OREGON

WALNUTS

SOUTHERN PACIFIC

THE
COLLEGE OP

x^'

EDITED BY

CHIEF DIVISION OFHORTICULTURE

OREGON AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE

CORVALLIS, OREGON

PU BLISH E D BY

GENERAL PASSENGER DEPARTMENT
SOUTHERN PACIFIC

PORTLAND, OREGON

PFPT,

Main

Atria.

Oregon Walnuts

HpHIS book is com-
-** piled for the purpose
of giving accurate infor-
mation on Walnut Cul-
ture in Western Oregon.

tj To the prospective wal-
nut grower, it will be
found valuable in locat-
ing and establishing the
orchard and in selecting
varieties of trees.

<JTo the present owner
of a walnut orchard it
will be found valuable
for the technical analysis
of grafting, pruning,
cultivating the orchard
and harvesting the crop.

Walnut Culture in Western and
Southern Oregon

The culture of English walnuts is increasing to such an
extent it bids fair to become one of the principal horticultural
activities^of the state. Walnuts have been grown in the state
now for about twenty-five years, there being one commercial
orchard of fifteen acres, twenty-one years old, and numerous
scattered trees throughout the state of about the same age.
The industry, however, during these twenty-five years has had
rather a checkered career. Many of the early trees were of
types that were not suited to our climatic conditions. Many
trees of the California soft shell, or Santa Barbara, type were
planted. Nuts were often bought at grocery stores and planted
by interested parties. While many of these trees grew, rela-
tively few of them ever bore commercial crops of fruit, at least
not regularly.

About ten years ago, walnut planting assumed almost boom
proportions and, consequently, many of the trees planted were

Rolling land best for walnut growing.

OREGON WALNUTS

Walnut trees in their prime.

of the tender, inferior grades, and the winter of nineteen eight
fortunately destroyed a large percentage of such trees. With
the introduction of superior French strains, the industry became
firmly established, until now we have thousands of acres just
coming into bearing, producing nuts that are selling as high
as thirty- five cents per pound. A list of some of the larger
plantings is given in the back of this bulletin.

The present consumption of the English walnut in the
United States is only about 50,000,000 pounds — this being only
about one-half pound for each person in our great country.
Of these nuts, 22,026,524 pounds are raised in the United States
and during the past few years an average of about 30,000,000
pounds has been imported. Of these 22,026,524 pounds that
are produced in this country, California is producing 21,432,266
pounds, Mississippi 66,492 pounds, Oregon 79,060 pounds, and
all other states 448,706 pounds. There are at present in the
United States 914,270 bearing English walnut trees, while
806,413 are still too young to bear. This is according to the
United States census of 1910. While Oregon has a very small
percentage of bearing walnut trees, it has, nevertheless, about
one-fourth of the young trees of the entire United States that
have not reached bearing age.

The most encouraging fact concerning English walnuts is

OREGON WALNUTS

that the consumption of this food product in the United States
during the past ten years has practically doubled. Ten years
ago we were raising somewhat over 10,000,000 pounds — the last
census gives us 22,026,524 pounds. In 1902 we were importing
over 12,000,000 pounds, while in 1912 we were importing from
26,000,000 to 37,000,000 pounds. It has been said by some
that we will have less and less foreign competition. I hardly
know upon what facts such statements are based, since the
imports have increased, if anything, faster than the home pro-
duction. It would not be safe for walnut men to feel that they
have no competition. The pecan, filbert and almond all enter
into some competition against the English walnut. However,
it should be a very easy matter to encourage the American peo-
ple to use more nuts in their diet. In fact, they are already
doing that without any special effort on our part.

The present outlook for the expansion of the industry is
very promising. Undoubtedly the American public will consume
many times the present output and very little concern need be
given by the present producer for the marketing of this product.
In a few years, however, this sub-
ject will need special attention.

Choosing the Orchard.

Location : The climate of west-
ern and southern Oregon is ideal
for the production of the English
walnut. It more nearly approx-
imates the climate of Europe and
Asia, where these nuts are pro-
duced abundantly, than any
other section of the United
States. In other words we have
very few extremes of temper-
ature as regards either heat or
cold. The moisture supply is
generally ample. Where the Protecting the grafts in paper
improved French strains are bags until the scions sprout.

OREGON WALNUTS

A well developed walnut tree.

planted, very little damage will result from frost. In choos-
ing the orchard, however, one should bear in mind that good air
drainage is essential and that if the trees are planted in frost
pockets there will be damage during certain years, despite the
fact that the French strains bloom so late. In some of the moun-
tain sections, there is a possibility that the extreme rains, both
in the spring and fall, might have an influence on the yields.
The walnut should not be planted where there are extremes of
heat in summer. This tends to cause a burning of the nuts
and will often result in a poorly filled nut.

Soil: The walnut is a deep rooted, heavy feeding plant and
should, therefore, be planted in deep, rich, moisture-retaining
soils. There are many types of soil found in western and south-
ern Oregon, and undoubtedly we will find as time goes on that
certain soils that have heretofore been held as not suitable for
walnut culture will be found to be producing commercial crops.
The red hills and river bottoms, at the present time, are the
principal producers of this crop, and where these soils are deep,

OREGON WALNUTS 7

the trees are making magnificent growth. While few walnuts
are grown as yet on the heavier clays, there is a possibility that
if the American Black nut is used, for a root, there will be a
possibility of producing heavy commercial crops.

The surface soil should be friable and easily tilled, and one
which can be formed easily into a good heavy dust mulch for
retaining moisture. The sub-soils should be of such a nature
that roots can penetrate and get plenty of food and moisture.
Avoid rock, coarse gravel soils and extremely heavy clays. The
deeper the soil is, the better. It is a waste of money to plant
walnuts on soils which are only from two to four feet in depth.
While young trees will thrive on such soils, you cannot hope to
produce large, healthy, heavy producing trees under such con-
ditions.

Soil drainage is a question that should be looked into very
carefully, as the average root used will not stand an excess of
moisture. The gently rolling locations are always preferable
to flat areas, as the former are more apt to give good soil and
air drainage.

The scions have
sprouted well.

Bags removed, showing
sprouted scions.

8

OREGON WALNUTS

Propagation.
Sprouting of
Seed: There are
several methods
used in preparing
the seed for sprout-
ing. Some growers
have practiced
planting in the fall
in the open ground

in the nursery.
Franquette Walnuts „. ,

There are several

difficulties in this method. One is that the nuts do
not often germinate over-well. In fact, some of the types of
black walnuts may remain in the ground two years before they
germinate, and there is some danger of decay. However, where
it is desired to grow seedling English walnut trees, it is the
common practice of our nurseries to plant the nuts in open
ground in the nursery row in the fall.

Another danger to be watched out for is that of squirrels.
If given the opportunity, they may purloin the entire patch.

