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TESS eran HE He a Noe Mn eT PE TEED Beet hese id yht ed es hs ee ig a eee a ii el ae ht ee ht lye ae PT en tah. Cath Tal eee ree ee ee eres & Morel Ses ee oles % SS Wy bee 74
WIE kiwi"
h| IVA ox ea
Ss wh r- Uy,
WANDERINGS IN THE GREAT
FORESTS OF BORNEO
A NORTH BORNEAN RIVER.
VEGETATION ON
Fig. I.
WANDERINGS IN THE
GREAT FORESTS
OF BORNEO
TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES OF A NATURALIST
IN SARAWAK
By
ODOARDO BECCARI
Sc.D., F.L.M.S., C.M.Z.S. erc.
LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL
GARDEN
TRANSLATED BY
DR. ENRICO H. GIGLIOLI, C.M.Z.S., M.B.O.U.
Professor of Zoology in the University of Florence
AND REVISED AND EDITED BY
eed Ee! (GU MEE RIVVARD SssiViAT ave Dy iencs
Late Reader in Geography at the University of Cambridge
LONDON
ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE & CO Lrp
16 JAMES STREET HAYMARKET
1904
BUTLER & TANNER,
THE SELWOOD PRINTING WORKS,
FROME, AND LONDON.
TO
GIACOMO DORIA
MAECENAS OF NATURALISTS AND BEST OF FRIENDS,
HIS OLD TRAVELLING COMPANION
DEDICATES THIS VOLUME
IN MEMORY OF YOUTHFUL DAYS TOGETHER
IN BORNEO
Vil
EDITOR’S PREFACE anROEne
O naturalists generally, but especially to botanists, the author
of the following pages stands in no need of introduction.
His work in Borneo, which he here describes, was but the prelude to
many years of travel and exploration which have found expression,
in so far as regards their scientific results, in the pages of various
Societies’ publications, and the shelves and drawers of the great
museums of Italy and other countries—a monument alike to the
author’s botanical and zoological knowledge and _ his tireless zeal
as acollector. But while his name is thus familiar to the student of
science, notably to those who have made the fauna and flora of the
Eastern Archipelago a special subject of research, it is probably
less so to what an old translator once contemptuously described as
‘the mere English reader,’’ or—as it would nowadays be phrased—
the man in the street. To the latter it is only necessary to say that
no one is more fully qualified to act as guide to the great island
amidst whose primeval forests he wandered for so long. Whether
the scientific reader does or does not admit the validity of all
Dr. Beccari’s theories concerning species-formation, he cannot call
in question his abundant experience of the country, or his know-
ledge of the subjects of which he treats.
Dr. Beccari tells us that nearly forty years have passed away since
the days of which he writes, and deems an apology necessary for
so lengthy a hesitation. Certainly, in these days of “steam and
speed,” a forty-year-old description of a country might seem to a
hasty thinker something more than a little out of date. Were he
to reject the volume on these grounds, his conclusion would be an
erroneous one, and he would miss not a little. These vast primeval
groves, through which the author will guide him so pleasantly,
secure from mosquito’s bite and equatorial temperatures, are to-day
as they have been from almost the beginning of things. The
stupendous trees which form them have turned from seedling to
mould for zeons not to be numbered. Beneath the shade of their
predecessors the common ancestors of Man and Mayas may have
wandered ; and though change is touching even the unchanging East,
and there are such things as volcanoes to be reckoned with, the
end ofthe Bornean forest is not, as yet, within sight. It is with
nature-rather than man that Dr. Beccari deals, and nature needs
something more than a generation to get out of date. For those
; a 1X *
b>
WEE
EDITOR’S PREFACE
desirous of information concerning the political and social condition
of Sarawak at the present day the author has added a special
chapter.
A word is necessary regarding this English presentment of the
original Nelle Foreste di Borneo. It is not a literal translation of the
latter. Somewhat liberally paraphrased by Professor Giglioli,
it has at the same time undergone various emendations and
additions at the hands of the author, while some appendices
of more or less purely botanical interest have been omitted. For
the English rendering the present writer is in great measure
responsible. He has derived considerable enjoyment from the
book, for it recalled pleasant memories of his own experiences
as a wandering naturalist in Bornean jungles some twenty years
ago. What would he not have given for the companionship in his
journeys of so skilled a botanist and so enthusiastic a nature-lover
as the author of this volume !
F. H. H. GUILE MAD:
CAMBRIDGE, October 1904.
PREACH
N Borneo, the largest island of Malaysia, an English Rajah and
an English Ranee rule with pure autocracy a State which in
area equals England and Wales, and has its fleet and its army, yet
is without telegraphic communication with the rest of the world ;
possesses not only no railroads, but no roads, and is clothed by
dense and interminable forests in which wanders the orang-utan.
Here the natives live a primitive life, are in part still mere savages,
true man-hunters, who delight in hanging in their houses the
smoked skulls of their human victims, as a homage to imaginary
supernatural spirits and as a proof of their bravery. This is the
kingdom of Sarawak, which owes its origin to a man of great gifts
and a born lover of adventure, Mr., afterwards Rajah Sir James
Brooke, whose nephew and successor, Sir Charles Brooke, the
second European Rajah, now governs with a spirit of the truest
philanthropy, leading his subjects rapidly along the path of progress
towards civilisation. In this country, when it was in a much more
primitive and savage condition, and far less known to the world at
large, I landed in June 1865, in company with Giacomo Doria, with
the object of investigating its natural history. After the lapse of
so many years, I should certainly never have dreamt of putting
together the notes and itineraries of my juvenile travels, if a happy
chance had not led to my meeting in Florence, with the present
Ranee, H.H. Lady Brooke, who urged me to the task, assuring me
that the manners and customs of the people and the very localities
which I had visited are still to-day what they were then, and, indeed,
what they have been from times unknown. I may thus venture
to hope that it will not be thought that the publication of this book
has been too long delayed, the more so as the subjects to which I
paid special attention have, not a temporary, but a permanent
interest, and a large portion of the regions which I explored have
not been visited since by other naturalists. [I have also endeavoured,
in a separate chapter, to give the reader an idea—as exact as informa-
tion from authentic sources can render it—of the present condition
of Sarawak. While I am comforted by the hope that I may in no
way have to repent of having followed the advice of the charming
and gifted Queen of Sarawak, I cannot but feel in duty bound to
express to her my gratitude for the help and encouragement which
she has so freely given me, and for the permission she has granted
me of using and reproducing some of the fine photographs taken
by Her Highness during a recent visit to her dominions.
_ ODOARDO BECCARI.
xJ
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
THE SARAWAK RIVER—KUCHING—OUR HOUSE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
—First IMPRESSIONS IN THE ForEsST—A ROAD OVER TREE
TRUNKS—LEECHES—SIUL AND TUAN-KU ‘YASSIM—GIGANTIC
CICADAS—FIG-TREES AND BIRDS—AN EXPLORATION TOWARDS
MATTANG
CHAPTER IL
THE PEOPLE AT KUCHING—TRADES AND PROFESSIONS—THE CHINESE
—THE Martayvs OF BORNEO AND THEIR ORIGIN—ARABS AND
IsSLAMISM—HYBRIDISMS—-PROBABLE ABORIGINES IN BORNEO—
THE Martays A MONGREL RACE—THEIR PHYSICAL CHARACTERS
AND DRESs . d ; ; i : F i i ‘
CHAPTER: Di
THE FRUITS OF SARAWAK—JHE MANGOSTEEN AND ITS HABITAT—
ORIGIN OF CULTIVATED FRUITS—THE PINANG—OUR MENAGERIE
X1li
PAGE
17
CONDEINGS
—MonkEYS—THE NASALIS AND THE SHAPE OF THE NOSE IN MAN
—BIRDS IN CAaAPpTIVITY—SNAKES—FASCINATED FROGS—THE
FLYING LIZARD—FLYING ANIMALS—THE MAMMALS OF BORNEO
—BIGc GAME IN SARAWAK
CEIAP TER: TV
Miss1ons—BisHop MacDouGALL—UP THE BATANG-LUPAR—THE BORE
ON
—BANTENG—CHRISTIANISED DyAKS—NEPENTHES BICALCARATA—
SIMANGGAN—UNDUP—THE SEA-DYAKS
CHAPTER V
THE SERAMBO HiILL—LaNnp-Dyak VILLAGE AND HEAD-HOoUSE—
PININJAU—PORPHYRITIC HILLS—TRUE AND FALSE SWIFTS WITH
EpIBLE NESTS—WALLACE AND HIS NOCTURNAL MoTH-HUNTING
—GUNONG SKUNYET—VEGETATION OF THE SECONDARY FORESTS
—Dyak PaTHWAYS—LIMESTONE CLIFFS AND THEIR CAVES—THE
DurRIAN—NOTES ON THE Lanp Dyaxs : : ‘ :
CHAPTER VE
EXCURSION TO Mount MATTANG—Matay ADZES—CYNOGALE BENNETTI
—In SEARCH OF A ROAD TO THE SUMMIT—SOME METHODS OF SEED
DISPERSION—DIFFICULTIES IN GETTING BOTANICAL SPECIMENS—
How A ForREST CAN BE EXPLORED—My REASONS FOR CLIMBING
Matranc—Tue ‘“ UmBput’’—DwarFr PALMS—THIN RoOTANGS—
A LANKO—SUDDEN STORMS—IMPRESSIONS IN THE MATTANG
ForREST—-PHOSPHORESCENCE AND FIREFLIES—INSECTS, FLOWERS
AND LiGHT—Quop—FLYING-FOXES . : : . :
X1V
PAGE
25
40
33
66
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER VII
NEw YEAR’S Day IN KucHING—THE HouSE ON MaTTANG—ATAPS—
RIVERSIDE PLANTS ON THE SARAWAK RIVER—NIBONGS, NIPAS,
AND MANGROVES—AIR-ROOTS—SEEDS WHICH GERMINATE IN
Mi1p-AIR—SALAK AND ITS GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE—THE MENKA-
BANG PINANG—VALLOMBROSA—THE SuMMIT Os MATTANG—A
MONTH AT SINGAPORE—‘‘ WOODLANDS ’’—TIGERS—DORIA LEAVES
FOR EUROPE—RETURN TO MatTTANG—THE HAIR OF A CHINA-
WOMAN—A SINGULAR CEREMONY—I ARRANGE MY HousE—
METHOD OF DRYING PLANTS—HEIGHT OF SOME TREES—THE
BILIAN—FLOWERING OF TREES—THE DIPTEROCARPEE ON MATTANG
—PRIMITIVE FLORA . : . : : 7 : 5 Of)
CHAPTER VIII
THE FLORA OF THE SEA-SHORE—SANTUBONG PEAK—STRANGE PLANTS
—NEPENTHES VEITCHII—SATANG—TURTLES — EXCURSION TO
PoE—AUSTRAL CHARACTER OF THE VEGETATION—MORE NOTABLE
PLANTS — THE RAFFLESIA—GUNONG GADING— FRESHWATER
ALG 5 : : 5 5 ° d A A 5 ; 94
CHAPTER Ide
At Mattranc AGAIN—WILD BEES—AN UNINHABITED MOuUNTAIN—
ANTIQUITY OF THE ForEST—THE NAME MatTTanc—AN ABUND-
ANCE OF BEAUTIFUL PLANTS—IHE AGE OF TREES—RARE SAPRO-
PHYTES AND FUNGI IN THE ‘TROPICS—ADVENTITIOUS PLANTS
AROUND THE CHINAMEN’S HousES—THE VALLEY OF RoTancs—
Sprnous PLANTS—THE MoRMOLYCE—PITYRIASIS GYMNOCEPHALA
—HorRNBILLS—-ARGUS PHEASANT AND NOCTURNAL LEPIDOPTERA
—ALONE AT ‘ VALLOMBROSA’’—A STORM IN THE FOREST
—SHOOTING AT BUNTAL P : 5 5 : : TOO
XV
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER X
THE SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE SARAWAK RIVER—DIAMOND WASHING
—FOosSILS IN THE LIMESTONE—RAPIDS—RIVERSIDE PLANTS—
PANKALAN AMPAT—IN SEARCH OF CoAL—GUNONG Wa—
GREAT BamBoos—A Dyvak BANQUET—NEW KINDS OF FRUIT—
Roaps BEYOND THE FRONTIER—SENNA—OTHER FRUITS AND
CULTIVATED PLANTS—THERMAL SPRINGS—EXCURSIONS ON THE
West BRANCH OF THE SARAWAK RIVER—THE CAVE OF THE
WINpbs, ‘‘ LoBANG ANGIN ”’ : 5 ; j 4 3 5 UD
CEART ER Xa
ON THE BATANG LUPARIN SEARCH OF THE ORANG-UTAN—FROM KUCH-
ING TO LINGGA ON THE “ HEARTSEASE’’—PULO BURONG AND ITS
PaLMS—WeE ASCEND THE BATANG LUPAR—THE BURONG BUBUT
—THE IKAN Sumpit—A SINGULAR LoORANTHUS—MarRop—I
TAKE UP MY QUARTERS WITH CHINAMEN—EXPLORATIONS IN THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD—AN ALBINO WoMmMAN—My FIRST ORANG-
UTAN—RacES AMONGST THE PRIMATES—A LARGE SPECIMEN OF
“Mavas TJAPING ’’?—DISCONTENT AMONGST THE CHINAMEN—
A STRANGE CURE—BRIEF BUT SUCCESSFUL HUNT . 6 5 BY
CEEANP APE aap
BEAUTIFUL BUTTERFLIES—A CHINESE DINNER—THE GOOD AND THE
Evit oF OprlumMm—A YounGc Mayas—ExcuRSION TO THE TIANG
Layu—A Poisonous SNAKE—HILL PIGS—VEGETATION ON THE
SUMMIT OF TIANG LajJU—-PHOSPHORESCENCE IN THE FOREST—
Dyak PREJUDICES—THE BEAR AND THE ANTS—UPAS CLOTH
—NESTS OF BIRDS—ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL NOVELTIES—
WILD Bananas—A DISGUSTING FLOWER—THE IKAN TION—
Curious MEANS OF DEFENCE IN CERTAIN ANTS—THE CLULUT
AND Its NEST—THE SUPPOSED FEMALE OF Mayas TJAPING—A
FORTUNATE ORANG HUNT : : : 5 5; F Py i
XV1
tm
Oo
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER XIII
START FOR THE Kapuas LAKES—DYAK GALLANTRY—ON THE RIVER
KANTU—NATIVE TOBACCO MANUFACTURE—CARDING AND SPINNING
CoTTON—BraAss WORKERS—CURIOUS FISHERY—RAINS AND FLOODS
—TrRIAL BY WATER—ANCIENT JARS—FLOODED-ouT INSECTS—
Down THE KANTU AGAIN—NAVIGATION IN THE FOREST—IN THE
UMPANANG—STRANGE FISHES—BLACK WATER—ON THE LAKES—
—THE FORMATION OF COAL IN BORNEO—ON THE LAMPEI HILL
—LakEeE PLants—HunGry DoGs—JouRNEY BacK—BOTANICAL
RESULTS OF THE EXCURSION—DyYak NAMES—FRESHWATER ALG
—ORCHARD HERBS AT MARop—GoopD CaTTLE Foop . , LOO,
CHAPTER XIV
DIFFERENT SPECIES OF ORANG-UTAN—THEIR HABITAT, FOOD, ETC.
—PECULIARITIES AND Hasits—THE SUMATRAN ORANG—AN
ADAPTA-
ORANG F@tTUS—BOoRNEO AND THE PRECURSORS OF MAN
TION TO ENVIRONMENT—VARIABILITY OF SPECIES—A NEW THEORY
OF EVOLUTION—CONDITIONS NECESSARY FOR THE EVOLUTION OF
MAN AND THE ANTHROPOIDS—THE HUMANISATION OF THE ANTHRO-
POIDS—THE PLACE OF ORIGIN OF MAN : : : : 5 HOA
CHAPTER XV
THe Maray SAMPAN—EXCURSION TO TANJONG DATU—PULO SAMPA-
DIEN—THE DuGoNG—A PIRATE’s NEST—ASCENT OF TANJONG
Datu—LostT IN THE FoREST—Dyak DoGs—THE Domestic CAT
OF BORNEO—THE WESTERNMOST EXTREMITY OF BORNEO—MARINE
ALG#—THE RETURN JOURNEY—AN ENCHANTED HILL—AN
UNEXPECTED NOCTURNAL VISIT—DANGEROUS Foop—AT LUNDU—
My First ATTACK OF MALaRIA—RIVERS BETWEEN THE LUNDU
AND THE SARAWAK : : ; ; ; ; ; a 222
XVil
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER XVI
THE ROTANG YIELDING DRAGON’s BLOoOoD—SINGHI HILL—NOTABLE
PALMS AND THEIR Uses—-Across THE FOREST—ROTANG JER-
NANG—MANNER OF EXTRACTING DRAGON’S BLOOD—THE LIRAN—
SINGULAR FunGcI—A NiGcHtT Bivovuac—GIAntT Patm LEAVES—
Dyak METHODS OF MAKING FIRE—FISHING IN FOREST STREAMS
—VARIED USES OF BAMBOOS—MOBILITY OF THE TOES IN MALAYS
AND DyaKS—NOTES ON THE FISHES OF THE SARAWAK RIVER—
PoIsonous FISHES AND SINGING FisHES—A THIEF-DETECTING
FISH—FISHING WITH THE ‘‘ TUBA ”’
: ee 2 air
CHAPTER XVII
From LABUAN TO BRUNI ON THE Rajau’s GuNBoAT—My MAtLay
SERVANTS—LABUAN—Mr. H. Low—THE VEGETATION AT LABUAN
—PTILocERcUS Lowti—KiInAa BALU AND ITS NEPENTHES—BRUNI
—RECEPTION BY THE SULTAN—DECAY OF THE CITY—PARASITES
IN OYSTERS—ON THE NAME BoORNEO—CLIMATES OF BRUNI AND
LABUAN
5) BAD
CHAPTER XVIII
BIntTULU — THE MELLANAOS — FLOTSAM AND JETSAM — DETRITUS
FLOATING ON THE SEA—AppITIONS TO My CoLLEcTIONS—INDIA-
RUBBER-PRODUCING CREEPERS—NEW SEA PLANT—BUKETANS
AND PENNANS—IDOLS AND TOMBS OF THE MELLANAOS—ASCENT OF
THE BINTULU—THE TUBAO—TOMBS AND HOUSES OF THE KAYANS
—Bic TapanG PLanKs—A FeEstivat—Curious MusicaL INSTRU-
MENT—CAMPHOR AND THE METHODS OF EXTRACTING IT—FUNERAL
CEREMONIES—NOTES ON THE KavyANS—THE UPAS AND THE PRE-
PARATION OF THE PoIsoN—IRON ORE—NEW AND INTERESTING
PLants—A SINGULAR BrRD—-THE MINUANG—AFFLUENTS OF
THE BINTULU—A WILD DURIAN ‘ : : < 5 a BO)
XVill
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER XIX
SAGO MAKING AT BINTULU—-DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR—A PRIMI-
TIVE Boat—UP THE BINTULU RIVER—A DANGEROUS ADVENTURE
—WE ARE ForRcED TO RETURN—THE UNDANG-UNDANG—AN
AQUATIC FERN—THIRD DEPARTURE FOR THE INTERIOR—SUB-
AQUEOUS SOUNDS—A FORTUNATE MEETING—THE PAMALI ON THE
TuBpao—I ForcE THE Pass—WITH THE KAYANS—NOVEL KIND
oF IDOL—ASCENT OF THE TUBAO—DISEASES OF THE KAYANS—
INFLUENCE OF FLOODS ON PLANTS—THE BELLAGA HILLS—-ON
THE REJANG : ; : ‘ : ‘ 5 é on 287
CHAPTER XX
Down THE REJANG—THE KAYANS’ KNOWLEDGE OF THE INTERIOR—
STENOPHYLLISM AND ITS CAUSES—CAMPHOR TREES—TAMA DIAN
AND His ESTABLISHMENT—THE WILD SAGO PaLtmM—A KaAYAN
MASQUERADE—THE BANTENG AND OTHER BIG GAME—ON THE
RAPIDS—FRESHWATER ALG#® OF MARINE TyPE—SHARKS AND
RAys IN THE RIVER—THE TANJONG—IN THE Dyak CoUNTRY—THE
KETIBAS—KANoOwIT—A DISHONEST TRADER—AT SIBU—-THE
TRIBES OF THE REJANG—FROM SIBU TO THE SEA—-BLACK FLOWERS
—ADVENTURES WITH CROCODILES—NEW PaLMs—MOUTH OF THE
IGAN—MOSQUITOES AND OTHER INSECT PESTS—WILD ORANGES . 302
CHAPTER XXI
FROM THE REJANG TO THE BATANG LUPAR—A SPLENDID Dyak TYPE
—ORANG SKULL AMmMoNGST HUMAN TROPHIES—A Lucky GUN
ACCIDENT—ON THE Kanowit—The Ruppy MONKEY AND BEZOAR
STONES—ABNORMAL Dyaxs—A BIRD OF GOOD OMEN—POLING
—PICTURESQUE SCENERY—REMARKABLE AQUATIC PLANTS—A
GIANT TAPANG—MANUFACTURE OF SUMPITANS—WE BEGIN THE
OVERLAND JOURNEY—FLOWERS ON Roots—A PicmMy AROID—
EDIBLE STONES—RICE FIELDS—IN THE SAKARRANG VALLEY—
X1x
CONTENTS
PAGE
Tue MILK oF THE Upsas—DyAk COSMOGRAPHY—DOWN THE
SAKARRANG—A DyAk CouURT OF JUSTICE—TRAVEL CUSTOMS ON
THE SAKARRANG—ARRIVAL AT SIMANGGAN , ‘ : « 325
CHAPTER XXII
FROM THE BATANG LUPAR TO KUCHING — SIMANGGAN — A SWAMPY
ForEST—AT BANTING—ASCENT OF Mount LINGGA— DIFFICULTIES
BESET OUR JOURNEY—ASTRAY IN THE LAGOONS OF THE LINGGA—
Dyak INSTRUMENT FOR HUSKING RICE—AN EXPERIMENT WITH
Upas Poison—THE KuLit-LAWAN—AMONGST THE SABUYO DYAKS
—MaRSHES WITH PANDANI—FROM SUMUNDJANG TO SAMARAHAN
—LostT IN THE FOREST—END OF THE JOURNEY : : 7 4t
CHAPTER XXIII
SEASONAL ABNORMALITIES AND THEIR EFFECTS ON VEGETATION—AN
ABLE TRAPPER—I BECOME INVALIDED—EXCURSION TO THE AURI-
FEROUS DISTRICTS OF SARAWAK—-AT GROGO—FRESHWATER PEARL
OvsTERS—GOLD IN CAVES—THE Paku CAVE—THE END OF MY
PRoJECTS—I RETURN TO ITALY eae. 2 : : : ge B53
CHAPTER XXIV
SARAWAK TEN YEARS LATER—THE ‘‘ ASTANA,” RESIDENCE OF THE
RajaAH—A GLANCE AT THE HISTORY OF SARAWAK—RAJAH SIR
James BROOKE—THE CHINESE REBELLION—THE PRESENT RaAJAH
—EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES OF THE KINGDOM OF SARAWAK—OUR
PRESENT GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE OF THE INTERIOR OF BORNEO
—WILpD TrRIBES—ABSENCE OF NEGRITOS IN BORNEO—CANNIBALISM
AND HuMAN SACRIFICES—POPULATION OF SARAWAK—INTER-
xX
CONTENTS
PAGE
COURSE OF THE CHINESE WITH THE ISLAND—-ARCHHOLOGICAL
DISCOVERIES IN SARAWAK—STONE ADZES—ARCHAIC WRITING—
PRopDUCTS OF BORNEO—AGRICULTURE—PRESERVATION OF THE
FORESTS—EARTHQUAKES AND VOLCANIC PHENOMENA—MINERAL
WEALTH OF BORNEO—KUCHING—POLITICAL DIVISIONS OF SARA-
WAK—COMMERCE—REVENUE AND CUSTOMS—FORM OF GOVERN-
MENT—RELIGIONS AND MISSIONS—CONCLUSIONS . : 54
APPENDIX
THE BORNEAN FOREST ; : : A é : A o | RIS)
XX1
ILLUSTRATIONS
Vegetation on a North Bornean River 5 4 Frontispiece.
Kuching, Sarawak
View in the Gardens of the Astana, Kuching .
The Chinese Kampong in Kuching
Inche Bakar, Clerk at the Court of Justice (Malay), Datu Imaun,
Head of the Mosque at Kuching (of Arab origin). Hadji
Suden, Member of Council, Kuching (Partly Arab) .
Figure in Boro Budor Sculptures wearing Sloar
Figure in Boro Budor Sculptures wearing Sarong
Fruit of the Mangosteen, Garcinia Mangostana
The Sarawak River from the Astana Gardens
Head of Proboscis Monkey, Nasalis larvatus
Sea-Dyaks of the Seribas .
Girl of the Seribas Dyaks wearing the Silver S7szr .
Woman of the Seribas Dyaks weaving
Landing-Place of the Sea-Dyaks
Head-House or “ Panga”’ of the Land-Dyaks of Mungo Babi
Fruit of the Durian, Durio Zibetinus : , : ; 5
Land-Dyak, wearing Collar of Boars’ Tusks
Girl of the Land-Dyaks
Nipa Palms, Nipa fruticans
Leaves and Flowers of Palaquium Optimum
Flowers of Palaquium Optimum
Pitchers of Nepenthes Veitchit
XXil
PAGE
13
FIG.
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
30
37
38
39
40
4I
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
ILLUSTRATIONS
Rafflesia Tuan-Mude, Becc.
Flowering Branch of the Tapang, Abauria excelsa
Burmanniacee of the Mattang Forest
A Bamboo Bridge on the Upper Sarawak .
Land-Dyak Girls
Lobang Angin, Upper Sarawak .
“Tkan Sumpit ”’ or Sumpitan Fish, Toxodes jaculator .
Adult Male Mayas Tjaping 6
Head of Supposed Female of Mayas Tjaping
Profile of Supposed Female of Mayas Tjaping
Interior of Sea~-Dyaks’ House
Platform of Sea-Dyaks’ House .
Tajau Jars of the Dyaks .
Skull of Mayas Kassa
Skull of Mayas Tjaping
Orangs of the Mayas Kassa Race, on a Durian Tree
Bones of Left Hand and Left Foot of Orang
Foetus of Orang
Foetus of Orang, side view
Dyak Method of Obtaining Fire
The West African Oil Palm (Eleis Guiniensis) Growing in Labuan
Bruni
Leuconotis Elastica, Becc.
Orang-Kaya Tumanggong, Kayan Chief of the Barram River
Orang-Kaya Tumanggong (profile)
A Kinya; with Eyebrows and Eyelashes Extirpated .
A Kinya (same subject in profile)
Shooting Monkeys with the Sumpitan
Leaves of Bornean Stenophyllous Plants (under surface)
Tanjong Women Weaving Tambuks with Strips of Rotang
Sidoan Women of the Lower Rejang making Baskets, etc.
Dyak Method of Boring a Sumpitan .
Sea-Dyak of the Sakarrang
X X11
PAGE
103
108
ne
T2Y7,
129
133
140
I51
156
157
7A
173
178
196
197
201
203
206
208
235
245
251
261
271
273
276
277
279
299
315
319
331
339
ILLUSTRATIONS
FIG. ; PAGE
56 Sea-Dyaks of the Batang Lupar . : : : : - B48
57 Hand-mill for Husking Rice . : : . . : ye SVAS)
38 The Astana, Kuching . : j : : : : Be S5V//
59 Cultivation of Pepper in Sarawak . . 5 . 5 375
60 A Forest Clearing in North Borneo . Sy hers ; : 385
61 Mount Kina Balu, from the Tampassuk River . < : 5 bien
MAPS
I. SKETCH Map OF BORNEO . : 4 : A : . Lo face 17
2. Map oF PART OF SARAWAK : A : : : : me LAH
3. OUTLINE Map OF SARAWAK, SHOWING ROUTES FOLLOWED
BY THE AUTHOR . : : 3 : - . 5a) meeSY7:
XX1V
(Cale ial Jt
THE SARAWAK RIVER—KUCHING—OUR HOUSE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS—
First IMPRESSIONS IN THE FoREST—A ROAD OVER TREE TRUNKS—
LEECHES—SIUL AND TUAN-KU YASSIM—GIGANTIC CICADAS—FIG-TREES
AND BrrRDS—AN EXPLORATION TOWARDS MATTANG
N April 4th, 1865, [embarked at Southampton on the Delhi, one
of the fine steamers of the P.and O. Company, and twelve days *
later reached Alexandria, where I met my friend Doria, who came
from Genoa. The Suez Canal being then non-existent, we crossed
the Isthmus by rail to join the Indian mail steamer in the Red Sea.
After the usual stop at Aden, and a quiet voyage over the Indian
Ocean, we sighted the high land of Ceylon at dawn on May 5th, and
at 6 a.m. our vessel, the Candia, dropped anchor in the small and
not too well protected harbour of Point de Galle. The delight with
which I gazed at this outermost fringe of the continent of Asia—
perhaps more blessed by Nature than any other part of the world
I can hardly venture to describe. The surprise for the traveller
is all the greater from the fact that, as it were, at a single bound
he finds himself transported from Europe to the tropics. The
memory of the sweltering shores of the Red Sea, and the burnt and
arid crags of Aden, only serve to increase his admiration of the charms
of this island of perennial verdure.
In Ceylon we spent some delightful weeks which I need not
dwell upon here. As a naturalist, finding himself for the first time
in tropic lands, I was greatly disappointed to have to tear myself
away from this enchanted isle. But our aspirations were towards
more distant and less known lands, and on May 2oth we bade adieu
to the island, laden with ineffaceable memories of the delightful
days we passed on it. Touching at Penang, we arrived in due course
at Singapore, and on June 15th found ourselves on the Rainbow,
the Sarawak Government’s steamer, carrying the mails between
Singapore and Kuching, the capital of Rajah Brooke’s dominions.
On the morning of June 19th we were early on deck, for with
daylight the mountains of Borneo were sighted. The steamer
had slackened speed in order not to approach the coast before dawn.
As the sun rose, the imposing mass of Santubong appeared, like a
great fortress commanding the entrance to the Sarawak river.
I B
IN, BORNEAN BORD SES ic i
Westward, and not far off, rose the high mountains Gading and Poe,
and nearer still were the little islands Satang and Sampadien.
Beyond, the coast-line terminates with the bold outline of Tanjong
Datu, the frontier of the dominions of Rajah Brooke.!
The crests of Mattang command the land, which we rapidly -
approached, whilst the outlines of new hills and new mountains
appeared in the background as the morning mists faded away.
Santubong from the sea looks quite inaccessible; but few bare
patches of rock were to be seen on its flanks, for it is almost every-
where clothed with dense vegetation. Huge trees rose from the
fissures in its rocky sides, and on the enormous branches spreading
out from their gigantic trunks lanas climbed up everywhere and
hung down in thick festoons of verdure. Before us lay a narrow,
sandy beach, covered beyond the water-line with tall casuarinas.
The Sarawak river is about 450 yards wide at its mouth, but at
low tide it has a depth of hardly more than nineteen feet on the
bar. Once inside the river, the few huts of the Malay fishermen
forming the village of Santubong are visible on the mountain side.
The Santubong entrance to the river is preferable with fine
weather, whilst with bad weather it is easier to enter by the Mara-
tabas channel, where there is greater depth and good anchorage
for big ships.
Within the river mouth the scenery is at first highly picturesque,
but after passing some hills covered with dense forest this is the
case no longer. Both banks are covered down to the water’s edge
with the vegetation peculiar to these tropical estuaries. Most con-
spicuous are the mangroves (R/izophora), with bright, shining leaves
of an intense green, which reflect the sun’s rays on their polished
surfaces. Large tracts are entirely covered with the Nipa palm,
whose enormous leaves are very like those of the coconut. Beautiful
as they are, they become extremely monotonous after a time,
packed closely together and without variation either in appearance
or height. More elegant are the Nibong palms (Oncosperma filamen-
tosa), also very abundant, with straight and slender stems, crowned
with a tuft of delicate fronds finely divided and drooping in graceful
curves.
The navigation on the Sarawak river is not dangerous for small
ships; there are only two rocks to be avoided near the left bank
about two and a half miles below the city. From this point the
country, hitherto flat, gradually rises. Malay huts, partly hidden
by trees, also begin to appear ; but although we are very near Kuching,
the capital of Sarawak, distant seventeen miles from Santubong,
the course of the river is so tortuous that no signs of the town can
1 The following words, Tanjong (cape), Pulo (island), Gunong (mountain),
Bukit (hill), Sunged (river) and Danau (lake), should be noted as Malay geo-
graphical terms which of necessity will often occur in these pages.
2
‘IVMVUVS ‘ONTHOOUN—'e ‘SIP
—-
IN BORNEAN: FORESTS [ CHAP.
yet be seen. A last point is rounded and a few white houses with
wide roofs come into view, next the stores of the Borneo Company
near the water’s edge, the Chinese bazaar, anda small wooden fort
over which waves the Rajah’s flag. All this is on the right bank.
On the left are few houses, but conspicuous amongst them the Astana,
or palace of the Rajah, painted grey, and situated on a hill which
overlooks the river. Such was our first view of the capital of
Sarawak; but since our visit the town has increased very con-
siderably in size, and has now some 25,000 inhabitants.
We were expected at Kuching, and a Government officer boarded
the steamer at once with a kind invitation from the Tuan Muda
for us to land and take up our quarters with him. The then Tuan
Muda—for whom we had special letters of introduction from Sir
James Brooke, the first European Rajah of Sarawak, whose acquaint-
ance I had made in London before I started—is the present Rajah,
H.H. Sir Charles Brooke, nephew of Sir James.! He received us with
courteous and kind hospitality, which he extended to us during our
residence in Sarawak, and which I shall ever remember with the
sincerest gratitude.
We were lodged in a bungalow not far from the Astana or palace,
and only a few hundred yards from the primeval forest. The house
was constructed entirely of wood, somewhat in the style of Malay
dwellings, resting on piles some five or six feet above the ground,
thus enabling a man to walk beneath. It consisted of two big rooms,
with a wide verandah all round, from which we had an extensive
view of the town and its surroundings. The river which flowed
at our feet is here about 250 yards in width. Its waters are
turbid and completely influenced by the tides. The Malay
quarter (Kampong Malayu) is composed entirely of houses built
on piles which encroach upon the water along the muddy bank.
A couple of miles away, in the direction of the Mattang range,
rises the isolated conical hill known as Gunong Siul. Across the
stream, in a south-easterly direction, the green forest covers the
land as far as the eye can reach, with a distant border formed by
rugged mountains. Not a village nor even an isolated hut was to
be seen.
Such was the country which was to be the field of our explora-
tions. Nothing better could be wished for by a naturalist—a wild
and virgin country untouched by man, near a populous and civi-
lised centre. Here we could study at our leisure the natural products
of the land, then but little known, and enjoy at the same time most
of the advantages of civilisation. Later, I travelled over a large
portion of Borneo, penetrating into its far interior; I visited also
1 In Malay the title of “‘ Rajah’ corresponds to king, and that of “ Ranee”’
to queen. The Crown Prince bears the title of ‘‘ Rajah Muda” (young king),
the second heir that of “ Tuan Muda” (young sir),
A
1] OUR HOUSE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
many of the less known islands of Malaysia and New Guinea; but
nowhere did I meet with primeval forests so rich, so varied, and so
peculiar in their flora as in the vicinity of Kuching.
The reason why so primeval a forest is to be found so near a
populous centre may very naturally be asked. It is more simple
than at first sight appears. To begin with, the capital of Sarawak
was formerly much lower down the river, where Santubong now
lies. Again, it must be remembered that, until lately, the Malay
population of the Bornean coast-land lived entirely by piracy, and
hardly thought of or attempted anything in the way of agriculture ;
while even those Malays who had settled along the rivers of the
interior were more often engaged in trying to cheat the Land-
Dyaks than in cultivating the soil. With the country in a con-
stant state of war and anarchy, the refuge of pirates from all parts
of the Indian archipelago, now siding with the Malays now with
the Sea-Dyaks, agriculture was, in fact, impossible. Yet this was
the condition of Sarawak before Sir James Brooke came to the
rescue. Itis therefore not surprising that the forest around Kuching
should be still unmodified over an area of many miles towards the
interior, and that the Land-Dyaks, more peaceful in their habits
than the Sea-Dyaks, found it safer to establish themselves in
less accessible localities, far from the sea and from the Malay
settlements.
But I must lay aside the past history of Sarawak to complete
the description of the neighbourhood of our bungalow, the scene
of our first scientific explorations. I have already remarked that
the primeval forest was on one side close to our house. No kind of
pathway, however, led to it, and in order to reach it a dense scrub
had to be crossed which had grown where the old trees of the
forest had been destroyed. The flora of this scrub was very
uninteresting, and after the first day got none of my attention.
Westwards, however, in the direction of Mattang, only a short
stretch of bare ground intervened, and a good path led at once
into the great forest. Our bungalow was in the midst oi park-like
ground, the meadow patches being formed by a small grass (Andro-
pogon aciculatus, Retz.), the well-known “love grass” of Anglo-
Indians, so called because its prickly glumes or ears are easily
detached and fasten themselves on the dress of the passer-by in
the most tenacious and inconvenient manner. Round the Rajah’s
palace the gardeners are continually cutting it, and have succeeded
in converting it into fine, green, soft and close-cropped lawns. In
Sarawak this “‘ love grass” is the only plant with which lawns can
be made, and when well kept the inconvenience caused by the
seeds and their involucra is much diminished. The plant, which is
a stranger to Borneo, as are nearly all the grasses found there,
owes its wide diffusion to its tenacious and too affectionate ears.
oO
IN BORNEAN] FORESEES [ CHAP.
Around the bungalow, but farther off, where the ground was left
uncultivated, other kinds of grasses grew. Of these the most per-
nicious was the “Lalang” or ‘ Alang-alang,”’ the Imperata
avundinacea of botanists, which destroys every other plant where it
grows. I need not speak of it at present, but on more than one
occasion I shall have to mention this pest in the following pages.
More interesting were the bushes of the ‘‘ Onkodok”’ of the Malays
(Melastoma obvolutum, Jack.), with big, rosy flowers of great beauty,
and, where the soil was damper, clumps of Dillenta (Wormia),
suffruticosa, Griff.), the “* Simpor”’ of the Malays, were most con-
spicuous on account of its large leaves and huge golden flowers,
often five and a half inches in diameter.
A little stream, issuing from the jungle and running into the
river just below our house, was crossed by a wooden bridge. Fol-
lowing it a pathway led to a hill on which once stood the Rajah’s
residence, burnt to the ground in 1857, during the historic mutiny
of the Chinese, which very nearly overthrew the young kingdom,
and in which the Rajah, Sir James Brooke, narrowly escaped with his
life. Our bungalow was one of the few European residences which
were not destroyed during the revolt.
Some of the land lying between our house and the forest was
partially cultivated with plantations of sweet-potatoes, bananas,
yam, pineapples, etc., which were evidently recent. These orchards
were cared for by the ~ Orang Boyan,”* or moremcomechhy
““Bawean ’—Javanese who come from a small island north of
Madura and are considered in Borneo the best field-labourers. In
the midst of these plantations a few trees of the old forest
were still remaining, some yet lving—giants with their first
branches springing from the trunks a hundred feet or more from
the ground—but most of them dead, and their bare limbs battered
and broken by the winds. On some of these large epiphytes were
still growing, such as figs, Pandani and ferns. Amongst the latter
the great elk’s-horn (Platycertum grande), on account of its singular
conformation and the diversity in shape of its fronds, was by
far the most notable.
The trees which go to form the great forests of Borneo are not
adapted to remain isolated, although in most cases provided at
their bases with broad expansions in the shape of buttresses which
widen considerably below and contribute greatly to the stability of
the trunk. If each tree could grow without having others near it
its trunk would branch sooner and not grow to so great a height
1 Ovang in Malay means ‘‘man.’’ The ‘“ Orang Boyan” are thus the
natives of the island of Boyan, as “‘ Ovang Ingris’’ are the English, “ Ovang
Blanda’”’ the Dutch, ‘“‘ Ovang putih’”’ or “‘ white men,”’ all Europeans, ‘“ Ovang
Dayak’”’ the Dyaks, ‘“‘ Ovang Malayu’’ the Malays, etc.
6
| FIRST IMPRESSIONS IN THE FOREST
as it does, struggling for light and air in the company of its fellows.
Thus the enormous height of the trunk is a direct consequence of
the number of other trees in its vicinity competing for the ground
on a restricted area, each individual striving to outgrow its neigh-
bours in order to place its foliage in the best possible conditions.
As long as these giants of the vegetable world are associated in
large numbers so as to form a forest, they prop each other up recipro-
cally and have good stability. But as soon asa forest tree is isolated
by the destruction of those which grew around it, it cannot long
resist the violence of the winds, and is soon mutilated and perishes.
In the forest the roots of the trees are also in a peculiar condition
of existence, so that they are unable to withstand the destruction
of the surrounding timber. The soil, which before was always damp
and shady, becomes abruptly exposed to great variations both
in temperature and moisture. Moreover, on account of the thick
stratum of rich humus which forms the surface layer of the primeval
forest, the roots of the trees grow out superficially instead of down-
wards. This circumstance, which on the one hand must have con-
tributed to the formation of the basal buttress-like expansions of
the trunks, explains on the other how isolated trees can easily be
overthrown by the wind, owing to the absence of deep roots.
I was impatient to see something of the country, and the morning
after our arrival, followed by a few native lads, I took my way
along the path I have mentioned which led directly into the forest—
a dense assemblage of trees, some gigantic in size, some slender,
cylindrical, and devoid of branches to a considerable height. Their
foliage high up, compactly united, formed a dense green vault,
occasionally pierced by a stray sunbeam, marking its way across
the hot, damp air. Lesser plants and bushes, of many kinds and
varied aspect, struggled below for air and light amidst the bigger
trees. The ground was covered by an intricate and confused mass of
branches and fallen trunks of aged trees, decayed and enveloped
with mosses; and a host of plants, all new to me. Not a single
stone did I see uncovered. The fallen leaves heaped together
formed a thick layer, which decomposition converts into a rich leaf-
mould wherein other plants flourish in the shade caused by the larger
ones. It hardly required any botanical experience to recognise a few
palms in the multiform vegetable crowd surrounding me. Of these
some had fan-like leaves (Licwala), and others showed elegant pin-
nated fronds, springing from a long and slender trunk (Pinanga).
But few gaudy flowers indeed were to be seen ; only here and there
a solitary Ixora ventured to colour with its deep red blossoms the
pervading dark green of the forest. The big aroids, Freycinetias,
and Pandani with long, hanging leaves, together with ferns, orchids
and hosts of epiphytes which it is impossible to enumerate, find
ways and means of existence, as exiles from the soil, high up in the
-
/
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
air, holding on by their roots to the bark of the veterans of the
forest.
For a few hundred yards the path was fairly good and dry, but
if one wandered from it one was often brought up short by the
sharp hooked thorns of the rotangs (Calamus), the climbing palms
so characteristic of the forests of Malaysia. The ground was
undulating, and gradually rose on the right, but on the left it sloped
towards the river and soon became marshy. Farther on was a
streamlet with sluggish waters, clear, but of the colour of strong
tea. In such hollows, where one sinks up to the knees in the black
mire formed by the decomposition of the fallen leaves, the types
of vegetation were very varied. Numerous lianas with singular
stems tightly twisted together ran along the ground, then climbed
rampant over the trees, to shoot up far beyond their tops. From
the bare trunks of these hanas bunches of flowers and masses of
fruit often project, without the least trace of leaves, looking as if
they were attached to the ropes of a ship. Here also grew various
small trees and singular shrubs, some with stems supported by high
roots, as if wishing to be lifted from the miry soil. One amongst
them, a new species of Archyt@a, had a tall but slender stem which
appeared as if raised on high stilts, and its head was entirely covered
with beautiful blossoms of a camellia-like red. This plant (one of
the Ternstrcemiaceee, P.B., No. 319), not having yet received a
name, may be known as Archviea (Plojarium) pulcherrima ; it is
easily distinguished from the well-known species A. elegans by its
much larger flowers. _This was one of the few small trees which,
under the shade of the big ones, bore flowers of a bright colour.
Another very curious small tree not scarce in that locality belonged
to the Anonacez (Polyaliia, P.B., No. 2,277), with the stem
clothed from the base to the bigger branches with stellate flowers
of a salmon red. The number of plants new to science which I
subsequently found in this small tract of forest was truly wonderful.
