WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST FROM ORIGINAL WATER COLOR SKETCHES DRAWN FROM NATURE BY EMMA ROMAN THAYER AUTHOR OF " WILD FLOWERS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS," ETC. CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, 739 & 741 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. BIOLOGY LIBRARY ( f> «_ • *» o COPYRIGHT, '',/ '' ',,'', \ 5887, ,,Sx O. M.'E.UNHAM. ALL RIGHTS KESERVED. CHKOMO-LITHOGRAPHKD BY DONALDSON BROTHERS, NEW YORK. PRESS W. L. MERSHON & Co., RAHWAY, N. J. I DEDICATE THIS BOOK TO THE MEMORY OF MY FATHER GEORGE W. HOMAN. M40874 INTRODUCTION. In presenting this collection of Wild Flowers, I have selected those from my sketches that are most beloved by the people of the coast, and are new and of interest to lovers of wild flowers in the East. I have given them to you as I found them growing in their natural simplicity along the trails of the mountains, and by the streams in the valleys. They are but a handful compared to the multitude we find all along the coast. All the varieties of the East are found here. There is no peak so -high, or valley so deep, but you see their lovely faces waiting to welcome you. They smile and nod as if inviting you to catch them. You reach up to pluck one, and you discover a bright-colored neigh- bor beckoning you higher, and so you climb to the very top, all unconscious of the dizzy height, lured on by these bright-arrayed children of the mountains. In the places most difficult of access I found the most beautiful flowers. It would seem as if they wished to hide the delicate members of their family from the rude gaze of the world, sheltered in some nook of the rocks, like a miniature conservatory tenderly cared for by the fairies of the mountains. Often you will see a most beautiful specimen growing just beyond your reach on some rugged point. The desire to possess it is so great you can hardly resist the danger- ous reach. I once saw a whole bed of fine bell-shape flowers on a point above me, im- possible to climb. I had spent days in trying to find this variety, and here they were a few feet above my head, but no human hand could touch them. They grew wondrously beautiful while I gazed, and I imagined they grew larger and larger until they looked like a whole chime of bells ringing out a dirge to my disappointed ambitions. In Southern California you can pick wild flowers every month in the year, and in February they make their appearance all over the state, and continue their line of march up the coast, and by April you find them in the fields and woods of Oregon. To those who are familiar with the flowers of California, may they welcome these in my collection as old friends, and to those who are strangers, may they prove an introduc- tion to the home of the beautiful wild flowers of the Pacific Coast. E. H. T. LIST OF PLATES. BUTTERCUPS. EVENING PRIMROSE. BURR-CLOVER. BABY BLUE EYES. YELLOW POPPY. LARKSPUR. WILD THRIFT. CLUSTER LILY. . VIOLET. WILD VERBENA. BLUE BELLS. SNAP-DRAGON. SHOOTING STAR. WILD PEONY. CHINESE CIGARETTE BLOSSOM. WILD HELIOTROPE. « TIDY-TIPS." SNOW PLANT. FORGET-ME-NOT. WOOD LILY, i AZALEA. SPOTTED LILY. I SALMON BLOSSOMS AND PINK GRASS. MARIPOSA LILY. . Wild Flowers of the Pacific Coast. BUTTERCUPS. CAL!!"0! As our train nears San Francisco we run on the long pier far out in the bay, and as we board one of the fine ferry- boats, a friend directs us to the front and says: " You get a finer view here." We have an indistinct remembrance of his continuing to talk, but in our surprise and delight at the view we do not hear him. The magnificent bay is before us. In the distance we see the city of San Francisco, with its hundred of spires tipped with brasses shining out in the sun. The bay is as smooth as a mirror, stately ocean ships and " men-of-war" are coming in or going out!" The ferry-boats, so large and fine, they remind us of the Boston steamboats in size and grandeur. Yachts and fishing smacks lie side by side, and the saucy little tug goes flying in and out, peeping here and there in her inquisitive way, as if wishing to know her neigh- bors' business. Flags are flying, and every nation is represented, but with their colors we see a flag that seems to act as host and guardian, and we recognize the Stars and Stripes. White-winged birds fly abreast our boat and lead the way, as if bidding us a welcome. Flow beautiful it is, and we seat IO WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. ourselves comfortably to enjoy it all, when we are gently touched upon the arm, and a voice low but distinct asks : " Grand Hotel ?" and the notes echo from every side, the first word changed, but the last ever the same — " Palace Hotel?" " Occidental Hotel ? ' We stop the echo by saying, " Occidental Hdfcol,! please." Our hand-bag and bundles disappear, and when \>?ei jlatn'd ,!the same quiet voice directs us to the coach, and we are wheeled away through the business portion of San Fran- cisco, and landed in the reception-room of the Occidental. Not a moment is lost, you are shown a room and there you find your bags and bundles, which give it a home look, and you are left with a " Hope you'll find every thing comfortable, ma'm," which makes. you feel the boy's your friend. I prepare for lunch, and the lonely feeling is just beginning to creep stealthily in when a rap is heard, which startles it. The door is opened, and a kind voice says, "Wid de compliments of Maj. Hooper, de proprietor of dis hotel," and a basket is placed upon my table filled with buttercups fresh cut, with odors of new mown hay and suggestions of country fields and bright- eyed daisies about them. The lonely feeling disappears. I select a bunch from the basket and arrange them for my belt, and am about to stab them with the long pin, when I change my mind. No ! I will paint them instead, they shall be my first sketch, and so my first day spent in San Francisco was devoted to this little bunch of buttercups that came from the fields back of Oakland. EVENING PRIMROSE. The second day after my arrival in Sacramento, I was told of a little Scotch girl who knew every wild flower for miles around, and at one of the flower festivals she had sent a great variety of them beautifully arranged, and they were so much admired her name had been mentioned in a complimentary manner in the city papers. Through a mutual friend I made the acquaintance of the little girl- -Jennie McClure. A call upon her, and we became friends at once. We made an engagement to go the next day in search of primroses. "Yes, she knew just where they grew, lovely white ones. We would have to walk quite a bit if I did not mind." I did " not mind." I was to call for Jennie at ten the next morning, but long before that hour she came for me. ' I thought you had forgot the time, and I'd come on a bit and meet you ! " " No, Jennie, I did not forget the