SB 321 5 -N2 Copy 2 ctory Edition 1919 WAR GARDENING and Home Storage of \egetables x Publishe d lay | National War Garden Commission 3... DC. WAR DEPARTMENT WASHINGTON June 7, 1918. NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION, WASHINGTON, D.C. Dear Sirs: The War Department finds much satisfaction in the creation of War Gardens at various army camps by the Conservation and Reclamation Division of the Quartermaster General’s office. Food production at these camps has been the subject of some concern with the department. The large areas of tillable land within many of the military reservations have been regarded as offering potential food production on a large scale, and I feel that the army is to be congratulated that the utilization of this space has now taken concrete form. Camp War Gardens will serve more than one useful purpose. The pro- duction of food at the mess door is of great importance in that it not only lessens the army’s demand on the usual sources of supply but eliminates transportation as well. To the National War Garden Commission I extend the thanks of the Depart- ment for its quick response to the appeal of the Quartermaster General’s office for co-operation. Not confining itself to mere compliance with the letter of the request, the Commission entered fully into its spirit. At a time when funds were not available through Government channels the Commission voluntarily provided seed, fertilizers and equipment which made possible the establishment of a War Garden of 300 acres or more at Camp Dix. For this generous contri- bution and for swift action to overcome the handicap of a late start I take pleasure in making this acknowledgment and in expressing the hope that the Camp Dix War Garden of the National War Garden Commission will prove an unqualified success. Cordially yours, (Signed) NEWTON D. BAKER, Secretary of War. UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION Baltimore, Maryland. September 14, 1918. NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION, Maryland Building, WASHINGTON, D.C. Gentlemen: We wish to express to you our appreciation of your helpfulness in our war garden, canning and drying work in Maryland during the season of 1918. Your book on canning and drying has been of great value, while the canning outfits which you so kindly gave us made it possible for us to establish canning centers throughout the State, with results of far-reaching importance which could not have been otherwise accomplished. We are equally appreciative of your prompt and willing response to our request for the services of one of your trained investigators — to assist in our war garden work. Your spirit of prompt and willing service is cordially appreciated. : Yours truly, (Signed) EDWIN G. BAETJER, Federal Food Administrator for Maryland. i] : ai, crop value to this country’s food oF production they made it easier for _ America to feed her own people and the people of France and Belgium. Pts : N hs a ‘ Yoo ~ D ey \ MAKE YOUR WAR GARDEN A GARDEN OF VICTORY By CHARLES LATHROP PACK, President National War Garden Commission MERICA’S responsibility for the world’s food supply did not stop with the ending of the war. In peace, as in conflict, this country must carry the burden of Europe’s food problems. With the advent of peace these problems have become intensified. America is now expected to furnish the solution and this can be done only through the continued application of high pressure food production and un- wavering food conservation. For two years of war the War Gardens.of America produced food- stuffs which helped establish the balance of power between starvation and abundance. In the spring of 1918, General Haig declared, ‘‘We stand with our backs to the wall.’ Of that call to the civilized world no phase was more vital than its inter- pretation and answer in terms of food. During that year the answer was given by the American people with true American spirit. The war gardeners of the United States re- sponded with a vigor which carried the War Gardens over the top to victory. By the addition of more than five hundred million dollars of The Victory Garden is now as vital as the War Garden. Peace brings new food needs. In reclaim- ing territory from the enemy France and Belgium have greatly increased the number of their people who must be fed. By restoring these former expatriates to citizenship these coun- tries have also assumed the burden of feeding them. This will mean a vast increase in the demands on America as the source of Europe's food supply in 1919. Europe can- not feed herself during the first year of reconstruction; Russia faced famine conditions in the winter of 1918- 1919, and Mr. Hoover says that the world’s food shortage will last for another seven years. The war gardener’s responsibility, therefore, did not end with the com- ing of peace. His War Garden must now be made a Victory Garden in the full sense of the words. It must help solve the problem of feeding people rendered helpless by years of ruthless and terrible war. The garden crop of 1919 must be even greater than that of 1918, and there must be more canning and dry- ing for winter use. The people of America have a real duty to perform in this respect and the nation counts confidently on full measure of in- dividual response. PLAN OF GARDEN 50 by 75 feet, in which careful attention has been paid to proper relation of the season's crops and to a continuous supply of the more important vegetables. Hot Bed | Cold Frame | Asparagus | Rhubarb | ARRANGEMENT OF SEASON'S CROPS” | Peas, followed by late Tomatoes recnemn OS Peas, followed by Celery mee aes Be iica ? A Onion Sets, followed by Turnips . Corn, followed by Spinach ; xt . Beans i(pnch)stallawedi iy Beats ip Nae SO Beets, 14 row; Carrots, 14 row, followed by Corn anct : ‘vad a Turnips, followed by Bush Beans Potatoes, followed by Spinach Spinach, followed by Potatoes Cabbage, with Lettuce and Radishes between, followed by Carrots Beans, Bush Lima Chard, 34 row; Parsley, 14 row Parsnips, °4 row (radishes to mark row); Salsify, 14 row Corn, followed by Kohlrabi, 14 row; Cauliflower, 15 row Peas, followed by Corn Beans, Bush Lima Early Potatoes, followed by late Cabbage Early Tomatoes Peppers, 14 row; Potatoes, Okra or Eggplant, }5 row Potatoes anes Potatoes Pole Lima Beans Pole Beans Corn \ as Corn © Corn es Cucum rs : PART I WAR GARDENING MANUAL As a result of emergency created by war the home garden of America has _ become an institution of world-wide importance. The planting and growing season of 1918 demonstrated that the products thus raised are essential to the feeding of the people of the United States and the Allied Nations. Under the impetus given by the National War Garden Commission the people of this country last year produced a crop valued at $520,000,000 in gardens cultivated in backyards, on vacant lots and on other land previously untilled—the patriotic gift of the war gardens to the nation. Peace can in no wise diminish America’s responsibility for feeding Europe. The recovery of vast areas of devastated country in France and Belgium greatly increases the number of people to be fed and adds heavily to the food burden of America. less necessary than the War Garden. Because of this the Victory Garden is no WAR GARDENS HELP SOLVE TRAFFIC PROBLEM War-time brought the most serious traffic congestion the United States has ever seen. This condition has no meaning more signifi- cant than that the gardens of this year must do even more than those of 1918 in freeing the overburdened railroads from the need for transporting food products. With food short- age threatening the Allied Nations and with railroad congestion as an added factor, the war garden results of the coming season must be considerably greater even than the vast yield of last year. COMMUNITY GARDENING Excellent results are obtained through co- operative gardening work. If several fami- lies join forces they can reduce the cost of _ gardening in time, labor and money. Fami- lies having adjoining or neighboring garden _ plots may use one set of tools. To prevent _ clash of convenience it is well to have an understanding in advance as to the time when each gardener is to have the use of _ particular tools. By this arrangement it is possible to have complete equipment at ex- -« pense much less than if each gardener bought own. Money can also be saved in buying s, fertilizers and spraying materials by clubbing together and gaining advantage of the lower prices for large lots. One of the advantages of doing commu- f work is that it is possible for the gar- _ deners interested ‘in the project to employ a and a team to prepare their gardens by ving and harrowing. In this way the team can be. kept busy throughout 5 tan ne the day and the expense to each gardener will be slight. On a larger scale this principle should be applied to garden plots on tracts of vacant land allotted to individuals in or near cities © or towns. Each plot in such a tract is a separate garden, belonging to the individual or family to whom allotted. In many in- stances the municipal authorities, the mayor's war garden committee or some similar local organization, will provide an expert to super- vise work on community gardens of this character. This expert will give advice and instructions as to preparation, planting and cultivation and on other technical subjects. If an expert is not provided in this way it is wise for the gardeners to club together and arrange for one at their own expense, if the project is large enough to make this possible without too great individual cost. The help of an expert is of great value. : School children and parents may work to- gether to good advantage on these garden plots. In some communities school au- thorities allow the children to spend a por- tion of the school hours, on stated days, in their garden work. Through co-operation with street cleaning departments a munici- pal government may arrange to deliver manure to war gardeners at nominal cost. In at least one important city this is done at a charge of $2 per load. It is a good plan for municipal govern- ments to arrange for lectures at school houses or other places on practical problems in gardening. This increases efficiency. concern for its employes and the plowing the work. CORPORATION GARDENS Manufacturing concerns, and other enter- prises which employ labor on a large scale, may make valuable contribution to the national food supply by encouraging their employees to cultivate war gardens. Many concerns furnish large tracts of land, which are divided into individual garden plots. These plots are allotted to such employes as are willing to cultivate them. Each plot and everything it produces are recognized as the individual property of its cultivator. The company bears the expense of plowing and fertilizing these plots and employs an expert . to have charge. HOW TO HAVE A GOOD GARDEN Garden Plan Have a plan_for your garden—drawn to scale on paper—before you start, to give proper order in planting and enable you to buy the right amount of seeds in advance while the selection is good. Put in one general group small plants like beets, onions, lettuce, carrots, radishes and parsnips. In another general group put larger plants like corn, tomatoes and pota- toes. Spreading ground vines, like melons and cucumbers, which need wider spacing, should be put in another general group. The reason for this grouping is that the various plants in a group need similar general treat- ment as well as spacing. In making a plan provide space in which to enter costs and yield of the various crops. This will give you a complete record which will be useful another year. Another help- ful use of the plan is that it will guide you in the rotation of next year’s crops. For this purpose save vour plan for next season. In planning your garden formulate some definite plan as to what you will do with surplus vegetables. home storage of vegetables for winter use are given in Part II of this booklet. Detailed instructions for canning, drying, pike and. WAR GARDENING Fig. 1—A community garden which produced excellent results. and harrowing were d This supervision is an important help to successful gardening. Detailed instructions for _ modern methods ‘ ee The ground was provided by a manufacturing done by the company. Expert supervisors directed . . . % other forms of conservation are given in the — Home Manual on these subjects issued by ~ this Commission. 