=. SY 4 PEE Ses fee ee. ee tae a ot*2 Evy ae - “ : ow ur ces ‘' Dea got aa . — Te ts RAG a IANA A WA AN ave “Ale MV an; AARON R An rnnniinnnnnnnQnnnnnnn a: \ ARAN. A AW AA BARARANAAARan Anna \ Ar aa An nANp ANAS AAMAAAANA nannnntn nnn ANN ; oe AAR nhinnhnArRnan nanan AAnAna AARAA A NA onl DNA Xf A A AAR Al A AARA A | * AasdaAaaaMaaen eAANANANAA Nannannt INN ANA AA RARAAA \A\r ot a E\ES TAA MATA MAN Ae a= ~ PF. j BABADRAAR AS Rp P cnananaananee va) DA AR AA \A\ Al \f A A! A i AR RAR. AL Wanda WANARA ANALY ARAAaAAR RA aahannnaners AA A AAA AANAAA AAA LA AA. 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WALCHER, Somerset, Kansas, { / pal’ WS a fe / ; ”, : ; ; ; i “ Stat Wy aw fa > - Cf RALAHG AT fea & A TREATISE ON THE GROWTH AND OULTIVATION OF Cane AND MANUFACTURE OF SYRUP, WITH OTH- ER VALUABLE INFORMATION, Recrpss, Hire., Ere. = PaoLa, Kansas: MIAMI REPUBLICAN PRINT. 1878. SS ena Te ea Aang aptiy ar Sea oe AR ees Be etd y ia Hie .- r ’ ‘ elope Co Sy ella ‘ * ; € ‘ ’ Tas : WesTeRN GANE GROWERS ILANUAL BY a here CET ER: j4 Soxuerser. KANSAS, A Treatise ON THE GROWTH AND CULTIVATION OF CaANb AND MANUFACTURE OF SYRUP, WITH OTH- grr VALUABLE INFORMATION, Reorpers, Hre., Exc. - Paoua, KANSAS: : MIAMI REPUBLICAN PRINT. 1878. pp ' I Entered According to Act of Congress in the year 1878, by S. H. Walcher, in the office of the Librarian of Congress. PREFACE. In offering these few crude pages to the public, I den’t expect to weary your patience with flourishes or style. Lam simply trying to put together facts of experience which have come under my observation, in order to as- sist those who wish information; so as to make the cane growing and manufacturing of syrup profitable to all. Yours &e., S. M. WALCHEB. INTRODUCTION. The growth of cane in this latitude is no more an ex- periment. All oyer the United States, except the extreme North,the sugar cane has proyen to be a success and leaves a good profit when properly handled. It is true to some extent that the growth, cultivation and manufacture of this is but verv little understood by a great many, but the inventive genus of man in this age seems to be capable for almost anything, and what ever project is put on foot, seldom stops short of perfection. The introduction of this valuable plant has saved mil- lions of dollars to the American people in the last tew years. ‘Take away this luxury of home production if you please and imagine what the result would be. We see daily that home made syrup is being used more and more, and as the quality is improved the market will become better, and the cheap adulterated stuff which is shipped here and sold at an enormous profit will cease coming. Eyery couatity aud state should produce its own wants as near as possible, then you would see prosperity. The farmer should know just as well how to produce a good syrup as a good animal or a good crop of corn. With what practical knowledge every one posseses on this and similar subjects, if they will study these pages care- fully, they will undoubtedly be greatly benefitted and suc- cess will crown their efforts. I have seen syrup made from Luphee cane, that could not be told from honey only by comparing them. I made last fall a No. 1 article of honey syrup from all the pure Imphee African Cane Tf inanufactured,and if the cane had been produced just right the quantity would have been greatly increased. No wonder we see a disposition to run down and discredit the use of home made sorghum (this is the common phrase.) -We must produce a Ne. | article, one that will keep away importation, and itcan be done to a greater extent than now. By so doing we will add wealth to our community and strengthen the bonds of union. Llook to the future for the promotion of truth and righteousness over the most serious obstacles. Belieying tirmly these results will be attained, I cheerfully lend my feeble efforts to the public to assist in their advancement. TREATISE ON CANE. After years of study and practical experience, 1 have to some extent been successful In coudensing a few facts which I think without a deubt will be found of great value to those who anticipate growing or manufacturing syrup, either for home use or the market. I have been successtul also in inventing a New Pan or Evaporator which is seamless and out of the best metal for that purpose, which will do the work of the most costly, making a honey syrup if directions are properly followed. Good seed is the first thing. Aclimated seed is the best, providing itis pure. The head must stand erect and close, and show no broom-corn appearance ; examine the stalk and see whether itis red inside; if it is, it shows mixture. Next taste and seeifit has a good degree of sweetness. [t must taste sweet and not watery. Then it should have been grown on red clay, white or up Jand that is sandy, if possible. Seed trom black muck or new sod land, shows a low degree of sweetness, and should be avoided. Find out the quality of syrup it produced the previous year, and the soil it was grown on. Then again, you must get well matured seed. ‘The above facts are the foundation of good syrup, and without it you cannot ex- pect to succeed. THE BEST VARIETY. Every oue has their opinion on this subject. The 10st profitable cane for