Continuing to advance, the path grew worse. Hardly a foot of
dry ground was met with, but the pathway was traced out, and
was an example of many such in Borneo. It had been made by
order of the Tuan Muda not long before, and led to Siul, the small
conical hill which could be seen from our house. Where the ground
was rising and dry, the forest could be easily crossed; but in the
hollows the water accumulates, and the vegetation is so dense as
to be quite impenetrable. In order, therefore, to make a pathway,
big trees are cut by the natives so as to fall in the direction required ;
the branches are then lopped off and the trunks adjusted in a con-
tinuous line. Thus a path is laid down over a line of prostrate
tree trunks, or “‘ batang,” as the Malays call them, even for many
miles ; but, naturally, it is hardly a level and smooth one, although
much can be done in this way by filling the gaps with smaller trunks
9 S
| A ROAD OVER TREE TRUNKS
and branches tied down with rotangs and fixed with stakes driven
into the ground. Such pathways when recently constructed can be
travelled over rapidly enough when one has learnt how to do so
with bare feet, but a novice can only acquire the art after the
experience gained by frequent falls.
The road to Siul was for the most part of this kind, but being
some months old the trunks, owing to the prevailing damp heat
and frequent rains, were becoming decayed. Many had lost their
bark on the exposed side, and this was rendered extremely slippery
by a thin coating of aminute alga. Such trunks were not at all easy
to cross without slipping off, for they were as greasy as if they had
been well soaped. I soon learnt that thick-soled boots were highly
inconvenient for travelling along the pathways of a Bornean forest,
and found thin-soled cloth shoes better adapted to the task ; for
although they cannot prevent one getting wet feet, they afford a
certain amount of protection against thorns.
The inconvenience and trouble of travelling along these path-
ways—the only means of crossing the forest marshes—is, however,
amply compensated to a naturalist, and especially an entomologist,
by the abundance of insect life. That narrow luminous streak,
where the sun rays are not intercepted by the dense foliage overhead,
is frequented by myriads of insects, especially butterflies ; too often,
alas! not easy to catch. Amongst those which were to me par-
ticularly tantalising were certain big Hestvas, with silvery transparent
wings, which kept fluttering some fifty feet or more above my head
without ever coming within reach. At last in despair I fired at
them with dust shot, and was thus able to get one.
On the trunks and branches recently cut down, one was pretty
sure of making large captures of coleoptera of the longicorn and
Curculio families; and on the damp, rotten surface of trees which
had been long dead, mucilaginous planarians glided along. More
rarely a carab was to be seen, conspicuous by its metallic tints
and slow gait; and shiny myriapods of a vivid chestnut hue
(Spheropeus sulcatulus), which, on the slightest vibration, curled
themselves up, forming a ball of the size of a large musket bullet,
and thus rolling off to the ground. Under the bark a rich catch of
insects was easily made, mostly of dull colours and with depressed
bodies. The mycologist, too, was sure in such places of a fine collec-
tion of Polyporus, Hypoxylon. Tremella, Xylaria and other kinds
of cryptogams. At times interminable columns of termites or white
ants (which are, nevertheless, not white but brown) would be met
with, crossing the path in serried ranks in a sinuous line, looking
not unlike a never-ending serpent. It is not improbable that from
these termite processions arose the oft-repeated tale that the
forests of Borneo harbour snakes of such enormous length that
they never come to.an end.
9
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
Among the greatest pests of these forests are the leeches (Hemt-
dipsa) known to the Malays as lintd; they are very numerous in
some localities and excessively troublesome. There are two species :
one keeps on the bushes and attaches itself to the passer-by on the
slightest contact, getting especially on the hands and neck ; the other,
which is still more frequent, lives on the ground, and gets on the
feet and legs. There is no way of avoiding them; they get into the
shoes and under the stockings, and, fastening especially round the
ankle, gorge themselves with blood before one is aware of their
unwelcome presence. In Sarawak there are also other kinds of
leeches—large aquatic ones. I was told that one species (Limmnotis
lowe, Baird) occasionally gets into the intestine of persons bathing,
depositing its eggs there, and causing death, but I cannot guarantee
the truth of the assertion. I can only say that the leech in question
is very swift in its movements, and adheres strongly to the part
where it attaches itself, soon getting enormously distended with
blood. It frequents clear running water, and in certain localities
on the Upper Sarawak river the natives abstain from bathing on
its account. Another species of leech said to be equally dangerous
frequents the turbid waters around Kuching. I did not, however,
succeed in getting specimens of it.
Our first excursions in the forest were necessarily short, for we
very soon collected a sufficient number of specimens to occupy
us several hours in their preparation. But I very soon felt impelled
to penetrate farther, and one morning I made up my mind not to
be tempted by anything along the road, but to reach Siul. I took
my gun and went alone, so as to enjoy fully the beauties of the forest.
I had now some days’ experience in travelling over the tree-trunks,
and I confess that I was surprised and gratified to find how rapidly
I could get along. Success, however, made me less cautious, and
I had several falls before, after about an hour’s tramp, I reached
the foot of the isolated cone of Siul, happily with no bad conse-
quences. Here, from a solitary hut built in the midst of a small
plantation of pineapples, a native came out to meet me. He was
dressed in a short jacket and trousers reaching only to the knees,
and a long knife or parang hung at his side. I thought at first that
I had met with a Dyak head-hunter, but I was very much mistaken.
How easy it is for the inexperienced traveller to commit such mis-
takes, and how many such are transmitted to posterity as first
impressions in new countries! On my return, during luncheon with
the Tuan Muda, [ learnt that my Dyak was no less than a “ Sereib ”
or “‘ Tuan-ku,” the title given in Sarawak to supposed descendants
of the Prophet. But on meeting him at Siul I fully believed him
to be a Dyak, and eyed him with a certain amount of diffidence, for
1 “ Tuan-ku ”’ in Malay is in reality a title given to persons of high rank
and to princes. ‘‘ Tuan” merely means sir or master.
10
| GIGANTIC CICADAS
the thought struck me that he might take a fancy to my head.
Having my gun I felt somewhat reassured; but I very soon found
out that the supposed head-hunter was a very civil fellow.
It is well known to travellers in the Far East how courteous and
gentlemanly the Malays are. This one, who rejoiced in the name
of Tuan-ku Yassim, very soon became my best guide in the forest.
He was a good hunter, an excellent shot, and perfectly acquainted
with jungle life ;+ quite as much so, indeed, as a Dyak, for to the
experience of a true son of the forest he added no small degree
of intelligence. His features, except, perhaps, the eves, scarcely
betrayed his Arab descent, but he had no doubt a goodly pro-
portion of Malay and Dvak blood in his veins.
Tuan-ku Yassim, who was always called by us the Tuan-ku of
Siul, procured quite a number of animals for our collections:
monkeys, squirrels, tupaias, various striking birds, amongst them
hornbills and big fruit-pigeons (Carpophaga enea), the pergam of
the Malays, and many others. Living in the midst of the primeval
forest, he had the best possible opportunities for collecting. One
cannot easily get natives to collect small birds, however, and these
were got by Doria. I also helped in such collections, and always
carried my gun during my daily excursions in the forest. We also
came to know a Javanese, named Sennen, who lived near us—a
patient hunter who added many fine birds to our collection.
Frequently towards evening Doria and I took our guns and
went towards the recent clearings, which were full of life at that
hour, especially the big isolated trees left standing amongst the
pineapple plantations. The waning of the day, usually a silent
hour in temperate climes, is in Borneo marked by the commence-
ment of a concert of noisy cicadas, who in legions fill the
air with their deafening and varied clamour. One _ species
(Pomponia imperatoria ; West.), which the Malays have named
“kyvang pokul anam,’ or the “six o'clock cicada,’ is a
giant ; one of the specimens we got measured nearly 74 inches
across the wings. It begins at sunset, and the noise it makes
is not unlike the braying of an ass in high treble, and can be
heard at a distance of many hundred yards. As soon as the cicadas
begin their concert, flights of elegant long-tailed parakeets (Palg@ornis
longicauda) appear in search of a roosting-place on the higher trees.
This was also the favourable time for observing a diminutive hawk
(Hievrax caerulescens) which, from the top of one of the highest
dry branches of a tree, darted forth ever and anon to seize a passing
1 The “jungle ’”’ of Anglo-Indians is not always an exact equivalent for
the primeval forest, but often imples a region run wild and covered by
secondary forest-growth. The term is not derived from the Malay language,
although it is used in the form of “‘ Jangala.”’ but is the Sanscrit word for
wild and desert.
Tere
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. I
insect, returning to its perch to devour its quarry at leisure. It
also preys on small birds, showing a boldness hardly in keeping
with its llhputian size. It certainly is one of the smallest of the
Raptores, being scarcely larger than a sparrow ; its plumage is of
a silky black with greenish sheen; the under parts are white, and
altogether it is a finer bird than most of its allies.
When the short twilight came on, it was not unusual to see
dark creatures jump noiselessly off from the bigger isolated trees,
perform a singular reversed parabolic flight, and alight on another
tree some thirty yards away, which they struck always lower than
the height they had started from, though ‘they at once scrambled
up to about the same level. These were the great flying-squirrels
(Pieromys nitidus). The wide expansions of skin which extend
between the fore and hind limbs oneither side are spread out when
they take their leap, and act as an admirable parachute.
We soon found out that certain trees which appeared to be a
great attraction to birds were fig-trees, covered with ripe fruits not
bigger than a pea. These trees, which are named “ Kayu ara,”
are not only of many species in Borneo, but are all abundant ; their
fruits afford food to heterogeneous animals, but more especially to
birds.. The Fici of Borneo show quite a series of adaptations, both
in shape and size, to varied biological conditions, and well deserve
special investigation.
The species of Ficus mentioned above as a great attraction to
birds—a Uvostigma—had small leaves, and its branches came from
a large and very tall trunk, upon which, as an epiphyte, it had
originally grown. It spread over an immense area. Flight suc-
ceeded flight amidst its wide branches, but we had to wait patiently
until a bird showed itself clear to be able to shoot. If one fell the
others paid no attention. Many shots were fired without any
effect, on account of the great height of the branches, which were
for the most part beyond the range of our guns. The birds which
frequented these trees were mostly of briliant colours; amongst
them several species of barbet abounded (Chotorea, Xantholema, and
Calorhamphus), of which we were able to collect many specimens.
There may be exceptions, indeed, possibly many, but it appears
to me that birds which frequent the forests of tropical countries
and feed mostly on brightly coloured fruits, have a brilliant plumage
in which bright yellow and red predominate. Green is also a
frequent colour in the plumage of these birds ; and perhaps it was
originally not merely assumed in defensive mimicry, but as a sort
of instinctive sympathy with the surrounding predominant tint.
1 «<< Kayw”’ means tree in Malay, and is prefixed to the specific name of
any kind. The words Bunga (flower), Bua (fruit), Akar (root or lana), are
preposed in a similar manner.
12
KUCHING,
ASTANA,
THE
YS OF
Fig. 3.—VIEW IN THE GARDE
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
The Mattang mountain, which I could see clothed in its mantle
of green each day from our verandah, was an irresistible attraction
to me, and I decided to climb its heights as soon as possible. The
Tuan Muda told me that it was no easy task, as in that direction
no pathway led through the forest, which was stated to extend for
nearly ten miles over low and marshy land, and thus to be most
difficult to cross. At the time we did not know that by following
certain winding estuaries hidden amongst the mangroves it was
possible to reach the foot of the mountain in a canoe. Il
had suggested to the Tuan Muda to have a pathway laid down
by Dyaks. Meanwhile, on the morning of July oth, with Tuan-ku
Yassim and a few Malays, I decided to attempt to explore the
forest beyond Siul. We only took our guns and provisions for a
meal in the forest. I had already several times traveiled the road
between Kuching and Siul, and was pretty certain that no important
novelty could cause me to delay on the way. But beyond Siul all
was unknown country, not only to me, but also to the Tuan-ku,
although he lived so near.
We rounded Siul—at whose foot, in several places, the forest had
been thinned, and a fine tree-fern, Alsophila contaminans, had
multiplied—but we soon entered the primeval forest, and then,
compass in hand, made our way towards the Mattang mountains,
steering for the higher peak, the bearing of which I got by sending
one of my men to the top of a tree. The forest could hardly have
been wilder and denser. It is possible that Malays or Dyaks had
previously gone into it in search of gutta-percha or rotangs, but
no trace of any path could be seen, nor that human feet had ever
trodden its soil. Even the Malays, however, rarely attempt to pene-
trate the primeval forest beyond a mile or two from the river banks.
The ground was at first rising and dry, and the spaces between: the
forest giants were covered with young specimens of these big trees,
and by an immense and varied host of other plants which could not
emulate the latter in the struggle for existence. On the ground lay
enormous prostrate trunks which in a few years, or, it may be, in
a few months, were once more to give back to the soil that which
during hundreds of years they had taken from it. In such a forest
our progress was very slow ; obstacles had to be avoided, and we
had to cut our way through with parangs. I had early laid aside
my European hunting-knife, and had adopted this very handy
Malay weapon, which is indeed invaluable in forest travelling. We
cut steadily through the intricate mass of vegetation which barred
our way, the worst obstacle being the thorny leaves of the Calami
(rotangs), with their whip-like appendages covered with hooked
spines destructive alike to our skin and dress. In addition to
cutting down the bushes and such like, one takes the precaution of
bending them down in the direction to be followed—a simple plan of
14
i| AN EXPLORATION TOWARDS MATTANG
marking the way, but indispensable in forest travelling, to prevent
getting lost. Even when such travelling is comparatively easy
because the vegetation is less dense, it is prudent to keep marking
the way thus. Those who have never known these forests could
hardly believe how easy it is to lose oneself.
In the forest, as on the ocean, the horizon closes up behind
as one progresses, with this difference, that in the forest the horizon
is only a few feet distant. Forest travelling inspires greater
fear than sea or desert travelling, for here the sun by day and
the stars by night are sure guides. But in the Bornean primeval
jungle the sky is invisible, and if a few sun-rays now and then
filter through the dense foliage overhead, they are useless in telling
the direction to be followed. Again, in deserts or extensive plains
it is rare indeed not to find some prominent object which can be
used as a sign-post to mark the way. In the forest the world
appears to close in behind us, the fear of advancing grows with the
thought of not being able to turn back, and the unknown generates a
sense of horror. [think it very probable that many animals feel this
same impression of fear and horror that man does at the thought
of losing himself in a forest. And it is possibly this which causes a
marked restriction in the geographical range of the forest fauna
when compared with that of deserts, steppes, or plains.
During certain hours of the day a strange and impressive calm
pervades the forest. Nature appears to have gone to sleep in her
own domain, and hardly a sound or a cry can be heard denoting the
presence of living creatures. But the Bornean forest is so varied
and so different at different hours and seasons that no description
can possibly convey an adequate idea of it to those who have not
known it. Infinite and ever changing are its aspects, as are the
treasures it hides. Its beauties are as inexhaustible as the variety
of its productions. In the forest, man feels singularly free. The
more one wanders in it the greater grows the sense of profound
admiration before Nature in one of its grandest aspects. The
more one endeavours to study it, the more one finds in it to study.
Its deep shades are sacred to the devotee of Science. Yet they
afford ample food for the mind of the believer, not less than to that
of the philosopher.
We proceeded slowly, compass in hand, through the forest,
thinking we had made more progress than was actually the case.
The marshy nature of the ground and the matted vegetation of
rotangs, screw-pines, Mapania, and other big herbaceous plants with
spinous leaves, greatly hampered our movements. In_ these
- localities Nepenthes rafflesiana is frequently met with—one of those
singular pitcher-plants for which Borneo is renowned, with large,
blood-stained ampulle filled with water, depending from a thread
at the extremities of the leaves.
fie
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. I
(We had left Siul about three hours when we reached a slightly
rising ground covered with a vegetation different from that of the
surrounding forest, and especially marked by the presence of two
conifers, Dacrydium elatum and the umbrella casuarina (C.
sumatrana 2), \besides other shrubs, trees, and ferns which we had
not met with previously in the forest, even a few paces Off.
The Malays name such patches of different vegetation “* Mattang,”
and consider them sacred and inhabited by spirits. There are
several of them in the neighbourhood of Kuching. One of the ferns
always to be found on the mattang is the lovely Polypodium
dipteris, Bl., and Nepenthes are also often met with.
Our progress was almost immediately after this arrested by a
watercourse ten or fifteen yards wide and very deep, with singularly
dark brown water. On this mattang the trees were less lofty
than elsewhere, and the shade, on account of the peculiar foliage
of the conifers just mentioned, less dark. The Tuan-ku climbed up
a tree, helping himself with a liana, and was thus able to see that we
had hitherto followed the right direction, but also that we had
hardly got through one third of the distance. We had travelled at
the rate of rather over half a mile an hour !
It was near noon, and we took advantage of the dry spot to eat
our rice. To push on farther was difficult, for we had to find a
means of crossing the stream. My object was, however, in a
measure attained, and I had seen enough of the forest to know the
sort of difficulties I had to contend with in crossing it. Big streams
could hardly be met with ; most probably the one we had seen was
the biggest, and this could easily be got over by cutting down one
of the trees growing on its banks, so as to make it fall across and
act as a bridge. We accordingly turned homewards, laden with a
large collection of botanical specimens. Many, however, I had to
leave ungathered, it being difficult to reach them; but these were
all noted and destined for collection at some future day, and the
completion of my rapidly increasing herbarium.
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CHAR E RT
THE PEOPLE AT KUCHING—TRADES AND PROFESSIONS—ITHE CHINESE—
THE MALAYS OF BORNEO AND THEIR ORIGIN—ARABS AND ISLAMISM—
HyBRIDISMS—-PROBABLE ABORIGINES IN BORNEO—THE MALAyYS A
MONGREL RACE—THEIR PHYSICAL CHARACTERS AND DRESS.
H” ING decided on a prolonged stay in Sarawak, and finding
that Kuching formed an excellent centre whence excursions
could be made in all directions, we took measures to set up house
for ourselves, not wishing to encroach too much on the Tuan Muda’s
kind hospitality. We engaged a Chinese cook and a “ tukang
ayer,’ or water-carrier, who was also a Chinaman, and each of
us engaged besides a Malay “ boy,” or body-servant. Mine was
named Ismael; Doria’s, Kassim. We also bought a sampan, or
boat, in order to be able to cross the river whenever we desired,
and hired two Malay boatmen. In addition to these, I had to engage
several men to fell trees when in blossom, this being the only way
of getting botanical specimens of such nature.
In Sarawak the different trades and professions are in the
hands of persons of various nationalities. The best carpenters
and smiths are Chinese, who, it must be said, do many kinds of
work. Thus the principal merchants, vendors of eatables, cooks,
tailors, water-carriers, and porters are all Chinese. The Malays,
true seamen, do the fishing and small maritime trade; they are
also woodsmen, felling trees and preparing timber, and exploring
the forest in search of its natural products—rotangs, resins, gutta-
percha, india-rubber, oil-seeds, etc. The washermen, the hair-
dressers for Europeans (tukang chukor), tinkers, and a few
merchants and shopkeepers, are Hindus or Klings.
The best agriculturists in Sarawak are again Chinese; but the
European residents mostly employ as gardeners Javanese and
the already-mentioned Orang Boyan, and Klings (natives of the
Malabar coast), who also act as cow-keepers, taking charge of
the few head of cattle, mostly milch cows, which the country can
boast of. I often admired the splendid pigs bred by Chinese,
who certainly excel in the art of fattening these animals. Amongst
Other food they give them an aquatic plant, the so-called water-
lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), grown purposely in swamps and pools,
and boiled.
17) C
CHAP. 11] pi PEORLE Ak aw CEING
At present the mixed population of Sarawak does not amal-
gamate, and each minds his own business, looks after his special
trade, and professes his own religion. But in time it is hardly
possible that no mixture should take place in this heterogeneous
assemblage. The Chinese population keeps quite distinct, and
especially so from the Malays, partly on account of religious anti-
pathy, and partly because there is a constant immigration of
new elements. Otherwise the Chinese mix easily with other
people, for they can get-only few of their own women, and must
therefore intermarry with the natives of the land where they have
come to settle. They are beyond doubt the most active, indus-
trious, laborious, and enterprising element in the population of
Sarawak ; and, foremost in the inveterate vice of opium-smoking,
cause more money to circulate than the more sober Malay. They
are thus in every way a source of considerable revenue to the local
government.
The Ovang Malayu, or Malays of Borneo, like those settled
on the coasts of the Malayan peninsula and of the Indian Archi-
pelago generally, are the result of very different ethnic elements.
Every individual who qualifies himself as an Orang Malayu
is a Mussulman, and speaks Malay. The Mussulmans of Sarawak
all belong to the “Sunni,” or orthodox sect, and the aristocracy
amongst them, the chiefs and their families, show Arab descent.
The fact that the Malays are Mussulmans is plain evidence that
the Arabs were the original introducers of the religion of Mahomet
in these lands.
It appears that Arabs were formerly more numerous in Sarawak
than they are at present, and there can be no doubt of the very
great influence they have exerted on the littoral populations
of Borneo. Low writes that the Arab Sareib-Saib, his brother
Sareib-Mulla, and their relations, often used to send parties of
Sea-Dyaks into the interior to carry off as many young women
of the Land-Dyaks as they could get. It is said that in one such
raid as many as 300 were carried off.
And again, these very Arabs who came to settle in Borneo
were doubtless by no means always of pure descent, and the blood
of negroes and other races probably flowed in their veins.
For do not all tradesmen and merchants, from Zanzibar to the
Persian Gulf, who profess Islamism call themselves Arabs, and
often give themselves the title of ‘‘Sareib”’ or “ Seriff,’ pretend-
ing to be descendants of the Prophet °
This shows how dangerous it is in Borneo to take one of the
headmen or chiefs as an ethnic type of a given tribe, as they are
often of foreign origin. For instance, it is well known that on
the Seribas river the chiefs are nearly all of Arab descent. On
1 Low. Savawak: Its Inhabitants and Productions, pp. 118, 119-23.
19
IN BORNEAN FORESTS— [ CHAP.
‘the other hand, even the common people in Borneo, on account
of prevalent piracy, raids, and slavery, must necessarily be greatly
mixed. On large continents and with great masses of population
such causes can only act slowly and moderately in changing the
general aspect of the people ; but in Borneo, where the population
is small and surrounded by different elements, the case is different,
and raids and piracy are factors which have to be taken into con-
Fig. 5.—INCHE BAKAR, CLERK AT THE COURT OF JUSTICE (MALAY)
DATU IMAUN, HEAD OF THE MOSQUE AT KUCHING (OF ARAB ORIGIN)
HADJI SUDEN, MEMBER OF COUNCIL, KUCHING (PARTLY ARAB).
(Reading from Left to Right.)
sideration. In such countries, where slavery exists, and more
especially where a dominant and superior race is in contact with
an inferior one, the ethnic type is soon modified, for the progeny
becomes part of the family, and the descendants interbreed.
Returning to the foreign elements which have contributed to
form the present Malay population of Sarawak, I may quote Mr.
20
mu] THE MALAYS OF BORNEO AND THEIR ORIGIN
St. John, who tells us that when the town of Kuching was located
nearer the sea at Santubong, it was attacked by a fleet of Pegu
pirates, who carried off all the women, the majority of the men
being absent on an expedition.! But the latter returned in time
to pursue the ravishers, and their swift boats quickly overtook the
heavy prahus of the Peguans, who were soon defeated and cap-
tured. Thus the Malays not only recovered their women, but
carried back to Sarawak as slaves the Pegu pirates, with the excep-
tion of the chiefs, who were slain. In Sarawak there is still
a tradition that some of the Malays of Samarahan, and also
of Kuching, are descendants of these Peguans.
It is also undeniable that a certain proportion of the Malays
of Sarawak and other parts of Borneo came originally from
Sumatra, and from the Malay Peninsula. But the Malays of
Malacca, who are considered typical and of pure descent, must
undoubtedly have been influenced by the geographical position
of the peninsula, along which the people of India, Burma, Siam,
and Cochinchina would naturally pass on their way to the islands
of the Indian Archipelago.
Sarawak, before being ceded to Sir James Brooke by Rajah
Muda Hassim, was one of the principal provinces of the kingdom
of Bruni. Thus besides the Arab Sareibs, who, under the
cloak of religious hypocrisy, managed to domineer the native
population, there were the nobles, or “ Pangerangs,” of Bruni,
who emulated the Sareibs in fleecing the Land-Dyaks and in
carrying off their women.
It appears that the Pangerangs of Bruni are the descendants
of Mussulman chieftains who came originally from Malacca, and
settled at Bruni with the spread of Islamism. But it is believed
that the kingdom of Bruni was originally founded by Chinese,
and it is asserted that in its capital at the end of the eighteenth
century there were no less than 30,000 Chinamen, mostly pepper
planters. At present the true Chinese at Bruni are few; but it
cannot be doubted that the native population there must have
been ethnologically modified by so large an immigration from
China. St. John (Op. cit. I., p. 290) further asserts that in North
Borneo many natives of the Philippine Islands are to be seen ;
they were originally captured by the Lanuns and Balignini, sold
as Slaves, and eventually married native women. Moreover,
in the case of a very large island. lke Borneo, with its
peculiar geographical position, it is not enough to take into
consideration events which have happened in recent and historical
periods, but possible immigrations in remote times must not be
overlooked. However, even allowing only for what we know
has taken place during the last four or five centuries, one cannot
1St. JoHN. Life in the Forests of the Far East,1.,p. 126. London, 1862.
21
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
speak of the natives of Borneo, and especially of the Malays, in
a general way, as unities. Thus Sukadana, Banjarmasin, and, some
say, Sarawak (Low, Of. cit. p. 94); are Javanese settlements ; Pasir
and Koti, on the east coast have been peopled by Bugis from
Celebes. At Sambas and Pontianak the Arabs predominated, not
to mention a large Chinese element and their descendants through
unions with Dyak women who for many generations have
washed for gold in that region.
The Malays of Borneo, who inhabit the coast and are given to
commerce, are thus, I hold, to be considered as the outcome of
an ancient and long-continued fusion of numerous and very different
ethnic elements, principally Hindus, Burmese, Chinese, Siamese,
and Annamites, with a marked infusion of Arab blood, to say
nothing of other factors resulting from piratical expeditions,
slavery, and the importation of women robbed from other native
tribes.
It is not easy to say what race of mankind originally peopled
Borneo in remote antiquity ; but it is in my opinion not impro-
bable that the Negroid+ race was spread over all Southern Asia
and the numerous dependent islands in the distant past. Of this
race more or less unaltered remains are to be found in the Anda-
manese, and in the Aetas or Negritos of the Philippines; and
—less pure—in the Samangs and other Selangian tribes of the Malay
Peninsula. The very dark skin and the curly hair of many natives
of India are, I think, traces of what remains in them of the Negroid
element after the Aryan invasions.
In conclusion, I believe that any Malay submitted to an analy-
tical investigation of an anthropological nature will be found to
be the outcome of an amalgamation of various ethnic types.
And it is for this reason that I regard them as a secondary, much
mixed, and hybrid race.
From what we have seen, then, regarding the origin of the
Malays of Sarawak, it is plain that their physical characters must
be equally varied, and that it is not easy to give a good compre-
hensive ethnological description of their appearance. Certain
characteristics, however, are pretty constant. They have little
or no beard, but when they manage to grow a few hairs with a
faint semblance to a moustache they cultivate them with great
care, and are very proud of them. It may be said of the Malays
that their skin is brown, and that they never have a prominent
nose, it being usually depressed. Their eyes are often straight,
but as often oblique, like those of the Chinese ; the cheek-bones
are prominent, the chin is small, the lips regular but full. Their
hair is very black and smooth, but, as they generally wear it short
1 This term, which I consider most appropriate, was first proposed by
Professor Henry H. Giglioli.
22
i] THEIR PHYSICAL CHARACTERS AND DRESS
or very closely shaven, the head is always covered with a piece
of cloth variously folded, or, in the case of those of Arab origin,
_ with a turban, the rest of the costume being likewise Arab. The
true Malay dress consists of a short jacket or baju, often of silk,
and more or less embroidered, and short trousers (sloar). The
latter might be thought a modern fashion derived from European
influence. It appears, however, that this kind of nether garment
for men is very ancient in Asia, for in the sculptures of the ancient
temples of Boro Budor in Java! (Fig. 6) a costume of this nature
Fig. 6.—MAN WEARING THE Sloay, OR BREECHES.,
(From the Sculptures at the Temple of Boro Budor in Java.)
is represented. Besides the above-mentioned articles of dress,
the Malays wear a sarong wrapped round the waist and secured
in front ; it supports a kris or dagger, which is always worn. At
the present day, Western civilisation has a continual tendency
to change the style of dress of the Borneo Malays, as in the past
Hindu culture imported amongst even the wilder people of the
Indian Archipelago not only the style of dress and ornaments of
India, but most of the religious beliefs, superstitions, folklore,
industries, and art notions which they now possess.
The sarong is used by both sexes. It is put on in many ways,
1 Leemans. Boro Boudour dans I’ Ile de Java, p. 616.
23
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. II
and can be a substitute for trousers, petticoats, shirt, and waist-
cloth, or even serves as a sheet or a bathing costume. Its use is
widely spread in Southern Asia and all over the Malay Archipelago
(Fig. 7). For women, the sarong is an essential article of dress ; they
usually wear it as a skirt or petticoat, held by a belt round the
waist. Besides the sarong, the wealthy ladies of Kuching wear
a sort of chemise of cambric or of coloured silk, whilst on their
head an embroidered scarf surrounds the face, recalling the head-
dress of certain nuns, and falls down the back. It would take too
long to give a minute description of the variations and details
Fig. 7.—WOMAN WEARING Sarong.
(From the Boro Budor Sculptures.)
of the toilette of the Sarawak ladies, who also much affect both
gold and silver jewellery, which they love to display on every
occasion.
The women of Kuching have beautiful black hair, and their
complexion is much lighter than that of the men, but the nose
is somewhat more flattened. There is, however, a certain vari-
ability in the type, a fact which can easily be explained by what
I have previously stated regarding the piratical habits formerly
practised by the natives of Kuching.
CHAP SLT
THE FRUITS OF SARAWAK—THE MANGOSTEEN AND ITS HABITAT—ORIGIN OF
CULTIVATED FRUITS—THE PINANG—OUR MENAGERIE—MONKEYS—THE
NASALIS AND THE SHAPE OF THE NOSE IN MAN—BIRDS IN CAPpTIVITY—
SNAKES—FASCINATED FROGS—THE FLYING LIZARD—FLYING ANIMALS
—THE Mammats or BORNEO—BIG GAME IN SARAWAK.
N the hill where the former residence of Rajah Brooke used to
stand, and in the park around his present residence, are
grown most of the cultivated fruit-trees of Malaysia. The Rajah
had also endeavoured to introduce various kinds of plants which
might, if acclimatised, have proved a source of wealth to the
country ; amongst these were the nutmeg, the cinnamon, and the
cacao. Most of the characteristic fruit-trees were not then in
blossom ; such, for example, as the durian, rambutan, lansat and
mango. We were, however, still able to get some mangosteens,
the fruit of Garcinia mangostana (Fig. 8), and one of the most
delicious within the tropics. It is rarely to be found beyond the
limits of the Malayan Islands. Even in Borneo its cultivation is
limited. The Malays call it “ Manggis,” and the Land-Dyaks,
““Sekup.” The true native land of the mangosteen is unknown.
It is true that in Borneo several wild species of Garcinia are found,
not unlike the mangosteen, and some with edible fruits, but they are
always sour. The mangosteen is beyond doubt a native of the
Malayan region, but nowhere yet has it been found growing wild.
It has been asserted, but without proof, that its native land, like
that of the durian, is the Malay Peninsula. The latter tree also
is only known as a cultivated species.
Has the sea overwhelmed the land where these originated, or are
they still to be found growing wild in some remote forest ? Or, on
the other hand, may they not have been produced by cultivation ?
But, if the latter hypothesis be true, what is the parental stock
from which they have been obtained ? It seems to me probable
that certain cultivated plants—wheat, amongst others—have been so
long cared for by man that they cannot exist or multiply without
his protection. Such plants, I consider, are united to man by a
kind of symbiosis, so that they can only be found where he is and
can ensure their existence. In the wild state now they cannot, in
25
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
their modified condition, hold their own in the struggle with de-
structive agents.
In virtue of its delicious flavour, the mangosteen heads the list
of the edible fruits of the tropical world. It is of the size and
shape of a small orange. When ripe its skin, or rather rind, is
smooth, and of a dark purple or vinous colour. To get at the
edible part this rind must be cut through all round. The inner
layer of it is nearly half an inch thick, and is highly astringent,
containing, probably, alarge proportion of tannin. If one has taken
Fig. 8.— FRUIT OF THE MANGOSTEEN, Garcinia Mangostana (2 NAT. SIZE).
care to cut through to the nght depth, the upper half of the rind
can be detached, leaving uncovered a central white, glittering mass
composed of 5-6 segments, like the “ pigs’ of an orange. Each of
these consists of a seed surrounded by an abundant white, juicy
pulp ; soft, sweet, slightly acidulated, and with a delicate, delicious
flavour, which recalls that of a fine peach, muscatel grapes, and
something peculiar and indescribable which no other fruit has.
All the year round ripe soursops (Anona muricata) can be
obtained at Kuching. They are big heart-shaped fruits, green out-
side, with a white, Juicy flesh, which is very agreeable to the palate.
The papaw (Carica papaya) is also a perennial fruiter, and grows
almost spontaneously in gardens and about houses ; its fruit is not
unlike a melon, but less highly flavoured. Both these are of
American origin, as are also the sweetsop (Anona squamata) and the
26
111 | ORIGIN OE (CUM AGEE DR Oilars
custard-apple (Anona reticulata), both of which grow to perfection
in Sarawak.
Of bananas there are many varieties ; pineapples are also always
to be seen in the market, where, in its season, they also bring for
sale the gigantic fruit of the Jack-tree (Avrtocarpus tntegrifolia).
The coconut palm is found everywhere, but the larve of an
insect pest (Rhynchophorus ferrugineus) damage it greatly at Kuch-
ing. There are some plantations in a more flourishing condition on
the sandy beaches of the small islands off the coast, but most of
the coconuts used in Sarawak are imported from the Natuna Islands.
The Aveca catechu, or “‘ pinang,” is perhaps in strict parlance
not a fruit-tree, because its nuts are not eaten, but merely chewed,
as all know. It is to the Malay what the camel is to the Arab: it
has followed him in all his wanderings. It may be safely asserted
that there is not a Malay hut near which at least one of these
most elegant of palms is not seen growing ‘Fig. 9). Like the
mangosteen, it belongs to that series of cultivated plants whose
origin is a mystery." But there can be no doubt that the habit of
chewing it, together with siz, or betel leaves, and lime, has spread
from tropical Asia to the Indian Archipelago, and thence eastwards
across Melanesia to Polynesia. In Borneo the pinang nuts have a
part in various rites and ceremonies of the Malays and Dyaks. The
areca palm itself has often inspired the poetic sentiments of Malay
writers, and its flowers are much appreciated by the women for their
fragrance. Amongst the Lingga Dyaks and the Balu the marriage
ceremony is preceded by that called “ Bla Pinang,’ which means
the division of areca nuts.
To grow to perfection the pinang requires a rich, somewhat damp
soil, moist atmosphere, and a perennial high temperature. Its fohage
is always a fresh green, for when a frond is old its immense leaf-
sheath splits all down and falls, carrying the frond with it. The
tree, therefore, never shows any dried or withered part, but is always
in fine condition ; its slender, elegant trunk, straight and smooth
1 The fruit of the areca does not stand in need of human protection, for
it does not appear to be eaten by animals. Nevertheless, the tree is not found
in a wild state. But although its fruit is not sought after as food, its heart
or “‘ cabbage’ is so excellent, besides being totally unprotected by spines,
that in the forest it would probably soon be devoured, and the death of
the palm ensue. Its existence may thus be said indirectly to depend on
human protection. Among all the wild species of areca found in the East
Indies, the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, Borneo, the Philippines, etc.,that which
in its botanic character is closest to the domestic form is the Aveca concinna
of Ceylon. This would seem to indicate that the native country of the pinang
must have once been that area which connected Ceylon and the Malay penin-
sula ; a region of which the Andaman and Nicobar islands may be considered
the last remnants. The same may be said for the durian and mangosteen,
both of which may also have had their origin on lands now submerged.
=
27
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. III
as an arrow, is generally of a grey colour, caused by the lichens
which grow on it.’
Most of the plants and fruit-trees I have mentioned do not
grow in and about Kuching with that vigour which the luxuri-
ance of the neighbouring forest would lead one to expect. The soil
of the low hills on which Kuching is built, and also that of the adjoin-
ing land, is formed of white or yellowish clays, and is far from fertile
—which one would hardly suspect, or, indeed, think possible, con-
sidering the giant proportions attained by trees on the same area
before the forest was cleared. The explanation probably lies in
the fact that the forest trees depend mostly for their growth not on
the soil formed by the decomposition of rocks, but on the vegetable
humus, the result of centuries of accumulation.
The first months of our stay in Sarawak passed rapidly ; many
and varied occupations made the time seem short. It was with
difficulty that I found time to prepare and dry the numerous plants
which I collected daily in the adjacent forest. The number of species
1 In Borneo I found foliaceous lichens excessively rare ; most of those
which I collected there, about 140 in number, were encrusting species, which
blend with the bark on which they grow. They were principally Graphidee,
Thelotrema, Ascidine@ and Verrucaria. (Cf. KREMPELHUBER. Lichenes quos
legit O. Beccari in Insulis Borneo, etc., in Nuovo Giornale Bot. Ital., 1875, p. 6.)
A large portion of these lichens were found by me in the grounds of Govern-
ment House on the trunks of arecas, coconut palms, orange, and shaddock
trees. It appears, therefore, that, in Sarawak, trees with a smooth bark, in
open localities with plenty of light, are best adapted to support lichens ; for
in the shady forest they are much less frequent on tree trunks, but abound,
together with various Fungiand Jungermannias, on the leaves of low-growing
species. The reason of this predilection shown by lichens for the smooth
bark of trees growing in the more open spaces is, I suspect, to be sought in
the greater facility of the condensation of aqueous vapour on certain surfaces
in preference to others. The non-porous, smooth, and compact surface of the
bark on the trunks of coconuts, arecas, and orange trees growing in the open,
which becomes much heated during the day, radiates greatly at night, and,
in cooling, causes the aqueous vapour with which the atmosphere is laden to
condense in abundance. This moisture remains, moreover, better on these
smooth barks than on those of a cork-like or porous nature, far less good
conductors of heat, and more easily absorbing the aqueous vapour. A smooth
and non-porous bark may be compared with a rock, on which encrusting
lichens flourish well ; for these organisms require periods of moisture, alter-
nating with seasons of drought, in well-lighted localities, rather than an excess
of moisture of a continuous nature in shady places. JIimagine that such is the
reason why many epiphytes, and amongst them orchids, prefer to take root
on naked smooth-barked trees, often in the highest and most exposed parts,
where at first sight one would think that their seeds must find great difficulty
in germinating. Smooth and coriaceous leaves must likewise condense the
aqueous vapour of the air much more easily than leaves which are hairy and
soft in texture ; and it is for these reasons, perhaps, that a large number of
Hepatice, and both encrusting and foliaceous lichens, are often found on the
upper surface of such leaves in the low-lying parts of the Malayan forests.
28
(‘punoiso10f ut 92y9a7V9 voa4py ‘stuted voo1Vy)
‘SNHGUVD VNVISV AHL WONT UAAIN MVMVUVS AHL—'O ‘SLT
IN BORNEAN FORESTS | CHAP.
appeared inexhaustible, and many of them—I may say several
hundreds—turned out later to be new to science. Doria, on his
part, brought home insects, birds, and other animals which his Per-
sian taxidermist Kerim had to skin and prepare. But even the
Malays had begun to understand our work, and they often brought
us animals, usually alive.
Ina short time we had thus got together a fine series of skins and
a goodly collection of live animals. Amongst the latter were several
“ plandoks”’ (Tvagulus napu), one of the most diminutive species
of the chevrotain tribe. We fed them on the flowers of the Simpor,
botanically, Dillinta suffruticosa, of which we had an abundance
close to the house. The plandok is an extremely timid creature,
with eyes so large and beautiful that mata plandok (Tragulus-
eyed) is an endearing expression used by Malay lovers in praise of
the lady of their affections.
‘ Another singular creature which we fed with no great trouble on
bananas is the “‘ kongkang ” of the Malays (Nycticebus tardigradus),
one of the lemurs. It is a nocturnal animal, and sleeps all day long
with its head between its legs. The Malays regard it with supersti-
tion, and believe it to possess various supernatural attributes. It
certainly is a weird-looking creature. We had also several “ tang-
ling ” of the Malays, the singular scaly anteater (Mans javanica) ;
as well as viverras or “ munsangs,’ wild cats or palm-civets
(Paradoxurus), and a lot of monkeys, of which there is no lack in
Sarawak. These we kept tied up to the bars of the verandah.
“The *“krah™ and the “berok” or” ~ bruk” of the Malays
(Macacus cynomolgus and M. nemestrinus), which of all the Bornean
monkeys are most tolerant of captivity, often came in large parties
to the trees along the river close to our house. The latter is
tamed by the natives and taught to gather coconuts.
The “*‘ bidgit ” and the “ lotong”’ of the Malays (Semmnopithecus
froniatus and S. femoralis), and the “ wa-wa,”’ ananthropoid (Hylo-
bates miilleri), are also very frequent about Kuching. The latteris,
of course, tailless, of a dark grey colour, with soft fur, a small round
face,and immensely long arms. In the mornings the adjoining forest
echoed with its singular and characteristic call. It is so strange a
sound that for a long while I could not believe that it came from a
monkey ; it was to me more like the loud harmonious cry of some
large bird. It consists of the syllables wa-wa many times repeated
with great force, dropping in tone and increasing in rapidity. The
wa-wa thrives fairly wellin captivity, feeding on fruit and boiled
rice or ‘‘ nassi ’’ ; which, strange to say, was eagerly taken by all the
animals we kept in our menagerie, whether frugivorous or carni-
vorous. The wa-wa certainly might excusably be credited with
carnivorous propensities to judge by the great development of its
canine teeth. It moves with astonishing rapidity from tree to tree,
30
ut] - MONKEYS
swinging itself along at such a pace when frightened that it gives
one the impression of a flying mammal. Apart from the orang
utan,’ of which at first we were unable to obtain specimens, the
most singular of the Quadrumana in Borneo is the long-nosed ape
(Nasalis larvatus), a large species with reddish fur, and of most singular
and ridiculous aspect. It is, with the exception of the rare and little
known Rhinopithecus of Mupin, the only monkey which possesses a
prominent nose, a peculiarity which has struck the fancy of the
Malays, who have given it the nickname of orang blanda, or Dutch- .
man (Fig. 10). A very young specimen which I kept alive was the
Fig. 10,.—HEAD OF PROBOSCIS MONKEY, Nasalis laruatus.
funniest of comic creatures, with a long nose as pink as that of a
child, but bigger in proportion than that of a full-grown man.
I had often met with this curious creature on the big trees
along the river near the town, feeding on the fruits of the “ Kayu
peddada,” botanically, Sonneratia lanceolata, for which they have a
special predilection, and which, indeed, form their principal food.
During the daytime they keep to the shelter of the jungle, but to-
wards evening they usually approach the river, where they find an
abundance of their favourite food, and usually prefer to pass the
night.
Why amongst all apes, with the sole exception above mentioned,
this one should alone be provided with a long, prominent, and fleshy
‘
1“ Utan”’ in Malay means
of the woods,” or “ wild man.”
! 31
“wood ,”’ thus “‘ Orang-utan’’ means ‘‘ man
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
nose, somewhat hooked at its extremity, it is, indeed, difficult to
say. According to the Darwinian theory, it might possibly be
attributed to sexual selection. If such were the case, we might,
perhaps, congratulate this monkey on its good taste. The nose is,
no doubt, an important feature in mankind, and furnishes important
racial characters as well as individual distinctions ; but as far as I
am aware no one has hitherto sought for an explanation of the very
various shapes which it assumes. As it can scarcely be admitted
that mere sexual selection has influenced the shape and length of
the nose, we must suppose that its modification can only be due to
use. But it is not easy to determine what external stimuli can
have caused such modifications of the organ. Defence of the respira-
tory passages against the introduction of foreign particles may be
one cause; 1.e., the phagocytic action against pathogenic micro-
organisms floating in the air. Again, special sensorial stimuli may
have come into play tending to the extension of the sensorial surface.