3 Sunshine In the location of a garden it is not always” possible to choose conditions as to sunlight. It is important, therefore, that in the ar. rangement of the various varieties of ve; tables which are to be planted; due ca should be given to providing the greatest’ exposure to the sun for those crops which need it most. Those plants which must rip their fruits, such as tomatoes and eggplan' require the greatest amount of sunshine, while lettuce, spinach, kale and other crops require relatively less. Foliage cro must have at least 3 hours of sunlight a and plants which ripen fruits at least 5 hat a day. This is important. Vary from Last Year's Plan It is important to remember that pI diseases and insects are apt to thrive spot in which they have become establi For this reason those who make gar this year should take care not to place individual crops in the spot in which same crops grew last year. Varying t rangement of the garden in this way will r the danger from disease and insects. same vegetables in the same place each exhaust certain food elements, 2nd yields are sure to result. SURPLUS PRODUCTS At times, even with the best of a gardener will find that his g matured more of some varieties of 1 i than can be used immediately. No: excess should be wasted and occasion for waste. If there is market for the surplus it sh d b for winter by either cann di may be done with a financial THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 5 cold-pack method as small a quantity as a single can or jar may be put up in a short time. for the housewife to dry a handful of peas.or beans, sweet corn, a few sweet potatoes or turnips, or small quantities of many other vegetables with practically no expenditure of her time. Explicit and simple directions for canning and drying are given in the Manual issued by the National War Garden Com- mission. THE SOIL AND MANURES The back yard gardener-must use the soil he has, but he can improve it if it is poor, and he must do this as far as possible. Stable manure will help even the richest soil, and you are not likely to use too much of it. During a single season professional gardeners apply as much as six inches of it. From 400 to 600 pounds can be used to advantage on a plot 20 by 20 feet. Coarse manure should be applied and thoroughly plowed or spaded under in the fall. cs) manure is applied, before plowing or spading, __ preceding the planting of any crop. If the _ ground is fairly rich, and well-rotted manure is scarce, the manure may be scattered in the row only, and should be mixed into the soil before the planting of seed. Loam is the best garden soil. Sand, with manure, gives good results. Clay is hardest to work, but is greatly improved by well- rotted manure and vegetable matter—called humus. These should be well worked in _ with hoe and rake. Sifted coal ashes, en- _tirely free from clinkers, will help loosen up clay when mixed into it, but will not remove an acid condition nor increase fertility. Commercial Fertilizer Many gardeners experience difficulty in btaining supplies of well-rotted manure. such cases commercial fertilizers should used. Even where stable manure has secured and worked into the soil it is to supplement with moderate quantities quick-acting fertilizer in order to give ts an early start and hasten maturity. It is safest to rely upon the ready-mixed dware stores. Several specially prepared tures in convenient packages are now on market. For large areas, 100 to 200- bags may be obtained. A mixture ts } < cm , 4 With proper instructions it is possible | containing 3 to 4 per cent nitrogen and 8 to 10 per cent phosphoric acid is about right for the average garden. Your dealer will inform you on this point. If the fertilizer also con- tains potash, so much the better, but this year potash is scarce and high in price. Where no manure is used the fertilizer should be spread over the surface of the finely prepared seed-bed at the rate of 5 pounds for a plot 10 feet square, just before planting. The surface soil should then be thoroughly raked so as to mix the fertilizer evenly to a depth of 2 inches. Never place seed or trans- planted plants in direct contact with fertilizer. Thorough mixing of the fertilizer with the soil is essential to prevent injury of seed or roots. In the spring, fine, rotted Fig. 2—This shows the construction of an outdoor cold frame. Aree built in the same way, except that for the hotbed a pit and manure are required. Just’ See page 7 for directions for making cold frames and hotbeds. usually obtainable at seed and ~ A hotbed is Where manure has been worked into the soil, reduce the fertilizer application ap- proximately one-half. Tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, spinach and some other crops requiring rather long growing seasons, are materially benefited by a second application of fertilizer when half grown. Side dressings of this kind should be scattered between the rows at the rate of four ounces (one-half pint) to 10 feet of row, when rows are spaced 2 feet apart; and pro rata for rows spaced a greater or lesser distance. To insure even distribution mix the fertilizer with fine, dry earth just before spreading. Compost Compost is especially desirable when quick growth is wanted. Compost is thor- oughly rotted manure or organic material. It is prepared from six to twelve months before being used, by putting the manure and other material in piles having perpen- dicular sides and flat tops. These piles are usually from 2 to 4 feet high and 6 to 8 feet long. Besides the usual waste of garden rubbish, there is a large waste of leaves, weeds and the’skins and other unused portions of fruits and vegetables. These should all be thrown on the compost pile to decay for use on the 6 WAR GARDENING garden next spring. Destroy all plants which are diseased. The compost pile should be built up in alternate layers of vegetable refuse a foot thick and earth an inch or more thick. The earth helps to rot the vegetable matter when mixed with it. The top of the pile should be left flat that the rain may enter and help in the process of decay. If the pile can be forked over once a month when not frozen and the contents well mixed together, they will decay quite rapidly and be in good usable condition in the spring. The compost may be either spread over the garden and plowed under or it may be scat- tered in the rows before the seed are sown. This is, of course, not as rich as stable manure, but it is a good substitute. Compost is also used as a top dressing dur- ing the growing season for hastening growth. In the cities and towns tons of leaves are burned every fall. This is a loss which ought to be prevented. These leaves properly composted with other vegetable waste and earth would be worth hundreds of dollars to the gardens next spring. In planning a permanent garden, a space should be reserved near the hotbed or seed bed, and in this space should be piled, as soon as pulled, all plants which are free from diseases and insects. This applies to all vegetables and especially to peas and beans, as these belong to a group of plants which take nitrogen from the air, during growth, and store it in their roots. When these plants are decayed they will return to the soil not only much of the plant food taken from it during their growth but additional nitrogen as well. Nitrogen in the soil is necessary for satisfactory leaf growth. The material so composted should be allowed to decay throughout the winter, and when needed should be used according to the instructions given for using _ compost. The sweepings of pigeon lofts or chicken coops make valu- able fertilizer. When cleaning roosts from day to day add % as much acid phosphate as sweepings. When needed apply 1 pound of this mix- C ture to every 5 square feet of ground, mixing it thoroughly into the soil. i g ~ga rt § a I A Fig. 3—Tools most commonly eles jn a small Bagteue From lefi Trowel, weeder, spade, steel cgotbed! rake, une; garden fork, wate Prepared sheep manure, where procurable- at a reasonable price, is possibly the safest concentrated fertilizer. It should be used in small quantities rather than spread broad-— cast. Scatter it along the row before seed is sown or apply by mixing it with water in a — pail, stirring the mixture to the consistency of thin mush, and pouring it along the rows of the plants. Green Manure Green manure is useful as a fertilizer. It consists of green plants turned under by plowing or spading. Rye is the most satis-— factory for this purpose. If planted in Jul or August the crop may be turned under in the fall if early spring planting is desired. If planted later, it is usually turned under in the spring. When not turned under until spring, the growth will prevent the leaching of soluble plant food or the washing away of rich soil. 4 In sowing rye for this purpose, use at the rate of 1 pound of seed to a strip of ground 50 feet long and 10 feet wide. If the groun is rough or hard it should be cultivated just before the seed is sown, and then cultiva' again to cover the seed. Sow the seed tween the rows of crops not yet gathe Rye is very hardy and will sprout eve though there is frost nearly every night. a cost of about 5 cents for a pound of garden of 10 by 50 feet can thus be trea’ to an application of green manure. green rye plants soon decay when t under and answer the same purpose as a | dressing of manure. , Green manure, however, should not be upon to do the work of stable manur does not provide phosphorus or po Lime land. in lawns, is apt to be - remedy this conditior evenly 1 pound of —, lime or 2 pounds of gro \ stone to every 30 squ The lime should be a wood ashes may be used. Do not apply lime at the same time as manure or mixed fertilizers, as it will cause loss of nitrogen. As an addition to soil lime is of consider- able value. Besides correcting acidity it changes the physical structure of the soil. One of the elements of lime is calcium, which is required for plant growth. OUTDOOR HOTBEDS For early planting a hotbed may be made, located in a sheltered spot with southern exposure, where it will receive a generous supply of sun. A width of 6 feet is desirable, and the length should be such as will enable the use of standard 3 by 6 foot hotbed sash. A simple, boxlike frame, 12 inches high in the rear and 8 inches high in front, will hold the sash and give a better angle for the rays of the sun. Dig a pit 114 to 2 feet deep, the size of the sash frame to