this section of country at present is the Imphee African or Short Red Top, it being a strong (6) grower and seldom blows down, and if properly grown and handled will produce 2 fine honey syrup, which can’t be beat. The Short Red Top or Imphee African I haye known for three years, and am satisfied it is the purest in this section of the country at present. The Agricultura] Department would do a great favor, if they would distrib- ute more thouroughly pure seed of the best varieties, every few years, and those who areso lucky as to receive seed, should take good care and keep it pure, so as to furnish his neighbors. The limited quantity of seed which I have, will be distributed to my customers for the spring of 1878. I expect to plant of the same seed. There are other varieties of cane If taey could be found pure, which no doubt produce as much or more in quanti- fy, but not so good in quality. A great many prefer the tall black top. They say it produces more, what if it does? if won’t produce as fine a syrup, and it is far the most troublesome to strip, handle and get to the mill, especially if it falls or lodges, which is often the case, and if it should pot be ripe when it falls, and the latter part of the summer is wet, aud it throws out roots, the crop isas good as lost, for it can’t make anything but dark molasses at an extra expense. The aboveis what many have found to be the result. | THE BEST SOIL. Never plant cane on black muck or cold heavy wet land, new Jand just broken up isnot good. There should be atleast one crop grown on it preyious to a cane crop. Old land is always the best. Red white clay or ashey land is good, land which has plenty of sand in is good, providing itis not wet. Black Jand that is dry, warm and sandy or fullof rockis generally good. As a general rule: Plant your thin land in cane, it will produce more dollars than corn. If your thin land is wet, plow it up in narrow lands and get it dry, and it will pay you big in (7) cane. . Fresh manured land won’t grow cane that will pro- duce good syrup. White or ashey timber land is good. Almost any land except new, wet or black muck, will pro- duce nine times out of ten a fine syrup, providing you plant Imphee and proplerly handle it all the way through, and I believe this rule will hold good in almost any state. A great many seem to think that the larger the stalk the bet- ter and the more it will produce, but this experience has taught to be an error, a medium size stalk is the best, and if you can grow every stalk exactly the same size al] the better. Green and ripe cane mixed will not produce as good asyrup. Hence drilling will be found best, not only for this reason but manv others as we advance. PREPARATION OF SOIL. Fall plowing is best, plow deep and drain thorough- ly. If vou have well rotted manure and can plow it in in the fall the effects won’t be so bad; but don’t as a general rule manure in the spring and expect to produce a fine syrup; as arule it don’t always work on the most of our western lands. Plow your land again in the spring and thoroughly pulverize it, and if there should come a heavy rain and run it together, plow again, and when the weed . seed begin to sprout drag and keep clean. The early ma- turity of cane depends on the condition your enti is in when ready to plant. TIME OF PLANTING. Early planting is desirable, providing the ground is warm, dry and mellow. The first spell of warm settled weather in May is best I think for this latitude, and should be taken advantage of, and not wait until corn planting (S) is ovcr, unless you plant corn in April. Then be sure and plant your cane next if the weather is favorable and don’t plow your corn over first aud negleet your cane. The germ of the cane seed is very delicate when starting, and is easy chilled. One cold drenching rain very often will chill the young shoots if not out of the ground, so they will scarcely recover. In such a case the best way is to plow up and replant at once, and you will save time. All must be governed more or less by circumstances, of which latitudes and soils vary. North we have later springs, while South as a general rule they areearlier. Again, the different soils in the same locality vary, either from the dif- terencein cultivation or from the previous crops, and cer- tuin slopes of the country. The south or east slopes are best, then plant your rows north and south, so as to re- ceive the rays of the sun. PREPARING THE SEED. Clean your seed thoroughly and take the ameunt of seed you can plant in one day and put in asuitable vessel, so the seed is not over two inches:deep. If mice, moles or birds are bad, to each quart of seed take one table spoonful of copperas and one of chloride of lime; put them in with the seed, then take boiling water and pour on un- til all swims, stirring continuously for one minute and no longer; then add cold water at once, until it becomes cool- ed down to milk warm. Leaye in this state thirty minutes. stirring occasionally ; then pour off the water, and mix with leached ashes, dirt or plaster which has been found to be a valuable fertilizer for the plant. Seed prepared in this way will come up in less than five days, if the’ weather is favorable andthe ground warm this gives