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WALL AND WATER GARDENS

A GARDEN OF WALL AND WATER.

THE ‘““COUNTRY LIFE”

LIBRARY.

WALL AND WATER
GARDENS.

BY

GERTRUDE JEKYLL.

NEW YORK:

CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS,
Past 75 FIFTH AVENUE.
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THERE is scarcely an English country home where
some kind of gardening is not practised, while in a
very large number of country places their owners
have in some degree become aware of the happiness
that comes of a love of flowers, and of how much
that happiness increases when personal labour and
study work together to a better knowledge of their
wants and ways.

In this book a portion only of the great subject of
horticulture is considered, namely, simple ways of
using some of the many beautiful mountain plants,
and the plants of marsh and water. It is intended
as a guide to amateurs, being written by one of their
number, who has tried to work out some of the pro-
blems presented by the use of these classes of plants
to the bettering of our gardens and outer grounds.

The book does not attempt to exhaust the subject,
neither does it presume to lay down the law. It is
enough, in the case of the rock and wall plants, for
instance, to name some of the best and easiest to
grow. Those who will make such use of it as to

Vi:

a“ PREFACE

work out any of the examples it suggests, will then
have learnt so much for themselves that they will
be able to profit by more learned books and more
copious lists of flowers.

The large quantity of pictorial illustration is in
itself helpful teaching. “TI like a book with pictures”
is not only an idle speech of those who open a book
in order to enjoy the trivial intellectual tickling of the
thing actually represented; but the illustrations are
of distinct educational value, in that they present
aspects of things beautiful, or of matters desirable
for practice, much more vividly than can be done
by the unpictured text.

I am indebted to the proprietors of Zhe Garden for
the use of some of the illustrations, and for a valuable
list of plants and other particulars communicated to
that journal by Mr. Correvon of Geneva; also to the
proprietors of Country Life for a still larger number
of subjects for illustration; to Mr. G. F. Wilson of
Weybridge and Wisley for several photographs for
reproduction; and to Mr. W. Robinson for two
photographs. of unusual interest. I have also to
acknowledge the kind help of Mr. James Hudson,
who compiled the list of Water-Lilies at the end of
the last chapter.

In some cases I have made critical observations

PREFACE vil

on pictures showing portions of various English
gardens. If any apology is due to the owners of
these gardens I freely offer it, though I venture to
feel sure that they swill perceive my intention to be
not so much criticism of the place itself as the sug-
gestion of alternatives of treatment such as might
also be desirable in places presenting analogous
conditions.

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CON TEN ES

CHAPTER I

PAGE

THE DRV-WALLED) TERRACE GARDEN... . «| 4 I
CHAPTER. II

DRY-WALLING AND ROCK-GARDEN CONSTRUCTION . ._ Io

CHAPTER III

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN : ? : : : : i 16

CHAPTER IV

THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE . : : ; A ; 2 28
CHAPTER V
NATIVE PLANTS IN THE ROCK-WALL . ; ‘ : +136

CHAPTER VI

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS . : : : : , 42

CHAPTER VII

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS (continued) . : ; dagen

CHAPTER VIII

SOME PROBLEMS IN WALL-GARDENING : : : ; 59

CHAPTER IX

WHEN TO LET WELL ALONE. : : . : 4568

x CONTENTS

CHAPTER X

THE STREAM-GARDEN AND MARSH POOLS .

CHAPTER XI

THE ROCK-GARDEN—GENERAL ARRANGEMENT .

CHAPTER XII

THE ROCK-GARDEN (continued)

CHAPTER XIII

THE ALPINE GARDEN

CHAPTER XIV

LAKES AND LARGE PONDS

CHAPTER XV

SMALL PONDS AND POOLS

CHAPTER XVI

TUBS IN SMALL WATER OR BOG GARDENS .

CHAPTER XVII

TANKS IN GARDEN DESIGN .

CHAPTER XVIII

A LILY TANK IN A FORMAL GARDEN .

CHAPTER XIX

WATER MARGINS

CHAPTER XX

WATER-LILIES .

PAGE

66

80

go

100

109

Ii!

128

141

154

160

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A GARDEN OF WALL AND WATER . : : 5 Frontispiece
CERASTIUM IN THE Dry WALL : : “ . To face page 1%
Easy STEPS WITH DRY-WALLING ‘ : ‘ eels 2
ERINUS AND OTHER WALL PLANTS . 5 5 . ge 3
DwarF LAVENDER . : : : 4
ROSE AND PINKS IN THE Dry WALL ; A ; 5
ACHILLEA UMBELLATA é : : : : : Ewin 6
ACHILLEA UMBELLATA IN WINTER . : ; 7
ICELAND Poppy ON THE DRY WALL : : : 8

9

ARABIS IN A DRY WALL . ; : : é :

DIAGRAM (SECTION) OF FACE oF RocK-WALL . 3 35. ean 2 TO
Rock-WALLING CONSTRUCTION . : : - - rival fcr wis
RocK-WALLING CONSTRUCTION : ‘ ; : Sanaa at
RouGH STEPS . 5 3 - 6 : ‘ ; a See eS
RouGH STEPS IN A GRASS BANK . : : : tse ka:
ERINUS IN ROUGH STEPS . ; ; . ; : Bas aaa ft
ALPINE PLANTS IN SUNNY WALL . : 5 5 He thy els
CERASTIUM IN A SUNNY WALL. : : : 5 iit it nek §
CAMPANULA GARGANICA . : 5 ~ p ea URLS
CAMPANULA ISOPHYLLA : : 4 : . : Rts 19
IBERIS AND CERASTIUM . 0 : : f : et ae LZOs
STONECROP IN A SUNNY WALL. 5 2 . . See age ed
LAVENDER-COTTON IN WINTER. . 3 ; 5 5 Ss ae
WaAHLENBERGIA DALMATICA 2 : é ; ; Terri 229)
STOBZA PURPUREA . ( : : : 5 - PAs ti a
OUTER WALL, ALHAMBRA, GRANADA : 2 ; hese, eo:
FoLiaGE oF Iris, &c., AT Foot oF WALL 5 5 i a 26
SAPON ARIA, &C., IN SUNNY WALL . 3 A ; a ae

xi

xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page 27

SAXIFRAGA LONGIFOLIA, &C., IN SUNNY WALL
FERNS AT A NORTHERN WALL-FOOT “ :
ANEMONE AND PRIMROSES AT WALL-FOOT .
WHITE ERINUS IN A SHADY WALL. ; :
RAMONDIA PYRENAICA é F : :
SMILACINA BIFOLIA . : s <
CAMPANULA PUSILLA A : : F :
PRIMULA VISCOSA 2 “ - - -
STITCHWORT IN A ROCK-WALL

CORYDALIS LUTEA . F : ‘6 : .
RED VALERIAN IN OLD CASTLE WALL . é
CORYDALIS AND FERN IN OLD WALL. :
AN OLD Moat WALL : A s
OLp Moat WALL WITH INNER WALL . 3
A DouBLE TERRACE . : - A 5 5
OLD GARDEN WALL ENCLOSING WILDERNESS
OLD OUTER GARDEN WALL . , , ‘
AN OLD H.P. RosE . 2 ; : ‘ :
RuBUS DELICIOSUS . 5 '

PONY BORDER AND OLD BUILDINGS .
BOWLING-GREEN OF A TuDOR HousE .

A WELL-PLANTED WALL AND BORDER .
TERRACED GARDEN ON STEEP SLOPE : :
MIDDLE TERRACE, LOOKING EAsT .

MIpDLE TERRACE, LOOKING WEST.

LOWER TERRACE : : - = es ‘
CREEPERS ON A BEAUTIFUL OLD HOUSE *
CAMPANULAS IN STONE STEPS . . p
GARDEN STEPS OVERGROWN . : : 3
GROUPING OF TREE AND WALL : 5 ;
BRIDGE WITH WILD OVERGROWTH . , .
ARCHES, PESCINA ANAGNI, ITALY . - -
FLAGGED PASSAGE WITH PERGOLA . ‘ ‘
AN OLD WALL WITH OPEN JOINTS .
DIAGRAM : GROUPING OF WALL PLANTS . :
Brick WALL THAT COULD BE PLANTED .
ARABIS, TYPE OF HANGING WALL PLANT 5

.

28
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
39
40
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
52
52
53
54
55
56
56
57
58
59
60
61
62

63

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page 64

A Fine Houst WITH UNBROKEN LAWN, &c. .
A Woop Poor . ‘ ‘ : i : F
A STREAM GARDEN . : : : F ;
IRIS LAZVIGATA . : : : ‘ j :
IRIS LEVIGATA IN JAPAN . ‘ : : :
WATER BUTTERCUP . 3 . A
STREAM BY WILLOWS AND ALDERS . i j
GALAX APHYLLA " : ; 3 ‘ 5
XEROPHYLLUM ASPHODELOIDES ; : :
ZENOBIA SPECIOSA . A : : f :
STEPS IN ROCK-GARDEN . ; ; : -
A VALLEY-SHAPED ROCK-GARDEN . : ;
Rock-GARDEN CROWNED WITH SMALL SHRUBS
MENZIESIA, THE IRISH HEATH. : : A
PLAN OF THE ROCK-GARDEN . : ; :
AUBRIETIA IN THE ROCK-GARDEN . 5 -
LITHOSPERMUM PROSTRATUM . ‘ : :
ARENARIA BALEARICA : : : : :
LONDON PRIDE . ; : f ; ; :
ANDROSACE LANUGINOSA . n ; : :
A WILD ROCK-GARDEN . A ; : :
DouBLE SEA CAMPION. : : : ;
HARDY RED-FLOWERED OPUNTIA . : :
In THE ROCK-GARDEN AT KEW : 4 :
BANK OF SPRING FLOWERS AT BATH : :
Poot IN Messrs. BACKHOUSE’S ROCK-GARDEN
In Messrs. BACKHOUSE’S ROCK-GARDEN Z
WHITE Hoop-PETTICOAT NARCISSUS 5 :
TYPE OF THE SMALLER SILVERY SAXIFRAGES.
SAXIFRAGA LONGIFOLIA . ; : ‘ :
SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA . : ; : 3
GENTIANELLA . ‘ - 3 ‘ 5 :
SILENE ALPESTRIS . 2 : : : :
SEMPERVIVUM LAGGERI . : ; , é
ScorcH FiR ON LAKE SHORE . ‘ i F
ROYAL FERN (OSMUNDA) . : , ; c
River EDGE. RANUNCULUS FLORIBUNDUS, &C.

”

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Xill

65
66
68
69
70
71
75
76
80
82
83
85
86
88
90
gI
92
93
94
94
94
95
096
96
06
97
98
99
100
101
102
104
106
109
IIo
112

XIV LIST OF ILLUSERATIONS

BuCKBEAN AND CHAIR-RUSH . : . . To face page 114.
GUNNERA MANICATA : : ‘ : : ; if agit ALES
NYMPH4A ODORATA WITH BUCKBEAN, &C., AT MARGIN 537 Wot BELLO
RHODODENDRONS BY WATER . 3 3 3 : Pa ee 7)
POPLARS AND WATER VIOLET . c - : : Aas MELLO
STREAM AND POOL GARDEN, BY MEssrs. VEITCH OF

EXETER ; r a Z . . C : Sere iio
Rock Poo, By Messrs. VEITCH OF EXETER . , asi Ww hasiage aL
CASTLE MOAT WITH WILD GROWTHS ; ; ; as eunett yt keS
Rock AND PooL GARDEN ‘ : ‘ 3 : sails. dicey telcos
POOL AT THE VILLA D’ESTE . 2 - . é A igo a pee
Rock-BANK AND TANK IN BoG-GARDEN. : : ae ney
RouGH SEAT AND FLOWERS IN BoG-GARDEN . x souk issue a
GARDEN-TANK WITH RouGH KERB. - : : 5) ei eS
GARDEN-TANK WITH SLIGHTLY RAISED KERB 5 a uas 136
PooL IN A BRICK-WALLED GARDEN COURT . : he. hele
Poot IN A GARDEN CouRT . : “ ; : eer es
DIAGRAM: PooL WITH DANGEROUS EDGE 5 e ee 137
CourT IN THE GENERALIFE GARDENS, GRANADA . si). dackeetes
PomMPEII, ATRIUM AND PERISTYLIUM ; F : Stroh PLE.
FERN-CLAD ROCK-WALLS AT THE VILLA D’ESTE . Si es oy t40:
BALUSTRADED POOL IN AN ITALIAN GARDEN . : oe eer
PLAN OF THE GARDEN DESCRIBED . ; 2 $ Sus tase i aS
STAIRWAY AT THE VILLA D'ESTE . : : ; He Be uel tl
Rock AND STREAM-GARDEN IN DEVONSHIRE. : oi bias me
IRIS LZVIGATA IN Mr. WILSON’S GARDEN . : oil is
Cow-ParsNip (HERACLEUM) . ‘ : ‘ ; merch ails;
A FLowErRY POND EDGE. : : : ; 9} (aly Mtns tases
A POND THAT MIGHT BE IMPROVED a : : Pare cts:
WATER-LILIES IN A SHELTERED POND . . F Sst dy ts aL

WatTER-LILIES . z F i ‘ A - ; sia | ap ie ees

bp

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vel Wide A Cua en tg nee.

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Hodson & Kars

CERASTIUM IN THE DRY-WALL.

WALL AND WATER GARDENS

CHAPTER I
THE DRY-WALLED TERRACE GARDEN

MANY a garden has to be made on a hillside more or
less steep. The conditions of such a site naturally
suggest some form of terracing, and in connection
with a house of modest size and kind, nothing is
prettier or pleasanter than all the various ways of
terraced treatment that may be practised with the help
of dry-walling, that is to say, rough wall-building
without mortar, especially where a suitable kind of
stone can be had locally.

It is well in sharply-sloping ground to keep the
paths as nearly level as may be, whether they are in
straight lines or whether they curve in following the
natural contour of the ground. Many more beautiful
garden-pictures may be made by variety in planting
even quite straightly terraced spaces than at first
appears possible, and the frequent flights of steps,
always beautiful if easy and well proportioned, will be
of the greatest value. When steps are built in this
kind of rough terracing the almost invariable fault is

that they are made too steep and too narrow in the
A

2 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

tread. It is a good rule to make the steps so easy that
one can run up and down them, whether of skilled
workmanship, as in the present illustration, or rough,
as in that at p. 14. There is no reason or excuse for
the steep, ugly, and even dangerous steps one so often
sees. Unless the paths come too close together on
the upper and lower terraces, space for the more
easy gradient can be cut away above, and the steps
can also be carried out free below; the ground cut
through above being supported by dry-walling at the
sides of the steps, and where the steps stand up clear
below, their sides being built up free. If for any
reason this is difficult or inexpedient, a landing can be
built out and the steps carried down sideways instead
of up and down the face of the hill. In fact, there is
no end to the pretty and interesting ways of using
such walling and such groups of steps.

Where the stairway cuts through the bank and is
lined on each side by the dry-walling, the whole
structure becomes a garden of delightful small things.
Little Ferns are planted in the joints on the shadier
side as the wall goes up, and numbers of small Saxi-
frages and Stonecrops, Pennywort and Evznus, Cory-
dalis and Sandwort. Then there will be hanging
sheets of Aubrietia and Rock Pinks, /berts and Ceras-
tium, and many another pretty plant that will find a
happy home in the cool shelter of the rocky joint. In
some regions of the walling Wallflowers and Snap-
dragons and plants of Thrift can be established; as
they ripen their seed it drifts into the openings of
other joints, and the seedlings send their roots deep

“ONITIVM-AYdG HALIM NOIXHYNNOD NI SdaHLIS ASVA

ERINUS, STONECROPS AND TUFTS OF SILENE ACAULIS.

DRY-WALLED TERRACE GARDEN 3

into the bank and along the cool backs of the stones,
and make plants of surprising health and vigour that
are longer lived than the softer-grown plants in the
rich flower-borders,

I doubt if there is any way in which a good quantity
of plants, and of bushes of moderate size, can be so
well seen and enjoyed as in one of these roughly
terraced gardens, for one sees them up and down and
in all sorts of ways, and one has a chance of seeing
many lovely flowers clear against the sky, and of per-
haps catching some sweetly-scented tiny thing like
Dianthus fragrans at exactly nose-height and eye-level,
and so of enjoying its tender beauty and powerful
fragrance in a way that had never before been found
possible.

Then the beautiful details of structure and marking
in such plants as the silvery Saxifrages can never be
so well seen as in a wall at the level of the eye or just
above or below it ; and plain to see are all the pretty
ways these small plants have of seating themselves on
projections or nestling into hollows, or creeping over
stony surface as does the Balearic Sandwort, or stand-
ing like Evzxus with its back pressed to the wall in an
attitude of soldier-like bolt-uprightness.

In place of all this easily attained prettiness how
many gardens on sloping ground are disfigured by
profitless and quite indefensible steep banks of mown
grass! Hardly anything can be so undesirable in a
garden. Such banks are unbeautiful, troublesome to
mow, and wasteful of spaces that might be full of
interest. If there must be a sloping space, and if for

4 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

any reason there cannot be a dry wall, it is better to
plant the slope with low bushy or rambling things ;
with creeping Cotoneaster or Japan Honeysuckle, with
Ivies or with such bushes as Savin, Pyrus japonica,
Cistus, or Berberis ; or if it is on a large scale, with the
free-growing rambling Roses and double-flowered
Brambles. I name these things in preference to the
rather over-done Periwinkle and St. John’s-wort,
because Periwinkle is troublesome to weed, and soon
grows into undesirably tight masses, and the Hyfer-
cum, though sometimes of good effect, is extremely
monotonous in large masses by itself, and is so
ground-greedy that it allows of no companionship.

There is another great advantage to be gained by the
use of the terrace walls ; this is the display of the many
shrubs as well as plants that will hang over and throw
their flowering sprays all over the face of the wall.

In arranging such gardens, I like to have only a very
narrow border at the foot of each wall to accommo-
date such plants as the dwarf Lavender shown in the
illustration, or any plant that is thankful for warmth
or shelter.

In many cases, or even most, it will be best to have
no border at all, but to make a slight preparation at
the wall foot not apparently distinguishable from the
path itself, and to have only an occasional plant or
group or tuft of Fern. Seeds will fall to this point,
and the trailing and sheeting plants will clothe the
wall foot and path edge, and the whole thing will look
much better than if it had a stiffly edged border.

I suppose the whole width of the terrace to be four-

‘TIVM-AUG AHL AO LOOT AHL LV HYGNAAVT FUVMd

AN OLD GARDEN ROSE AND HYBRID ROCK PINKS IN THE
DRY-WALL.

DRY-WALLED TERRACE GARDEN 5

teen feet. I would have the path six feet wide, allow-
ing an extra foot for the rooting of plants next the
wall; then there would be a seven-foot width for the
border, planted with bushy things towards its outer
edge, which will be the top of the wall of the next
terrace below. These would be mostly bushes of
moderate growth, such as Lavender, Rosemary, Ber-
beris, and Pyrus japonica, with the plants suitable for
partly hanging over the face of the wall. Among these
would be Forsythia suspensa, Phlomis fruticosa (Jeru-
salem Sage), and the common Barberry, so beautiful
with its coral-like masses of fruit in October, its half-
weeping habit of growth, and its way of disposing its
branches in pictorial masses. There would also be Des-
modium penduliflorum, and above all the many kinds of
Roses that grow and flower so kindly in such a posi-
tion. No one can know till they try how well many
sorts of Roses will tumble over walls and flower in
profusion. Rosa /ucida and Scotch Briers come over
a wall nearly five feet high, and flower within a foot
from the ground; Rosa wichuriana comes over in a
curtain of delicate white bloom and polished leafage.
There is a neat and pretty evergreen form of FR. sem-
pervirens from Southern Italy, in leaf and habit not
unlike wichuriana, but always more shy of flower,
which hangs over in masses, and in warm exposures
flowers more freely than on the flat. If one had to
clothe the face of a wall twelve feet high with hanging
wreaths of flowering Roses, there is a garden form
of R. arvense that, planted at the top, will climb and
scramble either up or down, and will ramble through

6 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

other bushes to almost any extent. I know it as the
kitchen Rose, because the oldest plant I have rambles
over and through some Avbor-vite just opposite the
kitchen window of a little cottage that I lived in for
two years. When it is in flower the mass of white
bloom throws a distinctly appreciable light into the
kitchen. The Ayrshire Roses are delightful things for
this kind of use.

Where in steep ground the terraces come near to-
gether the scheme may comprise some heroic doings
with plants of monumental aspect, for at the outer
edge of one of the wall tops there may be a great
group of Yucca gloriosa or Y. recurva, some of it
actually planted in the wall within a course or two
of the top, or some top stones may be left out; or
the Yuccas may be planted as the wall goes up, with
small kinds such as Y. flaccida a little lower down.
Another such group, of different shape but clearly
in relation to it, may be in the next terrace above or
below. When the Yuccas are in flower and are seen
from below, complete in their splendid dignity of
solid leaf and immense spire of ivory bloom against
the often cloudless blue of our summer skies, their
owner will rejoice in possessing a picture of per-
haps the highest degree of nobility of plant form
that may be seen in an English garden.

The garden of dry-walled terraces will necessarily
be differently treated if its exposure is to the full
southern or south-western sunshine, or to the north
or north-east. In the case of the hot, dry, sunny
aspect, a large proportion of the South European

ACHILLEA UMBELLATA NINE MONTHS AFTER PLANTING.

ACHILLEA UMBELILATA IN MID-WINTER, SIXTEEN MONTHS
AFTER PLANTING.
(Half of the same group that is shown at p. 6, scale vather larger.)

DRY-WALLED TERRACE GARDEN 7

plants that are hardy in England and like warm
places in our gardens, can be used. Many of these
have greyish foliage, and it would be greatly to the
advantage of the planting, from the pictorial point
of view, to keep these rather near together. It should
also be noted that a large proportion of these, of
shrubby and half-shrubby character, are good winter
plants, such as Lavender, Rosemary, Phlomts, Othon-
nopsis, and Santolina; the latter, as may be seen in
the illustration, being specially well clothed in the
winter months. These can be as well planted at the
top edge of the wall, at the bottom, or in the face.
With these plants well grouped, and the addition of
some common white Pinks, and the useful hybrids
of Rock Pinks; with a few grey-leaved Alpines such
as Cerastium, Artemisia nana, A. sericea, the encrusted
Saxifrages, and Achillea umbellata, a piece of the best
possible wall-gardening can be done that will be as
complete and well furnished in winter (all but the
bloom of the plants) as it is in summer. Achillea
umbellata is a plant of extreme value in wall-planting
in all aspects. It grows fairly fast, and from a few
pieces of a pulled-apart plant will in a short time
give the result shown in the illustrations ; it should
be replanted every three years. There is no need in
such a case to remember the exact date of planting.
The plant is at its best in its first and second year ;
then it begins to look a little straggly and over-worn.
This may be taken as the signal for replanting, as in
all such cases with any other plants.

The above selection of plants would serve for quite

& WALL AND WATER (GARDENS

a long section of wall. The character of the planting
might then change and gradually give way to another
grouping that might be mainly of Cistuses. With
these, and in the hottest wall-spaces, might come
some of the South European Campanulas; C. zso-
phylla, both blue and white, C. garganica, C. fragilis,
and C. muralis. These gems of their kind live and
do well in upright walling, whereas they would perish
on the more open rockery, or could only be kept
alive by some unbeautiful device for a winter pro-
tection.

Not only does the wall afford the shelter needed
for plants that would otherwise be scarcely hardy,
but the fact of planting them with the roots spread
horizontally, and the crown of the plant therefore
more or less upright instead of flat, obviates the
danger that besets so many tender plants, of an
accumulation of wet settling in the crown, then
freezing and causing the plant to decay.

In many places where these rather tender southern
plants are grown, they have to have a covering of
sheets of glass in the winter, whereas in the wall
they are safe and have no need of these unsightly
contrivances.

SOME OF THE PLANTS AND SHRUBS FOR
DRY-WALLED TERRACES

IN A COOL PLACE
Saxifrages, Mossy. Corydalis.
Wall Pennywort. Evinus alpinus (cool or warm).
Arenaria balearica. Small Ferns.

CANETET

TOP OF THE ROCK-N

4

THE

Ads

ND POPPY

A

ICEL.

ARABIS IN A DRY-WALL.

DRY-WALLED TERRACE GARDEN 9

To HANG DOWN

Rock Pinks.
Lberis.
Alyssum.

Aubrietia.
Cerastium.
Mossy Saxifrage (cool).

In SUN OR SHADE

Wallflowers.
Snapdragons.

Thrift.
Dianthus fragrans.

SHRUBS TO HANG OVER FROM THE TOP

Cistus cyprius.

C. laurifolius.

Lavender.

Othonnopsis chetrifolia.
Desmodium pendulifiorum.
Rosa lucida.

R. sempervirens, vars.

GREY-LEAVED ALPINE

Cerastium tomentosum.
Artemisia nana.

Phlomts fruticosa.
Santolina chamacyparissus.
Rosemary.

Berberis vulgaris.

Pyrus japonica.

Rosa wichuriana.

R. arvense, garden vars.

PLANTS FOR THE WALL

Achillea umbellata.
Artemisia sericea.

PLANTS FOR HOTTEST PLACES

Campanula isophylla.
C. fragilis.

Yucca gloriosa.

Y. tlaccida.

Campanula garganica.
C. muralis.

Yucca recurva.
Opuntia, in var.

CHAPTER II
DRY-WALLING AND ROCK-GARDEN CONSTRUCTION

A ROCK-GARDEN may be anything between an upright
wall and a nearly dead level. It is generally an arti-
ficial structure of earth and stones, and alas! only
too often it is an aggregation of shapeless mounds and
hollows made anyhow. Such a place is not only
ugly but is very likely not suitable for the plants
that are intended to grow in it. If any success in
the cultivation of rock-plants is expected, it is only
reasonable to suppose that one must take the trouble
to learn something about the plants, their kinds and
their needs, and it is equally necessary to take the
trouble to learn how their places are to be prepared.
Happily for the chances of success and pleasure in
this delightful kind of gardening the right way is also
the most beautiful way. There is no need to sur-
round every little plant with a kind of enclosure of
stones, set on edge and pointing to all four points of
the compass; it is far better to set the stones more
or less in courses or in lines of stratification, just as
we see them in nature in a stone quarry or any moun-
tain side where surface denudation has left them
standing out clear in nearly parallel lines. It matters
not the least whether the courses are far apart or

10

DIAGRAM (SECTION) SHOWING ALTERNATIVE ARRANGEMENT
OF THE FACE OF THE STONES IN A ROCK-WALL
AT AN ANGLE OF 45°. (See p. 11)

‘MOV dIL SHNOLS FHL MOH DNIMOHS ‘ONITIVM-YOOU AYA

ROCK-GARDEN CONSTRUCTION 11

near together; this is naturally settled by the steep-
ness of the ground. In a wall they are necessarily
close, and in very steep ground it is convenient to
build them with the courses rather near each other.
In such a case as a steep slope with an angle of 45
degrees, the face of the rock-bank could be built in
either of the two ways shown in the diagram. Both
will suit the plants. The flatter the angle of the
ground the further apart may be the rocky courses,
as the danger of the earth washing away is diminished.
If the stone is not in large pieces, it will be found
a good plan in rather steep banks to begin at the
path level with a few courses of dry-walling, and then
to make an earthy shelf and then another rise of two
or three courses of walling, using the two or three
courses to represent one thickness of deeper stone.
But in any case the rock-builder should make up his
mind how the courses should run and keep to the
same rule throughout, whether the stones lie level
or dip a little to right or left as they generally do in
nature. But whether a stone lies level or not as to
the right and left of its front face, it should always
be laid so that its back end tips down into the ground,
and its front face, when seen in profile, looks a little
upward.

This, it will be seen, carries the rain into the ground
instead of shooting it off as it would do if it were laid
the other way, like the tile or slate on a building.

As for the general shape or plan of the rock-garden,
it must be governed by the nature of the ground and
the means and material at disposal. But whether it

12 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

will be beautiful or not as a structure must depend
on the knowledge and good taste of the person who
plans it and sees it carried out.

As mentioned elsewhere, it is both highly desirable
and extremely convenient to have different sections of
the garden for the plants from different geological
formations, therefore we will suppose that a portion is
of limestone, and another of granite, and a third of
sandstone with peat. If this sandstone and peat is
mainly in the shadiest and coolest place, and can have
a damp portion of a few square yards at its foot, it will
be all the better. Of course if a pool can be managed,
or the rock-garden can be on one or both banks of
a little stream or rill, the possibilities of beautiful
gardening will be endless.

In making the dry-walling the stones should all tip
a little downwards at the back, and the whole face of
the wall should incline slightly backward, so that no
drop of rain is lost, but all runs into the joints. Any
loose earth at the back of the stones must be closely
rammed. If this is done there is no danger of the
wall bursting outward and coming down when there
is heavy rain. Any space backward of newly moved
earth behind the wall must also be rammed and made
firm in the same way.

The two illustrations of a bit of dry wall freshly
put up give an idea of the way it is built. The one
containing the angle shows how the stones are tipped
back, while the one with the straight front shows how
spaces at some of the joints and between the courses
are left for planting. If the scheme of planting is

SHNOLS FHL NAYMLAE LAAT AUV SAOVdS MOH ONIMOHS ‘ONITIVM-NOOU AUG

SHOVEITAL CHTIVM- ALI NHAMLHE SdHTS HONOU

ROCK-GARDEN CONSTRUCTION 13

matured and everything at hand as the wall goes up,
it is much best to plant as the stones are laid. The
roots can then be laid well out, and larger plants can
be used than if they were to be put in when the wall
is completed.

In making the steps that go with ‘such dry-walling
it will not be necessary that they should be entirely
paved with stones. If the front edge is carefully fitted
and fixed the rest can be levelled up with earth and
the sides and angles planted with bits of Mossy Saxi-
frages or other small growths. This is also a capital
way of making steps in steep wood paths. In such
places the use of thick wooden slab as an edging is a
much worse expedient, for in wet or wintry weather it
becomes extremely slippery and dangerous.

The steps themselves will become flower gardens ;
only the front edges need be cemented ; indeed, if the
stones are large and heavy enough to be quite firm
there need be no cement; but if two or three stones
are used to form the edge of a four-foot-wide step it is
just as well to make a cement joint to fix the whole
firmly together. This fixing need not be made to
show as a conspicuous artificial joint; it can be kept
well down between the stones, and spaces left above
and below to form many a little nook where a tiny
Fern may be planted or a little tuft of some other
small plant—any plant that one may most wish to see
there. If the space is cool and shady the little
Saxifraga Cymbalaria is a charming thing. It is an
annual, but always grows again self-sown; in the
depth of winter its cheerful tufts of little bluntly-lobed

14 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

leaves look fresh and pretty in the joints of stones. It
flowers quite early in the year and then withers away
completely, but the seeds sow themselves, and so with-
out any one taking any thought or trouble it renews
itself faithfully from year to year. Many small Ferns
will also be quite happy in the front joints of the
shady steps, such as Chetlanthes vestita, Cystopteris
fragilis and C. dickieana, Asplenium Trichomanes, A.
Ruta-muraria, Ceterach, and the Woodsias.