be used. Line the sides of this with boards or planks, brick or concrete, and make a tile drain, or place stones on the bottom of the pit, to carry off surplus water. This pit is to be filled with fresh horse manure. The manure will require special treatment before being placed in the pit. It should be thrown into a pile and allowed to heat. When it has heated and is steaming fork it over into a new pile, throwing the outside ” material into the center. When the new pile has become well heated fork the material once more into a new pile. This will require J from ten days to two weeks and is important ‘ in that it gets rid of excessive heat. After 4 this process fill the pit with the manure, packed down firmly and evenly, level with the surface of the surrounding earth. On *% top of this manure make a covering of good » garden loam 3 or 4 inches deep. a When the sash has been put in place the : manure will generate heat, in addition to the heat that will be derived from the sun. After this heat has reached its highest point and dropped back to between 80 and 90 degrees F. the seed should be planted. Use the best seed obtainable. Until the seed germinate the hotbed should be kept shaded to hold moisture. This can be done by spreading over the sash strips of old carpet, heavy cloth or newspapers. After germination strong light will be needed. The plants must be watered each morning on clear days, and the sash left partially open for ventilation, as it is necessary to dry the foliage to prevent mildew. ___Proper ventilation is essential to the pro- _ duction of strong, healthy plants. The sash _ should be raised during the warmest part of the day on the side opposite the direction »m which the wind is blowing. By opening THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 7 it in this way instead of facing the wind, the hotbed receives fresh air without receiving direct draft. On cold days raise the sash slightly three or four times a day for a few minutes only. In severe weather cover the beds with mats, straw or manure to keep in as much heat as possible. About two weeks before transplanting time the sash should be removed during the day to “harden” the plants. While in the hotbed the plants should be thoroughly watered, but the water should not reach the manure underneath. Early morning is the best time for water- ing, so that the plants will be dried before night. An outdoor hotbed of this character should be started in the early spring—February or March. THE COLD FRAME A cold frame is useful for hardening plants which have been started in the hotbed. It ‘is built like a hotbed, but without the pit or manure. It is built on the surface of the ground. Good, rich soil should be used and the soil kept slightly moist. In mild climates the cold frame may be used instead of a hot- bed for starting plants. It is also used in the fall and early winter for growing lettuce, radishes, carrots, parsley, etc. ] TOOLS Not many implements are required for home gardening. The essentials are a spade or a garden fork, a hoe, a rake with steel teeth, a trowel, a dibble or pointed stick, and a line such as is used by masons, or a piece of common string or cord, to stretch between two stakes for marking off rows. In the case of hard packed earth a pick is useful for dig- ging. For watering, a rubber hose is needed where pipe connections are available. Lack- ing this equipment a watering pot should be provided. A hand cultivator or wheel hoe is useful, especially in a large garden, and saves much time and labor in turning small furrows. With simple attachments it is used for stirring the soil and the removal of weeds. PREPARATION OF SOIL After the frost goes out test the ground by squeezing a handful of it. If it crumbles the soil is ready for spading. If it packs into a mud ball, the ground is still too wet and should not be worked. Spade deeply, 8 to 15 inches, unless this latter depth turns up poor soil and buries the richer soil of the top. Pulverize the dirt deeply with hoe, spade and rake, breaking all clods on the surface. If a lawn roller is available it is useful for crushing clods. All vegétable growth on the surface, such as grass 8 WAR GARDENING or weeds, should be turned under, to rot and enrich the soil. This is especially important with ground that has had a growth of turf. Fig. 4—Wheel hoe and hand cultivator, to be had with attachments such as plow, cultivator teeth, shovels and rake. A simple form may be made at home. SELECTION OF CROPS The home garden campaign for 1919 should be planned with a view to the production of the largest possible amount of food with the smallest possible outlay of seed and fertilizer. Authorities agree that the seed shortage is the worst the country has ever seen. The supply of fertilizers and natural manures is far below the normal. The demand for these materials is exceedingly great and war-time efficiency makes it vital that war-time conservation be practised in the use of them. To this end gardens should be devoted as far as possible to those crops which are most useful for food and in which the chances of failure are least to be feared. In the selection of vegetables for the home garden preference should be given to the staple crops such as potatoes, beans, tomatoes, corn, onions, and cabbage. Crops of next im- portance, such as peas, carrots, parsnips, beets, squash, greens, turnips, cauliflower, radishes and celery, should be grown if space in the garden permits. Fig. 5—Simple seed test, using platesand moist blotting paper or cloth. This is extremely useful. Cauliflower, muskmelons, watermelons, onions from seed, asparagus and cucumbers are some of the plants that are most difficult to raise and these are not recommended to the amateur gardener. | Ayn Ly are too old or’ have Soils vary so much that serious attention should be given to the crops suited to the individual garden. This is a local question. Consult your local war garden committee’s experts as to the best crops for your particular soil. Expert advice will prevent mistakes. In many communities, last year witnessed an over-production of some vegetables that had to be used during the growing season. Many gardeners had larger crops of. these than they could possibly use. Much waste resulted. To prevent this loss in seed, fer- tilizer, garden space, labor and foodstuffs every gardener should give especial atten- tion to the selection of crops. Plant spar- ingly of those things which must be used as - they mature and plant liberally of those things which may be saved for winter use by can- ning, drying or storing. Fig. 6—Use an envelope for sowing seed. The pictures shows seed already sown in some of the rows. PROCURE SEED EARLY Seed shortage was a handicap to many gardeners last year. In 1919 the planting of - gardens will be increased and the demand — for seed even greater than in 1918. It. is important, therefore, that the home gardener should procure his supply of seed early— well in advance of planting time. Be sure t patronize a reliable dealer, as quality is vit: Use Seed Sparingly Home gardeners often plant seed thi to make sure of a good stand. This is wasteful method, excepting with such ve; tables as will produce young plants may be used as greens. The better wa’ to plant according to the directions i the planting table. ‘ht The pronounced seed shareee this makes it imperative that no seed be waste information of the germinating seed. This test is useful as enab gardener to determine whether seed have been properly. cured. otherwise in good Sprgunce e been ke serene) conditions are THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OR)PEACH, 59 HOW MUCH SEED TO BUY The following amounts of seed will plant in each case a garden row 100 feet long. your rows and buy accordingly. Bee sttine DEANS. «2.05. c. ccc se acces 14 to 1 pint PMITIAGHCONS 1.1) sfeletars zee ss ose vg ovine 4g to 1 pint i pe rbeee UCR Re wales Poros Soke terculetis if ounce Cauliflower Des Se ee Vf ounce BRGMAGH ac pee /e cts wae ays 46 ounce eto liga pas | a ety eee ae a 2 ounces TCE MMRN SLED Mayne, 3h) shew ota 2 ty S, 0! cis eta's) ese ashe os Yo pint MEPS re tet efor ait tate att 5.72 occ aus-s, un gia hele ves 16 ounce PELTICTHEIOM (laipretsi sca cies ns blin s hasvteleee stele 14 ounce MURRIETA MASS 5 O50) Fas the: 8.5 a:¥, sib w Wapato arise 16 ounce 1 or 2 pecks of early potatoes and supply four persons. Measure Also compare your figures with planting table on page 23. Eggplant. amigas o4 Lamers ci e/aki eats ) ounce Kale, or Swiss chard. .... LSeyah aie 46 ounce Parsley. . erties coieeeee esas s M4 ounce Parsnip. . . 4% ounce Vegetable oy ster (salsify 5 16 ounce Onion sets (bulbs)....... .1 quart Onion seed..... Per re Rinaddees ister tess, L OUNCE HS Se URS odio ida eee se a 1 to 2 pints Racish "5. ticy.) (Vaan onan ti diese the tte gree, a,c 1 ounce SPIGA Gr Shey sicralnie ahd ctl gunn ote creer arse: 1 ounce Tomatoes..... Be he Sat Root ee SCOR Vg ounce PLRIEMID,. ca mules nares eta ae Mien ie Da eicvere ¢ ounce $ to 1 bushel of late potatoes are enough to plant to Fig. 7—-A paper band folded into the form of a berry _ box, without bottom, is a good holder for indoor seed : planting. The picture shows how these, are placed side by side in a flat box. To test plant 25 to 50 seed of each variety in an indoor seed box,-or place between moist blotters or cloth between two plates. (Fig. 5.) Germination should take place within 2 to 8 days and the number of seedlings which grow will show the percentage of germination. The seedlings should be kept for Planing ‘to prevent waste. j The standard adopted by the United es Department of Agriculture for seed rmination is as follows: a SHOULD PRODUCE 60 to 80 PER CENT: Celery, Parsley, Salsify, Eggplant, Parsnip. _ SHOULD PRODUCE 80 TO 85 PER CENT: er, Pepper. SHOULD PRODUCE 85 TO 90 PER CENT: Com (sweet), Lettuce, Squash, Cress, mato, Cucumber, Pumpkin. SHOULD PRODUCE 90 To 95 PER CENT: » Mustard, Turnip, Cabbage, Pea, Radish. INDOOR PLANTING rlier crops can be secured by planting in seed indoors and setting the young its out in the open garden after the ather becomes warm. This may be done matoes, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, and eggplant. wooden box, shallow and_ wide, an indoor garden. Put 1 inch ne cinders in the bottom for drain- il to the top with good soil. Rows two inches apart. Melon, _ Asparagus, Okra, Spinach, Carrot, Onion, Cauli- “ “the roots grew. Plant 8 or 10 seed to the inch, keep the soil damp, and set the box in a window. When the plants are an inch high trans- plant them to other seed boxes, spacing plants 2 inches apart. This insures sturdy plants with good root systems. Transplanting Before transplanting the plants to the garden set the box outdoors, in mild weather, to harden the plants. Set out each plant with a ball of the box dirt sticking to the roots. Thorough water- ing several hours be- fore transplanting causes the earth to & stick as required. If the root system is broken in the re- moval trim away some of the larger leaves of the plants. In moist ground open a hole. with trowel or dibble. ° Make the hole larger than is needed to hold the roots and a little deeper than Place roots in hole, and, with the hands, pack the soil firmly around the plant. In dry soil pour a pint of water into each hole before inserting plant. Rake some dry earth about the surface surrounding each plant to hold the moisture. Transplanted plants cannot dard strong sunshine at first and cloudy days or late afternoon are preferable for transplanting. In bright weather place newspapers over them for a day or two, making tents of the papers, in the shape of an inverted V. A homemade paper pot, a round, bottom- less paper band or a berry box, filled with soil Fig. 8—Transplanting to- mato plant from pot to garden. 