poor, offers himfelf for this purpofe. He
goes into the outward apartment, and is the firfl
who receives from the Bifliop in his torch, the fire
out of the lamp, which he hath lighted at the fa*
cred fire in the inward room. Three years ago an
Armenian from Perfia paid for the firil fire 30,000
fequins, a fum which perhaps never was given for
an anfwer from the Delphian Oracle. I'hefe re-
venues are divided between the four Convents to
maintain them ; it is therefore no wonder that they
fhould be foUicitous to keep them in force. The
Convent St. Salvator in Jerufalem, belonging to the
Latins or Roman Catholics, is the moll powerful
iind richefi. This is pofiTefifed by the Francifcaa
Monks of the Obfervation Order; confifling of all
the different Catholic European nations. Their
number is confiderable, but varies according to the
times. They may be always reckoned 1 00, more or
lefs, feculars and regulars. They remain there for
three years, except the Spaniards, who are per-
mitted to remain fix. They are governed by a
Guardian, Vicar, and a Procurator: the fir|t of
thefe is always an Italian, and keeps his ofiice fix-
years; the fecond is a Frenchman, and the third a
Spaniard. The bufinefs of the latter is the mod
important, as he has the entire management of every
thing that relates both to the hqly Sepulchre, and

the

TO JERUSALEM. 139

the Convent ; on which account there yearly pafies
through his hands, at leail: half a million of livres.
Thefe are the revenues of the Sepulchre and Con-
vent, of which little remains at the year's end.
The revenues arife from alms, -the greatefl part
from Spain and Portugal ; from thofe people who
permit the Barbarians to ruin their trade, and
plunder their country, without fupplying one plainer
for their chaftifement ; but fend yearly a confider-
able fum to Jerufalem, to be devoured by Turks,
their inveterate enemies, and by Monks, who are
ufelefs inhabitants in Europe, and unneceffary at
Jerufalem, where they are of no fort of advantage to
Chrirtianity, unlefs we can believe that their devout
kiffing of ftones has fome hidden virtue. France
gives a little. A thinking nation by degrees leaves
off all abfurd cufloms ; but the French, fmce the
time of Louis the Saint, have fomething elfe to
do befides making pilgrimages to Jerufalem. The
prefents to the holy Sepulchre from Germany are
{paring. A German Monk told me, that the Canon,
" Primum quiE neceffaria, deinde qu?e opus font,'*
prevented works of piety in that country. Alms from
the Polanders, though fuch zealous Catholics, are
quite out of the queilion, and few Pilgrims come
from that country.

On the 1 8th, when I took leave of the Arme-
nian Patriarch, he ordered me to be conduced into
his church of St. James, which is in his Convent, to
fee its ornaments^^ They are well worth feeing,
being, part all doubt, the richefl and mofl valuable
that any church in the Eafl can boafl: of, and perJ
haps equal to the ornaments of the largefl and
rieheft Chriflian churches in Europe. They con-
ihl of Palls, Bifhops Mitres, Surplice^s, Chalices,
Staffs, OHenforia, &c. Some of puce gold, the

others

I40 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

others of filver gilt, and all enriched with pre-
cious (tones. The Prieft's garments are all made
of the moll magnificent Huffs from India, and a
great part of them adorned with precious Hones.
The lamps in the church are all of filver, w^ell
wrought, and hung in fine order, being worth a
confiderable fum. All tliefe ornaments were this
day put on a large table in the choir, in order
to their being exhibited to the public on St.
James's day. The ornaments of the Latins arc
magnificent, and perhaps made in a better tafte;
but they themfelves own that the Armenian are
richer. The Greeks in this refpe£l are not to be
compared with either of them.

Without the town I faw, i. The Sepulchres
of the Kings, cut in a limeftone mountain; but they
are not to be compared to thofe of Alexandria. The
doors were of a harder limeftone, and turned upon
two hinges in the nature of axles. 2. The cave of
Jeremiah, where he wrote his book of Lamentations.
3. The prifon of Jeremiah, which is a ditch full of
water : here ftood the coffin of an ancient King, out
of which the Turks water their horfes. 4. St.
Stephen's gate, and befide it the place where this
Martyr was ftoned, which is a little remarkable
rock. 5. St. Mary's Sepulchre, over which is erefted
an handfome church, but without ornaments. Be-
fore it is a fine court, in which grew a Bird Cherry
tree, or Cherry Laurel (Padus) three fathoms
round. You defcend to the church, by a flair-cafe
five fathoms broad, containing forty-fix fteps. I
faw a fanftuary belonging to the Latins, in which is
dug a coffin of marble; and the graves of St. Ann
and St. Joachim on one fide of the ftair-cafe, and St.
Jofeph's on the other. ■ 6. The cave where Chrifl:
fweated blood, cut out in the mountain, with fome

thick

TO JERUSALEM. 141

thick columns to fupport it, Gethfemane, a place
where Chrift exhorted his Apofties. 7. Gethfe-
mane, at the foot of the mountain, a handfome little
fpot, with fix old olive-trees, belonging to the
Latins, who have them guarded by a Turk. 8, The
fpot where Chrifl was taken, a corner between two
walls. 9. The place where the difciples ilept, when
Chrifl was taken, not far from thence. 10. The place
where Thomas received the girdle of St. Mary, when
llie afcended into heaven. 11. A narrow road up
to the mountain of Olives, full of flint flones; on
the top of which is a chapel on the fpot whence
Chrifl afcended into heaven. This chapel is round,
with a cupola, has no ornaments, but a fine yard
furrounded with a wall. 12. Near this lafl is the
place where the angel appeared to Mary, and fore-
told her death. 13. A cave where St. Placida
lived thirty-feven years on bread and water. The
Turks have here a houfe for prayers, which no
Chriftian dare enter. 14. From a place on the
other fide of the mountain, we faw the Dead Sea
and Jordan. 15. I faw the place where the difci-
ples queflioned Chrifl about the lafl judgment.
16. Where Chrifl taught the difciples the Lord's
prayer : here was a ruined column. 1 7. A little
cave, wherein it is faid the apoflles compofed the
confefTion of faith. 1 8. The Sepulchres of the pro-
phets, nearer the foot of the mountain. 1 9. Jehofa-
phat'sVale with his Sepulchre. 2 o. Befide it the grave
of Abfalom; a fmall building, with a conic fleeple. In
this vale the Jews had one of their burial places,
2 1. Lower down in the vale, the place where Chrifl
fell, when he was taken. 22. On the decline of a
hill above the vale, a cave, wherein the difciples
hid themfelves when Chrifl was taken, near which
were two columns. 2 3. The Sepulchre of Zachary

the

142 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

the fon of Barach, cut in the mountain. 24. The
Virgin Mary's well, which yet hath water, but it is
unpleafant. 25. Hence was feen on the top of the
mountain, on the left hand, the remains of Solo-
mon's town Silvia, where he kept his 300 concu-
bines. The houfes are now inhabited by indigent
peafants. 26. An old pool, wherein it is faid the
blind man wafhed himfelf. 27. The tree where
Ifaiahwasfawed afunder. (Morus alba) a white Mul-
berry tree, flood here in blolTom. It is a fable of
the Monks, that this bears no fruit. 28. The Well
of Nehemiah, where he kept the facred fire. 29. I
likewife faw the grotto on a rifmg ground, where
the feven apoftles lay hid. 30. Pafled by Porta
Aurea, which was walled up, and returned over
Mount Sion.

T O

TO BETHLEHEM. 14^

TO BETHLEHEM.

I WAS determined to fee Bethlehem, and there-
fore received from the Governor an officer, and
from the Procurator a Monk, to condu(51: me : with
thefe I fet out from Jerufalem the 19th in the morn-
ing. The country was at firll pretty level, and the
earth till'd and fown with corn; befides which, fome
plantations of tobacco prefented themfelves to our
view. When we had reached half way, I was Ihewii
the place where, it is faid, Elias flept, when the
angel revealed himfelf to him. It was an oblong
pit in a rock, the length of a man, ftiaded by an
dive-tree. I know not whether the prophet found
this rock cut out in the manner it now is, or whether
the people of thefe latter ages have cut out this
kind of a bed, to give the ftory a better appearance
of truth : but whatever it be, the place was very
convenient to fleep in. The Greeks have on the
left hand, near this place, an old Convent, bearing
the name of the prophet Elias, which they fre-
quently vifit ; but the Latins do not. Direftly be-
fide it they fliew a grave, faid to be Rachel's : this
is an ancient ftrufture, large and well built, with a
dome over it. The other half of the way, the
country was ftony and uncultivated, and produced
tittle elfe befides fome olive-trees; and the befl of
thefe were deft royed fome years ago, in a tumult
I the

144 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

the Bethlehemites had amongfl themfelves. After
a journey of two hours, we came to Bethlehem at
nine o'clock : this is a large village, fituaied on a
high ground, the houfes ruined, and the inhabitants
lawlefs; partly Chrlflian Catholics, partly Maho-
metans, and all Arabian peafants. I went to take
my lodging in the Latin Convent, which is large,
well built, furrounded with flrong walls, fituaied
below the village on the left hand. In this Con-
vent are conflantly ten or twelve Monks. I was
here very well received, and entertained by the
Superior, a Monk from Dunkirk, who had been
chaplain in the French army when it took Bergen
op Zoom ; and by the organift, a Monk from Thu^
ringia, eighty years old, found and healthy, who
had known and fpoken to the prefent Archbifliop
of Sweden, Doftor Henry Benzelius, when he was
at Bethlehem. I employed the forenoon in behold-
ing that which made this obfcure place famous
throughout the whole Chriflian world ; I mean the
place which is here Ihewn, and faid to be that where
Chrifl was born and laid in the manger. We de-
fcended foroe fleps under ground, to come into the
cave where thefe two places are fliewn, viz. on the
left hand the place where the infant was born, and
on the right where he was laid in the manger. Over
both are erefted fmall altars, on which lamps are
kept conitantly burning. Over the cave is erefted
a very line church, of a particular architeflure;
after which, they fay, St. PauFs church in Rome is
built. The cave is under the choir. Without this
church is another, through which one cm likewife
go into the Convent : this church is large, well
built, with two rows of fine marble columns. Here
they alfo iliew the room, where St. Jerom is faid to
have kept his fchool and chapel. The Latins are

the

TO BETHLEHEM. 145

tlie fole pofleffors of thefe holy places in Beth-
lehem ; nor can the Greeks, though they have a
little Convent here, or other fe6i:s, vifit them, with-
out their permiffion. In the afternoon, we went to
fee fome remarkable places on the other fide of
Bethlehem, where fome monuments were fliewn,
which, they faid, were crafted at the time in whicli
the Jews were in their fplendour. We then fol-
lowed the foot of a mountain, which lay on the
right hand. Another hill extended itfelf towards
the left fide : between thefe was a vale, in which it
is fuppofed Solomon had one of his gardens (Hortus
Solomonis); and according to the relation, this
fliould have been his private garden, of which he
fpeaks in chap. iv. 12. of his Canticles. The placs
will well admit that Solomon might have formed
a garden here, though it is not by nature an agree-
able fiEuation, being in a bottom; but perhaps this
great Prince might chufe to improve nature by art,
as many other potentates have done. What feems
mod to have contributed to adorn this place, is
the aqujeduft from the well, of which I fliali fpeed-
ily make mention. It was carried by this place to
Bethlehem, and therefore could well have ferved to
have watered a garden on the way. In one place
of the vale, fome ruins of ancient buildings are to
be feen. After two hours travelling, we came to the
fpring of water which is fhewn under the name of
Solomon's Sealed Well. This is a fountain, which
n:0ws up out of the earth in a cave, cut in a mountain.
The cave confifts of feveral apartments, all cut out
and worked according to the rules of art. A little
below this fountain, and nearer Bethlehem, are the
three fquare refervoirs, one after the other; which,
by means of a fubterraneous aqusedu61:, receive the
water from the fountain. Whence, in the days of

L Solomon,

14^ TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Solomon, an aqncedu^]: is alfo fuppofed to have gone
to Jerufalem, conveying the water to the city, and
to the cifterns in the temple. The water is yet con-
veyed from hence to Bethlehem, and might with
cafe be conveyed to Jerufalem, if the Bethlehemites,
fworn enemies of the Hierofolymites, would permit
it. The water of this fountain is wholefome, and
not of the coldeft kind. Not far from the fountain
IS an old caftle, without doubt founded in the time of
the Croifades, and yet in a tolerable repair, but un-
occupied. On our return to Bethlehem, I was
fhewn a mountain of a conic figure a great way on
the right-hand of us, which the inhabitants to this
day call the Frank's mountain, in memory of the
Croifades; when the Chriltians left marks of their
prowefs in the very heart of the country. We tra-
velled by Bethlehem; and a little on the other fide,
came to the place where the angel appeared to the
fhepherds : there is a cave into which thofe de-
fcend who are inclined to fay their prayers. Whilil
my companions were doing this, I had an opportu-
nity of viewing a kind of a Plough; here ufed to
turn up the earth, on which I faw fomething which
1 had never feen in any other place, viz. They fix
a reed along the Plough-handle to the Ihare; at the
upper end of the reed is fixed a leather funnel.
The workman, by this invention, waters the earth
at the fame time he is ploughing it. Under his
left arm comes a pipe from a leather bag, filled
with water, which hangs on his ihoulders : out of
this he lets the water run into the funnel, which
through the reed waters the ground as he is plough-
ing ; a compendious method of watering the earth
in dry weather. I lay this night in Bethlehem,
and next morning, after I had botanized in this
neighbourhood, returned to Jerufalem. A difeafe

had

TO BETHLEHEM. 147

had got amongfl the Monks in Bethlehem, which
would have been ftrange to me, if I had not made
myfelf acquainted with ii in the North. The Scurvy,
w^hich I had never feen in Egypt, or the Levant,
had taken root in the Convent. The Monks, who^
were conftantly lliut up within their walls, for fear
of the Arabs, were obliged to eat fait Mi on their
fad days, being at a diflance from the fea, and thus
brought this ficknefs upon therafelves. They were
not ignorant of the virtues of Cochlearia (Scurvy
Grafs) which is the greateft remedy, in this difeafe,
of any Art hath yet difcovered; but it was not to
be found. I therefore advifed them to try another
plant of the fame tribe, which has been found of
fervice in that diilemper ; this was the Nafturtium
aquaticum (Water CrelTes) which I faw growing in
great quantities, in the moid places, near the v/ells
of Solomon. I defired the Monks afilifted with the
Scurvy, to prefs out the juice of this plant, and drink it
with milk, which they did, and found themfelves re-
lieved by it, as I was afterwards informed in Cyprus.
Bethlehem is by legacy left to Mecca, and therefore
is not under the Governor of Jerufalem's command;
but is under him who governs Jaffa, which likewife
belongs to Mecca. This certainly contributes much
to the licentious life the Bethlehemires lead, and
which hath rifen to a height, fcarce to be equalled
by any nation. They are almo/f in conftant quar-
rels with the Hierofolymites, or with the inhabitants
of Hebron, or fome other of the neighbouring vil-
lages; and tJ^ieir differences are feldom adjufted
without the effufion of blood, which fometimes is
confiderable. Five or fix years ago, the inhabitants
of Bethlehem and Hebron carried on fuch a war,
as deftroyed the greateil part of the bed inhabitants
of both villages; and the neighbourhood of Beth-

L 2 lehem

140 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Jehem was entirely laid wafte, its Olive-trees cut'
down, and the ftu'mps of them yet iliewn in woefui
remembrance of thofe diflenfions. The Bethlehe--
mites fcarce ever go to Jerufalem, at leaft they take
care not to come within its gates, at a time they are
at difference with the Regency or inhabitants of it j
for thefe lad would foon find means to revenge
themfelves of an enemy within their walls: and on
the contrary, thofe of Jerufalem mud take heed
not to venture too far out into the fields, towards
the fide of Bethlehem, in unpeaceaWe times; efpe-
eially as, on fuch occafions, to be an inhabitant of Je-
rufalem, is fufficient to make a perfon unhappy, who
hath not at all defervec -it. Thefe people have
likewife conftant difiTenfions amongfl themfelves^
not for the fake of religion, which in other places
is the fource of many evils. The Bethlehemites
have not narrow confciences in this matter. Here
live Chrillians and Mahometans, one with the
other, without ever quarrelling for the fake of re-^
ligion; but they have other reafons for quarrelling i
for example, their right to provide Pilgrims with
horfes; to take caffar from the travellers, of which
©ne party is in poffefilon, and the other would wil-
lingly be fo. Befides this, the Bethlehemites, like
all other inhabitants of Palsefiiine, both Chriftians
and Mahometans, are divided into two parties, which
are called the white and red enfigns, and who only
ftudy to fupprefs one another. The Turks take
advantage of this; and with a handful of men keep
in fubjeftion a country, whofe inhabitants are at va-
riance, which would cofl them much trouble if they
were united. But none fuffer more from thefe
wicked Bethlehemkes, than the Monks, their neigh-
bours. Thefe would be happy, if they were fafe
by beiitg iliut,. up within the wails of their Convent ;

but

TO BETHLEHEM. 149

b^t tliey every day apprehend being attacked in
iheir own chambers, by thefe robbers. They fur^
prife the Monks, either to obtain provifions, which
like mod other robbers they want continually, or
attack and force them to buy a quantity of Pater?
nofters, models of the grave of Chriit, crofTes and
other wares of this kind, which is the only employ
of all the inhabitants of this village. Of thefe they
have fo large a flock in Jerufalem, that the Procu=
rator told me, he had to the value of 15^000 piaflers
£>f reliques in the magazine of the Convent ; a fum
which one would fcarcely believe could be exr
pended in fuch things,' /-An incredible quantity of
them goes yearly to all the Roman Catholic counf-
tries in Europe, but molt to Spain and Portugal.
Great part is bought by the Turks, who come
yearly for thefe commodities. A number is yearly
fent by the Monks in Jerufalem, to be given as pre-
sents to the patrons of their order; and thefe are
befl paid for by other prefents they receive in re-
turn. No Pilgrim goes away, without carrying
with hira a flore of thefe wares ; and therefore the
making of thefe holy things i$ a conftant and certain
employ for the inhabit^ints of Jerufalem and Beth-
lehem, with which they niay 4rive on a monopoly
as lafling as the Dutch do, v/ith Nutmeg and Cin-
namon. The dexterity and jart with which they
make thejfe things, efpecially the Paternoflers, and
a Bull from the Pope, which grants indulgen?
^ies to thofe v/ho have Paternofters brought froii]L
thefe holy places, are circumftanpes which add to
their credit. On my return to Jerufalem, I was
feewn the place where the angel took the Prophet
Habakuk, and carried him to Babylon, and another
place, with fome ruins of a building, which my
guide told m? w^is the houfe in which the Patriarch

L 2 Jacob

I50 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Jncob dwelt. If the palace of this Patriarch was
like thofe mod ufed to this day in Palfelline ;
namely, a tent made of a coarfe rugg ; thefe ruins
do not deferve the honour of bis name.

The 2ijfl, in the afternoon, I fet out from Jeru-
falem, in company with a number of Monks; and
had terrible roads for four leagues from the city.
The Convent of St. Jeremiah was quitted and de-
Ifroyed, after the Monks had long ago been mur-
dered there. Here we paid caffar. Ysfe had now ano-
ther view of the Mediterranean Sea, from the mount-
ains of Judea. This was a very hard day's journey,
and which fcarcely afforded ns a drop of water to
cool our throats. In the evening we came to Rama.

The 22d, we faw St. George's church in Rama;
which is an ancient magnificent building under
ground, with well - conditioned columns, covered
with a dark green Mucor, and well Ikuated in a
handforae place. The church of forty martyrs had
likewife been a fine building under ground in its
time, but was now ruined. They further fliewed
us the remains of a Benediftine Convent, which was
now turned into a Mofque. Its magnificent fteeple
was yet preferved, from which all Judea might be
feen. The Turks fay, that thefe forty martyrs
Were forty robbers, who were puniflied with death,
and regard them as faints in their religion, as well
as the PapiJfs do in theirs ; wherefore they, at this
lime, began the pilgrimage, which they make every
year to this place, in memory of their robbers.

The 24th, I fet out early from Rama ; and after
three hours returned to Jaffa, over the fine and
fruitful plains which are between thefe two towns.
Rama is a fmall, but pretty handfome town, ex-
tremely well fituated on a fruitful plain, which af-
fords wine, cotton, and corn. Tho' it be an in-
land

TO A C R A. 151

land town, tliey carry on a good trade. Here is a
French conful to three merchants houfes, who bay
cotton, both raw and fpun, aihes, and large quantities
of foap. llama is now cliiefly noted for being the
refidence of the Turkifli commander, who, under
the title of Bey, governs jerufalera, Gaza, and
Rama, and to whom all Chrifiiians, as well as the fub-
jefts of the Turkiili emperor, who go to and from
Jerufalem, muif pay a duty of fom^e piaflers, which
makes a fine revenue. The Franks ak:>ne are ex-
empted from this.

The 30th, in the forenoon, I came to the Town of
Acta, after a voyage of twenty-fix hours from Jaffa.
We went with the little boat, which brought us over,
into the harbour,which is a gulf between the mountain
Carmel and the mountain of Galiiea, at the foot
of which Acra is lituated, clofe by the entrance of
the gulf. Here lay three French merchant fliips,
which is the only nation that continues to trade to
this port, and fetch its goods, of which the greateft
part confift s in raw cotton, which fome years amounts
to ten thoufand bales, each bale of a cantar of one
hundred rottoli of the country. I took lodgings at
the convent of the French monks, which is the only
European houfe in this town, and depends, as all
others in Syria and Egypt do, on the Spaniards In
Jerufalem ; I was here treated to my entire tatisfac-
tion. The board and lodoins; in the other convents
of Syria and Paleftine are preferable to thofe of Je-
rufalem. In the afternoon I paid a vifit to the French
vice-conful, who is here for the Hike of five merchants,
who carry on a trade to Marfeilles. Towards even-
ing I went about the town, to fee the moll remark-
able things here : I mean the work which a com-
mon Arab, who hath lately ufurped the govern-
ment of Galilee, ordered to be made round the
■ • L 4 town,

152 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

town, confilling of a wall four fathoms Iiigh, fur^
niihed with two llrong gates ; he began a baftion at
one corner without the wall, and a palace within.
This work, compleated by a rebel in fix months,
the Turkifh emperor would not be able to perform
in any place of Syria, of which he is lord, within
fome hundred years. Since the knights of Malta
became mafhers of Acra, nobody ever thought of
fortifying the place, tho' it is the key of Gahlee.
This Arab made ufe of the remains of their ruin'd
palace and caftlep and dug up the fubterraneous
ruins of old Ptolemais for the continuation of his
work ; and, according to the common report, fome of
the buried treafures' he fopnd were of ufe to hiiiji
in accomplifhing his defign. A broken granite co-
kimn, of the thicknefs of the Egyptian, was lliewn
me, which had been dug up out of the ruins. Thus
^'as this flone fo highly valued by the ancients as
tp have been formerly carried as far as Syria to
adorn their fplendid buildings. Over one of the
new city gates, which leads to Nazareth, the Arab
had ordered two lions to be cut in ft one, which
are very bad, being done by a Mahometan,
who, by his religion, is forbid to fuffer images ;
but the Turks of this age are not fo fcrupulous iii
the lefs material points of their religion, as their
anceflors. In returning to our lodgings, we went
into the fubterraneous vaults of the convent of St.
Clara, poiTeffed by the Francifcan monks before
the Turks took, it, and is faid to have been founded
by a lady, who, to avoid her cbflinate lovers, had
the courage to cut off her nofe, and live in folitudq
with a mangled face, rather than pleafe herfelf and
others with fuch an one as nature had given her.

The 2d of May, I travelled from Acra to Naza-
reili. Without the tovvu, on the right hand, we

met

TO -N A Z A R E T H. 153

met with the remains of a town formerly built
here. Round thefe the fields were in tillage, from
.whence they were carrying home the barley, which
in this country ripens about this time. To thefe
ruins belong the large mounts that are feen here,
over-grown with grafs, which are faid to be artifi-
.cially made, for the better building the town. We
afterwards came to a field, about three miles wide,
which bears every year a quantity of good cotton,
and had now been lately fown, as this was the pro-
per time. We travelled by a village called Rama,
inhabited by Chriflians. On the other fide of it
the country confided of fmall hills, or rather rifmg
grounds, covered with plants, and fine vales between
them. At the end of this field, the country round
us confifted of the fineft groves of the eailern Oak
(Quercus coccifera) whofe fiy, called Tenthredo, had
made its hard gaul, in which lay its caterpillar, with
.others dried up, which the infefts had already quitted.
The country here was like our Eafi: Gothia. From
thefe groves we came into the fine plains of Zebu-
Ion, above three miles long and three-quarters broad,
yet quite uninhabited, but not uncultivated, as the
greatefi: part of it is planted with cotton. We tra-
velled direfdy acrofs it, and on entering it we met
with one of the wells of the Ifraelites, deftroyed^
and at the end a fine grove of Oak, in which were
alfo fome Beech trees (Fagus fylvatica); here we
found fmall hills and vales, which we followed to*
Safari, a village ii;habited by .Greeks. In this
place the monks, who were with me, alighted, to
honour the ruins of an old defiiroyed church, which
is faid to have been built in memory of the mother
of St. Anne and St. Mary, who are reported to have
dwelt here. The inhabitants breed a great number
pf bees, to their confiderable advantage, and with

little

154 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

little trouble. They make their bee-hives of clay,
four feet long, and half a foot diameter, as in
Egypt : They lay ten or twelve of them on one-
another on the bare ground, without any thing un-
der them. Over every ten they build a little roof,
which makes their bee-hives exaftly refemble the
dog-kennels of our peafants. They wall up the
opening of thofe in which the bees are at work, and
leave only a little hole for them to go in and out.
In the empty hives, the opening is not fliut. The
dwellings of the people were miferable huts, made
of clay walls, in which they lay on the bare ground;
they have a little entrance on the earth, and no
windows, or other openings, except a hole for the
fmoak to go out. A little diftance from this vil-
lage, we came to a foil quite different, being hilly
and full of hard lime ftones, fuch as we met with
in Judea, of which this is a continuation under the
fame meridian thro' feveral countries, which is fome-
what remarkable. The fame plants are feen here
as in Judea, which before were not very common,
and fome fcarce to be feen, as KaH fruticofum. We
came to Nazareth at three o'clock in the afternoon,
after having made an agreeable journey, in a coun-
try where there are good roads and one may travel
in fafety.

As foon as we were come to Nazareth in the
evening of the 2d, we went to fee its remarkable
places. Thefe are, a handfome church in the con-
vent over the fan^luary of this place, where the
angel announced the Virgin Mary's pregnancy ;
a itone in the village without the convent, which
the monks faid was the table of Chrift, at which
he eat feveral times with his difciples. This is
large, flicks faff in the ground, and its upper fur-
face declines: it is made of the hard lime-flone

common

TO NAZARETH. 155

common in Judea. This flone is faid to have been
formerly covered with iron phttes. the marks of
which are yet to be feen. We went from thence
to a little church, which they fay (lands in the place
where formerly a fynagogue flood, in which Chrift
frequently preached when he was in Nazareth.
It once belonged to the Greeks, but was taken from
them by the Arabians, who intended to convert it
into a mofque : they fold it however to the Latins
for a certain fum of money, and it is now in their
poiTeilion. This is a late tranfaftion ; fo that they
have not yet had time to embelliili it, but intend
foon doing it. We next were fliewn the place where
the houfe of Jofeph, the fofler-father of Chrift,
hath flood, on which now ftand the remains of an
Arabian hut. The place itfelf is poiTeiTed by Ara-
bians, who have good houfes there. Below the vil-
lage, and near the road to Acra, is a good well be-
longing to the village, where the monks fay Ave-
Maria, for feven years indulgence, as the Holy
Mother is faid to have fetched her water here.
W^e went from thence to a line large cave, made
by nature in a hard lime-ftone mountain, which is a
fine natural curiofity, but is not holy. Nazareth
is at this time a large village, fituated in a vale,
with frone houfes in the manner of the country,
flrong and well built, but far from elegant. This vil-
lage can raife 100 fighting men, in cafe any troubles
ariie between the Galileans and Samaritans, which
frequently happens. The inhabitants confift of
Arabians and Chriftians, the greateil part papifts,
and fome few Greeks, who have only one prieft.
The convent of the Francifcans is large, furrounded
with itrong Wcdls, is rich, and hath conftantly from
fifteen to twenty-two monks, which have more pri-
vilege here than in any other place in the Holy

Land,

1^6 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Land, or perhaps in the Eail. They farm, from
the Ba{haw of Seyde, Nazareth, and two other vil-
lages in Galilee, for 4000 piaftres per annum.
For this they are at liberty to tax the inhabitants
of the villages, and punifli the wicked. In a word,
to govern both Arabians and Chriflians as they
think proper; for which purpofe they have an
Arabian officer of the village under them, who gc
yerns by their direftion.

We travelled from Nazareth to Mount Tabor :
it is a fine country, and confifts of forefls, through
which we could fee Samaria on our right upon ^
hill, a little on this fide of Mount Tabor. Below
this hill is the road that leads from Egypt to Dar
mafcus and Gonftantinople, which is large, broad,
and fine. After travelling two hours we began to
afcend Tabor, cooled by its agreeable dew, and re-
freflied by the milk of its fine herds of goats. |t
was a league up to the top, flony and difficult;
but we did not however difmount. On the top of
it was a fine plain, the fides of it rocky : between
thefe rocks are the remains of a church and build-
ing, ere£led in former times by the Chriflians, where
pilgrims pay their devotion. We could hence fee
the beamy of Galilee and Samaria. We defcended
jhe hill after reniaining there fix hours, when I ha4
botam?;eQ there. The bill is round, hath no pre-r
cipices, is about four leagues in circumference, beaU'?
tiful and fruitful. On leaving the mount we came
10 a little plain, at the end of which was a Chai:i
with a market-place, where the Arabs fold an4
bought hprfes, ajTes, camels, oxen, fheep, goats, &:c.
|iere began the plain of Efdralon, and extended
three miles to a village. At the entrance of it v/e
could plainly fee Tabor and Hermon. On this exf
tenfive plain, but little of which is cultivated, the
I .^r^bs

TO TIBERIAS. 157'

Arabs fometlmes light their battles ; and the prefect
rebel Daker flood for feveral months the Balhaw of
Seide. I met here an Arabian huntfman with a
falcon and fine dogs. The Arabs are great profi-
cients in what relates to hunting. On leaving Ef-
dralon, we came to almofl naked hills and dales, hav-
ing only fhrubs of Chrifl's thorn on them. With this
plain began the lingular flone, of which the Tibe-
rian mountains confifl. We had much trouble with
our horfes in this plain, being tormented by flies
and heat. We refrefhed ourfelves in the fhade of
a Fig-tree, under which was a well, where a fhep-
herd and his herd had their rendezvous, but with-
out either houfe or hut. Here I beheld the oxen
and cows cf Galilee, which conftitute a remarkable
part of this country's riches. They are all of a
very fmall fize, which fhews that the climate does
not occalion any difference in the growth of thofe
animals; mountainous countries and low lands
fooner occalion a difference in fize ; in the former
the black cattle are lefs than in Gahlee, and in the
latter larger, as in Scania and Egypt. The fame
profpeft of hills and plains continued till we came
to Tiberias, where we arrived towards evening be-
fore fun-fet. We went immediately, without alight-
ing from our horfes, to the hot baths in this town,
where I tarried long enough to defcribe the water,
itsfediment, and the places that were adjacent. We
took our night's lodging in an old church built over
the place, where Peter received the important keys,
which his fuccelTor alTerts are in his poffelTion ; we
eat, drank, and llept in this holy place, which now
has fcarcely a roof, and ferves the Arabians only
for a liable. We afterwards went out to the Ihore
of the fea Tiberias, and had fome fifh brought us
by the fiihernjea. I thought it remarkable, that

the

158 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

the fame kind of fiili fliould here be met witli as In
the Nile, Charmuth, Silurus, Bccnni, Mulfil, and
Sparus GalilcEus. The water in this river is fweet,
but not very cold, though wholefome.

Tiberias is a little town, half of it inha]:)ited
by Arabs, who are the maflers, and the other half
by Jews, who pay taxes to the former. The Chri-
ftians have no liberty here ; and if there are fome
few, they arc not known to be fuch. The town
has lately been fortified by the frequently-nient-
tioned Scheck Daker, who was born here, and
reigns alfo fupreme lord. He has ordered the town
to be furrounded with a wall, and built a callle on
a hill without the town. He had, however, no
more than fix fmall iron cannon in this work of de-
fence ; but he ufed another method, more antient
than cannons for defending forts. He ordered
loofe (tones to be laid on the top of the wall four
feet high, which, in cafe of a fiege, might be rolled
down and crufli the befiegers. Since he has fortified
the town, it has been once befieged by the Bafliaw
of Seide, the marks of which are yet to be feen in
the wall, but it was not taken.

The 4th early we left Tiberias, and faw on the
right Bethulis or Saphet, whither the Jews go out
of devotion to fpend their vacant time. We after-
wards followed the broad ridge of a hill which had
dales on each fide. On the right hand fide, about
a league from Tiberias, the place was fliewn where
Chrill gave food to 4000 men ; on which lay a heap
of ftones in memory of it. Farther on we faw the
mountain or hill where Chrill: preached his fennon :
it is high, ftony, and rugged. At the foot of the
mountain the Arabians had an encampment ; to
thefe I went to fee the manner of living of thefe
uncivihzed people. Their women are hideous ; half

their

TO A C R A. 159

their faces are bare ; they are drelTed Uke the men,
and have their under Hp painted blew. They made
butter in a leather bag, hung on three poles erefted
for the purpofe, in the form of a cone, and drawn
to and fro by two women. We were next fhewn
the place where thedifciples plucked the ears of corn;
here was alfo a heap of ftones. We now met with
limeflone and Olive-trees, which are not to be feen
farther in the country of Galilee.

Cana in Galilee is a httle village, inhabited by
Roman Catholic Greeks : the church over the place
where Chrifl changed water into wine has nothing
left but the walls, being without a roof. The vef-
try room is inhabited by peafants. In the church
of the village they {liew a ftone velTel, three feet
in diameter, and half a foot in height, which they
fay is one of the jars filled with water, that was
changed into wine, and a ikull, which they revere
for that of St. Athanafms.

The 5th, in the morning, we went out to fee the
hill, from which the inhabitants of Nazareth were
for throwing down Chriil when he preached to
them. This is a high ftony mountain, fituated fome
gun-ihots from Nazareth; confiding of the hme-
ftone common here, and full of fine plants. On
its top, towards the fouth, is a deep rock, which is
fa id to be the fpot for which the hill is famous : it
is terrible to behold, and proper enough to take
away the life of a perfon thrown from it. Jaffa is .
a village comprehend-ed in the number of thofe the
monks rent ; thither we went in the afternoon.
The monks make devout journies hither in reve-
rence to the place, where they fay ^ebedee lived :
they Ihew it in a garden full of pomegranates and
Fig-trees, which the monks have planted here ; and
it was the only one I faw in Galilee, being agree-
able

i6o TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

able enough on account of its pleafant fituatiori
and fine young trees. We were ftiewn feme ftones
in a place in this garden, which they fay diftin"
guiftied the fpot where the houfe of Zebedee
flood. But what I found moil remarkable at this
■village, was the great quantity of Mandrakes,
which grew in a vale below it. I had not the plea-
fure to fee this plant in bloifom ; the fruit now
hanging ripe to the ftem, which lay withered on the
ground j but I got feveral roots, which I found it
difficult to procure entire, as the inhabitants had no
fpades, but a kind of hoe or ground axj with this
they cut up the earth, and hurt the root, which in
fome plants defcended fix and eight feet under
ground. From the feafon in which this Mandrake
blolToras and ripens fruit, one might form a conjec-
ture that it was Rachel's Dudaim. Thefe were
brought her in the wheat harveft, which in Galilee
is in the month of May about this time ; and
the Mandrake was now in fruit. This plant grows
in all parts of Galilee ; but I never faw or heard
any thing of it in Judea. The Arabs in this
village call it by a name, which fignifies in their
language the Devil's Viftuals. I likewife found in
the Olive-trees here a Cameleon, which 1 carried
alive with me to Acra, aud learned, as I carried him
in the eafieft manner, to make him change from
black to a fpeckled or yellow colour : the method
confided in covering or rolling him up in a cloth,
and as foon as he then was taken out, he was
quite changed.

I left Acra early in the morning of the 14th,
having relied there for feveral days after my return
from Galilee. I took the road to Seide, accompa-
nied only by one horfeman. There is no occafion
for more company in Syria, where the roads are as

fafe

T d Galilee. i6t

fife as in any Chriftian country, efpeclally for a
Frank. We followed the fea iliore, and for the
iirft two leagues had good roads, and a fine coun*
try, producing the common plants, andSalix (Safsaf)
which I had not feen before, with an incredible
quantity of Wormwood. We relied at a rivulet un-
der a fig-tree, the leaves of which were covered with
the little \vhite Maxh; called Phalsena gregaria.
Here began the terrible mountains, over which we
travelled for feveral hours, fbmetiines on foot, at
other times on hcrfeback. Thefe flioot forth three
greijLt points into the fea, one of which is by the
feamen called Cape Blanc from the white lime-^ftone,
of which all thefe mountains confift. On this is an
old caille, fallen to ruin fmce the Maltefe left this
country : there are feveral of them to be feen on
this coad. On the other fide of this mountain, the
road was exceedingly bad, but pleafant on account
bf the many plants which grew hei'e. Having paiTed
the firft hills, we got a fine road along the fea
iliore. I was now very near the fea, and could not
refrain from going on the (hore to look for natural
curiofities ; but the terrible heat which flruck m.e,
occafioned by the redoubled force of the fun-beams
near the fea, made my flay very fliort. This was
the mod dangerous place I had been in for a lono-
time; If I had not foon drawn near the mountain
into the fliade, I fnould have paid dear for my cu-
riofity ; for my head began to fwim, and my legs
failed me, when I relied myfelf comfortably under a
Bay tree (Laurus) which I obferved to grow here,
and not in Galilee and Judea. In one place
of this level road we came to a fpring of water,
where we paid caffar ; and in another I faw fome
few ruins of Scanderette, one of Alexander's magni-
ficenr cities : it was entirely deilroyed, and even'the

M place

i6z TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

place uninhabited. A Rnbus (bramble) grew in the
ruins, which I had not feen before. The hills com-
juenced again, through which Alexander the Great
made a road for his army to pafs. We followed
this road above half an hour ; it was of different
breadths, from half a fathom to three fathoms in
fome places. This was a labour which required an
Alexander to accomplifh. It is certainly one of the
moll advantageous places in the world to obfl:ru£l
the paiTage of an army ; for on one fide are inac-
ceiTible rocks, and on the other the great ocean,
whofe fhores are fortified with perpendicular hills,
by which there is no efcaping. At four o'clock in
the afternoon we came to the moil remarkable place
on this road, viz. the famous wells, which are by
travellers called Solomon's, from which Tyre for-
merly received water through an aqua2du6i-. They
are three, all cut out in a mountain of fand-flone, at
the diflance of a gun-fliot from the fea. Tv.'o of
them are fquare, one fituated below the other,
each of about fix feet fquare. The third is the
moft remarkable : this is round, and is at lead loo
feet in diameter : it hath two outlets, each con-
fifling of a narrow channel, to which the water
runs through two round apertures, and falls into a
fmall bafonj from this place the water at prefent
ferves to turn fome mills; but it formerly ran into
the aquaeduft, cut out in the fand-ftone hill, which
carried the water for the fpace of two leagues to Tyre ;
the remains of this being ftill to be feen. The infide
of the ruins of this ac]uacduGl: is covered with a flalaft-
, ite, fuch as is to be found in the eaftern aqua:?dufts,
having been there depofited by the water : this is a
noble piece of antiquity, the work of a great king,
. and the remains of a potent people. They knew not

whence

TO A C R A. 162

whence the water came, which conflantly fills thefe
refervoirs; but I naturally conclude, that it comes
from fubterranean fprings, and rifes in their hot*
toms. The refervoirs are furrounded with various
plants, large trees of Salix Safsaf, a quantity of
Ricinus andVitex Agnus Caftus. A number of the
common little Pifmires were at work in the wallj
and if Solomon hath ever travelled this way, he
might have had an opportunity of making his obfer*
vations on thefe animals. We followed the fea
Ihore, which here had formed a little plain, and
after travelling two hours, came to Tyre, now
called Zur, where we lay all night. None of thefe
cities, which formerly were famous, are fo totally
ruined as this, except Troy. Zur now fcarcely can
be called a miferable village, though it was formerly
Tyre, the queen of the fea. Here are about ten
inhabitants, Turks and Chriftians, who live by fifli-
ing. Time has in feveral places left pieces of
broken walls, in teflimony of the magnificent flruc-
tures with which this city was once adorned. Of
thefe I faw fome fine pieces of marble, porphyry
and granite. Zur might yet be in a much better
condition than it is. Its harbour, which is doubt-
lefs tQ be prefered both to thofe of Acre and
Saide, might contribute towards it. The French
merchant lliips frequently find flielter here in the
winter feafon, when they cannot have it elfewhere*
The reigning Scheck Daker in Acra has deter-
mined to erecl a magazine here for the reception of
cotton, and houfes for merchants, which might coij-
tribute towards bettering the condition of this now
Wretched place : he would at leaft do fome fervice
to travellers, who are now indeed very badly ac-
commodated here. All travellers complain of Fleas
in Zur, which, they fay, alTemble here from all quar-

M 2 ters

1^4 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

ters of the world. I fliall not contradi^i: their afief-
tions. This, and other inconveniencies, made the
lodging fo difagreeable, that I rather chofe to
mount my horfe, and travel all night on a fine and
level road, croffed by feveral brooks and rivers, till
I came to Seide in the morning. Nerium Oleander,
which I had not hitherto feen, began now to appear
on the road between Zur and Seide.

"We came to Seide (Sidon) on the 14th. The
gardens in this town are the mod remarkable things
in it, and in thefe confifl its riches; wherefore my
firfl; bufmefs was to fee them. They extend an en-
tire French mile round the town, and contain Pome-
granate-trees, Apricots, Figs, Almonds, Oranges, Le-
mons and Plums, in fuch quantities, that the town can
yearly furnilli other places with confiderable car-
p-oes of thefe fruits; but the mod numerous, and in
which their riches chiefly confift, are Mulberry-
trees, on which they feed an infinite number of
filk worms. Cordia Sebeflen is a rare tree in
Egypt, grows wild in Palcefline, is not feen in Na-
tolia, but is fo common in the gardens of Seide, that
the bird-lime, which is made of its fruit, is one of
the principal articles of trade in this town. Rhus Su-
mach, and a three-leaved Bramble (Rubus) grew fpon-
taneouily here. No vine grows near Seide; but it is
produced in confiderable quantities on the mountains
of Antiliban and Cafchevan. Some authors reckon
the Tamarind amongfl the trees of Seide, but I
know not what tree they miftook for it, as it grows
not near this place, and not wild even in Egypt.