Analogous causes (1.e.,the direction in which such sensorial func-
tions are brought into action) may have influenced the position of the
opening of the nostrils. As a case in point it is worthy of note that
races of men who have lived from time immemorial in open coun-
tries, for instance the Semitic people, are furnished with prominent
noses having narrow nostrils directed downwards ; whilst Negroes
and Malays, for the most part dwellers in the forest, have snub noses
with wide nostrils turned upwards, such as characterise most
monkeys. It may be further noted that in the human race nasal
development has progressed from the equator towards Central Asia,
where it appears to have reached its maximum of development.
Considering the very large number of species of birds which live in
the Bornean forests, it was remarkable how few were brought to us
alive. The ‘“‘ burong sitl”’ (follulus rouloul)—*‘ burong”’ means bird
in Malay—was one of the fewwe got. It thrives easily in captivity,
and isa handsome species about the size of a partridge, of fine
dark coloration, a deep sheeny green and chestnut brown pre-
dominating ; the cock has a curious crest of purplish brown
feathers. But the best cage-bird is undoubtedly the mynah (Gra-
cula javanensis), a general favourite, which easily learns entire
phrases, imitating the human voice far better than parrots do.
Doria and I brought back from Sarawak some 800 bird-skins, repre-
senting 226 species. This collection has formed the basis of a book
by Count T. Salvadori on the avifauna of Borneo, being vol. ii. of
the Annali del Museo Civico dt Genova. In this work no less than
392 species are described, but the learned author writes tome that
the known species of birds of this great island are now double the
number of those enumerated in 1874, when his work was published.
It is, however, a strange but true fact that the Bornean avifauna has
few forms which are peculiar to it and which give it a marked physi-
32
11 | SNAKES
ognomy, as do the Paradiseide to New Guinea. Most of the Bornean
birds, even permanent residents, are found in the neighbouring
islands (especially in Sumatra), or in the Malay Peninsula ; whilst
several of those not found elsewhere only differ in minor characters
from allied species living on neighbouring islands.
Not unfrequently our hunters and collectors would bring us
snakes, mostly living, and suspended by a slip-knot to a stick.
These usually met their fate in a jar of spirits, but some of them
were sufficiently large to render the operation a little embarrassing.
One day a Malay brought mea “‘ chinchin mas” 1 (Dipsas dendrophila
of zoologists), an entirely black species, with yellow rings ; it was a
fine specimen, about six feet in length. This species frequents
trees by the riverside, or the mangroves, and it is not uncommon for
specimens to drop into a passing sampan, for it has a habit of rest-
ing half-twisted on overhanging branches, easily shaken by a passing
boat. The natives assert that it is poisonous. When I handle
snakes, whether poisonous or not, I always hold them by the neck
between the thumb and index finger of the right hand, for thus held
they cannot possibly bite. When putting them in spirits I take
care to have a jar with a wide mouth of adequate size ready, and
introduce the snake, held as I have stated, tail foremost. In the left
hand I hold the stopper of the jar, and when the body of the snake
is well in I drop the head, and witha rapid movement close the jar.
In performing this operation on the above-mentioned “ chinchin
mas ’’—a very lively specimen—the moment I let go the head I
distinctly saw it emit with some force two fine jets of liquid from
the mouth, just as a poisonous snake might do. On another occa-
sion I had quite a struggle with an “ ular sawa,” a species of python,
small of its kind but exceedingly vigorous. I had it as usual by the
nape and was going to pot it, when it twisted itself with such
force round my arm that I was obliged to call one of my men to my
assistance to free myself from its coils. We kept several pythons
alive, and one escaped and remained hidden for some weeks in a
neighbouring house, where I found it. When not too big these
snakes are quite harmless, and may even be considered useful, for
they are kept in houses, where they do excellent service in destroying
rats. One day I caught one of these big snakes in a singular manner.
Our cook was in the habit of keeping a few live fowls in a cage in a
corner of the kitchen, a small separate hut a few yards from the
bungalow and level with the ground. On going to fetch a fowl he
was surprised to find in its stead a large python, which, having entered
the cage through the bars, had swallowed the fowl and coiled itself
up on the spot for quiet digestion. Even had it wished to leave
the cage it could no longer have done so, having considerably in-
creased in sitll A similar tale is told ofa bigger python, which,
1 Anglice, “ gold ring.
oo D
IN’ BORNEAN FORESTS | CHAP.
having got through the bars of a pigstye, swallowed the pig and could
no longer get out. The Malays assert that the biggest of these
snakes are capable of swallowing a deer, after having well reduced
it in size by crushing it in their coils, and lubricated it with abundant
saliva. The horns may for some days remain projecting from the
mouth of the serpent, but even these eventually manage to pass.
Pythons of ordinary dimensions are very plentiful in Sarawak, and
account for many domestic fowls and their eggs ; in this, however,
they have a competitor in the “ biawak,” a big lizard (Momitor
bivittatus), which is very common, and often exceeds a yard in
length. On one occasion whilst at Singapore I saw the remains of
a gigantic python : a Chinaman passed by the verandah where I was,
carrying in two big baskets the transverse sections of the animal’s
body, some of them quite equal in diameter to a man’s thigh. The
Tuan Muda spoke of a python which he caught, measuring just 19
feet in length, which had a monkey in its stomach; and St. John
mentions another killed at Bruni, which was over twenty-nine
feet (8 métres, gI centim.) long. The Malays talk of specimens
7‘ depa’’* in length, which would be about 38 ft. 6 in., but I do not
believe that in Sarawak well-authenticated cases of pythons exceed-
ing 20 feet have ever been recorded.
Amongst the snakes I often kept alive I may mention the “ ular
bunga,” or flower-snake (Tvagops prasinus), a long, slender, elegant
creature of a brilliant green, which is said to be tameable. Another
species which was common in the meadows around our residence
was Dendrophis prasinus, which is rarely more than three feet in
length and as thick as one’s finger. It frequents swampy places and
feeds on frogs, which it catches by fascinating them. I once wit-
nessed an instance of this myself. Being on our verandah one day,
I was attracted by a persistent and strange croaking emitted by
some frogs in a small streamlet a few paces from where I stood. I
went to see what was the cause, and found a frog, of a species common
around Kuching, which was uttering most lamentable sounds.
Hardly a hand’s breadth from it was a snake with erected head,
staring at it and quite motionless. The frog was also quite still,
poised upright on its hind legs, the front legs being extended, and
with one jump it might have escaped, but it remained as if hypnotised,
and fell an immediate prey to its enemy. But I avenged the poor
victim immediately after, killing the snake with a smart blow from
a thin stick across its back. This is an excellent method of captur-
ing small snakes without danger, and without spoiling them as speci-
mens. I found that a shot in the head with a small charge of dust-
shot was the best way of dealing with large snakes.
Some of the Bornean reptiles produce singular sounds. The com-
¢
1 A “depa’’ is about 5 ft. 6 in., and is the distance between the tips of
the fingers, holding the arms extended.
34
1] FLYING LIZARDS
monest amongst them is a gecko, the “ chichak,” which name imitates
perfectly the cry it produces ; and at Government House they could
be heard and seen every evening chasing moths attracted by the
lights on the ceiling of the dining room. Some fell on the table, nearly
always at the expense of their very fragile tail. A much louder and
more characteristic cry is that of Gontocephalus borneensis, a large
lizard which lives on trees and has a high and serrated crest down
its back. The Malays call this lizard *“‘ kog-go,” an imitation of
its call-note, which is frequently repeated. The cry of this species,
like that of the wa-wa, is so singular that one can hardly believe
that it is not produced by some bird; and it is one of those,
with others even more frequent of the cicadas and hornbills, that
most impress the traveller who is not yet accustomed to their daily
occurrence.
Several poisonous snakes are found in Borneo, amongst others
the Trigonocephalus waglert, of which the Malays assert that the
potency of its poison is such, that when a person is bitten by it he
has not even time to take off his jacket before falling dead. In
Kuching the cobra (Naja tv1pudians) is found, but it is not common.
As a matter of fact, during my whole stay in Borneo I never once
heard of a death caused by snake-bite.'
Amongst the various small reptiles which we were able to collect
in our neighbourhood the most singular were the flying lizards (Draco),
the “‘belalang sumbak” of the Malays. These surprising little
creatures can be seen at any moment during the hot hours of the
day flying through the air from one palm tree to another by the aid
of the membranous expansion with which the sides of their bodies
are provided. When they take their spring they start with the
head downwards; when they reach their destination they alight
with the head upwards. We used to get these flying lizards with
the ““sumpitan”’ or blow-tube, of which I shall speak further on,
but instead of darts we used clay bullets.
In Borneo there are not only flying lizards, but also flying squirrels,
flying foxes, flying frogs, and, could we believe the Malays, flying
snakes. Of the latter I have seen none, nor do I know of any such
mentioned in any scientific work. It is not impossible, however,
that in the unexplored parts of Borneo, yet unknown to naturalists,
a tree-snake may exist capable of spreading out the skin of its sides
1 The collection of reptiles formed by Doria and myself in Borneo con-
tained eighty-eight species, of which nineteen were new to science. They
were described by Peters and Doria in a paper published in the Annali del
Museo Civico dt Genova, vol. ili., p. 27, pl. ii.iv. Genoa, 1872. A general list
of the Reptilia and Batrachia Anura of Borneo has been published by M. F.
Moguard in Nouvelles Archives du Musée d Histoire Naturelle, 3 série,
vol. Xil., p. 115. Paris, 1890. The species enumerated are 204 ; of which
three are crocodiles, forty-nine lizards, 103 snakes and forty-nine frogs.
35
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
to such an extent as to form a parachute enabling it to float from
one tree to another. It is well known that the cobras (Naja) can
spread out the side skin of the fore part of the body, and could they
do this lower down they would be exactly like the flying lizards, in
which the skin-folds of the flanks are spread on free and lengthened
ribs. I may add that not only do the Malays and Dyaks believe in
the existence of flying snakes, but they have a name for them, and
call them “ ular teddong-kumbang.”’* It should also be mentioned
that the Malays are most excellent observers of nature, and are well
acquainted with all forms of forest life. I can assert on my own
experience that I have never found their information 1n such matters
without foundation.
The flying frog of Borneo (Rhacophorus reinwardti) is described
and figured by Wallace in his well-known book on the Malay Archi-
pelago ; but it must be rare in that part of Borneo I visited, for I
never had the good fortune to meet with it.
Besides bats and flying foxes (Pteropus), other flying mammals can
be seen any day in Sarawak. The commonest are the flying squirrels
(Pteromys), which I have already mentioned. But the strange
Galeopithecus volans is also abundant, and can easily be kept in
captivity. The skin expansions of this curious creature are more
developed than those of Pteromys, and not only do they make an
efficacious parachute, but afford an ample cloak for the animal to
envelope itself during the daytime, when it sleeps. Flight in these
animals, in whom aerial locomotion was not a primitive condition to
which the entire organism has been co-ordinated, affords ample
ground for philosophical speculations. Considerations of safety,
and the necessity of being able to pass rapidly from one tree to
another may have supplied the needed stimulus, in a given species,
to endeavour to add to its powers of locomotion by adopting flight.
In other members of the same class, special powers in jumping or in
running may have a similar explanation. I have always thought
that there must have been a formative epoch, in which every crea-
ture had the power of special adaptation to its own needs—nay,
even to its own wishes or caprice. In this epoch of ‘ plasmation,”
if I may so term it, when the so-called force of heredity—which tends
to reproduction according to the type of the progenitor—had but
little power, the world being still young, the organism must have
been far more susceptible of modification by external forces, and the
limbs more ready to adapt themselves to special usage. Considering
the very great number of animals that can fly, and how varied they
are, it is plausible to suppose that in the higher organisms the desire
to press upwards and skywards, whether to escape danger, seek food,
or to enjoy the heat and light, must have been general. This desire,
' In the Sarawak Gazette of January 4, 1886, flying snakes are mentioned
and it is added that there are two species of them.
36
m1] THE MAMMALS OF BORNEO
which manifests itself often in man in dreams, and which in dreams
he often realises, is not easy to explain, or to connect with physio-
logical phenomena depending on innervation or circulation ; but it
is conceivable, during the epoch in which the entire organism
of every living being was more easily adaptable to external condi-
tions, and could be modified in form according to the stimuli felt,
that certain organs, in animals influenced by desire or necessity to
leave the ground, may have been so far modified as to become adapted
to aerial locomotion, as a consequence of phenomena analogous in
their nature to those which come into play with us when we dream
that we are flying.
As animals provided with organs of flight which were not origi-
nally destined to that manner of locomotion are relatively numerous
in Borneo, it must be presumed that some peculiarity in the nature
of the country they inhabit must have contributed towards this
very special kind of modification. Such a peculiarity appears to
me to he in the fact that Borneo, like all countries with an analogous
fauna, 1s a densely tree-clad region, and was formerly, without
doubt, one unbroken primeval forest from the sea coasts to the
summits of its highest mountains. The only bare ground at that
period was the narrow wave-washed strip of its coast-line. This
explains how in Borneo and Malaysia generally land animals, in
the restricted sense of the term, could hardly prosper and multiply
as would those of arboreal habit. If the Malayan mammals be
compared, for example, with those of Africa, the difference is enor-
mous. In Africa most of the Mammalia are adapted to move and
live on extensive plains,and most of them are swift of foot. In
Malaysia, on the other hand, arboreal animals far outnumber the
others, and hence, when it comes to rapid movement, the most suit-
able method of attaining it is by flight.
In illustration of the above remarks we may now glance for a
moment at the most important of the Bornean mammals.
All the species of apes and monkeys inhabiting Borneo, fifteen
or sixteen in number, live on trees in the forest ; many, probably,
never come down to the ground, while others descend only occa-
sionally. Even the Carnivora are mostly arboreal. The tiger, the
biggest terrestrial carnivore of Southern Asia, is wanting, and its
place is taken by the peculiar tree-leopard (Felis nebulosa)—the
““rimau dahan ” of the Malays. There are different kinds of Viver-
ridae and wild cats which come to the ground by night in search of
prey, but all retreat to the trees and remain hidden during the
day.
The binturong (Arctictis binturong) is so essentially arboreal in
its habits that it has acquired a prehensile tail, and though the
* bruan,” or Malayan bear (Helarctos malayanus), does occasionally
o/
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
come to the ground to ravage the nests of ants or termites, it generally
keeps up trees, and has a predilection for the honey of the wild
bees which it gets there.
The Bornean Carnivora which are not arboreal are aquatic or
semi-aquatic ; such are some otters and the rare Cynogale bennett’.
A singular exception is the “ anjin utan,” a kind of wild dog (Cyon
rutilans), which I have never seen. All the squirrels, and they are
many, are arboreal ; and so are the insectivorous tupaias, of which
several species are known.
Various species of rats and mice, and some insectivores found in
Borneo, are, no doubt, terrestrial in their habits, and live in burrows
in the ground or in the hollows of tree-trunks ; they are thus hardly
to be considered cursorial mammals, and are of small size. Among
true terrestrial mammals are several Ungulates ; but of these the
rhinoceros (Rk. sumatrensis) and the tapir (T. indicus), although
adapted for existence in unwooded regions, are also perfectly organ-
ised to wander amid dense vegetation, where their weight and size
ensures an easy passage. For these, however, swiftness is not a
necessity, for they have no enemies they need be afraid of. On the
other hand, the wild pigs, of which, according to Everett,’ there are
no less than six species on the island, are perfectly fitted for rapid
movement through the forest undergrowth.
The “ banteng” of the Malays (Bos sondaicus) is a noble crea-
ture, the largest ruminant in Borneo. It is not so scarce and keeps
to the jungle, and especially to the forest of second growth, in the
interior. The diminutive plandok, or chevrotain (Tvagulus),
appears to be a true forest animal, as also the “ kidjan”’ (Cervulus
miuntyac), another small deer with non-branching horns. The
““rusa,” a true stag, is found mostly in clearings, in old rice-fields,
or on hills covered with lalang grass. It appears, I might say,
as analien amongst the forest fauna of the country, and, asa matter
of fact, one may suspect that it has been introduced by man.
The Malays distinguish the ‘“‘ rusa balum,” with doubly branched
horns, and the “‘rusa lalang,” smaller and with bifurcated horns.
A third species is also said by some to exist in Borneo.
We find then, in the island, a bare dozen of Ungulates adapted
to run and roam on plains, but already modified for forest life, against
over 150 species of mammals belonging to other Orders, of which
two-thirds are strictly arboreal when not aerial (Chiroptera). This
shows to what an extent the primeval forest has impeded the evolu-
tion or perpetuation of terrestrial mammals (in the sense of dwellers
on the ground), and especially of those which are fleet of foot.
Deer and pigs are the chief large game to be had in Sarawak.
The former, however, are not found in the immediate vicinity of
L 27S... 18330.
38
mf BIG GAME IN SARAWAK
Kuching, but must be sought in the clearings on the territories of
the Singhi or Serambo Dyaks, some miles away. Wild pigs are
common everywhere, and often do much damage to plantations.
At Kuching I shot and preserved the entire skeleton of a boar
which was of unusual size, measuring 4 ft.g in. from the root of the
tail to the end of the snout, with a diameter of over 16 in. at its
widest girth. It was remarkable for the extreme length of the head,
which was prolonged into a narrow and sharply-pointed snout.
39
CEN PA RIN,
Missions—BisHop MacDouGsaLt—Up THE BaATANG-LUPAR—THE BoRE—
BANTENG—CHRISTIANISED DyAKS—NEPENTHES BICALCARATA—SIMANG-
GAN—UNDUP—THE SEA-DYaAkKS
HE head of the Protestant mission in North Borneo was then
the Right Rev. F. T. MacDougall, Bishop of Labuan and
Sarawak. He was a highly distinguished man, but judging from
appearances one would scarcely have supposed him to be a dignitary
of the Church. He was a skilfulsurgeonand at the same time a
brave warrior, and had distinguished himself in the latter capacity
in various expeditions for the suppression of piracy. His birth-
place was Malta, and as he spoke Italian fairly our intimacy grew
apace. His hospitable house was ever open to us, and we often
were his welcome guests. And,as I write, a feeling of gratitude for
the memory of our friendship arises in my heart.
The Sarawak mission had various stations in localities widely
separated and distant from the capital. It was possessed, however,
of a good cutter, which the worthy bishop, who was also an excellent
sailor, used to navigate himself when he visited his flock in those
distant stations. He invited me to go with him on one of these
tours : an inspection of the missions on the Batang-Lupar.* It was
an excellent opportunity of seeing a different part of the country,
and of visiting the Sea-Dyaks in their own domain, of whom I had,
until then, only seen a few in the bazaars at Kuching.
On September rst we left our moorings and descended the river~ to
the Maratabas (perhaps more correctly Muara tabas) mouth, where
we anchored for the night.
The next morning was fine, and, aided by the land-breeze and
with the tide in our favour, for the breeze soon slackened, we soon
passed Pulo Burong, and eventually cast anchor for the night at
the mouth of the Batang-Lupar. The river is at this point about
three miles wide, but it has a bar with shallow water (about ten feet
at low tide) which only permits small vessels to enter. At certain
periods of the month, navigation on the Batang-Lupar is dangerous,
even for small vessels, on account of the “ bore,” caused by high tides
meeting the descending waters of the river and forming a wave, or a
1 “ Batang’”’ in Malay means “ the trunk of a tree,’ but it also signifies
the principal part of the course of a big river.
40
CHAP. Iv| BANTENG
succession of big waves, which advance with extraordinary velocity’
up the river, carrying all before them. This phenomenon is most
marked when the tide is strongest ; thus during full moon and new
moon the bore is at its maximum, and at such times woe betide’
those who are unfortunate enough to be caught by it on the river.
The bore-wave, which is about six feet high, advances with a foaming
crest across the entire width of the river with a velocity of several.
miles per hour. It is felt about ten miles inside the mouth of the
river, and penetrates also the Lingga, which is the first affluent of
the Batang-Lupar, continuing up the main stream for about thirty
miles, a loud roar announcing its advent. The singular width of
the first part of the Batang-Lupar, quite out of proportion to the.
length of the stream, is, perhaps, an effect of the bore, which has-
carried away the banks and thus widened the bed of the river.
For the safe navigation of the river, exact information regarding
the season of the stronger tides and the time at which they flow is
essential. It is also necessary to take a local pilot who knows the
places uninfluenced by the bore, or so protected that a boat can safely
wait until it has passed. But, notwithstanding these precautions,
fatal accidents frequently occur.
On the morning of September 3rd we ascended the river as far as
the mouth of the Lingga, an affluent on the left bank at about twenty
miles from the sea. We entered the latter and proceeded up stream
for about ten miles, when we sighted Banteng, a hill which looks as
if it blocked up the river. On its summit we could make out the
mission house, the residence of the missionary, Mr. Chambers. The
villages of the Balu—for such is the name of this tribe of Sea-
Dyaks—are clustered around on the hill at its feet, and on the river
bank.
The mission house is a wooden structure, very comfortable, and
in a lovely position. Shaded by gigantic durian trees, its verandah
overlooks the river, for on that side the hill is steep-to. The view
over the distant plain and the winding stream, with a high isolated
mountain, Gunong Lingga, rising in the foreground, is magnifi-
cent. The summit of the Banteng hill is flat and somewhat ex-
tended ; along it isa kind of avenue formed by huge durians and other
fruit-bearing trees, at the end of which is the mission church. Most
of the day passed in religious services, the church being crowded
with converted Dyaks and catechumens. The converts dress differ-
ently from the other Dyaks, wearing trousers and shirt, but I cannot
say that it improved them in looks. The native costume shows to
singular advantage their statuesque and well-modelled figures, and
though scant, is much more healthy in a climate where dress 1s a
superfluity. The exaggerated sense of shame which leads to the
clothing of every part of the body is a product of the inclement
North, and is a result of the real need of defence against cold; and
AI
IN BORNEAN: FORESTS [ CHAP. Iv
thus we find that the sentiment is one which diminishes in proportion
as we advance from the temperate to the tropical zone.
On the morning of September 4th, we descended the Lingga, and
re-entering the Batang-Lupar made our way up-stream to Simang-
gan. The country which we traversed was by no means interesting,
for the river runs through a plain where the primeval forest has been
destroyed nearly entirely, and its place taken here and there by
rice fields. :
At one period some of the boldest piratical tribes in Borneo had —
their stronghold in this river, and with those of the Seribas were
long the terror of the coast. They were reduced to order by Rajah
Brooke and Admiral Keppel, who destroyed Pamotus, their principal
stronghold.
Simanggan is one of the most populous centres of the Sea-Dyaks.
A fort, built on a slight eminence on he tleft bank, commands the
river, which is at this place about one hundred yards wide. The fort
is built entirely of timber, square in shape, with a small tower at each
corner. It mounted some guns, and the Rajah has garrisoned it with
a strong detachment of native soldiers.
We spent the night at this place, and early next morning pro-
ceeded along a good pathway inland to Undup, a large and populous
Dyak village and also a mission station. The path crossed an
untouched primeval forest, which had probably been allowed to
stand because it covered low, marshy, ground, which could hardlv
be brought under cultivation. Such places in our climate would be
mere marshes, but here they are covered with tall forest trees. True
aquatic and marsh plants are uncommon in Borneo, but a large
number of trees in that island, palms, aroids, etc., may be almost
considered as such, for their roots are always wet. On this occasion,
I was able to do but little for my botanical collections, but I was
glad of the opportunity of getting an idea of this portion of the
country, as I intended later to return fora long stay. I was fortunate
enough, however, to meet with some specimens of Nepenthes bical-
cavata, which is certainly one of the most curious of all the Bornean
pitcher-plants. Our excursion only lasted a few days, and on
September 13th we were back in Kuching.
This little trip with Bishop MacDougall gives me an opportunity
of saying a word or two on the Sea-Dyaks. The Land-Dyaks I
prefer to leave for the present, until I come to speak of my doings
in the country in which they live.
The villages of the Sea-Dyaks are situated in the territory between
the Sadong and Rejang rivers. The more warlike and enterprising
tribes at sea have been those of the Seribas and of the Sakarrang,
one of the branches of the Batang-Lupar river. Some tribes of the
Rejang, the Kanowit, and especially the Ketibas, were at the period
of which I write not yet quite subject to the government of the
42
t
3
t
?
fF
3
Fig. I11.—SEA-DYAKS OF THE SERIBAS.
(Armed with Sumpitan and Parang Ilang.)
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. IV
Rajah, and had not given up head-hunting. The Sibuyo Sea-
Dyaks live on the Lundu river, near the westernmost point
of Borneo. This tribe is said to have migrated from the lake
region on the frontier of Sarawak, between the Batang-Lupar and the
Kapuas river.*
The Sea-Dyaks are usually of middle height or rather small ;
the taller men rarely exceed 5 ft. 5)im., and 5 ft. 3) im=)amayebe
considered their average stature. They are stoutly built, with broad
chests and well-proportioned limbs, although not usually showing
any great muscular development (Fig. 11). The skin is brown and
often a shade lighter than in the Malays; the face broad, with very
prominent cheek-bones ; but the lower jaw is weak and the chin
pointed. Their expression, however, is calm and resolute. The
eyes are straight and not sunken ; the nose is always snub, but not
depressed, often straight, but with very wide ale. They have no
hair on the face; that on the head, black and smooth, is worn tied
up into a knot or else very long and loose behind, but cut more or
less in front.
The women are always smaller than the men, and have the nose
somewhat more flattened, and the forehead narrower. Even when
quite young, they are less elegantly shaped than the men, and always
rather clumsy in their gait ; they are, however, often well formed
and have a pleasing face, but very Mongoloid in its character
(Fig. 13). They usually wear the bedang, a kind of short
petticoat, wrapped tightly round the waist, and hardly reaching the
knees ; it consists merely of a piece of dark-coloured cotton cloth
of their own make. At times they also wear a jacket or
baju. The strangest part of the dress of the Dyak women is
the collection of rings of thick brass wire, for which rings of rotangs
(rattans) are substituted in the poorer classes. These are worn in
great profusion round the waist, and besides fixing the bedang,
effectually cover the abdomen.” The head is usually uncovered,
but on festive occasions special head-dresses are to be seen, such as
the highly characteristic “ s¢sty’ of silver worn by the Seribas girls
(Fig. 12). Often necklaces of glass beads and bracelets of silver
are worn, but more commonly the forearm up to the elbow is
covered with a spiral of close-fitting rings of thick brass wire.
The usual dress of the men consists merely of the “yawat,’ a
piece of cloth passed between the legs and secured round the waist,
hanging with the ends in front and behind. This cloth is at the
present day usually of European manufacture, but many still wear
1 Low. Sarawak, p. 167.
2 A similar costume is worn by the Kachin women in Burma, and the
Karin, who have so many traits in common with the Dyaks, cover the body and
limbs with big spirals of brass wire. (FEA, Quattri anni fra i Birmant, pp. 204,
465, 466, figs. 152, 153. Mulano, 1896.)
44
Fig, 12,—GIRL OF THE SERIBAS DYAKS WEARING
THE SILVER Szsir,
IN BORNEAN FORESTS | CHAP.
the original native article, made by beating the bark of different
trees, or else woven in cotton, and similar to that used for the
bedang of the women. On the head the men wear a piece of
cotton cloth, elegantly. folded, or else a piece of bark cloth
dyed yellow, and not infrequently ornamented with the black
and white feathers of the hornbill, or of other large birds, which
contribute greatly to the elegance of such a head-dress:
The most characteristic ornament of certain tribes of the Seribas and
Sakarrang Dyaks consists of the huge brass rings they wearin their
ears. Through the biggest rings the fist can easily pass, and these
hang below; above are smaller ones, gradually diminishing, and
surrounding the entire margin of the ear, which is for this purpose
bored with holes all round. Around the neck they wear necklaces
of glass beads or teeth, the latter sometimes human. On the upper
arm a thick ring of white shell is very frequently worn, and the
forearm is covered with a spiral of brass wire reaching the elbow.
Similar spirals are worn on the legs, below the knee. The ornaments
worn on the head, neck, arms, legs, etc., etc., and many other minor
peculiarities in dress, are far from being of a uniform type, and often
are distinctive and characteristic of each tribe.
The favourite weapons of the Sea-Dyaks are spears and the
‘“sumpitan,” usually combined; but most characteristic is the
peculiar long knife or kris called the ‘‘ parang-ilang.”” In addition to
these they have a kind of sword. For defence they use big shields
of a light wood, and padded jackets, an efficient protection against
the small poisoned darts blown through the sumpitan. Of these,
and also of the parang-ilang, I shall speak at greater length further
on. The sumpitan darts are carried in a small bamboo quiver, about
fourteen inches in length and three inches in diameter, worn on
the side and secured by a hook to the waist-cloth. The Dyaks are
poor hands at throwing the spear, and very inferior in this respect
to the Papuans and other primitive tribes. They excel, however,
in the use of the parang, both in war and for sundry domestic
purposes.
The use in warfare of the arme blanche, which can only be wielded
effectually at close quarters, ought to prove great personal courage
in those who use it. But although I do not wish to deny a certain
amount of this quality to the Dyaks, yet it must nevertheless be
confessed that their warfare consists always in sudden assaults on
people who cannot defend themselves. Their war expeditions,
indeed, do not deserve such a name, for they hardly ever consist in
a battle between armed parties, but in sudden attacks and treacher-
ous surprises, though often the exploits of Dyak warriors are strictly
personal.
The expeditions of the Sea-Dyaks are less for the sake of glory or
of booty than for the purpose of procuring heads. It does not matter
46
Iv | THE ‘SEA DYAKS
whether these be taken from defenceless or unsuspecting victims,
man or woman, or from harmless villagers, surprised in their sleep.
The prowess and bravery of the warrior is secure in the eyes of his
fellow tribesmen and neighbours if he be only in possession of
the coveted trophy. It has been said, and the assertion is quite
true, that the title-deeds of nobility amongst the Dyaks consist
of the number of heads a man and his ancestors have collected.
Not infrequently a Dyak starts on a head-hunting expedition
by himself, as a relaxation or to wear off the effects of a domestic
squabble, just as with us a man might go out rabbit-shooting to
get over an attack of ill-humour. To obtain a head is for these
savages the acme of glory, and the rejoicings and festivities held on
such occasions are considered by them harbingers of happiness and
plenty, bringing fine weather and good crops of rice and fruits,
abundance of fish and game, no less than health, and fertility in
women. For a Dyak it is on given occasions an absolute duty to
get a head; as, for example, to gain the affection of their lady-love
by a palpable proof of their prowess, or to enable them to go out of
mourning for the death of a relative.
The bangkong or war canoes of the Dyaks (Fig. 14) are specially
constructed and quite different from the Malay sampan. Some are
quite eighty feet in length, and are light and very fast. They can
be taken to pieces, being constructed of planks bound together by
ligatures of rotang. When a party of Sea-Dyaks on one of their war
expeditions found themselves surprised by an enemy of greater
strength, they would run ashore, take their canoes to pieces, and
disperse with the planks in the forest, where it was impossible to
follow them.
During my stay in Sarawak no warlike expeditions of the Sea-
Dyaks occurred, but it is not so very long ago, as St. John tells us,
that the Sakarrang and Seribas Dyaks used to put to sea with as
many as 200 war canoes, extending their head-hunting expeditions
as far as the Natunas and Pontianak. The same author narrates that
sometimes when overtaken at sea by bad weather these Dyaks
would jump overboard to lighten their canoe, holding on or swim-
ming alongside, and if there were sharks about they took the pre-
caution to tow astern a bundle of roots of *“‘ tuba ”’ (used for stupe-
fying and catching fish), to keep them off.
It is said of the Sakarrang and Seribas Dyaks that within the
memory of man they were peaceable and inoffensive, although they
did take a few heads from inland tribes ; but afterwards the Malays
and Lanuns took advantage of their skill as warriors, and joined
them in piratical expeditions along the coast, for the Dyaks were
content with the heads alone, and left the booty to their associates.
When a small party consisting of two or three Sea-Dyaks start
on a head-hunting expedition, they only take salt with them as
47
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP. IV
provisions, feeding entirely on leaves, the young shoots of palms
or bamboos, and the wild fruit they find in the forest. They do not
object to any kind of food, and are very fond of hunting wild pigs,
which are considered a great delicacy ; but almost every animal
is eaten by them. Whilst at home their staple food is rice; they
also cultivate bananas, sweet potatoes, and sugar-cane, as well as
tobacco and cotton.
On the religion, superstitions, and legends of the Dyaks much
has been published, both in English and in Dutch. But I made no
particular attempt to gather further materials on so interesting a
subject, to do which a thorough knowledge of the language, which
I could not claim to be possessed of, is necessary. Moreover, during
my wanderings I generally kept away from the Dyak villages, around
which the primeval forest was either absent or greatly modified, and
afforded me little of interest.
According to St. John * the Sea-Dyaks believe in the following
deities :—
In a Supreme Being called “ Batara.”
In “ Stampandei,” who presides over generation.
In ‘“‘ Pulang Gana,” who gives fertility to the soil.
In “ Singalang Burong,” the god of war.
5) In “ Nattiang,’ * who inhabits the tops of mountains and
is apparently a good spirit.
(6) In “ Apei Sabit Berkait,” a spirit hostile to Nattiang,
and of opposite nature.
The Sea-Dyaks are great lovers of festivities, and appear to know
how to enjoy themselves. On such occasions they go through end-
less ceremonies with music and singing, and partake of interminable
banquets with a huge profusion of food of all kinds, during which
they drink abundantly of their native toddy or palm-wine, or of
arak. The first is obtained from the fermentation of the saccharine
juice which flows from the incised inflorescence of the Avenga
saccharifera; the arak is made from fermented rice, by a pro-
cess which the Dyaks probably learnt from the Chinese. By a
similar process they also make an arak from the fruits of the Tam-
pue, botanically, Hedycarpus malayanus, Jack.
The principal feasts of the Dyaks are celebrated for the planting
of rice, and to commemorate a death, especially if during an expe-
dition on which heads have been obtained. On the latter occasions
an ancient song in praise of Singalang Burong, the Dyak Mars, is
sung. This, which is called ‘“‘ Mengap,” has been handed down
from generation to generation, and is in a dialect which is almost
1 Op. cit. I. p. 60.
2 This corresponds, perhaps, to “‘ Nat”? of the Burmese. (Cf. FEA, Op. cit.
pp. 158, 159, 385.)
48
‘ONIAVEM SMVAC SVEINAS AHL 40 NVWOM—'EI ‘3Iy
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. IV
unintelligible even to those well acquainted with the Dyak
language.
- Head-hunting is not, indeed, restricted to the Dyaks of Borneo,
but is found amongst many peoples of the Indian Archipelago from
Sumatra to New Guinea and beyond. In past ages it was pro-
bably practised in many other countries where civilisation has now
caused it to become obsolete. The custom must, however, be
looked upon neither as an expression of savage brutality, nor as a
sort of collector’s mania for accumulating the proofs of acts of
bravery, as a sportsman keeps the trophies of the big game he has
killed. The psychological motive which from generation to gener-
ation has influenced, and in a certain way consecrated, such a
barbarous custom, is probably analogous to that which maintains
—or used to maintain—amongst some tribes the custom of human
sacrifices. The ardent desire in a Dyak for the possession of a
head is always the outcome of a superstitious sentiment, of a duty
to be performed, to propitiate or to earn ihe favour of a spirit, or to
serve and benefit the soul of a dead relative or chief.
The Sea-Dyaks have not a special “‘ head-house,” such as the
Land-Dyaks have, which is that in which the unmarried men live.
They suspend the heads they have collected over the fireplace, in
the middle part of the verandah of the common dwelling-house.
A Dyak house is an assemblage of apartments, inhabited by
various families ; the quarters of each being partitioned off. Each
division is called a “ pintu,’? which means, literally, “a door.”
These long houses, in which many families congregate, must have
originated in an insecure country to facilitate defence in case of an
attack by a hostile tribe.
The Sea-Dyaks enjoy a free and easy kind of life. There is no
parish clerk to register every birth and death in the community.
They have solved the problem of conjugal and family life in the
simplest manner. It is not rare to find amongst them men and
women who have been married seven or eight times before meeting
the mate with whom they could end their days in peace. A girl of
sixteen or seventeen years of age may have already had two or
three husbands, and is not for that reason less respected. The
causes of divorce are many, and often absurd or capricious, but this
never causes serious inconvenience. Our vaunted civilisation,
the cumulative product of centuries of ignorant prejudices and
foolish customs, finds insurmountable difficulties where they would
not exist, if, in lieu of moral convention, the simple laws of Nature
and hygiene were but followed.
The Dyaks are very superstitious and are always in a state of
anxious pre-occupation regarding the spirits, or “* Antu,” which they
1 This song has been transcribed and printed by the Rev. J. Perham in the
Sarawak Gazette, No. 130, April, 1877.
50
2)
Fig 14, —LANDING-PLACE OF THE SEA-DYAKS, WITH OFFERINGS
g.
TO THE SPIRITS, AND A ‘‘ BANGKONG.”’
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. IV
fancy they see everywhere and recognise in any strange or un-—
usual sound. They believe that these “ Antu” wander in the
forests, hiding in the hollow trunks of trees, or else among rocks or
on the tops of hills, their sole business being the care of the affairs
of mankind. To find out the intentions of the spirits regarding
them, especially in times of trouble or danger, the Dyaks endeavour
to draw omens from the heart of a sacrificed pig, or from the flight
and appearance of certain birds. Everything which appears to
them as supernatural, especially cases of sickness, is attributed to
evil spirits, and they have “‘ medicine-men” or shamans, whom
they call ‘“‘ Manang,”’ who are consulted on these occasions. These
‘“ doctors,” among other peculiarities, go about dressed as women
and charge themselves with the duty of exorcising the evil spirits
producing the disease. The same result is supposed to be attained
by depositing offerings in diminutive huts built on purpose at the
landing-places or near the village.
The Sea-Dyaks inter their dead, but to this rule there appear to
be exceptions. Thus certain shamans or priests called “‘ Mulana,”’
are placed after death on a raised platform : a custom practised
elsewhere in the Eastern Archipelago, especially among the Papuans,
but which in this case might suggest that followed by the Parsees,
who, as is well known, place their dead on towers built for that
purpose.
It can hardly be doubted that certain beliefs amongst the Dyaks
are derived from more highly-civilised people or from wandering
apostles of various creeds and religions coming from the Asiatic
continent. To such contacts must be traced their tradition re-
garding the Deluge, which is very like the Biblical one ;+ and the
belief in Paradise and in Hell, called by them ‘“ Sabayana,”’ and
supposed to be divided into seven different stories.?
1 Cf. R. J. PeruHam, A Sea-Dyak Tradition of the Deluge, in the Sarawak
Gazette, No. 133, July, 1877.
25 Cieot JOHN. Op cits len p05:
(ClaU MEINE \V/
ON THE SERAMBO Hitt—LAND-DYAK VILLAGE AND HEAD-HovusE— PININ-
JAU—PoORPHYRITIC HiILLS—TRUE AND FALSE SWIFTS WITH EDIBLE
NESTS—WALLACE AND His NocTURNAL MotH-HUNTING—GUNONG
SKUNYET—VEGETATION OF THE SECONDARY FORESTS—DYAK PATH-
WAYS—LIMESTONE CLIFFS AND THEIR CAVES—THE DURIAN—NOTES ON
THE LAND-DYAKS
E had been more than four months in Sarawak and as yet
we knew nothing of the Land-Dyaks, although from our
verandah we could see the hills on which they lived.
The desire to visit some of their villages was thus most natural ;
and acting upon it, on the night of November Ist, when the tide was
in our favour, we took our sampan with our own men and sufficient
provisions, and started for a week on the Serambo hill, where the
Rajah had a wooden bungalow used as a country villa and sana-
torium. The tide carried us as far as Lida-tana (i.e., “ Tongue of
Land ’’), about fourteen miles above Kuching, where the Sarawak
river divides into two branches. We took the one on our right,
which turns abruptly to the west. The current was now against
us, for the tide has no effect beyond Lida-tana, except at certain
seasons ; whilst, on the other hand, during the great rains when the
river is swollen—** Ayer bawa,” as the Malays express it—the tide is
only felt as far up as Kuching. It was daylight when we reached
Bilida, about seven miles above Lida-tana, and here we landed on
the left bank of the river, opposite the Serambo hill.
Blida, Bellida, or Bilida, for it is thus variously rendered, is a
small wooden fort, constructed at a time when the opposite bank
was crowned by the big Chinese village of Sinyawan, which was
destroyed during the mutiny to which I have already alluded. The
fort stands on a slight eminence on the river bank, and was con-
sidered by the Malays a strategic point, and used as such during
wars, even before Rajah Brooke came to Sarawak. It is now
deserted, and only used occasionally as a hunting lodge by Euro-
peans from Kuching, for deer are abundant in the neighbourhood,
and there are plenty of marsh-loving birds such as snipe and plover.
We found large flocks of wild pigeons on the trees growing around,
the “punar” of the Malays (Tveron vernans), and shot many of
33
IN BORNEAN FORESTS | CHAP. Vv
them as we awaited the Dyaks from the hill, whom we had sent for
to take our luggage.
These porters did not keep us waiting long, and cheerfully picked
up our traps and provisions. The pathway led at first across low
swampy grounds, once paddy or rice-fields, but now overgrown with
sedges and long lank grass such as Sclerta and “‘ lalang,’”’ and ferns.
The hill is very steep, and we more than once scrambled up per-
pendicular faces of rock by the aid of wooden ladders. After
climbing up about 300 feet or so, we reached the first village. Here
the “ Orang Kaya,’ or head man, invited us to rest in the ““ Panga”’
(Fig. 15). This is the house set apart for the residence of young
unmarried men, in which the trophy-heads are kept, and here also
all ceremonial receptions take place. It consists of a great hall of
circular shape, raised above the ground on high stout piles. The
roof is conical and pointed, and covered with a thatch of sago and
Nipa palm leaves. All round are window-like apertures which can
be closed with shutters, hung on so as to be capable of being lifted or
lowered when desired. Inside, a low bench runs round the entire
hall: it is the general sleeping couch at night and a divan by day.
In the centre is the fireplace. The entrance is an aperture in the
floor, which is reached by a notched pole.
In the “ Panga’ of Serambo were suspended all round a large
number of skulls and dried heads, just like those I had seen in the
houses of the Sea-Dyaks. Most of these had been taken from the
Chinese during the mutiny of 1857. The common dwelling-houses,
raised on piles several feet above the ground, were spread over
the hill most picturesquely in the midst of great masses of rock,
and were embowered in palms, bananas, and other fruit trees.
We did not remain long in the village, wishing to reach our
destination, Pininjau, another 300 feet higher up, without further
delay. When we got there we found that the carriers had already
arrived with our luggage. The small bungalow which was to be
our temporary abode was not situated on the actual summit of the
hill, but just below it, in a charming position. It was surrounded
by different sorts of fruit trees, especially durians and coconut
palms, but not so densely as to impede the view. Pininjau means
a place which has an extensive view, and it is well named, for we
commanded a great extent of country, and could get a compre-
hensive idea of the entire basin of the Sarawak river. Only the
mountains in which it arises were hidden from us by the summit of
Pininjau, the remainder of the horizon being open.
Towards the north the view extended to the sea, and the inter-
vening plain below us was like an immense carpet of verdure, broken
only by the river, which cleaves it in undulating curves, and can be
1 “ Kaya”’ signifies “‘ rich ”’ in Malay.
54
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IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
traced to its mouth, which is well marked by the isolated Santubong
hill. Farther to the west Singhi, the Mattang group, and in the far
distance Gunong Poe are visible. Due west no mountain chains
exist, but on the other side of the Sarawak river, and at no great
distance, the Staat hill can be made out, and a curious isolated
pillar-like rock about 200 feet high, which, I was told, is called
Gunong Bulu. Between this pillar-like rock and Gunong Gumbang
the country is flat, and across it lies the best and shortest road
leading from the territory of Sarawak into that of Sambas. Not
only is it entirely without mountains, which are, nevertheless, marked
here in almost all the maps of this part of Borneo, but not even
slight elevations are to be seen. The Dyaks have a legend that in
olden times the sea covered these lowlands, and assert that canoes
could cross from Sambas into Sarawak, which was an _ island
completely detached from Borneo.t. The view is closed by
Gunong Bunga, whose irregular and pointed peaks are extremely
picturesque. Besides the mountains mentioned, which form, as
it were, the frame of the picture, there are other elevations which
can scarcely be called either mountains or hills, but rather isolated
crags. These are of limestone formation, and in some of them veins
of antimony are found; whilst the alluvial soil all round affords
gold washings, in which a large number of Chinese are employed.