10 WAR GARDENING should be used to produce plants for a hill of cucumbers, squash, melons or other “vining’’ plants which are started indoors, as these do not stand transplanting if the roots are disturbed. The pot or other holder may be set into the ground without disturbing the roots. Tomatoes, eggplants and beans may also be started in this way. Fig. 9—Seed box for starting ina indoors. WHEN TO PLANT When heavy frosts are over, plant early peas, onion sets and seed, early potatoes, kale, lettuce and spinach. All of these will stand light freezing except potato plants, which should be covered with dirt when frost threatens. When frosts are about over plant radishes, parsnips, carrots, beets, late peas and early sweet corn, and set out cabbage and cauli- flower plants. (An old and useful rule is o ‘plant corn when the oak leaves are the size of a squirrel’s ear.’’) When all frosts are over and apple trees are in bud, plant string beans and late sweet corn, and 7st out a few early tomato plants from the indoor boxes. When apple trees have fin- ished blossoming plant cucum- bers, melons, squashes, lima beans and set out the rest of the indoor plants. SEED BEDS Plants for second crops + may be raised in an outdoor seed bed occupying small space: These plants may be grown while the space allotted to them in the garden plan is still in-use for earlier crops. The rows of seed are not spaced so closely as in boxes used inside the house. If the plants crowd each other too much some of them may be re- moved and transplanted to another part of the garden. The seed bed plan is useful for such crops as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, late cabbage and the like. FALL PLANTING It is well to plant a fall garden of some crops, for in spite of the risk of injury by early frost the chances are in favor of satis- cultivate. Fig. 10—Straight. rows add to the non of the garden and are The simplest way to lay them off is to stretch’a two stakes and mark row with a hoe, hoe handle or stick. factory results. There can be no absolute rule as to the time of planting. The prob- — able time of the first frost in each locality — must be taken as a general guide. For ~ planting in August, and possibly even in — early September, the following vegetables — may be grown: When first frost may be expected between September 15 and September 25: = Multiplier — Lettuce, Spinach, Turnips, Parsley, Onions and Turnips. (Kale and Radishes may be risked.) When first frost may be expected between — September 20 and October 5: a Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Multiplier Onions, Rad’shes, Spinach and Turnips. Beets and Chard for greens. When first frost may be expected between October 5 and October 15: Beets for canning, Carrots, Kale, Multiplier Onions, — Spinach, Chard, Endive, Lettuce, Radishes and ~ Turnips. i E When first frost may be expected between October 15 and October 25: Any of the vegetables mentioned in the precede lists. (String beans may be risked.) % LAYING OFF ROWS i Straight rows add to the garden's beauty and make cultivation easier. To make the rows straight, stretch a stout string between stakes and follow it with the point of a hoe, with a wheel hoe, or with the end of ti handle of the rake or hoe, to open up the row. The plan is suggested in Fig. 10. line bi SUCCESSION OF CROPS — Nature generously provides for mor one crop on the same soil. Vegetabl reach maturity early in the season sho followed by later crops of the sami or by rotation of other kinds. O used green may be grown in rows - to be occupied by late tomato plan of the onions may be removed to p tomatoes. Radishes mature they are harvested the space cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE — it and other plants. Many combinations of this kind may be made to good advantage. Fig. 11—Beans planted at proper depth. FOR CONTINUOUS CROPS ej With some of the important vegetables a ' series of plantings is desirable. Of string beans, lettuce, radishes, spinach, sweet corn, peas, beets and carrots there should be several ’ successive plantings, two or b three weeks apart, to provide a fresh and continuous supply a all season. DEPTH OF PLANTING : Do not plant too deeply. ‘ig The old rule is to plant toa depth of 5 times the thickness of the seed. This, however, is not an absolute rule and is not safe in all cases. Consult planting- table on page 23 for depth. HOEING When the green rows ap- pear it is time to start hoeing or cultivating. Never hoe or cultivate deeply — an inch or two is deep enough— but stir the ground frequent- ly, and always after rain or once a week than to sprinkle every day Late afternoon is the best time to sprinkle. INCH Fig. 12—Lima beans, planted properly, with eyes down. To moisten the surface is not enough. There must be a thorough wetting. If pipe connections are available a garden hose is the best means of watering. One of the most satisfactory methods is to open small 9 furrows between rows and allow water to run into these trenches, raking the earth back into place several hours later and making a mulch, after the water has thor- oughly soaked in. The sprinkling pot will serve if hose is not available, but it 2 ismore laborious. Overhead sprinklers are very satis- factory. They consist of pipes mounted on supports extending the length of the area to be watered. Holes are drilled at intervals of 3 to 4 feet and small nozzles are inserted which yield a 4 spray-like misty rain when the water is turned on. By turning the pipes and also changing the position of them 5 it is possible to water an area of any size. watering, as soon as it is dry enough. The hoeing must not be done after rain or watering when the ground is still so wet as to cause the muddy earth to pack like cement, as this causes the Fig. 13—A small potato planted whole. The depth of planting here shown is approximately 414 inches to the center of the potato. This is the depth for late potatoes. Early po- tatoes are planted 2 inches nearer surface of ground. In home gardens proper drainage is often disregarded. Drainage improves the soil by allowing air to enter; by raising the temperature of the soil; by rendering the soil more porous and granu- earth to cake and dry out altogether too rapidly, which is undesirable. Frequent hoeing causes the formation of a dust layer which prevents the soil underneath from drying out. The garden should always _ be kept free from weeds, as these, if permitted to grow, consume plant food and moisture needed by the plants. WATERING A plentiful supply of moisture is essential. If there is not sufficient rainfall the moisture should be provided by watering the garden. _ In doing this it is better to soak the ground r lar; by enabling the roots of plants to grow deeply into the soil and by allowing earlier cultivation in the spring. Blind ditches, partly filled with stones or other material covered with soil, or open ditches, will be found satisfactory for the home garden. They should be along the lowest level of the garden, and have suitable outlet. Lacking an outlet, lay tile 12 inches below surface of garden, slanting toward a hole 10 feet deep and 5 feet across, in center of garden. Fill this, two thirds to top, with stones, covering stones with clay and covering the clay with loam 12 WAR GARDENING DIRECTIONS FOR VEGETABLE GROWING POTATOES / As one of the staple needs of the household Potatoes are entitled to special attention in Home Gardening and Community Gardening. In selecting for seed it is desirable to choose medium to large, smooth, shallow-eyed potatoes. The best seed will produce the best crop. Potatoes grow best in sandy loam or ina gravel loam. Heavy, sticky clay or loose sand is not ~ desirable soil. Potatoes should not.be grown in the same place in the garden in which they ~ were grown the previous year. A rotation of three or four years is desirable. Preparation of the soil should be done with care. The ground should be worked with # plow, spade and hoe, to a depth of 8 or 10 inches, and should be thoroughly broken up or pulverized, then thoroughly worked with a steel-toothed rake. This preparation is of great ry importance and should not be slighted. Attention to details is necessary to success. Mreag Seed far Stab varieties. The seed pieces should be 14 to — 18 inches apart in rows, the smaller the pieces su One of the most common diseases affecting the closer the planting. Fill the trench with seed potatoes is scab. This attacks the skin dirt, firming it in order that the moisture may of the potato, causing it to thicken, and giving be brought in contact with the seed pieces — it a scabby appearance. It is carried through to assist in the process of germination. the winter, in soil, in manure and on the po- Usually potatoes should not be planted as late as the first week in July very far North of the Mason and Dixon line except in sections where it is — known that they will matu before freezing weather arrives. Cultivation : As soon as the potato plants Fig. 14—Properly cut seed potatoes. Each piece has two goodeyes COMe up begin cultivating them. and is about the size of a hen’s egg. The cultivation should begin be fore they come up if a crust form tatoes themselves. To control this affection Cultivate or hoe every week during the it is important that potatoes should be ro- season, to keep the surface in good conditio tated with other crops as to location, and the | When the plants are young work the soil same soil not used for potatoes except at around them to support the plants. intervals of three or four years. A simple Potatoes are subject, to diseases and remedy, easily applied, is to soak the seed sects which are scheduled on page 21. potatoes before planting, in a solution of precautions to keep these from getting < Formalin and water. This solution is made start. Follow instructions as to sprayin . of 1 ounce of Formalin (40 per cent formalde- Bi! hyde), mixed in 2 gallons of water. In this mixture soak the uncut potatoes for two hours, and spread them out to dry. The solution can be used on as many lots of potatoes as desired. Seed potatoes should be spread out in a room.in which they will be exposed to strong light for two weeks before cutting, to start sprouts and detect poor seed. If large po- pit pasha ee i gopntuber sprouted ‘ tatoes are used cut them into: pieces weighing decrease yield. On the right is green sprou' from 1 to 2 ounces, each piece having at least inate © i pe two eyes. If potatoes are scarce and expen- ae sive the pieces may be cut to a single eye. Do not cut the seed until it is to be planted. Planting For planting, prepare trenches or furrows 4 from 3 to 5 inches deep and from 24 to 36 sh inches apart. Plant seed pieces 3 inches ; ‘deep for a potatoes and a hes fo , SWEET POTATOES Sweet potatoes are grown mostly in the Southern States or where there is warm, sandy soil, and are not especially recom- mended for the home garden. If space permits a few plants may be grown. If you wish to grow your own plants start a hotbed about six weeks before apple- blossom time. Place 5 or 6 inches of sand over the manure in the hotbed and lay