The r6th, we faw the Sepulchres of the ancient
Kings of Syria, which are at a fmall diflance from
rhe town. They are cut out in a Jimeftone mono-
tain, and have their apertures level with the earth,
which in moft i'S fo large, that one may enter them
I with

TO S I D O N. 1.6$

With eafe. They confift of vauks fome fathoms
jiquare, worked in the mountain, with oblong niches
in the walls. In feveral places may be feen obfcure
remains of caryed work in baflb relievo, over the
niches, and of red painting, fuch as is feen in the
Sepulchres at Alexandria. Thefe vaults are of a
workmanfliip much inferior to thofe of the Ifrael-
ites at Jerufalem, and in nothing refemble thofe of
Alexandria, though they feem made after their
model. A great part of them are now open, and
ferve as huts for fliepherds, or dens for wild beafts;
but it would certainly be worth while for ar^ Anti-
quarian to fearch along this hill, to difcover fome
not yet opened, of which there is beyond doubt a
great number. The town is not large, but has
iome fine houfes towards the fea fide, of which that
of the French is the largeft and handfomefl. The
harbour was ruined by the famous rebel Emir Fack^
ardin; for which reafon European velfels mull an-
chor in the road, and refort to the harbour of Zur
in the winter feafon. Near the harbour ftands a
ruinous caftle, with a few cannon and a fmall garri-
fon. The town is governed by a Balhaw of three
tails, whofe command extends over the country to
Acra, over Galilee, and the adjoining mountains of
Antiliban. The principal part of the inhabitants
are Turks, together with a great number of Maro^ -
nites, many Papifts, and fome Greeks. The Ar*
menians have neither church nor houfe : here there
is a Francifcan and Capuchin Convent in the French
Kan, and an liofpital for the Jefuits, who have
rheir Convent on mount Libanon. The French is
the only nation that trades hither ; they have nine
merchant houfes with a Conful, who has under him
the Vice-Conful of Acra. Their commerce is con-
ficjerable, in regard to the place, and keeps Sidcn
M 2 from

X66 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

from falling into the fame (late as her fifter Tyre.
They load yearly twenty and more velTels for France.
The goods exported from this place confill: chiefly
in fpun cotton, with fome filk, and amount annually
to at ieaft a million of livres. Next to them mull
be reckoned the filks, particularly the fine watered
half-filks which come from Damafcus, and are
brought hither in confiderable quantities for the
French, who carry them to Italy ; for they are pro-
hibited in France, though the French make none
equal to them in goodnefs. Allies, Oil and Galls,
make likewife a fiTiail part of this town's produce.
They import Cloths, Spices, Spanifli Iron, and Drugs
for dying, the greatell: part of which is fent to Da-
mafcus, which town fuppcrts Seide and Baruth, to
be confidered only as its harbours. They receive
alfo a large quantity of Piafters yearly from Mar-
feilles, which moftly go to Damafcus; where, as
well as on the v/hole Syrian coafl, this coin has the
greatell circulation, but moll of all, the Quarter
piailers, called Patines, which are valued at nfteen
Med. On the road from Acra to Seide, we faw a
herdfman, who retted with his herd of goats, which
was one of the largefl I faw in this country. He
was eating his dinner, confiding of liaif ripe ears of
wiieat, which he roafled and eat with as good an ap-
petite, as a Turk does his Pillaus; he treated his
guefts with the fame difh, and afterwards gave us
milk, warm from the goats, to drink, lloailcd ears
of w:hcat are a very ancient dilh in tlie Eail, of
which mention is made in the book of Ruth. In-
Egypt fuch food is much eaten by the poor, being
the cars of M'dht or Turkifii wheat, and of their
Dura, a kind of Milium. When this food was hril in-
vented in tlie earlil; ages of the world, art was in a
fimple Hate ; yet the-cudom is IHll continued in fome
nations, where the inhabitants have not, even at this

time,

T O S I D O N. 167

time, learned to pamper nature. After all, how
great is the difference between good bread, and
half ripe ears of wheat roafted !

Without the town, towards the fea fide, is iliewn
a Sepulchre, in which three Bafiiaws are buried; and
not far from thence a demoUflied Kan, where the
Venetians lived at the time they traded tojhis town,
and in a war were ail cut to pieces by the Turks.
Not far from the town is a well, which receives its
water from a fubterranean fpring, like that of Solo-
mon, and is called Sidon's well ; as the old town of
that name extended to it, though it is now a league
from the fea. The village of Elias- is one of the
nearefl to this town, where this prophet is faid to
have dwelt and performed miracles, efpecially that
with the widow pf Zareptah ^.

Superstition, common amongd unpolifiied peo-
ple, has its principal feat in the Eaft. I have par-
ticularly found it amongft thofe who breed filk
worms, efpecially women, who have, almoft through
the whole world, a taint of the rehgion of the an-
cient Egyptians, as far as relates to omens and fu-
perilition. They believe in almofl: all parts of the
Eail, that if a ftranger fees their filk worms, all
hope of fuccefs is loft. This was the reafon I could
never fee any Silk-worms before to day, the 1 8th of
May, neither during my flay in Smyrna, nor in all my
travels in Natolia and the Archipehigo, where filk
is produced. There is a hut made of boughs of trees
in every garden round Seide, in which they are at
this time fed, grow, fpin, and are transformed. My
iervant, who was a daring Armenian, procured me
an opportunity of entering one of thefe huts, where
I contemplated this noble worm, fo common and
yet fo much elleemed in the Eaft, but never to be
enough admired.

a I Kings xvii,

M 4 The

168 TRAVJlLS to the EAST.

The 2ill, I viewed the aqusedu^s of the town,
an ancient work, and the nobleft that has been pre-
ferved. The water has been by them conveyed
ti^elve miles from the hills into the town, and is by
;pipes carried to every part of it, which is not un-
common in thpfe places pf the Eaft, where there are
no refervoirs. Near the town there is fpmething
furious in this aquceduft. It jruns on walls through
great part of the town gardens, and has on each
iide a grove, pf all the different fprts of trees to be
i^ound here. In fome places the phannel is open,
but for the mpft part covered ; in a few places are
ppenings pn both fides, throiigh which the water
runs to the gardens, making pretty cafcades, which
baye an agreeable eifefl amongft the green trees.

T Q

T G GYP R U S.

TO CYPRUS.

I LEFT Seide on the 23d of May, 1751, and at
the fame time the Syrian coaft, of which I could
not fee any more for many reafons. I went on
board a fmall French velTel, in which I failed to
Cyprus. On the 2 8th, we anchored in the road oi
Larnaco, a village, where the European Confuls
dwell; part of which lies on the iliore, but the
greateft part a quarter of a league from it. In the
former lives the Conful from Naples ; in the latter
the Confuls from France, England, Venice and Ra-
gufa, have their houfes. I lived at the houfe of the
Venetian Conful, who was alfo Conful for Sweden,
(during the time I waited for an opportunity of con-
tinuing my return. As this was the reafon of my
coming to Cyprus, I had no notion of travelling-
through the ifland, for which this feafon of the
year is not the beft, as one can hardly crofs the
ilreet in the day time, on account of the heat, and
therefore mull travel by night. The feafon to bo-
tanize was likewife over; and befides, the country
affords little extraordinary in botany; wherefore I
found it not worth my while to make long excurr
fions in the country. For this reafon I made only
fwo iliortjournies in Cyprus. St. Crux, thehighell

moyntai^

I70 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

mountain on the ifland, was the firll thing I went
to fee.

I UNDERTOOK this joumcy on the evening of the
9th, having only my fervant and a guide with me,
not being incumbered with armed companions, who
are not wanted in a country in which a robbery has
never been heard of. We rid on mules, the com-
mon equipage of this country, where, they fay, they
have the befl beafls of this kind to be found in the
Levant : wherefore they are bought up for Syria,"
which in return fends fmall Horfes, for the few who
have a privilege of riding them. The road to the
mountain is broad and level ; hills of a moderate
height, and large vales, fill the country round it.
The mountain confifls of a ruily liraeflone, fatu-
turated with vitriol. In the vales I found alfo fome
grey limeftone, pure and unmixed, in large quanti-
ties, in the dried-up beds of rivulets. In many
places the craggy mountain afforded lead and cop-
per ore, and a quantity of fmall mountain cryftals.
Of thefe flones a fine fort is found towards Paphos,
which is large and clear, of which I faw a fine clufter
at the French Conful's. They were fliewn fome
years ago by a perfon at the court of the Turkiili
Emperor, who faid they were Diamonds. This dif-
covery was much approved of by thofe who knew no
better than himfelf ; and the Grand Turk was per-
fuaded he had within his dominions, a Diamond-
mine. He therefore fent workmen to Cyprus, to
fetch thefe treafures. They began to work, and the
place was flri«5l:ly guarded, but they left off in a
{hort time. Myrtle, Pine, Oriental Ciftus Ladani-
fera, and Arbutus Andrachne, grew altogether
in the woods, with the Oleander, which was now
in bloffom. On this journey we faw feveral vil-
lages, better built than they commonly are in the
Levant. We went into one of them, not far from

the

TO CYPRUS. 171

tlie mountain, after midnight, where a lliepherd
gave me np his reJling place, under an ohve-tree, as
it was too late to get a lodging in any of the houfes.
The night was extremely clear, which afforded me an
opportunity of viev/ing an eclipfeof the Moon,which
proved almofl: total ; and before fun-rife I continued
my journey. In a level inc-lofure beneath the moun-
tain, flood a little Greek church on the right hand.
After we had paffed it, w^e began to afcend the
mountain, and in half an hour came to the top of
it. The road v/as good, even and broad, therefore
we could ride all the way. On the highefc top of
the mountain is a little Greek hermitage, with three
or four rooms, and a fmall church. I there met
with a Monk, who quitted his hut to accommodate
me. I fcarcely believed myfelf in Cyprus, every
thing was (o different on this mountain. Inflead of
a burning heat, almofl enough to make one faint, I
was refrefiied with a moft agreeable cool air. The
thick, iickly, and I may almofl fay, poifonous air of
Cyprus, but efpecially of Eamacas, is not felt here ;
and I could, by the eafmefs of my breathing, find
that I was come into a thin and found air. When
I add to this, -a profpecl of the fea on one fide, and
on the other the whole ifiand, as far as I could fee,
one may eafy imagine, that this is the moil plea-
fant place in Cyprus. After my return, 1 blamed
the Franks, and was furprifed, that they who in-
habit the mofl difagreeable and unwlioleforae place
in the iiland, fhould not furniih therafeives with
fummer houfes on this mountain, to which thev
might go for the change of air.- They all fliid, that
as they had never thought of fummer houfes, they
could not look out for a place ; but that this would
be the properell. One obflacle to m.aking this
mountain an agreeable dwelling, is, the want of a

level

172 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

Je>vel place on the top of it, which confifls of no»
j:hing but rocks and ftones, amongfl: which the
Monks have fcarce found a httle level fpot for their
dwelling; but towards the foot of the mountain,
numbers of fuitable places might be found. Som<?
jRione moiTes (Lichenes imbricati) were the only na-
tural curiofities I found on the top of the hill,
which I have not feen in greater varieties and quan*
titles at any place in the Levant.

It is worth while for a perfon who Is in Cyprus,
to fee Famagufta, as it has formerly been the
ilrongell place in the country, and the moil famous
jn hiflory. I travelled thither on the 13 th, in com^
pany wijth an Englilli merchant from Aleppo, and
the Englilli Conful's interpreter, We kept along
the fea fliore, ar^d travelled alraoft all night, coming
to the town before day-break. The gates are not
opened before fun-rife, we therefore relied at the
houfe of a Greek Deacon without the town. The
Turks have the fame cuftom here as in Jerufalem
and Damafcus, not to fuffer any Chriflian, whether
he be Frank or bori; iii the country, to ride thro*
the gate of the town, To obf^rve this fooliih order,
we alighted at the Draw-bridge, as is cuHomary,
and walked through the gate, mounting again within
it. As foon as we were entered, we rid through all
parts of the town, and rouncj the ramparts. Mr.
Frudvord, an Englilli merchant, had built a houfe
jn Larnaco, the finefl and largefl: at this time in Cy-
prus, wdiich has the handfomefl: and moll fpacious
hall I faw in the Levant. We faw many houfes on
the road, between Larnaco and Famagufta, which
he had built for his pleafure ; but the greateft pave
pf them were in ruins. In Famagufta, we went firft
to pay a vifit to the Governor, and get his permif-
|ipn to fee the fortrefs, The Governor made the

fapG

to C Y P R tJ S. r;^

fame appearance as ..the town and fortrefs do, a very
mean-looking perfon, without any token of his be-
ing a commanding officer, which the Turks never
fail jQiewing, at lead by a number of fervants which
they keep about them, if they have any money ;
but this, the poll of a Governor of FamaguHa wilJ
not admit of. A Turkifli officer mufl always pay
himfelf, i. e. he mull: take, right or wrong, as much,
and often more than he wants, from thofe under his
command; but this Governor had only 2 or goo
good for nothing foldlers under him, and from them
little was to be got. The fort has not been repaired
fmce the Turks took it from the Venetians, and is
therefore ruinous. Here were about 200 pieces cf
cannon, which were taken with the fort, but fcarcely
one of them is fit for ufe. The garrifon confifted of
about goo men, of thofe called Levanti : thefe are
foldiers who ferve in the fieet, and are the worll
men in the Porte's fervice. The harbour for the
galiies, which is well fituated, and defended by the
fort, was entirely ruined. I have never feen fuch
quantities of Aloe vera, as I faw on the ramparts of
this fort. We went from the fort to fee the church
of St, Sophia, which is ufed by the Turks for a
Mofque. It is of Gothic archite<51:ure, large, and
was once handfome. It received, fome years ago,
confiderable damages by an earthquake ; and the
Turks, who are the raofi: ignorant architects' in the
world, have in a miferable manner repaired it. The
tombs, monuments, and chapels, ere61:ed by the
Chriflians, were entirely demolilhed : I could only
fee fome epitaphs on the pavement in the churchy
fome in Latin, with old Gothic letters, others in
modern Greek ; and even of thefe I could only fee
thofe neareft the threfliold, which a Chrilliany ac-
cording to the fuperflitious cuftom of the Turks,

muii

174 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

miifl: not pafs. Oppofite the church were the ruins
of the palace, formerly inhabited by the Venetian
Governors. Here were feveral columns of Granite
and Porphyry, and in feveral places of the wall
the Venetian lion ; in fome places carved in re-
lief, in others entire. The town of Famagufta is
now in a worfe condition than the fort. All the
houfes, built by the Venetians, are either entirely
demoiiflied or uninhabitable. There are now no
more than goo inhabitants in the town, moll: of
them Turks, who polTefs the miferable remains
which are left of the once fine and famous Fama-
gulla.

I HAVE always, fmce my departure from Sweden,
with much attention examined the fea birds. I had
feen many of them during my voyage to Smyrna,
but from that time they had beeninvifibfe tome. The
firfl I faw afterwards, was on the 28th towards even-
ing: this was a little bird, of the lize of a Sparrow, of
a greyiili colour, with a brown breaft, and white un-
der his wings; he fometimes fettled on the fea, and
then flew up again, but not at any diftance from the
furface of the water: it followed the veflel till dark.
This bird had gone out to fea when it was fine and
calm, in fearch of food, by catching fome fmall in-
fecls which fly above the furface of the fea. The
difl:ance would not permit me fully to defcrlbe him,
but the infers vv'ere a kind of fmall Water-flies.

The 30th, we failed by Carams and Chateau
Rouge in Caramannia. At both places are har-
bours, whence they load wood for Egypt, which is
cut in abundance in the woods of Caramannia. I was
told, that in the former place a town was to be feen
under water, and the ruins of another on the land.
In the latter are the remains of a callle, which is one

of

TO RHODES. 175

,t^f the many founded by the Maltefe Knights from
Gaza, quite to this country.

The 2d of July, at fun-fet, we came in fight of
Rhodes, after a voyage of fifteen days : we were
yet twelve miles from it, at which diilance the
mountain St. Catherine appears iirft.

Aft E R a conftant calm which had occafioned a long
and difagreeable voyage, we got on the 5th in the
afternoon the wiilied-for gale, which in the night
carried us pafl this ifland : during the gale, we faw
a number of Flying-fiflies, about two fathoms
above water; and we had before feen a number of
dolphins fwimming on the furface of the fea : thefe
always are a fign of a change of weather. We
viewed the town of Rhodes in the evening at fome
diftance, with its fortifications, kept in good repair
fmce the Turks took them from the Knights of St.
John of Jerufalem. Rhodes has a good harbour,
and always contains fome Turkilli men of war.
Here are alfo velTels built for the Porte, for which
purpofe this illand is very proper, having plenty of
timber. There are no Franks, only a French Con-
ful, who is appointed by the French AmbalTador at
the Porte, in the fame manner as other fmall Con-
fuliliips. The iiland, which is fruitful, is governed
by a Bailiaw; but the greatefl part of its inhabitants
are Turks, and fome Greeks, who carry on the trade
of the ifland, which is not very important, and con-
fifts in fome cotton, tar, and fmall fliip rigging.
Himia is a little, and almoft unknown ifland, di-
rectly oppofite Pihodes : we faw it in the morning on
our right hand; it is worth notice, on account of the
fmgular method the Greeks, inhabitants of the
ifland, have to get their living. In the bottom of
the fea the common Spunge (Spongia officinalis)
is found in abundance, and more than in any other

place

as TRAVELS to THE EAST.

place in the Mediterranean. The inhabitants makt'
it a trade to fifh up this fpunge, by which they get
a living, far from contemptible, as their goods are
always wanted hy the Turks, who ufe an incredible
iiumber of fpunges at their bathings and wailiings*
A girl, in this ifland, is not permitted by her reli^
tions to marry, before {lie has brought up a certain
quantity of fpunges, and before flie can give a proof
of her agility, by taking them up from a certain
depthi

We had beeri at fea twenty days, when on the
Sth we came in fight of Stanchio. Our voyage be-
gan to grow tedious. They never take much pro-
viiTon oil board for a voyage through the Archipe-
lago ; but imagine they can always run into fome of
the iftands,' and get what they want. We had thefe
thoughts at our departure from Cyprus, with pro-
Tifions for fome days; and intended to provide our-
felves in Rhodes, or Stanchio, for the remaining part
of the voyage ; but we were much diifatisfied to find
ourfelves without water, and with very little other
provifion, being at the fame time informed, by a vef-
fel which met us, that the plague raged violently iii
both the places We intended to run into, and there-
fore were inaccefTible. Out circtimflances gave me
an opportunity of ma:king a good 6bfervation. Wc
had on board a Dervice (Turkilli Monk) who came
to us, and complained bitterly,- n6t for want of
Bread, though he had been without it for feveral
days, but for fomething more iiecelTary to him than
Bread. He had been two days without Opium, and
now found himfelf in a condition which made hinl
fear he lliould find his grave in the fea. I with
pity faw a young man become lean, emaciated, with
a trembling body, feized with w^eaknefs and fwim-
inings. This is the cafe of thofe, who by a deftruc*

tive

TO RHODES. 177

tive cudom, have made it necelTary to eat Opium,
which however is not fo common amongft the Turks
now, as it was formerly. The ufe of Opium is now
moftly confined to thofe who officiate in religious ce-
remonies, or who would be ftrift followers of Ma-
homet, being prohibited the ufe of flrong liquors.
The Janiffaries have found means to explain the
law, and admit the ufe of Brandy, which, they fay,
was not forbid by their Prophet; as it is prepared
by fire, and every thing that paffes through fire is
pure and clean. Wherefore almofl all the Turkifli
foldiers have, in virtue of this excellent explanation
of the law, given over eating Opium, which made
them flupid and trembling, taking to Brandy, which
makes them mad and dropfical. Our Captain was
perfuaded to put the Dervice on fliore, on the coaft
of Natolia, or LelTer Afia, where he might find Opium,
fo necefiary to his fupport, which was not to be had
on board. He tried, in the mean time, as a pallia-
tive, to take an uncommon large dofe of Venice
Treacle, but without effeft. A body, ufed to flrong
medicines, is not moved by thofe of lefs power. A
perfon, accuflomed to take Scammony, is not at all
moved by Manna; we fometimes fee what terrible ef-
fe<Sts Opium hath on thofe who have been accuflomed
to take it, when they refrain from it. My fellow tra-
veller, Mr. Titzyon, who had been long an Englifli
faftor at Aleppo, related the following ilory : a Prince
of Perfia was accuflomed to take Opium at certain
hours ; his fervants, on a journey the Prince made,
had forgot to take with them Opium ; his hour came,
and he defired Opium, which was not to be had. The
Prince, who knew what the confequence might be,
if he did not take Opium at the accuflomed hour, dif-
patched feveral fervants by different roads, to fetch
in hafle what their negleft had left at home ; but,

N to

173 TRAVELS TO THE EAST.

to his and their misfortune, the Prince was dead
when one of the fervants returned, though within
rvvo hours. AnEngliQi merchant, who had long lived
in Ifpahan without company, took Opium to pafs
away his melancholy hours. This pernicious re-
frefhment became at laft fo neceffary, that, to
avoid any misfortune which might happen, if he
were once to be without it, he ordered fmall bags
of Opium to be fewed in his apparel and bed-clothes,
that he might always have a fufficient quantity
about him.

We anchored before Stanchio the 12th of July,
having been informed that the plague was not there,
but on the oppofite coafl:, and in the country of
Natolia. However, to be more careful, we did
not venture on iliore, but only fent our boat for
water, which was the moll necelTary article that
we wanted. Stanchio has no harbour, but the
velTels muft anchor in the guiph, at the diftance
of a cannon -fliot from the lliore between the
ifland and the continent, to which the entrance
on both fides is pretty narrow ; but its road is wide
and open, for which reafon veifels feldom anchor
before Stanchio in the winter, but rather go to the
oppofite fliore, where they find fmall harbours in
the continent, in which they lie more fecure. There
is a fpring on Stanchio, fix miles from the town,
which the inhabitants call the fountain of Hippo-
crates: 1 could not learn whether this name is to be
attributed to the ancient Grecians, in which cafe it
would be the only monument uov^ remaining, in the
place of the nativity of this great father of phyfic.
It is alfo poiTible, that fome Venetian phyfician,
when the Venetians poiTelTed this ifland, gave the
fountain this name, to revive the name of the great-
eft man the ifland ever produced. The Greek Bi-
fliop of this ifland hath 5000 pir.fters revenue a
4 year,

T O C H I O. 179

year, which the Turks left him, when they took
poflelfion of the ifland. This is one of the moH con-
fiderable fixed revenues that any Greek prelate, at
this time, has. The Bilhop in Smyrna may fometimes
receive 15,000 piafters a year, but at other times
not half that fum ; as it depends on alms, and efpe-
cially thofe that he receives on the day when he vifits
every houfe, and prefents them with the holy water.
He receives on this day from fix to 10,000 piafters,
according to the generofity and wealth of his flock.

N 2 D E-

DESCRIPTIONS

OF THE PRINCIPAL

NATURAL CURIOSITIES,

^OUND BY

FREDERICK HASSELQUIST,

ON HIS

TRAVELS TO THE EAST,

q^V A D R U P ED E S. 183

C L A S S I S I.

M A H H A L I A.

Q^UADRUPEDES.

1. Simia Cynaraolgos. The dog-headed Monkey.

2. Simia -^thiops. The Ethiopian Monkey.
^. Canes varii. Several forts of Dogs.

4. Viverra Ichneumon. The Ichneumon of the

Nile.

5. Vefpertilio Egyptiacus. The Egyptian Bat.

6. Mus Jaculus. The Jumping Moufe.

7. Hippopotamus Amphibius. The River Horfe.

8. Camelus Dromedarius. The Dromedary.

9. Equus Caballus. The Horfe.

10. Cervus Camelopardalis. The Camel Deer.

11. Capra Cervicapra. The Rock Goat.

1 2. Capra Angorenfis. The Mohair Goat.

13. Ovis Aries. The Sheep.

I. SimiaCynamolgosa. The dog-headed Monkey.

IT is of the fize of a young Bear, above two feet
in length, and almoft one foot and a half high,
and two feet broad ; it makes an horrid appear-

* Linn. Syftem. Nat. Pag. 28. No. 16.

N 4 ance,

184 Q.U ADRU PEDES.

ance, and is very ugly towards the back parts : In
outward appearance, it refembles a Bear. It is a
cruel, perfidious, atid -atmoft untameable animal."
It is found in Ethiopia. I have feen it brought to
Cairo by vagrants, and led about to be {hewn to
the people at the inundation of the Nile.

2. Simla iEthiops^. The ^Ethiopian Monkey.

It isf about as big as a common Cat, and is found
in ^Ethiopia, whence the Negroes bring in numbers
to Egypt. The female menllruates. It is very
docile.

3. Canis Vulpes ^. The Fox.

This animal- is common In Falceftine ; they arc
"very numerous in the ftony country about Beth-
lehem, and fometimes make great havock araongfl
the Goats. There is alfo plenty of them near the
Convent of St. John, in the defart, about vintage
time ; for they deflroy all the vines, unlefs they are
itriftly watched.

Canis aureus ^, The Jackcall. Chlcal of the Turks.

There are greater numbers of this fpecies of Fox
to be met with than the former, particularly near
Jaffa, about Gaza, and in Galilee. I leave others
10 determine, which of thefe is the Fox of Sampfon^
It was certainly one of thefe two animals.

Canis familiaris^ The Dog.

The magiftrates at Leghorn in Italy have au-
thority to iiliie out orders for killing Dogs, if they

^ Lin. Svft. Nat. P. 28. N. 14. <= P. 40. N, 4. '' P. 4.0. N. 7.

abound

qy A D R U P E D E S. 185

abound too much in the ftreets, and molefl the in-
habitants. The men entrufted with the execution
of thefe orders go through the city in the night,
and drop fmall bits of poifoned bread in the ftreets;
thefe are eaten by the Dogs, and inftantaneoufly
kill them: before fun-rife, the fame men go thro'
the ftreets with a cart, gather hundreds of the dead
Dogs, and carry them to the Jews burying-ground
without the town.

4. Viverra Ichneumon ^. The Ichneumon of the

Nile.

It is met with both in Upper and Lower Egypt,
living, during the inundation of the Nile, in gar-
dens and near the villages ; but in the dry feafon it
lives in the fields, and near the banks of the Nile,
It creeps flowly along, as if ready to feize its prey.
It feeds on plants, eggs and fowls ; killing the latter
in the night, when it frequents the villages. In
Upper Egypt it fearches for the eggs of the Croco-
dile, which lie hid in the fand on the fliore, and
eats them, preventing by that means the increafe
of that dangeroas animal. The Ichneumon may ea-
fily be tamed, and frequently goes about the houfes
like a Cat. Mr. Barton, who has been the Eng-
lilh Conful nineteen years in Egypt, has kept a
tame one for feveral years. It makes a growling
noife, and barks when it is very angry. The
Arabians call it Nems. The French in Egypt, who
give every thing they don't know names of their
own making, have called this Rat de Pharaon, which
the Latin writers of Egypt, viz. Alpinus and Bello-
nius, have followed, and called it Mus Pharaonis

f Lin. Syft. Nat, P. 43. N. i.ij

(the

lU q^V ADRUPEDES.

(the Moufe of Pharaoh.) The refemblance it has
to a Moufe (Mus terreflris) in regard to the colour
and hair, might have induced ignorant people, who
know nothing of natural hiftory, to call it a Moufe ;
but I cannot conceive why they fhould call it Pha-
raoh's Moufe. The Egyptians were too intelligent,
in the time of Pharaoh, to call it a Moufe, having
knowledge enough to give true defcriptions and fig-
nificant names to all natural bodies ; nor is it at
this day called Phar by the Arabs, which is the
name for Moufe, but they call it Neras, as I have
before obferved. What is related concerning its
entering the jaws of the Crocodile, is fabulous.

5. Vefpertilio .^gyptiacus. The Egyptian Bat,

It is of the fize of a fmall Moufe, and lives in the
gardens of Rofetta, near the banks of the Nile.

6. Mus Jaculuss. Jumping Moufe.

This animal is of the fize of a large Moufe : it
fupports itfelf only on its hind legs, and therefore
hops or jumps in its progrefTive motion. When it
refts, it clofes its feet to its belly, and fits on its
knees, bent ; it holds its viftuals with its fore-feet,
or paws, as do the reft of this tribe ; it is fond of
fleep, fleeping in the day and waking at nights; it
eats wheat, wheat bread, and the feeds of oily grain
(Sefamum.) Though it is not much afraid of a man,
yet it is not eafily tamed : for this reafon, it is always
kept in a cage ; and I have known one of thefe ani-
mals kept for fome months, and even a year, in this
manner at Cairo. It is met with in Egypt, or be.

E Liii. Syft.Nat. P. 63. N. 15.

tween

Q^U A D R U P E P E S. 187

tween Egypt and Arabia. The Arabians call it
Garbuka; the French, who live in Egypt, Rat de
Montagne.

N. B. If one fliould follow the method of the
ancients in defcribing this animal, we might fay ic
had a head like a Hare, whiJkers like a Squirrel, the
fnout of a Hog, a body, ears, and fore legs, like a
Moufe, hind legs like a bird, with the tail of a Lion.
What a monftrous animal would this feem to be !
And had it been delineated 2000 years ago, it would
at this day have been accounted a mionft er. To this
manner of defcribing, do moil monftrous animals
owe their origin ; as Griffins, Unicorns, &c.. &c. For
inilance, when the parts of a new-difcovered animal
are compared to thofe of other animals already well
known J painters, from this method of defcribing,
receive an idea of a form of nature, which they
always draw out of character. This matter cer-
tainly merits a farther enquiry.

7. Hippopotamus Amphibius ^. The River Horfe,

Some obfervations related to me by a credible

perfon, who lived twelve years in Egypt.

I. The hide of a full grown Hippopotamus is a
load for a camel.

a. The River Horfe is an inveterate enemy to the
Crocodile, and kills it whenever he meets ir.
This, with iome other reafons, contribute much
to the extirpation of the Crocodile; which, other^
wife, conlitiering the many eggs they lay, would
utterly deftroy Egypt.

3. The River Horle never appeal's below the Car
taracts in Egypt, wherefore the inhabitants oi
Upper Egypt only can give any account of ii;

J> Lin. Syfl. Nat. P. 7]. N. i.

and

m C^tf A i) R U ^ E D E S;

and as very few Europeans, none at leafl who?
underllood natural hiilory, have travelled inta
thofe parts of Egypt, we know little of the hif-
tory of this animal; fuch as have travelled in
India, have had better opportunities of informing
themfelves in this matter. The Elgyptians very
feldom bring the hide of it to Cairo j and it is
impoflible to bring thither the living animal. A
hide has been fent to France, which,- I am in-
foraied, is preferved in the Royal Menagerie.

4. The River Horfe does much damage to the Egyp-
tians, in thofe places he frequents. He goes on
fhore, and in a fliort fpace of time deftroys an
entire field of corn or clover, not leaving the leaft;
verdure as he paffes ; for he is voracious, and re-'
quires much to fill his great belly. They have a
curious manner of freeing themfelves, in fome
meafure, from this deflruftive animal : they re-
mark the places he frequents moft, and there lay

. a large quantity of peas; when the beaft comes
o;i Ihore, hungry and voracious, he falls to eating
what is nearefl him, and filling his belly with the
peas, they occafion an infupportable thirft ; he
then returns immediately into the river, and drinks
upon thefe dry peas large draughts of water,
which fuddenly caufes his death; for the peas
foon begin to fwell with the water, and not long
after the Egyptians find him dead on the fliore^
blown up, as if killed with the ftrongeft poifon^

5. The oftener the River Horfe goes on Ihore, thd
better hopes- have the Egyptians of a fufficient
fwelling or encreafe of the Nile.

6. The Egyptians fay, they can almofl diflinguiib
the food of this animal in his excrements.

8. Camelus

<^U A D R U P E D E S. i8^

8, Camelus Dromedarius K The Dromedary.

The Dromedary commonly weighs looolb. m
Egypt. They feed him, for want of better food,
with bruifed kernels, or flones of date? : theycopUf^
Jate in Egypt in the month of December.

9. Equus Gaballus ^. The Horfe,

Horses are found wild in the defarts of Grim
Tartary, and dijEFer from thofe that are tame, in
having much larger tails, according to Juili, who
travelled in thofe parts.

JO. Cervus Camelopardalis^. The Gamel Deer.
Bellon. 179. Camelopardahs Giraffa. Alpin.
-^gypt. Zurnap. Arab.

The c9lQur of the whole body, head and le^s of
this animal, is variegated with dark brown fpots;
the fpots are as large as the palm of a man's hand,
of an irregular figure, and in the living animal are
of various fhades. This Deer is of the bignefs of a
fmall Gamel ; the whole length, from the upper lip
jo the tail, is twenty-four fpans. It is met with in
the fhady and thick woods of Senn^r and Ethiopia.

N. B. This is a mod elegant and docile animal,
it has been feen by very few natural hiftprians, and
indeed fcarcely by any, except Bellonius ; but none
have given a perfeft defcription, or good figure of
it. I have only feen the ikin of the animal, and have
pot yet had an opportunity of beholding it alive.

f Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 65. N. i. •? P. 73.N. i. ' P. 66. N. i.
I J I. Gapra

ipd Q^tr ADRUPEDES.

II. Capra Cervicapra "^. The Rock Goat.

This is larger, fwifter, and wilder, than the com*
men Rock Goat, and can fcarcely be taken without
a Falcon. It is met v/ith near Aleppo. I have feen
a A'^ariety of this, which is common in the Eaft, and
the horns appear difFerent; perhaps it is a diftinft
fpecies. This animal loves the fmoke of tobacco,
and when caught alive, will approach the pipe of
the hunrfman, though otherwife more timid than
any animal. This is perhaps the only creature, be-
fide m^an, that delights in the fmell of a poifonous
and {linking plant. The Arabians hunt it with a
Falcon (Falco gentilis, Linn.) I had an excellent op-
portunity of feeing this fport near Nazareth, in Ga-
lilee. An Arab, mounting a fwift courfer, held the
Falcon on his hand, as huntfmen commonly do:
when he efpied the Rock Goat, on the top of a
"mountain, he let loofe the Falcon, which flew in a
direft line, like an arrow, and attacked the animal,
fixing the talons of one of his feet into the cheek of
the creature, and the talons of the other into its
throat, extending his wings obliquely over the ani-
mal ; fpreading one towards one of its ears, and the
other to the oppofite hip. The animal, thus at-
tacked, made a leap twice the height of a man, and
freed himfelf from the Falcon ; but, being wounded,
and lofmg its flrength and fpeed, it was again at-
tacked by the Falcon, which fixed the talons of both
its feet into the throat of the animal, and held it faft,
till the huntfman coming up, took it alive, and cut
its throat ; the Falcon drinking the blood, as a re-
ward for his labour, and a young Falcon, which was

"■ Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 69. N...7.

learning,

Q^U A D R U P E D E S. ipr

learning, was likewife put to the throat of the
Goat; by this means are young Falcons taught to
fix their talons in the throat of the animal, as being
the propereft part ; for fhould the Falcon fix them
in the creature's hip, or fome other part of the
body, the huntfman would not only lofe his game,
but his Falcon alfo : for the animal, roufed by the
wound, which could not prove mortal, would run to
the defarts, and the tops of the mountains, whither
its enemy keeping its hold, would be obliged to
follow; and, being feparated from its mafler, mud of
courfe periih.

12. Capra Angorenfis". The Mohair Goat.

The Mohair Goats are a fmgular variety of the
common Goats, being famous for their loft and
filver-white hairs, the like of which are not to be
found in any place but Angora. The Engliili and
Dutch have long, to their great advantage, made
the Mohair Goats one of the principal articles of
their Levant trade. The fine Engliih camlets are
made of the hair, which is commonly carried ready
fpun to Europe ; and, being there woven, is after-
wards exported to ail parts of the world, even
to thofe whence the yarn was originally brought.
The French at prefent have fome fliare of the pro-
fit refulting from this trade; but nobody could
ev€r hit on a furer and more judicious method of
making this valuable commodity ferviceable to his
country, than Mr. Alflroeraer, one of the Swedilh
Lords of Trade, who got the animal to Sweden,
with an intention to propagate it there, We re-
ceived this day four of them, fent by Mr, Bicerling,

" Lin. Syfl. Nat. P. 6S. "N. ij.

from

rpz q U A D R U P E D E S.

from Angora to Smyrna: he was fent thither by
Mr. Alllroemer, for this purpofe. This is the
handforaeft creature of the kind I ever met with,
and differs from the common Goat, in having longer
hair, a fliorter body, fliorter legs, broader and flatter
fides, and lefs and flraiter horns, I fliould almoft
conclude it to be a diftinft fpecies ; and the rather,
as it continues its breed without degenerating.

13. Ovis Aries °. The Sheep,

I HAVE obferved a cruft growing on the teeth of
the Sheep in Egypt, which hath entirely the ap-
pearance of a Pyrites. It appears chiefly at the
time when they feed on grafs, which is fcarcely any
thing but Lucern. I have heard that this is alfo
common to the Sheep of Antiliban,

• Lin, Syft. Nat, P. 70. N, 1.

CLASSIS

BIRDS. 193

C L A S S I S 11.

A V E S. BIRDS.

14. Vultur Percnopterus. The Egyptian Vultur.

15. Strix Otus. The Horn Owl.

1 6. Strix orientalis. The Oriental Owl.

1 7. Pfittacus Alexandri. The Parrot of Alexander,

1 8. Pfittacus obfcurus. A Parrot from Africa.

19. Upupa Pyrrhocoax. The Black Hoop.

20. Corvus asgyptius. The Egyptian Crow.
2 1. Pirus minor. The LelTer Woodpecker.

22. Alcedorudis. The Perfian Kings-filher.

23. Alcedo aegyptia. The Egyptian Kings-fifher.

24. Merops Apiafter. The Bee-catcher.

25. Ardea Ibis. The Ibis of the Egyptians.

26. Tringa segyptiaca. The Egyptian Plover.

27. Tringa autumnaiis. The Autumnal Plover.

28. Tringa fubtridaftyla. The Three-toed Plover.
2^. Charadrius Himantopus. The Autumnal Dot-

terell.

30. Charadrius alexandrinus. The Alexandrian

Dottereil.

31. Charadrius segyptius. The Egyptian Dottereil.

32. Charadrius Kervan. The Oriental Dottereil.

33. Charadrius fpinofus. The Armed Dottereil.

34. Fulica atra. The Coote.

O 35. Anas

194 BIRDS.

35. Anas damiatica. The Damiatick Duck.
56. Anas nilotica. The Duck of the Nile.

37. Mergus Aibellus. The White Nun.

38. Larus fmyrnenfis. The Smyrna Gull.

39. Larus canefcens. The Grey Gull.

40. Sterna nigricans-. The Black Sea Swallow,

41. Sterna nilotica. The Egyptian Sea Swallow,

42. Nuonida Meleagris. The Guinea Hen.

43. Tetrao orientalis. The Oriental Partridge.

44. Tetrao Coturnix. The Quail.

45. Columboe varise. Several forts of Pigeons.

46. Alauda hifpanica. The Spanifli Lark.

47. Sturnus vulgaris. The Starling.

48. Emberiza melitenfis. The Eailern Bunting.

49. Emberiza africana. The African Bunting.

50. Motacilla yvica. The Wagtail from Yvica.

51. Motacilla. The Red-breafted Wagtail.

52. Motacilla hifpanica. The Spanifli Wagtail.

14. Vultus Percnopterus ^. The Egyptian Vultur,

iHEY light in great flocks on the lay-flalls
^ near the city of Cairo, and there promifcu-
Gufly feed, together with the Dogs and other
bealls, on dead carcafes and other offal. They af-
lemble with the Kites every morning and evening,
in the fquare called Rohneli, below the caftle (which
is the place for executing capital offenders) there to
receive the alms of frefli meat, left them by the le-
gacies of wealthy great men.

The appearance of the bird is as horrid as can
well be imagined, viz. The face is naked and
wrinkled, the eyes are large and black, the beak
black and hooked, the talons large, and extended

a Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 87. N, 6.

ready

BIRDS. 195

ready for prey, and the whole body polluted with
filth : thefe are qualities enough to make the be-
holder lliudder with horror. Notwithilanding this,
the inhabitants of Egypt cannot be enough thank-
ful to Providence for this bird.- All the places
round Cairo are filled with the dead bodies of alTes ,
and camels ; and thoufands of thefe birds fly about,
and devour the carcafes, before they putrify and fill
the air with noxious exhalations. The inhabitants
of Egypt, and after them Maiilet, in his Defcrip-
tion of Egypt, fay, that they yearly follow the ca-
ravan to Mecca, and devour the filth of the
flaughtered beads, and the carcafes of the camels,
which die on the journey ; but I have not been an
eye-witnefs of this. They don't fly high, nor are
they afraid of men. If one is killed, all the reft
furround him, in the fame manner as do the Roy-
flon crows ; they do not quit the places they fre-
quent, though frightened by the explofion of a gun,
but immediately return thither. I am not of opi-
nion that this bird eats infers or worms, as it is
fcarcely ever feen in the fields and lakes ; nor do the
other fpecies of this genus admire that diet. Mail-
let imagines this bird to be the Ibis of the ancients;
but, I think, his opinion has not the lead appearance
of truth. We can fcarcely be induced to imagine,
that a wife nation fliould pay fuch honours to an
unclean, impure, and rapacious bird, which was not
perhaps fo common, before the Egyptians filled the
ftreets with carcafes. If the Ibis is to be found, it
muft certainly be looked for in the Ordo of Grallis
of Linnseus ; and I imagine it to be the White He-
ron, which is fo common in Egypt. The Arabians
call it Rochasme ; the French, living in Egypt, give
it the name of Ghaj)on de Pharaon, or de Maho-
meth : Maiilet fays, "it is (o called, becaufe it re-

. Q 2 fembles

1^6 BIRDS.

fembles a Capon ; but, except its being larger than
a Capon, what refemblance is there between them ?
This is not the only ridiculous denomination given

to things.

15. StrlxOtus^. Horn Owl.

I have feen this alive in Cairo, nor is it rare in

Egypt.

1 6. Strix orientalis facie pilofa futura crifpato— .
plumofa in dorfo roftri. The oriental Owl.

It is of the fize of the common Owl, living in the
ruins and old deferted houfes of Egypt and Syria,
and fometimes in inhabited houfes. The Arabs in
Egypt call it Mallafa; the Syrians Bana. It is
very ravenous in Syria; and in the evenings, if the
windows are left open, it flies into houfes, and kills
infants, unlefs they are carefully watched, where-
fore the women are much afraid of it.

17. Pfittacus Alexandri*^. The Parrot of Alex-

ander.