hour. I was just starting when I saw you coming, but I am glad you came. I shall have your company so much the longer." " Do you mind if I take Tom with us ? He is my brother, and always goes with me when I go for flowers," and the sweet face brightened while she waited for my answer. " Have him come with us by all means. Where is he ?" " I felt most sure you'd like him to go, and I told him to 12 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST; pick a basket of oranges. We'll get so dry, walking in the sun, and after we eat the oranges we can put the flowers in the basket. Oh, here he comes ! Tom, this is the lady, and she likes you to go," and Jennie brought him forward in the most motherly manner for his introduction. We took the street cars out to the edge of the town, and then Tom led the way, while Jennie talked constantly, telling me of their many trips after flowers ; and she knew the exact place to find the primroses, she had seen them " hundreds of times." " You know, Tom, it is just the other side of the big flow." " Yes, Jennie, I know presaxley. Is the lady afraid of snakes ?" "Yes, Tom, I am. Why?" I asked in alarm. " 'Cause a bit to the left is a nest of 'um. I killed one on our last trip. Do you mind, Jennie?" " Yes, I do, Tom. But Papa said if we ran crooked, like this, they would not come out," and Jennie gathered up her short skirts and started. I followed, but Tom walked straight in the middle of the road in a most dignified manner. He carried a stick in his hand almost as large as himself, ready to defend us, did the snake make his appearance. But none came out, and we walked on again in safety, I to listen to wonderful snake stories from Tom, who, being only "ten, but going on eleven," had had wonderful experiences for one of his years. The 'big flow" was reached; Tom helped me over the stepping-stones safely, and the dainty " beauties " were soon dug up and nestling lovingly in my basket. BURR CLOVER. Is there any thing more lovely than youth? — a young girl just coming into womanhood ? It is in California you find the .loveliest girls in the world, large in stature and graceful in form. I have watched them by the hour, laughing and chatting, all unconscious of the great charm of their beauty — health. There is something about the air of California that is exhil- arating. It gives a kind of champagne pop to every thing. Men and women walk faster, ricle faster, and live faster than in the East. Girls marry younger, and boys become men while yet in their teens. It is the climate. Two young girls at my hotel interested me; they were great friends, and I found them well-informed and ever ready to give me information about their State, with a pride all possess who live in it. I met them one clay, their faces flushed and their hands full of great bunches of burr clover. " Where did you get them?" I asked. "They are beautiful." The flower was new to me, and consequently of great value. "At the mission 'Dolo- res.' You can get just lovely ones there," they answered. The next day found me at this wonderful mission, founded by the Spanish Friars in the year 1776. The sexton points out the three little bells in the three square openings, and assures you they were brought from the Castle many years ago. The long narrow aisles lead you to the altar, and here we see what the j^ WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. sexton tells us is a painting of the Last Supper, the Madonna and the Christ, Saint Frances and Saint James. The walls, he tells us, are four feet thick, and they look fifty. A weak, closed- in feeling comes over you, and you think of the lovely fresh air outside, and when you reach it, give a prayer of thanksgiving that you are allowed to breathe it again. " Do you want to see the graveyard, miss ?" " Yes, if it is not under cover and the sunshine is allowed to come in," I answered. " Plenty of sunshine there," and he leads the way. As we pass through the gate the old man bows his head- so do I. We are in the presence of the dust of those that have slept here over a hundred years. We read the inscriptions and find them in six different languages — I should say see them in six — the hieroglyphics on the Indian headstones we could not decipher, but are assured they are the names of great chieftains. On a board headstone, the lettering nearly washed out by the years of rain upon it, we see under the name the letters "V. C.," and ask what it means. "Oh, that stands for Vigilance Committee; you will see that on some of the marble stones. Would I go further?" ' No, I had seen enough, if he would allow me to pick some of the burr clover growing near." Why, yes; take these growing near the slab of James Sul- livan, the world-renowned 'Yankee Sullivan.' You see there is a'V. C.' on it." I took them, and so you see them in my sketch. ~, 0 , BABY BLUE EYES. The name of " Monterey" has a charm for thousands of tourists who have visited that beautiful place, in the last three years. Indeed the interest in this place dates back to 1842, when the United States seized the territory of California, but relinquished, it the next day. Commodore Jones, of the Amer- ican navy, captured the fort of Monterey, and hoisted the Stars and Stripes, but the next morning he hauled down his flag, and- apologized for his mistake. They were not hoisted again until July yth, 1846, and then by Commodore Sloat with no intention of imitating his predecessor's example by pulling them down. " There is probably no place upon the coast so replete with natural charms as Monterey. Its exquisite beauty and variety of scenery is diversified with ocean, bay, lake and streamlet ; mountain, hill and valley, and groves of oak, cypress, spruce, pine and other trees. The mountain views are very beautiful, particularly the Gabilan and Santa Cruz spurs." In a beautiful park not far from the town of Monterey stands the magnificent hotel called " The Del Monte." " This is perfection, a-dream," said an enthusiastic girl standing near me, the morning after my arrival, and I could but echo her words. It was early, but the sun was far up, and its rays upon the freshly-watered grass threw countless diamonds on every blade. The cultivated flowers were everywhere — in artistic clusters, 1 6 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. the hand of an artist had arranged their start in life, and they had fully repaid him by arraying- themselves in colors that per- fectly blended with their neighbors. The temptation to walk could not be resisted. As we turned the corner of the house, the odor of heliotrope was so strong it made us wonder if the gardener was using the perfume in his watering-pot. But we soon discovered from whence came the delicious odor. A vine completely covered the end of the hotel ; it was up far above the second-story windows and thousands of blossoms were gracefully hanging from its