down small, healthy sweet pota- toes, close together but not touch- ing. Cover them with one or two inches of sand; water occasionally | to keep slightly moist. Sprouts » will soon begin to grow and immediately send out roots into the sand. When these sprouts are four or more inches long they may be pulled from the potatoes and are rooted and ready to be planted. They need not be pulled, however, until time to plant them in the garden, when all danger of frost is past. They should be set 14 inches apart in rows 36 to 60 inches apart. If only a few plants are wanted they should be pur- chased from a seedsman, as the trouble involved in growing them in small quantities is too great to _make it worth while. On land which is not thoroughly drained the plants should be set on ridges and these should be made broad, as narrow ridges will dry out too rapidly. The ridges should be maintained dur- ing the entire growing season. Sweet potatoes should be dug: when the soil is dry and the weather bright, before there is danger of hard frosts. A spading _ fork may be used in digging them. Guard against bruising or injuring them in digging and_ handling. Let the roots lie out to dry for two Use strong plants two-years old, ch may be purchased from seedsmen. Set m 18 inches apart, in rows 3 feet apart. The rows should be 8 to 10 inches deep, with dth of 6 to 8 inches at bottom. After spreading out roots cover crowns with 2 inches of soil. With the growth -of the gradually fill in with, earth until with surface. Careful cultivation is d during the season. A small bed -manured will furnish plants for persons. Beans form a staple crop which may be most every climate. They need a h holds moisture, but is well t shallow cultivation must ey must be kept growing with- THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 13 out a check until harvested. Never cultivate while moisture is on vines. 3eans are susceptible to cold and for sure results they should not be planted until danger of frost is past. So little trouble is in- volved in bean planting, however, that it is a good plan to take a chance on making the first planting as soon as the ground-is reasonably warm. If the first planting should be killed by frost there is a good chance that the second will come up and that it will mature early. In this way a crop will be assured early enough to make it worth while to take the small risk involved in the possible loss of the early planting. Dry shell beans are planted and treated the same as string beans are planted and treated. The beans are allowed to mature in the pods. They should be thoroughly dried, shelled and stored as direct- ed for storage of seed on page 32. String and lima beans are grown alike. There are two sorts of each —low bush vines and bean vines D that climb poles. Pole beans are best for small gardens. Plant beans and bush limas 1 inch deep, 4 to 6 inches apart in rows. Make successive plantings every: ten days until hot weather. In late summer make successive plantings of string beans until eight weeks before the usual time of first frost. Plant pole beans and_ pole limas in hills 1 inch deep, 4 seeds to hill, hills 3 feet apart. Thin to 2 plants to the hill. Before plant- ing fix firmly in each hill a pole 5 to 6 feet long. If desired have two rows of hills and slant the poles so that each set of 4 may be tied together at the top like an Indian teepee. This prevents the or three hours after: digging. “wa y ANNO” ~~ poles from falling, but reduces the . Fig. 16—Lima bean vine yield of the vines. MOY Asparagus ig on pole. Help the vines to start twining around the poles from right to left. Note: Plant lima beans with the ‘‘eyes” of the seed downward. Beets Sow seed rather thickly in row, using I oz. to 50 feet, but thin the young plants by pulling until the survivors are 4 Dhes apart. The pulled plants make fine greens for cook- ing or canning. Brusseis Sprouts Grown like cabbage. Cabbage - Set plants from indoor seed boxes or pots 15 inches apart in rows, the rows be- ing 30 inches apart. Between these rows * 14 WAR GARDENING early lettuce, radishes, and other little crops may be planted. Early cabbage should be gathered as soon as it has formed solid heads. Late cabbage may be stored in trenches and covered with straw and earth. 0 1 2 2 IN. Fig. 17—Corn, planted properly, at depth of 2 inches. Carrots Sow seed % inch deep, using 14 ounce to 25 feet of row. Thin to 2 or 3 inches apart when roots crowd each other. Cauliflower Grown the same as cabbages, except when the heads form, the loose outer leaves should be tied together over the heads to keep out the light and bleach them. Celery Sow seed in seed boxes and set plants in garden in June or July, 6 inches apart, trenches 6 inches deep and 3 feet apart. Make the trenches 6 to 8 inches wide at the bottom so that rains will not wash the earth over the young plants. As the plants grow, cultivate the ground into the trenches. When plants are large heap earth around stalks to whiten them. Celeriac This is a large rooted form of celery. It is grown like celery, except that the plants do not need bleaching. The large root is cooked for use. The plants should be pro- tected in freezing weather by straw or mulch (half-rotted manure and straw), and dug when needed. ; Corn, Sweet Plant 5 or 6 seed 1 inch deep in hills 3 feet apart. When plants are 4 inches high pull out all but 2 or 3 plants in each hill. Make new plantings every 2 weeks until July or August so as to have corn for use during the entire season. Cucumbers Plant 8 to 10 seed 1 inch deep in hills 4 feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants per hill. Do not plant until soil is warm and frosts are over. Hoe or cultivate only until plants start to vine, then pull weeds by hand. Eggplant Little plants from seed boxes are set 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart. Endive In midsummer sow seed %4 inch deep and later thin plants to 8 inches apart. To blanch hearts raise leaves and tie together over heart. nay RRA oN i 4 Sei ere Kale _ Sow seed ¥%4 inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Thin the plants until they are from 6 to 8 inches apart in the rows. Kohlrabi Sow seed % inch deep and later thin plants to 4 or 6 inches. Lettuce Sow seed % inch deep in rows 1 foot apart and later thin out until plants are 5 to 6 inches apart. There should be successive plantings, but lettuce is not grown in ex- tremely hot weather. Sow seed the last of August and in September to be transplanted _ to the cold frame in October. Mint Roots may be procured from a seedsman_ or neighbor. Plant one or two clumps of these roots in a corner of garden in the spring. Muskmelons Grown like cucumbers except hjlls must be 6 feet apart. x Muskmelons are difficult to raise and — are not recommended to gardeners who are not experienced in their culture. Ba - tu A Sieh Fig. 18—Corn, planted properly in hill, at a depth 2 inches and with corner kernels 3 inches apart. Okra Sow seeds when corn and beans are bei planted.. Sow 1 inch deep a few inches apart in rows 3 to 5 feet apart. Thin plants to 18 or 24 inches apart. Until plants are almost grown cultivate frequently and not deeply. ae Pick young pods every day to keep bearing. . cn Onions ; Ae Onions will grow from seed or from bi called sets. It is better to use sets in h gardens. For early green onions plan THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE 15 es 3 inches apart in rows 1 foot or more apart. To grow from seed, plant the seed rather thickly 34 of an inch deep in rows and thin | them later until plants are 2 to 3 inches _ apart. If sets for planting next spring are desired, do not thin out any plants, but let ’ them crowd so they will remain small. Seed may be planted in seed box or seed bed and j when transplanted placed 3 inches apart. Parsley Sow seed thinly 1% inch deep, later thin- ning plants when they crowd each other. § Parsnips _~ Sow seed thinly 34 of an inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart and later thin plants to 3 inches apart. Peas An important factor in the successful raising of garden peas is that the smooth-seeded type are not easily damaged by light frost. Because of this they may be planted early in the spring —practically as soon as weather conditions _ permit preparation of the ground. They may _ be grown in almost any ordinary soil. The best soil is sandy loam, well drained, and rich with rotted manure. To give continuous supply throughout the growing season make successive plantings from one to two weeks apart. For the earliest crops select the smooth-seeded varieties of quick maturity. ‘These varieties require no supports. For later crops select the large, wrinkled varieties. 0 4IN. 19—Peas, planted properly, at depth of 4 inches. soon as plants break through the ground, tivate. Continue to do this three or four a week until the vines lop over. is should be planted in trenches 4 inches seed being covered with 2 to 3 inches ‘From 1 to 2 pints of seed will plant 100 feet of row. As the plants grow, grad- ually fill in the trench around them. Let the vines of the tall varieties grow up on brush or poultry wire. The rows of peas should be 3 to 4 feet apart, but if the space is small it is desir- able to plant double rows 1 foot apart, placing the brush between these rows. Peppers Set young plants from seed box 18 inches apart in row. Pepper plants are tender and should not be set out until the ground is warm. Potatoes For special in- structions on Irish and Sweet Potatoes see pages 12 and 13. Pumpkin Plant in hills 8 to 10 feet apart, using 8 to 10 seed to a hill. Plant seed 1 inch deep. Later thin to 2 or 3 plants to a hill. Fig. 20—A tomato plant should be tied with a strip of cloth, at a height of ten inches, again at about 18 inches and again at, about 26 inches. The plant here pictured is a good one from which to save seed. Radishes Planted and grown the same as carrots. CF Rhubarb Procure roots from a neighbor or dealer, as seed planting is not advised. Set them 3 to 4 feet apart, in rows or next to fence. Use manure freely. Salsify or Oyster Plant Also called vegetable oyster. Grown like carrots. Plants must be thinned to 3 inches apart. Spinach Sow seed thickly 1 inch deep in rows 12 to 18 inches apart, for both early spring and fall crops. Squash Grown the same as cucumbers or musk- melon, except that the hills of Hubbard squash should be 7 to 9 feet apart. Swiss Chard Sow seed % inch deep. Thin out when necessary. Tomatoes Tomatoes form one of the favorite crops of the home garden, as they will grow in all types of soil. Sandy loam, with plenty of humus, is ideal for growing tomatoes. 