It Is of the fize of a Dove, lives in Ethiopia,
and is by the Ethiopians brought to Cairo for fale.
This is a very pretty bird; it has a flirill and pierc-
ino- voice, and can eafily be taught to make it in
fome meafure articulate. Its chief food confifts in
the feeds of Safflower (Carthamus tin^lorius).

18. Pfittacus obfcurus*^. A Parrot from Africa.

This is of the fize of a Cuckow.

b Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 92. N. 4. '' P. 97. N. 9.

19. Upupa

BIRDS. 197

19. Upupa Pyrrhocorax ^. The black Hoop.

This is of the fize of the Jackdaw, lives in the
fields and houfes of lower Egypt, during the
months of September and October, on the decreafe
of the Nile. It ,eats an infeft peculiar to Egypt, and
near a kin to the Cock-Roach (Blatta).

10. Corvus segyptius viridi maculatus, dorfo medio
caeruleo. The Egyptian Crow.

It is of the fize of a lark; it lives in the trees of
Egypt, feeds on infects. I have found the remains
of Scorpions and Scolopendras in its flomach.

21. Picus minor s. The LelTer Woodpecker.

This is of the fize of a Lark ; the female is a lit-
tle bigger than the male. The peafants of Natalia
bring it to Smyrna. I can fcarcely believe that this
bird migrates.

22. Alcedo rudis''. The Perfian Kings-fiidier.

It is found in Egypt, near the banks of the Nile,
and catches fiih by diving with its long beak under
the water, in the fame manner as do the Sea Gulls
(Larus).

23. Alcedo asgyptia. The Egyptian Kings-fiflier.

It is found in Lower Egypt, and builds its nefts
in the Date-trees and Sycamores about Cairo; feed-
ing on the frogs, infefts, and little fiili, which it

f Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 118. N. 4. « P. 114. N. 12. ^ P.
116. N. 6.

198 BIRD S.

gets in the overflown fields. Its voice refembles tliat
of the Raven.

24. Merops Apiafter K The Bee-catcher.

This bird is called Varuar by the Arabs, and
is found in the plains of Galilee.

25. Ardea Ibis^ The Ibis of the Egyptians.

It is of the fize of a Raven Hen. This bird is found
in lower Egypt, and is feen in great numbers during
the overflowing of the Nile, in thofe places, which
the water does not reach, and afterwards in the
places the water has deferted. It feeds on infefts
and fmall frogs, which abound in Egypt, during the
inundation of the Nile and forfome time after, be-
ing, by this means, of great fervice to the country.
They often aflemble, efpecially mornings and even-
ings, in the gardens, in fuch numbers, as to cover
whole Palm'trees. When this bird refts, it fits up-
right, fo as to cover its feet with its tail, and raifes
the breafl: and neck.

N. B, I am inclined to believe this bird to be the
Ibis of the ancient Egyptians, rather than any other;
becaufe it is: i. Very common in Egypt, and almofl
peculiar to that country. 2. It eats and deflroys Ser-
pents. 3. The urns found in the Sepulchres contain
a bird of this fize.

^ Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 117. N. i. ^ P. 144. N. 18.

26. Tringa

BIRDS. 199

2(5. Tringa 3?gyptiaca longiroftris, fufco albidoque
variegata. The Egyptian Plover.

This bird is of the fize of a Hen, and is found
in the moid places of Egypt, during the month of
September.

27. Tringa autumnalis longiroflris, dorfo abdomi-
neque purpurafcente. The Autumnal Plo-ver.

It is of the fize of a Hen, and is found in Egypt,
during the autumn.

28. Tringa fubtridaftyla. The Three-toed Plover.
It is of the fize of a Pigeon.

29. Charadrius Himantopus ^ The Autumnal

Dotterell.

This bird comes to Egypt, in the month of Oc-
tober, and is found in the lakes.

30. Charadrius alexandrinus °^. The Alexandrian

Dotterell.

It is of the fize of a Lark : I found it the 24th
of May, 1750, in the channel, which leads the water
of the Nile to Alexandria. It feeds on infedls,

31. Charadrius segyptius". The Egyptian Dot-

terell.

It is found in the plains of Egypt, feeding on
infects.

'Lin. Sylt. Nat. P. 1 5 I.N. 10. '"P. 150. N. 3. "P.iijo. N. 5.
O 4 32. Charadrius

coo BIRDS.

32. Charadrius Kervan°. The Oriental Dotterell.

This bird is of the fize of a Crow, and is met
with in lower Egypt, in the Acacia groves, near
the villages Abufir and Sackhara, near the Sepul-
chres of the antient Egyptians, and in the defarts.
The Arabians call it Kervan. It has a flirill voice,
fomewhat refembling that of the Black Wood-
pecker (Pirns martins), which it raifes and lowers
fuccellively, uttering agreeable notes. The Turks
and Egyptians value it much, if they can get it
alive, and keep it in a cage for the fake of its fmg-
ing. Its flefh is hard, and of a very good tafte, in-
clined to aromatic. It is a very voracious bird,
catching and devouring Rats and Mice (Glires),
which abound in Egypt. It feldom drinks, and,
when taken young, and kept in a cage in Egypt,
they give it no water for feveral months, but feed
it with frefh meat, macerated in water, which it de-
vours very voracioully. It is found in defarts, and
is therefore accuftomed to be without water. I
kept one of thefe birds alive in Egypt two months,
and then fent it to Smyrna.

33. Charadrius fpinofusP. The armed Dotterell.

It is of the fize of a Dove : the French call it
Dominicanus, from the refemblance it bears the
drefs of a Dominican Monk; as it has a black neck,
but the fides of it are white.

34. Fullca atra"". The Coot.

1

35. Anus

'^ Lin. Syft. Nat. P. ici. N. 9. pP.151. N.u. iP.i'jz
N. I.

BIRDS. 201

35. Anas damiatica grifea, roftro apice piano lato
rottindato. The Damiatick Duck,

It is of the fize of the common Duck. It is found
near the fea coafts of Egypt, and is very common
in the Mediterranean ; but particularly in the Bay
near Damiata, and between Alexandria and Ro-
fetta; near the harbour Bichie, where they are
caught with nets ahve.

3(5. Anas nilotica. The Duck of the Nile.

The neck and upper part of the head are white,
with grey fpots, and a grey line runs lengthways
behind the eyes ; the bread is greyifh, with black
ftripes running acrofs it ; the belly and thighs are
of the fame colour, but at the fides of the belly are
fome grey oblong flripes. It is met with wild in
Upper Egypt, and no where elfe, if not perhaps in
the Red Sea. The Arabians call it Bah. It is ea-
fily tamed, and is kept in Egypt with the common
Geefe.

3 7. Mergus Albellus "■. The White Nun.

I HAD this brought from the ifland Tinus : it
lives in the North during the fummer months.

38. Larus fmyrnenfis. The Smyrna Gull.

The upper parts of the beak, head, neck, back,
wings and tail, are black, but the lower parts are
white f the membrane of the toes, and the inward

^Lin. Syft. Nat P. 129. N. 4.

toes,

202 BIRDS.

toes, are white, but the outward toe is black; the
infide of the legs is white, and the outfide black.
This was caught in the harbour of Smyrna.

39. Larus canefcens ^ The Grey Gull.

I SAW this bird on the 26th of February, near the
Kile, and fuppofe it came from the Mediterranean.

40. Sterna nigricans. The Black Sea Swallow.

41. Sterna nilotica. The Egyptian Sea Swallow.

The beak of this bird is black; the head and
neck are greyifli above, with fmall black fpots ; the
part round the eyes is black, fpotted with white ;
the back, wings, and tail, are grey; the belly, and
under part of the neck, are white ; the feet red,
and toes black. It is of the fize of a Dove, and is
found in the Nile. The Arabs call it Abunures.
It bears a great refemblance to a Gull ; the lower
part of the beak is fomewhat thick, but being ilrait
alfo, proves it to belong to this genus. This bird
comes in great flocks to Trajan's canal (which runs
near Cairo) in the beginning of January, and feeks
its food in the mud left by the Nile. It hunts, ef-
pecialiy for infefts without wings (Aptera), fmall
fifli and filth; it is therefore of great fervice to
Egypt.

42. Numida Meleagrls ^ The Guinea Hen.

I HAD this bird from Nubia, whence the Nubian
merchants bring it for fale to Cairo, with Monkeys

8 Lin.Syft.Nat. P.136. N. 2. 'Linn. Muf. Regis, torn. 2. p. 27.

and

BIRDS. 203

and Parrots. When it raifes its voice, it makes a fm-
gular creaking found, eafier to be imagined than de-
icribed, foraewhat referabling the cackling of- a hen,
but more fonorous : there is a pecuharity in it which
almofl: penetrates the brain, and affefls the head in
a manner not to be defcribedj this, at leaft, has
happened to me. I never heard it make this loud
noife but in the morning ; but its conftant noife is
like a Turkey Hen. It chufes high places to fleep
in, as Hens do: it is brought up tame in Nubia,
and other places of Africa, as well as America,
where it is very familiar, and feeds with other
poultry. It is as pretty a bird as one would wifh to
fee, and is certainly the third bird in beauty, after
the Peacock and Humming bird : it does not, it is
true, dazzle the eye with gaudy colours; but its ele-
gant fhape, and the regular difpofition of the fpots,
make it appear perfectly handfome.

43. Tetrao orientalist. The Oriental Partridge.

It is of the iize of the common Partridge, and is
found in the groves and woods of Natolia. It is
taken in the winter.

44. Tetrao Coturnix ■'^. The Quail. Tetrao Ifrael-

itarum.. HaiTelquifl.

It is of the fize of a Turtle Dove : Inave met
with it in the wildernefs of Palasfline, near the
fliores of the Dead Sea and Jordan, betvv^een Jordan
and Jericho, and in the defarts of Arabia Petr^ea. If
the food of the Ifraelites in the defarts was a bird,

a Lia.Syft.Nat. P. i6i. N. 12. >" P. i6i. N, 13.

2 thijj.

204 BIRDS.

this is certainly it, being fo common in the places
through which they pafled.

I HAVE feen a fpecies of Partridge, very common
about the pyramids of Egypt, and in the defarts.
It is of a greyifh colour, and lefs than our common
Partridge. This ought certainly to obtain a place
amongft the birds mentioned in the Scriptures,
The Arabians call it Katta. An Selaw?

45. Columba domeflica^. The Pigeon.

I HAD three very fingular and fine varieties of
this fpecies at Cairo, 175 1.

I . Columba area oculorum lata nuda rugofa pallide
fanguinea.

A PIGEON, which hath the circle round the eyes
broad, naked, wrinkled, and of a flefh colour.
This comes from Arabia.

2. Columba crifpa.

This bird is of the fize of the common Pigeon ;
the pinions, or upper part of the wings, are covered
with fmall ereft curl'd feathers, fomewhat like the
petals of a flower. It is quite white; I have been
informed, that it is likewife found of a black co-
lour ; but I never faw one of them. It is brought
from India.

3. Columba arabica tremula. The Fan-tail Pi-
geon.

It is of the fize of a common Pigeon ; it carries
its neck very far back, and its head is in conftant

^ Lin. Syfi. Nat. P. 162. N. i.

tremulation j

B I R D So 205

tremulation ; the breaft is very convex, and proje£ls
far out, efpecially in the female. I had it brought
from Arabia Felix to Cairo. The head, belly,
wings, throat, and upper part of the neck, were
quite white, and a white fafcia in the middle of the
back J the Ihoulders, back, and under part of the
neck, were of a fhining changeable purple ; this is
the colour mod common to this variety, yet I have
feen others of a different colour, but of the fame
form and fize. It is the moil elegant and beautiful
variety of all hitherto known; its pofition, when it
walks, is very particular, for it elevates one half of
the body, viz. the bread:, and part of the belly ;
but the female does this in a greater degree than
the male. The common Pigeon is by the Arabians
called Haram; the Turtle Dove they call Jamara ;
the Ring Dove Jofie. The latter of thefe migrates
at Cairo; it lives in the holes of the adjacent
houfes, from the filling of the canal of Trajan until
it is dry ; but is not feen during the remaining part
of the year. The common Pigeon builds her nefls
in the following manner : the male gathers flraw,
&c. and carries it to the fitting female; but he gives
it to her in a very peculiar manner, leaning his neck
over hers, fo that flie receives the materials from
the oppofite fide, and lays them under her belly,
builc^ing a round neft. It was in this manner, the
firfl variety of the Pigeons, here defcribed, pro-
ceeded in building its neft. I had it for fome time
in Cairo.

46. Alauda hifpanlca. The Spaniili Lark.

I SAW this in the Mediterranean, coming from
the Spanifh Ihore, the i8th of November, 1749,

and

2o6 BIRDS.

and gave an account of it in that part of my
journal.

47. Sturnus vulgaris y. The Starling.

It comes to Egypt in the winter, from the Southern
parts of Europe, France and Italy.

48. Emberiza melitenfis. The Eaftern Bunting.

I SAW it in the Mediterranean, coming on board
from Malta, and then defcribed it.

49. Emberiza africana^. The African Bunting.

It came on board the firft of November, 1749,
from Africa ; I then defcribed it in my journal.

50. Motacilla (yvica) corpore fufco viridifcente,
pe^lore ferrugineo. The Wagtail from Yvica.

It was caught on board the fliip the i8th of
Oflobei', 1749, and came from the illand Yvica.

51. Motacilla corpore ex fufco viridifcente, pe<Sore

ferrugineo. The Red-breafted Wagtail.

I SAW it in the Mediterranean, near the Spanifli
(hove, whence it had come on board the 15 th of Oc-
tober, 1749, and have already defcribed it in my
journal.

r Lin. Syll. Nat. P. 167. N. i. * P. 17+. N. 20.

52. Motacilla

BIRDS. 207

52. Motacilla Hifpanica. The Spanlfh Wagtail,

It came on board the 15th of Oftober, 1749,
from the Spanifli Ihore. It feeds on £ies.

The Arrival of Migrating Birds in
Egypt, obferved in the year 1750.

1 N the months of September and October, at the
end of the former, and beginning of the latter, I
have obferved the wading birds called Gralise:

Ardea Grus ^ (Crane) from Greece and Turkey.

I KNOW not whence this bird came. The Egyp-
tians tell me, that it is an inhabitant of Egypt, and
that it is met with in the Southern parts of the king-
dom in fummer, but comes to Lower Egypt in au-
tumn. If this is true, it differs from the nature of
other birds, which go from the North to the South
at that time ; but this, on account of food, comes
to the North. The bird of this kind, which I de-
fcribed at Smyrna, was brought from Greece, ac-
cording to the accounts of the Turks : but how can
this agree with the relation of the Egyptians ^

Tringa autumnalis. The autumnal Plover.

Tringa asgyptia. The Egyptian Plover.

Tringa Vanellus^. The Baflard Plover.

It comes in great numbers in the beginning of
OiStober, and remains all the winter. I faw it about

» Lin. Syft. N«*t.P. 141. N. 2. '' P. 148. N. 2.

Cairo

2o8 ' BIRD S.

Cairo the 15th of December, 1750, where it is
efleemed good eating.

Several other fpecies of Plovers, which I have
already defcribed.

Pelecanus Onocrotalus <^. The Pelecan.

This bird comes to Egypt in the middle of Sep-
tember. In flying, they form an acute angle, like
the common wild Geefe, when they migrate. In the
fummer they inhabit the Black Sea, and coafls of
Greece; and, in their migration, remain for a few
days near Smyrna, and the other parts of the coafls
of Natolia, but never ftray far from the continent :
they fly very high. Some of them remain at Da-
miata, and in the iflands of the Delta, in the Me-
diterranean, but the greateil part goes to Egypt.

The Motacilla Ficedula arrives in September.

The Alaudse (Larks) Fringilla Carduelis (Gold-
finch) and domeftica, with feveral others of the Spar-
row tribe (Pafleres Linn^ei), remain all the year.

NOVEMBER.

Iisi this month all forts of water fowl abound In
the places lately overflowed by the Nile; for here
they find plenty of fmall frogs for food : they re-
main till near the end of the fpring, and come, per-
haps, from Europe ; nor are they, at this time, lefs
numerous in Natolia and the iflands.

Anas Bofchas ^. The Duck.

This appeared on the tables about the beginning
of this month : they are fliot, but in no great plenty.

= Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 1 3 2. N. i . '' Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 1 27 . N. 34.

Anas
4

BIRDS. 209

Anas Penelope ^^ The Wigeom

*rHis kind wa§ brought alive in great ntimbers,
about the middle and latter end of this month : they
are caught in nets at night, juft before the water is
entirely returned or dried up,

MARCH.

Tetrao Coturnix f. The Qudlh

An amazing number of thefe birds come to
Egypt at this time ; for in this month the wheat
ripens. They conceal themfelves amongfl the corn>
but the Egyptians know extremely well that there
are thieves in their grounds; and when they ima*
gine the field to be full of them, they fpread a net
over the corn, and furround the field, at the fame
time making a noife, by which the birds are fright-
ened, and endeavouring to rife, are caught in the
net in great numbers, and make a mofi delicate and
agreeable difli.

In December and January, 1749, 1 lawTringse,
Charadrii, and other migrating birds, of the genus
of Scolopax, fuch as Woodcocks, &c. at Smyrna ;
I afterwards faw in the following year, 1750, at
the fame time of the year, fome of the fame
kind of birds ill Egypt. Hence we fee, that
migrating birds are not at all obliged to go to the
fame climate or country ; but it is fufficient for them
to find a place where the air is temperate, and food
in plenty, in which they may winter ; neither do
thofe which winter in Egypt, come from the fame
places as thofe that winter in Natolia ; for I have
found by experience^ that birds go in a dire<5l line
from North to South, and never take their courfe

* Lin. Syft. Nat. P. I26. 24. ^ Lin. S) 11. Nat. P. 16 1 . N. 1 3.
P. from

210 BIRDS.

from Eafl to Weft, or Weft to Eaft. Hence it feems
probable, that thofe which winter in Natolia, come
from the borders of Mufcovy, Tartary, &c. and
thofe which winter in Egypt, from the oppofite
parts of Greece and Southern Europe.

The Birds of Damiata in Egypt, 1751.

Fulica atra. The Coot.

Anas grifea mediocris, roftro apice piano late ro-
tundato. The grey Duck.

Pelecanus Onocrotalus,

TpHE Pelecan, I faw at Damiata, was quite white;
and that I faw at Smyrna was of a greyiih, or
dark colour. The inhabitants of Damiata make a
veflel out of the upper part of the beak, with which
they lade the water out of their boats.

Anas Cygnus s. The Swan.
I 'saw this on the coaft of Damiata, near Egypt.

Poulle de Ris of the French.

This is of the Hen tribe (Ordo Gallinaceus
Linncei.) Corolla coccinea, reflexa in vertice. It is
plentiful in the fields, during the growth of the
Rice. The feafon was not yet come, in which it
might be procured ; for about this time thefe birds

g Lin. Syft.Nat. P. 122. N. x.

are

BIRDS. 211

are fcattered over the defarts, and hatch their
young. They come in May, and the following
months, taking up their quarters in the Rice fields,
eating the valuable food which nature defigned for
them.

The Animals which I faw in the
Holy Land.

(^U A D R U P E D E a

I. Hyftrisecriflata. The Porcupine.
IN the mount of Temptation near Jordan,

2. Canis aureus. The JackcalL Chical of the
Turks.

In the hedges near Jaffa.

3. Canis Vulpes. The Fox.

In the vineyards near Bethlehem and Philift^ea, in
great plenty.

4, Capra Cervicapra* The Rock Goat,
In mount Thabor.

5, Cervus Dama. Fallow Deer.
In mount Thabor,

P 2 BIRDS,

212 BIRDS.

BIRDS.

6. Vultur Percnopterus. The Egyptian Vulture.
Near Jerufalem.

7. Fal^o Gentilis. The Falcon.
With the Arabs.

8. Falco Tinnunculus. Keflrell.
In the mountains near Nazareth.

9. Vultur. A Vultur.
Near Cana in Galilee.

10. Corvus Monedula. The Jackdaw.
In numbers in the oak woods near Galilee.

1 1. Picus viridis. The Green Wood Spite.
At the fame place.

12. Merops Apiafler. The Bee-catcher.

In the groves and plains between Acra and
Nazareth.

13. Motacilla Lufcinia. Nightingale.

Amongst the willows at Jordan, and Olive-trees
of Judea.

14. Alauda arvenfis. The Field Lark.

Every where.

15. Frirtgilla

BIRDS, 213

15. FringillaCarduelis. Goldfinch.
In the gardens near Nazareth.

1 6. Tetrao rufus. The Red Partridge.

17. Tetrao Ifraelitarum. The<^ail of the Ifraelites.
In the defarts near the Dead Sea.

t8. Tetrao Coturnix. The Quail.
In Galilee.

19. Columba Turtur. The Turtle Dove.

20. Columba Palumbus. Ring Dove.
In Galilee.

CLASSIS

214 AMPHIBIA.

C L A S S I S III.

AMPHIBIA.

53. Lacerta crocodilus. The Crocodile.

54. Lacerta chamaeleon. The Chamseleon.
5^. Lacerta flellio. The Lizard Stellio.

^6. Lacerta sgyptia. The Egyptian Lizard.

57. Lacerta gecko. The Lizard Gecko.

58. Lacerta fcincus. The Seine.

$^. Lacerta nilctica. The Lizard of the Nile.

60. Coluber vipera. The Viper of the Shops.

61. Coluber ceraftes. The horned Viper.

62. Coluber haje. The Viper Haje.

63. Colubri du2e fpecies. Two Species of Vipers.

64. Anguis jaculus. The Snake Jaculus.
6^. Anguis colubrina. The Viper Snake.
66. Anguis ceraftes. The horued Snake,

Lacerta Crocodilus % The Crocodile,

T^ HE Crocodile fwallows ftones to aftift digeftion,

-*■ after the manner of feed-eating birds, which

commit to the ftomach the work of maftication, as

*i,inn. Eyftem. Nat. Pag. 200. No, i.

well

AMPHIBIA. 215

well as conco6lion, being deftitute of the inflruments
adapted to that purpofe.

The Egyptians fay that his excrements do not pafs
through the anus : this feems to be confirmed by the
flru£lure of the gut, which is near the Pylorus ; for it
cannot eafily be conceived, that excrements Ihould
pafs thro' fo narrow a paffage, feemingly deilined for
the conveyance of the Chyle only; but the ftru£ture
of the parts, and the Gut being fo near the Pylorus,
feem to indicate that the excrements pafs through it
into the Ventricle, and are vomited up. The inha-
bitants above Cairo fay, they fee this daily, and ob-
ferve that the Crocodile is obliged to come on fliore
as often as he has occafion to eafe himfelf. There
i? a Folliculus, of the bignefs of a Hazel nut, under
the Ihoulders of the old Crocodiles : this contains a
thick matter, which fmells like muik. The Egyp-
tians are very anxious to get this when they kill a
Crocodile, being a perfume much efteemed by the
grandees. I did not find one in any I diflcifted.
When the male copulates with the female, he turns
her with his fnput on her back.

The eggs of the Crocodile are larger than a
Hen's egg, but not fo large as that of a Goofe, be-
ing covered with a hard cruft, of a rugged furface,
and a cloudy white colour : thefe were taken out of
a female 30 feet long.

The Egyptians ufe the fat againfi: the Rheuma-
tifm, and fliffnefs of the tendons, edeeming it a pow-
erful remedy outwardly applied.

They fay the gall is good for the eyes : they
make ufe of it as a certain remedy for barrennefs in
women, taking about fix grains internally, and out-
wardly they apply a Pelfus, made of cotton, and the
gall of a Crocodile.

P 4 > The

»i6 AMPHIBIA.

The eyes of the Crocodile are the befl; Aphro-
dlfiac of any known by the Arabs, who prefer it to
all confeftions of Dia-fatyrii, Hyacinthi, &c. and
even to Amber-greafe.

The Crocodile does inexpreffible mifchief to the
common people of Upper Egypt, often killing and
devouring women who come to the river to fetch
Water, and children playing on the fhore, or fwim-
ing in the river. In the ftomach of one differed
before the Englifli Conful, Mr. Barton, they found
the bones of the kgs and arms of a woman, with
the rings which they wear in Egypt for ornaments.

He breaks the nets of the fiiliermen, if they come-
in his way, and they are often expofed to great
danger, 1 found a fifliing hook in the palate of the
Crocodile which I difledled.

Job, in c. iv. v. 20, aflceth, " Can a man draw up
the Leviathan (Crocodile ?)" And anfwers it in the
negative ; for it was known even in his time, that
this animal polTeffed the art of deflroying the hooks
and other utenfils of fiiliermen.

I TOOK this defcription at Cairo from one alive,
the 30th of January, 1751.

LiNN.EiJs hath given a defcription of the external
parts of this creature, in the firil volume of his
Amcenitates Academ. p. 122,

54, Lacerta Chamoeleon^. The Chamaeleon,

I FOUND the remains of various infe6^s in its
ftomach, viz. Tipulae, Coccionellas and Butterflies.
I faw part of an entire ear of Barley in the excre-
ments, which is very fmgular, I could "not find the
Vefica Urinaria (Bladder).

This animal is very fubje^i: to the Jaundice, ef-.
pecinlly if it is ms.de angry ^ it feldom changes un-

AMPHIBIA. 217

lefs it is made angry, from black to a yellow, or
greenifli colour, that of its gall; which laft, being
tranfmitted into the blood, appears very plain, as the
mufcles of the Chamasleon are very thin, and the
ifkin tranfparent or pellucid.

This Lizard, of which the ancients have related
fo many true and fabulous flories, and which is
known to all writers in Natural hiilory, under the
compound name of Chameleo, I procured alive cibout
this time, when the fpring had induced it to leave
the retreat wherein it had pafTed the winter. This
elegant creature is frequently found in the neigh"
bourhood of Smyrna, particularly near jhe village
Sedizeud : here it climbs the trees, and runs
amongll the flones. The people of the country
told me that it lived in hollow trees ; I have nor
been an eye witnefs of this, but have often feen
it climb on the branches of the Olive-tree,
Plane, &c. Every one knows the qualities attri-
buted to this animal ; that it changes colour, and
lives on air, without requiring other food.

I DID not fail making all the enquiry I could con-
cerning its nature, in a place where it is fo fre-
quently found. The inhabitants told me that it
would alTume the colour of a piece of cloth, or other
painted or coloured fubflance, which might be put
before it. Some have alTured me that it lives
only on air, but others have told me that they have
feen it catching a fort of very fmall flies.

I WILL now relate what I obferved myfelf, in one
I kept alive a confiderable time; and firft concernkig
the colour. I could never obferve that it affumed
the colour of any painted objeft prefented to its
view, though I have made many experiments, with
all kinds of colours, on different things. Flowers,
Cloth, Paintings, &c. Its natural colour is iron-
grey,

2i8 AMPHIBIA.

grey, or black mixed with a little grey. This It
fometimes changes, and becomes entirely of a brim-
ftone yellow: this is the colour I have feen it
mod frequently alTume, except that firll mentioned.
I have feen it affame a darker yellow, approach-
ing fomewhat to a green, fometimes a lighter ; at
which time it was in colour more inclined to a
white than a yellow. I have not obferved him to
aflume any more colours; fuch as red, blue, purple,
&c.- I am, for this reafon, inclined to beheve, that
all which" has been faid concerning the changing and
fhifting of colours in the Chamasleon, confiils only
in this, that on certain occalions it changes the
dark colour, which feems to be natural to it, into
yellow, of various (hades. This change it makes
frequently. I obferved, that it more particu-
larly did it on two occafions; one was when I ex-
pofed it to the hot beams of the fun, and the
other when I made it angry, which I did by point-
ing at it with my finger. When it was chang-
ing from black to yellow, the foles of its feet
(Plantas & Palm^e Pedum) its head, and the bag
under its throat (Gula faccata) began firft to change,
which was afterwards continued over the whole
body. I faw it feveral times fpeckled, or marked
with large fpots of both colours over the whole
body, which gave it an elegant appearance.
When it was of an iron grey colour, it extended
its fides, or ribs, and hypochondria, which made the
fkin fit ciofe to the body, and it appeared plump
and handfome; but as foon as it turned yellow, it
contracted thofe parts, appearing thin, empty, lean,
and ugiy; and the nearer it approached in colour
to white, the emptier and uglier it feemed, but it
appeared word in regard to Ihape, when it was
fpeckled. I kept this creature alive for twenty-
four

AMPHIBIA. 219

four days, from the 8th of March to the ifl of
April, without affording it an opportunity of
taking any food, yet was it nimble and lively during
the whole time, climbing up and down in its cage,
fond of being near the light, and conflantly rolling
its eyes, which are indeed admirable : I could how-
ver, at laft, plainly perceive that it waxed lean,
and fuffered for hunger. It could no longer hold
faft by the grating of the cage, but fell thro' weak-
nefs, when a Turtle, which was kept in the fame
room, bit it, and haftened its death. 1 have feen
the Chamseleon of Egypt, but it is lefs than the
Afiatic, and is not often met with.

55. Lacerta Stellio<=. The Lizard Stellio,

This creature frequents the ruinous walls of Na-
tolia, Syria, and Palasftine. The Arabs call it
Hardun. The Turks kill it; for they imagine,
that by declining the^ head, it mimicks them when
they fay their prayers.

^6. Lacerta (^gyptia) cauda verticillata fquamis
denticulatis, pedibus penta-da6lylis. The Egyptian
Lizard. Lacerta Cordylus "^ ?

This is found in the . mountains and plains of
Egypt.

5 7, ' Lacerta Gecko ^ The Lizard Gecko,

This is very frequent at Cairo, both in the
houfes and without them. The poifon of this ani-

<: Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 202. N. 10. '^ P. 202. 9. ^ P. 205.
N. zi,

mal

220 AMPHIBIA,

mal is very fingular, as it exhales from the Lobulf
of the toes. The animal feeks all places and things
impregnated with fea fait, and paffing over them
feveral times, leaves this very noxious poifon behind
Jt. In July, 1750, I faw two women and a girl, in
Cairo, at the point of death, from eating cheefe
new falted, bought in the market, and on which
this animal had dropt its poifon. Once at Cairo, I
had an opportunity of obferving how acrid the ex-
halations of the toes of this animal are, as it ran
over the hand of a man who endeavoured to catch
it; there immediately rofe little puftules over all
thofe parts the animal had touched; thefe were
red, inflamed, and fmarted a little, greatly refem-
bling thofe occafioned by the flinging of nettles. It
emits an odd found, efpecially in the night, from its
throat, not unlike that of a frog.

58. Lacerta Scincus *". The Seine.

This is found in Petrasa Arabia near the Red Sea,
and in Upper Egypt, near the Nile. It is much
ufed by the inhabitants of the Eaft as an aphrodi-
fiacum, but not at this time by the Europeans. The
fieih of the animal is given in powder, with fome
ftimulating vehicle; broth made of the recent flelh,
is likewife ufed by the Arabs. It is brought from
Upper Egypt and Arabia, to Alexandria, whence it
is carried to Venice and Marfeilles, and from thence
to all the apothecaries fhops of Europe. It has been
an error, common to almoll all authors, to imagine
the Scincus to be a fifli.

f Lin. Syft.Nat. P. 205. N. 22.

59. Lacerta

AMPHIBIA. 221

59. Lacerta (nilotica) cauda tereti longa, corpore
toto glabro, fquamis angulo obtufo notatis. The
Lizard of the Nile.

This Is met with in the moifL places of Egypt,
near the Nile. The Egyptians fay, that this Lizard
proceeds from the eggs of the Crocodile hatched in
the fand, but that the Crocodile proceeds from thofe
which are laid in the water. I need not add, that
this is in every refpeft falfe.

60. Coluber Vipera 2. The Viper of the Shops.

It is found in Egypt, and affords all thofe prepa-
rations which are to be had in the fliops : Sal Vi-
perce, Viperarum caro exficcata, Trochifci viperini,
are prepared from this Viper, fufficient for the in-
habitants, and for Europe. A confiderable quan^
tity is yearly carried to Venice, to make treacle j
and this is the true Viper of the Shops.

61. Coluber Cerailes ^. The horned Viper,
It is a native of Egypt.

62. Coluber Haje', The Viper Haje,

The Arabs call it Haje. It is found in Egypt.
When angry, it blows up its throat and neck to four
limes the fize of its body.

s Lin. Syft, Nat. P. 216. ^?. 217. 'P. 225.

63, Ifaw

222 AMPHIBIA.

6^. I faw two fpecies of Vipers at Cyprus.
r. One is called Afpic ; of this they relate :

(a) That it contains the moft fubtile poifon, kill-
ing within a few hours, with a univerfal Gangraene.

(b) That it changes its colour to that of the
ground on which it lies, ufmg this faculty as a ftra-
tagem, the better to enable it to feize its prey.

2. Of the other they fay :

(a) That it is at enmity with the firft, and
kills it.

(b) That one devours others of its own fpecies.

(c) That it feizes on Larks, Sparrows, and other
birds, with an incredible agility, whilll they are at
reft, devouring them entire j and this I have myfelf
feen.

64. Anguis jaculus^. .The Snake Jaculus.

65. Anguisfcolubrina^. The Viper vSnake.

66. Anguis ceraftes™. The horned Snake.
These three are all met with in Egypt.

. ^ Lin. Syft. Nat. V. 228 ^ P. zzS, '^ P. 228.

CLASSIS

H. ,223

C L A S S I S IV.

P I S C E S. F I S H.

67. Mursena anguilla ^. The Eel.

68. Echencis neucrates^. Sucking fifli.

Alexandria. The Arabs call it Chamel or Ferr-
hun : it is very rare in thefe waters.

65). Gobius paganellus *^. Gudgeon,
Harbour of Smyrna.

70. Scorpsena porcus '^^
Harbour of Smyrna.

71. Chsetodon nigrefcens ®.
The Red Sea.

72. Sparus nlormyrus ^.
Harbour of .Smyrna.

=»Lin. Syft.Nat.P. 225.N.4. ^P..26i.N. 2. «P.263.N. 2.
^ P. 266. N. I . « P. 274. N. 9. f P. 28 1 . N. 20.

73. Sparus

%24 FISH.

73. Sparus auratas. Gilt Head.
Smyrna.

74. Sparus orieiitalis.
Smyrna.

75. Sparus niloticus.
Nile. The inhabitants call it Giralle.

76. Sparus galil^us ^.
Lake Genazereth in Galilee.

77. Labrus Pavo '.
The Mediterranean, on the coafts of Syria.

78. Labrus niloticus ^.

This is the bed filh of the Nile. The Arabs
call it Buki.

79. Labrus orientalis.
Smyrna.

80. Sciasna umbra K

The Mediterranean fea, neat Damiata. The
Arabs call it Schifsch.

81. Perca segyptia. -Egyptian Perch.

The Mediterranean and Egypt. The Arabs
call it Charms.

8Lin.Syft,Nat.P.277.N. 1. ^P. 282.N. 22, IP.283.N.8.
^ P. 286. N. 24. ^ P. 289, N. 4.

$2. Perca

t' 1 S U, 22S

Sii Perca nilotica °*. The Perch of the Nile*

The Nile, near and above Cairo. The Arabs
call it Kefchr : the French, who dwell in Egypt,
Variole. The fleih has a fweet and exquifite fla-
vour, and is not hard, but very white. It is one of
the beft fillies of the Nile ; and as it is of the iargefl
fize in Egyptj it adorns a table, if brought on it en-
tire, and well fryed.

83. Perca Luth, The Damiatic Perch,
Damiata; The Arabs call it Luth.

84* Scomber Trachurus ^i
The Mediterranean fea j Smyrna.

85* Gafterofleus Du^lor °»
The Mediterranean*

86, Silurtis ClariasP^

It lives in the Nile, and is called Scheilan by the
Arabians. If it pricks any one with the bone of the
bread fin, it is dangerous, being poifonous. I have
feen the cook of a Swedifli merchant-ihip die of
the prick of this filh,

87. Silurus anguillaris 1.

It is found in the Nile, about Rofetta and Cairo.
The Arabs call it Gharmuth.

«» Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 290. N. 5. "P. 298* N. 6. ° P. 295. 2.
P P. 306, N. 10, 5 P. 305 iN. 5.

(4 88. Silurus

2i6 FISH.

88. Sllurus Myflus'.
The Nile, near Cairo.

8cj> Salmo nildticus *. The Salmon of the Nile.

The Nile, near Cairo. This fiili frequently
weighs loolb. The Arabs call it Nefafch. The
flefh is fweet, and one of the beft in the Nile.

90. Atherina Hep fetus ^

The harbour of Smyrna. The Turks call it
Jumifch baluk, i. e. Silver fi(h.

pr. Mugil Cephalus". The Mullet.

The Mediterranean Seaj Smyrna; Nile. The
Arabs call it Buri.

92. Clupea Alofa ^. A kind of Herring.

The Mediterranean Sea at Smyrna, and in the
Nile near Rofetta. This fifti goes up almoft as high
as Cairo, in December and January: they fill it
with wild Marjoram, and fry it, when it almoft in-
toxicates the eaters. The French call it Sardaine ;
the Arabs at Cairo, Sagboga. This fifh eats very
well, efpecially if fried in olive oil, or butter.

93* Cyprinus orlentalis.

94. Cyprinus niloticus ^.

The Nile.

»Lin.Syft. Nat P. 305.N. 4. ' P. 312. N. 22. ' P. 315. i.
■ P. 316. N. I. ^ P. 318, N. 13. * P. 322. N. 9.

95* Cyprinus

I

• FISH. 227

95. Cyprlnus Dentex y.

The Nile. The Arabs call it Kalb El Bar, i. e.
Sea Dog.

96. Mdrmyrus anguilloides^.
The Nile. The Arabs call it Cafchive.

97. Tetraodon (Fahaka) corpore teretuifculcabdo-
mine inflato utrinque aculeato, infra anum glabro.

The Nile, about Cairo, where it hath been
found but of late, and never known in former times,
according to the inhabitants. It came, perhaps.,
from the Mediterraneaut The Arabs call it Fa-
haka, and fay that it grows to a prodigious fize.
When it is iufl caught, it pricks the fkin, if it is
taken in the bare hands, and produces fmall puftules,
in the fame manner as nettles. This I have been
told by fifhermen ; who likewife informed me, that
the ileih is a fudden poifon. I have never had an
opportunity of trying it.

98. Syngnathus marinus. '
/ Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 325. N. 25. = P. 327. N. 2.

0^2 C L A S S I S

228 INSECTS.

C L A S S I S V.
INSECT A. INSECTS.

pp. Scarabseus Ceratoni^. The Beetle of the
Carob-tree.

100. Curculio Cypri. The Weevel from Cyprus.

1 01. Meloe CIchorii. The Bliftering Fly of the

Ancients.

102. Cerambyx fmyrnenfis. The Capricorn Beetle

from Smyrna.
.J03. Gryllus arabicus. The Locufl from Arabia.
"^04. Sphinx Atropos.

105. Phalsena fieus. The Moth of the Fig-tree.

106. Phalasna.

107. Phal^na amygdaU f rutins. The Moth of the

Almond.

108. Phaltena Mori. The Silk Worm.

109. Panorpa Coa.

no. Cynips Pfenes. The Gall Fly of the Fig.

111. Cynips Sycomori. The Gall Fly of thci

Sycamore.

1 1 2. Cynips aegypti. The Egyptian Gall Fly.
I J 3. Tenthredo fodomitica,

114. Tenthredodaftyli.

115. Ichneumon natolicE,

116. Ichneumon vitis.

117. Apis mellif era. The Bee.

118, Culex

IN S EC T S. 229

i 18. Culex cypri. The Gnat of Cyprus,
up. Culex aegypti. The Gnat of Egypt.
120. Mufra buphthalmi. The Fly of the Ox

Eye.
12 T. Acarus citri.
122. Acarus teftudinis.
125. Aranea galilasa. The Spider of Galilee.

124. Aranea vitis. The Spider of the Vine.

125. Aranea Coa. The Spider of Coa.

126. Cancer curfor. The Running Crab.

99. Scarabaeus ceratoni2e\ The Beetk of tbe
Carob-tree.

I

FOUND this at Cairo, feeding on the leaves
of the Carob-trec.

ioo. CurcUlio (Cypri) mediocris, fufcus, linea lon-
gitudinali atra in dorfo. The Weevel of Cyprus.

This I patched at Cyprus.

1 01. Meloe cichorii ^. The Bliflering Fly of the

Ancients.

This lives and feeds on the flowers of Succory.

102. Cerambyx fmyrnenfis. The Capricorn Beetle

of Smyrna.

I FOUND this at Smyrna, in the burying place o£
the Jews.

J 03. Gryllus arabieus. The Arabian Locufts.
? |,in. Syft. Nat P. 353. N. 57. >» P, 419. N. 5.

0^3 The

236 INSECTS.-

The ufe of Locusts for Food in
Arabia.

TjURING my ftay in Egypt, I ufed every means
to learn whether Locufls are to this day eaten,
either in this or the neighbouring countries. I was
the more foHcitous to be informed of this, as I thought
the anfwer would determine what St. John Hved on,
in the defart. Whether the aK^lSeg of this holy man
are Locufls, according to the hteral fenfe of the
word in all Grecian authors, or whether thefe
esV^/Jfg are the fruit of fome tree, or a kind of birds.
The firll has been the opinion of all interpreters
of the fcriptures, who attended only to the contents
of them; others, who have tranflated the New-
Teftament, were for flaewing their refined genius;
afferting, that St. John never eat Locufls, as they are
an unnatural food, never ufed by any body, and not
adapted for fuflenance. This is the flrongefl ar-
gument, by which they endeavoured to deflroy the
true meaning ; and this feigned unnaturalnefs, has,
as I imagine, occafioned an alteration, where there
needs none, and induced fome to crack their brains
in finding for St. John other food, than what he really
cat, during the rigorous courfe of life which he led
in the defart. If it can be demonflrated, that Lo-
cufls are to this day eaten in the neighbourhood of
the place where St. John dwelt, the impoffibility apd
unnaturalnefs of this diet can no longer be afferted,
and the weakefl perfpn will form the following
conclufion ;

If

INSECTS. 231

If Locufts are to this day eaten in thofe places,
where St, John dwelt, I cannot fee why he may not
have lived on the fame infeft, according to the evan-
gehc hiftory, which therefore needs no alteration.
'A>c^»'(?£? will remain what they have been, and are
neither changed to birds nor fruit.