The little creeping Avenaria balearica will grow up
the cool side of the wall or the front edge of steps and
be a carpet of vivid green in deepest winter, and in
June will show a galaxy of little white stars on inch-
long thread-like stalks that shiver in the prettiest way
to the puffing of a breath of wind or the weight of
raindrops of a summer shower.

In a couple of years or even less, small Mosses will
appear on the stones themselves, and the spores of
Ferns wind-blown will settle in the stony face and in
the joints ; then will come the delight of seeing these
lovely things growing spontaneously, and coming
willingly to live in the homes we have made ready
for them.

No little flowering plant seems more willing to take
to such a place than Erinus alpinus. As soon as steps
grow mossy (even if they are of solid bricklayer’s work
with mortar joints), if a few seeds of Lvzmus are sown
in the mossy tufts they will gladly grow as shown in
the illustration, where this cheerful little plant has
been established on some solid steps of rough sand-
stone leading to a loft, and now scatters its own seed

‘a
oe Ne as.
ae aA

is

STEPS IN A ROUGH GRASS BANK; STONES CEMENTED AT FRONT.

“CT NTO! CHINANGTO AAVH SdaiS HHL - LOT VY OL SdaHLS ANOLS HONOG NI SONTSA

ROCK-GARDEN CONSTRUCTION 15

and is quite at home as a well-settled colony
making natural increase. This is an extreme Case,
for the little Alpine has nothing whatever to grow in
but the mossy tufts that have gathered of themselves
within the time, some eight years, since the steps were
built. Had the steps been of dry-walling, such as was
described in the early part of the chapter, they would
have grown all the quicker, having the more favour-
able conditions of a better root-run.

CHAPTER III
THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN

Many of the most easily grown Alpines are just as
happy on a sunny wall as in the shade. So bene-
ficent to the roots is contact with the cool stone, that
plants that would perish from drought in the lighter
soils and fierce sun-heat of our southern counties
remain fresh and well nourished in a rock-wall in
the hottest exposure. Moreover, in walls all plants
seem to be longer lived. Those of the truly saxatile
plants, whose way of growth is to droop over rocks
and spread out flowering sheets, are never so happy
as in a rock-wall. But it cannot be too often re-
peated that to get good effects a few kinds only
should be used at a time. So only can we enjoy
the full beauty of the plant and see what it really can
do for us; so only can we judge of what the plant
really is, and get to know its ways. In many of
those rock-plants that are grown from seed, indi-
viduals will be found to vary, not only in the colour
and size of the bloom, but in other characters, so that
the plant cannot be judged by one example only.
Look at the variety in trees—in Birches, in Hollies,
in Oaks! Still more is this natural variation notice-
able in small plants that Le close. to the eye.) tn

AWE IL. aalIP alls;

EW.

STON
GE

LIME

NNY

=
/)

l

S

Al

CE

N

I

NTS

A
ALPIN

Pye

iG

ALPINE

A

AXIFRAG
ETG.

Z

EA SS)
MOSUM

NEY

DACCEIMA TATION
Al, JSIRIUNUIS, (21e0%

JARDIN

UMA CO
lia in Flower see p. 100.)

NE

i

’

IE (OAL

LONG

1gifo

/

(For Saxifraga Lo

NNY ROCK-WALL.

]

SU

WE TOS TSU. |

J

RASTIL

Cc

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN 17

watching a number of the same kind one learns how
to judge them; one sees in Cerastium, for instance,
such as one of the many tufts hanging out of the
wall in the picture, that one tuft has a brighter and
better appearance than the next one. Then one sees
that the flower, which at first one had thought was
whiter than its neighbour, is not different in colour,
but has rather wider petals, and that they open more
and lie a little flatter, and that the leaf is somewhat
broader and its downy covering slightly heavier and
therefore whiter looking.

Nothing is a better lesson in the knowledge of
plants than to sit down in front of them, and handle
them and look them over just as carefully as possible ;
and in no way can such study be more pleasantly or
conveniently carried on than by taking a light seat to
the rock-wall and giving plenty of time to each kind
of little plant, examining it closely and asking oneself,
and it, why this and why that. Especially if the first
glance shows two tufts, one with a better appearance
than the other; not to stir from the place until one
has found out why and how it is done, and all about
it. Of course a friend who has already gone through
it all can help on the lesson more quickly, but I doubt
whether it is not best to do it all for oneself.

Then the hanging plants, Cerastium, Alyssum, Aub-
rietia, Silene, Arabis, Gypsophila, Saponaria, Rock Pinks
and the like, though they grow quite happily on the
level, do not show their true habit as they do when
they are given the nearly upright wall out of which
they can hang. There are plenty of plants for the

B

18 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

level, and this way of growing in hanging sheets
is in itself a very interesting characteristic, point-
ing to the use of many beautiful things in circum-
stances that could not otherwise be dealt with so
satisfactorily.

The Rock Pinks and their hybrids are very im-
portant wall-plants of the hanging class. The hy-

brids for such use are derived from Dianthus ce@stus .

(the Cheddar Pink), D. plumarius, D. superbus, D.
JSragrans, and possibly others. D. fragrans and its
double variety are delightful wall-plants; the double
is that wonderful tiny white Pink whose scent is
like the quintessence of that of Jasmine; a scent
almost too powerful. Seed of these hybrids can be
had by the name of Hybrid Rock Pinks; it is easily
grown and yields interesting varieties, all capital
wall and rock plants.

The Rock Pinks are equally happy in a wall in
sun or shade; but as we are just now considering
the plants that will bear the hottest places, among
the most important, and at the same time the most
beautiful, will be some of the tender Campanulas
of Southern Italy, and others that are usually found
tender or difficult of culture in England. Campanula
garganica, a native of rocks and walls in that curious
promontory of Gargano that stands out into the
Adriatic (the spur on the heel of Italy), is often an
uncertain plant in our gardens. But planted in a
cleft in very steep, almost wall-like rock-work, or
still better in an actual wall in the hottest exposure,
where it cannot suffer from the moisture that is

‘YYOM-NION ANNAS NI VOINVYIUVI VFIANVdWVO

(‘aagamvip your auo szanopnq) “NOS NI TIF M-NOOY FHL NI VTIAHdOSI FTONFdNVO

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN 19

so commonly fatal to it, it will thrive and flower
abundantly.

This species, with other Campanulas that are
absolutely saxatile, should in England always be
grown in a wall or perpendicular rock-work. The
same treatment suits C. Razneri, the yellow-flowered
C. petrea of the Tyrol, and Campanulas murals,
Elatine, elatinoides, excisa, macrorhiza, and mirabils.
That the same plan is suitable to C. zsophylla may
be seen by the illustration showing a tuft flowering
in a wall facing south-west, in a garden thirty-five
miles south-west of London.

Places should also be given to the tenderer of the
Lithospermums, LZ. Gastoni and L. gramintfolium.
Graminifolium is a neat bushy-looking plant; both
have the flowers of the fine blue colour that is so
good a character of the genus. In hottest exposures
in Devon and Cornwall and the Isle of Wight there
would even be a chance of success with L. vosmarint-
folium, the “Blue Flower” of the Island of Capri.
Its colour may be said to be the loveliest blue in
nature. It has not the violent intensity of the Gen-
tian, but a quality entirely its own. If one may
without exaggeration speak of a blue that gives the
eye perfect happiness, it would be this most perfect
blue of the lovely Gromwell of the cliffs of Capri.
But it must have sun and air and full exposure,
or the colour is wanting in quality, therefore it is
not a plant for the unheated greenhouse. The easily
grown L. prostratum likes a rather cooler place,
and is more a plant for the rock-garden or for

20 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

grassy banks. This most useful trailer is not par-
ticular about soil, though the Lithospermums as
a genus are lime-loving things.

Another important race of plants for the hot wall
are the various kinds of /éerzs. All will do well. The
commonest perennial kind, J. sempervirens, shows
new beauties in the wall. Still better is the hand-
somer J. corregfolia, larger both of leaf and flower.
In the south of England we may also have J/. gzb-
raltarica and J, tenoreana, both white, tinted with
pink or lilac, and /. Pruztz, pure white, all South
European plants. These are short-lived perennials,
scarcely more than biennials, but they come well
from seed which should be sown in the wall; the
unmoved seedlings will do much better than any
transplanted ones.

Closely allied to the Iberises and capital wall-plants,
doing well in all soils, but preferring lime, are the
ZEthionemas, mostly small neat plants with bluish
leaves and pretty pink flowers. .&. coridifolium or
pulchellum, from Asia Minor, is charming against grey
stones, while the Syrian . grandiflorum is like a
beautiful little pink-flowered bush. Rabbits are very
fond of this family of plants, indeed they seem to
favour the Crucifere in general. When I first grew
the A*thionemas, forgetting their relationship to
Iberis, I put them in a place accessible to rabbits ;
the rabbit being the better botanist recognised them
at once, much to my loss. But in the wall they are
safe.

The sunny wall is also the true place for the Stone-

fw

fideo & Kea

IBERIS AND CERASTIUM IN THE DRY-WALL.

‘TIVM-NOOU ANNAS FJHL NI (WAINMAdS WNAGHS) dOMOANOLS

la Pay runes fH

&

-s

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN 28

crops large and small, from the tiny Sedum glaucum
and the red-tinted S. Lydium and brittle dasyphyllum,
through the many good kinds of moderate size, of
which pulchellum, kamtschaticum, and Ewersiw are im-
portant, to the large-sized S. spectabile blooming in
September. Among these, one of the most useful is
S. spurium in three colourings ; pink, a deeper colour-
ing near crimson, and a dull white. It is one of the
easiest plants to grow; a few little pieces (they
need scarcely be rooted) will quickly take hold, and
a year hence make sheets of pretty succulent growth
smothered with bloom in middle summer.

The pretty Phloxes of the se¢acea group are capital
plants in the hot wall; in their second and third
year hanging down in sheets; the only one that
does not hang down is the charming pink “ Vivid,”
which has a more tufted habit. The free-growing
P. stellaria, one of the same family, should not be
forgotten. Its colour, a white tinged with faint
purple, makes it suitable for accompanying Aubrie-
tias, which do well both in sun and shade.

There is a lovely little labiate, Szachys corszca,
which is a delightful small plant to grow in level
joints ; it is not much known, but is desirable as a
gem for the warm wall. Avnebia echioides is also a
good wall-plant.

It will be important that the wall, especially if it is
of any height, should have a crown of bushy things
at its top, and not a crown only, for some shrubby
and half-shrubby plants should come down the face
here and there to a depth of two or three joints, and

22 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

occasionally even more. The plants for this use will
be Cistus and Helianthemum, Lavender, both the large
and the dwarf kinds, Rosemary, Phlomis, Santolina
(Lavender Cotton), Southernwood, Olearia Haastit,
Eurybia gunniana (hardy only in the south of
England), Cassinia fulvida, Berberis Aquifolium and
B. vulgaris (the common Barberry with the beauti-
ful coral fruits), Scotch Briers, Rosa /uctda and Rosa
wichuriana, and any other beautiful small shrubs,
preferably evergreen. Also some of the pleasantest
of the Sweet Herbs, Hyssop and Catmint (beloved
of cats), both beautiful garden plants, and Rue for
the sake of its pretty growth and blue leaves, These,
or rather a few of them at a time, in very carefully
selected association, would be grouped upon the top
and a little way down.

It will have a good effect, if one of these more im-
portant bush-like plants, in the case of a dry wall from
eight to ten or more feet high, swept right down with
a broken or slightly curving diagonal line from top
to bottom, with some more plants of the same on the
lower level at the wall’s foot. For this use Othon-
nopsts, Nepeta, Hyssop, dwarf Lavender, and Santolina
would be among the best; Samntolina being especially
valuable, as it is excellent in winter and never untidy
at any time.

The neat little Scadiosa Pterocephala must have a
place; it is a good plan to have a section of the
wall devoted mainly to plants of grey foliage ; here
would be the place for this, in company with Achzllea
umbellata and Artemisia sericea and others of this

YALNIM-GIW NI TIVM-AUd AHL NI (VYNITOLNVS) NOLLOO YAANFAVT

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN 2.3

warmth-loving genus; and in the grey part of the
wall there will be Southernwood and Catmint (Vepeta
Mussini), Hyssop and Lavender Cotton, and the
curious, almost blue-leaved, Othonnopsis chetrifolia.
Many of these will be among the plants just named,
but to make this clear and easy for reference they
will be put together in the list at the end of the
chapter.

The hardy Fuchsias will also be good plants for
the head and foot of the wall, and the pretty little
F. pumila for the wall itself.

There are two of the small St. John’s-worts that
must not be forgotten, Hypericum coris, a perfect gem
among dwarfer shrub-like plants, and 4. repens, its
exact opposite in habit, for A. coris stands up erect,
and H. repens hangs straight down like Moneywort in
a window-box.

It would be tempting in Cornwall to try the Caper
plant (Capparis spinosa) and the hardier of the
Mesembryanthemums that do so well in the Scilly
Islands; the best to try would be J. dlandum in its
two varieties—aloum and rvoseum, seldom entirely out
of bloom; the straw-coloured MM. edule and its hand-
some crimson-flowered ally, JZ. vrubro-cinctum ; M.
glaucum, one of the hardiest and finest, with large
canary-yellow flowers ; and M. deltoides, which forms
a dense curtain when it is allowed to hang, and fills
the air in spring with the vanilla-like scent of its small
but countless pink blossoms.

With these, and in a part of the wall specially pre-
pared with rather larger spaces between the stones in

24 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

the courses, some of the hardy Opuntias would be par-
ticularly suitable ; they are mentioned more at length
in the chapters on rock-gardens. Here would also be
the most suitable place for the Euphorbias.

Several of the Edvaianthus (now better known as
Wahlenbergia), pretty plants of the Campanula family,
that are often lost in gardens from winter damp, will
be safe in the sunny wall. The best will be W. dal-
matica and W. Pumilio. Another branch of the Cam-
panulacee, the Phyteumas, are of special value in the
wall, and will do nowhere so well. The most usually
cultivated are P. comosum, P. hemisphericum, and P.
orbiculare. Other pretty plants, also often lost in the
usual forms of rock-garden, are Acantholimon venustum
and A. glumaceum ; allied to Thrift.

Many of these plants are best propagated by fresh
seed, which can be sown as soon as it ripens in adjoin-
ing joints and crevices. It should also be remem-
bered that there are several annuals that can with
advantage be sown in the wall; some of the most
suitable would be Jéeris odorata, Saponaria calabrica,
and Szlene pendula, also the little blue Stonecrop
(Sedum ceruleum).

The lovely little Petrocallis pyrenaica is a true plant
for the sunny wall in its upper joints. The larger
growth of Stob@a purpurea will also suit the top joints
of the upper courses, or the warm place at the wall-
foot. It is a thing that will not only do well in such
places, but that so used will look quite at its best. To
those who are unacquainted with it it may be described
as a thistle-like plant with silvery-green spiny foliage

‘AZIS-AdIT ATHVAN ‘VOILVWIVd VIDUAINATHVAL

(‘ssoaay sayou? aa4yy stamopt) “LOOA-TIVM ANNOAS FHL LV PFAUNdUNd VY dIOLS

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN 25

and leafy stems, and an abundance of pale purplish
wide-open bloom, large for the size of the plant.
Most of the Thistles, however handsome in leaf, are
disappointing in flower. This good plant, on the
contrary, surprises by the size and quality of its
bloom. It is not a plant to mix up with other
things in a border, but exactly right for the hot
rock-wall.

Parochetus communis must not be forgotten. It is
one of the flowers of perfect blue, a delight and surprise
to see on a little plant that looks like a humble Clover.
Being a native of Nepaul, it is not always hardy in
English gardens, but the shelter of the wall will pre-
serve it in any of our southern districts.

The foot of the wall will be best if it is not planted
closely all along, but if occasionally some handsome
warmth-loving plant is there ina tuft or group. Some
of the plants most suitable for this place will be
Acanthus, /ris stylosa, Crinums and Plumbago Lar-
penta, and of smaller plants, Axomatheca cruenta,
Anemone fulgens, and in the south, Amaryllis Bella-
donna, Pancratium tillyricum, and Zephryanthes carinata.
An occasional bush at the wall-foot would also come
well, such as Rosemary, Czstus lusttanicus, Veronica
hulkeana, Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius, or Griselinia
Littoralts.

Wonderful is the pictorial quality of Ivy, and its
power of assimilation with the forms and surfaces of
ancient buildings. For a permanent covering of any-
thing ugly of brick or stone it is also a most helpful
auxiliary, and though I am just now considering ways

26 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

of using what are more of the nature of flowering
plants, the merits of this grand climber must never be
forgotten. There are often places where such a wall-
garden as has been described may need some dark
and quiet background. If at the end of such a scene
any wall or building returned forward square with the
wall, here would be the place for Ivy. Indeed there
are many vast piles of building whose grim severity
could endure the presence of nothing of a less serious
character. Thus this great outer wall of the Alhambra,
towering up in its massive simplicity, could have
borne no other climbing plant than its one great
sheet of Ivy.

PLANTS FOR THE SUNNY ROCK-WALL

Cerastium, Alyssum, Aubrietia, Fuchsia gracilis, kiccartont,

Silene, Arabis, Gypsophila,
Saponaria, Dianthus hybs.,
D. fragans, plumarius, super-
bus. (These will hang down.)

Campanula garganica, Rainert,
petrea, muralis, Elatine, ela-
tinotdes, exctsa, macrorhiza,
mirabilis, tsophylla.

Lithospermum Gastont,
mintifolium.

lberis sempervirens, correefolia,
tenoreana, gibraltarica, Pruitt.

A thionema coridifolium, grandt-
Jlorum.

Sedum glaucum, Lydium, dasy-
phyllum, pulchellum, kam-
tschaticum, spurium, Ewerstt,
&c.

ete

pumila.

Hypericum corts, repens.

Mesembryanthemum blandum,
edule, rubro-cinctum, glaucum,
deltoides.

Wahlenbergia dalmatica, Pu-
milto.

Phyteuma comosum, hemisphart-
cum, orbiculare.

Acantholimon glumaceum, ve-
nustum.

Stachys corsica.

Lavender.

Santolina.

Eurybia gunniana.

Hyssopus officinalis.

Scabiosa Pterocephala.

Othonnopsis cheirifolia.

PEINADOR DE LA REINA; ALHAMBRA, GRANADA.

AN OLD WALL.

4

FOLIAGE OF IRIS AND DAY-LILY AT THE FOOT OI!

(‘waaay wonnpuyoopy p wdiP urpav f
‘TIFM FNOLSAWIT ANNOAS V NI “OLT ‘SNAdHH VIIHdOSdAD ‘SHAIONAIO VIYYNOdVS

SAXIFRAGA LONGIFOLIA, (See also p. 100.) ANTIRRHINUM
GLUTINOSUM, AQUILEGIA JUCUNDA, ERINUS HIRSUTUS
IN A LIMESTONE WALL. (See opposite p. 100.)

THE ROCK-WALL IN SUN

Phlox setacea and vars., P. sfel-
laria.

Cistus,
vars.

Berberis Aquifolium, vulgaris.

Rosa spinosissima, luctda, wichu-
riana.

Olearia Haastit.

Cassinia fulvida.

Nepeta Mussint.

Helianthemum and

AT THE FOOT

Acanthus.

Crinum, vars.

Anomatheca cruenta.
Amaryllis Belladonna.
Zephyranthes carinata.
Cistus lusttanicus.
Ozothamnus rosmarintfolius.
Stobea purpurea.

27

Artemisia sericea.

Parochetus communts.

Arnebia echiotdes.

Rosmarinum officinale.

Artemisia Abrotanum.

Achillea umbellata.

Petrocallis pyrenaica.

(By seed) Jberts odorata, Sapo-
maria calabrica, Silene pen-
dula, Sedum ceruleum.

OF THE WALL

Iris stylosa.

Plumbago Larpente.
Anemone fulgens.
Pancratium tllyricum.
Rosemary.

Veronica hulkeana.
Griselinia littoralis.

CHAPTER IV
THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE

A DRY wall with a northern or eastern exposure offers
just as free a field for beautiful planting as one that
looks towards the sun, and it may be assumed that
quite two-thirds of the plants advised for the sunny
wall will flower and do well in the cooler one also,
while this will have other features distinctly its own.
For whereas on the sunny side many South European
species, and members of the sun-loving succulent
families, will find a suitable home, the cool wall will
present a series of garden-pictures almost equal in
number though dissimilar in character.

What will be most conspicuous in the cool wall will
be a luxuriant growth of hardy Ferns, both native and
exotic ; indeed the main character of its furnishing will
be cool greenery in handsome masses, though flowers
will be in fair proportion. Here again, if the wall-
garden is to be seen at its best, and if the plants are to
be shown as well as possible, it will not do to throw
together one each of a quantity of kinds, but a fair
number of two or three kinds at a time should be
arranged in a kind of ordered informality. No actual
recipe or instructions can be given for such planting,
though somewhat of the oo of it may be appre-

WALL-FOOT.

FERNS AT A NORTHERN

ie _

THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE 29

hended from the diagram at p. 61, in which the groups
of each kind of plant are represented by the different
ways of hatching.

It would be well to get into the way of this kind of
planting as a general rule, though here and there one
isolated plant of very distinct character would have
a good effect.

At the foot of the wall would be grand tufts of the
largest of the British Ferns, Male Fern, Lady Fern,
Harts-tongue, Osmunda, and Shield Fern, and with
these, handsome foreigners such as Struthiopteris ger-
manica and several North American kinds. The cool
pale fronds of Harts-tongue (Scolopendrium), in form
and texture so unlike most other Ferns, are valuable
not only for their own sake but for fostering the feel-
ing of shade and coolness that is the main character
of this portion of the garden. When established at
the wall’s foot they are of all Ferns the most willing
to increase by the sowing of their own spores, though
this can easily be helped by shaking a frond whose
fructification is mature along some joint where a young
growth of it is desirable. Be it remembered that
though most Ferns love a bit of peat, Harts-tongue
rejoices in a strong loam, also that Polypodium cal-
careum, as its specific name says plainly, will be thank-
ful for lime. The little Ruta muraria is also a lime
lover. The common Polypody is hardly ever so hand-
some as in a cool wall, while its relatives the Oak and
Beech Ferns will be quite at home in wide joints.

If a specially cool and moist spot is noticed while
the wall is building it will be well to leave out a block

30 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

or two in a couple of courses, and to form a little Fern
cave for the delicate Filmy Ferns (Hymenophyllum),
and if the garden should be near the sea on our south
coast there would be a chance of success with the Sea
Spleenwort (Asplenium marinum) planted in a deep
joint.

The delicately beautiful Cystopzeris, in several kinds,
will be some of the best things in the wall, also the
dainty little Woodstas. The difficult Holly-Fern will
do well in a deep horizontal wall joint, and Parsley
Fern (Allosorus) will be contented with a cool cleft if
liberally fed with chips of slate.

The wide family of Saxifrages will be largely re-
presented in the cool rock-wall. This is a group of
plants that presents so many different forms that it
is one of the most puzzling to amateurs, but it is much
simplified, if, putting aside some of its outlying
members, one thinks of it in its relation to the wall
as mainly of three kinds; the London Pride, the
mossy, and the silvery or encrusted kinds. Every-
body knows London Pride (Saxifraga umbrosum) as
a pretty plant in garden edgings and for ordinary
rock-garden use, but I doubt if it is ever so charming
as when grown in the cool wall, when its dainty
clouds of pink bloom are seen puffing out from among
Fern-frond masses. Then, once seen, it is easy to
recognise the Mossy Saxifrages, of which S. kypnordes
of our northern mountains is the best known. Then
no one who has once seen any examples of the
silvery or encrusted Saxifrages, with their stiff, mostly
strap-shaped leaves bearing along their saw-like edges

LOOA-TIVM TOOD FHL LY SHSOUWIUd CNV VNINNdddy ANOWANV

(-azis oangou 10H) “TIF M AGVHS V NI SQNIdTV SANIYA JO ALAIYVA ALIHM

THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE — 31

that miracle of adornment of limy incrustation, could
fail to recognise the others of this branch of the
family. Most of them thrive in calcareous soil. They
vary in size from the tiny S. cesia to the large
S. longifolia, whose huge rosette, so well shown in
the illustration at p. 27, is followed by a great panicle
of creamy white flower sometimes two feet long
(see p. 100). No plant, except perhaps Ramondia, is
more grateful for the upright position.

The Mossy Saxifrages may be at once recognised
by their mossy appearance. They are for joints near
the bottom and the foot of the wall. The close mossy
form seems to open out and stiffen as it leads to
the handsome S. Camposi and to S. ceratophylla and
others of this intermediate class. Another section of
the Saxifrages, somewhat mossy in appearance though
not classed with them, are S. durseriana and S. junt-
perina. They are the earliest to bloom, the flowers
opening in February; large and pure white, in
striking contrast to the close thick tufts of dark
green foliage. Others of the smaller Saxifrages that
will find a place in the wall are the yellow-flowered
S. sancta, not unlike the last as to its leafy tuft ;
S. oppositifolia, forming spreading or hanging sheets
with red-purple bloom ; and the double-flowered form
of the native S. granulata. S. Cymbalaria is an
annual that will always sow itself; the seedlings are
bright and pretty through the depth of winter.
Several of these Saxifrages, such as S. longifolia, will
do well on the warm wall also, but they are better
seen and enjoyed on the cool one.

32 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

In an important position in the cool wall will be
a good planting of Ramondia pyrenaica. This ex-
cellent plant cannot be too highly estimated. Its
home in nature is in cool clefts in mountain gorges,
where it constantly receives the mountain mists or
the spray of the torrent. It is best in the lower part
of the wall, but if the wall is of fair height and
backed by a cool mass of earth, it is well to have
it on the eye level. Near it should be a plant of
the same family, Haderlea rhodopensis, smooth-leaved, ©
and with much the same habit of growth and yet of
quite different appearance.

The wall will give an opportunity for succeeding
with many Alpine Primulas, some of them difficult
in ordinary rock cultivation. Alpine Auriculas and
any garden Primroses will be charming in some of
the lower joints, and the lovely P. Monroz, or more
properly P. znvolucrata, one of the most dainty of its
family, will here do well. Others worth growing in
the wall will be P. Alkonit, P. glutinosa, P. marginata,
P. nivalis, and P. viscosa.

The beautiful Androsaces, good alike in sun and
shade, will have their place in the wall. The Hima-
layan A. lanuginosa seems to be one of the most
willing to grow in English gardens, where its silky
rosettes of foliage and pretty heads of pink flowers
will fall over the face of the rocks, clothing them in
a charming manner (see p.94). <A. Laggeri of the
Pyrenees and A. carnea and A. chama@jasme of the Swiss
and Austrian Alps should also have a place.

Anemone apennina should be planted in the lower

(‘ssosav your uv stamont) “VYOIVNAYAd VIGNOWVY

SMILACINA BIFOLIA. (One-third life-size.)

THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE 33

joints and also Anemone sylvestris, while A. hepatica
is never so well pleased as when its roots are close to
or among stones.

Snapdragons are grand wall-plants, both in sun
and shade. I think the tender colourings, white,
yellow, and pinkish, are the most suitable for the
cool exposure, and the fine dark crimson reds and
mixed colourings for the warm one.

The many kinds of Houseleek (Sempervivum) are
perhaps better suited for joints in the warmer side of
the wall and warm spaces in the rock-garden, though
many will thrive in the cool wall.

Many a plant that one would scarcely have thought
of putting in the wall will come there of its own will.
Such a lesson I learnt many a year ago from the
pretty little Swzlactna bifolia, which is by nature a
woodland plant. I had put some on the top of a
piece of dry-walling facing north, to fill the space
temporarily while some Andromedas were growing
that were to crown the wall-top. The little plant
grew downward into the chink as the picture shows
and then spread along the next lower course, mak-
ing itself quite at home.

Two of the Acznas will be welcome, namely,
A. microphylla and A. pulchella. ‘The first is the one
most commonly grown, but A. pulchella has merit, not
only on account of the pretty form of the delicately-
cut leaves, but from their unusual bronze colouring.
In the wall also one can more easily escape their
burrs, which are always too ready to catch hold of

clothing.
Cc

34 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia) will be beauti-
ful hanging down among the Ferns, and associated
with Corydalis capnoides. Waldstetnia fragotdes, with its
bright yellow bloom and brightly polished leaves, must
not be forgotten.

Campanula, that large genus that yields species of
the highest beauty for nearly every kind of gardening,
will be represented by several; by C. carpatica and
C. turbinata, as good in shade as in sun, by the tallest
of all, C. pyvamidalis, a grand wall-plant in the milder
parts of our climate, and by the handsome C, Jatz-
folia (best in the white form) and by some of the
smaller kinds, which will include C. puszlla and the
lovely dwarf C. cespitosa, both pale blue and white.
They run along the joints, throwing up their little
bells in such quantities that they jostle one another
and are almost overcrowded. The branch of the
same family detached under the name of Symphy-
andra contains some charming flowers that thrive
in such a place as the cool dry wall, S. pendula doing
well; here also S. Hoffmanni would be at home.

Arenaria balearica is described elsewhere as a capital
cool wall-plant, growing up from below; not only
rooting in the joints but clothing the whole face of
the stones with a kind of close skin of its tiny stalk
and leaf, so that every stony hollow and projection
can be clearly traced through it. A. montana has
larger flowers and a different way of growth, but it
is a good plant for the wall.

Two little plants of neat growth and small white
bloom should have a place—Hutchinsia alpina and

(‘azas oft parys-2uQ) “VITISAd VIQN¥dUNVO

(azas afyy sparyj-om.) “PSOOSIA FTAWIYXd

THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE, 35

Cardamine trifoliata. They suit admirably as com-
panions to some of the smaller Ferns. The Double
Cuckoo-flower (Cardamine pratensis) is an excellent
wall-plant.

The accommodating Crucifere, Arabis, Alyssum,
and Aubrietia will flower just as freely in the cool as
in the warm wall, also the Wallflowers, whether the
garden kinds or the species.

An autumn sowing of Jonopsidium acaule will give
next season a good crop of this charming little plant.
Linaria alpina can also be sown, and Erznmus alpinus,
which seems willing to grow in any position. Garden
Primroses and Anemones are thankful for a place

at the cool wall-foot.

PLANTS FOR THE ROCK-WALL IN SHADE

Ferns, native and foreign.

Saxifrages.

Ramondia pyrenaica.

Alpine Auriculas.

Primula involucrata, Allionii,
glutinosa, marginata, nivalis,
UtSCOSa.

Androsace lanuginosa, carnea,
chamajasme, Laggert.

Anemone appenina, sylvestris,
Hepatica.

Antirrhinum
dragon).

Sempervivum, in variety.

Smilacina btfolta.

Acena microphylla, pulchella.

majus (Snap-

Lysimachia nummularia
(Moneywort).

Corydalis capnoides.

Waldsteinia fragotdes.

Campanula carpatica, turbinata,
pyramidalis, latifolia, pu-
Silla, cespitosa.