16 iv WAR GARDENING If plants are grown in seed flats, hotbeds or cold frames, follow the directions for transplanting given on pages 9 and 10. Plants suitable for setting out should be 4-6 inches high, having a thick stem and dark green leaves. Begin cultivation as soon as the plants are set. Cultivate deeply and close to plants at first but later cultiva- tion should be more shallow to prevent injury to roots. Cultivate frequently to keep the soil loose over the surface, so preventing evaporation. Always cultivate after a rain. When preparing seed flats, hotbeds, or cold frames for tomato seed, use soil which has never grown tomatoes. This insures plants free from disease. It is not advisable to plant tomatoes on land which has been planted the previous year with white potatoes, melons or tomatoes. To plant on such soil increases the danger from disease and pests. It is always advisable to train the plants to stakes or other supports. They miay be trained on wires or on poultry wire fastened on posts set about fifteen feet apart in rows. Barrel hoops a foot apart fastened to stakes eighteen inches apart are sometimes used. To tie plant to support, loop the string around the support and tie it under a leaf stem. Remove all side branches at the axil of the leaves as soon as they appear. Do not remove flower clusters. When the plant has reached a height of 5 feet cut off the top, DISEASE AND INSECT PREVENTION Every garden is subject to attack from insects and diseases. Your garden may not be attacked, but it is wise to take advance precautions. Spraying at occasional in- tervals from the time the plants have made their start until they are harvested is worth while. A hand sprayer should be used to distribute the necessary solutions on the plants. Such sprayers may be bought in various types. Some of them may be bought for a dollar or less and others range up to the neighborhood of $10 for the small, compressed air type. The simplest and cheapest type is the small atomizer sprayer with hand pump and with glass receptacle the small garden. $2.00, is highly efficient and costs from $5.00 to $10.00. One sprayer may be used by several gardeners, reducing the cost to each user. “to 50 feet of row, sowing them % inch deep, — The glass receptacle is better than metal. n In the center is a bucket sprayer which costs about $5.00. At the right isa eral families es Fe a When three or four clusters of fruit have — formed and some of the fruit isaslargeasa _ silver dollar prune the leaves at the base one half. This hastens ripening. Once a month apply a little commercial fertilizer or compost around each plant, — Avoid the use of fresh or unrotted manure as this produces too much leaf growth, the fruit does not set and disease is encouraged. Turnips , = For early spring, plant 34 ounce of seed - rows 1 foot or more apart. For fall crop — 14 ounce of seed to 50 feet of row, 4% inch — deep, or make the rows 8 to 10 inches wide and scatter seeds thinly in broad rows. Vegetable Marrow Plant 6 or 8 seed to a hill, one inch deep, — in hills 8 to 9 feet apart. ‘Thin to 2 plants to hill. Give the same care as for pump- — kins. The young and tender vegetable marrow may be baked whole like sweet — potatoes or may be sliced and fried like — eggplant, or boiled like summer squash. Watermelon - Plant 1 inch deep, 8 or 10 seed) to eac hill, the hills 10 feet apart. Later thin to 2 plants to each hill. or Watermelons require much room and a not recommended for small gardens. for holding mixture. (Figure 21.) Anothe type, costing a little more, is the bucket pu (Figure 21.) If you have no spray pum, Iles Fig. 2i—Some BF the best types of sprayer. At the left is a hand sprayer, which is one of the most s This sprayer can be bought for fro good substitute is the whisk broom, for spattering the spray on plants. After using, wash out pump and hose as some sprays will corrode metal and others wi!! rot hose. The ordinary sprinkling pot may be used to apply mixtures, but this is wasteful. Buy Spraying Materials Early Early purchase of spraying materials is important. The supply will be limited and the demand large. Make a list of the ma- terials you will need, with amounts, and place your order immediately. If you have equipment from last season place your order early for repair parts for pump, hose or nozzle, especially extra couplings and hose splicers for burst hose. If you delay until the spraying season arrives you are likely to fail to procure your supply. By “joining with friends or neighbors and buying in quantities you can procure materials at lower prices than if buying alone. For home mixing the poisons and chemicals required for sprays and other remedies and prevent- ives can be bought at a drug or seed store. The mixtures ready prepared can be bought at a seed store. Diseases The ordinary blights are usually overcome by spraying with Bor- deaux mixture, made as indicated Yn the next paragraph. There are some diseases, however, which cannot be overcome, and when _ trouble appears that does not yield to treatment the affected lants should be taken up and burned to event the spread of the infection to others. afflicted with rings. water-soaked. Bordeaux Mixture Lette). OO cidlu eno OSES O ne pane: 3. ounces ip Lime or Hydrated Lime.......... 3. ounces no Oe oar 8 Sct Spoor Omer 2% gallons ‘ make Bordeaux mixture procure the ients at a drug or seed store. If lump e is used it must be fresh. Instead of p lime some authorities prefer fresh hy- lime as being just as good and at the ame time much simpler to use, needing ‘to be stirred into the water. Hydrated e is lime to which enough water to dry- has been added by the manufac- is a powder and does not require making or holding Bordeaux mixture iners of wood, glass or earthenware. THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS OF PEACE Fig. 22—Potato blights and their effect. 17 phate in about one-half gallon of hot water and then dilute with enough cold water to make a total of 134 gallons; or wrap the copper sulphate in a smail piece of cheese- cloth, fill a quart jar with cold water and sus- pend the copper sulphate into the top of the water; in a couple of hours it will be dis- solved. In another vessel slake the lime and dilute it with enough water to make 114 gallons. If hydrated lime is used simply mix it with water. Then pour these two solutions together, pouring the solution of copper sulphate slowly into the mixture of lime and water, stirring vigorously while this process is under way. The stirring insures proper mixing of the two. Bordeaux mixture may be purchased in concentrated form from seedsmen, but the At the left are shown leaves early blight, indicated by brown spots with concentric At the right is shown Jate blight, with dark brown spots looking These pictures should help in detecting trouble. homemade mixture is better and cheaper. Do not make more at one-time than will be needed within a short time. The mixture is better and more effective if made fresh for each spraying. ‘ Sulphur For the control of mildew, pulverized sul- phur or flowers of sulphur, procured at a drug or seed store, is dusted full strength on- the diseased plants. A tin can with small holes punched in the bottom makes a good sifter for this purpose, or a cheap flour sifter may be used. The holes in a flour sifter are the proper size for this purpose. THE SUCKING INSECTS © For the destruction of insects which suck _ the sap of plants, such as the true bugs and the plant lice, or aphids, it is necessary to a ty 18 WAR GARDENING use a mixture which kills by contact or sub- stances which smother. Aphids, or plant lice, usually collect on the underside of leaves, causing them to crumple. This crumpling causes the edges of the leaves to turn down, protecting the aphids. Badly crumpled leaves should be picked and burned. In spraying be sure to apply the spray to the underside of the leaves. Otherwise the edges will serve as protection and prevent the spray from reaching the entire plant effectively. Nicotine Sulphate Solution To destroy the sucking insects use nico- tine sulphate solution, made as follows: Nicotine siulphater as cceh ecisicaietscteeicels 4% ounce Laundry or other soap.........- ews © 4% ounce WVALEK Heelore nic eicferele Waiebettopeicit vera telseeaa ie 2 gallons Dissolve the soap and then add this and the nicotine sulphate to, the water. Fig. 23— Bean anthracnose is indicated by dark sunken scab-like spotson pods. There are also spots on leaves, Bordeaux and Nicotine Sulphate Combination -A combination spray for plant diseases and sucking insects is made thus: Bordeaux mixture. . Nicotine sulphate. . Laundry or other soap 2 gallons 16 ounce ‘4 ounce THE EATING INSECTS The eating insects, or those which eat fruit — wh or foliage, may usually be killed by using a _ spray of poisonous solution or by dusting : them. The pests feed at nig poison powders on the plants attacked. Arsenate of lead, procured at a drug or seed store, is a favorite poison for this purpose, and may be used in spray or powder, but it must be handled with care as it is poisonous to human beings. It should never be applied to vegetables that are soon to be used, nor on cabbage or cauliflower after the heads have begun to form. Asan added precaution wash carefully all vegetables before using, whether they have been sprayed or not. Arsenate of Lead Solution Arsenate of lead spraying solution is made by mixing 1 ounce of arsenate of lead powder (or 2 ounces of paste) with 6 quarts of water. If the arsenate of lead is used in paste form instead of powder mix 2 ounces with 6 quarts of water. The powder is more easily weighed and handled. Keep the mixture well stirred while spraying, to insure even distribution. é To apply arsenate of lead in dry form mix 1 ounce of the powder with 3 pounds of air- slaked lime, dry road dust or ashes finely _ sifted. Use a sifter for dusting this onto the plants, while the plants are wet with dew or rain. Bordeaux-Arsenate of Lead Combination — Spraying with a combination of Bordeau mixture and arsenate of lead every two weeks is a wise safeguard against both disease and eating insects. To make this combinatior spray use Bordeaux mixture instead of water when preparing the arsenate of lead. By using a combination spray half the labor of spraying is saved. In spraying cabbage and cauliflower wi Bordeaux and arsenate of lead before heads form, a little soap mixed with t arsenate of lead will make it stick bett Shave the soap, add a small quantity of y and boil until the soap is dissolved or in cold water and stir occasionally unt solved. Cool and stir into the arsena lead solution. . Paris green has long been used for much more extensively and is co better. Poisoned Bait Poisoned bait is useful against cu and slugs. Small portions of the be placed around plants subject chips or other objects during the d should be placed beneath the: bait may be made at home =) White arsenic Cheap sirup. Water to The bran and the white arsenic and pour this over the bran and white arsenic. Stir well. Add enough water to make a thick mash. Liquid Poisoned Bait Sodium Arsenate Water Dissolve the sodium arsenate in boiling water and add the molasses. Flavor by add- ing chopped pieces of vegetable of the kind which is to be sprayed. Apply with a whisk 4 3 eco | Removing Insects by Hand The larger eating insects may be removed by hand or knocked off into a pan of water 4 An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure in the matter of controlling diseases and insects. Clean garden soil aids in keep- ing out insects.,and disease. All plants purchased should be healthy and free from _ disease. The roots should not be swollen or knotted. Treat Irish potatoes for scab before planting. Do not plant cabbage having clubroot or sweet potatoes affected with black-rot. : Many insects carry disease and spores from one plant to another as well as attack- ng the crops directly. _ Avoid wounding or bruising plants and vegetables when cultivating and harvesting em, to prevent certain insects from gaining access to them. » _ Have order, neatness and cleanliness in he garden. In the fall turn under promptly, l_vegetation so that insects and disease res may not find winter BUS ieeTSs acter that it will not decay and is there- e not useful