you the ad- vantage of the fine grass just starting; vermin will keep heir distance also. Corn prepared the same way (only (9) use warm water instead of boiling) would be earlier and would not be molested by worms and pests. DEPTH OF PLANTING, DRILLING, ETC. Your ground should be newly prepared the same day you are ready to plant, so that every weed or spear of grass started is killed. If your ground has been properly taken care of previous to this, harrowing with a straight tooth harrow so as to cut deep and destroy all the weeds started will be all that is necessary. If your ground could be harrowed three or four times previous to plant- ing, say five to eight days apart, it would bring the weeds up taster, and destroying them would be easy. Now take a corn marker with three runners or slides, put on weight enough to mark twoinches deep. Drill the seed with your hand which is the best and surest way, one seed every half inch. This will look rather tedious, but a little prac- tice will give youthe art. Ifyou can get a seed drill that will dothe work, it would be much faster. Some use the corn planter, but as you want a stalk every two inches or less, itis hard to get the corn planter to work. If you drill by hand,coyer as you go so that the seed don’t dry too much. Do not cover the seed more than two inches in loose dirt. If your land is clay or heavy one inch is deep enough to coyer the seed. I am in favor of drilling fora number of reasons. First, you can grow more than double the amount of cane on the same land. Second, the quality is a great deal better. Third, you can cut it nearer the ground. Fourth, you can blade it a great deal faster, besides it is not half so apt to lodge or blow down, as each stalk is strong and independent. In fact there is economy all the way until you get through hand- ling it. You want a stalk every one and one-half or two inches. I would rather have a stalk every inch than one ever three or four inches; you want your rows four feet apart. Planting in this way you will have a crop of (10) even and original stalks, which won’t be half $0 likely to throw out succors;cane grown in this way will produce far more syrup to the acre and ofa better quality. If you fail to get a good stand, you will more than likely be both- ered with succors which shoull be removed before they are five inches long as they will take the strength of the main stalk and cause the syrup to not be so good, your cane will also be more likcly to lodge, and not ripen even. CULTIVATION. This should commence as soon as you get part-of your crop planted, especially if it looks like raining, if the weather is fair perhaps you can finish. Then take your shovel plow and go around each row, just as close as pos- sible, making a furrow to drain off the water, and to re- ceive the rays of the sun. If you roll an inch of dirt once and a while on the drill of covered seed it won’t do any hurt, it only will form a break so the water will goto the furrow. Now watch close, it will be up ina few days then you must lose no time. Take a rake or hoe and go over the rows and kill the young grass, and where the. plants are very thick take out a few then plow again, and in eight or ten days go over again, taking out the grass _and weeds clean, also thinning to one aad one-half inches. This will end the worst part of the cultivation, providing everything has been done right. Plow your cane thoroughly and deep, keep it clean until it begins to joint oris three feet high. Then quit and do no more to it, in the shape of plowing, leaving your ground as near level as possible. Hilling up cane injures it and plowing after it begins to joint is injurious and will spoil the syrup. If you have jimpson, cockleburs and other large weeds to contend with after you quit plowing, pull them out by hand or cut off with a brush-scythe. (11) The roots now being no more disturbed can take their course and find the good qualities which the soil posseses, and will produce a No. | article of syrup, and 50 per cent. more than any other mode of culture. By strictly adhere- ing to the principles herein layed down, and using your judgment judiciously where circumstances vary, doing everything at the proper time and place, I can’t see what is to hinder any farmer from growing a good: crop of cane, and the same producing a good quality of syrup if properly manufactured. HARVESTING. To strip cane, take a wooden sword or a narrow fork- ed stick, some use a three tined fork. Then if you can take a day when the wind is blowing hard it is an easy job. Here you will again see the importance in favor of drilling cane, besides it is not likely your cane will be lodged. The blades should be taken off five or ten days preyious te cutting up your cane or just when the seed is in last dough state, so that when you come to cut your cane it is thoroughly ripe or at least three-fourths of the stalks should be in a matured state and if all could be, so much the better. By following up the above instructions carefully, you hurry up the maturity just at the right time and get rid of the overplus of bad juice and acid, which is one of the great causes of so much bad syrup. Now when ripe cut it close to the ground and keep it from dropping in the