Symphyandra pendula,
mannt,

Arenaria balearica, montana.

Hutchinsia alpina.

Cardamine trifoliata.

Cardamine pratensis fi. pl.

Lonopsidium acaule (seed).

Linaria alpina (seed).

Hoff-

CHAPTER V
NATIVE PLANTS IN THE ROCK-WALL

WHEN a wall-garden has been established for some
years one may expect all kinds of delightful surprises,
for wind-blown seeds will settle in the joints and there
will spring up thriving tufts of many a garden plant,
perhaps of the most unlikely kind. Foxgloves, plants
that in one’s mind are associated with cool, woody
hollows, may suddenly appear in a sunny wall,so may
also the great garden Mulleins. When this happens,
and the roots travel back and find the coolness of the
stone, the plants show astonishing vigour. I had some
Mulleins (Verbascum phlomoides) that appeared self-
sown in a south-west wall; they towered up to a
height of over nine feet, and were finer than any
others in the garden ; while everything that is planted
or that sows itself in the wall seems to acquire quite
exceptional vigour.

It sometimes happens also that some common native
plant comes up in the wall so strongly and flowers so
charmingly that one lets it be and is thankful. The
illustration shows a case of this where the wild Stitch-
wort (Stellaria Holostea) appeared in the wall and was
welcomed as a beautiful and desirable plant. Close to
this tuft, which has now HOF five years been one of the

3

STITCHWORT IN A ROCK-WALL. WELSH POPPY AND HARIT'S-
TONGUE FERN AT FOOT.

CORYDALIS LUTEA.

NATIVE PLANTS IN ROCK-WALL 37

best things in the place at its own flowering-time, is a
colony, also spontaneous, of the Shining Cranesbill
(Geranium lucidum), whose glistening, roundish, five-
lobed leaves turn almost scarlet towards the end of
summer. These are both common hedge-weeds, but
so dainty is their structure and kind of beauty that we
often pass them by among the coarser herbage of the
country lanes and hedges, and only find that they are
worthy garden plants when we have them more quietly
to ourselves in the rock-wall. There are other wild
plants that are also worthy of wall space. The Wall
Pennywort (Cotyledon Umbilicus), so common in the
south-west of England, is a precious plant, and is
especially happy in combination with hardy Ferns.
Linaria Cymbalaria is a gem in a rough wall, and,
though a doubtful native, is so generally found as
a wild wall-plant that it takes its place in books
of British botany. The yellow Toadflax (Lznaria
vulgaris) is also a grand wall-plant, and so is the
yellow Corydalis (C. Zu¢ea), though the paler flowered
and more daintily leaved C. capnoides, also known
as C. ochroleuca, is a better plant; just a good shade
more delicate and more beautiful throughout. In
considering the best of the native plants for wall-
gardening, the Welsh Poppy (MJeconopsis cambrica)
must not be forgotten; its place is at the foot
of a wall, and in its lower courses among Ferns.
Nearly all the British Ferns can be grown in walls,
many of them acquiring great luxuriance. As nearly
all are plants that love shade and coolness and
some degree of moisture, they should be in walls

38 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

that face east or north; the larger kinds in the
lower joints and quite at the foot, and many of
the smaller ones in the upper joints. The Common
Polypody runs freely along the joints, and the
shelter preserves the fronds from winter injury, so
that often, when severe weather kills the wild ones
in the lanes and hedges, those that have the pro-
tection of the wall will carry their fronds, as will
also the Harts-tongue, green and perfect through-
out the winter.

It would be well worth having a bit of cool wall
for British plants and Ferns alone ; its beauty would
scarcely be less than that of a wall planted with
exotics.

There are two small English Ferns that do not
object to a dry and sunny place, namely, Asplenzum
Ruta-muraria and Asplenium Trichomanes. They
seem to be fond of the lime in the joints of old
mortar-jointed walls, and able to endure almost any
amount of sunshine. Of the other English plants
that like warm wall-treatment three come at once
to mind; all of them plants so good that for
hundreds of years they have been cultivated in
gardens. These are Thrift, Wallflower, and Red
Valerian. In a sunny wall all these will be at
home. Wallflowers never look so well as in a wall,
where air and light is all around them and where
they grow sturdy and stocky, and full of vigour.
Compare a close-growing, bushy Wallflower in a
wall, with its short-jointed, almost woody stem,
stout and unmoved in a gale of wind, with one

WALL

ASTLE

2

N OLD C.

) IN A

THUS

RAN

CENI

(

AN

Lad nell

RED VAL

NATIVE PLANTS IN ROCK-WALL 39

planted out in a bed. The garden-nurtured plant
will be a foot and a half or two feet high, and its
large heavy head will be beaten about and twisted
by the wind till it has worked a funnel-shaped hole
in the ground, and is perhaps laid flat. Thrift,
that lovely little plant of rocky seashore and wind-
blown mountain top, is indispensable in all rock
and wall gardening, neat and well clothed all
through the year, and in summer thickly set with
its flower-heads of low-toned pink. It loves in
nature to grow along rocky cracks, sending its long
neck and root far down among the stones. There
is a garden form with bright green leaves and
darker coloured flowers, but, though it is un-
doubtedly a more showy plant it is scarcely an
improvement on the type; much of the charm is
lost.

The Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber) is a chalk-
loving plant; it will grow in ordinary soil, but is
thankful for lime in some form. In this, the garden
form of deeper colour is a better plant than the type ;
the colour in this case being deepened to a good
crimson. Another British plant of the chalk that will
also be handsome in the rock-wall is the fine blue-
flowered Gromwell (Lithospermum purpuro-ceruleumr) ;
it throws out long runners like a Periwinkle that
root at the tips. They seem to feel about over the
surface of the wall till they come to a joint where
they can root.

Two of the British wild Pinks, namely, Dzanthus
cesius and D. deltoides, are among the best of plants

40 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

for a sunny wall; and another, not exactly showy but
neat and shrub-like and of considerable interest, well
worthy of a warm place, is the Wood Sage (Teucrium
Scorodonia).

Another charming wild plant for sunny joints and
places on a level with the eye, or for such wall-tops as
would be only as high as eye level, is the Sheep’s
Scabious (/asione montana); neat and pretty, and
worthy of cultivation on wall or dry rock-garden,
where the little plants, each with its large flower-
head, can be grouped rather more closely than in the
heathy wastes where they are generally in a thin
sprinkle among short grass. Another plant for wall-
top, growing willingly in any soil though preferring
lime, is the yellow Rock Rose (Helzanthemum vulgare),
common on sunny banks in chalk districts, and one
of the few species (the others rare or local) that
are the representatives of the large Cistus tribe of
Southern Europe. One more chalk-loving plant
should also be in the sunny wall, Reseda lutea, the
Wild Mignonette; tall, graceful, and sweet scented.
It is best sown in the wall if seed can be obtained.

There are still some native plants for the warm wall
of the succulent class. The Houseleek, so frequent on
the roof of the cottage outhouse ; the tall and stout
Sedum Telephium, the Live-Long of old English
naming (for a spray of it in a room without water
will live a month almost unchanged); and the smaller
Stonecrops, S. anglicum, S. album, and S. acre.

There are still to be named for a wild wall in a cool
shady place some of our small wood plants ; indeed,

“‘TIVM GIO NV NI NUdd AIVW GNP VHLAT SITVGAYOD

NATIVE PLANTS IN ROCK-WALL 41

they seem never happier than when they become
established in the wall joints and chinks. Snch a one
is the Wood Sorrel, one of the daintiest of spring
flowers, whether in wall, garden or wild. Primroses
also take kindly to the lower joints on the shady side,
and the cool wall-foot is the place of all others for one
of the native Irises, 7. fetidisstma, whose dark green
sword-like leaves are good to see throughout the
winter, while in October the seed-pods are opening
and showing the handsome orange-scarlet fruit.

Then the Purple Columbine is a grand cool wall-
plant; the delicate yellow-flowered Wood Pimpernel
(Lysimachia nemorum) will trail happily in some lower
joints; the larger Moneywort is one of the best of
wall draperies; and even two moisture-loving small
things, the Moschatel (Adora) and the Golden Saxi-
frage (Chrysosplenium) will be satisfied with the cool-
ness of the lowest joints and the comfort of the mossy
wall-foot.

CHAPTER VI
TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS

A GRAND old wall is a precious thing in a garden, and
many are the ways of treating it. If it is an ancient
wall of great thickness, built at a time when neither
work was shirked nor material stinted, even if many
of the joints are empty, the old stone or brick stands
firmly bonded, and, already two or three hundred
years of age, seems likely to endure well into the
future centuries. In such a wall wild plants will
already have made themselves at home, and we may
only have to put a little earth and a small plant into
some cavity, or earth and seed into a narrow open
joint, to be sure of a good reward. Often grasses and -
weeds, rooting in the hollow places, can be raked out
and their spaces refilled with better things. When
wild things grow in walls they always dispose them-
selves in good groups; such groups as without their
guidance it would have been difficult to devise inten-
tionally.

So if one had to replant the old moat wall how
pleasant a task it would be to rake out the grasses and
wild Lettuce and other undesirables, saving the pretty
little pale lemon Hawkweed and the Ivy-leaved Toad-
flax and the growth of flags by the culvert, and re-

42

TIVM LVOW GIO NV

‘NAAXD-INITMOW GHSIVA VY DNILUOddNAS TIVM YANNI HLIIM TIVAL LYOW GTO NV

=e 5
ae gte pe

‘ny

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 43

placing the weeds with just a few of the plants that
might occur in such a place ; among others Wallflower
and Red Valerian and the native Stonecrops. In such
a wall, which is outside the garden, and seems rather
to belong to the park, it would be suitable to use
these good native plants rather than exotics, such as
would find a more fitting home within garden ground.
A half-double rambling Rose planted inside, and a
wild Clematis, both ramping and bounding over, and
hanging half-way down to the water, would also make
a pleasant break in the long line of the balustrade.

In the further portion of the same moat, in the
picture showing the roof and window of the tea-house
and the Lombardy Poplars, the lower wall is the con-
tinuation of the same, but here it is more within
garden ground. The upper wall is the retaining wall
of the raised bowling-green, and, but that in this case
the wall is mostly used for fruit trees, would be a per-
fect place for many a little sun-loving rock-plant of
Southern Europe ; for here is that cool backing of the
mass of earth and that exposure to fullest sunshine
that afford the surest prospect of success with such
plants. It is to be hoped that this tempting double
terrace, which seems only to invite the careful minis-
trations of the sympathetic gardener, may some day
be worthily taken in hand.

The double terrace always offers special opportuni-
ties for good gardening, for whereas the single line of
abrupt change of level, unless treated with some bold-
ness, may in certain aspects have a thin and meagre
appearance ; where it is doubled, there is an oppor-

44 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

tunity of treating the two terraces in a much larger
way horticulturally, while equally preserving their
architectural value.

This richness of effect is plainly seen in the fine
example illustrated, though it is open to question
whether it would not have been better still had the
upper wall been carried solid to the height of the
coping of the balustrade, or even higher, and the
upper ground levelled up to it.

But there are fine things in this piece of gardening.
It shows plainly the salutary effect of rambling
growths partly veiling the balustrade, and even of tall
things of the Cypress class doing the same work,
though this came possibly as a happy accident ; such
another accident as those that are of so high a value
in the tree and shrub overgrowths of the old gardens
of Italy. The defect of arrangement in this picture is
a certain monotonous repetition of Gyneriums alter-
nating with Yuccas in the lower border. Here would
have been a grand place for grouping the Yuccas as°
described in the chapter on the Rock-wall in Sun,

One can hardly imagine a more perfect site for a
garden than a place where such an arrangement as
this would be reversed on the further side of the lawn,
so that there would be a range of double terrace on
the shady side as well as on the sunny. Where new
gardens are being made, such a disposition of the
ground is well worth considering, for in many sites
where ground comes awkwardly with regard to a
house—sometimes sloping away diagonally—such a
garden could be laid out.

IDV AAELIL GCINSUONKOXGL 17

OLD GARDEN WALL ENCLOSING A SHRUB GARDEN
OR WILDERNESS,

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 45

Many a good old garden, not of the earlier times
but dating from the latter half of the eighteenth
century, has a large space of pleasure ground within
walls. When these were planted, wire-netting, that
temptingly cheap and useful abomination, had not
been invented, iron was a costly commodity, and if
the pleasant home grounds were to be given a
more permanent fence against deer and cattle than a
wooden one, it must needs be a wall. Here is such
a wall, broken only by the tall piers of masonry
and well-wrought iron gates that lead from the
seclusion of the shady garden to the outer world.
Where there are fairly long stretches of such walls the
artist gardener has good scope for arranging large
effects; for doing something thoroughly well and
just sufficiently, and then passing on to some other
desirable possibility ; for making pictures for all the
seasons in just such well-considered progression, and
just such degree of change or variety as will be most
pleasant and delightful to see.

Good walls often have their opportunities wasted.
There is generally the usual planting of one each of
one thing after another, a wearisome monotony of
variety—a sort of exhibition of samples. Where there
is little wall-space this may be a kind of necessity, but
in these old gardens where the bounding walls run on
for many hundred yards, there is no need for any
such planting.

Thus one may plant in imagination a long stretch
of such wall, beginning at one of the gateways. If
the piers are well designed, the first consideration

46 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

will be not to let them be smothered by the climbing
plants. One of the many beautiful Ivies, not the
common Irish nor any other of the larger leaved
ones, but such a lovely thing as the dainty Caenwood
variety, is just the thing for the piers, and even this
must be watched and perhaps thinned and suitably
restrained every year or two. Next to it and partly
growing among it, and climbing up one pier, a
Clematis Flammula will do well; its delicate clouds
of bloom lovely in September. Then would come
some darker bushes, Chozsya, Bay, or Laurustinus,
and next beyond them something totally different ;
some pale pink Tree Pzonies grouped with Laven-
der, and on the wall with this group, which would
be a longish one, the beautiful May-flowering Clema-
tis montana, not stiffly trained, but only fastened to
the wall here and there, when its blooming masses
will cling together and hang in grand garlands wide-
swung from point to point; some hanging low so
that they are in close association with the Pzonies,
when one of the year’s best flower-pictures will be
to be seen.

Then we will have some garden Roses. The white
Rose (&. alba), single and double, and Maiden’s
Blush—they are not climbing Roses, but such as
will rise to this wall’s height; at their foot will be
more Lavender, and among it bushes of Cabbage
Rose and of Damask and the striped Cottage Maid,
perhaps more commonly known as York and Lan-
caster, a name which, however, belongs of right to
a different Rose of rather the same class. Then we

qTIVYM NACYVD GTALNO GTO

‘LSOT ANVN -SHSOU TYONLAdYdd GINGAH WACTO AHL AO ANO

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 47

would have a good stretch of white Jasmine, sweetest
of late summer flowers.

Following this there should be a good length of
Guelder Rose, delightful as wall clothing in addition
to its usual business as a flowering bush in the open,
and at its foot and flowering at the same season
will be great clumps of the old crimson Pzony.
As for Roses, their uses are endless, but for such
a wall as this the best will be the free-growing Ayr-
shires. If any hybrid perpetuals are to have a
place they had better be some of the older ones,
not now admitted at shows, but such as are often
found in old gardens growing on their own roots,
and sometimes of great age. They are of the highest
value in the garden as the picture well shows. Such
a Rose, though not the one shown, whose name is
lost, is Anna Alexieff; this would be trained free at
full length upon the wall—it is not a climber but
a free grower—and a group of the same at the
foot would be pruned into loose bush form and
grouped with the ever-charming Madame Plantier.
This combination of pink and white good garden
Roses is delightful. One or two Rosemary bushes
would be among these, and then a thicker group of
Rosemary, some of it trained to the wall. And so
on for a good way, with Rosemary and any of the
garden Roses that we may love best, and on the wall
old favourites like Blairii No. 2, Climbing Captain
Christy, and Climbing Aimée Vibert.

Two hundred yards of wall would soon be covered
with even this limited choice of kinds, and then it

48 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

would be time to change the character of the plant-
ing, though perhaps still within the Rose family, so
that next we might have that pretty thornless Tree
Bramble Rudus deliciosus, and below it some of the
other unarmed Brambles, the rosy R. odoratus and
the white R. xutkanus. ‘Then there might come a
stretch of wall for winter bloom; the yellow Winter
Jasmine (/. xudiflorum) and Winter Sweet (Chimon-
anthus fragrans) and Garrya elliptica; the evergreen
branches of the Garrya partly protecting the naked
bloom of the Chzmonanthus.

These are only a few of the combinations that
might be made; while long lengths of wall may
well be given to Vines, with Lilies and Irises at their
foot, and with here and there a thin climber such
as one of the large-flowered Clematises, or Rhodo-
chiton volubile, to run among their branches. For
gate-piers of wrought stone that are in still more
dressed ground nothing is more suitable than that
splendid climber, the best form of Bignonia radicans,
but it is too tender for the cold midlands.

When a garden prospect embraces the view of an
ancient building it seems to reduce the range of choice
to within much narrower limits. In the garden shown
in the picture this has evidently been felt, in that here
is a good planting of the June-flowering Pzonies and
nothing much else. Had it suited the other needs of
the garden as well, it might have been even better to
have planted large masses of sober greenery, as of Yew
and Box, with no other flowers than some bold clumps
of white Lilies and a few bushes of white Roses, and

RUBUS DEEICIOSUS:

SONIGTING GIO OL NOILVIZY NI YACHOU ANOHd V

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 49

perhaps some Rosemary and China Rose or some
other old garden Rose of tender pink colouring. But
the bold forms of the flower and the important leafage
of the Pzonies are good here also; the only thing
that is unworthy of the scheme being the small row
of Pansies next the grass. It would have been better
to let the Pzeonies bush over the edge of the grass ;
the row of small flowers is a petty intrusive incident
in a scene where nothing should sound any note that
jars upon the harmony of noble ancient building and
simple dignity of garden practice.

The gardener may represent that, when masses of
foliage of large herbaceous plant or shrub hang over
the grass, it is difficult to mow to the edge — and
to a certain degree he is right. It is undoubtedly
easier to run the machine along a clearly defined and
unobstructed edge. But if the gardener is the good
fellow that he generally is he will at once understand
that this is just one of the points that makes the differ-
ence between the best and most careful and thought-
ful gardening, and gardening that is ease-loving and
commonplace. In the case of such edges, instead of
a man and a boy with a mowing-machine the man has
a scythe and the boy has a bean-pole. Boy and man
face each other a few paces apart, the boy moves back-
ward, lifting the foliage with his pole, while the man
advances mowing under the held-up leaves. There is
nothing in it that the plainest labourer cannot under-
stand, while the added refinement that is secured is
a distinct gain to the garden. It is only where the

D

so WALL AND WATER GARDENS

labour allowed is already insufficient that the gar-
dener’s plea should be allowed.

Nothing is more frequently to be seen, even in quite
good and well-manned gardens, than this tyranny of
the turf-edge. The same thing appears in the picture
of the bowling-green of a fine old Surrey house ; the
straight edge, which is right against the path, cutting
much too harshly against the front of the flower
border.

The illustration of another flower border in the
same good garden as the one with the Pzonies, where
all things seem to be so well done that there is little
that can be criticised, shows the better way of letting
the plants lap over the broad grass verge. Here is a
wall about twelve feet high, with a noble flower border
at its foot. Already it has an old growth of Ivy, while
the young Magnolia -towards the front, when it
has had a few more years of growth, will repeat the
mass of deep green foliage. Then itsown great leaves
will just suggest that larger scale of permanent foliage
that will better suit the height of the wall. Wisely has
the border been planted with just the very best things ;
with Delphinium and white Lilies in generous masses,
and bold groups of Flag-leaved Irises and bountiful
clumps of Pinks. When the Roses on the wall have
come to their strength and the Pillar Roses have
covered their poles, this flower border will be a fine
example of good hardy gardening.

‘CATH OP- UPA OTA
OL FIGH AXILS OOL V DNIMOHS ‘FSNOH YOCRI GIO NV AO NATHD ONITMOU

‘GC4HuUNIVNW LAX LON YHCUOR-YUYMOTH ACUVH ANY TIFM GYINVTd-TITM V

CHAPTER VII
TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS (continued)

To any one who has both practised and studied garden-
ing for a number of years, and has at last acquired a
glimmering of illumination as to what is best to be
done in the many circumstances presented by various
sites, it is immensely instructive to see gardens or even
to see pictures of them. Perhaps the pictures are
even the best, if there are enough of one place to give
an idea of all its portions, or if there are several illus-
trations of some important feature. In the black and
white presentment of a scene, that can be held in the
hand and examined quietly and at leisure, without the
distractions of brilliant sunshine or colour, or wind or
rain, or the company of one’s fellow-creatures (how-
ever charming and sympathetic they may be), the
merits of the scene can be very fairly judged. It may
therefore be useful to make a few remarks on a de-
finite piece of gardening; an important wall-garden in a
fine place in Somersetshire. The four pictures give an
accurate idea of the steeply terraced garden. The first
shows both terraces, with a glimpse of the walk on the
third or lowest level, and the still steeply sloping grass
below. The next two pictures show the middle level,
looking both ways from nearly midway in its length.
51

52 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

The upper terrace shows not unskilful manage-
ment of a rather abrupt transition from the wooded
slope to pure formality by a nearly symmetrical line
of evergreens. Next comes a grand retaining wall,
buttressed at short intervals and planted with good
wall-shrubs. The wall rises enough to form a parapet
to the upper terrace. The point where each buttress
rises and gives occasion to widen the coping above,
is accentuated by an American Aloe in a pot. The
pots are of plain flower-pot shape and look a little
too plain for this use, although the character of the
walling does not demand vases highly enriched.

The weakest point in the middle terrace is the
poverty of scheme in the succession of small square
beds that break forward in each bay between the
piers, and that seem to be planted without any general
design or distinct intention, but with stiff little edg-
ings showing an outer margin of bare earth. This
would be much improved by putting all the beds
together as to the space nearest the wall; and next
the grass, by leaving the length of the front edge
of two beds and the interval between them, and in
the space represented by the front of the third, swing-
ing the front line back in an arc (not a whole semi-
circle but something shallower), in the centre of
which the pot plants would stand; then continuing
the treatment with the next pair of beds, followed
by the segmental swing-back, and so on throughout.
Moreover, the front line of the beds comes too far
forward into the grass by about one-fourth of its
projection, taken from the line of the front of the

A SDE P SOURHE RN SEO Rs. (Now t.)

aoe TE

(No 2)

t LOOKING EAST.

MIDDLE TERRACE

(Eon) “LSHM DNINOOT FOVUUAL ATACIN

LOWER TERRACE. (No. 4.)

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 53

buttresses. The proportion would be much better
with a greater width of grass and a lesser width of
flowers.

The little fountain basin would then make a re-
versed figure in one of the arcs, and the planting on
each side of it would be symmetrical and rather
important. Such a rearrangement of the beds would
much improve this terrace ; and would give the wall
added dignity and offer more scope for the growing
of handsome groups of plants.

The Yew hedge which forms the parapet of this
terrace and stands just at the top of the lowest wall
is a capital example of its kind, though the garden
would have given a better impression of cohesion
if the wall had been treated in the same way as the
one above. But the planting at its base seems in
these more horticulturally enlightened days to be
quite indefensible. The foot of one of the noblest
ranges of terrace walls in England is too good to be
given over to the most commonplace forms of bed-
ding, whereas it presents the best and most becom-
ing site for some of the noblest of plants; for A/ag-
nolia and Bignonza, Yucca, Carpenteria, Choisya, and
Romneya. Here it would be better to have a much
narrower border against the wall, about half the width
of the present one, and to take some advantage of
the open joints in the upper courses for the planting
of some of the lovely things named in the chapter
on the Sunny Rock-wall.

Perhaps I should offer some apology to the owners
of this fine garden for my presumption in making

54 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

it an object-lesson ; but the many evidences of good
gardening it displays seem an encouragement to the
making of friendly criticism. It is already so good
that it is tempting to contemplate how such a com-
bination of pleasant conditions could be made even
better or be differently treated.

Where there is beautiful architectural proportion
and enriched detail, as in the example of the portion
of a fine old Tudor house shown in the illustration,
it is obvious that it would be most unwise to let it
be over-run with coarse or common creepers. In
this case there is evidence of watchful restraint; the
climbing plants are just enough to clothe sufficiently,
while none of the beauty of the building is unduly
smothered.

The whole question of the relation of vegetation to
architecture is a very large one, and to know what to
place where, and when to stop, and when to abstain
altogether, requires much knowledge on both sides.
The horticulturist generally errs in putting his plants
and shrubs and climbers everywhere, and in not even
discriminating between the relative fitness of any two
plants whose respective right use may be quite differ-
ent and perhaps even antagonistic. The architect,
on the other hand, is often wanting in sympathy with
beautiful vegetation. The truth appears to be that
for the best building and planting, where both these
crafts must meet and overlap and work together, the
architect and the gardener must have some knowledge
of each other’s business, and each must regard with

RESTRAINED USE OF CREEPERS ON AN OLD HOUSE ISLA IBIAS
BEAUTIFUL ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS.

‘SdHLS ANOLS AO SINIO! AHL NI “OLD ‘SITVCINVAAd VTANPdUWNVO

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 55

feelings of kindly reverence the unknown domains
of the other’s higher knowledge. By the gardener
is not meant the resident servant, but the person,
whoever it m&y be, who works with or directly
after the architect in planning the planting.

The terraces just described have so little of special
architectural design that they may be considered as
belonging entirely to the garden, so that there is no
reason why they may not be treated with absolute
freedom.

One of the careful gardener’s duties is to watch,
not the growth only, but the overgrowth of plants,
trees, and shrubs. In many a garden some over-
growth of shrub or tree may be of the highest
pictorial value. Sometimes wild plants will come in
stonework and come just right, or seeds of garden
plants will find lodgment in a crack or joint of
masonry, and provide some new or attractive feature
that had never been thought of. Often Ferns and
small wild things will grow in the joints of walls and
steps on any cool exposure. It is well worth while
to notice the willingness of plants to grow in such
places, and to encourage or restrain as may be need-
ful. In the wide stone steps of the Gloucestershire
house with the pedimented doorway are some seed-
ling plants of several ages of the handsome white
Chimney Campanula (C. pyramidalis); it also grows
spontaneously in the wall of a shallow area to the
basement of the same building. In these steps the
growth of this and other plants has been encouraged.
They are perhaps rather more scattered all over the

56 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

steps than is desirable. The sentiment conveyed by a
shallow flight is one of welcome and easy access, and
it is best that no plants should be allowed to invade
the middle space, or at any rate none so large that
they rise to the height of a single step. But the
presence of such plants gives a keen delight to the
flower lover, even though his sympathies with archi-
tecture may tell him that for plants to be in such
a place is technically wrong. This picture calls to
mind the story of how the common Harebell (Cam-
panula rotundifolia) is said to have come by the
specific name that seems so little descriptive of the
very narrow leaves of the flower-stalks, though the
less noticeable root leaves are roundish. It is said that
Linnzus observed it as a little round-leaved plant,
growing in the joints of the steps of the University
of Upsala, and named it from its rounded foliage of
winter and spring.

The Ivy-leaved Toadflax is a charming plant in the
joints of steps, and so are some of the smaller Cam-
panulas, such as cespztosa and pusilla, and even some
rather larger kinds, as turbinata and carpatica.

In the other example of weed and grass-grown
steps, the overgrowth needs restraining and regulat-
ing. The lowest of the six steps badly wants the
shears, and the invasion of the small-leaved Ivy, which
would be desirable if not quite so thick, is also com-
plicated and made to look untidy by many tufts of
grass that would be much better away.

The Scotch walled garden, with its fine row of

‘NAOYDUAAO HONW OOL ‘SdYLS NAdCUVI

BRIDGE WITH WILD OVERGROWTH, SHOWING A GOOD COMBINATION OF MASONRY

AND VEGETATION.

TERRACE AND GARDEN WALLS 57

Pansies, shows the value of good groups of trees in
connection with walls.

There is many a dismal wall, or court with paving
right up to the wall, where the clever placing of some
suitable plant in a chink of broken-cornered flag-
stone, or empty joint close to the wall-foot, may
redeem the dulness and want of interest of such a
region of unbroken masonry. The plants most suit-
able for such a place are Male Fern and Harts-tongue,
Welsh Poppy, and Jris fetidissima ; all but the Poppy
having also the advantage of winter beauty. Just
lately in my own home I have had an example of the
willingness of a pretty plant to grow in the little space
offered by the meeting of two paving-stones, one of
which had lost an angle. Here a seed of Mimulus
cupreus grew self-sown, and the neat little plant, with
its rich, deep orange bloom flowering all the summer,
is a joy to see. This would also be a plant for the
stone-paved sunless court with others of its family,
including the common Musk.

The picture of a fine stone bridge in the north of
England shows how much a good and simple structure
gains by the invasion of Ivy and wild things of even
more bushy growth. Here is a beneficent piece of
human work in a naturally beautiful landscape of
wood and water. Stream and forest accept the man-
wrought bridge and offer it welcome and brother-
hood by adorning it with the friendly growths, whose
masses are so admirably disposed, that the scene

58 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

becomes a picture that is very much the better for
the presence of the bridge, while the bridge itself
is much the more beautiful for the neighbourly
invasion.

The same influence of vegetation in softening the
aspect of rugged architecture may be seen wherever
there are old buildings; its presence investing the
ancient structure with a whole new range of qualities
that excite the keenest interest in cultivated minds.
For who can see the splendid work of human
design and skill as shown in this grand rough-hewn
masonry, absolutely adapted to its own work, and
yet, from its complete sympathy with surrounding
nature, seeming to grow spontaneously out of the
rocky gorge; who can see this, made all the more
perfect by the lovely work of God in the dainty
Fern fronds of the Maidenhair, without a thrill of
humble admiration and thankfulness ?

~Hutsaq & earn

ARCHES: PESCINA ANAGNI, ITALY.

‘dHAO YVTOOUdd GNVY TIVM-AUd NI SINVTd HLIM ADVSS¥d GHDID¥Y TA YOOCLNO NV

CHAPTER VIII
SOME PROBLEMS IN WALL-GARDENING

Tue illustration shows one of the many pleasant
ways in which a little careful study of ground pro-
blems and ingenious adaptation of material can be
worked out and made into a simple thing of beauty
and delight.

A half-sunk garden passage leads on a gentle uphill
slope from house to stables. The walls are of blocks
of stone with wide joints, all laid a little sloping back, _
so that the whole face of the two walls lies back. The
wall was planted, both as it was built, and also after-
wards, with quantities of spring-flowering plants ;
Arabis, Aubrietia, Violets, Pinks, Cerastium, and
others of early bloom. The crowning pergola, on
which grow Vines only (late-leafing in England),
does not over-shade the early flowers when they are
in bloom, while later it rather gives them comfort by
sheltering them from the summer sun-heat. The
path is paved with flags so that it neither wants weed-
ing nor repair from being washed out, while the very
easiest sweeping keeps it clean.

Many are the unsightly and featureless places that
by some such treatment might be made beautiful, and
more quickly than in any other way of gardening ;

59

60 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

for the wall-plants having their roots always cool seem
to grow away quickly at once, and yet to be longer-
lived than their own brother plants in the more level
garden.