A TRAVELLER is the Only perfon who can learn
whether Locufts are to this day eaten in the Eaft ;
to accomplifh his defign, he muft either be an eye
witnefs, or receive informations from thofe] who
have been on the fpot, where they could know the
truth of it; of whofe veracity he muft be as well
affured, as if he had feen and eat them himfelf.
Arabia is the place where thefe informations are to
be obtained, a country inacceflible to Europeans : it
is therefore evident, that no European ever could,
or perhaps fcarcely ever will, be an eye witnefs to
the truth of this. Informations and relations there-
fore, procured from perfons who have vifited, and
feen the cuftoms of, the country, on which one may
depend, are the only means we have left to come at
the truth; and thefe I have earneftly endeavoured to
obtain, during my travels in Afia and Egypt. I
have afked Franks, who have long lived in the Eaft,
whether they ever heard that Locufts were eaten
there ? They all anfwered in the affirmative, and
thofe of greateft veracity I got in Egypt (Chaffin,
firft French interpreter in Alexandria, who had
lived thirty years in Egypt) and Aleppo (Bonard,
French Chancellor in Smyrna, who had long lived
at Aleppo) being the places where fuch informa-
tions may be eafieft obtained. I have afked Chrif-
tians, inhabitants of the country, Armenians, Gre-
cians, Coptites, and Syrians, who were born here,
and travelled in Syria, near the Red Sea and Egypt,
if they knew whether the Arabians eat Locufts ^

(^4 All

232 INSECTS.

All anfwered, that they have partly feen. them, cat
liiem, and partly heard it faid that they were ^
eommon food ainongft the Arabians. But the in-
formations I had from Greeks, who had travelled to
mount Sinai, are thofe I can mofl depend on; for
the Grecian chiuxh has a noted convent there. The
Arabians live in the places adjacent and near it,
wherefore they have a good opportunity of inform-
ing themfelves of their cufloms : I at length met
with a perfon who gave me better informations, and
ilronger alTurances than all the reft. This was a
Scheck, with whom I was acquainted at Cairo ; one
of the^ moil learned and moft ingenious of any
there, who had been fix years at Mecca. Him I
aiked, in the prefence of Mr. Le Grand, the prin-
cipal French interpreter at Cairo ; and Mr. Four-
mcnt (nephew to the learned Fourmont in Paris,
who was fent hither at the expence of the royal
French academy, to learn the Eaftern languages)
whether he knew that the Arabs fed on Locufts ?
And he gave me the following anfwer: "At Mecca,
which is furniihed with corn from Egypt, there
frequently rages a famine, when there is a fcarcity
in Egypi". The people here are then obliged, as in
all other places of the world, to fupport life
with iinufuai food. Locufts obtain a place then
amongft their victuals : they grind them to flower
in their hand mills, or poM^der them in ftone
mortars: they mix this flower with water to a
dougii, and make thin cakes of it, which they bake
like other bread, on a heated griddle; and this
ferves inftead of bread, to fupport life, for want of
fomcthing better." I further enquired whether the
Arabs do not ufe Locufts, without being driven by
jieceflity ? Lie anfwered, that it is not uncommon to
fee them eat Locufts, when there is no famine; but

then

I N S E C T S. 235

di€ii they boil them a good while in water, after-
wards flew them with butter, and make a fort of
fricaiTee; which, he fays, has no bad tafte, he
having tafced thera. I further enquired, whether
the Locufls of the Arabians were different from
thofe in Egypt ? He anfwered, No ; and faid he
had feen none in Arabia, but thofe he had feen
in Egypt, of larger and fmaller kinds ; that they
take little and big, without di(l:in£lion, for this ufe;
and that at certain feafons of the year, thefe in-
fers are as common in Arabia, as they are fcarce in
Egypt, at this time; where they, at leaft, never oc-
cafion a plague to the country, as they do in other
places.

1 04. Sphinx Atropos <^.
This is fometimes found in the houfes of Cairo.

I ©5. Phalasna (Ficus) minima gregaria Candida.
The Moth of the Fig-tree.

I FOUND this between Acra and Tyre, fitting on
the Fig-trees; near the road which Alexander
made for the pafTage of his army.

106. Phalsena parva atra fubtus ferruginea.

This I found on the mountain of Precipitation,
near Nazareth.

107. Phalsena amy gdahfruclus.

It is odd, that Almonds cheriili a Moth, when
moft other fruits nourifh a Dermefles, Tenthredo, or
fome other infeft.

108. Phal^namori^. The Silk Worm.
«^ Lin. Syft. Nat P. 490. N. 8. dp. ^p^. n. 18.

I The

234 INSECTS.

The manner of breeding Silk Worms
in Syria.

THE eggs are laid in a warm room: the women
often carry them in their bofoms, or lay them be-
tween the bolfters in a bed, where they are hatched ;
and to the Worms they immediately give Mulberry
leaves, to which they ftick faft. They eat and
grow for forty days, all that time laying on flages
made of reed, in an arbour formed of boughs
of trees. The worms are covered once a day with
Mulberry leaves; and creeping upon thefe leaves,
they feem ahnofl to cover them, by the time a new
layer of leaves is to be put over them. When they
begin to change colour, the people fet up branches
of various trees ; thefe they climb up, and begin to
fpin. When they have left off fpinning, they are
taken from their habitations ; fuch as are to be
ufed for (ilk, which is by much the greateft part,
are laid in hot water, and wound on a reel ; the re-
mainder are kept alive to be transformed into moths,
for preferving the breed. When the Moths are
come forth, the attendants fpread a black carpet in
the room; on this they lay their eggs, which are pre-
ferved in fmall bags. Thunder frequently deftroys
the worms, and Ants are their enemies, wherefore
they cannot be bred in Egypt. Seyde (Sidon) ex-
ports yearly filk to a great value, as does alfo Tri-
poli. The former of thefe places fends the greateft
part to Damafcus, where they manufacture the
beautiful watered half filks, viz. Cotton and Silk
mixf, which are not to be equalled in any other
4 part

INSECTS. 235

part of the world. Tripoli fends mod of its filk to
Europe, which the French and Englifti carry away.
The filk which comes from Baruth, and is manu-
fa^ured on Antiliban, is faid to excel all the filks of
Syria.

109. Panorpa Coa^.

This I found on the ifland Meteline and Stan-
chio (formerly Cous) in the Archipelago.

1 1 o. Cynips Pfenes ^. The Gall Fly of the Fig.

I SAW this at Smyrna. It lives in the female Figs,
the germina of which I have obferved to be eaten by
this infeftjfindingoneof them in almofl every germen.

Is this infeft the Cupid of the Fig, carrying the
pollen to the female ? The Fig is to be confidered as
its gall ; it eats the germen of the figs, and does
more harm than good. When it is hatched, does it
do the office of a mediator j* (Vid. Amoen, acad. torn,
p. 41-)

III. Cynips Sycomori s. The Gall Fly of the
Sycamore.

It dwells in the fruit of the Sycamore.

112. Cynips -^gypti. The Gall Fly of Egypt.

I HAVE found this in the leaves of various trees
in Egypt, but particularly the Sycamore.

' Lin. Syft-Nat, P. 552. N. 3. ^ P. 554.. N. 13. «P.554.
N. 14,

113, Tenthredo

t^6 INSECTS.

113. Tenthredo fodomitica.

I HAVE found this In the Mad Apples, near
mount Thabor and the Dead Sea.

1 14. Tenthredo Da£lyli.

This I found in the ftem of a Date tree at Da-
miata.

r f 5. Ichneumon Natoliae.
Katoha.

116. Ichneumon Vitis.
I SAW this oil the' vine a!t Smyrna.

J 17. Apis mellifera^ The Common Bee.

The Egyptian Bee-hives are very fingular in
their kind. They are made of coal duft and clay,
which being well blended together, they form of
the mixture 'a hollow cylinder, of a fpan diameter,
and as long as they pleafe, from fix to twelve feet:
this is dried in the fun, and becomes fo hard, that it
may be handled at will. I faw fome thoufand of
thefe hives, at a village between Damiata and Man-
fora; they compofed a wall round a houfe, after
having become unferviceable in the ufe they were
firfl fnade for.

«> Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 576. N. 17.

120. Culej?

INS EC T S. 2s7

1 1 8. Ctriex cypri minimus fubfufcus, anteimis bre-
viirimis fafciculis plumolis, alis ovatls. The Gnat
of Cyprus.

This is an infeft peculiar to Cyprus, and occa-
fions great uneafmefs, by its painful bites in the
night ; which leave puifules more inflamed, and
longer of duration, than thofe made by the common
Gnat.

119. Culex asgypti articulationibus candidis. The

Gnat of Egypt.

120. Mufca Buphthalmi. The Fly of the ^ Ox

Eye.

This is found in the common Ox Eye, near
Damiata in Egypt, in great numbers.

121. Acarus citri.
I HAVE feen this infe£t in a rotten lemon.

122. Acarus tefludinis.
This lives on the Land Turtle at Smyrna.

123. Aranea galilsea. The Spider of Galilee.

This I found near the Fountain of Solomon in
Galilee.

124. Aranea vitis. The Spider of the Vine,
This I found on the -vines in Natolia.

125. Araaea

6J8 INSECTS.

125. Aranea coa. The Spider of Coa.
Island of Stanchio, in the Archipelago.

ii6. Cancer Gurfor ^ The Running Crab.

This lives in the fea, and on the coafls about
Egypt and Syria : I took it on the coaft of Alex-
andria, in the month of May.

This animal is very fmgular, coming up from the
fea about fun-fet, and running very fafl on the
fandy fhore, in great numbers. The fituation of
the eyes in the feelers (Antennas) is very remark-
able ; the fame may be faid of the ftrufture of the
Antennse, and the appendices to the tail.

C L A S S I S

V E R M E S. i39

:^^

C L A S S I S VI.

VERMES.

127. Sepia oftopodia ^. The Cuttle-fifh.

128. Pinna muricata ^

THE Cuttle-fifti (Sepia oftopodia) is the moft in-
veterate enemy of this animal, rufliing in, and
devouring it as foon as it opens the lliell, unlefs pre-
vented; but there being always one or more Craw fifh
(Cancer pinnotheris) in the Ihell, which always keep
in the mouth of it, when the animal opens it ; and as
foon as the enemy advances, the Craw fifh gives notice
of the danger, and the Pinna fliuts her £b,ell. The
Craw filh is permitted to live within the fhell, as a
recompenfe for its trouble. This is a wonderful
inftitution of the moft wife Creator. The Greeks
eat this during Lent, and almoft all other ihell filh
and vermes ; as they are not only forbid meat, but
all kinds of filh.

The tentacula, or the fibres which compofe the
beard of this Ihell filh, are as fine as filk, and feera
well adapted to be woven or raanufadlured, if they
were colle^led.

* Lin. Syft. Nat. P.625.N.I. ^^P. 658. N. i. 'P. 707. N. 225.

PLANT JE.

^6 PLANTS.

PLANTS* PLANTS.

1. Iris tuberofa. Flower-de-Luce*

2. Cornucopise cucullatum. The Horn of Plenty

Grafs*
2. Hypecoum prociiitibens*
jj., Anagallis monelli. Pimpernel

5. Mirabilis jalappa. Marvel of Peril.

6. Solanum fanaum. The Night Shade of Egypt-

7. Cordia myxa. Sebeften.

8. Lycium atrum. Boxthorn.

9. Chenopodium asgyptiacura. Egyptian Goofc

Foot.

10. Cicuta Tirofa. Water Hemlock.

1 1. Linum ufitatiffimum. Flax.

12. Ornithogalum umbellatum. Umbellated Star

of Bethlehem*

13. Aloe perfoliata. Mitre -fliaped Aloe.

14. Lawfonia fpinofa. Alhenna.

15. Anagyris fcetida. Stinking Bean trefoil
J 6. Caffia Sophera. Wild Senna.

17. Fiftula.

18. Ketfchta. The wild Senna of Egypt

19. Punica granatum. Pomegranate.

20. Kofae yariae. Rofes.

41. Nymph«3L

PLANTS. 241

21. Nymplicea lotus. The Egyptian Water Lilly,

22. Mimofa lebbeck. Acacia of Upper Egypt.~

23. Mimofa niiotica. Gum Arabic Acacia.

24. Anemone coronaria. "Wind-flower of Natolia.

25. Clematis orientalis. Oriental Virgins Bower.

26. Origanum ^gyptiacum. Wild Marjoram of

Egypt. _

27. Nepeta fyriaca. Syrian Nep.

28. Orobanche Icevis. Broom rape.
29.' Draba verna. Common Madwort.

30. Lathyrus cegyptiacus. jSlgyptian Chickling

Vetch,
3 1 : Dolichos lablab.

32. Carthamus tinftorius. Safflower.

33. Artemifia dracunculus. Tarragon.

34. Viola odorata. Sweet-fcented Violet;

35. Arum colocafia. Colocafia.

^6. Urtica dioica. Great Egyptian Nettle.

37. riatanus orientalis. Oriental Plane.

3S. Momordica luffa. Balfam Apple of Egypt,

39. Balfamina. Balfam Apple.

40. Cucurbita lagenaria. The Bottle Gourd.
41. Citrullus. Water Melon.

42. Cucumis fativus. Cucumber.

43. — Melo. Melon.

44. — chate. The Queen of Cucumbers, Ot

Egyptian Melon.

45. Rufcus aculeatus. Prickly Knee-holly.

46. Ceratonia filiqua. Carob-tree.

47. Mufa paradifiaca. Plaintain-tree^

48. Ficus fycomorus. The Scripture Sycamore.'

49. Phoenix daftylifera. The Date-tree.

50. Bryum segypti. Egyptian Bryam Mofs,

E ji. Irlj

242 PLANT S.

I. Iris tuberofa *. Tuberous Flower-dc-Lace.
J FOUND this at Smyrna.

2. Cornucopije cucullatum ^. The Horn of Plenty
Grafs.

I FOUND this plant the 2 2d of March, in the
neighbourhood of Smyrna, towards Barnaba : this
is one of thofe which I was very defirous of feeing.
It is a grafs, in appearance quite different from all of
its tribe. I was the more rejoiced to find it, as it has
been feen and defcribed by very few botanifts in its
natural ftate. It is to be found in the vales round
Smyrna, and has not been met with growing wild in
any other place ; nor has it ever entered any bota-
nical garden. I have defcribed it well, gathered
the roots of it, and ufed all my endeavours to have
it fent to the botanical garden at Upfal, as Pro-
feflbr Linnaeus had thought proper to charge me
with this in particular.

g. Hypecoum procumbens*'.

This grows near the garden walls at Smyrna^
and is by the Turks called Blebleli Tchidgeck. The
Bees colled much honey from the nedarium of the
bloffom.

4. Anagallis monelh ^. Blue Pimpernel.
This grows about Smyrna.

» Lin. Syft. Nat. P. 58. N. 19. " P. 79. N. i. = P. iSi.

N, U d p. 21 I.N. 2.

5. Mirabilis

PLANTS. 24^;^*"

5. Mirabilis jalapa«; Marvel of Peru.

This is. cultivated in the gardens and walks at
Cairo.

6, Solanum fan6lum ^. The Night Shade of Egypt.

The Egyptians call it Meringam. The fruit is
much eaten in Egypt.

7. Cordia myxa S. Sebeften.

This grows in the gardens of Egypt; the fruit
ripens in November, and is tlie Sebelten of the
fliops.

8. Lycium afrum ^. Box Thorn.

This grows on the banks of the Nile near
Cairo.

9. Chsenopodium segyptiacum. Egyptian Goofe-
foot.

This grows in the ruins of Alexandria, near th©
coafts of the Mediterranean Sea, and flowers in
May. The Egyptians ufe it in fallads, on account
of its faltifli-aromatic talle, which is agreeable.
Kali is poffibly m.ade from this in other countries ;
but here they ufe a Fig-Marigold (Mefembryanthe-
mum) which likewife grows in the ruins of Alex-
andria.

\

'Lin.Syft.Nat. P.2C2.N. I. fP. 26g.N. 26. SP. 273.N. i.'
*P. 277. N. 2.

R a 10. Cicula

H^' PLANTS.

10. Cicnta virofa * . Water Hemlock.

Tpiis grows in plenty on the banks of the Nilcj.
and on the coafts of the iflands. I faw it in No-
vember, 1750, growing on an ifland, oppofite that
on which the Nilometer (the houfe where the
height of the Nile is taken) ftands, and though all
the other plants on the ifland were greedily de-
voured by the oxen and cows, yet they never of-
fered to touch this. I mud in this place refer to
the Dillertation de Viribus Plantar, in the firft vo-
lume of Linn. Amoen. Acad, where I treated on the
Marfli Hemlock and Water Hemlock. The above
circumflance confirms v/hat I there afferted, and
proves, that nature a6ts always confiilently with her
own defigns.

II. Linum ufitatiffimum '^. Flax.

This is much cultivated in Egypt, efpecially the
ifland of Delta, and near Damiata. A confiderable
quantity is yearly exported to Venice and Leghorn.
It is foft and good, but not better than the Euro-
pean. They make to this day, cloth of it ih
Egypt, v/hich is coarfe, and of little value, when
compared to what is made in Europe ; however, the
Turks purchafe it, as do the Europeans, on account
of its cheapnefs. By what we can fee from the
linnen wrapt round the Mummies, the famous
linnen of the ancient Egyptians, was not better
than what is made at prefent in this country. But
it was then the beft, as Egypt alone pofleffed the
art of cultivating and manufafturing Flax. The
Egyptian linnen is not fo thick as the European,

i Lin. Syft.Nat.P. 336. I. ^ P.397.N. i,

2 being

PLANTS. 245

being fofter, and of a loofer texture; for which
reafon it lafts longer, and does not wear out fo fooii
as ours, which frequently wears out the fafter, on
account of. its ftifthefs. The common people in
Egypt are cloathed in linnen only, dyed blue with
indigo; but thofe of better fortune have a black
cloak over their fliirt, or linnen. Flax grows very
high in Egypt. I have feen a ftem four foot high,
and as thick as the flem of the common llufli. ic
flowers in winter.

12. Ornithogalum umbellatum ^ Umb ell ated Star
of Bethlehem.

I FOUND it in Smyrna,

13. Aloe perfoliata vera ^. Mitre-iliaped Aloe»

This Is a kind of fymbolick plant to the Maho-
metans, efpecialiy in Egypt, and in fome meafure
dedicated to religion; for whoever returns from a
Pilgrimage to Mecca, hangs this plant over his
flreet door, as a token of his having performed this
holy journey. The fuperftitious Egyptians be-
lieve, that this plant hinders evil fpirits and' apDa-
ritions from entering the houfe ; and on this ac-
count^ a perfon v/ho walks the ftreets in Cairo, will
find it over the doors of Chriftians and Jews, who
have in all ages been fond of trifles. I fcarcely re-
member to have feen this cuftom any where but in
Cairo. It is a plant very common m the gardens of
Egypt.

The Egyptians diflil a water from this plant,
which is fold in the apothecaries fliops at Cairo, and

I Lin. Syft. Nat ?» 441. N. 9. ^ P. 458.

24^ PLANT S.

^s recommended in coughs. It is likewife given with
good fuccefs in hyfterics and afthmas. 1 have myfelf
feen its good efiedls in the beginning of a jaundice,
unaccompanied by a fever. An experienced French
chirurgeon gave a Coptite, forty years old, afflifted
with the jaundice, four tea-cups full of the diftilled
v/ater of Aloe, and cured him. in four days. This is
a remedy unknown to our apothecaries, but it cer-
tainly merits their attention ; nor is it difficult to ob-
tain it, as the plant might eafily be raifed in the
Southern parts of Europe. The Arabians call
it Sabbara.

14. Lawfonia fpinofa ". The true Alhenna.

This plant grows in India, and in Upper and
Lower Egypt, flowering from May to Auguft. The
leaves are pulverized, and made into a pafte with
water : they bind this pafle on the nails of their
hands and feet, keeping it on all night. This gives
them a ideep yellow, which is greatly admired by
the Eaftern nations. The colour lalts for three or
four weeks, before there is occaiipn to renew it.
The cuftom is fo ancient in Egypt, that I have
feen the nails of the Mummies died in this manner.
The powder is exported in large quantities yearly,
^nd auay really be reckoned a valuable commodity.
The Arabians call it Chenna. The dried flowers
allbrd a fragrant fmell, which women who have con-
ceived cannot bear.

15. Anagyris foetida p. Stinking Bean-trefoil.

This grov/s near Smyrna, and flowers in Ja-
nuary.

« Lin. £)ft. Nat. P. 498. *'P. 534. N. i.

'- ' ' 16, Caflla

PLANTS. 247

i^. Cailia fophera p. CafTia or "Wild Senna.

This tree is cultivated in the gardens at Cairo,
and by the Arabs called Sopher.

1 7. Caflia fiflula % The CafTia FiHula.

I HAVE feen and defcribed this plant in a fertile
plain, near the canal, which leads from the Nile to
Alexandria. There were feveral of them growing
amongft the Date-trees, being about twelve feet
high, and from two to three fpans thick. It flow-
ers in May. The Arabs call it Hearfciambar.

18. Caflia Ketfchta.

This plant is a native of India and Arabia, but
is very feldom to be met with in the gardens of
Egypt, where I faw only one tender Ihrub of it.
I have been informed that the fruit of it is full of a
thickiili white juice. The Arabians call it Ketfchta,

19. Punicagranatum^. Pomegranate-tree.

I MET with a variety of this. The Item was
fmaller than in the common fort ; the leaves greener,
and the flower barren. The inhabitants of Cyprus
called it Balauflia, and fhewed it me as a fmgular
tree, becaufe it bore no fruit, for which they could
not account, being ignorant of the myfteries of
nature.

p Lin. Syft,Nat. P. 542. N. 22. q P. 540. N. 14. 'P. 6-^6.
N. I.

R 4 20. Rofa

24^ -P X. A N T S.

20. Rofa^ TheRofe.

The Arabians call this at prefent Uard, which
does not at all agree with the Hebrew name Bar-
kanim Celfii hierohotanicum 2. p. 192. Perhaps the
people of the Eafl have given different names to the
different varieties, fo that the Hebrew name may
have been formerly given to B-ofa damafcena hort.
Upf. (Rofa centifolia Linn.) but the Arabian to the
Rofa rubra (Red Rofes) which is common in Arabia.
At this time Uard is the name given to all the va-
rieties in Egypt, where they are almoil all to be
had.

Rofa gallica ^ Red Rofes.

These are common in the gardens at Rofetta and
Damiata, where they plant them for the purpofe of
making rofe-water. This rofe b^ars fmall flowers,
and thofe of no ftrong fcent ; for which reafon it is
cf no great value at Cairo.

Rofa Cinnamomea ". The Cinnamon Rofe.

This is fomewhat fcarce. It is cultivated at Da-
iniata and Upper Egypt for hs beauty.

Rofli alba ^. V^Thite Rofe.

This is cultivated in confiderable quantities in the
province Fa] hum, of Upper Egypt, not far from
the Pyramids. It is of a pale colour, not quite

s Linn. Hort. Upf. 132. i. Spec. Plant. 704. * Spec. PI. 8.
Rofa Rubra Multiplex Hort. Upf. 13. " Spec. PL 4. Rofa odo-
ye Cinnamonic, fimplex Hort. Upf. ^ Sp. PI. 13^ Rofa alba
ffort; Pleiio Hort. Upf.

V/hite,

PLANT S. 249

white, but rather inclining to red; the flower is
double, being frequently of the fize of a man^s fid,
and emit the mod fragrant odour of any I have feen.
The flirubs live to a great age. From this fort the
Turks and Egyptians diftil the water. An incredi-
ble quantity is diftilled yearly at Fajhum, and fold
in Egypt, being exported to other countries. An
apothecary, who kept a iliop in the ftreet of the
Franks, bought yeai'ly 15001b. (about 180 gallons)
which he caufed to be brought to the city in copper
veffels, lined with wax, felling it to great profit at
Cairo.

The Eaftern people ufe the water in a luxurious
manner, fprinkling it on the hands, face, head, and
cloaths, of the gueft they mean to honour, after-
wards perfuming them with frankincenfe, the wood
of aloes, &c.

21. Nymphsea Lotus ^. Egyptian Water Lilly.

This grows in vaft quantities in the plains of
Lower Egypt, near Cairo, during the time they
are under water. It flowers about the middle of
September, and ripens towards the latter end of
Oftober. The Arabians call it Nuphar.

22. Mimofa Lebbeck 7. Acacia of Upper Egypt.

This flowers in June, growing to be a large
tree. It is cultivated in the gardens at Cairo ; but
I know not whether it is a native of the country.
The Arabs call it Lebbeck.

•^ Linn. Sp. PI. ?. 729. N. 3. J' P. 1503. N. 22.

23. Mimofa

5SQ PLANT

S.

23. Mimofa Nilotica*. Gum Arabic Acacia.

The Arabs call it Charad. This plant, and not
the Miraofa Senegal Linn. Spec. Pi. 1506. 32. as
naturalifts have hitherto imagined, produces the
Gummi Arabicum (Gum. Arabic) Gummi Thuris
(Frankincenfe) and the Succus Acacice.

N. B. This fpecies, and the Mimofa Senegal,
grow together promifcuoufly : hence it happened,
that the Mimofa Senegal having been by chance
brought to Europe, inftead of the Mimofa Nilotica,
and Alpinus not having diftinguiihed one from the
other, the Mimofa Senegal was by all writers in
Botany, and Materia medica, believed to be the
plant that produced the above-mentioned gums ; but
the true plant was only known to thofe who culti-
vated it in Egypt. The Egyptians know one from
the other extremely well, and have given them dif-
ferent names, calling the true one Charad, and the
other, which is neither of ufe nor value. Feme,
They both grow in Lower Egypt, where they are
planted in gardens : I have, however, feen them
grow wild in the fandy defart, near the ancient
Sepulchres of the Egyptians, and have been in-^
formed that the Mimofa nilotica (Acacia vera) grows
plentifully in feveral parts of Upper Egypt. The
gum is gathered in vaft quantities from the trees
growing in Arabia Petrsea, near the North Bay of
the Pted Sea, at the foot of mount Sinai, whence
t:hey bring the Gum Thus (Frankincenfe) fo called
by the dealers in drugs in Egypt, from Thur and
Thor, which is the name of a harbour in the North
Bay of the Red Sea, near mount Sinai, thereby dif-^

? t-inji. Sp. PI. Pag. 1506. N..34.

tinguiiliing

plants; 251

tinguifhing it from the Gum Arabic, which i$ brought
from Suez, another port of the Red Sea, not far
from Cairo. Befides the different places from which
thefe gums are brought, they differ alfo in fome
other particulars. The Gum Thus is more pellur
cid, white, or of no colour at all ; but the Gum
Arabic is lefs pellucid, and of a brown or dirty yel-
low colour.

24. Anemone coronarla ^. Wind-flower of Na-

tolia.

I HAVE feen this growing in the plains and bot-
toms of mountains, near Smyrna in Natolia.

25. Clematis orientalls ^. Oriental Virgins Bower.
This grows in the hedges round Smyrna.

26. Origanum segyptiacum <=. Wild Marjoram of

Egypt.

I HAVE feen this in the gardens at Cairo, being
introduced there on account of its fmell; which is
ftronger than that of the Dittany of Crete (Origa-
num veticum) aromatic, and comforts the head.
The Arabians call it Zatarhendi, i. e. Origanum
jndicum.

27. Nepeta fyriaca. Syrian Nep.

This grows in great plenty in the gardens, and
near the walls at Smyrna.

^ Linn. Sp. PI. Pag. 760. N. 8. ^ P. 765. N. 4. <= P. 822.

28. Oronanche

252 PLANTS.

s 28. Orobanche leevis '^. Broom-rape,
This grows in moifl places round Smyrna,

29. Draba verna^ Common Madwort,
About Smyrna.

30. Lathyrus aegyptiacus pedunculls unifloris, cirrhis
triphyllis, foliolis enfiformibus.

This grows in the fields of Damiata.

31. Dolichos lablab ^.

Alpinus fays, that this grows wild in Egypt ; buf
it is cultivated in gardens, and I am certain does not
grow wild in Lower Egypt. The Egyptians call it
Ful Frangi, i. e. the European bean : hence one
might conjecture that the Europeans firfl brought
it to Egypt. The Egyptians make pleafant arbours
of this in their houfes and gardens, by fupporting
the item, and leading it where they think proper.
They not only fupport it with flicks and wood, but
tie it with cords, by which means the leaves fonii
an excellent covering and an agreeable fliade.

32. Carthamus tinflorius g. SafHower.

This is cultivated in large quantities in Egypt.
The flowers are gathered thrice a year. The flow-
ers are much ufed for dying, and are a valuable
commodity to Egypt. The manner of preparing
them is as follows : they are gathered frefli, and

«• Linn. Sp. PI. P. 881 . N. i. = P. 896. N. 2. f P. 1019. N. 2.
5 P. 1162. N. I.

preiTcd

PLANTS. 253

preffed between two flones, to extract the crude
juice which is thrown away : the flowers, after be-
ing prelTed, are waihed feveral times in fpring
water, which is brackijQi in Egypt ; by this the re-
maining acrid juice is wajQied away : they are then
taken out, as much at a time as a perfon can hold
in his hand, and the water is fo well preiTed out,
as to leave the impreffion of the fingers. They are
then put on the flat roofs of houfes, and laid on
matts, being now of a yellov/ colour. In the day
time they are covered with ruflies or ftraw, left they
fliould dry too faft, and too much by the heat of the
fun ; but at night they are uncovered and expofcd
to the- air and dew. The dew changes them into a
deep yellow; they are dried by the moderate heat
of the night ; and for this reafon there are people
conftantly employed in turning them. They are
afterwards fold to France, Venice, Florence, and
England, under the name of Saffranon. The
young leaves are ufed for fallad in Egypt : at
Smyrna they powder them, and put them into milk
to coagulate it ; and in this manner all cheefe is
made in Egypt. The feeds are eaten by the Parrot
of Alexander, which is very fond of them : to other
birds or beads they would be a mortal poifon.

33. Artemilia dracunculus ^. Tarragon.

The Egyptians fay, that if Flax feed is put into
an onion, and afterwards planted in rich ground, it
will produce this plant, A fine fable.

*> Linn. Sp. PI. ?zg. 1 1S9. N. 19.

34. Viola

254 PLANTS.

34. Viola odorata K The fweet-fcented Violet*

This is one of the plants mofl efteemed by the
Egyptians and Turks, for its excellent fmell and
agreeable colour ; but efpecially for its great ufe in
Sorbet, which they make of Violet Sugar, dif-
folved in water, and drink frequently; but efpe-
cially when they intend to entertain their guefts in
an elegant manner. This is one of the many forts
of drink, which are originally Arabic, and by them
called Sorbet ; the other forts are made with raifms,
boiled in water; capillaire, mixed with water; the
deco6lion of liquorize, and perhaps other things ;
the grandees fometimes add ambergreafe, which is
the higheft pitch of luxury and indulgence of their
appetite. The Arabians call thefe flowers Neps.

35, Arum colocafia ^. Egyptian Wake Robin^
called Colocalia.

This is met with in the fields and gardens of
Egypt;

3 6. Urtica dioica \ The greatefl Egyptian Nettle.

The Arabians call it Curcis. It is found m
Egypt.

37. Platanus orientalis™. The Eaflern Plane.

i8. N. 5. 'P.139

38. Moraordica

iLinn. Sp. Pl.Pag. 1189.N. 19, "^ P. 1368. N. 5. 'P. 1396.
N. 6. ""P. 1417. N. I.

PLANTS. 255

38. Momordica luffa °. ^Egyptian Balfam Apple.

The Arabians call it Liff and LuiF. It is culti-
vated in gardens, and climbs up on Palm-trees, co-
vering and elegantly adorning the ftem of them.

39. Momordica balfamina *'. Balfam Apple.

This plant is famous in Syria for curing wounds.
They cut open the unripe fruit, and infufe it in
fweet oil, expo fed to the fun for fome days, until
the oil is become red, which they preferve for ufe.
It is applied to a frefh wound dropped on cotton.
The Syrians reckon this the bell thing to cure
wounds, next to balfam of Mecca ; and have found
by experience, that it often cures large wounds
within three days. The leaves and Hems are be-
fides ufed for arbours or bowers. It is cultivated in
gardens.

40. Cucurbita lagenaria P. Bottle Gourd.

The Arabians call it Charrah. The poof peo-
ple eat it. They boil it, and feafon it with vinegar:
they likewife fill the fliell with rice and meat, and
thus make a kind of pudding. It grows in all parts
of Egypt, and the defarts of Arabia, wherever the
mountains are covered with rich foil.

41. Cucurbita Citrullus 1. Water Melon.

The Arabians call it Batech. It Is cultivated on
the banks of the Nile, in the rich claiey earth, which

» Linn. Sp. PI. Pag. 1433. N.4. " P. 1433. N. I. p P.H34*
N. I. 1 P. J435. N. 5.

fubfides

2s6 PLANTS.

fubfides during the inundation, from the beginning
of May until the overflowing of the Nile, i. e. to the
end of July, or beginning of Augufl: ; and in the
ifland Delta, efpecially at Burlos, whence the largefl
and beil are brought. This ferves the Egyptians
for meat, drink, and phyfic. It is eat in abundance
during the feafon, even by the richer fort of peo-
ple ; but the common people, on whom Providence
hath bellowed nothing but poverty and patience,
fcarcely eat any thing but thefe, and account this
the bell time of the year, as they are obliged to
put up with worfe fare at other feafons : they eat
them with bread, and fcarcely ever taile them ripe.
This fruit likewife ferves them for drink, the juice
refrefhing thefe poor creatures ; and they have lefs
occafion for water, than if they were to live on
more fubllantial food in this burning climate. They
make a hole in the melon, in which all the juice is
coiie6led. This fruit alfo affords phyfic; but it
is not every kind of melon that anfwers this end.
There is a variety fofter and more juicy than the
common fort, and not fo plentiful. This comes from
Burlos. When this is very ripe, and almofl putrid,
they hollow part of it, gather the juice there col-
lected, and, mixing it with rofe water and a little
fugar, they give it in burning fevers, being the
only medicine the common people ufe in thofe dif-
tempers. It is, however, not fo frequent as Al-
pinus and Veilingius relate; for it can be had at
only one feafon of the year, and that is when the
fruit is ripe, which does not continue above three
"week^. This is very comfortable to the patient, for
it cools and refreflies him. This variety is by the
Arabs called Et-Naovi, which fignifies water. Al-
pinus, therefore, miilook the origin of the word.

A

PLANTS. 257

A CAUTION.

This fruit ihould be eaten with great circum-
fpeftion ; for if this coohng fruit be taken in the
heat of the day, when the body is very warm, bad
confequences often enfue, and it occafions colicks,
loofeneffes, fluxes, a foul ftomach, &c. I have been
told by a perfon from Europe, a man of veracity,
that he lafl year faw a merchant from Damafcus,
die fuddenly at Damiata, upon eating a whole water
melon when he was very hot. When I came to
Egypt I was much delighted with the appearance
and tafte of this fruit, having never f^en it before;
and tho' I was very cautious, eating only a Httle at
a time, yet it chilled my ftomach, as if I had fwal-
lowed a bit of ice, which obliged me to defift from
tafting it afterwards, and I likewife advifed others
from it ; for tho' it is very agreeable to the palate,
yet it can't be eat without danger. It is well known
that people are much troubled with worms, at the
time this fruit is ripe.

42. Cucumis fativus. The common Cucumber.

This grows with the Water Melons. The
vulgar boil and eat it with vinegar j the richer peo-
ple fill it with flclli and aromatics, and make a kind
of puddings, which eat very well. This ripens a
little later than the Water Melon, but then it is in
feafon longer, and until the latter end of the au-
tumn.

43. Cucumis

zsB P t A N T S.

43. Cucumis melo ^. Melon.

This is cultivated in the fame places, and ripens
at the fame time with the VsTater Melon : it is very
near as large as the Water Melon, the flefh is fofter
than with us, but more infipid, and has not the
agreeable fweetnefs of ours, efpecially when we
procure the feeds from Siberia. The richer people
eat them in the manner we do, to gratify the pa-
late ; tlie poorer fort eat them but feldom.

44. Cucumis Chate *^. The Egyptian Melon,' or
Queen of Cucumbers. Abdellavi of Alpinus.

This grows in the fertile earth round Cairo, after
the inundation of the Nile, and not in any other
jilace in Egypt, nor does it grow in any other foil;
It ripens with the Water Melons. This fruit is a
little watery, the flefli is almoft of the fame fub-
flance as the Melons, it taftes fomewhat fweet and
cool, but is far from being as cool as the Water
Melons.

This the grandees and Europeans in Egypt eat
as the mofl pleafant fruit they find, and that from
which they have lead to apprehend. It is the mofl
(Excellent fruit of this tribe, cf any yet known. The
Princes and grandees in Europe may wifli they could
get it into their gardens, for it is certainly worth a
place on their tables.

45. Rufcus aculeatus ^. Prickly Kneeholly.

^ Lin. Sp. PI. P. 1436. N. 5. •= Lin. Sp.PLP. 1437. N. 7.
d Lin. Sp. PI. P. 1474. N. I.

46. Ceratonia

PLANTS. 2S9

j^6. Ceratonia Siliqua ®. Carob tree.

4 7. Mufa. paradlfiaca ^. The Flaintaln-tree.

This Rowers in Egypt in the months of October
and November, i. e. after the inundation of the
Nile. It flowers, therefore, at a time when the air
is temperate, and the earth moid:, and the fruit ri-
pens when the air is exceffively hot. The fruit is
, fweet, rather hardifh, or between a pear and a
date, a httle vifcid and mealy, melting in the mouth
without being chewed. It foon becomes four, and
can't be kept above fix days in Egypt, after it is
taken from the plant. It is to be had frefli from
the latter end of May to the latter end of 0£l:ober,
growing plentifully near Rofetta; but it is very
fcarce at Cairo, tho' it grows there, but the trees
are alraofl all barren, producing but little fruit,
which is kept for ladies of the firll quality.

48. Ficus fycomorus s. The Scripture Sycamore.

This is a huge tree, the ftem being often fifty
feet thick. The fruit is pierced or bored by an in-
feft (Cynips fycomori) about the time it ripens, in a
very remarkable manner. There is an opening
made in the Calyx, near the time the fruit ripens,
which is occafioned in two different manners :
1. When the Squama, which cover the Calyx, wi-
ther and are bent back, as in the Ficus Carica (com-
mon Fig-tree) tho' this is not very common in the

= Lin. Sp.PI. P. i5i3,N. I. ^ P. 1477.N. i. s P. 15 13.
N. 2.

S 2 -Sycamore.

2^0 P L A ^ T S.

Sycamore. 2. What follows is worth attention, and
may ferve to excite our admiration. A h'ttle below
the fcales on the lide of the flower cup, there ap-
pears a fpot before the fruit is ripe; the fruit is af-
fected with a gangrsene in this place, which extends
itfelf further, and frequently occupies the fpace of
a fingers breadth ; it withers, the place affected be-
comes black, the flefliy fubftance in the middle of
the calyx, for the breadth of a quill, is corroded,
and the male bloflbms, which are neareft to the
bare fide, appear naked, opening a way for the in-
feCl, which makes feveral furrows in the infide of
the fruit, but never touches the fi:igmata, tho' it
frequently eats the germina. The wounded or
gangrcenous place is at firfi: covered or fliut up with

, the blofifoms, but the hole is by degrees opened and
enlarged, of various fizes, in the different fruits,
the margin and fides being always gangrcenous,
black, hard, and turned inwardly. The fame gan-
grcenous appearance is alfo found near the fquamce,
after the infefl has made a hole in that place.

Of this tree the ancient Egyptians made coffins,
wherein to lay their embalmed dead. The wood is
very proper for this ufe, as it does not rot for fe-
veral ages, and not until it is very old. The Mum-
mies which I faw in Egypt, were all prefer ved in
coffins made of this wood, which, as well as the
corpfe, had kept found for 2000 years. This large
and branchy tree, by fpreading out its boughs, af-
fords excellent fliade, being of great ufe to people
living in a fcorching clim^ate, and travelling through

. defarts, as they may frequently refl their wearied
limbs and drooping bodies, under the ftiade of a

^Sycamore. The fruit taftcs pretty well; when
quite ripe it is foft, v/atery, fomewhat fweer, with

■ 4L very little portion of an aromatic tafte. After I

cncc

PLANTS. 261

once had tailed it, I could fcarcely refrain from.
eating ; and if I had thought the frefli fruit whole-
fome, I fhould certainly have eaten a great deal of
it : tho' the receptaculum is flefliy enough, yet but
little of it is good, the infeft having eat much of it,
and often made its furrows to the outward fkin. This
tree grows in the plains and fields of Lower Egypt,
where I have feen it very common. It buds in the
latter end of March, and the fruit ripens in the be-
ginning of June ; it is wounded or cut by the inha-
bitants at the time it buds, for without this precau-
tion, as they fay, it will not bear fruit,

49. Phoenix da^lylifera''. The Date-tree.

This palm is of great ufe to the inhabitants of the
Eait, &c. The fruit or Dates are commonly eaten.
In Upper Egypt many families fubfifl almoil en-
tirely on Dates ; in Lower Egypt they don't eat fo
many, rather chufmg to fell them. The inhabitants
here yearly fell a confiderable quantity, which are
chiefly carried to the towns in Turkey ; for which
reafon we fee Dates expofed to fale in every town.
The Egyptians make a confer ve of the freih Dates,
mixing them with fugar ; this has an agreeable tafte.
The Hones or kernels of the Dates are hard as
horn, and nobody would imagine that any animal
could eat them. But the Egyptians break them,
grin'd them on their hand mills, and, for want of
better food, give them to their camels, which eat
them. In Barbary they turn handfome beads for
paternofters, of thefe ftones. Of the leaves they
make baikets, or rather a kind of iliort bags, which

^» Lin. Sp. PI, P. 1658. N. I.

are

t^n PLANTS.

iareufed In Turkey on journies, and in their houfes.
In 'Egypt they make fly -flaps of them, convenient
-enough to drive away the numerous infedls which
-incommode a n^an in this country: I have like-
,wife fee.n briifhes made of them, with which
•they clean their foffas and cloaths. The hard
.boughs, they jife for fences round their gardens, and
.cages,, to keep their fowls in, with which they carry
-on a great traffic : they alfo ufe the boughs for fe-

• veral other things in husbandry, inftead of other
-wood, which they are deflitute of. The trunk or

ftem is fplit, and ufed for the fame purpofes as the
branches : they even ufe it for beams to build
houfes, as they are flrong enough for fmall build-
ings : it is likewife ufed for firing, when there is
: want of better. The wood is foft and fpungy, but
.burns well. They lay a whole tree acrofs their

• cifterns, on which they wind the rope when they

• draw the water. The integumentum (covering)
•which covers the tree between the boughs, en-
tirely referables a web, and has threads,, which run

- perpendicularly and horizontally over one another :
it is of confiderable ufe in Egypt, for of it they

. make all the ropes which they ufe at their ciflerns,
&c. They have alfo rigging of the fame kind for

V their fmaller vefTels ; it is pretty ftrong and lalling.
They reckon in Egypt, that palm-trees afford to
their owners a fequin annually of profit for each
tree. It is common to fee two, three, to four hun-
dred fruit-bearing Date-trees all belonging to one
family, and one may fometimes fee three to four-
thoufand in the poffelTion of one man, which, at the
■above r-ate, bring in a confiderable revenue to their
owner, for the little fpot of ground they occupy.
A full grown Dat entree does not, at moft, take up
; 2 above

P' L A' N T" S5 2^^^^

above four feet in diameter, fo that they may be
planted within eight feet one of another.