A few steps from Pininjau bungalow is a cave out of which flows
a stream of deliciously cool water, which is one of the most attractive
features of the place. On the Serambo hill are three Dyak villages :
Pininjau, Bombok, and Serambo, all situated below the bungalow.
The hill does not form part of any mountainous chain, but
rises abruptly from the plain, like the calcareous rocks above men-
tioned ; but it differs from these in its formation, consisting of
crystalline rocks of a porphyritic nature. To this formation, too,
belongs Singhi, and also probably some of the adjoining hills, whose
geological structure I was not able to examine closely.
Round about Pininjau bungalow numbers of a small swift were
continually flying. We secured specimens for preservation, and
found that it was Collocalia linchit, Horsf. & Moore. This is a
species often confused with the other producing the gelatinous nests
so highly esteemed by the Chinese. The Dyaks brought us its
nests, which we found to be made mostly of moss glued together by
a small quantity of the prized gelatinous substance. The nests of
good quality are, however, formed entirely of this white and trans-
1 Cf. regarding this legend, W. DENIson, On Land-Dyaks, in Sarawak
Gazette, No. 125, November 1876, who writes: “In old days they say ships
and boats came right across from what is now the Sambas coast, past the
Sibungo range to Sarawak. A small columnar mountain midway between
Gumbang and Gading, called “ Ji-mas,’”’ was then only just above water, and
praus used to touch there for ballast and big stones for anchors,”
50
Vv] GUNONG SKUNYET
lucent material, with little or no admixture of feathers and other
impurities. The swifts producing the valuable edible nests (Collocalia
nidifica) inhabit the caves in the limestone hills near Serambo, and
are a source of considerable revenue to the Dyaks of the v illage.
Wallace had lived for some time at this very Pininjau bungalow,
and made some memorable captures of nocturnal lepidoptera.
They were singularly successful, but we were not so fortunate,
although many were the species which used to fly about the
verandah, attracted by our lights.
One day I started to visit one of the limestone crags in our
neighbourhood, and got some Dyaks to guide me to Gunong Skun-
yet, a small isolated eminence which rises abruptly from the plain
to the north. The route we took led us through a part which was
once cultivated, and no traces of the primeval forest remained ; in
point of fact there is no such forest around Pininjau. The ground
is varied and undulated, forming ridges and depressions ; some of
the former are covered with lalang grass, but the vegetation is
mostly that which always grows where theold forest has been cleared,
and is, composed mainly of species which havea _ wide geo-
graphical distribution, and are in no way specially representative of
the endemic flora of the island. But amongst them was an excep-
tion, a shrub belonging to the Scrophulariacee, which turned out to
be the type of a new genus, described by Bentham under the name
of Brookea dasyantha.
Most of the plants grew as bushes or large shrubs, and were
species of the genera Eurya, Adinandra, Ficus, Vernonia (an.
arboreal composite), Mappza, etc., etc., all characteristic of the forest
of secondary growth.
In the low-lying parts the path was very bad, and we sank in
mud and water to our knees, whilst elsewhere it was most difficult
to keep one’s footing on the slippery argillaceous soil. When such
paths are recently made, and lead to a new plantation of the Dyaks,
they are fairly practicable, the worst spots being improved by lay-
ing down small tree-trunks ; but these rot in a very short time, and
\ then only make matters worse, for they are apt to snap suddenly
and precipitate the traveller with scant ceremony into the mire.
In the small valleys between the hills the grasses grow tall, and
form the habitual feeding grounds of deer; but we met with none
on that occasion. It took us fully four hours to reach Gunong
Skunyet, an enormous limestone crag which rises abruptly into
peaks, is quite isolated, and most difficult of ascent. I got up toa
sort of cave or fissure which penetrated the cliff, but I did not even
attempt to climb to the summit.
In limestone cliffs such as these the rock is full of holes, ero-
sions, fissures, and caves ; and the configuration often most fantastic,
and so sharply pointed ‘and jagged that climbing was a painful
57
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. V
business, wearing, as I did, thin-soled cloth shoes, wet and sodden
into the bargain by the previous wading through mud and water.
I thus gave up the attempt to get to the top, which could only have
been done by means of the creepers and roots, which, not unlike
gigantic serpents, hung from the perpendicular face of the rock.
This was so precipitous as to bein many places quite bare—a rare
case in Borneo—-whilst along the summit of the cliff the vegetation
grew like a huge crest.
The erosions in the limestone are no doubt due to the atmo-
spheric agency taking effect in those places where the rocky mass
presents inequalities of composition. But the big fissures and the
caves, so frequent in rocks of this kind, must be a consequence of their
origin. If, as I believe, these peculiar limestone crags are of madre-
poric origin, they are the result of an accumulation of inorganic
matter deposited by polyps in the sea. Everyone who has had
occasion to examine living corals or madreporic rocks in situ, and
has noted how the polyps multiply, can easily understand how
caverns may form in the rocks they give rise to. In a coral rock
in process of formation, the polyps at work very rarely grow in a
uniform manner, and never form compact masses—interspaces and
hollows frequently occurring between one colony and another.
When such interspaces are extensive, as in the case of colonies
growing separately and coming into contact later in the progress
of their growth, fissures or caverns necessarily result, which are not
less marked in the rock when it has emerged from the sea than in its
former submarine condition.
The non-calcareous hills and mountains in Borneo, however
precipitous, may always be distinguished by their smooth and
rounded outline, which is partly due also to the vegetation which
contrives to take root even in the smallest crannies. And this
vegetation does not consist only of grasses, mosses, or small bushes,
but of large shrubs, climbers and trees, which cover every inch
available. :
I had only brought as provisions some cooked rice and a box of
sardines, but on the road we had found an addition to my dinner
in the shape of some cucumbers which the Dyaks had sowed in
their paddy-fields. Though rather bitter, these were very refreshing. |
We returned by a route only slightly different from that we had
come by, but we were under the disadvantage of walking during
the hottest hours of the day, over ground which, being covered by
forest of secondary growth, offered but a poor protection against
the sun’s rays. I was therefore very thankful when we reached
the foot of the Serambo hill, and entered a fine grove of durian trees,
under whose welcome shade we halted to rest. J brought down
some of the big fruits with a shot or two from my gun. They were
not yet quite ripe, but the pulp covering the seeds was already well
58
Fig. 16.—FRUIT OF THE DURIAN, Durio Zibetinus
(about 4 nat. size).
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
developed, and in this state I found it even more palatable than
when completely ripe. The durian is the favourite fruit of the
Dyaks, and the rich buttery pulp which surrounds the seeds is con- |
sidered most delicious by those Europeans who have been able to
overcome the strong smell of rotten garlic which it gives forth.
(Fig. 16).*
A delicious bathe in the cool and limpid spring entirely took
away the effects of the heat and the long tramp, and I was able to
sit down to dinner with a splendid appetite.
On November 7th we discovered to our dismay that our pro-
visions were running out, that our ammunition was expended, and
that the paper for preparing botanical specimens was also exhausted.
A return to Kuching became imperative, and with great regret we
were obliged to put an end to our delightful visit at Pininjau, and
to say good-bye to the good Dyaks of Serambo.
The Land-Dyaks, concerning whom I will now say a word or
two, are limited to that portion of Western Borneo which is in-
cluded between the Sadong and Pontianak rivers. A large portion,
therefore, of these people live on Dutch territory, whence it is be-
lieved that the Sarawak tribes also originally came.
These Dyaks have not the bold and arrogant look which dis-
tinguishes the Sea-Dyaks. They are quieter and milder in their
habits, and more modest in their dress. They are undoubtedly
Malayan like their sea brethren, but differ from the latter in many
respects. They arein general smaller and uglier. Some grow scanty
moustaches and a slight beard on the chin (Fig. 17). They are often
affected by a skin disease known in Borneo as “ kurap,” which is
produced by a minute acarus which penetrates beneath the epider-
mis, and is very similar, if not actually identical, to that producing
the itch. I at least recognized this amongst the Papuans and in
the Molucca Islands, where the same disease is very common and
is known by the Portuguese term of “ cascado.” °
1 T have written at some length on the durian, and on the wild species of
this fruit which growin Borneo, in my work entitled ‘Malesia’ (Vol. III. p. 230).
The durian, as I have already remarked, is unknown in the wild state ; but
considering that various wild species very nearly akin grow in the Malay
Peninsula and in Borneo, it must belong to the flora of these regions. We
are thus obliged to suppose that the durian in its present form must have
grown in the past in land then existing between Borneo and the Peninsula ;
or else that in the wild condition it has been exterminated by man in the
Bornean and Malayan forests. But we are also free to suppose that the fruit
owes the extraordinary development which it has attained to cultivation, or,
better still, to the indirect protection afforded it by primitive man. Fora
durian left to its own resources has scant chances of being able to reproduce
itself, for its fruits are gathered on the trees by monkeys and other arboreal
animals, while on the ground wild boars, attracted by the powerful smell, soon
come and devour them.
2 Cf. MatesiA, Vol. I., p. 94. Probably the acari found by the author
60
v] NOTES ON THE LAND-DYAKS
The honesty, and I may add the genuine goodness, of the Land-
Dyaks is remarkable, and they are at the same time noted for their
ingenuousness and simplicity. The Malays often take advantage
of this to impose on them. They nickname them “ Bodo,” i.e.,
“* Stupids,” and make fun of their spirits and religious ceremonies.
In past years the Land-Dyaks suffered greatly from the head-
hunting expeditions of the Sakarrang and Seribas Dyaks, by whom
they were often decimated. The Malays, too, used to victimise
them, and before the advent of Sir James Brooke forced them to
work in the antimony mines at a ridiculous rate of pay, such as a
few beads or rings of brass wire. They are now fairly prosperous.
The Rajah’s government does not require of them, nor of any of its
other native subjects, any kind of obligatory labour; and each head
of a family merely has to pay a small tax.
They grow a sufficiency of rice for their own use, with a surplus
to sell; they possess an abundance of fruit both cultivated and
wild, while the forest gives them in addition a variety of products
for their own use and for trade. They do not, like the Sea-Dyaks,
eat all kinds of food. Thus the ox—which, however, they rarely
see—is regarded as sacred, and they would not dream of eating
beef. Nor do they eat the buffalo or the goat ; and some tribes,
e.g., the Singhi, will not eat the flesh of the deer. In some cases
they even refrain from poultry. Pork, however, is regarded as a
great luxury, and wild pigs are hunted with dogs, but oftener taken
in traps called ‘‘ petti,’”’ which consist of a horizontal bamboo stake
(gerunkan), driven by a strong spring, which is released on the
animals touching a string which is placed across the path. These
traps are very dangerous for human beings who wander in-
cautiously where they are set, generally producing a frightful wound
in the knee, that being the height at which the bamboo stake or
arrow is placed to transfix the pig.
The Land-Dyaks usually cremate their dead, an unusual thing
amongst primitive peoples. They make no idols or images repre-
senting the souls of the departed. It is said, however, that on
certain occasions some tribes pay a sort of worship to wooden
figures representing birds. They have plants which they consider
sacred, such as the “ bulu gading,” or ivory bamboo; the “‘ bunga
si kudip ” (Eurycles ambonensis), mentioned by Low, which,
however, I have not myself met with in Borneo; and Dracena
terminalis, which latter appears to have followed human migration
from Southern India as far as New Guinea.
were accidental merely, for the disease known as “cascado,’’ so prevalent
in Malaysia and the Pacific Islands, is due to a vegetable parasite
(Trichophyton), and has gained its scientific name, Tinea circinata or
imbricata, from the circular and overlapping patterns it produces on the
body.—ED.
61
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
The Land-Dyaks are very superstitious, as are their fellow-
countrymen the Sea-Dyaks, and fancy that they see spirits, or
“ Antu,” as they call them, everywhere, floating in the air, and
wandering in the forest, or on the summits of the mountains.
According to Low the chief of these is “‘ Tuppa ” in the case of some
tribes, “ Jeroang”’ in others. ‘‘ Jewata” is also known, but is
Fig. I17.—LAND-DYAK, WEARING COLLAR OF BOAR’S TUSKS.
probably not a native divinity, the name being evidently derived
from the Indian “ Dewata.” “ Tuppa”’ and ‘“‘ Jeroang”’ are superior
and kindly disposed divinities, who have belonging to them certain
secondary spirits called “ Pertjia.” The bad genii they call
“Jim” (evidently the “Jin” of the Arabs); these frequent the
lower strata of the atmosphere, the other spirits keeping to
the upper regions. The “ Triu” and ‘“ Kamang” are mountain
and forest spirits; the first good, the latter maleficent, and both of
bellicose tendencies.
The Land-Dyaks, like other primitive peoples, have a super-
stitious awe of mountain tops, whither they can with difficulty be
62
v| DIVINTIIES OFT Tak LAND-DYAKS
induced to accompany travellers. They fear the spirits which they
firmly believe to be always prowling about such places. The
Dyaks imagine the “ Kamang” as having bodies covered with
reddish hair like the orang utan. It is for this reason that hairiness
in man is not only considered unclean, but also uncanny : a feeling
of repulsion which may possibly have originated generations ago
amongst the ancestors of these people, in consequence ofa hostile
invasion of a hairy race. An instinctive abhorrence to red hair
was felt also by the ancient Romans.
It may be hardly possible to trace the origin of the Dyak
divinities, although the origin of godsis doubtless subject to fixed
rules. I have no doubt that, if the Land-Dyaks were for the future
to be completely isolated from civilisation, the memory of Sir
James Brooke would be transmitted to their descendants in the
shape of a new deity. Low, in fact, asserts that in addition to
* Tuppa,’ “Jeroang,”’ the sun, the moon, and the stars, the Land-
Dyaks worship Rajah Brooke, the elder.
What especially strikes all who have studied the ways and habits
of these people are the patent and abundant traces of Hinduism
which they retain, and which may be looked upon as the remnants
of a former Hindu-Javanese domination in Borneo. I do not,
however, believe, as some do, that the Land-Dyaks are derived
from the Javanese colony of the epoch corresponding to the great
Indo-Javanese dominion, when Hindu civilisation flourished in
that island. That hypothesis is based on the discovery of ruins of
Brahmanistic buildings in Sarawak, which doubtless are referable
to that period. The manners and customs of a people do not, any
more than their religion, necessarily show their origin. Just as
there are at present in Borneo missionaries of different religions,
Mussulman and Christian, so it was probably in olden times ; and
the apostles of Hinduism may have left scant traces of their pre-
sence in the shape of descendants modifying the physical characters
of the people amongst whom they lived, but may have been com-
pletely successful in substituting their own for the original belief
of the natives.’
The houses of the Land-Dyaks are built much in the same way
as those of the Sea-Dyaks, but have a lesser number of “ fintu”’ or
apartments. A Land-Dyak village, instead of consisting, as is
often the case with those of the Sea-Dyaks, of one huge long house,
Tit may be suggested with some certainty that, if the Dyaks came ori-
ginally to Borneo from over the sea, they must have had the same ancestors
as the savage tribes who can still be traced on the islands off the West Coast of
Sumatra. The remarkable similarities which exist between the customs of
the Land-Dyaks and those of the natives of Nias, so well described by Elio
Modigliani, almost suffice to prove this. Most important of these is the
constructing of a special house in which bachelors sleep and the trophy-heads
| are hung.
63
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [cHap.
in which many families live, is composed of separate houses with
only a few families in each. The houses are rather scattered,
taking advantage of the local conditions, and mostly built in places
not easily accessible.
_ The principal article of dress amongst the Land-Dyaks is the
““sgawat,’ already described, once generally made of bark-cloth, but
now that they have grown richer often of foreign manufacture, or
else of a strong cotton cloth with variously coloured designs, woven
Fig. 18.—GIRL OF THE LAND-DYAKS,
by the women on a very primitive loom (Fig. 13). They also use a
cotton head-cloth, or one of bark-cloth of a yellow colour, but they
do not wear it with the nattiness and elegance of the Sea-Dyaks.
The women have the same kind of clothing and ornaments as
their sisters among the Sea-Dyaks—a short petticoat and similar
ornaments of brass and shell on the arms and legs (Fig. 18).
In many villages they wear a broad belt of bark-cloth called “‘ sala-
64
v| WEAPONS OF THE LAND DYAKS
dan,” which is worn tight round the abdomen in a way which seems
uncomfortable enough. In other villages this is replaced by a belt
formed of several hoops of rotang. They usually go bare-headed,
but on certain festive occasions they wear a cap anda long skirt, and
put round their necks all they possess in the way of necklaces,
formed of most heterogeneous materials, to which are hung various
amulets and charms.
The weapons of the Land-Dyaks are the plain spear and the
parang, which is very like the Malay sword termed ‘“ parang
battok.” The blade is about twenty inches in length, widest near
the extremity and gradually narrowing towards the hilt, which is
bent at an obtuse angle to the blade. In the Malay weapon the hilt
is of wood, in the Dyak parang it is of iron, continuous with the
blade and usually provided with a small bar placed crosswise which
serves as a guard, and terminated with a tuft of hair. The Land-
Dyaks do not use the sumpitan.
Another article invariably carried by these Dyaks is a small bag
of woven rotang strips, in which they keep the sir ingredients
and fire-lighting apparatus, as well as a small knife for cutting the
areca nuts, and splitting rotangs, of which they make much use.
65 FE
CHAPTER: Wi
EXCURSION TO Mount Mattanc—Maray ApzES—CyNoGALE BENNETTI—
In SEARCH OF A ROAD TO THE SUMMIT—SOME METHODS OF SEED
DISPERSION—DIFFICULTIES IN GETTING BOTANICAL SPECIMENS—How
A FOREST CAN BE EXPLORED—My REASONS FOR CLIMBING
MATTANG—THE ‘“ UmBUT’’—DwarF PatmMs—TuHIN Rotancs—A
LANKO—SUDDEN STORMS—IMPRESSIONS IN THE MATTANG FoREST—
PHOSPHORESCENCE AND FIREFLIES—INSECTS, FLOWERS, AND LigGHT—
Quop—FLYING-FOXEs.
FTER my first attempt to reach the Mattang mountain by
crossing the forest of Kuching, the Tuan Muda had kindly
ordered the Singhi Dyaks to cut a path from Siul to the mountain.
In October this pathway was completed, and I decided to use it at
once and endeavour to reach the summit. It was arranged that
Tuan-ku Yassim was to be my companion.
I left Kuching at eight o’clock on the morning of November 13th,
with four men and provisions for a week, consisting principally of rice,
which is the basis of daily food for Malays and Dyaks ; the remainder
was to be got with our guns in the forest. Each Malay, besides the
inseparable parang, had taken a “ bilion,”’ with him—the instrument
always used by them for cutting down trees. The bilion is an iron
adze, made on the principle of the stone one to this day in use among
various tribes of New Guinea and Polynesia, and in prehistoric times
amongst Europeans. It has a wedge-shaped blade which comes to
a point at the butt-end ; this is ingeniously fastened by rotangs to a
knee-like handle in such a way that it can be turned at various in-
clinations and easily taken out, which enables the implement to be
used in different ways, and also like an axe. The handle is named
‘“‘perda,” and is made with a soft but tough wood, “ kayu plai.”
In the hands of a Malay the bilion is far more efficacious than
the best European axe, to which he greatly prefers it.
As I was anxious to travel quickly my personal luggage was
reduced to the smallest dimensions, and one man took both his own
things and mine in his “ tambuk,” a light but strong basket made
of thin slips of rotang and carried like a knapsack on the back. I
took no botanical paper, and restricted myself to a jar filled with
spirits for preserving zoological specimens, the indispensable
taxidermic instruments, a thermometer, an aneroid, and a few
medicines, especially quinine, chlorodyne, and laudanum ; fever and
6
cHap, vi] EXCURSION TO MOUNT MATTANG
dysentery being the two principal maladies to be guarded against
in this country.
We got on pretty fast as far as Siul, where the Tuan-ku was to
join us. He was not ready when we passed his house, but he caught
us up, accompanied by another native, at the little stream which had
barred my way when I first attempted to reach Mattang. Over this
we found a tree-trunk, or “ batang,” had been thrown, by which
we crossed. As we were proceeding, a small dog, which had accom-
panied the Tuan-ku, started two animals which looked much like
otters. I fired at one, but my gun had got damp with the rain which
had been falling fast for the last hour, and did not go off. The Tuan-
ku having fired at the other and wounded it, the dog gave chase,
and we ultimately secured it.
The forest was at this point very marshy, the ground covered
with surface-roots, which formed alternate lumps and awkward
water-holes, and it was no easy matter to get along. I sank
several times up to the knees in soft black slush, but where undis-
turbed, the water was limpid and drinkable, though of the colour
of strong tea. The trees here were not of large size, but grew
thickly together ; the number of species was large, and had I been
able to stay and collect I should no doubt have got some interesting
novelties. But for the present I had to content myself with the
fact that I had secured a good specimen of Cynogale bennetti, a rare
and curious animal with the habits and appearance of an otter, but
belonging to the family of Viverride.
We continued along the pathway made by the Dyaks, which
improved as soon as we got out of the low marshy tract. On nearing
the mountain the ground got quite dry, and the forest less choked
up with underwood, bushes, etc., so that we were able to travel
faster. Towards three o’clock in the afternoon we reached a small
gambir plantation recently made by some Chinese.’ In the midst
of the clearing was a hut built by them, and here we halted for the
night.
Pi the rice was being cooked I skinned the Cynogale, making a
present of the carcase to our hosts. I had just finished the operation,
and was still holding the skin, when one of the Chinamen who was
looking on suddenly snatched it out of my hands, and, before I
could prevent him, pulled out some of the long moustache-like hairs
from the creature’s muzzle. He had evidently been watching his
opportunity, but what on earth he wanted with the hairs I was
unable to learn. I got them back soon enough, however, and gave
him, as may be imagined, a good talking to.
1 The Uncaria gambir is a shrub from which a dark astringent substance,
a kind of catechu, or terra japonica, is extracted ; it is now much used in
commerce both by dyers and tanners.
67
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
The hut was small, and the four or five Chinese to whom it
belonged, after finishing their meal!—which was more ample than
ours, by reason of my contribution to their larder—and their pipe
of opium, went to sleep. We made the best of the accommodation
afforded us, and slept more or less badly till morning.
The next day, November 14th, I wished to get off before sunrise,
but I had to give up the idea. Early starts were always a difficulty
with the Malays, for whom the morning slumber has special charms.
The Chinamen’s hut was at the foot of the mountain, near a deep,
narrow ravine which appeared to descend abruptly from the summit.
To reach the latter from this side appeared difficult. We therefore
decided to go round the base of the mountain in search of a better
place for the ascent. Our way led us through a part where the forest
was of extraordinary beauty, the variety of the trees being almost
unlimited. But I had at that moment to be content with admiring
all these treasures, for had I attempted to collect even a portion of
what I handled we should never have reached our destination.
Besides, this was the place where I intended to explore the forest
exhaustively later on, the principal object of the present excursion
being to find a spot on the mountain on which a hut could be built.
This was to be the centre of future explorations, and it was my
intention to remain several months in it, with my men and all the
requisites for collecting.
In merely crossing the forest, as we did, little indeed can be col-
lected by the naturalist. It is true that on the way many plants are
met with within easy reach of the hand, such as small palms,
aroids, gingers, grasses, etc., or dwarf shrubs and bushes from
which specimens may be got with a few strokes of the parang.
But the bulk of the vegetation in Borneo consists of forest trees
which are inaccessible to the passer-by, and for that very reason
less known and more interesting.
A Bornean primeval forest is not formed like our European
woods by one or at most a few kinds of trees, but of an incredible
number of species. I have never counted the number of trees
growing on a measured area in a Bornean forest ; but the number is
certainly very large, both in individuals and in species. Naturally,
it would vary in different localities ; thus on the slopes of mountains
the number of individuals of a given species is greater than in the
valleys or on the plain; whilst on these the variety of species is
larger, for it is here that fruits and seeds carried by the streams and
spread by frequent inundations accumulate in large quantities. I
believe that such indeed is the most efficacious of the many ways
of dispersion of seeds of forest trees on the plains, the more so as
the rainy season corresponds with that of the ripening of their fruits.
It must not, however, be forgotten that there are quite a number
of plants for whose seeds no such means of dispersal are available.
68
vi] CHARAGIONISI CS Oh iri ORES
In these seed distribution is ensured by means of the wind, by birds,
or byotheranimals. In this group undoubtedly come all epiphytes,
so abundant amongst the high branches of the great forest trees, and
so tantalising to the botanist who cannot collect them when circum-
stances oblige him to travel hastily through the forest. The same
may be said of climbing plants, for although in many cases their
flowers may actually grow along the stem, their foliage usually
twists and climbs high up amongst the trees, rendering it often
impossible for the passing collector to get specimens. For these
and other reasons a complete investigation of the forest flora is
not possible during cursory excursions. One way of overcoming
such difficulties is to get information of spots where clearings
for industrial or agricultural purposes are being made in the
forest; one can then easily superintend the operations of tree-
felling and select such specimens as may prove interesting, taking
advantage, naturally, of the flowering season. Another way—the
one which I usually adopted—is to go into the forest with a party
of natives, good climbers and wood-cutters, and direct the collection
of such specimens as are wanted ; but for such work plenty of time
is required, and it cannot be got through hurriedly. For these
reasons, then, I resolved to build a hut on Mattang, where I could
remain sufficiently long for a thorough investigation of the local
flora.
Our route round the base of the mountain was a varied one. In
the dips and valleys the vegetation was unusually thick and matted
on account of the great number of rotangs. In places where water
accumulated the number of species was greater than elsewhere, and
the shade was of the densest. Not the slenderest sun-ray penetrated
the mass of vegetation. Here shrubs with long slender stems were
frequent, literally covered with mosses, Hepaticee, and small ferns,
chiefly Hymenophyllacee. But one peculiarity which could not
fail to strike the botanist in the kind of forest which I have attempted
to describe, is the quantity of cryptogamic growths living on the
ereen and growing leaves of the shrubs and bushes forming the under-
growth. Almost every leaf, even those of herbaceous plants, is
covered with minute Hepatice, lichens, mosses, and fungi.
Near a small stream we met with several specimens of a very tall
palm, a species of “‘nibong” (Oncosperma horrida, Griff.) usually
known in Sarawak by the name of ‘“lammakor.” It has
amidst its central fronds a “ cabbage,” which is excellent eating.
The Malays call this part, which is also edible in other palms, ** um-
but.” As we were rather short of provisions anything of the kind
we could procure in the jungle was very welcome, and we cut down
the tree to utilise its cabbage. It was 118 ft. in height, and the
stem alone from the ground: -level to the insertion of the first frond
was 102 ft.
69
IN. BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
Wandering on without finding a suitable place to commence the
ascent of the mountain, we reached a part of the forest where the
trees were of enormous height and size, the ground beneath being
quite bare and devoid of undergrowth. I found by examining the
dead leaves, which formed a soft, brown carpet over which it was
pleasant to walk, that these trees were of species belonging to the
genera Shorea, Hopea, and Dipterocarpus, members of the family
which bears the latter name. Game was scarce, and except a few
“ pergams,” huge pigeons of the genus Carpophaga, which were
perched high up in the trees beyond range, no animals were met
with.
After a very long tramp we found that we were going round a
projecting spur, which would have led us away from, rather than
towards the mountain. This induced us to try the ascent, although
the place was very steep; but the vegetation was so dense and there
were so many roots to hold on by and obtain a footing, that we
managed to reach a sort of terrace which extended on a level for
a considerable distance. This led us, though at a higher elevation,
back towards the spot where we had been turned aside by the moun-
tainspur. Here I found a diminutive pinang very abundant, with a
stem hardly as thick as one’s little finger, and growing to about a
man’s height (Aveca minuta, Schaff.) We also met witha small
species of Licuala with undivided and nearly circular leaves, of the
shape of a Chinese fan (L. orbicularis, Becc.). The Dyaks use
these leaves, which they call ‘“‘daun nisang,” for making thatch
and hats, and especially for wrapping up “ nassi”’ (cooked rice),
tobacco, etc., etc.
After a couple of hours or so of hard chmbing and a rest for some
food, we at length gained the summit, or rather what we imagined
to be so. Even here it was forest-clad, and I was obliged to cut
down some trees to get a view. These were neither very tall nor very
stout here, but their wood was singularly tough. When they were
cleared away we found that we could overlook the country as far
as Kuching. From this elevation the plain looked like an immense
expanse of verdure extending to the far horizon, formed by the
upper surface of the dense forest. In some places large blotches
of another tint were conspicuous ; these were mostly white, and were
caused by forest trees in full blossom. Some, however, were of a
bright red, a colour which I found later to be due to the flowers of a
giant liana(Bauhima Burbidgit), which displays its brilliant colouring
by climbing over the tops of the biggest trees. Having found a
small bit of level ground, we all set to work to clear it in order to
build a “lanko,” or temporary hut, wherein to pass the night. In
case no water was to be found on the summit, I had had sections of
bamboo filled at the spring where we took our last meal.
While the men were busy setting up our lanko and lighting
70
vi] _ THE LANKO
the fire to cook rice, the Tuan-ku and I followed the crest of the
mountain to see whether we could get higher. We found a pathway
evidently traced by wild animals. The Singhi Dyaks occasionally,
though rarely, ascend the mountain in search of very slender rotangs
which grow nowhere else in these parts, and which they apply to
various uses. We also found them abundant here, and collected a
quantity ; the Malays call them “rotang rawat,’ i.e. brass-
wire rotangs, or “ rotang tikus,” i.e. mouse rotangs, to denote their
diminutive size. Some of them when cleaned are hardly more than
one-fifteenth of an inch in diameter, the stoutest being one-fifth of an
inch. They belong to a variety of Calamus javensis, or a very
closely allied species.
After walking for about half an hour we reached another peak ;
but through the trees we could make out that we were not, even then,
on the highest point of Mattang. I did not collect any plants, but
noted that the most abundant tree about the summit was a Casua-
vina which is very like one which grows also in the plain. But it
was getting late, so we returned to where we had left our men work-
ing at the lanko. We took back with us a good bundle of
rotangs, the best existing binding material the forest affords.
The “lanko” or “langko” are temporary huts which the
Dyaks put up in the forest when required. Ina country like Borneo,
where the necessary materials abound, this is easily done. Such
huts are a necessity to those obliged to pass a night in the forest
in a climate so damp and rainy, where it would be impossible to
sleep on the ground sub Jove, if only on account of the innumerable
insect pests. To construct a lanko two small tree-trunks of
requisite length are cut down and placed parallel to each other on
the ground at a distance which varies with the size of the hut re-
quired. The use of these trunks is to raise the flooring from the
ground. This flooring is formed by laying a number of sticks trans-
versely across the two trunks. Over this a slanting roof is con-
structed formed by a frame of forked branches stuck in the ground
and cross poles, over which leaves, preferably those of a palm, are
placed to form a covering.
Our lanko was soon ready; and as the weather was fine and
it did not look like rain, we merely covered it with leafy branches,
having no better material handy; while to render our bed less
hard we spread over the stick flooring some sheets of smooth bark.
There are many trees in these forests with smooth and even bark
which can be detached with ease and forms excellent flooring. The
night was less cool than I should have expected, but I have lost the
note I made of the minimum temperature we experienced. Towards
dawn it was, however, considerably less than that to which my men
were accustomed, and had the effect of making them rise before the
sun. We were therefore able to begin the descent in good time.
7A
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
As I have previously remarked, my principal object in this
excursion up the Mattang mountain was not to reach its summit
so much as to find a suitable locality for building myself a house.
After some exploration, I decided that the most convenient spot
for my future headquarters was that where we had halted for
lunch on the previous morning during our ascent, on a sort of terrace
about 1,000 feet above sea-level, between two ravines, from one of
which water could easily be led to the place where I intended to
build my hut.
My men, under the direction of the Tuan-ku, set to work to con-
struct a large and commodious lanko, as a shelter during the
building of the house. In this locality palms abound, and the roof
of the temporary hut was made entirely of their fronds, and was
quite impervious to rain. The trees were felled all round, and a big
one was cut so as to fall across and bridge the nearest ravine. It
was an enormous trunk, about 100 feet in length and three feet in
diameter ; it fell just as we wished, and formed a solid bridge some
sixty feet above the bottom of the gorge.
My house was to be of the Malay type, raised on piles; and by
a fortunate chance, on the very site I had chosen, there grew three
thin trees about nine inches in diameter, and situated so as to form
exactly the three corners of a square at a distance of some thirty
feet apart. These were chosen as the corner pillars of the house
to be built. One of them was flowering, and I preserved specimens
from it. It was a Canariwm (?)as yet undescribed by botanists, and
evidently fully grown. The other two were young specimens of
large forest trees, and from their foliage I recognised them as be-
longing to two distinct genera of Dipterocarpez, and in all pro-
bability of undescribed species. This may help to give an idea of
the richness of the flora of Gunong Mattang, that three trees selected
by mere chance, only thirty feet apart from each other, should be-
long to three distinct genera and to species probably peculiar to
Borneo and new to science. Their trunks were cut at thirteen feet
from the ground, for the flooring was to. be of such a height as to
permit anyone to walk beneath it. All the other trees for a good
space around were felled or rooted up, especially in front of the
future house, not only to get a clear view, but to allow the sun’s
rays to dry the ground and generally to neutralise the dampness,
which otherwise would have rendered the drying of botanical speci-
mens a difficulty.
From the bigger trees the bark was detached to be used for
the lanko and later for the house. A search was made for long,
slender stems suitable for the framework, and these were solidly
planted in the ground ; the tranverse poles were tied on with rotangs,
of which also there was no lack. Another excellent material for
tying was furnished by the Nefenthes, whose stalks, about a quarter
72
v1] SUDDEN STORMS
of an inch in diameter and twenty feet or more in length, are as
strong as rotangs. In the whole building not a single nail was
used.
The house was to have a verandah in front and another behind,
and was to be divided off inside into three rooms: the central one
serving as a hall, one of the side ones to be my bedroom and study,
and the other the sleeping room of my men. The kitchen was on
the ground beneath. In three days the principal portion of the
framework was set up. The Tuan-ku not only superintended the
work, but took the most active part in it, never resting for a moment.
At night we all slept in the lanko, where we were sometimes
obliged to seek refuge from sudden and heavy showers in the day-
time. The rain-bringing north-east monsoon had already begun,
but for the present its effects showed only in occasional afternoon
showers.
From the small clearing we had made in the forest, we could
follow the big grey clouds passing rapidly overhead, hiding the sun
which had warmed our clearing but a few moments before, and
darkening the plain. Thunder growled and incessant lightning
streaked the lowering sky; the rain descended in torrents, pro-
ducing a singular sound as it beat on the dense foliage of the trees.
On the ground in the forest the deluge does not fall with uniform
regularity. The rain loses its impetus on the aerial vegetation and
reaches the ground as it can, now in huge drops, now in streamlets
down the tree-trunks ; but in the end the water penetrates the
forest just as it does the open. After such a downpour a slight
mist rises from the soil, and the hot reeking dampness transfuses a
powerful influx of new life and energy into the vegetation.
Who will ever be able to form an adequate conception of the
amount of organic labour silently performed in the depths of the
forest under such conditions? Who can even in imagination
realise the untold myriads of living, palpitating cells that are
struggling for existence in the tranquil gloom of a primeval
tropical forest ?
Our habitual conception of life is that we see exemplified in
animals, and few reflect that every tree-trunk and stem, every leaf
and flower, is composed of innumerable microscopic cells, most
of which contain an organised protoplasm, soft, extensile, con-
tractile, capable of sensation, of reacting to stimuli—of fulfilling, in
short, essentially at least, the functions we generally associate
with superior beings. How immense a field lies open to the medi-
tations of the philosopher and naturalist in the primeval forest
now that the veil which hid the mysteries of plant life is beginning
to be lifted !
Up to a quite recent period vegetable physiology was believed
to be based on purely chemical and mechanical processes, and nobody
Ts
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
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CEN PAR Xe
THE SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE SARAWAK RIVER—DIAMOND WASHING
FOSSILS IN THE LIMESTONE—RAPIDS—RIVERSIDE PLANTS—-PANKALAN
AMPAT—IN SEARCH OF COAL—GUNONG WaA—GREAT BamMBoos—A
Dyak BANQUET—NEW KINDs OF FRUIT—ROADS BEYOND THE FRONTIER
—SENNA—OTHER FRUITS AND CULTIVATED PLANTS—THERMAL SPRINGS
—EXCURSIONS ON THE WEST BRANCH OF THE SARAWAK RIVER—THE
CAVE OF THE WINDS, “‘ LOBANG ANGIN.”’
J ITH the flowing tide, at half-past three o’clock in the morn-
ing of the 15th November, I started from my head-
quarters at Kuching to ascend the southern branch of the Sarawak
river, into which flow the waters collected on the slopes of Mount
Pennerrissen. Beyond Lida Tana we lost the help of the tide and
had to take to our paddles, continuing thus till noon. Afterarest to
cook and eat our rice, we resumed our row up the river, but as the
current was getting stronger and stronger we were obliged to have
recourse to poling. As the river was shallow, we progressed thus pretty
rapidly. We passed the small affluent of Sunta, where we found
a few Malays engaged in washing for diamonds. At three o’clock
in the afternoon we reached the village of Koom. Here, in addition
to a number of Malays, I met an Englishman who, commissioned
by the “ Borneo Company,” was trying his luck with diamonds,
- using a big boat provided with a curious spoon-shaped dredge, with
which sand and pebbles from the bottom were brought up and
carefully sifted and searched for diamonds.
The Malays wash for diamonds in the same way as for gold,
using circular wooden trays (dulang) with a wide conical concavity
and measuring some two feet in diameter. The earth and fine
gravel or sand is placed in the tray, to which a _ slight rotating
movement is given as it is dipped from time to time in the running
water. In this manner the dirt and lighter particles are washed
away, and the heavier ones, such as particles of metal, or precious
stones, remain at the bottom in the central conical depression.
The diamonds found at Koom and elsewhere on the Sarawak river
are rarely of very pure water, and are mostly tinged with yellow.
Some that I saw had a decided reddish tint, a variety much appre-
ciated in the country when the gem is not too small. The
diamonds I saw were of very variable shapes: some were perfect
121
IN. BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. |
octahedrons ; others had three and six facets on each of the faces
of the octahedron ; and there were also hemihedral or bisected forms.
The diamond-yielding alluvium also contains gold, but in small
quantities.
_ A Malay showed me the results he had obtained in three months’
work, consisting solely of four small diamonds, which together
could hardly have weighed half a carat. Another in a month’s
work had found nothing except a few minute flakes of gold of the
value of perhaps a couple of shillings. He told me that he had
spent four dollars in provisions and in travelling to the spot, and
he had besides paid one dollar to the Government for his licence to
wash. The more sanguine and hard workers are buoyed up by
the hope of finding some stone worth, say, 100-150 dollars, which
would recompense them for the labour and expense incurred
during the preceding fruitless months.
The Malays use certain seeds called ‘‘ Bua saga” for weighing
diamonds. These are of the size of a large pea, and weigh about a
carat. They are slightly depressed, of a somewhat irregular
lenticular shape, very hard, and with a highly polished bright red
surface. They are a product of a leguminous tree, Adenanthera
pavonina, which is of Indian origin, but is sometimes to be met
with planted near huts and houses, even at Sarawak.
I was desirous of ascertaining how nearly these seeds approxi-
mated to the weight they were supposed to represent, and was
surprised to find that they vary very slightly indeed, corresponding
almost precisely in weight to the English carat of 205 centigrammes.
Of five such seeds taken at random I found three weighing exactly
a carat; the other two were one centigramme under weight.
The profession of diamond washer is well adapted to the Malays,
who are born gamblers. They love to tempt fortune, and the hope
of one day securing a big prize makes them forget that steady work
would prove far more profitable. The Chinese prefer washing for
gold, which gives a smaller but more certain gain.
During my stay in Borneo I did not hear of any big diamond
being found in the Sarawak river, but it is not in the Malay char-
acter to talk much about any such stroke of fortune; and if any
were found it is not improbable that they were quietly smuggled
out of the country. Perhaps the fear of attracting other prospectors,
or making the Government augment the licence tax may also con-
tribute to this. Later, however, I heard that stones of 16, 18,
and even one of 72 carats had been got at Koom.
The same evening I and my English friend aforesaid pro-
ceeded farther up the river for an hour and a half, using a small
boat on account of the shallows and frequent rapids. The banks
become more and more picturesque, being formed of lime-
stone rocks of strange shapes through which the river winds. These
12
x | RIVERSIDE PLANTS
rocks, eroded by the action of the water, are very ragged and irregular.
They contain various fossils, such as shells and echinoderms of
sorts, and amongst the former some looked like Terebratule.t
Here and there the rocks were dotted with rounded masses or
tubercles the size of one’s fist, and even larger, formed by silicious
concretions. The Malays call these “batu tikus,” i.e. “* mouse
stones,” from their shape and dark grey colour. The trees we met
were all different from those which grow on the banks lower down
the river. It was quite dark and raining heavily when we got back
to Koom. Having arranged to ascend the river towards its source,
we once more started on the 16th November. Our party con-
sisted of twenty-five persons in four boats, two large and two
small. We got off at 8 a.m., and halted at noon on a small island
in the river to cook our dinner. In the neighbourhood, on the sites
of former plantations, we found growing abundantly a wild banana
(Musa campestris, Becc., P.B. No. 2,722). At three o’clock in the after-
noon we reached S’bungo, a Dyak village, where we decided to pass
the night. On examining the pebbles in the river, we found amongst
them bits of a substance which had the appearance of graphite,
and we proposed next day to search along the banks to find it 7
situ.
The next morning at half-past eight we were again on our way.
The rocks of the country we were passing through varied: now
limestone, now schists, and now sandstone, while a species of con-
glomerate was also common. Some of the limestone masses
formed vertical peaks rising from 350 ft. to 500 ft. in height, and had
plants on them which were unknown to me; but to get at them was
no easy matter on such inaccessible cliffs. We came at length to
a bifurcation of the river, and followed the branch to the left,
which is the one which penetrates farthest into the interior. Several
rapids—or viam as the natives call them—were passed success-
fully. My sampan was rather heavy for this part of the river,
but we managed to carry it even beyond the Riam Lidong, the last
and most dangerous of them all, dragging it with rotangs over the
big rocks between which the water tears and foams, rushing by with
tremendous velocity. This last part of the river is picturesque
beyond description, the trees clinging to the rocks, and spreading
their serpent-like roots in all directions, whilst their branches
overhung the water and gave us a shade which was not a little
appreciated.
One of the commonest trees here was a species of fig (after-
wards described from my specimens by Sir George King under the
name of f2cus acidula), which bears on its large branches bunches
of fine red fruits, very like our own figs, of an acidulated and not
t This is from my notes. The specimens which I collected have been un-
fortunately lost, and cannot, therefore, be determined accurately.
123
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
unpleasant flavour. Acid juices are unusual in the genus Ficus,
and this is the only species to my knowledge which presents such a
peculiarity. Amongst the notable trees in the vicinity I
must not forget to mention the handsome Dillenia indica and a
Dipterocarp, the “‘mengkabang chankie” of the Malays (Lsoptera
Borneensis, Scheff, P.B. No. 2,795). This tree produces an
immense quantity of small fruits similar to hazel nuts, sur-
rounded by a calyx with five rounded lobes. These fruits ripen in
the rainy season, and falling in large quantities into the water are
carried by the current down to Kuching, where they are collected
by women and children, being highly prized, for the best quality
of mengkabang oil is obtained from their seed. A short distance
beyond Riam Lidong the river bifurcates again. The left branch
(for those who ascend) leads to Senna. On the right one, houses at
once come into view. These belong partly to Chinamen, who have
gardens here, partly to Malays, small traders, or diamond washers.
This place, which we had taken five hours to reach from S’bungo,
is named Pangkalan Ampat, which means the landing-place (pang-
kalan) for four (ampat) villages, and several Dyak tribes come here
for trade.
Having asked the Malays at Pangkalan Ampat if coal
or ‘Batu aran” (charcoal-stone) as they term it, existed
in the neighbourhood, they asserted that it was to be found
on the banks of a small stream which ran into the river
just below the nearest rapid. Several hours of daylight were
still available, and we decided to go there at once and
see how far the assertion was true. Taking a small boat
and two men well accustomed to descending the Riam Lidong,
an operation much more dangerous than the ascent, we reached in
a few minutes a place named Batu Ujong, where on the left bank a
small stream enters the river. Ascending this streamlet for five
or six hundred yards we came upon the so-called coal deposit.