branches. As we continued our walk by the fountains and lakes we soon came to a grove of trees that had been left in their natural beauty. The grass was wild but smooth as velvet. On a little mound under a young bushy tree I saw what looked like a light- blue covering, and found peeping through the grass these pretty • "blue babies'-eyes." They were so sweet, nestled away under this bush, too delicate and slender to bear the full rays of the sun, I could not pick them, but promised to spend the morning with them. Returning to the hotel for my colors, I took a hasty breakfast, and the rest of the morning found me seated by the side of these flowers so prettily named. They are one of the favorites of the flora on the coast. All seem to love them. The prettiest decorations for a table I ever saw were sea-shells filled with these beautiful flowers. A great variety of flowers grow around Monterey. The ladies bring in great bunches, making the "Del Monte' look like a conservatory of wild flowers. YELLOW POPPY. On one of my trips over the Northern Pacific road, at a little station called " Santa Rosa," a man hurriedly entered the car, followed closely by his wife and little girl. Depositing the many bundles on the seat, he kissed them both and said, "There! Good-by ! Take good care of yourselves and enjoy your trip." To the little girl he said, "Don't call me back or watch me out of sight, it's bad luck." So simple and honest was this warning, I became interested in the man and watched him from the car window. Oh ! no wonder he did not want them to watch him out of sight. The tears were falling fast as he unhitched his horses and jumped in the wagon and drove away, not once looking toward the car that held those most dear to him. What a sacrifice of feelings was this man making, and perhaps of his means also. At this moment the train started. I felt so interested in this little family I offered some courtesy to the child, and soon had the mother in conversation. She had come to California when a young girl, with her father. Had married and settled on a ranch near Santa Rosa. Her husband, she said, had lived in the state nine years, and during that time they had married and had this one little girl. "He ain't been back once," she said, "although his mother writes constantly for him to come, and now since the tickets are so cheap, he insists on my going and taking daughter." O . WILD HELIOTROPE. It was my second day at Los Angeles when some friends calling, said, "We are going in the country for the day, will you come with us ? ' "Yes, I would be so glad to go." W7e drove toward Pasadina, and when a few miles out we chose a pretty spot, cool and shady, and prepared to remain the clay. The country between Pasadina and Los Angeles is very beautiful, and the place chosen for our picnic commanded a view of the country for miles around. In the distance we could see the handsome hotel called "The Raymond," a portion of Pasadina and the City of Los Angeles. A new town was being laid out near, and the hundreds of men in their red flannel shirts, with shovel and spade glistening in the sunshine as they flew in and out the ground, made a pretty picture. I found many varieties of wild flowers here : the Mariposa lily in great abundance, and was about to choose it for my study, when a little girl in our party came running to me. "Oh ! come and see what a beautiful flower I have found. I did not pick it, for there were no others like it. Do come." I went with the child down in a ravine, and there found growing on a little mound this lovely heliotrope. It stood alone with the lavender blossoms on the very top, spread out like little plumes. I thought it so beautiful and wonderful. It was 40 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. the first wild heliotrope I had ever seen. Since then I have seen acres of them in full bloom, but they have not lost their beauty, and will always remain my favorite flower. I gave this sketch more time than any other in my collection, the flower is so finely marked and delicate in its growth. A stranger entering Los Angeles finds it difficult to under- stand what nationality claims the city. We see the little adobe houses of the Mexicans, the most of them with no windows, the door letting in the only light. Now and then a Mexican family can be seen sitting on the steps and in the doorway chatting and laughing and seemingly very happy. A little further on the Chinaman places his name above the door, and one is told in very bad English that Wang Lee and Wong Tong and many other Wangs and Tongs will do your washing cheap. We turn the corner of the street and meet the Spanish woman with her headdress of Spanish lace, and her coal-black eyes that are ready to snap if you do not give her more than half the sidewalk. And, anxious to give her all, we run against an Italian, whose tall, slender figure looks taller as we make our apologies and he bows in turn his acknowledgment. A Frenchman waits upon us at table and a German servant will tell you the city was settled by her country people. Americans you find here, some for their health, others for the lovely climate, choosing it for their winter home. Flowers blossom all winter long in the gardens, like a per- petual spring. ' - • ' •- •. "TIDY-TIPS." Does this bright stylish blossom look as if it could in any way be connected with a Chinaman ? Well, it is, for to one I am indebted for it. It was while I was at Santa Barbara a young Chinaman was the chambermaid of the house in which I was stopping. He did up my room promptly and neatly ; he always wore white and it was white, not a spot or wrinkle in his suit. While at Santa Barbara I made many sketches, finding the flowers at this place very fine. I noticed that John made numerous trips near my table while tidying up my room, and I know he was watching my brush as it washed in the colors. Spending a morning out in search of something new, and not finding it, I came home tired, and I fear a little cross. I met John near the door, but did not notice him, and went directly into my room. There I found in a glass of water on my table these handsome tidy-tips. " Oh," I exclaimed, " they are just what I have been look- ing for! Where did they come from?" They were prettily arranged and looked fresh, as if just picked. There was no card. I would go to the office and inquire. As I went out into the hall, there stood John, and smilingly asked : "You likee?" 