dirt, for here is--the first start of filthy syrup after you haye a good crop of cane grown. As the stalk dries, it absorbs the dirt. and you can scarcely get rid of it. The last joint below has more good syrup in it, than the three top ones. Never top your cane until you have it cut then top below the first joint and keep it off the ground if possible. The blades answer a good pur- pose here or anything that is dry. If you could keep your (12) cine out of the hot sun and rain and at an even tempature all the better fora good syrup. Never work up your cane until it has laid ten days after cutting. If at that time you can’t get it worked up and it has to lay six or eight weeks or even till December it should be stood erect as it grew, on boards or ina barn so asto admit the air and keep the water evaporating in its natural channels or it will sour. The sweet never evaporates, if it did we could not use open pans. Here you can protect it from freezing by covering with hay or straw until youcan get it worked up. Then haul to the mill as fast as it is worked up and you will be sure of good syrup, superior in taste to that worked up early and half greem. By a little care you can work cane in this latitude until December. The producer ot cane should know just what it takes to manufacture a good syrup and the manufactuer should know just how to grow or at least know by the looks and taste when cane is grown right. Then he would be ableto proceed intelli- gently and make his part of the work a success and a pleasant paying business. Hence I will say a few words on manufacturing. MANUFACTURING. This is the last and most essential point. First you need simple machinery made strong and durable, which will last for years if properly cared for. Then it should cost a reasonable price and be in the reach of all. CRUSHERS. On alittle inquiry you can find who makes the best crusher nearest home and thereby saving freights. Most of the large cities which have founderies should manufac- ture a good crusher. I hope to be able by another season (13) to have an improved crusher on the market which will be cheap, durable and come at much less than some which are offered at present. EVAPORATORS. You want the best and most economical. The best pans or eyaporators which have been patented, are man- ufactured East and cost entirely too much. This is what led me to to the present discovery of a new system of making pans. I beleiye that my system has all the adyan- tages of the most costly aparatus and is in the reach of all. I hope the producers of cane will urge on the manufac- turers the importance of getting the best improved ma- chinery, so as to make an even grade of syrup. Then both will realize a better profit, and find a steady market for our surplus “sweet.” The way mostof the cane juice is reduced to syrup is astonishing ;it is done by main strength and awkwardness and not by any intelligent system, and to a great extent the cane has been produced in the same way; by chance or some other miserable accident. ‘That is the cause of so much poor molasses on the market, at ruinous figures. Who would not get discouraged at such results? Nature has fixed laws governing everything and man should study these laws and apply them judiciously and every- thing would go along smooth and profitably in all branch- es of trade and business. ‘The bee don’t gather honey from thorns or thistles, but from the sweetest flowers. Here is a fathomless depth of reflection on nature’s won- derful works. The cane plant when properly cultivated and manu- factured comes nearer producing honey for the human race in abundance, than anything which man can put together. I can guarantee a No. 1 article of honey syrup to almost every oneif they will plant the Imphee African cane that is pure, and do their part as layed down herein, which (14) some may not call yery intelligent or gramatical, and ad - mitting the fact, I believe they might learn a valuable les- son after all. CLEANLINESS. This is the next in order. To make nice syrup every thing must be kept clean and in order, and when you Lave syrup ready to putin the barrel, see that the head has been taken out and thoroughly cleaned. Never put molasses in a barrel unless 1t is cool. The steam that is in it causes a dark color if confined no matter how nice it was before. Thorough filtering previous to boiling is indispensible, if youexpect good syrup. My new plan for straining the juice several hundred times while boiling, in connection with my New Evaporating Pan, takes out every particle of foreign substance. Skimming so much while reducing is a bad practice as it breaks the skum and won’t gather or get strong enough to hold the heavy particles. Skimming not enough is just as bad. Hence my new plan on skimmiug I believe will be a great benefit as it will save a great deal of labor and‘do the work more thoroughly just at the right time. We must get rid of all the green and foreign substance or we can’t produce afine syrup. WhenT say syrup L mean one which will bring the highest price in the market, and it can be done. The syrup made from cane some say has a peculiar taste; well that isa fact toa great extent and the cause is there lias been something done at the wrong time. I