It was merely a seam about three feet thick of a carboniferous-
looking schist having 1n certain places the aspect of graphite, inter-
posed between the sandstone and the limestone. Our informants
told us also that diamonds had been got in this stream. I picked
up fragments of silicified wood, which was apparently that of a
species of Cycadoxylon.
On November 18th my companion was obliged to return to
Kuching; but I remained, awaiting the Senna Dyaks, whom I
had sent for to fetch my luggage, and to guide me to Mount Pennerris-
sen, of which I wished to attempt the ascent. But as they did not
turn up, I pursuaded two other Dyaks, who had come down to
Pengkalan Ampat from Tappo Kakas to buy salt, to accompany
me to their village and carry my luggage, which I had naturally
reduced to the smallest possible dimensions. They willingly
124
x| TAPPO) “KAKAS
accepted, and we started at II a.m., together with my Malays.
After crossing several Chinese orchards we soon found ourselves
at the foot of a hill, whence two pathways led to the village of my
guides—one crossing over the hill, and the other going round its
base. The latter follows the course of the river, here called Sungei
T’bia, in whose waters it was necessary to wade most of the way.
Fearing that my botanical paper might get wetted if I followed this
path, I took the other one, but soon found that, instead of one hill,
we had to go up and down several, and, in addition, cross a torrent
many times, which was in some places deep and rapid. Indeed,
I more than once felt almost carried off my legs by the force of the
current, and should certainly have been had not the two Dyaks
taken me between them and supported me. They, with their
naked feet, could get a good grip of the stones in the river bed,
and thus had the advantage over me in my European shoes.
In various places we crossed over deep ravines on bare bamboos
ingeniously bound to the trees on each side, and forming a most
elegant suspension bridge (Fig. 26), but much pleasanter, however,
to look at than to cross.
It was nearly dark when we reached the village of Tappo Kakas,
On the road I met with a large specimen of that most beautiful of
Bornean orchids, Vanda (Renanthera) Lowt,in full bloom. In hot-
houses at home this plant produces a profusion of flowers, perhaps
even more than in its native land; but the manner in which it in
cultivated, placed erect in a pot, cannot convey any idea of it in
its native forests, where, adhering by its roots to the limb of some
big branch or to its bifurcation, its leaves shoot upwards, whilst
its grand racemes of large flowers, sometimes quite ten feet in length,
hang pendulous below.
The ground here is very steep and broken, but appears to be
of a better quality than the soil near Kuching ; it is abundantly
supphed with water, which wells out in every direction, and
collects clear and sparkling in the numerous streamlets and
torrents.
At Tappo Kakas I was lodged in a house at the end of the
village, which for the time being was deserted, most of the in-
habitants being away in the fields clearing the rice of weeds. It
was my intention to start from this place, which has an elevation
of about 1,150 feet, for the summit of Gunong Pennerrissen, or as
I have also heard it pronounced, “ Mengrissen.” This has been
considered one of the highest mountains in Sarawak, but it is cer-
tainly inferior to Gunong Poe. Seen from a distance, Mount
Pennerrissen does not seem to have any very striking summit, nor
to tower much above its neighbours.
The Dyaks of Tappo Kakas, for some special motive of their
own, showed no wish to guide me up the mountain. On the con-
125
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. Xx
trary, they did their best to dissuade me from attempting the ascent,
and declared that unheard-of difficulties would beset me on my
road to the summit. Most certainly from the village in which I
was the way to Mount Pennerrissen was neither short nor easy, as
I could see for myself. Besides, I had brought with me only a small
quantity of provisions. So making a virtue of necessity, I contented
myself with the ascent of Gunong Wa, an easy undertaking from
Tappo Kakas. On November tgth, accordingly, I started with
four or five Dyaks accompanying me as guides. The side of
the mountain was far from steep, and after a couple of hours
very easy climb up an excellent pathway, we reached the summit,
which is a kind of plateau, the mountain having no real culminating
prominence. For this reason there was no view, it being impeded
on all sides by the forest trees, and I was in consequence somewhat
disappointed with my excursion.
The formation is sandstone, as I believe it to be in all the hills
of the group I had crossed, of coarse elements, containing pebbles
of quartz and other silicious minerals, and easily disintegrated.
It might almost be called a quartzose conglomerate. Having
examined the kavangan, or gravel beds, in which diamonds
are found at Sunta, and all along the Sarawak river, it
appears to me highly probable that the gems originate from the
disintegration of the rocky mass of the Pennerrissen group. If
this be true, they ought to be found 77 sztu in the rocks of which
these mountains are composed.
Up to an elevation of about 2,000 feet the slopes of the mountain
either were then, or had some time or other been, under rice
cultivation, and the primeval forest had therefore disappeared.
In most of the abandoned plantations a gigantic bamboo grew
with great luxuriance, forming huge clumps, which recalled to my
mind those I had admired along the Mahawelliganga in the Botanic
Gardens at Peradeniya, in Ceylon. It was, no doubt, a Dendrocalamus.
The internodes of its young shoots contained a large quantity of
limpid cool water which flowed out as from a tap if an incision
was made in them. I am not aware if this peculiarity is con-
stant in this species of bamboo, or whether it occurs in others when
growing in localities provided with a superabundance of water in
the soil, as was undoubtedly the case here. I have stated in
a previous chapter that cultivated bamboos in Borneo rarely
tun to seed, and are never met with in the true primeval
forest, except in localities once under cultivation or near
1 Recently here, in Florence, after abundant rain, I found the young
shoots of a bamboo (Bambusa viridi-glaucescens) with their internodes full
of water. But this abnormal absorption soon caused them to turn yellow
and perish, the internodes becoming detached one from the other.
126
‘“MVMVUVS UdaddN AHL NO ANGINA OOANVA V-—'9Qz% Shy
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
habitations. The gigantic bamboo mentioned above may therefore
have been introduced from Java, probably with other cultivated
plants, at the period when the benefits of the Hindu-Javanese
civilisation was extended also to the people of Borneo.
On Gunong Wa I noticed an ingenious way of utilising bamboos
in the construction of huts or temporary shelters in the jungle. The
big stems split in halves were not only used for the sides of the house,
but a very efficient roof was made by laying them alternately with
the convex and with the concave side upwards, with the edges over-
lapping.’ Our tiled roofs have the same arrangement. Is it pos-
sible that they have originated from similar constructions in bamboo
used by our remote ancestors ?
(On the top of Gunong Wa I was not able to collect many plants ;
most were trees and out of blossom. I noted, however, several
species of Quercus, and some very large specimens of Podocarpus
cupressina, R.B. and the Eugetssonza, which I had already found
on Mattang ; 1t-appears to love sandstone hills. But the best find
I made on this excursion was anew Joinvillea (J. Borneensts, Becc.),
a plant which possesses the attributes both of the grasses and of the
palms, with astem of the size of a slender reed six or eight feet high,
and with elongated and folded leaves. Of the genus /Joivillea
only two others are known besides this species, one from the Sand-
wich Islands, the other from Fiji. All three are very similar, but
the Bornean one is more akin to that from Fiji, from which it only
differs in minute characters of the flower. The discovery of this
plant on Gunong Wa is very singular on account of the enormous
distance which separates it from the allied species. It is not un-
likely that the Joinvilleas were formerly plants of far wider diffusion,
and that some special cause has destroyed them in intermediate
localities.
One of the more important additions to my collection on this
occasion was also a new species of parasitical plant, a Balanophora,
with the aspect of a mushroom, which I have named Bb. reflexa.
I had decided to go back to Pankalan Ampat on November
20th, but the Orang Kaya (headman of the village) invited me
to stay, for on that day one of the great annual fétes of the Dyaks
was to be solemnised in the village.
From early dawn preparations for a grand banquet had been
going on on the platform which projected from the covered part
of one of the biggest houses. On one side of this platform about
a dozen gongs hung from a horizontal pole. This was the orchestra,
whose harmony was to enliven the banquet. On large banana
leaves, which acted as tablecloths, were placed the dishes, consist-
1 The roofs of the huts of the Kachin in Tenasserim are made in precisely
the same way (cf. Fed, Op. cit., p. 382).
128
x | NEW KINDS OF FRUIT
ing of boiled rice and small pieces of boiled pork and fowl, with dried
and salted fish. But the favourite condiment was a horrible paste
made by mixing well-rotted minced pork and squashed durian pulp.
I need not describe the appalling exhalations of that paste, the
greatest delicacy of the Land-Dyaks! From noon till dusk the
gongs and drums beat unceasingly, and eating went on. All who
came were welcome guests, and invited to partake of the food abun- .
dantly supplied.
Wishing to utilise my time, I got the Dyaks to bring me samples
of all the species of fruit which they cultivated around the village.
CR |
Fig. 27.—LAND-DYAK GIRLS.
Besides those I was already acquainted with, which are to be found
near all the Land-Dyaks’ villages, I found here that of the Elaterto-
spermum Tapos, Bl., which they call bua ruppr. The tree which
bears it is a handsome Euphorbia, and its fruit divides into three
segments, each of which contains a big feculous seed about one and
a half inches long. The ruppi is cultivated, but I was told it is
to be met with in a wild state in the neighbouring forest ; its seeds
are edible only after having been for some time macerated in water.
But the most remarkable fruits at Tappo Kakas were five species of
129 K
IN BORNEAN FORESTS | [cuap.
Nephelium, similar to the common rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum),
but yet distinct. At the time of my visit they were as yet unknown
to science, but they have since been described by Professor Radlkofer,
of Munich, from the specimens then obtained by me.
These fruits differ slightly in external appearance, but are similar
in the flavour of the pulp which envelops the seeds. Are they forest
species, brought and planted round the houses, or are they hybrids
between wild species and the cultivated Nephelium lappaceum ?
I am unable to answer these queries, which naturally arise in the
mind ofa botanist. It is certainly an unusual thing to find cultivated
in one village five congeneric species of excellent fruits as yet un-
known to science.
From Tappo Kakas various roads, or rather pathways, lead
into Dutch territory, and as it was my intention later to cross the
border, I collected all available information about them. » Descend-
ing Gunong Wa on the side opposite to that which I had gone up,
one comes to the upper part of the course of the Sambas river,
and from here a track leads south, which is probably the easiest
way from Upper Sarawak into the Dutch possessions. Slightly to
the eastward, between Gunong Wa and Gunong Sikkom, is a
pathway which leads to the headwaters of the Landak river. | PE CAVE OF ak WINDS
which coveted morsel he consented to be my guide to the Lobang
Angin.
The Dyak led me to another entrance of the cave, on the land
side, also wide, but not so-easy of access as that on the river, for
we had to climb a steep rock, very rough and beset with sharp points,
in order to reachit. On this side, as on the other, the cave presented
a spacious hall which extended deep into the mountain in a winding
manner, branching off into lateral corridors leading to various out-
lets. Nearly in the centre of the large hall-like portion, in a deep
fissure of the vault, is the breeding place of the true edible-nest
swift (Collocalia nidtfica), its gelatinous nests being attached to
the nearly vertical rock. There were none now, for the Dyak
who was with me as guide had been there on the very day previous
for the purpose of taking them. From him I learnt that a small
mouse-like animal inhabits the cave, im -holes in the ground.
I saw a goodly number of these holes, but nothing of the animal
itself. I searched in vain, too, for blind Coleoptera, and any other
special cave creatures. A good deal of loose earthy soil, undoubtedly
carried in by water, is to be found in this part of the cave, as in the
other, which w ould be further evidence of a general elev ation of
the hill at a period not very remote.
Whilst descending the river on my way back I found a specimen
of the lovely Dendrobium superbum, with large lilac-rose flowers,
growing on the trunk of a tree. It is, I think, one of the most
beautiful orchids in Borneo, and is found also in the Philippines.
At Bau I stayed awhile to have a look at the gold washings,
which are worked by a considerable number of Chinamen. At this
place, and not in the above described cave, as has been asserted,
fossil teeth of rhinoceros have been found.
I passed the night at Busso, and the next day went on to Blida,
_where, crossing the river, I shot a small crocodile, the only one
amongst the many I fired at which I was able to secure. In the
Sarawak river the common species of crocodile (Cvocodilus
biporcatus) is abundant, even in the vicinity of Kuching; and
there have been instances of persons carried off by these voracious
reptiles, even from the bazaar quay. A premium of one rupee
was given per foot (in length) for every crocodile caught.
That evening I remained at Blida, where I was able to secure
several species of birds which abounded on that portion of the
banks of the Sarawak river. A beautiful pink and green bee-eater
(Nyctiornis amicta) was particularly abundant. I also got some
plovers, which made an agreeable addition to my ordinary meals
of curry and rice. On March 6th I again ascended the Pininjau,
partly for the sake of its splendid view, and partly to get specimens of
the small swift whichis so abundant there, and which Doria had
asked me to collect for him, for at that time our knowledge of the
135
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. xX
edible-nest swifts (Collocalia) and their allies left much to be desired.
The temperature on the top of the hill was delicious: at II a.m.,
when I reached the Rajah’s bungalow, the thermometer was at
77° Fahr.; at 2 p.m. it had only risen to about 80°. In the evening
I was back at Blida, where I always stayed with pleasure on account
of the excellent shooting to be had. Next day I returned once more
to Kuching.
136
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The Oxford Geog! /nstitute
CLA ERE Raa
ON THE BATANG LUPAR IN SEARCH OF THE ORANG-UTAN—FROM KUCHING
TO LINGGA ON THE ‘**‘ HEARTSEASE ’’—PULO BURONG AND ITS PALMS—WE
ASCEND THE BATANG LUPAR—THE BuRONG BUBUT—THE IKAN SUMPIT—
A SINGULAR LORANTHUS—MAROP—I TAKE UP MY QUARTERS WITH
CHINAMEN—EXPLORATIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD—AN ALBINO
WomaNn—My First ORANG-UTAN—RACES AMONGST THE PRIMATES—
A LARGE SPECIMEN OF “‘ Mayas TJAPING ’’—DISCONTENT AMONGST
THE CHINAMEN—A STRANGE CURE—BRIEF BUT SUCCESSFUL HUNT
Dead the two years I had been wandering among the forests
of Borneo, I had not yet met with a single Orang-utan ;
but up to that period botanical collections had so occupied my time,
and the country I had explored had given me such rich results,
that I had not cared to stray far from Kuching, where the great
anthropoid ape is very rare, and to go in search of it on the Sadong
or on the Batang Lupar, where it abounds.
On the Sadong Wallace had long resided and collected ; I there-
fore chose the Batang Lupar, whence I could easily pass into
the Dutch territory of Kapuas, and visit the lakes which exist along
the upper portion of the course of that great river.
In March, 1867, the Tuan Muda, having occasion to send his
gunboat, the Heartsease, to Lingga, kindly allowed me to. take
this opportunity of going there with the larger portion of my pro-
visions, while at the same time my men were to take the sampan
which was to convey me during the remainder of the journey.
At 8 a.m., on March 17th, the Heartsease left her moorings,
steamed down the Sarawak river, and reached the sea by the
Maratabas channel. The weather was splendid ; the sea like a mirror.
We turned eastwards, making straight for the mouth of the Batang
Lupar. Behind us rose the dark bold outline of Tanjong Po,
slowly emerging from the thin morning mist; andon our right the
low coast line revealed itself with its monotonous fringe of verdure,
consisting of mangroves where the shore is muddy, and of casuarinas
where sand prevails. Behind this belt of interminable forest
rises Gunong Lessong, remarkable for its truncated form and its
wide base.t Passing quite close to Pulo Burong, I could see that
1 Lessong is the name given by the Malays to the large wooden mortar
for husking rice. For this operation they use a long thick pestle, which is
not unlike our grape piler. Gunong Lessong owes its name to its resemblance
to one of these mortars turned topsy-turvy.
137
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [cHAP.
this little rocky island was completely clothed, especially on its
upper portion, by a handsome palm, whose enormous racemes
loaded with flowers and fruits looked like small Cypress trees
protruding from the midst of crowns of sago-palm fronds. It is
undoubtedly a species of Eugetssonta, which, although I was unable
to examine it more closely, I consider identical with one I subse-
quently found on the banks of the Rejang and at Brunei. As it
is a useful plant from which good feculum can be extracted, I should
not be surprised if orginally its seeds had been brought to the island
by Dyaks. Borneo, forming the very centre of the area of their past
piratical expeditions, may have been used by them as a victualling
station. A little before sunset we passed the small island which
stands in the middle of the mouth of the Batang Lupar. When
the sun dipped below the horizon, darkness came on very suddenly ;
but the night was clear, and our captain being well acquainted
with the soundings, we continued our way up stream. At 9 p.m.
we had reached our goal, the old fort of Lingga, once the residence
of the Tuan Muda, and now completely abandoned. It is placed
on the right bank, near the mouth of the Lingga river, the first
affluent to be met with on the right, ascending the main stream.
As my boat had not yet arrived, I had my luggage taken into the
fort—a low wooden building, hidden amidst coconuts and fruit trees.
All around the soil was swampy and honeycombed by hosts of
crustaceans, which make myriads of little hillocks with the earth
extracted from the burrows in which they live.
The next day, my boat still not having arrived, I took my gun ~
and explored the neighbourhood. I was able to shoot several
species of birds which I had not met with before ; amongst them
was Lalage terat, Cass., a bird which, in flight and size, is somewhat
like a swallow. It has the habit of taking a few rapid turns in the
air and then perching on the extremity of a bare branch of one of
the trees growing on the banks of the river.
On the opposite side of the Lingga river the land is low, and was in
former times occupied by rice fields, but at the period of my visit
was overrun with a large kind of grass, a species of Ischemum,
which forms immense meadows, pleasant to see at a distance, but
in which walking would be impossible, for it reaches a height of
some eight or ten feet. Moreover, the soil underneath is a morass,
and one would sink up to the knees in mud and slush. The mosqui-
toes thrive by the legion, and render life intolerable.
On the nineteenthof March I left Linggafort before the tide flowed,
but awaited the tidal wave at the mouth of the Sungei Batu, another
affluent of the Batang Lupar, where, in a safe position, I was able to
observe the curious effect that this produces in the shallower parts,
where, instead of the ordinary bore, the water -appears violently
agitated in disordered Ome and seems as if it were boiling
13
x1] THE “IKAN SUMPIT ”
tumultuously. At 4 p.m. I reached Fort Simanggan without
notable incidents.
The next day, about four o’clock in the afternoon, having ascer-
tained that the tidal current had reached the fort, we continued
our ascent of the river with its aid. Soon afterwards we passed
the Undup, an affluent on the right bank, and later on the Sakar-
rang, on the left. Higher up, the main stream, which still retains
the name of Batang Lupar, grows much narrower. Up to this point
the country could hardly be less attractive, with its low banks,
bare and monotonous, or with at the most a few scattered trees.
But these are the signs of a densely populous region, and of soil
adapted to the cultivation of rice. The shrubs scattered over the
country are the remains of forest species not entirely destroyed by
fire during the clearings, and appear as strangers amidst the
vegetation of the plains. We passed the night at Balassan, a
Dyak village of nine families.
Early on the 21st we started paddling, aided by a slight tide
for a short distance, but this was very soon overcome by the current
of the river. I shot here a burong bubut (Centrococcyx eurycercus,
Cab. and Hein.), a large species of cuckoo, which keeps to open
plains and abandoned rice fields, flying from bush to bush. Its
loud and oft repeated cry—‘‘ bubu-bubu ”—is heard for hours in
monotonous regularity on these plains, and its native Malay name
is derived from this peculiarity.
I saw here for the first time that singular fish (Toxodes jaculator)
which has received from the natives the name of “‘ [kan sumpit,”
literally *‘ blowpipe-fish.”” It is neither remarkable in shape nor
coloration, but it has the strange power, on coming to the surface,
of being able to squirt a jet of water from its mouth. This it uses
with unerring aim against insects, suchas grasshoppers, flies, and
_ even spiders, resting on plants near the water’s edge, causing them
to fall into the water, where they become an easy prey to the clever
marksman. The ikan sumpit has thus a special advantage over
other fishes also preying on insects. The annexed vignette (Fig. 29)
shows a scene on a Bornean river, and an ikan sumpit squirting
water at a larval Orthoptera; but the artist has drawn the fish
with colossal proportions, whilst in reality it scarcely attains the
size of one of our common domestic goldfish.
Primitive Man managed to obtain possession of living animals
in motion by virtue of the admirable structure of his hand, which
enabled him to grasp a stone or other missile, and to hurl it at the
animal he wished to capture. Such must have been the origin of
the first suggestion of implements of the chase. In Man’s case the
sentiment which caused the action was desire, followed by an act of
volition. But it is indeed singular that a fish, intellectually so
greatly man’s inferior, should exhibit reasoning capacity similar
139
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [cHAP.
to that of a human being under like conditions. The remote ancestor
of the ikan sumpit must have beheld objects which it desired, to
possess, but which were beyond its means of capture, and, destitute
of both prehensile organ or missile, may have tried to spit (if 1 may
so express it) at the insect which, settled on a blade of grass over-
hanging the water, had tempted its avidity. The fish thus utilised
”
Fig. 29.—'‘‘IKAN SUMPIT,
OR SUMPITAN FISH.
the only means in its power towards an attempt to throw something
at the desired prey. The conclusion is that acts of volition have
induced the ancestor of the ikan sumpit to endeavour to perform
certain movements in its buccal apparatus towards the attaining
of an end for which originally its organism was not morphologically
adapted. The modifications, therefore, which finally caused so
140
xi] MAROP
perfect a water-ejecting apparatus to develop can only have had
their origin in the stimulus I have indicated, namely, a voluntary
act of the fish and the desire to get possession of an object which
was useful to it.
The manner in which the ikan sumpit captures insects has much
analogy to the methods of the chameleon. In both cases we have
special adaptations in certain organs whose modification can only
have been caused through impulses of the will. It must have been
the wish to capture prey, and this only, that has rendered possible
those morphological adaptations by means of which the desire
could be attained.’
It is, however, singular that, among the numerous series of its
more stupid brethren, this little fish should alone have had, one far
remote day, at the dawn of its specific existence, the spark of genius
which led it to discover that spitting at a fly sitting beyond its reach
would cause it to fall into the water and become an easy prey.
It would thus appear that even in beings at present least gifted by
intelligence, this latter can at one time have existed anterior to
instinct, which in final analysis is merely an inherited form of in-
telligence.
We passed Bansi,a Dyak village-house containing nineteen families.
The river banks continued bare and monotonous, but the mountains
of Marop came into view. The only interesting plant I met with
was a Loranthus (Beccarina xtphostachya, v. Tieghem), a magnifi-
cent species, parasitic upon a small tree hanging over the water,
and covered with beautiful rose-coloured flowers five inches in length
very similar to those of some of its congeners of the Andes, in which,
however, the flowers are even more remarkable, attaining the extra-
ordinary length of seven or more inches.
After a short rest at Unggan to cook our rice, we continued our
ascent of the river, passing several Dyak villages. This is one of
the more densely populated districts of Sarawak, and at the same
time more cultivated, thus affording little to interest the botanist.
The rocks I saw, and they were but few, were invariably sandstone.
Towards three o’clock in the afternoon we reached the landing place
for Marop. I disembarked my luggage at once, and stayed in the
house of a Chinaman—there being quite a little Chinese village
here. The following day, March 22nd, I found without difficulty
Chinese and Dyak bearers to convey my luggage to Marop. The
former did so by suspending the load, divided in two portions, at
1 The rather bold hypothesis that the will may have had a strong influence
in causing the assumption in animals of certain characters, has already
been expressed by me in a paper bearing the title, “‘ Le Capanne ed i Giardini
del? Amblyornis inornata,’ published in the Annali. del Museo Civico di
Genova, vol. ix. 1876-77.
I4I
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
the ends of a bamboo pole resting on the shoulders ; the latter carried
their loads on their backs, secured with bands of bark passing under
the package and over the head of the bearer.
The road from the landing place on the river to the village of
Marop—about an hour distant—is one of the best I came across in
Sarawak. One might even drive a light buggy or dog-cart over it,
were such a conveyance known in these parts. I was delighted to
see on the way that the primeval forest had not been all cleared
away, and that there were places where it was evidently intact.
It had, indeed, not a very vigorous aspect, but it looked different
from that I was already acquainted with, which made me look for-
ward to the possibility of finding some novelties. Meanwhile
I came across a Dipodium (P. B. No. 3,256), a ground orchid, with
fair-sized, slightly perfumed flowers of a milk-white colour,
covered with vinaceous blotches.
Marop is a Chinese village, placed in a small valley surrounded
by low hills. The stream from which it takes its name runs through
it, supplying an abundance of cool limpid water, and giving off a
minor torrent which dashes merrily amidst the houses. The
village was very clean ; most of the houses were made with mats or
- palm leaves, but the big house, or residence of the Kunsi, the head-
man of the Chinese, in which I took up my quarters, was almost
entirely built of wood. My lodgings were on a spacious platform
forming a kind of first floor, where I made myself fairly comfortable,
having ample room for my big and cumbrous cases.
I was impatient to explore the country; and as soon as I had
seen my luggage safely housed, I made an excursion up the nearest
hill, where I at once fell in witha troop of red-haired monkeys
(Semnopithecus rubscundus), a fine species I had not met with before,
as, like the orang-utan, it is not found in the neighbourhood of
Kuching. In the afternoon I went up the Batu Lanko, the highest
hill in the neighbourhood, though it hardly reaches the elevation
of 300 feet. It owes its name to an enormous block of granite
raised on other similar masses, so as to form a sort of cave or shelter
(= batu'’==stone, ~ lanko 7 hut), “Om the slopes of thisvenannite
hill I found layers of clay, evidently alluvial, with traces of gold.
The spot was then abandoned, but from the disturbed condition of
the surface over a large area it was plain that very active gold
washing had gone on there not long before. The system followed
is the usual one—that of washing the auriferous deposit in a stream
of running water canalised so as to lead into successive flat pans
or basins at decreasing levels, where the gold particles, on account
of their greater specific gravity, remain, whilst the earthy and other
lighter materials are washed away by the running water.
I extended my walk to Ruma Ajjit, a Dyak village, situated
on the crest of asteep hill. Ajjit—for such was the name of the head-
142
Na ORANG NESTS
man, or Orang-kaya, of the village—as soon as I approached him,
took my right hand in his, and passed twice over my head a fowl which
he held in his left hand. After this he presented me with the fowl,
inviting me very civilly to sit near him by the hearth-stone. This
~ was the place of honour, over which hung several smoked human
heads, precious trophies of his past acts of bravery. He gave
me siri and betel, according to the established custom amongst
Dyaks as well as Malays, the first act of hospitality towards a
welcome guest; and after some conversation, having asked him
to send me fowls which would be well paid for, and to get his people
to collect animals for me, I took leave of my worthy Dyak
chieftain and returned to my quarters in the Kunsi’s house.
At Ruma Ajjit I saw an albino girl. She had a good figure, and
in Europe might easily have been mistaken for a German or Swiss
maid, with her fair hair, blue eyes, and full rosy face, but the latter
was somewhat disfigured by scurfy spots and freckles.
On the twenty-third of March, with several Dyaks as guides,
I again ascended Batu Lanko hill, where I had been told that
orang-utans, or “ Mayas,” as they are called here, had been seen.
I did not meet with any, but found, and was able for the first
time to study, their nests or shelters. The term nest is rightly
applied to the beds or resting-places which these animals con-
struct on trees wherever they remain for a time. They are
formed of branches detached from the tree on which they are
made, and heaped together, usually at a big bifurcation of
the trunk. There is no attempt at anything like an arrangement,
nor is there any roofing, and they merely form a platform which
serves for the creature to lhe down on.
The orang-utan nests I saw were evidently each for a single
animal ; possibly a united couple may build for themselves a more
commiodious couch, but I was unable to find out more of the domestic
habits of these primates. As I have said, what I saw were merely
beds or couches for lying down on; but I think it very possible
that on cold nights, or during rain, these creatures may also use
branches and fronds as a shelter or to cover themselves with. It
is well known that in captivity the orangs like to wrap themselves
up in a cloth or blanket.
The forest in the vicinity of the village being deprived of most
ofits attractions, I directed my steps next day towards the low ground
in search of plants, and was by no means unsuccessful. That
evening all the sick and invalids of the village assembled at my
house, for my fame as a doctor had spread far and wide. My system
-of cure was the simplest, and, thanks to my good fortune, gave
splendid results. To those affected with fever I gave quinine;
to those who suffered with dysentery, chlorodyne; to the others,
fresh water, coloured with a little Worcestershire sauce. Some-
143
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
times I added a little arack; but I soon had to careful with the
latter remedy, for the number of my patients increased instead of
diminishing.
My out-patients having all been attended to, I went to sit up
for deer by moonlight in a “lanko” which commanded a small
plain surrounded by bushes, where the grass was very long and
thick. The deer ought to have come here to feed, but the only
thing that did come was clouds of mosquitoes, which, had I had
any desire to sleep, would have effectually rendered it impossible,
while, if they were not sufficient, the floor, formed as it was of
large stakes, placed side by side, was not of such a nature as to
tempt to drowsiness.
On the 25th I again went in search of plants towards the plain.
From the hill I had noted all the localities where clumps of trees
still stood, and each day I proposed visiting one.
Towards evening a Chinese hunter brought me the first orang-
utan, but it was so mauled and covered with parang cuts that I
did not skin it. Mayas were apparently far from being scarce
in the neighbourhood of Marop, and I felt certain that I should
soon be able to get better specimens. This one was a female of the
kind named ‘‘ Mayas Kassa ” by the Dyaks, who distinguish several
varieties or kinds of the orang-utan. The hair on the body was red,
the skin beneath was of a deep copper colour; the face was much
darker—a blackish-olive.
Next day I went into the jungle in search of Mayas with the
Chinaman who had brought me the one above mentioned. Never- —
theless, I was not favoured by fortune, and we wandered for four hours
in the forest without seeing asingle animal of the kind. When I got
back I found another Chinaman waiting for me with a second Mayas,
very similar to the first, but rather smaller. It was also a female
of the Kassa variety, and it had still attached to it its little baby
son, which had remained clinging to the mother when she fell
wounded. In the fall the poor little creature had broken its left
humerus. I prepared the skin of the mother, who had received a
single bullet in the head, and had broken the bones of both arms in
falling. None of my men were proficient in taxidermy, and I was
thus obliged to do nearly all the work myself, to tell the truth, not
too willingly. I had decided, however, to devote a whole month to
orang-utans, and to preserve a complete series of these most inter-
esting animals, both skins and skeletons, so I set to work at once
without more ado. As I was eating my supper in the evening, the
t The following were the dimensions of this specimen :—
From the vertex of head to the end of the coccyx : ~ 0:70 eis
From the vertex to the soles of the feet F F ; iOS 9
Across the outstretched arms : ; ; : 3 yas)
Circumference of thorax at bottom of sternum : ; O71 et
144
x1] MY FIRST ORANG-UTAN
**Tukan mas,” or goldsmith of the village, came to tell me that he
had killed a Mayas, but the hour being late had left it in the
jungle. Three other Chinamen who were with him had remained
on the spot, partly to guard it, and partly in the hope of shooting
other specimens.
The Chinese at Marop were big and strong, and excellent walkers ;
they had come from Sambas, and were as well acclimatised as the
Dyaks themselves. In the evening they used to gather round me
and talk for an hour or two, asking me all sorts of questions on
Europe and the Europeans, while some of their queries were, per-
haps, somewhat less ingenuous than those of the Dyaks.
Next morning, March 27th,I finished preparing the skin of the
Mayas which had been brought to me on the previous day. At
noon they arrived with the one shot by the Tukan mas. It
would have made an excellent specimen had it not been spoiled by
the Chinaman who killed it, and who, in taking out the viscera, had
badly split with his parang both the sternum and the pelvis. It
was a male of the Mayas Kassa kind, and offered no appreciable
differences from the female I had prepared already. I measured it
carefully, with the following results :—
Total height (vertex to soles of feet) : . : : MPI a,
Across the outstretched arms DUO) 55
Trunk from vertex to coccyx . ; OV Bua
Circumference of thorax below sternum (the viscera having
been removed) : ' . ° . ° sp Me Oco/ie aren
I may here state that I always took the measurement of the
height by stretching the animal on the ground and measuring
the distance between the crown of the head or vertex to the under
surface of the heel. The exaggerated dimensions of the height of
orangs, given, nevertheless, by conscientious and trustworthy persons,
depend on having extended the latter measurement to the tips of
the toes. In other cases the body and limbs have been measured
along the curves instead of straight from point to point, which
naturally has increased the general dimensions.
The Mayas Kassa, which is the more common species of orang-
utan here, was now becoming well known to me, for I had in my
possession a male and two females quite adult, besides a young one.
The male, as I have remarked before, differs very slightly from the
female. I only noticed a small difference in the teeth, which may
possibly have been accidental. The male has a very small gap
between the canines and incisors, but in the female this space is
more marked.
I had heard of two other kinds of orang-utan, one called Mayas
Rambei, the other Mayas Tjaping. The first appeared to be only
slightly different from the Mayas Kassa, being described as smaller,
but with longer hair. The Mayas Tjaping, however, was very
145 iu
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
remarkable on account of its great size and the strange expansions
which widen its face. It appeared also to be much scarcer than the
Mayas Kassa, and I offered a reward of six dollars for every speci-
men brought to me in good condition. I also gave special instruc-
tions to the village hunters as to eviscerating the animal, and re-
moving the larger muscular masses in order to lessen the weight and
prevent decomposition, so rapid in this climate ; and this without
injuring the skin.
This morning one of my Malays escaped to Simanggan, for some
reason unknown to me; but the Malays area strange people, and even
their ideas appear to be nomadic, just like the life they best like.
I at once engaged a Dyak in his stead, a youth named Pagni, who
proved also useful in aiding me to compile a small Sea-Dyak dic-
tionary for my own use—a language much more distinct from the
Malay than is that of the Land-Dyaks.
The Dyaks of this part of the country are now quiet, and their
devotion to the Tuan Muda may be said to be unbounded. They
are at present also on good terms with the Chinese, but I believe
not from any love for them, and were it not for fear of the Rajah,
many a Chinaman’s head would even now be added to the grim
trophies hanging over the fireplaces of the Dyak houses. More
than once, jokingly of course, when on avisit to me at the Kunsi’s
house, they asked my permission to cut off the heads of the China-
men, but I am pretty sure that the joke concealed a covert hope
that I might grant them leave.
I had no reason to complain of the Chinese, but they had been
grumbling and expressing the wish that I should cease preparing
Mayas skins in their house. And, indeed, I must confess that they
were not entirely without excuse, for the odour of the skins and
skeletons, done in the rough, was not too pleasing, although I
sprinkled them abundantly with carbolic acid. The Chinese soon
learnt to appreciate the antiseptic virtue of the latter, and every
morning one or the other would come and beg me to dress some sore
or old wound with carbolic solution.
My orang skins caused me much trouble and anxiety, for the
damp, combined with the heat, made it most difficult to dry them
properly, and to prevent the cuticle from peeling off and the hair
from falling. To add to these difficulties the specimens were all
very fat, and it was indeed by no means an easy task to clean the
skins thoroughly.
Marop is an excellent station for a zoologist, but a poor one for
a botanist. Wherever the Dyaks had not made rice fields, the
forest had been long devastated in search of rotangs, bark, and
timber for building houses, etc. ; and this had rendered the more
useful natural products scarce. I can easily understand how edible
wild fruits or plants of economic value can disappear, with
146
xt] A LARGE “MAYAS TJAPING”
the native system of cutting down every tree of such a nature.
Nearly the whole extent of country I could see around Marop from
the hills was in this condition; or else covered with secondary
jungle, which had grown where the primeval forest had been
destroyed. This is usually invaded by a large fern (Pterts arach-
noidea, Kauff.) called rassam by the Malays, which produces long
tough stalks, and, being also semi-scandent, so binds together the
underwood as to render it practically impenetrable, and where it
abounds one is obliged to cut a passage through the jungle with the
parang. Large areas of the country are also covered with the com-
mon lalang grass, and with thicketsof “ onkodok”’ (the common
Melastoma). Such are in Borneo the * bad lands ” for the botanist.
The bits of primeval forest which [ had noticed on my way up
to Marop from the landing place on the river had evidently never
been turned into rice fields on account of their sterility, the soil
being entirely formed of white crystalline sand. The trees there
were small and somewhat stunted, but many species I found to be
peculiar and not growing in other places in the neighbourhood.
Although formed by different species, I believe that the areas
covered by this kind of forest correspond to those of the mattang
mentioned in previous chapters, and I am disposed to regard them
as ancient islands, as it were, left high and dry, on which the vegeta-
tion has continued unchanged since the time when they were sur-
rounded by the sea. This hypothesis would account for the special
character of the forest in such localities, so different from that of
the country all round.*
On returning one day from my daily morning excursion
to the forest in search of new plants for my herbarium, I
had sat down to skin the baby Mayas brought to me with the
first one I had prepared. I had tried to keep it alive, but it had a
broken arm, and had been badly shaken, so that my care was of no
avail, and it died. Whilst I was thus engaged, Atzon, my best
Chinese hunter, came in with a magnificent specimen of the Mayas
Tjaping tied to a pole and carried by two men, who, however,
had been obliged to get help on the way from the Dyaks, the weight
being too much for them. Entire, I do not believe that the creature
weighed less than 16 stone. Following my directions, the
viscera had been properly extracted without damaging either skin
or bone; a large part of the bigger muscles had also been removed,
and it was thus in excellent condition. It was also quite fresh,
having been killed in the gloaming of the previous evening whilst
asleep with its head on its hand on a big branch. It showed only
a he @ mattangs’’ appear to me to have a certain analogy with the
“campos.”’ of Brazil, which might also be considered ancient islands which
have been surrounded with alluvial lands of recent formation.
147
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
one wound, near the coccyx, the bullet having penetrated all the
viscera without touching a single bone.
It was a fully adult male, but the more experienced hunters
maintained that it had not by any means attained its full dimen-
sions. Atzon assured me that he had once killed a much bigger
one, very old, with hair nearly white, having lost its canine teeth
through age. Before skinning the animal my measurements,
taken with the precautions already mentioned, gave the following
results :—*
Total height from crown to sole of the feet (Some
little addition should be made to this measurement, for the
body was stiff and the legs much bent) 5 : ; - Je26oem=
Width of the extended arms : : : : . 2712 One
Length of trunk, crown to coccyx : POOLE
Circumference of thorax, just below sternum . : : UOSIO) gn
e of neck 6 ; . ; : . 407 OO
BS offorearm . ; : : 3 ; ORG5O 5,
6 of arm : ; 5 : : ' . O28 ORmeEy
53 of thigh ; . : : ; S CAO 4,
Omlest = : : : , : . | O200RmEEE
Width of the face 4 ; : : : : :\ O22 2a
Length of the face. : : : : : : O2I© 4,
The face is, beyond doubt, the most singular feature in this
animal. Certainly, considering that it is one of the anthropoids,
the resemblance to that of Man is very much hidden, I may well
1 Recently two living specimens of the “ Mayas Tjaping’’ reached
Europe, and were kept alive for some time in the Jardin @ Acclimatation at
Paris (cf. L’ Illustration, 13 janvier, 1894). Both were males, and had the
expansions on the face strongly developed ; in one, indeed, which must have
reached the fullest possible growth, they were extraordinarily so. This speci-
men, fully confirming the assertions of my hunter, had white hairs on the lips,
perhaps also a sign of great age. Its height from crown to sole was 1°40 m.
or 14 centim. more than the specimen shot by Atzon, but it should be stated
that the Paris specimen, besides the lateral face expansions, had a large fleshy
or fatty protuberance on the crown of the head, which must have added some-
what to its stature. The width of its extended arms was 19 centim. more
than in my specimen (8ft.7+in.); but even on this point it must be noted that
in orang-utans the fingers can never be fully extended, and this may cause
some difference in such measurements. On comparing the figure of the head
of the oldest of the two Mayas Tjaping which lived in Paris (published in an
excellent memoir in the Nouvelles Archives du Musée, 3° serie, vol. vii.
1895) with that of my biggest specimen, now mounted in the Museo Civico at
Genoa, which was modelled on the drawings and measurements which I took
in the flesh, I note that the Paris specimen presents a greater accentuation of
the features, owing probably to age, as may be often seen in aged individuals
of the human species. Thus the superciliary ridges are much more prominent,
the eyes more sunk, the fatty expansions thinner and more laminated than
in the specimen at Genoa, which was, I imagine, killed at the florid epoch of
middle age.
148
xr] SKINNING “MAYAS TJAPING”
say, masked ; and it is certainly less human than that of the Mayas
Kassa. The flat circular face of the Mayas Tjaping is very much
like that of the moon as given in popular almanacks. The eyes
are on a level with the skin, somewhat like those of a Chinese,
small, and with a chestnut-brown iris, while the very small amount
of sclerotic which is exposed at the corners of the eye is very dark
in colour.
The singular shape of the face of the Mayas Tjaping? is
due to the expansions of the cheeks, caused by an accumulation of
fat just over the masseter muscles in front of the ears, which are
thus hidden from view when the animal is looked at from in front.
These expansions are compressed and laminar, about an inch and a
halt thick, and not rounded as they are reproduced in badly mounted
museum specimens. The skin over them is tense and smooth.
Except as regard their position, they may be compared to the pro-
tuberances on the face of Sus verrucosus, or to the hump on the
back of Indian cattle. The colour of the naked portions of the face
is nearly black, or, rather, blackish olive. The body is covered
with very long hair of a deep fulvous red.
The skin was very thick and tough, and the operation of taking
it off extremely arduous and unpleasant, for I had to work on the
ground without proper tools, tormented all the time by ants, flies,
horse-flies, and mosquitoes, not to mention the excessive heat and
the unpleasant emanations. A Chinaman and my Dyak boy Pagni
helped me pretty well to get off the fat and clean the skin, and
afterwards to take the flesh off the bones.
Whilst I was thus hard at work another Mayas Kassa was
brought in, but it had been so badly mauled that neither the skin nor
the skeleton were worth preserving, even had I had time to attend
to it. It was pregnant, I learnt, but unfortunately the foetus
had been taken out and thrown away with the viscera. I
had put the skin of the already mentioned baby orang-utan
with a broken arm into spirits, for the huge Mayas Tjaping took
up all my time; in fact, I worked at its preparation all that day,
all the next, and part of the third. I was obliged to incise longi-
tudinally each of the fingers and toes to clean them thoroughly ;
even the terminal phalanges were taken out, so that both
skin and skeleton should be complete.” I dressed the bones
t Tjaping, in Malay, is the term applied to a small, nearly triangular or
heart-shaped piece of silver which is hung in front of baby girls as a fig-leaf,
and is, in the early years of their lives, the only bit of clothing they wear. Flat,
triangular, hemihedric diamonds are called Intang tjaping because they;
have the same shape as the silver Tjaping ; and for the same reason, I believe,
the term has been applied to the broad-faced orang-utan.
* This specimen, perhaps one of the best in existence, is in the Museo
Civico at Genoa.
149
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
well with arsenical soap, which prevented putrefaction, and
kept them from the ravages of animals, and, tying them up
together in a bundle, I hung them under the roof of a hut
which was occasionally used as a blacksmith’s shed, where they
could dry without giving me further trouble. But the task of pre-
serving the skin was another affair altogether, for the season was
rainy and the dampness excessive. I therefore covered it on both
sides with arsenical soap, wherever the hair did not prevent it, and,
placing it on a bamboo grating, where it lay flat, I hoisted it up
under the roof in the middle of the hut, so that it might
dry well with plenty of air all round. If necessary, I might
have lighted a fire in the hut to dry the air—not to attempt
to dry the skin by such means, which would have been
a great mistake. Skins of animals collected in _ tropical
climates where the air is damp should never be dried over a fire or
exposed to the sun’s rays, for by so doing they undergo a sort of
cooking, and either get excessively brittle, or else remain liable to
absorb damp, so that it is difficult to mount them afterwards as
museum specimens, for if they do not fall to pieces they lose both
cuticle and hair.
The consequence of this hard work on big mammal skins and
skeletons with inefficient tools was that my hands and fingers were
more or less cut, and the arsenic getting into the wounds and under
the nails caused painful sores, which suppurated.
On the first of April fine weather returned, and we had a bright
sun and a pleasant breeze. This was good for my skins, whose pre-
servation was causing me no little anxiety. I had not only to fight
against the pernicious effects of the climate, but against ants, rats,
and, above all, dogs. Of the latter no less than seven were kept in
the Kunsi’s house, and fattened to be eaten on grand occasions.