42 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. " Oh, yes ; very much. Where did you get them ?" " Woods, pickey," and he was gone When my sketch was finished, I asked him how he liked them. He danced about, first on one foot and then on the other, and grinned. " Me likee much ; me likee big ! ' We hear much about the Chinamen, and little in their favor, but during my stay on the coast, I found them excellent servants. While in San Francisco I went with a large party of friends, protected by a detective, to the Chinese quarters. I went into the cellars, and saw the old blind woman and her cats, "the joss house ' and the opium dens, and saw the inhabitants stowed away like so many sardines. But I must not surround my pretty tidy-tips with this dense atmosphere. They came from the lovely woods where the air is pure, and the sunshine beautifies every thing it shines upon. There is no place it shines more beautifully than at Santa Barbara. My visit there was after the rainy season, and every thing in Nature was fresh and lovely. The clouds had disappeared, the small white watering-pots of heaven, each one trying to outdo the other in their sprinkle, had exhausted themselves and floated away to rest, leaving the sky clear and blue for the rest of the year. SNOW PLANT. After our arrival in the Yosemite Valley my first inquiry was : "Where shall I be likely to find the snow plant?" "On Glacier Point," answered the polite attendant. "I will go there; how soon can I leave?" He looked at me a moment before answering: "You are obliged to start in the morning. It is a day's trip, and you need three very important things : A steady head, a good horse, and an experienced guide." " I have the head, and if you will engage for me the horse and guide, I will be ready to start in the morning." An English friend and his wife joined me, and we left the next morning at seven o'clock. Our guide was one of the best in the valley, an Indian by birth. Our horses were regular trail horses, and were not to be guided, so we gave them the rein but kept a firm hold for fear of their stumbling. About half way up, and as we came to a wider trail, called the " meeting place," I ventured to look down. Never shall I forget the sight. It happened to be directly opposite the Yosemite Falls. The day before I had looked at them from the porch of my hotel, and thought them thousands of feet high ; now I looked down upon them, and could see the river on the mountain which gave them their supply. They were grand 44 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. beyond description. On comes the river until it reaches the edge of the precipice, then it becomes a raging, roaring mass, sending thousands of glistening diamonds into the beautiful veil of soft mist below. Our guide reminds us it is time to start ; we mount our horses and turn with regret from the beautiful sight. The path now becomes more narrow, the turns sharper and more difficult. On one side the mountain, on the other, and within a few inches, a chasm over two thousand feet deep. We are silent, not a word is spoken until the English lady exclaims to her husband, who is just behind her, " Oh, John! take me off or I shall drop my head." " Keep your seat, madam," shouts the guide — " in a moment we shall be on Glacier Point ; " and so we were. Suddenly the path widens, and we find ourselves on a beautiful plateau, with a forest of trees in front of us, at the edge of which stands a pretty little hotel. After a good luncheon, I start out with the guide to find the much-coveted snow plant. After riding through the wood for a mile or so, we find three fine specimens. The snow was just disappearing from the ground around them, and they looked like little monuments of red ice glistening in the sunshine. It is their own natural glisten that makes them so wondrously beau- tiful. The color and drawing of my sketch is correctly given ; but for the "glisten," think of it as a mold of red ice, this shape and color, with the bright sunshine upon it, and you have some idea of the wonderful flower. FORGET-ME-NOT. It was while we were on Glacier Point, and after a good night's rest, that we paid a visit to the Dome, a point in the mountain the highest I ever wish to visit. While our guide led the way through a forest of beautiful trees, it was difficult to imagine ourselves on the top of a mount- ain thousands of feet above the Yosemite Valley. We follow on a well-beaten path, and as we ride along see many varieties of wild flowers ; here and there the snow plant stands, dignified and alone, like a little red sentinel keeping watch over the aerial domain. With every step we are going higher and higher, but so gradually we do not notice it. Then the ride is so cool and pleasant, we are thoroughly enjoying every moment. Here and there we see lying on the ground the trunk of an immense tree that is fast going to decay, and we know from the living trees and their reputation for hard and lasting wood, that these monsters must have lain there for scores of years; and while every thing is so new and wonderful to us, it is not easy to imagine it has been just the same, with the same trees and rocks, for thousands and thousands of years. The absence of birds was noticeable. Not a note did I hear while making this trip to the Dome, and yet the place was most inviting for them. They may be there at different seasons of the year, and it may be some important meeting called them WOOD LILY. This pretty cluster of lilies I found in the woods in the northern part of Oregon, through which runs the Oregon Short Line Railroad. Long before the train stopped for dinner, I had noticed little white flowers along the road-side, but so swiftly did we go I could not tell even the shape of the blossoms. When the dinner station was reached, I had a promise from the conductor that he would not leave me ; so, while the others were taking their dinner, I went into the woods and found this pretty cluster of white lilies. They grow in little clumps, just as I have given them to you. I carefully dug up this bunch, and arrived at the car just as the passengers were ready to enter it. Making inquiries, I found I could spend the night and day at the little house used for an eating station, and I decided to remain over until the next train. I spent the afternoon in making my sketch. Having given up my dinner, I relished an early tea. Then came the twilight, -a scene I shall ever remember. The sky became a delicate pink, then gold, as the setting sun disappeared behind the forest. The voice of the birds was hushed. The little house which was to shelter me for the night was the only one for miles around, and was situated in the heart of the great woods. It was so quiet and peaceful, a rest I had not known for weeks came to me. The people who kept the place seemed 48 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. to feel the same quiet, and did not, as was often my experience, ask questions. The longest remark put to me during that beautiful twilight was : " If you think this is fine, get up at five o'clock to-morrow morning. It'll pay you. The birds will keep you company -plenty of music then." I took the advice, and, as has been said, " it paid me." As the sun cast its glorious rays above the tree-tops, it seemed as if thousands of birds sang to it their