have known fine syrup to be produced from cane grown on highly manured land or stock yards, to be so salty that it could not be used. It was simply in the growth, and now when you come to the manufacturing of syrup there is nine chances out of ten to make a bad article if everything is not done just at the right time. For health, there is no sweet. made that is better. Ask a chemist and he will tell you that this cane (19) syrup has an acid in it which is indispensible to the health of man, andthe more you use it the more you will like it. While other molasses all have more or Jess chemicals and impurities which are injurious to the human system and no doubt has been the cause of much dispepsy and other diseases. Right here I will say another word for the intelligent. The candies to-day that are sold by the million of dollars worth annualy,are the most deadly poison dosed out, say what you please scientific men and women ; it is a fact - nd can be proven; besides destroying the teeth it destroyes the digestive organs and creates an apetite for irregular meals, which in many cases has been the first step to encourage drunkeness. How often we hear the young man say my teeth are bad and ache and will try smoking and chewing. Then what seores of cases have went step by step to the drunkards grave just from this one starting point. There is scarcely any colored candy but what has poison in it more or less and even the white candy at this day 1s so adulterated it is scarcely fit to taste, much less to gorge the stomach with. What is the reason so many children have been killed almost instantly if it don’t contain poison ? but generaly speaking it is a slow poison. a penny’s worthat a time. Itis laying the foun- dation mite by mite, and you don’t realize that vou have ' poisoned your child ; such is the case and hasbeen proven time and again. Now give your children all the pure molasses or sugar they can eat at their regular meals and they will not require any other sweets for health. In place of buying candy for your children buy them instructive toys or books whieh will teach them a lesson for future benefit, and keep a bottle of cough syrup on hand in place of candies for colds. PROFIT OF CANE GROWING. Say the average per acre is 100 gallons, that is 50 gallons per acre less than it should be if the rule tor (16) cultiyation herein is followed. We will take 100 gallons as an average. Now ifa No.1 article of home made svr- up is worth 50 cents per gallon for family use, why not raise it? you are sure then you have it, and Know what it costs and it is paid for and you don’t have to be buying continually by the gallon at all prices, and get short meas- ure, bad molasses and out part of the time just when you are likely to need it the worst, besides it is a continual drawing on your purse. Now the seed for poultry and hogs and the fodder left on the ground for manure and the sweet skimmings for vinegar, the other waste for the pigs will pay all the extra expense over the growth of corn. Now say you get 100 gallons of syrup half will be yours. You can now count the profit and will find that it is far cheaper to grow your own syrup and have plenty and your family will also require a great deal less sugar which is another saving. There could be volumns more written on this subject but I have said enough to convince any one of its vast importance. HINTS ON PREPARATION, ETC. First now in order is a good location, with plenty of fall and water, and a proper house or shed to work in; then see that your furnace is in order, which must be air tight, or it will consume too much fuel, and you can not get the proper degree of heat; your furnace should be thorough- ly dry before attempting to commence making molasses or firing heavy, as it will crack, and you can’t possibly get the necessary degree of heat. Close up the cracks as fast as they show, no matter how fine. Brick is best for the front part of a furnace, or any rock that will stand fire willdo. Back of that any common rock answers. Brick, clay, or white fire-proof clay makes good mortar for this purpose. After your wall is leveled to suit the pan, ash- es are best to bed the pan in, for they are always handy. (17) Keep everything around the furnace sprinkled with water, tokeep down dust and the ashes in their proper place along the edge of the pan. Back of the ash-pit you must fill up close to the pan with dirt; say within four or six inches, according to the size of your chimney or the amount of draft required. You can increase the draft by digging a hole under your chimney the size of a bucket or half bushel. The mouth of the furnace should be to- wards the prevailing winds if possible. You want good furnace doors air tight,,so as the draft has to enter under the grates. Here is where you will gain time and some tue] and control a proper degree of heat, which is indis- pensable in making a good syrup. If you expect to get all the benefit of the heat which is in fuel consumed, keep the cold draft away from your pan and make it en- ter under the grate. Next, your pans should be made out of the heaviest galvanized iron, of the best quality, and should not have a seam come in contact with the fire, and there should be no wood come in . contact