Other growers have practiced stratifying the seed in boxes
in sand. When this is done the nuts are often stratified in the
fall. Care must be taken, however, that the sand does not
become too wet, for if it does, the nuts will mold, and there is
danger of decay. On the other hand, if the sand is allowed to
become too dry, the nuts will not germinate. One of the most
satisfactory methods is to wait until late winter, or early spring,
say in February. Choose the
warm, sunny side of some build-
ing. Lay down a few 2x4's and
upon these put boards. Spread
on the boards a few inches of
moist sand — then spread the nuts
on this moist sand and cover

them with additional sand. If

Bagging of trees in nursery

Sufficient sandy SOll IS not to be as soon as they are grafted.

OREGON WALNUTS

Walnut trees, eight years of age.

had, the nuts can be covered with wet burlap or blankets.
Care should be taken that if extremely heavy rains come,
some boards are laid over the bed to shed the water and
keep the soil from washing away. The success of germina-
tion by this method has been phenomenal in many cases, espe-
cially where California Black seed has been used.

In the early spring these nuts will germinate and send out
good vigorous sprouts. Before transplanting in the open sand
one should choose good rich ground for the nursery. This
should be plowed and harrowed very thoroughly, so that it con-
tains no lumps. The ground should then be furrowed and the
young sprout walnuts carefully transplanted in rows. Care
should be taken in drawing the dirt up around the transplant

not to break the sprout. One

needs to be very careful during
the first few cultivations not to
injure the young shoots, as they
are about as tender as asparagus
shoots, and if the ground is
lumpy there is danger of the

lumps being thrown up against
Low method of heading trees °

and good system of staking, them and injuring the shoots,

10

OREGON WALNUTS

OREGON WALNUTS 11

thus making them worthless. If the ground is rich and well
prepared, the young trees will soon start into vigorous growth,
and they should be given the best of tillage and hand hoeing,
so as to keep them growing. It will be advisable, in many
cases, to stake the young trees to keep them from becoming
injured.

If the trees are given good care, the large majority of them
should make sufficient growth in one season so that they can
be successfully grafted the following spring.

In grafting English walnuts, it is imperative that one choose
good scion wood. This can generally be found on all trees pro-
ducing vigorous one-year-old wood. Some of the two-year-old
wood will suffice. The tip growth is undesirable, as it is too
soft and spongy. The wood which makes the best scion should
not contain over one-half its diameter of pith. Scion stocks
can be cut a foot or more in length. These can be stratified in
moist sand or, preferably, can be put in cold storage plants,
where they are stored on ice. They can be kept there at least
until needed. In fact, scions in this way could be kept for some
of the very late English walnut trees which do not come into
activity until June. Care must be exercised to keep the buds
absolutely dormant, as a sprouted scion is worthless.

Grafting the Walnut Trees: There are many large black
walnut trees scattered over the state which should be top-worked
to the better strains of English walnuts. In four years these
trees could be made to be extremely productive.

Walnut grafting is exceedingly difficult and I would sug-
gest that if you have very much grafting to do, either in the
nursery rows, or in top-working of trees, you either work with
someone who is considered an expert in this class of work, or
employ someone who has demonstrated that he can do the work
successfully. The most successful work in this state has been
done by Mr. George G. Payne, of Campbell, California. The
methods used, however, are outlined in the following descrip-
tion, taken from directions given by him :

12

OREGON WALNUTS

"For scions select round wood with buds not too far apart.
Use upright or horizontal wood and never dropping wood.
Avoid terminal buds. Spurs on young trees a foot or less in
length make good wood.

"When possible, leave scion wood on trees until two or three
weeks before they show signs of starting, which would be about
April first to tenth. Cut in lengths from twelve to fourteen
inches and stratify carefully in sand.

"Before grafting, wait until buds on stock show signs of
bursting. If placed in position before the sap starts they may
dry out. One can start in earlier on English walnuts than on
Blacks, but Blacks will permit a longer grafting season.

"Bright, extra sharp tools are necessary. Good knives are
the IXL, the Henckel, budding knife, large size; Joseph
Rogers' iron-handled grafting knife; and a shoemaker's knife
is very desirable. For a splitting knife use Rogers' butcher
knives. A splitting maul like an old-fashioned potato masher
is good, dimensions 11x41/2x3. Hickory or hardwood wedges,

six inches in length, of different
widths, are desirable for split-
ting. Have the edges a little
thinner than the center. Have a
sharp saw. Use oil stones, em-
eries, etc., to keep tools always
sharp.

"Never make a concave cut on
scion. Choose a piece of wood
having two eyes of straight
growth. Cut off 2^/2 inches be-
low bud, with slanting cut. Turn
lower bud upward. Begin with
knife on opposite or a little lower
than bud. Cut just through the
bark to wood. Continue down-

i u- u ward, very gradually cutting
A system of heading back which . . .

should be avoided. Instead of deeper, until two-thirds of cut is
l!mbsaVe at l6aSt ^ completed. The remaining one-

OREGON WALNUTS

13

A well handled orchard.

third is cut considerably more abrupt. Turn the scion
over and treat the other side the same. Have scion
a little thicker on the outside. After scion is cut, prepare stock.
Saw of f straight, then take butcher's knife and split very lightly
through center, then bear heavily on handle of knife and split
the opposite side of stock. Now drive in wedge. One must
now carefully fit stock to scion. It is generally necessary to cut
out a little wood on each side of split in such a way that when
wedge is released the scion is caught firmly and perfectly. The
scion should be inserted as with other grafts, so as to bring
growing layers together. Next, stuff newspaper down in the
chink between the two scions. Now wax. Cover entire cut
surface. It is fatal to leave it exposed. It is sometimes neces-
sary to rewax three or four times. If scion buds are slightly
covered with wax it will do no harm. After waxing, tie an
inflated paper bag over graft, leaving an inch or two for scions
to grow.

Nursery Grafting.

"The work is done at the same season as top-working. When
possible, avoid doing the grafting in the early morning hours, or
following a heavy rain, for at such times considerable bleeding
may take place.

14 OREGON WALNUTS

Young walnut orchard with cherry fillers.

"Pick away the dirt from around the tree. With a sharp band
shear, cut off the tree about two inches above the ground. In
making the cut always have the blade down. Then with a
shoemaker's knife make a vertical cut from an inch to an inch
and one-half in length, the cut terminating at the stub of the
stock. The cut is very shallow at the lower end and ends deeply
at the center. Now make a cut at right angles to the first. The
result will be that you will take out a right-angled piece from
the stock, the cut being broad and deep at the top and shallow
and drawn to a point at the lower end.

"A scion is so cut as to fit this right-angled notch in the
stock very closely. First cut the scion off sharply, then make a
cut at right angles to this, which will be from an inch to an inch
and one-half in length. Draw it in slightly toward the point.
If the scion and stock do not fit absolutely smooth, make new
cuts until you get a true, smooth connection. Now take some
coarse twine or yarn and wrap the two together securely,
finally tying with a half hitch. This being done, wax over very
carefully, probably at least two or three times, as per directions
given for cleft grafting. Use paper bags and treat as in pre-
vious method."