welcoming song. The fresh morning air, laden with the perfume of the woods, with its countless varieties of wild flowers, was so sweet and refreshing I wished the whole world, or the people in it, could enjoy it. From this little station to Portland was just a day's ride. The following morning found us gliding along by the side of the Columbia River, whose scenery I consider far more grand and beautiful than the scenery along the Hudson River. The banks of the Columbia are covered with beautiful trees and flowering shrubs. Waterfalls that resemble the falls in the Yosemite meet the eye as we pass along. The river is as clear as crystal, and the reflections of the mountains are so perfect one can scarcely tell which are the real. Beautiful ferns and flowers are everywhere. Just before reaching Portland and at the foot of the "Bridal Veil Falls," I saw some ferns that surpassed in beauty any I had ever seen under careful cultivation. Holding their stems up straight, they came far above my head, and were as fine and delicate as the " maiden's hair" fern. . AZALEA. It was while visiting the Mariposa grove of big trees I found the azalea: a fine shrub growing from four to six feet high, and bearing a blossom large, and rich in color, from pure white to a deep pink ; I am told the red and crimson are found, but I did not see them. This little bunch I have given you in my sketch I prized above all others I saw while in the valley. We were on our way to the grove. The horses were walking, and we were admiring the beautiful scenery, when suddenly we heard a " Hello!' and the echo answered "Hello!!" The driver stopped his horses and looked back. " Oh, it's old Rippen," and he called, "Come on, I'll wait for you." An old man came panting up the hill. " I knew you would, Jim. I thought this was your day. Load light or heavy ? " " Neither ; but room enough for you. Take the back seat." As he climbed in I saw in his hand a bunch of azaleas, the most beautiful blossoms I had ever seen. He saw me looking at them, and said, "Fine, ain't they? You'd see nothing like them in the valley. I went out of my way purpose for them. I press flowers, madam, and there ain't much in the valley but what I have in my collection. Have you noticed the trees ?' " Yes, I have, and greatly admired them." And I soon discovered that this old man possessed a knowledge of the trees 5O WILD FLOWERS OF THE 1'ACIFIC COAST. to be envied. He knew the name of every tree from the largest to the smallest shrub. The trees of California, especially in the Yosemite, have a grandeur of character hardly surpassed in any part of the world. Of the pines, the sugar pine (Pinus Lambertiana) I think the finest, often reaching three hundred feet in height, straight and o o o dignified in its bearing, with the trunk clear of limbs for twenty and often thirty feet from the base. To stand on the ground and look up at its top branches is like looking miles high, and one can imagine the sun shining on its highest leaves, while night has nearly overtaken the enormous roots that arc in places from one to three feet above the ground — come out, as it were, to look after its young branches that every year are growing further and further away from their parental care. Of the other trees seen on our trip, one I remember with special interest is the red wood (S. sempervirens). Magnificent forests of the red wood are found in the counties north of San Francisco Bay, and are limited exclusively to this one species. Another beautiful tree is the laurel (Tetranthera Califor- nica). The well-known ornamental tree, the Pinus Insignis, found near Monterey, and the cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa), of which there is a magnificent grove at Cypress Point, are valuable to the State. These are but a few of the names of her grand collection, and California has cause to feel proud of the finest collection of woods in the world. SPOTTED LILY. Every tourist who goes into the Yosemite Valley is visited soon after his arrival by a young man, who informs him of the many places of interest, how to get to them, what hour to start, and all information that it is possible to give concerning them. You can visit all, or if you are proof against persuasion, you can make your choice. I would advise you to make as first choice after the long stage ride, a visit to " Mirror Lake " and through the valley. It is easy, restful and grand. To see the perfect reflection you must be at the lake just as the sun is rising. The morning I went we arrived there, our guide said, at precisely the right moment. The lake was waveless as a silver floor, the reflection perfect. As we look we see Cloud's Rest, and the little flag is waving. Oh ! and there is " Mount Watkins," and yonder " South Dome." The sun is shining on the cathedral spires and reflected on " El Capitan." As we gaze down into the lake we wonder which is the real, and wondering we become infatuated with the scene, and gaze until the guide reminds us the time is up. As I turned from the lake I changed my position and gave another look, and saw in the water these pretty spotted lilies I have given you. The colors were as bright in the shadow as those in the sketch. O they were the only lilies growing near the lake, and I thought 52 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. them worthy of being reflected on paper, and a pretty souvenir of one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. We continued our drive through the valley, and our guide took us as far as " Inspiration Point." Words are too tame and insignificant to describe the view from this point. In front " El Capitan " stands in one magnificent perpendicular line from base to summit, three thousand feet high, standing guard over the valley broad. Opposite this mighty monster, and falling at its very feet, as if doing homage to its greatness, is the " Bridal Veil Falls." Beautiful, fleecy, swaying foam, bounding through the air nearly a thousand feet, and casting its spray like a blessing on all who pass it. Next is seen the Three Graces, with the soft purple shadows thrown like garments about them, and then the ''South Dome," and further on the summit of " Cloud's Rest ;" and now we are in the valley, and driving quietly by the side of the lovely Mercede River we pass the wigwams of some of the native Indians who act as guides and fishermen in the valley. They will catch the speckled trout when other fishermen, with their fine fishing-tackle, leave discouraged. The women pick berries and sell them at the hotels, and their bright and artistic dress adds much to the beauty of the surroundings. Our guide takes us to see the site selected for the grand hotel which is to be built ; then to our hotel where breakfast awaits us : the spray of the Yosemite Falls cooling the air, while we eat the trout caught by our guide in the early morning before our