50. Bryum segypti. -Egyptian Mofs.

This flowers in Noy ember on the walls, ruins,
and cifterns in Egyjpt.

PL ANTiEi

2(^4 PLANTS.

PLANTS ^GYPTI.

MARCH 12, 1751.

These flowered near the Nile, on the banks of
the branch that leads to Damiata.

Scorpiurus fulcata. Caterpillar.

Medicago polymorpha. Snail Trefoil.

Oxalis corniculata. Wood Sorrel.

Pimpinella Anifum. Common Anife.

Cichorium Intybus. Wild Succory.

Citrus Aurantium. Orange-tree.

Cnicus benedi£lus. Bleffed Thiftle.

Cardui fpecies foliis radical ibus ovatis, caulinis pin"

natifidis. A fpecies of Thiftle.
(Convolvulus Scammonia. Scammony.

MARCH 14. DAMIATA.
Adianthum capillus veneris. Maidenhair.

R anunculus foliis trilobis. The trilobed Crowfoot.

In the gardens.

Hypnum

PLANTS. i6s

Hypnum foliis crenatis.
In moid places and walls of the Aquedu£ls.

MARCH 1(5. DA MI AT A,

Peirofeliniim anifum. A dubious Plant.

Sonchus oleraceus. Sow Thiflle.

Senecio jacobceus. Ragwort.

Alfme foliis ovato-laiiceoiatis. Chickweed.

Euphorbia peplus. Spurge.

Phalaris panicula tomenrofa. Canary Grafs.

Lathyrus segyptiacus. iEgyptian chickling Vetch.

Melilla hortenfis. Baum.

Citrus Aurantium. Orange-tree.

Feflucte fpecus. ^Egyptian Fefcue Grafs.

Common in Egypt.

MARCH 19. D AMI AT A.

Mufa paradifiaca. Plaintain-tree.

The fruit of this is often eat by Field Mice (Mus
agreftis), who run on the tree and devour it.

Saccharum officinarura. Sugar Cane.

Vitis vinifera. Vine.

This is cultivated here for the fake of eating the
grapes, and not for wine, which is brought from
Candia, Cyprus, Scopuli, &c. and Europe, for the

ufe of the Chriilians,

^fchynomene fefban. Ballard fenfuive Plant,

A Willow by the Arabians, called Safsaf.

Phcsnix dafLylifera. Date-tree.

T MARCH

266 PLANTS.

M A R C H 22. D A M I A T A.

Solidago vlrgaurea. Golden Rod.

CralTula poriulacaria. LelTer orpin.

rianrago major. Plantain.

Vicia foliis obovatis acuminatis pubefccntibus, fti-

pulis deflexis laciniatis, laciniis acuminatis plu-

rimis. A fpecies of Vetch.
Matricaria chamomilla. Chamomile.
Feftuca. Phalaris, Avena. Fefcue Grafs, Canary

Grafs and Oats.
Rumex acetofella. Sorrel.
Cailia fiflula.
Phoenix daftylifera. Date-tree.

Of this eleven trees were grown together at the
bafis.

Atriplex vulgaris. Orach.

ArenariaE; fpecies. A fpecies of Sand Grafs.

The Lichen es of mount St. Cruz in Cyprus.

Lichen cruftaceus fiavus.

Lichen cruftaceus virefcens.

Lichen lamellofus fiavus.

Lichen lamellofus grifeus.

Lichen cruftaceus grifeus.

Lichen cruftaceus ater.

Lichen cruftaceus ex flavo & atro per circulos va-

riegatus.
Lichen foliaceus laciniis fmuatis.

Pancratium maritimum. The Sea Daffodil.

This the modern Greeks call x^^^°^' ^^^ "^t the
ancients know it by the fame name ?

A Crinum

PLANTS. 267

Crinum cetliioplcum. The Afpliodel Lilly from
jSthiopia.

It flowers in Auffuft.

Poliantlies tuberofa. Tube-rofe,

This flowers in Auguft. The Egyptians put the
flowers in fweet oil, and by this means give the oil a
mod excellent fmell, fcarce inferior to Oil of Jef-
famine.

L A P I D E S

STONES. 273

L A P I D E S.

STONES.

Opalus Gemma. The Opal.
Cos Damiat^. The Whetftone of Damiata.
Natrum i^GYPTiARUM. The Nitre of the An^
cients.

TH E Opal is one of the rareft Gems to be
met with. During nay ftay at Alexandria^
1 was lliewn a ftone by Mr. Roboly, the French
Interpreter, which was of the lize of a hazel-nut,
in the form of a half globe, and fet in a ring •, if
at was held horizontally, it had a very fine olive
colour j but if it was held perpendicularly, between
the eye and the light, it had the colour of the fineft
ruby. The prefent poffeflbr had procured it by
accident from a Peafanr, who found it amongft
fome old ruins, and fold it for five or fix-penee.
The Interpreter, who knew not what it v^/as, fee
no great value on it, and allced me, v^iether I
knew the ftone, and how much I thought it
worth?. I anfwered, that it was an Opal i but
could not tell him the worth of it, as I w^as nos:
ufed to prize fuch things, the value being often
proporrioned to the tafte and inclination' of the
purchafer ; I however told him, that it was worth
having and keeping, and might be of coniiderable
value to aperlon who was fond of Gems^ this being

T one

kj4- STONES.

one of the fcarcefl to be got. Some time after,
Mr. Roboly came to Cairo, where Mr. Liron-
court, the French Conful, a learned and very
curious man faw, admired, and eafily obtained
the Stone. Lironcourt accepted of the prelent
with pleafure, without knowing its value ; I was
therefore af1<.ed the fecond time about it, and an-
fwered as before j upon which Mr. Lironcourt
compared it with the defcriptions which Pliny,
and feveral other Authors, which he had in his
fine library, had given of the Opal, and was by
them confirmed that I was right. But he knew not
yet the value, and foon after fet out for Conflan-
tinople. He there fhewed the Stone to a Con-
noifleur, who told him it was an Opal, and that
he valued it at feveral thoufand ducats. The An-
cients knew the Opal perfedly well, and without
doubt it was more common with them, than it is
at prefent. This, which I have defcribed, had
probably lain concealed in the ruins of Alexandria,
ever fince the time when all kinds of Gems and
Jewels were part of the riches of its powerful in-
habitants. There is fcarcely any kind of Stone,
accounted precious by the Ancients, which is not
to be found in the ruins of Alexandria and old
Cairo ; fome of them polifhed, others rough. 1
have {qqh the CHalcedon, Aga-onyx, Sard -onyx.
Cornelian, all found in thofe places. I forbear
mentioning Emeralds, and Sapphires, which arc
frequently found there, and are not fo fcarce at
prefent as the former. The attentive Tavernier,
who was a great Connoifleur of Stones, fays, that
the Opal is not to be found in any place in the
v;orld, except in a mine in Hungary; but the An-
cients, without doubt, had this and many other
Stones, of which we know not the country or place

whence

STONES. ^75

whence they are brought, thofe places at prefent
being buried in obHvion. But we, on the other
hand, know the way to the diamond mines of In-
dia, with which the Ancients were unacquainted ;
therefore the Stone which in our times is mo'Il
efteemed, with its companion, the Ruby, was
not fo common with the nations of the ancienn
world, as at prefent.

Cos Damiatse. Whetfcone, Lapis foraminibus
ex cavatus, magnus, inaequahs, ex csruleo nigref*
cens. This large rugged and almoft black Stone,
•with many fmall holes, is found in Paleftine and
Galilee.

It is brought to Damiata for mill-flones, and
ought to be better examined in the place from
whence it comes.

Natrum, a fait dug out of a pit or mine, near
Manfura in Egypt j it is by the inhabitants called
Natrum, being mixt with a Lapis Calcareus (Lime-
ftone) that ferments with vinegar, of a whitifli
brown colour. The Egyptians ufe it, (i.) to puc
into bread inftead of yeaft. (2.) To wafh linea
with it inllead of foap. I have been inform.ed,
that it is ufed with fuccefs in the tooth-ach, in the
manner following : The fait is powdered and put
into vinegar, it ferments immediately, and fubfides
to the bottotn. The mouth is wafhed with this
vinegar during the Paroxfym, by which the pain
is mitigated, but not taken off entirely.

T2 HISTORIA

^^6 THE NATURAL HISTORY

HISTORIA NATURALIS

PALiESTIN^,

THE NATURAL HISTORY
o F
PALESTINE.

I. JAFFA.

TOSCYAMUS aureus. Golden Hen-

bane.

Parietaria officinalis. Pellitory of the fliops.

iL^ycium fpinofum. Boxthorn. The Latin Monks
fay, that the crown of Chrift was made of this.

Euphorbia foliis oblongis lanceolatis vertiallatiSy
herbacca, inermis, pedaUs. This grows in hedges.

Buphthalmum foliis duplicato-pinnatis. Ox-eye.

Buphthalmum foliis oblongis laciniatis, laciniis
denticulatis cppofitis. Ox-eye.

Turritis caule ftmpliciufculo^ foliis radicalihus
longis lanceolatis laclniatis ; terminali maxima dentata.
Tower muftard.

Cnicus foment of us, foliis cordalis amplexicaulibus
^entatis integris. Thiftle.

Papaver Rhceas. Poppy.

Malva vulgaris. Mallow.

In hortis. In the gardens. *

Ficus Carica. The fig-tree.
Rofa damafcena. The damaflc rofe.
Terebinthus, The turpentine tree.

Sycomorus.

OF PALESTINE. 277

Sycomorus. The fycamore.

Citrus aurantia. The orange tree.

Amygdalus perfica. Peach tree.

Cannabis vulgaris. Hemp. A few of thelc
plants were growing in a garden being only ufed
by the Mahometans : they powder the leaves, and
make of them a Narcotick, which has the fame
effeds on them as opium. The Confe6lion is call-
ed Chafchis, and is much ufed by the Egyptians.

Animalia loci. The animals of the country.

Canis aureus. The Jackcal (Chical of the
Turks.) This is common in Egypt and the Eaiir,
but very numerous in Palefline. I faw many of
its caves and holes in the hedges round the gar-
dens. This is fatal to the herds and flocks of the
Arabians, and is therefore hunted continually, and
they often throw great numbers of them into the
fea. This is pad all doubt the Fox of Sampfon.
A fpecies of Muftela, which is very common in Pa*
leftine, efpecially during the vintage, and often
deftroys whole vineyards, and fields of Cucumbers.

Scarabseus dypeo pedihus anticis deniaiis^ on which
were found numbers of little Acari.

Chryfomela coccinea, elytrts thorace medio capitequet
nigrefcentibus.

11. A C R A.

Silene foUis ohovatis lanuginofis craffis fuculentis,
Vifcous Campion.

Plantago caule ramofo foliis integerrimis lineari
lanceolatis, ramis brachiatis^ /pica foliofa. Plantain.

1^2.^m\ys, /pica ovatc.^ comprejfa, arifia tertia Ion-
gjjfima intorta. Folia breviufcula lineari acuminata,
a caule diftantia, vaginantia. The Hares-tail
Grafs.

T 3 Phyfalis

I'j^ th£ natural history

Phyfalis Alkegengi ? Winter cherry. Folia
ovata integerrima lanuginofa. Caulis lanuginofus.
Filamenca non breviffima, fed longitudine lacini-
aram.

III. JERUSALEM. 1751. April 7th;

Feftuca ? Fefcue grafs. Pedaiis, foliis linearis
hits moliffimis.

This grows on the dry grounds round the
town, and is very grateful to Iheep and goats.

Sifymbrium foliis cordato-lanceolatis^ filiguis fe-
■'miuncialihiis longis pendulis^ pedunculis capiUaribus
hafi tenuiorihus. Water creffes.

Geranium calycibus fentaphyllis^ foliis cordato-
tvatis incifo crenatis. Crane's bill.

Geranium foliis compofitis : foliolis alternis pin-
natifidis. Calyx pentaphyllus. Crane's bill.

Cynoglofiuni foliis tuherculalis^ fcabris, hifpidis^
Hounds tongue.

Afperugo /(7//7j ovaiis. Great goofe grafs.

'L.a.imum foliis albis. Archangel.

Urtica pilulifera.. Nettles.

IV. Mount SIGN. April 8, 1751.

Ranunculus lanuginofus^ caule procumbente, foliis
quaternis^ foliolis pinnatifidis^ receptaculo ovato-acu^
minato. Crowfoot.

Betonica officinalis. Betony.

yizrxuh'mm fiorc purpurea. Hore hound.

Bifcutella filiquis orbiculatis didymis^ foliis rad't-
talibus lanceolatis dentatis lanuginofis. Buckler muf-
tard.

Tri folium mininmm montanum^ flore purpurea ,
Trefoil.

As

OF PALESTINE. 279

As this plant is here very fmall, one may fafely
conclude, that the foil is barren.

Thlafpi foi'tis lobato-laciniatis : laciniis ciliatis.
Treacle muftard.

Draba caule nudo^ foJiis lanceolatis integerrimh
■margine ciliatis. Whitlow grafs.

Anthemis^^r-Ufj, foliis pinnatis capillarihus, Ca-'
mo mile.

Feftuca? Fefcuc grafs. Spithamalis, foliis ca-
pillaribus. This grais grows in fand.

Hieracium montanum parvum. Hawkweed.

Buphthalmum parvum, foliis oblongis dentatis.
Ox-eye.

Draba ? foliis caulinis ovatis haft angufiatis mi--
mma. Whitlow grafs.

tj'

y. J E R I C H O. In the Vale near the Town.
April 1 2th.

Solanum fruiicofum quadripedaU caule & foliis
fpimjis. Night fhade.

Frutex foliis triangularihus fplendentihus^ This
plant is very common in all the defarts of Paleftine.

A(c\tp\2is fcandens fruticofa, foliis cordato acumina-
iis. Swallow- wort. This grows in the clayey
defart between Jericho and the dead iea.

Lichen lamellis convexis. Liverwort. This
grows on the furface of the earth.

Didynamica graveolens, petalis refexis, foliis
infcojis, radice fibrofa magna.

Allium Cepa. Onion. The Arabians call it
Bafal, It grows in the plains near the fea.

Tamarix. Tamarifk.

Kali fruticofum (Salfola fruticofa?) Glafswort.

'E.ncdifimpleicfruticofa. Heath.

T 4 Mimofa;

28o THE NATURAL HISTORY

Mimofa. Egyptian Acacia. SchiUa of tht Ht*
brews. 1 faw only one fhrub of this in the plain,
near the mountains of Arabia.

VI. The Road of St. J E R E M I A H, be-*

tween Jerufalem and Rama.

Terebinthus. Turpentine tree.
Vitex. Chafte tree
Tamarix. Tamaiilk.
Ceratonia. Carob.

Sycomorus^ only one tree at Rama. The fcrip^
ture fycamore.

Cynara. Artichoke.

Cicuta. Hemlock.

Cardui & Cnici, fix fpecies, Thiftles.

VII. At the SEALED Fountain of Solomow

near Bethlehem,

Columba Paleftinse. A dove.

Ran a corpore ovate, dorfo convexo, tota lucido-*
viridis. A frog,

Tenthredo fafciata, fafciis candidis atrifque.
Scarab^us Buphihalmi parvus^ ater lineis candidis*.

PLANTS,

Adianthum.^ Maiden^hair. ? .^ ^^^ ^^^j^

Hypnum minimum. j

Nafturtium aquaticum. (Sifymbrium.) Water
crelTes.

Achilleas afinis lutea.

Gram en panicuia arundinaceay radice lulhofa^
On the hills.

Anagyri^

OF PALESTINE. 281

Anagyris foetida. Stinking bean-trefoil. Upon
the hills.

Ocymum. Eafil.
Origanum, Wild Marjoram.

VIII. Mount THABOR.

Cynogloflum hifpidum. Hound's tongue.

Ononis foetida. Stinking Reft-harrow.

Papaver rhoeas. Poppy.

Papaver flore flavefcente parvo. Poppy.

Buphthalmum dentatum. Ox-eye.

Cynara. Artichoke.

Ruta. Rue.

Umbellata cum difco filamentofo.

Carduina caulo Jpinofo quadr angular u

Laferpitium latifolium. Laferwort.

Pimpinella officinalis. Burnet faxifrage

Trifolium, foUis ovato-lanceolatis^ fp^ca obhnga
Jaxa. Trefoil.

Syngenefifta cum pericarpiis confertis.

Quercus foliis dentato-aculeatis. Oak.

Ceratonia. Carob tree, or St. John's Bread.

Saivis varise Ipecies. Sage.

G\:2LmQX\ fecalinum radice bulboja,

Abfinthium romanum. (Artemifia.) Worm-
wood.

Hex. Holly. In the vallies.

Terebinthus. The turpentine-tree. On the
rocks.

Myrtus. Myrtle.

Scorzonera. Viper grafs.

Cichoreum Intybus. Succory.

Hedera helix. Ivy.

Cepa montana. Onion.

Avena montana. Oats.

DC. H

282 THE NATURAL HISTORY

IX. In Mount TEMPTATION.

Cepa montana. Onion.

Cordia febeften. Sebeften.

Ricinus Palma Chrifti.

Rhamnus fpina Chrifti. Buckthorn, called
Chrift's thorn.

Vitex agnus caftus. Chafte tree.

El^agnus. Wild olive j of this is made the oil
of Jericho.

Arbor magna^ florihus lonicera lahiatis JaciniatiSy
/Otis fanguineis. Foliis obverfe ovatis fucculentis
Jucido viridibus.

Ficus carica. The fig tree.

Euphorbia /<7//Vj terettbus fuccukntls. Spurge,

Ranunculus aquaticus luteus. Crowfoot.

Malva ruderum. Mallow.

Buphthalmum commune. Ox-eye.

Chenopodium ruderum. Goofe foot.

Hyftrix criftata. Porcupine.

Cimex aculeata^ later ibus abdominis valde •protU'"
IherantibuSi maculis ferrugineis.

X. Ax. the Fountain of SOLOMON near Tyre.

Salix fafsaf. Willow.
Vitex agnus caftus. Chafte tree.
Ricinus communis. Palma Chrifti.
Convolvulus foliis trinis. Bindweed.
Solanum foUis hirfutis. Anel el dib of the
Arabs. Night fliade.
Mercurialis. Mercury.
Parietaria. PelHtory.
Didynamicay flore minimo rubro bipedalis.

XI. The

OF PALESTINE. 285

XI. The HOT-BATHS of TIBERIAS.

1. ^he fountain, or fource of them. Is at the foot
of a mountain, at the diftance of a piftol-fhot from
lake Genazereth, and a quarter of a league from
the coafts of Tiberias,

2. The mountain con fids of a black and brittle
fulphureous ftone, which is only to be found
in large maffes in the neighbourhood of Tibe-
rias ; but in loofe flones aifo on the coafts
of the dead fea, as well as here at the lake Gena-t
zereth. They cut mill-ftones out of it in this
place, which are fent by water from Acra to Egypt.
I faw an incredible quantity of them at Damiata

3. The fpring which comes from the mountain,
is in diameter equal to that of a man's arm, and
there is one only.

4. The water is fo hot, that the hand may be
put into it without fcalding, but it cannot be
kept there long; confequently it is not boiling
hot, but the next degree to it.

5. It has a ftrong fulphureous fmell.

6. It taftes bitter, and fomewhat like common
fait.

7. The fedlment depofed by the water is black, as
thick as pafte, fmelis ftrong of falphur,and is cover-
ed with two fkins or cuticles, of which that beneath
is of a fihe dark green colour, and the uppermoft
of a light rufty colour ; at the mouth of the out-
let, where the water formed little cafcades over
the ftones, the firft mentioned cuticle alone was
found, and fo much refembled a conferva, that one
might eafily have taken this, that belongs to the
mineral kingdom, for a vegetable produdion ;
but nearer the river, where the water flood ftill,

one

«84 THE NATURAL HISTORY

one might fee both fkins, the yellow uppermofi:,
and under it the green. There was a miferablc
houfe with feats for bathing, built clofe by it ; but
it was not kept in repair, as no body here makes
any ufe of thefe gifts of nature.

XII. The DEAD SEA.

1. The foil is a crumbly clay, impregnated with
fait, and greatly refembles that of Egypt.

2. Quartz, to which adhered a cruft of fait.

3. Nodules of clay, which are round and corn-
pad. Thefe I faw in the clay near the coaft.

4. Schiftus. Slate refembling flint, fcattered
here and there on the banks.

5. Perpendicular layers of a lamellated brown,
clay, in the common clay on the banks. Is this
imperfed flate ?

6. No rufh or reed.

7. No plants near the (hore. A ftinklng plant
^ich a labiated flower, at fome dift:ance -, and a
plant of a fait tafte, in the plain.

8. The Afphaltes is gathered by the Arabs in
confiderable quantities every autumn on the fhore,
where it is thrown. It is carried to Damiata, and
there fold for dying wool.

9. Shell fi{h were common on the (hore.

10. The Arabs fay, there are no fifliin this fea ;
however, I doubt the truth of this, as there are
fhell fifh.

I J. No navigation.

12. The neighbouring mountains are compofed
of a foft calcareous ftone, and appear to be tormed
by this fea, which has gradually decreafed.

13. The (late feen in the mountains has been
Afphaltes, now changed into flate.

14. The

OF PALESTINE. i^s

14. The hardnefs of the remote mountains.

15. The Afphaltes appears like the balfam of
mummies (Balfam. mumiarum), and is the fame
fubftance j has there ever been a lake in Egypt im-
pregnated with this matter ?

16. The petrefadions on the oppofite fhore arc
the fame now as thofe in the dry lakes of Egypt.

17. Poma'fodomitka, Mad apples, are the fruit
of Splanum Melongena.

PLANTS,

286 THE NATURAL HISTORY

«^" " ■■l^i.«.Hl .r I I III I I I IL»I »l..^ I, .1 II ■■illl Mil I I Irf

"'''■' ■ ' " ■ ' ■ ■ 0

PLANTS, ANIMALS, &c.

Mentioned In the S c r i p t u r e s.

CU C U M I S melo. Melon. Arab. Kaun.
Cucurbita citruUus. Water melon. Arab.
Battech. Syriacis jabbas.

Cucumis fativus. Cucumbers. Arab, chiar.

Cucurbita lagenaria. Gourd. Arab, charrak.

Braflica fativa. Cabbage. Arab, krump. Sy-
riac. malfuf.

Cucumis colocynthis. Bitter apple. Arab*
Handal.

Momordica balfamina. Male balfam apple'
Balfamita.

Momordica elaterium. Spirting cucumber. By
the Syrians called adjur el hemar, i. e. Afles cu-
cumber. Thefe names may be compared with
the Hebrew, to explain the fcnptures, where men-
tion is made of the cucumbers of Egypt.

Luke xvii. ver. 6. o-uxa/^/j/or. Chrift certainly
meant the Sycamore of the Ancients, and Pharaoh's
fig-tree of the Egyptians, which the Arabians call
Guimez, when he pointed to a large tree, which
he faid the difciples might, by faith, remove into
the fea ; for fuch there are now in Judsea and
Galilee, where Chrift then was, fee ver. ii. of
the fame chapter. Luther, therefore, tranflated
it very badly in calling it a mulberry- tree, which
is neither congruent with fcripture nor natural
hiftory.

Luke

OF T PIE SCRIPTURES. 287

Luke xix. ver. 4. o-vyLo^ovpia. The tree on
which little Zachsus climbed near Jericho, to fee
Chrift pafs. The Greek text fhews it was a fyca-
more ; therefore the Roman Catholicks, Greeks
and Armenians are led into an error, when they
vifit tlie holy places, for they are fhswn a tree of
a different genus, and contend that it was on one
of thofe Zachsus climbed. This is a-kin to the
prunus, (plumb-tree) and has oval leaves, &c.
an Eleagnus ? (wild olive ?) it grows in the
plains near the ruins of Jericho ; from this fruir,
the Arabs extract an oil, which they fell to travel-
lers, who keep it amongft their other holy things,
and pretend it polTeires a fmgular virtue in curing
wounds, for which reafon, they call it the Oil of
Zachaus^ attributing its virtue to the ftay Zach^us
made on the tree. Of theftone of the fruit, which
is of an oval form, with four ridges, and almoft the
fize of a walnut, the Latin monks make beads,
which they fend to Europe as being of great value.
I have before obferved, that Luther interpreted
this paflTage very badly, when he called the tree
a mulberry-tree ; for the mulberry-tree is not, at
prefent, found growing naturally in the territory
of the town of Jericho, where the affair hap-
pened, and much lefs is it cultivated there at this
time, as it fcarcely ever grew in Judsea, very little
in Galilee, but in abundance in Syria and Mount
liibanon : neither did I fee the Sycamore growing
near Jericho, but it is probable it grew there for-
merly, being to this day found in Judsea, and
was once doubtlefs very common, as it is men-
tioned fo often in the Scriptures.

Poma fodomitica^ or mad apples, are the fruit of
Solanum Melongena Linnsei, by other authors

called

283 THE NATURAL HISTORY

called mala infana ; thefe I found in plenty abouC
Jericho, in the vales near Jordan, not far fromt
the Dead Sea. It is truCj they are fometimes
filled with a duft, yet this is not always the cafe,
but only when the fruit is attacked by an infedt
itenthredo) which turns all the infide into duft,
leaving the Ikin only entire, and of a beautiful
colour.

Nux Behen. Balfamum Aaraonis*

The oil of behen, which emits no fcent or fmell aC
all, is very proper for preparing odoriferous oint-
ments and balfams. On this account it is much
ufed by the inhabitants of the Eaft, who lay flow-
ers of jefTamine, narcilTus, 8^c. in this oil, and
thus make an odoriferous ointment, which thofe
who love perfumes apply to the head, nofe and
beard. And this is undoubtedly that with which.
Aaron, as is faid in the Scriptures, ufed to anoint
the head, and David fo much praifed on account of
its agreeable fcent.

This tree grows in Mount Sinai and Upper
Egypt. The Arabians call it feftuck el Ban.

Rhamnus fpina Chrifti. The Egyptian buck-
thorn.

QEnoplia fpinofa, Cafpar Bauhin. 477.
lN2Lbcd.Paliurus athenai, Alpin. iEgypt. i6. 19.

The Naba or Nabka of the Arabians.

In all probability this is the tree which afforded
the crown of thorns put on the head of Chrift ; it
grows very common in the Eaft. This plant was
very fit for the purpofe, for it has many fmall

and

OF THE SCRIPTURES. 289

and fharp fpines, which are well adapted to give
pain i the crown mighc be eafily made of thefe
foft, round, and pliant branches, and what in my
opinion feems to be the greated proof, is, that the
leaves much refemble thoie of ivy, as they are of
a very deep green. Perhaps the enemies of
Chriil, would have a plant fomewhat refembling
that, with which emperors and generals were ufed.
to be crowned, that there might be calumny even
in the punifhment.

Spinse Biblicse. Of Thorns mentioned in the
Scriptures.

We know very few of the Thorns which are
mentioned in the Scriptures, The reft-harrow,
(Ononis fpinofa) that moft pernicious and prickly
plant, covers entire fields and plains in Egypt and
Paleftlne. I make no doubt, but this is referred
to in fome parts of the holy Scripture ; I Ihall
leave Philologifts to determine which of the
Thorns there mentioned it is. The Arabians, at
prefent in Egypt, call it akol. This is, perhaps,
that which Mofes means when he curies the earth;
it grows in great plenty, promiifcuoufly with the
large thiilles, in the uncultivated parts of Egypt.

Labrufca. Of the wild Grapes of the Scriptures.

Ifaiah in chap, v. ver. 4. fayeth : PVhat could
have been done more to my vineyard, that I have not
done in it ; wherefore when I looh:d that it jhotild
bring forth grapes, brought it forth wild grapes ? I
am inclined to believe, that the Prophet here
means the hoary nighilliade (Solanum mcanum)
becaufe it is common in Egypt, Paleftine, and the
Eaft, and the Arabian name agrees well v/ith it.

U The

^o THE NATURAL HISTORY

The Arabs call it aneb el dih, i. e. wolf-grapes,
The Prophet could not have found a plant more
oppofite to the vine than this, for it grows much
in the vineyards, and is very pernicious to them,
wherefore they root it out ; it likewife refembles
a vine by its Ihrubby ftalk.

Of the Onions of the Ifraelites.

Allium cepa, Onion ; by the Arabs called Bafal.
That this was one of the fpecies of Onions, for
which the Ifraelites longed, we may guefs by the
quantity to this day ufed in Egypt, and by their
goodnefs there -, whoever has tafted Onions in Egypt,
muft allow, that none can be had better in any
part in the univerfe : here they are fweet, in other
countries they are naufeous and ftrong ; here they
are foft, whereas in the North and other parts they
are hard, and the coats fo compad, that they are
hard of digeilion. Hence they cannot in any place
be eaten with Jefs prejudice, and more fatisfaftion,
than in Egypt. The juft longing of the Ifraelites
teaches us, that they were introduced into the kit-
chen, about the time they left Egypt. They eat
them roafted, cut into four pieces, with fome bits
of roafted meat, which the Turks, in Egypt, call
kehah', and with this difh they are fo delighted,
that 1 have heard them wifh they might enjoy it
in Paradife. They likewife make a foup of them
in Egypt, cutting the Onions in fmall pieces ; this
I think one of the belt difhes I ever eat.

Allium fativum. Linnasi. Garlick.

Is by the Arabians called Turn. This is alfo
much ufed; but I am inclined to think, it was
not known to the Ifraelites, as it does not grow in

OF THE SCRIPTURES. 291

Egypt, but is brought hither from the idands in
Archipelago.

Allium 'porrum. Linn^i. Leeks. Karratdfthe
Arabians.

This was certainly one of thofe defired by the
Children oflfrael, as it has been cultivated from
the earlieft times to the prefect in Egypt.
The feafons for this, are the winter and fpring
months : the inhabitants are very fond of it,
eating it raw as fauce for their roaft meat -, the
poor people eat it raw with bread, efpecially for
breakfaft, ufing the earth for a table, and v/ould
fcarcely exchange their leeks and a bit of bread
for a royal dinner.

Leo. The Lion. The Arabs call this Animal
Sabbe.

This is not met with in Syria or Palefline -, but in
great numbers at Babylon, now Bagdad). It is not
an inhabitant of Egypt, unlefs it be on the confines
of Lybia, coming from the inland parts of Africa.
How is this confident with the Bible, where the
Lion is mentioned as an animal common to Palef-
tine and Syria, efpecially in the hiilory of Samp-
fon ? Where did the fight between Sampfon and
the lion happen ?

Locultse Johannis. St. John's Locufts.
Of thefe I have already treated.

Petra Mofis.

The Rock which Mofes broke by a miracle,
Exod, xvii. 6. and out of which he made the

U 2 tables

292 THE NATURAL HISTORY,&c.

tables for the Ten Commandments, was a faxum
miLacco fpatofum particulis qaartzofis paucioribus,
in plain terms, a granite, of which Mount Hereby
v^here the miracle happened, confifts, as does
IN'^iount Sinai^ where the tables were formed.
Mofes had learned the ufe of this ftone, for in-
fcribing letters and figures, from the Egyptians,
as i.i Egypt hieroglyphick obelifks are made of
the fame tioiie, and are miracles of art.

When the Aiabians intend todefcribea beauty,
they make ufe of feveral fimilitudes. The y com-
pare her face to the moon, &c. ^c. Amongft
others, the mofl remarkable and common expref-
fion of this kind is, when they compare the eyes
of a beauty to the eyes of a rock goat, (C^pra
cervicapra, Linnsei) which is a common animal
in Syria and Egypt. I think this comparifon re-
markable, becaufe Solomon in his Canticles ufes
comparjfons, which are takenfrom the fame animal;
let us compare the Hebrew text to explain his mean-
ing. We have therefore no reafon to doubt, but
that the Doe of Solomon was this Rock goat. The
beauty of the animal, its being common in the
countries where Solomon wrote his books, and
finally, the cuftom, which has continued to this
day, and is the fame with that of Solomon, are
all circumftances which help to confirm us in this
opinion.

MATERIA

MATERIA MEDIC A. 293

MATERIA MEDIC A.

The Defcription of the true Balfam of Mecc-a.

IT is of a yellow colour, and pellucid. It has a
moll fragrant fmell, which is refinous, bal-
famick, and very agreeable. It is very tena-
cious or glutinous, (ticking to the fingers, and
may be diawn into long threads. It fcarcely ever
becomes fluid or liquid by the heat of the fun in
Natolia.

I HAVE feen it at a Turkifh furgeon's, who had
it immediately from Mecca, defcribed it, and was
informed of its virtues, which are : firft, that it is
the beft fiomachick they know, if taken to three
grains, toftrengthen a weak ftomach-, fecondly, that
it is a mod excellent and capital remedy for curing
wounds i for if a few drops of it are applied to
the frefh wound, it cures it in a very fhort time.

An Experiment to know whether the Balfam of
Mecca be true and not adulterated.

A DROP of the Balfam is dropt into a glafs of
clear and frefh fpring water; if this drop remains
in one place on the furface of the water, the Bal-
fam is of little value ; but if it inilantly extends
itleif like a fkin or pellicle, over the whole furface,
and with a hair, filk or thread, this fkin may be
taken ofFthe water, which mull afterwards be as

U 3 clear

294 MATERIA MEDIC A.

clear as at firft, it is a fign that the Balfam is of the
belt kind, and riot adulterated. It is admitted,
even by the Turks, that it is very difficult to find
Balfam which will ftand this proofs for the true
Balfam of Mecra is fcarcely to be found any where
but in the poffeffion of the Turkifh Emperor and
the grandees of the kingdom, who get it as a
valuable prefent from fome traveller who hath been
at Mecca. In order to make fure of getting this
valuable drug unadulterated, it is neceffary either by
friendfhip or money, at the time the caravan goes to
Mecca, to gain the intereftof a Turk, who will pro-
cure it genuine from the firft hand, and then we may
be affured of its goodnefs, and that it poffelTes
the excellent virtues, which the innumerable ex-
periments made by the inhabitants of the Eaft:
confirm.

The 2oth of June, I went round the city of
Cairo to enquire for Balfam of Mecca, with an
intention to buy fome, if I could get any that was
good. I faw the manner in vv'hich an Italian
merchant, who had been thirty years at Cairo,
tried it, it was as follows : He dropped fome drops
of the Balfam into a little China cup, filled with
clear cold water ; if thefe immediately exten-
ded themfelves in a fkin, and this flun was even
and clear, and entirely free from bubbles, he
pronounced the Balfam good 5 but if it was fome
time before they fpread over the water, and the
Ikin v/as dirty, and had feveral bubbles or air
bladders, it was a fure fign that the Balfam was
adulterated and mixed with other things. If the
Ikin can be gathered and wound up on a little
ftraw, without breaking or leaving any oil on the
water, it was likewife good •, and on the contrary,
if the Hiin cannot, be gathered, but breaks into

feveral

MATERIA MEDIC A. 295

feveral pieces, and leaves on the water fome oily
colour, red particles, we may fafely conclude, that
the Balfam is adulterated. , I faw experiments
made, both of the true and adulterated, and
found them well grounded. The bubbles in the
firft experiment, and the breaking or dividing of
the fl^in in the fecond, are owing to the extra-
neous particles with which the Balfam has been
adulterated. The drugs ufed to adulterate the
Balfam, or to encreafe it in bulk, but diminifli its
virtues, are oil of (Sefamum) oily grain, which is
extracted in large quantities in Egypt ; Cyprus
turpentine and the fat of oftriches -, thefe are not
all mixed with it at one time, but according to
the convenience of the feller ; and in this manner,
almoft all the Balfam expofed for fale is adulter-
ated, even in the place whence it is firll brought.

None of thofe v/ho have wrote on the Balfam
of Mecca, have been acquainted with the place
whence it is brought. Every body knows, that
it comes from Mecca, and I believe imagine, that
it grows fomewhere near that place. We have
even travels and hillories informing us of the
gardens round Mecca, in which this tree is plant-
ed and carefully cultivated, of the prerogative the
Turkifh Emperor enjoys, to preferve the bell for
himfelf, of the guard the Turks conftantly keep
that none of the trees may be carried thence. This
flory has been hitherto believed juft as it was re-
prefented by the firft relator, who told us this,
that he might not be thought intirely ignorant of
the matter. It would be worth while to make a
journey to the place where this tree grows, in or-
der to obtain a true hiftory of it •, but this cannot
be done by a Chriftian ; we muft therefore truft
to the informations we can get from fuch as are
U 4 permitted

296 MATERIA ME Die a;

permitted to fee thofe places, and believe the molt
credible of them. I have afked creditable perfons^
who hid been in Pvlecca, concerning this affair,
and in particular, an Aga of the Caftle at Roferta,
and a Scheck in Cairo; the former in the prefence
of Mr. Chabert, a French merchant in Rofetta,
and the latter through Mr. Le Grand, the French
Interpreter in Cairo. They both gave me a very
different account of the place where the Balfam-
tree grows, from that which I had read before in
books. They affured me, that the Balfam-tree is
as little known at Mecca, as in Egypt and Turkey,
and that not a drop of Balfam is gathered within
many miles of Mecca. The place whence the
Balfam is brought, lies many day's journey from
Mecca, and in Petrea Arabia. There the trees
grow in the mountains, and are poffcffed as a va-
luable treafure by certain Arabian families. The
Arabians carry ihe Balfam to Mecca, and there
fell it during the time the Caravan from Egypt
and Turkey tarries there ; by the Caravan it is
carried to Damafcus and Cairo, thence through
all Turkey, and farther if poffible, hut this is
fcarcely credible, as very little of the genuine
Balfam comes to Mecca. The I'urkiffi Emperor
enjoys no privileges, by which he may refeive the
beft for himfelf ; the Arabians are an independant
and free people, they fell their commodity to
■whom they pleafe. The Sultan orders fome con-
fiderable man at Mecca, as the firfl: Scheck, or
fome other, to buy a certain quantity of it yearly
on his account, and therefore is fure to tiave it
good. I have been affured, by thofe who have
been in Arabia and feen the tree, that its leaves
refemble thofe of Myrtle^ but are a little larger.
By the informations which I could obiain, I have

reafon

MATERIA MEDIC A. 297

reafon to believe, that Dr. Linnseus rightly gueflf-
ed that the tree is a Pijiacia^ or neareft a-kin to it,
and therefore clofely allied to the Majlich and 2«r-
pentine trees *.

Mastix, by the modern Greeks called jaapxa;
comes in large quantities from Scio, and is much
ufed by the Turks •, for the wives of the Turks
in particular, the Sultan's and Grandees's, chew
it conftantly, to keep their teeth white and clean,
and their breach fweet.

Olibanum. Frankincenfe.

This is colledled in both the Arabia's, whence
it is brought to Giedda, which is the harbour of
Mecca, thence over the Red Sea to Suez, a harbour
in Egypt, and fo to Cairo in confiderable quan-
tities; ic is likewife brought from Mecca over
land, by the Caravan. When it is brought over,
it is fo full of finall ftones of Spar and Mica, than
150 lb. will not yield above from 50 to 70 lb. of
clean and pure Frankincenfe. Thegreatefl: part
is carried to Marfeiiles, whence it is by the Dutch
carried to Mufcovy where the greateft part of it is
ufed in making the Ruffian leather ; a large quan-
tity is iikewife burnt by the Mufcovites and Roman
Catholics in their churches. It differs greatly both
in price and goodnefs, iiolb. falling from 9 to
23 Piaflrers, (each Piafler at 60 Medins) accord-
ing to the goodnefs of it. The beft is in tears,
ot a fragrant fmel], pellucid, and of a yellowifh

* ProfefTor Linnsens in a letter dated Upfala, Feb. 12th,
1765. to Jchn Ellis, Efq; F. R. S. fays, that the late Dr. For-
ikohl fent him a fpecimen of the Balfam of Mecca tree, by
u'hich it appears to be a fpecies of Amyris. N. B. Several
fpecks of this genus grow in Jamaica.

white

«98 MATERIA MEDIC A.

white colour, brittle and eafily pulverized ; of this
very little is to be found in large quantities in the
common Frankincenfe, and is not to be feparated
from it, unlefs it be particularly defired for the
Apothecaries Ihops.

An Example of the nutritive Virtue of Gum
Arabic.

The Abyfllnians make a journey to Cairo eve-
ry year, to fell the products of their country:
Slaves, Gold, Elephants, Brags, Monkeys, Parrots^
&c. They muft travel over terrible defarts, and
their journey depends as much on the weather as a
voyage at fea, confequently they know as little
as a feaman how long they muft be on the journey,
and the neceffaries of life may chance to fail them,
■when the journey lafts too long. This happened
to the Abyfiinian Caravan in the year 1750, their
provifions being confumed, when they had ftill
two months to travel ; neceflity obliges us often to
wfe things for food before unheard or untliought
of', this happened in the cafe in queftion ; they
were obliged to fearch for fomething amongft their
merchandize, wherewith they might fupport life in
this extremity, and found nothing more proper
than Gum Arabic, of which they had carried a
confiderable quantity with them. This ferved to
fupport above loooperfons for two months.

Gum Arabic is gelatinous, and undoubtedly con-
tains feme nourifhing particles. But here we may
afk. Whether this food did not make thefe poor
people very coftive ? It mufl. in all probability have
had this effeft, but of this I could not learn any
circumftances. I know however, that the Cara-
van

MATERIA MEDIC A, 299

van arrived fafe at Cairo, without any great lofs
of people either by hunger or difeafes.

Opium. We are told that the Turks formerly
confumed large quantities of this drug, at prefent
it is ufed by very few, and fcarcely by any, except
thofe who ftridly follow the laws of Mahomed,
and therefore abftain from wine, and all other
fpirituous liquors. Bat there are very few at this
time who obferve them fo ftridly, efpecially a- -
mongft the vulgar •, perhaps there were formerly
more, and then it is poffible Opium was more
frequently ufed ; fuch as now make ufe of Opium
have a trembhng of the nerves, are (leepy, and be-
come very weak, therefore the Turks, who fee
this, with great reafon, leave off a cuilom fo evi-
dently deftrudive.

Caflia Fiftula.
I'he manner of "preparing it in Egypt,

The Pods are coUeded before they are quite
ripe, and carried into a very clofe room in which
has been previoufly prepared a bed of palm leaves
and ftraw fix inches thick, on this they lay the
Pods in a heap. The door is then clofely fhut, and
the next day they fprinkle water on the heap,
which is repeated the day following; thus they
lay heaped for forty days, 'till they become black,
Odiers dig a hole in the ground to put them in,
but this method is much inferior to the former.

Scammonium. Scammony.