Mr. Fred Groner of Hillsboro, Oregon, who has done a

OREGON WALNUTS

15

Top-working the American Black to the English

great deal of successful walnut grafting, states that he is able to
get a larger percentage where the nursery trees for grafting are
cut off at the point where the wood begins to get soft. He has
also found that a beveled knife is superior for the work. How-
ever, since the mushroom root rot is making its appearance, it
may be better to follow some of the California methods and
graft the trees well above the surface of the ground. We would
also caution the walnut grafters to cut their scions so that there
is a long surface of contact.

The grafting wax that is being used very successfully is the
following :

Resin, 5 pounds ; finely pulverized charcoal, % pound ; bees-
wax, 1 pound ; raw linseed oil, 1 gill.

After melting the beeswax and resin over a fire that is not
too hot, add the charcoal, stirring steadily, then add the oil.
After moulding the bricks, it should be placed in greased pans.
As one needs to use the wax it may be broken off in lumps and
melted in suitable dishes. It should be in liquid form when
applied.

Establishing the Orchard.

In establishing the walnut orchard, the first point to study
carefully is the choosing of the trees. There are two types of

16

OREGON WALNUTS

Walnut tree with a nice spread
but headed a foot too high

trees being planted in the North-
west at the present time — name-
ly, the seedling and the grafted
trees. The grafted trees are gain-
ing in popularity very rapidly.
It is hard to find men who have
tried both seedling and grafted
trees, who do not favor the graft-
ed ones. I have found only a few

men who have tried the grafted trees, who are in favor of dis-
carding them and taking up the seedlings, while a great many
men now growing both grafted and seedlings say that if they
were planting again they certainly would plant grafted types
exclusively.

The statement is often made that the seedling orchards are
worthless. This statement is altogether too strong. There is
no question, in my mind, that some of the seedling orchards that
have the right type of seedlings will prove to be very attractive
investments, while, on the other hand, the proper type of grafted
trees is without doubt the best investment to make.

The advantages of the grafted tree are that you will have
a more uniform orchard, the trees will come into bearing
younger, and the product is very much more uniform than can
be expected from the seedling orchards. Many of the seedling
trees bloom or come to foliage too late to procure good crops.
Others bloom so early that they are invariably injured by the
frost. Walnuts will bloom over a period extending from early

April until the middle of July.
The very early trees are general-
ly caught by frost, and it is
doubtful if trees that come out as
late as June 15 will mature their
crop. Trees coming out from the
^*^ first to the middle of May are

Low headed type of Walnut Tree. ver-v desirable. Some trees are too
Very satisfactory if tied well, weak physically and are valueless.

OREGON WALNUTS

17

Young walnut orchard with prune fillers and garden truck.

It must not be assumed that there is no fluctuation in
grafted trees, as grafted walnut orchards will probably vary
to about the same extent that the apple, pear, plum or orange
will vary. On the other hand, there are many seedling orchards
that will not produce over sixty per cent of good trees.

Many of the planters of walnuts five or six years ago
attempted to purchase grafted trees in large numbers, but found
it impossible to do so. The trees were not for sale at any price.
Again, some of the early grafted trees were very disappointing.
They were imported French trees that had been grown in cold
frames and flower pots and were stunted, inferior trees. The
introduction of such stock did very much to prejudice some
of our early planters against the grafted trees.

As regards whether to plant seedlings or grafted trees,

very careful judgment must be
used. Where seedling trees are
planted, the nut should be chosen
from an isolated tree or an or-
chard where one variety is grown.
If nuts are chosen from mixed
orchards, 'where cross pollina-
A Well Headed Walnut Tree tion has taken place, one must

18

OREGON WALNUTS

expect variation, for,
as the old saying is,
"Blood will tell." The
more crosses you have,
the more variations one
must naturally expect.
In former days, much
was said concerning the
generation of trees. The
first generation consist-
ed of trees from nuts
which were taken from
the selected trees. The
second generation were
the trees which resulted
from these nuts. It was
formerly believed by
some people that, ow-
ing to climatic and soil
conditions of our state,
these second genera-
tion trees would pro-
duce nuts superior to
the mother trees, and
superior to any trees
which would follow
from mixed pollination.
The walnut, however,
follows the same gen-
eral rules as do other
plants ; namely, that
when you have seed-
lings, you may be fortunate enough to secure a few superior
to either parent in some respects, but a large majority of the
nuts will be inferior to either parent. It is only by selecting
these isolated seeds that have not been cross pollinated, from a

Varieties of Oregon grown walnuts.
(1) Mayette (2) Meylan

(3) Parisienne (4) Parry

(5) Chaberto (6) Franquette

OREGON WALNUTS

19

hardy French strain,
such as the Franquette,
that one can expect to
secure good seedling
stock.

Where grafted trees
are preferred, one
should certainly know
something about the
pedigree of the trees,
for unless the roots are
vigorous and the scions
selected from trees of
known value, the graft-
ed trees will probably
be worthless.

Some men are com-
b i n i n g seedling and
grafted orchards in this
way. Seedling orchards
are first planted and
then the percentage
which are inferior are
grafted over to selected
scions. Many of these
trees in this way can be
made to become very
productive trees, but
with others the vitality
is so poor that it does
not pay to attempt to

do much with them. Eventually we are going to find out what
are the four or five best varieties or strains for this section of
the country, and as soon as that is determined, a large majority
of our trees will be grafted to these best strains.

There are three types of stock being used in the Northwest

Nuts at top and bottom are result of seedlings
from grafting of pointed Franquette and
Round Mayette in center.

20 OREGONWALNUTS

at the present time — the Northern California Black, the Amer-
ican Black, and the English. There are many other types that
possibly have been used in a limited way, such as the Southern
California Black and various hybrids. Undoubtedly, we are
going to use more than one stock as time goes on, but at present
the Northern California Black stock is the favorite and most
of the orchards where this stock has been used produce vigorous
young trees. It will take many years to demonstrate the best
stock to use under our varied conditions.

The advantages of the Northern California Black stock
are that you get a large percentage of germination of nuts, the
trees are vigorous growers, and tend to be fairly uniform. The
union with the young scion seems to be satisfactory. The
American Black has been tried in certain localities with success.
It is not as rapid a grower, and it is harder to germinate the
seed. Possibly some of the hybrid trees will be found valuable.

Age of Tree.

In purchasing trees one should try to secure good, strong,
straight one-year-old trees. It is very easy to get such trees
from six to eight feet in height, which show plenty of vigor.

Setting of Trees — Planting the Orchard.