start. SALMON BLOSSOMS AND PINK GRASS. The advertised time for the steamers to leave Portland for San Francisco is midnight. Long before that hour the pas- sengers had taken possession of their state-rooms. At ten o'clock the main saloon presented a gay scene. We had three bridal parties on the boat. Each bride had her many friends, and each friend brought flowers. The odor of the flowers, the merry voices of the bright young people, and the many colored lights from the handsome chandelier thrown upon them, made a bright and pretty picture. By eleven o'clock the saloon was quiet, all had retired, and when the huge wheels turned quickly in their start, sleep had taken possession of the passengers. The early morning found us on the Columbia River. The sight that greeted us as we came out on the guards was grand and impressive. Hundreds of small salmon fishing smacks could be seen in every direction as we neared Astoria. The fisher- men had stretched enormous nets across the river, and on two occasions our steamer cut through them, much to the con- sternation of their owners, who, seeing the danger, vigorously attempted to draw them in, but were obliged to abandon them as the great steamer cut its way, regardless of the damage it was doing to the valuable property of the fishermen. Salmon fishing is the principal occupation of the male population of Astoria. A man owning his little sailboat and fishing nets is considered to have a good start in life. Immense 54 WILD FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC COAST. canning factories arc situated here, and the finest canned salmon used in this country comes from Astoria. The captain informed us our stop at Astoria would last for several hours, as the freight from this point was very heavy. The little town is built on the side of a hill, and commands a fine view of the river and surrounding country. We walked to the top of the principal street to see what once bore the dignified name of " fort," and was told that " Right here on this spot John Jacob Astor built his forf and made his first trade for furs with the Indians." On the very top of the mound grew this fine salmon blossom, and a few feet away a bed of tall pink grass, the finest I had ever seen. It waved and nodded in the warm breeze, as if inviting me to select its finest bunch to keep company with the pretty white blossoms that had been its neighbors, and from whom it was loth to part company. Our stay at Astoria was quite long enough to give me time for making my sketch, and by the time the "All aboard" was called we were ready for the good dinner that was waiting for us. How handsome the cabin looked with its two long tables, every seat filled, and all seemingly bright and happy. The brides had been ashore and gathered wild flowers, which were artistically arranged in their belts. It was a pretty sight, and to be witnessed but once on that trip. At three o'clock we crossed the bar, and I, like the majority of the passengers, took my berth, not to leave it again until the Golden Gate was reached, and San Francisco was in sight. MARIPOSA LILY. It was on our way out from the grove of big trees that I found this lovely lily,— a bed of them, in which I counted four- teen distinct markings. Every passenger in the coach got out to look at the bed. It was not large, being about four or five yards in circumference, and looked as if planted and protected by some careful hand. The flowers looked like so many but- terflies, with wings outspread ready for flight, their rich colors glistening in the sun. Mariposa county is named for this flower, as also the grove of trees we had just left. A feeling of awe comes over me when I think of those giants of the forest, standing here and there as guardians of that mighty family. With the exception of "The Brothers' they do not grow close together, and if they continue to grow as much in the next thousand years as they have in the past thousand, they have made a wise choice in securing ground room for growth. Much has been written of the " Wawona," and it is a duty, as well as pleasure, for each visitor to drive through it. Our coach, drawn by six horses, took us through the opening, and plenty of room to spare. All of the large trees show signs of fire being made on the side of them, and it is supposed the Indians had their fire-worship here. I could well understand their love and worship for these living gods. As Nature is 56 WILD FLOWERS OF TIIL PACIFIC COAST. their worship, what could be more grand in nature than these ?" The tallest big tree yet discovered measures three hundred and fifty-two feet in height. The circumference of the largest, near the ground, sometimes reaches nearly one hundred feet ; many are over fifty feet in circumference at six feet above the ground. The cones of the big trees are small, some of them only one or two inches in length, but very regular and handsome. We spent the first night out at Washburn's. The start in the morning was at four o'clock. As we reached the top of the first hill the sun was just coming up, and a more glorious sight I never expect to witness. The grand forest on one side, with its branches garlanded with golden moss, glistening with the first rays of the rising sun. On the other side the valley below us, with the sun shining through the rising mist. The spirited horses seemed to feel the inspiration ; the leaders turned the sharp angles in the most graceful manner. There were but two passengers this morning, and we both had the box seat. 1 he horses seemed to fly over the ground, up hill and down. We held our breath for fear ; yet what seemed to us its element of danger made the drive so much the more exciting. We were told the railroad would soon reach Washburn's. It will perhaps make it more comfortable for timid passengers, but for me give me the coach-and-six. I would not exchange that morning's drive for a ride in the finest palace car across the Continent. BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. BUTTERCUPS. Ranunculacice Californicus. Benth. More or less pilose ; stems erect, or nearly so, twelve to eighteen inches high ; root a cluster of somewhat thickened fibers ; radical leaves, commonly pinnately ternate, the leaflets laciniately cut into three to seven lobes or parts, which are usually linear; flowers five to ten lines in diameter; petals usually ten to fourteen, narrowly obovate ; sepals shorter than the petals, reflexed ; akenes nearly two lines long, much flattened and with sharp edges; beak short and curved; heads compact, ovate or globular (Brewer & Watson). EVENING PRIMROSE. (Enothera Californica. Watson. Hoary-pubescent and more or less villous ; stems herbaceous from a running root- stock, decumbent, about a span long ; leaves narrowly oblanceolate, acuminate, mostly petioled, sinuately toothed or irregularly pinnatifid two to four inches long; flowers large, white, becoming pinkish, axillary (Brewer & Watson). BURR-CLOVER. Orthocarpus linearilobus. Benth. A foot high, above with hirsute or somewhat hispid pubescence ; leaves with few or several long and slender divisions ; floral ones equaling the densely spicate flowers, the tips of their divisions commonly tinged with purple ; calyx-lobes much longer than the tube and equaling that of the (purplish ?) corolla ; sacs of the latter narrow, tapering gradually downward, much longer than deep ; the ovate-subulate teeth thickish and short (Brewer & Watson). 