Notwithstanding my constant attention, and although I placed
the skins in positions which I fancied to be quite secure, I discovered
that the heel of one of them, which was nearly dry, had been
gnawed. A dog had done the damage, and had got at the skin by
climbing up a pole, just like a cat. Certainly, up to that date I had
no idea that Chinese dogs were capable of climbing.
For several days I had been aware that the Kunsi was not
pleased at my being in his house, and would have been glad to see
me go elsewhere. He said that the orang-utans stank and spoilt
his meals. This may have been true, although’ a horror of bad
smells is scarcely what one would expect in a Chinaman, but I
believe the real fact was that he attributed a malevolent influence
to my work, fearing, perhaps, that the irate spirits of the big apes
might wander near their mortal remains and clamour for vengeance.
I was very nearly obliged to employ violence whilst skinning the
big Mayas Tjaping, for the Kunsi wanted it carried out of the
150
xr] A STRANGE CURE
house. The Dyaks present grinned, and whispered to me not to
bother, and that if I only said the word they would soon have the
heads of all those Chinese pigs.
From what I could make out the diabolic influence af my deeds
was considered already to be at work, having prostrated an. old
Chinaman by severe illness ; but I believe that the poor fellow was
Fig. 30.—ADULT MALE MAYAS TJAPING.
already ailing, and suffering from an attack of typhoid fever when I
arrived at Marop. The Chinamen, however, had got it into their
heads that my orangs had reduced him to a dying condition. I
witnessed the singular treatment to which they subjected the poor
sufferer. They made him swallow two pills as big as cherries,
of a composition unknown to me, poking them down his throat
with their fingers. He was then obliged to smoke opium several
I51
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP. XI
times, walking up and down the room, and when he could no longer
move through sheer weakness, they put him to bed, taking thither
the opium-smoking apparatus. To get him away, I believe, from
the evil influences of which I was the cause, they carried him to
another house. But as he was in a high fever, they soon after took
him down to the stream, and kept him immersed in the water for a
quarter of an hour. Apparently the use of a bath to keep down
fever has been practised in China long before it was known to us.
After the bath they made him swallow two bananas, and then
obliged him to smoke opium repeatedly. The next morning the
poor old man was dead, which was not surprising. And yet they
believed that my Mayas had killed him !
On the 3rd April the weather was again damp and rainy, and
I became anxious about my orang skins. I accordingly had a fire
lighted in the smithy to endeavour to keep the air in the hut as dry
as possible. After breakfast I was told that a Mayas had been seen
in the vicinity, so I sallied forth with my gun and followed my
guides. In less than twenty minutes they showed me a big tree,
about 150 feet high, on which, sure enough, I saw the animal, still
in the same place where it had been first seen. It was partially
hidden amidst the branches, and would not move, although we
made plenty of noise. From where I stood at the foot of the tree
it was a difficult shot, for I had to aim nearly vertically upwards
I fired first one and then a second shot, but could not make out
whether I had hit him or not ; he then slowly moved, but did not
leave the tree. This was growing at the bottom of a deep ravine,
so I climbed up one of the slopes, and was then able to see the creature
well ; it was looking down, and was evidently badly wounded. I
got a good position, and, after a careful aim, fired again. This time
the Mayas fell crashing through the branches, which happily some-
what broke its fall, or, from the immense height of its perch, it
would have reached the ground a bag of broken bones. When I
got to it, it was quite dead. My last bullet had gone clean through its
heart and had passed out at the nape of the neck, splitting the occi-
pital bone. I noticed that as soon as it fell it gave off a peculiar
odour of venison. It proved to be a half-grown male, and the girth
of the thorax, just below the sternum, was 62 centim. I preserved
the skin of this specimen in spirits, and on my return presented it
to my former teacher in zoology, Professor Paolo Savi, of the
University of Pisa, where it is now mounted in the Zoological
Museum. ;
152
CHAPTER Xa
BEAUTIFUL BUTTERFLIES—A CHINESE DINNER—THE GOOD AND THE EVIL
oF OplumM—A YounGc Mayas—ExXcuRSION TO THE TIANG LAayu—A
PorlsoNnoUs SNAKE—HILL PIGS—VEGETATION ON THE SUMMIT OF TIANG
Layju—-PHOSPHORESCENCE IN THE Forest—Dyak PREJUDICES-—
THE BEAR AND THE ANTS—UPAS CLOTH—NESTS OF BIRDS—
ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL NOVELTIES—WILD BANANAS—-A DIs-
GUSTING FLOWER—THE IKkAN TION—CuRIOoUS MEANS OF DEFENCE
IN CERTAIN ANTS—THE CLULUT AND ITs NEST-—THE SUPPOSED FEMALE
oF Mayas Tyaprinc—A ForTUNATE ORANG HUNT.
T last, with the first days of April, we had a spell of fine weather.
With the sunshine beautiful butterflies made their appear-
ance,and amongst them the gorgeous Ormithoptera Brookeana, with
its great velvet wings; an insect which Nature has adorned with
few but indescribably brilliant colours. These splendid creatures
flew through the village of Marop, but their flight was so rapid that
I did not succeed in capturing any. I was, however, more fortunate
in getting several other fine species. Finding the season favour-
able I continued collecting insects, especially Coleoptera, which
came out from their hiding places in unusual numbers, attracted,
no doubt, by the bright sunshine after so many dull and rainy days.
On the 5th April a Chinese féte occurred, and at the Kunsi’s
house a big dinner was given, to which I had been invited. Ci. Report of the Scientific Results of the Voyage of H.M.S. Challenger.
Botany, 1. 1. Ixiv. E.
187
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP.
are capable of surviving a long immersion during the periodical
annual floods. Analogous cases occur in the low regions of the
Brazils, about the mouth of the Amazons. Some of the plants
of the lakes show perhaps a certain correlation with mangroves
in their habitus and manner of growth; but the water was too
deep to allow me to see how their roots behaved. Instead of being
seashore or estuarine, they might be described as lake-shore trees.
Of true marsh plants the only species I met with at Ruma Segrat
was Limnophila sessiliflora, Bl. I saw no trace of any Nympheaceae,
Hydrocharids, pond-weeds, or other really palustrine species, nor
any of those plants which in marshes contribute to form peat.
Not a Graminacea, not a Cyperacea ; plants, it is true, which, had
they grown there, would have been then under water. The nearly
total absence in Borneo of floating aquatic plants must be attributed
to the facility with which waters flow and circulate, the constant
and copious rainfall rendering stagnant pools an impossibility.
I found the Dyak house at Lampei contained more dogs
than human beings, and at night it was hard to sleep on account
of the noise they made. They were small, famished, miserable
creatures, all skin and bone, and were allowed to roam about freely
at night. The result was that they played havoc with my already
scarce provisions, managing to gnaw through a rotang basket in
which I had placed my tinned meats, and although these latter
were unopened, they bit through the tins, and tasting the liquid
which ran out, carried them off, scattering them all over the house.
They even gnawed the cork stoppers of some bottles, and one
of them went so far as to adopt my hat as his kennel. When my
cook, Kisoi, awoke, and discovered the destruction they had caused,
he took his revenge by serving out to them morsels of rice in which
he had put doses of the arsenical soap I used for preserving animal
skins. We never knew the results of this early breakfast on the
poor brutes, for when the sun rose we were well on our way towards
the Kantu.
As we again crossed Danau Lamadjan, I noted the paucity
of birds. The only marsh-loving species I saw was a white egret
perched on the top of a tree. The natives, however, told me that
when the waters are low the place is populated with hosts of shore
birds which come to breed there. I did not see a single monkey
or any other mammal. In these localities a long narrow-snouted
crocodile, Tomistoma Schlegelu, Miull., ought to be found. It
was long thought peculiar, and one of the characteristic reptiles
of Borneo, but it has been since found in Sumatra and in the Malay
Peninsula. I never had the good fortune to meet with it, but it
is not infrequent in Sarawak, especially on the Sadong. Its nearest
ally is the well-known garial or gavial of India."
1 “ Garial’’ in Hindustani means ‘“‘a fish-eater.’’ It is probable that
188
xtt.] FRESHWATER ALG
As we again entered the Umpanang, I stopped to collect speci-
mens of all the plants in blossom which I could find. The waters
must have been extraordinarily high for a long while, for I found
that the leaves of the submerged trees were covered by a thin coat-
ing of alge, probably Diatomacee. In the vicinity of Segrat
I stopped at a mattang, on which grew a species of Eugetssonia
(E. ambigua*t). I at first thought that this palm was the same
as one which grows in the Malay Peninsula, but most probably
it must be considered as a distinct species. The mattang on which
it grew was hardly six feet above the actual level of the water ;
it was, indeed, the only dry bit of land for miles around. It was
also marked by the presence of the umbrella casuarina (** Ru
yvonan”’ or “Ru umbon” ot the Malays). I have already stated
that I consider these isolated spots of raised land sticking up from
the surrounding plain to have been ancient islands of the sea.
The one on which I found the Eugerssonia is a remarkable and
instructive instance to the point.
We once more passed a night at Segrat, even a more miserable
one than before, with the dogs and the swarms of mosquitoes. It was
insupportably hot. To add to our discomfort the hut was now
hardly habitable, for the streaming rain came through the rotten
old attaps in torrents. All night it fell, and the incessant roar on
the roof, combined with the other local amenities, entirely prevented
me from getting any sleep. I was tormented, too, with the idea
‘that the waters would rise so as to prevent our being able to ascend
the Kantu on our way back. At dawn next morning, although it
was still raining, I gave the order to start. Even my men were
heartily glad to get away from the place, and they paddled away
with a will, notwithstanding the pouring rain, which fell on their
naked shoulders, while I tried my best to obtain what shelter
I could crouched up under a kadjan mat in the middle of my boat.
At last, when it pleased heaven, the sun peeped out.
On the way we made frequent stoppages, for I wished to secure
specimens of all the flowering plants which I had not collected
elsewhere. Partly on this account, and partly because the current
against us was growing stronger, we hardly succeeded during the
day in getting over half the distance we had managed on our out-
ward, down-stream journey. We halted at Ampar, a small Dyak
village, when the sun was low, and my men completely tired out.
The bad weather followed us, and we had hardly got into the
house when the rain, which had ceased awhile, came down again
the Tomistoma has the same habits as the former, and is not dangerous
to man. Fossil Tomistomas, or allied forms, have been found in miocene
deposits in Malta and Sardinia.
1 Cf. BEccARI. Nuovo Giornale Botanico Italiano, vol. i. p. 28.
189
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
in torrents. The roof of bark under which we were was out of
repair; and afforded very poor shelter; but no better was to be
had. I was in a state bordering on despair on account of
the botanical specimens I had collected during the day; they
were already wet, and now when I placed them to dry on the floor
of the house they were deluged again by the water which streamed
from the roof.
We were now near the foot of Gunong Kananpei, the hill which
we had seen from Lampei, but it is not visible from the river, being
hidden by the trees on the banks.
The following day we paddled continuously against the current.
I only had a halt of a couple of hours to dry my botanical paper
at a fire, for the weather was so variable, with sudden rain-
storms, that I could not spread it, as usual, in the sun. On the
next day, too, the 19th, we paddled for ten hours consecutively,
with only slight rests for collecting flowering plants. I saw on
the trees many Mayas nests, but none of these creatures them-
selves. Other monkeys were numerous, especially the kra, which
were not at all timid, and came close to our boat. At the request
of the Dyaks, who wanted them for their dinner, I shot several.
We passed Grogo, where we had been obliged to remain three
nights on our way down. We continued paddling up the river
until we came to the Kantupa, an insignificant stream, into which
we turned aside to leave the boats. There was a house there, but
we marched on on foot, and in about an hour, at dusk, reached
the house-village of Intika, the Orang Tua who had accom-
panied me during the trip, and had proved so useful in many ways.
Intika was a very intelligent man, and [ had seen him treated
with respect at all the villages we passed through, and to him,
no doubt, in great measure was due the success of my excursion.
He was also a good diplomatist, and asserted that he wished to
be on a good footing both with the Sarawak and the Dutch
authorities, though the Kantu Dyaks did not appear to look up
to the latter much.
The twentieth of May was a well-earned day of rest for my men,
who had paddled for three days from morning to night against
the current of the Kantu. I myself was glad of a little respite
- in Intika’s house, one of the cleanest I had yet seen, and I
had to sort and dry. the plants I had collected.
Next day Iawoke my men at 4a.m.,soas to be ready to start at
6 am. I wished now to get back at Marop as soon as_ possible
in order to ensure the preservation of my collections, which, on
account of the constant bad weather, I had been unable to dry, or
even to keep from the rain.
We tramped along briskly for five hours, the carriers having
lighter loads now that our provisions were consumed. But it rained
190
XIII. | RETURN TO MAROP
all the way. On Bukit Tundon, a hill we had crossed on our
way out, I only collected three plants, which I found within reach
by the side of the path ; they proved to be three herbaceous forest
forms, beautiful, interesting, and new to science.t We rested
an hour to cook and eat our rice, and started off again, and after
another four hours’ tramp we reached Kumpang in the evening,
having accomplished in one day what had required two when we
were outward bound to the lakes. I believe that the distance
covered must have been about eighteen miles, for we walked
briskly for nine hours. Even under the best conditions, and along
the best roads, it is difficult in Borneo to travel on foot more than
two miles per hour. Before we got to Kumpang we were over-
taken by another deluge of rain.
Early next morning, May 22nd, we once more started in the rain.
On passing by the spot where I had observed the Nepenthes
on the way out I found my mark; but, unfortunately, the
plants I wanted had vanished. Some Chinamen who had come
here for the gold washings had built a hut near the spot, and in
searching for rotang or other trailers to use as rope had evidently
cut the Nefenthes, whose long, thin, tough stems are often
used for tying.
We reached Marop a little before midday. We had marched
consecutively for six hours; but this time the distance could not
have been more than ten miles, for we had to travel along narrow
pathways on a clay soil, much trodden by Chinamen, and rendered
slippery by therain. Justas we got to the Kunsi’s house, my home
in Marop, the rain came down again in torrents. Happily, we
were now under good shelter, and my collections were safe.
The species of plants collected during this excursion were about
120, almost all different from those which I had hitherto found in
Sarawak. Ina country where the greater portion of the vegetation
is arboreal it is not in hurried trips that rich collections can be
formed. Even if one succeeds in getting some of the more con-
spicuous species occurring within hand-reach along the path, the
more important forms, those of the true forest type—the big trees
—still remain to be got; and to collect these, as I have already
remarked, a long stay at different localities and during different
seasons is required.
Amongst the botanic collections brought back from my excur-
sion to the lakes were very few Avace@, or orchids, which appear
to be scarce in the country I crossed. Even palms were rare, for
I only got the Eugeissonia already mentioned ; but I did see a few
rotangs. Pandani, which are usually so common in lowlands,
1 Didymocarpus Beccavit, C. B. Clarke; D. Kompsobea, C. B. Clarke,
two fine Gesneracee ; and Allomorphia multinervia Cogn, a Melastomacea.
191
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
gave me but a single species. On the whole, the flora of the lake-
region appeared to me much less rich than that of Sarawak.
As a philological curiosity I shall give the names of the Dyaks
who went with me on the trip. They were :—Sigu Wat, Ih, Uyu,
Munao, Udjal, Unka, Ladjan, and Intika.
I employed May 24th in collecting and preparing some aquatic
plants, to which the Chinese,in damming freshwater streams for
the operations of gold washing, had furnished the necessary con-
ditions of existence, conditions which seldom or never occur natur-
ally in the country.
It is very difficult to discover how long Chinamen have been
settled in the auriferous region of Marop. Probably the gold
washings have been taken up and abandoned over and over again.
As a consequence of these operations water-holes and small stag-
nant pools have been formed which are not covered by forest.
In these I collected a Notella (the only one I met with in Borneo),
a Utricularia (U. exoleta, R.B.), which I had found in the padi-
fields at Singhi, and about ten species of freshwater alge, which
are scarce in Borneo,’ simply because stagnant waters which
are not at once invaded by arboreal vegetation are met with only
very exceptionally, and are then generally the result of landslips,
or the work of man. Small stagnant pools in which the water
is not renewed are only formed during unusual periods of dryness ;
but such conditions in Sarawak probably last at the utmost from
ten to fifteen days. Here rain is almost of daily occurrence, and
the constant changing or washing out of the water of such pools
prevents alge from establishing themselves and developing.
At Marop the Chinese had gardens, in which certain foreign
plants which appear to follow man in all his migrations had gained
a footing. Amongst these were several grasses, especially a
Digitaria, called by the Chinese “Isu-mion,” which had here
extended to and completely infested the rice fields. Another
Digitaria keeps to orchards and gardens, together with a Poa
(P.B. No. 3,291) called ‘“‘Gniam-kum-so,” Eleusine indica,
and Elephantopus scaber, a composite, the “ Chisam-teo”’
of Chinamen. Near the houses grew Adenosma (Pterostigma)
villosum, a scrophulariaceous plant used medicinally by the Chinese,
who call it “‘Sa-chou-con. Paspalum congugatum, another grass
which might be useful if more cultivated as pasture, is also common.
The Malays call it ‘““Rumput orang-puti,” or “ Rumput sapi,”
which means white man’s or cow grass. It makes excellent
cattle food, and the Malays assert that it has been introduced by
1 Tetraspora gelatinosa, C. Ag. ; Tolypothrix flexuosa, Zan. ; T. distorta,
Leptothrix punctiformis, Zan; Conferva fontinalis var. ochvacea, Zan. ;
Zygnema sp., Rhizoclonium sp., Batrachospermum Borneense, Zan.
192
x11 | PASPALUM CONJUGATUM
Europeans, and that before Rajah Brooke’s time it was unknown
in Sarawak. It is, nevertheless, widely spread throughout the whole
of tropical America, Brazil, Mexico, etc.; and now in Borneo
it has spread into the interior on cleared lands of a fertile kind,
especially along the river banks. It is a plant which cannot
escape the notice of anybody who goes about in Borneo, for its
small eared seeds get easily detached when ripe, and stick on to
the dress and shoes, especially when the grass is damp. This
is a very efficient method of distribution, which is obtained neither
by viscosities, nor by awns or hooks, as in other widely spread
grasses, but simply by the long hairs on the margins of the glumes,
which, when wet, adhere to any passing object.
CHAPTER XIV
DIFFERENT SPECIES OF ORANG-UTAN—THEIR MHAaBiTatT, Foop, ETC.—
PECULIARITIES AND HasBits—THE SUMATRAN ORANG—AN ORANG
Fatus—BoRNEO AND THE PRECURSORS OF MAN—ADAPTATION TO
ENVIRONMENT—VARIABILITY OF SPECIES—A NEW THEORY OF EVOLU-
TION—-CONDITIONS NECESSARY FOR THE EVOLUTION OF MAN AND THE
ANTHROPOIDS—THE HUMANIZATION OF THE ANTHROPOIDS—THE PLACE
OF ORIGIN OF MAN.
URING my absence at the lakes Atzon, my skilful Chinese
hunter, had prepared three skeletons of orangs according to
the instructions [ had given him ; namely, roughly cleaning the bones
of the flesh, leaving them all attached by the ligaments, and drying
them at once at a slow fire. In this way putrefaction and bad
smells are prevented, and the operation can be easily performed
anywhere. Lastly, to imsure against insects and other animal
pests who might gnaw the ligaments, the bones are carefully
painted over with a thick layer of arsenical soap. Of the skeletons
thus prepared one was that of a young female ; one of a male Mayas
Tjaping, slightly larger than the one whose skin I had _pre-
viously prepared ; and the third was also a specimen of the latter
race, but its sagittal crest was less developed in height, and
shorter, although wider, than in the other specimens I had of its
kind. I should thus have supposed that the last skeleton was that
of a female, but Atzon was positive that it was that of a male,
and one with very long hair.
This was the last specimen of orang-utan which I got at Marop.
All told, I had got either the entire skeletons or portions of twenty-
four individuals. Later, Atzon brought me several other heads
of Mayas Tjaping from the same district. But with all this
I came away from Marop without having been able to solve
the doubts I had regarding the species or races of orang-utan.
Moreover, I was not able to ascertain with certainty whether the
adult female Mayas Tjaping can occasionally develop the
lateral expansions of the cheeks which are so characteristic in the
adult male, or whether she is always without them. But the fact
remained that amongst the many Mayas which I had been able
to examine not a single female presented the slightest trace of such
cheek-expansions. Wallace, too, before me appears to have had
194
cHap. xiv| DIFFERENT SPECIES OF ORANG-UTAN
exactly the same experience, and even expresses the conviction
that the adipose cheek-expansions are peculiar to adult males.
On the other hand, however, many Dyaks at Marop assured me
repeatedly that the female Mayas Tjaping has cheek-expan-
sions like those of the male. This was further confirmed by the
testimony of intelligent Malays, and amongst others by the Tuanku
Yassim, mentioned in the earlier part of this book. Lastly, the
Kev. Mr. Mesney, one of the missionaries whom I had met at Ban-
teng, told me that he had himself shot a female Mayas with cheek
expansions, and, moreover, that it had a young one with it, still
suckling, which also had these singular lateral appendages to its
face.
Later, during subsequent travels, I had several opportunities
of examining living specimens of orang-utan, and give here the
following extracts from my note-book :—
“6 xu. 1877. I have seen in the Calcutta Zoological Gardens
two orang-utans which had had young. The male showed
rudiments of the cheek-expansions ; it was as big as the female,
which had none, and looked like a Mayas Kassa, fully grown, or
nearly so.”
“xu. 1877. I have examined at Buitenzorg two living orang-
utans in the possession of Mr. Teysmann; both very young and
males, and both provided with very visible cheek-expansions. They
were the size of the one I shot at Marop on the 3rd of April, 1867,
which is now mounted in the University Zoological Museum at Pisa.
About the same time, in the Zoological Gardens at Batavia, I saw
another yet smaller specimen of orang-utan ; it also had visible
cheek-expansions, but I did not ascertain the sex.”
It is, therefore, a well ascertained fact that there are both very
young as well as fully adult males provided with adipose lateral
cheek-expansions, and others, both young and adult, who have not a
trace of them. This has induced Wallace and others to express
the opinion that at least two species of orang-utan exist in Borneo.
Summing up from what I have myself observed and from the
information collected, we come to the following conclusions :—
1. That there is no well-authenticated case of a female orang
with lateral face-expansions. That nevertheless there is some
evidence to show that such expansions may be met with, if not
constantly, at all events occasionally, in the female.
2. That there are young orangs yet in their milk dentition
which have well-developed cheek-expansions. These are thus
manifestly not a character of age, as the late A. Milne-Edwards has
suggested.
3. That adult individuals are found with the expansions rudi-
mentary.
There is no doubt that the presence or absence of these lateral
195
IN BORNEAN . FORESTS [ CHAP.
cheek-expansions makes a very great difference in the physiognomy
of these apes. Thus whilst the aspect of an ordinary orang-utan,
especially if young, is very human, that of the Mayas Tjaping,
with its lateral expansions, is much less so than that of many other
monkeys.
I do not think that any zoologist at the sight of two orangs of
the same age, one with, and the other without cheek-expansions,
would hesitate a moment in considering them distinct species.
To my eye the difference is, indeed, greater than that between
Fig. 30.—SKULL OF MAYAS KASSA (4).
the Bactrian camel with its two humps and the Arabian animal
with one, which are unanimously considered by naturalists as
different species. But on the other hand have we not in our own kind
the Hottentot women provided with those adipose protuberances
which constitute the so-called steatopygia ? Yet this has not caused
any competent anthropologist to separate these people, and con-
sider them as specifically distinct from the rest of mankind.
Steatopygia in the human species or in other mammals being
merely a local accumulation of fat, corresponds perfectly, except
196
XIv | STEATOPARESIS
with regard to position, to the adipose cheek-expansions observed
in orang-utans, to which the term “‘ Steatoparesis ”’ (fatty cheeks),
might be conveniently applied. And the analogy might even be
extended to the fatty tail of certain races of sheep, to the hump of
the zebu, and perhaps to the facial warts of certain pigs. *
In the Mayas, moreover, the steatoparesis bears a definite rela-
tion to certain cranial characters. Amongst the skulls of these
orangs there are some quite smooth along the vertex, like a human
Fig. 37.—SKULL OF MAYAS TJAPING (4).
skull, others, instead, present a well-marked median sagittal crest,
which corresponds to the insertions of the big temporal muscles ;
and in addition, at right angles to the latter, a great lambdoidal
crest rises across the skull from ear to ear. As a general rule, when
cheek-expansions are not present there are no cranial crests, and
this is the case also in fully adult and very aged specimens. Thus
1 A beginning of steatoparesis, or fatty thickening of the cheeks between
' these and the ears, is sometimes apparent in the human species in stout,
well-fed persons,
197
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
the wider are the “tjapings,” or cheek-expansions, the greater
is the development of the cranial crest; and we are led to suppose
that there is a sort of correlation and that the first character is
the cause of the second one. Of course, the augmented weight of the
head and consequent development of the cranial muscles may also
contribute to the enlargement of these crests which, as a general
rule, grow with age in all the Anthropomorpha.'
I do not know of any well-authenticated specimen of the skull
of a young orang-utan, during the period of the first dentition,
with lateral face expansions, and cannot, therefore, say whether
in that stage there are or are not signs of any development of the
cranial crests. As far as I am aware no skull of a female orang,
of any race, is known with crests.
I have observed cases of abnormal dentition even in the series
of orang-utan skulls which I collected. Thus that of a female
Mayas Kassa had two small fourth molars in the lower jaw,
and corresponding supernumerary molars in the upper jaw, still
enclosed in their alveoli.
All the orang-utans which I collected—at least all those of which
I preserved the skin or the skeleton—were without a nail on the great
toe or hallux, or had it reduced to a mere rudiment. Moreover,
this peculiarity was associated with the absence of the ungual
phalanx in that toe. but specimens of orang-utan are known, both
from Borneo and from Sumatra, in which both the nail and the
terminal phalanx of the hallux are well developed. Again, it appears
that this character is not in any connected with the presence or |
absence of cheek-expansions, and that there are Mayas Tjaping
with, and others without, a nail on their great toes. This has not
prevented specific value being given to the character affecting the
extremity of the hallux, and the name of Szmza bicolor has been con-
ferred on those orang-utans which possess a terminal phalanx
and a nail on their great toes.
I may remark that the specimens devoid of these two parts offer
an example of the extreme effects of disuse and the non-practice
of. terrestial locomotion ; the development of the hallux having
diminished in importance to the corresponding advantage of that
of the other toes, which, under the conditions of a purely arboreal
existence, have assumed functions more similar to those of the
fingers. ;
After all that has been said, what conclusions can we come to
regarding the question of a plurality of species amongst the orang-
utans 2? The answer is much more difficult than anyone who is not
a zoologist might be led to suppose. For the laity there are big
1 It is to be remarked that on the skulls of adult gorillas the develop-
ment of bony crests is very conspicuous, although these anthropoids are devoid
of fatty cheek-expansions.
198
Sai] ) 5 TWO FORMS OF ORANG-UTAN
orangs with a wide face and lateral cheek-expansions, and smaller
orangs without such expansions; some have short, other have
long hair, and thus at least two or three kinds may be distinguished.
But for the naturalist the question is a very different one, and is
connected with one of the most discussed and disputed points in
zoology. However, I shall now venture to give my own opinion on
the case, in accordance with the facts I have observed and the
materials | have at my command.
From a careful examination of specimens in the flesh, and from
the preparation of a number of skeletons with my own hands,
I have come to the conclusion that it is rare to meet with two
specimens of orang-utan perfectly alike, even when of the same age
and sex, and belonging to the same race. Professor Henry Giglioli
arrived at a similar conclusion after studying the series of crania
which I collected, now in the Museo Civico at Genoa.*
There exist, however, as I have more than once stated, two
forms of orang especially distinct from the others. One possesses
lateral adipose cheek-expansions and highly developed cranial
crests: this is the Mayas Tjaping. The second form, even when
perfectly adult, has no lateral cheek-expansions, and its skull is
devoid of strongly pronounced crests: this is the Mayas Kassa.
I do not attach much importance to the third form, distinguished
by the natives as Mayas Rambei, on account of its long hair.
It is possible that in a remote past the Mayas Tjaping
and the Mayas Kassa were two quite distinct species, perhaps
having their origin in separate regions, and only later coming into
contact on the same area. The cheek-expansions may possibly
have been developed in those individuals living (during the period
of specific malleability to which I have before alluded) in localities
where there was an abundance of nutritious food, which was
devoured immoderately by them, and eventually stored, in
the form of fat, in their distended cheeks. On the other hand, the
Mayas Kassa at the same evolutive period may have lived in
localities where food was equally but sparingly distributed through-
out the year, and the need for the storage of fat did not exist. At
present, however, it seems hardly likely that the two races should
remain distinct, for individuals of each are found promiscuously in
the same locality, and even on the same tree.
I am thus inclined to suppose that Mayas Tjaping can
give birth to young both with and without cheek expansions, and
to any intermediate form, i.e. with rudimentary “ tjapings.” Nor
do I see any impossibility in the theory that from a Mayas
Kassa a Mayas Tjaping may be born, just as a human couple
1 E. H. Gieriot1. Studi Craniologici suit Chimpanse, etc,; in Annalt
Museo Civico di Genova, vol. iii. p.56. Genoa, 1872.
199
IN BORNEAN FORESTS ~ [CHAP. XIV
of dark complexion may have fair children, and vice versa, accord-
ing to the influence of dark or fair ancestors in the family tree
of the two families. I, therefore, hold that only one species of
orang-utan really exists—the Sima satyrus ; of which I distinguish
two main varieties, retaining for them the native names of
‘“ Tjaping’’ and “ Kassa.”
Orang-utans are tolerably common in the southern parts of
Borneo, especially in the districts of Bandjarmasin, Pontianak,
and Sambas. In Sarawak they are common on certain rivers,
especially in the districts of the Sadong and the Batang Lupar. On
the Sarawak river, as I have said before, they are very rare; it
has even been stated that they are non-existent, but this is not
so, and I have heard of an orang-utan killed at Singhin, not far from
Kuching. On Gunong Bungo it appears that they are always to be
found. I may add that the Dyaks of the Upper Sarawak have
special names for the orang-utans, and call the~Mayas Kassa
‘““Sekao”’ and the Mayas Tjaping, “Mara.” According to Mr.
St. John (Of. cit. ii. p. 156), orangs are also found in the Muput
country on the Limbang.
The orang-utan inhabits the hills and plains alike; but does
not care to climb very high up the mountains, co!d not being at all
to its hking. On the Marop hills, at an altitude of from 300 to 500
feet or so, it is very frequent; but it loves also the lowlands and
marshes along the Lingga and Sadong rivers, especially where
pandani grow, for it delights in the “ calbbages ” of these plants,
as well as those of various palms.
In captivity, orangs are generally badly kept, being overfed
with sweet fruits, especially bananas. In a wild state they feed
largely on leaves and buds, and sour, astringent, and, to our
taste, wholly unpalatable fruits, very often unripe. They like padi
(unhusked rice), and I believe this, with acorns, chestnuts, bread, and
potatoes, would be the most wholesome food we can give them in
our own climate. The creatures often do great damage to the rice
fields, when the rice is ripe. Usually strictly arboreal, they descend
at such times to the ground, and, on reaching the padi fields, collect
a big sheaf of rice with the heavy ripe ears, and, holding it under
the arm, get back to their tree, up which they climb, and enjoy their
plunder in peace and comfort on their nests. They do much injury
to the fruit-trees, and are especially fond of durians, committing
great ravages among them even when unripe. The Dyaks were,
therefore, much delighted when we killed them, though the Banteng
Dyaks arean exception. They venerate the animal for a singular
reason. Once upon a time, the legend runs, enemies came to attack
their village, but the orang-utans, moved by curiosity, showed them-
selves in large numbers, and the enemy, mistaking them for men,
were frightened and took to their heels.
200
Fig. 38.—ORANGS OF THE MAYAS KASSA RACE, ON A DURIAN TREE.
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
It is not improbable that in many districts in Borneo the orang
has been driven away or exterminated by man, especially where
the deadly “sumpitan ” is used; for it is so large an animal, and
so seldom attempts to fly when it is discovered, that it is easily
killed. It is never dangerous, except when wounded ; but then its
bites are very severe, quite capable of taking off the fingers of a
man’s hand or inflicting other severe injuries. There would, too,
be small chance for a weaponless man who found himself in
the grip of the long and powerful arms. I have heard the story
told of a Dyak who was caught by an orang-utan, and who saved
himself by pretending to be dead. When irritated a Mavas
‘becomes furious; its neck swells out from the distention of its great
laryngeal sacs, and it emits fearful howls.
The Mayas has few enemies excepting man, being undoubtedly
the strongest animal in the forests of Borneo. Tales are told of
its fights with the bear, the crocodile, and the python, all of which
are vanquished by it and killed by its formidable bites.
According to my hunter, Atzon, orang-utans are sometimes
attacked by ague, or some similar intermittent fever, and he
asserts that he has seen them shivering on their nests when the
temperature could not account for this.
I have not ascertained how and when these animals drink. In
a country where rain is so frequent, it 1s very probable that they
do not take the trouble to descend from the trees to drink in a
neighbouring stream, but manage to obtain sufficient water from _
the dripping leaves, using the highly extensible lower lip for this
purpose.
It has been stated that, when wounded, a Mayas will endeavour
to stay the bleeding by applying its hand to the wound; and
some have gone so far as to assert that it dresses the latter with
leaves. My experience does not bear this out; but I have seen a
wounded orang examine its wound in a very human manner, and
even touch it with its fingers, apparently moved more by curiosity
than by anything else.
Even the biggest orang-utans move freely on the branches of
trees, but if they have to pass overhead from one tree to another
they always try the branches beforehand, to make sure that they
can support their weight. They climb with ease the big trunks of
trees, embracing them with their long and powerfularms. I have,
however, noticed that if a creeper is handy they prefer it, and ascend
it with great rapidity. They make better progress, in short, by
the lianas than by the tree-trunk, especially if the latter be thick.
When they want to get along rapidly they use their arms chiefly,
the feet serving more to make their jumps secure than anything
else.
In the orang-utan, compared with man, the proportions of the
202
xiv | EIMMBS OF THE ORANG
limbs are reversed. The arms take the place of legs, and become
the principal organs of locomotion. Their movements in passing
from one tree to another are very similar to those of the Wa-wa
(Hylobates), but much slower. On sloping branches the animal
walks on its feet and helps itself on by its hands. On the ground
they are very clumsy, for they cannot extend the foot so as to
Yel ~
Hi, SSS
Fig. 39.—A. BONES OF LEFT HAND, AND B. OF LEFT FOOT OF ORANG (3).
place the sole on the ground, but walk on the external edge of the
foot, which is kept bent. The two hands are applied to the ground
by the knuckles, the hand being closed and the fingers bent. This
is a well-known character of the Anthropomorpha, although the
gorilla approaches man much more nearly in this respect, having
feet better adapted for terrestrial progression and capable of being
203
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
set almost flat on the ground. In the orang-utan the adaptation
to an arboreal existence is so far developed that its hands and feet
have become very like hooks, and without much muscular exertion
the creature can suspend itself by them to the branches. In fact,
the phalanges themselves are curved, and it keeps its fingers always
naturally bent. The palm of the hand and the sole of the foot
can never be stretched, nor can they be placed flat on the ground.
The Dyaks tell many a tale about women being carried off by
orang-utans. No doubt the thing in itself is possible, for an adult
male Mayas is certainly strong enough to carry off a woman.
But that this actually happens, and happens, moreover, from sexual
reasons, 1s an assertion which only deserves to be left as the subject
of a romance to some Dyak novelist of the future.
The best season for hunting orang-utans is when the fruit is
getting ripe,and it is then not difficult to find five or six, or even more,
on the same tree. During the time I was at Marop, the Mayas
were wandering all over the forest in search of food, and it was
therefore less easy to find them, still less to find several together.
Yet Isaw as many as eight in one day, and four together on the
same tree.
The Mayas Tjaping is less common than the Mayas Kassa;
but the Dyaks affirm that many of the former are seen about the
villages when the durians are ripe.
I have never seen orang-utans throw branches of trees at the
hunter who is after them, but in passing from one tree to another
they may easily detach dead branches by their weight, or when
wounded in their nests may shake down branches already detached.
Wallace, however (Op. cit. i. p. 87), tells us that on one occasion
he was obliged to get away from under a durian tree on account
of the shower of branches and spiny fruits which a female orang-
utan with several small ones endeavoured to throw at him. No
naturalist traveller merits more implicit faith than does Wallace,
and certainly I am not the one to throw any doubt on his state-
ment. Nor does the case appear to me improbable ; for it is in accord-
ance with the nature of many apes and monkeys to become much
excited when disturbed with fruit or other food in their possession.
and in the instance related by Wallace, the orang, seeing a man
approach the tree, evidently thought that he was going to drive
her away, and prevent her from eating the durians, a fruit to which
they are extremely partial.
Again, I have never noticed that orangs seek cover behind the
branches when a hunter takes aim at them with his gun. On the
contrary, I have always seen them lean forward and even get clear
of branches to see better when a man approaches, prompted, no
doubt, by a sentiment of curiosity to get a better view of a being
whom they certainly must perceive bears a considerable resem-
204
x1V] THE SUMATRAN ORANG
blance to themselves. It is not easy to imagine what ideas the
orang-utans may form of us. I will not, however, deny that in
some instances they may havea notion of the effects of a gun, and
associate the possibility of being struck by a missile with the presence
of man. The experience of these creatures in such a matter may
vary in different parts of the country and be strictly individual,
as their degree of intelligence may also vary individually. And
truly the orang-utans, who are so generally variable, also present.
independent of age or sex, a remarkable variation in their cranial
capacity ; whence it may be argued that their intellectual develop-
ment cannot be uniform. Thus Professor Gigloli, in his studies
on the orang-utan crania which I collected (Of. cit. pp. 138-9),
calls attention to the small cerebral capacity of the female Mayas
which I shot on April 30, 1867 (that from which I took the
foetus which was preserved). This female may be considered as
microcephalous, its cranial capacity not reaching 304 cubic centim. ;
whilst that of the young male which I killed at the same time, and
which I took to be her offspring, gave a cerebral capacity of 457
cubic centim., 1.e. more than the maximum (456 cubic centim.)
found by Professor Gigloli in the adult Mayas Kassa. Another
male Mayas Kassa of the same age as the one just mentioned,
or showing, at all events, the same stage of dental development,
had a cranial capacity of 346 cubic centim.
The maximum cerebral capacity found in my series of orang-
utan skulls was that of a perfectly adult Mayas Tjaping, which
measured 503 cubic centim.
-The orang-utan inhabits not only Borneo, but Sumatra, where
both the race with cheek expansions and that without them are
also found. In Sumatra, however, these animals are certainly much
_ less abundant. During a stay of several months I made there in
the province of Padang, in the vear 1878, I never even heard them
mentioned. It has been met with in the province of Tapannuli
at Rambum, and at Siboga on the west coast, near the equator.
In the Zoological Museum at Florence is the skeleton of a young
orang-utan, described as coming from Palembang, on the east coast
of Sumatra. It is remarkable on account of the extraordinary
curvature of the second phalanges of the toes, and for the length of
the first, which is much greater than that I have seen in any of the
skeletons of specimens from Borneo of a corresponding age. I do
not, however, see any reason for separating specifically the Suma-
tran from the Bornean orang-utan.
The presence of this anthropoid in both islands is certainly one
of the best arguments towards proving a past land connexion
1 Mr. N. Ridley thinks it possible that the orang exists in the Malay
Peninsula, where the natives appear to know it by the name of “ Mowas,”
.which may, perhaps, be the same as “‘ Mayas’ (Cf. Natural Science, vi. p. 23).
205
IN BORN DANSE ORE Sars [ CHAP.
between them, the orang being a land animal, and devoid of
the means of crossing the wide expanse of sea which now divides
Sumatra and Borneo.
Of the orang-utan foetus obtained by me at Marop, and already
alluded to, Professor Trinchese, who has published an accurate
description of it,t writes :—‘‘Its aspect greatly surprises every-
one who sees it on account of its extraordinary resemblance to a
human foetus ; a likeness rendered still greater by the nakedness
Fig. 40.—F@TUS OF ORANG.
2
of the skin, which a fine down or lanugo is insufficient to conceal.”
This foetus is a female, and its development corresponds to a human
feetus between the fifth and sixth month of uterine existence.
The forehead is not receding, and the shape of the head has been
described as like that of an Eskimo. The neck is short, and the
nose does not project. The toes are very long, a character quite
1 Annali del Museo Civico di Genova,” vol. i. p. 9. ; tav. is, il, ili.
3 SLOG: CUtis, JD Fo
206
xiv| BORNEO AND THE PRECURSORS OF MAN
sufficient by itself to distinguish it from a human feetus. The arms,
hands, thighs, and legs are similar to those of man. Even the foot
is formed on the type of the human one up to the base of the toes,
but thence differs in the great length of the latter and in the position
and proportions of the hallux, which is also devoid of a nail.*
From the above Professor Trinchese draws the conclusion that
the orang-utan is the more similar to man the younger it is, because
the foetus of the former has a greater resemblance to man than that
which exists between the latter and an adult orang.
As Borneo is one of the few places on the globe where anthropoid
apes are found, the query naturally arises whether in the past
beings may not have existed on this great island more resembling
man than the present orang-utans. In other words whether
Borneo may not have been the place, or one of the places, where
the precursors of man had their origin.
In the absence of any positive evidence on this point, my ex-
perience with the orang-utans and my knowledge of the country
in which they live is, perhaps, insufficient for me to offer a mere
negative or affirmative opinion on this question. I may, how-
ever, here express as succinctly as possible some of my views on
evolution, and on the causes which may have given origin to the
varied and innumerable forms of:animal life. To these ideas some
allusion has already been made in the foregoing pages; but I shall
now ask my reader’s leave to dilate upon them somewhat more
fully, and to devote the remainder of this chapter to a scientific
subject which, I trust, may not be found out of place in this book.
To begin with, I must declare myself an adherent of the theory
that the environment, in the widest sense of the word, has been the
most powerful and principal agent in causing animals, as well as
plants, to assume their present form and structure. That the
organized beings now living have been originated through the action
exerted on them by the external world, isan old theory which was
propounded by a few elect naturalists, who had not much faith
in the creation of living beings simply by the action of a super-
natural will.
With the appearance of Darwin’s memorable book on the Origin
of Species, the above-mentioned theory retired to the background,
and became, one may say, almost forgotten, so obscured was it
by the fascinating theory of natural and sexual selection.
At the present time, however, a tendency to return to the older
theory is gaining ground, owing to the grave doubts which have
t On this point I may quote the following from Hovelacque et Hervé,
Précis d Anthropologie, p. 177 :—‘‘ Wyman a reconnu que sur l’embryon
humain long d’un pouce environ, le gros orteil, au lieu d’étre paralléle aux
doigts, forme un angle avec le cété du pied, correspondant ainsi par la posi-
tion avec l’état permanent de l’orteil chez les Quadrumanes.”’
207
IN BORNEAN FORESTS - [cCHAP.
arisen on all sides as to the theory that natural selection is the sole
means capable of explaining the raison d’étre of the specific characters
of living organisms.
According to the theory of the plasmation of living beings
through the action exerted on them by the environment, every
species would be the product of the physical forces and stimuli
to which its remote ancestors had been subjected. For this reason
every animal and every plant ought to bear in its own structure
the traces of its first origin. Even in familiar talk it is generally
Fig. 41.—F@TUS OF ORANG, SIDE VIEW.
admitted that each climate has left its mark on the organisms
living within its influence.
The varied forms assumed by those groups of individuals called
by naturalists species, would be merely the result of a plasmative
force exerted by surrounding conditions on primitive beings ;
and from a certain point of view it might be said that species
represent the impression of which the stimuli, in general, have been
the stamp or matrix.
Thus a careful and minute investigation of the structure of any
given species ought to lead to the knowledge of the circumstances
208
xIv] ADAPTATION TO ENVIRONMENT
under the influence of which it has been formed, and reveal the
climatic surroundings in which it was plasmated, and consequently
the region where it made its first appearance.
A very grave objection, however, apparently arises to oppose the
adoption of so fascinating an hypothesis.
Notwithstanding investigations and experiments of all kinds
it has been found that species at the present moment are little,
if at all, modified by the effects of their surroundings. The stimuli
have now but very slight power in the modification of individuals,
and adaptation to exceptional or abnormal conditions of existence
is not met with in that degree which would be required by my
hypothesis. Indeed, we may go still further and assert that living
beings vary very slightly or not at all at the present time, and that
they perish sooner than adapt themselves to new conditions of life.