Before planting the orchard, the ground should be very
thoroughly plowed and harrowed and put into good tilth condi-
tion. The trees should be set from forty to sixty feet apart.
When trees are set at a distance as great as sixty feet, it should
be only where the soil is extremely rich, or where one plans to
intercrop or use fillers extensively. With many soils, a distance
of forty feet is ample, while fifty feet is a distance preferred
by many growers. The hole should be dug sufficiently wide
to accommodate the roots nicely, and deep enough to allow the
filling in of some good top soil and the setting of the tree from
two to four inches deeper than it was in the nursery row. When
setting, all broken or decayed roots should be cut off with a
good sharp knife. Where the tap root has been severed, a
good straight cut should be made. Formerly it was argued
that walnuts would not grow if the tap root was injured. This
has been proved to be a fallacy, as the thousands of acres of

OREGON WALNUTS

21

c

c/3

H

•3

I

OREGON WALNUTS

grafted transplanted trees in the Northwest now testify. I
would treat the roots of the walnuts very much the same as
those of any fruit tree. While planting can be done in the fall
in many parts of the western and southern parts of Oregon,
probably late winter and early spring would, on the whole, be
the most desirable. Some men have advocated that, instead
of planting trees, nuts be planted in the field where the orchard
is to be developed; that three to five nuts be planted in holes
where the tree is desired and all but the strongest of these seed-
lings be discarded. I have never seen a good orchard developed
in this way and doubt its practicability. It certainly is more
expensive and harder to take care of young seedlings scattered
over a forty-acre field, than it would be to have them in compact
rows in the nursery, where they could have the best of care.

There are various systems of planting the orchard. Where
the filler system is to be used, the setting of the trees by what is
known as the quincunx system is perhaps the best. In this
system the trees are set in fives, the permanent plantings being
in the form of squares or rectangles, and the filler being the
tree which is planted in the center of the square. About 75 per
cent more trees can be planted by this system than by the square
or rectangular. The square or rectangular system is the best
where one wishes to intercrop extensively; or where it is the
aim of the orchardists to grow truck crops, berries or similar
crops, this system will prove the more satisfactory. It does
not give as many trees to the acre, neither are the trees equally
distant, but it does allow for tillage better than any other
system.

The last system is known as the hexagonal. In this system
the trees are set, as you might say, in circles of six, with a tree
in the center of each circle. The trees are all equally distant, as
they are planted the radius of the circle apart. This system does
not allow for tillage or intercropping as well as the two first
systems.

There are three systems of pruning the young trees. In the
first system, I wish to describe, the trees are cut back when they
are planted to two or three buds. These buds are allowed to

OREGON WALNUTS

23

Tree headed too high.

force out shoots in the spring
and after they have made a suf-
ficient growth to determine
which one of the three is the best,
the other two are removed. The
one remaining shoot is then tied
securely to a stake, so that it will
not be broken or injured in any
way. In the second spring this
tree is re-headed to a height of
about forty-eight inches and the
heading formed so as to have the
main branches spaced as widely
apart as possible. This system
is a fairly easy one for the aver-
age man to handle.

The second method is to head

the trees much the same as our apple trees ; say, twenty-five to

thirty inches in height and the main head is formed the first

summer. With this system, how-
ever, extremely good staking and

tying must be followed, or the

head will not be satisfactory.

This system is a superior one

for the expert horticulturist.
The third system is to train

the trees to whip for three or

four years, allowing no laterals

to grow until that time. This

was formerly the most popular

system in the Northwest, but is

gradually going out as it makes

the trees too high-headed, and

makes it very difficult to stake

and tie the main scaffold

branches satisfactorily. English

ittl

headed too high

24

OREGON WALNUTS

•' H^f

i

Well kept orchard with prune trees as fillers.

All walnut trees need thorough staking. A good strong
post should be set that will stand at least seven feet out of the
ground. During the first two or three years of the tree's life, it
will be necessary to do considerable tying in order to prevent

drooping over too much. Tying
with broad strips of cloth, bed
ticking, or similar material, is
preferable and each individual
main scaffold branch should be
tied to the stake. Care should
be taken not to tie the branches
so close to the stake as to cause
them to grow too upright.

The tillage of young walnut
orchards is very much the same
as that practiced in our young
apple and pear orchards. Much
plowing and harrowing should
be practiced in early spring and

American Black Walnut Tree the ground placed in such condi-
topped with English. Poor .. ,, , ., , i j u TJ

practice to use so old a tree, tion that it can catch and hold

OREGON WALNUTS

25

Trees planted too close together, crowding tops

the spring rains. At frequent intervals the ground should be
harrowed, so that no weeds are allowed to grow and the ground
prevented from packing and cracking. These frequent shallow
harrowings should follow at short intervals until such time as
the young trees have made satisfactory growth, which should
normally be from the middle of July to the middle of August.
In our older orchards, it will probably be necessary to continue
tillage later in the fall, because if we do not hold the moisture,
the tree's vitality may be affected, or there may be a tendency
for the nuts not to fill well. Where trees do not start well the
first year or two, it may pay to give each tree a couple of buck-
ets of water some time during early summer. The trees should
be hoed soon after such watering.

Where irrigation is practiced, it should be followed as is
generally done with the fruit trees. One should take care not
to have the water come in contact with the bodies of the young
trees. Pools of water should not be allowed to stand close
around the trees for any length of time. In irrigating, care
should be taken to get plenty of water down in the sub-soils to
encourage deep rooting of the trees. Irrigation should not,
however, take the place of tillage. The two must go hand in
hand if the best results are to be secured. Where one is depen-

26 OREGONWALNUTS

dent to a large extent upon artificial water, the sub-soil should
be examined and never allowed to get so dry that when a por-
tion of the sub-soil is pressed tightly in the hand, and the fingers
removed, the soil naturally falls apart. After each irrigation, a
great deal of tillage should follow.

As yet most of our orchards in the Northwest are so young
that artificial fertilization has never been resorted to to any
great extent. Where trees are lacking in vigor, or where the
land planted to orchard has been in grain for many years, it
will often be found advisable to add stable compost where it can
be obtained cheap and in large quantities. One cannot afford
to pay much for such fertilizer, however, nor will it pay to haul
it far. I doubt if it will pay the average grower to try the
commercial fertilizers. Experiment stations, from time to
time, are trying out such plant foods. It is only by careful
experiments that one can demonstrate the real value of any
element. Cover crops often can be sources of material aid to
the orchard. These should be planted the latter part of August
or very early in September. Under average conditions, the
seed should be drilled in at the rate of about forty pounds of
forage, or Oregon vetch, to about ten to twelve pounds of oats
or rye. It is essential that the seed be drilled in and be planted
early.

Inter-Cropping and Use of Fillers.

Since the walnut trees are planted so far apart — forty or
fifty feet — there is a considerable waste of ground the first ten
years of the orchard's life. The question which confronts every
walnut grower is how he can best utilize this area between the
trees, so as to bring in some cash return. As far as soil and
care of the trees is concerned, the best type of crops to grow is
truck garden crops, such as beans, peas, squash, melons ; small
fruits, such as strawberries, currants, and gooseberries; and it
would even be possible to use some cane fruits, such as raspber-
ries, and some men have tried such crops as loganberries. Strips
of hay, especially vetch hay, consisting of a mixture of vetch
and oats, can be used to advantage by many growers, since in
this way sufficient forage can be raised for the horses that are

OREGON WALNUTS

27

Well headed tree. Properly
pruned would become ideal.

necessary to carry on the orchard
work; but where strips of hay or
grain are grown between the
trees, it is advisable to leave
clean tilled strips on either side;
otherwise, the trees will become
stunted.