with the hot juice or molasses, as it imparts color to the syrup. My pan is seamless and has no wood in connection with the heated juice or syrup. FILTERING. A long trough is best, say 12 or 18 feet, pack well with clean prairie hay, other hay or straw will do but not so well. Previous to starting through the filter you should run it through a tub with hay or straw, that will take out the most filth,so that your trough will only need new straw or hay in every morning and a thorongh cleaning every night, while your tub. will need cleaning two or three times during the day or the heavy dirt taken off. Three pine boards one foot wide make a good filter. You can’t be too thorough in filtering, especially if the cane is a little green or has been in the least damaged. If you have nothing but sweet water to contend with, (48) when once over the fire it is an easy matter to make nice syrup, but if you have all the filth which is on the cane, you stand a poor chance of making a good syrup. The more fal! you can get from your crusher to the furnace the better you can filter. Wood is another important item. Your fuel should be thoroughly dry and worked up in shape previous to the working season. It should be dry or part of itat least should bein the dry, so you won’t be loseing time in bad weather, everything in fact should be in the dry, crusher, cane and all, should the season be wet, it would be a great saving. By using some coal with your wood makes a hotter and more even fire, Where fuel is high and scarce the crushed stalks dried and pressed to some extent make an excellent fuel. My new cooling apparatus will be found of great importance as the steam can eseape thoroughly and leaves the syrup lighter colored and prepares it quicker for the barrel. The essential points which I claim for my Evaporat- ing Pans are: Ist. They have no seams to be burning and coloring the syrup. 9nd. EF use dampers and have perfect control of the fire in a second if neeessary. 3d. The Pan and furnace is so construc ted that the fire is never checked. 4th. I can draw off syrup as thick as candy and not scorch it in the least. 5th. We simply change the course of the fire and don’t check it. Hence we get all the heat and lose no time. 6th. I can skim more thoroughly than most of pans, and with less labor. 7th. My pan has more heating surface, 8th. They are easy handled by two persons. 9th. You can use classifiers if necessarv when cane is in a bad condition, strong lime water can be used to ad- vantage, by adding a few spoonfuls as the mass is coming to a boiling heat, this is unnecessary if eyery thing has been (19) properly done previous. A little care and practice will soon suggest the proper proportions. 10th. My uew skimmer and straining apparatus in connection is unsurpassed. llth. They require less care and do the work perfect. Hence, it is more pleasant. 12th. There is not half fhe danger of boiling over and if they should there is no loss. 13th. We use less water in finishing up than any pan or evaporator made. 14th. You can take out the svrup as clean as you please with no waste. 15th. You van quit in fifleer minutes, and don’t haye to us2 barrels of water to keep eyerything trom burning up. I have made as much asa four days run and don’t believe I used four buckets of water to clean the pans during that time, and made as good syrup the last day as the first. 16th. My pans are easier kept clean than any pan made. 17th. ‘Chey consist of twe sections in four depart- ments and are so arranged that they bring the juice at the proper time over the proper heat, which is a great advan- tage in making good syrup. 18th. Each department is perfectly issolated, so there is no danger of getting the juice of different degrees of sweetness mixed which is another cause of black molasses 19th. LTuse the syphenin handling most of the hot juice and molasses. 20th. My pans cost but very little more than a com- mon box pan and last five times as Jong and you are sure of making a good syrup at less cost. Believing I have a good pan [ expect to manufacture some this season for the market. They can be manufactured by almost any tin smith who has the right and proper instructions. Hence there will be a great saving in freights. My prices and instructions will be furnished to those wishing pans, or “Sema to learn of their utility so as to manufacture them. (20) Any information wanted on these subjects will be cheerfully answered on receipt of stamp to prepay post- age by addressing the author. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. Ihave made up my mind that a few good recipes will not be found amiss and if sent forth in this work may be the means of relieving some poor sufferers or, saying dollars of expense to many. aes | ‘“Karth to earth and dust to dust.” . Every thing it seems has to return to mother earth, and if man is so particular about burying his brother, why not be as particular in burying diseased animals. There should be a strict law to this effect and put in force. The hog cholera almost invariably follows the chicken choleva, and if precaution’ was taken and remedies used in time, there would be a great deal less loss by contagious diseases. The old saying isan ounce of preventative is worth a pound of cure. _ HOG CHOLERA PREVENTATIVE. Cleanliness is the first thing in order and should consist of a large pasture judiciously arranged .in different fields, having blue-grass, clover,-artichokes and ground almonds, well set. Land once set with these will grow hogs without much corn or medicine, providing man will learn sense 2nough to leave the ring out of his pig’s noses while growing and giye hima chance to grow up in nature’s drugstore. A little corn will then finish him and he will bein a healthy condition for market. If you can’t keep them as aboye directed, keep plenty of stone coal by them, and once a month rake together the corn cobs and old beds and sprinkle on some sulphur and set fire to the mass. After burning throw on some salt ; this makes the best charcoal and ashes for hogs there is. Then here is a few more: Raise yourown hogs and keep them at home until ready for market. Take one part of sulphur, one part of copperas, and four parts of salt, to eight parts of ashes, and feed a small handful once a week to each. Some one I hear is about to lay in a claim for the $10,000 which the State of Missouri offered for a preven- tatiye for hog cholera, claiming the turnip to be the anti- dote. [have tried cabbage and found a marked change in health and apetite, and if the common field turnip proves a preventative there are other things of the same family which will do as a-substitute in case the turnip is a failure. After all the above, if your hogs get the cholera keep them away from cold water. Give them warm milk, swill or water, when first taken and while they eat and when they get to eating add a teaspoonful of turpentine twicea day to each. Don’t try to drench a hog as you will lose him nine times out of ten. The best thing to do is to knock him im the head and bury deep. This will nine times out of ten stop the disease, if you have com- menced thoroughly with the turpentine. [I have had good success in growing ground almonds and will send by mail one dozen with instructions how to grow on receipt ef twenty-five cents. Good for man and beast. MraAsies—If your hogs get the measles add to the salt and ashes half teaspoonful of saltpetre and the same of madder, washing thoroughly with soap suds and rubing with kerosen oil. Buinp Sraeerrs—Apply turpentine twice a day between the ears and down the forehead, and keep in the dry. For kidney worms rub the spine thoroughly with turpentine. (23) CHICKEN CHoLERA.—Keep water and old scraps otf iron ina trough. If your chickens have a warm place . and are in good orderand don’t lay, give onions, chalk, egg shells, and heat some lard and stir in some oats, and while warm put in some red pepper chopped fine. Keep plenty of gravel on the yard and a shallow box with dry ashes in it and a few tablespoonfuls of sulphur. Also sprinkle the-nest with sulphur, and they won’t be troubled with lice, or any disease. ‘To Curk Croup.—Take a paper that will cover the child’s chest, spread with tallow and sprinkle with ginger or very thin mustard will do but be careful and don’t put on enough to blister. Spread on, drawing close up to the lower part of the throat, and keep it on until relieved. Keep pulverized alum and sugar or molasses ready / give a teaspoonful every few minutes until they vomit, then stop unless they get worse. If yourchildren are subject to croup or bad colds, grease their chest on going to bed, and give some good tea. Elder blossom when in full bloom gathered and dried carefully, makes one of the best teas for children. Follow up next morning with a cathartic. Goop Curgs For Common Coups.—Take prickly ash bark and soak in cold water and on going to bed drink freely, and during the night. This is also good for rheumatism. Sure Cure ror Frost Birr.—Take a piece of alum and wet it with your tongue, and rub the affected parts every evening thoroughly until cured. To Make Goop VINEGAR.—One quart of molasses and three gallons rain water; add your green apple parings and one quart of dried apples well browned. Put in half tea cup of yeast or vinegar plant. Cover with thin muslin and set away ina warm place. The vinegar will be good in two or three weeks. As you take out vinegar add more sweetened water in the same proportion. Dealers can manufacture there own vinegar in this way, and sell with- out being in danger of poisoning their customers. (24) _. Lo Prevent Lice ow Srock.—Feed half teaspoonial sulphur to each animal with salt and ashes once a week. To Keep Sweet Porarors. tHE YEAR Rovunp. —As, soon as the leaves are killed by frost, take off the vines and dig. Pick up in baskets eareiully and don’t bruise or break oft the roots. Carry to your boxes and lay. in as car- fully aseggs. Your boxes or barrels should have been prepared previous. Have them air tight. Spread hay or straw in the bottom two inches deep. Your box should be up stairs or in the garret where the heat from below will strike it or the chimney will keep them warm. The larger the pile of potatoes the better, as they will no: cool so fast. Leave your boxes open antil cold weather, and as the cold advances add old clothing and maitipe. and when water will bégin to freeze out doors connect your box withan opening through the floor, by hanging quilts or