Indeed, wall-gardening is not only extremely in-
teresting and soon rewarding, but it seems to quicken
the inventive faculty ; for if one has once tasted its
pleasures and mastered some of the simpler ways of
adapting it for use, others are sure to present them-
selves, and a whole new region of discursive delights
offers itself for the mental exploration of the horti-
culturally inventive. One after another, pleasant
schemes come to mind, soon to be fashioned, with
careful design and such manual skill as may have
been acquired, into such simple things of beauty
and delight as this first flower-walled and then Vine-
shaded pleasant pathway.

Besides the wall-gardening that may be designed
and reared, there is also that which is waiting to be
done in walls that are already in being. Sometimes
there is an old wall from whose joints the surface
mortar has crumbled and fallen. Such a wall as is
shown in the illustration is indeed a treasure, for its
rugged surface can soon be jewelled with the choicest
of mural vegetation.

But so good a chance is not for every garden, for
often the wall that one would wish to make the home
of many a lovely plant is of the plainest brick or stone,
and the mortar joints are fairly sound. Still the ardent
wall-gardener is not to be daunted, for, armed with a
hammer and a bricklayer’s cold chisel, he knocks out

"ININAGUVD TIVM OL GALdVGV TTAM ‘SLNIO[ NAdO HLIM TIF M GIO NV

“SINIOL TIVM NI SINVTd AO SANIY YNOT AO ONIGNOYD ONIMOHS NVADVIA

PROBLEMS IN WALL-GARDENING 61

joints and corners of bricks (when a builder is not
looking on) exactly where he wishes to have his ranges
of plants.

A well-built wall, seasoned and solidified by some
years’ standing, will bear a good deal of such knocking
about. In chiselling out the holes the only thing that
had better be avoided is making much of a cavity just
under an upright joint; nor is it ever needful, for
even if one wishes to have a longish range of any
one plant, as shown in the diagram in the case of the
growth horizontally hatched, the plants will close up,
though planted in the first place a little way apart, while
there is nothing against widening any upright joint or
making it gape funnelwise either upward or down.

The diagram gives a general indication of the way
in which it is advised that plants should be disposed.
It shows four kinds in a section of wall of from six to
seven feet long. Three of the kinds are hatched across
in different ways to distinguish them. Even this sort
of arrangement would be monotonous unless it were
varied by some wall spaces left almost blank, and then
perhaps with one such range alone. The four kinds
are almost too many at a time, and were only crowded
in to illustrate the same kind of arrangement with
slight variations. The way of growth must, of course,
be taken into account, for it would be a grievous
oversight to plant a range of Rock Pinks or Arabis or
Alyssum, that in a year or two will hang down two
feet, and to plant in the next course below them some
other smaller things that would soon be smothered.
So the upright growth of Wallflower, Snapdragon, and

62 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Valerian must be considered and allowed for as well
as the down-drooping of those that make hanging
sheets. So also the neat stay-at-home habit of Thrift
will be taken into account, and the way of running
along a joint of Polypody and Campanula cespitosa.

From March to May, or just after they ripen in the
autumn, seeds are put in mixed with a little loamy earth,
and if the cleft or opening is an upright one, unwilling
to retain the mixture, a little stone is wedged in at the
bottom or even cemented in. For a plant of rather
large growth, like Valerian(Centranthus),a whole coping
brick can be knocked off the top, and probably quite
a nice rooting-place be made with the downward-
digging chisel, to be filled up with suitable soil.

By some such means, and always thinking and
trying and combining ideas, the plainest wall can ina
couple of years be so pleasantly transformed that it is
turned into a thing of flowery beauty. There is no
wall with exposure so hot or so cold that has not a
plant waiting for just the conditions that it has to offer,
and there will be no well-directed attempt to convert
mural ugliness into beauty whose result will not be an
encouragement to go on and do still better.

‘GHINVId F€@ ATISVA GTNOD SASUNOD UAddN ZSOHM AO SINIOL FHL TIVM MOIUT V

Hien x a2rrrs

ARABIS; TYPE OF A HANGING WALL PLANT FOR USES
DESCRIBED IN LAST CHAPTER.

CHAPTER IX
WHEN TO LET WELL ALONE

IN garden arrangement, as in all other kinds of deco-
rative work, one has not only to acquire a knowledge
of what to do, but also to gain some wisdom in
perceiving what it is well to let alone. The want
of such knowledge or discrimination, or whatever it
may be called, is never more frequently or more
conspicuously shown than in the treatment of grassy
spaces in pleasure grounds, that are planted at the
discretion of some one who has not the gift of know-
ing what kind of placing, of what trees or shrubs, is
the most advisable.

Such a one naturally says, “Here is a space of turf
otherwise unoccupied, let us put there a specimen
tree.’ It may be a place in which the careful and
highly cultured garden critic may say, “Herel ist a
space of turf, let us be thankful for it, and above all
things guard it from any intrusion.” I call to mind
two good places where there is a dignified house, and
groups of grand trees, and stretches of what should be
unbroken level sward. In older days it was so; the
spreading branches of the great Cedars and Beeches
came down to the lawn, and on summer evenings
the shadow of a noble sels of ancient trees swept

3

64 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

clear across the grassy level. The whole picture was
perfect in its unity and peace, in its harmony of line
and fine masses of form—full of dignity, repose, and
abounding satisfaction.

Now the noble lawn-levels have been broken by a
dotting about of specimen Conifers. One Adies nord-
mannia, one Thuya, one Wellingtonia, one Araucaria,
one Taxodium, and so on, and so on. What once
was a sanctuary of ordered peace is now a wearisome
and irritating exposition of monotonous common-
place. The spiritual and poetical influences of the
garden are gone. The great Cedars are still there,
but from no moderately distant point can they now
be seen because of the impertinent interposition of
intruding “specimens.” ;

Like many another thing done in gardens, how
much better it would have been not to have done
it; to have left the place unspoilt and untormented
by these disastrous interlopers. If only it had just
been let alone!

The illustration shows a noble house in South
Middle England. The picture is complete. The
great building is reflected in the still water, and the
natural water margin, without any artificial planting,
is wisely left alone. It is all so solemn, so dignified,
that any added fussiness of small detail, however
beautiful in itself, would be a kind of desecration.
There are plenty of other opportunities for garden-
ing about this fine place, already wisely treated, and
though it is tempting to plant any edge of pool or

FOCTYALPM LFZINO GN¥ FO¥dS NMVT NANOUINA HLIM ‘ASNOH ANID V

‘ANOTV LYT 1LSYE ‘100d GOOM.V

WHEN FO LET WELL ALONE — 65

river, happily it has those for its owners who, with
wise discrimination, see that it is better let alone.

So again in the case of a wild forest pool, such as
the one shown in the picture. Here is a glimpse of
quiet natural beauty ; pure nature untouched. Being
in itself beautiful, and speaking direct to our minds
of the poetry of the woodland, it would be an ill deed
to mar its perfection by any meddlesome gardening.
The most one could do in such a place, where deer
may come down to drink and the dragon-fly flashes
in the broken midsummer light, would be to plant
in the upper ground some native wild flower that
would be in harmony with the place but that may
happen to be absent, such as Wood Sorrel or Wood
Anemone; but nothing that would recall the garden.
Here is pure forest, and garden should not intrude.
Above all, the water-margin should be left as it is.
Foreign Irises, so good to plant by many garden
pools, would here be absurd and only painfully ob-
trusive, and as the place is already right it is far best
left alone. There are many places that call aloud for
judicious planting. This is one where all meddling
is forbidden.

CHAPTER X
THE STREAM-GARDEN AND MARSH POOLS

WHERE there is a stream passing through the out-
skirts of a garden, there will be a happy prospect
of delightful ways of arranging and enjoying the
beautiful plants that love wet places. Even where
there are no natural advantages of pictorial environ-
ment, given a little sinking of the level and the least
trickle of water, with a simple and clever arrange-
ment of bold groups of suitable plants, a pretty
stream-picture may be made, as is seen by the illus-
tration of the water-garden in a good nursery near
London.

But where there is a rather wider and more copious
stream, rippling merrily over its shallow bed, there
are even wider possibilities. The banks of running
water where the lovely Water Forget-me-not grows
are often swampy, and the path that is to be carried
near one of them may probably want some such treat-
ment as is recommended in the early part of the
chapter on Water Margins. When a water-garden is
being prepared by the side of any such stream, the
course of the path may well be varied by running first
close against the water and shen going a yard or two

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THE STREAM-GARDEN 67

inland ; then it might cross on stepping-stones and
again run inland and perhaps pass behind a little knoll
and then again come back to the stream. Then the
stream might divide, and the path be carried between
two rills, and so on in a progression of varied incident
that would be infinitely more interesting than if the
path kept to one bank nearly always at the same
distance from the water after the manner of a towing-
path.

I am supposing my stream to run along the bottom
of a little valley. Close to it the ground is open,
except for a few tufts of low wild bushes. As the
ground rises it is wooded, first with sparse copse-wood
and groups of Birches and Hollies; and after this
a rather thick wood of Scotch Fir.

Having pleasantly diversified the path in relation
to the stream, we have to think how best it may
be planted. Some of the plants suited to the running
stream edge will be the same as for the margins of
stiller ponds, but some that have a liking for running
water will be proper to the stream itself. Such a one
is the Water Forget-me-not. If it does not occur in
the neighbourhood it is easy to raise quite a large
stock from seed; and strong seedlings or divisions
of older plants have only to be planted in the muddy
soil at the water edge when they will soon grow into
healthy spreading sheets and give plenty of the dainty
bloom whose blue is the loveliest of any English plant.
Next to the Forget-me-not on the water edge, and also
a little more inland, I should plant the double Meadow-

68 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Sweet, the double garden form of the wild Spzr@a
Ulmaria, and again beyond it, quite out of sight of
the Forget-me-not, others of the herbaceous Spirzas,
S. palmata, S. venusta, and S. Aruncus—all moisture-
loving plants. Drifts of these might spread away
inland, the largest of them, which would be of Spzv@a
Aruncus, being placed the furthest from the stream ;
they are plants of bold aspect, showing well at a little
distance.

I should be careful not to crowd too many different
plants into my stream-picture. Where the Forget-
me-nots are it would be quite enough to see them
and the double Meadow-Sweet, and some good
hardy moisture-loving Fern, Osmunda or Lady Fern.
The way to enjoy these beautiful things is to see
one picture at a time; not to confuse the mind
with a crowded jumble of too many interesting
individuals, such as is usually to be seen in a water-
garden.

Close by the stream-side and quite out of view of
other flowering plants should be a bold planting of
Tris levigata, the handsome Japanese kind, perhaps
better known as /yis Kempferi. It is in varied
colourings of white, lilac, and several shades and kinds
of purple; but for this stream, where it is desirable to
have the simplest effects, the single pure white alone
will be best. There are double varieties, but in these
the graceful purity of the form is lost and the char-
acter of the flower is confused. The best way to
grow them in England is in the boggy margin, not in

KAEMPFERI.

SYA, Ie

IRIS LASVIGATA

ROWS IN JAPAN.

I

IRIS LAEVIGATA OR KAEMPFERI, AS IT C

THE STREAM-GARDEN 69

the stream itself; for though seeds will fall and ger-
minate in shallow water, planted roots do better just
out of it, but always with their heads in the full sun-
shine. This is one of the many cases where the
natural ways of a plant cannot be followed in our
gardens, for in Japan they commonly grow with the
roots submerged. Some plants of bright green foliage,
such as the handsome branched Bur-reed (Sparganium
ramosune) will fittingly accompany groups of this noble
Water Iris.

The yellow Mimulus (JZ. /uteus) is a capital thing
for the stream-side ; once planted it will take care of
itself; indeed it has become naturalised by many
streams in England. Another interesting and pretty
plant that would do well in its company is the
only English representative of the Balsams, /mpatzens
Noli-me-tangere,; it is an annual, but will sow itself
again.

It should be noted that in such a stream-garden it
will usually be the opposite side that is best seen, and
this should be borne in mind while composing the
pictures and setting out the path.

It is well worth while to consider some pleasant
arrangement of colour in the way the varied flower-
pictures will present themselves in the course of a
walk; thus, after the blue Forget-me-not with the
white Spirzeas might come the pink and rosy colour-
ings of Spzr@a venusta and S. palmata.

As the stream leads further away we begin to forget

70 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

the garden, and incline towards a wish for the
beautiful things of our own wilds, so that here
would be, for the earliest water flowers of the year,
the smaller of the wild kinds of Water Buttercup
(Ranunculus aquatilis). The larger kind, more frequent
near London, R. grandifiorus, is figured elsewhere.
The smaller one is in better proportion to the size
of the little stream. The picture shows how it grows
in pretty patches, though the stream is not the
one that is being described. Near it, but flowering
later, are some strong patches of the native yellow
Water Iris (7. Pseud-acorus), some of the same being
in a swampy patch a yard or two from the bank
on the other side of the path, with some of the
handsome smooth-leaved rank growth of the Water
Dropwort.

A little further the tall yellow Loosestrife (Lysz-
machia) will make some handsome patches; then will
come a few yards of rest from bright flowers and a
region of Fern-fringed stream bank, where the Lady
Fern, one of the most delicately beautiful of water-
side plants, should have a good space; some plants
almost touching the water and others a little way up
the bank.

After this the character of the stream shows a
change, for here is a clump of Alders, the advance
guard of a greater number that are to be seen
beyond. Now it is time to make some important
effect with plants of a larger size, that will prepare
the eye, as it were, for the larger scale of the water-

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THE STREAM-GARDEN viv

loving trees. Here, therefore, we have a widespread
planting of these large things. By the stream on one
bank a long-shaped mass of the rosy Loosestrife
(Lythrum), and detached patches of the same hand-
some plant, and grouped near and partly with it the
Giant Cow-Parsnip (Heracleum). The one so long in
cultivation is a grand plant in such a place, but still
better is the newer H. mantegazzianum. On the other
bank is the native Butter-bur (Petasztes) with its
immense leaves, a striking contrast in leaf-form to its
neighbours.

Now the stream passes into the swampy region of
Willows and Alders, and the path follows it only a
little way in; but already we have been among great
clumps of Marsh Marigold, some close down to the
stream edge in the open, and some in wet hollows a
yard or two away. But in the dark pools of mud and
water under the Alders the clumps grow larger and
more luscious, and in April they are a sight to see,
showing sheets of rich yellow bloom, that look all the
brighter rising alone from the black pools under the
trees.

The path that has hitherto accompanied the stream
now turns away from it, and on its return journey
skirts the streamward side of some boggy pools and
oozy places that lie at the foot of the wood’s edge.
The wood is mostly of Scotch Fir, with a lesser
number of Oaks, Hollies, and Birches in the opener
parts. It slopes down to the little valley, ending in a

72 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

ragged line of low scarp never more than four feet
high, showing dark peaty earth, and below it whitish
or yellowish sand more or less stained by the darker
soil above. The drainage from the wooded hill seems
to gather in the chain of pool and swamp at the foot.
The pools lie perhaps two feet above the level of
the stream ; here and there a sort of natural shallow
ditch carries the water into it from them. The water
seems to drain out of the hill very slowly, for nowhere
does it run, and only near the stream, which is about
fifty yards away, can one sometimes hear a tiny trickle.
It is an ideal place for a wild garden of plants that
like boggy ground and cool wood-side places. The
wood rises to the south-west, so that the marshy
region is mostly in shade. Between this boggy belt
and the stream is rough grass and a few low thorn
bushes and brambles, in ground which is not exactly
marshy, but always cool and damp.

Some of the Firs that come down to the very edge
of the wood stand on the low scarp of blackish sandy-
looking ground. Here and there it is broken down
into a little gently-sloping bank that sucks up the
moisture from below and is sunless from the shading
of the wood. These little banks, naturally mossy, are
just the place for Lzmn@a and for Pyrola and Trien-
talis, three plants of a nature that is neither large
nor showy, but that has that charm that cannot
be described, that makes the heart leap, and frames
the lips into the utterance of an exclamation of
joy and thankfulness, and that holds the mind en-

THE STREAM-GARDEN 73

thralled by the subdued and mysterious poetry of
beauty that is a character of these lovely little modest
growths of the woodland wilds of our own and other
lands.

Here too, rather more in the open, is the Mountain
Avens (Dryas octopetala), and in that moist hollow,
almost swampy and always somewhat in shade, is
Epigea repens, the May-flower of New England.
Then in the damp grass, more towards the stream,
there are here and there tufts of the two Marsh
Orchids with flowers of greenish purple, and hand-
some clear-cut foliage, the Marsh Helleborine and
the broad-leaved Helleborine (Zpipactis palustris and
E. latifolia).

In a place like this these beautiful things can be
seen and enjoyed at ease, and far better than when
they are cramped close together in a smaller space.
Here again will be the marsh-loving Ferns, and fore-
most among them great groups of the Royal Fern
(Osmunda) at the edge of one of the small marshy
pools that are deeply fringed and sometimes filled with
the pale-green bog-moss Sphagnum.

These little still pools, some of them only a yard or
two across, are not stagnant, for they are constantly
fed by the trickle of the springs, and the moisture—
scarcely running water—finds its slow way to the
stream. ‘Their fringes are a paradise for Ferns. Be-
sides the Royal Fern there are two of the largest and
most graceful of British Ferns, Asplentum Filix-feemina
and Nephrodium dilatatum (Dilated Shield Fern), and

74 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

down at the moistest pool edge are MNephrodium
Thelypteris and Lomaria, and a little way up on the
cool bank, always in shade, the North American
Onoclea sensibilis. Ina moist nook already filled with
Sphagnum, in this region of Fern beauty, and with
the dusky wood beyond, is a considerable planting of
the North American Mocassin-flower (Cypripedium
spectabile), with its great pouched and winged flowers
of rose and white, and its fine pleated leaves of bright
fresh green. Whata plant! Its beauty almost takes
away one’s breath. Any one who had never seen it
before, suddenly meeting it in such a place, with no
distractions of other flower-forms near, would think it
was some brilliant stove Orchid escaped into the wild.
It loves to throw its long cord-like roots out into black
peaty mud, when they will grow strong and interlace
into a kind of vegetable rook’s-nest. Every year the
tufts will become stronger and send up still nobler
spikes of leaf and bloom.

Such a sight seems to give the mind a kind of full
meal of enjoyment of flower beauty, and it is well that
following it there shall be some plant of quite another
class. So the next boggy patch has another American
plant of a very different form, the curious Sarracenia
purpurea; a weird, half-hooded trumpet of a thing, of
a dull-green colour, closely veined with red purple,
and near it, in striking contrast to its mysterious
aspect, the frank and pure-looking Grass of Parnassus
(Parnassia palustris), with its white bloom daintily
veined with green and its pretty pearl-like buds. Near

(See next page.)

GALAX APHYLLA.

THE STREAM-GARDEN 75

these may also be Pinguicula grandifiora, the finest of
the native Butterworts, that grows in the bogs of the
south-west of Ireland, and looks like handsome Violets
rising from the pale-green bog-moss.

One spot of Sphagnum-haunted bog-land should
have some of the native marsh plants that are perfect
gems of beauty. The little Bog Pimpernel, whose
small pink flowers remind one of those of Lzznzea, the
more so that they are generally borne in pairs, though
of different habit, in that they stand up instead of
drooping. Then there will be the Ivy-leaved Bell-
flower, smallest of its kind, its flowers carried on
hair-like stalks, and its little leaves of tenderest tissue,
Ivy-like with pointed lobes. Then the small Cornish
Moneywort (Szbthorpia europea), not hardy in the
north, with pretty tender pale-green leaves and
flowers scarcely noticeable ; and here may be grown
the two little native Bog Orchids, Malaxis and
Liparis. All these are such small things that they
might easily be overlooked unless one knew that in
such a special place they were to be found for a little
searching.

At a place where the bank between wood and
marsh is cool and moist, yet not boggy, will be
Gaultheria procumbens, closely carpeting the ground
with its neat sheets of green lighted up by its bright
red berry, and above it and stretching in under the
Firs its larger relative, Gaultheria Shallon. On some
cool mossy bank there will be two charming little

76 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

plants, one native, one North American—Goodyera
repens, With its brightly veined and marbled leaves,
creeping close to the ground, where it may have to
be looked for among the moss, and MWztchella repens,
the Partridge Berry. This little plant also creeps
among the moss. It has neat entire leaves veined
with white, and bright red berries following whitish
flowers.

Another plant from North America, a strange, hand-
some thing that deserves to be better known, will have
a place in this region. Out of bloom it would never
be noticed among its neighbouring clumps of Royal
Fern, for it looks only like a tuft of grass; but when
it throws up its tall flower-spikes, Xerophyllum is a
plant that commands admiration and even some sur-
prise. It flourishes in a peaty place that is cool and
damp though not swampy. Another plant of con-
siderable beauty, Galax aphylla, likes exactly the same
conditions, with a little shade added. This is another
of the good things that has come to us from North
America, and is a precious plant in several ways of
gardening ; it is so neat and pretty that it is suitable
as a single plant among the choicest things in a re-
stricted collection, while in the wild garden it is
equally in place in considerable masses. It thrives
where there is peat or sandy leaf-mould that can
always be kept a little moist, and though rather
slow at first, yet as soon as the tufts begin to grow
strongly they increase, spreading outwards, fairly fast.
The flowers are gracefully carried on thin, strong,

f-EROPHYLLUM ASPHODELOIDES.,

THE STREAM-GARDEN 7

almost wire-like stems, and the leaves, tough and
leathery, though not thick, assume a beautiful winter
colouring. .

Some charming native bog-plants must also not
be neglected. The Bog Asphodel (Narthecium), with
its straight spikes of yellow bloom and neat sheaves
of small Iris-like leaves; the Cotton Grass (E£7z0-
phorum), and the Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia).
These all thrive in beds of Sphagnum.

Here also should be the bog-loving Heath (Z72ca
tetralix), the Pink Bell Heather, and its white variety,
and our native Sweet Bog Myrtle. Sweeter still and
here in place will be the Canadian Candleberry Gale
(Myrica cerifera), and another of the same most
fragrant-leaved family, Comptonia asplenifolia, the
“Sweet Fern” of the Northern States.

One little marsh pool must be given to Cadla
palustris, rooted in the margin and spreading to-
wards the water; a very clean-looking plant with
its solid leaves and ivory-white flowers. Its near
relative and natural associate, Ovontium, may well
be with it, rising from the bottom in water about
a foot deep.

In the green space of rough grass between the
marsh pools and the running water, there is already
a fair quantity of the pretty pink-flowered Marsh
Rattle (Pedicularis), and in the same region Gentiana
Pneumonanthe has been planted. There is no occa-
sion to cram this space with plants, and yet it is
pleasant to come across surprises; here and there a

78 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

clump of some good Fern, or, in the drier places,
some interesting Bramble.

The lower part of the little valley (the Marsh
Marigold and Alder region is at the upper) is less
peaty ; in parts more of an alluvial loam. Here the
English Fritillaries are at home in scattered groups,
some purple and some white. Here also will be repre-
sentatives of the small Trumpet Daffodils, VW. Pseudo-
narcissus, IV. nanus, and N. minor; and here will be
the Globe-flowers (Zvo//ius) and the handsome purple-
blue-flowered Geranium pratense.

PLANTS FOR THE STREAM AND STREAM-SIDE

Myosotis palustris. Spirea Ulmaria fi. pil.
Spirea palmata. S. venusta.

S. Aruncus. Osmunda regalts.

Tris levigata. Asplenium Filix-femina.
Mimulus luteus. Impatiens Noli-me-tangere.
Ranunculus aquatilis. Iris Pseud-acorus.
Lysimachia vulgaris. Lythrum Salicaria roseum.
Fleracleum giganiteum. Petasites vulgaris.

H. mantegazzianum. Caltha palustris.

PLANTS FOR DAMP PEATY BANK

Linnea borealis. Pyrola minor.
Trientalis europaeus. P, arenaria.
Dryas octopetata. Epigea repens.
Gaultheria procumbens. Goodyera repens.
G. Shallon. Mitchella repens.
Asplenium Filix-femima. Lomaria spicant.

Nephrodium dilatatum. Osmunda regalis.

THE STREAM-GARDEN

PLANTS FOR PEATY BOG-POOLS AND BEDS
OF SPHAGNUM

Cypripedium spectabile. Sarracenia purpurea.
Calla palustris. Orontium aquaticum.
Parnassia palustris. Pinguicula grandifiora.
Anagallis tenella. Campanula hederacea.
Sibthorpia europea. Malaxis paludosa.
Liparis Loeseltt. Narthecium ossifragum.
Eriophorum angustifolium. Drosera rotunditolta.

IN CooL PEAT

Aerophyllum asphodeloides. Galax aphylla.

IN DAMP GRASS NEAR STREAM

Pedicularis palustris. Gentiana Pneumonanthe.
Fritillaria Meleagris. Trollius europaeus.
Geranium pratense. Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus.

Narcissus nanus. LV. minor.

79

CHAPTER XI
THE ROCK-GARDEN—GENERAL ARRANGEMENT

AFTER the marsh pools and still on the homeward
journey, and between this region and the shrubbery
portion of the garden proper, will be the rock-garden
(see plan, p. 89), approached on the marsh side by
some of the plants of rather large size. Nothing is
more strikingly beautiful than a large patch of Eguz-
setum Telmateia, a native plant; mysterious, graceful,
and almost tropical-looking. Near it there are two
large-leaved plants, Saxtfraga peltata, in moist rich
soil carrying its great leaves three feet high, and
Rodgersia podophylla, with palmate leaves as large as
those of the Horse Chestnut, but the divisions hand-
somely jagged at the ends, and the whole leaf of
a fine reddish-bronze colouring. It is sometimes
crippled by late frosts, and well deserves the protec-
tion of a few Fir boughs.

If there is space enough here would also be a place
for the giant Gunneras (besides their other water-side
sites), and for another spreading patch of Heracleum
mantegazzstanum, for Arundo Donax, and for the Bam-
boos. These giant Reeds and Grasses should in such
a good garden as this have a large space, of which
they would be the chief igs aes They should be

ZENOBIA (ANDROMEDA) SPECIOSA (FULL SIZE).
(Type of small evergreen flowering shrub for the Rock-Garden.

THE ROCK-GARDEN 81

in bold, informal clumps, with easy grassy ways pass-
ing between. In the present case the fringe of their
masses on the rock-garden side is approached by
shrubs that will enjoy the same conditions. These
will be Kalmias, Azaleas, Ledums, Andromedas, Vac-
ciniums, Gaultherias, and Myricas, the bog and peat-
loving shrubs. Of these the Kalmias and Myricas will
suit the dampest places. As clumps or groups of
these approach the rock-garden they will join on to
it without any jarring obstruction. The green path
that skirts the cool foot of the mound or promontory
that forms the rock-garden will only be one of
several others that pass among the Bamboos and join
the path that we came along by the bog pools. The
plan shows the general arrangement. Even where the
peaty foot of the rock mound comes down to the
level, the rock-garden’s influence will still cross the
grass path; for the same kind of planting is continued
on the other side, only then dying away into the larger
growths that will continue the scheme of planting in
that direction.

Now we are clear of the Fir-wood hill, and the
ground to the south-west, though still slightly rising,
and thinly wooded with Oak, Thorn, and Holly, is not
steep enough to shade the rock-garden ; moreover, some
trees have been cut away to ensure that full light and
clear air space that so many rock-plants need.

The rock-garden has been made in what was a
natural knoll of sharply rising ground, or rather a

kind of promontory thrust out from the wood.
F

82 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Three main paths pass through it; the one on the
right skirts the natural foot of the promontory, passing
first north-east, then north, then a little north-west ;
the one to the left mounts its shoulder by an easy
ascent, partly excavated so as to give rocky banks
right and left; but it is nearly level at the top before
coming to the further descent. Here will be the place
for fine short turf to be pierced by the bloom of
mountain bulbs, Snowdrops, Spring Snowflakes, and
the like; each kind having its own little region, in-
formally bordered by some group of small bushes.

The third path will be cut through the heart of the
knoll, gently turning, and having steep banks right
and left. In forming such a rock-garden as this the
rock-builder must use all his skill, so that the lines of
the work shall not only be good in themselves, but
shall not jar with anything that comes before or after,
or with any view of the half distance that can be seen
from any portion of the garden scheme.

This scheme of three main pathways supposes a
fair space of ground, such as a third of an acre to
half an acre. If less space has to be dealt with it is
better to have an easy path alone and a sloping bank
on either side, as in the good rock-garden shown in
the illustration at the next page.

When the ground is shaped and the rocks placed,
the next matter of importance, and that will decide
whether the rock-garden is to be a thing of some
dignity or only the usual rather fussy mixture, is to
have a solid planting of suitable small shrubs crown-
ing all the heights. Most important of these will

& B.

LEIN/ IN.

4

TW.

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A WELL-ARRANGED ROCK-GARDEN IN THE FORM OF A LITTLE
VA TERY

THE ROCK-GARDEN 83

be the Alpine Rhododendrons; neat in habit, dark
of foliage, and on a scale that does not overwhelm
the little plant jewels that are to come near them.
No shrubs are so suitable for a good part of the main
plantings in the higher regions. Then there will be
Heaths, among which the white Menzzesta would be
largely used on the cooler exposures, and Pernettyas
in quantity. The pretty and fragrant Ledum palustre
will also be a useful shrub in the backward regions of
the cooler portions, while the neat L. duxifolium, on
the fringes of the solid shrub planting, will lead well to
the smaller plants. Other shrubs that will suit these
upper portions are Czstus laurifolius, Ctstus cyprius,
with Spanish Gorse and various Brooms in the hot-
test places ; Andromedas, Gaultherias, Pernettyas, and
Ledums will come in the cooler spots. In addition
to the Alpine Rhododendrons there will be R. myriz-
folium and several small garden hybrids.

These are all shrubs of dark coloured foliage; by
using them in bold masses they will give the whole
rock-garden that feeling of unity and simplicity
of design that often in such places is so painfully
wanting,

Other small evergreen shrubs, such as Skimmias
and Daphne pontica should also be used rather near
together, but from their brighter and paler colour
preferably in a group by themselves.