It will be well for some of the
walnut growers in western and
southern Oregon to consider the
possibility of handling hogs in
connection with the orchards.
Such crops as cow-horn turnips,
Aberdeen turnips, rape and
vetch, can be planted by the mid-
dle of July and should make a
most excellent winter feed. It
would not be advisable to keep a
large number of hogs on heavy,
poorly drained soils. On the
average rolling soils, this system
is practiced and is being used by
a number of growers.

The excess stock of hogs is
generally turned off in early
spring and this is a time when
prices are generally quite satis-
factory. If the orchardist has
some spare land that he can raise
grain on, so as to obtain large
quantities of wheat screenings,
it may be found possible to pro-
duce cheap pork. It is not ad-
visable, under ordinary condi-
tions, to grow large quantities
Of grain among young trees. Tree with weak crotches account
0 J branches all coming out at one

It is only orchards that are point.

28

OREGON WALNUTS

J

Walnut Tree with a good spread.

growing too vigorously that can stand such treatment safely.

Some men prefer using fillers to inter-cropping. The ideal
filler for the young walnut is the Italian prune, a small, com-
pact tree which will enable the orchardist to get a number of
paying crops before it becomes necessary to take out the trees.
After the walnut begins to get large, however, it will crowd the
prunes, and it will only be a question of time before the vitality
of the prune trees becomes so low that it will be advisable to
take them out.

Walnut culture lends itself to general farming. As the
trees require very little spraying and not much unusual atten-
tion, the average farmer should be able to meet with a fair
degree of success with this crop. Walnut culture also combines
itself very nicely with certain crop combinations. For example,
berries, prunes and walnuts would make a most excellent com-
bination. The berries — such as black caps, or loganberries,
could be evaporated. Later the prunes could be handled in the
same evaporator. Finally, the nuts could be dried in the same

OREGON WALNUTS

29

building. Thus one would be securing better returns for the
investment in the evaporator. A certain amount of general
farming and handling of chickens and hogs would lend itself
nicely to this above named combination. With the family cow
and a good garden, such a combination should very largely
meet the requirements of the family table and, at the same time,
bring in a splendid cash income.

Where irrigation is possible, it would be advisable to at-
tempt to grow such crops as clover after the orchard has come
into bearing, watering it sufficiently to produce both clover and
walnuts abundantly. The clover could either be turned into
hay or could be pastured over by live stock, such as sheep, for
example.

The walnut should be more adopted as a home tree. It
makes a most excellent shade tree for the yard, and can be
developed into a satisfactory street tree; but where this is at-
tempted, I would advise the growth of first, the American
Black, or California Black, and later the top-working of such
trees to selected English strains. Thousands of trees in the
state have been so top-worked and are becoming very valuable.

Where walnuts are used as home
or street trees, care should be
taken not to crowd them very
much with such trees as maples,
oaks, etc., as invariably the wal-
nut does not seem to thrive as
well under such conditions as
when it has plenty of room.

Pruning.

We have already treated the
subject of pruning at the time of
setting the trees. After the trees
have made their first year's
growth, one should choose the
branches which are to form
the framework of the trees.
Walnuts on the trees. Four or five branches should be

30

OREGON WALNUTS

Prince Dryers, Dundee, Oregon.

chosen and it is advisable to have these spaced as far apart as
practicable, and I would suggest heading them back in about
the same way as one would head back the apple, pear, and prune
trees, cutting the strongest branches back the most and the
weakest ones the least. In this way we will constantly encour-
age the weaker branches and bring the trees to a better balance.

In forming the scaffold branches of your tree, try to choose
branches that will not form a poor angle with the trunk. Such
branches are very apt to split off by the end of the second year.

It will be advisable to give the trees annual pruning. The
general tendency of many of the English walnuts is to grow
decidedly one-sided, one or two branches growing much more
vigorously than the rest. These very strong branches should
be decidedly checked — cut back hard, so as to force out the
weaker and smaller branches. By this persistent heading back
the first two or three years, you will force out abundant laterals
which will give you plenty of wood to choose from in building
up a strong tree, one having plenty of bearing surface. If the
trees are allowed to go unchecked, they will not only become
one-sided, but you will have long naked branches with very few
bearing laterals. The amount of wood that can be cut from
any tree must vary according to the growth it has secured.

OREGON WALNUTS

31

32 OREGON WALNUTS

Some branches will be shortened to eight or twelve inches, while
with others it will be advisable to let them grow from twelve
to twenty inches, according to the balance of the tree. It will
be necessary each year to thin out a few of the undesirable
branches that form bad angles, or have a tendency to grow
inward.

After the trees come to bearing, about the only pruning
necessary will be to thin out the trees where they tend to become
too dense, and occasionally suppress some few of the leaders
that tend to become too rangy. It will also be found advisable
during the first few years to shorten back or remove some of the
branches that droop to the extent of interfering with tillage.
The great tendency of the walnut is to droop, and no matter
how well the trees are trained, one will always have to remove a
certain number of drooping branches.

Pruning should be done preferably after the danger of
serious freezing is over and before the sap starts to flowing
strongly in the spring. For western Oregon, February is gen-
erally a very suitable month for walnut pruning.

Diseases.

There are a number of diseases that attack the English wal-
nut. The most serious of these is the walnut blight, known
scientifically as Bacteriosis. This is a bacterial disease and is
probably carried by insects. Its first appearance is noted in
early spring. On the leaves it starts in the form of black spots
which enlarge and generally cause some malformation of the
leaves, those attacked often bending towards the area affected.
Black patches will appear on the outer bark, often causing a
drying up of the young twigs and fruit spurs, killing them back
to the main branches. The damage to the tree, however, at
least in Oregon, is, as a rule, not serious ; especially is this true
of the better French strains. The greater damage comes from
the attack on the nuts. Small, black, irregular spots which
spread quite rapidly appear on the surface of the nut. When
these appear soon after the young nuts are formed, they will
generally cause a large dropping of the fruit. Those nuts
which do not drop often have their meats ruined by black decay.

OREGONWALNUTS 33

Young walnut orchard with strawberries between rows

Where the attack appears later in the season it will cause por-
tions of the hull to dry, blacken and shrivel, and may cause some
premature dropping of the nuts near the harvesting period, and
even though it may not destroy the meats, it often makes the
nuts unsalable, as it tends to discolor the shells. The disease
varies according to climatic conditions, being much worse some
seasons than others. The early blooming varieties are gener-
ally more attacked than the later blooming ones. This is espe-
cially true under California conditions.