The beft Scammony in the world is brought
from Marafch^ the refidence of a Balhaw, about
four days journey from Aleppo, near the confines

, of

Soo MATERIA M E D I C A.

of Armenia. It is thence brought to Aleppo in
fmall Ikins, and by the merchants fen t to London
and Marfeilles, It was formerly, to be had very
good from Mount Carmel^ by way of Acra, buC
at prefent, fcarcely any comes from that place, as
the Arabian inhabitants of the mountain have
negkfted to gather it, being more addided to
plunder than labour. I have feen the C'lnvolvulus^
from whicli it is taken, grow wild in the vales
between Nazareth and Mount Carmel.

Schoenanthus Officinalis. Camel's Hay.

This grows plentifully in the defarts of both the
Arabias ; it is gathered near Ltmbo^ a port in Ara-
bia Pe rea, and exported to Egypt. The Venetians
buy it in Egypt, as it enters the compofition of
the Venice treacle This was undoubtedly one of
the precious, aromatic and fweet plants which
Queen Sheba gave to Solomon, being to this day
much efteemed by the Arabians for its fweer fmelL

They call it Helfi Meccavi, and Idhir Mecchi,

Senna.

All the Senna grov/s wild in upper Egypt. It
is gathered by the Bedovines or Arabian Peafants,
who fell it to their Scheick or Headman. When
he has collecled a large quantity he carries it to
Cairo, where he felh ic to a particular Perfon, who
rents the privilege of felling this drug to the Eu-
ropeans, from the corps of Janiffaries at Cairo,
who difpofe of it to the bed advantage. At pre-
fent Ibraim Kisefa, the powerful Governor and
Ufurper over Egypt, has afilimed this privilege,
and rented it to two Jews, who were likewife

farmers

MATERIA MEDIC A. 301

farmers of the cuftoms. Of thefe the Europeans
buy yearly as much as they wane. But it is not
every European that can buy, nor can any nation
purchafe what quantity it thinks proper. They
are obliged to make three lots, one for Mar[eilles^
another for Leghorn^ and a third for Venice^ and
each lot is to be purchafed by one merchant. Senna
therefore is a commodity which, next to Nutmeg
and Cinnamon, of whioh the Dutch are the foie
polTefTors, is more monopoiized than any other.
The Egyptians may alfo fct what value they pleafe
on this drug, as it is wanted in all parts of the
world, and grows no where fo good as here. They
fend to Marfeiiles yearly 600 Boats, each con-
taining 10 Quintals, each Quintal at 20 Sequins,
more or lefs ; a Sequin confills of 1 100 Medins.

Myrobalani Officinales.

The writers on Materia Medica know very lit-
tle of the Myrobalans, which are but little uied at
prefent, and fiiould not obtain a place in the (hops.
But they are fcill in ufe with the Egyptians and
Arabians, who drink the decoftion of all the My-
robalans as a purge, efpecialiy in Upper Egypt.
This medicine operates as a corroborant as well as
a cathartic, and might therefore anfwer very well
as a fuccedaneum for rhubarb, when this laft can-
not be had •, but it is of no value as long as we
can have rhubarb. The Arabian Phyficians fir(t
introduced the Myrobalans, which at prefent are
only ufed by them and their countrymen. Bota-
nifis know ftill lefs of this fruit, which grows in
India near Malabar, and on the confines of Ben-
gal ; whence it is brought with other fimples to
Mecca, and over the Red Sea to Cairo. A tree

of

502 MATERIA MEDIC a;

of Myrobalans was feen at Farfchut, a town in
Upper Egypt, fubjed to an Arabian Prince, by
Jeremias Kerner, a Silefian (iVlifTionary from the
Society to prop{!gate Ch iilian Knowledge) who
afferts, that alJ the Myrobalans are taken from
the fame tree, but do not ripen at one time-, and
fays, that the inhabitants are very careful to dif-
tinguilh one from the other, and gather the ripe
ones, without mixing or confounding them with
the others, giving them different names according
to their qualities, Chaheli^ Ajphar Bellili^ Embliliy
Hendi^ Chejri. I ordered a perfon to bring me one
of thefe trees from Upper Egypt, but I could not
get it before I left Egypt.

Spica Celtica. The Celtic Spiknard.

The Spiknard is much more ufed by the Peo-
ple of Inner Africa, Abyfllnia, and ^Ethiopia, than
by us ; and in fuch quantities, that there are year-
ly 60 tons imported by way of Venice into Egypt
from Germany, each ton is by the Ethiopian
merchants bought for near 100 rixdollars. They
make an ointment of it, which they ufe to keep
the fkin foft in their fcorching climate, and to
make it Jhine, for in this they think confifts its
greateft beauty.

Mumia Mineralis.

This is a bituminous, fhining, brittle, black,
and almoft inodorous mafs, which is brought
from Perfia. It is exceffively dear, for one dram
of it cofts from 2 to 4 and 5 Sequins in Egypt,
according to its fcarcity and goodnefs ■, it is much
dearer than Amber, wherefore the Grandees of
Egypt and Turkey preferve it among their other

rarities J

MATERIA MEDIC A. so|

rarities ; thefe are : Amber, the true Bezoar ftone,
the horn of the Rhinoceros, particularly veffels
made of it, out of which they drink water ; ali
thefe are with them of the fame value, as precious
ftones and jewels, and they preferve them as care-
"fuliy. The Ambergris {ambra grifea) they offer
to the Goddefs of Beauty, whom thefe people ve-
nerate to the higheft degree -, the Bezoar ftone
and Rhinoceros horn, are both ufed as alexiphar-
mics, fudorifics, and againft poifon, for which
reafon they preferve them as their tutelar Gods,
againft that kind of Death, to which the Gran-
dees are fo much fubjeft, and therefore live ia
conftant fear. But this Mumia Mineralis, they
fay, is a great vulnerary. If experience con-
firms the accounts the Egyptians give of it, it is
certainly the greateft remedy hitherto known
for curing wounds. They make an ointment of
the Mumia Mineralis pulverized and mixed with,
fweet oil ; break the leg of a hen, anoint it with
this ointment and tie it up, if the Mummy
is genuine, the leg is cured within three hourd ;
and this is the method they ufe to try whe-
ther the Mummy is good; but if the leg is not
cured Vv'ithin the time mentioned, they reject it as
of no value. They fay, that the leg of a man is
cured within twenty four hours, if this remedy is
applied. I have myfelf feen and defcribed the
Mummy, but have not been an eye-witnefs of
its efficacy, as it is very dear and fcarce : but fe-
veral furgeons in Cairo afferted the truth of it, and
told me, they had feen and admired the experi-
ment; thefe were men of probity and veracity.
It is certainly a fpecies of bitumen, but I am noc
able to fay, whether it is any of thofe hitherto
known, if not the firft in Linnseis's fyftem of na-

turci.

504 MATERIA MEDIC A.

ture, which is the fame as the Naphta of authors,"
hardened by the heat of the fun. The Egyptians
call it, Mumia MineraUs,ixo\r\ the exaft refemblance
it bears to the mafs, which is taken out of the
lliull of the Mummies in Egypt.

Unguentum Mumias. Ointment of Mumy.

The Egyptians make an unguentum potabile,
or liquid ointment of Mumy, by mixing the
powder of Mumy with butter, which they call
Manteg^ this they take inwardly when they are
wounded. A credible perfon in Alexandria af-
fured me, that he faw a Moor perfedlly cured in a
ihorc time, without having ufed or applied any
other medicine, of a wound in the fide, between
the ribs, made with a knife, which had pierced
the mufculos intercoftales -, this man immediately
drank a dofe of this ointment, about Ibij, and
likewife anointed the wound with fome of it.
The Egyptians ufe it alfo frequently for their
cattle, camels, affes, fheep, oxen, &c. &c. both
inwardly and outwardly, for wounds, fraftures,
againft witchcraft, which they believe can hurt
their cattle, and almofl in all difeafes with which
their cattle are afflided.

The method of making Sal Ammoniac in Egypt.

Sal Ammoniac is made from the foot arifing
from the burnt dung of four-footed animals, that
feed only on vegetables, and of human excrements.

This dung is collefted in the four firll months
of the year, when all their cattle, fuch as oxen,
cows, buffaloes, camels, Iheep, goats, horfes and
afles, feed on frefh fpring grafs, which in Egypt,

is

MATERIA MEDICA; 30$

Is a kind of trefoil or clover : for when they are
obliged to feed their cattle on hay, and their
camels on bruifed date kernels, their excrements
are not fit for this purpofe ; but when they feed
on grafs, the poor people of Egypt are very care-
ful in coile6ling the dung quite frefti, and for
that purpofe follow the cattle all day long ; if it
is too moift, they mix it with chaff, ftubble, (hort
ftraw, or dufl, and make it up in the form of cakes;
then they lay it on a wall to dry, till it is fit to be
burnt.

For want of wood, which none but the rich in
Egypt can afford to buy, they burn this dung
through the whole country, and fell a vaft quan-
tity of foot to the fak-makers. If the country
wanted this dung for manure, it would be bad
ceconomy •, but as nature has provided Egypt with
manure of a quite different nature, viz. the mud
depofited by the Nile when it overflows the coun-
try, the inhabitants are much to be commended
for applying the dung to another ufe.

The excrements of the camel are not found at
all preferable to any other, and its urine is never
ufed for this purpofe, although generally reported
fo by authors.

The fait workers pretend, that the human ex-
crements, and thofe of goats and Iheep, are pre-
ferable to any other. In the months of March
and April only they make the fait.

The village Giza, which is fituated at a fmall
diftance from Cairo, is the only place near that
city where they make this fait. There is no ma-
nufadlory of it in Cairo ; but there are numbers
in the ifland Delia,

A PERSON who pofTefTes a village, in which there
is a fait manufadorv, lets his peafants work it,

X for

So6 MATERIA ME Die A;

for there is no great art in it. Thofe who work
at it are miferable wretches ; as indeed are all the
common people in Egypt. The foot, and every
thing elfe requifite for making the fait, is weighed
to them, and they are obliged to deliver fait in
proportion, by which they cannot wrong their
mafters of an ounce. I fhall now defcribe the
method of making it, which, though it is very
fimple, has puzzled many chemifts. I doubt not
butchemifts may invent fome better method, for
this is very fimple. They build an oblong oven,
about as long again as broad, of brick and moift
dung i of fuch a fize, that the outfide, or flat pare
of the top of the arch, may hold fifty glafs vefTels,
ten in length and five in breadth, each veflfel having
a cavity left for it in the brick work of the arch.
Thefe glafs vefTels are globular, with a neck an
inch long, and two inches wide. They are of
various fizes, in different fait works, containing
from a gallon to two gallons 5 but in general, are
but eighteen inches diameter. They coat each
vefl'el over with a fine clay, (which they find in
the Nile) and afterwards with ftraw ; they then
fiill them two-thirds full of foot, and put them into
their holes on the top of the oven.

They make the fire gentle at firft, ufing the
above-mentioned dried dung for the fuel ; they
incrcafe the heat gradually, till they bring it to
the higheft degree, which the workmen call hell-
fire, and continue it fo for three days and three
nights together. When the heat is come to its
due degree, the fmoke fhews itfelf, with a fourifh
fmell, that is not unpleafant ; and in a little time,
the fait flicks to the glaffes, and covers the whole
aperture. The fait continues fubliming till the
above time is expired j then they break the glafies,

and

MATERIA MEDIC A. 507

and take out the fait, juft in the fame form*
and of the fame fubftancC) as it is fent over all
Europe.

At each falt-work they have a glafs furnace^
to melt the old glalTes and make new ones*

The ingredients for the fine works, which are
made in France and Germany, of Papief
Machee, as fnuff- boxes, heads for canes, &c.

5^ IchtyocolU Ibij.
Minii rubri ^ij.
Lithargyrii aurei ^iij.
Cerujfa f ifs.
Ele3iri ^viij.
Terra TripoIUana Ibj .

01. Lib. Ibiv.
Terra Umbra ^iv.
Vitriol, alb. f iv.
Colophonii ^iij.
Spirit. Therebinth Ibj,

X 2

MEDIC a;

380 MEDIC a;

M E D I C A.

Of Difeafes, and their Remedies,

1. Peftis. The Plague.

2. Febris damiatse. The Fever of Damiata.

3. Synocha. Fevers.

4. Tertiana. The Ague.

5. Cephalalgia. The Head ach.

6. Colica. The Cholick.

7. Calculus. The Gravel.

8. Afthma. Afthma.

9. Hyfteria. Hyfterics.

10. Imaginatio. Of the force of Imagination;

11. Taenia. The Tape worm.

12. Ophthalmia. Difeafes of the eyes.

13. Siphilis. The Venereal difeafe.

14. Herpes Aleppica.

15. Hernia. Ruptures,

16. Scerilitas. Barrennefs.

17. Puerperia. Of Child-bearings

18. Excreta.

I. Peftis. The Plague.

I HAD a converfation with apraditioner in phy-
fick at Smyrna, and was folicitous to know
whether he had made any obfervations on this
diftemper, in a place where it often rages. He
anfwered me, that neither he nor his collegues
knew any thing of it, as they are clofely confined,
and kept from all communication with thole af-

flided

MEDIC A. 3St

Aided with the Plague. For no Phyfician can
fuccour thefe wretches, unlefs he will fhut himfelf
out from all company, and perhaps afterwards
be condemned to fhui himfelf up in his houfe for
forty days, and perform quarantine.

He had, however, an opportunity privately to
vifit a patient afflifted with the plague, and ob-
ferved that his eyes watered {lacrymatio oculorum)
and his tongue was covered with white puftules.

The famous Count Bonnevall, difcovered a
powder againft the Plague, which had a furprifing
effed: ; and he proved, that fcarce lo of loo died,
of thofe who ufed this powder. I have been in-
formed, that there is a French furgeon, now in
Conftantinople, who knows how to prepare this
powder.

2. IB ebxh maligna Damtat a Jingularis. The Fever
of Damiata.

This rages during the winter, but more in the
fpring, with a quick and high pulfe, great heat,
violent thirft, dry and clammy tongue, inflamed
eyes ; it ends in two or four days, with a red
tumor and ftupor on one fide, but particularly the
arm, foot and leg on that fide fwelled, are very
red and painful i before this crifis, they perceive
fome ferum to flu6tuate within the fkull, towards
the under part of the os frontis. This crifis is not
always a good omen, the patient often dying when
it comes on. If the patient efcapes death, yet the
fwelling of the limbs and ftupor of the fide often
remain. The Arabians call it Nysfham^ which
£\gn\?its Jiuxio calida (warm fluxion j to diftinguifli
it from the apoplexy, which they call Nyfl-bred|a
which figm^cs fiui'Jff frigida (cold fluxion.)

X 3 3. Synocha,

3S^ M E D I C A,

3, Synocha. Fevers.

They pound fhell-fifh {cochlea) both fhell and
flefh, making a cataplafm of them, which they
lay on the fole of the foot •, this fervea for a vefi-
catory, and draws a blifter on the folc. It is the
only remedy the Greeks at Athens, Salonica, &c.
ufe in violent fevers \ and they apply it with fuc-
cefs in the height of the difeafe. This they ufe in,
all fevers as a domeftick; medicine.

4. Tertiana. Ague>

A fympathetick cure for the Ague, which the
Greeks, in the ifland Morea, prefcribe.

When the patient begins to fhake, he goes and
leans againft a peach-tree, until the fit or paroxyfm
is over ; by this, they fay, he lofes his Ague, but
the tree dies away. This was told me by a per-
fon who lived a long time on Morea, and faw it
performed, as the diforder is common to all the
inhabitants of this Ifland.

Take an egg, roaft it in aflies till it becomes
quite hard, fprinkle it all over with pepper, and
eat it at once. A Swedifh merchant in Smyrna
was by this cured of an Ague, which never re-
turned again.

5. Cephalalgia. A domeftick cure, ufed by the
Arabians, for the Head ach.

In a violent Head ach they fhave the head, and
with a knife cut feveral holes before the crown of
the head (futura coronahs) ; the blood which runs
out they ftroke forwards with a fharp edged piece

of

M E D I C a: 383

of wood, letting it then run as long as they think
proper, or until the patient's pain is mitigated.
They cut the holes in fuch a manner as not to
touch any vein, but only in the fkin or flefliy
part, fo far refembling a fcarification.

6. Colics Medicina. A Cure for the Cholic.

Take the fnuff oi a candle, and German foap^
mix them well, and make pills. This in the
Levant is found to be a fure remedy againft the
Cholic.

Make pills of pitch (bitumen vulgare) of the
lize of a pea, of which, three or four are to be
taken, when the fit or paroxyfm comes on. This
is faid to be a fovereign remedy againft the wind
Cholic in Tartary, which I learned from a
Man in Smyrna, who had long lived amongft
the Tartars.

Colica fiatulenta. Gravidarum Veffus^

Take of powdered nutmeg, two grains; fweet
oil, what quantity you pleafe.

Make a tent of cotten, moiften it with the a-
bove mixture, and apply it. The patient mult
fit in warm water, almoft up to her middle, for
an hour, before the PefTus is applied, I faw a
midwife at Cairo, with this remedy, cure a wo-
man fix months gone with child, of a Colica
fiatulenta, which the patient had erroneoully taken
for a fign of future or inflant abortion ; but the
midwife prudently judged it to be the aforefaid
diflemper.

The women in Egypt frequently ufe PefTarla ;

but in Europe they are fcarcely ever ufed, tho' I

X 4 doubt

384 MEDIC A.

doubt not but they might be of fervice. A people,
however, fo much given to lull as the Egyptians,
often make a bad ufe of them. I was informed
by phyficiansj apothecaries and priells, to whom
they confeffed it on their death-beds, that they
often ufe them to help conception and to caufe a-
bordon and barrennefs. But I was not informed
of what fubftance, and in what manner they were
made, nor did I think it worth my while to en-
quire.

A cure the Arabians have for their Horfes, when
they are troubled with Gripings (Colica five.
IHaca.)

They give the Gall of Bears powdered and
mixed with coffee to the Horfe ; this is a moft
powerful remedy againft this diftemper, to \A(hich
the Arabian Horfes are fubjedl. This Gall is very
fcarce with the Arabians, therefore they pay dear
for it when they can get it, and preferve it as a
valuable treafure to ufe it on this occafion ; one
cannot offer an Arab a more welcome prefent,
than a bit of genuine Bear's Gall, which they know
very well, and cannot be impofed on with the
Gall of other animals.

7. Calculus. The Gravel.

The inhabitants of the Eaft ufe the dried leaves
of almonds infufed in water to cure the Gravel.

8. Afthma.

Take a fea gull, chop it in pieces, boil it in
water to make a ftrojig broth, and drink it at

once.

M E D I c a; g^s

This domeftick remedy I learned in Smyrna,
where it is faid to be ufed in the moft defperate
Afthmas.

9. Hyfteria. Hyftericks.

Fill a date with the ^powder of majikb, after
taking out the ftone •, clofe it again, and lay it on
coals to roaft. The patient is to place herfelf
over the coals, and draw the fmoak of it, which
is of an agreeable fmell, up her nofe; when the
date leaves off fmoking, or when the ma/itch is
melted and mixed with the juice of the date, the
patient eats it. This is to be done under the
paroxyfm, which I am told will certainly be ob-
viated.

Another : Lay the eggs of the fepia oflopodia
the cuttle fifh with eight claws on coals, and draw
the fmoke of it up your mouth and nofe. Both
thefe methods are ufed in the Levant.

10. Imaginationis Jiratagema,

A MAN afflidled with the hypochondriac difeafe,
and of a very difturbed mind, continually com*
plained of fomething in his throat which almolt
luffocated him. 1 endeavoured to cure him by
llratagem. I ordered a hen to be killed, and an
egg to be taken our ; I then prefcribed for the
Padent a light vomit, perfuading him that it
would bring up v/hat troubled him. While he
was vomiting, I ordered the egg to be privately
conveyed into the pot, and when the vomit had
ceafed operating, I fhewed him the egg amongft
what he had brought up j he was overjoyed, de-
claring

/

I

3S6 MEDIC A.

daring he felt it no more, nor did he after warda
complain of it.

II. Taenia. The Tape-worm.

The Tape-worm, which has of late years en-
gaged the attention of many great Phyficians, is a
plague, from which the inhabitants of Egypt are
not exempted, and which, in this country, affords
opportunities enough for a Phyfician to enquire
into its nature, of which we know very little.
Mr. Foumace, furgeon to the French nation, at
Cairo, was the firlV who told me this plague was
very common in Egypt, and fhewed me three
pieces of a 1 ape- worm, which he had, at various
times, forced out of a woman : one of them was
forty, the other about fifteen, and the third ten

/ French pique ; it was near half an inch broad.

^ After I had got this information, I ufed my bcft

endeavours to be better informed, and to co]le(5k
what obfervations I could get from him, and every
body elfe who pradlifed phyfic here, relative to a
fubjedl of fo much importance. I here commu-
cate them as they were related to me. The Tape-
worm is fo common, that Mr. Foumace, who has
pradifed phyfick here for fcveral years, believes
two -thirds of the inhabitants of Cairo to be trou-
bled with them. The Jews, and the common
people of Egypt, are moft affiided with this dif-
order ; many of the Coptites are alfo tormented
with them, but not many of the Turks. I did
not fail afking the Fraftitioners of Cairo, why the
people in this country are more tormented with
them than in other places, and why fome forts of
the people here, are more fubjedt to them than
others ? But I got no fatisfadtory ^nfwers. They

all

M E D I C A. 387

all agreed that the diet was the principal caufe, but
this was nothing new to me j however, I am of
opinion, that the miferable food of the poor peo-
ple, and particularly the nourifliment they take
great part of the year from melons, cucumbers,
and all other kinds of ground fruit, deferve fome
attention. One told me, that the Jews are troub-
led with worms, becaufe they eat fo many fweet
things ; and the women in particular, eat more
fweet meets, confedions, pruins, &c. than other
food. It is the general opinion, that fweet things
riourifh at lead, if not occafion, worms in children.
The Turks live here as well as in other places on
good and well drefled victuals. Rice and flefh ar^
their chief food. They likewife eat much fifli,
but the poor cannot buy them. The fifli of the
Nile do not perhaps contribute towards breeding
worms, though we have reafon to believe, that
the fifli of other rivers do, I made diligent en-
quiry with refpedl to the Signs, by which we may
judge, whether anyone has the Tape-worm or not j
and was informed, that the furcfl method is to ex-
amine the ftomach and eyes, viz. when a blue
ring is feen under the eyes, and when the ftomach
Iwells round the navel ; but I was told there is ne-f
ver occafion to fearch for more than one fign, and
this is the fureft, viz. the Vermes cucurbitini
(Gourd worms.) As foon as he knew that the pa-
tient voided Gourd-worms, he never hefitated to
prefcribe medicines againft the Tape-worm, and
he never remembered to have been difappoinred
in his conjedlures. It is very eafy to know hers
whether a patient has Gourd- worms, five perfons
out of ten, and perhaps more, void them when
they go to ftool, fome in confiderable numbers,
and almoft all without attending to it, except when

thev

3S8 MEDIC A,

they afk the advice of a Phyfician, upon the vcr-
mins tormenting them, and he enquires whether
they perceived them. They have no medicine in
Egypt againfl worms ; nor do they ever require a
Phyfician to prefcribe any thing for them. Even
they who know they harbour them, and are tor-
mented with all the inconveniences they are wont
to caufe, require only a remedy for the fymptoms,
^' S' g''Jp^s, head-ach, vomitings, but never fay
any thing of the caufe, which is generally to be at-
tributed to worms. They cannot conceive that
the infignificant Gourd worms, which they void
with fo much eafe, can occafion a difeafe, and they
never dream of the true caufe, I mean the Tape-
worm i for which reafon they are greatly terrified
when a Phyfician expels one from them. A Phy-
fician muft therefore know in what manner to
prefcribe againfl the real caufe, and not attend to
what the patient fays of his fymptoms, I never was
acquainted with more than one remedy prefcribed
for the worms, by thofe who pradifed phyfic in
Cairo v/ith judgment and applaufe, but this always
fucceeded fo well, that they had no occafion to
fearch for another. This is Petroleum given in-
wardly. Mr. Des Barats, M. D. of the Faculty of
Paris, and Phyfician to the Conful at Cairo, com-
municated this remedy to me. Both he, and the
aforefaid Mr. Foumace, have feen a confiderable
number in Cairo cured by Petroleum, and the
worm Mr. Foumace Ihewed me, was expelled by
it : they give it for three days fucceflively, for
which purpofe they chufe the three laft days of
the moon's laft quarter. When they have given it
for three days, they try whether they can expel
any of the worm which they fuppofe to be killed ;
if this does not fucceed, they wait till the next de-

creafe

M E t) I C A. $^

trcafe of the moon, and repeat the fame courfe>
Cairo, July i, 1751.

Ophthalmia ^gyptiorum. Difeafes of the Eyes.

No Difeafes are more common in ^gypt than
thofe that afFed; the Eyes, efpecially in Cairo, where
the greatell part of the inhabitants are afflifted
with (Ophthalmia anrdTforothalmia) fore and watry
Eyes. More than one caufe may be given for this
endemic dilbrdcr. The exceflive heat added to
the incredible quantity of fine duft, which flies
about the air of this dry country, is fufficient to
make the direafes of the Eye more frequent ia
Egypt, than any where elfe, and perhaps in
fome places this alone may be the caufe. But I
am fully perfuaded, that it is not the only thing
that occafions this diforder in the city of Cairo. I
have there obferved one more remarkable. The
inhabitants, efpecially thofe that live near the ca-
nal, have under their houfes a fink or deep pit,
that anfwers for a necefTary-houfe, for the recep-
tion of all kinds of filth and excrements. From
this fink there is a drain that leads into the canal
which runs through the city, and is never opened
but, in order to clear ic our, once a year, and that
at the time when the heat is moll violent, and the
canal has fcarcely any thing in it but the foetid
mire left by the Nile : and to this filth and or-
dure I afcribe the caufe of fore Eyes to the People
in Cairo, for whilft thefe putrid fubftances are fhut
up in the pit they infenfibly throw ofi^ fome noxi-
ous particles, w hich become more perceptible when
they are emitted into the canal, and unite their poi-
fon with the circumambient air. To confirm my
opinion, I needonly ufethe argument, which mduced

the

59& MEDIC A;

the learned Ramazzin to write his treatlfe 6t
Morbis Artificum, to which I refer the reader. .
. I HAVE feen one example of this, which was
more remarkable than all the others j a European
forty years of age had been in Cairo three years^
and was every year attacked with fore and inflam-
ed Eyes, juft at the time when the llench was
greateft in the canal, on the fide of which he lived.
He attributed his Difeafe to his fituation, as it went
away as foon as the caufe was removed, namely^
when the water at the rifing of the Nile flowed ia-
to the canal. Cairo, June 27 1750.

13, Siphilis. An example of venereal Ulcersj being
cured in Egypt with ^ar-water,

A MAN forty years of age had venereal Ulcers on
his forehead, nofe, chin, and in his throat, which
had occafioned a hoarfencfs, &c. An Englifli
Nobleman, who was travelling in Egypt, faw
this wretch, and immediately perceived the caufe
of his condition. He knew that Tar-water had
been ufed with fuccefs in England in fuch cafes,
and therefore defired the Englifli Conful, Mr.
Barton, to try whether he could by the fame
means cure him of his Difliemper. He procured
Swedifli Tar, from a Swedifli Ship at Alexan-
dria, prepared Tar-watery and ordered the pa-
tient to drink about a pint and a half a day. In a
month the fwellings in his throat began to abate,
and he recovered his voice. By degrees the Ul*
cers in his face were cured, and when I faw him
him, which was three months after he had begun to
drink Tar-water, there only remained an Ulcer on
his nofe, and this was alfo beginning to mend.

Cairo, July 6th, 1750.

14. Herpes

M E D 1 C A,

14. Herpes Aleppina,

39 1

(i.) Children and women never efcape this
Difeafe. (2.) Very few men, who come from other
parts to Aleppo, efcape it; the inhabitants fay
there is fcarcely one in a thoufand. (3.) If any
efcape it, they are thofe who have black hair (of
a melancholy temper,) according to the obfcrva*
lions made by the inhabitants. (4.) It commonly
lafts for fix months, but there are examples of its
continuing a year and more. (5.) It often afFeds
the cheeks of the Ladies, and then does more da-
mage by going off, than by Haying, for it deftroys
their beauty by leaving a fear. (6) It is very in-
conftant with regard to the place it occupies in
men, fometimes affecting the cheeks, fhoulders,
nofe, and even the glans penis. (7.) Nobody
could yet difcover the caufe of this Difeafe •, the in-
habitants commonly afcribe it to the water. (8.)
The inhabitants apply no medicines for it, but
leave it to nature.

Mr. Justi, fecretary to the Swedifli Conful,
told me, that an Armenian fervant in the Swedifti
Fadory had the Aleppo Mark. I was defirous of
being informed by the fervant of the circumftances
of this Difeafe, he related to me what follows : All
who are either born at Aleppo, or come thither
from other places, are attacked with a Difeafe,
which has the following fymptoms and effects;
fome part of the body, fometimes feveral, often
ten or tv/elve, is affeded with a fore or rather efflo-
refcence, which is red, fomewhat elevated, without
heat or pain, and the patient fcarcely knows
that he has it. There appear neither Veftcks nor
pimples. This continues a longer or a fhorter time,

'and

$gt M E t) I C A:

and terminates with a fcab (efchara), without hav-
ing fuppurated. When this falls off, it leaves an
ugly and deep fear, which the people in the Le-
vant call the Aleppo Mark ; all who have dwelt in
the city bear it, and perceive alfo more inconve-
nience after the Difeafe, than while it is on them,
efpecially thofe who bear the marks of it in the
face. But there are fome who bear a much more
unfortunate mark of this Difeafe, viz. thofe who
become blind, when the fore ajffedls the eyes. This
fervant had three fears, one on each cheek, pretty
deep, of an irregular figure, and refembling much
the fears which remain after burnt fores. They
who have once got over the Difeafe, are never af-
ter affeded with it, and they are feldom in the
town many days before it attacks them. The in-
habitants of the town and travellers afcribe the
caufe to the water ; I afked the fervant, whether
he ever perceived any fingu'ar qualities in the wa-
ter which is ufed at Aleppo, for meat and drink ?
but he knew of nothing, except that the water is
brought into the town by aqueducts from a little
inland river, and that it neither taftes nor fmella
different from other water, only a little warm.
Smyrna, December 30, 1749.

15. Hernia. Ruptures.

I HAVE been told by fome perfons in Syria,
who had undergone the cauterium fcroti in Rup-
tures themfelves, and been perfedly cured.

16. Sterilitas. Barrennefs.

The man and woman are tb drink a tea cup
full of clove water before they go to bed. This

is

MEDIC A. ^93

is a fovereign remedy in Egypt in thefe cafes, and
1 have been told, that women, who had been barren
for many years, have conceived, by iifing this
fimple medicine. A midwife, who told me this,
faid, that fhe had often prefcribed it with fuccefs.
Cairo, December 26th, 1756.

17. Puerperia*

I THIS day procured the following informations^
concerning the birth of children, amongft the in-
habitants of the Eaft. (i.) There are both Tur-
kilh and Greek midwifes here, who have learned
their art by experience, without being taught by
any body. (2.) The women here have good times,
and we feldom hear of difficult labours in
child-birth, much lefs of women dying in labour,
efpecially amongft the Turks. (3.) When the
child is born, they cut the ftring of the navel, as
with us, and apply cauterium aftuale, or a red hoc
iron to it. (4..) The head of the child is fprink-
led over with the powder of gallnuts and nutmeg
mixed together •, this forms a cruft on the head,
which they leave on till it falls off itfelf ; this
ufually happens within ten or twelve days. (^.)
The mother or nurfe is very fohcitous to bend the
arms and legs of the child. They bend, for ex-
ample, the left leg backwards over the loins, and
take the right arm and lay it over the back, fo as
to meet the foot, and in the fame manner the other
leg and arm. To facilitate this, they anoint the
joints with Iweet oil : I have been alTured by fome
women, that this is the beft remedy to lilence
children when they cry, and that the child by a
natural inftinft requires this to be done to it. May
not this be the reafon, why the eaftern people are
fo much more adive than the Europeans ? The
Y Greeks

594 M E D I C A.

Greeks chrlfiien their children immediately after
their birth, or within a few days at leaft, dipping
them in warm water, and in this refpedl they are
much wifer than their brethren the Ruffians, who
dip them into rivers in the coldeft winter. The
Jews circumciie their children on the 8th day,
■which feems to be a difficult and dangerous opera-
tion at that age. But the Turks are wifer, for they
defer this great ceremony in their religion, until
their fons have attained the 8th year of their age.

A Turk in Egypt had by feveral wives forty
children, of which none lived. (2.) A Bey, who
was murdered at Cairo about fifteen years ago, had
at his death feventy feven women in his Haram,
all v/ith child. (3.) Children got in Egypt by fo-
reign parents feldom live, v/hether they come of
Franks or Levantines j we therefore fee few Tur-
kiffi children, tho' the militia or army of Egypt
confifts of Turks who take women flaves from
Georgia, Circaffia, Ruffia, and other places. The
reafon of it may in great meafure be attributed to
the curfed cuftom of deftroying the foetus, as foon
as they perceive they have conceived, in order to
preferve the love of their hufbands, and exclude
their rivals. (4.) However, a Turk in Cairo had
by eight wives, within ten years, eighty children,
all living, of which I knew feveral.

18. In Damiata, the Neceflary-houfe is in the
Kitchen, which is very fingular. We ffiall fcarce-
ly find fuch a difgreeable cuftom in any place. In
the other towns, of Egypt, this place is always in
the dwelling-houfe, but not in the room where the
viduals are drefled.

COM-

COMMERCE. 595

COMMERCE.

1. The Riches of Egypt.

2. The Trade.

3. The Trade of the French.

4. The Trade of Aleppo.

5. The Trade of Damiata.

6. The Trade of Perfia.

7. The Weights of Egypt.

8. The Drefs or Cloathing of the Turks.

9. Cotton.
ID. Coffee.

11. Incenfe.

12. To give Wine an agreeable Flavour.

I. The Riches of Egypt.

THEY aflure me, that Egypt pays 1000
purfes a day to the Revenue, yet but a fmall
part of this reaches the Sultan. The grcateft part
of it goes to the Beys in Cairo, who govern the
country,, and 4000 men only can be draughted
from hence in time of war. Abdulha BaHiaw,
was by the Sultan fent to Egypt as Bafhaw dur-
ing my ftay at Cairo ; at his arrival he defired the
Government to pay 200,000 ducats into his privy
purfe, inftead of the moneys he had a right to
levy hereafter ; thefe were without further delibe-
ration given him within a few hours. He like-
wife defired Ibraim Kiaja to give him 5000 du-
cats, which was alfo complied with : thefe fums,
Y 2 laid

^g6 COMMERCE.

laid on one table, (hew that Egypt does not wanC
for money. Ibrahim Kiaja^ who in my time was
Ufurper of Egypt, gave the prefent Bafliaw, fom6
days after his arrival, a grand entertainment, at
which he and his brother Rodoau Kiaja, who
was the other Ufurper, waited at table. After
dinner, he gave the Bafhaw prefents to the a-
mount of 30,000 ducats, which confided of
horfes with and without furniture, fluffs from In-
dia, diamonds and coined gold. An Ufurper,
poffefTed of the chief power over Egypt, might
make fuch a prefent without lofing by it, but he
who received it, viz. the Bafliaw, muft certainly
have been much grieved to find himfelf loaded
with prefents from a perfon, whofe feigned re-
fpeft was intended to (hew him his power. They
are not the mofl agreeable prefents, which we are
obliged, for certain reafons of ftate, to receive
from thofe we would rather wi(h to fee in a con-
dition, in which it would be out of their power to
make them.

2. Of Gain in Trade.

If we can procure a commodity from the firft
hand, and fell it ourfelves without a rival for con-
fumption, we certainly may gain as much as we
pleafe. The largeft fum is given to the planter
or manufadurer, the merchant gains the profit,
and the purchafer fuffers the lofs. This has been
the foundation of riches in England and Hol-
land. The French have endeavoured to follow
their example in Egypt, but they have always
been obliged to leave a fhare of the profit to their
teachers. A Frenchman buys coffee at Mecca
from the firft hand, he carries it to Marfeilles,

and

COMMERCE. 397

and there fells it to the Dutch, Genoefe and Swifs,
by which he gains a httle. Thefe laft fell it to
the Germans, Swedes, Ruflians, &c. and gain a
little; the Frenchman might likewife have had
this profit, if he had himfelf carried it to thofe
places where the Dutch, &c. fell it.

3. The French in Cairo, where they have
eight merchants houfes, fell annually to the Turks
in Egypt 5 or 600 bales of cloth, each bale at
500 ducats Sermahabub. They diligently remark
what colour the people like bell, of this they fend
a fample to France, and order cloth fulcable to the
tafte of the people. The cloth which the French
export to the Levant, is not of the fame kind with
that they manufadure for themfelves, the laft be-
ing ftrong, thick, clofe and good, but that which
they export to the Levant though very fine, yet
it is thin, and foon wears out. They fell greateft
part of it at the Beiram of the Turks, for then
every one who can afford it muft have a new fuit
of cloaths. The Grandees and rich people in E-
gypt at that time cloth their fervants, which are
often 5 or 600 in number, and this requires much
cloth. The Englilh, who have only one houfe
here, have but a fmall fliare of this profit, as their
cloths are much better, and confequently dearer,
but the inhabitants prefer that which is cheapeft
and makes a fine appearance, and care not much
about the goodnefs, provided it lafts one year.
The French merchants received this day goods
from France by way of Alexandria, to the value
of 600,000 livres ; thefe came in a fhip from Mar-
feilles, which was the richeft that had come to
Egypt in the memory of man ; it had befides on
board a quantity of goods for the French mer-
chants in Alexandria and Rofette. The lading
y 2 confiri,ed

SgS COMMERCE.

, confilted only of cloaths and cochineal. Cairo,
June 19th, 1750.

4. In Aleppo, .which is the prettieft: town in the
Turkifh empire, there are nine French and eight
Englilli houfes. There are more Engliili here,
than in any other place in the Levant ; they trade
to Perfia and India. When Perfia is at peace, they
can gain 300 per cent, on their broad cloaths.
For thefe the market is as good in Perfia, as it is
for the French in Turkey ; becaufe the country is
colder, and requires a thicker manufadture than
the thin and wretched French cloths ; it depends
alfo on the different fentiments of the two nations.
The Turks admire a brilliant colour and fplen-
did appearance •, the Perfians are a wifer peo-
ple and know the value of goods. The Englifh,
difpofe of 8 or 900 bales of cloth every year at
Aleppo, and the French the fame quantity. They
get in return Silk, Drugs and Tefiic. The filk
comes from Perfia, and is much valued in Eng-
land.

5. The Trade of Damiata.

They export large quantities of Flax every year
to Venice, liCghorn, and fome to Marfeilles. They
make linen here, and fell it to great advantage, to
France and Italy for lining, and where courfe
linen is required •, but mofc of it goes to Syria,
Greece, Conftantinople, and other places in Tur-
key J to each of thefe are every year exported 100
bales, each bale fix feet in length, and four in
breadth and height, being valued from 3 to 500
piafter. All Egyptian linen is coarfe, and much of
the fame finenefs with the ten or twelve-penny Irifh
linen, but with this difference, that the Egyptian

is

COMMERCE. 399

is thin, and the Irifli clofe, and in this refpe6l, 1
imagine the former to be ftronger than the latter,
which is confirmed by experience, and allowed by
the rules of mechanics. The antients talk much
of the linen of Egypt, and many of our learned
men imagine it was fo fine and precious, that
we have even lofc the art, and cannot make it fo
good. They have been induced to think fo, by
the commendations the Greeks lavilTied on the E-
gyptian linens. They had good reafon for doing
it, for they had no flax themfelves, and were unac-
quainted with the art of weaving. But were we to
compare a piece of Holland hnen with the linen
in which the Mumies were laid, and which is of
the oMeft and befl manufafture in Egypt, we
ihould find that the fine linen of Egypt is very
coarfe in comparifon to what is now made. The E-
gyptian linen was fine and fought after by kings
and princes, when Egypt was the only country
that cultivated Flax, and knew to ufe it.

Hides and Rice are the other confiderable com-
modities which Damiata affbrds. Through this
town goes all the filk which is ufed in Egypt, it is
brought from Syria and Cyprus in confiderable
quantities.

6. The Perfian trade has, fince the reign of
Thomas Kouly Kan, being utterly ruined. The
Englifh and Dutch who were at Ifpahan had e-
nough to do to fave their lives, and were obliged
to leave their goods and houfes to be plundered,
when the tow n was feveral times facked by the
troops of the competitors for the crown. There
came formerly from Perfia to Aleppo looo bales
of the beft filk, which the Franks fent to Europe,
who in return fent to Perfia a quantity of cloth and
other European goods. This trade is at prefent en-
y 4 tirely

'400 COMMERCE.

tirely at a ftand. There came alfo formerly to
Smyrna feveral rich Caravans from Perfia, which
are not to be feen now,'nor do they continue to trade
to Perfia, by way of Baflbra ; and all this, becaufe
this kingdom, formerly one of the moft powerful
in the Eaft, is now entirely ruined, partly by the
tyranny of Thomas Kouly Kan, and partly by the
fadions which after his death contended for the
Crown.

7. The Weights of Egypt,

A Cantar of Cairo^ one of the greateft Weights
m Egypt, commonly contains 105 Rotieli, which
make 38 Turkifh Oke, They have a fingular
cuftom at Cairo, viz. each commodity is fold by
its own weight, different from all others, fo that
a Cantar of coffee is different from a Cantar of
myrrh or incenfe. There is alfo for every com-
modity a different manner of counting money 3
a piafter paid for incenfe contains fixty medins,
when paid for another commodity it contains per-
haps forty, &c,

8. Cloaths.

The Turks, even the pooreft of them, muft
ftbfolutely, have new Cloaths at their Beiram^ which
fucceeds the Ramazan. By this the Europeans,
but efpecially the French, who deal in Cioathsj
become confiderable gainers. It is very expen-
five to thofe who hold great offices, and confe-
fequently keep a number of flaves and fervants ;
for thefe they muft alfo cloath at this time. They
reckon that a Grandee in Cairo can't cloath his
fervants for kfs than 20,000 ducats at the Beiram.

9. CqT'

COMMERCE. 40t

9. Cotton is the chief produce of Cyprus.
This is the beft and mofl valuable of any in the
Levant, and much in requeft amongft the French
and Venetians. Cyprus produced formerly 6000
Cantars of Cotton, which was fold in the year
1 75 1, at 170 piafters a Cantar; at other times it
commonly fells at 150 piafters a Cantar-, but the
fcarcity which was for feveral years together oc-
cafioned by great droughts and locufts, and add
to this the want of people, owing to the tyranny
of the Turks, have made this and other produds
of Cyprus very dear and fcarce.

10. Coffee.

There are yearly brought 36,000 bales of
Coffee from Mocka to Egypt, each bale felling
for fixty piafters. A Cantar of Coffee is fold at
Cairo for eighteen Mahbub, each Mahbub con-
fifts of 1 10 Medins.