58 BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. BABY BLUE-EYES. Nemophila Mcnziesii. Hook and Arn. Leaves pinnately parted into seven to nine oblong and sometimes two to three lobed small divisions ; corolla from light blue to nearly white, sprinkled with dark dots or spots, at least toward the center or (in cultivation) the spots confluent into a brownish purple eye ; its scales narrow and wholly adherent by 'one edge, the other edge densely ciliate ; seeds oval or oblong, either even or more or less tuberculate when ripe. Low or shady grounds not uncommon. Corolla from half an inch to near an inch in diameter (Brewer & Watson). YELLOW POPPY. Eschscholtzia Californica. Cham. Usually one to one and one-half feet high and rather stout, branching; flowers large, two to four inches in diameter, usually brilliant orange in the center ; torus dilated and often broadly rimmed ; capsule two and one-half inches long, curved ; seeds two-thirds of a line in diameter, reticulated; rhaphe obscure (Brewer & Watson). LARKSPUR. Delphinium Calif or nicum. Torrey and Gray. -Stems nearly or quite smooth below ; leaves large, three to five-cleft, the divisions variously lobed ; racemes strict, close-flowered above ; pedicels and flowers densely, velvety pubescent. Dry soils near the coast. Stems stout, two or more feet high. Lower leaves three to five inches in diameter, usually deeply five-cleft, the divisions cuneate at base and laciniately toothed or lobed. Flowers commonly a light but dull blue, often more or less tinged with violet (Brewer & Watson). BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. 59 WILD-THRIFT. Mesembryanthemuni aquilaterale. Haworth. Perennial, with stout prostrate or ascending stems, and short ascending flowering branches, leaves very fleshy, opposite and clasping, linear, acutely triangular, one to three inches long, smooth ; flowers solitary, red pedicellated or nearly sessile, about one and one-half inches in diameter ; calyx tube turbinate, half an inch long or more, angled or terete ; the larger lobes often as long ; stigmas six to ten (Brewer & Watson). CLUSTER LILY. Broditea capitata. Benth. Leaves a foot long or more, two to ten lines wide, carinate, usually glaucous ; scape a foot or two high, sometimes much shorter than the leaves ; flowers few to many, nearly sessile or on pedicels one to six lines long; perianth rather broadly funnel-form, six to ten lines long, from blue to purple or white ; inner anthers nearly sessile, linear, two lines long, slightly shorter than the oblong lanceolate appendages ; the outer smaller, on short, naked filaments broadly dilated at the base ; capsule ovate, sessile, three lines long; beaked by the slender style nearly as long; seeds several in each cell, two lines long (Brewer & \Vatson). VIOLET. Viola pcdunculata. Torrey and Gray. Nearly glabrous, or somewhat puberulent, the ascending stems two to six inches high, from a slender decumbent or procumbent base ; leaves rhombic-cordate, with base usually truncate or abruptly cuneate, obtuse, one-half to one and one half inches long, often small, coarsely crenate ; stipules foliaceous., narrowly lanceolate, entire or gashed ; peduncles much exceeding the leaves ; flowers showy, deep yellow; sepals oblong-lanceo- late, obtuse or acute ; petals six to nine lines long, the upper more or less tinged with brown, on the outside, the others veined with purple, lateral petals bearded ; capsule oblong-ovate, five to six lines long, glabrous (Brewer & Watson). 6O BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. WILD VERBENA. Abronia umbellata. Lam. Perennial, prostrate, slender, viscidly puberulent, the stems often elongated, one to three feet high ; leaves nearly glabrous, ovate to narrowly oblong, one to one and one- half inches long, attenuate into a slender petiole, obtuse, the margin often somewhat sinuate ; peduncles two to six inches long; involucral bracts, small, narrowly lanceolate, two to three lines long, ten to fifteen-flowered ; perianth rose-colored, six to eight lines long, with emarginate lobes ; fruit four to five lines long, nearly glabrous, the body oblong, attenuate at each end ; the thin wings nearly as long, rounded, broadest above and often truncate, narrowing downward to the base of the fruit ; akene one and one-half lines long (Brewer & Watson). BLUE-BELLS. Pliacelia Wkitlavia. Gray. About a foot high, loosely branching, hirsute and glandular, .eaves ovate or deltoid, obtusely and incisely toothed, longer than the petiole ; raceme loose and elongating ; tube of the violet (or rarely white) corolla an inch or so long, twice or thrice the length of the rounded lobes and of the narrow calyx lobes ; stamens conspicuously exserted (Brewer & Watson). SNAP-DRAGON. Mimulus lutens. Linn. Erect or diffuse, from a fibrous annual root, and commonly perennial by short stolons, glabrous or merely puberulent ; the ordinary erect form a foot or two or even three or four feet high ; leaves ovate, oval or roundish, sometimes cordate, several-nerved from base or near it, sharply and irregularly dentate, or the lower occasionally lyrate-laciniate ; the upper sessile ; the floral becoming small and bract-like, often connate ; peduncles becoming racemose, equaling or shorter than the flower; calyx becoming ovate — inflated in fruit and the upper tooth conspicuously largest ; corolla from one and one-fourth to one and three-fourths of an inch long, yellow, often dotted within and sometimes blotched with brown-red or purple (Brewer & Watson). BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. 