There is no known remedy other than cutting out and de-
stroying the affected parts. A recent survey which the author
made revealed the fact that it seemed to be a general rule this
past year that the young walnut trees which were rather low in
vitality were the ones most seriously affected by this disease.

While the disease certain years has been quite bad on some
trees, nevertheless it is not of such a nature as to keep one from
entering the walnut industry. The best line of resistance to the
disease is in choosing fairly resistant strains, and giving the
trees good care.

The mushroom root rot, which attacks such fruits as apples
and pears, also attacks English walnuts. While it does not
seem to attack the American Black and California Black roots

34

OREGON WALNUTS

TREE PLANTING
Fig. 1. Not well planted. During
dry seasons nuts will not fill well, and
will be bitter.

Fig. 2. Ground dynamited before-
planting, roots go down to permanent-
moisture. Drouth and famine proof.

seriously, it is very serious on English roots, and even where
trees are grafted, if the union comes below the ground, it may
kill the tree at the point of union. On this account, on recently
cleared lands, it might be better to plant the trees with the
union exposed. The best known remedy is to scrape the dirt
away from the affected parts, clean off decayed portions, and
leave such portions exposed to the dry air for at least one
season.

Crown gall has been reported in a few instances, but has not
been found to such an extent as to be thought serious.

Shriveled meats is a problem which may have to be met.
This seems to be much more serious in California than in Ore-
gon. The shriveling, or drying up of the meats in the shell, may
result from a number of causes, such as poor pollination, too dry
soil, aphis attacks, or because the tree is so extremely late that
it does not have time to develop its fruit.

Insects.

About the only insects needing serious attention that so far
have appeared to attack our young walnuts are the San Jose
scale and the Aphis. Both of these pests are very easily con-
trolled and the same remedies that are used for our fruit trees
suffice to control these pests.

OREGON WALNUTS

35

WALNUT BLOSSOMS

Fig. 1, pistilate, or female flow-
er, comes at end of new growth ;
produces walnuts when properly
fertilized.

Fig. 2, staminate, or male flow-
er, commonly called catkin, comes
at end of last year's growth; pro-
duces pollen to fertilize the pis-
tillate.

Pollination.

Pollination is a problem that may need some attention. The
older grafted orchards of California where only one variety is
grown seem to bear quite satisfactorily. Young trees, how-
ever, do not set their fruit well. Often a tree from four to six
years of age will start from one hundred to three hundred nuts,
only to have a large number of them drop to the ground pre-
maturely. This is due to the fact that the young walnut trees
do not produce sufficient catkins and, therefore, do not have a
sufficient quantity of pollen. After the trees become older,
there seems to be less trouble from this source. With the young
Franquette trees it is especially noticeable that the catkins are
scarce the first few years, but by the time the trees reach the
period of heavy bearing, at seven years, there are generally
sufficient catkins to insure a good crop. With the Mayette, the
female blossoms sometimes appear before the male, while with
the Glady, they are both apt to appear together. Our experi-
ence with fruit has shown that it is better to have several vari-
eties in an orchard ; that a larger crop can generally be secured
by cross pollination. It would, therefore, seem wise for the wal-
nut grower to plant a few trees for pollination purposes, even
though the greater part of his orchard consists of a single variety.

36 OREGON WALNUTS

Harvesting and Marketing.

As soon as the nuts are ripe in the fall, the hulls generally
split and the nuts begin to drop. It will be necessary to make
three or four gatherings of the nuts at intervals of from three
to five days apart. The work can be so handled that it takes
about five days to make one picking, and then the crew can
start over the orchard the second time. During the first pick-
ing, it is unwise to shake the trees vigorously, as such shaking is
very apt to cause immature nuts to fall. Many nuts still have
their husks tightly sealed and they will drop if the tree is shaken
vigorously. Bamboo poles with hooks can be used to jar the
branches. Care must be taken, however, not to bruise or injure
the branches with the hooks.

At the second picking, it will be well to shake the trees some-
what, but no attempt should be made to remove all the nuts at
this time.

At the third picking, nearly all the remaining nuts should
be properly matured. However, in the seedling orchards there
is a wide period of maturity. In fact, a few trees never mature
their nuts properly.

Some of the growers have each picker carry two pails. In
one they place the culled nuts, and those to which the hull
strongly adheres. In the second, the well matured nuts, those
free from hulls. The two grades are kept separate in sacks as
they are brought to the washer.

Some growers have found that often those nuts which have
not shed their hulls will do so in a few days and make a prac-
tice of throwing them up near the trunk of the tree, gathering
them the second time. However, there will always be some nuts
that will never shed their hulls and are practically worthless for
commerce. It does not pay to try to pull the hulls off by hand,
as small portions are apt to stick to the nuts, and even though
the hull is removed, the nuts are apt to remain discolored. Such
nuts are also often poorly filled.

The nuts should not be allowed to remain in the sacks very
long because, in their damp condition, mold will start very
rapidly.

OREGON WALNUTS

37

DETAILS OF WALNUT CRAFTING

Some growers make a practice of picking one day and
washing and starting drying the next. In the early morning of
the second day the nuts are washed. This is done to remove
dirt, mold, fiber, or any foreign material. Some of the small
growers have used ordinary churns ; others have placed the nuts
in large wooden trays, which are dipped in troughs of water —
the trays being churned up and down in the water until the nuts

38 OREGON WALNUTS

are clean. Some men are using the prune dippers and washers
quite satisfactorily. It will be necessary, however, to use a
broom to help wash the nuts, and it is well to have a false bot-
tom in the water container. This will allow the fiber to settle
below the false bottom. The fiber is often quite plentiful—
from one to two boxes sometimes being secured from a ton of
nuts. Poor nuts can often be picked out as they are passing
through the machine.

It is well to start drying as soon as the nuts are washed and
a temperature of at least 70 degrees should be maintained. The
best temperature varies from 70 to 90 degrees. Below 70 de-
grees the mold will develop. Above 90 degrees, there is danger
of causing the seams to break — and there is the additional dan-
ger of breaking down the oil in the nuts, which will later cause
them to become rancid.

It will take two days and nights to dry the nuts thoroughly.
If they can be placed in the dryer in the early morning, they can
often be dried sufficiently the first day, so that it will be safe
to let the fire go out at night. If no night firing is done it will
take four or five days to dry the nuts.

The numerous prune dryers can be used for the drying of
nuts. However, if one were equipping a building especially for
handling walnuts, it would probably pay to introduce some of
the improved California machinery for washing and grading,
and the drying rooms should be built on the kiln type.

Occasionally nuts can be dried out of doors, but care should
be taken not to have them exposed to a temperature greater
than 90 degrees, and it will be necessary to cover them at night
on account of the excessive dampness in the fall of the year.

As soon as the nuts are dried, they should be placed in a
cool, dry place, where they will keep until ready for the market.

As yet very little bleaching of the nuts has been practiced in
Oregon. The trade has taken all nuts just as they have been
washed and dried and has paid the top price for them. It
would be well for us, indeed, to encourage this tendency. While
bleaching whitens the shells, it is a question as to whether it can
be done without causing the quality of the nuts to deteriorate.