11. Incenfe (L'Encens, Incenfo)

Sells according to its goodnefs, from nine to
twenty-three piafters, at fixty medins each, per
Cantar, confifting of no rottoli.

12. A Method of giving Wine a fine Flavour;

Pluck the flowers of the vine, when they arc
juft come forth and in full bloffom, dry them in
the fhade, but by no means in the fun or a ftrong
heat ; powder and preferve them. Take what
quantity you pleafe of this powder, tye it up in
linen, and hang it in the cafk, when the new
Wine begins to ferment. Nothing is more natu-
ral,

402 COMMERCE.

ral, and nothing more efScacious in giving Wine
a high flavour, than this pow^der. The quintef-"
fence of the virtues of a plant lies in the flowers.
By drying them flowly, the evaporating fubtle
particles are concentrated^ and they may be pre-
ferved a long time without loiing their virtue.
When the Wine ferments, it afts on thefe fine
particles, and the motion thereby occafioned is
fufficient to mix them with the Wine, which by
thefe means, contains all the virtues of the grape
and flower. I know that the Greek Bifhop in
Smyrna, from whom I learned this method, had
a Wine of no fine Flavour, made of grapes which
grow at Urla^ a place near Smyrna % but by this me-
thod he gave it a fmell and Flavour far furpaiTing
any of the fame Wine not thus prepared. I know-
not whether this has ever been tried in other places,
yet I make not the leafc doubt but that it would
be attended with equal good fuccefs, in any place
where vines are planted, as nature is always the
fame, and never varies.

Dr. has-

LETTERS.

403

Dr, H a S S E L Q^U I S T's
LETTERS,

To Profeflbr

CHARLES LINN^US,

Knight of the Polar Star, and firfl: Phyfician to the King.

Smyrna, Dec. 16, 1749.

I Never undertook a talk fo agreeable as the
prefent, when I have the honour to write to
you from fo diftant a part of the world, to affure
you of my higheft regard and efleem.

The many favours you have conferred on me,
and the care you took to forward my journey, give
me hopes that you vAW with pleafure condefcend
to receive a detail of what has happened to me
from my departure to this day, and which I Ihall
■now have the honour to give you.

I CAME to Smyrna the 27th of laft month, af-
ter a voyage of fixteen weeks. ^ The fea agreed
very well with me, though it is not v/ithout its in-
conveniencies ; but by being cautious, and thro'
the blefTing of the Almighty, I have bore all with-
out receiving any hurt, and am in as good a ftate
of health at prefent, as I ever have been in my
life. I have never been fick either at home or
abroad; I am only forry that a boiflerous fea
took from me all opportunities of feeing many of
the wonderful works of nature. A filh, which

fome-

404 letters;

fometimes we caught with our hook, or fmall birds
driven by the winds to feek flicker with us, were
all I had to fatisfy my curiofity, and employ my
time, in defcribing and reducing them to their
proper tribe. The latter, viz. wag-tails, buntings,
fparrows, larks, vifited us oftener than we de-
iired ; as they never foreboded good. They be-
gan their vifits in the Baltic, and continued them
to the Archipelago, and as often as a little bird
came on board us, we were always fure of hard
weather. Thefe little creatures are as forward at
fea as on fliore to take refuge with men. I fliould
imagine, our Divines ought not to be ignorant of
this propenfity in them, as it very well explains the
reafon why Noah's dove, which was of the fame
tribe, was fo faithful as to return to the ark, ra-
ther than keep out at fea, or live in a world defti-
tute of men.

I HAVE always taken care to get hold of fome
of thefe travellers, and have defcribed about thirty
of them ; fome of which I have feen in Sweden,
others not. I had them all preferved ; but loft
them by an unlucky accident.

It was entertaining to fee, when a lark intended
to come and vifit us, which however never hap-
pened, unlefs we were near fome fliore, that it had
the fame adion at fea as on land, fliooting down,
and rifing again perpendicularly ; but it was ill-
adapted to its nature, as there were no green fields
whereon it might refl: : this bird is not calculated
to refl: on the fea, therefore the greateft part of
them periflied in the waves ; a few only, and thofe
almoft dead reaching us. I had a great inclination
to fee the Peteril, but not one appeared, though
there were frequent opportunities. I alfo aflced
«ur old feamen, who for many years frequented

the

LETTERS. 405

the Spaniih and Mediterranean feas, whether they
had ever feen fuch a bird ; but they anfwered in
the negative. I have reafon to beHeve, that it only
appears in the great ocean near both the Indies,
and efpecially the weflern. I have only been on
the ifland Milo in the Archipelago, which is one
of the word; it was befides in the autumn, and I
had no opportunity of fearching for plants •, yet I
colle6led fome as I went up to the town, which
was in the middle of November, viz. autumnal
dandelion, {Leontodon autumnale) Nerium oleander^
which was already in feed. Maftich tree (Pijiacia
Leniifcus) an Anemone, which was in blofibm,
with variegated blue and white flowers. In the
town, the date tree was in bloflbm, the flowers
were brought on the table with the defert, at a
place where I dined, to regale us with their agree-
able odour. Majoram was kept in a pot, and gi-
ven me as a rarity.

A black Game, (Tetrao urogallus) was Ihot
there in a palm tree. I could never have imagined,
that this northern bird was to be met with fo far
to the fouth, if I had not feen it myfelf. Wood-
cocks were alfo to be feen there, and I have fince
feen them here j they have their winter quarters fo
far to the fouth, but in the fummer they quit this,
country.

I COULD not get many fiflies on my voyage,
though they pleafe me moft. I have defcribed a
Scoraber, which Artedius hath not amongft his
fpecies, and 1 cannot find that he mentions it a-
mongtt his Genera. I got a Sparus at Milo, which
I hkewife believe to be a nondefcript.

I ENJOY the entire good-will and friendlhip of
our more than good Conful Mr. Rydelius, where
t board without expence. I am treated very

politely

4o6 L E T T E R S.

politely by the French Conful, Mr. Peyfonel, the
Dutch Count Hochpied, and fome Greeks of con-
dition ; Mr. Peyfonel is a very learned man, and
affords me much pleafure.

Ti-iE college of Phyficians of this town which
confifcs of five Do6tors, all Greeks, who have ftu-
died in Italy, ihevv me much complaifance, and
have called me feveral times to their confultations.
This is a place, where I can do much in natural
Hiftory, if the long journey I have to make, and
my little money, will allow me to tarry here a few
months. The fea affords nflies and variety of other
animals. Wild fowl are in greater plenty here
than in other places, and are daily brought to
market from the country and fea. The hills, dales
and plains, v^ill be rich in flowers when the feafon
once approaches ; and I can never have a better
opportunity of looking round me in a foreign
country than I have here. Our Conful's Interpre-
ters, Janififaries and horfes are at my fervice, when-
ever 1 pleafe ; and befides, I live in a houfe, to
which they daily bring fifh and wild fowl.

The time I have been here has particularly
afforded me an opportunity of feeing the kinds of
fiih and {hell-fifh the Greeks ufe in their Lent. I
believe no people make fo much ufe of fhell -fifli,
and other fea animals, as the Greeks do. I have
feen them eat ten different forts of fhell-fifh, (lob-
ftersj crabs, prawns and fhrimps are not included
here, being ranked by Linnseus under the clafs of
infefts) when with us oyflers only are eaten. A-
mongfl others they fell here a Sepia (Cuttle fifh,)
which by them is called oktutto^kz ; it has only eight
tentacula, all of equal length ; the whole animal is
a foot long, and thick in proportion. Of this the
Greeks have related me an anecdote, which I think

remarkable :

LETTERS. 407

remarkable : the Pinna muricata, or great Silk
mufcle, is here found in the bottom of the fea in
large quantities, being a foot long : the oKTWTroJ'ia,
or cuttle filh with eight rays, watches the oppor-
tunity, when the mufcle opens her Ihell, to creep
in it, and devour her ; but a little crab, which has
fcarceiy any |^ ihell, or has at leafc only a very thiti
one, lodges conftantly in this iliell-fifh \ ihe pays
a good rent, by faving the life of her landlady, for
fhe keeps a conftant look out through the aper-
ture of the fnell, and on feeing the enemy ap-
proach, ^at begins to ftir, when the Triva, (for (o
the Greeks call the fhell) fliuts up her houfe, and
the rapacious animal is excluded. I faw this fliell-
fifh firfi: at the ifland of Milo, and found fuch a
little crab in all I opened : I v/ondered not a lit-
tle what was her bufmefs there ; but when I came
here, I was «irfi: informed of it by the Secretary of
our Conful, Mr. Jufti, a curious and ingenious
man, who has travelled much, and lived long in this
place. This was afterwards confirmed by feve-
ral Greeks, who daily catch and eat both thefe
animals, i have fuinciently defcribed thefe three
animals, \v\i\\ the fifii and birds I have (ztn. to this
day, and likewife preferve them all, fome dried,
others in fpirits of wine. 1 have the honour to tranf-
mit a defcription of aC<?(9/^ (Fulica), the others fhall
follow, as foon as I can copy them, and my journal.
As to what relates to the continuing of my
journey to Paleiline, I had at firfc an intention of
going to Conitantinople, and thence to Syria •, but
believe I fhall alter my mind, and go dire6lly
hence, for many reafons. Flere the opportunities
of getting vefTels are more frequent, the voyage
is fhorter : I have alfo heard, that in a Oiort time
there will be a good opportunity of going in com-
pany

4o8 LETTER S.

pany with the Armenian Patriarch from Jerufalem^
who is here at prefent. The journey I have flill
to make requires more money than I imagined, if
I accomplilh the purpofe I intended. 1 think it
would be a great pity, that a matter of fuch con-
fequcnce, which has fo far been purfued, Ihould be
dropped for want of money. I will anfwer for it,
that with a little addition of money, and the aflilt-
ance of the Almighty, the natural Hiftory of Pa-
lefline, and the adjacent places, fhall be as well
known, as that of any country, except Sweden. If
my money would permit, I could take a fervant
with me from this place, who might be my Inter-
preter, and without one, I fhall lofe many fair op-
portunities of informations, in places where they
don't fpeak fo many European languages as in
Smyrna ; but there are befides other neceflary
expences in thofe places, without which I cannot
advance a ftep,

I HOPE to have a fine collecSlion of living and dead
natural curiofities, by the time I intend to return
home. Mr. Rydelius, our Conful, hath promifed
me fome living pheafants, of incomparable beauty,
from the borders of Perfia : a kind of patridges
called Francolins, which are not defcribed in the
Syftema Naturas, fome turtle doves, and a Pelican
preferved ; I know a method of getting a living
rock goat, befides a number of known and un-
known fifhes, birds and plants, which I have alrea-
dy got, and Ihall hereatter colled.

Smyrna, January 29, 1750.

I WAS this moment informed of a veflers going
to Europe, and therefore muft not omit the op-
portunity of writing to you.

I AM

LETTERS. 409

1 AM only forry, that time will not permit me to
make fuch expedition as I could wiili in forward-
ing to you all the obfervations and defcriptions I
have made in Natural Hiftory to this time. But
they Ihail fpeedily be tranfmitced.

Francolins and Poulle de Montagnes are new
bird'^, which I apprehend have not been defcrib-
cd, and are of the genus Tetrao % the firft was
drawn by Tournefort, in his travels, but badly.
I have a kind of Blackbird which fings exceeding
well, is black and grey, and comes from the
iflands in the Archioelap-o ; it is often fold for

J. O '

fifty piafters at Conftantinople. I have a living
Turtle-dove, of a very rare fort, v/hich came
from Abyffinia in Africa, and is as white as chalk.
I have the Pelican ftuffed. I have feen all our
Swedifli fea fowl here. Mr. Rydelius is very de-
firous of procuring birds, and has lately taken mea-
fures to get fome Oftrichcs and other rare birds from
Egypt, all which he intends to fend to Sweden.
I have often feen, and have well defcribed the
Rock Goat. It is fuch a fine creature^ that Solo-
mon could not mean any other animal than this
by the Doe, to which he compared his Bride in
the Canticles. And they are found in abundance
in the mountains of Syria and Palefiine; but they
are more like Cervus Capreolus in outward appear-
ance, than a Goat. Canis aureus ( Jackcal) is found
in greater numbers here, than the inhabitants
wifh ', I intend foon to go out and fhoot one, and
fhali then make a compleat delcription of it,

I HAVE botanized here feveral times this winter,
and never loft my labour. I fhall without delay
have the honour to tranfmit my whole colledion
of plants and defcriptions ; in the m.ean time, -I
fend one inclofed, which I imagine to be new ; at

Z ieaft.

4IO LETTERS.

kaft, T cannot range it under any genus in Synge-
nefia, Monogamia, though it belongs to the or-
der. I have completely defcribed and fufHciently
dried it.

I HAVE not omitted to fearch for proofs of the
fea's diminution-, and I have found fome, which
are I think very evident ; I Ihall do myfelf the
honour of tranfmitting them the firft opportuni-
ty to the Royal Academy of Sciences. For five
days pad, the cold in Smyrna has been unufually
fevere. The Florentine thermometer points to 68,
The ice has been fo thick at the fides of the har-
bour, that the Dutch have fkaited on it. The old-
eft people in the town do not remember fuch fe-
vere weather to have lafted fo long at any time
before. If the winter in Upfala, is in proportion
as fevere as this, God alone can fave Upfala garden.

Being accuftomed to Swedifh winters, I (hould.
not mind this, if I had but a Swedifh ftove. I am
obliged to fit at a miferable coal fire to write this,
and never was fo cold in Sweden, as in the mife-
rable architedture of this country. I know not
yet how foon the Patriarch, in whofe company I
expedt to travel to Jerufalem, fets out j but be-
lieve, I fhall remain here another month.

Smyrna, February 9, 1750.

I JOYFULLY embrace every opportunity I
have of writing to you, and think myfelf hap-
py, whenever I can fulfil this my duty.

I HAD the honour of tranfmitting a plant to
you fome days ago, which I knov/ not, the defcrip-
tion now follows ; together with one of a Sepa^Cuz-
tlefifli.) If any miftakes have crept in to my de-
Icriptions, I requeft your favourable corredion, as
they are made by a young beginner. I have firft

learned,

LETTERS. 411

learned, during my travels, to defci-ibe well the
produdions of nature ; I improve every day, and
if 1 can only in time arrive at a fmall fhare in the
learning and ingenuity of my great matter, I will
not exchange it for the art of the greateft Painter.
No natural curiofities are fo difficult to defcribe,
as fhells and corallines, which are here found in
great plenty, and I by no means pafs them over.
I poflefs in you a friend, who kindly and wifely
correds my errors. I have now a fine bundle of
defcriptions ; I fhall fend them over, as foon as I
can copy them.

The inclofed, I requeft, you will deliver to Dr.
Rofen and Dr. Bsck, the King's Phyficians. I
have given the former an account of the prefenc
ilate of Phyfic in Smyrna ; the latter of an en-
demical difeafe in Aleppo ; the copy of thefe I
fhall have the honour of tranfmitting to you foon.
In this manner I intend to pay my refpetfts to my
Patrons.

Smyrna, April 6.

STILL continue in the place, from which I
have feveral times had the honour of writing to
you. I have tarried here longer than I intended,
for want of a proper opportunity ; but I do not
repent of my ilay, on account of the opportunity
I have had of living during a fine fpring, at a
place fo rich in natural curiofities, as this neigh-
bourhood of Natolia is. Each day brings to my
knowledge nev/ things in Botany, and this has
been the cafe for a month paft ; if I had feveral
to aflifl me, we fhould all have enough to do.

Some time ago, I made a journey in Natolia
to the town of Magnefia, eight leagues from
hence. I botanized there on the mount Svpilus

Z 2 'of

412 LETTER S;

of the ancients, one of the highefl in Afia, which is
covered with fnow all the year. I (hall have the ho-
nour of giving an account of the plants I found
there, when I fend the bulk of my colle6lion.

I FOUND alfo infedls there, which had never been
before difturbed. I daily colled numbers of them ;
and it is remarkable, that many of them are men-
tioned in the Fauna Suecica, but fome are peculiar
to this country. I have the honour of tranlmitting
a little fly, which I took yefterday in the fruit of a
fisc-tree ; it lies inclofed in the germen of the fe-
male fig, which it has eaten up. Whether this is
the infed: that ferves afterwards to impregnate the
fruit, I cannot yet determine. Before 1 quit this
place, I fhall endeavour to acquire a clear idea of
the fig-tree*s infeds -, this rriuft be a Cynips, and
the fig its Galla ; 1 have completely defcribed it.

I HAVE diverted myfelf for fome time with the
Chameleon and Turtles, to fee their qualities, when
I had them alive in my chamber. I (hall in time
publifh the obfervations I made on them. I wifh
I had fome of the latter in Upfala to ornament
your garden -, it is very eafy to gee them home
alive •, I fliall endeavour to accomplifh it. It is
very amufing to fee how they make love. I have
got a quantity of the Cornucopi^e^ the rare grafs,
which you were pleafed to recommend fo much to
me, to fearch for round Smyrna ; I have likewife
defcribed it •, and inclofed, fend you fome fpeci-
mens. I fhall gather the feeds when, they are
ripe, and fend them to the Academical Garden,
which 1 hope will be the firfl that gets this fine
plant.

This fliort account how I have employed my
lime, is all I can have the honour to impart to
you at prefent. 1 Ihall not omit to give you a

laro-^r

LETTER S. 413

larger colleflion of my obfervations before my
departure hence.

I AM now determined to leave this place next
afcenfion-day, and go from hence in a French fhip
to Alexandria in Egypt, there I intend to obtain
what information I can in a fhort time, and fo go
over to Palaeftine.

Smyrna, April 28.

I AM now at the point of leaving this place,
from whence I have had frequent agreeable
opportunities of writing ro you. i have got a
Turkifh pafs, and expe6t every day an oppor-
tunity to continue my journey in fome veiTel,
which in all appearance will be firft to Egypt, by
way of Cyprus to Alexandria and Cairo, whence
I intend, with the help of God, to go to the place of
my deftination, Palasftine. I hope thefe places, in
a promifmg time of the year, will afford me fuf-
ficient opportunities for obfervations in Natural
Hiftory, which I wifli in time to lay before you.
I fhallelteem myfelf happy, if there fhould be any
amongft them worth your attendon, and fiiall have
gained the greateft reward I can expecl from my
poor endeavours.

Flora begins now in this country to put on
her beft attire, fine varieties of Amm nes adorn the
plains : Hyacinths grow near the roads : Ranun-
culus of a large and fine variety is common in the
vineyards : the Almond-tree blofibms on the bare
branches, and gives the hills an elegant appear-
ance, where they are mixt wirh the ever-green
olive-trees. I often willi, that thefe were as com-
mon in Sweden as Fumitory and Treacle muftard

Z 3 are

414 LETTERS.

are here, with feveral others, which I find are na-
tives of Natolia as well as Sweden.

The following obfervations about the fig-tree
I. have acquired here, and now fhall have the ho-
nour of communicating them to you, as I got
them.

The polTeffors of fig-trees are very follicitous,
that the much-talked-of fly fhall pierce the fig,
and unlefs this is done, they are perfuaded they
fhall have no fruit.

Another infeft perfecutes this and kills it, to
the lols of the pofTefTors ; this they hinder by
fmearing. a paint on the tree, juft beneath the
branches ; this confifts of common red paint and
Vi^ater, Vv^hich the pernicious infed dares not to
pafs. I have in all places feen many fuch rings
painted on the tree •, but cannot know the infe(5ts,
as the feafon of the year permitted me not to fearch
for it, perhaps it is a pifmire.

Those, who cultivate fig-trees, take the black
figs (thus they call Caprificus), and faften them on
a thread in the form of a necklace, which they
hang on the fruit-bearing trees, and believe it to
contribute towards producing good and great
plenty of fruit.

The fig-tree is fubjed to a fcurf (AsV^a Grsec.
hod.) I faw plenty of this fcurf yefterday, and
fpund it to confift of a quantity of infedls cells
placed on the bark of the branches, of the fize of
a pea, the top of them depreffed, and a little
pointed in the middle, of a very brittle fubfl? nee,
being eafily rubbed to duft between the fingers •,
they confiil of tvv'o membranes, of which the in-
ward is brown, and the outward greyifh, there are
always three placd together, fo as to form a trian-
gle. They were dry and dead on all the trees

when

LETTERS. 415

when I faw them, nor could I find either living or
dead infedis in any of them ; however, I defpair
not of finding, at a proper time of the yea,r, the
infeds which make them.

The Caprificus is planted in quantities round
gardens for hedges •, 1 fuppofe, no Swedifh gardener
will venture to plant theie trees for the fame ufe ;
but by the fine hedges which ivy makes round the
badly laid out gardens of this town, I am per-
fuaded it would ferve for the fame purpofe, if we
had it in fufficient quantities. The defcriptions,
which I made to this time of quadrupeds, birds,
amphibia and plants,'amount to about 500 fpecies,
which are all completely defcribed ; to which I
may add as many obfervations on various fubjecls
in Natural Hiftory. I fhall have the honour of
fubmitting to your favourable judgment, as many
of them as 1 can copy off, before my departure.
I fend one inclofed ; 1 know not whether this bird
is defcribed or not. The fubfidence of the fea is
fo evident in this place, that it can fcarcely be
eafier demonftrated in any other place, that the
fea yearly decreafes. In the inclofed letter, to
Secretary Elvius, I have fpoke my mind freely and
clearly on this fubje6l, but fome things I have re -
ferved to myfelf, which I wifh in time to relate to
you in perfon ; and until then (hall fay no more
on that fubjed.

May the Supreme Being let us fee the time,
v^hen our country may acquire honour and benefit
from thofe things, which foreigners have pafled
over on their travels, in which, as well as in almoft
every thing elfe, we have been the lait ; but God
be praifed ! we hope not the word in the world.

Z 4 Alexandria,

4i6, LETTERS.

Alexandria, May i8, 1750.

I HAVE now the honour to write to you, from a
diffcreni part of the world, than 1 have hither-
to done. I came hither the 1 3th of this month,
after I had tan led in Natolia above five months.

In the few days I have been in Egypt, even in
the moft barren places that I have feen, I find
that this fine country can afford an infinity of
curious fubjedts in Natural Hiftory, to employ
my time in the three feveral kingdoms of Nature.
The four days I have looked round me, give me
reafon to hope much.

The firft thing 1 did after my arrival was,
to fee the Date-tree, the ornament and a great part
of the riches of this country. It had already
bloflxDmed, but 1 had, neverthelefs, the pleafure
of feeing how the Arabs aflift its fecundation, and
by that means fecure to themfelves a plentiful har-
veft of a vegetable, which was fo important to them,
and known to them, many centuries before any
Botanifl: dreamed of the difference of fexes in ve-
getables. The Gardener informed me of this,
before I had time to enquire, and would fhev/ me,
as a very curious thing, the male and female of
the Date or Palm-trees •, nor could he conceive
how I, a Frank, lately arrived, could know it be-
fore •, for, fays he, all who have yet come from
Europe to fee this country, have regarded his re-
lation either as a fable or a miracle. The Arab,
feeing me inclined to be further informed, ac-
companied me and my French interpreter to a
Palm-tree, which was very full of young fruit,
and had by him been wedded or fecundated with
the male, when both were in bloffom. This the
Arabs do in the following manner : when ihtfpa-

LETTERS. 417

dix^ ha.5 female flowers t that comes out of \t%fpatha^
they fearch on a tree that has male flowers, which,
they know by experience, for a fpadix, which
has not yet burfted out of its Jpatha : this they
open, take out the fpadix, and cut it lengthways
in feveral pieces, but take care not to hurt the
flowers. A piece of this fp a dix, with male flowers,
they put lengthways between the fmall branches of
tht fpadix which hath female flowers, and then lay
the leaf of a Palm over the branches. In this fi-
tuation, I yet faw the greateft part of the fpadices
which bore their young fruit ; but the male flowers
■which were put between were withered. The
Arab befides gave me the following anecdotes :
Firft, unlefs they, in this manner, wed and fecun-
date the Date tree, it bears no fruit. Secondly,
they always take the precaution to preferve fome
wv\o\iQT\td. fpath^e with male flowers^ from one year
to another, to be applied for this purpofe, in
cafe the male flowers fhould mifcarry or fuffer
damage. Thirdly, if they permit the fpadix of
the male flowers to burft or come out, it becomes
ufelefs for fecundation : it>mull: have its maiden-
head, (thefe were the words of the Arab) which
is loft in the fame moment the bloffoms burft
out of their cafe. Therefore the perfon, who cul-
tivates Date-trees, muft be careful to hit the right
time of affifting their fecundation, which is almoft
the only article in their cultivation. Thirdly, on
opening the fpatha^ he finds all the tnaie flowers
full of a liquid, which refembles the finelt dew ;
it is of a fweet and plealant tafte, refembhng
much the tafte of frefh Dates; but much more
refined and aromatick: this was likewife con-
firmed by my interpreter, who hath lived thirty-
two years in Egypt, and therefore had opportuni-
ties

4i§ LETTERS.

ties enough of tading both the nedlar of the
bloiToms, and the frefh Dates.

Thus much have I learned of this wonderful
work of Nature, in a country, where it may be
feen every year. I fhall have the honour to give
a relation of the ufe, and divers other qualities of
the Date-tree, at fome other opportunity. 1 hope
in time to be able to give you a complete hiftory
of this Palm. I wifh 1 was as fure of an oppor-
tunity of feeing all the Palm tribe.

The other plants I faw in this neighbourhood,
are Egyptian Acacia, (Mimofa nilotica) Chaite-
tree, (Vitex agnus callus) Palma Chrifli, feveral
forts of Goofe-foot, (Chenopodium) and Fig-
marigold, (Mefembryanthemum.) I never faw
a fpecies of Goofe-foot in Natolia, where other-
wife every thing grew ; but I have feen very little
in Egypt yet. Alexandria is the word part of it,
and is only a port for Ihipping off the riches of
Egypt, Arabia and Abyffinia. Pleafe God, I
fhall foon fee Rofette, the garden of this king-
dom ; and the Nile, the repofitory of its natural
curiofities. In Cairo, I fhall endeavour to get
fome fragments of the Natural Hiflory of Arabia
and Egypt. 1 have great hopes o( learning the
hiftory of the Balfam of Mecca ; I have already
got a number of informations from the Mecca
•travellers, and only wait to get a little Ihrub of it
from a Turk, at the end of the year, if poffible,
or at leaft a branch, and perhaps bioflbms, for which
1 have already taken proper mealures. There is a
pofiibility of getting the plant, which yields the
Myrrh, by the caravan from Ethiopia to Cairo ;
but it requires time, and fome expences •, I fhall
do all in my power. If it is poffible, I fhall make
a tour to Upper Egypt j but of this I can fay

nothing

LETTERS. 419

nothing for certain, before I come to Cairo.
Pleafe God, I fhall fee Palaeftine, which is my
chief bufinefs, next Autumn, and perhaps remain
there to the Spring following, that I may fee the
two principal feafons of the year, viz. Autumn
and Spring, when every thing is in bloffom.

I REQUEST you will pleafe to honour me with
a letter before that time, and inform me, whether
you would have me enquire after any thing in par-
ticular, and whether Dr. Celfius knows any thing
in particular, which he would have me look after.
Though I fearch after every thing, yet 1 may l^y
fuch informations have an opportunity of clear-
ing up fome things, which, without them, I
might perhaps pafs over.

I REQUEST you wiU pleafe to afk Dr. Celfius,
whether the writers on Scripture plants have ever
thought what vegetable David refers to in Pfalmi.
ver. 3. under the name of the Tree of the Righteous.
David attributes qualities to this tree, which plain-
ly (hew, that he means fome particular vegetable.
And thefe qualities are fuch, that they cannot be
attributed to any, but the Neriiim (oleander) which
grows in abundance in this country. One word
about St. John's Locufts, which have puzzled the
learned fo much. They, who deny infeds to have
been the food of this holy man, urge, that this
infecl is an uncuftomary and unnatural food ; but
they would foon be convinced of the contrary, if
they would travel hither to Egypt, Arabia or
Syria, and take a meal with the Arabs ; roafted
Locufts, are at this time eaten by the Arabians, at
the proper feafon, when they can procure them ; fo
that in all probability, this difli has been ufed in the
time of St. John. Ancient cuftoms are not here fub-
jeft to many changes. The vi6tuals of St. John are

not

420 LETTERS.

not believed unnatural here ; and as I was once
fpeaking to a judicious Greek Pricft about this af-
fair, and told him that the learned in Europe were
of different opinions, whether St. John in the de-
fart, eat a kind of bird, or a plant, afking him
■which of thefe opinions he thought the true one ?
He anfwered with a laugh, that both were alike
erroneous. Their church had never taken this
food to be any other, than what is exprefled in the
Teftament, nor did he know any thing to contra-
diait.

I HAVE the honour to fend here inclofed the fly
called Panorpa Coa, which I took on the ifland Me-
teline in the Archipelago ; I have never feen this
fpecies in Sweden, and know not whether it is
Swedifh, if it is, it was unnecefiary to fend it fo far.

Likewise the meafure (28 feet,) containing the
thicknefs of the Plane-tree, which is a prodigy in
our father's kingdom, I mean Stanchio, the town
in which Hippocrates was born. This tree has
forty-feven branches, each a fathom thick, fup-
ported by ftone pillars, and covers a very large
terrace, ftiades feveral houfes of various fizes, being
above twenty in number ; I imagine, in feeing it, to
have beheld thelargeft, oldefl, and moft remarkable
inhabitant of the vegetable kingdom. All the ob-
fervations and colleftions I made in Natolia, I have
left in Smyrna, in the houfe of Conful Rydelius.
I fhall have the honour to fend you copies of a
great number of them, which I have taken with
me in notes, as faft as I can write them. I am
alone, and if I had only one to affift me in writ-
ing, I (hould do twice as much ; but how fljall
we get bread in the wildernefs ?

A cERTAixM affair has happened to me, of which
this opportunity will not permit me to fpeak,

which

LETTERS. 421

which will make my journey to Egypt eafy and
not expenfive j but in Syria and Palseftine, I
cannot avoid expence. Conful Rydelius, whofe
goodnefs I can never enough commend, has ta-
ken upon him to furnifh me with money.

Cairo, September, 1750.

SINCE my laft, I have feen more of Egypt^
and had an opportunity of acquiring fome
knowledge of a country, which is certainly one
of the moft remarkable on our globe. You will
find by the inclofed lift, what I have done in Na-
tural Hiftory. 1 could have increafed it with a
larger number; but I would only mention the
principal fubjefls, and fuch as I had time to firifh
as well as I pofifibly could upon a journey and de-
llitute of Books, vyhich are fometimes neceffary to
refer to, I fhall add a few defcriptions, and have at-
tained my wilhes, if you approve of them. The
account how to prepare Sal armoniac, I intend
for the Royal Society, having compofed it on the
fpot, where Sal armoniac is made. I hope it will
not be unnacceptable, as it is the lirft account
which, as far as I know, has been written at
large and diftinclly on the fpot, and by an eye-
witnefs. I fend it open to you, defiring you will
pleafe to read it over, and afterwards feai it, and
fend it to the Royal Academy of Sciences.

I HAVE not put down in my lift, the Pyramids
of Egypt, nor the Mumies ^.nd their fepulchres ;
but I ought not to pafs over in fiience my having
feen them, which is fufficient. I cannot detain
you longer with thefe things, without following the
common track of every voyager, who never for-
gets to fpeak largely about the width, depth,
height and breadth of thefe things, which now

fcarcelv

425 LETTERS.

fcarcely deferve the leaft attention of a tra,vellef»
after having been feenby fomany thoufands. But I
efteem myfelf happy in having feen fon:iething elfe
in Egypt, which alone certainly deferves a voyage
to this country, I mean the flowing of the Nile^
which may with reafon be called a wonder of na-
ture, aflifted by art. But the moft furprifing thing
of all, is, that the fields of Egypt owe to our northern
mountains their fertiUty, and of courfe the coun-
try its felicity. This is a matter which is certain-
ly known to our natural Philofophers, as it is al-
lowed by all the Wifemen of Egypt, who have it
from their mafters through many generations.
They fay, that the water, which every year en-
creafes the Nile, rifes from the earth towards the
North Pole, is changed into clouds, and thus tra-
vels, when thefe have a proper wind, over Europe
and Africa, as far as the Montes Lun^ in Ethiopia,
where it falls down in rains, runs in abundancy
from the rocks of the mountains, and is gathered
in the Nile, which hath its fountain there, and
below its fall is by channels led over all Egypt,
according to the wife conceptions of the ancient
Egyptians. This is the opinion of thofe of the
Egyptians, who believe themfelves to have fome
knowledge of nature, of which fome are yet to be
found here, defcended from the Arabian fchool.
I have thought this account worthy of relating,
juft as I received it, and will leave others to fearch,
whether any ufeful information can be got hence,
in a thing beyond the plan of my enquiries.

I SHALL rather purfue that which comes under
my own fphere, and fpeak of vv^hat Botanijts may
expedt from Egypt towards the increafe and im-
provement of that art. Of this I have now an idea
entirely different from that which Alpinus gave

me

LETTERS. 422

me in Sweden. This Author made me believe,
that I Ihould find a botanical magazine in Egypt,
but this is not the cafe. Egypt has very few indige-
nous plants. The greatelt part of thofe to be feen
here, and which are noticed by Alpinus, are cul-
tivated by art ; for this reafon we find here a Flora
ceconomica, which is without doubt one of the
richeft under the fun. The quantity of corn,
wheat, barley, hearts and peas, the abundance of
rice, the fuperfluity of jiax, which this country
yearly produceth, are evidences of this -, befides
the quantity of indigo, fafflower, dates, cajfia, and
fenna, with which the country enriches its poiTef-
fors. The fituation of the country and feafons is
fuch, as will not permit many fpontaneous plants
to come forth, of which I hope to give you my
obfervations more circumilantially another time.

I HAVE gathered the flowers and feeds of every
thing planted here, and defcribsd and collefled
every thing I found wild. V7hat pleafeth me
moil of any thing I have found here in the vege-
table kingdom, is, the knowledge I have got of
the Date-tree, and fcripture fyccmore, two plants,
which alone might deferve a Botanift's journey
to Egypt. With refpcdl to the former, 1 have with
tolerable eafe collected every thing that was ne-
ceiTary ; but the latter has given me more trouble.
This is a tree which in its fructification, manner
of growing, living and dying, is doubtlefs one of
the moft Angular in the vegetable kingdom, I
have opened, not hundreds, but thoufands of its
figs (Receptacula) before I could get an idea of
its frud-ification ; I have however at length acquir-
ed fome infight with refpe6l to it : it has herma-
phrodite and male flower cups diftind: one from
the other, as the common fig ; but the latter dif-
fer

424 LETTERS,

fer much from this. An in fed called Cynips hath its
dwelling and works in the male flower cups, but
whether it ever enters the hermaphrodite cups, and
whether it contributes any thing towards its fecun-«.
dation, I have much reafon to doubt j I fhall however
make fome farther enquiry with refped to this.
It is alfo fingular in this plant, that the male cups
are ufeful, and may be eaten ; but the herma*
phrodites ferve for no ufe.^ juil the reverfe of the
common fig : I fhall, pleafe God, fend a cutting
of this tree to Upfala garden next year, together
with plaintain, Chrift's thorn, &c.

I WOULD fpeak of the Plantain-cree or Mufa, the
queen of plants, but it commands me to be filent, as
it has had the good fortune to be completely de-
fcribcd by the greateft mafter. 1 will however men-
tion an odd ftory, which is taken for granted by the
Egyptian gardeners : they fay, that it can be pro-
duced by planting the kernel of a Date in the root
of Colocajta, and that this was its firfl: origin ; a
fingular hiftory of creation. I afked them, whe-
ther they ever made trial, as they fo obftinately
defended the truth of it •, but they anfwered no,
and that it was not worth while, as the plant
grows fo freely without culture ; et fabulofa jwvant.
About this rime we daily eat ripe Dates. I wifli
it were pofiible to get lome bafl<;ets of them x.0
Upfala, as I with joy could fend them. In Europe,
we feem to envy the feHcity of the people who en-
joy thefe fruits. I confefs they are good to tafte
once or twice -, but though I have got over the age
when fuch things pleafe mod, yet I would gladly
give two bufhels of Dates for half a bufhel of good
Swedifh apples, and am perfuaded, I fhould find
thoufands in Egypt ready to make the fame ex-
change. Afpks are fcarce here ; they are brought

hither

LETTERS. 425

liither from mount Sinai, where the Grecian
Monks have delightful orchards full of the iineft
apple and pear-trees, whence without doubt the
iineft varieties we have in Europe were firft brought.
According to ail appearance, I fhall remain
in Egypt all the winter, though I could wifh to
leave this land of flavery as foon as poffible. It
is very difagreeable to travel in Egypt. This
country is governed by rebels who have been
flaves ; it may therefore be eafily imagined, what
order and police is kept up here ; a Chriftian can
fcarcely be more defpifed, and worfe treated in any
place than this. 1 think no affront can be more
grating, than that a Chrifiian is not permitted to
ride on any creature but an afs -, and to encreafe
the affront, muft alight from his afs when he meets
one, who was perhaps a few days before a rob-
ber, but for his fldll in murdering, is made com-
mander in a place over a number of rebellious
foldiers. This is our cafe daily, and to avoid all
the trouble to which we are expofed, we muft live
as it were in a kind of civil arreft, keeping within
our chambers, and when we intend to go out in
the town or country, commit ourfelves to the
hands of foldiers, who conduft us with ftaffs and
pikes through their villainous brethren. So that
to travel to Cairo, and live there for fome time,
is like doing penance for crimes. I am however,
always in a merry humour, and the lingular life
of Cairo gives me frequent opportunities for va-
rious pleafant refle6lions, which pafs the time away.
It is poffible I may this winter, have an op-
portunity of travelling to Upper Egypt, in com-
pany with fome Englifh gentlemen, who are ex-
' peded hither. If it happens, I am fure it will
amply reward my labour.

A a I INTEND

426 LETTERS.

I INTEND next fpring to fee firfl: Palseftine,
then Syria, mount Lebanon, and other remarka*
ble places*, I hope to perform this tour with greater
eafe, in a country where the Franks are more re-
garded, and are at more Hberty. I wifh I had been
empowered to purchafe Arabian manufcripts for
our library, as the moft curious are to be had here
at a reafonable rate. Other nations have got e-
nough from hence ; through the acquaintance I
have made with fome learned Arabians, I have
got fome on Phyfic and Natural Hiftory. I
could with much eafe ferve our Library in this af-
fair, if I were defired and fupplied wherewith to
do It. I remain, &c.

A List of the Obfervations which Dr. Hafielquift
made, and had already finifhed, and were by
him defigned for Profeflbr Linnaeus.

1. Obfervations and remarks on the Tape-worm
in Egypt.

2. The caufe of the Egyptians difeajes of th&
eyes.

3. The defcription of a kind of eruption or
fcab at the flowing of the Nile.

4. Of the balfam of Mecca, its country, the
tnethod of knowing it, with its ufes in the Eaft,
its adulteration, and a defcription of the tree.

5. The ufe of the Mumies for phyfic in Egypt.

6. An unexpefted ufe of Gum arabic, when it
for the fpace of two months fupported feveral
thoufand fouls.

7. The preparation of Sal armonaic in Egypt,
fent to the Royal Academy of Sciences.

8. The preparation of C^^^^/y?///^.

9. The ufe of locufts for food in Egypt.

10. The

LETTERS. 427

10. The ufe of the Date-tree in the ceconomy
©f the Egyptians.

11. How Indigo is manufa<5tured in Egypt.

12. The cultivation of Saffiower in Egypt.

13. The cultivation of Rice in Egypt.

14. Mimofa{Arahis Lebheck.) Egyptian Acacia
defcribed, and fent to the Royal Academy of
Sciences at Upfala.

15. The Natural Hiftory of the fcripture fyca-
more.

17. Two new fpecies of goofe-foot (Chenopo-
dium) in Egypt.

18. A defer iption of the Chrift thorn by the.
Arabs, called Nabca.

19. Chenna^ and its ufe for dying yellow.

21. A few Stones of a fingular kind.

22. A defcription of all the Petref anions m the
Eg/'"tian Pyramids.

23. The Strata of the earth in Egypt.

25. Two fpecies of Bees defcribed.

26. Pharaon^ an animal (Ichneumon) which goes
in the houfes like cats, and every thing curious
relating to it.

27. A fpecies oi Rats, which have a head like
a hare, a fnout like a hog ; a body like a rat, tail
like a lion •, can never touch the ground with their
fore feet, but hop like graflioppers, and live in
the mountains between Egypt and Arabia. The
whole defcription of this very wonderful creature
is fent to the Royal Academy of Sciences at Upfala.

28. Camelo pardalis^ the camel deer, which has
fcarce been feen by any other except Bellonius,
with its whole defcription, fent to the Royal Aca-
demy of Sciences.

29. A Parrot^ the prettied of its kind.

30. A little Do tteril from Alexandria,

A a 2 32. CafuariuS}

428 LETTERS.

31. The oftrich and its tribe, with the fnipes.

32. Cafuarins,3. very fmall kind of oftrich from
Damiata.

33. A Pigeon^ with ftraighc and ered feathers on
its back.

34. A curious 'Turtle-dove, common in Egypt.
38. Four forts of 6'^r^^;^/j, well diftinguilhed by

their Scuta abdominalia amongft thefe are the
Cerajles alpini^ or the true AJps and Jaculus or Ser-
pens Evse, which have never been defcribed before.

40. Two Lizards defcribed in Egypt.

41. The Lizard Gecko, which through the feet
emits a dangerous poifon.

43 . The defcription of the fucking fiOi and SaV'
daigne.

^5. Twelve Fijhes from the Nile, making as
many new genus's.

56. The Dermejles which confumes dates.

57. Cerambyx niloticus. The Capricorn beetle of
Egypt.

58. A butterfly, from the fubterranean pafTages
at Alexandria.

60. Two fingular new genus's of Infe3fs»

75. Fifteen new fpecies of Infe5ls.

76. The Cancer cur for of Bellonius^ or a crab,
which runs on the (hore.

77. The Pifmires, which run in the fand near
the Egyptian Pyramids.

78. The little Pi/mire, which keeps in the
houfes at Cairo, and is one of the feven plagues of
Pharaoh.

79. An African fccrpon.

These and much more Mr. Haflfelquifl: has al-
ready amply defcribed in Egypt.

December,

LETTERS. 429

December, 29, 1750.

THE 6th of laft Odtober was one of my
happieft days, as I on that day received both
your letters, one dated the 27th of February, the
other the 20th of April, and both forwarded to
me by Conful Rydelius.