in making compost. This ludes trash, sticks and the like. It may m like a waste of vegetable matter to n the dead tomato vines, bean vines and plant tops which have been diseased, t this should be done because to save or mpost these for fertilizer would simply be aturing and saving millions of disease which would be on hand ready to < the crops next year. More than this, garden appeals to the eye and to the f the owner as a winter landscape. n stalks, cabbage leaves and stumps, ps if Cee canned, and other healthy : Id be saved for mulching or be the ompost heap. THE SEEDS OF VICTORY INSURE THE FRUITS should be mixed. Dilute the sirup with a little water Keep . OF PEACE 19 on the surface of which a small quantity of kerosene is floating. Insects collected by hand should be destroyed immediately. For slugs and snails sprinkle any form olf lime plants and around where they occur, over Some Other Forms of Protection One form of protection againet cutworms is a collar 2 inches wide made of stiff paper, placed around the stem of the plant and with its lower edge inserted in the ground, to prevent the pests from reaching both stem and upper part of root. Small frames covered with mosquito net-. ting or cheesecloth set over young piants will protect them. GUARD AGAINST DISEASES AND INSECTS, The remnants of vegetable matter, which are not infected with disease or insects, should be made into compost heaps for the and covered pe stable coming year ma- Fig. 24—Emphasizing the importance of spraying. On the left is a potato plant which was not sprayed. The ravages of the potato bug are plainly shown. On the right is a plant which was properly sprayed as a pre- ventive measure. nure and dirt to hasten decay, as decayed vegetable matter enriches the sotl. (Direc- tions for making a compost heap are given on page 5). Plowing or deep spading in the fall is important, as it breaks up the winter homes of underground insect pests. Rotation of crops also lessens the danger of attacks from insects and diseases. TAKE NO CHANCES Too much emphasis cannot be placed on the need for taking precautions against diseases and insects. Familiar- ize yourself with such diseases and insects as prevail in your neighborhood Then provide yourself in advance with remedies and equipment. Watch care- fully for first signs of trouble and apply remedies at once. Inspect your garden every two or three days. on the crops you plan to raise. 20 ‘as'soonas they appear. ASPARAGUS Rust—(Rusty appearance of leaves and stems).— Procure rust resistant variety, such as Reading Giant or Palmetto. BEETS Leaf spot—(Reddish and purple spots, turning ashy gray).—Usually not affecting garden beets. Remedy: Spray with Bordeaux mixture when plants are 3 to 4 inches high, repeating 2 and 4 weeks later. Web worm—(Eats the leaves). Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when worms appear; repeat when necessary. BUSH BEANS Anthracnose—(Dark, sunken spots, scab-like, on pods; spots on leaves).—Pick and burn diseased pods. In saving seed discard those from diseased plants, as seed carry the infection. Leaf beetles—(Very small, dark or pale stripes; eat leaves). Remedy: Spray with arsenate of lead when pests appear, repeat in 10 days and later if neces- sary. Bordeaux mixture repels but does not kill. CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER Club root—(Root swells and decays).—Pull up and burn plants. Preventive: In spring apply 1 lb. lime to each 8 sq. ft. of ground before setting out plants. Black rot—(Leaves turn yellow, then brown and black and decay. Pull up and burn plants.) Preventive: Soak seed 15 minutes in solution made of 4 oz. formalin and 3 pints water; rinse in clean water; plant at once. Yellows—(Leaves turn yellow, then brown, and drop). Pull up and burn plants. Preventive: Treat seed as for black rot. Cabbage worms—(Eat leaves). Remedy: When worms appear spray with arsenate of lead, repeating if necessary ore heads form. Add an ounce of laundry soap per gallon of spray to make it stick to the leaves. not use arsenate of lead later than 3 weeks before using or marketing cabbage. Aphids or lice—(Suck sap from leaves). Remedy: Spray with nicotine sulphate solu- tion when pests appear; repeat if necessary. Cabbage looper—(Eats leaves). — emedy: Treat as for cabbage worms. CELERY AND CELERIAC _ Blight aud spot—(Gray or brown spots, drooping stems). ‘ Remedy: Spray young seedlings, in seed box or’ seed bed, with Bordeaux mixture. Spray again as soon as set in garden, repeating 10 to ' 14 days later. Repeat again if Dees Spray- ing in seed bed must not be neglected if disease appears. ’ Bari SWISS CHARD i ev Leaf spt Ts tag vase No b Tied lemees yaaa before usitig, PF af ofa 7 WAR GARDENING & PREVENTIVES AND REMEDIES NOTE: of the in containers made airtight by lining bot- tom and sides with several thicknesses of newspaper and covering the top snugly: in the same manner. The temperature of a cellar storage room for potatoes should be carefully controlled Fig. 8—A barrel can be made into a good storage pit for cabbage, turnips, potatoes etc. Barrel is placed on its side and covered with straw and dirt. to prevent wide fluctuations. A constant . temperature around 40 degrees F. is desir- able. It should not be allowed to go below 32 degrees or above 50 degrees. Potatoes should not be washed before storage. If they begin sprouting in the spring all the shoots should be rubbed off. The bins should be examined occasionally and any rotting potatoes removed to pre- vent the spread of infection. > - Bins Do not have one large bin for potatoes, ‘as those in the center will be subjected to too high temperature, which will cause all of them to go through a sweating process. _ Too large a bin makes good ventilation im- DP posible Open bins, not more than a foot _- deep, arranged as a shelf, as shown in Fig. 3, are excellent for cellar storage. Another good arrangement of shelf storage for certain _ crops is shown in Fig. 4. Pits A small. pit provided with ventilation, as shown in Fig. 5, is the most satisfactory. 't is better to have several small pits than ne large one, as the entire contents must be moved when a pit is Spend: Place not SWEET POTATOES storing sweet potatoes the important t be well matured before they are dug; mperature. A test for maturity is to - bri ak a sweet potato and expose it to for a few minutes. If the surface of ae oe handled with extreme care; they’ yr break dries t the Eat ma a con- STORE YOUR SURPLUS FOR WINTER 29 but if moisture remains on the surface it is not properly ripe. In sections where frosts come early digging should take place about the time the first frost is ex- pected, without regard to maturity. Care in handling is necessary to prevent bruising and subsequent decay. Curing is done by keeping them at an even temperature of 80 to 85 degrees F. for a week or ten days after har- vesting, to dry off the moisture. The room in which this must be ventilated in order that the moisture-laden air may escape. sidered mature, is done For storing sweet potatoes on a large scale a specially constructed house is de- sirable. For home storage the roots may be kept near the furnace in the cellar or near the furnace chimney in a vacant up- stairs room or in the attic. The room should be kept fairly warm. After curing the temperature should be maintained around 55 degrees F. Care should be taken not to store sweet potatoes which are infested with the sweet potato weevil or root-weevil, one of the most serious pests of the Gulf region. This pest practically confines itself to destruc- tion of the tubers after harvesting. When the tubers are found infested they should be fumigated with carbon disulphid, to be procured at a drug store. Place the tubers in a box or obhies container which can be tightly closed. The carbon disulphid is a liquid which gives off fumes heavier than air, and one ounce per bushel should be placed in an open dish on top of the roots and the container closed. Do not allow open lights or fire in the presence of this All badly gas as it is highly explosive. affected roots should be burned. Fig. 9—This shows celery set into an uikdeae pit or trench for storage. Boards should be placed along the edges of the pit or trench and dirt banked against these boards. The tops of the celery should be covered with corn fodder, straw or similar covering. The celery may be removed easily at any time. APPLES Apple storage is simple and is desirable not only for those who grow their own — apples but also for those who depend — on the market for their supply. The one es-— sential is that the fruit be kept in a cool, 30 HOME STORAGE—SEED SAVING dry place, and so stored as to be in no danger of absorbing odors from vegetables stored nearby. Families raising no apples, but having a good storage place, meeting the require- ments as to temperature, will find it advan- tageous to buy a winter's supply in the fall, when prices are low. The cost of pur- chases thus made will be considerably less than if apples are bought as needed during the winter. To store, sort apples carefully, removing and using at once all fruit which is bruised or shows signs of decay. The best results are secured by wrapping each apple in half a sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates or bins. The wrapping pre- vents the apples from touching each other and thus prevents the spread of decay which may start. It also protects the apples from odors if vegetables are stored nearby. Apples absorb odors freely from potatoes, onions, turnips and other vegetables and should never be stored, unwrapped, in the same room with vegetables of any kind. In addition to wrap- SAVE NEXT YEAR’S SEED FROM THIS YEAR’S GARDEN Owners of gardens will find that the saving of seed from this year’s gardens will be of great help for next year’s planting. While it is more satisfactory, ordinarily, to purchase seed from reliable dealers the increased planting of home gardens, the poor crop of seed, the decrease of foreign importation, the exporting of certain seed to Europe and the use of certain kinds for food have caused a short- age and, as an emergency measure, each gardener should save as much séed as possible. Saving of seed is easily done, though it requires care and attention. In saving seed select them from plants of a single variety grown by itself if possible, rather than from plants where more than one variety have been planted. Where there are two or more varieties of the same _ vegetable growing side by side, cross fertilization takes place and standard seed cannot be obtained. It is well to learn all the features which make up the most desirable type of variety of vegetable from which seed is to be saved. Seed saved where it is grown has yy sar 4 a 3 39) Fig. 10—In selecting corn to be saved for seed, choose the most perfect ears, one year are: Abs ping the individual apples it is desirable to line the barrel or other container with a half inch thickness of newspapers, on the bottom and sides, and then cover the top with news- papers and either nail a cover on or tie the papers securely with strings. This will keep odors out. The lining and covering give full protection and make it possible to store apples in the general cellar storage room. Remember that the cellar or other place in which they are stored must be cool. A temperature of 32 degrees F. is ideal, and the temperature should not be allowed to go above 40 degrees if it can be held this*low. Apples may be stored