By working on such a general plan we shall avoid
that rude shock so often experienced when the rock-
garden comes into view, from its appearance being
so uncompromisingly sudden. Perhaps there is a

84 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

smooth bit of lawn, with pleasant easy lines of flower
or shrub clump; then you pass round some bush,
and all at once there is a shockingly sawdden rock-
garden. I cannot think of any other term that gives
the impression I wish to convey. It often comes of
want of space. Only a certain space can be given
to the rock-plants, and it must be made the most
of; still, even in small gardens it might be more or
less prepared or led up to. But I am not just now
considering the limitations of the smallest gardens
(a tempting theme, but one that should be taken
by itself), but rather the best way to lay out ground
that is not cramped in space or stinted of reasonable
labour. Therefore, where the region of groups of
handsome hardy moisture-loving exotics ends (to
the left of M and-P on the plan), we come to an
occasional flattish boulder or blunt-nosed rock just
rising above the ground, as the path rises very gently.
Presently these large plants, of which the furthest
back were in quite moist ground, are left behind,
and we are among bushes four to seven feet high
(N and above on plan). These give place to lower
shrubs, rather more thinly grouped, while the rocky
boulders are more frequent and more conspicuous.
Presently, and only by a gentle transition, the rock-
mound comes into view, and we see that there are
three paths, each having a slightly different aspect,
while the whole mound, clothed with dark, close-
growing, and for the most part, dwarf shrubs, has
a unity of character which presents no shock to
the mind, but only a pleasant invitation to come

“S@NUHS TIVWS HLIM GANMOND NAdCAIVI-NIOU V

THE ROCK-GARDEN 85

and see and enjoy. There is no bewilderment,
because there is no jumble or crowding of irrelevant
items. Everything falls into its place, and a quiet
progress through any one of the paths presents a
succession of garden-pictures that look not so much
as if they had been designed and made but as if
they had just happened to come so. There is
nothing perhaps to provoke that violent excitement
of wonderment so dear to the uneducated, but there
will be, alike to the plant lover and to the garden
artist, the satisfaction of a piece of happy gardening,
without strain or affectation, beautiful and delightful
in all its parts and growing easily and pleasantly out
of its environment.

The shrubs named as those best fitted for the
upper portions of the rock may well have an occa-
sional exception, for though the masses must be
large enough to give a feeling of dignity, they must
not degenerate into monotony. This can be secured
either by the free growth or rather overgrowth of
some of the shrubs named, such as that of Brooms
and Czstus cyprius or by the use of a shrub of larger
stature, such as Juniper.

Verontca Traversi, as it grows older and assumes a
small tree shape, is one of this class and Cassinea
Julvida is another. Rosemary and Lavender also,
after a few years of rather close and neat growth,
rise and spread and open out, showing trunk-like
stems. This older state, which has a somewhat
unkempt look in the neater parts of the garden, give
these shrubs that rather wilder habit that fits them

86 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

all the better for their place among the boulders of
the rocky heights.

There is also a class of shrub of trailing character
that is most useful for leading from those of stiffer
growth on the higher ground, to the lower regions
where there will be more flowery plants. The low
growing Cotoneasters, Savin, and Muzhlenbeckia, are
some of the best of these, and Heaths of many kinds
from the tall Tree Heath of the Mediterranean to
the low-growing and early-blooming Zyvrica carnea.
Among the different kinds of Heath nothing can
well exceed the usefulness of the white Menztesza,
for it is not only a neat dark green tuft in winter,
but in all the summer months and even into autumn
it bears its large Heath-bells in good quantity.

These dwarf shrubs should be planted so as to
appear to stream out of the dark and solid growths
above, following and accentuating the stratified lines
in which the stones are laid. If they are planted just
above the stones they will fall naturally into their
places.

It will also add greatly to the feeling of general
cohesion which it is so important to obtain in such a
garden, if below these again the same kind of scheme
is carried out in plants that have some kind of solidity
of appearance or persistence throughout the year, such
as Thrift and Asarum,; their long-enduring dark foliage
being highly becoming as a setting to flowers of lively
colour. Ferns also, on the shady side, should be
used in the same way, while on the sunniest exposures
the same idea would be carried out by some of the

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THE ROCK-GARDEN 87

neat whitish or glaucous-leaved plants, Rock Pinks,
Antennaria, Achillea, and so on.

Now and then among the small shrubs, and just
below the larger ones, a single plant of bold aspect
will make a great effect, though the general scheme
of planting should be in easy informal groups or long
drifts. The kind of plant to use in these points of
exceptional isolation is such a one as the best type
of Eryngium alpinum, or one of the more important
Euphorbias, or a tuft of Yucca flaccida.

If the rock-garden is very large, larger than the
one in contemplation, great groups of the nobler
Yuccas are magnificent, but they would be on a scale
rather too large for the present garden.

EVERGREEN SHRUBS FOR THE UPPER PART OF THE
ROCK-GARDEN

Rhododendron ferrugineum. Cotoneaster horizontalis.

R. hirsutum.

R. myrtifolium.
Pernettya, vars.
Abtes clanbraziliana.
A. pumila.
Juniperus Sabina.
Lavender.
Rosemary.

Erica carnea.

E. Tetralix alba.

E. arborea.

E. ciliaris, E. vagans.
E. cineria, vars.
Calluna, vars.
Menziesia polifolia.

Miihlenbeckia complexa.

C. microphylla.
Cassinea fulvida.
Double Gorse.
Gentsta precox.

G. andreana.
Cistus laurifolius.
C. cyprius.

Ruscus racemosus.
Veronica Traverst.
Daphne Mezereum.
D. pontica.

D. Cneorum.

Ulex hispanicus.
Andromeda floribunda.
A. Catesbai.
Zenobia speciosa.

88 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

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THE ROCK-GARDEN

89

SOME OF THE EASIEST GROWN ROCK-GARDEN PLANTS.

Acena microphylla, pulchella.
Achillea umbellata.

Adonis vernalis.

Athionema grandifiorum.
Ajuga, vars.

Alchemillia alpina.

Alyssum saxatile.

Anemone blanda, nemorosa,
vars., sylvestris, apennina.
Anthericum liliastrum, liliago.

Antennaria dioica, tomentosa.

Antirrhinum glutinosum.

Arabis albida.

Arenaria balearica, montana.

Armeria vulgaris, cephalotes.

Artemisia sericea.

Asarum europeum.

Aster alpinus.

Aubrictia delloides, greca.

Campanula pulla, cespitosa,
carpatica, pusilla, barbata.

Cardamine pratense fi. pl., tri-
Solia.

Cerastium tomentosum.

Coptis trifolia.

Chetranthus
shalli,

Corydalis bulbosa, capnoides.

Delphinium nudicaule.

Dentaria diphylla.

Dianthus cesius, deltoides, fra-
grans, and vars.

Draba aizoides.

Lpimedium macranthum.

Erica, vars.

Evrinus alpinus.

alpinus, Mar-

Gentiana acaulis, asclepiadea.

Hlelianthemum, vars.

Hemerocallis Dumortiert.

Hieraceum aurantiacum, villo-
SUM.

Hutchinsia alpina.

lberis sempervirens.

Iris cristata, pumila, vars.

Linaria alpina, pallida, hepati-
cefolia.

Linum flavum,

Lithospermum prostratum.

Lychnis alpina.

Mentha Requzent.

Mimulus cupreus.

Nierembergia rivularts.

Orobus vernus, aurantius.

Papaver alpinum.

Phlox setacea, vars.

Polygala Chamebuxus.

Polygonum affinis, vaccint-
folium.

Potentilla alchemitloides,
dubia.

Primula rosea, denticulata,
stkkimensts.

Sanguinaria canadensis.

Saponaria ocymotdes.

Saxtifraga, Sempervivum, and
Sedum, many sps.

Stlene alpestris.

Thymus lanuginosus,
lum albus.

Tiarella cordifolia.

Uvularia grandiflora.

Vesctcaria utriculata.

Serpyl-

CHAPTER XII
THE ROCK-GARDEN (continued)

IT can never be repeated too often that in this, as in
all kinds of gardening where some kind of beauty is
aimed at, the very best effects are made by the sim-
plest means, and by the use of a few different kinds of
plants only at a time. A confused and crowded com-
position is a fault in any picture; in the pictures that
we paint with living plants just as much as in those
that are drawn and painted on paper or canvas.
Moreover, the jumbled crowd of incongruous items,
placed without thought of their effect on one another,
can only make a piece of chance patchwork; it can
never make a design. However interesting the indi-
vidual plants may be, we want to get good proportion
and beautiful combination in order to make the good
garden-picture, while the individuals themselves gain
in importance by being shown at their best. I have
therefore thought it would be helpful to put together
lists of plants for the different situations, and within
the lists to bracket the names of some that look the
best as near neighbours. In many cases they can be
intergrouped at the edges. These lists appear at the
end of the chapter. Where the same plant is named

more than once, it is to be understood that it is good
go

-GARD"N,

K

ROC

5

TH

AUBRIETIA IN

LITHOSPERMUM PROSTRATUM (BRIGHT BLUE) HANGING OVER
ROCK; A SILVERY SAXIFRAGE BELOW.

THE ROCK-GARDEN gI

to use in more than one combination. A few examples
of such groupings of plants will be described, and
others given in the lists.

When I think of the rock-garden plants, and try to
bring to mind those that have given me most pleasure
for a fair length of time, I think the roll of honour
must begin with Lzthospermum prostratum. ‘There are
many that give one as keen a feeling of delight and
thankfulness for a week or ten days, or even a little
more; but for steady continuance of beautiful bloom
I can think of nothing so full of merit. It is, there-
fore, the best of plants for any important rocky knoll,
and, as its habit is to trail downwards, it may well go
on the very top of some jutting promontory fairly to
the front, or be at the top of a bit of almost wall-like
rock-work as in the picture. It is neat-looking all the
year through, and the deep colour of the small rough
leaves sets off the strong pure blue of the flowers. In
winter the leaves turn to a kind of black bronze, but
never lose their neat appearance, as of a well-fitting
ground carpet. The colour blue in the garden, as also
in other fields of decorative practice, seems to demand
a treatment by contrast as an exception to the generally
desirable rule of treatment by harmony. Therefore I
do not hesitate to plant near the Lzthospermum the
brilliant pale yellow Chetrvanthus alpinus, and, though
I do not find use for many plants with variegated
foliage, I like to have in the same group the pretty
little Avabzes lucida variegata.

Among a host of plants that are of so eminent a
degree of merit that it is almost impossible to give

92 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

precedence to any one, Achillea umbellata takes high
rank, The two illustrations in the chapter on the
Sunny Rock-wall (pp. 6 and 7) show it both in summer
bloom and winter foliage. With this charming thing
I should group some of the plants of low-toned
pink blossom, such as Thrift and the pink-flowered
Cudweed (Axtennaria), and any of the encrusted
Saxifrages; or separately with the charming Phlox
setacea ‘‘ Vivid,” in this case with nothing else then in
bloom quite near.

There are some little plants that grow in sheets,
whose bloom is charming, but on so small a scale
that other flowers of larger size or stouter build would
seem to crush them. Such a one is the dainty little
Linnza, which should have a cool shady region of its
own among tiny Ferns, and nothing large to over-
master it.

The little creeping Lixaria hepaticefolia is another
of this small, dainty class, best accompanied by things
of a like stature, such as Avenaria balearica, and per-
haps little Ferns and Mossy Saxifrages. Avenaria
balearica is a little gem for any cool rocky place; it
grows fast and clings close to the stones. It always
spreads outwardly, seeking fresh pasture; after a time
dying away in the middle. The illustration having
this Avenaria on the angle of a small rock-garden
shows a little dark patch on its surface, first flowerless
and then dying away, while the outer fringe of the
patch grows onward. Aubrietia, Arabis, Tberis, and
Cerastium, four of the commonest of spring-blooming
plants of Alpine origin that have long been grown in

‘NAGUKD-MOOU TIP NS
V NI ¥YxMOTA-OONIND ATANOd ANV (HLV¥d NO CNV

FIONV AHL LY) VOIUVEIVE VIAVNAUXV

LONDON PRIDE (SAXIFRAGA UMBROSUM); TYPE OF ONE
IMPORTANT CLASS OF SAXIFRAGE.

THE ROCK-GARDEN 93

gardens, are capital companions, making sheets of
hanging or trailing bloom at that flowery time when
spring joins hands with summer. The palest coloured
of the Aubrietias are among the best, and should not
be neglected in favour of the stronger purples.

A little later in the year Campanula pulla and Silene
alpestris do well together, plentifully framed with
small Ferns and Mossy Saxifrages. The lovely /rds
cristata is charming with Corydalis capnoides of the
pale yellowish white bloom and bluish almost feathery
leaves.

In the upper and bolder regions of the rock-
garden where there will be small shrubs, the fine
blue-flowered dwarf Flag Iris, /. Cengialti, should
be grouped under a bush of Eurybza gunniana.

London Pride, the best of the Saxifrages of that
class, should be plentifully grouped with strong
patches of the lovely white St. Bruno’s Lily, backed
by some bushes of dark foliage as of Gaultheria
Shallon or Alpine Rhododendron.

It is one of the pleasures of the rock-garden to
observe what plants (blooming at the same time) will
serve to make these pretty mixtures, and to see how
to group and arrange them (always preferably in
long-shaped drifts) in such a way that they will best
display their own and each other’s beauty; so that
a journey through the garden, while it presents
a well-balanced and dignified harmony throughout
its main features and masses, may yet at every
few steps show a succession of charming lesser
pictures.

94 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

It is only possible to point to a few examples, but
those who work carefully in their rock-gardens will
see the great gain that rewards a little care and
thought in putting the right things together. If they
will take the trouble to work out the few examples
given, they will be able to invent many other such
combinations for themselves.

Then there comes the question of putting the right
plants in the right places. The picture of Azdrosace
lanuginosa may be taken as an illustration of a good
rock-plant well placed, partly on the flat, but also
falling down the face of the rock. Nothing but a
knowledge of the plant’s ways and a lively sympathy
with its wants can make right placing a certainty,
but the gradual learning of these things is one of
the pleasures of gardening.

Where the garden adjoins ground of a rocky, or
rocky and woody character, the difficulty of con-
struction is reduced to the lowest point. There are
thousands of acres of such ground in the remoter
parts of our islands, many of them no doubt so placed
that with a very little alteration and the addition of
just the right plants, the most beautiful of rock-
gardens could be made. Such ground as the rocky
wood with its own wild Foxgloves shown in the
illustration could hardly be bettered as a rock-garden
background, and would suggest bold treatment, in-
deed would absolutely forbid anything petty or
niggling.

It is highly interesting to have a space in one of
the warmest and most sheltered regions of the rock-

}

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Si

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NF

NYdCYPI-MIOUY CTIM ¥

(PWILIUVFNM ANATIS) NOIdMVD VAS TTAZNOd

HARDY RED-FLOWERED OPUNTIA (O. XANTHOSTEMA) IN
STEEP ROCK-WORK.

THE ROCK-GARDEN 95

garden for the hardy Opuntias. They are the more
desirable in that they are not only the sole repre-
sentatives of the large Cactus family that are hardy
in England, but that they are also desirable flowering
plants, of large bloom and moderate habit of growth.
The family comprises so many species of monstrously
ungainly or otherwise unsightly form that it is for-
tunate for our gardens that the hardy species should
be beautiful things.

Opuntia Raffinesquit has long been with us, and
more lately we have had the good yellow-bloomed
species O. camanchica, arenaria, fragilis, and Engel-
mannt. To these with yellow flowers have been
added still later O. rhodanthe and O. xanthostema.
They are all North American plants, most of them
natives of Colorado. They like a place among steep
rocks in a soil of poor sand and broken limestone, in
the hottest exposure. The only thing they dislike in
our climate is long-continued rain, from which the
steep rock-wall in a great measure protects them, by
means of the complete drainage that it secures.

We have a fine example of good rock-gardening
accessible to the public in the Royal Gardens, Kew.
Here there is not only a copious collection of moun-
tain plants of the kinds suitable for rock-gardens and
their immediate neighbourhood, but we see them as
well arranged as is possible in an establishment that,
it must be remembered, is primarily botanical ; indeed
the way in which the gardens have been of late years
enriched with large breadths of bulbous plants in

96 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

grass and beautiful flowering shrubs, not in single
specimens only, but in bold groups, has been a power-
ful means of instruction, and has done as much as
anything to help people to know the good plants and
how best to use them.

There is a beautiful rock-garden in the grounds of
Messrs. Backhouse of York, a firm well known for
their admirable collection of Alpine plants. It is most
instructive to see in this fine garden some of the
difficult Alpine plants looking perfectly at home.

The growth of interest in rock-plants has neces-
sarily given an immense impetus to horticultural
trade and allied crafts, for there are other good
firms that make a specialty of constructing rock-
gardens, while the success that is attained may be
seen by the illustrations. Indeed, rock-gardens and
Alpine gardens great and small, carefully made and
intelligently planted, may now be seen throughout the
country.

In planting the rock-garden it is a good plan to
allot fairly long stretches of space to nearly related
and nearly allied plants, especially to those genera
that contain many desirable species and varieties.
Several genera will be largely represented ; of these
the principal are Saxifraga, Sedum, Sempervivum, Cam-
panula, Silene, Linaria, Iberis, Iris, Draba, Dianthus,
and Primula. This way of grouping, if well arranged
with some intergrouping of smaller plants, will not
only have the best effect but will have a distinct
botanical interest ; not botanical in the drier sense of
mere classification, but botanical as a living exposition

IN THE ROCK-GARDEN AT THE ROYAL GARDENS, KEW.

A BANK OF SPRING-FLOWERING ALPINE PLANTS (ARABIS,
AUBRIETIA, ETC.) IN THE BOTANIC GARDEN, BATH

POOL IN THE ROCK-GARDEN OF MESSRS. BACKHOUSE OF YORK.

ee ee ——

MESSRS. BACKHOUSE’S ROCK GARDEN AT YQRK.

THE ROCK-GARDEN

2)

of variation of form within the law of a common

structure.

Besides the grouping in families, the following list
contains, bracketed together, names of plants that
have a good effect when grouped near each other :—

Lithospermum prostratum.
Cheiranthus alpinus.
Arabts lucida variegata.
Achillea umbellata.
Antennaria tomentosa.
Armeria vulgaris.
A. cephalotes.
Saxifraga (encrusted vars.).
Linaria hepaticefolia.
L. pallida.
Small Ferns.
Cardamine pratensis fl. pl.
Arenaria balearica.
Mossy Saxifrage.
Aubrietia graca, &c.
Arabis albida.
Lberis sempervirens.
Cerastium tomentosum.
| lberis correefolia.

Phacelia campanularia(sown).

Mossy Saxifrage.

Cornus canadensts.
Waldsteinea fragariotdes.
Adonis vernalts.

Tulipa sylvestris.

Tunica Saxifraga.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Dianthus deltoides.
Vescicaria utriculata.
Chetranthus mutabilis.

|

(

Silene alpestris.
Campanula pulla.
Saxtfraga umbrosum.
Anthericum liliastrum.
Silene maritima fi. pl.
Othonnopsis chetrifolia.
Tris cristata.

Corydalis capnoides.
Tiarella cordifolia.
Myosotis dissitifiora major.
Mertensia virginica.
Ramondia pyrenaica.
Haberlea rhodopensis.
Cystopteris fragilis.
Dianthus alpinus.
Cardamine trifoliata.
Hutchinsia alpina.
Achillea Clavenne.
Scabiosa Pterocephala.
Anemone blanda.
Galanthus Elwes.

Tris reticulata.

Mossy Saxifrage.
Orobus vernus.
Aubrietia greca.
Veronica satureifolia.
Stlene alpestris.
Anemone apennina.
Trillium grandifiorum.
Omphalodes verna.

98 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

SOME BULBOUS PLANTS FOR THE ROCK-GARDEN

Acts autumnalis.
Triteleia unifiora.
Crocus species.
Narcissus minor.
LV. minimus.

N. Bulbocodium

NV. B. citrinus.

NV. juncifolius.

LV. odorus minor.
LV. poeticus verbanus.
LV. triandrus.
Leucojum vernum.
Galanthus Elwesiz.
Fritillaria armena.
F. aurea.

F, pudica.

F.. Meleagris.
Oxalis enneaphylla.

Cyclamen Atkinsii and vars.

C. Coum.

C. repandum.

C. europeum.
Anomantheca cruenta.
Chionodoxa Lucilie.
C. sardenstis.
Dodecatheon, vars.
Puschkinia libanotica.
Corydalis bulbosa.

C. bracteata.
Sternbergia lutea.
Tecophile@a cyanocrocus.
Eucomis punctata.

Scilla sibirica,

S. ttalica alba.

S. bifolia and vars.

Muscari botryoides and white
var.

M. azureum.

Tulipa Gretgi.

T. persica.

T. kaufmanniana.

T. sylvestris.

Tris reticulata.

I. reticulata Krelagei.

I. Danfordia.

1. bakeriana.

I. balkana.

I. Cengialtz.

I, olbiensts.

/. pumila and vars.

I. Chame@iris.

I. tolmeana.

Lilium croceum.

L. longifilorum.

L. Browni.

L. Kramer.

L. elegans and vars.

L. tenuifolium.

Erythronium Dens-canis, vars.

E. giganteum.

£. grandifilorum.

E. Hartwegi.

Trillium grandiflorum.

T. sessile.

DWARF SHRUBS AND HALF-SHRUBBY PLANTS AND OTHERS OF
RATHER SOLID HABIT FOR THE USE ADVISED AT P. 86

Polygala chamebuxus.
Polygonum vaccinifolium.
Dryas octopetala.

Cornus canadensis.
Tiarella cordifolia.
Asarum europeum.

(‘aus ay] op pj1m aSvxo0f aamung asayor yom v fo qoof ay3 4v Ao ‘Aamuns
ur Cp sjoos ayy doay of way anoqv paanpd aq un9 au04s V aAaym YOOU YI0A V U2 aQ PINOYS ‘azIS vAnqvU spAryg-om_f)

(SATTIAHAONOW WNIGODOETN| ‘N) SASSIOUVN LVOOILLAd-dOOH ALIHM

SHIVUTIXVS AUAZATIS YATIVWS AHL AO AdAL

THE

Salix reticulata.
Andromeda tetragona.

Gaultheria procumbens.

Lberis sempervirens.

I. correefolia.
Menztesia polifolia.
Megasea, smaller vars.

ROCK-GARDEN 99

Armeria vulgaris.

A. cephalotes.

Genista sagegttalis.

Daphne blagayana.

D. cneorum.

Spiraea decumbens.

Erica carnea, and other Heaths.

CHAPTER XIII
THE ALPINE GARDEN

THIS chapter is for the most part a résumé of the
teaching conveyed in some highly interesting and
instructive letters to Zhe Garden from Mr. Henry
Correvon of the Jardin Alpin d’Acclimatation at
Geneva. No one is more intimately acquainted with
the flora of the Alps than Mr. Correvon, or is better
able to instruct and advise upon their use and adapta-
tion to our gardens.

In making an Alpine garden, and considering what
plants are to adorn it, it must be remembered that in
the mountains of Europe there are whole chains that
are of limestone and others that are entirely of granite.
Many of the failures in our rock and Alpine gardens
are due to this fact either being unknown or dis-
regarded. Each of those two great main geological
formations has a flora proper to itself. It stands to
reason, therefore, that if we plant a shrub or herb that
belongs to the granite on a calcareous soil, or a lime-
stone plant on granite, that we are only inviting
failure.

It is true that there are a good many Alpine plants
that will grow in almost any soil, and a number of

100

(duo) saysur gt samopg ‘Leg aisoddo aS) *SFOPUAIXKS
G4LSQYONA YO AUFATIS AHL JO CAYAMOTA LSADUVT AHL “ VITOJIDNOT VOVUAIXVS

(-az1s poangou P4iyi-au0) “KF NVINASUAT VIVUAIXVS

THE ALPINE GARDEN IOI

others that are fairly well content with one that is not
their own, but there are a certain number that are not
so tolerant, and if we would do the very best we can
for the lovely plants of the mountain regions they
should be given the kind of soil and rock that suits
them best.

From its very beginning then, if an Alpine garden
is to be made in a calcareous soil let it be planted
with the lime-loving plants and those that are tolerant
in the matter of soil, but not with those that demand
granite. Hitherto the mistakes of amateurs may have
been excused, because in the books and plant lists
that have till now been available the great importance
of this has not been clearly and concisely put before
them.

If the Alpine garden is to accommodate a larger
range of plants than those proper to the one soil, or
if preparation from the first has to be made for plants
of these two geological divisions, it is well that one
distinct portion of the garden should be prepared
with limestone and the other with granite. In this
way it will not only be easier to work the garden and
to know the destination of any newcomer, but the
plants themselves will be in better harmony. I would
earnestly counsel intending planters, if they have to
do with a small space only, to be content with plants
of the one or the other class of soil, because, as in
all other kinds of gardening, the mere dotting of
one plant, or of two or three only of a kind, will
never make a beautiful garden, but at the best can

102 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

only show a kind of living herbarium. Single
examples of these lovely little children of the great
mountains may be delightful things to have, and in
the very smallest spaces no doubt will be all that is
possible ; but we wish to consider gardening in its
nobler aspects, not merely the successful cultivation
of single specimens of the Alpine flora.

In planning an important Alpine garden it should
be remembered that in preparing homes for some of
the best of these lovely plants, not only the rocky
places must be considered, but the grassy ones as
well, for the pasture land of the Alps is as bright with
flowers as the more rocky portions. It is here that
are found the Snowflakes and the Snowdrops, the
Dog’s-tooth Violets and the Anemones of the Pulsatilla
group. Here also are the glorious Gentiana acaulis,
the bright gem-like G. verna, and in boggy places
G. bavarica, near in size to G. verna, and sometimes
mistaken for it, but different in the shape and
arrangement of its more crowded leaves, and in the
still more penetrating brilliancy of its astounding blue.
These little gems are not often seen at their best in
English gardens, but G. acau/is is a much more willing
colonist, and in some gardens where the soil is a rich
loam it grows rapidly and flowers abundantly and
proves one of the best of plants for a garden edging.
Though properly a plant of the pastures, the illustra-
tion shows how kindly it takes to the rock-garden
in England.

The difficulty of imitating the close short turf of

"NAGYVI-MIOUY HSITONA N¥ NI (SITAVOV VNVILINAD) VTIANFILNAD

DHE ALPINE GARDEN 103

the upland Alpine pasture is that here the grasses
grow too rank and tall; the only ones therefore
that should be employed are the smallest of the wiry-
leaved kinds, such as the short Sheep’s Fescue with
the tufted base.

A true Alpine garden, it should be understood, is
a place where plants native to the Alps alone are
grown. It should not be confused with a general
rock-garden where we have mountain and other
plants from the whole temperate world.

Besides those that one generally classes as plants,
meaning flowering plants, there will be many of the
beautiful small Ferns of the Alps to |be considered,
and the small shrubs whose presence is so important
in the more prominent eminences of our rock-gardens
and the tops of our rock-walls. Of the latter, in the
true Alpine garden, the most important are the dwarf
Rhododendrons, and nothing could be so fitting a
groundwork or setting for the little bright-blossomed
jewels that will be their companions. Especially in
the mass and when out of flower, their compact form
and dark rich colouring are extremely helpful in
securing a feeling of repose in the composition of the
main blocks of the rocky region, while their beautiful
bloom makes them, when in flower, some of the
loveliest of dwarf shrubs.

Here again it must be noticed that care must be
taken to suit each kind with its geological require-
ment. The genus Rhododendron is represented by
three species in the Alps; in those of Switzerland

1o44 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

by R. ferruginium and R. hirsutum, and in those of
the Tyrol by R&. Chamecistus. Still further east, in
the Eastern Carpathians, is found R. myrttfolium. It
is with the two Swiss kinds that our rock-gardens are
mostly concerned, though R. myrtifolium is also of
value, and will grow in many soils, though it prefers
sandy peat. Of these Swiss kinds #. ferruginium is a
plant of the granite, while Azrvswtum belongs to the
limestone, as does also the R. Chamecistus of the Tyrol.

Subjoined are lists of plants proper to the two
main geological divisions. It will be seen that in
each genus the species seem to be nearly equally
divided, so that in a garden devoted to one or other
there would be no exclusion of any of the more
important kinds of plants. Those that will do well
in either soil are not included in the list. If in the
case of some plants proper to the one formation we
find in England that they caz be grown in the other,
it will not affect the general utility of these lists, which
are meant to point out the conditions under which
only they are found in nature, and under which they
thrive best in gardens. It must also be understood
that the lists do not aim at being complete. They
comprise only the most characteristic examples of the
species special in nature to the limestone and the
granite, and that have been tried and proved either
in the Jardin d’Acclimatation at Geneva, or at one of
the two experimental stations in the mountains that are
on the limestone and on the granite respectively.

It must also be understood that a good number of

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; ni
Heat:

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THE ALPINE GARDEN 105

the Alpine plants that we are familiar with, that are
tolerant of a variety of soils, and that are so well
represented in the best trade lists, do not appear
here; so that if it is not convenient to supply any
plants with either granite or limestone, those named
in the following lists may either be avoided, or we
may be content with what success we may have in
such a soil as we are able to give them.

There are certain plants of the higher Alpine regions
that are usually failures in English rock-gardens, of
which Eritrichium nanum may be taken as a type.
Others in the same list of what we know as difficult
plants are: Androsace glacialis, Charpentieri, helvetica,
pubescens, wulfeniana, and imbricata; Achillea nana,
Thlaspi rotundifolium, Artemisia spicata ; Campanula
cenista, Allioniz, excisa, petrea; Saxifraga Seguieri
planifolia, and stenopetala.

In order to succeed with these plants they must
have the poorest possible soil; only a coarse gravel
of small stones with a little sandy peat; such a soil
as will always be poor, light, and porous ; in one con-
taining more nutriment they simply die of indigestion.
The drainage must be perfect. They delight in full
exposure and sun heat, and will succeed either in a
wall or the flatter rock-garden, though here they are
much benefited by the ground around them being
covered with little stones in order to keep it cool.

The following is a list of plants proper to the cal-
careous and granitic formations respectively :—

1066 WALL AND

CALCAREOUS

Achillea atrata.
Aconitum Anthora.
Adenostylis alpina.
Androsace chamajasme.
Fe arachnoidea.
Pe helvetica.
s pubescens.
1 uillosa.
Anemone alpina.

3 narcisstfiora.

7 Pulsatilla.

- flepatica.
Anthyllis montana.
Artemisia mutellina.
Braya alpina.
Campanula thyrsoidea.

. cenista.
Cephalaria alpina.
Cyclamen europeum.
Daphne alpina.

5 Cneorum.
Dianthus alpinus.
Draba tomentosa.
Erica carnea.
Eryngium alpinum.
Erinus alpinus.
Gentiana alpina.

49 angustifolia.
is Clusit.

5x ciliata.

as asclepiadea.

Geranium aconitifolium.
Globularias.

Guaphalium Leontopodium.
Gypsophila repens.

Lychnis Flos-jovis.
Moehringia muscosa.

WATER GARDENS

GRANITIC

Achillea moschata.
Aconitum septentrionale.

Adenostylis albifrons.
Androsace carnea.
5 lactea.
is glacialts.
ie imbricata.
ne vitaliana.
Anemone sulphurea.
- baldensis.
os montana.
3 vernalts.

Arnica montana.
Artemisia glacialis.
Astrantia minor.
Azalea procumbens.
Braya pinnatifida.
Campanula spicata.
as excisa.
Daphne petrea.

» striata.
Dianthus glactalis.
Draba frigtda.
Ephedra helvetica.
Eritrichium nanum.
Gentiana brachyphylla.

5 Kochiana.

9° | yreetda:.

3 Pneumonanthe.

» pyrenaica.
Geranium argenteum.
Gnaphalium supinum.
Linnea borealis.
Lychnis alpina.
Meum athamanticum,
Oxytropis campestris.
Papaver rheticum.