A sufficient case to the point is that of all tropical. plants which are
cultivated in hothouses, which would infallibly perish if exposed,
even for a single day, to our outside air during winter.
The Darwinian theory of evolution has caused the belief for the
time being that accidental variability (sport) exerted an all-important
and preponderating influence on the formation of new species,
and it has been thought that innate variability, helped by natural
and sexual selection, has been sufficient to produce the entire series
of organised forms which now exist or have existed. The Darwinian
theory does not, however, explain the reason of such an innate
tendency towards variation in organisms.
Another argument strongly against the hypothesis that organisms
may have been modified by stimuli is found in the absolutely
negative results obtained by experiments.
Rabbits have been kept and made to breed entirely in the dark
for many generations, and not the slightest trace of impaired
or modified vision has been detected in the later offspring. In the
same way mice have had their tails amputated, and rabbits their
ears clipped short from generation to generation, but never a mouse
has been born tailless, or a rabbit without ears.
There are certain well-known mutilations and deformations
which have been practised on man himself for thousands of years,
and yet no indication of modification of the parts thus treated has
been observed.
Moreover, if at the present time isolated individuals assume
some peculiar character or modify some organ, whether by use, or
as the result of the conditions in which they lived or were experi-
mentally subjected to, the acquired peculiarity or the modified
organ is not transmitted to their offspring. Thus the most essential
basis is wanting for the support of the theory of the response of
the organism to the sensations received, which ought to constitute
the basis of the theory of plasmation according to the environment.
209 P
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
If, however, new forms of adaptation are not produced under
our own eyes, 1t must be admitted that, from time to time, accidental
varieties, or deviations from the common type, appear in Nature,
for we every day see horticulturists obtain new varieties of flowers
and fruit, and breeders and fanciers new kinds of cattle, dogs,
poultry, and pigeons.
But careful experiments have shown that the supposed variabi-
lity of species at the present time is more apparent than real. In
trying to demonstrate the variability of species by exhibiting the
various forms that a given species assumes in Nature, we only prove
that it has varied, and thus confound polymorphism with variability.
Experiments and cultivation do not thus confirm the existence
in living beings of that extensive variability which many naturalists
pretend to believe ; and in any case, such variability is not now of
an adaptive kind. Therefore, contrary to the present prevailing
tendency to attribute a powerful action to variability during the
existing period, and to consider every species as inconstant, I hold
the opposite opinion, namely, that at the present time species do
not vary in Nature, returning thus to the old idea of the nearly
absolute fixity of existing species.?
The indisputable fact, however, remains that through cultivation
and artificial selection in breeding new forms can be obtained.
The circumstances, however, which at the present time are
associated with the production of domestic varieties of animals and
plants, are of a very different nature from those which must have
brought about variation through adaptation. Thus, for example,
if a new variety of Primula sinensis makes its appearance with a
corolla frilled, jagged, or more divided than in the wild form, this
isnot because such new characters correspond to any special want or
necessity of the plant, or because it is advantageous for it to assume
them. In the forms produced or obtained by breeders, or by
horticulturists, the first indication which has led to the formation
of the new variety or race has in every case cropped out accidentally.
without any ascertained cause or reason, and quite independently
of any act or wish of the producer. The latter has merely taken
advantage of a first tendency or plan of variation which has
naturally manifested itself, and, by preserving and causing the
individuals who have shown such a tendency to interbreed, has
succeeded in increasing and exaggerating the sport. But who can
‘I base this assertion especially on the well-known experiments of
Naegeli on Hievacium.
2 I should not consider as an adaptation of recent formation the case of
some plants which undergo certain changes if grown in new conditions,
as, for instance, that seen in alpine species planted in lowlands. This is
merely a latitude in already acquired characters, constant in any given
species.
210
xIv| VARTABILITY OF SPECIES
produce this form of intentional selection in Nature? And who
has given the first impulse to the “accidental”? production of a
new variation? I do not deny that even at the present time some
form of adaptation can be artificially obtained. Thus horses better
adapted to draw than to run, and vice versa, have been produced ;
but even in these cases man has merely taken advantage of an
innate tendency in the horse, and has selected for interbreeding
those animals which, quite independent of any action on his part,
were born with one or with the other predisposition.
The means employed by man to obtain varieties consist princi-
pally in endeavours to diminish the power and energy of conserva-
tive heredity, which obliges descendants to reproduce forms
identical with their progenitors. Such means are hybridizing and
interbreeding with different species or varieties ; and, above all, a
continued interbreeding of blood relations, descendants from the
same stock (the principal cause, perhaps, of duplication). Finally,
added to this is intentional artificial selection by man—a factor
which plays no part in Nature.!
The new forms thus obtained by cultivation in no case satisfy
a want newly developed in a plant or animal; they reveal instead
merely a tendency towards independence so far as regards the
established laws of heredity ; and, indeed, many are probably merely
forms which have assumed some of the so-called ancestral or atavic
characters, i.e. those which formerly existed in progenitors of the
species and now reappear.”
I do not, however, entirely exclude the possibility that at the
present time some traces of true adaptation may yet be obtained,
But what I wish to show is that in all cases the actual power of
adaptation in organisms 1s at the present day well nigh non-existent
as compared with what they must have possessed in the past. It is
sufficient to give one case in point—that of the mangroves, trees
which live with their roots constantly submerged in salt water.
Would it be possible now to cause any of the innumerable trees
which grow in these tropical forests away from the sea to live and
flourish in salt water? From time immemorial fruits of all sorts
of species have been carried by the rivers to the sea and deposited
at their mouths in favourable conditions for germination, yet,
1 In many garden vegetables in which the hypertrophy of certain parts
is the chief feature, as in cabbages, carrots, radishes, etc., it may be suspected
that cultivation in a soil rich in nitrogenous compounds has produced the
development of micro-organisms, which through some special form of symbiosis
may be the cause of such hypertrophy.
2 As an example I may say that I have obtained specimens of
Cyclamen persicum with .perfectly straight peduncles and erect flowers,
with a corolla with open and horizontal petals, just as in a normal primula,
and as beyond doubt was the case in the progenitor of the cyclamen.
2k
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
notwithstanding this, no new estuarine plant has been formed in
our times; thus fully proving the reluctance in existing organisms
to abandon the prerogatives with which the past with cumulative
effect has endowed them.
Not admitting that at the present day species can vary, or that
organisms are capable of an appreciable degree of adaptability to
surrounding conditions, and at the same time holding natural and
sexual selection as insufficient to explain all the phenomena of
evolution, the question arises in what way has evolution taken
place ?
The answer appears to me easy and obvious. What does not
happen now can nevertheless have happened in the past.
I take it to be a great philosophical error to persist in considering
past biological and telluric phenomena as having been produced by
forces identical in nature and intensity with those in action at the
present day, just as I believe it a mistake to draw too close a parallel
between what happened in earlier geological periods with what
daily takes place under our own eyes. It would be almost tanta-
mount to arguing that a baby is in every way identical with an
old man !
As far as life is concerned, one of the chief differences between
the present and the past in my opinion exists in the intensity with
which the force known as “‘ conservative heredity ”’ manifests itself,
obliging modern organisms to transmit unaltered to their descend-
ants the shape, colours, peculiarities, in short, the entire characters
which were transmitted to them by their ancestors. This is the.
reason why now living beings are, so to speak, fixed and immutable,
and cannot assume absolutely new forms. For the very same
reason external agents with their stimuli cannot succeed in producing
important modifications in the stimulated organs during the lifetime
of individuals, and much less can modifications casually obtained
in the organism during life be transmitted to its progeny. If, as
an instance, we take a monkey which has been trained to stand
erect on its legs, and which has also acquired the requisite muscular
development for such a gait, it can never transmit to its offspring
either the acquired faculty of standing erect, or the muscular
development thus obtained. Thus heredity is the obstacle which
prevents variation in species now living, or permits it in so small
a degree, that even the accumulation of small variations during
myriads of years could never have rendered possible the evolution
of the organic world, if it has to be thus accounted for.
If, however, one considers that the action ef conservative here-
dity cannot have been always the same, that, necessarily feeble in
1 The first mention of this hypothesis of mine was briefly made in a paper
I published in the Buillettino della R. Societa Toscana d’Orticultuva, Anno
xiv. (1889), bearing the title ‘‘ Fiorviturva dell’ Amorphophallus titanum.”
2,
xiv] TWlshe, IPOWWIR Ole Talal eID IMD Ne
the primordial epoch of life (when, as we may say, the organic world
was young), it must have grown with time, accumulating and in-
creasing in successive generations, it will be possible to reconcile
the theory of the “‘ permanent impressionability’”’ of organisms
(i.e. to the stimuli exerted on them by external conditions) with
belief in the all but complete immutability of species now living.
That at the present time the power of heredity is such as to put
great obstacles in the way of variation is a fact which cannot be
denied; that in the past it had not always the same force cannot
be directly proven, but can easily be credited ; and that the further
we go back towards the origin of life the less strong it must have
been, is only a logical sequitur of the admitted strength of the force
heredity now exerts.
Thus during the infancy of the organic world, there being then
no power to counteract the conservation of new characters acquired
by organisms, the latter must have been not only susceptible of
considerable morphological malleability during their lifetime, but
must have also been capable of transmitting to their descendants
any new characters of an advantageous kind they had acquired.
The period of a human lifetime reproduces on a small scale what
must have happened in gigantic proportions during the evolution of
living beings. No one can deny that infancy has peculiarities which
are not possessed by old age. And it is equally true that during the
first period of life the force of habit is less powerful than in adult age.
In early youth animals can be domesticated or tamed, children learn
with facility, and even their limbs are pliable and capable of modi-
fication. With age heredity acts more strongly, instincts prevail,
and adaptation to new conditions of existence and to new ideas
become more difficult ; in a word,it is much less easy to combat
hereditary tendencies.
What can have happened. at an epoch when heredity did not
exist ishard to infer with precision. In the absence of this factorin
the evolution of living beings, almost any change or variation in the
latter must have been possible. There is even no necessity to sup-
pose that in the remotest past the offspring need have been neces-
sarily similar to its progenitors. Every new generation of organ-
isms might differ from that which preceded it, so that “ species,”
in the sense in which the word is now used, may have been then a
term without meaning.
In that epoch, geologically of the remotest antiquity, light, heat,
drought, abundant rains, winds, the nature of the soil, colours, the
stimuli of insects, ef samilia,may all have contributed to promote
modification in the organisms placed under their influence. This
would have been the Plasmative Epoch—the epoch of the auto-
creation of species.
Thus I attribute to such causes not only the special structures
2S
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
of aquatic, land, desert,and forest plants, but also the infinite number
of modifications in floral organs which carry the impression of
stimuli exerted by insects. To the action of environment I attribute
also the cases of mimicry ; and I have extended my theory even
further, holding that moral impressions, and especially individual
volition, have exercised a great influence in the evolution of organ-
isms."
It is only by admitting a pre-established plan that the existence
of certain forms and certain colours in some animals can be accounted
for. And this pre-established plan in the case of certain creatures
may have had its origin in the desire to attain a given end ; a desire
often caused by want or necessity, but at times by a love for the
beautiful, by pleasure, vanity, fear, or any of the many passions
and desires which agitate organized beings. For the genesis of
species to have taken place in accordance with the above theory, it
is necessary to assume that organisms possessed an inclination to
vary, or to allow themselves to be influenced by stimuli, one might
say almost without direct need, and in a manner precisely contrary
to that which occurs at the present time when individuals and
species do not vary, or, rather, cannot adapt themselves to new
conditions of existence, even when the need exists.
It is, nevertheless, not impossible that in some instances certain
forms may have made their appearance suddenly, and may quite as
suddenly have adapted themselves to a new condition of the environ-
ment. This is the hypothesis of ‘* Neogenesis,” as it has been called
by Professor Mantegazza, in favour of which there are fewer facts .
than for any other hypothesis of the kind. And yet it is the one
which has the most attractions for me. If we accept this hypo-
thesis it becomes quite unnecessary to admit a continuous deriva-
tion of organisms one from the other by slow modifications ; because
the connecting links which yet exist, or are revealed by paleontology,
would be the result of hybridism between two prototypes of sudden
formation, whose reproduction was not impeded because it had no
force of heredity to contend with.
The essence of my hypothesis consists in the argument that the
power of heredity is so great at the present period as to render varia-
tion in living organisms very feeble, if not impossible ; that conse-
quently adaptation to surrounding conditions is now all but nil; and
that for this reason any modifications which may affect the individual
during life are not transmitted to its progeny. On the other hand,
in far distant geological times, adaptability to surroundings and
sensitiveness in reaction to stimuli must have been greater the
further back the epoch during which such influences were active.
1 Cf. BeccarRI. ‘‘ Le Capanne ed ¢ Giardini dell’Amblyornis inornata”’;
in Annali del Museo Civico di Genova, vol. ix. p. 382 (1877).
214
xIv | SABIE OR SPECIES
For heredity has gone on increasing with the succession of geological
epochs, whilst on the other hand the force of plasmation has gradu-
ally grown weaker, and ceased entirely at the present day.
Even those who decline to attribute importance to the force of
heredity because it cannot be experimentally demonstrated, or, as
some express it, because it is merely evoked to interpret phenomena
otherwise unexplainable, are compelled to admit that between the
reproductive phenomena of organisms in the primordial epoch of
the formation of species and those of to-day a difference must exist.
Itis not within the bounds of credibility that all the reproductive
phenomena can have become manifest in the very same mode in the
primordial generations as after the lapse of thousands and thousands
of generations. In other words, it seems to mea bold thing to assert
that no change can have taken place in the effects of fecundation
since the first times when the parts forming the nuclei of organisms
of opposite sex met, united, and subsequently parted, to give origin
to the embryo of a new creature, and now, when the process of
fecundation and development has been reproduced for an indefinite
period and through an incalculable number of generations. It
appears to me that the stability obtained in the phenomena of re-
production, the primary cause of the stability of species, is a conse-
quence of the number of times these phenomena have repeated
themselves ; and also that the stability of the morphological char-
acters of individuals must be proportional in any given species to
the number of the generations of each, and to the length of time
since their specific entity was defined. It cannot be doubted that
in the nucleus of the reproductive cell are comprised all the here-
ditary and physical characteristics of the organisms to which that
cell belonged. Now, as it is inferred that every part and every organ
of any given living creature must have contributed to the formation
of its reproductive cells, into which infinitely minute particles repre-
senting each part and each organ must have been carried, it is pre-
sumable that in the far remote epochs of specific plasmation, when
organisms were assuming the shapes they have since retained, that the
transference into the cell nuclei of the infinitely minute particles of
protoplasm or micelle representing the various organs and parts of
the living being was partial and incomplete, so that, all the parts
of the parental organism not being fully represented, extensive
variation became possible ; but as generations succeeded to genera-
tions the transference of the protoplasmic micelle representing the
various parts of the parent into the tissue of the reproductive nuclei
became more general and complete, and the tendency to variation
naturally diminished gradually. At the present time, after an
infinite number of generations, the aforesaid transmission must have
become so complete that the field is closed to variation, and living
organisms are obliged to reproduce themselves with constant and
215
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
well established characters. It is on this hypothesis that, accord-
ing to my views, the theory of heredity ought to rest.
Moreover, the continuous and repeated segmentation of the
nuclei, and the equal division of their chromatine in the daughter
cells, has been the cause, most undoubtedly, of the uniform distribu-
tion of the characters of the entire organism in the cells imbued with
reproductive power, whether sexual or gemmoidal ; consequently,
the oftener the segmentation has been repeated, the more perfect
will be the reproduction of the organism with constant characters.
And this consideration also points to an acceptation of the theory
that hereditary force must have gone on increasing with time, in due
proportion to the number of generations which a given individual
can reckon in its genealogical tree.
As far as plants are concerned, it is not alone in the reproductive
cells that the elementary constituents of the entire individual are
centred, but also in numerous other cells disseminated in the more
vital portion of the plant, that is, in the cambium of every vascular
bundle. Each of these cells virtually represents an entire individual,
and probably more specially the organ of which it is a portion ; thus
to render possible the accumulation of the characteristics of the
entire organism in the reproductive cells it would suffice that there
should be a transference into these of the micelle of a limited
number of such cells. When presented under this aspect, the theory
of pangenesis appears much more simple.
And now let us return to Borneo, and, with facts and deduction
to guide us, endeavour to find out whether there is any probability
that ancestors of Man have existed on that island.
Admitting species to be dependent on climate, can Man have
been evolved in Borneo? Can the orang-utan be an archaic form
of mankind ? i
The opinion that the races of Man are climatic productions is
a very old one; and that this may originally have been true
can hardly be objected to by evolutionists who accept the theory of
adaptability to the environment. Only—on account of the inter-
mingling of living races, brought about by various causes—such a
belief is now no longer altogether borne out by facts.
But even admitting for the moment that the indications furnished
by climate are not sufficient to give us the clue to Man’s origin, there
are other means of discovering the place of his first appearance.
Giving due consideration to the laws which rule the geographical
distribution of animals on the surface of the earth, it is difficult not
to believe that Man had his origin in the same regions as those in
which we find the anthropoid apes. Indeed, according to the Dar-
winian theory of descent, not only the species, but also the genera
of a given group of living beings must be the direct offspring of a
common ancestor; and thus, even when the descendants of the
216
/
a
xIv | MAN’S PRECURSORS
latter are scattered over distant and widely separated regions,
their progenitors must originally have occupied the same area.
This is the reason why both geologists and anthropologists have
always considered it possible that at some past epoch Borneo was
the habitat of an anthropomorph more nearly allied to Man than to
the living orang-utan. This idea was mentioned to me by Sir
Charles Lyell, when I was in London in 1865, preparing for my
expedition to Borneo. The great geologist then urged me to explore
the caves in that island, being of opinion that important materials
and remains of very great value for the past history of Man might
be found in them. He argued that as in Australia, where
marsupials predominate, all the fossil mammals yet found belong to
that group, so in Borneo, where the orang-utan now lives, one
would probably discover the remains of some extinct species
belonging to the same order. The exploration of the caves in
Borneo has, however, not as yet given the expected results.’
In any case, even admitting freely the possibility that anthro-
pomorphs distinct from the orang-utan (and I must add, also, from
the gibbons) once lived in Borneo, the question remains whether
they could have been the true precursors of Man. To this I answer
in the negative. While on the one hand there is nothing to dis-
prove the idea that man may have existed in Borneo from times
of the remotest antiquity, there is on the other hand nothing to
suggest the probability that the island has been a fons et origo of
species of the genus Homo, though we find there all the requisites
for the plasmation of the genus Simua.
The theory of adaptability to the environment requires a cor-
relation between the characters acquired by organisms and the
stimuli or exciting causes, therefore certain given conditions of
existence must have produced corresponding modifications in the
living beings which have been under their influence. Now, the
more marked differential characters which exist between the mor-
phology of Man and that of the orang-utan are evidently due to
different conditions of existence; for the first is modified for a
terrestrial, the second for an arboreal life. This divergence in
adaptation is the principal, if not the only cause of the generic
characters in which Homo differs from Szmza.
To explain why certain creatures have adopted an erect posture
and bipedal progression we must assume, @ priori, that they
happened to live where such posture and such manner of
1 Recently in Java the fossil remains of an anthropomorph of the highest
scientific interest have been discovered, and the name of Prthecanthropus
evectus has been given by the discoverer, Dr. Eugéne Dubois, to this extinct
creature. But the remains as yet found are too few and imperfect to be of
much aid to definite conclusions on the history of the primitive evolution
of Man.
Dilly]
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [CHAP.
locomotion was both possible and advantageous. In primitive
anthropomorphs, if the necessity of escaping from a foe was
experienced in a country covered with forest, the way of escape
was manifestly by climbing up trees. If, instead, the ground
was bare, safety was sought by flight, and the main efforts must
have been directed to getting over the ground by the use of the
hind limbs. In these efforts to progress bipedally, the muscles
which are attached to the pelvis were certainly those most put in
action, and this would account for their greater development, with
the result of still further facilitating the erect posture.
As the assumption of an erect posture has more especially differ-
entiated Man from monkeys, it is but natural that the conformation
of the pelvis, and the development of the muscles which are attached
to it, should constitute one of the principal morphological distinc-
tions between Man and anthropomorphs, because a basin-shaped
pelvis and largely developed gluteal muscles are a consequence of
the erect posture.
Another most important result derived from the assumption of
an erect posture is, I hold, the great development which the brain
has been able to acquire from the favourable position which the
cranium has thus attained. The brain coming to be in the vertical
line, and not outside the centre of gravity, there is nothing to
hinder a large increase in the volume and weight of this organ.
Again, the hand being no longer used as a foot (if Man is supposed
to be descended from a terrestrial rather than from an arboreal form)
has been able to perfect itself in another direction, and to become
the executive organ of the brain, placing Man, thus specially en-
dowed, in a position far superior to that of all other animals.t
It is obvious that for the erect posture a primitive anthropomorph
must have needed a broad foot. Now such a structure and
the peculiarities above mentioned can only have been assumed
in a country where pedestrian locomotion was easy. For this reason
it appears to me very improbable that primitive Man can have
originated in the eminently forestal region to which Borneo belongs,
a region which could not only never have promoted any aptitude
for running or bipedal progression, but also could never have made
him feel the need of a terrestrial {as opposed to an arboreal) exist-
ence. I therefore believe that neither in Borneo nor in the neigh-
1 The character which principally distinguishes the human hand from
that of anthropoids is the perfect opponability of the thumb to the index. Very
singular in this respect is the coincidence of such a conformation, so far as
regards its mechanical effects, with the action of the maxilla and mandible
of a granivorous bird, in which the bill has undoubtedly attained such a
conformation by use, ‘and by the necessity of collecting seeds and grains
of plants. Why should not the stimulus caused by the necessity of collecting
seeds, small tubers, molluscs, and other small food objects, have caused
in man the opponability of the two first digits of the hand ?
218
xiv] HUMANIZATION. OF THE ANTHROPOIDS
bouring forest regions could any anthropoid have attained that
kind of perfection which would eventually transform it into Man.
Indeed, I opine that if anthropoids different from the existing
ones have lived in a past and remote epoch in Borneo, they must
have got there from regions less covered by trees ; and I hold that
instead of modifying themselves towards the assumption of an
erect gait, they would have deviated towards adaptation to an
arboreal existence, unless, indeed, both Borneo and Sumatra once
possessed a drier climate and a lesser extent of forest than they do
now, as is the case with some African regions—a supposition hardly
admissible when we consider the fossils found in the carboniferous
formations of both these great islands, which would indicate ancient
conditions of vegetation very similar to those of the present day.
According to the ideas I uphold, the passage from a quadrupedal
locomotion to a bipedal one is anterior to that which may be
styled quadrumanous. The orang-utan in its peculiar structural
development has, in a certain sense, surpassed that of Man, being the
product of a land in which terrestrial is less advantageous than
arboreal locomotion. Thus, if during the period of organic ©
malleability anthropoids who could freely use their hind
limbs for progression reached Borneo, where terrestrial locomotion
was more difficult than an arboreal one, they would practise
the latter more than the former, and their limbs would eventually
show a corresponding modification. Thus the orang-utans in
Borneo would have diverged from the old anthropoid type instead
of approximating to it, and in this case the orang would be, not
a progenitor, but a collateral of Man.
To render probable the theory that Man has been derived from
an arboreal anthropoid of the type of the orang-utan, it would be
necessary to suppose that the feet of the latter, originally adapted
to terrestrial progression and converted later into prehensile organs,
should once more revert to their primitive terrestrial form. For
this reason I have come to the conclusion that neither Borneo nor
any portion of the Indo-Malayan forest region can ever have been
suitable localities for the ‘““humanization,” if I may so term it, of
an anthropoid. After this conclusion the reader will naturally
ask: “‘ Where, then, do you believe that Man made his first appear-
ance?” If such a query may be met with an hypothesis, the
following is my opinion, based in a large measure on the above-
mentioned considerations :—It is certain that Man, who - before
becoming such must once have belonged to the group of the anthro-
poids, can only have had his origin in the centre of morphological
development of that group. Man must, therefore, have made his
first appearance within the tropics, and very probably in a region
intermediate between the parts now inhabited by the gorilla, chim-
panzee, and orang-utan.
‘
219
IN, BORNEAN FE@RE SINS ers [ CHAP.
The discovery in Java of the fossil remains of an anthropoid
nearer to Man than any of those now living might suggest that
island as one of the localities where anthropoids have become
humanized; but I hold many deductions concerning the fauna
and flora of a country in past geological epochs which are based on
the fossil remains found in its strata to be completely erroneous
because the locality where the fossil remains of a plant or of an
animal are found is, in most cases, not that in which one or the other
formerly lived, but merely the place where their remains were
eventually deposited, which may often be far distant from the
locality whence they originally came. Thus, that fossil remains of
Pithecanthropus were found in Java certainly does not prove, accord-
ing to my views, that that creature lived on the island; but
merely shows that its remains were deposited where Java now is,
when that island, during the volcanic disturbances it has experi-
enced, emerged from the sea with its high mountains, and doubt-
less caused other lands in the adjacent seas to be submerged. My
objection to admitting that Java and Borneo may have been centres
of humanization rests principally on the difficulties above men-
tioned, that an exclusively forestal region must necessarily have
been ill-suited to an anthropoid’s assuming a bipedal means of pro-
gression. Considering that tropical Africa produced those big
anthropoids which in the structure of their limbs and better adap-
tation to terrestrial locomotion approach nearest to the human
type, considering again that on that continent were evolved the
greater number of mammals provided with rapid means of terres-
trial locomotion, I am of opinion that tropical Africa—or, rather,
perhaps, a land of similar climatic conditions interposed between
the African and the Asiatic continents, a land whose existence
can alone explain facts otherwise unexplainable in the geogra-
phical distribution of plants and animals—must have been the
region where Man assumed his erect gait and bipedal progression.
Even the colour of the skin may furnish arguments in favour of
the hypothesis that Africa, or an ancient dependency of that con-
tinent, may have been the region where anthropomorphs were
transformed into man-like creatures ; for Africa is the land where
mammals with black skins poorly provided with hair are most
frequent, and it may be surmised that the first men were black,
because they evolved from anthropomorphs of that colour. The
black colour of African Man and his predecessors may be sup-
posed to have been produced during the epoch of morphological
malleability by the combined action of the light and heat in the
climate of tropical Africa, although at the present time climate
hardly has any effect towards changing the colour of the complexion.
Again, it may be conjectured that the white complexion may have
been acquired by Man in a period when the environment still exerted
220
xiv | COLOUR -OF SKIN IN MAN
a certain amount of plasmative force when, wandering northwards
towards colder regions, he learnt to seek refuge in caves. The
diminution of light may have caused a diminution in the cutaneous
pigments ; and the lower temperature causing the blood to accu-
mulate towards the periphery to compensate for the loss of heat on
the surface of the body may have communicated the rosy tint to
the skin. This colour is very rare in mammals, and combined with
the scarcity of hair is only found, as far as I am aware, in a small
and most remarkable hypogeal rodent of the deserts of Somaliland,
Heterocephalus glaber of Rippell, and accidentally in the ** white ”’
elephants and in certain races of swinein which the black colour of
the skin has disappeared, it seems, through breeding in covered
styes in a cold climate, and thus under circumstances analogous
to those in which the white skin may be conjectured to have appeared
in Man.
LS)
iS)
mo
CHAPTER XV
THE MALAY SAMPAN—EXCURSION TO TANJONG DatTU—PUuLO SAMPADIEN
—THE DuGonc—A PIRATE’s NEsT—ASCENT OF TANJONG DaATU—
Lost IN THE FOREST—Dyak DoGs—THE Domestic Cat OF BORNEO
—THE WESTERNMOST EXTREMITY OF BORNEO—MARINE ALG#—THE
RETURN JOURNEY—AN ENCHANTED Hitt—AN UNEXPECTED NOc-
TURNAL VISIT—DANGEROUS Foop—At LuNpu—My First ATTACK
OF MALARIA—RIVERS BETWEEN THE LUNDU AND THE SARAWAK.
N my return from the Batang Lupar I was obliged to stay
() some time at Kuching, in order to arrange the considerable
zoological and botanical collections which I had made during my
exploration of that part of Borneo, and to pack them in readiness
to be forwarded to Europe. My sampan, too, stood in consider-
able need of repair before I could look upon it as in fit condition
for the new excursions which I proposed making.
The sampan is the boat generally used in Sarawak for river
navigation, and also for short trips along the sea coast during fine
weather. It has, I believe, a considerable resemblance to the canoes
used on the great rivers of Cochinchina and Burma. That it has
not had its origin in Borneo is evident from its name, which is
Chinese. Sampans are dug-outs, made from the trunk ofa single tree.
The method of construction is very ingenious, because from a tree
whose diameter is, let us say, a couple of feet, a boat may be made of
twice that width. Thisis done by hollowing out the trunk immediate-
ly the tree is felled to the size that its diameter permits, and regula-
ting the shape according to certain rules well known to the Malay
boat-builder, among which is the keeping of the sides of the craft
much higher in the middle than at either end. It is widened by
the application of fire, an easy operation with green, flexible wood,
which yields without splitting under the action of heat. It is
probably because this method of construction gives them a wide
beam that Bornean boats are unprovided with outriggers, which
are, in fact, not necessary. The one exception is in the north, where,
in the Sulu sea, boats have outriggers.
Other people in this part of the world, such as the Papuans and
Polynesians, also use dug-out canoes made from a single tree trunk ;
but, not being widened out by the application of fire, their boats are
222
cHaP. xv] EXCURSION TO TANJONG DATU
too narrow and too round in section, and are thus very crank, out-
riggers being an absolute necessity to prevent their being easily
upset.
‘i It is hardly likely that the above-mentioned method of making
sampans has been invented in Borneo. Like many other industries,
it has probably been imported from the Asiatic continent ; indeed,
I believe that the same method of widening by fire is used in the
manufacture of canoes in Burma and Siam.
The sides of sampans are raised by a high strake or washboard,
which is connected to the body of the boat with wooden pegs. The
seam is caulked with the soft bark of Melaleuca leucodendron, and a
resinous mixture made with an oil called *“ kruing”’ (the product
of Dipterocarpus Lowi, Hook.), to which is added resin reduced to
a fine powder. With these ingredients a sticky paste is formed,
which is used like pitch, and renders the seams perfectly watertight.
Sampans have generally a roofing of “ kadjan,” a sort of matting
made with palm or pandanus leaves, under which the men can
paddle sheltered from rain or from the sun’s rays. Amidships, too,
there is usually a kind of cabin, somewhat like that of a Venetian
gondola, where one can lie down and sleep in comfort. Sampans
are usually propelled by paddles (pengayu of the Malays), and
have no rudder, being steered by one of the crew with his paddle
when necessary, while at other times he paddles with the rest.
The Malayan paddle hasno peculharities, and is not ornamented
in any way, as are so often those of the Papuans and Polynesians.
It is used with the palm of one hand grasping the small transverse
portion at the end of the handle, while the tapering part of the latter
is gripped with the other hand.t
To my sampan I had added a sail, for during the monsoon then
prevailing I could even venture out to sea and coast ; a thing which
would have been very imprudent in such a craft in any other season.
Everything now being in readiness, I left Kuching at sunset on
the thirteenth of June with a crew of five men, bound for Tanjong
Datu.
We slept at Santubong, and sailed early next morning, favoured
by the land breeze. We were soon at Pulo Sampadien, a small
island about thirteen miles west of the mouth of the Sarawak river.
We landed to take in a supply of better water than that we had got
at a small stream near the village of Santubong. The island is about
two miles from the coast, and in the portion I explored is mostly
formed of limestone, regularly stratified, and in some places rising
many feet out of the water and overhanging it. The limestone is
of a dark colour, with conchoidal fracture ; it is more or less schis-
1 T have seen in Italy, on the Lake of Massaciuccoli, near Lucca, a paddle
exactly like the Malay one.
223
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
tose, and alternates with strata of sandstone containing pebbles of
various kinds and nodules of iron pyrites. In some places these
pebbles are small or broken up, and cemented into a kind of pudding-
stone. Large masses of granite of different kinds are scattered on
the beach.
In the sand along the shore I noticed many Foraminifera. Not
infrequently during high tide turtles land for the purpose of laying
their eggs ; but their favourite resort, as I have already mentioned,
is the neighbouring island of Satang, nearer to the mouth of the
Sarawak river, but farther off the mainland than Sampadien. In
the sea, on rocks, I found a few alge growing, the more common
being a species of Sargassum.
The Dugongs, or Duyon, as the Malays call them (Halicore aus-
tralis), frequent these shores, feeding, I was told, on sea plants,
perhaps a species of Thalassia. They appear, however, to be very
rare in Sarawak, for although I offered a reward of twenty dollars,
I was unable to get a specimen.
We passed the night near the mouth of the Lundu. Wishing to
take advantage of the inflowing tide, we set sail at 2 a.m. next morn-
ing, and, helped by a good breeze, soon reached Samatan. Here
we stopped to breakfast, and I shot a species of kingfisher (Sauro-
patis chloris, Bodd.) which Imet with for the first time.t. It was
hunting small crabs along the sandy shore, and each time it cap-
tured one it perched on some low tree to eat it in comfort.
We soon passed the Talang-Talang Islands, leaving them on
our right, and at 3 p.m. came to anchor in a small bay marked on
the Admiralty chart as “Sleepy Bay” or “ Pirate Bay” ; but the
native name is, I believe, Labuan Gadong. On the cliffs around grew
specimens of Cycas circinalis from twelve to eighteen feet high,
some with fruit, others with male flowers like fine cones rising in the
midst of the crown of leaves. Here, too, were branching pandani,
a Podocarpus, feathery casuarinas, nibong palms, and those ever-
present rampant climbers, the rotangs, and many other plants.
On the beach the Kayu pennaga (Pongamia glabra, Vent.) was pre-
dominant, a common tree on the sea-shore throughout Malaysia.
When in blossom it is covered with bunches of lilac flowers which are
sweetly fragrant. The place appeared to abound in game, and I saw
footprints of plandok, deer, and wild boar, but nothing of the animals
themselves.
On the sixteenth of June, after a few hours’ paddling, we
reached Tanjong Datu, distant about seven mules from our
last halting place. I shot a few terns, which were abundant here,
and found many of their eggs, which were deposited on the bare
1 Sauropatis chloris is a bird of wide distribution, occurring throughout
the Philippines, Celebes, the Moluccas, etc.—ED.
22
xv | EOSi EN HE BORE ST:
rock without any attempt at a nest. We came to anchor near
the westernmost extremity of Borneo, in a small cove, which
my Malays called Telok Saruban, or Serban.
Here we found a spring of excellent water, and used it at once to
cook our rice. After our very frugal breakfast, I started to climb the
small mountain which rose at our backs. Naturally, in such out-of-
the-way and uninhabited places, there were no paths. The place,
and, indeed, the whole coast as far as Santubong, had a bad name
for being the habitual resort, during the fair season, of the prahus of
the Lanuns and Balagnini, the boldest and most dreaded pirates of
the whole archipelago, and Telok Serban was their favourite
anchorage.
We commenced our ascent amidst great detached blocks of
granite scattered over the slopes of the mountain, which is entirely
covered by primeval forest from base to summit. We marked the
trees from time to time with parang cuts, and left other signs of our
passage on the way, in order to be able to find the path on our return.
Before long we were overtaken by a storm with violent rain and wind,
but we continued our climb in spite of it, and reached the summit,
which, according to the indications of my aneroid, I determined to
be at an elevation of I ,640 feet.
Scarcely a plant was in blossom. On the west slope, which is
Dutch territory—for the boundary line between Sarawak and the
Dutch possessions follows the ridge of the mountain—the trees were
scanty and dwarfish, and more or less deprived of leaves, I believe
on account of the strong south-west winds which for several months
in the year sweep this slope. On the eastern slope—that up which
we had come—the trees were thicker and more clothed. On the
summit I found nothing to reward me for the fatigue of the climb.
On descending we followed the marks we had left in coming up ;
but, at a certain spot, where the colossal masses of granite were
heaped up one on the other so as to form caves and grottoes, we
lost our direction in following the tortuous path between the masses.
We wandered about for nearly an hour and a half without being able
to get out of this strange labyrinth, or to find the path leading down
to the sea. I was beginning to fear that we should be obliged to
pass the night in the jungle, for it was near sunset, and after that com-
plete darkness follows fast, when the happy inspiration occurred to
us of retracing our steps up the mountain instead of continuing vainly
to search an outlet below. We managed thus to emerge from the
labyrinth of granite blocks, and then in another direction, and
following Kap, the small Dyak dog I always took with me on
excursions, we again directed our steps towards the sea. It was
interesting to see how this intelligent beast, constantly turning to
look back at us, appeared plainly to wish to show us the right way
to be followed. Had it been able to talk it could not have made
225 Q
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
itself better understood. Certainly, of all animals, the dog is the
one which ought to have had the greatest chance of learning how to
talk, on account of the instinctive sympathy which, like an electric
current, passes between it and Man when it wishes to explain its
thoughts or to understand ours. Had Man been associated with the
dog during the plasmative epoch, I believe that to the expression of
our face and to the sound of our voice there would have been aroused
in the dog, owing to the attention with which he listens to us and
observes us, analogous movements in its vocal organs, which, instead
of expressing themselves by inarticulate sounds, would have enabled
it to talk and to learn a language.
The dogs of the Dyaks are small, and have a fox-like aspect,
somewhat like that of our Italian ‘‘pomer.”’ Their hair is usually of
a reddish-dun; their ears are short, erect, and very mobile; the
tail, usually carried high and turned up, and kept in constant motion,
terminates in a large brush; the legs are rather short in proportion
to the rest of the body. Notthe least of their peculiarities is that
they have never learnt to bark. Highly intelligent, they readily
attach themselves to the person who takes care of them and treats
them kindly; and they are very plucky and useful in hunting deer
or pigs, for which they are especially kept and trained. In Dyak
villages they will not let a European approach.
Having spoken of the Dyak dog, it is natural to say something of
cats; and the domestic animal in Borneo deserves a word of men-
tion on account of the singular peculiarity of its tail, which is
generally very short, or else marked with a kind of abrupt twist,
as if it had been broken, and badly set. I cannot suggest any ex-
planation of this singular character, which is well known and com-
mon enough. Perhaps, owing to the perennial dampness of the soil,
the tail of cats in Borneo became an impediment. I have noted
that animals in confinement with long tails—monkeys for instance—
suffer in Borneo when kept on the ground, the tail in such cases easily
getting ulcerated. Perhaps this has been the case with the cat,
and the shortening and crookedness of its tail is a step towards
adaptation to local conditions.
In the small cove at Tanjong Datu, where our boat lay sheltered,
the wind at that season being from the south-west, the sea was
perfectly smooth. We were only a few hundred yards from the
westernmost point of Borneo, where no anchorage exists, even for
small vessels, and where the sca is always rough, even during the
good season, and very much so during the north-east monsoon.
The weather being fine next morning, I started to round
the cape by sea; but as soon as we got beyond the protection it
afforded against the south-west wind, we met with such heavy
weather that the sampan began to fill, and to avoid getting swamped
I had to turn back. The sea is always more or less heavy here on
226
xv] _ THE RETURN JOURNEY
account of the meeting of two contrary currents off the point. We
were soon back in our quiet cove. Near it, as at Satang and Sam-
padien, there are patches of sandy beach, where turtles land to
deposit their eggs. On the overhanging and more inaccessible cliffs
Collocalia nidifica builds its edible nests ; at least, I believe it to be
that species, although I obtained neither specimens of the bird nor
of its nest.
It is notable that all along the coast, from Tanjong Datu to
Bruni, there are no coral banks, so frequent elsewhere in Malaysia,
and their absence causes that of a host of associated marine pro-
ductions on the entire coast of North Borneo. Tanjong Datu is
mostly formed of granite, together with serpentines and other meta-
morphic rocks.
At low tide I collected seaweeds, and got some very fine species,
several new to science.t. A Sargassum was very abundant amongst
the rocks, which turned out to be Sargassum angusttfolium, I. Ag.
On no portion of the Bornean coast, however, have I found alge so
varied and abundant as they are on the coasts of the Mediterranean
and the Red Sea. The sandy bottom, continually shifted by big
waves during the north-east monsoon, and the deposits carried
down by the many large rivers, prevent the development of cellular
marine plants, and along with them that varied and marvellous
world of sea creatures which require clear and tranquil waters for
their reproduction.
Beginning my return journey I visited another small cove, where
I collected a few plants and some littoral land snails, very abundant
in low spots amidst rotting vegetable detritus thrown up and accu-
mulated by the sea.
At 2 a.m. on the 18th, with a favourable tide and splendid moon-
light, we paddled for about an hour and came to another small bay, at
the head of which we found a little streamlet of beautiful water.
Here we anchored again, and as soon as daylight came I collected
shells, seaweeds, and other plants. On the rocks in this inlet grew
a very fine species of Pandanus ; its straight cylindrical stem, sup-
ported on large aerial roots, was about thirty feet high, and was
divided above into several horizontal branches, again forking once
or twice, and terminating in tufts of rather broad leaves similar in
aspect to those of Crinum giganteum. It was, perhaps, Pandanus
dubius, Spreng., or an allied species. |
The next day no collections were made. We reached and anchored
at Samattang, a village of ten houses, inhabited by Malays and a few
Chinamen. Between Tanjong Datu and Samattang are only four
insignificant streams, hardly, if at all, navigable, even for small
1 Amongst these, Dictyota maxima, Zan., and D. Beccaviana, Zan., are
the most remarkable. (Cf. ZANARDINI. ‘‘ Phycearum indicavum pugillus a
Cl. Ed. Beccari, etc., collectarum.’’ Venezia, 1872.)
227,
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
boats, and only to be entered at high tide. They are the Samon-
saur, nearest to Tanjong Datu; the Bekuching, the Poe, and the
Sero.
On the 2oth I ascended the Samattang for some hours, but the
tree-trunks which had fallen in the river eventually stopped me.
The Malays, however, go up it in very small canoes as far as
Gunong Poe in search of dammar, which is found there in abundance.
Returning nearly to the mouth, I attempted to go up the other branch
of the river, which ought to lead to the foot of Gunong Angus, a hill
which is said by the natives to be inhabited by antus, or spirits of
a bad sort, and where one cannot go without great risk of contracting
a disease of some kind. This, at least, my men asserted with an air
of great conviction, which only made me the more desirous of reach-
ing this abode of the malevolent spirits. The branch of the river
I had entered, however, was a perfect labyrinth of canals and small
passages between nipa palms and mangroves, quite unknown to my
men ; and, having no pilot, we found ourselves, after much wandering
about, back at the very point we had started from, and were thus
obliged to give up the attempt of reaching the enchanted hill, which,
in all probability, must have got its name as a specially malarious
locality.
I was told that at Gunong Angus many edible nests of the small
swift are to be found, but nobody dares to go and collect them.
The Samattang appeared to me very uninteresting, and I found
not a single plant or animal that I had not met with before. I was
told, however, that along its upper course the ‘“‘ bua pacma’’—the
Raffiesia which I have already described—grew abundantly. In
a Straight line I do not think that the principal branch of the Samat-
tang river extends for more than ten miles inland. It is very wide
at its mouth, and has a very tortuous course; but, after about two
hours’ paddling up stream, it became so shallow as to be only navi-
gable for small canoes.
On the 21st I resumed my coasting journey towards the Sarawak
river. Halting at Tanjong Batu, I found a beautiful specimen of
Cycas circinalis, L., over thirty feet high, and with a twice bifur-
cated trunk. We stopped again at Tanjong Plandok to dry the
paper of the botanical specimens, where I collected a few good species
of seaweeds. The rocks here are of a limestone which is almost
black in colour.
We next passed the Belungei river, navigable for some hours
by sampans ; and the Skambal, a small stream which can only be
entered at high tide. It was dark when we reached the mouth of
the Lundu, where we anchored for the night.
I had gone to sleep as usual in the sampan, which, with the ebbing
tide, became, before long, high and dry. In the middle of the night
I was suddenly aroused by the cries of my men, whom, by the feeble
228
xv] AT LUNDU
light of the stars, I could see rushing out of the boat towards the
forest, brandishing their parangs and spears. I could not make
out at first what had happened, but soon joined in the laugh when
my men returned from the vain chase of a wild boar, which had come
sniffing round quite close to the boat, attracted, no doubt, by the
odour of our provisions.