something down oyerthe box to the floor. If your box is in’a room where there is fire during the day, it don’t require so much care. The main thing is to keep the temperature about 50 degrees. Don’t moye your po-- tatoes after they have become accustomed to this position and latitude. If your potatoes begin to rot you had bei- ter get rid of them as they are damaged and will uot keep. Ihave kept sweet potatoes twelve months which were as, soung and good as they weré when putup. Ii they begin to shriyel or take the dry rot, sprinkle with tepid water. every few days. Sweet potatoes must have air and more — sé than any other vegetable and that through one opening | at the top of the box. “As the cold advances they need — less air. When spring comes give them more air and shut off'the heat from below and spread them out but be care-_ ful and not let them chill at night. Don’t ‘put Sy or dirt with potatoes. They must bave air. Ss ~Froir T varieties generally, require a deep, loose, well ea rich soil, followed up - with thorough cultivation, Train the top of your trees close to the ground, so they will shade the trunk and . ground which will ereatly prevent insects, besides they. (25) stand the storms better and the fruit is much easier gath- ered without injuring the tre> or fruit. The following remedies will be tound effectual] against borers, rabbits and other insects. Take one quart soft soap and one pint coal oil, mix thoroughly. and add one ounce of aloes well dissolved. mix the whole with ten gallons of water. Sprinkle the tops of your trees thoroughly or any other plants effected with inseets. Apply once a day in the evening, until their depredations are checked. Then once a week will answer. SpeciaAL Mrxrure For RaBBIts AND BoreErs.—Soft soap, one gallon; assafoetida, one ounce; turpentine, half pint. Paint the body of your trees two or three times a year. Take away the dirt around the tree and dig out the borers, and paint thoroughly with the wash, then replace the dirt. This comes from good authority and in my mind believe it will be found effectual. Sulphur has been recommended for blight and rust in apples. Take one ounce and sprinkle round the body of the tree three or four feet and rake it in good, early in the spring each year. BuLicHT IN Pear TREES a SuRE Curge.—Remove the earth from the body and main roots of the trees two or three feet. ‘Take old scraps of cast iron and pound up to the size of marbles. Put in a pail and pour on yinegar, and put one handful along the roots and around the body and replace the dirt. This will be found effectual for all trees diseased for want of iron, which I believe is the cause of fruit failing more than anything else. To Distroy CarrrPiLLars.—Smoke your trees with a sulphur torch, which is a sure death to the caterpillars, and I belieye will be found a sure remedy against blight in small fruit. ‘To Make Caspacre Hrapv.—Take a stick the size of a lead pencil and sharpen toa point, and run it through the stalk just above the ground, give a twist and draw out. Try this and you will be convinced. (26) To Dress Furrep Game.—Dip the auimal in water until the tur is wet and you can remove it withtout stick- ing to the flesh. Don’t feed a dog turpentine, if you do fits will be the result. To Kitt Rats, Mick, Roacnxrs, erc.—Learn them. to eat out of a small box half covered containing one part sugar; eight parts meal; and foer parts flour or shorts. Let them eat at this a day or two, allowing them a scanty meal, then add four parts of the finest plaster paris. which can be obtained at any drugstore and the work will be done. It will become solid in their stomachs and death will follow. Fire KinpLer.—Take an oyster can and cut a hole large enough to receive a corn cob, put a half pint of coal oil in the can and fit a lid or cork and set away where it will be handy and have a cob with it. When you want to kindle a fire dip the co) in ihe can in the oil, and hold a second or two over the can to drain, then lay in, the atove near the drait and put your fine coal, wood or chips and light witha match. This is the cheapest and. best fire kindler in existence. Care oF Horses, ETc.—Feed, water, work and salt regular. Give your horses all the ashes and salt they wil! eat at leasure and a teaspoontul of sulphur once a week, especialy if your stock have fice. It your horse gets: the colic and you have no good remedy at hand, take hen tna- nure and make a strong tea aud drench with it. Brown salt makes a good drench. Feed your norses, once a month plenty of green elm brush or bark, it is better than any medicine. Assafoetida is a good preventative of diseases, tie on the bifs.and keep in trough. WarTeER Proor BLACKING.— Beeswax, half pound ; ros- in, quarter pound; tallow,,two pounds;, castor oil, half pint; lamp black, half ounce; put the whole, together and © bring slowly to a boiling heat,stirring continually antil all is dissolved. This costs but very littleand will save more (27) than five dollars worth of leather a vear. Pot on warm not hot, and rub in thoroughly, and when your boots be- vin to soak water dry and give them a good coat of black- ing and vou will never be troubled with wet feet. 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