N@GCYVI-MIOX
FHL NI dO¥dS LF TH ¥Y NO ‘SNAFTASNOH FAMAOO AHL AO AdAL “IYADOKT WNAIAYAACNAS

THE ALPINE GARDEN 107

CALCAREOUS

Oxytropis montana.
Papaver alpinum.
Primula Auricula.

“ clusiana.
“ integrifolia.
5 minima.

3 Spectabilis.
Ranunculus alpestris.

+ Seguiert.
Rhododendron hirsutum.
Ribes petreum.
Saussurea discolor.
Saxifraga longifolia.

> C@SIA.

‘3 diapensiotdes.
5 burseriana.

5 zombeanensis.
% SQUAYVOSa.

3 media.

; aretioides.

Senecio abrotanifolius.
» aurantiacus.

Sempervivum dolomiticum.

x hirtum.
Neilreichit.
i Pittont.

=) tectorum.

Stlene acaulis.

5, alpestris.

» L£lizabethe.

» vallesia.
Valeriana saxatilis.
Viola cenisia.

GRANITIC

Phyteuma hemisphericum.

» paucifiorum.
Primula hirsuta.

» glutinosa.

» wulfeniana.

» Hacchinis.

» ‘longifiora.
Ranunculus crenatus.

A glacialis.
Rhododendron ferrugineum.
Ribes alpinum.

Saussurea alpina.
Saxtfraga Cotyledon.

+3 Hiirculus.
Ns Seguiert.
53 moschata.
os aspera.

A bryotdes.
= ajugefolia.
“ exarata,
» retusa.
Senecto uniflorus.
» carniolicus.
Sempervivum arachnoideum.

5 acuminatum.
Sp debile.

s Gaudint.

xs Wulfent.

Silene exscapa.
» rvupestris.
» pumilio.
» guadrifida.
Vaccinium uliginosum.
= oxycoccus.
Valeriana celtica.
- Saliunca.
Veronica fruticulosa.
Viola comollia.

108 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

FERNS
Cystopteris alpina. Woodsia hyperborea.

- montana. 59 REISE:
Aspidium Lonchitis. Blechnum spicant.
Asplenium Selovt. Allosorus crispus.

- fontanum. Asplenium germanicum.

viride. ‘5 septentrionale.

”

‘4adOHS ANWVT PV NO UId HOLOOS

CHAPTER XIV
LAKES AND LARGE PONDS

EXCEPT in the case of Water-Lilies I have often noticed
that the smaller the pool or pond in which orna-
mental water-plants are grown the better one is able
to enjoy them. In the large pond, and still more in
the lake whose length is measured by miles, the scale
of the water surface is so large, and the visible extent
of land and water so wide, that one does not feel
the want of the small water-plants nearly so much
as one desires a bold treatment of tree and bush, and
such fine things as will make handsome groups upon
the shore and masses in the middle and further dis-
tance. If I had a large space of water, with land
more or less bare and featureless sloping to it, I
should begin by planting a good extent of the coolest
and dampest slope with Spruce Fir, bringing some
of the trees right down to the water’s edge.

The Spruce would be planted as far apart as they
were to stand when full grown, but more thinly to
the water’s edge, so that here, as they grew, they
could be thinned by degrees till they stood in good
groups. Birches would also be planted near the
water, and would show as graceful silver-stemmed
trees standing reflected in the lake and backed by a

109

110 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

dense forest of Spruce. Scotch Fir is also beautiful
near water, especially in hilly ground, and it might
be better to plant Scotch than Spruce if the land was
very poor and sandy. But Spruce is essentially a
damp-loving Conifer, and nothing gives a more
solemn dignity to a water landscape than a large
extent of its sombre richness of deep colouring, espe-
cially when this is accentuated by the contrast of
the silver Birches.

If the soil is strong or of a rich alluvial nature
Alders will grow to a large size, forming great rounded
masses. But some smaller matters will also be wanted
to give interest to the lake shore, so that here will
be clumps of the Royal Fern (Osmunda), and the
graceful Lady Fern, and where the path passes there
should be clumps of Water Elder (Viburnum Opulus)
giving its pretty white bloom in early summer and
its heavy-hanging bunches of shining half-transparent
berries in the autumn months, when the leaves also
turn of a fine crimson colour.

The sunny bank of the lake I should keep rather
open and grassy, with only occasional brakes of bushy
growth of Thorn and Holly, wild Rose and Honey-
suckle, with woodland planting of Oak and Hazel,
Thorn, Holly, and Birch beyond.

If the lake or large pond is in flat low-lying country
the large growing Poplars and Willows named
in the next chapter will suit its banks or near
neighbourhood.

ROYAL FERN (OSMUNDA) BY THE WATER-SIDE.

CHAPTER XV
SMALL PONDS AND POOLS

IT is probably in the smaller ponds and pools, or in
river banks and back-waters, that most pleasure in
true water-gardening may be had.

Every one who has known the Thames from the
intimate point of view of the leisured nature-lover in
boat or canoe, must have been struck by the eminent
beauty of the native water-side plants; indeed our
water-gardens would be much impoverished if we
were debarred from using some of these. Many of
them are among the most pictorial of plants. There
is nothing of the same kind of form or carriage among
exotics that can take the place of the Great Water-
Dock (Rumex Hydrolapathum), with its six feet of
height and its large long leaves that assume a gor-
geous autumn colouring. Then for importance as
well as refinement nothing can be better than the
Great Water Plantain, with leaves not unlike those of
the Funkza but rather longer in shape. Then there
is the Great Reed (Phragmites) and the Reedmace
that we call Bulrush (7yf/a), and the true Bulrush
(Scirpus) that gives the rushes for rush-bottomed
chairs—all handsome things in the water close to the
bank.

1It

112 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Flowering Rush (Sutomus) makes one think that
here is some tropical beauty escaped from a hot-house,
so striking is its umbel of rosy bloom carried on the
tall, round, dark-green stem. It has the appearance
of a plant more fitted to accompany the Papyrus and
blue Water-Lily of ancient Egypt than to be found
at home in an English river. This charming plant
would look well near Lguztsetum Telmateta, which
would grow close down to the water’s edge.

The yellow Iris of our river banks is also an in-
dispensable plant for the water-garden, and will do
equally well just in the water or just out of it. Not
unlike its foliage is that of the Sweet Sedge (Acorus
Calamus), fairly frequent by the river bank. I have
driven my boat’s nose into a clump of it when about
to land on the river bank, becoming aware of its
presence by the sweet scent of the bruised leaves.

The branched Bur-reed (Sparganium ramosum) has
somewhat the same use as the Sweet Sedge in the
water-garden, making handsome growths of pale-
green luscious-looking foliage, and spikes of bloom
that are conspicuous for the class of plant; it is re-
lated to the Chair-Rush (Sczvpus). It grows in very
shallow water and in watery mud. The Cyperus
Sedge (Carex pseudo-Cyperus) is also handsome for
much the same use.

Of the floating river flowers the earliest to bloom
is the large Water Buttercup (Ranunculus floribundus) ;
its large quantity of white bloom is very striking.
Where this capital plant has been established there
might be a good planting of Marsh Marigold near it

SdIVHD DNINOLLIOG XOX GCHSN ST LIVAL
HSNUYTNG ANAL AHL ‘SIUISNOVT SAdYIOS JO NNVA V SI CNOA
NOGNOT LQNO@F SUALVYM NI NOWWOO ‘SITILVQNOV ‘Y AO WHO UADUVT AHL
(NOLDNIGVA@ AO) SQAGNNGIXOTA SQTNONONVY SI GNQOUDAUNOA AHL NI ‘ADGH-UAAIL

SMALL PONDS AND POOLS 113

on the actual pond edge. The two look very well
together, and all the better with a good stretch of the
dark Chair-Rush behind them. One point of botani-
cal interest in the Water Buttercup is its two distinct
sets of leaves; those under water divided into many
hair-like segments, while those that float are flatter
and wider. It has been noticed that when the plant
grows in swiftly running water, which would tend to
submerge the upper leaves, they disappear, and the
finely divided ones only remain.

The charming V7llarsta nympheordes, with fringed
yellow bloom, though not a common plant, may be
found here and there on the Thames, sometimes in
large quantities. It grows in water three to four feet
deep or even more; its small, thick, rounded leaves
looking like those of a tiny Water-Lily. Each neat
little plant is anchored by a strong round flexible
stem to the root in the mud. It is well worthy of a
place in the water-garden. I used to get the plants
up by dragging the bottom with a long-handled rake,
and transferred them to the pond of more than one
friend. If a place is chosen a little shallower than
their original home and a stone tied to each root,
they will soon establish themselves and make a good
patch the next year. It likes still but not stagnant
water.

The Arrow-Head (Sagitiaria) is another handsome
native thing that likes a place near the pond or river
edge. There are other and still better species, one
American and one Chinese, and a good double-

flowered variety.
H

114. WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Frog-bit is another pretty floating plant, with heart-
shaped leaves and habit of growth not unlike V7/arsia.

The Water Soldier (Szvatcotes) is a curious thing
and handsome in its way. The whole plant is not
unlike the bunch of spiny-edged foliage in the top
of a Pine Apple, but of a dark bottle-green colour
and a foot long. It grows at the bottom, rising only
to flower and then sinks again. It is more a curiosity
than a militant water-garden ornament, but it certainly
gives interest to a watery region to know that this
strange thing is there and that with luck one may be
on the spot to see it flower.

The Butter-bur (Pezasites), with its large leaves a
foot or more across, makes a great effect as a foliage
plant on the pond edge, or where a space of very
shallow slope comes down to the water.

The Buckbean (enyanthes) is one of the prettiest
of English flowers. Its home is the muddy edge of
river or pond or very wet bog; it does not need run-
ning water. The leaves are rather like three leaves
of Broad Bean, joined into a large trefoil; they stand
up out of the water. The flowers, which also stand
well up, are a spike of pretty pink bloom; the whole
blossom is delicately veined by a fringing of white hairs.
It is a plant of the Gentian tribe, as is also the Vz//arsza.

The Summer Snowflake (Leucojum @stivum) is beauti-
ful beside the pond or pool; in strong alluvial soil
growing to a surprising size. It is one of the best of
plants for growing in quantity in tufts like Daffodils ;
indeed in meadow land by stream or pond the two
plants would meet and amalgamate happily, the

‘GNOATA (SAdUIOS) HSAUN-UIFHO ‘LNOYT NI (SHHINVANYM) N¥XI-NONG

DIM FED RNS | aoe
2h eit Ve eee

‘NAdCUVD S\NOSTIM ‘YW NI ‘VLIVOINVW PHANNAD

Se ip

SMALE PONDS ANDY POOLS 115

damper places of the Daffodils agreeing with the
drier of the Snowflake. Here again the addition of
groups of Marsh Marigold would come very well.

There are still three important wild river-side plants
that are worthy ornaments of the water edge. The
Yellow Loosestrife (Lys¢machia) and the purple Loose-
strife (Lythrum); both are excellent things to use in
large masses at the edge of pond or pool. Of the
Lythrum there is an improved kind with still brighter
flowers than the type. Here is also the Tansy, a
plant that makes a considerable show with its large
level-topped corymbs of hard yellow flower. It is a
plant that will grow anywhere, but is especially luxu-
riant near water.

The Water-Violet (Hottonza palustris), in the fore-
ground of the picture at page 119, is another pretty
native that must have a place in the water-garden. It
should be somewhere near the path in rather shallow
still water, so that the tufts of submerged leaves can
be seen as well as the flower-spikes.

So far no plant has been named that is not wild in
_ England, and yet here already is a goodly company ;
indeed the foreign plants for the water-garden are
not so very many in number though they are ex-
tremely important.

The two great Gunneras, herbaceous plants with
enormous radical leaves, something like the leaves of
Heracleum six times magnified, are noble plants for the
water’s edge. The illustration shows Gunnera manicata
at Mr. Wilson’s garden at Wisley, well placed on the

116 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

further side of a small pond. No plant can be more
important in the water-garden ; but its scale is so large
and its whole appearance so surprising that it is well
to let it have a good space to itself. The Gunneras
are natives of the cooler mountain regions of the north
of South America, but have proved hardy in England
in all but the most trying climates. They are splendid
in Cornwall and the south-west of Ireland.

A most important water-side plant is from Japan,
the beautiful /r7s devigata. It rejoices in rich moist
soil close to the edge of the water.

Another water-loving Iris of the easiest culture,
liking a damp place by the water, is /. szdivica, with
its larger variety orzentalis. If the two are planted
together and young ones are grown from seed, which
is borne freely and easily germinates, a whole range
of beautiful forms will ensue. There are already
several colourings of /. szdzrvzca, the white being of
special beauty, but all are good flowers, with their
thick tuft of leaves gracefully bending over and their
daintily veined flowers borne on perfectly upright
stems. This Iris has the hollow reed-like stem that
proclaims it a water-loving plant.

The Cape has sent us a delightful water-plant in
Aponogeton distachyon, very easily grown in a shallow
pond or tank. It has neat oval floating leaves and
curious whitish flowers that fork into two flowery
prongs; they have a white alabaster-like appearance
and a scent like Hawthorn.

From North America comes one of the very best
water-plants, Pondeteria cordata, beautiful alike in its

NYMPH4:A ODORATA, WITH BUCKBEAN (MENYANTHES) AND
YELLOW LOOSESTRIFE (LYSIMACHIA) AT THE
POND MARGIN.

“AdIS-UALIVM YHL AT SNOXYANAGCOGOHY

SMALL PONDS AND POOLS 117

bold leaf and blue bloom. It flourishes in rather
shallow water and is quite easy to grow. The upright
habit of growth of its leafy flower-stems is unusual
among aquatic plants.

The Thalictrums should not be forgotten; they are
suited for much the same kind of massing on land at
the water edge as the Loosestrifes. 7. flavum, the
cultivated and improved form of a native plant, being
the finest.

The large white Daisy, Lewcanthemum lacustre, though
truly a plant for wet ground and water edge, I always
think has a flower-garden look about it that seems to
make it less fit for water-gardening, where one wishes
to preserve the sentiment of the more typical water-side
and truly aquatic vegetation.

It would be well that a good planting of Rhodo-
dendrons should, at one of its ends or sides, come
against a pond, though these shrubs are too large in
size and too overwhelming in their mass of bloom to
combine with smaller plants. But in connection with
a pond of Water-Lilies, the dark foliage of Rhodo-
dendrons, coming down to one shore and backed by
the deep shade of further trees, preferably Spruce for
the sake of their deep quiet colouring, would be a
noble background for the white and tender tints of
the Nymphzeas; and as the Rhododendrons would
have done flowering before the main blooming season
of the Water-Lilies, the two sources of interest would
not clash. This would be much to the advantage of
both, while each would be suited with a place both
fitting in appearance and suited to its needs.

118 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

I venture to entreat those who are about to plant
Rhododendrons in watery places not to plant them,
as has been done so often, on a small round island.
I lived for twenty years in a pretty place of some
fifty acres where there were three streams and two
good-sized ponds. In one of the ponds were three
islands, two of them of fair size and closely wooded
with Alders and large Grey Poplars and smaller under-
wood, but the third and smallest was the worst form
of small round pudding of Rhododendrons, about
thirty feet across. When ponds are being artificially
made it is tempting to leave islands, and if well
arranged and planted they may be beautiful, although,
in nearly all cases, except where there is unlimited
space, a promontory is more pictorial, and favours in
a greater degree the sense of mystery as to the extent
of the water and the direction of the unseen shore.

If there is or must be a small island it is far better
to plant it with an Alder and a group of Silver Birch.
The rounded forms of the Rhododendrons add pain-
fully to the rounded dumpiness of the little island.
It is better to group them on the shore and to plant
the island with something of upright form that will
give beautiful reflection in the water, or to let it be
covered with non-woody vegetation.

The common Rhododendron ponticum, with one or
two of bold growth that have white flowers, such
as “Minnie,” and some of the tall, free lilac-whites
such as Album grandiflorum and Album elegans, will
make the best possible combination. If with these
there are some groups of Silver Birch, and the

arcs ok = a2
ee eles pant ee:
cal eee ‘é ~ .

i

ns Se ae

STREAM-SIDE, WATER-VIOLET (HOTTONIA)
IN THE FOREGROUND.

POPLARS BY THE

SMALL PONDS AND POOLS 119

whole shows against a background of Spruce Fir,
it will probably be as noble a use of these grand
flowers as could be combined in a half wild place.

Here, even more than in a garden, where also it
is often seen and always to be regretted, an uncon-
sidered mixture of the various colours of the many
Rhododendron hybrids should be carefully avoided ;
moreover, the foliage in individuals differs so much
in character, that in grouping kinds together this
should be considered as well as the colour of the
bloom. There is perfect safety in the group as ad-
vised above, its constituents all having the handsome
dark-green long-shaped leaves that is so good an
attribute of R. ponticum and its nearest relations.

The ponderous masses of Rhododendrons near
water are much improved by good groupings of
Silver Birches, an association always to be advised ;
indeed a shallow valley of rather damp peaty soil
leading to water, where the wild Birches are thor-
oughly at home, is the very place for Rhododendrons.
When both come down to the water’s edge, and the
dark evergreen masses with the graceful silver-backed
stems are reflected in the still water, it shows about
as good a picture of wild gardening with shrub and
tree as may well be, and one that is scarcely less
beautiful in winter than it is in summer.

Of other trees and bushes of the water-side, Willows
and Poplars are the most important. The White
Willow (Salix alba) becomes a good-sized tree. There
are occasionally places where the Weeping Willow
can be planted with good effect, perhaps for pre-

1200 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

ference at the edge of small pools. But much more
generally useful are the Willows or Osiers with
highly-coloured bark, especially the Cardinal and the
Golden Osiers. In winter they quite light up the
water-side landscape with their cheerful colouring,
which is all the more brilliant if they are cut down
every year; the young rods bearing the brighter
bark. Nearly as bright in winter is the Red Dog-
wood, also willing to grow near water.

The Poplars are the largest of the deciduous trees
for the river or pond: side or anywhere in damp
ground. Grand great trees they are—the White, the
Grey, the Black and also the Aspen Poplar; but
grandest of all and the most pictorial is the tall
upright Lombardy Poplar.

Sometimes nearly a straight line of these tall trees
will occur near a river, and often have they been so
planted with the very best effect; the strangely clear
contrasting line of straight tall tree and level water
being acutely accentuated when the one is reflected
in the other.

As mentioned in the last chapter the Spruce and
its varieties are damp-loving things. The handsome
American Hemlock Spruce is one of the finest, and
a grand tree for the water-side or for any damp
ground.

Quinces also love a damp place, and as true water-
side bushes are not many in number they should be
more freely planted, for not only do they give a har-
vest of excellent fruit, but they are beautiful bushes
or small trees. Moreover, they are good at all times

ROCKY STREAM-GARDEN AND LILY-POOL, BY MESSRS. VEITCH,
OF EXETER

‘YUALAXA AO “HOLIFA ‘SUSSHW XI CALINV Id GNV GCHNDISAC ‘TOOd NATYVD- YOON

SMALL PONDS AND POOLS 121

of the year—in flower, in fruit, and when the leaves
are gone, for then the remarkable grace of the
little tree can best be seen. For this use the old
English Quince, with the smooth roundish fruits, is
by far the best, the varieties that bear the largest
pear-shaped fruit being not nearly so graceful in
habit.

The native Water Elder (Vzburnum Opulus) is a
grand bush or small tree, and should be largely
planted by the water-side. Where garden meets
water, is one of the many and one of the best of
places for its derivative, the Guelder Rose. Among
foreign hardy bushes one above all is precious for
the water-side, the Snowdrop Tree (Halesia tetraptera)
from North America. I have grown it both as bush
and tree; and in every shape, and for all garden uses,
have found it one of the very best of deciduous
flowering shrubs.

The pond water-garden naturally leads to the bog-
garden; indeed the tendency of the valley pond to
silt up at its upper end, where the stream that feeds it
lets fall the lighter particles it has held suspended and
leaves the heavier ones that it has driven along its bed,
points to this region of boggy deposit, narrowing to
the true stream, as the proper place to grow many
bog-plants.

Here, in the case of many swamp-loving things, will
be found ready made, quite as good if not better places
than could possibly be prepared for them, while other
spaces within the moist influence of the region can
easily be adapted for others that we may wish to grow.

122 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Moreover, in the naturally silted bog there will pro-
bably be already that handsome groundwork of great
tussocks of Sedge or stretches of Reed or Rush that
will secure that valuable sense of unity and cohesion
of the whole place, while at the same time they will
make a distinct and easy separation between any such
group of flowering plants as one may wish to see
undisturbed by the view of the group that is next to
follow.

It will be greatly to the advantage of a portion of
this region if there is a copse-like growth of something
that will give summer shade; for many are the lovely
plants that are not exactly marsh plants, but that like
ground that is always cool and rather moist. In the
wettest of this would be a plantation of Przmula den-
ticulata, a grand plant indeed when grown in long
stretches in damp ground at the edge of a hazel copse,
when its luscious leaves and round heads of lilac
flower are seen quite at their best. Several others of
the Asiatic Primroses like such a place better than any
other. Next to it, and only divided by some clumps of
Lady Fern, would be the equally wet-loving P. szk-
kimensis, and then a further drift of P. zaponzca.

The two latter kinds come easily from seed; P.
denticulata increases so fast and divides so well that
there is no need to grow it from seed. The type
colour of P. japonica, a crimson inclining to magnate,
is unpleasant to my eye and to that of many others,
but seedlings of a much better, though quite as bright
a colour, have been obtained, and also a pretty low-
toned white, with many intermediate pinkish shade.

(‘asp yxau 99S) ‘“SHITIT-UALVM ANF SDOVTHA GTIM HIiM LVYOW ATLSVO V

SMALL PONDS;AND,POOLS, 123

The soft lemon colour of the hanging bells of P. szk-
kimensts makes it one of the prettiest of woodland
plants.

Two beautiful Indian Primroses of a smaller size
that also like a damp place, though less shade, are
P. rosea and P. tnvolucrata Monroi; the latter seldom
seen in gardens, though it is one of the most charming
of hardy Primulas. These two gems, and our native
tiny P. farinosa, should be close to the path in moist,
‘mossy, peaty ground. Also near the path should be a
good planting of the brilliant Mzmulus cupreus, well
known but much neglected ; in appearance it would
suit the neighbourhood of the Bog Asphodel, the latter
in a rather moister hollow with Sphagnum.

In the same cool and rather damp copse-edge the
Alpine Willow-leaved Gentian (G. asclepiadea) will be
glad of a place, and also the North American G.
Andrewsiz that flowers in October, and in the cool
leafy mould of the copse the Canadian Bloodroot
(Sanguinaria), Trilliums, and the fine Californian
Erythronium (£. giganteum), should be in some
quantity ; for though they are also delightful plants
to have even in a moderate patch, yet their true use is
to be in such generous masses that they form distinct
features in the woodland landscape. In this way of
bold planting, no one who has seen them disposed in
long-shaped rather parallel drifts, having some relation
either to the trend of the ground, or the direction of
the woodland path, or the disposal of the masses of
tree or undergrowth, or some such guiding impulse,
will ever be content with a less careful mode of plant-

i124, WALL ‘AND WATER GARDENS

ing. This applies equally to Daffodils, whose place
will also be here as well as in other woody spaces. It
is of less importance with the wood plants whose
flowers are less showy, such as Lily of the Valley and
Smilacina, though even with these some consideration
of the form of the ground in relation to the shape of
their masses will give much better grouping; the
result showing as a piece of skilled work rather than
asa bungle. As the ground rises, and, though still in
cool woodland, is assured of perfect drainage, these
dainty little woodlanders will be happy. Further back
there will be Solomon’s Seal and here again White
Foxglove. Presently there will be the wild Wood
Sorrel and the native wood Anemone, and perhaps
one of the larger-flowered single kinds of the same.

As the wood walk approaches the garden there will
be the beautiful blue Anemone nemorosa robinsoniana
and A. apennina, and near them the best of the three
North American Uvularias (U. grandiflora) and the
handsome white Dentaria of Alpine woods. Here
also will be our own Purple Orchis and the Spanish
Squills (Sczl/la campanulata) with the white variety
of our native Wood Hyacinth or Squill, all closely
related.

But woodland matters, though tempting, not being
within the scope of the subject of the present volume,
must, however regretfully, be let pass with but scant
notice.

The old castle and its moat offer some pleasant
places for gardening both in wall and water. In the

-RSHIRE

N IN GLOUCESTE

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Af

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A KOCK AND POOLE G

SMALL PONDS AND POOLS 125

case of this old Kentish castellated house the origin-
ally enclosed space is extremely restricted. The over-
growth of Ivy on the ancient walls, and the moat half
choked with Flags and wild Water-Lilies, tell the tale
of the encroachment of nature. Such a place seems
almost best as it is; its own character stands out so
strongly defined that it would be almost a shock to
see the last new plants on its walls or in its waters.
Rather one would be disposed to have only the
oldest of our garden plants, Garden Roses, Rosemary,
Lavender, Pzonies, and Irises, and in the water only
native things; the Flowering Rush (Sutomus), Arrow-
head, and Buckbean. Incongruity in a case like this
would seem to be akin to desecration.

Rocky pools, when cleverly designed and judiciously
planted, may be among the very best of garden acces-
sories. But unless there is some knowledge of the
best ways of disposing the rocks, and some definite
design, it is best left alone. In the pool-garden
shown, the rocks, especially on the further 'side of the
water, are admirably placed, showing their continuous
natural stratification. But this garden was laid out
by an owner who would not have tolerated glaring
geological absurdities, and it was planted with things
both rare and rightly used, a combination not often
effected.

The picture does not show the garden at its best,
as the water is below the proper level, and leaves an
unsightly edge of shelving bottom. It has somewhat
of the character of the Japanese gardens, though it

126 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

has an advantage over these in that it aims at simple
beauty of rock and water and vegetation unhampered
by the strict traditional laws that give the gardens
of Japan a certain stiffness, and suggest a certain
whimsicality to the Western eye.

In some large places there are bathing pools, but
few have bathing pools that are beautifully planned.
A bath in running water in the early sunlight of our
summer days would be a much appreciated addition
to the delights of many a good garden. It might be
a beautiful thing in itself, with a long swimming-pool ;
the lower end in sunlight; the upper giving access
to a small building, perhaps of classical design, stand-
ing in a grove of Ilex, or it might take such a form as
that of this pool at the Villa d’Este, that wonderful
Italian garden of wall and water.

PLANTS ROOTING UNDER WATER BUT CLOSE TO

THE BANK
Rumex Hydrolapathum. Butomus umbellatus.
Phragmites communts. Typha latifolia.
Scirpus lacustris. Acorus Calamus.
Iris Pseud-acorus. Sparganium ramosum.
Alisma Plantago. Carex pseudo-Cyperus.

Menyanthes trifoliata.

PLANTS FOR WATER ONE TO FOUR FEET DEEP

Ranunculus aquatilis. Villarsia nympheotdes.
Sagittarta sagittifolia. Stratiotes aloides.
Hottonia palustris. Aponogeton distachyon.

Pondeteria cordata.

POO Ag hE Vili TAN DVESuEB.

SMALL PONDS AND POOLES 127

PLANTS FOR ROOTING IN LAND AT DAMP WATER-SIDE

Petasites vulgaris. Leucojum estivum.

Lysimachia vulgaris. Caltha palustris (also rooting in
Lythrum Salicaria. water).

Gunnera scabra. Tris levigata, syn. 1. Kempfert.
G. manicata. I. orientalis.

fleracleum mantegazzianum. I. sibirica.

f. giganteum. Leucanthemum lacustre.
Thalictrum flavum. Equisetum Telmateia.

TREES FOR DAMP AND WATER-SIDE PLACES

Populus (Poplar), canescens, Salix (Willow) alba, Russelliana.
nigra, tremula, fastigiata.

SHRUBS FOR THE WATER-SIDE

Cardinal Willow (cut down). Viburnum Opulus(Guelder Rose).
Golden Osier es Cydonia vulgaris (Quince).
Cornus sanguinea ,, Halesia tetraptera.,

CHAPTER XVI
TUBS IN SMALL WATER OR BOG GARDENS

WHERE there is not space enough for any approach to
such a bog and water garden as I have attempted to
sketch in the last chapter, a good deal may be done
with small cemented tanks and channels, or even with
petroleum casks sawn in half and sunk in the ground.
The tubs can, of course, equally be kept above ground
if it is preferred, but as I always like to consider all
garden problems from their best-looking point of view,
and as the use of the same plants would be advised
whether the tubs were sunk or not, I will suppose
that they are sunk so that they are not seen, their
rims being an inch below ground. They will be so
placed with regard to each other that they form such
a chain as will be convenient for allowing the water,
when it is turned on, to refresh the contents of each
tub in succession, if it comes by gravitation. Therefore
each tub, whether near its next neighbour or a little
way distant from it, must be so placed that there is
a continuous fall from the first tub to the last.

If the water is from the mains of a company there
should be one whole barrel at a higher elevation, with
a tap near the bottom whose outlet is above the level
of the highest of the sunk tubs. The water should be

128

TUBS IN WATER-GARDENS 129

let into this supply barrel from a height of a foot or
so, and will be all the better if it can come through
a rose-like nozzle that will help to aérate the water
before it reaches the barrel, in which it should also
stand some hours (the longer the better) before it is
let into the sunk tubs. One whole barrelful would
probably be enough to partly renew, or at any rate to
refresh, the contents of the water and bog tubs.

It would be a convenient arrangement for the sunk
tubs to follow the line of path on one of its sides, with
space round them for bog-plants; thus forming the
section for water-plants of a small rock-garden, whose
drier raised portion would be on the other side of the
path. If the little garden is made in level ground, it
will be well to excavate the space of the path and the
boggy area by its side to a depth of some eighteen
inches, and to throw it up on the other side, and to
arrange the pathway to come into the lowered space
from either end by some shallow rock steps of the kind
shown at p. 14.

The space where the tubs and surrounding bog-
plants are to be, should be further excavated to quite
half the depth of the tubs; then these must be nicely
let in to their proper depth, and adjusted with the
necessary fall (about an inch) from one to the other,
though each should stand quite level. Prepared soil
will then be filled in to the level of the rims. It
should be of peat and leaf-mould, with one stiffer
corner for the few bog-plants that like loam. Then
the rims of the tubs should be closely covered with

flat stones that just overlap, laid in such a way that
I

130 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

they do not slavishly follow the circle of the tub edge,
but rather serve to mask it. These stones may be
anything from two inches to four inches thick. Now
the little channel must be made that supplies the
water. It will look best if it is of the same stones,
some larger and some smaller, laid as a kind of rough
little trough on a bed of cement, so that the water is
carried without loss. There will have to be also a
slight ridge of cement and stones between the main
stones that cover the tub edges, so that the water shall
be compelled to flow onward, and not be lost over the
edge; this can still be kept so informal that the round
rim is not defined. The same kind of channel will
connect all the tubs. It will be quite enough in a
small space if there are five of the tubs for true
aquatics. My choice for these would be the little
white-flowered Vymphea pygmea, and the pretty pale
yellow seedling from it called Helvola, raised by M.
Marliac ; then one tub each for Pondeteria, Aponogeton,
and Butomus. Other tubs could be sunk for the marsh
plants, but if the service barrelful of water could by
some clever way of diversion be given alternately to
the tubs themselves and to the ground around them,
this ground being sunk just below the path level would
keep fairly moist. It would, however, be a more
effective place for marsh plants if the whole excavated
space had on the sides and bottom a coat of rough
cement concrete followed by a finer coat trowelled on
or “rendered” as a bricklayer would say.