unwrapped in bar- rels, boxes, crates or bins if proper atten- tion is paid to sorting, to providing a cool place for storage and to occasional sort- ing during the winter, for the removal of possible decayed fruit. If any of the fruit in any container is found to have begun to decay all the apples in all the containers should be sorted at once and decaying fruit removed. Apples stored unwrapped must not be kept in the room with vegetables. two advantages. For one thing more careful _ selection can be given than is possible for all seed placed on the market. Another advan- tage is that plants from this seed will succeed — best under local conditions. Select seed plants which are free from disease, which show a.vigorous growth, a good yield and quality, and mature earl Mark selected plants with string. Plan selected for seed should be given especial! careful cultivation and ; every effort should be made to promote their full development. When secd is ripe harvest with care. Seed properly stored, with the exception of parsnip and onion, should retain vitality from 2 to 5 years. Thus enough seed may be saved from a good crop to tide over the poor years. SEED MATURING IN ONE YEAR Some of the seed de- sirable for saving be- cause they mature in BraNs—Select the best plant: pods mature. Pull up plants | SAVE THIS YEAR’S SEED FOR NEXT YEAR’S GARDEN 31 the early morning, to prevent shattering. Place plants in a dry, well aired place until seed are hard. Shell and spread in a layer until dry. SWEET CorNn—Select the ears just at _ maturity and while on plants, as plant must be considered as well as the ear. ‘The plant should be free from disease and preferably have two or more good ears to the stalk. The distance between joints should be short and _ the ears set on short, strong shanks. Ears _ should be nearly cylindrical and should taper j but slightly from butts to tips. They should be well filled out, with husks tightly folded over ears. Pick ears from plants maturing atnearly the same time, uniform in size, strong and well rooted. Me- dium sized ears are best. When fully ma- ture strip down husks and string up 10-15 ears in a dry shady place so as to dry out ears quickly. CUCUMBERS AND SUMMER SQuUASH— - Select desirable fruits when in the usable stage. Allow them to remain on vines until ripe, as indicated by change of color or hardening of surface. Remove the seed from the ripe fruit and wash free of pulp. Spread in a thin layer in the sunshine to dry, stirring 3 frequently. A quart or less should dry satisfactorily in a day. GPLANT—When fruit is opened for ig. 12 — To remove els when prepar- to plant or to test msert knife be- \ rows and pry deways. ripening does not occur during the weather. With heading varieties it ‘be necessary to cut across the tops e heads to allow the seed stalks to through. When seed heads turn white riety should not be substituted ’ duce the yigor. for early variety if the crop is to be harvested early. Early varieties cannot be substituted for late varieties as they are not as productive. Seed potatoes should be kept dormant in a The dark, cool place until planting time. production — of long sprouts, or wilting, will re- Rub off the long sprouts before the potatoes are planted. RADISHES— Select the finest roots and cut off all but a few central leaves. s. ; > : ‘ fig. 13— Hubbard squash. A Put the roots)in good type winter squash for a moist, airy _ seed. place for a short time and then plant them with the crown an inch below the surface. When seed ripen, cut plants and lay on paper exposed in the sun. When the outside covering is dry, then rub out seed, dry and store. Tomators—Gather fruit from _ selected plants when a little over ripe, but not de- cayed. The seed may be freed by one of two methods. One of these is. to crush the fruit, and force through a sieve, and then put the seed in a coarse cloth and press out pulp under water. Another method is to crush fruit, put in a container and allow to ferment for two or three days, _ stirring once in a while. The seed settle and the pulp which rises may he poured off. Wash the seed in clear water and dry. Fig. 14—Seeding plants of onion in blos- som. They should be staked. _ Winter Squash, Pumpkin, Muskmelon, Watermelon When fruit is opened for food, select the best formed seed, wash and dry. SEED MATURING IN TWO YEARS Such vegetables as beets, carrots, parsnip, salsify, cabbage, etc., which require one season in which to grow will produce seed in the second year. Seeds of beets, carrots, cauli- flower, turnips and late radishes are not often grown satisfactorily in the home garden. 32 SEED SAVING They must be carefully stored during the winter, Root crops of late planting are most satisfactory for seed. Select those of the best shape, color and size. Cut off all but an inch or two of the leaf stems and store in a frost proof pit or cellar. ' If a cellar is used protect the roots from withering by putting them in sand, fine soil or sifted coal ashes. They should be kept very slightly moist. Do not store them in a heated cellar. CapBaGE—In the fall select the best heads, pull up entire plants and store them in a trench. Next spring set out two or more plants as one plant alone rarely produces seed. It may be necessary to cut the head across the top to allow the seed stalk to develop. When the seed pods turn yellow cut off the stalk and lay it on paper in a cool shady place to dry; early morning is the best time to gather. Rub out the seed when the pod is dry. Do not grow kale, collards, cabbage or kohlrabi—any two of them—in the same garden, as they will cross-fertilize. On1oNs—Seed bearing bulbs should be well rooted. In the fall plant them 3 inches deep. As cold weather approaches cover with earth to protect them from freezing. In the spring remove the ridges. The seed stalks should be supported with stakes. When most of the seed is ripe cut out the seed stalks, dry in the sunshine and rub out the seed. ParsNrps—These may be left in the ground all winter. In the spring plant selected roots 3 to 5 feet apart in row. When seed are ripe cut seed stalk and dry. STORAGE OF SEED Put heavy seed, such as beans and peas, in cloth bags; smaller seed in paper bags or envelopes. Label each bag carefully, inside and out, as to contents. To protect seed from mice put the bags: in perforated tin boxes. A bread box makes an ideal storage place for seed. An upstairs room or attic room, provided it is not warm, is a very good place in which to store seed. The room must be dry and well ventilated to prevent molding. Stored seed should be occasionally ex- amined for insects. If insects or weevils are present fumigate with carbon bisulphid, a producing a gas liquid which vaporizes, heavier than air. To fumigate, place the seed in an air-tight receptacle and pour the carbon bisulphid over the seed. Open to air in from 24 to 36 hours. Use an ounce of carbon bisulphid to a bushel of seed. Car- bon bisulphid is very inflammable and fire or flame must not be taken near the fumi-— x gating receptacle. Disregard of this precau- tion will result in an explosion. This manual was prepared by the Commission’s experts and is based on thei own research and experience, supplemented by information procured from the ‘United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Colleges, Experiment Stations, and other sources. The National War Garden Commission, wishing to do all within its pow to aid the War Intustries Board in the very necessary economy in the use of pape! has limited the edition of this book and asks those who receive it in quantit make the most careful distribution so that the book may reach the han IF THE INDIVIDUAL RECIPIENT CAN USE THIS BOOK IT IS URGED THAT IT BE HANDED TO SOME ONE ° none but those who will use it. WILL USE IT. Page Coli 'frameland Hathed\h ceases renders sank: 7 Community gardening........ Bete Community storage......... Gultivationat..-co-ccnesas ene DISEASES AND INSECTS FERTILIZERS— Gomitttercia i trans cps c-cietea seis se abrdielh hte wh viebols biafe 5 Compost . 5 Green manure 6 INDOOR PLANTING 9 PLANTING— UY COntIMNOUSICrONS: hens cphs cose anes rsd wc eas,4 Fallierope., Pct tanveccc Succession of crops...... Table for planting... . Time of planting........:...-+-+ 7 TABLE OF CONTENTS POTATOES, SWEET — Growing... ated so0,6u te dee ee Stordgel.. csd.cs sc stan pean AG SEED— Quantity to buy .........0...00 Sang ; Saving for next year... ve Testing before planting . SPRAYING.... f rie Reet wd ns bi : . ei a3 a UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION Mobile, Alabama. September 6th, 1918. MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary, National War Garden Commission, WASHINGTON, D.C. Dear Mr. Ridsdale: I desire to tender my sincere thanks for the books which you have furnished for distribution and use among the war gardeners of Mobile, and as encourage- ment and assistance to others to take up this splendid work conducive not only to increased supply of food products, but to the health and happiness of those who wisely give Mother Earth the attention which just at this time she all the more richly deserves. It is needless for me to assure you that the books have been extremely helpful. I consider them the most complete and serviceable ever produced; and excepting only the family Bible, the foundation of all ethics and morality as well as the common law, these books are of more vital importance to every house- holder, in fact, good citizens throughout the land, than most printed matter obtainable. “Your books on canning and drying are likewise of inestimable value, and your splendid co-operation in the common cause of increasing and conserving the food supply in our present crisis meets with the heartiest appreciation. Very sincerely, (Signed) HENRY A. FORCHHEIMER, Federal Food Administration Board. UNITED STATES FOOD ADMINISTRATION Davenport, Iowa. September 5, 1918. MR. P. S. RIDSDALE, Secretary, National War Garden Commission, WASHINGTON, D.C. My dear Mr. Ridsdale: ‘ We have found your publications of great value in our work in this State and it gives me pleasure to thank you for your prompt and cordial compliance with all of our requests. Your book on War Vegetable Gardening and the one devoted to Canning and Drying are filled with information of great value to the gardener and housewife. It has been a source of great satisfaction to us to be able to distribute your books in every County in Iowa and we have used care to place them in the hands of people who need them and who are constantly calling for just the information _ contained in them. We feel that your co-operation has been of great importance. Faithfully yours, (Signed) M. L. PARKER, State Merchant Representative, Iowa Food Administration. == WAU 0 022 264 969 9 wae Ges Oy Le After J. N. Baie in New York Tribune. NATIONAL WAR GARDEN COMMISSION A Patriotic Organization Affiliated with the Conservation Department of the American Forestry Association WASHINGTON, D.C. CHARLES LATHROP Pack, President. PERCIVAL S. RIDSDALE, Secretary. Norman C, McLoup, Associate Secretary. LuTHER BuRBANK, Calif. Dr. JOHN Grier Hiseen, N. J. Dr. CHARLES W. ExrotT, Mass. EMERSON McMILLr, N. Y. Dr. IrviING FISHER, Conn. CHARLES LATHROP Pack, N. J. FRED H. Gorr, Ohio A. W. SHaAw, IIl. Joun Hays Hammonp, Mass. Mrs. JoHN DICKINSON SHERMAN, III. FarrFAX Harrison, Va. Capt. J. B. WaITE, Mo. Hon. Myron T. Herrick, Ohio. Hon. JAMEs WI son, Iowa. P. P, CLaxton, U. S. Commissioner of Education.