6 I SHOOTING STAR. Dodecatheon Meadia. Linn. Leaves varying from obovate to lanceolate, entire or more or less toothed ; scope three to fifteen inches high ; umbel two to twenty flowered. So far as we can make out only one species occurs, which extends across the continent, and on the Pacific side through fully forty degrees of latitude (viz.: from Gaudaloupe Island, Lower California, to those within Behring Straits), varying immensely and inextricably. The Pacific forms (which usually have rather shorter or blunter anthers than the Atlantic), may, as to their leading features, be mainly but loosely arranged under many varieties (Brewer & Watson). WILD PEONY. Pceonia Broivnii. Dougl. Leaves thick, one or two-ternately, compound, the leaflets ternately and pinnately lobed ; follicles three to five. San Bernardino to Vancouver and Western Utah, but rare east of the Sierra Nevada. Stems ten to eighteen inches high, smooth, striate, erect when growing, but gradually bending over until maturity, when the follicles rest on the ground. Leaves glaucous beneath, either glaucous or glabrous above. Sepals green, sometimes quite unequal in size. Petals scarcely larger than the sepals, thick and leathery, dull, dark red. Follicles very leathery, smooth, erect, one to one and one-half inches long. This plant endures a great range of station and climate, from wet to very dry soils, and from the hot plains of Southern California to near the confines of perpetual snow on the mountains (Brewer & Watson). CHINESE CIGARETTE BLOSSOM. Nicotiana glauca. Graham. Arborescent, soft-woody below, glaucous and glabrous ; leaves long-petioled, ovate and subio-ordate, entire or repand ; flowers loosely paniculate ; corolla greenish, becoming yellow, inch or two long, tubular, contracted at throat, and with erect five-crenate limb not longer than the orifice. — Bot. Mag. t. 2837. Native of Buenos Ayres, not rare in cultivation, rather widely naturalized in S. California and S. Texas. 62 BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. WILD HELIOTROPE. Phacelia tanacetifolia. Bentk. Erect, one to three feet high, roughish-hirsute or hispid; leaves nine to seventeen, divided into linear or oblong-linear once or twice pinnately-parted or cleft divisions, all sessile or nearly so; the lobes small and mostly linear-oblong ; spikes cymosely clustered, at length elongated ; the very short pedicels ascending or erect ; corolla light violet or bluish ; stamens and style usually very much exserted ; calyx-lobes linear or linear spatulate, not twice the length of the oval or oblong-oval capsule (Brewer & Watson). TIDY-TIPS. Gaillardia aristata. Pursh. Perennial, a span to a foot or more high ; lowest leaves spatulate or oblanceolate, sometimes pinnatifid, tapering into petioles ; the upper sessile and often entire ; bristles on the receptacle slender, much longer than the akenes, sometimes almost as long as the corolla ; rays ten to eighteen, an inch or more in length, yellow, sometimes tinged with purple at the very base. Plains and open ground, common through Oregon, extending to the Saskatchewan region. SNOW PLANT. Sar codes sanguined. Torrey. A stout, fleshy herb, a span or two in height, of a bright red color, more or less glandular-pubescent, thickly clothed, at least up to the raceme, with firm, fleshy scales ; the lower ones ovate and closely imbricated, the upper gradually more scattered, narrower, and passing into the linear bracts, which mostly exceed the flowers, their margins glandular-ciliate ; pedicels erect, at least the upper ones short ; corolla half an inch long, rather fleshy, glabrous. In coniferous forests, especially those of Sequoia and Abies, through the Sierra Nevada, from four thousand to nine thousand feet, shooting forth and flowering as soon as the snow melts away (Brewer & Watson). BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. 63 FORGET-ME-NOT. Mertensia Sibirica. Don. Smooth and glabrous or nearly so, a foot or more high, rather succulent, leafy; leaves pale, ovate-lanceolate or oblong, acute, two to five inches long, or the lowest larger and broader, minutely ciliate ; (lowers at first clustered ; corolla half an inch or less long, much longer than the oblong, obtuse divisions of the calyx ; the five-cleft limb about half the length of the tube ; stamens protruding out of the throat, and the capillary style early projecting beyond the lobes (Brewer & Watson). WOOD-LILY. Erythronium grandiflorum. Pursh. Corm narrow, often two inches long ; leaves not mottled, always closely approximate, oblong-lanceolate, acute or acutish and with broad and usually short petioles, three to four inches long, by one to two wide ; flowers solitary, or often in a raceme of two or six or more, yellow or cream color, with a more or less orange base ; segments lanceolate, and somewhat acuminate, strongly recurved, one to two inches long, filaments long and slen- der ; anthers three to five lines long ; ovary and capsule narrowly oblong, narrowing to a short stipe ; capsule an inch long or more (Brewer & Watson). AZALEA. Rhododendron occidentals. Gray. Shrub two to six feet high, leaves obovate-oblong, sometimes approaching lanceolate, bright green and shining above, minutely pubescent, glabrate, the margins minutely hispid- ciliate ; scales of the flower-bud somewhat canescent ; flowers appearing after the leaves; sepals distinct, oblong or oval, conspicuous ; corolla minutely viscid, pubescent outside, white (sometimes slightly rosy), with the upper lobe yellow inside ; the> narrow funnel- form tube equaling the deeply five-cleft slightly irregular limb ; the lobes ovate ; stamens and style much exserted, moderately curved; capsule oblong (Brewer & Watson). 64 BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION. SPOTTED LILY. Liliuin Columbianum. Hanson. Bulb small (one and one-half to two inches in diameter), with lanceolate, acute, closely-appressed whitish scales ; stems two to three feet high or more, slender ; leaves in whorls of five to nine or sometimes more, the upper and lower scattered, oblanceolate, two to four inches long and six to fifteen lines wide, acute, smooth ;' flowers few to many, scattered, on slender, curving, more or less divergent pedicels, three to six inches long ; segments one and one-half to two inches long and four to six lines wide, strongly revo- lute, bright reddish orange, thickly-spotted ; stamens about equaling the style, twelve to fifteen lines long, with yellow, oblong anthers, two to three lines long ; capsule short, oblong, an inch long, acutely six-angled (Brewer & Watson). SALMON-BLOSSOM AND PINK GRASS. • Rubus Nutkanus, Mocino. Stems erect or drooping, three to eight feet high ; bark green and smooth or more or less glandular-pubescent, becoming brown and shreddy ; leaves palmately and nearly equally five-lobed, cordate at base, unequally serrate, four to twelve inches broad, the lobes acute or acuminate, glabrous or somewhat tomentose, the veins beneath as well as the petioles and peduncles usually more or less hispid with gland-tipped hairs ; stipules lanceolate acuminate ; flowers rather few, white, an inch or two broad ; calyx densely tomentose, carpels very numerous, tomentose ; fruit large and pleasantly flavored (Brewer & Watson). MARIPOSA LILY. Calochortus. Pursh. Perianth deciduous, of six distinct species; segments, the three outer lanceolate, greenish and more or less sepaloid, the inner mostly broadly cuneate-obovate, usually with a conspicuous glandular pit near the base and very variously colored. This is perhaps a form of Calochortus luteus. 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