The insides of the paraffin barrels will be made all
the more durable if they are burnt out before using.

TUBS IN WATER-GARDENS § 131

This is done by lighting a wisp of straw placed in each.
The wood is saturated with mineral oil which soon
catches fire. The whole inside is allowed to blaze for
three or four minutes, till it has a completely car-
bonised coating, which forms the best preservative
from decay. The fire is put out by turning the tubs
upside down.

Any of the marsh plants already mentioned will do
in the moist area, but in addition other small plants
may be named, The yellow Mountain Saxifrage
(.S. atzotdes), the Alpine Campanula barbata, the North
American Rhexia virginica, and the pretty native Bog
Asphodel ; and on the shady side Epzg@a repens.

The following groups will also come well : the deli-
cate Fern, Nephrodium Thelipteris, with Nierembergia
rivularis and the Water Forget-me-not ; Galax aphylla,
Shortia galactfolia, and Cornus canadensis ; the double
Cuckoo-flower and the neat Cardamine trifoliata; the
lovely little Houstonza, with the dainty creeping foliage
of Szbthorpia; the brilliant blue Genxtiana bavarica by
itself ; the violet-like Butterwort also alone; Primula
vosea and P. mvolucrata Monrot and the fairy-like
P. farinosa,; then severally, the American Helonias,
Gentiana Pneumonanthe, and in the more backward
places where rather larger plants will have space,
Cypripedium spectabile, Gentiana asclepiadea, and, if in
shade, the handsome American Fern, Oxoclea sensibilis.
Any bare spaces, when the little garden is first planted,
can be filled with Mossy Saxifrages, and the wettest
places with Sphagnum moss, whose presence is a com-
fort to many of the plants of the peat bog.

132 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Where tubs of aquatic plants are not sunk in the
ground their form seems to suggest some rather
symmetrical arrangement, but in this case their dis-
position would entirely depend on what local circum-
stances would offer or demand.

The little bog-garden will probably belong to
persons of small or moderate means, to whom it is
an object to avoid costly labour. Many an owner
of such a little place has pronounced mechanical
tastes and will do all but the heaviest earth-work
himself. He will set the stones and make the
cemented channels, and knock up a rather close-
paled trellis to hide the supply barrel, or even cover
it with an outer skin of rough rock-walling that would
make a good show on the bog-garden side. It would
be as well not to build the barrel right in, but only to
make a veiling wall showing to the bog-garden, so
that the barrel could be changed if necessary. The
piece of rock-wall would be buttressed back on each
side of the barrel and a little rough arch made in
front for hand access to the tap. Then somewhere
there might be a small dipping tank; such as the
one whose corner shows in the illustration. This is an
actual tank in just such a garden as has been described.
It is filled by rain water that runs down a path beyond
the mound which rises at its back, and a ten-foot
length of iron pipe brings it through. It was an easy
job to make a foot or two of stone and cement
channel with a small catchpit to stop the sand at the
upper end of the pipe. The dark hole under the

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‘OLA ‘VSOYONAN ANOWANV
‘VIEVTAAN WAITTIYL ‘NACYVD- DOG VP JO YANUYOOD AUC V NI LV¥AS HONOU

TUBS IN WATER-GARDENS 133

Harts-tongue shows where the hidden pipe delivers
the water into the tank.

Then in such places it is pleasant to make rough
seats of wood or stone. The wooden seat in the
picture looks very rugged, but is better to sit on than
it appears to be, and after all the purpose of a seat
in such a place is only as an occasional perch. Still,
if it is the right height, and the back has the right
slope, and the rail across comes at the proper place—
in this case it was too high when the photograph was
done and was lowered four inches—a fair amount of
comfort may be secured. The Ivy took very kindly
to this rough seat, wreathing the stumps, and, later,
the supports of the back rail. Another seat was built
of stone in an adjoining bit of garden, with a low
back against a bank. On the top of the bank tufts of
Thyme were planted that came bushing out and over
the edge of the stone, and made a living cushion
that was not only pleasantly restful but delightfully
fragrant.

PLANTS FOR BOG-GARDEN

IN TUBS
Nymphea pygmea. Nymphea Helvola.
Pondeteria cordata. Aponogeton distachyon.

Butomus palustris.

IN BOG OR DAMP GROUND

Saxifraga aizotdes. Nierembergia rivularis.
Rhexia virginica. Myosotis palustris.
Narthectum ossifragum. Nephrodium Thelipteris.

134 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Gentiana bavarica. Cardamine pratensis fi. pl.
Primula rosea. C. trifoliata.

P. Monroi. Arenaria balearica.

P. farinosa. Pinguicula grandiflora.
FHelonias bullata. Gentiana asclepiadea.
Galax aphylla. Onoclea sensibilis.

Shortia galactfolia. Gentiana Pneumonanthe.
Cornus canadensis. Cypripedium spectabile.

Epigea repens.

The names in brackets are those of plants that group well
together or near each other.

‘q@lHaN IVTH V HLIM YNVLI NYCUVD

CHAPTER XVII
TANKS IN GARDEN DESIGN

THE recent remarkable development of the Water-Lily
as a garden flower has already had a marked effect on
garden design, in that an important modern pleasure
ground is scarcely complete without its Lily tank.
The Water-Lily’s simple form both of flower and
foliage seems to adapt it specially for being grown
in basins in the ornamental garden. The illustration
shows a good example of such a Lily pool. The
broad flat kerb of wrought stone is in harmony both
with the level lines of the water and the flat expanse
of grass. Such an edging is far better than the lumpy
raised erections of poor design that so often disfigure
our garden pools. Raised parapets are only good
when they are very well designed, as in an illustration
at the beginning of the next chapter.

The proper relation of the water-level to the edge
of the tank is a matter that is often overlooked. It
should not be far from the level of the lower inside
line of the kerb. Nothing, except an empty tank
or fountain basin, has a much more unsatisfactory
appearance than a deep tank with only a little water

in the bottom. They are often built quite needlessly
135

1336 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

deep. It is most important in the garden landscape
that the tanks or basins should always have the water
at the proper level. In the case of a service tank that
is a necessary reservoir, or one whose use is to dip
from, it is another matter, but if a basin of water
forms a definite part of a garden scheme the line of
the water at the right height is as important as any
other line in the design.

The second example illustrated shows a larger tank,
also of good design and enriched with angle piers
supporting stone vases. Here the border is a little
raised, with a boldly curved section as befits its larger
area, but is not raised enough to impede the view of
the water or to cut it off from the beholder’s enjoy-
ment.

Many people will no doubt put forward an ob-
jection to the unprotected edge on account of danger
to children. But even a flat-edged tank need not
and should not be dangerous. In the first place there
is no need for any tank to be more than two feet
deep, while its under-water margin need not be
more than one foot deep. It is much better that
this should be in two distinct steps, the outer and
shallower part being two or three or more feet wide
according to the size of the pool. This would also
help to keep the water-plants in their place, as in a
dressed tank it looks better that whatever is grown
in it should be kept well away from the edge, and be
surrounded by a distinct margin of water.

Nothing is better suited to this kind of tank than
Water-Lilies, described at length in another chapter,

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TANKS IN GARDEN DESIGN § 137

and Arums (Calla Aithiopica) ; and in tanks of smaller
size Aponogeton and Pondeteria. It is quite likely that
Nelumbium might be grown as a tank plant in the
milder parts of England, but it would not be suitable
for dressed ground, as the water would have to be
run off in winter and the roots covered with a thick
layer of leaves or other material for protection from
frost.

In another chapter a Lily tank is described in a
‘court of beautiful architecture; but a much more
homely enclosure, with plain walls of brick or stone,
a large tank and a framing of handsome flower
borders, is a delightful thing in the garden. Such a
pleasant place is shown in the illustration.

Here it must be allowed that the unprotected edge
gives some impression of danger, but this is still
more apparent when a tank is set low in a garden
and has a steep turf slope next to it. In this case
not only is the mind perturbed but a golden oppor-
tunity is wasted. For, by cutting away the slope
and a little more, as shown by the dotted line in the
upper figure of the diagram, and making a pathway
just above the water-level, paved with stone or brick,
and putting in a dry wall and two sets of steps for
easy access, a little wall-garden may be had on the
land side, and on the water side a choice place for
moisture-loving plants such as Mimulus and Caltha,
Water Forget-me-not, and those Ferns that delight
in a place where their roots can suck their fill of
water.

This part of the garden design alone, of tanks in

138 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

enclosed spaces, is worthy of much further develop-
ment. It would combine equally well with upright
mortared walls of brick or stone, or with gently
sloping dry walls. How easily such a wall and water
garden could be made just below a pond-head, with
a fall of water dashing into a little rocky basin, then
passing under a bridge of one flat stone into a long-
shaped pool, with its narrow water-walk below and
its wider wall-walk on the higher level. What a
paradise for Ferns and Wall Pennywort and Mossy
Saxifrages would be the cool and rather damp rock-
walling under the head, this being on the western
or southern side, and what a pretty and interesting
place altogether !

Throughout the history of the world, as it is written
in the gardens that remain to us of old times, and
from these, through all chronicled ages down to
our own days, some kind of walled space of garden
ground, cooled and enlivened with running and falling
water, has always been made for human enjoyment
and repose. It may be said to have been, especially
in warmer climates than our own, one of the neces-
sities of refined civilisation. The old gardens of
Spain, in the ancient Moorish palaces of Granada
and Seville, are as complete to-day with their many
fountain jets and channels of running water as when
they were first built; and though, as we see them
now, the original design of the planting, except per-
haps in the lines of giant Cypresses, is no doubt lost,
yet they still illustrate in their several ways that

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TANKS IN GARDEN DESIGN 139

simple human need for the solace of a quiet garden,
plentifully watered and well furnished with beautiful
flowers and foliage and noble tree-form, as shown
in the garden courts in the hearts of these fortress-
palaces of many centuries ago.

How beautiful some of these walled and fountained
courts are, not only in Spain, but in many a southern
and Oriental land, and all the more beautiful when
they are simply planted with just the few things that
seem to have been there from all time. Perhaps a
Pomegranate with its scarlet bloom and ruddy sun-
browned fruit, and a_ large-flowered Jasmine; a
Lemon-tree, yielding shade and perfume ; and, shoot-
ing up straight and tall, the pink willow-like wands
of the rose-bloomed Oleander; while giving grateful
shade within, though growing in some outer garden
space, there is a group of Date Palm or a giant Ilex,
a Sweet Bay or a Terebinth.

Tanks of water combined with beds of flowers and
cool greenery formed an essential part of the Roman
and Greco-Roman houses of old, as we know and can
see to this day in the well-preserved remains of the
houses of Pompeii, where the pillared peristylium
enclosed a garden with fountains and tanks. The
annexed illustration of a Pompeian house shows
the peristylium some fifteen paces forward, the
shallow tank in the foreground being the impluvium
in the central space of the atrium or main hall of
the building. Above the impluvium an open space
in the roof admitted the rain water.

The best of the basins with high parapets may be

140 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

seen in some of the old Italian gardens. Sometimes
a fountain basin will rise out of the path or pavement
with a dwarf wall of stone or marble some two feet
high, panelled and enriched, and surmounted by a cop-
ing so nearly flat that it forms a convenient seat, while
the water within rises nearly to the cornice moulding.
In the case of very large basins they are often and
beautifully surrounded by an open balustrade, good
to lean upon, while the water remains at or a little
below the ground level.

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CHAPTER XVIII
A LILY TANK IN A FORMAL GARDEN

WHENEVER I have seen the large formal gardens
attached to important houses of the Palladian type
that are so numerous throughout England, I have
always been struck by their almost invariable lack
of interest and want of any real beauty or power of
giving happiness. For at the risk of becoming
wearisome by a frequent reiteration of my creed
in gardening, I venture to repeat that I hold the
firm belief that the purpose of a garden is to give
happiness and repose of mind, firstly and above all
other considerations, and to give it through the
representation of the best kind of pictorial beauty
of flower and foliage that can be combined or in-
vented. And I think few people will deny that this
kind of happiness is much more often enjoyed in
the contemplation of the homely border of hardy
flowers than in many of these great gardens, where
the flowers lose their attractive identity and with it
their hold of the human heart, and have to take a
lower rank as mere masses of colour filling so many
square yards of space. Gardens of this kind are
only redeemed when some master-mind, accepting

the conditions of the place as they are, decides on
141

i142 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

treating it in some bold way, either in one grand
scheme of colour-harmony, or as an exposition of
this principle combined with the display of magni-
ficent foliage-masses, or by some other such means
as may raise it above the usual dull dead-level.

And, seeing how many gardens there still are of
this type, I scarcely wonder that our great champion
of hardy flowers should put himself into an attitude
of general condemnation of the system, though I
always regret that this should include denunciation
of all architectural accessories. For if one has seen
some of the old gardens of the Italian Renaissance,
and the colossal remains of their forerunners of still
greater antiquity, one can hardly fail to be impressed
with the unbounded possibilities that they suggest
to a mind that is equally in sympathy with beautiful
plant-life and with the noble and poetical dignity
of the most refined architecture—possibilities that
are disregarded in many of these large gardens, with
their often steep or mean flights of steps, often badly-
designed balustrades, and weary acreages of gravelled
paths,

I always suppose that these great wide dull
gardens, sprawling over much too large a space,
are merely an outgrowth of plan-drawing. The
designer sitting over his sheet of paper has it within
such easy view on the small scale, and though he
lays out the ground in correct proportion with the
block-plan of the house, and is therefore right on
paper, yet no human eye can ever see it from that
point of view; and as for its use in promoting any

A LILY TANK 143

kind of happiness, it can only be classed among
others of those comfortless considerations that per-
plex and worry the mind with the feeling that they
are too much, and yet not enough.

For the formal garden of the best type | can picture
to myself endless possibilities both of beauty and
delight—for though my own limited means have in a
way obliged me to practise only the free and less
costly ways of gardening, such as give the greatest
happiness for the least expenditure, and are therefore
the wisest ways for most people to walk in—yet I
also have much pleasure in formal gardens of the
best kinds. But it must be nothing less than the very
best, and it is necessarily extremely costly, because it
must entail much building beautifully designed and
wrought. It must also have an unbounded supply of
water, for so only could one work out all the best
possibilities of such a garden.

There seems to me to be a whole mine of wealth
waiting to be worked for the benefit of such gardens,
for, as far as I am aware, what might now be done has
never been even attempted with any degree of care-
ful or serious study. When one thinks of the very
few plants known for garden use to the ancients, and
to those who built and planted the noble gardens of
the Italian Renaissance, and when one compares this
limited number with the vast range of beautiful shrubs
and plants we now have to choose from, one cannot
help seeing how much wider is the scope for keen
and critical discrimination. And though some of the
plants most anciently in cultivation, such as the Rose,

1444 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Violet, Iris, Poppy, Jasmine, and Vine, are still among
the best, yet we are no longer tied to those and a few
others only. The great quantity we have now to
choose from is in itself a danger, for in the best and
most refined kinds of formal gardening one is more
than ever bound to the practice of the most severe
restraint in the choice of kinds, and to accept nothing
that does not in its own place and way satisfy the
critical soul with the serene contentment of an abso-
lute conviction.

I therefore propose to give one example of a por-
tion of a formal garden such as I hold to be one of
the most pleasant and desirable kind, and such as will
present somewhat of the aspect, and fill the mind with
somewhat of the sentiment, of those good old gardens
of Italy. And though the initial expense will be
heavy—for in work of this kind the artist’s design
must be carried out to the smallest detail, without
skimping or screwing, or those frequent and disas-
trous necessities of lopping or compromise that so
often mar good work—yet the whole would be so
solid and permanent that the cost of its after-main-
tenance would be small out of all proportion with
that of the usual large gardens. These always seem
as if purposely designed to bind upon the shoulders
of their owners the ever-living burden of the most
costly and wasteful kind of effort in the trim keeping
of turf and Box edging and gravelled walks, with the
accompanying and unavoidable vexatious noises of
rumbling roar of mowing machine, clicking of shears,
and clanking grind of iron roller.. In the chief por-

Ag BiyY STANK, 145

tions or courts of my formal garden all this fidgetty
labour and worry of ugly noise would be unknown,
and the only sounds of its own need or making would
be the soothing and ever-delightful music of falling
and running water.

Thoughts of this kind have come to me all the more
vividly within the last year or two when I have seen
in the gardens of friends the beautifully - coloured
forms of the newer Water-Lilies. Lovely as these
are in artificial pools or in natural ponds and quiet
back-waters, they would probably be still more beauti-
ful, or rather their beauty could be made still more
enjoyable, by their use in a four-square tank in the
Water-Lily court of a formal garden, one’s mind all
the more readily inviting the connection because of
the recollection of the Mympheum of the ancient
Roman gardens, of tank or canal form, with stone-
paved walks shaded by a pillared portico, and of
Nymphea, the botanical name of the Water-Lily.
There is a perfectly well-dressed look about those
Lilies, with their large leaves of simplest design, that
would exactly accord with masonry of the highest
refinement, and with the feeling of repose that is
suggested by a surface of still water.

All gardening in which water plays an important
part implies a change of level in the ground to be
dealt with. I am taking as an example a place where
ground slopes away from the house, so that it demands
some kind of terraced treatment. First, there would
be the space next to the house; its breadth having

due relation to the height of the building. From this
K

146 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

space a flight of easy steps (the first thing shown at
the top of the plan) would descend to the Water-Lily
court, landing on a wide flagged path that passes all
round the tank. On all four sides there are also steps
leading down from the path into the water. I cannot
say why it is, but have always observed that a beauti-
ful effect is gained by steps leading actually into
water. In this case I would have the two lowest steps
actually de/ow the water-line. Although steps are
in the first instance intended for the human foot, yet
we have become so well accustomed to the idea of
them as easy means of access from one level to
another that in many cases they are also desirable as
an aid to the eye, and in such a place as I think of,
the easy lines of shallow steps from the level of the
path to that of the water-surface and below it, would,
I consider, be preferable to any raised edging such
as is more usually seen round built tanks. It would
give the eye the pleasant feeling of being invited to
contemplate the Lilies at its utmost ease, instead of
being cut off from them by a raised barrier. On the
sides of the path away from the tank is a flower
border, backed by the wall that bounds the whole
area of the court. On the three sides, to the right
and left and across the tank as you stand on the main
flight of steps, the wall, midway in each space, falls
back into a half-round niche. The niche across the
tank is filled with Cannas, the taller kinds at the back
for stately stature and nobility of large leafage ; the
smaller ones, of lower habit and larger bloom, being
planted towards the front. Coming down the steps

A LILY TANK 147

you see the level lines of water-surface jewelled with
the lovely floating bloom of white and pink and
tender rose colour, the steps into the tank on the
near and far sides still further insisting on the re-
pose of the level line. The eye and mind are thus in
the best state of preparation for enjoying the bold
uprightness of growth of the Cannas. In the flower
borders next the wall I would have Lilies, and plants
mostly of Lily-like character, Crinums and Funkias,
and of the true Lilies a limited number of kinds—the
noble White Lily, Z. Harris, L. longifiorum, L. Brownt,
and white and rosy forms of L. speciosum. These
would grow out of the groups of the beautiful pale-
foliaged Funkia grandifiora and of the tender green
of the Lady Fern and of Harts-tongue. I would not
let the walls be too much covered with creepers, for
I hold that wherever delicate architecture marries
with gardening, the growing things should never over-
run or smother the masonry; but in the Lily court I
would have some such light-running creeping things
as can be easily led and trained within bounds, such
as Clematis Flammula, blue Passion Flower, and, if
climate allows, Rhodochiton volubile, Cobe@a scandens,
and Solanum jasminoides. These would be quite
enough, and even perhaps too many.

The half-round niches to right and left are partly
occupied by small basins, into which water falls,
through a sculptured inlet, from a height of some
feet. From these it runs under the flagged pathway
into the tank. Two overflows pass underground from
this to right and left of the Canna niche, from which

1448 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

the water is led out again into the small tanks at the
angles of the paved space below the semi-circular
stairway. From these it is again led away into a
series of little channels and falls and then makes two
rippling rills by the ‘side of the next flights of steps
and lengths of pavement. To return to the Water-
Lily tank, its border spaces at the angles of the basin
would have raised edges, and would be planted with
dwarf flowering Cannas, mostly of one kind and
colour. The enclosing walls would be about eight
feet high, and as groves of beautiful trees would be
in their near neighbourhood, I should wish that any
foliage that could be seen from within the court
should be that of Ilex.

In describing and figuring such a small piece of
formal garden, I am endeavouring to show how a
good use can be made, in what might be one detail
of a large scheme, of beautiful plants whose use was
unknown to the old garden builders, for, with the
exception of the White Lily, hardly any of the plants
just named could have been had.

Had I ever had occasion to design a garden in what
I should consider the most reasonable interpretation
of the good Italian style, I should have been sparing
in the use of such walled courts, keeping them and
the main stairways for the important and mid-most
part of the design, as shown in the plan, whether the
formal design was placed on the next level below the
house, or, as in the case I am contemplating, at a
right angle to it, and coming straight down the face
of the hill. In this case, wherever flights of steps

“dHgqIYOSAd NYCUVD AHL AO NV Id

A LILY TANK 149

occurred, there would be walls well planted above and
below, stretching away to right and left, and below
them long level spaces of grass. One of these long
grassy spaces might well be made into a perfect
picture gallery of the lovely modern developments
of Water-Lily, in connection with a Water-Lily court.
Straight down the middle of the turfed space might
be a narrow rill of water fifteen inches wide, easy to
- step over, bounded by a flat kerb a foot to eighteen
inches wide and level with the grass. At intervals
in its length it would lead into separate small square-
sided tanks only a few feet wide, but large enough
to show the complete beauty of some one kind of
Water-Lily at a time, so that the lovely flowers and
leaves and surface of still water would be as it were
enclosed in a definite frame of stone or marble.
Where at the lower or valley edge of these long
grassy spaces a descent occurred to the next lower
level there would be a dry wall planted with Cistus
and free-growing Roses—never, zever, sharp sloping
banks of turf. I always try to avoid the spirit of
intolerance in anything, but for these turf banks, so
frequent in gardens, I can only feel a distinct aver-
sion. Did such a turf bank ever give any one the
slightest happiness? Did any one ever think it
beautiful? The upper terrace wall above the level
of the Lily court would no doubt be surmounted by
a wrought-stone balustrade, but as the scheme de-
scended towards the lowest level the architectural
features would diminish, so that they would end in
a flagged walk only, with steps where needful. But

150 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

the treatment of this would depend on what was
below. If it was all pleasure ground, or if there
was a river or lake, the architectural refinements
would be continued, though not obtruded; if it was
a kitchen garden it would be approached by perhaps
a simpler walled enclosure for Vines and Figs, the
paved walk passing between two green spaces, in
the centre of each of which would stand a Mulberry
tree. On the upper levelled spaces right and left the -
formal feeling would merge into the free, for there
is no reason why the two should not be combined,
and on one level at least the green expanse should
be seen from end to end, the flagged path only
passing across it. And all the way down there would
be the living water, rippling, rushing, and falling.
Open channels in which it flowed with any con-
siderable fall would be built in little steps with falls
to oblige the water to make its rippling music, and
in the same way throughout the whole garden every
point would be studied, so as to lose sight of no
means, however trifling, of catching and guiding any
local matter or attribute, quality, or circumstance that
could possibly be turned to account for the increase
of the beauty and interest and delightfulness of the
garden. One small section I have ventured to de-
scribe and figure in detail, but only as a suggestion
of how much may be done with a limited number of
plants only. One wants to see one beautiful picture
at a time, not a muddle of means and material that
properly sorted and disposed might compose a dozen.
I do not say that it is easy; on the contrary, it wants

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A LILY TANK 1

a good deal of the knowledge that only comes of
many forms of study and labour and effort. But
the grand plants are now so numerous and so easily
accessible that one should consider all ways of using
them worthily.

As far as I understand the needs of such a garden
as I have sketched, with a nucleus or backbone
of pure formality, how grandly one could use all
the best plants. How, descending the slope, at
every fresh landing some new form of plant beauty
would be displayed ; how, coming up from below, the
ascent of, say, a hundred feet, instead of being a toil,
would be a progress of pleasure by the help of the
smooth flagged path and the wide flights of easy
steps. Every step in the garden would be nearly two
feet broad and never more than five inches high, no
matter how steep the incline. If ground falls so
rapidly that steps of such a gradient cannot be
carried straight up and down, we build out a bold
landing and carry the steps in a double flight right
and left, and then land again, and come down to
the next level with another flight. Then we find
what a good wide space is left below for a basin
and a splash of water or some handsome group of
plants, or both, and that the whole scheme has gained
by the alteration in treatment that the form of the
ground made expedient. Then there are frequent
seats, so placed as best to give rest to the pilgrim
and to display the garden-picture.

Where the lower flights of steps occur we are
passing through woodland, with a not very wide

152 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

space between the edge of the wood and the wide
paved way, here unbounded by any edging. Here
we have, in widespread groups, plants of rather large
stature—Bamboos, and the great Knotweeds of Japan,
the large Tritomas and the Giant Reeds and grasses,
Arundo, Gynerium and Eulalia, and between them
the running water, now no longer confined in built
channels, but running free in shallow pebbly rills.
Here we have also other large-leaved plants—the
immense Gunneras and the native Butter-bur, the
North American Rodgersia, and the peltate Saxifrage,
all happy on the lower cooler levels and gentle
slopes; watered by the rill, and half shaded by the
nearer trees. As the path rises it comes clear of the
wood, and the garden spreads out right and left in
the lower levels of its terraced spaces. One of these,
perhaps the lowest, I should be disposed to plant
with Bamboos on both sides of a broad green path.
As the paved path mounts, the architectural features
become more pronounced ; the steps that were quite
plain below have a slight undercutting of the lower
part of the front. A little higher, and this becomes
a fully moulded feature, with a distinct shadow ac-
centuating the overhanging front edge of the step,
and so by an insensible gradation we arrive at the
full dress of the Lily court and terrace above.

In so slight a sketch as this one cannot attempt to
describe in detail all the beautiful ways of using such
good things as Roses and Clematis (among hosts of
others) that such a garden suggests. But it is perhaps
in gardens of formal structure that some of their

A LILY TANK 153

many uses may best be seen; for the long straight
line of the coping of a parapet may be redeemed
from monotony by a leaping wave-mass of a free-
growing Rose, with its spray-showers of clustered
bloom, and the tender grace of the best of the small
white-bloomed Clematises of spring and autumn is
never seen to better advantage than when wreathing
and decorating, but not hiding or overwhelming, the
well-wrought stonework that bounds the terrace and
crowns its wall.

CHAPTER XIX
WATER MARGINS

Happy are those who desire to do some good water-
gardening and who have natural river and stream
and pond, as yet untouched by the injudicious im-
prover. For a beautiful old bank or water edge is a
precious thing and difficult to imitate. If it is lost
it is many years before its special features can be
regained. But if the pond still possesses its own
precious edge, and has its upper end half silted with
alluvial mud, its great tussocks of coarse Sedges, its
groups of Alders and luscious tufts of Marsh Mari-
golds, it is as a canvas primed and ready for the
artist’s brush.

In such a case what will have first to be thought of
will be some means of comfortable access. For if a
quiet bay in pond or river has near the bank a bed of
Water Crowfoot or the rarer Vzllarsia, we want to get
close to it on firm ground without fear of slipping
into the water or getting bogged among the rushes on
the bank. So we make a path by putting down some
rough ballast and ramming it partly into the moist
ground, and lay flat stepping stones upon it, and level
up to them. In the very wettest places, or if the path

has to be taken actually into the water, some small
154

”
A

pe
\ e

‘ Tadeo hearns 7

ROCK AND STREAM GARDEN IN DEVONSHIRE.

WATER MARGINS 155

Alder trunks, cut up two feet long and driven into the
wet ground, will make a durable and effectual sub-
structure.

It is a matter of simple comfort to provide these
easy ways; but it is equally important that such paths
should be so done that they have no appearance of
garden paths. It is not an easy matter to get a
labourer to understand that a path in woodland or on
water margin or other wild place must not have hard
edges, but that, once the needful width is cleared or
dug out or levelled, that the edge should die away
imperceptibly into the true character of what is next
to it on either side, just as it does in a forest track that
has been used for ages, but has never been made or
mended.

Any hard edge of walling, cement, or wooden
campshotting is fatal to beauty of wild water margin,
and makes free planting almost impossible. Such
edges may be needed in more formally designed
garden ground, but they are not only needless, but
actually destructive of beauty in a pond or pool of
informal shape. A pond-head sometimes must be
rather straight and in some cases may have to be
walled, but when the wall is not needful and the
pond edge is to be planted for beauty, its natural
shore should be treasured and retained, no matter
how boggy or unsound it may be in places. It is
all the prettier if the path does not exactly follow
its edge, but only occasionally reaches it; and it
can be made quite dry and sound by some such
method as that above described at a far less cost than

156 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

would have to be undertaken for an edge-destroying
walling.

It was a good day for our water margins when the
Giant Gunneras were introduced, for the immense
size and noble form of their foliage enables us to
make water-pictures on a scale that before was im-
possible. They are well seen across some little
breadth of water like the narrow pool at that wonder-
ful half-wild garden at Wisley ; but one would like to
grow them in several other ways, one of them being
on the banks of some stream that passes down a
narrow valley with a wide and shallow stream-way
strewn with great grey boulders.

The Gunneras are so overpoweringly large that
they dwarf everything near them ; their size seems to
demand some association with primeval rock-forms
and evidences of primeval forces. Alone among such
rocks, and in a valley or mountain hollow whose
sides are clothed with dense darkness of Firs, one can
imagine these great plants looking their noblest.

In that same good garden at Wisley the beautiful
Japanese /ris /evigata or J. Kempfert grows by the
thousand—in the flowering grassy banks by the
narrow water opposite the Gunneras, by the edges of
other ponds, and in a meadow-like space of several
acres. In all these and other such places this good
plant is doing well. It is certainly ¢ze Water Iris
above all others.

I have often found that among lovers of flowers of
the less careful order there is a general idea that all

/sank Kearns

IRIS LEVIGATA OR KAEMPFERI IN MR. WILSON’S GARDEN.

BY DHE POOL SIDE:

COW-PARSNEP (HERACLEUM)

WATER MARGINS 1$7

Irises like water, and that Irises, with them, mean
Flag-leaved Irises. These are for the most part moun-
tain plants, while /ris florentina grows on wall-tops ;
and though they may do fairly well on a well-drained
river bank, they are not the true Irises for water edges.

Among those most commonly in cultivation, the
ones for the water-sides are the native yellow-flowered
Sword-flag (/ris Pseud-acorus), I. ochroleuca, grand in
cool, most loam; the varieties of /. s¢b¢rica, and the
noble Japan flower so grandly grown at Wisley.