On the morning of the 22nd I entered and ascended the Lundu
river, which I had already explored, but I wished to pay a visit to
my friend Mr. Nelson, then Resident or Government Agent in this
district. I reached the Residency just at the time the Dyaks were
bringing their annual tribute, which consisted of two dollars for each
adult male. At Lundu there were several very big houses, each of
which, belonging to a number of families, may be looked upon as a
separate village. In one of these houses, which are tolerably com-
mon inland, there were living 150 men and an unknown number of
women. There was also a church here built of timber, and a sub-
stantial house for the missionaries. Above the village the river,
which rises behind Mount Mattang, can be ascended for three or four
days in small boats. Near its sources the Chinese have found gold,
in formations similar to those at Busso and at Bau; and were at
that time asking to be aided by Government to begin working.
The Chinese had fine gardens and orchards at Lundu, remarkably
well kept, where, amongst other cultivated plants, the mulberry
tree was growing. This interested the Tuan Muda a good deal, as
he wished to attempt the rearing of silkworms.
The Dyaks mostly cultivate rice on terraced hill fields on the
dry system ; but in the plains of Lundu the usual water cultivation
is also practised. There, in the abandoned ricefields, already
covered with rank high herbage, I found growing a wild species of
rice plant called by the Malays “ padi pipit,” i.e. “‘ sparrow rice,”
because its grain is much smaller than that of the cultivated plant.
I imagine that these must have grown from seeds of the ordinary
cultivated rice plant, fallen out of the husk during the harvest, which,
in the lack of any cultivation had to submit to a struggle with the
weeds, and thus produced smaller grain—a return to the primitive
wild form.t
Next day I descended the river, and reaching its mouth headed
once more for the Sarawak. We passed the night at Sumpa, a
small fisherman’s hamlet composed of seven or eight huts; and on
the twenty-fourth of June we paddled towards Santubong, where I
had a slight attack of malarial fever, the first I had experienced
during two years of a nomadic life in the forests of Borneo. I
could not at first believe that the uneasiness and the shiverings I
1 This kind of rice has been collected by Zollinger in Java, and distributed
under the name of Oryza sativa (L. spontanea).
229
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP. Xv
felt were caused by fever, the sensation was so new to me; but
later I got quite enough experience of the kind. At night we
reached Santubong.
Between the Lundu and Sarawak rivers are several streams,
which, going from west to east, are the following: The Sampadi,
Pangerang, Sumpa, Setto, Burungbungan, Sibu, Mersan, and Salak.
In the latter and in the Sibu large praus can enter; in the Sungei
Burungbungan only fishing boats ; the others are of insignificant
size.
CHAPTER XVI
THE ROTANG YIELDING DRAGON’s BLoop—SINGHI HILL—NOTABLE PALMS
AND THEIR UsES—ACROSS THE FOREST—ROTANG JERNANG—MANNER
OF EXTRACTING DRAGON’S BLOOD—THE LIRAN—SINGULAR FUNGI—
A Nicut Bivouac—Giant Patm LEaves—Dyak METHODS OF
MAKING FIRE—FISHING IN FOREST STREAMS—VARIED USES OF BAMBOOS
Dyak TEETH STAINING—OTHER CUSTOMS OF THE LAND-DyaKs—
MOBILITY OF THE TOES IN MALAYS AND DyAaks—NOTES ON THE FISHES
OF THE SARAWAK RIVER—POISONOUS FISHES AND SINGING FISHES—
A THIEF-DETECTING FISH—FISHING WITH THE ‘* TUBA.’’
SUALLY in undertaking an excursion [had in view the col-
lection of some animal, plant, or product which had a par-
ticular interest for me, and with which I was as yet unacquainted.
Amongst the latter was the rotang which produces the jernang,
or “ dragon’s blood,” a kind of resin of a bright red colour. Having
heard that the plant from which this valuable drug is obtained was
common in the densely matted primeval jungle on the north-western
slopes of Mount Mattang, I started in search of it at the beginning
of July, accompanied by several Singhi Dyaks well acquainted with
the locality.
During my residence on Mattang I had visited Singhi more than
once, following a pathway through the vast forest. From Kuching,
however, the village is reached much more conveniently by going
up the Sarawak river to a spot past Bellida, whence a tolerably good
path leads in about an hour to the foot of the hill on which the houses
are built.
The Singhi Dyaks were old acquaintances and good friends of
mine, and I had no difficulty in finding the men I required for the
projected excursion. Their houses were scattered over different
parts of the hill, all in highly picturesque positions, and always
shaded by a grand and luxurious vegetation nearly exclusively
formed by cultivated trees, such as durians, coconut palms, pinangs,
arengas, langsats, rambutans, and especially bamboos, which
acquire colossal dimensions, and form green and spreading clumps
of remarkable beauty.
On the Singhi hill I also met with a splendid, and at the same
time more or less useful, palm, which is in general allowed to grow
near the houses. One might almost imagine it a cultivated species,
231
IN BORNEAN FORESTS [ CHAP.
yet it reproduces itself naturally by seed. I am alluding to the
magnificent Caryota, which the Singhi Dyaks call “ kayuno,” and
the Malays “ baroch.”+ In the rich soil around the houses this
palm shows an extremely powerful growth, its stems attaining a
height of forty to fifty feet. They are thicker than those of the
coconut, perfectly straight, smooth, and marked with many rings,
the scars where old fronds were once attached to the stem. These
fronds are immense, as much as twenty-five feet or more in
length, and differ from the usual type common to most palms in
being much divided, with the terminal divisions of a half lozenge
or swallow-tailed shape. In enormous bunches hanging from the
upper part of the trunk are a prodigious number of fruits of a red
colour, and the size of cherries. These are useless, and, indeed,
harmful, for when ripe they contain an acrid juice which causes
intense irritation if it comes in contact with a delicate part of the
skin. The most notable peculiarity of this palm is that its stem
swells out in the middle, assuming a fusiform aspect recalling that
of Oveodoxa regia. The cause of this thickening may, perhaps, be
explained by the very rapid growth of the species during the inter-
mediate period of its life. Notwithstanding this character—although
Iwas at first inclined to consider the tree as a distinct species, re-
stricted to Borneo, and had even described it as such under the name
of Caryota No—I came later to the conclusion that it must be regarded
as a mere variety or local race of C. Rumphiana, a widely diffused
species in the eastern part of the Malay Archipelago.
The Kayu No is by the Singhi Dyaks only used for certain
long black fibres, known to them as talionus, which they obtain
through maceration from the midribs of the leaves, and use for fish-
ing lines. These same fibres, woven with strips of the aerial roots
of Eugeissonia, and of rotangs, are used to make cylindrical baskets
called tambuk, and for similar kind of work.
I have mentioned the Arenga (Avenga saccharifera), another
great palm which grows very luxuriantly at Singhi (where it is called
adjok), and has fronds reaching a length of over thirty feet. In
Sarawak this well known palm is appreciated not so much for the wine
or toddy and for the sugar which can be extracted from it, as for the
black fibre, not unlike horsehair, which is found in large quantities
around the bases of the fronds, and clothes the entire trunk. With
these fibres rope of all sizes is made, of great strength, nearly ever-
lasting in durability, and much used by Malays for the rigging of
their praus, and especially for cables. The Dyaks also make an ex-
tensive use of ropes of this material ; the finer kinds are preferred to
rotang for tying beams and other wooden parts of the framework
of native houses throughout Sarawak.
1 Cf. Beccar1; in Nuovo Giornale Botanico Italiano, vol, 111, p, 12.
222
evr IN SEARCH OF ROTANG JERNANG
Having passed the night in one of the Dyak houses at Singhi, I
started at 8a.m. on July 5, guided by several Dyaks and accompanied
by two of my Malays, for the locality where the rotang jernang
grows. I had brought with me supplies for several days, and every-
thing necessary for camping in the forest, besides a good quantity
of paper for drying botanical specimens.
The road at first led up the Singhi hill, where, from time to time,
we came upon Dyak houses, passing through perfect woods of fruit
trees, mostlv durians, and great clumps of bamboos. We descended
on the opposite side by a steep and slippery pathway, and, on getting
to the plain, found the road even worse, having to cross swampy
ground in which we sank up to the knees. Here grew many sago
and baroch palms; the latter naturally sown by animals; the sago
originally planted. When a stem of sago palm is cut down, new
shoots grow out from its stump, which at first run along the ground,
and then rise vertically up, producing new stems, without any kind
of cultivation.
Having left the swampy tract behind us, we crossed undulating
ground covered with secondary forest vegetation, which farther on
merges into primeval forest, much easier to get through. We next
ascended a spur of Gunong Mattang, about 1,000 feet high, along
whose crest we continued for along while onasort of plateau. It is
a locality where livan (Pholidocarpus majadum, Becc.), jattao
(Eugetssoma imsignis, Becc). nisang (Licuala), and other smaller
palms abound, together with a great variety of rotangs. We next
climbed several hills and crossed small valleys, where the vegetation
was of avery wild and primitive character. Amongst the more im-
portant plants I met with here was a fine Anonacea (Gontothalamus
lateritius, sp. n. (P.B. No., 3610), a small tree which was remarkable,
even at a distance, on account of its large flowers of a brick-red colour
which cluster in great numbers low down, near the ground, around
the warty stem.* I also found a small but very graceful species
of Phalenopsis, with the perianth yellowish-green blotched with
blood-red, and the labellum reddish.
After a continuous and rapid march of seven hours, we got to
the banks of the Raju torrent, the main branch of the Burung-
bungan, a small stream I have already mentioned which reaches
the sea opposite Pulo Satang, and whose mouth I crossed on my
way back from Tanjong Datu. We found there a lanko in fairly
good condition, which saved us the trouble of constructing one.
1 This Goniothalamus appears to be allied to G. Riedleyi, King, which
has also large flowers clustered at the base of the stem; but it apparently
differs by its glabrous leaves, which are 10 to 12 inches long, with numerous
lateral nervures. The flowers of G. latevitius are some 24 to 3 inches across,
and are pedunculate, these peduncles being at least as long again as the
flower.
233 a
—_
147, 383
Formicarian plants, 404 et seq.
Fort Sibu, 318; Fort Lingga, 138
Fossils, 123; at Bau, 135
Foxes, flying (Pteropus), 36
Frog, eggs of, in Nepenthes pitchers, 96 ;
fascinated by snake, 34; flying, 36
Fruits, with swimming apparatus, 187 ;
cultivated in Sarawak, 25; germi-
nating on the parent plant, 83;
edible wild, 110, 130, 114; used as
soap. 131
Fruit-trees, 129, 131, 281
Fungi on Mattang, 113; growing on
body of ant, 164; of wide geo-
graphical distribution, 248; phos-
phorescent, 76; of large size, 234;
hypogeal, 324; abundance in;
Borneo, 113; on rotten trunks, 9;
poisonous, 102; on leaves, 387
Gading, Mount, ascent of, 104
Gal@opithecus volans, 36
Gambir, 67, 374
Gamboge, 131
Garcinia Beccarit, 131 ;
G. mangostana, 25
Gaudichaud, on buttresses of trees, 88
Genoa Museum, orang crania in, 199
Geology of Grogo, Pininjau, etc., 352
Geomitra episcopalis, 112
Gestro, Prof., 163
Gigholi, Prof., on the crania of orangs,
G. linearis, 299 ;
417
on cranial capacity of orangs,
on the negroid race, 22
genus of palm peculiar to
G. insignis, 259
199 ;
205 ;
Gigholia,
Borneo, 396, 260 ;
Gold, at Kumpang, 169; in Sarawak,
370; at Marop, 142); athPakuy 352%
its formation in caves, 352
Gontocephalus Borneensts, 35
Gontothalamus lateritius, 233, 402 ;
Riedleyi, 233; G. suaveolens,
Gracula qavanensis, 32
Grammatophyllum speciosum, 399
Grass, love-, 5; cow-, 192; forage-,
192
Grogo (on the Umpanang), 175 et seq. ;
(on the Sarawak), 352
G.
104
Gunong (—Mount) Angus, 228; Baji,
130; Baloi, 304; Braam, 132;
Bulu, 56; Bunga, 56; Gading,
104; Gumbang, 56; Julit, 289,
293; Kalamantang, 254; Kanan-
pei, 190; Lessong, 137; Lingga,
343; Mulu, 256; Pennerrissen,
126,130; Poe, 98 et seq. ; Sikkom,
130; Skunyet, 57; Tilong, 254,
303; Tundong, 132; Tutop, 176;
Wa, 126, 130
Guttapercha, 91, 282, 374, 392
Hail, rare in Borneo, 372
Hair as racial characteristic, 22; of
Chinese girl, 86
Halicore australis, 224
Halophila Beccarii, 262
Hand, of orang-utan, 203, 204
Haviland, Dr., ascends Kina Balu, 249
Head-hunting, 44, 47, 50, 316, 377
Hedycarpus malayanus, 48
Height of trees, 84, 88, 89, 330;
Bornean massif, 304
Helarctos malayanus, 37, 106, 158
Hemadipsa, 10
Hepatice, on Mount Poe, 101
Heredity, 212 et seq.; influence of,
augments, 215
Heritiera litovalis, 80
Hievax cerulescens, 11
Hindu ruins in Borneo, 366
Homo, how differing from Simia, 217
of the
Honey, 334
Hooker, Sir Joseph, on Nepenthes
Veitchtt, 96; on Nepenthes, 408 ;
on the pollen of Typha, 308
Hopea, height of, 89
Hornbill (Buceros vhinoceros), 117
Horses in Borneo, 255
Hose, Dr., exploration of Barram river,
363 ; finds stone implements, 367
“ Hospitating ’’ plants, 405
Houses, Dyak, 50, 170 et seq. 174, 229,
306; head-, 54, 55; votive, 288 ;
Kayan, 268; Chinese, 86; at
Bruni, 249
BEE;
INDEX
Hovelacque and Hervé, on the great toe
in the anthropoids, 207
Hoya imperialis, 264; a solvent for
upas, 280
Humus, its production, 111; its in-
fluence on root-production, 386
Huts, bamboo, 128
Hybridism and species formation, 215
Hydnophyvtum, 405 et seq.
Hylobates Muelleyi, 30
Idols of the Mellanaos, 257, 265 ; made
by author, 295
Igan river, 319 et seq.
Igan village, 322
Iguanura palmuncula, 114
Ikan, meaning of the word, 293
Implements, stone, in Borneo, 367 ; for
making sago, 288 ; for spinning, 174
Indiarubber, 260, 374, 392
Insects, their connexion with Ficus, 394 ;
with Nepenthes, 96, 405 etseq.; with
orchids, 401
Instruments, musical, of Kayans, 272
Iris, of Cymborhynchus, 134
Tron ores in Kayan country, 282, 371
Islands, floating, 259
Isoptera Borneensis, 92, 124, 391
Ixidia squamata, 77
Jack-fruit, 27, 402
Jars, ancient Chinese, 178, 365
Java, fertility of, 368
Javanese, early immigration of, 22; in
Sarawak, 17
Joinvillea Borneensis, 128
Jungermannias, 28
Justice, administration of, in Sarawak,
376
Kadjamans, 298, 300, 302, 317, 363
Kadjan, or Kajang, mats, 81, 223
Kadjattao sago, 307 et seq.
Kaladi (Alocasia), 110
Kam (or Akam) Diam, a Kayan chief,
298, 300, 302; Kam Lassa, 268 ;
Kam Lia, 290; Kam Nipa, 270;
Kam Uan, 272
““Kamang’’ (mountain spirits), 62, 110
Kanowits, 317; people and river, 326
Sl SNGClon BG) 2OR, 32e
Kantu village and Dyaks, 174
Kaolin, 352
Kapit, trade at, 362
Kapuas river, 130; tribes of, 317 ; lakes,
183 et seq.
Karangan river, 130
“Karangan ”’ (diamondiferous gravel-
beds), 126
Karins, or Karens, of Burma, resemble
Dyaks, 366
Karsten, on respiratory roots, 83
Katti, equivalent weight of a, 268
Kayan auguries, 281 ; dances, 271, 307,
309; canoes, 307; as watermen,
312 et seq.; songs, 366; houses,
268; funeral ceremonies, 275 ;
fetishes, 267, 300; tombs, 268 ;
roofs, 268 ; chiefs, 269, 270 ; women,
271 ; dress, 271, 275, 278; collecting
camphor, 272; decorations, 276 ;
weapons, 278, 282; perforation of
penis, 278; character, 280, 281 ;
work iron, 282; origin of name,
306; number in Sarawak, 373;
slaves, 306; masquerades,
309 ; human sacrifices of, 364
Kayans, 264, 267 et seq., 302, 310,
365 ; of the Bulungan, 362; of the
Batang-Kayan, 362; of the Tubao,
267 et seq. ; of the Tunei, 296
Kedjans, or kedjangs, 300, 312
Keppel, Admiral, 42, 246, 356
Ketibas river, 317, 336; Dyaks of, 42,
312 :
Kina -Balu, 248, 256; height of, 248 ;
possibly volcanic, 372 ; population
near, 253; flora of, 411
King, Sir George, on Fici, 123, 394
Kinyas, 317, 362; on the Barram, 281
Klai tribes, 317
Kog-go lizard, 35
Koom village, 123, 124
Korthalsia, a formicarian plant, 407,
408
Koti river, 3175) 3025
ruins on, 366
Krah monkey, 30
Krempelhuber, on Bornean lichens, 28
Krian tribes, 317
Kruing oil, 223
Kuching, 4 et seq.; soil of, 28; of to-
day, 372 et seq.; Chinese revolu-
tion at, 358
Kkunsi (Chinese headman), 154 et seq.
‘“ Kurap,’”’ skin disease, 60, 325
300 ;
source of, 303 ;
Labbang village, 266, 290
Labuan, 244 et seq., 360; coal of, 185
Ladja, a Baloi Dyak, 325; is wounded,
326; in holiday attire, 339
Lakes, Kapuas, 183 et seq.; flora of,
187, 411
Lalage tevat, 13%
Lalang grass, 6, 411
Lamadjan, 184
Lampei Hill, 186
Lamprophorus nitens, 75
Lanan tribes, 317
-Landak river, source of, 130
Langsat fruit, 25
Languages of Borneo, show no Chinese
affinities, 366
Lanko (hut of Dyaks), construction of,
Fi
Lanun tribes, 21, 225
418
INDEX
Leaves, changing position with rain, 80 ;
covered with parasitic plants, 69 ;
of nipa-palm, 81; the largest
known, 236 ; smooth, the best con-
densers, 28; shape of, in forest
trees, 386; narrow, 305, 393;
variegated, 342, 387
Lead, in Sarawak, 371
Leeches, 10, 155, 165
Leppu Teppus, 362 ; Leppu Bams, 362
Leprieur, on flowering freshwater alge,
314
Leprosy, 131
Leptasts urceolata, 385
Leptothvix punctiformis, 192
Leuconotis elasticus, 260
Lianas, 391
Liberian coffee, 369
Lichens, their predilection for smooth
bark, 28
Licuala Bintulensts, 259; L. Borneensts,
284; L. covdata, 298; L. olhive-
formis, 284; L. orbiculavis, 70;
L. paludosa, 286; L. spathellifera,
259
Limestone rocks, 57, 123, 170
Limnophila sessiliflova, 188
Limnotis Lowei, 10
Lingga River, 41, 138, 345, ; fort, 138
Lizards, 34, 35
Lobang Angin, 132
Lobiophasis bulweri, 312
Loranthus, 141, 389
Lotus ((Nelumbium speciosum), 102
Loureiro, on length of rotangs, 114
“ Love-grass,’’ 5
Low, Hugh Brooke, 363;
songs, 366
Low, Sir Hugh, 246 et seq. ;
arrow poison, 2738
Lowtanthus Borneensis, 399
Lumnitzeva coccinea, 81
Lundu river, 98, 229
Lyell, Sir Charles, on cave-exploration
in Borneo, 217
on Kayan
on an
Macaranga caladifolia, 407
Macrosolen Beccarit, 389
Macacus cynomolgus, 30; M. nemestrinus,
30
Maccuccia grandiflova, 110
Mahakam. See Makam
Makam, or Mahakam, river, 304, 362
Malays, 19 et seq.; typical mental
characteristics, 242; physical, 22 ;
an aquatic people, 239. 250; their
knowledge of fish, 239; their
number in Sarawak, 373; titles, 4
Mammals, Bornean, chiefly adapted for
arboreal existence, 37; flying, 35
et seq.
Man, origin of white, 220; the creator
of domesticated plants, 308; an-
tiquity of, 308; place of origin of,
217; origin of black, 220; his
first idea of weapons of the chase,
139
“Manang,” on Shamans, 52
“Manet,” derivation of word, 263
Mango, 25 ; wild, 165
Mangosteen, 25 ; wild, 130
Mangroves, 81, 83
Mantegazza on Neogenesis, 214
Mapania versicolor, 388
Maranta zebrina, 388
Marcano, on black water, 182
Mariscus umbellatus, 131
Marop, 142 et seq.; grasses at, 192;
scarcity of plants at, 146; butter-
flies at, 153.
Market at Bruni, 252
Marriage ceremony of Lingga Dyaks, 27
Marsh plants, 188, 320
McDougall, Bishop, 40
Masks and dances of Kayans, 307
Massif, Centralof Borneo, 373. See also
under Batu Puti and Batu Tibang
Matonia pectinata, 96
Mats, Kadjan, 81, 223 ; made from ginger
fibre, 176
Mattang, Mt., 66 et seq., 88 et seq., 106
et seq., height of, 85; house on,
71, 73, 88; ascent of, 68; storms
on, 119; dipterocarps of, go ; rich-
ness of its flora, 89; its forest of
great antiquity, 93; coffee planta-
tion on, 108 ; meaning of the name,
Tog; temperature on, 88; mea-
surement of trees on, 89
““Mattang’’ (tabu of the Dyaks), 267,
293
Mattangs (places characterised by
special vegetation), 16; at Marop,
147; analogous to Brazilian cam-
pos, 147; on the Umpanang, 189
Mattirolo, Prof., on disanthohisation, 404
Mayas (see Orang-utan) Kassa, 144, 145,
195, 196, 199, 204, 205; Rambei,
145, 1606; Tjaping, 145, 147, 163,
197, 199
Medinillopsis Beccariana, 278
Melaleuca leucodendron, 223
Melastoma Beccarianum, 252
Meliet river, 334, 335
Mellanaos, 257, et seq.; votive house,
288; graves and carving, 265;
human sacrifices among, 364; num-
ber of, in Sarawak, 373
Mengkabang oi], 84, 124
Mercury in Sarawak, 371
Microcasia pygmea, 333
Milletia sp., 392
Mill for husking rice, 345
Mimicry, 76; from environment, 214
Minkilon tribe, 317 2
419
INDEX
Mintei river, 330
Missions, 41, 42, 342, 344, 377 ; Roman
Catholic, at Bruni, 249
Modigliani on cannibalism, 364
Momordica vacemifiova, 320
Monkeys, 30); ,proboscis,* 315. red=
haired, 142, 327; eaten by Dyaks,
190
Monttor bivittatus, 34
Monsoons in Sarawak, 379
Mormolyce sp., 115
Mosquitoes, 180, 182, 189, 322, 323
Mosses on the summit of Poe, 100
Mountains, central, of Borneo, 373; See
also under Batu Puti and Batu
Tibang) ; height of, 304
Mount — See under Gunong
Movement, in plants, 74
Mowas, name of orang in Malay Penin-
sula, 205
Mrao village, 130
Muda Hassim, Rajah of Sarawak, 356
Muka, 244
Mulana, or Shamans, 52
Mulberry, 229, 369
Mullangan river, 170
Mundy, Capt., 246, 356
Munsang or Viverra, 30
Muntz on the black coloration of water,
182
Murut tribe, 253
Musa campestris, 123
Musa, endemic species of, 159
Museum at Genoa, crania in, 199
Mushroom in Borneo, 113
Music, Kayan, 272
Mussendopsis Beccariana, 390
Mussulmans of Sarawak, 19
Mutualism of plants and man, 27
Mynah, 32
Myrmecodia, 404, et seq.:
405; M. bullosa, 405
M. alata,
Naja tripudians, 35
Nasalis larvatus, 31
Nattiang, 48
Natuna Islands, coconuts of, 27
Nauclea angustifolia, 392; N. rivularis,
299, 392
Negara, antiquities found at, 366
Negritos, of Philippines and Malay
Peninsula, 22 ; not foundin Borneo
JOR
Neogenesis, 214
Nepenthes, on Poe, 101; at Kumpang,
169 ; used as rope, 191 ; number of,
404; as hospitating plants, 407,
altitude of, 410; of Kina Balu;
Pilg, GOS levee EWA Ori, QA} 5
pitchers of, 96; N. bicalcarata, 42;
407; N. echinostoma, 407; WN,
Rafflesiana, 15; N. Rajah, 248 ;
N. Veitch, 96, 97
Nephelium, 25, 130
130
Nests of orang-utan (see Orangutan) ;
of ant (Ecophylla smarvagdina), 161 ;
of Tvigona apicalis, 162
New Zealand, genus common to Borneo
and, 99
Nibong, 2, &1, 409
Nieuwenhuis, Dr., on Bornean volcanoes,
373; his journey to the interior of
Borneo, 362
Nipa palm (Nipa fruticans), 2, 81, 395,
405
Nongma, Fort, 316
Nose, in man, 32
Numenius pheopus, 120
Nyangeyan, river, 362
Nycticebus tardigrvadus, 30
Nyctrornis amicta, 135
Nymphea from Kina Balu, 247
; N. lappaceum,
Oaks, on Gunong Poe, 99; on Gunong
Wa, 128
Ocelli, of Saturnia pyri, 118 ;
pheasant, 118
Octomeles Sumatrana, 84
(Ecophylla smavagdina, 161
Oul, of camphor, 272; of Shorea, 84;
of Isopteva, 124; mineral, 372
of Argus
Oncosperma filamentosa, 2, 81, 409; O.
horvida, 409
Orang-utan, 144 et seq., 194 et seq.
(see also under Mayas) ; at Batavia,
195; at Calcutta, 195 ; at Buitenzorg,
195; native names for, 200;
crania of, 197, 199; geographical
distribution of, 200, 205; cranial
capacity of, 205; food of, 200,
204; drinking, 202; suffer from
malaria, 202; locomotion of, 202 ;
feet and hands of, 203 ; harmful to
plantations, 200; Sumatran, 205 ;
species or races of, 142, 194 et seq.,
198 et seq. ; incaptivity, 148, 195 ;
preparation of skeletons of, 150,
194; cheek expansions of, 149,
194 et seq.; Sagittal crest in, 197,
198; abnormal dentition in, 198 ;
deficient hallux in, 198; localities
inhabited by, 200; enemies of,
202; women carried off by, 204 ;
habits of, 204; fcetus of, 206; his
relation to man, 216 et seq. ; nests
of, 143, 1645) colounmonmmees
measurements of, 144, 145, 148,
152; baby, 144, 147
-Orchids, 397 ; stenophyllous, 392 ; with
coloured leaves, 387; of fcetid
odour, 390; remarkable Bornean,
180, 398; pygmy, 399; number
collected, 398; flowering of, 400 ;
terrestrial, 400
Ore, gold, at Kumpang, 169; gold, in
420
INDEX
Sarawak generally, 370; antimony,
mercury, and iron in Sarawak, 371
Oveodoxa vegia, 232
Ornithoptera Brookeana, 153
Oryza sativa, 229
Osmoxylon hellebovinum, 392
Oya Province, 374
Oysters, 253; affected by an Ascaris,
254
Paddles, Malay canoe, 223
SeeadimaweOn Patma..on Pakmia,~
native name for Rafflesia, 102
Paku village, 352, 353
Paleornis longicauda, 11
Palaquium optimum, 90, 91, 92; P.
rigidum, foetid fowers of, 390
Palembang, orang from, 205
Palms, 395; striking species of, 232;
oil, 245; sago (see under Avenga) ;
areca, 27; smallest known, 114;
peculiar to Borneo, 39£; aquatic,
of wide distribution, 286; on the
Igan River, 322; climbing, 391:
in the Rotang valley, 1:4; on the
Bintulu, 259; hospitating (Kor-
thalsia), 406; diminutive, on Mat-
tang, 70, 71; stenophyllous (Pin-
anga rviwularis), 392
“Pamali”’ or taboo, 267, 293, 306
Pandan village, 265 ; and river, 285
Pandani, 395; at Sibu, 94; marsh, 348
Pandanus dubius, 227
Pangenesis, 216
Pangerang Rio,
Bruni, 21
Pangium edule, 309
Pankalan Ampat, 124, 130, 132; anti-
quities found at, 365
Papaw fruit (Carica papaya), 26
Papuans, negroid hair of, 364
Parakeets, 11
Parang battok, 65
Parang-ilang, 46, 282
Parasitic plants, 388
Paspalum conjugatum, 192
Pelagus, antimony at, 37!
Pelidna subarquata, 120
Penis, perforation of, 278
Pennan tribe, 286, 302, 317
Pepper, 374, 375; at Bruni, 253
Perham, Mr. R. J., on Dyak songs, 50 ;
on Dyak traditions of the Deluge, 52
Per:ophthalmus kolveutert, 81
Petrosavia stellaris, 100, 388
Pfeiffer, Ida, in Rorneoc, 186
Phanerogams, marine, 262
Phalanx, ungual, of tee in orang some-
times wanting, 198
Pheasant, Argus, 117;
159; Bulwer’s, 312
Pholidocarpus majadum, 233, 395
Phosphorescence of trees and plants, 76,
158
269; Pangerangs of
Euplocamus,
Phrynum zebrinum, 387
Phyllocladus hypophylla, 99
Pigs, wild, 38, 39, 155, 323; traps for, 61
Pinang, 27, 322, 396. See also under
Areca
Pinanga brevipes, 401 ; P.crvassipes, 401 ;
P. variegata, 387; P. calamifrons,
392; P. patula, 322; P. rivularis,
392
Pininiau, 54 et seq., 352
Piracy, 356; influence on population, 20
Pistia stvatiotes, 17
Pitcher-plants. See Nepenthes
Pitchers of Nepenthes, 96, 405, 408
Pithecanthropus erectus, 217, 220
Pitta granatina, 159
Pityriasis gymnocephala, 115
Plants, aquatic, 188, 320, 410; with
large leaves, 236, 384; with narrow
leaves, 296, 297, 299, 392; alpine,
analogous with epiphytes, 397 ;
carnivorous, 408 (see also under
Nepenthes) ; with flowers on trunks,
401; with variegated or brilliant
leaves, 386; cleistogamous, 330;
adapted to floods, 296, 305 ; of the
Kapuas lakes, 187, 411; of the
primeval forest, 382; of the secon-
dary forest, 381: of the estuarine
river banks, 80, 81; domesticated,
308; marine, in freshwater, 314 ;
herbaceous of the coastal flora, 94 ;
formicarian or hospitating, 403;
marine, derived from freshwater,
360; marsh, in arid soil, 248;
parasitic, 388; climbing, 390;
saprophytic, 388; epiphytic, 396;
spinous, 114; stenophyllous, 296,
392; living in salt water, 211
Plasmation, theory of, 36; 200, et seq.
Plojarium pulcherrimum, 384
Plotus melanogaster, 291, 292
Podocarpus cupressina, 99, 128
Poe, Mount, 98 et seq.
Pollen, of Eugeissonia eaten, 308
Polyalthia anomala, 401
Polyvpodium dibteris, 16, 96
Pomponia impevratoria, 11
Pongamia glabra, 224
Population of Sarawak, 373
Porcupine, 117
Poronia Cedipus, 248
Posewitz, on Borneo, 361, 365
Posture, erect, in man, 217
Precursors of man, 216 et seq.
Primula Chinensis, 210
_Probosc:s monkey, 31
Products of Sarawak, 369 et seq.
Provinces of Sarawak, 373, 374
Psychotria acuminata, 299, 392
Pteris avachnotdea, 334, 147
Pteyomys, 36; P. nitidus, 12
Pteropus, 36, 78
421
INDEX
Ptilocercus Lowtt, 248
Pulo_ (=uisland), P. Burong, 137; P.
Kaladi, 326; P. Sampadien, 223
Punai (Tvevon vernans), 53
Punan tribe, 264, 302, 309, 312;
to be cannibals, 364
Pyvocelia opaca, 75
Pyvrotrogon kasumba, 328
Python, Bornean, 33 ; length of, 34
stated
Quercus, on Gunong
Gunong Wa, 128
Quop, paleolithic implements found at,
367
Poe, 99; on
Races, aboriginal of Borneo, 364
Rafflesia Tuan-Mud@, tor et seq., 388,
389
Rain, in Sarawak, 379, 380
Rajah Brooke, biography of, 355 et seq.
Rajah Muda (Sir Chas. Prooke), 355
376, 377
Rambutan, 25, 130
Rapids, of the Rejang, 312; of the
Sarawak, 123; of the Sakarrang,
338; of the Bellaga, 300
Rassam fern, 147, 334
Rays in fresh water, 374
Rebellion, Chinese, 258
Regatta at Kuching, 79, 355
Regions, botanic, of Borneo, 408
Reichenbach and the author’s orchids
398
Rejang River, 243, 301, 302
317, 326; delta of, 323; floating
islands from, 259; course of,
301 ; extraordinary depth of, 304,
Religions in Sarawak, 376
Renanthera on Poe, 101
‘Reptiles of Borneo, 33, et seq.
Resin, Dammar, 99, 258
Rhacophorus Reinwardti:, 36
Rhinoceros, in the Sarawak,
fossil, 135
Rhinoceros sumatrensis, 38
Rhizophore, 84
Rhododendron Brookeanum, 397; R.
lapponicum, 397; I. salicifolium,
35
Rhodomyrtus tomentusa, 247
Rhyncophorus feryvugineus, 27
khyncopyle elongata, 104
Rhytidocerus obscurus, 77
Riam Ledong, 123, 124
Rice in Sarawak, 374, 1315
Rice mill, 345
Ridley, N., on occurrence of orang in
the Malay Peninsula, 205
Rivers, with periodical floods, 297
Roads, Dyak, 8, 349
Rollulus youloul, 32
Roots, in the galleries of formicarian
Rubiacee, 405; buttress, or “ ban-
et seq.
gua f
wild, 229
ner,” 83, 260 5384\;) dulcralleessee
395
Rotang, 8; R. 7evnang, 231, 233, 234 ;
rotang kawat, 71 ; isaee tikus,
71; the valley of, 115; length of,
Il4
Rotangs, 71, II4
Ruins, Hindu, in Borneo! 366
Saba, State of (British North Borneo),
360
Sabayana, 52
Sacrifices, human, 364
Sadok, 335
Sadomak, 98
Sadong, coal on the, 372 ; source of the,
130; province of, 374
Sago (see under Arenga), 233, 244, 374,
409; making at Bintulu, 287 et
seq.; WKadjattao, 307, et seq.; as
substitute for biscuit, 303; its
good properties, 318
Sakarrang, Dyaks of the, 47 ;
of the, 336 et seq.
Salak, 80, 84
Salt, 310
Salvadori, on Bornean birds, 32, 120
Samangs, sumpitans of the, 280
Samarahan, 349
Samatan, 224
Samattang village, 227 ; river, 228
Sambas, confines of, 56, 101
Sampan, Malay, 222
Sand-flies, 180, 335
Sandoricum Maingayt, 131
Santubong, 1, 259; plants and trees on,
95; antiquities found on, 365
Sapium Indicum, used to catch fish, 241
Sapotacee@, flowering period of, 91
Saprophytes, 111, 388
Sarawak, 354 et seq. ;
descent
former territory
of, 242; extension of, 360; river,
2, 121 et Seq., 132"ete Seq meena.
vince, 374; Rangers, 376; govern-
ment of, 376; products of, 374;
population of, 373; history of,
356, 365; area of, 361; native
tribes of, 363; antiquities of, 366,
367 ; agriculture of, 367 ; minerals
of, 370; coal in, 3714) scapitalgor
372 (see also under Kuching);
climate of, 372, 379; exports of, 374
Sargassum angustifolium, 227
Sarong, 2
Satang island, 96, 97
Saturnia pyri, 118
Sauvaja angustifolia, 299, 392
Sauropatis chloris, 224
Schismatoglottis asperuta, 387;
carll, 387
Sclevia sedge, 348
Scortechini, Padre, 247
Scyphiphora hydrophyllacea, 80
S. Bec-
422
INDEX
Seeds of Byrackenridgea,
weighing diamonds, 122
Segrat, 181, 182, 189
Semnopithecus femoralis, 30; S. front-
atus, 30; S. rubicundus, 142, 327
Sempio village, 130
Senankan, 130
Senna village, 130, 131
Sensitiveness in plants, 74, 402
Sepakko river, 297
Sepas torrent, 347
Seribas Dyaks, dress of, 44;
peditions of, 47
Sericulture in Sarawak, 369
Shamans, 52
Sharks, in Rejang river, 302, 313
Shelford, Dr., on stone axe from Upper
Sadong, 367
Shells, pearl-yielding, 352 ;
207
Shorea, height of, 89; S. falciferva, 84
Sian tribe, 317
Sibu tribe, 317
Sibu (village on coast), 94;
Rejang river, 317, et sea.
Sibuyo, or Sabuyo Dyaks, 44, 347
Sigalang tribe, 317
Silikao river, 304
Silkworm rearing in Sarawak, 369
Simanggan, 42, 139, 341 ; journey from
Sibu to, 226 et seq.
Simia bicolor, 198; S. satyrus, 200
Simpor, large flowers of, 6
Singapore, visit to, 85
Singhi, 352; Dyaks, 109, 231
Sintang, 186
Sintas village, i30
Siri or betel-chewing, origin of, 27
Sirus tribe, 317
Sisir ornaments, 44, 45
Siul, Mount, 5, 8 et seq.
Skapan, 302 et seq.; tribe of, 317
Skeletons, preparation of orang, 194
Snake fascinating frog, 34; python, 33 ;
flower, 34; poisonous, 35, 155;
number collected, 35
Sodos, source of the Sadong, 130
Solms-Laubach, on Rafflesia, 104
Songs of Dyaks, 48 ; of Kayans, 366
Sonneratia acida, 80; S. lanceolata, 31,
80; root organs of, 83
Soursop and sweetsop, 26
Spathoglottis on Poe, 101
Species, fixity of, 209; new, from
! hybridising, 93 ; genesis of, 214
Spherothalamus imsignis, 110
Sphevopeus sulcatulus, 9
Spirits of the Dyaks, 52
Springs, hot, at Senna, 131
Squirrel, albino, 132; flying, 36, 12
Stapf, on flora of Kina Balu, 410
Steatoparesis in Orang-utan, 197
Steatopygia in man, 196
G7 for
War €X-
landi 227;
fort of
Stenophyllisin, 299, 305, 392
Steyna, 224
St. John, on Bornean antiquities, 366,
367; on huge buttress planks,
269; on Gunong Tilong, 303; on
sharks in rivers, 312; ascends
Kina Balu, 248; on orang-utan,
200
Stimuli, influencing organisms, 36;
of insects in the case of Ficus, etc.,
394; of animals producing thorns,
115; acting in one place may pro-
duce effect in another, 403; have
little force at the present day, 214
Stonen edible 33ichesis7
Stone implements in Borneo, 367
Strebsilas interbres, 120
Suar, or canoe-pcling, 329
Sugar, of Avenga, 232 ; cane unsuccess-
ful in Borneo, 368
Sultan of Bruni, visit to, 250; death of,
356
Sumpitan, 46, 278 et seq. ;
making, 331, 332
Sumpitan fish (Tovodes), 139
Sumundjang, 348, 349
Sungei river, 2
Sunta river, 121, 252
Sus vevrvucosus, T49
Syzygium nerifolium, 299, 392
method of
Taboo, or ‘‘ Pamali,’”’ 267, 293, 306
Tajau jars, 178, 365
Tamadao, or Tambadao, (Bos Sondat-
cus), 311
Tama-Dian, Kayan chief, 306
Taman tribe, 317
Tangling (Matis javanica), 30
Tanjong, meaning of word, 2;
Datu, 224, 226
Tanjong tribe, 317
Tapang, 107 et seq., 269, 281; height
of, 330 (and see under 4bauria)
Tapir, 38
Tappo Kakas village, 125 ea
Tarsius spectyum attracted by Nepen-
thes, 407
Tattooing among the Kayans, 278
Temperature at Mattang, 88; at
Marop, 162; in the forest, 334
Temples, Hindu, in Borneo, 366
Terekia Cinevea, 120
Termites, 9
Terns, nesting of, 224
Tetranthera salicifolia, 299, 392
Tctraspora gelatinosa, 192
Tetrodon, sp., 240
Tevsmannia altifrons, 236, 395
Thalassochelvs caretta, 98
Thismia Neptunis, 111,112; T. ophiuris,
LET, MLZ
Thovea flagelliformis, 104
Thorns, theory on production of, 115
ale
423
INDEX
Tiang Laju, Mount, 155
. Tigers in Singapore, 86
Tiles, bamboo, 128
Timber of Shorea jalcata, 84
Tinder for production of fre, 236
Tjaping, meaning of word, 149 (see also
under Orang-utan and Mayas)
Toad, Ko-ga, 2383
Tobacco, Dyak, 174
Togak, Mount, 176
Tolypothrix distorta,192; T. flexuosa, 192
Tombs, Kayan, 268
Tomistoma Schlegelii, 188
Toxodes jaculator, 139
Trachvcomus ochrocephalus, 388
Tragulus, 38; T. napu, 30
Trapa natans, 259
Traps, for wild boar, 61
Treacher, Mr. W..H., on the native
name of Borneo, 254
Trees, height of, 84, 38, 108, 230;
fruit, 129, 131; mutually support
each other, 7; ageof, 110 ; covered
by water, 184
Tree-trunks, flowering, 8, 233, 401
Tveron vernans, 53
Trial by water, 177; Dyak, 338
Trigonocephalus Wagleri, 155
Trinchese, Prof. on orang fcetus, 206
Trogon, 328
Trousers an ancient form of dress, 23
Trusan Province, 374
Trusans, or estuary channels, 80
Tuan-ku, meaning of word, 10; Tuan-ku
Yassim, II, 195
Tuan Muda (present Rajah of Sarawak),
4, 108; fRafflesia dedicated to,
104; excursion to Poe with, 08 ;
expedition against Kayans, 313
Tuba (poison for fish), 240, 279
Tubao river, 267, 290, 295
Tubers of hospitating plants,
colossal, of Dioscorea, 131
Tummusong, Kayan chief, 269
Tunei village, 296
Turtles, 98, 224, 227
Tutop, Mount, 176
404 ;
Ukit tribe, 317, 363
Umbut, or “ cabbage ”’ of palms, 69
Umpanang river, 181, 183, 189
Uncaria Gambir, 67, 374
Undup, 42, 341; river, 139
Unggan village, 141
Unona flagellaris, 333, 390, 403
“Untut,”’ or elephantiasis, 241
Upas tree and poison,158, 252, 278, 300,
346 :
Urari poison, 279
Urnularia oblongifolia, 262
Uvostigmas, crowded with birds, 12, 394
Utan, meaning of word, 31
Utricularia exoleta, 192
Vallombrosa, 84, 87, 106, et seq. ; left
alone at, 118, 369
Van Schelle, discovers Melabu volcano,
372
Vanda Louwnt,125, 247; VY. suavis, 180
Variability of species, 210 ; checked by
the force of heredity, 212, 213
Variation not due to adaptation, 211 ;
how occasioned, 210, 211
Vegetation of the estuaries, 80; of the
Upper Sarawak, 123, 124; of the
seashore, 94) 5) (of SRocwoo OON,
on Lessong, 344; special areas of,
408 et seq.
Venetian beads, 263
Vicia faba, 403
Vinciguerra, Dr., on Bornean fish, 182,
240
Viverra (V. tangalunga), 30
Volcanic islands always fertile, 368
Volcano, Melabu, 372; volcanoes in
Borneo, 372
Wa, Mount, 126, 130
Wa-wa monkey, 30
Wallace, on facial adiposities of orang,
195; on orang throwing fruit, 204 ;
his visit to the Sadong, 137; to
Pininjau, 57; on flowering tree-
trunks, 402
Water, black, 182 et seq. ; trial by, 177
Waterfall of Mount Gading, 104
Waterparting, Central Bornean, 362;
Batang-Lupar and Pontianak, 172
Whitehead, G., his exploration of
Kina Balu, 249
Woods, Tenison, on coal formation, 185
Winds, Cave of the, 132
Wine, palm, 48
Wings, of seeds as navigating organs, 92
Wood, of Shorea falcata, 84; fossil, 124
“ Woodlands,” 85
Wymann, on the foot of the human
embryo, 207
Zanardini, on Bornean alge, 227
Zannetti, on skull of a Buketan, 263
Zebu hump, analogous to steatoparesis,
197
Zingiberacea, root of, used to rub skin,
328 ; remarkable, 160
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