I AT the fame time received Counfellor Carle-
fbn's bill for 130 ducats in fpecie, which werefent
me to the Levant. Thefe were agreeable tidings,
efpecially as the Counfellor was pleafed to add,
that more might be got. None in Sweden knows
better than Mr. Cariefon, how expenfive it is to
live in the Levant, even for thofe, who will live
moft fparingly, to do which I ufe my bed endea-
vours. My long flay in Egypt has coft me mo-
ney enough; but I fhould never have dared to
tarry here fo long, if I had not found other means
of fupporting myfelf, than with the public money;
an affair for which I am to thank fortune, as I got
by it an opportunity of accomplifhing my pur-
pofe, which was to inform myfelf of the Natural
Hiitory of this remarkable country. Perhaps I
fhould never have come to Egypt, if I had not
got this opportunity ; at leafr, I could not have
lived here all the feafons of the year, without which
little could have been done here, in regard to the
objefts of my enquiries. Next to your kind care,
I with profound refpecl acknowledge myfelf in-
debted to the moll reverend Archbilhop's, the
Faculties of Divinity and Philofophy, Counfellor
Carlefon's, and to the other gentlemen's bounty,
who contributed to defray the expences of this
journey. Wherefore I moft earneflly requell, that
you will pleafe to prefent them my moil humble
thanks, and alTure them, that I fhall have no-
thing more at heart, than to fhow to the world,
A a 3 than

430 LETTERS,

how much free gifts from Swedes can contribute
to the encreafe of Science.

The news you were pleafed to favour me with,
from the botanical world, were as many refrefli-
ments to me in a country, which inftead of Eu-
phorbus*s, Mefues and Avicennas, is filled with a
number of Fortune-tellers, and ftrolling quacks,
and where, inftead of the Alexandrian Library,
one fees millions of murdering fabres and pikes:
a country, in which a traveller has need of ail the
comfort he can get. 1 lament the death of the
Librarian Mr. Norrelius •, I had feveral conferences
with this learned man before my departure, about
the animals mentioned in the fcriprures, in which
he had great knowledge : I wifh I could have con-
tinued them to him after my return, when I hope
to have fome knowledge in that matter as a Natu-
ral Hiftorian. The great age of Dodor Celfius
puts me in fear, that I Iball likewife lofe the ad-
vantage I wifh to have, at my return, to fubmit to '
this great man's judgment, the obfervations I have
made on the fcripture plants.

I HOPE that my defcriptions of, and obfervations
on, the Cornucopia (horn of plenty grafs) Panor-
fa Coa Cervus Camelopardalis, (camel deer,) Mus
Jaculus (jumping moufe), Sec &c. which I had
the honour to fend you from time to time, partly
from Smyrna, partly from Egypt, have come
fafe to hand. The Herpes aleppina^ the hiftory
of which I fenttothe King's Phyfician, Dr. Bseck,
is a very remarkable endemical difeafe in Aleppo,
and I believe not yet taken notice of by any Phy-
fician, The attention, which I know the Royal
Academy of Sciences paid to the obfervations
made m feveral places about the decreafe of the
fca, hath encouraged me to fend my opinion of it

to

LETTERS. 431

to Secretary Elvius. I know not how far this a-
ble Mathematician is inclined to this fyftem ; but
I am almofl aflured, that thofe who have feen the
proofs of the decreafe of the water, which I have
obferved on my travels, cannot avoid being con-
firmed in this remarkable hypothecs, which you
and the late Profeflbr Celfius laid before the
public with obfervations. I have at prefent the
honour to fend you a colledion, fmgular in its
kind, like the country from which ir is fent. It
confills of Serpents and Liza'rds^ terrible animals,
and the proper native produ6lions of Egypt ;
which can only pleafe thofe who ftudy and know
Nature. I have not forgot with what care ycu bid
me get fome knowledge of the H^emorrhois^ Dipfas,
AjpiSy Seps^ &c. of the ancients, of which we know
nothing; but lament, that notwithftanding allthe
pains I took, to get fome information about thefe
terrible animals of the ancients, I have not fuc-
ceeded with more than Seps and Afpis, which ac-
cording to the information I got, are one and the
fame ferpent. The account is this : on the ifland
of Cyprus, there is a ferpent by the modern Greeks
called ^(rTrrA.^ it is fhort, feldom above a foot long,
but of an difproportioned thicknefs, fometimes as
thick as a man's arm. The poifon of this is the
moft terrible of any known in the Eaft. When a
man is bit by it he falls into a {lumber, by de-
grees changed into profound fleep, which within
twenty four hours becomes eternal, without any
violent fymptoms or other figns of death, than
that the pulfe grows weak by degrees, and the
whole body becomes of a blackifh yellow colour
in a moment, and within the next twenty four
hours, rots as if aiFeded with a gangrene.

A a 4 Do

432 LETTERS.

Do not we then find in one and the fame ler-
pent, the qualities of two of the Ancients ? I mean
^fpis^ which killed fo eafy •, and Seps^ which killed
in a very fhort time, with the like terrible fymp-
toms, and effects as this does to this day.

Have not the Ancients, who never gave com-
plete defer iptions of thofe curiofities in Nature, of
which they might have left us any account, and in
which the name, characters, or defcriptions are ei-
ther omitted, or made and given in fuch a manner,
as rather to confound the Reader, than to inftrufb
him ? Have they not perhaps, I fay, given two
names to one animal, becaufe it had tv/o different
qualities ? Examples of this kind are not wanting.

It is^ very poffible, that the Seps of Lucan is
the fame as the Afpis of Horace ; both have in-
formed us of their effefts -, but neither of them has
given us any defcription. I therefore conceive it
is laudable to endeavour, by the informations which
Natural Hiftory affords us, to explain their mean-
ing, as they do not always exprefs their thoughts
fo clearly as to be comprehended by their Readers.

1 HAVE the honour to fend three defcriptions oS
the ferpents I found in Egypt : the firft is the viper
of Egypt. Ifthishar. been completely defcribed
before, the viper of the fhops would be known-, if
not, this famous viper has to this day been un-
known. I have always been of the opinion that our
common viper {Coluber 'vulgaris Fn. fuec) was the
fame with the viper of the fhops, but I changed
my opinion, as foon as I faw how much the viper,
from which the Venetians carry pver all that is re-
quired in the Hiops, differs in number of fcutas
and fquamas, head and tail, and appearance from
that which is found with us. The true vipera
ffficinaiiSt 1 fuppofe, is- fcarcely met with in Italy,

as

LETTERS. 42S

as it has from time immemorial been carried from
Egypt to Venice, from whence its preparations are
fent all over Europe.

The fecond is a horned viper {Coluber Cerafies.) I
have found two ferpents with horns in Egypt of
different genus's, as the one is a Inake, ' {Anguis)
and the other a viper {Coluber.) As different as they
are with regard to their genus, fo different are
they alfo with refped: to their horns ; thofe of the
former, are two large teeth, which bore through
the cranium, fo that their bafis ferves for teeth,
and the upper pointed parts of them for' horns -,
Whereas thofe of the latter are only two Iharp
points faftened to the head.

I SHALL not abfolutely determine which of
thefe Alpinus means by the name of Ccraftes, of
which he has given a bad figure, and a worfe de-
fcription, I am apt to believe, that he has them
both under one name, as they both have horns. It
was in this manner, that in former times they
thought it fufRcient to reprefent natural beings, by
giving a figure without any defcription, to draw in
a ftrikin^, manner, what would excite the curiolity
of the common people ; for example, a ferpent
with horns ; fo that no attention was paid to the
wife inftitutes of nature, before our Linnseus
taught us to open our eyes in beholding and dif-
tinguifliing her with clearnefs and precifion. The
third is the before mentioned anguis dentibus mala"
ribus cranium ■perforantibus.

1 HAVE found aconfiderable number of Lizards,
the other branch of this terrible tribe ; but moil
of them were known before, except fome few
fmall ones, which I found in the burning fand in
thedefart: there is noplace wherein fome kind of
Jiving creature is not appointed to dwell. That

which

434 LETTER S.

which I have the honour to fend I have preferred
to the reft, as it is the only one I know, of which
has hitherto been ufed, but was neverthelefs un-
known both to Naturalifts and Phyficians.

This Hzard is the true Scinky which is found
in plenty in the mountains between Arabia and
Egypt, it is caught in great numbers by the Egyp-
tian peafants, dried and fold to the Venetians in
Cairo, who export a large quantity of it over to
Europe. I had this alive, as well as every thing
elfe which I have hitherto defcribed.

I HAVE likewife prefer ved every thing hitherto
by me defcribed, partly in fpirits of wine, partly
ituffed, with which I intend to increafe the natu-
ral colleftion at Upfala, if God permits me to
return home. At the beginning of next year, I
intend to fend fome things over to you, viz. The
feeds Behen Nux^ CaJJla Gopher, and feveral others,
amongft the reft a ftuffed oftrich.

Before I leave Egypt, I likewife intend to
fend to Upfala garden fome trees, as Alhenna^
fcripture Sycamore^ the buckthorn^ of which the
crown of Chrift was made, CalTia fiftula, the Plan-
tain tree, &c. They fiiall be fent by way of Leg-
horn, to Stocholm, addreffed to Mr. Grill. If it
be poffible, I (hall Ihortly make ajourney to movint
^inai. I have already been on the way to it, but
was kept back by the excurfions of the Arabians.
If the fcheme, which I have in view, turns out
well, I hope to attain my wifties and fee this fa-
mous place with fafety.

I SHALL after that begin my journey early in
the fpring for Palaeftine, and take fuch meafures,
that I may be on mount Lebanon in the moft fuir-
able feafon of the year. After that, no place in
the Levant remains, which I want to fee, except

Con-

LETTERS. 435

Conftantinople, from which city I could wifh to
return again to ir»y native country.

Cairo, February i8, 1751.

AT the fame time, I have the honour to write
to you by way of Leghorn, I fend addrefled
to Mr. Grill, a fmall colle6tion of natural curiofi-
ties, of which I have here enclofed a lift.

Seeds of

CafTia fiftula from lower Egypt.
Caffia, (Arab. Kefchta) from Arabia.
Caffia, (Ar. Sopher) from Upper Egypt.
Nux Behen from Upper Egypt and Sinai.
Cordia Sebeften from Upper Egypt.
Rhamnus, (Ar. Nabk)from Lower Egypt.
Cucumis (Ar. Abdellavi) from Cairo.
Mimofa nilotica. The true Acacia.
Lawfonia fpinofa. Alhenna.
Preferved Dates in two large veffels covered with
leather.

The Male flower of the Date.

The Web (Tela) covering the bafis of the leaves.

Stones.

Silex, a Flint which is opake, and variegated

from the deferts of Egypt.
— — femipellucid with a variegated ftrata..

Onyx ?
— - femipellucid and unicolor (of one colour)

from the deferts of Arabia.
Melon^ from mount Carmel.
Argllla^ a fandy clay, which is yearly depofited
by the Nile.

Animals.

43^ LETTERS.

Animals.
A Vulture with a naked head, defcribed.
Oftracion, a fifh with a blown up belly, defcribed.
Papilio Sulianus, the Sultan Butterfly.

Mifcellaneous Things.

Vejfels made of clay, hardened by the heat of the
fun, for drinking cold liquors, from Mecca and
Cairo.

Opobalfamum genuinum, or true balfam of Mecca
Il>fs ; with Carolus Linnseus wrote in Arabian
letters.

They are partly for your table, and partly for
your Mufasum. For the former I have deftined
two vefTels of dates, which 1 have had prepared
in fuch a manner that I hope they will keep. And
I fhall efteera myfelf happy, if you think the other
fmall coile£lions worthy a place in the latter.

1 HAVE fent as many feeds, as I have myfelf
been able to collefl from the trees themfelves. I
wifh they may come fafe, for I fee, that it is al-
mofl impofTible to fend trees alive from Egypt to
Sweden. I have had all the rare trees here taken
up, and planted in pots, in hopes of fending them
to you, by way of Marfeilles or Leghorn, but
they die notwithftanding all imaginable care ; what
would then become of them during fo long a voy-
age, their freight would be very expenfive,for water
is a dear commodity when bought of a failor.
The v/onderful fycamore, the fruftification of
which has puzzled me more than any thing f
have yet ken in Nature. This, I fay, I hope will
arrive at Upfala ; I have two in readinefs that
promife well, which I intend to fend by way of
Marfeilles, addrefTed to Mr. Grill.

I HAVE

LETTERS. 437

I HAVE the honour to fend you a defcrlption of
the Egyptian vulture^ a fifh of the genus of Oftra-
cion and a Molh ; the firft I have tranflated into
Swedifh from my Latin manufcript, to give it in-
to the Royal Academy of Sciences. If you will
favour Counfellor Cariefon with the defcription
of the fifh, he will perhaps, as a curious gentle-
man, read it with pleafure.

I HAVE lately been employed in anatomizing a
-crocodile, of which I fhall have the honour to give
you an account.

The parts of the Vifcera, which I think deferve
the greateft attention in a crocodile, are the Veji-
cul.'i fellea (Gall bladder) and Pancreas. The wife
laws of the Creator, which Mt concealed in ail his
works, that man may give himfelf the trouble
to fearch for them, appear in a particular manner
in the parts abovementioned.

It is well known, that the crocodile is a carnivo-
rous voraclou- an-mal; and I believe more fo than
any other rapacious animal whatever 5 it cannot
chew, but muft fwallow every thing whole, for
though it can open its jaws extremely wide, yet
it cannot move them fide ways. For fuch a diet,
and this manner of eating, there was certainly oc-
cafion for ftrong menflrua to promote digeilion :
thefe it is fupplied with, in proportion to its fize,
more amply than any other animal. A crocodile,
which I opened, three foot and a half long, had
a gall bladder as big as a hen's egg, which con-
tained three ounces of gall, thick, of a fine eme-
rald green colour, and more bitter than any thing
I have yet had on my tongue. The Pancreas was
five inches long and four broad, and all its plicse
or folds v/ere filled with a yellowiOi and fomevvhat
frothy liquid. Both appeared to me larger than

thofe

438 LETTERS.

thofe in an ox, but with refped to the other parts
of thefe animals, they are not to be compared to-
gether. His gut, which is quite rigid or ftifF, and
compofed of ftrong thick membranes, is fo narrow,
that a fmall goofe-quill can fcarcely enter it ; it is
alfo remarkable, that the Inteftinum redum is
neareft to the pylorus, whereas in other animals it
is clofe to the anus ; the crocodile's redtum is filled
with excrements, which return the fame way they
came in, the narrow gut ferving only to convey
the chyle.

I HAVE now had the pleafure for a month toge-
ther of feeing the method in which the Egyptians
hatch chickens in ovens. Nothing can be more
amufing to behold, or eafy to perform than this
operation, which the ancient Egyptians learned
from the crocodile and oftrich. It is pleafant e-
nough to fee an oven full of eggs, from whence
hop out in a moment many thoufand new inhabi-
tants into our world, without a midwife, and I
had almoft faid without a mother -, flie has at leaft
no concern in bringing them forth. This is fo eafy
to perform, that 1 am perfuaded, every old wo-
man with us might do it in her ftove, if fhe were
told it was poflible, and a few ounces of fuperfti-
tion was added. They might be done to great
advantage with us, and afford in the large towns
plenty of fo agreeable a difh, as broth made with
fowls is, efpecially if made in the Swedifh manner.
How much time and trouble does it take to have
6000 chickens hatched in the natural way ? And
thefe come forth in Egypt in a month's time, with-
out any farther trouble, except that one perfon
takes care to turn the eggs and heat the oven.

The tafte of the fowls fo hatched, does not
quite equal that of thofe hatched in the natural

way J

LETTERS. 440

way *, Art would gain too much on Nature, could
it equal her in her perfedions. It is reafonable,
that the latter (hould always retain its precedence.
The difference is, that the Egyptian fowls hatched
in an oven are always more dry, and have not
the juice, which gives that agreeable tafte to thofe
hatched in the natural way. This difference may
likewife be partly owing to the manner in which
they are fed, which, conlidering the number and
cheapnefs of them here, cannot be fo proper as in
Europe. The Egyptian fowls are fed, as indeed
are almofl all their poultry, with beans, which are
never given to any of thefe creatures with us, as we
muft feed them with good corn, if we exped a
palatable dilh.

They are however good in Egypt, and much
better than I imagined, from accounts I had re-
ceived of them in Europe, and what recommends
them, is, the reafonable price, which is fcarcely to
be found in any other place. I have (befides what
I obferved in the bringing up of the young ones,
myfelf ) received a defcription of it from Achmia,
a little town in Upper Egypt, which is the com-
pleateft, if I am not miftal<.en, that has as yet been
made public. I Ihall have the honour to commu-
nicate it to you at a proper time.

I FORGOT an obfervation, when I fpoke of the
crocodile, which I made for the fervice of our Di-
vines. I ferve them with pleafure, they are my
patrons.

Job afks, chap. xli. ver. i. Canft thou draw
out the Leviathan with a hook ? I conclude, he
means the crocodile by that which happens daily,
and without doubt happened at his time in the
river Nile, viz. that this voracious animal, far
from being drawn up with a hook, bites off, and

deftroys

4iO L E T T E R Si

deftfoys all fifhing tackle of this kind, which are
thrown out in the river. I found in one that I
opened, two hooks which it had fwallowed, one
flicking in his ftomach, and the other in a part of
the thick membrane which covers his palate.

H o w is it poflible, that Job could by the
Leviathan mean the. Whale, as leveral have
explained his term, and as has lately done a
French Author, who, in his language, wrote the
works of the fix days ; when we refled on what
Job and David have faid of the works of the Crea-
tor ? How, I fay, could he fpeak of an animal,
which never was feen in the place where he wrote,
and at a time when he certainly could have no
hiftory of Greenland and Spitzbergen ? Befides,
the whole defcription of Job comes much nearer
the crocodile than the whale, if we confider, that
he wrote in a figurative oriental ftyle,

I INTEND foon to depart from hence for Palse-
ftine, and there enjoy the fpring. I have been a
fufficient time in Egypt, and thank God, have
difpofed well of my time in this remarkable coun-
try, which ought to be the dwelling of the Gods,
if they could take a place amongft mortals ; but
is condemned, I know not by what turn of for-
tune, to harbour Egyptians. I beg you will fa-
vour me with a few lines, which I could get in
Conftantinople at our Envoys, Mr. Celfing's
houfe, or in Smyrna, at Conful Rydelius's. I have
frequent informations from the latter, of the moll
material afi^airs which happen in my native coun-
try j but I cannot expe6t any thing from him but
politics : the learned are of more confequence to
me, and of thefe I exped news from your good-
nefs. I (houid be in particular pleafed to hear who
fucceeded Di\ Wallerius, as Profeflbr extraordinary

in

LETTERS. 441

in the Faculty of Phyficians, after he was appoint- .
ed ProfefTor of Chemiftry. 1 conjedlure, it is one
of my companions.

Mr. Rydelius is alfo very curious, and what
is moft material, as it happens fo feldom, his at-
tention is to Natural Hiftory. This is plaia
from by his collection of birds, which is the beil
in the Levant, and will in a few days be encreaf-
ed with divers rare birds from Ethiopia, Nubia,
and Arabia •, thofe I find here, I fliall fend alive to
Smyrna, after I have kept them a long time v/ith
me, to learn and obferve their nature and manner
of living, and defcribed them. Amongft thefe is
the beautiful Guiney hen^ which I have got from
Abyflinia, a bird, greatly to be admired for the
regular manner in which the feathers are marked,
■with its crefh or comb on the head, and for its
Ihrill creaking voice, which is fo piercing, that I
thought I felt it affeCling me in my very brain, ia
the fame manner, as certain harfh notes on fome in-
ftruments, (Irung with wire. It would certainly be
admired in Europe, if it had not the misfortune,
like the Peacock, to be already common, efpecialiy
in Malta and France. In time, fome of them may
come to Sweden, if fortune willfavour their journey.

Cyprus, Augufc 8, 1757.

I HAVE nov/ the honour to write from Cy-
prus, where I arrived a few days ago, havino-
travelled through Judea, part of Arabia Petrea^
Samaria, Galilee and great part of Syria.

A s there is a vefiel going this day for Mar-
feilles, I embrace the opportunity, of Ihewing my
duty to you, by writing this letter, though [ have
no time to tranfmit any of my obfervations. I
cannot, however, but mention the Quail of the

B b Ifrac-Utes;

442 LETTERS:

Ifraelites ; this is a new fpecies of Tetrao, which I
found at Jordan, and in the wildernefs near the
mountains of Arabia Petrsea. This QLiail, very
much refembles the red partridge, but is not larger
than a turtle dove. I expeft, in a few days, to get
a fcore of them -alive, which were promifed me by
a perfon at Jerufalem, whither the Arabians carry
many thoufands to fell at Whitfuntide.

If Natural Hiftory can give any information in
the interpretation of the Bible, this bird is certainly
the fame with the Quails of the Ifraelites, and they
alone would deferve a journey to Jordan •, for my
parr, I was fo pleafed with this difcovery, as to
forget myfelf, and almoft loft my Hfe, before I
could get one of them into my pofleffion.

I SHALL write more particularly and fend to you
feveral obfervations before I depart from Cyprus. ,

Smyrna, Auguft 29, 1751.

FTER I had returned from my travels

thro' Egypt and Palseftine, I was in hopes

to write to you by this time from Conftantinople,
to which place I had already began my journey
from Syria ; but Heaven,which has this year poured
over that place all the plagues, which its wrath
had in ftore, has for a time prevented my defign
of vifiting that city.

For thefe three months paft there has been a
plague in Conftantinople, which fometimes has
taken off 10 or 12,000 fouls a day : a fire which
lafted for twenty four hours, and reduced to afties
many thoufand houfes, and amongft others, the
Guard-houfe of the Janiffaries : an earthquake,
attended by a ftorni of hail, which deftroyed, by
common report, 40,000 boats, and killed a num-
ber

LETTER S. 443

ber of the rowers : an infurre6tion amongft the
foldiers, which threatens the fubverfion of the go-
vernment, nor is famine wanting to complete their
miferies. Thefe are fufficient reafons to deter
a traveller from going thither ; but as foon as
I am informed, that the Almighty has withdrawn
the rod, which he has extended over that city, I
purpofe vifiting it, and feeing what natural curio-
fities this famous place, which is lituated between ,
two feas, affords ; and afterwards, pleafe God, I
Ihall think of returning home.

Inclosed, I have the honour to tranfmit you
a defcriprion of the little Arabian Quail, which I
found near Jordan. I imagine, this bird to be
new, and not before defcribed. If the Wri-
ters on the fcripture can prove, that Selaw was a
bird, they may be afiured, that it was no other
than this 5 but I have reafon to beheve, that the
food in queftion of the Ifraelites, was neither bird
nor fifh, but rather infeds, and moft probably lo-
cufts.

It is not in the leaft probable, that Selaw was
the flying fifh ; how fhould the flying fifli, that
fcarce lifts itfelf a few yards above the furface of
the fea, and that only at fun-fet, come up into Ara-
bia Petrsa, and in fuch numbers, as to fupply the
whole camp of the Ifraelites ? If I fliould even per-
fuade myfelf, that the Mediteranean, at that time,
came up to the walls of Jericho, Which is now
three days journey diftant, yet I could not give
credit to it.

St. John's locufts, thofe fo often difputed lo-

cufl:s, come now at length in queftion. I have

the honour to fend a colledion of all the obferva-

tions I could get relating to this aff^air, which I have

B b 2 digefted

444 LETTER S:

digefted in order, to be inierted in the tranfadions
of the Royal Academy of Sciences.

I SHALL leave Writers on the fcriptures the liber-
ty to make what they pleafe of St. John's a>i^i^£g,
calling them the Gemmae or buds of different
kinds of trees, according to the old Grecian Fa-
therlfioderus Felufiotai the fruit of the Crab-tree,
according to fome Interpreters -, or birds, as fome
Calvinifts imagined ; but it is certain that this hy-
pothefis is fuch, that ^Eiianus, Thucydides, De-
mofthenes or Anftotle, could never know their
meaning. I am of opinion, that if any Interpreter
of the fcriptures fhoLild afTert, that the a,x^i7sg of St.
John are not locufts, and draw this conclufion,
that Si. John did not eat locufts^ becaufe they have
never been eaten by any nation -, he ought to make a
pilgrimage to thofe places v/here they are eat at
this day j I am perfuaded he would not long re-
main an unbeliever in this m.atter.

Before I quit this fubje6l of locufts, I will im-
part to you fome obfervations I have made on
thefe infeds, which for feveral years have afforded
fo much matter for difpute in Europe, that it is
become well worth our attention to fet this affair
in a clear light.

(i.) The gralliopper or locuft is not formed for
travelling over the fea ; 1 had an opportunity of
obferving this on my return from Cyprus to
Smyrna. As we were becalmed for fome days on
the coaft of Carmania, we daily got fome graf-
hoppers on board from the continent, and I then
had the pleafure of feeing what miferable iailors
thefe infedts are. The locuft has, like the lark,
a quality from Nature, that it it cannot fiy far,
but muft alight almoft as foon as it rifes. If they in-
tend, I know not by what inftind, to fly over a fea

or

LETTERS. 445

or river, they find their attempt fucceed no better
than the lark, of which 1 believe I have given you
an inftance before, which I obferved on the Spanifh
coaft, where I fawhow miferably this bird perifhed,
when it intended to come on board us. I faw
the fame happen to the locufts, and for one that
came on board, lOO were certainly drowned,
though we were but a piftol-fhot from the fliore.
But better proofs of this are yearly feen at Smyrna,
when they attempt to fly acrofs the fea, after they
over-run the country near it. We obferve in
the months of May and June, a number of thefe
infects coming from the fouth, directing their
courfe to the northern fhore -, they darken the
flcy like a thick cloud, but fcarcely have they quit-
ted the fhore, before they, who a moment before
ravaged and ruined the country, cover the furface
of the fea with their dead bodies, which occafions a
great nuifance to the Franks, who have their bal-
conies near the harbour, on account of theftench
which proceeds from fuch a number of dead infefts,
as they are by the winds driven clofe to the very
toufes. By what inftindl do thefe creatures under-
take this dangerous flight ? Is it not the wife in-
ftitution of the Creator, to deftroy a dreadful
plague to the country ? Has the like defl:ru6lion to
the locufts been obferved during their flight to
Europe for feveral years pafl: ? Could they not by
fright, or feme other method, be turned from their
dreadful courfe, to ftecr for fome river, and by that
means be obliged to deftroy themfelves, as they
cannot be overcome by any other means?

(2.) But if locufts cannot fly over a fea of any

extent, how could they come from the continent

to Cyprus, which is entirely deftroyed by Turks

and locufts ? Could they not at Iqall come

B b 3 in

446 L E T T E R S.

in veflels from the continent of Syria, having Iain
concealed during the voyage ? But how then came
they to Roflagia,as you were pleafed tofliew me be-
fore my departure from Upfala ? Could it be done
in any other manner but by fhips from Dantzick,
or fome place adjacent, where they infefted the
country that fummer ? Would it not therefore be
proper, that all mailers of fhips fnould be obliged
to take care, left they bring over fuch a deftru6live
vermin ? This ought to be done in the fame ftridl
manner, as is now pradifed to prevent the plague
from fpreading.

(3.) I know of no one Europe who has made
fufficient obfervations, relating to the migration of
locufts : of the place from whence they firft fet
out, and of the courfe they take. I have had an
opportunity of making the following in Afia and
Africa.

The locufts, according to all appearance, feem
to be directed by the fame natural inftind: as the
Alpine rat {Mus Lemmus, Lin.) in a dired; me-
ridian line, by keeping nearly from fouth to
north, as the other does from north to fouth,
turnino- very little either to the call or weft ; they
come from the defarts of Arabia, take their courfe
over thro' PaL'eftine, Syria, Carmania, Natolia, go
fometimes through Bythinia by Conftantinople,
and continue their journey through Poland, &c.
as has happened in thefe latter years. They never
turn from their courfe, for example, to the weft,
wherefore Egypt is not vifited by them, though
fo near their ufual track. The locufts therefore,
are not to be reckoned amongft this country's
plagues in our times, as they were when Mofes
lived thefe, tho' frogs, lice, cock-roaches, gnats,
and all the vermin, which are mentioned amongft

the

LETTERS. 447

the plagues of Pharoah, torment the inhabitants
and travellers in this country to this very day. Nei-
ther do they turn to the eaft, for I never heard that
Mefopotamia, or the confines of the Euphrates,
were ravaged by them. None but thofe countries
of Afia which 1 mentioned, viz. Arabia, Pateftine,
Syria, Carmania, and fometimes the fea coafts of
Natolia, are infefted with them yearly, either more
or lefs.

I DO not know whether the fame generation of
locufts which comes, from Arabia can come to
Europe, or whether it is the fecond or third gene-
ration. It might ealily be known, if obfervations
were made in two different places, when they are
at either of them ; and perhaps that would be to
fome purpofe, as it might furniih means todeflroy
them, or at lead, leffen their number.

The inhabitants of Afia, as well as Europe,
fometimes take the field againft locufts with all
the dreadful apparatus of war. The Bafhaw of
Tripoli in Syria, fome years ago, raifed 4000 fol-
diers againft thefe infeds, and ordered thofe to be
hanged who refufed to go. Thus a miferable in-
fed, can put in motion an army of ftubborn Turks,
whom often an Ottoman Emperor with all his
power cannot oblige to go farther than they chufe.

Smyrna, Sept. 13, 1751?

1 Shall foon have the honour to fend you a
number of obfervations, which I made on the
Natural Hiftory of the Bible, on my travels in
Palffiftine. I have been particularly follicitous to
fearch for the great defigns which King Solomon
executed here, efpeciaily thofe that contained any
of the vegetable kingdom •, whether I could find
B b 4 an^

LETTERS.

any traces of his vineyards or gardens, of which
he fpeaks in the Scriptures ; for to attempt to illu-
ftrate that kind of Botany, which Solomon un-
derftood, I think is the fame as to look for the
place where the Tower of Babylon ftood ; though
it cannot be denied, but that Solomon knew much
more of Natural Hifiory, confidering the time
and circiimftances of the nation, over which he
reigned, than any other of thofe times. But to leave
his Botany, and return to his plantations ; there is
fjOw not the leaft trace remaining of them ; we
can judge by certain circumfbances, where one or
other of his pleafure gardens was fituated ; thus
have I found the fituatJon of his vineyard in En-
gedda^ in which he introduced vines from Cyprus^
to which he compares his beauty, in his Canticles,
ch. i. ver. 14. Here the Arabs have vineyards to
this day, and fell the wine to the Chriftians ; but
the vines are now fo degenerated, that they will
not produce the rich Cyprus wine. It was not
difficult for Solomon to get vines from Cyprus
and plant them, but Vv? hence did he get the
Khenifh vines, which he planted at Hebron, and
which grow there to this day, affording a Rhe-
nifh wine, equal to any, that Europe produces,
which I, and all the Franks who came to Jerufa-
lem, took be real Rhenilh wine ; the Latin Monks,
buy from the Arabs the fmall quantity, which they
make yearly at Hebron. This kind of wine does
not grow in any place of the Eaft, nor in the
Archipelago; perhaps this kind of grape has al-
ways grown w^ild in Pateftine, and was by Solo-
mon tranfplanted into his garden. Might not t^e
Europeans have got the firft vines from hence,
which they planted on the Rhine .? This feems
more probable, than that Solomon fhould have got

his

LETTERS. 449

his from Europe; it is alfo pofTible, that both have
the fame qualities, though the vines are of different
origins.

Smyrna, Sept. 22, 1751.^

IN my laft, of the 13th inftant, 1 promifed to
anfwer the queftions, you were pleafed to pro-
pofe to me, in your letter dated the i ith of Dec.
1750. 1 fliall now fulfil my duty, having an-
fwered fome in my preceding letters.

I HAD no opportunity of feeing the Gall-nuts of
the Tamarilk ; I have, however, feen a little
Jphis, that builds a neft between its leaves, but
this I cannot take to be a Gall.

Calaf, is a little Willow, which never grows to a
large tree ; it has a ftrait trunk, with a fmooth
oval lancet-lhaped leaf, deeply fawed on the edges.
No tree in Egypt is more famous amongft the
inhabitants, on account of the water that is diftilled
in the fpring from its blolToms, which is much
more ufed as a family medicine by the Egyptians,
than treacle by our peafants. They are fcarcely
afflicted with any difeafe, but they ufe the water
of Calaf. There are Apothecaries in Cairo, whofe
chief, and almoftonly employment, is to fell Calaf;
. for thus they likewife call the water. It is cooling,
promotes perfpiration, and is fomewhat cordial, it
therefore ferves in the continual fevers, which are
fo common in Egypt, during the fummer feafons.
I fuppofe it to approach neareft in quality to the
waters that are in Europe diftilled from the blof-
foms of Cherries, Limes, and Acacias.

I HAVE got enough of the fruit of Bahohah,
though I could neither fee the plant or flower, as
it only grows in the remoteft parts of Upper
Egypt, where it has been introduced from the
weftern parts of Africa.

I HERB

450 LETTERS.

I HERE fend inclofed, the flowers of ^fchyno-
mene Sefban (baltard fenfitive plant) which is ufed
for hedges round plantations, and affords an a-
greeable profped.

Jbfus^ is a CafTia. Sopher^ is likewife a CafTia,
of which I tranfmitted feeds, and in my laft letter
the defcription, together with that of the wild
Marjoram or ILatarhendi of Alpinus.

Kali III, of Alpinus, muft be a little fig mari-
gold (Mefembryenthemum) common in Egypt;
but it is fomewhat difficult to clear up the names
of Alpinus, efpecially all his Kali. 1 tranfmitted
the feeds of the Alhenna, amongft my colledion
of laft winter, and the feeds of the Plantain-tree,
were in my laft letter ; and the Gall fly of the
Scripture Sycamore, in my laft but one. I have
the jumping Moufe, in fpirits of wine, and all the
Egyptian fifties, of which I have fome preferved
and laid on paper, in the manner you taught me.

Mofes and Lichens are fca/ce enough, though
not entirely wanting in the Eaft. The Pyramids^
the oldeft buildings in the world, have no Lichenes
cruftacei^ which other wife are the common marks
of age j neither can they have them, for perhaps
there never fell a drop of rain on them, without
which, this kind of vegetable does not thrive.
All the kinds are to be found on the old walls of
Jerufalem ; and out of the wall at Solomon's
Well, there grows a little mofs ; may not this be
bis Hyfop ? It is, at leaft, as little, as the cedar is
large, and therefore the other extremity.

It is not long fmce I fent you the defcription of
the Egyptian Water lily (Nymphaeaj.

I HAVE defcribed the wonderful little Crab, the
Cancer curfor ; but who can conceive, why this lit-
tle animal comes up in fuch large numbers out of the

fea

L E T T E R Sk 451

fea at fun-fee, and runs on the fhore •, and why the
Dolphins and Flying-fiJh^2Lt the fame time^hftthem--
fel^^es above the furface of the fea ? It is probable,
that each of them has feme urgent reafon, which,
at prefentj we do not comprehend. As I was
travelhng from Tyre to Sidon, I followed the
fea-jfhore for two hours about fun-fet, and had
conftantly the pleafure to fee this htdecrab run by
hundreds to and from the fea. I caught feveral,
in order to fee whether I could find any thing
about them to carry food, but found nothing.
No creature can run fo fall:, in proportion, as
this. The moment one fees it two or three yards
from the fea, you obferve it to turn back and re-
turn into it.

You were pleafed to afk, how do the plants fub-
fifb in Egypt half a year without rain ? This feems
very odd to us in Europe, where we are ufed more
to wet than dry weather j but what fhall one
think, when I fay, that there are plants in Egypt,
which have lived 600 years, and perhaps have not
got 6 ounces of rain, in all that time, for nourifh-
ment ; this may with reafon be faid of the old Sy-
camores round Cairo and in Upper Egypt, where
perhaps, every fecond or third year, fall ten drops
of rain. But if the Egyptian plants want rain,
they do not therefore want water. The Nile,
the wonderful Nile, fingular in its kind, affords
that, which heaven denied them. The coun-
try of Egypt is a river from the beginning of Au-
guft to the latter end of Odober. A traveller com-
ing to Egypt at this time, and being unacquainted
with the true reafon for the overfiowing of the
water, would immediately conhder it as a mira-
cle in Nature. He would imagine he beheld a fea j
producing vegetables very different frcm Sar-

gazo.

452 LETTERS.

gazo, Fucus's Reeds, Rulhes, &c. He would
imagine he beheld, fpringing from the bottom of .
the fea. Sycamores, Buckthorn, Acacia, Caiiias,
Willows, and Tamarifks, which form fmall woods
or groves, above the furface of the water. This is
the genuine appearance of Egypt, whilft it is o-
verflown. Therefore the Egyptian plants, which
confift chiefly of evergreen trees, are in no want of
water, and art fupplies thofe which are deprived of
this benefit of Nature ; for the Egyptians are very
expert in hydraulics, and take great care to fupply
their gardens with water.

From this time, to the beginning of April, ano-
ther feafon fucceeds, the water is dried away, and
the whole country is covered with flime or mud,
depofited by the water, which makes Egypt a fruit-
country. The hufbandman then fows his corn
with lefs fweat, and more affurance of a plentiful
crop, than the Europeans ; this work is done in the
months of O<5tober and November-, then come
forth the fpontaneous plants of Egypt, which are
very few, fome indeed come up with the corn, but
their feeds mull have been tranfported thither by the
birds, as they are European. The trees then caft
their leaves, that is to fay, in the latter end of De-
cember and beginning of January, having young
leaves ready, before all the old ones are fallen
off-, and, to forward this operation of Nature, few
of the trees have buds (gemmae) -, the Sycamore
and Willows indeed have fome, but with few and
quite loofe ilipulse. Nature did not imagine buds
fo neceffary in the fouthern as in the northern coun-
tries i this occafions a great difference between
them.

The Plantain and Date tree, the riches and or-
nament of Egypt, alfo at this time prepare to

brins

LETTERS. 453

bring forth their valuable fruit. After the latter
has thrown off the lowermofl; old leaves, the new
ones fhoot out from the top, and at the fame time
the new Spatha come forth in the months of De-
cember and January ; at this period alfo, the
branches of flowers of the Plantain-tree appear.

This feafon concludes with the harveft, in the
month of April, and no figns are afterwards to be
feen of Egypt's having ftood under water the pre-
ceding year.

Egypt is not abfolutely deftitute of rain in the
months of November, December, January, Feb-
ruary and March ; but it muft be particularly ob-
ferved, that this does not extend farther than to
the fide nearer the Mediterranean fea; where it
rains fo hard fome years, efpecially ac Alexandria,
Rofetta and Damiata, as to occafion very cold
weather, to the great inconvenience of the inhabi-
^ tants ; it fometimes happens at Cairo, about this
time, that a fcatcered cloud lets fall a few drops of
rain in paiTing. This has been fcarcely obferved
by any traveller, therefore they have no true idea
of the Egyptian climate in Europe j fome faying
it rains there, others aiTerting the contrary, and
both are in the right. After harveft, and with
the month of May, begins a dreadful feafon in.
Egypt, a fummer, which makes the earth refem-
ble, in fome refpe6t, that of Norland in the months
of January and February. Then the earth ap-
pears full of fiffures, and, by the excelTive heat, is
brought into the fame fituation, that the feverefb
frofts occafion with us, but with this difference,
that the ruggedneis of our frozen earth, is concealed
by an ufefui and not difagreeable fnow, whereas the
parched earth of Egypt has no veil to hide its

oiilery.

454 LETTER S.

mifery, the fight of which every mortal dreads
to behold.

Egypt, two months before, well deferved a
journey from the north and fouth pole. According
to the accounts of fome travellers, with whom I
have converfed on the fubjedt, and who had feen
both the Indies, all Europe, the greateft part of
Afia, and the acceffible parts of Africa, there is
not fuch a glorious profpe6t to be feen under the
fun, as an Egyptian field, when the earth is in its
verdure, and efpecially if it can be beheld at that
fame time and from the fame place which I faw it,
namely, the latter part of December, from the
top of the higheft Pyramid, where I was in com-
pany with fome Englifhmen, feveral of whom had
travelled in the Eaft, others in the Weft Indies, in
Barbary, and in Europe.

Egypt, which is fo agreeable in our winter, is,
thus, to the higheft degree, horrible in our fummer.
The birds defert it, and fly to more northern
climes. The vegetable kingdom is in no better
fituation. The fpontaneous plants are withered, and
thofe they cultivate are removed; the Reft-harrow
and Succory alone remain ; of the former, thefe
flower in the ftrongeft heat, and amongft the lat-
ter, the banks of the Nile are covered with all kinds
of Melons, Cucumbers, and oily grain (Sefamum)
which ripens in the fields, where it is fown af-
ter the corn ; and this, I prefume, is the reafon,
that fome travellers fpeak of two and three har-
vefts in Egypt.

All Egypt however does not fufter alike from
the heat of the fummer. The rifing grounds about
Rofetta and Damiata are to be excepted, being
at this time covered with Rice, which is planted in
May, and harvefted in Odober, to effeft which,

the

LETTERS. 455

the water is carried with much labour from the
Nile. The inhabitants of thefe places have there-
fore the pleafure of beholding green fields, when
the Egyptians fee nothing but a parched earth ; but
they pay dear for their pleafure, for all the plagues
of Pharaoh, frogs, flies, gnats, &c. which delight
in putrid water and a moid earth, make their
dwellings almoft uninhabitable.

It is in this exceflive hot weather, that we mufl
admire the wifdom of God, who ordered that a
quantity of Dew lliould fall in the evenings and
mornings, and prevent the total deflruclion of the
country.

This Dew is particularly ferviceable to the trees,
which would orherwife never be able to refift this
heat ; but with this afliftance they thrive well,
bloffom and ripen their fruit. Therefore, the
upper parts of the Egyptian trees, at one time of
the year, do the office of roots, attrading nouriih-
ment by their abforbent vefTels, the leaves, from
the moift air; which the root, at other feafons of
the year, draws from the damp earth. It is far-
ther to be obferved, that the dew falls at the fame
time, that the heavy clouds move from the north
to fouth ; and by the number of thefe, the
Egyptians judge of the future affluence of the
Nile. Thefe darken the Heavens in the morning ;
but in the day it clears up, and the nights are as
refplendent. v/ith as many liars, in the midft of
fummer, as the lighted and cleareft winter nights
in the north -, this appearance of the ikies in Egypt
never changes, and has been, undoubtedly, a
great inducement for the ancient Egyptians, and
afterwards for the Egyptian Arabs, to lludy aflro-
nomy. I am furprized, that none of the European
Academies of Sciences, have ever thought of fup-

poriing

'4s6 LETTERS.

porting an Aftronomer in Cairo, which is favoured
with the fereneft horizon, a conftant mild climate
and clear fky ; and thefc would, I imagine, aflford
opportunities for eafy and conftant obfervations. He
might, perhaps, have fome trouble from the inha-
bitants, on account of their fuperftition, but even
this, he might foon get over. He would find
learned Arabs, powerful men, who love and ftudy
Aftronomy in their manner, whofe protedion
would defend him from the people, and the
-expence would not be very great.

The E N D.