Plants that are distinct of habit and large of leaf
always look well near water; this has been felt in the
Devonshire garden, where a tuft of Veratrum album is
seen seated on a rock overhanging the rushing stream,
though it is not a true water-plant.

The great Cow-Parsnep (Heracleum) is one of the
best of water-side ornaments. The kind we have
known and used so long seems likely to be superseded
by the new and still handsomer H. mantegazzzanum.
The plants of Cow-Parsnep in the picture are rather
too much smothered among other growths, which
hide the handsome radical leaves. It is seen at its
best in grassy water edge or other cool damp place
where it is backed by dark foliage. It would be
excellent about old water-mill buildings.

Thalictrum flavum is a first-rate water-side plant.
Originally a native and not unfrequently to be found
on river banks, it has been improved and much in-
creased in size by cultivation, and now throws up its
grand heads of feathery yellow bloom to a height of
seven feet or more.

158 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

It is always well in planting pond edges to have a
good quantity of the flag-like native growths—Bul-
rushes and Sweet-sedge and the best of the other
Sedges. Unless the pond is in immediate connection
with garden ground, masses of handsome flowering
plants look all the better when they are detached
from one another, as they are usually seen in nature.
It maintains the wild-garden character that is suitable
in places that are rather distant from the garden.
E-quisetum is also one of the best of the water-side
plants for this use; best in boggy ground in shade.
The larger of the plants described in the chapter on
small ponds or pools will, of course, also do well by
the larger water spaces.

Where the pond adjoins the garden a more free
use can be made of garden plants. The pond-edge
in the picture has been boldly sown with Poppies
and Foxgloves with capital effect. In such a place
the perennial Oriental Poppy would also be excellent
and the larger of the herbaceous Spirzeas, the large
white-plumed S. Avuncus, S. venusta, S. palmata, and
the double Meadow Sweet, S. U/maria.

Often one sees some piece of water that just misses
being pictorial, and yet might easily be made so.
Such a case is that of the sheet of water in the illus-
tration. It is in the park ground of a fine place
whose ancient gardens are full of beauty, and whose
environment is of grandly wooded hill and dale. The
abrupt line of this pond cutting straight across the

EDGE,

A FLOWERY POND E

‘GHAOUdNI HONW YA LHDIN LVYHL GNOd GOOD V

WATER MARGINS 159

foot of the rising ground on the right is somewhat
harsh and unnatural. A great improvement could
easily be effected by a moderate amount of navvy’s
work, if it were directed to running a sharp-pointed
bay into the rising ground on the right, and tipping
the earth taken out into the square corner on the near
right hand; saving the bed of rushy growth and
planting it back on the new edge and into the bay.
The exact position of the excavation would be chosen
by following any indication towards a hollow form in
the ground above, and by considering how its lines
would harmonise with the lines already existing.
The two sides of the bay would also be eased down
after the manner of those hollow places one some-
times sees by pond or lake in rising ground where
cattle or wild creatures come down to drink.

PLANTS FOR WATER MARGINS.

Caltha palustris. Iris Pseud-acorus.
Gunnera manicata. I. sibirica.

G. scabra. I. levigata,
Heracleum giganteum. I. ochroleuca.

Hi, mantegazzianum. Thalictrum flavum.
Equisetum Telmateia. Bamboos, in variety.

Polygonum Sieboldt. Polygonum sachalinense.

CHAPTER XX
WATER-LILIES

IT would be impossible to over-estimate the value of
the cultivated Nymphzas to our water-gardens. These
grand plants enable us to compose a whole series of
new pictures of plant beauty of the very highest order.
Their now great variety of colouring, as well as their
diversity of size, allow us to make a wide choice so as
to suit all purposes; the largest, hybrids of the great
American species, for the larger ponds, those of
medium size for pools and tanks, and the smallest
for those of us who have to be content with a few
tubs or small cemented basins.

But certain plants, and especially those that, like the
Water-Lilies, have a very clearly defined character,
seem able to give us their highest beauty in just
certain circumstances. We have to find out the right
kind of environment. Beautiful they are and must be
in all ways, but one of the things most needful in good
gardening is to study the plants and provide them with
the most suitable sites and surroundings. Thus, de-
lightful as the Water-Lilies are in the margin of a
wide lake, they are still better in a pond of moderate

size, or even in one that has more the character of a
160

=
os
y

;

‘ANOd GCHUALTAHS V NI SHITITUALVM

WATER-LILIES 161

large pool. If this has a near surrounding of wooded
rising ground, not of trees overhanging the water,
but at such a distance as to shut in the scene and to
promote stillness of the water surface, the pond will
be a happy one for its Lilies. Such a scene as Mr.
Robinson’s Lily pond in North Sussex is an example
that could scarcely be bettered. Here are some of
the largest of the good hybrids, white, pale yellow,
and pale rose, in liberal groups of one good kind at a
time, showing the very best that they can do for us in
our own natural waters. Such ponds occur by the
thousand in English parks and pleasure grounds, and
the lovely Lilies only need planting where they will
be free of rank growths of undesirable water-weeds,
and where they can grow and increase and reward us
year after year with their abundant bloom of surpris-
ing beauty.

In this, as in nearly all other gardening, if the best
pictures are wanted, the simplest ways must be em-
ployed; for if too many kinds are mixed up or even
used too close together, the best effect of the picture
is lost. Thus if more than one colour or kind is
to be seen at a time, it is best to put together gentle
harmonies, as of white and pale yellow, or white and
pale rose. Pale and deep rose also, with blush-white,
will make a pleasant colour harmony ; white and pale
blue will be, we hope, a possible combination in the
near future.

A heavy debt of gratitude is owing to M. Latour

Marliac of Temple-sur-Lot, France ; for to him is due
D

162 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

the credit of having perceived the adaptability of the
various hardy species of Water-Lily for purposes of
hybridisation, and for the yielding of a large variety of
beautiful forms, It is to the labours of this gentle-
man that we owe the greater number of the beautiful
flowers that we can now have in our ponds and
tanks.

Other growers have followed M. Marliac’s example,
and now there are many who are working on the
same lines; so that, though we have already a large
number of beautiful hybrid Water-Lilies, there is no
doubt that we have by no means come to the end of
their development, though it seems difficult to believe
that anything handsomer than Mymphea marliacea
albida and the beautiful pale yellow WV. m. Chromatella
can possibly be produced. Already in the Laydekeri
group there are rose and red and purplish flowers ;
also the fine reds developed by Mr. Froebel of Zurich,
while M. Marliac promises some of blue colouring,
probably the progeny of the blue JV. stellata of Upper
Egypt and the blue Water-Lily of Zanzibar. The
difficulty of obtaining the blue colouring in the hardy
plant is that these blues are natives of tropical regions,
but there seems good reason to suppose that this will
be got over, for there are also blue Nymphzas from
the Cape and from Australia which will no doubt also
play their part in the production of new garden
kinds.

For planting Water-Lilies in ponds a depth of two
or three feet is in many cases enough, though some

WATER-LILIES

fe Ons
a
ae =)

WATER-LILIES 163

are quite contented with eighteen inches. - But if a
vigorous kind is planted too shallow, as it insists on
having stalks of normal length, both leaves and flowers
become unduly spread. It will probably be found
that growth in tanks will prove to be the more certain
method of controlling the plants, for in some cases
when the roots are in a restricted space and can be
given a special soil of good loam the flowers are much
more abundant. The rich natural mud of the ponds
no doubt varies much in its nature, for whereas in one
pond a Lily will flower abundantly, the same plant in
another is found to run to a large mass of vigorous
foliage, and to give very little bloom. This seems to
point to the advantage of the tank.

The roots are generally planted in ponds by sinking
an old basket containing the root, planted in good
strong loam, a soil that all Water-Lilies delight in.
The larger Lilies, such as the Marliacea hybrids, which
owe their origin to the strong-growing American kinds,
will do in fairly deep water, such as a depth of four
feet or even more; while the smallest, VV. Aygme@ea and
its pretty yellow variety Helvola, of M. Marliac’s
raising, will do in a few inches. This little gem, with
its neat marbled leaves and abundance of bloom, is
the best of Water-Lilies for a tub.

The accompanying lists show which species and
varieties, as at present known, are most suitable for
the various uses :—

164

WALL AND WATER GARDENS

WATER-LILIES, SPECIES AND HYBRIDS

SPECIES AND SUB-SPECIES

Nymphea alba.

a

”)

candidissima (the finest form, requires
more room and a greater depth than the

”

type, say five to six feet).
alba plentsstma.
» vosea, syn. NV. Caspary, also N. sphero-
carpa rosea; pale rosy-pink, the earliest
to flower, ceasing also early.
candida, the Bohemian Water-Lily, growth
medium.

fiava, pale yellow, from Southern United
States, only suited for warm water or
the most sheltered of positions outside ;
growth weedy.

gladstoniana, a remarkably fine white,
colour pure, petals broad, one of the
very best.

odorata, the American white Water-Lily,
growth medium.

odorata rubra, the Cape Cod variety of the
preceding.

pygme@a, the Asiatic white Water-Lily, not
so profuse of flower as some.

tuberosa, another American white Water-
Lily, of strong but not robust growth.

tuberosa maxima, a stronger growing form.

WATER-LILIES 165

Nymphea tuberosa Richardsoni, reputedly the finest

”

variety, with very double flowers.
tuberosa rosea; in the way of WV. alba
rosea.

HYBRIDS

Nymphea Marliacea hybrids are probably derived from

NV. alba candidissima and N. odorata rubra,
or from a tender coloured species, or
possibly WV. alba rosea. Scarcely a trace
of JV. odorata is apparent in any of these
hybrids, this latter having characteristics
quite its own. These hybrids are :—

Marliacea carnea, very pale tinge of pink at
base of petals.

Marliacea candida, a grand white, the largest
of all, frequently measuring nine or ten
inches in diameter.

Marliacea rosea, much better than carnea ;
the pink more decided and the flowers
of finer form.

Marliacea flammea, a highly coloured and
very fine hybrid.

Marliacea rubro-punctata, of the largest size,
colour reddish carmine.

Marliacea Chromatella, the only yellow of
this section, a continuous flowering
variety.

Marliacea colossea, reputedly the giant of
the race.

166 WALL AND WATER GARDEN

The foregoing are all of vigorous and dense growth,
being seen to the best advantage in deep water when
well established, say from four to eight feet.

The Laydekeri section of the Marliac Water-Lilies
appears to have some affinity with JV. odorata in the
form of their flowers, but the root-stock is quite
different ; possibly this resemblance was subdued in
one of the parents. Of these hybrids WV. Laydekerz
rosea 1s extremely difficult to propagate; it is not
disposed to make offsets, hence it is only increased
by seeding. These are well suited to shallow pools
of water, and for fountains, tanks, or tubs.

Nymphaea Laydekeri rosea, a pale rose colour, darken-
ing each day with age; three colours are
frequently seen upon the same plant ;
comes into flower quite early.

“ Laydekeri lilacina, different, in that it propa-
gates freely; flowers tinged with pale
lilac.

m Laydekeri purpurata, a darker form of the
foregoing, otherwise similar.

“i Laydekeri fulgens, the darkest of this section,
and larger in size of flowers and in
growth,

- Laydekeri rosea prolifera is reputed to be
true to its name.

The JV. odorata section of the Marliacean hybrids
have a greater resemblance to their parent on this

WATER-LILIES 167

side. I am disposed to think these have been raised
by crossing WV. odorata with NV. odorata rubra, because
the first of these, viz., VV. odorata rosacea and JV. ex-
guisita, appear to be true to this type. These Water-
Lilies are better suited to shallow water, say from
eighteen inches to two feet in depth. All are sweetly
scented. These Nympheas are all quite recognisable
by their peculiar, hard, wiry-looking root-stock, which
is long and slender ; the roots also are not so succulent
as in the preceding.

Nymphea odorata exquisita is a charming form; itis a
lovely shade of rosy-pink extending to
the extremities of the petals.

odorata rosacea, much paler in colour than
the preceding, and quite as beautiful in
its tints ; a profuse flowering plant.

7 odorata suavissima, another variety, the
flowers of which are stated to be larger
than the foregoing, but of the same tints,
possibly darker on the whole.

odorata Luciana, in the way of WV. odorata
exquisita, perhaps lighter in colour of
the two.

3 odorata sulphurea, a charming Lily, pale
yellow in colour, flowers thrown well
out of the water, foliage mottled. This
and the following are in Water-Lilies
what the Cactus Dahlia is in its family,
having long, narrow, and _ tapering
petals.

168 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

Nymphea odorata sulphurea grandiflora, a finer form
of the preceding, with more vigour.
ss odorata caroliniana, a pale, clear, rosy pink.
3 as ij nivea, a pure. white
variety, extremely beautiful.
3 odorata caroliniana perfecta, a most delicate

tint of pale pink, quite lovely.

Other Marliacean hybrids are as follows. These
have individual characteristics each of most variable
description, whilst to fix their parentage is a difficult
matter.

*Nymphea lucida, growth vigorous, flowers a soft rose-
pink tinged with red, foliage very orna-
mental and distinct ; a fine variety.

ellistana,' growth vigorous, flowers of the
richest carmine with age, much paler
when first expanded; a choice and
desirable Lily.

eae gloriosa, the finest of all the Marliacean

hybrids ; beyond a doubt a grand variety
and most distinct ; colour rich carmine-

”»

red; every well-developed flower has
five sepals ; this is not seen in any other,
and is most noticeable. It causes the
flowers to expand more widely.

dj ignea, exceedingly rich in colour, growth
moderate.

1 This should properly come under the Laydekeri section, which in its
buds it resembles, though in vigour it is a great advance.

WATER-LILIES 169

Nymphea sanguinea, darker than the preceding and

of smaller growth; a Lily that will
become more popular.

Robinsont, quite distinct, dark in colour
with a slight tinge of yellow; a good
grower.

Seignourett has the yellow or orange more
defined than in the preceding; not free
in flowering.

_ andreana, a purplish red, with handsome

foliage.

Aurora; in the way of WV. Sezgnouretz, not
so good on the whole.

pulva ; in the way of WV. Sezgnoureti, not so
good on the whole.

pygmea Helvola, the smallest of any of the
many fine hybrids raised by M. Latour-
Marliac. It is a perfect gem; colour a
pale yellow, flowers stellate in shape,
foliage small and beautifully mottled
with bronze-red ; it flowers freely. Well
suited to shallow basins, or tubs, or
aquaria; six inches of water over the
crowns being ample.

NV. Arc-en-ciel and J. atro-sanguinea are two of the
more recent of M. Latour-Marliac’s developments.
So also is JV. colossea, already enumerated. In England
these have not yet been fairly tested. V.James Gurney,
NV. William Doogue, and WV. William Falconer ; these
American varieties or hybrids appear to have a close

170 WALL AND WATER GARDENS

affinity to those raised by M. Latour-Marliac. The
two first-named are after the VV. Marliacea group, and
the latter after VV. odorata ; this is the darkest I have
yet flowered of any of the hybrids. The parentage of
these three Lilies I do not recollect to have seen given
or even suggested. Another American variety, James
Brydon, I have not yet seen.

NV. Frebeli was described by J. F. H. in The Garden
recently, and a coloured plate was given. This also
is not yet well enough known to speak of its merits.
It has a good reputation on the Continent.

As a rule the depth of water required for any variety
may be gauged by the length of the petiole or leaf-
stalk, Those with long petioles will be well adapted
for deep water, such, for instance, as the varieties
marked *.

INDEX

Ace@na species, 33

Acantholimon, 24, 26

Acanthus, 25, 27

Achillea umbellata, 7, 8, 22, 87,
gI

Acorus Calamus, 112

Adoxa, 41

AS thionema, 20, 26

Alders, 70, 110, 118, 154

Alhambra, 26

Alpine garden, 100 ; Alpine pas-
tures, 103

Alyssum, 9, 17, 26, 34, 61

Amaryllis Belladonna, 25, 27

Andromeda, 81, 83

Androsace species, 32, 94

Anemone fulgens, 27; A. apen-
NINA, 32, 35

Anomatheca, 25, 27

Antennaria, 87, 92

Aponogeton, 116, 130, 137

Arabis, 17, 26, 35, 59, 61, 91

Architect and gardener, 54

Architecture not to be smoth-
ered, 54

Arenaria balearica, 8, 14, 92

Arnebia echiotdes, 21

Arrow-head, 113

Artemisia nana, 7, 8, 22; A.
sericea, 7

Arundo, 80, 152

Asarum, 86

Asplenium species, 38 ; A. Filix-
Jemina, 73

Aubrietia, 2, 26, 35, 59, 92

Auriculas, 32

Ayrshire Roses, 6

Azalea, 81

BACKHOUSE, Messrs., rock-gar-
den, 96

Balsam, 69

Bamboo, 81, 152

Bathing pool, 126

Bay (Laurus nobilis), 46

Bell-flower, Ivy-leaved, 75

Berberis, 4, 5, 22, 27

Bignonia radicans, 48, 53

Birches, 67, 71, 109, 119

Bloodroot, 123

Bog Asphodel (Varthecium), 77,
123

Bog-garden, 121, 128; plants
for, 133

Boggy ground, 71, 121

Bog Myrtle, 77

Bog Pimpernel, 75

Box, 48

Brambles, 4, 48, 78

Bridge with wild overgrowth,
57

Briers, 5

Brooms, 83

Buckbean, 114

172

Bulbous plants for rock-garden,
98

Bulrush, 111

Bur-reed, 69, 112

Butomus, 112, 130

Butterbur, 71, 114, 152

Butterwort, 75, 131

CABBAGE Rose, 46

Calla palustris, 77, 137

Caltha (Marsh Marigold), 137

Campanula, 26, 34, 62; C. zso-
phylla, 8,9, 19 ; C. garganica,
8, .0,:183.C. fragizs, 8).015 Ce
muralis, 8,9,19; C. Rainer,
19; C. petrea, 19; C. Elatine,
19; C. elatinoides, 19; C. ex-
cisa, 19; C. macrorhiza, 19; C.
mirabilis, 19 ; C. pyramidalis,
55; Campanulas, 56 ; C. pudl/a,
93; C. barbata, 131

Candleberry Gale, 77

Cannas, 147

Caper, 23

Capri, Island of, 19

Cardamine, 35, 131

Carpenteria, 53

Cassinia, 22, 27

Catmint, 22

Cementing steps, 13

Cerastium, 2,7, 9, 17, 26, 59, 92

Ceterach, 14

Chair-Rush, 112

Chetlanthes, 14

Chetranthus alpinus, 91

Chimonanthus, 48

Choisya, 46, 53

Cistus, 4, 8, 9, 22,25, 27, 83, 85,
149

Clematis Vitalba, 43; C. Flam-
mula, 46, 147; C. montana,
46; Clematis, 142

INDEX

Cob@a scandens, 147

Columbine, 41

Comptonia asplenifolia, 77

Conifers by water, 110

Construction of dry walling, 11
and onward ; of rock-garden,
10

Cornus, 131

Correvon, Monsieur, of Geneva,
100

Corydalis, 2, 8, 34, 37; 93

Cotoneaster, 4, 86

Cotton Grass, 77

Cotyledon umbilicus, 37

Cow-parsnep, 71, 157

Crinum, 25, 27, 147

Criticism on a terraced garden,
51 and onward

Cyperus Sedge, 112

Cypress, 44, 138

Cypripedium spectabile, 74, 131

Cystopleris, 14

DAFFODILS, 78, 124

Dangerous tank edges, 137

Daphne pontica, 83

Delphinium, 50

Dentaria, 124

Desmodium pendulifiorum, 5

Dianthus, 96

Dianthus fragrans, 3, 9, 18;
D. cesius, 18; D. plumarius,
18 ; D. superbus, 18

Difficult Alpines, 105

Dog-Tooth Violets, 102

Draba, 96

Drosera rotundifolia, 77

Dryas octopetala, 73

Dry walling, 1, 11 and onward

Edraianthus, 24
Epigea repens, 73, 131

INDEX

Epipactis palustris and Jlati-
folia, 73

Equisetum Telmateia, 80, 112,
158

Erinus, 2, 3, 8, 14, 35

Eriophorum, 77

Eryngium alpinum, 87

Erythrontum, 123

Eulalia, 152

Euphorbia, 87

Eurybtia, 26, 93

FERNS IN WALLS, 2, 4, 8, 14,
28, 37, 55, 575 58

Ferns by water, 68, 73, 137; in
rock-garden, 93, 103

Fir, Scotch, 67, 71

Foot of the wall, 25, 37

Forget-me-not, Water, 66, 131,
137

Flower-border, 50

Forest pool, 65

Formal garden, 141

Forsythia suspensa, 5

Foxgloves, 36, 94, 124, 158

Fritillaries, 78

Fuchsia, 23, 26

Funkias, 147

Galax aphylla, 76, 131

Garden paved passage, 59

Garden walls, 42

Gargano, 18

Garrya elliptica, 48

Gaultheria procumbens, 75, 81,
83; G. Shallon, 75, 93

Gentiana Pneumonanthe, 77 ;
species, 102, 123, 131

Geology in the rock-garden, 12,
100; geological lists of Al-
pines, 106, 107

Geranium lucidum, 37

e735

Goodyera repens, 76

Grass of Parnassus, 74

Grey foliage, plants of, 7

Griselinia, 25, 27

Grouping plants in walls, 61;
in rock-garden, 97

Guelder Rose, 47, 121

Gunneras, 80, 115, 152, 156

Gynerium (Pampas Grass), 44,
152

Gypsophila, 17, 26

Haberlea, 32

FTalesia, 121

Harts-tongue Fern, 38, 147

Heaths, 77, 86

Helianthemum, 22, 27, 40

Heracleum, 71, 80, 157

Hillside gardens, 1

Hollies, 67

Honeysuckle, Japan, 4

FHlottonia, 115

Houseleek, 33, 40

Hutchinsia, 34

Hypericum, 4,26; H. corts, 22 ;
HZ. repens, 22

Hyssop, 22, 26

IPERIS, 26, 96

lberis sempervirens, 20; I. odo-
rata, 24; J. correefolia, 20;
I. gibraltarica, 20; 1. tenore-
ana, 20; I. Pruitz, 20

Ilex, 126, 148

Impatiens Noli-me-tangere, 69

Tonopsidium acaule, 35

Tris stylosa, 25; I. fetidisstma,
41; Iris, 48, 50; 7. devigaia,
=Kempferi, 68, 115, 156;
I SP seua-Gcorus, °°70, 57 3
I. cristata, 93; species, 96,
157; J. stbirica, 116

174

Ivy, 25 ; Caenwood var., 46 ; on
steps, 56

JAPAN, Iris in, 69

Jardin Alpin d’Acclimatation,
Geneva, 100

Jasione montana, 40

Jasmine, 47, 48

Jerusalem Sage, 5

Judging the merit of a plant, 17

KALMIA, 81
Kew, rock-garden at, 95
Knot-weeds (Polygonum), 152

LADY-FERN, 68, 73, I10, 122,
147

Lakes and large ponds, 109

Laurustinus, 46

Lavender, 4, 5, 7, 9, 22, 26, 85

Lavender-cotton, 22

Lawn spaces, unbroken, 63 and
onward

Ledums, 81, 83

Leucanthemum lacustre, 117

Lilies, 48, 50, 148

Lily of the Valley, 124

Lily tank in a formal garden,
141

Linnea, 72

Linaria, 35, 37, 92, 96

Liparts, 75

Lithospermum Gastoni, 19; L.
gramintfolium, 19; L. ros-
marinifolium, 19; L. pros-
tratum, 19, 91; L. purpuro
ceruleum, 39

London Pride, 93

Loosestrife, 70

Lysimachia nemorum, 41; vul-
garis, 70, 115

Lythrum, 71, 115

INDEX

MAGNOLIA, 50

Maidenhair Fern, 58

Malaxis, 75

Marliac, Monsieur B. L., 161

Marsh Helleborine, 73

Marsh Marigold (Caltha), 71,
112, 115, 137, 154

Marsh Rattle, 77

Meconopsis cambrica, 37

Meadow-Sweet, 68

Menyanthes, 114

Menziesia, 83, 86

Mesembryanthemum vars., 23,
26

Mignonette, wild, 40

Mimutlus, 57, 69, 123, 137

Mixtures, desirable, 93, 96

Mitchella repens, 75

Moneywort, 34

Moorish gardens, 138

Miihlenbeckia, 86

Mulleins, 36

Myrica, 81

Narthecium, 77

Native plants in the rock-wall,
36

Nelumbium, 137

Nepeta, 22, 27

Nephrodium dilatatum 73, 131 ;
Thelipteris, 131

Nierembergia, 131

Nymphea, 117, 130

Olearia Haastit, 27

Onoclea sensibilis, 74, 131
Opuntia, 9, 95

Orchis, 124

Ovontium, 77

Osiers, 120

Osmunda regalis, 68, 73, 110
Othonnopsis, 7, 22, 29

INDEX

Overgrowth, watching and re-
straining, 55; advantageous,

57
Ozothammnus, 25, 27

Paonia, 47, 48, 49

Pancratium tillyricum, 25

Parnassia palustris, 74

Parochetus communis, 25, 27

Partridge Berry, 76

Paths, 5 ; in wild ground, 155

Pedicularis, 77

Pennywort, wall, 8, 37

Periwinkle, 4

Pernettya, 83

Petasites, 114

Petrocallis, 24, 27

Phlomis fruticosa, 5, 7, 9, 22

Phlox setacea, 21, 27, 92; P.
stellaria, 21, 27

Phragmites, 111

Phyteuma, 24, 26

Pinks in wall, 2, 9, 26, 39, 59,
61; Pinks in border, 50;
Pinks in rock-garden, 87

Pinguicula, 85

Plan of rock-garden, 88

Plumbago Larpenta, 25, 27

Polypody, 38, 62

Pompeii, 139

Pondeteria, 116, 130, 137

Pond-head, 155

Poplars, 110, 118, 120

Poppy, Welsh, 37, 57 ; Oriental,
158

Primula species, 32, 96, 122,
123, 131 ; Primroses, 41

Pyrola, 72

Pyrus japonica, 4, 5

QUINCES, 120

175

RAMBLING growths, 44

Rambling Rose, 43

Ramming, 12

Ramondia, 32

Ranunculus aquatilis, 70, 112,
154

Reeds, 80, 111, 122, 152

Renaissance, Italian, gardens
of, 142

keseda lutea, 40

Rhexta, 131

Rhodochiton, 48, 147

Rhododendrons, Alpine, 83, 93,
103, 104

Rhododendrons by water, 117,
118

Rock-garden, .10, 80; plan of,
88

Rock Pinks, 7, 17

Rock-Rose (Helianthemum), 22,
27, 40

Rocky pools, 125

Rodgersia podophylla, 80

Rosa ductda, 5. Oy 22a Dread.
arvense, 5,9; Lk. wichuriana,
5, 9, 22, 27; Roses, Ayrshire,
6, 47; R. sempervirens, 5,9;
RR. spinostssima, 27

Rose, Cabbage, 46; Damask, 46;
Cottage Maid, 46; Maiden’s
Blush, 46; old H. P. vars,
47; China, 49

Rosemary, 5, 7; 9, 27, 47, 49; 85

Roses, hanging over walls, 5,
152

Round islands in ponds, 118

Rubus species, 48

Ruta-muraria, 14

Sagittaria, 113
Sandwort, 2, 3, 8
Sanguinaria, 123

176

Santolina, 9, 22, 26

Saponaria, 17, 24, 26

Sarracenia purpurea, 74

Savin, 4, 86

Saxifrage,2)'3F io, “15/41, 00;
131; S. feltata, 80, 152; S.
longifolia, 31

Scabiosa Plterocephala, 22, 26

Scilla, 124

Seats in bog-garden, 132, 133

Sedum glaucum, 21 ; S. Lydium,
21; S. dasyphyllum, 21; S.
pulchellum, 21; S. Kamts-
chaticum, 21; S. cweruleum,
24; S. Ewersii,21 ; S. specta-
bile, 21; S. spurium, 21

Seeds in wall-joints, 2, 4

Sedge, 122, 154, 158

Sempervivum, 33, 96

Shady rock-wall, 28

Sheep’s Scabious, 40

Shorita, 131

Shrubby plants for wall-top and
foot, 21

Shrubs for top of rock-garden,
87, 98

Stbthorpia, 75, 131

Szlene, 17, 24, 26, 93

Skimmia, 83

Sloping banks of turf, 3

Suiulacina, 33, 124

Snapdragon, 2, 9, 33, 61

Snowdrops, 82, 102

Snowdrop tree, 121

Snowflakes, 82, 102, 114

Solanum jasminotdes, 147

Solomon’s Seal, 124

Southern exposure, 6

Spanish Gorse, 83

Sparganium, 69, 112

Sphagnum, 73, 131

Spirea species, 68, 158

INDEX

Spruce Fir, 109, 117, 119, 120

Stachys corsica, 21, 26

Stepping stones in boggy ground,
154

Steps, I, 13, 151; overgrown,
55) 56

Stitchwort (S¢ellaria), 36

St. John’s-wort, 4

Stob@a, 24, 27

Stonecrops, 2, 21, 26, 40, 43, 96

Stratiotes, 114

Stream garden, 66 and onward

Succulents, 9, 23, 26, 28

Swamp-pools, 72 and onward

Sweet Fern, 77

Sweet Herbs, 22

Sweet Sedge, 112

Symphyandra species, 34

TANKS in garden design, 135

Tansy, 115

Teucrium Scorodonia, 40

Terrace, double, 43

Terraces of dry walling, 1 and .
onward ; wall-top, 21

Thalictrum, 117, 157

Thelypleris, 74

‘| Thrift, 2, 9, 38, 62, 86

Thyme at back of garden seat,
133

Toadflax, 37, 42

Trientalis, 73

Trillium, 123

| Tritomas, 152

Tubs in bog-garden, 128
Turf edges, 49; slopes, 149

Uvularia, 124

Vaccinium, 81
Valerian, 38, 43, 61
Veratrum, 157

PN DE XS

Verbascum, 36

Veronica hulkeana, 25, 27; V.
Traverst, 85

Viburnum Opulus, 110, 121

Villarsia, 113, 154

Vines, 48, 59

Violets, 59

Wahlenbergia, 24, 26

Waldsteinia, 34

Wallflowers, 2, 9, 38, 43, 61

_ Wall joints, planting in, 42, 59

Walls, 45

Wall-top, 21

Water Buttercup, 70, 112

Water-Crowfoot, 70, 112, 154

Water Dock, 111

Water Elder, 110, 121

Water Lilies, 117, 136, 160; in
tank, 141, 145, 149; list of,
164

tL

Water margins, 154; plants for
159

Water plants, list of, 126

Water rushing, 150

Water Violet, 115

Willows, 71, 110, 119

Wisley, water plants at, 156

Wood Anemone, 65

Wood Pimpernel, 41

Water Plantain, 111

Wood Sage, 40

Woodsta, 14

Wood Sorrel, 41, 65

Xerophyllum asphodeloides, 76

Yew, 48, 53
Yuccas, 6, 9, 44, 53, 87

Zephyranthes carinata, 25, 27

THE END

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