OREGON WALNUTS

39

The result of proper care.

Where bleaching is to be done, the following is a solution used
in California:

6 pounds Bleaching Powder (Chlorate of Lime)
12 pounds Sal Soda
50 gallons Water.

First, the bleaching powder should be dissolved in a small
quantity of water — three or four gallons. Mixture should be
stirred until the powder is dissolved. In a separate container,
holding a few gallons of water, dissolve the Sal Soda. Mix the
two solutions and stir well, and allow it to stand until the Car-
bonate of Lime settles in the bottom. The clear liquid should
be drawn off and diluted with water so as to make fifty gallons.
The nuts are placed in dipping boxes, are immersed in the fluid,
and then one and one-fourth pounds of 50 per cent Sulphuric
Acid is added. The liquid is agitated by raising and lowering
the dipper. In from five to ten seconds the nuts should be suf-
ficiently bleached and should then be rinsed in clear water and
dried. There are mechanical contrivances for doing this work.
The same liquid can be used as long as it gives results. Occa-
sionally it is necessary to bleach the nuts more than once.

As soon as the nuts have been thoroughly dried, they should
be graded. Up to the present time, Oregon orchardists have

40 OREGON WALNUTS

been able to sell their nuts without grading, but as the crop in-
creases, grading should be established, and probably will be
demanded by the purchaser. Generally, at least two sizes are
made. First, those nuts which will not pass through a one-inch
mesh; and, second, those which will pass through a mesh not
larger than one inch and not smaller than three-fourths of an
inch.

There are mechanical contrivances for doing this grading.
Buyers will often crack one hundred nuts taken at random from
various sacks, and if about ninety per cent of these are well
selected, are of the proper color, and properly dried, they will
generally purchase them as first class nuts.

After the nuts have been graded, they should be stored until
marketed, and should be kept in a cool, dry place. For market-
ing they can be put up in the small cartons, or can be sacked in
gunny sacks holding about fifty pounds.

Variety.

The question of the best variety, or varieties, to plant is a
very important one, and it is the hardest question for us to at-
tempt to answer in Oregon at this time. This is due to the fact
that such a small percentage of our orchards have reached full
bearing.

We have not, as yet, secured the ideal nut, perhaps we never
will. We need one which should approach the following stand-
ard: of good size, tightly sealed, handsome color, and not too
rough. The shell should be just thick enough to stand han-
dling. The kernel should fill the shell thoroughly, should be
heavy and have a light pellicle. The variety should be a good
pollen producer, a vigorous grower, and free from blight.
These are just a fewr characteristics that come to my mind off-
hand. There are doubtless others. Possibly it is too much to
expect all in one nut. To use the familiar idiom, we should
certainly be getting everything in a nut shell.

At the present time, the Franquette seems to be the best nut
we have, and the Mayette is very promising. These two are the
most desirable varieties at the present time. Undoubtedly,
however, we should obtain one or two very favorable strains of

OREGON WALNUTS

41

42 OREGONWALNUTS

walnuts from the large number of seedlings that have been
planted. While the growers are planting the Franquette more
than all others combined, it is wise to plant a few other varieties
for pollination purposes. This is regardless of whether the
Franquette is self-fertile or not, since our work with tree fruits
points conclusively to the fact that we get better returns where
we provide for cross pollination. It would, therefore, seem
advisable for the grower to plant a few of the better varieties as
pollinators, even if not more than one tree to the acre were used.

Franquette.

This is a very old nut. It has been grown commercially for
over a hundred years. There are numerous strains, but the so-
called Vrooman is probably superior to most other strains. The
Franquette is a high quality nut, is a good vigorous tree and a
regular bearer. It does not bear heavily while very young, and
one should not expect big returns before the seventh year. At
the best, the variety is only a medium bearer.

While attacked with blight, it is seemingly as resistant as
any of the varieties grown.

Mayette.

The Mayette is a nut of superb quality. It is the Grenoble
nut of commerce, is of ideal commercial shape and quality. Its
greatest drawback in Oregon seems to be its light yielding
qualities in many cases and its questionable vigor. There is,
however, a possibility that we have not secured the best strains
as yet in this state. There are a few growers who speak very
highly of this variety. Mr. Forbes of Forest Grove thinks it a
better yielder and more vigorous than the Franquette. The
vigorous Sturgis tree is well known.

If one could be sure of getting the proper strains, the May-
ette ought to be a profitable nut to plant, but at present we ad-
vise conservative plantings.

There are numerous other nuts which might be tried on a
limited scale. The Kirk, which originated at Brownsville, is a
very heavy yielder, a good grower, and of good quality. Its
most serious drawback, however, is that quite a percentage of
the nuts are not tightly enough sealed.

OREGON WALNUTS

43

Where the walnuts are dried.

The Meylan is a nut of much promise — one of the hand-
somest nuts we produce and of good quality. It has not been
grown extensively, but indicates that it is rather a light bearer.

The Glady is a very large nut of good quality, but the mar-
ket does not favor large nuts with rough shells.

The Eureka, Concord, and Wiltz have been tried on a very
small scale. The first two so far have not been very promising,
but possibly will show up better when more trees come into
bearing.

There are many conflicting reports concerning the Wiltz,
but it is in the list which should be tried very sparingly. The
soft shell types, such as the Santa Barbara and the Santa Rose,
are not suited to the climatic conditions in Oregon. They are a
type of nuts which should be confined very largely to Southern
California.

The French strains are seemingly the only ones that it is
safe for us to plant extensively.

It is too early to be able to state just what the yields and
profits from English walnut growing in Oregon will be. We
know there is a tree in Northern California that has produced
712 pounds of nuts in a single year, and it is not uncommon to
hear of trees producing more than 200 pounds of nuts. These

44

OREGON WALNUTS

trees, however, are extremely
rare, and while there are many
orchards which, in a single year,
will produce a ton or more of
marketable nuts per acre, it will
be safer for the investor to plan
on a lower average; say, 1,000 or
1,200 pounds per acre. These nuts
will sell for from 13 to 30 cents
per pound, according to present
prices, the same depending upon
the grade of the product.

As to how much money can
be made from the business, it
will depend upon the initial price
of land, the acreage developed
and the relation of the walnut or-
chard to other fruits, or general
farm crops. The larger the acreage, other things being equal,
the cheaper the production. It would seem that with a combi-
nation, including reasonable land values, economic units, and
good business management, one ought to be able to expect a
return of $100.00 per acre. While, of course, many will surpass
this, others will not reach it. However, I would call the in-
vestor's attention to the fact that $100.00 clear profit means 10
per cent interest on a valuation of $1,000.00 per acre, and there
are very few investments in the world that would yield such a
figure.

Ripe English Walnuts
bursting the outer shell.

OREGONWALNUTS 45

List of Principal Walnut Orchards in Western Oregon

NAME

No. of Acres Grafted or
of Trees Seedlings

Matthews Planting Co.,

Portland, Ore 1610.87 Seedlings.

Skyline Orchard Co.,

Salem, Ore. . . . 203

Age of Trees
Years

200

65
56
50
49

Thos. Withycombe,
Portland, Ore

E. L. Dorn,

Monmouth, Ore 159

J. W. Jenkins,

Eugene, Ore 110

Fred Groner,

Hillsboro, Ore 100

Jesse A. Foster,

Independence, Ore. . . . 100
Dundee Fruit & Walnut

Co., Dundee, Ore 72

C. M. La Follett,

Amity, Ore

J. W. Quackenbush,

Eugene, Ore

Charles Trunk,

Dundee, Ore

Charles McNary,

Salem, Ore

F. C. Malpas,
Portland, Ore

R. Wenger,

Newberg, Ore

F. H. Walgamot,

Portland, Ore 35

M. C. Jenks,

Tangent, Ore 31

James E. Jenks,

Tangent, Ore 30

Thos. Schoolcraft,

Dilley, Ore 30

Geo. H. Brown,

New Era, Ore 30

Thos. Prince,

Dundee, Ore 27

H. L. Amoth,

Newberg, Ore 25

F. Brutmayer,

Grants Pass, Ore 25

Grafted

Seedlings

Seedlings 5

Seedlings

Grafted 1 to 7

Seedlings 6

Seedlings

Grafted 1 to 7

Grafted 2

Seedlings & Graf ted

Seedlings & Grafted 4, 5, 6

48V2 Seedlings & Grafted

40 Grafted 3-5

Grafted & Seedlings 7

Grafted & Seedlings 2 & 3

Budded . 4

Grafted & Seedlings 7

Grafted & Seedlings 8

Grafted & Seedlings

Grafted 4&5

Grafted.. 3

46

OREGON WALNUTS

NAME

No. of Acres Grafted or
of Trees Seedlings

Age of Trees
Years

Willamette Orchard Co.,

Corvallis, Ore 22V2 Grafted 6

P. O. Powell,

Monmouth, Ore 22 Seedlings 6

E. S. Greer,

Dundee, Ore 22 Seedlings

Geo. A. Dorris,

Springfield, Ore. 20 Seedlings

S. Ames,

Silverton, Ore 20 Grafted 1

L. L. Paget,

Gaston, Ore 18 Grafted

Helen V. Crawford,

Lebanon, Ore 16 Grafted

John C. Bortle,

Portland, Ore. . 15 2d Generation Seedlings. .

Leland Svarvernd,

Jefferson, Ore 15 Seedlings 21

S. Lindley,

Lebanon, Ore 15 Grafted

Dugald Campbell,

Eugene, Ore 14 Grafted 4

H. A. Kruse,

Sherwood, Ore 14 Grafted & Seedlings

Alice C. Boochers,

Lebanon, Ore 13 7

Dick Kiger,

Corvallis, Ore 13 Grafted 4

E. E. Foss,

Talent, Ore 13 Grafted 3 to 6

F. Tomek,

Grants Pass, Ore 13 Grafted

Wm. Light,

Dallas, Ore 12 11

W. K. Cardwell,

Roseburg, Ore 12 Grafted 4

F. B. Harlow,

Eugene, Ore lO1/^ Seedlings 16

Ira C. Powell,

Monmouth, Ore 10 Grafted & Seedlings 9

D. C. Hafley,

Grants Pass, Ore 10 Grafted 3

J. P. Young,

Sherwood, Ore 10 Seedlings 6-10

Will Young,

Sherwood, Ore 10 Seedlings 6-8

J\\ to K A R y
OF THE

Pub. NO. 93. 3-1-16.

For Information Regarding Railroad Fares, Train Service, Pullman Reserva-
tions, etc., Address Any of the Following:

GENERAL AGENTS OR REPRESENTATIVES.

Atlanta, Ga., 80 Peachtree St C. M. Evans, G. A.

Baltimore, Md., 29 W. Baltimore St W. B. Johnson, D. F. & P. A.

Birmingham, Ala., 309-314 Brown-Marx Bldg. C. M. Evans, Gen. Agt.

Boston, Mass., 12 Milk St J. H. Glynn, New England Agt.

Buffalo, N. Y., 11 E. Swan St S. C. Chiles, D. F. & P. A.

Chicago, 111., 55 W. Jackson Blvd. . W. G. Neimyer, G. A.

Cincinnati, Ohio, 5 E. Fourth St A. G. Little, G. A.

Denver, Colo., 313 Ry. Ex. Bldg H. F. Kern, G. A.

Detroit, Mich., 221 Majestic Bldg Edward A. Macon, G. A.

El Paso, Tex., 206 Oregon St W. C. McCormick, G. A., G. H. & S. A.

Houston, Tex J. H. R. Parsons, G. P. A. Sunset Central

Kansas City, Mo., 101 Bryant Bldg C. T. Collett, G. A.

Little Rock, Ark., 210 Gazette Bldg W. H. Wynne, C. A.

Minneapolis, Minn., 733 Metropolitan Life Bldg C. A. David, D. F. & P. A.

New Orleans, La Jos. Hellen, G. P. A. M. L. & T.

New York, N. Y., 39, 366, 1157 Broadway.. L. H. Nutting, Gen. East. Pass. Agt.

Oklahoma City, Okla,, 1200 Colcord Bldg T. H. Pointer, Com. Agt.

Philadelphia, Pa., 632 Chestnut St F. T. Brooks, D. P. & F. A.

Pittsburg, Pa., Park Bldg., 5th Ave. and Smithfield St. .G. G. Herring, Gen. Agt.

Reno, Nev., 108 E. Second St J. M. Fulton, A. G. F. & P. A.

Salt Lake City, Utah, 410 Walker Bank Bldg C. L. McFaul, D. F. & P. A.

Seattle, Wash., 720 Second Ave C. M. Andrews, D. F. & P. A.

St. Louis, Mo., 1002 Olive St Geo. B. Hild, Gen. Agt.

Tacoma, Wash., 1111 Pacific Ave C. M. Andrews, D. F. & P. A.

Tucson, Ariz H. C. Hallmark, A. G. F. & P. A.

Washington, D. C., 911 G. St. N. W.,

A. J. Poston, Gen. Agt., Washington-Sunset Route

T , , • , A j E. H. Miller, 1088 Flood Building, San Francisco

( J. T. Saunders, 314 Pacific Electric Building, Los Angeles

F. E. Batturs, General Passenger Agent San Francisco, Cal.

F. S. McGinnis, General Passenger Agent Los Angeles, Cal.

Jno. M. Scott, General Passenger Agent Portland, Ore.

Chas. S. Fee, Passenger Traffic Manager San Francisco, Cal.

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14 DAY USE

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LOAN DEPT.

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Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.

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OCT20'65-8|

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RETD OCT 2 9 198

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(F2336slO)476B

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY